Haynes Mazda 626 and MX-6 Automotive Repair Manual 1563923734, 9781563923739

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j 61041

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626 & MX-6 1983 thru 1992 n

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Front- wheel drive

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Haynes Repair Manual Based on a complete teardown and rebuild

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Includes essential information for today's

more complex

vehicles

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Digitized by the Internet Archive in

2011

http://www.archive.org/details/mazda626mx6autom00warr

Mazda 626 and MX-6 Automotive Repair

Manual by Larry Warren and John H Haynes Member

of the Guild of Motoring Writers

Models covered: Mazda 626 and MX-6 and 2.0 liter 4-cylinder engines with 4 or 5-speed manual or 3-speed automatic transaxle 1983 through 1992 Does not include diesel engine information 1

.6

(11C13- 61041) (1082)

AirrcMcnvG &

Ittl'TS

* ASSCCL ^icn :-(:J

Haynes Publishing Group Sparkford Nr Yeovil

Somerset BA22 7JJ England

Haynes North America, 861 Lawrence Drive Newbury Park California

91320

USA

Inc

^^V ^^^A MEMBER

ABCD

Acknowledgements

We are

grateful for the help and cooperation of the Mazda Motor Company for their assistance with technical information, certain illustrations and vehicle photos.

©

Haynes North America,

Inc.

1986,1988,1990,1991,2000

A book

in

the Haynes Automotive Repair Manual Series

Printed

in

the U.S.A.

reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

All rights in

ISBN

1

56392 373 4

Library of

Congress Catalog Card Number 00-100879

made to ensure that the information in this manual can be accepted by the authors or publishers for damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omission^from. the

While every attempt is

correct,

loss,

no

information given.

00-288

is

liability

0-3

Contents Introductory pages About this manual Introduction to the

Mazda 626 and MX-6

General dimensions Vehicle identification numbers Buying parts Maintenance techniques, tools and working Booster battery (jump) starting

Jacking and towing Automotive chemicals and lubricants Conversion factors Safety first! Troubleshooting

Chapter

facilities

0-5 0-5 0-5 0-6 0-7 0-7

0-13 0-13 0-14 0-15 0-16 0-17

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

Chapter 2

Part

A

Engines

Chapter 2

Part

1-1

2A-1

2A

2B-1

2B

B

General engine overhaul procedures

1

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and

air

conditioning systems

1

3

1

4

5- 1

5

6- 1

6

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

Chapter 5 Engine

electrical

systems

Chapter 6 Emissions and engine control systems

Part Manual transaxle

A

Chapter 7

B

Chapter 7

Part

Automatic transaxle

7A ,

7A

7B-1

7B

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles

8-1

8

9-1

9

Chapter 9 Brakes

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

Chapter

10-1

10

11-1

11

12-1

12

1

Body

Chapter 12 Chassis

electrical

system

Wiring diagrams

12-20

Index

IND-1

IND

0-4

Haynes mechanic, author and photographer with Mazda 626

0-5

About Its

this

manual

purpose The purpose

of this

manual

is

to help

you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done, even if you choose to have it done by a dealer service department or a repair shop; it provides information and procedures for routine maintenance and servicing; and it offers diagnostic and repair procedures to follow when trouble

Using the manual The manual is divided into Chapters. Each Chapter is divided into numbered Sections, which are headed in bold type between horizontal lines. Each Section consists of consecutively

occurs.

We

must pass on to you to cover its labor and overhead costs. An added benefit is the sense of satisfaction and accomplishment that you feel after doing the job yourself.

hope you use the manual

the work yourself. For

to tackle

many

simpler jobs, be quicker than arrang-

doing it yourself may ing an appointment to get the vehicle into a

shop and making the trips to leave it and pick up. More importantly, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the expense the shop it

numbered paragraphs. numbered Secbe referred to any illustrations

At the beginning of each

you will which apply to the procedures in that Section. The reference numbers used in illustration

that Section.

Procedures, once described in the text, are not normally repeated. When it's necessary to refer to another Chapter, the reference will be given as Chapter and Section number. Cross references given without use of the word "Chapter" apply to Sections and/or paragraphs in the same Chapter. For example, "see Section 8" means in the same Chapter. References to the left or right side of the vehicle assume you are sitting in the driver's seat, facing forward.

Even though we have prepared this manual with extreme care, neither the pub-

tion captions pinpoint the pertinent Section

lisher

and the Step within that Section. That

for

illustration 3.2

means

Section 3 and Step

is,

the illustration refers to (or

nor the author can accept responsibility

any errors mation given.

in,

or omissions from, the infor-

paragraph) 2 within

NOTE A Note provides information necessary to make the procedure easier to understand.

properly complete a procedure or information which

will

CAUTION A Caution

provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the Caution is found. Not heeding a Caution can result in damage to the assembly

being worked on.

WARNING A Warning

provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the Warning is found. Not heeding a Warning can result in personal injury.

Introduction to the

Mazda 626 and MX-6 These models are available in 2-door coupe, 4-door sedan and 4-door liftback body styles and feature four coil suspension and front wheel drive. The cross-mounted four-cylinder engine

General

is equipped with a conventional carburetor. The engine drives the front wheels through a choice of either a 4-speed or 5-speed manual transaxle or a 3-speed automatic transaxle. The rack and pinion steering gear is mounted

di

Overall length

177

Overall width

66.5

in

55.7

in

53.7

in

in

Overall height

4-door 2-door

behind the engine. The brakes are disc at the front and either drum-type or disc at the rear, with vacuum servo assist as standard equipment.

0-6

Vehicle identification

The Vehicle

Identification

Number

side of the dashboard and

Modifications

are

unpublicized process

in

is

on the driver's through the windshield

(VIN) is located

visible

a continuing and vehicle manufactur-

ing. Since spare parts manuals and lists are compiled on a numerical basis, the individual

vehicle

numbers are essential component required.

to correctly

identify the

Vehicle identification

number

(VIN) This very important identification is

number

located on a plate attached to the top

numbers

left

comer

The VIN number can also be found stamped on the engine compartment firewall (A) and the body identification plate (B)

dashboard of all U.S. vehicles. is also stamped on the firewall in the engine compartment and on the adjacent body identification tag. The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certificate of Title and Registration. It contains valuable information such as where and when the vehicle was manufactured, the model year and the body style. of the

The VIN

Engine identification numbers The engine

identification

numbers are

stamped on the cylinder block below the number one spark plug, adjacent to the alternator.

Transaxle

number

The transaxle on a

ID

numbers are stamped below

label affixed to the bellhousing.

the rear of the cylinder head.

Alternator The

numbers

alternator

numbers are located on a

tag affixed to the housing

Vehicle Emissions Control

Information numbers The alternator serial number and engine number (B)

The Emissions Control Information

(A)

locations

is

label

attached to the underside of the hood.

Engine information labels The vacuum

mended

lubricant

hose routing, recomand drivebelt checking

adjustment procedure diagram labels are all located on the underside of the hood (photo).

Body

identification

The body identification tag is attached compartment firewall.

to the engine

The recommended lubricant and engine drivebelt information labels can be found on the underside of the hood (U.S. models only)

The Vehicle Emissions Control Information label (U.S. models only) is located on the hood near the latch hook

0-7

Buying parts Replacement parts are available from sources, which generally fall into one of

many

two categories - authorized dealer parts departments and independent retail auto parts stores. Our advice concerning these is as follows: Retail auto parts stores: Good auto parts stores will stock frequently needed

parts

components which wear out relatively fast, such as clutch components, exhaust systems, brake parts, tune-up parts, etc. These stores often supply new or reconditioned

parts on an exchange basis, which can save a considerable amount of money. Discount auto parts stores are often very good places to buy materials and parts needed for general vehicle maintenance such as oil, grease, filters, spark plugs, belts, touch-up paint,

bulbs, etc.

They also usually

sell

tools

and

general accessories, have convenient hours,

charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home. Authorized dealer parts department: This is the best source for parts which are

unique to the vehicle and not generally available elsewhere (such as major engine parts, transmission parts, trim pieces,

Warranty information:

If

etc.).

the vehicle

is

covered under warranty, be sure that any replacement parts purchased - regardless of the source - do not invalidate the warranty! To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, have engine and chassis numbers still

available and,

if

possible, take the old parts

along for positive identification.

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Maintenance techniques

Most automotive machine shops can perform

removed from an assembly, should always

There are a number of techniques involved in maintenance and repair that will be referred to throughout this manual. Application of these techniques will enable the home mechanic to be more efficient, better organized and capable of performing the various tasks properly, which will ensure that the repair job is thorough and complete.

this task,

as well as other repair procedures, such as the repair of threaded holes that

damaged washers

have been stripped Flat

out.

washers and lockwashers, when

*%

Fasteners Fasteners are nuts, bolts, studs and screws used to hold two or more parts together. There are a few things to keep in mind when working with fasteners. Almost all of them use a locking device of some type,

Grade

1

be replaced exactly as removed. Replace any with new ones. Never use a lockwasher on any soft metal surface (such as aluminum), thin sheet metal or

3* Grade 5

or 2

plastic.

~^T Grade 8

either a lockwasher, locknut, locking tab or

thread adhesive. All threaded fasteners should be clean and straight, with undamaged threads and undamaged corners on the hex head where the wrench fits. Develop the habit of replacing

with

new

all

damaged

nuts and bolts

ones. Special locknuts with nylon or

can only be used once. If they are removed, they lose their locking ability and must be replaced with new ones. Rusted nuts and bolts should be treated with a penetrating fluid to ease removal and prevent breakage. Some mechanics use turpentine in a spout-type oil can, which works

Bolt strength marking (standard/SAE/USS;

fiber inserts

Grade

it

work

for a

few minutes before

loosen the nut or

may have

to

bolt.

If

Identification

HmMIMmW^UiHUMIM^*

Property Class 9

3 Dots

Arabic 9

Badly rusted fasteners off or

available

at tool stores.

it

metric)

trying to

be chiseled or sawed

removed with a special nut breaker,

bly,

Grade

-

Hex Nut

Hex Nut Grade 5

quite well. After applying the rust penetrant, let

Identification

bottom

Hex Nut Grade 8

Hex Nut

6 Dots

in an assemand removed with a spe-

Property Class 10

\£'

Class

Class

Class

10.9

9.8

8.8

Arabic 10

a bolt or stud breaks off

can be

cial tool

drilled

commonly

available for this purpose.

Standard hex nut strength markings

Metric hex nut strength markings

Metric st ud strength n larkings

|

00

1

HAYNESJ

0-8

Maintenance techniques, tools and working

facilities

Fastener sizes For a number of reasons, automobile manufacturers are making wider and wider use of metric fasteners. Therefore, it is important to be able to tell the difference between standard (sometimes called U.S. or SAE) and metric hardware, since they cannot be interchanged. All bolts, whether standard or metric, are sized according to diameter, thread pitch and length. For example, a standard 1/2 -13x1 bolt is 1/2 inch in diameter, has 13 threads per inch and is 1 inch long. An M12 - 1.75 x 25 metric bolt is 12 mm in diameter, has a thread pitch of 1.75

mm

(the distance

3/8 1/2

between

U.S. thread sizes 1/4-20 5/16 5/16

diameter, thread pitch and length, metric and standard bolts can also be distinguished by examining the bolt heads. To begin with, the distance across the flats on a standard bolt head is measured in inches, while the same dimension on a metric bolt is sized in millimeters (the same is true for nuts). As a result, a standard wrench should not be used on a metric bolt and a metric wrench should not be used on a standard bolt. Also, most standard bolts have slashes radiating out from the center of the head to denote the grade or strength of the bolt, which is an indication of the amount of torque that can be applied to it.

The greater the number

14 28 50 80

:

1/4

is

addition to the differences

Nm 9 to 12 19 to 28 38 to 54 68 to 96 109 to 154

to 21 to

40

to 71 to

140

Pipe thread sizes

are not interchangeable. In

Ft-ibs

6 to 9

!

1/8

25 mm long. The two bolts are nearly identical, and easily confused, but they

threads) and

Metric thread sizes M-6 M-8 M-10 M-12 M-14

in

3/8

-

-

18

-

24

16

3/8-24 7/16 7/16 1/2

-

-

14 20

13

7 to 10

5 to 8 12 to 18 22 to 33 25 to 35

1 7 to 24 30 to 44 34 to 47

6 to 9 12 to 18 14 to 20 22 to 32 27 to 38 40 to 55 40 to 60 55 to 80

9 to 12 17 to 24 19 to 27 30 to 43 37 to 51 55 to 74 55 to 81 75 to 1 08

of slashes, the

greater the strength of the bolt. Grades

through 5 are commonly used on automobiles. Metric bolts have a property class (grade) number, rather than a slash, molded into their

heads

to indicate bolt strength. In

this case, the higher the

number, the stronger

the bolt. Property class numbers 8.8, 9.8 and 10.9 are

commonly used on automobiles.

I

OQ-2

HAYNES

|

Strength markings can also be used to distinguish standard hex nuts from metric

hex nuts. Many standard nuts have dots stamped into one side, while metric nuts are marked with a number. The greater the number of dots, or the higher the number, the greater the strength of the nut.

Metric studs are also marked on their to property class (grade).

ends according

Larger studs are numbered (the same as metric bolts), while smaller studs carry a geometric code to denote grade. It should be noted that many fasteners, through 2, have no disespecially Grades tinguishing marks on them. When such is the case, the only way to determine whether it is standard or metric is to measure the thread pitch or

same

compare

it

to a

known

fastener of the

size.

Standard fasteners are often referred to as SAE, as opposed to metric. However, it should be noted that SAE technically refers to a non-metric fine thread fastener only. Coarse thread non-metric fasteners are referred to as USS sizes. Since fasteners of the same size (both standard and metric) may have different

Metric bolt dimensions/grade marks

Standard (SAE and USS) bolt dimensions/grade marks

G

Grade marks

L

Length (in inches) Thread pitch (number of threads per inch)

T

D

(bolt strength)

Nominal diameter

(in

P

Property class (bolt strength)

L

T

Length (in millimeters) Thread pitch (distance between

D

Diameter

threads

in millimeters)

inches)

strength ratings, be sure to reinstall any bolts,

made

studs or nuts removed from your vehicle

specific torque values,

their original locations. Also,

when

in

replacing

a fastener with a new one, make sure that the new one has a strength rating equal to or greater than the original.

Tightening sequences and

procedures Most threaded fasteners should be tightened to a specific torque value (torque the twisting force applied to a threaded

is

com-

ponent such as a nut or bolt). Overtightening the fasten* can weaken it and cause it to break, while undertightening can cause

eventually

come

loose. Bolts,

it

to

screws and

studs, depending on the material they are

of

and

have which are

their thread diameters,

many

of

noted in the Specifications at the beginning each Chapter. Be sure to follow the torque recommendations closely. For fasteners not assigned a specific torque, a general torque value chart is presented here as a guide. These torque values are for dry (unlubricated) fasteners threaded into steel or cast iron (not aluminum). As was previously mentioned, the size and grade of a fastener determine the amount of torque that can safely be applied to it. The figures listed here are approximate for Grade 2 and Grade 3 fasteners. Higher grades can tolerate higher torque values. Fasteners laid out in a pattern, such as cylinder head bolts, oil pan bolts, differential cover bolts, etc., must be loosened or tightof

Maintenance techniques, tools and working

Micrometer set in sequence to avoid warping the component. This sequence will normally be shown in the appropriate Chapter. If a specific pattern is not given, the following procedures can be used to prevent warping. Initially, the bolts or nuts should be assembled finger-tight only. Next, they should be tightened one full turn each, in a criss-cross or diagonal pattern. After each

ened

one has been tightened one full turn, return to the first one and tighten them all one-half turn, following the

same

pattern.

Finally,

them one-quarter turn at a each fastener has been tightened to the proper torque. To loosen and remove the fasteners, the procedure would be reversed. tighten each of

time

until

Component disassembly Component disassembly should be done with care and purpose to help ensure that the parts go back together properly. Always keep track of the sequence in which parts are removed. Make note of special characteristics or marks on parts that can be installed more than one way, such as a grooved thrust washer on a shaft. It is a good idea to lay the disassembled parts out on a clean surface in the order that they were removed. It may also be helpful to make sketches or take instant photos of components before removal. When removing fasteners from a component, keep track of their locations. Sometimes threading a bolt back in a part, or putting the washers and nut back on a stud, can prevent mix-ups later. If nuts and bolts cannot be returned to their original locations, they should be kept in a compartmented box or a series of small boxes. A cupcake or muffin tin is ideal for this purpose, since each cavity can hold the bolts and nuts from a particular area (i.e. oil pan bolts, valve cover bolts, engine mount bolts, etc.). A pan of this type is especially helpful when working on assemblies with very small parts, such as the

carburetor, alternator, valve train or interior

dash and trim pieces. The cavities can be marked with paint or tape to identify the contents.

Whenever wiring looms, harnesses or connectors are separated, it is a good idea to

0-9

facilities

Dial indicator set

two halves with numbered pieces masking tape so they can be easily recon-

identify the

of

nected.

Warning:

If

Throughout any vehicle, gaskets are used to seal the mating surfaces between two parts and keep lubricants, fluids, vacuum an assembly. are coated with a liquid or paste-type gasket sealing compound before assembly. Age, heat and pressure can sometimes cause the two parts to stick together so tightly that they are very difficult to separate. Often, the assembly can be loosened by striking it with a soft-face hammer near the mating surfaces. A regular hammer can be used if a block of wood is placed between the hammer and the part. Do not hammer on cast parts or parts that could be easily damaged. With any particularly stubborn part, always recheck to make sure that every fastener has been removed. Avoid using a screwdriver or bar to pry apart an assembly, as they can easily mar the gasket sealing surfaces of the parts, which must remain smooth. If prying is absolutely necessary, use an old broom handle, but keep in mind that extra clean up will be necessary if the wood splinters. After the parts are separated, the old gasket must be carefully scraped off and the gasket surfaces cleaned. Stubborn gasket material can be soaked with rust penetrant or treated with a special chemical to soften it so it can be easily scraped off. A scraper can be fashioned from a piece of copper tubing by flattening and sharpening one end. Copper is in

Many times these gaskets

recommended because

it

is

usually softer

than the surfaces to be scraped, which reduces the chance of gouging the part. Some gaskets can be removed with a wire brush, but regardless of the method used, the mating surfaces must be left clean and smooth. If for some reason the gasket surface is gouged, then a gasket sealer thick enough to fill scratches will have to be used during reassembly of the components. For most applications, a non-drying (or semi-drying) gasket sealer should be used.

tips

the vehicle

conditioning,

Gasket sealing surfaces

or pressure contained

Hose removal

equipped with

is

air

do not disconnect any of the

A/C hoses without

first having the system depressuhzed by a dealer service department

or a service station.

Hose removal precautions closely paralgasket removal precautions. Avoid scratching or gouging the surface that the hose mates against or the connection may lel

leak. This is especially true for radiator

hoses.

Because

of various chemical reactions, the

rubber

hoses can bond

in

itself

to the metal

To remove a loosen the hose clamps that

spigot that the hose

fits

over.

hose, first secure it to the spigot. Then, with slip-joint pliers, grab the hose at the clamp and rotate it around the spigot. Work it back and forth until it is completely free, then pull it off. Silicone or other lubricants will ease removal if they can be applied between the hose and the outside of the spigot. Apply the same lubricant to the inside of the hose and the outside of the spigot to simplify installation.

As a last resort (and if the hose is to be replaced with a new one anyway), the rubber can be slit with a from the spigot.

knife If

and the hose peeled must be done, be

this

careful that the metal connection

is

not

dam-

aged. If a hose clamp is broken or damaged, do not reuse it. Wire-type clamps usually weaken with age, so it is a good idea to replace them with screw-type clamps when-

ever a hose

is

removed.

7oo/s A

selection of

good

tools

who her own

requirement for anyone tain

and

repair his or

is

a basic

plans to mainvehicle. For the

owner who has few tools, the initial investment might seem high, but when compared to the spiraling costs of professional auto

maintenance and

repair,

it

is

a wise one.

To help the owner decide which tools are needed to perform the tasks detailed in manual, the following tool lists are Maintenance and minor repair, Repair/overhaul and Special. The newcomer to practical mechanics this

offered:

*

0-10

Maintenance techniques, tools and working

Dial caliper

Compression gauge with spark plug

Hand-operated vacuum

pump

facilities

Timing

light

Damper/steering wheel puller

General purpose puller

Valve spring compressor

Valve spring compressor

Piston ring groove cleaning tool

Ring removal/installation tool

hole adapter

Hydraulic

lifter

removal tool

Ridge reamer

Maintenance techniques, tools and working

should

Ring compressor

Cylinder hone

Brake cylinder hone

Clutch plate alignment tool

start

minor repair

off

with the maintenance

Tire

The ered the

tools

in

this

minimum

list

should be consid-

required for performance

maintenance, servicing and minor We recommend the purchase of combination wrenches (box-end and openend combined in one wrench). While more expensive than open end wrenches, they offer the advantages of both types of wrench. of routine

repair work.

Combination wrench set (1/4-inch to 1 inch or 6 to 19 mm) Adjustable wrench, 8 inch Spark plug wrench with rubber insert Spark plug gap adjusting tool

mm

Feeler gauge set

Brake bleeder wrench Standard screwdhver (5/16-inch x 6 inch)

has the capacity of accepting a very wide range of large sockets. Ideally, however, the mechanic should have a 3/8-inch drive set and a 1/2-inch drive set.

pressure gauge

Socket

Fine emery cloth

Extension

Wire brush

Universal joint

set(s)

Reversible ratchet

Battery post

assemble a tool set complete enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the special category when it is felt that the expense is justified by the frequency of use.

tool

-10 inch

Torque wrench (same size dhve as

Oil filter

sockets)

peen hammer

Ball

-

8 ounce

Safety goggles

Soft-face

Jackstands

Standard screwdhver (1/4-inch x 6 inch) Standard screwdhver (stubby -

Drain

Note:

If

(2)

pan

basic tune-ups are going to be part of

routine maintenance,

be necessary

hammer (plastic/rubber)

5/16-inch)

screwdhver (No. 3x8 inch) screwdhver (stubby - No. 2)

to

Phillips

purchase a good quality stroboscopic timing light and combination tachometer/dwell meter. Although they are included in the list of special tools, it is mentioned here because they are absolutely necessary for tuning most

Phillips

vehicles properly.

Cold chisel

it

will

These tools are essential

for

in

in

the maintenance and

We recommend

the 1/2-

inch drive over the 3/8-inch drive. Although

the larger drive

is

vise

-

lineman's

Pliers

-

Pliers

-

needle nose snap-hng (internal and -

external)

1/2-inch

Scraper (made from flattened copper

minor repair tool kit. Included is a comprehensive set of sockets which, though expensive, are invaluable because of their versatility, especially when various extensions and drives are available.

-

Pliers

anyone

plans to perform major repairs and are

addition to those

ghp

Pliers

Schbe

Repair and overhaul tool set who

die set

it

Grease gun Oil can

and cable cleaning wrench Funnel (medium size)

of time, the experienced do-it-yourselfer will

tool kit

Tap and

Phillips

kit,

Maintenance and minor repair

Brake hold-down spring tool

screwdhver (No. 2x6 inch) Combination pliers - 6 inch Hacksaw and assortment of blades

and

which is adequate for the simpler jobs performed on a vehicle. Then, as confidence and experience grow, the owner can tackle more difficult tasks, buying additional tools as they are needed. Eventually the basic kit will be expanded into the repair and overhaul tool set. Over a period tool

0-11

facilities

bulky and more expensive.

tubing)

Centerpunch Pin

punches

(1/16, 1/8. 3/16-inch)

Steel rule/straightedge Allen

wrench set

mm to

-

12 inch

(1/8 to 3/8-inch or

10 mm) A selection of files Wire brush (large) Jackstands (second set) Jack (scissor or hydraulic type)

4

0-12

Maintenance techniques, tools and working

Note: Another tool which is often useful is an drill with a chuck capacity of 3/8-inch and a set of good quality drill bits. electric

Special tools The

tools

in

this

include those which

list

are not used regularly, are expensive to buy,

need to be used in accordance with manufacturer's instructions. Unless

or which their

these tools will be used frequently, it is not very economical to purchase many of them. A consideration would be to split the cost

and use between yourself and a friend or most of these tools can be obtained from a tool rental shop on a tem-

friends. In addition,

porary basis.

This

list

primarily contains only those

and instruments widely available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer for distribution to dealer service departments. Occasionally, references to the manufacturer's special

tools

tools are included

in

the text of this manual.

Generally, an alternative

method

job without the special tool ever,

is

of doing the

offered.

How-

sometimes there is no alternative to Where this is the case, and the tool

their use.

cannot be purchased or borrowed, the work should be turned over to the dealer service department or an automotive repair shop. Valve spring compressor

Piston ring groove cleaning tool

Piston ring compressor Piston ring installation tool

hone

Micrometers and/or dial calipers Hydraulic lifter removal tool Balljoint

cheap ones, especially when buying screwdrivers and sockets, because they won't last very long. The expense involved in replacing cheap tools will eventually be greater than the initial cost of quality tools.

Care and maintenance of tools Good tools are expensive, so it makes sense to treat them with respect. Keep them clean and in usable condition and store them properly when not in use. Always wipe off any dirt, grease or metal chips before putting them away. Never leave tools lying around in the work area. Upon completion of a job, always check closely under the hood for tools that may have been left there so they won't get lost during a test drive.

Some tools, such as screwdrivers, pliwrenches and sockets, can be hung on a panel mounted on the garage or workshop wall, while others should be kept in a tool box or tray. Measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc. must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged by weather or ers,

separator

Universal-type puller

Even with the best of care, though, tools will wear out if used frequently. When a tool is damaged or worn out, replace it. Subsequent jobs will be safer and more enjoyable if you do.

How to repair damaged

Impact screwdriver Dial indicator set

Stroboscopic timing

light (inductive

threads Sometimes, the

pick-up)

Tachometer/dwell meter Universal electrical multimeter Cable hoist Brake spring removal and installation

from overtightening. Stripping threads is an all-too-common occurrence, especially when working with aluminum parts, because aluminum is so soft that it easily strips out. Usually, external or internal threads are

For the do-it-yourselfer

who

ing to get involved in vehicle repair, there are a

available

is

just start-

maintenance

number

when purchasing

of options

stripped, usually

choices: 1)

If

A set can usua substantial savings over the individual tool prices, and they often come with a tool box. As additional tools are of the large retail chain stores. at

cleaned up with a tap or die, they'll still work. Sometimes, however, threads are badly damaged. When this happens, you've got three

maintethe extent of the tools.

nance and minor repair is work to be done, the purchase of individual tools is satisfactory. If, on the other hand, extensive work is planned, it would be a good idea to purchase a modest tool set from one be bought

become

only partially stripped. After they've been

Buying tools

ally

threads of a nut

or bolt hole can

tools

and

internal

Hand operated vacuum/pressure pump

Floor jack

Drill

and

tap the hole to the next suitable

oversize bolt,

2)

Drill

and

install

a larger diameter

screw or stud.

and

tap

the hole

to the original

to

accept a

and tap the plug screw size. You can also

threaded plug, then

Once

the plug

drill

buy a plug already threaded to the original size. Then you simply drill a hole to the specified size, then run the threaded plug into the hole with a bolt and jam

fully

is

seated,

remove the jam nut and bolt. The third method uses a patented thread repair

kit like

These easy-to-use repair

damaged

Heli-Coil or Slimsert.

are designed to threads in straightkits

through holes and blind holes. Both are available as kits which can handle a variety of sizes and thread patterns. Drill the hole, then tap it with the special included tap. Install the Heli-Coil and the hole is back to its original diameter and thread pitch.

Regardless of which method you use, be sure to proceed calmly and carefully. A little impatience or carelessness during one of these relatively simple procedures can ruin your whole day's work and cost you a bundle if you wreck an expensive part.

Working

facilities

Not to be overlooked when discussing tools is the workshop. If anything more than routine maintenance

is to be carried out, work area is essential. It is understood, and appreciated, that many home mechanics do not have a good workshop or garage available, and end up removing an engine or doing major repairs outside. It is recommended, however, that the overhaul or repair be completed under

some

sort of suitable

the cover of a roof.

A

clean,

flat

workbench or table

fortable working height

time.

Cylinder bore gauge

3)

but regardless of where tools are bought, try

When tools are used with care and stored properly, they will last a very long

Cylinder ridge reamer

nut.

to avoid

impact from other tools.

Cylinder compression gauge Cylinder surfacing

needed, add-on sets, individual tools and a larger tool box can be purchased to expand the tool selection. Building a tool set gradually allows the cost of the tools to be spread over a longer period of time and gives the mechanic the freedom to choose only those tools that will actually be used. Tool stores will often be the only source of some of the special tools that are needed,

facilities

of

com-

an absolute necessity. The workbench should be equipped with a vise that has a jaw opening of at least four is

inches.

As mentioned dry storage space

previously, is

some

clean,

also required for tools,

as well as the lubricants, fluids, cleaning solvents, etc. which soon become necessary. Sometimes waste oil and fluids, drained from the engine or cooling system during normal maintenance or repairs, present a disposal probiem. To avoid pouring them on the ground or into a sewage system, pour the

used

fluids into large containers, seal

with caps and take

them

to

them

an authorized

disposal site or recycling center. Plastic jugs,

such as old antifreeze containers, are for this

ideal

purpose.

Always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean rags available. Old towels are for mopping up spills. Many mechanics use rolls of paper towels for most work because they are readily available and disposable. To help keep the area under the vehicle clean, a large cardboard box can be cut open and flattened to protect the garage or shop floor. Whenever working over a painted surface, such as when leaning over a fender to service something under the hood, always cover it with an old blanket or bedspread to protect the finish. Vinyl covered pads, made

excellent

especially for this purpose, are available at

auto parts stores.

0-13

Booster battery (jump) starting Observe the following precautions when using a booster battery to start a vehicle: a)

Dead

Before connecting the booster battery, make sure the ignition switch

is in

battery

the Off position.

b)

Ensure that all switched off.

c)

Make

electrical

equipment

sure that the booster battery

(lights,

is

the

Booster battery

2

1

heater, wipers etc.) are

same

voltage as the dis-

charged battery in the vehicle. d)

e)

being jump started from the battery in another vehicle, the two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other. Make sure the transaxle is in Neutral (manual transaxle) or Park If

the battery

is

(automatic transaxle). f)

Wear eye protection when jump

starting a vehicle.

Connect one jumper lead between the positive (+) terminals of the two batteries. Connect the other jumper lead first to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery, then to a good engine ground on the vehicle to be started (see illustration). Attach the lead at least 18 inches from the battery, if possible. Make sure that the jumper leads will not contact the fan, drivebelt of other moving parts of the engine. Start the engine using the booster battery and allow the engine idle speed to stabilize. Disconnect the jumper leads in the reverse

|00-3HAVNES1

Make the booster battery shown (note that the

order

order of connection.

NOT

is

cable connections in the numerical negative cable of the booster battery attached to the negative terminal of the dead battery)

Jacking and towing Jacking The jack supplied with the vehicle should only be used for raising the vehicle when changing a tire or placing jackstands under the frame. Warning: Never work under the vehicle or start the engine while this jack is being used as the only means of support. The vehicle should be on level ground with the wheels blocked and the transaxle in Park (automatic) or Reverse (manual). On 4WD models, the transfer case must be in the 2H,

4H

or

4L

position (never

in

Neutral).

If

the

wheel is being changed, loosen the lug nuts one-half turn and leave them in place until the wheel is raised off the ground. Place the jack under the side of the vehicle until

in

the indicated position and raise

the jack head groove

fits

it

into the rocker

flange notch. Operate the jack with a slow,

smooth motion

until

the wheel

is

raised off

the ground.

Lower the tighten the nuts

vehicle, (if

The jack should be placed

remove the jack and

loosened or removed)

in

specified

lifting

at the

points

a

criss-cross sequence by turning the wrench clockwise. Replace the hub cap

(if equipped) by placing it in position and using the heel of your hand or a rubber mallet to seat it.

Towing The vehicle can be towed with all four wheels on the ground, provided that speeds do not exceed 35 mph and the distance is not over 50 miles, otherwise transaxle damage can result.

Towing equipment specifically designed purpose should be used and should be attached to the main structural members

for this

of the vehicle, not the

bumper

or brackets.

Safety is a major consideration when towing and all applicable state and local laws

must be obeyed. A safety chain system must

be used for all towing. While towing, the parking brake should be released and the transaxle must be in Neutral. The steering must be unlocked (ignition switch in the Ace position). Remember that power steering and power brakes will not work with the engine off.

0-14

Automotive chemicals and lubricants A number

of automotive chemicals

and

lubricants are available for use during vehicle

maintenance and

repair.

They include a wide

variety of products ranging from cleaning sol-

vents and degreasers to lubricants and protective sprays for rubber, plastic and vinyl.

Cleaners Carburetor cleaner and choke cleaner is a strong solvent for gum, varnish and carbon. Most carburetor cleaners leave a drytype lubricant film which will not harden or gum up. Because of this film it is not recommended for use on electrical components. Brake system cleaner is used to remove grease and brake fluid from the brake system, where clean surfaces are absolutely necessary. It leaves no residue and often eliminates brake squeal caused by contaminants.

Electrical cleaner removes oxidation, corrosion and carbon deposits from electncal contacts, restoring

full

current flow.

It

can also

be used to clean spark plugs, carburetor

jets,

voltage regulators and other parts where an oil-free

surface

is

desired.

Demoisturants remove water and moisture from electrical components such as alternators, voltage regulators, electrical connectors and fuse blocks. They are non-conductive, non-corrosive and non-flammable. Degreasers are heavy-duty solvents used to remove grease from the outside of the engine and from chassis components. They can be sprayed or brushed on and. depending on the type, are rinsed off either with water

Lubricants Motor

oil is

the lubricant formulated for

normally contains a wide variety of additives to prevent corrosion and reduce foaming and wear. Motor oil comes in various weights (viscosity ratings) from to 50. The recommended weight of the oil depends on the season, temperature and the demands on the engine. Light oil is used in cold climates and under light load conditions. Heavy oil is used in hot climates and where high loads are encountered. Multi-viscosity oils

in

engines.

It

are designed to have characteristics of

and are available in a number of weights from 5W-20 to 20W-50. Gear oil is designed to be used in differentials, manual transmissions and other areas where high-temperature lubrication is both

light

to

+190-degrees F). and will not wash off or presence of water. Assembly lube is a special extreme

dilute in the

pressure lubricant, usually containing moly, used to lubricate high-load parts (such as main and rod bearings and cam lobes) for initial

start-up of a

new

engine.

The assembly

being squeezed out or washed away until the engine oiling system begins to function. Silicone lubricants are used to protect rubber, plastic, vinyl and nylon parts. Graphite lubricants are used where oils cannot be used due to contamination problems, such as in locks. The dry graphite will lubricate metal parts while remaining uncontaminated by dirt, water, oil or acids. It is electrically conductive and will not foul electrical contacts in locks such as the ignition switch. Moly penetrants loosen and lubricate frozen, rusted and corroded fasteners and lube

the

lubricates

parts

without

prevent future rusting or freezing.

Heat-sink grease

is

and heavy

oils

required.

Chassis and wheel bearing grease is a heavy grease used where increased loads and friction are encountered, such as for wheel bearings, balljoints. tie-rod ends and

is one of the most widely used gasket compounds. Made from silicone. RTV is air curing, it seals, bonds.

waterproofs, fills surface irregularities, remains flexible, doesn't shrink, is relatively easy to remove, and is used as a supplementary sealer with almost all low and medium temperature gaskets. Anaerobic sealant is much like RTV in that it can be used either to seal gaskets or to form gaskets by itself. It remains flexible, is solvent resistant and fills surface imperfections. The difference between an anaerobic sealant and an RTV-type sealant is in the curing. RTV cures when exposed to air. while an anaerobic sealant cures only in the absence of air. This means that an anaerobic sealant cures only after the assembly of parts, sealing

them together.

Thread and pipe sealant

is

used

for

sealing hydraulic and pneumatic fittings and

vacuum lines. It is usually made from a Teflon compound, and comes in a spray, a paint-on liquid

and lb a wrap-around tape.

universal joints.

High-temperature wheel bearing grease is designed to withstand the extreme

Chemicals Anti-seize

galling, cold welding, rust

ally

made

cants,

in

with copper and graphite lubri-

used

is

exhaust manifold

for

exhaust system and

bolts.

Anaerobic locking compounds are used to keep fasteners from vibrating or working loose and cure only after installation, in the absence of air. Medium strength locking compound is used for small nuts, bolts and screws that may be removed later. Highstrength locking

compound

and studs which

bolts

for large nuts,

is

aren't

removed on a

regular basis. Oil additives range from viscosity index improvers to chemical treatments that claim to reduce internal engine friction. It should be noted that most oil manufacturers caution

against using additives with their

Gas additives perform

oils.

several func-

depending on their chemical makeup. They usually contain solvents that help dissolve gum and varnish that build up on carburetor, fuel injection and intake parts. They also serve to break down carbon deposits that form on the inside surfaces of the combustion chambers. Some additives contain upper cylinder lubricants for valves and piston rings, and others contain chemicals to remove condensation from the gas tank. tions,

Miscellaneous Brake

prevents seizing.

fluid

is

specially

formulated

hydraulic fluid that can withstand the heat

and pressure encountered in brake systems. Care must be taken so this fluid does not come in contact with painted surfaces or plastics. An opened container should always be resealed to prevent contamination by water or dirt. Weatherstrip adhesive is used to bond weatherstripping around doors, windows and trunk

lids.

It

is

sometimes used

to attach trim

pieces.

Undercoating

is a petroleum-based, substance that is designed to protect metal surfaces on the underside of the vehicle from corrosion. It also acts as a sounddeadening agent by insulating the bottom of

tar-like

the vehicle.

Waxes and polishes

are used to help

protect painted and plated surfaces from the

may wax and

weather. Different types of paint

require

the use of different types of

polish.

Some

polishes

utilize

a chemical or abrasive

cleaner to help remove the top layer of oxidized (dull) paint on older vehicles. In recent

many non-wax polishes that contain a wide variety of chemicals such as polymers and silicones have been introduced. These non-wax polishes are usually easier to apply and last longer than conventional waxes and years

polishes.

compound

and corrosion

fasteners. High-temperature ant-seize, usu-

a special electri-

non-conductive grease that is used for mounting electronic ignition modules where it is essential that heat is transferred away from the module. cally

Sealants RTV sealant

or solvent.

use

temperatures encountered by wheel bearings in disc brake equipped vehicles. It usually contains molybdenum disulfide (moly), which is a dry-type lubricant. White grease is a heavy grease for metal-to-metal applications where water is a problem. White grease stays soft under both low and high temperatures (usually from -100

0-15

Conversion factors Length (distance) X 25.4 = Millimetres (mm) X 0.305 = Metres (m) X 1.609 = Kilometres (km)

Inches (in) Feet (ft) Miles

Volume

3

)

)

)

gallons (US gal)

Mass

0.0394

X X X X X X X X

0.061 1.76 0.88

0.833 0.264

= Cubic inches (cu in; in 3 = Imperial pints (Imp pt) = Imperial quarts (Imp qt) = Imperial quarts (Imp qt) = US quarts (US qt) = Imperial gallons (Imp ga = Imperial gallons (Imp ga = US gallons (US gal)

X X

0.035 2.205

= Ounces = Pounds

X X X

0.225

X

14.223

3.281 0.621

Inches (in) Feet (ft) Miles

(capacity)

Cubic inches (cu in; in Imperial pints (Imp pt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) US quarts (US qt) Imperial gallons (Imp ga Imperial gallons (Imp gal

US

= = =

X X X

X X X X X X X X

16.387 0.568 1.137 1.201

0.946 4.546 1.201

3.785

= Cubic centimetres (cc; cm 3 = Litres = Litres = US quarts (US qt) = Litres = Litres

)

(I) (I)

(I) (I)

= US gallons = Litres

(US

gal)

(I)

0.833 1.057 0.22

)

)

)

(weight)

Ounces Pounds

X 28.35 = Grams (g) X 0.454 = Kilograms

(oz) (lb)

(kg)

(oz) (lb)

Force Ounces-force Pounds-force

Newtons

(ozf; oz) (Ibf; lb)

(N)

= Newtons

(N)

=s

Newtons

(N)

0.1

=

Kilograms-force

0.070

=

Kilograms-force per square 2 2 centimetre (kgf/cm kg/cm

X X X

0.278 4.448

X

(kgf; kg)

3.6

9.81

= Ounces-force = Pounds-force = Newtons (N)

(ozf; oz) (Ibf; lb)

Pressure Pounds-force per square inch 2

(psi; lbf/in

;

lb/in

2 )

;

Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in

2 ;

lb/in

2 ;

lb/in

2 ;

lb/in

2

X

(atm)

14.696

=

;

2

X

0.069

=

Bars

X

14.5

=

X

6.895

=

Kilopascals (kPa)

X

0.145

=

(psi; lbf/in

(psi; lbf/in

X

Kilopascals (kPa)

0.01

=

Kilograms-force per square 2 centimetre (kgf/cm kg/cm 2 ;

X

98.1

X

0.868

=

)

;

lb/in

2 )

2 ;

lb/in

2 )

Pounds-force per square inch

2 )

2

Pounds-force per square inch

2 )

lb/in

Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in

)

Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in

Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in

2

Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in

X 0.068 = Atmospheres

=

)

2 ;

lb/in

2 )

Kilopascals (kPa)

)

Torque (moment of force) X

Pounds-force inches

1.152

=

Kilograms-force centimetre cm; kg cm)

= Pounds-force

(kgf

(Ibf in; lb in)

X 0.113

Pounds-force inches

= Newton

inches

(Ibf in; lb in)

X

metres (Nm)

8.85

= Pounds-force

(Ibf in; lb in)

inches

(Ibf in; lb in)

X

Pounds-force inches

0.083

=

Pounds-force feet

(Ibf ft; lb ft)

X

=

12

(Ibf in; lb in)

Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; lb in)

Pounds-force feet

(Ibf ft; lb ft)

X 0.138 =

Kilograms-force metres m; kg m)

X

7.233

=

= Newton metres (Nm) = Kilograms-force metres

X X

0.738 9.804

= Pounds-force feet (Ibf = Newton metres (Nm)

Pounds-force feet

(Ibf ft; lb ft)

(kgf

Pounds-force feet (Ibf Newton metres (Nm)

ft;

lb ft)

X 1.356 X 0.102

(kgf

ft;

lb ft)

m; kg m)

Vacuum Inches mercury Inches mercury

(in. (in.

Hg) Hg)

X X

3.377

= Kilopascals (kPa) = Millimeters mercury (mm Hg)

X X

0.2961

25.4

0.0394

= Inches mercury = Inches mercury

X

745.7

= Watts

X

0.0013

=

X

1.609

=

Kilometres per hour (km/hr; kph)

X

0.621

=

Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

Kilometres per Kilometres per

X X

2.825 2.352

= =

Miles per gallon, Imperial (mpg) Miles per gallon, US (mpg)

Power Horsepower

(hp)

(W)

Horsepower

(hp)

Velocity (speed) Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

Fuel consumption* Miles per gallon. Imperial (mpg) Miles per gallon, US (mpg)

X 0.354 X 0.425

litre

(km/I)

litre

(km/I)

Temperature Degrees Fahrenheit *lt Is

=

(°C x 1.8) + 32

Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; °C)

common practice to convert from mites per gallon (mpg) to litres/ 100 mpg (imperial) x 1/100 km = 282 and mpg (US) x 1/100 km = 235

where

kilometres

(1/1

00 km),

=

(°F

-

32) x 0.56

0-16

Safety

how

Regardless of

may be about

first!

getting

and when working under a vehicle. DO keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving parts.

enthusiastic you

on with the job

etc.

at

hand, take the time to ensure that your safety

A moment's

not jeopardized.

is

lack of

can result in an accident, as can failure to observe certain simple safety precautions. The possibility of an accident will always exist, and the following points should not be considered a comprehensive list of all attention

dangers. Rather, they are intended to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safety conscious approach to

cany out on your

Essential DON'T

work you

all

vehicle.

DO make sure that any hoist used has a safe working load rating adequate for the job. DO get someone to check on you when working alone on a vehicle. DO

work in a logical sequence and sure that everything is correctly assem-

carry out

make

bled and tightened.

DO keep chemicals and fluids tightly capped and out of the reach of children and pets.

DO remember

DOs and DONTs

on any

points.

other products

attempt to loosen extremely tight fasteners (i.e. wheel lug nuts) while the vehicle is

on a jack

-

it

may

fall.

DON'T start the engine without first making sure that the transmission is in Neutral (or Park where applicable) and the parking brake set.

- let

it

cool or cover

it

and release the pressure gradually. DON'T attempt to drain the engine oil until you are sure it has cooled to the point that it not bum you. DON'T touch any

will

haust system

until

part of the engine or exit

has cooled

sufficiently to

avoid bums.

DON'T

siphon toxic liquids such as gasoline, and brake fluid by mouth, or allow

antifreeze

to remain

DON'T

on your

skin.

inhale brake lining dust

is

it

poten-

hazardous (see Asbestos below).

DON'T

allow spilled -

floor

DON'T use

wipe loose

may

it

oil

or grease to remain

up before someone

fitting

wrenches

slips

or other

and cause injury. DON'T push on wrenches when loosening or tightening nuts or bolts. Always try to pull the wrench toward you. If the situation calls for pushing the wrench away, push with an open hand to avoid scraped knuckles if the wrench tools which

should

DON'T

slip

get

to

someone

lift

a heavy

component

njsh or take unsafe shortcuts to finish

such as brake

linings,

brake

torque converters, gascontain asbestos. Extreme

linings,

may

tain asbestos.

Remember

at

all

times that gasoline

is

smoke or have any open flame around when working on a

highly flammable. Never

kind of

vehicle. But the risk

does not end

there.

A

spark caused by an electrical short circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, or

even by static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite gasoline vapors, which in a confined space are highly explosive. Do not, under any circumstances, use gasoline for cleaning parts. Use an .ed safat) ;: rani

allow children or animals

in

or around it.

wear eye protection when using power drill, sander. bench grinder.

tools such as a

an enclosed

carbon monoxide, which is extremely poisonous. If you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air. or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the work area. If you are fortunate enough to have the use of an inspection pit. never drain or pour gasoline and never run the engine while the vehicle is over the pit. The fumes, being heavier than air, will concentrate in the pit tain

with possibly lethal results.

Never create a spark or allow a bare bulb near a battery. They normally give a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which

mended

that a fire extinguisher suitable for

use on fuel and electncal fires be kept handy in the garage or workshop at all times. Never try to

extinguish a fuel or electrical

off is

highly explosive.

Always disconnect the battery ground (-) cable at the battery before working on the fuel or electncal systems. If possible, loosen the filler caps or cover when charging the battery from an external source (this does not apply to sealed or maintenance-free batteries). Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery

may

burst.

Take care when adding water to a non maintenance-free battery and when carrying a battery. The electrolyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be allowed to contact clothing or skin. Always wear eye protection when cleanbattery to prevent the from entenng your eyes. deposits ing

the

Household current

fire

using an electric power tool, etc.. which operates on household current, always make sure that the tool is correctly connected to its plug and that, where necessary, it is properly inspection

light,

grounded. Do not use such items conditions and, again,

in

damp

not create a spark

in

the vicinity of fuel

or fuel vapor.

with

Secondary

Fumes

voltage

quickly cause unconsciousness and even inhaled to any extent. Gasoline vapor

category, as do the vapors from cleaning solvents. Any draining or pouring of%uch volatile fluids should be done

falls into this

in

do

or apply excessive heat

water.

if

caustic

When

Always disconnect the battery ground (-) cable at the battery before working on any part of the fuel system or electrical system. Never risk spilling fuel on a hot engine or exhaust component. It is strongly recom-

some

the vehicle while you are working on

DO

-

-

care must be taken to avoid inhalation of dust from such products, since it is hazardous to health. If in doubt, assume that they do con-

death

to help you.

in

The battery

Certain fumes are highly toxic and can

a job.

DON'T

kets, etc.

slip.

DON'T attempt -

bands, clutch

ice: -

Never run the engine

space, such as a garage. Exhaust fumes con-

doubt

Certain friction, insulating, sealing, and

with a

cloth

Never use materials from unmarked

light

the radiator cap from a hot

cooling system

alone

in

Fire

DON'T remove

on the on it.

If

rely

DON'T

tially

and others.

point, get professional advice.

Asbestos

them

that your vehicle's safety

affects that of yourself

on a jack when working under the vehicle. Always use approved jackstands to support the weight of the vehicle and place them under the recommended lift or support

is

periodically

carefully.

containers.

a well ventilated area. When using cleaning fluids and sol-

vents, read the instructions on the container

ignition

system

A

severe electric shock can result from touching certain parts of the ignition system (such as the spark plug wires) when the engine is running or being cranked, particularly is

if

components are damp

defective.

tion

In

or the insulation

the case of an electronic igni-

system, the secondary system voltage higher and could prove fatal.

much

is

0-17

Troubleshooting Contents

Symptom

Section

Symptom

Section

Squeal or rumble with clutch

Engine Engine Engine Engine Engine Engine Engine Engine Engine Engine Engine Engine Engine

diesels (continues to run) after switching off

hard to start hard to start lacks

when when

hot

5

power

lopes while idling or idles erratically

misses at idle speed misses throughout driving speed range rotates but

will

1

4

cold

not start

12 8 9 10 2 11

stalls

starts but stops immediately

not rotate

when attempting

7 to start

1

Pinging or knocking engine sounds during acceleration or uphill Starter Starter

engaged

(pedal released)

13

backfires

will

fully

motor noisy or excessively rough in engagement motor operates without rotating engine

14 6 3

Manual transaxle Difficulty in engaging gears Noisy Noisy

in all in

gears

Neutral with engine running

Noisy in one particular gear Oil leakage Slips out of high gear

30 37 34 33 35 38 36

Automatic transaxle Fluid leakage

General shift mechanism problems Transaxle slips, shifts rough, is noisy or has no drive in forward or reverse gears Transaxle will not downshift with accelerator pedal pressed to the floor

42 39 41

40

Driveaxles

Engine electrical system Battery

will

Clicking noise

not hold a charge

Ignition light fails to

come on when key

Ignition light fails to

go out

is

turned on

16 18 17

in

turns

Knock or clunk when accelerating from a coast Shudder or vibration during acceleration

43 44 45

Brakes Fuel system Excessive fuel consumption Fuel leakage and/or fuel odor

19 20

Cooling system Coolant loss

25 23 24 22

External coolant leakage Internal coolant

leakage

Overcooling Overheating

Poor coolant

28 32

Excessive play in steering Excessive tire wear (not specific to one area) Excessive tire wear on inside edge Excessive tire wear on outside edge

during braking

Clutch slips (engine speed increases with no increase in

vehicle speed)

when disengaged

pressed to the floor - shift lever does not move freely in and out of Reverse) Grabbing (chattering) as clutch is engaged Squeal or rumble with clutch fully disengaged (pedal depressed) Fails to release (pedal

27 29 31

50 53 49 51

48 52 47

Rear axle Noise Suspension and steering systems Excessive pitching and/or rolling around corners or

Clutch

Clutch pedal stays on floor

Vehicle pulls to one side during braking

26

21 circulation

Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed Brake pedal pulsates during brake application Excessive brake pedal travel Excessive effort required to stop vehicle Noise (high-pitched squeal without the brakes applied) Pedal travels to the floor with little resistance

Excessively

stiff

steering

Lack of power assistance Shimmy, shake or vibration Tire tread worn in one place Vehicle pulls to one side

46

56 58 60 62 61

57 59 55 63 54

0-18

Troubleshooting

Engine Engine will not rotate when attempting to start

1

to start engine, then set ignition timing as

the flow of fuel from the

soon as possible (Chapter 1). Broken, loose or disconnected wires 12

all,

the ignition coil or faulty coil (Chapter

3

rotating engine

If

the cable

connections are clean and tight on the battery posts, turn the key to the On position and switch on the headlights and/or windshield wipers. tery

is

they

fail

little

If

or

none

to function, the bat-

1

pinion

Starter

starter (Chapter 5)

2

sticking.

and

at

the lines and/or

(Chapter

4).

leak at the gasket surfaces of

Make

in good condition. system malfunction

positioned properly and

4

Battery discharged or faulty.

pump

in

sure that all mounting bolts/nuts are tightened securely and that all vacuum hoses connected to the carburetor and manifold are

motor operates without

Starter

sion as necessary.

If

Vacuum

line.

blockage

replace the fuel

3

5).

for

the intake manifold and/or carburetor.

Battery terminal connections loose or 1 corroded. Check the cable terminals at the battery. Tighten the cable or remove corro2

at

check

Remove

the

Fuel

(Chapter

injection 4).

inspect.

Starter pinion or flywheel teeth

worn or

broken. Remove engine and inspect.

the cover at the rear of the

8

Engine lopes while

idling or idles

erratically

discharged.

Automatic transmission not completely engaged in Park or clutch not completely depressed. 4 Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit. Inspect all wiring and con3

nectors at the battery, starter solenoid and ignition switch.

5

Starter

motor pinion jammed

in

flywheel

manual transmission, place gear and rock the vehicle to manually turn the engine. Remove starter and inspect pinion and flywheel at earliest convering

gear.

If

transmission

in

nience.

6

Starter solenoid faulty (Chapter

7

Starter

8

motor

5).

faulty (Chapter 5).

Ignition switch faulty

(Chapter

4

Engine hard to start when cold

1

Battery discharged or low.

described 2

Section

in

Choke

Check as

1

control inoperative or out of

adjustment (Chapter 4). Carburetor flooded (see Section 2). 3 Fuel supply not reaching the carburetor 4 (see Section 2). Carburetor/fuel injection system in need 5 of overhaul (Chapter 4). 6 Distributor rotor carbon tracked and/or mechanical advance mechanism rusted (Chapter

12).

Vacuum

1

7

5).

Fuel

(Chapter

fold for tightness.

Engine rotates but

1

Fuel tank empty.

also detect leaks.

will

system

malfunction

4).

2

Battery

discharged

(engine

rotates

Check the operation of electrical components as described in previous Sec-

slowly).

tion.

3

1

3

Battery terminal connections loose or

corroded. See previous Section.

move the choke plate back Have an assistant depress the

if

necessary).

accelerator

5

4

not delivering sufficient fuel 7).

Carburetor out of adjustment (Chap-

5

ter 4).

Fuel

injection

system

malfunction

4).

Choke

sticking

in

the closed position

1).

Carburetor flooded (see Section 2). filter clogged (Chapter 1 ). Fuel not reaching the carburetor (see

Air

2).

Fuel

injection

system

malfunction

Leaking head gasket.

If

this

is

sus-

checked. Timing chain and/or gears worn (Chap8 ter 2).

Camshaft lobes worn (Chapter 2). system malfunction

9

Fuel injection 10 (Chapter 4).

4).

Engine misses at

9

motor noisy or excessively rough in engagement

idle

speed

Starter

Spark plugs worn or not gapped prop-

1

erly

Pinion or flywheel gear teeth worn or broken. Remove the cover at the rear of the 1

engine 2

pump

Fuel

PCV

pected, take the vehicle to a repair shop or dealer where the engine can be pressure

(Chapter

6

Check the carburetor

7

Section

4 Carburetor flooded and/or fuel level in carburetor incorrect. This will usually be accompanied by a strong fuel odor from under the hood. Wait a few minutes, depress the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor and attempt to start the engine. Choke control inoperative (Chapter 1). 5 6 Fuel not reaching carburetor. With ignition switch in Off position, open hood, remove the top plate of air cleaner assembly and observe the top of the carburetor (manually

4

vacuum

Engine hard to start when hot

(Chapter 2

all

and intake manifold gasket surfaces. Leaking EGR valve or plugged 2 valve (see Chapters 1 and 6). Air filter clogged (Chapter 1). 3

(Chapter

5

sure that

to the carburetor (see Section

injection

not start

will

Make

mounting and intake mani-

hoses are connected and in good condition. Use a stethoscope or a length of fuel hose held against your ear to listen for vacuum leaks while the engine is running. A hissing sound will be heard. A soapy water solution

6

2

Check

leakage.

bolts/nuts at the carburetor

(if

3 ter

so equipped) and inspect.

Starter

2

motor mounting bolts loose or

4

(Chapter 1). Faulty spark plug wires (Chapter 1). Choke not operating properly (Chap-

1).

Fuel

(Chapter

missing.

injection

system

malfunction

4).

pedal and check that fuel spurts into the carburetor. ter

7

1),

If

not,

fuel lines

check the fuel filter (Chapand fuel pump (Chapter 4).

Fuel injector or fuel

injected vehicles) (Chapter

8

components (Chapter

Worn,

damage

gapped spark

1).

Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit (see previous Section). 1 Distributor loose, causing ignition timing to change. Turn the distributor as necessary

10

10

Engine starts but stops immediately

Engine misses throughout driving speed range

to,

5).

faulty or incorrectly

plugs (Chapter

7

faulty (fuel

4).

Excessive moisture on, or

ignition

9

pump

1

Loose or

faulty electrical

connections

at

distributor, coil or alternator.

2

Insufficient fuel reaching the carburetor.

Disconnect the fuel line at the carburetor and remove the filter (Chapter 1). Place a container under the disconnected fuel line. Turn the engine over with the starter and observe

1 Fuel filter clogged and/or impurities in the fuel system (Chapter 1). Also check fuel output at the carburetor or fuel injection (see

Section 2

7).

Faulty or incorrectly

gapped spark plugs

(Chapter 1). Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter 3

1).

0-19

Troubleshooting Check

cracked distributor cap. disconnected distributor wires and damaged 4

distributor

2

for

components (Chapter

13

3

Leaking spark plug wires (Chapter 1). Faulty emissions system components (Chapter 6). 7 Low or uneven cylinder compression pressures. Remove spark plugs and test

Emissions system not functioning prop-

1

6

erly

compression with gauge (Chapter 1). Weak or faulty ignition system (Chap8

(Chapter

6).

2

Ignition timing incorrect

3

Faulty

secondary

and

Vacuum

leaks at carburetor, fuel injec-

tion unit, intake manifold or

(see Section

vacuum hoses

Carburetor in need of adjustment or worn excessively (Chapter 4). 5

system

injection Fuel 10 (Chapter 4).

malfunction

Vacuum leak at carburetor, intake manivacuum hoses. Check as described in

Section 6

Fuel

Idle

Fuel

3

Choke improperly adjusted

(Chapter

6

gapped spark plugs Also check spark plug wires

Faulty or incorrectly 1).

(Chapter

1).

8

Vacuum

leak

the

at

carburetor/fuel

Check as described

in

vacuum

Section

8.

Valve clearances incorrectly set (ChapFuel

(Chapter

injection

system

malfunction

4).

1

2).

system

malfunction

Ignition light fails to

1

Fault

(Chapter

18

go out

alternator or charging circuit

in

5).

Alternator drivebelt defective or not 1).

Ignition light fails to

when key

of the proper

2

3

octane in

tank with fuel

is

come on

turned on

need

(Chapter

Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter

Excessive play time,

of adjustment (Chap-

check

in

in

engine compartment. Also check damage (Chapter 1).

plugs and wires for

Worn

or

damaged

nents (Chapter

distributor

Alternator faulty (Chapter

3

Fault

in

the printed

5).

circuit,

dash wiring

5).

19

Faulty emissions system (Chapter

7

Fuel

injection

system

malfunction 1

leak.

for

worn

Check as described

in

excessively worn (Chapter

4).

5

Faulty coil (Chapter

6

Brakes binding (Chapter 1). Automatic transaxle fluid level incorrect

5).

1).

8

Clutch slipping (Chapter

9

Fuel

8).

clogged and/or impurities

the fuel system (Chapter

ter

2

8.

Engine diesels (continues to run) after switching off

rotor, faulty dis-

1 and 5). gapped spark plugs

in

1

Idle

2

Idle

Excessive fuel consumption

6).

4).

Vacuum

Fuel system

compo-

6

15

1).

(Chapter 1). 4 Carburetor not adjusted properly or

speed too high (Chapter 1). system malfunction (Chapter

4).

3 Ignition timing incorrectly adjusted (Chapter 1). 4 Thermo-controlled air cleaner heat valve not operating properly (Chapter 6). Excessive engine operating tempera5 ture. Probable causes of this are malfunctioning thermostat, clogged radiator, faulty water pump (Chapter 3).

Dirty or

clogged

air filter

element (Chap-

1).

Incorrectly set ignition timing (Chap1).

3 Choke sticking or improperly adjusted (Chapter 1). 4 Emissions system not functioning properly (not all vehicles, see Chapter 6). Carburetor idle speed and/or mixture 5 not adjusted properly (Chapter 1). Carburetor internal parts excessively 6 worn or damaged (Chapter 4). 7 Low tire pressure or incorrect tire size (Chapter 1). injection system malfunction 8 Fuel (Chapter

4).

20

Fuel leakage and/or fuel odor

1

Leak

1).

Emissions control system not functioning properly (Chapter 6). 11 Use of substandard fuel. Fill tank with proper octane fuel. 10

which will detect leaking valves and/or blown head gasket (Chapter 1). 13 Fuel injection system malfunction

in

a fuel feed or vent line (Chap-

ter 4).

2

Engine electrical system

12 Low or uneven cylinder compression pressures. Test with compression tester,

4).

bulb defective (Chap-

Improper spark plugs. Check plug type

located

distributor shaft. At the

Faulty or incorrectly

filter

light

or bulb holder (Chapter 12).

tributor cap. wires, etc. (Chapters

(Chapter

Warning

2 1).

ter 4).

4

1

ter^).

rating.

Ignition timing incorrect

Carburetor

Fill

Engine lacks power

(Chapter

17

ter

1

7

Battery defective internally.

2

4).

Incorrect grade of fuel.

(Chapter

2

3

vehicle wiring causing a contin-

battery.

Pinging or knocking engine

Section

same

in

on

7

uphill

8

12

injection

sounds during acceleration or

5

ter 2).

9

Short

the

against Emissions Control Information label

injection unit, intake manifold or

hoses.

14

or sticking

6).

(Chapter 7

6

in

5).

1).

4 Distributor components damp or damaged (Chapter 5). 5 Faulty emissions system components (Chapter

Loose, broken or faulty wiring

charging circuit (Chapter

properly adjusted (Chapter

speed incorrect (Chapter 1). filter clogged and/or water and impurities in the fuel system (Chapter 1). 1

2

5

Valve clearances incorrectly set. and/or

(Chapter

stalls

Battery terminals loose or corroded

8.

valves sticking (Chapter

Engine

1).

(Chapter 1). 4 Alternator not charging properly (Chap-

ual drain

5).

fold or

8).

low or battery dis-

level

ter 5).

1).

system

4

ter 5).

11

(Chapter

ignition

(cracked spark plug insulator, faulty plug wires, distributor cap and/or rotor) (Chapters 1

Electrolyte

charged (Chapter

1).

5

9

Engine backfires

3

16

Battery

will

not hold a charge

Tank

overfilled.

Fill

only to automatic

shut-off.

ter

4

Emissions system

filter

clogged (Chap-

1).

Vapor leaks from system

lines

(Chap-

ter 4). 1

Alternator drivebelt defective or not

adjusted properly (Chapter

1).

5

Carburetor internal parts excessively of adjustment (Chapter 4).

worn or out

0-20

Troubleshooting

Cooling system 21

Overheating

1

Insufficient coolant in

ter

system (Chap-

1).

2

Water pump drivebelt defective or not

adjusted properly (Chapter

1).

3

Radiator core blocked or radiator

dirty

and restricted (Chapter 3). Thermostat faulty (Chapter 3). Fan blades broken or cracked (Chap-

4 5

hose closed with your hand while the engine is idling, then let it loose. You should feel the surge of coolant if the pump is working properly (Chapter 1). Restriction in cooling system. Drain, 2 flush and refill the system (Chapter 1). If necessary, remove the radiator (Chapter 3) and have it reverse flushed. Water pump drivebelt defective or not 3 adjusted properly (Chapter 1). Thermostat sticking (Chapter 3). 4 to pinch the top radiator

grille

sion bearing retainer.

cate before reinstallation.

3

Radiator cap not maintaining proper pressure. Have cap pressure tested by gas station or repair shop. 7 Ignition timing incorrect (Chapter 1).

22

Overcooling

1

Thermostat faulty (Chapter 3). Inaccurate temperature gauge (Chap-

31

2 (or

Clutch 27

Fails to release (pedal pressed to the floor - shift lever does not move freely in and out of Reverse)

32

ter^)

External coolant leakage

1

Deteriorated or

1

Improper linkage free play adjustment Clutch fork off

3

Clutch plate warped or

Leakage

clamps. Replace hoses and/or tighten clamps at hose connections (Chapter 1). Water pump seals defective. If this is the 2 case, water will drip from the weep hole in the water pump body (Chapter 1). 3 Leakage from radiator core or header tank. This will require the radiator to be professionally repaired (see Chapter 3 for removal procedures). 4 Engine drain plugs or water jacket core plugs leaking (see Chapter 2).

6

Malfunction of clutch master cylinder or

Internal coolant leakage

Note: Internal coolant leaks can usually be detected by examining the oil. Check the dipstick and inside of the camshaft cover for water deposits and an oil consistency like that of a milkshake. 1 Leaking cylinder head gasket. Have the cooling system pressure tested. 2 Cracked cylinder bore or cylinder head. Dismantle engine and inspect (Chapter 2).

when

Bind

linkage

in

or

release

bearing.

compo-

nents as necessary.

Manual transaxle

clutch release cylinder.

33 28

Clutch slips (engine speed increases with no increase vehicle speed)

Noisy in neutral with engine running

in

2

Excessive gear backlash. Damaged main drive gear bearing.

3

Worn

34

Noisy

1

Any

?

Insufficient lubricant (see

1

Linkage out of adjustment (Chapter 8). Clutch plate oil soaked or lining worn. 2 Remove clutch (Chapter 8) and inspect. Clutch plate not seated. It may take 30 3 or 40 normal starts for a new one to seat. 4 Weak or damaged diaphragm spring.

bearings.

1

cedures

29

Grabbing (chattering) as clutch

in all

of the

gears

above causes, and/or:

Chapter

in

checking pro-

1).

is

engaged 1

Oil

(Chapter

on clutch plate lining. Remove 8) and inspect. Correct any leakage

particular gear

Noisy

1

Worn, damaged or chipped gear teeth

in

for that particular gear.

source.

2

one

35

Worn

or

loose

engine or transaxle

mounts. These units move is released. Inspect mounts and bolts. Worn splines on clutch plate hub. 3 Remove clutch components (Chapter 8) and

when

2

Worn

or

damaged

synchronizer for that

particular gear.

clutch

Coolant loss Too much coolant in system (Chapter 1). Coolant boiling away due to overheating

(see Section 16).

3

Internal or external leakage (see

tions

23 and

Faulty radiator cap.

Warped pressure plate or flywheel. Remove clutch components and inspect.

30

Squeal or rumble with clutch

fully

engaged (pedal released) 1

1

Improper adjustment;

(Chapter

pump. A quick

test

is

1

Transaxle

(Chapter 7). 2 Improperly (Chapter

sure tested.

Poor coolant circulation

Slips out of high gear

4

Sec-

Have the cap pres-

36

inspect.

24).

Inoperative water

Clutch pedal stays on floor

of clutch fluid.

slightly

1

fingers) (Chapter 8).

damaged (Chap-

Insufficient clutch fluid.

26

or broken pressure plate springs

ter 8).

5

damaged hoses

Worn

diaphragm

Linkage springs being over-extended. Adjust linkage for proper free play.

ball stud.

4

4

Worn, defective or broken release bear-

2

8).

2

or loose

2

Squeal or rumble with clutch fully disengaged (pedal depressed)

Inspect linkage or remove clutch (Chapter

23

1

linkage return spring. Replace the

disengaged 1

25

Weak

spring.

1

6

24

compo-

clutch

ing (Chapter 8).

ter 3).

2

Remove

(Chapter 8) and check bearing. Remove any burrs or nicks, clean and relubrinents

2

no free

play

1).

Release bearing binding on transmis-

loose

on

installed

clutch

housing

engine

3

Shift

4

Worn

5

Dirt

rods not working freely (Chapter

between transaxle case and engine

Worn

(Chapter

7).

shift fork.

or misalignment of transaxle (Chapter

6

mount

2).

7).

7).

or improperly adjusted linkage

0-21

Troubleshooting Tire noise. Inspect tires

2

37

Difficulty in

engaging gears

42

Fluid leakage

1

Automatic transmission

pressures (Chapter

38

Oil

leakage

1

Excessive

amount 1

of

lubricant

for correct

in

checking

with engine air

Rear oil seal or speedometer need of replacement (Chapter 7). 2

oil

seal

oil,

which can easily be blown by

To pinpoint a leak, first remove all builtup dirt and grime from around the transaxle. Degreasing agents and/or steam cleaning will

Brakes

achieve

Note: Before assuming that a brake problem exists, make sure that the tires are in good condition and inflated properly (see Chapter 1), that the front end alignment is correct and that the vehicle is not loaded with weight

With the underside clean, drive

this.

is difficult

for the

air

flow

will

not

blow the leak far from its source. Raise the vehicle and determine where the leak is com-

Common

Pan: Tighten mounting bolts and/or replace pan gasket as necessary (see Chapters 1 and 7). b) Filler pipe: Replace the rubber seal where pipe enters transaxle case. c) Transaxle oil lines: Tighten connectors where lines enter transaxle case and/or replace d)

home mechanic

diagnose and service this component. For problems other than the following, the vehicle should be taken to a dealer or reputable mechanic. to properly

e)

in

an unequal manner.

areas of leakage are:

a)

in

Note: Due to the complexity of the automatic it

10).

2

Automatic transaxle transaxle,

damaged (Chapter

flow to the transaxle.

ing from.

procedures). Drain lubricant as required.

a deep

red color. Fluid leaks should not be confused

the vehicle at low speeds so

transaxle (see Chapter

fluid is

tire

Rear wheel bearings loose, worn or

3

Clutch not releasing completely (see 1 clutch adjustment in Chapter 8). 2 Loose, damaged or out-of-adjustment shift linkage. Make a thorough inspection, replacing parts as necessary (Chapter 7).

and check

1).

lines.

Vent pipe: Transaxle overfilled and/or water in fluid (see checking procedures, Chapter 1). Speedometer connector: Replace the O-hng where speedometer cable enters transaxle case (Chapter 7).

47

Vehicle pulls to one side during braking

1

Defective,

disc

damaged or oil contaminated brake pads on one side. Inspect as

described in Chapter 9. Excessive wear of brake pad material or 2 disc on one side. Inspect and correct as necessary.

Loose or disconnected front suspension components. Inspect and tighten all bolts to 3

the specified torque (Chapter 10).

Defective caliper assembly. Remove and inspect for stuck piston or other damage (Chapter 9).

4

caliper

39

General

shift

mechanism

problems Driveaxles Chapter 7 deals with checking and adjusting the shift linkage on automatic transaxles. Common problems which may be

48

1

43

attributed to poorly adjusted linkage are:

Engine starting

in

gears other than Park

or Neutral.

Clicking noise

in

turns

or damaged outboard joint. Check damaged seals. Repair as neces-

Worn for cut or

sary (Chapter

8).

Indicator on shifter pointing to a gear

other than the one actually being used. Vehicle

2

40

moves when

in Park.

Disc brake pads worn out. The noise comes from the wear sensor rubbing against the disc (does not apply to all vehicles). Replace pads with new ones immediately (Chapter

44

Refer to Chapter 7 to adjust the linkage.

Transaxle will not downshift with accelerator pedal pressed to the

Knock

or clunk

accelerating from a coast

Worn for cut or

damaged inboard joint. Check damaged seals. Repair as neces-

49

Excessive brake pedal travel

1

Partial

or

sary (Chapter

entire

8).

45

down

- fluid level.

Before taking the vehicle to a repair shop, check the level and condition of the fluid as described in Chapter 1. Correct fluid level as necessary or change the fluid if needed. If the problem persists, have a professional diagnose the probable cause.

vibration during

Insufficient

Check (Chapter tem

if

fluid 1),

add

in

master cylinder. and bleed sys-

fluid

necessary (Chapter

9).

Rear brakes not adjusting properly. Make a series of starts and stops while the vehicle is in Reverse. If this does not correct the situation, remove drums and inspect self3

1 Excessive joint angle. Have checked and correct as necessary (Chapter 8). Worn or damaged inboard or outboard 2

joints.

Repair or replace as necessary (Chap-

adjusters (Chapter

9).

ter 8).

3

There are many probable causes for the above problems, but the home mechanic should be concerned with only one possibility

Shudder or

acceleration

switch cable to enable the transaxle to downshift properly.

Transaxle slips, shifts rough, is noisy or has no drive in forward or reverse gears

brake system failure. Inspect system (Chapter 9) and correct as

required.

2

41

9).

when

floor

Chapter 7 deals with adjusting the kick-

Noise (high-pitched squeal without the brakes applied)

Sticking inboard joint assembly. Correct

or replace as necessary (Chapter

8).

Rear axle

50

1

Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed Air in hydraulic lines. Bleed the brake

system (Chapter

2

46

Noise

1

Road

available.

noise.

9).

all system hoses and lines. Replace parts as necessary. 3 Master cylinder mounting bolts/nuts

2

No

corrective procedures

Faulty flexible hoses. Inspect

loose.

4

Master cylinder defective (Chapter

9).

0-22

Troubleshooting ing

51

Excessive effort required to stop

4

vehicle

5

components (Chapter 10). Front end in need of alignment.

adjusted properly (Chapter

Front brakes dragging. Inspect brakes

as described

in

Chapter

properly (Chapter

worn

pads. Inspect and replace if necessary (Chapter 9). One or more caliper pistons or wheel 3 cylinders seized or sticking. Inspect and rebuild as required (Chapter 9). 4 Brake linings or pads contaminated with oil or grease. Inspect and replace as required (Chapter 9). 5 New pads or shoes installed and not yet seated. It will take a while for the new material

to seat against the

linings

drum

or

55

Shimmy, shake or

1

Tire or

round. 2

(Chapter

1

damaged

or

Excessive pitching and/or

rolling

sion components. Inspect as described

Chapter

Incorrect

2

Tires out of balance.

1

in

Wheel bearings not adjusted properly or need of replacement (Chapter 1).

2

Caliper not sliding

properly due to

improper installation or obstructions. Remove and inspect (Chapter 9). 3 Rotor defective. Remove the rotor (Chapter 9) and check for excessive lateral runout and parallelism. Have the rotor resurfaced or replace

it

with a

new

1).

professionally

as necessary. 4 Suspension or steering components excessively worn (Chapter 10).

Excessive

61

Excessively

stiff

Lack

of fluid

steering

1).

Incorrect

pressures (Chapter

3

Lack

tire

fluid

pressures incorrect (Chapter 1). Excessive speed in turns. Front end alignment incorrect (excessive

ter 10).

Excessive

62

tire

wear on

inside

power

steering

pressures incorrect (Chapter

1

Inflation

2

Front end alignment incorrect (toe-out).

Have in

professionally aligned.

edge

assistance.

Excessive play

Have

Suspension arm bent or twisted (Chap-

1 ).

of lubrication at steering joints

(Chapter 1). 4 Front end out of alignment. 5 See also section titled Lack of

wear on outside

Inflation

toe-in).

power steering

in

tire

edge 1

2

3

1).

professionally aligned.

Loose or damaged steering compo-

nents (Chapter

one.

10).

Loose

front wheel bearings (Chapter 1). Excessive wear in suspension or steering components (Chapter 10). Steering gearbox out of adjustment 3 (Chapter 10). 1

Have

in

10.

reservoir (Chapter

58

tire

Wheels damaged. Inspect and replace

2 3

1

pressures (Chapter

1

4

Brake pedal pulsates during brake application

(not specific

Defective shock absorbers. Replace as

disconnected brake lines. Inspect entire system and correct as necessary.

53

wear

balanced.

10).

a set (Chapter 10). 2 Broken or weak springs and/or suspen-

57

tire

one area)

1

3

Pedal travels to the floor with resistance

leaking caliper piston(s). loose,

and

Loose, worn or out-of-adjustment wheel

and 8). Shock absorbers and/or suspension 3 components worn or damaged

little

or no fluid in the master cylinder caused by leaking wheel cylinder(s),

1).

or lines restricted. Inspect

Excessive to

(or rotor).

Little

60

professionally balanced.

around corners or during braking

reservoir

Hoses

vibration

wheel out-of-balance or out-of-

Have

bearings (Chapters

56

52

3

1).

low (Chapter

4 Air in power steering system. Bleed system (Chapter 1 0).

9).

Excessively

2

Fluid level

replace parts as necessary.

9.

Power brake booster not operating

1

2

2

Suspension and steering systems 54

Vehicle pulls to one side uneven (Chapter

1

Tire pressures

2

Defective

3

Excessive wear

tire

(Chapter in

1).

59

Lack

1

Steering

of

power assistance

1).

suspension or steer-

pump

drivebelt faulty or not

worn

63

Tire tread

1

Tires out of balance.

2

Damaged

replace

3

if

in

one place

or buckled wheel. Inspect

necessary.

Defective

tire

(Chapter

1).

and

— 1-1

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance Contents

Section filter and PCV filter replacement Automatic transaxle fluid change Battery check and maintenance Brake check Carburetor choke check Carburetor mounting torque check Chassis lubrication

Air

Compression check Cooling system check Cooling system servicing

5 13 14

and adjustment and routine maintenance schedule Oxygen sensor - check and replacement Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve - check and replacement Manual transaxle oil change Spark plug replacement Spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor check and

and 26

check and adjustment Engine idle speed check and adjustment (carbureted models) Engine idle speed check and adjustment (1986 and 1987 Drivebelt

models)

Engine oil and filter change Engine timing belt replacement Evaporative emissions control system check Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve check Exhaust system check Fluid level

Fuel

7 (draining, flushing

refilling)

fuel injected

29 28

20 10 24 38

Clutch pedal free play check

6

15

filter

replacement

Ignition timing

Introduction

Thermostatically controlled Throttle linkage

and

tire

air

25 35

12

cleaner check

21

check

19

pressure checks

3

16

Transaxle output shaft seal and drive axle boot check Tune-up sequence Underhood hose check and replacement Valve adjustment (1987 and earlier models) Wheel bearing check and repack Wiper blade inspection and replacement

4

31

36

Tire rotation

11

1

30

replacement Suspension and steering check

39

33 32

18 17 34

Fuel system check

Tire

See Chapter 2

checks

Section .*.

23 22 2 8

37 27 9

Specifications

Recommended

lubricants

and

fluids

Note: Listed here are manufacturer recommendations at the time this manual was written. Manufacturers occasionally upgrade their lubncant specifications, so check with your local auto parts store for current recommendations. Engine

oil

SG

SG/CC

Type

API grade

Viscosity

See accompanying chart

Engine

fluid

oil

capacity (including

or

multigrade

4 qts

filter)

HOT WEATHER +100

+40 +32

+38

—— —

+4

ENGINE OIL VISCOSITY CHART -18

SAE 10W-30 -20

-29

(*)

t

For best fuel

LOOK FOR ONE OF THESE LABELS

SAE 5W-30

qs

5.6

Remove

the lock bolt

Remove

5.7

** r ^

the guide bolt from the case

»«'« vi rifl 1

"-^

ir^V^^^My^t^

— 5.10a Use two screwdrivers to carefully separate the transaxle case halves

hub, synchro ring, gear sleeve and gear.

speed) (see illustrations). 2 Use a punch to drive the locknut collar back from the groove on each of the locknuts

6

(5-speed).

7

Carefully lock the gear teeth with a screwdriver or similar tool and remove the locknuts (see illustrations). 4 Remove the 5th gear shift fork retaining pin and the shift fork (see illustration). 5 Remove the 5th gear stop plate, clutch

3

5.10b Carefully

Remove

case (see

10

the lock bolt from the transaxle

the guide bolt from the case

(see illustration).

Unscrew the backup

8

connector

from the case. 9

Mark the

ease

of

,n

the case half off the shafts

Carefully separate the halves of the case

Remove

the 5th gear

oil

13

Remove the magnet from the case. Remove the idler shaft and gear (see

illustration).

location of the wiring

clamp

for

reassembly and remove the transaxle

bolts.

14 Remove the lock bolt from the 5th gear and the reverse lock plate (see illustration). 15 On 4-speed models, remove the shift i

5.1 1 Use a scraper to remove the 5th-gear oil passage which is held in place with gasket sealant

5.13

Lift

passage (see

illustration). 1

light

™

^-

(see illustrations). 11

illustration).

Remove

lift

3

out the reverse idle shaft and remove the gear

5.14

Remove

|

^^Wfe^

the 5th-gear and reverse lock plate bolt

7A

7A-6

Chapter 7 Part

A Manual

transaxle

F «»I

If

U tSBl

j

r

The 4-speed gearshift and lever are removed as a unit 5.15

wTLmSt **£v

-

.

•

i

-

HtI

-

5.16a Use a screwdriver to lift out the 5th gear and reverse rod

gate and reverse lever as a unit, with the shifter in Neutral (see illustration). 16 Remove the 5th gear and reverse rod (see illustrations). 17 Remove the 5th and reverse gear shift gate.

18

Drive out the crank lever retaining pin

and remove the

pin (5-speed) (see illustra-

20

Remove

the crank lever assembly while

shift

rod to assist

in it's

release

Making sure the

interlock sleeve

end

end surchange rod counterclockwise as far as it will go (see illustration). 21 Pull up on the change rod. It may be necessary to pry upward on the interlock ball. surface

is

23 Place the transaxle in 4th gear by pulling upward on the upper shift fork (see illustra-

flush with the control lever

face, turn the

22

tions).

19

moving the

(5-speed) (see illustration).

Drive out the retaining pin from the

change rod (see

tion).

24

Pull

housing.

the shift rod carefully out of the the rod is clear of the hous-

When

ing, the steel ball will

fall

from the reverse

lever shaft.

25

illustration)

fork

Lift the secondary gear shaft and shift assembly from the transaxle case (see

vJ

5.16b

Remove

5.18b

the 5th gear and reverse lock plate

Remove

the crank lever shaft

5.18a Use a punch to drive out the crank lever retaining pin

5.19

Lift

out the crank lever while moving the shifter

Chapter 7 Part

5.20 Rotate the control rod counterclockwise

Remove the primary gear assembly. Remove the differential assembly (see

5.22

Use

a

punch to drive the retaining control end of the rod

Remove the Neutral Remove the input

switch.

shaft

oil

seals and

Remove

plate

Unbolt and remove the shifter guide and arm.

32

Drive out the shift arm retaining pin,

pin

from the

making sure the selector lever is centered. 33 Remove the change shaft boot from the transaxle housing and withdraw the shaft

the funnel from the transaxle

case. 31

illustration).

28 29

30

7A-7

transaxle

bearing races.

illustration).

26 27

A Manual

(see illustration).

34 Remove the reverse gate spring bushing and selector.

7A 5.23 Shift into 4th gear by pulling the shift fork

upward

5.25

Remove by

5.27

Lift

the differential assembly from the transaxle case

the secondary gearshaft assembly lifting

it

carefully

5.33 Withdraw the boot

upward

and change shaft

Chapter 7 Part A

7A-8

Manual transaxle

Carefully drive out the bearing races

35

6

(see illustration)

Remove

36

the change rod seal from the

Secondary gear shaft assembly inspection and overhaul

-

case.

37 Remove the driveaxle seals from the case by tapping them out with a hammer and punch, working around the circumference. 38 Remove the differential bearing race. 39 Remove the breather baffle. 40 Remove the control lever spring. 41 Lift the shift fork away from the secondary gear shaft with the control lever lug aligned with the shifter fork notch and remove the shaft assembly. 42 Remove the primary shaft assembly.

Refer to 1

illustrations

Remove

6.1.6.2,6.17 and 6.21

the secondary gear shaft from

the transaxle (Section

5)

(see illustration).

Place the shaft in a vise, using two blocks of wood to protect it from damage. Check the gear thrust clearances with a feeler gauge and check them against Specifi2

cations (see illustration). 3 Use a puller to remove the roller bearing from the end of the shaft and lift off 4th gear.

5.35 Drive the bearing race out by tapping evenly around the circumference with a

punch and hammer

6.1

Primary and secondary gearshaft

component

layout

and 4th

1

Shift fork (3rd

2 3 4 5

Interlock sleeve

6

Sphngpin

7

Control lever

8

Control rod

20

Beahng outer race

21 22 23

Sphngpin Control

end

Shift fon\ (1st

and 2nd

9 10

4th gear

1

Retaining hng

12

3rd gear 2nd gear Synchronizer hng

13 14 15 1

1

18

19

gears)

Retaining hng

Clutch hub assembly

Synchronizer sphng Synchronizer key Clutch hub

gears)

24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31

Reverse gear clutch hub sleeve Synchronizer hng 1st gear

Beahng

inner race

Secondary shaft Snap hng (4-speed)

Beanng

inner race

4th gear

Synchronizer hng Retaining nng 3rd and 4th gear clutch hub assembly Synchronizer sphng

32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 4

42 43

Synchronizer key Clutch hub Clutch hub sleeve Synchronizer hng 3rd gear Beanng inner race Primary shaft Clutch hub assembly Synchronizer sphng Synchronizer key Clutch hub Clutch hub sleeve

Chapter 7 Part

6.2

Check gear

thrust clearances with a feeler gauge

Remove Remove

4 5

assembly

the 3rd and 4th gear clutch hub

retaining rings.

hub assembly

Remove Remove Remove

7

8 9

off

and 4th gear clutch

the shaft.

the 3rd gear synchronizer ring. the 3rd gear assembly. the thrust washer retaining ring,

followed by the thrust washers.

1 1

6.21

ring

snap rings. 26 Install the synchro ring into the hub, aligning the groove with the keys in the hub. 27 Install 2nd gear. 28 Install the synchro ring into the hub, aligning the groove with the keys in the hub. 29 Install the thrust washer retaining rings. 30 Install 3rd gear and the 3rd gear synchro 31

Install

be performed by your dealer or a properly equipped shop. 14 Remove the bearing with a puller. 15 Inspect the gears for worn or damaged synchro cones, hub sleeve wear, worn or damaged teeth or worn surfaces. 16 Check the secondary shaft for worn or damaged sliding and contact surfaces, splines or teeth as well as for clogged oil pas-

to

rings by pressing

and then

them to make sure they slide smoothly. Measure the clearance with a feeler gauge and compare them to Specifications (see illustration). 18 Inspect the clutch hub assembly and shifter for grooves, galling and wear. 19 Disassemble the synchronizer hub and inspect the splines and surfaces for wear and into position

the springs to

make

rotating

sure they are not bent or

weak. 20 Reassemble the hub with the raised portion of the key facing the outer edge of the hub. is in

21

When

installing the spring,

make

sure

it

the center indentation of the keys.

Check the

may

nents with

new

23

the bearing on the gear end of the

and install 1st and 2nd gear clutch hubs assembly with the shift fork groove downward. 25 Install the 1st and 2nd gear assembly

li«ii^ i

32 Install the 3rd/4th gear retaining ring. 33 Install the 4th gear synchro ring, followed by 4th gear. 34 Take the shaft to a dealer or properly equipped shop to have the bearing pressed onto the shaft.

7

Primary gear shaft assembly inspection and overhaul

Refer to 1

-

illustration 7.2

Remove

securely

in

the assembly and place it a vise using wood blocks to pro-

tect the shaft surface.

2 Use a puller to remove the bearings from both ends of the shaft (see illustration). 3 Inspect the shaft and gears for worn or damaged splines, sliding surfaces or dam-

aged

teeth.

Inspect the bearings for wear, looseness, galling or pitting of the bearing rollers. Replace any worn components with 5 new ones. Press the bearings onto the shaft and 6 reinstall the assembly. 4

r

2?L*

7.2

Remove the primary

shaft bearing with a puller tool

2 Remove the bolts and lift the ring gear from the gear case (see illustration on next page). 3 Remove the pinion shaft spring pin by driving it out from the opposite side of the gear case. 4 Remove the pinion shaft, gears and thrust washers. 5 Remove the gear case bearing inner race using a press and bearing removal tool. 6 Remove the remaining bearing with a puller.

7

Remove

8

Inspect the gears and sliding and con-

the speedometer drive gear.

tact surfaces for wear, cracks

9 bly. in

and

galling.

Check the side and pinion gear assemThis is done with the driveaxles inserted

the differential assembly. With the axles

supported on B-blocks, measure the backlash of both pinion gears by manually moving

them the

8

full distance of free travel. If the backlash exceeds specification, obtain a thrust washer of the proper thickness from your dealer and install it between the differential case and side gears. The thrust washers should be of similar thickness. 10 Prior to reassembly, wash each part

inspection and

Differential

overhaul

ones.

shaft.

24

«->

require the use of a

clutch hub-to-shifter clear-

ance with a feeler gauge (see illustration). 22 Replace any worn or damaged compoInstall

*

f

press.

sages.

them

hub

the 3rd/4th gear synchro with the

aligned. Installation

Special tools are required to press off the 1st gear and the 1st and 2nd gear synchronizer assembly. This operation will have

Check the synchro

1,

clutch

shifter clearance

grooved surfaces downward and the keys

13

17

Check the

and

ring.

Remove 2nd gear. Remove the synchronizer ring. Remove the 1 st gear retaining ring.

10

Check the synchro movement

7A-9

transaxle

for free

the synchronizer ring.

Carefully pry the 3rd

6

6.17

A Manual

Refer to

Invert the shaft

1

illustration 8.2

Remove

the

differential

transaxle (Section 5) and place vise, using

face.

wood

it

from securely

the in

a

blocks to protect the sur-

thoroughly

in

solvent.

During reassembly, apply clean transmission oil to all sliding surfaces and replace with new ones any spring pins which were 11

7A

Chapter 7 Part A

7A-10

Manual transaxle

removed. 12 13

Install

the speedometer drive gear.

the side

Install

bearings,

using the

approved special tool and hydraulic press or take the assembly to your dealer or a suitably equipped shop to have this operation performed. 14 Install the pinion and side gears, using the appropriate thrust washers. Install the pinion shaft, making sure the 15 spring pin hole

aligned with the hole

is

in

the

gear case. Install the pinion shaft lock. 16 Install the spring pin by tapping it in 17 place with a hammer and drift, working from the speedometer gear side. 18 Install the ring gear and tighten the bolts

8.2 Differential

component

19

Install

the differential assembly

in

Side gears

1

Thrust washer

2 3 4 5 6

to the specified torque.

the

transaxle.

Spnng pin Pinion shaft

Thrust washer Pinion gears

Side bearing inner races Speedometer drive gear Ring gear and gear

7

8

Transaxle

9

9

reassembly

-

assembly layout

case assembly 1

Install

the drain plug

2

Install

the secondary shaft outer bearing

race by placing

Tap

it

in

in

the case.

position with

its

shim.

around the circumference with a punch and a hammer until the race is

lightly

drift

seated.

seal with clean transaxle

oil

and

install

it

in

the case. 21

Install

the spring

in

the reverse lever

shaft.

3 Install the differential bearing race and shims, matching the numbers on the shims with those on the removed items. 4 Install the primary shaft shim spring (raised portion up), followed by the spnng. the reverse lever shaft and spring.

5

Install

6

Install

the

oil

7

Install

the

shift

8

Insert the shift rod

deflector.

rod

oil

making sure the spring

pin

23

install

the shifter,

is in

the proper

position.

assembly its boss by

Carefully pull the shift fork

upward and outward of tilting the secondary gear shaft assembly. will go and Slide the control up as far as slightly

it

Place the selector rod tip through the the reverse gate and lower the assembly into position so that the shift rod can be inserted. 10 Place the reverse gate spnng in position and insert the reverse shift rod through the spring on the end of the gate. 11 Position the shift arm onto the end of

9

right hole of

the

shift rod.

12

Secure the selector to the

shift

rod with

the spring pin.

Secure the selector guide plate with the three bolts. The bolts are dissimilar and the one without a washer is installed at the upper right comer. The reverse gate spring must be installed around the rear bolt spacer. 14 Install the lock bolt and washer onto the 13

shift

arm.

15

Install

the gear lube funnel, followed by

the secondary shaft bearing race.

16

the primary shaft seal with the open end upward. Install

17 Install the primary shaft bearing into the case and tap it into place. 18 Place the magnet in the slot in the transaxle case.

19 20

Install

it

the ball

90 : from the Neutral position. Place in the end of the reverse lever shaft

and rotate the rod

in

lip

the case. of the differential

into the Neutral position.

Carefully reinsert the rod into

its

case boss. 24 Install the spring pin into the

transaxle shift fork

assembly rod control end and tap

it

into

place.

25 Install the crank lever assembly which connects the shift arm to the shift fork assembly rod control end. 26 install a new O-ring on the crank lever shaft. Lubricate the crank lever with clean transaxle oil and install it. Secure the lever with the spring retaining pin.

Place the reverse gate

in

place and slide

the 5th gear and reverse rod into position with the dimple on the rod facing out. The hole

in

the

31

Install

to the specified torque

cnss-cross pattern. Install the primary 32 seal washer.

shift

a

to

lift

up on

the secondary shift shaft to properly align the

shift

rod must be aligned with the

33

Install

the reverse

idler shaft lock bolt (5-

speed).

34

Install

the primary gear and locknut, with

the nut finger tight (5-speed).

Lubricate the primary shaft gear sleeve

35

with clean transaxle fluid and slide Lubricate and

36 37 38

install

Oti

5-speed

the 5th speed synchronizer

Install

the clutch hub assembly and

keys with the slots

install

the

oil

transaxle case. Install

the transaxle case onto the differ-

ring. shift

the synchronizer ring securing the fork with the

fork, aligning the

roll

in

pin (5-speed).

39

Install

the synchronizer stopper plate (5-

speedi.

40

Install

the secondary shaft lock nut

fin-

ger tight (5-speed). 41 Tighten both locknuts and use a punch and hammer to peen the nut collars into the shaft grooves to

keep them from turning

(5-

speed).

Apply sealant to the transaxle 5th speed cover and install the cover and bolts, tighten-

42

Install

Install

the axleshaft seals.

the backup

light

switch

in

the

case.

45 use RTV-type passage on the

models,

into

the 5th gear.

Install

ing to the specified torque.

transaxle case.

it

place (5-speed).

43 44

30

in

rod lock bolt and

may be necessary

It

reverse gate.

29

so the primary

the transaxle case retaining bolts

and tighten them

28 Install the reverse idler gear and shaft. Place the gear in position, insert the shaft with the shaft hole lined up with the rib in the

sealant to

the differential

Lubricate the inner

rotate

27

it

and secondary gear shafts seat in their bosses. It may be necessary to align the magnet with the slot in the upper case half.

lock bolt. Tighten the bolt securely (5-speed).

case.

seal.

and

22 Position the shift fork assembly on the secondary shaft gear assembly. Use care when installing and make sure the gears are properly meshed with the differential and primary shaft. The shift fork assembly must be inserted into the proper boss in the transaxle

ential case, carefully placing

Lightly lubricate the O-ring with clean

transaxle

oil,

install

gear assembly. assembly.

46

Install

it

Install

on the speedometer the speedometer gear

the transaxle (Section

4).

7B-1

Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transaxle Contents Section Automatic transaxle

fluid

See Chapter

change

general

Diagnosis

-

Fluid level

check

1

Kickdown switch checking and replacement - check and adjustment Transaxle mounts - check and replacement Transaxle removal and installation

6

Transaxle seals

5

Vacuum diaphragm

1

2

See Chapter

General information Inhibitor switch - checking and replacement Kickdown solenoid - checking

Section

1

4 9

-

Shift linkage

-

See Chapter 2A 7

replacement -

testing

8 3

and replacement

Specifications

Torque specifications

Ft-ibs

M-kg

Crossmember All

12

10 mm bolts mm bolt

Torque converter

32 69 25 66

bolt

Transaxle-to-engine bolt

to to to to

40 85 36 86

overhaul, this should not be undertaken by

General information

1

Refer to

illustration

Due and the because

1.

complexity of the clutches hydraulic control system, and

to the

of the special tools

home mechanic

(see illustration). Therefore, the procedures in this Chapter are limited to general diagnosis, routine maintethe

and expertise

required to perform an automatic transaxle

nance and adjustment, transaxle removal and installation and replacement of the input and output shaft seals. If

the transaxle requires major repair

4.4 to 5.5

9.5 to 11.8 3.5 to 5.0 9.1 to 11.9

it should be left to a dealer service department or a transmission repair shop. You can, however, remove and install the transaxle yourself and save the expense, even if the repair work is done by a transmis-

work,

sion specialist.

Adjustments that the home mechanic can perform include those involving the kickdown switch and solenoid, the inhibitor (neutral start) switch, vacuum diaphragm and the shift linkage. Caution: Never tow a disabled vehicle at speeds greater than 30 mph or distances over 50 miles unless the front wheels are off the ground. Failure to observe this precaution may result in severe transmission damage caused by lack of lubrication.

Diagnosis

2

-

general

Automatic transmission malfunctions

may be caused by

four general conditions:

poor engine performance, improper adjustments, hydraulic malfunctions and mechanical malfunctions. Diagnosis of these problems should always begin with a check of the easily repaired items: fluid level and condition, shift linkage adjustment and throttle linkage adjustment. Next, perform a road test to determine if the problem has been corrected 1.1

7

2 3 4

Automatic transaxle details

or

Vacuum diaphragm Kickdown solenoid

5 6

Oil

pan Case

10

Inhibitor switch

7

Oil seal

1

8

Oil

Oil level

tube

pipe

9

12

Speedometer gear Servo retainer Drain plug Fluid pressure detection plug

if

more diagnosis

is

necessary.

If

the prob-

lem persists after the preliminary tests and corrections are completed, additional diagnosis should be done by a dealer service department or a transmission repair shop.

7B

7B-2

Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transaxle

Checking the vacuum diaphragm

3.4

3

Vacuum diaphragm

-

testing

4.2

Checking the kickdown switch

Checking

and

Refer to

replacement

positive

illustration

4.2

6

With the throttle pedal completely depressed, use an ohmmeter to make sure there is continuity between the terminals as

1

illustration 3.4

Symptoms

of a fault in the

diaphragm include

vacuum

vibration during shifts

shown (see

illustration).

3

Loosen the locknut and turn the

down

switch

continuity

until

the

ohmmeter

the

throttle

when

depressed

is

the rod does not inch, replace the

5

applied (see illustration).

seven-eighths

of

Checking

pedal

Refer to

full

is

travel.

or moves less than one diaphragm with a new one.

After installation,

check the

and add as necessary (Chapter

Kickdown solenoid

-

fluid level

1).

Refer to 1

A

cated

illustrations 5.4

fault in the

if

is

and

will

not

depressed or

if

shift

is

indi-

down when

the downshift

2

Kickdown switch

-

checking and

is

adjustment 1

If

the transaxle

Raise the front of the vehicle and sup-

securely on jackstands. Trace the wire to the connector near the battery and unplug it. 4 Unscrew the switch with a large pair of pliers (see illustration) and plug the opening with a rag. 5 Hold your finger on the solenoid plunger. Place the switch on the battery negative post and touch the connector to the port

it

3

will

not

shift

down when

is fully depressed and the kickdown solenoid is operating properly (Section 5), the kickdown switch could be

the throttle pedal

faulty or out of adjustment.

5.4 Use large pliers to unscrew the kickdown solenoid from the transaxle case

5.5 Testing the

kickdown solenoid

illustrations 6.3a

Check the

and 6.3b

proper operation by making sure that the engine starts only with the shifter in the Park and 1

inhibitor switch for

Trace the wire from the switch to the connector and unplug the connector. Check the switch connector terminals 3

hesitant or rough.

4

checking and

2

5.5

kickdown solenoid

the transaxle

the throttle

-

Neutral positions.

checking

If

move

Inhibitor switch

kick-

4

when vacuum

Replace the solenoid switch with a new there is any doubt about its condition.

if

indicates

Tighten the locknut.

5

sure the plunger

replacement

Adjustment

transaxle.

Connect a vacuum pump to the diaphragm and check that the rod moves

one

6

and

incomplete shifts. Drain approximately one quart of fluid 2 from the transaxle so the level will be below the vacuum diaphragm (Chapter 1). Disconnect the vacuum hose and 3 remove the vacuum diaphragm from the

make

retracts (see illustration).

2

Refer to

post to

for continuity

for continuity

with an

in

Park, Reverse

ohmmeter (see

and Neutral

illustrations).

With the ignition on and the shifter in the noted positions, there should be continuity between (see illustration 6.3b):

4

Park position A and B terminals Reverse position C and D terminals Neutral position

A and B

terminals

Replacement Unplug the connector and unscrew the 5 switch from the transaxle. Installation is the reverse of removal.

6.3a Checking the inhibitor switch

7B-3

Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transaxle

6.3b Inhibitor switch terminal details 7.3

7.8

The engine must be supported during transaxle removal

Transaxle

-

removal and

pliers to

remove the

shift

cable retaining

clip

7.11 Transaxle bolt locations (arrows)

engine, the hood must be

7

Use needle nose

removed

to gain

Chapter 11). Connect the support to the engine and

sufficient clearance (see

installation

8

I

7B

raise the vehicle to provide sufficient clear-

ance

Removal Refer to

1

3

7.8,7.11,7.16,7.17

Disconnect the battery negative cable. Disconnect the speedometer cable. Disconnect the shift control cable from

Disconnect the battery negative cable and ground wires from the transaxle. 5 Disconnect the inhibitor switch and kickdown solenoid. 6 Remove the starter motor (Chapter 5). There are two principal ways of support7 ing the weight of the engine during the removal of the transaxle. A special support fixture can be obtained which rests on the suspension strut mount towers or an engine hoist can be used. If the engine support fix4

is

being used,

engine hoist

it

Disconnect the

9

oil

cooler lines at the

transaxle.

the transaxle (see illustration).

ture

and support

securely on jackstands (see illustration).

illustrations 7.3,

and 7.22 2

for lowering the transaxle

is

install

it

at this time.

If

the

being used to support the

Disconnect and tag any remaining vacor electrical connectors that are attached to the transaxle or will interfere with the removal of the transaxle. 1

uum

11

Remove

the upper transaxle-to-engine

bolts (see illustration).

12

Remove

the front wheels and splash

shields.

13

Disconnect the stabilizer bar, remove 7.16 Torque converter access cover

the lower balljoint-to-steering knuckle bolts

and nuts and separate the

balljoint

knuckle (Chapter 10). 14 Remove the right driveaxle and disconnect the left driveaxle from the transaxle (Chapter 8). Use a piece of wire to fasten the left

15

driveaxle out of the way.

Remove

bolt location (arrow)

from the

the joint shaft and bracket

assembly (Chapter

8).

16

Remove

plate

and separating plate (see illustration). With an assistant rotating the engine

17

the torque converter access

Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transaxle

7B-4

Lock the flywheel gear teeth with a screwdriver when removing the torque converter bolts

7.17

with a

bring

7.22

Lower the transaxle

carefully

because

it

can

easily topple off the jack

wrench on the crankshaft pulley bolt to them into position, remove the torque

converter bolts (see illustration).

18 Remove all but two of the crossmember assembly bolts. 19 Place a jack under the crossmember, remove the bolts and lower the crossmember

assembly. 20 Support the transaxle with the jack. 21 Making sure the engine weight is supported by the lift, remove the two lower transaxle-to-engine bolts.

22 Slide the transaxle away from the engine and carefully lower the jack until it is clear of the vehicle (see illustration).

Installation 23

Raise the transaxle into position while an assistant guides it, making sure the torque converter

24

is

Install

Install

The

c)

its

8.3

bore

The head of the punch and hammer can be used to seat the new

the transaxle-to-engine mounting the engine crossmember.

rest of the installation

Axleshaft seals Refer to illustrations 8.4 and 8.5 4

Pry the old seal out with a screwdriver

(see illustration).

following notes:

b)

similar tool to pry the

input shaft seal out of

seal fully into the bore

procedure is the reverse of the removal procedure with the

a)

Use a punch or

not dislodged.

bolts, tightening to the specified torque.

25 26

8.2

Make

sure

to the

proper

all

nuts

and

5

new

seal with clean engine

base grease. Place the

lip

oil

or white lithium

of the

new

seal into

a piece of pipe or a large socket of 1-3/4 inch diameter and tap it evenly into the bore (see

Lubricate the inner circumference of the

illustration).

8.4 Pry out the old axleshaft seal

8.5

bolts are torqued

value.

The suspension alignment should be checked by a dealer or suitably equipped shop.

Check the ter

transaxle fluid level (Chap-

1).

8

Transaxle seals

1

Remove

-

replacement

the transaxle (Section

7).

Input shaft seal Refer to

illustrations 8.2

and

8.3

Pry the old seal out using a small screw-

2

punch (see illustration). Coat the inner circumference of the seal with clean engine oil and tap it into the bore driver or

3

until

it

tion).

is

flush with the housing (see illustra-

with a screwdriver

Use a socket and rubber mallet the

new

axleshaft seal fully transaxle case bore

to tap

into the

Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transaxle

^ Bjl'on mj5l (=>

9.1

oe pressed

Button neec

Shift linkage detent positions

Shift linkage

check and

and Neutral without the need to depress the button on the shifter handle. The button must be depressed when moving from Drive to

adjustment Refer to 1

illustrations 9.

Move

7B-5

1

and 9.3

Reverse.

the shifter through each position,

3

If

the button

plate (see illustration). Slight resistance should be felt entering each detent. 2 The shifter should move between Drive

9.3

Automatic transaxle

component 2

Knob Knob

4

Cable locknut

/

is

if

the shifter can

shifter

layout

locknut

6

Shifter lever bracket

7

10

Nut and washer Lever mounting bolt Guide pin Push rod

11

Shifter lever

12

Cable-to-transaxle pin

13

Shifter cable

8 9

loose or

be moved from Drive to Reverse without pressing the button, adjust the shifter knob (see illustration). Loosen the locknut, twist the shifter knob until proper operation of the linkage is attained and tighten the locknut.

making sure the movement into each detent is positive and corresponds to the shifter

©

7B

7B-6

Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transaxle

Notes

8-1

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles Contents Section removal and

Section

4

Clutch release cylinder

1

Clutch

7

Driveaxle and joint shaft

Clutch master cylinder

5

Driveaxle boot

Clutch operation

2

Driveaxle

Clutch cable Clutch

-

-

installation

general information

Clutch hydraulic system

Clutch pedal

-

-

bleeding

- removal and installation checking removal and installation -

-

-

removal and

installation

removal, inspection and installation

-

-

removal and replacement -

installation

6 8

10 11

9

general information

3

Specifications Clutch

pilot

8

bearing-to-crankshaft end surface clearance

(Dimension

A

Hydraulic clutch

in illustration

0.087 to 0.110

8.16c)

minimum disengagement

height

2.7

in

(68

in

mm)

Torque specifications

Ft-ibs

M-kg

Clutch release lever and fork bolt Clutch pressure plate-to-flywheel bolt Flywheel bolt

20

2.7

13 to 20

1.8 to 2.7

71 to 76

9.8 to 10.5

108 to 116 71 to 75

96 to 103

1983 through 1984 models 1985 models 1986 and later models Clutch cover-to-flywheel Clutch master cylinder mounting bolts Clutch release cylinder mounting bolts Stabilizer bar nut

Steering knuckle-to-shock absorber bolt Steering knuckle-to-balljoint

Wheel nut

13 to 20.3 14 to 19 14 to 19 9 to 13

69 to 86 32 to 40 65 to 87

(unless otherwise indicated

14.5 to 16.0

Nm

18to26Nm 19 to 26

Nm

19to26Nm 1

.2

to

1 .8

9.5 to 11.9

4.4 to 5.5 9.0 to 12.0

8-2

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles

1.1

1

Clutch pedal

2 3 4

Spring

7

Clutch cable Release lever Release fork Release bearing Clutch cover

8

Clutch disc

5

6

Refer to

illustration

Clutch component layout (cable-actuated shown)

1.

Manual transaxle equipped vehicles use a single dry plate, diaphragm spring-type clutch. Operation is through a foot pedal, cable or hydraulic actuation, release lever and fork assembly and a release bearing (see illustration).

3.2 Clutch pedal

Models through 1985 used a clutch sys-

tem actuated by a cable. Beginning

in

installation details

1986, a

(cable-actuated shown)

hydraulic actuation system, using a master cylinder

2

and slave

cylinder,

Clutch operation

-

became

available.

checking

Cable-operated clutch clutch, several

mine

if

there

actually a fault

in

Though bolt and washer and nut Spring washer Plain washer Bolt

Rod Nut Assist seat

to deter-

8 9

the clutch

10

checks can be made

is

Clip

7

Before performing any operations on the

1

1

2 3 4 5 6

itself.

Assist spring

11

Spacer Bushings

With the engine running and the brake

12

Clip

applied, hold the clutch pedal approximately

13

Pin

1/2-inch from the floor and shift back and forth several times. If the shifts are smooth,

14

Spring seat

15

the clutch

16 17 18

Bushings Plain washer

2

clutch

is

is

releasing properly.

not releasing

fully

If it

is

not the

and the linkage

should be checked. Inspect the clutch pedal bushings for 3

Pad Clutch pedal

wear or binding. 4 Refer to Chapter 1 for further information on clutch and clutch pedal adjustment.

slave cylinder that actuates the clutch release

be

Hydraulic clutch

lever,

and the clutch release bearing. Refer to Chapter 1 for information on adjustments

add fluid as necessary and inspect the hydraulic clutch sys-

involved with the hydraulic clutch system.

tem

Other than replacing components that have obvious damage, some preliminary checks should be performed to diagnose a clutch system failure. The first check should

release,

1986 and later models are equipped 5 with a clutch release system operated by hydraulic pressure.

The hydraulic release

system consists of the clutch pedal, master cylinder and fluid reservoir, the hydraulic line,

6

of the fluid level

der.

If

the

in

the clutch master cylin-

fluid level is low,

To check for complete clutch check the release cylinder push-rod travel. With the clutch pedal depressed completely, the release cylinder push-rod should for leaks.

extend substantially.

8-3

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles

4.1

Clutch cable assembly installation details

Locknut and adjusting nut Plain washer

5 6

Screws and

Roller

7

Bracket gasket

clip

band

Clutch cable

Nuts

removal and

Clutch pedal installation

Removal Refer to 1

illustration

Remove

3.2

the under dash

access (Chapter

air

duct for

11).

5.4 Hydraulic clutch

Remove

the clip and disconnect the upper end of the clutch pedal rod (see illus-

2

master

cylinder details

tration).

Remove the pedal through bolt and nut, disengage the clutch cable or hydraulic master cylinder rod and remove the pedal and rod assembly from the vehicle. 3

Prior to installation, lubricate the pedal

bushing and cable hook

liberally with lithium

base grease. Place the pedal in position, install the 5 through bolt and nut and connect the clutch cable or master cylinder rod. 6 Connect the pedal rod. 7 Refer to Chapter 1 and check the clutch pedal height and free play, adjusting as necessary.

8

Install

the

air

end

of

duct.

2

the cable from the bracket on the

Pull

transaxle.

3

Clutch cable

-

removal and

installation

1

In

illustration 4.

the engine compartment, remove the

bracket

passenger compartment remove the under dash air duct for clearance. 5 Disengage the cable from the pedal and remove it from the vehicle.

4

Inside

the

Installation 6

Prior to installation, lubricate the contact

connect 8

9

roller

Insert the cable it

and the release through the

lever.

firewall

and

in

the release arm and

the bracket and clip band.

Install

locknut.

Adjust the pedal free play (Chapter

11

Install

the

air

duct.

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

On some models, may be necessary remove the ABS relay box.

to

3

it

Disconnect the hydraulic

clutch master cylinder.

line

at the

use a which will prevent the fitting from being rounded off. Have rags or a container handy as some fluid will be lost as the line is removed. Caution: Don'f allow brake fluid to come into contact with flare-nut

wrench on the

the paint, as

it

Remove

will

If

available,

fitting,

damage

the

finish.

the nuts which secure the

ter cylinder to the

engine

firewall

(see

masillus-

You will find one nut on the firewall and the other nut under the dash on the

tration).

the washer, adjusting nut and

1

8

illustration 5.4

2

4

to the clutch pedal.

Insert the cable

install

Removal

the clip band and

retaining the cable.

7

Refer to

installation

Removal Refer to

Remove

surfaces of the

4

and

removal

release lever (see illustration).

Installation 4

Clutch master cylinder and washer from the the cable and disengage it from the

locknut, adjusting nut

1 ).

brake pedal bracket. Carefully guide the master cylinder off 5 the push-rod and through the firewall.

8-4

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles ful

Installation Carefully guide the master cylinder 6 through the firewall and onto the push-rod. Install the mounting nuts finger tight. 7 Connect the hydraulic line to the master cylinder, moving the cylinder slightly as necessary to thread the

fitting

properly into the bore.

fitting as it's installed. Tighten the mounting nuts and the

not to cross-thread the

7

the release cylinder, allowing

fitting.

the master cylinder with brake fluid

Fill

conforming to DOT 3 specifications. 8 Bleed the hydraulic system.

Lower the vehicle. Connect the negative and check for proper operation

9

battery cable

before returning the vehicle to service.

Don't cross-thread the

8

hydraulic line

9

Fill

fitting

Clutch hydraulic system bleeding

7

securely.

-

the clutch master cylinder reservoir

with brake fluid conforming to

DOT

3 specifi-

The hydraulic system should be bled of whenever any part of the system has been removed or if the fluid level has been allowed to fall so low that air has been drawn into the master cylinder. The procedure is 1

cations and bleed the clutch hydraulic system.

all

Connect the negative battery cable and check for proper operation before returning 10

vehicle to service.

air

fluid to

flow

through the hose. Close the bleeder valve when fluid stops flowing from the hose. Once closed, have your assistant release the pedal. 6 Continue this process until all air is evacuated from the system, indicated by a full solid stream of fluid being ejected from the bleeder valve each time and no air bubbles in the hose or container. Keep a close watch on the fluid level inside the clutch master cylinder reservoir; if the level drops too low, air will be sucked back into the system and the process will have to be started all over again. 7

Install

cle.

Check

the dust cap and lower the vehicarefully for proper operation

before placing the vehicle back into service.

very similar to bleeding a brake system.

and

removal

-

installation

Removal Refer to

illustration 6.3

Disconnect the negative battery cable. Raise the vehicle and support it securely

1

2

on jack stands. Disconnect the hydraulic 3

8

cylinder.

relationship so that

Fill

fluid

Remove the dust cap that bleeder valve and push a length of plastic hose over the valve. Place the other end of the hose into a clear container with about two inches of brake fluid in it. The hose end must be submerged in the fluid. 5 Have an assistant depress the clutch pedal and hold it. Open the bleeder valve on 4

line

release cylinder (see illustration).

If

at the

available

use a flare-nut wrench on the fitting, which prevent the fitting from being rounded off. Have a container or some rags handy, as some fluid will escape as the line is removed. 4 Remove the release cylinder mounting bolts and remove the release cylinder. will

fits

Installation Install the release cylinder on the clutch 5 housing, making sure the push-rod is seated in

the release fork pocket and tighten the

mounting bolts. 6 Connect the hydraulic

line to

the release

cylinder. Tighten the connection, being care-

8.4 Clutch 1

2 3

component

Transaxle

4

Clutch cover

5

Clutch disc

removal, inspection and

the master cylinder with new brake conforming to DOT 3 specifications. Caution: Do not re-use any of the fluid coming from the system during the bleeding operation or use fluid which has been kept inside an open container for an extended period of time. Raise the vehicle and place it securely 3 on jackstands to gain access to the release

2

Clutch release cylinder

6

layout

Flywheel Release bearing

6.3 Hydraulic clutch installation details

over the

Clutch

-

installation

Removal Refer to

illustrations 8.4

and

8.

1

Remove

2

Mark the pressure plate-to-flywheel

the transaxle (Chapter

it

can be

same position. 3 Use an alignment

7).

installed in the

tool or screwdriver handle to hold the clutch disc during removal of the pressure plate. 4 Lock the flywheel ring gear and loosen the pressure plate retaining bolts evenly, one turn at a time, in a criss-cross pattern so as not to warp the cover (see illustration).

8.7

5

Remove

Removing the clutch release bearing

the pressure plate and clutch

disc.

Handle the disc carefully, taking care not to touch the lining surface, and set it aside. 7 Disconnect the return spring from the 6

release fork hook, twist the release lever

remove the release bearing (see 8 fork

Remove and

lever

illustration).

the release fork bolt and

away as a

and

lift

the

new one if any is prewear by measuring the distance from the rivet head to the material surface and checking this measurement against replace the disc with a

Refer to illustrations 8. 12, 8.16a. 8.16b and 8.16c

vacuum cleaner use compressed air as ger your health

if

8.

14a,

8.

14b.

or clean cloth.

of the

Do

not

the dust can endan-

inhaled.

Inspect the pressure plate for

and wear

damage

diaphragm spring, scratches,

scoring or color changes (indicating overheating) of the friction surface and damage or distortion of the cover. Although minor imperfections of the friction surface can be

those

sandpaper, the pressure plate should be replaced with a new unit if there is any doubt as to its condition. 11

fine

Inspect the surface of the flywheel for

mounting or damaged clutch springs. Check the surface for burned areas, grooves, cracks or other signs of wear.

It

may be necessary

to

remove a badly grooved flywheel and have it machined to restore the surface. Light glazing of the flywheel surface can be removed with fine sandpaper.

8.14a

Check the release bearing sure that

it

to

rotates smoothly

make

12 tion

oil,

illus-

the disc with a tion as to

its

new one

if

there

is

any ques-

condition.

Check the release bearing for wear and and make sure that it turns and

distortion

slides easily on the input shaft (see illustra-

Unless the vehicle has very low miles, a good idea to replace the bearing with a new one whenever the clutch is removed. 15 Inspect the clutch housing mounting

tions). is

surface, release lever

wear,

cracking,

and

return spring for

distortion,

damage and

fatigue, replacing as necessary. 1

to

Check the make sure

it

pilot

bearing

in

the crankshaft

turns easily and smoothly by

applying force with your finger and rotating

Inspect the clutch lining for contamina-

by

the Specifications Section (see

13 Inspect the disc for distortion, wear, loose rivets, weak springs and damaged splines. Slide the disc onto the input shaft temporarily to make sure the fit is snug and the splines are not burred or worn. Replace

it

signs of uneven contact, indicating improper

in

for

tration).

1

removed with

Check

sent.

Clean the dust out of the clutch housing

using a

10

unit.

8.12 Measuring the clutch lining

Inspection

9

8-5

Clutch and driveaxles

Chapter 8

grease or any other substance and

(see illustration). Replace the bearing

essary by removing

it

with a slide

if

it

nec-

hammer

8

8.14b The release bearing must slide back and forth smoothly in the directions shown

8.16a

Check the

pilot

bearing for smooth rotation

8-6

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles

8.16b Removing the

pilot

bearing with a slide

and tapping a new one

into the crankshaft bore using a socket or piece of pipe and a

hammer

21

17

Remove

9

illustration

Driveaxle

Refer to

install

general information lb

and

9.

1c

Power

is transmitted from the transaxle wheels by driveaxles, which consist of splined solid axles with constant velocity (CV) joints at each end (see illustra-

to the front

With the disc held in place by an aligntool or socket (see illustration), place the pressure plate in position and align it with any marks made prior to removal. 19 Install the bolts and tighten them in a criss-cross pattern, one or two turns at a time,

tions).

18

ment

The driveaxles are

of equal length with

a joint shaft located between the transaxle

and the

right driveaxle.

The CV joints are pro-

tected by rubber boots that are retained by straps to keep the joints from being contami-

they are tightened to the specified torque. Install

-

illustrations 9. 1a, 9.

splines lightly with moly-base grease.

the release lever, fork, spring and

nated by water and

8.18

A socket can be used

dirt.

alignment tool

bearing.

New

part

t

be used

(Left side)

3

^Right side)

9.1a Driveaxle 1

the crankshaft

8.18

release bearing, input shaft and clutch disc

until

the alignment tool and

in

(see illustrations).

Prior to installation, lubricate the clutch

20

8.16c Tap the pilot bearing assembly into place

the transaxle.

Installation Refer to

hammer

Boot band

2 3

Clip

4

Snap

5

Ball bearings

6

Bearing inner ring

CV joint outer ring ring

component 7

8 9 10 11

layout

Cage

12

Clip

13

Boot band Boot Boot band

14

Boot band Boot Shaft

and joint

assembly 15

Clip

New

part

to be used

o

as a clutch

8-7

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles

8

9.1b Manual transaxle driveaxle

1

2 3 4

Lockout

Washer Outer joint

Boot

assembly

component

layout details

9

5

Boot band

6

Differential side joint assembly

1

Clip Joint shaft assembly

7

Snap

1

Reamer bolt

8

Clip

12

Joint shaft bracket mounting bolt

ring

8-8

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles

FRONT

9.1c Automatic transaxle driveaxle

component

layout details

Soof band

1

Locknut

5

2 3

Washer

6

Tripod joint assembly

Outer joint assembly

7

Clip

4

Boot

8

Joint shaft assembly

The boots should be inspected periodi(Chapter 1) for damage, leaking lubricant or cuts. Damaged CV joint boots must be replaced immediately or the joints can be damaged. Boot replacement involves removcally

ing the driveaxles (Section 10).

The most common symptom

damaged CV

of

worn or

besides lubricant leaks are a clicking noise in turns, a clunk when accelerating from a coasting condition or vibration at highway speeds. joints

transaxle.

10

Driveaxle and joint shaft

-

removal and installation

Removal Driveaxle ReferfO

illustrations 10.2, 10.4a, 10.4b, 10.5

and 10.6 1 Raise the front of the vehicle, support it securely on jackstands. remove the front wheels and splash shields and drain the

Lock the brake disc with a screwdriver and remove the hub nut (see illustration). Disconnect the stabilizer link, remove 3 the balljoint and steering knuckle nuts and bolts and disconnect the strut from the 2

balljoint (Chapter 10). 4 Carefully pry the inner end of the axle from the transaxle or joint shaft (see illustration). On automatic transaxle models it may be necessary to insert a chisel between the driveaxle and housing, tapping the end of the

8-9

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles

10.2

A screwdriver will

10.4a Disconnect the left driveaxle from the manual transaxle by tapping it out

inserted into the rotor through the caliper hold the hub stationary when loosening and tightening the hub locknut

10.4b Disengage the

left driveaxle from the transaxle on automatic transaxle models

differential

10.5

chisel lightly to

disengage the driveaxle from

the differential (see illustration).

Disengage the driveaxle from the hub by using a puller (see illustration). Support the CV joints and remove the 6 driveaxle from the vehicle (see illustration). 5

Use a

puller to

disengage the driveaxle from the hub

Joint shaft

the hole in the transaxle case

Refer to illustrations 10.7 and 10.8

driveaxle

7

After

removing

remove the joint

the

right

driveaxle,

disengage the shaft from the transaxle and lower it retaining bolts,

from the vehicle (see

illustration).

Note: Plug

driveaxle

removed.

is

and

care not to

whenever the

When both

the

the joint shaft are removed, take

move

the transaxle differential

side gear splines.

8

Prior to installation, install

new

clips

8

10.6 Support the

CV joints and

10.7

withdraw the driveaxle past the hub assembly carefully

lever and hammer as shown to disengage the right driveaxle and joint shaft from the transaxle

Use a

8-10

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles

New

10.8

The

clip

must be replaced with a new one whenever the driveaxles or joint shaft are removed

(available at your dealer) in the driveaxle joint shaft grooves

and

and

lubricate the splines

with transaxle lubricant (see illustration).

Installation Joint shaft 9

Insert the joint shaft into the transaxle,

install

10.1

clip

the retaining bolts and tighten

them

to

Use

1

a

driveaxle

through the caliper into a disc cooling vane, and tighten the hub nut (Chapter 10). 15 Use a hammer and punch to peen the locknut collar into the groove in the driveaxle (see illustration). 16 Connect the stabilizer bar, install the splash shields and wheels, fill the transaxle with the specified fluid (Chapter 1) and lower the vehicle.

the specified torque.

Driveaxle Refer to illustrations

10.

1 1

and

10.

15

11

Driveaxle boot

-

replacement

10 Raise the driveaxle into position while supporting the CV joints and insert the

Refer to illustrations 11.3, 11.5a, 11.5b,

splined ends into the

11.6, 11.7, 11.11, 11.12a, 11.12b,

hub and

transaxle.

Seat the driveaxle into the differential by it with a piece of wood and a hammer (see illustration). 12 Place the steering knuckle in position and install the bolts (Chapter 10). 13 Install the hub nuts. 14 Lock the disc so that it cannot turn, using a screwdriver or punch inserted 1

gently tapping

hammer and

11.16a and 11.16b

1

Remove

Place the driveaxle assembly

a piece of

wood

to seat the

the transaxle

using blocks of

wood

to protect the surface

damage. Cut the boot retaining bands and disthe bands (see illustration). Pry back the boot and slide down the shaft, away from the CV joint.

from 3 card 4 5

it

Remove

the joint outer ring retaining clip

equipped) with a screwdriver and slide the ring off (see illustrations). Remove the snap ring and slide the 6 bearing assembly off the axleshaft splines (see illustration). Slide the boot off the axle (see illustra7 (if

tion).

Due to the work involved in driveaxle removal and installation, it is a good idea to replace both boots even if only one boot is damaged, unless the vehicle has covered very few miles. Clean the bearing assembly and shaft 9 splines carefully and inspect for wear, damage, and contamination by dirt and water. Replace any damaged components with new 8

Note: Prior to beginning work, obtain the proper boot kit from your dealer. The boot kit contains special moly-base lubricant required for use on Constant Velocity (CV) joints, and no other type should be used. 2

in

the driveaxle (Section 10). in

a vise,

4mm (O.I6in)

1

10.15 Peen the locknut collar into the driveaxle groove with a hammer and punch or dull chisel

11.3 Cut the driveaxle boot retaining

with a pair of wire cutters

band

8-11

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles

1 1

.5a

Remove

the

CV joint

clip with a

outer ring retaining screwdriver

11.5b

11.7 11.6

Remove the

The wheel side

bearing snap-ring (tripod-type bearing)

ones.

it

10 Wrap tape around the shaft splines to avoid damaging the sealing surface of the new boot during installation. Lightly lubricate the inner diameter of the new boot and slide

different

onto the driveaxle. Note: Different boots are

used on the wheel and differential sides, which should not be mixed up. 11 Remove the tape, apply a light coat of grease to the splines and install the bearing

Remove

the outer ring

and differential side driveaxle boots are and should not be interchanged

(left)

assembly and snap ring with the tapered edge facing the shaft (see illustration). 12 Pack the bearing cavity with the special moly base grease (see illustrations). 1

Install

the outer

ring.

8

11.11

The chamfer (arrow) must face toward the axle

11.12a Carefully pack grease into the cavity

11.12b Cover the bearing cavity

8-12

Chapter 8

11.16a

Bend the boot band locking clip lock it securely with a punch

Seat the boot in the grooves. Install the boot retaining bands so that the tightening tab folds in the opposite direc1

15

tion of driveshaft rotation

when

the vehicle

is

flat

and

Clutch and driveaxles

1 1

.16b

moving forward. 16 Pull the band tight with a pair of pliers and lock it tightly in place by bending the tabs over and securing them with a blunt tool

Use

pliers to pull the

boot band tight

such as a large punch (see 17

Install

the driveaxle.

illustrations).

9-1

Chapter 9

Brakes

Contents Section Brake check Brake pedal assembly - removal and installation Disc brake caliper - overhaul Disc brake caliper - removal and installation Disc brake pads - replacement Disc brake rotor - inspection, removal and installation Drum brake shoes - replacement Drum brake wheel cylinder - removal, overhaul and installation Fluid level check

See Chapter

1

11

4 3 2 5 6 7

See Chapter

Section General information Hydraulic brake hoses and and replacement Hydraulic system

-

i -

lines

1

inspection

bleeding

Master cylinder - removal, overhaul and installation Parking brake assembly - removal and installation Parking brake cable - removal and installation Parking brake - checking and adjustment Power brake booster - inspection, removal and installation

9 15 8 12 13 10 14

1

Specifications

Disc brakes Front pad thickness

mm)

Standard

0.39

Service

0.006 in (0.15 mm) 0.04 in (1 mm) 2.160 in (54 mm)

limit

Rear brake pad minimum thickness Caliper bore

in

(10

Front rotor

Thickness Standard Service

limit

Runout (maximum) Rear rotor Thickness Standard

0.055 in (14 mm) 0.49 in (12.5 mm)

0.0039

in (0.1

(10

mm)

0.39

in

0.31

in (8

mm) mm)

0.04

in (1

mm

Standard

0.19

in (5.0

Service

0.04

in (1.0

Standard

7.87

in

(200

Service

7.91

in

(201

Service

Runout

limit

limit

Rear drum brakes Lining thickness

limit

mm) mm)

Drum diameter limit

mm) mm)

Wheel cylinder Bore

0.748

in

mm)

(1.95

Piston-to-bore clearance

Standard

0.02 to 0.005

in

Service

0.006

mm)

limit

in

(0.15

(0.040 to 0.125

mm)

9

Master cylinder mm)

Bore diameter

7/8-in (22.22

Piston-to-bore clearance

0.002 to 0.005 in (0.05 to 0.127 0.006 in (0.15 mm)

Wear

limit

mm)

Torque specifications

Ft-lbs

M-kg

Brake pedal-to-bracket Front disc brake caliper mounting bolts

14.5 to 25.3

2 to 3.5

12 to 18 14.5 to 21.7

1.6 to 3.5

Upper Lower Rear disc brake caliper mounting bolts 1987 1988 and later Steering knuckle bolts

46

to 61

16 to 24 36 to 55

(unless otherwise indicated)

!

2 to 3

63 to 82 12 to 17 5 to 7.6

Nm Nm

9-2

Chapter 9

Torque specifications (continued)

Brakes Ft-lbs

M-kg

Front

16to19

2.2 to 2.6

Rear

17 to 25 7 to 11

2.3 to 3.5

50

6.9

(unless otherwise indicated)

Flexible brake hose-to-caliper

Wheel cylinder

retaining bolt

1

to 1.5

Rear spindle-to-backing plate bolts Brake pipe flare nut

9.4 to 16

1.3 to 2.2

Wheel

65 to 87

9 to 12

lug nuts

pull

General information

1

Refer to

illustration 1.1

All vehicles covered by this manual are equipped with hydraulically operated front and rear brake systems (see illustration). 1986 and earlier front brake systems are disc type

drum type. Some 1987 and later models use disc brakes on the rear wheels. The rear disc brake

while the rear brakes are disc or

pad, caliper and disc checking procedures are basically the

same as

for the front disc brake.

models have sealed rear wheel bearings which do not require adjustment (see Chapter 10). Because of the special tools required, overhaul of the rear caliper must be 1

988 and

left

later

to a dealer.

The front compensate for pad wear while the rear drum brakes incorporate an adjustment mechanism which is actiAll

brakes are

self adjusting.

disc brakes automatically

vated as the brakes are applied until the thickness of the brake lining decreases to less than 0.078 in (2 mm). The hydraulic system consists of two separate front and rear circuits. The master cylinder has separate reservoirs for the two circuits and in the event of a leak or failure in one hydraulic circuit, the other circuit will remain operative. A dual proportioning valve modulates the hydraulic pressure between the front and rear braking systems to prevent wheel lockup. A visual warning of low fluid level is given by a warning light activated by a switch in the master cylinder reservoir. The parking brake mechanically operates the rear brakes only. It is activated by a

handle

in

the center console between the

under severe braking conditions. The system performs this function by monitoring the rotational speed of each wheel and then controlling the brake line pressure to prevent wheel lock-up. An amber indicator lamp on the dash will flash if there is a malfunction in the system. The ABS system consists of the hydraulic unit, relay box, control unit and wheel speed sensors (see illustration). The

front seats.

The power brake booster, located in the engine compartment on the firewall, uses engine manifold vacuum and atmospheric pressure to provide assistance to the hydraulically operated brakes. After completing any operation involving the disassembly of any part of the brake system, always test drive the vehicle to check for proper braking performance before resuming normal driving. Test the brakes while driving on a clean, dry, flat surface. Conditions other than these can lead to inaccurate test results. Test the brakes at various speeds with both light and heavy pedal pressure. The vehicle should stop evenly without pulling to one side or the other. Avoid locking the brakes because this slides the tires and diminishes braking efficiency and control. Tires, vehicle load and front end alignment are factors which also affect braking performance.

control unit, located

2

ABS system Refer to

and

in

the passenger

Disc brake pads

-

replacement

Note: Disc brake pads should be replaced on both wheels at the same time. Work on one brake at a time, using the other, assembled

illustration 1.10

The ABS system was introduced in 1 988 designed to maintain vehicle control

brake, for reference

is

if

necessary.

Rear drum or disc brake

Parking brake cable rear

Power brake

unit

1.1

Front

Drake unit

com-

partment is essentially the "brain" for the ABS system. It accepts and processes information received from the wheel speed sensors and produces control commands for the relay box and hydraulic unit. Due to the complicated nature of this system, diagnosis and repair must be done by a dealer. Take care whenever working in the area of the wheels, suspension or brakes to avoid damaging the wheel speed sensors.

Typical brake system layout

Chapter 9

9-3

Brakes

1.10 Anti-lock Braking

Front disc brake

pad

replacement Refer to

illustrations 2.3, 2.4, 2.6, 2.8, 2.9

and 2.10 1 Whenever you

Hydraulic unit

Relay box Control unit Front rotor sensor

system, be aware that asbestos dust is present and be careful not to inhale any of it as this could be harmful to your health. Remove the cover from the brake fluid 2 reservoir

are working on the brake

1

2 3 4

the

and siphon

fluid into

about two ounces of a container and discard it. off

System (ABS) components 5 6 7 8

3

Loosen the

Front wheel speed sensor

System check connector Rear wheel speed sensor Rear rotor sensor

front

wheel

bolts, raise the

it securely on jackstands and remove the front wheels (see

front of the vehicle, support

illustration).

4

Remove

the two caliper bolts (see

illus-

tration).

and steering knuckle component layout

2.3 Front disc brake

1

Brake hose bolt

2 3 4 5 6

Caliper retaining bolts

7

8 9

Caliper housing

Outer brake pad

Hub

nut

Nut Front hub assembly

12

Brake disc Dust cover Steering knuckle

10 11

13

Piston

14

Retainer

15

Dust seal

16

Piston seal

17 18 19

Dust boot

20 21

I

and nut Bolts and nuts Bolt

9

,

Pin

Bushing Rubber cap Bleeder screw

',

v v^

New *"

N

part to be used

9-4

Chapter 9

2.4

The two

caliper retaining

2.9

remove the outer pad (see illustration). 7 Remove the inner pad by lifting it from the caliper. Inspect the caliper boot by gently peel-

8 ing

back the edge and checking

fluid

9 until

for signs of

leakage (see illustration). Push the caliper back into the piston it bottoms, using a C-clamp (see illus-

tration).

Place the inner pad in position and snap into the piston (see illustration).

10 it

Slide the outer

1 it

pad

into

place and snap

into the caliper.

12 13

Rotate the caliper back into position. Install the bolts and tighten them to the

specified torque.

14 1

Bleed the brakes (Section 15). Install the wheels and lower the vehicle.

Rear disc brake pad replacement Refer to

Remove

Push the caliper piston back with a C-clamp

Rotate the caliper up, clear of the disc. Release the clips with a screwdriver and

5

6

2.6

unsnapping the

bolts (arrows)

illustrations 2.

1

7

and 2.18

16 Raise the vehicle, support it securely on jackstands and remove the rear wheel. Disconnect the parking brake cable from the bracket and caliper lever.

Brakes

back the edge of the piston boot and check for corrosion and leaking fluid

the outboard pad by

2.8 Carefully peel

clips with a screwdriver

2.10 Install the inner

pad by snapping the

2.17 1987 rear disc brake assembly 1

5 6 7 8 9 10

Parking brake cable

2 3

Brake hose Guide pin and cover

4

Caliper

and pad

assembly

^

clip into the piston

-

exploded view

Hub cap Locknut Bearing Brake disc Mounting support Splash shield

Chapter 9

9-5

Brakes

2.18 1988 and later rear disc brake

assembly

-

exploded view

1

Parking brake cable

2 3 4 5 6 7 8

Brake hose Caliper

V-spring

Pad and shim Guide plate Mounting support Brake disc

Disc brake caliper 17

On 1987 models, remove

the guide pins

and detach the caliper (see illustration). Pry the pads out of the caliper with a screwdriver. 18 On 1988 and later models, remove the upper installation bolt and pivot the caliper down for access to the pads (see illustration). Remove the V-springs, brake pads, shims and guide plates. 19 Refer to Chapter 9 and inspect the brake disc. If the disc is damaged, replace it with a new one. On ABS equipped models, a new sensor wheel must be installed on the disc.

On

models, use needle nose pliers to turn the caliper piston clockwise and retract it to make enough room for the new, thicker pads. 21 On 1987 models, install the new pads in

20

all

the caliper.

Install

Removal 1

Remove

the cover from the brake fluid

and siphon off two-thirds of the fluid into a container and discard it. Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the front of 2 the vehicle, support securely on jackstands and remove the wheels. 3 If the caliper is to be removed from the vehicle, remove the brake line hose inlet fitting bolt and disconnect the fitting. 4 Remove the two mounting bolts and lift

specified torque.

Repeat the procedure on the other rear Pump the brake pedal sev-

the caliper from the vehicle.

the caliper

is

not to be removed from the vehicle, hang

it

If

out of the way with a piece of wire so the brake hose will not be damaged.

Installation 5

Inspect the mounting bolts for excessive

corrosion and the rubber bushings and dust

boots for tears and damage, replacing with new ones if necessary. Lubricate the contact surfaces of the bolts, bushings and dust boots with white lithium base grease prior to installation.

6

eral times before driving the vehicle to bring

and steering knuckle, install the bolts and tighten them to the specified torque. 7 Connect the inlet fitting (if removed) and install the retaining bolt. It will be necessary

pads into contact with the brake disc. Check the brake fluid level, topping it off if necessary. Make sure the brakes are working smoothly and make several low speed stops before taking the vehicle into a tion.

traffic situa-

wood to protect the using hydraulic pressure to force the piston out. Be sure to keep your fingers out of the way Use

caliper

a block of

when

it

brake. Warning:

the

4.1

reservoir

the caliper and tighten the

guide pins to the specified torque. 22 On 1988 and later models, install the shims, pads and guide plates and rotate the caliper up into position, tightening the installation bolt to the specified torque. Install the rear wheel and tighten the lug nuts to the

23

installation

Place the caliper

in

position over the

rotor

to bleed the brakes (Section 15)

if

the

fitting

was disconnected. 8

Install

the wheels and lower the vehicle.

4

Disc brake caliper

-

overhaul

Note: Purchase a brake caliper overhaul kit your particular vehicle before beginning this procedure. Refer to illustrations 4. 1, 4. 1 1, 4. 12 and 4. 14 for

Remove the caliper (Section 3) and brake pads (Section 2). There are two methods of removing the caliper piston. Step 4 details the procedure for removal with the caliper off the vehicle. With the brake line still 1

connected and the pads removed, the piston can be pushed out, using hydraulic pressure. Protect the caliper with a piece of wood or folded rags and take care to not place your fingers between the piston and the caliper. Have an assistant very slowly apply the brakes to push the piston out and be prepared for a rush of brake fluid as the piston is ejected (see illustration). 2

Clean the exterior of the brake caliper

with brake fluid (never use gasoline, kerosene or cleaning solvents), then place the caliper

on a clean workbench.

9

9-6

4.1

1

Chapter 9

Insert the piston seal into the

4.12 Press the piston firmly and evenly

groove

of the caliper

into the

Remove the caliper bleed screw. 3 4 If the piston has not been removed, place a wooden block or shop rag in the caliper as a cushion, then use compressed air to remove the piston from the caliper. Use only enough air pressure to ease the piston out of the bore. If the piston is blown out, even with the cushion in place, it may be damaged. Warning: Never place your fingers in front of the piston in an attempt to catch or protect it when applying compressed air. Serious injury could occur. Remove the retainer and dust seal from 5 the piston caliper bore.

Using a wood or plastic tool, remove the 6 piston seal from the groove in the caliper bore. Metal tools

7

Remove

may cause

Lubricate the dust boots, bushings and

pins with white lithium base grease and

install

the caliper. Lubricate the brake pad shim with a

14

coat of white lithium base grease and the brake pads (see illustration).

15

Install

light

install

the caliper and bleed the brakes

bore damage.

Disc brake rotor - inspection, removal and installation

5

them vigorously

to

remove as much

fluid

as

and 5.6 Raise the vehicle and place

Refer to

possible. Carefully examine the piston and caliper 9 bore for nicks, burrs, corrosion and loss of

1

illustrations 5.5

it

securely

on jackstands.

surface defects are present, parts

2

must be replaced although the caliper bore can be lightly polished with crocus cloth to remove light corrosion and stains. Inspect the mounting bolts, pins and bushings for corrosion and damage, replacing with new parts

3

Remove the wheel and tire. Remove the brake caliper assembly Section 3). Note: It is not necessary disconnect the brake hose. After removing

(refer to

to

to the

4

hose

will

hose because dam-

occur.

Inspect the rotor surfaces. Light scoring

or grooving

is

severe erosion

normal, but deep grooves or is not. If pulsating has been

noticed during application of the brakes, sus-

pect disc runout.

Attach a dial indicator to the caliper mounting bracket, turn the rotor and note the amount of runout (see illustration). Check both inboard and outboard surfaces. If the

the caliper

mounting

runout

is

more than the maximum

allowable,

the rotor must be removed from the vehicle

and taken

to an automotive

machine shop

for

resurfacing.

Using a micrometer, measure the thickness of the rotor (see illustration). If it is less than the minimum specified, replace the rotor with a new one. Also measure the disc thickness at several points to determine variations in the surface. Any variation over 0.0005-inch may cause pedal pulsations during brake application. If this condition exists and the disc thickness is not below the minimum, the rotor can be removed and taken to an automotive machine shop for resurfacing. 7 Special tools and techniques are required to remove the disc from the hub. Consequently, the hub should be removed (Chapter 10) and the assembly taken to your 6

(Section 15).

Clean the remaining parts with brake fluid. Allow them to drain and then shake

the caliper by the brake

age

5

tion).

13

4.14 Caliper boot, bushing and pin lubrication points (arrows)

install

the dust boots, pins and bush-

ings from the caliper ears.

If

bore to

as necessary. 10 When assembling, lubricate the piston bores and seals with clean brake fluid. 11 Position the seal in the caliper bore groove (see illustration). 12 Install the dust seal and retainer insert the piston into the caliper bore (see illustra-

8

plating.

Brakes

bolts,

hang the

caliper

out of the way on a piece of wire. Never hang

dealer or a properly equipped shop to have the disc turned or replaced.

6

Drum brake shoes

Refer to

-

replacement

illustrations 6.4a, 6.4b, 6.5, 6.6a,

17 and 6.18 Whenever working on the brake system, be aware that asbestos dust is present. It has

6.6b,

6. 7, 6.9, 6. 10, 6. 14, 6.

1

5.5

Checking the brake disc runout

5.6

Measuring the brake disc thickness

been proven to be harmful to your health, so be careful not to inhale it. 2 Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. 3 Remove the wheel. Note: All four rear shoes should be replaced at the same time, but to avoid mixing up parts, work on only one brake assembly at a time. 4 Remove the drum/hub assembly (Chapter 1) (see illustration). If the drum cannot be

Chapter 9

9-7

Brakes 6.4a Rear

drum brake component

Hub nut Brake drum

10

Anti-rattle

11

Clip

Return springs Hold down pins and springs Leading shoe Adjuster

12

Operating lever Brake line

Trailing

13 14

15

shoe

Parking brake wire

New

part

layout

New

to

sphng

Wheel cylinder bolt Wheel cylinder

16 17 18 19

Gasket

20

Pistons

21

Piston cups

22 23 24 25 26

Spring cups

Bolts

Brake backing plate Dust boots

Sphng Rubber cap Bleeder screw Steel ball

part to be used

be used

Shoe hold spring

Driver

6.4b Release the shoe hold

down

springs by inserting a screwdriver through the backing plate

removed

easily,

remove the plug

in

the back-

ing plate, insert a screwdriver through the

hole and press on the hold spring to widen

the shoe clearance (see illustration).

If

this

doesn't allow drum removal, loosen the parking brake lever adjusting nut to increase the

stroke.

5

Remove

the brake shoe return springs

(see illustration). Remove the hold 6

down

springs and pins

(see illustrations).

6.5

Use

pliers to

remove the

return springs

6.6a

Compress the hold down

rotate the pin to release

it

spring and from the spring

Remove

the leading shoe and the adjuster. Use a screwdriver to release the adjuster if necessary (see illustration). This will release the tension on the hold-down spring and ease the removal of the leading 7

shoe.

9

9-8

Chapter 9

Brakes Back

6.6b With the tension released, the hold spring can be lifted off

Remove

8

the trailing shoe and discon-

nect the parking brake wire.

Remove

9

the clip and disconnect the

operating lever from the shoe (see illustration).

10 Lightly lubricate the contact surfaces of the brake backing plate with white lithium base grease (see illustration). 11 Install the operating lever on the new trailing shoe. 12 Install the trailing shoe with the anti-ratspring

tle

13 14

in

down

plate

6.7 Insert a screwdriver into the adjuster quadrant

direction

shown

turned. If the drum will not "clean up" before the maximum drum diameter is reached in the machining operation, the drum will have to be replaced with a new one. Note: The maximum diameter is cast into each brake drum (see illustration). Install the brake drum/hub assembly 19

and turn

in

the

(arrows) to release the adjuster

and adjust the wheel bearings (Chapter 1). 20 Mount the wheel, install the wheel lugs and tighten to the specified torque, then

it

lower the vehicle. 21

Make

a

number

adjust the brakes action

is

of forward stops to

until

a satisfactory pedal

obtained.

place.

Connect the parking brake

Assemble

the

leading

wire.

shoe

and

connect the adjuster to the anti-ratspring and rotate the assembly into posi-

adjuster, tle

tion (see illustration).

down

1

Install

the hold

16 17

Install

the return springs.

springs.

Center the shoe assembly (see

illustra-

tion).

18 Inspect the brake drum for cracks, score marks, deep scratches and hard spots, which will appear as small discolored areas. If the hard spots cannot be removed with a fine cloth and/or if any of the other conditions listed above exist, the drum must be taken to an automotive machine shop to have

emery

6.9

Use a small screwdriver

to

6.10 Backing plate and wheel cylinder

remove

boot lubrication points

the clip retaining the adjuster lever to the trailing shoe

6.14 Connect the anti-rattle spring to the adjuster using pliers

6.17 With

all

of the

assembly back and

components

forth to

installed,

ensure that

all

rock the brake parts are seated

Chapter 9

9-9

Brakes Installation

Place the wheel cylinder in position and screw the fluid inlet nut into the cylinder finger tight, making sure it is not cross

16

threaded.

17

them

Install

the retaining bolts and tighten

securely.

18 Tighten the inlet nut securely and install brake shoe assembly. 19 Bleed the brakes (Section 15) and lower the vehicle.

8

The maximum diameter allowed marked inside the brake drum

6.18

Drum brake wheel

7

cylinder

-

removal, overhaul and installation

Removal Refer to

it

illustration 7.4

Raise the rear of the vehicle and support

1

securely on jackstands.

Remove

2

the brake shoe assembly (Sec-

tion 6).

Carefully clean

3

all dirt

and foreign mate-

from around the wheel cylinder. 4 Disconnect and plug the fluid inlet tube and remove the wheel cylinder retaining bolts rial

(see illustration).

Remove

5

the wheel cylinder from the

brake backing plate and place workbench.

it

7.4

is

on a clean

Wheel cylinder inlet tube and retaining bolts (B)

(A)

8 Remove the dust boots and pistons from the cylinder bore and then separate the boots from the piston assembly. Push from one end of the piston to 9 remove the rubber cups and piston assembly from the cylinder body. 10 Clean the wheel cylinder with brake fluid, denatured alcohol or brake system cleaner. Do not, under any circumstances, use petroleum based solvents to clean brake parts.

Use compressed air to remove excess from the wheel cylinder and to blow out the passages. 12 Check the cylinder bore for corrosion 11

fluid

and scoring. Crocus cloth may be used to remove light corrosion and stains, but the cylinder must be replaced with a new one if the defects cannot be removed easily, or if the bore

Overhaul 6 Obtain a wheel cylinder rebuild kit from your dealer or an automotive parts store. 7 Remove the bleeder screw and steel ball. It may be necessary to tap the wheel cylinder body on a block of wood to dislodge the ball.

8.3

is scored. 13 Lubricate the new seals and the cylinder bore with clean brake fluid. 14 Assemble the piston components and

insert the

assembly

into the piston,

making

sure the boots are properly seated.

15

Install

the steel ball and bleeder screw.

Master cylinder retaining nuts (A), fluid pipe connections and level sensor connector (C)

(B)

8.4

Master cylinder - removal, overhaul and installation

Refer to

illustrations 8.3, 8.4, 8.5

and

8. 1

1 A master cylinder overhaul kit should be purchased before beginning this procedure. The kit will include all the replacement parts necessary for the overhaul procedure. The rubber replacement parts, particularly the seals, are the key to fluid control within the master cylinder. As such, it's very important that they be installed securely and facing in the proper direction. Be careful during the rebuild procedure that no grease or mineralbased solvents come in contact with the rub-

ber parts.

Completely cover the front fender and cowling area of the vehicle, as brake fluid can

2

ruin painted

surfaces

if it

is

spilled.

Disconnect the brake line connections. Rags or newspapers should be placed under the master cylinder to soak up the fluid that will drain out. Unplug the fluid level sensor connector, remove the two master cylinder mounting nuts and lift the master cylinder from the vehicle (see illustration). 4 Drain any remaining fluid from the reservoir. Remove the reservoir by grasping the master cylinder firmly and rocking the reservoir from side to side (see illustration). Place the master cylinder in the vertical 5 position (with the front end down), depress 3

Grasp the master cylinder firmly and rock the reservoir from side to side to remove it

9-10

Chapter 9

Brakes

® 8.5

Master cylinder component layout Fluid lever sensor Brake line pipes Nuts Master cylinder assembly

1

2 3 4

5 6 7 8 9 10

Reservoir cap Reservoir

11

Primary piston assembly

12

Secondary piston assembly Master cylinder body

Bushings Stopper screw O-ring

Stop ring

13

8.17 Secondary piston seals

(shaded areas) installation

the primary piston and remove the snap ring

depress the secondary piston. Remove the O-ring and

15 Install the valve shim on the front of the secondary piston. Place the seal (open end forward) on the piston. 16 Install the center seal onto the secondary piston with the open end forward. 17 Install the rear secondary piston seal with the open end toward the rear (see illus-

retaining screw.

tration).

(see illustration).

Remove

6 it.

the primary piston and discard

The overhaul

kit will

have a replacement

unit.

7

8

Use a wooden dowel

to

With the master cylinder

position with the rear

on a block

of

wood

to

in

the vertical

end downward, tap it remove the secondary

Remove

the spring from the front of the

secondary piston. 10 From the secondary piston, remove the rear spreader and cylinder cup seal, the valve shims and the two seals from the rear of the piston. 1

Remove

20

Lubricate the primary and secondary

bore using a

wooden dowel. Depress

the spring slightly and insert the set screw. 21

Insert the primary piston with the spring

facing forward. Depress install

the reservoir bushings, cap and

fluid.

Push the secondary piston assembly

into the

22

the snap

it

slightly

and then

ring.

Lubricate the reservoir bushings, lay the

and press the

float.

reservoir on a hard surface

Clean the master cylinder and inspect the bore for corrosion and damage. If any

master cylinder body onto the reservoir,

12

corrosion or

damage

is

found, replace the

Install

the reservoir level float and baffle

master cylinder body with a new one unless

assembly.

24 Whenever the master cylinder is removed, the complete hydraulic system must be bled. The time required to bleed the system can be reduced if the master cylinder is filled with fluid and primed or "bench bled" before the master cylinder is installed on the

Inspect the reservoir for cracks and worn bushings, replacing with new components as necessary. 14 Lubricate all components prior to

assembly with clean brake

fluid.

wood dowel

all

the

way

in

fluid

and

using the

or a Phillips screwdriver. Before

releasing the piston block the brake line ports

keep air from being drawn back into the master cylinder, then release the piston. Repeat the procedure until only brake fluid

to

Be

air) is

expelled from the brake

careful not to

let

line ports.

the reservoir run dry dur-

25 Place the master cylinder in position over the power brake reservoir studs and install the brake line flare nuts finger tight, making sure not to cross thread them. 26 Install the master cylinder retaining nuts, tightening

them

securely.

27 Tighten the brake line flare nuts securely and plug in the level sensor connector. 28 Bleed the brakes at the wheel bleed valves (refer to Section

1 5).

using a rocking motion.

23

the imperfections are very minor.

13

the reservoir with brake

ing the bleeding process.

ton retaining screw.

19

Fill

slowly push the piston

(no

Place the O-ring on the secondary pis-

pistons with clean brake

piston.

9

18

vehicle.

9

Hydraulic brake hoses and lines inspection and replacement

-

About every six months, with the vehicle raised and placed securely on jackstands, the flexible hoses which connect the steel brake lines with the front and rear brake assemblies should be inspected for cracks, 1

Chapter 9

9.2 Front disc brake

hose

10.3 Adjusting the parking brake stroke

clip locations

chafing of the outer cover, leaks, blisters and

the bracket or steel

other damage. These are important and vul-

6

nerable parts of the brake system and inspection should be complete. A light and mirror will prove helpful for a thorough check. If a hose exhibits any of the above conditions, replace it as follows:

rate the female fittings

Front brake hose Refer to

illustration

When

2

line pipe, use a back-up wrench and loosen the flare nut, then remove the clip (see illustration). When connecting, install the clip, then tighten the flare nut. When installing make sure all bolt 3 threads are clean. 4 When the brake hose installation is complete, there should be no kinks in the hose. Also, make sure the hose does not contact any part of the suspension. Check this by turning the wheels to the extreme left and right positions. If the hose makes con-

lation

instal-

as necessary.

Rear brake hose 5

hose

15

lines.

clips with pliers

and sepa-

from the brackets.

Unbolt the hose retaining

clip

and

remove the hose. 8 Without twisting the hose, install the female ends of the hose in the frame brackets. 9 Install the clips retaining the female end

Using a back-up wrench, attach the female fittings. Again, be careful not to bend the bracket or steel 10

9.2

disconnecting a flexible hose and

remove the hose and correct the

Remove any

to the bracket.

a brake

tact,

7

9-11

Brakes

Using a back-up wrench, disconnect the at both ends, being careful not to bend

steel line fittings to the

line. 1

Check

that the

hose

installation did not

loosen the frame bracket. Retorque the bracket if necessary. Fill the master cylinder reservoir and 12 bleed the system (refer to Section 13).

Steel brake lines

prefabricated lengths are not avail-

length, leaving about 1/2-inch extra for flaring

16 and

Install

the fittings onto the cut tubing

ends using an ISO flaring tool. 17 Using a tubing bender, bend the tubing to match the shape of the old brake line. 18 Tube flaring and bending can usually be performed by a local auto parts store if the proper equipment is not available. 19 When installing the brake line, leave at least 3/4-inch clearance between the line and any moving parts. flare the

10

checking and

Parking brake adjustment

steel lines,

Checking 1

up on the parking brake handle and

Pull

make sure that sure that full engagement takes place between 7 and 9 clicks.

Adjustment 2

illustration 10.3

Start the engine,

pump

the brake pedal

two or three times and shut the engine off. 3 Remove the parking brake cover and use a screwdriver to turn the adjusting nut

11.2 Brake pedal assembly installation

until

details

the lever stroke

is

within specification

(see illustration). The parking brake warning

Split pin

light

Clevis pin

lever

on the dash should illuminate is pulled one notch.

11

Brake pedal assembly

2 3

Nut

4

Spring washer

washer

5 6 7 8 9 10

Plain

11

Pad Rubber stopper

12

steel tubing

the ends.

Refer to

7

recommended

and fittings to match the line to be replaced. Determine the correct length by measuring the old brake line, and cut the new tubing to

When

it becomes necessary to replace use only double wall steel tubing. Never substitute copper tubing because copper is subject to fatigue cracking and corrosion. The outside diameter of the tubing is used for sizing. 14 Auto parts stores and brake supply houses carry various lengths of prefabricated brake line.

13

If

able, obtain the

Bolt

Return spring Pedal Bushings Shaft

*Xi

and Refer to 1

-

after the

removal

installation

illustration 11.2

Remove

the under dash

air

duct for

access. 2

Remove

the

split pin

and withdraw the

clevis pin (see illustration).

3

Remove

the through bolt, nut and wash-

ers.

4

Disconnect the return spring and

pedal from the vehicle.

lift

the

9

9-12

Chapter 9

Brakes

Inspect the assembly for worn bushings,

5

bent or

damaged

worn or deteriorated and damaged or weak

pad, bent through bolt

lever

return spring. 1

Prior to installation, lubricate contact the

6

surfaces of the through bolt, bushings and clevis pin with white lithium base grease. Installation is the reverse of removal. 7 After installation, adjust the pedal height 8

and play (Chapter

Parking brake

12.1

pedal,

assembly Screw

2 3

Parking brake

4

Adjusting nut

5 6

Bolts

Covers switch connector

1).

Parking brake lever

Parking brake assembly removal and installation

12

Refer to

-

assembly

7

Grip

8

Push button

9

Return spring

illustration 12.

Remove

1

details

the parking brake cover (see

illustration).

Disconnect the switch. Remove the adjustment screw. 4 Remove the retaining bolts, disconnect the parking brake cable and lift the handle assembly from the vehicle. 5 Inspect the sector and ratchet pawl for 2

3

damaged teeth and check the return spring make sure it is not weak or damaged, replacing as necessary with new compo-

13.2 Parking brake cable installation details

to

1

Cable connector

Lubricate the sector and ratchet teeth

3

Bolts

with white lithium-based grease prior

4

Adjusting nut

5

Cable assembly

nents.

6

lightly

to installation.

7

Installation

and Refer to

to

shoe operating lever

the reverse of removal.

removal

installation

illustration

13.2

Apply grease

Raise the rear of the vehicle and support

1 it

is

Parking brake cable

13

Clip

2

securely on jackstands.

Remove the cable clip (see illustration). Remove the trailing brake shoe assem-

2

3

bly (Section 6)

and disconnect the cable from

the shoe operating lever.

Remove

4

the retaining bolts and the

adjusting nut and remove the cable assembly from the vehicle. Installation is the reverse of removal. 5 Prior to installation, apply white lithium base grease to the cable grommet. After installation, turn

at a

is

the adjusting nut

exchange

unit

be

installed rather than trying

to overhaul the original booster.

until

the equalizer

90-degree angle to the front brake

3

Remove

the mounting nuts which hold

the master cylinder to the power brake unit

(see illustration). Unplug the brake fluid level sensor connector and position the master cylinder out of the way, being careful not to strain the lines leading to the master cylinder. If there is any doubt as to the flexibility of the lines, disconnect them at the cylinder and plug the ends.

cable.

4

Disconnect the vacuum hose leading to power brake booster. Cover

the front of the

14

Power brake booster inspection, removal

-

and

installation

Refer to

illustration 14.3

The power brake

unit requires no spemaintenance apart from periodic inspection of the hoses and inspection of the air filter beneath the boot at the pedal pushrod 1

cial

end.

2

Dismantling of the power brake unit If a problem develops, recommended that a new or factory

requires special tools. it

is

the end of the hose.

5

Inside the vehicle,

remove the under access. Remove the and disconnect the

dash blower air duct for split pin and clevis pin power brake pushrod from the brake pedal. Do not force the pushrod to the side when disconnecting

it.

Now remove

the four booster mounting nuts and carefully lift the unit out of the engine compartment. 7 Whin installing, loosely install the four

6

mounting nuts and then connect the pushrod to the brake pedal. Tighten the nuts

and

reconnect the vacuum hose and master

If the hydraulic brake lines were disconnected, the entire brake system should be bled to eliminate any air which has entered the system (refer to Section 1 5).

cylinder.

15

Hydraulic system

-

bleeding

Bleeding of the hydraulic system is nec1 essary to remove air whenever it is introduced into the brake system. 2 It may be necessary to bleed the system at all four brakes if air has entered the system due to low fluid level, or if the brake lines have been disconnected at the master cylinder. If a brake line was disconnected only at a wheel, then only that wheel cylinder (or caliper) must be bled. 4 If a brake line is disconnected at a fitting located between the master cylinder and any of the brakes, that part of the system served by the disconnected line must be bled. 5 If the master cylinder has been removed from the vehicle, refer to Section 8 for the bench bleeding procedure before proceeding with the procedure which follows.

3

Chapter 9 New

9-13

Brakes

part to be used

14.3

Power brake booster installation details

1

Split pin

2 3 4 5 6

Fork and nut Fluid level sensor connector Brake line pipes

7

8

9 1

on the suspected of having air in the bore, the master cylinder must be bled before any wheel cylinder (or caliper) is bled. Follow Steps 7 through 16 to bleed the master cylinder while it is installed on the vehicle. 7 Remove the vacuum reserve from the brake power booster by applying the brake several times with the engine off. 8 Remove the master cylinder reservoir cover and fill the reservoirs with brake fluid, then keep checking the fluid level often during the bleeding operation, adding fluid as necessary to keep the reservoirs full. Rein6

If

the master cylinder

vehicle but

stall

9

is

known

is

installed

to have, or

is

the cover.

10

Disconnect the forward brake

line

con-

Allow brake

fluid to fill the master cylinbegins to flow from the forward line connector port. Have a container and shop rags handy to catch and clean up until

air

from the

it

held depressed, open

brake pedal released slowly. 14 Wait 15 seconds (important). 15 Repeat the sequence, including the 15 second wait, until all air is removed from the

the bleeder valve just enough to allow a flow

bore.

16

After the forward port has

pletely

purged

of

air,

been com-

bleed the rear port

in

the

same manner. To bleed the

wheel cylinders Steps 7 and 8. 18 Have an assistant on hand, as well as a supply of new brake fluid, an empty clear 17

or calipers,

first

individual

refer to

plastic container, a length of 3/16-inch plas-

rubber or vinyl tubing to fit over the bleeder valve and a wrench to open and close the bleeder valve. The vehicle may have to be raised and placed on jackstands for clearance.

19

Beginning at the

the bleeder valve

where

right rear

slightly,

wheel, loosen

then tighten

snug but can

it

to a

be loos-

11 Reconnect the forward brake line to the master cylinder. 12 Have an assistant depress the brake pedal very slowly (one time only) and hold it

ened quickly and easily. 20 Place one end of the tubing over the bleeder valve and submerge the other end in

down. 13 Loosen the forward brake

21

brake

fluid in

it

While the pedal

is

Watch for air bubsubmerged end of the tube.

of fluid to leave the valve.

bles to exit the

When

the fluid flow slows after a couple of seconds, close the valve again and have your assistant release the pedal.

Repeat Steps 21 and 22 until no more seen leaving the tube, then tighten the bleeder valve and proceed to the left rear wheel, the right front wheel and the left front wheel, in that order, and perform the same procedure. Be sure to check the fluid in the 23

air is

point

the

hold the pedal firmly depressed.

22

spilled fluid.

line at

Nuts Master cylinder assembly Hose clamps Vacuum hose Booster unit Gasket

bore, retighten the connection, then have the

tic,

nection at the master cylinder.

der bore

master cylinder to purge the

Clevis pin

is

still

the container.

Have the assistant pump the brakes a

few times to get pressure

in

the system, then

master cylinder reservoir frequently. Never use old brake fluid because it attracts moisture which will deteriorate the brake system components. 25 Fill the master cylinder with fluid at the end of the operation. 26 If any difficulty is experienced in bleeding the hydraulic system, or if an assistant is not available, a pressure bleeding kit is a worthwhile investment. If connected in accordance with the instructions, each bleeder valve can be opened in turn to allow the fluid to be pressure ejected until it is clear of air bubbles without the need to replenish the master cylinder reservoir during the process.

24

9-14

Chapter 9

Brakes

Notes

10-1

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering Contents

Section

Section Bleeding the power steering system Front lower control arm - removal and installation Front strut damper assembly - removal and installation

20

and

Steering knuckle/hub assembly

9

Steering system

9

10

installation

removal and

7

Power steering pump belt - adjustment See Chapter 1 Power steering pump belt - removal and installation See Chapter 1 Power steering pump - removal and installation 19 Rack and pinion boot seals - replacement 17 Rack and pinion steering assembly - removal and installation 18 Rear hub and bearing assembly removal and installation See Chapter 1 Rear strut assembly - removal and installation Rear suspension lateral and trailing link - removal

Steering column

-

Steering wheel Stabilizer bar

-

-

installation -

removal and

installation

general information

removal and installation removal and installation -

Suspension system - general information Suspension system - inspection Three-way damping control switches removal and installation Tie rod end - removal and installation Wheel alignment - general information Wheel and tire - removal and installation Wheels and tires

14 15 12 13 6 4 5

1

16 3 2 1

Specifications

Torque specifications

Ft-ibs

M-kg

(unless otherwise indicated)

Front suspension Driveaxle locknut

Upper Lower

strut strut

damper nuts damper nuts and

bolts

and nut Lower suspension arm through-bolts and nuts Balljoint-to-steering knuckle bolt

Stabilizer bar bracket bolts

116 to 174 25 to 34 69 to 86 32 to 40 69 to 86 32 to 40

16 to 24 3.0 to 6.4 9.5 to 11.9

4.4 to 5.5 9.5 to 11.9 4.4 to 5.5

Rear suspension

Upper Lower

strut

strut

damper nuts damper bolts and nuts

Lateral link through-bolt Lateral link-to-crossmember

Lateral link-to-rear

hub spindle

Trailing link-to-body Trailing link-to-rear

hub spindle

Trailing link-to-stabilizer bar

16 to 20 69 to 86

2.2 to 2.7

46 to 55 69 to 86 69 to 86 43 to 54 40 to 50 23 to 34

6.1 to 7.5

22 to 33 13 to 20 23 to 34

3.0 to 4.5

9.5 to 11.9 9.5 to

1 1

.9

9.5 to 11.9 6.0 to 7.5 5.5 to 6.9 3.2 to 4.7

Steering Tie rod

end nut

Intermediate shaft nut

Rack and

pinion body-to-chassis

1.8 to 2.7

3.2 to 4.7

10

10-2

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering

CAMBER

METRIC TIRE SIZES 80

/

/

TIRE TYPE P-PASSENGER T-TEMPORARY

C-COMMERCIAL

RIM DIAMETER

ASPECT RATIO

(INCHES)

(SECTION HEIGHT) (SECTION WIDTH)

13 14 15

SECTION WIDTH (MILLIMETERS)

CASTER

70 75 80

CONSTRUCTION TYPE R-RADIAL B-BIAS - BELTED

185 195 205

D-DIAGONAL

(BIAS)

ETC

FRONT OF VEHICLE

+

X TOE-IN

1.1

Metric size code

3.1

Caster,

(Y-X)

camber and

toe-in angles

ments made

1

Wheels and

tires

-

Wheel and

general

information Refer to

illustration

that tires are replaced

With the car on a level surface, the parkon and the car in gear (manual transaxles should be in Reverse, automatic transaxles should be in Park) remove the wheel cover (if equipped) and loosen, but do not remove, the wheel lug nuts. 2 Using a jack positioned in the proper 1

1.

in

pairs

on the same axle, but if only one tire is being replaced, be sure it's the same size, structure and tread design as the other. Because tire pressure has a substantial effect on handling and wear, the pressure on all tires should be checked at least once a month or before any extended trips (see Chapter 1). Wheels must be replaced if they are bent, dented, leak air, have elongated bolt holes, are heavily rusted, out of vertical symmetry or if the lug nuts won't stay tight. Wheel repairs that use welding or peening are not recommended. Tire and wheel balance is important to the overall handling, braking and performance of the vehicle. Unbalanced wheels can adversely affect handling and ride characteristics as well as tire life. Whenever a tire is installed on a wheel, the tire and wheel should be balanced by a shop with the proper equipment.

removal and

installation

All models covered by this manual are equipped with metric-sized radial tires (see illustration). Use of other size or type of tires may affect the ride and handling of the vehicle. Don't mix different types of tires, such as radials and bias belted, on the same vehicle as handling may be seriously affected. It's

recommended

tire

ing brake

location

on the

car, raise the car just

enough

so that the tire clears the ground. Remove the lug nuts. 3 4 Remove the wheel and tire. If a flat tire is being replaced, ensure that 5 there is adequate ground clearance for the new inflated tire, then mount the wheel and tire on the wheel studs. 6 Apply a light coat of spray lubricant or light oil to the wheel stud threads and install the lug nuts snugly with the cone shaped end facing the wheel.

Lower the car until the tire contacts the ground and the wheel studs are centered in their wheel holes. Tighten the lug nuts evenly and in a 8 cross pattern, and torque to specs. Lower the car completely and remove 9 7

the jack.

to the wheels so they are in proper angular relationship to the suspension and the ground. Wheels that are out of proper alignment not only affect steering control, but also increase tire wear (see illustration). Getting the proper wheel alignment is a very exacting process, one in which complicated and expensive machines are necessary to perform the job properly. Because of this, you should have a technician with the proper equipment perform these tasks. We will, however, use this space to give you a basic idea of what is involved with wheel alignment so you can better understand the process

and deal

intelligently with the

mally only a fraction of an inch. Toe-in adjust-

ment is controlled by the tie-rod end position on the tie-rod. Incorrect toe-in will cause the tires to wear improperly by making them scrub against the road surface.

Camber is the tilting of the wheels from when viewed from the front of the vehicle. When the wheels tilt out at the top, the camber is said to be positive (+). When the the vertical

3

Wheel alignment

wheels

general

Refer to

illustration 3.

A wheel

alignment refers to the adjust-

does

parallel rolling of the wheels. In a vehicle with zero toe-in, the distance between the front edges of the wheels will be the same as the distance between the rear edges of the wheels. The actual amount of toe-in is nor-

Replace the wheel cover.

information

that

Toe-in is the turning in of the front wheels (and rear wheels on later models). The purpose of a toe specification is to ensure

1

-

shop

the work.

(-).

tilt

in at

The amount

of

from the

vertical

called the

camber

amount

camber measured

the top the tilt

is

and

this

is

negative

in

degrees

measurement

is

angle. This angle affects the

of tire tread

which contacts the road

Chapter 10

4.1

and compensates for changes in the suspension geometry when the vehicle is cornering or traveling over an undulating surface. Caster

is

the

tilting

of the top of the front

steering axis from the vertical.

the rear front

is

is

positive caster

and a

A tilt

tilt toward toward the

negative caster.

Front and rear suspension component layout

This design uses a combination spring and

adjustments to the

shock absorber assembly mounted

left

to the knuckle (see illustration). trol

A

is

Suspension system

-

general

information

and 4.3 These models are equipped with inde-

Refer to

illustrations 4.

1,

4.2

pendent front and rear strut-type suspension.

4WS

system should be

to your dealer.

Some models

lower con-

arm that pivots on the chassis

attached to the knuckle. At the

directly

are also equipped with a

way damping system which adjusts the damping of the shock absorbers, either man-

also

three

rear, trailing

used

to locate the knuckle. In addi-

ually or automatically. This

tion, stabilizer

bars are used at the front and

by actuators mounted

links are

is

accomplished

at the top of the struts

that rotate the control rod approximately 60°

on some models. Some later models are equipped with a 4-Wheel Steering (4WS) system. This system connects the front steering gear to a solenoid operated steering gear at the rear wheels by way of a steering angle shaft and allows the rear wheels to be steered under certain conditions (see illustration). All checks and rear

4

10-3

Suspension and steering

to vary damping action (see illustration). These models use gas shock absorbers, while non-adjustable models use conventional sealed hydraulic units.

Never attempt to heat or straighten any suspension part, as this can weaken the metal or

in

other

ways damage the

part.

4.2 4-wheel steering

system components exploded view

10

® 1

2 3 4 5

Steering angle

7

Solenoid valve

8

Rear steering gear assembly Steering wheel

transfer shaft

Reserve tank Oil

6

pup

Front steering

assembly Speed sensor

9 10

Control unit

n

Steering shaft

Relay and timer

10-4

Chapter 10

Suspension and steering

Actuator 6.3a Front stabilizer bar

component

3^0

c

^iife

Nuts

7

ft®£

A- A Coss

layout

2-

Retainer

and

bushing

3 section

Bolt, retainer

and

bushing

Control rod

4

Bushings, retainers

and spacers Norma

Sport

5 6

Splash shields

7

Bushing and

Bolts

bracket 8 j.

Stabilizer

bar

Control rod

Selector valve

4.3

5

The optional three way damping system operates the strut control rod to change the damping action

Suspension system

Stabilizer bar

6

inspection

-

-

removal and

installation

Suspension components should normally last a long time, except in cases where damage has occurred due to an accident. The suspension parts, however, should be checked from time to time for signs of wear which will result in a loss of precision handling and riding comfort. 2 Check that the suspension components have not sagged due to wear. Do this by parking the car on a level surface and visually 1

Refer to illustrations 6.3a, 6.3b,

and

6.8,

6. 1

Raise the vehicle and support

1

more on the

Put the car

brake.

Gnp

in

2

On

front

wheels and splash shields.

the front stabilizer bar,

driver's side of

gear and take

off

the hand

the steering wheel at the top with

both hands and rock

it back and forth. Listen any squeaks or metallic noises. Feel for free play. If any of these conditions is found, have an assistant do the rocking while the source of the trouble is located. 4 Check the shock absorbers, as these are the parts of the suspension system most likely to wear out first. If there is any evidence

for

of fluid leakage, they will

need replacing.

Bounce the car up and down

vigorously.

arm.

6.3b Rear stabilizer bar component layout

It

should feel stiff and well damped by the shock absorbers. As soon as the bouncing is stopped the car should return to its normal position without excessive up and down movement. Do not replace the shock absorbers as single units, but rather in pairs unless failure has occurred at low mileage. Check all rubber bushings for signs of 5 deterioration and cracking. If necessary, replace the rubber portions of the suspension

it

securely

on jackstands.

the vehicle. 3

1

2 3 4

Remove

sion

arm

4

Remove Remove

5

vehicle.

checking that the car sits level. This will normally occur only after many miles and will usually appear

6.9

3

Nuts Bushing and retainer Retainer, bushing and bolt Retainers, bushings and pacer

5

Bolts

6 7

Bushings and brackets Srabilizer bar

remove the

the stabilizer bar-to-suspen-

bolts (see illustrations).

the bushing and bracket bolts.

the rear stabilizer bar from the

10-5

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering 6

On

the front stabilizer bar,

remove the

rack and pinion assembly retaining bolts, pry

White

line

the assembly up and then remove the bar by

working it past the rack and pinion and out through the left wheel well. 7 Inspect the bushings to be sure they are not hardened, cracked or excessively worn, carefully

6.9 The white line on the stabilizer bar must line up with the edge of the left bushing during installation

and replace 8

if

necessary.

Place the stabilizer bar

sure the bar

is

in

position.

Make

inserted with the bushing

alignment mark on the

left

side of the vehicle

(see illustration). Install the front stabilizer bar left side bushing with the edge aligned with the mark and the notch facing the rear of the vehicle (see illustration). 10 After installing the bushing bracket

9

Front

bolts, tighten

them

to the specified torque.

bolts and nuts and them securely with one inch of thread exposed after tightening (see illustration). 11

6.8 Front stabilizer bar bushing

Install

the end

tighten

alignment mark (arrow)

7

Front lower control

arm

-

removal and installation Refer to

illustrations 7.4

and

7.8

Raise the front of the car and support on jackstands. 1

6.1

1

After tightening,

the stabilizer bar link bolt must have one inch of thread exposed

it

If only one lower control arm is being removed, disconnect only that end of the stabilizer bar. If both lower control arms are being removed, remove the stabilizer bar

2

completely. Refer to Section

3

Remove

the

6.

wheel(s)

and

splash

shield(s).

4

Remove

the control arm bushing bolts

that secure the control

7.4 Front lower control

arm

arm

to the engine cra-

dle (see illustration).

installation details 1

Splash shield

2 3 4 5 6

Nuts, retainer

7

Lower arm

8

Balljoint

9

Rubber bushing

and bushing

Bushings, retainers and spacer Bolt, retainer

Lower arm

and bushing and nuts and nut

bolts

Balljoint bolt

dust boot

10

10-6

Chapter 10

Suspension and steering Front strut

8

damper assembly

-

removal and installation Refer to port

The control arm bolts should tightened to the specified torque after the vehicle weight has been lowered onto the suspension

it

securely on jackstands.

blies

(see illustration).

4

In

upper switch sis

Stmt damper assembly

control

11).

the four strut damper-to-chas-

stud nuts. the remaining strut-to-knuckle

damper

assembly from the vehicle. Inspect the assembly for oil leakage, 8 damage to the dust boot and rust or damage to the spring. Further disassembly of the strut requires a spring compressor and special techniques and this should be left to a dealer or a properly equipped shop.

and nuts

4

way damping

nut and bolt and lower the strut

clip

Steering knuckle bolts

the three

equipped) (Section

Remove

7

installation details

Hose

(if

remove the

cover (see illustration).

Remove

6

damper assembly

the engine compartment,

strut

Remove

5

1

8.4

the clip and disconnect the brake hose from the strut. Remove the strut-to-knuckle nuts and 3 then remove one of the nut and bolt assem-

7.8

2 3

and

Remove

2

8.3 Front strut

illustrations 8.3

Raise the front of the vehicle and sup-

1

Nuts

9

Installation

is

the reverse of removal, all fasteners to the

taking care to tighten specified torque.

assembly - removal, inspection and installation Rear

9

Refer to In

1

strut

illustration 9.

the rear compartment of the car

remove the

rear panel for access.

On

three

way damping control equipped models, remove the adjuster switch (Section 11). Remove the two upper strut-to-chassis stud nuts (see illustration).

Raise the rear of the vehicle and support

2 it

securely with jackstands.

Remove the clip and disconnect the brake hose from the strut. 4 Remove the two strut-to-steering knuckle nuts and bolts and lower the strut assembly from the vehicle. Inspect the strut for oil leaks, tears or 5 damage to the dust boot and rust or damage of the spring. Further disassembly of the strut 3

5

Remove

the balljoint-to-steering knuckle

nut and then disconnect the balljoint from the steering knuckle, using a pry bar

if

necessary.

Lower the control arm from the vehicle. 7 Inspect the control arm bushings for hardening, cracking or excessive wear and the balljoint and dust boot for damage and wear. Replacing these components requires special tools and techniques, so the control arm assembly should be taken to a dealer or properly equipped shop to have these proce6

dures performed.

lower control arm is the reverse of the removal procedure. Note: Do not tighten the lower control arm-toengine cMdle bushing bolts to their specified torque until the car has been lowered to the ground and its full weight is on the suspension (see illustration). 8

8.4

The

front strut cover can be

by pulling

it

off the

removed

studs

assembly requires a spring compressor and special techniques and this should be left to your dealer or a properly equipped shop. 6

Installation

is

the reverse of removal,

taking care to tighten

all

fasteners to the

specified torque.

10

Installation of the

Rear suspension lateral and - removal and

trailing links

installation

Refer to 1 it

illustration 10.4

Raise the rear of the vehicle and support securely on jackstands.

10-7

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering Remove

2

the fuel tank (Chapter

4).

Mark the position of the adjustment star wheel and nut for reinstallation to the same position. Moving the nut and star wheel will 3

affect the rear

wheel toe

in,

so

this

impor-

is

tant.

Remove

4 strut damper assembly component layout

Rear

Lower mounting bolt Hose clip Upper mounting nut Strut damper assembly

the

link-to-chassis

lateral

crossmember retaining bolts, nuts and bushings and disconnect the stabilizer bar link (if equipped) (see illustration). 5 Remove the lateral links from the vehicle.

Remove Remove

6 7

the parking brake bracket

bolt.

the through bolts and lower the

from the vehicle. is the reverse of removal. Install all bolts temporarily and then lower the vehicle weight onto the wheels before tightening to the specified torque. 9 Have the rear wheel toe in checked by a dealer or properly equipped shop. trailing link

8

Installation

Three way damping control switches - removal and

1 1

installation

Refer to

illustration 11.2

Open

1

the hood and remove the rubber

cover to gain access to the front suspension switches or open the trunk or hatch

strut

and remove the

rear inner panel for

access to

the rear suspension switches.

2

Unplug the connector, remove the two screws and lift the switch from the

letaining

top of the strut (see illustration). Installation is the reverse of removal. 3

12

Steering system information

Refer to

-

general

illustration 12.1

models are equipped with rack and pinion steering. The components making up this system are the steering wheel, steering column, intermediate shaft, rack and pinion All

ft

\

F

P^ "^^Bi

S&4

•

ll

H

7

2 3 4

5 6

Nuts Bushing and retainer Retainer, bushing and bolt Retainers, bushing and spacer Bolt

and nut

Through-bolt, nut

and spacer

and

trailing link installation details

7

\

4P0fP

/

Lateral links

8 9 10

Bolt

11

Trailing link

Nut Bolt 1 1

.2

10

LJI \ wA

™ 10.4 Typical rear suspension lateral

1

|\*

Removing the rear three-way damping control switch

A

10-8

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering 2

1

13.2 Pry out the

ornament

for

access to the

steering wheel cover screws

12.1 1

2 3 4 5 6 7

8 9 10

Steering

Horn cap Lockout Steering wheel Screws Steering column covers Harness couplers Screws Lower panel

11

Bolt

12

Nuts

13

Bolts

14

Steering shaft

Combination switch

15

Bolt

16

Dash

17 18 19

Nuts

a manual system, the motion of turnis

and pinion assembly.

Teeth on the pinion shaft are meshed with teeth on the rack, so when the shaft is turned, the rack is moved left or right in the rack and pinion housing. Attached to each end of the rack are

tie

rods

that, in turn are

attached to

the steering knuckles on the front wheels. This

left

and

right

movement

of the rack

is

the

which turns the wheels. The power steering system operates in essentially the same way as the manual system, except that the power rack and pinion system uses hydraulic pressure to boost the manual steering force. A rotary control valve direct force

in

the rack and pinion assembly directs

hydraulic fluid from the

power

steering

13.5

A steering wheel

etc.

pump

to either side of the integral rack piston,

If

the

power steering system loses its will still function manu-

hydraulic pressure ally,

it

though with increased

can be used to

The steering column

umn, an optional tilt version is also offered. Because disassembly of the steering column is more often performed to repair a switch or other electrical part than to correct a problem in the steering functioning, the steering

column disassembly and reassembly

procedure

is

included

in

Chapter 12.

effort. is

of the collapsi-

energy absorbing type, designed to compress in the event of a front end collision to minimize injury to the driver. The column also houses the ignition switch lock, key warning buzzer, turn signal controls, headlight dimmer control and windshield wiper controls. The ignition and steering wheel can both be locked while the car is parked to inhibit theft. Due to the column's collapsible design, it is important that only specified screws, bolts and nuts can be used as designated and that they be tightened to the specified torque. Other precautions particular to this design are noted in appropriate Sections. In addition to the standard steering colble,

puller

remove the steering wheel

which is attached to the rack. Depending on which side of the piston this hydraulic pressure is applied to, the rack will be forced either left or right, which moves the tie rods,

transferred through

the column and intermediate shaft to the pinion shaft in the rack

insulator

Steering lock

to provide hydraulic pressure.

wheel

and

Intermediate shaft

assembly, tie rods and steering knuckles (see illustration). In addition, the power steering system also uses a belt driven pump

ing the steering

layout

steering lock assemblies

Air duct

In

component

13

removal and

Steering wheel installation

Refer to

illustrations 13.2

and

13.5

Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2 Remove the horn cap and ornament and disconnect the horn wire (see illustration). 3 Be sure the steering wheel is unlocked, then remove the lock nut. 4 Mark the position of the steering wheel 1

in

relation to the steering shaft.

Using steering wheel puller, remove the 5 steering wheel (see illustration). Caution: Under no circumstances should the end of the shaft be

hammered

on.

Installation is the reverse of the

6

removal

procedure with the following notes: Prior to coat the horn contact surfaces on the steering wheel hub with a molybase grease. When installing the steering installation, lightly

wheel on the shaft be sure the alignment marks on the steering wheel and shaft match.

14

Steering column

removal and

installation

could weaken the column structure and impair its performance. If the car has been in an accident which 9 resulted in frame damage, major body damage or in which the steering column was impacted, the column could be damaged or misaligned and should be checked by a qualified mechanic. 10 If disassembly of the column is necessary, refer to Chapter 12. 11

The steering column

reversing the

Disconnect

1

the

negative

battery

sequence

is

by

installed

of the removal opera-

Remove Remove

3

the steering column covers and

nuts and bolts.

15

Steering knuckle/hub assembly

-

removal and installation Refer to

illustration 15.

14

the vehicle.

screwdriver or similar tool through the brake

Because of its collapsible design, the steering column is very susceptible to damage when removed from the vehicle. Be care-

caliper into the rotor

not to lean on or drop the column, as this

Install

1

the

tie

rod and tighten the nut to

the specified torque.

12 13

Install the brake caliper and the locknut. Lock the brake rotor and tighten the

Peen the

collar of the locknut into the

Lock the hub from turning by

2

inserting a

hub

front

locknut.

16

Tie rod end

Unbolt the brake caliper and hang it out of the way. 4 Remove the strut-to-steering knuckle

mounting bolts and nuts. 5

Remove

the nut that secures the

removal and

installation

Refer to illustrations 16.3, 16.4, 16.5, 16.8a and 16.8b port

Raise the front of the vehicle and supit

with jackstands.

Remove Remove

2

3

or other

1

1

and remove the

punch

and a hammer (see illustration). Install the wheel and lower the vehicle.

blunt tool

Raise the front of the vehicle, support it 1 securely on jackstands and remove the front wheel.

8

to the specified torque.

driveaxle groove, using a

Disengage the column from the intermediate shaft and lift the column carefully from 7

the retaining nuts and bolts and tighten

install

them

14 the steering wheel (Section 13).

unplug the harness connectors. 4 Remove the blower air duct (Chapter 11). Remove the combination switch (Chap5 ter^). Remove the steering column retaining 6

ful

rough turning or leaking grease. Disassembly hub requires a press and special techniques and this must be left to your dealer or a properly equipped shop. 1 Install the steering knuckle in position on the driveaxle and lower control arm and strut, of the

locknut to the specified torque.

tion.

terminal.

2

10-9

Suspension and steering

Chapter 10

3

outer

tie

the front wheel.

the tie rod nut that secures the rod to the steering knuckle (see

illustration).

Using a suitable tool, such as a "pickle disengage the tie rod from the steering knuckle (see illustration).

4 tie

rod

to the steering knuckle.

Disengage the tie rod from the steering knuckle (Section 16). 7 Remove the retaining nut and bolt and disengage the balljoint from the steering 6

fork",

5

Mark the

the inner

tie

relationship of the

jam nut

to

rod threads so similar front end

alignment can be maintained upon

installa-

tion (see illustration).

knuckle.

Remove the steering knuckle/hub assembly from the driveaxle, using a puller 8

disengage

from the driveaxle splines from the vehicle. Inspect the knuckle for damage and 9 corrosion and the bearings for looseness,

tool to if

necessary, and

it

lift it

15.14 Peening the hub locknut into the driveaxle groove with chisel

16.4 Using a "pickle fork" tool

and

hammer

to disengage the tie rod from the steering knuckle

16.3 Tie rod

end and steering gear

installation details 1

2 3

rod end nut Outer boot band Tie

Jam

4

Rack and pinion

5 6

boot seal Inner boot band Tie rod nut and cotter pin

16.5

Mark the

rod end jam nut position (arrow) before removal tie

10

10-10

16.8a

Chapter 10

Removing the rod end boot

Suspension and steering

tie

49 1243 785 16.8b Installing the

tie

rod

end boot using a press and factory tool

6

Back

off

the jam nut from the outer

tie

rod.

Rack and pinion steering gear

18.1

installation details 1

Pinch bolt

2 3 5

Nuts Steering knuckle

and

rod connections

return

7

hose

Power steering pressure hose

8 9

Inspect the

tie

tie

rod end from the

Bolts

Steenng gear

and

linkage

New

part to be used

18.3a Manual rack and pinion steering

2 3

Tie rod ends Boot wires Boot seals

4

Tie rods

5

Washers Locknut Adjustment cover

7

6 7

8

9 10 12

Locknut Rear cover and

13

Upper beahng

14

Pinion

11

15

16

17 18

Spring Pressure pad Dust cover

component

layout

Rack Mounting brackets and bushing Lower beahng Gear housing

i

*M ^0^

oil

seal

tie rod.

rod end boot for tears or

leakage of grease. To replace the boot, place in a vise and carefully tap around the outer circumference using a chisel and hammer as shown, taking care not to damage the sealing surface (see illustration). Insert a small amount lithium base chassis grease into the new boot and place the boot in position on the tie rod end. Press the boot securely onto the tie rod end using a vise and a suitable size socket or a press and Mazda tool 491243785 (see illustration).

Power steering

6

Unscrew the

the rod end securely

Cotter pins

tie

7

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wiring diagram (right-hand drive models)

12-38

Chapter 12

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IND-1

Index fixed glass replacement, 11-15

removal and installation, 11-15 compartment remote release, removal and installation, 11-7

front skirt panel,

About this manual, 0-5 Air conditioning system, servicing, 3-6 Air filter and PCV filter replacement, 1-25 Air injection system, 6-4 Air inlet temperature control system, 6-19 Alignment, wheel, 10-2 Alternator, removal and installation, 5-6 Altitude compensation system, 6-20

fuel filler/rear

Antifreeze, general information, 3-1

instrument panel, removal and installation, 11-12 maintenance, 11-1

Automatic transaxle, 7B-1 through 7B-6 diagnosis, general, 7B-1

general information, 7B-1

checking and replacement, 7B-2 kickdown solenoid, checking, 7B-2 kickdown switch, checking and adjustment, 7B-2 removal and installation, 7B-3 seals, replacement, 7B-4 shift linkage, check and adjustment, 7B-5 vacuum diaphragm, testing and replacement, 7B-2 Automatic transaxle fluid change, 1 -25 Automotive chemicals and lubricants, 0-14 inhibitor switch,

B Battery

check and replacement, 5-2 check and maintenance, 1-12 emergency jump starting, 0-13 removal and installation, 5-2 Body, 11-1 through 11-16 bumpers, removal and installation, 11-15 console, removal and installation, 11-11 cowl plate, removal and installation, 11-14 door glass and window regulator, removal and cables,

installation,

11-9

outer handle, removal and installation, 11-15

removal and installation, 11-7 exterior mirror, removal and installation, 11-15 trim panel,

general information, 11-1

hinges and locks, maintenance, 11-1

hood lock

mechanism and release

installation,

removal and

quarter

and

installation,

11-3

window

installation,

glass (coupe models), removal and 11-11

radiator grille cover, removal rear

cable, removal

11-3

compartment

and

installation,

11-14

lid

lock assembly, removal and installation, 11-7 striker,

removal and

installation,

11-7

rear hatch

damper, removal and installation, 11-3 removal, installation and adjustment, 11-6 repair

major damage, 11-3 minor damage, 11-2 trim fasteners, removal and installation, 11-8 trunk lid, removal and installation, 11-7 upholstery and carpets, maintenance, 11-1 vinyl trim, maintenance. 11-1 Booster battery (jump) starting, 0-13 Brake check, 1-16 Brakes, 9-1 through 9-14 brake hoses and lines, inspection and replacement, 9-10 disc brake caliper overhaul, 9-5 removal and installation, 9-5 disc brake

pads, replacement, 9-2 rotor, inspection, removal and

installation,

9-6

drum brake shoes, replacement, 9-6

wheel cylinder, removal, overhaul and

installation,

9-9

general information, 9-2 hydraulic system, bleeding, 9-12

master cylinder, removal, overhaul and

installation,

9-9

IND

IND-2

Index release cylinder, removal and installation, 8-4

parking brake

assembly, removal and installation, 9-12 cable, removal and installation, 9-12 checking and adjustment, 9-11 pedal assembly, removal and installation, 9-1 power brake booster, inspection, removal and installation, 9-12 Bulb replacement, 12-7 Bumpers, removal and installation, 11-15 Buying parts, 0-7

removal, inspection and installation, 8-4 Clutch and driveaxles, 8-1 through 8-12

Coasting richer system, 6-9 Combination switch, removal and installation, 12-4 Compression check, 1-32 Console, removal and installation, 11-11 Conversion factors, 0-15 Cooling system check, 1-14 servicing (draining, flushing

and

refilling),

1-22

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems, 3-1 through 3-8 air

conditioning system, servicing, 3-6

antifreeze, general information, 3-1

Camshaft

system, description, testing and component placement, 3-5 fan, removal and installation, 3-4 electric cooling fan

cover, removal and installation, 2A-2

removal and installation, 2A-7 sprocket, removal and installation, 2A-6 Carburetor choke check, 1-17 mounting torque check, 1-20 overhaul and adjustment, 4-5 removal and installation, 4-4

heater fan motor, removal and installation, 3-6 radiator, removal, servicing

installation,

3-3

replacement, 3-2

water pump check, 3-5 removal and

Charging system check, 5-5 general information and precautions, 5-5 Chassis electrical system, 12-1 through 12-48 bulb replacement, 12-7

combination switch, removal and

and

thermostat check, 3-3

installation,

Cowl

plate,

installation,

removal and

3-6

installation,

11-14

Crankshaft

electrical troubleshooting, general information,

2B-15 and main bearing oil clearance check, 2B-17 pulley, removal and installation, 2A-7 removal, 2B-10 inspection,

12-4 12-2

fuses, general information, 12-2 fusible links, general information, 12-3

installation

Cylinder head

general information, 12-2

cleaning and inspection, 2B-6

headlight

disassembly, 2B-6 reassembly, 2B-8

adjustment, 12-6

removal and installation, 12-4 heater control assembly, removal, adjustment, 12-14

removal and

ignition switch,

installation

installation,

removal and

and

installation,

2A-1

12-4

instrument panel cluster instruments, removal and installation, 12-13

switches, removal and installation, 12-13

Deceleration control system, 6-20 Disc brake

removal and installation, 12-10 power radio antenna and motor, removal and installation, 12-18 radio and speakers, removal

and

rear defogger (electric grid type), rear

installation,

check and

caliper

overhaul, 9-5

12-9

repair,

12-18

window wiper assembly, removal and

installation,

three

way

12-17

removal and installation, 9-5 pads, replacement, 9-2 rotor, inspection,

adjustable suspension

damper

actuator,

testing, 12-3

windshield wiper motor and linkage assembly, removal and

12-17 Chassis lubrication, 1-15 Clutch cable, removal and installation, 8-3 hydraulic system, bleeding, 8-4

master cylinder, removal and

installation,

-

replacement, 5-3

Door glass and

window

regulator, removal

8-3

boot, replacement, 8-10

adjustment, 1-21

installation,

Driveaxle

and 8-3

and

outer handle, removal and installation, 11-15 trim panel, removal and installation, 11-7

pedal installation,

9-6

dismantling and reassembly, 5-3 removal and installation, 5-3

operation, checking, 8-2

removal and

installation,

Distributor

Distributor rotor

installation,

removal and

joint shaft,

removal and

installation,

general information, 8-6

Drivebelt

check and adjustment, 1-13

8-8

11-9

1

IND-3

Index

Drum brake

general information. 2A-2

shoes, replacement, 9-6

intake manifold, removal

wheel cylinder, removal, overhaul and

installation,

9-9

and

installation.

oil

pan, removal and installation, 2A-15

oil

pump

2A-10

disassembly, inspection and reassembly, 2A-13 removal and installation, 2A-12 oil

Electric cooling fan system, description, testing

and

component placement, 3-5 Electrical troubleshooting, general information, 12-2 Electronic ignition system, 6-4

2B-8

springs and valve stem

slow fuel cut system, 6-9 Engine, 2A-1 through 2A-20 camshaft cover, removal and installation. 2A-2 removal and installation, 2A-7 sprocket, removal and installation, 2A-6 crankshaft pulley, removal and installation, 2A-7 cylinder head, removal and installation, 2A-1 engine

2A-19 vehicle,

seals,

removal and

battery

compensation system, 6-19 Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system, 6-18

in

oil

installation, 2A-9 Engine electrical systems, 5-1 through 5-8 alternator, removal and installation, 5-6

idle

2A-15

overhaul, general information. 2B-4

exhaust manifold, removal and installation, 2A-11 flywheel/driveplate and rear cover oil seal, removal and

2A-14

housing cover, removal and installation, 2A-12 oil seal, replacement, 2A-9 general engine overhaul procedures camshaft, inspection, 2B-13

front

crankshaft

2B-15 installation and main bearing oil clearance check, 2B-17 removal, 2B-10 cylinder head cleaning and inspection, 2B-6 reassembly, 2B-8 inspection,

engine block cleaning, 2B-11 inspection,

timing belt

servicing,

Evaporative emissions control system, 6-14 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system, 6-10 Fuel Control System, 6-4

installation.

rear housing, removal and installation, 2A-8 removal and installation, 2A-16 rocker arm assembly, removal and installation, 2A-8

valves

electronic ignition system, 6-4

mounts, replacement with engine

replacement, 2A-4

sprocket, removal and installation, 2A-7

deceleration control system, 6-20

transaxle, separation,

seal,

removal, installation and adjustment, 2A-4

system, 6-4 air inlet temperature control system, 6-19 altitude compensation system, 6-20 coasting richer system. 6-9 air injection

and

oil

cover, removal and installation, 2A-2

Emissions control systems, 6-1 through 6-22

Hot

pump body

2B-12

engine overhaul, reassembly sequence, 2B-20 start-up and break-in after overhaul, 2B-20 main and connecting rod bearings, inspection, 2B-15 piston rings, installation, 2B-16 piston/connecting rod assembly inspection, 2B-13 installation and bearing oil clearance check, 2B-18 removal, 2B-8 rear oil seal and cover, installation, 2B-20

cables, check and replacement, 5-2

emergency jump starting, 5-2 removal and installation, 5-2 charging system check, 5-5 general information and precautions, 5-5 distributor

dismantling and reassembly, 5-3 removal and installation, 5-3 distributor rotor, replacement, 5-3 ignition coil

removal and testing. 5-4 ignition

starter

installation,

5-5

system, check, 5-2

motor

removal and testing

in

installation,

5-7

vehicle, 5-7

starter solenoid,

removal and

installation,

5-7

starting system, general information. 5-6

Engine

idle

speed check and adjustment (carbureted

models), 1-17

Engine mounts, replacement with engine in vehicle, 2A-15 Engine oil and filter change, 1-18 Engine overhaul, reassembly sequence, 2B-20 Evaporative emissions control system, 6-14 Evaporative emissions control system check, 1-27 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system, 6-10 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve check, 1-27 Exhaust manifold, removal and installation, 2A-11 Exhaust system check, 1-16 Exhaust system components, removal and installation, 4-10 Exterior mirror, removal and installation, 11-15

initial

Fan, removal and installation, 3-4

Fixed glass replacement, 11-15 Fluid level checks, 1-9

IND

IND-4

Index

Flywheel/driveplate and rear cover installation,

oil

seal,

removal and

engine

2A-14

rebuilding alternatives,

removal, methods and precautions, 2B-5

Front housing cover, removal and installation, 2A-12 oil seal, replacement, 2A-9 Front lower control arm, removal and installation, 10-5 Front skirt panel, removal and installation, 11-15 Front strut damper assembly, removal and installation, 10-6 Fuel and exhaust systems, 4-1 through 4-28

general information, 2B-4

overhaul and adjustment, 4-5 removal and installation, 4-4

fuel injection air intake

and break-in

2B-20 main and connecting rod bearings, inspection, 2B-15 piston rings, installation, 2B-16 piston/connecting rod assembly inspection, 2B-13 installation and bearing oil clearance check, 2B-18 removal, 2B-8 rear oil seal and cover, installation, 2B-20 initial

carburetor

exhaust system components, removal and fuel filter replacement, 1 -20

2B-5

start-up

after overhaul,

repair operations possible with the engine installation,

4-10

in

the vehicle, 2B-4 valves, servicing,

2B-8

system components, check and

replacement, 4-19

system components, check and replacement, 4-22 fuel injection system fuel delivery components, check and replacement, 4-17 general information, 4-13 fuel line, repair and replacement, 4-3 fuel pressure relief procedure, 4-17 fuel pump, removal and installation, 4-3 fuel pump/fuel pressure, check, 4-2 fuel system check, 1-19 fuel injection electronic control

fuel

H Headlight adjustment, 12-6

removal and installation, 12-4 Heater control assembly, removal, installation and adjustment, 12-14 Heater fan motor, removal and installation, 3-6 Hinges and locks, maintenance, 11-1 Hood lock mechanism and release cable, removal and installation,

tank

removal and repair, 4-4

installation,

4-4

11-3

Hood, removal and installation, 11-3 Hot idle compensation system, 6-19

general information, 4-2 idle up system, check and adjustment, 4-10 turbocharger knock control system, description and checking, 4-26

turbocharger, description and checking, 4-25

Fuel Control System, 6-4 Fuel filler/rear compartment remote release, removal and installation, 11-7

Fuses, general information, 12-2 Fusible links, general information, 12-3

Idle

speed check and adjustment (1986 and 1987

fuel

injected models), 1-33 Idle

up system, check and adjustment, 4-10

Ignition coil

removal and testing, 5-4

installation,

5-5

removal and installation, 12-4 Ignition system, check, 5-2 Ignition timing check and adjustment, 1-27 Initial start-up and break-in after overhaul, 2B-20 Instrument panel cluster instruments, removal and installation, 12-13 switches, removal and installation, 12-13 removal and installation, 12-10 Instrument panel, removal and installation, 11-12 Intake manifold, removal and installation, 2A-10 Introduction and routine maintenance, 1-6 Introduction to the Mazda 626 and MX-6, 0-5 Ignition switch,

General dimensions, 0-5 General engine overhaul procedures, 2B-1 through 2B-20 camshaft, inspection, 2B-13 crankshaft

2B-15 and main bearing oil clearance check, 2B-17 removal, 2B-10 cylinder head cleaning and inspection, 2B-6 disassembly, 2B-6 reassembly, 2B-8 inspection, installation

engine block

Jacking and towing, 0-13

cleaning, 2B-11 inspection,

2B-12

engine overhaul disassembly sequence, 2B-5 general information, 2B-4

reassembly sequence, 2B-20

M Main and connecting rod bearings, inspection, 2B-15 Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities, 0-7

1

IND-5

Index Manual transaxle, 7A-1 through 7A-10 disassembly, 7A-3 differential,

inspection and overhaul, 7A-9

general information, 7A-1

mounts, check and replacement, 7A-1 change, 1-22 primary gear shaft assemDly, inspection and overhaul, 7A-9 reassembly, 7A-10 removal and installation, 7A-2 secondary gear shaft assembly, inspection and overhaul, 7A-8 shift lever assembly, removal and installation. 7A-2 Master cylinder, removal, overhaul and installation, 9-9 oil

Radio and speakers, removal and installation, 12-9 Rear compartment lid lock assembly, removal and installation, 11-7 striker, removal and installation, 11-7 Rear defogger (electric grid type), check and repair, 12-18 Rear hatch damper, removal and installation, 11-3 removal, installation and adjustment, 11-6 Rear housing, removal and installation, 2A-8 Rear strut assembly, removal, inspection and installation, 10-6

Rear suspension

lateral

and

removal and

trailing links,

installation, 10-6

Rear wheel bearing check and repack, 1-23 Rear window wiper assembly, removal and 12-17 Rocker arm assembly, removal and installation, 2A-8 installation,

Oil Oil

pan, removal and installation, 2A-15

pump disassembly, inspection and reassembly, 2A-13

removal and

2A-12 replacement, 2A-4 Oxygen sensor, check and replacement, 1-26 Oil

installation,

pump body

oil

seal,

Safety

first!,

0-16

Slow fuel cut system, 6-9 Spark plug replacement, 1-28 wires, distributor

cap and

rotor

check and

replacement, 1-29 Stabilizer bar, removal

Parking brake assembly, removal and installation, 9-12 cable, removal and installation, 9-12 checking and adjustment, 9-1 Piston rings, installation, 2B-16 Piston/connecting rod assembly

2B-13 installation and bearing removal, 2B-8

Starter

Positive Positive

testing

replacement, 1-27 installation,

Power

installation,

Power

steering

vehicle, 5-7

and

installation, 5-7

Steering column, removal and installation, 10-9 Steering knuckle/hub assembly, removal and installation, 10-9 Steering system bleeding the power steering system, 10-12 general information, 10-7

power steering pump, removal and rack and pinion

and

9-12

radio antenna

5-7

Starting system, general information, 5-6

clearance check, 2B-18

inspection, removal

in

installation,

Starter solenoid, removal

Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system, 6-18 Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve check and

Power brake booster,

installation, 10-4

motor

removal and

inspection,

oil

and

steering assembly, removal

12-18 installation,

10-12

installation,

10-11

boot seals, replacement, 10-11

and motor, removal and

pump, removal and

installation,

10-12

steering column, removal

and

and

installation,

10-9

steering knuckle/hub assembly, removal and installation,

10-9

steering wheel, removal

Quarter window glass (coupe models), removal and installation, 11-11

and

installation,

10-8

suspension alignment, general information, 10-2 tie rod end, removal and installation, 10-9 wheel and tire, removal and installation, 10-2 wheels and tires, general information, 10-2 Suspension alignment, general information, 10-2 Suspension and steering, 10-1 through 10-12 Suspension and steering check, 1-16

Suspension system

Rack and

boot seals, replacement, 10-11 steering assembly, removal and Radiator grille

front lower control arm, removal

pinion

front strut installation,

cover, 1.1-14

removal, servicing and installation, 3-3

10-11

and

installation,

damper assembly, removal and

10-5

installation,

10-6

general information, 10-3 inspection, 10-4 rear strut assembly, removal, inspection installation,

10-6

and

IND

IND-6

Index

rear suspension lateral installation,

stabilizer bar,

three

and

removal and

way damping

installation,

trailing links,

removal and

10-6 installation,

10-4

control switches, removal

and

10-7

Thermostat check, 3-3

secondary gear shaft assembly, inspection and overhaul, 7A-8 shift lever assembly, removal and installation, 7A-2 Trim fasteners, removal and installation, 11-8 Troubleshooting, 0-17 Trunk lid, removal and installation, 11-7 Tune-up and routine maintenance, 1-1 through 1-33 Tune-up sequence, 1-8 Turbocharger knock control system, description and checking, 4-26 Turbocharger, description and checking, 4-25

replacement, 3-2

Thermostatically controlled air cleaner check, 1-21 Three way adjustable suspension damper actuator, testing, 12-3 Three way damping control switches, removal and installation, 10-7 Throttle linkage check and adjustment, 1-20 Tie rod end, removal and installation, 10-9

U Underhood hose check and replacement, 1-14 Upholstery and carpets, maintenance, 11-1

Timing belt cover, removal

and

installation,

2A-2

removal, installation and adjustment, 2A-4 sprocket, removal and installation, 2A-7 Tire

and

tire

pressure checks, 1-8

Valve adjustment (1987 and earlier models), 1-31 Valves

Tire rotation, 1-21

servicing,

Transaxle output shaft seal and driveaxle boot check, 1-21 Transaxle, automatic, 7B-1 through 7B-6 diagnosis, general, 7B-1

springs and valve stem

general information, 7B-1 inhibitor switch,

2B-8

installation,

oil

seals,

removal and

2A-9

Vehicle identification numbers, 0-6 Vinyl trim,

maintenance, 11-1

checking and replacement, 7B-2

kickdown solenoid, checking, 7B-2 kickdown switch, checking and adjustment, 7B-2 removal and installation, 7B-3 seals, replacement, 7B-4 shift linkage, check and adjustment, 7B-5 vacuum diaphragm, testing and replacement, 7B-2 Transaxle, manual, 7A-1 through 7A-10 disassembly, 7A-3 differential, inspection and overhaul, 7A-9 general information, 7A-1

mounts, check and replacement, 7A-1 oil change, 1-22 primary gear shaft assembly, inspection and overhaul, 7A-9 reassembly, 7A-10 removal and installation, 7A-2

W Water pump check, 3-5

removal and installation, 3-6 Wheel alignment, 10-2

Wheel and tire, removal and installation, 10-2 Wheel cylinder, drum brake, removal, overhaul and installation, 9-9

Wheels and

general information, 10-2 Windshield wiper motor and linkage assembly, removal and installation, 12-17 Wiper blade inspection and replacement, 1-15 tires,

Haynes Automotive Manuals NOTE: New manuals

are added to

on a periodic basis. If you do not see a listing Haynes dealer for the latest product information.

this list

consult your local

ACURA

24048 Lumina & Monte Carlo

•12020 Integra

& Legend

'86 thru '89

'86 thru '90

24050 •24055

AMC Jeep CJ - see JEEP (50020) 14020 Mid-size models, Concord, Hornet, Gremlin & Spirit 70 thru '83 14025 (Renault) Alliance & Encore '83 thru

24059 *24060

24064 '87

•24065 Pick-ups '88 thru '98

AUDI all all all

models '80 thru models 77 thru models '84 thru

'87

,

19030 Mid-size Regal & Century

all

thru '84

70 thru 75, rear-drive

CADILLAC •21030 Cadillac Rear Wheel Drive all gasoline models 70 thru '93 Cimarron - see GENERAL MOTORS (38015) Eldorado - see GENERAL MOTORS (38030)

28005 28007 28009 28012 28014

Safari Mini-vans '85 thru "93 '81

Cavalier - see GENERAL MOTORS (38015) Celebrity - see GENERAL MOTORS (38005)

24017 Camaro & Firebird '93 thru '97 24020 Chevelle, Malibu & El Camino 24024 Chevette & Pontiac T1000 76

'69 thru '87 thru '87

see GENERAL MOTORS (38020) Corsica/Beretta all models '87 thru '96 Corvette all V8 models '68 thru '82 Corvette all models '84 thru '96 Chevrolet Engine Overhaul Manual Citation

-

Listings

shown

with

an asterisk

(')

200SX all models B-210

210

'80 thru '83

models 73 thru 78 models 79 thru '82

all

all

240Z, 260Z & 280Z Coupe 70 thru 78 280ZX Coupe & 2+2 79 thru '83

'30020

30025

'30034 '30035 •30040 •30041 '30045

models '84 thru '95 Caravan & Plymouth Voyager Mini-Vans all models '96 thru '98 Challenger/Plymouth Saporro 78 thru '83 Colt & Plymouth Champ (front wheel drive) all models 78 thru '87 Dakota Pick-ups all models '87 thru '96 Dart, Demon, Plymouth Barracuda, Duster & Valiant 6 cyl models '67 thru 76 Daytona & Chrysler Laser '84 thru '89 -

see

CHRYSLER (25025)

Neon all models '95 thru '97 Omni & Plymouth Horizon 78 thru '90 Pick-ups all full-size models 74 thru '93 all

full-size

Ram 50/D50

'94

'30060 Spirit & Plymouth Acclaim '89 thru '95 •30065 Vans - Dodge & Plymouth 71 thru '96

EAGLE Talon Vision

36048 Mustang V8 all models '64-1/2 thru 73 36049 Mustang 4 cyl, V6 & V8 models 74 thru 78 36050 Mustang & Mercury Capri all models Mustang, 79 thru '93; Capri, 79 thru '86 •36051 Mustang all models '94 thru '97 36054 Pick-ups & Bronco 73 thru 79 36058 Pick-ups & Bronco '80 thru '96 36059 Pick-ups, Expedition & Mercury Navigator '97 thru '98 36062 Pinto & Mercury Bobcat 75 thru '80 36066 Probe all models '89 thru '92 36070 Ranger/Bronco gasoline models '83 thru '92 *36071 Ranger '93 thru '97 & Mazda Pick-ups '94 thru '97 36074 Taurus & Mercury Sable '86 thru 95 *36075 Taurus & Mercury Sable 96 thru '98 •36078 Tempo & Mercury Topaz '84 thru '94 36082 Thunderbird/Mercury Cougar '83 thru '88 •36086 Thunderbird/Mercury Cougar '89 and '97 36090 Vans all V8 Econoline models '69 thru '91 36094 Vans full size '92-'95 II

-

Mini-van '95-98

GENERAL MOTORS 10360 GM Automatic

Transmission Overhaul '38005 Buick Century, Chevrolet Celebrity, Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera & Pontiac 6000 all models '82 thru '96 '38010 Buick Regal, Chevrolet Lumina, Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme & Pontiac Grand Prix front-wheel drive models '88 thru '95 '38015 Buick Skyhawk, Cadillac Cimarron, Chevrolet Cavalier, Oldsmobile Firenza & Pontiac J-2000 & Sunbird 82 thru '94 '38016 Chevrolet Cavalier & Pontiac Sunfire '95 thru '98

'94 thru '96

models Pick-ups & Raider and Plymouth Arrow Pick-ups 79 thru '93 30050 Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler rear wheel drive 71 thru '89 30055 Shadow & Plymouth Sundance '87 thru Pick-ups

thru '82);

Ford LTD & Mercury Marquis ('83 thru '86); Ford Torino.Gran Torino, Elite, Ranchero pick-up, LTD II, Mercury Montego, Comet, XR-7 & Lincoln Versailles (75 thru '86)

36097 Windstar

all

30012 30016

thru '80

II

400 & 600 - see CHRYSLER (25030) '30008 Aries & Plymouth Reliant '81 thru '89 30010 Caravan & Plymouth Voyager Mini-Vans 1

'87);

see Mitsubishi Eclipse (68030) see CHRYSLER (25025)

38020 Buick Skylark, Chevrolet Citation, Olds Omega, Pontiac Phoenix '80 thru '85 38025 Buick Skylark & Somerset, Oldsmobile Achieva & Calais and Pontiac Grand Am all models '85 thai '95 38030 Cadillac Eldorado 71 thru '85, Seville '80 thru '85,

Oldsmobile Toronado 71 thru '85 & Buick Riviera 79 thru '85 •38035 Chevrolet Lumina APV, Olds Silhouette & Pontiac Trans Sport all models '90 thru '95 General Motors Full-size Rear-wheel Drive - see BUICK (19025)

FIAT (38010)

indicate

Haynes North America,

Cougar (75

DODGE

Full-size Sedans Caprice, Impala, Biscayne, Bel Air & Wagons '69 thru '90

24046 Impala SS & Caprice and Buick Roadmaster '91 thru '96 Lumina - see GENERAL MOTORS

Stratus,

Intrepid,

Intrepid

CHEVROLET GMC

Dodge

300ZX - see NISSAN (72010) 310 all models 78 thru '82 510 & PL521 Pick-up '68 thru 73 510 all models 78 thru '81 620 Series Pick-up all models 73 thru 79 720 Series Pick-up - see NISSAN (72030) 28025 810/Maxima all gasoline models, 77 thru '84

GM (38030)

24015 Camaro V8 all models 70 thru 24016 Camaro all models '82 thru '92

Cirrus,

28016 28018 28020 28022

'30030 •24010 Astro &

36040 Granada & Mercury Monarch 75 36044 Ford & Mercury Mid-size,

DATSUN

3001

see

36030 Festiva & Aspire '88 thru '97 36032 Fiesta all models 77 thru '80 36036 Ford & Mercury Full-size, Ford LTD & Mercury Marquis (75 thru '82); Ford Custom 500, Country Squire, Crown & Mercury Colony Park (75 thru Ford LTD Crown Victoria & Mercury Gran Marquis ('83 thru '87)

New Yorker & LHS, Eagle Vision, '93 thru '97 10310 Chrysler Engine Overhaul Manual •25020 Full-size Front-Wheel Drive '88 thru 93 K-Cars - see DODGE Aries (30008) Laser - see DODGE Daytona (30030) '25030 Chrysler & Plymouth Mid-size front wheel drive '82 thru '95 Rear-wheel Drive - see Dodge (30050) Dodge

models with V6, V8 and Turbo 74 thru '87 Regal - see GENERAL MOTORS (38010) Riviera - see GENERAL MOTORS (38030) Roadmaster - see CHEVROLET (24046) Skyhawk - see GENERAL MOTORS (38015) Skylark '80 thru '85 - see GM (38020) Skylark '86 on - see GM (38025) Somerset - see GENERAL MOTORS (38025)

-

10355 Ford Automatic Transmission Overhaul •36004 Aerostar Mini-vans all models '86 thru '96 •36006 Contour & Mercury Mystique '95 thru '98 36008 Courier Pick-up all models 72 thru '82 36012 Crown Victoria & Mercury Grand Marquis '88 thru '96 10320 Ford Engine Overhaul Manual 36016 Escort/Mercury Lynx all models '81 thru '90 •36020 Escort/Mercury Tracer '91 thru '96 •36024 Explorer & Mazda Navajo '91 thru '95 36028 Fairmont & Mercury Zephyr 78 thru '83

Plymouth Breeze 25025 Chrysler Concorde,

Buick Estate 70 thru '90, Electra'70 thru '84, LeSabre 70 thru '85, Limited 74 thru 79 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser 70 thru '90,

Catalina 70 thru '81 Grandville Parisienne '83 thru '86

FORD

'95 thru '98

Century (front wheel drive) - see GM (829) '19020 Buick, Oldsmobile & Pontiac Full-size (Front wheel drive) all models '85 thru '98 Buick Electra, LeSabre and Park Avenue; Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royale, Ninety Eight and Regency; Pontiac Bonneville 19025 Buick Oldsmobile & Pontiac Full-size (Rear wheel drive)

70

vehicle,

Ford Thunderbird & Mercury

25015 Chrysler

BUICK

Delta 88 70 thru '85,Ninety-eight Pontiac Bonneville 70 thru '81,

your

Victoria

CHRYSLER

•18020 3/5 Series not including diesel or all-wheel drive models '82 thru '92 •18021 3 Series except 325iX models '92 thru '97 18025 320i all 4 cyl models 75 thru '83 18035 528i & 530i all models 75 thru '80 18050 1500 thru 2002 except Turbo '59 thru 77

Seville '80 thru '85

'82 thru '93, '83 thru '94, S-10 & S-15 Pick-ups '94 thru '96 Blazer & Jimmy '95 thru '96

•24075 Sprint & Geo Metro '85 thru '94 •24080 Vans - Chevrolet & GMC, V8 & in-line 6 cylinder models '68 thru '96

BMW

'

& GMC,

& Jimmy

Blazer

-

10305 24045

Chevrolet

Tahoe & Yukon '98 24070 S-10 & S-15 Pick-ups

'83 '88

24071

•24041

-

full-size pick-ups, '88 thru '98; Blazer & Jimmy '92 thru '94; Suburban '92 thru '98;

AUSTIN-HEALEY Sprite see MG Midget (66015)

24040

98

all

15020 4000 15025 5000 15026 5000

•24032

'95 thru

Lumina APV - see GM (38035) Luv Pick-up all 2WD & 4WD 72 thru '82 Monte Carlo all models 70 thru '88 Monte Carlo '95 thru '98 - see LUMINA (24048) Nova all V8 models '69 thru 79 Nova and Geo Prizm '85 thru '92 Pick-ups '67 thru '87 - Chevrolet & GMC, all V8 & in-line 6 cyl, 2WD & 4WD '67 thru '87; Suburbans, Blazers & Jimmys '67 thru '91

for

34010 124 Sport Coupe & Spider 34025 X1/9 all models 74 thru '80

'68 thru

78 (Continued on other side)

model coverage as of this printing. These titles will be periodically updated Haynes dealer for more information.

Inc.,

861 Lawrence Drive,

Newbury

Park,

CA

to include later

91320-1514

model years - consult your

•

(805) 498-6703

Haynes Automotive Manuals NOTE: New manuals

are added to

this list

consult your local

GEO

on a periodic

Haynes dealer for

basis.

If

you do not see a

•93 thru '96

TOYOTA

see

Corolla (92036)

94007 Spitfire all models 94010 TR7 all models 75

Safari

see

-

7201 •72015 '72020 •72030

CHEVROLET ASTRO (24010) - see CHEVROLET

Vans & Pick-ups

42010 Accord CVCC 4201

1

42012 42013 42020 42021 42022 42023

all models 76 thru '83 Accord all models '84 thru '89 Accord all models '90 thru '93 Accord all models '94 thru '95 Civic 1200 all models 73 thru 79 Civic 1300 & 1500 CVCC '80 thru '83 Civic 1500 CVCC all models 75 thru 79 Civic all models '84 thru '91

'42024 Civic & del Sol '92 thru '95 •42040 Prelude CVCC all models 79

Jetta, Scirocco, & Pick-up gas '91 & Convertible '80 thru '92 Golf & Jetta all models '93 thru '97 Rabbit, Jetta & Pick-up diesel 77 thru '84 Transporter 1600 all models '68 thru 79

'96016 Rabbit,

300ZX all models Altima

all

Maxima

•72060 Stanza

including Turbo '84 thru '89 models '93 thru '97

all

models

models 74 thru

96017 96020 96030 96035 Transporter 1700, 1800 & 2000 72 thru 79 96040 Type 3 1500 & 1600 all models '63 thru 73 96045 Vanagon all air-cooled models '80 thru '83

'85 thru '91

all

'82 thru '90

models

VOLVO OLDSMOBILE '73015 Cutlass V6 & V8 gas models 74

97010 120, 130 Series & 1800 Sports '61 thru 73 97015 140 Series all models '66 thru 74 '97020 240 Series all models 76 thru '93 97025 260 Series all models 75 thru '82 '97040 740 & 760 Series all models '82 thru '88

thru '88

OLDSMOBILE titles, see BUICK, CHEVROLET or GENERAL MOTORS listing.

For other

thru '89

PLYMOUTH

HYUNDAI

For

'43015 Excel

all

models

PLYMOUTH titles,

see

DODGE listing.

'86 thru '94

TECHBOOK MANUALS 0205 10210 10215 10220 10225 10230 10240 10305 10310 10320

PONTIAC

ISUZU

79008 79018 79019

Hombre - see CHEVROLET S-10 (24071) '91 thru '97; Amigo '89 thru '94; Honda Passport '95 thru '97 *47020 Trooper & Pick-up, all gasoline models '47017 Rodeo

Pick-up,

1

Fiero all models '84 thru '88 Firebird V8 models except Turbo Firebird all models '82 thru '92

For other PONTIAC

titles,

70

thru '81

see BUICK,

CHEVROLET or GENERAL MOTORS

thru '93; Trooper, '84 thru '91

'81

listing.

PORSCHE

JAGUAR •49010 XJ6

all

'80020 91

6 cyl models '68 thru '86

•4901 1 XJ6 all models "49015 XJ12 & XJS all 12

cyl

models 72 thru

1

80025 914 80030 924 •80035 944

'88 thru '94 '85

except Turbo & Carrera 4 '65 thru '89 4 cyl models '69 thru 76 models including Turbo 76 thru '82 models including Turbo '83 thru '89

all all all

1 0330 10340 10345 10355 10360 1 0405 10410 10415 10420 10425 10430 10435 10440 10445 10450

JEEP '50010 Cherokee, Comanche & Wagorteer Limited all models '84 thru '96 50020 CJ all models '49 thru '86 '50025 Grand Cherokee all models '93 thru '98 50029 Grand Wagoneer & Pick-up 72 thru '91 Grand Wagoneer '84 thru '91 Cherokee & Wagoneer 72 thru '83, Pick-up 72 thru '88 "50030 Wrangler all models '87 thru '95 ,

see FORD Pick-up (36059) Rear Wheel Drive all models 70 thru '96

Navigator

(14020)

SAAB "84010 900

models including Turbo 79

all

thru '88

SATURN all

models

'91

thru '96

Automotive Computer Codes Automotive Emissions Control Manual Fuel Injection Manual, 1978 thru 1985 Fuel Injection Manual, 1986 thru 1996 Holley Carburetor Manual Rochester Carburetor Manual Weber/Zenith/Stromberg/SU Carburetors Chevrolet Engine Overhaul Manual Chrysler Engine Overhaul Manual Ford Engine Overhaul Manual GM and Ford Diesel Engine Repair Manual Small Engine Repair Manual Suspension, Steering & Driveline Manual Ford Automatic Transmission Overhaul GM Automatic Transmission Overhaul Automotive Body Repair & Painting Automotive Brake Manual Automotive Detaiing Manual Automotive Eelectrical Manual Automotive Heating & Air Conditioning Automotive Reference Manual & Dictionary Automotive Tools Manual Used Car Buying Guide Welding Manual ATV Basics

SUBARU 89002 1100, 1300, 1400 & 1600 71

(rear

wheel

drive)

6101 1 GLC (front wheel drive) '81 '61015 323 & Protoge '90 thru '97 •61016 MX-5 Miata '90 thru '97 •61020 MPV all models '89 thru '94 Navajo

-

77

'96

-

'90010 Samurai/Sidekick & Geo Tracker

see Ford Ranger (36071)

MERCEDES-BENZ 63012 123 Series Diesel 76 thru '85 *63015 190 Series four-cyl gas models, '84 thru '88 63020 230/250/280 6 cyl sohc models '68 thru 72 63025 280 123 Series gasoline models 77 thru '81 63030 350 & 450 all models 71 thru '80

Reparacion de Carroceria & Pintura Codigos Automotrices de la Computadora Frenos Automotriz Inyeccion de Combustible 1986 al 1994 Chevrolet & GMC Camionetas '67 al '87 Incluye Suburban, Blazer & Jimmy '67 al '91 99041 Chevrolet & GMC Camionetas '88 al '95 Incluye Suburban '92 al '95, Blazer & Jimmy '92 al '94, Tahoe y Yukon '95 99042 Chevrolet & GMC Camionetas Cerradas

98903 98905 98910 98915 99040

'86 thru

96

92005 Camry all models '83 thru '91 92006 Camry all models '92 thru '96 92015 Celica Rear Wheel Drive 71 thru '85 '92020 Celica Front Wheel Drive '86 thru '93 92025 Celica Supra all models 79 thru '92 92030 Corolla all models 75 thru 79 92032 Corolla all rear wheel drive models '80 thru '87 92035 Corolla all front wheel drive models '84 thru '92 '92036 Corolla & Geo Prizm '93 thru '97 92040 Corolla Tercel all models '80 thru '82 92045 Corona all models 74 thru '82 92050 Cressida all models 78 thru '82 92055 Land Cruiser FJ40, 43, 45, 55 '68 thru '82 92056 Land Cruiser FJ60, 62, 80, FZJ80 '80 thru '96 '92065

MR2

models '85 thru '87 all models '69 thru 78 '92075 Pick-up all models 79 thru '95 '92076 Tacoma '95 thru '98, 4Runner

MERCURY

'68 al '95

99055 99075 99077 99083 99088 99091 99095 99100

MGB Roadster & GT Coupe '62 thru '80 MG Midget, Austin Healey Sprite '58 thru '80 with

updated

an asterisk

to

(")

include later

Pathfinder

Inc.,

'87 al

'80 al '96,

95

991 18 Nissan Sentra '82 al '94 99125 Toyota Camionetas y 4Runner 79

all

al

'95

'96 thru '98,

&T100'93thru'98 '92080 Previa

all

92085 Tercel

all

models models

'91 thru '95

'87 thru '94

indicate model coverage as of this printing. These titles will be periodically model years - consult your Haynes dealer for more information.

Haynes North America,

Dodge Caravan & Plymouth Voyager '84 al '95 Ford Camionetas y Bronco '80 al '94 Ford Camionetas Cerradas '69 al '91 Ford Modelos de Tamano Grande 75 al '87 Ford Modelos de Tamano Mediano 75 al '86 Ford Taurus & Mercury Sable '86 al '95 GM Modelos de Tamano Grande 70 al '90 GM Modelos de Tamano Mediano 70 al '88

991 10 Nissan Camionetas

92070 Pick-up

Listing.

MG

shown

SPANISH MANUALS

TOYOTA

61035 RX-7 all models 79 thru '85 •61036 RX-7 all models '86 thru '91 61040 626 (rear wheel drive) all models 79 thru '82 •61041 626/MX-6 (front wheel drive) '83 thru '91

See FORD

thru 79 '80 thru '94

SUZUKI

thru '93

Pick-ups '94 thru

2WD & 4WD

thru '83

thru '85

see Ford Explorer (36024)

61030 Pick-ups 72

Listings

& Encore - see AMC

'89003 1600 & 1800

61010 GLC Hatchback

*

Alliance

-

MAZDA

66010 66015

RENAULT

87010 Saturn

LINCOLN 59010

'62 thru '81 thru '81

96008 Beetle & Karmann Ghia '54 thru 79 96012 Dasher all gasoline models 74 thru '81

Pick-ups '80 thru '96 Pathfinder '87 thru '95 72040 Pulsar all models '83 thru '86 •72050 Sentra all models '82 thru '94 •72051 Sentra & 200SX all models '95 thru '98

HONDA

vehicle,

vw

NISSAN

GMC

your

TRIUMPH

•68020 Cordia, Tredia, Galant, Precis & Mirage '83 thru '93 '68030 Eclipse, Eagle Talon & Ply. Laser '90 thru '94 •68040 Pick-up '83 thru '96 & Montero '83 thru '93

'40030 Storm all models '90 thru '93 Tracker - see SUZUKI Samurai (90010)

listing for

the latest product information.

MITSUBISHI Metro - see CHEVROLET Sprint (24075) Prizm - '85 thru '92 see CHEVY (24060),

(continued)

861 Lawrence Drive,

Newbury

Park,

CA

Over

1

00 Haynes

motorcycle manuals also available

91320-1514

•

5-98

(805) 498-6703

Common

spark plug conditions NORMAL Symptoms:

Brown to grayish-tan color and slight electrode wear. Correct heat range for engine and operating conditions. Recommendation: When new spark plugs are installed, replace with plugs of the same heat range.

TOO HOT

WORN Rounded electrodes with a small amount of deposits on the firing end. Normal color. Causes hard starting in damp or cold

Symptoms:

weather and poor

fuel

Recommendation:

economy. Plugs have

been left in the engine too long. Replace with new plugs of the

same

heat range. Follow the recschedule.

ommended maintenance

Symptoms:

Dry sooty deposits indicate a rich mixture or weak ignition. Causes misfiring, hard starting hesitation.

Recommendation: Make

sure the plug has the correct heat range. Check for a clogged air filter or problem in the fuel system or engine management system. Also

check

for ignition

Blistered, white insu-

eroded electrode and absence of deposits. Results in lator,

shortened plug

life.

Recommendation: Check plug

correct

advanced

heat

for the

range,

over-

ignition timing, lean fuel

mixture, intake manifold vacuum leaks, sticking valves and insufficient engine cooling.

PREIGNITION

CARBON DEPOSITS

and

Symptoms:

Symptoms:

Melted electrodes.

Insulators are white, but may be dirty due to misfiring or flying

debns

the combustion chamber.

in

Can lead to engine damage. Recommendation: Check for the plug

correct

advanced

heat

range,

over-

ignition timing, lean fuel

mixture, insufficient engine cooling and lack of lubrication.

system problems.

ASH DEPOSITS

HIGH SPEED GLAZING

Symptoms:

Symptoms:

brown deposits

Light

encrusted on the side or center electrodes or both. Derived from oil and/or fuel additives. Excessive amounts may mask the spark, causing misfiring and hesitation during acceleration.

Recommendation:

If excessive deposits accumulate over a short time or low mileage, install new

valve guide seals to prevent seep-

age

of

oil

into

chambers. Also line

Insulator has yellowglazed appearance. Indicates that combustion chamber temperatures have risen suddenly during hard acceleration. Normal deposits melt to form a conductive coating. Causes misfiring at high speeds. ish,

Recommendation: if

driving habits wan-ant.

changing gaso-

DETONATION Symptoms:

oil

Oily coating control. Oil

is

Insulators

caused leaking

to piston

damage.

past worn valve guides or piston nngs into the combustion chamber. Causes hard starting, misfiring and

fuel anti-knock values

hesitation.

ting the

Recommendation:

lugging the engine.

Correct the mechanical condition with neces-

sary repairs and

install

new

may be

cracked or chipped. Improper gap setting techniques can also result in a fractured insulator tip. Can lead

OIL DEPOSITS by poor

new

the combustion

try

brands.

Symptoms:

Install

plugs. Consider using a colder plug

Recommendation: Make

sure the

meet engine

Use care when setgaps on new plugs. Avoid

requirements.

plugs.

MECHANICAL DAMAGE Symptoms: May be caused by a

GAP BRIDGING Symptoms: Combustion

deposits electrodes.

between the Heavy deposits accumulate and bndge the electrode gap. The plug ceases to fire, resulting in a dead lodge

cylinder.

Recommendation:

Locate the and remove the deposits from between the electrodes. faulty plug

foreign object in the combustion chamber or the piston striking an incorrect reach (too long) plug. Causes a dead cylinder and could result in piston

damage.

Recommendation:

Repair the mechanical damage. Remove the foreign object from the engine and/or install the correct reach plug.

side this manual:

}'

Routine maintenance f

I

^^^^^

s^

Tune-up procedures Engine repair Cooling and heating I

Air conditioning

—

Fuel and exhaust

Emissions control I

W^l

m

Ignition t

Brakes i

Suspension and steering Electrical

P

^^^B

^^

m

Ly

t

«—-

.^Meaieaa^Mi

i

*>

'"

^§r

systems

Wiring diagrams

2B-12

Chapter 2 Part B

Engine

Step-by-step procedures linked to hundreds of easy-to-follow photos and illustrations

9 5b An eiptoded view ot the distributor drive

adapt* > assembly

CkSTfriBulOe

MIVC

Complete troubleshooting section To remove the distributor drive adapter, remove the distributor ho Id •down nut {upper arrow), remove the distributor arid remove the three adapter retaining 9.5a

bolts (arrow*)

identify specific 5 To replace the seal on the Iront camshaft s a good idea to replace the Oring bet-e