Haynes Mazda MX-5 Miata Automotive Repair Manual 1563922894, 9781563922893

Citation preview

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See Chapter 1

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Refer to the dimension cast into the disc 0.004 inch 0.002 inch

Parking brake Parking brake lever travel ..........cscccssccssecesecesecceneeenteestaeeesecerensenseenareenes

See Chapter 1

7 3 6 1 8 12 13 tid

9-2

Chapter9

Brakes EE

2

Torque specifications

Ft-Ibs (unless otherwise indicated)

Brake hose-to-caliper DAnjO DOItS .........ceesereeeteeserseeerneeeseneeesseeeeseeesees

16 to 22 58 to 65 36 to 51

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1

b) The solenoid valve body modulates brake line pressure during ABS operation. The valve body contains three valves - one for each front wheel and one for both of the rear wheels.

General information

The vehicles covered by this manual are equipped with hydraulically operated front and rear brake systems. The front and rear brakes are disc type. Both the front and rear brakes are self-adjusting; the disc brakes automatically compensate for pad wear.

Hydraulic system The hydraulic system consists of two separate circuits. The master cylinder has separate reservoirs for the two circuits, and, in the event of a leak or failure in one hydraulic circuit, the other circuit will remain operative. A dual proportioning valve on the firewall provides brake balance between the front and rear brakes.

Power brake booster The power brake booster, utilizing engine manifold vacuum and atmospheric pressure to provide assistance to the hydraulically operated brakes, is mounted on the firewall in the engine compartment.

Parking brake The parking brake operates the rear brakes only, through cable actuation. It’s activated by a lever mounted in the center console.

Service After completing any operation involving disassembly of any part of the brake system, always test drive the vehicle to check for proper braking performance before resuming normal driving. When testing the brakes, perform the tests on a clean, dry, flat surface. Conditions other than these can lead to inaccurate test results. Test the brakes at various speeds with both light and heavy pedal pressure. The vehicle should stop evenly without pulling to one side or the other. Avoid locking the brakes, because this slides the tires and diminishes braking efficiency and control of the vehicle. Tires, vehicle load and wheel alignment are factors which also affect braking performance.

2

Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) - general information

The Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) is designed to maintain vehicle steerability, directional stability and optimum deceleration under severe braking conditions and on most road surfaces. It does this by

monitoring the rotational speed of each wheel and controlling the brake line pressure to each wheel during braking. This prevents the wheel from locking up.

Components hydraulic unit consists

Wheel sensors These sensors are located at each wheel, generate small electrical pulsations when the toothed rotors are turning, sending a signal to

the electronic controller indicating wheel rotational speed. The front speed sensors are mounted at the front wheel hubs in close relationship to the toothed rotors, which are mounted on the inside of the wheel hubs. The rear wheel sensors are bolted to the toe control hubs. These rotors are also mounted to the inside of the wheel hubs.

ABS control unit The electronic controller is mounted under the right side of the dash and is the brain of the ABS system. The function of the control module - consisting of microprocessors and the related circuits needed for their operation - is to accept and process information received from the wheel speed sensors to control the hydraulic line pressure, avoiding wheel lock-up. The controller also constantly monitors the system, even under normal driving conditions, to find faults within the system. If a problem develops within the system, an ABS indicator light will glow on the dashboard. A diagnostic code will also be stored in the controller, which, when retrieved by a service technician, will indicate the problem area or component.

Diagnosis and repair If a dashboard warning light comes on and stays on while the vehicle is in operation, the ABS system requires attention. Although a special electronic ABS diagnostic tester is necessary to properly diagnose the system, the home mechanic can perform a few preliminary checks before taking the vehicle to a dealer service department or other repair shop which is equipped with a tester. a) b) c) d)

Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. Check that all electrical connectors are securely connected. Check the fuses. Follow the wiring harness to each wheel and check that all connections are secure and that the wiring is not damaged.

If the above preliminary checks do not rectify the problem, the vehicle should be diagnosed and repaired by a dealer service department or other qualified repair shop.

—. Disc brake pads (front) - replacement 3 ane ee Fee Ty We PR Refer to illustrations 3.1, 3.4, 3.5a, 3.5b, 3.6a, 3.6b, 3.7, 3.8, 3.9,

Hydraulic unit The ABS

25 to 29 33 to 36 36 to 49 87 to 144 in-lbs 14 to 19 See Chapter 1

of a hydraulic pump

and a

solenoid valve body. a) The electric pump provides hydraulic pressure for the system.

3.10a, 3.106, 3.10c, 3.10d, 3.11 and 3.12 Warning: Dust created by the brake system may contain asbestos, which is harmful to your health. Never blow it out with compressed air and don’t inhale any of it. Clean the brake assembly with brake cleaner before any brake work is performed (see illustration 3.1). An approved

Chapter9

4

Brakes

@23%

3.1 Always wash the brakes with brake cleaner before

3.4 Depress the piston inward fully to make room for the new

caliper removal

pads - don’t unscrew the banjo fitting bolt (arrow) unless the

caliper is being overhauled filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. Do not, under any circumstances, use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts. Use brake system cleaner. Note: /f an overhaul is indicated (usually because of fluid leakage), explore all options before beginning the job. New and factory rebuilt calipers are available on an exchange basis, which makes this job quite easy. If you decide to rebuild the calipers, make sure a rebuild kit is available before proceeding. Always rebuild the calipers in pairs (front pair, rear pair or all four) - never rebuild just one of them. Be careful when handling the new brake pads; touching the lining surface with your fingers may cause oil contamination, which will affect braking efficiency. 1 ‘Loosen the front wheel lug nuts, raise the front of the vehicle and place it securely on jackstands. Remove the wheel. Note: Work on one brake assembly at a time, using the opposite side brake assembly for reference if necessary. Wash the brake assembly with brake system cleaner before beginning work (see illustration). 2 ‘If you are checking the brake pads for wear, see Chapter 1. Inspect the brake disc carefully as described in Section 5. If machining is necessary, follow the brake disc removai procedure in Section 5. 3 Open the hood and remove the cap from the brake fluid reservoir. 4 With the old pads in place, press against the pad on the piston side of the caliper, pushing the caliper piston all the way into the bore (see illustration). As the piston is pressed inward, watch the fluid level in the brake fluid reservoir rise, being careful to remove any excess so

that fluid will not spill over.

3.5a

Remove the lower lockbolt and pivot the caliper upward...

5 Remove the lower caliper bolt and pivot the caliper up off the pads (see illustration). Slide the caliper upper bolt out of the bracket and tie the caliper up so it doesn’t hang by the brake hose (see illustration). 6 Remove the anti-rattle springs from the pads (see illustrations).

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i4 :

4 z UA

3.5b ... then slip the upper bolt out of the bracket and tie the caliper up so it doesn’t hang by the brake hose

3.6a Remove the upper spring from the pads; note how the ends fit into holes in the pad backing plates

3.6b

Remove the lower spring

9-4

Chapter9

3.7 Check the boots and replace them if they’re cracked or deteriorated

3.10a

7

Clip the shims onto the backs of the pads

Brakes

3.8 Remove the pads and shims, then remove the clips from the bracket

3.9 Place the upper and lower clips in the bracket

3.10b Apply anti-squeal compound to the brake pad backing plates where the piston and caliper fingers contact them

3.10c Make sure the clips are in place...

Check the rubber boots for cracks or, deterioration and install new

ones if any problems are found (see illustration). 8 Remove the pads, shims (there’s one on each pad) (see illustration). 9 Install new clips in the caliper bracket notches (see 10 Install new shims on the backs of the pads (see Apply a coating of anti-squeal compound to the caliper

and the clips

illustration). illustration). contact areas

on the shims (see illustration). Be careful not to get any on or near the

brake pad friction surfaces. Instajl the pads between the clips (see illustrations). 11 Coat the upper mounting (lock) bolt with high-temperature brake grease (see illustration). With the caliper piston pressed all the way into the bore, slip the upper bolt into its bushing (make sure the boot is installed), then pivot the caliper down over the pads. :

:

3.10d .:. then position the pads between the clips and press them against the disc, then install the anti-rattle springs

3.11

Coat the pin end of the upper bolt with high-temperature grease

Chapter9

Brakes

12 Apply high-temperature brake grease to the lower bolt (see illustration). Push the bolt through the caliper and boot into the bushing, then thread the bolt into the caliper and tighten it to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 13 Repeat Steps 4 through 12 for the opposite wheel brake pad replacement. 14 Check the brake fluid level and remove or add brake fluid as necessary. Reinstall the reservoir cap. Warning: Press the brake pedal several times and recheck the brake fluid level in the reservoir before driving the vehicle.

4

Disc brake caliper (front) - removal, overhaul and installation

Warning: Dust created by the brake system may contain asbestos, which is harmful to your health. Never blow it out with compressed air and don’t inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. Do not, under any circumstances, use

petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts. Use brake system cleaner. Note: /f an overhaul is indicated (usually because of fluid leakage), explore all options before beginning the job. New and factory rebuilt calipers are available on an exchange basis, which makes this job quite easy. If you decide to rebuild the calipers, make sure a rebuild kit is available before proceeding. Always rebuild the calipers in pairs - never rebuild just one of them.

Removal 1

Loosen the front wheel lug nuts, raise the front of the vehicle and

place it securely on jackstands. Remove the wheel and prepare for disassembly. 2 Remove the brake hose bolt (banjo bolt) and disconnect the brake hose from the caliper (see illustration 3.4). Plug the brake hose to keep contaminants out of the brake system and to prevent losing any more brake fluid than is necessary. Note: Don’t disconnect the hose if you are only removing the caliper for access to other components. 3 Remove the caliper mounting bolts (lock bolts) and remove the caliper.

Overhaul Refer to illustrations 4.6, 4.7 and 4.8 4 Clean the exterior of the caliper with brake system cleaner (never use gasoline, kerosene or any petroleum-based solvents), then place the caliper on a clean workbench. 5 Before you remove the piston, place a wood block or some rags

4.6 Using a wood block as a cushion, use compressed air to ease the piston out of its bore - make sure your hands or fingers are not between the piston and caliper

3.12 Coat the pin end of the lower lockbolt with high-temperature grease, then tighten it to the specified torque between the piston and caliper to prevent damage as it is removed. 6 To remove the piston from the caliper, apply compressed air to the brake fluid hose connection on the caliper body (see illustration). Use only enough pressure to ease the piston out of its bore. Warning: Be careful not to place your fingers between the piston and the caliper, as the piston may come out with some force. 7 Carefully pry the dust boot out of the caliper body (see illustration). 8 Using a wooden or plastic tool, remove the piston seal from the groove in the caliper bore (see illustration). Metal tools may cause bore damage. 9 Remove the caliper bleeder valve. Discard all rubber parts. 10 Inspect the mating surfaces of the piston and caliper bore wall. If there is any scoring, rust, pitting or bright areas, replace the complete caliper unit with a new one. Crocus cloth can be used to remove light corrosion and stains. 11 If these components are in good condition, wash them with brake system cleaner and allow them to dry. 12 To reassemble the caliper, you should already have the correct rebuild kit for your vehicle. 13 Submerge the new piston seal and the piston in brake fluid and install the piston seal in its groove in the caliper bore. 14 Install the piston into the caliper bore. Do not force the piston into the bore, but make sure it is squarely in place, then apply firm (but not excessive) force by hand to install it. 15 Install the new piston dust boot and work it into the caliper

groove.

4.7 Pry the dust boot out of the caliper bore with a screwdriver - make sure you

don’t nick or gouge anything

4.8 Remove the seal from the piston using a plastic or wooden tool, such as a pencil

Chapter 9

Brakes

;

5.3 The brake pads on this vehicle were obviously neglected, as they wore down to the rivets and cut deep grooves into the disc wear this severe means the disc must be replaced

16 17 ture 18 (see

Reinstall the bleeder screw and rubber cap. Clean the bolt sleeves and lightly coat them with high-temperagrease. Reinstall the sleeves. At this time, inspect the brake disc to be sure that it is reusable Section 5).

Installation 19 Install the caliper by reversing the removal procedure. Remember to replace the copper sealing washers (gaskets) at the brake hose-tocaliper connection (new washers normally come with the rebuild kit). Tighten the mounting bolts (lock bolts) to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 20 Bleed the brake circuit according to the procedure in Section 10. Make sure there are no leaks from the hose connections. Test the brakes carefully before returning the vehicle to normal service.

5

Brake disc - inspection, removal and installation

Inspection Refer to illustrations 5.3, 5.4a, 5.4b, 5.5a and 5.5b

1 Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Remove the wheel and install the lug nuts to hold the disc in place. It may be necessary to place washers under the nuts so the disc is held tightly to the hub.

5.4b Using a swirling motion, remove the glaze from the disc surface with sandpaper or emery cloth

a

A

:

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5.4a To check disc runout, mount a dial indicator as shown and rotate the disc

2 Remove the brake caliper as outlined (front brakes see Section 4, rear brakes see Section 7) but it is not necessary to disconnect the brake hose. After removing the caliper bolts, suspend the caliper out of the way with a piece of wire (see illustration 3.5b). 3 Visually inspect the disc surface for score marks and other damage. Light scratches and shallow grooves are normal after use and may not always be detrimental to brake operation, but deep scoring over 0.039-inch (1.0 mm) - requires refinishing by an automotive machine shop. Be sure to check both sides of the disc (see illustration). If pulsating has been noticed during application of the brakes, suspect disc runout. 4 To check disc runout, place a dial indicator at a point about 1/2inch from the outer edge of the disc (see illustration). Set the indicator to zero and rotate the disc slowly by hand. The indicator reading should not exceed the specified allowable runout limit. If it does, the disc must be refinished by an automotive machine shop. Note: The discs should be resurfaced regardless of the dial indicator reading, as this will impart a smooth finish and ensure a perfectly flat surface, eliminating any brake pedal pulsation or other undesirable symptoms related to questionable discs. At the very least, if you elect not to have the discs resurfaced, remove the glaze from the surface with emery cloth or sandpaper, using a swirling motion (see illustration). 5 It is critical that the disc is notmachined to a thickness less than the specified minimum thickness. The minimum wear (or discard) thickness is cast into the inside of the disc (see illustration). The disc thickness can be checked with a micrometer (see illustration).

5.5a The minimum wear dimension is cast into the back side of the disc

5.5b

Use a micrometer to measure disc thickness

Chapter9

5.6a

Remove the bolts (arrows) and lift off the caliper bracket. . .

6.7a

A B_ C D E F

Brakes

5.6b

...the disc can then be slipped off the wheel studs

Rear brake details

Manual adjustment plug Caliper lower mounting (lock) bolt Lower pad spring Upper pad spring Brake pads Pin boots

G__ H_ !

J

Brake hose banjo bolt Bleeder valve cap Caliper bracket lower mounting bolt (upper bolt not visible) Parking brake cable bracket bolt

Removal Refer to illustrations 5.6a and 5.6b 6 _Unbolt the brake caliper bracket, then remove the disc from the hub (see illustrations).

Installation 7

Place the disc in position over the wheel studs.

8

Install the caliper bracket. Tighten the bracket bolts to the torque

listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

9 _ Install the caliper and brake pads (Sections 4 and 3). 10 Instali the wheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground. Tighten the lug nuts to the torque listed in the Chapter 1 Specifications. 411. Check the fluid level in the brake reservoir. Remove or add fluid as needed. Depress the brake pedal a few times to bring the brake pads into contact with the disc. Bleeding won’t be necessary unless the brake hose was disconnected from the caliper. Check the operation of the brakes carefully before driving the vehicle.

6

Disc brake pads (rear) - replacement

Refer to illustrations 6.7a, 6.7b, 6.8 and 6.9 Warning: Disc brake pads must be replaced on both rear wheels at the same time - never replace the pads on only one wheel. The dust created by the brake system may contain asbestos, which is harmful to your health. Never blow brake dust out with compressed air and don’t inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. Do not, under any circumstances, use petroleumbased solvents to clean brake parts. Use brake system cleaner only! 1 Remove the cap from the brake fluid reservoir. 2 Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the rear of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Block the wheels at the opposite end. 3 Remove the wheels. Work on one brake assembly at a time, using the assembled brake for reference if necessary. 4 If checking brake pads for wear, see Chapter 1. Inspect the brake disc carefully, as outlined in Section 5.

5 If machining is necessary, follow the information in Section 5 to remove the disc, at which time the pads can be removed as well. 6 Open the hood, and carefully remove the cap from the brake fluid reservoir. 7 Remove the plug from the manual adjustment gear screw (see illustrations). 8 Pull the brake caliper piston inward by rotating the manual adjust-

Chapter 9

6.8 Using an Allen wrench, rotate the manual adjustment gear counterclockwise to retract the brake pads

6.9 Unscrew the caliper lower mounting bolt...

ment gear counterclockwise with an Allen wrench (see illustration). As

the piston is pulled inward, watch the fluid level in the brake fluid reservoir rise, being careful to remove any excess so the fluid will not spill over. 9 Remove the caliper lower mounting bolt (lock bolt) (see illustration). 10 Swing the caliper up for access to the brake pads (see illustration). 11. Remove the M-shaped spring from the caliper. 12

Brakes

Remove the brake pads, shim plates and the caliper guide plates

(see illustrations). 13 With the new replacement brake pads ready, apply a light coating of anti-squeal compound to the brake pad backing plates (see illustration 3.10b). Be careful to not get any on or near the brake pad friction surfaces. 14 With the caliper piston pushed inward fully, install the new pads with the outer shim and the inner shim. 15 Reinstall the caliper guides and the M-shaped spring (see illustration 6.7). Rotate the caliper down over the pads. 16 Reinstall the caliper lower mounting bolt (lock bolt) tightening it to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 17 Turn the manual adjustment gear clockwise (see illustration 6.8) until the brake pads contact the brake disc. Then turn the manual adjustment gear 1/3 turn counterclockwise. 18 Reinstall the manual adjustment gear plug and tighten it securely. 19 Check the brake fluid reservoir level and remove or add brake

6.10

...and pivot the caliper upward to expose the pads

fluid as necessary. Reinstall the brake fluid reservoir cap. 20 Repeat Steps 6 through 19 for the opposite wheel brake pad replacement. 21 After the job has been completed, firmly depress the brake pedal a few times to bring the pads into contact with the disc. Check the leVel of the brake fluid, adding some if necessary. Check the operation of the brakes carefully before placing the vehicle into normal service.

7

Disc brake caliper (rear) - removal and installation

Warning: Dust created by the brake system may contain asbestos, which is harmful to your health. Never blow it out with compressed air and do not inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. Do not, under any circumstances, use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts. Use brake system

cleaner.

:

Note: Due to the complexity of the rear calipers on these models, we do not recommend overhauling them. Replacing them as a pair with rebuilt units will provide better service for less cost.

Removal

a

1 Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts, raise the rear of the vehicle and place it securely on jackstands. Remove the wheel. 2 Remove the parking brake cable from the caliper.

an

6.12a

Note how the clip and spring are installed . . .

6.12b

... then remove the pads

Chapter9

9-9

Brakes

Sh

8.8a The brake fluid reservoir is retained by a screw

8.1 Brake master cylinder mounting details Warning light switch harness Brake line union bolt Flare nuts Left mounting nut (right mounting nut hidden) mooOwue. Power brake booster vacuum hose

3 Remove the brake hose bolt (banjo bolt) and disconnect the brake hose from the caliper (see illustration 6.7a). Plug the brake hose to keep contaminants out of the brake system and to prevent losing any more brake fluid than is necessary). 4 Remove the rear disc manual adjustment gear plug (see illustration 6.8). 5 Move the brake caliper piston inward by rotating the manual adjustment gear counterclockwise (see illustration 6.8). 6 Remove the lower caliper mounting bolt (lock bolt) (see illustration 6.7a). 7 On 1994 and later models, remove the caliper upper mounting bolt. 8 Remove the caliper from the bracket.

Installation 9 Install the caliper by reversing the removal procedure. Remember to replace the copper sealing washers (gaskets) at the brake hose-tocaliper connection. 10 Turn the manual adjustment gear clockwise until the brake pads contact the brake disc, then turn the adjustment gear 1/3 turn counterclockwise. Reinstall the plug and tighten it securely. 11. Bleed the brake circuit according to the procedure in Section 10. Make sure there are no leaks from the hose connections. Test the brakes carefully before returning the vehicle to normal service.

8

Master cylinder - removal, overhaul and installation

Note: Before deciding to overhaul the master cylinder, check on the availability and cost of a new or factory rebuilt unit and also the availability of a rebuild kit. If you decide to rebuild the cylinder, inspect the bore as described in Step 12 before purchasing parts.

Refer to illustration 8.1 1 Follow the wiring harness from the master cylinder to the electrical connector for the fluid level warning switch (see illustration). Unplug the connector. Check continuity with an ohmmeter at the level level is above MIN.

2 Carefully remove the brake fluid reservoir cap and remove as much fluid as possible from the reservoir with a syringe. Check continuity of the level sensor; continuity should be measured when fluid level is below the MIN level. 3 Place rags under the fittings and prepare caps or plastic bags to cover the ends of the lines once they are disconnected. Caution: Brake fluid will damage paint. Cover all body parts and be careful not to spill fluid during this procedure. Loosen the fittings at the ends of the brake lines where they enter the master cylinder (see illustration 8.1). To prevent rounding off the flats, use a flare-nut wrench, which wraps

around the fitting hex. 4 Remove the nuts and washers attaching the master cylinder to the power brake booster (see illustration 8.1). 5 Pull the brake lines away from the master cylinder and plug the ends to prevent contamination. Slide the proportioning valve mounting

bracket off the studs. 6 Pull the master cylinder off the studs to remove it. Again, be careful not to spill the fluid as this is done.

Overhaul

Removal

sensor terminals; no continuity should be measured

8.8b After the reservoir has been removed, pull the grommets from the master cylinder body; if they’re hard, cracked or damaged, or have been leaking, replace them

when the fluid

Refer to illustrations 8.8a, 8.8b, 8.9, 8.10, 8.11a, 8.11b and 8.11c

7 Before attempting the overhaul of the master cylinder, obtain the proper rebuild kit, which will contain the necessary replacement parts and also any instructions which are specific to your model. 8 Remove the reservoir retaining screw, pull off the reservoir and remove the grommets (see illustrations).

9-10

Chapter 9 Brakes

a

ie

8.9 Using a Phillips screwdriver, depress the pistons, then remove the stopper bolt or screw; be sure to replace the sealing washer for the stopper bolt

ce

gee

8.10 Depress the pistons again and remove the snap-ring with a pair of snap-ring pliers

8.1 1a After the snap-ring has been removed, the primary (No. 1) piston assembly can be removed

8.11b

If necessary, tap the master cylinder against a block of wood to eject the secondary piston

9 Place the cylinder in a vise ahd use a punch or Phillips screwdriver to depress the pistons until they bottom against the other end of the master cylinder. Hold the pistons in this position and remove the stopper bolt or screw from the master cylinder (see illustration). 10 Carefully remove the snap-ring at the end of the master cylinder (see illustration). 11 The internal components can now be removed from the bore (see illustrations). Make a note of the proper order of the components so they can be returned to their original locations. Note: The two springs are different, so pay particular attention to their installed order. 12 Carefully inspect the bore of the master cylinder. Any score marks or other damage mean that a new master cylinder is required. DO NOT attempt to hone the bore. 13 Replace all parts included in the rebuild kit, following any instructions in the kit. Clean all re-used parts with brake system cleaner. Warning: Do not use any petroleum-based solvents. During reassembly, lubricate all parts liberally with clean, fresh brake fluid. 14 Push the assembled components into the bore, bottoming them against the end of the master cylinder, then install the stopper bolt. 15 Push in on the primary piston again and install the new snap-ring, 8.11c

Brake master cylinder - exploded view

making sure it's seated properly in the BOC re:

16

Install the reservoir grommets, reservoir and reservoir mounting

71

Reservoir

5

2 3

Master cylinder body Reservoir cap

Primary piston

screw.

6 7

Secondary piston Reservoir grommets

8

Stopper bolt or screw

17 Before installing the master cylinder, it should be bench bled. Since you'll have to apply pressure to the master cylinder piston and,

4

Snap-ring

$

at the same time, control flow from the brake line outlets, the master

Chapter 9

Brakes

9.3 Unscrew the brake line threaded fitting with a flare-nut

9.4 Pull off the U-clip with a pair of pliers

wrench to protect the fitting corners from being rounded off

cylinder should be mounted in a vise, with the jaws of the vise clamping on the mounting flange. 18 Insert threaded plugs into the brake line outlet holes and snug them down so no air will leak past them, but not so tight that they cannot be easily loosened. 19 Fill the reservoir with brake fluid of the recommended type (see Chapter 1). 20 Remove one plug and push the piston assembly into the bore to expel the air from the master cylinder. A large Phillips screwdriver can be used to push on the piston assembly. 21 To prevent air from being drawn back into the master cylinder, the plug must be replaced and snugged down before releasing the pressure on the piston. 22 Repeat the procedure until only brake fluid is expelled from the brake line outlet hole. When only brake fluid is expelled, repeat the procedure at the other outlet hole and plug. Be sure to keep the master cylinder reservoir filled with brake fluid to prevent the introduction of any additional air into the master cylinder system while bleeding it. 23 Since high pressure is not involved in the bench bleeding procedure, an alternative to the removal and replacement of the plugs with each stroke of the piston assembly is available. Before pushing in on the piston assembly, remove the plug as described in Step 20. Before releasing the piston, however, instead of replacing the plug, simply put your finger tightly over the hole to keep air from being drawn back into the master cylinder. Wait several seconds for brake fluid to be drawn from the reservoir into the bore, then depress the piston again, removing your finger as brake fluid is expelled. Be sure to put your finger back over the hole each time before releasing the piston, and when the bleeding procedure is complete for that outlet, replace the plug and tighten it before going on to the other port.

Installation 24 Install the master cylinder and proportioning valve bracket over the studs on the power brake booster, install the washers, and tighten the nuts only finger-tight at this time. 25 Thread the brake line flare nuts into the master cylinder. Since the master cylinder is still loose, it can be moved slightly so the flare nuts thread in easily by hand. Be careful not to strip the threads as the fittings are tightened. Connect the remaining brake line to the master cylinder with the 26 union bolt, using a new sealing washer on each side of the fitting. 27 Tighten the master cylinder mounting nuts and union bolt to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. Tighten the brake line flare nuts securely using a flare-nut wrench. Fill the master cylinder reservoir with fluid, then bleed the master 28 cylinder and the brake system (see Section 10). To bleed the master cylinder on the vehicle, have an assistant depress the brake pedal and

hold it down while you loosen the fitting to allow air and fluid to

escape. Tighten the fitting, then allow your assistant to return the pedal to its rest position. Repeat this procedure on all fittings until the fluid is free of air bubbles. Check the operation of the brake system carefully before driving the vehicle.

9

Brake hoses and lines - inspection and replacement

Inspection

:

1 About every six months, with the vehicle raised and supported securely on jackstands, the rubber hoses which connect the steel brake lines with the front and rear brake assemblies should be inspected for cracks, chafing of the outer cover, leaks, blisters and other damage. These are important and vulnerable parts of the brake system and inspection should be complete. A light and mirror will be helpful for a thorough check. If a hose exhibits any of the above conditions, replace it with a new one.

Replacement Front brake hose Refer to illustrations 9.3 and 9.4 2 Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Remove the wheel. 3

At the frame bracket, unscrew the brake line fitting from the hose

(see illustration). Use a flare-nut wrench to prevent rounding off the corners and hold the hose fitting with an open-end wrench. 4 Remove the U-clip from the female fitting at the bracket with a pair of pliers (see illustration), then pass the hose through the bracket. 5 At the caliper end of the hose, remove the banjo fitting bolt, then separate the hose from the caliper. Note that there are two copper sealing washers on either side of the fitting - these sealing washers should be replaced with new ones during installation. 6 To install the hose, pass the caliper fitting end through any bracket, as necessary, then connect the fitting to the caliper with the banjo bolt and new copper sealing washers. Make sure the locating lug on the fitting is engaged with the hole in the caliper, then tighten the bolt to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 7 Push the hose support into the strut bracket and install the U-clip, as necessary. Make sure the hose is not twisted between the caliper and any brackets. 8 Route the hose into the frame bracket, again making sure it is not twisted, then connect the brake line fitting, starting the threads by hand. Install the U-clip, then tighten the fitting securely. 9 Bleed the caliper (see Section 10). 10 Install the wheel and lug nuts, lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts to the torque listed in the Chapter 1 Specifications.

—

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Chapter9

9-12

Brakes

Rear brake hose 11. The rear brake hose serves as the flexible connection between two rigid metal lines, one on the body and the other on the suspension. Both ends of the hose are attached to these metal lines with threaded fittings and U-clips. Refer to Steps 2, 3 and 4 above. Be sure to bleed the wheel cylinder when you’re done (See Section 10).

Metal brake lines 12

When

replacing brake lines, be sure to use the correct parts.

Don’t use copper tubing for any brake system components. Purchase steel brake lines from a dealer or auto parts store. 13 Prefabricated brake line, with the tube ends already flared and fittings installed, is available at auto parts stores and dealer parts departments. If pre-bent lines are not available, remove the defective line and

purchase a straight section of brake line (with the fittings attached and the ends flared) that measures as close as possible to the length of the original line (including the bends). Using the proper tubing bending tools, bend the new line to resemble the original. 14 When installing the new line, make sure it is securely supported in the bracket(s) and has plenty of clearance between moving or hot components. /15

Brake hydraulic system - bleeding

Refer to illustration 10.8 Warning: Wear eye protection when bleeding the brake system. If the fluid comes in contact with your eyes, immediately rinse them with - water and seek medical attention. Do not get any brake fluid on the brake pads. Note: Bleeding the hydraulic system is necessary to remove any air that manages to find its way into the system when it has been opened during removal and installation of a hose, line, caliper or master cylinder. 1

‘

If a brake line is disconnected at the brake master cylinder, or if

air has entered it due to low fluid level in the brake master cylinder reservoir, start bleeding the brakes at the wheel cylinder or caliper farthest from the brake master cylinder, and move to the next closest wheel cylinder or caliper until all four wheels are bled. 2 If a brake line was disconnected only at a wheel, then only that caliper or wheel cylinder must be bled. 3 If a brake line is disconnected at a fitting located between the master cylinder and any of the brakes, that part of the system served by the disconnected brake line must be bled.

4

screw at the caliper or wheel cylinder and then submerged in

brake fluid - air will be seen as bubbles in the tube and container (all air must be expelled before moving to the next wheel)

After installation, check the master cylinder fluid level and add

fluid as necessary. Bleed the brake system (see Section 10) and test the brakes carefully before driving the vehicle in traffic.

10

10.8 When bleeding the brakes, a hose is connected to the bleed

Remove any residual vacuum from the brake power booster by

applying the brake several times with the engine off. 5 Remove the master cylinder reservoir cover and fill the reservoir with brake fluid. Reinstall the cover. Note: Check the fluid level often during the bleeding operation and add fluid as necessary to prevent the fluid level from falling low enough to allow air bubbles into the master cylinder. 6 Have an assistant on hand, as well as a supply of new brake fluid, a clear plastic container partially filled with clean brake fluid, a length of plastic, rubber or vinyl tubing to fit over the bleeder valve and a wrench to open and close the bleeder valve.

7 For a brake system bleeding of all four wheels, begin at the right rear wheel; remove the bleeder cap and attach the vinyl hose to the bleeder valve. Loosen the bleeder valve slightly, then tighten it to a point where it is snug but can still be loosened quickly and easily. If bleeding only specific wheels or portions of the brake system, follow the appropriate Steps below. 8 Place one end of the tubing over the bleeder valve and submerge the other end in brake fluid in the container (see illustration). 9 Have the assistant depress the brake pedal and hold it down firmly. 10 While the pedal is held down, open the bleeder valve just enough

to allow a flow of fluid to leave the valve. Watch for air bubbles to exit the submerged end of the tubing. When the fluid flow slows after a couple of seconds, close the valve and have your assistant release the pedal. 11 Repeat Steps 9 and 10 until no more air is seen leaving the tubing, then tighten the bleeder valve securely and proceed to the left rear wheel, the right front wheel and the left front wheel, in that order, and

perform the same procedure. Be sure to check the fluid in the master cylinder reservoir frequently, keeping it about 3/4 full during bleeding. Note: A/ways use new, fresh brake fluid. Old fluid or fluid from an opened container contains moisture which can boil, rendering the brakes useless. 12 At the end of the operation, refill the master cylinder with fluid to the MAX mark on the reservoir. 13 Check the operation of the brakes. The pedal should feel solid when depressed, with no sponginess. If necessary, repeat the entire brake system bleeding. Warning: Do not operate the vehicle if you are in doubt about the effectiveness of the brake system.

11

Power brake booster - check, removal and installation

Operating check 1 Depress the brake pedal several times with the engine off and make sure there’s no change in the pedal reserve distance (distance from the pedal to the floor). 2 _ Depress the pedal and start the engine. If the pedal goes down slightly, operation is normal.

Airtightness check 3 Start the engine and turn it off after one or two minutes. Depress the brake pedal slowly several times. If the pedal depresses less each time, the booster is airtight. 4 _ Depress the brake pedal while the engine is running, then stop the engine with the pedal held depressed. If there is no change in the pedal reserve travel after holding the pedal for 30 seconds, the booster is airtight. Note: /f the airtightness check fails in either Step above, first try checking and/or replacing the power brake booster vacuum hose/check valve and repeat the airtightness check.

Removal Refer to illustration 11.10

5 Power brake booster units shouldn’t be disassembled. They require special tools not normally found in most automotive repair stations or shops. Because of its critical relationship to brake performance, the booster should be replaced with a new or rebuilt one.

Chapter9

Brakes

11.15a bus

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Measure the distance from the master cylinder pocket to the end of the cylinder body...

11.10 To disconnect the power brake booster pushrod from the brake pedal, remove the retaining clip and clevis pin (A); to detach the booster from the firewall, remove the four mounting nuts

(B, one nut hidden)

6 Disconnect the vacuum hose/check valve leading from the engine to the booster (see illustration 8.1). Be careful not to damage the hose when removing it from the booster fitting. 7 Remove the brake master cylinder (see Section 8). 8 Remove the steering column lower finish panel (See Chapter 11). 9 Remove the pedal return spring. 10 Locate the pushrod clevis connecting the booster to the brake pedal (see illustration). Remove the cotter pin from the clevis pin with pliers and pull out the clevis pin. 11. Remove the four nuts holding the brake booster to the firewall (see illustration 11.10). You may need a light to see the mounting nuts.

12 Slide the booster straight out from the firewall until the studs clear the holes. Be careful not to tear or damage the brake booster gasket between the firewall and the booster.

Installation Refer to illustrations 11.15a, 11.15b, 11.15c and 11.15d 13 Installation is basically the reverse of removal. Tighten the booster mounting nuts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. Be sure to use a new Clevis retaining clip if the old clip is loose. 14 When installing the power brake booster vacuum hose/check valve, be sure to install the vacuum

hose/check valve with the arrows

on the vacuum hose toward the engine. 15 If the power brake booster unit is being replaced, the clearance

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4

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411.15c ...now measure the protrusion of the cylinder pushrod past the mounting surface; it should be slightly less than the depth of the pocket

11.15b ... then measure the distance from the mounting surface to the end of the cylinder body. Subtract this measurement from the first one; that will tell you the depth of the pocket from the mounting surface...

between the master cylinder piston and the pushrod in the power brake booster must be measured and, if necessary, adjusted. Note: This step applies to non-ABS models only. Vehicles equipped with ABS require special measuring tools to set the clearance accurately. If your vehicle is equipped with ABS, have the adjustment done by a Mazda dealer or other qualified repair shop. Using a depth micrometer or vernier caliper, calculate the distance from the pocket of the primary piston to the master cylinder mounting flange (see illustrations). Next, with the engine running for vacuum applied to the power brake booster

11.15d To adjust the length of the booster pushrod, hold the serrated portion of the rod with a pair of pliers and turn the adjusting screw in or out, as necessary, to achieve the desired setting

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Brakes

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Remove the screw and detach the cover...

travel is obtained (or vacuum applied by a vacuum pump, if desired), measure the distance from the end of the vacuum booster pushrod to the mounting face of the booster where the master cylinder mounting flange seats (see illustration). Subtract the depth of the piston pocket from the protrusion of the pushrod to calculate the clearance and compare your findings with the values listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. If not, turn the adjusting screw on the end of the power booster pushrod until the clearance is within the specified limit (see illustration). 16 After the final installation of the master cylinder and brake hoses and lines, the brake pedal height and freeplay must be adjusted and the brake system must be bled. See the appropriate Sections of this Chapter for the procedures.

the rear end just until the tires are off the ground, then place it securely on jackstands. Place the transmission in Neutral and release the parking brake completely. 4 Turn the adjusting nut until the desired travel is attained (see illustration). 5 Pull the parking brake lever one click. The parking brake warning light should come on. Release the lever and make sure the rear wheels turn freely. 6 Install the cover and lower the vehicle.

13 12

Parking brake - adjustment

Refer to illustrations 12.2 and 12.4 1 The parking brake lever, when properly adjusted, should travel the number of clicks listed in the Chapter 1 Specifications, when a moderate pulling force is applied. If it travels less than the specified minimum number of clicks, the parking brake may not be releasing completely and could cause the rear brakes to drag. If the lever can be pulled up more than the specified maximum number of clicks, the parking brake may not hold adequately on an incline, allowing the car to roll. 2 To gain access to the parking brake cable adjuster, remove the lever cover (see illustration).

3

Securely block the front wheels so the vehicle won’t roll. Jack up

4

Parking brake cables - replacement

Equalizer-to-brake lever cable Refer to illustrations 13.4a and 13.4b 1 Loosen the rear wheel. lug nuts, raise the rear of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Block the front wheels. Remove the wheel. ‘ 2 Make sure the parking brake is completely released. Remove the console at the parking brake lever (See Chapter 11). 3 Remove the parking brake lever adjusting nut. 4 Under the vehicle, it is best to remove the exhaust and heat shield components in the area of the parking brake cable connection to the parking brake lever. Remove the return spring and front parking cable (see illustrations).

13.4b

... then unbolt the grommet (arrow) and remove the front parking cable

Chapter9

13.8 Remove the retaining clips at the equalizer (arrows) and detach the forward end of the parking brake cable

13.9

9-15

14.1 Brake pedal height is the distance between the pedal and the firewall when the pedal is released

Loosen the cable nut and detach the end of the cable from the lever

5 Pry out the rubber grommet from the floorpan and pull the front parking cable out. 6 Installation is the reverse of removal. Apply a light coat of grease to the portion of the cable end that engages with the equalizer. Also coat the sealing edge of the rubber grommet with silicone to ensure that it remains watertight.

Equalizer-to-parking brake cable Refer to illustrations 13.8 and 13.9 7 Remove the parking cable mounting bolts located along the vehicle chassis. 8 Remove the parking cable retaining clips at the equalizer (see illustration). 9 Detach the parking brake cable from the caliper (see illustration). Free the cable ends from the equalizer and pull the cable out from under the vehicle. 10 Installation is the reverse of removal. Apply a light coat of grease to the portion of the cable end that engages with the equalizer. 11. Adjust the parking brake when the parking brake cable is reinstalled (see Section 12).

14

Brakes

Brake pedal - check and adjustment

Pedai freeplay Refer to illustration 14.14 13 Stop the engine if it’s running, and depress the brake pedal several times until there’s no more vacuum left in the booster. 14 Gently press the pedal by hand until you feel some resistance, then measure the distance between the fully released pedal and the point at which you feel resistance (see illustration). Compare your measurement with the pedal freeplay listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. If the pedal freeplay is incorrect, adjust it as follows: 15 Adjust the brake pedal pushrod to obtain the specified pedal freeplay, then adjust the brake light switch as described. If the pedal freeplay cannot be adjusted properly, troubleshoot the brake system.

Pedal reserve 16 Start the engine, depress the brake pedal a few times, then press down hard and hold it. 17 Pedal reserve travel is measured from the floor to the top of the pedal while it is held depressed. Compare your measurement to the pedal reserve listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 18 If the pedal reserve is less than specified, check the adjustment of the power brake booster pushrod-to-master cylinder piston clearance. If the brake pedal feels spongy, bleed the brake system (see Sec-

tion 10).

f

Pedal height Refer to illustration 14.1 1 Measure the pedal height (see illustration) and compare your measurement to the pedal height listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 2 If the pedal height is incorrect, adjust it as follows: 3 Unplug the electrical connector from the brake light switch. 4 Loosen the brake light switch locknut and turn the brake switch until it does not contact the pedal. 5 _ Loosen the pushrod locknut. 6 Adjust the pedal height by turning the pedal pushrod. 7 _ Tighten the pushrod locknut. 8 Turn the brake light switch until it lightly contacts the pedal stopper, then turn the brake light switch an additional 1/2 turn. 9 Tighten the brake light switch locknut. 10 Plug in the brake light switch electrical connector. 11. Check that brake lights come on when the brake pedal is depressed, and go off when the brake pedal is released. 12 Check the pedal freeplay (see below).

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Check 1. ‘The brake light switch is located on a bracket at the top of the brake pedal. The switch activates the brake lights at the rear of the vehicle when the pedal is depressed. 2 To check the brake light switch, simply note whether the brake lights come on when the pedal is depressed and go off when the pedal is released. If they do not function correctly, adjust the switch as described in Section 14 (adjusting the switch is part of brake pedal adjustment). 3 If the lights still do not come on, either the switch is not getting voltage, the switch itself is defective, or the circuit between the switch

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all of the brake light bulbs are burned out, but this is not very likely. 4 Use a voltmeter or test light to verify that there’s voltage present at one side of the switch connector. If no voltage is present, troubleshoot the circuit from the switch to the fuse box. If there is voltage present, check for voltage on the other terminal when the brake pedal . is depressed: If no voltage is present, replace the switch. If there is voltage present, troubleshoot the circuit from the switch to the brake

lights (see the wiring diagrams at the end of Chapter 12).

Replacement 5 Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. 6 Unplug the electrical connector for the brake light switch. 7 Loosen the brake switch locknut and unscrew the switch from the pedal bracket. 8 Installation is the reverse of removal. 9 Adjust the brake pedal and brake light switch (See Section 14).

Chapter 10

Suspension and steering systems Contents Section Balllointse re plaGe nie mie x-ceecnenntees anc -eecvanceurnsc Deity se enicsaaceseavcrevsc pave if Gomera MOMMAOMe tee.cae cass ec. Sacro nex sees tecnceeebalct sce nas vidusateres Such ve 1 Hub and bearing assembly (front) - removal and installation......... 8 Lower control arm (front) - removal and installation ..............0 3 Lower control arm (rear) - removal, inspection and installation..... We Power steering fluid level CHECK..............::csscssssesneeeeeeeeees See Chapter 1 Power steering pump - removal and installation..............:cceseeeeeee 20 POWERStECrING SYSTEM = DICCCING a aisatcceesecsvseseeteccsnsseckervarseshsncesees 21 Rear hub and bearing assembly - removal and installation........... Ake Rear knuckle and hub assembly - removal and installation........... 14 Shock absorber/ coil spring assembly (front) - removal, INSOSCHON ANCVINSTANALOM

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Cruise control system - 1994 and later models

ACTUATOR

12

IND-1

Index A About this manual, 0-2 Accelerator cable, removal, installation and adjustment, 4-9 Air cleaner assembly, removal and installation, 4-9 Air conditioning system, 3-2 compressor, removal and installation, 3-13 condenser, removal and installation, 3-13 evaporator, removal and installation, 3-14 expansion valve, removal and installation, 3-14 receiver/drier, removal and installation, 3-12

Body, 11-1 through 11-16 general information, 11-1 maintenance, 11-1 damage repair major, 11-4 minor damage, 11-1

Booster battery jump starting, 0-13 Brakes, 9-1 through 9-16 caliper, removal, overhaul and installation, front, 9-5 rear, 9-8 check, 1-17

Air conditioning and heating system, check and

disc, inspection, removal and installation, 9-6 fluid, 1-8 hoses and lines, inspection and replacement, 9-11 hydraulic system, bleeding, 9-12 light switch, check and replacement, 9-16

maintenance, 3-11

Air filter replacement, 1-18 Airbag system, general information, 12-16 Airflow sensor/intake air temperature sensor, 6-5 Alternator, removal and installation, 5-6 Antenna, removal and installation, 12-11 Antifreeze, general information, 3-2

master cylinder, removal, overhaul and installation, 9-9 pad replacement, front, 9-2

Anti-lock Brake System (ABS), general information, 9-2 Anti-theft audio system, 0-13

rear, replacement, 9-7 parking adjustment, 9-14 cables, replacement, 9-14 pedal, check and adjustment, 9-15 power booster, check, removal and installation, 9-12

Automatic transmission, 7B-1 through 7B-6

diagnosis, general, 7B-2 fluid and filter change, 1-23 fluid level check, 1-12

general information, 7B-1 removal and installation, 7B-5

shift linkage, check and adjustment, 7B-2 shift-lock system, description, check and cable replacement, 7B-4

Bulb replacement, 12-8 Bumpers, removal and installation, 11-6 Buying parts, 0-6

Automotive chemicals and lubricants, 0-15

Cc Balljoints, replacement, 10-6 Battery cables, check and replacement, 5-2 check, maintenance and charging, 1-13 electrolyte, 1-8 ~ jump starting, 0-13 removal and installation, 5-2 Blower motor and circuit, check and component replacement, 3-7 Blower motor and housing, removal and installation, 3-7

Camshaft and crankshaft position sensors, removal and installation, 5-4 Camshafts and valve lifters, removal, inspection and installation, 2A-8 Camshaft oil seal(s), replacement, 2A-8 Camshaft Position Sensor, 6-6

Catalytic converter, 6-9 Center console, removal and installation, 11-12 Charcoal canister, replacement, 6-7

IND-2

Index.

pS

Charging system check, 5-6 general information and precautions, 5-5 Chassis electrical system, 12-1 through 12-36 Clutch components, removal, inspection and installation, 8-2 description and check, 8-2 driveaxles

Door latch, lock cylinder and handles, removal and installation, 11-10

trim panel, removal and installation, 11-9

window glass, removal, installation and adjustment, 11-11 removal, installation and adjustment, 11-10 Driveaxle

boot check, 1-20 replacement and CV joint inspection, 8-11 general information and inspection, 8-9

general information and inspection, 8-9 removal and installation, 8-9 driveshaft inspection, 8-8 removal and installation, 8-9 fluid, 1-8 hydraulic system, bleeding, 8-8

removal and installation, 8-9 Drivebelt check, adjustment and replacement, 1-15 Driveshaft inspection, 8-8 removal and installation, 8-9

master cylinder, removal, overhaul and installation, 8-6

pedal height and freeplay, check and adjustment, 1-12 pilot bearing, inspection and replacement, 8-5 release bearing and lever, removal, inspection and installation, 8-4 release cylinder, removal, overhaul and installation, 8-7 switch, check and replacement, 8-8

Clutch, driveshaft and driveaxles, 8-1 through 8-16 Combination switch, check, 12-4

removal and installation, 12-4 Compression check, 2B-5 Conversion factors, 0-16 Convertible top, removal, installation and adjustment, 11-15 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems, 3-1 through 3-14 Cooling system check, 1-17 coolant

temperature gauge sending unit, check and replacement, 3-6

temperature sensor, 6-3 servicing (draining, flushing and refilling), 1-22 Crankshaft front oil seal, replacement, 2A-16 removal, 2B-12 inspection, 2B-16 installation and main bearing oil clearance check, 2B-19 Crankshaft Position Sensor, 6-6 Cruise control system, description and check, 12-15 Cylinder head, cleaning and inspection, 2B-8 disassembly, 2B-8 reassembly, 2B-10 removal and installation, 2A-12 Cylinder honing, 2B-14

D Dashboard trim panels, removal and installation, 11-13 Daytime Running Lights (DRL), general information, 12-10 Detachable hard top, removal, installation and adjustment, 11-15 Diagnosis, 0-18

Diagnosis (automatic transmission), general, 7B-2 Differential assembly, removal and installation, 8-15 output shaft (driveaxle) oil seal, replacement, 8-14 pinion oil seal, replacement, 8-13 Disc brake caliper, removal, overhaul and installation, front, 9-5

rear, 9-8 pads, replacement, front, 9-2 rear, 9-7

E Electric side view mirrors, description and check, 12-14

Electrical systems, general information, 5-2 Electrical troubleshooting, general information, 12-1 Emissions and engine control systems, 6-1 through 6-10 Engines, 2A-1 through 2A-18 block cleaning, 2B-12 inspection, 2B-13 camshafts and valve lifters, removal, inspection and installation, 2A-8 camshaft oil seal(s), replacement, 2A-8 cooling system, 3-1 coolant, 1-7 general information, 6-2 fan and circuit, check and replacement, 3-3 crankshaft front oil seal, replacement, 2A-16 inspection, 2B-16 installation and main bearing oil clearance check, 2B-19 rear main oil seal, replacement, 2A-17 removal, 2B-12 cylinder head cleaning and inspection, 2B-8 disassembly, 2B-8 reassembly, 2B-10 removal and installation, 2A-12 cylinder honing, 2B-14 exhaust manifold, removal and installation, 2A-4 flywheel/driveplate, removal and installation, 2A-16 initial start-up and break-in after overhaul, 2B-22 intake manifold, removal and installation, 2A-4 main and connecting rod bearings, inspection and selection, 2B-16 mounts, check and replacement, 2A-17 oil check, 1-6 pan, removal and installation, 2A-13 pump, removal, inspection and installation, 2A-14 type, 1-1 oil and oil filter change, 1-10 overhaul disassembly sequence, 2B-7 reassembly sequence, 2B-17 piston rings, installation, 2B-17 pistons/connecting rods inspection, 2B-15 installation and rod bearing oil clearance check, 2B-21 removal, 2B-11 rear main oil seal installation, 2B-20 replacement, 2A-17 i

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Ae Sn Oht RyMie we Yl IND-3 a

rebuilding alternatives, 2B-7 removal and installation, 2B-6 removal, methods and precautions, 2B-5 repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle, 2A-2 timing belt and sprockets, removal and installation, 2A-5 Top Dead Center (TDC), locating, 2A-2

Igniter (1993 and earlier models), replacement, 5-4 Ignition system check, 5-3

valve

general information and precautions, 5-3 key lock cylinder, removal and installation, 12-5 switch, check and replacement, 12-5 timing, check and adjustment, 5-5 Information sensors, 6-3 airflow sensor/intake air temperature sensor, 6-5 Camshaft Position Sensor, 6-6 coolant temperature sensor, 6-3 Crankshaft Position Sensor, 6-6 Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor, 6-6

cover, removal and installation, 2A-3 servicing, 2B-10 springs, retainers and seals, replacement, 2A-11 Engine electrical systems, 5-1 through 5-8 Evaporative Emission Control (EVAP) system, 1-23, 6-6 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system, 6-8 Exhaust manifold, removal and installation, 2A-4 Exhaust system

check, 1-23 general information, 4-15

J Fault finding, 0-18 Fender, front, removal and installation, 11-7 Fluid level checks, 1-6 Flywheel/driveplate, removal and instailation, 2A-16

coil, check and replacement, 5-3

Mass airflow sensor, 6-5

oxygen sensor, 6-4 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), 6-5 Initial Start-up and break-in after overhaul, 2B-22 Instrument cluster, removal and installation, 12-11 Instrument panel, removal and installation, 11-14 Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor, 6-6 Intake manifold, removal and installation, 2A-4

Introduction to the Mazda Miata, 0-4

Fuel and exhaust systems, 4A-1 through 4A-16 Fuel system

check, 1-20 Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) system check, 4-10 component check and replacement, 4-11 general information, 4-10 filter replacement, 1-25 level sending unit, check and replacement, 4-6 lines and fittings, inspection and replacement, 4-5 pressure relief, 4-2 pump, removal and installation, 4-5 pump/fuel pressure, check, 4-2 tank

J Jacking and towing, 0-14

K Kickdown/4-3 switch, solenoid and relay, check and

replacement, 7B-4

cleaning and repair, general information, 4-8 removal and installation, 4-7 Fuses, general information, 12-2

L Lower control arm, removal and installation front, 10-3 rear, 10-9

G General engine overhaul procedures, 2B-1 through 2B-22

H Headlight bulb replacement and aim adjustment, 12-6

housing, removal and installation, 12-7 retractor motor and circuit, adjustment, check and component replacement, 12-7

Heater and air conditioning control assembly, removal, installation, check and adjustment, 3-9 Heater core, replacement, 3-8 Heating system, 3-2 Hinges and locks, maintenance, 11-5 Hood release latch and cable, removal and installation, 11-5 removal, installation and adjustment, 11-5 Horn, check and replacement, 12-12 Hub and bearing assembly front, removal and installation, 10-7

Main and connecting rod bearings, inspection and selection, 2B-16

Maintenance schedule, 1-5 techniques, tools and working facilities, 0-6 Manual transmission, 7A-1 through 7A-6 general information, 7A-1 lubricant change, 1-24 oil seal replacement, 7A-1 overhaul, general information, 7A-6 removal and installation, 7A-5 shift lever, removal and installation, 7A-3 torque arm, removal and installation, 7A-3 Manual transmission and differential lubricant level check, 1-18

Mass airflow sensor, 6-5 Master cylinder, removal, overhaul and installation, 9-9

IND-4 N Neutral start switch, check, adjustment and replacement, 7B-3

O

Oil

pan, removal and installation, 2A-13 pressure check, 2B-4

Index Shift linkage, check and adjustment, 7B-2 Shock absorber/coil spring assembly removal, inspection and installation, front, 10-4 rear, 10-8 | Spark plug check and replacement, 1-20 type, 1-1 wire check and replacement, 1-22 Speedometer cable, replacement, 7A-2 Stabilizer bar

front, removal, inspection and installation, 10-2

pump, removal, inspection and installation, 2A-14

On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) System and trouble codes, 6-2 Output shaft (driveaxle) oil seal, replacement, 8-14 Outside mirrors, removal and installation, 11-12 Oxygen sensor, 6-4

rear, removal and installation, 10-9 Starter motor removal and installation, 5-7 testing in vehicle, 5-7 Starting system general information and precautions, 5-7 column covers, removal and installation, 11-12

i

gear boots, replacement, 10-12 removal and installation, 10-12

Parking brake

adjustment, 9-14 cables, replacement, 9-14

knuckle, removal and installation, 10-8 wheel, removal and installation, 10-10

Pilot bearing, inspection and replacement, 8-5

Steering and suspension check, 1-19

Pinion oil seal, replacement, 8-13

Suspension and steering systems, 10-1 through 10-14

Piston rings, installation, 2B-17 Pistons/connecting rods inspection, 2B-15 installation and rod bearing oil clearance check, 2B-21 removal, 2B-11