Haynes Mazda 626 and MX-6 Ford Probe 1993 thru 2002 Automotive Repair Manual [61042] 1563929805, 9781563929809

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Mazda 626 and MX-6

Ford Probe Automotive Repair Manual

by Jay Storer and John H Haynes Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers

Models covered: All Mazda 626 - 1993 through 2002 Mazda MX-6 - 1993 through 1997 Ford Probe - 1993 through 1997

(3Q12 - 61042) BZ aaSON

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Haynes)

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AUTOMOTIVE Ne LOE oon ASSSCLTION MEIVBER

Haynes Publishing Group Sparkford Nr Yeovil Somerset BA22 7JJ England Haynes North America, Inc 861 Lawrence Drive

Newbury Park California 91320 USA

Aacoe ;

Acknowledgements Wiring diagrams originated exclusively for Haynes North America, Inc. by Valley Forge Technical Information Services. Technical writers who contributed to this project include Rob Maddox, Alan Ahlstrand and Larry Warren.

© Haynes North America, Inc. 1999, 2001, 2012 With permission from J.H. Haynes & Co. Ltd.

A book in the Haynes Automotive Repair Manual Series Printed in the U.S.A. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN-10: 1-56392-980-5 ISBN-13: 978-1-56392-980-9 Library of Congress Control Number 2012935593 While every attempt is made to ensure that the information in this manual is correct, no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

"Ford" and the Ford logo are registered trademarks of Ford Motor Company. Ford Motor Company is not a sponsor or affiliate of Haynes Publishing Group or Haynes North America, Inc. and is not a contribu-

tor to the content of this manual. 12-352

0-3

Contents Introductory pages About this manual Introduction Vehicle identification numbers Buying parts Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Anti-theft audio system Booster battery (jump) starting

0-5 0-5 0-6 0-7 0-7 0-15 0-15

Jacking and towing

0-16

Automotive chemicals and lubricants

ORil7e

Conversion factors

0-18

Fraction/decimal/millimeter equivalents

0-19

Safety first! Troubleshooting

0-20 0-21

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

Chapter2

PartA

Four-cylinder engine

Chapter2

2A-1

PartB

V6 engine

Chapter2

1-1

2B-1

PartC

General engine overhaul procedures

2C-1

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

3-1

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

4-1

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

5-1

Chapter 6 Emissions and engine control systems

Chapter7

PartA

Manual transaxle

Chapter7

6-1

TA-1

PartB

Automatic transaxle

7B-1

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles

8-1

Chapter 9 Brakes

9-1

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

10-1

Chapter 11 Body

11-1

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

12-1

Wiring diagrams

12-23

Index

IND-1

0-4

Haynes author, mechanic and photographer with 1993 Ford Probe

0-5

About this manual Its purpose The purpose of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done, even if you choose to have it done by a dealer service department or a repair shop; it provides information and procedures for routine maintenance and servicing; and it offers diagnostic and repair procedures to follow when trouble occurs. We hope you use the manual to tackle the work yourself. For many simpler jobs, doing it yourself may be quicker than arranging an appointment to get the vehicle into a shop and making the trips to leave it and pick it up. More importantly, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the expense the shop

must pass on to you to cover its labor and overhead costs. An added benefit is the sense of satisfaction and accomplishment that you feel after doing the job yourself.

Using the manual The manual is divided into Chapters. Each Chapter is divided into numbered Sections, which are headed in bold type between horizontal lines. Each Section consists of consecutively numbered paragraphs.

At the beginning of each numbered Section you will be referred to any illustrations which apply to the procedures in that Section. The reference numbers used in illustration captions pinpoint the pertinent Section and the Step within that Section. That is, illustration 3.2 means the illustration refers to Section 3 and Step (or paragraph) 2 within

that Section. Procedures, once described in the text, are not normally repeated. When it’s necessary to refer to another Chapter, the reference will be given as Chapter and Section number. Cross references given without use of the word “Chapter” apply to Sections and/or paragraphs in the same Chapter. For example, “see Section 8” means in the same Chapter. References to the left or right side of the vehicle assume you are sitting in the driver’s seat, facing forward. Even though we have prepared this manual with extreme care, neither the publisher nor the author can accept responsibility for any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

NOTE A Note provides information necessary to properly complete a procedure or information which will make the procedure easier to understand.

CAUTION A Caution provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the Caution is found. Not heeding a Caution can result in damage to the assembly being worked on.

WARNING A Warning provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the Warning is found. Not heeding a Warning can result in personal injury.

Introduction These models are available in two-door hatchback, coupe and four-door sedan body styles. The transversely mounted inline fourcylinder or V6 engines used in these models

are equipped with electronic fuel injection.

The engine drives the front wheels through either a five-speed manual or a fourspeed automatic transaxle via independent driveaxles. Independent suspension, featuring MacPherson struts, is used on all four wheels.

The power-assisted rack-and-pinion steering

unit is mounted behind the engine. The brakes are disc at the front and either disc or drum at the rear, with power

assist standard. Some models are equipped with Anti-lock Braking Systems (ABS).

Vehicle identification numbers Modifications

are

a continuing

and

unpublicized process in vehicle manufacturing. Since spare parts manuals and lists are compiled on a numerical basis, the individual

vehicle numbers are essential to correctly identify the component required.

Vehicle identification number

(VIN) This very important number is stamped on the firewall in the engine compartment and on a plate attached to the dashboard inside the windshield on the driver’s side of the vehicle. The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certificate of Title and Registration. It contains information such as where and when the vehicle was manufactured, the model year and the body style (see illustration).

VIN Engine and model year codes Two particularly important pieces of information found in the VIN are the engine code and model year code. Counting from the left, the engine code designation is the

eighth digit. The model year code is the 10th

digit.

Model year codes Ra1993 R= 1994 S = els e996 Weg

W = X= Y = Za

1998 1999 2000 00)

Engine codes Probe A = 2.0L DOHC four-cylinder engine B = 2.5L DOHC V6 engine

626 and MX-6 C = 2.0L DOHC four-cylinder engine D = 2.5L DOHC V6 engine The engine code number is commonly needed when ordering engine parts. Besides being a component of the VIN, this code can also be found on the front (radiator) side of the engine on the left (driver’s side) end below the oil filter on four-cylinder engines. On V6 engines it is found on the rear (firewall) side of the engine at the right (passenger’s side) end of the engine (see illustrations).

The Vehicle identification Number (VIN) is stamped into a metal plate fastened to the dashboard on the driver’s side - it is visible through the windshield

Transaxle number The transaxle number is commonly needed when ordering transaxle parts. On manual transaxles it’s located on the transaxle case. On automatic transaxles, it’s found on a tag on the front of the transaxle case (see illustration).

», The V6 engine code (arrow) is located on a pad near the right end of the engine block

The automatic transaxle identification label (arrow) is located on the front side

Buying parts Replacement parts are available from many sources, which generally fall into one of two categories - authorized dealer parts departments and independent retail auto parts stores. Our advice concerning these parts is as follows: Retail auto parts stores: Good auto parts stores will stock frequently needed components which wear out relatively fast, such as clutch components, exhaust systems, brake parts, tune-up parts, etc. These stores often supply new or reconditioned

parts on an exchange basis, which can save a considerable amount of money. Discount auto parts stores are often very good places to buy materials and parts needed for general vehicle maintenance such as oil, grease, filters, spark plugs, belts, touch-up paint, bulbs, etc. They also usually sell tools and general accessories, have convenient hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home. Authorized dealer parts department: This is the best source for parts which are

unique to the vehicle and not generally available elsewhere (such as major engine parts, transmission parts, trim pieces, etc.). Warranty information: l|f the vehicle is still covered under warranty, be sure that any replacement parts purchased - regardless of the source - do not invalidate the warranty! To be sure of obtaining the correct parts,

have

engine

and

chassis

numbers

available and, if possible, take the old parts along for positive identification.

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Maintenance techniques There are a number of techniques involved in maintenance and repair that will be referred to throughout this manual. Application of these techniques will enable the home mechanic to be more efficient, better organized and capable of performing the var-

ious tasks properly, which will ensure that the repair job is thorough and complete.

Fasteners Fasteners are nuts, bolts, studs and screws used to hold two or more parts together. There are a few things to keep in mind when working with fasteners. Almost all of them use a locking device of some type, either a lockwasher,

locknut, locking tab or

‘thread adhesive. All threaded fasteners should be clean and straight, with undam-

aged threads and undamaged corners on the

hex head where the wrench fits. Develop the habit of replacing all damaged nuts and bolts

with new ones. Special locknuts with nylon or fiber inserts can only be used once. If they are removed, they lose their locking ability and must be replaced with new ones. Rusted nuts and bolts should be treated with a penetrating fluid to ease removal and

prevent breakage. Some mechanics use turpentine in a spout-type oil can, which works quite well. After applying the rust penetrant, let it work for a few minutes before trying to loosen the nut or bolt. Badly rusted fasteners may have to be chiseled or sawed off or removed with a special nut breaker, available at tool stores. If a bolt or stud breaks off in an assem-

bly, it can be drilled and removed with a special tool commonly available for this purpose. Most automotive machine shops can perform

this task, as well as other repair procedures, such as the repair of threaded holes that have been stripped out. Flat washers and lockwashers, when removed from an assembly, should always be replaced exactly as removed. Replace any damaged washers with new ones. Never use a lockwasher on any soft metal surface (such as aluminum), thin sheet metal or plastic.

Fastener sizes For a number of reasons,

automobile

manufacturers are making wider and wider use of metric fasteners. Therefore, it is important to be able to tell the difference between standard (sometimes called U.S. or SAE) and

metric hardware, since they cannot be interchanged. All bolts, whether standard or metric, are sized according to diameter, thread pitch and

0-8

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

en

dard bolts have slashes radiating out from the center of the head to denote the grade or strength of the bolt, which is an indication of the amount of torque that can be applied to it. The greater the number of slashes, the greater the strength of the bolt. Grades 0 through 5 are commonly used on automobiles. Metric bolts have a property class (grade) number, rather than a slash, molded into their heads to indicate bolt strength. In this case, the higher the number, the stronger the bolt. Property class numbers 8.8, 9.8 and 10.9 are commonly used on automobiles. Strength markings can also be used to distinguish standard hex nuts from metric hex nuts. Many standard nuts have dots stamped into one side, while metric nuts are marked with a number. The greater the number of dots, or the higher the number, the

length. For example, a standard 1/2 - 13 x 1 bolt is 1/2 inch in diameter, has 13 threads per

inch and is 1 inch long. An M12 - 1.75 x 25 metric bolt is 12 mm in diameter, has a thread pitch of 1.75 mm (the distance between threads) and is 25 mm long. The two bolts are nearly identical, and easily confused, but they are not interchangeable. In addition to the differences in diameter, thread pitch and length, metric and stan-

dard bolts can also be distinguished by examining the bolt heads. To begin with, the distance across the flats on a standard bolt head is measured in inches, while the same dimension on a metric bolt is sized in millime-

ters (the same is true for nuts). As a result, a standard wrench should not be used on a metric bolt and a metric wrench should not be used on a standard bolt. Also, most stan-

Grade 5

Grade 1 or 2

greater the strength of the nut. Metric studs are also marked on their ends according to property class (grade). Larger studs are numbered (the same as metric bolts), while smaller studs carry a geometric code to denote grade. It should be noted that many fasteners, especially Grades 0 through 2, have no distinguishing marks on them. When such is the case, the only way to determine whether it is standard or metric is to measure the thread pitch or compare it to a known fastener of the same size. Standard fasteners are often referred to as SAE, as opposed to metric. However, it should be noted that SAE teshnically refers to a non-metric fine thread fastener only. Coarse thread non-metric fasteners are referred to as USS sizes.

Grade 8

Bolt strength marking (standard/SAE/USS; bottom - metric)

Grade

Identification

Grade

Hex Nut

oe ine

aa

Class 9

Grade

5

rope

Identification

A

‘g —~ ¢

:

:

/

Arabic 9

H

Hexex Nut

Nut

Grade 8

oeny Class 10 6 Dots

Standard hex nut strength markings

‘

Lx

C)

:

:

Class 10.9

Class 9.8

Class 8.8

Arabic 10

Metric hex nut

strength markings

Metric stud strength markings 00-1 HAYNES

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Since fasteners of the same size (both standard and metric) may have different

strength ratings, be sure to reinstall any bolts, studs or nuts removed from your vehicle in their original locations. Also, when replacing a fastener with a new one, make sure that the new one has a strength rating equal to or greater than the original.

Tightening sequences and procedures Most threaded fasteners should be tightened to a specific torque value (torque is the twisting force applied to a threaded com-

ponent such as a nut or bolt). Overtightening the fastener can weaken it and cause it to break, while undertightening can cause it to eventually come loose. Bolts, screws and

aluminum). As was previously mentioned, the size and grade of a fastener determine the amount of torque that can safely be applied to it. The figures listed here are approximate

studs, depending

for Grade 2 and Grade 3 fasteners. Higher grades can tolerate higher torque values. Fasteners laid out in a pattern, such as cylinder head bolts, oil pan bolts, differential cover bolts, etc., must be loosened or tightened in sequence to avoid warping the component. This sequence will normally be shown in the appropriate Chapter. If a specific pattern is not given, the following proce-

made

on the material they are

of and their thread diameters,

specific torque values, many

iL T D

of which

have are

noted in the Specifications at the beginning of each Chapter. Be sure to follow the torque recommendations closely. For fasteners not assigned a specific torque, a general torque value chart is presented here as a guide. These torque values are for dry (unlubricated) fasteners threaded into steel or cast iron (not

dures can be used to prevent warping.

Metric thread sizes NBG RRRSTAT cokes ee a Oa OT aaa Nei Ore, Be Ne By S27 a «se rr NA nalOlea iit vg tenes fale eee al te at iy fie Oy one I hen ES au. as a ale OL VARA ee 2 a mm ae Tee 4 ae

Ft-Ibs 6 to9 14 to 21 28 to 40 50 to 71 80 to 140

Pipe thread sizes St heise Rye aOR Rye ed Cs eh Nisha eae SA Bie etal aporectsatlaches sens MiNi Sy/fS git ck RRR Aiton Rn ned ec Ml ued “NEES Tea tela et Oa MR OR RPE IR RA 2

5 to 8 12 to 18 22 to 33 25 to 35

7 to 10 17 to 24 30 to 44

U.S. thread sizes N40 ce aap: ns Ane eehe: “SEES[RPO ig oh, We Rae 5 Oe Re eB BA Grad a, ee EL SN Nee 2155-3 (Ce a a Re PSEC: ee ree a) Nee PIO a 3) WR Re AIG au Ah os sae Mn Pe: NS ATED Le DITO CORI oo cln ee Cire eee nace PING ate hn, Od ei, ee he, ST eet te

6 to 9 12 to 18 14 to 20 22 to 32 27 to 38 40 to 55 40 to 60 55 to 80

9 to 12

Standard (SAE and USS) bolt dimensions/grade marks G

0-9

Grade marks (bolt strength) Length (in inches) Thread pitch (number of threads per inch) Nominal diameter (in inches)

I

Nm

9 to 12 19 to 28 38 to 54 68 to96

109 to 154

34 to 47

17 19 30 37 55 55 75

to to to to to to to

24 27 43 51 74 81 108

Metric bolt dimensions/grade marks

Property class (bolt strength) Length (in millimeters) Thread pitch (distance between threads in millimeters) ee) Diameter wi

0-10

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Dial indicator set

Micrometer set

Initially, the bolts or nuts should be assembled finger-tight only. Next, they should be tightened one full turn each, in a criss-cross or diagonal pattern. After each one has been tightened one full turn, return to the first one and tighten them all one-half turn, following the same pattern. Finally, tighten each of them one-quarter turn at a time until each fastener has been tightened to the proper torque. To loosen and remove the fasteners, the procedure would be reversed.

Component disassembly Component

disassembly

should

be

done with care and purpose to help ensure that the parts go back together properly. Always keep track of the sequence in which parts are removed. Make note of special characteristics or marks on parts that can be

installed more than one way, such as a grooved thrust washer on a shaft. It is a good idea to lay the disassembled parts out on a clean surface in the order that they were removed. It may also be helpful to make sketches or take instant photos of components before removal. When removing fasteners from a component, keep track of their locations. Sometimes threading a bolt back in a part, or putting the washers and nut back on a stud, can prevent mix-ups later. If nuts and bolts cannot be returned to their original locations, they should be kept in a compartmented box or a series of small boxes. A cupcake or muffin tin is ideal for this purpose, since each cavity can hold the bolts and nuts from a particular area

(i.e. oil pan bolts, valve cover bolts, engine mount bolts, etc.). A pan of this type is especially helpful when working on assemblies with very small parts, such as the carburetor, alternator, valve train or interior dash and trim

pieces. The cavities can be marked with paint or tape to identify the contents. Whenever wiring looms, harnesses or connectors are separated, it is a good idea to

identify the two halves with numbered pieces of masking tape so they can be easily reconnected.

Gasket sealing surfaces

Hose removal tips

Throughout any vehicle, gaskets are used to seal the mating surfaces between two parts and keep lubricants, fluids, vacuum or pressure contained in an assembly. Many times these gaskets are coated with a liquid or paste-type gasket sealing compound before assembly. Age, heat and

Warning: /f the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, do not disconnect any of the A/C hoses without first having the system depressurized by a dealer service department

pressure can sometimes cause the two parts

to stick together so tightly that they are very difficult to separate. Often, the assembly can be loosened by striking it with a soft-face hammer near the mating surfaces. A regular hammer can be used if a block of wood is placed between the hammer and the part. Do not hammer on cast parts or parts that could be easily damaged. With any particularly stubborn part, always recheck to make sure that every fastener has been removed. Avoid using a screwdriver or bar to pry apart an assembly, as they can easily mar the gasket sealing surfaces of the parts, which must remain smooth. If prying is absolutely necessary, use an old broom handle, but keep in mind that extra clean up will be necessary if the wood splinters. After the parts are separated, the old gasket must be carefully scraped off and the gasket surfaces cleaned. Stubborn gasket material can be soaked with rust penetrant or treated with a special chemical to soften it so it can be easily scraped off. A scraper can be fashioned from a piece of copper tubing by flattening and sharpening one end. Copper is recommended because it is usually softer than the surfaces to be scraped, which

reduces

the chance

of gouging the part.

Some gaskets can be removed with a wire

brush, but regardless of the method used, the mating surfaces must be left clean and smooth. If for some reason the gasket sur-

face is gouged, then a gasket sealer thick enough to fill scratches will have to be used during reassembly of the components. For most applications, a non-drying (or semi-drying) gasket sealer should be used.

or a service station. Hose removal precautions closely parallel gasket removal precautions. Avoid scratching or gouging the surface that the hose mates against or the connection may leak. This is especially true for radiator hoses. Because of various chemical reactions, the rubber in hoses can bond itself to the metal spigot that the hose fits over. To remove a hose, first loosen the hose clamps that secure it to the spigot. Then, with slip-joint pliers, grab the hose at the clamp and rotate it around the spigot. Work it back and forth until it is completely free, then pull it off. Silicone or other lubricants will ease removal if they can be applied between the hose and the outside of the spigot. Apply the same lubricant to the inside of the hose and the outside of the spigot to simplify installation. As a last resort (and if the hose is to be replaced with a new one anyway), the rubber can be slit with a knife and the hose peeled

from the spigot. If this must be done, be careful that the metal connection is not damaged. lf a hose clamp is broken or damaged, do not reuse it. Wire-type clamps usually weaken with age, so it is a good idea to replace them with screw-type clamps whenever a hose is removed.

Tools A selection of good tools is a basic requirement for anyone who plans to maintain and repair his or her own vehicle. For the owner who has few tools, the initial investment might seem high, but when compared to the spiraling costs of professional auto maintenance and repair, it is a wise one. To help the owner decide which tools are needed to perform the tasks detailed in

this manual, the following tool lists are offered:

Maintenance

and

minor

repair,

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

0-11

Dial caliper

Timing light

Damper/steering wheel puller

Then, as confidence and experience grow,

Eventually the basic kit will be expanded into the repair and overhaul tool set. Over a period of time, the experienced do-it-yourselfer will assemble a tool set complete enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the special category when it is

the owner can tackle more difficult tasks, buying additional tools as they are needed.

quency of use.

Repair/overhaul and Special. The newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the maintenance and

minor repair tool kit, which is adequate for the simpler jobs performed on a vehicle.

Hydraulic lifter removal tool

General purpose puller

felt that the expense is justified by the fre-

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit The tools in this list should be considered the minimum required for performance of routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair work. We recommend the purchase of

combination wrenches (box-end and open-

0-12

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Valve spring compressor

Piston ring groove cleaning tool

Ridge reamer end combined in one wrench). While more expensive than open end wrenches, they offer the advantages of both types of wrench. Combination wrench set (1/4-inch to 71 inch or 6 mm to 19 mm) Adjustable wrench, 8 inch Spark plug wrench with rubber insert Spark plug gap adjusting tool Feeler gauge set Brake bleeder wrench Standard screwdriver (5/16-inch x

6 inch) Phillips screwdriver (No. 2 x 6 inch) Combination pliers - 6 inch Hacksaw and assortment of blades Tire pressure gauge Grease gun Oil can Fine emery cloth Wire brush Battery post and cable cleaning tool Oil filter wrench Funnel (medium size) Safety goggles Jackstands (2) Drain pan

Note: /f basic tune-ups are going to be part of routine maintenance, it will be necessary to purchase a good quality stroboscopic timing

light and combination tachometer/dwell meter. Although they are included in the list of special tools, it is mentioned here because they are absolutely necessary for tuning most vehicles properly.

Repair and overhaul tool set These tools are essential for anyone who plans to perform major repairs and are in addition to those in the maintenance and minor repair tool kit. Included is a comprehensive set of sockets which, though expensive, are invaluable because of their versatility, especially when various extensions and drives are available. We recommend the 1/2inch drive over the 3/8-inch drive. Although the larger drive is bulky and more expensive, it has the capacity of accepting a very wide range of large sockets. Ideally, however, the mechanic should have a 3/8-inch drive set and a 1/2-inch drive set.

Socket set(s) Reversible ratchet Extension - 10 inch Universal joint Torque wrench (same size drive as sockets) Ball peen hammer - 8 ounce Soft-face hammer (plastic/rubber)

Ring compressor

Standard screwdriver (1/4-inch x 6 inch) Standard screwdriver (stubby 5/16-inch) Phillips screwdriver (No. 3 x 8 inch) Phillips screwdriver (stubby - No. 2 Pliers - vise grip \ Pliers - lineman’s Pliers - needle nose Pliers - snap-ring (internal and external) Cold chisel - 1/2-inch

0-13

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Brake hold-down spring tool

Cylinder hone Scribe Scraper (made from flattened copper tubing) Centerpunch Pin punches (1/16, 1/8, 3/16-inch)

This list primarily contains only those tools and instruments widely available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer for distribution to dealer service departments. Occasionally,

Steel rule/straightedge - 12 inch Allen wrench set (1/8 to 3/8-inch or 4mm to 10 mm) A selection of files Wire brush (large) Jackstands (second set) Jack (scissor or hydraulic type) Note: Another too! which is often useful is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of 3/8-inch and a set of good quality drill bits.

tools are included in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the special tool is offered. However, sometimes there is no alternative to their use. Where this is the case, and the tool cannot be purchased or borrowed, the work should be turned over to the dealer service department or an automotive repair shop.

Special tools The tools in this list include those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturer’s instructions. Unless these tools will be used frequently, it is not very economical to purchase many of them. A consideration would be to split the cost and use between yourself and a friend or friends. In addition, most of these tools can be obtained from a tool rental shop on a temporary basis.

Clutch plate alignment tool

references

to the manufacturer’s

Valve spring compressor Piston ring groove cleaning tool Piston ring compressor Piston ring installation tool Cylinder compression gauge Cylinder ridge reamer Cylinder surfacing hone Cylinder bore gauge Micrometers and/or dial calipers Hydraulic lifter removal tool Balljoint separator Universal-type puller Impact screwdriver Dial indicator set

special

Stroboscopic timing light (inductive pick-up) Hand operated vacuum/pressure pump Tachometer/dwell meter Universal electrical multimeter Cable hoist Brake spring removal and installation tools Floor jack

Brake cylinder hone

Tap and die set

0-14 a

ea

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities IS

EPS

BL

SSPE

Buying tools For the do-it-yourselfer who is just starting to get involved in vehicle maintenance and repair, there are a number of options

available when purchasing tools. If maintenance and minor repair is the extent of the work to be done, the purchase of individual tools is satisfactory.

If, on the other hand,

extensive work is planned, it would be a good idea to purchase a modest tool set from one of the large retail chain stores. A set can usually be bought at a substantial savings over the individual tool prices, and they often come with a tool box. As additional tools are needed, add-on sets, individual tools and a larger tool box can be purchased to expand the tool selection. Building a tool set gradually allows the cost of the tools to be spread over a longer period of time and gives the mechanic the freedom to choose only those tools that will actually be used. Tool stores will often be the only source of some of the special tools that are needed, but regardless of where tools are bought, try to avoid cheap ones, especially when buying screwdrivers and sockets, because they won’t last very long. The expense involved in replacing cheap tools will eventually be greater than the initial cost of quality tools.

Care and maintenance of tools Good tools are expensive, so it makes sense to treat them with respect. Keep them clean and in usable condition and store them properly when not in use. Always wipe off any dirt, grease or metal chips before putting them away. Never leave tools lying around in the work area. Upon completion of a job, always check closely under the hood for tools that may have been left there so they won’t get lost during a test drive. Some tools, such as screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches and sockets, can be hung ona panel mounted on the garage or workshop wall, while others should be kept in a tool box

or tray. Measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc. must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged by weather or impact from other tools. When tools are used with care and

SS

A

ESA

SS

SS

SS

stored properly, they will last a very long time. Even with the best of care, though, tools will wear out if used frequently. When a tool is damaged or worn out, replace it. Subsequent jobs will be safer and more enjoyable if you do.

How to repair damaged threads Sometimes, the internal threads of a nut

or bolt hole can become stripped, usually from overtightening. Stripping threads is an all-too-common occurrence, especially when working with aluminum parts, because aluminum is so soft that it easily strips out. Usually, external or internal threads are only partially stripped. After they've been cleaned up with a tap or die, they’ll still work. Sometimes, however, threads are badly damaged. When this happens, you’ve got three choices: 1) Drill and tap the hole to the next suitable oversize and install a larger diameter bolt, screw or stud.

2) Drill and tap the hole to accept a threaded plug, then drill and tap the plug to the original screw size. You can also buy a plug already threaded to the original size. Then you simply drill a hole to the specified size, then run the threaded plug into the hole with a bolt and jam nut. Once the plug is fully seated, remove the jam nut and bolt. 3) The third method uses a patented thread repair kit like Heli-Coil or Slimsert. These easy-to-use kits are designed to repair damaged threads in straightthrough holes and blind holes. Both are available as kits which can handle a variety of sizes and thread patterns. Drill the hole, then tap it with the special included tap. Install the Heli-Coil and the hole is back to its original diameter and thread pitch. Regardless of which method you use, be sure to proceed calmly and carefully. A little impatience or carelessness during one of these relatively simple procedures can ruin

your whole day’s work and cost you a bundle if you wreck an expensive part.

SS

SE

Working facilities Not to be overlooked when discussing tools is the workshop. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some sort of suitable work area is essential. It is understood, and appreciated, that many home mechanics do not have a good workshop or garage available, and end up removing an engine or doing major repairs outside. It is recommended, however, that the overhaul or repair be completed

under

the cover of a roof. A clean, flat workbench or table of comfortable working height is an absolute necessity. The workbench should be equipped with

a vise that has a jaw opening of at least four inches. As mentioned previously, some clean, dry storage space is also required for tools,

as well as the lubricants, fluids, cleaning solvents, etc. which soon become necessary. Sometimes waste oil and fluids, drained from the engine or cooling system during normal maintenance or repairs, present a disposal problem. To avoid pouring them on the ground or into a sewage system, pour the used fluids into large containers, seal them with caps and take them to an authorized disposal site or recycling center. Plastic jugs, such as old antifreeze containers, are ideal for this purpose. Always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean rags available. Old towels are excellent for mopping up spills. Many mechanics use rolls of paper towels for most work because they are readily available and disposable.*To help keep the area under the vehicle clean, a large cardboard box can be cut open and flattened to protect the garage or shop floor. Whenever working over a painted surface, such as when leaning over a fender to service something under the hood, always cover it with an old blanket or bedspread to protect the finish. Vinyl covered pads, made especially for this purpose, are available at auto parts stores.

0-15

Anti-theft audio system 1 Some models were originally equipped with an audio system which includes an antitheft feature that will render the stereo inoperative. If the power source to the stereo is cut, the stereo will not work until a five-digit code (furnished with the vehicle when it was originally purchased from the dealer) is entered. Even if the power is immediately reconnected, the stereo will not function. If your vehicle is equipped with this anti-theft system, do not disconnect the battery, remove the radio fuse or remove the stereo

unless you have the code number for the stereo. Refer to your vehicle’s owner’s manual 2 for more complete information on this audio system and it’s anti-theft feature.

Unlocking the stereo after a power loss 3 Turn on the radio. Press the Scan and Auto M buttons at the same time for two sec-

onds. The word “cod e” should appear on the

display. 4 Press SCAN and AUTO M until four bars appear on the display. Using the station reset selector buttons, 5 enter the four-digit code. Note: You have three attempts to enter the correct code. 5 Once the code has been entered correctly, press SCAN and AUTO M. The word “cod e” should flash and after approximately five seconds the time will be displayed and the radio should play (you’ll have to tune in and enter your preset stations, however).

Booster battery (jump) starting Observe the following precautions when using a booster battery to start a vehicle: a) Before connecting the booster battery, make sure the ignition switch is in the Off position. b) Turn off the lights, heater and other electrical loads. c) Your eyes should be shielded. Safety goggles are a good idea. d) Make sure the booster battery is the same voltage as the dead one in the vehicle.

Dead battery

Booster battery

e) The two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other. f) Make sure the transmission is in Neutral (manual transaxle) or Park (automatic transaxle). g) If the booster battery is not a maintenance-free type, remove the

vent caps and lay a cloth over the vent holes. Connect the red jumper cable to the positive (+) terminals of each battery. Connect one end of the black cable to the negative (-) terminal of

the booster battery. The other end of this cable should be connected to a good ground on the engine block (see illustration). Make sure the cable will not come into contact with the fan, drivebelts or other moving parts of the engine.

Start the engine using the booster battery, then, with the engine running at idle speed, disconnect the jumper cables in the reverse order of connection.

=

00-3 HAYNES

Make the booster battery cable connections in the numerical order shown (note that the negative cable of the booster battery is NOT attached to the negative terminal of the dead battery) .

0-16

Jacking and towing Jacking Warning: The jack supplied with the vehicle should only be used for changing a tire or

placing jackstands under the frame. Never work under the vehicle or start the engine while this jack is being used as the only means of support. The vehicle should be on level ground. Place the shift lever in Park, if you have an automatic, or Reverse if you have a manual transaxle. Block the wheel diagonally opposite the wheel being changed. Set the parking brake. Remove the spare tire and jack from stowage. Remove the wheel cover and trim ring (if so equipped) with the tapered end of the lug nut wrench by inserting and twisting the handle and then prying against the back of the wheel cover. Caution: On some models the wheel cover can’t be removed by pry-

Install the lug nuts with the beveled edges facing in. Tighten them snugly. Don’t attempt to tighten them completely until the vehicle is lowered or it could slip off the jack. Turn the jack handle counterclockwise to lower the vehicle. Remove the jack and tighten the lug nuts in a criss-cross pattern. Install the cover (and trim ring, if used) and be sure it’s snapped into place all the way around. Stow the tire, jack and wrench. Unblock the wheels.

Towing Vehicles equipped with an automatic transaxle should not be towed with all four wheels on the ground. As a general rule, the vehicle should be towed with the front (drive) wheels off the ground (the best method is to have the vehicle placed on a flat-bed tow

truck). If they can’t be raised, place them ona dolly. : When towing a vehicle equipped with a

manual transaxle with all four wheels on the ground, be'sure to place the shift lever in neutral and release the parking brake. The ignition key must be in the ACC position, since the steering lock mechanism isn’t strong enough to hold the front wheels straight while towing. Equipment specifically designed for towing should be used. It should be attached to the main structural members of the vehicle, not the bumpers or brackets. Safety is a major consideration when towing and all applicable state and local laws must be obeyed. A safety chain system must be used at all times. Remember that power steering and power brakes will not work with the engine off.

ing; the wheel nuts must be removed first.

Loosen, but do not remove, the lug nuts (one-half turn is sufficient). Note: Factory alloy wheels have one locking nut that requires a special keyed adapter (supplied with the vehicle). Next, place the scissors-

type jack under the side of the vehicle and adjust the jack height until the slot in the jack head engages with the raised portion of the ridge on the vertical rocker panel flange nearest the wheel to be changed. There is a front and rear jacking point on each side of the vehicle.

Turn the jack handle clockwise until the tire clears the ground. Remove the lug nuts and pull the wheel off. Replace it with the

spare.

The jack fits over the rocker panel flange

(there are two jacking points on

each side of the vehicle, indicated by notches in the rocker panel flange)

0-17

Automotive chemicals and lubricants A number of automotive chemicals and lubricants are available for use during vehicle maintenance and repair. They include a wide variety of products ranging from cleaning solvents and degreasers to lubricants and protective sprays for rubber, plastic and vinyl.

in disc brake equipped vehicles. It usually contains molybdenum disulfide (moly), which is a dry-type lubricant. White grease is a heavy grease for metal-to-metal applications where water is a problem. White grease stays soft under both low and high temperatures (usually from -100

Cleaners

to +190-degrees F), and will not wash off or

Carburetor cleaner and choke cleaner is a strong solvent for gum, varnish and carbon. Most carburetor cleaners leave a drytype lubricant film which will not harden or gum up. Because of this film it is not recommended for use on electrical components. Brake system cleaner is used to remove grease and brake fluid from the brake system, where clean surfaces are absolutely necessary. It leaves no residue and often eliminates brake squeal caused by contami-

dilute in the presence of water. Assembly lube is a special extreme pressure lubricant, usually containing moly, used to lubricate high-load parts (such as main and rod bearings and cam lobes) for initial start-up of a new engine. The assembly lube lubricates the parts without being squeezed out or washed away until the engine oiling system begins to function. Silicone lubricants are used to protect rubber, plastic, vinyl and nylon parts. Graphite lubricants are used where oils cannot be used due to contamination problems, such as in locks. The dry graphite will lubricate metal parts while remaining uncontaminated by dirt, water, oil or acids. It is electrically conductive and will not foul electrical contacts in locks such as the ignition switch. Moly penetrants loosen and lubricate frozen, rusted and corroded fasteners and prevent future rusting or freezing. Heat-sink grease is a special electrically non-conductive grease that is used for mounting electronic ignition modules where it is essential that heat is transferred away from

nants.

Electrical cleaner removes oxidation, corrosion and carbon deposits from electrical contacts, restoring full current flow. It can also be used to clean spark plugs, carburetor jets, voltage regulators and other parts where an oil-free surface is desired. Demoisturants remove water and moisture from electrical components such as alternators, voltage regulators, electrical connectors and fuse blocks. They are non-conductive, non-corrosive and non-flammable. Degreasers are heavy-duty solvents used to remove grease from the outside of the engine and from chassis components. They can be sprayed or brushed on and, depending on the type, are rinsed off either with water or solvent.

Lubricants Motor oil is the |ubricant formulated for use in engines. It normally contains a wide variety of additives to prevent corrosion and reduce foaming and wear. Motor oil comes in various weights (viscosity ratings) from 0 to 50. The recommended weight of the oil depends on the season, temperature and the

demands on the engine. Light oil is used in cold climates and under light load conditions. Heavy oil is used in hot climates and where

high loads are encountered. Multi-viscosity oils are designed to have characteristics of both light and heavy oils and are available in a number of weights from 5W-20 to 20W-50. Gear oil is designed to be used in differentials, manual transmissions and other _ areas where high-temperature lubrication is required. Chassis and wheel bearing grease is a heavy grease used where increased loads and friction are encountered, such as for wheel bearings, balljoints, tie-rod ends and universal joints. bearing wheel High-temperature _ grease is designed to withstand the extreme temperatures encountered by wheel bearings

the module.

Sealants RTV sealant is one of the most widely used gasket compounds. Made from silicone,

RTV

is air curing,

it seals,

bonds,

irregularities, fills surface waterproofs, remains flexible, doesn’t shrink, is relatively easy to remove, and is used as a supplementary sealer with almost all low and medium temperature gaskets.

Anaerobic sealant is much like RTV in that it can be used either to seal gaskets or to form gaskets by itself. It remains flexible, is solvent resistant and fills surface imperfections. The difference between an anaerobic sealant and an RTV-type sealant is in the curing. RTV cures when exposed to air, while an anaerobic sealant cures only in the absence of air. This means that an anaerobic sealant cures only after the assembly of parts, sealing them together. Thread and pipe sealant is used for sealing hydraulic and pneumatic fittings and vacuum lines. It is usually made from a Teflon compound, and comes in a spray, a paint-on liquid and as a wrap-around tape.

Chemicals Anti-seize compound prevents seizing, galling, cold welding, rust and corrosion in

fasteners. High-temperature anti-seize, usually made with copper and graphite lubricants,

is used

for

exhaust

system

and

exhaust manifold bolts. Anaerobic locking compounds are used to keep fasteners from vibrating or working loose and cure only after installation, in the absence of air. Medium strength locking compound is used for small nuts, bolts and screws that may be removed later. Highstrength locking compound is for large nuts, bolts and studs which aren’t removed on a regular basis. Oil additives range from viscosity index improvers to chemical treatments that claim to reduce internal engine friction. It should be noted that most oil manufacturers caution against using additives with their oils. Gas additives perform several functions, depending on their chemical makeup. They usually contain solvents that help dissolve gum and varnish that build up on carburetor, fuel injection and intake parts. They also serve to break down carbon deposits that form on the inside surfaces of the combustion chambers. Some additives contain upper cylinder lubricants for valves and piston rings, and others contain chemicals to remove condensation from the gas tank.

Miscellaneous Brake fluid is specially formulated hydraulic fluid that can withstand the heat and pressure encountered in brake systems. Care must be taken so this fluid does not come in contact with painted surfaces or plastics. An opened container should always be resealed to prevent contamination by water or dirt. Weatherstrip adhesive is used to bond weatherstripping around doors, windows and trunk lids. It is sometimes used to attach trim pieces. Undercoating is a petroleum-based, tar-like substance that is designed to protect metal surfaces on the underside of the vehicle from corrosion. It also acts as a sounddeadening agent by insulating the bottom of the vehicle. Waxes and polishes are used to help protect painted and plated surfaces from the weather. Different types of paint may require the use of different types of wax and polish. Some polishes utilize a chemical or abrasive

cleaner to help remove the top layer of oxidized (dull) paint on older vehicles. In recent years many non-wax polishes that contain a wide variety of chemicals such as polymers and silicones have been introduced. These non-wax polishes are usually easier to apply and last longer than conventional waxes and polishes.

0-18

Conversion

factors

Length (distance) Inches (in) Feet (ft) Miles

X X X

25.4 0.305 1.609

=Millimeters (mm) = Meters (m) = Kilometers (km)

X X X

0.0394 3.281 0.621

=Inches (in) =Feet (ft) =Miles

X 16.387 = Cubic centimeters (cc; cm’) X 0.568 = Liters (I) X 1.137 =Liters (I) X 1.201 =US quarts (US qt) X 0.946 = Liters (I) X 4.546 = Liters (|) X 1.201 =US gallons (US gal) X 3.785 = Liters (I)

X x Xx X X x X X

0.061 1.76 0.88 0.833 1.057 0.22 0.833 0.264

= Cubic inches (cu in; in”) = Imperial pints (Imp pt) = Imperial quarts (Imp qt) =Imperial quarts (Imp qt) . =US quarts (US qt) = Imperial gallons (Imp gal) =Imperial gallons (Imp gal) =US gallons (US gal)

X X

28.35 0.454

= Grams (g) =Kilograms (kg)

X X

0.035 2.205

=Ounces (oz) = Pounds (Ib)

X X X

0.278 4.448 0.1

=Newtons (N) =Newtons (N) =Kilograms-force (kgf; kg)

Xx X x

3.6 0.225 9.81

= Ounces-force (ozf; oz) = Pounds-force (Ibf; |b) = Newtons (N)

X

0.070

=Kilograms-force per square

X

14.223

= Pounds-force per square inch

= Atmospheres

X

14.696

= Pounds-force

Volume (capacity) Cubic inches (cu in; in’) Imperial pints (Imp pt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) US quarts (US qt) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) US gallons (US gal)

ae,

Mass (weight) Ounces (oz) Pounds (Ib)

Force Ounces-force (ozf; oz) Pounds-force (Ibf; Ib) Newtons (N)

Pressure Pounds-force per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)

Pounds-force per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in?; |b/in?)

centimeter (kgf/cm?; kg/cm?)

X

0.068

Pounds-force per square inch

X

0.069

= Bars

Pounds-force per square inch

X

6.895

Kilopascals (kPa)

X

0.01

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?) (psi; Ibf/in?: Ib/in?)

(atm)

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)

per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?) Xx

14.5

= Kilopascals (kPa)

X

0.145

=Kilograms-force per square

Xx

98.1

1.152

= Kilograms-force centimeter

X

0.868

= Pounds-force inches

x

8.85

(Ibf in; Ib in) ° = Pounds-force inches = Pounds-force inches

centimeter (kgf/cm?; kg/cm?)

= Pounds-force

per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)

= Pounds-force per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in*®; Ib/in?)

= Kilopascals (kPa)

Torque (moment of force) Pounds-force inches

X

(Ibf in; Ib in) Pounds-force inches

X

0.113

(kgf cm; kg cm) =Newton meters (Nm)

Pounds-force inches

X

0.083

= Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft)

x

12

Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft)

X

0.138

= Kilograms-force meters

X

7.233

= Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft)

Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft) Newton meters (Nm)

|X 1.356 X 0.102

= Newton meters (Nm) = Kilograms-force meters (kgf m; kg m)

X X

0.738 9.804

= Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft) =Newton meters (Nm)

X X

3.377 25.4

= Kilopascals (kPa) = Millimeters mercury (mm Hg)

X X

0.2961 0.0394

= Inches mercury =Inches mercury

X

745.7

=Watts

X

0.0013

= Horsepower (hp)

X

1.609

= Kilometers per hour (km/hr; kph) X

0.621

= Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

(Ibf in; Ib in) (Ibf in; Ib in)

Vacuum Inches mercury (in. Hg) Inches mercury (in. Hg)

(kgf m; kg m)

(Ibf in; Ib in)

(Ibf in; Ib in)

Power Horsepower (hp)

(W)

Velocity (speed) Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

Fuel consumption* Miles per gallon, Imperial (mpg)

Miles per gallon, US (mpg)

X

0.354

X

0.425

= Kilometers per liter (km/I)

= Kilometers per liter (km/\)

X

2.825

X

2.352

=Miles per gallon, Imperial (mpg)

=Miles per gallon, US (mpg)

Temperature Degrees Fahrenheit

=

(°C x 1.8) + 32

Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; °C)

*/t is common practice to convert from miles per gallon (mpg) to liters/100 kilometers (i/100km), where mpg (Imperial) x i/100 km = 282 and mpg (US) x 1/100 km = 235

= (°F - 32) x 0.56

0-19 DECIMALS to MILLIMETERS

FRACTIONS to DECIMALS to MILLIMETERS Fraction

Decimal

| Decimal

| Decimal

mm

mm

Fraction

0.3969 0.7938

33/64 17/32

0.5156 0.5312

13.0969 13.4938

0.0254 0.0508

12.7000 12.9540

1/64 1/32

0.0156 0.0312

0.0762 0.1016 0.1270 0.1524 0.1778 0.2032 0.2286 0.2540

13.2080 13.4620 13.7160 13.9700 14.2240 14.4780 14.7320 14.9860

3/64

0.0469

1.1906

35/64

0.5469

13.8906

1/16

0.0625

1.5875

9/16

0.5625

14.2875

5/64 3/32 7/64

0.0781 0.0938 0.1094

1.9844 2.3812 MALT KeSs|

37/64 19/32 39/64

0.5781 0.5938 0.6094

14.6844 15.0812 15.4781

15.2400 15.4940 15.7480 16.0020

1/8

0.1250

3.1750

5/8

0.6250

15.8750

0.5080 0.7620 1.0160 1.2700 1.5240 1.7780

ets 2.5400 2.7940 3.0480 3.3020

‘

16.2560

fees

16.7640 17.0180 17.2720 17.5260

3.5560

3.8100 4.0640

17.7800

4.3180

18.0340

4.5720

18.2880

4.8260

18.5420

5.0800

18.7960 19.0500

5.3340

19.3040

5.5880 5.8420 6.0960 6.3500 6.6040 6.8580

19.5580 19.8120 20.0660

7.1120 7.3660 7.6200 7.8740 8.1280 8.3820 8.6360 8.8900 9.1440 9.3980 9.6520

ape 10.1600 10.4140 10.6680 10.9220 11.1760 11.4300 11.6840 11.9380 12.1920 12.4460

20.3200 20.5740 21.8280 21.0820 21.3360 21.5900 21.8440 22.0980 22.3520 22.6060

22.8600 23.1140 23.3680 23.6220 23.8760 24.1300 24.3840 24.6380 24.8920 25.1460 25.4000

0.1406 | 3.5719 3.9688 0.1562 0.1719 | 4.3656

41/64 21/32 43/64

0.6406 | 16.2719 0.6562 | 16.6688 0.6719 | 17.0656

0.1875

4.7625

11/16

0.6875

17.4625

0.2031 0.2188 0.2344

5.1594 5.5562 5.9531

45/64 23/32 47/64

0.7031 0.7188 0.7344

17.8594 18.2562 18.6531

0.2500

6.3500

3/4

0.7500

19.0500

0.2656 0.2812 0.2969

6.7469 7.1438 7.5406

49/64 25/32 51/64

0.7656 0.7812 0.7969

19.4469 19.8438 20.2406

0.3125

7.9315

13/16

0.8125

20.6375

0.3281 0.3438 0.3594

8.3344 8.7312 9.1281

53/64 27/32 55/64

0.8281 0.8438 0.8594

21.0344 21.4312 21.8281

0.3750

9.5250

7/8

0.8750

22.2250

0.3906 0.4062 0.4219

9.9219 10.3188 10.7156

57/64 29/32 59/64

0.8906 0.9062 0.9219

22.6219 23.0188 23.4156

0.4375

TIA LEZS

15/16

OD375

23.8125

29/64 15/32

0.4531 0.4688 0.4844

11.5094 11.9062 12.3031

61/64 31/32 63/64

0.9531 0.9688 0.9844

24.2094 24.6062 25.0031

1/2

0.5000

12.7000

1

1.0000

25.4000

9/64 5/32 11/64

13/64 7/32

17/64 9/32

21/64 11/32

25/64 13/32 27/64

0-20

Safety first! Regardless of how enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job at hand, take the time to ensure that your safety is not jeopardized. A moment’s lack of attention can result in an accident, as can failure to observe certain simple safety precautions. The possibility of an accident will always exist, and the following points should not be considered a comprehensive list of all dangers. Rather, they are intended to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safety conscious approach to all work you carry out on your vehicle.

Essential DOs and DON’Ts DON’T rely on a jack when working under the vehicle. Always use approved jackstands to support the weight of the vehicle and place them under the recommended lift or support points. DON’T attempt to loosen extremely tight fasteners (i.e. wheel lug nuts) while the vehicle is on a Jack - it may fall.

DON’T start the engine without first making sure that the transmission is in Neutral (or Park where applicable) and the parking brake is set. DON’T remove the radiator cap from a hot cooling system - let it cool or cover it with a cloth and release the pressure gradually. DON’T attempt to drain the engine oil until you are sure it has cooled to the point that it will not burn you.

DON’T touch any part of the engine or exhaust system until it has cooled sufficiently to avoid burns. DON’T siphon toxic liquids such as gasoline, antifreeze and brake fluid by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin. DON’T inhale brake lining dust - it is potentially hazardous (see Asbestos below). DON’T allow spilled oil or grease to remain on the floor - wipe it up before someone slips on it.

DON’T use loose fitting wrenches or other tools which may slip and cause injury. DON’T push on wrenches when loosening or tightening nuts or bolts. Always try to pull the wrench toward you. If the situation calls for pushing the wrench away, push with an open hand to avoid scraped knuckles if the wrench should slip.

DON’T attempt to lift a heavy component alone - get someone to help you. DON’T rush or take unsafe shortcuts to finish a job.

DON’T allow children or animals in or around the vehicle while you are working on it. DO wear eye protection when using power tools such as a drill, sander, bench grinder,

etc. and when working under a vehicle. DO keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving parts. DO make sure that any hoist used has a safe working load rating adequate for the job. DO get someone to check on you periodically when working alone on a vehicle. DO carry out work in a logical sequence and make sure that everything is correctly assembled and tightened. DO keep chemicals and fluids tightly capped and out of the reach of children and pets. DO remember that your vehicle’s safety affects that of yourself and others. If in doubt on any point, get professional advice.

Asbestos Certain friction, insulating, sealing, and other products - such as brake linings, brake bands, clutch linings, torque converters, gaskets, etc. - may contain asbestos. Extreme care must be taken to avoid inhalation of dust from such products, since it is hazardous to health. If in doubt, assume that they do contain asbestos.

Fire Remember at all times that gasoline is highly flammable. Never smoke or have any kind of open flame around when working on a vehicle. But the risk does not end there. A spark caused by an electrical short circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, or even by static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite gasoline vapors, which in a confined space are highly explosive. Do not, under any circumstances, use gasoline for cleaning parts. Use an approved safety solvent. Always disconnect the battery ground (-) cable at the battery before working on any part of the fuel system or electrical system. Never risk spilling fuel on a hot engine or exhaust component. It is strongly recommended that a fire extinguisher suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires be kept handy in the garage or workshop at all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with water.

Fumes Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconsciousness and even death if inhaled to any extent. Gasoline vapor falls into this category, as do the vapors from some cleaning solvents. Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated area. When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions on the container

carefully. Never use materials from unmarked containers. Never run the engine in an enclosed space, such as a garage. Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide, which is extremely poisonous. If you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air, or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the work area. If you are fortunate enough to have the use of an inspection pit, never drain or pour gasoline and never run the engine while the vehicle is over the pit. The fumes, being heavier than air, will concentrate

in the pit

with possibly lethal results.

The battery Never create a spark or allow a bare light bulb near a battery. They normally give off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive. Aiways disconnect the battery ground (-) cable at the battery before working on the fuel or electrical systems. If possible, loosen the filler caps or cover when charging the battery from an external source (this does not apply to sealed or maintenance-free batteries). Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery

may burst. *

Take care when adding water to a non maintenance-free battery and when carrying a battery. The electrolyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be allowed to contact clothing or skin. Always wear eye protection when cleaning the battery to prevent the caustic deposits from entering your eyes.

Household current When using an electric power tool, inspection light, etc., which operates on household current, always make sure that the tool is correctly connected to its plug and that, where necessary, it is properly grounded. Do not use such items in damp conditions and, again, do not create a spark or apply excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel vapor.

Secondary ignition system voltage A severe electric shock can result from touching certain parts of the ignition system (such as the spark plug wires) when the engine is running or being cranked, particularly if components are damp or the insulation is defective. In the case of an electronic ignition system, the secondary system voltage is much higher and could prove fatal.

0-21

Troubleshooting Contents Section

Symptom

Section

Symptom

Se Pas doncca be teviacdniees a ctr ene ee ore evan etemes Pees eneren ates OCKEC I GOAN. .css1ccscvonceotstesscedencchoeeree suehecertesbetaenvereetecbersctyearteasaes Noise most pronounced when tutming/i.2scie.cossasasdbsncteseacatbecesere ate Noisy in AI GOAMS 25s ..c.00:-tdevsvevarcescseuceceacvecesecanatetwricssenrupssnanctuaesesbs Noisy in neutral with Engine rUNNING ......-:cceeceeeeereeeneessssseeesesseesans

reece

Engine

: vbare See Chapter 6 CHECK ENGINE HIG)nlite eeccteterwaryectacscccneanencvscosceractss ae) ENGINE DACKFIPES.........0:..-.-sssoscsesarescereteencccnssscesrccorsncssusescsoesnecensrens 18 off switching after run) to (continues Engine diesels nes ae Ge enp emetic ahce oa Aa nt oaa Sane tng a al aac ES SE EUCUIRURSUE GIN FES GIES Etngine lacks POWER ............ssccssesrssscscassesreeceseecsssesntensenenseeeasenvenees

14

PANU

Noisy in one particular Gear ........c:cccceesceeesecesseeeeeeseecnnerssenesessnsennes Slips OUt Of GOAN ...........eesececscscsscrscssestecnesssceacsnreeeeonrsessransssnestenss Vibration ee: Ee Si ae eeetrccgies nuances a

Engine misses at idle [email protected]

9

Automatic transaxle

Engine misses throughout Criving Speed ranGe...........sccesssreeeeees

10

Engine will start in gears other than Park or Neutral ........ssssescssse

17

General shift mechanism problems .......csecsecessssseeeesecereesseseeteneeees

Engine lopes while idling or idles erratically .....cccscsscsssnsenene

Engine rotates but will not start .......-sssssssssssscecerereereeeseeeestee

Engine runs with oil pressure HIQHt OM ...sssserserssesseestenensecnssssenscaess Engine stalls SE

i

re

aE a ts

EERE T PCO OT RC Engine starts but stops immediately une Engine stumbles on acceleration PEE Stee iotes sascssetiettess=ceenensasccete Engine surges while holding accelerator SLAY, a scus-atereccesspeenstets

Engine will not rotate when attempting TO SEAT... esseersesseeseennernees

Oil puddle UNder ENGINE. .............esceseeeeeseereeeteesetsetentestestaseeeseeneesees Pinging or knocking engine sounds during acceleration

OM UPHs

. coe cece ccsccenceeseccscsecessuccrcssrsvecesseraconersacesccassonsesoveseeesens

Starter motor noisy or excessively rough in engagement..............

3 4

SNE

PSR

See eels Cee ee eee 20D) PFlisicd JeakaGe &yscnscsos:.nscu

1 Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter 5). 2 Excessive play in distributor shaft (Chapter 5). 3 Worn rotor, distributor cap or wires (Chapters 1 and 5). 4 Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1). system malfunction 5 Fuel injection (Chapter 4). 6 Faulty coil (Chapter 5). 7 Brakes binding (Chapter 9). 8 Automatic transaxle fluid level incorrect (Chapter 1). 9 Clutch slipping (Chapter 8). 10 Fuel filter clogged and/or impurities in the fuel system (Chapters 1 and 4). 11. Emission control system not functioning properly (Chapter 6). 12 Low or uneven cylinder compression pressures (Chapter 2). ' 13 Obstructed exhaust system (Chapter 4).

15

Engine backfires

1 Emission control system not functioning properly (Chapter 6). 2 Ignition timing incorrect (Chapter 5). 3 Faulty secondary ignition system (cracked spark plug insulator, faulty plug wires, distributor cap and/or rotor) (Chapters 1 and 5). 4 Fuel injection system malfunctioning

(Chapter 4). 5 Vacuum leak at fuel injector(s), intake manifold, air control valve or vacuum hoses (Chapters 2 and 4). 6 Valve clearances incorrectly set and/or valves sticking (Chapter 1).

16

1___ 2

Pinging or knocking engine sounds during acceleration or uphill Incorrect grade of fuel. Ignition timing incorrect (Chapter 5).

18

Engine diesels (continues to run) after switching off

1 2

Leaking fuel injector(s). Excessive engine operating temperature

(Section 24). Excessive carbon wo crowns (Chapter 2).

build-up

on piston

Cooling system Engine electrical system 19

Battery will not hold a charge

24

Overheating

1

Insufficient coolant

in system

(Chap-

ter 1). 1 Alternator drivebelt defective or not adjusted properly (Chapter 1). 2 Battery electrolyte level low (Chapter 1). 3. Battery terminals loose or corroded (Chapter 1). 4 Alternator not charging properly (Chapter 5). 5 Loose, broken or faulty wiring in the charging circuit (Chapter 5). 6 Short in vehicle wiring (Chapter 12). Internally defective battery (Chapters 1 7

2

and 5).

25

EERE ee

20

EEE

Alternator light fails to go out

eee a Faulty alternator or charging circuit 1 (Chapter 5). Alternator drivebelt defective or out of 2 adjustment (Chapter 1). Alternator voltage regulator inoperative 3. (Chapter 5).

ee 21 Alternator light fails to come on when key is turned on ee l i e es Warning light bulb defective (Chapter 5). 1 Fault in the printed circuit, dash wiring 2 or bulb holder (Chapter 12).

Radiator core blocked or grille restricted

(Chapter 3). 3 Thermostat faulty (Chapter 3). 4 Electric cooling fan circuit problem (Chapter 3). 5

Radiator

cap

not maintaining

pressure (Chapter 3). 6 Ignition timing incorrect

proper

(Chapters

1

and 5).

Overcooling

1 Faulty thermostat (Chapter 3). 2 Inaccurate temperature gauge sending unit (Chapter 3). 3. Electric cooling fan circuit problem (Chapter 3).

26

External coolant leakage

1 Deteriorated/damaged hoses; loose clamps (Chapters 1 and 3). 2 Water pump defective (Chapter 3). 3 Leakage from radiator core or coolant reservoir bottle (Chapter 3). 4 Engine drain or water jacket core plugs leaking (Chapter 2).

0-24 27

Internal coolant leakage

1 Leaking cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2). 2. Cracked cylinder bore or cylinder head (Chapter 2).

28

Coolant loss

1

Too much coolant in system (Chapter 1).

2 Coolant boiling away because of overheating (Chapter 3). 3 Internal or external leakage (Chapter 3). 4 Faulty radiator cap (Chapter 3).

29

Poor coolant circulation

Inoperative water pump (Chapter 3). Restriction in cooling system (Chapters 1 and 3). WO Thermostat sticking (Chapter 3).

Troubleshooting 33

Grabbing (chattering) as clutch is engaged

1 Oil on clutch plate lining, burned or glazed facings (Chapter 8). 2 Worn or loose engine or transaxle mounts (Chapters 2 and 7). 3 Worn splines on clutch plate hub (Chapter 8). 4 Warped pressure plate or flywheel (Chapter 8). 5 Burned or smeared resin on flywheel or pressure plate (Chapter 8).

2 Worn differential pinion shaft in case.* 3 Worn driveaxle bore in differential case (Chapter 7A).* 4 Worn or damaged driveaxle inboard CV joints (Chapter 8).

41

Clicking noise in turns

Worn or damaged (Chapter 8).

outboard

CV joint

42

Vibration

1 and 2 3. 4 5

Rough wheel bearing (Chapters 1 10). Damaged driveaxle (Chapter 8). Out-of-round tires (Chapter 1). Tire out of balance (Chapters 1 and 10). Worn CV joint (Chapter 8).

43

Noisy in neutral with engine running

.

34

Transaxle rattling (clicking)

1 Release lever loose (Chapter 8). 2 Low engine idle speed (Chapters and 5).

1

1

ine)

35

Noise in clutch area

1 Fork shaft improperly installed (Chapter 8). 2 Faulty bearing (Chapter 8).

Clutch

36

30

Faulty clutch master or release cylinder Chapter 8). Broken release bearing or fork (Chapfo) & ghyac

Pedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little resistance

No fluid in reservoir (Chapter 1) Faulty clutch master cylinder, release cylinder or hydraulic line (Chapter 8). ie) Broken release bearing or fork (Chapter 8). —

Clutch pedal stays on floor

ie)

31

Unable to select gears

Faulty transaxle (Chapter 7). Faulty clutch disc (Chapter 8). Release lever and bearing not assemled properly (Chapter 8). Faulty pressure plate (Chapter 8). — ahown Pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts loose —Chapter 8).

32

Clutch slips (engine speed increases with no increase in vehicle speed)

1 Clutch plate worn (Chapter 8). 2 Clutch plate is oil soaked by leaking rear main seal (Chapter 8). 3 Clutch plate not seated. It may take 30 or 40 normal starts for a new one to seat. 4 Warped pressure plate or flywheel

(Chapter 8). 5 6

Weak diaphragm spring (Chapter 8). Clutch plate overheated. Allow to cool.

37

High pedal effort

1 Piston binding in bore of clutch master or release cylinder (Chapter 8). ine) Pressure plate faulty (Chapter 8).

Manual transaxle 38

Knocking noise at low speeds

Noise most pronounced when turning Differential gear noise (Chapter 7A).*

40

Clunk on acceleration or deceleration

Loose engine (Chapters 2 and 7A).

44

or

transaxle

mounts

Noisy in one particular gear

Damaged or worn constant mesh gears Chapter 7A).* Damaged or worn synchronizers (Chapr 7A).* Bent reverse fork (Chapter 7A).* Pog Na = Damaged fourth speed gear or output gear (Chapter 7A).* oa Worn or damaged reverse idler gear or idler bushing (Chapter 7A).*

45

—— Worn driveaxle constant velocity (C Ss joints (Chapter 8). De) Worn driveaxle bore in differential case (Chapter 7A).*

39

1 Damaged input gear bearing (Chapter 7A).* 2 Damaged clutch release bearing (Chapter 8).

Noisy in all gears

1 Insufficient lubricant (Chapter 7A). 2 Damaged or worn bearings (Chapter 7A).* 3 Worn or damaged input gear shaft and/or output gear shaft (Chapter 7A).*

46

Slips out of gear

Worn or improperly adjusted linkage Chapter 7A). Transaxle loose on engine (Chapter 7A). Shift linkage does not work freely, binds Oe”r hapter 7A). Input gear bearing retainer broken or ose (Chapter 7A).* = agoDirt between clutch cover and engine block (Chapter 7A). ; 6 Worn shift fork (Chapter 7A).* =

0-25

Troubleshooting 47

Leaks lubricant

1

Driveaxle oil seals worn (Chapter 7).

2 Excessive amount of lubricant in transaxle (Chapters 1 and 7A). 3 Loose or broken input gear shaft bearing retainer (Chapter 7A).* 4 Input gear bearing retainer O-ring and/or lip seal damaged (Chapter 7A).*

48

a) Engine starting in gears other than Park or Neutral. b) Indicator on shifter pointing to a gear other than the one actually being used. c) Vehicle moves when in Park.

Refer to Chapter 7B for the shift linkage adjustment procedure.

ine)

52

Locked in gear

Lock pin or interlock ter 7A).*

pin missing

oa3

Automatic transaxle

49

Fluid leakage

1 Automatic transmission fluid is a deep red color. Fluid leaks should not be confused with engine oil, which can easily be blown onto the transaxle by air flow. 2 To pinpoint a leak, first remove all builtup dirt and grime from the transaxle housing with degreasing agents and/or steam cleaning. Then drive the vehicle at low speeds so air flow will not blow the leak far from its source. Raise the vehicle and determine

where the leak is coming from. Common areas of leakage are: a) Pan (Chapters 1 and 7) b) Dipstick tube (Chapters 1 and 7)

Transaxle fluid brown or has a burned smell Transaxle fluid overheated (Chapter 1).

switch

Transaxle slips, shifts roughly, is noisy or has no drive in forward or reverse gears

General shift mechanism problems

1. Chapter 7, Part B, deals with checking and adjusting the shift linkage on automatic transaxles. Common problems which may be attributed to poorly adjusted linkage are:

58

Vehicle pulls to one side during braking

Incorrect tire pressures (Chapter 1). met 2 Front end out of line (have the front end aligned). 3 Front, or rear, tires not matched to one another. 4 Restricted brake lines or hoses (Chap-

ter 9). 5 Malfunctioning drum brake or caliper assembly (Chapter 9). 6 Loose suspension parts (Chapter 10). 7 Loose calipers (Chapter 9). 8 Excessive wear of brake shoe or pad material or disc/drum on one side.

59

should be concerned with only fluid level and fluid and filter condition. Before taking the vehicle to a repair shop, check the level and condition of the fluid as described in Chap-

ter 1. Correct the fluid level as necessary or change the fluid and filter if needed. If the

Noise (high-pitched squeal when the brakes are applied) Disc brake pads worn out (Chapter 9).

60

problem persists, have a professional diagnose the cause.

Brake roughness or chatter

(pedal pulsates)

Driveaxles

De) [coe

Excessive lateral runout (Chapter 9). Uneven pad wear (Chapter 9). Defective disc (Chapter 9).

55

61

Excessive brake pedal effort

—

Clicking noise in turns

required to stop vehicle Worn or damaged (Chapter 8).

56

outboard

CV joint 1

Shudder or vibration during acceleration

1 Excessive toe-in (Chapter 10). 2 Incorrect spring heights (Chapter 10). 3. Worn or damaged inboard or outboard CV joints (Chapter 8). 4 Sticking inboard CV joint assembly

(Chapter 8). i

51

malfunctioning

There are many probable causes for the above problems, but the home mechanic

c) Transaxle oil lines (Chapter 7) d) Speed sensor (Chapter 7)

50

Engine will start in gears other than Park or Neutral

Neutral start (Chapter 7B).

54

Note: Due to the complexity of the automatic transaxle, it is difficult for the home mechanic to properly diagnose and service this component. For problems other than the following, the vehicle should be taken to a dealer or transmission shop.

a) The tires are in good condition and properly inflated (Chapter 1). b) The front end alignment is correct (Chapter 10). c) The vehicle is not loaded with weight in an unequal manner.

Kick-down solenoid faulty (Chapter 7B).

(Chap-

* Although the corrective action necessary to remedy the symptoms described is beyond the scope of the home mechanic, the above information should be helpful in isolating the cause of the condition so that the owner can communicate clearly with a professional mechanic.

Transaxle will not downshift with accelerator pedal pressed to the floor

Brakes Note: Before assuming that a brake problem exists, make sure that:

57

EEEEEEEEE EES

Vibration at highway speeds

Out of balance front wheels and/or tires 1 (Chapters 1 and 10). Out of round front tires (Chapters 1 2 and 10). Worn CV joint(s) (Chapter 8). 3

Malfunctioning

power

brake

booster

(Chapter 9). Partial system failure (Chapter 9). Excessively worn pads or shoes (ChapPiston in caliper or wheel cylinder stuck or sluggish (Chapter 9). 5 Brake pads or shoes contaminated with cil or grease (Chapter 9). 6 New pads or shoes installed and not yet seated. It will take a while for the new material to seat against the disc or drum.

62

Excessive brake pedal travel

1

Partial brake system failure (Chapter 9).

2 Insufficient fluid in master cylinder (Chapters 1 and 9). 3 Ajr trapped in system (Chapters 1 and 9).

0-26 63

Troubleshooting 68

Dragging brakes

1 Incorrect adjustment of brake light switch (Chapter 9). 2 Master cylinder pistons not returning correctly (Chapter 9). 3 Restricted brakes lines or hoses (Chapters 1 and 9). 4 Incorrect parking brake adjustment (Chapter 9).

64

Grabbing or uneven braking action

1 Brake pads or shoes worn out (Chapter 9). 2 Malfunction of proportioning valve (Chapter 9). 3 Binding brake pedal mechanism (Chapter 9).

65

EAI

AS

a

a

Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed

1 ‘Airin hydraulic lines (Chapter 9). 2 Master cylinder mounting bolts loose (Chapter 9). 3 Master cylinder defective (Chapter 9).

Brake pedal travels to the floor with little resistance

1 Little or no fluid reservoir caused by (Chapter 9). 2 Loose, damaged lines (Chapter 9). 3 Defective master

67

in the master cylinder a leak in the system

A

PEE

SS

SOS

EF

Ss

Vehicle pulls to one side

ESSE

ED AEE

AEE,

Wander or poor steering stability

Wheel alignment (Chapter 10). Sagging or broken springs (Chapter 10). Tire out of balance (Chapter 10). Worn strut damper (Chapter 10). Overloaded vehicle. — Ooahwnhd Tires not rotated regularly.

1 Mismatched or uneven tires (Chapter 10). 2 Lack of lubrication at balljoints and tierod ends (Chapters 1 and 10). 3 Worn strut assemblies (Chapter 10). 4 Loose stabilizer bar (Chapter 10). 5 Broken or sagging springs (Chapter 10). 6 Wheels out of alignment (Chapter 10).

70

Wheel makes a thumping noise

76

hp —

Blister or bump on tire (Chapter 10). Worn strut damper (Chapter 10).

71

Shimmy, shake or vibration

a ve}

Broken or sagging springs (Chapter 10). Leaking wheel cylinder or caliper (Chapr 10). RQwOnNWarped discs or drums (Chapter 10).

1 Tire or wheel out-of-balance or out-ofround (Chapter 10).

77

__Loose or worn front hub or wheel bear-

ings (Chapters 1, 8 and 10). 3 Worn tie-rod ends (Chapter 10). 4 Worn lower balljoints (Chapters and 10). Excessive wheel runout (Chapter 10). on Blister or bump on tire (Chapter 10).

Erratic steering when braking Front hub bearings worn (Chapter 10).

1

72

Excessive pitching and/or rolling around corners or during braking

Loose stabilizer bar (Chapter 10). Worn strut assemblies or mountings Chapter 10). Broken or sagging springs (Chapter 10). — ODN Overloaded vehicle.

Hard steering 78

cylinder (Chapter 9).

Parking brake does not hold

1 Lack of lubrication at balljoints and tierod ends (Chapters 1 and 10). 2 Front wheel alignment (Chapter 10). 3 Low tire pressure(s) (Chapters 1 and 10).

improperly

73

Suspension and steering systems Note: Before attempting to diagnose the suspension and steering systems, perform the following preliminary checks: a) Tires for wrong pressure and uneven

wear. Steering universal joints from the column to the steering gear for loose con-

Poor returnability of steering to center

ing gear assembly for loose or damaged

Overloaded vehicle. Worn strut assemblies (Chapter 10). — On Incorrect, broken or sagging springs —Chapter 10).

79

Cupped tires

Front wheel or rear wheel alignment Chapter 10). Worn strut assemblies (Chapter 10). Wheel bearings worn (Chapter 10). Excessive tire or wheel runout (Chapr 10). aAgronsaWorn balljoints (Chapter 10).

74

Abnormal noise at the front end

80

1

Lack of lubrication at balljoints and tie-

parts.

or out-of-balance tires, bent rims and loose and/or rough wheel bearings.

Suspension bottoms

1 Lack of lubrication at balljoints and tierod ends (Chapters 1 and 10). Binding in balljoints (Chapter 10). Binding in steering column (Chapter 10). WN Lack of lubricant in steering gear assembly (Chapter 10). 5 Front wheel alignment (Chapter 10).

nectors or wear. c) Front and rear suspension and the steer-

d) Out-of-round

SE

ter 10). 3. Worn control arm bushings or tie-rod ends (Chapter 10). 4 Loose stabilizer bar (Chapter 10). 5 _ Loose wheel nuts (Chapters 1 and 10). 6 Loose suspension bolts (Chapter 10)

75 Abnormal or excessive tire wear

I

or disconnected brake

Parking brake linkage adjusted (Chapters 1 and 9).

b)

A

1 Mismatched or uneven tires (Chapter 10). 2 Broken or sagging springs (Chapter 10). 3. Wheel alignment (Chapter 10). 4 Front brake dragging (Chapter 9).

2

66

A

rod ends (Chapters 1 and 10). 2 Damaged shock absorber mount (Chap-

po —

Excessive tire wear on outside edge Inflation pressures incorrect (Chapter 1): Excessive speed in turns.

0-27

Troubleshooting ASE

SE RE

A AST EES

AT

SEN AS RE RSET

3 _ Front end alignment incorrect (excessive toe-in). Have professionally aligned. 4 Suspension arm bent or twisted (Chapter 10).

82

EI

ABSA

SESS

EP

Rt

TS A ES SSS LIE

Tire tread worn in one place

1

Tires out of balance. Damaged or buckled wheel. Inspect and replace if necessary. 3 Defective tire (Chapter 1).

2 81

Excessive tire wear on inside

edge 1

Inflation pressures incorrect (Chapter 1).

(23

Front end alignment incorrect (toe-out).

Have professionally aligned. 3 Loose or damaged steering or suspension components (Chapter 10).

Excessive play or looseness in steering system Front hub bearing(s) worn (Chapter 10).

EE

RE

ee AE

A

I

RE

EE AE

ESSE

EES

2 Tie-rod end loose (Chapter 10). 3 Steering gear loose or worn (Chapter 10). 4 Worn or loose steering intermediate shaft (Chapter 10).

84

Rattling or clicking noise in steering gear

1 2

Steering gear loose (Chapter 10). Steering gear defective.

0-28 a

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12-39

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24

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Engine control system - 1998 and later V6 models (1 of 3)

VEHICLE

cd ster

12-42

Chapter 12

vRIS SOLENOID VALVE

VRIS SOLENOID

1

VALVE

PURGE SOLENOID

IAC

2

VALVE

Chassis electrical system

EGR

PRC SOLENOID

VALVE

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ny

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VEHICLE

SPEEDOMETER SENSOR

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Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system a ee aS

12-64 ai

HOT AT ALL TIMES

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Cruise control system - 1993 and 1994 models —_—_—_—_—o Lenn

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Chapter 12

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- 1993 four-cylinder models (1 of 3) Heating and air conditioning system (including engine cooling fan)

Chapter 12

12-68

HOT

Chassis electrical system

IN RUN

MIX

ACTUATOR

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GRN/YEL GRN/BLK

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MODE

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COOLING

FAN

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1997 four-cylinder models (1 of 2) Heating and air conditioning system (including engine cooling fan) - 1994 through

Chapter 12

12-74

Chassis electrical system

HOT IN RUN HOT

OR

IN RUN

AT ALL

|

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MODE

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AIR VENT

Heating and air conditioning system (including engine cooling fan) - 1994 through 1997 four-cylinder models (2 of 2)

Chapter 12

|

SL

MAGNETIC cLuTcH

UE

t BLK

THERMAL PROTECTOR

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1997 V6 models (1 of 2) Heating and air conditioning system (including engine cooling fan) - 1994 through

Chapter 12

12-76 HOT IN

HOT

TT | |

ey

RUN

so enee wirer FUSE 13

OR

IN RUN

BLU

HOT

START

ALL

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TIMES

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Heating and air conditioning system (including engine cooling fan) - 1994 through 1997 V6 models (2 of 2)

Chapter 12

py VIO/RED

PRESSURE

SWITCH (HIGH)

p RED

U

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12-77

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