Morris Marina Owners Hanbook Maintenance Manual: Covers Models 1971 Onwards 090055066X, 9780900550669

Citation preview

@lWialslas Handbook/ Maintenance

Manual

APPROVED AND RECOMMENDED

Routine Maintenance 0 MOT Preparationg Fault Finding Repairs I

Eee

by J.R.S.Hall

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| AUTHOR

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Hare .F-2.8

This book

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CLASS

No.

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must be returned on or before the date shown to the Library from which it was borrowed

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above

ee es es FG owe ET 143

LANCASHIRE COUNTY LIBRARY CORPORATION STREET, PRESTON,

PR1 8RH

Morris Marina Covers models 1971 onwards

Owners Handbook/Maintenance Manual by J. R. S. Hall

HAYNES

75p

Acknowledgements Thanks are due to many people for their help and enthusiasm in the production of this handbook Further special thanks are extended to the manufacturers of the Morris Marina for theuse of certain illustrations and to Castrol Limited A Handbook in the Haynes Owners Handbook and Maintenance Manual Series Edited by Tim Parker and Stanley Randolph ©

JH Haynes and Company Limited 1972

Published by J H Haynes and Company Limited, Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset

Set in 10 point IBM Univers Medium

Printed in England

SBN no 90055 066 X

Contents Introduction Model Identification

Specifications, Dimensions, Weights, Capacities

Road Test Data Spares and Touring Pack

Tools Routine Maintenance Bodywork - Maintenance, Cleaning, Minor Repairs

Preparing your Car for the MOT Test

51

Buying and Selling a Used Marina Wiring Diagrams

61

Metric Conversion Tables Fault Finding Charts Index

93

Luxe de Coupe 2-door Marina 1.3 The

Introduction This handbook is intended for the Morris Marina owner, or prospective owner, who wishes to find out more about the car and wants to keep it regularly and correctly serviced with the minimum of effort so that the car gives economical, trouble free transport. High mileage Marinas are now available on the secondhand market at reasonably low prices. As the purchase of a cheaper car is usually due to economic necessity it follows that garage servicing bills should be kept to a minimum. You will find in this handbook all routine maintenance tasks that are required to keep the car running well together with a list of the tools needed to do this. Early Marinas will shortly become subject to the yearly MOT test: details of what the tester will be looking for, how to check these points yourself and the remedy of any faults found are also given in this book. Most of you reading this Introduction will have had the unpleasant experience (at some time) of having acar that simply ‘dies’ on you or just ‘will not go’. Much of the work involved in looking

after a car depends

on accurate

fault

diagnosis in the first place. Therefore, a comprehensive, methodical and progressive way of fault finding is presented in this book. Much time can

be wasted

in hopping

from

one

possible

source of trouble to another. It is best to say at the start — ‘This could be one of several things — let’s get the book out’. After successfully using this handbook should you wish to tackle the more complicated type of repair a most useful Owners Workshop Manual is available direct from the publishers or through all good accessory shops and booksellers.

The Coupe’ version - Marina 1.3 Super De Luxe here

The 1.8 Super De Luxe Saloon

Model Identification Launched in April of 1971 the Morris Marina surprised those people awaiting the replacement of the time honoured Morris Oxford/Austin A60 by its simplicity and conventionality. Fundamentally it is,ofcourse, a Morris Minor underneath; albeit revised in some of its specification but nevertheless very similar. The well tried A series engine, in 1300 form, powers the basic model of the range through a revised Triumph Toledo type gearbox and solid rear axle. The B series engine in standard form, and in near-MGB-form, powers the more expensive versions.

There are basically two bodyshells

available

at various trim levels, fitted with the three engines: the 1.3, 1.8 and 1.8 TC. The coupe, or two door four-seater, is perhaps the more attractive of the two bodyshells although the four door saloon is an able competitor visually for the Hillman Avenger and Vauxhall Viva which must be considered close rivals. The concept of the Morris Marina is to provide a reliable, conventional, easily maintained and reasonably cheap model range to suit many markets. The model range is admirably suited to the fleet buyer and yet caters for the family man; for the hard working company representative and for the sporting motorist.

The models identification:

can

be classified

as follows for

1.3 De Luxe coupe and saloon. Split front grille with bright metal grilles. Plain hub caps. Rubber floor covering. 1.3 Super De Luxe coupe and saloon. As the De Luxe except for the addition of fluted wheel trims and stainless waist and wheel arch mouldings. Pile carpets instead of rubber floor covering. Disc brakes, alternator, automatic transmission and electrically heated rear window are factory optional extras. 1.8 De Luxe coupe and saloon. Full width front grille with self-coloured insert as body colour. Trim as for the 1.3 De Luxe. 1.8 Super De Luxe coupe and saloon. As for 1.3 Super De Luxe plus patterned panel on seat

centres. 1.8 TC coupe and saloon. Black grille width panel, TC badge in its centre. Sculptured wheels and chrome wheel nuts. Kick trim on panel under doors. Door mounted rear view mirror. Reclining seats and centre folding arm rest in rear seat. Tachometer. Heated rear window. Similar optional extras are available where not already fitted as standard, as on the 1.3 range.

The 1.8 TC Saloon

Specifications, Dimensions, Weights, Capacities Engine 1.3 models Type Bore Stroke Cubic capacity Compression ratio Maximum BHP Maximum torque

Firing order Valve clearance (cold) Inlet and exhaust No of main bearings Type of oil

Engine 1.8 models Type

4 cylinder in line ohv pushrod operated (A series) 70.61 mm (2.78 in) 81.28 mm (3.2 in)

1274.86 cc (77.8 cu in) 8.8:1 60 at 5500 rpm 69.7 |b ft at 2450 rpm

1342 0.012 in (0.3 mm) 3 Castrol GTX

4 cylinder in line ohv pushrod operated (B series)

Bore Stroke

80.26 mm (3.160 in) 88.9 mm (3.5 in)

Cubic capacity Compression ratios

1798 cc (109.7 cu in)

1.8 and 1.8 TC

9.0:1

Maximum BHP TC engine Maximum torque

82.5 at 5100 rpm 93,5 at 5500 rpm

1.8 1.8TC Firing order Valve clearance (cold) Inlet and Exhaust No of main bearings Type of oil

99.4 |b ft at 2900 rpm 6.3 Ib ft at 2600 rpm

ie 4e2 0.013 in (0.33 mm) 5 Castrol GTX

Pressurised, pump impeller and fan assisted with expansion tank Blow off pressure of radiator cap Fan Fan belt tension

Fuel system Fuel pump type Air cleaner type

15 Ib/sq in (1.05 kg cm2)

8 blades % in (13 mm) deflection between dynamo pulley and crankshaft pulley

SU mechanical AUF 707 Paper element

10°

Specifications, Dimensions, Capacities, Weights Carburettor type

US: 1.8 1.8TC Ignition System Distributor type 1.3 models All other models Contact points gap Static ignition settings 1.3 High C 18 1.8TC Spark plugs Plug-electrode gap Clutch Type Actuation Lining diameter 1.3 18 Gearbox Number of gears

Synchromesh Ratios — 1.3 Top Third Second First Reverse Ratios — 1.8 Top Third Second First Reverse Type of oil

Ratios - Automatic type (optional) Third (top) Second First Type of oil Rear Axle Type Ratios — 1.3 1.8 Type of oil

SU HS4 SU HS6 Two SU. HS4

Lucas 23D4 Lucas 25D4 0.014 to 0.016 in (0.35 to 0.40 mm)

9° BTDC 10° BTDC 7° BTDC Champion N—9Y 0.024 to 0.026 in (0.625 to 0.660 mm)

Single plate diaphragm spring Hydraulic 6.5 in (165 mm) 8 in (203 mm)

4 forward, 1 reverse On all forward gears 1.000:1

1.433:1 2.112:1 3.412:1 3.75324

1.000:1 1.307:1 1.926:1 SV Aa 3.422:1 Castrol Hypoy Borg Warner Type 35 1.000:1 1.45:1 2.39:1 Castrol TOF Semi-floating, hypoid

4.111:1 3.636: 1 Castrol Hypoy

Overall Gear Ratios

Overall gear ratios may be calculated by use of the following equation: Gearbox ratio x rear axle ratio = overall gear ratio

WAP

17

"20"

21

22

Facia

1 2 3 4 5

Parcel shelf Glovebox Radio panel Loudspeaker grille Heater controls

6

Windscreen wiper/

washer

switch 7 _ Instruments

8

Headlamp high/low beam,

headlamp flasher, direction indicator and horn-push switch

9

Heated back - light switch

10 Accessory switch 11 Accessory switch

12 Facia vent 13 Handbrake lever 14 Gearchange lever 15 Cigar lighter 16 Ashtray 17 Heated back light warning light 18 Heater booster fan switch 19 Clutch pedal 20 Brake pedal 21 Mixture control - choke

22 Accelerator pedal 23 Lighting switch 24 Bonnet release handle

2324

12

Specifications, Dimensions, Capacities, Weights

Brakes Type 1.3 1.8 Footbrake Handbrake 1.3 Front drum dimensions Drum diameter

Total swept area 1.8 Front disc dimensions Disc diameter Pad area

Total swept area Rear brake dimensions Drum diameter

Total swept area Electrical System Battery type Earthed terminal Dynamo Control box Alternator (optional)

Drum front and rear Disc front, drum rear (TC model - servo assisted) Hydraulic on all four wheels Mechanical to rear wheels only 8 in (203.2 mm)

88 sq in (567.4 cm2)

9.785 in (248.5 mm) 17.4 sq in (286.77 cm2) 182.8 sq in (2671 cm2) 8 in (203.2 mm)

76 sq in (490.2 cm2) Lead acid 12 volt

Negative (—) Lucas C40/1 Lucas RB106 or RB340 Lucas 16ACR

Starter motor

t3 1.8 Wiper motor

Lucas M35J (pre-engaged type for automatics)

Lucas 2M 100 (pre-engaged type for automatics) Lucas 14W (2 speed)

Bulbs Headlamps Front sidelamps

Front flasher Rear stop and tail Rear flasher Number plate light Interior light Instrument lights Front suspension Type Shock absorbers King pin inclination Camber angle Castor angle Rear suspension Type Shock absorbers Number of spring leaves Width of leaves

Steering Type Turns lock to lock Turning circle

Sealed beam, 7 inch 6 watts 21 watts 6/21 watts (double filament) 21 watts 5 watts 5 watts (festoon) 2.2 watts

Independent, torsion bar Lever type T° positive

0° 50’ positive 2° positive (early cars 5° positive)

Semi-elliptic leaf spring

Telescopic double acting hydraulic 2 in (50.8 mm)

Rack and pinion

31 ft (9.45 m)

3

13

Specifications, Dimensions, Capacities, Weights Front wheel toe-in Wheels and tyres Wheel size Tyre size

1.3

1.8 Tyre pressures 1.3 models 5.20 x 13 Crossply

1/16 in (1.6 mm) 4%C x 13, 4 stud fitting

Crossply 5.10 x 13 Radial ply 145 x 13 Low profile radial 165-70 x 13 Radial 145 x 13 Low profile radial 165-70 x 13 Norma!

Laden

Front

Rear

Front

Rear

26 (1.8) 24 (1.6) —

28 (2.0) 26 (1.8) -

28 (2.0) 26 (1.8) 26 (1.8)

30 (2.1) 28 (2.0) 28 (2.0)

_

26 (1.8) 26 (1.8)

28 (2.0) 28 (2.0)

145 x 13 Radial 165-70 x 13 Low profile Radial 1.8 (except TC) models 145 x 13 Radial — 165-70 x 13 Low profile Radial 1.8 TC model 165-70 x 13 Low profile Radial — The figures are quoted in lbs per sq in; those in brackets are in kg

= 26 (1.8) 28 (2.0) per sq cm. The recommended pressures should be taken when the tyre is cold, as a hot tyre normally shows a higher pressure.

Capacities Fuel tank Sump (with filter) 1.3 18 Oil type Gearbox Oil type Automatic gearbox with cooler if fitted Fluid type Rear axle

Oil type Cooling system (with heater) 1s 1.8 Windscreen washer bottle Steering rack Oil type

11% gallons 6% pints

6 3/8 pints Castrol GTX 1% pints Castrol Hypoy 9% pints 11 pints Castrol TOF 1% pints Castrol Hypoy 7% pints 9 pints 3 pints 1/3 pint Castrol Hypoy

Dimensions and Weights

Overall length - Coupe Saloon Overall width - Coupe de luxe Saloon de luxe Super de luxe and TC Overall height - Coupe 1.3 and 1.8 Coupe 1.8 TC Saloon 1.3 and 1.8 Track: Front drum brakes Front disc brakes

13 ft 7 1/8 in (4.143 m) 13 ft 10 1/8 in (4.219 m)

5 ft 4 3/8 in (1.635 m) 5 5 4 4 4 4 4

ft 4 1/16 in (1.640 m) ft 4 13/16 in (1.646 m) ft 7 3/8 in (1.406 m) ft 7 1/16 in (1.400 m) ft 8 1/8 in (1.425 m) ft 4 3/8 in (1.330 m) ft4 7/8 in (1.321 m)

14

Specifications, Dimensions, Capacities, Weights Rear Wheelbase Front wheel alignment Turning circle

4 ft 4 in (1.321 m) 8 ft (2.438 m) 1/16 in toe-in (1.6 mm) 31 ft (9.45 mm)

Weights irs: 1.8 1.8TC

Coupe (2 door) 1870 Ib (848 kg) 2060 Ib (934 kg) 2070 Ib (938 kg)

Saloon (4 door) 1936 Ib (878 kg) 2126 Ib (964 kg) 2136 Ib (968 kg) Instruments

Speedometer mph Mileage indicator

Km/h scale Total mileage indicator

Ignition warning lamp Fuel gauge Headlamp high beam warning lamp

SiG 10

Temperature gauge Right-hand direction indicator warning lamp Oil pressure warning lamp

Left-hand direction indi cator warning lamp Tachometer

Controls

1 Steering lock 2,3,4 Pedals 5 Gear lever and gear positions

6 7

Handbrake Choke

Road Test Data 1.8 coupe

90 75 370 66

96 75 240

2nd

44

1st

26

60 28

4.9 7.6 11.8 16.8 25.9 20.1 32 43

4.8 6.7 9.4 13.3 18.4 19.4 22 30

3.8 6.0 8.5 12.2 17.0 18.4 25 41

_ Cruising speed (mph) _.Crusing range (miles) | Maximum speed in gears: 3rd

_ Acceleration through gears (secs) 0—30 mph O—40 mph 0—50 mph 0—60 mph O0—70 mph Standing % mile (secs) (mpg) | Fuel consumption at 50 mph (mpg) q

1.8 TC coupe automatic

96 78 270 81 55 34

| Maximum speed (mph)

| Average fuel consumption

1.3 saloon

YU

AL

engine 1.8 The

os

-

Spares and Touring Pack | _ _ _

Before undertaking any long journey, whether in this country or abroad it is advisable to thoroughly check your car and its contents. It is better to have the car serviced early, before the exact required time if necessary, rather than put it off until your return. Breakdown services, accredited dealers and spare part availability for your Marina are not always there when you need them, particularly abroad and in outlying

_ districts of Great Britain.

There are two lists below, one giving spares which should always be carried in the car and the _ other suggesting those which it is advisable to Carry if undertaking a journey abroad. Some dealers are able to supply manufacturer's recom/ mended touring packs on an hire/buy-if-you-use | basis. | Always carry

First aid box and manual Spare set of keys

Gallon can of petrol with filler spout (full) List of car main agents | Breakdown triangle (compulsory on the Con| tinent) Torch (with red flashing dome) Fan belt

Adjustable spanner (parrot jaw) Distributor - rotor arm condenser set of points 1 tin of hand cleanser (Swarfega)

Going Abroad The articles in the ‘Always Carry’ list Tow rope Set of light bulbs Set of spark plugs correctly gapped Spare inner tube valves Set of radiator hoses Radiator sealer such as Holts Radweld Set of fuses Length of HT lead Fire extinguisher Tube of gasket jointing cement Tin of brake fluid 1 quart tin of Castrol GTX 1 spare head gasket set As many other tools as you feel you may need Adequate set of maps List of BLMC agents abroad

Finilec puncture sealer

Roll of PVC insulation tape Temporary plastic windscreen Length of electrical cable (heavy duty light-

ing circuit) Screwdriver (medium sized) Electrical screwdriver Pair of pliers

Always keep this handbook in the car and produce it if you break down abroad. NonEnglish speaking mechanics will find valuable information about your ‘strange’ car in it. There are many mechanical terms common to different languages - you can always point at the photographs, it may help!

Tools To carry out the routine maintenance tasks specified in this book you will obviously need a reasonable set of tools. A really comprehensive tool kit will be expensive to purchase at one go most home mechanics have built up a kit over the years as they have tackled new and more complicated maintenance and repair work. This way the cost is spread out. Remember though, buy only the best quality (some spanners do break), keep them clean and in a safe place. The following list suggests the tools needed to undertake the work described in this book: 1 set of open-ended

spanners (5/16 inch to

7/8 inch AF) 1 set of ring spanners (5/16 inch to 7/8 inch AF) 1 spark plug spanner

1 engineer’s hammer (1 Ib ball pein) 1 soft headed hammer 1 pair pliers 1 3 2 1 1 1

pair long nosed pliers screwdrivers (small, medium, large) Phillips screwdrivers (small, medium) set of feeler gauges fine file oil can (Castrol Everyman)

1 grease gun (Castrol LM) 1 adjustable spanner (parrot jaw) Non-fluffy rag 1 pair of overalls 1 tin of hand cleanser (Swarfega)

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Routine Maintenance No matter how well you look after your Marina, various components inevitably are going to wear out and need replacement, but by carrying out the regular maintenance tasks listed below, you will be able to get above average mileage from your car before replacement becomes a necessity. A great many of the maintenance tasks are purely a visual examination of components;

many

are vital to the roadworthiness

of the car and safety of its occupants. The whole business of routine maintenance may become a bit tedious at times but do not neglect anything;

your

life or some

innocent

party’s

life may depend on it and your car will apprecjate the care you bestow on it by giving you virtually trouble free transport.

Plan ahead Before starting work always read through what work is involved and make sure you have all the parts and lubricants that will be required. Most do-it-yourself motorists do their work during the evenings

or weekends

when

the parts

departments of garages are closed, and nothing is more annoying than starting a job and being unable to complete it due to lack of spares. The following is a list of the parts that will probably be required for each particular service but may have to be supplemented to meet any individual needs. If the replacement of a part is not necessary for a particular service then it may be retained for a subsequent service. It should be noted that this list is progressive so as to prevent unnecessary repetition. Weekly

| Engine oil - Castrol GTX Water - cooling system - windscreen washer Distilled water - battery Vaseline -battery terminals Tyre pressure gauge Lockheed Brake Fluid -hydraulic reservoir

Spare bulbs - lights

6000 mile service Oil filter and seal Contact breaker set Oil can - Castrol Everyman or GTX Spark plugs Small quantity petrol in jar - cleaning Lockheed Fluid - clutch reservoir Castrol Hypoy - gearbox (manual) Castrol TOF - gearbox (automatic) Castrol Hypoy - rear axle Fan belt Grease gun filled with Castrol LM Grease 12000 mile service Paper element air cleaner

9 inch length rubber tubing and jam jar - brake bleeding Castrol Antifreeze (autumn) Front disc pads (1.8 models) Front drum shoes (1.3 models) Rear drum shoes

500 MILES Every 500 miles or weekly 1 Engine Check the oil level in the sump. The first reading taken on the dipstick should not be accepted as an accurate one. Wipe it clean and recheck. Top up if necessary with Castrol GTX. Check the coolant level in the expansion tank and top up if necessary. If the level has dropped appreciably since the previous occasion check around for signs of a leak. If antifreeze is in the coolant a leak will be more apparent as the coloured antifreeze will be sprayed about by the fan. Check the level of the electrolyte in the battery and top up with distilled water if this is low. Donot overfill. If the battery is overfilled or any

electrolyte spilled, immediately wipe away the excess as electrolyte, being a dilute solution of

sulphuric acid, will attack and corrode any metal it comes into contact with. Check that the terminals are clean and coated with a petroleum

22

Routine Maintenance

jelly, such as Vaseline, to prevent corrosion.

2 Steering Check the tyre pressures against the specified pressures shown on page 13. If radial ply tyres are fitted to a model normally fitted with crossply tyres follow the tyre manufacturers instructions. Do not forget to check the spare. Examine the tyres for unusual or excessive wear or damage. If an unusual wear pattern is developing take your car to your local garage to have the steering geometry checked. Check that the steering is smooth and accurate. If the steering pulls one way, or there is excessive play at the steering wheel, take the car to your local garage for testing on proper equipment. 3 Brakes Check the level of the hydraulic fluid in the reservoir and top up with Lockheed brake fluid if necessary. If the level has dropped significantly examine the braking system for possible leaks. 4

Lights Check that all the bulbs in the lights are in working order, including the flashers and brake lights. If any of the bulbs are found to be defective

they can be replaced as follows: HEADLAMPS. Remove the four screws that retain the top of the radiator grille to the body

then lift the grille out of its locating holes in the body and away from the car.

Undo the three screws that hold the headlamp rim to the lamp body and lift the rim away. The light unit itself can now be withdrawn a short distance from the lamp body to disconnect the wiring. The light unit may be one of three types, one of which is a sealed beam unit, the other two having replaceable bulbs as shown in Fig 4, types A, B and C. In the case of type A, the sealed beam unit, simply pull the wiring plug off the rear of the unit and replace it with a new one. In the case of type B, press and turn the cap on the rear of the unit anticlockwise and withdraw the cap and bulb. Re-assemble with a new bulb. With type C, pull the wiring plug off the rear of the bulb holder, release the spring clip holding the bulb into the reflector and remove and replace the bulb.

Fig 2 Check the level of the electrolyte in the battery Lucas type (above) Exide type (below). 1 Electrolyte levels 2and3 Ventcover 4 Separator plates

cS

Fig 3 Brake and clutch master cylinder reservoirs (The left hand illustration relates to 1.3 models and the right hand to 1.8 models. In each case the brake cylinder is on the left and the clutch cylinder on the right).

Fig 4 Headlamp Assembly A Sealed beam unit B_ Cap type bulb holder Spring clip bulb holder Rim securing screws 4 Springclip Light unit Inner rim

5

Wires from sump connectors

24

Routine

Maintenance

FRONT, SIDE AND FLASHER LAMPS Undo the two small screws holding the two lenses in place, remove the lenses and take out the defective bulb by pushing gently in and turning it in an anticlockwise direction. These bulbs have offset pins to prevent them being fitted incorrectly. If a new bulb appears not to fit, turn it through 180° and try again. TAIL, STOP AND FLASHER LAMPS Both these bulbs are accessible from inside the boot of the car. Simply pull the bulb holder from the light cluster and replace if defective. These bulbs also have offset pins to prevent incorrect fitting. The tail and stop lamp bulb is of the double filament type, the brighter fila-

ment only coming on when the brakes are applied. !f one filament goes a new bulb must be fitted.

Fig 5 Side and flasher lamps

1

Retaining screw Lens

2

3 4

Sidelamp Flasher lamp

{ee

REAR NUMBER PLATE LIGHTS To remove the domed lense simply push it in and turn it slightly until it becomes disengaged. The bulb is a simple push fit type. Note that there are two rear number plate lights fitted and care should be taken when checking the lights that both are functioning correctly. 5 General It is wise to top up the windscreen washer

reservoir at weekly intervals. There is nothing more aggravating than operating the washer and finding it empty.

_ 6000 MILES Every 6000 miles, or six months if 6000 is not exceeded 6 Engine Run the engine until it has reached its normal working temperature. Place a container of at least seven pints capacity under the sump drain plug, remove the plug and allow the oil to drain into the container for at least ten minutes. (Do not pour this old oil down the household drain. It is illegal. Take it to a local garage, they have special oil disposal facilities). The oil filter cartridge is located on the right hand side of the engine. On 1.3 models it screws directly onto the block at a slight angle and on 1.8 models it screws onto an oil pipe junction in a vertical position. Unscrew the filter cartridge from its location and throw it away. Also discard the sealing ring,

Fig 6 Tail, stop and flasher lamps

1

Flasher

2

Tail/stop

Fig 7 Rear number plate light

1

Lens

2

Fixing clip

Fig 8 Engine lubrication A 1.3 models Dipstick Oil filler cap and 4 Oil drain plug Drain plug sealing washer Oil filter cartridge Filter head

B 1.8 models Seal Fuel pump cover retaining screws Cover Joint washer Filter Fuel inlet

Fuel outlet

26

Routine Maintenance.

as a new one is provided with the new filter. Smear the seal of the new filter cartridge with clean engine oil and screw it into position

tightening down with the hands only. Replace the sump drain plug and washer then refill the sump with the correct amount of Castrol GTX as shown in Capacities on Page 13. Thoroughly clean off the oil filler cap before replacing it then run the engine for a few minutes and check for leaks round the filter base. If a leak is apparent it is due to the sealing ring being incorrectly seated in its groove. Finally check the dipstick to ensure the oil level is correct. 7 Adjustment of valve clearance The valve adjustments should be made with the engine cold. The importance of correct rocker arm to valve stem clearances cannot be overstressed as they are vital to the performance of the engine. If the clearances are set too open, the efficiency of the engine is reduced because the valves open later and close earlier than was intended. If, on the other hand, the clearances are set too tight there is a danger that the stems will expand upon heating and not allow the valves to close properly, which will cause burning of the valve head and seat and possible warping. Undo and remove the two bolts holding the rocker cover to the cylinder head. Then remove the rocker cover and its cork gasket. As it will be necessary to rotate the engine during the adjustment of the valve clearances, remove the plugs to relieve the compression and find a spanner which fits the crankshaft pulley nut so it can be used to turn the engine. It is important that the clearance is set when the tappet of the valve being adjusted is on the heel of the cam (ie opposite the peak). To ensure that this is correctly done, carry out your adjustments in the following order:

Valve fully open Valve No

©.

Check and adjust

Clearance cold is 1.8

Valve No 1

-]NLhOO NOW

3 5 2 8

.012 .012 .012 .012

in in in in

.013 .013 .013 .013

in in in in

6

.012 in .013 in

4 7

012 in .013 in 012 in .013 in

A valve can be considered to be fully open when its spring is compressed as far as it will go just prior to opening again. Before beginning adjustments it is advisable to rotate the engine slightly and check that you are absolutely sure when.a valve is fully open. The correct feeler gauge clearances between the valve stem and the rocker arm pad with the engine cold are .012 inch for 1.3 litre engines and .013 inch for 1.8 litre engines, the reading being the same for both inlet and exhaust valves. Ensure No8 valve is fully open, then working from the front of the engine on No 1 valve the correct clearance is obtained by slackening the hexagon locknut with a spanner (ring spanner if available is best) while holding the ball pin against rotation with a screwdriver. Fig 9 clearly shows the correct procedure. Then, still pressing down with the screwdriver, insert a

feeler gauge or gauges of .012 or .013 inch thickness, according to which engine is being worked on, between the valve stem head and the rocker arm and adjust the ball pin until the feeler gauge will just move in and out without pinching or catching in the gap. Now, holding the ball pin firmly in the correct position with the screwdriver, tighten down the hexagon locknut.

Following the table shown previously adjust all seven remaining valves to their correct gaps then replace the rocker cover using a new cork gasket.

-

8 Spark Plugs Remove the spark plugs and clean off all carbon deposits. If your local garage has sand blasting equipment, this is the most effective method of cleaning plugs. Failing that a wire brush will suffice. Draw a fine file across the plug points to finally clear any remaining deposits then check the gap between the electrodes. This should be checked with feeler gauges and should be .024 to .026 inch. If the gap is incorrect the electrode attached to the plug body should be gently bent until the correct setting is obtained. 9

Distributor contact breaker adjustment To adjust the contact breaker points to the correct gap, first pull off the two clips securing ~ the distributor cap to the distributor body and lift away the cap Clean it inside and out with a dry cloth. The four segments may be badly burnt or scored. If they are a new cap will have to be fitted.

Routine Maintenance

27

Push in the carbon brush located in the top of the cap once or twice to make sure that it moves freely. Gently prise the contact breaker points open to examine the condition of their faces. If they are rough, pitted or dirty, it will be necessary to remove them for resurfacing, or for replacement points to be fitted. Presuming the points are satisfactory, or that they have been cleaned and replaced, measure the gap between the points by turning the en-

+| lee

gine over until the contact breaker arm is on the peak of one of the four cam lobes. Fig 9 Adjustment of valve clearance 1

Clearance between valve stem and rocker arm pad

2 3

Locknut Screwdriver

A 0.015 inch feeler gauge should now just fit between the points. If the gap varies from this amount, slacken

the contact plate securing screw (Fig 11). Adjust the contact gap by inserting a screwdriver in the notched hole (3) at the end of the plate, turning clockwise to decrease and anticlockwise to increase the gap. Tighten the securing screw and check the gap again (1).

l(

Replace the rotor arm and distributor cap and

clip the spring blade retainers into position. 10 Removal and replacing contact breaker set If the contact breaker points are burnt, pitted or badly worn, they must be removed and either replaced, or their faces must be filed smooth. Referring to Fig 12, to remove the contact breaker set, remove the nut (3) from the insulated post and take off both leads under it.

Undo the contact set securing screw (2) with its spring washer and plain washer then lift the contact set (1) away from the distributor. Toreface the points, rub their faces on a fine carborundum stone, or on fine emery paper. It is important that the faces are rubbed flat and parallel to each other so that there will be com- ~ plete face to face contact when the points are closed. One of the points will be pitted and the other will have deposits on it. It is necessary to completely remove the built-up deposits, but not necessary to rub the pitted point right down to the-stage where all the pitting has disappeared, though obviously if this is done it will prolong the time before the operation of resurfacing the points has to be repeated. Replacement of the contact set is a reversal of the Fig 11 Adjusting contact breaker points gap

1

Contact breaker 2

Fixingscrew 3

Arm

removal

procedure,

but do not

over-

tighten the nut (3). Also do not fully tighten down the contact set screw until the points have been correctly adjusted as described in the previous section.

28

Routine Maintenance 11 Distributor lubrication Remove the distributor cap, pull off the rotor arm and apply two drops of engine oil (Castrol GTX) to the head of the large screw in the centre of the distributor. This lubricates the shaft bearings. Allow three drops of oil to flow past the base of the cam to the automatic timing mechanism. Smear a faint trace of oil on the cam itself. Apply a tiny spot of oil to the moving contact breaker pivot pin. Too much oil at this

point will get onto the points and cause misfiring.

12 Carburettor piston damper/s To top up the carburettor damper/s wipe the Fig 12 Removing the contact breaker set 1

Breaker arm

2

Fixingscrew 3

Pivot

top of the carburettor suction chamber and unscrew the hexagon plastic plunger top from the suction chamber. Withdraw the damper assembly and top up the reservoir with Castrol GTX or Castrol Everyman until the oil level is % inch (13 mm) above the top of the hollow piston rod as shown in

Fig 14. Replace the damper assembly and screw firmly down.

it

13 Adjust carburettor slow running. Tune carburettors Having carried out operation No 12, run the engine until it reaches its normal operating tem-

perature then remove the air cleaner from the carburettor air intake/s. In the case of twin carburettors slacken both throttle spindle intercon-

necting clamp bolts (3 in Fig 15) and both jet interconnecting clamp bolts (4). Only two adjustments are provided on the SU carburettor. Idling speed is governed by the

throttle adjusting screw and the mixture strength

Fig 14 Lubricating carburettor piston damper

by the jet adjusting screw. The SU carburettor is correctly adjusted for the whole of its engine revolution range when the idling mixture strength is correct. To adjust the mixtures set the engine to run at about 1000 rpm by screwing in the idling screw. If twin SU carburettors are fitted repeat this procedure to each one in turn. Check the mixture strength by lifting the piston of the carburettor approximately 1/32 inch with the piston lifting pin so asto disturb the airflow as little as possible. If: a) the speed of the engine increases appreciably the mixture is too rich; b) the engine speed immediately decreases the mixture is too weak; c) the engine speed increases very slightly the

_ _ ~

29

Routine Maintenance mixture is correct. To enrich the mixture rotate the adjusting nut, which is the nut at the bottom of the carburettor, in an anticlockwise direction; to weaken, in a clockwise direction. Only turn the adjusting nut a flat at a time and check the mixture strength after each turn. It is likely that there will be a slight increase or decrease in rpm after the mixture adjustment has been made so the throttle adjusting screw should now be turned so that the engine idles at the correct speed (1.3 - 600 rpm; 1.8 - 800 rpm). If the car is fitted with twin SU carburettors it will be necessary to synchronise them so that they are both adjusted to give an equal contribution of petrol/air charge to the inlet manifold. First ensure that the mixture is correct in each instrument, then the idling suction. It is best to use a vacuum synchronising device such

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Typical damage caused

Plug too cold - dry

possibly by pre-ignition

black deposits

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Index Air cleaners - renewal 34 Antifreeze 40 Automatic gearbox 30

Electrical system - data 12

Engine - data 9 faults 79, 80 lack of power 79 misfires 80

Battery - faults 69, 87 routine maintenance 21 topping up 21 Bodywork - cleaning 43, 44 paint touch up 45 repairs 47 routine maintenance 42

Brakes - bleeding 38 checking 51, 53 data 12 faults 75, 77, 90, 91 routine maintenance 22 Brakes (1.3 model) - adjustment 32, 33 shoe replacement 34, 36 Brakes (1.8 model) - pad replacement 36 shoe replacement 36 Buying 55 Capacities 13 Carburettor - data 10 faults 72 piston dampers 28 slow running adjustment 28

noises 77

overheating 84 routine maintenance 21, 24 Fan belt - adjustment 32 broken 84 Front hub bearings - adjustment 34 Front suspension - data 12 lubrication 32 Front wheel - alignment 92 Fuel pump - faults 72 routine maintenance 29 Fuel system - data 9

G Gearbox - data 10 routine maintenance 30

H Handbrake - cable adjustment 33 cable lubrication 33 High tension cables 70

tuning 28 Carpets - cleaning 43 Chromium plating - cleaning 44 Clutch - data 10 faults 75, 76, 77 routine maintenance 30 slipping 90 Compression ratio 9

Condenser - checking 70 Contact breaker - adjustment 26 Control box 87 Controls 11, 14 Cooling system - data 9 faults 84 flushing 85 loss of coolant 84 Cylinder head gasket 85 D

Dimensions 13 Distributor - lubrication 28 routine maintenance 26 Dynamo - brushes 38 faults 86 lubrication 30

Ignition - data 10 faults 70 timing 82 wiring diagram 64 L Lights - checking 51, 75 faults 90 routine maintenance 22 Lubrication chart 31 engine 25 M Maintenance material 21 Model identification 7

Oil changing 24 Oil consumption - excessive 82 Oil filter cartridge - changing 24 P

Polishing the car 45

94

Radiator - cap 85 faults 84, 86 Rear axle - data 10 routine maintenance 30 Rear springs - routine maintenance 34 Rear suspension - data 12 Road test data 15 Routine maintenance - weekly 21 6000 miles 24

12000 miles 34 Rust prevention 44

Selling 57 Spares 17 Spark plugs - routine maintenance 26 Starter motor - jammed 69 Starting - causes of difficulty 69 Steam cleaning 43 Steering - checking for wear 51 data 12 faults 88 routine maintenance 22, 32 stiff 88

Index wander 88 Steering wheel - excessive play 57, 88

Suspension = faults 88 r Thermostat 85 Tools 19 Touring pack 17 Tyres - data 13 ’ Tyres - faults 92 inspection 55 Pressures 13

Upholstery 43

Vv Valve clearance adjustment 26

W Washing the car 44 Water pump - leaking 86 Weights 14 Wiring diagrams 61, 63

Other titles in the Haynes Owner’s Handbook/Maintenance Manual Series

Ford Anglia 105E/123E Ford Capri 1300/1600 Ford Cortina Mk 1 Ford Cortina Mk 2 Ford Escort Ford Corsair 1500 BLMC 1100/1300 BLMC Mini Morris Minor 1000 Hillman Imp Triumph Herald

75p 75p 75p 75p 75p

Vauxhall Vauxhall Vauxhall Vauxhall

75p 75p 75p 75p

Viva HA Viva HB Viva HC Victor FB

75p 75p 75p 75p 75p 75p

Further titles in this series are in preparation

A full range of Owner’s Workshop Manuals also is available from the publishers

Although every care has been taken to ensure the correctness of data used, it must be borne in mind that alterations and design changes can occur within the production run of a model without specific reclassification. No liability can be accepted for damage, loss or injury caused by errors or omissions in

the information given.

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All Morris Marina models from 1971 This Maintenance Manual/Owners Handbook is for all Morris Marina owners who want to reduce their motoring costs, enjoy reliable trouble free motoring, extend their car's life and maintain its resale value, Written specifically for the

Morris

Marina owner

the contents show you how to maintain and service

all models correctly to help give safer, more enjoyable motoring advantage is that by) doin your own maintenance you will dramatic your motoring bills and*not waste time while your Car is in the ga

repairs are carefully explained - even inexperienced amateurs everything clearly. Extensive fault finding charts pinpoint troubl help get you moving if you cannot start or breakdown, complete section showing how to check and prepare your Mo M.O.T. test. Specifications, road test data, _production . hist identification and ‘how to buy a good used Marina’ are also include Carry this book in your car and it should save tyou: its s.,.

'

Ain

w

6-0” WIA

times over,

Price 75p

999-1¢

AVI