Haynes Austin Allegro Owners Handbook & Servicing Guide 085696431X, 9780856964312

Citation preview

OWNERS HANDBOOK & Servicing Guide

Austin

Allegro All models from 1973, Mk 1098 cc 12/5 %ce

1485 cc 1748 cc

1& Mk 2:

Saloon de Luxe Saloon Super & Super de Luxe Estate Super de Luxe Saloon Special & Super Estate Super.de Luxe Saloon Sport, Sport Special, Sport TC and HL

Owner’s Handbook/Servicing Guide by Trevor G Hosie

=

Acknowledgements Thanks are due to many people for their assistance to the author and publishers during the preparation ofthis Handbook. Special mention must be made of Vincents of Yeovil and Sedna Service Station of Queen Camel. Advice on lubrication was given by Castrol Ltd, and on spark plugs by the Champion Sparking Plug Company. Martin Penny carried out the various servicing operations in our own workshops, and these were photographed by Leon Martindale. The layout of the pages was planned by Stanley Randolph. A book in the Haynes Owner's Guide Series.

Handbook/Servicing

Edited by Robin Wager

© Haynes Publishing Group 1979 Printed and published by the Haynes Publishing Group, Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset. BA22 7JJ

ISBN 0 85696 431 X Although every care has been taken to ensure the correctness of data used, it must be borne in mind that alterations and design changes can occur within the production run of a model without specific reclassifications. No liability can be accepted for ‘damage, loss or injury caused by errors or ommissions in the information given.

Contents What's in it for You?

5

Atout this Handbook

The Allegro Family

a

Main production dates and changes

Road Test Data

Tet

Performance figures from Autocar

In the Driving Seat

12

Instruments, controls, layout

Filling Station Facts

20

Garage forecourt guide to tyre pressures etc.

QUICK-CHECK

CHART

22

Fill-up data at-a-glance

In an Emergency Get-you-home

Zo

kit, wheel changing, towing, light bulb renewal

Save It!

;

34

Cutting motoring costs - safely

Vital Statistics

38

Technical data on all models

Tools for the Job

48

Getting equipped - what to buy

51

Service Scene What to do, when

and how to do it

Body Beautiful

81

Cleaning and renovating the car

The Personal Touch

88

Adding accessories

Troubleshooting

oF

Charts to help when things go wrong

Conversion

Factors

109

‘What's that in pounds per square inch.. y

Index

110

OOLL AP W6al/i7 aXxN]

What's in it for You? Whether you've bought this book yourselfor had it given to you, the idea was probably the same in either case—to help you get the best out of your Allegro and perhaps to make your motoring a bit less of a drain on your hard-earned cash at the same time.

Garage labour charges can easily be several times your own hourly rate of pay, and usually form the main part of any servicing bill; we'll help you avoid them by carrying out the routine services yourself. Even if you don't want to do the regular servicing, and prefer to leave it to your BL dealer, there are some things you should check regularly just to make sure that your car's not a danger to you or to anyone else on the road; we tell you what they are. If you're about to start doing you own servicing (whether to cut costs or to be sure that it’s done properly) we think you'll find the procedures described give an easy-to-follow introduction to what can be a very satisfying way of spending a few hours of your spare time. We've included some tips that should save you some money when buying replacement parts and even while you're driving; there's a chapter on cleaning and renovating your car, and another on fitting accessories. Apart from the things every Allegro owner needs to know to deal with mishaps like a puncture or a broken headlamp, we've put together some Troubleshooter Charts to cover the more likely of the problems that can crop up with even the most carefully maintained car

sooner or later. There's also a set of conversion tables and a comprehensive alphabetical index to help you find your way round the book. If the bug gets you, and you're keen to tackle some of the more advanced repair jobs on you car, then you'll need our Owner's Workshop Manual for your particular model, which gives a step-by-step guide to all the repair and overhaul tasks, with plenty of illustrations to

make things even clearer.

; os ie

Allegro 1300 de Luxe

The Allegro Family After many successful production years of the now familiar transversely-mounted, front-wheel-drive engine which first appeared in the Mini back in 1959, it came as no surprise when, in May 1973, British Leyland introduced yet another model to their comprehensive range of transverse-engined vehicles. Known differently

as the Austin Allegro, it used a new, and styled, bodyshell (which meets the European Economic Community's regulations for frontal barrier impact and controlled-rate crushing) and was fitted with Dunlop’s new Hydragas suspension. Perhaps the most talked-about feature of the new

model was its so-called Quartic steering wheel which, instead of being the conventional circular type, was more of a square shape; this was supposed to be ergonomically beneficial, but received much criticism and was eventually phased out.

Engines for the Allegro model come in four sizes: the well tried and approved 1098 cc and 1275 cc overhead valve power units, fitted to the early Austin/Morris (and later British Leyland) 1100 and 1300 models or, for those who enjoy a little more power, the overhead camshaft 1485 cc and 1748 cc power units_as fitted to the Maxi. A four-speed automatic transmission is optionally

available on all but the 1100 version; manual transmissions used are, on the 1100 and 1300 cc vehicles, a four forward speed all-synchromesh transmission, and on the larger engines a five forward speed all-synchromesh transmission.

As- usual, British Leyland haven't overlooked the requirements of the more sporting owner and, along with the De Luxe and Super De Luxe models, there are also a 1500 Special, a 1750 Sport and a Sport Special. These models were replaced in September 1974 by a Sport TC and an HL model, both of which are fitted with twin carburettor engines. A Vanden Plas version, always recognized as the most luxuriously equipped of a particular Leyland range, has also been included; using the same basic bodyshell, but fitted with many characteristic refinements, the Vanden Plas was introduced in September 1974 and uses the 1485 cc overhead camshaft power unit.

In June

1975,

1300

and 1500 Estate versions

were announced, which are mechanically identical to

the Saloon models. After many modifications to the vehicle, which included moving the rear seat back to give more rear passenger leg room, softening the front Hydragas suspension and stiffening the rear, plus many more interior and exterior trim changes, the model range was redesignated the Allegro 2 in October 1975. Full mechanical details are given in Vita/ Statistics 7

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Allegro HL

THE ALLEGRO but here’s

FAMILY

a summary of the life story of the range.

Allegro 1100,

1300,

May 1973

1500 and 1750 Models introduced, which included 1100 DL, 1300 DL, +300 SDL,

1500 SDL, 1500 Special, 1750 Sport and Sport Special. September 1974

1750 Sport and Sport Special discontinued, to be replaced by Sport TC and HL models which are fitted with twin carburettors and a circular leather-trimmed steering wheel in place of the Quartic wheel.

May 1975

New steering rack fitted; phasing out of the Quartic steering wheel. New, more powerful alternator fitted.

June

1300 and 1500 Estate versions announced.

1975

October 1975

Renamed the Allegro 2. The rear seat has been moved back 3 inches. Modifications to the suspension. Improved fresh air ventilation. 1750 Sport discontinued.

Vanden Plas 1500 1974

Model introduced. Fitted with 1485 cc overhead camshaft engine. Available only as a Saloon.

September 1975

Improvements as for the Allegro range. Picnic tables fitted to backs of front seats.

June

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In the Driving Seat Having found out a few details of production history, let's look at some of the more important things you'll need to know from the driving seat. Fortunately, the layout of the Allegro models is pretty straightforward for the experienced motorist, but a little information on one or two things may be useful if you're not familiar with the car. The accompanying illustrations show typical instrument panel layouts used on the various models during

the production

run.

In general,

they're

self-

explanatory, but the following points may be useful if you've recently acquired a model or are borrowing one temporarily.

Warning lights

Switches and controls

Ignition warning light

Switches

The red ignition light should be on when the ignition circuit is switched on, but should go out as soon as the engine has started to run. If this doesn't

With the exception of the windscreen wash and wipe control and the direction indicator controls, all switches used on the Allegro and Vanden Plas 1500 models are of the rocker type. Both the windscreen

happen, you've probably got a charging circuit problem which needs pretty urgent attention.

Oil pressure warning light When the ignition circuit is switched on, this warning light (red on the Vanden Plas, amber on Allegro models) should come on, but should go out as soon as the engine has started running. If it doesn't go out within a second or so of start-up, it suggests either a lack of oil or a considerable degree of wear somewhere in the engine mechanism; it’s also possible (but less likely) that some of the oilways are blocked. These faults can be lived with for a while, but expect problems

in the not too distant future!

If the

warning light comes on while you're travelling, switch off the engine immediately—it could be a faulty switch, but more likely you're out of oil and that's serious. If you can't find the cause, get expert assistance, but don’t drive the car.

Brake failure warning lamp

12

the front and rear brakes operate independently of each other) a warning light’s provided. Should this lamp come on during normal driving, it means that the system is faulty and should be _ investigated immediately. To check that the lamp is serviceable, a ‘press-to-test’ switch is fitted below the lamp.

Where a dual braking system is fitted, (i.e. where

wash and wipe and the direction indicator controls are of the multi-position (or combination) type, the wind-

screen wash and wipe control being fitted to the left side of the steering column, and the combined direction indicator, headlamp flash, dip and horn switch being fitted on the right.

Ignition switch/steering lock The switch is marked 0, I, Il and III, these positions being as follows: O — steering locked. To engage the lock, turn the key fully anti-clockwise. When resistance is felt, depress the key, turn further and withdraw. | — Accessories on. Turning the key clockwise from O, unlocks the steering and permits the use of

accessories such as heater blower and radio (if fitted). Note: \t may be necessary to rotate the steering wheel slightly when engaging and disengaging the lock. Il — Ignition on. Ill — Engine start. As soon as the engine has started, the key should be released to return of its own accord to position II.

, Semitic

ae

Interior of Allegro 1500 Special

Interior of Allegro 1750 Sport

1

2

3

oS “

Ga

‘

9210). 11 Speedometer Main beam warning light Fuel gauge Temperature gauge

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@) bey

Facia layout — early vehicles 5 Ignition warning light 6 Direction indicator warning light 7 Oil pressure warning light Side and headlamp switch

anes 9

Hazard warning repeater light 10 Hazard warning switch 11 Heated rear window switch

1Om Fuel gauge Speedometer Main beam warning light Tachometer

i.

12

11 Clock Temperature gauge Fuel gauge Battery condition indicator Speedometer Fog lamp switch Side and headlamp switch

49

8

C

Facia layout — later vehicles 5 Temperature gauge 6 Ignition warning light 7 Direction indicator warning light Oil pressure warning light

12

9

6

Side and headlamp

Switch 10 Hazard warning repeater light 711 Hazard warning switch 712 Heated rear window Switch

3

Facia layout — Vanden Plas 1500 vehicles 8 Heated rear window 13 switch 9 Trip mileage contro! 14 recorder 70 Panel lamp switch 15 711 Heater blower motor 76 17 switch : 712 Hazard warning lamp switch

9 Direction indicator warning lights Hazard warning

repeater

light Ignition warning light Main beam warning light Oil pressure warning

light

The steering column stalk switches A — windscreen wash and wipe control 7 Wash position 2 Single wipe 3 Normal wipe position speed B —

1

direction indicator, main beam

Left-hand indicators

2

High speed wipe

and horn control

Right-hand indicators

3

Main beam

Headlamp Horn

flash

H7869

The ignition switch/steering lock O — Steering locked | — Accessories on Il — Ignition on Ili — Engine start

Manual transmission gearchange positions B — 5 speed A — 4 speed

IN THE DRIVING SEAT

Driving controls

Heating and ventilating controls

The accompanying illustrations show the layout of

the driving controls, which are for the most part selfexplanatory. Special note should be made, however, of the gear positions. The 1100/1300 vehicles are fitted with a conventional four-speed transmission, while the 1500/1750 vehicles have a five-speed transmission. Once the initial problem of remembering that you have a fifth gear has been overcome, no trouble should be encountered in engaging it and, once you've got used to it, you'll wonder what you ever did without it!

The ventilation system is operated by ram air effect, with a two-position switch-operated blower to provide a boost, or airflow when the car is travelling at

Bonnet release To release the bonnet, pull the release mechanism knob, which is located beneath the right-hand side of the facia; this will release the lock but the bonnet will still be held by the safety catch. Press the safety catch lever rearwards until it’s possible to raise the bonnet. Unclip the stay and firmly support the bonnet by inserting the stay into the slot designed for this purpose.

Typical heating and ventilation controls 7 Blower switch 4 Air to interior

2 3

Air distribution lever Ailr to screen position

5

position Temperature control lever

Typical bonnet release catch and stay 71 2

Bonnet catch Release knob

3

Safety catch lever

4 5

Safety catch Stay

6 7

Clip Support bracket

17

IN THE DRIVING SEAT low speed. The air distribution lever can be used to direct air to the windscreen and facia, or generally to

the car interior. The temperature control lever is used to regulate the airflow temperature from cold to hot. The facia vents fitted to the Vanden Plas 1500 are of the swivelling eyeball type, and the Allegro models are fitted with a similar design which, although oblong in shape, gives the same airflow directions.

Automatic transmission An Automatic Products automatic transmission is available as a factory fitted option on all but the 1100 models, and has found favour with many drivers. Its only slight drawback is a rather sluggish behaviour when cold, but otherwise it's not known to be a problem item. The transmission incorporates a fluid torque converter coupled to a hydraulically operated four-speed and reverse gearbox. The driver can either use the system as a fully automatic transmission, or use the selector lever to engage the gears as with a normal gearbox.

Selector lever on automatic transmission systems

Selector positions The selector lever is mounted centrally, forward of the handbrake, with a quadrant showing the selector positions, which are as follows:

‘P’ —

18

Park (1500/1750 models only)

‘R’ — Reverse gear ‘N’ — Neutral ‘|’ — First gear lock-up ‘2' — Second gear lock-up ‘3’ — Third gear lock-up ‘D’ — Automatic drive When starting, apply the handbrake, select ‘P’ (where applicable) or ‘N’ and turn the ignition key. These are the only selector positions which can be used for starting. It's preferable to warm up the engine for half a minute before driving, since this permits the choke to be pushed in slightly. The gear-changing may otherwise be a little ‘lumpy’. When stationary always Operate the footbrake before selecting a gear to prevent movement of the car; the handbrake is less effective since it controls the rear wheels only. Don't select ‘3' when starting from rest. Prolonged use of this technique may overheat the torque converter and damage both engine and trans-mission. ‘R’ must only be selected when at a standstill and never when moving. When stopping, release the accelerator and apply the brakes. “‘R’ must only be selected when at a standstill and never when moving. When stopping, release the accelerator and apply the brakes irrespective of the

3

2

1

Accelerator pedal positions with automatic transmission

7 2 3

Low speed up-changes High speed up-changes Kickdown position

IN THE DRIVING SEAT selector position. If you intend to drive the car in ‘D’, leave the selector lever in position; otherwise select

‘N’. If you leave the vehicle with the engine running, select ‘N’ and apply the handbrake. When parking, apply the handbrake, select ‘N’ or ‘P’ (where applicable) and switch off the ignition.

Automatic gear changing

Special driving conditions When starting in very cold weather, drive the carin second gear (manual selection) for a few hundred yards to allow the transmission fluid to warm up quickly. If extra engine braking is required when ascending steep hills, select ‘2’. Don’t select ‘1’ as there is a free wheel on this gear! In very slippery conditions it may be necessary to rock the car backwards and forwards by alternately selecting ‘1’ and ‘R’ until forward traction is obtained,

To drive forward, apply the footbrake, select ‘D’, release the brakes and depress the accelerator pedal.

then selecting ‘2’ and ‘3’ to avoid wheelspin.

Gear changing is then automatic and no further movement of the selector lever is necessary. When the

Towing

engine is cold there may be a slight delay between selecting ‘D’ and engagement of the gear. The point at which change-up occurs is dependant upon accelerator pedal pressure. Light pressure gives a

change

at low speed (1), heavier pressure gives a

change at higher speeds (2) for improved acceleration. When pedal pressure is released the gearbox changes down as the car slows down. For overtaking, a lower gear can be selected automatically by pressing the accelerator pedal down fully. This provides maximum acceleration and is known as ‘kickdown’ (3).

Manual gear changing For manually operated gear changing, first apply the footbrake, select ‘1’ then release the brakes and depress the accelerator. To change up, move the selector lever to ‘2’, ‘3’ and ‘D’ in turn, as the speed increases; don’t release the accelerator pedal between

changes. To change down, select ‘3’, ‘2’ and ‘1’ as required. Never change down into third or second gear at speeds above 60 mph and 45 mph respectively.

Select ‘D’ when towing a caravan or trailer under normal driving conditions. Select ‘2’ on downhill gradients where additional engine braking is required.

Being towed If the transmission is fully operational, check that the engine oil level is up to the ‘max’ mark on the dipstick (see Weekly Servicing). Make sure that the ignition is off (but the steering not locked!), the handbrake is released and ‘N’ is selected. Don't allow the car to be tawed at more than 20 mph or for any greater distance than is absolutely necessary.

Emergency starting You can't tow-start an automatic model, so don't bother to try! If your battery's flat, the only solution is to connect up another one in parallel using jumper cables, or to charge or renew your own battery.

Maintenance Refer to Weekly Servicing.

19

Filling Station Facts Forgetting about the actual servicing and mechanical maintenance of your car for the time being, there are some things which are so simple they're likely to get overlooked; but they're not only an important part of the maintenance of your car — they're vital for its safety and reliability too. Three of these items — tyres, oil and water — you can check if necessary whenever you visit a petrol station.

We've set out here the absolute minimum of information you need right from the very first day you drive your Allegro.

Topping up oil Whenever you top up the oil level, always try to use the same grade and brand; and do avoid using cheap oil — the initial saving will probably be lost in increased engine wear over a prolonged period — or perhaps a short one!

Filling Station check points

(1100/1300 shown) 1

Engine/gearbox oil

2 3 4

Battery Coolant Tyres

When checking the oil level, ensure that the car's standing on level ground. Take out the dipstick, wipe it clean, then replace it fully. Pull it out again and note the oil level. Under no circumstances should the level be allowed to drop below the MIN mark. If the oil level is at this mark, about 1% pints will be needed to bring it up

FILLING STATION FACTS to MAX. Avoid over-filling and wipe up any oil spilt.

Checking coolant level If the engine's at its normal running temperature or higher, take extra care when removing the filler cap. Place a rag over the cap, turn slowly anti-clockwise to the first position, and allow the pressure in the system to escape, then again turn anti-clockwise and remove carefully. If a considerable amount of water's required to top up or you're continuously adding water during the winter months, the antifreeze mixture will be diluted and made less effective. So if antifreeze is in use, topping up should be done with water/antifreeze mixture in the correct proportions. The coolant level should be brought up to the level mark on the reservoir. Make sure that the cap’s properly fitted afterwards. (See also Week/y Service Schedule).

Tyre pressures When checking tyre pressures don’t forget to check the pressure in the spare — in the event of a puncture you could be in for a ‘let down’! If you're affluent enough to have your own tyre pressure gauge, always use this to check the pressures — garage gauges aren't always terribly accurate and it’s essential that the pressures are right to ensure the correct handling of the car when steering and braking. Remember that tyre pressures can only be checked accurately when the tyres are cold. Any tyre that’s travelled more than a mile or so will show a pressure increase of several pounds per square inch (psi) — maybe more than 5 psi after a longer run. So a certain

amount of ‘guesstimation’ comes into checking tyres if they're warm. Since the pressures won't increase for any reason other than heat, the least you can do is to ensure that the pressures in the two front tyres are equal, bearing in mind that they may be a bit above those shown in the table. (The same applies to the two back tyres, but remember that their pressure should be different from the front). If one tyre of a pair has a low pressure when hot, bring it up to the pressure of the other at the same end of the car; if they're both below the recommended cold pressure although warm, the safest thing to do is to bring them up to about 3 psi above it, to allow for cooling.

Se/f-servicing garages Many garages now operate on a self-service basis so that the customer's subjected to the intricacies of refuelling his or her own vehicle. Regulars to this type

of establishment need no introduction to its methods of operation and can usually be seen going through the routine at high speed like well-oiled robots. To the newcomer, the operation of the various kinds of pump can at first be confusing, but don’t panic! Carefully read each instruction on the pump in turn before attempting to work it. When refuelling, insert the nozzle fully into the car's filler tube and try to regulate the fuel flow at an even rate so that it's not too fast. Most pumps now have an automatic flow back valve mechanism fitted in them, which prevents any surplus petrol making a speedy exit from the filler neck all over the unsuspecting operator. On completion, don't forget to refit your petrol filler cap!

Checking tyre pressure

21

QUICK-CHECK CHART TYRE

PRESSURES

Recommended pressures for cold tyres in psi (kgf/cm?)

Tyre size (wheel size)

Front

1100, 1300 and 1500 145-13 Radial (4.50C x 13) (Saloon)

26 (1.8)

145-13 Radial (4J x 13) (Estate) up to a load of 704lb up to max. load of 875lb

26 (1.8) 26 (1.8)

24 (1.7) 28 (2.0)

26 (1.8)

30 (2.1)

|

30 (2.1)

1750 and Vanden

155-13

Plas Radial (4.50C x 13)

Rear

FUEL OCTANE RATING Allegro 1300 All other models

3 star (Min. 94 octane) 4 star (Min. 97 octane)

FUEL TANK All models

10% gallons (47.7 litres)

CAPACITY

ENGINE OIL TYPE All models (normal UK use)

20W-50 multigrade

QUANTITY OF OIL REQUIRED TO BRING LEVEL FROM M/N TO MAX ON DIPSTICK All models Approx 1.75 pints (1.0 litre)

Min. 90 octane

Min. 94 octane

Min. 97 octane

Min. 100 octane

% * mn || * Fuel Octane/star ratings. Use the correct grade for your car

*

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In an Emergency There's been no car yet invented that can guarantee you a safe and reliable journey from A to B every day of your life. Whether it’s due to a puncture or a more serious mechanical problem, the time will almost certainly come when your trusty transport needs a bit of roadside attention. The Troubleshooter section should help to trace the cause of an unexpected fault, but it isn't much good knowing what's wrong if you've nothing to put it right with, or needing to change a wheel in the dark when you haven't a clue how the jack works. A few minutes spent reading through this section now could save you much time and temper later on!

Spares and repairs kit The basic ‘tools’ supplied with the car won't get you very far in the event of a roadside breakdown. An additional tool kit is essential if you're to hope to carry out any repairs yourself — and anyway, you'll need them eventually for servicing; there’s more information on the sort of items to buy in Joo/s for the Job. A few things which can be fitted without too much bother at the roadside should also be carried. It’s really up to you to decide what sort of repairs are within your capabilities in an emergency, but the kind of things you should consider are: Spark plug, clean and with the correct gap HT lead and plug cap - long enough to reach the plug furthest from the distributor

Of course, it’s possible to expand this list indefinitely; for example, you might prefer to have a set of spare coolant hoses instead of just a repair bandage, but obviously there has to be a compromise or you'll have no spare room in the boot! We'll mention here just three other items for

emergency use which it might make you feel happier to have on board. The first is a ‘universal’ temporary fan belt which can be fitted without loosening any bolts,

Set of the main light bulbs Pocket tyre pressure gauge Spare fuses Distributor rotor, condenser and contact points Fan belt Roll of insulating tape Tin of radiator sealer and a hose bandage Extension light and lead with crocodile clips Clean lint-free cloth Breakdown triangle

Tow rope First aid box Spare set of keys (but not kept in the car) De-icer aerosol (during winter) This Handbook or Haynes Workshop Manual

A box like this is useful for keeping your emergency repairs kit together

23

IN AN EMERGENCY and which will enable you to get going again quickly in the event of a belt breakage, and to fit a proper replacement belt at your leisure. The second ‘get-you-home’ device is an ‘instant’ puncture repair in the form of an aerosol can. The

nozzle is screwed on to the tyre valve, and releases sealant to seal the leak, together with gas to reinflate the tyre. It’s suitable for tubed or tubeless tyres, and will at the very least allow you to drive to a garage without getting your hands dirty. Our third additional suggestion is a temporary windscreen. If you've ever suffered a shattered screen, you'll know what a nightmare it can be trying to drive the car, especially in bad weather. If you haven't, take our word for it! One of the roll-up type of polyester temporary screens is quick and easy to fit, leaves driving unaffected, and wipers and washers can be used normally. When not in use its thin container stows neatly in a corner of the boot or on the back shelf. It's not normally necessary to carry spare petrol in this country, but if you want to do so, use one of the latest type cans which are specially made for the purpose — they're much safer as well as being easier to pour from.

An ‘Instant Spare’ aerosol in use on a flat tyre

Jacking up and changing a wheel The jack supplied with the car is suitable for changing a wheel by the roadside, and that’s about all. If the car's to be jacked up for servicing or other work,

you'll need a stronger and more

reliable means

of

supporting it; for further information on this, refer to

Tools for the Job. All Allegro and Vanden Plas vehicles are equipped with scissor-type jacks, and two specially strengthened jacking points at the front and rear of the body sills. To begin the wheel changing operation, first apply the handbrake firmly and engage first or reverse gear; then find something to chock the wheels on the other side of the car. An old brick or block of wood is just the job, but unless you carry such a thing you may have to

improvise. If you can only find one, weigh up which way the car's likely to move if anything goes wrong; hopefully you'll find two, then one can be put each side

of a wheel. Before lifting, but with the jack in the correct position, remove the hub cap or trim plate. The makers provide a bit of bent iron for this job but a screwdriver blade can be used if you don’t mind taking off a bit of

/f you want to carry emergency petrol, use an approved safety can of the type shown here. The detachable 24 spout makes pouring easy, too

paint or chrome. Now use the wheel nut spanner to loosen each nut by about half a turn. Hopefully, they won't be excessively tight but if they haven't been

removed for a long time a bit of footpower on the spanner may be required.

IN AN EMERGENCY

An emergency windscreen is fitted in seconds and can save untold discomfort

The car can now be raised, but make sure it doesn't

place. Fit the spare wheel to the car and pinch up the

move and check that the chocks are still in position. Take off the wheel nuts and then the wheel.

The spare’s in the luggage compartment, on the left-hand side, and is held in position by a rubber strap

nuts in a crosswise order, then lower the car to the ground. Fully tighten the nuts now; you don’t have to stand on the spanner to do this, but make sure they're good and tight (if you're interested, the correct

and hook— take it out and put the defunct wheel in its

tightening torque is 46 Ibf ft).

The jack located in the nearside front jacking point

Tightening provided

the wheel

nuts

using the wheel

brace 25

IN AN EMERGENCY Finally fit the hub cap or trim plate by holding it in position and hitting it smartly with the ball of your hand. , If you're following the correct service procedures, the spare will have plenty of pressure in it; if necessary

let it down to the correct reading by pressing in the pin in the centre of the valve to release air, and checking with your pressure gauge. If it hasn't got enough pressure, make a mental note to keep it checked in future and drive carefully to the nearest air-line.

Typical jacking arrangements 1 Jack head 2 Jack head flange 3 Body flange 4 Locating tab 5 Bracket (not to be used as a jackingpoint) 6 Jacking point (front) 7 Locating hole 8 Hexagon head 9 Operating handle 10 Alternative hook-and-eye type

Always chock the wheels on opposite side before jacking

the

Spread the load under the foot of the jack with a block of wood or something similar

IN AN EMERGENCY

Towing and being towed Towing eyes are provided, as an integral part of the suspension tie-bar brakets, at the front of the vehicle only. The eyes at the rear of the body are for lashing purposes during transit and must never be used for towing. If towing has to be done in an emergency, use only the front eyes for attaching a rope. For automatic transmission models, refer to /n the Driving Seat.

Maintenance of lights Remember that a defective exterior light can be not only dangerous but also illegal. Carrying «spare bulbs will enable you to replace blown ones as they occur. A failed interior lamp or panel light bulb may be just a nuisance but most of them aren't particularly difficult to change. You may not carry a spare headlamp unit, but as these are perhaps the most important of the car's lights let’s deal with their replacement first.

pattern is badly adrift. Remember temporary adjustment.

though, this is a

Vanden Plas: Remove the two headlamp surround retaining screws. Pull the top of the surround away from the bonnet lock platform, and at the same time detach the surround from the two locating pegs on the body beneath the lamp. Three screws secure the lamp rim and, once these have been removed, the light unit can be withdrawn far enough to enable disconnection of the three-pin connector. Fitting a new light unit is a straightforward task, but remember to check that the four rubber pads are in

Headlight unit renewal Allegro models: Open the bonnet and remove the six screwssecuring the grille in position; lift away the grille. Remove the three screws holding the lamp rim and remove the rim. Carefully withdraw the light unit forward far enough to enable the three-pin plug to be disconnected. Fitting the new unit is straightforward, but make sure that the rubber pads are in their correct locations in the baseplate. With a new light unit you should have the alignment checked optically by a garage, although a temporary adjustment can be made by experimenting with the focussing screws if you find that the light

1

Grill retaining

2

screws Grille

3 4

Allegro headlight renewal 5 Headlight unit Rim screw 6 _~Connector Headlight rim

7 8

Rubber pad Base plate

IN AN EMERGENCY

8

7

6

5 aiiet

2

Vanden Plas headlight renewal 1

Headlamp surround retaining screw Headlamp surround Locating peg A WH Lamp rim retaining screw Lamp rim Headlight unit Three-pin connector Rubber pads DBANDA Base plate

HT87

On headlamps with a separate bulb, the wire clip is swung aside to permit bulb removal their correct locations in the baseplate. Temporary adjustment of the beam pattern can be carried out by experimenting with adjusting screws, but this should only be a stop-gap measure. Get the beams set on a special optical beam-setting unit as soon as possible.

Fog lamp bulb renewal (Vanden Plas) Remove the three screws securing the plinth to the body. Withdraw the plinth, complete with the lamp, upwards and forwards from the car. Fully slacken the beam-setting screw, then insert a screwdriver between the right-hand side of the lamp rim and the lamp body. Very carefully lever the light unit from the body. Unclip and withdraw the bulb from the rear of the 28 light unit. Separate the bulb cable at the connector.

1 2.

Typical beam setting adjustment screws Vertical plane adjusting screw Horizontal plane adjusting screw

When reassembling, note the notches on the bulb flange, which allow the bulb to be fitted in one position only. Also, ensure that the upper edge of the rim is over the lip on the lamp body and snap the rim into position over the spring catch on the lamp body. When refitting the assembled unit, ensure that the slots on the plinth engage the flange on the car body. Due to the fact that the beam-setting screw was loosened during disassembly, don’t forget to readjust it.

IN AN EMERGENCY

Vanden plas fog lamp bulb renewal 7

Beam setting

3

Plinth

4

Spring clip

2.

screw Plinth retaining screw

Front side models)

or flasher light bulb

renewal

5 6

Cable connector Bulb flange notches

7

Spring catch

8

Plinth slots

(all

Access to both the side light and direction indicator bulbs can be gained after the lens has been removed. Three screws hold the lens in position and, once the lens has been removed, the faulty bulb (which is of the bayonet type fixing) is simply pressed inwards and at the same time turned anti-clockwise until it pops out. The larger of the two bulbs is for the direction indicator. When refitting the lens, ensure that the sealing gasket's still correctly located.

Stop/tail or flasher light bulb renewal (all models) Access to these bulbs is from the luggage compartment. If a left-hand bulb’s faulty, the spare wheel will need to be removed. A slightly different arrangement is used on Estate models, where access to these bulbs can only be gained after the luggage compartment trim has been unclipped-from the body.

ae

Removing the lens indicator light bulbs

for access

z

to front side

and

Once you've got access to the bulbs, renewal is the same for all vehicles. The flashing indicator bulb’s fitted in the upper holder and the stop/tail lamp bulb in the lower. The latter bulb is of the double-filament type giving a marked increase in illumination when the brake pedal is depressed; this bulb has offset locating pins to ensure

correct

replacement.

The

indicator

bulb

has a plain bayonet-type fixing and can be replaced either way round. Once you've established which bulb is faulty, simply pull the bulb holder from its socket. Provided you remember that the stop/tail lamp bulb has offset pins and is fitted in the lower socket, bulb changing is quite straightforward.

29

IN AN EMERGENCY

Rear number models)

plate

lamp

bulb

renewal

(all

To gain access to this bulb, push in and at the same time turn the lens, to release it from retaining lugs on the base. Withdraw the lens and pull the bulb from its holder.

Brake failure warning (where applicable)

lamp

bulb

renewal

To reach this bulb, remove the lamp assembly from the panel by depressing the four retaining tongues and carefully levering it from the panel. Insert a small screwdriver through the two pivot holes in the holder, depress the pivot legs and remove the switch from its holder. Unscrew and remove the faulty bulb. Rear light cluster seen from the luggage compartment

A. Indicator bulb holder B. Stop/tail light bulb holder

:

Reversing lamp bulb renewal (Vanden Plas) Remove the lens retaining screws and clamping brackets

from

the

unit, and

remove

the

lens. The

bulb’s of the festoon type and is simply pulled from its location.

Interior light bulb renewal (all models) Squeeze

the

two

sides

of

the

plastic

lens

together until the lugs of the lens are clear of the sockets in the lamp base (on Vanden Plas vehicles, two screws must be removed). Withdraw the lens

and pull the festoon bulb from its holder.

7

Lens

1789)

Renewing a number plate bulb 2 Retaining lugs

3

Bulb

5

Soe

4

Vanden Plas reversing lamp bulb renewal Replacing

:

30

a brake failure warning

1

e Retaining tongues

3

2

Holder

4

lamp

bulb

9 e Pivot leg

Bulb

7

Securing screw

3 4

2

Clamping bracket

Lens Bulb

5

Rubber pad

IN AN EMERGENCY

Heated rear window switch warning light bulb renewal (Allegro, where fitted)

Heated rear window switch warning light bulb renewal (Vanden Plas)

Remove the four screws securing the heater cover in position and remove the cover. Using a small screwdriver, depress the tongues on the switch and

Insert a small screwdriver under the notch on both sides of the switch cap, and lever the cap from the switch. The bulb can then be unscrewed from its holder. After a replacement bulb has been fitted, simply press the cap back on to the switch.

at the same time lever the switch from the panel. With the switch withdrawn, pull the bulb holder from the back of the switch and withdraw the bulb.

Panel and warning light bulb renewal (Allegro mode!s) Note: In all cases, while working behind the instrument panel, detach the battery earth lead (negative) for safety’s sake. The warning and panel light bulbs are located in the positions indicated by arrows in the accompanying illustrations. To gain access to these bulbs, pull the instrument panel cowl rearwards and remove the four screws. Depress the release lever and disconnect the speedometer cable. Withdraw the instrument panel assembly. After removing the push-fit bulb holders, the bulbs may be withdrawn.

Panel lamp bulb renewal (Vanden Plas)

Renewing an interior light bulb 7

Lens lugs

2

Festoon bulb

The speedometer and instrument panel illumination lamps are in the positions indicated by arrows in the accompanying illustration. Before access to these bulbs can be gained, the small trim panel, which is on the underside of the facia on the driver's side, must be removed. Before going any further, disconnect

the battery earth (negative) lead. Now reach up behind the instrument panel and withdraw the required bulb holder. The bulb is simply unscrewed from its holder.

Replacing a heated rear window switch warning light bulb (Allegro)

Replacing a heated rear window switch warning light bulb (Vanden Plas) 71 2

Cap notch Cap

3

Rocker switch

4

Bulb

7

Heater cover screw

2 3

Heater cover Switch

4 5

Securing tongue Bulb holder

IN AN EMERGENCY

The panel and warning lamp bulbs (arrowed) on the four-dial instrument panel ~

The panel and warning lamp bulbs (arrowed) on the twin dial instrument panel

7 2.

Cowl Instrument panel

3

Panel retaining screw

4 5

2 3

Bulb holder Bulb

Cowl

4

Instrument panel

Panel retaining screw Speedometer cable release lever

5 6

Bulb holder Bulb

NG

A es

Vanden Plas speedometer and instrument pane! illumination lamps (positions arrowed)

7

Bulb holder

Warning Plas)

lamp

2

cluster bulb

7

Lens

2

Bulb

Bulb

renewal

(Vanden

If any of these bulbs fail, carefully lever the lens from the instrument panel, then unscrew the offending bulb.

Clock illumination lamp renewal (Vanden Plas)

32

Vanden Plas warning lamp cluster bulb replacement

First disconnect the battery earth (negative) lead, then remove the four screws to release the heater cover from the facia and the parcel tray. Now reach up behind the facia and push the clock out towards the passenger compartment. The illumination bulb can

now be removed

by pulling out the bulb holder and

unscrewing the bulb.

Fuses — location and renewal The main fuses are mounted in block form and located on the right-hand side of the bulkhead in the engine compartment. If any of the fuses blow due to a short circuit or similar trouble, trace the source of trouble and rectify before fitting a new fuse. The layout is shown in the illustration. The fuses simply press in and out of the clips.

IN AN EMERGENCY

Renewing the clock illumination bulb (Vanden Plas) 7

Heater cover

2

Heater cover

3

Clock

4

Bulb holder

5

Bulb

retaining screws

2 3

(Fuse rating 15 amp) All side, tail, panel and number plate lights. (Fuse rating 15 amp)

This is a spare position not used on rhd models. (Fuse rating 35 amp) The following units protected by this fuse operate only when the ignition is switched on: Windscreen wiper/washer switch Windscreen wiper motor Windscreen washer motor Flasher unit and flasher lights Stop lights Cooling fan relay and thermostat Automatic transmission quadrant light (if fitted) Heated rear screen and switch 5 (Fuse rating 15 amp) Heater motor and switch Spare fuses:

4

A typical fuse box. See text for identification

1 (Fuse rating 35 amp) The units protected by this fuse are: Interior light Horn Cigar lighter (if fitted) Split brake test switch and warning light (if fitted) Cooling fan motor and relay

Two spare fuses (6) are fitted to the centre of the fuse block. Line fuses: A line fuse is often fitted to protect individual units such as radio sets. Access to the fuse is gained by holding one end of the cylindrical tube, pushing in and twisting the other end. The fuse may be lifted out.

Save It! Do-it-yourself car servicing is all about money saving, whilst not forgetting the ever-important point of maintaining the highest standards of safety. In this Chapter we cover several points which should help reduce your motoring costs — or at least prevent them from increasing quite as fast as they otherwise might these days — without reducing your car's safety.

Tyres Without any doubt whatever, a radial ply tyre will give you much better value for money than a crossply because, although it will cost a bit more to buy, it will last a great deal longer. Remould tyres can give good service, but they have their limitations when used for family motoring; remould radials now have a more reliable reputation than they had when they first appeared on the market, but sometimes give a bit of trouble when trying to balance them. So, what have we learnt so far? Only that in the broadest terms the more you pay for your tyres, the better value for money you'll get. If you want the best in roadholding and tyre life, buy radials; if you want good tyre life but aren't quite so worried about roadholding under adverse conditions, buy crossplies; if you want a good runabout tyre, and aren't thinking of high speeds or long journeys, buy remould crossplies. Regraded tyres are sometimes available (they used to be know as remould quality or RQ); these are tyres which may have the very slightest of defects in the tread pattern or moulding, but are otherwise perfect. If you get the chance to buy these, buy them — to all intents and purposes they're as good as a new tyre. It's not generally realised that most major tyre manufacturers also produce tyres under a less well known name at a somewhat cheaper price. These are first class buys too — ask any tyre dealer. Talking of tyre dealers, it's worth mentioning that they're the people to go to if you're intent on saving 34 money (and who isn’t these days?). Unless there's a

UU

Cross-ply and Radial ply tyres

The difference in the construction of the two types of tyre gives them very different characteristics. The cross-ply (1) has a uniformly strong tread and wall bracing. This gives it better cushioning properties but allows some deformation on bad surfaces and cambers. The radial ply tyre (2) has a supple wall and a firmly braced tread, ensuring that the maximum area of tread is kept in contact with the road despite suspension angle changes and road camber effects. On no account should the two types of tyre be mixed on the same axle. (See the Weekly checks listed in Service Scene).

SAVE IT! ‘special offer’ going, the most expensive place to get your tyres will normally be your local garage. Now let's just briefly consider how to make tyres last. First, keep them inflated properly (see Filling

Station Facts for the correct pressures). Second, drive sensibly (i.e. no race-track starts or cornering). Third,

are good, it's safest to stay clear of them. There are plenty of good multigrade engine oils on the market and quite a few are available at sensible prices from the D-I-Y motoring and accessory shops. Unless circumstances should force you to, don’t buy oil in pint or half-litre cans.

This

is the most

make sure the wheels are balanced properly (a job fora garage or tyre specialist).

expensive way of buying, particularly if it’s from a filling station. The big 5-litre (they used to be one gallon)

Batteries

cans are adequate for most purposes, and contain just about the right amount for an engine oil change; an

Next to tyres, batteries are the most commonly found parts sold by specialists. A top quality battery may cost up to three times the price of the cheapest one that'll fit your car. Once again, price is related to quality, but isn’t necessarily directly proportional. A battery with a twelve month guarantee ought to last that long and a little more, but batteries always seem to fail at embarrassing or inconvenient times so it’s worthwhile getting something a little bit better. Many of the accessory shops and tyre dealers sell good quality batteries with two or three year guarantees. Buy one of these — it'll be worthwhile in the long run and still cost quite a bit less than the nearest ones around. And, if you look after it, it'll look after you, too.

Exhaust systems The average car gets through several exhaust systems in the course of its life, the actual number depending on the sort of journeys for which the car's used (lots of short journeys will mean condensation remaining inside the exhaust system and helping it to rust out more quickly). The best place to go when your Allegro or Vanden Plas needs a replacement exhaust (or maybe just part of the system) is one of the specialist ‘exhaust centres’ which have sprung up in recent years. They keep huge stocks to fit most mass-produced cars, and offer free fitting as well as discount prices on the parts themselves. You'll almost certainly show a worthwhile saving compared with getting your Leyland dealer to fit the exhaust (which will involve labour charges as well). If you're planning to keep your car for several years it would certainly be worth thinking about an exhaust system made from stainless steel. It'll normally cost you considerably more than an ordinary mild steel replacement, but on the other hand should last the remainder of the car's life. If you're interested, talk it over with one of the exhaust specialists — they're usually stockists of the stainless steel kind too.

extra can for topping-up

between

oil changes will

probably be required, particularly if your pride and joy happens to be a bit of an oil burner. Oil is also available in larger drums (which can be fitted with a tap) sometimes at an even bigger price saving. A telephone call or visit to nearby wholesalers may well prove worthwhile. Antifreeze is always cheaper if you go to the motoring shops, but bulk buying doesn’t normally apply because you never need to buy it in any real quantity. As for greases, brake fluid, etc, you'll save a little at the motoring shops but again you'll never need large quantities — just make sure that you buy something that’s good quality.

Fuel Your car's designed to run on a particular grade of fuel (star rating). Don’t buy fuel that’s of a higher rating than this, because you're wasting your money. On the other hand, if you buy lower rating fuel your engine performance (and probably your engine too) will suffer. If you are forced to buy inferior fuel, drive carefully until you can get the correct grade; in these circumstances it’s also beneficial to retard the ignition by a couple of degrees, but you've got the bother of resetting it again later.

SMITHS

FUEL CONSUMPTION

Lubricants and the like Good cheap engine oils are available, but because it's so difficult to find out which cheap ones

Smiths ‘Milemiser’ fuel economy gauge

35

SAVE IT!

Engine tuning The term is much misused; it simply means getting the best performance and economy (sometimes one at

the expense of the other) from the standard engine. You'll have a job to improve on the specifications and settings laid down by the manufacturers, so these must be your obvious guidelines. Different needles are available for the carburettor(s) if you're after a little more economy or performance (see Vita/ Statistics for the needle for your particular model). You might try one of the ‘sports’ type air filters; these are claimed to improve performance and economy, but there’s a slight increase in the noise level. Regular maintenance is the most important factor in keeping the engine in a good state oftune (e.g. spark plugs, distributor points, ignition timing, carburettor adjustments, valve clearances), but take care that things like over-adjusted brakes don’t mar this. If you can look after all these things, the rest’s up to you as the driver.

stop/start motoring from cold, than in many times this mileage of driving with a thoroughly warmed-up engine on long journeys. Automatic transmissions can be used carefully also. The relative position of the throttle pedal considerably affects the road speed at which the gears shift, and all this with the extra 50 Ib or so of additional transmission weight and the power losses which occur in the torque converter.

Roof racks The ever-faithful roof rack has proved a boon to so many motorists, for the extra holiday luggage, but how often do you see cars being driven around with an empty roof rack still attached? Many estimates have been made of the increase in fuel consumption caused by a roof rack, due to wind resistance, and the generally accepted figure is around 10%; with a loaded rack, this figure can be as high as 30%. The moral, then, is obvious, don’t use a roof rack unless you have to, and always remove it when it's not in use.

Driving habits With the car in a decent state of tune, there’s a lot that you, yourself, can do to improve the car's economy simply by your method of driving. It’s very tempting at times to do a ‘grand prix’ start from the traffic lights, or to change down and floor the accelerator just to show yourself that you can do it (nobody else cares anyway!). The art of economical driving is to use the pedals sensibly. There’s no need to race the engine and let the clutch slip violently when starting off; a moderate engine speed, and careful engagement of the clutch, will produce the same result with much greater economy, and only a little more slowly. Once moving, try keeping the throttle pedal in the same position while the car accelerates — you may need to ease it down just a little more but don’t press too hard — there’s just no need for it. The little time saved in accelerating will be outweighed by the additional time and cost involved the next time you fill up with petrol. Changing through the gears should be done in just the same way, using the accelerator pedal with care. When you have to change down, there’s no need to rev your engine — this is another fuel waster. Similarly, ‘blipping’ the throttle pedal while impatiently waiting for the lights to turn green is using unneccessary fuel. Even in warm weather you'll need to use the choke to start a cold engine. The secret, though, is to push in the knob as soon as possible; experiment to see how soon it can be done — you may surprise yourself. Excessive use of the choke not only affects fuel economy, but results in unburnt mixture getting into

the oil, and excessive engine wear. Considerably more 36 engine

wear

occurs

in a few

hundred

miles

of

Insurance Like some of the other things that we've discussed, the service you're going to get from your insurance company will be related to the cost of the cover obtained. A cheap policy's good until you need to make a claim, and then the sort of snags you're going to come across are ‘How do | get hold of an assessor to inspect the damage?’ or ‘How will it affect my No Claims Bonus?’ There are one or two legitimate ways of reducing the policy premium, perhaps by insuring for ‘owner

driver only’, ‘two named drivers’, or an agreement to pay the first £20 or so of any claim. Many large companies have a discount scheme for their employees if they use the same insurance company; this also applies to bank and Civil Service employees. You may also get a better bargain by insuring through one of the Motoring Associations if you're a member. What it all adds up to is: (1) Insure well; (2) See

what you can get in the way of discounts; and (3) Find out exactly what you're covered for.

Buying spare parts Apart from the oils and greases which you're going to need, it won't be long before you have to buy a few bits and pieces to keep things running smoothly. Please do remember to clean up any parts which are traded-in on an exchange basis (e.g. brake shoes) and, wherever possible, check that any replacement parts look the same as the old one, either by direct comparison if this can be done, or by reference to any

SAVE IT! of the illustrations in the appropriate Section of this book. Spare parts and accessories are available from many sources, but the following should act as a good guide when they're required.

Motor factors Good factors will stock all the more important components of the engine, gearbox, suspension and braking systems, and often provide guaranteed parts on an exchange basis. They're particularly useful to the more advanced do-it-yourself motorist.

Officially appointed Leyland garages Although Leyland dealers should be able to supply just about everything for your car, it's generally true to say that the prices may be higher than you need pay.

Other garages In recent years the big British car manufacturers have introduced a replacement parts scheme whereby they market parts for each others’ cars under trade names such as Mopar, Unipart and Motorcraft. Though you'll pay the same sort of prices for any of these parts ranges, you may well find that your local Chrysler or Ford dealer can supply you with guaranteed parts for your Leyland car, and that can’t be a bad thing.

Vehicle identification numbers When obtaining spare parts (and sometimes accessories), the very least you must know is the model and year of manufacture of your car. For many items this is all you need to know, but there will soon come a time when you're asked for the engine number or commission number (which you'd always meant to make a note of but just hadn't got round to!). Make a note of these now, in your diary or inside the back cover of this book. The numbers you're likely to need are:

Commission number Located on a plate mounted on the right-hand side of the bonnet lock platform.

Accessory shops

Car number

These are usually the best places to get items like contact breaker points, oil filters, brake shoes and pads, spark plugs, light bulbs, fan belts, lubricants, touch-up paints etc. — the very things you're going to need for the general servicing of the car. They also sell general accessories and charge lower prices but, what's equally important, they have convenient opening hours and can often be found not too far from home.

Located on a plate mounted on the right-hand side of the bonnet lock platform.

Engine number Stamped on the cylinder block or on a metal plate secured to the cylinder block between the ignition coil and the distributor.

Body number Stamped on a plate fixed to the left-hand side of the bonnet lock platform.

FRONT SEAT BELT At WITH SPECN

Location of engine number

The car number and (top of picture) body number are on the bonnet lock panel

Vital Statistics You're going to need to know most of the information that follows, as applicable to your particular model, at some time or other (even if it's only to win a bet in the pub!). Let’s go in head first then, starting with the engine...

ENGINE Type designation Austin Austin Austin Austin

Allegro Allegro Allegro Allegro

1100 1300 and Vanden 1750

Plas 1500

10H 12H 14H 7k

Type

1100 and 1300

1500 and 1750

4-cylinder, 4-stroke, water-cooled, overhead valve, in-line, transversely mounted. 4-cylinder, 4-stroke, water-cooled, overhead camshaft, in-line, transversely mounted.

Cubic capacity ‘1100’

‘1300’ “1500' 1750:

1098 127 1485 1748

cc 58ec cc cc

Bore and Stroke

Bore 1100 1300 1500 1750

2.543 in. (64.58 mm) 2.78 in. (70.61 mm) 3.0 in. (76.2 mm) 3.0 in. (76.2 mm)

Compression ratio 1100 1300 1500 1750 1750 HL and Sport

Compression pressure 1100 1300

165 psi (11.55 kgf/cm?) 175 psi (12.25 kgf/cm’) -

1500180 psi (12.60 kgf/cm?) 1750

38

1750 HL and Sport

180 psi (12.60 kgf/cm?) 190 psi (13.30 kgf/cm?)

Stroke 3.29 3.20 3.20 3.77

in. in. in. in.

(83.73 (81.28 (81.28 (95.75

mm.) mm) mm) mm)

VITAL STATISTICS

Firing order All models

1-3-4-2 (No. 1 cylinder at left-hand end)

Engine idle speed Refer to Fuel System data

Valve clearances (cold) 1100 and 1300 1500 and 1750

0.012 in(0.31 mm) inlet and exhaust 0.016 to 0.018 in(0.40 to 0.46 mm) inlet 0.020 to 0.022 in(0.51 to 0.56 mm) exhaust

1750

HL and Sport

0.014 to 0.016 in(0.35 to 0.40 mm) inlet 0.017 to 0.019 in(0.43 to 0.48 mm) exhaust

Gross BHP 1100

49 at 5250 rev/min 58.7 at 5300 rev/min 72 at 5500 rev/min 80 at 5000 rev/min

1300 1500 1750

Gross torque 1100 1300

59.6 68.5 79.5 1000

1500

1750

LUBRICATION

Ibf ft at 2450 Ibf ft at 3000 Ibf ft at 3250 Ibf ft at 2600

rev/min rev/min rev/min rev/min

SYSTEM

Note: The engine oil also lubricates the transmission.

Oil pump type

Eccentric rotor or vane

Oil pressure

Idling Running

15 to 25 psi (1.05 to 1.75 kgf/cm?) 30 to 60 psi (2.10 to 4.20 kgf/cm?)

Oil filter

Full-flow type

Oil type

20W-50

Sump capacity

Total, including filter: 8/2 pints (4.8 litres) manual gearbox 13 pints (7.3 litres) automatic transmission 9% pints (5.5 litres) manual gearbox 16 pints (9.0 litres) automatic transmission

1100 and 1300

1500 and 1750

Multigrade

COOLING SYSTEM System type

Closed, pressurized with expansion tank

Fan

Electrical 4 blade, thermostatically controlled |

Radiator

Front mounted two row ‘R’ type

System capacity (including heater): 1100 and 1300

1500 and 1750

7% pints (4.2 litres) 11% pints (6.5 litres)

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