Haynes Austin Maxi 1500/1750 Owners Workshop Manual 090055052X, 9780900550522

Citation preview

Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2023 with funding from Kahle/Austin Foundation

https://archive.org/details/austinmaxiownersOO0Ohayn

Austin Maxi 1500/1750 Owners

Workshop

Mlanual by J H Haynes Associate Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers

and B L Chalmers-Hunt TEng (CEI), AMIMI, AMIRTE, AMVBRA

Models covered:

Austin Maxi 1500. 1485 cc Austin Maxi 1750. 1748 cc Does not cover automatic versions or the Maxi HL

ISBN ©

0 900550

52 X

JH Haynes and Company Limited 1972

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying,

recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

Printed in England

(052- 8A/)

JH HAYNES AND COMPANY LIMITED SPARKFORD YEOVIL SOMERSET ENGLAND distributed in the USA by

HAYNES PUBLICATIONS INC. 9421 WINNETKA AVENUE CHATSWORTH LOS ANGELES CALIFORNIA 91311 USA

Acknowledgements Thanks are due to BLMC Limited for their assistance with technical material and certain illustrations and to Castrol Limited for lubrication details.

Invaluable assistance was given by Brian Horsfallfor help with the photography and by Stanley Randolph on sorting out

the text.

Whilst every care is taken to ensure that the information in this manual is correct, no liability can be accepted by the authors and publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from,

the information given.

Photographic captions and cross references The book is divided into twelve chapters.

Each chapter

is divided into numbered sections which are headed in bold type between horizontal lines. Each section consists of serially numbered paragraphs. There are two types of illustration: (1) Figures which are numbered according to Chapter and sequence of occurrence in

that chapter and having an individual caption to each figure. (2) Photographs which have a reference number in the bottom left handcorner, All photographs apply to the chapter in which they occur so that the reference figures pinpoint the pertinent section and paragraph numbers.

Procedures, once described inthe text, are not normally

repeated,

If it is necessary

to refer to another chapter the

reference will be givenin chapter number and section number

thus: Chapter 1/16, If it is considered necessary to refer to a particular paragraph in another chapter the reference is eg 'Chapter '1/6:5', Cross references given without use of the word 'Chaptor' apply to sections and/or paragraphs in the samechapter, eg, 'see Section 8' means also ‘in this Chapter’, When the left or right hand side of a car is mentioned it is as if one were looking in the forward direction of travel.

UNsny xe AW |]

uooTes

Introduction This is a manualfor the do-it-yourself minded MAXI motoring enthusiasts. It shows how to maintain these cars in first class condition, and howtocarry out repairs when components become worn or break. By doing all maintenance and repair work themselves owners will gain three ways: they will know the job has been done properly; they will have had the satisfaction of doing the job themselves; and they will have saved garage labour charges which, although quite fair bearing in mindthe high cost of capital equipment and skilled men, can be as high as £2 an hour. Regular and careful maintenance is essential if maximum reliability and minimum wear are to be achieved. The author has stripped, overhauled, and rebuilt all the major mechanical and electrical assemblies and most of the minor ones as well. Only through working in this way can solutions be found to the sort of problems facing private owners. Other hints and tips are also given which can only be obtained through practical experience. The step-by-step photographic strip and rebuild se— quences show how eachof the major components was removed, taken apart, and rebuilt. In conjunction with the text and exploded illustrations this should make all the work quite clear - even tothe novice who has never previously attempted

in very technical language, and tend toskip details of certain jobs which are common knowledge to garage mechanics, Owner's workshop manuals are different as they are intended

the more complex job. Although the MAXI range of cars are hardwearingand robust it is inevitable that their reliability and performance willdecrease as they become older. Repairs and general reconditioning will become necessary if the car is to remain roadworthy. Early models requiring attention are frequently bought by the more impecunious motorist who just cannot afford the repair prices charged in garages. It is in these cir-

functioning dynamo can frequently be repaired quite satis— factorily just by fitting new brushes. A further function of this manual is to show the owner how to examine malfunctioning parts; determine what is wrong; then how to make the repair. Although every care has been taken to ensure all the information in this manual is correct, bearing in mind current manufacturer's practice to make small alterations and de— sign changes without re-classifying the model, no liability can be accepted for damage, loss or injury caused by any errors in or omissions from the information given. Given the time, mechanical do-it-yourself aptitude, and a reasonable collectionof tools this manual will show the en-

cumstances that the manual will prove to be of maximum help, as itis the ONLY workshop manual written from practical ex-

perience especially for owners of cars covered in this manual (as opposed to service operators and garage proprietors). Manufacturers’ official manuals are usually splendid publications which contain a wealth of technical information. Because they are issued primarily to help the manufacturers! authorised dealers and distributors they tend to be written

primarily tohelp the owner,

and therefore contain details of

all sorts of jobs not normally found in official manuals. Owners who intend to do their own maintenance and repairs should havea reasonably comprehensive tool kit. Some jobs require special service tools, but in many instances it is possible to get round theiruse with a little care and ingenuity. For example a 33 inch diameter jubilee clip makes a most efficient and cheap piston ring compressor. Throughout this manual ingenious ways of avoiding the use of special equipment andtools are shown. In some cases the proper tool must be used. Where this is the case a description of the tool and its correct use is included, and details are given of where it can usually be borrowedor hired. When a component malfunctions garage repairs are becoming more and more a case of replacing the defective item with an exchange rebuilt unit. This is excellent practice when a component

is thoroughly

worn

out, but

it isa

waste of good money when overallthe component is only half worn, and requires the replacement of but a single small item to effect

a complete repair.

As anexample,

a non—

thusiastic owner how to maintain and repair his car really economically with minimum recourse to professional assistance and expensive tools and equipment.

Contents Chapter

1

Section

Engine

Page

Section

Page

Introduction

4

Lubrication chart

12

Routine maintenance

6

Ordering spare parts

14

Removal

22

Decarbonisation

47

Dismantling Examination and renovation

32 44

Reassembly Refitting:

48 57

2

Cooling system

Draining, flushing and filling 63 Water pump Radiator 63 Fan belt Thermostat 64 Anti-freeze re eae See

64 64 68

3

Fuel system and carburation

(© 80

Fuel pump Carburettor a

70 72

Choke control Fuel tank ee ee

4

84 84 85

Ignition timing Spark plugs Fault diagnosis

SS 5

Ignition system

a

a

a

Clutch and actuating mechanism

se 6

Transmission

ee 7

Drive shaft and universal joints

Contact breaker points Condenser Distributor

ee

oe

Bleeding Slave cylinder Master cylinder ae

9

Final drive

Braking system

11

12

Electrical system

Suspension and steering

Bodywork and underframe

TN

102 104

Rod gear change Remote control en) Ee

Hub and drive shaft Outer universal joint

130 130

Inner universal joint Constant velocity joint gaiter

a

a

Differential unit - removal & refitting

136

Bleeding

ee

a

ee

86 87 88

96 98 100 iti 124 134 134

oe

Differential unit - dismantling & reassembly

140

142

Master cylinder

148

‘

143

Vacuum servo unit

150

Rear brake wheel cylinder Front disc brake

144 146

Girling 'super-vac' Pressure reducing valve

152 154

Battery Dynamo

162 163

Flasher unit Windscreen wiper

176 176

Starter motor Regulator

168 174

Headlight units Wiring diagrams

180 188

Drum brake shoes

10

|

Crankshaft primary gear Cable gear change

a

eee

94 Clutch removal 94 Clutch overhaul 94 Faults - diagnosis and cure errr a ee

a a ar 8

ee

re

Front hubs

200

Reaction lever assembly

203

Rear hubs Suspension arms

200 202

Displacer unit Steering gear

204 210

Maintenance

213

Windscreen glass

220

Repairs Doors

214 214

Tailgate Heater unit

222 226

Index

232

Metric

conversion

tables

236

Routine maintenance The maintenance instructions listed are basically those recommended by the manufacturer, They are supplemented

by additional maintenance tasks proven to be necessary, The additional tasks are indicated by an asterisk and are primarily of a preventative nature in that they will assist in eliminating the unexpected failure of a component due to fair wear

and tear,

When a new car is delivered the complete

engine/trans-

mission unit contains sufficient running-in oilfor the runningin period, Providing the level is maintained between the low and high marks on the dipstick during this period,

is unnecessary,

At the first ''Free Service",

topping up

the running-

in oil is drained and the sump replenished to the level of the

high mark on the dipstick,

FIG, No. Description i Dipstick

FIG. No. Description 1 Manifold

2. LUCAS

No,

2

BATTERY FILLER No. Description 2 Separator guards

1 LOCATION

OF OIL LEVEL

DIPSTICK AND DRAIN PLUG

Description

No. Description 3 Oil filler cap

Magnetic drain plug

No.

FIG, Description

1

Electrolyte level

2 3

Vent cover Separator plates

FIG,

Fig. 4 Wheel trim removal No.

1

3 LUCAS

'PACEMAKER' FILLER No. Description 4 Trough 5 6

5 CARBURETTOR

Description

Damper assembly

No.

2

Rectangular filler slots Cover seating grooves

DASHPOT

OIL LEVEL

Description

Correct oil level

Routine Maintenance

8

oe eed Weekly,

before a long journey or every 250 miles

(400 Km)

1 Remove the dipstick and check the engine/transmission unit oil level which should be up to the 'MAX' mark. Top up the oil with Castrol GTX. On no account allow the oil to fall below the 'MIN' mark on the dipstick, The distance between the ‘MAX! and 'MIN' marks corresponds to approximately 2

pints. (Fig. 1). 2 Check the tyre pressures with an accurate gauge and adjust as necessary. As a safety precaution make sure that the tyre walls and treads are free of damage, Remember that the tyre tread should have a minimum of 1 millimetre depth across three quarters of the total width.

38 Check the battery electrolyte level and top up as necessary with distilled water, Make sure that the top of the battery is always kept cleanandfree of moisture, (Figs 2 and 3). 4 Refillthe windscreen washer bottle with soft water. Add an antifreeze satchet in cold weather to prevent freezing (do not use ordinary antifreeze), Check that the jets operate correctly. 5 Remove the wheel trims and check all wheel nuts for tightness but take care not to overtighten, (Fig. 4).

Every 6000 miles

i

(10000 Km) or 6 months

ee Oe

eee

ees

Complete the service items in the 3000 miles service check as applicable plus: Remove the engine top cover and check the valve clear1 Full information will be found in Chapter 1, Section ances,

54, 2 The fan belt adjustment must be tight enough to drive the dynamo without overloading the bearings, including the water pump bearings, The method of adjusting is described in Chapter 2, Section 12, It is to be correct when it can be pressed in 3 inch point of its longest run ~ from the dynamo to the

the fan belt considered at the mid crankshaft

pulley. os Check the operation of the automatic advance /retard system by first releasing the two distributor cap retaining

clips and lifting off the distributor cap, Hold the rotor arm (1) Fig, 8 between the finger and thumb and turn in the normal direction of rotation (Shown by arrow on rotor arm), Release the rotor arm and if all is well it should return to its original position without any signs of binding or sticking. Using a screwdriver check that the moving plate (2) is free to move,

4 Spring back the two clips and remove the distributor cap, Lift off the rotor arm, Apply a few drops of thin oil over the

screw inthe centre of the cam spindle and on the moving conEvery 3000 miles

tact breaker pivot. Apply a smear of grease to the cam surface, Removeany excess oil or grease with a clean rag,

(5000 Km) or 3 months

Apply afew drops of oil through the hole in the contact breaker Complete the service items in the weekly service check plus: 1 Wipe the top of the carburettor dashpot and unscrew the damper. Check the level of oilusing the damper as a dipstick, The level should be up to 4 inch above the top of the hollow pistonrod, Topupas necessary using CastrolGTX. (Fig. 5).

2 Check the level of coolant in the engine cooling system when the unit is cold, Remove the expansion tankpressure cap and check the level of coolant which should be at least up to the centre of the mounting strap. Top up as necessary with soft rain water, In winter an antifreeze solution must be used, It is very important that the radiator filler cap is

not removed whilst the cooling system is hot, (Fig. 6). 8 Wipe the top of the clutch and brake master cylinder reservoirs, unscrew the caps and top up with Castrol Girling Brake Fluid. Take care not to spill any hydraulic fluid on the paintwork as it acts as a solvent. The correct level is when the fluid coincides with the fluid level line on the outside of the reservoirs, (Fig. 7). 4 Check the amount of brake pedal travel and if excessive adjust the rear brakes as described in Chapter 9, Section 2, 5 Carefully examine allhydraulic pipes andunionsfor signs of leakage and flexible hoses for signs of perishing, Make sure that the front brake flexible hoses are not in contact with any body or mechanical component when the steering is turned on both full locks, 6 Check the headlight alignment as described in Chapter 10, Section 38,

*7 Check the rubber gaiters on the and steering assembly for leakage or cordingly, *8 Checkthe operationof the lights, and wipers, and warning lights fitting faults as applicable, *9

Lubricate

all locks,

away any excess oil,

hinges

and

constant velocity joints damage and rectify acheater, screen washer new bulbs or correcting striker

plates,

Wipe

base plate to lubricate the automatictiming control, (Fig. 9). 5 Clean and adjust the distributor contact breaker points as described in Chapter 4, Sections 3 and 2, 6 Remove the spark described in Chapter 4, 7 To ensure correct clearance of 0,052 in,

plugs and inspect and clean them as Section 11. clutch operation there should be a

between the clutch release lever (4) Fig, 10 and its return stop (2), Pull on the clutch release lever to overcome the action of the spring and check the clearance using feeler gauges, If adjustment is necessary,

slacken the locknut (1) and with an open ended spanner turn the squared shank of the stop (2) in an anticlockwise direction to decrease the clearance, or clockwise direction to increase the clearance, Retighten the locknut, 8 Thefront wheel alignment should be checked at the local BLMC garage, 9 RefertoChapter 9, Section 10 and check the wear of the disc brake pads,

10 Working underneath the car, check the tightness of all nuts, bolts and fixing with particular reference to steering and suspension mountings,

11 Refer to Chapter 10, Section 3, and check the specific gravity of the battery electrolyte, 12 Run the engine until it is hot and then place a container of at least 10 pints capacity under the engine/transmission unit drain plug located as shown in Fig, 1, Unscrew and remove the drain plug and allow the oil to drain out for at least 10 minutes, Whilst this is being done change the oil filter

as described in the next service operation,

oilfiller capin petrolandshake dry.

Clean the

Refill the engine /trans-

mission unit with 8$ pints of Castrol GTX and clean off any oil which may have been accidentally spilt over the engine or its components, Runthe engine and check the oil level, The interval between oil changes should be reduced in very hot or dusty conditions or during cool weather with much slow or

stop/start driving,

FIG,

6 ENGINE COOLANT

No. Description 1 Expansion tank pressure

cap

LEVEL

CHECK

FIG,

No. Description 2 Expansion tank

3

No.

1 2

Radiator filler cap

7 CLUTCH

AND BRAKE

Description

Brake master cylinder Clutch master cylinder

\

MASTER

No.

4

|

3

CYLINDER

Vent hole

ie

ane

ey | Ox

2\ Q\

ONG,

© AVS

SAT

Z

LOCATION

Description

AR

Wy

4

Cn

FIG. No.

1

8 CHECKING

OPERATION OF AUTOMATIC RETARD MECHANISM

Description

ADVANCE

FIG. 9 DISTRIBUTOR LUBRICATION POINTS No. Description No. Description 1 Cam lobes cation aperture 2 Pivot post 4 Cam spindle and centre screw 3 Centrifugal device lubri-

AND

No. Description 2 Moving base plate

Rotor arm

Wn

llitu

neti,

tilt,

“ON

Bur oq

OT yeysueg jexo01ds-indes

¢

“ON

ONIWIL NIVHO uoI}dI10s90q

yyeyswmeD yeyooids

“DId ZE1

ST

on

y » “TTS

OUIBUTJUOIJ

IOAOD

JOJeVIE HUT] UeH JOAId310g

uorjdI108s90q

UANOISNGL TVAOWHY “ON

[T ZT

uoljd1t19seq

19uo01suey, itojdepe JeUOIsUuaT,

“ON

ET

ureyo eping

Wosequoljd

roj8nl[py 10; iyst1 puvy

ay,

j(0q

10}depe

¢

g/t UsTTy Aoy 9Your

I9A00

uoTj}d{1908eq

pwey

IJopur[AD

“ON

T Zursnoy [eoymATT ZIEAOD [ooyMATLT Bupyive ¢

Chapter 1 /Engine

38

17

Chain guides - removal

1

Refer

to Chapter

2/5:1 to 7 inclusive,

and

radiator and cowling.

remove

the

‘

2 Refer to Section 16:3 to 7 inclusive, and remove the fan belt, fan blades, radiator lower support bracket and crank-

shaft pulley, 3

Py

Unscrew

and

remove

the two bolts and spring washers

securing the timing cover to the flywheel housing. £ Pullthe breather hose from the radiator end of the camshaft cover. 5 Unscrewthe six camshaft cover securing bolts in a diagonalandprogressive manner, Liftaway the camshaft cover and its gasket.

6

Turn the crankshaft until the timing marks 1/4 TDC on

the flywheel are in alignment with number 1 cylinder on the commencement of the firing stroke. 7 Carefully check that the camshaft sprocket and adjoining bearing boss marks aligncorrectly and, if necessary, turn the crankshaft inthe normal direction of rotation until the marks do align, 8

Undo

and

remove

the

chain

tensioner

adaptor bolt and

then, using a 1/8 inchAllenkey placed through the bolt adaptor, turnthe tensioner plunger in a clockwise direction to retract the tensioner slipper from the chain,

9 Undo and remove the bolt and spring washer securing the camshaft sprocket to the camshaft and detach the sprocket from the camshaft,

10 Undoand remove the dowel bolt and spring washer from the lower end of the fixed guide. 11 Undoand remove the two guide upper retaining bolts and spring washers,

12

The

fixed guide (tensioner side) may now be lifted away

from the engine. 13 Carefully detach the lower end of the adjustable guide from the eccentric adjuster, turn the guide through 90° and lift it from the engine.

we

ee

ee

ee

eee

18 Distributor and fuel pump drive shaft - removal a a eae ee UL For this operation it is necessary unit from the car, FIG,

1:13

TIMING CHAIN GUIDE REMOVAL

Description

Flywheel housingtimingcover

No,

Description

8

LH guide RH guide

Breather hose

9

Cylinder head cover

10 Guide retaining bolts

Tensioner adaptor bolt

11

1/8 inch Allen key Camshaft sprocket Dowel bolt for LH guide

12 RH guide

LH guide

13 Dowel bolt for LH guide

14 Flywheel mark

2

Refer

to remove

the power

to Chapter 6/4 and separate the engine from the

transmission

unit.

3 Refer to Section 15:4 to 11 inclusive and remove the camshaft and crankshaft sprocket. 4 the

Note the position of the distributor drive and the slot at 2 o'clock position with the large lobe uppermost (photo),

5 The distributor drive gear may now be withdrawn from the crankshaft, Note that the drive gear shaft will turn

through approximately

90° as the gear

is withdrawn,

Lift

out the drive shaft and thrust washer.

eee EE 19

Piston,

eee

connecting rod and big end bearing - removal

———— ee eS

ee

eee

Unlike the conventional engine it is not possible to remove the pistons or connecting rods whilst the engine is still in the car as it is necessary first to remove the flywheel housing and primary drive gear cover and then separate the transmission unit as described in Chapter 6/4.

as follows: 1

Undo

Then proceed

the big end nuts and place to one Side in the order

in which they were removed,

FIG, No.

1:14

Description

Cylinder head cover securing bolts Flywheel housing Camshaft sprocket securing bolt

DISTRIBUTOR No. 4

5 6 7 8

AND FUEL PUMP

Description

Cylinder head cover Flywheel marks Tensioner

adaptor bolt

1A inch Allen key Camshaft

sprocket

DRIVE SHAFT No. 9 10 11 12

REMOVAL

AND REFITTING

Description Front oil seal Oil thrower Crankshaft sprocket Position of offset before meshing gears

No. Description 13 Position of offset after meshing gears 14 Distributor and fuel pump drive shaft 15 Thrust washer

Chapter 1 /Engine

3

2 Remove the big end caps, taking care to keep them in the rightorder and the correct way round, Also ensure that the shell bearings are kept with their correct connecting rods and caps unless they are to be renewed, Normally, the numbers 1 - 4 are stamped on adjacent sides of the big end caps

and connecting rods, indicating which cap fits on which rod and which way roundthe capfits, (See Fig. 1.15). If no numbers or lines canbe found, then with a scriber or file scratch mating marks across the joint from the rod to the cap. One line for connecting rod No. 1, two for connecting rod No. 2 andso on, This will ensure that there is no confusion later. It is most important that the caps go back in the correct positions on the connecting rodsfrom which they were removed, 3 If the big end caps are difficult to remove, they may be

gently tapped with a soft hammer. 4

To

remove

the shell bearings,

press the bearing oppo-

site the groove in both the connecting rod and its caps, bearings will slide out easily. 5

Withdraw

the

pistons

and

and the

connecting rods upwards

and

ensure they are kept in the correct order for replacement in the same bore.

20

Gudgeon pin - removal

1 Apressfit gudgeon pin is used and a special BLMC tool No. 18G1150 with adaptors 18G1150C is required to remove

and replace it. The tool is shown in Fig. 1:16 and must be used in the manner described in the following paragraphs: 2 Securely hold the hexagonal body ina firm vice and screw back the large nut until it is flush with the end of the main centre screw. Well lubricate the screw and large nut as they have to withstand high loading. Now push the centre screw in until the nut touches the thrust race. 3 Fit the adaptor number 18G1150C onto the main centre screw with the piston ring cut away positioned uppermost, Then slide the parallel sleeve with the groove end first onto the centre screw,

4

Fit the piston with the

the adaptor,

'Front'

on the centre screw.

or

'4A'

mark towards

Thisisimportant

because

the gudgeon pin bore is offset and irreparable damage will result if fitted the wrong way round, Next fit the remover/replacer bush on the centre screw with the flange end towards the gudgeon pin, 5 Screw the stop nut onto the main centre screw and adjust it until approximately 1/32 inch end play (A' in Fig. 1:16)exists, and lock the stop nut securely with the lock screws, Now check that the remover/replacer bushand parallel sleeve

are positioned correctly in the bore on both sides on the piston, Also and slide face of the 6 Screw

check that the curved face of the adaptor is clean the piston onto the tool so it fits into the curved adaptor with the piston rings over the cut away. the large nut up to the thrust race and, holding the

lock screw,

turn the large nut with a ring spanner or long

socket until the gudgeon pin is withdrawn from the piston,

a 21 Piston ring - removal ee ——E—————— FIG, oO.

1:15

PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD ASSEMBLY

Description Gudgeon pin Piston identification marks Piston rings

Roney Connecting rod and cap/bore identification number,

No, Description 5 Big end nut 6 Big end cap 7 Piston 8 Piston ring compression,

1

To remove

the piston rings,

eee

ee

slide them carefully over

the topof the piston, taking care not to scratch the aluminium alloy; never slide them off the bottom of the piston skirt. It

is very easy to break the cast iron piston rings if they are pulled off roughly, so this operation should be done with extreme care. It is helpful to make use of an old 0, 020 inch feeler gauge.

41

FIG, No,

Description

1

Main bearing cap bolt

2 3

Oil thrower Front oil seal

1:17

CRANKSHAFT

AND MAIN BEARING ASSEMBLIES

No. Description 4 Crankshaft sprocket 5 Distributor drive gear 6 Primary gearandthrustwasher

No, Description 7 Main bearing cap and crankcase web mating marks 8 Big end bearing caps

No, Description 9 Main bearing cap

10 11

Crankshaft Crankshaft thrust washers

42

Chapter 1/ Engine

2 Lift one end of the piston ring to be removed out of its groove and insert under it the end of the feeler gauge.

6 Oil passes up through a drilling in the cylinder head to lubricate the overhead camshaft and valve assemblies, From

3

the top of the cylinder head, oil is able to pass back into the crankcase via the camshaft drive chain chest and from there

Turnthe feeler gauge slowly round the piston and, as the

ring comes out of its groove, apply slightly upward pressure so that it rests on the land above. It can then be eased off the piston withthe

feeler gauge

an empty groove being removed.

if it is any but the top piston ring that is

22

stopping it from

25

Flywheel and flywheel housing - removal

Full details of this operation are given in Chapter 6/4.

23

Crankshaft and main bearing - removal With the engine

re moved

from the car and separated

from the transmission, remove the camshaft drive chain and sprocket, Also remove the crankshaft sprocket, flywheel

and flywheel housing, big end bearings and pistons. It willalso be necessary to remove the distributor drive gear, the crankshaft primary gear and thrust washer. Removal of the crankshaft can be attempted only with the engine on the bench or a clean floor. 1 Undo. by one turn at a time the bolts which hold the five bearing caps, D Unscrew the bolts and remove them. Check that each bearing cap is markedas shown in Fig. 1.17, Ifnomarksare evident these should be made with a file or scriber, 3 Remove the mainbearing caps and the bottom half of each bearing shell, taking care to keep the bearing shells in the right caps,

4

Whenremoving the number 4 main bearing cap,

bottom

semi-circular

into the transmission casing for re-circulation,

slipping into

halves of the thrust washers,

lying on either side of the main bearing,

note the one half

Lay them with the

number 4 main bearing along the correct side. 5 Slightly rotate the crankshaft to free the upper halves of the bearing shells and thrust washers which can be extracted and placed over the correct bearing cap.

6 Remove the crankshaft by lifting it away from the crankcase,

Oil filter - removal and replacement

1 The fullflow oil filter is located at the front of the transmission casing in the vicinity of the fuel pump. . 2 It is removed by first unscrewing the centre bolt and withdrawing the complete filter assembly. 3 Remove the filter head from the transmission casing, 4 Remove and discard the element and then remove the circlip, Withdraw the centre bolt and lift out the pressure plate, rubber washer, steel washer and spring from the casing,

5 Remove the old sealing ring from the filter head and the old gasket located between the filter head and transmission casing,

6 Thoroughly wash all components in petrol and wipe dry with a clean non-fluffy rag. Make sure that the mating faces of the filter head and transmission casing are really clean, 7 Fit the centre bolt to the filter bowl and slide on the spring, steel washer and new rubber washer followed by the pressure plate. (photo). 8

Secure

the pressure

plate

in position

with

the

circlip

(photo). 9 Using a screwdriver, carefully ease a new sealing ring into the filter head by first fitting the ring into the groove at four equidistant points. Press it home a segment at a time (photo). 10 Do not insert the ring at just one point and work round the groove by pressing it home as, using this method, it is easy to stretch the ring and be left with a small loop of rubber which will not fit into the locating groove. 11 Insertanewoilfilter element into the filter bowl (photo), 12

Ifthe filter head centre sealis damagedor

perished,

ease

out the old and fit a new one (photo), 13 Fit the filter head over the centre bolt, making sure that filter bowl locates correctly on the rubber sealing ring in the

filter head (photo), 24

Lubricating system

- description

1 A forced feed system of lubrication is used so that oil circulates round the engine from the transmission unit below the cylinder block. The level of oil is indicated on the dipstick which is fitted to the front of the cylinder block, It is marked to indicate the maximum and minimum oil level (photo), 2 The level of oil ideally should not be above or below the MAX mark, Oil is replenished via the filler cap on the top of the camshaft cover. 3 Theoilpump, locatedin the transmission unit, draws oil from the supply in the transmission casing and passes it to a

full flow oil filter which is fitted with a renewable element, Tocontrolthe oilpressure,

anoilpressure relief valve is lo-

cated in the transmission unit under the filter head, 4 Oilpasses from the filter tothe main gallery, which runs the length of the cylinder block, and from there it is distributed by means of drillings to the various bearings, 5 Oilpassesfrom the main gallery to the big end and main crankshaft bearings, A small hole in each connecting rod lets a jet of oil lubricate the cylinder wall on each revolution,

14 Smear alittle grease onto the transmission casing filter head mating face and fit the new gasket noting that the oil filter face is marked (photo), 15

Refit

the

complete

filter

assembly

and secure with the

centre bolt (photo),

26

Ventilation air filter - removal and replacement

1

To

provide air for ventilating the engine, a filter is lo-

cated on the flywheel housing. 2 The filter element may be renewed by unscrewing the cover retaining screw and lifting off the cover and finally the filter element (photo). 3 Throw away the old element and place a new element onto thefilter body. Refit the cover and secure with the screw and plain washer,

ee

ee

eee

relief valve

27

Oil pressure

1

Theoilpressure

a relief valve is non-adjustable so, if its

\e

4

“Covi

Thy, "y

FIG, No,

1:18

OIL FILTER

Description Centre bolt Element

Centre bolt circlip Pressure plate, rubber and ee Pon steel washers and spring.

COMPONENT

PARTS

No. Description 5 Rubber washers and sealing ring 6 Gasket for filter head 7 Centre bolt sealing ring 8 Filter head

FIG,

No. 1 2

1:19

OIL PRESSURE

Description Relief valve Identification mark for posi-

No.

RELIEF

VALVE

Description tion of release hole.

Chapter 1 /Engine operation is suspect, a new assembly must be obtained and fitted. It is located under the oil filter head. 2 Refer to Section 25 and remove the oil filter and head

assembly. 3 Draw the oil pressure relief valve from its bore in the transmissioncase. Note the location of the release hole which

must point downwards 4

There

(photo),

is a line scribed on the face of the pressure

re-

lief valve to act as a guide for refitting. This is shown in 1nniees ale abe 5 Refitting is the reverse procedure to removal,

28

Oil pump

- removal and dismantling

To gain access to the oil pump remove the complete power unit and then separate the transmission unit from the engine. Full information on this operation will be found in

Chapter 6/4. Then proceed as follows: 1 Bendback the tab washer locking the baffle plate securingbolt inthe centre web of the transmission unit. Undo and remove the bolt, tab washer and baffle. 2 Unscrew the oil pump outlet connection which will be found under the oil filter head adjacent to the pressure relief

valve,

Althougha special tool is recommended

to remove

it with a mole wrench provided

it is possible

it is clamped

se-

curely to the large boss of the outlet connection. 3 Undo and remove the two bolts with spring and plain washers that secure the oil pump to the side of the transmission unit.

4

The

oil pump may now be lifted out of the transmission

unit. 5

Should

it be

necessary

it is necessary to remove 6

FIG, 1:20 No, Description 1 Transmission unit baffle

2 3

Pump outlet Pump securing bolts

OIL PUMP No.

4 5

REMOVAL Description

To

dismantle

the

to remove

the oil pump

pick up,

the fifth speed gear,

oil pump,

first

undo

and remove

the

three bolts and spring washers which secure the suction filter housing to the body. 7 Lift away the intake filter assembly. 8 The motor and shaftassembly and outer ring may now be withdrawn from the body. 9 Undo and remove the bolts and spring washers holding the two parts of the intake filter assembly together. Separate the two parts and lift away the strainer and joint washer.

Oil pump Oil pump outlet location

29 Chain tensioner - dismantling ee a With the tensioner removed from the engine as described

in Section 16, fit cylinder

and,

a

holding

the key clockwise plunger.

1/8 inch Allen key to its socket inthe the

slipper

and

plunger

eS tt ee 30

FIG, 1:21 PISTON RING WEAR MEASUREMENT No. No, Description Description 1 Ring gap measurement 2 Ring groove measurement

With

the

turn

ee

Engine - examination and renovation - general

pecs See EE 1

firmly,

to free the cylinder and spring from the

engine

stripped

ee

.

down and all parts thoroughly

clean it is time to examine everything for wear or damage, The items in Sections 31 to 41 following should be checked and where necessary renewed or renovated, 2 In any border line case it is always best to decide in favour ofanew part, Even if a part may still be serviceable its life will have been reduced by wear and the degree of trouble needed to replace it in the future must be taken into consideration,

3

Thisisarelative situation; it depends on whether a quick

Chapter 1 /Engine en

‘survival’ job 1s being done or the car as a whole is being regarded as having many thousands of miles of useful and economical life remaining.

31

Crankshaft

- examination and renovation

1 Lookat the main bearing journals and the crankpins. If there are any scratches or score marks then the shaft will need regrinding. Such conditions will nearly always be accompanied by similar deterioration on the matching bearing shells. 2 Each bearing journal should also be round and can be checked witha micrometer or caliper gauge around the periphery at several points. If there is more than 0, 001 inch of

ovality regrinding is necessary. 3 A BLMC garage or motor engineering specialist will be able to decide to what extent regrinding is necessary and supply the special undersize

45 en

bearings to match,

4 Before taking the crankshaft for regrinding, check the cylinder bores and pistons, as it may be advantageous to have the whole unit done together.

3

If it is possible to obtain an internal micrometer,

mea-

sure the bore in the thrust plane below the lip and again at the bottom of the cylinder bore in the same plane. If the difference is more than 0. 003 inch then a rebore is necessary. Similarly a difference of 0.003 inch or more across the bore diameter is a sign of ovality calling for a rebore. 4 Anybore which is significantly scratched or scored will needreboring. This symptom usually indicates that the piston or rings are also damaged in that cylinder, In the event of any one cylinder being in need of reboring, it will still be necessary for all four to be bored and fitted with new oversize pistons and rings. Your BLMC garage or local motor engineering specialist will be able to rebore and obtain the necessary matched pistons. If the crankshaft is undergoing regrinding, it is a good idea to let the same firm renovate and reassemble the crankshaft and pistons to the cylinder block, A reputable firm normally gives a guarantee for such work. In cases where engines have been rebored already to their maximum, new cylinder liners are available which may be fitted, In such cases the same reboring processes have to be followed and the services of a specialist engineering firm are required.

EEE ee ——————————————_———————e—e—e—eEeE—————————

Crankshaft (main) bearings and big end (connecting rod) 32 bearings - examination and renovation

pe a

sg

a

ee

Withcareful servicing and regular oil and filter changes, 1 bearings will last for a very long time but they can still fail for With big end bearings, the indication of unforseen reasons, failure isa regular rythmic loud knocking from the crankcase, The frequency depends onengine speed and is particularly noticeable when the engine is under load, This sympton is accompanied by a fall inoilpressure, although this is not noticeMain able unless an accurate oil pressure gauge is fitted. bearing failure is usually indicatedby serious vibration, particularly at higher engine revolutions, accompaniedby a more

significant drop in oil pressure and a 'rumbling' noise, 2

Bearing

shells

in good condition have bearing surfaces

withasmooth, even matt silver/grey colour all over. Worn bearings will show patches of a different colour when the Damaged bearing metal has worn and exposed the underlay. bearings will be pitted or scored, Always fit new shells. Their costisrelatively low. Ifthe crankshaft is in good condition it is merely a question of obtaining another set of standard size shells, A reground crankshaft will need new bearing shells as a matter of course.

a 33. Cylinder bores - examination and renovation ee Anew cylinder bore is perfectly round and the walls 1 parallelthroughout its length, The action of the piston tends to to wear the walls at right angles to the gudgeon pin due side thrust.

This wear takes place principally on that section

of the cylinder swept by the piston rings. reIt is possible to get an indication of bore wear by 2 With moving the cylinder head with the engine still in the car.

seen the piston down in the bore, first signs of wear can be piston top the where bore the of top the below just felt and If there is ring reaches, and there will be a noticeable lip. bore wear that expect to e sonabl rea itis no lip evident, e oil is not severe and any lack of compression or excessiv

consumption is due to either worn pistons, valves or guides,

34

Pistons and piston rings - examination and renovation

1

Worn

ee

or broken piston rings,

pistons

and

rings

can

usually be diagnosed when

the symptoms of excessive oil consumption and low compres-

sion occur and are sometimes, though not always, associated with worn cylinder bores. Compression testers that fit into the spark plug holes are available and these can indicate where

low compression is occuring, Wear usually accelerates the more itis left, so when the symptoms occur early action can possibly save 2

the expense

of a rebore.

Another symptom of pistonwear is piston slap - a knock-

ing noise from the crankcase not to be confused with big end bearing failure. It can be heard clearly at low engine speed when there is no load (idling for example) and is much less audible when the engine speed increases, Pistonwear usually oecurs inthe skirt or lower end of the piston and is indicated

by vertical streaks in the worn area which is always on the thrust side, It can be seen where the skirt thickness is different,

3 Piston ring wear can be checked by first removing the rings from the pistons as described in Section 21. Then place the rings in the cylinder bores from the top, pushing them down about 13 inches with the head of a piston (from which the rings have beenremoved) so that they rest squarely inthe cylinder bore. Thenmeasure the gap at the ends of the ring with a feeler gauge. If it exceeds 0.022 inch for the compression rings or 0.045 inch for the lower oil control ring, then they need renewal,

4 The grooves in which the rings locate in the piston can also become enlarged in use. The clearance between ring and piston, each ring.

in the groove,

should not exceed 0, 035 inch for

5 However, itisrare that a piston is only worn in the ring grooves, and the need to replace them for this fault alone is hardly

ever

encountered,

When

ever pistons are renewed,

the weight of the four piston/connecting rod assemblies should be kept within the limit variation of 8 grms, to maintain correct engine balance.

Chapter 1 /Engine

46

35 Connecting rods and gudgeon pins - examination and renovation

1 Gudgeon pins are a tight fit in the little end of the connectingrods, Neither of these would normally need replacement unless the pistons are being changed, in which case the new pistons would automatically be supplied with new gudgeon pins,

.

2 Connecting rods are not subject to wear but, in extreme circumstances suchas engine seizure, they could be distorted, Such

conditions

may

be visually

apparent,

but where

doubt

exists they should be changed, The bearing caps should also be examined for indications of filing down which may have been attempted in the mistaken idea that bearing slackness could be remedied in this way. If there are such signs then the connecting rods should be replaced,

36

Camshaft

and

camshaft bearings - examination and re-

novation

1 The camshaft itself should show no sign of wear, but if very slight score marks on the cams are noticed, they can be removed by very gentle rubbing down with very fine emery cloth or an oil stone. The greatest care should be taken to keep the cam

2 and,

profiles smooth,

Carefully examine the camshaft bearing surfaces for wear if evident,

the camshaft

must be renewed.

3 Check the camshaft fit in the cast aluminium housing and, if side movement is evident, a new housing must be obtained, The camshaft runs directly in the aluminium housing and does not have white metal bushes,

FIG, 1:22 VALVE SEAT DIMENSIONS INLET (A) C D E_

Maximum radius .010 in. (.25 mm) 2,175 in, (55,25 mm) to 2,174 in. (55.23 mm) Included angle 50°

F

450

G H J

1,395 in, (35.44 mm) to1.405 in. (35.69 mm) 1,498 in, (38.05 mm) to 1.501 in. (38.13 mm) Blend insert to throat

C

Maximum

37

Tappets

1 The little shims found inside the tappet bucket must be kept with the relative tappet and not interchanged, 2; The faces of the tappets which bear on the camshaft lobes should show no signs of pitting, scoring, fracturing or other

formsofwear. They should not be a loose fit in the aluminium housing. Wear is normally encountered at very high mileages or in cases of neglected engine lubrication, Renew

D

2,175 in, (55,25 mm) to 2,174 in, (55,23 mm)

Pee

F

45°

J_ K L M

Blend insert to throat diameter 1,11 in, (28.19 mm) to1,13 in, (28.7 mm) 1,215 in, (30.86 mm) to 1, 218 in, (30,94 mm) 1, 3456 in. (33.20 mm) to 1. 3475 in, (34, 23 mm)

38

FLY WHEEL RING GEAR

Wai aanaass dsgesdaerres Mit

\e

we

274099, sas

Pattess ty aie

es MY

Eh

my tal!

ee er

Alternative method of heating starter ring gear,

ee

ee

Valves and valve seats - examination and renovation = Se ee ee ee 1 With the valves removed from the cylinder head, examine the heads for signs’of cracking, burning away and pitting of the edges where they seat inthe ports, The seats of the valves in the cylinder head should also be examined for the same Signs, Usually itis the valve that deteriorates first, but if a bad valve is not rectified the seat will suffer and this is more difficult to repair,

2 Provided there are no obvious signs of serious pitting, the valve should be ground into its seat. This may be done by placing a smear of carborundum paste on the edge of the valve and usinga suction type valve holder, grinding the valve in situ. Use a semi rotary action; rotating the handle of the valve holder between the hands and lifting it occasionally to re-distribute paste (photo).

Fig. 1:23

and renovation

the tappets or housing as necessary,

EXHAUST (B) radius .010 in, (.25 mm)

Reese aad

- examination

the traces

of paste.

Start witha coarse

3 Assoonasa matt grey unbroken line appears on both the valve and seat, the valve is 'ground in', All traces of carbon

Chapter 1 /Engine should also be cleaned from the head and neck of the valve stem, A wire brush mounted in a power drill is a quick and effective way of doing this. 4 Ifthe valve requires renewal, it should be ground into the seat in the same way as the old valve. 5 Another form of valye wear can occur on the stem where itruns in the guide in the cylinder head, This can be detectedby trying to rock the valve from side to side, If there is any movement atall, itis an indication that the valve stem or guide is worn, Check the stem first with a micrometer at points along and around its length, and if they are not within the specified size new valves will probably

solve the problem.

If the guides are worn however, they will need reboring for oversize valves or for fitting guide inserts, The valve seats will also need recutting to ensure they are concentric with the stems. This work should be given to your local BLMC garage or engineering works, 6

When

valve

replacement,

seats

are

badly

burnt

inserts may be fitted -or

or pitted,

replaced

requiring

if previously

fitted - and once again this is a specialist task to be carried out by a suitable engineering firm. 7 Whenall valve grinding is completed, it is essential that every trace of grinding paste is removed from the valves and ports in the cylinder head, This should be done by thorough washing in petrol or paraffin and blowing out with a jet of air. If particles

of carborundum

the

this would cause havoc with bearings or cylinder

engine

paste

should work their way into

walls,

39 Crankshaft and camshaft ation and renovation,

1

Carefully

examine

sprockets

and chain - examin-

works may havea

suitable oven in which the ring gear can be

heated, The normal domestic oven will only give a maximum temperature of about 250°C, except for the latest self cleaning type which will give a higher temperature. With the former it may just be possible to fit the ring gear with it at this temperature, butit is unlikely. No great force should have tobe used, See alternative method of heating in Fig. 1. 23.

41

Oil pump

1

Thoroughly

then

check

- examination clean

and renovation

all the component

parts in petrol and

the rotor end float and lobe clearance

in the fol-

lowing manner: 2 Position the rotor and outer ring in the pump body and place the straight edge of a steel rule across the joint face of the

pump.

Measure

the gap

between

the bottom

of the

straight edge and the top of the rotor and outer ring as shown in Fig. 1.25 (A). If the measurement exceeds 0.005 inch (outer ring) and 0, 0055 inch (inner rotor) a new pump must be obtained as no individual parts are obtainable. 3 Measure the gaps between the peaks of the

peaks ment

lobes and If the measure-

of the outer ring with feeler gauges. exceeds

0.0035

inch

a new

pump

(Fig. 1.25 (B)). 4 Measure the clearance

between

pump

0.011

body

and if it exceeds

must be obtained,

the outer

inch a new

ring and the pump

must be

obtained (Fig. 1.25 (C)). 5 Ifallpartsare satisfactory, assembly is the reverse sequence to dismantling as described in Section 28, Always make sure the strainer is clean and use a new joint washer between the two halves of the strainer body.

the teeth on both the crankshaft and

camshaft sprockets for wear. Each tooth forms an inverted V withthe gear wheel periphery and if worn, the side of each

tooth under tension will be slightly concave in shape when compared withthe other side ofthetooth. If any sign of wear is present,

47

the sprockets

must be renewed.

42

Cylinder head - decarbonisation

1 This operation can be carried out with the engine either in or out of the car, With the cylinder head off, carefully

2 Examine the links of the chain for side slackness and renew the chainif any slackness is noticeable when compared

remove, with a wire brush and blunt scraper, all traces of carbon deposits from the combustion spaces and the ports.

with

The

a new

chain,

It is a sensible prevaution to renew

the

chainat about 30, 000 miles and at a lesser mileage if the engine is strippeddownfor major overhaul, The actual rollers ona very badly worn chain may be slightly grooved.

40

Flywheel starter ring - examination and renovation

1 If the teeth on the flywheel starter ring gear are badly worn, or if some are missing, then it will be necessary to remove the ring, This is achieved by splitting the old ring with a cold chisel. The greatest care must be taken not to damage the flywheel during this process. 2 To fit a new ring gear, heat it gently and evenly with an oxy-acetylene flame until a temperature of approximately 350°C isreached. This is indicated by a light metallic surfacecolour.

Withthe

ring gear at this temperature,

fit it to

the flywheel with the front of the teeth furthermost from the clutch mounting face. The ring gear should be either pressed or lightly tapped onto its register and left to cool naturally when the contraction of the metal on cooling will ensure that

it is a secure

and

permanent fit.

Great care

must be

taken not to overheat the ring gear as if this happens the temper of the ring will be lost, 3 Alternatively the local BLMC garage or engineering

valve

stems

and

valve guides should also be free from

any carbon deposits, Wash the combustion spaces and ports down with petroland scrape the cylinder head surface free of

any foreign matter with the side of a steel rule or a similar article. Take care not to scratch the surfaces, 2 Clean the pistons and top of the cylinder bores, If the pistons are still in the cylinder bores, it is essential that

great care is taken to ensure that no carbon gets into the bores as this could scratch the cylinder walls or cause damage tothe piston and rings. To ensure that this does not happen first turn the crankshaft so that two of the pistons are

atthe topofthebores, bores,

or

seal

them

Placecleannon-fluffy rag into the two off with paper and masking tape.

The

water andoil ways should also be covered with a small piece of masking

tape

to prevent particles of carbon entering the

cooling system and damaging the water pump, or entering the lubrication system and causing damage to a bearing surface. 3 Thereare two schools of thought as to how much carbon ought

to be

removed

from

the piston crown,

One is that a

ring of carbon shouldbe left around the edge of the piston and on the

cylinder

bore wall as an aid to keeping oil consump-

tionlow. Theother is to remove all traces of carbon during decarbonisation, and leave everything clean, 4

If all traces of carbon are to be removed,

grease

into the gap between

press a little

the cylinder walls and the two

Chapter 1/Engine

48

pistons which are tobeworkedon,

fully scrape

away

Withablunt

scraper

the carbon from the piston crown,

care-

taking

care not to scratch the aluminium. Also scrape away the carbon from the surrounding lip of the cylinder wall. When all carbon has been removed, scrape away the grease which will now be contaminated with carbon particles, taking care not to press any into the bores, To assist prevention of carbon build up, the piston crown can be polished with a metal polish such as 'Brasso'. Remove the rags or masking tape

from

the other two cylinders and turn the crankshaft so that

the two pistons which were at the bottom are now at the top. Place non-fluffy rag into the other two bores, or sealthem with

paper and masking tape. Do not forget the waterways and oilways as well. Proceed as previously described. 5 If a ring of carbon is going to be left round the piston, this can be helped by inserting an old piston ring into the top of the bore

to rest on the piston and ensure

is notaccidently removed, of carbon in the cylinder

that carbon

Check that there are no particles bores. De-carbonisation is now

complete,

43

FIG. No.

1:24

COMPONENT

Description

PARTS No.

Filter housing bolts

OF OIL PUMP Description

lower halves.

Filter

5

Oil pump body

Gasket

6

Outer ring

7

Rotor and shaft assembly

eH nw Pw Filter

housing - upper and

Engine - reassembly

- general

1 To ensure maximum life with minimum trouble from a rebuilt engine, notonly must every part be correctly assembled, but everything must be spotlessly clean. All the oilways mustbe clear, locking washers and spring washers must always be fitted where indicated, and all bearings and other working surfaces must be thoroughly lubricated during assembly. Before assembly begins, renew any bolts or studs the threads of which are in any way damaged, and whenever possible use new spring washers,

2 Apartfrom your normaltools, a supply of non-fluffy rag, an oilcan filled with Castrol GTX (an empty washing up fluid bottle thoroughly cleaned and washed out will do just as well), a supply

of new

spring washers,

a set of new gaskets and a

torque wrench should be collected together.

44

Crankshaft - replacement

Ensure that the crankcase-is thoroughly clean and that all the oilways are clear. A thin drill is useful for clearing them

out.

If possible,

blow

them

out with compressed

air,

Treat the crankshaft in the same fashion and then inject engine oil into the crankshaft oilways. Commence work on rebuilding the engine by replacing the crankshaft and main bearings. it

Replace the main bearing shells by fitting the five upper

halves of the main bearing shells to their location crankcase, after wiping the location clean (photo),

2

in the

Note that on the back of each bearing is a tab which en-

gages in locating grooves in either the crankcase or the main : bearing cap housings (photo), 3

New bearings are coated with protective grease;

carefully

clean away all traces of this with paraffin, 4 With the five upper bearing shells securely in place, wipe the lower bearing cap housings and fit the five lower shell bearings to their caps ensuring that the right shell goes into the right cap, if the old bearings are being refitted (photo) 5

Fig. 1:25

Checking oil pump for wear

Wipe

the recesses

either

side of the number

4 main

bearing which locate the upper halves of the thrust washers,

6 Smear a little Castrol LM Grease onto the recesses for the upper thrust washers within the crankcase, Fit the thrust washers with their grooves facing outwards (photo),

50

Chapter 1/Engine

7 Fitthe innermost Woodruff key to the nose of the crankshaft (photo). 8 Generously lubricate the crankshaft journals and the upper and lower main bearing shells and carefully lower the

and correctly locate the piston support adaptor.

crankshaft

that

piston with Acheson's Colloids 'Oildag' graphite oil. 3 Fitthe connecting rod and piston, side marked ‘front' or ‘AV tothe tool, with the connecting rod entered on the sleeve

they locate properly on the dowels and that the mating numbers correspond (photo), 10 Apply a little Castrol LM Grease to the location for the thrust washers onnumber 4 main bearing cap, Fit the thrust

to the connecting rod, Next fit the remover/replacer bush flange end towards the gudgeon pin. 4 Serew the stop nut onto the centre screw and adjust the

into

round,

(photo).

9

the

Fit

washers

position,

main

with

Make

sure that it is the right way

caps

into

bearing

the grooves

the main bearing web,

position ensuring

facing outwards.

Refit the cap to

(photo).

2

Carefully

slide

the parallel

sleeve with the groove end

last onto the centre screw, up as far as the shoulder. Lubricate the gudgeon pin and its bores in the connecting rod and

upto the groove.

Fit the gudgeon pin into the piston bore up

nut to give a 1/32 inchendplay 'A'as shownin Fig. 1.16. the nut securely with the lock screw.

Lock

Ensure that the curved

11 Replace the long bolts that secure the main bearing caps and screw them up finger tight.

face of the adaptor is clean, and slide the piston on the tool sothatitfits into the curved face of the adaptor with the pis-

12 Test the crankshaft for freedom of rotation. Should it be very stiff to turn, or possess high spots, a most careful inspection must be made, preferably by a skilled mechanic with a micrometer to trace the cause of the trouble. It is very seldom that any trouble of this nature will be experienced when fitting the crankshaft. 13 Tighten the main bearing bolts, using a torque wrench setting of 70 lb ft, and recheck the crankshaft for freedom of rotation (photo). 14 The end float of the crankshaft may next be checked,

ton rings over the adaptor cut-away. 5 Serew the large nut up to the thrust race. Adjust the torque wrench to a setting of 12 lb ft. which will represent the minimum load for an acceptable fit. Use the torque

Usinga screwdriver as a lever at one of the crankshaft webs and mainbearing caps, far

as

possible

move

the crankshaft longitudinally as

in one direction,

Measure

the gap between

the side of number 4 journal and the thrust washer. Maximum endfloat should be between 0, 002 and 0, 003 inch and is adjustable by means of selective thrust washers (photo).

45

Distributor

and fuel pump

drive

shaft - refitting

1 Fit the thrust washer to the drive shaft (photo). 2 Turnthe crankshaft until the big end journals are parallel with the cylinder bores, This would be an equivalent TDC position for two of the four pistons. 3 Fit the drive shaft with the drive slot at the 10 o'clock position with the large lobe uppermost (photos).

4

Fitthe distributor drive gear.

It will be noticed that as

the teeth mesh, the shaft will turn anti-clockwise

through ap-

proximately 90° to bring the drive slot to the 2 o'clock position with the large lobe uppermost. (photos). 5 Refer to page 38, photo 18:4 which shows the correct position of the drive slot, 6 Insert the oil pump drive shaft into the distributor and fuel pump drive shaft (photo). 7 Asafurther check, temporarily refit the distributor and

make sure that the rotor armis set to fire number

1 cylinder.

wrench

previously

the fit of the gudgeon pin in the connecting rod is not within limits and the parts must be renewed. 7 Ensure that the piston pivots freely on the gudgeon pin

anditisfree to slide sideways. Should stiffness exist, wash the assembly in paraffin, lubricate the gudgeon pin with Acheson's Colloids 'Oildag' and recheck. Again if stiffness exists, dismantle the assembly and recheck for signs of ingrained dirt and positive damage,

47

Piston ring - replacement

1 Check thatthe piston ring grooves and oilways are thoroughly clean and unblocked, Piston rings must always be fitted over the head of the piston and never from the bottom,

2 The easiest method to use when fitting rings along 0, 020 inchfeeler gauge round the top of the place the rings one at a time, starting from the control ring. 3 Fit the bottom rail of the oil control ring to and positionit below the bottom

same

pistons

are

being

used,

then they must be

mated to the same connecting rod with the same gudgeon pin. If new pistons are being fitted it does not matter with which connecting rod they are used, but the gudgeon pin must be kept matched to its piston, Upon reference to Section 20 it will be seen that a special tool was required to remove the gudgeon pin from the piston and connecting rod assembly. This tool is now required to refit the gudgeon pin, 1 Unscrew the large nut and withdraw the centre screw from the body a few inches,

Well lubricate the screw thread

groove.

is to wrap piston and bottom oil

the piston

Refit the oil control

expander into the bottom groove and move the bottom oil controlring rail up into the bottom groove. Fit the top oil control rail into the bottom groove. Ensure that the ends of the expander

Set the gaps

of the rails

90° to each other, Refit the third and second

5 If the

and a ring spanner

tool, 6 Should the torque wrench not 'break' throughout the pull,

4

Piston and connecting rod - reassembly

the large nut,

1500 engines) or 0, 005 inch (for 1750 engines) from the piston skirt. Itis criticallyimportant that the flange is NOT allowedto contactthe piston, Finally withdraw the BLMC service

overlapping,

46

set on

onthe lock screw. Pull the gudgeon pin into the piston until the flange of the remover/replacer bush is 0. 016 inch (for

tapered

are butting,

but not

and the expander at

compression

rings

with the side marked TOP uppermost. NOTE: on 1750 engines the tapered compression ring is fitted into the second

groove only. 6

Fit the

chromium

plated

groove,

compression

ee eS 48

ring to the top

Se Se

Piston - replacement

Se = The pistons complete with connecting rods,

to the cylinder bores in the following sequence:

can be fitted

Chapter 1/Engine

51

1 Witha wad of clean non-fluffy rag wipe the cylinder bores clean, 72 The pistons, complete with connecting rods, are fitted to their bores from above, 3 Set the piston ring gaps so that the gaps are equidistant around the circumference of the piston, (photo),

4

Well

lubricate

the top of the piston and fit a ring com-

pressor or a jubilee clip of suitable diameter and shim

5

steel,

As each piston is inserted into its bore ensure that it is

—

oS

a4

the correct piston/connecting rod assembly for that particular bore; that the connecting rod is the right way round; and

that the front

of the piston

i,e., towards

the chain chest of the engine,

is towards the front of the bore

Lubricate the piston and bore well with Castrol GTX’ (photo). 6 The pistonwill slide into the bore only as far as the ring compressor. Gently tap the pistoninto the bore with a wooden or plastic hammer,

see e es e 49

Connecting rod to crankshaft

eee

ee

- refitting

1 Wipe cleanthe connecting rod half of the big end bearing cap and the underside of the shell bearing, and fit the shell bearing in position with its locating tongue engaged with the corresponding groove in the connecting rod.

2 Ifthe old bearings are nearly new and are being refitted then ensure they are replaced in their correct locations in the correct rods, 3 Generously lubricate the crankpin journals with Castrol GTX

and

turn

the crankshaft

so that the crankpin is in the

most advantageous position for the connecting rod to be drawn onto it. 4 Wipe clean the connecting rod bearing cap and back of the shell bearing and fit the shell bearing in position ensuring that the locating tongue at the back of the bearing engages with the locating groove

in the connecting rod cap.

5 Generously lubricate the shell bearing and offer up the connecting rod cap to the connecting rod (photo), 6 Fit new multi-sided nuts to the connecting rod bolts and tighten to a torque wrench setting of 30lb ft. (photo). 7 This photograph shows the big end cap and nuts in positionand the connecting rod and big end cap identification marks, 8

Repeat the above described procedures for the three re-

maining piston/connecting rod assemblies,

50 Timing chain, ting 1

crankshaft sprocketand tensioner

If the chain was removed for renewal,

FIG, No.

- refit-

fit the new chain

into the cylinder block, 2 Join the ends of the chain with a new link and position the link in the anvil of tool 18G1151 with the head of the pins

towards the press, (See Fig. 1:11). 3 Fitthe locating bridge with its legs centralising the link in the anvil. 4 Locate the plate of the link, chamfered side away from the chain on the bed of the press, 5 Press the plate fully onto the link pins, ensuring that the holes and pins are aligned, 6 Retractthepress, Fit the rivet adaptor into the head of the press and tighten the press fully down onto the pins us-

ing hand pressure only on the press tommy bar, 7 Check that a slight side play exists on the link with no tight spots,

Description

1:26

PISTON RINGS No,

Bottom rail of oil control ring Expander of oil control ring 5 Top rail of oil control ring 6 re Pwn Expander ends correctly but-

Description

ted together Second and third taper rings Top chromium plated ring

52 8

Chapter 1 /Engine Fit the second

woodruff

key to the crankshaft nose and

locate the crankshaft sprocket on the crankshaft with the tapered face outwards. Drift into its final position with a piece of tube.

9 Engage the chaininto mesh with the crankshaft sprocket, 10 Fitthe adjustable guide into the chain chest making sure that the lower end engages in the adjuster, The adjustable guide is shown in Fig, 1.11. 11

NOTE, If the adjuster has been removed,

check thatitis

correctly positioned so that the guide is not moved out of vertical alignment 12 Fit the fixed guide and lightly tighten the two securing bolts, spring and plain washers (photo). 13 This photo shows the adjuster screw with the locknut re-

compression leaks to develop, 3 Carefully lower the new cylinder head gasket into position, It is not possible to fit it the wrong way round (photo), 4 With the gasket in position carefully lower the cylinder head onto the cylinder block (photo). 5 With the cylinder head in position fit the cylinder head bolts and tighten finger tight. 6

53

moved,

all are

manner

Compress

the spring until the cylinder enters the plun-

in position

tighten in a diagonal and pro-

to a final torque wrench setting of 60lb ft.

Camshaft and tappets - refitting Unless

14 Tighten the adjuster screw until the guide is positioned vertically in the chain chamber and secure in position with the locknut (photo). 15 Fully tighten the two bolts securing the chain guides (photo). 16 Assemble the chain tensioner by inserting one end of the spring into the cylinder. 17

When

gressive (photo),

new

parts

have been fitted to the cylinder head,

camshaft, or camshaft housing, the chances are that the valve clearances will not have to be reset as the original shims will be refitted to the tappet buckets which will also be refitted in their original positions.

If new parts have been fitted, the camshaft and tappets must still be refitted and then the instructions followed as described in Section 54, 1 Smear the shims with petroleum jelly and then fit them

ger bore and ensure the peg in the plunger engages the heli-

into the tappets (photo).

cal slot. Insert and turn a 1/8 inch Allen key clockwise until the end of the cylinder is below the peg and the spring is

2 Lubricate the camshaft bearings and carefully slide the camshaft into the housing.

held compressed

3

18

Insert

(photo),

the tensioner

into the aperture at the front of the

chain chamber and engage it into the adaptor. Screw in the adaptor (photo). 19 Clean the mating faces of the engine front cover and crankcase and fit a new gasket to the front cover. 20 Fit the cover in position and locate the long bolt shown in this photo so that it engages with the fixed chain guide. 21 Secure thefront cover with the conventional bolt and dynamo adjustment link pivot, both using spring washers (photo).

51

Valve and valve spring - reassembly

To refit the valves and valve springs to the cylinder head, proceed as follows:

1 Rest the cylinder on its side and insert each valve and valve spring in turn, wiping down and lubricating each valve stem as it is inserted into the same valve guide from which it was removed (photo), 2 An oil seal is fitted between the cylinder head and valve spring on inlet valves only. 3 Fit the spring cups to the top of the valve springs and, with the base of the valve compressor on the valve head, compress the valve spring until the cotters can be slipped into place in the cotter grooves (photo). 4 Gently release the valve spring compressor. 5 Repeat this procedure until all eight valves and valve springs are fitted,

Cylinder head - replacement

After checking that both the cylinder block and cylinder head mating faces are perfectly clean, generously lubricate each cylinder with Castrol GTX. 1 Alwaysuse a new cylinder head gasket as the old gasket will be compressed

and not capable of giving a good seal,

2 Never smear grease on either side of the gasket for when the engine heats up, the grease will melt and may allow

the

camshaft housing and place the tappets in their

graphand carefully refit the housing, taking care to seat the tappets onto the valve stems, 5 Temporarily refit the camshaft sprocket to the camshaft,

and turn the camshaft until the sprocket and housing marks align (photo), 6 Fit the six housing securing bolts and tighten in a progressive and diagonal manner to a final torque wrench seting of 20lb ft. (photo), 7 Refer to Section 54 and check the tappet clearance, [If adjustment is necessary, remove the camshaft housing and lift out the relevant tappets. Recover the shim inside the tappetand by calculation select the correct shim. Reassemble the tappet and camshaft housing again.

54

Tappet adjustment

It is not usual for the tappets

to need re-adjustment

throughout the life of the engine because of the lack of moving parts normally found with overhead valve installations. The reasonfor this is that the camshaft bears directly on the top of the tappet which in turn is in direct contact with the valve stem. Should new parts have beenfitted then it will be necessary to check the clearances and adjust as necessary, 1 Obtaina0-1inch micrometer or very accurate vernier, 2 Open the bonnet and pull the breather hose from the cylinder head cover, 3

52

Invert

respective bores in the order in which they were removed, 4 Place the fingers over the tappets as shown in this photo-

Pull the fuel feed pipe from the carburettor float cham-

ber union and draw it through the thermostat housing clip, 4 Plug the end of the fuel pipe with a piece of tapered wood such

as a pencil to stop fuel spurting out when the camshaft

is rotated, 5 Pull off the ignition vacuum pipe from the manifold side of the carburettor body. 6 Undo and remove the six cylinder head cover securing bolts, Lift away the cover and the gasket. 7 Using a feeler gauge, check the clearance between the

54

Chapter 1 /Engine

cam

lobe and the tappet of each valve in the order given be-

low (photo). Make a not of the results obtained. 8 The camshaft must only be turned in the normal direction of rotation, For thisa mole wrench will make the job easier (photo), Check Check Check Check Check Check Check Check

No, 1 tappet with No, 3 tappet with No. 5 tappet with No. 2 tappet with No, 8 tappet with No, 6 tappet with No, 4 tappet with No, 7 tappet with

No. 8 valve fully No. 6 valve fully No. 4 valve fully No. 7 valve fully No. 1 valve fully No. 3 valve fully No. 5 valve fully No. 2 valve fully

open open open open open open open

away the cover, 11 Turn the engine in the normal direction of rotation until

the 1/4 TDC flywheel mark, with No. 1 cylinder about to commence the firing stroke, is in alignment with the pointer (photo). 12 Check that the camshaft sprocket and the housing marks align correctly. 13 Undo and remove the positive and then the negative terminal from the battery. Unscrew the battery clamp bar securing nuts and lift away the clamp bar and battery. 14 Undo and remove the four bolts and spring washers securing the combined top radiator stay and front lifting bracket. Lift away the bracket. 15 Undo and remove the two bolts and spring washers securing the engine steady and lifting bracket from the flywheel end of the cylinder head, 16 Remove the chain tensioner adaptor screw. Insert a into

the

screw

adaptor

clockwise direction so as to retract

(photo), 17 Undo and remove

and

turn

the tensioner

2.47 mm

inch, 2.52 mm inch, 2.56 mm inch, 2.62 mm inch, 2.67 mm inch, 2.72 mm inch, 2.77 mm

2.83 mm

0.113 inch,

2.87 mm

0.115

2.93

inch,

mm

0.117 inch, 2.98 mm 0.119 inch, 3.03 mm 0.121 inch, 3.08 mm 0. 123 inch, 3.13 mm 0.125 inch, 3.18 mm 0.127 inch, 3.23 mm

the bolt and spring washer securing

the tappets to fall clear of the camshaft housing and remain inpositionon the valve stems, Draw the camshaft out of the

housing from the flywheel end,

the maladjusted tappet and recover the adjust-

ment shim from within the tappet,

21 NOTE the thickness of the shim originally fitted (photo) and by using the following calculation determine the new thickness of shim required to give the correct inlet valve clearance of 0.016 to 0,018 inch and exhaust valve clearance of

0. 020 to 0, 022 inch,

Clearance as determined in paragraph 7 =A inch Thickness of shim removed = B inch Correct clearance =C inch New shim thickness required = A + B - C inch

23 Always check the shim thickness with a micrometer (photo). 24 Ifa range of shims is not available and the clearance is less than 0,012 inch it is possible to grind off a little metal from a shim using an oil stone, lubricated with paraffin,and a piece of soft wood as shown in the photo,

the thickness of metal being removed,

25

Keep a check on

using the micrometer.

Smear the shims in petroleum jelly and fit them into the

tappets,

26

Refit

the tappets into their respective guides and insert

the camshaft into the camshaft housing from the flywheel end, 27 The sequence for reassembly is now the reverse sequence to removal, Further information may be found in Section 53, 28 The radiator stay, lifting bracket securing bolts and spring washers shouldbe tightened to a torque wrench setting of 30lb ft. 29 The engine steady and flywheel end lifting bracket securing bolts and spring washers should be tightened to a torque wrench setting of 20 lb ft. 30 Tighten the camshaft sprocket securing bolt and spring washer to a torque wrench setting of 20 lb ft. (photo).

es ee ee 55

Engine - refitting to transmission unit

ey

Full information will be found in Chapter 6/4,

slipper

cket, 18 Undoand remove the six bolts which secure the camshaft housing to the cylinder head in a diagonal and progressive manner, 19 Carefully lift the camshaft housing sufficiently to allow

Remove

0.099 0.101 0.103 0.105 0.107 0.109

it ina

the camshaft sprocket to the camshaft and withdraw the spro-

20

0. 097 inch,

0.111 inch,

0. 020 to 0, 022 inch (exhaust) is only necessary if the clearance of either inlet or exhaust is less than 0, 022 inch, 10 To adjust the clearance first undo and remove the two flywheel housing timing cover bolts and spring washers, Lift

key

Shims are available in the following thicknesses:

open

9 Once the readings have been tabulated for all valves it should be noted that, when new parts have been fitted or the valve seats reground, adjustment of the valve tappet clearance tothe standard setting of 0. 016 to 0. 018 inch (inlet) and

1/8 inch Allen

22

56

Crankshaft pulley and vibration damper - refitting

SS ee

ee

1 Fit the pulley hub Woodruff key to the milled slot in the crankshaft (photo), This, andthe operation in the next paragraph, can be done with the engine away from the transmis sion unit if considered more convenient, 2 Slide the oil slinger over the end of the crankshaft nose

and push up against the crankshaft sprocket (photo).

3 With the engine bolted to the transmission unit, cut the protruding ends of the oil seals with a sharp knife, Take care they do not fall into the transmission casing (photo). 4 Lubricate the front seal and carefully push it into position, Note on some seals the word TOP is marked on the front face (photo), 5 Ease the crankshaft pulley and vibration damper over the nose of the crankshaft and engage the keyway with the Woodruff key previously positioned on the cranksh aft (photo), 6 Refit the pulley securing bolt anda new tab washer (photo), 7 Tighten the pulley securing bolt to a torque wrench setting of between 60 to 70 lb ft, (photo), 8 Toenable the previous operation to be carried out satisfactorily it will be necessary to lock the cranksh aft using a Screwdriver as shown in this photo,

55

FIG, No.

1:27

1

Breather hose

2

Carburettor

3

CHECKING

Description

TAPPET No.

fuel pipe

Plug to stop fuel syphoning from pipe

OP YA

ADJUSTMENT

Description Distributor vacuum

pipe

Cylinder head cover bolts Cylinder head cover and gasket Feeler gauge

56 57

Chapter 1/Engine 23 Ease the fuel feed pipe onto the float chamber union (photo). 24 Refit the ignition coil mounting bracket and any radio

Engine - final assembly

suppressor capacitors to the side of the cylinder block and se-

1 Fit a new combined inlet and exhaust manifold gasket taking care it is fitted the correct way round (photo).

cure with the two bolts, plain and spring washers.

2

Carefully

25

and

carburettor

and

secure

refit the combined inlet and exhaust manifold installation

to the side of the cylinder head

in position with the two nuts and spring washers

and seven bolts. Tighten all fixings in a progressive and diagonal manner (photo), 3 Refit the oil pressure warning light switch to the right hand side of the cylinder block (photo). 4

Ease

the

starter

motor

drive

into position.

Make

sure

Ease the hose onto the water pump

Secure with the nut,

so

spring and plain washer,

27 Fit new spark plugs to the cylinder head. to check the electrode gaps first (photo),

the main terminalis away from the cylinder block for inertia

28

the radiator

washers (photo). 6 Refitthe radiator top mounting to the top of the cylinder head and secure with the two bolts and spring washers, tightening to a torque wrench setting of 30 lb ft. (photo). 7 Refit the engine steady and lifting bracket to the flywheel end of the cylinder head. Secure with the two bolts and spring washers and tighten to a torque wrench setting of

(photo), the clip

that it may be easily undone when the engine is back in the car (photo). 26 Refit the mounting to the power unit at the rear of the cylinder block near to the left hand end by the fan (photo).

type starter motors (photo), 5 Secure the starter motor

with the two bolts and spring

and move

This

Do not forget

photo shows the location of the enlarged portion of

cowling

through which

the fan belt may be re-

moved or refitted when the radiator is in position.

29

Refitthe radiator to the upper and lower mounting brac-

kets and secure with the four bolts and plain washers (photo), 30 Tighten the top and bottom radiator hose clips (photos). 31

Insert

the fuel pump

push rod, and then the fuel pump,

Secure with the two bolts and spring washers (photos). 32 The cylinder head cover should not be fitted until the complete power unit is in place,

as it is easily damaged.

30 lb ft, (photo). 8

Refit the radiator

two

bolts and spring washers,

lower

mounting

and

secure with the

tightening to a torque wrench

58

setting of 30 lb ft. (photo), 9 Slowly turn the crankshaft in the normal direction of ro-

Engine and transmission - refitting Although

the engine

can be replaced

by one man and a

tationuntil the 1/4 TDC mark on the flywheel is aligned with

suitable

the pointer,

trol the winch and the other to guide the engine into position so it does not foul anything. Generally speaking replacement is a reversal of the procedures used when removing the unit, but the following points are of special note: 1 Ensureallthe loose leads, cables etc, are tucked out of the way. If not, it is easy to trap one and so cause much

No

1 cylinder should be at the top of the com-

pression stroke and just aboutto commence

the power

stroke.

10 Fit the distributor with the clamp plate and engage the driving dog into the distributor drive shaft. The rotor arm should

now point to the segment in the distributor

cap which

leads to No 1 spark plug (the one nearest the fan). 11

Replace the two distributor

lightly tighten,

The

clamp bolts and washers

and

ignition should be accurately set when

the engine is back in the car as described in Chapter 4/10. 12 Slide the dynamo adjustment link over its mounting on the cylinder block (photo), 13 Thread the long dynamo mounting bolt through the cast web on the cylinder block and the front end bracket, and lightly secure with the spring washer and nyloc nut (photo). 14 Refit the rear mounting bolt, spring washer and nyloc nut, 15 Assemble

the water pump pulley and fan and offer up to

the water pump drive flange. Secure with the three bolts and spring washers (photo). 16 Refit the fan belt and adjust the position of the dynamo

until there is 3 inch of lateral position

of the belt run between

winch,

it is easier

if two are present,

additional work after the unit is replaced. 2 Carefully lower the engine whilst an assistant recouples the drive shafts to the final drive unit, When finally in position refit the following:

a)

d)

Mounting nuts, bolts and washers, Speedometer drive cables, Clutch slave cylinder; check adjustment, Gear change linkage/cables.

e)

Wires

b) c)

to oil pressure

switch,

temperature

Exhaust system/down pipe to manifold,

at the mid point

i) j)

Earth and starter motor cables, Heater and servo hoses,

the dynamo pulley and the

k)

Vacuum

1)

Distributor cap and HT leads.

water pump (photo), 17 Clean the mating

gauge ther-

mal transmitter, ignition coil, distributor and dynamo, f) Carburettor controls, g) Air cleaner and cylinder head cover,

h)

movement

one to con-

advance and retard pipe.

faces of the thermostat housing and cylinder head and fit a new gasket to the thermostat housing,

m)

Fuel pump.

n)

Battery.

(photo). 18 Fit the housing to the cylinder head and tighten the three securing bolts to a torque wrench setting of 8 - 10 Ib ft. (photo). 19 Fit the thermostat into the housing (photo). 20 Make sure the mating faces of the top hose elbow and thermostat housing are clean and fit a new gasket (photo), 21 Fit the three elbow securing bolts noting that one also

0) If applicable, bleed brake hydraulic system and pressurise hydrolastic suspension, 3 Check that the drain taps are closed and refill the cool-

retains the fuelpipe clip.

Tighten the three bolts to a torque

wrench setting of 8 - 10 lb ft. (photo). 22 Refit the dip stick guide tube union to the side of the transmission casing (photo).

ing system

with water.

Full information will be found

in

Chapter 2.

4

Finally refill the power unit with Castrol GTX (photo).

— ee

eee. 59 Engine - initial start up after overhaul or major repair e Ee e ee een 1 Make sure that the battery is fully charged and that the oil,water and fuel are replenished,

Chapter 1 /Engine

59

Sn SS SS SS ASRS RS

2

If the fuel system

has been dismantled

it will require

several revolutions of the engine on the starter motor to get the petrolup to the carburettor. An initial prime by pouring petrol down the carburettor feed pipe will help the engine to fire quickly thus relieving the load on the battery. 3 As soon as tke engine fires and runs, keep it going at a fast tickover only (not faster) and bring it up to normal working temperature, 4 As the engine warms up there will be odd smells and some smoke from parts getting hot and burning off oil deposits, The signs to look for are leaks of oil or water which willbe obvious, if serious. Checkalsothe clamp connections of the exhaust pipes to the manifolds as these do not always

‘find' their exact gas tight position until the warmth and vibration have acted on them and it is almost certain that they will need tightening further. This should be done, of course, with the engine stopped. 5 Whennormal running temperature has been reached adjust the idling speed as described in Chapter 3.

6 Stop the engine and wait a few minutes to see if any lubricant or coolant is dripping out when the engine is station-

ary. 7

Roadtest the car to check that the timing is correct and

giving

the necessary

smoothness

and power.

Do

not

race

the engine - when new bearings and/or pistons and rings have been fitted it should be treated as a new engine and run in at reduced revolutions for the first 500 miles,

Fault Finding Chart - Engine Remedy

Trouble

Cause

SYMPTOM:

ENGINE

No current

at starter

FAILS TO TURN OVER WHEN STARTER BUTTON Flat or defective battery motor Loose battery leads

PULLED

Defective starter solenoid or switch or broken wiring Engine earth strap disconnected Jammed

Current at starter motor

starter motor drive pinion

Defective starter motor

Charge or replace battery. Push-start car. Tighten both terminals and earth ends of earth lead. Run a wire direct from the battery tothe starter motor or by-pass the solenoid. Check and retighten strap. Place car ingear and rock from side to side. Alternatively, free exposed square end of shaft with spanner. Remove and recondition.

i

SYMPTOM:

ENGINE

TURNS

OVER

No spark at spark plug

BUT WILL NOT START Ignition system damp or wet

Ignition leads to spark plugs loose

Wipe dry the distributor cap and ignition leads. Check andtighten et both spark plug and distributor cap ends,

No fuel at carburettor float chamber or at jets

Shorted or disconnected low tension leads Dirty, incorrectly set, or pitted contact breaker points.

Check the wiring on the CB and SW terminals of the coil and to the distributor. Clean, file smooth, and adjust.

Faulty condenser

Check contact breaker points for arcing, move and fit new.

Defective ignition switch Ignition leads connected wrong way round Faulty coil Contact breaker point spring earthed or broken

By-pass switch with wire. Remove and replace leads to spark plugs in correct order. Remove and fit new coil. Check spring is not touching metal part of distributor. Check insulator washers are correctly placed. Renew points if the spring is broken. Refill tank! Blow into petrol tank, allow engine to cool, or apply a cold wet rag to the fuel line. Remove, clean, and replace. Remove, clean, and replace. Dismantle and clean. Remove, overhaul, and replace. Remove and dry spark plugs or with wide open throttle, push-start the car. Remove, examine, clean and replace float and needle valve as necessary. Remove and adjust correctly.

No petrol in petrol tank Vapour lock in fuel line (In hot conditions or at high altitude)

Blocked float chamber needle valve Fuel pump filter blocked

Choked or blocked carburettor jets Excess of petrol in cylinder or carburettor flooding

Faulty fuel pump Too much choke allowing too rich a mixture to wet plugs Float damaged or leaking or needle not seating Float lever incorrectly adjusted

re-

ee aEEEE EES nnn

SYMPTOM: ENGINE STALLS AND WILL NOT START Ignition failure - sudden No spark at spark plug

Check over

low and high tension circuits for

Fault Finding Chart - Engine Sn

RISER

meaieneeeeammennnereeeemeener

Cause

een

ee

a

Trouble

Remedy

ee Pee ered ee er ees ee

Ignition failure - misfiring precludes total stoppage Ignition failure - In severe

rain

or

ee

el

ea

breaks in wiring. Check contact breaker points, clean and adjust. Renew condenser if faulty. Dry out ignition leads and distributor cap,

after traversing water splash No fuel at jet

Intermittent

spark at spark plug

No petrol in petrol tank Petrol tank breather choked

Refill tank. Remove petrol cap and clean out breather hole

Sudden obstruction in carburettor(s)

or pipe, Check jet, :!ter,

Water in fuel system

chamber for blockage, Drain tank and blow out fuel lines,

Ignition leads loose

and

needle

valve

in float

Check and tighten as necessary at spark plug and distributor cap ends.

Battery leads loose on terminals Battery earth strap loose on body,

Check and tighten terminal leads, Check and tighten earth lead to body attach—

attachment

ment point.

point

SYMPTOM: ENGINE MISFIRES OR IDLES UNEVENLY Intermittent sparking at spark plug Engine earth lead loose Low tension leads to SW and CB terminals on coil loose Low tension lead from CB terminal side to distributor loose Dirty, or incorrectly gapped plugs Dirty, incorrectly set, tact breaker points

Fuel shortage at engine

or pitted con-

Tighten lead. Check and tighten leads if found loose. Check and tighten if found loose. Remove, clean, and regap. Clean, file smooth, and adjust.

Tracking across inside of distributor cover

Remove

Ignition too retarded

Check aml adjust ignition timing. Remove and fit new coil.

Faulty coil Mixture too weak

Air leak in carburettor Air leak at inlet manifold to cylinder head, or inlet manifold to carburettor

and fit new cover.

Check jets, float chamber

needle valve,

and

filters for obstruction. Clean as necessary. Carburettor incorrectly adjusted. Remove and overhaul carburettor. Test by pouring oil along joints. Bubbles indicate leak. Renew manifold gasket as appropriate.

Mechanical wear

Incorrect valve clearances Burnt out exhaust valves

Sticking or leaking valves Weak or broken valve springs Worn valve guides or stems

Adjust to take up wear.

Remove cylinder head and renew defective valves. Remove cylinder head, clean, check and re—

new valves as necessary, Check and renew as necessary,

Renew valve guides and valves, Dismantle engine, renew pistons and rings. aa i SYMPTOM: LACK OF POWER & POOR COMPRESSION Fuel/air mixture leaking from cyBurnt out exhaust valves Remove cylinder head, renew defective Worn pistons and piston rings

linder

valves. Sticking or leaking valves Worn valve guides and stems Weak or broken valve springs

Remove cylinder head,

clean,

check,

and

renew valves as necessary, Remove cylinder head and renew valves and valve guides. Remove cylinder head, renew defective springs,

Blown cylinder head gasket (Accompanied by increase in noise)

Remove cylinder head and fit new gasket.

Worn pistons and piston rings

Dismantle engine, Dismantle engine,

Worn or scored cylinder bores Incorrect adjustments

renew pistons and rings, rebore, renew pistons &

rings.

Ignition timing wrongly set, To advanced or retarded Contact breaker points incorrectly

Check and reset ignition timing,

Fault Finding Chart - Engine Cause

Trouble

Remedy

gapped

Check and reset contact breaker points. Check and adjust Remove, clean and regap. Tune carburettor for optimum performance. Remove, clean, and replace. Dismantle, inspect, clean, and replace all fuel filters.

Incorrect valve clearances Incorrectly set spark plugs

Carburation too rich or too weak Dirty contact breaker points Fuel filters blocked causing to end fuel starvation Distributor automatic balance weights or vacuum advance and retard mechanisms not functioning correctly Faulty fuel pump giving top end fuel

Carburation and ignition faults

" starvation

tioned fuel pump.

SYMPTOM: EXCESSIVE OIL CONSUMPTION Badly worn perished or missing valve Oil being burnt by engine stem oil seals. Excessively worn valve stems and valve guides Worn piston rings. Worn pistons and cylinder bores Excessive piston ring gap allowing blow-up Piston oil return holes choked Leaking oil filter gasket Leaking tap cover gasket Leaking tappet chest gasket Leaking timing case gasket Leaking sump gask et

Oil being lost due to leaks

Overhaul distributor. Remove, overhaul, or fit exchange recondi-

Remove,

Remove cylinder head andfit new valves and valve guides, Fit oil control rings to existing pistons or purchase new pistons. Fit new pistons and rings, rebore cylinders.

Fit new piston rings and set gap correctly. Decarbonise Inspect and Inspect and Inspect and Inspect and

engine fit new fit new fit new fit new

and pistons. gasket as necessary. gasket as necessary. gasket as necessary. gasket as necessary.

Inspect and fit new gasket as necessary. Tighten,

Loose sump plug

fit new-oil seals to valve stems.

fit new gasket if necessary.

EE

SYMPTOM:

UNUSUAL

Excessive clearances anical wear

NOISES

FROM

due to mech-

ENGINE Worn valve gear (Noisy tapping from top cover) Worn big end bearing (Regular heavy knocking)

Inspect and renew parts as necessary.

Worn chain and gear (Rattling from front of engine) Worn main bearings (Rumbling and vibration)

Remove

Worn crankshaft (Knocking, and vibration)

rumbling

Drop sump, if bearings broken up clean out oil pump and oilways, fit new bearings. If bearings not broken but worn fit bearing shells. timing cover,

fit new timing whe—

els and timing chain, Remove crankshaft, if bearing worn but not broken up, renew. If broken up strip oil pump and clean out oilways. Regrind crankshaft, fit new main and big end bearings.

Chapter 2 Cooling system Contents

General description

Cooling system Cooling system

..

- draining - flushing

Coolineysystemp— filling Radiator

- removal,

6.

es

Bed ODL

Oa O88 re retis\clcoreremeeet

inspection and cleaning

...

Radiator - replacement 508. Soh oon Thermostat - removal, testing and replacement

,..

NOOO PWD

Thermostat housing - removal and refitting ... ... Water pump - removal and refitting ciate ote eine Water pump - dismantling and overhaul... ... ... Fan belt - removal and replacement picinnacieiea eters Fan belt - adjustment Aree Va dey MCE Mat: Ory AON

8 9 10 11 12

Expansion; tank-i%

13

cc)

I

ree eH Pw

Lighting switch Headlamp dip switch RH headlamp LH headlamp Main beam warning lamp RH sidelamp

Speedometer Water temperature gauge Water temperature transmitter Reverse lamp switch Reverse lamp

LH sidelamp Panel lamps Number plate lamps

Cigar lighter * Radio * Bi-metal instrument voltage stabilizer

RH stop/tail lamp LH stop/tail lamp Stop lamp switch Fuse block eR RP NRPrPH ANAAInterior lamp SO RH door switch LH door switch

Line fuse,

Horn Horn-push

Flasher Direction Ww WD NOonNWNnw re aAomnrrwn

indicator and headlamp flasher switch Direction indicator warning lamps RH front flasher lamp LH front flasher lamp RH rear flasher lamp LH rear flasher lamp Heater blower switch * Heater blower motor *

Fuel gauge Fuel gauge tank unit (S60) I (DO)ear«eneit6Soe 9) (00) geaers ive) nd wWwwwwnd Wd Xon

TAO? ia, 115, uGs T39A\,

35 amp

Electric windscreen washer * Windscreen washer switch * Induction heater and thermostat * Suction chamber heater * RH repeater flasher LH repeater flasher Rear window demist switch * Rear window demist unit * Alternative connection - lead added to

harness from nine-way socket to headlamp 150. 152, 153, 154, 158, 159,

164

when existing lead is not required * Rear window demist warning lamp * Hazard warning lamp * Hazard warning switch *

Hazard warning flasher unit * Printed circuit instrument panel * Brake pressure warning lamp and lamp test-push * Ballast resistor

*A¢cessory or optional extra when fitted. Cable Colour Code

N, Brown U. Blue R, Red

P, Purple G, Green LG. Light Green

W. White Y. Yellow B. Black

O, Orange

When a cable has two colour code letters the first denotes the main colour and the second denotes the tracer colour

189 \

DY euge 8

p.

ee

4p AQ) =


Air control cab le Blower control switch

Using a small screwdriver, unscrew the grub screws that

secure the control knobs to the heater controls. two knobs,

Remove

the

6 With a knife, carefully prise away the heater control masking plate, 7 Undo and remove the two bolts and shakeproof washers that secure the heater controls to the facia board, 8 Disconnect the temperature and air control cables from the heater, Detach the cables from the retaining clips. 9 Refer to Section 15 and remove the parcel shelf, 10 Detach the demister hoses from the heater unit, 11 Make a note of the electrical cable connections at the blower control switch and detach the two Lucar connectors,

FIG,

Description No. 1 Heater assembly 2 Heater matrix 3 4

Fan Motor

5 6 7

Clip Clip Locknut

8 9

Temperature control lever Demister control lever

HEATER

EXTERNAL

COMPONENTS

No. Description 15 Water control valve 16 Water control valve cable

Cale

10 Screw 11 Knob

12 Knob - rod gear change 13 Temperature control cable 14 havister control cable

12:18

!

|

prar change

Rabie ipca pbenge

17

Trunnion for cable

18 19 20

Screw Grommet Heater to water control valve hose

21 22 23

Hose Control valve to water pump hose Hose clip

24 25

Demister hose Heater intake duct drain tube

26 27 28

Temperature and demister cl Temperature control cable Demister control cable

Rod 3

gear change :

Chapter 12/Bodywork & Underframe

228

moval,

11 Carefully part the casing halves and lift away the matrix. 12 Disconnect the control cabks from the control levers and detach the cables from the retaining clips. 13 Reassembly of the heater unit is the reverse Sequence to removal,

23

24

12 Removal is now identical to that for the cable gear change, Refertoparagraphs 11 to13 inclusive of 'Cable gear change! above. 13

Refitting the heater

unit is the reverse

sequence

to re-

Heater unit - dismantling and reassembly

1 Release the spring from the heater flap. 2 Rod gear change models only. Disconnect the control cables from the heater and detach the cables from the retaining clips.

3 Release the six clips that secure the booster fan motor mounting plate, Lift away the plate complete with fan, motor and electric cables. + Lift up the fan mounting plate and, with a soldering iron, unsolder the booster fan mo:cr cables from the resistance. 5 Release the spring clip that secures the fan to the motor spindle. Withdraw the tan. 6 Undo and remove the three long bolts, plain washers and nut that secure the motor. Lift away the motor. 7 Release the clipsfrom the ends of the controlflap mounting spindles, 8 Unscrew and remove thescrews that secure the backing plate.

9 10

Remove Release

the lower mounting bracket. the clips retaining the two halves of the casing.

FIG, 12:19

HEATER

REMOVAL

(ROD

Heater pipe Heater

control

masking

control

to facia

plate

Heater

6 Heater demist hoses

7 Blower

board securing screws securing clips

cables

control

switch

connections

8 Heater

Heater control

Cable

i

gear change

Unscrew and

secures

remove

the screw and plain washer that

the lid support to the lid.

2 Unscrew and remove the three hinge screws and plain washers and lift away the lid. 3 Undo and remove the three glovebox retaining screws, two plain washers and lid striker. Note which way round the striker is fitted, 4 Carefully draw the glovebox compartment rearwards. 5 Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal. Rod gear change

1

Undo and remove the screws that secure the glovebox lid

support.

2 Undo and remove the two screws and plain washers that secure the glovebox lid striker. 3 Undo and remove the glovebox side and lower end retaining screws and draw the glovebox compartment rearwards, 4 Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal.

UNIT GEAR

CHANGE)

2 Heater control knob

Glovebox - removal and refitting

lower

retaining

screw

9 Heater securing nut and earth cable

10 Heater assembly

FIG, 12:20 HEATER INTERNAL COMPONENTS Description No. Description Flap control spring spindle Control cables and securing Backing plate securing screws clips Lower mounting bracket

Clip - booster fan motor mounting plate

Casing clips Casing half

Fan mounting baffle plate Clip - fan to motor spindle Motor securing bolts Clip - control flap mounting

Heater matrix Control cable attachment to control levers

229

V —18

FIG, No.

Description

R H seat assembly LH seat assembly R H seat frame LH seat frame Handle Screw eH aonrwond

No,

7 8 9 10 11

12:21

FRONT

Description

Cushion pad Cushion cover Squab diaphragm Diaphram hook Squab pad

12 Squab cover

SEAT COMPONENTS No.

13 14 15 16 17 18

Description Clip Clip Locking slide assembly

Description Slide

Locking slide assembly Spring Knob

Nut Screw Plain washer

Plain washer Shakeproof washer

230

FIG, No.

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Description Rear cushion frame Rear cushion pad Rear cushion cover Clip Rear cushion support Clip Plain washer Locknut Rear cushion bottom liner

12:22

REAR

SEAT

No. Description 10 Screw

11

Cupwasher

12

Screw

13 14 15 16 7 18

Cup washer Rear squab spring case Rear squab pad Rear squab pad cover Squab panel Screw

COMPONENTS No. 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26

27

Description Lock washer RH squab lock LH squab lock Screw Plain washer Locknut Knob Lock escutcheon Grommet

No.

Description

28

Lock striker plate

29

Screw

30 31 32

Lock washer Squab support hasp Squab hasp backing plate

33

Screw

34

Screw

35

Cup washer

231

Ly

wT

FIG, Description No, 1 Windscreen washer pump

2 3

Reservoir cap Reservoir

12:23 WINDSCREEN No. Description 4 Connector 5 Non-return valve

WASHER

COMPONENTS Descni ption No. 6 Reservoir to pump 7 Pump to jet tube

tube

Description No, Pick-up tube 8

9

Jet

Index A Accelerator

Clutch and actuating mechanism - specifications - 91

pedal - 80

Clutch - bleeding - 94

Antifreeze mixture - 68

judder - 100 master cylinder - 94 pedal - 98

B

Battery - 162, 163 Big end bearing - examination & renovation - 45 removal - 38 Bodywork and underframe - door rattles - 220 door striker plate - 218 facia board - 220 facia panel - 220, 222

release bearing - 98 removal and replacement slave cylinder - 94 slip - 100 spin - 100 squeal - 100 Condenser - 84

front door - 214, 218

reassembly - 213

removal

glovebox - 228

- 50

- 38

Connecting rods to crankshaft - refitting - 51

maintenance - 213, 214 parcel shelf - 222 rear door - 218 rear seat - 230 repairs - 214 tailgate - 222 windscreen & back light glass - 220 windscreen washer - 231 Bonnet - 224 Braking system brake pedal - 157 brake shoe adjuster - 144 brake stop light switch - 157 drum brake adjustment - 142 drum brake backplate - 145 drum brake shoes - 143 fault finding chart - 158 flexible hose - 156

Contact breaker points - 84 Cooling system - draining - 63 expansion tank - 68 fault finding chart - 69 filling - 63 flushing - 63 general description - 62 specifications - 62 Crankshaft - examination and renovation - 45 primary gear - end float - 102 primary gear - removal and refitting - 104 pulley and vibration damper - refitting - 54 removal - 42 replacement - 48 sprockets - examination and renovation - 47 sprockets - refitting - 51 Cylinder bores - examination and renovation - 45 Cylinder head - decarbonisation - 47

front dise brake - 146

removal

general description - 142 girling 'super-vac' - 152

replacement

handbrake - adjustment - 145 handbrake cable - 146 master cylinder (single) - 148 master cylinder (tandem) - 148,

150 pressure differential warning actuator valve - 154 pressure reducing valve - 154 rear brake - 144 specifications - 141 vacuum servo unit - 150

Cc Camshaft - examination and renovation - 46

34

- 52

D Decarbonisation - 47 Differential unit - 136, 140 Distributor - 85, 86 Distributor and fuel pump drive shaft - refitting - 50 removal - 38 Drive shafts - constant velocity joint garter - 134 general description - 130 Dynamo - 163, 164, 165, 168

current regulator - 176 cut-out - adjustment - 176 cut-out and regulator contacts - 174 direction indicator, horn and headlamp - 187

sprockets - examination and renovation - 47 Carburettor

- adjustment and tuning - 76 choke control - 79 description - 72 dismantling and reassembly - 74

examination and repair - 74 float chamber flooding - 75 float chamber fuel level adjustment - 76 float needle sticking - 75 jet centering - 75 needle replacement - 76 piston sticking - 74 removal and replacement - 72

- 32,

E Electrical system - control box - 174

refitting - 52 removal - 34

’

water or dirt in - 75 Clutch and actuating mechanism

.

Connecting rods - examination and renovation - 46

front seat - 229 general description

- 96, 98

fault finding chart - 193 flasher unit and circuit - 176 fuel and temperature gauges - 186 fuses - 187 general description - 162 instrument operation - 180 instrument panel and printed circuit - 182, number plate and reverse light bulbs - 180 regulator - 174 reverse light switch - 128

side and front flasher bulbs - 180 - general description - 91

flasher

specifications - 160

186

unit

stop,

Pistons

tail and rear flasher bulbs - 180

switches - 187 voltage stabilizer - 187 wiring diagrams - 188, 189, 190, 191, 192 28 Engine - (cable gear change models) - removal 28 removal models) change Engine - (rod gear Engine - dismantling - 32 examination and renovation - 44 fault finding chart - 59

R Radiator grille - 222 Routine maintenance - 6

general description - 18 initial start up after overhaul - 57 operations with engine in place - 18 operations with engine removed - 22 reassembly - 48 refitting - 57 removing ancilliary components - 32

s Spare parts - ordering - 14 Spark plugs - 87 Starter motor - general description - 168 M35G

- 28

separation from transmission

F Fan belt - 64, 68 Final drive - general description - 136 specifications - 136 on - 47 Flywheel starter ring - examination and renovati - 70,

special maintenance

72

Suspension - displacer unit - 204

fault finding chart - 212 front hubs - 200 general description - 197 lower suspension arm (front) - 202 radius arm (rear) - 203 reaction lever assembly - 203, 204

G - 46 Gudgeon pins - exainination and renovation removal - 40

H

:

il Ignition - timing - 86 Ignition system - fault diagnosis - 88 fault symptoms - 88

general description - 83 specifications - 83

L Lubricants - recommended - 13 42 Lubricating system - description 12 chart ation Lubric M

tion - 45 Main bearing - examination and renova 42 removal O

Oil filter - 42 Oil pressure relief valve - 42

tion - 47 Oil pump - examination and renova removal and dismantling - 44

- 206

specifications - 196 Steering column - 208, 210 Steering gear - 210 - 208 Steering lock and ignition/starter switch Steering wheel - 208

Fuel system - fault finding chart - 82 general description - 70 specifications - 70 Fuel tank - 80 sender unit - 80

Headlight - beam - 180 units - 180 Heater - 226, 228 Horns - 178 Hub and drive shaft - 130

- 169

M35J - 170 M35J pre-engaged - 170, 172 2M100 pre-engaged - 172, 174 solenoid - 176 Steering - fault finding chart - 212 front wheel alignment - 211 general description - 197

specifications - 15

Fuel pump

and renovation - 45

Radiator - 63

;

final assembly - 57

- examination

reassembly - 50 removal - 38 replacene nt - 50 Piston rings - examination and renovation - 45 removal - 40 replacement - 50

rear hub axle - 200 rear hubs - 200 specifications - 196 trim bar - 204 on - 206 trim height and displacer unit pressurisati 203 (front) arm sion suspen upper T Tappets - adjustment - 52 examination and renovation - 46 refitting - 952 removal - 34 Thermostat - 64 Throttle cable - 76 38 Timing chain - guides - removal refitting - 51

tensioner - dismantling - 44 tensioner - refitting - 51

tensioner - removal - 36 l - 34 Timing chain and sprockets - remova dismantling - 104 ) change Transmission (cable gear reassembly - 115 remote control - 124,

126

dismantling - 111 Transmission (rod gear change) reassembly - 122 remote control - 126, 128 Transmission - components - 111

234 SS

S

Transmission - fault finding chart - 129 general description - 102 refitting to engine - 122 remote control change speed cables - 126 reverse

light switch - 128

Index sss

ss

sss

snot

v Valves - examination and renovation — £6 reassembly - 32

removal — 3 Ventik

separation from engine - 104 specifications

Tyre pressures

- 101

- 197

Ww U

Universal joints - general description - 130 inner - 134 outer — 130

Water pump - & Windsereen wiper - arms

bisdes - 1TS mechanism — 1T6 motor — ITS

- 1T¢

nen

RUSSERT

Castiol craves Castral

Fiqine Ole

Cael

Gis

hauitin oi

GIA

SAL

ihe lnteel

evoeed

RINE

Costa PHLBELS

Caatral cl

Control Mypay Light (HO EF)

Sigh panos

whieh

PAU

Castrol Greases (continued)

Covtral Gear Olle (oontinued)

‘

BOE TAU liquid

wih

BGINBS

peOTnRnie,

ALINE

ZOW/9O

AVI

By

tangelend

BATTEN

BNO LOITie

mato

IAS

TUTE

aeieation

gene

himig

'/

of

Wath youd ould

contig sharing WHT OH Fane On Ayuraved by lending iar many

hvary

Night Vode

vovyeilul a7iieine

quant oil for vee

WN ya

CAR

OUT

BAA

Lagial

teat

GARI

Mypoy WG

ayles

presets in nia

Chases

Les

lubocation

Castral Medium

ER)

A light Wodied PO WEL

A sami tid calowum based grease, which is hail wateruroot and adhesive, intended tor

BALIN

PTRWRUTE Geat

h madam consistency calcium based grease

Hil thal complies wih the sequiremene of the MN 1 106K epeetiontion, for uae Wn Certain

Castrol Weovy

yunrhasns

h hiavy consistency calcium based grease

wid teat AMG

Caetial AL 70/90 Contains

quid

monly

Of DONO Tne

Lungelens

LOnep

ion

cantiolin

Wall

guited

io the

giviny youd oil both

new

and

A enn) wid tnt

Castrol PW

Cantal Hi Proes (140 EF) WOdind BARING

PIRGeT

Gear oil far

vee ii opiral Davel oar a7lee and some Yunihuses

Cawtralite (Muli

grade)

(hie ye the tightwel mun qiide oi wl ihe iquid Castrol meter on tarnihy banning lh ie hast guiled 10 GHbie Baby tunyetent Wien models bar Winer eating wd tor Tobe oils muanuincturers epeciy ligne weight

Cagiial Grand brie

An SAP

60 engine oN for ies

full hadied

labean

here

a eayy

jaquied

Cootral Gf (40) A light hadiad qanr oil With fortitying additives Castel

two

Sinko

HANSMISSION

HAOivAs

Castrol Under Water Grease

Castrol Aight

Halergeney

Pour

Caraeterenies

A yrease tor the under water gears of outboard

motors

(hie ie a special oll for cunninigein Cartan

Anti Freem

Conosion

Hi ie suitable for all Iwo stroke motor vyelas wid for two whroke and siiall (our stroke maehines

Castrol OR (ulti grade)

A high quality engine Oil ol the SAL 2OW 140 multi gride type, suited to mized Newt HM ATION

Castrol Ant) Frees Automatic

Castrol

Transmission

Fluids

TOF

(Automatic

Contains anti-corrosion additives with ethylene glycol, Hecommended for tha cooling systems of all petrol and diesel engines

Transmission Fluid)

Ayprovad for use in all Borg Warner hutomate Transmission Units, Castrol TOF also meats ford specification IAZ0 4b Castrol 10 Dexsron®

Castro! CHETO, 20, 40 of Vrimarily for diesel angings, # Fangs ponvily Joritind, tally detergent oils, Covering ihe requirements of OV JIAO 0 and Supplariant | spa Hioations

Caatrol OH

pressure gear

Chains

hypoid years aid

yiihitors, coupled with low woh forming tnndeney aid aZcellent ann aul properties

horlioultual

thie Hypoy FD (40 FP) bodied powalul aniiame

AD motor ol joesmening youd

A premium SAL

Castrol Graphited Grease

A yrapliied grease for the Jubrication of

0 (IAD)

A hiwavy (ull bodied gear oil with fortitying

od,

Castrol

A white qrease for plunger housings and other moving parts on brake machaniamns Wmit NOT he allowed to came into contact with brake Nuid when applied to the moving parts ol hyde brakes

(Automatic

Transmission Fluid)

Complies with the raquiraments of Nexon Automatic Transmission Fluids as laid down by General Motors Corporation

70, 40

Speciality Products Castrol Girling Damper Oi Thin

fhe oil for Giding piston type hydraulic dampars

Castrol Shockol

A light viscosity oil for use in some piston type shock absorbers and in some hydraulic

systems employing synthetic rubber seals, It must not be used in braking systems, Castrol Penetrating Oil

Primarily for dinsel engings, heavily fortified nts fully detergent oils, Covering ihe quireme at MUL 7104

Castrol Greases

Castrol HAD

Castrol LM

highly Primarily designed and davaloped for should not strasead racing angings, Castrol ‘WY

qrada of Castrol

A multi-purpose high melting point lithium pasad grease approved tor most automotive applications including chassis and wheal hearing lubrication

Castrol MS4

Castrolloe

790 davarid Wy Miitish Patent No Wh,

A high malting point lithium based grease

An upper cylinder lubricant for use in the

with any he mixed with any other oil nor

long phiquid Lungstan se an wil soluble Winytily ehain arary AY! PUMATY AOE

containing molybdenum disulphide, Control Gear Oils

Castrol BNS

Castrol Mypoy (80 ER)

A high melting point grease for use where recommended by certain manufacturers in front wheel hearings when dise brakes are fitted

e Yaar A sight bodied HOW BATHING PLASBUT in some oil for use in hypold rear axles and (anthOoses

A \eat spring lubricant possessing a high dayren of penetration and providing protection

against rust Castrol Solvent Flushing Oil A \ight-hodied solvent oil, designed for flushing engings, rear avles, gearboxes and QeAarcasings

proportion of 1 fluid ounce to two gallons of fuel Everyman Oil

A light -hodied machine oil containing ants corrosion additives for both general use and cyole lubrication

ee

| eee

~»

i)

&

ee

tea

eee

é=

eo?

a

«¢

Tlei

——

£ hd

we

¢ BRI oody eS

ia

a

0D

,

7 Te

er

5

ark. PE

«*

JA

2

a

a

a

4

=

? in

ar 66

;

ert a 46, *]

ga

©

a

ax

=

=P

oa 14!

ae,

Oo

OD

Gea

=

LA

So =

aaa

SS Etre

aie

on?

+@ ceeds & Oe pa 4

oe

—

7 et, a

e290

=e

«a

Ge

ee

ye

Pi

(Cai

Owe

GA

i?

1.

94

©

ats

@~

? =p é

hor 12

ey

ees

es

cae

oe

Ld po WG al > aos

ae

2

wie"

| Dips.

eS

4

puee taq re

- oe

aZ an

0 pesos

Dl apes rad 0

pea

an

16

aw

==

oe COS

=

hee

hg

|

SS

eo eines

a

aad

bf

gene 5 Geel Sz4o eeP>

OG

i? Geen

Hors

a: Sedge ©

pit

664

4 ee be “A OF. -vea8 Psi

adhe es

OS Whine whey

ee’ en

GaP

:

8 Her’ 7

lu wertged be * Jeqees eqgrielieng

Whew Dee} El blend . ee KC Ol \7 8 orgs Bea

‘fig