Haynes Ford Cortina MK IV 1300 Owners Workshop Manual 0856964093, 9780856964091

Citation preview

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CORTTINA wav 1976 to 1977 All models 5 1297cc

». . , .¢ 0rd Cortina ~~ MkIV 1800 Owners |5 : a:

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Worksho Manual

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Zest

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5, Sf :

by J H Haynes =

Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers

SOA

:

and Peter G Strasman

a sees:

:

Models covered: Cortina 1300 and 1300L Saloon, 1297 cc

;

Does not cover 1600 and 2000 models

ES

ISBN 0 85696 409 3

re ©

Haynes Publishing Group 1978

All rights any form recording in writing

Von

reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission from the copyright holder.

Printed in England

|tiots1 “ITC

HAYNES PUBLISHING GROUP SPARKFORD YEOVIL SOMERSET

ENGLAND

distributed in the USA by

HAYNES PUBLICATIONS 861 LAWRENCE DRIVE NEWBURY PARK CALIFORNIA 91320 USA

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i

INC

U T 30128 0076165

Acknowledgements Special thanks are due to the Ford Motor Company for the supply of technical information and certain illustrations. Castrol Limited provided lubrication data, and the Champion Sparking Plug Company supplied the illustrations showing the various spark plug conditions. The bodywork repair photographs used in this manual were provided by Lloyds Industries Limited who supply ‘Turtle Wax’, ‘Dupli-color Holts’, and other Holts range products. The section of Chapter 10 dealing with the suppression of radio

interference, was originated by Mr. |. P. Davey, and was first published in Motor magazine. Lastly, thanks are due to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual, particularly, Brian Horsfall and Les Brazier who carried out the mechanical work and took the photographs respectively, Stanley Randolph who planned the layout of each page and Pete Ward the editor.

About this manual Its aims The aim of this Manual is to help you get the best value from your car. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage),

provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the Manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs, it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage, and going there twice to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs the

garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads. The Manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Then the tasks are described and photographed in a step-by-step sequence so that even a novice can do the work.

/ts arrangement The Manual is divided into twelve Chapters, each covering a logical sub-division of the vehicle. The Chapters are each divided into

Sections, numbered with single figures, eg 5; and the Sections into paragraphs (or sub-sections), with decimal numbers following on from the Section they are in, eg 5.1, 5.2, 5.3 etc. It is freely illustrated, especially in those parts where there is a detailed sequence of operations to be carried out. There are two forms of illustration: figures and photographs. The figures are numbered in sequence with decimal numbers, according to their position in the Chapter: eg Fig 6.4 is the 4th drawing/illustration in Chapter 6. Photographs are numbered (either individually or in related groups) the same as the Section or sub-section of the text where the operation they show is described. There is an alphabetical index at the back of the manual as well as a contents list at the front.

References to the ‘left’ or ‘right’ of the vehicle are in the sense ofa person in the driver's seat facing forwards. Whilst every care is taken to ensure that the information in this Manual is correct no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

Chapter

Page

> ° Be5 ° = ® a a © 3 ® Sy oown

Nh

About this manual

2

Introduction to the Cortina Mk IV

4

Buying spare parts and vehicle identification numbers

6

Routine maintenance

7

Jacking and towing

9

Tools and working facilities

at

Chapter 1

Engine

13

Chapter 2

Cooling system

40

Chapter 3

Fuel and exhaust systems

45

Chapter4

Ignition system

53

Chapter 5

Clutch

61

Chapter6

Gearbox

66

Chapter7 Propeller shaft

79

Chapter8 Rear axle

81

Chapter9

Braking system

Chapter 10

Electrical system

and steering 11 Suspension Chapter

Chapter 12

Bodywork and fittings

87

100 130

148

Metric conversion tables

164

Index

166

Introduction to the Cortina Mk IV This model transmission

is available only.

in 2- or 4-door

Although

it

is

saloon

equipped

form

with manual

with

all

essential

accessories, it must be regarded as the basic model in the range. The car will appea! to budget-conscious motorists who cannot afford a more luxurious vehicle and to cost-appreciative fleet users. For the twin advantages of fuel economy with Cortina size and road

holding, some limitation of performance must be expected on this model with such a small power unit which is now a somewhat dated design.

The car is just as ruggedly constructed and easy to service as the other models in the Cortina range.

CUlIOD HIN Al OOEL JOOP-OM} UOO/ES

Buying spare parts and vehicle identification numbers Buying spare parts

components which wear out relatively quickly (eg clutch components,

Spare parts are available from many sources, for example: Ford garages, other garages and accessory shops, and motor factors. Our advice regarding spare part sources is as follows: Officially appointed Ford garages — This is the best source for parts which are peculiar to your car and are otherwise not generally available (eg complete cylinder heads, internal gearbox components, badges, interior trim etc). It is also the only place at which you should

pistons, valves, exhaust system, brake cylinders/pipes/hoses/ seals/shoes and pads etc). Motor factors will often provide new or

buy parts if your car is still under warranty — non-Ford

reconditioned components on a part exchange basis — this can save a considerable amount of money.

components

may invalidate the warranty. To be sure of obtaining the correct parts it will always be necessary to give the storeman your car’s vehicle identification number, and if possible, to take the ‘old’ part along for positive identification. Remember that many parts are available on a factory exchange scheme — any parts returned should always be clean! It obviously makes good sense to go straight to the specialists on your car for this type of part for they are best equipped to supply you. Other garages and accessory shops — These are often very good places to buy materials and components needed for the maintenance of your car (eg oil filters, spark plugs, bulbs, fan belts, oils and greases, touch-up paint, filler paste, etc). They also sell general accessories, usually have convenient opening hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home. Motor factors — Good factors will stock all the more important

ome el

maVelesj(0\A)

Zul.. Gesamtgew.

@ Gross Vehicle Wat

sta] Drive

Motor Engine

Getr. Trans

Vehicle identification numbers Although many individual parts, and in some cases subassemblies, fit a number of different models it is Cangerous to assume that just because they look the same, they are the same. Differences are not always easy to detect except by serial numbers. Make sure therefore, that the appropriate identity number for the model or subassembly is known and quoted when a spare part is ordered. The vehicle identification plate is mounted on the right-hand side of the front body panel and may be seen once the bonnet is open. Record the numbers from your car on the blank spaces of the accompanying illustration. You can then take the manual with you when buying parts; also the exploded drawings throughout the manual can be used to point out and identify the components required. NOTE: /n most instances, parts designed for earlier Ford Cortina cars will not fit Mark IV models although in many cases the components appear similar.

Aree

Vehicle No.

Zul. Achslast Vorn

Zul. Achslast

Perm. Axle Ld. Front

Perm. Axle Ld. Rear

Achse_ Axle

Farbe Colour

Polst Agia

BS. AU48: Vehicle identification plate and location

inca

Bremsen Brakes

1965

Routine maintenance Maintenance is essential for ensuring safety and desirable for the purpose of getting the best in terms of performance and economy from your car. Over the years the need for periodic lubrication — oiling, greasing, and so on — has been drastically reduced if not totally eliminated. This has unfortunately tended to lead some owners to think that because no such action is required, components either no longer exist, or will last for ever. This is a serious delusion. It follows therefore that the largest initial element of maintenance is visual examination. This may lead to repairs or renewals. ee

Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly Check Check Check Check Check Check

tyre pressures and inflate if necessary. and top-up the engine oil. and top-up battery electrolyte level. and top-up windscreen washer fluid level. and top-up coolant level. operation of all lights.

e ~ Py

oe A | dy

H 645

Checking windscreen washer fluid level

Checking coolant level

8

Routine maintenance

ne ene see

Every 6000 miles (10 000 km)

Change engine oil and renew filter.

Clean fuel pump filter. Check carburettor adjustment.

Check Check Check Move

and top-up and adjust and adjust position of

eee

rear axle oil level. clutch free movement. valve clearances. roadwheels (balanced off car) to even out tread

wear. ee Clean crankcase ventilation valve.

Check drivebelt tension; renew if frayed.

Clean and adjust spark plugs.

Check, adjust or renew distributor contact breaker points.

Every 12 000 miles (19 000 km)

Check for wear in all steering joints and condition of flexible dust excluders.

Check ignition timing.

Inspect brake fluid lines and hoses for leaks, damage or deteriora-

Check front wheel alignment.

tion. Inspect front disc pads and rear brake shoe linings for wear. Check and top-up brake fluid reservoir. Lubricate door hinges and controls. Check and top-up gearbox oil level.

Every 18 000 miles (29 000 km) Renew air cleaner element.

Rear axle oil level/ filler plug (arrowed)

‘ite Adjusting nut —~ =e Sat,

Lock nut

Checking distributor contact breaker points gap

Removing front hub outer bearing

ee

Routine maintenance Es

er Every 24 000 miles (38 060 km) or at two yearly intervals a Drain cooling system and refill with ‘long-life’ type antifreeze mixture. If other than ‘long-life’ mixture is used, cooling system should be drained, flushed.and refilled every autumn. Clean, re-lubricate and

adjust front hub bearings.

9

Once a year or more often if the time can be spared

Cleaning same

Examination

of components

applies

body

to the

of the

requires that they are cleaned. The car, inside

and

out, in order that

deterioration due to rust or unknown damage may be detected. Certain

parts of the body frame, if rusted badly, can result in the vehicle being declared unsafe and it will not pass the annual test for roadworthiness.

a re ee ee Every 36 000 miles (58 000 km)

Ee

edee

Bleed hydraulic system, renew all system seals and refill with clean, fresh fluid. Remove plugs and grease front suspension upper swivel balljoints. Renew servo unit filter.

Exhaust system An exhaust system must be leakproof, and the noise level below a certain minimum. Excessive leaks may cause carbon monoxide fumes

to enter the passenger

compartment.

Excessive

noise constitutes a

public nuisance. Both these faults may cause the vehicle to be kept off

the road. apparent.

Repair or replace

defective

sections

when

symptoms

are

Jacking and Towing Jacking points

crossmember,

To change a wheel in an emergency, use the jack supplied with the vehicle. Ensure that the roadwheel nuts are released before jacking up the car; make sure that the arm of the jack is fully engaged with the body bracket and that the base of the jack is standing on a firm level surface. The jack supplied with the vehicle is not suitable for use when raising the vehicle for maintenance or repair operations. For this work, use a trolley, hydraulic or screw-type jack located under the front

illustrated. Always supplement the jack with before crawling beneath the car.

bodyframe

sidemembers

or

rear

axle

casing,

axle-stands

Towing points If your vehicle is being towed, make sure that the tow rope is attached to a towing eye or the front crossmember. If you are towing another vehicle, attach the tow rope to the lower suspension arm bracket at the axle tube.

ae thin —

445mm| :

10mm-—

(20-1in)

Vehicle jacking positions (for repair operations)

Tow-rope attached to front of car

as

or blocks

Tow-rope attached to rear of car

10

Recommended

lubricants

Component

Castrol Product

ME

MICIING eis eR acera » ybiele,

3.9 Withdrawing speedometer drive gear

3.10

Removing

extension

housing

blanking

3.11 Removing gearshift remote control rod

plug extension (photo). 10 Knock out the large plug using a soft drift and a hammer at the rear of the remote control extension tube casing (photo). 11 The gearshift remote control rod can now be removed rearwards. It may be necessary to tap it gently with a soft drift and hammer to get

it started (photo). 12 The selector forks and the selector lever can then be lifted out from the gearbox (photo). 13 Tap the extension housing slightly rearward and then rotate it until the end of the layshaft fits into the cutaway in the extension housing flange. Drive the layshaft rearward from inside the bellhousing with a metal drift (photo). 14 The layshaft can then be pulled out from the rear of the gearbox casing (photo). 15 The extension complete with mainshaft can now bepulled away and out from the back of the gearbox (photo). 16 Inside the bellhousing unscrew the four bolts and spring washers which hold the input shaft bearing retainer in place and remove the

retainer (photo).

17 The input shaft complete with bearing can then be withdrawn from the front of the gearbox casing through the bellhousing (photo). 18 With the aid of a thin metal drift, tap out the pivot pin from the lug

on the right-hand side of the gearbox and remove the interlock plate (photo). 19 Remove the laygear through the mainshaft bearing hole in the rear of the gearbox (photo). 20 Screw a suitably sized bolt (M8 x 60) into the metric thread cut in

the centre of the reverse gear idler shaft and then with one of the jaws of a large spanner resting under the head of the bolt lever the reverse

idler shaft out of the gearbox. Lift out the reverse idler gear (photo). 4

Gearbox — examination and renovation

1. Clean all dismantled components in paraffin and examine them for wear, distortion, cracks or chipped teeth. 2 Examine the gearwheels for excessive wear and chipping of the teeth. Renew them as necessary. If the laygear endfloat is above the

Chapter 6 Gearbox

70

sina Ml

3.15 Withdrawing housing assembly

mainshaft/extension

3.16 Removing bolts

input shaft bearing

oe

re

3.18 Driving out interlock plate pivot pin

3.19 Withdrawing laygear

permitted tolerance, the thrust washers must be renewed. New thrust washers will almost certainly be required on any car that has completed more than 30 000 miles (48 000 km). 3 Examine the layshaft for signs of wear where the laygear needle roller bearings bear. If a small ridge can be felt at either end of the shaft, it will be necessary to renew it. 4 The four synchroniser rings are bound to be badly worn and it is a false economy not to renew them. New rings will improve the smoothness and speed of the gearchange considerably. 5 The needle roller bearing and cage located between the nose of

the mainshaft and the annulus in the rear of the input shaft is also liable to wear and should be renewed as a matter of course. Check that the nose of the mainshaft has not worn too. 6 Examine the condition of the two ball bearing assemblies, one on the input shaft and one on the mainshaft. Check them for noisy operation, looseness between the inner and outer races, and for general wear. Normally they should be renewed on a gearbox that is being rebuilt.

retainer

3.20 Levering reverse idler shaft from gearbox

7 If either of the synchroniser units is worn, it will be necessary to buy a complete assembly as the parts are not sold individually. 8 Examine the ends of the selector forks where they rub against the channels in the periphery of the synchroniser units. If possible compare

the selector forks with new units to help determine the wear that has occurred. Renew them if worn. 9 If the bush in the extension is badly worn it is best to take the extension to your local Ford garage to have the bearing pulled out and a new one fitted. 10 The rear oil seal should be renewed as a matter of course. Drive out the old seal with the aid of a drift or broad screwdriver. 11 The seal is surrounded by a metal ring and comes out fairly easily. 12 With a piece of wood to spread the load evenly, carefully tap a new seal into place, ensuring that it enters its bore in the extension squarely. 13 It is unlikely that any of the mainshaft bearing surfaces will be worn, but if there is any sign of scoring, picking-up, or flats on the shaft, then it must be renewed.

in

eee

Chapter 6 Gearbox

oe

ee Input shaft — dismantling and reassembly a 1 The only reasons for dismantling the input shaft are to fit a new ball bearing assembly or, if the input shaft is being renewed and the old bearing is in excellent condition, then to fit a new shaft to an old bearing. 2 With a pair of expanding circlip pliers, remove the circlip from the input shaft (photo). 3 With a soft-headed hammer, gently tap the bearing forward and then remove it from the shaft (photo). 4 When fitting the new bearing, ensure that the groove cut in the 5

outer periphery faces away from the gear. If the bearing is fitted the wrong way round, it will not be possible to fit the large circlip which

retains the bearing against the gearbox casing. 5 Using the jaws of a vice as a support behind the bearing, tap the bearing squarely into place by hitting the rear of the input shaft with a plastic or hide faced hammer (photo). ~ 6 Fit the widest circlip that will fit in the groove in the input shaft. Circlips are available in a number of thicknesses and when overhauling a gearbox it is a good plan to purchase a selection on the understanding that those not required can be credited after the job is complete.

5

71

With a soft-faced hammer, tap the rear end of the mainshaft until

the large bearing (13) is clear of the housing (photo). 6

The mainshaft can now be completely removed from the extension

housing. 7 To remove the speedometer drive gear (14) and the bearing (13) can be very difficult as they are both a very tight interference fit on the mainshaft. Ideally they should be removed in a hydraulic press. They can be removed with the aid of long tyre levers or similar, but only if the bearing is going to be renewed as the levers have to rest against

the side face of the bearing and this is almost sure to damage

it

(photo). 8

The speedometer drive may be obstinate to remove right up to the

last £ inch (1.58 mm) of its shoulder. To enable the levers to continue leverage when the gap between the drive and the bearing becomes very large, fit a spanner adjacent to the bearing over the mainshaft to take up some of the gap. 9 With a pair of circlip pliers, remove the circlip which holds the main bearing in place on the mainshaft (photo). 10 The bearing must then be removed from the shaft in exactly the same way as the speedometer drive. Take the greatest care if using tyre levers or similar tools not to chip any of the teeth on 1st gear (photo). 11 The spacer washer or oil slinger (12), 1st gear (11), and the synchroniser ring (2) can now be slid from the mainshaft (photo).

6

12 Remove the circlip which holds the 1st and 2nd gear synchroniser assembly (10) in place (photo).

Mainshaft — dismantling and reassembly

1. Before the mainshaft can be fully dismantled, it has to be removed from the extension housing. Mount the extension housing between two flat pieces of wood in the jaws of a vice.

2

With a pair of circlip pliers, remove the circlip (1) (Fig. 6.8) which

holds the 3rd and 4th gear synchroniser hub assembly in place (photo). 3 Slide the synchroniser assembly (3) complete with its sleeve forwards off the front of the mainshaft and follow it with the 3rd gear

(5). To get the gear started may call for a little prising between the gear and the raised shoulder on the mainshaft (photo). 4 With a pair of thin nosed pliers, squeeze together the ends of the circlip in the extension housing and remove the circlip from its groove (photo).

13 Once again with the aid of screwdrivers or tyre levers, carefully lever the synchroniser assembly and second gear off the mainshaft.

The mainshaft is now completely dismantled (photo). 14 If a new synchroniser assembly is being fitted it is necessary to take it to pieces first to clean off all the preservative. These instructions are also applicable in instances where the outer sleeve has come off the hub accidentally during dismantling. 15 To dismantle an assembly for cleaning slide the synchroniser sleeve off the splined hub and clean all the preservative from the blocker bars, spring rings, the hub itself and the sleeve. 16 Oil the components lightly and then fit the sleeve in the hub. Note the three slots in the hub and fit a blocker bar in each. 17 Fit the two spring rings, one on the front and one on the rear face

EY Tee a

ae

ca

6.2 Extracting 3rd/4th synchro hub circlip

6.3 Removing

gear

3rd/4th synchro unit and 3rd

6.4 Extracting mainshaft bearing outer circlip

72

18

192019 21

22

Fig. 6.8 Internal components of Type A gearbox (Sec 6) Circlip Synchro sleeve

3rd/4th synchro unit Synchro sleeve

3rd gear Input shaft bearing Input shaft Mainshaft 2nd gear WANDAAAWNH™

10

1st/2nd synchro unit

171 1st gear 12 Oil slinger

13 14 15 16 ine. 18 19 20 21 22 23

Mainshaft bearing Speedometer drive gear Reverse idler gear Spacer sleeve Idler shaft Laygear assembly Spacer shim

Needle rollers (21 at each end) Thrust washer Layshaft Needle roller bearing

Chapter 6 Gearbox

6.7 Levering speedometer bearing from mainshaft

drive

73

gear

and _ 6.9 Extracting mainshaft bearing inner circlip

6.11 Removing 1st gear and synchro ring from mainshaft

6.12 Extracting 1st/2nd synchro circlip

4

6.13 Levering 1st/2nd synchro unit and 2nd gear from.mainshaft of the inside of the synchroniser sleeve under the blocker bars with the tagged end of each spring locating the U-section of the same bar. One spring must be put on anti-clockwise and one clockwise. When either side of the assembly is then viewed, the directional pattern of the two springs will appear to coincide.

18 Reassembly of the mainshaft commences by replacing 2nd gear (9) and a new synchroniser ring (2) on the longer portion of the mainshaft. Ensure that the gearwheel teeth lie adjacent to the shoulder on the mainshaft (photo). 19 Then slide the 1st and 2nd gear synchroniser sleeve and hub (10) into place, with the straight cut gear teeth adjacent to 2nd gear, Follow on with the synchroniser ring (2) (photo).

20

Make certain that the cut-outs in the synchroniser rings (arrowed

in photo) fit over the blocker bars in the synchroniser hub and that any

marks on the mainshaft and hub are in line (photo). 21

Then replace the circlip which holds the synchroniser hub in place

on the mainshaft. Circlips are available in a variety of thicknesses. It is essential that the thickest circlip that will fit the groove is used so that

all endfloat is eliminated (Refer to paragraph 6, Section 5) (photo).

Fig. 6.10 Fitting diagram for synchro unit spring clips (Sec 6)

eres ae pea

ete

iC

™

6.18 Fitting mainshaft

:

2nd

ae

=

gear

and

F

synchro

4

ring to

6.24 Fitting mainshaft bearing inner circlip

a

aad

A

saa

Y’

ea i

6.19 Fitting 1st/2nd synchro baulk ring

6.26 Installing mainshaft

sealing ring

speedometer

drive

gear

to

6.28 Installing mainshaft assembly into extension housing

Chapter 6 Gearbox

6.35 Fitting needle roller bearing to front end of mainshaft

6.34 Fitting 3rd/4th synchro circlip

22 Refit 1st gear (11), cone side facing towards the 1st and 2nd gear synchroniser hub and follow with the spacer washer (oil slinger) (12) so

that

the

larger

diameter

on

the

spacer

lies

adjacent

to the

gearwheel (photo). 23 To drive on the mainshaft bearing (13) use a length of suitable diameter tubing so that the end of the tube just fits over the mainshaft and bears against the /nner race of the bearing. Several heavy blows to

the top end of the tube will drive the bearing fully home (photo). 24 Select the thickest circlip which will fit in the groove adjacent to the bearing and with the aid of a pair of circlip pliers, fit the circlip in place (photo). 25 Then place the large circlip loosely behind the bearing. This large circlip holds the bearing in place in the extension housing. This is a selective circlip and once again it is essential that the largest circlip that will fit the groove in the housing is used. Circlips are available ina variety of thicknesses

and

can

75

be fitted to, or removed

from, the

29 With a pair of thin nosed pliers, fit the large circlip into the groove in the extension housing, so securing the mainshaft ball bearing

(photo). 30

Fit a new

rubber seal in the groove

round the gearchange shaft

tube in the front of the extension (photo). 31

Then fit a new gasket in place on the extension housing front face

(photo). 32 Slide 3rd gear (5) into place on the mainshaft so the helically cut teeth face 2nd gear and then fit a new synchroniser ring (photo). 33 Then fit the 3rd and 4th gear synchroniser assembly (3) in place, ensuring that the cut-outs on the outside periphery of the synchroniser ring line up with the blocker bars in the synchroniser hub and sleeve

(photo). 34 Fit the thickest circlip that will fit the groove in front of the synchroniser assembly (photo). 35 Then slide the caged roller bearing (23) into place on the nose of

mainshaft while it is in position in the extension housing. 26 Next fit the speedometer drive to the mainshaft using the same method described in paragraph 23 (photo). 27 Ensure that a new oil seal has been fitted to the rear of the extension housing. 28 Heat the front end of the extension in boiling water and then fit the

the mainshaft. The mainshaft is now fully assembled (photo).

mainshaft,

to the gearbox casing so that the bottom end of the lever seats in the groove on the forward end of the gearwheel. 2 Slide a thrust washer into either end of the laygear so that they

tapping

the

front

end

of the shaft with

a soft-headed

hammer until the bearing is fully home in its housing in the extension

(photo).

7

Gearbox — reassembly

1

Fit the reverse gear relay lever, the reverse idler gear and the shaft

76 oe abut

the

Chapter 6 Gearbox

ee

ee internal

machined

shoulders.

Smear

thick grease

in the

laygear orifice and fit the needle rollers one at a time until all are in place at each end. Then fit a spacer shim to each end of the laygear

orifice (photo). 3 Smear the front end of the laygear with grease and fit the thrust washer. 4 Then fit a spacer shim and a thrust washer to the other end of the laygear in similar fashion. 5 Insert the laygear (large gearwheel first) into the gearbox through

the large hole in the rear of the gearbox casing (photo). 6 Carefully position the laygear so it lies in the bottom of the gearbox with the tabs on the thrust washers engaged in the cut-aways. 7 Then fit the input shaft with the circlip already in place round the outside periphery of the bearing. Tap the bearing in until it is fully home and the circlip is up tight against the front face of the casing. 8 Then fit the input shaft bearing retainer and ensure that the oil hole in the nose of the retainer faces downward to the bottom of the bellhousing (photo). 9 Securely tighten up the four nuts and bolts which hold the input shaft bearing retainer in place (photo). 10 Ensure that the remaining synchroniser ring is in place over the nose of the input shaft gearwheel and the cut-outs align with the blocker bars, and then carefully slide the mainshaft into the rear of the gearbox (photo).

11

Turn the extension so that the cut-out in the extension flange lines

up with the hole in the layshaft. Bring the laygear into mesh with the mainshaft by carefully turning the gearbox upside down so that the laygear is at the top. Line up the laygear and thrust washer at the rear of the gearbox using a rod or screwdriver. Take the greatest care not to displace any of the rollers. Repeat at the front of the gearbox (photo). 12 Then fit the layshaft faend first) into the gearbox casing from the rear (photo). \ 13 Ensure that the lug on the rear of the layshaft is horizontal and then with the aid of a soft drift or hammer tap the layshaft fully home. Ensure that the lug protrudes so that it can locate in the recess in the extension housing (photo). 14 Pull back the extension housing half an inch, rotate it until the bolt holes are in the correct position and then push the extension housing

Oe

eee

fully home. Refit and tighten down to the specified torque, the bolts and spring washers which hold the extension housing to the end of the

gearbox (photo). 15 Turn the gearbox the right way up and fit the interlock plate in

position between the two lugs on the inside of the gearbox (photo). 16 Tap the pivot pin which holds the interlock plate into place (photo). 17 Fit the Ist and 2nd gear selector fork to the gearbox so that the prongs of the fork locate in the groove in the 1st and 2nd gear synchroniser sleeve (photo). 18 Then fit the 3rd and 4th gear selector fork so that the prongs of the fork locate in the groove of the 3rd and 4th gear synchroniser sleeve (photo). 19 The arm of the 3rd and 4th gear selector fork (arrowed) should lie on top of the 1st and 2nd gear arm (photo). 20 Fit the gear selector arm in the hole in the interlock plate so that the selector arm pin (arrowed) rests in the V-shaped cutaway of the interlock plate (photo). 21 Slide the gearchange shaft arm selector rod into the gearbox from the rear of the extension housing (photo). 22 First slide the shaft through the hole in the 1st and 2nd gear selector fork (photo). 23 Drop the interlock plate and selector arm into‘place and then slide the shaft through the holes in the gear selector arm and the 3rd and 4th gear selector forks. Ensure that the cut-outs on the forward end of the shaft face toward the left-hand side of the gearbox. 24 When the hole in the gearchange shaft lines up with the small hole in the gear selector arm, drive in the pin which holds the arm to the shaft (photo). 25 Refit the detent plunger and screw it in tightly (photo). 26 Then refit the plug and screw it in tightly (photo). 27 Refit the gearlever to the extension housing. The slot in the base of the lever goes over the gearchange shaft (photo). 28 Screw down the domed nut and lock in place by turning down some of the tabs on the tab washer on the base of the dome (photo). 29 Compress the conical spring and slide the circlip down the gearlever until it rests in its groove and locates the spring securely. Check that all the gears are working correctly by turning the input shaft and engaging each gear in turn with the gearlever (photo).

ad

7.5 Installing laygear and thrust washers

Es 7.9 Tightening bolts

z input shaft

bearing

retainer

7.10 Installing mainshaft/extension housing to

gearcase

7.11 Aligning laygear and thrust washer

7.20 Gear selector arm pin (arrowed) correc located

7.21 Installing gearshift remote control rod

7.22 Fitting selector rod through fork

1st/2nd shift

7.24 Fitting gearshift arm roll pin

Chapter 6 Gearbox

78

7.25 Fitting detent plunger and spring

7.26 Fitting detent plunger plug

7.28 Fitting gear lever domed nut

7.29 Fitting gear lever circlip

7.27 Engaging housing

7.32

lever

in extension

housing

rear blanking

gearshift

Fitting extension

plug 30 Fit a new gasket to the gearbox cover, refit the cover and tighten down the eight bolts and spring washers which hold it in place.

develop. 32 Smear the edges of the extension housing end plug with jointing

31

compound

Refit the speedometer drive pinion and the retainer cup. Smear the

edges of the cup with jointing compound to ensure that no oil leaks

and

fit the

plug

to the

rear

of the

extension

Reassembly of the gearbox is now complete.

8 Fault diagnosis - gearbox

Symptom

Reason/s

Weak or ineffective synchromesh General wear

Jumps out of gear General wear or damage

Excessive noise Lack of maintenance

Baulk ring synchromesh dogs worn, or damaged

Broken gearchange fork rod spring Gearbox coupling dogs badly worn Selector fork rod groove badly worn Selector fork rod securing screw and locknut loose

Incorrect grade of oil in gearbox or oil level too low Bush or needle roller bearings worn or damaged Gearteeth excessively worn or damaged Laygear thrust washers worn allowing excessive endplay

Excessive difficulty in engaging gear Clutch not fully disengaging

Clutch pedal adjustment incorrect

(photo).

Chapter 7 Propeller shaft Contents ae

diagnosis 2 propeller shaft

eneral description

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Propeller shaft - removal and refitting

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1

Propeller shaft universal joints - examination

‘

2

3

Specifications

Type

Single-section, tubular with universal joints and splined sliding section

Length

50.75 in (1289 mm)

Torque wrench settings Ibf ft Rear flange

1

Nm

bolts

General description

1 The propeller shaft is a tubular, single-section type, having a universal joint at the rear end and a universal joint and splined sliding sleeve at the front. 2 No maintenance is required, and in the event of wear taking place in the universal joints, the propeller shaft must be renewed complete as the stacked-type bearing cups cannot be removed.

2

Propeller shaft — removal and refitting

1

Jack up the rear of the car, or position the car over a pit or ona

ramp. 2 (lf the rear of the car is jacked up, supplement the jack with axlestands so that danger is minimised, should the jack collapse. 3 __ If the rear wheels are off the ground, place the car in gear or put the handbrake on to ensure that the propeller shaft does not turn when an attempt is made to loosen the four nuts securing the propeller shaft to the rear axle. 4 The propeller shaft is carefully balanced to fine limits and it is important that it is replaced in exactly the same position it was in prior to its removal. Scratch a mark on the propeller shaft and rear axle flange ends to ensure accurate mating when the time comes for reassembly. 5 Unscrew and remove the four self-locking nuts, bolts and securing washers which hold the flange to the rear axle pinion coupling. 6 Slightly push the shaft forward to separate the two flanges, then lower the end of the shaft and pull it rearward to disengage the gearbox mainshaft splines. 7 Place a large can or tray under the rear of the gearbox extension to catch any oil which is likely to leak through the spline lubricating holes, when the propeller shaft is removed. 8 Refitting of the propeller shaft is a reversal of the above procedure. Ensure that the mating marks scratched on the propeller shaft and rear axle flange line up. 9 Finally tighten the flange bolts to the specified torque wrench setting.

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3.

Propeller shaft universal joints — examination

1

Wear in the needle roller bearings is characterised by vibration in

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Fig. 7.1 Propeller shaft showing two universal joints and splined sliding sleeve

Fig. 7.2 Propeller shaft attachment to rear axle pinion flange the transmission, ‘clonks’ on taking up the drive, and in extreme cases of lack of lubrication, metallic squeaking, and ultimately grating and

shrieking sounds as the bearings break up. 2 It is easy to check if the needle roller bearings are worn with the propeller shaft in position, by trying to turn the shaft with one hand, the other hand holding the rear axle flange when the rear universal is

80

Chapter 7 Propeller shaft

being checked, and the front half coupling when the front universal is being checked. Any movement between the propeller shaft and the front and the rear half couplings is indicative of considerable wear. 3 Examine the propeller shaft splines for wear. If worn, it will be

4 If the propeller shaft splines are worn, check also the condition of the splines on the end of the gearbox output shaft. If these are also worn, a new mainshaft will be required. 5 Worn universal joints will necessitate a new shaft complete as the

necessary to purchase a new propeller shaft.

old joints cannot be reconditioned.

4 Fault diagnosis - propeller shaft

Symptom Vibration when car running on road

Reason/s Out-of-balance shaft Wear in splined sleeve Loose flange bolts Worn shaft joints

Chapter 8 Rear axle Contents Axleshaft (halfshaft) bearing/oil seal - renewal

Oil level-checking ss Seer Rear axle - removal and refitting

Axleshaft (halfshaft) - removal and refitting Drive pinion oil seal - renewal Fault diagnosis - rear axle ~ General description

Rear axle - repair and overhaul Roadwheel retaining studs - renewal

ONDN

—-OoOOWwWF

Specifications

Type

Hypoid, semi-floating

Final drive ratio

4.44:1

Oil capacity

1.75 pints (1.0 litre)

Torque wrench settings Ibfft 28 22 47 47 47

Oil level plug Bs ie hi Axleshaft bearing retainer plate bolts Shock absorber lower mounting nuts Upper radius arm bolt to rear axle* Lower radius arm bolt to rear axle* See leas *Tighten only with weight of car on roadwheels.

1.

General description

1 The rear axle is of the semi-floating type and is held in place by two lower swinging arms which are able to pivot on brackets welded

to the chassis. Coil springs are located between the underside of the body and the swinging arms. Longitudinal and diagonal location of the rear axle is also controlled by two upper swinging arms which locate between the underside of the body and the outer ends of the final drive

housing. 2 The differential unit is of the two-pinion design, driven by a hypoid crownwheel and pinion. It is mounted in a cast iron differential housing into which the halfshaft and hub outer tubes are pressed.

3.

The drive pinion is mounted in two taper roller bearings which are

specially preloaded using a collapsible type spacer. 4 The differential cage is also mounted on two taper roller bearings

which are preloaded by spreading the differential carrier. The drive is taken through two differential side-gears to both axleshafts. The axleshafts are splined to the differential side-gears and run in ballraces at their outer ends. These ball-races have integral oil seals.

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RO

Ss

2

Oil level — checking

eae ea Se 1 Atthe routine service intervals, the axle oil level should be checked and topped-up as required. With the car standing on a 2

level surface, remove

the combined

filler/level plug (Fig. 8.3). 3. The oil level should be up to the bottom edge of the hole. Add oil of the specified type as necessary, and refit the plug. Changing the rear axle oil is not specified and in fact no oil drain 4 plug is fitted. Periodically wipe any dirt or oil from the breather plug on the top 5 of the left-hand axle tube.

Fig. 8.1 Sectional view of differential unit A Collapsible spacer B Shim C_ Differential housing shims

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Chapter 8 Rear axle

83

5 The axleshaft may now be withdrawn from the rear axle. 6 It is possible for the ball races to bind onto the axleshaft, in which case screw in two long bolts through the rear end of the axle tube and thereby ease the axleshaft assembly out (Fig. 8.6). 7 Before refitting the axleshaft assembly, smear a little grease along the length of the axleshaft and also on the ball race to prevent corrosion due to moisture. 8 Insert the axleshaft into the rear axle tube, keeping the shaft

horizontal until its splines are felt to engage with those of the differential gears. 9 Secure the bearing retainer with the four bolts which should be tightened to the specified torque wrench setting. 10 Refit the brake drum and secure with the cheese-head screw. 11. Refit the roadwheel and lower the car to the ground.

4 Fig. 8.3 Removing rear axle oil level plug (Sec 2) 3

Axleshaft (halfshaft) — removal and refitting

1 Chock the front wheels, remove the rear wheel trim and slacken the wheel nuts. Jack up the rear of the car and support on firmly based axle-stands. Remove the roadwheel and release the handbrake. 2 Undo and remove the cheese-head screw that secures the brake drum to ther axleshaft. Using a soft-faced hammer, carefully tap outwards on the circumference of the brake drum and lift away the brake drum. 3 Using a socket wrench placed through the holes in the axleshaft flange, undo and remove the four bolts that secure the bearing retainer plate to the axle casing. 4 Place a container under the end of the rear axle to catch any oil that may drain out once the axleshaft has been removed.

Axleshaft (halfshaft) bearing/oil seal — renewal

1 Remove the axleshaft, as described in the preceding Section. 2 Secure the axleshaft in a vice fitted with jaw protectors and then carefully drill a hole in the bearing retaining collar. Do not drill right through the collar or the axleshaft will be damaged. Use a sharp cold chisel and cut the collar from the shaft. 3 Apress or suitable bearing extractor will be required to remove the bearing from the shaft. Do not damage the retainer plate during this operation.

4 Commence installation by fitting the retainer plate to the axleshaft, followed by the bearing (oil seal away from axleshaft flange) and a new bearing retaining collar. 5 Using a press or two-legged puller, apply pressure to the collar to draw all three components into their correct positions, tight against the axleshaft end-flange. 6 Apply a little grease to the bearing recess in the end of the axle tube and install the axleshaft, as described in Section 3.

Sw

:

Fig. 8.7 Splitting an axleshaft bearing retaining collar (Sec 4) Fig. 8.6

Using

casing (Sec 3)

bolts to ease

tight axleshaft

bearing from

axle

Chapter 8 Rear axle

84 nS

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5

Drive pinion oil seal — renewal

1

Jack up the rear of the vehicle and support it securely under the

bodyframe.

2

Disconnect the propeller shaft from the rear axle drive pinion after

marking them for correct alignment. 3 Remove the rear roadwheels and brake drums. 4 Using a spring balance and length of cord wound round the drive pinion flange, determine the torque required to turn the drive pinion. Record this figure. 5 Alternatively, a socket wrench fitted to the pinion nut and a suitable torque wrench may be used. 6 Mark the coupling in relation to the pinion splines for exact refitting.

ies Sins

12 Rotate the pinion to settle the bearing and then check the preload using the cord and spring balance method previously described and, by slight adjustment of the nut and rotation of the pinion, obtain a spring balance preload figure to match that which applied before dismantling. 13 On no account overtighten the pinion nut as it cannot be slackened without introducing endfloat caused by over compressing the collapsible spacer. Should this happen, withdraw the pinion nut, coupling, taper roller bearing and the collapsible spacer. Fit a new spacer and reassemble the other components and tighten the pinion nut to a torque of 150 Ibf ft (207 Nm). Tighten the nut only a fraction of a turn at a time once the specified torque setting has been reached and check the preload as previously described. 14 Remove the two holding bolts and refit the propeller shaft making sure to align the mating marks. Refit the brake drums and roadwheels and lower the car.

7 Hold the pinion coupling flange by placing two 2 inch long bolts through two opposite holes, bolting them up tight. Undo the self-

locking nut whilst holding a long bar or tyre lever between the two bolts as a lever. Remove the coupling and dust deflector. A puller may be required. 8 Remove the defective oil seal by driving in one side of the seal as far as it will go to force the opposite side of the seal from the housing.

9 Refit the new oil seal first having greased the mating surfaces of the seal and the axle housing. Do not remove the grease already in the lips of the new seal. The lips of the oil seal must face inwards. Using a piece of brass or copper tubing of suitable diameter, carefully drive the new oil seal into the axle housing recess until the face of the seal is flush with the housing. Make sure that the end of the pinion is not knocked during this operation. 10 Refit the coupling to its original position on the pinion splines after first having located the dust cover. 11 Fit a new pinion nut and, holding the coupling still with the long bar or tyre lever, tighten the nut until the pinion endfloat only just disappears. Do not overtighten.

6

Rear axle — removal and refitting

1 Remove the rear wheel trims and slacken the roadwheel nuts. Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of the car and place axlestands under the bodyframe. Place other stands beneath the lower radius arms. Remove the two rear wheels. 2 Support the weight of the rear axle by placing the saddle of a jack (preferably trolley type) under the centre of the rear axle. 3 With a scriber or file mark a line across the propeller snaft and pinion driving flanges so that they may be refitted together in their original positions. 4 Refer to Chapter 7 and remove the propeller shaft. 5 Release the handbrake. Undo and remove-the two cheese-head screws that secure the brake drums to the axleshaft. Using a softfaced hammer carefully tap outwards on the circumference of each brake drum and lift away the brake drums. 6 Using a screwdriver placed between the brake shoe and relay

Fig. 8.9 Unscrewing the pinion nut (Sec 5) Fig. 8.8

Drawing retainer plate, bearing/oil seal and collar into position on the axleshaft (Sec 4)

retaining

Fig. 8.10 Drawing off the pinion coupling (Sec 5)

Fig. 8.11 Pinion collapsible spacer, (bearing inner race withdrawn) (Sec 5)

Chapter 8 Rear axle

85

re

lever, ease the handbrake cable relay lever inwards. Grip the handbrake cable end with a pair of pliers and release it from the relay lever.

eh the handbrake cable through each brake backplate (see Chapter 9). 7 Wipe the top of the brake master cylinder reservoir and stick a piece of adhesive tape over the vent hole in the cap. This is to stop hydraulic fluid syphoning out during subsequent operations as a partial

vacuum is created. 8 Wipe the area around the brake flexible pipe to metal pipe union just in front of the rear axle and, referring to Chapter 9, detach the

brake flexible hose from the metal pipe (Fig. 8.12).

9 the rear 10

upper and each lower radius arm to the axle housing. 11 Lower the rear axle and remove both coil springs, retaining the

upper mounting rubber rings. 12 The complete rear axle assembly may now be withdrawn. 13 Refit the rear axle in the reverse sequence to removal. Re-align the marks on the propeller shaft and pinion flange. 14 Note that the radius arm bolts have their heads nearer the outside of the car. 15 The radius arm mounting bolts must be tightened to the specified torque wrench setting only when the roadwheels have been refitted and the car is standing on the ground. 16 It will be necessary to bleed the brake hydraulic system as described in Chapter 9. Remember to remove the adhesive tape from the cap of the master cylinder reservoir. 17 Check the amount of oil in the rear axle and top-up if necessary.

7

Fig. 8.12 Flexible-to-

(Sec 6)

With the trolley jack, slightly raise the axle and undo and remove bolt, nut and plain washer that secures each shock absorber to the axle. Contract the shock absorbers. Undo and remove the bolt, nut and plain washer that secures each

Rear axle — repair and overhaul

1 It is not recommended that servicing of the rear axle should go beyond the operations described in this Chapter. 2 Special tools and gauges are required to set up the differential, and dismantling and reassembly should be left to your Ford main dealer. 3 The latest trend is in fact for rear axle components not to be supplied individually but the complete factory-built unit only to be supplied as a spare. 4 Reference to the Fault Diagnosis chart will, however, assist the

Fig. 8.13 Shock absorber connection to rear axle (Sec 6)

Fig. 8.1 5 Upper radius arm attachment to rear axle (Sec 6)

Fig. 8.16 Method of installing a new roadwheel stud (Sec 8)

86

Chapter 8 Rear axle

home mechanic in eliminating some sources of noise and wear before deciding that it is the rear axle which

is undoubtedly

due for major

overhaul or reconditioning.

8

Roadwheel retaining studs — removal

1

A wheel retaining stud which has broken or whose threads have

stripped may be removed and the new one installed using a number of washers, built up to the thickness of the flange, and a wheel nut with its conical face outwards (Fig. 8.16). 2 When installing the new stud, make sure that its securing splines are correctly aligned with those in the axleshaft flange before applying pressure. 3. Tighten the wheel nut and draw the stud into the axleshaft flange. Add more washers if the nut tends to ‘bottom’ as the stud is drawn into position.

9 Fault diagnosis - rear axle

Symptom

Reason/s

Oil leakage

Faulty pinion oil seals Faulty axleshaft oil seals Defective cover gasket Blocked axle.casing breather

Noise

Lack of oil Worn bearings General wear

‘Clonk’ on taking up drive, and excessive backlash

Incorrectly tightened pinion nut Worn components Worn axleshaft splines

Elongated roadwheel bolt holes

Chapter 9 Braking system Contents Brake pedal - removal and refitting Disc pads - inspection and renewal

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Fault diagnosis - braking system te wa Flexible hose - inspection, removal and refitting Front brake caliper - removal, overhaul and refitting Front brake discs - inspection, removal and refitting General description Ra Ae aS aie ee Handbrake - adjustment

ac ai

aes ne 2

Master cylinder - removal, overhaul and refitting Pressure differential regulator - removal, overhaul and refitting |

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ZO we 8 dee 8 ee Gl Hee 1

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Rear brake drum - inspection Rear brake wheel cylinder - removal, overhaul and tefitting Rear brake shoes - inspection, removal and refitting Rigid brake lines - inspection, removal and refitting Vacuum servo air filter - renewal ue Be Vacuum servo non-return valve - removal and refitting

Handbrake cable and control lever - removal and refitting

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Vacuum servo unit - description

Hydraulic system- bleeding

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Vacuum

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Se

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servo unit - removal and refitting

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Specifications

System type

Four wheel hydraulic, disc front, drum rear; servo assistance; dual line. Handbrake, mechanised to rear wheels

Front brakes 9.74 in (247.5 mm)

Disc diameter Disc thickness

0.50 in (12.72 mm)

Disc run-out

0.45 in(11.40 mm) 0.002 in (0.05 mm)

Total swept area (both wheels)

194.49 in (1254.8 mm)

Disc thickness (minimum afterrefinishing)

Rear brakes 8.0 in (203.2 mm) 1.50 in (38.1 mm)

Drum diameter Shoe width

Torque wrench settings

Ibfft 50 32 18

Caliper mounting bolts Disc-to-hub bolts Brake backplate bolts

1

General description

Disc brakes are fitted to the front wheels and drum brakes to the rear. All are operated under servo-assistance from the brake pedal, this being connected to the master cylinder and servo assembly, and mounted on the bulkhead. The hydraulic system is of the dual line principle whereby the front disc brake calipers have a separate hydraulic system to that of the rear drum brake wheel cylinders, so that, if failure of the hydraulic pipes to the front or rear brakes occurs, half the braking system is still operative. Servo assistance in this condition is still available.

The front brake disc is secured to the hub flange and the caliper is mounted on the steering knuckle and wheel stub, so that the disc is able to rotate in between the two halves of the calipers. Inside each half of the caliper is a hydraulic cylinder, this being interconnected by a drilling which allows hydraulic fluid pressure to be transmitted to both halves. A piston operates in each cylinder, and is in contact with the

outer face of the brake pad. By depressing the brake pedal, hydraulic fluid pressure is increased by the servo unit and transmitted to the caliper by a system of metal and flexible hoses, whereupon the pistons are moved outwards so pushing the pads onto the face of the disc and slowing down the rotational speed of the disc. The rear drum brakes have one cylinder operating two shoes. When the brake pedal is depréssed, hydraulic fluid pressure, increased

Nm 69 44 25

by the servo unit, is transmitted to the rear brake wheel cylinders by a system of metal and flexible pipes. The pressure moves the pistons outwards so pushing the shoe linings into contact with the inside

circumference

of the brake

speed of the drum. The handbrake application.

provides

drum an

and slowing down independent

means

the rotational of rear

brake

Also, attached to each of the brake units is an automatic adjuster which operates in conjunction with the footbrake. A pressure differential valve is incorporated between the two circuits in order to prevent the rear wheels locking in advance of the front ones during heavy brake applications.

Whenever

it is necessary to obtain spare parts for the braking

system great care must be taken to ensure that the correct parts are obtained because of the varying types of braking components fitted to the Cortina Mk IV range of cars. 2

Disc pads — inspection and renewal

1 Apply the handbrake, remove the front wheel trim, slacken the wheel nuts, jack up the front of the car and place on firmly based axlestands. Remove the front wheel. 2 Inspect the amount of friction material left on the pads. The pads must be renewed when the thickness has been reduced to a minimum

Chapter 9 Braking system

88

Fig. 9.1 Dual line brake hydraulic circuit (sec 1) of 0.12 inch (3.0 mm). 3. If the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir is high, when the pistons are moved into their respective bores to accommodate new pads the level could rise sufficiently for the fluid to overflow. Place absorbent cloth around the reservoir or syphon alittle fluid out so preventing paintwork damage caused by spillage of the hydraulic fluid. 4 Using a pair of long nosed pliers extract the two small spring clips

that hold the main retaining pins in place (photo). 5 Remove the main retaining pins and wire anti-rattle clips. 6 The friction pads can now be removed from the caliper. If they prove difficult to remove by hand, a pair of long nosed pliers can be used. Lift away the shims. 7 Carefully clean the recesses in the caliper in which the friction pads and shims lie, and the exposed faces of each piston, of all traces of dust or rust. 8 Using a piece of wood or flat steel bar, depress each of the pistons squarely and fully into the caliper housing.

9 Fit new friction pads and shims, with the arrow on the shim pointing upwards. Insert the pad retaining pins and anti-rattle clips, and

secure with the spring clips (photo). 10 Refit the roadwheel and lower the car. Tighten the wheel nuts securely and refit the wheel trim. 11 Apply the brake pedal several times to bring the new pads into contact with the disc, then top up the master cylinder reservoir to its correct level.

3

Rear brake shoes— inspection, removal and refitting

1 Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of the car and place on firmly based axle-stands. Remove the roadwheel. 2 Release the handbrake, and remove the brake drum retaining screw. Using a soft-faced mallet on the outer circumference, remove the brake drum.

nee

2.4 Disc brake component identification A Spring clips B Retaining pins C Anti-rattle clips

2.9 Disc pad removal A Anti-squeal shim

B Friction pad C Upward-pointing arrow

Chapter 9 Braking system

89

3. The brake linings must be renewed when the lining material has worn down to 0.06 in (1.52 mm) at its thinnest part. If the linings are in good condition, brush away any accumulations of dust, taking care not to inhale it, refit the drum and then inspect the opposite brake. If the linings are worn below the minimum thickness, carry out the following operations. 4 Using a hooked piece of wire, disconnect both brake shoe return springs (Fig. 9.2). 5 Release and remove the shoe hold-down springs. A rod or old screwdriver, slotted at the end is useful to first depress and then unhook the spring from its retaining bracket (Fig. 9.3). 6 Pull the bottom of the front brake shoe towards the front of the vehicle. This will actuate the self-adjusting mechanism to the point where the two rachets slip out of engagement. Now twist the brake

shoe to release it from the spacer strut and remove it (Fig. 9.4). 7 Move the rear shoe away from and below the backplate and at the same time disconnect the handbrake operating cable from the shoe

lever (Fig. 9.6). 30mm 0 121n

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Fig. 9.3 Removing a shoe steady spring. Inset: tool for removal of

spring (Sec 3)

c=

Fig. 9.5 View of rear brake assembly (Sec 3) A Shoe steady springs B Brake shoe C Shoe return spring

D Wheel cylinder E Pivot pin retaining clip F Spacer strut

G Brake shoe H Large ratchet

J Small ratchet

Chapter 9 Braking system

90

Fig. 9.7 Brake shoe dismantling (trailing shoe) (Sec 3) A Operating lever B Clip C Shoe

D Pivot pin E Strut

Fig. 9.8 Disconnecting brake shoe lever from return spring (Sec 3)

Fig. 9.9 Brake shoe dismantling (Leading shoe) (Sec 3) A Shoe B Short ratchet

D Claw washer E Long ratchet

C Spring

F Spring clip

the front brake shoe, slide two 0.008 in (0.2 mm) feeler blades between the shoe and the ratchet before installing a new spring washer. This will provide the necessary rotational clearance. Make sure that the retaining tabs are correctly positioned as shown in Fig. 9.10. c) Having fitted the longer ratchet and securing clip, arrange the engagement of both ratchets to provide an overlap of 4 or 5

teeth (Fig. 9.17). d) The spring loaded ratchet lever must be pulled down with a hooked piece of wire so that the second ratchet can be pushed

forward to the minimum adjustment position (Fig. 9.12). e) The /arger shoe return spring is located at the top of the brake assembly.

11 Once the brake drum has been installed, apply the foot brake pedal several times to adjust the shoes to their minimum drum clearance

Fig. 9.10 Fitting short ratchet pivot claw washer (Sec 3)

position.

8 The rear brake shoe can be dismantled by removing the clip from the pivot pin and extracting the pin. Lever the strut from the shoe and detach the lever return spring. 9 The front brake shoe can be dismantled by removing the clip and separating the longer ratchet lever from the shoe. Remove and discard

the spring washer and then separate the shorter ratchet lever and spring from the shoe. 10

Reassembly

of the

new

shoes

is a reversal

of removal

and

dismantling, but note the following points: a) No lubricant must be applied to the components. b) When

assembling the smaller ratchet, spring and pivot pin to

4

Front brake caliper— removal, overhaul and refitting

1 Apply the handbrake, remove the front wheel trim, slacken the wheel nuts, jack up the front of the car and place on firmly based axlestands. Remove the front wheel. 2 Wipe the top of the brake master cylinder reservoir cap and fix a

piece of adhesive tape over the vent hole. This is to

op hydraulic fluid

syphoning out during subsequent operations.

3

Remove the friction pads, as described in Section 2.

Chapter 9 Braking system

Fig. 9.12 Adjusting brake shoe ratchets to minimum position (Sec 3)

91

adjustment

Fig. 9.13 Flexible brake hose attachment to caliper bracket (Sec 4)

4 If it is intended to fit new caliper pistons and/or seals, depress the brake pedal to bring the pistons into contact with the disc and so assist subsequent removal of the pistons. 5 Wipe the area clean around the flexible hose bracket and detach the pipe as described in Section 8. Tape up the end of the pipe to stop the possibility of dirt entering. 6 Using a screwdriver or chisel, bend back the tabs on the locking plate and undo the two caliper body mounting bolts. Lift away the caliper from its mounting flange on the steering knuckle and wheel

stub. Note: Do not confuse the mounting bolts with the two bolts which secure the two halves of the caliper body together. These must never be released. 7 The pistons should be removed first. To do this, half withdraw one piston from its bore in the caliper body. 8 Carefully remove the securing circlip and extract the sealing bellows from their location in the lower part of the piston skirt. Completely remove the piston. 9 If difficulty is experienced in withdrawing the piston use a jet of compressed air or a foot pump to move it out of its bore.

10

Remove the sealing bellows from their location in the annular ring

which is machined in the cylinder bore. 11 Remove the piston sealing ring from

the cylinder bore using a small screwdriver but take care not to scratch the fine finish of the bore. 12 To remove the second piston repeat the operations described for removal of the first piston. 13 It is important that the two halves of the caliper are not separated under any circumstances. If hydraulic fluid leaks are evident from the joint, the caliper must be renewed. 14 Thoroughly wash all parts in methylated spirit or clean hydraulic fluid. During reassembly new rubber seals must be fitted and these should be well lubricated with clean hydraulic fluid. 15 Inspect the pistons and bores for signs of wear, score marks or damage, and if evident, new parts should be obtained ready for fitting or a new caliper obtained. 16 To reassemble, fit one of the piston seals into the annular groove

in the cylinder bore.

Fig. 9.15 Disc caliper piston components (one side) (Sec 4)

17 Fit the rubber bellows to the cylinder bore groove so that the lip is turned outwards. 18 Lubricate the seal and rubber bellows with clean hydraulic fluid. Push the piston, crown first, through the rubber sealing bellows and then into the cylinder bore. Take care as it is easy for the piston to damage the rubber bellows. 19 With the piston half inserted into the cylinder bore fit the inner edge of the bellows into the annular groove in the piston skirt. 20 Push the piston down the bore as far as it will go. Secure the rubber bellows to the caliper with the circlip. 21 Repeat the operations just described for the second piston. 22 To refit the caliper, position it over the disc and move it until the mounting bolt holes are in line with the two front holes in the steering

knuckle and wheel stub mounting flange. 23 Fit the caliper retaining bolts through the two holes in a new locking plate and insert the bolts through the caliper body. Tighten the

92

Chapter9

Braking system

a

eee

bolts to the specified torque. 24 Using a screwdriver, pliers or chisel, bend up the locking plate tabs to lock the bolts. 25 Remove the tape from the end of the flexible hydraulic pipe and reconnect it to the union on the hose bracket. Be careful not to cross

thread the union nut during the initial turns. The union nut should be tightened securely, but not overtightened.

noting which way round it is fitted. Do not use a metal screwdriver as this could scratch the piston.

Inspect the inside of the cylinder for score marks caused by 9 impurities in the hydraulic fluid. If any are found, the cylinder and

pistons will require renewal. Note: if the wheei cylinder requires renewal always ensure that the replacement is exactly similar to the one removed.

26 Push the pistons into their respective bores so as to accommodate the pads. Watch the level of hydraulic fluid in the master cylinder reservoir as it can overflow if too high whilst the pistons are being retracted. Place absorbent cloth around the reservoir or syphon alittle fluid out so preventing paintwork damage caused by spillage of the hydraulic fluid. 27 If the old pads are being re-used, refit them into their respective criginal positions. If new pads are being used it does not matter which side they are fitted. Refit the shims, and clips.

10 If the cylinder is sound, thoroughly clean it out with fresh hydraulic fluid. 11 The old rubber seals will probably be swollen and visibly worn. Smear the new rubber seals with hydraulic fluid and refit to the pistons making sure they are the correct way round with the flap of the seal adjacent to the piston rear shoulder. 12 Wet the cylinder bore with clean hydraulic fluid and insert the return spring. Carefully insert the piston seal end-first into the cylinder,

28

into the bore. 13 Position the rubber boots on each end of the wheel cylinder and secure in position with the retaining rings.

Insert the two pad and shim retaining pins and secure in position

with the spring clips. 29 Bleed the hydraulic system as described in Section 10. Refit the roadwheel and lower the car. Remember to remove the adhesive tape from the reservoir cap.

making sure that the seals do not roll over as they are initially fitted

14 Position the cylinder in its slot in the backplate. Secute with the two bolts and washers. 15 Reconnect the brake

pipe/s to the

rear of the wheel

cylinder,

taking care not to cross thread the union nuts. On the left-hand wheel 5

Rear brake wheel cylinder — removal, overhaul and refitting

If hydraulic fluid is leaking from the brake wheel cylinder, it will be necessary to dismantle it and renew the seals. Should brake fluid be found running down the side of the wheel, or if it is noticed that a pool

cylinder make sure the pipes are connected the correct way round as was noted during removal. 16 Refit the brake shoes and drum as described in Section 3. 17 Refer to Section 10 and bleed the brake hydraulic system. Remember to remove the adhesive tape from the reservoir cap.

of liquid forms alongside one wheel, or the level in the master cylinder drops, it is also indicative of failed seals.

1 Refer to Section 3 and remove the brake drum and shoes. Clean down the rear of the backplate using a stiff brush. Place a quantity of rag under the backplate to catch any hydraulic fluid that may issue from the open pipe or wheel cylinder. 2 Wipe the top of the brake master cylinder reservoir cap and press a piece of adhesive tape over the vent hole. This is to stop hydraulic fluid syphoning out. 3 Using an open-ended spanner, carefully unscrew the hydraulic pipe connection union/s to the rear of the wheel cylinder. Note that on the left-hand wheel cylinder two pipes are attached to the wheel cylinder. Note the location of each pipe as these must not be interchanged. To prevent dirt ingress, tape over the pipe ends. 4 Undo and remove the two bolts and washers that secure the wheel cylinder to the brake backplate. 5 Withdraw the wheel cylinder from the front face of the brake backplate. 6 To dismantle the wheel cylinder first ease off each rubber dust

1 Apply the handbrake and chock the front wheels. Drain the fluid from the master cylinder reservoir and master cylinder by attaching a plastic bleed tube to one of the brake bleed screws. Undo the screw one turn and then pump the fluid out into a clean glass container by means of the brake pedal. Hold the brake pedal against the floor at the end of each stroke and tighten the bleed screw. When the pedal has returned to its normal position loosen the bleed screw and repeat the process until the reservoir is empty. 2 Wipe any dirt away from the pipe unions and then disconnect the pipes from the master cylinder body. On earlier models, only two pipes are connected to the master cylinder. On later models, three pipes are connected, the two nearer the front end of the master cylinder going to

cover retaining ring and lift away each rubber dust cover.

3

7

Carefully lift out each piston together with its seal from the wheel

cylinder bore. Recover the return springs. 8 Using the fingers only, remove the piston seal from each piston,

Fig. 9.16 Exploded view of a rear wheel cylinder (Sec 5) A Dust cap B Bleed nipple D Cylinder body E Boot retainer

F G H J

Boot Piston Seal Centre spring

6

Master cylinder — removal, overhaul and refitting

the front brakes and the one nearer the servo unit going to the rear brakes. This later arrangement removes the need for a three-way connector which is used on the earlier cars.

Undo and remove the two nuts and spring washers that secure the

master cylinder to the servo unit. Lift away the master cylinder taking care that no hydraulic fluid is allowed to drip onto the paintwork. Clean away external dirt. 4 Remove the reservoir by pulling upwards, and remove the rubber seals. 5 Depress the operating rod to relieve the pressure on the piston stop pin, and remove the pin. 6 Extract the circlip and withdraw the primary piston assembly. 7 Tap the end of the master cylinder against a block of wood and eject the secondary piston assembly. 8 To dismantle the primary piston, unscrew and remove the screw and sleeve. Remove the spring, retainer, seal and shim. Gently lever off the other seal, taking care not to scratch the piston. 9 To dismantle the secondary piston, remove the spring, retainer,

seal and shim. Gently lever off the other seal, taking care not to damage the piston. 10 Examine the bore of the cylinder carefully for any signs of scores or ridges. If this is found to be smooth all over, new seals can be fitted. If, however, there is any doubt of the condition of the bore, then a new cylinder must be fitted. 11 If examination of the seals shows them to be apparently oversize, or swollen, or very loose on the plungers, suspect oil contamination in the system. Oil will swell these rubber seals, and if one is found to be swollen, it is reasonable to assume that all seals in the braking system will need attention. 12 Thoroughly clean all parts in clean hydraulic fluid or methylated spirits. Ensure that the bypass ports are clear. 13 All components should be assembled wet by dipping in clean

Chapter 9 Braking system

93

Fig. 9.17 Exploded view of the master cylinder (Sec 6) A Reservoir B Circlip C Primary piston assembly

D E F G

Secondary piston assembly Master cylinder body Seal

Stop pin

Fig. 9.19 Primary piston components (Sec 6) A Screw B Sleeve

E Seal F Piston

C Spring

G Seal

D

Retainer

brake fluid. 14 Using the fingers only, fit the shim and seals to the secondary piston, ensuring they are the correct way round. Fit the retainer and spring. Check that the master cylinder bore is clean, and smear with clean brake fluid. 15 Wet the secondary piston assembly with clean fluid, and insert into the master cylinder, spring first. Ease the lips of the seals into the cylinder bore taking care they do not roll over. 16 Fit the shim and seals to the primary piston, ensuring they are the

Fig. 9.20 Secondary piston components (Sec 6) A

Seal

B Piston

C Seal

D Retainer

E Spring

correct way round. Fit the retainer, spring, sleeve and screw. 17 Wet the primary piston assembly with clean fluid, and insert into the master cylinder, spring first. Ease the lips of the seals into the cylinder bore taking care they do not roll over.

18

Depress the operating rod and insert the piston stop pin.

19 Check the condition of the front and rear reservoir gaskets and if

Chapter 9 Braking system

94

there is any doubt as to their condition they must be renewed. 20 Refit the hydraulic fluid reservoir and the pipes to their correct unions. 21 The master cylinder is now ready for refitting to the servo unit. On completion, bleed the complete hydraulic system and road test the car.

7

Pressure

differential

regulator

—

removal,

overhaul

and

refitting 1. 2 3

Disconnect the lead from the battery negative terminal. Disconnect the electrical plug from the regulator valve. Disconnect the hydraulic lines from the regulator, and plug or cap

the pipes.

If there

is likely to be any confusion

when

reconnecting

them, mark their locations with a piece of masking tape.

4

Unscrew and remove the single bolt which retains the regulator

valve and lift the valve away. 5 Clean away all external dirt, then unscrew and remove the warning

light switch. 6 Unscrew and remove the piston retaining plug from the end of the

Fig. 9.21

Pressure

differential

valve body.

7

valve (warning

light switch

plug

arrowed) (Sec 7)

Using a thin rod inserted through the fluid union hole in the end of

the valve body, push out the piston assembly. 8 Slide off the seals and sleeves. 9 Reassemble using new components as necessary.

10 Refit by reversing the removal hydraulic system (see Section 10).

8

operation

and

then

bleed

the

Flexible hose — inspection, removal and refitting

1. Inspect the condition of the flexible hydraulic hoses leading to each of the front disc brake calipers and also the one at the front of the rear axle. If they are swollen, damaged or chafed, they must be renewed. 2 Wipe the top of the brake master cylinder reservoir cap and stick a piece of adhesive tape over the vent hole. This is to stop hydraulic fluid syphoning out during subsequent operations.

3 To remove a front flexible hose, wipe the union and brackets free of dust, and undo the union nuts from the metal pipe ends. 4 Undo and remove the locknuts and plain washers securing each flexible hose end to the bracket and lift away the flexible hose. 5 To remove the rear flexible hose follow the instructions for the front flexible hose. 6 Refitting in both cases is the reverse sequence to removal. It will be necessary to bleed the brake hydraulic system as described in Section 10. If one hose has been removed it is only necessary to bleed either the front or rear brake hydraulic system. Remember to remove the adhesive tape from the reservoir cap. 7 Oncompletion of the work, check that the tyres do not rub against the hoses at full steering lock positions. If they do, the hoses can be given a ‘set’ in either direction by releasing the locknut at the bracket and twisting the hose by not more than one quarter of a turn.

Fig. 9.23

A Rubber seals

10 9

Internal components of the pressure (Sec. 7)

differential valve

B Sleeves

Hydraulic system — bleeding

Rigid brake lines — inspection, removal and refitting

1 At regular intervals wipe the steel brake pipes clean and examine them for signs of rust or denting caused by flying stones. 2 Examine the securing clips which should be insulated to prevent wear to the pipe surface. Bend the tongues of the clips if necessary to ensure that they hold the brake pipes securely without letting them rattle or vibrate. 3 Check that the pipes are not touching any adjacent components or rubbing against any part of the vehicle. Where this is observed, bend the pipe gently away to clear. 4 Although the pipes are plated any section of pipe may become rusty through chafing and should be renewed. Brake pipes are avail-

1 Removal of all the air from the hydraulic system is essential to the correct working of the braking system, and before undertaking this, examine the fluid reservoir cap to ensure that the vent hole is clear.

able to the correct length and fitted with end unions from most Ford

Check the level of fluid in the reservoir, and top-up if required. 2 Check all brake line unions and connections for possible seepage, and at the same time check the condition of the rubber hoses which may be perished. 3 If the condition of the caliper or wheel cylinders is in doubt, check for possible signs of fluid leakage. 4 If there is any possibility that incorrect fluid has been used in the system, drain all the fluid out and flush thoroughly with methylated spirit. Renew all piston seals and cups since they will be affected and could possibly fail under pressure.

dealers and can be made to pattern by many accessory suppliers. When installing the new pipes use the old pipes as a guide to bending and do not make any bends sharper than is necessary. 5 The system will, of course, have to be bled when the circuit has been reconnected.

5 Gather together a clean glass jar and a length of tubing which fits tightly over the bleed screws, and a tin of the correct brake fluid. 6 To bleed the system, clean the area around the bleed valves and start on the front right-hand bleed screw by first removing the rubber cup over the end of the bleed screw.

Chapter9

Braking system

95

Fig. 9.25 Opening the bleed nipple (bleed tube connected) (Sec

10)

Fig. 9.26 Using a dial gauge to check disc run-out (Sec 11) 7 Place the end of the tube in a clean jar which should contain sufficient fluid to keep the end of the tube underneath during the operation. 8 Open the bleed screw 4 turn with a spanner and depress the brake pedal. After slowly releasing the pedal, pause for a moment to allow the fluid to recoup in the master cylinder and then depress it again. This will force air from the system. Continue until no more air bubbles can be seen coming from the tube. At intervals make certain that the reservoir is kept topped-up, otherwise air will enter at this point again. 9 Finally press the pedal down fully and hold it there whilst the bleed screw is tightened. To ensure correct seating it should be tightened using a spanner of short length only. 10 Repeat this operation on the second front brake, and then move to the rear brakes. 11 When completed check the level of the fluid in the reservoir and then check the feel of the brake pedal which should be firm and free from any ‘spongy’ action, which is normally associated with air in the

system. 12 It will be noticed that during the bleeding operation

the effort required to depress the pedal the full stroke will increase because of the loss of vacuum assistance as it is destroyed by repeated operation of the servo unit. Although the servo unit will be inoperative as far as assistance is concerned it does not affect the brake bleed operation. 13 Ignore the brake warning light if it comes on, as the piston will be displaced during bleeding but will centralise itself on completion of the operations.

Fig. 9.27 Removing disc bolts and locking plate (Sec 11)

below the minimum specified (see Specifications). 3 If uneven braking or judder occurs, this may be due to the disc being distorted or out of true. 4 Provided that the hub bearings are correctly adjusted, disc run-out can be checked with a dial gauge or feeler blades (located between the disc and a fixed point) while the disc is slowly rotated. Excessive runout can only be corrected by renewal of the disc. 5 To remove a disc, disconnect the flexible hydraulic hose at the caliper. 6 Unscrew and remove the caliper mounting bolts and remove the caliper. 7 Tap off the hub dust cap and then extract the split pin.

8

Front brake discs — inspection, removal and refitting

and remove

11 When reassembling the disc and hub, it is essential that the mating surfaces are absolutely clean and that new bolts and locking plates are used. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque. 12 Refit the hub disc, the outer bearing, thrust washer, nut and adjust the bearings as described in Chapter 11. 13 Fit the nut retainer and a new split pin. Tap the dust cap into position. 14 Refit the caliper, and bleed the front hydraulic circuit. 15 Refit the roadwheel and lower the car. 12

11

Remove the nut retainer, the nut, thrust washer and outer bearing.

9 Slide the hub/disc assembly from the stub axle. 10 Flatten the tabs on the locking plates, and unscrew the bolts which secure the hub and disc together.

Rear brake drum — inspection

1 With the car jacked up and the roadwheel removed, examine the disc for deep grooves or scoring. Light scoring is normal. 2 \f deep grooves are evident, the disc should be removed and either

1 Whenever a rear brake drum is removed, inspect the internal friction surfaces for grooving or scoring. 2 If these are evident, renew the drum; refinishing is not recommended. 3 After a high mileage, the drums may become worn oval in shape

renewed or surface ground, provided that the thickness is not reduced

giving rise to judder or uneven

braking. This condition

can only be

Chapter 9 Braking system

96

ig Fig. 9.28 Exploded view of the brake pedal assembly (Sec 13) A B C D

Pedal bracket Stop bolt Stoplight switch Spring clip

G Spring clip H Bush J Pedal return spring

K Pedal pad

E Washer

L Brake pedal

F Pedal bush

M

N P Q R_ S

Clevis pin Pedal bush Spacer Pedal shaft Spacer

T U V W X

Bush Bush Washer Wave washer Spring clip

Bush

satisfactorily measured with internal calipers and if evident, the drum must be renewed.

firmly based axle-stands located under the rear axle. Release the hand-

13

several times until the ratchet is tightened (Fig. 9.29). 4 At the. adjusting bracket, on the right-hand side, separate the adjusting nut and sleeve using a screwdriver. Engage the keyed sleeve in the bracket. 5 Now adjust the cable at the right-hand cable-to-body abutment bracket to give a plunger free movement of 0.04 to 0.06 in (1.0 to 1.5 mm) on each brake backplate. 6 Equalise the movement of the plungers by gripping the handbrake

Brake pedal — removal and refitting

1 2 3

Open the bonnet and for safety reasons disconnect the battery. Undo the five screws and remove the lower dash trim panel. Withdraw the spring clip from the brake servo pushrod-to-brake pedal clevis pin. Lift away the clevis pin and the bushes, and allow the pushrod to drop. 4 Detach the brake pedal return spring from the brake pedal bracket. 5 Remove the circlip and flat washer, and carefully push the shaft

brake. 3 Check that there is no free movement at the rear wheel adjustment plungers. If the plungers move, the footbrake should be operated

through the bracket and pedal. 6 Lift away the brake pedal. Remove the half bushes from each side of the brake pedal. 7 Inspect the bushes for signs of wear, and if evident, they must be renewed. Ensure that the key on each bush engages with the cut-out in the pedal. 8 Refitting the brake pedal is the reverse sequence to removal. Lubricate the bushes and shafts with a molybdenum disulphide grease. 9 Adjust the stop light switch if required by releasing the switch locknuts and moving the position of the switch so that it will actuate the stop lamps (ignition on) after the brake pedal arm has been depressed between 0.2 and 0.6 in (5.0 and 15.0 mm).

14

Handbrake — adjustment

1. As the adjustment of the handbrake is normally quite automatic it is important to check that lack of adjustment is not caused by the cable becoming detached from the body-mounted clips, that the equaliser bracket and pivot points are adequately lubricated and that the rear shoe linings have not worn excessively. 2 Chock the front wheels. Jack up the rear of the car and support on

Fig. 9.29

Checking

free movement at adjuster plunger on rear brake backplate (Sec 14)

Chapter 9 Braking system

Fig. 9.30

Handbrake

cable

adjusting

nut assembly.

97

A-Adjuster

(Sec 5) 5

o3°

oW

me

Fig. 9.32 Handbrake cable assembly (Sec 15) Fig. 9.33 Handbrake control lever components (Sec 15) at the equaliser bracket and adjusting the position of the cable. 7 Should adjustment of the cable not alter the plunger free movement, it is an indication that the cable is binding or the automatic brake adjuster is not operating correctly - usually due to seizure of the moving parts within the brake unit. It could also be that the adjustment plungers have seized in their locations in the backplate. Further investigation will therefore be necessary. 8 The adjusting nut and keyed sleeve will lock together automatically at the first application of the handbrake. 9 Remove the axle-stands and lower the car to the ground.

15 From under the vehicle remove the spring clip, clevis pin and wave washer securing the equaliser bracket to the handbrake lever. 16 Undo and remove the two bolts and spring washers that secure the handbrake lever to the floor. The handbrake lever assembly may be lifted away from its location on the floor. 17 Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal. Smear the clevis pin with a little grease. The handbrake lever seal must be installed with the paint spot uppermost.

16 15

Handbrake cable and control lever — removal and refitting

1. Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of the car and support on firmly based axle-stands located under the rear axle. Release the handbrake. Remove the two rear wheels. 2 From under the vehicle remove the spring clip, and withdraw the

clevis pin and wave washer from the handbrake lever yoke (Fig. 9.31) 3 Pull back and withdraw the cable from the two floor brackets. Using a pair of pliers withdraw the retaining U-shaped clip at the lefthand bracket. Remove the cable from the clips at the radius arms. 4

Remove

the brake drums.

If they are tight they may be removed

using a soft-faced mallet on the outer drum circumference and tapping outwards. 5 Detach the brake cable from each brake unit relay lever and pull the cable through the rear of the backplate. 6 Detach the cable from the equaliser. 7 To refit the cable first feed the cable ends through the rear of the backplate and reconnect to the relay levers. Refit the brake drums. Attach the cable to the underbody brackets and clips on the 8 radius arms. Take care to make sure that the adjuster is correctly located in its bracket. 9 Engage the cable within the groove of the equaliser and then connect the equaliser to the handbrake lever. 10 Refit the rear wheels and referring to Section 14 adjust the handbrake cable. 11 Remove the axle-stands and lower the car to the ground. 12 To remove the control lever, carry out the following operations but if a centre console if fitted this will have to be withdrawn first. 13 Undo and remove the self-tapping screws that secure the handbrake lever rubber gaiter to the floor. Slide the gaiter up the handbrake lever. 14 Lift away the carpeting from the handbrake area.

Vacuum servo unit — description

A vacuum servo unit is fitted into the brake hydraulic circuit in series with the master cylunder, to provide assistance to the driver when the brake pedal is depressed. This reduces the effort required by the driver to operate the brakes under all braking conditions. The unit operates by vacuum obtained from the induction manifold and comprises, basically, a booster diaphragm and check valve. The servo unit and hydraulic master cylinder are connected together so that the servo unit piston rod acts as the master cylinder pushrod. The driver's effort is transmitted through another pushrod to the servo unit piston and its built-in control system. The servo unit piston does not fit tightly into the cylinder, but has a strong diaphragm to keep its edges in constant contact with the cylinder wall, so assuring an airtight seal between the two parts. The forward chamber. is held under vacuum conditions created in the inlet manifold of the engine and, during periods when the brake pedal is not in use, the controls open a passage to the rear chamber so placing it under vacuum conditions as well. When the brake pedal is depressed, the vacuum passage to the rear chamber is cut off and the chamber opened to atmospheric pressure. The consequent rush of air pushes the servo piston forward in the vacuum chamber and operates the main pushrod to the master cylinder. The controls are designed so that assistance is given under all conditions and when the brakes are not required, vacuum in the rear chamber is established when the brake pedal is released. All air from the atmosphere entering the rear chamber is passed through a small air filter. Under normal operating conditions the vacuum servo unit is very reliable and does not require overhaul except at very high mileages. In

this case it is far better to obtain a service exchange unit, rather than repair the original unit. It is emphasized, that the servo unit assists in reducing the braking

98

Chapter 9 Braking system

effort required at the foot pedal and in the event of its failure, the hydraulic braking system is in no way affected except that the need for higher pedal pressure will be noticed.

brake fluid to facilitate entry of the valve into the grommet.

18

17

Vacuum servo air filter — renewal

Vacuum servo non-return valve — removal and refitting

1 Release the hose clip and pull the vacuum hose from the nonreturn valve which is located on the front face of the servo unit. 2 Observe the angles of the nozzle of the non-return valve and then pull the valve from its sealing grommet. A flat blade inserted between the valve and the grommet will help in levering the valve out. 3 Pull the grommet from the servo housing, gripping it securely with a pair of pliers so that it does not fall inside the unit. 4 Refitting is a reversal of removal but apply a little rubber grease or

Fig. 9.34 Vacuum

hose attachment to servo unit non-return valve

(Sec 17)

1 At the intervals specified in ‘Routine Maintenance’ (or earlier in dusty climates) the air filter should be renewed. 2 Toremove it from its location around the servo unit pushrod, peel back the dust excluder. 3 To save disconnecting the pushrod, the old filter may be cut away and removed. 4 Make a diagonal cut from the centre hole to the outside edge of the new filter and install it. 5 Refit the dust excluder.

Fig. 9.35 Removing servo unit non-return valve (Sec 17)

COCAHO XXX

Fig. 9.36 Vacuum servo unit components (Sec 18)

Chapter 9 Braking system

19 Vacuum servo unit — removal and refitting 1 Disconnect the battery. 2 Remove the instrument panel lower insulation pad to gain access to the brake pedal bracket. 3. Disconnect the pushrod from the brake pedal. 4 Withdraw the bushes from the pushrod and let the pushrod fall free. 5 Disconnect the pedal return spring.

20

6 Disconnect the vacuum hose from the servo unit. 7 Disconnect the two brake lines from the brake master cylinder. Plug the lines and unions to prevent loss of fluid. 8 Unbolt the master cylinder from the front face of the servo unit and remove the master cylinder. 9 Unscrew and remove the nuts which secure the vacuum servo mounting bracket to the engine compartment rear bulkhead. 10 Remove the servo unit complete with mounting bracket.

11 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Do not attempt to adjust the length of the servo pushrod as this is set during production. 12 Bleed the hydraulic system on completion.

Fault diagnosis - braking system

Symptom

Reason/s

Pedal travels almost to floorboards before brakes operate

Brake fluid level too low Caliper leaking Master cylinder leaking (bubbles in master cylinder fluid) Brake flexible hose leaking Brake line fractured Brake system unions loose Rear automatic adjusters seized

Brake pedal feels springy

New linings not yet bedded in Brake discs or drums badly worn or cracked Master cylinder securing nuts loose

Brake pedal feels spongy and soggy

Caliper or wheel cylinder leaking Master cylinder leaking (bubbles in master cylinder reservoir) Brake pipe, line or flexible hose leaking Unions in brake system loose Air in hydraulic system

Excessive effort required to brake car

Pad or shoe linings badly worn New pads or shoes recently fitted - not yet bedded-in Harder linings fitted than standard causing increase in pedal pressure Lining and brake drums contaminated with oil, grease or hydraulic fluid Servo unit inoperative or faulty

Brakes uneven and pulling to one side

Linings and discs or drums contaminated with oil, grease or hydraulic fluid Tyres pressures unequal Radial ply tyres fitted at one end of the car only Brake caliper loose Brake pads or shoes fitted incorrectly Different type of linings fitted at each wheel

Anchorages for front suspension or rear suspension loose Brake discs or drums badly worn, cracked or distorted Brakes tend to bind, drag or lock-on

i

99

Air in hydraulic system Wheel cylinders seized Handbrake cables too tight

Chapter 10

Electrical system

Contents

Alternator brushes (Bosch) - inspection, removal and refitting Alternator brushes (Lucas) - inspection, removal and refitting Alternator brushes (Femsa) - inspection, removal and refitting Alternator - removal and refitting Alternator - fault finding and repair Alternator - general description and precautions Alternator - routine maintenance it: Battery - maintenance and charging Battery - removal and refitting Bulbs - renewal ie Courtesy lamp switch - removal and rfiting Fault diagnosis - electrical system in Fuel contents and water temperature gauges

Fuses General description

PERE

icc

Satoe

Sat

Headlamps - alignment e Headlamp assembly - removal and refitting Horn - fault tracing and rectification : Ignition switch and lock - removal and refitting

1

Instrument Instrument Oil pressure Radios and Radios and

panel - removal and refitting panel switch - removal and refitting warning lamp tape players - installation (general) tape players - suppression of interference

(general) Relays - renewal

rok

he

ore

She

Speedometer cable - renewal and‘Tefitting - general description Starter motor - overhaul wey Gece Starter motor - removal and refitting Starter motor - testing on engine Z Steering column switches - removal and refitting Windscreen washer es Windscreen wiper arms - removal ‘and refitting Windscreen wiper blades - removal and refitting Wiper motor - dismantling, inspection and reassembly Wiper motor and linkage - renewal and refitting

Starter motor WHAARANOOW

Specifications

System type

12V negative earth

Battery

38AH

Alternator Type

Nominal output at 13.5V and 6000 rev/min Maximum continuous speed : Stator winding resistance (ohms per phase)

Rotor winding resistance (ohms at 20°C) Minimum length of slip ring brushes : Regulated voltage at 4000 rev/min and 3 to7 amp load

Belt driven: Bosch, Lucas or Femsa

Bosch 28 amp 15 000 rev/min 0.2 + 0.01 4.0+ 0.4 0.197 in(5.0 mm) 13.7 to 14.5V

Starter motor Type see Number of brushes Minimum brush length Rotational direction Maximum current draw

Lucas inertia

4 0.32 in (8.0 mm) Clockwise

365 amps (4280 watts)

Bulbs Unit

Wattage

Headlamps Front direction indicators Rear direction indicators

45/40 21 21 21/5 21 21 4 10 es 2.6

Stop/tail Reversing lamp Rear number plate Front parking lamps Interior lamp Warning lamps Panel lamps

Lucas 28 amp 15 000 rev/min 0.198+0.01 3.35+ 5% 0.197 in (5.0 mm) 14.2 to 14.6V

Femsa 32 amp 15 000 rev/min 0.173+0.01 5.0+0.15 0.28 in(7.0 mm) 13.7 to 14.5V

Chapter 10

Electrical system

101

——————

5

1.

Adischarged battery may be due to one of the following cases:

General description a) Insufficient mileage being covered to charge it.

b) Slack drivebelt to alternator.

The electrical system is of the 12 volt negative earth type and the major components comprise a battery of which the negative terminal is earthed, an alternator which is driven from the crankshaft pulley, and

c) Bador loose connections at battery or alternator terminals.

d) Faulty alternator or regulator.

a starter motor.

The battery supplies a steady amount of current for the ignition, lighting and other electrical circuits; and provides a reserve of power when the current consumed by the electrical equipment exceeds that being produced by the alternator. The alternator has its own regulator, which ensures a high output if the battery is in a low state of charge or the demand from the electrical equipment is high, and a low output if the battery is fully charged and there is little demand for the electrical equipment.

2

Battery — maintenance and charging

1 Normal weekly battery maintenance consists of checking the electrolyte level of each cell to ensure that the separators are covered by + inch (6 mm) of electrolyte. If the level has fallen, top-up the battery using distilled water only . Do not overfill. If a battery is overfilled or any electrolyte spilled, immediately wipe away the excess. 2 The battery which is fitted as original equipment has a translucent case and the electrolyte level should be maintained between the minimum and maximum marks. 3 As well as keeping the terminals clean and covered with petroleum jelly, the top of the battery, and especially the top of the cells, should be kept clean and dry. This helps prevent corrosion and ensures that the battery does not become partially discharged by

leakage through dampness and dirt. 4 Once every three months remove the battery and inspect the battery securing bolts, the battery clamp plate, tray and battery leads for corrosion (white fluffy deposits on the metal which are brittle to touch). If any corrosion is found clean off the deposit with ammonia and paint over the clean metal with an anti-rust/anti-acid paint.

6

If none of these reasons is the cause, then the battery itself must

be suspected of failure; it should be tested and a new one installed if it is proved defective.

7 Where lack of mileage is the cause of a low state of charge, a ‘trickle’ charger may be safely used overnight. Disconnect the battery leads before connecting the battery charger. 8

It is rare

these

days for the specific gravity of a battery to be

checked by the home mechanic as a means of assessing the state of charge, but where a hydrometer is available and a check is desired, the following table will be useful. 9 Never add anything but distilled or purified water to your battery; the original acid never evaporates and can only be lost by spillage or leakage and in this event, the battery should be refilled by your dealer.

The addition of so-called booster or revitalising liquids to a battery has doubtful effect, and may shorten the life of the cells even further. 10 If jumper cables are being used to start the car from an outside battery in a full state of charge, make sure that the jumper leads are

connected positive (+) to positive (+), and negative (—) to negative (—). Table A — Specific gravity — battery fully charged 1.268 1.272 1.276 7.280 1.284 1.288 1.292 1.296

at at at at at at at at

100°F or 38°C electrolyte temperature 90°F or 32°C electrolyte temperature 80°F or 27°C electrolyte temperature 70°F or 21°C electrolyte temperature 60°F or 16°C electrolyte temperature 50°F or 10°C electrolyte temperature 40°F or 4°C electrolyte temperature 30°F or —1.5°C electrolyte temperature

Table B — Specific gravity — battery fully discharged 7.098 1.102 1.106 1.110 1.114 1.118 1.122 1.126

3

at at at at at at at at

100°F or 38°C electrolyte temperature 90°F or 32°C electrolyte temperature 80°F or 27°C electro/yte temperature 70°F or 21°C electrolyte temperature 60°F or 16°C electrolyte temperature 50°F or 10°C electrolyte temperature 40°F or 4°C electrolyte temperature 30°F or—1.5°C electrolyte temperature

Battery — removal and refitting

1 The battery is on a carrier fitted to the left-hand wing valance of the engine compartment. Disconnect the positive and then the negative leads from the battery terminals by undoing and removing the nuts and bolts. Note that two cables are attached to the positive terminal. 2 Unscrew and remove the bolt and plain washer that secures the battery clamp plate to the carrier. Lift away the clamp plate. Carefully

Fig. 10.2 Jumper leads connected between a fully charged and a

discharged battery (Sec 2)

Fig. 10.3 Battery clamp plate (Sec 3)

102

ere

Chapter 10

ei ei sin ese oe

lift the battery from its carrier and hold it vertically to ensure that none of the electrolyte is spilled. 3 Refitting is a direct reversal of this procedure. Note: Rep/ace the negative lead before the positive lead and smear the terminals with petroleum jelly to prevent corrosion. Never use an ordinary grease.

Alternator — general description and precautions

1

The main advantage of an alternator lies in its ability to provide a

high charge at low revolutions. Driving slowly in heavy traffic with a dynamo invariably means no charge is reaching the battery. In similar conditions even with the wiper, heater, lights and perhaps radio switched on, the alternator will ensure that a charge reaches the battery. 2 The three makes of alternator generate alternating current (ac) which is changed to a direct current (dc) by an internal diode system. They all have a regulator which limits the output to 14 volts maximum at all times. The regulator is mounted internally for Bosch and Lucas, and mounted on the inner wing for Femsa alternators. A warning lamp illuminates if the alternator fails to operate. 3. The alternator assembly basically consists of a fixed coil winding

housing, which

brush gear assembly, and together with the shielded bearing, protects the assembly against the entry of dust and moisture. 7 The regulator is set during manufacture and requires no further attention. 8 Electrical connections to external circuits are brought out to connector blades, these being grouped to accept a moulded connector socket which ensures correct connection. Detail design differences are

shown (Figs. 10.4 to 10.7). 9 Whenever the electrical system of the car is being attended to or

4

(stator) in an aluminium

Electrical system

external means of starting the engine are used, there are certain precautions that must be taken, otherwise serious and expensive damage can result. a) Always make sure that the negative terminal of the battery is earthed. /f the terminal connections are accidentally reversed or if the

b)

c)

d)

incorporates the mounting

lugs. Inside the stator, rotates a shaft wound coil (stator). The shaft is supported at each end by ball race bearings which are lubricated for life. 4 Slip rings are used to conduct current to and from the rotor field coils via two carbon brushes which bear against them. By keeping the mean diameter of the slip rings to a minimum, relative speed between brushes and rings, and hence wear, are also minimal. 5 The rotor is belt driven from the engine through a pulley keyed to the rotor shaft. A pressed steel fan adjacent to the pulley draws cooling air through the machine. This fan forms an integral part of the alternator specification. It has been designed to provide adequate airflow with a minimum of noise, and to withstand the high stresses associated with the maximum speed. Rotation is clockwise viewed on the drive end. 6 The brush gear is housed in a mouiding, screwed to the outside of the slip ring and bracket. This moulding thus encloses the slip ring and

e)

f)

5

battery

has

been

reverse-charged

the

alternator

diodes will burn out. The output terminal on the alternator marked ‘BAT’ or B+ must never be earthed but should always be connected directly to the positive terminal of the battery. Whenever the alternator is to be removed or when disconnecting the terminals of the alternator circuit, always disconnect the battery earth terminal first. The alternator must never be operated without the battery-toalternator cable connected. Should it be necessary to use a booster charger or booster battery to start the engine always double check that the negative cable is connected to negative terminal and the positive cable to positive terminal. If body repairs are being carried out using electric arc welding equipment, make sure that the a/ternator is disconnected otherwise its more delicate components will be damaged.

Alternator — routine maintenance

1 The equipment has been designed for the minimum amount of maintenance in service, the only items subject to wear being the brushes and bearings.

2 Brushes should be examined after about 75 000 miles (120 000 km) and renewed if necessary. The bearings are pre-packed with grease for life, and should not require further attention.

Fig. 10.4 Alternator types (Sec 4) A Bosch B Lucas C Femsa

103

Fig. 10.5 Exploded view of Bosch alternator (Sec 4) Fan Spacer Drive end housing KR®M™ Thrust plate

§ 6 7 8

Slip ring end bearing Slip ring end housing Brush box and regulator Rectifier (diode) pack

9 Stator 10 Slip rings 711 Rotor

12 Drive end bearing 13 Spacer 14 Pulley

Fig. 10.6 Exploded view of Lucas alternator (Sec 4)

WW Ms

Regulator Rectifier (diode) pack

5 6

Drive end bearing Drive end housing

8 9

Fan Rotor

Stator Slip ring end bearing

7

Pulley

70 Slip ring

71 Slip ring end housing 172 Surge protection diode 73 End cover

Chapter 10

104

Electrical system

Ss = =

Ne

EZ

3) © Fig. 10.7 Exploded view of Femsa alternator (Sec 4) 1 Pulley Zoran 3 Drive end housing 4 Rotor

5 6

Slip ring end bearing Stator

7

Slip ring end housing

8

Terminal block

9 Brush box 10 Rectifier (diode) pack 171° Slip rings

12 Drive end bearing 13 Thrust washer 14 Spacer

3. Check the fan belt every 3000 miles (5000 km) for correct adjustment which should be 0-5 inch (13 mm) total movement at the centre of the run between the alternator and water pump pulleys. 4 To adjust the belt tension, release the alternator mounting bolts and the adjuster link bolt, and push the alternator in towards or pull it away from, the engine.

6

Alternator — fault finding and repair

Due to the specialist knowledge and equipment required to test or service an alternator it is recommended that if the performance is suspect, the car be taken to an automobile electrician who will have

the facilities for such work. Because of this recommendation, information is limited to the inspection and renewal of the brushes. Should the alternator not charge or the system be suspect, the following points may be checked before seeking further assistance: a) Check the fan be/t tension, as described in Section 4. b) Check the battery, as described in Section 2. c) Check all electrical cable connections for cleanliness security.

7

and

Alternator — removal and refitting

1 Disconnect the battery leads. 2 Note the terminal connections at the rear of the alternator and disconnect the plug or multi-pin connector. 3 Undo and remove the alternator adjustment arm bolt, slacken the

alternator mounting bolts and push the alternator inwards towards the engine. Lift away the fan belt from the pulley. 4 Remove the remaining two mounting bolts and carefully lift the alternator away from the car. 5 Take care not to knock or drop the alternator otherwise

this can

cause irreparable damage. 6 Refitting the alternator is the reverse sequence to removal. Adjust the fan belt so that it has 0-5 inch (13 mm) total movement at the centre of the run between the alternator and water pump pulleys.

8

Alternator brushes (Bosch) — inspection, removal and refitting

1

Undo and remove the two screws, spring and plain washers that

Fig. 10.9 Bosch alternator brush box screws (Sec 8)

Chapter 10

Electrical system

105

—

secure the brush box to the rear of the brush end housing. Lift away

2

the brush box. 2 Check that the carbon brushes are able to slide smoothly in their guides without any sign of binding. Measure the length of the brushes and if they have worn down to 3 0-2 inch (5 mm) or less, they must be renewed. 4 Hold the brush wire with a pair of pliers and unsolder it from the brush box. Lift away the two brushes. 5 Insert the new brushes and check to make sure that they are free to move in their guides. If they bind, lightly polish with a very fine file.

0-3 in(7 mm) or less, they must be renewed. 3 Insert the new brushes and check to make sure that they are free to move in their guides. If they bind, lightly polish with a very fine file. 4 Refitting the brush box is the reverse sequence to removal.

6

Solder the brush wire ends to the brush box taking care that solder

is allowed to pass to the stranded wire.

7 Whenever new brushes are fitted new springs should be fitted also. 8 Refitting the brush box is the reverse sequence to removal.

9

Alternator brushes (Lucas) — inspection, removal and refitting

11

Measure the length of the brushes and if they have worn down to

Starter motor — general description

The starter motor fitted is of Lucas manufacture, and is of the inertia type. The unit has a series wound, four pole, four brush motor. The brushgear is fully insulated, and comprises wedge shaped brushes actuated by coil springs onto the commutator face. The main casing has two independently fixed end plates. The commutator end plate screws into the main body, while the drive end plate screws into the pole pieces. Access to the brushes is by removing the commutator end plate. The drive pinion fitted to the starter motor runs on a screwed

sleeve with an internal spline. This sleeve, the pinion and the cushion 1 Refer to Fig. 10.6 and undo and remove the two screws that hold the end cover. Lift away the end cover. 2 Remove the brush retaining screws and withdraw the brushes from the brush box. 3 Measure the length of the brushes and if they have worn down to O-2 in (5 mm) or less, they must be renewed. 4 Insert the new brushes and check to make sure that they are free to move in their guides. If they bind, lightly polish with a very fine file. 5 Reassemble in the reverse order of dismantling. Make sure that leads which may have been connected to any of the screws are reconnected correctly.

spring are retained on the shaft by a C-clip.

12

Starter motor — testing on engine

1 If the starter motor fails to operate, check the condition of the battery by turning on the headlamps. If they glow brightly for several

seconds and then gradually dim, the battery is in a discharged condition. 2 If the headlights continue to glow brightly and it is obvious that the battery is in good condition, then check the tightness of the battery wiring connections (and in particular the earth lead from the battery terminal to its connection on the body frame). If the positive terminal

10

Alternator brushes (Femsa) — inspection, removal and refitting

on the battery becomes hot when an attempt is made to work the starter this is a sure sign of a poor connection on the battery terminal.

1

Disconnect

To rectify, remove the terminal, clean the mating faces thoroughly and reconnect. Check the connections on the rear of the wing located

the wire from the brush box at the rear of the alter-

nator, remove the retaining screw and withdraw the brush box.

Fig. 10.10 Brush box components (Bosch alternator) (Sec 8)

A Brushes

B Springs

C Brush box

Fig. 10.13 Brush components (Femsa alternator) (Sec 10) A

Fig. 10.12

Femsa

alternator

brush

box (A) retaining screws

and lead (C) (Sec 10)

(B)

Brushes

B Brush box

106

Fig. 10.14 Exploded view of Lucas starter motor (Sec 11) 71 2 3 4 5 6 7

Brushes Brushbox moulding

Commutatorend plate Thrust washer Commutator Armature Main casing

8

Pole piece retaining screw 9 Pole piece 10 Field winding 11 Drive end plate 12 Drive end plate retaining screws

13 C-clip 14 Spring cup

715 16 17 18

Cushion spring Cushion washer Screwed sleeve Anti-drift spring

19 Drive pinion

87 nd Se RASS A(\n

RTE,

© Y

0 Fig. 10.15 Starter circuit (Sec 12)

A Battery B Ignition switch C Solenoid switch main contacts D Solenoid E Starter motor terminal

F Field winding

G Starter motor H Armature J Distributor K Ignition coil L Ignition switch terminal M Ballast resistor

Chapter 10

Electrical system

107

eee

Starter solenoid. Check the wiring with a voltmeter or test lamp for breaks or shorts. 3 Check the starter solenoid switch by bridging the terminals with a heavy cable. If the starter motor then operates, the switch is faulty. 4 If the battery is fully charged, the wiring in order, the starter/ignition switch working and the starter motor still fails to operate, then it will have to be removed from the car for examination. Before this is done, ensure that the starter motor pinion has not jammed in mesh with the flywheel by engaging a gear and rocking the car to-and-fro. This should free the pinion if it is stuck in mesh with the flywheel teeth.

13 1.

SS...

only sufficiently far to allow access then be disconnected to enable drawn.

=

to the brush leads which should

the end plate to be completely with-

3 Remove the nut, washer and insulator from the terminal stud; push the stud and the second insulator through the commutator end plate, then remove the stud and brushes. 4 The brush box can only be removed if the two securing rivets are first drilled out. 5 The drive pinion can be dismantled if the heavy spring is first compressed so that the circlip is exposed and can be extracted. A suitable compressor will be required to compress the spring; do not use makeshift methods as they can be dangerous.

Starter motor — removal and refitting

6

Disconnect the battery leads.

be cut leaving 0-25 in (6 mm) attached to the field coils. Discard the old brushes. Solder new brushes to the flexible connector stubs. Check that the new brushes move freely in their holders (Fig. 10.19). 7 The main terminal stud and its two brushes are available as a unit.

2 Disconnect the lead from the terminal on the starter motor. 3 Unscrew and remove the starter motor mounting bolts, and withdraw the starter motor from the clutch bellhousing. 4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

8

To renew the field winding brushes, their flexible connectors must

If cleaning the commutator with petrol fails to remove all the burnt

areas and spots, carefully polish it with glass paper. 9 If the commutator is very badly worn, remove the drive gear (if still in place on the armature), and mount the armature in a lathe. With the

14

Starter motor — overhaul

1 Secure the starter motor in the jaws of a vice, and unscrew and remove the two screws which hold the drive end plate to the yoke (Fig.

10.16.) 2 Pull off the end cap from the armature shaft, then extract the four commutator end plate screws and tap the plate free from the yoke but

Fig. 10.16 Extracting starter drive end plate screws (Sec 14) A

Screw

lathe turning at high speed take a very fine cut out of the commutator and finish the surface by polishing with glass paper. Note: Do not undercut the insulators between the commutator segments. The minimum commutator thickness must never be less than 0.08 in (2 mm). 10 Armature insulation can be checked by connecting a 15W test lamp between a commutator segment and the armature shaft but as

Fig. 10.17

Removing

commutator

end plate from starter motor

yoke (Sec 14) A_ Field winding brushes

B Screwdriver

Fig. 10.19 Cutting starter motor field winding brush leads (Sec 14)

Fig. 10.18 Starter motor brushes and terminal stud (Sec 14) A A

Insulator

B

Terminal stud

C Brushes

Cutters

B Short lead C Long lead D Cutting point 0.25 in (6.0 mm) from conductor

Chapter 10

108

Electrical system

the test voltage should be 110V ac, unless the necessary transformer

is available, this work should be left to your dealer.

11 With the starter motor dismantled, test the four field coils for an open circuit. Connect a 12 volt battery with a 12 volt bulb in one of the leads between the field terminal post and the tapping point of the field coils to which the brushes are connected. An open circuit is proved by

the bulb not lighting. 12 If the bulb lights, it does not necessarily mean that the field coils are in order, as there is a possibility that one of the coils could be earthed to the starter yoke or pole shoes. To check this, remove the lead from the brush connector and place it against a clean portion of

the starter yoke. If the bulb lights, then the field coils are earthing. Replacement

of the field coils calls for the use of a wheel-operated

screwdriver,

a soldering iron, caulking and riveting operations and is

beyond the scope of the majority of owners. The starter yoke should be

taken to a reputable electrical engineering works for new field coils to be fitted. Alternatively purchase an exchange starter motor. 13 If the armature is damaged this will be evident after visual inspec-

tion. Look for signs of burning, discolouration, and for conductors that

Fig.

10.20

have lifted away from the commutator. 14 With the starter motor stripped down, check the condition of the bushes. They should be renewed when they are sufficiently worn to allow visible side movement.of the armature shaft. 15 The old bushes are simply driven out with a suitable drift and the new bushes inserted by the same method. As the bushes are of the phosphor bronze type it is essential that they are allowed to stand in engine oil for at least 24 hours before fitting. If time does not allow, place the bushes in oil at 100°C (212°F) for 2 hours. 16 Reassembly is a reversal of dismantling but note that the alignment notches on the drive end plate and the yoke must engage

Starter

motor yoke and drive notches (Sec 14)

end

plate alignment

correctly. 15

Fuses

1 A fuse block is mounted on the right-hand inner wing panel, under a protective cover (photo). 2 The fuses, and their respective circuits are as follows:

Fuse’ 1

Rating 16 amp

2 3

8 amp 8 amp

4 5 6 a

8 8 8 8

amp amp amp amp

Circuit protected Cigarette lighter, clock, interior light(s). hazard flashers, horn, glove compartment light. LH side and tail light.

RH side and tail light, number plate light(s), instrument panel lights. Main beam headlights. Dipped beam headlights. Wiper motor, washer motor, reversing lights. Direction indicators, stop lights, instrument

15.1 Fuse block showing inner and outer covers

cluster, heater motor.

3 Two further fuses are located beneath the facia. These are a 16 amp fuse for the heated rear window, located within the relay (Section

15), and a 2 amp (slow blow) fuse in the radio supply lead. 4 Before any fuse that has blown is renewed, it is important to find the cause of the trouble and for it to be rectified, as a fuse acts as a safety device and protects the electrical system against expensive

damage should a fault occur. 16

Relays — renewal

1 There are two relays incorporated in the electrical system. One for the heated rear window and the other for the indicator and hazard flashers.

Heated rear window relay 2

This relay is located on the support bracket for the bonnet release

lever which is located under the instrument panel (Fig. 10.21). 3 Access to the relay can be facilitated if the instrument panel's lower insulation panel is first removed and the flasher unit extracted

from its securing clip.

Indicator and hazard flasher relay 4 This relay is located on the support bracket for the bonnet release lever which is located under the instrument panel.

Fig. 10.21

Relays mounted on bonnet lock remote control bracket (Sec 16)

A Heated rear window relay securing screws B Direction indicator flasher relay (held by spring clip)

Chapter 10

Electrical system

109

—

5 If the flasher unit works twice as fast as usual when indicating either right or left turns, this is an indication that there is a broken filament in the front or rear indicator bulb on the side operating too quickly. 6 If the

external

flashers

are

working,

but

the

internal

flasher

Front direction indicator lamps 7 8

Extract the two lens securing screws and remove the lens. Renew the bulb, which is of the bayonet fixing type. 9 When refitting the lens, make sure that the sealing gasket is in good order.

warning light has ceased to function, check the filament of the warning bulb and renew as necessary.

7 With the ignition switched on, check that the current is reaching the flasher unit by connecting a voltmeter between the ‘plug’ terminal and earth. If it is found that current is reaching the unit, connect the two flasher unit terminals together and operate the direction indicator switch. If one of the flasher warning lights comes on this proves that the flasher unit itself is at fault and must be renewed as it is not possible to dismantle and repair it. 8 Access to the relay can be facilitated if the instrument panel's lower insulation panel is first removed. The relay can then be pulled from its securing clip.

17

Bulbs —renewal

Open the bonnet

10 Open the luggage boot lid and pull off the plastic cover from the lamp cluster (Fig. 10.24). 11. 12

Unclip the bulb retaining plate. Remove the appropriate bulb; each one is of the bayonet-fixing

type.

Rear number plate lamp 13 Reach under the rear bumper and press the two spring clips on the lamp assembly inwards. 14 Withdraw the lamp assembly. 15 Pull the lens clear of the lamp body. 16 Renew the bulb, which is of the bayonet fixing type.

Interior lamp

Headlamps and parking lamps 1

Rear lamp cluster

and from the rear of the headlamp, detach the

multi-pin plug (1) and the flexible cap (2) (Fig. 10.22). 2 Remove the bulb retaining ring (4) by depressing and turning it slightly in an anti-clockwise direction. 3 Withdraw the bulb. 4 Install the new bulb by reversing the removal operations. 5 Do not finger halogen type bulbs but if this happens inadvertently, wipe the glass area of the bulb with a cloth soaked in methylated spirit before switching on the lamp for the first time. 6 The parking lamp bulb may be renewed by turning its holder in an anti-clockwise direction, and removing it from the headlamp reflector.

Fig. 10.22 Headlamp bulb fitting (Sec 17) 4 Retaining ring

1 Multiplug 2 Plastic cap

17 Place 18 Prise extracted 19 Refit

the lamp switch in its central position. the lens assembly from its location; the bulb can then be from its clips. by reversing the removal operations.

18

Headlamp assembly — removal and refitting

1 2 3

Ifthe headlamp bulb only is to be removed, refer to Section 16. Open the bonnet and for safety reasons, disconnect the battery. Remove the single headlamp retaining screw, unclip the adjuster

bracket and lift the assembly forwards. 4

Pull the multi-plug from the rear and remove the side lamp bulb by

Fig. 10.23 Front direction indicator (Sec 17) 7 Lens

5 Parking lamp bulb

3 Bulb

2 Bulb

Fig. 10.24 Rear lampcluster (Sec. 17) 1 Plastic cover

4 Reversing lamp

2 Retaining plate 3 Stop/tail

5 Direction indicator

A

D Fig. 10.25 Rear number plate lamp (Sec. 17) A

Lamp body

B Bulb C Gasket

D Lens E Lens frame

Fig. 10.26 Interior lamp withdrawn (Sec. 17)

110

Chapter 10

se

Electrical system

twisting and pulling clear. 5 Remove the headlamp bulb and unclip the headlamp adjusters and the lower location guide. 6 Refitting is a reversal of this procedure, but ensure that the two lower adjuster guides are located with the respective body lugs.

19

Headlamps — alignment

1 Where possible, have the headlamp beams checked annually in the autumn by your dealer on optical beam setting equipment. Where this is not possible, or in an emergency, the following procedure may be used.

2

Position the car on level ground, 10 ft (3 m) from a wall or screen

Fa

during the hours of darkness. The wall or board must be at right angles

to the centre-line of the car (Fig. 10.28). 3.

Draw a vertical line on the board in line with the centre-line of the

car. 4

Bounce

the car on its suspension

to ensure correct settlement,

then measure the height between the ground and the centre of the lamps. 5 Measure the distance between the centres of the lamps to be adjusted, and mark the board as shown in the illustration.

Fig.

10.27

Headlamp screws: A Retaining screw B bracket and upper adjustment screw (Sec. 18)

O Fig. 10.28 Headlamp beam alignment diagram (Sec. 19) A Distance between light centres B Dipped beam pattern H Height from ground to headlight centre

X 3.0 in(76 mm) OO Vehicle centre line

6 With the headlights on main beam, cover the other lamps to prevent glare. By careful adjustment of the two adjusters at the rear of the headlamp assembly, set the horizontal position until point C is at the cross on the aiming board. Adjust the vertical light position so that the top of the beam pattern just touches the dotted line.

20

Horn - fault tracing and rectification

1 If the horn works badly or fails completely, first check the wiring leading to the horn for short circuits and broken or loose connections. Also check that the horn is firmly secured and that there is nothing lying on the horn body. 2 Using a test lamp, check the wiring to the number 1 fuse on the fuse box located in the engine compartment. Check that the fuse has not blown. 3 If the fault is an internal one it will be necessary to obtain a replacement horn.

Fig. 10.29 Headlamp adjusting screws (Sec. 19)

1 Vertical adjuster

2 Horizontal adjuster

Locating

Chapter 10 Electrical system IF 4 To remove the horn, disconnect the battery and remove the radiator grille. 5 Detach the lead at the rear of the horn and then undo and remove the retaining bolt, spring, horn bracket and star washer. 6 Refitting the horn is the reverse sequence to removal.

21

23

Steering column switches — removal and refitting

1 2

Open the bonnet and for safety reasons, disconnect the battery. Unscrew the lower shroud from the steering column and remove

it. Then unclip the upper half. 3. Detach the multi-pin plugs from the underside of the switch. 4 Undo and remove the two screws and shakeproof washers located

Ignition switch and lock — removal and refitting

1. The ignition switch can be removed by unscrewing the lower dash trim panel in the steering column area, and lowering the panel.

on the lever side of the switch, and detach the switch assembly from the steering column. 5 Refitting the switch is the reverse sequence to removal.

2 The switch is then removed by unscrewing the two screws, and disconnecting the multi-plug. 3 Toremove the steering lock, refer to Chapter 11.

22

Instrument panel switches — removal and refitting

caF

1 The switches are removed from the instrument panel by inserting a screwdriver at their lower edge and then levering them from their locations. Note: Use a pad of suitable material to prevent damage to the instrument panel. 2 Withdraw the switch far enough to permit the multi-plug to be disconnected. 3. To refit the switch, connect the mutli-plug and push the switch firmly into its location. 4 A faulty indicator bulb in the switch

can be renewed

pe ra f i s &

simply by

withdrawing the bulb holder.

Fig. 10.30 Location of horn (Sec. 20) A

Fig. 10.31 A

Power feed wire

Ignition switch and steering column lock (Sec. 21)

Multi-plug

B Retaining screws

C Switch D

Lock

Fig. 10.32 Removing an instrument panel switch (Sec. 22)

Fig. 10.33 Instrument panel switch (Sec. 22) A Lamp bulb and holder B Switch body

111

Fig. 10.34 Removing steering column shroud (Sec. 23)

112

Chapter 10

Electrical system

24

Courtesy lamp switch — removal and refitting

1. Disconnect the battery. 2 Open the door to its fullest extent and extract the securing screw from the switch. 3. Pull the switch from the door pillar and disconnect the lead from the switch terminal. Tape the end of the wiring harness to the door pillar in case it falls into the interior of the pillar while the switch is disconnected. 4 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but make sure that the waterexcluding gasket is in good condition.

25

Speedometer cable — removal and refitting

1 Working under the car using a pair of circlip pliers, remove the circlip that secures the speedometer cable to the gearbox extension

Fig. 10.35 Steering column horn and light switch (Sec. 23)

housing and withdraw the speedometer cable. 2

A Switch securing bolts

C Multi-plug

B Multi-plug

D Switch

Remove the clip that secures the speedometer outer cable to the

bulkhead.

3

Working

under

the

facia

depress

the

knurled

pad

on

the

speedometer cable ferrule and pull the cable from the speedometer

head (Fig. 10.39). 4

Remove the grommet that seals the cable to the bulkhead. With-

draw the speedometer cable. 5 Refitting the speedometer cable is the reverse sequence to removal. 6 It is possible to remove the inner cable from the outer cable whilst

still attached to the car. Follow the instructions in paragraphs 1 and 3 and pull the inner cable from the outer cable. 7 When inserting the inner cable, apply a little grease to the bottom two-thirds of its length.

Fig. 10.36 Steering column wash and wiper switch (Sec. 23)

A_ Switch securing bolts B Earthleaa

C Switch D Multi-plug

24)

Fig. 10.38 Speedometer cable connection to gearbox (Sec 25)

A Cable B Securing circlip

Fig. 10.39 Speedometer cable connection to speedometer head

Chapter 10

26

Electrical system

Instrument panel — removal and refitting

1. Open the bonnet and disconnect the battery leads. 2 Unscrew the lower shroud from the steering column and remove it; then unclip the upper half. 3. Pull off the instrument panel light switch knob and the two radio control knobs (where fitted). 4 Remove the six countersunk screws which retain the instrument cluster and its bezel. 5 Holding the bezel assembly square to the dashpanel, pull it forward far enough to allow disconnection of the two multi-connectors at the back of the instruments; also disconnect the leads from the hazard flasher switch and the heated rear window switch. 6 Disconnect the speedometer cable from the speedometer as described in the preceding Section 25 and then remove the instrument cluster and bezel. 7 The instruments, warning light bulbs and their holders, and the instrument voltage stabilizer and the printed circuit can now all be removed from the instrument assembly. 8 Refitting is a reversal of removal. 27

113

then slide the blade up the arm until it clears the U-shaped hook and can be removed (Fig. 10.43). 4 To remove the rubber insert, extract the two metal strips from within the rubber and pull the rubber from the holder.

5

Fit the new rubber insert, then install the two metal strips making

sure that the cut-outs face inwards. 6 Refit the blade assembly to the arm home in the U-shaped hook. a

28

making sure that it snaps

eeeeUUEEETEEEE EEEnnEEIIEEEEE EERE

EEE

Windscreen wiper arms — removal and refitting

1 Before removing the wiper arm, make sure that the wipers have been switched off by means of the wiper switch and not the ignition switch so that they are in their normal parked position.

Windscreen wiper blades — removal and refitting

1 Whenever the wiper blades fail to wipe cleanly without streaks, their rubber inserts should be renewed. 2 To remove the blade assembly, pull the wiper arm away from the windscreen so that it locks in position. 3 Depress the spring clip (in the direction of the large arrow) and

a

Fig. 10.41 Fuel contents and water temperature gauge securing nuts. Note instrument voltage stabiliser (Sec. 26)

Fig. 10.43 Wiper blade attachment to arm (Sec. 27)

Fig. 10.42 Typical instrument panel bulb holders (A) and printed

circuit locating pegs (B) (Sec. 26)

Fig. 10.44 Wiper blade metal inserts (Sec. 27)

Chapter 10

114

Electrical system

2 Mark the position of the wiper blade on the screen by running a piece of masking tape along the edge of the blade so that it sticks to the glass and will provide a useful guide to positioning the arm when refitting takes place.

3 Prise the plastic cap from the driving spindle nut cover, unscrew the nut, remove the washer and pull off the wiper arm. On some models a hinged type plastic cover is used to cover the spindle nut. 4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

29

Wiper motor and linkage — removal and refitting

1. For safety reasons disconnect the battery. Undo and remove the fixing screw and unclip the plastic wiper motor cover. Lift away the cover (photo). 2 Remove the five bolts and lift the wiper linkage cover plate clear. Note that one of these bolts secures the motor earth lead (Fig. 10.46). 3 Undo and remove the bolts that secure the wiper assembly mounting bracket to the scuttle panel; detach the multi-pin plugs from the motor. 4 Carefully lever off the wiper system linkage from the windscreen wiper motor. Undo and remove the three bolts and spring washers that secure the motor to the bracket assembly. 5 Release, but do not remove, the bolts that secure the heater unit and draw the heater unit box to one side just sufficiently for the wiper motor and bracket assembly to be withdrawn. 6 Remove the wiper arms and blades. 7 Carefully unscrew the spindle nuts and washers and, working within the engine compartment, lift away the wiper linkage. 8 Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal. Lubricate all moving parts with the exception of the wiper spindles with engine oil.

Fig. 10.45 Wiper arm driving spindle external components 28) A Plastic cap E Nut B Nut and washer C Wiper arm D Nut cover

(Sec.

F Washer G Nylon seal H Spindle

Fig. 10.46 Wiper motor earth lead (Sec. 29)

Fig. 10.48 Wiper arm

driving spindle internal components

29) A Circlip B Shims C Bush Fig. 10.47 Removing wiper motor bracket screws (Sec. 29)

D Wave washer E Pivot shaft F Linkage

(Sec.

Chapter 10

Electrical system

Fig. 10.49 Windscreen wiper motor components (Sec. 30) A B

115

Fig. 10.50 Windscreen washer fluid reservoir

C Gear/shaft assembly

Crankarm Gearcase

D

Cover

Fig. 10.52

Removing

windscreen

washer

jet nozzle

mounting

plates

Fig. 10.51

30

Removing washer pump from reservoir

Wiper motor— dismantling, inspection and reassembly

1 With the motor removed, extract the two crosshead screws that secure the gearbox cover-plate to the gearbox. 2 Undo and remove the nut that secures the crankarm to the gear shaft. Lift away the crankarm, wave and plain washers. Note the position of the arm relative to the ‘park’ cut-out segment of the gear contact plate. 3 Release the spring clips that secure the case and armature to the gearbox. Lift away the case and armature. 4 Wipe away all the grease from inside the gearbox and, using a pair of circlip pliers, remove the circlip that secures the gear to the shaft. Separate the gear from the shaft. 5 Undo and remove the screw that secures the brush mounting plate; detach the wiring loom plug and remove the brushes. 6 Clean all parts, then inspect the gears and brushes for wear or

damage. Refit the spindle and check for wear in its bush in the gearbox body. Obtain new parts as necessary. 7 Reassembly is the reverse sequence to dismantling. Pack the gearbox with grease.

31

Windscreen washer

1. The windscreen washer reservoir is located within the engine compartment and can be removed if the fluid pipe is first disconnected from the pump outlet and the multi-pin plug detached. 2 Unscrew the three mounting screws and lift the reservoir away. 3 The washer pump is clipped into position in the recess in the reservoir. Note how the inlet nozzle passes through the rubber

grommet (Fig. 10.51). 4 The washer nozzles are secured to the engine compartment rear bulkhead with self-tapping screws. Adjustment of the jet pattern on the screen can be carried out by extracting the screws and withdrawing the nozzles, then bending the retaining plate as necessary.

32

Radios and tape players — installation (general)

A radio or tape player is an expensive item to buy, and will only give its best performance if fitted properly. It is useless to expect concert hall performance from a unit that is suspended from the dashpanel by string with its speaker resting on the back seat or parcel shelf! If you do not wish to do the installation yourself there are many in-car entertainment specialists who can do the fitting for you. Make sure the unit purchased is of the same polarity as the vehicle..Ensure that units with adjustable polarity are correctly set before commencing installation. It is difficult to give specific information with regard to fitting, as final positioning of the radio/tape player, speakers and aerial is entirely a matter of personal preference. However, the following paragraphs give guidelines to follow, which are relevant to all installations.

Radios Most radios are a standardised size of 7 inches wide, by 2 inches deep — this ensures that they will fit into the radio aperture provided in most cars. If your car does not have such an aperture, then the radio must be fitted in a suitable position either in, or beneath, the dashpanel. Alternatively, a special console can be purchased which will fit between

the dashpanel

and the floor, or on the transmission

tunnel.

116 ita

Chapter 10

Electrical system

These consoles can also be used for additional switches and instru-

mentation if required. Where no radio aperture is provided the following points should be borne in mind before deciding exactly where to fit the unit.

a) The unit must be within easy reach of the driver wearing a seatbelt. b) The unit must not be mounted in clase proximity to a tachometer, the ignition switch and its wiring, or the flasher unit and associated wiring. c) The unit must be mounted within reach of the aerial lead, and in such a place that the aerial lead will not have to be routed near the components detailed in the preceding paragraph ‘b’. d) The unit should not be positioned in a place where it might cause injury to the car occupants in an accident; for instance, under the dashpanel above the driver's or passenger's legs. e) The unit must be fitted really securely.

Some radios will have mounting brackets provided together with instructions: others will need to be fitted using drilled and slotted metal strips, bent to form mounting brackets — these strips are available from most accessory stores. The unit must be properly earthed, by fitting a separate earth lead between the casing of the radio and the vehicle frame. Use the radio manufacturer's instructions when wiring the radio into the vehicle’s electrical system. If no instructions are available, refer to the relevant wiring diagram to find the location of the radio ‘feed’ connection in the vehicle's wiring circuit. A 1-2 amp ‘in-line’ fuse must be fitted in the radio’s ‘feed’ wire — a choke may also be necessary (see next Section). The type of aerial used, and its fitted position is a matter of personal preference. In general the taller the aerial, the better the reception. It is best to fit a fully retractable aerial — especially, if a mechanical car-wash is used or if you live in an area where cars tend to be vandalised. In this respect electric aerials which are raised and lowered automatically when switching the radio on or off, are convenient, but are more likely to give trouble than the manual type.

When choosing a site for the aerial the following points should be considered: a) The aerial lead should be as short as possible; this means that the aerial should preferably be mounted at the front of the vehicle.

b) The aerial must be mounted as far away from the distributor and HT leads as possible. c) The part of the aerial which protrudes beneath the mounting point must not foul the roadwheels, or anything else. d) If possible the aerial should be positioned so that the coaxial lead does not have to be routed through the engine compartment. e) The plane of the panel on which the aerial is mounted should not be so steeply angled that the aerial cannot be mounted vertically (in relation to the ‘end-on’ aspect of the vehicle). Most aerials have a small amount of adjustment available. Having decided on a mounting position, a relatively large hole will have to be made in the panel. The exact size of the hole will depend upon the specific aerial being fitted although, generally, the hole

required is of 3 inch diameter. On metal bodied cars, a ‘tank-cutter’ of the relevant diameter is the best tool to be used for making the hole. This tool needs a small diameter pilot hole drilled through the panel, through which, the tool clamping bolt is inserted. When the hole has been made, the raw edges should be de-burred with a file and then painted, to prevent corrosion. Fit the aerial according to the manufacturer's instructions. If the aerial is very tall, or if it protrudes beneath the mounting panel for a

considerable distance, it is a good idea to fit a stay between the aerial and the vehicle frame. This stay can be manufactured from the slotted and drilled metal strips previously mentioned. The stay should be securely screwed or bolted in place. For best reception it is advisable to fit an earth lead between the aerial body and the vehicle frame — this is essential on fibreglass bodied vehicles. It will probably be necessary to drill one or two holes through bodywork panels in order to feed the aerial lead into the interior of the vehicle. Where this is the case ensure that the holes are fitted with rubber grommets to protect the cable, and to stop possible entry of

water.

Positioning and fitting of the speaker depends mainly on its type. Generally, the speaker is designed to fit directly into the aperture already provided in the vehicle (usually in the shelf behind the rear seats, or in the top of the dashpanel). Where this is the case, fitting the speaker is just a matter of removing the protective grille from the aperture, and screwing or bolting the speaker in place. Take great care not to damage the speaker diaphragm whilst doing this. It is a good idea to fit a gasket between the speaker frame and the mounting panel in order to prevent vibration - some speakers will already have such a gasket fitted. If a pod-type speaker was supplied with the radio, the best acoustic results will normally be obtained by mounting it on the shelf behind the rear seat. The pod can be secured to the mounting panel with self-tapping screws.

When connecting a rear-mounted speaker to the radio, the wires should be routed through the vehicle beneath the carpets or floor mats — preferably through the middle, or along the side of the floorpan, where they will not be trodden on by passengers. Make the relevant connections as directed by the radio manufacturer. By now you will have several yards of additional wiring in the car; use PVC tape to secure this wiring out of harm’s way. Do not leave electrical leads dangling. Ensure that all new electrical connections are properly made (wires twisted together will not do) and completely

secure. The radio should now be working, but before you pack away your tools it will be necessary to ‘trim’ the radio to the aerial. Foilow the radio manufacturer's instructions regarding this adjustment.

Tape players Fitting instructions for both cartridge and cassette stereo tape players are the same and in general the same rules apply as when fitting a radio. Tape players are not usually prone to electrical interference like radios — although it can occur — so positioning is not so critical. If possible the player should be mounted on an ‘even-keel’. Also, it must be possible for a driver wearing a seatbelt to reach the unit in order to change, or turn over, tapes. For the best results from speakers designed to be recessed into a panel, mount them so that the back of the speaker protrudes into an enclosed chamber within the vehicle (eg door interiors or the boot cavity). To fit recessed-type speakers in the front doors first check that there is sufficient room to mount the speaker in each door without it fouling the latch or window winding mechanism. Hold the speaker against the skin of the door, and draw a line around the periphery of the speaker. With

the speaker removed

draw

a second

cutting-line,

within the first, to allow enough room for the entry of the speaker back but at the same time providing a broad seat for the speaker flange.

When you are sure that the cutting-line is correct, drill a series of holes around its periphery. Pass a hacksaw blade through one of the holes and then cut through the metal between the holes until the centre section of the panel falls out. De-burr the edges of the hole and then paint the raw metal to prevent corrosion. Cut a corresponding hole in the door trim panel, ensuring that it will be completely covered by the speaker grille. Now

drill a hole in the door edge and a corresponding hole in the door surround. These holes are to feed the speaker leads through, so fit grom-

mets. Pass the speaker leads through the door trim, door skin and out through the holes in the side of the door and door surround. Refit the door trim panel and then secure the speaker to the door using selftapping screws. Note: /f the speaker is fitted with a shield to prevent water dripping on it, ensure that this shield is at the top. Pod-type speakers can be fastened to the shelf behind the rear seat, or anywhere else offering a corresponding mounting point on each side of the car. If the pod speakers are mounted on each side of the shelf behind the rear seat, it is a good idea to drill several large diameter holes through to the boot cavity, beneath each speaker— this will improve the sound reproduction. Pod speakers sometimes offer a better reproduction quality if they face the rear window — which then acts as a reflector — so it is worthwhile experimenting before finally fixing the speakers. —_e—oeoororor

ee ea

33 Radios and tape players — suppression (general) ee To eliminate buzzes and other unwanted

of

interference

noises costs very little

Chapter 10

Electrical system

117

eS

and is not as difficult as sometimes thought. With a modicum of common sense and patience and following the instructions in the following paragraphs, interference can be virtually eliminated.

The ignition system itself will seldom cause interference these days as carbon-cored HT leads and resistor-type spark plugs are fitted as standard equipment. However,

a 1-0 mfd capacitor can be connected

between

earth

and the positive (+) terminal of the coil if a ‘tick tick’ sound can be heard over the speaker (Fig. 10.53). At this stage it is advisable to check that the radio and aerial are well earthed, and to see that the aerial plug is pushed well into the set and that the radio is properly trimmed (see preceding Section). In addition, check that the wire which supplies the power to the set is as short

as possible and does not wander all over the vehicle. At this stage it is a good idea to check that the fuse is of the correct rating. For most sets this will be about 1 to 2 amps. At this point the more usual causes of interference have been suppressed. If the problem still exists, a look at the cause of interference may help to pinpoint the component generating the stray electrical discharges. The radio picks up electromagnetic waves in the air; now some are made by regular broadcasters, and some, which we do not want, are made by the car itself. The home made signals are produced by stray electrical discharges floating around in the car. Common producers of

TO IGNITION SWITCH

TO DISTRIBUTOR

TO CONTACT BREAKER

COIL

these signals are electric motors, ie, the windscreen wipers, electric screen washers, electric window winders, heater fan or an electric aerial if fitted. Other sources of interference are flashing turn signals and instruments. The remedy for these cases is shown in Fig. 10.54 for an electric motor whose interference is not too bad and Fig. 10.55 for instrument suppression. Turn signals are not normally suppressed. In recent years, radio manufacturers have included in the line (live) of the radio, in addition to the fuse, an in-line choke. If your circuit lacks one of these, put one in as shown in Fig. 10.56.

All the foregoing components are available from radio stores or accessory shops. If you have an electric clock fitted this should be suppressed by connecting a 0-5 mfd capacitor directly across it as shown for a motor. lf after all this, you are still experiencing radio interference, first assess how bad it is, for the human ear can filter out unobtrusive unwanted noises quite easily. But if you are still adamant about eradicating the noise, then continue. As a first step, a few ‘experts’ seem to favour a screen between the radio and the engine. This is OK as far as it goes — literally! — for the whole set is screened anyway and if interference can get past that then a small piece of aluminium is not going to stop it. A more sensible way of screening is to discover if interference is

coming down the wires. First, take the live lead; interference can get between the set and the choke (hence the reason for keeping the wires short). One remedy here is to screen the wire and this is done by buying screened wire and fitting that. The loudspeaker lead could be screened also to prevent pick-up getting back to the radio although this is unlikely. Without doubt, the worst source of radio interference comes from the ignition HT leads, even if they have been suppressed. The ideal way of suppressing these is to slide screening tubes over the leads themselves. As this is impractical, we can place an aluminium shield over the majority of the lead areas. In a vee- or twin-cam engine this is relatively easy but for a straight engine, the results are not particularly good. Now for the really impossible cases, here are a few tips to try out. When metal comes into contact with metal, an electrical disturbance is caused which is why good clean connections are essential. To remove interference due to overlapping or butting panels you must bridge the join with a wide braided earth strap (like that from the frame to the engine/transmission). The most common moving parts that could create noise and should be strapped are, in order of importance:

a) Silencer to frame b) Exhaust pipe to engine block and frame c) Air cleaner to frame

Fig. 10.53 Ignition coil suppressed against radio interference

d) Front and rear bumpers to frame

e) Steering column to frame f) Bonnet and boot lids to frame g) Hood frame to bodyframe on soft tops

0.25uf—0.5uf

These faults are most pronounced when (1) the engine is idling, (2) labouring under load. Although the moving parts are already connected with nuts, bolts, etc, these do tend to rust and corrode, thus

Live ———_0- O_O FUSE

SWITCH

+! 5387

(IF FITTED)

MOTOR

Fig. 10.54 Electric motor suppressed against radio interference

KEEP THIS LEAD AS SHORT AS POSSIBLE

OPTIONAL CAPACITOR (GIVES MARGINAL IMPROVEMENT)

=

FUSE

0.25uf—0.5uf

ete

x

2

CONTROL

Fig.

10.55

Gauges

GAUGE

FUEL/TEMPERATURE and

control

suppressed against radio interference

units

/

IN LINE CHOKE (SEE TEXT)

LIVE

Fig. 10.56

Location of in-line choke fitted to radio power lead

>

LIVE

Chapter 10

118

Electrical system de

cause interference. creating a high resistance interference source. If you have a ragged sounding pulse when mobile, this could SSS SS SSS SS eee be wheel or tyre static. This can be cured by buying some anti-staticDee gauges temperature water and contents Fuel 34 powder and sprinkling inside the tyres. (ji If the interference takes the shape of a high pitched screeching Incorrect readings on either of these instruments may be due to 1 noise that changes its note when the car is in motion and only comes connecting wiring between the gauge and the sender unit. loose now and then, this could be related to the aerial, especially if it is of the |f this is checked and found to be in order, the individual instru2 telescopic or whip type. This source can be cured quite simply by ments are accessible after removal of the instrument panel as pushing a small rubber ball on top of the aerial as this breaks the described in Section 26. electrical field before it can form; but it would be much better to buy If both the fuel contents and the water temperature gauges 3 yourself a new aerial of a reputable brand. If, on the other hand, you become faulty at the same time, suspect the instrument voltage are getting a loud rushing sound every time you brake, then this is stabiliser which is located on the rear of the instrument cluster. brake static. This effect is most prominent on hot dry days and is cured

only by fitting a special kit, which is quite expensive. LT a In conclusion, it is pointed out that it is relatively easy, and 35 Oil pressure warning lamp therefore, cheap, to eliminate 95 per cent of all noise, but to eliminate the final 5 per cent is time and money consuming. It is up to the pe 1 Whenever the ignition is switched on, check that the oil pressure individual to decide if it is worth it. Please remember also, that you warning light comes on and goes out as soon as the engine has cannot get a concert hall performance out of a cheap radio. started. If it does not, check the connecting leads to the sender switch Finally, cassette and eight track players are not usually affected by and to the warning lamp, then check the bulb in the warning lamp. electrical noise but in very bad cases, the best remedies are the first 2 If the warning lamp comes on while driving the car, switch off the three suggestions plus using a 3 — 5 amp choke in the ‘live’ line and in engine immediately until the cause is found and rectified. incurable cases screen the live and speaker wires. 3 This may be due to low oil level or a severe leak in the engine Note: /f your car is fitted with electronic ignition, then it is not lubrication system. If the engine is known to be in good mechanical recommended that either the spark plug resistors or the ignition coil order, lack of oil pressure may be due to failure of the oil pressure relief capacitor be fitted as these may damage the system. Most electronic valve or the oil pump itself. ignition units have built-in suppression and should, therefore, not

36

Fault diagnosis - electrical system

Symptom

Reason/s

Starter motor fails to turn engine

Battery discharged Battery defective internally Battery terminal leads loose or earth lead not securely attached to body Loose or broken connections in starter motor circuit Starter motor switch or solenoid faulty Starter brushes badly worn, sticking, or brush wires loose Commutator dirty, worn or burnt Starter motor armature faulty Field coils earthed

Starter motor turns engine very slowly

Battery in discharged condition Starter brushes badly worn, sticking, or brush wires loose Loose wires in starter motor circuit

Starter motor operates without turning engine

Starter motor pinion sticking on the screwed sleeve Pinion or flywheel gear teeth broken or worn

Starter motor noisy or has an excessively rough engagement

Pinion or flywheel gear teeth broken or worn Starter motor retaining bolts loose

Battery will not hold charge for more than a few days

Battery defective internally Electrolyte level too low or electrolyte too weak due to leakage Plate separators no longer fully effective Battery plates severely sulphated

Fan/alternator belt slipping Battery terminal connections loose or corroded Alternator not charging properly Short in lighting circuit causing continual battery drain

Ignition light fails to go out; battery runs flat in a few days

Fan belt loose and slipping or broken Alternator faulty

Failure of individual electrical equipment to function correctly is dealt with alphabetically, item-by-item, as follows: Fuel gauge gives no reading

Fuel tank empty!

Cable between tank sender unit and gauge earthed or loose Fuel gauge case not earthed Fuel gauge supply cable interrupted Fuel gauge unit broken

Chapter 10 Electrical system eee TFFTTFTOCOCt—O—OSSSS.COCONN 119 eee Symptom

Reason/s

eee Fuel gauge registers full all the time

Faulty instrument voltage stabilizer Cable between tank unit and gauge broken or disconnected

Horn operates all the time

Horn push either earthed or stuck down Horn cable to horn push earthed

Horn fails to operate

Blown fuse Cable or cable connection loose, broken or disconnected Horn has an internal fault

Horn emits intermittent or unsatisfactory noise

Cable connections loose

Lights do not come on

Blown fuse If engine not running, battery discharged Light bulb filament burnt-out or bulbs broken Wire connections loose, disconnected or broken Light switch shorting or otherwise faulty

Lights come on but fade out

If engine not running battery discharged

Lights give very poor illumination

Lamp glasses dirty Reflector tarnished or dirty Lamps badly out of adjustment Incorrect bulb with too low wattage fitted Existing bulbs old and badly discoloured Electrical wiring too thin not allowing full current to pass

Lights work erratically - flashing on and off, especially over bumps

Battery terminals or earth connection loose Lights not earthing properly Contacts in light switch faulty

Wiper motor fails to work

Blown fuse Wire connections loose, disconnected or broken Brushes badly worn Armature worn or faulty Field coils faulty

Wiper motor works very slowly and takes excessive current

Commutator dirty, greasy or burnt Drive to wheelboxes bent or unlubricated Wheelbox spindle binding or damaged Armature bearings dry or unaligned Armature badly worn or faulty

Wiper motor works slowly and takes little current

Brushes badly worn Commutator dirty, greasy or burnt Armature badly worn or faulty

Wiper motor works but wiper blades remain static

Wheelbox gear and spindle damaged or worn Wiper motor gearbox parts badly worn

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Chapter 11

Suspension and steering

Contents

Fault Front Front Front Front

diagnosis - suspension and steering crossmember/axle assembly - removal and refitting a hub bearings - adjustment hub bearings and oil seal - renewal hub bearings - lubrication

a

Front shock absorbers - removal, testing and. refitting Front stabiliser bar - removal and refitting

29 12 5 7, 6

3 4

Front suspension lower arm and coil spring - removal and

refitting

0

Front suspension upper arm - removal and refitting General description ,

Rear stabiliser bar - removal and refitting Rear suspension lower arm - removal and refitting Rear suspension upper arm - removal and refitting Steering angles and front wheel alignment Steering column assembly - removal and refitting

Steering column eps refitting

and universal joint - removal and :

Steering column lace - “removal

22

8

Steering column shaft - removal and refitting

23

9 1

Steering rack flexible bellows - renewal Steering wheel - removal and refitting

19 20 10

Stub axle - removal and refitting ; hie Suspension and steering- maintenance and. inspection Tie-bar (drag strut or radius rod) - removal and refitting

Rear coil spring - removal and refitting Rear shock absorber - removal, testing and refitting

Track-rod end balljoints - removal and refitting Wheels and tyres

lio) 13

Specifications

Front suspension fs

¢

Independent, upper and lower wishbones with coil springs, telescopic shock absorbers and stabiliser bar

Spring rating Free length Colour code Wire diameter Number of coils Steering angles

12.4 in (315.0 mm)

Grey/Yellow 0.52 in(13.3 mm) alias

Toe-out Camber angle Castor angle Maximum difference between castor angles on either sideofccar Maximum difference between camber angles on either side of car

0 to 0.08 in (0 to 2.0 mm)

—0° 09’ to—1° 39’ +1° 00’ to +3° 00’ 0° 45’ 1° 00'

Rear suspension Type

ey

Coil spring with four suspension arms, hydraulic or gas-filled shock absorbers, and stabiliser bar

Spring rating Free length

12.2 in (309.0 mm) Pink/violet

Colour code Number of coils

,

Wire diameter (variable, thicker‘coils at bottom) _

7.75

0.59 in (14.92 mm) to 0.43 in (10.90 mm)

Steering Type

Rack-and-pinion with universally-jointed steering shaft and collapsible column

Turning circle Between kerbs Between walls Wheelbase Track Front Rear

32.8 ft (10.0 m) 34.9 ft (10.64 m)

Steering gear oil capacity

0.25 pint (0.15

101.6 in(2579 mm) 56.0 in (1422 mm) 56.0 in(1422 mm)

Roadwheels Type Size

24

and refitting

Rack-and-pinion steering gear - dismantling, reassembly and adjustment... cf yom © Rack-and-pinion steering gear - removal and‘Tefitting ee

Type

14 16 7 27 21

Pressed steel

4$Jx 13

litre)

Zz 11 18 28

Chapter 11 Suspension and steering es ee

131 OCO—t—“#RNRNNNN.CON

Tyres Size ao Pressures (cold) Up to three occupants, normal road speeds Full load, normal-road speeds

165SR 13 26 Ibf/in2, front 26 Ibf/in2, rear 28 Ibf/in?, front

36 Ibf/in2, rear

Torque wrench settings Ibf ft

Nm

50 18 18

69 25 25

45

62

66 50 50 70 55 35 9 9 50

91 69 69 o7 76 48 12 12 69

47 32 47 33

65 44 65 46

Rack housing-to-crossmember Track-rod end-to-steering arm Steering shaft coupling pinch-bolts Steering wheel nut