125 90 18MB
English Pages 292 Year 2008
Chevrolet S-10 &
GMC Sonoma
ayneg)
pick-m -ups
Chevrolet S-10 & GMC Sonoma pick-ups (1994 thru 2004) Chevrolet Blazer & GMC Jimmy (1995 thru 2004)
GMC
Envoy (1998 thru 2001) Oldsmobile Bravada & Isuzu Hombre (1996 thru 2001)
Haynes Repair Manual Based on a complete teardown and rebuild
${M$efiiijsfl{information
for todpyp+rrore
complex vehicles
Chevrolet S-10& Blazer
GMC
Sonoma, Jimmy & Envoy Oldsmobile Bravada ISUZU Hombre
Automotive Repair
Manual by Robert Maddox and John H Haynes Member
of the Guild of Motoring Writers
Models covered: 1994 through 2004 Chevrolet S-10
& GMC Sonoma pick-ups GMC Jimmy
1995 through 2004 Chevrolet Blazer and 1998 through 2001
GMC
Envoy
996 through 2001 Oldsmobiie Bravada 1996 through 2000 Isuzu Hombre 1
(24071
-
5N27)
A AinXJMCTIVE iHirrsit
ACCE5SO ASSOCIATION
Haynes Publishing Group Sparkford Nr Yeovil Somerset BA22 7JJ England
Haynes North America, Inc 861 Lawrence Drive Newbury Park California
91320
USA
ABODE FGHU KLMNO PQR o
About Its
this
manual must pass on to you to cover its labor and overhead costs. An added benefit is the sense of satisfaction and accomplishment that you feel after doing the job yourself.
purpose The purpose
of this
manual
is
to help
get the best value from your vehicle.
you can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done, even if you choose to have it done by a dealer service department or a repair shop; it provides information and procedures for routine maintenance and servicing; and it offers diagnostic and repair procedures to follow when trouble
It
that Section.
Procedures, once described are not normally repeated.
When
will be given as Chapter and Section number. Cross references given without use of the word "Chapter" apply to Sections and/or paragraphs in the same Chapter. For example, "see Section 8" means in the same
The manual is divided into Chapters. Each Chapter is divided into numbered Sections, which are headed in bold type between horizontal lines. Each Section consists of consecutively numbered paragraphs. At the beginning of each numbered Section you will be referred to any illustrations which apply to the procedures in that Section. The reference numbers used in illustra-
hope you use the manual to tackle the work yourself. For many simpler jobs, doing it yourself may be quicker than arranging an appointment to get the vehicle into a
Chapter.
References to the left or right side of the assume you are sitting in the driver's
vehicle
seat, facing forward.
Even though we have prepared this manual with extreme care, neither the publisher nor the author can accept responsibility for any errors in, or omissions from, the infor-
tion captions pinpoint the pertinent Section
shop and making the trips to leave it and pick it up. More importantly, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the expense the shop
and the Step within that Section. That illustration 3.2
means
is,
mation given.
the illustration refers to
Section 3 and Step (or paragraph) 2 within
NOTE provides information necessary to properly complete a procedure or information which
will
the procedure easier to understand.
CAUTION A Caution
provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the Caution is found. Not heeding a Caution can result in damage to the assembly being worked on.
WARNING A Warning
provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the Warning is found. Not heeding a Warning can result in personal injury.
Acknowledgements who contributed to this project include Jeff Killingsworth, Jay Storer, Mike Stubblefield and Larry Warren. Wiring diagrams originated exclusively for Haynes North America, Inc. by CAD Counsel.
Technical writers
©
Haynes North America, With permission from J.H. Haynes
Inc.
& Co.
1996,1999,2001,2005,2008
Ltd.
A book in the Haynes Automotive
Repair Manual Series
Printed in the U.S.A. reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.
All rights
ISBN-13: 978-1-56392-728-7
ISBN
10:
Library of
1-56392-728-4 Congress Control Number: 2008931844
While every attempt is made to ensure that the information in this manual is correct, no authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions
liability
can be accepted by the
from, the information given."
08-288
neces-
ence
We
make
the text,
it's
sary to refer to another Chapter, the refer-
Using the manual
occurs.
A Note
in
0-3
Contents Introductory pages About this manual Introduction
Vehicle identification
numbers
Buying parts Maintenance techniques, tools and working Jacking and towing Anti-theft audio system Booster battery Oump) starting Automotive chemicals and lubricants Conversion factors
0-14 0-1
0-16 0-17
Safety first! Troubleshooting
Chapter
facilities
0-2 0-4 0-5 0-6 0-6 0-12 0-13 0-13
1
Tune-up and routine maintenance
Chapter 2 Part
1-1
A
2.2L four-cylinder engine
2A-1
Chapter 2 Part B 4.3L V6 engine
Chapter 2
2B-1
C
Part
General engine overhaul procedures
2C-1
Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and
air
conditioning systems
3-1
Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems
4-1
Chapter 5 Engine
electrical
systems
5-1
Chapter 6 Emissions and engine control systems
Chapter 7 Part
A
Manual transmission
Chapter 7
Part
Part
7A-1
B
Automatic transmission
Chapter 7
6-1
7B-1
C
Transfer case
7C-1
Chapter 8 Clutch and driveline
8-1
Chapter 9 Brakes
9-1
Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems
10-1
Chapter 11 Body
11-1
Chapter 12 Chassis
electrical
system
12-1
Wiring diagrams
12-16
Index
IND-1
0-4
Haynes photographer, author and mechanic with 1995
GMC Jimmy
Introduction to the Chevrolet S-10
and
Blazer,
GMC Sonoma, Jimmy and
Envoy, Oldsmobile Bravada and Isuzu Hombre These models are available in pickup and 2-and 4-door sport utility body styles. Engines are either fuel-injected MPFI 2.2L four-cylinder or 4.3L V6. Later models are equipped with the On Board Diagnostic
Second-Generation (OBD-II) computerized engine management system that controls virtually every aspect of engine operation. In Canada, this system is called Enhanced Diagnostics. OBD-II is designed to keep the emissions system operating at the federally specified level for the II
life of the vehicle. OBDmonitors emissions system components for
signs of degradation and engine operation for
any malfunction that could affect emissions, turning on the Service Engine Soon light if any faults are detected. Chassis layout is conventional, with the engine mounted at the front and the power being transmitted through either a 5-speed manual or 4-speed automatic transmission and a driveshaft to the solid rear axle. On 4WD models, a transfer case transmits power to a front differential by way of a driveshaft and then to the front wheels through independent driveaxles.
These models feature independent front suspension with torsion bars (4WD) or coil springs (2WD) and shock absorber at the
and solid axle with leaf springs and shock absorbers at the rear. The brakes are disc on the front and drum on the rear wheels, with an Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) standard on most mod-
front
els.
The power-assisted recirculating balltype steering is mounted on the chassis frame rail to the left of the engine.
0-5
numbers
Vehicle identification Modifications are a continuing and unpublicized part of vehicle manufacturing.
Since spare parts manuals and lists are compiled on a numerical basis, the individual vehicle
numbers are essential to component required.
correctly
identify the
Vehicle Identification
Number
(VIN) numstamped on a plate attached to the left side of the dashboard and is visible through This very important identification
ber
is
the driver's side of the windshield (see illustration). The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certificate of Title
and Registration. It consuch as where and
tains valuable information
when
the vehicle
was manufactured,
model year and the body
the
The Vehicle
style.
Identification
Number (VIN)
is
vehicle, looking through the windshield
On
codes particularly important pieces of
information found
in
the engine code letter designa-
left,
the 8th digit and the model year code letter designation is the 10th digit.
tion
is
On
the models covered by engine codes are:
W
this
Refer to this label
when
On
Electronic Fuel Injection (SEFI)
lower
4.3L V6 with Throttle Body 2.2L four-cylinder engine with Multi-Port Injection (MPI)
the models covered by this manual the model year codes are:
On
is
left
side of the block, just above the
oil
pan rail and on the right rear side of the block on a casting adjacent to the cylinder head. On 1999 and later model engines built in the Tonawanda or Romulus plants, the 4.3L V6 engine number is at the top/right front of the engine.
R S T V
1994
Automatic transmission
1995
number
1996
W
1998
The automatic transmission ID number is stamped into the passenger's side of the case, just above the fluid pan, toward the rear.
1997
X
1999
Y
2000
1
2001
2
2002
3
2003
4
2004
rail.
Manual transmission number number can be found on a pad on Borg-Wamer T5 transmission and on the left side of the New Venture Gear NV3500 transmission. The
ID
the right side of the case on the
ordering parts.
2.2L four-cylinder engines this numfound on a pad at the rear of the block, just behind the oil dipstick opening. On 4.3L V6 engines the numbers are found on the
4.3L V6 with Sequential
.
case, near the rear pan
It lists the VIN number, wheelbase, paint number, options and other information specific to the vehicle it's attached
to.
later-model 4L60-E transmissions, is stamped into the rear of the
number
located at the rear edge of
the driver's side door.
ber
Injection (TBI)
4 or 5 ...
is
Engine identification numbers
Injection (CPI)
Z
This label
manual the
4.3L V6 with Central Port Fuel
X
the ID
Vehicle certification label
the VIN are the engine
code and the model year code. Counting from the
identification label is
located on the glove box (arrow)
dashboard, visible from outside the
VIN engine and model year Two
The service parts
at the front of the driver's side of the
Transfer case The
number
number on the Borg-Warner
ID
case can be found on a pad on the case while on the New Process transfer case it is on the left side.
transfer
right side of the
Rear axle number The
ID
number
is
stamped on
front side
of the right (passenger's side) axle tube.
Vehicle Emissions Control Information label This label
is
found
in
partment. See Chapter 6 for
on
commore information
the engine
this label.
Much important information is on the service parts identification label
Vehicle
Service parts identification
identification
label
number Body type and
located
in
the glove box
This label is paint num(see illustration). It lists the VIN, specific to ber, options and other information
need the vehicle. You may sometimes refer to this label illustration).
when you
to
order parts (see
style
Options Paint codes Paint type
(some models)
0-6
Buying parts Replacement parts are available from sources, which generally fall into one of
many
two categories - authorized dealer parts departments and independent retail auto parts stores. Our advice concerning these is as follows: Retail auto parts stores: Good auto parts stores will stock frequently needed components which wear out relatively fast,
parts
such as clutch components, exhaust systems, brake parts, tune-up parts, etc. These stores often supply new or reconditioned
parts on an exchange basis, which can save a considerable amount of money. Discount auto parts stores are often very good places
buy materials and parts needed for general vehicle maintenance such as oil, grease, filters, spark plugs, belts, touch-up paint, bulbs, etc. They also usually sell tools and general accessories, have convenient hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home. Authorized dealer parts department: This is the best source for parts which are
unique to the vehicle and not generally
avail-
able elsewhere (such as major engine parts,
transmission parts, trim pieces,
Warranty information:
to
If
etc.).
the vehicle
is
covered under warranty, be sure that any replacement parts purchased - regardless of the source - do not invalidate the warranty! To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, have engine and chassis numbers still
available and, if possible, take the old parts along for positive identification.
Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Maintenance techniques There are a number of techniques involved in maintenance and repair that will be referred to throughout this manual. Application of these techniques will enable the home mechanic to be more efficient, better organized and capable of performing the various tasks properly, which will ensure that the repair job is thorough and complete.
this task,
as well as other repair procedures,
such as the repair of threaded holes that have been stripped out. Flat washers and lockwashers, when removed from an assembly, should always
be replaced exactly as removed. Replace any with new ones. Never use a lockwasher on any soft metal surface (such as aluminum), thin sheet metal or plastic.
damaged washers
••
Fasteners Fasteners are nuts, bolts, studs and screws used to hold two or more parts together. There are a few things to keep in mind when working with fasteners. Almost all of them use a locking device of some type,
Grade
1
Grade 5
or 2
Grade 8
either a lockwasher, locknut, locking tab or
thread adhesive. All threaded fasteners should be clean and straight, with undamaged threads and undamaged corners on the hex head where the wrench fits. Develop the all damaged nuts and bolts ones. Special locknuts with nylon or fiber inserts can only be used once. If they are removed, they lose their locking ability
habit of replacing
with
new
and must be replaced with new ones. Rusted nuts and bolts should be treated with a penetrating fluid to ease removal and prevent breakage. Some mechanics use turpentine in a spout-type oil can, which works
Bolt strength
Grade Hex Nut Grade 5
quite well. After applying the rust penetrant,
work
a few minutes before trying to loosen the nut or bolt. Badly rusted fasteners may have to be chiseled or sawed off or removed with a special nut breaker, available let
it
Identification
©
Grade Hex Nut Property Class 9
a bolt or stud breaks
an assembly, it can be drilled and removed with a special tool commonly available for this purpose. Most automotive machine shops can perform
-
metric)
Identification
o Arabic 9
for
Hex Nut Grade 8
at tool stores. If
marking (standard/SAE/USS; bottom
off in
Standard hex nut strength markings
Property Class 10
o
Metric hex nut strength markings
© ©© Class
Class
Class
10.9
9.8
8.8
Metric stud strength markings I
oo
imvmal
Maintenance techniques, tools and working Fastener sizes For a number
of reasons, automobile manufacturers are making wider and wider use of metric fasteners. Therefore, it is important to be able to tell the difference between standard (sometimes called U.S. or SAE) and metric hardware, since they cannot be interchanged. All bolts, whether standard or metric, are sized according to diameter, thread pitch and length. For example, a standard 1/2-13x1 bolt is 1/2 inch in diameter, has 13 threads per inch and is 1 inch long. An M12 - 1.75 x 25 metric bolt is 1 2 mm in diameter, has a thread
mm (the distance between 25 mm long. The two bolts are nearly identical, and easily confused, but they
pitch of 1.75 threads) and
is
are not interchangeable. In addition to the differences
diameter, thread pitch and length, metric and standard bolts can also be distinguished by examining the bolt heads. To begin with, the distance across the flats on a standard bolt
head
is
measured
in
in
inches, while the
dimension on a metric bolt
is
sized
in
0-7
facilities
Metric thread sizes
Ft-ibs
Nm
M-6 M-8 M-10 M-12 M-14
6 to 9 14 to 21
9 to 12 19 to 28
28 to 40 50 to 71 80 to 140
38 to 54 68 to 96 109 to 154
5 to 8 12 to 18
7 to 10
Pipe thread sizes 1/8
1/4
3/8 1/2
U.S. thread sizes 1/4-20 5/16 5/16
-
18
-
24
3/8
-
16
3/8
-
24
7/16-14 7/16
-
20
1/2-13
22 to 33 25 to 35
17 to 24 30 to 44 34 to 47
6 to 9 12 to 18 14 to 20
9 to 12 17 to 24 19 to 27
22 27 40 40
30 37 55 55 75
32 38 to 55 to 60 to to
55to80
to
43
to 51
74
to
to 81
108
to
same
millime-
same is true for nuts). As a result, a standard wrench should not be used on a metric bolt and a metric wrench should not be used on a standard bolt. Also, most standard bolts have slashes radiating out from the center of the head to denote the grade or strength of the bolt, which is an indication of the amount of torque that can be applied to
ters (the
The greater the number of slashes, the greater the strength of the bolt. Grades through 5 are commonly used on automobiles. Metric bolts have a property class (grade) number, rather than a slash, molded it.
into their
heads
to indicate bolt strength. In
this case, the higher the
number, the stronger
Property class numbers 8.8, 9.8 and 10.9 are commonly used on automobiles.
the
bolt.
Strength markings can also be used to distinguish standard hex nuts from metric hex nuts. Many standard nuts have dots stamped into one side, while metric nuts are
marked with a number. The greater the number of dots, or the higher the number, the greater the strength of the nut. Metric studs are also marked on their ends according to property class (grade).
Larger studs are numbered (the same as metric bolts), while smaller studs carry a geometric code to denote grade. should be noted that many fasteners, Grades through 2, have no disis the tinguishing marks on them. When such it is case, the only way to determine whether thread standard or metric is to measure the of the pitch or compare it to a known fastener It
especially
same
size.
Standard fasteners are often referred to However, it as SAE, as opposed to metric. that SAE technically refers to
should be noted fastener only. a non-metric fine thread are Coarse thread non-metric fasteners referred to as
USS
|0O-2H«Ywis1
Grade marks
Since fasteners of the same different standard and metric) may have
(bolt strength)
Length (in inches) Thread pitch (number of threads per inch) Nominal diameter (in inches)
their original locations. Also,
when
replacing
a fastener with a new one, make sure that the new one has a strength rating equal to or greater than the original.
Tightening sequences and
procedures Most threaded fasteners should be tightened to a specific torque value (torque is the twisting force applied to a threaded component such as a nut or bolt). Overtightening
the fastener can weaken it and cause break, while undertightening can cause eventually
come
loose. Bolts,
P
Property class (bolt strength)
L
T
Length (in millimeters) Thread pitch (distance between
D
Diameter
threads
strength ratings, be sure to reinstall any bolts, studs or nuts removed from your vehicle in
sizes.
size (both
Metric bolt dimensions/grade marks
Standard (SAE and USS) bolt dimensions/grade marks
it
to
it
to
screws and
studs, depending on the material they are made of and their thread diameters, have
in millimeters)
specific torque values,
many
of
which are
noted in the Specifications at the beginning of each Chapter. Be sure to follow the torque
recommendations closely. For fasteners not assigned a specific torque, a general torque value chart is presented here as a guide. These torque values are for dry (unlubricated) fasteners threaded into steel or cast iron (not aluminum). As was previously mentioned, the size and grade of a fastener determine the amount of torque that can safely be applied to it. The figures listed here are approximate for Grade 2 and Grade 3 fasteners. Higher grades can tolerate higher torque values. Fasteners laid out in a pattern, such as cylinder
head
cover bolts,
ened
in
pan bolts, differential must be loosened or tight-
bolts, oil
etc.,
sequence
to avoid
warping the com-
Maintenance techniques, tools and working
0-8
Micrometer set This sequence
normally be If a specific pattern is not given, the following procedures can be used to prevent warping. Initially, the bolts or nuts should be assembled finger-tight only. Next, they should be tightened one full turn each, in a criss-cross or diagonal pattern. After each one has been tightened one full turn, return to the first one and tighten them all one-half portent.
shown
in
will
the appropriate Chapter.
turn, following the
same
pattern. Finally,
each of them one-quarter turn at a time until each fastener has been tightened to the proper torque. To loosen and remove the fasteners, the procedure would be reversed. tighten
Component disassembly Component disassembly should be done with care and purpose to help ensure that the parts go back together properly. Always keep track of the sequence in which parts are removed.
Make note
of special
Dial indicator set
two halves with numbered pieces masking tape so they can be easily recon-
identify the
of
nected.
Gasket sealing surfaces Throughout any vehicle, gaskets are used to seal the mating surfaces between two parts and keep lubricants, fluids, vacuum or pressure contained
an assembly. Many times these gaskets are coated with a liquid or paste-type gasket sealing compound before assembly. Age, heat and pressure can sometimes cause the two parts to stick together so tightly that they are very difficult to separate. Often, the assembly can be loosened by striking it with a soft-face hammer near the mating surfaces. A regular hammer can be used if a block of wood is placed between the hammer and the part. Do
hammer on cast parts or parts that could be easily damaged. With any particularly always recheck to make sure has been removed. Avoid using a screwdriver or bar to pry apart an assembly, as they can easily mar the gasket sealing surfaces of the parts, which must remain smooth. If prying is absolutely necessary, use an old broom handle, but keep in mind that extra clean up will be necstubborn
part,
nents before removal.
essary
comSome-
fasteners from a
ponent, keep track of their locations.
times threading a bolt back in a part, or putting the washers and nut back on a stud, can prevent mix-ups later. If nuts and bolts cannot be returned to their original locations, they should be kept in a compartmented box or a series of small boxes. A cupcake or muf-
purpose, since each cavity can hold the bolts and nuts from a particular area (i.e. oil pan bolts, valve cover bolts, engine mount bolts, etc.). A pan of this type is especially helpful when working on assemblies with very small parts, such as the
fin tin is ideal for this
carburetor, alternator, valve train or interior dash and trim pieces. The cavities can be
marked with
paint or tape to identify the con-
tents.
Whenever
wiring looms, harnesses or connectors are separated, it is a good idea to
in
not
that every fastener
When removing
if
the
wood
splinters.
After the parts are separated, the old
gasket must be carefully scraped off and the gasket surfaces cleaned. Stubborn gasket material can be soaked with rust penetrant or treated with a special chemical to soften it so it can be easily scraped off. A scraper can be fashioned from a piece of copper tubing by flattening and sharpening one end. Copper is
recommended because
it
is
usually softer
than the surfaces to be scraped, which reduces the chance of gouging the part. Some gaskets can be removed with a wire brush, but regardless of the method used, the mating surfaces must be left clean and
smooth. If for some reason the gasket surface is gouged, then a gasket sealer thick enough to fill scratches will have to be used during reassembly of the components. For most applications, a non-drying (or semi-drying)
Hose removal Warning:
tips
is equipped with air do not disconnect any of the A/C hoses without first having the system depressurized by a dealer service department If
the vehicle
conditioning,
marks on parts that can be installed more than one way, such as a grooved thrust washer on a shaft. It is a good idea to lay the disassembled parts out on a clean surface in the order that they were removed. It may also be helpful to make sketches or take instant photos of compocharacteristics or
facilities
gasket sealer should be used.
or a service station.
Hose removal precautions closely paralgasket removal precautions. Avoid scratching or gouging the surface that the hose mates against or the connection may lel
leak. This is especially true for radiator hoses.
Because
of various chemical reactions, the rubber in hoses can bond itself to the metal spigot that the hose fits over. To remove a hose, first loosen the hose clamps that secure it to the spigot. Then, with slip-joint pliers, grab the hose at the clamp and rotate it around the spigot. Work it back and forth until it is completely free, then pull it off. Silicone or other lubricants will ease removal if they can be applied between the hose and the outside of the spigot. Apply the same lubricant to the inside of the hose and the outside of the spigot to simplify installation. As a last resort (and if the hose is to be replaced with a new one anyway), the rubber can be slit with a knife and the hose peeled from the spigot. If this must be done, be careful that the metal connection is not damaged. If a hose clamp is broken or damaged, do not reuse it. Wire-type clamps usually weaken with age, so it is a good idea to replace them with screw-type clamps whenever a hose is removed.
Tools A selection
good
is a basic plans to maintain and repair his or vehicle. For the owner who has few tools, the initial invest-
of
tools
who her own
requirement for anyone
ment might seem
high, but
when compared
to the spiraling costs of professional auto
maintenance and
repair,
it
is
a wise one.
To help the owner decide which tools are needed to perform the tasks detailed in manual, the following tool lists are Maintenance and minor repair. Repair/overhaul and Special. The newcomer to practical mechanics this
offered:
Maintenance techniques, tools and working
Dial caliper
Compression gauge with spark plug
Hand-operated vacuum
pump
0-9
facilities
Timing
light
Damper/steering wheel puller
General purpose puller
Valve spring compressor
Valve spring compressor
Piston ring groove cleaning tool
Ring removal/installation tool
hole adapter
Hydraulic
lifter
removal tool
Ridge reamer
Maintenance techniques, tools and working
0-10
Ring compressor
Cylinder hone
Brake cylinder hone
Clutch plate alignment tool
should start
off
minor repair
tool
with the maintenance
and
which is adequate for the simpler jobs performed on a vehicle. Then, as confidence and experience grow, the owner can tackle more difficult tasks, buying additional tools as they are needed. Eventually the basic kit will be expanded into the repair and overhaul tool set. Over a period of time, the
experienced do-it-yourselfer
will
assemble a tool set complete enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the special category when it is felt that the expense is justified by the frequency of use.
Maintenance and minor repair tool kit
6
tools
should be considered the minimum required for performance of routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair work. We recommend the purchase of combination wrenches (box-end and openend combined in one wrench). While more expensive than open end wrenches, they offer the advantages of both types of wrench. in this list
Combination wrench set (1/4-inch to 1 inch or 6 to 19 mm) Adjustable wrench, 8 inch Spark plug wrench with rubber insert Spark plug gap adjusting tool
mm
Feeler gauge set
Brake bleeder wrench
Tap and
screwdriver (No.
Combination
pliers
-
2x6 inch)
6 inch
especially
when
can
various extensions and
We recommend
is
bulky and more expensive,
has the capacity of accepting a very wide range of large sockets. Ideally, however, the mechanic should have a 3/8-inch drive set and a 1/2-inch drive set.
Socket
Wire brush
Reversible ratchet
and cable cleaning
wrench Funnel (medium
tool
Oil filter
Drain If
set(s)
Extension -10 inch Universal joint
size)
Torque wrench (same size drive as
Safety goggles
Jackstands
the 1/2-
it
Fine emery cloth Battery post
die set
inch drive over the 3/8-inch drive. Although
the larger drive
Hacksaw and assortment of blades Tire pressure gauge Grease gun Oil
ity,
drives are available.
inch)
Phillips
Note:
The
Brake hold-down spring tool
Standard screwdriver (5/16-inch x
kit,
facilities
sockets) Ball peen
(2)
pan
Soft-face
be part of be necessary to
basic tune-ups are going to
routine maintenance,
it
will
purchase a good quality stroboscopic timing light and combination tachometer/dwell meter. Although they are included in the list of special tools, it is mentioned here because they are absolutely necessary for tuning most vehicles properly.
Repair and overhaul tool set These tools are essential
hammer - 8 ounce hammer (plastic/rubber)
Standard screwdriver (1/4-inch x 6 inch) Standard screwdriver (stubby 5/16-inch)
screwdriver (No.
Phillips
screwdriver (stubby
Pliers
-
vise grip
Pliers
-
lineman's
Pliers
-
Pliers
-
needle nose snap-ring (internal and external)
Cold chisel
-
Scribe
hensive set of sockets which, though expen-
Pin
sive, are invaluable
Steel rule/straightedge
because
of their versatil-
-
No. 2)
1/2-inch
anyone who plans to perform major repairs and are in addition to those in the maintenance and minor repair tool kit. Included is a comprefor
3x8 inch)
Phillips
Scraper (made from flattened copper tubing)
Centerpunch
punches
(1/16, 1/8, 3/16-inch)
-12
inch
Maintenance techniques, tools and working Allen
wrench set
(1/8 to 3/8-inch or
mm to
10 mm) A selection of files Wire brush (large)
4
A set can usua substantial savings over the individual tool prices, and they often come with a tool box. As additional tools are needed, add-on sets, individual tools and a of the large retail chain stores. ally
Jackstands (second set) Jack (scissor or hydraulic type)
be bought
larger tool
box can be purchased
to
Special tools
tools that
tools
in this list
are not used regularly, are expensive to buy,
accordance with their manufacturer's instructions. Unless these tools will be used frequently, it is not very economical to purchase many of them. in
A
consideration would be to split the cost and use between yourself and a friend or friends. In addition, most of these tools can be obtained from a tool rental shop on a temporary basis.
This
list
primarily contains only those
and instruments widely available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer for distribution to
tools
dealer service departments. Occasionally, references to the manufacturer's special tools are included in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the special tool is offered. However, sometimes there is no alternative to their use. Where this is the case, and the tool
cannot be purchased or borrowed, the work should be turned over to the dealer service department or an automotive repair shop. Valve spring compressor
Piston ring groove cleaning tool Piston ring compressor
Piston ring installation tool Cylinder compression gauge Cylinder ridge reamer
Cylinder surfacing hone Cylinder bore gauge
Micrometers and/or dial calipers Hydraulic lifter removal tool Balljoint separator
will
Hand operated vacuum/pressure pump Tachometer/dwell meter Universal electrical multimeter
Cable hoist Brake spring removal and
installation
tools
Floor jack
Good tools are expensive, so it makes sense to treat them with respect. Keep them clean and in usable condition and store them properly when not in use. Always wipe off any dirt, grease or metal chips before putting them away. Never leave tools lying around in the work area. Upon completion of a job, always check closely under the hood for tools that may have been left there so they won't get lost during a test drive. Some tools, such as screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches and sockets, can be hung on a panel mounted on the garage or workshop wall, while others should be kept in a tool box or tray. Measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc. must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged by weather or impact from other tools. When tools are used with care and stored properly, they will last a very long time. Even with the best of care, though, tools will wear out if used frequently. When a tool is damaged or worn out, replace it. Subsequent jobs will be safer and more enjoyable if you do.
Sometimes, the or bolt hole can
internal
become
threads of a nut
stripped, usually
from overtightening. Stripping threads is an all-too-common occurrence, especially when working with aluminum parts, because aluminum is so soft that it easily strips out. Usually, external or internal threads are only partially stripped. After they've been cleaned up with a tap or die, they'll still work. Sometimes, however, threads are badly dam-
When
Buying tools
aged.
For the do-it-yourselfer who is just startmaintenance ing to get involved in vehicle and repair, there are a number of options mainteavailable when purchasing tools. If and minor repair is the extent of the
choices:
nance work to be done, the purchase of individual other hand, tools is satisfactory. If, on the good extensive work is planned, it would be a purchase a modest tool set from one
and thread patterns. Drill the then tap it with the special included tap. Install the Heli-Coil and the hole is back to its original diameter and ety of sizes
hole,
some of the special tools that are needed, but regardless of where tools are bought, try to avoid cheap ones, especially when buying
Care and maintenance of tools
1)
Drill
this
and
oversize bolt,
2)
Drill
happens, you've got three
tap the hole to the next suitable
and
install
thread pitch.
Regardless of which method you use, be sure to proceed calmly and carefully. A little impatience or carelessness during one of these relatively simple procedures can ruin your whole day's work and cost you a bundle if you wreck an expensive part.
Working
and tap the hole to accept a drill and tap the plug
facilities
Not to be overlooked when discussing tools is the workshop. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some sort of suitable work area is essential. It is understood, and appreciated, that many home mechanics do not have a good workshop or garage available, and end up removing an engine or doing major repairs outside. It is recommended, however, that the overhaul or repair be completed under the cover of a roof.
A clean,
flat
workbench or
fortable working height
table of
com-
an absolute necessity. The workbench should be equipped with a vise that has a jaw opening of at least four is
inches.
As mentioned dry storage space
previously, is
some
clean,
also required for tools,
as well as the lubricants,
fluids,
cleaning sol-
soon become necessary. Sometimes waste oil and fluids, drained from the engine or cooling system during normal maintenance or repairs, present a disposal problem. To avoid pouring them on the ground or into a sewage system, pour the used fluids into large containers, seal them with caps and take them to an authorized vents, etc. which
disposal site or recycling center. Plastic jugs,
such as old antifreeze containers, are
ideal
for this purpose.
Always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean rags available. Old towels are excellent for mopping up spills. Many mechanics use rolls of paper towels for most work because they are readily available and disposable. To help keep the area under the vehicle clean, a large cardboard box can be cut open and flattened to protect the garage or shop floor.
a larger diameter
screw or stud.
or Slimsert.
are designed to
damaged threads in straightthrough holes and blind holes. Both are available as kits which can handle a vari-
be used. be the only source
screwdrivers and sockets, because they won't last very long. The expense involved in replacing cheap tools will eventually be greater than the initial cost of quality tools.
kits
repair
often
threads light (inductive
pick-up)
idea to
actually
like Heli-Coil
These easy-to-use
of
Dial indicator set
Stroboscope timing
will
Tool stores
How to repair damaged
Universal-type puller
Impact screwdriver
thread repair kit
over a longer period of time and gives the mechanic the freedom to choose only those
include those which
or which need to be used
remove the jam nut and bolt. The third method uses a patented
3)
expand
the tool selection. Building a tool set gradually allows the cost of the tools to be spread
The
the specified size, then run the threaded plug into the hole with a bolt and jam nut. Once the plug is fully seated,
at
Note: Another tool which is often useful is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of 3/8-inch and a set of good quality drill bits.
0-11
facilities
face,
Whenever working over a painted sursuch as when leaning over a fender to
service something under the hood, always it with an old blanket or bedspread to protect the finish. Vinyl covered pads, made
threaded plug, then
cover
to the original screw size. You can also buy a plug already threaded to the original size. Then you simply drill a hole to
especially for this purpose, are available at auto parts stores.
0-12
Jacking and towing of the Position the jack under the side
Jacking Warning: The jack supplied with the vehicle should only be used for raising the vehicle when changing a tire or placing jackstands under the frame. Never work under the vehicle or start the engine while the jack
is
being
used as the only means of support. The vehicle must be on a level surface with the wheels blocked and the transmission the front of in Park. Apply the parking brake if the vehicle must be raised. Make sure no one with the is in the vehicle as it's being raised jack.
the jack and lug nut wrench and spare tire from the compartment in the right rear corner of the rear passenger com-
Remove
partment. To replace the of the lug
cover
(if
wrench
tire,
use the tapered end wheel
to pry loose the
equipped). Note:
If
the vehicle
equipped with aluminum wheels,
it
is
may be
necessary to pry out the special lug nut covers. Also, aluminum wheels normally have anti-theft lug nuts (one per wheel) which
between the lug wrench and lug nut. The key is usually in the glove compartment. Loosen the lug nuts one-
require using a special "key"
half turn, but leave is
them
raised off the ground.
in
place
until
the
your vehivehicle at the jacking points (refer to instruccle's owner's manual or the jacking and rear tions with the jack). There's a front vehicle conjacking point on each side of the spring hanger sisting of hole in the chassis or the jack. for the pin in the lifting surface of
Operate the jack until the tire clears the tire ground. Remove the lug nuts and pull the of the hub and off. Clean the mating surfaces lug wheel, then install the spare. Replace the and nuts with the beveled edges facing in
them snugly. Don't attempt to tighten them completely until the vehicle is lowered
tighten
the jack. Lower the vehicle with the jack. Remove the jack and tighten the lug nuts in a crissnuts with cross pattern. If possible, tighten the torque wrench (see Chapter 1 for the torque
or
it
could
slip off
a
you don't have access to a torque wrench, have the nuts checked by a service possible. station or repair shop as soon as Caution: The compact spare included with some models is intended for temporary use it on only. Have the tire repaired and reinstall
values).
If
don't the vehicle at the earliest opportunity and exceed 50 mph with the spare tire on the car.
the wheel cover, then stow the jack and wrench and unblock the wheels. Install
tire tire,
Towing We recommend these vehicles (except from the all-wheel drive models) be towed off the ground. If rear, with the rear wheels these vehicles can it's absolutely necessary, front wheels be towed from the front with the that speeds don't off the ground, provided and the distance is less than
exceed 35 mph damaged if 50 miles; the transmission can be are limitations mileage/speed these drive must exceeded. Vehicles with all-wheel wheels on the not be towed with all four with all four ground. They must only be towed wheels
off
the ground.
for Equipment specifically designed be attached towing should be used. It must
members of the vehito the main structural brackets. cle, not the bumpers or
when Safety is a major consideration and local laws towing and all applicable state must be used must be obeyed. A safety chain at
all
times.
and The parking brake must be released Neutral. The the transmission must be in (ignition switch in steering must be unlocked that power the Off position). Remember with and power brakes won't work steering
the engine
off.
0-13
system
Anti-theft audio
same
time for five seconds with the ignition on and the radio power off. The display will show SEC, indicating the unit is in the secure
General information Some models
1
anti-theft audio
are equipped with the
system which includes an
mode
anti-theft feature that will render the stereo
inoperative
if
stolen.
If
4
the power source to
vehicle
is
equipped with
5
this anti-theft sys-
number
1
make
the
first
for
SEEK
until
the second and third digit of your
right or
left
1
arrow
12
be displayed as
will
BAND
knob. "000"
ignition switch to
ON, but leave
off.
button. "000" should dis-
Press the
SET
will
be
1
dis-
Press the
SCAN
number appear, then
Enter the second three code are displayed.
8 9
Press the lower
play
shows
"_ _,"
BAND
knob.
If
the dis-
you have successfully
anti-theft feature is
still
button to release
make
the
first
it.
14 Press the SEEK right or SEEK left arrows and make sure the second and third numbers agree with your code. 15 Repeat Steps 13 and 14 for the last three digits of your code. 16 Press the BAND knob. If SEC appears, the numbers you entered were correct and the stereo will work. If LOC appears, the numbers you entered were not correct and
digits of the
dis-
abled the anti-theft feature. If SEC is displayed, the code you entered was incorrect
and 4 buttons
Turn the
the stereo
code
play.
Press the
and the
restored to the stereo,
Steps.
SEEK
Press the
played.
Refer to your vehicle's owner's manual this audio
Press the stereo's
button to
6
7
Disabling the anti-theft feature 3
SCAN
is
LOC will appear on the display. Enter your ID code as follows; pause no more than 15 seconds between
"000."
Press the
When power
the stereo won't turn on and
will
entered.
more complete information on system and its anti-theft feature.
for
The display
button.
appear. The numbers
the stereo.
2
SET
number appear.
tem, do not disconnect the battery, remove the stereo or disconnect related components unless you have either turned off the feature or have the individual ID (code)
10
(anti-theft feature enabled).
Press the
show
the stereo is cut with the anti-theft feature activated, the stereo will be inoperative. Even if the power source is immediately re-connected, the stereo will not function. If your
Unlocking the stereo after a
power loss
enabled.
at the
the stereo
is still
inoperative
Booster battery (jump) starting Observe these precautions when using a booster battery
to start
a vehicle: a)
Before connecting the booster battery, make switch
is in
sure the ignition
d)
e)
one in the vehicle. The two vehicles MUST NOT
c)
f)
g)
battery
1
Booster battery
2
the Off position.
loads. Turn off the lights, heater and other electrical good idea. Your eyes should be shielded. Safety goggles are a dead Make sure the booster battery is the same voltage as the
b)
Dead
TOUCH each
other!
Neutral (manual) or Park (automatic), maintenance-free type, remove the a not is battery booster If the vent holes. vent caps and lay a cloth over the positive (+) terminals of each the red jumper cable to the
Make
sure the transaxle
is in
Connect
battery (see illustration).
cable to the negative (-) terConnect one end of the black jumper other end of this cable should be conminal of the booster battery. The vehicle to be started, such as a bolt or nected to a good ground on the .. bracket on the body. booster battery, then, with the engine Start the engine using the reverse the in cables the jumper running at idle speed, disconnect
order of connection.
Make the booster battery cable connections in the numerical order shown (note that the negative cable of the booster battery is NOT attached to the negative terminal of the dead battery)
0-14
Automotive chemicals and lubricants A number
of automotive chemicals
and
lubricants are available for use during vehicle
maintenance and
repair.
They include a wide
variety of products ranging
from cleaning
sol-
vents and degreasers to lubricants and protective sprays for rubber, plastic
and
vinyl.
Cleaners Carburetor cleaner and choke cleaner is a strong solvent for gum, varnish and carbon. Most carburetor cleaners leave a drytype lubricant film which will not harden or gum up. Because of this film it is not recommended for use on electrical components. Brake system cleaner is used to remove brake dust, grease and brake fluid from the brake system, where clean surfaces are absolutely necessary. It leaves no residue and often eliminates brake squeal caused by contaminants. Electrical cleaner removes oxidation, corrosion and carbon deposits from electrical full current flow. It can also be used to clean spark plugs, carburetor jets, voltage regulators and other parts where an
contacts, restoring
oil-free
surface
is
desired.
Demoisturants remove water and moisture from electrical components such as alternators, voltage regulators, electrical connectors and fuse blocks. They are non-conductive and non-corrosive. Degreasers are heavy-duty solvents used to remove grease from the outside of the engine and from chassis components. They can be sprayed or brushed on and, depending on the type, are rinsed off either with water or solvent.
Motor
oil is
engines.
the lubricant formulated for
normally contains a wide variety of additives to prevent corrosion and reduce foaming and wear. Motor oil comes in in
It
various weights (viscosity ratings) from
The recommended weight
of the
oil
to 50.
depends
on the season, temperature and the demands on the engine. Light oil is used in cold climates and under light load conditions. Heavy oil is used in hot climates and where high loads are encountered. Multi-viscosity oils are designed to have characteristics of both light and heavy oils and are available in a
number of weights from 5W-20 to 20W-50. Gear oil is designed to be used in differentials, manual transmissions and other areas where high-temperature lubrication is Chassis and wheel bearing grease is a heavy grease used where increased loads and friction are encountered, such as for wheel bearings, balljoints, tie-rod ends and universal joints.
High-temperature is
is
molybdenum
disulfide (moly),
which
a dry-type lubricant.
White grease
wheel
bearing
designed to withstand the extreme
galling, cold welding, rust
ally
made is
with
used
in
copper and graphite lubrifor exhaust system and
a heavy grease for is a problem. White grease stays soft under both low and high temperatures (usually from -100 to +190-degrees F), and will not wash off or dilute in the presence of water. Assembly lube is a special extreme
exhaust manifold
pressure lubricant, usually containing moly, used to lubricate high-load parts (such as main and rod bearings and cam lobes) for initial start-up of a new engine. The assembly lube lubricates the parts without being squeezed out or washed away until the engine oiling system begins to function. Silicone lubricants are used to protect rubber, plastic, vinyl and nylon parts. Graphite lubricants are used where oils cannot be used due to contamination problems, such as in locks. The dry graphite will lubricate metal parts while remaining uncontaminated by dirt, water, oil or acids. It is electrically conductive and will not foul electrical contacts in locks such as the ignition switch. Moly penetrants loosen and lubricate frozen, rusted and corroded fasteners and prevent future rusting or freezing.
strength
is
and corrosion
fasteners. High-temperature ant-seize, usu-
cants,
metal-to-metal applications where water
bolts.
Anaerobic locking compounds are used to keep fasteners from vibrating or working loose and cure only after in
the absence of
ing
compound
Medium
used
installation,
strength lock-
for small nuts, bolts
may be removed later. Highlocking compound is for large nuts,
and screws bolts
is
air.
that
and studs which
aren't
removed on a
regular basis. Oil additives range from viscosity index improvers to chemical treatments that claim to reduce internal engine friction. It should be noted that most oil manufacturers caution
against using additives with their
Gas additives perform
oils.
several func-
depending on their chemical makeup. They usually contain solvents that help dissolve gum and varnish that build up on carburetor, fuel injection and intake parts. They also serve to break down carbon deposits that form on the inside surfaces of the combustion chambers. Some additives contain upper cylinder lubricants for valves and piston rings, and others contain chemicals to remove condensation from the gas tank. tions,
Heat-sink grease
is a special electrinon-conductive grease that is used for mounting electronic ignition modules where it is essential that heat is transferred away from the module.
cally
Sealants RTV sealant
cone, RTV is air curing, it seals, bonds, waterproofs, fills surface irregularities, remains flexible, doesn't shrink, is relatively easy to remove, and is used as a supplementary sealer with almost all low and medium temperature gaskets. Anaerobic sealant is much like RTV in that it can be used either to seal gaskets or to form gaskets by itself. It remains flexible, is solvent resistant and fills surface imperfections. The difference between an anaerobic sealant and an RTV-type sealant is in the curing. RTV cures when exposed to air, while an anaerobic sealant cures only in the absence of air. This means that an anaerobic sealant cures only after the assembly of parts, sealing
them
Miscellaneous Brake
fluid
is
together. is
used
for
in
pieces.
Undercoating
is a petroleum-based, substance that is designed to protect metal surfaces on the underside of the vehicle from corrosion. It also acts as a sounddeadening agent by insulating the bottom of
tar-like
the vehicle.
Waxes and polishes
require
the use of different types of
polish.
Some
a chemical or abrasive cleaner to help remove the top layer of oxipolishes
utilize
on older vehicles
dized
(dull)
many non-wax
fittings
and as a wrap-around tape.
Chemicals Anti-seize
compound prevents
seizing,
may wax and
weather. Different types of paint
years
and pneumatic
are used to help
protect painted and plated surfaces from the
vacuum lines. It is usually made from a Teflon compound, and comes in a spray, a paint-on liquid
formulated
this fluid does not contact with painted surfaces or plastics. An opened container should always be resealed to prevent contamination by water or dirt. Weatherstrip adhesive is used to bond weatherstripping around doors, windows and trunk lids. It is sometimes used to attach trim
come
and
sealing hydraulic
specially
hydraulic fluid that can withstand the heat and pressure encountered in brake systems.
Care must be taken so
is
Thread and pipe sealant
required.
grease
contains
one of the most widely used gasket compounds. Made from sili-
Lubricants use
temperatures encountered by wheel bearings in disc brake equipped vehicles. It usually
paint
In
recent
polishes that contain a
wide variety of chemicals such as polymers and silicones have been introduced. These non-wax polishes are usually easier to apply and last longer than conventional waxes and polishes.
0-15
Conversion factors Length (distance) X 25.4 = Millimeters (mm) X 0.305 = Meters (m) X 1.609 = Kilometers (km)
Inches (in) Feet (ft) Miles
Volume
0.0394
X X X X X X X X
0.061 1.76 0.88
3.281 0.621
= = =
Inches (in) Feet (ft) Miles
(capacity) 3
X X X X X X X X
Cubic inches (cu in; in Imperial pints (Imp pt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) Imperial quarts (imp qt)
)
US
quarts (US qt) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) US gallons (US gal)
Mass
X X X
16.387 0.568 1.137 1.201
0.946 4.546 1.201
3.785
= Cubic centimeters (cc; cm 3 = Liters = Liters = US quarts (US qt) = Liters = Liters = US gallons (US gal) = Liters
)
(I) (I)
(I) (I)
(I)
0.833 1.057 0.22
0.833 0.264
= Cubic inches (cu in; in 3 = Imperial pints (Imp pt) = Imperial quarts (Imp qt) = Imperial quarts (Imp qt) = US quarts (US qt) = Imperial gallons (Imp gal) = Imperial gallons (Imp gal) )
= US
gallons (US gal)
(weight)
Ounces Pounds
X 28.35 = Grams (g) X 0.454 = Kilograms
(oz) (lb)
(kg)
X X
0.035 2.205
X X X
0.225
= Ounces = Pounds
(oz) (lb)
Force Ounces-force Pounds-force
Newtons
X 0.278 = Newtons (N) X 4.448 = Newtons (N) = Kilograms-force 0.1 X
(ozf; oz) (Ibf; lb)
(N)
(kgf; kg)
9.81
= Ounces-force = Pounds-force = Newtons (N)
4.223
=
3.6
(ozf; oz) (Ibf; lb)
Pressure Pounds-force per square inch 2
(psi; lbf/in
;
lb/In
(psi; lbf/in
;
lb/In
(psi; lbf/in
;
lb/in
(psi; lbf/in
;
lb/in
Kilograms-force per square 2 2 centimeter (kgf/cm kg/cm Atmospheres (atm)
X 0.068
=
X
1
Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in
)
X
1
4.696
=
2
X
0.069
=Bars
X
1
4.5
=
X
6.895
=
X
Kilopascals (kPa)
0.145
=
X
0.01
=
Kilograms-force per square 2 2 centimeter (kgf/cm kg/cm ;
Torque (moment of force) X
Pounds-force inches
1.152
=
X'
Pounds-force inches
0.113
98.1
=
0.868
=
cm; kg cm)
= Newton
2
)
;
lb/in
2
2
)
;
lb/in
2
2
)
;
lb/in
2 )
Kilopascals (kPa)
)
Kilograms-force centimeter (kgf
(Ibf in; lb In)
X
lb/in
Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in
)
Kilopascals (kPa)
;
Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in
)
2
2
2
Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in
)
2
Pounds-force per square inch 2
=
;
Pounds-force per square inch 2
0.070
)
Pounds-force per square inch 2
X
2
Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; lb in)
meters (Nm)
8.85
=
Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; lb in)
(Ibf in; lb in)
X 0.083 = Pounds-force
Pounds-force inches
feet (Ibf
12
lb ft)
ft;
=
Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; lb in)
(Ibf in; lb in)
Pounds-force feet
(Ibf ft; lb ft)
X 0.138 =
7.233
=
0.738 9.804
= Pounds-force feet (Ibf = Newton meters (Nm)
0.2961
0.0394
= Inches mercury = Inches mercury
X
0.0013
=
X
0.621
= Miles
X X
2.825 2.352
= =
Kilograms-force meters m; kg m)
Pounds-force feet
(Ibf ft; lb ft)
(kgf
Pounds-force feet (Ibf Newton meters (Nm)
ft; lb ft)
X 1.356 X 0.102
= Newton meters = Kilograms-force (kgf
(Nm) meters
ft;
lb ft)
m; kg m)
Vacuum Inches mercury Inches mercury
(in. (in.
Hg) Hg)
Power Horsepower
(hp)
Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)
Fuel consumption* Miles per gallon, Imperial (mpg) Miles per gallon. US (mpg)
Temperature Degrees Fahrenheit
= Kilopascals (kPa) = Millimeters mercury
X
745.7
= Watts
X
1.609
=
X 0.354 = X 0.425 = „„
(°C x 1.8) + 32
(mm
Hg)
(W)
Kilometers per hour (km/hr; kph)
ometers per Kilometers per
K.
iter
km/
l.ter
(km/D
Horsepower
(1/1
00km).
(hp)
per hour (miles/hr; mph)
Miles per gallon. Imperial (mpg) Miles per gallon, US (mpg)
Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; °C)
per gallon (mpg) to liters/ 100 kilometers practice to convert from miles km = 235 x l/WO km = 282 and mpg (US) x 1/100
common XnereZgtZeriel) •It Is
=
X 3.377 X 25.4
=
(°F
-
32) x 0.56
0-16
Safety
first!
Regardless of how enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job at hand, take the time to ensure that your safety is not
A moment's
jeopardized.
lack of attention
can result in an accident, as can failure to observe certain simple safety precautions. The possibility of an accident will always exist, and the following points should not be considered a comprehensive list of all dangers. Rather, they are intended to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safety conscious approach to all work you carry out on your vehicle.
Essential DON'T
DOs and DON'Ts
and when working under a vehicle. loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving parts. DO make sure that any hoist used has a safe working load rating adequate for the job. DO get someone to check on you periodically when working alone on a vehicle. DO carry out work in a logical sequence and make sure that everything is correctly assembled and tightened. DO keep chemicals and fluids tightly capped and out of the reach of children and pets.
carefully.
DO keep
containers.
DO remember on any
Asbestos
points.
other products
attempt to loosen extremely tight fasteners (i.e. wheel lug nuts) while the vehicle is
on a jack
- it
may
fall.
engine without first making sure that the transmission is in Neutral (or Park where applicable) and the parking brake start the
DON'T remove
the radiator cap from a hot cooling system - let it cool or cover it with a
and release the pressure
attempt to drain the engine oil until you are sure it has cooled to the point that it will not burn you.
DON'T touch any haust system avoid burns.
until
part of the engine or exit
has cooled
sufficiently to
DON'T
siphon toxic liquids such as gasoline, antifreeze and brake fluid by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin.
DON'T
inhale brake lining dust - it is potenhazardous (see Asbestos below).
DON'T on the on it.
allow spilled
floor
-
DON'T use tools which
wipe loose
may
it
oil
or grease to remain
up before someone
fitting
slips
wrenches or other
and cause injury. DON'T push on wrenches when loosening or tightening nuts or bolts. Always try to pull the wrench toward you. If the situation calls for pushing the wrench away, push with an open hand to avoid scraped knuckles if the wrench should
-
DON'T
slip
slip.
DON'T attempt get
to
someone
lift
a heavy component
to help you.
rush or take unsafe shortcuts to finish
a job.
DON'T
allow children or animals in or around the vehicle while you are working on it.
DO
in
carbon monoxide, which is extremely poisonous. If you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air, or at least have
tain
the rear of the vehicle outside the work area. If you are fortunate enough to have the use of an inspection pit, never drain or pour gasoline and never run the engine while the vehicle is over the pit. The fumes, being heavier than air, will concentrate in the pit
with possibly lethal results.
doubt
The battery Never create a spark or allow a bare bulb near a battery. They normally give a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which
light
Certain friction, insulating, sealing, and
such as brake
brake bands, clutch linings, torque converters, gaskets, etc. - may contain asbestos. Extreme care must be taken to avoid inhalation of dust from such products, since it is hazardous to health. If in doubt, assume that they do con-
linings,
tain asbestos.
off
highly explosive.
is
Always disconnect the battery ground (-) cable at the battery before working on the fuel or electrical systems. If possible, loosen the filler caps or cover when charging the battery from an external source (this does not apply to sealed
maintenance-free batteries). Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery
wear eye protection when using power drill, sander, bench grinder,
tools such as a
Fire
Remember
at
all
times that gasoline
is
Never smoke or have any kind of open flame around when working on a vehicle. But the risk does not end there. A spark caused by an electrical short circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, or even by static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite gasoline vapors, which in a confined space are highly explosive. Do not, under any circumstances, use gasoline for cleaning parts. Use an approved safety solvent. Always disconnect the battery ground (-) cable at the battery before working on any part of the fuel system or electrical system. Never risk spilling fuel on a hot engine or exhaust component. It is strongly recomhighly flammable.
gradually.
DON'T
alone
If
Never run the engine in an enclosed space, such as a garage. Exhaust fumes con-
or
is set.
tially
others.
rely
DON'T
cloth
and
point, get professional advice.
on a jack when working under the Always use approved jackstands to support the weight of the vehicle and place them under the recommended lift or support
DON'T
that your vehicle's safety
affects that of yourself
vehicle.
Never use materials from unmarked
etc.
mended
that a fire extinguisher suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires be kept handy in the garage or workshop at all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with
may
burst.
Take care when adding water to a non maintenance-free battery and when carrying a is
battery.
The
electrolyte,
even when
diluted,
very corrosive and should not be allowed
to contact clothing or skin.
Always wear eye protection when cleaning
the
battery
to
prevent the
caustic
deposits from entering your eyes.
Household current When
using an electric power tool,
etc., which operates on household current, always make sure that the tool is correctly connected to its plug and that, where necessary, it is properly grounded. Do not use such items in damp conditions and, again, do not create a spark
inspection
light,
or apply excessive heat
in
the vicinity of fuel
or fuel vapor.
water.
Secondary ignition system
Fumes
voltage A severe
Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconsciousness and even
death
if
inhaled to any extent. Gasoline vapor
category, as do the vapors from cleaning solvents. Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated area. When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions on the container
falls into this
some
electric
shock can
result
from
touching certain parts of the ignition system (such as the spark plug wires) when the engine is running or being cranked, particularly
if
components are damp
or the insulation
case of an electronic ignition system, the secondary system voltage is much higher and could prove fatal. is
defective. In the
0-17
Troubleshooting Contents
Symptom
Section
Engine Engine Engine Engine Engine Engine Engine Engine Engine Engine Engine Engine Engine
Noisy
13 15
backfires diesels (continues to run) after switching off
hard to start hard to start lacks
when when
4 5 12 8 9 10
cold
hot
power
lopes while idling or idles erratically
misses at idle speed misses throughout driving speed range rotates but
will
2
not start
starts but stops immediately
7
will not rotate when attempting to start Pinging or knocking engine sounds during acceleration
Engine electrical system Battery light fails to come on when Battery
will
key
is
not hold a charge
Ignition light fails to
6 3
18 16 17
turned on
go out
35 38 36
particular gear
leakage Slips out of high gear
Automatic transmission 42 39
Fluid leakage
General shift mechanism problems Transmission slips, shifts rough, is noisy or has no drive in forward or reverse gears Transmission will not downshift with accelerator pedal
pressed to the
41
40
floor
Transfer case 46 45 43 44
Lubricant leaks from the vent or output shaft seals
motor noisy or excessively rough in engagement motor operates without rotating engine
Starter
Section
one
1
14
or uphill
in
Oil
11
stalls
Starter
Symptom
Noisy or jumps out of four-wheel drive Transfer case
is difficult
Transfer case noisy
to shift into the desired range
in all
gears
Driveshaft Knock or clunk when the transmission load
(just after
Metallic grinding
Low range
transmission
is
under
initial
48 49 47 50
put into gear)
is
sound consistent with vehicle speed
Oil leak at front of driveshaft
Fuel system
Vibration
19
Excessive fuel consumption Fuel leakage and/or fuel odor
20
Noise leakage
Cooling system 25 23
External coolant leakage Internal coolant leakage
Overcooling
>
24 22 21
Overheating Poor coolant circulation
26
Clutch Clutch pedal stays on floor when disengaged Clutch slips (engine speed increases with no increase in vehicle speed) - shift lever Fails to release (pedal pressed to the floor does not move freely in and out of Reverse)
Grabbing (chattering) as clutch is engaged Squeal or rumble with clutch fully disengaged fully
32
Brakes Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed Brake pedal pulsates during brake application Excessive brake pedal travel Excessive effort required to stop vehicle Noise (high-pitched squeal with the brakes applied) Pedal travels to the floor with little resistance
Suspension and steering systems 27 29
Excessive pitching and/or during braking Excessive play in steering
31
Excessive Excessive Excessive
30
Manual transmission engaging gears gears
in all in
3
^ JJ
Neutral with engine running
reference This section provides an easy which guide to the more common problems may occur during the operation of your vehipossible causes are cle. These problems and sysgrouped under various components or etc., and System, Cooling Engine, i.e. tems; which the Chapter and/or Section
also refer to deals with the problem. Remember that successful troubleart pracshooting is not a mysterious black mechanics. It s ticed only by professional
rolling
around corners or
Lack of power assistance Shimmy, shake or vibration Tire tread worn in one place
63 65 67 69 68 64 66 62 70
Vehicle pulls to one side
61
tire
tire tire
wear (not specific to one area) wear on inside edge wear on outside edge
stiff
steering
simply the result of a bit of knowledge combined with an intelligent, systematic approach to the problem. Always work by a process of elimination, starting with the simplest solution and working through to the most complex -
and never overlook the obvious. Anyone can fill the gas tank or leave the lights on overnight, so don't assume that you are above such oversights. Finally, always get clear in your mind why a problem has occurred and take steps
forget to
57 60 56 58 55 59 54
Vehicle pulls to one side during braking
Excessively
Noisy Noisy
53 52
Vibration
28
engaged
(pedal released)
Difficulty in
51
Oil
Coolant loss
(pedal depressed) Squeal or rumble with clutch
Axles
to ensure that electrical
it
system
doesn't happen again.
If
the
because of a poor conother connections in the
fails
nection, check all system to make sure that they don't
fail as a particular fuse continues to blow, find out why - don't just go on replacing fuses. Remember, failure of a small component can often be indicative of potential failure or incorrect functioning of a more important component or system.
well.
If
Troubleshooting
0-18
properly (Chapter
Engine
4
Engine hard to start when cold
1
Battery discharged or low.
2
Fault
in
(Chapters 4 and 1
Engine will not rotate when attempting to start
Battery terminal connections loose or corroded. Check the cable terminals at the 1
discharged.
3
Faulty spark plug wires (Chapter
described in Section 1 2 Fault in the fuel or electrical systems (Chapters 4 and 5).
4
Vacuum
in
Air filter clogged (Chapter 1). 1 Fault in the fuel or electrical systems 2 (Chapters 4 and 5). 3 Fuel not reaching the injectors (see Chapter 4).
Park or Neutral or clutch pedal not
completely depressed. Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in 4 the starting circuit. Inspect all wiring and connectors at the battery, starter solenoid and
6
ignition switch.
broken.
5
mission ally
motor pinion jammed in flywheel manual transmission, place transgear and rock the vehicle to manu-
Starter
ring gear. in
If
turn the engine.
Remove
starter
Starter
rough
motor noisy or excessively engagement
in
worn or
Pinion or flywheel gear teeth
engine
Remove
(if
the cover at the rear of the
and
6
Starter solenoid faulty (Chapter
7
Starter
8
Ignition switch faulty (Chapter
motor
Engine rotates but
will
1
Fuel tank empty. Fault in the fuel injection
5).
1 2).
1
Loose or
not start
system (Chap-
discharged
(engine
rotates
Check the operation of electrical components as described in the previous slowly).
faulty electrical
connections
1).
Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit (see previous Section). Broken, loose or disconnected wires at 9 the distributor (V6) or ignition coil pack (four-
8
10
Distributor
1
and
5).
vacuum hoses connected the manifold are positioned properly and good condition.
1)
Ignition coil or coil
pack
faulty
(Chap-
ter 5).
12
8
all
to in
failure.
idling or idles
Vacuum
Check the mounting body and intake manifold for tightness. Make sure all vacuum hoses are connected and in good condition. Use a stethoscope or a length of fuel hose held against your ear to listen for vacuum 1
leakage.
leaks while the engine
sound
will
be heard.
is
running.
3 4
A soapy water
7 Starter
pinion
starter (Chapter 5)
2
sticking.
Remove
solution
Low
or uneven cylinder compression
Remove
pressures.
the spark plugs and test
the compression with a gauge (Chapter
Weak
2).
or faulty ignition system (Chap-
Vacuum leaks at the throttle body, vacuum hoses (see Section
Plugged PCV valve or hose (see Chap1 and 6). Air filter clogged (Chapter 1). Fuel
pump
not delivering sufficient fuel 4).
Camshaft lobes worn (Chapter
com-
2).
the
intake 8).
worn or
broken. Remove the flywheel/driveplate access cover and inspect.
Engine
1
Idle
stalls
speed
incorrect. Refer to the
VECI
label.
2
Fuel
clogged and/or water and
filter
impurities
in
the fuel system (Chapter
1).
3 Fault in the fuel system or sensors (Chapters 4 and 6). Faulty emissions system components 4 (Chapter 6). Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs 5 (Chapter 1). Also check the spark plug wires (Chapter 1). 6 Vacuum leak at the throttle body, intake manifold or vacuum hoses. Check as described in Section 8.
12
Engine lacks power
1
Fault
in
the fuel or electrical systems
(Chapters 4 and 2
5).
Faulty or incorrectly
gapped spark plugs
1).
3
Faulty coil (Chapter
4
Brakes binding (Chapter 1). Automatic transmission fluid
5
rect (Chapter
5).
level incor-
1).
6
Clutch slipping (Chapter
7
Fuel
filter
8).
clogged and/or impurities
in
the fuel system (Chapter 1). Emissions control system not function8 ing properly (Chapter 6).
9
Use
of
substandard
fuel.
Fill
the tank
with the proper octane fuel.
and inspect.
Starter pinion or flywheel teeth
11
(Chapter
6 Leaking head gasket. Perform a pression check (Chapter 2).
rotating engine
1
hissing
also detect leaks.
to the fuel injectors (see Chapter
motor operates without
A
Fault in the fuel or electrical systems 2 (Chapters 4 and 5).
5
Starter
in
1).
bolts/nuts at the throttle
ters
Engine mechanical
Engine lopes while erratically
will
cap wet, cracked or carbon
tracked (V6) (Chapter 11
clogged and/or impurities
2 Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1). 3 Fault in the fuel or electrical systems (Chapters 4 and 5). 4 Defective spark plug wires (Chapter 1 ). 5 Faulty emissions system components (Chapter 6).
at
Section.
4 Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (see previous Section). 5 Fuel pump faulty (Chapter 4). 6 Excessive moisture on, or damage to, ignition components (see Chapter 5). 7 Worn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark
cylinder) (Chapters
filter
manifold or
Vacuum leak at the gasket surfaces of 3 the intake manifold or throttle body. Make sure all mounting bolts/nuts are tightened securely and
plugs (Chapter
Fuel
the fuel system (Chapter
8
Fault in the fuel or electrical systems 2 (Chapters 4 and 5).
ter 4).
Battery
1
driving
faulty (Chapter 5).
2
3
Engine misses throughout speed range
ter 5).
Engine starts but stops immediately
distributor, coil or alternator.
2
1
10
7
7
5).
5
6
equipped) and inspect.
Starter motor mounting bolts loose or 2 missing.
inspect pinion and flywheel at earliest conve-
nience (Chapter
Check as described in Section 8. Uneven or low cylinder compression. Check compression as described in
tions.
Chapter
1
1).
leaks at intake or hose connec-
Engine hard to start when hot
Automatic transmission not completely
engaged
5).
3
5
Battery discharged or faulty. If the cable 2 connections are clean and tight on the battery posts, turn the key to the On position and switch on the headlights and/or windshield wipers. If they fail to function, the battery is
).
Check as
remove corro-
battery. Tighten the cable or
sion as necessary.
1
the fuel or electrical systems
9
Engine misses at
1
Spark plugs worn, fouled or not gapped
idle
speed
10 Low or uneven cylinder compression pressures. Test with a compression tester, which will detect leaking valves and/or a blown head gasket (Chapter 2).
0-19
Troubleshooting 13
Engine backfires
18
Battery light
fails
to
come on
when key is turned on Emissions system not functioning properly (Chapter 6). 2 Fault in the fuel or electrical systems (Chapters 4 and 5). Faulty secondary ignition system 3 (cracked spark plug insulator or faulty plug wires) (Chapters 1 and 5). 4 Vacuum leak at the throttle body, intake manifold or vacuum hoses. Check as described in Section 8. Valves sticking (Chapter 2). 5 Crossed plug wires (Chapter 1). 6 1
14
Pinging or knocking engine sounds during acceleration or
Instrument cluster warning
1
2
Alternator faulty (Chapter
Fault in the instrument cluster printed
circuit,
(Chapter
Fill
the tank with
proper octane rating. 2 Fault in the fuel or electrical systems (Chapters 4 and 5). 3 Improper spark plugs. Check the plug type against the VECI label located in the engine compartment. Also check the plugs
and wires for damage (Chapter 1). 4 Faulty emissions system (Chapter
Vacuum
5
Section
1
5
leak.
6).
Check as described
12).
24 19
Excessive fuel consumption
1
Dirty or
clogged
air filter
element (Chap-
1).
Emissions system not functioning prop-
3 Incorrect grade of fuel.
dashboard wiring or bulb holder
ter 2).
erly
1
5).
Fuel system
2
fuel of the
bulb
3
ter
uphill
light
defective (Chapter 12).
(Chapter Fault
the fuel or electrical systems tire size
20
Fuel leakage and/or fuel odor
1
Leak
a fuel feed or vent
line
(Chap-
2 Cracked cylinder bore or cylinder head. Dismantle the engine and inspect (Chapter 2). 3 Leaking intake manifold gasket (V6) (Chapter 2).
25
Coolant loss
in
Tank
2
overfilled.
Fill
only to automatic
Too much coolant
1
in
shut-off.
ter
2
Engine diesels (continues to run)
Evaporative emissions system canister 3 clogged (Chapter 6). 4 Vapor leaks from system lines (Chap-
after switching off
ter 4).
tions
23 and
4
Faulty radiator cap.
Fault
in
the fuel system (Chapter
4).
5).
Insufficient coolant in the
1
not hold a charge
Alternator drivebelt defective or not 1 adjusted properly (Chapter 1). Electrolyte level low or battery dis2
ter
24).
Have the cap pres-
and
4
Thermostat faulty (Chapter 3). Fan blades broken or cracked (Chap-
(Chapter
6
Alternator not charging properly (Chap-
ter 5).
Loose, broken or faulty wiring in the 5 charging circuit (Chapter 5). Short in the vehicle wiring causing a con6 tinuous drain on the battery (refer to Chapter 12 and the Wiring Diagrams).
Chapter
dirty
5
restricted (see
3).
Radiator cap not maintaining proper pressure. Have the cap pressure tested by a service station or repair shop. 7 Also see causes for "poor coolant circulation" in
22
1
Fault
circuit the alternator or charging
1).
Restriction
flush
and
refill
in
3).
the cooling system. Drain,
the system (Chapter
remove the
1).
If
nec-
and have it reverse flushed. 3 Water pump drivebelt defective or not radiator (Chapter 3)
adjusted properly (Chapter 1). 4 Inoperative water pump (Chapter 3). A good water pump should circulate water well
enough
to maintain a continuous flow of water
- with the heater on, and the engine at normal operating temperature, feel the inlet and outlet hoses to the heater
core, which both should
be hot
to the touch.
Section 26.
Overcooling Thermostat faulty (Chapter 3). Inaccurate temperature gauge (Chap-
Fails to release (pedal pressed to the floor - shift lever does not move freely in and out of Reverse)
ter 12).
23
(Chapter 5). or not Alternator drivebelt defective 2 properly adjusted (Chapter
Thermostat sticking (Chapter
27 2
go out
1
2
Clutch
1
Ignition light fails to
Poor coolant circulation
to the heater core
Battery defective internally.
17
26
essary,
Water pump drivebelt defective 2 (Chapter 1). Radiator core blocked or radiator grille 3
ter 3).
1).
system (Chap-
1).
charged (Chapter 1). Battery terminals loose or corroded 3
in
1 5).
External or internal leakage (see Sec-
3
Overheating
Engine electrical system will
Coolant boiling away due to overheating
(see Section
Cooling system 21
Battery
the system (Chap-
1).
sure tested.
the fuel or electrical systems
in
(Chapters 4 and
7
Leaking cylinder head gasket. Have the
1
ter 4).
9.
Fault
4
Note: Internal coolant leaks can usually be detected by examining the oil. Check the dipstick and inside of the valve cover for water deposits and an oil consistency like that of a
cooling system pressure tested.
5).
4 Low tire pressure or incorrect (Chapter 1).
in
Internal coolant leakage
milkshake.
6).
in
(Chapters 4 and
5
16
clamps. Replace hoses and/or tighten the clamps at the hose connections (Chapter 1). Water pump seals defective. If this is the 2 case, water will drip from the weep hole in the water pump body (Chapter 3). Leakage from the radiator core or side 3 tank(s). This will require the radiator to be professionally repaired (see Chapter 3 for removal procedures). 4 Engine drain plug leaking (Chapter 1) or water jacket core plugs leaking (see Chap-
1
Leak in the clutch hydraulic system. 1 Check the master cylinder, slave cylinder and
External coolant leakage Deteriorated or
damaged hoses
or loose
lines
(Chapter
2
Clutch plate warped or
ter 8).
8).
damaged (Chap-
Troubleshooting
0-20 Clutch slips (engine speed increases with no increase vehicle speed)
28
in
2
Damaged main
3
Worn countershaft bearings. Worn or damaged countershaft endplay
4
drive gear bearing.
other
selected.
shims.
Clutch plate oil soaked or lining worn. clutch (Chapter 8) and inspect. Clutch plate not seated. It may take 30 2 or 40 normal starts for a new one to seat. Pressure plate worn (Chapter 8). 3
Indicator on shifter pointing to a gear than the one actually being
b)
Vehicle
c)
moves when
in
Park.
2
Refer to Chapter 7 to adjust the linkage.
40
Transmission
1
Remove
34
Noisy
Grabbing (chattering) as clutch
Any
Insufficient lubricant (see the
of the
Oil
1
8)
Chapter
in
Since these transmissions are electroniyour dealer or a professional
on clutch plate lining. Remove (Chapand inspect. Correct any leakage
1
Worn, damaged or chipped gear teeth
in
released. Inspect the
for that
Slips out of high gear
There are many probable causes
Warped pressure plate or flywheel. Remove the clutch components and inspect.
4
Squeal or rumble with clutch
Transmission loose on clutch housing. Dirt between the transmission case and engine or misalignment of the transmission (Chapter 7).
2
fully
37
engaged (pedal released) Release bearing binding on transmission
Remove clutch components and check bearing. Remove any burrs or nicks; clean and relubricate bearing bearing retainer. 8)
retainer before installing.
Difficulty in
-
fluid level.
Before taking the vehicle to a repair shop, check the level and condition of the fluid as described in Chapter 1 Correct fluid level as necessary or change the fluid and filter if needed. If the problem persists, 2
.
engaging gears
Clutch not releasing completely (see in Chapter 1). 2 Loose, damaged or out-of-adjustment shift linkage. Make a thorough inspection, replacing parts as necessary (Chapter 7).
42
Fluid leakage
1
Automatic transmission
1
clutch adjustment
with engine air
ing (Chapter
Worn
2 (or
8).
or broken pressure plate springs
diaphragm
fingers) (Chapter 8).
Clutch pedal stays on floor
which can easily be blown by
pinpoint a leak, first remove all builtand grime from around the transmisDegreasing agents and/or steam clean-
To dirt
sion.
drive the vehicle at low
required.
not blow the leak far from its source. Raise the vehicle and determine where the leak is coming from. Common areas of leakage are:
Excessive amount of lubricant in the transmission (see Chapter 1 for correct checking procedures). Drain lubricant as 2
Transmission oil seal or speedometer need of replacement (Chapter 7).
oil
a)
in
when
b)
disengaged
speeds so
1
seal
32
leakage
oil,
ing will achieve this. With the underside clean,
Worn, defective or broken release bear-
1
Oil
a deep
flow to the transmission.
up
38
fluid is
red color. Fluid leaks should not be confused
2
Squeal or rumble with clutch fully disengaged (pedal depressed)
31
for the
above problems, but the home mechanic should be concerned with only one possibility
1
and inspect.
(Chapter
36
have to
Transmission slips, shifts rough, is noisy or has no drive in forward or reverse gears
41
damaged synchronizer
1
Worn splines on clutch plate hub. Remove the clutch components (Chapter 8)
1
or
mounts and
2).
3
30
Worn
will
diagnose the probable cause.
for that particular gear.
particular gear.
is
shop with the proper equipment
particular gear
Noisy
Worn or loose engine or transmission mounts. These units move slightly when the 2
one
35
2
bolts (Chapter
1 ).
cally controlled,
source.
clutch
will not downshift with accelerator pedal pressed to the floor
above causes, and/or: checking
1
is
engaged
ter
gears
2
procedures
29
in all
Automatic transmission
air
flow
will
Pan: Tighten the mounting bolts and/or replace the pan gasket as necessary (see Chapter 7). Filler pipe: Replace the rubber seal where the pipe enters the transmission case.
Linkage or release bearing binding.
1
Inspect the linkage or
remove the clutch com-
ponents as necessary. 2 Make sure proper pedal stop (bumper)
Manual transmission All the following
ter
unless noted.
7,
references are
to properly diagnose and service component. For problems other than the following, the vehicle should be taken to a dealer service department or a transmission
d)
shop.
e)
Noisy in Neutral with engine running Input shaft bearing worn.
Tighten the con-
mechanism
Vent pipe: Transmission overfilled and/or water in fluid (see checking procedures, Chapter 1). Speedometer connector: Replace the O-ring where the speedometer sensor enters the transmission case (Chapter 7).
Transfer case Chapter 7 deals with checking and
adjusting the shift linkage on automatic trans-
missions.
Common
problems which may be
43
attributed to poorly adjusted linkage are: a)
1
shift
oil lines:
problems
Chap1
33
General
Transmission
nectors where the lines enter the transmission case and/or replace the lines.
this
39 in
c)
mechanic is
installed.
Note:
Note: Due to the complexity of the automatic transmission, it's difficult for the home
Engine starting or Neutral.
in
Transfer case is difficult to shift into the desired range
gears other than Park 1
Speed may be too
great to
permit
Troubleshooting engagement. Stop the vehicle and
shift into
the desired range.
linkage loose, bent or binding. Check the linkage for damage or wear and replace or lubricate as necessary (Chapter 7). If the vehicle has been driven on a paved 3
2
Shift
surface for
some
Loose driveshaft bolts. Inspect all bolts and nuts and tighten them to the specified 2
Listen for evidence of rough (noisy) bearings.
Remove and
specified lubricant. (Chapter
1).
Worn or damaged internal components. 5 Disassembly and overhaul of the transfer case may be necessary (Chapter 7).
3
Worn
ings.
Check
49
Metallic grinding sound consistent with vehicle speed.
or
damaged
for
Transfer case noisy
53
8).
in all
Insufficient or incorrect
45
refill
(Chapter
gears
grade of
lubri-
Transfer case not
engaged. Stop the and then engage 4L.
fully
Shift linkage loose,
worn or binding.
Tighten, repair or lubricate linkage as necessary.
3
Shift fork cracked, inserts
binding on the
rail.
necessary (Chapter
46
worn or fork
Disassemble and repair as 7).
Lubricant leaks from the vent or output shaft seals
or replace the vent.
Output shaft seal incorrectly installed or damaged. Replace the seal and check contact surfaces for nicks and scoring. 3
1
and
8).
Brakes Note: Before assuming that a brake problem exists, make sure that the tires are in good condition and inflated properly (see Chapter 1), that the front end alignment is correct and that the vehicle is not loaded with weight in an unequal manner.
Note: Before assuming that the driveshaft is at make sure the tires are perfectly balanced and perform the following test.
Drive the vehicle and note the engine speed at which the vibration (roughness) is most pronounced. Now shift the transmission to a different gear and bring the engine speed to the
54
Vehicle pulls to one side during braking
1
Defective,
point.
If the vibration occurs at the same engine speed (rpm) regardless of which gear the transmission is in, the driveshaft is NOT at fault since the driveshaft speed varies. If the vibration decreases or is eliminated 3 when the transmission is in a different gear at the same engine speed, refer to the following probable causes. Bent or dented driveshaft. Inspect and 4 replace as necessary (see Chapter 8). Undercoating or built-up dirt, etc. on the 5 driveshaft. Clean the shaft thoroughly and
2
6
Worn
Remove
and inspect (see Chapter 8). Driveshaft and/or companion flange out 7 of balance. Check for missing weights on the shaft. Remove the driveshaft (see Chapter 8) and reinstall 180-degrees from original position, then retest. Have the driveshaft professionally balanced if the problem persists.
damaged
or
disc brake pads or shoes on
oil
contaminated
one
side. Inspect
as described in Chapter 9. Excessive wear of brake shoe or pad 2 material or drum/disc on one side. Inspect and correct as necessary. 3 Loose or disconnected front suspension
components. Inspect and tighten the specified torque (Chapter 10). 4 bly.
Defective
Remove
all
bolts to
drum brake or caliper assemdrum or caliper and inspect
the
stuck piston or other
for a
universal joint bearings.
damage (Chap-
ter 9).
5
Inadequate lubrication of front brake rails. Remove caliper and lubri-
caliper slide
cate slide
55
rails
(Chapter
9).
Noise (high-pitched squeal with the brakes applied)
Disc brake pads worn out. The noise the wear sensor rubbing against the disc (does not apply to all vehicles) or the actual pad backing plate itself if the material is completely worn away. Replace the pads with new ones immediately (Chapter 9). If the pad material has worn completely away, the brake discs should be inspected for damage as described in Chapter 9. Missing or damaged brake pad insula2 1
comes from
Axles Oil leak at seal
damaged (see Chapter 8). seals damaged (see Chap-
oil
required (see Chapters
Driveshaft
47
Pinion seal
Axleshaft
8.
recheck.
Transfer case is overfilled. Drain to the proper level (Chapter 1). 2 Vent is clogged or jammed closed. Clear 1
1
2
Differential inspection cover leaking. 3 Tighten the bolts or replace the gasket as
1 Install a tachometer inside the vehicle to monitor engine speed as the vehicle is driven.
1).
Noisy or jumps out of four-wheel drive Low range
vehicle, shift into Neutral
2
leakage
joint
Vibration
same 1
Oil
ter 8).
fault,
and
8).
universal joint bear-
wear (see Chapter
Pronounced wear in the universal bearings. Check as described in Chapter
50
cant. Drain
inspect (see Chapter
torque.
time, the driveline torque
can make shifting difficult. Stop and shift into two-wheel drive on paved or hard surfaces. 4 Insufficient or incorrect grade of lubricant. Drain and refill the transfer case with the
44
0-21
end of driveshaft
Defective transmission or transfer case proceoil seal. See Chapter 7 for replacement dures. While this is done, check the splined
yoke for burrs or a rough condition which may be damaging the seal. Burrs can be removed with crocus cloth or a fine whetstone.
51
Noise
1
Road
noise.
No
corrective procedures
available.
2
Tire noise. Inspect tires
and check
tire
pressures (Chapter 1). Rear wheel bearings loose, worn or 3 damaged (Chapter 8).
tors (disc brakes).
Chapter
Replace pad insulators (see
9).
Linings contaminated with dirt or grease. Replace pads or shoes. 4 Incorrect linings. Replace with correct
3
48
Knock or clunk when the transmission is under initial load into (just after transmission is put
52
gear)
See probable causes under Driveshaft. Proceed under the guidelines listed for the
Loose or disconnected rear suspension components. Check all mounting bolts, nuts and bushings (see Chapter 10). 1
Vibration
linings.
the problem persists, check the rear wheel bearings by raising the rear of the vehicle and spinning the rear wheels by hand. driveshaft.
56
Excessive brake pedal travel
1
Partial
If
brake system
failure.
Inspect the
Troubleshooting
0-22 entire
system (Chapter
and correct as
9)
60
required.
Check (Chapter
1),
Brake pedal pulsates during brake
drum defective. Remove (Chapter 9) and check for excessive lateral runout and parallelism. Have the disc or drum resur-
the self-adjusters (Chapter
faced or replace
(Chapter
1
Caliper improperly installed.
and inspect (Chapter 2
with a
it
new
61
Vehicle pulls to one side
system
1
Tire pressures
hoses and lines. Replace parts as necessary. Master cylinder mounting bolts/nuts
2
system (Chapter
loose.
4
Master cylinder defective (Chapter
9).
5 Problem with the anti-lock brake system (Chapter 9).
58
adjustment (Chapter
1
1 0).
Excessive effort required to stop
Power brake booster not operating prop-
1
erly
(Chapter
Excessively worn linings or pads. Inspect
if necessary (Chapter 9). One or more caliper pistons or wheel 3 cylinders seized or sticking. Inspect and
rebuild as required (Chapter
It
uneven (Chapter
1
).
Defective tire (Chapter 1). Excessive wear in suspension or steering components (Chapter 10). 4 Front end in need of alignment. Front brakes dragging. Inspect the 5 brakes as described in Chapter 9.
3
62
Shimmy, shake or vibration
1
Tire or
round.
or
shoes
installed
wheel out-of-balance or out-of-
Have
professionally balanced. Loose, worn or out-of-adjustment front wheel bearings (Chap-ter 1). 3 Shock absorbers and/or suspension components worn or damaged (Chapter 10).
63
take a while for the
drum
new
1
material
3
Hoses or
1).
and
lines restricted. Inspect
Air in
power
steering system. Bleed the
system (Chapter
10).
67
tire
Excessive to
wear
(not specific
one area)
1
Incorrect tire pressures (Chapter
2
Tires out-of-balance.
1).
Have profession-
ally balanced. Wheels damaged. Inspect and replace 3 as necessary. 4 Suspension or steering components excessively worn (Chapter 1 0).
68
Excessive
pressures incorrect (Chapter 1). Excessive speed in turns. Front end alignment incorrect (excessive
3
little
Defective shock absorbers. Replace as a
2
the master cylinder
caused by leaking wheel
leaking caliper piston(s), loose,
cylinder(s),
damaged
or
disconnected brake lines. Inspect the entire system and correct as necessary. Worn master cylinder seals (Chapter 9). 2 Problem with the anti-lock brake system 3
professionally aligned.
Broken or weak springs and/or suspen-
sion components. Inspect as described
in
wear on
edge
69
Excessive
1
Inflation
2
Front end alignment incorrect (toe-out).
tire
inside
Chapter 10.
64 1
in
Have
Suspension arm bent or twisted (Chap-
ter 10).
Excessively
stiff
steering
Have 3
or no fluid
wear on outside
Inflation
2
Excessive pitching and/or rolling around comers or during braking
tire
edge
set (Chapter 10).
(or rotor).
Pedal travels to the floor with resistance
(Chapter
1).
Fluid level low (Chapter
4
and not yet
Problem with the anti-lock brake system 6 (Chapter 9).
reservoir
drivebelt faulty or not
2
toe-in).
to seat against the
Little
pump
replace parts as necessary.
9).
will
Steering
1
linings or
New pads
seated.
1
9).
pads contaminated with or grease. Inspect and replace as required
(Chapter
Lack of power assistance
2
9).
and replace
Brake
66
adjusted properly (Chapter
vehicle
1
wheel bearings (Chapters
front
Excessive wear in suspension or steering components (Chapter 10). Steering gearbox damaged or out of 3
4 all
3
59
Loose 10).
9).
Faulty flexible hoses. Inspect
2
5
and
one.
Suspension and steering systems
Air in the hydraulic lines. Bleed the brake
1
oil
steering
2
9).
Disc or
9).
Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed
57
4
in
Problem with the anti-lock brake system
4
2
Excessive play
1
Remove
system if necessary (Chapter 9). 3 Rear brakes not adjusting properly. Make a series of starts and stops while the vehicle is in Reverse. If this does not correct the situation, remove the drums and inspect 9).
65
application
master cylinder. add fluid and bleed the
Insufficient fluid in the
2
Lack of
fluid
reservoir (Chapter
in
power steering
fluid
pressures incorrect (Chapter
1
).
professionally aligned.
Loose or damaged steering components
(Chapter
10).
1).
2
Incorrect tire pressures (Chapter 1 ). Lack of lubrication at steering joints (see 3 Chapter 1).
70
Tire tread
worn
in
4
Front end out of alignment.
1
Tires out-of-balance.
5
Lack of power assistance (see Sec-
2
Damaged
tion 62).
replace
if
one place
or buckled wheel. Inspect
necessary.
9).
3
Defective
tire
(Chapter
1).
and
1
1-1
Chapter
1
Tune-up and routine maintenance
Contents
Section replacement Automatic transmission fluid and filter change Automatic transmission fluid level check Battery check, maintenance and charging Brake and Transmission Shift Interlock (BTSI) system check (1996 models with automatic transmission) Brake check Chassis lubrication Cooling system check Cooling system servicing (draining, flushing and refilling) See Chapter Cylinder compression check
Air
filter
change Differential lubricant level check Driveaxle boot check (4WD models) Drivebelt check and replacement Engine oil and filter change Evaporative emissions control system check Exhaust system check Fluid level checks Front wheel bearing check, repack and adjustment
Differential lubricant
6 9
39 1
2
34
2A
SERVICE ENGINE SOON
32
Spark plug replacement Spark plug wire, distributor cap and rotor check and replacement Starter safety switch check Suspension and steering check Tire and tire pressure checks Tire rotation (every 7500 miles or 6 months) Transfer case lubricant change (4WD models) Transfer case lubricant level check Tune-up general information Underhood hose check and replacement Wiper blade inspection and replacement
18
23 13 10
8
36 15
4
29 27 25
replacement Fuel system check
W
Maintenance schedule Manual transmission lubricant change Manual transmission lubricant level check Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve check and replacement Power steering fluid level check Seat belt and restraint system check
24 28
filter
Section
check and adjustment and Z V6 only) (1994 and 1995 VIN
Ignition timing
Introduction
21
(2WD models) Fuel
26 30
light
31
20 35 7 16 See Chapter 6
38 37 17 14 5 19
33 22 3 1
12
Specifications
General Radiator cap pressure rating
15 psi
Brake pad wear
1/8 inch
limit
Recommended
lubricants
and
fluids
Note: Listed here are manufacturer recommendations at the time this manual was written. Manufacturers occasionally upgrade lubricant specifications, so check with your local auto parts store for current recommendations. Engine
and
oil
API "certified for gasoline engines"
Type
See accompanying chart
Viscosity
Manual transmission Borg Warner T-5
lubricant
Dexron
New Venture NV3500 New Venture NV1 500 Automatic transmission Transfer case lubricant
fluid
III®
and 1 2380672 friction modifier Dexron III® Automatic Transmission Dexron III® Automatic Transmission
GM Auto-Trak
II
Fluid Fluid or
fluid
DEX-COOL® silicate-free
or
(refer
DOT 3
fluid
GM
steering fluid
-
fluid
P° wer
80W-90
Differential
(orange-color)
DO NOT
mix the two types to Sections 4, 10 and 34)
coolant
Power
Automatic Transmission Fluid
GM 2345349 Synchromesh transmission lubricant GM 9985648 Synchromesh transmission lubricant
50/50 mi* ture of water and the specified ethylene glycol-based (green color) antifreeze
Enqine coolant
Brake
their fluid
steer,n 9 flu d or equivalent
(GL-5) gear
'
o.l
Capacities* Engine
oil
(with
filter
change)
Fuel tank
4.5 qts
20 9 als
Cooling system
2.2L four cylinder engine through 2000
2001
Engine
oil
viscosity chart
-
for best fuel
economy and cold starting, select the lowest SAE viscosity grade for the expected 1 1
5 qts
,;
99c ts
(q q^ r
cap indicates the 2.3 qts 1.1
Number One
qts
spark plug
V
wire position
q
(
2.4 qts
2001
2.0 qts
Differential
'All
Front
1.3 qts
Rear
2.0 qts
capacities approximate.
Ignition
Add as
necessary to bring to appropriate
level.
system
FIRING
ORDER
1-6-5-4-3-2
Spark plug type and gap* 2.2L four-cylinder engine 1994
with HEI ignition system
Type
AC
Gap
0.060 inch
41-908 or equivalent
AC
•.
Gap
iaJ—
41-928 or equivalent
© © ® ® O
41-948 or equivalent
Gap Through 1998 1999 and later
0.060 inch 0.040 inch
¥^i
t
4.3L V6 engine
1994 and 1995 Type
t
AC CR43TSM
Gap
or equivalent
ig nition (EDI) 124071
AC
41 -932 or equivalent 0.060 inch
Gap
>
system
2BSPEC3 HAYNESI
Cylinder numbering and distributor
Firing order
rotation
2.2L four-cylinder engine 4.3LV6 engine
t
"IRING ORDER 1-6-5-4-3-2
with Enhanced Distributor
0.045 inch
1996 on Type
1
(D
later
AC
QO
fft
0.060 inch
1998 and Type
(£TZ
Jg> 1
1995 thru 1997 Type
-
V6 engines
1-3-4-2 1-6-5-4-3-2
'The Vehicle Emission Control Label
in the
engine compartment,
if
different,
Torque specifications
supersedes
this
information
Ft-ibs
Spark plugs 2.2L four-cylinder engine 4.3LV6 engine Engine oil drain plug Automatic transmission pan bolts Wheel lug nuts
1
Introduction This Chapter
home mechanic and
Blazer,
is designed to help the maintain the Chevrolet S-10
GMC Sonoma
and Jimmy,
Oldsmobile Bravada and Isuzu Hombre mod-
13 11
15 to 20 8 to 10
95 els with the goals of
maximum
economy, safety and
reliability in
included. Refer to the
performance, mind.
tions of the engine
Included is a master maintenance schedule, followed by procedures dealing
various components.
specifically with
each item on the schedule.
checks, adjustments, component replacement and other helpful items ar»
Visual
accompanying illustracompartment and the
underside of the vehicle for the locations of Servicing your vehicle in accordance with the mileage/time maintenance schedule and
the step-by-step procedures
will result in
a
Chapter
1
Tune-up and routine maintenance
1-3
Engine compartment components (four-cylinder engine) 1
2 3 4
PCV valve
Windshield washer
5
8 9
fluid
reservoir
Engine oil filler cap/dipstick Brake fluid reservoir
6
Air cleaner housing
Clutch
7
Radiator cap
fluid reservoir
10
Power steering
fluid reservoir
Battery
Coolant reservoir
Engine compartment components (Vortec four-cylinder engine) 1
Coolant reservoir
2 3
Battery
4
Radiator cap
Power steering
5 6 7
fluid reservoir
taining
items but not others at the speci-
fied intervals will not
produce the same
results.
disAs you service your vehicle, you'll can - and cover that many of the procedures
of the be grouped together because you're pernature of the particular procedure proximity of forming or because of the close
should
filter
housing
Windshield washer reservoir Brake master cylinder reservoir
8
Automatic transmission
9
Engine
torque of as
For example, if the vehicle is raised, you should inspect the exhaust, suspension, steering and fuel systems while you're under the vehicle. When you're rotating the tires, it
allows.
makes good sense
to
check the brakes since
wrench. Even if you only need it to tighten the spark plugs, you might as well check the
oil
fill
cap
PCV valve
two otherwise unrelated components.
the wheels are already removed. Finally, let's suppose you have to borrow or rent a torque
fluid
dipstick location
10
should planned maintenance program that in produce a long and reliable service life. Keep mainmind that it's a comprehensive plan, so
some
Air
many
critical
fasteners as time
The first step in this maintenance program is to prepare yourself before the actual work begins. Read through all the procedures you're planning to do, then gather up all the parts and tools needed. If it looks like you might run into problems during a particular seek advice from a mechanic or an expe-
job,
rienced do-it-yourselfer.
Chapter
1-4
Typical engine 1
PCV valve
2
Automatic transmission Engine
compartment components 4
5
fluid
6
dipstick location
3
Tune-up and routine maintenance
1
oil filler
cap
7
Typical engine 1
Steering grease
4
Balljoint
2 3
Drivebelt
5
Fuel
Spindle (wheel bearings)
6
Transmission
fitting
V6 engine shown) 8 9 10 11
Radiator cap Battery
Coolant reservoir Engine oil dipstick
compartment underside components (2WD)
grease
filter
(early
Brake fluid reservoir Windshield washer fluid reservoir Air cleaner housing Serpentine drivebelt tensioner
fitting
7
8
9
Engine oil pan drain plug Exhaust system Balljoint grease fitting
10
Shock absorber
11
Front disc brake
Chapter
1
Typical engine 1
2 3
Shock absorber Lower radiator hose Drivebelt
compartment underside components (4WD)
4
Front disc brake
7
Automatic
Driveaxle boot
8
Exhaust system Transfer case
10
5 6
Fuel
9
Front differential
11
Engine
filter
Typical rear underside
1
2
Rear shock absorber Exhaust system
1-5
Tune-up and routine maintenance
transmission fluid
components
Driveshaft rear universal joint
5
Fuel
Fuel tank
6
Rear drum brake
filter
oil
pan
pan
Chapter
1-6
Tune-up and routine maintenance
1
2 Maintenance schedule based on the assumption be doing the maintenance or service work, as opposed to having a dealer service department do the work. Although the time/mileage intervals are loosely based on factory recommendations, most have been shortened to ensure, for example, that such items as lubricants and fluids are checked/changed at intervals that promote maximum engine/driveline service life. Also, subject to the preference of the individual owner interested in keeping his or her vehicle in peak condition at all times, and with the vehicle's ultimate resale in mind, many of the maintenance procedures may be performed more often than recommended in the following schedule. We encourage such owner initiative. When the vehicle is new it should be serviced initially by a factory authorized dealer service department to protect the factory warranty. In many cases the initial maintenance check is done at no cost to the owner (check with your dealer service department for more information).
The
following maintenance intervals are
that the vehicle
owner
will
Check the transfer case lubricant level (Section 22) Check the brakes (Section 23)* Check the driveaxle CV joint boots (4WD models only) (Section 24)
Inspect the fuel system (Section 26)
Every 30,000 miles or 24 months,
whichever comes
first
items listed above plus: Replace the air filter (Section 26) Replace the fuel filter (Section 27) Check the engine drivebelt (Section 28) Check and repack the front wheel bearings (2WD models (Section 29)"
All
Change the automatic transmission
Every 250 miles or weekly, whichever Check Check Check Check Check
the engine
oil
comes first
and
filter
(Section 30)**
Change the manual transmission lubricant (Section Change the differential lubricant (Section 32) Change the transfer case lubricant (Section 33)
level (Section 4)
the engine coolant level (Section 4) the wiper/washer fluid level (Section 4) the brake and clutch fluid levels (Section 4) the tires and tire pressures (Section 5)
Service the cooling system (drain, flush and
31)
refill)
(green-colored ethylene glycol anti-freeze only) (Section 34) Inspect and replace, if necessary, the PCV valve (Section 35) Inspect the evaporative emissions control system (Section 36) Inspect the spark plug wires, distributor cap and wires
Every 3000 miles or 3 months,
whichever comes
fluid
only)
(Section 37)
first
Replace the spark plugs (conventional spark plugs) (Section 38)
items listed above plus: Check the automatic transmission
All
fluid level
Check the power steering fluid level (Section Change the engine oil and filter (Section 8) Check and service the battery (Section 9)
(Section 6)
Every 50,000 miles or 36 months, whichever comes first
7)
Replace the spark plugs (platinum tipped spark plugs) (Section 38)
Every 7500 miles or 12 months,
whichever comes
first
Every 60,000 miles or 48 months, items listed above plus: Check the cooling system (Section 10) Inspect and replace, if necessary, all underhood hoses
All
Check and
adjust the ignition timing (1995 and earlier
V6 VIN Z
engines only) (Section 39)
(Section 11)
Inspect and replace,
if necessary, the wiper blades (Section 12) Lubricate the chassis (Section 13) Inspect the suspension and steering components (Section 14) Inspect the exhaust system (Section 1 5) Inspect the restraint system (Section 16)
Check the starter safety switch (Section 17) Check the Brake and Transmission Shift Interlock system (Section Rotate the
1
1
9)
Every 15,000 miles or 12 months, whichever comes first Check the manual transmission lubricant level (Section Check the differential lubricant level (Section 21)
20)
first
Service the cooling system (drain, flush and
colored
DEX-COOL®
refill)
(orange-
silicate-free coolant only) (Section 34)
trailer, is operated primarily in stop-and-go conditions or its brakes receive severe usage for any other reason, check the brakes every 3000 miles or three months. "If operated under one or more of the following conditions, change the automatic transmission fluid and repack the front wheel bearings (2WD models) every 15,000 miles: In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90-degrees F (32-degrees C) or higher In hilly or mountainous terrain Frequent trailer pulling *lf
(BTSI)
8)
tires (Section
Every 100,000 miles or 5 years,
whichever comes
the vehicle frequently tows a
.
Chapter
Tune-up and routine maintenance
1
1-7
4.4
The
oil
level
should be at or near the upper hole or cross-hatched area on the dipstick
- if it's
below the ADD line, add enough oil to bring the level into the upper hole or
cross-hatched area
Check
the drivebelt
and adjuster
upper part of the engine, resulting curate reading on the dipstick.
(Section 28)
Replace the spark plugs (Section 38)
On V6 engines
the engine oil dipstick (arrow) is mounted on the side of the engine - on four-cylinder engines, unscrew the oil filler cap and pull the dipstick out
4.2
Tune-up general information
3
Major tune-up
Caution: On models equipped with an antitheft audio system, be sure the lockout feature is turned off before performing any procedure which requires disconnecting the battery. The term tune-up is used in this manual to represent a combination of individual operations rather than one specific procedure. If, from the time the vehicle is new, the routine maintenance schedule is followed closely and frequent checks are made of fluid levels and high wear items, as suggested throughout this manual, the engine will be kept in relatively good running condition and the need for additional
work due
to lack of regular
be minimized. This is even a used vehicle, which has not received regular and frequent maintenance checks, is purchased. In such cases, an engine tune-up will be needed outside of the regular routine maintenance intervals. The first step in any tune-up or diagnostic procedure to help correct a poor running engine is a cylinder compression check. A
maintenance
more
likely
will
if
compression check (see Chapter
2, Part
C)
help determine the condition of internal engine components and should be used as a guide for tune-up and repair procedures. If, for instance, a compression check indicates serious internal engine wear, a conventional will
tune-up won't improve the performance of the engine and would be a waste of time and money. Because of its importance, the compression check should be done by someone with the right equipment and the knowledge to use
it
properly.
The following procedures are those most often needed to running engine back
bring a generally poor into a proper state of
Check Check
Minor tune-up Check all engine related fluids (Section Clean, inspect and test the battery (Section 9)
4)
.
.
the charging system (Chapter 5) the fuel system (Section 25)
Replace the air filter (Section 26) Replace the spark plug wires (Section 38)
illus-
tration).
Do
5
much
not
oil
overfill
the engine by adding too
since this
spark plugs,
oil
may
leaks or
result in
oil
oil
fouled
seal failures.
Oil is added to the engine after removing 6 a twist-off cap located on the engine (see
illustration).
A
funnel
may
help to reduce
spills.
Checking the
7
4
Fluid level
checks (every 250
Note: The following are fluid level checks to be done on a 250 mile or weekly basis. Additional fluid level checks can be found in specific maintenance procedures which follow. Regardless of intervals, be alert to fluid leaks under the vehicle which would indicate a problem to be corrected immediately. 1
Fluids are an essential part of the lubri-
cation, cooling, brake
and windshield washer
systems. Because the fluids gradually become depleted and/or contaminated during normal operation of the vehicle, they must
oil level is
preventive maintenance step.
low
miles or weekly)
an important
A
consistently
level indicates oil
leakage through damaged seals, defective gaskets or past worn rings or valve guides. If the oil looks milky in color or has water droplets in it, the cylinder head gasket may be blown or the head or block may be cracked. The engine should be checked immediately. The condition of the oil should also be checked. Whenever you check the oil level, slide your thumb and index finger up the dipstick before wiping off the oil. If you see small dirt or metal particles clinging to the dipstick, the oil should be oil
changed (see Section
8).
be periodically replenished. See Recom-
mended lubricants and fluids
at the beginning
Chapter before adding fluid to any of the following components. Note: The vehicle must be on level ground when fluid levels are checked. of this
Engine
oil
and 4.6 checked with a dipstick (see illustration). The dipstick
Refer to 2
illustrations 4.2, 4.4
The engine
oil
level is
extends through a metal tube oil is
pan.
On
down
into the
four-cylinder engines, the dipstick
part of the
oil filler
cap.
should be checked before the vehicle has been driven, or about 15 minutes after the engine has been shut off. If the oil is checked immediately after driving the vehicle, some of the oil will remain in the 3
tune.
filler
cross hatched area of the dipstick (see
items listed under Minor tune-up plus Check the EGR system (Chapter 6) Check the ignition timing (Section 39)
All
Pull the dipstick
unscrew the
Check the PCV valve (Section 35) Check the air filter (Section 26) Check the cooling system (Section 10) Check all underhood hoses (Section 1 1)
an inac-
from the tube (V6) or cap and withdraw the dipstick (four-cylinder) and wipe all the oil from the end with a clean rag or paper towel. Insert the clean dipstick all the way back into the tube and pull it out again. Note the oil at the end of the dipstick. Add oil as necessary to keep the level above the ADD mark in the 4
Inspect the distributor cap, rotor and sparkplug wires (Section 37)
in
The
oil
level
The engine oil filler cap is clearly marked and threads into the tube on
4.6
the engine
Chapter
1-8
4.9
4.14 Flip the windshield washer fluid cap up to add fluid
The coolant reservoir
right
is located in the (passenger side) front corner of the engine compartment
Engine coolant Refer to
illustration
Do not store new coolant or leave old coolant lying around where it's accessible to children or pets by
its
is
required to bring the system up to
the proper level, water can be used.
diately with plenty of water.
sweet
smell. Ingestion
amount of coolant can be fatal! Wipe up garage floor and drip pan coolant spills immediately. Keep antifreeze containers covered and repair leaks in the Caution: Never mix green-colored ethylene glycol anti-freeze and orange-colored DEXCOOL® silicate-free coolant because doing so will destroy the efficiency of the DEXCOOL® coolant which is designed to last for 100,000 miles or five years. All vehicles covered by this manual are 8 equipped with a pressurized coolant recovery system. A plastic coolant reservoir located at the front of the engine compartment is connected by a hose to the radiator filler neck. As the engine warms up and the coolant expands, it escapes through a valve in the radiator cap and travels through the hose into the reservoir. As the engine cools, the coolant
How-
ever, repeated additions of water will dilute
the antifreeze and water solution.
In
order to
maintain the proper ratio of antifreeze and water, always top up the coolant level with
An empty plastic milk jug makes an excellent container mixing coolant. Do not use rust inhibitors
the correct mixture. or bleach bottle for
or additives.
of even a small
cooling system immediately.
Remove the cell caps to check the
4.16
water
level in the battery
low,
coolant
4.9
Warning: Do not allow antifreeze to come in contact with your skin or painted surfaces of the vehicle. Flush contaminated areas imme-
they're attracted
Tune-up and routine maintenance
1
1
If
the coolant level drops consistently,
may be
there
a leak
the radiator, hoses,
water
pump
in
filler
the system. Inspect cap, drain plugs and
(see Section 10).
If
no leaks are
noted, have the radiator cap pressure tested
by a service station. 12 If you have to remove the radiator cap, wait until the engine has cooled completely, then wrap a thick cloth around the cap and turn it to the first stop. If coolant or steam escapes, let the engine cool down longer, then remove the cap. 13 Check the condition of the coolant as well. It should be relatively clear. If it is brown or rust colored, the system should be drained, flushed and refilled. Even if the coolant appears to be normal, the corrosion inhibitors
wear
out,
so
it
must be replaced
at
the specified intervals.
add
distilled
- if
the level
is
water only
Battery electrolyte Refer to 1
All
4.16
illustration
vehicles covered by this manual are
equipped with a battery which is permanently sealed (except for vent holes) and has no filler caps. Water does not have to be added to these batteries at any time; however, if a maintenance-type battery has been installed on the vehicle since it was new, remove all the cell caps on top of the battery (usually there are two caps that cover three cells each). If the electrolyte level is low, add distilled water until the level is above the plates. There is usually a split-ring indicator in each cell to help you judge when enough water has been added (see illustration). Add water until the electrolyte level is just up to the bot-
tom
Do not overfill spew out electrolyte
of the split ring indicator.
the battery or
when
it
is
will
it
charging.
Brake and clutch Refer to
illustrations
fluid
4.17 and 4.18
The brake master cylinder is located on power booster unit in the engine compartment (see illustration). The clutch master cylinder is mounted on the inner fender 17
the front of the
to the
18
left
of the brake master cylinder.
The brake
make
checked above the
reservoir can be
is
automatically drawn back into the cooling system to maintain the correct level.
Windshield washer fluid
visually to
The coolant level in the reservoir should be checked regularly. Warning: Do not remove the radiator cap to check the coolant level when the engine is warm. The level in
Refer to
The fluid level in the clutch reservoir should be near the top of the reservoir (see
the reservoir varies with the temperature of the engine. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at or slightly above
milder climates, plain water can be used in the reservoir, but it should be kept no more
9
the
ADD
tion).
mark on the
Once
reservoir (see illustra-
the engine has
warmed
up, the
should be at or near the FULL HOT mark. If it isn't, allow the engine to cool, then unscrew the cap from the reservoir and add a 50/50 mixture of ethylene glycol based green-colored antifreeze or orange-colored DEX-COOL® silicate-free coolant and water (see Caution above). 10 Drive the vehicle and recheck the coolant level. If only a small amount of level
14
illustration 4.
14
Fluid for the windshield
located
washer system
in
In
than two-thirds full to allow for expansion if the water freezes. In colder climates, use windshield washer system antifreeze, available at any auto parts store, to lower the freezing point of the fluid. Mix the antifreeze with water in accordance with the manufac-
on the container. Caution: Do not use cooling system antifreeze - it will
turer's directions
damage the vehicle's paint. 15 To help prevent icing
in cold weather, the windshield with the defroster before using the washer.
warm
of the plastic
is
windows
in
the
reservoir.
a plastic reservoir on the left side of the engine compartment (see illustration). is
MIN marks
sure the level
illustration).
19
When
adding
fluid,
pour
the reservoir to avoid spilling
it
carefully into
it
on surround-
Be sure the specified used, since mixing different types of brake fluid can cause damage to the system. ing painted surfaces.
fluid is
See Recommended
lubricants
and
fluids at
the front of this Chapter or your owner's
manual. Warning: Brake fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so use extreme caution when handling or pouring it. Do not use brake fluid that has been standing open or is more than one year old. Brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air. Excess moisture can cause a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.
Chapter
4.17 The brake fluid level is easily checked by looking through the windows in the reservoir - the level must never drop below the MIN marks
20 At this time the fluid and master cylinder can be inspected for contamination. The system should be drained and refilled if deposits, dirt particles
or water droplets are seen
in
the
fluid.
21 level,
fluid
After
the reservoir to the proper sure the cap is on tight to prevent
filling
make
Tune-up and routine maintenance
1
4.18
The clutch
about
half
fluid level should be an inch from the top of
the reservoir
Check
brake lines and connections (see
all
Section 23 for more information).
23
If,
when checking the master
cylinder
you discover one or both reservoirs empty or nearly empty, the brake system should be bled (see Chapter 9). fluid level,
leakage.
22 The brake fluid level in the master cylinder will drop slightly as the pads at each wheel wear down during normal operation. If the master cylinder requires repeated replenishing to keep it at the proper level, this is an indication of leakage in the brake system, which should be corrected immediately.
5
Tire
and
tire
pressure checks
5.2 Use a tire tread depth gauge to monitor tire wear - they are available at auto parts stores and service stations and cost very little
stranded with a flat tire. It can also provide you with vital information regarding possible problems in the steering and suspension systems before major damage occurs.
The original tires on this vehicle are equipped with 1/2-inch wide bands that appear when tread depth reaches 1/16-inch, indicating the tires are worn out. Tread wear can be monitored with a simple, inexpensive 2
device known as a tread depth indicator (see
(every 250 miles or weekly)
illustration).
1
illustration).
may
Periodic inspection of the tires
spare
you
the
inconvenience
of
Note any abnormal tread wear (see Tread pattern irregularities such as cupping, flat spots and more wear on one 3
Refer to illustrations 5.2, 5.3, 5.4a, 5.4b and 5.8
being
side than the other are indications of front
OVERINFLATION
UNDERINFLATION
CUPPING Cupping may be caused by: • Underinflation and/or mechanical irregularities such as out-of-balance condition of wheel and/or tire, and bent or damaged wheel. • Loose or worn steering tie-rod or steering idler arm. • Loose, damaged or worn front suspension parts.
5.3 This chart will help
INCORRECT TOE-IN
OR EXTREME CAMBER
1-9
you determine the
condition of the tires, the probable cause(s) of abnormal wear and the corrective action necessary
FEATHERING DUE TO MISALIGNMENT
Chapter
1-10
5.4a If a tire looses air on a steady basis, check the valve core first to make sure it's snug (special inexpensive wrenches are
commonly
available at auto parts stores)
Tune-up and routine maintenance
1
5.4b If the valve core is tight, raise the corner of the vehicle with the low tire and spray a soapy water solution onto the tread as the tire is turned slowly - leaks will cause small bubbles to appear
5.8 To extend the life of the tires, check the air pressure at least once a week with an accurate gauge (don't forget the spare)
6.6 The automatic transmission fluid level must be maintained within the cross-hatched area on the dipstick, between the upper and lower holes when hot
6.3
The automatic transmission
dipstick (arrow)
is
fluid
located at the rear of
the engine compartment
end alignment and/or balance problems. If any of these conditions are noted, take the vehicle to a tire shop or service station to correct the problem.
4
Look closely
embedded hold
for cuts,
nails or tacks.
punctures and
Sometimes a
tire
pressure for short time or leak down very slowly after a nail has embedded itself in the tread. If a slow leak persists, check the valve stem core to make sure it's tight (see illustration). Examine the tread for an object that may have embedded itself in the tire or for a "plug" that may have begun to leak (radial tire punctures are repaired with a will
air
plug that's installed
in a puncture). If a puncsuspected, it can be easily verified by spraying a solution of soapy water onto the suspected area (see illustration). The soapy
ture
is
solution
will
bubble
if
7
Always check
tires
are cold. Cold,
vehicle has not
is unusually large, a tire shop or service station can usually repair the tire. Carefully inspect the inner sidewall of 5 each tire for evidence of brake fluid. If you see any, inspect the brakes immediately.
Correct air pressure adds miles to the lifespan of the tires, improves mileage and
6
overall ride quality. Tire pressure
level
can lead to slipping or loss of
tire
pressure case,
in this
when means
the the
been driven over a mile
in the pressure check. A pressure rise of four to eight pounds is not uncommon once the tires are warm. Unscrew the valve cap protruding from 8 the wheel or hubcap and push the gauge
three hours preceding a
tire
onto the valve stem (see illustration). Note the reading on the gauge and compare
firmly
recommended tire pressure shown on the label attached to the inside of the glove compartment door. Be sure to reinstall the valve cap to keep dirt and moisture out of the valve stem mechanism. Check all four tires and, if necessary, add enough air to bring them up to the recommended pressure. Don't forget to keep the spare tire 9
the figure to the
of fluid.
2
With the parking brake
engine, then
move
level fluid
all
fluid
if
the vehi-
tube. The dipstick is located at the rear of the engine compartment (see illustration). 4 Carefully touch the fluid at the end of the dipstick to determine
Wipe the
if
the fluid
is
cool,
warm
from the dipstick with a clean rag and push it back into the filler tube or hot.
fluid
until
the cap seats.
5
Pull
the dipstick out again and note the
If
the
the level should be marks on the dipstick (see
fluid felt cool,
illustration).
illustrations 6.3 and 6.6 The automatic transmission fluid should be carefully maintained. Low
The
filler
within the lower
1
through
Park.
has just been driven at high speeds for an extended period, in hot weather in city traffic, or if it has been pulling a trailer. If any of these conditions apply, wait until the fluid has cooled (about 30 minutes). With the transmission at normal operat3 ing temperature, remove the dipstick from the
6
Refer to
in
cle
your owner's manual or the
Automatic transmission fluid level check (every 3000 miles or 3 months)
set, start the
shift lever
rect fluid level readings will result
fluid level.
6
the
level must be checked with the vehicle level and the engine running at idle. Note: Incor-
inflated to the specified pressure (refer to tire sidewall).
drive,
while overfilling can cause foaming and loss
the gear ranges, ending
often inaccurate.
there's a leak. Unless
the puncture
enhances
cannot be accurately estimated by looking at a tire, especially if it's a radial. A tire pressure gauge is essential. Keep an accurate gauge in the vehicle. The pressure gauges attached to the nozzles of air hoses at gas stations are
If
it
felt
warm
or hot, the level
should be within the cross-hatched upper areas on the dipstick. If additional fluid is required, pour it directly into the tube using a funnel. It takes about one pint to raise the level from the lower mark to the upper edge of the cross-hatched area with a hot transmission, so add the fluid a little at a time and
keep checking the
level until it's correct.
1
Chapter
The power
7.2
steering fluid reservoir
1
Tune-up and routine maintenance
The engine oil drain plug is located at the rear of the oil pan - it is usually very tight, so use a box-end wrench to avoid rounding off the hex
is
8.7
located near the front (drivebelt end) of the engine; turn the cap counterclockwise for
removal
The condition of the fluid should also be checked along with the level. If the fluid at the end of the dipstick is a dark reddish-brown color, or if the fluid has a burned smell, the fluid should be changed. If you're in doubt about the condition of the fluid, purchase some new fluid and compare the two for color and smell. 7
These tools are required when changing the engine oil and filter
by jackstands. Warning: Do not work under a vehicle which is supported only by a hydraulic
Drain pan
or scissors-type jack. 4 If this is your first
8.2
1
shallow
in
should be fairly depth, but wide to prevent - It
spills
2
Rubber gloves - When removing the drain plug and filter, you will get oil on your hands
(the gloves will
prevent burns)
3
7
Power
steering fluid level check 4
1
ing
illustration 7.2
Unlike manual steering, the power steer-
system
relies
on
fluid
which may, over a
period of time, require replenishing. 2 The fluid reservoir for the power steenng pump is located at the front of the engine
should be 4 Use a clean rag to wipe off the reservoir cap and the area around the cap. This will entering help prevent any foreign matter from the reservoir during the check. Twist off the cap and check the temper5
5
The
level
was hot the COLD mark
the
fluid
HOT mark
should be at the to the touch. if
the fluid
It
if
should be at cool to the
was
touch. required, pour the 7 If additional fluid is reservoir, specified type directly into the using a funnel to prevent spills. requires frequent fluid If the reservoir 8 hoses, hose all power steering
additions,
pump and connections, the power steering should be carethe rack and pinion assembly fully checked for leaks.
Filter
fit
wrench
-
the drain plug)
This
is
a metal band-
type wrench, which requires
clearance around the
to
filter
be
effective
6
Filter
wrench
bottom of the
-
fits on and can be
This type
filter
the
turned with a ratchet or breaker bar (different-size wrenches are available
off.
dipstick ature of the fluid at the end of the with your finger. Wipe off the fluid with a clean rag, rein6 the fluid sert it, then withdraw it and read
-
is tight,
correct size to
(see illustration). For the check, the front wheels should 3 be pointed straight ahead and the engine
level.
Sometimes the oil and a long breaker bar is needed to loosen it Socket - To be used with the breaker bar or a ratchet (must be the Breaker bar drain plug
(every 3000 miles or 3 months) Refer to
1-11
for different types of
8
filters)
Engine oil and filter change (every 3000 miles or 3 months)
Refer to illustrations 8. 14
8.2, 8.
7, 8.
12a, 8.
12b
oil change, get under the vehicle and familiarize yourself with the
locations of the oil drain plug and the oil filter. The engine and exhaust components will be
warm
during the actual work, so try to anticipate any potential problems before the engine and accessories are hot. Park the vehicle on a level spot. Start 5 the engine and allow it to reach its normal operating temperature. Warm oil and sludge will flow out more easily. Turn off the engine
when
it's
warmed
up.
may be necessary
spills.
Access to the underside of the vehicle is if the vehicle can be lifted on a hoist, driven onto ramps or supported
cap
hot.
Frequent oil changes are the best preventive maintenance the home mechanic can give the engine, because aging oil becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear. Make sure you have all the necessary 2 tools before you begin this procedure (see illustration). You should also have plenty of rags or newspapers handy for mopping up
filler
jackstands to support the vehicle when it becomes necessary to place your body underneath the vehicle. 7 Being careful not to touch the hot exhaust components, place the drain pan under the drain plug in the bottom of the pan and remove the plug (see illustration). You may want to wear gloves while unscrewing the plug the final few turns if the engine is
8
any
the
designed solely for raising the vehicle to remove and replace the wheels. Always use
and 1
Remove
from the valve cover. 6 Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Warning: Never get beneath the vehicle when it is supported only by a jack. The jack provided with your vehicle is
Allow the old
oil
to drain into the pan.
to
move
under the engine as the trickle.
Inspect the old
oil
oil
It
the pan farther flow slows to a
for the
presence of
metal shavings and chips. After all the oil has drained, wipe off the 9 drain plug with a clean rag. Even minute
metal particles clinging to the plug would immediately contaminate the new oil. 10 Clean the area around the drain plug opening, reinstall the plug and tighten it
3
securely, but
greatly improved
1
the
Move oil filter.
do not strip the threads. the drain pan into position under
Chapter
1-12
8.12a On V6 engines the oil filter is located remote from the engine, under a cover
12 Loosen the oil filter (see illustrations) by turning it counterclockwise with the filter wrench. Any standard filter wrench should work. Once the filter is loose, use your hands to unscrew it from the block. Just as the filter is detached from the block, immediately tilt the open end up to prevent the oil inside the filter from spilling out. Warning: The exhaust system may still be hot, so be careful. 13 With a clean rag, wipe off the oil filter mounting surface. Also make sure that the old gasket doesn't remains stuck to the mounting surface. It can be removed with a scraper
necessary.
if
1
8.12b The oil filter is usually on very tight as well and will require a special wrench for removal - DO NOT use the wrench to tighten the new filter!
disposal company, disposal
facility
or envi-
ronmental agency to see whether they will accept the oil for recycling. Don't pour used oil into drains or onto the ground. After the oil has cooled, it can be drained into a suitable container (capped plastic jugs, topped botmilk cartons, etc.) for transport to
these disposal
9
Because overtightening the filter will damage the gasket, do not use a filter wrench to tighten the filter. Tighten it by hand illustration).
until
8.14 Lubricate the oil filter gasket with clean engine oil before installing the filter on the engine
19 During the first few trips after an oil change, make it a point to check frequently for leaks and proper oil level. 20 The old oil drained from the engine cannot be re-used in its present state and should be discarded. Check with your local refuse
tles,
Compare the old filter with the new one to make sure they are the same type. Smear some clean engine oil on the rubber gasket of the new filter and screw it into place (see 14
Tune-up and routine maintenance
one
of
sites.
Battery check, maintenance and charging (every 7500 miles or 6
months)
the gasket contacts the seating surface.
Then seat the
filter
by giving
it
an additional
Remove
15
Refer to
illustrations 9. 1,9.4, 9.5a,
9.5b and 9.1
9.5c
3/4-turn. all
tools, rags, etc.
from under
the vehicle, being careful not to spill the the drain pan, then lower the vehicle. 1
Add new
filler
cap
in
oil in
oil to the engine through the oil the valve cover. Use a funnel, if
necessary, to prevent oil from spilling onto the top of the engine. Pour three quarts of fresh oil into the engine. Wait a few minutes to allow the oil to drain into the pan, then check the level on the oil dipstick (see Sec-
Warning: Hydrogen gas is produced by the battery, so keep open flames and lighted tobacco away from it at all times. Always wear eye protection when working around the battery. Rinse off spilled electrolyte immediately with large
amounts of
water.
When
Tools and materials required for battery maintenance
Face shield/safety goggles
-
When
removing corrosion with a brush, the acidic particles can easily fly up into your eyes Rubber gloves - Another safety item
when servicing the remember that's acid inside
4 if necessary). If the oil level is at or near the upper hole on the dipstick, install the filler
removing the battery cables, always detach the negative cable first and hook it up last! Caution: On models equipped with a Delco Loc II audio system, be sure the lockout feature is turned off before performing any procedure which requires disconnecting the bat-
Battery terminal/cable cleaner This wire brush cleaning tool will remove all traces of corrosion from
cap hand
tery.
the battery
Battery maintenance is an important procedure which will help ensure you aren't stranded because of a dead battery. Several tools are required for this procedure (see
Treated
tion
new
oil
tight, start
the engine and allow the
to circulate.
1
17 Allow the engine to run for about a minute. While the engine is running, look under the vehicle and check for leaks at the
pan drain plug and around the oil filter. If either is leaking, stop the engine and tighten
oil
the plug or
filter.
Wait a few minutes to allow the oil to trickle down into the pan, then recheck the 18
level
on the dipstick and,
enough hole.
oil
necessary, add to bring the level to the upper if
illustration).
A sealed battery is standard equipment on all vehicles covered by this manual. Although this type of battery has many advantages over the older, capped cell type, and never requires the addition of water, it should still be routinely maintained according to the procedures which follow. 2
to
consider
battery
-
the battery!
and cable washers
felt
-
Placing one
of these on each terminal, directly under the cable end, will help
prevent corrosion (be sure to get the correct type for side-terminal batteries)
Baking soda - A solution of baking soda and water can be used to neutralize corrosion
Petroleum jelly
-
A
layer of this
the battery terminal bolts
prevent corrosion
will
on
help
21
Chapter
9.4
Check the tightness
Tune-up and routine maintenance
1
9.5a A tool like this one (available at auto parts stores) is used to clean the side
of the battery cable terminal bolts
1-13
Use the brush
9.5b
to finish the
cleaning job
terminal type battery contact area
Check 3
The
battery
is
located
in,
the right front
corner of the engine compartment. The exterior of the battery should be inspected periodically for
damage such
as a cracked case
or cover.
4 Check the tightness of the battery cable terminals and connections to ensure good electrical connections and check the entire length of each cable for cracks and frayed conductors (see illustration). 5 If corrosion (visible as white, fluffy deposits) is evident, remove the cables from the terminals, clean them with a battery brush and reinstall the cables (see illustrations). Corrosion can be kept to a minimum by using
special treated fiber washers available at auto parts stores or by applying a layer of
petroleum
jelly to
the terminals and cables
assembled. 6 Make sure that the battery tray is in good condition and the hold-down clamp bolt are tight. If the battery is removed from the tray, make sure no parts remain in the after they are
bottom stalled.
clamp 7
of the tray
When
bolt,
do
when
the battery
reinstalling
is
rein-
the hold-down
not overtighten
it.
Information on removing and installing
in Chapter 5. Information on jump starting can be found at the front of this manual. For more detailed battery checking procedures, refer to the Haynes Automotive Electrical Manual.
the battery can be found
Cleaning Corrosion on the hold-down compo8 nents, battery case and surrounding areas can be removed with a solution of water and baking soda. Thoroughly rinse all cleaned areas with plain water. 9 Any metal parts of the vehicle damaged by corrosion should be covered with a zincbased primer, then painted.
flammable, is produced. Do not smoke or allow open flames near a charging or a
when near make sure
the charger is unplugged before connecting or disconnecting the battery from the charger.
10 Slow-rate charging is the best way to restore a battery that's discharged to the point where it will not start the engine. It's also a
good way
Charging
to maintain the battery
charge in a vehicle that's only driven a few miles between starts. Maintaining the battery charge is particularly important in the winter
when the battery must work harder to start the engine and electrical accessories that drain the battery are in greater use. 1
It's
best to use a one or
two-amp
9.5c
The
result should
bat-
(sometimes called a "trickle" charger). They are the safest and put the least strain on the battery. They are also the least expensive. For a faster charge, you can use a higher amperage charger, but don't use one rated more than 1/1 0th the amp/hour rating of the battery. Rapid boost charges that claim to restore the power of the battery in one to two hours are hardest on the battery and can damage batteries that aren't in good tery charger
condition. This type of charging should only in emergency situations. The average time necessary to charge a battery should be listed in the instructions that come with the charger. As a general rule, a trickle charger will charge a battery in 12
be used 1
be a clean, shiny terminal area
couple of hours. 15 If the battery has removable
cell
measure the
hydrome-
specific gravity with a
caps,
every hour during the last few hours of the charging cycle. Hydrometers are available inexpensively from auto parts stores - follow ter
come with the hydromeConsider the battery charged when there's no change in the specific gravity reading for two hours and the electrolyte in the cells is gassing (bubbling) freely. The specific gravity reading from each cell should be very the instructions that ter.
close to the others.
If
not, the battery
proba-
to 16 hours.
bly
has a bad
13 Remove all of the cell caps (if equipped) and cover the holes with a clean cloth to prevent spattering electrolyte. Disconnect the negative battery cable and hook the battery
16
Some
batteries with sealed tops have hydrometers on the top that indicate the state of charge by the color displayed in the hydrometer window. Normally, a brightcolored hydrometer indicates a full charge and a dark hydrometer indicates the battery still needs charging. Check the battery manu-
charger leads to the battery posts (positive to positive, negative to negative), then plug in the charger. Make sure it is set at 12-volts if it
has a selector switch. 14 If you're using a charger with a rate higher than two amps, check the battery regularly during
Warning: When batteries are being charged, hydrogen gas, which is very explosive and
Wear eye protection the battery during charging. Also,
recently charged battery.
charging to
make
sure
doesn't overheat. If you're using a trickle charger, you can safely let the battery charge overnight after you've checked it regularly for the first it
cell(s).
built-in
facturer's instructions to what the colors mean.
17
be sure you know
the battery has a sealed top and no hydrometer, you can hook up a digital voltmeter across the battery terminals to If
built-in
check the charge. A fully charged battery should read 12.5-volts or higher.
Chapter
1-14
the
Check could
chafed area that prematurely.
for a
fail
Tune-up and routine maintenance
1
left until
reaches a stop.
sounds
sure
the system), wait
in
down on
press
Check for a soft area indicating the hose has deteriorated inside.
it
hissing
If
you hear any
(indicating there until
it
is still
stops.
pres-
Now
the cap with the palm of your
hand and continue turning to the left until the cap can be removed. Thoroughly clean the cap, inside and out, with clean water. Also clean the filler neck on the radiator. All traces of corrosion should be removed. The coolant inside the radiator should be relatively transparent. If it is rust colored, the system should be drained and refilled (see Section 34). If the coolant level is not up to the top, add additional antifreeze/coolant mixture (see Section 4).
Carefully check the large upper and lower radiator hoses along with any smaller diameter heater hoses which run from the engine to the firewall. Inspect each hose
4
Overtightening the clamp on a hardened hose will damage the hose and cause a leak.
along which
its is
entire length, replacing any hose cracked, swollen or shows signs of
deterioration.
apparent
Cracks may become more is squeezed (see illus-
the hose
if
tration).
5 tight.
Make sure
A
hose connections are
all
leak in the cooling
show up as
system
will
usually
white or rust colored deposits on
the areas adjoining the leak.
If
wire-type
clamps are used at the ends of the hoses, it may be wise to replace them with more
Check each hose
for swelling and oil-soaked ends. Cracks and breaks can be located by squeezing the hose.
secure screw-type clamps.
Use compressed remove bugs, leaves,
6
air
or a soft brush to
etc.
from the front of
conditioning condenser.
the radiator or
air
careful not to
damage
fins or cut yourself
Be
the delicate cooling
on them.
Every other inspection, or at the first indication of cooling system problems, have the cap and system pressure tested. If you don't have a pressure tester, most gas stations and repair shops will do this for a minimal charge. 7
10.4 Hoses, like drivebelts, have a habit of failing at the worst possible time - to prevent the inconvenience of a blown radiator or heater hose, inspect them carefully as shown here
10
Cooling system check (every 7500 miles or 6 months)
11
Underhood hose check and replacement (every 7500 miles or 6 months)
General 1
Warning: Replacement of air condition-
ing hoses
Refer to
illustration 10.4
Caution: Never mix green-colored ethylene and orange-colored DEXCOOL® silicate-free coolant because doing so will destroy the efficiency of the DEXCOOL® coolant which is designed to last for 100,000 miles or five years. Many major engine failures can be 1 attributed to a faulty cooling system. If the vehicle is equipped with an automatic trans-
glycol anti-freeze
.
mission, the cooling system also cools the fluid and plays an important role in prolonging transmission life. The cooling system should be checked 2 with the engine cold. Do this before the vehi-
transmission
cle
driven for the day or after the engine off for at least three hours. Remove the radiator cap by turning it to
is
must be
department or
air
a dealer service conditioning shop that has left to
equipment to depressurize the system Never remove air conditioning components or hoses until the system has been the
safely.
expanded and/or hardened where over the
It's
aren't used,
make
hose to
leak.
If
clamps
sure the hose hasn't
it
slips
to leak.
common in
for
vacuum hoses,
the emissions system, to
correct installation.
When
checking vacuum hoses, be sure any plastic T-fittings in the check. Inspect the fittings for cracks and the hose where it fits over the fitting for distortion, which could cause leakage. 7 A small piece of vacuum hose (1/4-inch inside diameter) can be used as a stethoscope to detect vacuum leaks. Hold one end of the hose to your ear and probe around vacuum hoses and fittings, listening for the "hissing" sound characteristic of a vacuum leak. Warning: When probing with the vacuum hose stethoscope, be careful not to allow your body or the hose to come into contact with moving engine components such as the drivebelt, cooling fan, etc. 6
to include
Fuel hose Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don't smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don't work in a garage where a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water heater or clothes dryer) with a pilot light is present. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a Class B type fire extinguisher on hand. The fuel system is under pressure, so if any lines must be disconnected, the pressure in the system must be relieved first (see Chapter 4 for more information).
Check
8
all
rubber fuel lines for deteriora-
and chafing. Check especially for cracks in areas where the hose bends and just before fittings, such as where a hose attaches to the fuel filter and fuel injection
tion
unit.
tension, allowing the
it
be color coded or identified by colored stripes molded into each hose. Various systems require hoses with different wall thickness, collapse resistance and temperature resistance. When replacing hoses, be sure the new ones are made of the same material. Often the only effective way to check a 5 hose is to remove it completely from the vehicle. If more than one hose is removed, be sure to label the hoses and fittings to ensure
9
3
quite
especially those
High temperatures under the hood can cause the deterioration of the rubber and plastic hoses used for engine, accessory and emission systems operation. Periodic inspection should be made for cracks, loose clamps, material hardening and leaks. Information specific to the cooling system hoses can be found in Section 10. Some, but not all, hoses are secured to 3 the fittings with clamps. Where clamps are used, check to be sure they haven't lost their
has been shut
allowing
Vacuum hoses 4
depressurized.
2
fitting,
specifically line, High-quality fuel for high-pressure fuel-injection
destgned
applications,
must be used
for fuel
line
replacement. Never, under any circumstances, use unreinforced vacuum line, clear plastic tubing or water hose for fuel lines. 10 Spring-type clamps are commonly used
on
fuel lines.
These clamps often lose
their
tension over a period of time, and can be "sprung" during the removal process. As a result spring-type clamps should be replaced with screw-type clamps whenever a hose is replaced.
1
Chapter
Squeeze the end of the windshield wiper element to free it from the bridge claw, then slide the element out
12.5 Depress the release lever, then slide the blade assembly out of the hook in the
end
of the wiper
Sections of steel tubing often used for between the fuel pump and fuel
and
kinks
flat
Check
spots
in
carefully for cracks,
the
line.
12 If a section of metal fuel line must be replaced, only seamless steel tubing should be used, since copper and aluminum tubing
do not have the
strength necessary to with-
stand normal engine vibration. Check the metal brake lines where they 13 enter the master cylinder and brake propor-
and
used) for cracks in the lines Any sign of brake fluid leakage calls for an immediate thorough inspection of the brake system. tioning unit
loose
12.12 On rear wipers, pull the element out of the end, the slide it from the frame
(if
7
Grasp the end
of the wiper
bridge
securely with one hand and the element with the other. Detach the end of the element from the bridge claw and slide to free
it,
then slide
the element out (see illustration).
8
Compare
the
new element
with the old
for length, design, etc.
9
Slide the
new element into the claw into end last and secure the claw
place, notched
into the notches.
Reinstall the blade
assembly on the arm,
wet the windshield and
test for proper opera-
1
tion.
fittings.
Wiper blade inspection and replacement (every 7500 miles or 6 months)
12
Rear wiper Remove the nut and detach the wiper 11 arm assembly. Grasp the of the wiper bridge securely 12 with one hand pull the end of the element out of the bridge claw and slide to free it, then slide the
13
element out (see
Installation
is
13.1
Refer to
illustrations 12.5, 12.7
body
the reverse of removal.
and 12.12
1 The windshield and rear wiper and blade assemblies should be inspected periodically for damage, loose components and cracked
worn blade elements. 2 Road film can build up on the wiper blades and affect their efficiency, so they should be washed regularly with a mild detergent solution. 3 The action of the wiping mechanism can
sary,
checked. elements (sometimes If the wiper blade 4 warped, called inserts) are cracked, worn or they should be replaced with
new
ones.
Windshield wiper Remove the wiper blade assembly from release lever the wiper arm by depressing the it (see while pulling on the blade to release 5
illustration).
cle,
vehiWith the blade removed from the from you can remove the rubber element
lubrication
Engine
oil
like this
can be used
-
Light engine for
oil in a can door and
hood hinges 13
Chassis lubrication (every 7500 miles or 6 months)
2
Refer to
illustrations 13.1, 13.6a, 13.6b,
13.6c, 13.8a 1
and 13.8b
Refer to
Recommended
lubricants
grease gun (see illustration). Occasionally plugs will be installed rather than grease fittings. If so, grease fittings will have to be purchased and installed. Look under the vehicle and see if grease 2 fittings or plugs are installed. If there are plugs, remove them and buy grease fittings, which will thread into the component. A dealer or auto parts store will be able to supply the correct fittings. Straight, as well as
-
Used
to lubricate
Grease - Grease, in a variety of types and weights, is available for use in a grease gun. Check the Specification for your requirements
and
the front of this Chapter to obtain the necessary grease, etc. You'll also need a
fluids at
Graphite spray lock cylinders
3
or
loosen the bolts, nuts and fasteners, so they should be checked and tightened, as necesblades are at the same time the wiper
Materials required for chassis and
illustration). 1
6
1-15
the blade.
fuel line
injection unit.
12.7
arm
Metal lines 1
Tune-up and routine maintenance
1
4
Grease gun - A common grease shown here with a detachable hose and nozzle, is needed for gun,
chassis lubrication. After use, clean thoroughly!
removed
it
at this interval for tire rotation or
brake inspection, loosen the lug nuts slightly while the vehicle is still on the ground. 4 Before beginning, force a little grease out of the nozzle to remove any dirt from the
end
of the gun.
Wipe the nozzle clean with a
angled, fittings are available.
rag.
3
For easier access under the vehicle, a jack and place jackstands it with under the frame. Make sure it's safely supported by the stands. If the wheels are to be
5
raise
rags, crawl under the vehicle
With the grease gun and plenty of clean and begin lubri-
cating the components.
6
Wipe one
of the
grease
fittings
clean
Chapter
1-16
13.6a Location of the lower balljoint grease fitting (arrow)
Tune-up and routine maintenance
1
13.6b The upper balljoint grease fitting is easier to reach if the front wheel is
13.8a Be careful not to pump too much grease into the clutch shaft fitting (arrow) - one or two pumps should do
and push the nozzle trations).
Pump
firmly over
the gun
until
it (see illusthe balljoint
rubber seal is firm to the touch. Do not pump too much grease into the fitting as it could rupture the seal.
Wipe the excess grease from the components and the grease fitting. Repeat the 7
procedure for the remaining fittings On manual transmission-equipped 8 models, lubricate the clutch linkage pivot points with clean engine oil. Some models have a grease fitting for the internal clutch fork ballstud located
on the clutch housing (see illustration). Be careful not to pump too much grease into this fitting because it could cause the clutch to malfunction. On some
models its possible to unscrew the access plug and apply a small dab on grease on the contact area between the clutch release lever and release cylinder pushrod (see illustration). Again,
be careful not to use too much
13.6c
(arrow)
13.8b
Be sure to grease each arm balljoint (arrow)
steering
removed
Use a mirror and
flashlight to look
into the inspection hole (arrow)
14.4
and apply
Check the suspension arm and
stabilizer bar
connections (arrows)
a small dab of grease in the clutch lever and release cylinder pushrod contact area
grease on the hood latch mechanism. Have an assistant pull the hood release lever from inside the vehicle as you lubricate the sis
cable at the latch. 11 Lubricate all the hinges (door, hood, etc.) with engine oil to keep them in proper working order. 1 The key lock cylinders can be lubricated with spray graphite or silicone lubricant,
which
is
available at auto parts stores.
Lubricate the door weatherstripping with silicone spray. This will reduce chafing and 1
visually
ing
components
for wear.
Because
steer-
of the
work to be done, make sure the vehicle cannot fall from the stands. 3 Check the wheel bearings. Do this by spinning the front wheels. Listen for any abnormal noises and watch to make sure the wheel spins true (doesn't wobble). Grab the top and bottom of the tire and pull in-and-out on it. Any movement would indicate a loose wheel bearing assembly. If the bearings are suspect, refer to Section 29 and Chapter 1 for
more information. From under the
vehicle check for loose broken or disconnected parts and deteriorated rubber bushings on all suspension and steering components (see illustra-
4
retard wear.
check the suspension and
and
bolts,
14
Suspension and steering check (every 7500 miles or 6 months)
Check the steering gear seals for leaks. Check the power steering hoses and connec-
tion).
tions for leaks.
Refer to
illustrations 14.4
and
Indications of a fault
14.5
5
these systems
fluid or
Check the shock absorbers or leaking damage (see illustration). Have an assistant turn the steering
grease.
1
cable, along with the cable guides
Clean and lubricate the parking brake and levers. This can be done by smearing some of the chassis grease onto the cable and its related
are excessive play in the steering wheel before the front wheels react, excessive sway around corners, body movement over rough
6 wheel from side-to-side and check the steer-
parts with your fingers.
roads or binding at some point as the steering wheel is turned. Raise the front of the vehicle periodically 2
the steering doesn't react with the movement of the steering wheel, try to determine where the slack is located.
9
10
Open
the
hood and smear a
little
chas-
in
ing
components
and binding.
If
for free
movement, chafing
Chapter
Exhaust system check (every 7500 miles or 6 months)
Refer to
illustrations 15.2a
and 15.2b
Tune-up and routine maintenance
Check the exhaust system rubber hangers for cracks and damage
Check for signs of oil leaks in this area of each shock absorber (arrow)
4 If any of the above checks reveal problems with the seat belt system, replace parts as necessary. 5 On air bag-equipped models, inspect the air bag cover for damage or warping.
1-17
Check the exhaust system connections to the chassis
15.2a
14.5
15
1
15.2b
19
Tire rotation (every
7500 miles or
6 months) Refer to
illustration 19.2
The
should be rotated at the speciand whenever uneven wear is
With the engine cold (at least three hours after the vehicle has been driven), check the complete exhaust system from the engine to the end of the tailpipe. Ideally, the inspection should be done with the vehicle on
17
a hoist to permit unrestricted access. If a hoist is not available, raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Check the exhaust pipes and connec2 tions for evidence of leaks, severe corrosion and damage. Make sure that all brackets and hangers are in good condition and tight (see
Warning: During the following checks there's a chance the vehicle could lunge forward, possibly causing damage or injuries. Allow plenty of room around the vehicle, apply the parking brake and hold-down the regular brake pedal during the checks. 1 Try to start the engine in each gear. The
3 Refer to the information in Jacking and towing at the front of this manual for the proper procedures to follow when raising the vehicle and changing a tire. If the brakes are going to be checked, don't apply the parking brake as stated. Make sure the tires are blocked to prevent the vehicle from rolling as
illustrations).
engine should crank only in Park or Neutral. Make sure the steering column lock 2 allows the key to go into the Lock position
it's
raised.
4
The same
1
1
3
At the
same
time, inspect the underside
open seams, etc. which may allow exhaust gases to enter the interior. Seal all body openings with siliof the
body
for holes, corrosion,
cone or body
putty.
Starter safety switch
check
noticed.
(every 7500 miles or 6 months)
2
only
when
The the Lock 3
18
suspension parts, secure the exhaust system with new mounts.
16
1
Seat belt and restraint system check (every 7500 miles or 6 months) Check the seat
plates
belts,
and guide loops
for
buckles, latch
obvious
damage
and signs of wear. 2 See if the seat belt reminder light comes Start on when the key is turned to the Run or position. A chime should also sound. The seat belts are designed to lock up 3 yet allow during a sudden stop or impact,
movement during normal driving. Make against sure the retractors return the belt the belt your chest while driving and rewind unlatched. fully when the buckle is
free
Refer to the
accompanying
illustration
for the preferred tire rotation pattern.
the
shift lever is in
ignition
key should
Park.
come
out only
in
position.
Rattles and other noises can often be 4 traced to the exhaust system, especially the
mounts and hangers. Try to move the pipes, muffler and catalytic converter. If the components can come in contact with the body or
tires
fied intervals
Brake and Transmission Shift Interlock (BTSI) system check (1996 models with automatic transmission) (every 7500 miles or 6 months)
entire vehicle should
be raised
time. This
make sure the vehicle is safely supported. 5 After rotation, check and adjust the tire pressures as necessary and be sure to check the lug nut tightness.
Warning: During the following check there's a chance the vehicle could lunge forward, possibly causing damage or injuries. Allow plenty of room around the vehicle and be ready to hold-down the regular brake pedal during the check. Park the vehicle on a level surface with 1 the engine
2
off.
Be prepared
to apply the vehicle brakes
necessary and, with the parking brake securely applied, turn the ignition key to the if
Run
position, then try to
out of Park. If the lever 3
move
the
shift lever
LR
RR
RADIAL TIRE ROTATION
not move out of Park, the operating properly. If lever does move out of Park, take the vehicle to your dealer to have the BTSI system checked.
BTSI system
will
at
can be done on a hoist or by jacking up each corner and then lowering the vehicle onto jackstands placed under the frame rails. Always use four jackstands and the
11-AJHAYNESI
is
19.2 Tire rotation diagram
Chapter
1-18
1
20.1 Locations of the manual transmission check and drain plugs (arrows)
20
Tune-up and routine maintenance
21 .2a Rear differential fill/check plug
21 .2b Front differential fill/check plug location (arrow)
location (arrow)
Manual transmission lubricant level check (every 15,000 miles or 12 months)
Refer to
"
illustration 20.
The manual transmission has a fill plug which must be removed to check the lubri1
cant level (see illustration).
If
the vehicle
is
be sure
to
raised to gain access to the plug,
support it safely on jackstands - DO NOT crawl under a vehicle which is supported only by a jack! Remove the plug from the transmission 2 and use your little finger to reach inside the housing to feel the lubricant level. The level should be at or near the bottom of the plug
^^WQH|^^^|
^p
M
.
22.1 Transfer
case check and drain plug
locations (arrows)
hole. If it isn't, add the recommended lubri3 cant through the plug hole with a syringe or
squeeze bottle. 4 Install and tighten the plug and check for leaks after the first few miles of driving.
22
check (every 15,000 miles or 12 months)
Differential lubricant level
Refer to
illustrations
The
21.2a and 21.2b
has a filler plug which must be removed to check the lubricant level. If the vehicle is raised to gain access to the plug, be sure to support it safely on jackstands - DO NOT crawl under the vehicle when it's supported only by the jack. 2 Remove the filler plug from the side of 1
differential
1
suspected. Raise the vehicle and place it securely on jackstands. Remove the wheels (see Jacking and towing at the front of this manual, if necessary).
Transfer case lubricant level check (every 15,000 miles or 12 months)
Refer to
21
Disc brakes
illustration 22.
The
transfer case
lubricant
level
is
checked by removing the upper plug located in the back of the case (see illustration). After removing the plug, reach inside the 2 hole. The lubricant level should be just at the bottom of the hole. If not, add the appropriate lubricant through the opening.
23
Brake check (every 15,000 miles or 12 months)
The
be at the botnot, use a syringe
lubricant level should
tom of the plug opening. If to add the recommended lubricant
starts to run out of the opening.
until
it
just
On some
models a tag is located in the area of the plug which gives information regarding lubricant type, particularly on models equipped with a limited slip differential.
4
Install
the plug and tighten
Warning: Brake system dust is hazardous to your health. DO NOT blow it out with compressed air or inhale it. DO NOT use gasoline or solvents to remove the dust. Use brake system cleaner or denatured alcohol only. Note: For detailed photographs of the brake system, refer to Chapter 9. 1
it
Refer
securely.
In
addition to the specified intervals, the
brakes should be inspected every time the wheels are removed or whenever a defect is
(front) 23.5
to illustrations
Disc brakes can be checked without removing any parts except the wheels. 2
Extensive disc
damage can occur when needed.
if
the pads
are not replaced
3
The disc brake pads have
indicators which
make a
built-in
wear
high-pitched squeal-
ing sound when the pads are worn. Caution: Expensive damage to the disc can result if the pads are not replaced soon after the wear
indicators start squealing.
4
the differential (see illustrations).
3
23.5 Look through each end of the caliper to check the thickness of the pad lining, which rubs against the disc (arrow)
The disc brake
the pads, are
now
which contain There is an outer each caliper. All pads
calipers,
visible.
pad and an inner pad in should be inspected. 5 Check the material thickness by inspecting the end of the pad or by looking into the "window" in the caliper (see illustration). If the pad material has worn to about 1/8-inch thick or less, the pads should be replaced.
6
If
you're unsure about the exact thick-
2 1
8 7
Chapter
Tune-up and routine maintenance
1
1-19
of fluid leakage. With your finger or a small
screwdriver, carefully pry back the rubber cups on the wheel cylinder located at the top of the brake shoes. Any leakage here is an indication that the wheel cylinders should be overhauled immediately (see Chapter 9). Also, check all hoses and connections for
signs of leakage.
Wipe the
1
inside of the
drum
with a clean
rag and denatured alcohol or brake cleaner.
Again, be careful not to breathe the danger-
ous brake dust.
Check the
1
inside of the
drum
for cracks,
score marks, deep scratches and "hard spots"
23.14 If the lining is bonded to the brake shoe, measure the lining thickness from the outer surface to the metal shoe, as shown here (A); if the lining is riveted to the shoe, measure from the lining outer surface to the rivet head
which will appear as small discolored areas. If imperfections cannot be removed with fine emery cloth, the drum must be taken to an automotive machine shop for resurfacing. 19 Repeat the procedure for the remaining wheel.
If
are
good
condition, reinstall the brake
install
the wheels and lower the vehi-
in
drums,
ness of the remaining lining material, remove the pads for further inspection or replace-
ment
(refer to Chapter 9). Before installing the wheels, check for leakage and/or damage at the brake hoses and connections. Replace the hose or fittings as necessary, referring to Chapter 9. Check the condition of the brake rotor. 8 Look for score marks, deep scratches and
7
appear blue or wear is noted, the disc can be removed and resurfaced by an automotive machine shop or replaced with a new one. Refer to Chapter 9 for more detailed inspection and repair procedures. overheated areas (they discolored).
If
damage
Drum brakes Refer to
will
or
it
will
Some models have
10
and
optional rear disc
Steps 2 through 8 as shown
in
for front disc
brakes.
lock the
drums
in
The parking brake is operated by a hand and locks the rear brake system. The easiest, and perhaps most obvious, method lever
checking the operation of the is to park the vehicle with the parking brake set and
parking brake assembly
on a steep
Remove the wheels, referring to Jacking towing at the front of this manual if nec-
hill
rolling,
Driveaxle boot check (4WD models) (every 15,000 miles or 12 months) 24.2
essary.
Refer to
Mark the hub so it can be reinstalled in the same position. Use a scribe, chalk, etc. on the drum, hub and backing plate.
The driveaxle boots are very important because they prevent dirt, water and foreign material from entering and damaging the constant velocity (CV) joints. Oil and grease can cause the boot material to deteriorate prematurely, so it's a good idea to wash the boots with soap and water. Inspect the boots for tears and cracks 2
1
Remove
1
the brake drum. carefully clean
With the drum removed, brake assembly with brake system cleaner. Warning: Don't blow the dust out 13
the
with (it
compressed
may
air
and don't
inhale
contain asbestos, which
is
any of it
harmful to
your health). Note the thickness of the lining material 14 on both front and rear brake shoes. If the 1/8-inch of material has worn away to within the the recessed rivets or metal backing, shoes should be replaced (see illustration). The shoes should also be replaced if they're covered cracked, glazed (shiny areas), or with brake
15
Make
fluid.
sure
all
the
brake assembly
condition. springs are connected and in good for signs 16 Check the brake components
illustration
1
as well as loose clamps (see illustration). If there is any evidence of cracks or leaking grease, they must be replaced as described in
Chapter
25
on your skin, rinse it off immedisoap and water. Mop up any spills immediately and do not store fuel-soaked rags where they could ignite. The fuel system is under constant pressure, so, if any fuel lines are to be disconnected, the fuel pressure in the system must be relieved first (see Chapter 4 for more information). When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a Class B type fire extinguisher on hand. 1 The fuel system is most easily checked with the vehicle raised on a hoist so the components underneath the vehicle are readily visible and accessible.
8.
Fuel system check (every 15,000 miles or 12 months)
Warning: Gasoline
is
any
fuel
ately with
21
24
type appliance (such as a water heater or clothes dryer) is present. Since gasoline is carcinogenic, wear latex gloves when there's a possibility of being exposed to fuel, and, if you spill
Parking brake
of periodically
(arrow)
open flames or bare light bulbs near the work and don't work in a garage where a gas-
brakes. Follow the inspection procedures
place.
shown
area,
Disc brakes (rear) 20
Push on the boot and check for cracks or leaking grease in the area
24.2
parts
cle to the ground.
brake cannot prevent the vehicle from it needs service (see Chapter 9).
14
Raise the vehicle and support it securely 9 on jackstands. Block the front tires to prevent the vehicle from rolling; however, don't apply the parking brake or
all
the transmission in Neutral (be sure to stay in the vehicle during this check!). If the parking
(rear)
illustration 23.
the inspection reveals that
extremely flammable, so
take extra precautions
when you work on any smoke or allow
part of the fuel system. Don't
2
If
the smell of gasoline
is
noticed while
been in the the system should be thoroughly inspected immediately. 3 Remove the gas tank cap and check for driving or after the vehicle has
sun,
damage, corrosidn and an unbroken sealing imprint on the gasket. Replace the cap with a new one if necessary. 4 With the vehicle raised, inspect the gas tank and filler neck for cracks and other dam-
The connection between the filler neck and tank is especially critical. Sometimes a filler neck will leak due to cracks, problems a home mechanic can't repair. Warning: Do not, under any circumstances, try to repair a fuel tank yourself (except rubber components). A welding torch or any open flame can age.
easily cause the fuel vapors to explode if the proper precautions are not taken. Carefully check all rubber hoses and 5 metal lines leading away from the fuel tank. Check for loose connections, deteriorated hoses, crimped lines and other damage. Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle, carefully inspecting them all the way. Repair or
replace
damaged
sections as necessary.
Chapter
1-20
26.8b Separate the housing halves
26.8a Detach the air cleaner housing clips
27.4a Use two wrenches to loosen the and detach if from the filter (if available, use a flare nut wrench on the fuel line nut fitting)
fuel lines
26
Air filler
Tune-up and routine maintenance
1
of the fuel ting tic
filter
replacement (every 8
30,000 miles or 24 months)
Detach the two
halves and
lift
the
clips,
filter
Wipe out the inside of the housing with a clean rag. 10 Place the new filter in the 9
Refer to
illustrations 26.8a,
26.8b and 26.8c
1 At the specified intervals, the air filter should be replaced with a new one. The filter should be inspected between changes.
The air filter 2 cleaner housing
is
located inside the
mounted on top
4
Remove the wing
Lift
the
TBI
air
nuts and
lift
off
27
unit.
cleaner element out of the
Wipe out the inside of the air cleaner 5 housing with a clean rag. Place the new filter into the housing, 6 make sure it seats properly then install the top plate and wing nuts.
Central Port Injection and Multiport Fuel Injection The
located inside the air cleaner housing mounted in the left front corner of the engine compartment. air filter is
replacement (every 30,000 miles or 24 months) Fuel
filter
the top
housing.
7
air
air
of the
plate of the air cleaner housing. While the top plate is off, be careful not to drop anything into the
cleaner
cleaner housing. Make sure it seats properly, seat the two halves together and secure them with the
engine
down
air
clips.
TBI models
3
separate housing
out (see illustrations).
Refer to
illustration
27.4a and 27.4b
Warning: Gasoline
extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don't smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don't work in a garage where a gas-type appliance (such as a water heater or clothes dryer) is present. Since gasoline is carcinogenic, wear latex gloves when there's a possibility of being exposed to fuel, and, if
you
any
is
on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water. Mop up any spills immediately and do not store fuelsoaked rags where they could ignite. The fuel spill
system
fuel
under constant pressure, so, if any fuel lines are to be disconnected, the fuel is
the filter element out of the housing
Lift
The serpentine drivebelt routing is located on the radiator shroud
28.7
On 1997 and
later models one end has a quick disconnect fit- to remove the line squeeze the plasclips on the fitting together and pull back on the line
27.4b
26.8c
diagram
pressure
in
must be relieved first more information). When
the system
(see Chapter 4 for
you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a Class B type fire extinguisher on hand. 1 Relieve the fuel system pressure (see Chapter 4). 2 Raise the vehicle and support
it
securely
on jackstands. 3 Place a container, newspapers or rags under the fuel filter. 4 Use two wrenches, one to steady the fil-
and the other to unscrew the fuel line nut, then separate the connections (see illustrations). It's a good idea to use a flarenut wrench because the wrap-around design ter
it a better grip on the fuel line nut. Detach the filter from the bracket. Install the new filter and connect the
gives
5 6
fuel
lines securely.
28
Drivebelt
check and replacement
(every 30,000 miles or 24 months) Refer to 1
A
illustration 28. is located engine and plays an importhe overall operation of the engine
single serpentine drivebelt
at the front of the
tant role in
and
its
components. Due to
material
make
and should be
up, the belt
its
is
function
and
prone to wear
periodically inspected.
The
9 61 7
Chapter
Tune-up and routine maintenance
1
1-21
then push it back into its original position. This should force the outer bearing off the spindle enough so it can be removed. 10 Pull the hub/disc assembly off the spindle. 1
Use a screwdriver to pry the seal out of As this is done, note how
the rear of the hub. the seal
12
is
installed.
Remove
the inner wheel bearing from
the hub.
13
Use solvent
to
remove
all
traces of the
old grease from the bearings,
hub and spindle. A small brush may prove helpful; however make sure no bristles from the brush
and materials needed for front wheel bearing maintenance
29.1 Tools
1
Hammer - A common hammer will
2
do just fine Grease - High-temperature grease that
is
formulated for front wheel
29.15 Work the grease completely into the bearing rollers - if you don't like getting greasy, special bearing packing tools that work with a common grease gun are available inexpensively from auto parts stores
bearings should be used
3
Wood block piece of 2x4,
it
new seal into
hub Needle-nose pliers - Used to straighten and remove the cotter pin the
4
you have a scrap can be used to drive
- If
the
in the spindle
5
Torque wrench
-
This
is
very
ponents and slowly release the tensioner. 7 Route the new belt over the various pulleys,
again rotating the tensioner to allow the
belt to
be
installed,
then release the belt ten-
These models have a drivebelt routing decal on the radiator shroud to help sioner. Note:
during drivebelt installation (see illustration)'
important in this procedure; if the bearing is too tight, the wheel won't turn freely
- if it's
"wobble" on the spindle. Either way, it could mean extensive
wheel
will
Screwdriver - Used seal from the
hub
(a
to
preferred)
Socket/breaker bar - Needed to loosen the nut on the spindle if it's
8
Brush
extremely tight - Together with
some
clean
be used to remove old grease from the hub and spindle
solvent, this will
serpentine belt drives the alternator, power steering pump, water pump and air conditioning compressor.
With the engine off, open the hood and 2 use your fingers (and a flashlight, if necessary), to move along the belt checking for cracks and separation of the belt plies. Also check for fraying and glazing, which gives the belt a shiny appearance. Both sides of the belt should be inspected, which means you will have to twist the belt to check the underside. Check the ribs on the underside of the 3 depth, with belt. They should all be the same
none of the surface uneven. 4 The tension of the belt is maintained by adjustable. the tensioner assembly and isn't The belt should be replaced at the mileage at the specified in the maintenance schedule damaged or front of this Chapter, or if it is
worn. tensioner replace the belt, rotate the to release belt tension.
To 5 counterclockwise 6
Remove
the belt from the auxiliary
it
and
seat, shoulder
repack and adjustment (2WD models) (every 30,000 miles)
Put a small quantity of grease inboard of each bearing race inside the hub. Using your
illustrations 29. 1 and 29. 15 most cases the front wheel bearings will not need servicing until the brake pads are changed. However, the bearings should be checked whenever the front of the vehicle is
Refer to
long screwdriver
1
is
into the bearings, forcing
between the rollers, cone and cage from the back side (see illustration). 1 Apply a thin coat of grease to the spinseal seat.
1
form a
dam
these points to provide and to keep thinned grease from flowing out of the bearing. 18 Place the grease-packed inner bearing into the rear of the hub and put a little more grease outboard of the bearing. 1 Place a new seal over the inner bearing and tap the seal evenly into place with a hamfinger,
at
extra grease availability
remove the
7
grease completely
Front wheel bearing check,
damage 6
Check the bearing races inside the hub for wear and damage. If the bearing races are defective, the hubs should be taken to a machine shop with the facilities to remove the old races and press new ones in. Note that the bearings and races come as matched sets and old bearings should never be installed on new races. 15 Use high-temperature front wheel bearing grease to pack the bearings. Work the
dle at the outer bearing seat, inner bearing
29
too loose, the
embed themselves inside the bearing rollers. Allow the parts to air dry. 14 Carefully inspect the bearings for cracks, heat discoloration, worn rollers, etc.
com-
In
raised for any reason. Several items, including a torque wrench and special grease, are required for this procedure (see illustration). 2 With the vehicle securely supported on jackstands, spin each wheel and check for noise, rolling resistance and freeplay. Grasp the top of each tire with one hand 3 and the bottom with the other. Move the wheel in-and-out on the spindle. If there's any noticeable movement, the bearings should be checked and then repacked with
grease or replaced if necessary. Remove the wheel. 4 Remove the brake caliper (see Chap5 ter 9) and hang it out of the way on a piece of wire. A wood block can be slid between the brake pads to keep them separated, if necessary.
6
mer and
blunt
punch
until it's flush
with the
hub.
20
Carefully place the hub assembly onto the spindle and push the grease-packed outer bearing into position.
21
Install
the washer and spindle nut. Tighten
the nut only slightly (no more than 12 ft-lbs of torque).
Spin the hub in a forward direction while tightening the spindle nut to approxi-
22
mately 20
ft-lbs to seat the bearings and remove any grease or burrs which could
cause excessive bearing play later. 23 Loosen the spindle nut 1/4-turn, then using your hand (not a wrench of any kind), tighten the nut until
it's
snug.
Install
the nut
and a new cotter pin through the hole in the spindle and the slots in the nut lock. If the nut lock slots don't line up, remove the nut lock and turn it slightly until they do. 24 Bend the ends of the cotter pin until they're flat against the nut. Cut off any extra length which could interfere with the dust lock
Pry the dust cap out of the hub using a
screwdriver or
hammer and
chisel.
Straighten the bent ends of the cotter pin, then pull the cotter pin out of the nut lock. Discard the cotter pin and use a new
7
one during reassembly.
Remove the nut lock, nut and washer 8 from the end of the spindle. Pull the hub/disc assembly out slightly, 9
cap.
25
Install
with a
the dust cap, tapping
hammer.
it
into place
Chapter
1-22
30.6 With the rear bolts
in
loose, pull the front of the
Tune-up and routine maintenance
1
30.9 Rotate the
place but
pan down to
clip,
filter
then lower
it
out of the retaining
necessary, use a screwdriver to seal from the transmission be careful not to gouge the aluminum housing
30.10
from the transmission
If
remove the
drain the transmission fluid
the lug nuts.
28 Grasp the top and bottom of the tire and check the bearings in the manner described earlier in this Section.
29
Lower the
vehicle.
fluid and change (every 30,000 miles
or 24 months) Refer to 1
illustrations 30.6,
30.9 and 30. 10
At the specified intervals, the transmis-
and replaced. remain hot long after driving, perform this procedure only after the engine has cooled down completely. 2 Before beginning work, purchase the specified transmission fluid (see Recommended lubricants and fluids at the front of this Chapter) and a new filter. Other tools necessary for this job 3 include a floor jack, jackstands to support the vehicle in a raised position, a drain pan capable of holding at least five quarts, newspapers and clean rags. 4 Raise the vehicle and support it securely sion fluid should be drained
Since the
Install the new filter. the gasket surface on the transmission pan is clean, then install a new
11
fluid will
pan loose
with a screwdriver, allowing the fluid to drain
(see illustration).
31
Remove the filter from the mount inside 9 the transmission (see illustration). 1 If the seal did not come out with the fil-
This procedure should be performed has been driven so the lubricant will be warm and therefore will flow out 1
of the differential
2
more
easily.
Raise the vehicle and support
securely
it
on jackstands. 3 The easiest way to drain the differential is to remove the lubricant through the filler plug hole with a suction pump. In fact, this is the only way to remove the front differential lubricant because it has no drain plug or removIf the rear differential's bolt-on cover gasket is leaking, it will be necessary to remove the cover to drain the lubricant (which
also allow you to inspect the differential).
Changing the lubricant with a
Manual transmission lubricant change (every 30,000 miles or 24 months)
suction pump 4 Remove the
fill
plug from the differential
(see Section 20) 1
Raise the vehicle and support
it
securely
on jackstands.
Move
a drain pan, rags,
newspapers
and wrenches under the transmission. 3
Insert the flexible hose. Work the hose down to the bottom of the differential housing and pump the lubricant out.
5
Changing the lubricant by removing
Remove
the transmission drain plug at the bottom of the case and allow the lubri-
the cover
cant to drain into the pan (see illustra-
6
tion 20.1).
and wrenches under the
4
After the lubricant has drained
pletely,
reinstall
com-
the plug and tighten
it
Drain the fluid from the transmission it with solvent and dry it with comair.
7c
after the vehicle
will
Remove the fill plug from the side of the 5 transmission case. Using a hand pump, syringe or funnel, fill the transmission with the specified lubricant until it begins to leak out through the hole. Reinstall the fill plug and
pressed
illustrations 32. 7a, 32. 7b, 32.
able cover.
securely.
pan, clean
Refer to
and 32.9
on the dipstick. 15 Check under the vehicle the first few trips.
for leaks during
change
(every 30,000 miles or 24 months)
Draining
Remove
the remaining bolts, pan and gasket. Carefully clean the gasket surface of the transmission to remove all traces of the old gasket and sealant.
Differential lubricant
the final torque figure is reached. 12 Lower the vehicle and add approximately three and one-half quarts of the specified type of automatic transmission fluid through the filler tube (see Section 6). 13 With the transmission in Park and the parking brake set, run the engine at a fast idle, but don't race it. 14 Move the gear selector through each range and back to Park. Check the fluid level. It will probably be low. Add enough fluid to bring the level up to top of the COLD range
6
Carefully pry the transmission
32
Make sure
gasket on the pan. Put the pan in place against the transmission and, working around the pan, tighten each bolt a little at a time
2
8
The new
appropriate size.
on jackstands. Place the drain pan underneath the 5 transmission pan. Remove the front and side pan mounting bolts, but only loosen the rear pan bolts approximately four turns.
7
it
illustration).
until
30 Automatic transmission filter
remove
from the transmission (see seal can be driven squarely into place using a socket of the
ter,
26 Place the brake caliper near the rotor and carefully remove the wood spacer. Install the caliper (see Chapter 9). 27 Install the wheel on the hub and tighten
tighten
6
it
securely.
Lower the
vehicle.
Drive the vehicle for a short distance, 7 then check the drain and fill plugs for leakage.
Move
a drain pan, rags, newspapers vehicle.
Remove
the bolts on the lower half of the plate (see illustration). Loosen the bolts on the upper half and use them to keep the 7
cover loosely attached \see illustration). Allow the pletely
8
oil
to drain into the pan, then
remove the cover (see
Using a
lint-free rag,
com-
illustration).
clean the inside of
the cover and the accessible areas of the ferential housing.
As
this is
done, check
chipped gears and metal particles
in
the
dif-
for
lubri-
cant, indicating that the differential should
more thoroughly inspected and/or
repaired.
be
1
7
.
Chapter
32.7a
Remove edge
the bolts from the lower of the cover
.
32.7b
34.6
then loosen the top bolts and the lubricant drain out
The drain plug
comer
Thoroughly clean the gasket mating surdifferential housing and the cover
9
,
.
32.9 Carefully scrape the old gasket material off to ensure a leak-free seal
part of the
5
tration).
the plug securely.
10 Apply a thin layer of RTV sealant to the cover flange, then press a new gasket into
6
Fill
until
it
Make
position on the cover.
sure the bolt
Refilling 1 Use a hand pump,
syringe or funnel to the differential housing with the specified lubricant until it's level with the bottom of the Install
the
fill
case
is
and
install
the drain plug
completely drained. Tighten
the case with the specified lubricant level with
the lower edge of the
filler
Install
the
filler
plug and tighten
it
same time
the cooling system is hoses and the radiator cap should be inspected and replaced if defective 2
At the
serviced,
all
(see Section
3
1 0).
Since antifreeze
sonous
hole.
solution,
be
is
a corrosive and poi-
careful not to spill
any of
the coolant mixture on the vehicle's paint or
happens, rinse
immedi-
securely.
your skin.
Drive the vehicle for a short distance and recheck the lubricant level. In some instances a small amount of additional lubri-
ately with plenty of clean water. Consult local
8
fill
plug hole.
Carefully clean
7
holes align properly.
34.7
cause engine damage.
Use a gasket scraper or putty knife to remove all traces of the old gasket (see illus-
is
The block drain plug(s) (arrow) are located below the exhaust manifold(s) (V6 shown)
located at the lower
case and allow the old lubricant to
drain completely. after the
is
32.7c After the lubricant has drained, remove the bolts and the cover
let
of the radiator (arrow)
faces of the plate.
1-23
Tune-up and routine maintenance
1
.
cant
will
If
authorities
this
it
about the dumping of antifreeze
before draining the cooling system. areas, reclamation centers have
have to be added.
to
plug.
off
collect
automobile
oil
In
many
been set up
and
drained
antifreeze/water mixtures, rather than allow-
34
33
Transfer case lubricant change (4WD models) (every 30,000 miles
Cooling system servicing (draining, flushing
and
refilling)
(every 30,000 miles or 24 months) Refer to
in
minutes Drive the vehicle for at least 15 lubricant in stop and go traffic to warm the
warm-up procedure
in
the case. Perform Use all gears, including Reverse, to this
4WD
ensure the lubricant
is
sufficiently
drain completely. Raise the vehicle and support 2
on jackstands.
warm
to
securely
plug from the case
34.6 and 34.
Caution: Never mix green-colored ethylene glycol anti-freeze and orange-colored DEXCOOL® silicate-free coolant because doing so will destroy the efficiency of the DEXCOOL® coolant which is designed to last for 100,000 miles or
it
Remove the 3 (see illustration 22.1). lower Remove the drain plug from the 4 filler
illustrations
1
to be added to the sewage system. With the engine cold, remove the radia-
Move a
system should
be drained, flushed and refilled to replenish the antifreeze mixture and prevent formation of rust and corrosion, which can impair the performance of the cooling system and
large container under the radia-
tor to catch the coolant
6
as
it's
drained.
Drain the radiator by opening the drain
plug at the bottom on the
left side (see illusthe drain plug is corroded and can't be turned easily, or if the radiator isn't equipped with a plug, disconnect the lower
tration).
radiator
five years.
Periodically, the cooling
them
tor cap.
5
or 24 months) 1
ing
4
If
hose to allow the coolant to drain. Be on your skin or in
careful not to get antifreeze
your eyes. Note: On later models, the radiator drain plug flows to the side rather than down. Attach a length of hose to the fitting on the drain to lessen spillage.
Chapter
1-24
35.1a On V6 engines the PCV valve is located in the valve cover - to check it, pull it out and feel for suction and shake to make sure it rattles
Tune-up and routine maintenance
1
35.1b
7
each cylinder bank). Disconnect the hose from the coolant 8
and remove the reservoir (see
Chapter 3). Flush it out with clean water. Place a garden hose in the radiator filler 9 neck and flush the system until the water runs clear at
all
Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve check and replacement (every 30,000 miles or 24 months)
inserting the
hose
in
the bottom radiator out-
to allow the water to run against the nor-
mal flow, draining through the top. A radiator repair shop should be consulted if further cleaning or repair 11
When
is
is
refilled
regularly drained
with the correct
antifreeze/water mixture, there should be no need to use chemical cleaners or descalers.
12
To
the system,
install the block any radiator hoses and install the reservoir and the overflow hose. 13 Make sure to use the proper coolant (see Caution above). The manufacturer recommends adding GM cooling system sealer part number 3634621 any time the coolant is changed. Slowly fill the radiator with the recrefill
Refer to
plug, reconnect
mixture of antifreeze and water to the base of the filler neck. Wait two minutes and recheck the coolant level, adding if necessary, then install the radiator cap. Add to the reservoir
.until
it
reaches
the lower mark. 1 Keep a close watch on the coolant level and the cooling system hoses during the first few miles of driving. Tighten the hose clamps
and/or add more coolant as necessary. The coolant level should be a little above the HOT
mark on the
reservoir with the engine at nor-
mal operating temperature.
illustrations 35. 1a
and
bracket above the rear axle and behind the gas tank on pick-up models. On sport-utility
models, it's located in the quarter panel area behind the left rear wheel. Check the canister
hoses for damage and deterioration. The evaporative emissions control system is explained in more detail in Chapter 6.
and
all
35. 1b
With the engine idling at normal operating temperature, pull the valve (with hose attached) out of the rubber grommet in the valve cover (see illustrations). 2 Place your finger over the end of the valve. If there is no vacuum at the valve, check for a plugged hose, manifold port, or the valve itself. Replace any plugged or deteTurn
3
off
the engine and shake the
valve, listening for rattle,
replace
it
a
rattle.
with a
To replace the
end and
of the hose, noting
it
out of the
installed position
direction.
When
5 cle,
one.
valve, pull its
PCV
the valve doesn't
If
new
4
make
purchasing a replacement sure
PCV
your particular vehimodel year and engine size. Compare the
old valve with the
it's
for
new one
make
to
sure they
Push the valve
6
until it's
into the
end
of the
hose
grommet for damage and replace with a new one if necessary. Push the PCV valve and hose securely 8 it
into position in the valve cover.
36
illustrations 37.9a, 37.9b,
37.10a
Note: Four-cylinder engines are equipped with a distributor/ess ignition system. The spark plug wires are connected directly to the ignition coils. The distributor used on the V6 engine is mounted at the rear of the block. 1 The spark plug wires should be checked at the recommended intervals and whenever
new spark plugs
are installed
in
the engine.
The wires should be inspected one at a time to prevent mixing up the order, which is 2
essential for proper engine operation.
plug.
Disconnect the plug wire from the spark To do this, grab the rubber boot, twist
and
the wire
4
pull the wire off.
itself,
Check
Do
not pull on
only on the rubber boot.
inside the boot for corrosion,
which will look like a white crusty powder. Push the wire and boot back onto the end of the spark plug. It should be a tight fit on the plug. If it isn't, remove the wire and use pliers
Evaporative emissions control
to carefully crimp the metal connector inside
the boot
them in a charcoal canister and then burn them during normal engine operation. The most common symptom of a fault in 2 the evaporative emissions system is a strong fuel odor in the engine compartment. If a fuel ter.
Refer to
and 37.10b
system check (every 30,000 miles or 24 months) The function of the evaporative emis1 sions control system is to draw fuel vapors from the gas tank and fuel system, store
odor
Spark plug wire, distributor cap and rotor check and replacement (every 30,000 miles or 24 months)
slightly
seated.
Inspect the rubber
7
37
3
are the same.
ommended
more coolant
cap screws
1
valve,
necessary.
the coolant
and the system
distributor
3
riorated hoses.
drain points.
10 In severe cases of contamination or clogging of the radiator, remove it (see Chapter 3) and reverse flush it. This involves let
37.9a Use a Tone head tool to remove the
the valve cover
in
the container under the
engine block drain plug(s), then remove the plug(s) from the block (see illustration). The four-cylinder engine has one block drain plug, while the V6 engine has two (one on
reservoir
located
Positive
After the coolant stops flowing out of
move
is
it
35
the radiator,
On four-cylinder engines the PCV
valve (arrow)
is
detected, inspect the charcoal canis-
The charcoal canister
is
mounted on a
until
it
fits
securely on the end of the
spark plug. Using a clean rag, wipe the entire length 5 of the wire to remove any built-up dirt and grease. Once the wire is clean, check for burns, cracks and other damage. Do not bend the wire excessively or pull the wire lengthwise - the conductor inside might break. 6 On four-cylinder engines, disconnect the wire from the coil pack. Again, pull only on the rubber boot. On V6 engines disconnect the
wire from the distributor at the rear of the engine. Check for corrosion and a tight fit in the same manner as the spark plug end.
Chapter
Tune-up and routine maintenance
1
37.10a Use a Torx head screwdriver to remove the distributor rotor
37.9b Inspect the inside of the cap for corrosion, carbon tracks and wear
©
1©
©
^^§fc.--
©
1-25
•
l^L^*
38.2 Tools required for changing
spark plugs 37.10b Check terminals for wear and burn marks
the distributor rotor
Replace the wire 7
one
at the coil
pack or
distributor.
1
at
2
a time, making sure they are securely
loose contacts (see illustrations). 10 Remove the retaining screws and pull
be the rotor off the distributor shaft (it may necessary to use a small screwdriver to genit for cracks and tly pry off the rotor). Examine carbon tracks (see illustrations). Replace defects the cap and rotor if any damage or practice to install a new wires cap and rotor whenever new spark plug new cap, are installed. When installing a at a remove the wires from the old cap one in the cap new the to them attach time and location - do not simultaneously 11
It
exact
is
common
same
remove
all
or the wires from the old cap may occur.
order mix-ups
firing
have
spark plug's porcelain insulator Torque wrench - Although not mandatory, using this tool is the best way to ensure the plugs are tightened
Ratchet
-
Standard hand tool
to
fit
the
spark plug socket
4
Depending on model and you may need special extensions and universal joints to reach one or more of the plugs Spark plug gap gauge - This gauge for checking the gap comes in a variety of styles. Make sure the gap for your
Extension
-
accessories,
5
engine
38
is
included
Spark plug replacement (every 50,000 miles or 36 months)
Refer to illustrations 38.2, 38.5a, 38.5b, and 38.10
38.6a, 38.6b, 38.8, 38.9 1
are noted.
This will
38.5a Spark plug manufacturers using a wire type gauge when checking the gap - if the wire does not slide between the electrodes with a slight drag, adjustment is required
recommend
properly
3
model. Wire sets are available pre-cut, with the rubber boots already installed. Remove
and replace the wires one at a time to avoid mix-ups in the firing order. Detach the distributor cap by removing 9 the cap retaining screws. Look inside it for cracks, carbon tracks and worn, burned or
-
special padding inside to protect the
Check the remaining spark plug wires
fastened at the ignition coil or distributor and the spark plug when the check is complete. are required, If new spark plug wires 8 purchase a set for your specific engine
Spark plug socket
The spark plugs are located
at the sides
of the engine. In most cases, the tools necessary for 2 spark plug replacement include a spark plug socket which fits onto a ratchet (spark plug
sockets are padded inside to prevent damage to the porcelain insulators on the new plugs), various extensions and a gap gauge to check and adjust the gaps on the new
plugs (see illustration).
A
special plug wire
removal tool is available for separating the wire boots from the spark plugs, and is a good idea on these models because the boots fit very tightly. A torque wrench should be used to tighten the new plugs. It is a good idea to allow the engine to cool before removing or installing the spark plugs. The best approach when replacing the 3 spark plugs is to purchase the new ones in advance, adjust them to che proper gap and replace the plugs one at a time. When buying the new spark plugs, be sure to obtain the correct plug type for your particular engine. The plug type can be found in the Specifications at the front of this Chapter and on the Emission Control Information label located under the hood. If these two sources list different plug types, consider the emission control label correct.
4 Allow the engine to cool completely before attempting to remove any of the plugs. While you are waiting for the engine to cool, check the new plugs for defects and adjust the gaps. Check the gap by inserting the proper 5
Chapter
1-26
1
Tune-up and routine maintenance
38.6a
When removing the
spark plug wires, boot (arrow)
pull
only on the
38.5b To change the gap, bend the side electrode only, as indicated by the arrows, and be very careful not to crack or chip the porcelain insulator surrounding the center electrode
When removing the spark plug wires, grasp the boot and use a twisting, pulling motion - a tool like this one makes
38.6b
38.8
A socket and extension will
be required to remove the spark plugs on these models
the job easier thickness gauge between the electrodes at
electrode
is
The gap
trode,
bend
between the electrodes should be the same as the one specified on the Emissions Control Information label. The wire should slide between the electrodes with a slight amount of drag. If the gap is incorrect, use the adjuster on the gauge body to bend the
Check
for
the
tip of
the plug (see illustration).
curved side electrode slightly until the proper gap is obtained (see illustration). If the side
not exactly over the center elecit
with the adjuster
cracks
in
until
it
the porcelain insulator
is. (if
any are found, the plug should not be used). 6 With the engine cool, remove the spark plug wire from one spark plug. Pull only on the boot at the end of the wire - do not pull on the wire. A plug wire removal tool should be used if available (see illustrations). 7 If compressed air is available, use it to
38.9 Apply a thin coat of anti-seize compound to the spark plug threads
blow any
dirt
or foreign material
the spark plug hole. will
also work.
A common
The idea here
away from
bicycle
is
pump
to eliminate
the possibility of debris falling into the cylin-
der as the spark plug is removed. 8 The spark plugs on these models are, for the most part, difficult to reach so a spark will be necessary (see Place the spark plug socket over the plug and remove it from the engine
plug socket extension illustration).
38.10 A length of 3/8-inch ID rubber hose will save time and prevent damaged threads when installing the spark plugs
2 3 1
1
Chapter
1-27
Tune-up and routine maintenance
1
39.2 Tools needed to check and adjust the ignition timing
Vacuum plugs - Vacuum hoses will, in most cases, have be disconnected and plugged. Molded plugs in various shapes and sizes are available for this
to
Inductive pick-up timing light - Flashes a bright concentrated beam of light when the number one spark plug fires. Connect the leads according to the instructions supplied with the light
Distributor
wrench
-
On some models,
for the distributor is difficult to reach
conventional wrench or socket.
A
the hold-down bolt
and
turn with a
special wrench
like this
must be used
by turning it in a counterclockwise direction. Compare the spark plug with the chart 9 shown on the inside back cover of this manual to get an indication of the general running condition of the engine. Before installing the new plugs, it is a good idea to apply a thin
coat of anti-seize compound to the threads (see illustration) Caution: Do not get antiseize on either the ground or center electrodes.
Thread one of the new plugs into the until you can no longer turn it with your fingers, then tighten it with a torque wrench (if available) or the ratchet. It's a good idea to slip a short length of rubber hose over the 10
hole
of the plug to use as a tool to thread it into place (see illustration). The hose will grip the plug well enough to turn it, but will
end
start to slip
if
the plug begins to cross-thread
Emissions Control Information label inside the engine compartment. The label contains important ignition timing specifications and the proper timing procedure for your specific vehicle. If the information on the emissions label is different from the information included in this Section, follow the procedure
on the
label.
At the specified intervals, or when the distributor has been removed, the ignition timing must be checked and adjusted if necessary. Tools required for this procedure include an inductive pick-up timing light and a distributor wrench (see illustration). Apply the parking brake and block the 3 wheels to prevent movement of the vehicle. The transmission must be in Park (automatic) 2
or Neutral (manual).
4
If
the
SERVICE ENGINE SOON
the hole - this will prevent damaged threads and the accompanying repair costs. Before pushing the spark plug wire onto 1 the end of the plug, inspect it following the procedures outlined in Section 37. 12 Attach the plug wire to the new spark plug, again using a twisting motion on the
on, don't proceed with the ignition
boot until it's seated on the spark plug. 13 Repeat the procedure for the remaining spark plugs, replacing them one at a time to prevent mixing up the spark plug wires.
tor
in
light is
check (see
for more information. The timing system must be bypassed
Chapter 6 5
prior to
checking the
ignition timing.
Locate
Refer to
illustration
adjustment. All vehicles 1
are
equipped with
With the engine off, connect a timing light accordance with the manufacturer's instruc-
Caution:
If
is
preferred).
an inductive pick-up timing
on and engine
off in short
bursts without starting the
order to bring the groove into a position where it can easily be cleaned and marked. Warning: Sfay clear of all moving engine components when the engine is turned over in this manner. 1 Use white soap-stone, chalk or paint to mark the groove in the pulley or flywheel. Also, put a mark on the timing scale corresponding to the number of degrees specified on the Vehicle Emission Control Information label in the engine compartment. 1 Aim the timing light at the marks, again being careful not to come into contact with moving parts. The marks made should in
appear stationary.
light
If
the marks are
correct.
If
in
align-
the marks are
aligned.
14
Shut
off
the engine and tighten the dis-
tributor bolt/nut, being careful not to
move
the distributor.
don't puncture the spark plug
15 to
and plug wire. If the insulation on the plug wire is damaged, the secondary voltage will jump to ground at the damaged point and the engine will misfire. Connect the light to the battery and the number one spark plug wire. The
is
not aligned, turn off the engine.
wire to attach the timing light pick-up lead. Instead use an adapter between the span\ plug
isn't available,
an
9 Locate the notched groove across the crankshaft pulley. It may be necessary to have an assistant temporarily turn the ignition
1 Loosen the hold-down bolt or nut at the base of the distributor. Loosen the bolt/nut only slightly, just enough to turn the distributor (see Chapter 5). 1 Now restart the engine and turn the distributor very slowly until the timing marks are
from the distributor. Before you check the timing, make sure 6 the idle speed is correct (see Chapter 4) and the engine is at normal operating tempera-
tions (an inductive timing light
identified Note: Models other than those timing above do not require periodic ignition
Locate the stamped-steel numbered
timing scale on the front cover of the engine.
connector. Don't unplug the harness connec-
in
39.2
the one at the front
ment, the timing
7
W
8
is
(driver's) side.
the single tan wire with a black stripe that's connected to the distributor and unplug the
ture.
39 Ignition timing check and adjustment (1994 and 1995 and Z V6 only) (every VIN 60,000 miles or 48 months)
number one spark plug on the left
of the engine
and recheck the timing sure the marks are still in alignment. Disconnect the timing light and recon-
Start the engine
make
16 nect any components which were disconnected for this procedure. 17 Reconnect the timing connector, then clear any computer trouble codes set during the ignition timing procedure (see Chapter 6).
1
_28
Chapter
1
Tune-up and routine maintenance
Notes
1
2A-1
Chapter 2 Part
A
2.2L four-cylinder engine Contents Section
Camshaft and
lifters -
removal, inspection and installation
CHECK ENGINE SOON Crankshaft front
oil
seal
See Chapter 6
light -
replacement
'.
Cylinder head
-
removal and
Drivebelt check, adjustment
8
See Chapter 2C
Cylinder compression check
10
installation
and replacement
Engine mounts - replacement Engine oil and filter change Engine overhaul - general information Engine - removal and installation Exhaust manifold - removal and installation Flywheel/driveplate - removal and installation
See Chapter
1
16
See Chapter 1 See Chapter 2C See Chapter 2C 7
14
General information
Section Intake manifold
1
1
removal and
6 12 13 15
installation
removal and installation Oil pump - removal and installation Rear main oil seal - replacement Repair operations possible with the engine Oil
pan
-
-
in
the vehicle
2
Rocker arms and pushrods - removal, inspection and installation 4 Spark plug replacement See Chapter 1 Timing chain cover, chain and sprockets - removal, inspection and installation 9 Valve cover - removal and installation 3 Valve springs, retainers and seals - replacement 5 Water pump - removal and installation See Chapter 3
Specifications
General Cylinder numbers (front-to-rear)
1-2-3-4
Firing order
1-3-4-2
Displacement
1
34 cubic inches
Camshaft Lobe lift (intake and exhaust) Through 1998 1999 and later
.-
0.288 inches 0.263 inches -868 to
.869 inches
Bearing journal diameter Bearing oil clearance Gear/thrust plate end clearance*
0.0015 to 0.0039 inch 0.0015 to 0.005 inch
Torque specifications
Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)
Camshaft sprocket bolt Camshaft thrust plate bolts
96 106
Crankshaft pulley bolts
37 77
1
Crankshaft pulley/hub-to-crankshaft bolt
ir|
- |b
1
s
Cylinder head bolts
Step
1
Long
AR ™
bolts
43
Short bolts
e te
Tighten an additional 90-degrees
p
39 38 33
Engine mount-to-engine bolts Engine mount through-bolts..... Engine mount bracket-to-frame bolts Exhaust manifold nuts
" 5 irHbs
Flywheel/driveplate-to-crankshaft bolts Intake manifold-to-cylinder head nuts/bolts
~1
Through 1998 1999 and later Lifter
guide retainer-to-block stud
pan bolts Oil pump-to-block bolt Rocker arm studs Rocker-arm nuts (bolts on 1999 and
ȣ
Oil
Timing chain cover bolts Valve cover bolts
^
|™
32 • later)
1Q)nW 97 h-ibs gg jn _ |bg
1
2 9^9N2 l
^J 11.12a Each of the two
lifter
guides
with a bolt
is
retained
in
the block
11.12b
Remove the
lifter
guides by pulling straight up
>
Chapter 2 Part
2A-10
1
The roller on the bottom of the must turn freely - check for wear and excessive play as well
11.16
1 1
.23b
1.20
-
Measure the camshaft lobes at their greatest dimension and write down the measurements
There are several ways to extract a lifter its bore. A special removal tool is available, but isn't always necessary. On newer engines without a lot of varnish buildup,
inspect the
likely),
block as well.
can often be removed with a small magnet or even with your fingers. A scribe can also be used to pull the lifter out of the bore. Caution: Don't use pliers of any type to remove a lifter unless you intend to replace it with a new one - they will damage the precision machined and hardened surface of the lifters
rendering it useless. Store the lifters in a clearly labeled box in
the
same
lifter
1 1
If
.23c
.
.
.
replace the
measurements
lifter
bores
lifters, it's if
in
the engine
the
good insurance
cam
is
to
worn, or vice-
versa.
Camshaft removal and inspection
bores.
Refer to
Refer to
illustration
15
Clean the
16
Check each
18
11.16
with solvent and dry them thoroughly without mixing them up. lifters
wear.
Check the
Make sure
wall, pushrod seat and score marks and uneven
lifter
roller for scuffing,
rollers for
illustrations 11.20, 11.23a,
11.23b
and 11.23c
Lifter inspection
wear and damage.
the rollers turn freely without excessive play (see illustration). If the lifter walls are damaged or worn (which isn't very
Refer to Section 9 for removal of the
front cover, timing chain
and sprockets.
19 Unbolt and remove the oil pump drive from the rear of the block. Disconnect and remove the camshaft position sensor (see Chapter 6).
20
Remove
the two bolts and the camshaft which side faces against the block (see illustration). 21 Carefully pull the camshaft out of the thrust plate, noting
to Specifications
and subtract the measurements of the lobe diameters dimension to obtain the lobe lift specification
the pushrod seats are worn,
lifters
measure the
camshaft journals and compare the
check the pushrod ends. 1 Even though roller lifters do not have the same cam-to-lifter wear pattern as conventional flat lifters, the manufacturer recommends replacing the cam and lifters as a set. Since the head must be removed to replace
worn or noisy
.23a Using a micrometer,
at their smallest
.
1
to insure their reinstallation
1 1
it can be reinstalled with the wear surface against the camshaft
from
14
plate bolts
note the orientation of the thrust
plate so
.
lifter,
2.2L four-cylinder engine
Remove the camshaft thrust
(arrows)
lifter
A
block. Caution: To avoid damage to the camshaft bearings as the lobes pass over them, support the camshaft near the block as it's
withdrawn.
22 After the camshaft has been removed from the engine, cleaned with solvent and dried, inspect the bearing journals for uneven wear, pitting and evidence of seizure. If the journals are
damaged, the bearing
inserts in
the block are probably damaged as well. Both the camshaft and bearings will have to
be replaced. Camshaft bearing replacement is a procedure that should be done in an automotive machine shop, and requires that the engine be removed from the vehicle and stripped. Refer to Part C of this Chapter for camshaft bearing measurement procedures. 23 If the journals are in good condition, measure the bearing journals with a micrometer to determine their sizes and whether or not they're out-of-round. Also measure the camshaft lobes (see illustrations). 24 Check the camshaft lobes for heat discoloration, score marks, chipped areas, pitting and uneven wear. If the lobes are in good
condition and
if
the lobe
lift
measurements
are as specified, the camshaft can be reused.
Chapter 2 Part
A
A large screwdriver can be used as shown to hold the driveplate from turning while the mounting bolts are
14.2
11.25 Lubricate the camshaft lobes and journals thoroughly with camshaft and lifter assembly lube before installation,
2
Installation
Remove
loosened or tightened
the bolts and detach the
oil
pan. Don't pry between the block and pan or
Refer to
illustration
11.25
damage
Lubricate the camshaft bearing journals cam lobes with camshaft and lifter
25
and
assembly lube (see illustration). 26 Slide the camshaft into the engine. Support the cam near the block and be careful not to scrape or nick the bearings. Install the camshaft thrust plate. Make sure you position the same side towards the block as originally installed. Tighten the bolts
27
to the torque listed
in this
cations. Reinstall the
oil
Chapter's Specifidrive in the
block (see illustration 11.19). If the used lifters are being reinstalled, installed in their original bores.
Coat new or used lifters with camshaft and lifter assembly lube. 29 Lubricate the bearing surfaces of the bores with engine oil. 30 Install the lifter(s) in the lifter bore(s). Note: Make sure the rollers are oriented to rotate parallel to the camshaft lobes. Install the lifter guides, and refer to Sec31 lifter
tion
32
for reinstalling the cylinder head. Refer to Section 9 for installation of the
10
timing chain and sprockets.
the pushrods, pushrod guides, rocker arms and rocker arm retaining nuts each (see Section 4). Caution: Make sure that the pair of lifters is on the base circle of closed) (that is. with both valves
33
Install
camshaft
before tightening the rocker arm bolts. the 34 Tighten the rocker arm nuts to Specifications. torque listed in this Chapter's remaining installation steps are the
35
stuck, dislodge
The
Oil
pan
-
is
removal and
installation
3
Use a scraper
to
remove
traces of
all
sealant from the pan and block, then clean the mating surfaces with lacquer thinner or
acetone.
Installation Install a new rubber 4
that the
Chapter 2, Part of the vehicle. Refer to engine removal procedures.
half-circle seal to
the rear main bearing cap. Apply a thin coat of RTV sealant to the ends of the rubber seal, where it fits into the main bearing cap. Apply
C
for
Installation To install the pump, turn the shaft so the gear tang mates with the slot on the lower end of the oil pump driveshaft. The oil pump should slide easily into place over the oil 5
pump
driveshaft lower retainer.
pull
off
it
Install
tighten
turn the tang until
pump
with the
6
and
it
the
7
Reinstall the
Add
timing chain cover.
leaks.
Install
the
oil
it
it's
pump mounting
to the torque listed
8
5
If
doesn't,
aligned
driveshaft slot.
a 3/16-inch wide by 1/8-inch thick bead of RTV sealant around the oil pan flange and the front circle of the pan, where it contacts the
in this
bolt
and
Chapter's
Specifications.
oil,
oil pan (see Section 12). run the engine and check for
pan and tighten the mount-
ing bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter's
Specifications. Start at the center of the
and work out toward the ends
in
a
pan
14
spiral pat-
Flywheel/driveplate
and
-
removal
installation
tern.
6
The remainder
of installation
of removal. Reinstall the engine
is
reverse
and lower the
Refer to
Install a new filter and add oil to the 7 engine, then start the engine and check for
illustration 14.2
Remove
the transmission (see Chapyour vehicle has a manual transmission, the pressure plate and clutch will also 1
vehicle.
ter 7).
If
have to be removed (see Chapter 8). Jam a large screwdriver in the starter ring gear or driveplate hole to keep the crankshaft from turning, then remove the mounting bolts (see illustration). Since it's fairly heavy, support the flywheel as the last bolt is removed. Warning: The ring gear teeth may be sharp - wear gloves to protect your
leaks.
2
13
Oil
pump - removal and
Removal 2
The manufacturer recommends engine out pan only be removed with the
new one. If the engine is being completely overhauled, install a new oil pump - don't reuse the original or attempt to rebuild it. Note: Check the oil pump pickup tube for looseness where it is pressed into the pump body. If it is loose it could cause engine oiling problems. Don't "fix" a loose one, replace the complete pump assembly.
reassembly.
installation
Removal 1
result
wood and a
with a block of
it
may
the pan
hammer. Note: Some of the fasteners are make a mark on the pan to indicate their location for
1
oil
If
studs. Before removing them,
reverse of removal.
12
to the sealing surfaces
leaks could develop.
oil
pump
28
they must be
and
2A-11
2.2L four-cylinder engine
hands.
Remove the oil pan (see Section 12). Remove the oil pump mounting bolt
from the main bearing cap. Detach the oil pump 3 assembly from the block. 4
If
the
pump
is
and
defective, replace
pick-up
back on the flywheel/drivefrom the crankshaft. On some models there may be a spacer-shim 3
Pull straight
plate to detach
between the driveplate and and automatic transmissionequipped models have a retainer ring installed
crankshaft, it
with a
it
Chapter 2 Part A 2.2L four-cylinder engine
2A-12
Use a large-diameter section of pipe to tap the seal in, or tap around the outer edge with a blunt drift to seat it squarely
oil seal out with a screwdriver - don't nick or scratch the crankshaft or the new seal may leak
15.5 Carefully pry the
in
between the bolts and the driveplate. On manual transmission equipped vehicles, check the pilot bushing and replace it if necessary (see Chapter 8). 4
Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to align the hole in the flywheel/drive-
5
dowel pin
plate with the
the crankshaft,
in
if
Use non-hardening thread-locking compound on the bolt threads and tighten them to the torque'listed in this Chapter's used.
Specifications
in
If equipped, remove the bolt (lower arrow) retaining the sheetmetal heat shield (upper arrow) to the motor mount
15.8
a criss-cross pattern.
8
Press the
the bore
new
J34924
tool no.
16.5
(if
seal into place with available).
must face toward the
The
seal
GM lip
front of the engine.
If
work the seal lip over the end of the crankshaft and tap the seal in with a hammer and blunt drift until it's seated squarely in the bore (see the special tool
isn't available, carefully
illustration).
9 10
Install
the flywheel or driveplate.
equipped with a manual transmission, reinstall the clutch disc and pressure plate. 1 Reinstall the transmission (see ChapIf
ter 7).
15
Rear main
Refer to
oil
seal
illustrations 15.5
The
-
replacement
and
15.8
main bearing oil seal can be replaced without removing the oil pan or 1
crankshaft.
2
Remove
the transmission (see Chap-
ter 7).
equipped with a manual transmission, remove the pressure plate and clutch disc (see Chapter 8). Remove the flywheel or driveplate (see 4 3
16
Engine mounts
-
replacement
rear
If
Refer to
illustrations 16.5
and 16.6
Warning: Improper lifting methods or devices are hazardous and could result in severe injury or death. DO NOT place any part of your body under the engine/transmission when it's supported only by a jack. Failure of the lifting device could result in serious injury
Section 14). Using a seal removal tool or a large 5 screwdriver, carefully pry the seal out of the block (see illustration). Don't scratch or nick the crankshaft in the process.
If the rubber mounts have hardened, 1 cracked or separated from the metal backing plates, they must be replaced. This operation may be carried out with the engine/transmis-
6 Clean the bore in the block and the seal contact surface on the crankshaft. Check the crankshaft surface for scratches and nicks that could damage the new seal lip and
cause
Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Caution: On models equipped with a Delco Loc II audio system, be sure the lockout feature is turned off before performing any procedure which requires disconnecting
crankshaft.
3
oil leaks. If the crankshaft is damaged, the only alternative is a new or different
7
Apply a
the seal
lip
coat of clean engine oil to and outer edge of the new seal. light
still in
the vehicle.
2
the battery. port
4
Raise the front of the vehicle and supsecurely on jackstands. Support the engine with a jack. Position
it
left
a
wood
oil
or death.
sion
16.6 Remove the engine mount throughbolt (arrow) - right mount shown,
mount similar
block between the jack head and the raise it enough to take the tension
pan and
mounts. equipped, remove the metal heat shield over the mount (see illustration). 6 Remove the engine mount through-bolt (see illustration). 7 Remove the mount-to-engine bolts and remove the mount. 8 Place the new mount in position. 9 Install the mount-to-engine bolts, lower the engine and install the through-bolt. Tighten all fasteners to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. 10 Remove the jackstands and lower the off the
5
If
vehicle.
2B-1
Chapter 2 Part B 4.3L V6 engine Contents Section Balance shaft
-
removal and
Camshaft and lifters and installation
-
removal, inspection
10
SERVICE ENGINE SOON
light
Crankshaft front
replacement
oil
See Chapter 2C
installation
seal
-
See Chapter 6 8
See Chapter 2C
Cylinder compression check Cylinder heads
removal and
-
Drivebelt check, adjustment
11
installation
See Chapter
and replacement
1
16 See Chapter 1 See Chapter 2C See Chapter 2C
Engine mounts - check and replacement Engine oil and filter change Engine overhaul - general information Engine - removal and installation Exhaust manifolds - removal and installation Flywheel/driveplate - removal and installation
7
14
Section General information Intake manifold - removal and installation Oil pan - removal and installation Oil pump - removal and installation Rear main oil seal - replacement Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle Rocker arms and pushrods - removal, inspection
and installation Spark plug replacement Timing chain cover, chain and sprockets - removal and installation Valve covers - removal and installation Valve springs, retainers and seals - replacement Water pump - removal and installation
4
See Chapter
3 5 See Chapter 3
General numbers
(front-to-rear) " 1 3 "5 2 -4 " 6 1-6-5-4-3-2
Left (driver's) side
Right side Firing order
262 cubic inches
Displacement
The blackened terminal shown on the distributor cap indicates the
Cylinder numbering and
Number One spark plug
distributor rotation
wire position
V6 engines
FIRING
ORDER
1-6-5-4-3-2 with HEI ignition system
FIRING
ORDER
1-6-5-4-3-2 with Enhanced Distributor Ignition (EDI)
system
124071 -2B-3PEC3
HAYNE3I
1
9
Specifications
Cylinder
1
6 12 13 15 2
-
Chapter 2 Part B 4.3LV6 engine
2B-2 Camshaft Bearing journal
Diameter Out-of-round
1.8677 to 1.8697 inches 0.001 inch
limit
Lobe lift 1994 and 1995
VINZ 0.234 inch 0.257 inch
Intake
Exhaust
VINW 0.288 inch 0.294 inch
Intake
Exhaust
1996 on Exhaust Endplay
0.2763 inch 0.2855 inch 0.001 to 0.009 inch
Torque specifications
Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)
Intake
Valve cover bolts
90 in-lbs 106 in-lbs
1994 and 1995 1996 on Intake manifold bolts
1994 and 1995 VIN Z (see illustration 6.29a) All, except bolt A
35
A
41
Lower Upper 1996 on
35 10
Bolt
VINW
26 in-lbs 106 in-lbs 132 in-lbs
Step 1 Step 2 Step 3 Exhaust manifold bolts/stud Step 1 Step 2 Cylinder head bolts 1994 and 1995 1996 on Step 1 (all bolts) Step 2
132 22
in-lbs
65 22
Short bolts
Tighten an additional 55-degrees
Medium
Tighten an additional 65-degrees
Long
bolts
Tighten an additional 75-degrees
bolts
Timing chain cover bolts
1994 1995 on Camshaft sprocket bolts Balance shaft retainer bolts
124 106
in-lbs in-lbs
21
106
in-lbs
Driven gear bolt
Stepl
15
Step 2 Drive gear retaining stud Rocker arm nuts (bolts on 2000 and Rocker arm stud (to cylinder head) Vibration
Hydraulic 6il
damper lifter
bolt
retainer bolts
later)
144 20 35 70 144
in-lbs
100 204
in-lbs
204 216
in-lbs
in-lbs
pan 1994 and 1995 Bolts
Nuts 1996 through 1998 Bolts
Nuts 1999 and Oil
Tighten an additional 35-degrees
pump
later
(all)
bolt
Rear main
oil
seal retainer bolts
Flywheel/driveplate bolts
in-lbs
in-lbs
18
65 132 75
in-lbs
7
Chapter 2 Part B 4.3LV6 engine
3.5 Disconnect the PCV valve (small arrow) and move the coil bracket (large arrow) - pull the heater hoses from their bracket at the rear
1
devoted to invehicle repair procedures for the 4.3L V6 engine. All information concerning engine removal and installation and engine block and cylinder head overhaul can be found in Part
C
is
of this Chapter.
the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) that is located on the forward edge of the dashboard driver's side.
The VIN
and remove
is visible
from
made
with the engine
in
the vehicle. The
intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, timing chain cover gasket, oil pan gasket (on 4WD models only), crankshaft oil seals and cylinder head gaskets are all accessible with the in
place.
components, such as oil pan and oil pump (on 4WD models only), the water pump, the starter motor, the alternator, the distributor and the fuel system components can be removed for repair with the Exterior engine
the intake and exhaust manifolds, the
engine
in
place.
Since the cylinder heads can be removed without pulling the engine, valve '
component
servicing can also be
the engine
accom-
outside the vehicle, through the windshield. If the eighth position in the alpha-numeric code engine. You could is a W, you have the VIN
the vehicle. Replacement of the timing chain and sprockets is also possible with the engine in the
X code. The following repair procedures are based on the assumption that the engine is installed in the vehicle. If the engine has been removed from the vehicle and mounted on a
vehicle.
W
also have a
stand,
Z code
many
of Chapter 2
or
of the steps outlined will
in
plished
with
Valve covers
in
removal and
installation
move the relay bracket bolted to the cowl, pull the spark plug wires from their clips, and disconnect the dipstick tube bracket at the cylinder head and wiggle the tube aside. 5 On 1995 models, disconnect the PCV valve at the valve cover, and unbolt and move the coil bracket (see illustration). On 1996 and later models, unclip and 6 move the spark plug wires, disconnect the vent tube, unbolt the wiring bracket at the alternator, and remove the bolt from the brace on the dipstick tube and wiggle the dipstick tube out of the way. The heater hoses can be moved aside without disconnecting them. 7 Remove the three valve cover bolts, then detach the cover from the cylinder head (see illustration). Note: If the cover is stuck to the cylinder head, bump one end with a block of wiring harness, unbolt and
wood and a hammer to jar it loose. If that doesn't work, try to slip a flexible putty knife between the cylinder head and cover to break the gasket seal. Don't pry at the cover-tohead joint or damage to the sealing surfaces may occur (leading
to oil leaks in the future).
this Part
not apply.
The Specifications included in this Part of Chapter 2 apply only to the procedures contained in this Part. Part C of Chapter 2 contains the Specifications necessary for cylinder head and engine block rebuilding.
Left side
Removal 1
Disconnect the negative cable from the
battery. Caution:
On models equipped
with a
Delco Loc II audio system, be sure the lockout feature is turned off before performing any procedure which requires disconnecting the battery.
Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle
2
Remove
Chapter
the
air
cleaner assembly (see
4).
Right side
Many major
On most models, the PCV valve (right arrow) and hose must be disconnected and moved for left valve cover removal the oil filler tube (left arrow) easily twists out of the valve cover
3.10
improve access to the engine as repairs are performed (see Chapter 1 1 if necessary).
engine
There are three different fuel systems used on the 4.3L V6 engines covered by this manual; refer to Chapter 4 for more detailed information. Some specifications and procedures in this Chapter vary by the specific version of this same basic engine. If there's any doubt as to which version you have, refer to
on the
bolts
the valve cover
If vacuum, exhaust, oil or coolant leaks develop, indicating a need for gasket or seal replacement, the repairs can generally be
General information This Part of Chapter 2
Remove the three
3.7
2B-3
repair operations
can be
accomplished without removing the engine from the vehicle. the Clean the engine compartment and type of presexterior of the engine with some done. It will sure washer before any work is out of make the job easier and help keep dirt the internal areas of the engine. Remove the hood, if necessary, to
Refer to
illustrations 3.5
and
3.
pick-up models, remove the EGR controller and EGR bracket, then tag and disconnect the vacuum lines in the way. On 1994 Blazer and Jimmy models, dis4 connect the PCV valve from the cover, disconnect the heater pipe at the intake manifold (refer to Chapter 1 for the coolant draining procedure), unclip and lay aside the 3
On 1994
Refer to
8
illustration
3.10
On 1994 and 1995
pick-up models,
remove the power brake booster brace, and disconnect the large vacuum hose to the booster.
9 On 1994 Blazer and Jimmy models, disconnect the heat tube to the air cleaner system, the PCV pipe, the rear alternator bracket and remove the spark plug wires from their clips. Disconnect and move aside the large vacuum hose to the brake booster, and the fuel lines at the TBI unit (refer to Chapter 4). 10 On 1995 Blazer and Jimmy models, disconnect and move aside the PCV hose (see illustration).
11
On
all
1996 and
later
models, discon-
aside the PCV valve and tube. Unbolt and set aside the air conditioning
nect and
move
compressor and bracket
(refer to
Chapter
3).
Chapter 2 Part B 4.3L V6 engine
2B-4
4.4 A perforated cardboard box can be used to store the pushrods to ensure that
4.10 Lube the ends of the pushrods and the valve stems with moly-base grease prior to installation of the rocker
they're installed in their original positions -
Moly-base grease applied to the adequate lubrication until oil pressure builds up when the engine is started 4.1 1
pivot balls will ensure
arms
note the label indicating the front of the engine
The remaining
18
DO NOT disconnect the hoses from the compressor. Warning: The air conditioning system is under high pressure. DO NOT disassemble any part of the system unless the system has been depressurized. On 1999 and later models, the compressor does not have to be removed, but disconnect and remove the EGR tube, and disconnect the electrical
connector at the coolant temperature sensor in the cylinder head. 12 Remove the three valve cover bolts, then detach the cover from the cylinder head. Note: If the cover is stuck to the cylinder head, bump one end with a block of wood and a hammer to jar it loose. If that doesn't work, try to slip a flexible putty knife between the cylinder head and cover to break the gasket seal. Don't pry at the cover-to-head joint or damage to the sealing surfaces may occur (leading to oil leaks in the future).
Installation 13 The mating surfaces of each cylinder head and valve cover must be perfectly clean
when the covers scraper to remove
are installed. all
Use a gasket
traces of sealant and old
gasket material, then clean the mating surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone. If there's sealant or
cover
oil
on the mating surfaces when the
is installed, oil
leaks
may develop.
14
Clean the mounting bolt threads with a die to remove any corrosion and restore damaged threads. Make sure the threaded holes in the cylinder head are clean - run a tap into them to remove corrosion and restore
damaged
threads.
15 The gaskets should be mated to the covers before the covers are installed. Apply a thin coat of RTV sealant to the cover flange, then position the gasket inside the cover lip
and allow the sealant to set up so the gasket adheres to the cover. 16
Carefully position the cover(s) on the cylinder head and install the bolts. 1 Tighten the bolts in three or four steps to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications.
installation
steps are the
reverse of removal.
19 oil
and check
Start the engine
leaks as the engine
warms
carefully for
up.
ones and use new pivot balls as well. On 2000 and later models, align the roller rocker arms with the rocker arm supports. 8 Inspect the pushrods for cracks and excessive wear at the ends. Roll each pushrod across a piece of plate glass to see if it's bent (if it wobbles, it's bent).
Rocker arms and pushrods removal, inspection and installation
Installation Refer to
Removal Refer to
9
illustration
with clean engine
4.4
and
Detach the valve cover(s) from the
1
cylin-
der head(s) (see Section 3). 2 Beginning at the front of one cylinder head, loosen and remove the rocker arm stud nuts. Store them separately in marked containers to ensure that they in
be reinstalled Note 1: If the
will
their original locations.
pushrods are the only items being removed, loosen each nut (models through 1998) just enough to allow the rocker arms to be rotated to the side so the pushrods can be lifted out. Note 2: On 2000 and later models, the rollerrocker arms are retained by a bolt, there are
no pivot
balls. Unlike the late four-cylinder
models with roller rockers, the V6 rockers ride on long rocker arm supports that bolt against the cylinder head casting protrusions. Lift off the rocker arms and pivot balls 3 and store them in the marked containers with the nuts (they must be reinstalled in their original locations).
4
Remove
separately to
up during
the pushrods and store them sure they don't get mixed
make
installation
(see illustration).
install
Make the
4.10 and 4.11
illustrations
Lubricate the lower end of each pushrod
them
oil
in
or moly-base grease
their original locations.
sure each pushrod seats completely
in
lifter.
1 Apply moly-base grease to the ends of the valve stems and the upper ends of the pushrods before positioning the rocker arms
over the studs (see illustration). 1 Set the rocker arms in place, then
install
the pivot balls and nuts. Apply moly-base grease to the pivot balls to prevent damage to the mating surfaces before engine oil pressure builds up (see illustration). Be sure to install each nut with the flat side against the pivot ball. Tighten the rocker-arm nuts to the
torque
12
listed in this
Chapter's Specifications. of the installation is the
The remainder
reverse of removal.
13 Start the engine and check for valve cover leaks and valvetrain noise.
Valve adjustment (1994 VIN Z engines only) Refer to
Note:
illustrations
4.14 and 4.17
On most models covered by
this
book,
there are no provisions for valve adjustment.
Inspection Check each rocker arm for wear, cracks and other damage, especially where the 5
pushrods and valve stems contact the rocker
arm
faces.
Make sure the hole at the pushrod end each rocker arm is open. Check each rocker arm pivot area for 7 wear, cracks and galling. If the rocker arms are worn or damaged, replace them with new
The rocker arm studs have a positive stop shoulder for the rocker arm nuts. After valve service, tighten the rocker arm nuts to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. Unless there have been machining operations
6
that significantly altered the valve lash, the
of
adjustment should be correct. Some 1994 VIN Z engines have press-in rocker-arm studs, without a positive stop,
and
require the
following valve adjustment procedure
when-
5
Chapter 2 Part B 4.3L V6 engine
4.14 Align the timing marks on the
damper and
front cover to find
4.17 Rotate each pushrod as the rockerarm nut is tightened until a slight drag is
TDC
felt
(zero lash), then tighten an additional
3/4 turn ever the rocker arms have been loosened or removed. Begin by setting the engine to TDC for 14 piston number 1 Top Dead Center (TDC) is .
the highest point
ton reaches as
it
in
the cylinder that each pis-
travels
up-and-down when
2B-5
Use compressed air to hold the valve closed when the springs are removed the air hose adapter (arrow) threads into the spark plug hole and accepts the hose from the compressor 5.4
the beginning of this Chapter). 1
9
Rotate the cran kshaft 360-degrees (TDC
number 4) and adjust the following rocker arms: number 2, 3 and 4 exhaust valves, and number 4, 5 and 6 intake valves.
the crankshaft turns. Each piston reaches
TDC on
the compression stroke and again on
the exhaust stroke, but TDC generally refers to piston position on the compression stroke.
The timing marks on the vibration damper installed on the front of the crankshaft are referenced to TDC (see illustration) and will line up at TDC for number 1 or number 4. 1 In order to bring any piston to TDC, the crankshaft must be turned using a large socket and breaker bar attached to the bolt threaded into the crankshaft damper. When looking at the front of the engine, normal crankshaft rotation is clockwise. Warning: Before beginning this procedure, be sure to place the transmission in Neutral and unplug the electrical connectors) at the distributor to disable the ignition system. 16 Turn the engine until the mark on the aligns with the "0"
mark on the timing tab while observing the rocker arms for the number 1 cylinder. If the valves were moving
damper
as the marks began to
align,
then this
is
TDC
number 4, and the engine must be turned one more revolution. 17 At TDC for number 1 piston, the following rocker arms can be adjusted: number 1 5, and 6 exhaust valves, and number 1 2 and 3 intake valves. To adjust the valves, tighten To the rocker arm nut 3/4 turn past zero lash.
for
,
,
find zero lash, rotate the
pushrod
(of
the valve
being adjusted) between two fingers while tightening the rocker-arm nut (see illustrapushrod is tion). When a slight drag on the tighten the just felt, all lash is removed, cenrocker-arm nut an additional 3/4 turn to plunger in its travel. has been 18 After the number one piston compression positioned at TDC on the
ter the hydraulic
lifter
TDC for any of the remaining the cylinders can be located by turning followcrankshaft 120-degrees at a time and stroke,
Specifications at ing the firing order (see the
5
Valve springs, retainers and seals -
replacement
Refer to
illustrations 5.4, 5.7a, 5.7b, 5.8,
5.15
and 5. 16 Note: Broken valve springs and defective valve stem seals can be replaced without removing the cylinder heads. Two special tools and a compressed air source are normally required to perform this operation, so read through this Section carefully and rent or
buy the
tools before beginning the job.
Remove the valve cover from the cylin1 der head (see Section 3). If all of the valve stem seals are being replaced, remove both valve covers.
Remove the spark
plug from the cylinder which has the defective component. If all of the valve stem seals are being replaced, all of 2
the spark plugs should be removed. Turn the crankshaft until the piston 3
in the top dead center on the compression stroke (see Section 4). If you are replacing all of the valve stem seals, begin
affected cylinder
with cylinder
is
at
number
and work on the
1
valves for one cylinder at a time. cylinder-to-cylinder following the
sequence
(1
-6-5-4-3-2).
Move from firing
Each cylinder
order in
the
20-degrees of crankshaft rotation (clockwise) from the previous one. Thread an adapter into the spark plug 4 hole (see illustration) and connect an air hose from a compressed air source to it. Most auto parts stores can supply the air hose adapter. Note: Many cylinder compression gauges utilize a screw-in fitting that may work with your air hose quick-disconnect fitting. firing
5
order
is 1
Remove the nut,
pivot ball
and rocker arm and pull out
for the valve with the defective part
the pushrod (see Section
4).
If
all
the valve
Once the spring is depressed, the keepers can be removed with a small magnet or needle-nose pliers (a magnet is preferred to prevent dropping the keepers 5.7a
stem seals are being replaced, all of the rocker arms and pushrods should be removed. 6 Apply compressed air to the cylinder. The valves should be held in place by the air pressure. Warning: If the cylinder isn't exactly at TDC, air pressure may cause the engine to rotate. Do not leave a socket or wrench on the balancer bolt;
damage
or personal injury
may
result.
Stuff shop rags into the cylinder head holes above and below the valves to prevent parts and tools from falling into the engine, then use a valve spring compressor to com-
7
press the spring/damper assembly. Remove the keepers with small needle-nose pliers or a magnet (see illustration). Note: A couple of different types of tools are available for
compressing the valve springs with the cylinder head in place. One type, shown here, grips the lower spring coils and presses on the retainer as the knob is turned, while the other type utilizes the rocker arm stud and nut for leverage (see illustration). Both types work very well, although the lever type is usually less
expensive.
Chapter 2 Part B 4.3LV6 engine
2B-6
1
9M,
*3^ 5.8 The O-ring seal (arrow) should be replaced with a new one each time the keepers and retainer are removed
5.7b The stamped steel lever-type valve spring compressor is usually less expensive that the type that grips the
Make
sure the O-ring seal under the seated in the groove and not twisted before installing the keepers
5.15
retainer
is
spring coils cylinder
Remove
8
the spring retainer,
oil
shield
and valve spring assembly (there is both an inner and outer valve spring for each valve the inner is called a spring damper), then remove the valve stem O-ring seal and the umbrella-type guide seal (intake valves only).
The O-ring seal will most likely be hardened and will probably break when removed, so plan on installing a new one each time the original is removed (see illustration). Note: If pressure fails to hold the valve in the closed position during this operation, the valve face and/or seat is probably damaged.
air
If
so,
the cylinder
removed
head
will
have
to
be
for additional repair operations.
Reapply
tor.
in
valve spring assembly and
carefully install the
new
O-ring seal
lower groove of the valve stem. isn't
twisted
- it
must
lie
the sure
in
Make
perfectly
Inspect the valve stem for damage. Rotate the valve in the guide and check the
movement, which would
indicate that the valve
is
bent.
Move
the valve up-and-down in the guide and make sure it does not bind. If the valve stem binds, either the valve is bent or the guide is damaged. In either case, the
ter
5
1).
Disconnect the
upper radiator and
heater hoses at the front of the engine.
6
Remove
the two rear braces from the
drivebelt tensioner.
7
Unbolt and
move
the emission relays
bracket.
8
Remove
the spark plug wires,
coil
and
Chapters 1 and 5). Note: The should be turned to TDC (see
distributor (see
engine
Section 4) for the number 1 piston. Mark the relationship of the distributor rotor to the distributor housing before removing the distribu-
Removal
Disconnect the fuel lines at the TBI unit 4). Warning: Trie fuel system is under pressure - do not disconnect the lines without following the safety procedures in Chapter 4. 10 Remove the accelerator, cruise control and TV cables from the bracket(s) on the manifold (see Chapter 4). 1 Detach the vacuum brake booster pipe from the manifold. 12 Label and disconnect the fuel lines, vacuum hoses/pipes and wires at the manifold and TBI unit (see Chapter 4). Disconnect and move the EGR hose. 13 14 Loosen the manifold mounting bolts in 1/4-turn increments until they can be removed by hand. Note: Some of the manifold fasteners are studs and will require a deep socket to remove. The manifold will probably be stuck to the cylinder heads and force may be required to break the gasket seal. A large prybar can be positioned under the cast-in lug near the left front mounting
Disconnect the negative cable from the On models equipped with a Delco Loc II audio system, be sure the lockout feature is turned off before performing any procedure which requires disconnecting
have been removed first! Caution: Don'f pry between the block and manifold or the cylinder heads and manifold or damage to the gasket sealing surfaces may
the battery.
occur, leading to
16 Position the keepers in the upper groove. Apply a small dab of grease to the inside of each keeper to hold it in place if necessary (see illustration). Remove the pressure from the spring tool and make sure the keepers are seated. 1 Disconnect the air hose and remove the adapter from the spark plug hole 18 Install the rocker arm(s) and pushrod(s) 4).
1
Install
the valve cover(s) (see Section
20
Install
the spark plug(s) and hook up the
3).
wire(s).
Start and run the engine, then check for leaks and unusual sounds coming from the valve cover area.
21
oil
6
Intake manifold
-
removal and
installation
1
5.16 Apply a small
dab
of grease to
each
keeper as shown here before installation will
Remove the upper fan shroud. Remove the air cleaner assembly (see 3 Chapter 4). 4 Drain the cooling system (see Chap-
flat
the groove (see illustration).
(see Section
it
1994 and 1995 VIN Z models 2
tor.
10
11
for
air
Compress the
the seal
pressure.
for eccentric
have to be removed
pressure to the cylinder to closed position, then remove the tape or rubber band from the valve stem. 13 Lubricate the valve stem with engine oil and install a new umbrella-type guide seal (intake valve only). On 1999 and later models, there are seals on all valve guides. Replacement seals for the exhaust are colored red or brown, while intake seals are black. 14 Install the spring/damper assembly and shield in position over the valve. 15 Install the valve spring retainer or rota12
the
end
will
retain the valve in the
9 Wrap a rubber band or tape around the top of the valve stem so the valve won't fall into the combustion chamber, then release air
head
repair.
-
hold them in place on the valve stem as the spring is released
battery. Caution:
9
(see Chapter
bolt to pry
make
sure
up the all
front of the manifold, but
bolts
vacuum
leaks.
5
Chapter 2 Part B 4.3L V6 engine
-'
2B-7
/
^
Indlcotor
Lamp
0.8 439 Pink
as
0.8
539
Pink
0.8
439
Pink
539
Pink
Ignition
Ignition
Powertroln Control
Module (PCM)
5 Malta
Solid State
•witch
(OoMd
0.45 Volte
with Ignition on) 1.01
VUta
0«ygen
f> Senaor Ground
v_ 0.8
448
White/
as 800 Tan
Block
0.8
White/
as 800 Tan
Block
f V
v 0.8
0.8
White/
Tan
800
Black
Data Line Connector (DLC)
Typical
V6 engine
Throttle
Body
Injection
system wiring diagram
|
(1
of 3)
24071 -12-fHAYNES
12-22
Chapter 12 Chassis
I
Hot ot
oil
tlmoo
|
I
Hot with
Ignition
electrical
system
ON
Oronga Fuel Injoctor
Fuel Injector
A|2
#1
( T
ft i.1
1 1
i
1
i
J
S 20 Amp
S 20 tn Amp Ami
Blot
V '
Indicator* on
|
J
Service
Instrum Instrument Clutter Printed Circuit
Engine Soon'