Austin Maxi Covers Models 1969 Onwards Owners Handbook 0900550759, 9780900550751

Citation preview

Owners

Handbook’ Maintenance

Manual

APPROVED AND RECOMMENDED s ;

Routine Maintenance 0 MOT Preparationo Fault Findingo Repairs

by B.L.Chalmers-Hunt

HAYNES

DOCK STREET el. NOV. 1977

29, SEP.1986

23. BCT 1978

18. FEB. 198

-6, NOV, 1982

{2 MAR 1984

Fuku. |90° FOO8O%87

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fee wn

+s ae 3 he mt a A it was i

143

LANCASHIRE COUNTY LIBRARY CORPORATION STREET, PRESTON,

PR1

8RH

above

Austin MVlax! Covers models 1969 onwards Owners

Handbook

Maintenance

Manual

by B. L. Chalmers-Hunt

HAYNES

7Sp

0

080987

Leonie

7

Acknowledgements T hanks are due to many people for their help and enthusiasm in the production of this handbook Further special thanks are extended to the manufacturers of the Austin Maxi for the use of certain illustrations and to Castrol Limited

A Handbook in the Haynes Owners Handbook and Maintenance Manual Series Edited by Stanley Randolph ©

J H Haynes and Company

Limited 1972

Published by J H Haynes and Company

Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset

Set in 10 point IBM Univers Medium Printed in England

SBN no 90055 075 9

Limited,

Contents Introduction Model Identification

Specifications, Dimensions, Weights

Capacities Road Test Data Spares and Touring Pack

Tools Routine Maintenance Bodywork - Maintenance, Cleaning,

Minor Repairs

Preparing your Car for the MOT Test Buying and Selling a Used Maxi

Wiring Diagrams

Metric Conversion Tables Fault Finding Charts Index

109

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20

Routine maintenance No matter how well you look after your Maxi various components inevitably are going

slowly if you are trapped under a car! 8 Always use the correct size of spanner, otherwise it might fly off causing great damage to your person or other parts of the car. 9 Do not allow battery acid to come into contact with the skin or clothes. Should this occur immediately wash off with a copious supply of cold water.

to wear out and need replacement but by carrying out the regular maintenance tasks listed you will be able to get above average mileage from your car before replacement becomes a necessity. A great many of the maintenance tasks are purely a visual examination of components, many are vital to the roadworthiness of the car and safety of its occupants. The whole business of routine maintenance may become a bit tedious at times but do not neglect anything; your life or some innocent party’s life may depend on it and your car will appreciate the care you bestow on it by giving you as trouble-free transport as possible.

sure you have ample time to finish.

Safety

during the evenings or weekends when the parts

Accidents will happen but they can often be prevented. A little thought can save a considerable amount of heartbreak as well as inconvenience. Read through the following points and always put them into practice:

departments

1 Do not run the engine of the car in the garage with the garage doors closed. 2 Do not work in a garage pit with the engine running. 3 Do not wear a tie or have long sleeves when working on the engine with it running. They can easily get caught in the fan blades or fan belt. (This applies to hair - tie it back.) }4 When jacking up the front or rear of the car always chock the remaining two wheels. Where possible also apply the handbrake. 5 Do not rely on the jack to support the full weight of the car. Always supplement with axle stands or thick wooden blocks. These should be placed under the main longitudinal members. 6 Immediately wipe up any grease or oil spilled on the floor. 7 \f you are working under the car for any length of time ask someone to check every half an hour to make sure all is well. Time passes

10 Do not rush a job; before starting work make

Plan ahead Before starting

work

always

.

read through

what work is involved and make sure you have all the parts and lubricants that will be required. Most do-it-yourself motorists do their work

of garages are closed and nothing

is more annoying than starting a job and being unable to complete it due to lack of spares. The following is a list of the parts that will probably be required for each particular service but it may have to be supplemented to meet any individual needs. If the replacement of a part is not necessary for a particular service then it may be

retained for a subsequent service. Buying oil in bulk is often cheaper than purchasing it in individual 1 pint or quart tins. It should be noted that this list is progressive so as to prevent unnecessary repetition.

Weekly

Engine oil - Castrol GTX Distilled water - battery Water - screen washer reservoir; use water and Holts Screen Washer Additive

soft

Bulbs - headlight sealed beam unit, front side/flasher, stop/tail, rear flasher, number

plate light bulb, side flasher repeater Holts Fly Squash Remover - windscreen

22

Routine Maintenance

3000 miles Soft water for cooling system or Antifreeze solution Hydraulic

reservoirs

- Castrol

Girling Brake

Fluid 6000 miles Fan belt Contact breaker points Disc brake - pads Engine oil filter Holts Silencer Seal Holts Gun Gum Glycerine

heat and the tyre could possibly collapse. Conversely, if the tyres are over-inflated

12,000 miles

wear will be prevalent as there will be a smaller area of tread in contact with the road surface. Higher tyre pressures also cause discomfort to the driver and passengers as the tyres are not able to flex within their designed limits to act

Ventilation air filter element

Air cleaner element/s Fuel pump cover gasket Spark plugs Brake shoes with new linings Castro! PH Grease Castrol LM Grease HT cable

as shock absorbers. A tyre is more susceptible to fractures or impact cuts if over-inflated. Always test tyre pressures when the tyre is cold as driving any distance generates heat causing

Dynamo brushes Windscreen wiper blades

an increase in pressure.

24,000 miles

3 Check battery electrolyte level

Distributor condenser

36,000 miles Brake servo filter Autumn service Antifreeze Radiator and heater hoses

Weekly: Before miles (400 km)

2 Check tyre pressures Check the tyre pressures with an accurate gauge and adjust the pressures as necessary. Do not forget the spare wheel. Make sure that the tyre walls and treads are free of damage. Remember that the tyre tread should have a minimum of 1 millimetre depth across three quarters of the total width. If the tyres are under-inflated handling of the car will deteriorate and it will tend to roll with excessive tyre squeal and scuffing when cornering. Excessive wear will occur due to the greater area of tread in contact with the road surface. Also the tyres will overflex causing the generation of excessive

a long jouiney

or every 250

1 Check engine oil level The oil dipstick is located to the rear of the

dynamo. Do not take a dipstick reading for 15 minutes after the engine has stopped running to allow the oil to drain head. Make sure the Withdraw the dipstick, and insert it into its

down from the cylinder car is on level ground. wipe it clean with a rag, drilling until it is fully home. Withdraw it again and note where the oil mark is. Top up if necessary using Castrol GTX until the maximum mark is met allowing time for the oil to run into the sump before taking subsequent readings. The distance between the MAX and MIN marks corresponds to approximately 2 pints (1.14 litres).

Check the battery electrolyte level and top up as necessary with distilled water. Make sure that the top of the battery is always kept clean and free of moisture. Before removing the onepiece vent plug assembly from the battery, wipe the surrounding area with an old rag so that there is no dampness or dirt on the top of the battery. Remove the vent plug assembly and check the level of the electrolyte in the end cell. If the level is low on any cell distilled water must be added until the level is just above the top of the separators. Do not overfill because, as the under bonnet temperature rises,

the electrolyte will expand and flow out of the vent holes and cover the surrounding area with acid. If there are signs of corrosion around the terminals or surrounding area of the battery wipe with a dilute ammonia solution. Smear the terminals with a little vaseline to prevent further corrosion.

4 Check windscreen washer reservoir Check the level of the screen washer bottle and fill if necessary. Additives are available in summer and winter mixes, to clear squashed flies and stop freezing respectively.

Aan

7 Expansion tank pressure cap

2 Expansion tank 3. Radiator filler cap

TYRE

PRESSURE CHECK — ALWAYS READINGS

TAKE

= byVii,

TWO

gs 22S cn

=]

-

PQ iy ye yneneeeeere™

1 Dipstick

LUCAS BATTERY

FILLER

LUCAS ‘PACEMAKER’

BATTERY

FILLER

1 Manifold

2 Separator guards 1 Electrolyte level 2 Vent cover 3 Separator plates

4 Trough 5 Rectangular filler slots 6 Cover seating grooves

24

Routine Maintenance

5 Check tightness of whee! nuts Remove the wheel trims and check all wheel nuts for tightness but take care not to overtighten. 6 Fuel tank contents The level of petrol in the tank should never be allowed to fall below 1 gallon otherwise any sediment or water contamination in the tank will find its way into the fuel line and possibly cause blockage. 7 Check operation of all lights For safety reasons always check that all the lights are working correctly. WHEEL TRIM REMOVAL

Headlight unit Undo and remove the screw securing the rim and carefully lift off the rim. Undo and remove the three screws securing the light unit retaining

WLLL

COLCA

TRC

Ae

Whee

plate to the light assembly body. Lift away the

retaining plate. Draw the light unit forwards away from the light assembly body. To remove the sealed beam unit detach the three pin connection from the reflector. Refitting is the

nanny) ynnnn

reverse sequence to removal. Side and front flasher bulbs Undo and remove the two screws that secure the lamp lens to the lamp body and lift away the

lens, taking

care

not to darnage

the seal.

Either bulb is retained by a bayonet fixing; to remove a bulb push in slightly and rotate in an anticlockwise direction. To gain access to a direction indicator side repeater bulb, remove the screw securing the lens and lift away the lens. A single filament bayonet cap bulb is fitted.

FRONT AND SIDE FLASHER LIGHT UNIT 1 Light lens securingscrew

3 Flasher bulb

2 Light lens

4 Sidelamp bulb

——————— ——

ae

Stop, tail and rear flasher bulbs Undo and remove the three screws securing the lens to lamp body and lift away the lens

taking care not to damage the seal. Two bulbs are used, the lower one being filament type, and are retained

of the double in position by

a bayonet fixing. To remove a bulb push in slightly and rotate in an anticlockwise direction. The

lower, double

filament

bulb

has offset

pins on the bayonet fixing. It is not possible to fit it in the wrong way round. LIGHT UNIT

Number plate and reverse light bulbs Undo and remove the two screws that secure the cover to the lamp body and lift away the cover. Lift away the relevant lens and remove the

1 Flasher bulb 2 Stop and tail light bulb

3 Light lens securing screw 4 Light lens

25

Routine Maintenance

HEADLIGHT UNIT COMPONENT PARTS 2 4 5 6

DIRECTION

Outer rim Light unit retaining rim Light unit Sealed beam light unit connector

ment screw 10 Horizontal beam adjustment screw

INDICATOR SIDE REPEATER UNIT

1 Lens securing screw

6

9 Vertical beam adjust-

LIGHT

3 Bulb

2 Light lens

bulb by pushing in slightly and rotating in an anticlockwise direction.

NUMBER

PLATE AND REVERSE

1 Lens cover securing screw 2 Light lenses cover 3 Light lenses

LIGHT UNIT

4 Number plate bulbs 5 Reverse lamp bulb

EVERY 3000 MILES (5000 KM)OR 3MONTHS (whichever is sooner) Carry out weekly service as applicable plus:

8 Clean windscreen, mirrors and headlamps

The best method of removing dirt and contamination is to use Holts Fly Squash Remover which is a fast foaming cleaner in an aerosol can. At the same time clean the rear screen and wing mirrors. To ensure the headlamps operate efficiently clean the glass. This is particularly important in winter or wet weather.

9 Top up carburettor dashpot/s Wipe the top of the carburettor dashpot and unscrew the damper. Check the level of oil using the damper as a dipstick. The level should be to 0.5 inch above the top of the hollow piston rod. Top up as necessary. with Castrol GTX.

26

EXPLANATION OF SYMBOLS

eS

I]

CASTROL GTX.

CASTROL LM

An ultra high performance motor oil Recommended for theengine in summer and winter

GREASE. A multi-purpose high melting point lithium based grease,

recommended for al! greasing points,

DAILY

EVERY 6,000 MILES EVERY 6,000 MILES Including Including 3,000 mile service

3,000 mile service

ENGINE Check oil level in sump and replenish if necessary to the “full’’ mark on the dipstick with Castrol GTX

EVERY

(

6,000 MILES

DYNAMO

At the first 500 miles. thereafter every

sadstatic

Castro! GTX. NOTED =O wneie

To lubricate the dynamo

oat i) ge are advised

central hole +n the rear bearing housing Avoid over-lubrication

that mere

draining periods are desirable if the operation of the car involves — (1) Frequent stop/start driving (2) Operation during cold weather, appreciable engine

EVERY 3,000 MILES

Including DAILY service

|

CARBURETTOR Unscrew and remove the damper unit, and pour Castrolite into the hollow

into position

Also apply Castrolite to the carburettor

controls

and cables

arm

and lightly smear

the cam

and

contact breaker pivot with Castrol LM

Also add Grease. Avoid over-greasing. a few drops of Castrol GTX to the centre oetescamispiadle shen Wubdrawing

idling is involved (3) Where much driving is done under dusty conditions Capacity 84 pts. including filter

Piston rod until the level is $° above the piston, then screw the damper back

Remove the distributor cover and rotor

few drops of Castrol GTX through the

frequent sump

especially when

DISTRIBUTOR bearing add a

H

|

h

27

Routine Maintenance

10 Check level of coolant in cooling system Check the level of coolant in the engine cooling system when the unit is cold. Remove the expansion tank pressure cap and check the level of coolant which should be at least up to the centre of the mounting strap. Top up as necessary with soft rain antifreeze solution must

water. In winter an be used. It is very

important that the radiator filler cap is not removed whilst the cooling system is hot. 11

Check and top up brake and clutch fluid

reservoirs The reservoirs are located at the rear of the engine compartment on the bulkhead. The brake fluid reservoir is on the left hand side and the

clutch fluid reservoir on the right hand side looking at them from the front of the car. Wipe the tops clean and unscrew the caps making sure that no dirt finds its way into the reservoir. The correct level of the fluid should be up to the level line on the outside of the reservoirs. If the level has dropped considerably it is an

indication that there is a leak in the hydraulic system which must be rectified immediately. Top up the reservoir levels as necessary using Castrol Girling Brake Fluid and replace the caps.

12 Check and adjust brakes Jack up the rear of the car and place on firmly based stands. Also chock the front wheels. Release the handbrake and then working under the car locate the square headed adjuster at the top of the backplate. The brakes are adjusted by turning the square headed adjuster in a clockwise or anticlockwise direction. Always use a square headed brake

CLUTCH AND BRAKE MASTER CY LINDE LOCATION 1 Clutch master cylinder 2 Brake master cylinder 3 Fluid level

Vent holes (arrowed)

adjuster

spanner

adjuster. Turn direction when

to

save

the

edges

of

the

the adjuster in a clockwise viewed from the centre of the

car, until the brake shoes lock the wheel. Turn

the adjuster back until the wheel is free to rotate without the shoes rubbing. Spin the wheel and apply the brakes hard to centralise the shoes and then recheck that it is not possible

to turn the adjuster further without locking the wheel. Note that a rubbing noise when the wheel is spun is usually due to dust on the brake drum and shoe lining. If there is no obvious slowing down of the wheel due to brake binding there is

Mi,

no need to slacken off the adjuster until the noise disappears. It is better to remove the drum

4

REAR BRAKE ADJUSTER

(ARROWED)

|

and clean, taking care not to inhale any dust.

Repeat this process for the other brake drum.

28

Routine Maintenance

Apply a little graphite penetrating oil on the adjuster threads so checking the possibility of seizure by rusting. 13 Check hydraulic pipes and hoses Carefully examine all clutch and brake hydraulic pipes and hoses for signs of rusting, perishing or leaking. Also make sure that the front brake flexible hoses are not in contact with any body or mechanical component when the steering wheel is turned on both full locks.

14 Check headlight alignment The headlight beam alignment is something which rarely alters and is best set using proper optical alignment equipment. Lights which do not dip correctly are illegal and if it is obvious that yours need attention they must be adjusted as soon as possible. The headlights may be adjusted for both vertical and horizontal beam position by two

spring loaded screws which are accessible once the outer rim has been removed. For vertical movement use the uppermost screw and the second one for horizontal movement.

They should be set so that on full or high beam the beams are set slightly below parallel with a level road surface. Do not forget that the beam position is affected by how the car is normally loaded for night driving, and set the beams with the car loaded to this position. Although this adjustment can be set at home, it is recommended that this be left to the local garage who will have the necessary equipment to do the job more accurately. 15

. FAN BELT ADJUSTMENT 1 Upper front and rear mountings 2 Adjustment link securing bolt

Check rubber gaiters

Carefully inspect the rubber gaiters protecting the drive shaft constant velocity joints and steering assembly for signs of leaking or damage and if evident the car must be taken to the local BLMC garage for rectification.

16 Lubricate locks and hinges Lubricate all locks, hinges and striker plates with Castrol GTX. Wipe away any excess oil.

EVERY 6000 MILES (10,000 KM) OR 6 MONTHS (whichever is sooner) Carry out 3000 mile service as applicable plus: CHECKING

17 Check valve clearances It is not usual for the i

valve clearances

OPERATION

OF AUTOMATIC

ADVANCE

AND RETARD MECHANISM to

s need re-adjustment throughout the life of the

1 Rot

a

]

2. Moving beconiatm

Routine Maintenance engine

29 because

of the

lack

of moving

parts

normally found with overhead valve installations.

The reason for this is that the camshaft bears directly on the top of the tappet which in turn is in direct contact with the valve stem. To carry out a rough check allow the engine to run until it reaches its normal operating temperature and then carefully listen for a tapping noise coming from the engine top cover. If this is evident the car should be taken

to the local BLMC garage for attention. This is not a job within the scope of this handbook as special tools are required. CONTACT BREAKER 1 Contact breaker points 2 Contact plate securing screw 3 Screwdriver slot

POINT ADJUSTMENT 4 Moving contact spring and terminals securing nut

18 Check fan belt adjustment If the fan belt is too loose it will slip, wear rapidly and cause the dynamo (alternator) and water pump to malfunction. If the belt is too

tight the dynamo

(or alternator)

and

water

pump bearings will wear rapidly causing premature failure of these components. The fan belt tension is correct when there is 0.5 inch of lateral movement (use your thumb and forefinger) at the mid point position of the belt between the dynamo (or alternator) and water pump pulley wheel, To adjust the fan belt, slacken

the

dynamo

(or alternator)

bolts and move either in or correct tension is obtained. It bolts are only slackened a little little force to move the dynamo

19 DISTRIBUTOR

LUBRICATION

POINTS

4 Cam spindle and

1 Cam lobes 2 Pivot post 3 Centrifugal device

centre screw

lubrication aperture

mounting

out until the is easier if the so it requires a (alternator).

Check operation of distributor automatic

advance/retard Check the operation of the automatic advance/retard system by first releasing the two distributor cap retaining clips and lifting off the distributor cap. Hold the rotor arm between the finger and thumb and turn in the normal direction of rotation (shown by an arrow on the rotor arm). Release the rotor arm and if all is well it should return to its original position without any signs of binding or sticking. Using a screwdriver check that the moving base plate is free to move. 20 Clean and adjust distributor contact breaker points

To clean and adjust the contact breaker points, first release the two clips securing the distributor cap to the distributor body and lift away the cap. Also lift away the rotor arm from the top of the cam.spindle. To remove the CHECKING

THE SPARK PLUG GAP

points, unscrew the terminal nut and remove it

together with the steel washer under its head.

30

Routine Maintenance

Remove the flanged nylon bush and then the condenser lead and the low tension lead from the terminal pin. Lift off the contact breaker arm and then remove the large fibre washer from the terminal pin. The adjustable contact breaker plate is removed by unscrewing the one holding down

screw and removing it, complete

with spring and flat washer. To reface the points, rub their faces on a fine carborundum stone, pointed file or fine emery paper. It is important that the faces are rubbed flat and parallel to each other so that there will be complete face to face contact when

the points are closed. One of the points will be pitted and the other will have a deposit on it. It is necessary

to

remove

completely

the

built up deposits but not so necessary to rub the pitted point right down to the stage where all the pitting has disappeared, though obviously if

this is done it will prolong the time before the operation

of

refacing

the

points

has

to

b

repeated. To replace the contact

: breaker points, first position the adjustable contact breaker plate and secure it in position with its screw, spring and flat washer. Fit the fibre washer to the terminal pin and fit the contact breaker arm over it. Insert the flanged nylon bush with the condenser lead immediately under its head and low tension lead under that, over the terminal pin. Fit the

steel washer and screw on the securing nut. Rotate the engine until the contact breaker arm is on the peak of one of the four cam lobes. A 0.015 inch (0.381 mm) feeler gauge should just fit between the points. With the contact plate securing screw loose, adjust the contact gap by inserting a screwdriver in the notched hole at the end of the plate. Turning clockwise decreases the gap and turning anti-

clockwise increases the gap. With the gap correctly set tighten the contact plate securing screw and check the gap again. Replace the rotor arm and distributor cap and clip the two spring blade retainers into position.

21

Distributor lubrication Spring back the two clips and remove the distributor cap. Lift off the rotor arm. Apply a few drops of thin oil over the screw in the centre of the cam spindle and on the moving contact breaker pivot. Apply a smear of grease to the cam surface. Remove any excess oil or grease with a clean rag. Apply a few drops of oil through the hole in the contact breaker base

plate to lubricate the automatic timing control. Replace the rotor arm and distributor cap. 22 Spark plugs - clean and adjust Before removing a spark plug, remove any dust or dirt from around its location in the cylinder head. Disconnect the HT lead and with a plug spanner remove the spark plug taking care not to damage the insulator. Examine the end of the spark plug and it will probably be noticed that there will be considerable deposits of carbon on the threaded body and the central electrode which will reduce the efficiency of the plug. Carefully remove the carbon with a wire brush and trim the electrodes with emery cloth or a very fine file. Reset the points to the recommended gap. of 0.024 to 0.026 inch (0.61 to 0.66 mm) by bending the side electrode, taking the greatest care not to touch the centre electrode as any pressure at the front can damage the .internal part of the insulator. Recheck the gap again using feeler gauges. If the spark plug is in a very dirty condition it is preferable to have the cleaning carried out on a special sand blasting machine as used by most garages. Cleaning is done under pressure and the interior of the plug can be thoroughly cleaned which is not possible when using a wire brush. A spark plug which is very oily can be cleaned in petrol but do not soak for too long otherwise the petrol will soak into the insulator and can

cause internal short circuiting. Whenever possible fit new plug washers as these keep the plug joint gas tight. The initial inspection of the spark plug can tell the owner a considerable amount about the condition of his engine. The ideal plug deposits should be grey in colour with a light carbon deposit and an insulator just tinged with

brown. White electrodes indicate too weak a carburettor setting and heavy oil deposits fouling the electrodes indicate surplus lubricant in the cylinder. Replace the plug making sure the washer is in position and screw the plug home lightly and accurately by hand to avoid stripping the thread using the plug spanner only for the final

turn. DO NOT overtighten. 23 Clutch clearance To ensure correct clutch operation there should be a clearance of 0.052 inch (1.321 mm) between the clutch release lever and its return

stop, both being located at the top of the clutch

Routine Maintenance

31

vival

(Aaa 3,

73

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oe gs

st

\

|= Le,32

5\

| EF

Se

4) |

ie i

iyAe

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QD

;

ae

:

aN

D © [srs

3.

4 CLUTCH OPERATING 7 Stop locknut 2 Stop

LEVER AND STOP CLEARANCE 3 0.052 in clearance 4 Operating lever

housing. Pull on the clutch release lever to overcome the action of the spring and check the clearance using feeler gauges. If adjustment Is

necessary, Slacken the locknut and with an open ended spanner turn the squared shank at the stop in an anticlockwise direction to decrease the clearance or clockwise to increase the clearance. Retighten the locknut.

24 Inspect tyre tread pattern By looking at the wear pattern of the front tyres it is possible to tell if the wheel alignment is correct. Should the pattern show signs of excessive wear on one side or the edges be ‘feathered’ the car should be taken to the local BLMC garage for their inspection. 25 Check disc brake pad wear

Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of the car and place on firmly based stands. Remove the road wheel. Using a pair of pliers, withdraw the two pad retaining pin locking wire clips and withdraw the retaining pins. The two pads may now be lifted out of the caliper. Inspect the thickness of the lining material and if it is less than 0.125 inch it is recommended that the pads be renewed. If one of the pads is slightly more worn than the other, it is permissible to change these round. Always fit new pads of the manufacturer’s recommended specification. To refit the pads, it is first necessary to extract a little brake fluid from the system. To do this, fit a plastic bleed tube to the bleed screw

and

immerse

the free end

hydraulic fluid in a jar. Slacken

in 1 inch of.

off the bleed

DISC BRAKE

PAD REMOVAL

7 Bleed tube 2 Bleed screw

3 Wire clip retaining pin 4 Brake pads

screw One complete turn and with a piece of wood press back the indirect piston. Next push the yoke towards the disc until the new indirect pad can be inserted. Press back the direct piston into the bore and then tighten the bleed screw. Fit the new direct pad.

Insert the retaining

pins with their

heads

furthermost from the caliper piston and secure with the wire clips. Wipe the top of the hydraulic fluid reservoir and remove the cap. Top up, and then depress the brake pedal several times to settle the pads. Recheck the hydraulic fluid level.

26 Suspension and steering mountings Working underneath the car systematically check the tightness of all nuts, bolts and fixings paying particular reference to steering and suspension mountings. 27 Battery specific gravity check Using an hydrometer check the state of charge and condition of the battery: There should be very little variation between the different cells. If a variation in excess of 0.025 is present the car should be taken to the local garage for further tests. The specific gravity of a fully charged battery should be approximately 1.280.

28 Engine oil change Run the engine until it is hot and then place acontainer of 10 pints (manual transmission) or 13 pints (automatic transmission) capacity under the engine/transmission unit drain plug. Unscrew and remove the drain plug and allow the oil to

32

Routine Maintenance drain out for 10 minutes. Whilst this is being done change the oil filter as described in service operation 29. Clean the oil filler cap in petrol and shake dry. Clean the drain plug and refit.

Refil!. the engine/transmission unit with 8.75 pints (manual transmission) or 13 pints (automatic transmission) of Castrol GTX and clean off any oil which may have been spilt over the engine. Run the engine and check the oil level. The interval between oil changes should be reduced in very hot or dusty conditions or

during cool weather with much slow or stop/ start driving. TAKING A BATTERY SPECIFIC GRAVITY ING WITH AN HYDROMETER

READ-

29 Engine oil filter renewal The engine oil filter is located on the front

right hand side of the transmission casing. Place a container having a capacity of 1 pint under the filter casing and unscrew the centre bolt. Lift away the complete filter assembly. Lift out the element and remove the circlip.

Slide out the centre bolt and lift off the pressure plate, rubber washers, steel washer and the spring from the casing. Thoroughly wash all components in petrol and wipe dry with a clean non-fluffy rag. Inspect the sealing rings and the rubber washer for signs of deterioration

and, if

evident, fit new ones. Reassemble the components and fit a new filter element. Replace the filter assembly to the 7 2 3 4

Centre bolt Element Centre bolt circlip Pressure plate, rubber and steel washers and spring

side of the transmission casing. Secure with the retaining screw which must be tightened fully. 5 Rubber washers and

sealing ring 6 Gasket for filter head

7 Centre bolt sealing ring 8 Filter head

30 Dynamo lubrication To lubricate the dynamo rear bearing insert three drops of engine oil in the small oil hole in the centre of the commutator end bracket (rear bracket) using an oil can with a long nozzle. The front dynamo bearing is pre-packed with grease and requires no attention.

31

Wash

body

and

chrome

fittings, clean

interior Full details of this operation in the bodywork section.

will be found

32 Fuel line check Check all fuel lines and union joints for leaks. Tighten any slack unions as necessary. 33

Examine exhaust system for leaks Examination of the exhaust pipe and silencer at regular intervals is worthwhile as small defects DYNAMO

REAR BEARING

LUBRICATION

almost

may

be

certainly

repairable

require

but,

renewal.

if left, will

Also

leaks,

Routine Maintenance apart from the noise factor, may cause poisonous exhaust gases to find their way inside the car.

Prolongedinhalation even of mild concentrations will cause sickness and giddiness. For small

EXHAUST SYSTEM

33

holes use Holts Silencer Seal or for larger holes and cracks use Holts Gun Gum silencer bandage. Follow the instructions for use which are given on the pack.

(LEFT) CABLE OPERATED GEAR CHANGE (RIGHT) ROD OPERATED GEAR CHANGE

34

Routine Maintenance

34 Wheel balance If a vibration is felt on the steering wheel at certain road speeds it is usually an indication

that the front wheels need balancing. This may be done by the local BLMC garage using special equipment.

35 Wheel position change To equalise tyre wear some owners prefer to

change positions of the wheels. This should be done in the pattern shown in the illustration. 36 Windscreen wiper spindle lubrication Lubricate

the

washer

around

the

wiper

spindles with several drops of glycerine. Do not use oil or grease.

EVERY 12,000 MILES (20,000 KM) OR 12 MONTHS (whichever is sooner) Carry out 6000 mile service as applicable plus:

37 Ventilation air filter element renewal The ventilation air filter is located next to the clutch slave cylinder. Undo and remove the screw, washer and cover and lift away the element. Discard the old element and fit a new one to the filter body: Replace the cover and secure with the screw and washer. 38 Air cleaner element renewal Release the rubber clip that holds the speedometer drive cable to the air intake tube. Unscrew the centre bolt and lift away the air cleaner assembly, the base from the cover and using a screwdriver disengage the clip and remove the element. Wash out the air cleaner in petrol and wipe dry using a clean non-fluffy rag. Fit a new element and refit the cover to the base. Refitting to the carburettor is the reverse sequence to removal. It will be seen

VENTILATION AIR FILTER ASSEMBLY 1 Cover retaining screw 2 Cover

3 Filter element 4 Filter body

that there are two positions

of the air cleaner air intake depending on the

ambient temperature. To adjust the position slacken the centre bolt and turn the whole air cleaner assembly either clockwise or anticlockwise to the required position. Maxi HL only:

Undo

and

remove

the two

wing nuts and

washers that secure the top cover to the air cleaner body. Lift away the top cover. The two elements may now be lifted out. Wipe out the air cleaner body with a petrol moistened rag. Fit new elements and replace the top cover.

AIR CLEANER 1 Centre bolt 2 Base

ASSEMBLY 3 Cover 4 Element

Routine Maintenance 39

Fuel

35 pump

gauze

carburettor adjustment To remove the fuel cleaning,

1 Cover retaining screws 2 Fuel pump cover

3 Joint washer 4 Gauge filter

undo

and

filter pump

remove

cleaning

and

gauze filter for the

three

cover

retaining screws. Lift away the domed cover and joint washer followed by the gauze filter from its recess in the pump body. Use an absorbant cloth to soak up petrol in the filter chamber then remove any sediment, if possible, using an air jet. Clean the filter in petrol and remove any solid matter with an old toothbrush. Inspect the cover joint washer for hardening or breaking and obtain a new one if necessary. Refit the filter and cover with joint washer and secure with the three retaining screws. These must be tightened progressively to ensure a petrol tight joint. To adjust and tune the SU carburettor proceed in the following manner. Check the colour of the exhaust at idling speed with the choke fully in. If the exhaust tends to be black, and the tailpipe interior is also black it is a fair indication that the mixture is too rich. If the exhaust is colourless and the deposit in the exhaust pipe is very light grey it is likely that the mixture is too weak. This condition may also be accompanied by intermittent misfiring, while too rich a mixture will be associated with

‘hunting’. Ideally the exhaust should be colour-

less with a medium grey pipe deposit. The exhaust pipe deposit should only be checked after a good run of at least 20 miles. Idling in city traffic and stop/start motoring is bound to produce excessively dark exhaust pipe deposits.

CARBURETTOR

ADJUSTMENT

POINTS

1 Of! level in dashpot 4 Piston lifting pin 2 Damper 5 Jet adjusting nut 3 Idle speed adjustment screw

Once the engine has reached its normal operating temperature, detach the carburettor/s air intake cleaner. With twin carburettors disconnect the throttle linkage between them by loosening the throttle shaft levers on the throttle shaft. Only two adjustments are provided on the SU carburettor. Idling speed is governed by the throttle adjusting screw and the mixture strength by the jet adjusting screw. The SU carburettor is correctly adjusted for the whole of its engine revolution range when theidling mixture strength is correct. Idling speed adjustment is effected by the idling adjusting screw. To adjust the mixture set the engine to run at about 1000 rpm by

screwing in the idling screw. If twin SU carbur-

ettors are fitted repeat this procedure for each instrument in turn.

Check

the mixture

strength

by lifting the

36

EXPLODED 1 Body

2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Piston lifting pin Spring for pin Sealing washer Plain washer Circlip Piston chamber Screw for chamber Piston

VIEW OF SU CARBURETTOR

10 Spring 11 Needle

19 Progressive throttle linkage 20 Gasket

12 Needle locking screw(1500 only)

21

13 14 15 16 17 18

22 23. 24 25 26 27

Piston damper Sealing washer Throttle adjusting screw Spring for screw Spacer Gasket

P

Throttle return spring Float chamber Adaptor Bolt for float chamber

Spring washer Plain washer

Float (1500 only) 28 Hinge pin for float 29 Lid for float chamber 30 Gasket Needle and seat Screw for lid Spring washer Baffle plate Throttle spindle Throttle disc Screw for disc Washer for spindle Throttle return lever Cam stop screw

Spring for screw Nut for spindle

Tab washer for nut (1500 only} Jet assembly Nut Washer Gland Ferrule 75 18 17 18

Jet bearing Washer

Jet locking nut Spring Jet adjusting nut Pick up lever and link Screw for link Bracket for link Cam lever Washer

Spring for cam lever Spring for pick up lever Pivot bolt Pivot tube - inner Pivot tube - outer Distance washer Throttle lever rod Bush

Washer (early 1500 units only) Lock washer Piston guide

Screw for guide Tension spring Anchor tag 1750 only

Spring Needle Support guide for needle Support guide lock screw Tab washer for nut Plastic float

| i

Routine Maintenance piston of the carburettor approximately 1/32 inch with the piston lifting pin so as to disturb the airflow as little as possible. If:

1 the speed of the engine increases appreciably the mixture is too rich 2 the engine speed immediately decreases the mixture is too weak 3 the engine speed increases very slightly the mixture is correct

_

To enrich the mixture

rotate the adjusting

screw, which is the screw at the bottom of the carburettor, in an anticlockwise direction, ie downwards. To weaken the mixture rotate the

jet adjusting screw in a clockwise direction, ie upwards. Only turn the adjusting screw a flat at a time and check the mixture strength between each turn. It is likely that there will be a slight increase or decrease in rpm after the mixture adjustment has been made so the throttle idling adjusting screw should now be turned so that the engine idles at between 600 and 700 rpm. If the car is fitted with twin SU carburettors it will be necessary to synchronise them so that they are both adjusted to give an equal contribution of petrol/air change to the inlet manifold. First ensure that the mixture is correct in each instrument. With twin SU carburettors, in addition to the mixture strength being correct for each instrument, the idling suction must be equal on both. It is best to use a vacuum synchronising device such as the Motor meter synchro tester. If this is not available it is possible to obtain fairly accurate synchronisation .by listening to the hiss made by the air flow into the intake throats of each carburettor. The aim is to adjust the throttle butterfly disc so that an equal amount of air enters each carburettor. Loosen the throttle shaft levers on the throttle shaft which connects the two throttle disc splines. Listen to the hiss from each carburettor and if a difference in intensity is

noticed

between

them,

then

unscrew

the

throttle adjusting screw on the other carburettor until the hiss from both the carburettors is the same. With the vacuum synchronisation device all that is necessary to do is to place the instrument over the mouth of each carburettor in turn and adjust the adjusting screws until the reading on the gauge is identical for both carburettors. Tighten the levers on the interconnecting linkage to connect the throttle disc of the two carburettors together, at the same time holding

37

down the throttle adjusting screws against their idling stops. Synchronisation of the two carburettors is now complete. 40

Fit new spark plugs

For

removal

and refitting see Service

Item

22: 41

Check steering and suspension Most steering problems originate from normal wear and tear once the car has covered a high mileage, but they may be classified under various headings. Should the steering be stiff in operation then the first thing to do is to raise the front end and place on firmly based stands. Do not forget to apply the handbrake and chock the rear wheels. Now turn the steering wheel slowly from one lock to the other and then back again. If no stiffness is felt the following items may be at fault and should be checked: a) Incorrect pressures b) Loose steering rack mountings which will allow the rack housing to move on its mounting c) Incorrect steering geometry - take the car to the local BLMC garage for a steering geometry check d) Check the Hydrolastic system pressures - this must be done by the local BLMC garage.

If it was noticed that there was stiffness when the steering wheel was rotated with the weight of the car off the ground the following additional points could be the cause of the trouble:

a) Lack of lubricant in the steering rack b) Steering

rack

damper

over

steering overhaul c) Misaligned steering column shaft

adjusted

with

after

the pinion

In the last two cases the car should be returned to the persons who removed or overhauled the steering system for further attention. If steering wobble or vibration is experienced even on the smoothest of road surfaces, the cause of the trouble could be:

a) Wheels out of balance

b) Buckled wheel c) Loose steering joints and suspension mountings d) Incorrect front wheel alignment

38

Routine Maintenance

FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT Dimension ‘A’ must be 1/16 in less than dimension

“B’

ili REAR BRAKE

REAR BRAKE DRUM REMOVAL 7 Dust cap 2 Split pin

4 Plain washer 5 Brake drum

3 Castellated nut

1 Leading shoe

5 Trailing shoe

2 Wheel cylinder 3 Abutment for trailing

6 Return spring (plain) 7 Return spring (shaped)

shoe 4 Anti-rattle spring assembly

8 Adjuster

Also check all the steering geometry angles. Take the car to the local BLMC garage. When driving along a well-maintained, straight road and there is a tendency for the car to pull to one side the cause could be:

bladed

a) Incorrect tyre pressures

right hand

screwdriver,

b) Incorrect front wheel alignment c) Brakes binding on one side of the car

away

42

ference,

Drum

brake shoes - inspection, removal and

carefully

prise off the hub

dust cap. Now with a pair of pliers, straighten the ears of the hub nut split pin and withdraw the split pin. Undo and remove the hub nut. Note that the left hand

replacement After high mileages it will be necessary to fit replacement shoes with new linings. Remove the wheel trim, loosen off the wheel nuts, jack up the rear of the car and support on firmly based stands. Remove the road wheel. Release the handbrake and back off the brake shoe adjuster by turning in an anticlockwise direction when viewed from the centre of the car. Using a wide

COMPONENTS

hub

has a left hand

hub

thread, and the

has a right hand thread.

the plain spacing washer.

Lift

Lift away

the

brake drum and hub. If it is tight use a soft faced hammer and tap outwards on the circumrotating

the

drum

whilst

completing

this operation. The brake linings should be renewed if they are so worn that the rivet heads are flush with

the surface of the lining. If bonded

linings are

fitted, they

the

must

be renewed

when

lining

material has worn down to 0.0625 inch at its thinnest point. Using a pair of pliers, release the trailing brake shoe anti-rattle springs by rotating through

Routine Maintenance 90°. Lift away the steady pin, spring and cup washer. Disengage the trailing shoe from the wheel cylinder abutment and then the abutment link in the adjuster linkage. Remove the leading shoe anti-rattle spring in the same manner as for the trailing shoe. Carefully remove both brake shoes complete with springs, at the same time easing the handbrake operating lever from the leading shoe. Take care that the links in the adjuster housing do not fall out and retain them with an elastic band around the adjuster assembly. If the shoes

39

44

Inspect HT leads for deterioration It is rarely appreciated that the amount of high tension current leakage that can occur

through damaged cables can be considerable, causing a drop in engine performance. Examine each cable for damage to the insulation caused by heat or rubbing. Also examine the cable connections at the distributor, spark plugs and centre of the ignition coil. Moisture can seep down these joints giving rise to a white corrosive deposit

which,

if evident,

must

be carefully

removed from the end of the cable.

are to be left off for a while do not depress the

brake pedal, otherwise the piston will be ejected from the cylinder. Thoroughly clean all traces of dust from the shoes, backplate and brake drums using a stiff brush. Brake dust can cause judder or squeal and therefore it is important to thoroughly remove all dust. Check that the piston is free in the cylinder, that the rubber dust covers are undamaged and in position, and that there are no hydraulic fluid leaks. Ensure the handbrake lever assembly is free and the brake adjuster operates correctly. Lubricate the threads on the adjuster wedge with a graphite based penetrating oil. Prior to reassembly, smear a trace of Castrol PH Grease to the steady platforms, both ends of the brake shoes and the adjuster links. Do not allow any grease to come into contact with the linings or rubber parts. Refit the shoes in the reverse sequence to removal, taking care that the adjuster links are correctly positioned in the adjuster housing with the angle of the link registering against the adjuster wedge. The two pull off springs should preferably be renewed every time new shoes are fitted and must be refitted in their original web holes. Position them between the web and backplate. Back off the adjuster and replace the brake drum and hub assembly. Refit the plain washer ,and castellated nut, tightening the latter to a

torque wrench setting of 60 lb f ft (8.30 kg f m). Align to the next split pin hole and lock with a new split pin. Do not pack the dust cap with grease. Replace the road wheel. Adjust the rear brakes as described in Service Item 12.

Using an

oil can filled with Castrol

all moving

parts

Disconnect

terminals. link bolt dynamo engine. From the nuts, terminal

the two leads from the dynamo

Remove

the nuts from

the sliding

and remove the two upper bolts. The is then free to be lifted away from the

the commutator end bracket remove spring and flat washers from the field (not necessary where Lucar connectors are fitted). Unscrew the two through bolts and remove them together with their spring washers. Take

off the commutator

end bracket,

lift

off the brush springs and draw the brushes out of the brush holders. Check the brushes for wear. Any brush less than 0.25 inch long must be replaced. Check that the brushes move freely and easily in their holders by refitting the brushes in their holders, clean the brushes with a petrol moistened rag and if still stiff lightly polish the side of the brush with a very fine file until the brush moves quite freely and easily in its holder. If the brushes are to be renewed unscrew the screws and lockwashers holding the brush leads to the commutator end bracket. Check the new brushes for freedom of movement as detailed in the previous paragraph. If a small spring pull scale, as used in some kitchens, is available, check the tension of the brush springs. The tension of the springs when

43 Handbrake system lubrication lubricate linkage.

45 Examine dynamo brushes Before the dynamo brushes can be inspected the dynamo must be removed and partially dismantled. To do this proceed as follows: Slacken the two dynamo retaining bolts and the nut on the sliding link and move the dynamo in towards the engine so that the fan belt can be removed.

GTX

of the handbrake

new should be 26 ounces (737.087 gms) and a minimum allowable tension is 18 ounces (510.29 gms) below which new springs must be fitted.

40

Routine Maintenance Reassembly is the reverse sequence to removal. A point worth noting is that when fitting the commutator end bracket with the brushes attached, it is far easier to slip the brushes over the commutator if the brushes are raised

in their holders and held in this position by the pressure of the springs resting against their flanks, rather than on their heads.

Refitting the dynamo is the reverse sequence to removal. The fan belt tension must be adjusted, details of which are given in Service

Operation 18.

46 Fit new windscreen wiper blades HT LEAD INSPECTION

To

fit new

wiper

blades

use

a small elec-

trician’s screwdriver and depress the spring through the hole in the wiper blade to arm link and pull the blade away from the arm. Insert the arm into the arm tink on the wiper blade and

push until the spring clips into the locating hole in the arm link.

47 Steam clean underside of the car and engine compartment

Visit your local main agent and have the

DYNAMO

BRUSHES

REMOVAL ARROWED)

(BRUSH HOLDERS

underside of the body steam cleaned. At the same time the engine compartment should be cleaned. This will take about 1% hours. All traces of dirt and oil will be removed and the underside can then be inspected carefully for rust, damaged hydraulic pipes, frayed electrical wiring and similar maladies. If steam cleaning facilities are not available then brush on Gunk or a similar cleaner over the whole engine and engine compartment with a stiff paintbrush, working it well in where there is an accumulation of oil and dirt. Do not paint the ignition system but protect it with oily rags when the Gunk is washed off. As the Gunk is washed away it will take with it all traces of oil and dirt, leaving the engine and engine compartment looking clean and bright.

EVERY YEARS

24,000 MILES (40,000 (whichever is sooner)

Carry out plus:

12,000

KM)

OR

2

mile service as applicable

48 Check hub bearings for wear OLD AND

NEW BRUSHES

COMPARED

Jack up each wheel in turn. Grasp the wheel and

try to

rock.

If movement

is evident,

the

car should be taken to the local BLMC garage for further investigation. Dismantling the hub Is not considered

handbook.

to be within

the scope

of this

Routine Maintenance

41

WINDSCREEN WIPER ARM AND BLADE CONNECTIONS 1 2 3 4

Arm locking clip Wheelbox spindle Blade locking clip Blade location on arm

5 Rubber insert

6 Insert stiffener

49 Check tightness of battery earth lead on the bodywork Make sure that the battery earth strap is free of corrosion and that it is securely attached to the body panel. If difficult starting is experienced although the battery is fully charged, the battery terminals are clean and yet the starter motor does not rotate the engine fast enough to start the engine, remove the nut and bolt securing the battery earth lead to body and clean the mating faces free of corrosion.

50 Fit new condenser to distributor Although it is unusual for a condenser to suddenly fail it is recommended that it be changed as a matter of routine because its performance can gradually deteriorate. It is important that a condenser of value 0.2 microfarad is fitted otherwise the performance of the ignition system will be affected.

To

fit a mew

condenser

release

the two

distributor cap securing clips and lift away the cap followed by the rotor arm. Undo the small nut that secures the two cables to the terminal

_ post. Lift off the nut, steel washer and flanged nylon bush. Undo and remove the small Phillips head screw and spring washer securing the condenser to the baseplate, taking extreme care not to drop these parts into the distributor. The condenser may now be lifted away. Refitting the new condenser is the reverse procedure to removal.

51

Remove starter motor and examine brushes Dismantling the starter motor for inspection

of the brushes and cleaning of the drive assembly is considered to be out of the scope of this handbook as at the same time the motor armature and field coils should also be tested, this requiring special test equipment.

52 Test cylinder compressions Some owners like to have the cylinder compression pressures checked and this is done by inserting a special recording pressure gauge into each spark plug hole in turn and rotating the engine a couple of turns using the starter motor. It is desirable that each of the four cylinders gives approximately the same reading. Obviously this equipment will not be found in a normal home workshop so this test must be left to the local BLMC garage.

53 Drain brake hydraulic system and refill with fresh fluid The manufacturers recommend that every 24,000 miles (40,000 km) or 24 months, whichever

is earlier, the hydraulic fluid in the

braking system be completely changed. This is because brake fluid over a period of time will absorb air and moisture through the reservoir breather hole and, because of this, the character-

istics will alter. In conditions of excessive use of the brakes, such as when going down a steep hill, there are possibilities of the fluid over-

heating or boiling causing brake failure. Discuss this requirement with your local BLMC garage who will have the facilities to carry out the operation easily and quickly.

42

Routine Maintenance 54 Completely overhaul brake hydraulic system For safety reasons the manufacturers recommend that the complete brake hydraulic system be dismantled, inspected and new rubber seals

fitted throughout. This is a task for the qualified garage.

;

55 Brake bleeding Bleeding the hydraulic system

SERVO UNIT AIR FILTER 7 Dust cover 2 End cap

3 Air filter 4 Cut in new element

is not a task

that is carried out automatically every 24,000 miles but it was deemed advisable to include it at this stage for the owner who feels he may need to do this at some time. The hydraulic system will normally only require bleeding if air has entered the system. This can be detected by a spongy feeling on the brake pedal when the brakes are applied. Before actually bleeding the system, carry out the checks listed below. Examine the fluid reservoir cap to ensure that

the vent hole is clear. Check the level of the fluid and top up if required. Check all brake line unions and connections for possible seepage and at the same time check the condition of the rubber flexible hoses which may have perished. If the condition of the wheel cylinders is in doubt,

remove

the brake drums

as previously

described and check for fluid leakage. If there is any possibility of incorrect fluid having been put into the system, the complete system will have to be drained, flushed with methylated spirits and all the rubber seals and cups renewed. This is a lengthy process and is not within

the scope of this book. Your local

garage can do this job for you or if you wish to do it yourself the Haynes’ Maxi Owner’s Workshop Manual gives full details of the stripping and reassembly of all components. Gather together a clean jam jar, a 9 inch length of tubing which fits tightly over the bleed nipples and a tin of Lockheed fluid. Note: The front disc brake should be bled first unless a tandem

master cylinder is fitted,

in which case the rear brakes must be bled first. To bleed the system, clean the areas round the bleed nipples, remove the rubber cup over the bleed valve, if fitted, and fit the rubber tube over the valve. THERMOSTAT 1 Top cover securing bolt 2 Top cover

3 Gasket

HOUSING 4 Thermostat 5 Thermostat housing

Place the end of the tube in the clean jar containing enough fluid to keep the end of the tube immersed in fluid during the bleeding operation. Open the bleed valve one turn with a spanner and quickly press down the brake pedal. After

43

Routine Maintenance ———ee—eeeee—_ee

a

slowly releasing the pedal, pause for a moment to allow the fluid to recoup in the master cylinder and then depress quickly again. This action will force any air from that part of the system. Continue this process until no more air bubbles can be seen coming from the tube..At intervals make certain that the reservoir is kept topped up, otherwise air will enter at this point again. Once no more air bubbles appear from the tube,

tighten down the bleed valve. Repeat this operation on

the other front brake, then the two rear brakes. When completed, check the level of the fluid in the reser-

voir and then check that all feel of sponginess has disappeared from the brake pedal. When a tandem master cylinder is fitted a slightly different technique is required. Attach two bleed tubes to right hand front and right hand rear brakes and bleed both at the same

eee

heater hoses for signs of leaking. The hoses must be in good condition without signs of cracking, perishing or softening. Do not forget to inspect

the heater tap and thermostat housing for signs of leaking. The reason for this thorough investigation is that antifreeze has a very great searching power and if there is a minor fault within the system it will be sure to find it. Also it has a tendency to loosen scale or dirt in the cooling system. Before refilling the cooling system it should be thoroughly flushed out. Inspect the core plugs, which look like discs, to be found on the side of the cylinder block. These should show no signs of leaking or corrosion. If they are suspect your local garage will be able to advise you.

Cooling system - draining If the engine

EVERY YEARS

Renew servo filter Pull back the servo unit dust cover and ease off the end cap with a screwdriver. Remove the old filter. To fit a new filter cut it diagonally to the centre hole and then fit it over the pushrod and into the housing. Replace the end cap and dust cover.

result in the water boiling. With the pressure released the cap can be removed. ZF Remove the drain plug in the bottom ofthe radiator lower tank. When viewed from the side the plug is on the bottom left hand side of the radiator. Also remove the engine drain plug which is located at the front left hand side of the cylinder block halfway down the casting. When the water has finished running, probe the drain plug orifices with a short piece of wire to dislodge any particles of rust or sediment

57 Winter protection and use of antifreeze

which may be causing a blockage.

Carry out 24,000 plus:

KM)

OR

3

mile service as applicable

56

The winter

use of months

an antifreeze solution in the is a necessary precaution to

safeguard against the coolant freezing and causing irreparable damage to the engine. |t is important that an antifreeze with -

‘an ethylene glycol base is used otherwise there is a risk of internal corrosion of the waterways and the water pump impeller. The antifreeze should be mixed in a container of suitable capacity (the capacity of the cooling system is 9.125 pints) so that it can be prepared with a couple of pints left over for topping up the cooling system at a later

date. Before the antifreeze solution is poured into

the radiator thoroughly check all radiator and

clockwise.

radiator

by turning

the filler cap

from

36,000 MILES (60,000 (whichever is sooner)

the

is cold, remove

time, in the same manner as for a single master cylinder except that the brake pedal must not be fully depressed at any time except when the complete system has been fully bled. Repeat the previous operation for the left hand front and left hand rear brakes.

the

cap

anti-

If the engine is hot, then turn the

filler cap very slightly until pressure in the system has had time to release. Use a rag over the cap to protect your hand from escaping steam. If, with the engine very hot the cap is released

suddenly,

the

drop

in

pressure

can

It is important to note that neither the expansion tank nor the heater can be drained so during cold weather an antifreeze solution must be used. Always use an antifreeze with an ethylene glycol or glycerine base.

Cooling system - flushing With time the cooling system will gradually lose its efficiency as the radiator becomes choked with rust, scale deposits from the water and other sediment. To clean the system out, remove the radiator filler cap and drain plug and leave a hose running in the filler cap neck for ten to fifteen minutes. In very bad cases the radiator should be reverse flushed. This can be done with the

44 radiator refitted adaptor under

Routine Maintenance in position. The cylinder block plug is and a hose with a suitable tapered placed in the drain plug hole. Water pressure is then forced through the

radiator and

out of the header

tank

filler cap

neck. It is recommended if the engine is cool, to place some polythene over the engine to stop water finding its way into the ignition system.

Cooling system - filling Refit the cylinder block and radiator drain plugs. Fill the system slowly to ensure that no air locks develop.

Check that the valve in the heater is open (control to HOT), otherwise an air lock may form in the heater. The best type of water to use in the cooling system is rain water, use _ this whenever possible when mixing the antifreeze solution. : Completely fill the radiator, replace the cap, remove the expansion chamber cap and check that it is half full of coolant. Replace the expansion chamber cap and turn it firmly in a clockwise direction to lock it in position. Run the engine at a fast idle speed for approximately half a minute and remove the filler cap slowly. Top up if necessary to the top of the filler neck and replace the cap.

Bodywork- Maintenance, cleaning, minor repairs Introduction Most owners like their cars to look clean, well polished and free of rust. Not only does regular cleaning show up stone chips or rust marks which can be easily attended to before getting worse, but the appearance is also maintained which ensures a good re-sale price

First empty the under dash panel tray, rear parcel shelf, under the front seats and the luggage compartment of all the bits and pieces that have collected over the last few months of motoring, and place in a large cardboard box ready for sorting out and replacing.

for the car. Regular car

and underfelt. The rubber mats may be washed if very dirty or just shaken to remove loose dirt. The carpeting may be brushed, shaken or beaten to remove the dust and dirt. If badly marked they can be washed using a carpet shampoo and laid out to dry in the sun. Underfelt should be carefully shaken but not washed or beaten otherwise it will be difficult to dry and may start to break up. If the carpeting around the pedals is worn it is recommended that it be renewed otherwise it can be a danger especially for lady drivers wearing heeled shoes. Next lift out the rear seat cushion which will give better access for the operations following. Using a vacuum cleaner with a flexible hose, remove all traces of dust and grit that accumulate over the months of motoring. With a suitable upholstery cleaner diluted as recommended by the manufacturer wash down

some

cleaning can be considered

as a necessary

by

evil and only to be done

when absolutely necessary, whilst others enjoy this aspect of car care far more than the routine mechanical maintenance. The secret is to keep the car clean all the time so that it is

not allowed to become too dirty, making the work all that more difficult. If you do not feel like doing the job all at one go then divide it into sections as done here in this Chapter and do a little each week. This will give a continuous cleaning programme and enable you to do other jobs as well so as to break the monotony. Should the car have been recently acquired

and it is in a dirty state then take it along to the local BLMC garage and have the whole of the

underside and engine compartment steam cleaned. This will save a tremendous amount of time. It is a very dirty job to do at home. It will not take long and it is well worthwhile. Once clean it can

be

kept

clean.

See

‘materials

needed’

section at the end of the chapter before starting.

Car cleaning - interior Many car owners leave interior cleaning to

tj

last and

prefer to wash the exterior first. This

is really working

backwards

Lift out the rubber slip mats, the carpeting

all upholstery

will

for. When the carpeting is removed, water leaks will be evident and the necessary corrective action can be taken before rust sets in.

cause

excessive

stubborn stains. or soap with a dry with a clean much water as it condensation in the car

unless it is a hot day, and the doors may have to be left open for a while.

because the dust

created by removal of carpets will only settle on the clean exterior. By regularly cleaning the interior the upholstery will remain in good ‘nearly new’ condition, the carpets fresh and clean and the general appearance looking smart and well cared

on the seats, body trim and roof

lining. Use a neat solution on Wipe off all traces of cleaner moistened cloth and finally rub non-fluffy rag. Do not use too

and

The interior paintwork may next be cleaned polished using a domestic aerosol polish

and a clean non-fluffy rag. Door handles and chrome trim should be lightly rubbed with a moistened cloth. To

clean

the

interior

glass, interior

mirror

and instrument cluster glass add a little methylated spirits to water and wipe over with a soft cloth. Do not use ordinary domestic cleaners as they can cause smearing.

46

Bodywork - Maintenance, Cleaning and Minor Repairs

Inspect the seat belts for damage and make sure that the anchorages are still firm. The webbing may be washed in warm soapy water and wiped dry with an old towel. Wash down the door boot lid and bonnet apertures and also the edges of the doors, boot lid and bonnet. Remove all traces of lubricant with a paraffin moistened cloth. Take care to clean around the door hinges and locks as these

which is obtainable from the local distributor’s body trim department. The time has now come for touching-up the interior paintwork and full details for this will be found later in this Chapter. Once the paint is dry, the rear seat cushion and carpeting may be refitted followed by the articles that live on the parcel shelf and in the boot. This is a good time to check the contents

are dust traps. With a piece of wire probe the door drain holes to make sure that they are free from blockage. Inspect the floor pan for signs of

should be made up. Check the tools in the car tool roll and lubricate the threads of the jack. Stow away the contents of the luggage compart-

rusting or leaking at the various seams. De-rust using Kurust and seal with a flexible sealing

situated where it will not slide around or rattle.

compound such as Seelastik. Whilst the front doors are open

Car cleaning - exterior (underside)

make

sure

that the little courtesy light switches located in the door pillars operate freely. Check the bulb in the courtesy light for operation or for a disconnected cable at the rear of the switch if

the bulb does not light.

:

Next go round all nuts, bolts and screws and

make sure that all are tight and then lubricate the door locks and hinges, courtesy light switch plunger, choke control and front seat runners to ensure correct and free. movement. Turning to the boot, remove the complete contents including spare wheel and vacuum out all the

accumulated

dust

and

dirt.

Wipe

the

paintwork down with a damp cloth. If carpeting is fitted clean this as well in a similar manner to the interior carpeting. Again look for water leaks especially in the corners and if necessary seal with Seelastik once the rust has been neutralised. Clear the drain holes using a piece of wire. Using an oil can lubricate the handbrake lever assembly and the pedal pivots. Inspect the pedal rubbers for signs of excessive wear and fit new ones if necessary. It is dangerous to drive with worn pedal rubbers - on a wet day it is easy for the foot to accidentally slip off the pedal. Should you have a slight tear on one of the seats or trim panel, cut a piece of spare trim from the underside of one of the seats and apply a coat of impact adhesive such as clear Bostik. Insert the patch into the hole with the glue uppermost and then apply adhesive to the flap of the trim section. Allow the recommended drying time to pass and then press down the torn edges, trying to get the edges as close together as possible which will make the repair less pronounced. Any large tears will have to be repaired using a piece of matching material

of the first aid kit, if carried, and any deficiencies

ment

making sure that the main tool kit is so

It'was recommended in the introduction to this Chapter that if the car is in a dirty state it be taken to the local agents for steam cleaning. With the underside relatively clean it is an easy matter to keep it clean. Remove the interior carpeting and contents of the boot. Jack up the car as high as possible and remove .the road wheels. With a garden hose, a stiff brush, tin of paraffin and scraper and, of course, suit-

ably clad for a soaking, soak the dirt accumulated under the wheel arches and crevices, loosening where necessary with the hand scraper. This will require time and patience but work systematically front to rear removing dirt and oil. Whilst the underside of the car is drying check the seams for signs of leaking. Also generally check the tightness of all visible nuts and bolts and make sure the various pipes and wires are securely clipped to the underside of the body floor pan. Inspect the underside for signs of rusting and, if evident, clear with a wire brush and neutralise with Kurust. When the underside is really dry seal any leaking seams

with a flexible sealing compound. Wipe off the Kurust with a rag soaked in methylated spirits and apply a coat of suitable red oxide cellulose primer surfacer. Allow to dry and if the part is visible finish off with a coat of Holts car enamel spray of the matching body paint colour. Any underbody sealer requires regular inspection to make sure that there are no loose flakes. If this is evident, scrape off the loose area

and remove any rust as described in the last paragraph. Apply a coat of red oxide cellulose primer surfacer and allow to dry. Underbody sealer is available in a brush-on form, although

when applied fresh at the garage it is sprayed on. A tin of this should be obtained and brushed on

Bodywork - Maintenance, Cleaning and Minor Repairs

47

WITH A PIECE OF WIRE, PROBE THE BODY AND DOOR DRAIN HOLES TO MAKE SURE THEY ARE FREE FROM BLOCKAGE

using a 2 inch paintbrush. On the wheel arches it is recommended that, because of stones being thrown up by the tyres, two coats are applied with time allowed for drying between each coat. Finally before lowering the car to the ground again check the exhaust system for leaks with the engine running. Take care not to allow the engine to run for too long otherwise there may be an accumulation of exhaust fumes under the car.

Car cleaning- exterior

_

spirit on a soft cloth. Do not forget to clean the wing mirrors, front grille, the wiper blades and, of course, the wheels with the hub caps removed. A leather must not be used with a

detergent or shampoo as it will cause it to rot. Finally rinse off all the suds with plenty of clean water and wipe dry using a leather. Wipe all spots

and smears

from the windscreen,

rear

screen and door glass using the leather. When the car is dry the glass may be polished with a rag soaked in a methylated spirits and water solution. Chromium plating requires regular cleaning with a damp cloth or leather. Occasion-

It is recommended that once a week the exterior of the car be washed and wiped dry.

ally one of the special polishes for chromium plating may be used but on no account use an

For this job a flexibrush on the end of the garden hose is best and a sponge to assist wiping down and a leather to finish the operation off. First make sure that all windows and doors are closed and place a piece of polythene sheeting over the engine behind the grille to shield the electrics, providing that the engine has not just been run, for obvious safety reasons. Thoroughly wet the car with water using a gentle spray. Take care not to aim the jet of water directly at the windows or body seams which could start water leaks. Once the dirt has been loosened wipe down the panels using the brush with water still running through it as this way the paintwork should not be scratched by road grit. Next apply wax car shampoo or a little non-

ordinary metal polish. Every six months it is recommended that the exterior be wax polished. There are however several important points to be noted before polish is used on a car. 1 If the car is new do not polish for at least two months to allow the paint to dry fully and harden. 2 If part of the paintwork has been resprayed allow at least two months to dry fully and harden. 3 Do not use a cutting paste to remove the dull film from cars sprayed with:a metallic paint. 4 When purchasing a wax polish always make sure that it is suitable for the type of pdintwork on the car.

5

Do not attempt to wax

polish a car which

detergent washing up liquid, working from the

has just been washed because paintwork absorbs

roof

moisture slightly and the wax coating can hold this moisture so giving an effect called ‘micro

marks

downwards. or

tar

may

Any be

stubborn removed

dead using

flies, white

48

Bodywork - Maintenance, Cleaning and Minor Repairs

blistering’ caused by minute rust spots under the paint film. Finally a few ‘Don'ts’ to avoid deterioration of the paintwork. 1 Don’t dust down or polish a dusty car. Always wash.

2 Don’t get polish or wax on any of the glass. 3 Don’t neglect hidden parts of the door when polishing. 4 Don’t leave birdlime on the paintwork - it will cause stains. 5 Don’t park under trees especially in the hot sun or when raining. 6 Don’t use a cutting compound or haze remover on cars finished with an acrylic paint. 7 Don’t use wax without cleaning the car first. Bodywork - paint touch-up On any modern car with an all steel body the greatest enemy of all is rust and this is most likely to start under the wings or along the sills because the road wheels will fling water, mud and grit onto the paint surface and it will only be a matter of time before the paint skin is penetrated and rusting starts. It is for this reason that many

new cars are given a thick coat of .underseal, usually of a bituminous or rubber base, to guard against rusting.

However,

if this was

the end

of the

story paint maintenance would be relatively simple but unfortunately it is not because chips appear

at the

front

of the

wings,

along the

outside of the wing panels and doors as well as the edges of the bonnet and boot lid. Whilst the car is being cleaned these chip marks will become evident and it is important that they are attended to immediately otherwise rusting will occur and spread so that what was once a small chip will gradually turn into a large area requiring a great deal more renovation work. Touch-up paint is usually available in either touch-up pencil, tin with a little brush in the lid or aerosol form and may be obtained as a good match to the original body colour. It must, however,

be

realised

that

some

paint colours

are more stable than others. Due to the action of sunlight on an older car an exact match may be difficult unless a tin of touch-up paint is mixed by the paint department of your local distributor to match the exact colour of your car. The author prefers to use a touch-up tin with brush incorporated in the lid for making good, chips and very small scratches. To prepare the surface for touching-up first

use

a silicone

solvent

to remove

all traces of

polish which will not allow the paint to adhere properly.

If there

are signs of rusting or the

paint beginning to lift use a sharp penknife and carefully scrape away the loose paint and rust.

Then

‘neutralise the rust with a little Kurust

and allow to dry. With a piece of rag soaked in methylated spirits wipe away the dry Kurust. The prepared spot may now be touched in with the touch-up brush. Shake the tin vigorously for a few minutes to ensure that the paint is well mixed and withdraw the brush. Wipe the brush on the inside of the neck of the tin and then dip in the end of the brush until there is a little paint on it just sufficient to touch in the area concerned. Very carefully apply a thin coat of paint only to the area concerned and allow to dry thoroughly. Apply a further thin coat so as to build up the paint to the original paint thickness. This will take time and patience but with care the touch-up should be indistinguishable from the surrounding area. If there is a scratch on the paintwork which has penetrated the top coat of paint and the red primer is showing through, the basic procedure is the same. First remove all traces of polish with a solvent and then with the knife lift off any loose paint. Neutralise any rust and finally touch in the scratch, preferably with one sweep of the brush. For this, a fine brush may

be better than the brush provided with the tin. Build up the paint to, the original paint thickness. The edges of doors and boot lid seem to suffer very much and small areas of rust frequently appear. In this case an aerosol tin of primer and enamel top coat will be required. Again use the silicone solvent to remove any polish from the area concerned. Rub down the paint around the area with a little wet or dry paper grade 400 until the area is smooth. As the name implies the paper can be used either dry or with water. The latter method tends to keep the grit of the paper clear of dust and also acts as a lubricant. Neutralise any rust with Kurust and when dry wipe with a piece of cloth soaked in methylated spirits. Before spraying make sure the car is sheltered from wind and dust. Shake the aerosol tin of primer for a few minutes to ensure that there is no sediment

in the bottom,

usually the manu-

facturer drops ina ball bearing to assist agitation of the paint. If this is the first time that an aerosol tin is being used try it on a piece of metal such as an old tin to get the ‘feel’ of

Bodywork - Maintenance, Cleaning and Minor Repairs

SOME BODYWORK

the spray and then proceed to spray the prepared surface. Remember the success of this work lies in the preparation. The smoother the prepared surface, the better will be the finish. Hold the jet about six inches away from the area to be sprayed and work from the centre outwards, keeping the centre moist and the outside lightly sprayed and dry. When dry, very lightly rub the primer with wet or dry paper to roughen up the surface and inspect the surface for blemishes caused by dust or bad preparation. Rectify any faults by rubbing down again and applying a further coat of primer. It is only when the surface under repair is perfect that the final top coat may be applied. Again experiment on a piece of metal, ' if this is your first time, and when you are confident apply the top coat to the primer. Remember it is like ordinary household paint-

ing - two coat. Should either too go or the

thin coats are better than one thick runs occur it is an indication that much paint has been applied at one nozzle was too near to the surface

being sprayed.

Rub down

the area concerned

and start again. With all touching up, be it a small spot ora larger rusted area, allow the paint to dry

49

REPAIR MATERIALS

thoroughly, at least overnight, and then use.a little rubbing compound to blend in the edges of the paint and remove any dry spray. If the rusted area is near to a piece of chrome trim there is no need to remove it but mask up the chrome trim with a little sellotape or proper masking tape. This may be removed once the paint is half-dry leaving no paint overspray

marks on the trim. Take care when sticking down the tape and use a knife to push the tape around any curved areas.

Should the scratch be only a minor one without penetration through to the undercoat it may be removed using a rubbing compound, but take great care in its use. It may leave a light patch.

Bodywork - deep scratching, dent or crease removal This type of repair requires a little more work but is well within the do-it-yourself motorists’ capabilities, provided that care is taken and the job is not rushed. Again preparation is the secret to good results. The method of approach will depend on the location of the damage but in all cases if it is possible to push the dent or crease out from behind so much

50

Bodywork - Maintenance, Cleaning and Minor Repairs

|

the better. This may mean removal of a piece of

wet or dry paper.

interior trim. Should, however, this present problems then do not worry too much unless

Now using wet 280 grade paper rub down the-complete area taking care to blend the filler

the original shape cannot be achieved (even with building up with a filler). For safety reasons on this next operation wear a pair of goggles or a pair of glasses to protect the eyes. Using an electric sander with

edges to the bare metal. This may take time but remember the preparation determines the quality of finish. z Wipe the complete area dry and inspect again for any blemishes. These must be rectified

an abrasive

at this stage. With the palm of the hand feel the

disc on the rubber

pad remove

all

the paint right down to the bare metal from the area surrounding the damage as well as the damaged area itself. Work the area until all traces of paint including undercoat and primer have been removed and an area of bare metal is

obtained. Next coat the area of bare metal with a special zinc primer such as Galvafroid primer to give additional protection against future corrosion as well as to provide a key for the body filler. Allow to dry thoroughly. The body filler must next be

prepared according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Usually these come in two parts, a tin of filler in paste form and a hardener. Read through the mixing instructions and when fully conversant mix only enough for immediate use to guard against waste as most fillers are expensive and once the hardener has been added the paste has a very limited working time of a few minutes. It is best to mix the hardener using a piece of plastic or very stiff cardboard on a piece of hardboard or plywood. The filler should be applied to the damaged

area and about one inch either side of it so as to allow for preparing the surface for final finishing. Do not apply the filler to paintwork as it will not adhere properly. Carefully smooth the filler to the contour of the body panel but do not try to work the filler once it has started to harden. When the filler has hardened it should be rubbed down using a coarse wet or dry paper grade 120. Do not use an electric sander for this or subsequent operations as its action is too fierce. Carefully rub the smooth surface until the contour matches the rest of the panel and it is relatively smooth. Use the paper either wet or dry. Wash down the area being worked upon and inspect for imperfections and small air holes or areas requiring further building-up. On flat panels use a sanding block but on curved areas just use the paper by itself. Mix some filler and apply where necessary to make good any defects found. When the filler is dry, blend into the rest of the area using

surface

for any

high or

low

spots caused

by

over-ambitious rubbing down and again rectify if evident. When you are entirely satisfied that the area is perfect the next stage is to mask over any adjoining panels or chrome trim with sellotape or masking tape and newspaper.

Apply a coat of Galvafroid Zinc Plate to give

a good key for the primer as well as giving additional rust protection. Allow to dry. The primer may now be applied with a good quality paintbrush which will not moult. Paint the whole of the area under repair and allow to dry. Very lightly rub down the surface with wet 400 grade paper and inspect for any imperfections. Then wash down and allow the moisture to dry. Apply a second coat of primer and again lightly rub down and wash. The repair is now ready for receiving the top

coat. Holding the nozzle about six inches away from the surface spray

behind

any catches

or

fittings first and then work from the centre of the panel outwards until the repaired section of the panel is covered. Make sure that the part overlaps the existing paint by a couple of inches to

allow

for

feathering,

and

Lightly rub down the surface grade paper and allow to dry.

allow

with

to

dry.

wet 400

Now spray on a second top coat and if necessary a third coat until a depth of colour

matches the original paintwork. When

the

final coat

is completely

dry rub

the surface with a soft cloth and some rubbing compound paying particular attention to the areas where the new paint overlaps the original. Wipe off the compound and inspect the finished

result for signs of any blemishes which should be corrected by rubbing down and respraying. Finally remove the masking tape and paper

and lightly NOT apply to allow the Provided

polish with a clean soft cloth. DO a polish for at least two months paint to harden. that care was taken in the selection

of the materials and the instructions followed the results should

be satisfactory, but if something

has gone wrong the following table should be of

(L) SONANDAS

YIVdSY HYOMAGOS

>+YOMAGOS Hivday

AONANDAS (Z)

Bodywork - Maintenance, Cleaning and Minor Repairs assistance:

it well in so as to provide a good key for subsequent layers. Allow it to dry. Continue building up, a layer at a time, until the contour of the body panel has been re-

FAULT

CAUSE

Blotchy finish

Insufficient number of primer or top coats Spray nozzle too near panel during spraying. Too much paint applied Too thick a coat applica-

Paint runs

Rippling (called

orange peel)

53

produced and then allow to dry.

Thereafter follow the instructions given in the last section, shaping and blending the filler to the existing body contour and then finally

paint.

Matt finish

tion Spray nozzle too far away

Before any car cleaning, minor bodywork repair or paintwork is attempted it is recom-

Creasing

from panel. Not all dust removed from previous flatting operation Unsuitable materials used for

ials obtained:

°

Overspray

Rough finish

Faded patches of top coat (called blooming)

primer

or

top

coat

Insufficient masking - use cutting compound to remove it Spraying in dusty or windy conditions Usually caused by spraying in damp conditions. Most pronounced with dark col-

ours Bodywork - serious corrosion Should a body panel such as a lower door panel, leading edge of a wing or sill as opposed to a main structural member be badly corroded it is within the capabilities of a more experienced do-it-yourself owner to make the panel

look as good as new. The first thing to do is to sand down the affected area for a further inspection. Do not forget to wear goggles or glasses to protect the eyes. Use an electric drill with sanding attach-

Materials needed

mended that the following list of possible requirements is studied and the necessary mater-

Car cleaning - interior Vacuum cleaner Carpet brush Carpet shampoo Upholstery cleaner Soft soap (non-caustic)

Clean non-fluffy rags Furniture polish Small bottle methylated spirits Small bottle paraffin Jar Kurust Seelastik flexible sealing compound Bostik impact clear adhesive Oil can

Car cleaning - exterior (underside) Wire brush Jar Kurust Seelastik flexible sealing compound

ment and a coarse disc to remove the paint from the rusted section as well as the immediate

Small bottle methylated spirits Red oxide cellulose primer surfaces Holts car enamel spray (matching colour of

area surrounding the more visible part affected. Next hammer or cut away all affected metal unti! sound metal is reached and then treat with

car) Tin brushing underbody sealer Tin Holts Gun Gum

_Galvafroid Zinc Plate paint to check subsequent

corrosion. Obtain a piece of perforated zinc plate as found in old meat safes and cut off a section larger than the hole produced by the removal of affected metal and inset into the hole. if necessary, moulding it to the shape of the panel. Use paper clips or small self tapping screws to keep

it in place. Mix ‘sufficient filler according to the maker's instructions to apply a thin coat to the zinc plate and immediate surrounding area and work

Car cleaning - exterior Hose and flexibrush Car shampoo Leather Sponge Piece of polythene sheeting about 3 ft square Bottle white spirit Small bottle methylated spirits Clean non-fluffy rags Tin wax polish Tin chrome plate cleaner

Bodywork - Maintenance, Cleaning and Minor Repairs Bodywork - paint touch-up Touch-up tin of matching enamel paint Bottle silicone solvent Jar Kurust Small bottle methylated spirits Wet or dry paper 400 grade Touch-up paint - aerosol - primer Touch-up paint - aerosol - matching enamel paint Sellotape or masking tape Newspaper

Belco rubbing compound Bodywork removal

- deep

scratching,

dent

or

crease

1 pair goggles Electric sander with abrasive disc Galvafroid Primer 1 pack Cataloy body filler 1 piece of plastic or hardboard (approx 3” x

24

WATCH

1 piece of hardboard

or plywood

(approx

1x4) Wet or dry paper grade 120 Wet or dry paper grade 280 Wet or dry paper grade 400 1 tin brushing primer 1 good quality paintbrush Holts car enamel spray (matching colour of

Car) Holts car primer spray

Clean non-fluffy rags Sellotape or masking tape Newspaper Belco rubbing compound

Bodywork - serious corrosion Metal cutters Perforated zinc plate Plus all items mentioned in previous section

FOR RUSTING AT POINTS ARROWED

Preparing your car for the MOT Test On your car’s third birthday from new it must be subjected to the annual MOT test. This means taking the car to a garage which is an official test centre and having the car inspected and road tested by an examiner who has been appointed by the Ministry of Transport and has authority to perform the test. The test should not take more than about three quarters of an hour and will be conducted in three stages; car on a lift or over a pit, car on

the ground and finally a road test. The question is: Will the car pass or not? If you

have

followed

the

recommendations

for

regular routine maintenance and inspection there is a much better chance of it passing without any problems. There is good reason why your car should pass the MOT test first time. The main theme of the test is safety and if any parts of the steering, brakes, tyres and lighting system require attention then the car is not safe to drive. Also it is not within the law to do so. One way of ensuring that the car passes is to carry out your own test before submitting it to the garage and the object of this chapter is to let you know what the examining mechanic will be looking for. Details of how to rectify any faults found that are within the scope of this handbook will be found elsewhere in the book.

Check that all nuts are tight and where applicable have their split pins correctly fitted. Sources of play include the inner track rod ends (adjacent to the rack) and these are adjustable. The outer joints must be renewed if seriously worn. Play in the steering can be due to the rack requiring adjustment. If it is the pinion end it may be cured by adjustment of the pinion but if it is at the other end anew bush will have to be fitted. Check for wear in the upper and lower fixings of the swivel flange and steering lever (vertical link) and if movement is evident this will be a job for the local BLMC garage before the car is submitted for the test. arm

Inspect the bushes on the lower suspension and upper suspension arm for signs of

deterioration or wear. If evident this again is a job for the local BLMC garage. Place which

a

little

earth

on

the

ground

the front tyres will rest and

onto

lower the

car. (The earth will enable the front wheels to be moved easier during the next check.) Turn the steering wheel to full lock in both directions and make sure that the wheels do not foul the bodywork or chassis and chafe the tyres.

Chock the front wheels and jack up the rear

Steering and suspension With the car standing on level ground check the play in the steering wheel. It should move no

‘more than one inch at its outer edge before ‘the wheels begin to move. Open the bonnet and check that the steering rack is firmly mounted on the car. The rack is secured to the body with U bolts and these must be tight. Jack up the front of the car, having first applied the handbrake and rock the wheels to check if there is any wear in the wheel bearings. These will have to be renewed if wear is evident. Rest the front of the car on stands or wooden blocks and slide under the car. Check the tightness of all the linkages in the steering system.

of the car. Check the tightness of all suspension attachments. Grasp the rear wheel and rock to check if there is any wear or maladjustment of the wheel bearings. If evident, movement may be corrected by either adjustment or renewal of bearings.

The degree of wear allowed in the steering gear is not laid down precisely but it is up to the individual judgment of the tester as to whether he considers the car to be in a safe condition. Some testers may be more stringent than others but do not risk driving a car with faulty steering; always have worn parts replaced

as a matter of course. long run.

It will be cheaper in the

4OVY GNV

NOINId

ONIHS3S.LS

ATSINASSV

56

57

Preparing your Car for the MOT Test

Brakes Carefully examine all the metal and flexible hydraulic pipes and hoses for signs of leaking, corrosion

and chafing. Clean off the mud, dirt

etc from the flexible rubber hoses and examine them for any signs of perishing, bulging or fraying, caused by rubbing or stones thrown up. Check round the brake discs (front) and drums (rear) for any sign of hydraulic fluid leakage from the calipers or wheel cylinders. This form of leakage will severely affect the braking efficiency when the car is road tested. Get into the car, release the handbrake

and

depress the brake pedal. If there is excessive travel on the pedal before the brakes come on,

brakes

the

TYRE TREAD DEPTH CHECK

will

need

adjusting

(drum

brakes

only). If there is evidence of sponginess in the pedal it will mean that air has entered the hydraulic system and the brakes will need bleeding. Check that the handbrake cable is in good condition and that the clevis pins on the rear brake backplate are not worn and their retaining split pins are in place. Check that the handbrake lever operates correctly and the ratchet holds. When the brakes are correctly adjusted the handbrake should travel up the ratchet about four or five clicks to be fully on. Lights

Switch on the lights and check that they are

all functioning correctly. Check the operation of the headlamps on full beam and dipped beam. Also check that the headlamps are correctly

adjusted and that the main beam warning light operates when the lights are on full beam. Back the car up against a wall and check that

the brake stop lights work, both with and without the side lights on,in the reflection. Also check

the operation of the reverse lights. Check the operation of the indicator lights both

front, side and rear. They should flash at

between 50 and 120 times per minute. Check that the lenses of the stop and tail lights are not broken

or faded, they must show

a positive bold red light. Bodywork

The tester will examine

CHECKING THE FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS

the car thoroughly

for signs of rust or corrosion, particularly where the corrosion points may affect the safety of the car. The Maxi is however well rust proofed and

it is not envisaged that there will be any serious corrosion problems especially during its early

58 ee

rm

re eae

Preparing your Car for the MOT Test ee ee

years. The tester will also examine

the state of the

exhaust system and if this is badly rusted, is loose or has obvious holes in it, the car may fail its test.

Road test The purpose of the tester driving the car on the road is to satisfy himself that it handles properly. If there is anything major wrong with the steering you will probably already have spotted this fault and had it rectified before the TeSiv:

The brakes

tester will check by

using

the efficiency of the

a decelerometer,

a piece

of

equipment which is not readily available to public. However you can do a rough test on brakes by using an ordinary brick. Get the onto a reasonably long, deserted, straight

the the car and

smooth

the

piece of road,

place the brick

on

front passenger floor and on one of its narrow longer sides and gently accelerate up to 30 mph. Checking that it is safe to do so, apply the brakes hard without locking the wheels. The brick should fall over at this point quite quickly. Repeat the test and stop the car using

the handbrake only, this time the brick should just topple over quite gently. If the car pulls violently to one side or the other on heavy braking this may well cause a failure of the test. Refer in this case to the

fault finding chart on page 106.

Conclusion If all appears

to

be well

the car can

be

submitted for its test. Before taking it in, make

sure you have the log book and the old test certificate to hand for the tester. Have enough petrol in the tank to enable the road test to be carried out. It is advisable to leave instructions with the garage telling them that should any minor faults be found they should be put right on the spot to prevent a further waste of time and money. You should be informed of any major faults before the repair work is begun. If your car fails the test because of a fault of this nature, do not get upset about it. Remember thinking of your safety and road users and be thankful discovered before it may have

that the tester is the safety of other that any fault was caused an accident.

Buying and selling a used Maxi Because

the

Maxi

has been

in production

since 1969 there will be a considerable number of fine examples

on

the secondhand

market.

Any car which has covered more than an average of 12,000 miles a year may probably originate from a fleet operator or company representative and such cars will normally require money spent on mechanical parts. To give you some idea of current used car prices an excellent monthly publication called ‘Motorists’ Guide to New and Used Car Prices’ is a good buy. Private owners and the smaller dealers usually

offer cars at a lower price for a quick sale but be very careful to check the car thoroughly. Your bargain could turn out to be very worn which might cost you a great deal more in repair bills than at first anticipated. lf you can possibly afford it, go to a reputable local dealer and preferably one who gives a guarantee with the car, or who is included in the ‘scheme whereby the manufacturer gives a guarantee on his products when they have been checked over by their own dealers. However, if the money available will not allow this, go to a dealer who specialises in the sale of used cars or to the private seller, but be

prepared to spend a little time in giving the car a good going over. Later on in this chapter mention will be made of the various points that must

be checked.

Most car dealers and private

car sellers are honest but you must safeguard yourself as it should not be forgotten that the Car is usually the second most expensive purchase

‘for the family man - a house being the first.

The motoring organisations operate an excellent car inspection service whereby they will

send an engineer to inspect the car and then send you a confidential report. Obviously there is asmall fee involved but this may be considered as an investment. Having located the car which you are considering purchasing, the first thing to do is to give it an initial superficial check. Look at the tyres,

including

the spare

as they

will

tell “a

story of their own. They will show you how the

car has been treated. Look for signs of stress on the tyre walls (remember there is an inside wall as well as an outside wall which you will require to look at on bended knees). If small cracks

exist in the walls or there are signs of uneven wear of the tread pattern these two points alone indicate lack of attention to tyre pressures and a snubbed effect of the tyre tread indicates that

either the wheels are out of alignment or the body is bent due possibly to previous accident damage. Stand well back from the car and walk around it slowly. Does it look right or is there a noticeable sag at the front or rear? Note the colour of the paintwork and if it is the same colour on all the panels. If not it has been resprayed. Now open the doors one at a time and

hold the edge furthest from the hinges and see how much rock or play you can find. Gently but firmly close the door and make sure that it closes easily and correctly. If the door fits correctly there should be no need to slam it.

Whilst each door is open try opening and closing the windows.

Note

any

stiffness

in operation,

also if glass is free of cracks or scratches. Do not forget to check the windscreen and tailgate glass for scratches or deep stone chips.

Open the tailgate and check that the air operated springs hold the tailgate fully open and do not allow it to close slowly. Look for signs of rust around the edges of the wings,

the

sills, the

tailgate

and

the

bonnet.

Have a look along the top of the front wings by the screen for signs of paint blistering which indicates corrosion through the wing panel to the underside of the paint. Also look for chipping of the paint along the door edges indicating careless opening of the doors in confined

spaces. Note

the colour of the driver’s seat to see

if it is very dirty compared with the passenger's

seat. This will give an indication as to the usage.

If the passenger seat is dirty and the driver's seat clean it is probable that a seat cover has been

iors. ta age as EES

ee ALeee we

UNDER

INFLATED

EXAMPLES OF VERY BADLY AND IRREGULARLY WORN TYRES — NOW ILLEGAL. THE CAUSES OF SUCH WEAR CAN BE RECTIFIED EARLY ON IF TYRES ARE CHECKED REGULARLY. IF IN DOUBT AS TO THE CAUSE CONSULT YOUR LOCAL BLMC GARAGE

EXCESSIVE

TOE-IN OR TOE-OUT

Buying and Selling a Used Maxi

on an old rag or paper handkerchief and replace the dipstick. Withdraw it again and note the level. Look at the colour of the oil and if it looks dirty rub a little between the fingers. If it feels like treacle or gritty it is a sure indication that it is well overdue for changing. If it feels

used. Sit in the driver’s seat and lean back in it hard. This will indicate the amount of give should the brake pedal be suddenly depressed. Try the seat on its adjustment runners. Check the operation of the seat rake by moving the lever rearwards. Also can you feel the con-

struction of the seat through your backside, showing that it has settled badly? Do not wear your overcoat for this as it will give a false impression. Look down to your feet and see if the pedal rubbers have worn. These will show wear if the car has covered a high mileage. Dealers are wise to this and fit new pedal rubbers when reconditioning a high mileage car. Look at the speedometer and see if the mileage covered is reasonable for the age of the car. Speedometer failure just before the car is sold can be suspect as a cover against high mileage. Try the handbrake (keep your foot on the footbrake to stop the car rolling) and if correctly adjusted it will pull up 4 or 5 notches on the ratchet. Also move the gearchange lever to all the positions noting any signs of excessive play or movement. Early produced models had a cable operated system but because of its uncertain action this was later changed to a rod system. Depress the clutch and brake pedals and see if there is a reasonable amount of free movement on the clutch pedal and if it is possible to select both forward and reverse gears without the pedal being pushed hard on the floor. (The engine should be running for this last test.) Press hard on the brake pedal and make sure that it gives a firm action without signs of sponginess. Climb out of the car and with the bonnet open look around the engine compartment. A clean looking engine usually indicates a careful owner whilst a dirty oil soaked engine shows that the owner was not meticulous. Look for oil leaks especially around the timing cover and clutch housing area which could be expensive

\to rectify. Inspect the cooling system and exterior of the engine for water leaks. These will be shown by rust deposits at the cylinder head joint, cylinder head, cylinder block, core plugs, radiator and heater hoses and the radiator itself. Look at the small nuts and bolts on the distributor and carburettor to see if they have

their edges damaged, indicating the use of pliers for

adjustments

instead

of

the

correct

size

spanner. Withdraw

: the oil level dipstick, wipe it clean

61

rough, have a closer look for traces of white bearing metal, which, if evident, indicates the

engine has very worn bearings which can be costly to put right. Look at the spark plug insulators, HT leads, coil top and distributor cap to see if they are clean and not cracked or damaged. Finally, before going on further with the inspection, unscrew the hydraulic reservoir caps and the radiator expansion chamber cap and check that the levels are correct. If the car was standing when you arrived to inspect it, just put your hand on the radiator to see if it is hot. This will show if the engine has been running just before your inspection as an engine in good condition will start easily if cold and immediately if warm whereas a worn or tired engine can be difficult to start.

Start the engine and look at the exhaust to see if there are signs of blue smoke which indicate worn valves, pistons and/or cylinder bores. Listen hard for strange noises when the engine is idling smoothly. There should be no taps, thumps, clonks or rattles, any one of which can indicate trouble. If the engine is speeded up suddenly and then the throttle closed any thumping noises evident

indicate worn

big ends, crankshaft main

bearings or excessive crankshaft end float. Tapping noises are probably worn little ends or cracked pistons whilst a rattling noise can be

aworn timing chain, the latter being particularly prevalent on early produced Maxi engines. According to a recent car breakdown survey most failures are due to electrical faults - see what the electrical system is like on this car.

Make

sure that the red ignition warning

light

on the instrument panel goes out immediately the accelerator pedal is depressed. Should it not go out until a high engine speed is reached, the dynamo is not charging properly. If it is not performing correctly look at the end of the dynamo for signs of copper dust or thick oil which, if evident, indicate the possibility of having to buy a new dynamo. Next switch on all the lights and check that the dip switch

operates correctly. Leave the lights on for a minute. With the engine switched off inspect each cell of the battery to see if the electrolyte

62

Buying and Selling a Used Maxi

has been correctly topped up. Now go back to the driver’s seat and start the engine again noticing if the lights dim considerably. The object

of this test

is to see the approximate

condition of the battery. If it will not start the engine then a new battery will be required. Look at the fuses and see that none of them have been replaced by a piece of wire, cigarette packet paper or an old nail or screw. Take

extreme

care

if this

is the

case

as

it is an

indication that there has been previous trouble with the electrical system. Check the operation

of all electrical accessories. Now for a little hard work. Turn the front wheels to the straight ahead position and walk

FUSE BOX LAYOUT 71 Fuse box 2 35 amp fuse 3 15 amp fuse

4 15 amp fuse 5 35 amp fuse 6 spare fuses

about ten yards forwards. Look at the angles of

the front wheels. If they tilt towards each other at the top then something is amiss. It could be wheel bearings requiring adjustment but the trouble may be something far more expensive. Chock the rear wheels and raise the two front wheels from the ground. Grasp each tyre at the top and bottom and try to rock it to and fro. Any movement indicates worn wheel bearings

Or suspension joints. To give an idea which one is at fault remove the wheel trim and also the hub cap. Repeat the rocking movement looking for movement between the hub and stub axle. Play here indicates worn wheel bearings. Kneeling at the front of the car grasp one wheel in each hand and try to move one wheel relative to the other. If any movement exists

there is wear in the tie-rod and ball joints. From outside the car turn the steering wheel from one lock to the other checking for signs of roughness at any particular the ground.

point. Now

ENSURE THAT THE CAR HAS A WORKING

JACK

lower the car to

Check that there is no more than 1 inch free movement at the rim of the steering wheel. Any excessive movement indicates wear in the steering rack. Finally, bounce the car up and down by pushing and pulling on the body at roof level.

This will give an idea as to the general condition of the suspension and sub-frame mountings.

The time has now come for a road test but first there are one or two other things to think about. Ask the owner or dealer for sight of the log book. This will mean a walk for him but will put him at ease for the next few questions. See how many owners of the car are recorded. Beware of a duplicate log book or one stamped indicating that the car has been an insurance

write-off. Ask the seller (as opposed to a dealer) the reason for selling the car and how long has

EXAMINE THE SPARE TYRE — THE SPARE WHEEL IS SECURED IN A CARRIER BELOW THE LUGGAGE COMPARTMENT FLOOR

Buying and Selling a Used Maxi

63

he had it. If the seller is a dealer make a note of

log book, make contact with him and very tact-

the

fully find out the reason for him selling and any

name

and address

of the previous owner.

More about that later. Although you probably know the price being asked for the car, casually ask the seller again and make a quick mental calculation deducting 10 to 15 per cent, depending on your previous price survey of a reasonable asking price for a car of the age. Do not say anything else yet. Before commencing

the road test, make sure

other information about the car that you can. The decision on whether or not to purchase is now up to you.

Selling Much

of what has been said with regard to

buying a used Maxi is relevant in selling one, except, of course, that the boot is on the

other foot.

that you are covered by insurance and that the car is taxed. This is not applicable if the dealer’s trade plates are being used. Allow the

that you want a bigger, better or different car,

seller to drive first and listen hard for rattles, squeaks, clonks etc. Notice if the driver keeps

stances

his foot resting miles, ask to be this point the notice for signs

on the clutch pedal. After a few allowed to drive yourself and at real road test can begin. First of steering wander which can be

due to incorrect tyre pressures or wear in the steering system. Try a series of quick accelerations and decelerations noting the length of time it takes the engine to build up speed again. This is a good indication as to engine condition.

Listen

for

noises

from

the

engine/trans-

mission unit whilst you are driving especially when accelerating and decelerating. Try stopping and then accelerating through the gears several times and then slowing down by changing down through the gears. Any difficulty or noise during

gear

changing

can

be attributed

to

lack of

synchromesh action or clutch wear. Try an emergency stop but first make sure that your passenger is well braced and prepared and also that there are no cars behind you. The car should stop without veering to one side of the road or the other. Next slow down rapidly using the brakes and this time with the

hands off the steering wheel. This will indicate any tendency to pull to one side or the other.

Finally, on the way back from the road test make sure that the direction indicators and |;horn operate correctly. When the car is stationary check for oil leaks by putting a newspaper under the transmission unit. If you are satisfied that the car is up to

expectations and in good condition then the final thing to do is to negotiate the price. As a starting point make an offer of the figure previously calculated. If you can wait a day or so before giving the final ‘yes’ or ‘no’ when the car is being sold by a used car dealer and as you had the opportunity of noting the name and address of the previous owner as found inthe

Whatever

you

the reasons are for selling, be they

simply need the money, have

changed,

simple, standard

or your circum-

there

approach

is the

relatively

- you want the best

price for your car. With this end in view, whilst

we hope that you will be giving value for money at the same time, there is a basic method of preparation for the car. Cleanliness is all. The cleaner the car, the higher the price. The bodywork’s condition, both inside and out, should be the main selling point. Mechanical repair work is usually cheaper and faster to undertake than extensive bodywork repairs or renovation. The condition of the bodywork is usually indicative of the total condition of the car because it will show signs of age and

disrepair

sooner

than

the engine

or gearbox,

particularly on cars more than three years old. It is unlikely that owners will keep their cars in excellent condition mechanically and allow the body to drop off around it. Attend to the paintwork,

chrome

and all exterior trim, clean

the outside thoroughly and polish the car, clean out

the

boot,

‘spring clean’

of

doing

this

the

engine

compartment

the interior. There

explained

in

the

and

are methods

Bodywork

Chapter of this book. Because of the short time usually taken to actually complete a sale there can only be something less than a complete detailed check by a potential purchaser and

rather more, a quick visual one. As there are various ways of buying a used car so there are similar methods of selling but they are considered on their merits from completely different standpoints. The way in which you sell your car will depend on why you are selling and these reasons were described in the previous paragraph. The best prices are often obtained when part exchanging your car for a new one from an accredited dealer. However, shop around from dealer to dealer; their buying-in prices will vary according to how eager they are to sell the new car you want, and

64

Buying and Selling a Used Maxi

how eager they are to actually have your present car to re-sell. Nevertheless, with many dealers not wanting used cars of more than three years

with regard to the actual selling price. The same guide is valid. However, there are other indications. Go around to various dealers and ask

prepared to bargain trends with regard tc Prices usually creer you may be fortunate enough to live ina high demand area such a: London or eastern England where prices wil! again be marginally higher than elsewhere. In conclusion remember when selling yout car that the law exists both to protect you anc the buyer. The Trades Description Act doe: affect you as the seller. If the car you are selling is under a hire purchase agreement, the permission of the finance company must be obtained first. Irrespective of the age of yout car it mugt have a current road fund licence, MOT certificate (when applicable) and insurance before it can even be tested on the road. Always give a receipt and do not part with the car and log book until you are sure you have themoney, if you are paid by cheque. Do not forget to make sure your name is removed from the log

them

book

old it may be better to sell privately whatever your circumstances. Here, local papers, notice boards etc are the best media for selling. It is unlikely that you will receive the best price from a used car dealer at least as a cash transaction, unless he requires a good example for a particular customer, because he will have to put his mark-up onto the car to re-sell. Auctions do not often provide the best recom-

pense.

You

can, of course,

put on

a reserve

price. They usually do provide a sale though, if you are finding it difficult to sell your particular

car. The same premise applies when you are selling your car-as when you are buying one

for the

prices

of used cars of a similar

age and condition to yours prices in the local papers,

and look at the and then fix a

reasonable price and be There are obviously price time and place to sell. upwards in the spring and

and

the

buyer’s

inserted

and

that the

local Taxation Office is informed of a change of ownership. :

65

dv YOLNAYLSIG

SLOVLINOD

WALSAS NOILINS! SAL

WvD

HOLIMS NOILINS!

AYSLIVE

ONIGNIM AYVONOD3S

ONIGNIM AYVWIdd

66 KEY TO WIRING DIAGRAMS Use this diagram key to identify components on the following wiring diagrams. wiring diagram and disregard any additional numbered items appearing in the key

Dynamo Control box

37 38 39 40

Battery Starter solenoid Starter motor

Lighting switch Headlamp dip switch RH headlamp DBOANAGAAWHr LH headlamp Main beam warning lamp RH sidelamp LH sidelamp Panel lamps

Windscreen wiper motor Ignition/starter switch Ignition coil Distributor

42

Oil pressure switch

43 44 45 46 47 49 50 57

Oil pressure warning lamp Ignition warning lamp Speedometer Water temperature gauge Water temperature transmitter Reverse lamp switch Reverse lamp Cigar lighter *

Radio * Bi-metal instrument

Number plate lamps

RH stop/tail lamp LH stop/tail lamp Stop lamp switch

77

Fuse block

78

Interior lamp RH door switch

83 84

LH door switch Horn Horn-push Flasher Direction indicator and headlamp flasher switch Direction indicator warning lamps RH front flasher lamp LH front flasher lamp

710 7111 7115 116 139A

150 152 153 154 158 159 164

RH rear flasher lamp LH rear flasher lamp

Heater blower switch * Heater blower motor * Fuel gauge Fuel gauge tank unit Windscreen wiper switch

Refer to the appropriate

voltage stabiliser

Line fuse, 35 amp Electric windscreen washer * Windscreen washer switch * Induction heater and thermostat * Suction chamber heater * RH repeater flasher LH repeater flasher Rear window demist switch * Rear window demist unit * Alternative connection - lead added to harness from nine-way socket to headlamp when

existing lead is not required * Rear window demist warning lamp * Hazard warning lamp * Hazard warning switch * Hazard warning flasher unit * Printed circuit instrument panel * Brake pressure warning lamp and lamp test-push Ballast resistor

* Accessory or optional extra when fitted

Cable Colour Code

N Brown U Blue R Red

P G LG O

Purple Green Light Green Orange

W White Y Yellow B Black

When a cable has two colour code /etters the first denotes the main colour and the second denotes the tracer colour

67 4

GU

ap

-—NY

WIRING DIAGRAM

RIGHT HAND STEERING — 1969 to 1970

J

8

68

WIRING DIAGRAM

LEFT HAND STEERING — 1969 to 1970

i

®©

Oey

69

Fe

aed

oN

i,

Pe

So ——— |

i

ah gh

ki

Ve

R

B

JF Ow = PB

,]

>a

Lots z

ial}

ea ®) 4} sma

G—==2>—

R-a=s-RB-

GR

Qt

WIRING DIAGRAM

RIGHT HAND STEERING — 1971 on

70

WIRING DIAGRAM

LEFT HAND STEERING — 1971 on

Metric conversion tables Inches

Millimetres

0.001 0.002 0.003 0.004 0.005 0.006 0.007 0.008 0.009 0.01 0.02 0.03 0.04 0.05 0.06 0.07 0.08 0.09

0.0254 0.0508 0.0762 0.1016 0.1270 0.1524 0.1778 0.2032 0.2286 0.254 0.508 0.762 1.016 1.270 1.524 av/7s 22032 2.286

Inches

0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6 0.7 0.8 0.9 1.0 2.0 3.0 4.0 5.0 6.0 7.0 8.0 9.0 10.0

Millimetres

2.54 5.08 7.62 10.16 12:70 15.24 17.78 20.32 22.96 25.4 50.8 76.2 101.6 127.0 152.4 177.8 2032 228.6 254.0

Inches

Decimals

Millimetres

1/64 1/32 1/16 1/g 3/16 1/4 5/16 3/8 7/16 1/2 9/16 5/8

0.0156 0.0313 0.0625 0.125 0.1875 0.25 0.3125 0.375 0.4375 0.5 0.5625 0.625

0.3969 0.7937 1.5875 3.1750 4.7625 6.3500 7.9375 9.5250 11.1125 12.7000 14.2875 15.8750

11/16 3/4

0.6875 0.75

17.4625 19.0500

13/16 7/8

0.8125 0.875

20.6375 22.2250

15/16

0.9375

23.8125

Metric Conversion Tables

Distance Kilometres

Kilometres

1 2 3 4 3) 6 7 8 9

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Capacities

Litres 0.57

Litres

Pints

Litres

Gallons

1.76

1.14

1.70 2227)

OANAWN OMAN =

— ODNOOHRWNH

NHWNH OANA —

— OANOOAPWHNH

Metric Conversion Tables

Torque Wrench Settings om +

OONODOBRWNH—

Kg m

Kg m

Ib ft

0.138 0.276 0.414 0.553 0.691 0.829 0.967 1.106 1.244 1.382 2.765 4.147

7.233 14.466 21.699 28.932 36.165 43.398 50.631 57.864 65.097 72.330 144.660 216.990 WN OCOOOCDOOANDABRWN—

Tyre Pressures Kg/sq cm

OMDNOOBRWN—

0.07 0.14 0.21 0.28 0.35 0.42 0.49 0.56 0.63 0.70 1.41 atl

Kg/sq cm

OONODOABRWN—

Ib/sq in

14.22 28.50 42.67 56.89 Tle 74 85.34 99.56 W379 128.00 142.23 284.47 426.70

ENGINE NUMBER: STAMPED ON THE CYLINDER BLOCK OR ON A METAL PLATE SECURED TO THE CYLINDER BLOCK BETWEEN THE IGNITION COIL AND DISTRIBUTOR

CAR NUMBER: LOCATED ON A PLATE MOUNTED® ON THE RIGHT HAND WING VALANCE

COMMISSION NUMBER: LOCATED ON A PLATE MOUNTED ON THE RIGHT HAND SIDE OF THE BONNET LOCK PLATFORM

BODY NUMBER: STAMPED ON A PLATE FIXED TO THE LEFT HAND SIDE OF THE BONNET LOCK PLATFORM

WHEN COMMUNICATING WITH YOUR DISTRIBUTOR OR DEALER ALWAYS QUOTE THE CAR AND ENGINE NUMBERS. IF THE COMMUNICATION CONCERNS THE TRANSMISSION UNITS OR BODY DETAILS IT IS NECESSARY TO QUOTE ALSO THE TRANSMISSION CASING AND BODY NUMBERS.

75

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