Haynes BLMC 1100 and 1300 1962 to 1974 Owners Handbook/Servicing Manual 0856963798, 9780856963797

Citation preview

BLMC

1100: 1300

Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2023 with funding from Kahle/Austin Foundation

httos://archive.org/details/blmc11001300allm0000ward

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BLMC

T1100 21800 All models 1962 to 1974

Owners | Handbook/Servicing Guide by P Ward

460305 352

Acknowledgements Thanks are due to many the

author

this

and

and

people for assistance given to

publishers

numerous

during

the

publications.

preparation

Not

least

of

among

these are: Fred Warren, Graham

Thompson,

and

loaned

Ken

allowed

Blair, access

who

Mr and Mrs R Dunn,

original

to their cars; Castrol

handbooks

and

Ltd for advice on

lubrication; and Moff Motors of Castle Cary. Brian

Horsfall

maintenance

carried

out

operations

the

in our

various

service

workshops,

photographs were taken by Leon Martindale of the Master Photographers’

and

and the

(a member

Association). The layout

of the pages was planned by Lee Saunders.

A book in the Haynes Owner's Handbook/Servicing Guide Series Edited by Robin Wager

©

Haynes Publishing Group 1978

Published

Group,

ISBN

and

printed

Sparkford,

O 85696

379

by

Yeovil,

8

the

Haynes

Somerset

Publishing

BA22

7JJ

Contents What’s In It For You?

5

About this Handbook

The 1100 & 1300 Family Main Production

Road Test Data Performance

7

dates and changes

11

figures from Autocar

In the Driving Seat

12

Instruments, controls, layout

Filling Station Facts

19

Garage forecourt guide to tyre pressures etc.

QUiCK-CHECK

CHART

20

Fill-up data at-a-glance

In an Emergency Get-you-home

21

kit, wheel. changing, towing, light bulb renewal

Save It!

on

Cutting motoring costs - safely

Vital Statistics Technical

32

data on all models

Tools For The Job

46

Getting equipped - what to buy

Service Scene

49

What to do, when, and how

Body Beautiful

Ad

Cleaning and renovating the car

The Personal Touch

82

Adding accessories

Troubleshooting

94

Charts to help when things go wrong

Conversion Chart Factors

106

‘What's that in pounds per square inch ...?’

Index

108

SOW OOLL

uoojes

What's in it for You? Whether you've bought this book yourself or had it given to you,

the idea was probably the same in either

case - to help you get the best out of your BLMC or

1300

Vanden

Austin,

Morris,

Plas, saloon

MG,

Riley,

1100

Wolseley

or estate, GT or standard

or

model,

and

perhaps to make your motoring a bit less of a drain on your hard-earned cash at the same time.

Garage

labour

charges

hourly

rate

your

own

main

part of any

can

easily

of pay,

servicing

be several

and

usually

bill; we'll

times

form

help you

the

avoid

them by carrying out the routine services yourself. Even if you don’t want to do the regular servicing, and

prefer to leave it to your Leyland dealer, there are some things you should check regularly just to make sure that your car’s not a danger to you or to anyone

else on the road; we tell you what they are. If you're

(whether properly) described

can

about

to start doing your

to cut costs we

own

servicing

or to be sure that it’s done

think

you'll

find

give an easy-to-follow

the

procedures

to what of spending a few hours

be a very satisfying way

introduction

of your spare time. We've

some

included

money

when

some

tips

that

should

save

you

buying replacement parts and even

while you're driving; there’s a chapter on cleaning and renovating your car, and another on fitting accessories.

Apart needs

from

to know

the

things

every

a broken

headlamp,

shooter

Charts

to

cover

the

that

can

crop

up

problems

1100/1300

to deal with mishaps we've

owner

like a puncture or

put together some Trouble-

more with

likely even

of

the

the most

carefully maintained car sooner or later. There’s also a set of comprehensive alphabetical

conversion

index

to

tables and a help you find

your way round the book. ; If the bug gets you, and you’re keen to tackle some of

the

more

advanced

you'll

need

our

BLMC

1100/1300

repair jobs on

Owner’s

(No.

Workshop

260)

which

your

Manual

car, then

for

the

gives a step-by-

step guide to all the repair and overhaul tasks on these cars, with plenty of illustrations to make things even clearer.

5

S) & 8 S< : Se S

s

se)™ S

L)

The

Lo

1100 & 1300 Family

When they unveiled the Morris 1100 in August 1962, the British Motor Corporation (as they then were) offered the average motorist not only a reliable, comfortable everyday car but one with some advanced design features too. Besides being an enlarged version of the Mini, (which only a few years previously had astonished everyone by appearing with its engine mounted transversely under the stubby bonnet, instead of in line with the car as usual), the 1100 also sported the new Moulton Hydrolastic suspension, designed to maintain stability and comfort without

the use of normal springs. The Morris was gradually followed

by the MG, Austin, Vanden

shape of the range altered very little over under the bonnets.

Plas, Wolseley

its twelve years of production.

and Riley variants, and the basic

But there were changes inside the cars and

At the 1967 Motor Show the Mark I] models were introduced; these had a slight rounding-off of

the rear light clusters and a restyled interior, but more important changes were a modified all-synchromesh gearbox and the option of the 1300 engine. Towards the end of 1971 the Mark II! models appeared, differing mainly in further detailed styling changes. Full mechanica! details are given in Vita/ Statistics, but here in a nutshell is the life story of the range.

Morris

1100

August 1962 October

1964

October

1965

Model introduced. -

Coil spring clutch superseded by diaphragm spring

type. March

Automatic transmission available.

1966

October

Traveller introduced.

1967

Mk

Il model

introduced. Restyled rear lights, front

grille and interior.

October 1968

Modified all-synchromesh gearbox.

September

Model

Austin

1971

discontinued.

1100

September

1963 to October

1968

Model ran concurrently with Morris

1100, and had

similar modifications.

October

1971

Mk Ill model introduced. Restyled front grille and interior.

1974

MG

Model

discontinued.

1100 October

1962 to October

1968

Model ran concurrently with Morris 1100, and had similar modifications. All models had twin SU

carburettors.

A 1275 cc engine was available from

June 1967. September

1971

Model discontinued.

Wolseley

1300 Saloon

: NS PACER

NEN

Austin

1300 GT

g

THE 1100/1300 FAMILY

Riley Kestrel 1100 September

1965 to January

1968

Model ran concurrently with MG

1100, and had

similar modifications.

Wolseley 1100 September

1965 to January

1968

Model ran concurrently with MG

1100, and had

similar modifications.

Vanden

Plas 1100

October

1963 to October

1968

Model

ran concurrently with Morris 1100, but more

luxuriously appointed and with twin-carburettor.

1275 cc engine available from June 1967.

Morris

1300

October

1967

Model introduced; generally similar to 1100 models.

October

1969

GT model added to range, with twin SU carburettors,

servo assisted front brakes and lowered suspension; re-styled interior with tachometer; individual paint

September

1971

scheme and external finish. Mk Ill traveller introduced with re-styled front grille and interior. Other models discontinued. Model discontinued.

1974

Austin 1300 October

1967 to August 1971

September

1971

Model

ran concurrently with Morris

1300, and had

similar specifications. Mk III model introduced. Re-styled front grille and interior.

Model discontinued.

1974

MG 1300 June

Model

1967

October

1967

October

1968

introduced.

Mk Il model introduced. Re-styled rear lights. Automatic transmission available. Mk II introduced. More powerful engine with twin SU carburettors; new close-ratio gearbox.

September

1971

Model discontinued.

Riley Kestrel 1300 June

1967 to July 1969

Model

ran concurrently with MG

similar modifications.

1300, and had

THE

1100/1300

FAMILY

The engine/transmission unit is installed transversely

Wolseley 1300 June

1967 to September

1971

Model

ran concurrently

with MG

1300, and had

similar modifications.

1974

Model

discontinued.

June 1967

Model

introduced; generally similar to

October 1967

Modified all-synchromesh gearbox.

1974

Model discontinued.

Vanden

10

Plas 1300 1100 models.

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11

In the Driving Seat Having found

out a few details of production

history, let’s have a look at some

of the more

important

things

you'll need to know from the driving seat. Fortunately, the layout of the 1100 and 1300 models is pretty straightforward for the experienced motorist, but a little information on one or two things may be useful if you're not familiar with the car.

Instruments and Controls The

accompanying

instrument

panel

layouts

during the production explanatory,

the engine

illustrations used

run.

show

on the various

In general,

they

but the following points may

is idling, but

typical

speed

models

probably got a problem pretty urgent attention.

are self-

above

idling.

should go out at any

If this doesn’t

on

your

engine

happen,

you've

hands which

needs

be useful if

you've recently acquired a model or are borrowing one

Oil pressure warning light This light should

temporarily.

only be on when

the ignition is

switched on, and should go out as soon as the engine is

Ignition warning light This

driver though

serves

the

dual

that the ignition the engine

may

running. purpose

of

reminding

circuit is switched not

acting as a no-charge indicator.

be

running),

on

the

(even

as well

as

It should light up when

the ignition is switched on, and may also be on when

Austin Ignition warning light Oil pressure warning light Water temperature gauge Speedometer

Fuel gauge

If it doesn’t go out within a second

or so of

Start-up, it suggests a considerable degree of wear exists somewhere in the engine mechanism, or (less

likely)

that

faults

can

problems

some be

of the oilways

lived

with

for

a

are blocked. while,

in the not too distant future!

but

These expect

If the warning

1100 Mk | dash panel!

Main-beam warning light Windscreen washer control Light switch

Ignition/starter switch Choke control

Mileage indicator Lubrication warning light Windscreen wiper switch Panel light switch

Morris

1100 Mk | dash panel

15

Choke control

!gnition/starter switch Light switch

Panel light switch Windshield washer control! Windshield wiper switch Fuel gauge ONADAWN Direction indicator warning

9 10 11 12 13 14

light Lubrication warning light Speedometer Main-beam warning light

©® &

OmOnO

Mileage indicator Ignition warning light Direction indicator warning

light 15 Water temperature gauge

Princess 1100 dash panel

Main-beam warning light Lubrication warning light Direction indicator warning light Water temperature gauge Speedometer Fuel gauge Ammeter Oil pressure gauge Trip reset control

710 Total mileage indicator 171 Trip mileage indicator 12 Windshield wiper /washer

Gn g (radeas eevee 13. 14

switch

13 Choke control

14 Ignition/starter switch 15 Panel light switch 16 Ignition warning light 17 Heated rear window switch 18 Lighting switch 19 Fog light switch 20 Fog light switch 21 Clock

2

Morris 1300 Mk II! Traveller dash panel Speedometer Main beam warning light Temperature gauge Direction indicator warning light Light switch Wiper switch Facia vent Windscreen washer switch Heated rear window warning light 10 Heated rear window switch 11 Brake pressure warning

12 13 14 15 16

light Hazard warning light Hazard warning switch Fuel gauge Oil pressure warning light Ignition warning light

Ie S241

10-9

13

MG

1300 Mk I! dash layout

Speedometer

(17 early cars) Ignition warning light 13.

Heated rear window switch

Direction indicator warning lights Oj! pressure gauge Temperature gauge

Main beam warning light Light switch Mileage recorder

Choke control Ignition/starter switch Panel light switch

Tachometer

(rev counter)

(7 early cars) Heated back-light warning light

714 15 16

Fuel gauge

17

Wiper switch

18

Windscreen

washer contro/

Bonnet release catch and stay on late Morris 1300

1

Lock release

3

Stay

2

Safety catch

4

Clip

1

Safety catch

5

Bonnet release catch and stay on MG

2

Stay release

Support bracket

1300

The bonnet release lever B is shown inset.

IN THE DRIVING light comes engine more

SEAT

on while you're travelling, switch off the

immediately,

it could

be

a duff

switch,

but

likely you're out of oil and that’s serious. If you

can’t find the cause, get expert assistance - but don’t drive the car.

Oi! filter warning light Many

models

is linked

housing.

up

have an oil filter warning light which

to

a pressure

switch

on

the

oil

filter

Its job is to tell you that the oil flow through

the filter is restricted,

are renewed at the normally operate.

but provided

correct

the filter and oil

intervals

it should.

not

Switches Most

rocker

switches

type

lever

type

models the

are

toggle

switch

on

the

this did nothing

direction

steering

more

indicators,

in

indicators, main

(earlier

later but

cars. also

column.

technical

cars)

or

mysterious On

early

Typical lock mechanisms Left Right

-

than operate

but the marvels

engineering have produced - found

type

(later cars), but there is one

(Vanden Plas 1100 shown)

Childproof rear lock setting catch (arrowed) Locking action U Unlock Ee LOCK

of modern

the ‘multi-function’ switch

This

not

only

to

work

manages

and dipped beams, the headlight

operates the

the

headlight

flasher and the

horn.

Steering column lock The

steering

models

column

is incorporated

Three

lock

introduced

on

later

in the ignition/starter switch.

basic types were fitted, and they all do the same

job, the only difference being the method of locking. With the early type, just turn the key to ‘Garage’. Where there’s a push button, press it in then turn the key to ‘O’ and withdraw it; alternatively, press the key

inwards

then

turn

to

‘O’

and

withdraw

it. When

Rear seat fold-down catches on Traveller/Countryman

1

Backrest, 2 Cushion (pulled forward), 3 Cushion support (lowered), 4 Locating pins

Typical seat adjusters Left:

1 2

Seat release lever Seat adjustment on frame.

On some models this is on the floor

Right: Backrest adjuster on some models

15

IN THE DRIVING

SEAT

Typical heating contro! pane! 1

Air distribution lever,

2 Temperature control,

3 Blower switch

On some models ‘eyeball’ air outlets or swivelling vents are positioned at each end of the dash panel. releasing the lock, turn the steering wheel a little from - this relieves the strain on the key and lock plunger. One other point worth mentioning is

side-to-side that

‘Halt’

vehicle’s

and

to

be

‘I’ should

always

be

towed,

prevent

the steering

to

selected

if the from

locking. If you should ever have the misfortune to lose your steering you'll

lock find

For security barrels,

key,

or any

yourself

with

reasons

so

unless

never

be able

know

the numbers

replacements

door

key

a problem

for that on

your

there are no numbers

you

to buy

know

the

key

hands.

on the lock

number

a replacement.

matter,

Even

you'll

if you

do

they may not be ‘over the counter’

so, to reduce

problems

to a minimum,

the very least you can do is to record the key numbers Multi-purpose steering column switch 71

Left-hand indicator.

2

Right-hand indicators

3

Main beam

4 5

Headlight flash Horn

somewhere.

Automatic transmission An

was

Automotive

available

Products

from

favour with many

October

automatic

1965,

transmission

and

has

found

drivers. Its only slight drawback

is a

rather sluggish behaviour when cold, but otherwise it’s not known

to be a problem item.

The

transmission

converter

incorporates

a

fluid

torque

(an automatic clutch linking the drive from

engine to gearbox)

and a hydraulically-operated, four-

speed

gearbox.

and

reverse

The gears as with a normal a clutch), or will

can

either be gearbox (but change auto-

selected without

manually operating

matically

with engine speed and load, according to the

selector lever position.

The selector positions are:

R - reverse, N - neutral,

1 - 1st gear, 2 - 2nd gear, 3 - 3rd gear, 4 - 4th gear (not Early type steering lock

16

Garage Halt Start

-

Fahrt

:

Steering locked Ignition off, steering unlocked Engine starting position Ignition on

applicable to all models) and D - normal automatic driving. A reverse stop in the selector quadrant prevents reverse gear being selected when travelling

forward. An interlock switch is fitted which ensures that the engine can only be started with ‘N’ selected.

IN THE DRIVING SEAT

Driving controls - typical Clutch pedal Brake pedal Accelerator pedal Gearshift lever Handbrake lever Steering column switch AaAwWY™ Throttle pedal positions with automatic transmission

1 3

Low speed up-changes, 2 High speed up-changes, Kickdown position

Normal driving

is selected

For all normal day-to-day driving, ‘D’ can be used. When selecting, the engine should be idling with the handbrake on; apply the footbrake, select D, release the footbrake then press the accelerator pedal to travel forward. If the engine is cold, or running at a higherthan-idling speed, there may be a slight jerk when engaging ‘D’; also, if the engine is cold, there may be a slight delay in engagement. The road speeds at which the gears change depend to some extent on your right foot. When accelerating normally, light pedal pressure will give gear changes at relatively low road speeds, whereas heavy pedal pressure will give gear changes at much higher road

provided that you're not travelling at too high a speed, the transmission will automatically downshift to give improved acceleration.

speeds. As with normal transmissions, the heavy right foot is associated with poorer fuel economy although you get the improved performance. For

increased

performance,

overtaking, a ‘kickdown’

for

example

when

facility is incorporated. This

by

flooring

the

accelerator

pedal

and,

Manual gear selection Selection of gears when starting is made in the same way as when using the ‘D’ range, 2, 3 and 4 being used in succession as the car speed increases.

Precautions It's not possible to overspeed the automatic transmission when in the ‘D’ range, but, if a little care isn’t taken when selecting manually, overspeeding can occur which may cause damage to the engine or transmission, or may cause a dangerous deceleration. Broadly speaking, in the 1300 never change down

from 4 to 3 at speeds above 60 mph 1100’s) or from 3 to 2 above 45 mph 1100's).

(50 mph for (40 mph for

17

IN THE

DRIVING

SEAT

Contro/ techniques

Being

Creep:

This will occur

engine

is idling, once

be useful when

when

a gear is engaged and the

the brakes

responsive

will warm

up and be

if the car is driven in ‘Manual

few hundred yards before ‘D’ is se! ted. Steep gradients: When going downhill,

2’ for a

is fully operational,

is released and ‘N’ is selected.

Don’t allow

than 20 mph

or for any

greater distance than is absolutely necessary.

more

engine

Emergency model,

there

the

on this gear and there will be no

engine braking at all. For hill climbing, the transmission will change down automatically; there is no

need to select 1. Towing: Use only the ‘D’ range to prevent the torque converter from being overloaded.

18

handbrake

the car to be towed at more

braking can be obtained if 2 is selected. Don’t use 1, as

is a freewheel

\|f the transmission

the ignition is off (but the steering not locked!), the

manoeuvring in confined spaces.

Winter starting: The transmission more

are released, and can

towed:

check that the engine oil level is up to the ‘Full’ mark on the dipstick (see Weekly Servicing). Make sure that

starting:

so don’t

only

parallel your own

solution

using

You can't tow-start an automatic

bother

to try!

is to

jumper

connect

cables,

battery.

Maintenance: Refer to Weekly Servicing.

or

If your up

to

battery’s flat,

another

charge

one

in

or renew

Filling Station Facts Forgetting about the actual servicing and mechanical things which

are so simple they're

maintenance of your car for the time being, there are some

likely to get overlooked;

but they’re not only an important part of the mainten-

ance of your car - they’ré vital for its safety and reliability too. Three of these items - tyres, oil and water - you can check if necessary whenever you visit a petrol station. We've set out overleaf the absolute minimum of information you need to know right from the very first day you drive an 1100 or 1300. Remember that tyre pressures can only be checked accurately when the tyres are cold. Any tyre that’s travelled more

than a mile or so will show a pressure increase of several pounds per square inch (psi) - maybe more than 5 psi

after a longer run. So a certain amount of ‘guestimation’ comes into checking tyres if they’re warm. Since

the pressures

won't

increase

for any

reason

other

than heat, the least you can do is to ensure

that the

pressures in the two front tyres are equal, bearing in mind that they may be a bit above those shown in the table. (The same applies to the two back tyres, but remember that their pressure should be different from the front). If one tyre of a pair has a low pressure when hot, bring it up to the pressure of the other at the same end of the car; if they’re both below the recommended cold pressure although warm, the safest thing to do is to bring them up to about 3 psi above it, to allow for cooling.

Engine oi! dipstick readings

Adding engine oil

19

QUICK-CHECK CHART TYRE PRESSURES Tyre size

Recommended pressure (psi) when cold

Front

Rear

5.50 - 12 Crossply

28

24°

155 - 12 Radial (except Michelin ZX)

32

28

155 - 12 Radial (Michelin ZX only)

23

26.5

* 26 psi for Countryman/Traveller when fully laden.

** 29 psi for Countryman/Traveller when fully laden.

FUEL OCTANE

RATING

Austin and Morris 1100 models with manual transmission

3 Star

All other models

4 Star

FUEL TANK CAPACITY All models

ENGINE

8 gallons.

OL TYPE

All models

20W-50 Multigrade.

QUANTITY OF OIL REQUIRED TO BRING DIPSTICK All models

LEVEL FROM M/N TO MAX ON 1% pt approx.

bf

Min. 90 octane

+

|Min. 94 octane

| |

*

Elina Octane rating symbols.

Use the correct one for

your car

=

In an Emergency There’s been no car invented yet that can guarantee you a safe and reliable journey from A to B every day of your life. Be it due to a breakdown or a puncture, the day will come when your trusty transport requires a bit of roadside attention - usually at the most inconvenient time. in this Handbook you'll find a wealth of information which should certainly minimise the possibility of a breakdown but, although we hope it won't be very often, the odd thing is bound to go wrong from time to time. The Troubleshooter Section should help to trace the cause of an unexpected problem, but it’s not much good knowing what's wrong if you've nothing to put it right with, or needing to change a wheel in the dark when you haven't a clue how the jack works. A few timely minutes spent reading through this Chapter now could save your time and temper later on!

Spares and repair kit The

basic

‘tools’

supplied

Clean lint-free cloth with

the car won’t

get

you very far if you should have the misfortune of a roadside breakdown. An additional tool kit is available and contains about the minimum you're likely to need. This tool kit will also be useful for many of the servicing jobs, but can only be regarded as a minimum - for further information see Too/s for the Job. A few items which can be used or fitted without too much bother at the roadside should also be carried. These can prove invaluable in getting you out of trouble on the odd occasion when they might be needed. The sort of things you should carry are:

This Handbook

The list could of course be expanded indefinitely for example, you might like to have a set of spare cooling system hoses instead of just a hose bandage. It's up to you to decide what you're likely to use in a roadside situation. So

far

as

mentioning

the

fan

that

you

belt can

is concerned, buy

an

it’s wortti

emergency

type

which doesn’t require any bolts to be loosened to fit it and which will suit a wide variety of cars. With one of these in the car, you can get on your way quickly and fit a proper replacement belt at your leisure.

Spark plug, properly cleaned and gapped H.T. lead and plug cap - one that will reach

the

Jacking up and changing a wheel The

furthest plug from the distributor

jack

supplied

with

the

car

is suitable

for

Set of light bulbs

changing a wheel

Tyre valve core and pocket pressure gauge

If the car’s to be jacked up for servicing or other work, you'll need a stronger and more reliable means of

Fuses Distributor rotor, condenser and contact set Fan belt

by the roadside, and that’s about all.

supporting it; for further Tools for the Job. Early

Roll of insulating tape

models

pedestal this type,

Spare set of keys (but not in the car)

but

Extension light and lead with crocodile clips Windscreen de-icer aerosol! (during winter months) Breakdown triangle

pointing jacks

a central

always

inserted

were

jack with

Tin of radiator sealer and a hose repair bandage First aid box and manual

make

outwards

information equipped

a reversible jacking

sure

with

ratchet

point

that

after

the

the

on

where

there's

top

still the

a screw-type

handle.

With

the car is used,

lifting

in the jacking point. With

(even

on this, refer to ;

of

arm

the

jack’s

has

been

later, scissor-type

old-type

jacking

21

The later type jack in use


oe

pet eee ge right Always chock the wheels on the opposite side before jacking

22

Spread the load under the foot of the jack with a block of wood or something similar

oe

IN AN EMERGENCY 4

point), the jack can

be positioned anywhere along the

body sill flange. To begin the wheel

changing

operation, first apply

the handbrake firmly and engage first or reverse gear; then find something to chock the wheels on the other side. of the car. An old brick or block of wood the job, but have

unless

to improvise.

which

way

wrong;

in position

and

hitting it smartly with the ball of your

hand.

you

carry

If you

can

a thing

you

may

only find one, weigh up

following

the correct

enough

pressure,

make

a

checked

in future

and

drive

you'll find two, then one can be put

air-line.

likely

to move

if anything

service

procedures,

let it down to the correct reading by pressing in the pin in the centre of the valve to release air, and checking with your pressure gauge. If it hasn’t got

goes

the car's

hopefully

such

is just

If you're

the spare will have plenty of pressure in it; if necessary

mental

note

carefully

to

keep

to

the

at the front

and

it

nearest

each side of a wheel. Before

lifting,

position, makers

remove provide

but

with

the

hub

the

jack

cap

a bit of bent

or

iron

in the trim

correct

plate.

The

for this job but a

screwdriver blade can be used if you don't mind taking off a bit of paint or chrome.

Now

spanner

by

to

Hopefully,

haven't

loosen

each

they won't

been

nut

use the wheel about

be excessively

removed

for

a

half

nut

a turn.

tight but if they

long

time

a

bit

of

footpower on the spanner may be required.

The car can now be raised, but make sure it doesn’t move

and

check

that

the chocks

are still in position.

Towing and being towed Towing

most attached cars

eyes are

models, either

have

two

provided

just to

under

the

front

the

subframe

and

rear,

bumpers. or

floor

others

one

rear on

They're pan;

some

front

and

rear; also they may be on the left or right-hand side. If towing

has to be done

in an emergency,

points

for

a

attaching

rope.

For

use only these

automatic

trans-

mission models, refer to /n The Driving Seat.

Take off the wheel nuts and then the wheel. The

spare’'s

beneath

simply

lifts up. A wing nut, or knurled

secure

the

wheel

in its place.

- take

held

luggage

which

One

is either

the

floor,

by

two

compartment turnbuckles

or

it out and put the punctured

Fit the spare

wheel

Maintenance of Lights Remember

nut, and plate to

the car

and

only

bulbs

be

that a defective

dangerous

will enable

you

exterior

to replace

blown

ones as they

make sure they're good and tight (if you're interested, the correct tightening torque is 42 Ib f ft).

headlamp important replacement

change. of

but the

You as

car’s

or panel

not spare

be just a nuisance but most of them aren't particularly unit,

lamp

Carrying

car to the ground. Fully tighten the nuts now; you don't have to stand on the spanner to do this, but

to

interior

light can

illegel.

occur.

difficult

failed

is also

pinch up the nuts in a crosswise order, then lower the

Finally fit the hub cap or trim plate by holding it

A

but

may

these lights

not are

light bulb

carry

perhaps

let's

deal

may

a

spare

the

most

with

their

first.

Headlight adjustment screws (arrowed)

23

\ i |%

|

Tithe

Removing headlamp rim screw

24

Rear light lens on Mk II and Mk III Saloons

Removing a lamp unit retaining screw

IN AN EMERGENCY

Headlight unit renewal Loosen the retaining screw at the bottom of the headlight rim; ease the bottom of the rim forwards and lift the complete rim up and away. Take off the rubber

dust

excluder,

then

remove

the

inner

rim

screws (don’t touch the focussing screws) and draw the light unit forward so that the electrical connector can be removed. Fitting the new unit is straightforward, but make sure that it’s the right way up, and fitted squarely. With a new light unit you should have the alignment checked optically by a garage, although a temporary adjustment can be made by experimenting with the focussing screws if you find that the light pattern is badly adrift. Remember though, this is a temporary adjustment.

Side, front flasher or reverse light bulb renewal MG front sidelamp assembly

7 2

Lens Lens retaining lugs

MG

models:

Press the lens inwards

and

turn

it anti-

clockwise to remove it; the bayonet-fitting bulb can now be removed and a replacement fitted, followed by the fens.

Other models:

Remove

the lens retaining screws and

take the lens off, then refer to the information

for MG

models.

given

Note that a capless (push-in) bulb is

used for the Princess sidelamps.

Stop/tail or rear flasher bulb renewal 1100

Mk I and

all Countryman/Traveller

models:

From inside the luggage compartment (on MG and Wolseley models, remove the floor panel and side trim

first), puli the bulb holder from its socket at the rear of the light body. The bulbs are bayonet-fitting types,

with offset pins for the stop/tail bulb.

Refitting the

bulbs is straightforward, but ensure that the pins of the stop/tail bulb are the right way round. 71100 Mk II! and all later saloon models: Remove the two lens unit screws and take the lens off. The bulbs

are similar to those described earlier for Countryman/ Traveller models.

Rear light assembly for Mk | and Estate models

25

IN AN EMERGENCY

Princess foglamp bulb

Interior lamp ‘festoon type’ bulb

panel

Wing repeater light bulb renewal Remove lens and

the two lens retaining screws,

take

out

the festoon-type

bulb.

lift off the Refitting is

straightforward.

Number plate light bulb renewal Remove lens

the screws and take off the light covers or

units,

then

remove

the

bayonet-fitting

bulbs.

Refitting is straightforward.

Interior light bulb renewal Squeeze then

the

pull

retained

the

by two

plastic lens

lens

away

to

release

(on

the

Princess

tongues,

models

it’s

screws) and take out the festoon-type

bulb. Refitting is straightforward.

unit,

withdraw

the

unit

and

| models

and

can

through

For

remove

the bulb.

in the light

battery

earth

lead for

safety’s sake.

crosshead (three

Remove the instrument cowling

screws),

crosshead

and

screws).

the

up behind

the facia.

bulb

bulbs

which

you

can

must

be reached.

remove

the

(after

the clamp

removing

and

wing

nut),

and

the

or chrome screw. The panel

can now

for access to the remaining

be eased

forward

bulbs, Refitting’s the reverse of removal. Princess:

of the over

For

/n all cases, while you're working behind the

(four

bulbs are a push-in type,

ignition switch escutcheon

The

procedure

sheer

instrument

Ease

the

panel

instrument

head

to the Leyland

Super

Panel and warning light bulb renewal

facia

When

everything's

light (if there is one), ashtray holder

Haynes

on

II and Mk bulbs

Austin

screw. man,

Owner's

de luxe and

to the

Mk | models - Morris:

bulb.

that

ashtrays, ashtray

All Mk

positioned

shell before the clamp screw is tightened.

26

remaining

and that the lugs are correctly

the

The

by reaching

and pull out any

the

in the

detach

relevant

ensure

Wolseley, Riley, MG, GT (positive earth): Remove the access hole cover from inside the glovebox, then reach

followed.

panel,

- Austin:

be removed

Refitting is straightforward but make sure that the slot

instrument

the

to

correctly aligned before tightening the screws. Mk

in the bulb disc locates in the projection in the holder,

NOTE:

remove

care

these

models

involves

complication on models with a steering lock is removal

the clamp screw at the bottom of the light

then

and

take

removing the facia panel (a rather complicated job) and lowering the steering column. An_ additional

Fog light bulb renewal (Princess) Loosen

forward

refitting,

This

Workshop

III models: GT

Morris

de

be passed

the procedure

Manual

should

be

For the Austin/Morris

(negative earth)

is as described and

job should

or otherwise

for Mk luxe

models,

| Austin

models,

access

models.

remove

the

facia panel (four screws) and pull the speedometer forwards; twist the bulb to remove it from its holder. Refitting’s straightforward, but make sure that the facia panel screws.

is squarely

All other models: Mk | models.

fitted

before

tightening

Refer to the information

the

given for

Save It! Do-it-yourself

car servicing is ail about money

ing the highest standards costs - Or at least prevent

of safety. them

saving, whilst not forgetting the ever-important point of maintain-

In this Chapter we cover several points which should help reduce your motoring

from

increasing quite as fast as they otherwise might these days - without reducing

your car's safety.

Tyres Without give you

any

much

doubt

whatever,

better value

because, although

a radial ply tyre will

for money

than a crossply

it will ‘cost a bit more

to buy, it will

last a great deal longer. Remould tyres can give good service, but they have their limitations when used for family motoring; remould radials now have a more reliable reputation than they had when they first appeared

on

the

market,

but sometimes

broadest

have

terms

the

we

learnt

more

you

so far? Only pay

you

for your tyres, the

a good runabout tyre, and aren't thinking of

remember

they

‘shimmy’

if

cheapest

tyre

may

used

give

on

which

the still

buy radial remoulds but a

bit

of

front;

steering

if you

complies

with

wheel

want the

the

law

in

safety standards, buy remould crossplies.

Regraded

to that in the

want

high speeds or long journeys,

give a bit of

trouble when trying to balance them. So, what

good tyre life but aren’t quite so worried about roadholding under adverse conditions, buy crossplies; if

be

tyres

known which

tyres are sometimes

as remould may

the tread pattern

quality

available (they used

or RQ); these are

have the very slightest of defects or moulding,

but are otherwise

in

per-

better value for money you'll get. If you want the best

fect. If you get the chance to buy these, buy them - to

in roadholding and tyre life, buy radials; if you want

all intents and purposes

they're as good as a new tyre.

Tyre construction - a cross section of a cross-ply tyre (left) and radial ply tyre (right)

27

SAVE

IT!

Cross-ply and Radial ply tyres The difference in the construction of the two types of tyre gives them very different characteristics.

The cross-ply (1) has a uniformly strong tread and wall bracing. This gives it better cushioning properties but allows some deformation on bad ]

Cross ply

Radial ply

2

surfaces and cambers,

The radial ply tyre (2) has

a supple wall and a firmly braced tread, ensuring that the maximum area of tread is kept in contact with the road despite suspension angle changes and road camber effects. On no account should the two types of tyre be mixed on the same axle. (See

the Weekly checks listed in Service Scene).

It's not

generally

realised

that

most

major

tyre

manufacturers also produce tyres under a less well known name at a somewhat cheaper price. These are first class buys too - ask any tyre dealer. Talking of tyre dealers, it’s worth mentioning that they’re the people to go to if you're intent on saving money (and who isn't these days?). Unless there’s a ‘special offer’ going, the most expensive place to get your tyres will normally

Now

last.

let’s just briefly consider

First,

Station

be your local garage.

keep

them

inflated

how to make tyres

properly

(see Fi//ing

Facts for the correct pressures). Second, drive

sensibly

(i.e. no

race-track starts or cornering). Third,

make sure the wheels are balanced a garage or tyre specialist).

properly (a job for

Exhaust systems The systems

average car gets through several in the course of its life, the actual

depending used

exhaust number on the sort of journeys for which the car's

(lots of short

remaining

journeys

will

mean

inside the exhaust system

condensation

and helping it to

rust Out more quickly). The needs

best

place

to

a replacement

go

when

exhaust

your

1100

(or maybe

or

1300

just part

of

the system) is one of the specialist ‘exhaust centres’ which have sprung up in recent years. They keep huge stocks to fit most mass-produced cars, and offer free fitting

as well

selves.

You'll

as discount

almost

saving compared

fit the exhaust

with

prices

certainly

on

the

show

getting your

a

parts

them-

worthwhile

Leyland dealer to

(which will involve labour charges as

well).

Batteries

If you're

Next to tyres, batteries are the most commonly found parts sold by specialists. A top quality battery may

cost

up to three times the price of the cheapest again,

price

is related

to quality,

but

isn’t

necessarily directly proportional. A battery with a twelve month guarantee ought to last that long and a little

bit

more,

but

batteries

always

seem

keep

your

car

for

several

but on the other hand should last the remainder of the car’s life. If you're interested, talk it over with one of the exhaust specialists - they're usually stockists of the stainless steel kind too.

to fail at

embarrassing or inconvenient times so it’s worthwhile getting something a little bit better. Many of the acces-

Lubricants and the like

bit less than the dearest ones around. And, if you look

Good cheap engine oils are available, but because it's so difficult to find out which cheap ones are good, it's safest to stay clear of them. There are plenty of good multigrade engine oils on the market and quite a

after it, it'll look after you, too.

few

sory shops and tyre dealers sell good quality batteries with two

or three year guarantees.

Buy one of these -

it'll be worthwhile in the long run and still cost quite a

28

to

mild steel replacement,

One that'll fit your car. Once

planning

years it would certainly be worth thinking about an exhaust system made from stainless steel. It'll normally cost you considerably more than an ordinary

are

available

at sensible

prices

from

the

D-I-Y

SAVE-‘IT! motoring and accessory shops.

Unless buy

oil

circumstances in pint

expensive

or

way

of

filling station.

should

half-litre buying,

The

tain

just about

change;

an

changes

the

extra

for most

will probably

for

to, don’t

is the

most

if it’s from

(they used

SMITHS

a

to be one

FUEL

purposes, and con-

right amount can

you

This

particularly

big 5-litre

gallon) cans are adequate

force

cans.

for an

topping-up

engine

oil

between

oil

CONSUMPTION

be required, particularly if your

pride and joy happens to be a bit of an oil burner. Oil is also available in larger drums (which can be fitted with a tap) sometimes at an even bigger price saving.

A telephone

call or visit to nearby wholesalers

may well prove worthwhile.

Antifreeze motoring apply

is always

shops,

because

but

you

cheaper

bulk

never

if you

buying need

go

doesn’t

to buy

to

the

normally

it in any

real

quantity. As for greases,

brake fluid, etc, you'll save a little

at the motoring shops but again you'll never need large quantities

- just

make

sure

that

you

buy

Smiths Industries’ ‘Milemiser’, a type of engine performance or vacuum gauge, can significantly improve fuel economy by monitoring driving technique

something you

that’s good quality.

can look after all these things, the rest’s up to you

as the driver.

Fuel Your car’s designed

fuel

(star rating).

to run ona

Don’t

buy

particular grade of

Driving habits With the car in a decent

fuel that’s of a higher

state of tune, there’s a lot

On the other hand, if you buy a lower rating fuel your

that you, yourself, can do to improve the car's economy simply by your method of driving. It’s very

engine

tempting

rating

than

this, because

performance

will suffer.

carefully

you're wasting your

(and probably

your

money.

engine

too)

If you are forced to buy inferior fuel, drive

until you can

circumstances by a couple

get the correct

it’s also beneficial of degrees,

grade; in these

to retard the ignition

but you've got the bother

slip

speed,

and

careful

produce

the

same

misused; it simply means getting

economy,

and economy

try

(sometimes

one at

violently

keeping

the

down

just a little more

the standard

by the manufacturers, so these must

be your obvious guidelines. Different

needles

if you're

performance

(see

particular

are

after Vita/

available

a

little

Statistics

model).

You

for

more for

might

the

carbu-

economy

the try

needle one

or

of the

valve

clearances),

but

take

care

that things like over-adjusted brakes don’t mar this. If

off;

a moderate

of the clutch,

result

much

with

greater

just

accelerates

no

need

pedal

in the

- you

may

but

for

don’t

it. The

same

need

press

position

to ease

it too

little time

it

hard -

saved

in

accelerating will be outweighed by the additional time and cost involved the next time you fill up with petrol.

Changing through

for

‘sports’ type air filters; these are claimed to improve performance and economy, but there’s a_ slight increase in the noise level. Regular maintenance is the most important factor in keeping the engine in a good state of tune (e.g. spark plugs, distributor points, ignition timing, carbuadjustments,

there’s

car

throttle

have a job to improve on the specifications and

from

starting

engagement

and only alittle more slowly. Once moving,

the

rettor(s)

driving is to use the pedals

when

while

of the other)

settings laid down

rettor

clutch

engine.

the expense

your

art of economical

engine

will

the best performance

You'll

The

sensibly. There’s no need to race the engine and let the

Engine tuning is much

to do a ‘grand prix’ start from the

ator just to show yourself that you can do it (nobody else cares anyway!).

of

resetting it again later.

The term

at times

traffic lights, or to change down and floor the acceler-

the gears should

be done in just

the same way, using the accelerator pedal with care. When you have to change down, there’s no need to rev

your engine - this is another fuel waster. Similarly, ‘blipping’ the throttle pedal while impatiently waiting for the Even

lights to turn green in warm

is using unnecessary

fuel.

weather you'll need to use the choke

to start a cold engine. The secret, though, is to push in

the soon

knob

as soon

it can

be

as possible; experiment done

- you

may

to see how

surprise

yourself.

29

SAVE

IT!

not only affects fuel mixture getting into the oil, and excessive engine wear. Considerably more

applies to bank and Civil Service employees.

engine

What it all adds up to is: (1) Insure well; (2) See what you can get in*the way of discounts; and (3)

Excessive

use

economy,

but results in unburnt

start

of

the

choke

wear occurs in a few hundred miles of stop/ motoring from cold, than in many times this

mileage

of

driving

with

a

thoroughly

warmed-up

also get a better

bargain

by insuring

the Motoring Associations if you're

You may

through

one of

a member.

Find out exactly what you're covered for.

engine on long journeys. Automatic transmissions can be used carefully also. The relative position of the throttle pedal considerably affects the road speed at which

the gears shift, and all

this with the extra 50 Ib or so of additional transmission weight and the power losses which occur in the torque converter.

Buying spare parts Apart from the oils and greases which you're going to need, it won't be long before you have to buy a few bits and pieces to Please do remember

keep

things running smoothly. up any parts which are

to clean

traded-in on an exchange basis (e.g. brake shoes) and, wherever possible, check that any replacement parts look the same as-the old one, either by direct compari-

Roof racks The

ever-faithful

so many

roof

rack

has proved a boon

motorists, for the extra

holiday

to

luggage, but

son

how often do you see cars being driven around with an empty been

roof made

still attached?

Many

estimates

of the increase in fuel consumption

by a roof

erally rack,

rack

rack, due

accepted this

to wind

can

caused

be done, or by reference

to any of the

Spare parts and accessories are available from many

sources,

but the following should act as a good guide

when they’re required.

resistance, and the gen-

figure is around

figure

have

if this can

illustrations in the appropriate Section of this book.

10%;

with

be as high as 30%.

a loaded

The

Officially appointed Leyland garages

moral,

Although

Leyland

dealers should be able to supply

everything

for your car, it’s generally true

then, is obvious, don’t use a roof rack unless you have

just about

to, and always remove it when it’s not in use.

to say that the prices

may

be higher than

you need

pay.

The car itself It seems almost a foregone conclusion that the 1100 will be more economical than the 1300, until you

look at comparative

true

that an

1100

can

fuel consumption

give you

more

figures. It’s

mpg, but for a

car that’s well loaded you're going to need to use the gearbox more. This means higher engine revs and consequently

less

economy,

so

never

rule

out

a

1300

because you think it will use more fuel. Where you might save a little is on a few replacement parts (where these are related to engine size), and insurance.

Other garages In recent years the big British car manufacturers introduced a replacement parts scheme whereby

have

they market parts for each others’ cars under trade names such as Mopar, Unipart and Motorcraft. Though you'll pay the same sort of prices for any of these parts ranges, you may well find that your local Chrysler

or

Ford

dealer

teed parts for your thing.

can supply

BLMC

you

with guaran-

car, and that can’t be a bad

Accessory shops

Insurance

These

usually the best places to get items like

contact breaker points, oil filters, pads, spark plugs, light bulbs, fan

obtained.

need for the general servicing of the car. They also sell general accessories and charge lower prices but, what's

make

A cheap

policy’s

good

until

you

need

to

a claim, and then the sort of snags you're going

touch-up

equally

inspect

hours and can often

the

damage?’

or

‘How

will it affect

my

No

pay

the

first

companies if they

£20

or so

of any

claim.

Many

large

have a discount scheme for their employees

use

the

same

insurance

company;

this. also

brake belts,

shoes

and

lubricants,

paints etc. - the very things you're going to

to come across are ‘How do | get hold of an assessor to

Claims Bonus?’ There are one or two legitimate ways of reducing the policy premium, perhaps by insuring for ‘owner driver only’, ‘two named drivers’, or an agreement to

30

are

Like some of the other things that we've discussed, the service you're going to get from your insurance company will be related to the cost of the cover

important,

they

have

be found

convenient

opening

not too far from home.

Motor factors Good

factors

components braking

will

stock

of the engine,

systems,

and

often

all the gearbox, provide

more

important

suspension guaranteed

on an exchange basis. They're particularly the more advanced do-it-yourself motorist.

and parts

useful

to

SAVE

Vehicle identification numbers When

obtaining spare parts

ories), the very least you year of manufacture

is all you

time

when

commission

need

to know,

you're number

must

of your

asked

(and sometimes

know is the model and car.

For many

items this

but there will soon

for

(which

access-

the you'd

engine always

come

number meant

a

or to

the bonnet valance. Car

number:

the bonnet

locking

platform

Stamped

locking

Engine

number:

to the

right-hand

on

or

a metal

right-hand

wing

plate fixed

to

platform.

Stamped

on

a metal

side of the cylinder

plate fixed block.

make a noie of but just hadn't got round to!). Make a note of these now, in your diary or inside the back

Transmission

casing assembly: Stamped

on a facing

provided

the

the

starter

cover of this book.

motor. a plate fixed

to the

The numbers you’re likely to need

are:

Body

Commission

number:

Stamped

on a plate fixed on

on

IT!

casing

number: Stamped right-hand wing valance.

joint on

below

31

Vital Statistics You're going to need to know most of the information in this Chapter that’s applicable to your particular model, at some time or other (even if it’s only to win a bet in the pub!). Let’s go in head first then, starting with the engine.

ENGINE Type designation Morris and Austin

1100 Mk I, manual

10 AMW,

10 AH

transmission Morris and Austin

1100 Mk II and Mk III,

Aes manual transmission

10H

MG, Vanden Plas, Riley Kestrel and Wolseley 1100, manual transmission, up to 1967

10 GR, 10 V

Austin and Morris 1100 Mk |, Mk I! and Mk III,

(automatic transmission), MG, Riley Kestrel, Vanden

Plas and Wolseley

1100, automatic

10 AG, 10 AJ, 10 AR

transmission, 1967 only

Austin and Morris 1300 (except GT), 1967 on, MG, Riley Kestrel and Wolseley 1300, manual

transmission, 1967 to 68, Wolseley and Vanden Plas 1300, automatic transmission, 1967 on,

12H

MG and Riley Kestrel 1300, automatic

transmission, 1967 to 69 Wolseley and Vanden

Plas 1300, manual

transmission, 1968 on, MG and Riley Kestrel

12H

1300, manual transmission, 1968 only MG and Riley Kestrel 1300 Mk II, manual transmission, 1968 to 71, Austin and Morris

V2

1300 GT, 1969 on

1275 cc engine as optional fitment to 1100

32

Mk

|, 1967 only

12s

[10

YIINII/aye1g ajnespAY

JOINGIAISIG

10je1Ipey deo

juau/jsedwos

UOISSILUSUCIY/AUIBUFZ [JO

YSEMUAAIIS

4afjlfdeo

jeaidA aulbua

40 e49UID SI OAIISAI

49/3SA1p A41ajjeg

VITAL STATISTICS 4-cylinder, 4-stroke, water-cooled, overhead valve,

Type

in-line, transversely

mounted.

Cubic capacity 1100

1098 cc

1300

1275 ce

Bore 1100

2.543 in (64.58 mm)

1300

2.78 in (70.61

mm)

Stroke 1100

3.296 in (83.72 mm)

1300

3.2 in (81.28 mm)

Compression ratio 10 AMW,

10 AH, 10 H (manual transmission,

pre-1972) 10 GR, 10 GV, 10 AG, 10 AJ, 10 AR, 10 H

(1972 on) 12 Gand

12 Hexcept GT, MG

Mk II (manual

transmission) and Riley Mk II (manual

S351

transmission) 12 H (GT, MG Mk II manual transmission and Riley Mk II manual transmission)

9.7532 4

Firing order

1-3-4-2 (No. 1 cylinder is nearest radiator)

Engine idle speed

Refer to Fuel System data

Valve clearances (cold) All models, inlet and exhaust

Maximum

0.012 in (0.305 mm)

torque

1100, single carburettor

60 Ibf ft (8.3 kgf m) at 2500 rpm

1100, twin carburettors

61 Ibf ft (8.4 kgf m) at 2750 rpm

1300, single carburettor, 8.8 : 1 compression

69 Ibf ft (9.54 kgf m) at 2500 rpm

ratio

1300, twin carburettors, 8.8 : 1 compression

70.5 Ibf ft (9.75 kgf m) at 3000 rpm

ratio

1300, twin carburettors, 9.75 : 1 compression

74 Ibf ft (10.23 kgf m) at 3250 rpm

ratio

Compression pressure 1100, 8.5:

1 compression

ratio

145 psi

1100, 8.9 : 1 compression

ratio

160 psi

1300, 8.8 : 1 compression ratio

155 to 180 psi

VITAL STATISTICS 1300, 9.75 : 1 compression

ratio

185 to 210 psi

Lubrication System NOTE:

The engine oil also lubricates the transmission.

Oil pump

type

Internal gear or eccentric vane

Oil pressure Idling:

1100

16 psi

1300 Running: 1100 1300

15 psi

60 psi 70 psi

Oil filter Oil type Sump capacity (total, including filter) : Manual

8% pt. (4.8 litres) 13 pt. (7.4 litres) 9 pt. (5 litres)

transmission

Automatic

transmission

Refill capacity (approx.)

COOLING

Full-flow type 20W-50 Multigrade

SYSTEM

System type

Pressurized with belt driven pump and fan. (Variable pitch fan on some

late GT models)

Thermostat setting 82°C (180°F)

Normal Expansion

tank cap blow-off pressure

Fan belt tension

13 psi

0.5 in (13 mm) deflection under firm thumb pressure midway

Cooling system capacity (total, including

along longest belt run.

6% pints (2.8 litres)

heater) Antifreeze type

FUEL

Ethylene glycol, BS 3151

or 3152

SYSTEM

Air cleaner

Disposable paper element type.

Fuel pump: S.U., SP or AUF S.U., AUF 714

Electrical type Mechanical

type

200

Deiivery pressure Electrical

Mechanical

2.5 to 3 psi

type

3 psi minimum

type

Carburettors S.U. horizontal-draught, constant depression.

Type Type usage:

Morris 1100 Saloon and Traveller - manual Austin 1100 Saloon and Countryman - manual Austin and Morris 1100 Mk models

II - all manual

1962 - 67 1963 - 67 1967 -71

35

VITAL STATISTICS Austin and Morris 1100 Mk III - all manual

1971

models Type

or

Piston spring

Red

Needle:

AN H6 EB

Standard Rich Weak Idle speed

550 rpm

Fast idle speed

1050 rpm 1962 - 67

MG 1100 and 1100 Mk I! Vanden Plas 1100 and 1100 Mk II Riley Kestrel and Mk II Wolseley 1100 and 1100 Mk II Type Piston spring

1964 - 67

1965 - 67 1965 - 67

HS 2 (Twin) Blue

Needle:

Idle speed

D3 D6 GV 500 rpm

Fast idle speed

1050 rpm

Standard Rich Weak

Austin and Morris 1100 - automatic Austin and Morris 1100 Mk II - automatic Austin 1100 Mk III - automatic MG, Riley, Vanden Plas and Wolseley 1100 automatic Type

1966 - 67 1967 -71 1971 1967 on

HS 4

Piston spring

Red

Needle: Fixed type: Standard

DL

Rich

BO ED

Weak

Spring loaded type

AAY

650 rpm 1050 rpm

Idle speed

Fast idle speed 1275 cc engines as optional extra for

1100

1967 only

Mk | Type

HS 4

Piston spring

Red

Needle: Standard Rich

Weak Idle speed

650 rpm

Fast idle speed

1050 rpm

Austin and Morris 1100 Mk 111 Type 7

36

DZ BQ CF

1972 0n

HS 4

Piston spring

Red

Needle

AAY 750 rpm

Idle speed

VITAL STATISTICS Fast idle speed

Exhaust gas CO content Austin and Morris 1300 - all versions, except

1100 to 1200 rpm 3.5 to 4.5%

1967 - 1971

GT MG, Riley, Vanden

Plas and Wolseley 1300 -

1967 - 68

manual Wolseley 1300 and 1300 Mk II and Vanden

Plas 1300 - automatic MG and Riley Kestrel 1300 - automatic

1967 on 1967 - 69 HS 4

Type

Piston spring

Red

Jet size

0.090 in (2.29 mm)

Needle: Fixed type: Standard Rich

Weak Spring loaded type Idle speed

Fast idle speed Wolseley 1300 and 1300 Mk II and Vanden

Plas 1300 - manual MG and Riley Kestrel 1300 - manual

DZ BO CE AAR 650 rpm 1050 rpm 1968 on

1968 only

Type

HS 2 (Twin)

Piston spring

Blue

Needle: Fixed type: Standard Rich Weak

Spring loaded type

EB M GG AAP

Idle speed

500 rpm

Fast idle speed

1050 rpm

MG 1300 Mk II - manual Riley 1300 Mk II - manual Austin and Morris 1300 GT Type

Piston spring Needle:

1968 - 71 1968 - 69 1969 - 1971 HS 2 (Twin) Blue

Fixed type (standard only)

Gy

Spring loaded type Idle speed

AAP 750 rpm

Fast idle speed

1050 rpm

Austin, Morris, Vanden

Plas and Wolseley

1972 0n

1300 Mk III Type

HS 4

Piston spring Needle

Red

Idle speed

Fast idle speed

Exhaust gas CO content

ABB 750 rpm 1100 to 1200 rpm 3.0 to 4.5%

37

VITAL STATISTICS Austin and Morris 1300 GT

1972 on

Type

HS 2 (Twin)

Piston spring Needle Idling speed Fast idle speed

Blue AAP 800 rpm 1100 to 1200 rpm

Exhaust gas CO content (maximum)

3%

Fuel tank capacity All models

8 gallons

Fuel octane rating Austin and Morris manual

1100 cc models

with

3 Star

transmission

All other models

4 Star

IGNITION SYSTEM System

type

Coil and distributor, with centrifugal and vacuum advance and retard

Morris Austin Austin Austin

1100 Saloon and 1100 Saloon and and Morris 1100 and Morris 1100

Traveller — Manual Countryman — Manual Mk Il — Manual Mk II1 — Manual

1962 - 67 1963 - 71 1967 — 71 1971-74

Ignition timing

Static Stroboscopic at 600 rpm (vacuum pipe

3° btde 5° btde

disconnected)

General distributor data Make and type

Lucas 25D4

Rotation

Anticlockwise

Dwell angle

60 + 3°

Points gap

0.014 to 0.016 in (0.36 to 0.40 mm)

Condenser capacity

0.18 to 0.24 mfd

Spark plugs Make and type

Champion

Gap

0.025 in (0.64 mm)

N9Y

or NS

Ignition coll Make and type

Lucas LA12

Primary resistance at 20° C (68°F)

3.0 to 3.4 ohms (cold)

MG

1100 and 1100 Mk II

1962 - 67

Vanden Plas 1100 and 1100 Mk II Riley Kestrel and Mk II Wolseley 1100 and 1100 Mk 11 Ignition timing Static Stroboscopic at 600 rpm (vacuum pipe 38

disconnected)

5° btde 7° btde

1964 - 67 1965 - 67 1965 - 67

VITAL STATISTICS

Spark plugs Make and type

Champion

All other details as for Austin/Morris

1100 Mk

11 manual

N5

transmission

models.

Austin and Morris 1100 Automatic Austin and Morris 1100 Mk I! Automatic Austin 1100 Mk IIl Automatic MG, Riley, Vanden Plas and Wolseley 1100 Automatic

1966 - 67 1967-71 1971 1967 on

Ignition timing Static: Distributor number:

41181, 41261 41134 Stroboscopic at 600 rpm

5° btde 7° btde (vacuum

pipe

disconnected) Distributor number:

41181, 41261

8° btde

41134

10° btde

Ignition coll Make and type

Lucas HA

All other details as for Austin/Morris

12

1100 Mk I! automatic transmission

models.

1275 cc Engine as Optional Fitment to 1100 Mk |

Ignition timing Static

1967 only

8° btde

Stroboscopic at 600 rpm

(vacuum pipe

10° btde

disconnected)

Spark plugs Make and type

Champion N9QY (originally UN 12Y)

Ail other details as for 1100 Mk | models.

Austin and Morris 1100 Mk III

Ignition timing Static

7° btde

Stroboscopic at 1000 rpm (vacuum pipe

14° btde

disconnected)

Spark plugs Make and type

Champion

N9Y or N5

.

Ignition coil Lucas HA 12

Make and type All other details as for earlier Mk 111 models with manual

transmission.

Austin and Morris 1300 — All Models Except GT

1967 - 1971

MG, Riley, Vanden Plas, and Wolseley 1300 — Manual

1967 - 68

39

VITAL

STATISTICS

Wolseley 1300 and 1300 Mk II, and Vanden 1300 — Automatic MG and Riley Kestrel 1300 — Automatic

Plas

1967 on

1967 - 69

[gnition timing Static Stroboscopic at 600 rpm (vacuum pipe

8° btde 10° btde

disconnected)

Spark plugs Make and type

Champion

All other details as for Austin/Morris

1100 Mk

I! manual

N9Y

transmission

models.

Wolseley 1300 and 1300 Mk II, and Vanden 1300 — Manual MG and Riley Kestrel 1300 — Manual

Plas

1968 arly

/gnition timing Static

5° btde

Stroboscopic at 600 rpm (vacuum pipe

8° btde

disconnected)

Spark plugs Make and type

Champion

All other details as for Austin/Morris

1100

Mk Il manual

transmission

N9Y models.

MG 1300 Mk II — Manual Riley 1300 Mk II — Manual Austin and Morris 1300 GT

Ignition timing Static

2 pide

Stroboscopic at 1000 rpm (vacuum pipe

9° btde

disconnected)

Spark plugs Make and type

Champion

N9SY

Lucas HA

12

Ignition coil Make and type All other details as for Austin/Morris

1100 Mk

Austin, Morris, Vanden

|| manual

transmission

models.

Plas and Wolseley 1300

Mk Itt

Ignition timing Static Stroboscopic at 1000 rpm (vacuum pipe

8° btde 13° btde

disconnected)

Spark plugs Make and type

40

Champion

1968 on

NOY

All other details as for Austin/Morris 1100 Mk | manual transmission models.

VITAL STATISTICS

CLUTCH Type 1100, pre October 1974

Single dry plate, coil spring.

All other models

Single dry plate, diaphragm spring.

Driven plate diameter

7 1/8 in (181 mm)

Clutch fluid specification

SAE J1703C or DOT 3

MANUAL TRANSMISSION

(GEARBOX)

Type

4 forward speeds and reverse with synchromesh 2nd, 3rd and 4th (early cars) OR

on

with synchromesh

on all forward gears (later cars).

Ratios 1100, Transmission

4 speed synchromesh

3 speed synchromesh

Top

U0) 31

Ove

Third

(42k 1 Ql) Dice 1 Bogie 1 S627 1

DDO ial Stoel

Second First Reverse

14s54

3.54:

1

1100, Overall Top

413%

1

Third

5:33:

1

413201

Second

8.98 : 1

lA

ot

First

14.99 : 1

14257

ot

Reverse

14.99:

1

14.65:

1

biQORM

1100, Final Drive

ANSrall

1275 cc Option and 1300, Transmission Early 1275 cc

Later 1275 cc

engines

engines

Top

OE

Oa

Third

IEA26 3 1

(aA?

Second

PEA20RF

PLEX

First Reverse

S829

4]

SOL

i

1300 models

1300 models

SSoaicR

9.75:1CR

LORS =

3.627% SHVA7/

(kA

SN Sey

10°24 Sal

ests) 37

222Ee| Seo get

2 Oem SEOCnel

354051

SEES: 54

Si65En1 5225

4.93:

1275 cc Option and 1300, Overall Top

S44

SH{G}5)©

516% TESPAS

Third Second First

4:9 Siam Venere

USEPA

Reverse

tiSaGee

USA

1275 cc (Early Models), Final Drive 1275 cc (Later Models) and 1300, Final Drive

8.09: 1 12.85: 1 22a

5 ek) ok) =

1 3.65 : 1

S652)

1) 4 1

Tow) 2 a 12.04: 1 WeAO22S &

B44":

‘E

41

VITAL STATISTICS

Road speed in top gear at 1000 rpm (approx.) 1100

15 mph

1275 cc (3.44 : 1 final drive)

18 mph

1275 cc (3.65 : 1 final drive) and 1300

17 mph

Transmission lubricant

Refer to Engine data.

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION Type

Three-element fluid torque converter and

hydraulically

operated bevel reduction gearbox.

Ratios Transmission Top

eOhsat

Third

15460514

Second

1.845: 1

First

Zi69%% t 2691

Reverse

Early 1100 models

Overall

Later 1100 and 1300 models

Top

At

rose |oY a |

Third Second

5.84: 1 Wess; oe |

54904 6.94: 1

First

TO76

cn

10:12

Reverse

1O765

1

VOSAat

Final Drive Early 1100 models

S420

Later 1100 models and 1300 models

S27

Transmission lubricant

24

Refer to Engine data.

DRIVE SHAFTS Type

Solid, with Hardy Spicer (Hooke’s) or constant velocity inner joint; constant velocity outer joint.

BRAKING

SYSTEM

System type

Lockheed

hydraulic; front disc and rear drum.

operated handbrake to rear wheels only.

Front brake type Mk | models and early 1100 Mk II (manual

Fixed caliper

transmission) models Other models

Swinging caliper

Fixed caliper type Disc diameter

8.0 in (20.3 mm)

Minimum

1/16 in (1.59 mm)

pad thickness

Swinging caliper type

42

Disc diameter

8.4 in (213.4 mm)

Cable

SS

ae

ee

‘ Minimum

ee

eae

VITAL STATISTICS

pad thickness

1/16in (1.59 mm)

Rear brake type

Leading and trailing shoe.

Drum diameter Minimum lining thickness

8.000 to 8.005 in (20.320 to 20.333 cm) 1/16 in (1.59 mm)

Brake fluid specification

SAE J1703C or DOT 3

Servo (where fitted)

Lockheed type 6

ELECTRICAL

ee

SYSTEM

System type 1100 Mk ! and Mk II

1100 Mk III Austin and Morris 1300; Riley and MG and 1300 Mk

12 volt, positive earth 1300

12 volt, negative earth 12 volt, positive earth

li; Princess 1300 and Wolseley

1300 and 1300 Mk Ii (up to 1971) Austin and Morris 1300 Mk I!1; Princess 1300 and Wolseley 1300 Mk I! (1971 on)

12 volt, negative earth

Battery Type (as original equipment)

Lucas D9/DZ9 Lucas A9/AZ9 Lucas A11/AZ11

Capacity at 20 hr rate

D9 and AY Al

40 amp hr 50 amp hr

Starter motor Make and type

Lucas M35G

or M35J

Dynamo Make and type

Lucas C40

Dynamo control box Type

RB 340 or 106

Alternator (where applicable) Type - positive earth cars

Lucas 11AC

Type - negative earth cars

Lucas 16ACR

Control unit (11AC alternator) Field isolating relay (11AC alternator)

ATR 6RA

Warning light control (11AC alternator)

3AW

or 17ACR

Windscreen wiper Make and type

Lucas 3WA or 14W

y

Horns Make and type

Lucas 9H, 9H modified or 6N. Clear hooters

F725/N

Fuse unit Make and type

Lucas 4FJ

Fuse rating (2 live, 2 spare)

35 amps

43

VITAL STATISTICS An additional 35 amp in-line fuse for the side and tail lamps is fitted behind the right hand side of the facia, adjacent to the wiring connectors

on later models.

Bulbs Mk | models

Watts

Headlights

50/40

Sidelights: Austin Morris, Wolseley, Riley, MG Princess Direction indicator lights (front and rear) Tail and stop lights Number

plate illumination

6 5 ZA

6/21

light:

Morris, MG

6

Austin, Wolseley, Princess, Riley

6

Panel and warning lights (screw-in type) Panel and warning lights (bayonet type)

22, 2

Interior light Direction indicator stalk Radiator badge (Wolseley) Fog light (Princess)

6 es 6 48

Reverse light (Princess)

21

Mk II and Itl models As for Mk | with following exceptions: Direction indicator repeater lights: Capless bulb

5

Bayonet bulb

6

Direction indicator warning light Number

2

plate light:

Austin, Morris, Princess, Riley 1300,

6

Wolseley 1300 MG, Riley 1300

6

Reverse light (GT)

Mk II, Wolseley 1300 Mk II

21

a

Fuse block

Suspension trim height check

VITAL STATISTICS

4

SUSPENSION AND STEERING Front suspension

Independent by interconnected

Hydrolastic displacers

and unequal length arms.

Castor angle

5%° positive - static unladen condition,

Camber angle

¥° positive - static unladen condition. 10° - static unladen condition.

King pin inclination Toe-out

1/16 in (1.59 mm) - static unladen condition. 4 ft 3% in (1.297 mm) - static unladen condition.

Track

Rear suspension Type

Independent by interconnected radius arms, and anti-roll bar.

Camber angle Toe-out Track

1° positive - static unladen condition.

Hydrolastic displacers,

1/8 in (3.18 mm) 4 ft 2 7/8 in - static unladen condition.

Steering Type

Steering wheel turns - lock to lock

Rack and pinion. 3 1/8

Turning circle

34 ft 9 in (10.59 m)

Suspension trim height (hub centre to underside of front wing) Austin and Morris 1300 GT

13 + 3/8 in (330 + 9 mm)

Austin and Morris 1100 Mk II and 1300 with arch rear spring

14 + 3/8 in (355 + 9 mm)

All other models

13 5/8 + 3/8 in (346 + 9 mm)

JY RES AND-TYRE

PRESSURES

Refer to Filling Station Facts

DIMENSIONS AND WEIGHTS (approx.) Overall length Overall width Overall height

(2fe2a75in 5 ft 0.375 in 4 ft Sin

7 ft 9.5 in

Wheel base Track: Front

4 ft 2.875 in

Rear

4 ft 2.875 in

Turning circle Ground clearance: Saloon Countryman/Traveller

GT Boot capacity

34 ft 9 in 6 in (15.24 cm)

6.125 in (15.5 cm) 5.5 in (14 cm) 9.5 cu ft

Weights (approx.): 1100 Saloon, manual transmission

1800 Ib (820 kg)

1100 Saloon, automatic transmission

1850 Ib (840 kg)

1100 Countryman/Traveller

1820 Ib (825 kg)

1300 Saloon, 4 dr, manual transmission

1850 Ib (840 kg)

1300 Saloon, 4 dr, automatic transmission 1300 Countryman/Traveller

1880 Ib (855 kg)

1300 GT Maximum

towing weight

1890 Ib (860 kg)

1900 Ib (862 kg)

15 cwt (760 kg)

45

—— 7 t

‘ \

pee A

Wes

Tools for the Job For anyone

intending to tackle car servicing, a selection of good down-to-earth

initial outlay, even

though

it may

appear to be something approaching

tools is a basic requirement.

the national

defence

The

budget, could well be

less than the labour charges for one full service; on top of this, you should be paying less for the oil and replacement parts by getting them yourself so, provided you've two or three hours to spare, you must be on to a winner.

The

tools supplied with the car allow you to jack and nothing else. The absolute

up and change a wheel

minimum you're going to need is the additional tool kit available through Leyland dealers under Part No. AKF

1596, which comprises the following:

6 spanners (5/16 x 3/8 in AF, 7/16 in x %in AF, % in x 9/16 in AF, 9/16 in x 5/8 in AF, 11/16 in x 13/16 in AF, % in x 7/8 in AF) 1 Pair 6 in pliers 1 %in x 9/16 in AF tubular spanner 1 7 in x 3/8 in dia tommy bar 2 screwdrivers With

a bit of luck

and

ingenuity,

this should get

you through the routine servicing jobs, but it won't do much else. A small but important point when buying tools is

Combination ring/open spanner

the quality. You don’t have to buy the very best in the

shop but, on the other hand, the cheapest probably aren’t much good. Have a word with the manager or proprietor if you’re in doubt. He’ll tell you what’s good value for money.

It’s very goind

help

to

difficult to tell you exactly what you're

need,

but the list below

in building

up

a good

tool

spanners

should be a great kit. (Combination

(ring one end, open-ended recommended because, although more

double

open-ended

the other) are expensive than

ones, they give the advantages of

both types). Combination

spanners to cover the range % to 1 in

AF Adjustable spanner - 9 inch

Spark plug spanner (with rubber insert) Spark plug gap adjustment tool Set of feeler gauges

Brake adjuster spanner (% in AF, square)

Screwdriver - 4 in blade x % in dia (plain)

Adjustable wrench

TOOLS

FOR THE JOB

Screwdriver - 4 in blade x % in dia (crosshead) Pliers - 6 inch Junior hacksaw Tyre pump

Tyre pressure gauge Grease gun Oil can Fine emery. cloth or oilstone

Wire brush (small) Funnel (medium size) Hydraulic jack or strong scissor type

Pair of axle stands (concrete or wooden blocks wiil do if you're careful about choosing them) Hose brush

You may find that a pair of metal ramps is a very useful investment, providing an alternative to the jack or axle stands

when

you

want

to get at the underside

The basic too! kit as supplied with a late model MG 7300 Mk I!

of the car but don't need to remove the wheel(s). Most ramps

available give a lift of betwee"

and you

can, of course,

9 inches and 1 ft

drive either the front or back

end

of the car on to them - but you'll still need to engage a gear and chock the other two wheels for

safety’s sake. Hopefully, to show you

; your attempts

at car servicing are going

that it can all be worthwhile, and having

worked your way through the various jobs listed in the Service Schedules you'll be able to see that there are many others which can be done without becoming a mechanical

wizard.

For this purpose,

Haynes publish a

first class Owner's Workshop Manual for the 1100/1300 which details just about every operation that can conceivably

be done on these cars. It'll mean

Stee/ ramp

Set of feeler gauges

Axle stand

47

TOOLS

FOR THE JOB

buying

a few

out to save

more

tools, but to hell with it - you're

yourself some

some

of

the

Cylinder compression gauge This is very useful for tracing the cause of a fall-off

and get a good job

in engine performance.

done in the process. While we're talking tioning

money

about

tools,

tune-up

it’s worth

aids

market. A visit to a good motor an enlightening experience, just of things available. Later in this about ‘bolt-on goodies’, but in concern ourselves with are three

that

are

menon

the

accessory shop can be to show you the sort book, you'll find a bit this Chapter all we'll items.

and

non-return

It consists

valve,

and

spark plug hole while

starter.

the engine

Compression

of a pressure

is simply

figures

screwed

gauge into a

is turned over on the

are

given

in

Vita/

Statistics. Two other useful items are a hydrometer, which is used for checking the specific gravity of the battery electrolyte

(this

will

tell you

if you

have

a dud

cell

which won't hold a charge), and a 12-volt lamp on an extension

Stroboscopic timing light The most accurate way of checking ignition timing (that’s the time at which the spark occurs) is with the engine

light

running,

is used.

and

This

for this a stroboscopic

(strobe)

is connected

1 spark

to

No.

plug lead and the beam is shone on to the crankshaft pulley mark. Any proprietary light is supplied with full connecting and operating instructions.

lead

with

crocodile

clips

which

Having bought a reasonable set of tools and equipment, it’s the easiest thing in the world to abuse them. After use, always wipe off any dirt and grease using a clean, dry cloth before putting them away. lying around

after

they've

been

which

is used

carry

for measuring

the distributor

the period of time for

points remain

closed during the

and

Never leave

used.

rack on the garage wall, for things you This

be

Care of your tools

them

Dwell angle meter

can

connected to the battery terminals.

A simple

don’t need to

in the car, is a good idea. Keep all your spanners the like in a metal

around

them

box

to stop them

- you

can

wrap

some

rags

rattling if you're going to

ignition cycle of one cylinder, and provides a more accurate method of setting-up the ignition than can be done by simply setting the points gap. Dwell angle

carry them in the boot of the car. Any gauges and meters should be carefully put away so that they don’t

meters

normally

(rev

taining

your

counter

if yor!

for

example,

inevitably

incorporate prefer),

checking engine idle speed.

which

a can

tachometer be

useful

get damaged

or rusty. tools

Do take a little care over maintoo.

Screwdriver

blades,

for

lose their keen edges, and a little

timely attention with a file won't go amiss.

Service Scene We've

now

discussed some

of the more

important

features of your car, and also given some thought to equally

important things like tools, money

saving and so on. Now to the nitty-gritty of servicing — perhaps the very thing you've dreaded for so long? It’s not as difficult or mysterious as you think ... The

1100/1300

models

are

an

up-to-date

design

which,

if it means

nothing

more

to you,

does offer the

advantage attention.

of fairly widely spaced service intervals and a general reduction in the number of items requiring This has developed from the increased use of sealed-for-life bearings, nylon bushes, better metal and lubricant technology, and a reduction in the number of moving parts (which tends to make some people think the car will go on forever without any regular attention because half the bits don’t exist any more!). It’s

still

important

to

carry

out

servicing

and

inspections at regular intervals to keep the car safe, to prolong its active life, and to maintain a sensible resale value. was

The

old maxim

never

Whether

of prevention

truer than in connection

rather than cure with car servicing.

it be casting your eagle eye over the general

workings

of the car

or

getting

down

to the service

Safety Accidents do happen, but 99% of them can be prevented by taking a little care. We're going to list a few points which should reduce any accident risk, and we'd like you to read through them before starting work — it could prove to be very worthwhile. DON’T run the engine in the garage with the doors

tasks in a workmanlike (or workwomanlike) fashion, it’s all going to be worthwhile in the long run.

closed - exhaust fumes are highly poisonous.

Remember

running

that a worn

part won’t

put itself right and

isn’t a thing to be lived with. Fix it as soon as you find it, even if it’s not time for the next service.

DON’T

work

in an inspection

- the fumes

will

tend

pit with the engine

to concentrate

at the

lowest point. DO keep long hair, sleeves, ties and the like well

job. The items listed are basically those recommended

clear of any rotating parts when the engine’s running. DON'T grab hold of ignition HT leads when the engine’s running - there’s just the possibility of an electric shock, particularly if the leads are dirty or

by

wet.

In this Chapter, we've tried to present the servicing tasks in a logical way to minimize the amount of

jacking up, etc, which the

some

car

may

manufacturers,

additional

ones

the extra trouble. If you've recently

be a prelude to the actual but

which

are supplemented

we

bought

by

DO

think are well worth

the car, the safest thing

about things as you'd like to be. If you don’t use the car regularly enough to clock up the scheduled mileage until well after the time interval that’s quoted as an alternative

basis

for

Spring can

and

make

guide, always use the time intervals as your

servicing. Autumn sure

season ahead.

your

see

that

check-ups,

You'll

too,

car’s

as

fit as

we’ve

included

just so that you possible

for the

the

rear

of the car, and

apply

the handbrake

is to go right through all the Service Schedules (not on the same day, of course!) unless you can really satisfy yourself that the previous owner was as meticulous

chock

front

DON’T underneath.

rely on Axle

wheels

when

jacking

vice versa. Where

and engage

first or reverse gear.

the car jack when stands,

or

up the

possible, also

you're working

wooden

or

concrete

blocks should be used, placed under the rear oy front subframes - but do take care, the 1100/1300 models can

be affected

by rusting of the subframes,

partic-

ularly the rear one. DO wipe up oil or grease from the floor if you spill any (and you will do, sooner or later). DO thing's

get someone to check regularly that everyOK if you're likely to be spending some time

underneath the car.

49

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SERVICE SCENE DON'T use a file or similar tool without a handle. The tang can give you a nasty gash if something goes wrong. BO make sure when you're using a spanner that it’s the right size for the nut and that it’s properly

fitted

before tightening or loosening. DO

brush

away

any

drilling swarf

with

an

old

paintbrush - never your fingers.

DON’T allow battery acid or battery terminal corrosion to contact the skin or clothes. If it should happen,

wash

off

immediately

with

plenty

GF =5

S

of cold

running water. DON’T

rush

any

job

- that’s

how

mistakes

are

made. If you don't think you'll finish the job in time, do it tomorrow, but try not to make this an excuse for forgetting about it.

DO spills

take care when on

the

pouring out brake fluid. If it

paintwork

iately, it'll take

and

isn’t

removed

the paint off. And

immed-

wash your

hands

Always support the car firmly before working underneath. Here axle stands are in use under the front subframe

well afterwards as it’s poisonous.

~ SERVICE SCHEDULES WEEKLY, BEFORE A LONG NEY:OR- EVER Y¥-250-:MILES The

following

tools,

lubricants,

etc., are

JOURlikely to be

needed: Tyre

pressure

gauge,

wheel

nut

spanner,

lint-free

cloth. Multigrade engine oil, distilled water, clean tap water, windscreen washer detergent sachet (antifreeze type in winter), cooling system anti-freeze.

1. Check engine oil level (car on level ground) Manual transmission models The engine oil dipstick’s on the spark

the

engine

between

the

dynamo

plug side of

and

Removing a battery terminal

distributor

(beneath the fibreboard cover if your engine has one). If the engine has just been running, wait a few minutes for the oil to drain

back to the sump, then pull the dipstick up and out. Wipe it clean on a lint-free cloth then put back into its full depth; now pull it out again and check the level. Add oil if necessary, to bring it up

to the because

‘MAX’

mark

it’s not

on

the dipstick - don’t overfill

only wasteful

but can

also mean

oil

finding its way into the clutch or leaking out of one of the engine or transmission oil seals.

Take

care

pouring

in the oil

(the filler’s on the

recker cover towards the radiator end, covered by a metal or plastic cap), and allow it to drain into the sump and transmission casing before re-checking the level. When you're satisfied that the job is completed, ensure that the dipstick and filler cap are properly fitted, then wipe any spilt oil from the engine. Where

applicable, secure the fibreboard cover with the clips.

Fibreboard cover (1) used on later models, showing

securing clip positions (2)

51

SERVICE

SCENE

Engine coolant reservoir cap Dipstick on automatic transmission models

Automatic transmission models The engine oil dipstick’s on the spark plug side of

3.

the engine to the left and below No 4 (the rear) spark

reservoir, together

plug. To check the oil level, run the engine for at /east minute, then switch off and wait for a further

an

minute.

because this can damage the car paintwork).

One

that

The

remaining

described

for

the

procedure’s manual

now

the same

transmission

as

Top up windscreen washer reservoir Add

water

ary detergent

4.

Check battery electrolyte /evel

below

any dirt or moisture from the top

member) it's time

caps

the

regular

electrolyte

level

the battery cells, and check

(with

the

Lucas

Pacemaker

battery

you can see the fluid level through the battery case). Add distilled water to bring the level just above the tops of the

battery

plates; with the Pacemaker

type,

distilled water is added to the trough until all the rectangular filling slots are full and the bottom of the trough’s just covered. If for some reason you've got no distilled water you can use the frost which collects on the walls of the freezer or fridge, and allow this to melt; if you're

cooling

In winter, use

system

antifreeze,

level

dynamo

in the

reservoir

or alternator

on

(it’s down

the front cross-

to

add

task,

spells danger.

some

you're

more.

If this

obviously

is becoming

losing

Causes of loss may

some,

a

which

be loose or perished

hoses, a faulty seal on the reservoir or radiator cap, a leaking gasket.

radiator or heater, or a blown cylinder head If you can’t find the fault, get it looked into

Straight away

by the local

Leyland

man

before your

troubles really start. Never

engine

remove

the reservoir

is hot; if you

everywhere

and

system’s warm,

you

do, could

or radiator

boiling

cap

if the

may

shoot

burnt.

If the

water

get severely

take off the reservoir cap s/ow/ly, first

really desperate, and as a last resort only, boil up some

turning

tap water in the kettle then allow it to cool, but don’t

then

make a habit of using this or the battery will suffer in

there’s coolant in the reservoir, you shouldn’t have to top up the radiator unless air has got into the system (this can happen with a blown cylinder head gasket): if

the long run. Refit the cell

caps

or cover,

carefully

wiping

up

it anticlockwise

removing

to

it fully

let the

and

pressure

topping

up.

escape, Provided

any drops of water that were spilt, then check that the

the radiator does have to be topped up, fill it right up

terminals

to the filler neck.

are tight.

A very

light smear

of petroleum

jelly (Vaseline) can be applied to these to help prevent any corrosion.

52

for windscreens.

(not

is less than 2% in (57 mm) from the bottom,

the

from

type

coolant

the

of the battery so that none can get inside. Remove

or cover

washer

Check engine coolant level If the

First wipe away

products

antifreeze

to the windscreen

with a little of one of the propriet-

models

(above).

2.

as necessary

If the weather’s extremely

cold, run the

engine for a few minutes; this will charge the battery and mix the electrolyte which will prevent the added water from freezing.

If only a very small quantity of coolant is required, you

can

get

away

with

adding

water

only,

but

remember you're diluting the antifreeze strength so beware, especially in winter. Preferably top up with an antifreeze/water mixture as generally used in the

SERVICE SCENE system

-

for

further

information

on

this,

see

the

looking for the tell-tale reflection on the garage wall or

24000-mile Service Schedule, later in this Chapter. When you've topped up the system, ensure that the

adjacent

cap seals are clean, then refit the caps.

in the High Street). If any bulb needs renewing, you'll

car.

(Shop

find the secret

5.

Check tyre pressures and tread condition With

the

tyres

cold,

check

their

pressures

Emergency. (see

Filling Station Facts). \f possible, use your own gauge - those

at

garages

tend

(except

you

and

us) and

their

accuracy.

Don't

to

be

abused

they’re

forget

by

spare

wheel;

pressure here should be up to the maximum

for the

ever likely

to be needed - you can always let some air out if necessary when the wheel is used. With the tyres properly inflated, run your hands and eyes over the tyre walls and tread. This is best done with the wheel off the ground so that it can be rotated but, if you’re really not feeling up to it, move the car

backwards

or forwards

less than 1 mm over at least three-quarters of the width, and around the full circumference. You can buy gauges for checking this, but a 2p piece inserted in

groove

is a good

deeper than the distance

guide.

If the tread’s

not

from the row of dots to the

edge of the coin, you're breaking the law, so get some replacements pretty quickly. There must also be no cuts, bulges or other deformities; if these are present,

you’re also breaking the law. If you’ve got to buy new tyres, read the bit in Save /t! but remember that it’s illegal to fit a radial and a crossply tyre on the same axle (i.e. at the same end of

the car) and that radials mustn't be fitted on the front

down

a useful

of how

And

to get at it revealed in /n An

while you’re checking

the lights, it

sense to see that the lenses are clean, front and

rear.

EVER Yes000: MIKES: O R23: MONTHS, WHICHEVER COMES FIRST (in addition to the ‘Weekly’ Schedule). The

following

tools,

lubricants,

etc., are

likely to be

needed: Sump

drain

plug

miscellaneous Multigrade

spanner,

spanners,

engine

grease

gun,

oil

can,

hydrometer

(if available).

brake

clutch

oil,

and

fluid,

petroleum jelly. You may also need:

Windscreen wiper blades, set of brake pads.

1. Change engine oil (if necessary) The 6000

engine miles

or

oil’s normally 6 months,

but

changed

at intervals

in certain

cases

of

more

frequent changing is required. The sort of conditions we're talking about are: repeated stop/start driving where you're often using the choke; driving in extremely cold conditions; or driving in extremely hot

conditions much given

2.

(the latter isn’t likely to worry

you too

in Britain!). The procedure for oil changing is in the 6000 mile Schedule, together with

Check fan belt tension The

6. Check tightness of wheel nuts you’re

provide

renewal of the filter.

if you've got crossplies on the back.

While

makes

a foot or two, so that

you can check all round. The tread depth must not be

the tread

can

everyone

not renowned

the

windows

check on brake lights - try it next time you're parking

at floor level, it’s a good time

drive

belt from

the engine

crankshaft

pulley

not only drives the fan (as its name suggests) but also

to check the tightness of the wheel nuts. Take off the hub caps or trim plates using that bit of bent iron which is supplied with the car (if you've got to use a screwdriver, take care with the chrome and paintwork)

and just check that the nuts are tight using the spanner supplied

for the job. This is % in in case you

got

original

the

and

have

to

buy

haven't

one - it’s pretty

difficult to use any other type successfully. There’s no need wheel

to stand will

tightened

on

the spanner,

have to come

firmly.

Don’t

because

someday

off, but the nuts should

forget

to put back

the be

the hub

caps or trim plates afterwards.

7. Check that all the lights work

:

Switch on the car lights and check that they’re all working correctly. Don’t forget to include the direction indicators and brake lights, either by getting someone

to

watch

while

you

operate

them

or

by

Radiator cap

53

SERVICE

SCENE

the water pump, which is behind the fan pulley, and the generator (dynamo or alternator). Failure of this

rather insignificant item

(the belt, that is) has ruined

many a journey, and it must be inspected regularly. You're not only looking for slackness, but also for any signs of fraying or splitting of the belt fabric. A slack Or damaged fan belt not only affects cooling and charging, but can produce some pretty awful shrieking and rumbling noises on occasions - and is likely to pack up completely at any time.

3. Check clutch and brake fluid level The brake and clutch fluid reservoirs are the two tin cans attached to the rear bulkhead of the engine compartment. (The clutch reservoir’s the one on the right as you stand facing them). Wipe carefully around

the

reservoir

remove bottom added level

caps

each one. of the

with

filler

as necessary. each time

The correct belt tension is given in Vita/ Statistics under the cooling system Section. It’s going to need adjustment some time, so here’s how: Loosen the two pivot bolts which attach the generator to the engine; if your car’s one of those with the coil above the dynamo, this makes things a bit

the bodywork.

more tricky because the front one’s difficult to get at

tion.

somewhere urgently.

which

Much

a clean

lint-free cloth,

The fluid level should neck,

and

new

fluid should

must

be

of this is an

traced

iately; it acts as a very efficient paint stripper if left on Refit

both

reservoir

caps

when the tension’s correct. the generator

mounting and adjustment bolts as already described, and slip the belt off the pulleys. Now comes the bit guaranteed

man

who

to

make

designed

you

say

nasty

got to do is to pass the belt over

turn,

things about

the cooling system.

using the indentation

each

What fan

the

you’ve blade

in

so kindly provided in the

cowling, until the whole belt’s on the radiator side of

the

fan;

Fitting

then

pull

a new

belt

it out

is the

between

reverse

two

fan

blades.

of this awkward

procedure; its tension should be checked after about 250 miles, and readjusted if necessary to take up any

initial stretching.

Fan belt adjustment (alternator shown but dynamo is

similar) 7 Securing bolts, 2 Adjusting link nut,

3 Drive end bracket

rectified

it’s dealt with in item 14 of this Schedule. Don't forget to wipe up any fluid spillage immed-

alternator this must be at the drive end bracket only or you'll damage it. Tighten all the nuts and bolts loosen

and

‘under the car’ job, and

the engine. A bit of leverage can be used, but with an

belt’s to be renewed,

be

If there’s a marked drop in the you check it, there’s leakage

(remove the coil if you like, it only means undoing the metal strap). Now loosen the adjusting link nuts and bolts (at each end), and pull the generator away from

If the

then

be up to the

Fan belt removal gap (arrowed)

on

comple-

SERVICE terminals. making

Ensure good

these are sufficiently

contact

by

checking

SCENE

tight and are

that

the

starter

operates.

5.

Check condition of windscreen wiper blades With

time,

affected screen,

wiper

blades

by oil and fumes

and the wiping action

the only

answer

when

deteriorate.

which

They're

collect on the wind-

deteriorates.

Renewal

is

this occurs, and it’s a straight-

forward operation. Pull the wiper arm

draw

the

blade

away

out

of

from

the

the windscreen

socket

with

a

and

gentle

outward

curving pull. The end of the arm is inserted into the blade holder and the blade swivelled to lock

the two together. If the arm itself Splined drive

fitting from action will

If you've got a hydrometer (it’s not essential) now’s the time to use it to check your battery specific

be satisfactory.

help

6.

gravity (SG for short). Assuming that it’s well charged, been

and

necessary.

Check and clean battery

the SG reading should

but

reposition

you

remove

prepare

to meet

thy battery

the

maker

end

is in sight

before

-

it lets you

battery

time

to time

terminals

leads. Where

corrosion

may

appear

on

the

front

detach the leads (the

and lift out the battery. A solution of warm water and bicarbonate of soda will remove all the corrosion; brush it on to the terminals, making sure that none gets inside. You can dip the lead ends straight into the solution,

but too much

corrosion

will neutralize

chocked,

Remove

it so

pads

eyes, as there’s

a certain amount

more

easily next

are much

support

it firmly,

get into

of fizzing and

applied

and

compartment

a good

degree

smeared

with

used

in the battery

if there’s been corrosion, as this provides

of protection.

petroleum

Other

parts should

jelly (Vaseline)

with

than

the

wheel,

of friction material

bolted up. Make sure everything’s covered, but only very lightly. Refit the battery and leads, smearing a little more petroleum jelly on the lead ends and

left. If this

a pair of pliers; note the anti-squeal

shims

other,

but

they

never

can

do this

be

interchanged

if one’s

worn

on

down

that

to

the

limit even if the other’s OK. Carefully clean dirt

which

the recess could

properly.

reservoir and Carefully

in the caliper to remove

prevent

Now

the

remove

new

the

place a large absorbent

press

in the caliper

for the new,

thicker

pads

cap

from

from

the

cloth

beneath it.

this

is to make

piston;

pads, but watch

the fluid spill over -

that’s what the absorbent rag’s for. The

be

before being

the

that given in Vita/ Statistics, pull out the

level in the reservoir as it will rise and may

be

and rear

on the pad retaining spring

underseal

can

time.

remove

room

of paint

if

the same. Jack up the

bubbling while it does its work. When everything's clean again wipe every part dry with aclean cloth. An type

splines

the splines

(thin metal plates) used with early calipers - take out these also. If one pad of a pair is wearing more quickly

seating

doesn’t

the sweep

the

the spring then, looking at the ends of the

is less than

all this,

the mixture

on

of grease on

the arm

pads, check the amount

any

that

arm

of the car with the handbrake

may need a second lot. Also clean round the battery compartment if corrosion’s there too. During care

Refitting’s

and pull out the split pins with pliers.

you

take

shaft. to check

road wheels. (For jacking up and changing a wheel see In An Emergency). Fold in the ends of the two large

or on the ends of the main battery

this has occurred,

terminals are retained by a single self-tapping screw or pinch bolt, depending on the type), release the clamp

your

the

split pins, then press down

down. From

the

different types of caliper are used, the procedures for

wheels

case,

release

Check brake pad condition

electrolyte

loss of (unlikely unless the casing’s cracked) or an either

forget

A very light smear

checking and renewal

In

renewed,

All models have disc front brakes and although two

If the battery's

on charge recently, leave it for an hour or two if

fault.

be

(grooved)

don’t

you can, as it warms up when being charged. If one cell has a low reading it indicates internal

to

the splined

straightforward,

Wiper arm attachment

4.

has

spring clip using a small screwdriver, then pull the end

new

pads can

that they move the

early calipers

and

ensure

uppermost

that

now

be fitted, but make

sure

into position freely and don’t jam. On don’t the

forget

cutaway

the anti-squeal part

of

the

shims,

pistons

is

before the pads go in. On the later calipers,

a15,

Vo Removing a split pin from the brake caliper

le ROA

Rear brake adjuster

Components of tixed type caliper

1 2 3 4

Brake pads Pad retaining spring Split pins Rubber dust seal Piston fluid seal Piston Bleed nipple

5) 6 7 8 Main caliper & Rim caliper 1 O Holes for caliper mounting bolts 11 Anti-squeal shims

Components of swinging caliper 7

2 Sj

4

5 6 7 8

56

Friction pads Retaining pins Pad retaining spring Piston dust seal Piston Piston fluid seal Piston cylinder Piston assembly retaining clip

SERVICE make

sure the pad operated

SCENE

by the piston is free to

move in the caliper. Fit the pad retaining springs and split pins; if any parts are damaged or corroded, renew them as soon as you possibly can. On the later type calipers, slacken the nut next to the pivot pin boss, press pads

the on

brake

pedal

several

the disc, then

times

to centralize

the

retighten the nut. The wheels

can now be fitted and the car lowered Don’t forget to check the reservoir completion, and to refit the cap.

to the ground. fluid level on

7. Check rear brake adjustment, travel and handbrake operation

brake pedal

The

brake

pedal

travel and handbrake

lever travel

are automatically adjusted with the rear brakes. It’s only after a very high mileage that you're ever likely

to find that handbrake cables have stretched and need adjustment,

but

if it

does

happen

the

procedure’s

Upper swivel hub balljoint. Arrow shows grease nipple

quite straightforward. To adjust

the rear brakes, chock

securely and engage

the front wheels

first or reverse gear, then raise the

rear of the car. With

the handbrake

car supported

remove

you've

got

adjuster

firmly,

better

on

each

access

the rear wheels so that

to

backplate

released and the

the

adjusters.

clockwise

Turn

(as seen

the from

the centre line of the car) until the brakes lock against the drum and prevent it from turning. Now slacken each

adjuster

until

the

wheels

will

raise

the

handbrake

lever

joint.

This

movement balljoints man

will

be seen

if it’s there which

and,

is either

Haynes

1100/1300

Owner’s

the

brake

by the

by means

of the

adjustment nuts on the handbrake lever trunnion.

When you're satisfied with the adjustment, refit the rear wheels and lower the car to the ground, and everything should be OK for another 3000 miles.

bushes

your

needs another

person

so grab yourself a passer-by or borrow

mother-in-law

for

a

few

minutes.

The

weight

needs to be on the front wheels, and if you haven't got an inspection

pit, you'd

of these faults must

that’s

Leyland

to

steering road age,

outer

get underneath

ball

detect any lost movement between the and the tie-rods by checking whether movement

of the steering wheel before the start to turn. This is a little difficult to

is present,

for wear

joints

(the

and

look

tie-rods

at the

are those

Check for leakage from steering rack With

the rack,

of oil leakage.

front

of the

particularly

car

still raised, check the

at the gaiters for any signs

If there is any, again it means the steer-

ing rack coming out, not only to fit new gaiters but to

top up the oil. Very laborious indeed dealer or workshop

Ask

If

exchange steering rack is almost certainly required.

gaiters

them).

to occur.

we're sorry to have to tell you that an

things coming out of the steering rack with big rubber on

delay, either

to the Owner's

better lift the car and lower

Now, with the able-bodied assistant

seat, end

or by reference

but is the least likely point

wear

steering

driver's

be put right without

man

check, particularly if there’s any other play in the link-

the car may

in the

arms,

wheel

wheels

9

tierod

it’s coming from - it could be

ends of the suspension

Workshop Manual. One further check is on the steering rack itself, and

the front wheels on to concrete blocks or ramps. Don’t forget the handbrake and rear wheel chocks, or move.

where

the steering ball joints (ball pins) or the bearings. Any

there’s any

8. Check steering and front suspension for wear of this check

for the

the suspension. Hold each front wheel in turn at the top and bottom, and try to rock it. If there’s any

it’s on

check

first part

Manual

until

at the inner

The

Workshop

and proceed with the suspension balljoint check.

the

for assistance,

new

Leyland

models. You can let your assistant go now,

movement,

this is done

need

a job for the local

or, if you think you're up to doing it yourself, it’s

all in the

third notch of the ratchet. If the handbrake’s adjusted it should just be possible to turn the rear wheels, an equal amount of force being required for each wheel. If you find that adjustment of the handis needed,

as up-and-down

Raise the front of the car off the ramps so that the front wheels are hanging under their own weight on

properly

lever

mostly

if it is, you'll

just rotate freely,

and the job’s done. Now

the

passer-by

or

mother-in-law

to

move the steering wheel backwards and forwards until resistance is felt each way, then check for slackness in

manual

(and a Leyland

job) but if it’s not attend-

ed to you'll end up buying an exchange which will be a lot more expensive.

steering rack

57

SERVICE SCENE

10 Lubricate steering joints

11 Check drive shaft joints

With the front of the car still raised, get out the grease

gun

and

position

yourself,

one

side

or the

other, in front of the grease nipples. These are just behind the brake calipers, one on the top joint and one on the bottom, with the same on the other side of the car. Wipe the dirt from the nipples with a clean cloth then give about four strokes of general purpose grease to each nipple. Don’t push too much in, it only seeps out; if you

nipple’s blocked,

can’t get any grease in, it means

blocked

or the joint’s full.

it can be unscrewed

that the

If the nipple is

and soaked

in petrol, or

you can try holding it in a vice and forcing grease through it. If all this fails, a new nipple should be fitted.

With the front of the car still raised and a gear engaged, rotate each front wheel back and forth and see if you

can detect any lost movement

in either of

the joints on each drive shaft. This can be a bit tricky to

check,

because

the

transmission

gears

will

have

some free play too, but once you've got down to the job you'll understand the problem. Try holding the shaft one side of the joint when turning the wheel; this way you'll see and feel any play. Also try moving the shaft up-and-down or side-to-side either side of the joint - this will also show up any play. When you’ve been driving the car, you may have noticed the occasional ‘clonk’ from the front end somewhere. This happens when changing or engaging a gear, or when cornering sharply, and it’s typical of a worn drive shaft joint. Where play is found, a new drive shaft or joints will be required. The procedure’s given in the Owner's Workshop Manual; otherwise it’s a job for the local Leyland man. One last check is to make sure that the rubber boots on the joints are OK. If there’s any sign of grease seeping out, get it seen to straight away before the joint dries out.

12 Check condition of exhaust system Keeping the front of the car raised, get underneath and examine the exhaust system and the attachment

brackets.

Look for signs of serious corrosion and loose

joints; where they are present you'll get leakage sooner or later, which not only means excessive noise but also that poisonous fumes can get into the car. If you can’t get to the tail end of the exhaust system, either jack up the rear of the car later on, or combine this Driveshaft joint rubber boot

with items 13/14 which may also mean jacking up the rear. Small exhaust holes or gashes can often be repaired

Door (1) and body (2) drain holes

SjapOW OOF 1/OOL 1 UO Sjuawabuese ysneyxa jedidA]

59

Brake hydraulic pipe-runs

60

SERVICE SCENE using one of the proprietary sealing products, but it’s sometimes difficult to make a lasting repair. Follow the makers’ instructions when using this type of thing.

the

At the same time, check the seat belts - not only webbing and buckles, but the anchorage points,

Particularly

appearing,

13 Check clear

that door and body drain holes are

mean

you

those

on

the

floor.

If there’s

have a word with the Leyland

any

rust

man; it may

that reinforcement plates will have to be fitted if

With the car still raised at the front (you may have

want them to pull out of the floor. Check the tightness of any securing bolts, and where inertia

to raise it a bit higher at the sides or towards the rear -

reel belts are fitted, check that they operate correctly.

it depends how agile you are), get a piece of stiff wire ~ and make

sure that all the door and body

drain holes

are

clear of mud, leaves, underseal, etc. If this isn’t done, anything that’s there will retain moisture and before you know where you are you'll have a rust problem on your hands.

don’t

If belts are badly

frayed,

or are

known

to have pro-

vided restraint during a serious acicdent, they may not do their job properly when

needed to. Think about it, -

wouldn’t it be worthwhile like this?

fitting new ones in a case

17 Check rear view mirror(s)

14 Check all fuel and hydraulic lines for leakage, corrosion and damage. With

the front of the car still raised, crawl under-

neath

and

pipes,

working

examine

the run of the fuel and hydraulic

from

the back

of the car

forward.

If

you

can’t see everything at the back, do the job in two stages and raise the back end for better access. The rigid pipes last a long time but can become damaged through corrosion or by stones being thrown up. The flexible

few

pipes are the ones

years’

braking

service

and

(like

clutch

which

all the

systems,

deteriorate rubber

including

after a

parts

in the

the hydraulic

cylinder seals). Look for signs of dampness or bulging; they’!Il stand quite a Jot of pulling about so don’t think you'll cause any damage during checking - if you do, you’ve

done

yourself

a

favour

because

they

were

about to fail anyway. The car can at last be lowered to the ground and you can continue checking the pipes in the engine compartment. Don’t forget the flexible clutch slave cylinder pipe. You've now got to the end of the really dirty jobs, so it might be an idea to clean yourself up a bit at this point!

15 Check bolt This

doesn’t

tightness

job

takes

matter.

of steering column

no

The

time

clamp

at all, but

don’t

bolt is located

clamp think

under

it

the

facia and if ever allowed to come

loose will give exces-

sive

Just

movement

of

the

column.

check

that

it’s

tight; don't try to shear it off.

Check sure

the operation they’re

of all the seat adjusters, and

securely

attached

to the floor and

seat frame. Clean off any dirt that may have collected round the moving parts, and apply a spot of lubricating oil to all the pivoting and sliding surfaces. Don't use too much, it just collects more dirt and dust, and encourages things to stick.

period

of time

so, if new

ones

are

needed,

why

not

treat yourself?

18 Lubricate locks and catches Apply contact

a drop

or two of oil to all the moving and

hinges and locks, bonnet hinges, lock and safety catch, and boot or tailgate hinges and lock. Wipe off any surplus as it collects dirt

and

points

marks

of the door

the paintwork

if it’s left to run.

Lubricate

the lock barrels by applying a little oil to the key and inserting it two

or three times.

Wipe the key and lock

barrel afterwards to remove any surplus. Smear a little general purpose grease to the lock contact points of the

striker

plates on the door

pillars. Again, wipe off

the surplus now with a rag - not on your best suit later -on!

19 Lubricate carburettor controls Apply

and

a drop or two

pivot

points

of

of oil to the control

the

carburettor(s).

linkage

There

are

several different set-ups, so you'll need to check exactly what you've got on your car but generally speaking if it moves,

lubricate

it. Also

apply

a drop

to the

accelerator pedal pivot.

20 Check headlight beam alignment Without

optical

measuring

equipment

it’s impos-

sible to set the headlight beams accurately, so this is a job

16 Check condition of seats and seat belts make

Another quickie, but make sure that they’re clean, securely fitted and give a good reflection. Outside mirrors particularly lose their ‘silvering’ after a long

for any suitably equipped garage. Unless there’s been some accident damage, or a light unit has been renewed, the alignment is unlikely to have altered. A temporary adjustment can be made if you find that the illumination’s poor or if other drivers flash their headlights at you at night, but get them checked

properly as soon as possible. The headlight adjustment

screws

are

headlamp Emergency.

shown unit

in the

renewal

illustration instructions

accompanying - see /n An

61

—.

Engine oil filter - manual transmission 7

2 3

4

5 6 7

Sump drain plug (arrowed)

Filter element Seating plate Seating washer Steel washer Spring Warning light switch Filter retaining bolt

Engine oil filter - automatic transmission Filter element Circlip Stee/ washer Sealing ring Centre bolt

1st type (short element (1) and long spring (6))

6

Spring Sealing washer

Sealing plate Filter head retaining bolts Oil pressure check plug

2nd type (longer element (1) and shorter spring (6))

SERVICE SCENE

EVERY

6000

MILES

OR

6 MONTHS

WHICHEVER COMES FIRST (in addition to the Weekly and 3000 miles Schedules) The following tools, lubricants, etc., are likely to be needed:

Sump drain plug spanner, oil can, feeler gauges, tachometer. and stroboscopic timing light (if available), spark piug spanner, miscellaneous spanners and screwdrivers. Multigrade

engine

oil,

oil

can,

petroleum

jelly,

general purpose grease. Oil filter element, air cleaner element.

7 Change engine oil and filter Oil changes should only be made when the engine is warm, as this ailows the oil to drain out more quickly and take most of the impurities with it. So, if it’s not warm, drive around for a mile or two - this is better than leaving a cold engine idling because less wear takes place. Now get a suitable container which will fit beneath the sump. It’s got to be fairly shallow, and at the same time hold about a gallon of oil - a plastic washing-up bowl’s the sort of thing that will do the job otherwise you’ll end up raising the front of the car to clear the container which may mean that not all the oil will drain out. Now prepare yourself for the dirty part. Lie on the ground and remove the drain plug. You’re going to get oil on your fingers, and possibly all over your hand (try not to let it run all up your arm as well!) so do it as quickly as possible. If you should drop the drain

plug in the container,

don’t forget it’s there - you're going to need it later on. The draining operation will take about 15 minutes so you can now think about the filter. Automatic and manual transmission models have different arrangements, but the procedure’s much the same. You'll need another small container to catch the oil in the filter bowl; this holds something

like a pint. Remove

the filter bowl retaining bolt, grasp the bowl with both hands and pull it away, allowing the oil to pour into the container. On automatic transmission models, where the coil’s mounted above the generator, it will be necessary to remove the clamp bolt from the generator so that the filter bowl can be pulled off. Remove the old filter element and the associated parts, taking care

the element and drain plug, with and paraffin can and dirt if there’s

not to lose anything.

Throw away

clean all the other bits including the a lint-free cloth. An old paint brush be used to remove any congealed oil any around.

When all the parts are clean, reassemble the filter bowl using a new element. By now all the oil should have drained, so check that the old seal ring has come away from the filter head on the engine.

one (it comes

If not, remove it and put the new

with the new filter element) in position,

smearing it with grease to hold it in place. Fit the new filter assembly and tighten the bolt, then wipe around with

a cloth to remove

the drain plug hole washer’s undamaged, any oil with the rag. Now add the new _ mark on the dipstick, for about

a minute.

any old oil, etc. Wipe around

as well, check that the sealing and refit the plug. Wipe away

oil to bring it up to the ‘MAX’ and run the engine at a fast idle Recheck

the

oil

level and add

Air cleaners on single carburettor models (typical) A B

Winter position Summer position

1 2

Cover retaining nuts Clamp

3

Intake pipe

SERVICE SCENE

Twin carburettor air cleaner (typical) A

more

as necessary

to bring

it back

Winter position

B

Summer position

up to the ‘MAX’

mark again. There’s always a problem with disposing of old oil, but if you buy it in a 5-litre can you can put the old oil in there and let the dustmen take it away. An alternative is to get some similar type of container and dispose of it in the same old oil off your own

way.

Some

garages will take

hands - they've got to get rid of their

and it’s often collected

for recycling or used ina

special type of workshop heater.

2

Renewair cleaner element (if necessary) The

air cleaner

element

is normally

renewed

at

intervals of 12,000 miles or 12 months, but under very dusty

conditions

quently.

it’s advisable

to renew

it more

fre-

If you're in doubt, check whether there’s any

dirt build-up inside the air cleaner housing.

it’s a good idea to renew

If there is,

Topping up carburettor dashpot

the element; the procedure’s

given in the 12,000 mile Schedule.

3

Check oil level in carburettor dashpot(s) The

oil

in the

dashpot

piston and ensures

smooth

ing.

small

Unscrew

the

acts

as a damper

for the

and progressive fuel meter-

knurled

plastic

cap

on

the

carburettor and add a little engine oil, if necessary, to

bring the level % in (13 mm) hollow

piston

rod.

Refit

the

above the top of the cap:

where

applicable

repeat this for the other carburettor.

4

Examine cooling system hoses Although

coolant, condition

64

there

it’s a good

may

be

no

idea to very

of the hoses.

Press them

leakage carefully

of

engine

check

the

and squeeze them,

and check for signs of cracking or perishing. Renew any that show even the slightest sign that they might give trouble in the future. More information’s given in

Distributor contact breaker points. Arrows show fixed contact securing screw, and adjusting notch

SERVICE SCENE

The one-piece contact set used on later models

7. 2 3 4

Points Pivot spindle Cam Contact breaker plate oil hole

the 24,000-mile Service Schedule and refilling of the cooling system.

5

5 6 7 8

covering

draining

The

spark in the

behind

the

plugs are some

of the more

accessible

fibreboard

cover

on

they’re

later models,

which

from a lot of road dirt, etc. Pull

off the plug caps; if you think you won’t know where each

one

belongs

Paint.on

each

when

you

put them

back, a little

the cable or plug cap can be used to identify

-

remember

breaker points and lubricate

Occurs

1100/1300, engine compartment;

helps to protect them

6 Clean contact distributor

After a period of time, due to the sparking which across them, the contact breaker points will

Clean spark plugs

items

Screw head on cam Contact plate securing screw Adjustment notch for screwdriver Terminal nut

that

No.

1 cylinder’s

nearest

the

radiator. Check that there’s no dirt around the plugs, which might fall into the engine, then remove each plug using the proper spark plug spanner. For cleaning use a thin wire brush and a penknife

blade, but take care not to

need cleaning. A build-up occurs on one contact and a small crater appears in the other one; the electrical resistance of the contacts increases too. These things

lead to starting problems and a general fall-off in the efficiency of the ignition system. To clean the contacts, snap off the spring clips and

take off the distributor cap (beneath the fibreboard cover

on

later models, but earlier ones have a rubber

cover over the distributor cap); next pull off the rotor

arm. Unscrew the terminal nut, (taking care that it doesn’t drop inside the distributor!) and the steel nut under it if there is one. Remove the top flanged bush, and the condenser and low tension (LT) lead; you can

set of plugs makes life easier - you can fit these straight away and clean the ones you've just taken out

now lift off the moving contact. Remove the fibre washer or lower flanged bush, then the screw and washer (don’t drop them), and lift out the other contact.

at your leisure. Wipe the plug insulators

carborundum

damage central

the surface finish of the insulator around the electrode; this will

lead to misfiring.

A spare

To

with

a petrol-moistened

reface

cloth, and see that the screw thread is clean. Check the

that

electrode

gap

thickness

(see Vita/ Statistics)

contacts flat and

using

a feeler

gauge

of the

specified

and if necessary

bend

metal

the

stone

isn’t

contacts,

rub

or fine emery

removed

from

them

cloth.

one

on a

fine

Take

care

edge

of

the

because when they’re fitted they need to be parallel, or very slightly domed so that they

the outer electrode to correct it. Never try to bend the central electrode - all you'll achieve is a broken insu-

touch at their mid points. Make sure that the contact faces are very smooth when they've been rubbed down

lator.

or they'll rapidly wear and burn. Refitting’s now in the reverse

When the plugs are clean and reset, check that the seating on the block is clean and that the washer’s on

the

plug.

Apply

a drop

threads then tighten them

or two down

of oil to the plug firmly - but no white

knuckles or bulging cheeks, you’ve got to get them out again one day! Don’t bother to fit the plug leads yet, because you'll need them off for the next job.

The

illustration

shows

the

order of removal.

later type contact set, the

only real difference with the earlier type being a flat insulating washer beneath the moving contact arm rather than a flanged nylon bush and a washer beneath the nut. Lightly tighten the securing screw then engage top gear and push the car a little so that the heel of

65

SERVICE SCENE Using a knife or a fine file, clean off any deposits

the moving contact is on one of the peaks of the cam (on

automatics,

pulley

hole

you'll

have

to

turn

the

crankshaft

with a spanner or insert a screwdriver in the in the converter housing to engage one of the

notches - see the illustration). Now,

out with the feeler gauges

again and select

from the rotor and metal electrodes in the distributor cap.

Wipe

the cap

clean,

and check

that

the spring

behind the central carbon electrode is still effective. Wipe the plug leads and caps clean, and check that they’re all in good condition; if there’s any doubt, renew them without a second thought before they give

the size given in Vita/ Statistics for the points gap. Place the feeler between the contact faces and use a

you

screwdriver

and reconnect the plug leads in the correct order. Now

in the notch

to set the gap, rotating the

screwdriver a little one way

or the other as necessary.

trouble.

start the engine (just to make sure that it does!).

The feeler should be a firm sliding fit when the points are set; tighten the screw and recheck the gap. Now apply a trace of petroleum jelly to the cam profile,

7

one

pivot spindle,

contact

two

drops on the screw head on top of the cam, and drops through the hole in the contact breaker plate to lubricate the advance weights.

ignition

three or four

occurs.

drop

of oil to the moving contact

Fit the rotor and cap to the distributor,

Check ignition timing As the contact has been

timing

heel wears, or after

- the

moment

If you

at

which

the

use a stroboscopic

spark

(that’s with the

is easily done, and this method want

a new

be a slight shift of

Checking the timing statically

engine stopped) cribed.

breaker

fitted, there may

is des-

a more accurate setting, you must

light (this is dynamic

light will be supplied with operating

timing); the

instructions

and

you'll find it quite easy to use but, if you haven't got one, dynamic timing’s a job for the Leyland man again.

Ignition timing marks will be found by looking through the small window on the torque converter or flywheel housing (there may be a small inspection plate which

(remember

has to be removed). Rotate the crankshaft

how

we did it when

checking

the points

gap?) until the 1/4 or O mark aligns with the mark on the cover. If you can’t see it properly, use a mirror. You're now at top-dead-centre (TDC) for number 1 or 4 piston on its firing stroke, (It doesn’t matter which, but

if you

electrode

Distributor clamp bolt and

adjuster (arrowed)

Vernier timing

want in the

to find out distributor

you cap

must

check

the rotor’s

which

pointing

to). The engine Now

static will

ignition

be found

setting

in the

rotate the crankshaft

for

your

Vita/ Statistics

particular Chapter.

or flywheel in the opposite

Ignition timing marks - manual transmission

The timing marks 1/4 (TDC), 5° , 10° and

15° BTDC are on the flywheel. They may be seen, together with the indicator, with the aid of

a mirror after removing the plate (arrowed)

66

SERVICE SCENE

Ignition timing marks - automatic transmission a)

a

‘A

On early models the TDC position is

Seana

eRe Meg:

indicated by the 1/4 mark (Inset A)

with 5° and 10° marks also provided.

1c] Bl

b) On later models each degree from 20° BTDC to 10° ATDC is marked.

K\ % \\

c) The hole in converter housing (Inset B)

Pees

“5

10\5

Sar 7

PNA HTTHI

BEFORE AFTER Y /

is used for inserting screwdriver to turn the converter.

direction

to normal

rotation

by about

5° more

than

sory market, and if you’re going to use one follow the

this static ignition timing setting (say 10° to 15° alto-

maker’s instructions carefully.

If you

gether - the exact amount’s

the job is best left to someone

who

not critical). Remove

distributor cap; the points will

now

the

be closed but if

the

local

Leyland

man

haven't got one, has - for example

or carburettor

specialist.

you slowly turn the engine in the normal direction of rotation they'll open. Stop rotating at the precise

single carburettors, the procedure’s now explained.

instant

operating

the

points

commence

to open

and check

the

marking on the scale - this is the static timing and if everything’s OK it should correspond to that quoted in

Vital

Statistics

for

your

model.

If the

setting

Obtained is too near to TDC you'll have to advance the ignition, either by means of the knurled wheel adjuster on the distributor (in the ‘A’ direction) or by loosening the distributor clamp bolt and turning it clockwise

For

a start

you

must

temperature

have

the engine

so a run of two

For

at normal

or three miles

will be needed before you can start. While you’re getting your tools etc ready, leave the engine idling for a few more minutes. On automatic models the handbrake must be firmly on and ‘N’ selected. If you’ve got

a tachometer,

briefly

switch

the engine

off and

connect it up according to the maker’s instructions, then start the engine again. Turn the throttle adjusting

very slightly. If the setting’s too far from TDC, the opposite action is required. You'll probably find it difficult to judge exactly

screw

when the points are opening,

check the mixture strength by raising the piston lifting pin about 1/32 in after it contacts the piston; if the

round fitted

this. with

but there’s an easy way

All you need is a 12V bulb in a holder leads and crocodile clips. Connect one

to get the specified

got a tachometer

but

point,

ately

other

to the

moving

contact

spring,

then turn on the ignition. At the instant of the points

the test the job

if it’s too

decrease;

weak

if it’s too

the speed will immedi-

rich the speed

will increase

and continue to do so,

opening, the bulb will light up and remain alight until the points close again. Don’t forget to switch off ignition when you've finished and remove the lamp if you’re using one. When you're happy with timing, refit the distributor cap and that’s another

Now

mi xture’s correct the engine speed should increase only

momentarily;

the

(if you haven’t

this setting’s fairly critical on automatics).

crocodile clip to the distributor body or a good earth

and

idle speed

an intelligent guess will have to do,

the

If mixture adjustment’s necessary, carefully turn jet adjusting nut at the base of the carburettor

downwards

mixture. time,

to

Never

and

rev

richen,

turn

or

upwards

the nut

the engine

more

to

weaken,

the

than one flat at a

a little before

rechecking,

finished.

using the piston lifting pin.

8

Check idle speed and mixture settings

The fast idle speed needs to be checked now, but first ensure that with the choke knob pressed fully in, there’s about 1/16 in free movement before the cable

Two adjustments are provided on SU carburettors,

begins to pull on the lever. Pull out the knob about %

one for the mixture (air/petrol ratio) and the other for the idle speed (minimum throttle opening). With twin

in (13 mm)

and wedge

it in this position,

then adjust

the fast idle screw to give the specified fast idle speed. Now push in the choke knob and check that there’s a

carburettors, adjustment’s a little difficult and will need to be done using some form of flow balancing

small

device. There are many of these available on the acces-

the cam.

clearance

between

the fast idle cam

screw and

67

SERVICE SCENE

9

Check clutch lever return stop setting This check’s necessary to make sure that the clutch

doesn’t

start

checked

and reset, so don’t neglect to do it; the clutch

lever arm

to

slip as

is connected

Pull the operating

wear

takes

place.

It’s easily

to the slave cylinder pushrod. lever outwards

and use a feeler

gauge to check for a gap of 0.020 in between the lever

and the head of the adjustment bolt. Loosen the locknut and reposition the bolt, if necessary; recheck the gap after tightening the locknut.

70 Lubricate dynamo rear bearing Apply two or three drops of engine oil to the rear bearing of the dynamo (where applicable). There’s not much

Typical SU carburettor

Idle speed (throttle) adjusting screw Suction chamber

17 Lubricate

Jet adjusting nut (mixture) Piston lifting pin Wh QA Fast idle adjusting screw

room to get at it, but an oil can with a cranked

spout will do the job.

Raise

the handbrake

cables and linkage

the car at one side and support

that you can get underneath

it firmly so

to the handbrake cables.

Using your fingers, smear some general purpose grease on to all the pivoting, sliding and linkage points of the handbrake cables to prevent wear and corrosion

setting in. You can leave the car raised after doing this because it'll give you a better view of the tyres for the next check.

12 Check tyre wear pattern With wards

the car

on

If you

still raised

on

one

the other side) check

side

(then after-

the tyre wear pattern.

find the front ones wearing more than the rear,

you can reverse them if you wish, but you

may end up

with all four wearing out at the same time and that’s hard on the wallet. If the front ones are wearing unevenly

1 2

Handbrake cable lubrication points Cable guide channel 3 Clevis pin Swivel sector pivot

it’s a good idea to have the front suspension

alignment

checked;

the

cost

compared with prematurely

the

isn’t

worn

excessive

when

out tyres.

When you've finished checking, lower the car to ground and congratulate yourself on another

service schedule expertly completed!

EVERY 12,000 MILES OR 12 MONTHS WHICHEVER COMES FIRST (in addition to the 6000-mile Schedules)

Weekly,

The following tools, lubricants,

3000-mile

and

etc., are likely to be

needed:

Feeler

gauges,

grease

and screwdrivers, hub nuts.

gun,

socket

miscellaneous or box

spanner

spanners for rear

Air cleaner element, set of spark plugs, distributor

68

Clutch return stop bolt and locknut. Arrow shows where gap should be set

contact breaker points, general purpose grease.

Rocker

cover

gasket, oil filler cap

(later models),

SERVICE SCENE holding the central screw with a screwdriver to stop it turning. Now turn the screw with the screwdriver to obtain the correct gap, tighten the locknut while holding the screw firmly, and check again. Repeat this if necessary. Having done No. 1 valve the remainder can be adjusted in the same way, preferably in the order given below, as it saves too much rotating of the crankshaft.

Valve fully open

Check & Adjust Valve No. 1 Niet Hy 3 aN 5 verve 2

Valve No. 8

me al eee non a

fuel filter nuts.

(some

models),

split pins for rear hub

1 Check valve clearances Valve clearances

be correct for the engine to

properly - that is to take in the correct of fuel/air mixture at precisely the right

moment,

and

Procedure though

must

then

get rid of the exhaust

for checking

gases. The

on all models is the same, al-

there are slight differences

in the approach

to

the job because of different piping arrangements. First, make

a note of the piping attached to your

particular rocker cover engine), then carefully

Now

on

and

sticking

rocker a good

cover blow

remove take

with

the two large nuts

the

cover

the ball of the

off; if it’s hand

will

move it but don’t be too brutal. Now you’ re going to need to turn the engine, and in this instance the easiest way is to jack up one front wheel off the ground (apply the handbrake firmly first) and engage top gear.

Turning

the wheel

in the normal

direction

of travel

the crankshaft

eee

2

oe

To help memorise the numbers

in this way

and

watch

the

rockers moving up and down, at the same time comp-

ressing and decompressing the valve springs. Starting No. 1 valve (nearest the radiator) position the

with

the hose(s) to the cover and run the engine, checking for oil leaks around the gasket seal.

2 Service crankcase breather system An air filter is incorporated in the oil filler cap on later cars; also some cars have a wire gauze filter in a combined breather and flywheel housing. Where

Some models also have a crankcase breather control valve. If your car’s one of these, spring the clip to One them

side,

take

end)

will be fully

compressed. Using the correct size feeler gauge (0.012 in) slide it between the end of the No. 1 valve stem and the rocker arm. If the clearance is correct, the feeler will be a firm sliding fit; if it’s too tight or too

slacken

the

hexagon

the component

locknut

while

parts

and

clean

and

parts can first be boiled in water for a few the parts are all clean, refit them in the

spring on

the retaining clip. Now run the engine at idle speed then remove the oil filler cap; the speed should increase. a little, but if it doesn’t the breather valve’s either incorrectly assembled or faulty (possibly a ruptured diaphragm).

loose, adjustment will be needed.

adjust,

valve

out

in petrol. If the deposits are difficult to remove,

the metal

opposite

oil separator fitted to the the latter is fitted, pull off

the detachable cap and wash the gauze in petrol. Shake it dry and refit it. Where there’s a filter in the oil filler cap, the

minutes. When

To

this table, note that in each case

With the valve clearances all correct, it’s a good idea to renew the gasket beneath the rocker cover. Take off the old one and make sure that the seating surface on the cylinder head and rocker cover are clean, then put the new one in place. Don’t use gasket sealant - if necessary a little grease can be used to hold it in place. Refit the cover and pinch up the nuts; don’t overtighten them or the cover may distort. Refit

8 valve

(at the

y

of the valves open and closed always add

engine so that the spring’s fully open; at this point No.

spring

a

complete cap must be renewed.

will now rotate the engine surprisingly easily.

Rotate

LT ere ee 6 “om 4

(the tin box on top of the unclip the pipes and move

them out of the way. the

ol 3 5

up to 9.

You may also need: Set of brake shoes

breathe amount

eae ee nom

renewed individually.

Parts for this can be

69

SERVICE

SCENE

Oil filler cap and breather control valve

Spring clip Cover Diaphragm Metering needle

Spring Cruciform guides DaARWBNH™

3

Clean brake servo filter

If your car’s got a brake servo, carefully prise the dome from the valve cover using a screwdriver. Take

out the filter and clean it with compressed air froma foot pump (actually, a garage type compressed air line

is preferable, and it won’t take more than a minute or two on the forecourt if you feel like doing it that way). When refitting, make sure that the spring’s securely located in the valve, then refit the filter and snap on the cover.

4

Renewair cleaner element Several different types of air cleaner are in use but

they’re all basically the same; they have a paper-type element in a metal housing with an air intake pipe.

Unscrew the wing nut(s) or bolt(s) on the cover, take the cover off and take out the element. Clean the container with a lint-free cloth, making sure that no

dirt gets into the carburettor

intake(s).

1

Brake servo filter Snap-on cover (remove with screwdriver blade)

2

Filter

element and refit the cover.

7

5 Fit new spark plugs All the information

6000-mile

new

plugs are

and

are

Champion

Service the

correctly plugs

for this job will be found in Schedule. Make sure that the

right type

gapped. always

obtained are recommended

6

70

for your

If

make

particular car,

you're sure

Spring

Clean fuel pump or filter If your

the

3

Fit the new

not

that

buying the

type

equivalents.

Fitnewcontact breaker points

All the information for this job will be found in the 6000-mile Service Schedule.

car has a mechanical

fuel pump,

mounted

on the carburettor side of the engine at the front, remove the three cover retaining screws then take the cover and joint washer off. Clean any sediment from the

pump inlet chamber then refit the joint washer and cover. Run the engine and check for leaks although not very likely, it may be necessary to renew the joint washer.

If your car has an electric pump, the filter’s inside and not really accessible without removing the pump. This job’s covered for these models.

in the Owner's

Workshop

Manual

SERVICE SCENE Some models have a separate in-line filter which be renewed. Simply loosen the fuel pipe clips, pull off the pipes and fit a new filter. Don’t forget to must

check for fuel leaks afterwards. NOTE: Don’t have lighted cigarettes or naked flames around while working on any part of the fuel system.

8

Lubricate speedometer cable The

speedometer cable is a two-part affair, joined in the middle and running from behind the speedometer, through the engine compartment bulkhead, along the side of the engine to the transmission. The joining union’s at the radiator end of the engine against the bulkhead. Separate wipe them

the

two

parts,

pull

out

the

cables

and

clean with a petrol-moistened cloth. Smear

a little general purpose

grease over the cables, except for the last 8 inches or so at the speedometer end to

1

Screws

Mechanical fuel pump

4

Fuel inlet pipe

avoid getting grease inside the instrument. Refit the cables, turning them if necessary to get the end fittings

2 3

Cover Joint washer

5

Fuel outlet pipe

to engage, then reconnect the outer cable halves.

9

Lubricate water pump bearing (early models) On

behind

early type water the pulley.

pumps

there’s a grease plug

unscrew it and apply the end of the grease gun to the threaded hole. Give it two or three strokes of the gun but don’t try to use too much

If your

car’s got one,

pressure

or you

may

damage the

internal seals. Refit the plug afterwards.

10 Check rear brake linings Unfortunately, although this seems a basic and fundamental part of routine servicing, it’s not really a job that can be done properly without

a 15/16 in AF tubular or socket spanner which will fit the hub nut. Also, there may be difficulty in removing the brake

drum.

If you

think you can get over these problems,

The in-line fuel filter used on some models. Arrows show direction of flow

% Rear brake backplate showing handbrake cable

72 ~~‘linkage

Speedometer cable jointing sleeve (arrowed)

SERVICE SCENE

Taking out the split pin prior to removing hub nut

As then

a see

precaution,

slacken

if the brake

drum

won't but may come

off the

brake

adjuster

will pull off. It probably

free by tapping around the edge

with a good sized piece of wood; levering isn’t recommended

because

you

may

damage

the backplate.

No

luck yet? Then try refitting the wheel and use a fairly vigorous rocking action which

should

loasen the hub;

try a few blows from the piece of wood, if necessary,

on the inside of the wheel near the brake drum. If this won’t do the job it looks as though you're back to the

Leyland

man

might work

again, although

there is something that

for early models.

The spare wheel used to

be retained in the boot by a cup-shaped piece of metal

“ and a screw. If you can fit this between the wheel and the brake drum so that it contacts the end of the hub

shaft, then tighten the wheel

Lifting off the brake drum

on to the brake drum,

you should be able to pull the drum off. By now you'll either have given up or got the drum off, so let’s assume

the latter. Dust out the drum with

an old clean paint brush or a clean lint-free cloth (try there

shouldn’t

trouble, Raise do)

until

be anything

else

to

cause

you

any

the

rear

one

of the car

wheel

is clear

(one side at a time will

of the

ground.

Don’t

forget to chock the front wheels and engage first gear, and make

sure that the handbrake is released. Remove

the

wheel,

road

then

use

a screwdriver

to carefully

prise off the grease cap from the centre of the brake drum. Using pliers, unfold the ends of the split pin in the

you

hub

not to inhale the dust). If the linings aren’t worn down to the limit (see Vita/ Statistics), check that there are

nut

and

haven’t

got

draw

a

the pin out.

spanner

that

If you

will

now

find

fit the

nut

no signs of hydraulic

fluid leakage and put everything

back; this is described later in the Section. If there should be signs of fluid leakage, the wheel cylinders must be overhauled or renewed; this is a job described in the Owner’s Workshop Manual or otherwise should be left to the Leyland man. If the shoes need renewing, don’t despair, it’s not too difficult. Using pliers, press in the steady spring washers,

turn

them

and

remove

them

from

the pins;

properly, don’t go any further but put everything back

remove

and leave the job to the local Leyland man. Assuming

fitted behind the brake shoe webs. Now use a large screwdriver and lever the front shoe out of the slots in the adjuster and wheel cylinder piston, then repeat for the rear shoes. Detach the handbrake operating lever.

that things are OK remove the nut (left-hand thread on left-hand wheel) and washer, and prepare for problem No. 2 - that is, removing the brake drum.

the springs. Note that the pull off springs are

73

SERVICE SCENE Don’t touch

the brake pedal and take great care that

the pistons of the wheel cylinder don’t move

out, or

you'll need to bleed the brakes afterwards; they can be held in place by thick rubber bands or a piece of bent wire. Separate the

new

the shoes

ones;

affect braking.

don’t

from handle

the springs, them

then

or the

attach

grease

will

Now dust out the backplate then apply

a trace of grease to the high spots on the plate where the shoes touch, to the grooves in the adjuster and pistons,

and

to the

handbrake

lever contact

points.

Everything can now be refitted following the reverse of the removal procedure, but make sure the shoes go on the right way. Don’t forget the rubber band or wire on the wheel cylinder has to be removed, and don’t forget to fit the steady springs and washers.

With the brake

shoes

in position,

refit the drum,

washer and nut. Tighten the nut firmly you've

got a torque

These screws inside distributor cap secure the leads

(60 Ibf ft if

wrench), and fit a new split pin.

The rest of the procedure’s straightforward, but don’t

forget that the brake must be adjusted before you tackle the other side. If the grease cap or the area around the castellated nut doesn’t have much grease around

it, smear

the nut with general

purpose

grease;

there’s no need to fill the grease cap.

EVERY 24,000 MILES OR 2 YEARS, WHICHEVER COMES FIRST (in addition to the items previously listed) The following tools, lubricants, needed:

etc, are

likely to be

Miscellaneous spanners and screwdrivers Cooling system antifreeze You

may also need:

Distributor cap, rotor, conden-

Radiator drain plug

ser, set of ignition HT leads.

71 Renew

distributor rotor, condenser and cap

(if necessary) We've attended

to most

of the things in the igni-

tion system at regular intervals, but the rotor, cap and condenser

haven't

really

been

included

apart

from

keeping them clean. To keep the system in perfect tune, these items will now probably need renewing as well. The plug leads we've been keeping an eye on, but if your car has the carbon fibre type leads (i.e. they're

not wire renewed.

inside that insulation)

Fitting little screws

all these

items

74

is straightforward

inside the distributor

leads, and the condenser the flying lead attached LT lead.

2

these too should

cap retain

be

- those the HT

has one securing screw, with to the same terminal on the

Renew antifreeze in cooling system The antifreeze should be renewed every two years

Cylinder block drain plug (arrowed)

HT

SERVICE SCENE ‘ and the system

flushed through

just to make sure it

can do its job properly. To handy

drain

the

system,

place

a suitable

at the base of the radiator

container

(something like the

plastic washing up bowl used for draining the engine oil will do), then remove the drain plug (where there is one) or detach the radiator bottom hose. The coolant will start to flow out and now, if the radiator cap’s removed

and the heater control

position, will run out much

moved

to the ‘HOT’

faster. When

the flow has

stopped, open the cylinder block drain tap or remove the plug, to drain the block. When all the coolant has drained, get a can of water or a hosepipe, and run water through the system

to

remove

any

Proprietary

sediment

that

flushing compound

might

be

present.

A

can be used if you've

any suspicions of the system being blocked, but follow the

makers’

instructions.

When

you're

satisfied

that

the system’s clear, refit the drain plug(s) and hose, or

close the tap, but leave the heater control at ‘HOT’. Unless it’s winter it’s not absolutely essential to use antifreeze when refilling the system, but it’s preferable because of the corrosion inhibitors which all good antifreeze has. This can stay in the system for two years, and once it’sin there’s no need to take it out during warmer weather. Here’s a table which can be used as a guide to how much antifreeze is required for any 1100 or 1300 model: Commences _ Solution freezing at % CG F

—9 —13 =

16 9

20 25 30

that the brake fluid deterioriates after a long period in

service, as do the rubber parts (eg hoses, seals, etc). Don’t

neglect

a job like this, it’s for your safety and

everyone else’s too.

OTHER

REGULAR

SERVICING

“If you carry out the procedures we've detailed so far, at more or less the prescribed intervals of mileage or time,

then

you'll

have

gone

a long way

towards

getting the best out of your 1100 or 1300 in terms of both performance and long life. That’s the good news. The other kind is that there are always other areas, not

dealt with in regular servicing schedules, where neglect can spell trouble. We reckon a bit of extra time spent on your car at the beginning and end of the winter will be well repaid in terms of peace of mind and prevention

of trouble.

The suggested attentions which follow have therefore been

divided

into Spring

there’s nothing

and

to prevent

Autumn

sections

you doing them

- but

more

fre-

quently if you like!

SPRING We've put this one first as it’s less depressing than Autumn

-

though

there’s

probably

more

work

involved!

Underside of Car Quantity of antifreeze required

In Spring, we venture to suggest, the owner’s fancy

lightly turns to thoughts of cleaning off all the accumulated

1.75 pints (1.0 litre) 2 pints (1.1 litres) 2.25 pints (1.2 litres)

Having decided how much you need, the antifreeze

muck

Without

of

winter

a shadow

underneath

is the

from

of doubt,

worst

underneath

the

the best time

time

from

the

car.

to clean

discomfort

point of view - that is, when the car’s been driven in the wet and all the dirt’s nicely softened up. So let’s talk first about the easiest way out - steam cleaning or

idle to let the mixture circulate; as this happens the level may fall as airlocks are displaced, then will drop

pressure washing. These aren’t D-I-Y jobs, and can only be done at larger garages, usually those which undertake body repair jobs. You may feel this method is unnecessarily expensive, but it’s generally preferable to grovelling about underneath and getting filthy and

quite sharply

uncomfortable

can

be poured straight into the radiator followed by enough water to fill it; leave just a little antifreeze for adding to the expansion tank. Run the engine at a fast

when

the thermostat

opens.

Finally top

the radiator right up to the brim and fit the cap. Pour

owner

the remaining drop of antifreeze into the expansion tank and add a little water to bring the depth up to

water

about 2% in (65 mm). Just to check that there are no airlocks, run the car on the road for a short distance, then stop and allow the engine to cool, and recheck

who

You'll

doing

it yourself.

However,

for

the

really wants to do it by hand, here goes .... need

paraffin

(and preferably

or

a water-soluble

solvent,

a hose), a wire brush, a scraper

and a stiff-bristle brush. If you think the car floor may leak, remove the carpets or they'll get wet; this will also help you

pinpoint the places where

water's getting in.

the coolant level.

To start with, jack the car up as high as possible, preferably at one side or one end. For your own

3 Renew brake fluid and all rubber parts in brake hydraulic system

safety,

This is a job for the Leyland man, or for the more enthusiastic owner by following the procedures in the Owner’s Workshop Manual. The reason for doing it is

support

it on

ramps

or concrete

or wooden

blocks and chock the wheels which are on the ground. Unless

both

handbrake;

rear

wheels

are

raised,

also

apply

the

similarly, unless both front wheels are off

the ground, engage first or reverse gear.

SERVICE SCENE Several different adjusting arrangements

have been

Now get underneath (you‘ve put it off as long as you can!) and cover the brake discs and calipers with polythene bags to stop mud and water getting into

used, but it’s either a case of slackening the wing nut

them.

loosening

Next

loosen

any

encrusted

dirt and,

working

on

top

of the

air cleaner

a clamp

screw

one end or one side, scrape or brush it away. The

turning

or sliding

paraffin or solvent can be used where there’s oil contamination. After all the brushing and scraping, a final wash down with the hose will remove the last of the

Typical

set-ups are shown

from

and

turning

around

the pipe

the cover,

the intake

to the

or

pipe and

correct

position.

in the illustrations. Remem-

ber to tighten the nut or screw afterwards.

dirt and mud. You

can

now

check

for leaks in the floor; if you

find any, dry the area carefully then use a mastic type sealer to plug the offending gap. Hollow sections of doors

and

bodywork

can

be sprayed

or brush-painted

with a rust-inhibitor to provide some extra protection.

If there are signs of the underseal breaking away, this opportunity to patch it up. Undersealing

is a good

AUTUMN With system

winter

on

the

way,

is going to take much

your

detailed procedure’s described there.

though, and that’s to make sure the area is clean and

Battery up correctly Ensure this is topped Section) Check and clean as necessary (3000 miles)

dry, otherwise you're wasting your time. you’re

underneath,

have a good

electrical

has during the last few months. Now - and not on a dark night miles from anywhere in a snowstorm - is the time to check the vital components. Where other Sections or Chapters are referred to in brackets, the

Paint is available in spray cans or tins from accessory shops; one small point about putting the stuff on

While

car's

more of a beating than it

look round

for signs of rusting. Likely places are the body sills, panels and subframes, and if you do find any

(Weekly

floor

rust have a word

with the local

Leyland

man

or body

Fan belt 3000 miles

repair shop before things get too bad.

Lights

Bodywork This too will have suffered from all the muck and salt that’s around during the winter, and there’s no

Check operation (Weekly Section).

better time to wash

check for faults as necessary

chips and rust spots. You're bound to find some, despite the regular washing you've given the car - or meant

Renew

it thoroughly and check for stone

to - throughout

any

failed

bulbs

(/n

an

Emergency)

Wipers/Washers

the winter. Treat as for rusty

These

are

going

to get a lot of use, so check the

scratches (see Body Beautifu/).

wiper arms

After the touch-up paint has thoroughly hardened, it's worth giving the car a good polish to prepare it for the long, hot summer ahead (well, there’s no harm in hoping). If you're feeling really energetic you could do

reservoir (Week/y Section) and check operation.

the interior

as well

but the most

the

position

(3000 miles).

Top up washer

Check all hoses (6000 miles).

important cleaning

Drain,

flush and

refill system

with new

antifreeze

mixture if necessary (24000 miles).

Engine air cleaner intake in anticipation

and blades

Cooling system

jobs are now done.

Again

or

(Troub/eshooter 6).

Carburettor Air Intake

of warmer

of the carburettor

weather

air intake

to come,

should

Reset to winter position (Spring Section).

be

changed from the winter to summer setting. The intake spout can be set so that it either draws in warm

Tyres

air from the area of the exhaust manifold, or cooler air

Remember conditions.

from

the engine compartment generally. Positioning the intake to draw in warmer air during winter obviously makes sense because it helps to warm the ingoing mixture and enables the choke to be used less.

But now the outside temperature should be warm enough and the summer position is the correct one.

Check

tread

and

that you

condition may

well

(Week/y

be driving

Section). in slippery

Bodywork and

Finally, if you've got any energy left, wash the car polish it thoroughly to help protect the paint

against the winter elements.

Body Beautiful If you've bought this book

to keep the bodywork anyway ... It’s always this way

a good

you

won't

polished exterior

intending to do all the routine servicing of your car yourself, then you'll surely want

and inside of the car looking good too. And for anyone who doesn’t, here’s how to do it

idea to ciean the interior first; get the dust all over your nicely

- or the car's!

Begin

by removing all

You

have

windows,

to

household

products

the contents, not forgetting the odds and ends in the pockets and glovebox. Then take out all the mats and

Water containing

carpets, which should be shaken and brushed, or better still vacuum-cleaned. If they need further

removed

cleaning this can let them

be done

dry thoroughly

best,

you

put them

back.

careful

any

the

cleaning

car

with

some

as these can leave a smeary

a few drops

stubborn

with

about

windscreen, of ammonia

marks

methylated

and

spirit;

film.

is probably

smears

finish

can

off

be

with

a

chamois leather squeezed as dry as possible. Just in case you

with a carpet shampoo, but before

but

be

especially

should think that’s it, there’s stil!

the boot to be dealt with. Take

bad state of decay that they don’t merit cleaning, why

not get yourself a decent set of replacements? You can get kits tailored for your particular model from

earned

underfelt

should

be taken

out

and shaken, too,

but don't try washing this or it may end up in rather more pieces than you started with. If the carpets

should

just happen

to be in such a

specialist firms, and they’re quite reasonably priced. The

inside

of the car can

now

be cleaned

with a

brush and dustpan, or again preferably a vacuumcleaner. If the flex on the Hoover won't stretch to the car

(and

door!)

the

car

it might

won'‘t

be worth

squeeze

through

thinking about

the

front

investing in

junk

that seems

Now

you

repairs

such

probably

trim

materials

can

be

wiped

containing a little washing-up

over

with

liquid, but

the

for the job. An old

area.

This

Decosol, which are specially

nail don’t

brush

made

will help to remove

splash

too

much

water

ingrained about

such

marks,

but

and do wipe the

this

open

to speed up drying. The carpets can be

doesn't

put back when

they’re quite dry, making sure they're

windows

properly fitted around the controls etc.

of

the

most

useful

comes

is

in various

in a plastic

seat

or

piece

of trim,

from the graining material

over

pattern

type

the

repair and

is then

of

rubbing

embossed

repair’s

into

equally

supplied,

with the

a hot

repaired

successful,

incid-

For larger splits or tears it may be necessary to cut

a piece

dry afterwards

One

entally, on vinyl roofs if your car happens to have one.

with a clean cloth, leaving the

surfaces

hole

matching pattern iron;

cleaners

these.

blended into the surrounding area by selecting the best

as

upholstery

a welllook at

like body filler, and allowed to set. It’s then

one

proprietary

as

a split or

placing

the

a moment

some sheets of texturing material. The liquid is applied

for best results (particularly if they're very dirty) use of

- make

- and take acritical

colours and consists of a quantity of ‘liquid vinyl’ and

smoothed

and

for

the vinyl repair kit, which

probably show you one.

water

pause

the interior. Are there any nicks or tears in the seats or other trim? Is the headlining drooping or peeling? Some excellent products can now be obtained for

to

Seat

can

grown

cup of tea perhaps

one of the small 12-volt hand vacuums which can be attached to your car battery - your accessory shop can

warm

to have

out that collection of

every time you open the lid, and get busy with brush or vacuum cleaner again. While you're at it, if you must carry all that stuff around, now’s the time to try and stow it so it doesn’t rattle any more!

Any

work

of matching show,

apply

it under

together

as

the

neatly

material some edges

as

from

somewhere

that

suitable adhesive to it and of

the

possible

tear,

once

pressing

the

glue

these

has

BODY BEAUTIFUL become

tacky enough.

Any

loose headlining

For

or trim

who's

as

lazy

as

alternative to painting over a scratch

adhesive that’s suitable for PVC or vinyl.

transfer’,

Once

you've

cleanliness

and

got the seats in a reasonable state of repair,

why

not

consider seat covers?

available

colours.

in

packs

Prepare the affected

for touch-up

to

we

are,

the

match

popular

area in the same

paint, then simply

easy

is to use a ‘paint car

way as

pick a transfer

of a

Like the carpets, they're available from specialist firms

suitable size to cover the scratch completely. Hold the

to suit your car and are a worthwhile

transfer against the area and burnish its backing paper,

buy in view of

the protection they give. If you use your car regularly

and if you're doing it right you should find it sticks to

and you've got the time and inclination, it should really be washed every week, either by hand (preferably using a hosepipe) or by taking advantage of the local car-wash if there is one. Whichever method you choose (assuming you

through

to

wash your car at all!) we don’t think we need tell you

different

technique.

how to do it - but remember just wipe

over

a very

it’s never a good idea to

dirty car, whether

wet or dry;

the car paintwork same

time

frees

(rather than your itself from

hand) and at the

the backing.

The patched

area can now be polished to blend it in.

When

any

you've got a scratch that’s penetrated

loose

paint

the rust

on a

metal,

causing

Use your

from

the

rusting,

Scout

bottom

rust-inhibiting

you

right

need

a

knife to remove

of the scratch, then

paint

to

prevent

it from

you might as well sandpaper it!

spreading.

Two or three times a year (even once is better than not at all) a good silicone or wax polish can be used on the paintwork. We don’t know which of the many

cellulose body stopper paste - use a rubber or nylon applicator or a knife, but don’t borrow one from the

makes

you'll

use, so we can only recommend

follow the makers’ see a reward cleaned

you to

instructions closely so that you do

for your

efforts.

with a special chrome

Chrome

considering

the

use

finger,

to help, it will be with

a mild

accessory shop man will advise on a suitable type. The remainder of this Chapter describes how to keep your car’s bodywork and paintwork in good damage

by dealing with too,

as they

occur.

scratches

and

A number

more

major

of repair aids

and materials are referred to, most of them essential if you're to achieve good results. They should all be available, together with free advice, from good motor

accessory shops.

Keeping paintwork up to scratch superficial

scratches

(the

only

other

people seem to get) where they don’t penetrate down to the metal, you'll be glad to hear that repair can be very simple. Lightly rub the area with a paintwork renovator

or a fine cutting paste to remove

any

loose

paint from the scratch and to clean off any polish. Rinse the area with plenty of clean water and allow to dry. Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using a fine brush, and continue to build up the paint by several applications, allowing each to dry, until it’s level with the surrounding area. Allow the new paint at least two weeks to harden (knitting or a crossword puzzle will help to pass the time) then use the paint renovator or cutting paste again to blend it into the original. Nowa

good polish can be used.

be thinned

of smooth dip

down

cotton

it in thinners

to

apply

if necessary

using

rag round and

the end of

quickly

up to the correct level as described earlier.

Dealing with Dents When you car's bodywork gets a deep depression, you'll probably have one too. But there’s no reason why even fully by

fairly large dents

the

can’t be tackled successowner, especially using the

D-Il-Y

excellent body repair materials now available. So cheer up, and let’s see what can be done. The first step is to try to pull the dented metal out

to bring it more Don’t expect to won't; the metal makes

or less back to the original level. make a perfect job of this - you

has stretched

area;

and

‘work-hardened’

it a virtually impossible job. Try to bring

the level up to about sort

need

sweep it across the filled scratch. This ensures that the area is very slightly hollowed and allows the paint to be built

which With

paste can

a piece

‘cutting’ action to remove what is, in effect, a surface layer of dead paint. Your friendly neighbourhood

condition

The wrap

of a polish

now

cellulose thinners. Before it hardens, it’s a good idea to your

If the paint’s beginning to lose its gloss or colour,

probably

kitchen as you'll have a job cleaning it!

parts are best

and ordinary polishing doesn’t seem worth

You'll

cleaner; ordinary metal

polish will attack the finish.

‘78

anyone

can also be stuck in place - but make sure you get an

obviously,

with

1/8 inch below the surrounding shallow

dents

you

can

bypass

this bit. If the underside of the dent can be got at, try hammering it out gently from behind, using a hammer with a wooden or plastic head. You'll need to hold a fairly heavy hardwood block on the outside of the dent;

this absorbs

and helps to stop opposite direction!

the impact the

metal

of the hammer being

dented

blows in

the

If you've got a dent in a completely enclosed body section, or there’s something else preventing you from getting behind it, a different approach is needed. Try to Screw up enough courage to drill several small holes through the metal in the dent, particularly in the deeper parts. Now screw

so that they get a good

in several

sel f-tapping screws bite, and either pull on the

BODY

BEAUTIFUL

4

reads with pliers or wrap some

heavy gauge steel wire ‘ound them and pull this. Brace yourself in case something gives suddenly or you may dent your own

90 dy work!

If things don’t seem

that bad and you're prepared

to have a go at doing the job yourself, remove all the fittings from the surrounding area except those which

may

help to give a good

guide

to what

the shape

area.

should be (e.g. headlamp shells). Now, get a hacksaw

This is best done using a power drill and abrasive disc, put if you've got the time and energy you can use 2Ibow-grease and abrasive paper. Don’t forget to

blade or a pair of snips and cut out all the loose and badly affected metal. Hammer the edges inwards so

Now

to remove

the paint from

the damaged

that you've got a recessed area to build up on.

or the tang of a file to provide a good key for the filier

Wire brush the edges to remove any powdery rust, then paint over with a rust inhibitor; if you can get to the back, do the same to that. You're now going to fill the hole with something, but unfortunately just

which

anything

remove

the paint from

ing good paintwork,

nicely.

Now

an inch or so of the surround-

too, so that everything

blends in

score the metal surface with a screwdriver

you're

didn’t know.

going

to

have

to

apply,

in case

y-ou

Now, to finish off the repair, refer to the

filling and spraying section at the end of this Chapter.

won’t

aluminium

do.

The

best

bets

tape or polyurethane

probably

the

favourite

are

foam.

zinc

The

for a large hole.

gauze,

gauze

is

Cut a piece

slightly larger than the hole to be filled, then position it in the hole so that its edges are below the level of

Rust holes and gashes If

there’s

remove

any

the

paint

left

on

the

affected

area,

it as described previousiy so that you can get a

good

idea

more

rust or fresh air than good metal, now’s the time

to

consider

more

of just how whether

bad the probiem a replacement

is. If there’s

panel

would

be

appropriate; this is a body shop job, beyond the

scope of this book.

;

The subframes are places 71

Front subframe

surrounding

place

with

narrow

sold

by

bodywork.

a few

blobs

If necessary,

of filler paste.

holes you can use the aluminium

the

roll.

approximate

size

backing paper,

Pull and

off a piece shape

hold

or

tape which is

and

required.

trim

to the

If

there’s

peel it off (it sticks better that way)

and

place the tape

over the hole; if necessary,

can

be

at

overlapped

where rust often occurs 2

it in

For small

Rear subframe

the

edges.

Burnish

pieces

down

the

BODY

BEAUTIFUL

LLL

WILLLLLLL 777%

Body areas particularly liable to rusting

edges of the tape with a file handle or similar to make

plane

sure it’s firmly adhering to the metal.

the final shape.

Polyurethane foam sections, but if you’re

grades

is best used in hollow body using this follow the makers’

instructions carefully. When this foam hardens it can be cut back to just below the level of the surrounding bodywork with a hacksaw blade. With the hole now blocked off, the affected area can be filled and sprayed as follows.

or coarse of

coarse,

Many

types

generally

of

speaking

body

filler

those

are

proprietary

available, kits

but which

contain filler paste (or a filler powder and resin liquid) hardener are best. You'll also need a flexible plastic or nylon applicator (usually supplied) for putting the mixture on with. Mix up alittle of the filler on a piece of board or plastic (those plastic

the contents and don’t you

first!).

make

Read

the instructions

up too much

have to work

carefully

at one go. You'll find

fairly fast or the mixture will begin

to set, especially if you’ve been a bit generous with the hardener.

this

plenty

grades

to

fine

their

witt (some

wet-or-dry

keep it wet by rinsing in clean water

point,

of clean

If you're then

you're

the

water

happy ready

over the whole

doctored

area

bare metal, paintwork.

should

be

encircled by « Rinse it wit

to get rid of all the paint anc

with to

the surface you’ve obtainec

apply

some

paint.

First spray

area with a light coat of grey primer

This will show up ‘any surface imperfections whict may need further treatment, and will also help you ge

the knack of spraying with an aerosol can before yo start on the colour coats. Rub down the surface again and if necessary use alittle body stopper, as describe for minor scratches, to fill any small imperfections Repeat

this

until

level’s just proud

When

‘grit’

starting

then

filler dust, and allow it to dry completely.

first a word

of the surrounding

medium,

surrounded by a ring of feathered edge of good

Layers

the final

progressively fine’

paper

or the filler and paint will clog up the abrasive surface

the applicator.

be built up at intervals

the excess and obtair with

abrasive by

give

flat surface, and

satisfied

bodywork.

80

followed

Apply the paste to the prepared hole or dent more or less to the correct level and contour, but don’t try to shape it once it’s become tacky or it’ll pick up on should

follow

wet-or-dry

manufacturers

and a separate

margarine tubs are ideal but do wash out all traces of

Then

paper - 40 is the coarsest, 400 the finest). Always wrar the paper round a flat block if you're trying to get «

At

Filling and Spraying

file to remove

with

spray-and-level

procedure

the finish; then

wash

until

down

you'r

again an

allow to dry.

The

next stage is to apply the finishing coats, bu or two

Paint spraying should

about

the techniques

be done in a warm,

involvec dry, winc

less, dust-free atmosphere - conditions not very readil: the filler has fully hardened,

use a Surform

available to most of us! You

may be able to approac

BODY

BEAUTIFUL

4

them artificially if you’ve got a large indoor workshop, but if you

have

to work

outside

you'll need to pick

the day carefully. If you’re working in your garage you'll probably need to ‘lay’ the dust on the floor by damping it with water. If the

body

repair’s

confined

to a small

patch,

mask off the surrounding area to protect it from paint spray.

and

Bodywork

the

like)

removed.

fitting (chrome

will

If you're

need

to

masking,

and plenty of newspaper to

spray,

shake

experiment

-

the

not

the

neighbours’

the

paint

be

either

aerosol

can

car!)

masked

or

Before starting

thoroughly;

until

you

At the

feel

of the

new

good wax

primer ones.

- not

then

you

can

previous stage this

Use

rub

plenty

with

a thick

coat

of

as one coat, but built up of several thin

When

paper,

area

this down

is dry,

using

the surface

of water

to

the

until

finest

wet-or-dry

it’s really smooth.

keep the surface

it's dry, spray on another

clean; when

primer coat and repeat the

the

for the top coat. Again the idea’s to build up

paint

spray

mence

first

thickness as

this

by several is a

spraying in the centre

a circular

motion,

work

thin coats.

different

aerosol,

Have a test then

com-

of the repair area. Using

gradually

outwards

this time, using a paint

into the original.

Finally,

apply

a

or silicone polish, and hopefully you'll have

There are various kinds of self-adhesive body decor

available for customising your car, while the GT, later Estates and some other versions of the 1100/1300 have their own side-stripes built in. Perhaps the neatest and

most

stripes,

towards

suitable

and way

of

we've

appeal

the

included

‘add-on’ these

variety

are

Pin-

in this Chapter

as

to the owner who wants a cheap and

to improve

the appearance

of his or her

car. They're adhesive tapes which come in different widths and colours and as single or multi-stripes. Most have a backing paper which is peeled off as the stripe is applied. When applying any of these self-adhesive tapes, first make sure the paintwork’s clean by washing with water

Next

clean

paste

or

and up

a car shampoo

the

paintwork

surface

or liquid

with

renovator,

a very

and

detergent.

fine cutting

wash

down

again.

You can now apply the tape, but follow the directions carefully.

Smooth

necessary,

prick out any small air bubbles with a pin.

of the repair and about two inches of the surrounding original paint is covered. Remove all the masking material 10 to 15 minutes

Try

after you've finished spraying.

the edges.

the edges until the whole

paint

After

Adding ‘Pinstripes’

warm

procedure.

Now

all the bits and

a repair you're proud to own up to!

simple repair

away

completely.

best possible finish. the

putting

or a very fine cutting paste, blend the edges

they may

cover

start

renovator

wasn’t too important, but now you’re trying to get the First

can

handles

(an old tin or similar will do

smoothly.

you

to harden

use genuine masking tape

as necessary.

on something

apply

strips, door

Now

pieces because it'll need about two weeks for the paint

not

because

to

stretch

it down the

they'll shrink

with

stripes

slightly

a clean as

you

anyway;

rag and, if

put them

on

and wrap the

ends rcund the panels so that they don’t pull away at

81

The Personal Touch On market

the subject

of accessories

it’s been

in extras and accessories

has now

said that, if somebody grown

to enormous

makes

it, the

proportions,

motorist

and it can

will buy it. The

‘after-

be difficult to sort out the

useful and practical items from what, at the other end of the scale, is some undoubted rubbish. We'd need several volumes to discuss all the various kinds of things you might conceivably buy for your car, and those we have managed around

a good motor

to mention

accessory

can't be gone into in great detail in a book like this. Some time spent browsing

shop will reveal more

than we can

here, but nevertheless

we

hope the suggestions

given may prove useful. All

good

products

fitting

instructions

minor

modifications

will

which

be may

to suit

you're buying secondhand,

supplied or

your

may

1100

with

general

ments

not

require

are

or 1300.

If

of course, you may get no

such

as tachometers

attached

answer

may

allow you

to

the

top

be a central to mount

installation

can

be pod

of the dash console,

instruments

compartment

types,

panel.

which

will not only

but may

and/or

a

which

Another

have a radio

storage

pocket.

instructions at all. The guidelines given here are in no way intended to replace the manufacturers’ instruc-

Some

tions, and if you're in doubt about fitting a particular

Chapter.

item, they’re the people to refer to.

Sooner or later you re going to have to start drilling some holes somewhere, but this needn't cause any

NOTE: commencing

always

disconnect

any work

the

battery

before

involving the electrical system.

Fireworks are very pretty, but there's a time and place

real

information

headaches

already

these

is given

if it's approached

mentioned,

the panel

for everything.

on

make

before even

later

in this

in the right way.

sure there's

As

nothing behind

considering drilling a hole, and

that there's enough room to fit the instrument, switch, or whatever,

Auxiliary instruments It would

be possible to write a complete

book

on

auxiliary instruments and how to fit them but, as with other things, you'll normally get pretty good instructions

when

you

buy them. Because there are so

many instruments available, consider ammeters, battery clocks, oil pressure gauges,

we're only going to condition indicators, tachometers, vacuum

running through

it must have

a plastic or rubber grommet to prevent the metal chafing through; these grommets can be obtained from

DIY accessory or car electrical shops. When it comes to drilling larger holes ments, start off by centre-punching

for instru-

the middle

of the

First of all, even before you've decided what instruments you're going to fit, you've got to think where to fit them. The dash panel of the 1100/1300 models doesn’t lend itself readily to fitting brackets

area, then use compasses or dividers to mark the hole, allowing a little for clearance (standard instruments are 2 in/52 mm diameter). It’s best to mark another hole inside the first hole, and drill around this line so that the centre part can readily be pushed out; if you're using a 1/8 in drill the inner circle will need to be 1/16 in inside the first circle marked. Finish the job

and

small

off by carefully filing and deburring the hole.

end

up

gauges and water temperature gauges.

82

in the space chosen. Any hole which will

have a cable or capillary

extra panels, because the instruments will being rather low down. On some versions

there’s room in the dash itself, but if you do decide to put anything there, make sure there's nothing immediately behind the mounting point because you'll

‘Ammeter

have to drill and file out a suitable hole. Some instru-

from, the battery

The ammeter must be connected in such a way that it registers all the current supplied to, or drawn

except

for the starting circuit. On

THE PERSONAL TOUCH

YAZAKI

VEGLIA BORLETTI

SMITHS

=

COIL

COIL

COIL

Connections for three popular tachometers Yazaki: Smiths:

Negative earth shown - reverse arrowed wires to change polarity. Positive earth shown - the dotted connection must be removed when the tachometer is fitted. Reverse arrowed wires to change polarity. Negative earth shown - reverse arrowed wires to change polarity.

Veglia Borletti:

the 1100/1300 models, the best way of doing this is to

disconnect solenoid

the (that’s

compartment

two

brown

the

device

sidewall

leads

from

mounted

behind

on

the battery)

the

starter

the

engine

and solder

them carefully together. this soldered connection

Now connect the ammeter to and the solenoid connection,

carefully

bare

the

taping-up

ammeter

designated

any

should

44/.012).

nected, it’s found

be

wires.

The

at least 44/0.30

If, after

the

wire size for (previously

ammeter’s

con-

to be indicating in the reverse sense,

Clock Clocks

come

in

many

contain semi-conductors.

forms,

but

most

types

If this means nothing to you,

remember that while it ensures a negligible load on the battery it does mean that the polarity (positive/

negative connections) is critical if you don’t want to permanent damage, so watch the makers’ instructions here. Connections are much the same as for the battery condition indicator except that you don’t want the clock to stop when the ignition’s cause

simply change over the connections on the back of the

switched

instrument.

should be the fuse with the purple wire(s) attached.

Battery condition indicator

Tachometer

The battery condition indicator is simply a voltmeter, and as such must be connected to a good earth point on the chassis and to any suitable connection

that’s available in larger sizes than the others

which

obtained).

is live when

the ignition

switch

is ON.

For

convenience, this could be the fuse with the green wires attached. You wont need heavy cables for the battery condition indicator, 14/0.30 (14/.012) should be OK, but make sure that the earth polarity’s correct.

off.

Therefore

The tachometer

instead must

of 52 mm,

point

(rev counter) is the one instrument

although

them

this smaller

up correctly.

pick up a secondhand that with

connecting

(80 mm size can be

Most are positive or negative earth, but you

connect

common

a suitable

types

are

the Smiths

In case you

one, connections

shown

type,

in the

should

for the most

illustrations.

the distributor-to-coil

Note

LT

83

”

2Qu ww ”

=)

d

c ~ wn

=i

A or

) es a1

'

Owner's Handbook/Servicing Guide All BLMC

1100 and 1300 models, Mk 1, 2 & 3, 1098 cc and 1275 cc, Austin, Morris, Riley,

Vanden Plas and Wolseley, 1962 to 1974. This new Handbook for the very popular and successful BLMC 1100 and 1300 series is written for the owner who wants to get the best out of his or her car in terms of both motoring pleasure and economical running. It’s a time and cost saver, and a problem solver. We tell you how to reduce garage bills, and keep your car safe and roadworthy, by doing your own routine maintenance and servicing. Body repairs and interior and exterior renovation are covered in some detail. There are tips on saving money in other ways, too — on replacement parts, for example; and some ideas on fitting worthwhile accessories. Emergencies like punctures are covered, of course, while in the event of a mechanical breakdown the Troubleshooter Charts should help to get you out of trouble. Carry this book in your 1100 or 1300 at all times, and it should save you its modest cost many times over. O

85696

379

8

3

-

>

a