A Gathering of Medieval English Recipes (Textes Vernaculaires Du Moyen Age) 9782503528984, 2503528988

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TEXTES VERNACULAIRES DU MOYEN ÂGE

Volume 5

TEXTES VERNACULAIRES DU MOYEN AGE Collection dirigée par Stephen Morrison À une époque où les médiévistes, toutes disciplines confondues, se tournent de plus en plus vers les sources en langues vernaculaires, Brepols publie une nouvelle série TEXTES VERNACULAIRES DU MOYEN AGE, destinée à répondre aux besoins des chercheurs, confirmés ou débutants dans ce domaine. Le principal but (mais non le seul) de sa création est la publication de textes qui, jusqu’ici, n’ont jamais bénéficié d’un traitement éditorial et qui, par conséquent demeurent inconnus ou mal connus de la communauté scientifique. Parmi les premiers volumes figurent des vies des saints en ancien et moyen-français ainsi que des textes scientifiques en français et en anglais. D’autres volumes sont en préparation active. At a time when medievalists of all disciplines are increasingly recognising the importance of source material written in the major European vernaculars, Brepols publishes a new series TEXTES VERNACULAIRES DU MOYEN AGE, designed to meet the needs of a wide range of researchers working in this field. Central to its conception, though not exclusively so, is the place given to the publication of texts which have never hitherto benefited from editorial activity, and which remain unknown or imperfectly known to the academic community. The inaugural volumes include lives of saints in old and middle French, as well as scientific treatises in both French and English. Further volumes are in active preparation. Collection dirigée par / General editor: Stephen Morrison (Centre d’Etudes Supérieures de Civilisation Médiévale, Université de Poitiers)

Comité scientifique / Advisory Board Alexandra Barratt (Université de Waikato, Nouvelle Zélande), Daron Burrows (Université de Manchester, Royaume-Uni), Vittoria Corazza (Université de Turin, Italie), Irma Taavitsainen (Université de Helsinki, Finlande), Alessandro Vitale-Brovarone (Université de Turin, Italie)

A GATHERING OF MEDIEVAL ENGLISH RECIPES

Edited by

Constance B. HIEATT

F

© 2008, Brepols Publishers n.v., Turnhout, Belgium. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher. ISBN 978-2-503-52898-4 D/2008/0095/122 Printed on acid-free paper

AUTHOR’S PREFACE The present collection was amassed over a goodly number of years, and in many different libraries; to thank everyone who contributed to its progress would take an enormous amount of room. Some, like Sharon Butler, whose transcriptions of some of the recipes were very helpful, are no longer with us. Others, such as M. B. Parkes, of Keble College, Oxford, and I. A. Doyle, of the University Library of Durham, may by now have forgotten that they ever offered comments on one manuscript or another. By now I may have forgotten some of those I once consulted, and, under the circumstances, I will skip this step, and simply thank the person who has devoted the most time to my project. That person is Professor Brenda Hosington, of the Université de Montréal. Without her help, I would have been unable to complete my work on several of the manuscripts in collections housed in London, since I am currently unable to do much travelling. She kindly went and rechecked items I had not had sufficient time to work with. I hasten to add that neither she nor anyone else is responsible for any defects which may be found in these transcriptions; I made the final decision in every case, and a good many of them were more or less completed many years ago. Constance B. Hieatt November 2007

TABLE OF CONTENTS Introduction and Bibliography................................................................

9

Bodleian MS Ashmole 1393 ...................................................................

21

Bodleian MS Ashmole 1439 ...................................................................

28

Bodleian MS Ashmole 1444 ...................................................................

39

Bodleian MS e.Mus.52............................................................................

45

Bodleian MS Rawlinson D 1222 ............................................................

62

British Library MSS Sloane 7 and Sloane 442 .......................................

91

British Library MS Sloane 1108 .............................................................

96

Cambridge University Library Ll.I.18 ....................................................

102

National Library of Wales MS Peniarth 394 D ......................................

118

New York Public Library MS Whitney 1 ...............................................

132

Society of Antiquaries MS 287 ..............................................................

135

Trinity College Cambridge MS 0.1.13 ....................................................

139

Wellcome Western MS 5650 ..................................................................

143

MSS Containing Isolated Recipes or Under Seven ...............................

149

Concordance of Recipes Printed in This Volume ..................................

155

INTRODUCTION AND BIBLIOGRAPHY In 1998, I wrote, By 1900 around thirteen culinary manuscripts of English provenance, whether Latin, Anglo-Norman or Middle English, had been edited and printed, in whole or in part, including those simply collated. The number of recipes printed from these manuscripts amounts to about 1850. Since 1900 (and almost all in the last decade or so), something like twenty-one additional manuscripts have been edited, in whole or in part—not counting those reedited—giving us around 2075 recipes not previously printed, as well as a great many new (and often corrected) versions of some which had been edited before. Obviously, our basic database has more than doubled. Yet it still cannot be said that the field has been adequately covered. The fact is that there are at least twelve English manuscripts which have never been edited at all; and these manuscripts contain hundreds of recipes. Furthermore, when we add to these completely unpublished collections the unedited recipes which have only been edited or collated in part, and those in unsatisfactory editions which still need re-editing, there remains a total of almost 2000 recipes in need of editorial attention: about as many as have been edited in this century, and more than the total number edited in previous centuries.1 There has been some further progress since 1998, but not a great deal, so that my remarks are still valid. The present volume will add to the total the contents of three fairly brief collections which have never been edited before,2 recipes from several others which were primarily used for collation (or could have been) but contain other recipes not previously noted, and a few recipes which occur in isolation or in very small groups. My object was to gather together all the recipes which have not been previously edited, or are not currently being edited by others, which I possibly could: hence, the title of this volume. All these recipes will be given in alphabetical order, according to manuscript title, except for the ‘isolated’ recipes, which will be together in a last group. The volume will be completed by a supplement to the recently published Concordance of English Recipes: Thirteenth Through Fifteenth Centuries,3 adding all the "new" 1 "Making Sense of Medieval Culinary Records: Much Done, But Much More to Do," in Food and Eating in Medieval Europe, ed. Martha Carlin and Joel T. Rosenthal, London, 1998, pp. 104-105. 2 Bodleian MSS Ashmole 1393 (a few nota from which were included in Hieatt and Butler, Curye on Inglysch: see below under ‘Key to Bibliographical References’) and e. Mus. 52, and Wellcome Western MS 5650. 3 Constance B. Hieatt and Terry Nutter †, with Johnna H. Holloway, ACMRS (Medieval and Renaissance Texts and Studies, Vol. 312), Tempe, Arizona, 2006.

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INVENTAIRE DU CORPUS ET DE SA TRADITION MANUSCRITE

recipes to that Concordance, except for a few which are so fragmentary as not to deserve listing and excluding those for which only titles are given, since all of those are already listed. The Concordance section will serve as a sort of index to the contents of the book; however, I have not included a glossary, The reason for this omission is that I assume this book is most likely to be consulted by people who know about, and have access to, earlier collections of medieval English recipes. Most of the medieval culinary terms used in this collection will be found in Austin’s glossary to Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery books and/or mine to Curye on Inglysch. Therefore I have, instead of compiling a glossary here, simply glossed in footnotes the more unusual (or baffling) terms as they occurred. I will begin, however, by listing all the manuscripts containing medieval English culinary recipes known to me, with complete information about their editions or lack of same: it is to be hoped that this information will be helpful to others interested in working in this area. Since this information is gathered at the beginning, it will not generally be repeated in the text of recipes from a particular manuscript, and in alphabetizing I will start with the manuscript name, e.g. Bodleian MS Ashmole 1393, instead of the location (Oxford). Manuscripts Containing Medieval English Recipes Key to Bibliographical References: Acker = Paul Acker, "Texts from the Margin: Lydgate, Recipes, and Glosses in Buhler MS 17," Chaucer Review 37 (2002), 59-85. Additions = British Library Catalogue of Additions to the Manuscripts 1946-1950. Austin = Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery Books, ed. Thomas Austin. London: EETS o.s. 91, 1888, repr. 1964. Braswell = Laurel Braswell, A Handlist of Douce Manuscripts Containing Middle English Prose in the Bodleian Library, Oxford. Index of Middle English Prose, Handlist 4; Woodbridge, Suffolk, 1987. Cosman = Madeleine Pelner Cosman, Fabulous Feasts: Medieval Cookery and Ceremony. N. Y.: George Braziller, 1976. Unfortunately, Dr Cosman never replied to repeated requests for further information about the three manuscripts reported only by her, so their existence or location cannot be verified. Cottonian = A Catalogue of the Manuscripts in the Cottonian Library Deposited in the British Museum. London, 1802. Harleian = A Catalogue of the Harleian Manuscripts in the British Museum, London, 1808. Hieatt 1988 = Constance B. Hieatt, An Ordinance of Pottage: an Edition of the Fifteenth Century Culinary Recipes in Yale University’s MS Beinecke 163, with a Commentary on the Recipes and Adaptations for the Modern Kitchen. London, 1988. Abbreviated references: OP.

INVENTAIRE DU CORPUS ET DE SA TRADITION MANUSCRITE

11

Hieatt 1996 = Constance B. Hieatt, "The Middle English Culinary Recipes in MS Harley 5401: an Edition and Commentary," Medium Ævum 65 (1996), 10-69. Hieatt 2002 = Constance B. Hieatt, "Medieval Britain" in Regional Cuisines of Medieval Europe, ed. Melitta Weiss Adamson, London, 2002, pp. 19-45. Hieatt 2004 = Constance B. Hieatt, "The Third Fifteenth-Century Cookery Book: A Newly Identified Group Within a Family," Medium Ævum 73 (2004), 27-42. Hieatt and Butler = Constance B. Hieatt and Sharon Butler, Curye on Inglysch: English Culinary Manuscripts of the Fourteenth Century (Including the Forme of Cury). London: EETS ss. 8, 1985. Abbreviated references: CI; for sections, Diversa Servicia = DS, Forme of Cury = FC. Hieatt and Jones = Constance B. Hieatt and Robin F. Jones, "Two Anglo-Norman Culinary Collections edited from British Library Manuscripts Additional 32085 and Royal 12.C.xii," Speculum 61 (1986), 859-882. Hieatt et al = Constance B. Hieatt, Brenda Hosington, and Sharon Butler, Pleyn Delit: Medieval Cookery for Modern Cooks. Toronto, 2nd ed. 1996. Abbreviated references: PD. Horner = Patrick J. Horner, A Handlist of Manuscripts Containing Middle English Prose in the Digby Collection, Bodleian Library, Oxford. Index of Middle English Prose, Handlist 3; Woodbridge, Suffolk, 1986. Hunt = Tony Hunt, Popular Medicine in Thirteenth-Century England. Woodbridge, Suffolk, 1990. Lansdowne: A Catalogue of the Lansdowne Manuscripts in the British Museum. London, 1819. NBC = Noble boke of cokery. Meyer = Paul Meyer, "Notice sur le MS. Old Roy. 12.C.XII du Musée britannique," Bulletin de la Société des anciens textes francais 19 (1893), 38-56. Pegge = Samuel Pegge, The Forme of Cury. London, 1780. PPC = Petits Propos Culinaires. Répertoire = "Répertoire des Manuscrits Médiévaux contenant de recettes culinaires," in Du manuscrit à la table, ed. Carole Lambert (Montreal, 1992). Summary Catalogue = Summary Catalogue of Western MSS. in the Bodleian Library at Oxford. Oxford, 1895-1937. Thomson = R. M. Thomson, Catalogue of the Manuscripts of Lincoln Cathedral Chapter Library (Woodbridge, Suffolk, 1989). Warner = Richard Warner, Antiquitates Culinariae: Tracts on Culinary Affairs of the Old English. London, 1791; facs. London 1981. Manuscripts Information included: location; library; collection and number of MS in collection; Section (if MS contains more than one relevant section—i.e., more than one

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INTRODUCTION AND BIBLIOGRAPHY

recipe or menu section; designated a, b, etc.). This list is as complete as possible, although some manuscripts are inaccessible and others contain only confectionary and drink recipes—not to be bothered with in the end except for some recipes also found in true culinary collections, or preparations called for in culinary recipes. Abbreviations: * = not seen: information from cited source only; when incomplete, that is because source says no more. (?) - conflicting or dubious evidence. [] - confectionary only or for other reasons negligible for present purposes. 1: ABERYSTWYTH National Library of Wales, Peniarth 394 D. (a) TC pp. 41-48, (b) recipes pp. 49-90, (c) recipes pp. 119-120. English, late fifteenth century. Excerpts collated in Hieatt and Butler. The scribal numbering of the recipes seems remarkably correct: both the TC and the first recipe section end with recipe 273. While some pages have been torn, resulting in complete or partial loss of about a dozen recipes, the missing recipes are all evidently from FC, as attested by the titles listed in the TC. "New" recipes are edited below. 2: CAMBRIDGE Gonville and Caius College, MS 314/376. Edited by Debby Banham and Laura Mason, "Confectionery Recipes From a Fifteenth-Century Manuscript," PPC 69 (2002), 45-69. 3: Magdalene College, Pepys MS 1047. Ff. 7r-13r, 14r-16v, 19r. English; late fifteenth century. (I have seen only the facsimile reprint, in which no folio numbers appear.) There are 19 folios containing culinary recipes—sometimes mixed with other material—mostly representing either the "Ordinance of Pottage" collection or the "Noble Boke of Cokery." Edition: facs. with ‘translation’ (inaccurate) by G. A. J. Hodgett, Adelaide, n.d. 4: Trinity College, 0.1.13 Ff. 155-165, edited below. 5: [Trinity College, MS *0.1.20. Ff. 36r, 51. Anglo-Norman French, 13th century. Edition: Hunt. ‘Gingembre Confire,’ ‘Dragie de Paris,’ ‘Claré.] 6: Trinity College, 0.2.53 One recipe, edited below. 7: Trinity College, 10.2.13. One recipe, edited below. 8: University Library, MS Ll.I.18. Ff. 19r-47v. English, late fifteenth century. Excerpts collated in Hieatt 1988; "new" recipes edited below.

INTRODUCTION AND BIBLIOGRAPHY

13

9: DURHAM University Library, Cosin v.iii.11. Ff. (a) 1-25v, (b) 61v-72v; menus, ff. (c) 1 and (d) 61. Middle English, (a,c) fifteenth century; (b,d) late fourteenth century-fifteenth century. Edition of menus, collation of recipes—all of the second collection, excerpts from the first—in Hieatt and Butler. A new edition of the recipes in (a) is in preparation by a graduate student at the University of Helsinki, Ville Marttila; he informs me that (a) is actually two separate groups of recipes, and ought to be labelled (a) and (b)—which would make the later groups (c), (d), and (e), contrary to their designations in the Répertoire. 10: FORT LAUDERDALE, FLORIDA *Camelot Collection, MS 107. English, fourteenth or fifteenth century. Bibliographic reference: Cosman, p. 206 (but see note in key to bibliography above). 11: LINCOLN [*Cathedral Chapter Library, MS 154. Ff.128v, 167v, 168. Latin and English. fifteenth century additions to a late fourteenth century manuscript. The only ‘culinary’ recipes appear to be those on these folios, for pear conserve, bragot, pyment, and ipocras. Bibliographic reference: Thomson, p. 122.] 12: LONDON British Library, Additional 5016. Roll. English, early fifteenth century. Bibliographic reference: Additions. Editions: Pegge; Warner; Hieatt and Butler. 13: British Library, Additional 5467. Ff. 23-66: (a) partial TC 23r, (b) menus 23v-25r, (c) recipes 25r-64r, (d) TC 65r-66v. English, fifteenth century. Bibliographic reference: Additions. Edition: Hieatt 2004. 14: British Library, Additional 32085. Ff. 117v-119r. Anglo-Norman French; late thirteenth century. Bibliographic references: Additions; Meyer. Editions: Meyer; Hieatt and Jones. Collated in Hieatt and Butler. 15: British Library, Additional 46919. Ff. 19-24. English, early fourteenth century. Bibliographic references: Additions; Paul Meyer, "Notice et Extraits du MS. 8336 de la Bibliothèque de Sir Thomas Phillips à Cheltenham," Romania 13 (1884), 497-541; B.Schofield, "The Manuscript of a Fourteenth Century Oxford Franciscan," British Museum Quarterly 16 (1952), 36-37. Edition: Hieatt and Butler. 16: British Library, Arundel 334. Pp. 275-444 (134r-217r?). English, ca. 1425(?). Bibliographic references: Catalogue of Manuscripts of the British Museum, new series, vol. I/1, Arundel Manuscripts, London, 1834. Editions: A Collection of Ordinances and

14

17:

18:

19:

20: 21: 22: 23:

24:

25:

INTRODUCTION AND BIBLIOGRAPHY

Regulations for the Government of the Royal Household… Also Receipts in Ancient Cookery ("Household Ordinances": London, 1790); Warner; collated in Hieatt and Butler. Currently being re-edited by Julie Bordes, a graduate student at Poitiers. British Library, Cotton Julius D viii. Ff. 90r-109r: (a) menus 90r-v, (b) recipes 90r-104r, (c) recipes 104-109. (Incipit "De Arte Coquinaria Anglice" is on 88r, but the first few recipes are for ink, parchment, etc.) English, early fifteenth century. Bibliographic reference: Cottonian. Menus and both collections collated in Hieatt and Butler. British Library, Cotton Titus D xx. Ff. 1-16, the De utensilibus of Alexander Neckam(/Nequam), twelth century. Recipes scattered throughout; Latin with Anglo-Norman French glosses. Bibliographic reference: Cottonian. Editions: Thomas Wright, A Volume of Vocabularies (Liverpool, 1857); recipes trans. in Urban Tigner Holmes, Jr., Daily Living in the Twelfth Century: Based on the Observations of Alexander Neckam in London and Paris (Madison, Wisc., 1952). British Library, Harley 279. Ff. (a) recipes, 1-43, (b) menus 45-49r, TC [in a later hand] 57. English, fifteenth century (ca. 1435). Bibliographic reference: Harleian. Edition: Austin. British Library, Harley 665. Fol. 289r; green sauce, not so titled. Bibliographic reference: Harleian. Edited below. British Library, Harley 913. Fol. 15v, (item 12) to get excess salt out of a pottage. Bibliographic reference: Harleian. [British Library, Harley 978. Fol. 26v, ypocras. Bibliographic reference: Harleian.] British Library, Harley 1605. Part 3, (a) recipes ff. 98-118r, (b) added recipes, 119r (c) partial TC 121r. English, ca. 1400. Bibliographic reference: Harleian. Collated in Hieatt and Butler, except for (b), which is edited below. British Library, Harley 1735. Ff. 16v-28v. Bibliographic reference: Harleian. Edition: Lois Jean Ayoub [now Badley], "John Crophill’s Books: an Edition of British Library MS Harley 1735;" University of Toronto Ph.D. dissertation, 1996; unpublished. Also, the culinary section alone is being edited by a graduate student at Poitiers, Anne Foucher. [British Library, Harley 2375. Ff. 75-76. English, fifteenth century. Very illegible; confectionary.]

INTRODUCTION AND BIBLIOGRAPHY

26: 27: 28: 29: 30: 31: 32: 33: 34: 35: 36: 37: 38: 39: 40:

15

[British Library, Harley 2378. Ff. 155-158r, 161v-162r, 164v. English, ca. 1400. Confectionary. Bibliographic reference: Harleian. Edition (selections): Hieatt and Butler (V).] British Library, Harley 4016. Ff. 1-28 (a, menus 1-2r, b, recipes 2r-28r). English, fifteenth century. Bibliographic reference: Harleian. Edition: Austin. British Library, Harley 5401. Ff. 95v-103r. English; signature at end, "quod dn Thomas Awkbarow." Bibliographic reference: Harleian. Edition: Hieatt 1996. British Library, Lansdowne 380. Ff. 261v, 262v. Anglo-French, late fifteenth or ca. 1500. Bibliographic reference, Lansdowne. London, 1819. Edition: Hieatt 2002. [British Library, Lansdowne 442. Bibliographic reference, Lansdowne.] British Library, Royal 8.B.iv. Fol. 72v. English, fourteenth century. Edition: Hieatt and Butler (V). British Library, Royal 12.B.xxv. Fol. 96r. English, fifteenth century. (Later addition to a 14th c. ms.; ‘Bakemete of Burdeux.’) Edited below. British Library, Royal 12.C.xii. Ff. 11-13r. Anglo-Norman French; early fourteenth century. Editions: Meyer; Hieatt and Jones. Collated in Hieatt and Butler. [British Library, Royal 17.A.iii. Ff. 97v- 98v, 99v, 123-124r. English, fourteenth century. Edition: Hieatt and Butler (excerpts). Wine etc.] [British Library, Royal 18.A.vi. Ff. 20v - 21v, confectionary] British Library, Sloane 4. Fol. 26v. "A good sauoce for a capon." Edition: Hieatt et al, PD. British Library, Sloane 7. Ff. 93v-105r, 107r-v, 109v, 110r-111r. English, fifteenth century. Collated in Hieatt 1988. Other "new" recipes edited below. British Library, Sloane 121. Ff. 37v, 93v-94r. English, ca. 1400. Edition: Hieatt and Butler (V)—1 recipe: gingerbread. (Other recipes are confectionary, plus aquavite.) [British Library, Sloane 122. Fol. 98r-98v. English, fifteenth century. ‘Aneis in comfite’] [*British Library, Sloane 272. Fol. 48rb. Latin, the Compendium of Gilbertus Anglicus. Thirteenth century. Edition, Hunt. ‘Claretum.’]

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47: 48: 49: 50:

51:

INTRODUCTION AND BIBLIOGRAPHY

British Library, Sloane 374. Ff. 86v-91v. Incipit, Tractatus Curie. English, fifteenth century. Collated in Hieatt and Butler (III). British Library, Sloane 442. Ff. (a) menus 3r, (b) recipes 6-25. English, fifteenth century. Collated in Hieatt 1988. One further recipe edited below. British Library, Sloane 468. Ff. (a) 68, 76b, 80, confectionary; (b) recipes, 81v-92r). English, ca. 1400. Edited in Hieatt and Butler (III). [British Library, Sloane 983. Ff. 108-112. English, fifteenth century. Drinks, confectionary. "To make pyement"] British Library, Sloane 1108. Ff. 1-24. English, early fifteenth century. Excerpts collated in Hieatt and Butler (II), one recipe edited (V); other recipes edited below. British Library, Sloane 1201. Ff. 1-73: (a) menus 4v-8r, (b) TC 14r-21v, (c) recipes 22r-73v; incomplete. English, fifteenth century (ca. 1470). A student of Bruno Laurioux completed an edition of this as a doctoral dissertation at Paris, a few years ago, but it has not been published, and Anne Foucher, a graduate student at Poitiers, now also proposes to do an edition. British Library, Sloane 1986. Ff. 27-56: (a) TC 27v-28v, (b) recipes 29r-55v, (c) 55v-56v menus. English, fifteenth century. Edition: R. Morris, Liber Cure Cocorum (London, 1862). [British Library, Sloane 2584. Fol. 15c (?blurred pencilled note). English, fifteenth century; Clarye] *Collection of Dr. Justen Rudshield, MS Rudshield IFD 22. English. fourteenth or fifteenth century. Bibliographic reference: Cosman, p. 206 (see note in key to bibliography). Society of Antiquaries, MS 287. Ff. (a) menus 20v-34r, (b) TC to NBC recipes, 34v-40v, (c) recipes of NBC 41v-99r, (d) 8 additional recipes 99v-101v; titles of 2 more with blank spaces, 102r. Edition forthcoming: collated in Hieatt et al., facs. edition of Pynson’s "Boke of cokery." Extra recipes edited below. Wellcome Institute for the History of Medicine, Wellcome Western 5650. Ff. 68r-75r. English. Fifteenth century. Bibliographic references: Christies’ catalog for sale of 3 December 1986, pp. 62-63; catalog of the Wellcome Library (typescript—not a published book). The manuscript is listed in the "Répertoire" as # 65, Segal *2.

INTRODUCTION AND BIBLIOGRAPHY

17

The culinary section contains recipes from various sources, including An Ordinance of Pottage, Diversa Servicia, the Forme of Cury and the Noble boke of cokery; those of unknown origin, edited below. 52: MANCHESTER John Rylands Library, MS English 7. Ff. 4-90: (a) preface & TC 4r-11v, (b) recipes 12r-90r. English, fourteenth century. Bibliographic references: N. R. Ker, Medieval Manuscripts in British Libraries (Oxford, III, 1983); G. A. Lester, A Handlist of Manuscripts containing English Prose in the John Rylands University Library of Manchester and Chetham’s Library, Manchester (The Index of Middle English Prose, Handlist 2; Cambridge, 1985). Discussed and collated in Constance B. Hieatt, "Further Notes on The Forme of Cury et al.: Additions and Corrections," Bulletin of the John Rylands University Library of Manchester 70 (1988), 45-52. Cf. Hieatt and Butler. 53: MONTREAL [McGill University, Osler Library 7591. Fol. 85v. Sixteenth century, Middle English. Incomplete recipe for ‘gyngerbrede’: the recipe is that found in, among other places, Sloane 468 (up to the phrase "fayre water"). Printed description of manuscript: catalog of the Osler Library.] 54: NEW HAVEN Yale University, Beinecke 163. Ff. 56r-76v. English, mid fifteenth century. Bibliographic references: Barbara A. Shailor, Catalogue of Medieval and Renaissance Manuscripts in the Beinecke Rare Book and Manuscript Library of Yale University (I; Binghampton, N. Y., 1984). Edition: Hieatt 1988. 55: NEW YORK [Morgan Library, Bühler MS 17. Ff. 3r-4r, ed. Acker. Wines, confections, aqua vite.] 56: Morgan Library, Bühler 36. Roll. English, early fifteenth century. Collated in Hieatt and Butler. 57: New York Public Library, Whitney 1. Ff. 1-15. English, early to mid fifteenth century. Collated in Hieatt and Butler. "Extra" recipes edited below. 58: OXFORD All Souls College, MS 81. Edited below. 59: Bodleian Library, Ashmole 1393. Ff. 19v-22r. English; fifteenth century. Bibliographic reference: Summary Catalogue. Excerpt edited in Hieatt and Butler. Edition below.

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[*Bodleian Library, Ashmole 1438. Ff. 67, 100, 118, 120, 133, 168-171 (?). English, fifteenth century. Bibliographic reference: Summary Catalogue. Gingerbread, clarey, ypocras, etc.] 61: Bodleian Library, Ashmole 1439. Ff. (a) TC 2r-3v, (b) recipes 8r-48v, (c) menus, 49r-50r. English, ca. 1400. Bibliographic reference: Summary Catalogue. Edition: collated and with ‘extra’ recipes printed in Austin; other recipes edited below. 62: Bodleian Library, Ashmole 1444. Pp. 111 (bragot), 185-6 (gyngerbrede), 190-192 (culinary recipes). English, ca. 1400. Bibliographic reference: Summary Catalogue. Partially collated in Hieatt and Butler. Other recipes edited below. 63: [*Bodleian Library, Ashmole 1447. P. 31. English, fifteenth century. Bibliographic reference: Summary Catalogue. Grene gengever.] 64: [Bodleian Library, Ashmole 1477. Ff. 33r (ypocras), 51-52. Late fifteenth century, drinks and confections. Bibliographic reference: Summary Catalogue. ] 65: [Bodleian Library, Digby 29. Ff. 298r, 302v. English, fifteenth century. Bibliographic references: Summary Catalogue; Horner. Only culinary bits here are more ‘household hints’ than recipes.] 66: [Bodleian Library, Digby 75. Fol. 120v. English XV2; references, Summary Catalogue, Horner. One dim confectionary recipe.] 67: Bodleian Library, Douce 55. Ff. 1-79r (a) TC 1r-4v, (b) recipes 5r-79r). English, mid-fifteenth century. Bibliographic references: Summary Catalogue; Braswell. Edition (exerpts), Austin; excerpts collated in Hieatt and Butler. Collated in Hieatt 2004. 68: Bodleian Library, Douce 257. Ff. 86-96. English, fourteenth century (1381). Bibliographic references: Summary Catalogue; Braswell. Editions: Pegge; Warner; Hieatt and Butler (II). 69: Bodleian Library, e. Mus. 52. Ff. (a) cul. recipes, 68r-75v, (b) confections 76v-79r. English, ca. 1500. Bibliographic reference: Summary Catalogue. Excerpt in Hieatt 1988. Edition below. 70: Bodleian Library, Laud Misc. 553. Ff.5-6. English, early fifteenth century. Bibliographic reference: Summary Catalogue. Edition: Austin; collated in Hieatt and Butler (I and II). 71: [Bodleian Library, Rawlinson C 506. Fol. 265r-v. English, fifteenth century. Bibliographic reference: Summary Catalogue. ‘For to mak gren gynger,’ ‘gyngerbred’, ‘clare and pyment’.]

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72:

19

Bodleian Library, Rawlinson D 194. BL MS Add. 5016, copy made by Thomas Hearne in 1727; valuable because the B. L. ms. has since deteriorated. Bibliographic reference: Summary Catalogue. Consulted by Hieatt and Butler. 73: Bodleian Library, Rawlinson D 913. Ff. 52-53. English, fifteenth century. Bibliographic reference: Summary Catalogue. Edited below. 74: Bodleian Library, Rawlinson D 1222. Ff. 1-72. English, mid fifteenth century. Bibliographic reference: Summary Catalogue. Excerpts in Hieatt 1988, and collated in Hieatt 1988 and Hieatt and Butler. Other recipes edited below. 75: Corpus Christi College, MS F 291. Ff. 3-68r. English, late fifteenth century. Bibliographic reference: H.O. Coxe, Catalogus Codicum manuscriptorum qui in collegiis aulisque Oxoniensibus hodie adservantur, II, Oxford, 1852. One recipe edited in Hieatt and Butler (V). An edition of this manuscript is planned by C. B. Hieatt, but is too long to include here. 76: SAN MARINO, CALIFORNIA *Huntington Library, MS HU 1051. Ff. 62v, 72, 75. English, fifteenth century. Bibliographic references: Ralph Hanna, III, A Handlist of Manuscripts Containing English Prose in the Henry E. Huntington Library (Index of Middle English Prose, Handlist 1; Cambridge, 1984); John Harley and Frances Bickley, Report on the Manuscripts of the Late Reginald Rawdon Hastings (London, 1928), Vol. I, pp. 417-430 [includes transcriptions of three recipes]. Edited below, with the help of Brenda Hosington, who looked at the manuscript for me. 77: [*Huntington Library, MS HU 39465 A fragment of a recipe for "Sallat"; not much can be made out even under ultraviolet light.] 78: STOCKHOLM [*Royal Library, MS Huseby 78. Fol. 2, directions for serving "sallat".] 79: TENAFLY, NEW JERSEY *Galeria Medievalia, MS C 3. English, fourteenth or fifteenth century. Bibliographic reference: Cosman, p. 206 (see note in key to bibliography). 80: WARMINSTER, WILTS. Longleat House, Pynson’s Boke of cokery (1500). Not a manuscript, but the most reliable witness to the contents of the Noble boke of cokery in the 15th century. A facsimile edition is forthcoming.

20

INTRODUCTION AND BIBLIOGRAPHY

81: WELLS-BY-THE-SEA, NORFOLK Holkham Hall, Library of the Earl of Leicester, Holkham 674. Ff. 1v-80r (a) menus 1v-12v, (b) TC 13r-18r, (c) recipes 18r-80r). English, fifteenth century. Editions: Richard Pynson, 1500 ? (see sub Warminster, Wilts, supra: but this does not seem to have been Pynson’s base manuscript); Mrs. Alexander Napier [Robina], A Noble Boke off Cookry ffor a Prynce Houssolde … (London, 1882). Collated in the forthcoming facsimile of Pynson’s book. 82: YORK [Borthwick Institute of Historical Research, MS YMXVI 0.10. English, fifteenth century. One confectionary recipe. Bibliographical reference: O.S. Pickering and S. Powell, Index of Middle English Prose, Handlist 6, Yorkshire Libraries and Archives (Woodbridge, Suffolk, 1989).]

BODLEIAN MS ASHMOLE 1393

21

Bodleian MS Ashmole 1393 (SC 7589-90, 7688) This is a very small manuscript, ca. 6" x 4" (15 x 11 cm); the section containing the culinary recipes is paper. Catalog description from William Henry Black, A Descriptive, Analytical, and Critical Catalogue of the Manuscripts Bequeathed unto the University of Oxford by Elias Ashmole,Esq. (Oxford, 1845), column 1080: "The 70 leaves contained in this 12mo. or small 8vo. volume, are nine fragments (bound up very disorderly) which seem to have been parts of five distinct manuscripts, of the XVth century: they are therefore here described as such." The recipes are in Fragment 3, described in columns 1083-84 as: "3. Twenty-eight receipts and directions ‘For good Kokery and sotilteis and goud sauces.’" However, the count of recipes presents a problem. L. M. Eldredge’s Index of Middle English Prose, Handlist 9: A Handlist of Manuscripts Containing Middle English Prose in the Ashmole Collection, Bodleian Library, Oxford (D. S. Brewer: Cambridge, 1992), p. 50, states "A series of 31 culinary recipes." My enumeration counts 35. The Ashmole catalog’s twenty-eight must count all underlined titles and only those underlined titles. But there are also three groups, two consisting of two items and one of three, of ‘directions’—without underlined titles—headed ‘Item’ and/or ‘Nota.’ It would appear that Eldredge counted each group of two/ three ‘Items’ as equalling one recipe, and hence arrived at a count of 31. I, on the other hand, thought I should count each ‘item’ separately, as Sharon Butler and I did similar ‘items’ in Curye on Inglysch1 (following the example of earlier editors). But my own count is not without its difficulties. I have counted all entries given rubrics by the scribe and all ‘Item’ and/or ‘Nota’ entries which appeared to be separate; but there is another ‘Item’ heading I do not count because it is clearly an integral part of the recipe within which it occurs (no. 13, ‘darolis’), and the ‘Item nota’ within Recipe 20 also appears to be integral with the introductory ‘Nota’— but it may be an alternative, and thus perhaps another recipe. But either way, what we have here is, in fact, one or more variants of recipe 19. And, unfortunately, one ‘recipe’ noted as such by scribal underlining is also inserted into another of which it is an integral part: this is no. 30, the stuffing for no. 29, a ‘reversed eel.’ It has been counted as a separate recipe because of the underlining, although in fact no. 29 continues afterward, and the following recipe for the sauce, here numbered 31, is also part of the same dish.

1

Hereafter abbreviated CI.

22

A GATHERING OF MEDIEVAL ENGLISH RECIPES

Dr Butler and I printed some of the ‘Nota/Item’s from this manuscript in CI; unfortunately, there are several errors in the few lines there printed. Most egregious is an intruded ‘be’ which simply isn’t in the manuscript at all. Presumably at least one of us thought a verb was necessary here, but forgot to enclose it in the brackets (‘[be]’) which would have identified it as an editorial addition. Our other misreadings here were minor and may perhaps be excused as arising from the fact that we did not really work through the manuscript as a whole. At that time, we were only interested in presenting the tiny portion which could be taken as typical of cookery lore for the whole period, since this particular manuscript was too late to be included in our fourteenth-century collection. One of the most notable facts about this collection is that it does not show any direct relation to any other collection. While it gives recipes for dishes found in such widely circulated collections as the Forme of Cury or the group represented in Austin’s Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery Books, the wording and general organization is entirely different: thus while it often represents the same dishes, these cannot be said to be the same recipes. A possibly significant difference is that the directions given here are minimal. The writer does not, for example, tell us whether to roast or boil the ‘pestel’ (leg of pork), nor whether we are to grill the ‘aloes’ on a spit, which was the usual method for cooking this dish, but not invariable (see, e.g., the alternative recommendation for stewing in An Ordinance of Pottage, no. 61). Nor does he usually tell us what liquids to ‘draw’ the sauces with. Such omissions may indicate an early origin, since 15th-century recipes almost always spell out procedures in greater detail—and the later the copy, the more detail tends to be spelled out (see, e.g., CI, pp. 9-11). It is possible that this collection is an early one even if the manuscript itself is not; many 14th-century recipes were recopied well on in the 15th century without noticeable change (e.g., the fifteenth-century copy of Utilis Coquinario, Part III of CI, in BL MS Sloane 374). Points of particular interest in this collection, aside from the general culinary notes which were excerpted in CI, are that it appears to be one of only two English collections2 which include recipes for ‘Reversed Eel,’ a dish found in continental French collections (see the Menagier, 180), and possibly the only culinary collection to give a clear recipe for that staple mixture ‘Blanche poudir’—one which agrees closely with a similar recipe found in a medical collection (see CI V, "Goud Kokery," 16). It also contains the only medieval English recipes for ‘losenges’ (lasagna) with a prepared stuffing—one obviously intended for fast days, since it contains dried fruits and almonds and, optionally, fish; most recipes call for simply boiling the paste ‘losenges’ and then layering them with grated cheese and broth.

2

The other is Rawlinson D 1222, edited below.

BODLEIAN MS ASHMOLE 1393

23

The folio numbers are those assigned by (inter alia) Eldredge, and do not appear on the pages, which are numbered, in a much later hand, 86-91. Some punctuation occurs in the manuscript, but most is editorially added. Abbreviations such as ‘wt’ for ‘with’ are expanded—sometimes conjecturally: it is not always clear that a superscript line necessarily means n or m. ‘Rx,’ which is written at the beginning of most recipes, is translated into the usual English ‘Take.’ I have also normalized u/v and i/j and gathered together separated elements of the same word (e.g. ‘hereyne’ for manuscript ‘here yne’).’ 19v For goud kokery & sotilteis & goud sawces. 1. To make a siripe for a pestel of porke. Take þe broþe of porke & make þy liuor with brede, thane þe onones mysed, & buled with hom vineger, piper ygronde, clovis, maces; bule all þese well togidere & colore hit with safron. Hereyne wrappe þy pestel, & caste all above 8olkis of eyren chopped. 2. A pestel in vert saws. Make vert saus on þe best wise with brone brede & sotely grounde her[b]e, & wrappe þy pestel; þen tak 8olkys ymycid, reysons, peper & salte, & caste hit on þy pestel; and if þu leste clovis & macis. 3. Aliperd for rostid befe. Take broune bred well tostid & ley hit in alegur. Þan strayne3 hit & put þerto peper.4 4. For to make ganselyn. Take mylke & floure, 8olkis of eyren; herof make a pappe & so all hote5 put ynne þy garleke wiþe saforen. 5. Chawdrow.6 Take broun bred tostid & of þe bloud of þe foule, þan drawe it & caste in vinegre & peper, with mawe & lyvere mycid, & þe fotte þe nonys7 wrapped in þe same sauce. 6. Sauce camelyn for veneson and wilde foule. Take brone brede; draw wyth viniger & cast þeron but poudire of canel.

3

MS stryane. The name is derived from ‘alegur’ (ale vinegar) + pepper. 5 Perhaps error for ‘hete’: heat the milk and egg mixture to thicken it? ‘Gauncile,’ variously spelled, is "yellow garlic sauce," a thickened sauce with a milk base seasoned with garlic. 6 A more normal spelling for this sauce would be ‘chauden.’ 7 None of this makes clear sense. No other chauden recipe I have seen is at all close, although some call for feet (and plural ‘feet’ is more likely than ‘foot’) of the poultry used. Perhaps ‘foot’ is a miswritten (or read) ‘sette.’ But ‘the nones’ usually means ‘just once,’ which obviously cannot be the meaning here; perhaps this word is a miswritten ‘bones,’ and the whole expression is a garbled direction to put in the feet after removing the bones—which does occur in some recipes, e.g. ones for poultry ‘garbages.’ 4

24

A GATHERING OF MEDIEVAL ENGLISH RECIPES

20r 7. Gyngyrsaus. Take whi8t bred & drawe hit with vineg[re]8 8. Galentyne. Take brone brede; draw & pepir.9 9. The stoffe drey for a capon or a hen.10 Take vi hard 8o[lkis] mi[n]sid, hole peper, unonis mi[n]sid, persely & tyme, maces, clo[vis]. 10. The stuffe moiste for a capon. Take whi8t bred gratid, 8olkis, saforon, resonis corans, peper, maces.11 11. For to [make?] aloes. Take befe lechyd, unonis misid, perseli, tyme, peper, clowis, salt; medil þis well togedir & do þis on þe lechis as þu wost, & þan al þe overest12 suet with þe 8olkis; þan rolle uppe. 12. For payne puffe. Take creme, floure, 8olkis, suger; herof make þy past & let it rest an hure or ii. Than tak marw cut of gobetes, reysons corans, dates cut, 8olkis chopped, suger; medil all þese & put it in þe middes of þy lof & bake it in opyn ovyn; close hit 8if þu lest or let it be opyn. 13. To make darolis. Take mylke & eyren as to flawns, medelid with suger; þen take vele, conynge, or capon stuwid and choppid & colorid with saundris. Item:13 have þerto resons corans, dates cut out on lenthe, with gret gobetis of marw; & whan þi past is made, prike þe bottym in divers plases, & þeryn put litell gobetes of boter. Than put it into þe owyn til þe boter be melte & þe past be sumwhat harde. Þan tak it ou8t & ley þeryn þy flesch with þe spicer[e] & þe marw; þan put it into þe ovyn a8en & poure þeron þy liquet with a dische as þu wolte. 20v 14. [T]o make flampeyne.14 Take mortrwe15 whan hit is brayed, a [dis]chefull, & caste þerto vi eiren well swenged, creme, [su]gur, & peper. Þis spred þinne in þi paste as a tarte; þan [co]loure him above with safron. Þanne presse in þi þombe in [d]iverse places 8

Perhaps the scribe forgot to copy the rest of the recipe; ginger would obviously be a necessary ingredient. The right-hand edge is damaged here (and for the 6 following lines), but there would not have been enough room for another word or two. But perhaps this unusally terse recipe writer thought that ginger was too obvious an ingredient to be worth mentioning? 9 Another inadequate recipe, although it is not so evident what should be added; galentine sauces vary. 10 Stoffe = stuffing. 11 Apparently what makes this stuffing more moist than the ‘dry’ stuffing above would be the use of raw, rather than cooked, egg yolks, but the scribe may have omitted another moist ingredient. 12 I.e., over all this, on top. 13 ‘Item’ seems out-of-place here, since it does not begin a new recipe or direction. 14 The left-hand edge of the first seven lines here is damaged. 15 This must mean meat ground in a morter as it would be for the dish called ‘mortrews’ (variously spelled).

BODLEIAN MS ASHMOLE 1393

21r

25

& þerin caste rawe 8olkes, & caste all abou8te [co]myne raysons & almoundes mised, & sumtyme tak hem out sumwhat & put hem in þanne a8en.16 15. To make pety purneis.17 Make þi paste of floure & eiren. Þan take marw cut þyn with reisons of corans & 8olkes of eiren diced; medle þi 8olkes & reisons togidere. Þan ley in þi paste ferste þy marw, þan þy reisons & 8olkes, & þan a8en marw & þan a8en þat oþer. Þan cast overest þy suger. Þan close þese sicurly. Þan all þese fre in a panne with faire grece & terne hem amonge as a friture.18 16. To make vawtes. Tak marw well hewid & medlid wiþe reisons of corewnce & with eiren, wit19 with þe 8olkis harde, & with hony sumwhat. Þan tak mo eiren & all to swenge hem; to hem caste floure, & lat it be þynne as þe pannekake. Þan tak þy frenpanne20 & cast þerine a litel grece, & make a þynne pankake. Þan tak þat pankake & ley þerynne þy mater þynne. Þan valde21 inne þe sides & endes & fre uppe & downe,22 & strawe withynne er þu close hit pouder of gingire. 17. Fritoures rounde. Take milke, flour, 8olkes of egges, & berme; breke all þis togidere & let stonde so an houre, & after caste in þyn appels small mised. Make þese rownde fritors, & hereto put grece ynowe þat þey maye swymme. Yf þu wolte cutte þi appoles þinn, putte to a litell grece. 18. Item, anoþer soteler fritore. Take cruddis of mylke well dreied with 8olkis of egges medlidid wiþ flour þerto; þan take þy dressinge kniffe or sum oþer þynge of þat | brede & lay all þis mater þer on þy k[n]yfe nat þe þikne[sse]23 of þi litil fynger, & kit hem [a]pert over þy knyfe into [a?] fry8ynge panne with grece, & so fre. 19. Nota, þat rotes þat be bladis,24 radisch, persely, scurwit, fenel: seþe any of25 all till þat þey be softe, & ley hem in batour & so fre hem.

16 This last direction seems to be garbled. What would be needed for this dish is ‘points’ of pastry around (or on top of) the tart. 17 Possibly ‘purveis’; this dish appears sometimes with a medial n, sometimes a v (written u), and it is rarely easy to discriminate between the two in this ms. 18 This latter direction may mean to turn them over to fry on the other side—which would not be necessary if they were fried in deep fat—or to serve them up along with other fritters, which is more likely since the immediately following recipes are for such other fritters. 19 White. 20 Frying pan. 21 ‘Fold.’ 22 Right-side up and upside-down? 23 Again, the first seven lines are damaged at edge, this time on the right margin. 24 ‘Blades’ in the sense of ‘leaves’ does not seem to make sense when the subject is root vegetables, unless "roots that be blades" actually means "root vegetables," which would seem to be the case here: one does not generally eat the root of fennel, and probably it is the stalk and leafy part which is meant. 25 Possibly ‘of’ should be ‘or’?

26

21v

A GATHERING OF MEDIEVAL ENGLISH RECIPES

20. Nota, do perseli & sawge sodin; Item nota26 with pork ybray[ed] with a litel hony, & 8olkes with þe bature, & fre hit. 21. Dosetis. Take creym & egges swenged togidir with comyn reisons, & þis bake as þe dariolis or as flawmys.27 22. Flampane for fisch day8es. Tak figges sodyn & braide with mylke, & fresch fisch bray8ed, of28 whitynge, ray, [or] hound fisch; herwiþ do [as] a fore in flampeyne.29 23. To make rischewys. Take figes stampid drie, þan temper hit wiþ oile lefte of fry8ynge; þerto almoundes cut and reysons. Þan make þi past þyn and rounde, & þerin putte þy matere with poudir of peper þeron, & close yt well & sekirly as þe chap30 of peskod; þis fri in oile. 24. Thus make losynges. Al of þe same mater, save over cover hit all rounde wiþe a cover of paste & kit hit after lozynges31 with a knyfis bak; and 8if þu have formys32 of scalopis or fischis, do as afore, & fre hem. 25. Item, nota þat all comyn reisons & resons of corans [be] clene piked & cast into water with a litel hete till þat þey bolt rounde. 26. Item, caste salt in all þynge. 27. Item, all oynons my[n]sid, boile hem in clene water er þat þey go to eny werce save in aloes. 28. Leche lumbarde. Take a potel of purid hony & þerto putte a pynte of wyn, & to þis put ii sponis full of peper wiþe as moche saunderis till þe coloure plese þe; þerto put þy almoundes blanchid & cut of lengthe. Þan | ...li8t33 brede small grated & caste in þerto bi litill & [liti]ll,34 & so medill it well till it be þik as paste & [so?] stire hit till hit wax colde35 & stiffe; þan tak it ou8t [of?] þe vessel

26 This ‘heading’ seems obtrusive here in what appears to be mid-sentence, but it is possible that parsley and sage and ground pork with honey are alternative additions to fritter batter and, thus, that ‘Item nota’ here actually signals a separate recipe. 27 I.e., bake in pastry as open tarts; ‘flawmys’ is normally spelled ‘flawns.’ 28 MS &. 29 "As before, in flampeyne." Typically, the writer does not tell us, either here or in Recipe 14, exactly how to make a ‘flampeyne,’ which is an open tart decorated with pointed pieces of pastry fried before they are inserted around the edges of the tart. 30 I.e., ‘shape.’ 31 I.e., in a rhomboid shape. 32 ‘Forms’ would seem to be used in the sense of ‘types, examples.’ 33 On this page, the damaged left hand corner makes the beginning of the first ten lines doubtful. 34 ‘By little and little’ = ‘a little at a time.’ 35 Evidently not over the fire; but in order to "wax colde," it would presumably have had to be warm in the first place.

BODLEIAN MS ASHMOLE 1393

22r

27

& molde hit in lenthe squarly with þe same ...mbre36 til hit be hard inowe & stiffe. Here on caste [h]it abou8t pouder of canel; þan kute hit as þu leste. 29. [A]n ele reversid. Ferst clense him wel with salt & [wi?]pe hym well. Þanne fley hym to þe taile. Þan opin hym fro þe navell upward & draw hym. 30. Þis is hys stuffere: dates mysid, reisones coreyns, cloves, maces, peper, safron, oynones mysed, 8olkis of eyren choppid, salt. Breke þi cloves & maces; herewith stoppe þe bely of þy ele. (29) þane strawe poudere of peper on þy ele & drawe on hys skynne agen, & roste hym bytwene ii forkkis well ybounde with þrede all abou8t. 31. Þe sirope þerto: take fische broþe & broun brede & make þy licoure, & do as in þe siripe of þe pestel, & ley þin ele þerynne round. 32. An ele reversid & stuffid with herbes. Take tyme, persely, sauge, & all swete herbis, with oynones & herbis mysid, piper, safron, 8olkis chopped, & reisons in þe stuffur, & whan he is rostid poure on him a litill vinegire. 33. Item, nota þat all fischis þat be broulid, as dorre & gornarde, 8ef hem her sirip as in þe ele reversid, & all porke, & vele & speciallie 37 as in þe siripe to þe pestell of porke. 34. Item, nota þat all þynge þat is fried, cast on sugur above er hit be set forþe. 35. To make blanche poudire. Take half a pounde | of lof sugar, i sponful of poudire gyngire; wasc[h]38 þi pestill and þy morter & hete hem well t[o]39 þey40 be well encorperate togidir & asaye by þ[y] mouþe yf hit be hote inow, & but it be put mo[re] gyngire þerto & over travel hit a8en, & let þy pe[still] alwey be hote. Þys is goud for appelis & peris iro[sted?].

Latin follows, in a smaller script and different ink; apparently a ‘drinks’ recipe.

36 I cannot venture a guess at the missing letters here. ‘Number’ doesn’t seem to make sense, and I know of no utensil ending in -mbre. 37 i.e., especially (veal)? 38 Damage to the top right corner of the page makes it impossible to read the last letters of all lines of this recipe. 39 I.e., so that. 40 Presumably the sugar and ginger, not the morter and pestle.

28

A GATHERING OF MEDIEVAL ENGLISH RECIPES

Bodleian MS Ashmole 1439 (SC 8342): the Variants from MS Harley 279 This manuscript is most fully described in William Henry Black, A Descriptive, Analytical, & Critical Catalogue of the Manuscripts Bequeathed to the University of Oxford by Elias Ashmole, Esq. (Oxford, 1845), p. 1187: A quarto MS written on vellum in a fair set hand, early in the xvth century, with many rubrics: the number of leaves is 56, wherof the first and the 7 last are vacant. Two leaves (as it seems) are wanting between ff. 41-2. 1. "Hic incipit Kalandare de diversis potagiis;" or, the contents of the following book. f. 2-3d. It gives ‘cliij’ articles under the title of ‘Potage’, and ‘lij’ under the next heading; but reaches only to f. 29; the last article being "Ryschewys of marwe." These two leaves are written in columns, and the four next have been ruled in the same form, but are not filled up; and so the table is unfinished. An antient book of Cookery and Confectionary, in four parts, namely — "Potage, Leche Viaunde, Viaundes Furnes, Sauces pur diverse viaundes:" beg. "Lange wortys de chare. Take beff and mery bonys and boyl hit in faire watre." ff. 8-31-41-47-8b. The last receipt is, "Sauce ueire [SIC] for malardis. Take brede and blode yboiled and grynde it to gedre and draw þurw a cloþ withe vynegre do þat to poudrew gyngere and piper and þe grece of the malarde salt it and boile and melle it forthe." Hence it will appear that this work is different from the "Forme of Cury," published by Dr. Pegge (London, 1780 0cvo.) which consists of only 191 receipts. See also No. 1444, iii, art. 7. 2. "Convivium domini Henrici Quarte in coronacione sua apud Westmonasterium. Le prime cours. Braune en peverade." 48b-9d. Written in columns: the last words are un fryide mete in the second course at supper. On the first leaf of this curious MS. is written this name, Henry Gournay me p[ossidet]. However, L. M. Eldredge’s Index of Middle English Prose, Handlist 9: A Handlist of Manuscripts Containing Middle English Prose in the Ashmole Collection, Bodleian Library, Oxford (D. S. Brewer: Cambridge, 1992), p. 72, reports that the potage section contains 151 recipes, not Black’s 153; in fact, there are 152. Folio numbers in ink at the top right throughout the manuscript have been crosssed out in pencil; new numbers are (usually) penciled in at the bottom right. The manuscript measures 5-5/8" x 8-1/4" (14 cm. x 21-1/4 cm.). It is indeed written in a fine clear hand, and except for some missing leaves is very well preserved. As Austin remarked in his Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery Books, this collection is almost identical to that of B.L. MS Harley 279, including the appended

BODLEIAN MS ASHMOLE 1439

29

menus—which are, however, here incomplete, since a page or two is missing between the middle of the third course of Henry IV’s coronation feast and the beginning of the third course of Bishop Stafford’s installation feast. To the contents of Harley 279, Ashmole adds a section on sauces. It is of about the same date (1430-1440). Austin prints the sauce recipes from this manuscript on pp. 108-110, and gives variants from other recipes on pp. xviii-xix; he does not, however, give all possibly useful variants: for example, a fritter recipe in which Harl. 279 says to ‘ster’ (stir) the apples, while Ashmole gives a much more sensible ‘schrede’ (shred). Also, some of his notations are incomplete or incorrect, and he does not note that some of the ‘additions’ are not necessarily original. A hand similar to that of the scribe—perhaps the same, but in a different ink—has freqently inserted corrections above the line. It is certainly not worthwhile to edit and print the entire collection, and it does not even seem valuable to note the opening words of the recipe regularly: the only variants are usually such standard spelling variants as ‘beff’ instead of Harl. 279’s ‘beeff.’ Instead, then, the present list will usually give only titles—which may be useful to those trying to locate specific information quickly even when the title is identical to that given in Austin’s edition. The titles are generally those given in the headings to the recipes, not the table of contents. Recipes are numbered in Roman numerals in the table of contents; only the last fourteen of the recipes themselves have been numbered, in Arabic numbers in the margins, in what does not seem to be the original scribal hand. That table of contents on fols. 2r-3v is incomplete, ending in the middle of the ‘Leche Viande’ section. Ff. 4r-7v are blank, except for some ruled lines suitable for a continuation of the table. The table also skips or misnumbers a few recipes, most of which are actually included in the right place in the recipe section, and can be safely ignored except when it gives a significantly different spelling of a title. In general, in order to have an accessible record all in one place, all possibly significant variants are here recorded, including those already noted by Austin. Some of the Corrector’s notes may make a considerable difference, as when they tell us to broil the lamprey after boiling it (No. 142). A few of these corrections, however, further compound confusion: for example, in No. 49, we find that the Corrector has added three alternative spellings for "Bryndons: ‘bryneens,’‘bryndonys,’ and ‘brendonse.’ This is the recipe entitled "Prenade" in Harley 4016, which appears elsewhere as "Brineux," among other spellings (normalized as ‘Brinews’ in the Concordance). It is possible that the Corrector meant to write ‘brendouce’ rather than ‘brendonse,’ as Austin suggested in a note on this recipe, which would bring it closer to the ‘Brineux’ versions, but the letter used here looks more like n than u.

30

A GATHERING OF MEDIEVAL ENGLISH RECIPES

Those corrections which simply insert a word missing here but present in Harley 279 did not seem worth including. In this list of recipes, the page number in Austin’s edition where the corresponding recipe in Harley 279 begins is noted in the right hand column. The hand of the Corrector is indicated by "C:" preceding the addition or change. "TC" before an alternative title indicates that this is the version found in the table of contents. 8r 8v 9r 9v 10r 10v 11r 11v

1

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22.

Lange Wortys de Chare. Longe wortys de pesoune. Joutes.1 Caboges. White wortes. Beef ystyuyd.2 Gruel aforcyd. Venyson wiþ frumentye.3 Trype de moton. Wardonys in syrupe.4 Fryid5 almoundis. Fryide creyme de almoundys.6 Creme yboilide. Quistis stune.7 Bourys.8 Fylettys in galyntyne.9 Gerbage. Pertryche ystyuyde.10 Smale birdis ystyuyde.11 Papyns. Blaunde sorry.12 Brawne in peverade.13

5 5 5 6 6 6 6 6 7 7 7 7 8 8 8 8 9 9 9 9 9 11

Omits an þan caste þerto safron… a whyle. For sethe (the same water), sette. 3 For sethe (it y fere), sette. 4 For in to pecys, in iij pecys; —C: & core hem clene. 5 TC Froide. 6 Over first word of title, C: cold; for it up wyth, hem up a; over throw, C: draw; after on, C: a straynour; for onys, oynons, C: ons; omit an cast a lytel sugre þerto; before drye, C: half; swete wyn: swete wyne or white wyne; after þerto, C: temper hit with alle take raysons of corance clene waisshid put þem þerto. 7 TC, Quistys stuue [correct]). For stere (ry8th wel), styue. 8 For nerys, eris. 9 For schrede … nowt to, pile them and schrede them not to. 10 For mary, brothe, meribonys; to end add, C: in the same broþ. 11 Omits þan ley … owt. 12 For owt of the potte, out of þe clothe; before brawn, C: take; omits Elys; for meni don, þou doist; ends forthe. —NB: Harl. 279’s PD xxxi and xxxii appear here before xxii-xxx. 13 For ne to þinne, atte non tyme. 2

12r 12v 13r 13v

14r 14v

15r 15v

14

BODLEIAN MS ASHMOLE 1439

31

23. Autre brawne in peverade.14 24. Venysoune in broþ.15 25. Numblys of venysoun.16 26. Brawne17 gruelle. 27. Ballok brothe. 28. Coleys.18 29. Soupes dorre. 30. Soupes Chamberlayne. 31. Lyode soppys. 32. Soupes dorrey. Take oynonys and shrede þem and frye … 33. Oyle soupes.19 34. Charde wardon. 35. Perys in compost.20 36. Vele kide or hennys in cokenade.21 37. Autre vele in cokenade. 38. Sturion in broþ.22 39. Oystrys in gravey. 40. Oystrys in gravey bastard. 41. Gelyne.23 42. Conyng, mawlarde in gelye or in cyvye. 43. Mortrews of fyssh.24 44. Mortrews of flesch.25 45. For to make blaunche perrey.26 46. Pommes.27 47. Caudel ferrye. 48. Tayloures.28

12 10 10 10 10 10 11 11 11 11 12 12 12 13 13 13 13 13 13 14 14 14 14 14 15 15

Add to pylle hem, and hoil them. For Vynegre and a, & salt and lete them boile togider þanne take a. 16 Ends: forthe. 17 Harl. 279’s Drawyn is a better reading. 18 Omit Gyngere; C: canell. 19 After salt, C: then cut fair brewis and dresse theym yn disshes, & cast þe lire theron. 20 For second alle þinne & caste þerto, in faire gobettis and pike out the core and cast them to. 21 TC bocanade; ends serve forthe. 22 After choppe it, C: perboile hit; add after Safroun þerto, and lete boile to-gedre; ends, forthe. 23 C: henne in margin. 24 C: waisshe hit; above bonys, C: skynne; for and grynde þe fysshe, þan hacke hit & grynde hit smal; after Sugre, C: safron. 25 For ale, all. 26 For stere, stue, altered from streyne. 27 Over sethe … panne,’C: set a pan on the fyre; after boilynge water, C: & let boile well; before caste on the pommes, C: endore &. 28 Over mylke, C: cowe; for cast gret Roysouns of corauns, put gret raysouns þerto of coraunce with before coraunce, C: raisons. 15

32

16r 16v 17r 17v 18r

18v

19r

19v

20r 20v 29

A GATHERING OF MEDIEVAL ENGLISH RECIPES

49. 50. 51. 52. 53. 54. 55. 56. 57. 58. 59. 60. 61. 62. 63. 64. 65. 66. 67. 68. 69. 70. 71. 72. 73. 74. 75. 76. 77. 78. 79. 80.

Bryndons.29 A potage on a fysshe day. Caudel de almoundes.30 Gyngaudre.31 Rapey. Rapey. Jusschelle.32 Charlete. Charlet a forcyd Ryall. Letlorye. Furmenty with Purpays.33 Tripe of turbut or off codeling. Goos in hogepotte. Conynge in gravey. Harys in Cyvey. Capoun in conchew.34 Bruet saresoune.35 Hennys in bruet. Bruet of almanye.36 Bruet of almanye in lente. White mortrewes. Fauntempere. Morrey. Talbottes. Conynges in cyvy.37 Arbelettys. Spyneye. Brasele. Creme de colour.38 Colouryd sew without fire.39 Appulmuse. Salomene.40

15 15 16 16 16 16 16 17 17 17 17 18 18 18 18 18 19 18 19 19 19 19 19 19 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 21

After title in margin, C: bryneens; after pepir, C: canel; over bryndonys, C: losyngis brendonse. Omit Sugre and; before salt, C: sum. 31 Over þe lyveres, C: pochis; for þan take gode … & cast, þerto and put; for in a stipe or, and stepe þer. 32 279, … of Fysshe. Omits þan gader … round togedere. 33 Omit Sugre. 34 279, in consewe. 35 Note that 65 and 66 are in reverse order in Harl. 279. 36 Add take larde and larde it before and caste þerto; this does not make good sense, but note that Austin had to emend the reading of 279, which also was lacking in sense and may originally been the same. 37 Adds after fle þem, clene. 38 Has same blank in ms. as Harl. 279. 39 For wyth wyne, with white. 40 Add after clene, and sethe þem. 30

BODLEIAN MS ASHMOLE 1439

21r

21v 22r

22v

23r

23v

24r 24v 41

81. Blaunde sorry. 82. Blawmangere.41 83. Viaunde de cypres bastarde.42 84. Viaund de cipres Ryalle.43 85. Gaylede. 86. Rys. 87. Mammenye Ryall.44 88. Mammenye bastarde.45 89. Elys in gauncely. 90. Hennys in gauncely. 91. Vyolette. 92. Oystrys in bruete. 93. Walkes in bruete. Take and seþe in ale walkes … 94. Tenche in bruet. 95. Tenche in cyveye. 96. Tenche in sauce. 97. Checonys in bruet. 98. Blaunmanger of Fysshe. 99. Sardeneys. 100. Roseye. 101. Egges in poche. 102. Muskelys in bruet. 103. Fygey. 104. Bolas.46 105. Lorey de bolas.47 106. Rapey de flesshe.48 107. Prymeros. 108. Gele de chare.49 109. Gely ymade of fysshe.50

33

21 21 21 21 22 22 22 22 22 23 23 23 23 23 23 23 23 23 24 24 24 24 24 24 25 25 25 25 26

For slake Water, warme water; add to first Mylke, þat hit be even soþin. For Safroun & Saunderys, saundres or safroune. 43 For 8if it nowt, yf hit cleve not. 44 After þe lycour is, C: & confeccions or chare de quynce a good quantite; before almoundes, amydons or; second on þe fyre, over on, C: fro; for brawn, braune of caponne; add after my8ty Wyne, for clevyng. 45 Over þe, in þe pot, C: eche. 46 For but, ful; for pomppe, pappe. 47 For straynour, sew. 48 279’s PD cvii, Sore Sengle, does not appear here, or in the TC. 49 For make hem alle þe, lete wexe al; over non, C: Take þe; Over wewyd, C: wasshe; add before moche sothe, so; after ychowchyd, C: a quarter of a chicke & a ribbe of a pig yn a disshe togeder; before clowes, C: few maces &; before parid gyngere, C: foiles of. 50 After pykys, C: rough or turbet; between soundes and or els, C: of waterd stokfisshe or of freishe mylwel or codling, apparently filling in a blank; for or Plays, of playce. 42

34

A GATHERING OF MEDIEVAL ENGLISH RECIPES

25r 25v 26r

26v 27r

27v

28r

28v 29r 29v

51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58

110. 111. 112. 113. 114. 115. 116. 117. 118. 119. 120. 121. 122. 123. 124. 125. 126. 127. 128. 129. 130. 131. 132. 133. 134. 135. 136. 137. 138. 139. 140. 141. 142. 143. 144.

Tanne. Sturmy. Bruet saake.51 Taylez.52 Quynces. Blaunche de fery [SIC]. Sauge. Morrey. Viande de cypres in lent. White mortrews de porke. Rapeye. A rede murrey. Strawbery. Chyryons. Violette. Rede Rose. Prymerose ry8t as violet. Flourys of hawthorn ry8t as violet. A potage on fysshe day. Brues in lenton. An potage colde.53 Sauke sarsoun. Rapey. Apples moyle. Applade ryall. A potage of reysouns.54 Checonys in dropey. Pumpes.55 Caudle fery to depart with a blamangere. Egredounsy. Notey. Viaund ryall.56 Lampreys in galentyne.57 Chyconys wiþ the bruwes. Blaunche perrey.58

For powajes, powares. Omits Sugre or hony caste þerto. Omit with Wyne 8if þou mayste.’ Omit clene; for & of, or of. For pompys, pepyngys; for pompe, pepynne. For gap, y; add after in a dysshe, or iiij. For with [gap in MS.] &: in; add after seþe, þem wel; for boyle, [C: broile hem] and cowche them. For fyne, fynde; for away þe holes, away fro þe holys.

26 26 27 27 27 27 28 28 28 28 28 28 29 29 29 29 29 29 29 29 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 31 31 31 31 32 32 32 32

BODLEIAN MS ASHMOLE 1439

30r

30v 31r

31v 32r 32v 33r

33v 34r 34v

59

145. Ry8t so Caboges. 146. Breweys in lenton. 147. White pesynnes in gravey. 148. A potage. 149. Caudel out of lenton. 150. Creme bastard. 151. Caponne in Salome. 152. Pompys.59 Leche Viaunde. 1. Brawnne in confyte.60 2. Blaunche Brawnne.61 3. Pynade.62 4. Gyngere brede.63 5. Leche lumbarde.64 6. Auter manere leche de Lumbarde. 7. Soupes of Salomere. 8. Lette Lardes.65 9. Mange Moleyune. 10. Viaunde de leche.66 11. Viaunde Leche.67 12. Viaunde de leche.68 13. Viaunde de leche. 14. Viaunde de leche.69 15. Sturion leche.70 16. Chare de wardonne leche. 17. Viaund de leche.71 18. Viaunde leche. 19. Pomedorres. 20. Yrchouns.72 21. An entrayle.

35

33 33 33 33 33 33 33 34 34 34 34 34 35 35 35 35 35 36 36 36 36 37 37 37 37 37 38 38 38 38

Same omission of ‘sugre’ as 279; for aneward, above. After lete boyle, C: tille hit be thik; above presse … cloth, C: let hit kele; chete crossed out, above C: set. 61 Omit & caste it in. 62 For mace, make; add after non chykonys, neþer grece. 63 For on cloves, or cloves. 64 After and seþe, C: ham; white crossed out, above C: swete; þicke corrected to stiffe. 65 Omit Gyngere; add after Pepir, &; omit þen take … Ale. 66 For cleve ever þerueowt, clene over renne; for sware, square. 67 Add after take hit, whanne hit is over renne; omit & leche it. 68 Add after Wryng, þe Jus; omit þe before grene; omit an … Motley. 69 Add after þerto, þanne take braw[n] ybroylyd and cast þerto. 70 For 8ynes, synes. 71 Ends and so lay hit colde in þe dysshe, and þat but a litil, þat unnethe þe bottumys be holuyd. 72 For prycke, porke. 60

36

35r

35v 36r

36v

37r 37v

38r 38v

73

A GATHERING OF MEDIEVAL ENGLISH RECIPES

22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27. 28. 29. 30. 31. 32. 33. 34. 35. 36. 37. 38. 39. 40. 41. 42. 43. 44. 45. 46. 47. 48. 49. 50.

For to make flour of rys. Pome garnes.73 Waffres. Hagws of a shepe. Fraunchemyle. Appraylere.74 Cokyntryce.75 Mylke rosted.76 Alowys de beef or Motonne. To Make Stekys of Venyson or Beef. A sirupe pur on Pestylle. Pigge yfarside. Puddynge of capoune nek. Capon or gos forsaid. Pocerounse. Sauage.77 A kede aforce. Egges in lent tyme.78 Puddyng of þe purpays. Raynolez. Froyse in lente tyme.79 Payne pur dewe.80 Maselade.81 Brawne friez.82 Longe fretour.83 Rapey. Rysshewes in lente.84 Hanoney.85 Hagasse de almayne.86

38 39 39 39 39 39 40 40 40 40 40 40 41 41 41 41 41 41 42 42 42 42 42 43 43 43 43 43 44

Omit second salt; for & þat, and loke þat. For over alle, loke; for for it be wyl, and lete hit be wel. 75 After draw, C: & weissh; add after egges, and rawe creme or swete mylke; after Percely withowte, C: or malowes. 76 Add after gredel, til hit be broune. 77 For draw (mylke), rawe; add after Piggys, fete; for þen mence, and moche. 78 Add after sugre, whyt; add before pouder, a litil. 79 For schorge, schorche. 80 as troundys rounde crossed out; C: in lechis; above pot C: pan. 81 In margin: malesade; after downwards in þe panne, C: & let frie ynogh. 82 After straynoure, C: and cast flour therto; after an putte in, C: the; omit & set … fyre. 83 For abrode, on a borde. 84 Omit on a Mortere … smal. 85 For or grece, and grece, but over and C: or; after grece, C: & vinegre; omit breke. 86 After peces þeron, C: & lete hete a litil; as platte corrected to all platte; after up, C: and leche it or els al hole. 74

BODLEIAN MS ASHMOLE 1439

39r 39v 40r 40v

41r

41v

42r

87

51. Cryspez. 52. Rysshewys of marew.87 53. Lesynges de char.88 54. Fretoure.89 55. Chawetys Fryez. 56. Tansye.90 57. Froyse out of lente.91 58. Rysshewys close and friez.92 59. Nese bekes.93 60. Mylez in rapey.94 61. Cruste rolle.95 62. Chawetys aforced. Take merybones and hew hit hew hit … 63. Fretour out of lente tym.96 64. Towres. Viaundes Furnes. 1. Tartes de chare.97 2. Anoþer maner.98 3. Anoþer maner. 4. Daryoles.99 5. Another manere. Take þyke almo take iiii. cours acordaunt …100 6. Pety pernyllys.101 7. Doucetez.102 8. Crustade.103

37

44 44 44 44 45 45 45 45 45 46 46 46 46 46 47 47 47 47 47 47-50 50 50 50

Over make, C: þerof; after second Gyngere, C: salt; after Rysschewes, C: close hem. After first Sugre, C: & salt; after second Sugre, C: water & faire flour; add at end as men done losyngys. 89 For bature, manere fretour. 90 After turne it, C: & presse it. 91 After hote, C: smal. 92 After mortere, C: rawe. 93 For Harl 279’s Fyssche, fresshe. 94 For with Sugre, white sugre. 95 For oblye, noble. 96 For ster, schrede. 97 For a Vesselle, þe vessel. 98 Omit Macez. 99 For Fressche, fysshe. 100 Ashmole skips from the opening words of 279’s v to the end of xiii, Vyaunde furnez sanz nom de char, skipping over the recipes which are numbered vi-xii in 279. This manuscript must have been copied from an exemplar which was missing a sheet here: the numbering indicates that the scribe did not realize that there was a gap. 101 After Floure, C: water. 102 For forde faute, in defaute. 103 Omit saverey; after kytte hem, C: & prunes; add after þe cofyns, but lete þe cofyns; omit þanne … owt. 88

38

42v 43r

43v 44r 44v 45r 45v 46r 46v

A GATHERING OF MEDIEVAL ENGLISH RECIPES

9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27. 28. 29. 30. 31. 32. 33.

Crustade lumbard. Flathouns.104 Venyson ybake. Pety pernauntez. Quynces or wardouns in past. Lamprons.105 Lampray ybake.106 Tartez de chare. Rastons. Darioles. Pyis de perez. Potrous.107 Flampoyntez bake. Sew trappe.108 Herbelade.109 A bake mete. A bake mete rial. Crustade Ryal.110 Crustade.111 Crustade gentile.112 Doucetys.113 Doucetys enforcyd. Darioles. Darioles.114 Flathons in lente.

51 51 51 51 51 51 52 52 52 53 53 53 53 54 54 54 55 55 55 55 55 55 55 56 56

The section on sauces, printed in Austin (pp. 108-110), follows on fols. 47-48, with the menus following on fols. 49-50r.

104

Omit into a fayre dyssch. Add to title, C: or samon ybake; omit with [blank in MS.]. 106 After clene and, C: take of the bone fro þe throte to the taile bi þe bely then cast on the sewe rounde aboute uppon hym yn þe cofyne; before Paynemayn, C: bruys of. 107 For hef, lyft. 108 Add after Fleyssche, take salt and do þerto take the fleysshe. 109 After borde, C: baudes; after togederys, C: in þe bolle; omit harde; insert here C: bake; after a8en, C: opin. 110 For steke, sette. 111 For bake, make; for & salt, salt. 112 Add after 8olkys, and rawe 8olkys. 113 Omit & Eyroun ymellyd. 114 For straynour, cloþe. 105

BODLEIAN MS ASHMOLE 1444

39

Bodleian MS Ashmole 1444 (SC 7712,7778) This manuscript is most fully described in William Henry Black, A Descriptive, Analytical, & Critical Catalogue of the Manuscripts Bequeathed to the University of Oxford by Elias Ashmole, Esq. (Oxford, 1845), p. 1206: A quarto volume containing five old MSS. on paper, worn and defaced in many places; they are paged throughout by Ashmole to the number of 390 pages … The culinary collection is in MS III, of which it is here designated part 7 (the last section). … It is different from the book at No. 1439; but agrees more with the MS. published by Dr. Pegge, at the end of Dr. Brander’s Roll, in his ‘Forme of Cury’ (pp. 92-122) intitled "Hic incipiunt universa servicia, tam de carnibus quam de piscibus." This MS. is of the latter part of the XIVth century, closely written, and having large red capitals. The recipe for ‘Gyngebrede’ collated in Part V of Curye on Inglysch, which appears on pp. 185-86 of this manuscript, is the one confectionary recipe in English inserted in a mostly Latin group of recipes for medical concoctions, with titles such as "Contra fistulam," in a preceding MS fragment. It is also described in L. M. Eldredge, Index of Middle English Prose, Handlist 9: A Handlist of Manuscripts Containing Middle English Prose in the Ashmole Collection, Bodleian Library, Oxford (D. S. Brewer: Cambridge, 1992), p. 76-77 [20]. As is the case with other Ashmolean collections, Eldredge’s count of the recipes is not quite the same as my own, which depends primarily on scribal underlining of titles, although occasionally the scribe apparently forgot to underline what is clearly a quite separate recipe. See also Hieatt and Butler, Curye on Inglysch, p. 18. As Eldredge notes, most of these recipes have been collated in CI (which took its title from the opening line) in parts II and III. The list here is simply to complete the record—Dr Butler and I did not always note which of these recipes had been collated, or where. In addition to the collection dating from ca. 1400, Ashmole 1444 contains a few culinary recipes of the early sixteenth century in another manuscript fragment, Black’s MS IV, a medical miscellany which includes a good many preserves, drinks, and confections. The few which are truly culinary recipes (as against preserves, etc.) seemed worth recording here because they provide an interesting example of both continuity and change in recipes of this period. The drinks included in this section are versions of standard medieval drinks: Ypocras and Braggot. The dishes themselves are all clearly derived from standard medieval recipes, with titles easily recognized by those who know the earlier versions, and their style (and spelling) are all but indistinguishable from recipes written down fifty or more years before. The most significant differences from the culinary practices in England of the previous century are the use of isinglass as a thickener and an orange flavoring for a sauce: the capon sauce here may well be the earliest

40

A GATHERING OF MEDIEVAL ENGLISH RECIPES

English culinary recipe using oranges. For that reason, I have included one of the ‘confectionary’ recipes, that for orange syrup, since it is an ingredient in the sauce which follows. In the case of this somewhat later manuscript, neither Black’s description of the contents (p. 1209) nor Eldredge’s (p. 78) is quite adequate. Black gives only a few titles which struck him as of interest; these do not include any of the truly culinary recipes. Eldredge unaccountably divides the section containing most of the culinary recipes and confections from what follows, designating them as sections 27 (pp. 272-278) and 28 (p. 279 ff.). But there is no change in the scribal hand, nor are all the following recipes strictly medical, as Eldredge describes "section 28." Further, Eldredge states that there are 19 recipes in the sequence appearing on pages 272-278, whereas in fact there are 22. It may be worth noting that the recipes of ca. 1400 are often terser than those we used in our base manuscripts for Parts II (Diversa Servisia—hereafter DS) and III (Utilis Coquinario—hereafter UC), which may indicate that they are earlier copies. The first is given as an example: those interested can see the difference if they will compare this with the previously printed text, but it is not a large difference. Otherwise only those few which were NOT there collated are transcribed below. Page, not folio, numbers appear in the manuscript. Recipe numbers are editorially added; note that the scribal underlining (although it is not invariable) indicates a somewhat different division between some of the recipes which appeared in UC. 190

Here begynnys curye on inglysch bothe of flesche & of fysche. At þe fyrst begynnys: 1. Furmenty with veneson. DS 1 Tak clene qhete & bray it in a morter þat þe hulles gon of, & þan sethe it to it brest, & tak it upp & lat it kele. Tak goyd fresche brothe & mylk of almondes or of kyne & temper it withall; tak 8olkes of ayren & saffroun & do þerto. Boyle it & salt it & serve it adown & messe it forthe with þe venesoun oþer with fresche motoun. 2. Swannes. UC 11 . . . . þe sawce schall be made of Chawdoun & rosted with crustes & galentyne, & þat it be all blak.1 3. Hayrons. UC 13 4. Pecokes & pertriches. DS 4 & UC 14 5. Cranes. UC 15 6. Botoures & kurlus. " 7. Cormeraundes. " 1

Ending with a recipe for ‘Chawden,’ but not the same as that in UC 12; cf. the ‘chaudoun’ appended to UC 13.

BODLEIAN MS ASHMOLE 1444

41

8.

191

192

2

Plovers, mawlards, telys, larkes, Fynches & buntyngs with frutare & braune. " 9. Mortereus de chare. DS 5 10. Chapone in Co[ncys.2 " 6 11. Henne in bruet. " 7 12. Hares in cyve. " 8 13. Hares in talbotays. " 9 14. Conyng in Grave. " 10 15. Colyce. " 11 16. Nowmbols of venyson. " 12 17. Blawnche bruet dalmayne. " 13 18. Blaumanger. " 14 19. Frawnchemoyle. " 15 20. Bryneles. " 16 " 18 21. Froys. 3 22. Fruture. " 19 23. Charlet. " 20 24. Jusselle. " 21 25. Hagi8 of schepe. Nym þe thermes4 with all þe talow; wasche ham clene & perboyll & sithen hak ham small.Grynd brede, peper & saffroun & cast all in þe schepis maw, & sethe it wel, & 8if it forthe.5 26. Gees in hodgepott. DS 22 27. Geyes with gawncell: schall ben rosted. Grynd garlec & mylk & cast into þe vessell & 8olkes of ayren, salt and saffroun, & boyll it, & messe it forth.6. 28. Criton. DS 24 29. Mylk rost. " 25 30. Cryspes. " 26 31. Soppes dorye. " 657 32. Tanersay.

Top of page disintegrated. Sp? Title illegible. 4 ‘Tharmes,’ guts, intestines. 5 No doubt the ancestor of the recipe for ‘Hagws of a schepe’ in Harley 279, LV xxv; p. 39 in Austin’s ed. 6 Cf. FC 146, ‘Gaunceli for gees,’ a somewhat more sensible recipe although it doesn’t tell us to roast the goose. 7 This recipe also appears in Laud 553; see Austin, p. 114. 3

42

A GATHERING OF MEDIEVAL ENGLISH RECIPES

Nyme þe hedes of codlyng & sethe it & þe lyver; pyke owt þe bonys & cast þerto powdor of gynger or of peper; temper it togeþer & 8if it forthe.8 33. Haddok in Cyve.9 From the Sixteeenth-century manuscript, pp. 272-281 272

8

1. To make damsyns in syrop. [Preserves.] 2. To make oyle of nottes. Bete youre nootes in a morter small as you can, then take a brasoun morter and heate yt whot; then take as many notes as you wyll pres at ones & put them into youre hot morter & heate them untyll they be very hot, & thene put them into your bagge & presse them.10 3. To make an appell tart. Take past ryall and role yt as thyne as youe cane, then pare youre apples and slyce theme from þe core and leye þe appylles betwene too pastes & let þe lyde be thynner then þe bottom; then bake yt, & in the bakyng rayse þe lyd, then take claryfied butter, & with a fether baste well þe insyde of þe lyd. & then take synamone, gynger & sugur & bray your appelles as small as youe can & seasoun them with the11 same claryfyed butter & spyces & let yt byte well of þe synamom, & ley your appelles smothe in þe past, & then put on þe uppe crust, & cut yt in losengys, & strewe on þe powther apon yt as ye dyd wythein yt.12 4. To make a custard in a dysshe. Take a pynt of creyme & þe yolkes of viij egges & strayne þe yolkes into þe creyme, then put in suger, synamom, cloves & mace, and set þe platter upon a chaffyng dysshe, and put in þe lycour aforsayd small raysons, & put in butter for burnyng in þe bottom, & stycke quarters of dates on yt.13 5 To make whyte leche. Take isomglas & ley yt in water one nyght, & then sethe yt in fayre water; then take almondes & blanche them in cold water, and stryn them with

This is almost identical to the recipe for ‘Tauorsay’ in Laud 553; see Austin, p. 114. Only the title and first two words (schal be) remain, but this is probably also a Laud 553 recipe: see Austin, p. 114. 10 I have seen no earlier recipe calling for pressing nuts in a bag, but it does seem like a practical way to separate the oil from the debris. 11 MS thn. 12 A recipe for "paste ryall" in Bodleian MS e.Mus.52 seems to be simply sugar candy, but that can’t be the meaning here; perhaps what is meant is sweetened pastry. Note that the recipe appears to call for mincing the apples and seasoning them after the pie has baked, before replacing the top crust and cutting the whole pie into losenge-shaped wedges, which is a pretty complex procedure. 13 This may be the first recorded use of a "chafing dish" (cf. Recipe 26, below); similar mixtures in truly medieval recipes are always baked in a pastry container. It is not clear how a last-minute addition of butter, as against buttering the dish in the first place, would prevent burning (or sticking). 9

BODLEIAN MS ASHMOLE 1444

273 274 275

276 277

278

279 280

14

43

fayre could water & with all þe other of þe isomglas, and then sethe them all with whyte suger.14 6. To make walnottes in cyrop. [Preserves.] 7. To make red manus Christi. [Confection.] 8. Aromaticum rosarum in losenges. [Confection.] 9. To make Ipocras of pomgarnardes for them that be in a hot cause. [Drink.] 10. Conserva borage. [Preserves.] 11. Conserva crabbes. [Preserves.] 12. To claryfy hony. 13. To make conserva quynsz. [Preserves.] 14. To kepe quynses all þe yere. [Preserves.] 15. To make Inglyssh tryacle better then youe can bye. 16. To make tryacle of earbes. 17. To make cheryes in serop. [Preserves.] 18. To make walnotes in serop. [Preserves.] 19. To make marmelade. 20. To make Q....eles [Illegible title, but clearly a preserve.] 21. To make syrop of orrynges. Take þe mete of þe orynge & temper yt with rosewater & so let yt ly iij or iiij dayes, & then strayne yt & put into yt suger, & sethe yt tyll yt [turns] into a syrrop. 22. To make syrope of vyletes15 or myntes & of all other floures. 23. To make alle maner of oyles of earbes and flowres. 24. A purgatyve. 25. Another purgative. 26. To make a sallat of spynages or lettyce. Take lettys or spynage & sethe yt well tyll yt be very tender, then chop yt fyne & put into yt iiij yolkes of egges & sum butter, & sethe yt well on a chafyng dysshe of coles; & when yt is soden put into it a lytle vergus & suger, and cast suger on yt. Ye must put in a lytle salte to þe sethyng of þe erbes, & when ye take out þe erbes ye must pres out all þe water.16 27. A sauce for a capoun. Take red wyne or elles bastard or malmseye & put into yt þe gravye of þe capoun & a lytle syrop of orrenge & mynt þe py...17 fyndlye [?] in yt, & yf

Joop van Witteveen has informed me (verbally) that isinglass, made from soaking the swim bladders of sturgeons, is the substance termed "fish glue" by Maria Van Winter, who reported its use in a sixteenthcentury Dutch ‘galentine’ preparation. The OED’s earliest citation for the word is dated 1545. 15 MS vyleles. 16 Obviously, this is not a ‘salad’ by medieval (or modern) standards. Elizabethan ‘sallats’ seem to have been all sorts of things, raw or cooked, served cold, generally with oil and vinegar. 17 Binding obscures end of word.

44

281

A GATHERING OF MEDIEVAL ENGLISH RECIPES

nede be put in synamon, gynger & sugar & ley þe anyssed & pylle18 upon þe syppates. 28. Dyatriapipencom. [? —a medicine.] 29. To make alowes. Take the yolkes of eges, suete suot [SIC] fynely mynst & þe crumes of manchet, small raysons, dates mynced, clowes & mace, suger, synamom, gynger, & meng all these togeder, & then cut your vele or mutton in thyn slyces & roule the same in them, & so put yt on þe spyt, & bast yt well; & for your sause take vyneger, synamon, gynger, suger, & saunders.19 30. A braket with ale and spices, devysed by þe Kynges grandom. The remaining recipes in this series are purely medical.

18

? This could be ’pykke.’ This recipe differs from earlier recipes for the same dish only in adding dried fruits and more spices: additions often typical of the late fifteenth century; it retains the original title (‘birds’) rather than corrupting it to the ‘olives’ found in later Renaissance recipes.

19

BODLEIAN MS E. MUS. 52

45

Bodleian MS e. Mus. 52 (SC 3510) The description in Falconer Madan, Summary Catalogue, Vol. II, Part II (Oxford, 1937), p. 66, is as follows: "In English, on paper, written early in the 16th century; 12 3/8 x 8 3/4 in., 1 + 80 leaves." Medical pieces: 1. (foll. 2,46) [recipes of the School of Salerno] The first leaf ... is now fol. 46; and fol. 49 should follow fol. 8. 2. (foll. 33v, - 81) [Medical recipes, astronomical notes, weights and measures. Other miscellany.] 3. fol. 62. [Lapidary …]at fol. 68 101 cooking recipes, followed by a prophecy of sir John Ball (beg. ’The tyme shell com the mone shall ourelede the sonne’, fol. 76), and more ‘cookery’ recipes [i.e., confections]. 4. fol. 80v. A Dietary sometimes attributed to John Lydgate …" This description is not quite correct: the manuscript measures 11.5 x 8 in., or 29.5 x 21 cm. The manuscript is written in a number of different hands, many of which, and certainly that of the culinary section, look like fifteenth, not sixteenth, century writing. The recipes are on fols. 68-75; they are numbered, immediately after each recipe title, in Arabic numerals of an early type, 1-101. There is no incipit or explicit, but there is a red hand drawn in the upper right margin pointing to the first words of the first recipe. Most are familiar, but there are real oddities, including 25, "for the feste of seynt laurens, Crapee." Whatever the etymology of this odd name may be, it has nothing to do with ‘crepes.’ A separate confectionary group of 26 (or 23? see below) recipes begins on 75v; it includes a second Chare de Quince recipe and one for "paste Ryall," which C. Anne Wilson says (in Petits Propos Culinaires 8, p. 22) is a title for marzipan, but this sugary confection contains no almonds. It ends with "Aqua Arden," 79r, unless we count the three recipes added in a different ink. A signature in a clearly sixteenth-century hand at the bottom of 79r is that of "Henry Roffe": but this probably does not mean he was taking credit for the immediately preceding recipes, which seem to be in a different ink from those above—or possibly any of the recipes at all. The ink changes after "Aqua Arden" and the nature of the added recipes looks strictly medical (as against confectionary); the hand may also be different, but not as different as the two lines by Henry Roffe. The rest of the manuscript is mostly medical. While as a whole parallel to neither the Ordinance of Pottage (ed. Hieatt; hereafter referred to as OP) nor the Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery Books (ed. Austin; hereafter CB) collections, the culinary section has some recipes of both families, e.g. 22, "Sawmon irostede in sauce," almost word-for-word that of OP 64. Recipe 6, "Blanche Braune," is comparable to the OP recipe—A.7, missing in my base manuscript (Beinecke 163) although listed in its TC—but somewhat elaborated

46

A GATHERING OF MEDIEVAL ENGLISH RECIPES

and thus probably later, as the whole collection must be. Bruno Laurioux took the catalog description of ‘16th century’ seriously and thus this was omitted from the Répertoire. But the recipes represented are often early ones, including a number which are almost unchanged Forme of Cury (part IV of Curye on Inglysch, ed. Hieatt and Butler; hereafter FC) recipes. Furthermore, the way the recipes which parallel the CB collections echo now one, now the other, suggests that this manuscript drew on the source of both Harleian 279 and Harleian 4016, and may, thus, often represent earlier readings. It is also interesting that when it echoes 4016, it usually has the readings of Douce 55. But it may or may not be a more accurate copy of its original than Douce 55: for example, it does not have Douce’s omission in the ‘Maumone’ recipe (20), which may be either a slip of a copyist’s eye or a correction of a superfluous repetition. One series of recipes for which I have found no parallels is recipes 25 - 35; the series starts with the heading "ffor the feste of seynt laurens," and ends, "Explicit festum sct laurencz." The Feast of St. Lawrence is August 10, so it is difficult to see why the recipes in this group include no flesh—all but the two containing eggs would have been suitable for Lent—and are all very sweet, most of them being downright confections. That these were to be prepared in August no doubt explains the unusual directions to "harden" or bake pastries in the sun, rather than an oven, in recipes 27, 28, 34, and 35. Another group of unparalleled recipes, 42 - 47, consists of familiar dishes, but the details and wording are not those of other manuscripts I know. A few more recipes of no particular group occurring towards the end, but not quite grouped together, are, for the most part, also variants of familiar recipes. There are in all over thirty of the 101 recipes for which I know no particular source collection. These unparalleled recipes are the only ones given in full here; those from familiar sources are identified by page references to the printed editions, with only the opening words and any significant variants cited. However, the variants and odd errors are often significant enough so that more than a few words are cited here. While numbers in the manuscript follow the title rubrics, they are here transposed to precede them. Numbers which follow on the right are, unless otherwise indicated, page numbers for the CB collections, since Austin did not number the recipes in both principal collections; numbers for the other collections are the number in the collection, not the page number. 68r

1

1. Partryche stewyde Take fayr myghtye brothe of befe …1 2. Smale byrdes istewyde. Take smale byrdes & pull þem & …

Agreeing with the Douce 55 reading, no significant variants.

9 9

BODLEIAN MS E. MUS. 52

68v

69r

2

47

3. Sause for a lampray. 99 Take a quyke lampray & late hym blode … 4. Brawne peverade. 71-2 Take wyne & pouder of cannell & drawe …to thynne but evyne.2 5. Brawne en comfet. 71 Take fresche braune & sethe yt ynogh & …3 6. Blanche Braune. 71; cf. OP A.7 Take fresch braune & mynce it smalle, & almandes iblaunched & grynde hem in a morter & drawe hem thorowe a streynour with ale into a styff mylke; & do yt into a pott, & sugur, & boyll all togeder to yt be ryght styffe; & þen take it uppe & cast it in to a fayre basyn & let it stonde þer in to yt be colde. & þen take a knyffe & leche yt fayre but not to thynne, & serve it forth a leche or too in a dysche. 7. Another maner Brawne peverade. 714 Take my8ghtye brothe of beffe or capon þen tak fayre clene fresche brawne … not inoghe and yf yt be fresshe brawne roste hyt but not inoghe & þen lech hyt in feyr pecyse & cast … take onyons & pyll … 5 8. Perys in composte. 12, 87-8 Take6 wyne & canell & a grette dell of swete wyne & sugur …7 9. Quyns or Wardons in paste. 51 Take & make fayre rownde coffyns of fayre paste… & gynger, & put yt in þe same maner in þe quyncyse or wardons & let hem bake ynogh, & þen serve hem forth hoote. 10. Leche lumbarde. 35, 92 Take dates & do awey þe stonys & seth …8 11. Another Leche lumbarde. 35, 93 Take fayre hony claryfyde on þe fyr to hyt wex … 12. Brawne ffreyes. 43 Take brawne & cut hym þynne & 8olkes egges & … 13. Pety pervant. 509 Take fayre flour & safferon sugur & salte … 14. Lampurns in Galentyne. 100 Take brede & stepe yt in wyne & venegere …

The ending is the only significant variant from the CB versions. Agrees with 4016, not 279. "Browne in egurdouce." 5 Note a fair amount of elaboration here. 6 ‘wyl’ crossed out. 7 Includes option of ‘charde quyns,’ omits initial ginger. 8 Omits second dose of wine (like 279) but calls for ‘swete’ wine (like 4016); unlike either, ends with ‘clarette’ for ‘clareye.’ 9 Pety Pernollys. 3 4

48

69v

70r

70v

10

A GATHERING OF MEDIEVAL ENGLISH RECIPES

15. Soppys chamburlayne. 11, 90 Take wyne & poudor of cannell & pouder of gynger & … 16. Gele de clare.10 25-6, 86 Take calfes fete & scalde hem fayre & ley hem in fayr water & lete hem wex whyet … haunches of fele … fleshe be hyllede over … 11 17. Gele de peschon. 26, 95 Take newe pykys & ray & drawe hem … 12 18. Brayne Cuxhe.13 15, 91 Take wyne & put yt in a potte & claryfyede honey & saunders & pouder of peper, cannell … 19. Capon en comfete. 115 (Douce 55) Take fayr freshe brothe & wyne, percely … 14 20. Maumone. 88 Take vernage or other stronge wyne þe beste þat 8e may fynde … 15 21. Vyande Ryall. 32 Take goode almondes mylke & do hit in a clene potte … 22. Sawmon irostede in sauce. OP 16316 Take & cutte a sawmon rownde in peces, roste hem . . . 23. Cownate. FC 2017 Take quynce & pare hem & pyke out þe beste … whych grece … do þerin pouder gyynger & safferon & loke yt be a 18 24. Lumbardys mustarde. FC 150 Take mustarde sede wheshe hyt & dry hit …19 25. For the feste of Seynt Laurens, Crapee20 Take fayr almundes; grynde hem & temper hem with rede wyne & draw hem with venegur, & þen per[t] hem in too vesselles & sett hem in too erthen pottes. & seson upe þe ton21 with þe same wyne þat he is drawne with, & alay with pouder of canell drawn. & fyll hym full of þe kyrnelles

CB ‘chare’ is correct. Some variants agree with Douce readings: ‘legges and sette,’ ‘clere,’ etc. 12 Agrees with Douce variants, except ‘ray’ for ‘righ,’ and for ‘set … cold’ just ‘geve it forth.’ 13 This is the recipe called ‘Brewes’ in Douce 55 (48v-49r) differing only in that figs are omitted (perhaps by error) and the ending tells us to serve it "al hoote" instead of "running." (OP Brineex, H. 279 Bryndons, 4016 Prenade, 5467 Brineux—etc.). 14 Omits verjuice. 15 Omits wine for washing pine nuts; agrees with Douce on ‘amydons’ for ‘Almondes’ (the latter is probably correct) and most other variants, but does not have omission from ‘aley’ to ‘ley.’ 16 Close to CB 102. 17 Close to OP 94 ‘Cold lech viaund.’ 18 Scribe did not copy ending; FC version ends, ‘and loke þat it be yleesshed.’ ‘Best’ here and in FC is an error; OP’s ‘buyst’ is a better spelling: see OP glossary; and note that ‘whych’ above is an error for ‘whyte,’ white. 19 Omits ‘when þou wilt spende þem.’ 20 I cannot explain the etymology of this title; it certainly has nothing to do with ‘crepes.’ 21 I.e., one of the two. 11

BODLEIAN MS E. MUS. 52

49

of walshe nottes22 pellyde clene & poudere of graynes & safferon, & serve it forth. & draw þe other pertys with colde mylk ryghte thyke; þen take perys parede & quarter hem & plante þe dyshe full. 26. Potage ryall. Take fyges grynde hem dry with lycour of esey23, & when þey be smeth24 drawe hem with ii stronge men [SIC] als well as 8e may & perte þem in ii pertes, & temper upe þe ton25 pertye als styffe as morturos26 & put þerto canell, sugur, & gyngur, & a lytell venegur, & serve yt forth.27 27. A bake mete. Do to þe other pertye canell, gyngur, sugur, & corauns, & toyll hem well togedere. & then make your paste with rawe creme & sugur, & rere hem & set hem in a hote place a8ens þe son, & couche your stuff in þe coffyn & plant hem with cloves, & strewe over with blaunche pouder inogh, & serve yt forth.28 28. A leche bastarde. Take pot sugur & drawe it with29 a straynour, & grynde dates drye als smal as 8e may & medell hem togedere tyll þey be as styffe as þei may be. Put þer to pouder of peper, cloves, sugur, & a quantyte of safferoun, & sett hem a8ense þe sone to hit be styffe to leche.30 29. The secunde cours. Blaunche bruete. Take blaunche almoundes in colde water; grynde hem smale. Drawe hem with why8te wyne & cast to hem fyges smale myncede, & put to poudere of gyngur inogh & suger, & serve it forthe. 30. Perys morles.31 Take perys parede clene. Grynde hem smeth & drawe hem thorowe a straynour with rawe creme alse styff as 8e may; seson hit upe with poudere of gynger & do to hem saunders drawn with wyne & sugur, & serve hit forthe. 31. Rape ryalle.

22

Walnuts. Osey, a sweet Alsatian wine. 24 Smooth. 25 The next recipe tells us what to do with the other half. 26 Second ‘r’ above line, with a caret indicating it goes here. 27 Note re the thickness of mortrews. 28 The filling is the ‘Potage ryall’ immediately above. 29 Above line, with caret. 30 It is not clear why this ‘leche’ is ‘bastard’; such dishes rarely have meat in them, so it cannot be the omission of meat. Perhaps the reference is to the sweet wine referred to below as "wyne bastarde," but if so wine has been omitted from the recipe. 31 Cf. "Applemoys," applesauce; but the apples in such recipes are always cooked. 23

50

71r

32

A GATHERING OF MEDIEVAL ENGLISH RECIPES

Take fyges & grynde hem. Drawe hem, temper hem upe with bastarde.32 Seson hyt with canell & peper & a lytell venegur, & gyff hem colour with safferan & serve hit forth.33 32. Crestede. Take sugur & wyne bastarde & canell & amadoun, & drawe hem all togedere & seson hem with venegur & powdere of graynys, & colour with tournsole &c.34 33. Mesegewe. Take drye dates; pare hem, grynde hem in a morter, drawe hem with raspyse35. Gyffe hem cannell inowgh & venegur, & powdere of graynes inogh. Plante hem full of almoundes iblaunchede, & mynce hem smale &c.36 34. Leche ryall. Take raysons of malyke37, fyges & dates; grynde hem smeth. Drawe hem upe with malvesyie38 als byge as 8e may & with poudere of canell, & do to poudere of graynes & gyngur inowgh39, & put yt in a fayre vessell & sett hit a8ens þe sonne to hit be styff for to [be] lechede &c. 35. Flawne ryall. Take bastarde wyne, egges, & sugur & drawe hem togeder, & make a fayr paste of flour þerof. Þen make þe cofyne & drye hem in þe son. Þen grynde dates; drawe hem with rawe creme & do to poudere marchaunt ynogh, & toyll hem with raysouns of core[n]s & wardons smale myncede smale inogh, & couch hem in cofens, & plant hem with cloves &c. Explicit festum sct laurencz.40 36. Soppes in Galentyne. FC 13341 Take poudre of galyngale & wyne, sugur, & salt; perboyle hit togedere. Þan take brede & toste hit & couch hit in dysches, & pore þe lycour þer upon &c. 37. Pyys the paryse. OP 13142 43 Take smythe buttes of porke & buttes of vele … 38. A bake mete opyne. OP 137 Take kydnes of a kalfe with þe sewete & sume of þe …

This must be the ‘wyne bastarde’ called for in the next recipe, a sweet wine. This is somewhat similar to OP’s ‘Rape Ryall,’ but much simpler. 34 ‘&c’ no doubt means "serve it forth"; I have no clue what the title means. This is certainly not a ‘crustade,’ nor does any recipe remotely resemble this one. 35 Raspis, a wine. 36 Another unprecedented recipe with an inexplicable name. 37 Malaga, presumably. 38 Malmsey. 39 MS & inowgh. 40 Cf. 25 above. 41 End slightly reworded. 42 Similar to CB 53 & 75. 43 For CB 75 "and smyte". 33

BODLEIAN MS E. MUS. 52

71v

44 45 46 47 48 49 50

51

39. A Bake mete colde. OP 138 Take & grynde reysons & y8f þu wyle þu male44 boyll fyges … 40. Creme ryall.45 Take creme or46 mylke; þen take fayre wheyt brede & breke in creme or in þe mylke, whether hit be, & sett hit upon þe fyre tyll hit be warme. & þan drawe hit thorwe a streynour & put hit in a fayre potte & sett hit over þe fyre tyll þey boyll almoste, & tyll hit be skylfull thyke; & þen caste a ladell foll more or lesse of botter þerto & a goode quantite of sugur & a lytell salte, & put hit in dyshes in þe maner of morturos. 41. Payn purdewe. 83 Take fayre 8olkes of egges & try hem fro þe whyte …47 42. To make alowyz yn syrype. Take beffe of þe48 clode & kytte hit thyne as þu mayste, & take harde 8olkes of egges & mary & peper, safferon, & sugur or hony, & salt; medele all togedere & put hit unto þe leches of beffe, & role hit togedere & put on a broche, & roste hit brown. Þen take wyne, canell, & poudere of cloves & gyngur & reysons of coranse, & boyll þem togedere. Þen take þe beffe irostede & ley hit in dyshes & put þe syrrype therupon & serve it forth. 43. Brewette of Almayne.49 Take almondes & blaunch hem & grynde hem, & temper hem with clene brothe. Þe[n] take chekens & hew hem smale & perboyll hem; þen pyke of þe skyne. Þen take þe almondes mylke & put þem togeder to sethe, & put þerto cloves, maces, & corauns & pynys, & sawnders mych, & let hem boyll togeder to þe chekens be inowgh, & ster hit from qualyng; & cast þer to moche sugur, pouder gyngur moche, & venegur a lytell, & salte, & serve hit forthe. 44. Brewett Sarsyne.50 Take almonde mylke as þe fyrst made, þen take pullettes & porke of þe rybbes & hew hem in gobettes & perboyll hem well togedere, & take of þe skyn of þe pollottes. Þen pute hit unto þe mylke & onyons, & cut brede. Take coranse & lete boyll togedere, & when þe fleshe is tendour cast þerto sugur, gyngur, wyne, & vynegur. þen take alknete & fry it esely for brynnyng of þe colour; when it ys colour, strayn yt into þe brewede & serve yt forth.

Miswritten ‘maie’; OP ‘may.’ || OP 76 & CB 8 & 92, Creme Boylede/boiled. MS ‘of’: what follows makes it clear this is a miswritten ‘or’. ‘whyte brede’ for ‘manged brede/manchet’; ‘fayr grece’ for ‘fressh grece.’ ‘þe’ inserted over line. Scribe blotted ‘Brewett’ so badly that he found it necessary to repeat it. Saracen.

52

72r

51

A GATHERING OF MEDIEVAL ENGLISH RECIPES

45. Brewette Sake.51 Take vele & hewe hit small & cast hyt into a potte. Take onyons & perslye ihewed small & caste þerto, & when hit hath boyllede aly it upe with brede, & cast þerto maces & cloves, peper & canell, & boyll hit togeder. Take wyne moche or venegur & put þerto, & serve hit forthe. 46. Chykynus in curtney.52 Take small cheknes & scalde hem & drawe hem, & frye hem brown in grese. Þen take hem up & do hem in cowe mylke, & þen take hem out of þe mylke & pyll of þe skynne & ley hem in dyshes ii or iii. Þen take wastell brede & ley hit in þe same mylke, & heet hit & strayne hit, & þen boyll hit; & caste þerto sugur inogh [&] poudere53 gyngur. þen take eggys & seth hem harde, & hew þe whyte small & caste unto þe sewe; þen frye þe 8olkes all hole to þey be browne. Powre þe sewe abowte þe chekens & sett þe 8olkes aboute þe chekens, .v. or vi. Þen take maces & lay about, & serve hem forthe. 47. Vyande Ryall. Take wardouns perys & seth hem tender, & bray hem & temper hem with wyne. Caste þerto flour of ryse other amadoune & drawe yt thorowe a streynour. Caste þerto powder of canell, of cloves, & sugur & saunders oþer safferoun, & lette boyle togeder to hit be standyng; & put þerto pouder gynger [&] macez & serve it forth with clowes stykyde þerin, & annes in confettes both whyet & rede. Put aqua vite þerto & ly8t hit with a strawe, & serve it forth.54 48. Hennys in dubat. 80 Take & roste a henne halfe inowgh, & smy8ght hit in too55 fayre pecese … 49. Cold mylke of Almondes. 756 Take & seth blake sygure & salt in water & skyme hit clene, & let hit kele … 50. Cold creme of Almondes. 9157 Take blanchede almondes smale brayede with water, sumwat thyke, & streyn hem togedre in to a potte58 … salte þerto & lett hit roste a lytell wyll & … thorowe a clene cloth & put hit awey. þen take þe straynede

‘Brewet Sec’: originally made ‘dry’ with verjuice, but this is not the first English recipe to omit that ingredient. 52 || FC 61 & OP 38. 53 ‘o’ over the line with caret. 54 The directions to serve this dish flambé are not found in any other recipe of this title. 55 Probably ‘into’ rather than ‘in two.’ 56 Froyde almondys. 57 Fried creme … 58 Rest of recipe, like the beginning, not as elaborately phrased as Harl. 4016; variants follow, ellipsis indicating portions exactly like CB 91.

BODLEIAN MS E. MUS. 52

72v

59

53

almondes & cast in þe clothe abrode, & þer lete þe water trye out, & put hit awey; & kepe þe creme togedere in þe clothe & hong … 59 51. Creme boll.60 Take creme or mylke & tendre brede & breke into þe mylke or in to þe creme & …61 52. Long ffreturs. 73 Take mylke & make a crude þerof in þe manere of a tendere chese & do awey þe wheye …62 . . 53. Filyttes in Galentyne. 82 Take forther quartur of a swyne & take of þe skyne, & roste hit halfe inogh … 54. Flawuns. 51 & 73 Take mylke & þe whyete & 8olkes of egges & strayn hem with sugur, & melt buttur & caste … 55. Alouues of mottoun. 83 Take a bote of motoun & cute hem ine maner of stekes, þen perslye & onyons smale ischrede …63 56. Blaunche surrye. 84 Take blaunchede almondes & grynde hem, & temper hem with freshe lene broth of beffe or with wyn …64 57. Sauce for a malarde. Take hewede onyons & frye hem in freshe grese, & caste hem into a potte with fresh broth & wyne. & caste þer to poudere of peper & canell & þe droppynges of þe malarde, & lette hem boyll togedere a whyll; þen take yt of fro þe fyre. Þen cast þerto mostarde, gyngur, & salte & lete hit boyll nonise65 &C. 58. Long worttes of flesh. 566 Take beff & marebonys & boyll hem in water, & take worttes & sethe hem in water when … 59. Long worttes of fysh. 567 Take pesen & sethe hem to þey breste, þen tak hem upe & cast hem into þe same water into anoþer68 potte & lete hem kele, þen streyn hem. Þen take onyouns schrede in ii or iii peces, & take hole wortys & boyll hem in

Omit ‘take … cloth’, ‘of tre’; for ‘ale,’ ‘all’: which seems a better reading; ‘rede’ omitted. Cf. 40, above. 61 Honey added, butter omitted. 62 Variant after ‘board’: & preste hit a lytell of brede, þen cutt hit of lengh [SIC] & put hit in to þe panne. 63 Omits marrow and suet, and directions to roll. 64 Mostly simpler wording; for fish, specifies ‘pykes or codlynges or haddokkes’; omits ‘red.’ 65 An odd spelling for ‘once.’ 66 But shorter. 67 But shorter; ‘fysh’ must be an erroneous interpretation of ‘pesson,’ peas. 68 ‘water’ crossed out. 60

54

73r

69

A GATHERING OF MEDIEVAL ENGLISH RECIPES

water, & þen cute hem in ii or iii peces; & þen cast þe onyouns into þe potte with þe drawen pesene & lette hem boyle togedere tyll [þey] be tendere. & þen take oyle & frye hit or fysh69 y8ff þu have no oyle & lette hem boyll togedere tyll þei be inogh, & stere hem well overe by & by70 for byrnynge &C. 60. Beffe istewede. 6 Take rybbes of beffe þe forther quartur & smyght he [SIC] in ii peces & wheysh hem …71 61. Syrrype of mottoun. 7 & 8272 Take þe pouche of þe schepe & caste hit into a potte with boyllyd water, & skyme hit clene, & … 62. Wardons in syrrypes. 7 Take wardouns tendur isode in water & pare hem, & cutte hem in ii or iii peces; þe[n] take a gude quantyte of peper73 [&] of canell & caste þerto, & cast hit in redde wyne & streyne hit, & þen caste þerto gyngur74 & put hit into a erthen potte & let hit boyll. & þe[n] take poudere of gyngur & venegur & caste þerto to to hit be poynette, & safferoun &C. 63. Brawne fonde.75 43 & 83 Take lechede brawne & 8olkes of egges & sum of þe whyet & flour, & streyn hem, & cast þerto a gude quantite of sugur & a lytell safferon & salte. Þen hete a panne with freshe gresse & take þe brawn & wett hit well in þe batter76 & caste hit into þe panne. & when hit is fryede a lytell þen take hit upe & caste þeron þe lycour &C. 64. To make pene. 8377 Take grene pesene & boyll hem, & when þey be broken þen throwe a gude quantite of þe broth …78 65. Malesade. 83 Take & streyn þe whyte & þe 8olkes of egges togedere in a panne & caste butter þerto, & gedur hem togeder with a saucer ynto þe brede of a pewter dysshe. Þen couch ij or iij mossels of brede þeron, & torne þe brede downewarde, & þen take it upe & cast gynger inowgh þeron, & tak þe same egges to a malesen79 &C.

279 has a more sensible ‘fresche broth of sum maner fresche fysshe.’ I haven’t seen this phrase elsewhere. 71 Variants: seasonings here are ‘poudere of peper & cloves canell & maces onyouns ischerde & perslye & sage.’ Adds pepper but omits ‘gryanys of paris, quibibes’ which may indicate that it’s an earlier version; and the style is not as elaborate as Harl. 279. 72 ‘Trype/Tripe de Mutton.’ 73 Harl. 279’s sugar is probably correct. 74 Another probably wrong variant. 75 ‘Drowned’ brawn; cf. ‘Payn Fondue,’ bread fried and ‘drowned’ in a syrup. 76 ‘batter’ repeated. 77 ‘Perre.’ 78 Omits bread thickening; ends, ‘salte and cast þerto & serve it forth.’ 79 Miscopied? 70

BODLEIAN MS E. MUS. 52

73v

80

55

66. Bake mete praty upon.80 Take rawe creme & yolkes of egges all rawe with oute any whyete & menge togedure with þy handes, & make pratye smale cofyns, & caste in a quantite as þu semest beste; & cast on safferon frynge þerupon to colour hit & other gode spices of þe beste to make hit more delycius &C.81 67. Another for leche metys. Take þe why8te of egges & hewe hem smale in a mortere; þen take a lytell fatte broth & grattede brede small, & caste hem togedour with þi hande, & put þerto a lytell clene hony or sugur & pudere of canell & gynger, & lete hem boyll a lyte, & serve it forth. 68. Conynges or hennys in clene [SIC] broth. 80 Take a conynge or a hene & seth hem in freshe broth, & stamp hem & streyn hem with thyne broth & half with whyet wyne, & sette hit on þe fyre. & þen take anoþer connyng or a hen & chope hit & pyke out all þe skyne clene, & cast þerto all þe broth, & when þey be all iboyllede cast þerto poudere of gyngur, veryus, & salt. 69. Conynge in Grave. 80 Take blaunchede almondes & grynde hem & strayne with wyne & with broth of vele …82 70. Oystrysse in Grave. 100 Take blaunchede almondes & grynde hem & streyne hem with fresshe brothe into mylke … 71. Lyde soppys. 1183 Take boyllede mylke & þerto tryede 8olkes of egges; strayn þerto & þen set hit upon … cast þerto gyngur & salt & cute paynemane rownde peces & cast þerto. 72. Bustounes. 52 & 9884 Take flour & þe 8olkes of egges & a lytell of þe whyete & þen take warme barme …85 73. Petrus. 5386 Take a panne of yryne & hete hym brynenyng hote …87 . 74. Cryspes. 93

Open? Some unusual vocabulary here: saffron fringe < Fr. use; ‘praty’ appears to be a form of ‘pretty,’ e.g. MED "prat*(e adj. 3.b. pleasing to look at, well-made, handsome, fine." 82 Omits sugar; for ‘chop,’ an erroneous ‘stop.’ 83 But shorter. 84 ‘Rastons.’ 85 As in CB recipes, but with the proportions of whites and yolks reversed. 86 ‘Potrous.’ 87 Variants: ‘make a holy [i.e., hollow] pytte in þe salte with þe bottome of a treene dysche’; ending: ‘under þe salt, & lefte hit upe all hole & serve it forth.’ 81

56

74r

88

A GATHERING OF MEDIEVAL ENGLISH RECIPES

Take þe why8te of egges & mylke & flour & put hem to gedere, & streyne it so þat it … take yt upe with a skemere & cast sugur upon inowgh & serve it forth. 75. For petye bake mette open.88 Take & seth calffes fette als tender as þu may & pyke aweye þe bonys, & take þe oþer perte & grynde hem small in a morter, & cast þerto fayr broth & hony & a lytell peper gronde with gratede brede, & lett hem boyll togedere. & cast a fewe small dates þerto, or reysouns or fygges gronden, & þen take it up & make pratye pastyes ifylde with þe same & lete hem bake a wyll, & serve hem forthe. 76. For leche lumbarde. Take fayr clene hony iclaryfyede, with a vew89 of almondes iblaunchede. To þem tak pouder of peper, ob90 to þe quantite of a quart, & di91 of saunders, & þe quantite of half a lofe of brede igrattede, & boyll hem wele to þey begyne to cleve to þe pott in þe maner of a lofe; but stere hem well fro brynnyng to þe potte, & yff it be not tendyde it is loste. & when þu hast all donne, tak it upe wyll it ys hote & ley it upon a fayr borde, & cast þerto poudre of gyngur on every syde þat it may tak over all. 77. To make a serrype for perys. Take a potell of ale & a quart of gude mede92; yff þu wylte goo to lytell coste, take quarte of93 water & a quarte of mede. Þen take ii di94 of flour of ryse & put in to þe same lycour & let it boyle togeder þen to þat quantite take ob peper & di of saunders, ob of reysens of corans, and lett all þes boyll togeder to it be cleve to þe per. & yf it cleve to moche, yf þu make of ale cast þerto ale; yf it be water cast þerto water, & þen cut þi pere as þu lyste sumwatte thynne peces of brede, & serve it forth. 78. Pestelles of porke indorte. For to dorrye pestelles of porke indor[t] or in syrrype to þe quantyte of iii pestelles, take swete fatt broth of beffe þe quantyte of a quarte & make þerof a lere95 thorowe a streynour. Þen put þerto thy pestelles into þe broth & make it as where96 sewe. Þen take a quantite of onyons schrede small, þen take venegur & hony to make it somwatt taste of hit; þen take rostede egges & take þe 8olkes schrede small as þe comen97 use, & when þu hast

Another spelling for ‘praty’? Cf. 66, above, and the use of ‘pratye’ below. Few. 90 A half-penny worth. 91 Half (presumbly of the quantity named above for pepper). 92 Blotted and repeated. 93 ‘goode ale’ crossed out. 94 I’m not sure what this is ‘half’ of. 95 ‘Lyour,’ thickening or mixture; it is not clear how putting broth through a strainer would accomplish either. 96 ? "as if it were" doesn’t make very good sense, but I can’t see any other possible meaning here. 97 Common. 89

BODLEIAN MS E. MUS. 52

74v

98

put þe onyons & þe[y] have wele isoode or boyllede cast to þi spices: ob peper, di cloves & maces, di reysouns. Y8f þey be rostede take blode of an98 liver or saunders & cast to, & [when] þey be boyllede take safferon, & þat is þe comon use, & serve it forth. 79. To make grene gyngur. Take gude gyngur well ichose & paryt fayr þe rasouns,99 & kepe þe parynges, & whash þe rasynces in clene water; þen put hem in warme watter iii howres. Þe[n] bett þem tyll þei be nesch. Þen ley he[m] in venegur ii dayes; þen ley hem in why8t wynne oþer ii dayes or iii, & þen take clene hony & set it upon þe fyr to it wex thyke brown, & loke þu stere it well. Þen take it down, & always stere to it be colde. & þen take þe parynges of þe gyngur & make þerof well isarsede100 & caste þat pouder unto þe hony, & loke þat it be well strong as syrrype schulde be. Þen take þe rasynces þat lyen in þe wyne & cast it into þe syrrype & styre it well; þen tak & fyll a potte & þu schallt have gude gyngur. 80. Lampray bake. 52 & 98 Take & make rownde coffynes of fayre past, þen take a lampray & lede hym blode …|ley þe soppes in þe coffyne & þe syrrype above & serve it forth all hote. 81. Charde Quynce. Take quynces & pute hem in a potte & boyll hem, & pare hem, & put hem in a morter & grende hem small. Þen streyne hem & put hem in a holowe basen, & put þerto graynys & canell, & put þerto hony; & þen set upon þe fyre in þe same basene & lett hem boyll wel, & stere it well. & þen take it down & put it in boxys, & þen strewe it with gyngur abowt. 82. For to make a cawdell fere. Take blaunchede almondes igrownde & temper hem upe with wynne, & streyn hem, & do yt in a pott & boyll it. Colour it with safferon. Charge it thyke with flour of ryse or with amadoune. Seson it with sugur. Florysh þe dysch with maces.101 83. Sauce brance for capons isoode. 110102 Take blaunchede almondes & grynde hem small & temper it upe with veryus & poudre of gyngur & messe yt forth.103 84. Ro in brothe. FC 16

? MS in. Roots. 100 [A powder] well sifted. 101 This is an unusual recipe for Cawdel Ferry since it contains no eggs. 102 Ashmole 1439, ‘White sauce.’ 103 So also Ashmole 1439; Austin’s ‘melle’ for ‘messe’ is a typo or a misreading. 99

57

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A GATHERING OF MEDIEVAL ENGLISH RECIPES

75r

104 105 106 107 108 109 110 111

Take a lyre of a104 roo othe of a bore & smy8t it in small gobettes & seth it well halfe in water halfe in wynne …105 85. Bocnade. Take hennys or konnnynges or oþer flesshe & hew it to gobottes, & weshe it, & sethe yt well. Þen take blaunchede almondes igrownde & streynde with þe broth; cast þerto reysons of corans, sugur, poudere of gyngur, herbes stewed in gresse, onyons, & salt, & y8f yt be thynne alye it with flour of rysse oþer with oþer thyng; & colour it with safferon & serve it forth. 86. Rapy. 16 (1) & 95 Take half fygges & half reysons; pyke hem & washe hem in fayre water & scalde hem in wynne …106 do pynys þerto with pouder of peper & with oþer gude pouedre & alye it with flour of ryse. Colour it with saunders, salt yt, & seth it & messe it forth. 87. A lytell bake mettes. Take þe why8te of clene egges small ischrede; grynde hem with fatte brothe of fleshe & put þerto gratede brede & clene hony after þe quantite, & boyll yt togedere to it be somwate standyng. Þen take it upe & make pasteys,107 & bake þem & serve hem forth all hotte. 88. For leche mettes. Take & sethe calffes fete tendur & put awaye þe bones, & oþer dell, grynde hem in a morter & cast þerto a lytell fatte broth & clene hony & let hem boyll togedere with a lytell gratede brede þat it be somwat standyng. & when it is welle boyllede þen tak it upe & make smale lechese & serve it forth with blaunchede almondes mynced. 89. Stoke fysshe in sauce. 100108 Take broth of elys or of pyke or of fresshe broth & streyn it, & hew persyly | … lay sodene stokefishe in freshe water. 90. Grewell forcide. 70109 Take grewell made of beff; when it is inogh þen streyn it into þe pott …110 91. Brende Grewell. 10111 Take lene beffe & seth it inogh, þen tak it upe & pryke it & wheder it bled . . . 92. Payne fondewe. FC 60

Inserted over line with a caret. For ‘powdour fort …,’ ‘poudre of pepper gyngur cannell’ (no mace). Omits currants, cloves, mace, and sugar. Presumably this means ‘little cakes.’ But shorter. But shorter. Omits direction to "seethe" the pork, but refers to the broth it was ‘soden in.’ ‘Drawyn grwel.’

BODLEIAN MS E. MUS. 52

75v

112 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 120 121

59

Take fynne brede & frye hyt in grece or in oyll; þen take yt upe & ley hit in rede wyne & grynde hit with reysonges … take of þe hatt with a sclyse þer iclaryfyede doun, þen do yt unto þe other mater with goode spyces hole, gude pouderes, & salte. So do þat hit be stondyng, & florysh yt with colyaunderes in comfyttes. 93. Composte. FC 103 Take þe cottes112 of perslye, pastronak, of raphens; strype hem & washe hem clene. Þen rapis …113 94. Sauce blaunche for capouns isode. 110114 Take almoundes iblaunchede grynde hem all to dowste & temper hit with weryous & poudre of …115 95. Sauce veyr116 for capouns rostede. 110 Take þe lyvere of þe capouns & roste hem well þen take anyce & greyne of paryse gynger …117 96. Tartelettes in fruter. Take ffyges & grynde hem small; do þerin safferon & poudere, þen close hem118 in foylys of dow8 & fry hem in grece or in oyle, hony iclaryfyede to flamyne119 yt þerwith; ete yt hote. 97. Frutour of pastrenakes. FC 154 Take pastrenakes, skyrwyttes, & applus, & perboyll hem. Make a bakour120 of flowre, eyrene, ale … 98. Frutur of herbes. FC 156 Tak goode herbes & grynde hem & medell hem with flour & water, 8eyste & salte, & frye hem in oyle, & ley þerupon sugour. 99. Frutour of mylke. FC 155 Take cruddes & presse oute þe weye clene, & do þerto some whyete of eyren … 100. Gees in hochpote. FC 33 Take geese & smy8te hem in peces & caste hem in a pote; do þerto halfe wyn & halfe …121 101. Chykenes in caudell. FC 35 Take chykenis & boyll hem in good brothe; þen take 8elkes of eryne rawe & þe brothe …

This must be a miscopying of FC’s ‘rote.’ Omits ‘greke,’ currants. Identical with Recipe 83, above. Again, ‘messe.’ Miswritten ‘neyr’: scribe mistook ‘n’ for ‘u.’ For ‘all to-gedere,’ ‘small.’ Inserted above line with caret. MED: flaumen v. 5. Cook: To baste …; to glaze (pastry). SIC: a correct ‘batour’ appears below. Omits ‘fort.’

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A GATHERING OF MEDIEVAL ENGLISH RECIPES

Confectionary Series 76v - 79r [Note: there are no numbers after titles in this series; all numbers below are thus editorial.] 76v 77r

77v

78r

122 123 124 125 126 127 128 129

1. Pleyne confectes. 2. Penetes. 3. Pecelede plate rede. 4. Whyte Plate pecelede. 5. Playne plate. 6. Fenell cotes in Syruppe. 7. Electuarius de succo Rosazz. 8. Electuarius de succo Rosazz liquidis. 9. A lax called dya gredii. 10. Oxmelle laxativ.122 11. Diaprunus laxativ.123 12. Conserva prunoz.124 13. Conserva Rosozs. 14. Conserva wardones. 15. Conserva Quinces. 16. Chare de Quince.125 Recipe quinces & pare hem & core hem, þen sethe hem faste in whye8te wynne. Þen streyne hem & take ii li of sugour of clene claryfyede, & set yt upon þe fyre & lett yt sethe softlye with easy fyere unto þat he may droppe on your fyngur, & in the kelyng it wexeth styffe & harde lyke water congylede with froste over hous evenges.126 Þen without long taryenge put þerto þe streynede quynces aforeseyde, þen set yt uppon a barels hede or els uppon a holowe place. Þen take a rownde staffe & stere yt unto he dysclouse more why8tte then his boyllynge geveth, & when he begynnethe to wexe thyke & harde, som perte only be sterynge. Þen put unto hym pouder synamome, ginger,127 spycknard, granus paradisy, anes ii oz. Thys ys for principall estates. But when yt ys harde not colde, put yt in bokes128 & fiat & stewe129 yt. 17. Paste Ryall.

Sp. ‘laxatiii.’ Damson plum base. More damsons. Different from culinary recipe 81. Eaves? There is nothing like this in MED or OED. Note the unusual use of simile. Abbreviated. Boxes? Store? MED: "steu(e n. (2) (c) a small room, closet": i.e., store room?

BODLEIAN MS E. MUS. 52

78v 79r

61

Recipe your sugour clene claryfyede & put yt in a clene panne & seth yt softlye unto þe hyeghe aforseyde of your quynces,130 þen set yt from þe fyere uppon a hedles vesell & with a rownde staffe fast stere it131 tyll he be why8te as snowe. Þen put þerto fyne pouder gynger & put yt in bokes, & þen set hym in stewes & fiat. 18. Succus liquorissie.132 19. Sugour claryfyeng.. 20. Lax pro pectore. 21. Sirus Epaticus. 22. For to make aurum inusicus.133 23. For to make Aqua Arden. Take a mesoure134 of wyne þat man clepethe a sexter & 2 oz sulffure, 2 oz alyme, 2 oz oyl, & styll yt or seth yt unto þe therde perte. A mache þat ys wette in þes lycour, oyther ifinerede in þe wyne or water, hit wyl brynne as wele in water as in þe eyre. Ink and hand change here: Henry Rolfe/Roffe seems to use the same ink.

24. Dylenes Tartar sic fit. 25. Dylenes Tartar sic fitz.135 26. For to make sal ar.136 by me Henry Roffe is my name and wethe my pen I wreete the same but if my pene of h137

130

See preceding recipe. ‘stere it’ above line with caret. 132 For ‘lycorys’ candy. 133 Musicus? 134 MS ‘nesoure.’ 135 A much longer recipe. 136 Armonac? 137 End of inscription, whatever ‘h’ might have meant. One paleographer (Ann Rycraft, of the University of York) who saw this suggested H.R. may have simply run out of inspiration as to how to continue his verse. 131

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Bodleian MS Rawlinson D 1222 (SC 15559) This manuscript is thus described in Guillaume D. Macray, Catalogi codicum manuscriptorum Bibliothecæ Bodleianæ. Pars quintæ fasciculus quartus … Ricardi Rawlinson codicum… (Oxford, 1898): Membranaceus partim, partim chartaceus. In 8vo, sæ. xv. ff. 74, quorum quædam vacua. Desunt quædam in principio. "Suum cuique. Tho. Hearne, Jan. 5, 1733. Given me by the rev. Mr. Edw. Lye, vicar of Little Houghton in Northamptonshire." A collection of 278 miscellaneous receipts in cookery, in English; by a hand of the middle of the fifteenth century. Imperfect at the beginning. The first receipt is for "Broweth of Almayne," followed by seven other broths. On a few vacant speaces and leaves (ff. 19, 50b, 72b-74) are added by a slightly later and clumsy hand a few medical receipts and (ff. 73-74) charms for the cramp and the tooth-ache. At f. 19b, the perilous days in each month. At f. 8b, "By me John Reyne, his hand 1624." This description is, however, not entirely accurate. First, there are two more blank sheets after fol. 74, so actually there are 76 folios. Second, the count of 278 recipes ignores the tail end of the recipe which appears at the top of fol. 1r and one added at the end, which is not mentioned in this description; this addition is in a hand close enough to the original to be probably of the same century. In any case, there are, by my count, 281 recipes. And, third, the first title is clearly ‘Browet’— with no h at the end. The manuscript measures 22 cm x 14, ca 8-1/2 x 5-1/2. Titles of recipes, in slightly larger lettering, are centered above each recipe. It was clearly bound in its present imperfect condition when it came into Hearne’s hands—that is, the first folio is numbered in the scribe’s hand as ‘vi,’ so at least five folios are missing. It presents a number of other odd problems. The arrangement of the recipes is an unusual one. This is a manuscript in which most leaves are paper, but some parchment leaves are mixed in in what looks like a pretty indiscriminate order. The recipes come from a number of different sources, and are, in general, divided into specific categories, such as "fish broiled or roasted," "rostede metes," and "gely," with one, two, or three blank pages (sometimes filled in a messier and later hand, usually with ‘medical’ recipes) at the end of most such sections. The largest number of recipes with an identifiable source (over a hundred) come from the collection edited as An Ordinance of Pottage, where it was one of the manuscripts collated. Groups of recipes from this source generally come in exactly the same order as that in which they appear elsewhere, except that some groups have been removed to appear in the appropriately labelled later sections and groups

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of recipes from other sources are inserted regularly. The groups are generally separately numbered in the scribal hand. For example, "Sauces," now beginning on fol. 12, were numbered fols. i and ii, then, after some blank pages, the fish folios, now 16-18, were numbered i, ii, and iii. The first section, which is scribally numbered iv to xii, is, of course, lacking a title, which must have been something like ‘potage dyvers’ (the heading of the first section of MS Harley 279). It probably comprised most of about forty recipes from the beginning of the Ordinance of Pottage collection, since the incomplete recipe with which it starts is number 45 in that collection and none of the preceding 44 are to be found in this manuscript at all. But also, after the section on broiled or roasted fish, there is another unlabelled section which could also be described as miscellaneous pottages. Only a few, found around the middle of the group, come from the source dominant in the first group. The folio numeration, however, suggests that these recipes were intended to continue that first section: what is now fol. 22 is headed ‘xiii,’ picking up the numbering of the first section rather than starting anew. This is a parchment sheet, but that is probably not relevant, since not all the pages in the first section are parchment and the whole collection appears to be the work of one hand. It may be also worth noting that section one ends, at the bottom of a leaf, with a pike recipe, and the fourth (unlabelled) section begins at the top of a new leaf with another pike recipe. It would thus appear that the scribe originally wrote the folios he labelled i xxiii (of which the first five are missing) consecutively, but that he, or whoever put together the book in bound form, separated this long section into two parts, and whether deliberately or inadvertently, inserted two sections separately numbered between the two halves of what was once a single section. Perhaps a fair conjecture is that as the scribe went along, he conceived the idea of a fussier division into types of recipes, and thus lost track of some of the Ordinance of Pottage recipes with which he had started. A few of these recipes missing along the way (not those from the beginning 44) turn up in more specialized sections still later in the collection, even though parallel recipes from other sources often take their places where we would have expected to find them in their usual order. In general, the order of the sections reflects the usual order of the medieval English menu: pottages come first, and fried foods last. ‘Bakemetes’ follow fish and pottages, but many of them were served with almost any course of the meal. The roasts, which follow, are largely of a kind usually served in a second or third course, and ‘lechemetes’ and ‘Gelys,’ which were considered delicacies, come right before the fritters and other ‘Fryed metes.’ Some of the recipes here have no identifiable parallels elsewhere, and a good many have titles unlike any found so far; for these reasons, the hitherto unprinted recipes in this collection are particularly important for the completion of our

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records of medieval English recipes. If any readers can cast light on some of the titles the present editor found unfathomable, she will be most grateful for any suggestions they may have. Readers will note there are also a few unusual words in recipes which I have not always been able to define, and caution is obviously necessary when obvious errors abound: for example, the recipes often call for grinding "unblaunched" almonds when blanching would clearly be preferable. In this transcript, when a recipe has been collated or printed elsewhere the source is stated and no further details are added unless there is a variant of some interest. The next largest group of recipes here (almost a hundred) has no identifiable source collection, but another sizable number of the recipes (ca. 75) is from the collection represented in Austin’s Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery Books, based on B.L. MSS Harley 279 and 4016, collated with Bodleian MSS Ashmole 1439 and Douce 55; the closest parallel here to the present collection is Douce 55, as may sometimes be seen in the numbering sequence. Most of the recipes from the collection represented by Douce and the two Harley manuscripts are also in Bodley MS Ashmole 1439 and B.L. MS Add. 5467 (not one consulted by Austin), but Douce and the Harleian recipes printed by Austin are sufficient to identify the recipes concerned. When recipes are found in both Harl. 279 and Harl. 4016, I have usually given only the latter, which is generally the closer parallel (although not as close as Douce), to save space. There are a few recipes which have their closest parallels in the Noble boke of cokery, and some here and there which represent such earlier collections as The Forme of Cury. In citing such sources, the following references are given: OP = An Ordinance of Pottage; Douce = Douce 55; 279 = Harley 279, as printed by Austin; 4016 = Harley 4016, in Austin; in the latter case, a page number is given instead of a recipe number, since the editor did not number the recipes. Recipes which are obviously versions of the fourteenth-century recipes printed in Curye on Inglysch are designated by abbreviations for the section of that collection: e.g., FC = (IV) "The Forme of Cury," DS = (II) "Diversa Servisa, GK = (V) "Goud Kokery." One or two other manuscripts are occasionally referred to. NBC = Noble boke of cokery, but it usually seemed unecessary to cite recipes from this source, which draws large blocks of recipes from OP, unless it happened to contain the only parallel found. No close connections with such other published manuscripts as B.L. MS Arundel 334 are evident. Recipe numbers have been added editorially. The original folio numbers are given after present ones. 1r (vj) 1. [Browet of Lumbardy] … make hit rede as blode with alkenet. 2. Browet of Almayne. 3. Browet of Spayne. 4. Browet Ros.

End OP 45 OP 46 " 47 " 48

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1v

5. Chykenes in browet. " 49 6. Browet Tuskeyn. " 52 2r (vii) 7. Browet Sarcynes. " 53 8. Browet of kydes. " 54 9. Blanke browet. " 55 10. Stew lumbarde. " 50 2v 11. Stewed colops. " 51 12. Saus Saracenes. " 56 13. Veel in bokenade. " 57 3r (viij) 14. Pynonade. " 58 15. Kydes Stewed. " 59 16. Stewede pertryches. " 60 17. Alosed beef. " 61 3v 18. Carpusselles. Take pork lechede & rostede on a roste yren, & do in a potte & þerto wyne, vyneger, sugur & pouders. Colour hit with alkenet; when hit ys boylede colour yt & serve forthe.1 19. Manselade. Take veel or moton & smyte in gobetes, & sethe hit in good brothe… [+ herbs, wine, onions, powder fort, saffron, yolks; ginger, vinegar, salt].2 20. Slobersaus [SIC]. Take plays. Fle soles of the skynne; chop hem on peces & eke congor, bars, melet & fresche samoun. Splatte hit & chop hit & do al togyder, & frye hit in oyle. Take fygges, & reysens yf þu wil; grynde þem & draw þem r 4 (ix) with wyne. Put to mylke of | almonds & gode powdres, sugur, safroun & salt & do hit in a potte. Sette on þe fyre. When hit boyleþe do þe fysshe þerto; take hit of. Do þerto pouder gynger & vyneger; loke hit be rennynge. Serve forthe.3 21. Plays in cyve. Take plays; smyte þem in to peces & frye þem in oyle … not to douce.4 22. Houndefysshe5 Stewede. Take red splekked houndefysshe; fle of þe skyn. Draw hym, chop hym on peces. Put hym in a pot. Hew þe lyvere smal & do þerto brothe of freshe fysche. Take pouder of peper & oynons mycede; do togeder. Boyl hit up. Sesoun hit up with poder gynger & vergeous; colour hit with safron, galentyne, salt. 1

A pork egurdouce; no parallel located, and I cannot explain the name. FC 18, Mounchelet, which calls for ‘good won’ of herbs in the best manuscripts rather than wine; but A indeed gives ‘wyne.’ 3 < FC 134, Sobre Sawse, but at some distance. 4 FC 115, which ends ‘not to stondyng. 5 Dogfish. 2

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5r (x)

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23. Caudel of muskles. Take muskles clene wasshe & soden; grynde þem. Temper hem up with here owne brothe; drawe þem. Take mylke of almond unblanchede drawne of fysshe brothe & wyne; hew sum of þe muskles smalle, & do þerto whyte of lekes & oynouns, wel sodyn & hewne smal & grounde. Do a litel olef oyl þerto þat have be fryede byfore, & sugur; do togeder in a pot. | Boyle hit. Take poudres, safroun & salt, vyneger & vergeous; sesoun hit up.6 24. Amyn of flesshe. Boyle capons. Par þe flesshe fro þe bones; hew hit & grynde hit. Take gode mylke of almonde drawne with þe selfe brothe; temper up þe flesshe þerwith. Grynde þe bones; draw þem þerto with sum of þe brothe. Colour hit with saffroun. Do to maces, clowes, quibybz & poudres & sugur; alye hit with flour of rys þat hit be standynge, & serue forthe.7 25. Amyn of fysshe. Take haddoc, breme, pyke, tenche, peerche, & do as þu dyd with þat oþere byfore. 26. Furmente. Take whete; pyke hit clene þat non oþer corne be amonge, no cokkel, no sedes. Pyle hit in a morter as longe as any hules wyl ryse; kepe hit moyst with water. Þen take hit up & fan hit tyl þe holes be clene oute þerof wasshe hyt & rubbe hit bytwext þy handes. Change ofte þy water. When no mo hules wil ryse do hit in a large pot: to a potel of whete do fyve galons water, & boyl hit tyl þe water be nere boyled yn. Alway hele hit; stere hit not. Syn sette hit doun upon þe hote herthe.Late it stand al ny8te. | after take hit up & do hit in a potte. Take þerto cowmylk & late boyle togeder, & þe bones of beef & oþere good fleshe. Yf þu have kyndners8 of feel & sewete do þerto. Seþe yt when hit boyleþe, & þat wel. Take 8olkes of egges drawn in a bolle; late hit be stered wel for quaylyng, & take oute alle þe clereste of þe furmente with a ladel & poure hit in þe bolle tyl þu have ynow8 to serve þe pryncypales þerwith, & se þat hit be even chargeaunt. Syn do hit in anoþere potte, alwaye sterynge, & late no more boyle. Yf þu wil, make hit sumdel douce & salt hit & colour hit with safroun. Serve forthe with venesoun, and þylke þat leveþe in þat pot when þu hast take aweye þe best, put to more mylk; boyl hit & serve þerwith oþer pepul. And on fysshe dayes make hit on þe same maner with mylk of almonde, & serve forthe with porpays or sole or baleyn.9

< FC 127, at a distance. < Brewet of Almayne, apparently, but not close to any recipe I have seen, and missing the onions which are a characteristic feature of this dish. 8 Kidneys? 9 Whale; this is the only reference to whale as a meat which I have seen in a medieval English recipe. 7

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27. Gryse in pevere. Take a gryse & roste hit; take white brede & bray hit in a morter with peper, gynger, & canelle; tempre hit with vyneger or eysel. Take white grece & baste þe gryse, & þat falleþe kepe in a vessele. Put it in a pot; boyl hit. Take þe gryse & cutte in morsels; put in þe pot. Cast on pouder. Do ry8te so10 with veel yf þu wil.11 5v 28. Pygge in Sawge for Supers. Scalde a pygge; hewe hym on peces. Boyle hym in water & salt. Take hym up; lay hym colde. Take 8olkes of eyren soden hard & sauge, a grete dele, & perclye & grynde togedere; draw hit þro8 a streynour with vynegre þat hit be sumdel rennynge. Sesen hit up with pouder gynger & salt, & do þe pygge in dysshes. Poure þe sauce above.12 29. Pygge in creme for sopers. Scalde a pygge; hewe hym on large13peces. Boyl hym in water & salt. Take hym up; ley hym colde. Take creme of almondes; alaye hit with wyne & a gret dele vyneger þat hit be sumdel rennynge. Do to pouder of gynger a grete del whit sugur & salt, þat hit be sumdel egerdouce. Lay þe peces in þe creme. Messe hit forth togyder. 30. Gryse in Gole. Take fygges & reysens; braye þem. Take blode of a gryse & amydoun, or flour of rys or brede, & pouder of gynger & canel, & tempre hit with mylke of almonde, & syn take hony or sugur and stere hit wel, & loke hit be standynge. Take þe gryse rostede & cut on peces; put in dysshes & do on the Gole with sugur. Serve forthe.14 r 6 (xi) 31. Egredouce. Take almond mylk drawne with wyne & a pertye of vyneger. Take reysens tryede & cast in sugur or honye; yf þu wyl colour hit þu maye.15 32. Anoþer Egredouce. Take reysons & grynde þem with swete wyne. Myce dates; put þerto, & coraunce. Sesoun hit up with vyneger, pouder of gynger & of canel, yf þu wil with a colour of safroun. Take fresshe brawne soden & cutte in þyn leches no more than þy fynger. Sette þe egredouce to þe fyre; loke hit be douce of whyte sugur & a perty egre. When16 hit ys at þe boylynge take 10

‘so' added over line. ‘Gryse' < Old Norse griss, ‘young pig'; Pork in Peverade, but there is no close parallel. 12 < FC 31, at some distance. 13 Second ‘on' and ‘large' inserted over line. 14 Not a jelly; possibly < Fr en goulée. Scully, VT p. 134, states, "from goules, ‘red,' and by extension, ‘embellished, decorated'"; the only use in the Fr. collections is a rice dish with saffron, which one manuscript of the VT says to use enough of to make the dish red. However, this dish contains no saffron nor anything else that would make it red, and the sauce is not notably decorative. 15 < DS 51, at some distance. 16 ‘he' crossed out. 11

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hit fro þe fyre & put þe brawne þeryn, or couche þe brawne in dysshes & poure þe syryp aboven. For fysshe or flesshe. 33. Pesteles of pork in cyryp. Sethe a pestel of pork til hit be ynouw8, syn pare of þe skyn. Lay hit on a roste yren; broyle hit wel. Loke hit cleve no8t to þe yrene. Have a cyryp of almonde mylk drawne with swete brothe & wyne; put þerto oynons fryede, reysouns of corance, powder of peper & of canel. Boyl hit. Sesoun hit up with powder gynger, vyneger & salt; colour hit with safroun. Lay þe pestel hote in a chargeour; put on þe cyryp. 6v 34. Lange de boef flory. Boyl þe tonge of boef; make hit clene. Kut hit in longe leches. Do hit on a smale broche; larde hit. Pryk hit fulle of clowes. Roste hit; endore hit. Make a cyryp of wyne & poudres & maces, & almonde mylk a litel, & salt. Sesoun hit up with pouder gynger & a litel vergeus; colour hit with tournesole. Lay þe leches hote in dysshes; poure þe cyryp aboven.17 35. Chykenes in flory. Scalde chykyns; draw þem & wasshe þem. Thyes & whenges rayse hole; take þem of. Rayse þe body; do on a smale broche togyder, not to ny8e togeder. Larde hit þrou8 with salt larde; pryk hit fulle of clowes & pynes18 of almondes. Roste hit; endore hit with 8olkes of eyren. Make þy cyryp as þu dost to that oþer; serve forthe on þe same maner. 36. Brawn in peverade. Blanch almonds; grynde þem. Draw up with swete wyne into a pot; sesoun hit with pouder gynger & whyte sugur & salt. Leche brawne ;19 sette þe peverad on þe fyre. Colour hit with safroun & do þerto as þu dyd with egredouce.20 r 7 (xii) 37. Pyke in wortes. Splat a pyke; perboyle hym in swete brothe of fresshe fysshe. Take hit up; do away þe skyn. Pyke oute þe bones; kepe þe peces hole. Yf þu wyl þu maye frye hem. Grynde almondes; draw up with þe forseyde brothe. Put þe mylke in a pot. Take fayre perclye & oþer gode herbes & oynons; perboyle þe herbes & presse out þe water. Hew þem smale; do to þe mylke. Frye reysens a lytel & do togyder & boyle hyt, & do þerto sugur & þe refete of þe pyk hewne smale. When hit ys boyled ynow8 put in þe pyke þerto & dresse forthe as wortes, þe pyke lyande þereyn. Make a dragge of pared gynger mycede smale & anneys in confyt & blanche pouder; strew on. 17 >DS 43, plus an elaborate ‘cyryp.' Turnesole is probably meant to dye the syrup blue, although there was also a red turnesole dye. ‘Flory' is a form of a word meaning ‘garnished, decorated.’ 18 Presumably this means ‘pins, slivers,' not pine nuts. 19 ‘leche brawne' repeated. 20 ‘Peverade means ‘pepper sauce,' but no pepper is mentioned here.

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38. Pyke in lodmer sauce. Splatte pykes; chop þem on peces. Do þem in a potte & water, rede wyne, & þe refete of mo pykes hewne smale: yf þu have hem, do þerto. Sette on þe fyre; when hit ys boylede ynow8 sesoun hit up with pouder gynger, vergeus & salt. Kut white brede in smale soppes & do in dysshes, & dresse þe sew above.21 39. Pyke in browes. Draw pykes & scoche hem ouerthwart þe bakkes þat þe bon be asounders; v do þem ina pan & | þe brothe of fresshe fysshe þerto, oþer eles to amende 7 þe brothe, & þe refet of mo pykes, if þu have þem, hewen smal; hole cloves, mace, dates mycede & reysens of coraunce. Salt hit & boyle hit up. When hit ys boylede do away þe eles; sesoun hit up with powder lumbarde, pouder gynger, safroun, vergeus & sugur. Cut brede as brewes;22 tost hit on a roste yren. Lay hit on a chargeour & laye þe pyke above; poure on þe sew & serve forthe. 40. Pyke in ballobrothe. Splatte pykes; chop þem on peces. Do þem in a potte; hew þe refete; do23 þerto, & perclye broke bytwext þy handes, & eles choppede. & stokfysshe scaldede & pykede clene & choppede on peces, & a quantite of water, & to so moche of rede wyne; hole clowes, mace, oynons cut grete. Stew hit togeder with poder of pepir. When hit is nere ynow8 seson hit up with newe ale & barme, & powder of gynger, mustart & salt. Colour hit with safroun; serve forth. ff. 8-11 Blank or with irrelevant scrawls. 12r (i) Sawce. 41. Chaudoun [for] Swan or Wilde Goos. OP 116 42. Oylepevere24 for rostede boef. Take brown brede cut hit in schyveres; toste hit tyl hit be sumdel brown. Tempere hit in vyneger & do hit in a morter, & powder of canel, a grete dele, & powder of peper & garlec, & but a litel of the brede; & grynde hit wel togeder. Draw hit þrou8 a streynour þe thykenes of mustart, & salt hit.25 43. Subhonours. Take white brede gratede & wyne or ale, & powder of pepper; do hit in a litel vesselle. Sette on þe fyre. Stere hit; when hit ys at boylynge take hit

21 Oxford CCC MS F291's ‘Pyke in Latymor Sauce' is a much more elaborate version of this dish, which does not seem to occur elsewhere; it is presumably named for an individual or family named Latimer. 22 ‘Brewis' = sops; this gives the dish its name. 23 ‘do' repeated. 24 Garlic Pepper Sauce. 25 || 4016, p. 77, but distant.

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of. Loke hit have not to mekel of þe brede. Do to powder of gynger, vyneger, & garlek þat be smale ygrounde. Salt hit; colour hit with safroun.26 v 12 44. Galentyne colde. Take the parynge of crustes of whit brede & soke þem a litel in colde water, þen wrynge þem a litel bytwexte þy handes þat no water be lafte þeryn. Þen soke þem in vyneger tyl þey be tender, & drawe þem þrou8 a streynour. Put to powder of peper, a grete dele of canel, & galyngal yf þu have hit, saundres & safroun. Salt hit. Loke hit be betwene þe browne and þe 8olow. Draw hit a8eyn þat hit be þe þyknesse of mustart, or more thyn. 45. Welde pepir for rost Veel. OP 117 46. Sauce madam. OP 114 13r (ii) 47. Sawce Sylico. OP A.1 48. Sauce pykenard for kyde. Take yolkes of eyroun sodene hard. Grynd þem; draw þem with vyneger in þe þykenes of sauce gynger. Sesoun hit up with pouder gynger & salt.27 49. Sauce camelyn for quayles & oþer wilde fowles. OP 115 13v 50. Sauce verd. OP A.2 51. Sauce gynger. OP A.3 52. Sorrell Sauce. Grynde fayre sorrell & draw hit þrou8 a streynour; cast þerto salt & serve forthe.28 53. Lumbardes mustart. FC 150 Take mustart sede; wassh hyt, grynde hit, sarce hit … 54. Sauce Noer for capouns rosted. FC 141 Take þe lyver of þe capoun roste hyt welle. Take anneys & parede gynger & canel … 55. Sauce blanche for sode capouns. FC 140 Take blanched almondes; grynd þem, tempere þem up with vergeus & poder gynger. Serve forthe. ff. 14-15 Blank. 16r (i) Divers fysshes boyled. 56. Pyke boiled. Douce 101, 4016 101 57. Samoun boyled. Douce 102, 4016 102 16v 58. Trow8te boylede. OP 169

26 A ‘Gauncele,' yellow garlic sauce; no close parallel has been found, and none with a title anything like this. 27 I know of no parallel to this sauce, nor can I explain the title ‘pykenard.'. 28 Douce no. 97, 4016 p. 77.

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59. Crabbe or Lopster boylede. OP 170 60. Perche boyled. Douce 135, 4016 102 Draw þe perche in þe throte sethe water & salt… vyneger or verde sauce. 61. Floundres boylede. Douce 136, 4016 102 Draw floundres in þe syde of þe hede & scocthe hym … no sawce but salt. 17r (ij) 62. Schrympys boyled. Douce 137, 4016 103 Sethe þem in water & a litel salt … 63. Breme boyled. 4016 103 Scale a roche or a breme draw hym in þe syde … 64. Breme rosted in sauce. OP 171 65. Plays boyled or ffryed. Douce 140, 4016 103 Draw þe plays on þe syde of the hede … þe sauce is mustart & ale & salt. Or ellys kut hys fynnes & frye hym in oyl. 66. Sole rosted, boyled, or fryed. Douce 141, 4016 103 v 17 Take away þe hede of þe sole; draw hym … | wyne & poder of gynger & vergeus … dyshe. Or ellis scale hym & prik hym with a knyf & frye hym in oyle. 67. Gornard rosted or boyled. Draw þe gurnard in the29 bely … colde. Or elles take hym rawe & slytte …30 68. Menuse boyled. Douce 148, 4016 104 Pyke menuse or lochys fayr; make sauce of water, salt persly & a good quantite of ale … verd sauce… 18r (iij) 69. Barbelle boyled. Douce 143, 4016 104 Cutte þe barbelle rond as a ronde pyke & drawe hym at þe nape … þe sauce ys verd sauce. Serve hym hote. 70. Haddoc boyled. Douce 144, 4016 104 Draw haddok or codlynge in the belye; boyle hym in water & salte, and þe sawce ys garlek or verd sauce. 71. Ryght boyled. Douce 145, 4016 103 31 Take ryght & draw hit in þe belye … no salt. Pyle hym & sawce hym in ale. Serve … verd sawce or mustart with þe lyver; þerfor kepe þe lyver & seþe hit withal. 72. Turbut boyle. Douce 146, 4016 105 Draw þe turbut as a plays, þen chyne hym … sauce ys verd sauce. 73. Melet boyled or fryed. Douce 147, 4016 104 29 30 31

‘bl' crossed out. Douce 142, 4016 103 & 104: two recipes. Ray.

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Scale þe melet; draw hym in þe belye. Sethe hym in water & salt. When hit boyleþe cast þe melet yn; lete boyle serve forthe hot or colde. Verdsauce.32 v 18 74. Sturgeon boyled. OP 175 75. Pyk in Galentyne. Take brown brede & stepe hit in a quarte vyneger & in a pynt of wyne … carye hym whedyr þu wil have hym. Yf þu wil put in þe galentyne oynons myced & fryede & sawndres.33 ff. 19-21 Blank or with scribbles.34 22r (xiij) 76. Pyke in pykel.35 Draw pykes; scale hem clene with þe egge of a knyf. Wasshe þem, drye þem with a clothe. Laye þem on a roste yren on a fayre charcol fyre; rost þem. Take þe refete of þe pyke & of mo pykes; boyl hit. Take hit of. Hew hit smal; do hit in a pot of erthe, & þerto clowes & mace, flouur36of canel yf þu have hit, dates mycede, resouns of coraunce. Boyle hit up togeder with þe fatte of þe grave37 & wyne & a litel sugur. Yf þu wil, draw pouder of canel & pouder of peper with þe wyne; do þerto. When hyt ys boylede sesoun hit up with pouder gynger & vergeus & a lytel mustart smal ygrounde, & draw þrou8 a streynour. Laye þe pyke on a chargeour; powre þe syryp aboven. 77. Pyke in brase. Dyght pykes in þe same maner as þu dyd þe other. Take rede wyne, clowes & mace; boyl hit togider. Put to a lytel pouder of peper & mekel of canel & a litel sugur. When hit is boyled sesoun hit up with pouder of gynger, vyneger & salt. Loke hit have a colour of saundres; loke hit be sumwhat þyk of poudres. Lay þe pyk on a chargeour; poure þe syryp aboven; serve forthe. 22v 78. Tenche and breme in brase. Splatte tenches by þe bak; do awaye þe draw8t, make þem clene; drye þem with a clothe. Ley þem on a rost yren; take powder of canel, a grete dele; draw hit yf þu wyl þrou8 a streynour with rede wyne. Put to pouder of gynger, clowes, mace, sugur & saundres, þat hit be chargeaunt of spyces powdres. Set on þe fyre; when hit ys nere at boylynge laye þe tenches in dysshes, þe boon syde upwardes. Poure þe brase38aboven. Scale þe breme 32

Douce 147; || 4016 104. Douce 151, 4016 p. 101 (2), except final variant. 34 Numbering of following sequence suggests it originally followed fol. 7v and got moved because it starts with a group of fish dishes; but it is by no means all fish. 35 "Pickle" in Middle English recipes often seems to mean a rich sauce seasoned with mustard and wine, bearing no relation to what we call a ‘pickle' today; cf. 4016 "Pikkyll pour le Mallard," p. 77, and LCC 72 (p. 31). 36 uu? 37 "Grave" here seems to have the meaning of ‘drippings,' not the usual simple sauce. 38 Braising sauce. 33

BODLEIAN MS RAWLINSON D 1222

73

in fresshe water; draw hym & do on þe same maner, or ellis sethe þem in water & salt & pyle of þe skyn. Lay hym in a dysshe ysplatede, & hew oynouns & persly. Cast to poder gynger, þan cast al þat in vyneger & cast al on þe tenche, & serve forthe colde. 79. Pyke reverst. Splat pykes; chop þem on peces. Perboyle þem; take þem up, pyk oute þe bones. Frye þem. Take oute þe refete & of mo pykes yf þu have; boyle hit in a lytel grave. Take hit up; hew hit smale. Do hit in a pot of erthe & þerto gode powdres & wyne & fat of grave. Boyl hit up; sesoun hit up with pouder gynger, vergeus, safroun & salt & a lytel sugur yf þu wil. Do þe pykes hote39 fryede in dysshes; poure þe syryp hote aboven. Yf þu wil þu maye scale þe breme & rost hym, & do on þe same manere. 80. Pyke in Cyryp. Splat pykes & do as þu dyd with þat oþere. Grynde almondes; draw þem with wyne. Fry oynons smal mycede; put to clowes, mace & good safron & salt. Poure as þu did byfore. r 23 81. Brawn Doucet. (xiiij) Take swete brothe & veel & put þerto good powdres, sugur & safroun. Have brawne byfore dycyde smale. Whan 8owre sew boyleþe cast þe brawne þeryn. Serve forth.40 82. Stekes of Veneson with a cyrop. Take veneson; cut hit in þyn leches. Roste hit on a rost yren or frye hit. Baste hit wel in powder of gynger & vyneger or wyne. Lay þem a8eyne on þe roste yren; late rost tyl hit be drye. Dresse hem forthe in a dysshe, & have a cyrop of pouder gynger & vergeus, & powre aboven. 83. Chykyns in mose for soperys. Rost chykyns ynow8. Make a mylk of blanchede almondes drawn with fayre water; put to hole clowes, mace, sugur, & draw canel, a grete dele, þro8 a streynour with a good porcyon of whyte wyne. Do togyder. Set on þe fyre; when hit boyleþe sesoun hit up with a good porcyoun of vergeus & pouder of gynger & salt. Take þe lymmes of þe chykyns; do way þe skyn, & take þe brawne of þe chykyns & chop þe bodye. Do way þe skyn. Couche hit in dysshes togyder, & hafde 8olkes of eyren amonge, & poure þe cyryp aboven; serve forthe. 23v 84. Rosted lamperye. Scald þe lampreye; draw hym, wasshe hym in his owne blode. Baste hym. Put hym on a broche; rost hym. Have a chargeour under to kepe þe droppynges þeryn. Take wyne & powder of canel to bast hym withall. Make a galentyne of wyne & oynons perboylede hole, vyneger & pouder of canel, 39

‘hote' repeated. Perhaps ‘& veel' ought to read ‘of veel.'—The title implies that enough sugar is used to make this ‘brawn' sweet.

40

74

A GATHERING OF MEDIEVAL ENGLISH RECIPES

pouder of gynger; alye hit with saus gynger or with41 brede a lytel þat hit be clere, & safroun & salt. Laye þe lamprey on a chargeour. Boyl þe galentyne; poure hit aboven. Serve forthe. 85. Plays in cyryp. Draw þe plays; chop of þe hedes & þe fynnes. Wasshe þem & drye þem with a clothe. Lay smal 8erdes42on a rost yren þat þe fysshe touche not þe yren; laye þe plays þeron, roste hym upon boþe sydes. Blanche almondes, draw þem with þe brothe of fresshe fysshe & wyne. Put to powdres & salt; boyl hit, sesoun hit up with pouder of gynger, vergeus & a litel sugur. Laye þe plays hote in dysshes; poure þe cyryp above. 86. Dorre in Servyse. Draw þe dorre43at þe gyle þat hit be clene. Take þe lyvere or þe lyver of haddoc or codlynge; hew hit smal, & perclye withalle & gratede brede & 24r (xv) good | powdres, salt & safroun. Make a good farsure; do yn at þe gyle. Pryke hit byfore þat þe farsure go not oute. Lay hym on a rost yren; rost hym up sokynglye & longe. Take trencheres of brede, yf hit be nede, aboute þe bodye for brekynge oute of þe farsure. Take sum of hym soden & draw þrou8 a streynour44 with wine & þe fatte of the brothe þat þe lyver was sodyn yn & þerto a grete dele of pouder of canel. Boyl hit up; sesoun hit with pouder of gynger & vergeus þat hit be wel eger. Salt hit & lay þe dorre on a chargeour, & poure þe sauce above. Yf þu wil, chop hym on peces when he ys rostede & do in þe same manere, & serve forthe. 87. Melet in servyse & bars.45 Take melet; scale hit, draw hit, & wasshe hit, drye hym up with a clothe. Take þe þe mawe & a lytel fat withyn & boyl hit in grave46of fresshe fysshe. Take hit up; hew hit smale. Do hit in a pot & pouder with alle, & of þe grave þat hit was soden in & wyne, & boyle hit up.47 Sesoun hit up with sauce gynger, safroun & salt. Take þe melet rosted byfore; do hym in a chargeour. Poure þe sauce above & þe bars on þe same maner; serve forþe. 24v 88. Macrel in servyse. Draw þe macrel; wasshe hym. Roste hym. Make a cyryp of powder gynger & wyne & vyneger & pouder of canel moste. Boyle hit up; lay þe macrel in dysshes. Powre þe sewe aboven. 89. Lamprons in galentyne.

41 42 43 44 45 46 47

‘a' crossed out. Sticks. Dory, or John Dory, a European fish. ‘wt' crossed out. Mullet and bass. Another odd use of ‘grave': here it apparently means fish broth. ‘sau' crossed out.

BODLEIAN MS RAWLINSON D 1222

75

Scalde lamprons; boyl þem in swete brothe. Broyl þem on a roste yren. Grynd reysens. Draw þem with rede wyne & þe best of þe brothe þat þe lamprons were soden yn, & put to powder of canel, reysons of corans. Boyl hit up. Sesoun hit with pouder ginger, vyneger & salt. Lay þe lamprons hote in dysshes; powre þe galentyne above. 90. Congur in servyse. Take congour; scalde hym, shave hym clene, draw hym clene. Late þe bely be hole. Wasshe hym; broche hym alonge after þe bone. Pryk þe body with pynes of almonde & clowes; roste hym & bast hym with powder of canel & wyne. Kepe þe droppynge; baste it þerwith a8eyn tyl hit be rostede ynow8. Grynde almondes; draw hem up with þe brothe of fresshe fysshe & wyne. Put in a potte & pouder of peper, dates mycede, & sugur. Boile 25r (xvj) hit up. Sesoun hit with pouder gynger, vyneger & salt, | that hit be sumdel egerdouce. Smyte þe congur on peces of what lengthe þat þu wil; laye hit on a chargeour. Poure þe syryp aboven. Loke hit be coloured with alkenet. Make a dragge of pared gynger myced & anneys in confyt & pouder douce; strew on. 91. 48Pyke in sauce. OP 62 v 25 92. Turbot rost in sauce. " 63 93. Samon in sauce. " 64 94. Mortraws eweas. Take brawn of capons soden tender, or of fesantes, hewne & grounde smale & tempryde with almonde mylke þat is drawne with osee.49 Sesoun hit up with good powdurs, salt & sugur. Yf þu wil þu maye alye hit with payndemayn.50 95. Blank desorrye. OP 68 26r (xvij) 96. Blankmanger. " 69 26v 97. Blank doset. " 70 98. Blank desyre. " 72 99. Sypres. " 74 27r 100. Creme boyle. " 76 (xviij) 101. Lyedemyk [SIC]. " 77 102. Mortrews of Fysshe. " 78 27v 103. Blanche mortrews of Fysshe. " 80 104. Blanche mortraws of Flesshe. " 81

48

‘Eles in remde,' crossed out. A sweet Alsatian wine, more usually spelled ‘osey’ from vin d’Aussay. OP 81, ‘Blanch mortruys of flesch,’ elaborated. I cannot explain the title, but it may have something to do with the wine used in drawing up the almond milk.

49

50

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A GATHERING OF MEDIEVAL ENGLISH RECIPES

105. Mortraws of flesshe. " 7951 Take brawn of capouns & pork sodyn tender . . 28r (xix) 106. Payn Fondew. " 82 107. Caudel Fery. " 84 28v 108. Charlet. " 85 109. Perys in confit. " 86 29r (xx) 110. Perys in syryp. " 88 111. Perys in compost. " 87 v 29 112. Colde browet for rabetes. " 96 113. Viand Riall. " 98 30r (xxj) 114. Mamene Ryall. " 99 30v 115. Mamene bastart.52 Take wyne, clowes, maces, pynes, dates cut grette, corance; do togider in a pot, & hony claryfyde. Boyl hit; do to pouder of peper, pouder of canel a grete dele, saundres & safroun. Aly hit with flour of rys or with amadoun. Put to53 brawne of capons tesede smal & powder of gynger & serve forthe. 116. Rape Ryall. OP A.5 117. Rape bastart.54 Scalde fygges in ale or in wyne. Take þem up; hew þem. Do þem in a morter, & reysens of corance withalle. Grynde þem; tempere þem with þe self wyne þat þu boyled hem yn byfore. Scalde brede; put to. Draw hit up 31r togider þrou8 a streynour þat hit be chargeaunt. | Put to pouder of peper & (xxij) pouder of canel, safroun a litel, & creme of almonde; if þu wil hony claryfyde. Boyl hit up. Messe hit forthe; loke hit be stondynge. 118. Sew godryche.55 Grynde reysens; drawe þem with swete wyne. Put to pouder gynger, powder of canel, powder lumbard, & sugur claryfyde. Do hit in a potte & creme of amondes. Boyl hit up togyder. Stere hit welle when hit bygynneþe to boyle. Take of; dresse hit forthe as flat potage. Plante hit with gylt clowes; serve forþ.

51

Variant not noted in OP. It is not clear why this ‘mawmene’ is ‘bastard’: the recipes so entitled in Austin’s collection (pp. 22 and 94) are similar to this but omit the capon meat, which is no doubt why they are ‘bastard’ recipes. 53 ‘bl’ crossed out. 54 Again, there is no evident reason why this recipe is ‘bastard’; it is almost identical to several ‘Rapee’ recipes found elsewhere. 55 This appers to be another ‘Rapee’ recipe; I cannot explain the title. 52

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119. Viand Cypres.56 Take reysens grounde & drawn with swete wyne, dates, corance, pynes, sugur claryfyde or hony claryfid. Boile hit up; alye hit with creme of almondes or with flour of rys & poudres. Loke þat hit be doucet. Messe hit forthe as flatte potage. 120. A colde sewe violet or sangweyn. Take creme of almondes; alaye hit wel with swete wyne. Do þerto whyte sugur brusede, a gret dele; travayle hit wel57 with a saucer in a bolle tyl hit v be as softe as þu wil have hit. | Dresse hit forthe in manere of a caudel 31 ferrye. Florysshe hit with anneys in confit rede, & yf þu wil þu maye chaunge þy colour of þe sewe. Take bluw turnesole; wasshe hit & wrynge hit wel in þe wyne þat þu alayest with þy creme, & yf þu wil þu maye take rede turnesole & wasshe hit & wryng hit in þe same manere & þu shalt make sangweyn. & þu maye strenthe hit wel with powder of gynger. Þu maye dresse þe whyte & þat togeder in a dysshe in manere of a stondynge sewe, florysshyde with anneys in confyt þe whyte with þe rede anneys & þe rede upon þe white. And yf þu wille þu maye make þerof a colde bakemete dressyde on þe same maner in coffyns baken byfore. Þu maye where þu wilt deperte hit in colde sewe or in colde bakemete with al maner sew þat ys made of fruyte. Þu maye take streberyes & hortes58 & cheryes; take oute þe stones & strew þem in coffyns & dresse þy sewe above. Serve forth. Þat ys gode sopere servyse. Þu maye put to canelle & saundres & oþer powdres to make hit brown. 32r 121. Creme of almonde OP 103 (xxiij) 122. Stewet pertryches. Douce 28, 4016 78 Take my8tye brothe of boef or of motoun; drawe hit þrou8 a streynour … 32v 123. Brawne in peverade. Douce 47, 4016 71 124. Anoþer brawne in peverade. Douce 56, 4016 7159 r 33 125. Trype de motoun. Douce 4, 4016 82 (xxiiij) 126. Prymeroll at Pasch. OP 129 33v 127. Jussell. Draw egges þrou8 a strynour; put þerto safroun & salt. Meddle hit togeder þat hit come to a þyk batour. Take brothe of boef & of capouns & of oþer goode flesshe; set on þe fyre. Take leves of sawge & of perclye & of rosemaryne; breke þem bytwyxte þy handes & cast in þe brothe. Colour hit with safroun; salt hit. When hit ys boylede cast yn þe batur & stere hit 56 A generic name for an unusually sweet dish, but this one does not seem very different from the preceding ‘Rapee’ dishes. 57 ‘in a’ crossed out. 58 Hurtleberries? 59 Where it is mistitled ‘Browne in egurdouce’; the recipe contains pepper, but no sweet ingredients.

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eselye & harde by þe botum. When þe crudde gedreye, meve hit eselye aboute with a scymmere for suttynge to þe botum, & late hit boyl tyl hit be harde. Save hit al hole, as þu maye serve forth iii leches or iiii in a dysshe with þe brothe. Yf þu wille forse hit, make þy forseour of creme of cowmylk & pouder of peper, of gynger, & of canel; when hit boyleþe aly hit with 8olkes of egges, & take up þy jussell as drye as þu maye by þe sydes of þe pot with þe egge of a saucer, everye leche by hitself & lay hit in dysshes. Powre þe forseour aboven. Have a dragge of clowes & mace & powder of gynger & whit sugur; strew above. Þu may eke take þe same forceour as þu takest for charlet. 34r 128. Stewed boef. Douce 3, 279 PD 6 (xxv) 129. Froyt let dalmonde. Douce 11, 4016 91. 34v 130. Blanne ferrey [SIC].60 Douce 18, 4016 84 131. Quystes stewed OP 105 35r 132. Smale bryddes stewede. Douce 29, 279 PD 19 (xxvj) 133. Gruel enforced. " 32, 279 PD 7 v 61 35 134. Braykyd Growel. " 33, 279 PD 24 135. Balow brothe. " 34, 279 PD 25 136. Coleys. " 35, 279 PD 26 36r 137. Vensoun in brothe. " 38, 279 PD 22 (xxvij) 138. Nombles of veneson. " 39, 279 PD 23 139. Boykrys.62 " 42, 279 PD 15 36v 140. Leet lardes. " 44, 4016 92 141. Sowpes en dorre. " 51, 4016 90 r 37 142. Sowpes Cambrelayn. " 52, 4016 90 (xxviij) 143. Chare de Wardoun. " 53, 4016 88 144. Seyd Soppys.63 " 64, 279 PD 29 37v 145. Henne in dubbat. " 69, 279 PD 61 146. Bukenade " 77, 4016 85, 2 147. Musklys in brothe. " 78, 4016 90 148. Sturgeoun in brothe. " 80, 4016 104 38r 149. Gerbages. " 83, 4016 72 (xxix) 150. Hen in brothe. " 89, 4016 81 151. Tayllowrys.64 " 104, 4016 94

60

Douce Blandesorre, 4016 Blaunde sorre. Douce and 279, Drawyn. 62 Douce ‘Bosoun’, 279 ‘Bowres.’ For the title of this dish, see the glossary of Curye on Inglysch sub ‘Borewys’ and ‘Bruce.’ The spelling with medial ‘yk’ is clearly a misreading of a spelling with medial ‘w.’ 63 Douce ‘Oyle soppes,’ 279 ‘Lyode Soppes’—the correct title. 64 Douce ‘Tayllouns,’ 4016 ‘Taylours.’ 61

BODLEIAN MS RAWLINSON D 1222

79

38v

152. Bryneux65 " 105, 279 PD 49 153. Powdred lamperye. " 130, 4016 99 39r 154. Caudel of Almonde. " 159, 4016 96 (xxx) 155. Chawt leet dalmonde. " 160, 4016 96 156. Fyggee. " 192, 4016 94 39v 157. Juyschell of Fysche. " 166, 4016 95 158. Trype of Turbut or Codlynge. " 170, 4016 106 40r 159. Cabochys. " 173, 4016 69 (xxxi) 160. Lore.66 " 179, 279 PD 58 161. Cawdelle. " 183, 4016 96 40v 162. Rosee DC 36 163. Appulmose. Sethe apples, & frote þem þrou8 an hereseve, & do in a pot; & in flesshe tyme cast þerto gode freshhe [broth] of boef & fayre grece, & on fysshe dayes almonde mylk & oyle dolyfe & sugur. Colour hit with safroun; serve forthe.67 164. Espine DC 35 165. Superpusoun. Boyle grate reysens & fygges in wyne or ale; grynde þem & brede with þem. Cast to pepir & canel; colour hit with saundres. Do pynes amonge, cut dates on lengthe. Take reysens of corance to, & take floundres. Cut þem & floure þem & fry þem; dresse þem in dysshes, & þe sauce aboven.68 41r 166. Russyntayles. (xxxij) Take almondes; grynde þem. Tempere þem with wyne or ale. Myce fygges smale & reysens, dates mycede & fayre white brede mycede smal as þe date; do þerto. Colour hit with safroun; lete hit be stondynge. Cut blanched almondes on lengthe; fry þem in oyle. Mak þerof a dragge with pouder of gynger & sugur, & do þerupon.69

65

Douce ‘Brewes,’ 279 ‘Bryndons, but also 4016 (91) ‘Prenade,' Add.5467 (105) ‘Brineux,’ OP (132) ‘Brineex.’ The original title is probably Add. 5467’s Brineux; for the case for deriving this title from an Anglo-Norman word for blackberries, see the glossary of Curye on Inglysch sub ‘brineus’ and ‘brynewes.’ 66 Douce ‘Lorre, 279 ‘Let lory.’ The Rawlinson recipe ends: …crudde; yf þu wyl enforce hit as charlet & serve forthe. 67 < DS 17. 68 This looks like an ‘egredouce’ recipe without the sour element; perhaps the title is a corruption of one of the spellings of that word, incorporating a misspelled ‘pesson’ (fish); but no other fish ‘egredouce’ recipe seems to resemble this one. 69 This starts off like Douce 104, ‘Tayllouns,’ which is parallel to 279, PD 48, & 4016, p. 94, ‘Taylours,’ which probably explains the name—in part, anyway. However, the recipe diverges from these parallels in several ways: none ends with a dragee, for example.

80

41v

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A GATHERING OF MEDIEVAL ENGLISH RECIPES

167. Alowys in Cyrype. Cutte boef as þynne as þu mayst. Take harde 8olkes of eyren, marye, & peper, safroun & sugur, or ellis honye, & a litel salt; menge þiis70togeder. Put hit in þe leches of boef. Rolle þem togeder; put þem on a spyt. Roste þem browne. Þen take wyn & canel, pouder of clowys, reysens; boyle togyder. Þen ley þy boef rosted in dysshes with poder of gynger; cast þe syrop above. Serve forthe. 168. 71 Salt Ele in browet. Flaye þe ele & cut hym in gobetes. Sethe hym, þen take smale oynouns; pyle þem. Sethe þem with þe ele. Grynde brede; do to peper & saffroun. Tempere hit with ale; boyl hit, do þerto.72 169. Goos in hochepot. Chop a goos in gobetes; sethe hym in his owne…73 170. Lamprons in browet. Scalde lamprons; sethe þem & broyl þem on a gredeyren. {Sethe ale & scoume hit.} Cast to poder of peper & safroun & {dresse þe lamprons in a dysshe. Cast þe cyryp þeron; loke hit be saltede.}74 171. Hennys in browes. Take hennes & fat porke; sethe hit togeder. Take brede & wete hit in ale, & grynde hit with peper & þe self brothe. Colour hit with safroun. Sethe hit; breke þe hennes in gobetes. Do þem in dysshes; cast þe browet þeron.75 172. Pourv[i]ens de Hay. Take slon76 & grinde þem with al þe stones. Take almondes & wasshe þem in colde water; grynde þem, hules & alle. Tempere þem with colde water. Draw þe mylke; do to þe slones grounden. Meddle hit wel togeder. Temper amadoun, þerto gronden ale77 ; do all in a clene pot. Set to þe fyre; stere hit welle. Cast on sugur, & sette down fro þe fyre. When hit ys al sodyn do hit in colde water, þen set ageyn on þe fyre & boyl hit welle, & þen take adoun fro þe fyre & take sugur & alse moche of powder of canelle, & meddle togyder, & dresse þys by þe on syde of þe dysshe & cast þy pouder aboven. Take clowes; styk hem þeron, & eft dresse blankmanger by þat oþer syde & serve forth.

Perhaps ‘þus', but ‘þis' makes better sense. ‘Salt Ele in browet' crossed out; then repeated. 72 No other recipes for salt eel have been found. 73 (Hieatt and Jones) A-N. A, 3. 81 Printed as GK 22; > (Hieatt and Jones) A-N. A, 4. 82 ‘f’ crossed out. 83 This appears to be a version of pork (or chicken) in sage sauce, although it omits the boiled egg yolks found in most such recipes; the title is another mystery. 84 This is one of a number of recipes for Eels in Sorre; the one in 4016 (p. 89) is perhaps the closest. 85 I know of no other dish resembling this one, nor any such title. 86 Note that Harley 279 has the same odd reading here, which Austin emended to "F[le]ysshe," p. 28. 87 279 PD 119, with variants.

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A GATHERING OF MEDIEVAL ENGLISH RECIPES

182. Viande de ounde88. Take streberyen in tyme of 8ere; wasshe þem in rede wyne & streyn þem 43v þro8 a clothe … reysons | sanz pepyns, sugur grete …89 183. Cyrycee. Take cheryoun in þe bygynnynge of þe sesoun; wasshe þem, pyke oute þe stones. Bray hem in a morter; presse þem þorow a clothe, & take þe licour & do hit in a clene pot. Do þerto whyte grece … with cheryes endored.90 184. Gylofre. Take wyne & sugur; do in a clene pot. Boyle hit; claryfye hit þrou8a clene clothe. Take canel, galyngal, & gylofrey; braye hem wel in a morter & tempere hem with þe same lycour,91 & draw hit þrou892a clothe, & þen boyle hit. Aly hit with flour of rys: make hit chargeaunt. Do þerto hole clowes, mace, quibibz, gynger; do parys gynger mycede. When hyt comes to þe servyse, serve blanke desyre & gylofre togydyr; pyche þe whit with pynes, þe gylofre with clowis.93 44r 185. Browet camel. (xxxv) Take chykyns & sethe þem in water, þen grynde almondes unblanchede. Temper þem up with haf þe brothe of þe chykenes & þat oþer dele with clene water. Take canel, a grete dele, & a litel gynger, & grynde hit with þy mylk. Cast sugur þerto. Boyle al þes togyder; stere hyt wel whyle hyt ys at þe fyre. Do þerto a lytel whyte grece when þu dost þy suger yn, þen take þy chykenys94 and chop þem in peces, & do þem in þe browet. Yf þu wil þu maye do þeryn flesshe of capouns or of hennes, fesauntz or pertriches. & be ware when þu takest hit fro þe fyre: sette hyt no8t on þe colde grounde for & þu do þe met[e] wil lese hys savour.95 186. Greynes. Take þe bowelys of a pyg; wasshe þem in water & salt. Seþe þem & hew þem smale. Grynde peper & safroun & brede, & temper hit with ale, & do þerto. Take eyrene & flour of whete & make þerof gode past, & make þerof smal peletes. Fry hem in grece; do þem in dyshes. When þy sewe ys wel yboylede poure hit aboven.96 88

? ‘un’ could be ‘nu’ or ‘mi.’ 279 PD 123, ’Strawberye,’ with variants. 90 279 PD 124, with variants. 91 ‘boyle hit’ crossed out. 92 ‘acothee’ crossed out. 93 ‘Gilofre’ here must mean clove pinks (gillyflowers) rather than cloves: cloves are always ‘clowes’ in this manuscript, and are so called in this recipe. 94 ‘& strep of þe skyn’ crossed out. 95 This ‘brewet’ is clearly named for the cinnamon called for. 96 This is a recipe for ‘Chauden,’ but the title, like so many here, is inexplicable. Very few recipes for Chauden call for fried pellets to accompany the dish: the only examples seem to be the ‘Chauden of veel’ and ‘Chauden of pigges fete’ in OP, 42-43, and the NBC recipe for Chauden of pig’s feet, 184, which is derived from that in OP. 89

BODLEIAN MS RAWLINSON D 1222

83

187. Chaudoun potage. Take bowels of a swan or of a pyg; make hit clene. Sethe it & hak hit smale. Do hit in þe brothe; aly hit with þe blode & with brede & vyneger & gode pouder. Take flour of whete; make past with 8olkes & suger & pouder. Make peletes þerof. Fry þem in grece; do in þy sew. Serve forþ.97 v 44 188. Chardequynce. 4016 106 45r (i) Bakemetes. 189. Pyes. OP 122 190. Crustades Lumbarde open. OP 123 45v 191. Crustade open. NBC 90 46r (ij) 192. Flampotes [SIC] baken open. 279 VF 29 193. Chewete of beef. OP 124 194. Bake chykenes. OP 126 195. Chewet Ryall. OP 125 46v 196. Tartes of Flesshe. OP 119 197. Doryels Ryall. Take gobetes of marow8; couche þem in smale98 coffyns & þerwith wardouns sodyn tender, paryde & cut on peces, & 8olkes of eyrene cut. Sette þe coffyns in þe owyn, & have a cyryp of creme of cowmylk lyede with 8olkes of eyren & sugur, safroun & salt; ful up þe coffyns þerwith. Bake þem & serve forthe. Or þu may boyle wyne & fresshe brothe, clowes, macis & marye, poder of gynger, & boil all þys & kepe þe brothe, & pit in þe coffyns wel ymyced dates & streberes in tyme of 8ere. Lete þy coffyns bake, & cast in þe syryp of creme & eyren & þe brothe. r 47 (iij) 198. Fresshe lampreye baken. OP 118 1, NBC 82 47v 199. To make sowpes in galentyne when þe lamprery ys away. OP 118 2, NBC 83 48r (iiij) 200. Baken porpays Sturgeoun fresshe or turbut.99 OP 121; NBC 87 201. Tartes of Fysshe. Take fygges boylede & grounde, & temprd with þyk mylk of almonde & with self brothe þat þu boylede hem in, & fresshe samoun, bars or melet, sodyn & pyked fro þe bones, clene & grounde. Do þerto in al maner as þu did with tartes flesshe. Frye þy reysens & pynes in oyl as þu didde100 þat oþer in grece;101 do togyder. Bake þem.

97

This is a variant of the recipe immediately above. Above the line. 99 NBC 87 gives the same inaccurate title found here, which is the correct title for no. 209, below. 100 SIC. 101 This refers to the Tartes of Flesshe of 196, above. 98

84

A GATHERING OF MEDIEVAL ENGLISH RECIPES

48v

202. Tartletes. OP 120 203. Chewetes on fysshe dayes. OP 127 204. Rastons. OP 107 49r (v) 205. Flaykyns. 4016 73102 206. Qwynces or wardouns in paste. Make fayr rounde coffyns of paste… in a coffyn, or put to claryfyde hony & pouder of peper, & cover þe coffyns & bake þem.103 207. Pyes of parys. OP 131 v 49 208. Herbalad. OP 134 50r (vj) 209. Sturgeoun or porpays or tourbut baken. 4016 105 Take sturgeon or any of þo & kut hit in … 210. Vensoun baken. 4016 73 211. Lamprouns baken. 4016 100 212. For to make Payn puffe. Take smale floure & new 8este & hete þe 8est with water, & put hit togeder, & make paste with þe same 8est & 8olkes of eyrene & sugur, safroun & salt & pouder of gynger; and make þy stuffe of 8olkes of eyrene rawe & more poudre of gynger, sugur, dates mycede, smal reysouns of coraunce, 50v safroun & salt. & take |104 þe forseyde paste & make cakys of a schapmonde105 brede. Take a porcion of þe same stuffe & put hit ynne, and take & wete þe sydes with106 water & lappe hit togedyr upry8t, & sete hit in an hote ovenne & loke to hit for brennynge. 213. For to make whyt doucetes. Make smal coffyns of fayr flour; put in þem marye, cut dates, reysouns of corans, suger & salt. Put þem in þe oven. Have a syryp of creme & whyt of eyrene & poudres & cast above when þey be somwhat bake harde, þen bake þem fayre & serve forthe. 51r Rostede metes. 214. Pestels of pork endored. Broche pestels of pork; do of þe skyn. Roste þem; take powdres & baste. Þan take 8olkes of eyrene drawn þrou8 a streynour. When þe pestels be rosted ynou8 drye þem þat no grece be rennynge upon þem; endore þem with þe 8olkes.107

102

‘Flathonys’—a more ‘correct’ title. 279 VF 21, with variants. 104 ‘take' repeated. 105 I have not seen this word before; on the analogie of Chaucer's "mapemounde," it is possible that it means ‘globe-shaped,' round. A more normal direction would be to make the cake of a ‘saucer brede,' as in # 262, below. 106 ‘with' repeated. 107 NBC 76, but with variants. 103

BODLEIAN MS RAWLINSON D 1222

85

215. Urchones in franke. Take mawes of pygges; make þem ry8t clene. Cut brawne of capouns & pork sodyn tender, & fygges scaldede. Hew þem & grynde þem; sesoun hit up with powdres & safroun & salt. Put to smal pynes of past; toyle hit togeder. Full þe mawes þerwith; loke hit be meddlede with 8olkes of eyren & payndemayn gratede. Sewe þem afore þat þe farsure go not owte, & boyl þem & take þem up. Put þem on a smale broche, & take of þe skyn. Pryk hit þyk with smale pynes of past & roste hit til hit swete. Have an endorynge of 8olkes, & colour hit with saundres, & endore hit þerwith; & serve forth.108 v 51 216. Eles in Remde. Fle grete eles; fle of þe skyn tyl þu come almost to þe tayl. Shave away al þe hores; splat hym on þe bak as þu dost a congour. Lat þe bely be hole. Do way þe bon. Take þe skyn of anoþer ele; loke hit be clene. Splatte hit in lengthe. Toyl hit in powder of greynse & wyne or vergeus & a litel safroun & salt. Lay hit wyþynne þe bodye of þe ele; lay þe ele togedir a8eyne. Prik hit full of clowes & pynes & parede gynger, & slyve109over þe skyn a8eyne. Bynde hym fast at þe hede þat þe moyster go not oute. Put hym on a broch; roste hym. loke þe bodye withyn be bastyde with þe forseyde syryp &110 wasshe hym in hote water or he be do on þe broche.111 217. Alowys of motoun. Douce 17, 4016 83 52r (ij) 218. Goos or capoun farcyde. OP 166 219. Pygge farced. Douce 37, 4016 82 220. Pommes. 279 PD 46 52v 221. 112Brest of motoun in sauce. OP 168 222. Syngnette [SIC] Rost. " 140 53r (iij) 223. Crane Rostyd. " 141 224. Feysaunt Rostyd. " 142 225. Pertryche Rosted. " 143

108 I do not know what ‘franke’ means; perhaps ‘French style’? This is the most elaborate recipe for simulated ‘hedgehogs’ I have seen; it makes one sympathize with the view of the Menagier de Paris that this is too elaborate a dish to be feasible in a normal kitchen. 109 Miswritten ‘slyde'? 110 ‘a’ crossed out, ‘&’ repeated. 111 This seems to be a ‘reversed eel' recipe, found in French sources, but as far as I know in only one other English manuscript, Ashmole 1393, printed above; the Ashmole recipe is entitled ‘ele reversid,' but it does not tell us clearly how to ‘reverse' the eel. ‘Remde' could easily have arisen from a misreading of some spelling of ‘reversed.' 112 ‘Brosr’ crossed out.

86

A GATHERING OF MEDIEVAL ENGLISH RECIPES

53v

226. Heroun Rosted. NBC 109113 227. Bytore roste. OP 146, NBC 110114 228. Egrete rosted. " 147 54r (iiij) 229. Corlewe rosted. " 148 230. Brew rosted. " 149 231. Quayle rostyd. " 144 232. Cony rosted. " 150 54v 233 Rabet rosted. " 151 234. Sarcel rosted. " 152 235. Plovere rosted. " 153 236. Wodecoc or snyte rosted. " 154,155115 237. Kyd rostede. " 156 P. v (r and v) of the original is missing here; 2 - 10 recipes plus the beginning of 238 were on these pages. 55r (vj) 238. … of an hastelet þen take hit of þe spytte al hole; cut hyt fayr of a span of lengthe & serve forthe, or a pece or two in a dyshe al hoot.116 239. The syde of þe dere rosted. Endore þe syde with 8olkes of eyrene, pouder gynger & salt; peynt hit with iiij leystes117of sylvur overtwhart þe schulder, & pyche þe leystes ful of clowes, þe hedes ygylde.118 240. Capoun in kyslanes. Take a capoun; blow hym, strepe of þe skyn. Take þe flesshe of the capoun; grynde hit in a morter, & chardequynce & pynonade grounden þeramonge. Þen put hit a8eyn in þe capoun skyn & sowe hit togeder lyke a capoun; þen put hit on a broche & lete roste ynow. Serve forth.119 v v 55 -57 Blank 58r (i) Lechemetes. 241. Brawn in confit. OP 65 242. Blanche brawn. " A.7 243. Leche lumbard. " 66 58v 244. Brawn Riall brawn Sypres brawn brusse. " 89 59r (ij) 59v 245. Brawn Riall in lenten. " 90

113

Very sight differences from OP 145. Uses ‘trusse’ where OP reads ‘reys’ and NBC ‘fold’. In reverse order. 116 This is "Trayne roste": Douce 157, 4016 p. 97. 117 SIC; perhaps 'lists' in the sense of ‘strips' is meant? 118 No other recipe for a roast ‘side' of venison resembles this; the ‘heads' to be gilded are the tops of the cloves. 119 Another apparently unique recipe; this may have evolved from ‘Capons in Cassels,’ and if so the NBC recipe, ‘in cassolont,’ 261, is the nearest. 114

115

BODLEIAN MS RAWLINSON D 1222

87

60r (iij) 246. Betryn in fleshe tyme. " 92 60v 247. Betryn in lente. " 91 248. Sturgeoun for sopers. " 93 249. Colde leche viande. " 94 61r (iiij) 250. Leche Lumbard. " 95 61v-62v Blank 63r (i) 251. Gely of ffysshe. " 100 63v 252. Crystall Gely. " 101 r 64 (ij) 253. Gelye of Flesshe. Take conyes streppe þem scalde pygges … as þu dost with þe fysshe.120 254. Butur of almoundes. UC 7 64v-66v Blank 67r (i) Ffryed metes. 255. Sawge leves. Take gysers of capouns; do þam in a potte when þey be made clene. Boyl þem. Do þem on a borde, & a litel boylede pork þerwith. Hew hit togeder ry8t smal; do þerto poudres & salt, & yf þu wil a litel perslye. Take brode sauge leves; couche þeryn. Wete þe lef with 8olke of an eye & lay anoþer lefe above, & close þe brerdes togider. Tourne þem þat þey be heled in batur; frye þem. Serve as frutur.121 256. Frutur Cypres. Take reysens; cut dates on quarters. Bruse fygges on brede; cut þem in quarters, or smaller if þu wil. Blanche almondes; do togider. Broche hit on prykkes þat be no grettur þan a rysshe. Make a battur of þyk mylk of almondes & pared flour, & turne þe frutur in powdres & sumwhat of salt. Lat hit wel cleve þerto; sen turne þem þat þey be helede in þe batur. Fry þem; serve þem forthe as frutur. Strew on white sugur. 257. Sauterys in lenten. Take raw samoun grounde; do to poder of peper, of gynger, & of clowes, safroun & salt. Make a foile of past & cut hit in pynes,122 & fry þem. Put 67v to þe fysshe; meddle hit togeder. Make a þynne batur of pared | flour & fayre water. Make þe fysshe in rounde rollys handlong; turne þem in batur & frye þem up with oyle.123

120

OP 102, but beginning is closer in wording to NBC 67. < FC 168, but at a great distance. 122 Slivers? 123 It is possible that the name of this dish is related to the modern culinary term ‘sauté,' from a French verb meaning ‘to jump,' but the culinary use of this term is not documented in English before the nineteenth century, according to the OED. 121

88

A GATHERING OF MEDIEVAL ENGLISH RECIPES

258. Frutur lumbarde. Take pork or veel soden tender. Pyke hit fro þe bones; do hit in a morter, & tender chese withalle. Grynde hit with 8olkes of eyrene. Make hit in peletes þe grettenes of a 8olke of an eye; frye hit. Serve forthe as frutur.124 259. Rysshews. Make paste of floure kneden with water. Make hit in a þynne foile; couche in a stuf of marow dicede & myced dates & corance & pouder gynger, sugur, & salt. Turne over þe foile þat hit be þe gretenes & of þe lengthe of þy fyngere; close hit wel by þe egges. Cut þe foile. Serve þem forthe vi or vii in a disshe, & yf þu lyst þu may make rounde coffyns & do yn þe same stuf, & fry þem. 260. Oþer manere Rysshews of fruit. Make paste of floure kneden with water; make a þyn foyle. Have a stuf of fygges & reysens grounde, & put to claryfyde honye & a litel creme of almondes, safroun & salt. Couche in þe foyle & close hit in þe maner as þu dyd þat othere. Colour þem with safroun; frye þem in oyle. Serve forthe. 68r (ij) 261. Hattes. OP 112 262. Malesade. Do claryfyde buttur in a fryinge pan, þan make hit hot. Draw eyrene þrou8 a streynour; do þerto salt. Powre þem in þe myddle of þe pan. When hit ys fryede a lytel, gedre hit into a cake in þe myddes of þe pan & of a sawcer brede. Dyce payndemayn in smale morcells; couche in þe myddes of þe cake. Baste hit a litel over with one of þe self eyrene. To every malesade xii egges. Serve forthe hote; strew on white sugur. 263. Raueons.125 Make foiles of past. Make a good stuf of pork soden tender & grounde; sesoun hit up with good powdres & salt. Close hit in þe same foiles þe mekelnes of fysshes. Colour þem with safroun þe over syde. Boyl þem up in fatte brothe colourede with safroun, & dresse forthe in dysshes. Florysse hit wel with gratede chese. 264. Samacays. OP 108 69r (iij) 265. Longe frutur. OP 109 266. Payn purdiew. OP 110 267. Enaus.126

124 125 126

Cf. end of OP 109: a brief recipe for ‘freture Lumbard' appended to one for ‘long fryturys.’ I.e., ravioli. Evans? Euaus?

BODLEIAN MS RAWLINSON D 1222

89

Take þe but of motoun & pare hit clene aweye from þe bones, & þe sewete aboute þe kydneres,127 & hew þem smal togidre with mynts & perslye & oþer herbes hewn smale togider. Tempere up with 8olkes of eyrene128 v 69 268. Pety peruels.129 Take marye & cut hit in smale gobetes, & dates, kut reysens of coranse, & sugur, pouder of gynger, a grete quantite, & yf þu wil 8olkes of eyrene soden harde & grounden smale. Do togider with safroun & salt. Make smale coffyns of past of paryde flour & 8olkes of eyrene & sugur; ful þem up with þe forseyde stuffe. Loke þey be closede. Frye þem, or yf þu wil bake þem. Strew on sugur above when þu servest hem. 269. Hagges of Almayn. OP 104 70r (iiij) 270. Faltes. OP 106 271. Pommes dorre. Take porke & vele hewne smale & grounden; put to reysouns of corans & dates m[y]cede. Meddle hit with 8olkes of eyrene & powdres, safroun 70v & salt. Make hit on peletes þe mekelnes of an appul. Have | a pan on þe fyre with boylynge brothe; do þem þeryn. When þey [be] hard put them on a smal broche; lay þem to þe fyre. When þey be rostede ynow8, have 8olkes of eyrene drawn þrou8 a streynour & swonge wel togeder. Endore þem þerwith & with wyne, and þen take fro þe fyre. Have juys of herbes, & sprynge þem þerwith til hit be in þe colour of an appull, & serve forthe. 272. Brawne fryez.130 Douce 6, 279 LV 45 273. Hanoneye. Take eyren & breke þem, þe 8olkes & þe whyte, & draw þem þrou8 a streynour. Cut oynouns smale. Take fayre grece; unneþe cover þe pan þerwith. Frye þe oynouns wel, þen cast to þe eyrene & late þem fry togider a litel while. 71r (v) Loke þu meddle þem togider when þey be afryynge. Þen take þem up & serve þem forthe so broke togader in a dysshe. 274. Cryspes. Douce 61, 4016 p. 93 275. Potrouns. Douce 62, 4016 p. 93 v 71 276. Losenges de chare. Douce 74, 4016 82 277. Frutur. Douce 153, 4016 96 72r (vj) 278. Losenges fryede. Douce 154, 4016 97 279. Tanseye. Douce 176, 4016 86

127

SIC. Apparently the scribe forgot to copy the rest of the recipe: this is at the bottom of the page, but what appears at the top verso is the beginning of a new recipe. 129 Pety pervant. 130 For 279’s ‘menged Flowre,’ ‘mayn flour.’ 128

90

A GATHERING OF MEDIEVAL ENGLISH RECIPES

v

72

131 132 133 134

280. Froys.131 Douce 182, 4016 86 281. Stewed Stekes of Venson or Motoun.132 Cut venson or moton133 smale lytell thynne leshys & put them in a fryyng panne with ale by wese [?] & boyle them welle tylle they be ny tendour. Then134 take them & fry them in butter tylle they be tendur; than make a syryp for them. Take rede wyne, vynegyr ynouh, and butter, & put them in a pote to stew tylle they be halfe consumed; and then fors them up with synamom, gynger, & suger, and coloure hit with saforne.

Ends, ‘Serve forthe hote.’ Messily added recipe in a somewhat later hand. ‘in’—blurred. ‘then’ repeated.

BRITISH LIBARY MSS SLOANE 7 AND SLOANE 442

91

British Libary MSS Sloane 7 and Sloane 442: Recipes in Sloane 7 and 442 which do not appear in OP.

99v

A. B.L. MS Sloane 7: The first six recipes below appear between OP 83 and 86; some are parallel to OP recipes (84-85, 76), but not the same recipes. The recipe numbers here are, of course, no indication of the numbers of the recipes in the original manuscripts. 1. Caudel fferrey. Take vernage or odyr swete wyne; take yokys of eyrin betyn & in the beting draw awey the scome & than [s]treyne them & do all togydyr in a potte & put sugyr jnowgh, & colure it with safron & [s]tyr it well. And take a lytill peyndemayn & stepe it in the selfe wyne, & streyn it, & put into the same potte & styr it wel, & make the caudel standyng. & at þe fyrst boyling do it fro the fyre & drysse it forth upon lechys in dyschys & strew on suger & serve it forthe. 2. Caudel ferres. Take chekyns sothyn & chope tham & cast tham in broth of beffe, & cast þerto clous, macz, pynes, reysins of corancz & a lytil wyne & safron. & for tenne mese take þe yolkys of xl eyrin betyn & streynyd & take saunders & canel drawyn, & put þerto in the same potte; & than take halfe a quartron of gynger powderd & bete it with the yolkes, & in the seting downe put it in the same potte & styr it wel togyder & make it rynyng & sumwhat hanging, & serve it forth. Or els take conynges in stede of chekyns & do þe same. 3. Moun Amye. Take thyke creme of cowe mylke & boyle it; þan take it up & sette it osyde & kele it. Than take swete chese crudde & presse owt þe qywe & bray tham in a morter & cast tham into the same creme, & boyle al togyder; & put þerto sugyr & safron & May butter. Than tak yolkes of egges & bete tham & streyned, & in þe seting downe of the potte put in the yolkes þerto & styr it wel, & make þe potage standyng; & dresse v or vj lechys in a dysch & plante it with florys of vyolet & serve it forth. 4. Charlette. Take swete cowe mylke & eyrin, the yolkes and all, & sethyn porke brayd withowt erbys, or els hew it small; & put them in a pott & sethe tham togydyr to þe crudde, & coloure it with safron. Than take it up & dresse it. Than take creme of almundes or of cowe mylke & boyle it & put þerto sugar, & coloure it depe with safron, & lay iij or iiij lechys of the charlet on a dysch & powre the creme above; & mel suger & saunders & macz togyder & strew above & serve it.

92

105r

109v

1

A GATHERING OF MEDIEVAL ENGLISH RECIPES

5. Creme boylyd. Take creme of cowmylk & eyrin, þe yolkes betyn togyder, & suger & safron: melle all togyder. Boyle it þat it be standyng & dresse it forth standyng on lechys, & plant it with flourys of borage, & serve it forth. 6. Cawdel rynnyg. Take vernage or1 odyr gode swete wyne or gode ale & yokes of eyrin, betyn & streynid, & put þerto suger & coloure it with safron, & seh it tyl it begynne to boyle & serve it forth. The following three recipes appear between OP 139 and 140: 7. To make chardecoynes. OP A.4 8. To make grene gynger. Take gynger columbyn a pund; pare tham & lay tham in water a day & a nyght & þan take tham owte & lay tham in a strong leye made of hawthornes assche be iiij days. Þan take up & presse tham betwene two bordes to þe lycour be owte of þam, & than lay tham in rumney2 a day & a nyght & presse þam ageyne; and than ley þam in þe last syrip made of pot suger claryfyd. 9. A bakyn mete overte. Take loyns of porke & sethe tham & bray tham a lytil in a morter. Cast þerto a few yolkes of eyrin, & take up the farsse & do it in a feyr vessel & coloure it with a lytil safron & put to pouder gynger or peper; & make cofyns maner of custardes. Than take þe same farsse & make þerof pelettes þe montnance of a walnotte, & lay vj in o past or as many as þu wyl, & do in þe same past dates quartered yf þu wyl, & reysins of corans & macz. & take creme & thycke mylke & yolk of eyrin streynyd & do to þe creme, & coloure it with saffron & put þerto suger or hony claryfid & halfe a saucerful of verjuice, & put the past into the ovyn & forthwith put þe syrip abowve & lat tham stand tyl þei be bakyn. The following fourteen recipes (but note that the second and third are actually two parts of the same recipe) come between OP 168 and 169. Some do not make very good sense. 10. [Crapee].3 Grynde almundes & temper tham wyth wyne & draw a thycke mylke; þan perte it into a vesel & sette it in erthyn pottes and sesyn up þe to potte with some of þe wyne þat it is drawyn withall & alye it with pouder of canell drawyn. Fyl it with not kyrnels or with walsche nottes pyllid clene & pouder of gyn[g]er & safron & salt, and þe oder part with cow mylke a[s]

MS. ‘of.’ According to the OED, ‘rumney’ was ‘a sweet wine of Greek origin, much used in England during the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries’. 3 Title cut off here; this is the title the same recipe has in Bodleian MS e. Mus. 52. 2

BRITISH LIBARY MSS SLOANE 7 AND SLOANE 442

93

thycke as þu may. Pare peris & quarter them; plante tham in dyschis & poure the syrip abowne. 11. Potage ryall. Grynd fyges dry with a lytyl moystour of ossey; draw þam as wel as two strange4 men may draw it, than deperte þe stuffe in two partes & temper up þe ton paste as thyck as mortrewys. Do to canel, pouder gynger a litell vyneger & salt. 12. The secunde course. Do to þe oder pert suger, gynger, canel, & resins of corance; to[yl] tham wel togyder, than make þe past with rawe creme & res them & sette tham in a hote place ageyne the sonne. & when they or5 styffe couche your stuffe in tham & plante them with clowis & strew on blanch pouder & salt. 13. Leche Bastard. Take potte suger; draw it thrugh a streynour. Grynd dates dry als small as þu may; toyle þam wel to gyder tyl they be styffe as þei may be be. Do to tham pepper, clowes, & suger, a gret quantite of saunders & set it ageyn the sonne tyl it be styf. Salt it & leche fayr, iij or iiij in a dysch. 14. Blanch Bruett. Blanch almundys in colde water; grynd tham small. Draw tham with whyte wyne; do to tha[m] ffyges small mynsyd, & do in pouder gynger, suger, & salt. 15. Pere quartrd. Take peres paryd; grynde tham small. Drawe tham with raw creme as styf as þu may. Seson it with pouder gynger, suger, & salt. 16. Rape Ryall. Grynd fyges. Draw tham with wyne bastard; seson tham up with canell, pepper, gynger, salt, & colour tham with saf[ron]. 17. Cressadys.6 Take suger, wyne bastarde, & amydowne, & draw tham all togyder. Seson tham up with vynegyr & pouder of greyns & colour tham with turnesole, & do to salt. 18. Message. Grynde dates small. Toyle tham with perys mynsid small; seson tham up with pouder of greyns & long peper & cannell. Draw tham with whyte wyne & do to salt. 19. Armanacke. Draw raw creme throwgh a cloth or a streynour into a panne of erth. Take hole yolkes off eyrin; ley tham ayeynste þe sonne tyll þei be harde, than 4 5 6

Strong. Are. I cannot explain this title—or the next two, or most of those immediately following..

94

110r

14r 16r 7

A GATHERING OF MEDIEVAL ENGLISH RECIPES

bake7 tham with your hondes, & do to þe oder, & seson tham with pouder gynger & synomom & salt. 20. Makaroune.8 Lay dates in qhyte wyne all a nyght, & on the morue grynd tham small & smoth in a morter. Seson tham up with pouder of canell ynogh, pouder cloues, & mace & toyle tham su.... of reysins of corans & do to pouder of pepper & salt, & serve it forth. 21. Ravyoll.9 Take qwhyte suger; breke it in a morter, draw it through a streynour with saffren, & do to it tryed gynger mynsid & dates mynsid right small so þat it have dates jnogh. Do to pouder of clowes, & plant them with streberys & do to tham a lytill vineger. 22. Caper Vyande.10 Take pannes of erthe & put þerin þe rynnyng of a calfe & þe mylke of a cowe all hote abowne, & lat it stand in þe sonne tyll it be well comne[?]. Þan put it in dyverse vesels and gyf it dyverse colours; do to aythyr blanch pouder jnowh, than lay ilk a colour be hemselfe in a canvas. Than fold the canvas fowr square & presse tham with a hevy payce till they be styfe. Loke it be salt. Than lech tham & strewe pouder gynger abovyn & beneth. 23. Trape Dysire. Take fayr flour & draw tham with bastarde, & draw tham with whyte of eryn; cast þerto suger, safron, & salt. Temper it togyder. Make a styffe past & reyse your cofyns thyn, lawe11 & brode. Than take fyges, dates, & reysins & grynde tham dry with a moystour of clarre; than d[r]aw tham throgh a streynour & seson tham up with pouder marchand jnogh, & coch tham in þe cofyn. Than make in your cofyns smal holys; than take raw yolkes of eryn & draw tham throgh a streynour with suger jnogh & fyll every hole full, & sett tham ageyn the sonne al hote as þu may on hote lede to thay be bakyn jnogh. And allwey take salt of the baye for it is made without fyre. B. B.L. MS Sloane 442: 1. Blawnchid brawn. 2. Mortrewys Eveas.

OP A.7

Take? The earliest mention of ‘macaroon’ appears to be of the early seventeenth century, but this recipe certainly is not recognizably a macaroon—containing no almonds, e.g. But since it is not clear how those cakes got their name, this may be associated, rather, with ‘macrons’—macaroni; which it does not resemble, either. 9 This is neither what we understand as ‘ravioli’ nor the meat balls entitled (elsewhere) ‘Raphioles.’ 10 This seems to be a sort of curd cheese. 11 Low. 8

BRITISH LIBARY MSS SLOANE 7 AND SLOANE 442

19r

12

95

Take brawn of capons or fesantys sodyn tendur & hak it; grynde it smal. Temper it with melke of almondys drawyn wit osay & seson it up wit sugar & good podereys & salt, & 8yff þu wilt þu may alay it with payndemayn. 3. Pekok rostyd.12

Identical to the Sloane 7 recipe printed as OP A.8.

96

A GATHERING OF MEDIEVAL ENGLISH RECIPES

B.L. MS Sloane 1108 The vast majority of recipes in this collection are either parallel to Austin’s Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery Books (probably often most close to the Douce 55 readings, but not in the Douce order) or to "Diversa Servicia," with two or three from other sources. The variants from these known collections are, in general, trivial. There are, however, others for which I have found no close parallels—or, in some cases, no identifiable parallel at all. In the list which follows, recipes with close parallels are identified by page numbers if the parallels are in Austin’s edition; sometimes more-or-less the same recipe also appears elsewhere in Austin’s volume, but one citation should suffice for identification. Recipes with other parallels are listed by initials for the collection (DS for "Diversa Servicia," e.g.) and recipe number in that collection. Twelve recipes with no close parallels are transcribed in full. The recipes are numbered with Roman numerals in the manuscript; these numerals suggest that at least one leaf is missing, since the numbering jumps from 5 (‘v’) at the bottom of fol. 1v to 16 (‘xvj’) at the top of 2r. This would indicate that ten recipes are missing, but in fact something else must be askew somewhere along the line since the last recipe, 136 by my count, is numbered 150. I have not tried to track down where the original count falls short. I have, in any case, renumbered, using Arabic numerals. This early fifteenth-century manuscript does not contain a table of contents. 1r 1v 2r 2v 3r 3v 4r

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19.

Felettys en galentyne. Blandeser. Venesoun en brothe. Nomblys of venesoun. Elys en surre. Braune ov syrup. Soupes en dorre. Chare de wardon. Leche lumbarde. Altre manere leche lumbarde. Altre manere braune en peverade. Caudel dalmondez. Peres en composte. Lyed soppys. Oistres en grave. Chaut leet dalmandes. Longe wortes de chare. Longe wortes de pessoun. Boef stuez.

8 9 10 10 89 71-72 90 88 92 93 71 96 87 113 100 96 5 5 6

B.L. MS SLOANE 1108

4v 5r 5v 6r

6v 7r 7v 8r 8v 9r 9v 10r 10v 11r 11v 12r 12v 13r

20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27. 28. 29. 30. 31. 32. 33. 34. 35. 36. 37. 38. 39. 40. 41. 42. 43. 44. 45. 46. 47. 48. 49. 50. 51. 52. 53. 54. 55. 56. 57. 58. 59. 60. 61.

Trype de motoun. Pykel pur le malarde. Wardons en soryp. Froyde leet dalmandez. Froyde creem dalmandez. Creeme buille. Papyns. Cony en grave. Cony ou geli[n] en clere broth. Cony malarde or henne ou gelin en cyve. Gelyn en doubad. Bucknade. Altre manere de bucknade. Mortrews de pessoun. Garbagez. Blaunche porre. Caudel Ferry. Taillours. Bryneeuz. Malmene bastarde. Altre manere malmane. Gyngaudre. Fyggee. Chaudeun de salmoun. Rapee. Jussell de pessoun. Caboches. Charlet. Gelee de chare. Gelee de pessoun. Juselle de chare. Lorrey. Tanesey. Frumente ov venesoun. Caudelle. Flawnes. Crustade lumbarde. Fryede brawne. Peti8ts pernauntz. Longe Fruter. Oues ou capon fassez. Blaunche braune.

97

82 77 7 91 91 8 9 80 80 80 80 85 (1) 85 (2) 90 72 90 15 94 91 94 88 94 94 95 94 95 67 117 86 95 87 17 86 70 96 51 51 83 50 73 81 71

98

13v 14r

14v 15r 15v

16r 16v 17r 17v 18r 18v

1 2

A GATHERING OF MEDIEVAL ENGLISH RECIPES

62. Chewettes. 48 63. Russhews de marry. 85 64. Herbelade. 76 65. Sauce Camelyne. 77 66. Gauncelle. 77 67. Alpeawe.1 77 68. Gyngere. 77 69. Galyntyne. 77 70. Jou8tes. 5 71. Aloes de moton. 83 72. Crustade. 74 73. Chawdwyun. 76 74. Tartez de char. 47 75. Tartez de pessoun. Take fygges and sethe hem in wyne, and grynde hem smal; and þanne take hem up into a vessell, and take poudre of peper and canel and cloves and mace and grete resens, and fry hem in oyle and cast hem þerto. And make fayre low cofyns and so couche þe stuff þerynne, and plante above prunys and kut dates, and kytte fayre fresshe salmoun in peces, or ellys fresshe elys, and perboile hem and couche þeron. And kever þe cofyns with þe same paste, and endorre þe cofyns withoute with safroun and with water, or els with safroun and almonde mylke, and set hem in þe ovyn and lete hem bake; and þenne serve hem forth. 76. Pyke en brase. 101 77. Flampoyntez bake. 53 78. Sauce pur le lamprey. 99 79. Braune en comfyte. 71 80. Payne perdoux. 83 81. Perrey. 83 82. Maleassade.2 83 83. Hanoney. 84 84. Cryspes. 93 85. Petitez pernaunts. 74 (1) 86. Rastouns. 98 87. Venesoun rostede. 81 88. Losenges Fryez. 97 89. Rysshews Fryez. 97 90. Chewettes Fryez. 98 91. Treyne rosted. 97

Miswritten ‘Alpevere.’ Ends, ‘…a doseun eyroun or els mo.’

B.L. MS SLOANE 1108

19r 19v 20r

20v

21r

21v 3 4 5 6 7

99

92. Lamprey bake. 52 93. Capon en counfyt. 115 94. Pousyn en dorre. 81 95. Pousyn far[c]ez. 81 96. Blamaunger. 85 97. To make brasyll3 on flessheday. Take vele and porke and roste it, and smyte þat in peces and þanne take fayre brothe and brede for to lyþe4 with. Þanne take brawne and kut it smal quarter | wyse as a dyse, and þan take peper, cloves, maces and quibubys. In case þat þu failes5 quybybys take greynes of paryse; and coloure it with saundres. And take onyouns and myce hem smal and boil it amonge, & serve it forth. 98. To make brasyll on þe fysshedays. 20 99. To make sturgyn. GK 24 100. To make gelye. Take pygges and vele or capons and do of þe skyn of þe pygges and boile hem togedre; þan take up fayre gobettes and put in dysshys and take þe brothe, and put it on a bagge and put in every dysshe .iiii. peces or .v. And boile peper and safroun & ale togedres, and take and sett undr þe dysshe with flesshe. And take cloves and maces and ley þeramonge in þe droppynges of þe sewe, and serve it forth. 101. Leche lumbarde. Take hony and vele and sethe it, and cast þe brothe and þe hony togedre. Þanne take þe vele and hewe | it smal and grynde it and cast hem togedre. Þanne take peper, a good quantite þat it stonde wel þerby, and whanne it is wel soden cast it in a cloþe and presse it wele tyl it be colde, and serve it forthe. 102. Leche casuay.6 Take vele and sethe it; [take]7 almoundes .iii. pounde or .iiii. and blanche hem and grynde hym in a morter, and temper hem with þe same broth þat þe vele was soden ynne. Þanne take sugure and poudre of gynger and medle it togedre. Þanne take an erthyn vessell & put þeryn, and ley it with þe brothe of þe vele and serve it forth. 103. Mortrews. DS 5 104. Rape. 113 105. Blaunche Bruett. DS 13 106. To make a froys. " 18

I.e., Brassee, a braised dish; almost all other known recipes are for fish. Thicken? Lack. I have not seen the word ‘casuay’ before and cannot explain it. MS ‘in.’

100

22r

22v

23r

8

A GATHERING OF MEDIEVAL ENGLISH RECIPES

107. Freteurs. " 19 108. A gose in hochepott. " 22 109. Mylke rostede. " 25 110. Soppys in dorre. " 65 & cf. 114 111. Espyne.8 " 46 112. Haddocke in cyve.9 114 113. Rosee. Take an hanfull or ii of rosys and bray þe floures in a morter with whyte brede or wastel brede, and tempere it up with almondes mylke, or elles cow mylke, and lyþe | it wele and þycke with egges, and coloure it with safroun, and boile it wele. And cast þerto sugure and serve it forth. 114. Blanck de surre.