Haynes Ford Capri 1300 and 1600 Owners Handbook 0900550635, 9780900550638

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Ford Capri 1800 and 16OO Covers models Ford Capri 1800 and 1600 1969 onwards

Owners Handbook/Maintenance Manual by J. R. S. Hall

HAYNES

75p

Acknowledgements Thanks are due to many people for their help and enthusiasm in the production of this handbook. Further thanks are extended to the manufacturer of the Ford Capri 1300 and 1600 for the use of certain illustrations and to Castrol Limited. A Handbook in the Haynes Owners Handbook and Maintenance Manual Series.

Edited by John Larminie

©

JH Haynes and Company

Limited

Published by J H Haynes and Company Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset.

Set in 10 point IBM Univers Medium Printed in England

SBN no 90055

063 5

Limited,

Contents

Introduction

5

Model

6

Identification

Specifications, Dimensions, Capacities

Weights

Road Test Data

14

Automatic Transmission

15

Spares and Touring Pack

16

Tools

17

Routine Maintenance

18

Bodywork - Maintenance, Cleaning,

Minor Repairs

35

Preparing your Car for the MOT Test

45

Buying and Selling a Used Capri 1300 or 1600

49

Wiring Diagrams and Fuses

54

Metric Conversion Tables

58

Fault Finding Charts

61

Index

93

Introduction

This handbook is intended for the Ford Capri 1300/1600 owner or prospective owner, who wishes to find out more about the car and wants to keep it regularly and properly serviced with the minimum of effort so that the car gives economical trouble-free transport. The Ford Capri has been in production since 1969 and are now available on the secondhand market at reasonable prices. As the purchase of a cheaper car is usually due to economic necessity it follows that garage servicing bills should be kept to a minimum. You will find in this handbook all routine maintenance tasks that are required to keep the car running well together with a list of the tools needed to do the jobs. Early Ford Capri models are now subject to the yearly MOT test; details of what the tester will be looking for, how to check these points yourself, and the remedy of any faults found are also given in this book. Most of you reading this introduction will have had the unpleasant experience at some time

of having a car that, for some

reason or

other, simply ‘dies’ on you or just ‘will not go’. Much of the work involved in looking after a car depends on accurate fault diagnosis in the first place. Therefore a comprehensive, methodical and progressive way of fault finding is presented in this book. Much time can be wasted in hopping from one possible source of trouble to another.

It is best to say at the start — ‘This

could be one of several things — let’s get the book out. After successfully using this handbook should you wish to tackle the more complicated type of repair a most useful Owners Workshop Manual is available direct from the publishers or through all good accessory shops and book-sellers.

Model Identification

The Ford Capri was introduced in January 1969 in a wealth of advanced publicity and was immediately received with enthusiasm by the motoring press. The car was of ‘fast back’ design somewhat similar to the American ‘pony car’, the Ford Mustang, but a good deal smaller. Initially three engine variations were available, the 1300 and 1600 well proven crossflow Kent series engine from the Cortina Mk II range and the V4 2000 engine used in the V4 Corsair.

assisted braking system as standard. Other standard GT fittings are a centre console with a clock, tachometer, oil pressure gauge and battery

Later a 3 litre V6 engine was used, this being the Zodiac Mk IV engine, to give a total choice of four engines some in various states of tune. The V4 and V6 engined models are not covered in this book but are the subject of another in this series. The introduction of the Capri together with the Escort marked the start of Ford’s Europeanstyle cars, Capris with different engines being

riders, locking fuel cap, body side moulding and ‘L’ badge. This pack is a standard fitting on all models. The XL pack incorporates all L features plus reclining front seats, separate rear seats, reversing lamps, dual horns and ‘XL’ badge. The XLR pack only available on the GT models incorporates the L and XL packs plus twin driving lamps, 5 inch Rostyle sports wheels,

manufactured

light, black grille and ‘XLR’ badge.

in Germany as well.

Within the 1300/1600 range four basic models are available, the 1300 saloon, 1300 GT saloon, 1600 saloon and 1600 GT saloon. The GT versions are slightly more powerful being fitted with amongst other engine parts, a Weber carburettor in place of that of normal Ford manufacture. The 1600 GT also has a servo

condition

indicator, two speed wipers and radial ply tyres. The Ford Motor Company introduced their now standard ‘American style’ option packs on the Capri. They were designated L, XL and XLR. The L pack consists of a windscreen washer, exhaust trim, dummy air scoops, over-

leather

rimmed

steering

wheel,

map

reading

Various other optional extras are however available singly, at extra cost, including BorgWarner Type 35 automatic transmission (1600 saloon only), servo assisted brakes, metallic paint, heated rear window and an alternator instead of a dynamo.

SB 2

SOSrA

14 16 20 21

22 Phe) Ve

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—

10 oP 7:

i

i

ive

Capri Dash 1 Fresh air vent 2 Cigarette lighter 3 Heater controls

4 Panel light

5 Windscreen

wiper

6 Heater fan 7 Windscreen washer

8 Ashtray

10 11 12 13 14. 15 16

Gear lever Hand brake Clutch Accelerator Brake pedal Odometer Temperature gauge Speedometer

2

Bie

A

SS SS

flied Fuel gauge Light switch Headlamp flasher/direction indicator/horn/dipper

Oil pressure warning light Ignition/charging warning Headlamp main beam warning Direction indicator warning

2

_—_=—-

Soo

=e

OS ZO (ey4] SS ae

18

————

ae

5 19

S58 i

=

LO

Tama

2on 3s 14

2Ow22

—

SS

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924

23

Capri GT Dash Fresh air vent

Cigarette lighter

10 Gear lever

11

Heater controls

Panel light Windscreen Heater fan Windscreen Ashtray

wiper washer

Clock — OMDNODAARWNH

14

Acc

itOr

15 Temperature gauge 16 Speedometer 17 Trip meter 18 Tachometer

19 20 21 22 23

Battery voltage meter

Oil pressure gauge Fuel gauge Light switch Headlamp flasher/direction indicator/horn/dipper 24 Direction indicator warning 25 Headlamp main beam warning 26 Ignition/charging warning

Controls on right of steering column 3 Bonnet release lever

2 Choke control

1 Steering lock and switch for ignition, start and accessories

Heater controls Temperature contro! lever (1) blends hot and cold air to give required heat from cold to hot as slid to right Air distribution lever (2) when set to the left is off. Put centrally all air goes to the screen at the heat set by

the ternperature control. To the right the air is passes mostly to the feet: as the temperature control is moved towards the cold position this proportion gets smaller, the rest going as cold air to face level

Ram air flow can be augmented by the two speed fan (3)

a=

Ca

Seat back angle adjustment 1 1

Adjusting screw for non-

reclining seat backs 2

Seat back release catch for access to back seats

Fully reclining individual front seats

Selector lever positions (automatic transmission)

3

Release lever for reclining seats

4

(optional extra)

5

Range indicator

6

Selector lever

Release button

Specifications, Dimensions, Weights, Capacities Engine 1300

Type Bore Stroke Cubic capacity Compression ratios High

4 cylinder in line, ohv, pushrod operated 80.978 mm (3.1881 in) 62.99 mm (2.480 in) 1297 cc (79.18 cu in) 9.0tol

8.0 to 1 9.2 to 1 Maximum bhp HC LC GT Maximum torque HC

Location of No 1 cylinder Firing order Valve clearances (cold) Inlet Exhaust

GT

Inlet Exhaust

Type of engine oil

58.0 (nett) at 5000 rpm 53.5 (nett) at 5000 rpm 71.0 (nett) at 6000 rpm 71.5 lb ft (9.88 kg m) at 2500 rpm

68 |b ft (9.45 kg m) at 2800 rpm 70.0 Ib ft (9.66 kg m) at 4300 rpm Next to radiator te2ra ss 0.008 to 0.010 0.018 to 0.020 0.011 to 0.013 0.021 to 0.023 Castrol GTX

in in in in

(0.20 (0.46 (0.28 (0.53

to to to to

Engine 1600 The 1600 engine is identical in all respects to the 1300 unit apart 77.62 mm (3.056 in) Stroke 1598 cc (97.51 in) Cubic capacity Compression ratio 9.0tol 1600 GT Maximum bhp 71 (nett) at 5000 rpm He 69.5 (nett) at 5000 rpm De 88 (nett) at 5400 rpm GT Maximum torque 91.5 Ib ft (12.64 kg m) at HC 87.0 Ib ft (12.10 kg m) at LC 96.0 Ib ft (13.27 kg m) at GT

0.25 0.51 0.33 0.58

mm) mm) mm) mm)

from the differences listed

2500 rpm 2500 rpm 3600 rpm

Specifications, dimensions, weights, capacities 10 eee ee Cooling system Type Blow off pressure of radiator cap Fan - standard heavy duty

Fuel system Carburettor types 1300 and 1600 1300 GT 1600 GT Fuel pump

Mechanical drive

from eccentric on camshaft

Autolite

0.025 in (0.64 mm)

10° BTDC on 97 octane fuel 8° BTDC on 97 octane fuel 10° BTDC on 97 octane fuel 10° BTDC on 97 octane fuel 10° BTDC on 89 octane fuel 10° BTDC on 89 octane fuel 6° BTDC on 94 octane fuel 6° BTDC on 94 octane fuel 4° BTDC on 86 octane fuel 40 BTDC on 86 octane fuel On timing cover and crankshaft pulley Autolite AG22A 0.023 in (0.584 mm)

Clutch Type Actuation Lining diameter

Single dry plate diaphragm spring Cable

7.5 in (19.1 cm) 43.2 sq in (279.4 sq cm)

Tota! friction area

Gearbox Number of gears Synchromesh

1600

13 Ib sq in (0.91 kg cm2)

8 blades, 12 inch (30.48 cm) 10 blades, 12 inch (30.48 cm)

Ford single choke downdraught Weber 32-DFE Weber 32-DFM-2

Ignition system Distributor type Contact points gap Static ignition settings 1300 GT 1600 GT 1300 HC 1600 HC Weioo Ie 1600 LC 1300 HC 1600 HC (gee (Le 1600 LC Timing marks Spark plugs Plug gap

Ratios 1300 and 1300 GT

Pressurised, pump impellor and fan assisted

4 forward, 1 reverse

All forward gears

1st gear 2nd gear 3rd gear Top gear Reverse 1st gear 2nd gear 3rd gear Top gear Reverse

3.543 2.396 1.412 1.000 3.963 3.543 2.396 1.412 1.000 3.963

to to to to to to to to to to

1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1

1600 GT

1st gear 2nd gear 3rd gear Top gear Reverse

Automatic type

2.972 to 1 2.010 to 1

1.397 to 1 1.000 to 1 S.324stoul

Borg Warner Type 35

Specifications, dimensions, weights, capacities

11

SS

Rear axle Type Ratios 1300 1300 GT 1600 1600 GT

Semi-floating hypoid Standard 4.125 to 1 4.125 to 1 3.900 to 1 3.778 to 1

Optional 4.444 to 1

4.125 to 1

Overall gear ratios Overall gear ratios may be calculated by use of the following equation: Gearbox ratio x rear axle ratio = overall gear ratio

Steering Type Turns lock to lock

Rack and pinion 3% approx

Suspension Front Rear Shock absorbers

Independent by Macpherson Struts Semi-elliptic leaf springs and radius arms Double acting telescopic hydraulic front and rear

Camber angle Castor angle King pin inclination

Standard -09 30’ to+0° 30’ 0° 30’ to 19 30’ 72 30’ to 89 30’ .06 to .25 in (1.5 to 6.4 mm)

Toe-in

Wheels and tyres Wheels - standard R or XLR package Optional on all models Tyres - 1300 and 1600 1300 GT and 1600 GT Optional on all models Tyre inflation

600 x 12 cross-ply 165 x 13 radial-ply

J x 13 J x13 J x 13 x 13 cross-ply x 13 radial ply x 13 radial ply Normal Front Rear 24 (1.7) 24 (1.7) DANAE) 27 (1.9)

Heavy duty

0° 0° 79 .06

10’ to+09° 50’ 30’ to 19 30’ 10’ to 8° 10’ to .25 in (1.5 to 6.4 mm)

4.50 5.00 5.00 6.00 165 165

Full Load Front

24N( 157) 27 (1.9)

Rear 27 (1.9) 31 (222)

NOTE: The foregoing tyre pressures are quoted in |b/sq in and in brackets kg/sq cm. The recommended pressures should be taken when the tyre is cold, as a hot tyre normally shows a higher pressure. Brakes

Type Footbrake Handbrake Servo

Front brake layout

Disc at front, drum at rear Hydraulic on all 4 wheels Mechanical to rear wheels only Standard on 1600 GT, optional other models Trailing callipers

Specifications, dimensions, weights, capacities 12 cer Brake dimensions

1300 Disc diameter Disc thickness Cylinder diameter Total pad swept area Pad colour coding Rear drum dimensions Total shoe swept area Rear wheel cylinder diameter Master cylinder diameter: single line without servo dual line without servo with servo 1300 GT, 1600 and 1600 GT Disc diameter Disc thickness Cylinder diameter Total pad swept area Pad colour coding Rear drum dimensions Total shoe swept area Rear wheel cylinder diameter Electrical system Battery type Earthed terminal Dynamo Alternator (optional!) Control box Fuses Bulbs Headlamps Sidelamps Indicator lamps Flasher unit Tail and stop light Licence illumination light Interior light Warning lights Panel lights Dimensions Wheelbase Track rear Track front Overall length Overall width

Overall height (laden) Turning circle Ground clearance (laden)

9.59 inch (24.13 cm) 0.376 inch (0.95 cm) 1.892 inch (4.80 cm) 171.9 sq in (1109 sq cm) Green, Red, Red, Red

8 x 1.5 inch (20.3 x 3.81 cm) 75.5 sq inch (487 sq cm) 0.75 inch (1.87 cm) 0.625 inch (1.59 cm) 0.70 inch (1.77 cm) 0.813 inch (2.06 cm)

9.625 0.500 2.125 189.5

inch inch inch sq in

(24.45 cm) (1.26 cm) (5.39 cm) (1220 sq cm) Green, Red, Red, Red 9 x 1.75 inch (22.9 x 4.45 cm) 99.0 sq in (639 sq cm) 0.75 inch (1.87 cm)

Lead acid, 12 volt

Negative (—) Lucas C40 Lucas 15ACR Lucas RB340 or Autolite 6 plus 1 spare in holder

60/45 watt, sealed beam 5 watt wedge base 28 watt 56 watt 7/28 watt 5 watt, wedge base

6 watt festoon 2.2 watt, wedge base 2.2 watt, wedge base

100.8 in (256.0 cm) 53 in (134.6 cm) 52 in (132.0 cm) 167.8 in (426.2 cm) 64.8 in (164.6 cm) 50.7 in (128.8 cm) 32.0 ft (9.7 m) 4.5 in (11.4 cm)

Specifications, dimensions, weights, capacities Capacities Fuel tank Sump capacity (with filter) Oil type

Gearbox capacity Oil type

10.5 gallons (12.7 US gals, 48.0 litres) 7.2 pints (8.6 US pints, 4.09 litres) Castrol GTX 1.7 pints (2.1 US pints, .96 litres) Castrol Hypoy Light

Coolant capacity 1300 with heater 1600 with heater Steering rack capacity Oil type Rear axle capacity Oil type

10.20 pints (12.24 US pints, 5.81 litres) 11.45 pints (13.74 US pints, 6.53 litres) 0.25 pint (0.30 US pint, 0.15 litre) Castrol Hypoy 2.0 pints (2.4 US pints, 1.1 litres) Castrol Hypoy

13

Weights 1300 1300 GT 1600

1940 |Ib(880 kg) 1985 Ib(900 kg) 1985 |b(900 kg)

1600

2030 Ib(920 kg)

GT

Road Test Data

1300GT

Saloon models (manual)

Maximum speed (mph) Cruising speed (mph) Cruising range (miles) Maximum speed in gears:

3rd 2nd 1st

Acceleration through gears (secs) O0—30 O0—40 0—50 0—60 O0—70

mph mph mph mph mph

Standing % mile (secs) Average fuel consumption (mpg) Fuel consumption at 50 mph (mpg)

1600GT

Automatic Transmission An automatic transmission

assembly is avail-

first gear until the selector lever is moved out of 1. This is useful when descending steep hills, etc. The downshift to 1 is controlled by the gearbox for safety reasons so that the downshift will not occur unless the car is moving slowly enough.

able on 1600 and 1600 GT models. The automatic transmission consists of a torque converter and a hydraulically controlled automatic epicyclic gearbox with three forward speeds and one reverse. In all gears the drive is through the torque converter which results in maximum flexibility, especially in top gear. The gears are selected automatically by engaging clutches and/or applying brake bands in various combinations by a hydraulic control system. The hydraulic control system and the torque converter are supplied with oil under pressure by one gear type oil pump. Selection of the desired drive range is obtained by means of a floor mounted lever between the front seats. A fixed quadrant adjacent to the base of the selector lever indicates which range has been selected.

P — PARK

This position of the selector lever mechanically locks the transmission. It should be used when parking to supplement the handbrake. Do not, under any

R— REVERSE

N— NEUTRAL

D — DRIVE

2— DRIVE (in 1 and 2)

1— LOCK

circumstances,

select

P

when the car is moving. Toreverse the car select R. Do not select R when the car is moving. With the selector lever in this position the torque converter is not connected to the gear train, thus there is no drive to the rear wheels. This gives fully automatic drive with upwards and downward changes between all three gears controlled by the gearbox. Thisgives automatic drive with upward and downward changes between first and second gear. If 2 is selected when the car is moving an immediate downshift to second will take place. Therefore, to avoid ‘over-revving’ the engine, do not select 2 when travelling at speeds much in excess of 55 mph. Selection of 1 will, providing the road speed is low enough, select first gear. The transmission will then remain in

To avoid inadvertent movement of the car, it is not possible to start the engine unless P or N is selected. This is controlled by the inhibitor switch mounted on the gearbox. To prevent possible damage to the transmission and/or engine, certain gear selections cannot be made without depressing the spring-loaded button on the side of the ’T’ handle. These are: P to R, R to P, D to 2, 2 to 1, N to R. If, for some reason, it is necessary to tow the car, ensure that the fluid level is correct and the transmission is operating satisfactorily. The car may then be towed at speeds up to 30 mph (48 kph) and for distances not exceeding 15 miles. For high speed or long distance towing, or if the transmission is suspect the drive shaft must be removed. It should be noted that the car cannot be push or tow started. If the engine will not start, a slave battery should be used and steps taken to rectify the cause of the ‘no start’ condition. Capris fitted with automatic transmission which are to be used for caravan or trailer towing, should be fitted with a transmission oil cooler to prevent overheating.

Periodic service attention Check transmission fluid level every 6000 miles (10,000 km) with the gearbox at normal operating temperature at idling speed in P.

Lubricant M-2C33-F Capacity 11% Imp pints Normal operating temperature 100 to 1159C (2.1 to 236°F) Gear change Light throttle Kick down Part throttle Zero throttle Kick down

1—2 6 to 11 30 to 39 3-2 23 to 32 ~ 47to59

2-3 10 to 15 «654 to 62 2-1 6 to 9 22 to 34

Spares and Touring Pack Before undertaking any long journey, whether in this country or abroad it is advisable to thoroughly check your car and its contents. It is better to have the car serviced early, before the exact required time if necessary, rather than put it off until your return. Breakdown services, accredited dealers and spare part availability for your Capri are not always there when you need them particularly abroad and in outlying districts of Great Britain. There are two lists, one giving spares which should always be carried in the car and the other suggesting those which it is advisable to carry if undertaking a journey abroad. Some dealers are able to supply manufacturers recommended touring packs on an hire/buy-if-you-use basis. Always carry First aid box and manual Spare set of keys

Gallon can of petrol with filler spout (full) List of car main agents Breakdown triangle (compulsory on the Continent) Torch (with red flashing dome) Fan belt Finilec puncture sealer Roll of PVC insulation tape Temporary plastic windscreen Length of electrical cable (heavy duty lighting circuit) Screwdriver (medium sized) Electrical screwdriver Pair of pliers Adjustable spanner (parrot jaw) Distributor - rotor arm condenser set of points 1 tin of hand cleanser

Going abroad The articles in the ‘Always carry’ list Tow rope Set of light bulbs Set of spark plugs correctly gapped Spare inner tube valves Set of radiator hoses Radiator sealer such as Holts Radweld Set of fuses Length of HT lead Fire extinguisher Tube of gasket jointing cement Tin of Castrol Girling Brake Fluid 1 quart tin of Castrol GTX 1 spare head gasket set As many other tools as you feel you need Adequate set of maps List of Ford (GB) agents abroad

may

Always keep this handbook in the car and produce it if you break down abroad. Non

English speaking mechanics will find valuable information about your ‘strange’ car in it. There are many mechanical terms common to differing languages - you can always point at the photographs, it may help!

Tools

To carry out the routine maintenance tasks in this book you will obviously need a reasonable set of tools. A really comprehensive too! kit will be expensive to purchase at one go - most home mechanics have built up a kit over the years as they have tackled new and more complicated maintenance and repair work. This way the cost is spread out. Buy only the best quality (some spanners do break), keep them clean and in a safe place. The following list suggests the tools needed to undertake the work described in this book. 1 set of open-ended spanners (5/16 inch to

7/8 inch AF) 1 set of ring spanners (9/16 inch to 7/8 inch

AF) 1 1 1 1 1 3 2 1 1 1

spark plug spanner engineer’s hammer (1 Ib ball pein) soft-headed hammer pair pliers pair long nosed pliers screwdrivers (small, medium, large) Phillips screwdrivers (small, medium) set of feeler gauges fine file oil can (Castrol Everyman)

1 grease gun (Castrol LM Grease) Before jacking up put your red triangle on the road well back from the car, and its case on your seat so

you will remember it. Get the car out of the way of traffic for your safety and theirs. Apply the handbrake. If on a slope, chock the wheels.

1 brake adjusting spanner

1 adjustable spanner (parrot jaw) Non-fluffy rag 1 pair of overalls 1 tin of hand cleanser

Routine Maintenance

Introduction

No matter how well you look after your Capri various components inevitably are going to wear out and need replacement but by carrying out the regular maintenance tasks listed below, you will be able to get above average mileage from your car before replacement becomes a necessity. A great many of the maintenance tasks are purely a visual examination of components, many are vital to the roadworthiness of the car and safety of its occupants. The whole business of routine maintenance may become a bit tedious at times but do not neglect anything; your life or some innocent party's life may depend on it and your car will appreciate the care you bestow on it by giving

you as trouble free transport as possible. Plan ahead Before starting work always read through what work is involved and make sure you have all the parts and lubricants that will be required. Most do-it-yourself motorists do their work during the evenings or weekends when the parts departments of garages are closed and nothing is more annoying in starting a job and being unable to complete it due to lack of spares. The following is a list of the parts that will probably be required for each particular service but may have to be supplemented to meet any individual needs. If the replacement of a part is not necessary for a particular service then it may be retained for a subsequent service. Buying oil in bulk is often cheaper than purchasing it in individual 1 pint or quart tins. Five gallon drums are available and provision is made for the fitting of a tap to assist dispensing. It should be noted that this list is progressive so as to prevent unnecessary repetition.

Weekly Engine oil - Castrol GTX Water - cooling system - windscreen washer Distilled water - battery Vaseline - battery terminals Tyre pressure gauge Castrol Girling Brake Fluid - brake hydraulic reservoir Spare bulb - lights

6000 mile service Oil filter cartridge and seal Contact breaker set Oil can - Castrol Everyman or GTX Spark plugs Small quantity of petrol in jar - cleaning Castrol Hypoy Light - gearbox Castrol Hypoy - rear axle Fan belt Disc pads Rear brake shoes Castrol Antifreeze (autumn) 18,000 mile service Paper element for air cleaner Castrol LM Grease - front hub bearings 9 inch length rubber tubing - brake bleeding

Castrol Antifreeze (autumn)

Routine Maintenance

19

WEEKLY Or every 250 miles 1 Under the bonnet Check the oil level in the sump. The first reading taken on the dipstick should not be accepted as an accurate one. Wipe it clean and recheck. Top up if necessary with Castrol GTX. Check the radiator coolant level and top up if necessary. If the level has dropped appreciably since the previous occasion check around for signs of a leak. If antifreeze is in the coolant a leak will be more apparent as the coloured antifreeze will be sprayed about by the fan. Check the level of the electrolyte in the battery and top up with distilled water if this is low. Do not overfill. If the battery is overfilled or any electrolyte spilled, immediately wipe away the excess as electrolyte, being a dilute solution of sulphuric acid, will attack and corrode any metal it comes into contact with. Check that the terminals are clean and coated with a petroleum jelly such as Vaseline to prevent corrosion.

2 Steering Check the tyre pressure against the specifications at the front of this book and adjust as necessary. If you have radial-ply tyres on a model normally fitted with cross-ply tyres follow the tyre manufacturers instructions for pressures. Do not forget to check the spare. Examine the tyres for unusual or excessive wear or damage. If an unusual wear pattern is developing take your car to your local garage to have the steering geometry checked. Check that the steering is smooth and accurate. If the steering pulls one way or there is excessive play at the steering wheel take the car to your local garage for testing on proper equipment.

3 Brakes Check the level of the hydraulic fluid in the reservoir and top up with Castrol Girling Brake Fluid if necessary. If the level has dropped significantly examine the braking system for possible leaks.

4

Lights Check that all the bulbs in the lights are in working order including the flasher bulbs and stop light bulbs. If any of the bulbs are found to be defective they can be replaced as follows:

Check radiator:

refill with antifreeze mixture

20 Routine Maintenance eS eee ee SEALED BEAM HEADLAMP AND SIDELAMP BULB Open the bonnet and remove the two small screws securing the top of the headlamp bezel to the bodywork.

Remove the two lower securing screws from the bezel and lift it away. Remove the four screws holding the sealed beam unit to the body and carefully lift the unit a short distance away from the car. Pull off the wiring plug from the rear of the sealed beam unit and remove the sidelamp bulb which is located just below the plug. Also disconnect the wire leading to the indicator light at its connector. The unit can now be lifted clear of the car and malfunctioning units replaced. Replacement is a direct reversal of the removal procedure.

5 Windscreen washer Check the windscreen washer reservoir and top up if necessary. In winter add Holts Winter Screen Wash to the reservoir. This prevents freezing both in the reservoir and on the screen and also removes grease from the screen. For summer motoring Holts produce a Summer Screen Wash which helps remove squashed flies and other accumulations of dirt.

FRONT INDICATOR BULB Remove the headlamp bezel as described in paragraph 3 above. Remove the two screws running through the top and bottom of the lens, lift the lens away and remove the bulb by pushing it in and turning anticlockwise to release the pins. Replacement is a direct reversal of the removal procedure.

TAIL, STOP AND REAR INDICATOR

BULBS

Open the boot lid and pull off the rear lamp cluster trim cover. Pull the bulb holder which needs attention

from its socket in the light cluster and remove the bulb by depressing it and rotating it in an anticlockwise direction. Replacement is a direct reversal of the removal procedure.

Remove the two screws below...

REAR NUMBER PLATE LAMP BULB Disconnect the earth and feed wires inside the luggage compartment and pull the wires through the hole in the floor. Press the retaining levers inwards from underneath the bumper and lift off the assembly.

Remove the bulb from the assembly. Replacement is a direct reversal of the above procedure, then check the operation of the

lamp.

and lift off the bezel

Exploded view of a front lamp (left hand)

Rear lamp assembly

Number plate lamp

T CHAR ION ICAT LUBR ial 7 eee Sire CASTROL HYPOY

CASTROL LM GREASE

An ultra high performance

LIGHT GEAR OIL

GEAR OIL

Recommended for the

motor oi! approved for use in the engine ia

CASTROL GTX

A powerful, extreme pressure lubricant

CASTROL HYPOY

A powerful, axtremepressure gear oll essential

summer and winter,

recommended for the transmission and steering

wheel bearings. May also be used for chassis for the lubrication of the —_lubrication, —hypoid rear axle

gear

EVERY 6,000 MILES Including Weekly service

WEEKLY

ENGINE Check oil level, and if necessary refill to

correct level with Castrol GTX.

ENGINE

After the first

3.000 miles, and thereafter

every 6.000 miles. drain off the old oil while warm, clean and replace drain plug. change complete filter unit. Refill

with fresh Castrol

GTX.

NOTE :—Owners are advised that more frequent sump-draining

periods

desirable if the operation involves

are of the car

:-—

(1) (2)

*Frequent stop/start driving *Operation during cold weather especially when appreciable engine

(3)

*When

idling is involved

much driving is done under dusty conditions *When such conditions are experienced consult your authorised dealer regarding Ford Midway Service.

SUMP

||

CAPACITY :—

1300

1300) 1600 Gi,

}

1600 GT

all in-line engines gine

TN f Fe(s4rpints incloding filter and oilways

GEARBOX. At the first 3,000 miles, drain the gearbox while warm and refill with Castrol Hypoy Light Gear Oil. No further draining of this unit is required and it is only necessary to check and top up the

H

EVERY 6,000 MILES

level if required every 6,000 miles Use Castro!

Capacity—1

Hypoy

Light Gear Oil.

97 pts

OVERSEAS Castrol Hypoy Light Gear Oil is recommended for all climatic conditions

REAR AXLE At the first 3,000 miles, thereafter every 6,000 miles, check the oil level and top up if necessary

to the correct level with

CA ewe 2s 6

EVERY 24,000 MILES

Castrol Hypoy Gear Oil. |

Capacity:

2 pints

V.4. models only Rear axle capacity:

1.9 pints.

OVERSEAS |

|

Air temperature

below

aes

23°C

FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS. After the first 27.000. 24,000 miles.

. |

thereafter every

repack and adjust the

front wheel bearings. Grease.

Use Castrol LM

Routine Maintenance 6000 MILES Every 6000 miles or 6 months exceeded

if 6000

is not

A rubber sealing ring is located in a groove round the head of the filter cartridge and forms an effective leakproof joint between the pump body

6

Engine Run the engine until it has reached its normal working temperature. Place a container of at least eight pints under the sump drain plug, remove the plug and allow the oil to drain for at least ten minutes. (Do not pour this old oil down the household drain; it is illegal. Take it to a local garage - they have special oil disposal facilities.) Replace the sump plug firmly. The full flow oil filter is attached to the oil pump on the right hand side of the engine towards the front. The element comes in the form of a disposable cartridge, the whole cartridge screwing directly onto a threaded tube protruding from the oil pump. To remove the filter, simply cartridge and throw it away.

unscrew

the

23

and

the

filter

cartridge.

A

new

sealing

ring is supplied with each new filter cartridge. Before fitting a new filter cartridge thoroughly clean the pump face and ensure that the new sealing ring is correctly lccated in its groove in the filter cartridge. Lightly oil the sealing ring then screw the filter cartridge onto its thread until tight. Refill the sump with 7.2 pints of Castrol GTX, run the engine for a few minutes and check for leaks in the area where the filter cartridge and oil pump join. If a leak is apparent it is due to the filter cartridge or its sealing ring being incorrectly seated. Check the dipstick to ensure the oil level is correct. Remove the oil filler cap from the rocker cover and clean away any deposits from the gauze. Wash the cap in petrol and thoroughly dry it, dip it in Castrol GTX, shake the surplus oil away and replace it on the engine.

Engine oil filter change: 6000 miles A complete new element is fitted Unscrew the old one by hand, and throw it away

Check the new sealing ring is in place and smear it with oil Screw in the new element hand tight Start up and check for leaks

Routine Maintenance 24 e EEE Ee a 7 Adjustment of valve clearances The valve adjustments should be made with the engine cold. The importance of correct rocker arm to valve stem clearances cannot be overstressed as they are vital to the performance of the engine. If the clearances are set too open, the efficiency of the engine is reduced because the valves open later and close earlier than was intended. If, on the other hand, the clearances are set too tight there is a danger that the stems will expand upon heating and not allow the valves to close properly, which will cause burning of the valve head and seat and possible warping. Undo and remove the screws holding the rocker cover to the cylinder head. Then remove the rocker cover and its cork gasket. Numbering from the front of the engine, valve numbers 1, 4, 5 and 8 are exhaust valves and numbers 2, 3 6 and 7 are inlet valves. As it will be necessary to rotate the engine during the adjustment of the valve clearances, remove the plugs to relieve the compression and find a spanner which fits the crankshaft pulley

Ensure no 8 valve is fully open, then working from the front of the engine on no 1 valve the correct clearance is obtained by slackening the hexagon locknut with a spanner while holding the ball pin against rotation with a screwdriver. Then, still pressing down

with the screwdriver,

insert a feeler gauge or gauges of 0.018 inch thickness between the valve stem head and the rocker arm and adjust the ball pin until the feeler gauge will just move in and out without pinching or catching in the gap. Now, holding the ball pin in the correct position with the screwdriver, tighten down the locknut. Following the table shown previously adjust all the seven remaining valves to their correct gaps then replace the rocker cover using a new cork gasket.

nut so it can be used to turn the engine. It is important that the clearance is set when the tappet of the valve being adjusted is on the heel of the cam (ie opposite the peak). To ensure that this is correctly done, carry your adjustments in the following order:

Valve fully open

Check and adjust

Clearance (cold)

valve 8 6 4 7/ 1 3 5 2

valve 1 ) 5 2 8 6 4 7

0.018 0.008 0.018 0.008 0.018 0.008 0.018 0.008

in in in in in in in} in

out

Clearance (cold) GT 0.021 0.011 0.021 0.011 0.021 0.011 0.021 0.011

in in in in in in in in

A valve can be considered to be fully open when its spring is compressed as far as it will go just prior to opening again. Before beginning adjustments it is advisable to rotate the engine slightly and check that you are absolutely sure when a valve is fully open. The correct feeler gauge clearances between the valve stem and the rocker arm pad with the

engine cold is 0.008 inch for the inlet valves and 0.018 inch for the exhaust valves(GT 0.011 and 0.021 inch).

Have ready feelers 0.001 inch bigger and smaller: one should not fit, the other slide freely

8a Distributor contact breaker adjustment Pull off the two clips securing the distributor cap to the distributor body and lift away the cap. Clean it inside and out with a dry cloth. It is unlikely that the four segments will be badly burnt or scored, but if they are a new cap will have to be fitted. Push in the carbon brush located in the top of the cap once or twice to make sure that it moves freely. Gently prise the contact breaker points open to examine the condition of their faces. If they are rough, pitted or very dirty, it will be Aecrest to replace the contact breaker assembly.

Routine Maintenance a Presuming the points are satisfactory measure the gap between the points by turning the engine over until the heel of the fibre (or nylon) cam on the contact set is on the peak of one of the four centre spindle cam lobes.

A 0.025 inch feeler gauge should now just fit between the points. If the gap varies from this amount slacken off the two screws which retain the contact breaker assembly, then insert a small screwdriver in the oval notch on the right end of the assembly viewed from above. By moving the screwdriver backwards and forwards the assembly can be made to turn about its pivot point on the plate, thereby varying the gap. Set the gap at 0.025 inch, tighten down the screws and recheck that the gap is still correct, as it is very easy to move the points slightly when tightening the screws.

8b Distributor - removing and replacing contact breaker assembly To remove the contact breaker assembly undo the angled terminal screw on the side of the assembly and take off the condenser lead and low tension lead from under it. Remove the two retaining screws and lift the assembly away from the distributor. Replacing a new assembly is a reversal of the

25

damaged,

or in the extreme the distributor turned to the position for the next cylinder’s spark. The moment of opening of the contact breaker points is difficult to judge. If an ammeter has been fitted an assistant can watch for the needle flicker. Ideally a sidelamp bulb in a holder with a short pair of leads can be connected across the two terminals of the coil, and this will go out when the points break. Having got the timing correct retighten (but do

not overtighten) the clamp bolt.

Adjusting contact breaker points and timing

removal procedure but care must be taken to ensure that the contact breaker assembly pivot point is correctly located on its hole in the

baseplate. Once the new assembly is in place adjust the points gap to 0.025 inch as described above.

9 Distributor - ignition timing If the contact breaker gap has been altered, or new points fitted, the ignition timing must be reset. The distributor cap will still be off from the previous work: It must be kept off so that the engine will not start up during the timing process. Put the car in top gear, and to turn it over, get a helper to push it forward,

(or if no space, jack up and turn a rear wheel by hand: this is also more accurate). Turn it till the timing notch cut in the crankshaft pulley is lined up, as appropriate for the particular car, as shown in the diagram. The distributor must now be adjusted to have the contact breaker points just opening in this position. Slacken the pinch bolt in the distributor clamp. Turn the body of the distributor asmall amount to get to the position where the points are just opening. Do not turn too much lest the vacuum advance pipe be

Renewing the points

10 Distributor - lubrication Pull off the rotor arm and apply two drops of engine oil to the head of the large screw in the centre of the distributor, or in some cases a small foam pad on its head. This lubricates the shaft bearings.

26

Routine Maintenance

Allow three drops of oil to flow past the base of the cam to the automatic timing mechanism. Smear a faint trace of oil on the cam itself. Apply a tiny spot of oil to the moving contact breaker pivot pin. Too much oil at this point will get onto the points and cause mis-

firing. 11 Spark plugs Remove the spark plugs and clean off all carbon deposits. If your local garage has sand blasting equipment, this is the most effective method of cleaning plugs. Failing that a wire brush will suffice. Draw a fine file across the plug points to finally clear any remaining deposits then check the gap between the electrodes. This should be checked with feeler gauges and

should be 0.023 to 0.028 inch. If the gap is

View of ignition timing marks

incorrect the electrode attached to the plug body should be gently bent until the correct setting is obtained.

Turn the engine over by jacking up a back wheel and engaging top gear. If you overshoot the mark, go on forwards till it comes round again.

Ignition timing 1300 GT 1600 GT 1300 High compression 1600 High compression 1300 Low compression 1600 Low compression 1300 High compression 1600 High compression 1300 Low compression 1600 Low compression

:

10° 8° 10° 10° 10° 10° 6° 6° 4° 4°

BTDC BTDC BTDC BTDC BTDC BTDC BTDC BTDC BTDC BTDC

On 97 octane fuel On 97 octane fuel On 97 octane fuel On 97 octane fuel Using 89 octane fuel Using 89 octane fuel Using 94 octane fuel Using 94 octane fuel Using 86 octane fuel Using 86 octane fuel

Routine Maintenance

27

12 Air cleaner A paper element type air cleaner is fitted to all Capri models and is accessible after removing the top cover from the air cleaner. On all models, except GT cars with Weber carburettors,

the cover

is retained

by a single

central bolt. On GT cars two nuts have to be removed before the lid can be lifted off. Having removed the lid thoroughly clean the interior of the lid and body and then gently brush out the dust from the folds of the paper element. If the element is torn or damaged in any way it must be replaced. When replacing the air cleaner lid, ensure that the arrow on the lid points towards the air cleaner spout.

13 Fuel pump Unscrew the clamp nut on top of the fuel pump, pull aside the clamp and remove the glass bowl. Thoroughly clean the glass bowl inside and out, and use a paintbrush and petrol to clean any sediment from the pump body and filter screen. Ensure that the gasket which seats under the glass bowl is not pitted or split, refit the glass bowl, pull over the retaining clamp and tighten down the clamp nut. Late Capri models have a modified fuel pump with no glass bowl but a centre bolt running through a metal dome. Remove this bolt and clean the pump in the normal way.

14 Emission control valve The emission control valve is located on the right hand side of the engine just to the rear and below the carburettor and above the fuel pump. Disconnect the hose leading into the top of the oil separator by undoing the small clip then pull the emission control valve assembly from its grommet in the oil separator. Dismantle the valve by removing the small circlip in its base and withdrawing the valve seal, valve and spring, noting that the spring fits with its narrower coils downwards towards the circlip and seal. Wash all parts thoroughiy in petrol to remove all sludge or lacquer that may have accumulated. Reassemble in the reverse order and replace on the car.

Air filter element

Removing the sediment bow] Some pumps have the bowl held by a bolt through the centre

28

Routine Maintenance

15 Clutch The cable operated clutch on the Capri is adjusted at this mileage to compensate for any wear in the lining. The adjustment mechanism is where the cable passes through the bellhousing. The clutch should be adjusted until there is a

clearance of 0.138 to 0.144 inch (3.5 to 3.7 mm) between the adjusting nut and its abutment on the bellhousing as indicated in the pictures. Correctly adjusted there should be 0.50 to 0.75 inch (12.7 to 19.1 mm) free play at the clutch

dl

7

dy

ia

c

pedal. To obtain the correct adjustment, slacken off the locknut (A in Fig 28a) and get an assistant to pull the clutch pedal onto its stop, then move the adjusting nut ‘B’ until the correct clearance has been obtained as mentioned in paragraph 2 above. Hold the adjusting nut ‘B’ steady to prevent it moving and retighten the locknut ‘A’ then recheck the clearance and also the pedal free

URN oEN Aw

movement.

eo TARRBRLAY ED »>/)90> >999» » i

16 Gearbox and rear axle Remove the combined level and filler plug from the left hand side of the gearbox. Top the gearbox up to the level of the plug hole with Castrol Hypoy Light. This oil is sold in a special dispenser pack which makes this job very easy. Do not overfill and allow any surplus oil to drain away before replacing the plug. Move to the rear of the car and remove the rear axle combined level and filler plug from the rear of the axle casing. Check the level and top up if necessary with Castrol Hypoy to the bottom of the filler plug hole. Once again do not overfill and allow surplus oil to drain away before replacing the plug.

BLU

|

TK

ee

Ay . — kag :

AY

se | d r

le

(Anz pO

7

ZT IOP

Rear axle filler plug

wt A\\\

\\N

\\

I

gage

Clutch cable adjustment a

A

Locknut

B Adjuster

Routine Maintenance 17 Dynamo Inject three drops of engine oil through the hole in the centre of the rear of the dynamo. This will lubricate the rear bearing.

29

the dynamo either in or out until the correct tension is obtained. It is easier if the dynamo

securing bolts are only slackened slightly so it requires some force to move the dynamo. In this way the tension of the belt can be arrived at more quickly than by making frequent adjust-

18 Fan belt tension The fan belt tension is correct when there is % inch of lateral movement at the mid point Position of the belt between the dynamo pulley wheel and the water pump pulley wheel. To adjust the fan belt, slacken the dynamo securing

bolts

as

indicated,

and

then

move

Qa

ments. If difficulty is experienced in moving the dynamo away from the engine, a long spanner or screwdriver placed behind the dynamo and resting against the cylinder block serves as a very good lever and can be held in this position while the dynamo securing bolts are tightened down.

=e

The fan belt should have % inch slack Slacken all three bolts just enough to allow the dynamo to move stiffly

30

Routine Maintenance

——

19 Front disc brake pads Remove the front wheels and inspect the amount of friction material left on the friction pads. The pads must be renewed when the thickness of the material has worn down to

1/16 inch. With a pair of pliers pull out the two small wire clips that hold the main retaining pins in place. Remove the main retaining pins which run through the caliper, the metal backing of the pads and the shims. The friction pads and shims can now be removed from the caliper. If they prove difficult to move by hand a pair of long nosed pliers can be used. Carefully clean the recesses in the caliper in which the friction pads and shims lie, and the exposed faces of each piston from all traces of dirt and rust. Remove the cap from the hydraulic fluid reservoir and place a large rag underneath the unit. Press the pistons in each half of the caliper, right in - this will cause the fluid level in the reservoir to rise and possibly spill over the brim onto the protective rag. Fit new friction pads and shims ensuring if working on a 1300 caliper that the arrow on the shim is pointing in the direction of forward rotation of the wheel. On other models the shims can be fitted either way up. Insert the main pad retaining pins and secure them with the small wire clips.

If they need holding ing two Pull locating

renewing,

remove

the drum and the wheel cylinder on the other side. When removing the shoes from their slots

in the

wheel

cylinder

great

should

be

Remove the shoes with the return springs still attached; then take off the return springs noting that they are of different lengths and the positions in which they are fitted. Take the self-adjusting ratchet wheel assembly off the wheel cylinder and turn the ratchet wheel until it is right up against the end of the slot headed bolt on which it rotates. This has the effect of adjusting the rear brake to the fully off position. If this is not done it may be found difficult to get the brake drum to fit over the new shoes when reassembling. Replacement of the shoes is a direct reversal of the removal procedure but great care must be taken to ensure that the return springs are correctly fitted. When replacement of the shoes is complete, operate the handbrake several times to allow the rear brake self-adjusting mechanism to bring the shoes into the correct position, then road test the car to ensure the brakes are operating correctly.

is available, then there is no reason why

your own shoes should not be successfully relined. Remove the hub cap, loosen off the wheel nuts, then securely jack up the car, and remove the road wheel. Chock the front wheels and fully release the handbrake. Remove the single setscrew retaining the brake drum and then pull off the drum. The brake linings should be examined and must be renewed if they are so worn that the rivet heads are flush with the surface of the lining. If bonded linings are fitted these must be renewed when the material has worn down to

1/32 inch at this thinnest point.

care

taken not to allow the piston to fall out of the wheel cylinder. This can be kept in place by an elastic band.

20 Rear brake shoes After high mileages it will be necessary to fit replacement brake shoes with new linings. Refitting new brake linings to old shoes is not always satisfactory, but if the services of a local garage or workshop with brake lining equipment

the small

down springs from each shoe by turnsmall top washers through 90°. out the ends of each shoe from their slots in the fixed pivot on one side of

Front hub and brakes

Pulling out the pads

1300 GT, 1600 and 1600 GT pads have a straight edge 1300 pads have a cut-out

Brake drum retaining screw

Rear brake showing adjuster

Routine Maintenance 32 LS 21 Steering gear Jack the car up and from underneath examine the rubber bellows at either end of the steering rack. If there is any sign of damage or leakage of oil they must be renewed or the steering gear will wear very quickly through lack of oil and the ingress of dirt. 22 Rear springs With the car resting on its wheels check the tightness of the rear spring inverted U bolts. These bolts should not be overtightened so do not use a spanner of more than about six inches in length. Also check the condition of the rubber bushes at either end of the springs. If they appear badly worn they must be renewed by your local Ford

garage. Wheel bearing adjustment

23 Front hub bearings - adjustment To check the condition of the hub bearings, jack up the front end of the car and grasp the road wheel at two opposite points to check for any rocking movement in the wheel hub. Watch carefully for any movement in the steering gear, which can easily be mistaken for hub movement. If a front wheel hub has excessive movement, this is adjusted by removing the hub cap and then levering off the small dust cap. Remove the split pin through the stub axle and take off the adjusting nut retainer. If a torque wrench is available tighten the centre adjusting nut down to a torque of 27 |b ft (3.73 kg m) and then slacken it off 90° and replace the nut retainer and a new split pin. Assuming a torque wrench is not available however, tighten up the centre nut until a slight drag is felt on rotating the wheel. Then loosen the nut very slowly until the wheel turns freely again and there is just a perceptible end float. Now replace the nut retainer, a new split pin and the dust cap.

2 General Get a can of Castro! Everyman Lubricating Oil, or if this is not available, ordinary Castrol GTX will do just as well, and apply a few drops of oil to the door, boot and bonnet hinges. It is also worthwhile giving a few drops of oil on all joints on the handbrake linkage and accelerator linkage to prevent sticky operation or seizure. 12,000 MILES Every 12,000 miles or 12 months whichever is sooner 26 Bodywork and underframe The secondhand or trade-in value of your Capri will largely depend on the condition of the car’s bodywork. Although the mechanical running of the car may be perfect, a potential buyer will not be impressed with a scruffy, rust spotted bodyshell. It is very much more difficult to repair neglected bodywork than to renew mechanical assemblies. The hidden portions of the body, such as wheel arches and the underframe and the engine compartment

24 Wheels If any judder or vibration has appeared in the steering over the past 6000 miles, take your car to your local Ford garage and have the front wheels balanced. At the same time it is wise to have the steering geometry checked on their specialised equipment.

are equally

important, though obviously not requiring such frequent attention as the immediately visible paintwork. Once a year or every 12,000 miles, it is advisable to take your car to your local garage and have the underside of the bodywork steam cleaned. This will only take a couple of hours and cost you about £4. This process will remove

ce

Routine Maintenance a a a

a

all traces of dirt and oil from the more inaccessible places and a thorough inspection can then be carried out for signs of rust, frayed wiring, damaged hydraulic pipes, etc. At the same time ask your garage to thoroughly steam clean the engine compartment. If steam cleaning is not available the engine can be cleaned with Gunk or a similar cleanser. Get hold of a stiff paintbrush and thoroughly cover the whole engine and engine compartment with the cleanser, working it well in where there is a heavy accumulation of oil and dirt. Be careful not to get any Gunk on the ignition system (coil, distributor, plug leads,

HT

lead etc) but cover

the system with oily

water repellant rags. Finally, wash all the Gunk away with a hose pipe; as it is washed off it will

take all the dirt and oil with engine looking clean and bright.

it, leaving the

27 Cooling system - antifreeze Every twelve months, probably in late September

or early October,

it is essential

to add

antifreeze to the cooling system to prevent freezing of the coolant and possible damage to the engine in the coming winter months. Before adding the antifreeze thoroughly check the complete system for signs of leaks and correct any if found. It is also advised at this stage to flush the cooling

system

and

thereby

remove

any

rust

scales or sludge which has accumulated over the past year. A description of how this is done can be found in the fault finding chart on page 78. To ensure complete protection against the coldest conditions likely to be encountered it is wise to have a 25 per cent solution of Castrol Antifreeze in the system. In 1300 models you will therefore require 2.7 pints of antifreeze and 7.50 pints of water. On 1600 models you will need 2.9 pints of antifreeze and 8.55 pints water. |deally these should be mixed in a separate container such as a large washing-up bowl before the solution is poured into the radiator (having first closed the drain taps). If a container is not available pour in a little antifreeze at a time followed

by some water, thus ensuring a better

mixing process. It may be found that not all the solution will go in at the first attempt and this is probably due to air-locks forming in the system. Should this happen, replace the radiator cap, start the engine, warm up the car and allow the coolant to circulate, thus removing the air-locks. Then top up with the remainder of the solution.

33

18,000 MILES Every 18,000 miles or 18 months whichever is sooner 28 Air cleaners Remove the paper element from the air cleaner body as described in task 12 and replace it with a new one.

29 Front hub bearings - replacing with grease After jacking up the car and removing the front road wheel, disconnect the hydraulic brake pipe at the union on the suspension unit and either plug the open ends of the pipes, or have a jar handy to catch the escaping fluid. Bend back the locking tabs on the two bolts holding the brake caliper to the suspension unit, unto the bolts and remove the caliper. By judicious tapping and levering remove the dust cap from the centre of the hub. Remove the split pin from the nut retainer and undo the larger nut from the stub axle. Withdraw the thrust washer and the outer tapered bearing. Pull off the complete hub and disc assembly from the stub axle. From the back of the hub assembly carefully prise out the grease seal and remove the inner tapered bearing. Carefully clean out the hub and wash the bearings with petrol, making sure that no grease

or oil is allowed to get onto the brake disc. Working the grease well into the bearings fully pack the bearing cages and rollers with Castrolgrease LM. NOTE: Leave the hub and grease seal empty to allow for subsequent expansion of the grease. To reassemble the hub assembly first fit the inner bearing and then gently tap the grease seal back into the hub. If the seal was at all damaged during removal a new one must be fitted. Replace the hub and disc assembly on the stub axle and slide on the outer bearing and the thrust washer.

30 Brake bleeding Bleeding of the hydraulic system is essential after having removed a caliper to repack the hub bearings as described in task 29. It is also essential should air enter the hydraulic system giving a ‘spongy’ feel to the brake pedal when depressed. Before actually bleeding the system, carry out the checks listed below.

34 Routine Maintenance a ee Examine the fluid reservoir cap to ensure that both vent holes, one on top and the second

underneath but not in line, are clear. Check the level of the fluid and top up if required. Check all brake line unions and connections for possible seepage and at the same time check the condition of the rubber flexible hoses which may have perished. If the condition of the wheel cylinders is in doubt remove the brake drums as previously described and check for fluid leakage. If there is any possibility of incorrect fluid having been put into the system, the complete system will have to be drained, flushed with methylated spirits and all the rubber seals and cups renewed. This is a lengthy process and is not within the scope of this book. Your local garage can do this job for you or if you wish to do it yourself the Haynes Capri Owners Workshop Manual gives full details of the stripping and reassembly of all components.

Open the bleed valve one turn with a spanner and quickly press down the brake pedal. After slowly releasing the pedal, pause for a moment to allow the fluid to recoup in the master cylinder and then depress quickly again. This action will force any air from that part of the system. Continue this process until no more air bubbles can be seen coming from the tube. At intervals make certain that the reservoir is kept topped up, otherwise air will enter at this point again. Once no more air bubbles appear from the tube, tighten down the bleed valve. Repeat this operation on the other front brake and the left hand rear brake, there being no bleed nipple on the right hand rear brake. Check the level of the fluid in the reservoir and then check that there is no feel of sponginess when the brake pedal is depressed. 31 Spark plugs At this mileage change your car for new ones.

the spark

plugs in

Gather together a clean jam jar, a 9 inch length of tubing which fits tightly over the bleed nipples and a tin of Castrol Girling Brake Fluid. To bleed the system, clean the areas round the bleed nipples and start on the front brakes first by removing the rubber cup over the bleed valve, if fitted, and fitting the rubber tube over the valve. Place the end of the tube in the clean jar containing enough fluid to keep the end of the

tube immersed operation.

in fluid

during

the

bleeding

36,000 MILES Every 36,000 miles or three years whichever is sooner 32 Braking system Take your car to your local Ford garage and discuss with them the advisability of renewing all seals and flexible hoses in the braking system and at the same time change the hydraulic fluid completely.

Bodywork -Maintenance, Cleaning, Minor Repairs Introduction Most owners like their cars to look clean, well polished and free of rust. Not only does regular cleaning show up stone chips or rust marks which can be easily attended to before getting worse, but also the appearance is maintained which ensures a good re-sale value for the car. Regular car cleaning is considered by some as a necessary evil and only to be done when absolutely necessary whilst others enjoy this aspect of car care far more than the routine mec hanical maintenance. The secret is to keep the car clean all the time so that it is not allowed to become too dirty making the work all that more

difficult. If you do not feel like doing the job all at one go then divide it into sections as done here in this Chapter and do a little each week. This will give a continuous cleaning programme and enable you to do other jobs as well to break the monotony. Should the car have been recently acquired and it is in a dirty state then take it along to the local Ford garage and have the whole of the underside and engine compartment steam cleaned. This will save a tremendous amount of time. It will not take long and will cost you about £4 but it is well worth it. Once clean it can be kept

clean. See ‘materials needed’ section at the end of the Chapter before starting. Car cleaning - interior Many car owners leave interior cleaning to last and prefer to wash the exterior first. This is really working backwards because the dust created by removal of carpets will only settle on the clean exterior! By regular cleaning the interior, the upholstery will remain in good ‘nearly new’ condition, the carpets fresh and clean and the general appearance smart and well cared for. When the carpeting is removed any water leaks will be evident and the necessary corrective action can be taken before rust sets in.

First empty the under dash panel tray, rear parcel shelf, under the front seats and the boot of all the bits and pieces that have collected over the past few months of motoring, and place in a large cardboard box ready for sorting out and replacing. Lift out the rubber slip mats, the carpeting and underfelt. The rubber mats may be washed if very dirty or just shaken to remove loose dirt. The carpeting may be brushed, shaken or beaten to remove the dust and dirt. If badly marked they can be washed using a carpet shampoo and laid out to dry in the sun. Underfelt should be carefully shaken but not washed or beaten otherwise it will be difficult to dry and may start to break up. If the carpeting around the pedals is worn renew it otherwise it can be dangerous, especially for women drivers. Next lift out the rear seat cushion which will give better access for the operations following. Using a vacuum cleaner with a flexible hose remove all traces of dust and grit. With a suitable upholstery cleaner diluted as recommended by the manufacturer wash down all upholstery body trim and roof lining. Use a neat solution on stubborn stains. Wipe off all traces of cleaner or soap with a moistened cloth and finally rub dry with a clean non-fluffy rag. Do not use too much water as it will cause excessive condensation in the car, unless it is a hot day, and the doors will have to be left open for a while. The interior paintwork may next be cleaned using adamp cloth and polished using a domestic aerosol polish and clean non-fluffy rag. Door handles and chrome trim should be lightly rubbed with a moistened cloth. To clean the interior glass, interior mirror and instrument cluster glass add a little methylated spirits to water and wipe over with a soft cloth. Do not use ordinary domestic cleaners. Inspect the seat belts for damage and make sure that the anchorages are still firm. The belt may be washed in warm soapy water and wiped dry with an old towel.

Bodywork - Maintenance, Cleaning, Minor Repairs 36 eee oe Wash down the doors, boot lid and bonnet apertures and their edges. Remove all traces of

lubricant with a paraffin moistened cloth. Take care to clean around the door hinges and locks as these are dust traps. With a piece of wire probe the door drain holes to make sure that they are free of blockage. Inspect the floor pan for signs of rusting or leaking at the various seams. De-rust using Kurust and seal with a flexible sealing compound such as Seelastik. Whilst the front doors are open make sure that the little courtesy light switches located in the door pillars operate freely. Check the bulb in the courtesy light for operation or for a disconnected cable at the rear of the switch if the bulb does not light. Next go round all nuts, bolts and screws and

make sure that all are tight and then lubricate the door locks and hinges, courtesy light switch plunger, choke control and front seat runners to ensure precise and free movement.

Turning to the boot, remove the rest of the contents including spare wheel and vacuum out all dust and dirt. Wipe the paintwork down with a damp cloth. If carpeting is fitted clean this in a similar manner to the interior carpeting. Again look for water leaks especially in the corners and if necessary seal with Seelastik once the rust has been neutralised. Clear the drain holes using a piece of wire. Using an oil can lubricate the handbrake lever assembly and the pedal pivots. Inspect the pedal rubbers for signs of excessive wear and fit new ones if necessary. It is dangerous to drive with worn pedal rubbers for on a wet day it is easy for the foot to accidentally slip off the pedal. Should you have a slight tear on one of the seats or trim panel, cut a piece of spare trim from the underside of one of the seats and apply a coat of impact adhesive such as clear Bostik. Insert the patch into the hole with the glue uppermost and then apply adhesive to the flap of the trim section. Allow the recommended drying time to pass and then press down the torn edges, trying to get the edges as close together as possible which will make the repair less pronounced. Any large tears will have to be repaired using a piece of matching material which is obtainable from the local Ford garage. The time has now come for touching up the interior paintwork and full details for this will be found later in this Chapter. Once the paint is dry, the rear seat cushion and carpeting may be

refitted followed by the articles that live on the parcel shelf and in the boot. This is a good time to check the contents of the first-aid kit, if carried, and any deficiencies should be made up. Check the tools in the car tool roll and lubricate the threads of the jack. Stow away the contents of the boot making sure that the main tool kit is so situated where it will not slide around or rattle.

Car cleaning - exterior (underside) It was recommended in the introduction to this Chapter that if the car is in a dirty state it be taken to the local agents for steam cleaning. With the underside relatively clean it is an easy matter to keep it clean. Remove the interior carpeting and contents of the boot. Jack up the car as high as possible and remove the road wheels. With a garden hose, a stiff brush, tin of paraffin and scraper and, of course, suitably clad for a soaking, soak the dirt accumulated under the wheel arches and crevices, loosening where necessary with the hand scraper. This will require a lot of time and patience but working systematically front to rear remove dirt and oil. Whilst the underside of the car is drying check the seams for signs of leaking. Also generally check the tightness of all visible nuts and bolts and make sure the various pipes and wires are securely clipped to the underside of the body floor pan. Inspect the underside for signs of rusting and, if evident, clear with a wire brush and neutralise with Kurust. When the underside is really dry, seal any leaking seams with a flexible sealing compound. Wipe off the Kurust with a rag soaked in methylated spirits and apply a coat of suitable red oxide cellulose primer surfacer. Allow to dry and if the part is visible finish off with a coat of Holts car enamel spray of the matching body paint colour. Any underbody sealer requires regular inspection to make sure there are no loose flakes. If this is evident scrape off the loose area and remove any rust as described in the last paragraph. Apply a coat of red oxide cellulose primer surfacer and allow to dry. Underbody sealer is available in a brush-on form, although when applied fresh at the garage it is sprayed on. A tin of this should be obtained and brushed on using a two inch paintbrush. On the wheel arches it is recommended that, because of stones being thrown up by the tyres, two coats are applied, with time allowed for drying between each coat.

a

Bodywork - Maintenance, Cleaning, Minor Repairs a a a a a

Finally, before lowering the car to the ground again check the exhaust system for leaks with the engine running. Take care not to allow the engine to run for too long otherwise there may be an accumulation of exhaust fumes under the Car.

Car cleaning - exterior It is recommended that once a week the exterior of the car be washed and wiped dry. For this job a flexibrush on the end of the garden hose is best, a sponge to assist wiping down and a leather to finish the operation off. First make sure that all windows and doors are closed and place a piece of polythene sheeting over the engine behind the grille to shield the electrics, providing that the engine has not just been run for obvious safety reasons, thoroughly wet the car with water using a gentle spray. Take care not to aim the jet of water directly at the windows or body seams which could start water leaks. Once the dirt has been loosened wipe down the panels using the brush with water still running through it as this way the paintwork should not be scratched by road grit. Next apply wax car shampoo or household detergent washing up liquid, working from the roof downwards. Any stubborn dead flies, marks or tar may be removed using white spirit on a soft cloth. Do not forget to clean the wing mirrors, front grille, the wiper blades and, of course, the wheels with the hub caps removed. A leather must not be used with a detergent or shampoo as this will cause it to rot. Finally rinse off all the suds with plenty of clean water and wipe dry using a leather. Wipe all spots and smears from the windscreen, rear screen and door glass using the leather. When the car is dry the glass may be polished with a rag soaked in a methylated spirits and water solution. Chromium plating requires regular cleaning with a damp cloth or leather. Occasionally. one of the special polishes for chromium plating may be used but on no account use an ordinary metal polish. Every six months it is recommended that the exterior be wax polished. There are, however, several important points to be noted before polish is used on a Car. If the car is new do not polish for at least two months to allow the paint to dry fully and harden. If part of the paintwork has been re-sprayed treat as if new. Do not use a cutting paste to remove the dull

37

film from cars sprayed with a metallic paint. When purchasing a wax polish always make sure that it is suitable for the type of paintwork on the car. Do not attempt to wax polish a car in the sun or when the body is still warm, having been in the sun. It will bake on and have to be removed with petrol. Do not wax polish a car which has just been washed because paintwork absorbs moisture so giving an effect called ‘micro blistering’ caused by minute rust spots under the paint film. Finally some ‘don’ts’ to avoid deterioration of the paintwork:

Don’t dust down

or polish a dusty car. Al-

ways wash.

Don’t get polish or wax on any of the glass. Don’t neglect hidden parts of the doors when polishing. Don’t leave birdlime on the paintwork -it will cause stains. Don’t park under trees especially in the hot sun or when raining. Don’t use a cutting compound or haze remover on Cars finished with an acrylic paint. Don’t use wax without cleaning the car first. Bodywork - paint touch-up On any car with a steel body the greatest enemy of all is rust and this is most likely to start under the wings or along the sills because the road wheels will fling water, mud and grit onto the paint surface and it will only be a matter of time before the paint skin is penetrated and rusting starts. It is for this reason that many new cars are given a thick coat of underseal, usually of a bituminous or rubber base. However, if this was the end of the story paint maintenance would be relatively simple, but unfortunately it is not because chips appear at the front of the wings, along the outside of the wing panels and doors as well as the edges of the bonnet and boot lid. Whilst the car is being cleaned these chip marks will become evident and it is important that they are attended to immediately otherwise rusting will occur and spread so that what was once a small chip will gradually turn into a large area requiring a great deal more renovation work. Touch-up paint is usually available in either touch-up

pencil, tin with a little brush in the lid

or aerosol form and may match to the original body ever, be realised that some stable than others. Due to

be obtained as a good colour. It must, howpaint colours are more the action of sunlight

Bodywork - Maintenance, Cleaning, Minor Repairs 38 eT on an older car an exact match may be difficult unless a tin of touch-up paint is mixed by the paint department of your local Ford garage to match the exact colour of your car. Use a touch-up tin with brush incorporated in the lid for making-good chips and very small scratches.

To prepare the surface for touching up first use a silicone solvent to remove all traces of polish which will not allow the paint to adhere properly. If there are signs of rusting or the paint beginning to lift use a sharp pen knife and carefully scrape away the loose paint and rust. Then neutralise the rust with a little Kurust and allow to dry. With a piece of rag soaked in methylated spirits wipe away the dry Kurust. The prepared spot may now be touched in with the touch-up brush. Shake the tin vigorously for a few minutes to ensure that the paint is well mixed and withdraw the brush. Wipe the brush on the inside of the neck of the tin and then dip in the end of the brush until there is a little paint on it just sufficient to touch in the area concerned. Very carefully apply a thin coat of paint only to the area concerned and allow to dry thoroughly. Apply a further thin coat so as to build up the paint to the original paint thickness. This will take time and patience but with care the touch-up should be indistinguishable from the surrounding area. If there is a scratch on the paintwork which has penetrated the top coat of paint and the red primer is showing through, the basic procedure is the same. First remove all traces of polish with a solvent and then with the knife lift off any loose paint. Neutralise any rust and finally touch in the scratch, preferably with one sweep of the brush. For this a fine brush may be better than the brush provided with the tin. Build up the paint to the original paint thickness. The edges of doors and boot lid seem to suffer very much and small areas of rust frequently appear. In this case an aerosol tin of primer and enamel top coat will be required. Again use the silicone solvent to remove any polish from the area concerned. Rub down the paint around the area with a little wet or dry paper grade 400 until the area is smooth. As the name implies the paper can be used either dry or with water; the latter method tending to keep the grit of the paper clear also the water acts as a lubricant. Neutralise any rust with Kurust and when dry wipe with a piece of cloth soaked in methylated spirits. Before spraying make sure the car is sheltered

from wind and dust. Shake the aerosol tin of primer for a few minutes to ensure that there is no sediment in the bottom, usually the manufacturer drops ina ball bearing to assist agitation of the paint. If this is the first time that an aerosol tin is being used try it on a piece of metal to get the ‘feel’ of the spray and then proceed to spray the prepared surface. Remember the success of this work lies in the preparation. The smoother the prepared surface, the better will be the finish. Hold the jet about six inches away from the area to be sprayed and work from the centre outwards, keeping the centre moist and the out-

side lightly sprayed and dry. When dry, very lightly rub the primer with wet or dry paper to roughen up the surface and then inspect it for blemishes caused by dust or bad preparation. Rectify any faults by rubbing down again and applying a further coat of primer. It is only when the surface under repair is perfect that the final top coat may be applied. Again ‘feel’ the spray on another surface, and when you are confident apply the top coat to the primer. Remember it is like ordinary household pair ting - two thin coats are better than one thick coat. Should runs occur it is an indication that either too much paint has been applied at one go or the nozzle was too near to the surface being sprayed. Rub down the area concerned and start again. With all touching-up, be it a small spot or a larger area, allow the paint to dry thoroughly

at least overnight, and then use a little rubbing compound to blend in the edges of the paint and remove any dry spray. If the rusted area is near to a piece of chrome trim there is no need to remove it but mask up the chrome trim with a little sellotape or proper masking tape. This may be removed once the paint is half dry leaving no paint overspray marks

on the trim. Take care when sticking down the tape and use a knife to push it around any curved areas. Should the scratch be only a minor one without penetration through to the undercoat it may be removed using a rubbing compound, but take

great care in its use. It may leave a light patch. Bodywork - deep scratching, dent or crease removal This type of repair requires a little more work but is well within the do-it-yourself motorists’ Capabilities, provided that care is taken and the job isnot rushed. Again preparation is the secret

BuiAeids pue ‘uMop Buiqqns ‘43))15 843 UMOop Bul)i4

Bodywork - Maintenance, Cleaning, Minor Repairs 40 eee to good results. The method of approach will depend on the location of the damage but in all cases if it is possible to push the dent or crease out from behind, so much the better. This may

mean removal of a piece of interior trim. Should, this present problems then do not worry too much unless the original shape cannot be achieved (even with building up with a filler). For safety reasons on this next operation wear a pair of goggles or glasses to protect the eyes. Using an electric sander with an abrasive disc on the rubber pad or electric drill with suitable attachment remove all the paint right down to the bare metal from the area surrounding the damage as well as the damaged area itself. Work the area until all traces of paint including undercoat and primer have been removed and an area of bare metal is obtained. Next coat the area of bare metal with a special zinc primer such as Galvafroid Primer to give additional protection against future corrosion as well as providing a key for the body filler. Allow to dry thoroughly. The body filler next must be prepared according to the manufacturer's instructions. Usually these come in two parts, a tin of filler in paste form and a hardener. Read through the mixing instructions and when fully conversant mix only enough for immediate use to guard against waste. Most fillers are expensive to waste - once the hardener has been added the paste has a very limited working time of a few minutes. It is best to mix the hardener using a piece of plastic or very stiff card on a piece of hardboard or similar material. The filler should be applied to the damaged area and to about one inch either side of it so to allow for preparing the surface for final finishing. Do not, however, apply the filler to paintwork as it will not adhere properly. Carefully smooth the filler to the contour of the body panel, but do not try to work the filler once it has started to harden. When the filler has hardened it should be rubbed down using coarse wet or dry paper grade 120. Do not use an electric sander for this or subsequent operations as its action is too fierce. Carefully rub the surface smooth until the contour matches the rest of the panel and is also relatively smooth. Use the paper either wet or dry. Wash down the area being worked upon and inspect for imperfections and small air holes Or areas requiring further building up. On flat panels use a sanding block but on curved areas just use the paper by itself. however,

ee

Mix some more filler and apply where necessary to make good any defects found. When the filler is dry blend into the rest of the area using wet and dry paper. — Now using 280 grade paper wet, rub down the complete area, taking care to blend the filler edges to the bare metal. This may take time but remember the preparation determines the quality of finish. Wipe the complete area dry and inspect again for blemishes. These must be rectified at this stage. With the palm of the hand ‘feel’ the surface for any high or low spots caused by overambitious rubbing down and again rectify if evident. When you are entirely satisfied that the area is perfect the next stage is to mask over any adjoining panels or chrome trim with sellotape or masking tape and newspaper. Apply a coat of Galvafroid Primer to give a good key for the second primer as well as giving additional rust protection. Allow to dry. The primer may now be applied with a good quality paintbrush which does not moult. Paint the whole of the area under repair and allow to dry. Very lightly rub down the surface with 400 grade paper wet, and inspect for any imperfections. Then wash down and allow to dry fully. Apply a second coat of primer and again lightly rub down and wash. The repair is now ready to receive the top coat. Holding the nozzle about six inches away from the surface spray behind any catches or fittings first and then work from the centre of the panel outwards until the repaired section of the panel is covered. Make sure that the paint overlaps the existing paint by a couple of inches to allow for feathering, and allow to dry. Lightly rub down the surface with 400 grade paper wet, and allow to dry. Now spray on a second top coat and if necessary a third coat until the depth of colour matches the original paintwork. When the final coat is completely dry rub the surface with a soft cloth and some rubbing compound paying particular attention to the areas where the new paint overlaps the original. Wipe off the compound and inspect the finished result for signs of any blemishes which should be corrected by rubbing down and respraying. Finally, remove the masking tape and paper and lightly polish with a clean soft cloth. Do not apply a polish for at least two months to allow the paint to harden.

Bulsieday snOoas

UOISOIIOD YIM

PazesOjsad DuIZ Pue

4Jajjif

42 SS

Bodywork - Maintenance, Cleaning, Minor Repairs

Provided that care was taken in of materials and the instructions results should be satisfactory but has gone wrong the following table assistance:

the selection followed the if something should be of

Should a body panel such as a lower door section, leading edge of a wing or sill as opposed

FAULT

CAUSE

Blotchy finish

Insufficient number of primer or top coats Spray nozzle too near panel during spraying. Too much paint applied Too thick a coat application Spray nozzle too far away

Paint runs

Rippling (called

Orange Peel) Matt finish

Creasing Overspray

Rough finish Faded patches of top coat

(called blooming’)

Bodywork - serious corrosion

to a main structural member be badly corroded

from panel. Not all dust from previous flatting operation removed Unsuitable materials used for primer or top coat Insufficient masking - use cutting compound to remove it Sparying in dusty or windy conditions Usually caused by spraying in damp conditions. Most pronounced with dark colours

it is within the capabilities of the do-it-yourself owner to make the panel loose as good as new.

The first thing to do is to sand down the affected area for a further inspection. Do not forget to wear goggles or glasses to protect the eyes. Use an electric drill with sanding attachment fitted with a coarse disc to remove the paint from the rusted section as well as the immediate area surrounding the more visible part affected. Next hammer or cut away all affected metal until sound metal is reached and then treat with Galvafroid Primer to check subsequent corrosion.

Obtain a piece of perforated zinc sheet found in old meat safes and cut off a section, larger than the hole produced by the removal of affected metal, and insert into the hole, if necessary, moulding it in the shape of the panel. Use paper clips or small self-tapping screws to keep it in place.

Inspect for rust at vulnerable points

Bodywork - Maintenance, Cleaning, Minor Repairs

43

SSS Ss SsSSS

Mix sufficient filler according to the makers’ instructions to apply a thin coat to the zinc sheet and immediate surrounding area and work it well in so to provide a good key for subsequent layers. Allow to dry. Continue building up, a layer at a time, until the contour of the body panel has been reproduced and then allow to dry. Thereafter follow the instructions given in the last section, shaping and blending the filler to the existing body contour and finally paint. Materials needed Before any car cleaning, minor bodywork repair or paintwork is attempted it is recommended that the following list of possible requirements is studied and the materials obtained before any operation is contemplated. Car cleaning - interior Vacuum cleaner Carpet brush and shampoo Upholstery cleaner Soft soap (non-caustic) Clean non-fluffy rags Furniture polish Small bottle methylated spirits Small bottle paraffin Jar of Kurust Seelastik flexible sealing compound Bostik impact clear adhesive Oil can

Car cleaning - exterior (underside) Wire brush Jar of Kurust Seelastik flexible sealing compound Small bottle methylated spirits Red oxide cellulose primer surfacer Holts car enamel spray (matching colour) Tin brushing underbody sealer Tin Holts Gun Gum

Car cleaning - exterior Hose and flexibrush Car shampoo Leather

Sponge

Piece of polythene sheeting about 3 ft square Bottle of white spirit Small bottle methylated spirits Clean non-fluffy rag Tin wax polish Tin chrome plate cleaner

Bodywork - paint touch-up Touch-up tin of matching enamel paint Bottle silicone solvent Jar of Kurust Small bottle methylated spirits Wet or dry paper 400 grade Touch-up paint - aerosol - primer Touch-up paint - aerosol - matching enamel paint Sellotape or masking tape Newspaper Belco rubbing compound

Bodywork - deep scratching, dent removal 1 pair goggles Electric sander with abrasive disc Galvafroid Primer 1 pack Cataloy body filler 1 piece of plastic or stiff card

or crease

(approx 3” x 2”) 1 piece of hardboard or plywood (approx 1’ x 1’) Wet or dry paper grade 120 Wet or dry paper grade 280 1 tin brushing primer 1 good quality paintbrush

Holts car enamel spray (matching colour of car) Holts car primer spray Clean non-fluffy rag Sellotape or masking tape Newspaper Belco rubbing compound Bodywork - serious corrosion Metal cutters Perforated zinc sheet Plus all items mentioned section

in the

previous

Steering gear, linkage, and front suspension

Preparing your Car for the MOT Test The Ford Capri has now been in production since January 1969. At the time of writing earlier examples are now eligible for the MOT Test and more and more will become so as the

lowered the car to the ground check the car on full lock in both directions and make sure that the wheels do not foul the bodywork and chafe

years go by. The test itself concentrates mainly on safety aspects although other points are also checked and may result in a failure if not considered serviceable. If you have carried out the routine maintenance on your car correctly

The degree of wear allowed in the steering gear is not laid down in a precise manner but it is up to the individual judgment of the tester as to whether he considers the car to be in a safe condition. Some testers may be more stringent than others but do not risk driving a car with faulty steering; always have worn parts replaced as a matter of course.

and at regular intervals as shown earlier in this book you have a far better chance of passing the test than if the car has been neglected in any way. The points the tester will be looking for are as follows:

Steering With the car standing on level ground check the play on the steering wheel. It should move no more than three inches at its outer edge before the wheels begin to move. Open the bonnet and check the security and condition of the flexible coupling just above the point where the pinion enters the rack. If it is loose or worn it could well be the cause of too much play at the wheel and must be renewed.

Jack the front of the car up, having first applied the handbrake

and

rock the wheels to

check if there is any wear in the wheel bearings. Adjust them or renew as necessary as detailed in the Routine Maintenance section of this book. Rest the car on stands or wooden blocks at the front, get under the car and check the condition of the rubber bellows at either end of the steering gear. If they are damaged in any way

or are

leaking oil, they must be renewed.

Check the tightness of the U bolts holding the steering rack assembly to the front crossmember. Check the tightness of all the linkages in the steering mechanism and check that all the nuts are tight and where applicable have their split pins correctly fitted. Excessive play or wear in any of the linkage may result in a test failure so this should be dealt with by your local garage

before the car is submitted for the test. Having

the tyres.

Brakes Carefully examine all the metal and flexible hydraulic pipes and hoses for signs of leaking, corrosion

and chafing. Clean off the mud, dirt etc from the flexible hoses and examine them for signs of perishing, bulging or wear caused by rubbing or stones.

Check round the brake calipers and drums for any sign of hydraulic fluid leakage from the pistons or wheel cylinders. This form of leakage will severely affect braking efficiency when the car is road tested. Get in the car, release the handbrake and depress the brake pedal. If there is excessive travel on the pedal before the brakes come on, the self-adjusting mechanism on the rear brakes is not working correctly and will have to be attended to by your local Ford garage. If there is evidence of sponginess on the pedal it will mean that air has entered the system and the brakes will have to be bled as described in task 30 in the Routine Maintenance section of this book. Check that the handbrake cable is in good condition and that the clevis pins on the rear brake backplates are not worn and that their retaining split pins are in place. Provided the self-adjusting mechanism is functioning correctly the handbrake should travel up its ratchet about four or five clicks when fully applied.

Tyre pressure check. Take two readings. Check when cold. Any pressure drop compared with the opposite side implies an impending puncture.

Use a gauge to measure tread depth, and do so at various places around the tread

Check brake pipes for cracking or rubbing

| Jack up and check for wear in wheel bearings, suspension}

and steering

Preparing your car for the MOT Test SS SS

Lights Switch on all the lights and check that they are all functioning correctly. Check the operation of the headlamps in the full beam and dipped positions. Also check that the main beam warning light operates when the lights are on full beam.

Back the car up against a wall and check that the brake stop lights work both with and without the side lights on. Check the operation of the indicator lights both front and rear. They should flash at between 50 and 120 times per minute. Check that the lenses of the stop and brake lights are not broken or faded; they must show a clear red light. Bodywork and underframe

The tester will examine

the car thoroughly

for excessive signs of rust and corrosion, parti-

cularly where the corrosion points may affect safety of the car, such as rear spring mounting points, front strut mounting points, etc. He will also examine the state of the exhaust system and if this is badly rusted, loose, or has obvious holes in it the car may fail its test.

the

Road test The purpose of the tester driving the car on the road is to ensure himself that it handles correctly with regard to steering and brakes. If there is anything major wrong with the steering, you

will

probably

already

have

spotted

this

47 Sn

A

fault and had it rectified before the test. The tester will check the efficiency of brakes by using a decelerometer, a piece equipment which is not readily available to public. However, you can do a rough test the brakes by using an ordinary brick. Get

of the on the

car

onto a reasonably long, deserted, straight and smooth piece of road, place the brick on the passenger side floor on one of its narrow longer sides and gently accelerate up to 30 mph. Checking that it is safe to do so, apply the

brakes hard without actually locking the wheels. The brick should fall over at this point quite quickly. Repeat the test and stop the car using the handbrake only; this time the brick should just topple over quite gently. lf the car pulls violently to one side or the other on heavy braking this may well cause failure of the test. Refer in this case to the fault finding chart on Page 84. Conclusion If all appears to be well the car can now be submitted for its test. Before taking it in make sure you have the log book and the old test certificate to hand for the tester. Have some petrol in the tank to enable the road test to be carried out. It is advisable to leave instructions with the garage that any minor faults found should be put right on the spot to prevent a further waste of time and money. Any major faults should be told to you before the repair work is begun.

Front suspension top mounting on the inner wing under the bonnet. Check its condition and consult your garage if it appears rusty or loose

the

SA oe ZL g

SA ooh pa

PPRL S

at te

.

Over inflated

Under inflated

= b beoO~ ® ae} oO pas® ~& _ ® ® () x oO E Qa £ nn O° — dangerous and illegal cross-ply tyres. It is unnecessary for this type of excessive wear to take place. It is possible to rectify the causes of these types of wear early on if regular checking takes place. Consult your local Ford garage if in doubt.

Excessive toe in or toe-out

Buying and Selling a Used Ford Capri 1300/1600 As the Capri, at the time of writing, is a comparatively new car it consequently commands a reasonably high price on the secondhand market. Almost all Capris being offered for sale now will be in good bodily condition, but the Capri by its sporting image lends itself to being driven pretty hard and you will be well advised to give the car you propose to buy a thorough check-over before deciding to part with your money, no matter how good it may look on first appearances. Listed, following, are a number of points to look for on these particular cars before making up your mind. Walk round the car.a few yards away from it and see if it sits evenly on the ground. Does the paintwork on the body panels match up perfectly? If not the car has probably been in an accident. If you suspect respraying check closely round the chrome strips and windscreen rubbers to see if there is any evidence of paint on them. If you suspect signs of filler a good way of checking this is to run along the suspect area with a magnet. The magnet will not grip on areas that have been filled. Check the operation and tight fitting of the doors, boot lid and bonnet. Look for signs of rust round the wings, sills, particularly the area of the front wings, etc and for any signs of paintwork bubbling. This will indicate rust coming through from underneath which may have been covered up by a quick spray but which will eat its way through again very quickly. Look at the condition of the upholstery in the car, unless the seats have been covered. This

will give a fair idea as to the way the car was treated by its previous owner. Also look at the wear on the carpets and, if not replaced, the pedal rubbers. Replacement too indicates age. Whilst in the car try the handbrake to see if itis correctly adjusted, the footbrake and clutch

to check the pedal travel and free movement. Move the gear stick into all positions to see if it is positive and precise. Get out of the car and open the bonnet. Have a thorough check round the engine compartment for signs of either oil or water leaks. Remove the dipstick and check the colour and level of the oil. If it is very black it will need changing. If there is evidence, by feel of grittiness and faint traces of white metal in the oil the engine is probably badly worn. Check the condition of all ignition HT leads. If they are cracked they will need renewing at an early date. Check that the distributor and its cap are firm and not damaged in any way. Ask someone to start the engine and have a look at the colour of the exhaust gases. If it is very smoky or blue this indicates considerable wear in the engine. The colour of the end of the exhaust pipe should be a slight grey indicating a good clear running engine. If it is black and sooty the engine is burning oil. Listen to the engine while it is running. There should be no taps or rattles of any kind. When the engine is revved up suddenly there should be no evidence of any excessive noise other than normal engine noise; any heavy thumping at this stage may indicate worn big end bearings. Turning to the electrical system check that all the lights, including the indicator lights, work correctly and are consistently bright and do not fluctuate with engine speed. Check that the ignition warning light goes out immediately the engine speed is increased from idling. Have a good look round the battery for signs of seepage, cracking etc and check the condition of the battery terminals. Check the top of the front suspension mountings for rust. These are either side of the engine on the inner wings. Then close the bonnet. Walk round the car again and examine the state of the tyres. Check that, if worn, they have

td (1)(SorJ2)(5)

(D) (DO58)

D (

— (ppecss12212) Sora X VEHICLE

NUMBER

PAINT CODE

A FORD prRopucT MADE

2. Left-hand drive

|

A— DRIVE

1 Right hand drive

| |

B— ENGINE

S or J2 TorJ1

1300 1300

High Compression Low Compression

Uor L2

1600

High Compression

W or L1 R or J3 X or L3

1600 1300 1600

Low Compression GT

C— TRANSMISSION

D— REAR AXLE

|

E— TRIM

GT

5

Floor change manual

7

Floor mounted automatic

A. CG. =

3.545 to 1 3.900 to 1 4.444 to 1

IN ENGLAND

B. D.

S47 Aton 4.125to1

This code consists of a letter and three numbers (DO58) and indicates the colour and type of material used within the car

F — BODY

D G

De Luxe GT

G-—Svc

This denotes

the date of manufacture

of the car if the vehicle

is shipped

un-

assembled from one factory to another for assembly

H — VEHICLE

PAINT CODE

NUMBER

A code, which is explained at the front of every parts list denoting country and plant of manufacture, body style, year and month of manufacture and serial number

Indicates the colour and type of original paint

Buying and Selling a Used Capri done so evenly. If they have worn unevenly or show signs of scuffing there possibly may be something wrong with the suspension geometry or the steering. Also check the condition of the spare and ensure that it is inflated. Whilst checking the spare, make sure that there is a jack (and a wheel brace) of the correct type for the car. Try to rock the front wheels, both vertically and horizontally. Any movement may indicate maladjusted front wheel bearings or wear in the steering linkage. Get back in the car and check how much movement there is on the steering wheel rim before the wheels move. There should not be more than 4 inches as an absolute maximum. Any more than this indicates wear in the linkage. Check the condition of the shock absorbers by bouncing the car on its suspension at all four corners. Good shock absorbers will return the car to rest almost immediately; with worn shock absorbers the car will continue to bounce for a second or so. Having checked all these points, ask whoever is trying to sell the car that you would like a road test (this is not possible at car auctions). Do not immediately drive the car yourself but spend the first few minutes in checking a few more

points

such

as

interior

noise

level, any

51

excessive transmission noise, clonks on taking up the drive, indicating worn universal joints or back axle. When

you

start

driving yourself

check

the

following points:

a) Does the car steer well without wandering and too much correcting? b) Is the gearbox smooth and does the synchromesh operate correctly without crunching the gears? c) Try the brakes, first gently then hard, warning your passenger of your intention to do so. Do they pull the car up quickly, without judder and without pulling the car to one side or the other?

Once your road test has been completed open the bonnet again and check that there are still no signs of leakage of oil or water. If you want to make sure you are paying a reasonable price for the car it is worth purchasing a copy of the ‘Motorists Guide to New and Used Car Prices’ which is published monthly and can be found on most bookstalls. It gives a very fair assessment as to the value of a used car, according to model, year, condition, etc. The decision to buy or not now rests with you.

When looking at the bodywork check for signs of leaks, or rust, as well as general indications of how the car has been cared for

Buying and Selling a Used Capri

5 -, eo

AY ~

id

When looking under the car for rust check the exhaust: beware of badly flaking pipes or silencers, perished rubber supports: listen for leaks with the engine idling

Selling Much of what has been said with regard to buying a used Capri is relevant in selling one, except, of course, that the boot is on the other foot. Whatever the reasons are for selling, be they that you want a bigger, better of different car, you simply need the money, or your circumstances have changed, there is the relatively simple, standard approach - you want the best price for your car. With this end in view, whilst we hope that you will be giving value for money at the same time, there is a basic method of preparation for the car. Cleanliness is all. The cleaner the car, the higher the price. The bodywork’s condition, both inside and out, should be the main selling point. Mechanical repair work js usually cheaper and faster to undertake than extensive bodywork repairs or renovation.

The condition of the bodywork is usually indicative of the total condition of the car because it will show signs of age and disrepair sooner than the engine or gearbox, particularly on cars more than three years old. It is unlikely that owners will keep their cars in excellent condition mechanically and allow the body to drop off around it. Attend to the paintwork, chrome and all exterior trim, clean the outside thoroughly and polish the car, clean out the boot, the engine compartment and ‘spring clean’ the interior. There are methods of doing this explained in the Bodywork Chapter of this book. Because of the short time usually taken to actually complete a sale there can only be

something by

less than a complete detailed check

a potential

quick visual one.

purchaser

and

rather

more,

a

Buying and Selling a Used Capri As there are various ways of buying a used

car so there are similar methods of selling but they are considered on their merits from completely different stand points. The way in which you sell your car will depend on why you are selling and these reasons were described in the first paragraph under ‘Selling’. The best prices are often obtained when part exchanging your car for anew one from an accredited dealer. However, shop around from dealer to dealer; their buying-in prices will vary according to how eager they are to sell the new car you want, and how eager they are to actually have your present with many dealers not wanting used cars of more than three years old it may be better to sell privately whatever your circumstances. Here, local papers, notice boards etc are the best media for selling. It is unlikely that you will receive the best price from a used car dealer at least as a cash transaction, unless he requires a good example for a particular customer, because he will have to put his mark-up onto the car to re-sell. Auctions do not often provide the best recompense. You can, of course, put on a reserve price. They usually do provide a sale, though, if you are finding it difficult to sell your particular Car. The same premise applies when you are selling your car as when you are buying one with regard to the actual selling price. The same

53

guide is valid. However, there are other indications. Go around to various dealers and ask them for the prices of used cars of a similar age and condition to yours and look at the prices in the local papers, and then fix a reasonable price and be prepared to bargain. There are obviously price trends with regard to time and place to sell. Prices usually creep upwards in the spring and you may be fortunate to live in a high demand area such as London or eastern England where prices will again be marginally higher than elsewhere.

car to re-sell. Nevertheless,

In conclusion remember when selling your car that the Law exists both to protect you and the buyer. The Trades Description Act does affect you as the seller. If the car you are selling is under a hire purchase agreement, the permission of the finance company must be obtained first. Irrespective of the age of your car it must have a current road fund licence, MOT certificate (when applicable) and insurance before it can even be tested on the road. Always give a receipt and do not part with the car and log book until you are sure you have the money if you are paid by cheque. Do not forget to make sure your name is removed from the log book and the buyer’s inserted and that the local

Taxation Office ownership.

is informed

of a change of

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CODE

WIRING COLOUR

CODE

WIRING COLOUR

R

Red Black

Y LG

Yellow Light Green

Blue White

P O

Purple Orange

Br

Brown

Pk

Pink

G

Green

CODE

ITEM

Bk

BI w

CODE

|

ITEM turn signal lamp (front) turn signal lamp (front) side lamp (front) side lamp (front) headlamp

52 53 54 55 56

Instrument illumination lamp Speedometer Tachometer Speedometer illumination lamp

1 2 3 4 5

RH LH RH LH RH

6

LH headlamp

57

7 8 9

RH front loom connector LH front loom connector RH side flasher (RPO)

58 59

Tachometer illumination lamp Battery condition indicator Oil pressure gauge Generator warning lamp

60

Oil pressure warning lamp

|

10

LH side flasher (RPO)

61

Main beam warning lamp

|

11

Engine compartment loom connector

62

Turn signal flasher unit

12 13 14 15 16 17 18

Engine compartment loom connector (RPO) Horn

Fog lamp switch (RPO) Road lamp switch (RPO)

Fog lamp (RPO) Battery (LHD) Battery (RHD)

63 64 65 66 67 68 69

| |

Dual horn (RPO) Road lamp (RPO)

Interior lamp and panel illumination swit Windscreen wiper switch Heater switch Windscreen wiper switch - 2 speed (RPO) Radio (RPO)

19

Ignition coil

70

Radio aerial (RPO)

20

Distributor

71

Accessory connector

21 Zz

Oil pressure switch Temperature sender unit

72 73

Ignition switch Rear wiring loom connector

23 24

Generator Alternator (RPO)

74 75

Emergency flasher unit (RPO) Emergency flasher indicator lamp (RPO)

25

Starter solenoid (automatic transmission)

76

Steering column connector

26

Starter solenoid (manual transmission)

WT)

Steering column connector (RPO)

27

Pre-engaged starter motor - automatic transmission

(RPO)

78

Emergency flasher switch (RPO)

79

Parking brake warning switch (RPO)

80

Transmission selector illumination lamp

81

Accessory illumination connector

28

Inertia starter motor - automatic transmission

29

Inertia starter motor - manual transmission

30

Pre-engaged starter motor - manual transmission

(RPO)

82

31

Regulator

83

(RPO)

32

Fuse block

84

Cigar lighter (RPO) Map-reading lamp (RPO) Clock (RPO)

I

33

RH bulkhead wiring connector

85

Horn switch

i I

34 35

LH bulkhead wiring connector Stop lamp switch

86 87

Direction indicator switch Column dip switch

36 37

Brake fluid low pressure switch (RPO) Windscreen wiper motor

88 89

Headlamp flasher switch Interior light

|

38

Windscreen wiper motor - 2 speed (RPO)

90

Fuel gauge sender unit

| |

39 40 41

Heater motor Heater resistance Reversing lamp switch - manual transmission (RPO) Reversing lamp and park inhibitor switch automatic transmission (RPO) Turn signal warning lamp Instrument voltage regulator

91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98

RPO connectors RH turn signal lamp (rear) LH turn signal lamp (rear) RH stop lamp LH stop lamp RH side lamp (rear) LH side lamp (rear) RH reversing lamp

99

LH reversing lamp

42

|

43 |

44 45

Instrument panel earth

46

Brake fluid low pressure warning lamp (RPO)

100

Licence plate lamp

47 48

RH courtesy switch LH courtesy switch

101 102

Clock Cigar lighter

49

Side/head lamp switch

103

Headlamp flasher relay (RPO)

50 51

Fuel gauge Temperature gauge

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Metric Conversion Tables

Inches

Millimetres

Millimetres

0.001

0.0254

0.002 0.003 0.004 0.005 0.006 0.007 0.008 0.009 0.01 0.02 0.03 0.04 0.05 0.06 0.07

0.0508 0.0762 0.1016 0.1270 0.1524 0.1778 0.2032 0.2286 0.254 0.508 0.762 1.016 1.270 1.524 1.778

; : : : : i i i ; : : d d i ; 2

2.54

5.08 7.62 10.16 12.70 15.24 17.78 20.32 22.96 25.4 50.8 76.2 101.6 127.0 152.4 177.8

|

0.08

2.032

;

203.2

|

0.09

2.286

y

228.6 254.0

Torque Wrench Settings

oc = ¥

ON = SOMO OOAWN

885

Kgm

0.138 0.276 0.414 0.553 0.691 0.829 0.967 1.106 1.244 1.382 2.765 4.147

SSCwomvVMF9M AWN

886

Metric Conversion Table

Distance Kilometres

OMAN WN OOS

Kilometres

1.61 3.22 4.83 6.44 8.05 9.66 1T.27 12.88 14.48 16.09 32.19 48.28 64.37 80.47 96.56 112.65 128.75 144.84 160.93

OOMAONOOAWN

Capacities

Litres

0.57 1.14 1.70 Y pee 2.84 3.41 3.98 4.55 Beit OO — OON HLWDHD 5.58 6.25 6.82

Litres

Pints

1.76 S252 5.28 7.04 8.80 10.56 12.32 14.08 15.841 — ODOODONOOHWDNDH 17.60 19.36 Zien 2

Litres

4.55 0.09 13.64 18.18 22.18 27.28 31.82 36,37 40.91 — WN OAFA OD OMAN 45.46 oO 50.01 54.56 — NO

Litres

Gallons

0.22 0.44 0.66 0.88 1.10 32 1.54 1.76 — ODNONAPWN 1.98 2.20 4.40 6.60

Metric Conversion Table

Tyre Pressures Kg/sq cm

1

14.22 28.50 42.67 56.89 Tete 85.34 99.56 113.79 128.00 — ODNDOAAWN 142.23 284.47 426.70

0.07 0.14 0.21 0.28 0.35 0.42 0.49

2 3 4

5 6 7 8 9 10 20 30

0.56 0.63

0.70 1.41 2.11

Decimals

0.0156 0.0313 0.0625 0.125 0.1875

} |

0.25 0.3125

|

0.375

(

Ib/sq in

Millimetres

0.3969 0.7937 1.5875 3.1750 4.7625

6.3500 7.9375

9.5250

0.4375

11.1125

0.5

12.7000

|

0.5625

14.2875

|

0.625

i |

|

;

15.8750

0.6875 0.75 0.8125

17.4625 19.0500 20.6375

0.9375

23.8125

0.875

22.2250

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Keep the engine compartment of your Capri clean. It helps it keep its value.

Cleanliness is essential for such things as topping up the brake fluid

Cleanliness helps when working on the car, such as changing the oil filter

astrol GRADES Castrol! Gear Oils (continued)

Castrol Greases (continued)

Castrol GTX

Castrol Hypoy Light (80 EP)

Castrol CL

An ultra high performance SAE 20W/50 motor oil which exceeds the latest API MS requirements and manufacturers’ specifications. Castrol GTX with liquid tungstent generously

A very light-bodied powerful extreme pressure gear oil for use in hypoid rear axles in cold climates and in some gearboxes.

chassis lubrication.

Castrol Engine Oils

protects engines at the extreme limits of performance, and combines both good cold starting with oil consumption control. Approved by leading car makers.

Castrol XL 20/50

Contains liquid tungstent; well suited to the majority of conditions giving good oil consumption control in both new and old cars.

Castrolite (Multi-grade) This is the lightest multi-grade oil of the Castrol motor oil family containing liquid tungstent. It is best suited to ensure easy winter starting and for those car models whose manufacturers specify lighter weight oils. Castrol Grand Prix

An SAE 50 engine oil for use where a heavy, full-bodied lubricant is required. Castrol Two-Stroke-Four A premium SAE 30 motor oil possessing good detergency characteristics and corrosion inhibitors, coupled with low ash forming tendency and excellent anti-scuff properties. It is snitable for all two-stroke motor-cycles, and for two-stroke and small four-stroke horticultural machines.

Castrol CR (Multi-grade) A high quality engine oil of the SAE-20W/30 multi-grade type, suited to mixed fleet Operations.

Castro! CR! 10, 20, 30 Primarily for diesel engines, a range of heavily fortified, fully detergent oils, covering the requirements of DEF 2101-D and Supplement1 specifications.

Castrol Hypoy B (90 EP)

Castrol Medium

A light-bodied powerful extreme pressure gear oil that complies with the requirements of the MIL-L-2105B specification, for use in certain gearboxes and rear axles.

A medium consistency calcium based grease.

Castrol Hi-Press (140 EP)

Castrol PH

A white grease for plunger housings and other moving parts on brake mechanisms. /t must NOT be allowed to come into contact with brake fluid when applied to the moving parts of hydraulic brakes.

Castrol ST (90) A light-bodied gear oil with fortifying additives

A graphited grease for the lubrication of

A heavy full-bodied gear oil with fortifying additives.

transmission chains.

Castrol Thio-Hypoy FD (90 EP)

A grease for the under-water gears of outboard motors.

A light-bodied powerful extreme pressure gear oil. This is a special oil for running-in certain

be mixed with any other oil nor with any

grade of Castrol. tLiquid Tungsten is an oil soluble long chain tertiary alky/ primary amine tungstate covered by British Patent No. 882,295.

Castrol Gear Oils

Castrol Hypoy (90 EP) A light-bodied powerful extreme pressure gear oil for use in hypoid rear axles and in some gearboxes.

Castrol Under-Water Grease

hypoid gears.

Anti-Freeze Castrol Anti-Freeze Automatic Transmission Fluids

Castro! TOF

Contains anti-corrosion additives with ethylene glycol. Recommended for the cooling systems of all petrol and diesel engines.

(Automatic Transmission Fluid) Approved for use in all Borg-Warner Automatic Transmission Units. Castrol TOF also meets Ford specification M2C 33F. Castrol TO Dexron® (Automatic Transmission Fluid) Complies with the requirements of Dexron® Automatic Transmission Fluids as laid down by General Motors Corporation.

Speciality Products Castro! Girling Damper Oil Thin The oil for Girling piston type hydraulic dampers.

Castrol Shockol

A light viscosity oil for use in some piston type shock absorbers and in some hydraulic systems employing synthetic rubber seals. It must not be used in braking systems. Castrol Penetrating Oil

fully detergent oils, covering the requirements

Primarily designed and developed for highly stressed racing engines. Castrol ‘R’ should not

Castrol Graphited Grease

Castro! D (140)

Castro! CRB 20, 30

Castro! R 40

Castrol Heavy

A heavy consistency calcium based grease.

A heavy-bodied extreme pressure gear oil for use in spiral bevel rear axles and some gearboxes.

Primarily for diesel engines, heavily fortified, of MIL-L-2104B.

A semi-fluid calcium based grease, which is both waterproof and adhesive, intended for

Castrol Greases

A leaf spring lubricant possessing a high degree of penetration and providing protection against rust.

Castro! LM

A multi-purpose high melting point lithium based grease approved for most automotive applications including chassis and wheel bearing lubrication.

Castrol Solvent Flushing Oil A light-bodied solvent oil, designed for flushing engines, rear axles, gearboxes and gearcasings.

Castrol MS3

Castrollo

A high melting point lithium based grease containing molybdenum disulphide.

An upper cylinder lubricant for use in the Proportion of 1 fluid ounce to two gallons of fuel.

Castro! BNS A high melting point grease for use where recommended by certain manufacturers in front wheel bearings when disc brakes are fitted.

Everyman Oil

A light-bodied machine oil containing anticorrosion additives for both general use and cycle lubrication.

Index A Air cleaners 33 Antifreeze solution 33 Automatic gearbox 15

Cooling system loss of water 76, 79 maintenance 33 radiator blockage 78

D Battery faults 81 maintenance 19 topping-up 19 Bodywork repairs 38 cleaning 32, 35 Brakes adjustment 30, 45 bleeding 33 data 12 faults 70, 84 Buying 49 Capacity, engine 9 Carburettor adjusting 72 data 10

faults 72, 66 maintenance 72, 66

Carpets, cleaning 35 Chromium plating, polishing 37 Clutch faults 83, 70, 69 maintenance 28 operating lever clearance 28 slipping 83 Compression ratio 9 Condenser renewal 64 Contact breaker cleaning points 25 gap setting 25 Controls 7 Cooling system data 10 draining 33, 78 faults 77

filling 33 flushing 78

Distributor lubrication 25 maintenance 25 Dynamo

faults 99 lubrication 29

Electrical system data 12 faults 68 Engine data 9 faults 62, 74, 80 lack of power 74 maintenance 23 noises 70 overheating 76

F Fan belt - adjustment 29 Facia 7 Fault finding 61 Flashing direction indicators 20 Front suspension data 11 Front wheel alignment 32 balance 32 bearings 32, 33 Fuel system faults 66 fuel leaks 27 fuel pump servicing 27 fuel system data 10 Fuses 57

Index en

G Gearbox 28, 90 General dimensions 13

H Handbrake 36, 45 Headlamps faults 20 renewal 20 Heater 8 High tension cables 74 History of marque/models 6 Hubs, front wheels 32, 33

| Ignition faults 64, 74 maintenance 25 wiring diagram 63 Instrument panel 7 Introduction 5 L Lubrication capacities 13 chart 22 door locks 36 pedals 36

M Maintenance material 18 Model identification 6

N Number plate bulbs 20

O Oil changing 23 Oil consumption, excessive 76 Oil filter element, changing 23 P

Road tests 47 Rust prevention 36

Selling 52 Sidelamps 20 Spares 16 Spark plugs, maintenance 34 Starter motor faults 62 Starting, causes of difficulty 62 Steam cleaning 33, 35 Steering, curing stiff 82 data 11 wander 82 wobble and vibration 32 Steering gear checking for wear 45 faults 82 maintenance 32 Steering wheel, excessive play 45 Stop/tail lamps 20 Suspension data 11 faults 82 maintenance 32

Thermostat 77 Tools 17

Touring pack 16 Tyre/s data 11 faults 86, 48 inspection 19 pressures 11

U Upholstery 35

V Valves, rocker clearance adjustment 24

Performance, data 14

Polishing the car 37

Ww

R Radiator flushing 78 Rear axle 28 Rear lights 29

Washing the car 37 Water pump 78 Weekly attention 19 Windscreen washer 20 Wiring diagrams 54

Other titles in the Haynes Owners Handbook/Maintenance Manuals Series

BLMC Mini (All models)

BLMC 1100/1300 (All models) Ford Anglia 105E/123E Ford Corsair 1500 Ford Cortina Mk 1 Ford Cortina Mk 2 Ford Escort Hillman Imp (All models) Morris Marina Morris Minor 1000 (AII models) Triumph Herald (All models) Vauxhall Victor FB Vauxhall Viva HA Vauxhall Viva HB Vauxhall Viva HC

More titles are in preparation

A full range of Owner’s Workshop Manuals also is available from the publishers

Although every care has been taken to ensure the correctness of data used, it must be borne in mind that alterations and design changes can occur within the production run of a model without specific reclassification. No liability can be accepted for damage, loss or injury caused by errors or omissions in the information given.

ey itets qt)4404!

All. Ford Capri 1300/1600 models from 1969 This Maintenance Manual/Owners Handbook is for all Ford Capri 1300/1600 models from 1969 owners who want to reduce their motoring costs, enjoy reliable trouble free motoring, extend their car’s life and maintain its resale value. Written specifically for the Capri 1300/1600 owner the contents show you how to maintain and service all models correctly to help give safer, more enjoyable motoring. A further advan tage is that by doing your own maintenance you will dramatically reduce your motoring bills and not waste time while your car is in the garage. Minor repairs are carefully explained - even experienced amateurs can follow everything clearly. Extensive fault find 4 > charts pinpoint troubles and will help get you moving if you cannot start breakdown. There is also a complete section showing how to check < wo prepare your Capri for the M.O.T. test. Specifications, toad test di # production history, model identification and ‘how to buy ‘a good u:, Capri’ are also included. } times

over.

Price 75p

:

900550

63 »