Austin Allegro Owners Handbook Maintenance Manual: Covers All Models from 1973 0856961426, 9780856961427

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DIY

SERVICE

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AUTHOR

CLASS

No.

BCOK

No.

4600012 This

book

143

must be returned on or before the date shown to the Library from which it was borrowed

LANCASHIRE COUNTY LIBRARY CORPORATION STREET, PRESTON,

PR1

8RH

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above

Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2023 with funding from Kahle/Austin Foundation

https://archive.org/details/austinallegroown0000ward

Austin Allegro Covers all models from 1973

Owners Handbook/Maintenance Manual

by P.Ward

HAYNES

Op

Acknowlegements Thanks are due to many people for their help and enthusiasm in the production of this

handbook Special thanks are extended to the manufacturers of the Allegro for the use of certain illustrations,

to Wadham Stringer (Taunton) Ltd., who supplied the car and to Castrol Limited A Handbook in the Haynes Owners Handbook Manual Series

and Maintenance

Edited by John Murphy

©

JH Haynes and Company

Limited 1974

Published by J H Haynes and Company Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset

Set in 10 point IBM Univers Medium Printed in England

ISBN

no O- 85696 - 142-6

Limited,

Contents Introduction Model Identification

Specifications, Dimensions, Weights, Capacities Road Test Data Tools

Spares and Touring Pack General Information Routine Maintenance Lubrication Other Maintenance Bodywork - Maintenance, Cleaning, Minor Repairs

Preparing your Car for the MOT Test

Buying and Selling a Used Ailegro Wiring Diagrams Fault Finding

Metric Conversion Tables Index

Fig.1. Allegro 1750 Sport Special

Fig.2. Allegro 1500 Special

Introduction This

handbook

is intended

for the Austin

Allegro owner or prospective owner who wishes

to find out more about the car and wants to keep it regularly and properly serviced with the minimum of effort so that the car gives economical trouble-free transport. He will also be shown how to examine his Allegro to check that all is well. Examination is the larger part of maintenance on the modern car, SO many parts are ‘sealed - no lubrication necessary’ that people tend to forget that these parts still wear out. It will also provide a good guide to condition if you are contemplating purchasing a secondhand Allegro. Although at the time of writing this handbook the Allegro is barely 6 months old, it is considered prudent to include a section covering the MOT test requirements which are applicable to ail cars which are at least 3 years old. Most of you reading this introduction will have had the unpleasant experience at some time of having a car that, for some reason or other, ‘simply dies’ on you or just ‘will not go’. Much of the work involved in looking after a car depends on accurate fault diagnosis in the first place. Therefore a comprehensive, methodical and progressive way of fault finding is presented in this book. Much time can be wasted in hopping from one possible source of trouble to another. It is best to say at the start — ‘This could be one of several things — let’s get the book out’. After successfully using this handbook should you wish to tackle the more complicated type of repair a most useful Owners Workshop Manual is available direct from the publishers or through all good accessory shops and booksellers.

ra

2) ° To — =

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22)

R te

°

Fig.3. Section

Model

Identification

The Austin Allegro, announced in May 1973, is the latest of the now familiar transverse engined cars being produced by BLMC. Apart from its clean, modern styling there are major innovations, such as the interconnected Hydro gas suspension system to provide a high standard of ride and handling, a front mounted radiator, an electrically operated, thermostatically controlled fan, alternator as standard fitment and Quartic steering wheel. The body structure is such that it meets the European Economic Community's regulations for frontal barrier impact and controlled rate crushing. To reduce fire risk, the 10% gallon fuel tank has been sited between the rear wheels. The Allegro has not been introduced to replace the existing transverse engined front wheel drive cars but to supplement them, and with its wide range of engines and additional fitments will obviously have tremendous appeal.

Fig.5. Allegro 1100/1300 under-the-bonnet view

Specifications, dimensions, weights, capacities Engine Capacity Number of cylinders Bore Stroke Compression ratio

Gross BHP @ rev/min Gross torque Ib ft @ rev/min Air cleaner Firing order Valve position and actuation Valve clearance (cold) Fuel system Tank capacity Fuel pump Fuel filtration Grade of fuel Location of fuel tank Carburettor type

Engine Capacity Number of cylinders Bore Stroke Compression ratio Gross BHP @ rev/min Gross torque Ib ft @ rev/min Air cleaner Firing order Valve position and actuation Valve clearance (cold)

1098 cc 4 2.54 in (64.58 mm)

3.29 in (83.73 mm) Bon

| 49 @ 5250 59.6 @ 2450 Paper element Wes 4e2 Pushrod overhead valve 0.012 in (0.31 mm) inlet and exhaust

10.5 imp. gals (47.67 litres) SU mechanical AUF 804 Filter mesh screen in fuel pump 95 octane Low between rear wheels Single SU HS4

1485 cc 4 3.0 in (76.2 mm) 3.2 in (81.28 mm) 9.0:1 72 @ 5500 79.5 @ 3250 Same Same Chain-driven overhead camshaft tnlet 0.016 to 0.018 in (0.40 to 0.46 mm) Exhaust 0.20 to 0.022 in (0.51 to 0.56 mm)

l27i5ice 4 2.78 in (70.61 mm) 3.20 in (81.28 mm) 8.8: 1 58.7 @ 5300 68.5 @ 3000. Same Same Same Same

Same Same

Same 97 octane

Same Same

1748 cc 4 3.0 in (76.2 mm) 3.77 in (95.75 mm) 87521 80 @ 5000 100 @ 2600 Same Same Same Same

10

Fig.6. Footwell and some controls

Inset top:- gear lever positions on 1100/1300 Inset bottom:- gear lever positions on 1500/1750 1 Gear change lever Handbrake Clutch pedal Brake pedal wn Accelerator pedal oO io?)

Fig.7. Facia Speedometer Main beam warning light (blye) Fuel gauge Temperature gauge

Ignition warning light (red) Direction AOhRWN-

indicator warning light (green)

Choke

(mixture control)

1100/1300

7 8 9 0) 1

Low oil pressure warning light (amber) Lighting switch Hazard werning repeater lamp (red) Hazard warning switch

Heated rear window (if fitted)

|

Specifications, Dimensions, Weights, Capacities

|

| , SSNS

| Fuel system Tank capacity Fuel tank Fuel filtration Grade of fuel Location of fue Carburettor type

Same SU mechanical AUF 809 Filter mesh screen in fuel pump 97 octane Same

Tank

Single SU HS6

Transmission | Ciutch

Type

Diaphragm spring 1100/13007 1/8 in (181 mm), 1500/1750

Diameter

7% in (197 mm)

Hydraulically by pendant pedal

Actuation

Gearbox

Type

Gear ratios Gear

1100/1300 4 speed 1500/1750 5 speed Centrally mounted (manual) and cable

Gearbox

Fj nai drive

1st

3.5275: 1

3rd

1433

4th 5th Reverse

1D00 : 1

Gear

:1

100 es ge S25 te 333774 Ss5, pee

3.544 -

Le

Gearbox

ey

nal drive

5

ist 2nd 3rd

3.702 :1 2.004 : 7 227 a

4th 5th

1.000: 0.869:

Reverse

3.467

1 1 :1

Automatic gearbox {Optional except 1100

1100/1300 1500/1750 Final drive Drive

1750 647-1 647 = 1 647-1 647 - 1 647-1 WG) GO WO 647-1 bo

synchromesh with reverse, synchromesh with reverse.

remote control by rod (auto)

Overall ratio

Final drive

1100 15.274: 1 9.611: 1 6.209 : 1 4.333: 1

1300 3.938: 3.938 : 3.938: 3.938 :

15.356:

3.938 : 7

1

Overall ratio 1

1 1 1 1

aa

1 1 a

Overall ratio

°

1500/1750 12.449 : 4 7.79224 5.333: 1 3.887 = 1 3.379 : 1 13.479 : 1

Automotive

Products Final drive ratio 3.272 3.80 :

Ail models

unless specified

Front wheel drive, ro velocity joints

open

shafts with

Lubrication

Type

Full pressure to engine bearings

Oil pump Oil pump drive Pressure relie? walwe setting

From rear of camshaft 60 Ib/sq in (4.2 kg/sq cm)

Rotor type

constant

Specifications, Dimensions, Weights, Capacities i Filtration Oil filter Capacity - engine (with filter) 1100/1300

1500/1750

Full flow Throwaway element

Refill 8% pints (4.8 litres) manual gearbox 13 pints (7.3 litres) automatic transmission and converter Refill 9.75 pints (5.54 litres) manual gearbox 16 pints (9.0 litres) automatic transmission and converter

Suspension

displacers linking Independent all round, with transverse front arms, trailing rear arms, Hydragas units suspension in ed incorporat front and rear, shock absorbing rubber flap valves Brakes Front Type

Description Diameter of disc Total swept area (2) Brake adjustment - front

Girling disc (Girling type 28 servo optional) on

1100/1300, standard on 1500/1750 Hydraulically operated by pendant pedal 9.68 in (246 mm) 178.2 sq in Self adjusting

Rear

Drum brakes Diameter of drum Width of drum Total swept area (2) Brake adjustment - rear

With leading and trailing shoes 8.0 in (203 mm) 1.5 in (38 mm) 75.6 sq in One manual adjuster per backplate

Handbrake

Floor mounted centrally, operating rear by cable

Steering Type Ratio Steering wheel type and width Number of turns lock to lock Turning circle between kerbs

Rack and pinion 13226;21 Quartic 14.76 in (375 mm) 3.5 33 ft 3 in (10.13 metres)

Body/chassis construction All steel unitary

Boot capacity Kerb weight

15 cu ft usable

1100 1300 1300 1500 1500 1750

4 fr DL 1828 Ib, 1300 2 dr DL 1803 Ib, 4 dr DL 1847 Ib, 1300 2 dr SDL 1852 Ib, 4dr SDL 1901 Ib. 2 dr SDL 1867 Ib, 1500 4dr SDL 1920 Ib Spec. 1932 Ib, 1750 2 dr Sport 1890 Ib, 4dr Sport 1946 Ib, 1750 SS 2011 Ib

Dimensions

Wheelbase

Overall height Overall width Overall length

96.14 in (244.20 cm) 55.04 in (139.80 cm) 63.52 in (161.34 cm) 151.67 in (385.25 cm)

Specifications, Dimensions, Weights, Capacities Track at front Track at rear

13

53.62 in (136.20 cm) 53.70 in (136.40 cm) 6.30 in (16.00 cm)

Ground clearance, unladen Tyres and wheels Type and size

Fixing

Tubeless radial 1100/1300 145 x 13 on 4.50C x 13 pressed steel wheel Tubeless radial 1500, 145 x 13 on 4.50c x 13 pressed steel wheel Tubeless radial 1750, 155 x 13 on 4.50c x 13 pressed steel wheel Stud

Tyre pressure

26 Ibf/in2 (1.8 kgf/cm2), front 30 Ibf/in2 (2.1 kgf/cm2), rear

Cooling system Type Fan Radiator Capacity of cooling system - 1100/1300

- 1500/1750 Thermostat

Working pressure - 1100/1300 - 1500/1750

Closed pressurized with expansion tank Electrical 4 blade, thermostatically controlled Front mounted two row ‘R’ type 7.25 pints (4.2 litres) with heater, 6.25 pints (3.5 litres) without heater 11.5 pints (6.5 litres) with heater, 10.5 pints (5.9 litres) without heater

By-pass (opens at 82°C)

13 Ibf/in2 (0.9 kgf/cm2) 15 Ibf/in2 (0.9 kgf/cm2)

Charging system Type Battery Alternator Voltage control

Ignition system Coil - 1100/1300 - 1500/1750 Sparking plugs Distributor Contact breaker gap Ignition timing (stroboscopic) at 1000 rev/min

12 volt negative earth Lucas A9 - A13 (according to requirements) Lucas 16 ACR or 17 ACR Integral with alternator

Lucas LA 12 or AC Delco 11C 12o0r AC Delco Champion N9Y, 0.025 in (0.64 mm) gap Lucas, automatic advance and retard 25D4 0.014 to 0.016 in (0.35 to 0.40 mm) 12° BTDC (1098 cc) 13° BTDC 1300/1500/ 1750

Lighting (front) Headlamps Sidelamps Flashing indicators

Sealed beam 12v 75/60w 2 lamps 12v, 6w 2 lamps 12v, 21w

Lighting (rear) Tail lights Stop lights Rear number plate light Flashing indicators

2 lamps 12v, 21w

Ancillaries Windscreen wipers

2 speed standard with ‘flick wipe’ facility

2 lamps 12v, 6w 1 lamp 12v, 6w 2 lamps 12v, 21w

14

Specifications, Dimensions, Weights, Capacities

ae

Windscreen washers

Electric

Horn - 1100/1300 - 1500/1750

Single Twin horns

Starter motor

1100 inertia, 1300 auto pre-engaged 1500 manual inertia, 1500 auto pre-engaged 1300 manual inertia 1750 manual and auto pre-engaged Incorporated in multi-purpose stalk Incorporated in column lock Ignition, main beam, oil pressure, direction indicators 2 fuses 35 amp, 2 fuses 15 amp

Headlamp flasher Ignition/starter switch Warning lights Fuses

Road test data Performance

Maximum

speed in gears (mph)

1100

Ist 25 2nd 39 3rd «61 4th 79 1300 30 = (38 auto) 48 (56 auto) 74 (70 auto) 87 = (81 auto) Road speed per 1000 engine revs in top gear 14.8 (1100) 16.4 (1300) mph

1500

1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th 1750 34 55 80 94 94 Road speed per 1000 engine revs in top gear 19.0 (1500) Acceleration In top gear mph {k ph) 20—40 (32—64) 30—50 (48-80) 40-60 (64-97)

Through gears 0—30 (0-48) 0—40 (0—64) O—50 (O—80) 0—60 (0-97) in 4th gear mph {kph) 20—40 (32-64) 30-50 (48-80) 40—60 (64-97) Through gears 0—30 (O—48) O—40 (0-64) O—50 (0-80) O0—60 (O—97)

S315 54 =78 92 90 (87 auto) (40 auto) ~~ (87 auto) = (72 auto) = (90 auto)

19.4 (1750) mph

Time in secs

Wilds) 12.5) 11CG0 ison)

(iO))) 11.5) 1300 1353}

6.0 ) 9.5) 14.5)1100 2220)

sy 0) 8.0) 12.0) 1300 17205)

(6.25 (9.5 (13.0 (21.5

auto) auto) auto) auto)

Time in secs

10.0 ) 1010) 1500) 10.5 )

4.5 7.5

10.0

85) ) 825) 1750 9.25)

(5.25 auto) J (8.0 auto) ]

3.75 (4.25 auto) J

(11.0 auto) ] 1500

9.25 (9.75 auto) ] 1750 14.5 (14.5 auto) |]

15.25 (17.5 auto) ]

6.5

(7.0

auto) }

Tools

To carry out the routine maintenance tasks in this book you will obviously need a reasonable set of tools. A really comprehensive tool kit will be expensive to purchase at one go most home mechanics have built up a kit over the years as they have tackled new and more complicated maintenance and repair work. This way the cost is spread out. Remember though, buy only the best quality (some spanners do break), keep them clean and in a safe place. The following list suggests the tools needed to undertake the work described in this book: Set of combination spanners end, open ended the other)

(ie. ring one to cover the

range 5/16 in. A.F. to 7/8 in. A.F. Set of BA spanners (open ended) to cover the range 2BA to 6BA Adjustable spanner, 10 in. parrot jaw

Spark plug spanner Pair of pliers, 6 in. Tubular spanner % in. X 9/16 in. A.F. with tommy bar Screwdriver, medium 8 in. Screwdriver, crosshead 8 in. Screwdriver, small electrical 8 in. Brake adjusting spanner Brake bleed nipple spanner Set of feeler gauges File, medium crosscut, with handle Hand cleanser (e.g. Swarfega) Overalls Clean, non-fluffy rag

It is important also to keep an adequate supply of the greases and oils listed in the ‘Lubrication’ Section of this handbook.

Spares and Touring

Pack

Before undertaking any long journey, whether in this country or abroad it is advisable to thoroughly check your car and its contents. It is better to service the car early, before the exact required time if necessary, rather than put it off until your +eturn. Breakdown services, accredited dealers and spare part availability are not always there when you need them particularly abroad and in outlying districts of Great Britain. There are two lists, one giving spares which should always be carried in the car and the other suggesting those which it is advisable to carry if undertaking a journey abroad. Some dealers

are

recommended you-use basis.

able

to

touring

supply

manufacturers

packs on an hire/buy-if-

Always carry:This handbook First aid kit and manual Spare set of keys Gallon petrol can (full) List of Austin main agents Breakdown triangle (compulsory on the continent) Torch, with red flashing dome Fan belt Finilec puncture sealer Roll of PVC insulating tape Temporary plastic windscreen Length of heavy duty (lighting) cable Spark plug (see ‘Specifications’ for type and

gap) Tyre pressure gauge Tyre pump

Jack and handle Wheelbrace Distributor rotor, contact set and condenser The tools listed on the previous page Always ensure that a spare wheel is carried, and that it is inflated to the maximum pressure which might be required (see Specifications).

Going abroad The items in the ‘Always Carry’List Tow rope

Spare set of light bulbs Full set of spark plugs Spare schrader valves Set of radiator hoses Radiator sealer (e.g. Radweld) Set of fuses Length of ignition HT cable Fire extinguisher Cylinder head gasket set Gasket cement Tin of Castrol Girling Universal Clutch and Brake Fluid 1 quart of GTX engine oil Any other tools you think you may need Adequate set of maps List of Austin main agents abroad If you should have the misfortune to break down abroad, and you are unable to get the car moving again, always produce the handbook. Non English speaking mechanics will find valuable information about your ‘strange’ car since there are many mechanical terms common to different languages.

General Information Instruments and Controls The illustrations depict the facia layout of the 1100/1300 series and the position of the controls. Other vehicles are similar although those in the 1750 range additionally have a tachometer which

has entailed fitment

of separate fuel and

temperature gauges. A brief resume of those controls which might be considered to require some explanation, is given below.

Choke (mixture control) The choke is used as an aid to cold starting. This control should be used for the shortest possible time and need only be pulled out sufficient to give satisfactory running until the engine has warmed up. The control can be locked by turning the knob slightly clockwise and released again by turning anti-clockwise. The first % in. (6 mm) approximately of movement increases the engine idling speed only without affecting mixture strength.

follows:- (1) depressing the end of the control towards the steering column operates the windscreen washers; (2) moving the switch lever anti-clockwise and releasing, gives a single wipe operation; (3) moving the switch lever clockwise to the first position operates the wipers at low speed and (4) at high speed.

Column mounted switch (right hand side). This multi-function switch operates the following:(1) left hand direction indicator by moving lever anti-clockwise, (2) right hand direction indicator by moving the lever clockwise, (3) headlamp dipper by moving the lever away from the steering wheel, (4) headlamp flasher by moving the lever towards the steering wheel and (5) horn by depressing the end of the lever towards the steering column.

Combined ignition switch and steering lock The switch is marked O,1, Il or Ill. O - steering locked. To engage the lock, turn the key fully anti-clockwise. When resistance is felt, depress the key, turn further and withdraw. | - Accessories on. Turning the key clockwise from O, unlocks the steering but permits the use of accessories such as heater blower and radio (where fitted). This switch position should be used for towing purposes. Note: It may be necessary to rotate the steering wheel slightly when engaging and disengaging

the lock. II - Ignition on. 11 - Engine start. As soon as the engine has started, the key should be released to return of its own accord to position II.

Lighting switch. This is a two position switch position 1 sidelamps, position 2 headlamps.

Hazard warning. Use of this switch operates all feur direction indicators simultaneously; there is a repeater lamp immediately below the switch.

Column mounted switch (left hand side). This is the wiper/washer control and operates as

Fig.8. Steering column

Brake

failure

warning

lamp.

lock

Where

a

dual

braking system is fitted, i.e. where the front and rear brakes operate independantly of each other, a warning light is provided. Should this lamp illuminate during normal driving, it means

that the system is faulty and should be investigated immediately. To check that the lamp is serviceable, a press-to-test switch is fitted below the lamp. Running Instructions The red ignition lamp and amber oil pressure lamp should both be on when the ignition key is at position I! without the engine running. As soon as the engine starts both lamps should extinguish; if either lamp illuminates with the engine running, the cause should be investigated

Fig.10. Interior

view of 1750 Sport

20

General Information

without delay. When running-in, do not allow the engine to labour in any gear, run at full throttle or exceed 45 mph (km/h) during the first 500 miles (800 km). After running-in, speeds should be progressively increased during the following 500 miles.

irrespective of the selector position. If you intend to drive the car in ‘D’, leave the selector lever in position; otherwise select ‘N’. If you leave the vehicle with the engine running, select ‘N’ and apply the handbrake. When parking, apply the handbrake, select ‘N’ and switch off the ignition.

Vehicle loading The maximum vehicle loading, including baggage, must not exceed 710 |b(323 kg). The maximum downward loading, from a trailer or

Automatic gear changing ; To drive forward, apply the foot brake, select ‘D’, release the brakes and depress the accelerator pedal. Gear changing is then automatic and no further movement of the selector lever necessary. N.B. When the engine is cold there may be a slight delay between selecting ‘D’ and engagement of the gear. The point at which change-up occurs is dependant upon accelerator pedal pressure. Light pressure gives a change at low speed (1), heavier pressure gives change at higher speeds (2) for improved acceleration. When pedal pressure is released the gearbox changes down as the car slows down. For overtaking, a lower gear can be selected automatically by pressing the accelerator pedal down fully. This provides maximum acceleration and is known as ‘kick-down’ (3).

caravan, is 110 Ib (50 kg) and must be included in the maximum

vehicle loading.

Recovery towing The towing eyes on the front suspension tiebar brackets should be used. Do not use the rear eyes, they are for locking purposes only. Where automatic transmission is fitted refer to the following Section. Automatic transmission With automatic transmission the driver can either use the system as fully automatic or use

the selector lever as with a normal gearbox. The lever is mounted centrally, forward of the handbrake, with positions.

a quadrant

showing

the

selector

Selector positions: ‘R' reverse gear ‘N’ neutral ‘1’ first gear ‘2’ second gear ‘3’ third gear ‘D’ automatic drive When starting, apply the handbrake, select ‘N’ and turn the ignition key. This is the only selector position which can be used for starting. It is preferable to warm up the engine for half a minute before driving, since this permits the choke to be pushed in slightly. The gearchange may otherwise be a little ‘lumpy’. When stationary always operate the foot brake before selecting gear to prevent movement of the car. The handbrake is less effective since it controls the rear wheels only. Do not select ‘3’ when starting from rest. Prolonged use of this technique may overheat the torque converter and damage both engine and transmission. ‘R’ must only be selected when at a standstill and never when moving. When stopping, release the accelerator and apply the brakes

Manual gear changing For manually operated gear changing, first apply the foot brake, select ‘1’ then release the brakes and depress the accelerator. To change up, move the selector lever to ‘2’, ‘3’ and ‘D’ in turn, as the speed increases; do not release the accelerator pedal between changes. To change down select ‘3’, ‘2’ and ‘1’ as

required. Never change down in third or second gear at speeds above 60 mph (96 km/h) and 45

mph (72 km/h) respectively.

Special driving conditions When starting in very cold weather drive the car in second gear (manual selection) for a few hundred yards to allow the transmission fluid to warm

up quickly.

If extra engine braking is required when ascending steep hills, select ‘2’. (Do NOT select ‘1’, there is a free wheel on this gear). In very slippery conditions it may be necessary to rock the car backward and forwards by alterna tely selecting ‘1’ and ‘R’ until forward traction is obtained, then selecting ‘2’ and ‘3’ to avoid

Wheelspin,

General Information

21

Towing Select ‘D’ when towing a caravan or trailer under normal driving conditions. Select ‘2’ on downhill gradients where additional engine

protrudes from the radiator grille, to the left. Push the safety catch handle upwards, lift the bonnet and support it with the stay.

braking is required.

Heating and ventilating The ventilation system is operated by ram air effect, with a two position switch operated blower to provide boost, or airflow when the car is travelling at low speed. The air distribution lever can be used to direct air to the windscreen and facia or generally to the car interior. The temperature control lever is used to modulate the airflow temperature from cold (blue sector) to hot (red sector). To shut off all airflow, both levers must be set to OFF. The facia vents are opened by rotating the lever. The control knob is used to direct air horizontally or vertically. Where a heated rear window is fitted, great

Recovery towing Provided that the transmission is not at fault, the car may be towed with ‘N’ selected. However, the engine/transmission oil must be at

the ‘MAX’ level on the dipstick and the car should not be towed for long distances or at speeds above 20 mph (30 km/h). Do not attempt to tow start. If the transmission is faulty, tow with the front wheels lifted. Bonnet catch

To release the catch either pull the knob beneath the facia or move the lever which

Fig.11. Hydraulic suspension system layout

General Information

ZZ

care must be exercised to prevent any form of abrasion on the interior surface. This includes sticking things on and scraping things off, inadvertent scratching or the use of abrasive cleaners.

Anti-freeze solution Prior to adding anti-freeze solution to the cooling system, it should be drained and flushed then filled the correct strength water/ anti-freeze mix as listed below. The procedure for draining, flushing and refilling is given under ‘Other Maintenance’. Solution

Quantity of anti-freeze

Commences to freeze

Frozen solid

%

Pts

Litres

[Ge

SF

So,

oF

25 Set/3) 50

1% 24 3%

1.0 Fis 2.0

—13 —19 —36

9 — 2 —33

—26 —36 —48

—15 —33 —53

Adjustable seats Fore and aft adjustment is effected by moving the lever (1) backwards, then sliding the seat to the desired position. On two door models check that the locking pin (2) has engaged, i.e. that the end of the pin (3) is not above the surface of the guide (4). To adjust the back-rest of reclining seats, ease the body forward, lift the locking handle (5), ease the seat to the required position then press the locking handle down. On two door models the seat back-rest is folded forward by depressing the lever (6). When returning the seat to its normal position, the locking catch (7) engages with the retaining bar (8). Seat belts These are of the conventional lap/diagonal type, being locked by snapping the tongue in a slot in the centre console just behind the handbrake. A push button immediately in front of the slot is used for releasing. Tyres and Wheels Apart from regular inspection and inflation, any attention to wheels and tyres should be left to your Austin Dealer. This includes items such as uneven tyre replacement,

wear, tyre or valve assembly puncture repair and wheel

balancing: When wheels have been balanced they must remain on the same axle in the same position.

Fig.14. Towing eye (1)

23

Fig.15. Selector lever on automatic transmission

Fig.16. Accelerator pedal positions

systems

Fig. 17. Bonnet fittings 1 2

Bonnet catch Internal release knob

3. 4

Release lever Safety catch handle

5 6

Safety catch Support stay

HTT

Fig. 18 Heating and ventilation control levers 1

2 speed blower switch Air distributor lever

2 3

Windscreen/facia position marker

5

Car interior position marker Temperature control lever

4

7 8

Support stay clip Support bracket

General Information 24 i Jacking-up and changing a wheel Before jacking up for wheel changing, initially remove the hub cover and slacken the wheel nuts slightly with the car on the ground. It is very important that only the jack supplied with the car is used and that it is correctly located. The location points are:- (a) Rear - with the jack head (1) beneath the channel section at the rear of the body sill and its flange (2) adjacent to the outer body flange (3) immediately ahead of the locating tab. Do NOT use the bracket (5) (b) Front - locate the jack head beneath the jacking point (6), ensuring that the peg locates in the hole (7). When a wheel is refitted, the nuts should be initially pinched up, then finally tightened after lowering the car to the ground. The spare wheel is located in the rear luggage

n

SS

>)

~

I] _

compartment.

Vehicle Identification Whenever spare parts or accessories are required it is important, to be able to quote information to the dealer. The information

which he is likely to need Is:1 Engine number, stamped on a _ plate immediately below No. 1 spark plug. 2 Transmission casing assembly number, stamped

on

motor. 3 Commission number,

the

casing

number,

below

car number

1

Open/close lever Direction lever

the bonnet locking platform. Only genuine British Leyland or spares and accessories should be used.

Fig. 20 Seat adjustments

Fig. 21 Seat belts

Retraction/locking reel Tongue Centre console Release button Adjustment clip

starter

and body

stamped on three separate plates on

Fig. 19 Air direction control

2

the

Unipart

Routine

Maintenance

Introduction No matter how well you look after your Allegro, various components inevitably are going to wear out and need replacement, but by carrying out the regular maintenance tasks listed you will be able to get above average mileage from your car before replacement becomes a necessity. A great many of the main-

Plan ahead Before starting work always read through what work is involved and make sure you have all the parts and lubricants that will be required. Most do-it-yourself motorists do their work during the evenings or weekends when the parts department of garages are closed. Nothing is More annoying than starting a job and being

tenance

unable to complete it due to lack of spares.

tasks are purely a visual examination

of

components, many are vital to the roadworthiness of the car and safety of its occupants. The whole business of routine maintenance may

become

a

bit

tedious

neglect anything; your party’s life may depend

at times

but

do

not

life or some innocent on it and your car will

appreciate the care you bestow on it by giving you as trouble-free transport as possible. Safety Accidents will happen but they can often be prevented. A little thought can save a considerable amount of heartbreak as well as inconvenience. Read through the following points and always put them into practice: 1 Do not run the engine of the car in the garage with the garage doors closed. 2 Do not work in a garage pit with the engine running. 3 Do not wear a tie or have long sleeves when working on the engine with it running. They can easily get caught in the fan blades or fan belt, (this applies to hair - tie it back). 4 When jacking up the front or rear of the car always chock the remaining two wheels. Where possible also apply the handbrake. 5 After jacking up, but before working underneath, rock the car slightly to ensure that it does not move. 6 Immediately wipe up any grease or oil spilled on the floor. 7 ‘f you are working under the car for any length of time, ask someone to check every half an hour to make sure all is well. Time passes slowly if you are trapped underneath. 8 Always use the correct size of spanner, otherwise it might fly off causing injury to yourself or damage to the car. 9 Do not allow battery acid to come into contact with the skin or clothes. Should this occur immediately wash off with a copious supply of cold water. 10Do not rush a job. before starting work make sure you have ample time to finish.

The

following

list

is a

summary

of the

Routine Maintenance requirements. The procedure and any special instructions are given in

the subsequent section. Maintenance summary

Weekly or before a long journey Check the engine/transmission unit oil level. Check battery electrolyte level. Check radiator coolant level. Check windscreen wipers and washers. Check tyre pressures. OORWN-=— Check tightness of wheel nuts.

2 At 3,000 mile (5000 km) or 3 monthly intervals, in addition to those items listed previously. 1 Check drive belt tension. 2 Check clutch master cylinder fluid level. 3 Check for oil leaks from = steering rack assembly. 4 Check for leakage from the interconnecting pipes of the Hydragas suspension system. 5 Check joints and backlash of the steering mechanism. 6 Check brake master cylinder fluid level. 7 Check condition of brake system hydraulic Pipes. 8 Check operation of handbrake. 9 Check brake adjustment. 10 Check function of all instruments and controls. 11 Check condition of clutch and fuel pipes. 12 Check exhaust system for leaks and security. 13 Check condition of tyres. 14 Road test the vehicle.

3 At 6,000

mile

(10000

km) or 6 monthly

intervals, in addition to those items previously

listed. 1 Change engine/ transmission unit renew filter element. 2 Top up carburettor piston damper.

oil and

26

Fig.22. Main lubrication points on 1100/1300 1

Engine/synchromesh transmission unit

1a Engine/automatic transmission unit 2 Sump drain plug 3 Oil filter, synchromesh transmission unit 3a Oil filter, automatic transmission unit

Carburettor

Accelerator pedal fulcrum Distrubutor Swivel hub ball joints Handbrake cable ends aOaryNonf

N.B. On the 1500 and 1750 the engine lubrication points differ slightly

Routine Maintenance ee eee a seer, 3 Check carburettor settings. 4 Examine cooling system for leaks. 5 Lubricate accelerator linkage and _ pedal fulcrum, 6 Clean spark plugs. 7 Clean and adjust distributor contact points. 8 Lubricate distributor. 9 Check ignition timing. 10 Check clearance at clutch lever return stop. 11 Check front wheel alignment. 12 Lubricate all grease nipples. 13 Lubricate exposed handbrake linkage and cables. 14 Check specific gravity of battery electrolyte. 15 Grease battery connections. 16 Lubricate hinges and door locks. 17 Check condition and security of seats and seat belts. 18Check that door and body drain holes are clear. 19 Road test the vehicle. 4 At 12000 mile (20000 km) or 12 monthly intervals, in addition to those items listed previously, (except items 2.9 and 3.6). 1 Fit new air cleaner element. 2 Fit new oil filler cup and filter assembly. 3 Check valve rocker clearances (where applicable). 4 Fit new spark plugs. 5 Inspect brake linings and pads for wear. Dust out drums. 6 Adjust rear wheel bearing end-float. 7 Renew brake servo filter (at 36000 miles only).

Se

27

8 Road test the vehicle. Procedure Note: Before removing any filler/level plugs or removing any drain plugs, the surrounding area should be wiped clean of any dirt etc. Prior to draining the engine/transmission unit, the engine should be warmed up by running for a few minutes to allow the oil to thin a little. 1 Weekly or before a long journey 1 Check the engine oil level and top up as necessary to the MAX marking on the dipstick. Where automatic transmission is fitted, run the engine for 1 to 2 minutes, switch off and wait for 1 further minute then check the level and top up as necessary using Castrol GTX. The dipstick is either to the left or right of the distributor, and the oil filter on top of the tappet cover. 2 Check the battery electrolyte level either by looking through the translucent battery case or by lifting the top vent cover and tipping to one side. If the level is below the tops of the plates, add distilled water to the filling trough until the filling tubes are full and overflowing slightly into the trough. Finally replace the vent cover. 3 To check the radiator coolant level examine the expansion tank. Do not remove the cap if the engine is at normal running temperature. The cap may be removed however if the system is hot but below operating temperature by using a cloth to protect the hand against steam. In this case the cap should be turned anti-

Fig.23. Jacking points

Routine Maintenance 28 a clockwise slowly until the pressure has fallen. topping up the system, the coolant When should be maintained at the level line in the expansion tank. Should the level have fallen drastically, examine the system for leaks and rectify as necessary. If the level has fallen below the level of the expansion tank hose, it may be necessary to top up the system via the filling orifice. The component parts of the system are shown in Figs. 57,58 and 76. 4 Check the water level in the windscreen washer reservoir and top up as necessary. The reservoir is mounted in the engine compartment, right hand side at the rear when viewed from the front of the car. Finally check that both washers, and wipers operate satisfactorily. 5 Check the tyre pressures and adjust as necessary, to the valves given in the Specifications section. This should be done when the tyres are cold and not after a long run when they may be quite hot. Always keep the spare tyre inflated to the highest recommended pressure, then adjust when it is to be used. 6 Check the tightness of wheel nuts. The correct valve is a torque of 46 lb f ft (63 Nm. 6.4 kg f m), but if a torque spanner is not available they should be tightened firmly. There is no need to stand on the wheelbrace!

Fig.24. Spare wheel stowage oe ; Bee

Be

pues

2 At 3000 miles (5000 km) or 3 monthly intervals, in addition to those items listed previously. 1 The drive belt, when correctly tensioned, should have % in (13 mm) of deflection along its longest run. To adjust, slacken the 3 alternator securing bolts and the adjustment link nut. Move the alternator as required, tightenthe nuts and bolts then recheck tension. 2 Check the clutch master cylinder fluid level, where applicable, and top up as necessary to the bottom of the filler neck using Castrol

Girling Brake Fluid. The reservoir is at the rear of the engine compartment near the brake master cylinder, but identifiable by its smaller plastic cap. i r ring rack assembly for signs 3 Examineine th the steering of leakage or damage to the rubber gaiters. Any rectification action required should be carried out by reference to the Haynes Owner’s Work-

shop Manual for the Austin Allegro or by your Austin Dealer. 4 Visually check the interconnecting pipes of the Hydragas suspension system for any signs of leaking or corrosion. Any rectification should be left to your Austin dealer.

Fig.25. Drive belt adjustment ma oS curing bolts yin ontt Bade

2

Driveiend bracket

Fig.26. Clutch master cylinder reservoir

1

Filler cap (vent hole arrowed)

Fig.28. Tandem

1

master cylinder reservoir

Division baffle (vent hole arrowed)

Fig.27. Single master cylinder reservoir

1

Translucent reservoir (vent hole arrowed)

Fig.29. Front disc brake

1

Brake

pads

30

Routine Maintenance

EEE Should the fluid be lost from the system it is permissible for the car to be driven to a garage for repair, provided that speeds of 30 mph (approximately) are not exceeded and that the road surfaces are good. 5 Check the steering linkage for signs of backlash and wear. Check that all nuts are secure and that the rubber gaiters on the hub end of the drive shafts are undamaged. Again, rectification is beyond the scope of this handbook and should therefore be referred to an Austin dealer or carried out by reference to the Owner's Workshop Manual. 6 Check the fluid level in the brake master cylinder reservoir and top up as necessary using Castrol Girling brake fluid. If the level has fallen drastically, examine the system for signs of leakage, the most likely place being at the wheel cylinders. If a leak is found it should be rectified without delay. 7 Visually check the brake system pipes and unions for signs of leaking, chafing and corrosion. 8 The handbrake is automatically adjusted with the rear brake shoes and should require no attention. If the handbrake action is not satisfactory, the matter should be referred to your Austin dealer. 9 If the brakes require adjustment, as indicated by excessive pedal travel, the car should be jacked up with the front wheels chocked, hand brake released, then the single adjuster at the top of each rear wheel backplate turned clockwise until the wheel is locked. The adjuster is then turned back until the wheel is free to rotate, and the process repeated on the other wheel. The self adjusting front disc brake pads should now be examined, the minimum thickness of material permissible

Fig.30. Sump drain plug

being 1/16 in (1.6 mm). Any replacement should be carried out by your Austin dealer, since special tooling is required. 10 Check that all instruments and controls are operating correctly. This will need to be carried out in conjunction with paragraph 2.14 (Road

test). 11 Visually check the hydraulic clutch pipes (where fitted) and the fuel system pipes for

Fig.31. Oil filter, disposable cartridge type

signs of leaking, chafing and corrosion.

1 Cartridge

12 Inspect the exhaust system for signs of damage or leakage, and security of attachment points. A temporary repair to a silencer can be effected by the use of proprietory sealers, but the defective parts should be replaced as soon

; pace Head

Routine Maintenance

31

as possible.

13To check the tyre condition, raise each road wheel in turn and carefully inspect for bulges and cuts on the walls and tread. Remove any sharp stones which are lodged in the tread before they work their way through the canvas and cause a puncture. 14When the above tasks are completed, road test the car to ensure everthing is working to your satisfaction. The source of any little squeaks and rattles should be traced since they may be an indication of impending troubles. Check the operation of the automatic transmission (where applicable) over the full speed range to ensure that it responds to the accelerator pedal pressure, and, on 1500 and 1750 cc models, check that the parking panel engages and disengages satisfactorily.

3 At 6000

miles

(10000

km)

or 6 monthly

intervals, in addition to those listed Previously. 1 To drain the engine/transmission oil, remove

the drain plug and allow the oil to drain into a container. Where a disposable cartridge filter is fitted, it should be unscrewed and discarded taking care not to spill the oil on removal. Renew the seal, wetting with a little engine oil,

fit it in the groove

in the new cartridge, then replace the cartridge hand tight only. Where a renewable element fiiter is fitted, unscrew the central retaining bolt and remove the complete filter assembly. Discard the filter element then swill the other component parts in petrol and allow to air-dry. Renew the seal in the filter head then reassemble a new element. Do not Overtighten the retaining bolt when re-fitting to the engine. Having replaced the filter, refit the sump drain plug and fill the system with Castrol GTX up to the MAX level on the dipstick. Run the engine for a minute or so ( do not race the engine until the oil pressure warning lamp extinguishes) then top up again. Where autotransmission matic sequence in Section

is fitted, refer to the 1.1 of this Chapter before

checking the oil level. 2 Unscrew the top cap from the carburettor suction chamber and withdraw it complete with plunger. Add a little engine oil to bring the level

up to % in (13 mm) above the top of the hollow piston rod, then replace the cap. Check that the piston is free to move, by raising the piston lifting pin then listening for a metallic Click when the piston falls once the lifting pin has been released.

Fig.32. Oil filter, renewable element type (1100/1300) automatic shown) 1 2

Retaining bolt Filter element

3

Seals (2)

4

Sealing ring

3 When checking carburettor settings, commence by checking that the choke control knob returns fully and that the cable has 1/16 in (2 mm) free play before it pulls on the lever when the knob is pulled out. Run the engine for a while until it is thoroughly warmed up then adjust the idling speed by means of the throttle adjusting screw until a satisfactory tick-over is obtained. !f the engine will not run smoothly, increase the tick-over speed a little and adjust the mixture setting by turning the jet adjusting nut upwards to weaken the mixture or downwards to richen. Rev the engine a little between each adjustment (which should be no more than one flat of the adjusting nut at a time) then, when the fastest steady engine speed is obtained, re-adjust the throttle Opening screw for tick over. To check the fast idling speed, pull out the choke control and lock it in the position where the linkage is just about to move the jet. Screw in the fast idling screw for a satisfactory fast tickover, bearing in mind that final adjustment may have to be made when the engine is just warming up. 4 Examine the water pipes, engine unit and radiator for signs of leakage. Check all hoses for signs of deterioration and renew as necessary. 5 Lubricate the accelerator contro! linkage and pedal fulcrum by applying two or three drops

32 a

Routine Maintenance

a

of engine oil to all moving

points. Also apply

two or three drops to all the linkage and pivot points on the carburettor. 6 Before removing a spark plug, clean dust or dirt from around its location in the cylinder

head. Disconnect the HT lead and with a plug spanner remove the spark plug taking care not to damage the insulator. Examine the end of the spark plug and it will probably be noticed that there will be considerable deposits of carbon on the threaded body and the central electrode which will reduce the efficiency of the plug. Carefully remove the carbon with a wire brush and trim the electrodes with emery cloth or a very fine file. Reset the points to the recommended gap (see Specifications) by bending the side electrode, taking the greatest care not to touch the centre electrode as any pressure at the front can damage the internal part of the insulator. Recheck the gap again using feeler gauges. If the spark plug is in a very dirty condition it is preferable to have the cleaning carried out on a special sand blasting machine as used by most garages. Cleaning is done under pressure and the interior of the plug can be thoroughly cleaned which is not possible when using a wire brush. A spark plug which is very oily can be cleaned in petrol but do not soak for too long otherwise the petrol will soak into the insulator and can cause internal short circuiting. Whenever possible fit new plug washers as these keep the plug joint gas tight. The initial inspection of the spark plug can

——

tell the owner a considerable amount about the condition of his engine. The ideal plug deposits should be grey in colour with a light carbon

deposit and an insulator just tinged with brown. White electrodes indicate too weak a carburettor setting and heavy oil deposits fouling the electrodes indicate surplus lubricant in the cylinder. Replace the plug making sure the washer is in position and screw the plug home lightly and accurately by hand to avoid stripping the thread using the plug spanner only for the final

turn. DO NOT overtighten. 7 Toremove the distributor contacts for cleaning, take off the distributor cap and rotor arm. To remove the contacts, unscrew the terminal nut and remove it together with the top insulating bush and leads. Take out the securing screws

and

washers,

then

lift off the contact

Sel.

To reface the points, rub their faces on a fine carborundum stone, pointed file or fine emery paper. It is important that the faces are rubbed flat and parallel to each other so that there

will

be

complete

face

to

face

contact

when the points are closed. One of the points will be pitted and the other will have a deposit on it. It is necessary to remove completely the built up deposits but not so necessary to rub the pitted point right down to the stage where all the pitting has disappeared, though obviously if this is done it will prolong the time before the operation of refacing the points has to be

fo

VA AN “Al

Fig.33. Carburettor lubrication (oil level arrowed)

Fig.34. Accelerator pedal lubrication points

Cleaning deposits from trodes and surrounding

elecarea

Checking plug gap with feeler gauges

Altering the plug gap. Note use of correct tool.

using a fine wire brush.

Spark plug maintenance

White

deposits and

damaged

Broken

porcelain

insulation

Electrodes burnt away due to

porcelain insulation indicating overheating

due to’ bent central electrode

Excessive

Mild white deposits and elec-

Plug in sound condition

trode burnt indicating weak a fuel mixture

light greyish

black

deposits

caused by over-rich mixture or wrong heat value

too

Spark plug electrode conditions

wrong

heat value or chronic pre-ignition (pinking)

brown

with

deposits

34

Routine Maintenance

repeated. Apply a very light film of Castrol LM Grease to the pivot post, refit the contacts then rotate the engine until the contact breaker arm is on the peak of one of the four cam lobes. A.0015 in (0.381 mm) feeler gauge should just fit between the points. With the contact plate securing screw loose, adjust the contact gap by inserting a screwdriver in the notched hole at the end of the plate. Turning clockwise decreases the gap and turning anti-clockwise increases the gap. With the gap correctly set tighten the contact plate securing screw and check the gap again. 8 Apply a few drops of engine oil around the screw in the distributor cam spindle and through the hole in the middle of the contact breaker plate. Very lightly smear the cam surface with Castrol LM Grease, then wipe the inside of the distributor

cap with a dry cloth making sure that the centre carbon brush is spring loaded and free to move. Finally refit the rotor and cover. 9 It is the manufacturer’s recommendation that ignition timing is checked whenever contacts

are cleaned, reset or renewed. This can

only be done using electronic equipment and must therefore be left to your Austin dealer. 10 It is important to check that adequate clearance

at

the

clutch

lever

return

stop

exists,

otherwise clutch slip may occur as wear takes place. To check this clearance, pull the operating lever outwards and check for 0.020 in (0.5 mm) gap between the lever and the adjustment bolt (A). Correct as necessary by slackening the locknut, moving the adjustment bolt then re-tightening again when the correct gap is obtained. 111t is not possible to check front wheel alignment without special gauges and, if it should be necessary, the work should be carried out by your Austin dealer. Provided that tyre wear is satisfactory it can be assumed that all is in order. 12 There are two grease nipples on each front swivel hub which should each be given three or four strokes of a grease gun filled with Castrol LM grease. This should be carried out with the car jacked up to ensure full penetration. 13 Lubricate the exposed ends of the handbrake cables by smearing with Castrol LM grease. A few drops of engine oil should be applied to the clevis pin and fork. 141f a hydrometer is available check the

specific gravity in each cell of the battery. A fully charged battery in good condition should give a reading of approximately 1.280 and the variation from cell to cell should be no greater than 0.025. if a hydrometer is not available, the work should be carried out by your Austin dealer. 15Smear a little petroleum jelly on the terminals of the battery. If there is any sign of corrosion on the terminals they should be scraped clean before the petroleum jelly is applied. 16 Apply a small amount of Castro! Everyman Oil to the keyholes, pushbuttons and lock mechanism holes. Smear a little grease on the moving surfaces of the bonnet release mechanism. Apply a few drops of engine oil to door hinges and bonnet release mechanism pivot points. 17 Thoroughly examine the seat belt attachment

points

for

security

and

any

signs

of

corrosion. Examine the webbing of the straps for signs of fraying, particularly at the fixing points and adjusters. Whenever there is fraying or where the belts have had to withstand the strain of severe

inpact they should

be replaced.

Remember that it could mean the difference between life and death for you. Check that the seats and adjustment slides are fully serviceable. 18 Using a piece of stiff wire, make sure that the drain holes in the bodywork and doors are free from mud or underseal. Blocked drainholes can be a cause of rust getting a foothold. 19 Finally, road test the car as previously (see paragraph 2.14).

4 At 12000

mile

intervals,

addition

in

(20000

km) or 12 monthly

to

those items listed previously. (Except items 2.9 and 3.6). 1 To replace the air cleaner element on 1100 and 1300 cc cars, remove the two wing head screws from the top cover, then prise off using a screwdriver in the slots. Discard the old element and clean the container in petrol,

allowing

it to air dry. Check

that the internal

O-ring and air cleaner/carburettor seal are in good condition, then re-assemble ensuring that the arrow on the cover is aligned with the

location lug of the container.* On centre

1500 and 1750 cc models, bolt and washers then

assembly

from

the

carburettor.

unscrew remove

the the

Remove

the

base, discard the old element then wash the base and cover in petrol. Allow parts to air dry

Fig.36. Combined spark plug gauge and setting tool

Fig.37. Interior of distributor with rotor removed 1 2

Cap retaining clips Cap

3 4

Rotor arm Contacts

)

PG Fig.38. Breakdown

Contact points Pivot post

Cam Lubrication hole OBWN— Cam spindle lubrication point

Fig.39. Adjusting the clutch - 1100/1300 A = Correct clearance of 0.020" (0.5 mm)

of contact assembly 6

Contact plate securing screw

7

Notched hole

8

Moving contact retaining nut

9

Insulating bush

36

Routine Maintenance

then reassemble with a new element and fit to the carburettor making sure that the seal on the base is correctly positioned. Align the arrow with the summer or winter marking as appro-

priate.* “For winter

driving

conditions,

the

air

intake should be placed close to the exhaust manifold to prevent the carburettor from icing up. On 1100 and 1300 cc models the air intake should be positioned before refitment of the air cleaner. On 1500 and 1750 cc models only the centre bolt need be loosened. For summer driving the intake should be moved away from the manifold. 2 The oil filler cap and filter assembly must be renewed as a complete item. It cannot be cleaned. 3 The checking and adjustment of valve rocker clearances is applicable to 1100 and 1300 cc models only and should be carried out as follows with the engine cold:Initially unscrew the rocker cover retaining nuts and remove the cover. Turn the engine until number 8 valve is fully open then check the gap between the rocker and valve stem on valve number 1 using a 0,012 in feeler gauge. The feeler should be a sliding fit. If adjustment is required, slacken the locknut on the pushrod end of the rocker and adjust the screw as required. When the correct gap is obtained, tighten the locknut whilst using the screwdriver to prevent the screw from turning. Finally check the adjustment once more then proceed with the remaining valves as shown below. Valve fully open No. 8 No. 6 No. 4 No, 7 No. 1 No.3 No.5 No. 2

Check gap at No. 1 No. 3 No.5 No. 2 No. 8 No. 6 No. 4 No. 7

To turn the crankshaft on models with automatic transmission, remove the grommet on top of the torque convertor housing, insert a screw-

driver and

turn the convertor starter ring gear.

Finally replace the rocker cover, ensuring that the gasket is serviceable and correctly positioned.

4 Remove the old spark plugs from the engine and discard. Prior to fitting the new set, check that they are the correct type (Champion

Fig.40. Swivel hub grease points

N-9Y) then set the gaps to 0.025 in (0.64 mm). Do not overtighten when fitting. Finaliy wipe the insulator with a clean rag and refit the leads. 5 Initially examine the front disc brakes and arrange

for replacement

if necessary

(see para-

graph 2.9). To impact the rear brakes, jack up the car and remove the road whee! as detailed in the General Information section. Slacken the brake adjuster completely then withdraw the hub grease cap. Remove the split pin, nut retainer and hub nut then withdraw the drum assembly complete with bearings and splined washer. (Note - if the inner bearing does not come away when the hub is withdrawn, the oil seal will require renewal once the bearing has been withdrawn separately). Now clean out the drum removing all dust, and examine the wheel cylinder for signs of oil leakage. Any leakage should be rectified immediately by your Austin dealer or by reference to the Haynes Owner's Workshop Manual: Examine

the brake linings, and if worn down

to

1/16 in (1.6 mm) for bonded linings or almost to the rivet heads, renew them. Again this

exercise is beyond the scope of a handbook of this type. All should now be ready for reassembly, so pack the bearings with the specified grease. Pack the space between the inner bearing and the oil seal also with grease then refit the hub and drum assembly. Refer to the

following section for the method of ad justment. 6 To adjust the rear wheel bearings the hub retainer and nut will have to be removed (see paragraph 4.5 but do not alter the brake ad justment or remove the drum). With the hub nut initially loose, spin the hub then lightly tighten

37

Fig.41. Rear brake adjuster - arrowed 1 2

Exposed end of cable Clevis pin and fork

Fig.42. Bodywork

drainage points

38

Fig.43. Air cleaner (1100/1300 models) A B

Fig.44. Air cleaner (1100/1300 models) exploded view

Winter setting Summer setting

Wing head screws Air

inlet pipe positioning clip

Cover Slots Element Container

‘O' ring OryANOhWN— Air cleaner/carburettor

Fig.46. Summer/Winter

Fig.45. Air cleaner

air intake positions

1

(1500/1750 models)

a 3

Centre Base Cover

bolt

(1500/1750

models) 4

5

seal

exploded

E lement S ealing ring

view

Oil filler cap and filter assembly (1100/1300 models)

Fig.48. Adjusting valve rocker clearances

(1100/1300

models)

Fig.49. Brake servo filter details 1

Reservoir arrowed)

2

Dust cover

(vent hole

3 4

Endcap Fiiter installed

5

Filter showing diagonal cut

40

Routine Maintenance

nnn

the nut again. If a torque spanner is available, the correct setting is 5 lb f ft. Stop the hub

SEES ESERIES

procedure on the other side of the car. 7 With cars which have a brake servo

fitted,

re-

the filter should be changed every 36000 miles.

tighten finger tight only. Fit the nut retainer such that the split pin hole is half covered by one of the arms of the retainer. Now slacken the nut and retainer to just fully uncover the split pin hole then insert a new pin, bending the legs around the retainer circumferentially. Adjust brakes as detailed in paragraph 2.9 and finally lower the car to the ground. Repeat the

To do this pull back the dust cover from where the brake pedal push rod enters the servo and

spinning

and

slacken

the

hub

nut

then

withdraw the end cap. Pull out the filter but before fitting the new one, make a diagonal cut to the centre hole. Replacement is then in the reverse order to removal. 8 Finally, road test the vehicle as previously (see paragraph 2.14).

Fig.50. Order of bleeding brakes (single reservoir master cylinder)

Fig.51. Order of bleeding brakes (tandem system)

Other Maintenance The items listed in this section are not part of the regular maintenance programme. They are, however, just as important and it is quite likely that the various points will require some attention during the period that you own the

car. Brake bleeding It is manufacturer’s recommendation that the brake fluid is compeletely changed every 18

months

or 18000

miles (30000 km). It is also

their recormmendation that hydraulic seals are renewed and flexible pipes checked every 3 years or 36000 miles (60000 km). Before bleed-

ing the brakes it is well worthwhile discussing the

advisability of one of these operations before commencing the bleeding operation. During the bleeding process, absolute cleanliness is required to prevent dirt entering the system. Initially top up the master cylinder with an approved fluid, then lock the rear brake

shoes hard against the drums by means of the

Fig.52.

1 2 3

Headlamp adjustment

Vertical adjustment screw Horizontal adjustment screw Access hole in grille for right hand headlamp

adjusters. Referring to the diagrams, attach a bleeder tube to the bieed nipple at point A

Fig.53. Headiamp remova! (inset A: renewable bulb type) =

Grille securing screws - positions arrowed

Grille Lamp rim retaining screws Lamp rim unit

Lamp OBRWN

Threepin connector

Rubber pads (4) Base plate Retaining clip Lugs = — -O0MNND Bulb

42

Other Maintenance

(single master cylinder systems) or E (tandem master cylinder systems), with its other end in a transparent container. Unscrew the bleed nipple ¥%, turn and arrange for an assistant to depress the brake pedal fully followed by three short rapid strokes and then quickly allow the pedal to return. Repeat this operation until the fluid being pumped out is free of air bubbles then tighten the bleed nipple. Repeat the procedure on the other wheels keeping to the order A,B,C,D or E,F,G,H as appropriate. Finally adjust the brakes as specified in paragraph 2.9 of Routine Maintenance. Replacing headlamp assembly Remove the six screws securing the grille then lift it out. Unscrew the three screws which retain the lamp rim, remove the rim then pull forward the lamp unit and remove the connector. When refitting ensure that the four small rubber pads are intact in the baseplate.

Fig.54. Side and flasher lamp 1

Lens retaining screws

2

Lens

3

Lamp body

Replacing side or flasher lamp Unscrew the three lens retaining screws and remove the lens. The bulbs, are of the bayonet fixing type are now completely accessible.

Replacing stop/tail and flasher lamp Open the luggage compartment (and remove the spare wheel if a left hand is to be replaced) and pull the appropriate bulb from the backplate complete with the socket assembly. The

bulbs are of the bayonet fixing type, the stop/ tail double filaments and offset pins.

Replacing rear number plate lamp Depress the lens and at the same it. When

time turn

it comes off, the bulb is accessible and

can be pulled out. Draining and flushing the cooling system To drain the cooling system, remove the expansion tank cap, the filler plug then the cylinder block drain plug. Slacken the hose retaining clips on the cross member and wing valance (1100 and 1300 cc only). Disconnect the water pump hose from its connecting pipe then, for 1100 and 1300 cc models, detach the pipe from the wing valance and push the pipe downwards. If the system is suspected as being blocked, water can be forced through the radiator from a hosepipe, either from the top or the bottom and also through the filling orifice. It is always

Fig.55. Stop/tail and flasher

lamp - bulb

fitment

1 2 3

Bulb holders Lamp backplate Indicator bulb

4

Stop/tail

5

Upper aperture (2 lugs)

lamp bulb

6

Lower aperture (1 lug)

Other Maintenance i rt 2 good policy freeze.

to

do

this

before

adding

anti-

Ss

Replace the filler plug then top up the expansion tank to the correct level, adding an extra half pint (280 cm2) to compensate for air trapped in the system. If anti-freeze is being used add a further quarter pint undiluted to the expansion tank. Recheck the level after about ten miles (15

For refilling remake the connections previously undone except for the filler plug and expansion tank cap, then add the correct strength anti-freeze mixture (where applicable) via the filling orifice.

km) of running.

€ Lah fon / / nig

Vt

i( J /}/ /A

W711

|I)

Fig.56. Number plate lamp 1

Lens

2

Retaining lugs

>

3

43

Capless bulb

Fig.57. Cooling system (1100/1300 models) (Inset) filler plug and gasket

4

Water pump/heater hose

(Inset) drain plug

Radiator bottom

Hose securing clips

hose

Fig.58. Cooling system (1500/1750 models)

1 (Inset) filler plug and gasket 2 Drain plug 3 4

Hose securing clips Water pump hose

Bodywork-Maintenance, Cleaning, Minor Repairs Introduction Most owners like their cars to look clean, well polished and free of rust. Not only does

regular cleaning show up stone chips or rust marks which can be easily attended to before getting worse, but the appearance is also maintained which ensures a good re-sale price for the car. Regular car cleaning can be considered by some as a necessary evil and only to be done when absolutely necessary, whilst others enjoy this aspect of car care far more than the routine maintenance. The secret is to keep the car clean all the time so that it is not allowed to become too dirty, making the work all that more difficult. Should the car have been recently acquired and it is in a dirty state then take it along to the local Austin garage and have the whole of the underside and engine compartment steam cleaned. This will save a tremendous amount of time. It is a very dirty job to do at home. It will not take long and it is well worthwhile. Once clean it can be kept clean. See ‘materials needed’ section at the end of the chapter before starting.

Car cleaning - interior Many car owners leave interior cleaning to last and prefer to wash the exterior first. This is really working backwards because the dust created by removal of carpets will only settle on the clean exterior. By regularly cleaning the interior, the upholstery will remain in good ‘nearly new’ condition, the carpets fresh and clean and the general appearance looking smart and well cared for. When the carpeting is removed, water leaks will be corrective action

evident and the necessary can be taken before rust sets

in. First empty the under dash panel tray, rear parcel shelf, under the front seats and the luggage compartment of all the bits and pieces

that have collected over the last few months of motoring, and place in a large cardboard box ready for sorting out and replacing. Lift out the rubber slip mats, the carpeting and underfelt. The rubber mats may be washed if very dirty or just shaken to remove loose dirt. The carpeting may be brushed, shaken or beaten to remove the dust and dirt. If badly marked they can be washed using a carpet shampoo and laid out to dry in the sun. Under-

felt should be carefully.shaken but not washed or beaten otherwise it will be difficult to dry and may start to break up. If the carpeting around the pedals is worn it is recommended that it be renewed otherwise it can be a danger especially for lady drivers wearing heeled shoes. Next lift out the rear seat cushion which will give better access for the operations following. Using

a vacuum cleaner with a flexible hose, remove all traces of dust and grit that accumulate over the months of motoring. With a suitable upholstery cleaner diluted as recommended by the manufacturer wash down all upholstery on the seats, body trim and roof lining. Use a neat solution on stubborn stains. Wipe off all traces of cleaner or soap with a moistened cloth and finally rub dry with a clean non-fluffy rag. Do not use too much water as it will cause excessive condensation in the car unless it is a hot day, and the doors may have to be left open for a while. The interior paintwork may next be cleaned and polished using a domestic aerosol polish and a clean non-fluffy rag. Door handles and chrome trim should be lightly rubbed with a moistened cloth. To clean the interior glass, interior mirror and instrument cluster glass add a little methylated spirits to water and wipe over with a soft cloth. Do nut use ordinary domestic cleaners as they can cause smearing. Inspect the seat belts for damage and make sure that the anchorages are still firm. The webbing may be washed in warm soapy water and wiped dry with an old towel. Wash down the door, boot lid and bonnet apertures and also the edges of the doors, boot lid and bonnet. Remove all traces of lubricant with a paraffin moistened cloth. Take care to clean around the door hinges and locks as these are dust traps. With a piece of wire probe the door drain holes to make sure that they are free from blockage. Inspect the floor pan for signs of rusting or leaking at the various seams. De-rust using Kurust and seal with a flexible sealing compound such as Seelastik. Whilst the front doors are open make sure that the little courtesy light switches located in the door pillars operate freely. Check the bulb in the courtesy light for operation or for a disconnected cable at the rear of the switch if the bulb does not light. Next go round all nuts, bolts and screws and

Bodywork - Maintenance, Cleaning and Minor Repairs i i make

sure that all are tight and then lubricate

the door locks and hinges, courtesy light switch plunger, choke control and front seat runners

to ensure correct and free movement. Turning to the boot, remove the complete contents including spare wheel and vacuum out all the accumulated dust and dirt. Wipe the paintwork down with a damp cloth. If carpeting is fitted clean this as well in a similar manner to the interior carpeting. Again look for water leaks especially in the corners and if necessary seal with Seelastik once the rust has been neutralised. Clear the drain holes using a piece of wire. Using

an

oil can

lubricate

the handbrake

lever assernbly and the pedal pivots. Inspect the

pedal rubbers for signs of excessive wear and fit new ones if necessary. It is dangerous to drive with worn pedal rubbers - on a wet day it is easy for the foot to accidentally slip off the pedal. Should you have a slight tear on one of the seats

or trim

from

the

panel, cut a piece of spare trim underside of one of the seats and

45

apply a coat of impact adhesive such as clear Bostik. Insert the patch into the hole with the glue uppermost and then apply adhesive to the flap of the trim section. Allow the recommended drying time to pass and then press down the torn edges, trying to get the edges as close together as possible which will make the repair less pronounced. Any large tears will have to be repaired using a piece af matching material which is obtainable from the local distributor’s body trim department. The time has now come for touching-up the interior paintwork and full details for this will be found later in this Chapter. Once the paint is dry, the rear seat cushion and carpeting may be

refitted followed by the articles that live on the parcel shelf and in the boot. This is a good time to check the contents of the first aid kit, if carried, and any deficiencies should be made up. Check the tools in the car tool roll and lubricate the threads of the jack. Stow away the contents of the luggage compartment making sure that the main tool kit is so situated where it will not slide around or rattle.

Fig.59. Some bodywork repair materials

46 es

Bodywork - Maintenance, Cleaning and Minor Repairs eee

Car cleaning - exterior (underside)

exterior

It was recommended in the introduction to this Chapter that if the car is in a dirty state it be taken to the local agents for steam cleaning. With the underside relatively clean it is an easy matter to keep it clean. Remove the interior carpeting and contents of the boot. Jack up the car as high as possible and remove the road wheels. With a garden hose, a stiff brush, tin of paraffin and scraper and, of course, suitably clad for a soaking, soak the dirt accumulated under the wheel arches and crevices, loosening where necessary with the hand scraper. This will require time and patience but work systematically front to rear removing dirt and oil. Whilst the underside of the car is drying check the seams for signs of leaking, Also generally check the tightness of all visible nuts and bolts and make sure the various pipes and wires are securely clipped to the underside of the body floor pan. Inspect the underside for signs of rusting and, if evident, clear with a wire brush and neutralise with Kurust. When the underside is really dry seal any leaking seams with a flexible sealing compound. Wipe off the Kurust with a rag soaked in methylated spirits and apply a coat of suitable red oxide cellulose primer surfaceer. Allow to dry and if the part is visible finish off with a coat of Holts car enamel! spray of the matching body paint colour. Any underbody sealer requires regular inspection to make sure that there are no loose flakes. If this is evident, scrape off the loose

area and remove any rust as described in the last paragraph. Apply a coat of red oxide primer surface and allow to dry. Underbody sealer is available in a brush-on form, although when applied fresh at. the garage it is sprayed on. A tin of this should be obtained and brushed on using a 2 inch paintbrush. On the wheel arches it is recommended that, because of stones being thrown up by the tyres, two coats are applied with time allowed for drying between each coat. Finally before lowering the car to the ground again check the exhaust system for leaks with the engine running. Take care not to allow the engine to run for too long otherwise there may be an accumulation

of exhaust fumes

under the car.

that

once

a week

the

be washed

and

wiped

dry.

body seams which could start water leaks. Once the dirt has been loosened wipe down the panels using the brush with water still running through it as this way the paintwork should not be scratched by road grit. Next apply wax car shampoo or a little nondetergent washing up liquid, working from the roof downwards. Any stubborn dead flies, marks or tar may be removed using white spirit on a soft cloth. Do not forget to clean the wing mirrors, front grille, the wiper blades and, of

course, the wheels with the hub caps removed. A leather must not be used with a detergent or shampoo as it will cause it to rot.

Finally rinse off all the suds with plenty of clean water and wipe dry using a leather. Wipe all spots and smears from the windscreen, rear screen and door glass using the leather. When the car is dry the glass may be polished with a rag soaked in a methylated spirits and water solution. Chromium plating requires regular cleaning with a damp cloth or ‘leather. Occasionally one of the special polishes for chromium plating may be used but on no account use an ordinary metal polish. Every six months it is recommended that the exterior be wax polished. There are however several important points to be noted before polish is used on a Car. 1 If the car is new do not polish for at least two months to allow the paint to dry fully and harden.

2 If part of the paintwork has been resprayed allow at least two months to dry fully and harden. 3 Do not use a cutting paste to remove the dull film from cars sprayed with a metallic paint.

4 When

purchasing

a wax

polish always make

sure that it is suitable for the type of paintwork on the car.

5

Car cleaning - exterior It is recommended

of the car

For this job a flexibrush on the end of the garden hose is best and a sponge to assist wiping down and a leather to finish the operation off. First make sure that all windows and doors are closed then thoroughly wet the car with water using a gentle spray. Take care not to aim the jet of water directly at the windows or

Do not attempt to wax polish a car which has just been washed because paintwork absorbs moisture slightly and the wax coating

Bodywork - Maintenance, Cleaning and Minor Repairs can hold this moisture so giving an effect called ‘micro blistering’ caused by minute rust spots under the paint film. Finally a few ‘Don'ts’ to avoid deterioration of the paintwork. 1 Don’t dust down or polish a dusty car. Always wash. 2 Don’t get polish or wax on any of the glass. 3 Don't neglect hidden parts of the door when polishing. 4 Don't leave birdlime on the paintwork - it will cause stains. 5 Don't park under trees especially in the hot sun or when raining. 6 Don’t use a cutting compound or haze remover on cars finished with an acrylic paint. 7 Don’t use wax without cleaning the car first. Bodywork - paint touch-up On any modern car with an all steel body the greatest enemy of all is rust and this is most likely to start under the wings or along the sills because the road wheels wii! fling water, mud and grit onto the paint surface and it will only be a matter of time before the paint skin is

penetrated and rusting starts. It is for this reason that many new cars are given a thick coat of underseal, usually of a bituminous or rubber base, to guard against rusting. However, if this was the end of the story, paint maintenance would be relatively simple but unfortunately it is not because chips appear at the front of the wings, along the outside of the wing panels and doors as well as

47

use a silicone solvent to remove all traces of polish which will not allow the paint to adhere properly. If there are signs of rusting or the paint beginning to lift use a sharp penknife and carefully scrape away the loose paint and rust. Then neutralise the rust with a little Kurust and allow to dry. With a piece of rag soaked in methylated spirits wipe away the dry Kurust. The prepared spot may now be touched in with the touch-up brush. Shake the tin vigorously for a few minutes to ensure that the paint is well mixed and withdraw the brush. Wipe the brush on the inside of the neck of the tin and then dip in the end of the brush until there is a little paint on it just sufficient to touch in the area concerned. Very carefully apply a thin coat of paint only to the area concerned and allow to dry thoroughly. Apply a further thin coat so as to build up the paint to the original paint thickness. This will take time and patience but with care the touch-up should be indistinguishable from the surrounding area. If there is a scratch on the paintwork which has penetrated the top coat of paint and the red primer is showing through, the basic procedure is the same. First remove all traces of polish with a solvent and then with the knife lift off any loose paint. Neutralise any rust and finally touch in the scratches preferable with one sweep of the brush. For this, a fine brush may be better than the brush provided with the tin. Build up the paint to the original paint thick-

ness.

the edges of the bonnet and boot lid. Whilst the car is being cleaned these chip marks will become evident and it is important that they are attended to immediately otherwise rusting will occur and spread so that what was once a small chip will gradually turn into a large area requiring a great deal more renovation work. Touch-up

paint is usually available

in either

touch-up pencil, tin with a little brush in the lid or aerosol form and may be obtained as a good match to the original body colour. It must, however, be realised that some paint colours are more stable than others. Due to the action of sunlight on an older car an exact match may be difficult unless a tin of touch-up paint is mixed

by the paint department of your local distributor to match the exact colour of your Car. The author prefers to use a touch-up tin with brush incorporated in the lid for making good, chips and very small scratches. To prepare the surface for touching-up first

The edges of doors and boot lid seem to suffer very much and small areas of rust frequently appear. In this case an aerosol tin of primer and enamel top coat will be required. Again use the silicone solvent to remove any polish from the area concerned. Rub down the paint around the area with a little wet or dry

paper grade 400 until the area is smooth. As the name implies the paper can be used either dry or with water. The latter method tends to keep the grit of the paper clear of dust and also acts as a lubricant. Neutralise any rust with Kurust and when dry wipe with a piece of cloth soaked in methylated spirits. Before spraying make sure the car is sheltered from wind and dust. Shake the aerosol tin of primer for a few minutes to ensure that there is no sediment in the bottom, usually the manufacturer drops in a ball bearing to assist

‘Qg'bi4

ysomApog siedas

89uanbas (L)

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(Z) 9°6i4 "1 ysoMAPOg s1edas 80uanbas

50

Bodywork - Maintenance, Cleaning and Minor Repairs

agitation of the paint. If this is the first time that an aerosol tin is being used try it on a piece of metal such as an old tin to get the ‘feel’ of the spray and then proceed to spray the prepared surface. Remember the success of this work lies in the preparation. The smoother the prepared surface, the better will be the finish. Hold the jet about six inches away from the area to be sprayed and work from the centre outwards, keeping the centre moist and the outside lightly sprayed and dry. When dry, very lightly rub in the primer with wet or dry paper to roughen up the surface then inspect for blemishes caused by dust or bad preparation. Rectify any faults by rubbing down again and applying a further coat of primer. It is only when the surface under repair is perfect that the final top coat may be applied. Again experiment on a piece of metal, if this is your first time, and when you are confident apply the top coat to the primer. Remember it is like ordinary household painting - two thin coats are better than one thick coat.

Should runs occur it is an indication that either too much paint has been applied at one go or the nozzle was too near to the surface being sprayed. Rub down the area concerned and start again. With all touching up, be it a small spot ora larger rusted area, allow the paint to dry thoroughly, at least overnight, and then use a little rubbing compound to blend in the edges of the paint and remove any dry spray. If the rusted area is near to a piece of chrome trim there is no need to remove it but mask up the chrome trim with a little sellotape Or proper masking tape. This may be removed once the paint is half-dry leaving no paint overspray marks on the trim. Take care when sticking down the tape and use a knife to push the tape around any curved areas. Should the scratch be only a minor one without penetration through to the undercoat it may be removed using a rubbing compound, but take great care in its use. It may leave a light patch.

Bodywork - deep scratching, dent or crease removal This type of repair requires a little more work but is well within the do-it-yourself motorist’s capabilities, provided that care is taken and the job is not rushed. Again prepar-

ation is the secret to good results. The method of approach will depend on the location of the damage but in all cases if it is possible to push the dent or crease out from behind so much the better. This may mean removal of a piece of interior trim. Should, however, this present problems then do not worry too much unless the original shape cannot be achieved (even

with building up with a filler). For safety reasons on this next, operation wear a pair of goggles or a pair of glasses to protect the eyes. Using an electric sander with an abrasive disc on the rubber pad, remove all the paint right down to the bare metal from the area surrounding the damage as well as the damaged area itself. Work the area until all traces of paint including undercoat and primer have been removed and an area of bare metal is obtained. Next coat the area of bare metal with a special zinc primer such as Galvafroid primer to give additional protection against future corrosion as well as to provide a key for the body filler. Allow to dry thoroughly. The body filler must next be prepared according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Usually these come in two parts, a tin of filler in paste form and a hardener. Read through the mixing instructions and when fully conversant mix only enough for immediate use to guard against waste as most fillers are expensive and once the hardener has been added the paste has a very limited working time of a few minutes. It is best to mix the hardener using a plastic or wooden spatula (a flat wooden iced-lolly stick is suitable).

The filler should be applied to the damaged area and about one inch either side of it so as to allow for preparing the surface for final finishing. Do not apply the filler to paintwork as it will not adhere properly. Carefully smooth the filler to the contour

of the body panel but do not try to work the filler once it has started to harden. When the filler has hardened it should be rubbed down using a coarse wet or dry paper grade 120. Do not use an electric sander for this or subsequent operations as its action is too fierce. Carefully rub the smooth surface until the contour matches the rest of the panel and it is relatively smooth. Use the paper either wet or dry. Wash down the area being worked upon and inspect for imperfections and small air holes or area requiring further building-up. On

Bodywork - Maintenance, Cleaning and Minor Repairs flat panels use a sanding block but on curved areas just use the paper by itself. Mix some filler and apply where necessary to

make good any defects found. When the filler is dry, blend into the rest of the area using wet or dry paper. Now use wet 280 grade paper rub down the complete area taking care to blend the filler edges to the bare metal. This may take time but remember the preparation determines the quality of finish. Wipe the complete area dry and inspect again for any blemishes. These must be rectified at this stage. With the palm of the hand feel the surface for any high or low spots caused by over-ambitious rubbing down and again rectify if evident. When you are entirely satisfied that the area is perfect the next stage is to mask over any adjoining panels or chrome trim with sellotape or masking tape and newspaper. Apply a coat of Galvafroid Zinc Plate to give a good key for the primer as well as giving additional rust protection. Allow to dry. The primer may now be applied with a good quality paintbrush which will not moult. Paint the whole of the area under repair and allow to dry. Very lightly rub down the surface with wet 400 grade paper and inspect for any imperfections. Then wash down and allow the moisture to dry. Apply a second coat of primer and again lightly rub down and wash. The repair is now ready for receiving the top coat. Holding the nozzle about six inches away from the surface spray behind any catches or fittings first and then work from the centre of the pane! outwards until the repaired section of the panel is covered. Make sure that the part overlaps the existing paint by a couple of inches to allow for feathering, and allow to dry. Lightly rub down the surface with wet 400 grade paper and allow to dry, overnight if possible.

Now spray on a second top coat and if necessary a third coat until a depth of colour matches the original paintwork. When the final coat is completely dry rub the surface with a soft cloth and some rubbing compound paying particular attention to the areas where the new paint overlaps the original. Wipe off the compound and inspect the finished result for signs of any blemishes which should be corrected by rubbing down and respraying.

51

Finally remove the masking tape and paper and lightly polish with a clean soft cloth. DO NOT apply a polish for at least two months to allow the paint to harden. Provided that care was taken in the selection of the materials and the instructions followed the results should be satisfactory, but if something has gone wrong the following table should be of assistance:

FAULT

CAUSE

Blotchy finish

Insufficient number of primer or top coats Spray nozzle too near panel during spraying. Too much Paint applied Too thick a coat application Spray nozzle too far away from panel. Not all dust removed from previous flatting operation Unsuitable materials used

Paint runs

Rippling (called orange peel) Matt finish

Creasing

for

Overspray

Rough finish Faded patches of top coat (called blooming)

primer

Insufficient

top

coat

masking

or

- use

cutting compound to remove it Spraying in dusty or windy conditions Usually caused by spraying in damp conditions. Most pronounced with dark colours

Bodywork - serious corrosion

Should a body panel such as a lower door panel, leading edge of a wing or sill as opposed to a main structural member be badly corroded, it is within the capabilities of a more experienced do-it-yourself owner to make the panel look as good as new. The first thing to do is to sand down the affected area for a further inspection. Do not forget to wear goggles or glasses to protect the eyes. Use an electric drill with sanding attachment and a coarse disc to remove the paint from the rusted section as well as the immediate area surrounding the more visible part affected. Next hammer or cut away all affected metal until sound metal is reached and then treat with Galvafroid Zinc Plate paint to check subsequent corrosion. Obtain a piece of perforated zinc plate as

52 a

Bodywork - Maintenance, Cleaning and Minor Repairs i a a a

found in old meat safes and cut off a section larger than the hole produced by the removal of affected metal and inset into the hole, if necessary, moulding it to the shape of the panel. Use paper clips or small self tapping screws to keep it in place. Mix sufficient filler according to the maker's instructions to apply a thin coat to the zinc plate and immediate surrounding area and work it well in so as to provide a good key for subsequent layers. Allow it to dry. Continue building up, a layer at a time, until the contour of the body panel has been reproduced and then allow to dry. Thereafter follow the instructions given in the last section, shaping and blending the filler

to the existing body contour, and then finally paint.

Materials needed Before any car cleaning, minor bodywork repair or paintwork is attempted, it is recommended that the following list of possible requirements is studied and the necessary materials obtained: -

Car cleaning - interior Vacuum cleaner Carpet brush Carpet shampoo Upholstery cleaner Soft soap (non-caustic) Clean non-fluffy rags Small bottle methylated spirits

Small bottle paraffin Jar Kurust Seelastik flexible sealing compound Bostik inpact clear adhesive Oil can

Car cleaning - exterior (underside) Wire brush Jar Kurust Seelastik flexible sealing compound Small bottle methylated spirits Red oxide cellulose primer surfaces Holts car enamel spray (matching colour of

car) Tin brushing underbody sealer Tin Holts Gun Gum

Car cleaning - exterior Hose and flexibrush Car shampoo

Leather Sponge Piece of polythene sheeting square Bottle white spirit Small bottle methylated spirits Clean non-fluffy rags Tin wax polish Tin chrome plate cleaner

about

3

ft

Bodywork - paint touch-up Touch-up tin of matching enamel paint Bottle silicone solvent Jar Kurust Small bottle methylated spirits Wet or dry paper 400 grade Touch-up paint - aerosol - primer Touch-up paint - aeroso! - matching enamel paint Sellotape or masking tape Newspaper Belco rubbing compound

Bodywork - deep scratching, dent removal 1 pair goggles Electric sander with abrasive disc Galvafroid Primer 1 pack Cataloy body filler Plastic or wooden spatula

or

crease

1 piece of hardboard or plywood (approximately 1” x 1”) Wet or dry paper grade 120 Wet or dry paper grade 280 Wet or dry paper grade 400 1 tin brushing primer 1 good quality paintbrush Holts car enamel spray (matching colour of car) Holts car primer spray Clean non-fluffy rags Sellotape or masking tape Newspaper Belco rubbing compound

Bodywork - serious corrosion Metal cutters Perforated zinc plate Plus all items mentioned in previous section

Preparing your car for the MOT Test On your car’s third birthday from new it must be subjected to the annual MOT test. This means taking the car to a garage which is an official test centre and having the car inspected and road tested by an examiner who has been appointed by the Ministry of Transport and has authority to perform the test. The test should not take more than about three quarters of an hour and will be conducted in three stages; car on a lift or over a pit, car on the ground and finally a road test. The question is: Will the car pass or not? If you have followed the recommendations for regular routine maintenance and_ inspection there is a much better chance of it passing without any problems. The main theme of the test is safety and if any parts of the steering, brakes, tyres and lighting system require attention, the car is not safe to drive. Also it is not within the law to do so. : One way of ensuring that the car passes is to carry out your own test before submitting it to the garage and the object of this chapter is to let you know what the examining mechanic will be looking for. Details of how to rectify any faults found that are within the scope of this handbook will be found else where in the book.

Steering and suspension With the car standing on level ground check the play in the steering wheel. It should move no more than one inch at its outer edge before the wheels begin to move. Open the bonnet and check that the steering rack is firmly mounted on the car. The rack is secured to the body with U bolts and these must be tight. Jack up the front of the car, having first applied the handbrake and rock the wheels to check if there is any wear in the wheel bearings. These will have to be renewed if wear is evident.

Rest the front of the car on stands or wooden blocks and slide under the car. Check the tightness of all the linkages in the steering system. Check that all nuts are tight and where applicable have their split pins correctly fitted. Sources of play include the inner track rod ends (adjacent to the rack) and these are adjustable. The outer joints must be renewed if seriously worn. Play in the steering can be due to the rack requiring adjustment. If it is the pinion end it may be cured by adjustment of the pinion but if it is at the other end a new bush will have to be fitted. Check for wear in the upper and lower fixings of the swivel flange and steering lever (vertical link) and if movement is evident this will be a job for the local garage before the car is submitted for the test. Inspect the bushes on the lower suspension arm and upper suspension arm for signs of deterioration or wear. If evident, this again is a job for the local Austin garage. Place a little earth on the ground onto which the front tyres will rest and lower the car. (The earth will enable the front wheels to be moved easier during the next check). Turn the steering wheel to full lock in both directions and make sure that the wheels do not foul the bodywork or chassis and chafe the tyres. Chock the front wheels and jack up the rear of the car. Check the tightness of all suspension attachments. Grasp the rear wheel and rock to check if there is any wear or maladjustment of the wheel bearings. If evident, movement may be corrected by either adjustment or renewal of bearings. The degree of wear allowed in the steering gear is not laid down precisely but it is up to the individual judgment of the tester as to whether he considers the car to be in a safe condition. Some testers may be more stringent

54

Preparing your Car for the MOT Test

than others but do not risk driving a car with faulty steering; always have worn parts replaced as a matter of course. It will be cheaper in the long run.

Tyres Jack up each road wheel in turn and carefully inspect the tread and walls for signs of cracking and bulging. At the same time remove any stones from the tread. Check that there is not less than one millimetre of tread across at least three quarters of the width and all round the tyre. If a tyre is showing irregular wear patterns, not only should it be renewed, but the steering geometry should be looked at by your Austin dealer. Radial tyres are fitted as standard equipment and should therefore always be used for prefer-

Lights Switch on the lights and check that they are all functioning correctly. Check the operation of the headlamps on full beam and dipped beam. Also satisfy yourself that the headlamps are correctly adjusted and that the main beam warning light operates when the lights are on full beam. Back the car up against a wall and check that the brake stop lights work, both with and without

the

Also check

side

lights

on,

in the

reflection.

the operation of the reverse lights.

Check the operation of the indicator lights both front, side and rear. They should flash at between 50 and 120 times per minute. Check that the lenses of the stop and tail lights are not

broken

or faded, they must show

a positive bold red light.

ence. If for any reason it is necessary to mix the

Bodywork

types of tyre, the only permissible method is to put two cross ply on the front and two radials on the rear. Otherwise it should be all radials or, if it has to be so, all cross ply.

for signs of rust or corrosion, particularly where the corrosion points may affect the safety of

Brakes Carefully examine al! the metal and flexible hydraulic pipes and hoses for signs of leaking, corrosion and chafing. Clean off the mud, dirt etc from the flexible rubber hoses and examine them for any signs of perishing, bulging or fraying, caused by rubbing or stones thrown up. Check round the brake discs (front) and drums (rear) for any sign of hydraulic fluid leakage from the calipers or wheel cylinders. This form of leakage will severely affect the braking efficiency when the car is road tested. Get into the car, release the handbrake and depress the brake pedal. If there is excessive travel on the pedal before the brakes come on, the brakes will need adjusting (drum brakes only). If there is evidence of sponginess in the pedal it will mean that air has entered the hydraulic system and the brakes will need bleeding. Check that the handbrake cable is in good condition and that the clevis pins on the rear brake backplate are not worn and their retaining split pins are in place. Check that the handbrake lever operates correctly and the ratchet holds. When the brakes are correctly adjusted the handbrake should travel up the ratchet about four or five clicks to be fully on.

The

tester

will examine

the car thoroughly

the car. The Allegro is however well rust proofed and it is not envisaged that there will be any serious corrosion problems especially during its early years. The tester will also examine the state of the exhaust system and if this is badly rusted, is loose or has obvious holes in it, the car may fail its test.

Miscellaneous There are

two

other

items

which

the

examiner will look for, namely safety belts and windscreen washers. Considering the former,

check that the anchorages are securely fitted and that there is no rust present. Carefully examine the webbing for any signs of chafing or fraying; if any is found, the only answer is to have the belts replaced. Make sure that they lock and release satisfactorily, not just sometimes, but everytime. Now check that the windscreen washer reservoir is full and that both jets give a satisfactory spray. Check also that the wipers are functioning satisfactorily

and that the wiper blades are in good condition. Road test The purpose of the tester driving the car on the road is to satisfy himself that it handles properly. If there is anything major wrong with the steering you will probably already have spotted this fault and had it rectified before the test.

Preparing your Car for the MOT Test The brakes

tester will check the efficiency of the by using a decelerometer, a piece of

equipment which is not readily available to the public. However you can do 4 rough test on the brakes by using an ordinary brick. Get the car onto a reasonably long, deserted, straight and smooth piece of road, place the brick on the front passenger floor and on one of its narrow longer side, and gently accelerate up to 30 mph. Checking that it is safe to do so, apply the brakes hard without locking the wheels. The fall over at this point quite brick should quickly. Repeat the test and stop the car using the handbrake only, this time the brick should just topple over quite gently. 1f the car pulls violently to one side or the other on heavy braking this may well cause a failure of the test. Refer in this cas to the fault

finding tables later in this handbook.

55 LL

see

LL

Conclusion \f all appears to be well the car can be submitted for its test. Before taking it in, make sure you have the log book and the old test certificate to hand for the tester. Have enough petrol in the tank to enable the road test to be carried out. It is advisable to leave instructions with the garage telling them that should any minor faults be found they should be put right on the spot to prevent a further waste of time and money. You should be informed of any major faults before the repair work is begun. If your car fails the test becaus# of a fault of this nature, do not get upset about it. Remember that the tester is

thinking of your safety and the safety of other road uvrs and be thankful that any fault was discovered before it may have caused an accident.

Buying and Selling a used Allegro Buying When initially considering whether to buy a used Allegro, purchase a copy of the monthly publication ‘Motorist’s Guide to New and Used Car Prices’ to get some idea of how much you should be paying. Private owners and the smaller dealers usually offer cars at a lower price for a quick sale but be very careful to check the car thoroughly. Your bargain could turn out to be very worn which might cost you a great deal more in repair bills than at first anticipated. If you can possibly afford it, go to a reputable local dealer and preferably one who gives a guarantee on his products when they have been checked over by their own dealers. However, if the money available will not allow this, go to a dealer who specialises in the sale of used cars or to the private seller, but be prepared to spend a little time in giving the car a good going over. Later on in this chapter mention will be made of the various points that must be checked. Most car dealers and private car sellers are honest but you must safeguard yourself as it should not be forgotten that the car is usually the second most expensive purchase for the family man - a house being the first.

The motoring organisations operate an excellent car inspection service whereby they will send an engineer to inspect the car and

then send you a confidential report. Obviously there is a small fee involved but this may be considered as an investment. Having located the car which you are considering purchasing, the first thing to do is

to give it an initial superficial check.

Look at

the tyres, including the spare as they will tell a

story of their own. They will show you how the car has been treated. Look for signs of stress on the tyre walls (remember there is an inside wall as well as an outside wall which you will require to look at on bended knees). If sma!l cracks exist in the walls or there are signs of uneven

wear

of the tread pattern these two points alone indicate lack of attention to tyre pressures and a snubbed effect of the tyre tread indicates that either the wheels are out of alignment or the body is bent due possibly to previous accident damage. Stand well back from the car and walk around it slowly. Does it look right or is there a noticeable sag at the front or rear? Note the colour of the paintwork and if it is the same colour on all the panels. If not it has been resprayed. Now open the doors one at a time and hold the edge furthest from the hinges and see how much rock or play you can find. Gently but firmly close the door and make sure that it closes easily and correctly. If the door fits correctly there should be no need to slam it. Whilst each door is open try opening and closing the windows. Note any stiffness in operation, also if glass is free of cracks or scratches. Do not forget to check the windscreen and rear window glass for scratches or deep stone chips.

Look for signs of rust around the edges of the wings, the sills, the boot and the bonnet. Have a look along the top of the front wings by the screen for signs of paint blistering which indicates corrosion through the wing panel to the underside of the paint. Also look for chipping of the paint along the doors in confined spaces. Note the colour of the driver’s seat to see if it is very dirty compared with the Passenger’s seat. This will give an indication as to the usage. If the passenger seat is dirty and the driver’s seat clean it is probable that a seat cover has been used. Sit in the driver’s seat and lean back in it hard. This will indicate the amount of give should the brake pedal be suddenly depressed. Try the seat on its adjustment runners. Check the operation of the seat rake by moving the lever rearwards. Also can you feel the construction of the seat through your backside, showing that it has settled badly? Do not wear

Buying and Selling a Used Allegro your overcoat for this as it will give a false impression. Look down to your feet and see if

the pedal rubbers have worn. These will show wear if the car has covered a high mileage. Dealers are wise to this and fit new pedal rubbers when reconditioning a high mileage car. Look at the speedometer and see if the mileage covered is reasonable for the age of the car. Speedometer failure just before the car is sold can be suspect as a cover against high mileage. Try the handbrake (keep your foot on the footbrake to stop the car rolling) and if correctly adjusted it will pull up 4 or 5 notches on the ratchet. Also move the gearchange lever to all the positions noting any signs of excessive play Or movement. Depress the clutch and brake pedals and see if there is a reasonable amount of free movement on the clutch pedal and if it is possible to select both forward and reverse gears without the pedal being pushed hard on the floor. (The engine should be running for this last test). Press hard on the brake pedal and make sure that it gives a firm action without signs of sponginess.

Climb out of the car and with the bonnet open look around the engine compartment. A clean looking engine usualiy indicates a careful owner whilst a dirty oi! soaked engine shows that the owner was not meticulous. Look for oil leaks especially around the timing cover and clutch housing area which could be expensive to rectify. Inspect the cooling system and exterior of the engine for water jieaks. These will be shown by rust deposits at the cylinder head joint, cylinder head, cylinder block, core plugs, radiator and heater hoses and the radiator itself. Look at the small nuts and bolts on the distributor and carburettor to see if they have their edges damaged, indicating the use of pliers for adjustment instead of the correct size spanner. Withdraw the oil level dipstick, wipe it clean on an old rag or paper handkerchief and replace the dipstick. Withdraw it again and note the level. Look at the colour of the oil and if it looks dirty rub a little between the fingers. If it feels like treacle or gritty it is a sure indication that it is well overdue for changing. If it feels rough, have a closer look for traces of white bearing metal, which, if evident, indicates the engine has very worn bearings which can be costly to put right. Look at the spark plug insulators, HT leads,

57

coil top and distributor cap to see if they are clean and not cracked or damaged. Finally, before going on further with the inspection, unscrew the hydraulic reservoir caps and the radiator expansion chamber cap and check that the levels are correct. If the car was standing when you arrived to inspect it, just put your hand on the radiator to see if it is hot. This will show if the engine has been running just before your inspection as an engine in good condition will start easily if cold and immediately if warm whereas a worn or tired engine can be difficult to start. Start the engine and check that both the ignition warning light (red) and the low oil pressure warning light (amber) extinguish immediately and do not come on at any time whilst the engine is running. Look at the exhaust to see if there are signs of blue smoke which indicate worn valves, pistons and/or cylinder bores. Listen hard for strange noises when the engine is idling smoothly. There should be no taps, thumps, clonks or rattles, any one of which can indicate trouble.

If the engine

is speeded

up suddenly

and

then the throttle closed any thumping noises evident indicate worn big ends, crankshaft main bearings or excessive crankshaft end float. Tapping noises are probably worn little ends or cracked pistons whilst a rattling noise can be a worn timing chain.

According to a recent car breakdown survey most failures are due to electrical faults - see what the electrical system is like on this car. Switch on all the lights and check that the dip switch operates correctly. Leave the lights on for a minute. With the engine switched off inspect each cell of the battery to see if the electrolyte has been correctly topped up. Now go back to the driver's seat and start the engine again noticing if the lights dim considerably. The object of this test is to see the approximate condition of the battery. If it will not start the engine then a new battery will be required. Look at the fuses and see that none of them have been replaced by a piece of wire, cigarette packet paper or an old nail or screw. Take extreme care if this is the case as it is an indication that there has been previous trouble with the electrical system. Check the operation of all electrical accessories. Now for a little hard work. Turn the front wheels to the straight ahead position and walk about ten yards forwards. Look at the angles of the front wheels. If they tilt towards each other

58

Buying and Selling a Used Allegro

at the top then something is amiss. It could be wheel bearings requiring adjustment but the trouble may be something far more expensive. Chock the rear wheels and raise the two front wheels from the ground. Grasp each tyre at the top and bottom and try to rock it to and fro. Any movement indicates worn wheel bearings or suspension joints. To give an idea which one is at fault remove the wheel trim and also the hub cap. Repeat the rocking movement looking for movement between the hub and stub axle. Play here indicates worn wheel bearings.

Kneeling at the front of the car grasp one wheel in each hand and try to move one wheel relative to the other. If any movement exists

there is wear in the tie-rod and ball joints. From outside the car turn the steering wheel from one lock to the other checking for signs of roughness at any particular point. Now lower the car to the ground. Check that there is no more than 1 inch free movement at the rim of the steering wheel. Any excessive movement indicates wear in the steering rack. Finally, bounce the car up and down by pushing and pulling on the body at roof level. This will give an idea as to the general condition of the suspension. The time has now come for a road test but first there are one or two other things to think about. Ask the owner or dealer for sight of the log book. This will mean a walk for him but will put him at ease for the next few questions. See how many owners of the car are recorded. Beware

of a duplicate

Fig.62. Tyre tread depth check

log book or one stamped

indicating that the car has been an insurance write-off. Ask the seller (as opposed to a dealer) the reason for selling the car and how long has

he had it. If the seller is a dealer make a note of the

name and address of the previous owner. More about that later. Although you probably know the price being asked for the car, casually ask the seller again and make a quick mental calculation deducting 10 to 15 per cent, depending on your previous price survey of a reasonable asking price for a car of the age. Do not say anything else yet. Before commencing the road test, make sure that you are covered by insurance and that the car is taxed. This is not applicable if the dealer’s trade plates are being used. Allow the seller to drive first and listen hard for rattles, squeaks, clonks etc. Notice if the driver keeps his foot

Fig.63. Check hydraulic hoses for splitting

Buying and Selling a Used Allegro resting on the clutch pedal. After a few miles, ask to be allowed to drive yourself and at this point the rea! road test begins. First notice for

signs of steering wander which can be due to incorrect tyre pressures or wear in the steering system. Try a series of quick accelerations and decelerations noting the length of time it takes the engine to build up speed again. This is a good indication as to engine condition. Listen for noises from the engine/transmission unit whilst you are driving especially when accelerating and decelerating. Try stopping and then accelerating through the gears several times and then slowing down by changing down through the gears. Any difficulty or nolse during gear changing can be attributed to lack of synchromesh action or clutch wear. Try an emergency stop but first make sure that your passenger is well braced and prepared and also that there are no cars behind you. The car should stop without veering to one side of the road or the other. Next slow down rapidly using the brakes and this time with the hands

off the steering wheel. This will indicate any tendency to pull to one side or the other. Finally, on the way back from the road test make sure that the direction indicators and horn operate correctly. When the car is stationary check for oil leaks by putting a newspaper

under the transmission unit. If you are satisfied that the car is up to expectations and in good condition then the final thing to do is to negotiate the price. Asa starting point make an offer of the figure previously calculated. !f you can wait a day or so before giving the final ‘yes’ or ‘no’ when the Car is being sold by a used car dealer and as you had the opportunity of noting the name and address of the previous owner as found in the log book, make contact with him and very tactfully find out the reason for him selling and any other information about the car that you can. The decision on whether or not to purchase is now up to you.

Selling Much

of what

has been said with regard to

buying a used Allegro is relevant in selling one,

except, of course, that the boot is on the other foot. Whatever the reasons are for selling, be they that you want a bigger, better or different car, you simply need the money, or your circum-

59

stances have changed, there is the relatively simple, standard approach - you want the best price for your car. With this end in view, whilst we hope that you will be giving value for money at the same time, there is a basic method of preparation for the car. Cleanliness is all. The cleaner the car, the higher the price. The bodywork’s condition, both inside and out,

should

be the

main

selling point. Mechanical

repair work is usually cheaper and faster to undertake than extensive bodywork repairs or renovation. The condition of the bodywork is usually indicative of the total condition of the car because it wiil show signs of age and dis-

repair sooner than the engine or gearbox, particularly on cars more than three years old. It is unlikely that owners will keep their cars in excellent condition mechanically and allow the body to drop off around it. Attend to the paintwork, chrome and all exterior trim, clean the outside thoroughly and polish the car, clean out the boot, the engine compartment, and ‘spring clean’ the interior. There are methods of doing this explained in the Bodywork Chapter of this book. Because of the short time usually taken to actually complete a sale there can only be something less than a complete detailed check by a potential purchaser and rather more, a quick visual one. As there are various ways of buying a used car so there are similar methods of selling but they are considered on their merits from completely different standpoints. The way in which you sell your car will depend on why you are selling and these reasons were described in the previous paragraph. The best prices are often obtained when part exchanging your car for a new one from an accredited dealer. However, shop around from dealer to dealer; their buying-in prices will vary according to how eager they are to sell the new car you want, and how eager they are to actually have your present car to re-sell. Nevertheless, with many dealers not wanting used cars of more than three years old it may be better to sell privately whatever your circumstances. Here, local papers, notice boards etc are the best media for selling. It is unlikely that you will receive the best price from a used car dealer at least as a cash transaction, unless he requires a good example for a particular customer, because he will have to put his mark-up onto the car to re-sell. Auctions do not often provide the best recompense. You can, of course, put on a reserve

60

Buying and Selling a Used Allegro

price. They usually do provide a sale though, if you are finding it difficult to sell your particular car. The same premise applies when you are selling your car as when you are buying one with regard to the actual selling price. The same guide is valid. However, there are other indications. Go around to various dealers and ask them for the prices of used cars of a similar age and condition to yours and look at the prices in the local papers, and then fix a reasonable price and be prepared to bargain. There are obviously price trends with regard to time and place to sell. Prices usually creep upwards in the spring and you may be fortunate enough to live in a high demand area such as London or eastern England where prices will again be marginally

higher than elsewhere. In conclusion remember when selling your car that the law exists both to protect you and the buyer. The Trades Description Act does affect you as the seller. If the car you are selling is under a hire purchase agreement, the permission of the finance company must be obtained first. Irrespective of the age of your car it must have a current road fund licence, MOT certificate (when applicable) and insurance before it can even be tested on the road. Always give a receipt and do not part with the car and log book until you are sure you have Do not removed inserted informed

the money, if you are paid by cheque.

forget to make sure your name is from the log book and the buyer’s and that the local Taxation Office is of a change of ownership.

61

KEY TO WIRING

DIAGRAM

Wiper motor

40 41 42 44

Starter solenoid relay (if fitted) Battery Alternator RH sidelamp LH front flasher lamp RH front fiasher lamp OnNOoOhWN LH sidelamp 11 RH dip headlamp 12 RH main headlamp

fitted) 48 Fuse unit (No. 2 fuse) 49 Lighting switch

50 Heated back light (if fitted) 53 Cigar lighter (if fitted)

LH main headlamp Heater motor Electric windscreen washer Heater switch Starter solenoid Automatic transmission safety switch (if

fitted) 20 21 22 23

Horn RH door switch LH door switch Automatic gear quadrant illumination (if

47 Radiator cooling fan motor

13 LH dip headlamp 14 15 16 17 18 19

ON PAGE 62

Ignition coil Combined wiper and washer switch

Radio (if fitted) Line fuse for radio

24 Fuse unit (No. 5 fuse) 25 Starter motor

26 ignition/starter switch

54 Hazard warning flasher unit 56 Hazard warning lamp 57 Hazard warning switch 58 Flasher unit

59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 70 71 72 74 75

Stop lamp switch Instrument voltage stabilizer RH tail lamp No charge warning lamp

78 79 80 82 85 86

Oil pressure switch Fuel gauge tank unit Water temperature transmitter LH rear flasher lamp RH rear flasher lamp Printed circuit instrument panel

Oil pressure warning lamp

Direction indicator switch RH stop lamp Fuel gauge Water temperature gauge Direction indicator warning lamp

Panel lamp Main beam warning lamp Panel lamp LH tail lamp Number plate illumination lamp 77 LH stop lamp

27 Line fuse 28 Distributor

29 Fuse unit (No. 1 fuse) 30 Dip switch

31 Headlamp fiasher switch 32 Horn push

33 Fuse unit (No. 4 fuse) 34 Heated back light switch (if fitted) 35 Interior light 36 Radiator cooling fan thermostat 37 Radiator cooling fan relay

CABLE COLOUR N U

Brown Blue

P G

Purple Green

R

Red

LG Light Green

CODE W White

O

Orange

Y B

K_ S_

Pink Slate

Yellow’ Black

When a cable has two colour code letters the first denotes the main colour and the second denotes the tracer colour.

62

48

io)

| =I

Wiring diagram for 1100/1300 De luxe and Super models (for key see page 61)

63

KEY TO WIRING DIAGRAMS Wiper motor Starter solenoid relay (if fitted)

44 Automatic gear quadrant illumination (if

Battery Alternator RH sidelamp RH front flasher lamp LH front flasher lamp LH sidelamp

45 Split brake differential switch (if fitted)

= OMANOMDOARWN RH repeater flasher

fitted) 46 Boot light switch (Special only) 47 Radiator cooling fan motor

48 Fuse unit (No. 2 and No. 3 fuse—LH Stg. vehicles only) 49 Lighting switch

) )

10 LH repeater flasher

(if fitted)

13 LH dip headlamp 14 LH main headlamp Heater motor Electric windscreen washer Heater switch

Starter solenoid

19 Automatic transmission safety switch (if fitted) 20 21 22 23

Ignition coil Combined wiper and washer switch Radio (if fitted) Line fuse for radio

24 Fuse unit (No. 5 fuse) 25 Starter motor

26 Ignition/starter switch 27 Line fuse 28 Distributor

29 Fuse unit (No. 1 fuse) 30 31 32 33

Dip switch Headlamp flasher switch Horn push

Fuse unit

34 Heated back light switch (if fitted) 35 36 37 40 41 42

50 Heated back light (if fitted) 51 Reverse light switch

52 Split brake test switch and warning light (if fitted) 53 Cigar lighter 54 Hazard warning flasher unit 55 Clock (Specia/ only) 56 Hazard warning lamp

11 RH dip headlamp 12 RH main headlamp

15 16 17 18

ON PAGES 64 AND 65

Interior light Radiator cooling fan thermostat Radiator cooling fan relay Horns RH door switch IH door switch

57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 70 74 72 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 82

Hazard warning switch Flasher unit Stop lamp switch Instrument voltage stabilizer RH tail lamp No charge warning lamp Oil pressure warning lamp Direction indicator switch RH stop lamp Fuel gauge Water temperature gauge Direction indicator warning lamp Panel lamp Main beam warning lamp Panel lamp LH tail jlamp RH number; plate illumination lamp LH number plate illumination lamp LH stop lamp Oil pressure switch Fuel gauge tank unit Water temperature transmitter “LH rear flasher lamp

83 LH reverse lamp ) 84 RH reverse lamp ) 85 RH rear flasher lamp

43 Boot light (Special only)

(Special only)

86 Printed circuit instrument panel

CABLE COLOUR N

Brown

P

U

Blue

G

R

Red

LG

Light Green

CODE W White

O

Orange

Y B_

K S_

Pink Slate

Yellow’ Black

When a cable has two colour code letters the first denotes the main colour and the second denotes the tracer colour.

64

Al

| |

z

i

je

hit *

—

i

Wiring diagram for 1500 Super (for key see page 63)

Wiring diagram for 1500 Special (for key see page 63)

66

KEY TO WIRING Wiper

DIAGRAMS

45 Split brake differential

motor

switch

(if fitted)

Starter solenoid relay (if fitted) Battery

46 Boot light switch (SS only) 47 Radiator cooling fan motor

Alternator RH sidelamp RH front flasher lamp LH front flasher lamp LH side lamp RH repeater flasher LH repeater flasher RH dip headlamp RH main headlamp LH dip headlamp

48 Fuse unit (no. 2 and No. 3 fuse—LH vehicles only) 49 Lighting switch 50 Heated back light (if fitted)

LH main

Heater

) 53 54 55 56

headlamp

(if fitted) Cigar lighter Hazard warning flasher unit Clock (SS only) Hazard warning lamp

57 Hazard warning switch washer

58 Flasher unit 59 Stop lamp switch

Starter solenoid Automatic

60 Instrument voltage stabilizer

transmission

safety

switch

(if

61

RH

tail lamp

fitted)

62 No charge warning

Ignition coil

63

Oil pressure

G4

Direction

65 66 67 6S 69

RH stop lamp Fuel gauge Water temperature gauge Direction tor warning lamp : Panel lamp

Combined

wiper

and washer

switch

Radio (if fitted) Line fuse for radio Fuse unit (No. 5 fuse) Starter motor |gnition/starter switch

indicator

70 Panel lamo

Distributor

71 Main beam werning 72 Panel lamo

1 fuse)

Horn

flasher

switch

push

Fuse

lamp

switch

;

lamp

73 Panel lamp

Dip switch Headlamp

lamp

warning

Line fuse

Fuse unit (No.

74 LH

tail lamp

75 BH

number

plate

illumination

lamo

unit

Heated back light switch Interior

Radiator Radiator

(if fitted)

light

cooling fan thermostat cooling fan relay

Horns

RH

door

switch

LH

door

switch

Boot light (SS only) Automatic fitted)

gear quadrant

Sta.

51 Reverse light switch (SS only) 52 Split brake test switch and warning light

if fitted)

motor

Electric windscreen Heater switch

4s

ON PAGES 67 AND 68

illumination

(if

CABLE

COLOUR

CODE

N

Brown

F

Purple

\N

Writ

Oo

Orange

L

Siue

G

&

Y

Yetlow

KR

Pink

R

Red

LG

Light

8

Black

SS

Green

67

Wiring diagram for 1750 Sport (for key see page 66)

68

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