Haynes Austin Allegro Owners Workshop Manual 0856969427, 9780856969423

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ae PSS

WCU LL

EDINBURGH

Vuh eran Reference Department

4 THIS BOOK MUST NOT BE REMOVED UNDER ANY PRETEXT FROM THE REFERENCE DEPARTMENT. INFRINGEMENT OF THIS RULE RENDERS THE OFFENDER LIABLE TO PROSECUTION.

Before leaving the Library readers must return the books to one of the attendants at the issue desk, or they will be held responsible for them. Readers are required to take care of the books. Writing or drawing with pen or pencil on any part of a book, or turning down the leaves, or cutting or mutilating them, will be treated as serious damage.

§ CONVERSATION IN THE REFERENCE DEPARTMENT IS ANNOYING TO STUDENTS, AND IS NOT PERMITTED.

eC

‘Location.

: Accession.

on Witharown

Austin Allegro Owners Workshop Manual. by

JHHaynes

Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers

and BL Chalmers—Hunt TEng (CE!), AMIMI, AMIRTE, AMVBRA

Models covered

Austin Allegro 1500 and 1750 (1973 to 1975) Austin Allegro 2 1500 and 1750 (1975 to 1979) Austin Allegro 3 1.5 and 1.7 (1979 to 1982)

ISBN 0 85696 942 7 © Haynes Publishing Group 1974, 1977, 1979, 1981, 1982, 1983 All rights any form recording in writing

reserved. or by any or by any from tke

No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, infogsmation storage orretrieval system, without permission copyright holder.

Printed in England

(165 -2J7)

HAYNES PUBLISHING GROUP SPARKFORD YEOVIL SOMERSET distributed in the USA by

HAYNES PUBLICATIONS 861 LAWRENCE DRIVE NEWBURY PARK CALIFORNIA 91320

USA

E.C.L.

INC

BA22 7JJ ENGLAND

ABCOE

es

|EDINBURGH CITY LIBRARIES | AC

Acknowledgements Thanks are due to BL Cars Limited for the provision of technical information and certain illustrations, and to F. J. Chalke and Son of Mere, Wiltshire who were extremely helpful in providing much detailed information on Allegro Series 3 models. Thanks are also due to the Champion Sparking Plug Company who supplied the illustrations showing the various

About

this manual

Its aim

P

The aim of this manual is to help you gef*thesbest value from* your car. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage), provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage, and going there twice to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs the garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads. The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Then the tasks are described and photographed in a step-by-step sequence so that even a novice can do the work.

[ts arrangement The manual is divided into thirteen Chapters each covering a logical sub-division of the vehicle. The Chapters are each divided into Sections, numbered Sections into paragraphs

with single figures, eg 5; and the (or sub-sections), with decimal num-

bers following on from the Section they are in, eg 5.1, 5.2, 5.3 etc;

spark plug conditions. The bodywork repair photographs used in this manual were provided by Holt Lloyd Limited who supply ‘Turtle Wax’, ‘Dupli-color Holts’ and other Holts range products. Special thanks are due to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual.

It is freely illustrated, especially in those parts where there is

a detailed sequence of operations to be carried out. There are two forms of illustration; figures and photographs. The figures are numbered in sequence with decimal numbers, according to their position in the Chapter; eg Fig. 6.4 is the 4th drawing/ illustration in Chapter 6, Photographs are numbered (either individually or in related groups) the same as the Section or sub-section of the text where the operation they show is described. There is an alphabetical index at the back of the manual! as well as a contents list at the front. References to the ‘left’ or ‘right’ of the vehicle are in the sense of a person in the driver's seat facing forwards.

Unless otherwise stated, nuts and bolts are removed turning anti-clockwise, and tightened by turning clockwise.

by

Vehicle manufacturers continually make changes to specifications and recommendations, and these when notified are incorporated into our manuals at the earliest opportunity. Whilst every care is taken to ensure that the information in the manual is correct, no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

Contents Page

Acknowledgements

:

2

About this manual

2

Introduction to the Austin Allegro

4

Buying spare parts and vehicle identification numbers

4

Recommended lubricants and fluids

6

Tools and working facilities

7

Routine maintenance

9

Jacking and towing

11

Chapter 1

Engine

12

Chapter 2

Cooling system

47

Chapter 3 Fuel system and carburation

56

Chapter 4

Ignition system

67

Chapter 5

Clutch

75

Chapter 6

Transmission

84

Chapter 7

Driveshafts and universal joints

112

Chapter 8

Final drive (differential)

117

Chapter 9

Braking system

122

Chapter 10

Electrical system

139

Chapter 11

Suspension and steering

165

Chapter 12

Bodywork and fittings

184

Chapter 13 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models

202

Safety first!

274

Fault diagnosis

275

Conversion factors

278

Index

279

Introduction to the Austin Allegro The Austin Allegro range of models was introduced in May 1973, being powered by either an 1100ce or 1300ce overhead valve engine, or a 1500ce or 1750cce overhead camshaft engine, the latter type of model being the subject of this Manual, For

the

Special

more

enthusiastic

occupied

driver,

the performance

the

end

1750

Sport

of the range,

and

Sport

these

being

replaced in September 1974 by the Sport TC and HL models both fitted with twin carburettors. The luxury model of the range was introduced under the Vanden Plas badge in September 1974: this was based on the Allegro 1500 model, but fitted with luxury trim and accessory items.

This

continued

until

the

introduction

of

the

Allegro

3

range in September 1979. With the ‘3’ range, there are two Vanden Plas models. The 1.5 (previously the 1500) is available with manual transmission, whereas the 1.7 is only available with automatic transmission. In June 1975, an Estate version of the 1500 model was introduced,

and

in

October

of

that

year,

after

many

modifi

cations to suspension, ventilation, trim, ete, the complete range was designated Allegro 2. At this stage, the 1750 Sport TC was discontinued, leaving the HL model to continue as the 1750ce model. In 1978, a special LE version (Limited Edition) of the 1500

was

introduced,

Only 6800 of metallic paint

based

on

the

Super

four-door

model.

these cars were produced, and they featured a finish and a host of fitted ‘extras’. This was

followed,

Equipe

in July

1979,

a limited

by the announcement

edition

version

of the

of the two-door

1750

model.

It is

very distinctive and was offered only in a metallic silver finish with black trim and sweeping broad side stripes in contrasting colours.

In September 1979, the Allegro 3 was announced. The designations of 1500 and 1750 were replaced by 1.5 and 1.7 respectively. The whole Allegro range was considerably increased (by no fewer than five extra models), In the 1.5 and 1.7 sectors of the range there were five different Saloon models (all with four doors) to choose from; some have manual gearboxes, and others are fitted with automatic transmission. In fact, three versions of the 1.7 model range are so equipped, including

the 1.7 Estate (three-door). The other Estate model which fits into this market sector is the 1.5 L, which has a manual gearbox. The new 1.5 models feature an uprated engine of 1485cc fitted with twin carburettors; however, all automatic models have only one carburettor.

In the Allegro 3 models, the most significant changes have been in trim and fittings rather than mechanical features. There are new

black

bumpers

and all 1.5 and 1.7 models have new full

size wheel trims. All models have a front air spoiler and HL versions have four round headlamps. The interior trim has been given a facelift as has the instrument panel and noise insulation. The 1100ce and 1300ce models are the subject of a separate Haynes Owners Workshop Manual,

Buying spare parts and vehicle

identification

Buying spare parts Spare

BL

parts

garages,

are

other

available

accessory

from

many

shops,

and

sources,

motor

for example:

factors,

Our

advice regarding spare parts is as follows:

Officially appointed BL garages — This is the best source of parts which are peculiar to your car and otherwise not generally available (eg complete cylinder heads, internal gearbox components, badges, interior trim ete). It is also the only place at which you should buy parts if your car is still under warranty; non-BL parts may invalidate the warranty. To be sure of obtaining the correct parts it will always be necessary to give the storeman your car's engine and chassis number, and if possible, to take the old part along for positive identification. Many parts are available under a factory exchange scheme — any parts returned should always be clean. It obviously makes good sense

to go straight to the specialists on your car for this type of part for they are best equipped to supply you, Other garages and accessory shops — These are often very good places to buy material and components needed for the Maintenance of your car (eg oil filters, spark plugs, bulbs, drivebelts, Oils and grease, touch-up paint, filler paste ete), They also sell accessories, usually have convenient opening hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home, Motor tactors — Good factors stock all of the more import-

numbers ant components which wear out relatively quickly (eg clutch components, pistons and liners, valves, exhaust systems, brake pipes/seals and pads, etc), Motor factors will often provide new or reconditioned components on a part exchange basis — this can save a considerable amount of money.

Vehicle identification numbers Modifications are a continuing and unpublished process in vehicle manufacture quite apart from major model changes. Spare parts manuals and lists are compiled upon a numerical! basis, the individual vehicle numbers being essential to correct identification of the component required, When ordering spare parts, always give as much information as possible. Quote the car model, year of manufacture, body and engine numbers as appropriate. Commission number: Located on a plate mounted on the right-hand side of the bonnet lock platform, Car number: Located on a plate mounted on the right-hand

side of the bonnet lock platform, Engine number: Stamped on the cylinder block or an a metal plate secured to the cylinder block between the ignition coil and distributor, Body number: Stamped on a plate fixed to the left-hand side of the bonnet lock platform,

Allegro 3 1.5 HL

HI3626

Recommended

lubricants and fluids

Component

Lubricant or fluid

Castrol product

Engine (1)

SAE 20w/50 multigrade oil

GTX

Final drive (2)

SAE 20w/50 multigrade oil

GTX

| SAE 20w/50 multigrade oil

GTX

Carburettor dashpot (4)...

SAE 20w/50 multigrade oil

GTX

Accelerator pedal fulcrum (5) ...

SAE 20w/50 multigrade oil

GTX

Distributor cam and weights (6)

SAE 20w/50 multigrade oil

GTX

Steering joints and swivels (7) ...

Lithium grease

LM Grease

Handbrake cable (8)

Lithium grease

LM Grease

Rear wheel bearings

Lithium grease

LM Grease

Front wheel bearings

Lithium grease

LM Grease

Brake master cylinder

SAE J1703 fluid ...

Girling Universal Brake and Clutch Fluid

SAE J1703 fluid ...

Girling Universal Brake and Clutch Fluid

Gearbox (including automatic transmission) (3)

Clutch master cylinder

...

Tools and working facilities Introduction

Repair and overhaul! tool kit

A selection of good tools is a fundamental requirement for anyone contemplating the maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle. For the owner who does not possess any, their purchase

will prove a considerable expense, offsetting some of the savings made by doing-it-yourself. However, provided that the tools purchased are of good quality, they will last for many years and Prove an extremely worthwhile investment. To help the average owner to decide which tools are needed to carry out the various tasks detailed in this manual, we have compiled three lists of tools under the following headings: Maintenance and minor repair, Repair and overhaul, and Special. The newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit and confine himself to the simpler jobs around the vehicle. Then, as his confidence and experience grows, he can undertake more difficult tasks, buying extra tools as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a Maintenance and minor repair tool kit can be built-up into a Repair and overhaul tool kit over a considerable period of time without any major cash outlays. The experienced do-it-yourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the Specia/ category when he feels the expense is justified by the amount of use to which these tools will be put. It is obviously not possible to cover the subject of tools fully here. For those who wish to learn more about tools and their use there is a book entitled How to Choose and Use Car Tools available from the publishers of this manual.

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit The tools given in this list should be considered as a minimum requirement if routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair operations are to be undertaken. We recommend the Purchase of combination spanners (ring one end, open-ended the other); although more expensive than open-ended ones, they do give the advantages of both types of spanner.

Combination 15/16 AF

spanners

—

7/16,

%, 9/16,

5/8,

Adjustable spanner —9 in Engine sump/gearbox drain plug key

Spark plug spanner (with rubber insert) Spark plug gap adjustment too/ Set of feeler gauges Brake adjuster spanner Brake bleed nipple spanner Screwdriver — 4 in long x % in dia (flat blade) Screwdriver — 4 in long x % in dia (cross blade) Combination pliers — 6 in

Hacksaw (junior) Tyre pump Tyre pressure gauge Grease gun Oil can Fine emery cloth (1 sheet)

Wire brush (small) Funnel (medium size)

%,

13/16,

These

tools

are

virtually

essential

any major repairs to a motor vehicle, given in the Maintenance and minor list is a comprehensive set of sockets. sive they will be found invaluable

for anyone

undertaking

and are additional to those repair \ist. Included in this Although these are expenas they are so versatile —

Particularly if various drives are included in the set. We recommend the % in square-drive type, as this can be used with most proprietary torque wrenches. If you cannot afford a socket set, even

bought

piecemeal,

then

inexpensive

tubular

box spanners

need

to be supple-

are a useful alternative. The

tools

in this

list will

occasionally

mented by tools from the Special list.

Sockets (or box spanners) to cover range in previous list

Reversible ratchet drive (for use with sockets) Extension piece,

10 in (for use with sockets)

Universal joint (for use with sockets) Torque wrench (for use with sockets) Mole wrench — 8 in Ball pein hammer Soft-faced hammer, plastic or rubber

Screwdriver — 6 in long x 5/16 in dia (flat blade) Screwdriver — 2 in long x 5/16 in square (flat blade) Screwdriver — 1% in long x % in dia (cross blade)

Screwdriver — 3 in long x 1/8 in dia (electricians) Pliers Pliers Pliers Cold

— electricians side cutters — needle nosed — circlip (internal and external) chisel — % in

Scriber Scraper Centre punch Pin punch Hacksaw Valve grinding tool Steel rule/straight-edge Allen keys

Selection of files

Wire brush (large) Axle-stands

Jack (strong scissor or hydraulic type)

Special tools The tools in this list are those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturers’ instructions. Unless relatively difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken frequently, it will not be econ-

omical to buy many of these tools. Where this is the case, you could consider clubbing together with friends (or joining a motorists’ club) to make a joint purchase, or borrowing the tools against a deposit from a local garage or tool hire specialist. The following list contains only those tools and instruments freely available

to the public, and not those special tools prod-

uced by the vehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealer network. You will find occasional references to these manufacturers’ special tools in the text of this manual. Generally, an

8

Tools and working facilities

alternative method of doing the job without the vehicle manufacturer’s special tool is given. However, sometimes, there Is no alternative to using them. Where this is the case and the relevant tool cannot be bought or borrowed, you will have to

Spanner Jaw gap comparison table

entrust the work

0.250

Ys in AF

0.276

7mm

to a franchised garage.

Valve spring compressor Piston ring compressor Balljoint separator

Universal hub/bearing puller /mpact screwdriver Micrometer and/or vernier gauge Dial gauge Stroboscopic timing light Dwell angle meter/tachometer Universal electrical mu/ti-meter Cylinder compression gauge

Lifting tackle (photo) Trolley jack Light with extension lead

Buying tools For practically he

will

have

a

all tools,

very

a tool factor is the best source since

comprehensive

range

compared

with

the

average garage or accessory shop. Having said that, accessory shops often offer excellent quality tools at discount prices, so it pays to shop around. Remember, you don’t have to buy the most expensive items on the shelf, but it is always advisable to steer clear of the very cheap tools. There are plenty of good tools around at reasonable prices, so ask the proprietor or manager of the shop for advice before making a purchase.

Care and maintenance of tools Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is necessary to keep the tools in a clean serviceable condition. After use, always wipe off any dirt, grease and metal particles using a clean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away. Never leave them lying around after they have been used. A simple tool rack on the garage or workshop wall, for items such as screwdrivers and pliers is a good idea. Store all normal spanners and sockets in a metal box. Any measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc, must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged or become rusty. Take a little care when tools are used. Hammer heads inevitably become marked and screwdrivers lose the keen edge on their blades from time to time. A little timely attention with emery cloth or a file will soon restore items like this to a good serviceable finish.

Jaw gap (in)

Spanner size

Osis

5/16 in AF

0.315

8mm

0.344 0.354 0375

11/32 9mm

in AF; 1/8 in Whitworth

3/8 in AF

0.394

10 mm

0.433

11mm

0.438

7/16 in AF

0.445 0.472

3/16 in Whitworth; 12mm

% in BSF

0.500

Y in AF

O12 0.525 0.551

13 mm Y. in Whitworth; 5/16 in BSF 14mm

0.563

9/16 in AF

0.591

15mm

0.600 0.625

5/16 in Whitworth; 3/8 in BSF 5/8 in AF

0.630 0.669

16mm 17 mm

0.686 0.709 0.710 0.748 0.750 0.813 0.820 0.866 0.875 0.920 0.938 0.945 1.000 1.010 1.024

11/16in AF 18 mm 3/8 in Whitworth; 7/16 in BSF 19 mm %a in AF 13/16 in AF 7/16 in Whitworth; % in BSF 22 mm 7/8 in AF Y% in Whitworth; 9/16 in BSF 15/16 in AF 24mm 1 in AF 9/16 in Whitworth; 5/8 in BSF 26 mm

1.063

1.1/16in AF; 27 mm

1.100 1.125 1.181 1.200

5/8 in Whitworth; 11/16 in BSF 1.1/8in AF 30 mm 11/16in Whitworth;% in BSF

Working facilities Not

to be forgotten

itself. If anything carried out, some

more form

when

discussing tools, is the workshop

than routine maintenance of suitable working area

is to be becomes

essential.

It is appreciated that many an owner mechanic is forced by circumstances to remove an engine or similar item, without the benefit of a garage or workshop. Having done this, any repairs should always be done under the cover of a roof. Wherever possible, any dismantling should be done on a clean, flat workbench or table at a suitable working height. Any workbench needs a vice: one with a jaw opening of

4 in (100

mm)

is suitable

for most

jobs. As mentioned

pre-

viously, some clean dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as for lubricants, cleaning fluids, touch-up paints and so on which become necessary. Another item which may be required, and which has a much more general usage, is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of

at least 5/16 in (8 mm). This, together with a good range of twist drills, is virtually essential for fitting accessories such as mirrors and reversing lights. Last, but not least, always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean, lint-free rags available, and try to keep any working area as clean as possible.

A Haltrac hoist and gantry in use during a typical engine removal sequence

Routine

maintenance

Introduction

6,000 miles (10,000 km) or 6 months interval

1 In the schedule that follows this introduction the routine maintenance that should be carried out is tabulated. Routine maintenance has two important functions: First, is that of

making

adjustments

it to ensure

the

and lubricating those parts which

least

wear

and

greatest

efficiency.

require But the

second function, could almost be the more important. By !ooking over your Car On top and

underneath, you have the oppor-

tunity to check that all is in order. 2 Every compartment should be looked at, working systematically over the whole car. Dirt cracking near a nut or flange can indicate something loose. Leaks will show up clearly, as will electric cables rubbing and rust appearing through damaged paintwork or underseal. All these things, and more, should be found before they bring on a failure on the road, or an expensive repair. 3 The tasks to be done on the car are in general those recommended by the manufacturer. We have aiso put in some

additional

ones.

For someone

having his servicing done at a

Qarage tt may be more economical to purchase, and fit, a new or reconditioned component. Your garage proprietor has many

things to consider when giving you a quote for any work, (eg. labour

costs,

availability

of his labour

force, overheads

etc)

you may therefore make considerable savings in time and costs provided you know you are capable of tackling the job and are prepared to do it. To leave an obviously developing fault ‘until the next service’ may prove costly and even disastrous - do it now! 4 When you are checking the car, if something looks wrong, look it up in the appropriate Chapter. If something seems to be working badly look in the relevant fault finding section. 5 Always road-test after a repair. Then re-inspect your work, checking nuts etc. for tightness. Check again after about 150

miles (250 km).

Weekly Check coolant level Check engine transmission oil level

Check battery electrolyte leve! Check

tyre pressures.

Examine

tread depth

and generally

for other signs of damage. Check operation of all lights Check windscreen washer fluid level _ Check brake and clutch master cylinder reservoir hydraulic fluid levels Check tightness of road wheel nuts

Change engine/transmission unit oil. Fit new filter. Top-uo carburettor piston damper. Check carburettor settings and adjust if necessary. Carefully examine all cooling system and heater hoses for perishing or leaks. Check hose clip security. Lubricate accelerator control linkage and pedal fulcrum with a little engine oil.

Clean and reset spark plugs. Check condition of contact breaker necessary. Clean and reset to correct gap.

_ _

Check water mecessary.

pump

drive

belt

tension

and

adjust

if

Check steering and suspension systems for oil leaks.

_ Check steering unit joints for security, backlash and gaiter

and aoply petroleum jelly to terminals. Check efficiency of charging system. Ciean oil filler cap. Clean front and rear suspension attachments for security.

lf wished,

change

round

the

roadwheels

12,000 miles (20,000 km) or 12 months interval Fit new spark plugs.

Check operation of starter motor cable attachments .

and all attachments.

and the tightness of all

Check tightness of door locks, catches and hinges. Check steering assembly attachments for security. Check operation of brake vacuum servo unit.

Also check ignition LT leads for security.

Renew the brake fluid in the entire braking system.

ck specific gravity of battery electrolyte. Check headlight beam alignment and reset as necessary. and

renew

if worn

or

fisually inspect clutch hydraulic pipes and unions for signs

chafing, leaks or corrosion.

Check exhaust system for security and also for leaks. ‘condition and security of seats and seat belts. brake servo hose for condition.

Check HT leads for damage and secure connections.

18,000 miles (30,000 km) or 18 months interval

_ @s necessary.

_ Check operation of horns and windscreen wipers.

blades

a diagonal

Check engine/transmission unit for oil leaks. Check rear wheel bearing endfloat. Check brake pads and linings for wear. Inspect discs and drums for wear and scoring. Check connections between fuel filler pipe and fuel tank. Road test the car and check all components and instruments for correct operation. Renew air cleaner element. Renew engine breather filter (on clutch housing).

Tune engine using electronic test equipment.

wiper

in

manner aiso using the spare to equalise wear. This is not advised if radial tyres are fitted. Balance front wheels. Generally check all electrical cables for damage and the connections for security.

Visually inspect brake hydraulic pipes and unions for signs of chafing, leaks and corrosion. Check brake pedal travel and handbrake operation. Adjust

windscreen

if

Lubricate distributor parts.

{oil seal) condition.

kK

renew

Check and reset ignition timing preferably using a strobe light. Check front wheel alignment and if necessary reset. Lubricate steering and suspension grease nipples. Lubricate handbrake mechanical linkage and cables. Lubricate ail door bonnet and boot locks and hinges with a little engine oil. Check all fuel lines and joints for leakage. Check tightness of clips. Check tightness of cylinder head and manifold attachments. Check tightness of battery connections. Clean off corrosion

Check tightness of engine mountings

3,000 miles (5,000 km) or 3 months interval

points,

36,000 miles (60,000 km) or 3 years interval Fit new brake servo filter element. Renew all fluid séals and flexible hoses in the hydraulic braking system. Examine the pistons and bores in the wheel cylinders and

master cylinder and slave cylinder for wear and renew any

worn components.

4

Routine maintenance

10

Other aspects of Routine Maintenance 1

Wheel nuts

These should be cleaned and lightly smeared with grease as necessary during work, to keep them moving easily. If the nuts are stubborn to undo due to dirt and overtightening, it may be necessary to hold them by lowering the jack until the wheel rests on the ground. Normally if the wheel brace is used across the hub centre, a foot or knee held against the tyre will prevent the wheel from turning, and so save the wheels and nuts from wear if the nuts are slackened with weight on the wheel. After replacing a wheel make a point of later rechecking the nuts again for tightness.

2

Safety

Whenever car securely.

working, even partially, under the car, support the

H.16B 372.

A. Engine/manual transmission oil drain plug

3

Cleanliness

Whenever you do any work allow time the component is in pieces. Parts removed to other areas, give an opportunity for This cleanliness will allow you to cope the road without getting yourself too dirty. when you expect a bit of dirt it can be

for cleaning when to improve access a thorough clean. with a crisis on During bigger jobs tolerated, at least whilst removing a component. When an item is being taken to pieces there is less risk of ruinous grit finding its way inside, if it has first been cleaned externally. The act of cleaning focuses your attention onto parts and you are more likely to spot trouble. Dirt on the ignition system is a common cause of poor starting. Large areas such as the engine compartment

inner wings or bulkhead

should

be brushed

thoroughly

with

a

proprietary cleaning agent, allowed to soak and then very carefully hosed down. Water in the wrong places, particularly the carburettor or electrical components will do more harm than dirt. Use petrol or paraffin and a small paintbrush to clean the more inaccessible places.

4 Waste disposal Old oil and cleaning paraffin must be destroyed. Although it makes a good base for a bonfire the practice is dangerous. It

Hl16172 B. Engine/automatic transmission oil drain plug is also illegal to dispose of oil and paraffin down domestic drains. By buying your new engine oil in one gallon cans you can refill with old oil and take back to the local garage who have facilities for disposal or recycling of the oil.

5

Long journeys

Before taking the car on long journeys, particularly such trips as continental holidays make sure that the car is given a full visual inspection well in advance so that any faults found can be rectified in time.

Jacking and towing Serious

body

distortion

can result if Allegro

models are not

Note:

Do

not

use

the front

slinging

bracket

as it will be

jacked-up correctly. Always abide by the following information.

damaged so preventing use of the jack supplied with the car.

Standard car jack

Rear: Rear reinforcement channel, is made to fit inside the channel.

Front: The jack supplied with the car must be placed under the front slinging bracket at either side of the car with the leg on the top face of the jack registered in the outer hole in the

slinging bracket and the lugs of the jack head located around the

provided

that a wooden

block

bracket. Rear:Position

Towing

forcement

Fig. 5). They are an integral part of the front suspension tie-bar

the jack under the rear suspension reinchannel with the rear face of the jack head hitting

against the rear tongues of the reinforcement channel and the lugs of the jack head located around the inner and outer faces of the channel. Do not use the rear slinging brackets as jacking points.

Workshop jack When using jacking points.

a trolley

jack the following

may

be used

as

Front: using

a shaped

Fig. 1 Use of jack for raising front of

wooden

eyes are provided

at the front of the car only (see

brackets. Note: The eyes at the rear of the body are NOT for towing. They are designed for lashing the car down only. On cars with automatic transmission, the car must be towed with the front wheels off the ground if the distance involved is over 20 miles (32 km). Due to the construction of the Allegro, this suspension of the front wheels must be by means of a trailer type ‘ambulance’ and not by a normal suspended tow. Better still, use a full size recovery trailer and lash the car to it using the front towing hooks and rear eyes. For short distances

however,

a) Suspension wishbones at their outer ends b) Front longitudinal reinforcements block on the jack saddle.

Towing

select Neutral

(N) and tow the car slowly. Note: Do

not exceed 30 MPH (48 KMh). the engine oil level is correct.

Fig. 2 Use of jack for raising rear of

car

Ensure, before starting off, that

Fig. 3 Jacking point for workshop

jack - Front (use wooden block between jack and body member).

H \3237 HI3627

Fig. 4 Jacking point for workshop jack

- Rear (use wooden block between jack and body member).

Fig. 5 Towing eye (1) on tie-bar bracket The eyes at the rear are for lashing only

Chapter

1 Engine

For modifications, and information applicable to later models, see Supplement at end of manual Contents

Camshaft and camshaft bearings - examination and renovation 34 Camshaft and tappets - refitting 51

Camshaft and tappets - removal Chain tensioner - dismantling Chain tensioner - removal _ Connecting rods and gudgeon pins- examination ane

11 2 14

renovation

33 47

j

Connecting rods to erankshate - relma Crankshaft and camshaft sproz':ets and chain- ea and renovation 3

inanon,

37 21 29

Crankshaft and main beating - removal: Crankshaft -examination and renovation

i

Crankshaft (main) bearing and big-end (connecting. rod) bearings -examination and renovation

5

Crankshaft pulley and vibration damper - refitting Crankshaft - replacement aie Cylinder bores - examination and Panerai Cylinder head - decarbonisation Cylinder head - removal (engine in car)

as ...

Cylinder head - removal (engine on bench) Cylinder head - replacement Distributor Distributor Engine and Engine and

:

and fuel pump driveshaft - pariceing and fuel pump driveshaft - removal transmission (automatic gearbox) - removal transmission (manual gearbox) - removal

Engine and transmission - refitting

Engine- dismantling (general) .

30 54 42 31 40 9 10 50 43

16 5

4 56 UW

Engine - examination and renoration - General) Engine- fault diagnosis.. Engine- final assembly ... ae Engine- initial start up after Cerulie or nehioe repair

28 58 55

Engine - reassembly - general Engine - refitting to transmission unit Engine - removing ancilliary components

Engine - separation from transmission Flywheel and flywheel housing - removal Flywheel starter ring - examination and renovation General description Gudgeon pins - removal Lubrication system - description Major operetions with engine rernuved Oil filter - removal and replacement Oil pressure relief valve A Oil pump - examination and renovation Oil pump - removal and dismantling Operations with engine in place Pistons and connecting rod - reassembly Pistons and piston rings - examination and renovation Piston rings - removal Piston rings - replacement Pistons, connecting rods and big-end Beanie - remenal Pistons - replacement Tappet adjustment fs Tappets -examination and Fenovation Timing chain and sprockets - removal Timing chain, crankshaft ae" and tensioner - refitting Timing chain guides - removal . Valve - removal ck Valves and valve seats- einaten era renoveHlan Valves and valve springs - reassembly ... Ventilation air filter - removal and replacement

57

Specifications

Engine general: Designation

14 H (1500) 17H (1750)

Number of cylinders

4

Bore

76.2 mm

Stroke

81.28 mm (3.2 inch), (1500)

(3.00 inch)

95.75 mm (3.77 inch), (1750) Capacity

1485 cc (90.61 inch3), (1500) 1748 cc (106.69 inch3), (1750)

Valve operation Compression ratio

Overhead camshaft (ohc)

Firing order Idle speed

0: 1 (1500) 8.75: 1 (1750) 1

...

3

4

2(No.1

at timing chain end)

750 rpm

1000 to 1100 rpm

Fast idle speed Bhp

72 at 5500 rpm (1500) 80 at 5000 rpm (1750)

Valve clearances (cold): Standard

Minimum

-

Inlet Exhaust Inlet Exhaust

0.016 to 0.018 inch (0.41 to 0.46 mm)

0.020 to 0.022 inch (0.51 to 0.56 mm) oes She

0.012 inch (0.31 mm)

0.012 inch (0.31 mm)

Chapter 1/Engine

13

ree

Camshaft: Valve timing marks

...

Camshaft sprocket and carrier marks in conjunction with flywheel marks

Inlet valve:

opens ... closes ... Exhaust valve: opens closes

9° 4' btdc* 50° 56’ abdc* 48° 56’ abdc* 11° 4’ atdc*

End-thrust Endfloat Adjustment Bearings Journal diameter:

Taken on front and locating plate

* At 0.021

0.002 tc 0.007 inch (0.05 to 0.17 mm) Renew

Ets Front

* ...

Centre Rear

Drive

inch (0.53 mm) valve clearances

locating plate

3. Run direct in aluminium carrier

1.9355 to 1.9365 inch (49.185 to 49.197 mm) 1.9668 to 1.9678 inch (49.975 to 49.987 mm) 1.998 to 1.999 inch (50.762 to 50.775 mm)

...

Chain. 3/8 inch (9.52 mm) pitch x 108 pitches

Connecting rods: TINA ee eas

ei

aes

Big end: split horizontally, small end: solid

Length between centre

Endfloat or crankpin (nominal)

5.828 to 5.832 inch (148.02 to 148.12 mm) 0.006 to 0.01 inch (0.15 to 0.25 mm)

Small end diameter ... Big end bearing material

Steel backed, reticular tin

0.811 to 0.8115 inch (20.59 to 20.61 mm)

Gudgeon pin: Type ... ae Outside diameter

Press fit in small end

0.8123 to 0.8125 (20.6 to 20.65 mm)

Pistons: Type ... Oversize a Clearance in cylinder:

Aluminium, (slotted) solid skirt 0.020 inch (0.51 mm)

Top (below oil control groove)

0.0018 to 0.0024 inch (0.045 to 0.061 mm)

Bottom

0.001 to 0.0016 inch (0.025 to 0.039 mm)

as

Width of ring grooves:

Third (1500 models)

0.064 to 0.065 inch (1.64 to 1.66 mm) 0.064 to 0.065 inch (1.64 to 1.66 mm) 0.064 to 0.065 inch (1.64 to 1.66 mm)

Oil control

0.1565 to 0.1575 inch (4.962 to 4.987 mm)

Top Second

...

bu

Piston rings: Compression Ty pe: Top Second

oa

Third (1500 only) Width:

Top vs Second is Third (1500 only) Fitted gap: Top Second ast Third (1500 only) Ring to groove clearance: Top Second ... * Third (1500 only) Oil control: Type Width Fitted gap Piston rings:

Material

(1500) (1750)

Head diameter:

0.0615 to 0.625 inch (1.55 0.0615 to 0.625 inch (1.55 0.0615 to 0.625 inch (1.55 0.011 to 0.022 inch (0.305 0.011 to 0.022 inch (0.305 0.011 to 0.022 inch (0.305

to to to to to to

1.60 1.60 1.60 0.55 0.55 0.55

mm) mm) mm) mm) mm) mm)

0.0015 to 0.0035 inch (0.03 to 0.08 mm) 0.0015 to 0.0035 inch (0.03 to 0.08 mm) 0.0015 to 0.0035 inch (0.03 to 0.08 mm) Two chrome faced rings with expander 0.100 to 0.105 inch (2.54 to 2.66 mm)

0.015 to 0.045 inch (0.38 to 1.14 mm) Sintered alloy Spun cast

Valves: Seat angle

Plain chrome Tapered Tapered

45%0

-

|

Exhaust

1.5 inch (38.1 mm) 1.216 to 1.220 inch (30.88 to 31.04 mm)

Inlet

0.3110 to 0.3115 inch (7.89 to 7.91 mm)

Inlet

Stem diameter *:

Exhaust

Stem to guide clearance:

Inlet Exhaust

Stem diameter **:

Inlet Exhaust

0.3100 to 0.3105 inch (7.87 to 7.89 mm)

0.002 inch (0.051 mm) 0.003 inch (0.076 mm) 0.3115 to 0.3120 inch (7.91 to 7.93 mm) 3.115 to 0.3120 inch (7.91 to 7.93 mm)

Chapter 1 Engine

Ie Stem to guide clearance **:

Inlet Exhaust

Valve lift x. Runningclearance:

wa ee ae Inlet ... 55 Exhaust aa Valve timing clearance: Inlet... Exhaust * Early engines up to engine number

os )...

“ks oe

ee i

as .

ie oe at #

_ me s ies

a sits a. a)

bi a. a: fis

0.021 inch (0.53 mm)

14H/283EH/39163,

** | ater engines from engine numbers

0.0015 inch (0.038 mm) 0.0015 inch (0.038 mm) 0.36 (0.914 mm) 0.018 inch (0.46 mm) 0.022 inch (0.56 mm) 0.021 inch (0.53 mm)

14H/288EH/1102

14H/283EH/39164,

14H/288EH/1103

Valve springs: Free length...

.

ae

as

Pa

te

se

Ag

Fitted length

as

aa

44

a

bd

ae

*

1.38 inch (35.05 mm)

ste et

ee oe

oe be!

_ fs

B shy

ce Pe

96 Ibs (43.5 kg) 52 Ibs (23.6 kg)

a

3

=

dee

=

=

On boss of camshaft sprocket and camshaft housing. Also on

Load at top of lift... Load at fitted length

Valve timing marks:

1.797 inch (45.70 mm)

flywheel

Oil pump: Type ... a. as Outer ring endfloat Inner rotor endfloat

a 2% =

Outer ring to body clearance Rotor lobe clearance ae

os of =

ii “ 23

e se ie

ee -

a is *z ot ss

ue ue

ae se -_ ee

Concentric (serviced as a unit) 0.004 to 0.005 inch (0.10 to 0.12 mm) 0.0045 to 0.0055 inch (0.11 to 0.14 mm) 0.011 inch (0.25 mm) 0.0035 inch (0.089 mm)

Pe ae

Oil pressure: Idling ... Running

Oil filter

Ze a

os ae

an A:

= ss

a Ric

5 ans

ate we

As we

15 Ib/sq in 60 !b/sq in

a

ve

an

oe

a

‘S

a

x

Purolator full flow, paper element

Mk 1 and 2 models

...

a

ae

nae

ae

Pee

Res

Purolator full flow, paper element or disposable cartridge type

Allegro 3 models

Mag

a

ed

ke

ies

es

ae

Disposable cartridge type

Engine sump with filter (manual gearbox) Oil filter as wis ies sist ame

mre as

oe gee

ass es

9% pints, 5.6 litres 1 pint, 0.6 litre

Oil type

ie

ve

vs

Oil capacity (total):

“ve

a

Te

bs

ES

Torque wrench settings: Oil filter bolt as Cylinder head bolts ... Lifting bracket set screws

SAE 20w/50 Multigrade

Ib f ft

kg fm

es a ...

an ay ve

x es =

she Pes ae

ee eH es

es a me

20 60 30

Zo 8.3 4.1

Cam carrier to cylinder head Camshaft sprocket ... is Camshaft cover es nae

se ss An

aS eee ae

ae see Pt

ae = Bee

x ase ee

20 35 6

2.8 4.8 0.8

Thermostat housing to cylinder head Water outlet elbow ... ae oe

Ae ss

a Pes

tee a

as ee

8 to 10 8 to 10

1.1 to 1.4 1.1 to 1.4

Manifold to cylinder head Adaptor plugs a Carburettor studs...

... HA a%

cer es Bs

ere st fee

oe vas See

tA ss ses

ae 3 —

18 to 20 30 6to8

2.5 to 2.8 4.1 0.8 to 1.1

Water pump set screws

ar

iPr

AK

+

=

oe

18 to 20

2.5 to 2.8

Plug- water pump body Pulley ia Front cover - studs ... Front cover- nuts...

_... ve Ags Aes

hte By oe aes

ate Ae a te

iE ies ne a

ne oh “a ae

Ae aon ae see

35 18 6 17 to 19

4.8 2.5 0.8 2.4 to 2.6

Petrol pump - studs ... ne Petrol pump- nuts... ss Flywheel housing- studs... Flywheel housing- nuts... Flywheel housing - set screws Crankshaft pulley bolt oe Timing cover Pv ae Timing chain guide strips...

os eo a = rae =. eee ae

ay “a Bes oa es abe oe ase

ae ee ae es A: one

oes ae are wis as ae

ee a ae = os ae

6 15 6 17 17 60

0.8 ZArtor 0.8 2.4 to 2.4 to 8.3 to

=e

a5

As

18 to 20

2.5 to 2.8

Pivot pin

oe

Ase

Ae

ae

a

Ee By

as ae

a8

18 to 20 18 to 20

2.5 to 2.8 2.5 to 2.8

Big-end nuts

...

to 18

; to 19 to 19 to 70

25

2.6 2.6 9.7

ee

iss

ae

eae

ae

see

iia

30

4.1

Main bearing bolts... Fly wheel bolts ses

tee ace

on ee

ae Os

cee ne

oe de

ae a

70 60

9.7 8.3

Oil pump

fea

ee

=

=

as

Ese

18 to 20

2.5 to 2.8

a

Be

the car and supported by rubber mountings.

1

General description

Two valves per cylinder are mounted at an angle in the cast

The Allegro models covered by this manual are fitted with a four cylinder overhead camshaft engine, with a single SU S6

horizontal

mounted

carburettor.

It is transversely

mounted

in

iron cylinder head. They are operated by tappets in direct contact with the camshaft lobes. The cylinder head has all eight inlet and exhaust ports on ane side of the cylinder head.

15

Chapter 1/Engine The cast iron cylinder block and upper half of the crankcase are cast together, whilst the bottom half of the crankcase is incorporated within the combined transmission casing and oil

sump. The flat top pistons are made from anodised aluminium with slotted solid skirts. Three compression rings are fitted to 1500 cc engines, only two compression rings are fitted to 1750 cc engines. One oil control ring located above the gudgeon pin is fitted to both engines. The gudgeon pin is a tight press fit into the connecting

rod

small

end

and

fully

floating

in the piston

bosses. The crankshaft is machined from cast iron and runs in five main bearings. Fitted to the front of the crankshaft- is a combined torsional vibration damper and crankshaft pulley. Situated behind this is the front oil seal followed by the camshaft driving sprocket and a skew gear, in mesh with a shaft, which drives the oil pump and distributor. Located at the lower end of the shaft is a cam which operates the fuel pump via a short pushrod. At the rear end of the crankshaft is bolted the flywheel and clutch which transmits engine torque, via a single helical gear, to the transmission mounted beneath the engine. The crankshaft main bearings run in reticular tin steel backed shell bearings. Connecting the pistons to the crankshaft are four short connecting rods. The big-ends may be split horizontally like the crankshaft main bearings. The big-end bearings are of recticular tin/steel back shell design. Mounted onto the top face of the cylinder head is the aluminium casting in which the camshaft is fitted. The camshaft rotates in three bearings which are machined directly in the casting. Placed below each camshaft cam lobe is a large bore machined in the aluminium casting, and in each bore isa bucket type tappet. The hollow part of the tappet sits on the top of the valve stem and spring. There should be a clearance between the top of the tappet and cam iobe which may be adjusted by placing shims between the underside of the top of the tappet and the valve stem. The camshaft is driven by a sprocket which is twice the size of the one fitted to the crankshaft. Because of the length of drive chain, one automatic adjusting chain tensioner is used and two chain guides. The centrifugal water pump and radiator cooling fan are driven, together with the alternator, from the crankshaft pulley wheel by a rubber/fabric belt. The cooling fan is mounted on the front end of the water pump spindle.. Engine lubrication is accommodated by an oil pump which draws oil from the bottom of the transmission casing and passes it through a full-flow replaceable element oil filter and then to the oil galley and distribution drillings within the engine. Oil pressure is controlled by a non-adjustable oil relief valve which is

3

Major operations with engine removed

The following major operations can be carried out with the engine out of the car. a) Removal and replacement of the main bearings.

b) Removal and replacement of the crankshaft. c) Removal and replacement of the oil pump. d) Removal and replacement of the big-end bearings. e) Removal and replacement of the pistons and connecting rods.

f) Removal

and replacement of the camshaft drive sprocket and

chain.

a 4

se

Engine and transmission (manual gearbox) - removal

jones ee ee

The sequence of operations listed in this Section is not critical as the position of the person undertaking the work, or the tool in his hand, will determine to a certain extent the order

in which the work is tackled. Obviously, the power unit cannot be removed until everything is disconnected from following sequence will ensure nothing is forgotten.

1

Refer to Chapter 12 and remove the bonnet.

compartment.

13 Make

a note of the electrical

sender unit. 14 Undo and remove

body. 15 Slacken

Operations with engine in place

No

major

operations

can

be

carried

out

on

the Allegro

engine with it in place as it is impossible to ‘drop’ the sump. The following operations are possible however:

connections

and then detach

from the following electrical items: Starter motor, alternator, oil pressure switch, distributor, ignition coil and temperature

From the ‘Specifications’ given at the beginning of this Chapter it will be seen that two engine sizes are available, the increase in capacity being obtained by increasing the stroke.

2

the

2 Preferably whilst the engine is warm, place a container having a capacity of at least 10 pints (5.58 litres) under the transmission unit drain plug and unscrew the drain plug. This is located at the water pump end of the transmission unit casing. 3 Refer to Chapter 2 and completely drain the cooling system. 4 Refer to Chapter10 and remove the battery. 5 Undo and remove the two screws that secure the expansion tank to the battery retaining plate. 6 Make a note of the electrical connections to the horn and detach the cables. 7 Undo and remove the two bolts securing the battery support. Lift away the battery support. 8 Disconnect the electric cables from the cooling fan and thermostatic switch. 9 Slacken the clips securing the radiator hose to the thermostat housing and water pump. Lift away the top hose. 10 Slacken the clips securing the radiator bottom hose connecting pipe to the body brackets. Slide the clips to the left along the pipe. 11 Undo and remove the two bolts that secure the radiator top securing bracket. 12 The radiator assembly complete with connecting pipe and expansion tank may now be lifted away from the engine

located in the transmission casing just below the filter head.

Any references in the text to the left-hand side or right-hand side of the engine are applicable when sitting in the driver's seat. The front of the engine is the side nearest to the front grille and the rear is that nearest the bulkhead.

it and

the

hose

the bolt that secures the earth strap to the

clips

and

detach

the

hoses

from

the

heater connection on the bulkhead. 16 Slacken the clip and detach the fuel supply hose from the carburettor. Also detach the fuel supply pipe. 17 Disconnect the vacuum advance pipe and also the breather hose from the carburettor.

18 Detach the throttle return spring from the throttle cable linkage and throttle abutment bracket. 19 Undo and remove the four nuts securing the throttle abutment bracket. Lift away the bracket and then the carburettor with air cleaner from the inlet manifold. Place to one side of the engine compartment. 20 The insulation block and heat shield should next be removed from the manifold. 21 Undo and remove the banjo-bolt securing the servo pipe to

the inlet manifold. Recover the two copper washers. Move the a b) c) d)

Removal Removal Removal Removal

and and and and

replacement replacement replacement replacement

of of of of

the cylinder head assembly. camshaft and carrier. clutch and flywheel. engine mountings.

servo pipe clear of the engine. 22 Undo and remove the two bolts and spring washers securing

the clutch

slave cylinder to the flywheel housing. Part the slave cylinder from the operating rod and move clear of the

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Chapter

18

1 Engine

ee

engine. It is not necessary to detach the flexible hose. 23 Undo and remove the two nuts and bolts securing the exhaust pipe clamp halves at the manifold to downpipe connection. Detach the downpipe from the manifold. 24 The speedometer cable should next be detached from the

transmission casing. Unscrew the knurled cable. 25 Check the rear wheels, jack-up the

nut and withdraw the

front of the car and support on firmly based axle stands located between the front longitudinal members. 26 Working under the car remove the roll pin securing the extension rod to the selector shaft using a suitable diameter parallel pin punch. 27 Undo and remove the nut, bolt and spacing washers securing

the steady rod to the final drive housing. 28 The driveshafts must now be released from their locator rings in the differential unit. For full information refer to Chapter 7, Section 2. 29 The weight of the complete power unit must now be taken from the mountings and for this an overhead hoist or crane must be used.

30 Undo

and remove the nuts securing the tie-rod assembly on

the passenger's side of the body, away the tie-rod assembly from cylinder head.

next remove the bolt and lift the bracket mounted on the

31 Repeat the sequence in paragraph 30 for the tie-rod assembly on the driver's side. 32 Undo and remove the four bolts securing the left-hand mounting

and safety bracket to the bracket which is attached to

the gearbox casing. 33 Undo and remove

the two bolts securing the right-hand mounting to the bracket which is attached to the clutch cover. 34 Undo and remove the four nuts and bolts securing the righthand engine mounting to the longitudinal member. Lift away the

10 Chock

the differential unit. 37 Move the power unit to the right-hand

side of the car and

disengage the left-hand side driveshaft. 38 The power unit may now be lifted up and away

from

the

engine compartment.

39 Thoroughly wash the exterior with paraffin or grease solvent. Rinse off with a strong water jet and dry thoroughly. The engine may now be separated from the transmission as described in Chapter 6.

5

Engine

and

transmission

(automatic

gearbox)

- removal

1 Refer to Section 4 and follow the instructions given in paragraphs 1 to 18 inclusive. 2 Disconnect the breather hose from the cylinder head cover. 3 Undo and remove the nut and disconnect the accelerator rod from the kick-down bellcrank lever. 4 Undo and remove the four nuts securing the carburettor to the inlet manifold. Lift away the carburettor, accelerator cable abutment bracket and air cleaner, move to one side of the engine compartment. 5 Remove the carburettor distance pieces, gaskets and heat shield from the inlet manifold. 6 Undo and remove the banjo bolt securing the servo pipe to the inlet manifold. Recover the two copper washers. Move the servo pipe clear of the engine.

7

Undo

and

remove

the

two

nuts

and

bolts

securing

the

exhaust pipe clamp halves at the manifold to downpipe connection. 8 Undo and remove the two nuts and release the exhaust pipe from the bracket on the transmission unit. 9 The speedometer should be detached from the governor housing on the side of the automatic transmission unit.

rear

wheels,

jack

up

the

front

of

the

car

and

12 Undo and remove the bolt securing the transmission control cable retainer to the casing. 13 Undo the two control cable adjustment locking nuts and pull the outer cables from the transmission casing. 14 The control inner cable may now de disconnected from the valve block detent rod and the park lockrod. 15 Make a note of the electrical cable connections at the starter inhibitor switch and detach the cables. 16 Refer to the Chapter 7, Section 2 and unlock the driveshafts from the final drive. 17 The front of the car should now be lowered to the ground. 18 The weight of the complete power unit must now be taken

from the mountings and for this an overhead hoist or crane must be used. 19 Undo and remove the two nuts and bolts securing the left-hand tie-rod to the engine and body. 20 Undo and remove the two nuts and bolts securing the right-hand tie-rod to the engine and body. 21 Undo and remove the four bolts securing the right-hand mounting to the bracket on the torque converter end cover. 22 Undo and remove the four bolts and one nut securing the right-hand mounting bracket to the body. 23 Undo and remove the four bolts securing the left-hand mounting bracket on the governor housing. 24 Undo and remove the four bolts and one nut securing the left-hand mounting bracket to the body. 25 Final removal is basically identical to that for the manual transmission. Refer to Section 4, paragraphs 35 to 39 inclusive.

6

engine mounting. 35 Using the overhead

hoist raise the complete power unit slightly and then move to the left-hand side of the car as far as possible. 36 The right-hand driveshaft should now be disengaged from

the

support on axle stands located between the longitudinal members. 11 Move the selector lever to the ‘D’ position.

Engine - separation from transmission Full information of this operation is given in Chapter 6.

7

Engine - dismantling (genera!)

1 It is best to mount the engine on a dismantling stand, but if this is not available, stand the engine on a strong bench at a comfortable working height. Failing this, it can be stripped down on the floor. 2 During the dismantling process, the greatest care should be taken to keep the exposed parts free from dirt. As an aid to achieving this thoroughly clean down the outside of the engine, first removing all traces of oil and congealed dirt. 3 A good grease solvent will make the job much easier, for, after the solvent has been applied and allowed to stand for a time, a vigorous jet of water will wash off the solvent and the grease with it. If the dirt is thick and deeply embedded, work the solvent into it with a strong stiff brush. 4 Finally wipe down the exterior of the engine with a rag and only then, when it is quite clean, should the dismantling process begin. As the engine is stripped, clean each part in a bath of paraffin or petrol. 5 Never immerse parts with oilways in paraffin, eg. crankshaft. To clean these parts, wipe down carefully with a_ petrol dampened rag. Oilways can be cleaned out with nylon pipe cleaners. If an air line is available, all parts can be blown dry and the oilways blown through as an added precaution.

6 Re-use possibility

of old gaskets is false economy. To avoid the of trouble after the engine has been reassembled

always use new gaskets throughout.

7 Do not throw the old gaskets away, for sometimes it happens that an immediate replacement cannot be found and the old gasket is then very useful as a template. Hang up the gaskets as they are removed. 8 To strip the engine, it is best to work from the top down. The crankcase provides a firm base on which the engine can be supported in an upright position. When the stage is reached where the crankshaft must be removed, the engine can be turned

Chapter 1/Engine On its side and all other work carried out with it in this position. 9 Wherever possible, replace nuts, bolts and washers finger tight from wherever they were removed. This helps to avoid loss and muddle. If they cannot be replaced, then lay them out in such a fashion that it is clear from whence they came.

8

a)

heater

Fuel system components Carburettor and manifold assembly Fuel pump Fuel lines

hoses

to

18 The

Spark plugs Distributor Coil and mounting bracket c) Electrical system components Alternator Starter motor

marks

21 Undo

All nuts and bolts associated with the foregoing. Some of these items have to be removed for individual servicing or renewal periodically and details can be found under the appropriate Chapter.

Cylinder head - removal (engine in car)

now

the

flywheel

are

in alignment

1 cylinder

on

commencement

number

be

turned

until

the

timing

with

the

of

the

(photo). Lift away the air cleaner. 2 Detach the distributor automatic advance/retard pipe from the distributor vacuum unit and the induction side of the carburettor body. Lift away the pipe. 3 Detach the engine breather hose from the camshaft cover. 4 With a pair of pliers, compress the ears of the clip holding the fuel supply hose to the float chamber union. Pull off the fuel supply hose.

the throttle

return

spring is fitted and unhook the spring. Put the spring in a safe place. 6 Release the throttle cable connector from the cable by

drawing

on the converter

with the pointer.

remove

the bolt and spring washer

to

the

camshaft

and

detach

securing the the sprocket

the cylinder head securing bolts in a diagonal and

23 The cylinder head may now be removed by lifting upwards. If the head is jammed, try to rock it to break the seal. Under no circumstances

with

the connector from

Pull the throttle outer cable from its support bracket.

8 Slacken the choke cable connector centre screw and pull the inner cable from the connector. Lift away the connector

(photo). 9 Undo the brake servo unit pipe union bolt from the induction manifold. Lift away the union bolt and recover the two copper washers. 10 Undo and remove the two nuts, bolts and washers from the clamp securing the exhaust down pipe to the exhaust manifold.

try to prise it apart

a screwdriver

or cold

chisel,

from

the cylinder

as damage

may

block

be done to

the faces of the cylinder head and block. If the head will not readily free, turn the engine over by the flywheel using the starter motor, as the compression in the cylinders will often

break

1 Undo and remove the two nuts and spring washers securing the air cleaner to the air intake flange of the carburettor

in which

and

22 Slacken

Clutch pressure plate assembly

7

from

progressive manner until all are free from tension. Remove the ten bolts noting that because of the shape of the bolt head no washers are used.

Clutch friction plate assembly

screw and

and

should

on

camshaft sprocket from the camshaft.

Clutch

slackening the centre the end of the cable.

the hoses

20 Undo and remove the chain tensioner adaptor bolt and then, using an 1/8 inch Allen key placed through the bolt aperture, turn the tensioner plunger in a clockwise direction to retract the tensioner slipper from the chain.

Crankcase ventilation tube Oil pressure sender unit Oil level dipstick and guide tube Oil filler cap and camshaft cover Engine mountings

of the manner

Ease

19 Carefully adjust the camshaft sprocket until the camshaft timing marks are in alignment. These are to be found on the sprocket hub and adjoining bearing boss. Note that a six-holed sprocket has its timing mark on the front face.

e) Engine

a note

tdce

the zero mark

Electric fan Water pump Thermostat housing and thermostat Water temperature sender unit

Make

housing.

firing stroke. The marks can be seen once the timing cover has been removed. When automatic transmission is fitted line up

Radiator and mountings

5

crankshaft

1/4

pointer,

d) Cooling system components

9

thermostat

13 Disconnect the ‘Lucar’ terminal from the temperature gauge thermal transmitter. 14 Mark the high tension cables relative to the spark plugs for correct refitting and disconnect the four leads. 15 Undo and remove the bolts and spring washers securing the engine steady arm bracket and right-hand lifting bracket to the cylinder head. 16 Undo and remove the bolts and spring washers securing the radiator bracket and left-hand lifting bracket to the cylinder head. 17 The six shaped bolts which hold the camshaft cover to the top of the cylinder head should now be unscrewed In a progressive diagonal manner. Lift away the cover and the gasket.

b) Ignition system components

f)

to the

the thermostat housing.

Engine - removing ancillary components

Before basic engine dismantling begins, it is necessary strip it of ancillary components. These are as follows:

19

the cylinder

head

joint. If this fails to work, strike the

head sharply with a plastic headed or wooden hammer, or with a metal hammer with an interposed piece of wood to cushion

the blow. metal

Under

hammer

no circumstances as this

may

cause

hit the head directly with a the iron casting

to fracture.

Several sharp taps with the hammer, at the same time pulling upwards, should free the head. Lift the head off and place on One side.

10 Cylinder head - removal (engine on bench) The procedure for removing the cylinder head with engine on the bench is similar to that for removal when engine is in the car, with the exception of disconnecting

the the the the

controls and services. Refer to Section 9 and follow sequence given in paragraphs 12, and 15 to 22 inclusive. Instead of turning the crankshaft using the starter motor as mentioned in Section 9/23, use a large socket spanner on the pulley retaining bolt to turn the crankshaft.

LO

a

a

ae

a

11 Camshaft and tappets - removal ae ee ee ee 1

Undo

and remove

8

eee

Se

the two bolts and spring washers securing

the timing cover to the flywheel housing.

2

Undo and remove

the six shaped bolts which hold the cam-

shaft cover

to the top of the cylinder head in a diagonal and progressive manner. Lift away the cover and the gasket.

Lift away the two halves of the clamp (photo).

3

11 Refer to Chapter 2 and drain the cooling system. 12 Slacken the clips securing the radiator, water pump

marks 1/4 tdc on the flywheel are in alignment with the pointer, and number 1 cylinder on commencement of the firing stroke.

and

The

crankshaft

should

now

be

turned

until

the

timing

Fig. 1.3. Cylinder head removal (Sec. 9) 1 2 3

Air cleaner Fuel, heater and distributor vacuum pipe

10 Front lifting bracket 711 Cylinder head cover

12 Flywheel and camshaft

Throttle and choke cables

alignment marks:

4

Brake servo unit pipe

5 6

Exhaust down pipe Exhaust down pipe to manifold clip

A—manual, B—automatic 13 Chain tensioner adaptor 14 1/8 inch Allen key

7

Thermal transmitter

15 Camshaft sprocket

8 9

Spark plug leads Rear lifting bracket

16 Cylinder head bolts 17 Cylinder head and gasket

—

2 Gi. 9.1 Air cleaner removal

9.10 Exhaust manifold clamp removal

HI36?E,

21 —(‘(C‘(‘(‘(‘(‘(‘(‘(‘(‘(‘(‘(‘ ST

Chapter 1/Engine eee The marks can be seen once the timing cover has been removed. If automatic transmission is fitted line up the zero mark on the connector with the pointer.

automatic transmission is fitted line up the zero mark on the connector with the pointer. 4 Carefully check that the camshaft sprocket and adjoining bearing boss marks align correctly and if necessary turn the crankshaft in the normal direction of rotation until the marks do align correctly. 5 Remove the positive and then negative terminals from the battery. 6 Undo and remove the nuts and plain washers holding the battery clamp bar to the support rods and lift away the clamp bar and two rods. 7 Lift away the battery from its tray. The tray may be lifted out next.

8 Undo and remove the bolts and spring washers securing the radiator stay and left-hand lifting bracket to the end of the cylinder head. 9 Undo and remove the bolts and spring washers securing the

engine steady and right-hand

lifting bracket

to the end of the

cylinder head.

10 Undo and remove the chain tensioner adaptor bolt and then, using a 1/8 inch Allen key placed through the bolt adaptor, turn the

tensioner

plunger

in a clockwise

direction

to

retract

the

tensioner slipper from the chain. 11 Undo and remove the bolt and spring washer securing the camshaft sprocket to the camshaft and detach the sprocket from the camshaft. 12 Slacken the camshaft housing bolts in a diagonal and progressive manner until the valve spring pressure is released. 13 Lift up the camshaft housing by a sufficient amount for the tappets to fall clear of the camshaft. Give the housing a little shake if necessary. 14 Recover the tappets and place in order so that they can be refitted in their original positions. 15 The camshaft can be removed from the housing by with-

12 Valve - removal be removed from the cylinder head by the Compress each spring in turn with a valve until the two halves of the collets can be

Release the compressor and remove

the valve spring cup and

spring (photo). 3 Lift away the oil seal fitted to inlet valves only

(photo).

4 \f, when the valve spring compressor is screwed down, the valve spring cup refuses to free and expose the split collet, do not

continue to screw it down as there isa

likelihood of damaging it.

5 Gently tap the top of the tool directly over the cup with a hammer. This will free the cup. To avoid the compressor jumping off the valve retaining cup when it is tapped, hold the compressor firmly in position with one hand. 6 It is essential that the valves are kept in their correct sequence unless they are so badly worn that they are to be renewed. If they are going to be used again, place them ina sheet of card having eight numbered holes corresponding with the

relative positions of the valves when fitted. Also keep the valve springs, cups etc., in the correct order.

7

6

Turn

the crankshaft

flywheel

are

in

cylinder

on

the

until the timing marks

alignment

with

the

commencement

of

automatic transmission is fitted converter with the pointer.

pointer,

the

line up

1/4 tdcon and

firing the

zero

the

number

stroke. mark

1

When on

the

7 Carefully check that the camshaft sprocket and adjoining bearings boss marks align correctly and, if necessary, turn the crankshaft in the normal direction of rotation until the marks do align correctly. 8 Undo and remove the chain tensioner adaptor bolt and then,

using a 1/8 inch Allen key placed through the bolt adaptor, turn the tensioner plunger in a clockwise direction to retract the tensioner slipper from the chain. 9 Undo and remove the bolt and spring washer securing the camshaft sprocket to the camshaft and detach the sprocket from the camshaft. 10 Using a screwdriver, carefully ease the front oil seal from its location in the cylinder block. 11 Lift out the oil thrower and ease the crankshaft sprocket off the end of the crankshaft. 12 To remove the chain it is now necessary to use the special tool as mentioned in paragraph 1. 13 Locate the bright link of the chain. 14 Fit the pointed extractor adaptor into the head of the tool sliding press. 15 Fit the bridge piece of the too! into the bright link.

plate.

18 Retract the press and remove the chain. 14 Chain tensioner - removal

removed (photo). 2

screwdriver inserted throught the timing cover, undo and remove the crankshaft pulley securing bolt and lockwasher. 5 With either a universal puller or tyre levers draw the crankshaft pulley from the end of the crankshaft.

16 Position the bright link in the front of the tool anvil with the riveted side of the link (link pin heads with horizontal depression) towards the sliding press of the tool. 17 Tighten the press until the link pins shear through the link

drawing the end opposite to the sprocket.

1 The valves can following method. spring compressor

number ‘18G1151"', cannot be borrowed the job should be left to the local BLMC garage. 2 For this work to be carried out the power unit must first be removed from the car. 3 Refer to Section 13 paragraphs 4 to 11 inclusive and remove the camshaft and crankshaft sprocket. 4 Using a suitably sized socket and, to lock the flywheel, a

Should a case of noisy valve gear be under investigation on

early engines up to engine number /‘°14H/283EH/13472” the cause could be due to the valve stem either scuffing or picking up in the guide. If this is evident new valves must be fitted. On engines produced after this number, the finish of the guides and method of assembly into the cylinder head were changed to eliminate this problem.

13 Timing chain and sprockets - removal 1 Before commencing work it should be noted that a special tool is required to split the chain. If this tool, having a part

1 Refer to Chapter 2 and remove the water pump. 2 The six shaped bolts which hold the camshaft cover to the top of the cylinder head should now be unscrewed in a progressive and diagonal manner. Lift away the cover and gasket. 3 Using a suitably sized socket, and to lock the flywheel a

screwdriver inserted through the timing cover, undo and remove the crankshaft pulley securing bolt and lockwasher. 4 With either a universal puller or tyre levers, draw the crankshaft pulley from the end of the crankshaft. 5

Refer

to

Section

13 and follow the sequence

described

in

paragraphs 6 to 9 inclusive. 6 Release the locknut and turn the chain guide adjuster anticlockwise to the back of the cam. 7 Slacken the bolt securing the left-hand tie-rod assembly to the body bracket. 8 Undo and remove

the two bolts and remove the left-hand tie-rod and bracket assembly from the cylinder head.

9 Undo away the 10 Undo 11 Undo the fixed 12 Undo

and remove the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt. Lift camshaft sprocket. and remove the alternator adjustment link pivot. and remove the dowel bolt locating the lower end of guide. Note this bolt has a sealing washer. and remove the two bolts securing the engine front

cover. Lift away the front cover. 13 The chain tensioner adaptor may now be unscrewed. 14 The tensioner may now be lifted through the front cover

aperture.

22

HIDKB4

Fig. 1.4. Camshaft and tappets removal (Sec. 11) 7 2

Camshaft sprocket Camshaft housing bolts

3

Camshaft housing

4

Camshaft

ba

pi ae

12.1 Valve collet

Tappet Tappet adjustment shim

Fig. 1.5. Inlet and exhaust

valve assemblies (Sec. 12) A

as 4

5 6

Valve spring cups Valve springs

Collets Oil seal (inlet valve only) Inlet valve DARWHs Exhaust valve B

Standard oil seal (one ring) Cc

Oversize oil seal (two rings)

12.2 Lifting away valve spring cap and spring

12.3 Removal of inlet valve oil seal

Chapter 1/Engine

23

ees 15 Timing chain guides - removal 1

Refer to Chapter 2 and remove the water pump

2

Using

a suitably

sized

socket,

and

to

belt.

lock the flywheel

a

screwdriver inserted through the timing cover, undo and remove the crankshaft pulley securing the bolt and the lock washer. 3 Using either a universal puller or tyre levers, draw the crankshaft pulley from the end of the crankshaft.

4

Turn

the crankshaft

flywheel

are

in

cylinder

on

the

until the timing

alignment

with

the

commencement

marks

pointer,

of the

1/4 tde on the and

firing

number

stroke.

1

When

automatic transmission is fitted line up the zero line on the converter with the pointer. 5 Remove the timing chain tensioner adaptor screw and insert 1/8 in Allen

key

into the screw

aperture

and turn

it in a clock

wise direction 90° so as to retract the tensioner. 6 Slacken the locknut and turn the chain guide adjuster to the back of the cam. 7 Support the chain and camshaft sprocket using a piece of wire on the engine lifting bracket. 8 Unscrew and remove the camshaft sprocket securing bolt and lift away the sprocket. 9 Unscrew the alternator adjustment link pivot. 10 Unscrew the dowel bolt that locates the lower end of the fixed guide. Note that this dowel bolt has a sealing washer. 11 Undo and remove the two screws that secure the engine front cover. 12 Undo and remove the two screws that secure the chain guides to the cylinder block. Lift away the fixed guide. 13 Detach the lower end of the adjustable guide from the adjuster. Turn the adjuster anti-clockwise 90° and remove the guide.

16 Distributor and fuel pump driveshaft - removal

HI3486

Fig. 1.6. Timing chain renewal tool (Sec. 13) Timing chain Pointed extractor pins Loose bridge piece Side plate removal Service tool 18G 1157 QAwWNs

6

Side plate fitted to moving jaw Loose bridge piece reversed Moving jaw © ON Press tightened onto pins

1

For this operation

it is necessary

to remove

the power

unit

from the car. 2 Refer to Chapter 6 and separate the engine from the transmission unit. 3 Refer to Section 13/4 to 11 inclusive and remove the camshaft and camshaft sprocket. 4 Note the position of the distributor drive and the.slot at the

2 o'clock position with the large lobe uppermost (photo). 5 The distributor drive gear may now be withdrawn from the crankshaft. Note that the drive gear shaft will turn through approximately 90° as the gear is withdrawn. shaft and thrust washer.

Lift out the drive-

17 Pistons, connecting rods and big-end bearings - removal Unlike

the conventional

engine

it is not possible to remove

the pistons or connecting rods whilst the engine is still in the car as it is necessary first to remove the flywheel housing and primary drive gear cover and then separate the transmission unit

as described in Chapter 6. Then proceed as follows: 1 Undo the big-end nuts and place to one side in the order in which they were removed. 2 Remove the big-end caps, taking care to keep them in the right order and the correct way round. Also ensure that the shell 413820

Fig. 1.7. Crankshaft sprocket removal (Secs. 13 and 21) Oil seal Oil thrower Crankshaft sprocket Tapered face of sprocket RwON to face forwards i) Flywheel timing marks

bearings are kept with their correct connecting rods and caps unless they are to be renewed. Normally, the numbers 1 - 4 are stamped on adjacent sides of the big-end caps and connecting

rods to show which way round the cap fits. If no numbers or lines can be found, then with a scriber or file scratch mating marks across the joint from the rod to the cap. One line for connecting rod No. 1, two for connecting rod No, 2 and so on. This will ensure that there is no confusion later. It is most

important that the caps go back in the correct positions on the connecting rods from which they were removed.

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16.4 Correct pos ition of distributor drive

back the large nut until it is flush with the end of the main centre screw. Well lubricate the screw and large nut as they have to withstand high loading. Now push the centre screw in until the nut touches the thrust race. 3 Fit the adaptor number '18G1150C"onto the main centre screw with the piston ring cut away positioned uppermost. Then slide the parallel sleeve with the groove end first onto the centre screw. 4 Fit the piston with the ‘Front’ or ‘A’ mark towards the adaptor, on the centre screw. This is important because the gudgeon pin bore is offset and irreparable damage will result if fitted the wrong way round. Next fit the remover/replacer bush

on the centre screw with the flange end towards the gudgeon pin. 5 Screw the stop nut onto the main centre screw and adjust it until approximately 1/32 inch end play (‘A‘ in Fig. 1.12) exists, and lock the stop nut securely with the lock screws. Now check that the remover/replacer bush and parallel sleeve are positioned correctly in the bore on both sides on the piston. Also check that the curved face of the adaptor is clean and slide the piston onto the tool so it fits into the curved face of the adaptor with the piston rings over the cut away.

Fig. 1.9. Timing chain guides - removal (Sec. 15) 7 2 3

4

Guide retaining bolts LH guide RH guide Dowel bolt for LH guide

6

Screw the large nut up to the thrust race and, holding the

lock screw, turn the large nut with a ring spanner or long socket until the gudgeon pin is withdrawn from the piston.

3

If the big-end

caps are difficult

to remove,

they may

be

gently tapped with a soft faced hammer. 4 To remove the shell bearings, press the bearing opposite the groove in both the connecting rod and its caps, and the bearings

will slide out easily. 5 Withdraw the pistons

and connecting rods upwards and ensure they are kept in the correct order for replacement in the same bore.

19 Piston rings - removal 1

To remove

the piston rings, slide them carefully over the top

of the piston, taking care not to scratch the aluminium

never slide them off the bottom

18 Gudgeon pins - removal 1 A press fit gudgeon pin is used and a special BLMC tool No."18G1150” with adaptor ‘18G1150C"' is required to remove and replace it. The tool is shown in Fig. 1.12 and must be used in the manner described in the following paragraphs:

2

Securely hold the hexagonal body in a firm vice and screw

alloy;

of the piston skirt. It is very

easy to break the cast iron piston rings if they are pulled off roughly, so this operation should be done with extreme Care. It is helpful to make use of an old feeler gauge. 2 Lift one end of the piston ring to be removed out of its groove and insert under it the end of the feeler gauge. 3 Turn the feeler gauge slowly round the piston and, as the ring

comes out of its groove, apply slightly upward pressure so that it rests on the lanc above. It can then be eased off the piston with the feeler gauge stopping it from slipping into an empty groove if it is any but the top piston ring that is being removed.

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Chapter 1 Engine

27

20 Flywheel and flywheel housing - removal

Full details of this operation are given in Chapter 6.

21 Crankshaft and main bearing - removal With the engine removed from the car and separated from the transmission, remove the camshaft drive chain and sprocket. Also remove the crankshaft sprocket, flywheel and flywheel housing, big-end bearings and pistons. It will also be necessary to remove the distributor drive gear, the crankshaft primary gear and thrust washer.

Removal of the crankshaft can be attempted only with the engine on the bench or a clean floor. 1 Undo by one turn at a time the bolts which hold the five bearing caps. 2 Unscrew the bolts and remove them. Check that each bearing cap is marked as shown in Fig. 1.13. If no marks are evident

these should be made with a file or scriber. 3 Remove the main bearing caps and the bottom bearing

half of each

shell, taking care to keep the bearing shells in the right

caps. 4

When

bottom

removing

semi-circular

the

number

4 main

bearing

cap,

note

the

halves of the thrust washers, one half lying

on either side of the main bearing. Lay them with the number 4 main bearing along the correct side.

5

Slightly rotate the crankshaft to free the upper halves of the

bearing shells and thrust washers which placed over the correct bearing cap.

6

Remove

can

be extracted

and

the crankshaft by lifting it away from the crankcase.

22 Lubrication system - description

1 A forced feed system of lubrication is used so that oil circulates round the engine from the transmission unit below the cylinder block. The level of oil is indicated on the dipstick which is fitted to the front of the cylinder block. It is marked to indicate the maximum and minimum oil level (photo).

HIS4yU939

Fig. 1.11. Piston and connecting rod assembly (Sec. 17) Gudgeon pin Piston identification marks Piston rings Connecting rod and cap/bore RON

identification number

Big-end nut (early type) Big-end cap NQQ Piston

22.1 Dipstick marks

28

HId4¥IO

Fig. 1.13. Crankshaft and main bearing assemblies (Sec. 21)

1 2 3

Main bearing cap bolt Oil thrower Front oil seal

4 § 6

Crankshaft sprocket 7 Distributor drive gear Primary gear and thrust wash- 8 er

Main bearing cap and crankcase web mating marks Big end bearing caps

9 10 11

Main bearing cap Crankshaft Crankshaft thrust washers

Chapter 1 Engine

29

eM dene ee

2 The level of oil ideally should not be above or below the ‘MAX* mark. Oil is replenished via the filler cap on the top of

the camshaft cover. 3 The oil pump, located in the transmission unit, draws oil from the supply in the transmission casing and passes it to a full flow oil filter which is fitted with a renewable element. To

6 Thoroughly wash all components in petrol and wipe dry with a clean non-fluffy rag. Make sure that the mating faces of the filter head and transmission casing are really clean.

7

Fit the centre bolt to the filter bowl and slide on the spring,

steel

washer

and

new

rubber

washer

followed

by the pressure

the oil pressure, an oil pressure relief valve is located in

plate. (photo). 8 Secure the pressure plate in position with the circlip (photo).

the transmission unit under the filter head. 4 Oil passes from the filter to the main gallery, which runs the length of the cylinder block, and from there it is distributed by means of drillings to the various bearings. 5 Oil passes from the main gallery to the big-end and main crankshaft bearings. A small hole in each connecting rod lets a jet of oil lubricate the cylinder wall on each revolution.

9 Using a screwdriver, carefully ease a new sealing ring into the filter head by first fitting the ring into the groove at four equidistant points. Press it home a segment at a time (photo). 10 Do not insert the ring at just one point and work round the groove by pressing it home as, using this method, it is easy to stretch the ring and be left with a small loop of rubber which will not fit into the locating groove.

6

11 Insert a new oil filter element into the filter bow! (photo).

control

Oil

passes

up through

a drilling in the cylinder

head

to

lubricate the overhead camshaft and valve assemblies. From the top of the cylinder head, oil is able to pass back into the crankcase, via the camshaft drive chain chest, and from there into the transmission casing for recirculation.

12 If the filter head centre

seal is damaged or perished, ease out

the old and fit a new one (photo). 13 Fit the filter head over

filter

bowl

locates

the centre bolt, making sure that the

correctly

on

the rubber

sealing ring in the

filter head (photo). 14 Smear a little grease onto the transmission casing filter head 23 Oil filter - removal and replacement.

mating face and fit the new gasket noting that the oil filter face

1 The full-flow oil filter is located at the front of the transmission casing in the vicinity of the fuel pump. 2 It is removed by first unscrewing the centre bolt and withdrawing the complete filter assembly.

15 Refit the complete filter assembly and secure with the centre

is marked (photo).

3 Remove the filter head from the transmission casing. 4 Remove and discard the element and then remove the circlip. Withdraw the centre bolt and lift out the pressure plate, rubber

washer, steel washer and spring from the casing. 5 Remove the oil sealing ring from the filter head and the old gasket located between the filter head and transmission casing.

bolt (photo). Note: Some /ater models filters — see Chapter 13.

are

equipped

with

cartridge

type

24 Ventilation air filter - removal and replacement 1 To provide air for ventilating the engine, a filter is located on the flywheel! housing. 2 The filter element may be renewed by unscrewing the cover retaining screw and lifting off the cover and finally the filter

element (photo). 3

Throw away

the old element

the filter body. Refit plain washer.

the cover

and place a new element on to

and secure with the screw and

25 Oil pressure relief valve 1 The oil pressure relief valve is non-adjustable so, if its Operation is suspect, a new assembly must be obtained and fitted. It is located under the oil filter head. 2 Refer to Section 23 and remove the oil filter and head assembly.

3 Draw the oil transmission case.

pressure relief valve from its bore in the Note the location of the release hole which

must point downwards (photo). 4

There

is a line scribed on the face of the pressure relief valve

to act as a guide for refitting. This is shown in Fig. 1.15. 5 Refitting is the reverse procedure to removal. 26 Oil pump - removal and dismantling

unit

To gain access to the oil pump remove the complete power and then separate the transmission unit from the engine.

Full information

(ey

Fig. 1.14. Oil filter component parts (Sec. 23) Centre bolt Element Centre bolt circlip

Pressure plate, rubber and steel washers and spring Rubber washers and sealing ring

Gasket for filter head Centre bolt sealing ring Filter head ANAM AwWHx»

on this operation will be found in Chapter 6.

Then proceed as follows: 1 Bend back the tab washer locking the baffle plate securing bolt in the centre web of the transmission unit. Undo and remove the bolt, tab washer and baffle.

2 Unscrew the oil pump outlet connection which will be found under the oil filter head adjacent to the pressure relief valve. Although it with a large boss 3 Undo

a special too! is recommended it is possible to remove mole wrench provided it is clamped securely to the of the outlet connection. and remove the two bolts with spring and plain washers

that secure the oil pump to the side of the transmission unit.

4

5

The oil pump may now be lifted out of the transmission unit. Should it be necessary to remove the oil pump pick up, it is

necessary to remove the fifth speed gear.

es 23.7 Reassembly ot centre bolt to tilter

E2

23.8 Replacing circlip

bowl

23.11 Inserting new filter element

23.12 Fitting new seal

23.13 Fitting filter head

" Bs abs Nt 23.14 New gasket on filter head

23.15 Refitting filter bowl assembly

24.2 Ventilation air filter assembly

Grn

Fig. 1.15. Oil pressure

relief valve (Sec. 25)

25.3 Oil pressure relief valve removal

é

a HISu9e

71

Relief valve

2

Identification mark for position of release hole

Chapter 1 Engine

31

30 Crankshaft bearings

(main)

bearings

- examination

and

and

big-end

(connecting

rod)

renovation

1 With careful servicing and regular oil and filter changes, bearings will last for a very long time but they can still fail for unforeseen reasons. With big-end bearings, the indication of failure is a rhythmic loud knocking from the crankcase. The frequency depends on engine speed and is particularly

noticable

when

accompanied

noticeable

ere

the

by a

engine fall

in

is under oil

unless an accurate

pressure,

load.

This

symptom

although

oil pressure gauge

2

is

is not

is fitted. Main

bearing failure is usually indicated by serious particularly at higher engine revolutions, accompanied significant drop in oil pressure and a ‘rumbling’ noise.

ee

this

vibration, by a more

Bearing shells in good condition have bearing surfaces with a

smooth,

even

matt

silver/grey

colour

all over.

Heavily

worn

bearings will show patches of a different colour when the bearing Fig. 1.16. Piston ring wear measurement 71

Ring gap measurement

2

(Sec. 32)

metal has worn and exposed the underlay. Damaged bearings will

Ring groove measurement

6 To dismantle the oil pump, first undo and remove the three bolts and spring washers which secure the suction filter housing to the body.

7

Lift away the intake filter assembly.

8 The motor and shaft assembly and outer ring may now be withdrawn from the body. 9 Undo and remove the bolts and spring washers holding the two parts of the intake filter assembly together. Separate the two parts and lift away the strainer and joint washer.

31 Cylinder bores - examination and renovation 1

A new cylinder bore is perfectly round and the walls parallel

throughout its length. The action of the piston tends to wear the walls at right angles to the gudgeon pin due to side thrust. This wear takes place principally on that section of the cylinder swept by the piston rings. 2 It is possible to get an indication of bore wear by removing

the cylinder head with the engine still in the car. With the piston

27 Chain tensioner - dismantling With

be pitted or scored. Always fit new shells. Their cost is relatively low. If the crankshaft is in good condition it is merely a question of obtaining another set of standard size shells. A reground crankshaft will need new bearing shells as a matter of course.

the tensioner removed from the engine as described in

Section 14 fit a 1/8 inch Allen key to its socket in the cylinder and, holding the slipper and plunger firmly, turn the key clockwise to free the cylinder and spring from the plunger.

28 Engine - examination and renovation - general

down in the bore, first signs of wear can be seen and felt just below the top of the bore where the top piston ring reaches, and there will be a noticeable lip. If there is no lip evident, it is reasonable to expect that bore wear is not severe and any lack of compression or excessive oil consumption is due to either worn or broken piston rings, pistons, valves or guides. 3. If it is possible to obtain an internal micrometer, measure the bore in the thrust plane below the lip and again at the bottom of the cylinder bore in the same plane. If the difference is more

1 With the engine stripped down and all parts thoroughly clean it is time to examine everything for wear or damage. The items

than 0.003 inch (0.076mm) then a rebore is necessary. Similarly a difference of 0.003 inch (0.076mm) or more across the bore

in Sections

diameter is a sign of ovality calling for a rebore. 4 Any bore which is significantly scratched or scored will need reboring. This symptom usually indicates that the piston or rings are also damaged in that cylinder. In the event of any one cylinder being in need of reboring, it will still be necessary for all four to be bored and fitted with new oversize pistons and rings. Your BLMC garage or local motor engineering specialist will be able to rebore and obtain the necessary matched pistons. If the crankshaft is undergoing regrinding, it is a good idea to let the same firm renovate and reassemble the crankshaft and pistons to the cylinder block. A reputable firm normally gives a guarantee

29 to 39 following should

be checked

and where

necessary renewed or renovated. 2 In any border line case it is alweys best to decide in favour of a new part. Even if a part may still be serviceable its life will have

been

reduced

by wear

and

the

degree

of trouble

needed

to

replace it in the future must be taken into consideration. 3 This is a relative situation; it depends on whether a quick ‘survival’ job is being done or the car as a whole is being regarded

as having many

thousands of miles of useful and economical life

remaining.

for such work. In cases where engines have been rebored already to their maximum, new cylinder liners are available which may

29 Crankshaft - examination and renovation Look at the main bearing journals and the crankpins. If there are any scratches or score marks then the crankshaft will need regrinding. Such conditions will nearly always be accompanied by similar deterioration on the matching bearing shells. =

2

Each

bearing

journal

should

also

be round

and

can

be

checked with a micrometer or caliper gauge around the periphery at several points.If there is more than 0.001 inch of ovality regrinding is necessary.

3

A BLMC garage or motor engineering specialist will be able to

decide to what extent regrinding is necessary special undersize bearings to match.

4

Before

taking

the

crankshaft

for

and

regrinding,

supply the

check

the

cylinder bores and pistons, as it may be advantageous to have the whole unit done together.

be fitted. In such followed and the

cases the same reboring processes have to be services of a specialist engineering firm are

required. [ones pieaeeeacetiaasisniseanSeacmecasinpatneiesienaenig tied SS

32 Pistons and piston rings - examination and renovation NRE a a = a Fase 1

SE

Worn

pistons and rings can usually be diagnosed when the n symptoms of excessive oi! consumption and low compressio occur and are sometimes, though not always, associated with worn cylinder bores. Compression testers that fit into the spark plug holes are available and these can indicate where low compression is occuring. Wear usually accelerates the more it is

left, so when the symptoms occur early action can possibly save

the expense of a rebore.

32

Chapter 1 Engine

2 Another symptom of piston wear is piston slap - a knocking noise from the crankcase not to be confused with big-end bearing failure. It can be heard clearly at low engine speed when there is no load (idling for example) and is much less audible when the engine speed increases. Piston wear usually occurs in the skirt or lower end of the piston and is indicated by vertical streaks in the worn area which is always on the thrust side. It can be seen where the skirt thickness is different. 3 Piston ring wear can be checked by first removing the rings from the pistons as described in Section 19. Then place the rings in the cylinder bores from the top, pushing them down about 1% inches (40mm) with the head of a piston (from which the rings have been removed) so that they rest squarely in the cylinder bore. Then measure the gap at the ends of the ring with a feeler gauge. If it exceeds 0.022 inch (0.558mm) for the compression

rings or 0.045 inch (1.143mm) for the lower oil control ring then they need renewal. 4 The grooves in which the rings locate in the piston can also become enlarged in use. The clearance between ring and piston,

in the groove,

should

not exceed

0.035

inch

(0.889mm)

for

each ring. 5 However, it is rare that a piston is only worn in the ring grooves, and the need to replace them for this fault alone js hardly ever encountered. When ever pistons are renewed, the weight of the four piston/connecting rod assemblies should be

kept within the limit variation engine balance.

33 Connecting vation

rods and

gudgeon

of 8 gms. to maintain

pins - examination

correct

and reno-

1 Gudgeon pins are a tight fit in the little end of the connecting rods. Neither of these would normally need replacement unless the pistons are being changed, in which case the new pistons would automatically be supplied with new gudgeon pins. 2 Connecting rods are not subject to wear but, in extreme circumstances such as engine seizure, they could be distorted. Such conditions may be visually apparent, but where doubt exists they should be changed. The bearing caps should also be examined for indications of filing down which may have been

attempted in the mistaken idea that bearing slackness could be remedied in this way. If there are such signs then the connecting rods should be replaced.

34 Camshaft and camshaft bearings - examination and renovation 1

The camshaft

itself should show

no signs of wear, but if very

slight score marks on the cams are noticed, they can be removed by very gentle rubbing down with very fine emery cloth or an oil stone. The greatest care should be taken to keep the cam profiles smooth. 2 Carefully examine the camshaft bearing surfaces for wear and, if evident, the camshaft must be renewed. 3 Check the camshaft fit in the cast aluminium housing and, if side movement is evident, a new housing must be obtained. The camshaft runs directly in the aluminium housing and does not have white metal bushes.

36 Valves and valve seats - examination and renovation

1 With the valves removed from the cylinder head, examine the heads for signs of cracking, burning away and pitting of the edges where they seat in the ports. The seats of the valves in the cylinder head should also be examined for the same signs. Usually it is the valve that deteriorates first, but if a bad valve is not rectified the seat will suffer and this is more difficult to repair.

2 Provided there are no obvious signs of serious pitting, the valve should be ground into its seat. This may be done by placing a smear of carborundum paste on the edge of the valve and using a suction type valve holder, grinding the valve in-situ. Use a semi rotary action, rotating the handle of the valve holder between the hands and lifting it occasionally to redistribute the traces of

paste. Start with a coarse paste (photo). 3 As soon as a matt grey unbroken line appears on both the valve and seat, the valve is ‘ground-in’. All traces of carbon should also be cleaned from the head and neck of the valve stem. A wire brush mounted in a power drill is a quick and effective way of doing this. 4 \f the valve requires renewal, it should] be ground into the seat in the same way as the old valve. 5 Another form of valve wear can occur on the stem where it runs in the guide in the cylinder head. This can be detected by trying to rock the valve from side to side. If there is any movement at all, it is an indication that the valve stem or guide is worn. Check the stem first with a micrometer at points along and around its length, and if they are not within the specified size new valves will probably solve the problem. If the guides are worn however, they will need reboring for oversize valves or for fitting guide :nserts. The valve seats will also need recutting to ensure they are concentric with the stems. This work should be given to your local BLMC garage or engineering works. 6 When valve seats are badly burnt or pitted, requiring replacement, inserts may be fitted - or replaced if previously fitted - and once again this is a specialist task to be carried out by a suitable engineering firm. 7 When all valve grinding is completed, it is essential that every trace of grinding paste is removed from the valves and ports in the cylinder head. This should be done by thorough washing in petrol or paraffin and blowing out with a jet of air. If particles of carborundum paste should work their way into the engine this would cause havoc with bearings or cylinder walls.

37 Crankshaft and renovation

and

camshaft

sprockets

and

chain-examination

1 Carefully examine the teeth on both the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets for wear. Each tooth forms an inverted ‘V’ with the gear wheel periphery and if worn, the side of each tooth under tension will be slightly concave in shape when compared with the other side of the tooth. If any sign of wear is present, the sprockets must be renewed. 2 Examine the links of the chain for side slackness and renew

the chain if any slackness is noticeable when compared with a nev. chain. It isa sensible precaution to renew the chain at about 30,000 miles and at a lesser mileage if the engine is stripped down for major overhaul. The actual rollers on a very badly worn chain may be slightly grooved.

35 Tappets - examination and renovation 1. The little shims found inside the tappet bucket must be kept with the relative tappet and not interchanged. 2 The faces of the tappets which bear on the camshaft lobes should show no signs of pitting, scoring, fracturing or other forms of wear. They should not be a loose fit in the aluminium housing. Wear is normally encountered at very high mileages or in cases of neglected engine lubrication. Renew the tappets or housing as necessary.

38 Flywheel starter ring - examination and renovation

1 If the teeth on the flywheel starter ring gear are badly worn, or if some are missing, then it will be necessary to remove the ring. This is achieved by splitting the old ring with a cold chisel. The greatest care must be taken not to damage the flywheel during this process.

in

€-3

:

36.2 Grindingin valve with hand tool

Fig. 1.18. Component parts of oi! pump (Sec. 39) Filter housing bolts Filter Gasket AWM Filter housing - upper and

lower halves 5 6

7

Oil pump body Outer ring Rotor and shaft assembly

HI3633

Fig. 1.17. Valve seat dimensions (Sec. 36) INLET

Maximum radius .010 2.175 in. (55.25 mm) Included angle 50° 450 7.395 in. (35.44 mm) 1.498 in. (38.05 mm) Blend insert to throat SroOnNMNoo

(A)

in. (.25 mm) to 2.174 in. (55.23 mm) to 1.405 in. (35.69 mm) to 1.5017 in. (38.13 mm)

EXHAUST

(B)

Maximum radius .010 in. (.25 mm) 2.175 in. (55.25 mm) to 2.174 in. (55.23 mm)

450

Blend insert to throat diameter

1.11 in. (28.19 mm) to 1.13 in. (28.7 mm) 1.215 in. (30.86 mm) to 1.218 in. (30.94 mm) 1.3456 in. (33.20 mm) to 1.3475 in. (34.23 mm) Srasnyy

H.10179

Fig. 1.19. Checking oil pump for wear (Sec. 39)

34

Chapter 1 Engine

2 To fit a new ring gear, heat it gently and evenly with an oxy-acetylene flame until a temperature of approximately 350°C

(662°F)

is reached.

This is indicated

by a light metallic

surface colour. With the ring gear at this temperature,

flywheel

blue

fit it to the

with the front of the teeth furthermost from the clutch

mounting

face,

The ring gear should

be either pressed or lightly

tapped onto its register and left to cool naturally when the contraction of the metal on cooling will ensure that it is a secure and permanent fit. Great care must be taken not to overheat the ring gear as if this happens the temper of the ring will be lost. 3 Alternatively, the local BLMC garage or engineering works may have a suitable oven in which the ring gear can be heated. The normal domestic oven will usually only give a maximum temperature

cleaning

former

of about

type

it may

which

250° C, (482°F), except

will

give

a

higher

for the latest self

temperature.

With

the

just be possible to fit the ring gear with it at this

temperature, but it is unlikely. No great force should have to be used. An alternative method of heating is to use an oil bath.

1 Thoroughly clean all the component parts in petrol and then check the rotor endfloat and lobe clearance in the following manner: 2 Position the rotor and outer ring in the pump body and place the straight edge of a steel rule across the joint face of the pump. Measure the gap between the bottom of the straight edge and top of the rotor and outer ring as shown in Fig. 1.19. If the measurement exceeds 0.005 inch (U0.127mm) (outer ring) and

inch

(1.3970mm)

(inner

rotor)

a new

pump

must

be

obtained as no individual parts are obtainable. 3 Measure the gaps between the peaks of the lobes and peaks of

the outer ring with feeler gauges. If the measurement exceeds 0.0035 inch (0.8890mm) a new pump must be obtained,

(Fig. 1.19). 4

Measure

the clearance

between

into the bores. To assist prevention of carbon build up, the piston crown can be polished with a metal polish, Remove the rags or masking tape from the other two cylinders and turn the

crankshaft so that the two pistons which were at the bottom are now at the top. Place non-fluffy rag into the other two bores, or seal them with paper and masking tape. Do not forget the waterways and oilways as well. Proceed as previously described. 5 If a ring of carbon is going to be left round the piston, this can be helped by inserting an old piston ring into the top of the bore to rest on the piston and ensure that carbon is not

accidently removed. Check that there are no particles of carbon in the cylinder bores. Decarbonisation is now complete.

39 Oil pump - examination and renovation

0.0055

4 \f all traces of carbon are to be removed, press a little grease into the gap between the cylinder walls and the two pistons which are to be worked on. With a blunt scraper carefully scrape away the carbon from the piston crown, taking care not to scratch the aluminium. Also scrape away the carbon from the surrounding lip of the cylinder wall. When all carbon has been removed, scrape away the grease which will now be contaminated with carbon particles, taking care not to press any

the outer

ring and the pump

body and if it exceeds 0.011 inch (0.2794mm) a new pump must be obtained (Fig. 1.19). 5 If all parts are satisfactory, assembly is the reverse sequence to dismantling as described in Section 26. Always make sure the strainer is clean and use a new joint washer between the two halves of the strainer body,

40 Cylinder head - decarbonisation 1 This operation can be carried out with the engine either in or out of the car. With the cylinder head off, carefully remove, with a wire brush and blunt scraper, all traces of carbon deposits from the combustion spaces and the ports. The valve stems and valve guides should also be free from any carbon deposits. Wash the combustion spaces and ports down with petrol and scrape the cylinder head surface free of any foreign matter with the side of

a steel rule or a similar article. Take care not to scratch the surfaces, 2 Clean the pistons and top of the cylinder bores. If the pistons are still in the cylinder bores, it is essential that great care is taken to ensure that no carbon gets into the bores as this could scratch the cylinder walls or cause damage to the piston rings. To ensure that this does not happen first turn the crankshaft so that two of the pistons are at the top of the bores. Place clean nonfluffy rag into the two bores, or seal them off with paper and masking tape. The water and oil ways should also be covered with a small piece of masking tape to prevent particles of carbon entering the cooling system and damaging the water pump, or entering the lubrication system and causing damage to a bearing surface, 3. There are two schools of thought as to how much carbon Ought to be removed from the piston crown, One is that a ring of

41

Engine - reassembly - general

1 To ensure maximum life with minimum trouble rebuilt engine, not only must every part be correctly assembled, but everything must be spotlessly clean. All the oilways must be clear, locking washers and spring washers must always be fitted where indicated, and all bearings and other working surfaces must be thoroughly lubricated during assembly. Before assembly begins, renew any bolts or studs the threads of which are in any way damaged, and whenever possible use new spring washers. 2 Apart from your normal tools, a supply of non-fluffy rag, an oil can filled with engine oil (an empty washing up fluid

bottle thoroughly cleaned and washed out will do just as well), a supply of new spring washers, a set of new gaskets and a torque wrench should be collected together.

42 Crankshaft - replacement Ensure that the crankcase is thoroughly clean and that all the oilways are clear. A thin drill is useful for clearing them out. If possible, blow them out with compressed air. Treat the crankshaft in the same fashion and then inject engine oil into the crankshaft oilways. Commence work on rebuilding the engine by replacing the crankshaft and main bearings. 1 Replace the main bearing shells by fitting the five upper halves of the main bearing shells to their location in the crankcase, after wiping the location clean (photo). 2 Note that on the back of each bearing is a tab which engages in locating

grooves

in either the crankcase or the main bearing

cap housings (photo). 3 New bearings are coated with protective grease; carefully clean away all traces of this with paraffin. 4 With the five upper bearing shells securely in place, wipe the lower bearing cap housings and fit the five lower shell bearings to their caps ensuring that the right shell goes into the right cap, if

the old bearings are being refitted (photo). 5 Wipe the recesses either side of the number 4 main bearing which locate the upper halves of the thrust washers. 6 Smear a little grease onto the recesses for the upper thrust washers within the crankcase. Fit the thrust washers with their

grooves facing outwards (photo). 7

Fit the innermost Woodruff

key to the nose of the crankshaft

(photo).

carbon should be left around the edge of the piston and on the cylinder bore wall as an aid to keeping oil consumption low. The other is to remove all traces of carbon during decarbonisation,

8 Generously lubricate the crankshaft journals and the upper and lower main bearing shells and carefully lower the crankshaft into position. Make sure that it is the right way round. (photo). 9 Fit the main bearing caps into position ensuring that they locate properly on the dowels and that the mating numbers

and leave everything clean.

correspond (photo).

Chapter 1 Engine 10 Apply a little grease to the location for the thrust washers on number 4 main bearing cap. Fit the thrust washers with the grooves facing outwards. Refit the cap to the main bearing web

(photo). 11 Replace the long bolts that secure the main bearing caps and screw them up finger tight. 12 Test the crankshaft for freedom of rotation. Should it be very stiff to turn, or possess high spots, a most careful inspection

35

1 Unscrew the large nut and withdraw the centre screw from the body a few inches. Well lubricate the screw thread and correctly locate the piston support adaptor. 2 Carefully slide the parallel sleeve with the groove end last onto the centre screw, up as far as the shoulder. Lubricate the

gudgeon pin and its bores in the connecting rod and piston with

micrometer to trace the cause of the trouble. It is very seldom that any trouble of this nature will be experienced when fitting

graphite oil. 3. Fit the connecting rod and piston, side marked ‘front’ or XV to the tool, with the connecting rod entered on the sleeve up to the groove. Next fit the remover/replacer bush flange end towards the gudgeon pin.

the crankshaft.

4

13 Tighten the main bearing bolts, using a torque wrench setting of 70 lb f ft (9.7 kg fm) and recheck the crankshaft for freedom of rotation (photo)

to give a 1/32 inch end play ‘A’ as shown in Fig. 1.12. Lock the

must

be

made,

preferably

by

a

skilled

mechanic

with

a

14 The endfloat of the crankshaft may next be checked. Using a screwdriver as a fever at one of the crankshaft webs and main

bearing caps, move the crankshaft longitudinally as far as possible in one direction. Measure the gap between the side of number 4 journal and the thrust washer. Maximum endfloat should be between 0.002 and O. 003 inch and is adjustable by means of selective thrust washers (photo).

Screw

the stop nut onto

nut securely

the centre

with the lock screw.

screw and adjust the nut

Ensure that the curved

face of

the adaptor is clean, and slide the piston on the tool so that it fits into the curved face of the adaptor with the piston rings over the adaptor cut-away. 5 Screw the large nut up to the thrust

wrench

race.

Adjust

the torque

to a setting of 12 Ib f ft. (1.66 kg fm) which

flange of the remover/replacer bush is 0.016 in (0.3810mm_

1500 engines) 43 Distributor and fuel pump driveshaft - refitting

1 Fit the thrust washer to the driveshaft (photo). 2 Turn the crankshaft until the big-end journals are parallel with the cylinder bores. This would be an equivalent tdc position for two of the four pistons.

3 Fit the driveshaft with the drive slot at the 10 o'clock Position with the large lobe uppermost (photos). 4 Fit the distributor drive gear. It will be noticed that as the teeth mesh, the shaft will turn anti-clockwise through approximately 90° to bring the drive slot to the 2 o'clock Position with the large lobe uppermost. (photos). 5 Refer to photo 16:4 which shows the correct position of the drive slot. 6 Insert the oil pump driveshaft into the distributor and fuel

pump driveshaft (photo). 7 As a further check, temporarily refit the distributor and make sure that the rotor arm is set to fire number 1 cylinder.

44 Piston and connecting rod-reassembly If the same

pistons are being used, then they must be mated

to the same connecting rod with the same gudgeon pin. If new pistons are being fitted it does not matter with which connecting rod they are used, but the gudgeon pin must be kept matched to its piston.

Upon reference to Section 18 it will be seen that a special tool was required to remove the gudgeon pin from the piston and connecting rod assembly. This too! is now required to refit the gudgeon pin.

or 0.005

inch (0.1270mm)

)(for

(for 1750 engines)

from the piston skirt. It is critically important that the flange is not allowed to contact the piston. Finally withdraw the BLMC service tool. 6 Should the torque wrench not ‘break’ throughout the pull, the fit of the gudgeon

pin in the connecting

rod is not within

limits and the parts must be renewed. 7 Ensure that the piston pivots freely on the gudgeon pin and it is free to slide sideways. Should stiffness exist, wash the assembly in paraffin, lubricate the gudgeon pin with graphite oil and recheck. Again if stiffness exists, dismantle the assembly and recheck for signs of ingrained dirt and positive damage.

45 Piston rings - replacement 1 Check that the piston ring grooves and oilways are thoroughly clean and unblocked. Piston rings must always be fitted over the head of the piston and never from the bottom. 2 The easiest method to use when fitting rings is to wrap a long feeler gauge round the top of the piston and place the rings one at a time, starting from the bottom oil control ring. 3 Fit the bottom rail of the oil position it below the bottom expander into the bottom groove trol ring rail up into the bottom rail into the bottom groove. 4

Ensure

that

control ring to the piston and groove. Refit the oil control and move the bottom oil congroove. Fit the top oil control

the ends of the expander

are butting,

but

not

overlapping. Set the gaps of the rails and the expander at 90°to each other.

i 42.1 Fitting new main bearing shell half

will

represent the minimum load for an acceptable fit. Use the torque wrench previously set on the large nut, and a ring spanner on the lock screw. Pull the gudgeon pin into the piston until the

42.2 All shell halves in position

=

aa

°

42.4 Fitting new shell bearing half into

cap

j

42.9 Dowels to be correctly located

‘é a

:

% eo

o

¢ Wasi

s

42.7 Replacement ot Woodruff key

42.8 Lowering the crankshaft into position

42.10 Hold the thrust washers in position

42.13 Tightening main bearing bolts

with grease

f

43.3b Fitting driveshaft

43.4a Replacing distributor drive gear

F

43.4b Drive gear being meshed

Chapter 1 Engine

47

37

Connecting rods to crankshaft - refitting

1 Wipe clean the connecting rod half of the big-end bearing cap and the underside of the shell bearing, and fit the shell bearing in position with its locating tongue engaged with the corresponding groove in the connecting rod. 2 If the old bearings are nearly new and are being refitted then ensure they are replaced in their correct locations in the correct rods. 3 Generously lubricate the crankpin journals with engine oil and turn the crankshaft so that the crankpin is in the most advantageous

position

for the connecting

rod to be drawn onto

It.

4 Wipe clean the connecting rod bearing cap and back of the shell bearing and fit the shell bearing in position ensuring that the locating tongue at the back of the bearing engages with the locating groove in the connecting rod cap.

5

Hi3634

Fig. 1.20. Piston rings (Sec. 45) 7

Bottom rail of oil control ring

Expander of oil control ring Top rail of oil control

ring 4

Expander ends correctly

5

butted together Second and third taper rings

Generously

lubricate the shell bearing and offer up the con-

necting rod cap to the connecting rod (photo). 6 Fit new multi-sided nuts to the connecting rod bolts and tighten to atorque wrench setting of 30 Ib f ft (4.1 kg fm) (photo) 7 and 8 ing

This photograph shows the big-end cap and nuts in position the connecting rod and big-end cap identification marks. Repeat the above described procedures for the three remainpiston/connecting rod assemblies.

Top chromium plated ring

5 Refit the third and second tapered compression rings with the side marked ‘‘TOP’’ uppermost. Note: On 1750 engines the

48 Timing chain, crankshaft sprocket and tensioner - refitting

tapered compression ring is fitted into the second groove only. 6 Fit the chromium plated compression ring to the top groove.

1 If the chain was removed for renewal, fit the new chain into the cylinder block. 2 Join the ends of the chain with a new link and position the

link in the anvil of BLMC 3

The pistons complete with connecting rods, can be fitted to the cylinder bores in the following sequence: 1 With a wad of clean non-fluffy rag wipe the cylinder bores clean.

2 The pistons, complete with connecting rods, are fitted to their bores from above. 3 Set the piston ring gaps so that the gaps are equidistant

around the circumference of the piston, (photo). 4 Well lubricate the top of the piston and fit a ring compressor. 5 As each piston is inserted into its bore ensure that it is the correct piston/connecting rod assembly for that particular bore;

that the connecting rod is the right way round; and that the front of the piston is towards the front of the bore ie, towards the chain chest of the engine. Lubricate the piston and bore well

with engine oil (photo). 6 The piston will slide into the bore only as far as the ring compressor. Gently tap the piston into the bore with a wooden or plastic hammer.

1) Baa

tool ‘’18G1151” with the head of the

pins towards the press (Fig. 1.6).

46 Pistons - replacement

Fit the locating bridge with its legs centralising the link in the

anvil. 4 Locate the plate of the link, chamfered side away from the chain on the bed of the press. 5 Press the plate fully onto the link pins, ensuring that the holes and pins are aligned.

6 Retract the press. Fit the rivet adaptor into the head of the press and tighten the press fully down onto the pins using hand pressure only on the press tommy bar. 7 Check that a slight side play exists on the link with no tight

spots. 8 Fit the second Woodruff key to the crankshaft nose and locate the crankshaft sprocket on the crankshaft with the tapered face outwards. tube.

Drift into its final position with a piece of

9 Engage the chain into mesh with the crankshaft sprocket. 10 Fit the adjustable guide into the chain chest making sure that the lower end engages shown in Fig. 1.8.

in the adjuster. The adjustable

Ge ‘|

43.6 Oil pump driveshaft replacement

46.3 Spacing piston ring gaps around circumference of piston

46.5 Inserting piston into bore

guide is

38

Chapter 1 Engine

11 Note: If the adjuster has been removed, check that it is correctly positioned so that the guide is not moved out of vertical alignment. 12 Fit the fixed guide and lightly tighten the two securing bolts,

1 Rest the cylinder on its side and insert each valve and valve spring in turn, wiping down and lubricating each valve stem as it is inserted into the same valve guide from which it was removed

spring and plain washers (photo).

14 Tighten the adjuster screw until the guide is positioned vertically in the chain chamber and secure in position with the

2 An oil seal is fitted between the cylinder head and valve spring on inlet valves only. 3 Fit the spring cups to the top of the valve springs and, with the base of the valve compressor on the valve head, compress the valve spring until the cotters can be slipped into place in the

locknut (photo).

cotter grooves (photo).

15 Fully tighten the two bolts securing the chain guides (photo).

4 Gently release the valve spring compressor. 5 Repeat this procedure until all eight valves and valve springs are fitted.

13 This

photo

shows

the

adjuster

screw

with

the

(photo).

locknut

removed.

16 Assemble the chain tensioner by inserting one end of the spring into the cylinder. 17 Compress the spring until the cylinder enters the plunger bore and ensure the peg in the plunger engages the helical slot. Insert and turn a 1/8 inch Allen key clockwise until the end of the cylinder is below the peg and the spring is held compressed (photo). 18 Insert the tensioner into the aperture at the front of the chain chamber and engage it into the adaptor. Screw in the

adaptor

50 Cylinder head - replacement After checking that both the cylinder block and cylinder head mating faces are perfectly clean, generously lubricate each cylinder with engine oil. 1 Always use a new cylinder head gasket as the old gasket will be compressed and not capable of giving a good seal. 2 Never smear grease on either side of the gasket for when the

(photo).

19 Clean the mating faces of the engine front cover and crankcase and fit a new gasket to the front cover. 20 Fit the cover in position and locate the long bolt shown in this photo so that it engages with the fixed chain guide.

21

Secure

alternator

the

front

adjustment

cover

with

link

pivot,

the both

combination using

spring

bolt

engine heats up, the grease will melt and may allow compression leaks to develop. 3 Carefully lower the new cylinder head gasket into position. It

and

washers

is not possible to fit it the wrong way round (photo).

(photo).

4

With the gasket in position carefully lower the cylinder head

onto the cylinder block (photo). 5 With the cylinder head in position fit the cylinder head bolts and tighten finger tight. 6 When all are in position tighten in a diagonal and progressive

49 Valves and valve springs - reassembly To refit the valves proceed as follows:

and

valve springs to the cylinder

if

48.12 Fixed guide replacement

manner to a final torque wrench setting of 60 Ib f ft. (8.29 kg fm). (photo).

head,

ys

saa

a

48.13 Adjuster screw w ith locknut removed

..

ee

a.

_

48.1 4 Resetting adjuster

fe

48.15

Chain guide bolt tightening

48.17 Assembling chain tensioner

ee

48.20 Replacement of te nsioner cover

48.21 Refitting alternator adjustment

i

Ble.

“Ce:

49. 1 Refitting valve and spring

link pivot

Be

49.3 Replacement of valve collets

50.3 Fitting new cylinder head gasket

50.6 Tightening cylinder head bolt

51.1 Fitting shim into tappet

50.4 Lowering cylinder head into posi- j

51.4 Lowering camshaft housing onto cylinder head

52.7 Checking clearance between cam lobe and tappet

fn: 4

ee

4

52.8 Holding camshaft

Le

Baba

52.11 Alignment of flywheel mark with

oe a

ui

a

52.16 Setting chain tensioner

pointer

52.21 Tappet shim identification

CF 52.30 Tightening camshaft sprocket securing bolt

Coa

3

54.1 Fitting Woodruff key to crankshaft

54.2 Replacing oil slinger

3

41

Chapter 1 Engine

8 The camshaft must only be turned in the normal direction of rotation. For this a mole wrench will make the job easier

(photo).

4

8

HI363S

Fig. 1.21. Cylinder head tightening sequence (Sec. 50)

Check Check Check Check Check Check Check Check Once

No. 1 tappet with No. 3 tappet with No. 5 tappet with No. 2 tappet with No. 8 tappet with No. 6 tappet with No. 4 tappet with No. 7 tappet with the readings have

No. No. No. No. No. No. No. No. been

8 valve fully open 6 valve fully open 4 valve fully open 7 valve fully open 1 valve fully open 3 valve fully open 5 valve fully open 2 valve fully open tabulated for all valves it should

9 be noted that, when new parts have been fitted or the valve seats reground adjustment of the valve tappet clearance is only necessary if the clearance of either inlet or exhaust is less than

0.012 in (0.30 mm). 51 Camshaft and tappets - refitting

Unless new parts have been fitted to the cylinder head, camshaft, or camshaft housing, the chances are that the valve clearances will not have to be reset as the original shims will be refitted to the tappet buckets which will also-be refitted in their Original positions. If new parts have been fitted, the camshaft and tappets must still be refitted and then the instructions followed as described in Section 52. 1 Smear the shims with petroleum jelly and then fit them into

the tappets (photo). 2 Lubricate the camshaft bearings and carefully slide the camshaft into the housing. 3 Invert the camshaft housing and place the tappets in their respective bores in the order in which they were removed. 4 Place the fingers over the tappets as shown in this photograph and carefully refit the housing, taking care to seat the tappets onto the valve stems. 5 Temporarily refit the camshaft sprocket to the camshaft, and turn the camshaft until the sprocket and housing marks align

(photo). 6

Fit the six housing securing bolts and tighten in a progressive

and diagonal manner to a final torque wrench setting of 20 Ib f ft

(2.8 kg fm) (photo). 7 Refer to Section 52 and check the tappet clearance. I adjust"ment is necessary, remove the camshaft housing and lift out the relevant tappets. Recover the shim inside the tappet and by calculation select the correct shim. Reassemble the tappet and camshaft housing again.

10 To adjust the clearance first undo and remove the two flywheel housing timing cover bolts and spring washers. Lift away the cover. 11 Turn the engine in the normal direction of rotation until the

1/4 tde flywheel mark, with No. 1 cylinder about to commence the firing stroke, is in alignment with the pointer (photo), On vehicles fitted with automatic transmission, align the zero mark on the torque converter with the pointer. 12 Check that the camshaft sprocket and the housing marks align correctly. 13 Undo and remove the positive and then the negative terminal from the battery. Unscrew the battery clamp bar securing nuts and lift away the clamp bar and battery. 14 Undo and remove the four bolts and spring washers securing the combined top radiator stay and front lifting bracket. Lift away the bracket. 15 Undo and remove the two bolts and spring washers securing the engine steady and lifting bracket from the flywheel end of the cylinder head. 16 Remove the chain tensioner adaptor screw. Insert a 1/8 inch Allen key into the screw adaptor and turn it in a clockwise direction so as to retract the tensioner slipper (photo). 17 Undo and remove the bolt and spring washer securing the camshaft sprocket to the camshaft and withdraw the sprocket. 18 Undo and remove the six bolts which secure the camshaft housing

to

21 Note

Obtain a O - 1 inch

(0-25mm)

micrometer or very accurate

vernier. 2 Open the bonnet and pull the breather hose from the cylinder head cover. 3 Pull the fuel feed pipe from the carburettor float chamber

union and draw it through the thermostat housing clip. 4

Plug the end

of the fuel pipe with a piece of tapered wood

. such as a pencil to stop fuel spurting out when the camshaft is rotated.

\

5 Pull off the ignition vacuum the carburettor body. 6

Undo and remove

head

lift the camshaft

in

a

diagonal

and

progressive

housing sufficiently to allow the

the maladjusted

tappet and recover the adjustment

shim from within the tappet.

It is not usual for the tappets to need re-adjustment throughout the life of the engine because of the lack of moving parts normally found with overhead valve installations. The reason for this is that the camshaft bears directly on the top of the tappet which in turn is in direct contact with the valve stem. Should new parts have been fitted then it will be necessary to check the clearances and adjust as necessary.

1

cylinder

tappets to fall clear of the camshaft housing and remain in position on the valve stems. Draw the camshaft out of the housing from the flywheel end.

20 Remove 52 Tappet adjustment

the

manner. 19 Carefully

pipe from the manifold side of

the six cylinder head cover securing bolts.

Lift away the cover and the gasket. 7 Using a feeler gauge, check the clearance between the cam lobe and the tappet of each valve in the order given below (photo). Make a note of the results obtained.

the thickness of the shim originally fitted (photo) and

by using the following

calculation determine

to give the correct

the new thickness

of shim

required

0.016to

0.018

clearance

of 0.020 to 0.022 inch (0.51 to 0.56 mm).

inch

(0.41

inlet valve clearance

to 0.46mm)

A

=

B

=

thickness of original shim

C

=

correct clearance

and

exhaust

of

valve

existing valve clearance

A + B — C=new shim thickness required

22 Shims are available in the following thicknesses:

0.097 0.099 0.101 0.103 0.105

inch inch inch inch inch

(2.47 (2.52 (2.56 (2.62 (2.67

mm) mm) mm) mm) mm)

0.107 inch (2.72 mm)

inch inch inch inch inch 0.123 inch

0.109 inch (2.77 mm)

0.125 inch (3.18 mm)

0.111 inch (2.83 mm)

0.113 0.115 0.117 0.119 0.121

(2.87 (2.93 (2.98 (3.03 (3.08 (3.13

mm) mm) mm) mm) mm) mm)

—_0.127 inch (3.23 mm)

23 Always check the shim thickness with a micrometer (photo). 24 \f a range of shims is not available and the clearance is less

than 0.012 inch (0.35 mm) it is possible to grind off a little metal from a shim using an oil stone, lubricated with paraffin,

*

54.5 Replacing crankshaft pulley

54.4 Front seal replacement

ay, oY sh

Be 54.6 Re placing crankshaft

z

pulley bolt

Xx

é

me.

;

54.7 Tightening crankshaft pulley bolt

and tab washer

-

55.1 Fitting new manifold gasket

55.2 Refitting carburettor and manifold assembly

55.3 Screwing in oil pressure switch

43

Chapter 1 Engine a and a piece of soft wood as shown in the photo. Keep a check on the thickness of metal being removed, using the micrometer. 25 Smear the shims in petroleum jelly (vaseline) and fit them into the tappets.

26 Refit the tappets into their respective guides and insert the camshaft into the camshaft housing from the flywheel end. 27 The sequence for reassembly is now the reverse sequence to removal. Further information may be found in Section 51. 28 The lifting bracket securing bolts and spring washers should be tightened to a torque wrench setting of 30 Ib f ft (4.1 kg fm). 29 The engine steady and flywheel end lifting bracket securing bolts and spring washers should be tightened to a torque wrench

11 Make sure the mating faces of thermostat housing are clean and fit a 12 Fit the three elbow securing bolts the fuel pipe clip. Tighten the three

the top hose elbow and new gasket. noting that one also retains bolts to a torque wrench

setting of 8- 10 Ibf ft. (1.1 to 1.4 kg fm). 13 Refit the dipstick guide tube union to the side of the transmission casing. 14 Ease the fuel feed pipe onto the float chamber union. 15 Refit the ignition coil mounting bracket and any radio

suppressor capacitor to the side of the cylinder block and secure

setting of 20 Ib f ft. (2.8 kg fm).

with the two bolts, plain and spring washers. 16 Fit new spark plugs to the cylinder head. Do not forget to check the electrode gaps first.

30 Tighten the camshaft sprocket securing bolt and spring washer to a torque wrench setting of 20 Ib f ft (2.8 kg fm)

17 Insert the fuel pump pushrod, and then Secure with the two bolts and spring washers.

(photo).

18 The cylinder head cover should not be fitted until complete power unit is in place, as it is easily damaged.

the

fuel

pump.

the

53 Engine - refitting to transmission unit

56 Engine and transmission - refitting

Full information will be found in Chapter 6.

54 Crankshaft pulley and vibration damper - refitting 1

Fit the pulley hub Woodruff

crankshaft

(photo).

This,

key to the milled

and

the

operation

in

slot in the

the

next

Paragraph, can be done with the engine away from the transmission unit if considered more convenient. 2 Slide the oil slinger over the end of the crankshaft nose and

push up against the crankshaft sprocket (photo). 3 With the engine bolted to the transmission unit, cut the protruding ends of the oil seals with a sharp knife. Take care they do not fall into the transmission casing (photo). 4 Lubricate the front seal and carefully push it into position. Note on some seals the word ‘’Top” is marked on the front face

(photo). 5 Ease the crankshaft pulley nose of the crankshaft and

and vibration damper over the engage the keyway with the

Woodruff key previously positioned on the crankshaft (photo). 6 Refit the pulley securing bolt and a new tab washer (photo). 7

Tighten the pulley securing bolt to a torque wrench setting of

between 60 to 70 Ib f ft. (8.3 - 9.7 kg fm). (photo). 8 To enable the previous operation to be carried satisfactorily

Although the engine can be replaced by one man using a suitable winch, it is easier if two are present, one to control the winch and the other to guide the engine into position so it does not foul anything. Generally speaking replacement is a reversal of the procedures used when removing the unit, but the

following points are of special note: 1 Ensure all the loose leads, cables etc, are tucked out of the way. If not, it is easy to trap one and so cause much additional work after the unit is replaced. 2 Carefully lower the engine whilst an assistant re-couples the driveshafts to the final drive unit. When finally in position refit the following:

a) b) c) d)

Mounting nuts, bolts and washers. Speedometer drive cables. Clutch slave cylinder; check adjustment. Gear change linkage/rods.

e) Wires

to

oil

pressure

switch,

temperature

gauge

thermal

transmitter, ignition coil, distributor and alternator.

f) Carburettor controls. g) Air cleaner and cylinder head cover.

out

it will be necessary to lock the crankshaft using a

screwdriver as shown in this photo.

55 Engine - final assembly

h) i) j) k) 1) m)

Exhaust system/down pipe to manifold. Earth and starter motor cables. Heater and servo hoses. Vacuum advance and retard pipe. Distributor cap and HT leads. Fuel pump.

n) Battery.

1 Fit a new combined inlet and exhaust manifold gasket taking care it is fitted the correct way round. (photo). 2

Carefully refit the combined

inlet and exhaust

manifold and

carburettor installation to the side of the cylinder head and secure in position with two nuts and spring washers and the seven bolts. Tighten all fixings in a progressive and diagonal

3 Check that the drain taps are closed and refill the cooling system with water. Full information will be found in Chapter 2. 4 Finally refill the power unit with engine oil.

manner (photo). 3 Refit the oil pressure warning light switch to the right-hand side of the cylinder block. (photo). 4 fase the starter motor drive into position. Make sure the main terminal is away from the cylinder block for inertia type

starter motors. (photo). 5 Secure the starter motor washers. (photo).

with

the two

bolts and spring

57 Engine - initial start up after overhaul or major repair

1 Make sure water and fuel 2 If the fuel revolutions of

that the battery is fully charged and that the oil, are replenished. system has been dismantled it will require several the engine on the starter motor to get the petrol

up to the carburettor. An initial prime by pouring petrol down

in

the carburettor feed pipe will help the engine to fire quickly thus relieving the load on the battery.

8 Clean the mating faces of the thermostat housing and cylinder head and fit a new gasket to the thermostat housing.

tickover only (not faster) and bring it up to normal working temperature. 4 As the engine warms up there will be odd smells and some

6

Refit

the

distributor.

Full

information

will

be found

Chapter 4. 7

9

Refit the alternator, as described in Chapter 10.

Fit the housing to the cylinder head and tighten the three

securing bolts to a torque wrench setting of 8 - 10 Ib f ft. (1.1 to 1.4 kg fm). : 10 Fit the thermostat into the housing.

3

As soon

as the engine fires and runs, keep it going ata fast

smoke from parts getting hot and burning off oil deposits. The signs to look for are leaks of oil or water which will be obvious,

if serious. Check also the clamp connections of the exhaust pipes

44

Chapter 1 Engine lubricant

to the manifolds as these do not always ‘find’ their exact gas tight position until the warmth and vibration have acted on them and it is almost certain that they will need tightening further.

or

coolant

is

dripping

out

when

the

engine

is

stationary.

7 Road test the car to check that the timing is correct and giving the necessary smoothness and power. Do not race the engine - when new bearings and/or pistons and rings have been

This should be done, of course, with the engine stopped. 5 When normal running temperature had been reached adjust the idling speed as described in Chapter 3. 6 Stop the engine and wait a few minutes to see if any

fitted it should be treated as a new engine and run in at reduced revolutions for the first 500 miles.

58 Engine - fault diagnosis Symptom

Reason/s

Remedy

Engine fails to spin when

Flat or defective battery Loose battery leads

Defective starter motor

Charge or replace battery. Push-start car. Tighten both terminals and earth ends of earth lead. Run a wire direct from the battery to the starter motor or by-pass the solenoid. Check and retighten strap. Place car in gear and rock from side to side. Alternatively, free exposed square end of shaft with spanner. Remove and recondition.

Ignition system damp or wet

Wipe

starter operated

Defective starter solenoid or switch broken wiring Engine earth strap disconnected Jammed starter motor drive pinion

Engine spins but will not start

or

dry

the

distributor

cap

and

ignition

leads.

Check

Ignition leads to spark plugs loose

and tighten

at both spark plug and

distributor cap ends.

Check the wiring on the CB and SW terminals

Shorted or disconnected low tension leads Dirty,

incorrectly

set,

or

pitted

contact

breaker points Faulty condenser

Check contact breaker points for arcing, remove and fit new. By-pass switch with wire. Remove and replace leads to spark plugs in

Defective ignition switch Ignition leads connected wrong way round

Faulty coil Contact breaker broken

correct order. Remove and fit new coil.

point

spring

earthed

or

No petrol in petrol tank Vapour lock in fuel line (In hot conditions

or at high altitude) Blocked float chamber needle valve Fuel pump filter blocked

Choked or blocked carburettor jets Faulty fuel pump

Too much choke allowing too rich a mixture to wet plugs Float damaged or leaking or seating Float lever incorrectly adjusted

Engine stalls and will not restart

of the coil and to the distributor. Clean, file smooth, and adjust.

needle

not

Ignition failure - In severe traversing water splash No petrol in petrol tank Petrol tank breather choked

broken. Refill tank! Blow into petrol tank, allow engine to cool, or apply a cold wet rag to the fuel line. Remove, clean, and replace. Remove, clean, and replace. Dismantle and clean. Remove, overhaul, and replace. Remove and dry spark plugs or with wide open throttle, push-start the car. Remove, examine, clean and replace float and needle valve as necessary.

Remove and adjust correctly.

Ignition failure - sudden Ignition failure - misfiring stoppage

Check spring is not touching metal part of distributor. Check insulator washers are correctly placed. Renew points if the spring is

Check over low and high tension circuits for breaks in wiring. precludes rain

or

total

Check contact breaker points, clean adjust. Renew condenser if faulty.

after

Dry out ignition leads and distributor cap.

and

Refill tank. Remove petrol cap and clean out breather hole or pipe. Check jet, filter, and needle valve in float chamber for blockage. Drain tank and blow out fuel lines.

Sudden obsrruction in carburettor(s) Water in fuel system Ignition leads loose

Check and tighten as necessary at spark plug and distributor cap ends.

Battery leads loose on terminals Battery earth strap loose on bod, ment point

Check and tighten terminal leads. attach-

Check and tighten earth lead to body attachment point.

Chapter 1 Engine

45

a a

Symptom

Reason/s

Remedy

a

Engine misfires or idles unevenly

Engine earth lead loose Low tension leads to SW and CB terminals

Tighten lead. Check and tighten leads if found loose.

on coil loose

Low tension lead from CB terminal side to distributor loose Dirty, or incorrectly gapped plugs Dirty, incorrectly set, or pitted contact breaker points

Tracking across inside of distributor cover Ignition too retarded Faulty coil Mixture too weak

Air leak in carburettor Air leak at inlet manifold to cylinder head, or inlet manifold to carburettor

Sticking or leaking valves

Weak or broken valve springs Worn valve quides or stems Burnt out exhaust valves

Worn valve guides and stems Weak or broken valve springs

Blown cylinder head gasket (accompanied) by increase in noise) Worn pistons and piston rings Worn or scored cylinder bores set. Too

Contact breaker points incorrectly Incorrect valve clearances Incorrectly set spark plugs Carburation too rich or too weak

automatic

Renew

manifold

gasket as ap-

advanced

Check and reset ignition timing.

gapped

Check and reset contact breaker points. Check and adjust. Remove, clean and regap. Tune carburettor for optimum

starvation

Distributor

leak.

Dismantle engine, renew pistons and rings. Dismantle engine, rebore, renew pistons and rings.

Dirty contact breaker points Fuel filters blocked causing end fuel starvation

vacuum

dicate

Remove cylinder head, renew defective valves. Remove cylinder head, clean, check, and renew valves as necessary. Remove cylinder head and renew valves and valve guides. Remove cylinder head, renew defective springs. Remove cylinder head and fit new gasket.

Sticking or leaking valves

wrongly

Remove and fit new cover. Check and adjust ignition timing. Remove and fit new coil. Check jets, float chamber needle valve, and filters for obstruction. Clean as necessary. Carburettor incorrectly adjusted. Remove and overhaul carburettor. Test by pouring oil along joints. Bubbles in-

Check and renew as necessary. Renew valve guides and valves. Dismantle engine, renew pistons and rings.

Worn pistons and piston rings

Ignition timing or retarded

Remove, clean, and regap. Clean, file smooth, and adjust.

propriate. Adjust to take up wear. Remove cylinder head and renew defective valves. Remove cylinder head, clean, check and renew valves as necessary.

Incorrect valve clearances Burnt out exhaust valves

Lack of power and poor compression

Check and tighten if found loose.

balance

weights

aclvance and retard mechanisms

or

perform-

ance. Remove, clean, and replace. Dismantle,

inspect,

clean,

and

replace

all

fuel filters. Overhaul distributor.

not

functioning correctly Faulty fuel pump

Excessive oil consumption

giving top end fuel starva-

Remove,

overhaul,

tion

tioned fuel pump.

Badly worn perished or missing valve stem oil seals Excessively worn valve stems and valve guides Worn piston rings

Remove,

Worn pistons and cylinder bores Excessive piston ring gap allowing blow-up Piston oil return holes choked Leaking oil filter gasket Leaking tap cover gasket Leaking tappet chest gasket Leaking timing case gasket Leaking sump gasket Loose sump plug

or fit exchange

recondi-

fit new oil seals to valve stems.

Remove cylinder head and fit new valves and ‘ valve guides. Fit oil control rings to existing pistons or purchase new pistons. Fit new pistons and rings, rebore cylinders.

Fit new piston rings and set gap correctly.

Decarbonise Inspect and Inspect and Inspect and Inspect and Inspect and Tighten, fit

engine and pistons. fit new gasket as necessary. fit new gasket as necessary. fit new gasket as necessary. fit new gasket as necessary. fit new gasket as necessary. new gasket if necessary. »

46

Chapter 1 Engine

Symptom

Unusual

noises from engine

Reason/s

Remedy

Worn valve gear (Noisy tapping from top cover) Worn big-end bearing (Regular heavy knock-

Inspect and renew parts as necessary.

ing)

and oilways, fit new bearings. If bearings not broken but worn fit bearing shells. Remove and fit new timing wheels and timing chain.

Worn

chain and gear (Rattling from front of

engine) Worn main bearings (Rumbling and vibration)

lf bearings

broken

up clean

out

oil pump

Remove crankshaft, if bearings worn but not

broken

up,

renew.

If broken

up strip oil

pump and clean out oilways.

Worn

crankshaft

vibration)

(Knocking,

rumbling

and

Regrind crankshaft, fit new main and big-end bearings.

Chapter 2 Cooling system Contents

Antifreeze mixture me Cooling system - draining = Cooling system - fault diagnosis Cooling system- flushing

General description ee eS Radiator - removal, inspection ADE bieaning 3 Radiator - replacement Mee ae =

Cooling system - refilling Expansion tank - removal and Paplecement Fan motor relay -removal and replacement

...

Fan motor relay- testing . Fan motor - removal and Peecemeah Fan motor test and overhaul ... Fan motor thermostatic switch - removal Fan motor thermostatic switch - testing

and replacement

19

3 ae =a

6 aes oe

Temperature gauge sender unit - testing, removal and replacement aa us

3 1

Specifications

Type

Helical gear and differential - integral with gearbox

Ratio: manual gearbox ... automatic transmission 1750 and Vanden Plas: manual gearbox automatic transmission

3.647 3.800 3647 3.800

1500:

‘ ...

Bearing preload

0.001 - 0.002 in. (0.02 - 0.05 mm)

Torque wrench settings: Differential cover nuts:

5/16 in. UNF

3/8 in. UNF Differential end-cover screws

Pinion nut

an

ec

Crown wheel (drive gear) bolts

1

: 1 : 1 21 : 1

Ib f ft

kg fm

18 26 18 150 50

2.49 3.59 2.49 20.74 6.91

5 Undo and remove the final drive housing nuts and lockwashers. Carefully withdraw the final drive housing. (photo).

General description

The differential unit is located on the bulkhead side of the combined engine and transmission unit. It is held in place by nuts and studs. The crownwheel, or drive gear, together with the differential gears, are mounted in the differential unit. The drive pinion is mounted on the third motion shaft. All repairs can be carried out to the component parts of the differential unit only after the engine/transmission unit has been removed from the car. If it is wished to attend to the pinion, it will be necessary to separate the transmission casing from the engine. The differential housing and gearbox casing are machined asa matched pair when assembled so that they can only be replaced as a pair, not separately. Also the final drive gear and pinion are mated and must be changed as a pair and not as individual gears.

6 Remove the collar retaining the interlock spool and lift away the differential assembly complete with bearings. (photo).

7 Using a universal puller and suitable thrust block withdraw the differential assembly bearings. Note which way round the

bearings are fitted. 8 Mark the drive wheel and differential cage so that they may be refitted in their original positions. 9 Knock back the lockwasher tabs and then undo and remove the drive wheel securing bolts. Lift away the drive wheel. 10 Using a suitable diameter paralle! pin punch tap out the two roll pins that retain the differential pinion pin.

11 The pinion pin may next be drifted from the differential cage. 12 Lift away the pinion wheels and thrust washers keeping the pinion wheels and thrust washers in their matched pairs.

13 Next remove the differential gears and thrust washers keeping them in their matched pairs, as well. 2 Differential, replacement

final

drive

wheel

and

pinion

- removal

and

1 Remove the engine and transmission assembly as described in Chapter 1. 2 Undo and remove the set screws and spring washers securing the end-covers to the final drive housing. 3 Carefully lift away the end-covers and gaskets. If there are

any shims behind the left-hand end cover these must be kept in order and with the left-hand end-cover. (photo). 4 Bend back the lockwasher tabs securing the final housing nuts.

drive

14 the 15 the

Manual transmission (to paragraph 17): Refer to Chapter 6 and separate the transmission unit from engine. Undo and remove the set screws and shaped washers securing baffle plate to the interior of the transmission unit.

16 Using a wide blade screwdriver or piece of metal and remove the oil pump outlet connection.

plate undo

17 Undo and remove the two set screws, spring washers securing the oil pump to the transmission

and plain unit. Lift

away the oil pump by moving downward and tilting back. Automatic transmission (to paragraph 29): 18 Refer to Chapter 6 and remove the torque converter housing and torque converter.

118

Fig. 8.1. Component parts of final drive assembly (manual) 1 2

Differential housing Differential side cover - RH

8 9

3 4

Differential side cover - LH Roll pin for differential pin

710 11

Differential pin Differential pinion

5 6 7

Differential cage Crownwheel Crownwheel securing bolt

12 713

Differential gear Thrust washer

ae 2.3 Lifting away end-cover and gasket

|

2.5 Lifting away final drive housing

Bolt lockwasher Differential carrier bearing

119

Hi3ssst

Fig. 8.3. Drive pinion assembly

Fig. 8.2. Final drive housing parts Differential side cover securing bolt and spring washer LH differential side cover Tab washer Differential unit housing Final drive and differential QAAWh

ON Adjustment

H

Speedometer pinion and bush

unit Differential unit housing securing nut RH differential side cover

6

Circlip Speedometer drive gear Nut Lock washer Pinion Woodruff key NQOAGNH™

shims

13560

Fig. 8.4. Differential components (Sec 3) 3

4 5 6

Crownwheel and cage alignment marks Crownwheel lockwashers and bolts Crownwheel Differential cage bearings

7 8 9 10

Tension pins

Pinion pin Pinions and thrustwashers Differential gears and washers

120

Chapter 8 Final drive (differential)

19 Carefully

remove

transmission

casing.

20 Using an Allen pump

securing

the oil feed pipe between

the oil pump and

key of suitable size undo and remove

the oil

operations.

screws.

21 The oil pump may now be lifted away. The pump drive coupling may also be attached or it may stay in the end of the camshaft. 22 Undo and remove the five bolts and spring washers securing the input bearing housing complete with bearing from the transmission unit. 23 The forward clutch may now be withdrawn from the transmission unit. 24 Next remove the top reverse clutch unit from the trans mission unit.

25 Slacken

the locknut

and unscrew

the third gear brake bush

adjuster until it is clear of the brake band.

26 Move

the

brake

band

towards

the

open

end

of

the

transmission unit and withdraw it through the top of the casing. 27 Lock the output shaft by engaging the park lock and then undo and remove the output shaft nut. 28 Pull the park lock wheel from its splines, withdraw the gear train throught the clutch end of the transmission case and lift out the park lock wheel. 29 Remove the final drive ninion from the output shaft.

Manual transmission

the drive key.

32 Turn the selector shaft anti-clockwise and select both first and fifth gears to lock the gear trains. 33 Release the lockwasher tabs and then unscrew the final drjve Pinion retaining nut. Note that this nut has a left-hand thread. 34 Move the first and fifth gears back to their neutral position and slide off the lockwasher and final drive pinion from the third motion shaft.

35 Clean all parts removed and inspect the gears for wear, chipped teeth or damaged teeth, the thrust washers for wear or cracking and the casing for damage. Obtain new parts as necessary. As the final drive gear and pinion are mated they must be changed as a pair and not as individual gears.

is the

reverse

sequence

to

removal

but

the

following additional points should be noted:

a)

Use a new final drive pinion nut lock washer and tighten the nut

(left-hand thread)

to a torque

wrench

setting of 150 Ib

ft (20.7 kg fm). b)

If new

differential gears are being fitted it will be necessary

to fit new circlips into the retaining grooves in the gears using a suitable diameter drift.

c)

Fit the drive wheel to its original position on the cage if it is not being renewed, fit new lockwashers and tighten the securing bolts in a progressive and diagonal manner to a final

torque wrench setting of 50 Ib ft (6.91 kg fm). 3.

Differential housing oil seal - removal and replacement

1

Drain the power

unit oil into a suitable capacity container.

2 Apply the handbrake, check the rear wheels, jack up the front of the car and support on firmly based axle stands. Remove the roadwheel. 3 It is now necessary to release the driveshaft from the final drive. For this a special tool is required. See Chapter 7, Section 2

or 3 (as applicable). 4

Undo

and

remove

the

nut

and

spring

washer

securing

the

suspension lower arms to the swivel hub. 5 Using a universal ball joint separator, detach the suspension lower arm from the swivel hub. 6 Unlock and then remove the nut that secures the suspension upper arm to the swivel hub.

7

Using a universal

ball joint separator

upper arm from the swivel hub.

9 Wipe the area around the hose to metal brake pipe connection and then unscrew the union nut to release the pipe from the brake hose at the front hub bracket. 10 Unscrew the nut and washer to release the hose from the bracket. Tape the open pipe ends to stop dirt ingress. 11 Carefully withdraw the driveshaft from the final drive. 12 Temporarily refit the swivel hub to the suspension arm so as to support the swivel hub. 13 The oil seal may now be removed from the differential housing using a hook ended tool such as an old screwdriver with the end suitably bent. Note which way round the seal is fitted.

14 Refitting the oil seal and driveshaft assembly is the reverse sequence to removal. The following additional points ahould be noted. a) The swivel hub to suspension arms securing nuts must be

tightened to a torque wrench setting of 38lb ft (5.30 kg fm). b) Bleed the brake hydraulic system as described c) Do not forget to refill the power unit with oil.

4

(to paragraph 36):

30 Unscrew and lift away the speedometer pinion and bush assembly. 31 Using a pair of circlip pliers remove the circlip that retains the speedometer drive gear and then slide off the gear. Recover

36 Reassembly

8 Wipe the top of the brake master cylinder reservoir, unscrew the cap and place some polythene over the top of the filler neck. Replace the cap. This is to stop syphoning during subsequent

detach

the suspension

in Chapter 9.

Differential cage bearings - removal and replacement (manual

gear box). 1 Remove the engine and transmission assembly as described in Chapter 1. 2 Undo and remove the set screws and spring washers that

secure the end covers to the final drive housing. 3 Carefully lift away the end-covers and gaskets.

If there are

any shims behind the left-hand end-cover these must be left with

the end-cover. 4 Bend back

the

lockwasher

tabs

securing

the

final

drive

housing nuts.

5 Undo and remove the final drive housing nuts and lockwashers. Carefully withdraw the final drive housing from the casing. 6 Remove the collar retaining the interlock spool and lift away the differential assembly complete with bearings.

7 Using a universal puller and suitable thrust block withdraw the differential assembly bearings. 8 If the bearings are worn it is probable that the end-covers have also worn so remove these using a screwdriver. Note which way round the oil seals are fitted. 9 Clean off all traces of any jointing compound and gaskets from the casing and housing mating faces. 10 It is advisable to renew the selector shaft oil seal from the differential housing whilst renewing the bearings so remove this seal using a screwdriver. Note which way round the seal is fitted. 11 To reassemble first fit a new oil seal to each end cover using a suitable diameter drift. 12 Fit new bearings onto the cage using a suitable diameter tubular drift. 13 Fit a new selector shaft oil seal to the differential housing. 14 Refit the locating collar into the groove of the interlock spool. 15 Fit the differential assembly into the transmission casing so that the assembly is biased towards the right-hand side of the transmission casing. 16 Tape the selector shaft to protect the oil seal and then refit

the differential housing. Tighten the nuts sufficiently to hold the bearings firmly yet allow the differential to be horizontally when the right-hand end-cover is fitted.

moved

17 Remove the tape from the end of the selector shaft. 18 Fit a new right-hand end-cover gasket and then replace the end-cover. Tighten the set screws to a torque wrench setting of 18 Ib ft (2.5 kg fm) (photo). 19 Fit the left-hand end-cover less its gasket and any shims and tighten the securing screws in a diagonal and progressive manner for it to just nip the bearing outer races. Any further tightening will damage the end cover.

Chapter 8 Final drive (differential)

121

A

ut

a Ng

+

Vines) srS07,

,

4.18 Tightening end-cover securing bolts

20 Refer

‘A’.

to Fig 8.5 and using feeler gauges determine

|f there

is a variation

in readings the end-cover

the gap

securing

screws have not been evenly tightened. 21 Should no gap exist between the flange and casing, remove the cover and add a known thickness of shims between the cover and bearings to produce a clearance. This shim pack thickness must be included in the subsequent calculation. 22 The shim requirement may be calculated in the following manner.

(The figures used are for a typical example):

Gasket (compressed thickness) Minus (-) measured clearance End float (less shims)

0.008 in (0.20mm) 0.007in (0.18mm) 0.001in (0.02mm)

Plus required preload of

0.001 - 0.002 in. (0.02 - 0.05 mm)

0.001

Shim thickness required

0.002 in (0.05 mm)

in (0.02 mm)

23 Smear a little grease onto the adjustment shims to the bearing thrust face. 24 Fit a new gasket and replace the end-cover so holes are correctly aligned. Refit the securing tighten to a torque wrench setting of 18lb ft (7.5 kg 25 Tighten

the final drive housing

and fit them that the oil screws and fm).

nuts in a progressive

manner

to a final torque wrench setting of:

5/16 in nuts 3/8 in nuts

5

Differential

18 Ib ft (2.5 kg fm) 26 Ib ft (3.6 kg fm)

cage

bearings removal

Fig. 8.5. Differential side cover adjustments (Sec. 4) ‘A’ measured gap between cover flange and differential housing

and replacement.

(auto-

matic transmission).

6 Lift away the differential end sleeve and then remove the differential assembly complete with bearings. 7 Using a universal puller and suitable thrust block withdraw

the differential assembly bearings. 8 If the bearings are worn it is possible that the end sleeve and end-cover are also worn so remove these with a screwdriver. Note which way round the oil seals are fitted. 9 Clean off all traces of any jointing compound and gaskets from the casing and housing mating faces.

1 Remove the engine and transmission assembly as described in Chapter 1. 2 Undo and remove the set screws and spring washers that secure the end-covers to the final drive housing.

the end-covers and gaskets.

If there are

any shims behind one of the end-covers these must

3

Carefully

lift away

be left with

the respective end-cover. 4 Bend back the lockwasher tabs securing the final drive housing nuts. 5 Undo and remove the final drive housing nuts and lockwashers. Carefully withdraw the final drive housing from the casing.

10 Remove the ‘O' ring seal from the differential end sleeve. 11 To reassembly first fit a new oil seal to the end sleeve and end-cover. 12 Fit new bearings onto the cage using a suitable diameter tubular drift.

13 Smear a new ‘O’ ring seal with engine grade oil and fit the seal to the end sleeve and refit the end sleeve to the transmission casing making sure that the sleeve locates correctly on its dowel. 14 Reassembly is now the reverse sequence to dismantling but it will be necessary to adjust the bearing pre-load. This is similar to that for the manual gearbox and full information will be found in Section 4, paragraphs 18 to 25 inclusive.

Chapter 9 Braking system Contents

Bleeding the hydraulic system. ee Brake master cylinder (single)- cignentine ane see

sf uyy

Brake master cylinder (single) - removal and replacement

...

3 17

Front disc brake pad - removal, inspection and replacement General description oss oak wae aes os =

16

Handbrake - adjustment

se

ee)

Brake master cylinder (tandem) - dismantling and reassembly « Brake master cylinder tandem! - mors ance feclscernant

We 18

Handbrake cables - removal and feniaccuiene a Handbrake lever assembly - dismantling and reassembly Handbrake lever - removal and replacement ... oe

wat ... ee

9 11 0

Brake pedal - removal and replacement

25

Hydraulic pipes and hoses

a

26

Brake shoe adjuster - removal and replacement Braking system- fault diagnosis ee Drum brake backplate - removal and replacement! Drum brakes - adjustment Drum brake shoes - inspection, renova and henteee ment

6 2) 7 2 4

Pressure differential warning actuator overhaul and replacement as Rear brake wheel cylinders - removal, overhaul ... sg Vacuum servo unit- desennnion

..

24

a Ree

oe

FS

—

12 1

xa wl ve - Paniovels ingpecvon any ae a a — “a

Front brake disc dust shield - removal and replacement

15

Vacuum servo unit filter - removal and repiecemmena

Front brake disc - removal, renovation and replacement Front disc brake caliper - removal, overhaul and replace-

14

Vacuum servo unit -overhaul ... one Vacuum servo unit - removal and replacement

ment

13

Specifications

Make:

Girling

Footbrake:

Hydraulic, servo assistance on all four wheels

Handbrake:

Mechanical on rear wheels only

Type of brakes: Front Rear

ts

Discs Drums

Front brakes: 9.68 in. (246 mm) 2.0 in. (50.8 mm)

Disc diameter Wheel cylinder diameter

Pad area (total) Pad minimum

17.4 in2 (112.2 cm2)

as

0.125 in. (3.175 mm) 0.007 in. (0.17 mm)

permissible thickest

Disc run out (max)

Rear brakes: Drum

diameter

Wheel cylinder diameter _ ... Shoe width Total swept area Soe Hub bearing endfloat ged

Servo unit type:

a

af

8.0 in. (203.2 mm) 0.5625 in. (14.2875 mm) 1.5 in. (38.1 mm)

et

a

3

ne

oc Be

ee as

ose ah

eae Sexor

0.001

Pe

Ss

es

Se

Girling ‘Super Vac’ or Lockheed 28

Hydraulic fluid:

76 in. (490 cm 2)

- 0.005 in. (0.03 - 0.13 mm)

Universal brake and clutch fluid to SAE 1703c or FMV $S116 DOT 3

Master cylinder: Single: Type Diameter Tandem: Type Diameter

CV (centre valve) with integral reservoir 0.750 in. (19.05 mm)

...

3 ...

tee

see

see

res

ies

CV/TV (tipping valve) with integral reservoir 0.750 in. (19.05 mm)

es a

ows 5 bn eZ OWES

ee Be,

Chapter 9 Braking system Torque wrench settings: Braking disc to drive flange bolts Braking disc shield to swivel bolt Caliper to swivel hub bolts ... Front hose bracket nuts Rear brake backplate bolt nuts Bleed screw Adjuster nuts Master cylinder to servo Master cylinder tipping valve nut

... ...

— ...

Pressure differential switch

Sea

Pressure differential warning actuator adaptors Driveshaft nut

1

ha ...

123

Ib f ft

kg fm

42

5.81

21 66 21

2.96 9.18 2.96

20

2.75

5

0.69

5 17 40

0.69 2.05 Bs

Zo 38

0.35 5:2

150

20.7

PDWA switch Wheel nuts

46

General description

2

3

Disc brakes are fitted to the front wheels and drum brakes to the rear. All are operated under servo assistance from the brake

Pedal, this being connected to the master cylinder and servo assembly mounted on the bulkhead. The front brakes are of the rotating disc and semi-rigid mounted caliper designs, whilst the rear brakes are of the internal expanding single leading shoe type and operated by either the hand or footbrake. The front brake disc is secured to the driving flange of the hub, and the caliper mounted on the steering swivel. From Fig 9.16 it will be seen that on the inner disc face side of the caliper is a single hydraulic cylinder in which are placed two outward facing pistons. One piston is in contact with a friction pad which, in turn is in contact with one face of the disc, and the second piston presses on a yoke which transmits the pressure to a second pad in contact with the outer face of the disc Hydraulic fluid is able to pass to the cavity between the two pistons. The rear brakes each have one cylinder operating two shoes. Attached to each of the rear wheel operating cylinders are. mechanical expanders, operated by the handbrake lever through a cable which runs from the brake lever to the backplate brake

levers. This provides an independent means of rear brake application. Drum brakes have to be adjusted periodically to compensate for wear in the linings, whereas the front disc brakes are adjusted automatically. It is not normal to have to adjust the handbrake system, as its efficiency is largely dependent on the condition

0.5 6.42

Drum brakes - adjustment

1 Jack-up the rear of the car and place on firmly based stands. Also chock the front wheels to ensure that the car cannot roll back wards or forwards. 2 Release the handbrake and working under the car, locate the

adjuster

as shown

in

Fig.

9.1.

The

brakes

are

adjusted

the adjuster back until the wheel is free to rotate without the shoes rubbing. 4 Spin the wheel and apply the brakes hard to centralise the shoes. Re-check that it is not possible to turn the adjusting screw further without the shoes ‘binding’. 5 Note: A rubbing noise when the wheel is spun is usually due to dust on the brake drum and shoe lining. If there is no Obvious slowing down of the wheel due to brake binding there is no need to slacken off the adjusters until the noise disappears. !t is better to remove the drum and clean out the dust taking care

not to inhale any dust. 6

Repeat

this process for the other brake drum.

A good tip is

to paint the head of the adjusting screws white which will facilitate future adjusting by making the adjuster heads easier to see. Also a little graphite penetrating oil on the adjuster threads will check any possibility of seizure through rusting.

of the brake linings and the adjustment of the brake shoes. The handbrake can, however, be adjusted separately to the footbrake operated hydraulic system. The hydraulic brakes function in the following manner: On application of the brake pedal, hydraulic fluid under pressure is pushed from the master cylinder to the brake operating cylinders at each wheel, by means of a four way union, steel pipes and flexible hoses. On later models a tandem master cylinder is

fitted so that if part of the brake hydraulic system should fail at least two separate brakes will still be diagonally split. On dual circuit hydraulic layouts warning actuator, located within the fitted into the pipe line leading to the a warning light should the pressure

operative. The system is

a pressure differential engine compartment is rear brakes and operates in the system become

~ unbalanced. In Allegro 3 models, this warning system informs the driver when there has been a failure in either section of the dual circuit system. Braking operation will still be maintained in the second circuit, although at reduced pressure. A mechanically operated stop-light switch is secured to the

pedal mounting bracket and is operated by the brake pedal lever. brake fittings are used on models Metric Warning: covered by this manual. Always use metric spanners and ensure

that when threaded replacement parts are being used they have metric threads.

by

turning the square-headed adjuster in a clockwise or anticlockwise direction. Always use a square-headed brake adjusting spanner as the edges of the adjuster are easily burred if an adjustable wrench or open ended spanner is used. 3 Turn the adjuster in a clockwise direction, when viewed from the centre of the car, until the brake shoes lock the wheel. Turn

Fig. 9.1. Drum brake adjuster (arrowed) (Sec. 2)

Chapter 9 Braking system

3

Bleeding the hydraulic system

Whenever the brake hydraulic system has been overhauled, a Part renewed, or the level in the reservoir becomes too low, air will have entered the system necessitating its bleeding. During the operation, the level of hydraulic fluid in the reservoir should net be allowed to fall below half full, otherwise air will be drawn in again. 1 Obtain a clean and dry glass jar, plastic tubing at least 15

inches (381.0 mm) long and of suitable diameter to fit tightly

over the bleed screw, and a supply of hydraulic fluid. 2 Check that on each rear brake back plate the wheel cylinder is free to slide within its locating slot. Ensure that all connections are tight and all bleed screws closed. Chock the wheels and release the handbrake. 3

Fill the master cylinder reservoir and the bottom inch of the

jar

with

hydraulic

fluid,

Take

extreme

care

that

no

fluid

is

allowed to come into contact with the paintwork as it acts asa solvent and will damage the finish.

4 Single master cylinder: Start bleeding at the front bleed screw which is furthest from the master cylinder and finish at the rear brake nearest to the master cylinder (ie. front left. front

right, rear left and rear right.) 5 Tandem master cylinder: Bleed the system supplied by the secondary master cylinder chamber first. Commence bleeding at the front bleed screw and then bleed the diagonally opposite rear brake (ie, front right, rear left, front left and rear right.) 6 Having decided the procedure, open the first bleed screw about three-quarters of a turn. 7 An assistant should now pump the brake pedal by first depressing it one full stroke followed by three short but rapid strokes and allowing the pedal to return of its own accord. Check the fluid level in the reservoir. Carefully watch the flow of fluid into the glass jar and, when air bubbles cease to emerge

with the fluid during the next down stroke, tighten the bleed screws remove the plastic bleed tube and tighten the bleed screw

to a torque

wrench

setting of 5 Ib f ft (0.7 kg fm). Do not

overtighten. Replace the rubber fluid in the reservoir.

dust cap if fitted. Top-up the

Fig. 9.2. Brake bleed sequence (Sec. 3) Single master cylinder A_ rhd models B thd models Tandem master cylinder C All models

Hi3691

Fig. 9.3. Brake drum assembly (Sec. 4) Hub dust cap Nyt retainer

6

Bearing inner race (outboard)

7

Bearing outer race

Split pin

8

Bearing inner race (inboard)

Hub nut QAWNHs Washer

9 Oil seal 10 Brake drum

Chapter 9 Braking system 8 Continue bleeding the hydraulic system until all four units have been bled. 9 Sometimes it may be found that the bleed operation for one Or more cylinders is taking a considerable time. The cause is probably air being drawn past the bleed screw threads when the screw is loose. TO counteract this condition, it is recommended that at the end of each downward stroke the bleed screw be tightened to stop air being drawn past the threads. 10 If after the bleed operation has been completed, the brake pedal operation still feels spongy, this is an indication that there is still air in the system, or that the master cylinder is faulty. 11 PDWA valve: Should it be noticed that during the bleed operation and with the ignition switched on the warning light

125

brake pedal and, when the light goes out, release the pedal and tighten the bleed screw. 12 Check and top up the reservoir fluid level with fresh

hydraulic fluid. Never

re-use oid brake fluid. Finally check the

rear drum brake adjustment.

4

Drum

brake shoes - inspection, removal and replacement

Note: Before attempting this operation, beginning of Section 16 in Chapter 117.

refer to the Note at the

After high mileage it will be necessary to fit replacement shoes with new linings. Fitting new brake linings to old shoes is

until all traces of

not considered economic, or possible, without the use of special

air are removed. Ascertain which brake caused the light to glow and then attach a bleed tube to the bleed screw at the opposite end of the car and open the bleed screw. Slowly depress the

equipment. However if the services of a local garage or workshop having brake re-lining equipment are available then there is no reason why the original shoes should not be successfully relined.

glows, the bleed operation

must

be continued

4.4 The split pin must next be

4.1 Rear wheel removed

removed

be

4.6b Lifting away special washer. Earlier type shown — for details of later type see Chapter 11 Section 16.

4.5 Removing nut retaine

4.7 Removal of brake drum tion

126

Chapter 9 Braking system

Ensure that linings of the correct specification are fitted to the shoes. 1 Chock the front wheels jack-up the rear of the car and place on firmly based axle stands. Remove the road wheel (photo). On later models wheel removal is not necessary as an inspection plug is incorporated in the brake backplate for checking the lining wear. 2 Release the handbrake and back off the brake shoe adjuster

by turning in an anticlockwise centre of the car.

3

direction when viewed from the

Using a wide bladed screwdriver, carefully prise off the hub

dust cap. (photo). 4

With a pair of pliers straighten the legs and withdraw the split

pin, (photo). 5

Next

lift away

the nut retainer from over the nut. (photo).

6 Unscrew the nut and lift away followed by the washer from the stub shaft (photo)

ea:

wie

7 The brake drum assembly may now be removed from the stub shaft. Be prepared for the left-hand hub to have a left-hand thread and the right-hand hub to have a right-hand thread. If it is tight, use a soft faced hammer and tap outwards on the

circumference,

rotating

the

drum

whilst

completing

2

this

Operation. (photo). 8 The brake linings should be renewed if they are so worn that the rivet heads are flush with the surface of the lining, or will be

before the next inspection. If bonded linings are fitted, they must be renewed when the lining material has worn down to 0.10 in

ik Hi3sce

(2.5 mm) at its thinnest point (photo).

Fig. 9.4. Rear brake components (Sec 4)

9 Using a pair of pliers, release the trailing brake shoe anti-rattle springs by rotating through 90°. Lift away the steady

Leading shoe

5

Trailing shoe

pin, spring and cup washer.

Wheel cylinder

6

Return spring (plain)

Abutment for trailing shoe spring assembly

7 8

Return spring (shaped) Adjuster

10 Disengage the trailing shoe from the wheel cylinder abutment and then the abutment in the adjuster link. 11 Repeat the operation in paragraph 9 for the leading shoe. 12 Carefully remove both brake shoes complete with springs, at

the same time easing the handbrake operating lever from the leading shoe. Take care that the links in the adjuster housing do not fall out, and retain them with an elastic band around the adjuster assembly. 13 If the shoes are to be left off for a while, do not depress the brake pedal otherwise the piston will be ejected from the cylinder causing unnecessary work.

14 Thoroughly

clean all traces of dust from the shoes, back

plates and brake drums using a stiff brush. It is recommended that compressed air is not used as it blows up dust which should not be inhaled. Brake dust can cause brake judder or squeal and, therefore, it is important to clean Out dust as described.

15 Check that the piston is free in its cylinder, that the rubber dust covers are undamaged and in position, and that there are no hydraulic fluid leaks. Ensure the handbrake lever assembly is free and the brake adjuster operates correctly. Lubricate the threads on the adjusting wedge with a graphite based penetrating oil. 16 Prior to reassembly, smear a trace of brake grease on to the steady platforms, both ends of the brake shoes and the adjuster links. Do not allow any grease to come into contact with the linings or rubber parts. Refit the shoes in the reverse sequence to removal, taking care that the adjuster links are correctly positioned in the adjuster housing with the angle of the link registering against the adjuster wedge. The two pull off springs should preferably be renewed every time new shoes are fitted and must be refitted in their original web holes. Position the upper one between the web and the backplate and the lower one between the web and brake drum (when fitted). The double section spring is the lowermost spring.

17 Back-off the adjuster, and replace the brake drum and hub assembly. Refit the special washer and nut.

18

Spin the brake drum and hub and while it is rotating tighten

the hub nut to a torque wench setting 5 Ib f ft (0.69 kg fm). 19 Stop the drum

20 Tighten

and hub from rotating and back off the nut.

the hub nut finger tight and then fit the hub nut

retainer so that one arm of the retainer covers the left-hand half of the split pin hole in the stub shaft.

WOMm Anti-rattle

21 Slacken the hub nut and retainer to uncover fully the split pin hole. 22 Fit a new split pin, bending its legs circumferentially around the nut retainer to lock the nut and retainer. 23 Do not pack the dust cap with grease. Replace the road wheel. 24 Adjust the rear brakes as described in Section 2 and then

lower the car to the ground. Check

correct adjustment of the

handbrake and finally road test.

5

Rear brake wheel cylinder - removal, inspection and overhaul

If hydraulic fluid is leaking from the brake wheel cylinder, it may be necessary to dismantle it and replace the seal. Should brake fluid be found running down the side of the wheel or if it is noticed

that a pool

of liquid forms alongside one wheel and

the fluid level in the master cylinder had dropped, it is indicative of a failed seal. 1 Remove the brake drum/hub assembly and brake shoes as described in Section 4. Clean the rear of the backplate using a

stiff brush, Place a quantity of rag under the back plate to catch any hydraulic fluid that may issue from the open pipe or wheel cylinder. 2 Wipe the top of the brake master cylinder reservoir and unscrew the cap. Place a piece of thick polythene over the top of

the reservoir and replace the cap. This is to stop hydraulic fluid syphoning out. 3 Using an

open

ended

spanner,

carefully

unscrew

the

hydraulic pipe connection union to the rear of the wheel cylinder. 4 Extract the split pin and lift away the washer and clevis pin connecting the handbrake cable yoke to the wheel cylinder Operating lever. 5 Ease off the rubber boot from the rear of the wheel cylinder. 6 Using a screwdriver, carefully draw off the retaining plate and spring plate from the rear of the wheel cylinder. 7 The wheel cylinder may now be lifted away from the brake backplate. Detach the handbrake lever from the wheel cylinder.

127

Fig. 9.5. Exploded view of

wheel cylinder (Sec. 5) Clip Dust cover Piston Seal Bleed screw DaARWY™ Body

Fig. 9.6. Rear brake wheel

cylinder removal (Sec. 5) Clevis pin Split pin Washer Union nut Dust cover Spring clip

Spring plate ANAAAWHY™ Handbrake /ever

8

©

&. SS—3 2

Fig. 9.7. Brake shoe

adjuster (Sec. 6) Securing nut Washer Adjuster Adjuster link

Adjuster wedge

ANRWHOA Adjuster

HI3693

body

128

Chapter 9 Braking system

8 To dismantle the wheel cylinder, first ease off the rubber dust cover retaining ring with a screwdriver, and the rubber dust. cover itself. Withdraw the piston from the wheel cylinder body and, with the fingers, remove the piston seal from the piston noting which way round it is fitted. (Do not use a metal screwdriver as this could scratch the piston). 9 Inspect the inside of the cylinder for score marks caused by impurities in the hydraulic fluid. If any are found, the cylinder and piston will require renewal. Note: If the wheel cylinder requires renewal always ensure that the replacement is exactly similar to the one removed. 10 If the cylinder is sound, thoroughly clean it out with fresh hydraulic fluid. 11 The old rubber seal will probably be swollen and visibly worn. Smear a new rubber seal with hydraulic fluid and reassemble into the cylinder. Fit a new dust seal and retaining clip. 12 Using brake grease, smear the back plate where the wheel cylinder slides, and refit the handbrake lever on the wheel cylinder ensuring that it is the correct way round. The spindles of the lever must engage in the recess on the cylinder

arms. 13 The handbrake lever may now be fed through the slot in the backplate until the neck of the wheel cylinder is correctly located in the slot. 14 Slide the spring plate between the wheel cylinder, taking care the pips of the spring plate engage in the holes of the retaining plate. 15 Replace the rubber

boot and reconnect the handbrake cable yoke to the handbrake lever. Insert the clevis pin, head upwards, and plain washer. Lock it with a new split pin. 16 Reassembling the brake shoes and drum/hub assembly is the reverse sequence to removal. Finally bleed the hydraulic system as described in Section 3.

6

8

Handbrake - adjustment It

is

usual

when

the

excessive free movement taken

up.

However,

rear

brakes

rear

brake

renewed

any

in time, the handbrake

cables will stretch

linings

recently

are

and

in good

the

condition,

handbrake

or

reaches

they

have

the end

been

of its

2 Release the handbrake lever and then pull it on until third notch position on the ratchet is reached. 3 Push against the lower edge of the rear seat, at the centre free it from the body clips. Lift the seat to gain access to handbrake compensator. 4 Release the locknut and with an open-ended spanner hold

the and the

the

forward cable hexagon. Turn the adjuster until the correct tension is obtained and then tighten the locknut. It should now be possible to just turn the rear wheels. 5 Release the handbrake lever and check that the rear brakes are not binding.

9

Handbrake cables - removal and replacement the rear

of the car and

Push against the lower edge of the rear seat, at the centre and

free it from the body clips. Lift away the seat to gain access to the handbrake compensator. Also remove the rear floor cover.

shoes as described in Section 4. 2 Undo and remove the two adjuster retaining nuts and shakeproof washers. The adjuster can now be lifted away from

that

ratchet travel before the brakes operate, adjust the cable as follows: 1 Refer to Section 2 and ensure the rear brakes are correctly adjusted.

2

1 Should it be necessary to remove the brake adjuster, first remove the road wheel, brake drum/hub assembly and brake

adjusted

and it will be necessary to take up the free play by shortening the forward cable at the point where it is attached to the compensator. Never try to adjust the handbrake to compensate for wear on the rear brake linings. It is usually badly worn brake linings that lead to the excessive handbrake travel. If upon inspection the

1 Chock the front wheels, jack-up support on firmly based axle stands.

Brake shoe adjuster - removal and replacement

are

of the handbrake will automatically be

Front cable

and two links between the fingers and rotating the adjuster wedge whereupon the two links should move together.

1 Remove the seat belt stalks and centre console and then undo and remove the six self-tapping screws securing the handbrake lever cover retainer. 2 Pull the cover up the lever and move the handbrake lever to the off position. 3 Undo and remove the two bolts, spring and plain washers securing the handbrake lever base to the floor panel. 4 Withdraw the split pin and lift away the plain washer and clevis securing the front cable yoke to the underside of the lever. 5 Slacken the locknut and unscrew the front cable from the adjuster nut located at the front of the compensator.

7

Drum brake back plate - removal and replacement

7 Refitting the front cable is the reverse sequence to removal. Make sure the cable abutment is fitted to the inside face on

1

To remove the backplate, refer to Section 4 and remove the

correctly. Adjust the cable as described in Section 8.

the backplate. 3 Check that the adjuster wedge can be screwed both in out to its fullest extent without showing signs of tightness. 4 Lift away the two adjuster links and thoroughly clean adjuster assembly. Inspect the adjuster body and two links signs of excessive wear and fit new parts as necessary. 5 Lightly smear the adjuster links with brake grease reassemble. Double check correct operation by holding the

and

the for

6

The front cable may now be lifted away.

seat belt bracket. Ensure that the seat belt centre console pivots

drum/hub assembly. 2 Extract the split pin and lift away the plain washer locking the clevis pin securing the handbrake cable yoke to the wheel

cylinder handbrake lever. Lift away the clevis pin. 3 Wipe the top of the brake master cylinder

reservoir

and

unscrew the cap. Place a piece of thick polythene over the reservoir and refit the cap. This is to stop hydraulic fluid syphoning out. 4 Usingan open-ended spanner, carefully unscrew the hydraulic Pipe connection union to those of the wheel cylinder. 5 Undo and remove the nuts, bolts and spring washers securing the brake backplate to the radius arm. Lift away the backplate. 6 Refitting the backplate is the reverse sequence to removal. It will be necessary to bleed the brake hydraulic system as

described in Section 3.

Rear Cable 1 Extract the split pin and lift away the washer and clevis pin connecting the handbrake cable yoke to the wheel cylinder Operating lever. 2 Detach the balance lever from the rear cable nipple.

3

Remove

necessary

the rear

for a second

cable

retaining

person

under

nut.

It will probably

be

the car to hold the outer

cable hexagon. 4 Undo and remove the nut and spring washer and detach the cable abutment from the suspension arm bracket. 5 Remove the clips securing the cable to the suspension arm and completely remove the rear handbrake cable. 6 The sequence for removing the second rear cable is identical to that just described.

129

Fig. 9.8. Handbrake cable assemblies - removal (Sec. 9) Screw ‘ Cover retainer Cover Bolt

Clevis pin QArAwWN™

6 7 8 9 = 0)

Nut Front cable Balance lever Nut and washers

Clevis pin

Split pin Washer Nut Cable retaining clip Cable abutment

130

Chapter 9 Braking system

10 Handbrake lever - removal and replacement

1 Carefully pull back the floor covering around the handbrake lever and then undo and remove the six self-tapping screws securing the handbrake lever cover retainer. 2 Pull the cover up the lever and move the lever to the off position.

3

Extract

connecting

0)

7

9

en”

handbrake

cable yoke

to the underside

of the

HI3695

8

11 Handbrake lever assembly - dismantling and reassembly

Fig. 9.9. Handbrake lever component parts (Sec. 11)

assembly.

1

71

Pivot pin

2 3 4 5 6

Washer Ratchet Pawl retaining rivet Pawl Operating shaft

7

8 9 70 171.

Button

Starlock washer Plain washer Spring Lever

2

Refer

handbrake cable as described in Section 8.

to

Section

10

the

handbrake

lever

the head from the lever

pull the

button

from

the operating

shaft.

Remove

the

Starlock washer. 5 Inspect the pawl and ratchet for wear and obtain new parts as

necessary. 6 Reassembly of the handbrake lever assembly is the reverse sequence to removal. Lubricate all moving parts with a little engine oil.

12.1b Caliper ready for pad removal

12.3b Withdrawing pad retaining pin

remove

Using either a drill or file remove

aie

12.1a Removing road wheel

and

Pivot pin. Tap out the remains of the pin and separate the lever from the ratchet and mounting bracket. Remove the ferrule. 3 Using either a drill or file, remove the head from the pawl rivet. Tap out the remains of the rivet and lift away the pawl. 4 Withdraw the operating shaft assembly from the lever and

then 7 Refitting the rear cable is the reverse sequence to removal. Make sure the cable abutment is fitted to the /VS/DE FACE on the suspension arm bracket. Apply a little grease to the exposed section of the rear cable and yoke. Also ensure the rubber bellows are correctly located to prevent dirt ingress. Adjust the

Bee

the

handbrake lever. 4 Undo and remove the two bolts, spring and plain washers securing the handbrake lever frame to the floor panel. 5 Lift away the handbrake lever assembly. 6 Refitting the handbrake lever is the reverse sequence to removal. Adjust the cable as described in Section 8.

oe 6

a

che split pin and lift away the washer and clevis pin

12.3c Lifting away the pads

131

Chapter 9 Braking system

12 Front disc brake pad- removal, inspection and replacement 1

Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of the car and place

on firmly based axle stands. Remove the road wheel. (photos). 2

Inspect

the thickness

of the lining material and, if it is less

than 0.125 inch (3.175mm)

it is recommended

that the pads be

renewed. If one of the pads is slightly more worn than the other, it is permissible to change these round. Always fit new pads of the manufacturer’s recommended

specification.

:

3 Using a pair of pliers, withdraw the two pad retaining pin locking wire clips and withdraw the retaining pins. The two pads

may now be lifted out of the caliper. (photos). 4 To refit the pads, it is first necessary to extract a little hydraulic fluid from the system. To do this, fit a plastic bleed tube to the bleed screw and immerse the free end in 1 inch

(25.4 mm)

of hydraulic

fluid

in a jar. Slacken

off the bleed

screw one complete turn and press back the indirect piston. Next, push the yoke towards the disc until the new indirect pad can be inserted. Press back the direct piston into the bore and then tighten the bleed screw. Fit the new direct pad. 5 Insert the retaining pins with their heads furthermost from the caliper pistons and secure with wire clips. 6 Wipe the top of the hydraulic fluid reservoir, remove the cap

and top-up; then depress the brake pedal several times, to settle the pads, and recheck the hydraulic fluid level.

HIS696

Fig. 9.10. Disc brake caliper removal (Sec. 13) Union nut Nut

4 5

Shaped bolt Brake hose

Spring washer

6

Caliper assembly

13 Front disc brake caliper - removal, overhaul and replacement. 1 Chock the rear wheels, apply the handbrake, jack-up the front front wheel trim and slacken the wheel nuts. Jack-up the front of the car and support on firmly based stands. Remove the road wheel. 2 Wipe the top of the brake master cylinder reservoir and unscrew the cap. Place a piece of thick polythene over the top and refit the cap. This is to prevent hydraulic fluid syphoning

1

out.

3 Using an open-ended spanner, undo the union nut securing the brake hydraulic pipe at the support bracket on the front swivel hub. 4 Remove the nut and lockwasher to release the front hose from the bracket on the front swivel hub. Remove the lockwasher and plug the hose to prevent dirt ingress. 5 Undo and remove the two nuts and spring washers and withdraw the hose support bracket from the caliper bolts.

6

Undo and remove the two caliper securing bolts and carefully

lift the caliper assembly from the brake disc. 7 Using a pair of pliers, withdraw the two pad retaining pin wire clips and remove the two retaining pins. Lift away the pads. 8 Place the yoke of the caliper between soft faces in a bench vice and tighten sufficiently to hold the caliper. 9 Using the finger, press the indirect piston fully into its bore in the caliper and then press the cylinder body down. 10 Make a note of the position of the yoke spring relative to the yoke, and then lift away the spring. 11 Very

carefully

remove

the

retaining

rings and dust covers

from the cylinder, if necessary using a small screwdriver. The bore or piston must not be scratched. 12 Lift out the special bias ring from the indirect piston. 13 Using a compressed air jet, or foot pump, applied to the

hydraulic pipe connection suitable precautions not 14 The seals may be fingers. 15 Finally remove the adjustment screw within

16 Thoroughly

clean

bore, eject the two pistons, taking

to allow them to fly out. removed from the cylinder

bleed screw.

It is important

using the

that the

the cylinder body is not disturbed.

the internal parts of the caliper using

methylated spirits.

17 Carefully inspect the fine finish of the bore and pistons and if

signs of scoring or corrosion are evident, a new caliper assembly must be obtained. Before commencing new seal set and also a new bias ring.

to reassemble, obtain a

Fig. 9.11. Disc brake caliper components (Sec. 13) Brake pads Yoke

Indirect piston Cylinder body

Yoke spring Dust cover retaining ring and DAAWwWY~»

7

8 9 10

cover — Bias ring

Hydraulic fluid inlet Piston seal Bleed screw

132 18 To

Chapter 9 Braking system reassemble

the

caliper,

first fit the new

bias ring into

the indirect piston in such a manner that the radius end enters the piston first. 19 Apply a little clean hydraulic fluid to the pistons and seals,

but not to the cylinder grooves or sliding edges of the yoke. 20 Very carefully fit the previous wetted seals into the cylinder grooves and then fit the pistons into the cylinder. The indirect piston with the bias ring must be fitted in the opposite end of the cylinder to the pads. 21 Refit the dust cover and retaining rings, making sure that the widest retaining ring secures the dust cover furthermost from the pads.

22 The yoke spring is next refitted to the yoke, and this must be Positioned as was noted during dismantling.

oy

23 Fit the cylinder to the yoke, engaging the tongue of the yoke into the slot of the bias ring fitted into the indirect piston. 24 With a small screwdriver, locate the legs of the yoke spring into the sliding grooves on the cylinder. The angled leg of the spring must engage in the groove on the cylinder opposite to the bleed screw. Refit the bleed screw.

25 The

pads

may

now

be

refitted,

this

being

the

13697

3

reverse

sequence to removal. 26 Refitting the caliper is the reverse sequence to removal. Make

sure that a lockwasher is fitted on each side of the bracket and tighten the locknut without twisting the hose. It will be necessary to bleed the hydraulic system, full details of which may be found in Section 3.

Fig. 9.12. Front brake disc and drive flange removal (Sec. 14) 7 2 3

Nut Collar Split pin

4 5

Drive flange Disc

16 Brake master cylinder (single) - removal and replacement.

14 Front brake disc - removal, renovation and replacement.

1

Chock the rear wheels apply the handbrake, jack-up the front

of the car and support on firmly based axle stands. Remove the road wheel. 2 Remove the front brake caliper as described in Section 13. 3 Remove the dust cap and extract the split pin from the driveshaft nut.

4 Undo collar.

and

remove

the driveshaft

nut and extract the split

5 Using a universal three-legged puller, with the feet located behind the wheel mounting flange (drive plate), and a suitable thrust pad, carefully draw the disc and drive plate assembly from the driveshaft. 6 Mark the relative positions of the disc and drive plate so that they may be refitted in their original positons, and separate the two parts. 7 Thoroughly clean the disc and inspect for signs of deep scoring or excessive corrosion. If this is evident, the disc may be reground, but no more than a maximum total of 0.060 inch

(1.524 mm) may be removed. new disc if at all possible.

1 Apply the handbrake and chock the front wheels. Drain the fluid from the master cylinder reservoir and master cylinder by

attaching a plastic bleed tube to one of the brake bleed screws, undo the screw one turn and then pump the fluid out into a clean glass container by means of the brake pedal. Hold the brake pedal against the floor at the end of each stroke and tighten the bleed screw. When the pedal has returned to its normal position, loosen the bleed screw and repeat the process until the master cylinder is empty. 2 Wipe the area around the

hydraulic pipe union and disconnect the pipe from the master cylinder. Plug the end of the pipe to stop dirt ingress.

3 Undo and remove the two nuts and spring washers securing the master cylinder to the servo unit. 4 Carefully lift away the master cylinder. 5 Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal. Always start the union nut on the end of the hydraulic pipe before finally

tightening the master cylinder securing nuts and spring washers. It will be necessary to bleed the hydraulic system as described in Section 3.

It is however, desirable to fit a 17 Brake

8 Refitting the disc is the reverse sequence to removal. Always lock with a new split pin. 9 Measure the runout at the outer periphery of the disc by

means of feeler gauges positioned between the inside of the caliper and the disc. If the runout of the friction faces exceed 0.007 in (0.17 mm), remove the disc and reposition it on the drive plate. Should the run-out be really bad, the disc is probably

distorted due to overheating and a new one must be refitted.

master

cylinder (single) - dismantling and reassembly.

If a replacement master cylinder is to be fitted, it will be necessary to lubricate the seals before fitting to the car as they have a protective coating when originally assembled. Remove the blanking plug from the hydraulic fluid into the master cylinder and operate the piston several times so the fluid will spread over all the internal working surfaces. lf the master cylinder is to be dismantled after removal proceed as follows:

1 Using a pair of pliers release the circlip from the inside of the bore. 2 Carefully withdraw the complete plunger assembly from the bore. The assembly is separated by lifting the thimble leaf over 15 Front brake disc dust shield - removal and replacement.

1 Refer to Section assembly. 2 Undo and remove dust shield to the hub. 3 Refitting the dust

14 and remove

the disc and drive flange

the bolt and spring washer securing the Lift away the dust shield. shield is the reverse sequence to removal.

the shouldered end of the plunger. The plunger seal may now be

eased off using the fingers only. 3 Depress the plunger return spring, allowing the valve stem to slide through the keyhole in the thimble thus releasing the tension in the spring. 4 Detach the valve

spacer,

taking

care of the spacer

washer which will be found located under the valve head.

spring

133

Hh 13569

Fig. 9.13. Single master cylinder components Piston assembly Piston Piston seal Valve stem Thimble AAWNHs

Curved washer Spacer Valve seal

70 11. 12

AND © Master cylinder bore

(Sec 14)

Outlet port Master cylinder body Valve seal correctly fitted on valve head

14

Curved washer fitted in spacer Spacer Thimble leaf depressed

Fig. 9.14. Brake master cylinder (tandem) components (Sec.19)

Filler cap

)

Gasket Baffle

) assembly )

Reservoir - dual

Circlip - internal Seal QDaAAWN™

7 8 9 710 11

Securing nut Tipping valve Face seal Cylinder body Valve seal

12 73

Valve stem Spring washer - curved

Seal Secondary plunger

14 15 716

Valve spacer Secondary spring Spring retainer

Primary plunger Gland seal

Intermediate spring (black)

134 5

Chapter 9 Braking system Examine

the bore

of the cylinder

carefully

for any signs of

scores or ridges. !f this is found to be smooth all over, new seals can be fitted. If, however, there is any doubt of the condition

of the bore, then a new master cylinder must be fitted.

6 If examination of the seals shows them to be apparently oversize or swollen, or very loose in the plunger, suspect oil contamination in the system. Ordinary lubricating ot! will swell the

rubber

seals,

and

if one

is found

to

be

swollen,

it

is

reasonable to assume that all seals in the braking system will need attention. 7 Thoroughly clean all parts in fresh hydraulic fluid or methylated spirits. Ensure the bypass ports are clean. 8 All components should be assembled wet after dipping in

6

Depress the secondary

through

the keyhole

spring, allowing the valve stem to slide

in the thimble, thus releasing the tension

in the spring. 7 Detach the valve spacer, taking care of the spring washer which will be found located under the valve head. 8 Examine the bore of the cylinder carefully for any signs of scores or ridges. If this is found to be smooth all over new seals can be fitted. If, however, there is any doubt of the condition of the bore, then a new cylinder must be fitted. 9 If examination of the seals shows them to be apparently Oversize, or swollen, or very loose on the plungers, suspect oil

contamination in the system, Oil will swell the rubber seals, and if One

is found

to be swollen,

it is reasonable

to assume

that all

clean brake fluid. Fit a new valve seal the correct way round so that the flat side is correctly seating on the valve head. Place the

seals in the braking system will need attention.

dished washer

methylated spirits, Ensure that the bypass ports are Clear.

with the dome against the underside of the valve

head. Hold it in position with the valve spacer, ensuring that the legs face towards the valve seal. 9 Replace the plunger return spring centrally on the spacer, insert the thimble into the spring, and depress until the valve stem engages in the keyhole in the thimble. 10 Ensure that the spring is central on the spacer before fitting a new plunger seal onto the plunger, with the flat face against the face of the plunger. 11 Insert the reduced end of the plunger into the thimble until the thimble engages under the shoulder of the plunger, and press

10 Thoroughly

clean

all

parts

in

fresh

hydraulic

fluid

or

11 All components should be assembled wet by dipping in clean brake fluid. Using fingers only, fit new seals to the primary and secondary plungers ensuring that they are the correct way round. Place the dished washer with the dome against the underside of the valve seat. Hold it in position with the valve pee! ensuring that the legs face towards the valve seal. 12 Replace the plunger return spring centrally on the spacer,

insert the thimble into the spring and depress until the valve stem engages in the keyhole of the thimble. 13 Insert the reduced end of the plunger into the thimble, until

home the thimble leaf. 12 Check that the master cylinder hose is clean and smear with clean brake fluid. With the plunger suitably wetted with brake fluid, carefully insert the assembly into the bore with the valve-end first. Ease the lips of the plunger seal carefully into the

the thimble engages under the shoulder of the plunger, and press home the thimble leaf. Replace the intermediate spring between

bore.

with brake fluid, carefully insert the assembly into the bore. Ease the lips of the plunger seals carefully into the bore. Push the assembly fully home.

13 Push the plunger down the bore and refit the circlip. 14 The master cylinder is now ready for refitting to the car.

18 Brake master cylinder (tandem)-removal and replacement 1 Drain the tandem master cylinder and reservoir in a similar manner to that described for the single master cylinder. Full information will be found in Section 16.1. 2 Using an open-ended spanner disconnect the secondary and Primary supply pipes from the master cylinder body. Plug the ends to stop dirt ingress. 3

Undo

and

remove

the two

nuts and spring washers securing

the master cylinder to the rear of the servo unit and lift away the master cylinder. 4 Refitting the tandem

the primary and secondary plungers. 14 Check that the master cylinder bore is clean and smear with clean brake fluid. With the complete assembly suitably wetted

15 Refit the tipping valve assembly, and seal, to the cylinder bore and tighten the securing nut to a torque wrench setting of 40Iib f ft (5.5 kg fm). Replace the hydraulic fluid reservoir and tighten the two retaining screws. 16 The master cylinder is now ready for refitting to the servo unit. 20 Vacuum servo unit - description

The vacuum servo unit is fitted into the brake hydraulic circuit in series with the master cylinder, to provide assistance to the driver when the brake pedal is depressed. This reduces the

effort required master

cylinder

is the reverse sequence

to removal. Always start the union nuts before finally tightening the master cylinder retaining nuts. It will be necessary to bleed the hydraulic system and full details will be found in Section 3.

19 Brake master cylinder (tandem) - dismantling and reassembly 1 Refer to the introduction to Section 16 with regard to replacement master cylinders. 2 Undo and remove the two screws holding the reservoir to the master cylinder body. Lift away the reservoir. Using a suitably

sized Allen key or wrench unscrew the tipping valve nut and lift away the seal. Using a rod of suitable diameter push the primary plunger down the bore; this operation enabling the tipping valve to be withdrawn. 3 Using a compressed air jet, very carefully applied to the rear outlet pipe connection, blow out all the master cylinder internal components. Alternatively shake out the parts. Take care that adequate precautions are taken to ensure all parts are caught as they emerge.

4 Separate the primary and secondary plungers from the intermediate spring. Use the fingers to remove the gland seal from the primary plunger. 5 The secondary plunger assembly should be separated by lifting the thimble leaf over the shouldered end of the plunger. Using the fingers, remove the seal from the secondary plunger.

by the driver

to operate the brakes under all

braking conditions. The unit operates using vacuum from the induction manifold and basically comprises a booster diaphragm, control rod, slave cylinder and a non-return valve. The servo unit and hydraulic master cylinder are connected together so that the servo unit piston rod acts as the master cylinder pushrod. The driver's braking effort is transmitted through another pushrod to the servo unit piston and its built- in control system. The servo unit piston does not fit tightly into the cylinder, but has a strong diaphragm to keep its edges in constant contact with the cylinder wall, so assuming an air tight seal between the two parts. The forward chamber is held under vacuum conditions created in the inlet manifold of the engine, and during periods when the brake pedal is not in use the controls Open a passage to the rear chamber so placing it under vacuum conditions as well. When the brake pedal is depressed,

the

vacuum

passage

to

the

rear

chamber

is cut-off

and

the

chamber opened to atmospheric pressure. The consequent rush of air at atmospheric pressure pushes the servo piston forward in the vacuum chamber and operates the main pushrod to the master cylinder. The controls are designed so that assistance is given under all conditions and, when the brakes are not required, vacuum in the rear chamber is established when the brake pedal is released. All air from the atmosphere entering the rear chamber is passed through a small air filter.

Chapter 9 Braking system

135

is dismantled there would probably be extreme difficulties in obtaining spare parts. The only two service operations that may be carried out are renewing the non-return valve (this Section)

and the air filter. (Section 23). 2 To renew the non-return valve first detach the vacuum hose from the valve union. 3 Note the angle of the valve union and then insert a wide bladed screwdriver between the valve and grommet. Pull on the valve whilst twisting the screwdriver to release it from the body. 4 Recover the grommet. 5 Refitting the grommet and valve is the reverse sequence to removal. Lubricate the nib of the valve with a little rubber grease.

re Se a Es 23 Vacuum servo unit filter - removal and replacement a 1 Carefully pull back the dust cover and then ease the filter retainer from the servo neck. 2 ‘Using a small screwdriver ease out the filter, cut it in half and lift away. 3 Cut a new filter diagonally to the centre hole, fit it over the pushrod and carefully ease it into the housing. 4 Refit the filter retainer and dust cover.

HI3698

Fig. 9.15. Servo unit attachments (Sec. 21) Fig. 9.16. Servo unit external components

Under normal operating conditions the vacuum servo unit is very reliable and does not require overhaul except at a very high mileage.

than

71 2 3

Rubber dust cover Retainer Filter

4 5 6

Grommet Non return valve Grommet

In this case it is necessary to obtain a service unit rather

attempt

to repair the original

21 Vacuum servo unit - removal and replacement. 1 Refer to Section 16 or 18 as applicable, master cylinder from the servo unit.

and

remove

the

2 Slacken the clip and disconnect the vacuum hose from the servo unit non-return valve. 3 Undo and remove the three screws securing the parcel shelf on the driver's side. Lift away the parcel shelf. 4 Remove the spring clip securing the servo unit Operating rod yoke, to pedal clevis. Lift away the plain washer and withdraw the clevis pin.

5

Undo and remove the four nuts and spring washers securing

the servo unit to the mounting servo unit.

bracket and body. Lift away the

6 Refitting the servo unit is the reverse sequence to removal. It will be necessary to bleed the hydraulic system as described in Section 3.

OOOO 22 Vacuum

servo

unit - overhaul

Fig. 9.17. Servo unit air filter renewal (Sec. 23)

eee

1

The servo unit should not be completely dismantled so if it

develops an internal fault it should be renewed. Even if the unit

7 2

Rubber dust cover Retainer

3 4

Airf filter Diagonal cut

136

Chapter 9 Braking system

24 Pressure differential warning actuator valve-removal overhaul and replacement 1

Wipe

the

top

of

the

brake

hydraulic

fluid

reservoir

and

unscrew the cap. Place a piece of polythene over the top and refit the cap. This is to prevent hydraulic fluid syphoning out. For safety reasons disconnect the battery. 2 Detach the cable connector at the top of the pressure differential warning actuator valve switch. 3 Wipe the area around the valve assembly and, using an open-ended spanner, unscrew the six union nuts. Detach the pipes from the valve. Plug the ends of the pipes to prevent dirt ingress. 4 Undo and remove the valve securing bolt and spring washer and lift away the washer. Take care not to spill any hydraulic fluid onto the paintwork as it acts as a solvent. 5 Wipe down the outside of the valve and then unscrew the switch from the top of the body. 6 Unscrew the end adaptor and tap the open end of the valve against a wooden block to extract the piston assembly.

7

If the sleeve is still in the bore shake it out and extract the ‘O’

ring. 8 Remove the second sleeve and ’‘O’ ring and carefully press the two shaped circlips from their grooves in the piston. 9 Thoroughly clean all parts - except the switch - in fresh brake fluid or methylated spirits and then examine the bore and sleeves for signs of scoring or corrosion. If evident a new valve assembly will be necessary. 10 Temporarily reconnect the electric switch to its wiring and actuate the plunger to test the action of the switch and warning light circuit. 11 All parts must be assembled wet by dipping in clean brake

fluid. Fit new circlips to the piston. 12 Fit the sleeves, check that they slide freely over the piston

and then fit the new ‘O’ rings. 13 Position the piston assembly in the entrance to the valve bore and push it fully into the bore in one even stroke.

14 Screw in the end adaptor and tighten finger tight to correctly locate the ‘O’ ring on the piston. 15 Remove the end adaptor and taking care use a small screwdriver to press the seal further down the bore until it abuts the sleeve.

16 Fit a new gasket and screw in the end adaptor. Tighten toa torque wrench setting of 30!b f ft (5.2 kg fm). 17 Working through the switch port, ease the piston towards the

adaptor until the two sleeves are central under the port. 18 Screw in the electrical switch and tighten to a torque wrench setting of 3lb f ft (0.5 kg fm). Should no resistance be felt remove the switch and re-check the position of the sleeves. 19 Refitting the valve is the reverse sequence to removal. It will be necessary to bleed the complete hydraulic system as described in Section 3. 20 The valve must now be reset. First apply the brake pedal hard and the warning light shou!d go out and stay out even when the Pedal is released. 21 Should the light not go out, the pressure in the system is unbalanced and the valve on the switch should be checked for

correct operation. (See also Section 3, paragraph 11). 22 If the brake failure warning light is off, check that the bulb is

in order. Press the test-push and the light should glow. 23 Apply

remain

pressure

to the

brake

pedal. The warning

off if the hydraulic system

and will come the system.

on to indicate hydraulic failure in one circuit of

90gg

Fig. 9.18. Exploded view of pressure differential warning

actuator valve (Sec. 24) End adaptor Copper washer

‘O’ ring Sleeve Circlip Piston Body TANDAAWYO Switch

4

3

s

light will

is functioning satisfactorily

mised

137

Chapter 9 Braking system

3

25 Brake pedal - removal and replacement

1 Undo and remove the three screws securing the parcel shelf on the driver's side. Lift away the parcel shelf, 2 Remove the spring clip securing the servo unit operating rod yoke to the pedal clevis. Lift away the plain washer and withdraw the clevis pin. 3 Disconnect the column switch terminals. Release the steering column securing screws and support the column on the seat.

4 Disconnect the clutch and brake pedal return springs from the bracket. Note which way round the springs are fitted. 5 Undo and remove the self-tapping screw securing each spring clip to the pedal bracket.

6

Remove

and

plain washer

the spring clip on the other end of the pedal pivot

pin. 7 Withdraw the pedal pivot pin as far as possible and allow the clutch pedal to hang on its pushrod. 8 The brake pedal, assembly may now be lifted away. 9 Refitting the pedal, to pedal bracket is the reverse sequence

to

removal.

Lubricate

and the return Operation.

the

springs

pivot

with

a

pin with little

a little engine oil

grease

to

ensure

quiet

The steel pipes must be examined carefully and methodically.

They must be cleaned off and examined for any signs of dents, or other damage and corrosion. Corrosion should be scraped off and, if the depth of pitting in the pipes is significant, they will need renewing. This neath the car body

weather

is particularly likely in those areas underwhere the pipes are exposed to road and

conditions.

4 If any section of pipe is to be taken off, first wipe and then remove the fluid reservoir cap and place a piece of polythene over the reservoir neck, Refit the cap. This will stop syphoning

during subsequent operations. 5 Rigid pipe removal is usually unions

at each

end are undone,

quite

straightforward.

the pipe and

union

The

pulled out,

and the centre sections of the nipe removed from the body clips. Where the pipes are exposed to full force of road and weather they can sometimes be very tight. As one can only use an

open-ended spanner and the unions are not large, burring of the flats is not uncommon when attempting to undo them. For this

reason a self-locking grip wrench (mole) is often the only way to remove a stubborn union. 6 To remove a flexible hose, wipe the unions and bracket free

from dust and undo the union nut from the metal pipe end. 7 Detach the hose from the bracket, be it either a clip or locknut.

26 Hydraulic pipes and hoses 1 Carefully examine all brake pipes, pipe connections and unions periodically. 2 First examine for signs of leakage where the pipe unions occur. Then examine the flexible hoses for signs of chafing and fraying and, of course, leakage. This is only a preliminary part of the flexible hose inspection, as exterior condition does not necessarily indicate the interior condition, which will be considered later.

YG SS

o/) Fig. 9.19. Brake pedal assembly (Sec. 25)

8

The

flexible

hose

may

now

be

unscrewed

from

its

attachment. 9 With the flexible hose removed, examine the internal bore. If it is blown through first, it should be possible to see through it. Any specks of rubber which come out, or signs of restriction in

the bore, means

that the rubber

lining is breaking

up and the

Pipe must be renewed. 10 Rigid pipes which need renewing can usually be purchased at any garage where they have the pipe, unions and special tools to make them up. All they need to know is the total length of the

Fig. 9.20. Brake pedal support bracket and attachments (Sec. 25)

Chapter 9 Braking system

138

a

pipe, the type of flare at each end with the union, and the length and thread of the union. 11 Replacement of the pipe is a straightforward reversal of the removal procedure. If the rigid pipes have been made up it ts best

Also if there are any acute bends, ask your supplier to put these in for you on a special tube bender. Otherwise you may kink the pipe and thereby decrease the bore area and fluid flow. 12 With the pipes replaced, remove the polythene from the

to get all the sets (bends) in them before trying to install them.

reservoir cap and bleed the system as described in Section 3.

27 Braking system - fault diagnosis Symptom

Pedal travels brakes operate

almost

to

floor

before

Reason/s

Remedy

Brake fluid level too low

Top up master cylinder reservoir. Check for leaks. Dismantle wheel cy!inder or caliper, clean fit new rubbers and bleed brakes.

Wheel cylinder or caliper leaking

Master

cylinder

leaking (bubbles

in master

cylinder fluid) Brake flexible hose leaking Brake line fractured Brake system unions loose

Linings over 75% worn Drum brakes badly out of adjustment

Brake pedal operation feels springy

New linings not yet bedded-in Brake drums or discs badly worn and weak or cracked Master cylinder securing nuts loose

Dismantle master cylinder, clean, and fit new rubbers. Bleed brakes. Examine and fit new hose if old hose leaking Bleed brakes.

Replace with new brake pipe. Bleed brakes. Check all unions in brake system and tighten as necessary. Bleed brakes. Fit replacement shoes and brake linings. Jack up the car and adjust rear brakes. Use brakes gently until springy pedal feeling leaves. Fit new brake drums or discs. Tighten

master

cylinder

securing

nuts.

En-

sure spring washers are fitted. Brake pedal operation feels spongy

Brake operation one side

uneven

and

Brakes bind, drag or lock-on

pulling to

Wheel cylinder or caliper leaking

Dismantle wheel cylinder or caliper, clean, fit new rubbers, and bleed brakes.

Master cylinder leaking (bubbles in master

Dismantle master cylinder, clean, and fit new

cylinder reservoir) Brake pipe line or flexible hose leaking Unions in brake system loose

rubbers and bleed brakes. Replace cylinder if internal walls scored. Fit new pipe line or hose. Examine for leaks, tighten as necessary.

Linings and brake drums or discs contaminated with oil, grease, or hydraulic fluid

Ascertain and rectify source brake drums, fit new linings.

Tyre pressures unequal Brake backplate, caliper or disc loose

Check and inflate as necessary. Tighten backplate, caliper or disc securing nuts and bolts.

Brake shoes or pads fitted incorrectly

Remove round.

Different type of linings fitted at each wheel Anchorages for front or rear suspension loose Brake drums or discs badly worn, cracked or distorted

Fit the linings specified all round. Tighten front and rear suspension points including spring locations. Fit new brake drums or discs.

Brake shoes adjusted too tightly

Slacken off rear brake shoe adjusters two clicks. Slacken off handbrake cable adjustment. Clean and blow through hole.

Handbrake cable over-tightened Reservoir vent hole in cap blocked with dirt Master cylinder by-pass port restricted brakes seize in ‘on’ position Drum brake shoe pull-off springs broken, stretched or loose Drum brake shoe pull-off springs fitted wrong way round, omitted, or wrong type used Handbrake system rusted or seized in the ‘ON’ position

of leak, clean

and fit shoes or pads correct way

pick-up

Dismantle, clean, and overhaul master cylinder. Bleed brakes. Examine springs and replace if worn or loose. Examine, and rectify as appropriate.

Apply penetrating lubricate,

oil to

free. Clean

and

—

Chapter 10

Electrical system

For modifications, and information applicable to later models, see Supplement at end of manual Contents

Alternator - general description Alternator - routine maintenance Battery - charging Battery- electrolyte feaienichment Battery - maintenance and inspection Battery - removal and replacement

Electrical system- fault diagnosis Flasher unit and circuit- fault tracing and roctication Front side and flasher light bulb - removal and replacement Fuses General Resorption Hazard warning flasher unit - fonoval Gad replacennant Headlight beam - adjustment ; Headlight unit - removal and Fetigcemnant

Horn- fault tracing and rectification ... Instrument testing Interior light and luggage comucnument light ‘bulb. ONE and replacement as Printed circuit - removal and replacement Quad pack gauges - removal and replacement : Rear number plate light bulb - removal and replacement Rear stop, tail and flasher light bulb - removal and replacement Reverse light Speedometer Speedometer Starter motor

bulb - fericua! and fenlacenionta cable - removal and replacement head - removal and replacement - general description Starter motor (M35J - inertia)- dismantling and PSS Ait Starter motor (M35J - inertia)- removal and replacement ...

Starter motor (M35J Bsencece - dismantling and reassembly

Starter motor (M35J pre-sprare ment ,

removal and replace-

Starter motor (M35J pre-menceaee) testing On engine Starter motor (2M100 pEegres - dismantling and reassembly

Starter motor (2M100 pre,onto replacement

-

- aoa an -

Ses

Starter motor solenoid - removal and replacement

Switches - general - removal and replacement Tachometer - removal and replacement Twin pack gauges - removal and replacement Voltage stabilizer - removal and replacement Warning and illumination bulb - removal and feplacanneaae ae Windscreen washer jet and pump - removal and replacement Windscreen wiper arms - removal and replacement ... Windscreen wiper blades - changing wiping arc Windscreen wiper mechanism - fault diagnosis and rectification Windscreen wiper motor fond eave - peeval ond replacement Windscreen wiper motor Pe - ecacating, prepecuen one reassembly Windscreen wiper pore sdeve ana Miheetborese rerioval and replacement ae Windscreen wiper/washer Sich - removal and replacement

Starter motor (M35J - inertia) - testing on engine

Specifications

System:

12 volt negative earth

Battery:

Type Capacity at 20 he pate:

Charge rate Maximum charge Initial charge Electrolyte to fill battery

Lucas A9 or A11 40 amp hr or 50 amp hr AQ 3.5 amps 3.6 amps 2.5 amps 0.72 pint

A11 5 amps 4.5 amps 3 amps 0.91 pint

Alternator: Type

Lucas 16 ACR

Output at 14V and 6000 rpm

Rotor winding resistance at 20° C (68° FA Maximum

permissible rotor speed

Brush length new Brush spring tension

=

Starter motor (2M100 preJSgieraie testing on engine Starter solenoid relay - removal and replacement

or 17 ACR

16 ACR

17 ACR

34 amps 3.3 ohm + 5% 15000 rpm

36 amps 3.2 ohm + 5% 15000 rpm

0.5 in. (12.6 mm)

0.5 in. (12.6 mm)

9-13 oz f

9-13 0zf

(255 - 368 gm f)

(255 - 368 gm f)

25 28

140

Chapter 10 Electrical system

Starter motor: Lucas M35J inertia Lucas M35J pre-engaged Lucas 2M100 pre-engaged

Types

Lucas M35J: Brush spring tension

Minimum brush length ... Minimum commutator thickness Lock torque ast Torque at 1000 rpm Light running current

28 oz (0.8 kg) 3/8 in. (9.5 mm) 0.08 in. (2.05 mm) 7 Ib ft (0.97 kgm) with 350 - 375 amps 4.4 Ib ft (0.61 kgm) with 260 to 275 amps 65 amps at 8000 to 10000 rpm

Lucas M35J (pre-engaged) : Brush spring tension Minimum brush length ... a Minimum commutator thickness Lock torque

.

Torque at 1000 rpm Light running current Maximum armature endfloat Solenoid:

Closing (series) winding resistance Hold-on (shunt) winding resistance Lucas 2M100 (pre-engaged) : Brush spring tension Minimum brush length ... Minimum commutator thickness Lock torque “ Torque at 1000 rpm Light running current Maximum armature endfloat

28 oz (0.8 kg) 3/8 in. (9.5 mm) 0.08 in. (2.05 mm) 7 Ib ft (0.97 kgm) with 350 to 375 amps 4.4 |b ft (0.61 kgm) with 260 to 275 amps 65 amp at 8000 to 10000 rpm

0.010 in. (0.25 mm) 0.21 to 0.25 ohms 0.9 to 1.1 ohms

36 oz (1.02 kg) 0.375 in. (9.5 mm)

0.140 in. (3.5 mm) 14.4 Ib ft (2.02 kgm) with 463 amps 7.3 Ib ft (1.02 kgm) with 300 amps 40 amp at 6000 rpm (approx) 0.010 in. (0.25 mm)

Solenoid:

Closing (series) winding resistance Hold on (shunt) winding resistance

0.25 to 0.27 ohm 0.76 to 0.80 ohm

Wiper motor:

Type Armature endflone Running current light Resistance: Armature winding

Lucas 14W two speed, self switching 0.004 to 0.008 in. (0.1 to 0.2 mm) 1.5 amps at 13.5 volts

Brush length (minimum)

0.27 to 0.35 ohm at 16° 0.1875 in (4.8 mm)

© (60° F)

Brush spring tension Arm pressure on spring

5 to 7 oz f (150 to 210 gm f) 11 to 13 oz f (310 to 370 gm f)

Horns: Type Maximum

z current canstaip tian:

6H 9H

3 amps 4 amps

Bulbs: Headlight (UK and rh steering export) sealed beam Headlight (Ih steering except France) sealed beam Headlight (France only) renewable bulb ... Sidelight

Flasher (front and bear) Stop, tail light Number plate light Interior light Panel and warning lights Automatic transmission selector en fight eee fitted)

Brake warning light (tandem master cylinder) Hazard warning light Heated rear screen warning light 1

General description

The electrical

Lucas 6H or 9H

system

is of the 12 volt type and the major

components comprise a 12 volt battery of which the negative terminal is earthed, a Lucas alternator which is fitted to the

right-hand side of the engine and is driven from the pulley on the front of the crankshaft, and a starter motor which is mounted

on the front offside of the engine compartment.

Watts 75/60 60/50 45/40 5 21 5/21 5 6 PLP 3 1.5 722 2

The battery supplies a steady amount of current for the ignition, lighting and other electrical circuits, and provides a reserve of electricity when the current consumed by the electrical equipment exceeds that being produced by the alternator. The battery is charged by a Lucas 16 or 17 ACR alternator: further information will be found in Section 6. When fitting electrical accessories to cars with a negative earth system it is important, if they contain silican diodes or

141

Chapter 10 Electrical system transistors, that they are connected correctly, otherwsise serious

the

demage may result to the component concerned. Items such as radios, tape pleyers, electric tachometer, autometic dipping, parking lamp and anti-cezzle mirrors should be checked for correct polarity.

corrosion

It is important

that the bettery positive and certh leads are

alweys disconnected if the bettery is to be boost charged or if any body repairs are to be carried oui, using electric arc welding

equipment. Serious damage

can be ceused to the more delicete

instruments, especially those contzining semiconductors.

2

Battery - removal and replecement

1 The battery is in 4 special carrier fitted on the right-hand wiring valance of the engine compariment. It should be removed once every three months for cleaning and testing. Disconnect the

negative (—) and then the positive {+) leads from the battery terminals by slackening the clamp retaining nuts and bolts or by unscrewing the retaining screws if termine! caps are fitted instead

of clamps. 2 Unscrew the clemp ber retaining nuts, and lower the cemp ber to the side of the bettery. Carefully lift the bettery from ls carrier. Hold the battery vertical to ensure that none of the electrolyte is spilled.

3

Replacement is a direct reversel of this procedure.

Note:

Replace

the

positive

lead

before

the negstive

lead and

smear the terminals with petroleum jelly (veseline) to prevent corrosion.Never use an ordimery greese 2s applied to othe parts of the cer.

cells shouldbe kept dean and

ed hes cover inch (6.35 mm) of electrolyte. If the level by 0.25 fallen, top-up the bettery using distilled weter only. Do noi over-

helps to

prevent

Goes not become

partally

antiust, antiocid paint

6 At the seme time inspect the betie'y cose for cocks Ha crack is found, clean and plug fi with one of the propeiary compounds marketed by such fms 2s Holts for ths purpose i leakage through 2 crack hes been excesswe then i wall be necessary to refill the appropricte cell wth fresh elecaoly® 2s ently caused mwat described later. Cracks are frequen 2 top of the battery case by adding distilled weiter afte mstcad weie mo Chance @ oun during the Winter months. Thes gives the to mix with the electrolyte and so the forme: freezes and spi the bettery cese7 i toppingup become: excessme and the ces inspected for cracks thet could cause leekage, but

hes

been

found, the betery s being ove chagd control will hewe to be checked. 8 With the batiery on the bench at the Gree monthly intevel 2 wih =< hydome= check, measure the specie gevity determine the sizite of Gierce and condition of the decmroly=There should be wery little variation between the diffeent cols, and if a vartstion in excess of 0.025 is present, & wall be Que enthea) Loss of gdectoly@ from the betiey ai some Gime caused Dy spillage or 2 beck, resulting in 2 Grop im the speci gravity of tte electrolyte when the clectrolyt wes repiscad with Ssolles wet instesd of fresh elecroly=b)

s lcell to ensure thei the sepersiorae of each leve

dry. This

Gscharged by leekage through Gampness and Girt 5 Inspect the bettery securing mts, bettery Gamp bar, tray and baitery leads for corrosion (white fluffy deposits on the mew which are brittle to touch). li any comrosion & found, Clesn of? the deposit with ammonice and paint over the clon mete! werth an

An internal short crew

caused

by bucking

im the neor future.

9

The

of the pees or

pointing to the fikelshood of ton! bettery folure

sSimaier maledy

electrolyte

and

ensures thet the betiery

speciiic

of the

gevity

oats

Table “A*. The specific gewity of = Giffeent tempectures of the Secvoly= B.

jorPigeon ame

& gwen

m

Table

Table A Specific gravity - bettery fully charged

1.268 and tilting to one side. The electrolyte level in each cell musi be kept such that the separator pletes are jusi covered. To avoid

flooding, the battery must not be toppedup within half an hour

of it having been charged from any source other than from the Gener systemating fitted to the car.

b) To top-up the evels in each cell, reise the vent cover and pour distilled water into the trough until all the rectangular filing

matically be distributed to sch cell.

readings.

If the electrolyte level in any of the cells is below the bottom of the filling tube top-up 2s follows:

a) Lift off the vent chamber cover. level, pour distilled wete into the trough b) With the bettery until all the filling tubes and trough are full. c) Immediately replace the cover and allow the meter in the ee

ee

at 100°F aw SO°F at SOF = 70°F

12772 12776 1230 172A 1238 1292 126)

0 06ot a at oat

«GF SOF... 40°F BOE

1032 1102 1106 1110 1114. 1118 1122 112%

at a a a at a a2

SPF 30°F 70°F GPF SPF 40°F 3OF

o

33°C secroly= tempecie

o or or o oo oo or

3FC 27°C 21°C 16°C 10°C 24°C 15°C

= > :

ra a = =

=

> =

or 39°C secrolyt or 3F°C Fs

ao 27°C o 21°C o 16°C oo iC o@ 4°C 30:1 5°C

5 > = = = "

t2mpesture =

a 7 r = =

4 Battery - electrolyte replenishment

a ee eS 1

lf the bottery is im 2 fully charged Siete and ome of the cols

meintsins 2 specific gravity reading which is 0.025 of more lower wth = then the others and 2 check of each call Res been made crcults speciel codmium rod type woltmete 10 check for short

then it is likely thet electrolyte hes been los trom the cell wath

cei

ie)

top of ally the top of the bettery, and especithe

the low reading st some time

142 2

Chapter 10 Electrical system

Top

up the cell with

2.5 parts of water.

a solution

of 1 part sulphuric acid to

If the cell is already

fully topped up draw

some electrolyte out with a hydrometer.

3 When mixing the sulphuric acid and water never add water to sulphuric acid - always pour the acid slowly onto the water ina glass container. lf water is added to sulphuric acid it will explode. 4 Continue to top up the cell with the freshly made electrolyte and then readings.

5

recharge

the

battery

and

check

the

hydrometer

Battery charging

1 When heavy demand is placed upon the battery, such as when starting from cold and much electrical equipment is continually in use, it is a good idea occasionally to have the battery fully charged from an external source at the rate of 3.5 to 4 amps. 2 Continue to charge the battery at this rate until no further rise in specific gravity is noted over a four hour period. 3 Alternatively, a trickle charger, amps can be safely used overnight.

charging

at the

rate of 1.5

4 Except for topping up, the vent on ‘Pacemaker’ type batteries must be kept closed. The electrolyte will flood over if the cover is raised while the battery is being trickle or fast charged. 5 Fast charging must only be undertaken in extreme circumstances and must not exceed 40 amps for ‘AQ’ batteries, or 50 amps for ‘A11’ batteries, for a maximum period of one hour. 6 When checking or testing a ‘Pacemaker’ type battery, a single cell heavy duty discharge tester cannot be used. 7 Whilst charging a battery, the temperature of the electrolyte

The slip rings are carried on a small diameter moulded drum attached to the rotor shaft outboard of the rotor shaft axle, while the outer ring has a mean diameter of 0.75 inch (19.05 mm). By keeping the mean diameter of the slip rings to a minimum, relative speeds between bushes and rings, and hence wear, are also minimal. The slip rings are connected to the rotor field winding by wires carried in grooves in the rotor shaft. The regulator is set during manufacture and requires no further attention. Briefly the ‘thick film’ regulator comprises resistors and conductors screen printed onto a 1 inch (25.4 mm) square aluminium substrate. Mounted on the substrate are Lucas semi-conductors consisting of three transistors, a voltage reference diode and a field rectification diode, and two capacitors. The internal connections between these components

and the substrate

are made by Lucas patented connectors. The

whole assembly is 0.0625 inch (1.59 mm) thick and is housed in a recess in an aluminium heat sink, which is attached to the slip ring end bracket. Complete hermatic sealing is achieved by a silicon rubber encapsulent to provide environmental protection. Electrical connections to external circuits are brought out to Lucar connector blades, these being grouped to accept a moulded connector socket which ensures correct connections.

7

Alternator

- routine maintenance

1 The equipment has been designed for the minimum amount of maintenance in service, the only items subject to wear being the bushes and bearings.

2

Bushes should be-examined after 60,000 miles, (100,000 km)

should never exceed 100°F (38°C)

and renewed if necessary. This is a job best left to the local BLMC garage or auto-electrical specialist.

6

3 The bearings are pre-packed with grease for life, and should not require any further attention. 4 For full information on fan belt adjustment and alternator

Alternator - general description

removal see Chapter 2. The Lucas 16 or 17 ACR series alternator is fitted to models covered by this manual. The main advantage of the alternator over a dynamo lies in its ability to provide a high rate of charge at low engine revolutions. Driving slowly in heavy traffic witha dynamo invariably means no charge is reaching the battery. In similar conditions even with the wipers, heater, lights and perhaps radio switched on, the alternator will ensure a charge reaches the battery. An important feature of the alternator is a built in output control regulator, based on ‘thick film’ hybrid integrated microcircuit technique, which results in this alternator being a self contained generating and control unit.

The system provides for direct connection

of a charge light,

8

Starter motor - general description

One of two types of starter motor is fitted to Allegro models covered by this manual depending on the date of manufacture, car specification and the destined market. The starter motors are not interchangeable although they engage with a common flywheel starter ring gear. With the inertia type starter motor, the relay is fitted to the rear of the front grille, whereas the pre-engaged type has the solenoid switch on the top of the motor. The

principle

of operation

of the inertia type starter motor

and eliminates the need for a field switching relay and warning light control unit, necessary with former systems.

is as follows: When the ignition switch is turned, current flows from the battery to the starter motor solenoid switch which

The alternator is of the rotating field, ventilated, design and comprises, principally, a laminated stator on which is wound a star connected 3 phase output winding, a twelve pole rotor carrying the field windings - each end of the rotor shafts runs in ball race bearings which are lubricated for life, natural finish diecast end brackets, incorporating the mounting lugs, a rectifier pack for converting the AC output of the machine to DC for battery charging, and an output control regulator. The rotor is belt driven from the engine through a pulley keyed to the rotor shaft. A pressed steel fan adjacent to the pulley draws cooling air through the machine, This fan forms an integral part of the alternator specification. It has been designed to provide adequate air flow with a minimum of noise, and to withstand the high stresses associated with maximum speed. Rotation is clockwise viewed on the drive end. Maximum rectification of alternator output is achieved by six silicon diodes housed in a rectifer pack and connected as a 3 phase fullwave bridge. The rectifer pack is attached to the outer face of

causes it to become energized. Its internal plunger moves inwards and closes an internal switch so allowing full starting current to flow from the battery to the starter motor. This causes a powerful magnetic field to be induced into the field coils which causes the armature to rotate. Mounted on helical splines is the drive pinion which, because of the sudden rotation of the armature, is thrown forwards along the armature shaft and so into engagement with the flywheel ring gear. The engine crankshaft will then be rotated until the engine starts to operate on its own and, at this point, the drive Pinion is thrown out of mesh with the flywheel ring gear. The pre-engaged starter motor operates by a slightly different method using end face commutator brushes instead of brushes located on the side of the commutator. The method of engagement on the pre-engaged starter differs considerably in that the drive pinion is brought into mesh with the starter ring gear before the main starter current is applied. When the ignition is switched on, current flows from the

the slip ring end bracket and contains also three ‘field’ diodes, At

battery to the solenoid which is mounted on the top of the starter motor body. The plunger in the solenoid moves inwards sO causing a centrally pivoted engagement lever to move in such

normal operating speeds, rectifed current from the stator output

windings flows through

these diodes to provide self excitation

of the rotor field, via brushes bearing on face type slip rings.

a manner

that the forked

end pushes the drive pinion into mesh

143

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-AvA%)

144

Chapter 10 Electrical system

with the starter ring gear. When the solenoid plunger reaches the end of its travel, it closes an internal contact and full starting current flows to the starter field coils. The armature is then able to rotate the crankshaft so starting the engine. A special one way clutch is fitted to the starter drive pinion so that when the engine just fires and startes to operate on its own, it does not drive the starter motor.

in the centre

working

of the

relay

the starter motor

switch

under

the

bonnet.

If it is

will be heard to ‘click’ as it triesto

rotate. Alternatively check it with a voltmeter. 4 lf the battery is fully charged, the wiring in order, and the switch working but the starter motor fails to operate then it will have to be removed from the car for examination. Before this is done, however, ensure that the starter pinion has not jammed in

mesh with the flywheel. Check by turning the square end of the armature shaft with a spanner. This will free the pinion if it is stuck in engagement with the flywheel teeth.

9

Starter motor (M35J inertia) - testing on engine

1. If the starter motor fails to operate, then check the condition of the battery by turning on the headlamps. If they glow brightly for several seconds and then gradually dim, the battery is in an uncharged condition. 2 If the headlamps glow brightly and it is obvious that the battery is in good condition then check the tightness of the battery wiring connections (and in particular the earth lead from the battery terminal to its connection on the bodyframe). Check the tightness of the connections at the relay switch and at the

starter motor. Check the wiring with a voltmeter for breaks or shorts. 3 If the wiring is in order then check that the starter motor switch is operating. To do this, press the rubber covered button

10 Starter motor

(M35J inertia) - removal and replacement

1 Disconnect the positive and then the negative terminals from the battery. Also disconnect the starter motor cable from the terminal on the starter motor end cover. 2 Undo and remove the bolts which secure the starter motor to the clutch and flywheel housing. Lift the starter motor away by manipulating the drive gear out from the ring gear area and then from the engine compartment. 3 Refitting is the reverse procedure to removal. Make sure that the starter motor cable, when secured in position by its terminal, does not touch any part of the body or power unit which could damage the insulation.

413390

Fig. 10.2. Starter motor components (M35J) (Sec. 21) 1 2

Body Field coils

3 4

Brushes Commutator end bracket

5 6

Commutator Drive

7

Drive bracket

Chapter 10 Electrical system

145

ee TUTE EEE ——

11 Starter motor (M35J inertia) - dismantling and reassembly

the retainer clear of the circlip which

can then be removed.

Lift

away the retainer and main spring.

1

With

the starter motor

on the bench, first mark the relative

Positions of the starter motor body to the two end brackets. 2 Undo and remove the two screws and spring washers securing the drive end bracket to the body. The drive end bracket, complete with armature and drive, may from the starter motor body.

now

be drawn forwards

3 Lift away the thrust washer from the commutator end of the armature shaft. 4 Undo and remove the two screws securing the commutator end bracket to the starter motor body. The commutator end bracket may now be drawn back about an inch allowing sufficient access so as to disengage the field bushes from the bracket. Once these are free, the end bracket may now be completely removed. 5 With the motor stripped the brushes and brush gear may be inspected. To check the brush spring tension, fit a new brush into each holder in turn, and using an accurate spring balance, push the brush on the balance tray until the brush protrudes

approximately

0.0625

in (1.588 mm) from the holder. Make a

note of the reading which should be approximately 28 ounces. If the spring pressures vary considerably the commutator end

bracket must be renewed as a complete assembly. 6 Inspect the brushes for wear and fit a new brush which is nearing the minimum length of 0.375 in (9.525 mm). To renew the end bracket brushes, cut the brush cables from the terminal posts and, with a small file or hacksaw, slot the head of the terminal posts to a sufficient depth to accommodate the new leads. Solder the new brush leads to the posts. 7 To renew the field winding brushes, cut the brush leads

approximately

0.25

in

(6.35

mm)

from

the

field

0.08

in

(2.032

mm).

For

minor

reconditioning,

the

commutator may be polished with glass paper. Do not undercut the mica insulators between the commutator segments.

9

Withthe

Open

circuit.

starter Connect

motor

dismantled,

test the field coils for

a 12 volt battery with a 12 volt bulb in

one of the leads between each of the field brushes and a clean part of the body. The lamp will light if continuity 's satisfactory between the brushes, windings and body connection. 10 Replacement of the field coils calls for the use of a wheel Operated screwdriver, a soldering iron, caulking and riveting operations and is beyond the scope of the majority of owners. The starter motor body should be taken to an automobile

electrical

engineering

works

for

new

field coils to be fitted.

Alternatively purchase an exchange Lucas starter motor. 11 Check the condition of the bushes and they should be renewed when they are sufficiently worn to allow visible side movement of the armature shaft. 12 To renew the commutator end bracket bush, drill out the rivets securing the brush box moulding and remove the

moulding, bearing seal retaining plate and felt washer seal. 13 Screw ina % inch tap and withdraw the bush with the tap. 14 As the bush is of the phosphor bronze type it is essential that it is allowed to stand in engine oil for a least 24 hours before

fitment. Alternatively soak in oil at 100°C (212°F) for 2 hours. 15 Using

a suitable

diameter

drift, drive the new

parts with

a rotary

action of the

to dismantling.

Use a press to compress

the spring and retainer

sufficiently to allow a new circlip to be fitted to its groove on the shaft. Remove the drive from the press. 22 Reassembly of the starter motor is the reverse sequence to dismantling.

12 Starter

motor

(M35J pre-engaged)

- testing on engine

The testing procedure is basically similar to the M35J inertia starter described in Section 9. However, note the following instructions before removing the starter. Ensure that the pinion gear has not jammed in mesh with the flywheel due either to a broken solenoid spring or dirty pinion gear splines. To release the pinion, engage a low gear and,

with the ignition switched off, rock the car backwards and forwards which should release the pinion from mesh with the ring gear. If the pinion still remains jammed the starter motor must be removed for further examination. When automatic transmission is fitted it will not be possible to rock the car to free the pinion gear.

winding

junction and carefully solder the new brush leads to the remaining stumps making sure that the insulation sleeves provide adequate cover. 8 If the commutator surface is dirty or blackened, clean it with a petrol dampened rag. Carefully examine the commutator for signs of excessive wear, burning or pitting. If evident it may be reconditioned by having it skimmed at the local engineering works or BLMC garage who possesses a centre lathe. The thickness of the commutator copper coating must not be less

than

19 Slide off the remaining

armature shaft. 20 It is most important that the drive gear is completely free from oil, grease and dirt. With the drive gear removed, clean all parts thoroughly in paraffin. Under no circumstances oil the drive components. Lubrication of the drive components could easily cause the pinion to stick. 21 Reassembly of the starter motor drive is the reverse sequence

bush

into

position. Do not ream the bush as its self lubricating properties will be impaired. 16 To remove the drive end bracket bush it will be necessary to

13 Starter motor (M35J pre-engaged) - removal and replacement 1 Disconnect the battery.

2

the positive and then the negative terminals from

Make a note of the electrical connections at the rear of the

solenoid and disconnect the two Lucar terminals There is no need to undo of the solenoid. 3 Undo and remove the

the top heavy duty cable. Also release situated below the heavy duty cable. the lower heavy duty cable at the rear two bolts which hold the starter motor

in place and lift away upwards. 4 Replacement is a straightforward

reversal of the removal sequence. Check that the electrical cable connections are clean and firmly attached to their respective terminals.

14 Starter assembly

motor

1

the

Detach

terminal

(M35J

heavy

pre-engaged)

duty

cable,

- dismantling

linking

the solenoid

and

re-

‘STA’

to the starter motor terminal, by undoing and removing

the securing nuts and washers.

2 Undo and remove the two nuts and spring washers securing the solenoid to the drive end bracket. 3 Carefully withdraw the solenoid coil unit from the drive end bracket. 4 Lift off the solenoid plunger and return spring from the engagement lever.

5 6

Remove the rubber sealing block from the drive end bracket. Remove the retaining ring (spire nut) from the engagement

lever pivot pin and withdraw the pin.

7 Unscrew and remove the two drive end bracket securing nuts and spring washers and withdraw the bracket. 8 Lift away the engagement lever from the drive operating plate.

17 Using a suitable diameter drift remove the old bush and fit a

9 Extract the split pin from the end of the armature and remove the shim washers and thrust plate from the commutator end of the armature shaft.

new one as described in paragraphs 14 and 15. 18 To dismantle the starter motor drive, first use a press to push

10 Remove washer.

remove the drive gear as described in paragraphs 18 and 19.

the

armature,

together

with

its

internal

thrust

146

Chapter 10 Electrical system

11 Withdraw the thrust washer from the armature. 12 Undo and remove the two screws securing the commutator end bracket to the starter motor body. 13 Carefully detach the end bracket from the yoke, at the same time disengaging the field brushes from the brush gear. Lift away the end bracket. 14 Move the thrust collar clear of the jump ring, and then remove the jump ring. Withdraw the drive assembly from the armature shaft. 15 Inspection and renovation is basically the same as for the Lucas M35J inertia type starter motor and full information will be found in Section 11. The following additions necessitated by the fitting of the solenoid coil should be noted: 16 If a bush is worn, so allowing excessive side movement of the armature shaft, the bush must be renewed. Drift out the old bush with a piece of suitable diameter rod, preferably with a shoulder on it to stop the bush collapsing. 17 Soak a new bush in engine oil for 24 hours or if time does

fixed contacts. The fixed contacts are part of the moulded cover.

not permit, heat in an oil bath at 100°C (212°F) for two hours

33 Make sure that the internal thrust washer commutator end of the armature shaft before fitted.

Prior to fitting.

18 As new

bushes

must

not

be reamed after fitting it must

be

Pressed into position using a small mandrel of the same diameter as the bush and with a shoulder on it. Place the bush on the mandrel and press into position using a bench vice. 19 Use a test light and battery to test the continuity of the coil windings between terminal ‘STA and a good earth point on the solenoid body. If the light fails to come on, the solenoid should

be renewed. 20 To test the solenoid contacts for correct opening and closing, connect

a 12 volt battery and a 60 watt

main unmarked

test light between

the

Lucar terminal and the ‘STA’ terminal. The light

should not come on. 21 Energise the solenoid

with

a

separate

12

volt

24 To fit a new set of contacts, first undo and remove moulded cover securing screws. 25 Unsolder the coil connections from the cover terminals.

the

26 ‘Lift away the cover and moving contact assembly. 27 Fit a new cover and moving contact assembly, soldering the connections to the cover terminals. 28 Refit the moulded cover securing screws. 29 Whilst the motor is apart, check the operation of the drive clutch. It must provide instantaneous take up of the drive in one direction and rotate easily and smoothly in the opposite direction.

30 Make sure that the drive moves smoothly shaft splines without binding or sticking.

on

the armature

31 Reassembly of the starter motor is the reverse sequence to dismantling. The following additional points should be noted: 32 When assembling the drive, always use a new retaining ring

(spire nut) to secure the engagement lever pivot pin. is fitted to the the armature is

34 Make sure that the thrust washers and plate are assembled in the correct order and are prevented from rotating separately by

engaging the collar pin with the locking piece on the thrust plate.

15 Starter motor (2M100 pre-engaged) - testing on engine

The test procedure for this type of starter motor is basically identical to that for the Lucas M35J pre-engaged Full information will be found in Section 12.

starter motor.

supply

connected to the small unmarked Lucar terminal and a good earth on the solenoid body. 22 As the coil is energised the solenoid should be heard to

16 Starter motor (2M100 pre-engaged) - removal and replacement

operate and the test lamp should light with full brilliance. 23 The contacts may only be renewed as a set, ie moving and

basically identical to that for the Lucas M35J pre-engaged starter motor. Full information will be found in Section 13.

The

removal

and

refitting

of this type of starter

motor

é

oe

ig. 10.3. Starter motor components (M35J pre-engaged) (Sec. 24) Armature

Solenoid Field coil Pole piece and long stud Pole piece and short stud Commutator end bracket

10 11

Commutator end bracket bush Field terminal Terminal insulating bush Thrustplate Pivot pin retaining clip

12 713. 14. 15 76 717

Drive end bracket End bracket bush

18 19

Grommet Jump ring Roller clutch drive Bearing bush

20 Bal 22, 23

Lever and pivot assembly Brush Thrust collar Shim

Fixing bolt Lockwasher

is

Chapter 10 Electrical system

17 Starter

motor

(2M100

pre-engaged)

- dismantling

and re-

assembly 1

Undo

6

and remove

the nut and spring washer that secures the

Ease the armature shaft.

shaft retaining ring (spire nut) from the

Note: The retaining ring must not be reused, but a

new one obtained ready for fitting. 7

Undo

10 The starter motor body may now be lifted from the armature and drive end assembly.

11 Ease the retaining ring (spire nut) from the engagement lever

connecting link between the solenoid and starter motor at the solenoid ‘STA’ terminal. Carefully ease the connecting link out of engagement of the terminal post on the solenoid. 2 Undo and remove the two nuts and spring washers that secure the solenoid to the drive end bracket. 3 Carefully ease the solenoid back from the drive end bracket, lift the solenoid plunger and return spring from the engagement lever, and completely remove the solenoid. 4 Recover the shaped rubber block that is placed between the solenoid and starter motor body. 5 Carefully remove the end cap seal from the commutator end cover. armature

147

and

remove

the

two

long

through

bolts

and

spring

washers. 8 Detach the commutator end cover from the yoke at the same time disengaging the field brushes from the brush box moulding. 9 Lift away the thrust washer from the armature shaft.

pivot pin. Note: The retaining ring must not be reused, but a new one obtained ready for fitting. 12 Using a parallel pin punch of suitable size, remove the pivot pin from the engagement lever and drive end bracket. 13 Carefully move the thrust collar clear of the jump ring, and slide the jump ring from the armature shaft. 14 Slide off the thrust collar, and finally remove the roller clutch drive and engagement lever assembly from the armature shaft. 15 For inspection and servicing information of the brush gear,

commutator, and armature refer to Section 11, paragraphs 5 to 8 inclusive.

16 To test the field coils refer to Section 11, paragraphs 9 and 10. 17 Check the condition of the bushes and if they show signs of wear remove the old ones and fit new as described in Section 11. paragraphs 11 to 17. Disregard the reference in paragraph 16 to the removal of the drive gear as this will have already been done. 18 Whilst the motor is apart, check the operation of the drive clutch. It must provide instantaneous take up of the drive in one direction and rotate easily and smoothly in the opposite direction.

Fig. 10.4. Exploded view of 2M100 starter motor (Sec. 29) Commu tator end cover

18

Connecting link securing nut Solenoid to drive end bracket securing set-screw Solenoid plunger Solenoid plunger return spring,

9 70 77 2 13

spring seat and dust excluder Rubber grommet Armature end cap seal Armature shaft retaining ring

14

Armature and roller clutch drive assembly

72]

15 16

Thrust collar and jump ring Spring ring

22 23

(spire nut)

17

Dirt seal

24

Through bolts

Yoke

Thrustwasher Retaining ring (spire nut) Engagement lever pivot pin

19

20

Drive end bracket armature shaft bush Commutator end cover armature shaft bush Field coil brushes Terminal and rubber grommet Rivet Pole shoe retaining screw Solenoid

148

Chapter 10 Electrical system

19 Make

sure that

the drive

moves

smoothly

on

the armature

shaft splines without binding or sticking. 20 Reassembling

the

starter

motor

is the reverse

sequence

to

dismantling. The following additional points should be noted: 21 When assembling the drive end bracket always use a new retaining ring (spire nut) to secure the engagement lever pivot Pin. 22 Make sure that the internal thrust washer is fitted to the commutator end of the armature shaft before the armature end cover is fitted. 23 Always use a new retaining ring (spire nut) on the armature shaft to give a maximum clearance of 0.010 in (0.254 mm) between the retaining ring and the bearing brush shoulder. This will be the armature endfloat. 24 Tighten the through bolts to a torque wrench setting of 8 Ib

ZS NY

BS | ass

RQ

f ft (1.106 kg fm) and the nuts securing the solenoid to the drive

Fig. 10.5. Starter motor solenoid (Inertia) (Sec. 18)

bracket to 4.51b f ft (0.61 kg fm).

18 Starter motor solenoid - removal and replacement Inertia Starter (Motor

1 For safety reasons, disconnect the battery. 2 Pull back the rubber covers and unscrew the terminal Detach the cables from the main terminals.

nuts.

3 Disconnect the cables from the terminal blades on the solenoid. 4 Undo and remove the two screws securing the solenoid to the mounting bracket. Lift away the solenoid.

5

Refitting the solenoid is the reverse sequence to removal.

Pre-engaged Starter Motor 1 For safety reasons disconnect the battery. 2 Undo and remove the terminal nut and detach the cables from the terminal post on the solenoid. 3 Disconnect the cables from the terminal blades on the solenoid. 4 Undo and remove the nut that secures the connecting link to the terminal ‘STA’ on the solenoid. 5 Undo and remove the two nuts and bolts or set screws securing the solenoid to the drive end-bracket. Lift away solenoid. 6 Refitting the solenoid is the reverse sequence to removal.

the

19 Starter solenoid relay - removal and replacement 1 For safety reasons, disconnect the battery. 2 Make a note of the location of the four cables and then disconnect them from the solenoid relay. 3 Undo and remove the two screws securing the relay to the wing valance. Note that the earth cable is retained by one of the screws. 4 Lift away the solenoid relay5 Refitting the starter solenoid relay is the reverse sequence to removal.

WA IS703

Fig. 10.7. Starter motor solenoid (2M100 Pre-engaged) (Sec. 18) I/tic

20 Flasher unit and circuit - fault tracing and rectification The flasher unit is enclosed in a small metal container and is Operated when the ignition is on by the composite switch mounted on the steering column. If the flasher unit fails to operate, or works either very slowly or very rapidly, check-out the flasher indicator circuit as

described

below,

itself: 1 Examine

the

before

assuming

direction

there

indicator

is a fault in the unit

bulbs

front

and

rear

for

broken filaments.

2

‘If the external flashers are working, but the internal flasher

warning

lights on

one

or

both

sides have ceased

to function,

check the filaments and replace as necessary. (Section 37)

Fig. 10.8. Starter solenoid relay (Sec. 19)

Chapter 10 Electrical system

149

3 If a flasher bulb is sound but does not work. With the aid of

insulation of the external wiring is not broken or damaged.

the wiring diagrams check the flasher circuit. 4 In the event of total indicator failure, check the ‘4 - 4U’ fuse.

is in order, then check the current the motor is taking by connecting up a 0-20 ammeter in the circuit and turning on the

5 With the ignition switched on, check that current is reaching the flasher unit by connecting a voltmeter between the ‘plus’ or

wiper switch. Consumption 2.5 amp (high speed).

‘B’ terminal and the ‘L’ terminal and operate the flasher switch. If the flasher bulb lights up the flasher unit itself is defective and

If no current is passing check fuse 4-4U. If the fuse has blown, replace it after having checked the wiring of the motor

must be replaced as it is not possible to dismantle and repair it. The flasher unit is located under the dashboard adjacent to the steering column rhd models),

and

21 Windscreen wiper arms - removal and replacement

endfloat which

should be between

0.2 mm).

endfloat

1 Before removing a wiper arm, turn the windscreen wiper switch on and off to ensure the arms are in their normal parked position parallel with the bottom of the windscreen.

2 arm

To remove the arms, pivot the arms back and pull the wiper head off the splined drive, at the same time easing back the

clip with a screwdriver. 3 When replacing an arm, place it so it is in the correct relative parked position and then press the arm head onto the splined drive till the retaining clip clicks into place.

other

electrical

If this

should be 1.5 amp (low speed) and

circuits

serviced

by

this

fuse

for

short

circuits. If the fuse is in good condition, check the wiper switch. lf the wiper takes a very high current, check the wiper blades for freedom of movement. If this is satisfactory, check the gearbox cover and gear assembly for damage and measure the The

is set

0.002 to 0.008

by the thrust

screw.

in (0.05 to Check

that

excessive friction in the cable connecting tubes, caused by too small a curvation, is not the cause of the high current consumption. If the motor takes a very low current, ensure that the battery is fully charged. Check the brush gear, after removing the commutator end bracket, and ensure that the brushes are free to move. If necessary, renew the tension spring. If the brushes are very worn they should be replaced with new ones. The armature may be checked by substitution.

23 Windscreen wiper blades - changing wiping arc 22 Windscreen cation

wiper

mechanism

- Fault diagnosis and rectifi-

Should the windscreen wipers fail, or work very slowly then check

the terminals

for loose connections,

and

make

sure the

If it is wished to change the area through which the wiper blades move, this is simpfy done by removing each arm in turn from each splined drive, and then replacing it on the drive ina slightly different radial position.

Fig. 10.9. Windscreen wiper wheelbox (Sec. 25) 1 2 3

Nut and spacer Nut Outer casings

4

Cover plate

5 6

Wheel and spindle Outer casing with nut in position

AIsT0OS

150

Chapter 10 Electrical system

me

24 Windscreen wiper motor and drive - removal and replacement 1

For safety reasons, disconnect the battery.

2

Refer to Section 21 and remove the wiper arms.

3 Disconnect the multi-pin screen wiper motor body.

terminal

connector

from

the wind-

4 Unscrew the outer casing retaining nut from the motor ferrule. Slide the nut down the cable tube. 5 Undo and remove the motor strap securing screws and plain washers. Lift away the strap and mounting pad. 6 The motor assembly complete with rack cable may now be drawn from the engine compartment. 7 Refitting the wiper motor and rack cable is the reverse sequence

to removal

but the following additional

points should

be noted: a)Smear the cable rack with a littie general purpose grease. b)Carefully push the cable rack into the outer casing ensuring the rack engages with the wheelbox gear teeth.

c) The rack must not be buckled or kinked.

25 Windscreen

and

wiper

motor,

drive

and

wheelboxes

- removal

replacement

1 Refer to Section 24 and remove the windscreen wiper motor and drive rack. 2 Refer to Chapter 12 and remove the facia panel. 3 Disconnect the demister hoses and remove the demister ducts. 4 Undo and remove the screw that secures each demister duct and carefully withdraw the demister ducts. 5 Undo and remove the retaining nut and remove the spacer from each wheelbox. 6 Unscrew (but do not completely remove) the nuts clamping

the wheelbox halves (plates) together. 7 The rack outer casings may now be removed from the wheel-

3

De-burr the gear shaft and lift away the gear making a careful

note of the location of the dished washer. 4 Scribe a mark on the yoke assembly and gearbox to ensufe. correct reassembly and unscrew the two yoke bolts from the

motor yoke assembly. Part the yoke assembly including armature from the gearbox body. As the yoke assembly has residual magnetism ensure that the yoke is kept well away from metallic dust. 5 Unscrew the two screws securing the brush gear and the terminal and switch assembly and remove both the assemblies.

6

Inspect

brushes

the brushes

are worn

for signs of excessive wear.

to a limit of 0.1875

If the main

in (4.763 mm)

or the

narrow section of the third brush is worn to the full width of the brush fit a new brush gear assembly. Ensure that the three brushes move freely in their boxes. If a push type spring gauge is available, check the spring rate which should be between 5 to 7 0z

f (140 - 200gf) when

the bottom of the brush is level with the

bottom of the slot in the brush box. Again, if the spring rate is incorrect, fit a new brush gear assembly. 7 If the armature is suspect take it to an automobile electrician to test for open or short circuiting. 8 Inspect the gear wheel for signs of excessive and fit a new one if necessary.

wear or damage

9 Reassembly is the reveise procedure to dismantling but there are several points that require special attention. 10 Use only grease to lubricate the gear wheel teeth and cam, the armature shaft worm gear, connecting rod and its connecting pin, the cross head slide and cable rack and wheelbox gear

wheels.

2

11 Use only oil to lubricate the bearing bushes, the armature shaft bearing journals (sparingly), the gear wheel shaft and crankpin, the felt washer in the yoke bearing (thoroughly soak) and the wheelbox spindles. 12 The yoke assembly fixing bolts should be tightened using a

torque wrench set to 14 Ib f ft (0.16kg fm). 13 When a replacement armature is to be fitted, slacken thrust screw so as to provide endfloat for fitting the yoke.

the

boxes.

14 The thrust disc inside the yoke bearing should be fitted with

8 The two wheelbox assemblies may now be removed from their locations in the top panel. 9 If necessary remove the coverplate. 10 Wash the wheelbox components in paraffin and wipe dry. 11 Inspect the condition of the wheel teeth and the cable rack. If signs of wear are evident new parts should be obtained. 12 To refit first grease the wheels and spindles with a little general purpose grease and then refit the wheelboxes to the

the concave side towards the end face of the bearing. The dished washer fitted beneath the gear wheel should have its concave side towards the gear wheel as shown in Fig. 10.10. 15 The larger of the two flat washers is fitted underneath the connecting rod and the smaller one on top, under the retaining Ccirclip. 16 To adjust the armature endfloat, tighten the thrust screw and then turn back one quarter of a turn so giving an endfloat of

top panel.

between 0.004 and 0.008 in (0.05 - 0.1 mm). The gap should be

13 Carefully align the outer casings and tighten the wheelbox covers. 14 It is important that the motor to wheelbox rack outer casing

measured under the head of the thrust screw. Fit a shim suitable size beneath the head, and tighten the screw.

of

is positioned correctly and is not kinked or flattened. To ensure

free rack movement the radius of the outer casing must not be less than 9 in (23 cm). 15 Should excessive friction be suspected remove the rack cable from the motor and insert into the outer casing. Using a pull type spring scale test the pull required to draw the cable rack “from the casing and wheelboxes. This must not exceed 6 Ib f

(7 kgf): 16 Refitting is now the reverse sequences to removal.

27 Windscreen washer jet and pump - removal and replacement

Washer jet 1

Using a knife carefully lift the lip of the jet and prise the jet

out 2 jet 3

of the body. Disconnect the tube from the jet. Take care not to break the union. Refitting the washer jet is the reverse sequence to removal.

Washer pump 26 Windscreen assembly

wiper

motor

- dismantling,

inspection

and

re-

1 Refer to Fig. 10.12 and remove the four gearbox cover retaining screws-and lift away the cover. Release the circlip and flat washer securing the connecting rod to the crankpin on the shaft and gear. Lift away the connecting rod followed by the second flat washer. 2 Release the circlip and washer securing the shaft and gear to the gearbox body.

1 For safety reasons disconnect the battery. 2 Make a note of the electrical connections to the pump and detach the two terminal connections. 3 Disconnect the two plastic tubes from the pump. 4 Undo and remove the two screws that secure the pump to the

bulkhead. Lift away the pump. 5 If the pump should prove

to be faulty it will have to be

renewed as it is a sealed unit available. 6 Refitting the washer pump removal.

and

individual

is the

reverse

parts are

not

sequence

to

H13579

Crankpin Ob Contact

Fig. 10.10. Windscreen wiper motor (Sec. 26) Crosshead

Gearbox cover Screw for cover

Shaft and gear

Connecting rod Circlip

Dished washer SOND Gearbox

Plain washers DAW

70 11 12 13

Screw Limit Brush Screw

for limit switch switch assembly gear for brush gear

14 15 16 17

Armature

Yoke assembly Yoke bolts Armature thrust screw

152

28 Windscreen

Chapter 10 Electrical system

wiper/washer

switch

- removal

and replacement

1 For safety reasons disconnect the battery. 2 Refer to Chapter 11 and remove the steering wheel. 3 Locate the two multi-pin connectors under the facia adjacent to the steering column and disconnect the two multi-pin connectors.

4 Undo but do not remove the switch clamp screw located under the mounting plate. 5 The switch assembly may now be lifted from the end of the steering column. 6 Remove the plastic harness tape and separate the electric leads for the two switches.

7 Carefully drill out the two rivets securing the windscreen wiper/washer switch to the mounting plate. 8 Undo and remove the screw securing the windscreen wiper/ washer switch to the mounting plate. 9 Refitting the windscreen wiper/ washer switch is the reverse sequence to removal. Care must be taken to ensure that the lug on the inner diameter of the switch locates in the slot in the steering outer column. Also the striker dog on the nylon switch centre must be in line withand towards the direction indicator

check that the horn is firmly secured and that there is nothing lying on the horn body. 2 The horn should never be dismantled, but it is possible to adjust it. This adjustment is to compensate for wear of the moving parts only and will not affect the tone. To adjust the

horn proceed as follows: a)On either the Lucas 9H or 6H models there is a small adjustment screw on the broad rim of the horn nearly opposite the two terminals. Do not confuse this with the large screw in the centre. b)Turn the adjustment screw anti-clockwise until the horns just fail to sound. Then turn the screw a quarter of a turn clockwise which is the optimum setting. c)it is recommended that if the horn has to be reset in the car, the fuse ‘I-l1U’ should be removed and replaced temporarily with a piece of wire, otherwise the fuse will continually blow due to the continuous high current required for the horn in continual operation.

d)With twin horns, the horn which is not being adjusted should be disconnected while adjustment of the other takes place.

switch stalk.

30 Headlight unit - removal and replacement 1

For safety reasons, disconnect the battery.

29 Horn - fault tracing and rectification

2 3

Refer to Chapter 12 and remove the radiator grille. Locate and disconnect the cable adaptor from the terminal

1 If a horn works badly or fails completely, first check the wiring leading to it for short circuits and loose connections. Also

blades at the rear of the sealed beam light unit. 4 Undo and remove the three screws securing the light unit rim to the backplate.

Fig. 10.11. Windscreen wiper/washer switch removal 7 2, 3

4

5 6 7 8

H 13706

(Sec. 28)

Multi-pin connectors

Switch clamp screw Switch assembly Electrical tape Screw Rivets

Outer column slot Alignment of striker dog

Chapter 10 Electrical system

153

7 Reassembly and refitting the headlight unit is the reverse sequence to removal. It is permissible to use self-tapping screws instead of rivets to secure the backplate to the front panel. Reset the headlight alignment as described in Section 31.

7 Should it be necessary to remove the backplate drill out the four ‘pop’ rivets. Lift away the backplate. 8 Reassembly and refitting the headlight reflector and lens and bulb is the reverse sequence to removal. It is permissible to use self-tapping screws instead of rivets to secure the backplate to the front panel. Reset the headlight alignment as described in Section 31.

Headlight bulb

31 Headlight beam - adjustments

5

Lift away the rim and sealed beam light unit.

6 Should it be necessary to remove the backplate drill out the four ‘pop’ rivets. Lift away the backplate.

On some model applications a pre-focus bulb is used instead of a sealed beam unit. To renew the bulb and reflector proceed as follows: 1 For safety reasons disconnect the battery. 2 Refer to Chapter 12 and remove the radiator grille. 3 Locate and disconnect the cable adaptor from the terminal blades at the rear of the bulb. 4 To remove the bulb release the spring clip and withdraw the bulb. 5 Undo and remove the three screws securing the reflector rim to the backplate. 6 The combined reflector and lens may now be lifted away. Check that the four anti-rattle rubbers are correctly located in the backplate.

The headlights may horizontal beam position

be adjusted for both vertical and by the two screws located as shown in

Fig. 10.13. They should be set so that on full or high beam, the beams are set slightly below parallel with a level road surface. Do not forget that the beam position is affected by how the car is normally loaded for night driving and set the beams loaded to this condition. Before adjustment is commenced check that the tyre pressures are correct. Although

this adjustment

can

be approximately

13707

Fig. 10.12. Headlight assembly (Sec. 30) Inset shows alternative pre-focus bulb used for export models

iN

My

i

Mh,

H

Fig. 10.13. Headlight beam adjustment points (Sec. 31) 1

Vertical adjustment

set at home

using a vertical wall it is recommended that this be left to the local garage who will have the necessary optical equipment to do the job more accurately.

2

Horizontal adjustment

13708

154

Chapter 10 Electrical system

32 Front side and flasher light bulb - removal and replacement 1 Undo and remove the three screws and sealing washers securing the lens to the light body. Lift away the lens. 2 To remove either bulb push the bulb in and turn anticlockwise to release the bayonet fitting. 3 Should it be necessary to remove the light body disconnect the light cables from the wiring harness snap connectors inside the front fitment.

wings.

Note

the

connections

to

ensure

correct

re

4 Undo and remove the four nuts and distance pieces securing the light body to the front wing. 5 Lift away the light body and gasket. 6 Refitting the light body and bulb is the reverse sequence to removal.

33 Rear stop, placement

tail

and

flasher

light

bulb

1 Working inside the luggage compartment from the rear of the light body.

- removal

and

re-

pull the bulb holder

2 To remove the buib push the bulb in and turn anticlockwise to release the bayonet fitting. 3

Should

it be

necessary

to

remove

the

complete

assembly

make a note of the terminal blade connectors to the bulb holders and detach. 4 Undo and remove the four nuts securing the light body to the rear wing. 5 Lift away the light body and gasket. 6 If the lenses are to be renewed it is necessary to remove the

light body first and then working from the rear undo and remove the four screws securing the two lenses to the body. 7 Reassembly and refitting is the reverse sequence prevent the bulb holder from being fitted incorrectly.

34 Rear number plate light bulb - removal and replacement 1 Push in the light lens and turn it 90° in either direction to release it from the light body. 2 The capless bulb may now be pulled from the light body. 3 Should it be necessary to remove the light assembly first detach the cable at the snap connector located inside the luggage compartment. 4 Undo and remove the two screws and plain washers securing the light body to its mounting bracket. 5 Lift away the light assembly. 6 Refitting the light assembly and bulb is the reverse sequence to removal.

Fig. 10.14. Front side and flasher light assembly

(left)

Bulb renewal

(right)

(Sec. 32)

Light assembly removal

Fig. 10.15. Rear stop, tail and flasher light assembly (Sec. 33)

(left)

Bulb renewal

to removal.

Note that the lugs in the bulb holder apertures in the light body

(right)

— Light assembly removal

Chapter 10 Electrical system

155

35 Reverse light bulb - removal and replacement 1 Undo and remove the two screws, clips and rubber pads securing the lens to the body. Lift away the lens. 2 The festoon bulb may now be unclipped from the spring contacts. 3 Should it be necessary to remove the reverse light assembly first detach the cable from the wiring harness located in the luggage compartment. 4 Undo and remove the two nuts securing the light assembly to the body. 5 The light assembly may now be detached from the body. 6 Refitting the light assembly and bulb is the reverse sequence to removal.

Fig. 10.16. Panel light bulb renewal (Sec. 37) 36 Interior

light and

luggage compartment

light bulb removal

Inset shows bulb and holder

and replacement

Interior light 1 Carefully and lightly press together the upper and lower surface of the lens to release it from the light body. Lift away the lens. 2 The festoon bulb may now be unclipped from the spring contacts. 3 Should it be necessary to remove the interior light assembly disconnect the battery for safety reasons and then undo and remove the two screws securing the light body to the roof. 4 Make a note of the two cable connections and detach from the light body. 5 Refitting the light body and lens is the reverse sequence to removal.

Luggage compartment 1

light

Undo and remove the two screws securing the light assembly

to the boot interior. 2 The festoon bulb may now be unclipped from the spring contacts. 3 Should it be necessary to remove the light assembly disconnect the battery for safety reasons. 4 Make a note of the two cable connections and detach from

the light assembly . 5 Refitting the bulb and light assembly to removal.

is the reverse sequence

4 The nacelle may next be pulled from the selector mechanism. 5 Partially raise the light body located in the rear end of the change speed gate and withdraw the bulb holder from the light body. 6 Move the selector lever rearwards and withdraw the bulb holder from the slide light body. 7 The bulb may now be lifted away from the bulb holder. 8 Refitting the bulb and holder is the reverse sequence to removal.

Hazard warning light 1

Working

behind

the

heater

cover

carefully

press out

the

hazard warning light.

2 The bulb holder may now be removed from light. 3 Lift away the bulb from the holder. 4 Refitting the bulb and holder is the reverse removal.

the warning

sequence

to

38 Hazard warning flasher unit - removal and replacement 1 For safety reasons disconnect the battery. 2 Pull the flasher unit from its holder which is mounted on the left-hand side of the steering column mounting bracket. 3 Note the two electrical cable connections and detach from the flasher unit.

4

Refitting the flasher unit is the reverse sequence to removal.

37 Warning and illumination bulb - removal and replacement

39 Switches - general - removal and replacement Panel light 1 For safety reasons, disconnect the battery. 2 Carefully pull off the instrument panel front casing from the four retaining clips in the instrument rear casing. 3 Undo and remove the four screws securing the instrument pack to the instrument rear casing. Pull the instrument pack from the facia. 4 Press the release tever on the speedometer cable connector and disconnect the speedometer cable from the rear of the instrument. 5 Pull out the relevant bulb holders from the rear of the instrument panel.

6 The capless bulb may now be pulled out from the bulb holder. 7 Refitting the bulb and instrument pack is the reverse sequence to removal.

Automatic transmission selector light 1 For safety reasons, disconnect the battery. 2 1500 Special and 1750 Sport Special only: Carefully remove the finisher panels and then undo and remove the four screws that secure the console assembly to the floor tunnel. 3 Remove the selector lever knob and locknut-

Ignition/starter switch 1

For safety reasons disconnect the battery.

2 Refer to Chapter 11 and remove the steering column cowl. 3 Locate the multi pin connector for the switch cables and detach at the harness. 4 Undo and remove the screw that retains the switch in the lock housing. 5 The switch assembly may now be detached. 6 Refitting the ignition/starter switch is the reverse sequence to removal. Ensure that the locating peg on the switch registers in the groove in the lock housing.

Lighting switch 1 For safety reasons disconnect the battery. 2 Undo and remove the four screws and washers that secure the heater cover. Lift away the heater cover. 3 Note the electrical cable connections at the rear of the switch and detach the cables. 4 Depress the two’catches’ on the switch body inwards and remove from the heater cover.

5

Refitting

removal.

the

lighting

switch

is the

reverse

sequence

to

156

Chapter 10 Electrical system Heated rear screen switch 1 2

For safety reasons, disconnect the battery. Undo and remove the two screws securing the heater cover to

the facia.

3 4 the 5

Detach the bulb holder from the rear of the switch. Make a note of the electric cable connections at the rear of switch and detach.

Depress the two

‘catches’ on the switch body

inwards and

remove from the heater cover.

6

Refitting the heated rear screen switch is the reverse sequence

to removal.

Hazard warning switch 1 For safety reasons, disconnect the battery. 2 Carefully reach behind the heater cover and press out the hazard warning switch. 3 Make a note of the electric cable connections at the rear of the switch and detach. 4 Refitting the hazard warning switch is the reverse sequence to removal.

HTL

Fig. 10.17. Hazard warning flasher unit (Sec. 38)

Stop light switch 1 2

Door pillar switch 1 Undo and remove the two screws that secure the switch to the door pillar. 2 Draw the switch from the door pillar and detach the cable from the rear of the switch. 3 Take care that the cable does not ‘disappear’ into the switch aperature.

Luggage compartment switch 1

Detach the cable from the rear of the switch.

2 Undo and remove the screw, plain and spring securing the switch mounting bracket to the body.

washers

3 To detach the switch from its mounting bracket drill out the ‘pop’ rivet. 4 Refitting the luggage compartment switch is the reverse sequence to removal. If a ‘pop’ rivet is not available use a small nut and bolt.

For safety reasons, disconnect the battery. Undo and remove the screws and spring washers securing the

driver’s side parcel tray. Lift away

the parcel tray,

3 Make a note of the electric cable connections at the rear of the switch and detach. 4 Undo and remove the outer locknut and withdraw the switch from its mounting bracket.

5 Refitting the stop light switch is the reverse sequence to removal. It must however be adjusted as described in the following paragraphs; 6 Refit the switch to its mounting bracket until the contacts are just open. Tighten the locknut. This position is best obtained using a test light and battery between the switch terminal blades. 7 Now slacken the inner locknut half a turn and tighten the outer locknut.

Headlight dip/flasher and horn switch Full information will be found in Section 28.

A

y

SS

é, HIS TIS

Fig. 10.18. Ignition/starter switch (Sec. 39) 7 2

Switch assembly Switch securing screw

3

Multi-pin connector

Chapter 10 Electrical system

157

H i374

Fig. 10.19. Heated rear screen switch (Sec. 39) Inset shows heater cover securing screws

5-5U:

40 Fuses

Heater motor and switch

Fuse rating The

main

tuses are

mounted

in block form

and are located

on the right-hand side of the bulkhead in the engine compartment. If any of the fuses blow due to a short circuit or similar

trouble, trace the fault and rectify before fitting a new fuse. The layout is shown in Fig. 10.20.

1-1U:

The units protected by this fuse are: Interior light Horn

Cigar lighter (if fitted) Split brake test switch and warning light (if fitted)

15 amp

Spare fuses: Two spare fuses are fitted block

to the centre

of the fuse

Line fuses: A line fuse such

as

is often

radio

sets.

fitted to protect individual Access

to

the

fuse

units

is gained

twisting the other end. The fuse may be lifted out.

Cooling fan motor and relay Fuse rating 35 amp

2-2U:

RHD models All side, tail, panel and number plate lights.

LHD models cnly All side, tail, panel and number plate lights fitted to the right-hand side of the car. Fuse rating 15 amp

3-3U:

LHD models only.

All side, tail, panel and number plate lights fitted to the left-hand side of the car. It is not used on RHD mocels. Fuse rating 15 amp

4-4U:

The following units protected by this fuse operate only when the ignition is switched on. Fit all accessOries to this fuse.

Windscreen wiper/washer switch Windscreen wiper motor Windscreen washer motor Flasher unit and flasher lights Stop lights Cooling fan relay and thermostat Automatic transmission gear quadrant light {if fitted) Heated rear screen and switch Fuse rating 35 amp

by

holding one end of the cylindrical tube, pushing in and

Hi9712

Fig. 10.20. Fuse box layout (Sec. 40) See text for fuse identification

158

Chapter 10 Electrical system

41 Instrument testing The bimetallic resistance equipment for the fuel and thermal type temperature gauge comprises an indicator head and trans-

mitter with

the unit connected to a common

voltage stabilizer.

This item is fitted because the method of operation of the equip-

ment is voltage sensitive, and a voltage stabilizer is necessary ensure a constant voltage supply at all times.

to

Special test equipment is necessary when checking correct operation of the voltage stabilizer, fuel gauge and temperature gauge so, if a fault is suspect, the car must be taken to the local BLMC garage who will have this equipment.

There are, however, several initial checks that can be carried out without this equipment and these are described in Chapters 2 and 3. Z

6 Depress the retainer and withdraw the cable multi-pin connector. The instrument pack may now be removed from the car. 7 8

Pull out the voltage stabilizer. Undo and remove the self-tapping

9

Next remove the panel and warning light bulb holders.

70Twin

pack:

Undo and remove

the four dowel

nuts and wave

washers that secure the temperature and fuel gauges to the rear of the pack. 71Quad pack: Undo and remove the four nuts and wave washers that secure the temperature and fuel gauges to the rear of the pack. 72Quad pack: Undo and remove the nuts and wave washers that secure the tachometer to the rear of the pack 13 Carefully withdraw the printed circuit plastic retaining pegs and carefully lift away the printed circuit.

14 Refitting removal.

42 Printed Circuit - removal and replacement

screws and lift away the

voltage stabilizer connectors.

the

printed

circuit

is the

reverse

sequence

to

1 For safety reasons disconnect the battery. 2 Rhd models only: Release the clip that secures the speedometer cable to the bulkhead.

3

Carefully pull off the instrument panel front casing. It is held

in position by four clips. 4 Undo and remove the

four

self-tapping

screws

and

plain

washers that secure the instrument pack to the instrument rear casing. Pull the instrument pack from the facia. 5 Press the release lever on the speedometer cable connector and disconnect instrument.

the

speedometer

cable

from

the

rear

of the

43 Voltage stabilizer - removal and replacement

1 The voltage stabilizer is a push fit into the rear of the instrument panel printed circuit. 2 To remove the unit refer to Section 42 and follow the instructions given in paragraphs 1 to 7 inclusive. 3 Refitting the voltage stabilizer and instrument pack is the reverse sequence to removal.

Fig. 10.21. Exploded view of twin pack gauges (Sec. 44)

Chapter 10 Electrical system

44 Twin

pack

gauges - removal and replacement

Temperature gauge —

Refer

to Section

42 and

follow

the instructions

given

in

Paragraphs 1 to 6 inclusive. 2 Carefully prise back the tabs and lift away the instrument bezel and joint washer. 3 Lift away the glasses and instrument cover. 4 Undo and remove the two dowel nuts and wave washers securing the temperature gauge to the pack. 5 Lift away the temperature gauge. 6 Refitting the temperature gauge and instrument pack is the reverse sequence to removal.

Fuel gauge The

sequence

for

removal

of

the

fuel

gauge

is basically

identical to that for the temperature gauge.

159

5 Lift away the speedometer grommet and ferrules. 6 Refitting the speedometer removal.

head

noting

the location

head

is the reverse

of the

sequence

to

47 Tachometer - removal and replacement 1

Refer

to Section

paragraphs

42 and

follow

the

instructions

given

in

1 to 6 inclusive.

2 Carefully prise the tabs and lift away the instrument bezel and joint washer. 3 Undo and remove the three nuts and wave washers securing the printed circuit to the tachometer terminals. 4 Undo and remove the three screws securing the tachometer to the instrument pack.Do not remove the central screw. 5 Lift away the tachometer. 6

Refitting the tachometer

is the reverse

sequence

to removal.

45 Quad pack gauges - removal and replacement

48 Speedometer cable - removal and replacement

Temperature gauge 1 Refer to Section 42 and Paragraphs 1 to 6 inclusive.

follow

the

instructions

given

in

2 Undo and remove the four screws that secure the instrument cover. Lift away the cover. 3 Undo and remove the two nuts and wave washers that secure the temperature gauge to the pack. 4 Lift away the temperature gauge. 5 Refitting the temperature gauge is the reverse sequence to removal.

Fuel

gauge

The sequence for removal of the fuel identical to that for the temperature gauge.

gauge

is basically

1

For

2

Rhd mogaels:

safety

reasons

disconnect

Release

the battery.

the clip that secures the speedometer

cable to the bulkhead. 3 Carefully pull off the instrument panel front casing. It is held in position by four clips. 4 Undo and remove the four self-tapping screws and plain washers that secure the instrument pack to the instrument rear casing. Pull the instrument pack from the facia. 5 Press the elease lever on the speedometer cable connector and disconnect the speedometer cable from the rear of the instrument. 6 Depress the retainer and withdraw the cable multi-pin connector. The instrument pack may now be removed from the

car. 7 The inner cable may now be withdrawn from the outer cable. 8 If it is necessary to remove the outer cable, first unscrew the speedometer cable from the pinion housing on the side of the

46 Speedometer

head

- removal

Refer to Section 42 and Paragraphs 1 to 6 inclusive.

_

2

and

follow

gearbox

replacement

the

instructions

given

in

Carefully prise the tabs and lift away the instrument bezel

and joint washer.

3 4

Lift away the glasses and instrument cover. Undo and remove the two screws

that

speedometer to the instrument pack.

secure

the

(or

automatic

transmission

unit).

9 Withdraw the speedometer cable complete with the grommet and clip from the engine compartment. 10 Finally remove the grommet and clip from the outer cable. 11 Refitting the speedometer inner and outer cables is the reverse sequence to removal. Lightly grease the inner cable and insert it into the outer cable. Withdraw it by about 8 inches (200 mm) and wipe off surplus grease. Do not use oil as it will find its way into the instrument head.

49 Electrical system - fault diagnosis

Symptom

Reason/s

Remedy

Starter motor fails to turn engine

Battery discharged Battery defective internally Battery terminal leads loose or earth lead not securely attached to body Loose or broken connections in starter motor circuit Starter motor switch or solenoid faulty

Charge battery. Fit new battery.

Check and tighten leads. Check

all connections

are loose. Test and

replace

and check any that

faulty

components

with

new. Starter motor pinion jammed in mesh with ring gear (inertia type)

Disengage pinion by turning squared end of armature shaft.

Starter brushes badly worn, sticking, brush wires loose Commutator dirty, worn, or burnt Starter motor armature faulty Field coils earthed

Examine brushes, replace as necessary, tighten down brush wires. Clean commutator, recut if badly burnt. Overhaul starter motor, fit new armature. Overhaul starter motor.

or

160

Chapter 10 Electrical system

Symptom

Remedy

Reason/s

Starter motor only turns engine slowly

Charge battery.

Battery in discharged condition

Starter

brushes

badly

worn,

sticking,

or

brush wires loose Loose wires in starter motor circuit

Starter spins, but does not turn engine

Check wiring and tighten as necessary.

Starter motor pinion sticking on the screwed

sleeve (inertia type) Pinion or ring gear teeth broken or worn Battery discharged Starter motor engagement

noisy or excessively rough

Pinion or ring gear teeth broken or worn

Starter type)

drive

main

spring

broken

(inertia

Starter motor retaining bolts loose Battery

will

not

hold

charge

for more

than a few days

Battery defective internally Electrolyte

level

too low or electrolyte too

weak due to leakage Plate separators no longer fulty effective Battery plates severely sulphated Fan belt slipping Battery terminal connections loose or corroded Alternator not charging properly Short in lighting circuit causing continual battery drain

Ignition light fails to go out, battery runs flat in a few days

Examine brushes, replace as necessary, tighten down brush wires.

Fan belt loose and slipping, or broken Internal fault

Remove starter motor, clean starter motor drive. Fit new gear ring, and new pinion to starter motor drive. Charge battery. Fit new ring gear, or new pinion to starter motor drive. Dismantle and fit new main spring. Tighten starter motor securing bolts. Fit new spring washer if necessary. Remove and fit new battery. Top up electrolyte level to just above plates. Remove and fit new battery.

Remove and fit new battery. Check belt for wear, replace if necessary, and tighten. Check terminals for tightness, and remove all corrosion. Remove and overhaul alternator. Trace and rectify. Check, replace, and tighten as necessary.

Seek specialist advice if all electrical nections are satisfactory.

con-

Failure of individual electrical equipment to function correctly is dealt with alphabetically, item by item, under the headings listed below:

Fuel gauge Fuel gauge gives no reading

Fuel tank empty! Electric cable between

tank sender unit and

gauge earthed or loose

Fuel gauge case not earthed Fuel gauge supply cable interrupted Fuel gauge unit broken

Fuel gauge registers full all the time

Fill fuel tank. Check cable for earthing and joints tightness. Ensure case is well earthed. Check and replace cable if necessary. Replace fuel gauge.

for

Electric cable between .tank unit and gauge broken or disconnected

Check over cable and repair as necessarv.

Horn-push either earthed or stuck down

Disconnect battery earth. Check and rectify source of trouble. Disconnect battery earth. Check and rectify source of trouble.

Horn

Horn operates all the time

Horn cable to horn push earthed Horn fails to operate

Blown fuse Cable or cable connection loose, broken or disconnected Horn has an internal fault

Check and renew if broken. Ascertain cause Check all connections for tightness and cables for breaks. Remove and overhaul horn.

Horn emits intermittent or unsatisfactory

Cable connections loose Horn incorrectly adjusted

Check and tighten all connections.

If engine not running, battery discharged

Push-start car, charge battery. Test bulbs in live bulb holder.

Lights do not come on

Light bulb filament burnt out or bulbs broken Wire connections loose, disconnected or broken Light switch shorting or otherwise faulty

Lights come on but fade out

If engine not running battery discharged

Adjust horn until best note obtained.

Check all connections for tightness and wire cable for breaks. By-pass light switch to ascertain if fault is in switch and fit new switch as appropriate.

Push-start car, and charge battery.

161

Chapter 10 Electrical system Symptom

Reason/s

Remedy

Lights give very poor illumination

Lamp glasses dirty Reflector tarnished or dirty Lamps badly out of adjustment Incorrect bulb with too low wattage fitted Existing bulbs old and badly discoloured Electrical wiring too thin not allowing full

Clean glasses. Fit new reflectors. Adjust lamps correctly. Remove bulb and replace with correct grade. Renew bulb units. Rewire lighting system

current to pass Lights work erratically - flashing on and

Battery terminals or earth connection

loose

Wipers Wiper motor fails to work

Blown fuse Wire connections loose, broken Brushes badly worn Armature worn or faulty

disconnected,

or

Field coils faulty Wiper motor works very takes excessive current

slowly

and

Commutator dirty, greasy, or burnt Drive to wheelboxes too bent or unlubricated

Wheelbox spindle binding or damaged Armature bearings dry or unaligned Armature badly worn or faulty

Wiper

motor

remain static

works

works

slowly

but

battery

terminals and earth connec-

Examine and rectify. By-pass light switch to ascertain if fault is in switch and fit new switch as appropriate.

Lights not earthing properly Contacts in light switch faulty

Wiper motor little current

Tighten

tion.

off, especially over bumps

and _ takes

wiper

blades

Brushes badly worn Commutator dirty, greasy, or burnt Armature badly worn or faulty

Driving cable rack disengaged or faulty

Check and replace fuse if necessary. Check wiper wiring. Tighten loose connections. Remove and fit new brushes. If electricity at wiper motor remove overhaul and fit replacement armature. Purchase reconditioned wiper motor.

and

Clean commutator thoroughly. Examine drive and straighten out severe curvature. Lubricate. Remove, overhaul, or fit replacement. Replace with new bearings correctly aligned. Remove, overhaul, or fit replacement armature. Remove and fit new brushes.

Clean commutator thoroughly. Remove and placement.

overhaul

armature

Wheelbox gear and spindle damaged or worn

Examine and if faulty, replace. Examine and if faulty, replace.

Wiper motor gearbox parts badly worn

Overhaul or fit new gearbox.

or

fit re

162

Key to wiring diagrams on pages 163 and 164

Split brake differential switch (if fitted)

Wiper motor

Starter solenoid relay (if fitted)

Radiator cooling fan motor

Battery Alternator RH side lamp RH front flasher lamp LH front flasher lamp LH side lamp

Fuse unit (No. 2 and No. 3 fuse) Lighting switch

Heated back light (if fitted) Reverse light switch (if fitted) Split brake test switch and warning light

(if fitted) Cigar lighter (if fitted)

DANDAAAWNH™ RH repeater flasher

(if fitted) LH repeater flasher (if fitted)

Hazard warning flasher unit

Clock (if fitted)

RH dip headlamp RH main headlamp LH dip headlamp LH main headlamp Heater motor Electric windscreen washer Heater switch Starter solenoid

Radio (if fitted)

Hazard warning lamp Hazard warning switch Flasher unit Stop lamp switch Instrument voltage stabilizer RH tail lamp No charge warning lamp Oi! pressure warning lamp Direction indicator switch RH stop lamp Fuel gauge

Line fuse for radio

Water temperature gauge

Automatic transmission inhibitor (if fitted) Ignition coil Combined wiper and washer switch

Fuse unit (No. 5 fuse)

Direction indicator warning lamp

Starter motor

Panel lamp (Sport and SS models) Panel lamp

/gnition/starter switch Line fuse (if fitted)

Main beam warning lamp

Panel lamp Panel lamp (Sport and SS mode!/s) LH tail lamp Number plate illumination lamp Number plate i//umination lamp LH stop lamp Oil pressure switch Fuel gauge tank unit Water temperature transmitter

Distributor

Fuse unit (No. 7 fuse) Dip switch Headlamp flasher switch Horn push

Fuse unit (No. 4 fuse)

Heated back light switch (if fitted) Interior light Radiator cooling Radiator cooling /nduction heater Suction chamber

fan thermostat fan relay

Tachometer (Sport and SS models) LH rear flasher lamp

and thermostat (if fitted) heater (if fitted)

Horn/(s)

LH reverse lamp (Special and SS models) RH reverse lamp (Special and SS models)

RH door switch LH door switch

RH rear flasher lamp Printed circuit instrument pane!

Automatic gear quadrant illumination (if fitted) Cable colour code

Brown Blue Red

Orange White

Pink Purple Dice QE, Green

Yellow Black AWD