Austin A60 Riley 4/Seventy-Two Owners Handbook and Maintenance Manual 0856961728, 9780856961724

Citation preview

D.LI.Y.

f

SERVICE

AUTHOR

CHALMERS - Hunt BL. Os This

Lele book

143

46061728

must be returned on or before the date shown to the Library from which it was borrowed LANCASHIRE COUNTY LIBRARY CORPORATION STREET, PRESTON, PR1 8RH

above

¢

Austin A6O Riley 4/72 Covers all models from 1961 Owners Handbook/ Maintenance Manual

by Brian Chalmers- Hunt

HAYNES

75p

46061128 & Acknowledgements Special thanks are due to BLMC for their co-operation with information and illustrations and to Castrol Limited A handbook in the Haynes Owners Handbook and Maintenance Manual series Edited by John Murphy

©

JH Haynes and Company Limited 1974

Published by J H Haynes and Company Limited Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset

Set in 10 point 1BM Univers Medium Printed in England

ISBN 0 85696 172 8 tA

Contents Introduction Model identification

Specifications, dimensions, weights, capacities

Road test data Spares and touring pack Tools Routine maintenance Bodywork - maintenance, cleaning, minor repairs

Preparing your car for the MOT Test Buying and selling a used car Wiring diagrams

Metric conversion tables Fault finding charts Index

94

of Saloon A60 the drawing Cutaway

Introduction This handbook

is intended for the owner or

prospective owner, who wishes to find out more about the car and who also wants to keep it regularly and properly serviced - with the

minimum

of effort - so that the car provides

economical trouble free transport.

He will be shown how to examine his car to ensure that all is well. Examination is the larger part of the maintenance on the more modern mass produced car, so many parts are: ‘’Sealed no lubrication necessary’”’ that many people tend to forget that they still wear out. It will also provide a good guide to condition assessment if you are contemplating purchasing a secondhand example. The models covered by this book have been out

of

production

for

several

years

now

-

consequently making them all subject to the annual MOT test. Included in this handbook is

a special chapter describing how to do a similar test at home

in order that any

faults may

be

found before the official test takes place. At the end of this book will be found a chapter on Fault Finding. Whatever the symptom, this chapter starts at the “‘beginning”’ and then works its way through all of the faults that are likely to be causing the problem, much time is often wasted in hopping from one possible source of trouble to another, with selfstyled ‘experts’ giving advice. It would be much better to say right at the start: “This could be one of several things - let’s get the book out”. After successfully using this handbook should you wish to tackle the more complicated type of repair a most useful Owners Workshop Manual is available direct from the publishers or through all good accessory shops and booksellers.

a

ae

Three-quarter front view of the AGO Estate

Three-quarter fi ont view of the Riley 4/72 Saloon

An interior view of the A60 Saloon

Model

Identification

Upon initial inspection the Austin A60 and Riley 4/72 may appear to be similar to those models which they superceded but upon due comparison it will become apparent that the front end, fascia, and tail have been redesigned (with the exception of the Countryman tailgate, and rear end panels, which remain the same). The BMC 1622 cc models covered by this handbook were introduced as a group during October 1961 but discontinued over a period from August 1968 to April 1971. Throughout the production run of these models there were few modifications of any significance. The more important ones are listed as follows:

October 1961: All models introduced. June 1962: The rear suspension design was improved. October 1962: Screenwashers fitted as standard. December 1962: Rear suspension on Countryman models improved. June 1963: Stronger fan belt fitted. October 1964: Steering mountings modified. Greaseless propeller shaft universal joints introduced. New passenger safety features include plastic framed mirror and crushable sun visor. February 1969: A60 Saloon and Countryman discontinued. October 1969: Riley 4/72 discontinued.

Specifications,

Dimensions, Weights, Capacities

Engine

Type

4 cylinder in line ohv pushrod operated. Three bearing crankshaft

Bore

3 in. (76.2 mm) 3.5 in. (88.9 mm) 1622 cc (99.1 cu in.)

Stroke Cubic capacity Compression ratio: High Low Firing order Location of No. 1 cylinder

S35 1 dee tol 1=3. 4; 2 Next to radiator

Valve rocker clearance (cold)

0.015 in. (0.38 mm)

Type of oil Sump capacity (inc. filter)

Castrol GTX or similar multigrade 7.5 pints (4.25 litres)

Cooling system

Type

Pressurised, pump impeller and fan assisted

Blow off pressure of radiator cap Thermostat: Standard - Single SU Twin SU Cold - Single SU Twin SU Capacity (inc. heater) Fan belt tension

70° 82° 820 88° 9.5 0.5

7 Ib sq in. (3.175 kg cm2)

C (1580 F) C (1800 F) C (1800 F) C (190° F) pints (5.4 litres) in. (12.8 mm) movement midway between

dynamo and water pump pulleys

Fuel system Carburettor: A60 Riley 4/72 Fuel pump Fuel tank capacity

Single SU HS2 semi down-draught Twin SU HD4 semi down-draught SU electric SP or AUF 204 10 gallons (45.4 litres)

Ignition system

Type Contact breaker gap . Spark plugs:

Type Gap

Lucas 12 volt coil

0.014 - 0.016 in. (0.36 - 0.41 mm)

Champion N5 (14 mm)

0.025 in. (0.64 mm)

10

Specifications, dimensions, weights, capacities Ignition timing: A60: Static LC HC Stroke * LC HC

6° 5° 9° 8°

BTDC BTDC BTDC BTDC

Riley 4/72: Static

Stroke *

4° BTDC 79 BTDC

* Crankshaft degrees at 600 rpm. Clutch

Type Actuation Friction disc diameter

Single dry plate Hydraulic 8.0 in. (20.32 cm)

Gearbox Manual: Number of gears Synchromesh operating on Gearbox ratios: First Second Third Fourth Reverse Automatic: Type

4 forward; 1 reverse 2nd, 3rd, 4th gears only

3.637 2.215 1.373 1.000 4.755

to 1 to 1 toil to 1 to 1

‘Borg Warner 35’ with fluid torque converter

Oil/fluid capacity: Manual Automatic

4.5 pints (2.56 litres)

11.25 pints (6.4 litres)

Type of oil/fluid: Manual Automatic

Castrol GTX or similar multigrade Castrol TOF

Rear axle

Type

Three-quarter floating

Ratio:

Saloon Estate and Countryman

y.Be oo 4.55: 1

Overall gear ratios may be calculated by using the following equation; Gearbox ratio x rear axle ratio = overall gear ratio. Steering

Type

Cam and lever

Number of turns lock to lock

2.9

Suspension Front

Independent by coil springs and wishbones

Specifications, dimensions, weights, capacities

Rear

Live axle; semi-elliptic leaf springs

Shock absorbers

Armstrong lever arm type

11

Wheels/Tyres Wheel type Size

Ventilated disc, 4 stud fixing 4J x 14

Tyre size: Saloons

5.90 x 14 or 165 - 14SP 5.90 x 14 or 6.40 x 14

Estates

Tyre pressures: Front - Saloon Front - Estate (normal use): 5.90 x 14 6.40 x 14 Front - Estate (laden): 5.90 x 14 6.40 x 14

Rear Rear 5.90 6.40 Rear 5.90 6.40

x

x -

x x

Saloon Estate (normal use): 14 14 Estate (laden): 14 14

23 Ib sq in. (1.62 kg cm2) 20 Ib sq in. (1.41 kg cm2) 18 Ib sq in. (1.27 kg cm2) 22 Ib sq in. (1.55 kg cm2) 24 Ib sq in. (1.69 kg cm2) 25 Ib sq in. (1.76 kg cm2) 24 Ib sq in. (1.69 kg cm2) 22 Ib sq in. (1.55 kg cm2) 32 Ib sq in. (2.25 kg cm2) 30 Ib sq in. (2.11 kg cm2)

NOTE: The above recommended pressures should be taken when the tyre is cold, as a hot tyre will normally show a higher pressure Brakes Make and type Footbrake Handbrake Front brakes: Type Drum diameter Lining area

Girling; drum; internal expanding Hydraulic on all 4 wheels Mechanical - operating on rear wheels only Twin leading shoe

9.0 in. (22.8 cm)

86.25 sq in. (556.3 cm2)

Rear brakes:

Type Drum diameter Lining area

Electrical system Battery Earthed terminal Dynamo Control box Starter

Single leading shoe 9.0 in. (22.8 cm) 60.4 sq in. (389.6 cm2)

12 volt; lead acid

Positive (+) Lucas C40/1 Lucas RB106/2 Lucas M35G/1; four brush

Fuses Number of fuses Location

2; 1x 35 amp and 1 x 50 amp Adjacent to control box

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13

Specifications, dimensions, weights, capacities Bulbs Headlights Side lights Direction indicators Stop and tail Number plate Panel and warning lights Interior and luggage compartment Direction indicator warning (lilliput bulb) Clock and automatic transmission

A60 Saloon

A60 Countryman

Riley 4/72

8 ft 4% in.

8 ft 4% in.

8 ft 4% in.

(2.54 m)

(2.54 m)

(2.54 m)

14 ft 5% in.

14 ft 9% in. (4.51 m)

14 ft 10 1/8 in. (4.52 m)

4 ft 10 7/8 in. (1.49 m)

4 ft 11 5/8 in.

4 ft 10 7/8 in.

(1.51 m)

(1.49 m)

Ground clearance

6% in.

(unladen)

(16.5 cm)

6% in. (16.5 cm)

6% in. (16.5 cm)

Overall width

5 ft 3% in.

5 ft 3% in.

(1.61 m)

(1.61 m)

5 ft 3% in. (1.61 m)

2471 Ib (1121 kg)

2612 Ib

2513 Ib

(1186 kg)

(1140 kg)

2240 Ib (1016 kg)

2240 Ib (1016 kg)

2240 Ib (1016 kg)

Dimensions and weights Wheelbase

Overall length

(4.43 m) Overall height

Weight (kerbside) Max. towing weight

Road Test Data A60 Saloon

A60 Countryman

Riley 4/72 (Automatic)

Maximum speed (mph)

80.7

79.9

86

Cruising speed (mph)

65

65

70

imately (miles)

260

276

Maximum speed in gears 3rd 2nd 1st

69 43 26

T.86 1.53 L.34

5.5 10 16 25

5.5 8.9 13.4 20.0

26

27.6

Sz

29.6

Cruising range approx-

Acceleration through gears

(secs)

Average fuel consumption

(mpg) Fuel consumption at 50 mph

(mpg)

30

Spares and Touring Pack Before undertaking whether in this country or to thoroughly check your It is better to have the car

any long journey, abroad it is advisable car and its contents. serviced early, before

the exact required time if necessary, rather than put it off until your return. Breakdown services, accredidited dealers and spare parts availability for your car are not always there

when you need them. There are two lists, one giving spares which should always be carried in the car and the other suggesting those which it is advisable to carry if undertaking a journey abroad. Some dealers are able to supply manufacturers recommended touring packs on an hire/buy-ifyou-use basis.

Always carry First aid box and manual Spare set of keys Gallon can of petrol with filler spout (full) List of car main dealers Breakdown triangle (compulsory on the Continent) Torch (with red flashing dome) Fan belt Finilec puncture sealer Roll of PVC insulation tape Temporary plastic windscreen Length of electrical cable (heavy duty lighting circuit) Screwdriver (medium sized) Electrical screwdriver

Pair of pliers Adjustable spanner (parrot jaw) Distributor - rotor arm Distributor - condenser Distributor - set of points 1 tin of hand cleaner (Swarfega)

Going abroad Those articles in the ‘Always carry’ list Tow rope

Set of light bulbs Set of spark plugs correctly gapped Spare inner tube valves Set of radiator hoses Radiator sealer such as Holts Radweld Set of fuses Length of HT lead Fire extinguisher Tube of gasket jointing cement Tin of Castrol Girling Brake Fluid 1 quart tin of Castrol GTX 1 spare head gasket set As many other tools as you feel you need Adequate set of maps

List of BLMC Agents abroad. Always keep this handbook in the car and produce it if you breakdown abroad. NonEnglish speaking mechanics will find valuable information about your ‘strange’ car in it. There are many mechanical terms common to

different

languages

- you can always point at

the photographs and illustrations - it may help.

Tools To carry out the routine maintenance tasks in this book you will obviously need a reasonable set of tools. A really comprehensive tool kit will be expensive to purchase at one go most home mechanics have built up a kit over the years as they have tackled new and more complicated maintenance and repair work. This way the cost is spread out. Remember though that any mechanic is only as good as his tools buy only the best quality (some spanners do break), keep them clean and in a safe place. The following list suggests the tools needed to undertake the work described in this book. 1 set of open-ended spanners 1 set of ring spanners

may

1 spark plug spanner

1 engineer’s hammer (1 Ib ball pein) 1 soft-headed hammer 1 pair pliers 1 pair long nosed pliers 3 screwdrivers (small, medium, large) 2 Phillips screwdrivers (small, medium) 1 set of feeler gauges 1 fine file 1 oil can (Castrol Everyman) 1 brake adjusting spanner 1 adjustable spanner (parrot jaw) Non-fluffy rag 1 pair of overalls 1 tin of hand cleanser (Swarfega)

16

Routine

Maintenance

Introduction No matter how well you look after your car various components inevitably are going to wear out and need replacement but by carrying out the regular maintenance tasks listed, you

will be able to get above-average mileage from your car before replacement becomes a necessity. A great many of the maintenance tasks are purely components, many

a visual of which

examination of are vital to the

roadworthiness of the car and safety of its occupants. The whole business of routine maintenance may become a bit tedious at times but do not neglect anything; your life or some innocent party’s life may depend on it and your car will appreciate the care you bestow on it by giving you virtually trouble free transport. A maintenance schedule chart will be found on page 22.

Plan ahead Before starting work always read through what work is involved and make sure you have all the parts and lubricants that will be needed. Most do-it-yourself motorists do their work during the evenings or weekends when garage stores are closed and nothing is more annoying that in starting a job and being unable to complete it due to lack of spares. The following is a list of the parts that will probably be required for each particular service but may have to be supplemented to meet any individual needs. If the replacement of a part is not necessary for a particular service then it may be retained for a subsequent service. Buying oil in bulk is often cheaper than purchasing it in individual 1 pint or quart tins. It should be

and Holts screenwasher bottle additive. Selection of bulbs.

Weekly

Water

- cooling system,

use soft water.

In

winter top up with antifreeze solution.

Hydraulic fluid - Castrol Brake and Clutch Fluid.

Girling Universal

3000 mile service Steering gearbox and idler - Castrol Hypoy. Grease nipples - Castrol LM grease. Automatic transmission - Castrol TOF. 6000 mile service Fan belt Rocker cover gasket. Contact breaker points. Oil filter Holts “Gun Gum” - or silencer seal. Cooling system hoses. Wax polish.

Glycerine. 12,000 mile service Air cleaner element 4 spark plugs Brake shoes HT cable Windscreen wiper blades 24,000 mile service Condenser Autumn Antifreeze - Castrol antifreeze

noted that this list is progressive. Routine

maintenance

procedures

(see chart on

Materials needed for each service schedule

page 22)

Daily . Engine oil - Castrol GTX. Distilled water - battery. Water - screenwasher bottle - use soft water

1 Check engine oil level The oil dipstick is located in the side of the engine near the rear of the dynamo. Allow the oil to drain into the sump, making sure the cer

18

Routine Maintenance

is on level ground. Withdraw the dipstick, wipe

it clean and insert it into its guide tube until it is fully home. Withdraw it again and note where the oil mark is. Top up using Castrol GTX or a similar multigrade until the “Max’’ mark on the dipstick is reached - allowing time for the fresh oil to run into the sump before taking subsequent readings. The difference in quantity between the “MIN” and “MAX” marks is 1.5 pints (0.9 litres) do not overfill as it can cause oil leaks and wastage.

2 Check level of battery electrolyte Wipe the top area with an old rag so that there is no dampness or dirt on the top of the battery. Remove the plugs or lift off the top cover and check the level of electrolyte of each of the cells. If the level is low distilled water must be added until the level is just above the top of the separates in each cell. Do not overfill. If there is corrosion around the terminals or surrounding area of the battery wipe with a dilute ammonia solution. Smear the terminals with a little vaseline to prevent further corrosion. Check tyre pressures and adjust if required Never run the car with incorrect tyre pressures. It is dangerous and costly. Always check the tyre pressures when the tyres are cold. Driving any distance generates heat causing an increase in pressure inside the tyre. Wait until the tyre has cooled down before making any adjustments. Check the spare tyre at the same time and be sure that it is inflated to the higher rear wheel pressure (You can always let the spare down a little when fitting, but blowing it up may not be so easy!).

Fig. RM.1A. The engine oil dipstick with the markings shown in the inset

3

4

Fig. RM.1B. The oil filler cap must be turned anticlockwise to release it

Check fuel tank contents and refill The level of petrol in the tank should never

be allowed to fall below 1 gallon (4.5 litres) otherwise sediment in the bottom of the tank or water contamination may find its way into the fuel line and possibly cause a blockage. 5 Check

windscreen

washer

reservoir and top

up Top up with clean water. An additive which stops the water freezing and also cleans greasy smears from the windscreen glass is available from Holts. For summer motoring there is the companion product which is able to cope with the usual markings of squashed flies.

Fig. RM.2. Tyre pressure check. Check when cold and take two readings

Routine Maintenance

19

6 Check operation of all lights For safety reasons check that all the lights are working correctly. Stop/tail and rear direction indicator lights: When it is necessary to renew a bulb, remove the two screws and lift away the access panel (if

fitted), and then pull the relevant bulb holder from the rear of the light backplate. The flashing indicator bulb is fitted to the top and the stop/tail light bulb to the lower compartment. The latter is of the double filament type giving a marked increase in illumination on brake application to provide a stop warning. This bulb also has offset locating pins to ensure correct replacement. Number plate light: The number plate light Operates only when the side lights are switched on. To renew a bulb undo and remove the cover and lens securing screws. Lift away the cover and lens. The relevant bulb may now be detached from its holder. Front flashing direction indicator and sidelight: On models with a circular lens press the front of the light lens inwards and turn anti-clockwise to release the four bayonet type catches. Lift away the lens. The bulb may be removed by depressing and turning in an anti-clockwise direction. Other models: Undo and remove the lens securing screws and lift away the lens. The relevant bulb may be removed by depressing and turning in an anti-clockwise direction. Headlight unit: UK cars are equipped with prefocused bulbs. To gain access to the bulb carefully ease the rim off the bottom of the lamp; pull the bottom of the rim and lift off the retaining lugs at the top of the lamp. Press the light unit in and turn it anti-clockwise to release it from the back shell. Release the bulb from the rear of the reflector by depressing the holder and turning it to release the bulb. When refitting the bulb ensure that the slot in the bulb flange engages the keyway in the holder.

7 Clean windscreen, mirror and headlights It is very tiring to drive behind a dirty ‘windscreen. Make sure that it is clean of road film and dead flies. The best method of removing dirt and contamination is to use a proprietory cleaner, in an aerosol can. At the same time clean the rear screen and wing mirrors, as well as the headlights. This is particularly important in winter or during wet weather.

». AUUITT

LUC

vane”

Fig. RM.3. The light unit removed showing the bulb holder and back-shell

Lu tan

Lie,

LLG

0 OLLLAZ

Fig. RM.4. The cover of the numberplate illumination lamps is secured by two recessed-head screws

Fig. RM.5. Remove the screws securing the pilot lamp glass to gain access to the bulbs

20

Routine Maintenance

8 Check level of coolant in cooling system and top up if necessary When hot gradually

release the pressure by rotating the cap, using a cloth to protect the hands, until the resistance of the safety stop is felt. Leave the cap in this position until all the pressure has been released and then depress the cap against the action of the spring to clear the safety stops and then continue turning until it can be lifted off. Top up the level of coolant in the radiator until it is level with the metal indicator plate located in the radiator top tank. If antifreeze is being used in the system top up with antifreeze solution and not plain water - as it will dilute the antifreeze already in the system so reducing the degree of frost protection.

Fig. RM.6. The bulb holders are pulled from the lamp back plate to gain access to the bulbs

9 Check tightness of wheel nuts The wheel nuts must be regularly checked to make sure that they are tight. If any grit is present between the coned end of the nut and its seating in the wheel, the foreign matter will disintegrate, leaving the nut loose. Nuts must be tightened fully using the leverage available with an ordinary wheelbrace. The manufacturers recommend that these nuts be tightened with dry threads. 10 Check and top up brake and clutch fluid reservoirs The reservoirs are located at the rear of the

engine compartment on the bulkhead. The brake fluid reservoir is on the left hand side and the clutch fluid reservoir on the right hand side (looking at them from the front of the car). Wipe the tops clean and unscrew the caps, making sure that no dirt finds its way into the reservoir. The correct level of the fluid should

Fig. RM.7. The radiator cap removed to show (1) the cam, (2) the stop, and (3) the safety catch

be up to the mark on the side of each reservoir. If the level has dropped considerably it is an indication that there is a leak in the hydraulic

system which must be rectified immediately. Top up the reservoir levels as necessary using Castrol Girling Universal Brake and Clutch Fluid and replace the caps.

11 Top up carburettor piston damper/s To top up the carburettor damper/s wipe the top of the carburettor suction chamber and unscrew the black hexagon plastic plunger top from the suction chamber. Withdraw the damper assembly and top up the oil level using Castrol GTX until it reaches the top of the

Fig. RM.8. The clutch master cylinder (1) and brake master cylinder (2) te

Routine Maintenance hollow piston rod. Replace the assembly and screw down the cap.

21

damper

12 Check brake adjustment If movement of the brake pedal is excessive it is an indication that the brake shoes need adjustment. Front brakes: With the front wheels jacked up locate the two square headed adjusters on the rear of each brake backplate. Each adjuster will move One shoe nearer to the drum if turned in an anti-clockwise direction when viewed from the centre of the car. Turn each adjuster -

spinning the wheel at the same time - until a definite resistance is felt. Then turn each adjuster one or two ‘clicks’ clockwise until the wheel is just free to spin.

ate q

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RN

EAS

.

Rear brakes: The sequence for adjusting the rear brakes is basically the same as that for the front brakes with the exception that there is only one adjuster (Note: Except to feel sure resistance from the differential when turning wheel). Adjustment of the rear brakes also adjust the handbrake. 13 Inspect the brake lines and pipes From underneath the car inspect the metal and flexible brake pipes for signs of leaking, rusting or chafing. Wipe away any grease or dirt from the flexible hoses and check for signs of perishing of the rubber, bulging of the outer covering or rubbing on some part of the suspension or brake assembly. If the metal pipes show signs of rusting corrective action should be taken by the local BLMC garage who will have the special equipment to make up the piping and unions if replacement is necessary.

Fig. RM.10. The two square-headed brake-shoe adjusting bolts on a front brake-plate

14 Check headlight alignment The lighting regulations stipulate that the headlights must be arranged so that they give illumination which is: “Incapable of dazzling any person standing on the same horizontal plane as the car, at a greater distance than 25 feet from the headlight, and whose eye level is not less than 3 feet 6 inches above that plane”’. Should adjustment of the headlamps be necessary they should be set, when the car is normally loaded, by a garage with the proper

optical equipment. 15 Top up steering box oil level Wipe the area around the filler plug and unscrew the plug. Check the level and top up to

Fig. RM.11. Check brake pipes for cracking or rubbing

22

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Routine Maintenance

ole with Castrol Hypoy.

16 Top up steering idler Wipe the top of the steering idler and unscrew the plug. Check, the level and top up to the level of the plug hole with Castrol Hypoy. _ Refit the filler plug. 17 Lubricate grease nipples The following nipples should be lubricated with a little Castrol LM Grease (Always ensure the nipple is clean before applying grease gun): a) Front suspension outer fulcrum pins (one nipple each side). b) Swivel pins. There are two nipples each side and best results are obtained with front of

car jacked up. cc) Handbrake cable.

There

is one

nipple

approximately half way along the cable. d) Early models only: (There is one nipple to each propeller shaft universal joint).

18Check level of fluid in automatic transmission With the engine at normal operating temperature,

move

the

selector

to the “P’’ position

and allow the engine to idle for two minutes. Remove the dipstick, wipe it clean, and with the engine still idling, insert the dipstick and quickly withdraw again. If necessary add enough of the correct grade fluid to bring the

level

to

the

“HIGH”

mark.

The

difference

between the two dipstick graduations is 1 pint (0.568 litre).

19 Automatic transmission selector linkage All moving parts of the selector linkage _should be lubricated with a little Castrol GTX. 20 Check fan belt tension If the fan belt is too loose, it will slip, wear rapidly and cause the dynamo and water pump to malfunction. If the belt is too tight the dynamo and water pump bearings will wear ‘rapidly causing premature failure of these » components. The fan belt tension is correct when there is 0.5 inch (12.7 mm) of lateral movement at the mid point position of the belt

between the generator pulley and the water ~ pump-pulley. To adjust the ran belt slacken the _ dynamo

mountings and check

strap and move

the dynamo in or out until the correct tension :

only

ained. It is easier if the dynamo bolts are

slackened a little so that it requires some

effort to move the dynamo. In this way the correct tension of the belt can be arrived at more quickly than by making frequent adjust-

ments. If difficulty the dynamo away spanner or tyre lever and resting against

is experienced in moving from the engine a long placed behind the dynamo the block serves as a very good lever and can be held in this position, while the dynamo bolts are tightened. — 21 Check valve rocker clearance (‘tappets’) The valve adjustments should be made with the engine cold. The. importance of correct rocker arm/valve stem clearances cannot be overstressed as they vitally affect the performance of the engine. If the clearances are set too wide, the efficiency of the engine is reduced as the valves open later and close earlier than was intended. If set too close, there is a danger that

the stems will expand upon heating and not allow the valve to close properly which will

cause burning of the valve head and seat and possible warping. Access to the rockers is gained by removing the two holding down studs from the rocker cover and then lifting the rocker cover and gasket away. It is important that the clearance is set when the tappet (cam follower) of the valve being adjusted is on the heel of the cam (ie opposite the head). This can be ensued by carrying out the adjustments in the following order (which also avoids turning the crankshaft more than necessary): Valve Valve Valve Valve Valve Valve Valve Valve Valve

fully open No 8 No6 No 4 No 7 No 1 No 3 No 5 No 2

Check Valve Valve Valve Valve Valve Valve Valve Valve

and adjust No 1 No 3 No 5 No 2 No 8 No 6 No 4 No 7

The correct valve clearance of 0.015 inch (0.38 mm) - see specifications - is obtained by slackening the hexagon locknut with a spanner while holding the ball pin against rotation with a screwdriver. Then still pressing down with the screwdriver, insert a feeler gauge in the gap between the valve stem head and the rocker arm and adjust the ball pin until the feeler gauge will just move in and out without nipping. Then still holding the ball pin in the correct position, tightening the locknut. An

LEONE oat

Tienes

SMT

a CE

ete tal

Fig. RM.13. The steering idler filler plug. The correct level is flush with the bottom of the filler hole

IA Fig. RM.14. The lubricating points on the front suspension and swivel pins

Fig. RM.16. The rear universal joint lubrication

Fig. RM.17. The automatic transmission filler tube

nipple. A similar nipple is situated on the front universal joint (early models only)

and dipstick, showing:

a b

‘Low’ mark ‘High’ mark

Routine Maintenance

25

alternative method to set the gaps with the engine running, and although this may be faster, is no more reliable. 22Check operation of distributor advance/ retard mechanism Remove the distributor cap and hold the rotor arm firmly. Turn the rotor as far as it will go in its normal direction of rotation; then let it go. The rotor arm should return to its original position without showing any signs of sticking. Next check that the moving plate is free to move using a screwdriver.

23 Clean and adjust contact breaker points To clean and adjust the contact breaker points first release

the two clips securing the distributor cap to the distributor body and lift away the cap. Also lift away the rotor arm from the top of the cam spindle. To remove the

,

ar, edo

‘

a

Dvn tet ytqnanyy

( |)

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iy)

VON

}

ety

SSS

Ss

*ES

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x8

Fig. RM.18. The four points of attachment of the dynamo, all of which must be slackened for belt adjustment

points, unscrew the terminal nut and remove it

together with the steel washer under its head. Remove the flanged nylon brush and then the condenser lead and the low tension lead from the terminal pin. Lift off the ‘moving’ contact breaker arm and then remove the large fibre washer from the terminal pin. The ‘fixed’ contact breaker arm is removed after unscrewing the single retaining screw and removing it complete with spring and flat washer. To reface the points, rub their faces on a fine carbonundum stone, pointed file or fine emery paper. It is important that the faces are rubbed flat and parallel to each other so that there will be complete face to face contact when the points are closed. One of the points will be fitted and the other will have a deposit

Fig. RM.19. The method of setting the valve clearance, and (inset) using a feeler gauge to check the clearance

On it.

It is necessary to remove completely the built-up deposits but not so necessary to rub the fitted point right down to the stage where all the fitting has disappeared although obviously, if this is done it will prolong the time before the operation of refacing the points has to be repeated. To replace the contact breaker points, first position the ‘fixed’ contact breaker arm and secure it in position with its screw, spring and flat washer. Fit the fibre washer to the terminal pin and fit the contact breaker arm over it. Insert the flanged nylon bush with the condenser lead immediately under its head and the low tension lead under that, over the terminal pin. Fit the steel washer and screw on

Fig. RM.20. The contact plate securing screw and the screwdriver adjusting slots are here indicated by the

arrows

26

Routine Maintenance

25 Clean and adjust spark plugs Before removing a spark plug, remove any dust or dirt from around its location in the cylinder head. Disconnect the HT lead and with a plug spanner or socket, remove the spark plug

Fig. RM.21. Lubricate the advance mechanism and the cam spindle

the securing nut. Rotate the engine until the heel of the ‘moving’ contact arm is on the peak of one of the four cam lobes. A 0.015 inch (0.38 mm) feeler gauge should just fit between the points. With the ‘fixed’ contact arm securing screw loose, adjust the contact gap by inserting a screwdriver in the notched hole at the end of the plate. Turning clockwise decreases the gap and turning anti-clockwise increases the gap. With the gap correctly set, tighten the contact plate securing screw and recheck the gap. Replace the rotor arm and distributor cap; then clip the two spring blade retainers into position.

24 Lubricate distributor Remove the distributor cap, having just released the two cap retaining clips. Also lift off the rotor arm from the top of the cam spindle. Allow no more than three drops of engine oil onto the top of the screw head in the top of the cam spindle. The oil will run down the spindle and lubricate the cam spindle bearing. Apply one drop of oil to the ‘moving’ contact breaker arm pivot post and a further drop to the underside of the cam (where it comes through the centre of the baseplate). This will lubricate the mechanical automatic advance retard system. Apply a little vaseline to the lobes of the cam to provide lubrication between the moving arm heel and the cam itself. Great care must be taken not to use too much lubricant as any excess could find its way onto the contact breaker points and be the cause of misfiring.

taking care not to damage the insulator. Examine the end of the spark plug; it will probably be noticed that there are considerable deposits of carbon both on the threaded body and the central electrode which will, of course, reduce the efficiency of the plug. Carefully remove the carbon with a fine wire brush and trim the electrodes carefully with emery cloth or a very fine file. Reset the electrodes to the recommended gap of 0.025” (0.64 mm) by bending the side electrode - taking the greatest care not to touch the centre electrode, as any pressure

at the front can

damage

the internal

part of the insulator. Recheck the gap using feeler gauges. If the spark plug is in a very dusty condition it is preferable to have the cleaning carried out on a special sand blasting machine as used by most garages. Cleaning is done under pressure and the interior of the plug can be thoroughly cleaned which is not possible when using a wire brush. A spark plug which is very oily can be cleaned in petrol but do not soak for too long otherwise the petrol will soak into the insulator and can cause internal short circuiting. Whenever possible fit new plug washers to keep the plug cylinder head joint gas tight. The initial inspection of the spark plug can tell the owner a considerable amount about the condition of his engine. The ideal plua deposits should be grey in colour with a light carbon deposit and an insulator just tinged with brown. White electrodes indicate too weak a carburettor setting. Heavy oil deposits fouling the electrodes indicate surplus lubricant in the cylinder (ie. worn cylinder bores/piston rings). Replace the plug, making sure the washer is in position and lightly, screw the plug home by hand to avoid stripping the thread, using the plug spanner only for the final turn, do not overtighten.

26 Check front wheel alignment If the wheels are not in alignment, tyre wear will be heavy and uneven and the steering stiff and unresponsive. This is a job that the local BLMC garage must do, as accurate alignment requires the use of expensive alignment measuring equipment.

27

\

>

Lubrication Engine Air cleaner Carburettor Steering box

Steering idler Swivel and fulcrum pins

Propeller shaft (early models only) ONOURWN— Handbrake

cable

oh 5

a

J

Chart Engine drain plug

Oil filter Gearbox Automatic transmission Rear axle Distributor Dynamo

Water pump (early models only)

28

Cleaning

deposits

from

elec-

Checking plug gap with feeler

trodes and surrounding area using a fine wire brush.

gauges

Altering the plug gap. Note use of correct tool.

Spark plug maintenance

White

deposits

and

damaged

porcelain insulation indicating overheating

Broken

porcelain

insulation

due to bent central electrode

Electrodes burnt away due to

wrong

heat value or chronic pre-ignition (pinking)

Excessive black deposits

Mild white deposits and elec-

Plug in sound condition with

caused by over-rich mixture

trode

light greyish brown

or wrong heat value

burnt

indicating

too

weak a fuel mixture Spark plug electrode conditions

deposits

Routine Maintenance

29

27 Change oil in engine Before draining the oil, run the engine until it has reached its normal operating temperature. Then place a container having a capacity of at least 8 pints (4.55 litres) underneath the drain plug (located at the bottom of the sump). Wipe the surrounding area clear; then undo the drain

plug. Allow the oil to drain out for a full ten minutes, which should be sufficient time for

Ww

any sediment to drain out as well. Wipe the drain plug and clean out any sediment from the

plug interior. Remove the old drain plug washer and fit a new one. Replace the drain plug and tighten sufficiently to give a good oil tight seal, do not overtighten. Refill the engine with Castrol GTX or a similar high quality multi-grade. If the filter has been changed add 1.0 pint (0.57 litre) of oil to the total refill capacity of 6.5 pints (3.68 litres). Allow the engine to idle and then recheck the oil level.

AGS AAA WAG

WUWNOQG

Fig. RM.25. The engine sump drain plug is located on the right-hand side of the engine

28 Fit new engine oil filter The oil filter is located on the right-hand side of the engine and is retained in position by a long centre bolt accessible from underneath the car. If available, a socket and extension should be used to undo the bolt. Place a container underneath the filter and undo the centre bolt. Lift away the filter bow! from the filter head taking care not to tilt it until the oil has been drained out of the bowl. Remove the old element and discard it. Wash out the bowl in petrol to remove all traces of sediment. Using Fig. RM.26. Unscrew the central casing bolt, and the filter bowl may be withdrawn

a small screwdriver carefully prise the old rubber sealing ring out of its groove in the

underside of the filter head. Fit the new sealing ring supplied with the new filter element making sure it seats correctly. If the centre bolt has been removed, the bowl sealing plate assembly will have been disturbed so assemble the parts into the bowl in the following order: Pressure

Fig. RM.24. Front wheel alignment.

Dimension (A) must be between 1/16 and 1/8 in. (1.6 and 3.2 mm) smaller than dimension (B) when the wheels are in the straight-ahead position

spring;

steel

washer;

felt

or rubber

sealing washer; sealing plate; and finally the element, making sure that it is resting centrally on the sealing plate. Place the bowl into position on the filter head, checking that it rests on the rubber sealing ring and tighten the centre

bowl

until the bowl

is just nipped, do

30

Routine Maintenance

not overtighten Start the engine and allow it to idle for a few minutes. Then check that there are no leaks from the filter bowl or filter head. Re-check the oil level.

29 Check manual gearbox oil level Remove the carpeting from around the right-hand side of the transmission tunnel and wipe the area around the dipstick. Withdraw the dipstick; wipe it dry, and then take a reading. Top up as necessary with Castrol GTX or a similar high quality multi-grade oil.

30 Check rear axle oil level Working under the car clean the area around the combined level and filler plug. Undo and remove the plug. The level of oil is considered to be correct when oil is up to the filler plug threads. Top up if necessary with Castrol Hypoy. Replace the plug and wipe away any oil accidentally spilled.

Fig. RM.27. The combined dipstick and filler plug is located beneath the rubber plug on the gearbox

cover (manual gearbox)

31 Lubricate dynamo rear bearing To lubricate the dynamo rear bearing insert three drops of engine oil in the small oil hole in the centre of the commutator end bracket (rear bracket), using an oil can with a long nozzle. The front dynamo bearing is pre-packed with grease and requires no attention. Note: On some special application cars as supplied to the public services alternators were fitted instead of dynamos. Should one of these be fitted the only service necessary is to ensure

that the fan belt is correctly adjusted. 32 Lubricate door locks and hinges, bonnet lock, and safety catch * With an oil can lubricate all moving and contact points of the door hinges and locks, bonnet lock and safety catch. Take care to wipe away surplus oil from the door locks otherwise it could find its way onto your clothing. To lubricate the lock barrels apply a little oil to the key and insert the key into the barrel. Repeat this several times and finally wipe the key free of oil. Apply a little grease onto the lock contact points of the door striker plates, make sure that any excess is wiped off.

33 Lubricate brake and clutch pedals shaft and linkage

Using an oil can lubricate the pedal shaft and linkage. Also lubricate the pedal pivot bushes to ensure free operation.

Fig. RM.29. The lubrication hole for the dynamo end bearing. Do-not overlubricate

Routine Maintenance

34 Change round wheels, including spare Normally the wear on the front tyre is more rapid than that of the rear tyres because the car is steered through the front tyres and the front brakes are more effective than the rear brakes. It may also be found that the tyres on the nearside tend to wear a little more rapidly than those on the offside. So that tyre wear can be evened out, the wheels should be changed round and the spare wheel brought into use so that all five tyres wear evenly.

31

Fig. RM.30. Change the wheels round diagonally and bring the spare into use as shown in this illustration

35 Examine exhaust system for leaks Examination of the exhaust pipe and silencer at regular intervals is worthwhile as small defects may be repairable which if left will also certainly require complete renewal of the effected component. Also leaks, apart from the noise factor, may cause poisonous exhaust gases to find their way into the car. Prolonged inhalation of these gasses even in mild concentrations will cause sickness and giddiness. For small holes use Holts ‘Gun-Gum’ silencer seal or for larger holes and cracks use Holts ‘Gun-Gum’ silencer bandage. Full instructions are given on the pack.

36 Lubricate carburettor cables and controls To ensure ease of throttle and choke control movement the carburettor linkages should be lubricated with a little engine oil. Apply a little oil to the throttle inner cable and operate the pedal several times so as to distribute the oil. Repeat this procedure for the choke control as well. Do not forget to apply a little oil to the choke control knob shaft when it is pulled out fully.

37 Check condition of heater hoses Normally, providing

cooling

system

Fig. RM.31. The carburettors. The adjusting screws are located in the positions illustrated on both the front and rear carburettors 1 P2

Slow-run screw Fast-idle screw

3

Mixture adjusting screw

and

the water level is correctly maintained and the system is occasionally drained to remove any accumulation of sediment the cooling system will seldom give trouble. Leaks can sometimes prove difficult to trace but not impossible. Inspect the radiator top hose, bottom hose and heater hoses for signs of cracking; perishing; leaking or softening — fit mew hoses as necessary. If a leak occurs around a hose clip, ‘tightening the clip may be all that is necessary,

but sometimes this will make the leak worse. The remedy is to fit a clip of the ‘Jubilee’ type

and to tighten it just sufficiently to prevent leakage. Fitting new radiator hoses is a straight

forward operation once the cooling system has been drained. If a new hose is difficult to place on its union; lubricate with a little soap. Should the radiator be leaking slightly it may be cured by using a proprietry sealing compound. Instructions for use are given on the packaging.

38 Check all fuel lines for leaks Inspect the fuel lines and connections for signs of leaks especially at the various connections at the tank, pump and carburettor/s. Check the tightness of the unions and clips following the fuel pipe from the tank to the carburettor. All pipes and unions should be clean and dry.

32

Routine Maintenance

39 Balance front wheels Imbalance in the wheel and tyre assemblies

made so the throttle idling adjustment screw should now be turned so that the engine idles at

may be responsible for various effects, such as: wheel wobble; abnormal wear of tyres and suspension joints; vibration in the steering, or in extreme cases in the whole of the car, If any of these faults develop for which no other cause can be found, wheel and tyre balance should be checked using specialist equipment. Therefore, this fork should be entrusted to your BLMC garage.

between 600 and 700 rpm. Twin carburettor synchronisation: First ensure that the mixture is correct in each instrument by disconnecting the throttle interconnecting linkage. With twin SU carburettors, in addition to the mixture strength being correct for each instrument, the idling suction must be equal for both carburettors. It is best to use a synchronising device, but if one is not available, it is possible to obtain fairly accurate synchronisation by listening to the hiss made by the air

40Wash body and chrome fittings, clean interior Full details of this operation may be found in the bodywork section of this handbook. 41 Lubricate washer round wheelbox spindle To ensure free movement of the windscreen wiper spindle in the rubber washer where it protrudes through the windscreen lower panel assembly, apply a few drops of glycerine to each spindle. Do not use ordinary oil as it will cause the rubber to soften with the remitting possibility of water leaks.

42 Adjust and tune carburettor/s Once the engine has reached

its normal Operating temperature, detach the air cleaner. Only two adjustments are provided on the SU carburettor. Idling is governed by the throttle adjusting screw and the mixture strength by the jet adjustment nut. The SU carburettor is correctly adjusted for the whole engine revolution range when the idling mixture strength is correct. To adjust the mixture set the engine to run at about 1000 rpm by screwing in the idling screw. Check the mixture strength by lifting the piston of the carburettor approximately 0.0313 in (0.794 mm). If: a) The speed of the engine increases appreciably the mixture is too rich. b) The engine speed immediately decreases the mixture is too weak. c) The engine speed increases very slightly the mixture is correct. To enrich the mixture rotate the adjusting nut located at the bottom of the carburettor in an anticlockwise direction. Turn the adjustment nut one flat only at a time, and check the mixture strength between each turn. It is likely

that there will be a slight increaseor decrease in rpm

after

the

mixture

adjustment

has

been

Fig. RM.32. Mixture and cold starting adjustments

2 3 4

Fast-idle screw Mixture adjusting screws Forked end - jet lever connecting rod

(Inset) Throttle lever and coupling

Fig. RM.33. The water pump lubrication plug

Routine Maintenance flow through the air intake of each carburettor. The aim is to adjust the throttle butterfly disc so that an equal amount of air enters each carburettor. Listen to the hiss from each carburettor using a piece of rubber tube and if a difference in intensity is noticed between them, then unscrew the throttle adjustment screw on the other carburettor until the hiss from both carburettors is the same. Tighten the throttle linkage folded clamp at the same time holding the throttle adjusting screws against their stops. Synchronisation of the two carburettors is now complete.

of two

types

of air cleaner

will be

fitted: “AC Delco” or ‘’Tecalemit’’, ascertain which before purchasingthe element. They are not interchangeable. Early models: Unscrew the two bolts that secure the air filter assembly to the carburettor and the setscrew which secures the casing to the support straps. Lift away the filter. Remove the wire clip, base plate and element. Wipe the interior of the casing, fit a new element and replace on the carburettor. Later models: Unscrew the wing nut at the top of the filter and lift away the top cover and element. Wipe the interior of the casing, fit a new element and replace the top cover. 44 Fit new spark plugs At this mileage the spark plugs should be renewed. Although they might look to be in a satisfactory condition it is possible for the insulation to become tired.

45 Check steering and suspension moving parts _ for wear

This is a systemmatic check on all steering

and suspension compoennts for correct attachment and wear. Jack up the front of the car first and support on firmly based stands. Using suitable spanners ensure that all attachments are tight and then check the steering linkage for wear; dampers for wear/leaking, and the wheel

bearings for wear. Lower the front of the car to the ground and raise the rear end and place on firmly based stands. Check all rear suspension mounting nuts and bolts for security. Inspect the rear spring leaves for signs of cracking or wear and the mounting bushes for signs of perishing or oil contamination.

Check

the

If any fault is suspected take the car to the local BLMC garage for their advice.

46 Check brake shoe linings for wear Remove the hub cap, loosen off the wheel nuts, securely jack up the car, and remove the road wheel. Ensure the handbrake is off if the

rear brake shoes are being removed. Completely slacken off the brake adjustment and take out the two setscrews, which hold the drum in place. Remove the brake drum. If it proves obstinate tap the rim gently with a softheaded hammer. The shoes are now exposed for inspection.

43 Fit new air cleaner element

One

33

rear

signs of hydraulic fluid leakage.

dampers

for

The brake linings should be renewed if they are so worn that the rivet heads are flush with

the surface of the lining. If bonded linings are fitted they must be removed when the material has worn down to 0.0313 in (0.794 mm) at its thinnest point. Press in each brake shoe steady pin securing washer against the pressure of its spring. Turn the head of the washer so it will clear the securing bar on the steady pin and remove the spring and washer.

Detach the shoes and turn springs by pulling oen end of the shoes away from the slot in the closed end of one of the brake cylinders and pull the ends of both shoes out. Allow the return spring to pull the free end of the brake shoe down the side of the brake cylinder. Lift both brake shoes away. Thoroughly clean all traces of dust from the shoes, backplates, and brake drums with a dry paintbrush and compressed air, if available. Brake dust can cause squeal and judder and it is therefore important to clean out the brakes thoroughly. Check that the pistons are free in their cylinders and that the rubber dust covers are undamaged and in position and that there are no hydraulic fluid leaks. Secure the pistons with wire or string. Prior to reassembly smear a trace of white brake grease to all sliding surfaces. The shoes should be quite free to slide on the closed end of the cylinder and the piston anchorage point. It is vital that no grease or oil comes in contact with the brake drums or the brake linings. Replacement is a straight reversal of the removal procedure, but note the following points:

a) Check that the adjusters are backed right off. b) Ensure that the return springs are in their

34

Routine Maintenance

correct holes in the shoes and lie between them and the backplate.

c) Adjust the brakes tenance operation 12.

as

described

in Main-

47 Lubricate the water pump The water pump is located behind the fan blades and on early models should be lubricated by first unscrewing the slotted plug behind the pulley and inserting a smally quantity of grease. (Later models do not have this plug). Do not over lubricate otherwise grease will find its way from the bearing housing through the carbon seal and cause it to leak. Replace the plug and washer.

48 Inspect HT leads for cracking or perishing It is rarely appreciated that the amount of high tension current leakage that canoccur

Fig. RM.34. To reposition the wiper arm raise the retaining clip and withdraw the arm. Refit on another spline

through old; cracked; perished or damaged cables, can be considerable, causing a drop in engine performance. With rubber cables inspect

the cables by bending them double along their lengths between a finger and thumb. Any cracks in the insulation will become visible when this is done and if present the cable concerned must be renewed. Plastic covered cables usually only suffer from damage through rubbing or heat.

Examine the distributor, spark coil. Moisture can rise to a white evident, must be end of the cable.

cable connections at the plugs and centre of ignition seep down these joints giving corrosive deposit which, if carefully removed from the

49 Fit new windscreen wiper blades To fit new wiper blades, using a small electricians screwdriver, depress the spring through the hole in the wiper blade to arm link and pull the blade away from the arm. To fit the new blade insert the arm into the arm link on the wiper blade and push until the spring clips into the locating hole in the arm link. 50 Drain brake hydraulic system and refill with fresh fluid The manufacturers recommend that every 24,000 miles or eighteen months whichever is earlier, the hydraulic fluid in the braking system be completly changed because brake fluid over a period of time will absorb moisture. Discuss the requirement with your local BLMC garage who will have the facilities to carry out this operation easily and quickly.

Fig. RM.35. Access to the radiator drain tap is gained from beneath the front of the car. Turn in the direction of the arrow to open the tap

51Check tightness of battery earth lead connection on bodywork Make sure that the battery earth strap is free of corrosion and that it is securely attached to the body panel. If difficult starting is experienced, even though the battery is fully charged, the battery terminals clean and yet the starter motor does not rotate the engine fast enough to start the engine, remove the nut and bolt securing the battery earth lead to the body and clean the mating faces until free from any corrosion.

Routine Maintenance 52 Fit new condenser to distributor To fit a new condenser release the two distributor cap securing clips and lift away the cap followed by the rotor arm. Undo the small nut that secures the two cables to the terminal post. Lift off the nut, steel washer and flanged nylon bush. Undo and remove the samll crosshead screw and spring washer securing the condenser to the base plate taking extreme care not to drop these into the distributor. The condenser may now be lifted away. Fitting the new condenser is the reverse procedure to removal of the old unit. 53 Completely overhaul brake hydraulic system For safety reasons the manufacturers recommend that the complete brake hydraulic system be dismantled, inspected and new rubber seals and hoses fitted throughout. This is a task for a qualified BLMC garage. 54 Examine dynamo brushes Before the dynamo brushes can be inspected the dynamo must be removed and partially dismantled. This task is best done in total by an auto-electrician or by your BLMC garage. 55 Examine starter motor brushes As with the dynamo it is necessary for the starter motor to be removed and partially dismantled for the brushes to be fully inspected and if necessary renewed. Once again consult an auto-electrician or a BLMC garage for this operation.

56 Winter protection and use of antifreeze The use of an antifreeze solution in the winter months

is a necessary precaution against

the coolant freezing and causing irrepairable damage to the engine. It is important that an antifreeze with an ethylene glycol base is used otherwise there is a risk of internal corrosion of the waterways and ‘the water pump impeller. Also, evaporation losses are very high with an alcohol based antifreeze. The antifreeze should be mixed in a container of suitable capacity (the capacity of the cooling system is 9.5 pints (5.395 litres) so that it can be prepared with a couple of pints left over for topping up the cooling system at a later date. Before the antifreeze solution is poured into the radiator thoroughly check all radiator and

35

heater hoses and connections for signs of coolant leakage. The hoses must be in good condition and be free of cracking, perishing or softening. At the same time check the heater tap and thermostat housing joint for signs of coolant leakage. The reason for this thorough inspection is that antifreeze has a very great ‘searching’ power and if there is a minor fault within the system it will be sure to find it. Also it has a tendency to loosen scale or dirt in the cooling system. Before refilling the cooling system it should be thoroughly flushed out. Inspect the three core plugs which look like discs, to be found on the side of the cylinder block and also the core plug in the rear of the cylinder block above the clutch housing. These should show no signs of leakage or corrosion. If they are suspect your local BLMC garage will be able to advise you further. Cooling system - draining With the car on level ground drain the system as follows: 1 If the engine is cold remove the filler cap from the radiator by turning the cap anticlockwise. If the engine is hot having just been run, then turn the filler cap very slightly until the pressure in the system has had time to release. Use a rag over the cap to protect your hand from escaping steam. If, with the engine very hot, the cap is released suddenly the drop in pressure can result in the water boiling. With the pressure released the cap can be removed. 2 Open the two drain taps. When viewed from the engine side of the radiator; the radiator drain tap is on the bottom left hand side of the bottom tank. (Note: On later models a drain plug was used). The engine drain tap is halfway down the right hand side of the block at the rear. 3 When the water has finished running probe the drain tap (or plug) orifices with a short piece of soft wire, to dislodge any particles of rust or sediment which. may be blocking the taps and preventing all of the coolant from draining out. Cooling system - flushing In time the cooling system will gradually lose its efficiency as the radiator becomes choked with rust scales; deposits from the water, and other sediment. To clean the system out, remove the radiator cap and the drain tap and leave a hose running in the radiator cap

36

Routine Maintenance

Ny,

Mypyyyins: iS

"

\ Seg Sy

de Zz Zz SS

;

>, 3S

Fig. RM.36. The drain tap for the cylinder block is located on the right-hand side of the block at the rear. Turn in the direction of the arrow to open the tap

orifice for ten to fifteen minutes. In very bad cases the radiator should be reverse flushed. This can be done with the radiator in position. The cylinder block tap is closed and a hose placed over the open radiator drain tap. Water is then forced up through the radiator and out of the header tank filler orifice. The hose is then removed and placed in the filler orifice and the radiator washed out in the usual manner.

Cooling system - filling 1 Close the two drain taps. 2 Fill the system slowly to ensure that no air locks develop. If a heater unit is fitted, check that the valve to the heater unit is open, otherwise an air lock may form in the heater. It is better to use ‘soft’ water in the cooling system clean rain water being ideal. 3 Completely fill the radiator and replace the cap. Turn it firmly clockwise to lock it into position. Re-check the coolant level after the first run.

Cooling

system

-

thermostat

removal

and

replacement To remove the thermostat partially drain the

cooling system upper radiator

(4 pints is enough), loosen the hose at the thermostat elbow

end and pull it off the elbow. Unscrew the three set bolts (or nuts) and spring washers from the thermostat housing and lift the housing and paper gasket away. Take out the thermostat. Test the thermostat for correct functioning by immersing it in a saucepan of cold water together with a thermometer. Heat the water and note when the thermostat begins to open. The standard settings are given in the Specifications at the beginning of this handbook. Discard the thermostat if it opens too early. Continue heating the water until the thermostat is fully open. Then let it cool down naturally. If the thermostat will not open fully in boiling water, or does not close down as the water cools, then it must be discarded and replaced by a new one. If the thermostat is stuck open when cold this will be apparent when removing it from the housing. Replacing the thermostat is a reversal of the removal procedure. Remember to use a new paper gasket between the thermostat housing and the cylinder head. Renew the thermostat housing if its joint face is badly corroded. If a Winter thermostat is being fitted, providing the Summer unit, which it replaces, is functioning correctly, it can be placed on one

side and refitted in the spring. Thermostats should last for two years at least between renewals.

Bodywork -Maintenance, Cleaning, Minor Repairs Introduction Most owners like their cars to look clean, well polished and free of rust. Not only does regular cleaning show up stone chips or rust marks which can be easily attended to before getting worse, but also the appearance is maintained which ensures a good re-sale value for the car. Regular car cleaning is considered by some as a necessary evil and only to be done when absolutely necessary whilst others enjoy this aspect of car care far more than the routine mechanical maintenance. The secret is to keep the car clean all the time so that it is not allowed to become too dirty making the work all that more difficult. If you do not feel like doing the job all at one go then divide it into sections as done here in this Chapter and do a little each week. This will give a continuous cleaning programme and enable you do do other jobs as well to break the monotony. Should the car have been recently acquired and it is in a dirty state then take it along to the local BLMC garage and have the whole of the underside and engine compartment steam cleaned. This will save a tremendous amount of time. It will not take long and it is well worth while. Once clean it can be kept clean. See ‘materials needed’ section at the end of the Chapter before starting.

over the past few months of motoring, and place in a large cardboard box ready for sorting

out and replacing. Lift out the rubber slip mats, the carpeting and underfelt. The rubber mats may be washed if very dirty or just shaken to remove loose dirt. The carpeting may be brushed, shaken or beaten to remove the dust and dirt. If badly marked they can be washed using a carpet shampoo and laid out to dry in the sun. Underfelt should be carefully shaken but not washed or beaten otherwise it will be difficult to dry and may start to break up. If the carpeting around the pedals is worn renew it otherwise it can be dangerous especially for women drivers. Next lift out the rear seat cushion which will give better access for the operations following. Using a vacuum cleaner with a flexible hose remove all traces of dust and grit. With a suitable upholstery cleaner diluted as

dust

recommended by the manufacturer wash down all upholstery body trim and roof lining. Use a neat solution on stubborn stains. Wipe off all traces of cleaner or soap with a moistened cloth and finally rub dry with a clean non-fluffy rag. Do not use too much water as it will cause excessive condensation in the car, unless it is a hot day, and the doors will have to be left open for a while. The interior paintwork may next be cleaned using a damp cloth and polished using a domestic aerosol polish and clean non-fluffy

created by removal of carpets will only settle on the clean exterior!

rag. Door handles and chrome trim should be lightly rubbed with a moistened cloth.

Car cleaning - interior Many car owners leave interior cleaning to last and prefer to wash the exterior first. This is

really _

action can be taken before rust sets in. First empty the under dash panel tray, rear parcel shelf, under the front seats and the boot of all the bits and pieces that have collected

By

working regularly

backwards cleaning

because the

the

interior,

the

upholstery will remain in good ‘nearly new’ condition, the carpets fresh and clean and the general appearance smart and well cared for. When the carpeting is removed any water leaks will be evident and the necessary corrective

To

clean

the

interior

glass, interior

mirror

and instrument cluster glass, add a little methylated spirits to the water and wipe over with a soft cloth. Do not use ordinary domestic cleaners. Inspect the seat belts for damage and make

38

Bodywork - Maintenance, Cleaning, Minor Repairs

sure that the anchorages are still firm. The belt may be washed in warm soapy water and wiped dry with an old towel. Wash down the door, boot lid and bonnet, apertures and their edges. Remove all traces of lubricant with a paraffin moistened cloth. Take care to clean around the door hinges and locks as these are dust traps. With a piece of wire probe the door drain holes to make sure that they are free of blockage. Inspect the floor pan for signs of

rusting or leaking at the various seams. De-rust using Kurust and seal with a flexible sealing compound such as Seelastik. Whilst the front doors are open make sure that the little courtesy light switches located in the door pillars operate freely. Check the bulb in the courtesy light for operation or for a disconnected cable at the rear of the switch if the bulb does not light. Next go round all nuts, bolts and screws and make sure that all are tight and then lubricate the door locks and hinges, courtesy light switch plunger, choke control and front seat runners to ensure precise and free movement.

Turning to the boot, remove the rest of the contents including spare wheel and vacuum out all dust and dirt. Wipe the paintwork down with a damp cloth. If carpeting is fitted clean this in a similar manner to the_ interior carpeting. Again look for water leaks especially in the corners and if necessary seal with Seelastik once the rust has been neutralised. Clear the drain holes using a piece of wire. Using an oil can, lubricate the handbrake lever assembly and the pedal points. Inspect the pedal rubbers for signs of excessive wear and fit new ones if necessary. It is dangerous to drive with worn pedal rubbers for on a wet day it is easy for the foot to accidentally slip off the pedal.

Should you have a slight tear on one of the seats or trim panel, cut a piece of spare trim from the underside of one of the seats and apply a coat of impact adhesive such as clear Bostik. insert the patch into the hole with the glue uppermost and then apply adhesive to the flap of the trim section. Allow the recommended drying time to pass and then press

down the torn edges, trying to get the edges as close together as possible which will make the repair less pronounced. Any large tears will have to be repaired using a piece of matching material which is obtainable from the local

BLMC garage. The time has now come for touching up the interior paintwork and full details for this will be found later in this Chapter. Once the paint is dry, the rear seat cushion and carpeting may be refitted followed by the articles that live on the parcel shelf and in the boot. This is a good time to check the contents of the first aid kit, if carried, and any deficiencies should be made up. Check the tools in the car tool roll and lubricate the threads of the jack. Stow away the contents of the boot making sure that the main tool kit is so situated where it will not slide around or rattle.

Car cleaning - exterior (underside) It was recommended in the introduction to this Chapter that if the car is in a dirty state it be taken to the local agents for steam cleaning. With the underside relatively clean it is an easy matter to keep it clean. Remove the

interior carpeting and contents of the boot. Jack up the car as high as possible and remove the road wheels. With a garden hose, a stiff brush, tin of paraffin and scraper and, of course, suitably clad for a soaking, soak the dirt accumulated under the wheel arches and crevices, loosening where necessary with the hand scraper. This will require a lot of time and patience but working systematically front to rear remove dirt and oil. Whilst the underside of the car is drying check the seams for signs of leaking. Also generally check the tightness of all visible nuts and bolts and make sure the various pipes and wires are securely clipped to the underside of the body floor pan. Inspect the underside for signs of rusting and, if evident, clear with a wire brush and neutralise with Kurust. When the underside is really dry, seal any leaking seams with a flexible sealing compound. Wipe off the Kurust with a rag soaked in methylated spirits and apply a coat of suitable red oxide cellulose primer surfacer. Allow to dry and if the part is visible finish off with a coat of Holts car enamel spray of the matching body paint colour. Any underbody sealer requires regular inspection to make sure there are no loose flakes. If this is evident scrape off the loose area and remove any rust as described in the last paragraph. Apply a coat of red oxide cellulose primer surfacer and allow to dry. Underbody sealer is available in a brush-on form, although when applied fresh at the garage it is sprayed

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40

Bodywork - Maintenance, Cleaning, Minor Repairs

on. A tin of this should be obtained and brushed on using a two inch paintbrush. On the wheel arches it is recommended that, because of stones being thrown up by the tyres, two coats are applied, with time allowed for drying between each coat. Finally, before lowering the car to the

ground again check the exhaust system for leaks, with the engine running. Take care not to allow the engine to run for too long otherwise there may be an accumulation of exhaust fumes under the car.

Car cleaning - exterior It is recommended that once a week the exterior of the car be washed and wiped dry. For this job a flexibrush on the end of the garden hose is best, a sponge to assist wiping down

and a leather to finish the operation off.

First make are

closed

sure that all windows and doors

and

place a piece of polythene sheeting over the engine behind the grille to shield the electrics, providing that the engine has not just been run, for obvious safety reasons. Thoroughly wet the car with water using a gentle spray. Take care not to aim the jet of water directly at the windows or body seams which could start water leaks. Once the dirt has been loosened wipe down the panels using the brush with water still running through it as this way the paintwork should not be scratched by road grit. Next apply wax car shampoo or a little nondetergent washing-up liquid, working from the roof downwards. Any stubborn dead flies, marks or tar may be removed using white spirit on a soft cloth. Do not forget to clean the wing mirrors, front grille, the wiper blades and, of course, the wheels with the hub caps removed. A leather must not be used with a detergent or shampoo as this will cause it to rot. Finally rinse off all the suds with plenty of clean water and wipe dry using a leather. Wipe all spots and smears from the windscreen, rear screen and door glass using the leather. When the car is dry the glass may be polished with a rag soaked in a methylated spirits and water solution. Chromium plating requires regular cleaning with a damp cloth or leather. Occasionally one of the special polishes for chromium plating may be sued but on no account use an ordinary metal polish. Every six months it is recommended that the exterior be wax polished. There are, however, several important points to be noted before

polish is used on a car. If the car is new do not polish for at least two months to allow the paint to dry fully and harden. If part of the paintwork has been re-sprayed treat as if new. Do not use a ‘cutting’ paste to remove the dull film from cars sprayed with a metallic paint. When purchasing a wax polish always make sure that it is suitable for the type of paintwork on the car. Do not attempt to wax polish a car in the sun or when the body is still warm, having been in the sun. It will bake on and have to be removed with petrol. Do not wax polish a car which has just been washed because paintwork absorbs moisture slightly and the wax coating can hold this moisture so giving an effect called ‘micro blistering’ caused by minute rust spots under the paint film. Finally some ‘don’ts’ to avoid deterioration

of the paintwork: Don’t dust Always wash.

down

; or

polish

a dusty

car.

Don‘t get polish or wax on any of the glass. Don’t neglect hidden parts of the doors when polishing. Don’t leave birdlime on the paintwork - it wi!! cause stains. Don’t park under trees especially in the hot sun or when raining. Don’t use a cutting compound or haze remover on cars finished with an acrylic paint. Don’t use wax without cleaning the car first.

Bodywork - paint touch-up

On any car with a steel body the greatest enemy of all is rust and this is most likely to start under the wings or along the sills because the road wheel will fling water, mud and grit onto the paint surface and it will only be a matter of time before the paint skin is penetrated and rusting starts. It is for this reason that many new cars are given a thick coat of underseal, usually of a bituminous or rubber base. However, if this was the end of the story paint maintenance would be relatively simple, but unfortunately it is not because chips appear at the front of the wings

along the outside of the wing panel and doors as well as the edges of the bonnet and boot lid. Whilst the car is being cleaned these chip marks

41

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42

Bodywork - Maintenance, Cleaning, Minor Repairs

will become evident and it is important that they are attended to immediately otherwise rusting will occur and spread so that what was once a small chip will gradually turn into a large area requiring a great deal more renovation work. Touch-up paint is usually available in either touch-up pencil, tin with a little brush in the lid or aerosol form and may be obtained as a good match to the original body colour. It must, however, be realised that some paint colours are more stable than others. Due to the action of sunlight on an older car an exact match may be difficult unless a tin of touch-up is mixed by the paint department of your local BLMC garage to match the exact colour of your car. Use a touch-up tin with brush incorporated in the lid for making-good chips and very small scratches. To prepare the surface for touching up, first use a silicone solvent to remove all traces of polish which will not allow the paint to adhere properly. If there are signs of rusting or the paint beginning to lift, use a sharp penknife and carefully scrape away the loose paint and rust. Then neutralise the rust with a little Kurust and allow to dry. With a piece of rag soaked in methylated spirits wipe away the dry Kurust. The prepared spot may now be touched in with the touch-up brush. Shake the tin vigorously for a few minutes to ensure that the paint is well-mixed and withdraw the brush. Wipe the brush on the inside of the neck of the tin and then dip in the end of the brush until there is a little paint on it just sufficient to touch in the area concerned. Very carefully apply a thin coat of paint only to the area concerned and allow to dry thoroughly. Apply a futher thin coat so as to build up the paint to the original paint thickness. This will take time and patience but with care the touch-up should be indistinguishable from the surrounding area. If there is a scratch on the paintwork which has penetrated the top coat of paint and the red primer is showing through, the basic procedure is the same. First remove all traces of polish with a solvent and then with a knife, lift off any loose paint. Neutralise any rust and finally touch in the scratch, preferably with one sweep of the brush. For this, a fine brush may be better than the brush provided with the tin. Build up the paint to the original paint thickness. The edges of doors and boot lid seem to suffer very much and small areas of rust

frequently appear. In this case an aerosol tin of primer and enamel top coat will be required. Again use the silicone solvent to remove any polish from the area concerned. Rub down the paint around the area with a little wet or dry paper grade 400 until the area is smooth, as the name implies the paper can be used either dry

or with water; the latter method tending to keep the grit of the paper clear also the water acts

as a lubricant. Neutralise any rust with Kurust and when dry, wipe with a piece of cloth soaked in methylated spirits. Before spraying, make sure the car is sheltered from wind and dust. Shake the aerosol tin of primer for a few minutes to ensure that there is no sediment in the bottom, usually the manufacturer drops in a ball bearing to assist agitation of the paint. If this is the first time that an aerosol tin is being used, try iton a piece of metal to get the ‘feel’ of the spray and then proceed to spray the prepared surface. Remember the success of this work lies in the preparation. The smoother the prepared

surface, the better will be the finish. Hold the jet about six inches away from the area to be sprayed

and

work

from

the centre outwards,

keeping the centre moist and the outside lightly sprayed and dry. When dry, very lightly rub the primer with wet or dry paper to roughen up the surface and then inspect it for blemishes caused by dust or bad preparation. Rectify any faults by rubbing

down

again

and

applying

a further. coat of

primer. It is only when the surface under repair is perfect that the final top coat may be applied. Again ‘feel’ the spray on another surface, and when you are confident apply the top coat to the primer. Remember it is like ordinary house-hold painting - two thin coats are better than one thick coat. Should runs occur, it is an indication that either too much paint has been applied at one

go or the nozzle was too near to the surface being sprayed.

Rub down

the area concerned

and start again.

With all touching up, be it a small spot ora larger area, allow the paint to dry thoroughly,

at least overnight, and then use a little rubbing compound to blend in the edges of the paint and remove any dry spray. If the rusted area is near to a piece of chrome trim there is no need to remove it, but mask up the chrome trim with a little sellotape

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44

Bodywork - Maintenance, Cleaning, Minor Repairs

or proper masking tape. This may be removed once the paint is half-dry, leaving no paint Over-spray marks on the trim. Take care when sticking down the tape and use a knife to push it around any curved areas. Should the scratch be only a minor one without penetration through to the undercoat it may be removed using a rubbing compound, but take great care in its use. It may leave a light patch. Bodywork - deep scratching, dent or crease removal This type of repair requires a little more work but is well within the do-it-yourself motorists’ capabilities, provided that care is taken and the job is not rushed. Again preparation is the secret to good results. The method of approach will depend on the location of the damage but in all cases if it is possible to push the dent or crease out from behind, so much the better. This may mean removal of a piece of interior trim. Should, however, this present problems then do not worry too much unless the original shape cannot be achieved (even with building up with a filler). For safety reasons on this next operation wear a pair of goggles or glasses to protect the eyes. Using an electric sander with an abrasive disc on the rubber pad or electric drill with suitable attachment, remove all the paint right down to the bare metal from the area surrounding the damage as well as the damaged area itself. Work the area until all traces of paint including undercoat and primer have been removed and an area of bare metal is obtained. Next coat the area of bare metal with a special sinc primer such as Galvafroid Primer to give additional protection against future corrosion as well as to provide a key for the body filler. Allow to dry thoroughly. The body filler next must be prepared according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Usually these came in two parts, a tin of filler in paste form and a hardener. Read through the mixing instructions and when fully conversant mix only enough for immediate use to guard against waste. Most fillers are expensive to waste - once the hardener has been added the paste has a very limited working time of a few minutes. It is best to mix the hardener using a piece of plastic or very stiff card on a piece of hardboard or similar material. The filler should be applied to the damaged

area and to about one inch either side of it so to allow for preparing the surface for final finishing. Do not, however, apply the filler to paintwork as it will not adhere properly. Carefully smooth the filler to the contour of the body panel, but do not try to work the filler once it has started to harden. When the filler has hardened it should be rubbed

grade

down

using

coarse

wet

or dry

paper

120. Do not use an electric sander for

this or subsequent operations as its actions is too fierce. Carefully rub the surface smooth until the contour matches the rest of the panel and is also relatively smooth. Use the paper either wet or dry. Wash down the area being worked upon and inspect for imperfections and small air holes or areas requiring further building up. On flat panels use a sanding block but on curved areas just use the paper by itself. Mix some more filler and apply where

necessary

to

make

good

any

defects found.

When the filler is dry, blend into the rest of the area using wet and dry paper. Now using 280 grade paper wet, rub down the complete area, taking care to blend the filler edges to the bare metal. This may take time but remember the preparation determines the quality of finish. Wipe the complete area dry and inspect again for blemishes. These must be rectified at this stage. With the palm of the hand ‘feel’ the surface for any high or low spots caused by

over-ambitious rubbing down and again rectify if evident. When you are entirely satisfied that the area is perfect, the next stage is to mask over any adjoining panels or chrome trim with sellotape or masking tape and newspaper. Apply a coat of Galvafroid Primer to give a good key for the second primer as well as to give additional rust protection. Allow to dry. The primer may now be applied with a good quality paintbrush which does not moult. Paint the whole of the area under repair and allow to dry. Very lightly rub down the surface with 400 grade paper wet, and inspect for any imperfections. Then wash down and allow to dry fully. Apply a second coat of primer and again lightly rub down and wash. The repair is now ready to receive the top coat. Holding the nozzle about six inches away from the surface spray behind any catches or fittings first and then work from the centre of the panel outwards until the repaired section of the panel is covered. Make sure that the paint

Bodywork - Maintenance, Cleaning, Minor Repairs overlaps the existing paint by a couple of inches allow for feathering, and allow to dry. Lightly rub down the surface with 400 grade paper wet, and allow to dry. Now spray on a second top coat and if necessary a third coat until the depth of colour matches the original paintwork. When the final coat is completely dry rub the surface with a soft cloth and some rubbing compound paying particular attention to the areas where the new paint overlaps the original. Wipe off the compound and inspect the finished result for signs of any blemishes which should be corrected by rubbing down and re-spraying. Finally, remove the masking tape and paper and lightly polish with a clean soft cloth. Do not apply a polish for at least two months to allow the paint to harden. Provided that care was taken in the selection of materials and the instructions followed the results should be satisfactory, but if something has gone wrong the following table should be of assistance. to

FAULT

CAUSE

Blotchy finish

Insufficient

number

of

primer or top coats. Paint runs

Rippling (called orange peel) Matt finish

Creasing

Spray nozzle too near panel during spraying. Too much paint applied. Too thick a coat application. Spray nozzle too far away from panel. Not all dust from previous flatting Operation removed. Unsuitable materials used for primer or top coat. Insufficient masking - use cutting compound to remove it. Spraying in dusty or windy conditions. Usually caused by spraying in damp condition. Most pronounced with dark colours.

do-it-yourself owner to make the panel look as good as new.

The

first thing to do is to sand down

immediate area surrounding the more visible part affected. : Next hammer or cut away all affected metal until sound metal is reached and then treat with Galvafroid Primer to check subsequent corrosion. Obtain a piece of perforated zinc sheet found in old meat safes. Cut off a section, larger than the hole produced by the removal of affected metal, and insert into the hole, if necessary, moulding it to the shape of the panel. Use paper clips or small self-tapping screws to keep it in place. Mix sufficient filler according to the maker’s instructions,. to apply a thin coat to the zinc sheet and immediate surrounding area and work it well in so to provide a good key for subsequent layers. Allow to dry. Continue building up, a layer at a time, until the contour of the body panel has been reproduced and then allow to dry . Thereafter follow the instructions given in the last section, shaping and blending the filler to the existing body contour and finally paint. Materials needed Before any car cleaning, minor bodywork repair or paintwork is attempted it is recommended that the following list of possible requirements is studied and the materials obtained

before any operation is contemplated:

Bodywork - serious corrosion Should a body panel such as a lower door section, leading edge of a wing or sill as Opposed to a main structural member

Car cleaning - exterior (underside)

Rough finish Faded patches of top coat

(called Blooming)

corroded,

it is within

the capabilities

be badly

of the

the

affected area for a further inspection. Do not forget to wear goggles or glasses to protect the eyes. Use an electric drill with sanding attachment fitted with a coarse disc to remove the paint from the rusted section as well as the

Car cleaning - interior Vacuum cleaner Carpet brush and shampoo Upholstery cleaner Soft soap (non-caustic) Clean non-fluffy rags Furniture polish Small bottle methylated spirits Small bottle paraffin Jar of Kurust Seelastik flexible sealing compound Bostik impact clear adhesive Oil can

Overspray

45

Wire brush

46

Bodywork - Maintenance, Cleaning, Minor Repairs Jar of Kurust Seelastik flexible sealing compound Small bottle methylated spirits Red oxide cellulose primer surfacer Holts car enamel spray (matching colour) Tin brushing under body sealer Tin Holts ‘Gun Gum’

Car cleaning - exterior Hose and flexibrush Car shampoo Leather Sponge Piece of polythene sheeting about square Bottle of white spirit Small bottle of methylated spirits Clean non-fluffy rag Tin wax polish Tin chrome plate cleaner.

Newspaper

Belco rubbing compound. Bodywork removal

- deep

scratching,

dent

or crease

1 pair goggles Electric sander with abrasive disc Galvafroid Primer 1 pack Cataloy body filler 1 piece of plastic or stiff card (approx 3” x

raed 3 ft.

Bodywork - paint touch-up Touch-up tin of matching enamel paint Bottle silicone solvent Jar of Kurust Small bottle methylated spirits Wet or dry paper 400 grade Touch-up paint - aerosol - primer Touch-up paint - aerosol - matching enamel paint Sellotape or masking tape

1 piece of hardboard or plywood (approx 1’ 14) Wet or dry paper grade 120 Wet or dry paper grade 280 Wet or dry paper grade 400 1 tin brushing primer 1 good quality paintbrush Holts car enamel spray (matching colour of car) Holts car primer spray Clean non-fluffy rag Sellotape or masking tape Newspaper Belco rubbing compound Bodywork - serious corrosion metal cutters Perforated zinc sheet Plus all items mentioned section.

in the

previous

Preparing

your Car for the MOT Test

The test concentrates mainly on _ safety aspects, although other points are also checked and may result in a failure if not considered serviceable. If you have carried out the routine maintenance on your car at regular intervals, your car has a far better chance of passing the test than if the car has been neglected. The points the tester will be looking for, and consequently the checks you should make are, as follows:

Steering and tyres With the car on the ground there should be no more than 4 inches (101.6 mm) circumferential movement at the steering wheel before any movement is detected at the road wheels. If there is, it is an indication that there is wear in the steering box; idler, or linkage ball joints. Even if the steering wheel movement is less than this, say between 2 and 4 inches (50.8 and 101.6 mm), further investigation must be made. Chock the rear wheels, apply the handbrake, jack up the front of the car and place on firmly based axle stands located under the main longitudinal members. With an assistant holding the steering wheel firmly, slide under the car and grasp the wheel front and rear so that the hands are in the same plane as the centre of the swivel hub. Rock the front wheel. Look for any movement at the ball joint connecting the tie-rod to the steering arm mounted on the swivel hub, also the ball joint connecting the tie-rod to the steering lever or idler steering lever. If movement is evident new tie-rods must be fitted as they are not adjustable. Check the ball joints at each end of the steering cross tube in a similar manner. If movement is evident new ball joints must be fitted. Check the swivel joints for wear from beneath the car whilst a second person grasps the top and bottom of the wheel and alternatively, pushes and pulls on it. Look for movement of the stub axle relative to the king

pin. If movement is evident new bushes must be fitted. Next, the front hub bearings should be checked for wear by first spinning the road wheel and listening for a rumbling noise. Then with an assistant, again alternatively pushing and pulling on the road wheel, look for movement. New bearings must be fitted if there are rumbling noises and signs of movement. Inspect the tyre tread for signs of uneven or unusual wear. Although this in itself is not a part of the test procedure, it is readily agreed that correct steering alignment causes adverse handling and on this point the car can fail the test.

Turn the steering wheel on both full lock positions to ensure that the tyre is not rubbing against some part of the suspension, steering or

Fig. 3.1. Use a gauge to measure tread depth, and do so at various places around the tread

48

Preparing your Car for the MOT Test

bodywork. Check that all steering mountings and attachments are tight. All tyres must have at least 1 mm tread depth around the complete circumference and covering at least three quarters of the breadth. This does not include the spare wheel but obviously if it does not comply with this regulation it must not be used in the advent of a puncture. The tyres must not have any lumps, bulges or cuts on their fabric. Also they must be suitable for the car to which they are fitted. It is essential that radial and crossply tyres are not mixed on the same axle, and that radial tyres are not fitted to the front wheels only. Brakes Inspect the metal and flexible brake pipes for signs of leakage, rusting or chafing. Wipe away any grease or dirt from the flexible hoses and check for signs of perishing of the rubber; bulging of the outer covering or rubbing on some part of the suspension or brake assembly. Look at the front and rear wheel cylinders and the brake master cylinder for signs of leaking. Check all metal and flexible pipe unions for signs of leakage. Lower the car to the ground and chock the rear wheels. Release the handbrake. Depress the brake pedal and it should feel firm without signs of sponginess at the top end of the pedal travel. If the pedal feels spongy it is an indication of air in the hydraulic system, which must be removed by bleeding. Inspect the handbrake cables to the rear wheels for signs of fraying. Check that the cable swivel assembly is not seized and also that the clevis pins have not seized or worn. Make sure that each clevis pin split pin is in position and the ears are bent outwards. Pull on the handbrake lever and check the number of clicks of the ratchet. When the rear brakes and handbrake cables are correctly adjusted the handbrake should travel up the ratchet about 4 clicks. Check the braking efficiency of both the footbrake and handbrake will be covered in the road test section.

Lights With the side lights switched on, check that all lights function including the rear number plate light. Switch on the headlights and check that all filaments function in the main beam and dip positions. Check that on main beams the headlights are correctly adjusted, that they

do not dazzle oncoming traffic at night. Do not forget to make sure that the main beam warning light comes on, with the headlight switch in the main beam position. Check the direction indicators and make sure that all bulbs function correctly both when the side lights are on and when they are switched off. Sometimes if there is a broken filament or bad earth connection, operation can be intermittent between the two switch positions. The flashers must work at between 60 and 120 flashes per minute. With the help of an assistant check the brake stop lights to make sure that they operate correctly both when the side lights are on and when the side lights are switched off. Likewise the operation of the direction indicator bulbs, can be intermittent, between the two switch positions. Check that all pairs of bulbs are of equal intensity and that their intensity is correct for their function. It is possible to have bulbs of the wrong wattage fitted. Finally, check that all coloured light lenses have not faded; been damaged, or are missing. New lenses must be fitted and the old ones discarded, not repaired or painted. Bodywork and underframe

The tester will examine the car thoroughly for signs of excessive rust corrosion, particularly where the corrosion points may affect the safety of the car, such as the: rear spring mounting points; front suspension attachments; steering box and idler mounting points; handbrake mounting bracket, etc. He will also examine the state of the exhaust system and if this is badly rusted, loose or obviously has holes in it, the car may fail its test. Road test The purpose of the tester driving the car on the road is to ensure that it handles properly. If there is anything major wrong with the steering, you will probably already have spotted the fault and had it rectified before the test. The tester will check the efficiency of the brakes by using a decelerometer - a piece of equipment which is not readily available to the public. However, you can do a rough test on the brakes using an ordinary house type brick. Drive the car to a reasonably long; deserted; straight, and smooth stretch of road. Place the brick on the front passenger floor space on one of its narrow longer sides and gently accelerate the car up to 30 mph. Checking that it is safe to

tes

S

SA WAM

Heavy

tread wear in centre of tyre: Caused by over inflation

ot Ba

tread wear on outer edge of tyre: Caused by under inflation

Each

of the drawings

in this page

illustrates wear which is symptomatic of incorrect tyre pressures or mechanical

“ORE

steering/suspension faults. All three are dangerously worn beyond the legal limit. It is unnecessary and uneconomical

H

for this type of wear to take place. The causes of this type of wear can be rectified before damage takes place if the tyres are checked regularly. If in doubt about the condition of your tyres consult a garage or tyre specialist.

\ _

mor. -

Uneven tread wear: The drawing above illustrates wear caused by excessive wheel toe-in/toe-out (usually accompanied by ‘feathering’ of tread edges), excessive wheel camber

Heavy

or by

Patches of tread wear (not illustrated) in seemingly random positions around the tyre circumference are caused by one, or more, of the following — Wheel imbalance; Worn shock-absorbers; Faulty brake drums or disc.

50

Preparing your Car for the MOT Test

al

do so, apply the brakes hard without actually locking the wheels. The brick should fall over at this point quite quickly. Repeat the test and

stop the car using the handbrake only - this time the brick should just topple over.

If the car pulls violently to one side during heavy braking this may well cause a failure of the test. In this case, refer to the relevant section in the fault finding Chapter. Should all appear to be well the car can now be submitted for its test. Before taking it in make sure you have the log book and the old test certificate to hand for the tester. Have enough petrol in the tank to enable the road

test to be carried out.

It is advisable to leave instructions with the garage telling them that should any minor faults be found they should be put right on the spot to prevent a further waste of time and money. Details of any major faults should be communicated to you before the repair work is begun. If your car fails its test because of a fault of this nature do not get upset about it Remember that the tester is thinking of your safety and the safety of other road users. Be thankful that any fault was discovered before it caused an accident.

Buying and Selling a Used Car Introduction You may buy a car under one of the following circumstances: 1 From an auction 2 From a private individual 3 From a trader without garage backing 4 From a garage which deals in second hand Cars. The motor auction calls for some experience and needs a clear cut plan before you go. If you want one of these models then you will have to decide how much you want to pay then find out what model, year and condition you may expect for the price. If you have a friend ‘in the trade’ he can give you a fair idea of current prices. If not study the local newspaper over a period of time to give an indication of the current prices being asked. Alternatively, purchase a copy of the Motorists Guide To New

and Used Car Prices which appears monthly. Auction buying can be very time consuming and frustrating

- particularly,

as one

does

not

and delay is likely to result if a garage has to be called in independantly to deal with faults and repairs. The fourth alternative, to buy a used car from a garage, is the one which most people take. If the garage is near where you live - so much the better. Reputations of garage vary, but if troubles do develop it is well worth considering the relative costs and convenience of dealing with a garage very close to your home. Having considered the places from to buy, the next thing is to consider the car itself. Here you must decide upon one, of two approaches. Will

you

inspect

it (alone

or with

perhaps a

knowledgable friend) or pay a few pounds to a

motoring first?

organisation

to

If the seiler agreees

inspection

there

appreciate

that

inspect

it for you

to an

independent

is a good sign but you must if he sells

it to someone

else

before you can get the inspection carried (or even before the inspection is completed) you have no ‘come-back’ unless you have paid a

know whether the car will be sold at all, or the reserve price may not be reached. So, if you are specifically buying one of these models it is advisable not to expect too much joy from an auction.

deposit. If the dealer will not agree to an independent inspection from a motoring organisation it usually means that the seller has not thoroughly examined the vehicle and does not know what may be wrong or is trying to hide

When buying from a private individual you may expect to buy for a lower price than from

something. It is more usual for the older, and therefore cheaper models, to fall into this

a dealer. Much also depends on the reasons for

category. If the seller does not co-operate over an independent inspection on a later model, be very wary indeed. If you intend to have an independent inspection carried out then it is assumed that the general visible state of the car is good.

individual selling. If he wishes to buy another car he would normally obtain the best sale terms by trading his car in. On the other hand he may, simply be in need of the money. However, depending on what terms you buy the car under, remember that any redress for

faults which occur later will be much more difficult to obtain from a private transaction. If you buy a car from a dealer who has no garage servicing or repair organisation directly associated with him, you are likely to find difficulty if cause for dissatisfaction occurs. Although you would be protected much fuss

Buyers’ Inspection Guide Preliminaries: Ask to see the registration book. If not immediately available ask why and be suspicious if reasons given are vague. Check the number of previous owners. If more than an average of one per year this is an adverse point.

52

Buying and Selling a Used Car Ask

to

see

the

MOT

certificate.

If near

expiry ask why it has not been renewed. If no reason is given then do not buy until the test has been carried out at the sellers’ expense. Examine the tyres on both side to check their condition and uniformity of tyre (radial or crossply). If there should be a mixture of raidal and cross ply the only permissable

arrangement is with the two radials on the rear wheels. Do not be driven in, or drive the car if there is any other mixture. Examine the bodywork inside and out and note, but do not comment on - at this stage, any particularly obvious marks or damage. Look into the engine compartment. If very clean - good. If not, grimace for the sellers benefit and close the bonnet quickly. Make sure you are insured before asking to drive the car yourself.

Test drive: It is normal for the seller to drive the car, at first with you as passenger. If otherwise, he must accompany you. An unscrupulous person could accuse you of damaging the car in some way if you go off alone. As a passenger, note how the engine starts and the general operational smoothness of the controls. Make allowance for the fact that the seller may be a salesman who is not over familiar with the particular car. A car driven by a private owner will usually seem to perform very smoothly as he will be familiar with any of its idiosyncrasies. Make every effort to get out of a restricted speed zone and ask the driver to accelerate up to a speed of at least 60 mph. Listen for noises during the drive and in overrun conditions. When driving the car yourself first note that the engine starts without fuss. Gear engagement should be achievement without noise. Before moving off, leave the handbrake on and release the clutch slowly. If the car moves off easily the handbrake needs adjustment. If the clutch pedal moves a long way (or all the way) without the car moving it needs overhauling which is a moderately expensive job. When moving off, power take-up should be smooth, and noise free. Gear changing should be smooth and quiet. Try the brakes gently to feel their effectiveness and note the distance the pedal has to move before the brakes start to operate. A lot of movement may simply mean the need for

adjustment but the brake linings may be getting close to needing renewal. If the brake pedal feels spongy, uneven or inefficient, stop the car and ask the seller to drive back. When you are satisfied that the brakes respond correctly, increase speed and assure yourself that the steering feels right. If it is not light and precise, but judders and the car wanders it is an indication that there is serious wear or mis-alignment. Stop the car and let the seller drive back. Brakes and steering being satisfactory ask whether you may increase the speed to at least 60 mph (road conditions permitting). Any wandering in the steering or vibrations which now occur may mean that wear has occurred in certain areas which cannot be detected at lower speeds. The wheels being out of balance could also cause this condition. When braking from the higher speeds ‘dab’ the brakes and decide whether there is any fore and aft pitching movement of the car. Such a condition may occur on uneven road surfaces and indicates that the suspension dampers (shock absorbers)

may be faulty. If a seller should talk excessively about the car,

other than in direct answer to any questions you ask, it may indicate that he wants to fend off any questions. If therefore you have some questions you want to ask cut in firmly and ask them.

Static examination If everything has proceeded favourably so far do not react with too much enthusiasm. Do not let the seller lead you away from the car when you have returned. Open the bonnet once more. If the engine was originally very clean see that it still is. Query any signs of oil or water leakage that may have occurred.

If you are at a garage ask whether the car may be put on a lift, hoist or run over a pit; you want to look underneath in reasonable

comfort. If the seller shows signs of impatience at this, say firmly that you intend to look underneath anyway (you are presumably genuinely interested in buying by now) and do not intend grovelling around when it is not necessary. Say you can come back in an hour it it will suit him. He will soon arrange for you to inspect the car. If he sees you are genuinely interested he will not want to let you out of his grasp! You must take advantage of this and make sure that all your reasonable requests are

attended to. If you are dealing with a private

Buying and Selling a Used Car owner with no facilities you should have provided for the need to get underneath the car

by bringing overalls along. It is possible to see most of the underside of the car without jacking it up but make the most of any humps or kerbs to position the car for the most advantageous access. If there were indications of steering wander during the driving test examine the steering and front wheel bearings. Look at the inside walls of the tyres for signs of cuts or fractures that may not have been noticed in the initial ‘once over’. Examine the exhaust system for signs of leaks, holes or welds and see that the mountings are in good order. Exhaust systems rarely last more than two years. Even if there is one small hole anywhere it usually indicates that the whole lot will need renewal very soon. Examine the floor panels for dents and rust. Rust which has obviously become well established will need attention without delay. The sill panels under the doors, the trailing edges of the front wings and the headlight areas are vulnerable to throwback from the front wheels on these models. Check that the jacking points are in order and try using the jack. Any creaking noises indicate that these are of no use and will not support the vehicles’ weight. If there were any ‘clonking’ noises in the transmission during the driving test they will have been caused by the propeller shaft universal joints or the back axle differential assembly. To test the universal joints grasp the flange on one side of the joint and the shaft on the other and see if there is any movement between the two halves - there should be none. If it is only the universal joints the repair job is not too costly. If the universal joints are satisfactory, then the noise is probably coming from the rear axle or gearbox. These are costly items to repair. Signs of oil at the points where the propeller shaft joins both the gearbox and rear axle indicate that an oil seal has worn out. This in turn means that the gearbox and/or rear axle may have run for some time with insufficient oil, thus causing excessive wear. If the areas at both ends of the propeller shaft are extraordinarily clean it may mean that oil thrown out has been carefully wiped away. Examine the suspension shock absorbers for any signs of oil leaking from them. If there is any then they will need renewal sooner or later, depending on whether they are still effectively damping the up and down rebound of the

53

springs. Carefully examine the main longitudinal members at the rear as these are prone to serious corrosion. If this is evident do not entertain puchasing the car. Having finished underneath, wash your hands and dust yourself off and then finally sit in the back seat of the car and look around. Check on carpets, roof lining, upholstery (wear, cracks and tears) window sills and surrounds (rust, leaks, weatherstrips) and door apertures

(rust and draught excluders). Check that all the accessories and equipment function (windscreen wipers, heater, etc); Finally check that the doors shut easily, squarely and without having to slam them. If there should be difficulty in closing them see whether they fit the apertures correctly. If they are out of alignment it could mean one of two things - either, the doors have been strained or the bodywork is twisted. This is serious. A twisted bodyshell could account for any unusual steering behaviour that could not be explained by the state of mechanical components. Take another look at the paintwork to satisfy yourself that it is now no worse than it may have seemed originally. If it is a very good on an early model the car may have been resprayed. This is all right provided it is not hiding any crash damage repairs. Take another close look! Use a magnet to test suspect areas for having been filled with resin filler compound. Filler is acceptable but not in excess. Decision If you are assessing a car from a large reputable firm the main problem will be the price they are asking. Consider the guarantee you should have before condemning them. They are not likely to get involved in bargaining but you could ask if they will accept an offer (this is not likely if you seek credit or HP terms). If they say they may consider it, offer 10% less than their asking price; you may end up with 5% off. If you hope to buy from a less secure source, such as a small or part-time dealer or a private owner, signs of imminent mechanical repair needs or poor bodywork may call for a drastic price reduction. You can often get the car for 20% less if you wave money under the man’s nose. If you are a keen do-it-yourself ‘car man’ you may get a bargain because you Can assess

54

Buying and Selling a Used Car

what it will cost to put the car in good shape. It must however, be basically sound. For those who seek only reliability and cannot afford time for other than simple maintenance and repair tasks, the best guarantee condition are the most important thing - that is: price and proximity of the garage.

Selling Much

of what has been said with regard to

purchasing a used car is relevant to selling one, except, of course, that the boot is on the other foot.

Whatever the reasons are for selling, be that you want a bigger, better or different car, you simply need the money; or your circumstances have changed; there is one common

factor: you

want the best price for it. Do not sell it to a relative or friend unless he offers to take it from you. It can be a difficult situation. Do not try and ‘put one over’ on a private buyer either - you will not get much satisfaction from it. If you ‘put one over’ on a dealer you are very lucky. Whoever the propective purchaser may be, there is a basic preparation: Cleanliness is all important. The cleaner the car, the higher the price. The bodywork’s condition, both inside and out, should be the main selling point. Mechanical repair work is usually cheaper and faster to undertake than extensive bodywork repairs or renovation. The condition of the bodywork is usually indicative of the total condition of the car because it will show signs of age and disrepair sooner than the engine and gearbox, particularly on cars more than three years old. It is unlikely that an owner will keep a car in excellent condition mechanically and allow the body to drop off around it. Attend to the paintwork, chrome and all exterior trim, clean the outside thoroughly and polish the car, clean out the boot, the engine compartment and ‘spring clean’ the interior. There are methods of doing this as explained in the Bodywork Chapter of this handbook. As a buyer you will know the importance of the first visual impression. As there are various ways of purchasing a used car, so there are similar methods of selling, but they are considered on their merits from completely different standpoints. The way in

which you sell your car will depend on why you are selling. The best prices are often obtained in part exchanging your car for a newer one from an accredited dealer. However, shop around from dealer to dealer: their buying in prices will vary according to how eager they are to actually have your present car to resell.

Nevertheless, with many dealers not wanting used cars of more than three years old it may be better to sell privately whatever your circumstances. Here, local papers, notice boards etc., are the best media for selling. It is unlikely that you will receive the best price from a used car dealer at least as a cash transaction, unless he requires a good exmaple for a particular customer, because he will have to put his mark up onto the car to resell. Auctions do not often provide the best recompense. You can, of course, put on a reserve price. They usually do provide a sale at a low price if you are finding it difficult to sell your particular car. The same premise applies when you are selling your car as when you are buying one, with regard to the actual selling price, the same guide is valid. However, there are other indications. Go around various dealer and ask them for the prices of used cars of a similar age and condition as yours and look at the prices in the local papers, and then fix a reasonable price and be prepared to bargain. There are obviously price trends with regard to time and place to sell. Prices usually creep upwards in the spring and you may be fortunate enough to live in a high demand area such as London or Eastern England where prices will again be marginally higher than elsewhere. In conclusion remember when selling your car that the law exists both to protect you and the buyer. The Trades Description Act does affect you as a seller. If the car you are selling is under a hire purchase or credit sale agreement, the permission of the finance company must be obtained first. Irrespective of the age of your car it must have a current road fund licence, MOT certificate and insurance before it can even be tested on the road. Always give a receipt and do not part with the car until you are sure you have the money, if you paid by cheque. Do not forget to make sure name is deleted from the log book and the buyer's

inserted and that the local Taxation Office is informed of a change of ownership.

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56

KEY TO WIRING DIAGRAM FOR A60 27

Dynamo Control box Battery

Starter switch Starter motor Lighting switch Headlamp dip switch RH headlamp OWONOORWNH— LH headlamp

Main-beam warning lamp RH sidelamp

Direction indicator warning lamp RH front flasher lamp LH front flasher lamp RH rear flasher lamp LH rear flasher lamp Heater switch Heater motor Fuel gauge Fuel gauge tank unit Windscreen wiper switch Windscreen wiper motor

Ignition/starter switch

LH sidelamp Panel lamp switch Panel lamps Bumber plate lamp RH stop and tail lamp LH stop and tail lamp Stop lamp switch

Ignition coil Distributor Fuel pump

Oil pressure gauge Ignition warning lamp Speedometer Coolant temperature gauge Coolant temperature transmitter Clock *

Fuse unit Interior lamp RH door switch LH door switch Horns Horn push Flasher unit Direction indicator switch

Boot/tail-gate lamp switch Boot/tail-gate lamp Line fuse

Starter inhibitor switch - automatic transmission *

76

Indicator lamp - automatic transmission *

Items marked thus * may be fitted as optional extras. Their circuits are shown dotted on the

Wiring Diagram. Colour code

B U

Black Blue

G P

Green Purple

s Ww

Slate White

D L

Dark Light

N

Brown

R

Red

™%

Yellow

M

Medium

When a cable has two colour code letters the first denotes the main colour and the second denotes the tracer colour

ari

io a

x

HP® GO |

a Bh apes

SHES OUT 9K aN

$

et

|

arn

—_—_GrT5-/-

pe

et

Oa t

rely rl 1 |

a

7

é

rm i

g

58

Fig. W.2A. Wiring diagram for Riley 4/72

KEY TO WIRING DIAGRAM

FOR RILEY 4/72

Dynamo Control box Battery Starter switch Starter motor

30 31 32 33 34

RH rear flasher LH rear flasher Heater motor Heater motor Fuel gauge

Lighting switch

35

Fuel gauge tank unit

Headlamp dip switch RH headlamp

36 37

Windshield wiper switch Windshield wiper motor

38

Ignition/starter switch

39 40 41 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 56 65 66 67 75 76 95

Ignition coil Distributor Fuel pump Oil pressure gauge

OONODOARWN— LH headlamp

Main beam warning light RH sidelamp LH sidelamp Panel light switch Panel lights Number plate lamp RH stop/tail lamp LH stop/tail lamp Stop lamp switch Fuse unit Interior lamp RH door switch LH door switch Horn Horn-push Flasher unit Direction indicator switch Indicator warning light

Ignition warning light Speedometer Coolant temperature gauge Coolant temperature gauge transmitter Ammeter Reversing lamp switch Reversing lamp Clock Boot lamp switch Boot lamp Line fuse Automatic gearbox - safety switch Automatic gearbox - indicator lamp Revolution indicator

RH front flasher LH front flasher Colour code

2c

Black Blue Brown

G P R

Green Purple Red

Ss Ww LE

Slate White Yellow

D L: M

Dark Light Medium

When a cable has two colour code letters the first denotes the main colour and the second denotes the tracer colour

Castrol craves Castrol Greases (continued)

Castrol Engine Oils

Castrol Gear Oils (continued)

Castrol GTX

Castrol Hypoy Light (80 EP)

Castrol CL

An ultra high performance SAE 20W/50 motor oil which exceeds the latest API! MS requirements and manufacturers’ specifications. Castrol GTX with liquid tungstent generously protects engines at the extreme limits of performance, and combines both good cold starting with oil consumption control.

A very light-bodied powerful extreme pressure gear oil for use in hypoid rear axles in cold climates and in some gearboxes.

A semi-fluid calcium based grease, which is both waterproof and adhesive, intended for

Approved by leading car makers.

Castro! XL 20/50

chassis lubrication.

Castrol Hypoy B (90 EP)

Castrol Medium

A light-bodied powerful extreme pressure gear oil that complies with the requirements of the MIL-L-2105B specification, for use in certain gearboxes and rear axles.

A medium consistency calcium based grease. Castrol Heavy A heavy consistency calcium based grease.

Castrol Hi-Press (140 EP)

Castrol PH

A heavy-bodied extreme pressure gear oil for use in spiral bevel rear axles and some gearboxes.

A white grease for plunger housings and other moving parts on brake mechanisms. /t must NOT be allowed to come into contact

This is the lightest multi-grade oil of the

Castrol ST (90)

with brake fluid when applied to the moving parts of hydraulic brakes.

Castrol motor oil family containing liquid tungstent. It is best suited to ensure easy winter starting and for those car models whose

A light-bodied gear oil with fortifying additives

Contains liquid tungstent; well suited to the majority of conditions giving good oil consumption control in both new and old cars.

Castrolite (Multi-grade)

manufacturers specify lighter weight oils. Castrol Grand Prix

An SAE 50 engine oil for use where a heavy, full-bodied lubricant is required. Castrol Two-Stroke-Four

A premium SAE 30 motor oil possessing good detergency characteristics and corrosion inhibitors, coupled with low ash forming tendency and excellent anti-scuff properties. It is suitable for all two-stroke motor-cycles, and for two-stroke and small four-stroke horticultural machines. Castrol CR (Multi-grade)

A high quality engine oil of the SAE-20W/30 multi-grade type, suited to mixed fleet operations. Castrol CRI 10, 20, 30 Primarily for diesel engines, a range of heavily fortified, fully detergent oils, covering the requirements of DEF 2101-D and Supplement 1 specifications.

A graphited grease for the lubrication of

A heavy full-bodied gear oil with fortifying additives.

transmission chains.

Castrol Thio-Hypoy FD (90 EP)

A grease for the under-water gears of outboard motors.

A light-bodied powerful extreme pressure gear

Castrol R 40 Primarily designed and developed for highly stressed racing engines. Castrol ‘R’ should not be mixed with any other oil nor with any grade of Castrol. tliquid Tungsten is an oi! soluble long chain tertiary alky/ primary amine tungstate covered by British Patent No. 882,295.

Castrol Gear Oils

Castrol Hypoy (90 EP) A light-bodied powerful extreme pressure gear oil for use in hypoid rear axles and in some gearboxes.

Castrol Under-Water Grease

oil. This is a special oil for running-in certain hypoid gears.

Anti-Freeze Castrol Anti-Freeze Automatic Transmission Fluids

Castrol TOF

Contains anti-corrosion additives with ethylene glycol. Recommended for the cooling systems of all petrol and diesel engines.

(Automatic Transmission Fluid) Approved for use in all Borg-Warner Automatic Transmission Units. Castrol TOF also meets Ford specification M2C 33F. Castrol TO Dexron®

(Automatic Transmission Fluid) Complies with the requirements of Dexron® Automatic Transmission Fluids as laid down by General Motors Corporation.

Castrol CRB 20, 30 Primarily for diesel engines, heavily fortified, fully detergent oils, covering the requirements of MIL-L-2104B.

Castrol Graphited Grease

Castrol D (140)

Speciality Products Castrol Girling Damper Oil Thin The oil for Girling piston type hydraulic dampers. Castrol Shockol

A light viscosity oil for use in some piston type shock absorbers and in some hydraulic systems employing synthetic rubber seals. It must not be used in braking systems. Castrol Penetrating Oil

Castrol Greases

A leaf spring lubricant possessing a high degree of penetration and providing protection against rust.

Castrol LM A multi-purpose high melting point lithium based grease approved for most automotive

applications including chassis and wheel bearing lubrication.

Castrol Solvent Flushing Oil

A light-bodied solvent oil, designed for flushing engines, rear axles, gearboxes and gearcasings.

Castrol MS3

Castrollo

A high melting point lithium based grease containing molybdenum disulphide.

An upper cylinder lubricant for use in the proportion of 1 fluid ounce to two gallons of fuel.

Castrol BNS A high melting point grease for use where recommended by certain manufacturers in front wheel bearings when disc brakes are fitted.

Everyman Oil

A light-bodied machine oil containing anticorrosion additives for both general use and cycle lubrication.

Metric conversion

tables

Millimetres

0.0254 0.0508 0.0762 0.1016 0.1270 0.1524 0.1778 0.2032 0.2286 0.254 0.508 0.762 1.016 1.270 1.524 1.778 2.032 2.286

Inches

: ‘ A : E ? E ; h . ‘ ; ; : , d ‘ .

Millimetres

2.54 5.08 7.62 10.16 12.70 15.24 17.78 20.32 22.96 25.4 50.8 76.2 101.6 127.0 152.4 177.8 203.2 228.6 254.0

Torque Wrench Settings > =

Kgm

0.138 0.276 0.414 0.553 0.691 0.829 0.967 1.106 1.244 1.382 — CSCOOONOOSWNH 2.765 4.147 88s

Kg m

Ib ft

7.233 14.466 21.699 28.932 36.165 43.398 50.631 57.864 — OMONOORWN 65.097 72.330 _ i=) 144.660 N oO 216.990 WwOo

Metric Conversion Tables

Distance Kilometres

Kilometres

1.61 3.22 4.83 6.44 8.05 9.66 11.27 12.88 — OONOORWN 14.48 16.09 32.19 48.28 64.37 80.47 96.56 112.65 128.75 144.84 160.93

— OONODOAWNH

Capacities 2 =a

Litres

Litres

0.57 1.14 1.70 2.27 2.84 3.41 3.98 4.55 OONDOAHRWNH— Bali 5.58 6.25 6.82

Pints

Gallons

Litres

Litres

Gallons

4.55 1.76 0.22 0.44 3.52 0.09 13.64 0.66 5.28 7.04 0.88 18.18 1.10 22.73 8.80 1.32 10.56 27.28 1.54 12.32 31.82 1.76 36.37 14.08 40.91 15.841 1.98 45.46 17.60 2.20 4.40 19.36 50.01 6.60 N-|COMNAONABWNH— N-|-COMNODMAWN— 54.56 — WN — WNH OMAR ON COCO 21302

= — _—

—) — —_

Metric Conversion Tables

Tyre Pressures Ib/sq in 1

2 3

4

5 6 74

8 9 10 20 30

Inches

Kg/sq cm

Ib/sq in

14.22 28.50 42.67 56.89 sf a 85.34 99.56 113.79 128.00 142.23 284.47 426.70 WN WN— ONS ON COCO

0.07 0.14 0.21 0.28 0.35 0.42 0.49 0.56 0.63 0.70 1.41 201

Decimals

Millimetres

0.0156 0.0313 0.0625 0.125

0.3969 0.7937 1.5875 3.1750 4.7625 6.3500 7.9375 9.5250 11.1125 12.7000 14.2875 15.8750 17.4625 19.0500 20.6375 22.2250 23.8125

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93

Index A Air cleaner - 33 Anti-freeze - 20.35 Automatic transmission - fluid level - 23 servicing - 69

B Balancing front wheels - 32 Battery: data- 11 faults - 63 maintenance - 18 topping up- 18 Body work: cleaning - 38 repairs - 44 Brake(s): adjustment - 21 data - 11 faults - 66.90 hydraulic fluid pipes - 21 maintenance - 35 topping up fluid - 20 testing - 48 Bulbs - 19

C Carburettor(s): adjusting - 32 faults and remedies - 75 lubricants - 20 maintenance - 20 Car cleaning: exterior - 40 interior - 37

Carpets - cleaning - 37 Chromium plate - polishing - 40 Clutch: data - 10 faults - 72 linkage - 30 maintenance - 30 slip - 89 squeal - 72 Compression ratio Contact breaker: cleaning points - 25 gap setting - 25 Cooling system: capacity - 9 data - 9 draining - 35 faults - 84 loss of water - 84 maintenance - 31

D Dipstick - engine - 17 gearbox - 23 Distributor: components - 76 lubrication - 26 maintenance - 25

E Electrical system - data - 11 Engine: capacity - 9 data - 9 faults - 75

Index

lack of power - 75

M

misfires - 77 noises - 69 overheating - 81 Exhaust system - 31, 48, 53

F Fan belt - adjustment - 23 Fault finding: brakes - 89 carburettor - 75 clutch - 72 cooling system - 84 electrical system - 66 fuel system - 75 ignition - 77 steering gear - 88 Firing order - 9 Flashing direction indicators - 19 Front suspension - data - 10

Fuel system - data - 9 Fuel tank - capacity - 9

Maintenance: battery - 18 braking system - 35 carburettor - 32 clutch - 30

cooling system - 31 distributor - 25 schedules - 22 spark plugs - 26 steering gear - 23, 33 suspension - 33 transmission - 23, 30

O

Oil changing - 29 Oil filter - 29

Oil leaks - 81 Overheating - 81 Performance - data- 14 Petrol pump - 66 Power units - data -

Fuses - 89

P

G Gear - ratios - 10 Gearbox: data - 10 oil level - automatic - 23

manual - 30

R Radiator: blocked - 82 coolant level check - 20

filler cap - 20 H

Handbrake - 21

“ccpiicgc sil beam petting - 21, 48

_temoving - 19

High tension cables - 34

Rear axle: data - 9 oil level - 30

Rear number plate lamp - 19

components - 19 Rear suspension - data - 10

Road test data- 14

Rust prevention - 38

Hubs - front wheel - 26

S Sidelamps - 19

Ignition:

data - 9 faults - 77

L Lamps - maintenance - 48 Light bulbs - 19 Lubrication: chart - 27 distributor - 26 engine - 19 suspension ball joints - 23 transmission - 30

Spares - 15

Spark plugs: gap settings - 26 maintenance - 26 renewal - 33 Starter motor - testing - 63 Starting - causes if difficult - 63 Steering: data - 10 wander - 88 Steering gear: ball joints - 33 checking for wear - 33 faults - 88

96

Index

maintenance - 23, 33 Steering wheel - excessive play - 88 Stop/tail lamps - 19 Suspension:

Tyre(s): condition - 26, 32 pressure - 18, 88, 91

data - 10

V

inspection - 33

Valve(s) clearance adjustment - 23

a

WwW

Thermostat - 81 Throttle linkage - 31, 75 Tools - 15 Touring pack - 15 Transmission: judder - 73 maintenance - 23, 30

Water pump - 34, 84 Weekly attention - 17 Wheel nuts - 20 Wheels - 30 Windscreen washers - 18 Windscreen wipers - 34 Wiring diagrams - 57, 58, 59 Titles in the Haynes Owners Handbook/Maintenance Manuals Series

Austin A35 and A40 (101)

MGB (146)

Austin A60 (172) Austin Allegro (142)

MG Magnette IV (173) Morris Marina (066)

Austin Maxi (075) BLMC 1100/1300 (042)

Morris Minor 1000 (058) Morris Oxford V1 (173)

BLMC

Sprite/Midget (143)

1800 (105)

BLMC Mini (041)

Reliant Regal (147)

Fiat 850 (168) Fiat 128 (176) Ford Anglia 105€/123E (045) Ford Capri 1300/1600 (063) Ford Corsair 1500 (065) Ford Corsair V4 (100) Ford Cortina Mk 1 (046) Ford Cortina Mk 2 (056) Ford Cortina Mk 3 (099) Ford Escort (057) Ford Transit (144)

Renault 12 (177) Renault 16 (175) Riley 4/72 (172) Rover 2000 (151) Triumph Herald (060) Triumph Spitfire (148) Triumph 1300/1500 (077) Triumph 2000, 2.5 PI (102) Vauxhall Viva HA (059) Vauxhall Viva HB (043) Vauxhall Viva HC (064)

Ford Zephyr Mk IV (103) Hillman Avenger (062) Hillman Hunter/Minx - (1966 on) (145) Hillman Husky Series | to II! (174)

Vauxhall Vauxhall Vauxhall Vauxhall

Victor FB (061) Victor 101 (FC) (149) FD (076) Victor FE (104)

Hillman Imp (044)

VW Beetle (106)

Hillman Minx Series | to |1V (174)

Wolseley 16/60 (173)

Retail price 75p each

More titles are in preparation

A full range of Owner’s Workshop Manuals also is available from the publishers

Although every care has been taken to ensure the correctness of data used, it must be berne in mind that alterations and design changes can occur within the production run of a model without specific reclassification. No liability can be accepted for damage, loss or injury caused by errors or omissions in the information given.