Chevrolet & GMC Pick-Ups Haynes Repair Manual 1563924269, 9781563924262

Citation preview

Chevrolet & GM

Pick-ups

oe

1988 thru 1998 co All Models 1999 and 2000- 07/4 Classic o 2WD and 4WD All gasoline engines 0 Includes Suburban (1992 thru 1999), Full-size Blazer & Jimmy (1992 thru 1994), Tahoe & Yukon (1995 thru 1999)

Haynes Repair Manual Based on a complete teardown ana |rebuild. 4

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Includes essential information for today’s mére complex vehicles .

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Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2022 with funding from Kahle/Austin Foundation

httos://archive.org/details/chevroletgmcpickOOOOfreu_f5kO

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Chevrolet

& GMC

Pick-ups

Automotive

Repair

Manual by Ken Freund and John H Haynes Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers a

Models covered: Chevrolet and GMC pick-ups 1988 through 2000

Suburban, Blazer, Jimmy, Tahoe and Yukon 1992 through 2000 Be ‘

.

Two- and four-wheel drive versions — Does not include diesel or heavy-duty (C3HD) model information ND

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Th,

A

AUTOMOTIVE ROCESSORNES ASSOCIATION

Haynes Publishing Group Sparkford Nr Yeovil Somerset BA22 7JJ England Haynes North America, Inc

861 Lawrence Drive Newbury Park

California 91320 USA

MEMBER

a

Acknowledgements

'

We are grateful to Dominik Scharding for providing the 454 SS pick-up seen in certain photos. Wiring diagrams and certain illustrations originated exclusively for Haynes North America, Inc. by Valley Forge Technical Information Services. Technical writers who contributed to this project include Mike Stubblefield, Jon LaCourse, Jeff Killingsworth and Robert Maddox.

© Haynes North America, Inc. 1997, 1998, 2001 With permission from J.H. Haynes & Co. Ltd.

A book in the Haynes Automotive Repair Manual Series Mt

TAMERS

MORESETT A OP? Mich

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Printed in the U.S.A.

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 56392 426 9 ee ea nt

_ Library of Congress Control Number:

2001089936

While every attempt is made to ensure that the information in this manual is correct, no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given. 01-304

Contents

_

ona

Introductory pages

a

About this manual Introduction to the full-size Chevrolet and GMC pick-ups’ Suburban, Blazer and Jimmy

0-5 0-5

vi

Vehicle identification numbers

0-6

ane

Buying parts

0-8

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

0-8

Booster battery (jump) starting

0-16

Jacking and towing Automotive chemicals and lubricants

0-17 0-18

Conversion factors Safety first! Troubleshooting

:

¥ *

iy,

O19. 5 0-20 0-21.

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

Chapter 2 Engines

PartA

Chapter 2

PartB

1-1

| 2A-1

General engine overhaul procedures

2B-1

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

4 ‘4

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems Chapter 6 Emissions control systems

Chapter 7

PartA

Manual transmission

Chapter 7

PartB

Automatic transmission

Chapter 7

Part C

Transfer case

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveline

Chapter 9 Brakes

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

Chapter 11 Body

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

Wiring diagrams Index

|

o \

Haynes mechanic, author and photographer with Chevrolet 1500 pick-up

0-5

About this manual Its purpose The’ purpose of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done, even if you choose to have it done by a dealer service department or a repair shop; it provides information and procedures for routine maintenance and servicing; and it offers diagnostic and repair procedures to follow when trouble

occurs. We hope you use the manual to tackle the work yourself. For many simpler jobs, doing it yourself may be quicker than arranging an appointment to get the vehicle into a shop and making the trips to leave it and pick it up. More importantly, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the expense the shop

must pass on to you to cover its labor and overhead costs. An added benefit is the sense of satisfaction and accomplishment that you feel after doing the job yourself.

Using the manual The manual is divided into Chapters. Each Chapter is divided into numbered Sections, which are headed in bold type between horizontal lines. Each Section consists of consecutively numbered paragraphs. At the beginning of each numbered Section you will be referred to any illustrations which apply to the procedures in that Section. The reference numbers used in illustration captions pinpoint the pertinent Section and the Step within that Section. That is, illustration 3.2 means the illustration refers to Section 3 and Step (or paragraph) 2 within

that Section. Procedures, once described in the text,

are not normally repeated. When it’s necessary to refer to another Chapter, the reference will be given as Chapter and Section number. Cross references given without use of the word “Chapter” apply to Sections. and/or paragraphs in the same Chapter. For example, “see Section 8” means in the same Chapter. References to the left or right side of the vehicle assume you are sitting in the driver’s seat, facing forward. Even though we have prepared this manual with extreme care, neither the publisher nor the author can accept responsibility for any errors in, or omissions from, the infor-

mation given.

NOTE A Note provides information necessary to properly complete a procedure or information which will make the procedure easier to understand.

CAUTION A Caution provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the Caution is found. Not heeding a Caution can result in damage to the assembly

being worked on.

WARNING A Warning provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the Warning is found. Not heeding a Warning can result in personal injury. ?

Introduction to the full-size

Chevrolet and GMC pick-ups The 1988 and later full-size (C and K model) Chevrolet and GMC pick-up trucks have a conventional front engine/rear wheel drive layout. Four-wheel drive (4WD) is available on some models. The V6 and V8 engines equipped in these vehicles use Throttle Body Injection (TBI) on early models (1988 through 1995) or Central Sequential Fuel Injection (Central SFI)

from the engine is transferred to either a four or five-speed manual or three or four-speed

els. Conventional shock absorbers are used at both the front and rear.

automatic transmission. A transfer case and driveshaft are used to drive the front driveaxles on 4WD models. The suspension is independent at the front. On 2WD models, coi! springs are used at the front. On 4WD models, torsion bars are used instead of coil springs. The solid rear

The steering box is mounted to the left of the engine and is connected to the steer-

on late models (1996 through 2000). Power

axle is suspended by leaf springs on all mod-

Antilock Braking System (ABS).

ing arms through a series of rods. assist is standard on all models.

Power

The brakes are disc at the front and drums at the rear, with power assist standard,. Most models are equipped with an

'

¢ di ications

are

a

continuing

and

cized process in vehicle manufacturwv ‘spare parts manuals and lists are

when the vehicle was manufactured, model year and the body style.

the

Certification label The Certification label is attached to the rear edge of the left door. The label contains the name of the manufacturer, the month and year of production, the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the certification statement.

Id on ‘the driver’s side of the vehicle (see ; ony The VIN also appears on the

This label is located inside the glove door. It lists the VIN number,

wheelbase, paint number, options and other

The vehicle identification number (VIN) is visible from outside the

vehicle through the driver’s side of the windshield

Engine identification number The

engine

ID number

is normally

located on a machined surface at the front edge of the block, under the right cylinder head. It may also be located at the left rear edge of the block, above the oil filter (see illustration).

Service parts identification label compartment

information specific to the vehicle to which it’s attached. Always refer to this label when ~ ordering parts

Automatic transmission ‘identification number

Ne

The ID number on automatic transmis-

sions is located

on the right side, either

V8 engine number locations (arrow)

i

Vehicle identification numbers

omy ine EA APS

rhe! bal

ual

V6 engine number locations (arrow)

stamped into a machined surface above the pan or on a metal tag (see illustrations).

Transfer case identification number (4WD models)

normally stamped into the top surface of the , right axle tube.

Vehicle Emissions Control

This number is on a metal tag attached to the rear case half or the extension housing.

Rear axle identification number The rear axle identification number

Location of the ID number on the four-speed automatic transmission

Information (VECI) label This label is normally located on top of the radiator fan shroud. It contains information on the emissions control equipment installed on the vehicle as well as tune-up specifications.

is

Location of the automatic transmission identification number

0-8

Buying parts Replacement parts are available from many sources, which generally fall into one of two categories - authorized dealer parts departments and independent retail auto parts stores. Our advice concerning these parts is as follows: Retail auto parts stores: Good auto parts stores will stock frequently needed components which wear out relatively fast, such as clutch components, exhaust systems, brake parts, tune-up parts, etc. These

stores often supply new or reconditioned

parts on an exchange basis, which can save a considerable amount of money. Discount auto parts stores are often very good places to buy materials and parts needed for general

unique to the vehicle and not generally available elsewhere (Such as major engine parts, transmission parts, trim pieces, etc.).

vehicle maintenance

still covered under warranty, be sure that any replacement parts purchased - regardless of the source - do not invalidate the warranty! To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, have engine and chassis numbers available and, if possible, take the old parts

such as oil, grease, fil-

ters, spark plugs, belts, touch-up paint, bulbs, etc. They also usually sell tools and general accessories, have convenient hours, charge lower prices and can often be found’ not far from home. Authorized dealer parts department: This is the best source for parts which are

Warranty information: \f the vehicle is

along for positive identification.

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Maintenance techniques There are a number of techniques involved in maintenance and repair that will be referred to throughout this manual. Application of these techniques will enable the home mechanic to be more efficient, better organized and capable of performing the various tasks properly, which will ensure that the repair job is thorough and complete.

Fasteners Fasteners are nuts, bolts, studs and screws used to hold two or more parts together. There are a few things to keep in mind when working with fasteners. Almost all of them use a locking device of some type, either a lockwasher, locknut, locking tab or thread adhesive. All threaded fasteners should be clean and straight, with undamaged threads and undamaged corners on the

hex head where the wrench fits. Develop the

habit of replacing all damaged nuts and bolts with new ones. Special locknuts with nylon or fiber inserts can only be used once. If they are removed, they lose their locking ability and must be replaced with new ones. Rusted nuts and bolts should be treated with a penetrating fluid to ease removal and prevent breakage. Some mechanics use turpentine in a spout-type oil can, which works quite well. After applying the rust penetrant, let it work for a few minutes before trying to loosen the nut or bolt. Badly rusted fasteners may have to be chiseled or sawed off or removed with a special nut breaker, available at tool stores. lf a bolt or stud breaks off in an assembly, it can be drilled and removed with a special tool commonly available for this purpose. Most automotive machine shops can perform

this task, as well as other repair procedures, such as the repair of threaded holes that

have been stripped out. Flat washers and lockwashers, when removed from an assembly, should always be replaced exactly as removed. Replace any damaged washers with new ones. Never use a lockwasher on any soft metal surface (such as aluminum), thin sheet metal or plastic.

Fastener sizes For a number of reasons, automobile manufacturers are making wider and wider use of metric fasteners. Therefore, it is important to be able to tell the difference between standard (sometimes called U.S. or SAE) and metric hardware, since they cannot be interchanged. All bolts, whether standard or metric, are sized according to diameter, thread pitch and

0-9

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities length. For example, a standard 1/2 - 13 x 1 inch and is 1 inch long. An M12 - 1.75 x 25 metric bolt is 12 mm in diameter, has a thread

pitch of 1.75 mm

(the distance

greater the strength of the nut. Metric studs are also marked on their ends according to property class (grade). Larger studs are numbered (the same as metric bolts), while smaller studs carry a geometric code to denote grade. It should be noted that many fasteners, especially Grades 0 through 2, have no distinguishing marks on them. When such is the case, the only way to determine whether it is standard or metric is to measure the thread pitch or compare it to a known fastener of the

dard bolts have slashes radiating out from the center of the head to denote the grade or strength of the bolt, which is an indication of the amount of torque that can be applied to it. The greater the number of slashes, the greater the strength of the bolt. Grades 0 through 5 are commonly used on automobiles. Metric bolts have a property class (grade) number, rather than a slash, molded into their heads to indicate bolt strength. In

bolt is 1/2 inch in diameter, has 13 threads per

between

threads) and is 25 mm long. The two bolts are nearly identical, and easily confused, but they are not interchangeable. In addition to the differences in diameter, thread pitch and length, metric and standard bolts can also be distinguished by examining the bolt heads. To begin with, the distance across the flats on a standard bolt head is measured in inches, while the same dimension on a metric bolt is sized in millimeters (the same is true for nuts). As a result, a standard wrench should not be used on a metric bolt anda metric wrench should not be used on a standard bolt. Also, most stan-

this case, the higher the number, the stronger

the bolt. Property class numbers 8.8, 9.8 and 10.9 are commonly used on automobiles. Strength markings can also be used to distinguish standard hex nuts from metric hex nuts. Many standard nuts have dots

same size. Standard fasteners are often referred to as SAE, as opposed to metric. However, it should be noted that SAE technically refers to a non-metric fine thread fastener only. Coarse thread non-metric fasteners are referred to as USS sizes.

stamped into one side, while metric nuts are

marked with a number. The greater the number of dots, or the higher the number, the

Grade 5

Grade 1 or 2

Grade 8

Bolt strength marking (standard/SAE/USS; bottom - metric)

Grade

Identification

Grade

Identification

Hex Nut Property Class 9

Hex Nut Grade 5

ss Arabic 9

Crm, Hex Nut

Grade 8

Peo,

@ Hex Nut

(OH):ie 6 Dots

Standard hex nut - strength markings

ee

Property

Class 10

Arabic 40 Metric hex nut strength markings

—

—

-

Class

Class

Class

10.9

9.8

8.8

Metric stud strength markings OM

00-1 HAYNES

\

0-10

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities |

Since fasteners of the same size (both standard and metric) may have different strength ratings, be sure to reinstall any bolts, studs or nuts removed from your vehicle in their original locations. Also, when replacing a fastener with a new one, make sure that the new one has a strength rating equal to or greater than the original. j

ponent such as a nut or bolt). Overtightening the fastener can weaken it and cause it to break, while undertightening can cause it to eventually come

loose.

Bolts, screws

and

studs, depending on the material they are made of and their thread diameters, have specific torque values, many of which are

noted in the Specifications at the beginning of each Chapter. Be sure to follow the torque

Tightening sequences and procedures Most threaded fasteners should be tightened to a specific torque value (torque is the twisting force applied to a threaded com-

recommendations closely. For fasteners not assigned a specific torque, a general torque value chart is presented here as a guide. These torque values are for. dry (unlubricated) fasteners threaded into steel or cast iron (not

Metric thread sizes i=Gee

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Nis Geese sirwae lg A AVA ee Neetiptoe ee eee te Ge Fea 2 a engl! eo, eR Wis tidiek tated bee bay ee

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Ul lieth nce yr RO ne aeer, SE ET abe RP Pr Se li eee a ave

aluminum). As was previously mentioned, the size and grade of a fastener determine the amount of torque that can safely be applied to it. The figures listed here are approximate for Grade 2 and Grade 3 fasteners. Higher grades can tolerate higher torque values. Fasteners laid out in a pattern, such as cylinder head bolts, oil pan bolts, differential cover bolts, etc., must be loosened or tightened in sequence to avoid warping the component. This sequence will normally be shown in the appropriate Chapter. If a specific pattern is not given, the following procedures can be used to prevent warping.

Ft-Ibs

Nm

6 to 9

9to 12 19to 28 38 to 54 68 to 96 109 to 154

14 28 50 80

to to to to

21 40 71 140

Pipe thread sizes VES RIOT 2k oe em aeRO 19 ech ay ie eS SRE LRSS aS coe hove es a ht (RIOR OAD RR RMR ce op 5 WLR et eta? Dy aan RR pe UGE ea

5to8 12 to 18 22 to 33 25 to 35

30 to 44 34 to 47

U.S. thread sizes rE Wc NPGRyd") oh AER, ach ERMC Hse la tee BAG ub ean eee cor vst aly certain BAG Oa eee re ae ae da NES iy 5 ORO NRE he RANE BM COR SS cPLEeSe DMRS (aS Relic ee 8 er i te ge RN TG SUA ae eee hie. ct pie st GUS. ea tee yee Serena eG Vigne S/S UNG LS er ra fi Ne ee

6 to 9 12 to 18 14 to 20 22 to 32 27 to 38 40 to 55 40 to 60 55 to 80

9 to 12 17 to 24 19 to 27 30 to 43 37 to 51 55 to 74 55 to 81 75 to 108

7 to 10 17 to 24

00-2 HAYNES

Standard (SAE and USS) bolt dimensions/grade marks G L T D

Grade marks (bolt strength) Length (in inches) Thread pitch (number of threads per inch) Nominal diameter (in inches)

Metric bolt dimensions/grade marks Property class (bolt strength)

Length (in millimeters) Thread pitch (distance between threads in millimeters) DU Oy4r Diameter

0-11

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Micrometer set

Initially, the bolts assembled finger-tight should be tightened one criss-cross or diagonal

or nuts should be only. Next, they full turn each, in a pattern. After each one has been tightened one full turn, return to the first one and tighten them all one-half

turn, following the same pattern. Finally, tighten each of them one-quarter turn at a time until each fastener has been tightened to the proper torque. To loosen and remove the fasteners, the procedure would be reversed.

Component disassembly Component disassembly should be done with care and purpose to help ensure that the parts go back together properly. Always keep track of the sequence in which parts are removed. Make note of special characteristics or marks on parts that can be installed more than one way, such as a grooved thrust washer on a shaft. It is a good idea to lay the disassembled parts out on a clean surface in the order that they were removed. It may also be helpful to make sketches or take instant photos of components before removal. When removing fasteners from a component, keep track of their locations. Sometimes threading a bolt back in a part, or putting the washers and nut back on a stud, can prevent mix-ups later. If nuts and bolts cannot be’ returned to their original locations, they should be kept in a compartmented box or a series of small boxes. A cupcake or muffin tin is ideal for this purpose, since each cavity can hold the bolts and nuts from a particular area (i.e. oil pan bolts, valve cover bolts, engine mount bolts, etc.). A pan of this type is especially helpful when working on assemblies with very small parts, such as the carburetor,

alternator, valve train or interior dash and trim pieces. The cavities can be marked with paint or tape to identify the contents. Whenever wiring looms, harnesses or

connectors are separated, it is a good idea to identify the two halves with numbered pieces of masking tape so they can be easily reconnected.

Dial indicator set

Gasket sealing surfaces

Hose removal tips

Throughout any vehicle, gaskets are used to seal the mating surfaces between two parts and keep lubricants, fluids, vacuum or pressure contained in an assembly.

Warning: /f the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, do not disconnect any of the A/C hoses without first having the system depressurized by a dealer service department or a service station.

Many times these gaskets are coated with a liquid or paste-type gasket sealing compound before assembly. Age, heat and pressure can sometimes cause the two parts to stick together so tightly that they are very difficult to separate. Often, the assembly can be loosened by striking it with a soft-face hammer near the mating surfaces. A regular hammer can be used if a block of wood is placed between the hammer and the part. Do not hammer on cast parts or parts that could be easily damaged. With any particularly stubborn part, always recheck to make sure that every fastener has been removed. Avoid using a screwdriver or bar to pry apart an assembly, as they can easily mar the gasket sealing surfaces of the parts, which must remain smooth. If prying is absolutely necessary, use an old broom handle, but keep in mind that extra clean up will be necessary if the wood splinters. After the parts are separated, the old gasket must be carefully scraped off and the gasket surfaces cleaned. Stubborn gasket material can be soaked with rust penetrant or treated with a special chemical to soften it so it can be easily scraped off. A scraper can be fashioned from a piece of copper tubing by flattening and sharpening one end. Copper is recommended because it is usually softer than the surfaces to be scraped, which reduces the chance of gouging the part.

Some gaskets can be removed with a wire brush, but regardless of the method used, the mating surfaces must be left clean and smooth. If for some reason the gasket surface is gouged, then a gasket sealer thick enough to fill scratches will have to be used

during reassembly of the components. For most applications, a non-drying (or semi-drying) gasket sealer should be used.

Hose removal precautions closely parallel gasket removal precautions. Avoid scratching or gouging the surface that the hose mates against or the connection may leak. This is especially true for radiator hoses. Because of various chemical reactions, the rubber in hoses can bond itself to the metal spigot that the hose fits over. To remove a hose, first loosen the hose clamps that secure it to the spigot. Then, with slip-joint pliers, grab the hose at the clamp and rotate it around the spigot. Work it back and forth until it is completely free, then pull it off. Silicone or other lubricants will ease removal if ~

they can be applied between the hose and

~

the outside of the spigot. Apply the same lubricant to the inside ofthe hose and the outside of the spigot to simplify installation. As a last resort (and if the hose is to be replaced with a new one anyway), the rubber can be slit with a knife and the hose peeled from the spigot. If this must be done, be careful that the metal connection is not damaged.

If a hose clamp is broken or damaged, do not reuse it. Wire-type clamps usually weaken with age, so it is a good idea to replace them with screw-type clamps whenever a hose is removed.

Tools A selection

of good tools is a basic

requirement for anyone who plans to maintain and repair his or her own vehicle. For the owner who has few tools, the initial invest-

ment might seem high, but when compared to the spiraling costs of professional auto maintenance and repair, it is a wise one.

To help the owner decide which tools are needed to perform the tasks detailed in this manual, the following tool lists are

offered:

Maintenance

and

minor

repair,

0-12

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Dial caliper

Timing light

Damper/steering wheel puller

Repair/overhaul and Special. The newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the maintenance and minor repair tool kit, which is adequate for the simpler jobs performed on a vehicle. Then, as confidence and experience grow, the owner can tackle more difficult tasks, buying additional tools as they are needed.

General purpose puller

Eventually the basic kit will be expanded into the repair and overhaul tool set. Over a period of time, the experienced do-it-yourselfer will assemble a tool set complete enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the special category when it is

felt that the expense is justified by the frequency of use.

Hydraulic lifter removal tool

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit : | The tools in this list should be considered the minimum required for performance of routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair work. We recommend the purchase of combination wrenches (box-end and open-

0-13

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Valve spring compressor

Piston ring groove cleaning tool Ring removal/installation tool

Ridge reamer end combined

in one wrench). While more

expensive than. open end wrenches, they offer the advantages of both types of wrench. Combination wrench set (1/4-inch to 1 inch or 6 mm to 19 mm) Adjustable wrench, 8 inch Spark plug wrench with rubber insert Spark plug gap adjusting tool Feeler gauge set Brake bleeder wrench -Standard screwdriver (5/16-inch x 6 inch) Phillips screwdriver (No. 2 x 6 inch) Combination pliers - 6 inch Hacksaw and assortment of blades

light and combination tachometer/dwell meter. Although they are included in the list of special tools, it is mentioned here because they are absolutely necessary for tuning most vehicles properly.

Repair and overhaul tool set These tools are essential for anyone who plans to perform major repairs and are in addition to those in the maintenance and minor repair tool kit. Included is a comprehensive set of sockets which, though expensive, are invaluable because of their versatility, especially when various extensions and drives are available. We recommend the 1/2-

Tire pressure gauge

inch drive over the 3/8-inch drive. Although

Grease gun Oil can Fine emery cloth Wire brush Battery post and cable cleaning tool

the larger drive is bulky and more expensive, it has the capacity of accepting a very wide range of large sockets. Ideally, however, the mechanic should have a 3/8-inch drive set

Oil filter wrench ° Funnel (medium size) Safety goggles Jackstands (2) Drain pan Note: /f basic tune-ups are going to be part of routine maintenance, it will be necessary to purchase a good quality stroboscopic timing

and a 1/2-inch drive set. Socket set(s)

Reversible ratchet Extension - 10 inch Universal joint

Torque wrench (same size drive as sockets) t Ball peen hammer - 8 ounce Soft-face hammer (plastic/rubber)

‘Ring compressor

Standard screwdriver (1/4-inch x 6 inch) Standard screwdriver (stubby 5/16-inch) Phillips screwdriver (No. 3 x 8 inch) Phillips screwdriver (stubby - No. 2)

Pliers - vise grip

;

Pliers - lineman’s

Pliers ~ needle nose

Pliers - snap-ring (internal and external) Cold chisel - 1/2-inch

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities a

a

Brake hold-down spring tool

Cylinder hone

ae

al

Scribe Scraper (made from flattened copper tubing) Centerpunch

Wire brush (large) Jackstands (second set) Jack (scissor or hydraulic type) Note: Another too! which is often useful is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of 3/8-inch and a set of good quality drill bits.

Pin punches (1/16, 1/8, 3/16-inch)

Steel rule/straightedge - 12 inch

_ Allen wrench set (1/8 to 3/8-inch or

Special tools

4mm to 10 mm) A selection of files

The tools in this list include those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturer’s instructions. Unless these tools will be used frequently, it is not very economical to purchase many of them. A consideration would be to split the cost and use between yourself and a friend or friends. In addition, most of these tools can be obtained from a tool rental shop on a temporary basis. This list primarily contains only those tools and instruments widely available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer for distribution to dealer service departments. Occasionally, references to the manufacturer’s special tools are included in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the special tool is offered. How-

ae

Clutch plate alignment tool

ever, sometimes there is no alternative to their use. Where this is the case, and the tool cannot be purchased or borrowed, the work should be turned over to the dealer service department or an automotive repair shop.

Valve spring compressor Piston ring groove cleaning tool . Piston ring compressor Piston ring installation tool Cylinder compression gauge Cylinder ridge reamer Cylinder surfacing hone Cylinder bore gauge Micrometers and/or dial calipers

Hydraulic lifter removal tool Balljoint separator Universal-type puller Impact screwdriver Dial indicator set Stroboscopic timing light (inductive pick-up) Hand operated vacuum/pressure pump Tachometer/dwell meter ; Universal electrical multimeter Cable hoist Brake spring removal and installation tools Floor jack

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Buying tools For the do-it-yourselfer who is just starting to get involved in vehicle maintenance and repair, there are a number of options available when purchasing tools. If maintenance and minor repair is the extent of the work to be done, the purchase of individual

tools is satisfactory. If, on the other hand,

extensive work is planned, it would be a good idea to purchase a modest tool set from:one of the large retail chain stores. A set can usually be bought at a substantial savings over the individual tool prices, and they often come with a tool box. As additional tools are needed, add-on sets, individual tools and a larger tool box can be purchased to expand the tool selection. Building a tool set gradually allows the cost of the tools to be spread over a longer period of time and gives the mechanic the freedom to choose only those tools that will actually be used. Tool stores will often be the only source of some of the special tools that are needed, but regardless of where tools are bought, try to avoid cheap ones, especially when buying screwdrivers and sockets, because they won't last very long. The expense involved in replacing cheap tools will eventually be greater than the initial cost of quality tools.

Care and maintenance of tools Good tools are expensive, so it makes sense to treat them with respect. Keep them

clean and in usable condition and store them properly when not in use. Always wipe off any dirt, grease or metal chips before putting them away. Never leave tools lying around in the work area. Upon completion of a job, always check closely under the hood for tools that may have been left there so they won’t get lost during a test drive. Some tools, such as screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches and sockets, can be hung ona panel mounted on the garage or workshop wall, while others should be kept in a tool box or tray. Measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc. must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged by weather or impact from other tools. When tools are used with care and

stored properly, they will last a very long time. Even with the best of care, though, tools will wear out if used frequently. When a tool is damaged or worn out, replace it. Subsequent jobs will be safer and more enjoyable if you do.

How to repair damaged threads Sometimes, the internal threads of a nut

or bolt hole can become stripped, usually from overtightening. Stripping threads is an all-too-common occurrence, especially when ‘working with aluminum parts, because aluminum is so soft that it easily strips out. Usually, external or internal threads are only partially stripped. After they’ve been cleaned up with a tap or die, they’ll still work.

Sometimes, however, threads are badly damaged. When this happens, you’ve got three choices: 1) Drill and tap the hole to the next suitable oversize and install a larger diameter

bolt, screw or stud.

:

2) Drill and tap the hole to accept a threaded plug, then drill and tap the plug

to the original screw size. You can also buy a plug already threaded to the original size. Then you simply drill a hole to the specified size, then run the threaded plug into the hole with a bolt and jam nut. Once the plug is fully seated, remove the jam nut and bolt. 3) The third method uses a patented thread repair kit like Heli-Coil or Slimsert. These easy-to-use kits are designed to repair damaged threads in‘ straightthrough holes and blind holes. Both are available as kits which can handle a variety of sizes and thread patterns. Drill the hole, then tap it with the special included tap. Install the Heli-Coil and the hole is back to its original diameter and thread pitch. : Regardless of which method you use, be sure to proceed calmly and carefully. A little impatience or carelessness during one of these relatively simple procedures can ruin your whole day’s work and cost you a bundle if you wreck an expensive part.

0-15

Working facilities Not to be overlooked when discussing tools is the workshop. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some sort of suitable work area is essential. It is understood, and appreciated, that many home mechanics do not have a good workshop or garage available, and end up removing an engine or doing major repairs outside. It is recommended, however, that the overhaul or repair be completed under the cover of a roof. A clean, flat workbench or table of comfortable working height is an absolute necessity. The workbench should be equipped with a vise that has a jaw opening of at least four inches. As mentioned previously, some clean, dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as the lubricants, fluids, cleaning solvents, etc. which soon become necessary.

Sometimes waste oil and fluids, drained from the engine or cooling system during normal maintenance or repairs, present a disposal problem. To avoid pouring them on the ground or into a sewage system, pour the used fluids into large containers, seal them with caps and take them to an authorized disposal site or recycling center. Plastic jugs, such as old antifreeze containers, are ideal for this purpose. Always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean rags available. Old towels are excellent for mopping up spills. Many mechanics use rolls of paper towels for most work because they are readily available and disposable. To help keep the area under the vehicle clean, a large cardboard box can be cut open and flattened to protect the garage or shop floor. Whenever working over a painted surface, such as when leaning over a fender to service something under the hood, always cover it with an old blanket or bedspread to protect the finish. Vinyl covered pads, made especially for this purpose, are available at auto parts stores.

0-16

Booster battery (jump) starting Observe the following precautions when using a booster battery to start a vehicle:

Dead battery

Booster battery

a) Before connecting the booster battery, make sure the ignition switch is in the Off position. b) Turn off the lights, heater and other electrical loads. c) Your eyes should be shielded. Safety goggles are a good idea. d) Make sure the booster battery is the same voltage as the dead one in the vehicle. e) The two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other. f) Make sure the transmission is in Neutral (manual transaxle) or Park (automatic transaxle). g) If the booster battery is not a maintenance-free type, remove the vent caps and lay a cloth over the vent holes. Connect the red jumper cable to the positive (+) terminals of each

battery. Connect one end of the black cable to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery. The other end of this cable should be connected to a good ground on the engine block (see illustration). Make sure the cable will not come into contact with the fan, drivebelts or other moving parts of the engine. Start the engine using the booster battery, then, with the engine running at idle speed, disconnect the jumper cables in the reverse order of connection.

—

00-3 HAYNES

Make the booster battery cable connections in the numerical order shown (note that the negative cable of the booster battery is NOT attached to the negative terminal of the dead battery)

Anti-theft audio system General information 1 Some of these models are equipped with THEFTLOCK audio systems, which include an anti-theft feature that will render the stereo

inoperative if stolen. If the power source to the stereo is cut with the anti-theft feature activated, the stereo will be inoperative. Even if the power source is immediately re-connected, the stereo will not function. 2 _ If your vehicle is equipped with this anti-theft system, do not disconnect the battery, remove the stereo or disconnect related components unless you have either turned off the feature or have the individual ID (code) number for the stereo.

Disabling the anti-theft feature 3 Press the stereo’s 1 and 4 buttons at the same time for five seconds with the ignition on and the radio power off. The display will show SEC, indicating the unit is in the secure mode (anti-theft feature enabled). 4 Press the MIN button. The display will show “O00”. 5 Press the MIN button until the last two numbers are the same as your secret code. 6 Press HR until the first one or two numbers displayed match your code. The numbers will be displayed as entered. 7 Press AM/FM. If the display shows “__ _” you have successfully

disabled the anti-theft feature. If SEC is displayed, the code you entered was incorrect and the anti-theft feature is still enabled.

Unlocking the stereo after a power loss 8

When the power is restored to the stereo, the stereo won’t turn on

and LOC will appear on the display. Enter your ID code as follows,

_ without pausing more than 15 seconds between Steps. 9 Turn the ignition switch to ON, but leave the stereo off. 10 Press the MIN button. “O00” should display. 11. Press the HR button to make the last two numbers match your code, then release the button. 12 Press the HR button until the first one or two numbers match your code. 13. Press AM/FM. SEC should appear, indicating the stereo is unlocked. If LOC appears, the numbers you entered were not correct and the stereo is still inoperative. ‘ 14 You should have the code written down in a secure place, for use in unlocking the THEFTLOCK feature. Note: When performing the above procedures, you are allowed only eight tries. After that, the system shuts down for an hour, with the radio displaying “INOP.” At the end of that period, you have another three tries, after which you will have to bring the vehicle to your dealer for activation.

0-17

| Jacking and towing Jacking The

jack

supplied

with

the

vehicle

should only be used for raising the vehicle when changing a tire or placing jackstands under the frame. Warning: Never work under the vehicle or start the engine while the jack is being used as the only means of support. The vehicle should be on level ground with the hazard flashers on, the wheels blocked, the parking brake applied and the transmission in Park (automatic) or Reverse (manual). If a tire is being changed, loosen the lug nuts one-half turn and leave them in place until the wheel is raised off the ground. Make sure no one is in the vehicle as it’s being raised with the jack. Place the jack under the vehicle suspension in the indicated position (see illustra-

Front jack location

tions). Operate the jack with a slow, smooth motion until the wheel is raised off the

ground. Remove the lug nuts; pull off the wheel, install the spare and thread the lug nuts back on with the beveled sides facing in. Tighten them snugly, but wait until the vehicle is lowered to tighten them completely. Lower the vehicle, remove the jack and tighten the nuts (if loosened or removed) in a criss-cross pattern. If possible, tighten them with a torque wrench (see Chapter 1 for the torque figures). If you don’t have access to a torque wrench, have the nuts checked by a service station or repair shop as soon as possible.

Towing These vehicles can be towed

with all

four wheels on the ground, provided speeds don’t exceed 35 mph and the distance is less than 50 miles. Equipment specifically designed for towing should be used and must be attached to the main structural members of the vehicle, not the bumper or brackets. Safety is a major consideration when towing and all applicable state and local laws must be obeyed. A safety chain must be used at all times While towing, the parking brake should be released and the transmission and transfer case (if equipped) must be in Neutral. The steering must be unlocked (ignition switch in the Off position). Remember that power

steering and power brakes will not work with the engine off.

0-18

Automotive chemicals and lubricants A number of automotive chemicals and lubricants are available for use during vehicle maintenance and repair. They include a wide variety of products ranging from cleaning solvents and degreasers to lubricants and protective sprays for rubber, plastic and vinyl.

in disc brake equipped vehicles. It usually contains molybdenum disulfide (moly), which is a dry-type lubricant. White grease is a heavy grease for metal-to-metal applications where water is a problem. White grease stays soft under both low and high temperatures (usually from -100

Cleaners

to +190-degrees F), and will not wash off or

Carburetor cleaner and choke cleaner is a strong solvent for gum, varnish and car-

dilute in the presence of water. Assembly lube is a special extreme

bon. Most carburetor cleaners leave a drytype lubricant film which will not harden or gum up. Because of this film it is not recommended for use on electrical components. Brake system cleaner is used to remove grease and brake fluid from the brake system, where clean surfaces are absolutely necessary. It leaves no residue and often eliminates brake squeal caused by contaminants. Electrical cleaner removes oxidation, corrosion and carbon deposits from electrical contacts, restoring full current flow. It can also be used to clean spark plugs, carburetor jets, voltage regulators and other parts where an oil-free surface is desired. Demoisturants remove water and moisture from electrical components such as alternators, voltage regulators, electrical connectors and fuse blocks. They are non-conductive, non-corrosive and non-flammable. Degreasers are heavy-duty solvents used to remove grease from the outside of the engine and from chassis components. They can be sprayed or brushed on and, depending on the type, are rinsed off either with water or solvent.

pressure lubricant, usually containing moly, used to lubricate high-load parts (such as

Lubricants Motor oil is the lubricant formulated for use in engines. It normally contains a wide variety of additives to prevent corrosion and reduce foaming and wear. Motor oil comes in various weights (viscosity ratings) from 0 to 50. The recommended weight of the oil depends on the season, temperature and the demands on the engine. Light oil is used in cold climates and under light load conditions. Heavy oil is used in hot climates and where high loads are encountered. Multi-viscosity oils are designed to have characteristics of both light and heavy oils and are available in a number of weights from 5W-20 to 20W-50. Gear oil is designed to be used in differentials, manual transmissions and other areas where high-temperature lubrication is required. Chassis and wheel bearing grease is a heavy grease used where increased loads and friction are encountered, such as for wheel bearings, balljoints, tie-rod ends and universal joints. High-temperature wheel bearing grease is designed to withstand the extreme temperatures encountered by wheel bearings

main and rod bearings and cam lobes) for initial start-up of a new engine. The assembly lube lubricates the parts without being squeezed out or washed away until the ‘ engine oiling system begins to function. Silicone lubricants are used to protect rubber, plastic, vinyl and nylon parts. Graphite lubricants are used where oils cannot be used due to contamination problems, such as in locks. The dry graphite will lubricate metal parts while remaining uncontaminated by dirt, water, oil or acids. It is electrically conductive and will not foul electrical contacts in locks such as the ignition switch. Moly penetrants |oosen and lubricate frozen, rusted and corroded fasteners and prevent future rusting or freezing. Heat-sink grease is a special electrically non-conductive grease that is used for mounting electronic ignition modules where it is essential that heat is transferred away from the module.

Sealants RTV sealant is one of the most widely used gasket compounds. Made from silicone, RTV is air curing, it seals, bonds, waterproofs, fills surface irregularities,

remains flexible, doesn’t shrink, is relatively easy to remove, and is used as a supplementary sealer with almost all low and medium

temperature gaskets. Anaerobic sealant is much like RTV in that it can be used either to seal gaskets or to form gaskets by itself. It remains flexible, is solvent resistant and fills surface imperfec-.

tions. The difference between an anaerobic sealant and an RTV-type sealant is in the curing. RTV curés when exposed to air, while an anaerobic sealant cures only in the absence of air. This means that an anaerobic sealant cures only after the assembly of parts, seal-

ing them together. Thread and pipe sealant is used for sealing hydraulic and pneumatic fittings and vacuum lines. It is usually made from a Teflon compound, and comes in a spray, a paint-on liquid and as a wrap-around tape.

Chemicals Anti-seize compound prevents seizing,

galling, cold welding, rust and corrosion in

fasteners. High-temperature anti-seize, usually made with copper and graphite lubricants, is used for exhaust system and exhaust manifold bolts. Anaerobic locking compounds are used to keep fasteners from vibrating or working loose and cure only after installation, in the absence of air. Medium strength locking compound is used for small nuts, bolts and screws that may be removed later. Highstrength locking compound is for large nuts, bolts and studs which aren’t removed on a regular basis.

Oil additives range from viscosity index improvers to chemical treatments that claim to reduce internal engine friction. It should be noted that most oil manufacturers caution against using additives with their oils. Gas additives perform several functions, depending on their chemical makeup. They usually contain solvents that help dissolve gum and varnish that build up on carburetor, fuel injection and intake parts. They also serve to break down carbon deposits that form on the inside surfaces of the combustion chambers. Some additives contain upper cylinder lubricants for valves and piston rings, and others contain chemicals to remove condensation from the gas tank.

Miscellaneous Brake fluid is specially formulated hydraulic fluid that can withstand the heat and pressure encountered in brake systems. Care must be taken so this fluid does not come in contact with painted surfaces or plastics. An opened container should always be resealed to prevent contamination by water or dirt. Weatherstrip adhesive is used to bond weatherstripping around doors, windows and trunk lids. It is sometimes used to attach trim pieces.

Undercoating is a petroleum-based, tar-like substance that is designed to protect metal surfaces on the underside of the vehicle from corrosion. It also acts as a sounddeadening agent by insulating the bottom of the vehicle. Waxes and polishes are used to help protect painted and plated surfaces from the weather. Different types of paint may require the use of different types of wax and polish. Some polishes utilize a chemical or abrasive cleaner to help remove the top layer of oxidized (dull) paint on older vehicles. In recent Years many non-wax polishes that contain a wide variety of chemicals such as polymers and silicones have been introduced. These non-wax polishes are usually easier to apply and last longer than conventional waxes and polishes.

0-19

Conversion

factors

Length (distance) Inches (in)

X

Feet (ft) Miles

X 0.305 X 1.609

:

25.4

=Millimetres (mm)

X

0.0394

= Metres (m) = Kilometres (km)

X X

3.281 0.621

=Inches (in)

=Feet (ft) =Miles

Volume (capacity) Cubic inches (cu in; in’)

X 16.387

= Cubic centimetres (cc; cm*)

X

0.061

=Cubic inches (cu in; in*)

Imperial pints (Imp pt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) US quarts (US qt) Imperial gallons (Imp. gal) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) US gallons (US gal)

xX. 0.568 X12. X 1.201 X 0.946 X 4.546 X 1.201 X 3.785

= Litres (|) = Litres (|) =US quarts (US qt) = Litres (|) = Litres (I) =US gallons (US gal) = Litres (|)

Xx x X X Xx X X

1.76 0.88 0.833 1.057. 0.22 0.833 0.264

= Imperial pints (Imp pt) = Imperial quarts (Imp qt) =Imperial quarts (Imp qt) =US quarts (US qt) = Imperial gallons (Imp gal) =Imperial gallons (Imp gal) =US gallons (US gal)

X X

28.35 0.454

=Grams (g) = Kilograms (kg)

X X

0.035 2.205

=Ounces (oz) = Pounds (lb)

X X X

0.278 4.448 0.1.

=Newtons (N) = Newtons (N) =Kilograms-force (kgf; kg)

x X Xx

3.6 0.225

= Ounces-force (ozf; 0z) = Pounds-force (Ibf; Ib) = Newtons (N)

X

0.070

= Kilograms-force per square

X

14.223

= Pounds-force per square inch

X

14.696

= Pounds-force per square inch

Mass (weight)

;

Ounces (oz) Pounds (Ib)

Force Ounces-force (ozf; 0z) Pounds-force (Ibf;. Ib) Newtons (N)

9.81

Pressure - Pounds-force per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)

centimetre (kgf/cm?; kg/cm?) X

0.068

=Atmospheres

Pounds-force

X

0.069

= Bars

Xx

14.5

= Pounds-force per square inch

‘Pounds-force per square inch

X

6.895

= Kilopascals (kPa)

X

0.145

= Pounds-force per square inch

Kilopascals (kPa)

X

0.01

= Kilograms-force per square

Xx

98.1

X.

1.152

= Kilograms-force centimetre

X

0.868

= Pounds-force inches

Xx

8.85

(Ibf in; Ib in) = Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; Ib in) = Pounds-force inches

(psi; Ibf/in?; 1b/in?)

per square inch

(atm)

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)

Pounds-force per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)

(psi; Ibf/in?: Ib/in?)

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)

centimetre (kgf/cm?; kg/cm?)

(psi; Ibf/in?; |b/in?)

= Kilopascals (kPa)

Torque (moment of force) Pounds-force

inches

(Ibf in; Ib in) Pounds-force inches

X

0.113

(kgf cm; kg cm) =Newton metres (Nm)

(Ibf in; Ib in) Pounds-force inches

X

0.083

= Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft)

x

12

Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft)

X

0.138

=Kilograms-force

X

7.233

= Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft: Ib ft)

Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft) Néwton metres (Nm)

xX 1.356 X 0.102

xX xX ,

0.738 9.804

= Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft) =Newton metres (Nm)

X

0.2961

= Inches mercury

X

0.0394

= Inches mercury

X

0.0013.

=Horsepower (hp)

X

0.621

=Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

X' X

2.825 2.352

=Miles per gallon, Imperial (mpg) =Miles per gallon, US (mpg)

(Ibf in; Ib in)

(Ibf in; Ib in) metres

(kgf m; kg m) =Newton metres (Nm) =Kilograms-force metres

(kgf m; kg m)

Vacuum Inches mercury (in. Hg)

X

3.377

Inches mercury (in. Hg)

X

25.4

= Kilopascals (kPa)

X

745.7

=Watts (W)

X

1.609

= Kilometres per hour (km/hr; kph)

Miles per gallon, Imperial (mpg) X Miles per gallon, US (mpg) -X

0.354 0.425

= Kilometres per litre (km/I) = Kilometres per litre (km/|)

=Millimeters mercury (mm Hg)

Power Horsepower (hp)

Velocity (speed) Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

Fuel consumption*

Temperature Degrees Fahrenheit

. =

(°C x 1.8) +32

Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; °C)

*/t is common practice to convert from miles per gallon (mpg) to litres/100 kilometres (1/100km), where mpg (Imperial) x.l/100 km = 282 and mpg (US) x 1/100 km = 235

= (°F - 32) x 0.56

0-20

Safety fi rst! Regardless of how enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job at hand, take the time to ensure that your safety is not jeopardized. A moment’s lack of attention can result in an accident, as can failure to observe certain simple safety precautions. The possibility of an accident will always exist, and the following points should not be considered a comprehensive list of all dangers. Rather, they are intended to make you aware of the risks and to encourage’ a’safety conscious approach to all work you carry out on your vehicle.

Essential DOs and DON’Ts DON’T rely on a jack when working under the vehicle. Always use approved jackstands to support the weight of the vehicle and place them under, the recommended lift or support points. : DON’T attempt to loosen extremely tight fasteners (i.e. wheel lug nuts) while the vehicle is on a jack - it may fall. DON’T start the engine without first making sure that the transmission is in Neutral (or Park where applicable) and the parking brake

is set. DON’T remove the radiator cap from a hot cooling system - let it cool or cover it with a cloth and release the pressure gradually. DON’T attempt to drain the engine oil until you are sure it has cooled to the point that it will not burn you. DON’T touch any part of the engine or exhaust system until it has cooled sufficiently to avoid burns. DON’T siphon toxic liquids such as gasoline, antifreeze and brake fluid by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin. DON’T inhale brake lining dust - it is potentially hazardous (see Asbestos below). DON’T allow spilled oil or grease to remain on the floor - wipe it up before someone slips on it. DON’T use loose fitting wrenches or other tools which may slip and cause injury. DON’T push on wrenches when loosening or tightening nuts or bolts. Always try to pull the wrench toward you. If the situation calls for pushing the wrench away, push with an open

etc. and when working under a vehicle. DO keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving parts. DO make sure that any hoist used has a safe working load rating adequate for the job. DO get someone to check on you periodically when working alone on a vehicle. DO carry out work in a logical sequence and make sure that everything is correctly assembled and tightened. DO keep chemicals and fluids tightly capped and out of the reach of children and pets. DO remember that your vehicle’s safety affects that of yourself and others. If in doubt on any point, get professional advice.

carefully. Never use materials from unmarked containers. Never run the engine in an enclosed space, such as a garage. Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide, which is extremely poisonous. If you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air, or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the work area. If you are fortunate enough to have the use of an inspection pit, never drain or pour gasoline and never run the engine while the vehicle is over the pit. The fumes, being heavier than air, will concentrate in the pit with possibly lethal results.

Asbestos

Never create a spark or allow a bare light bulb near a battery. They normally give off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive. Always disconnect the battery ground (-) cable at the battery before working on the fuel or electrical systems. If possible, loosen the filler caps or cover when charging the battery from an external source (this does not apply to sealed or maintenance-free batteries). Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery may burst. Take care when adding water to a non maintenance-free battery and when carrying a battery. The electrolyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be allowed to contact clothing or skin. Always wear eye protection when cleaning the battery to prevent the caustic deposits from entering your eyes.

Certain friction, insulating, sealing, and

other products - such as brake linings, brake bands, clutch linings, torque converters, gaskets, etc. - may contain asbestos. Extreme care must be taken to avoid inhalation of dust from such products, since it is hazardous to health. If in doubt, assume that they do contain asbestos.

Fire Remember at all times that gasoline is highly. flammable. Never smoke or have any kind of open flame around when working on a vehicle. But the risk does not end there. A spark caused by an electrical short circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, or even by static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite gasoline vapors, which in a confined space are highly explosive. Do not, under any circumstances, use gasoline for cleaning parts. Use an approved safety solvent. Always disconnect the battery ground (-) cable at the battery before working on any part of the fuel system or electrical system. Never risk spilling fuel on a hot engine or exhaust component. It is strongly recommended that a fire extinguisher suitable for

use on fuel and electrical fires be kept handy in the garage or workshop at all times. Never

try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with

The battery

Household current When using an electric power tool, inspection light, etc., which operates on household current, always make sure that the tool is correctly connected to its plug and that, where necessary, it is properly grounded. Do not use such items in damp conditions and, again, do not create a spark or apply excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel vapor.

water.

Secondary ignition system

hand to avoid scraped knuckles if the wrench

Fumes

voltage

should slip. ; DON’T attempt to lift a heavy component alone - get someone to help you. DON’T rush or take unsafe shortcuts to finish a job. DON’T allow children or animals in-or around the vehicle while you are working on it. DO wear eye protection when using power tools such as a drill, sander, bench grinder,

Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconsciousness and even death if inhaled to any extent. Gasoline vapor falls into this category, as do the vapors from some cleaning solvents. Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated area. When using cleaning fluids and sol-

touching certain parts of the ignition system (such as the spark plug wires) when the engine is running or being cranked, particularly if components are damp or the insulation is defective. In the case of an electronic ignition system, the secondary system voltage is much higher and could prove fatal.

vents, read the instructions on the container

A severe electric shock can result from

0-21

Troubleshooting Contents

Symptom

Section

Engine and performance

Symptom

Section

WEL LOA O ss icanciiavsd civ Gesseoipdtptevninisideicd tiech sige ae eee

47

1K

General shift mechanism

48

SPaRet TIAN ICHIESbeAS Ni cates. sxaednesiosschesasssunesswncscevdibsevacascscsvesnseedee

42

Transmission slips, shifts rough, is noisy or has

Engine diesels (continues to run) after being TUNE

1

Alternator light fails to come

on when

key 1S TUMOR

OM ienceccccscscenec

Battery will not Hold a Charde........c....cscsscsessecpesssinecsasssscscscssesccesees BerCURS SCAT Son ee sscacesrenssstes Offc.ce

11 18

ads Sev Eueiieasy sieed Daguahews cheese hes eeea

4 5

Sea UAT es Tarver FE 3 css dacikcvcwsseaqsetneneevers Engine “lopes” while idling or idles erratically........ccccccccceeeeeeees

17 8

Engine misses throughout driving speed range........ceccceeseeeeeeees

14

9

Nemes

no drive in forward Or REVerse GearS.........ssseseessececsesseeseeseceess Transmission will not downshift with the accelerator pedal pressed TO: 1h TOON:

S=IDCHING MENG) LOL STEEN COICL seecscsansccotvuccrevaccavestestdenventuvesaccvntsoaen STIGGu ANC TO! StU WUMGM MOL se. We axcecce race cevsaskscaacacoctuouccssssdvaccdvescoes Engine misses at idle SPCCC.........scsssecssssessesseeceesseesssseseesseseseceeesen

problems

F Driveshaft

sa

sete

cece

51

eee

49

~

Knock or clunk when transmission is under initial load (just after transmission is put into Gear)...

53

Leaksiatitrontioficniveshatt'.. vi::ess.c.sa.0snvarcestocswenrtenes tesseaeeevee

52

Metallic grating sound consistent with vehicle speed ............-+.-+

54

Engine rotates but will not Start ...c..cccccssccssesessseesesseessseseseeseeeseeseens (Ooms SR cance SCY i Ua aN ae Engine starts but stops immediately ........ccsssssseesssesessssesseesseesseeseee

D) 16 7

Scraping NOIS Cisse it cs peste dao pees etevastondeoe- ecnucdoee dea srapents cates eames Vibration cobee seeneetennecee coseesneneecnnsseenuuecennuscennneceetuscenuuenecennaceunacesenscs Whining) or WiIISHING|MOISC .2%.,.eccasoescczesesteeuc-teeansane testes fuera ackeeaae

Engine surges while holding accelerator steady.........seeceeeeeeneees Engine will not rotate when attempting to Start... eeeeeeeneees

19 1

. Rear axle and differential

EXGessive Tue! CONSUMPTION....s.c.cccsessenssecsescvsascnnapavisssnseatsstesveniaes

24

Knocking sound when starting or shifting Gears.............--sssessse:

59

Excessive Oil COMSUMPTION......cccssssescsssssesscsssseeccsssseesssssseecsessseeceese es Ee ee ae eee Hesitation or stumble during acceleration .....sccccsscsssssesessessssesseeeee

23 25 15

Noise WHEN TUIMING. fica. seecaates sccacesnopccdupnosing tenceeedenetemsadseantzer aexeree se OI NOCAKS vee nis.iccs acacsevebeadavssvennseuedeccuceses ccuseseamaptbetnesaeinenseee tae eee Vib ATOM Fc. coc 9522 Sate ccheenakeu tease vqSencas vase oe accces Jattas dav, ae tenetctoaeesnaeoe tee

60 62 61

MECOMURON ION GSS ULE car coer cary vederetvcankabsvevacsecanvonsene oobecseuss cettveesgaxeaied Iavsaes MISCENANGOUSICNGING MOISES 3s...coecnccsivesacesecccesost-ccesanevsseerecaddseneenss

22 26

Transfer case (4WD models) Difficult shifti

64

AS UUWTalOAC cece sea eeae cos sev ssencaacerasavceedes tessasatnacersacctweteseszaccceccs Starter motor noisy Or engages rOUGHIY .....sccccscsscssssssssseesssssseeee

20 6

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Pinging or knocking engine sounds when engine

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Brakes

31

Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed ...........ccssccccesseeeeeereeees Brake pedal pulsates during brake application. .........:.:ccccseceeseeees Brakes drag (indicated by sluggish engine performance

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79

0-22 This section is an easy reference guide to the more common problems which may occur during the operation of your vehicle. The problems and their possible causes are grouped under headings denoting various components or systems, such as Engine, Cooling system, etc. They also refer you to the chapter and/or section which deals with the problem. Remember, successful troubleshooting ’ isn’t a mysterious “black art” practiced only ~ by professional mechanics. It’s simply the result of the right knowledge combined with an intelligent, systematic approach to a problem. Always follow a logical approach, starting with the simplest solution and working

through to the most complex - and never overlook the obvious. Anyone can run the gas tank dry or leave the lights on overnight, so don’t assume that it can’t happen to you. Finally, always try to establish a clear idea why a problem has occurred and take steps to ensure it doesn’t happen again. For

example, if the electrical system fails because of a poor connection, check all other connections in the system to make sure they don’t fail as well. If a particular fuse continues to blow, find out why - don’t just replace one fuse after another. Remember, failure of a small component often indicates potential failure or malfunction of a more important component or system.

Troubleshooting 2

1 Fuel tank empty. 2 Battery discharged (engine rotates slowly). Check the operation of electrical components as described in previous Section. ay 3 Battery terminal connections loose or corroded. See previous Section.

4 Fuel not reaching the fuel injection unit. Check for clogged fuel filter or lines and defective fuel pump. Also make sure the tank vent lines aren’t clogged (Chapter 4).

5 Faulty distributor components. Check the cap and rotor (Chapter 1). 6 Defective oil pressure/fuel pump switch (Chapters 2B and 4). 7 Low cylinder compression. Check as described in Chapter 2. 8 Valve clearances not properly adjusted (Chapter 2A). 9 Water in fuel. Drain tank and fill with new fuel. 10 Defective ignition coil (Chapter 5). 11. Dirty or clogged fuel injector (Chapter 4). 12 Wet or damaged ignition components (Chapters 1 and 5). 13 Worn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1). 14 Broken, loose or disconnected wires in the starting circuit (see previous Section).

15

Engine and performance 1.

Engine will not rotate when attempting to start

lL Battery terminal connections loose or corroded. Check the cable terminals at the battery; tighten cable clamp and/or clean off corrosion as necessary (see Chapter 1). 2 Battery discharged or faulty. If the cable ends are clean and tight on the battery posts, turn the key to the On position and switch on the headlights or windshield wipers. If they won’t run, the battery is discharged. 3 Automatic transmission not engaged in

park (P) or Neutral (N). 4 __ Broken, loose or disconnected wires in the starting circuit. Inspect all wires and connectors at the battery, starter solenoid and ignition switch (on steering column). 5 Starter motor pinion jammed in flywheel ring gear. If manual transmission, place transmission in gear and rock the vehicle to manually turn the engine. Remove starter (Chapter 5) and inspect pinion and flywheel (Chapter 2) at earliest convenience. 6 Starter solenoid faulty (Chapter 5). 7 Starter motor faulty (Chapter 5). 8 Ignition switch faulty (Chapter 12). 9 Engine seized. Try to turn the crankshaft with a large socket and breaker bar on the pulley bolt.

Engine rotates but will not start

valve timing (Chapter 2).

Starter motor operates without turning engine

1 Starter pinion sticking. Remove the starter (Chapter 5) and inspect. 2 Starter pinion or flywheel/driveplate teeth worn or broken. Remove the inspection cover and inspect.

4

Engine hard to start when cold

1 Battery discharged or low. Check as described in Chapter 1. 2 Fuel not reaching the fuel injectors. Check the fuel filter, lines and fuel pump

(Chapters 1 and 4). 3

Problem with the fuel injection system

(see Chapter 4). 4 Defective spark plugs (Chapter 1).

5

6

Engine hard to start when hot

1 Air filter dirty (Chapter 1). 2 _ Fuel not reaching the fuel injectors (see Section 4). Check for a vapor lock situation,

Starter motor noisy or engages roughly

1 Pinion or flywheel/driveplate teeth worn or broken. Remove the inspection cover on the left side of the engine and inspect. 2 Starter motor mounting bolts loose or missing.

7

Engine starts but stops immediately

1 Loose or damaged wire harness connections at distributor, coil or alternator. 2 Intake manifold vacuum leaks. Make sure all mounting bolts/nuts are tight and all vacuum hoses connected to the manifold are attached properly and in good condition. 3 Insufficient fuel flow (see Chapter 4).

8

Loose distributor (changing ignition tim-

ing). Turn the distributor body as necessary to start the engine, then adjust the ignition timing as soon as possible (Chapter 1). 16 Broken, loose or disconnected wires at the ignition coil or faulty coil (Chapter 5). 17 Timing chain failure or wear affecting

3

brought about by clogged fuel tank vent lines. 3 Bad engine ground connection. 4. Defective pick-up coil in distributor (Chapter 5).

Engine “lopes” while idling or idles erratically

et Vacuum leaks. Check mounting bolts at the intake manifold for tightness. Make sure that all vacuum hoses are connected and in good condition. Use a stethoscope or a length of fuel hose held against your ear to listen for vacuum leaks while the engine is running. A hissing sound will be heard. A soapy water solution will also detect leaks. Check the intake manifold gasket surfaces. 2 Leaking EGR valve or plugged PCV valve (see Chapters 1 and 6). 3 Air filter clogged (Chapter 1). 4 Fuel pump not delivering sufficient fuel (Chapter 4). 5 Leaking head gasket. Perform a cylinder compression check (Chapter 2). 6 — Timing chain worn (Chapter 2). 7 Camshaft lobes worn (Chapter 2). 8 Valve clearance out of adjustment (Chapter 2A). Valves burned or otherwise leaking (Chapter 2). 9 Ignition timing out of adjustment (Chapter 1). 10 Ignition system not operating properly (Chapters 1 and 5). 11. Thermostatic air cleaner not operating properly (Chapter 1). 12 Dirty or clogged injectors.

9

Engine misses at idle speed

1 Spark plugs faulty or not gapped properly (Chapter 1). 2 ___-Faulty spark plug wires (Chapter 1).

0-23

Troubleshooting 3

Wet or damaged

distributor compo-

nents (Chapter 1).

4 — Short circuits in ignition, coil or spark plug wires. 5 Sticking or faulty emissions systems (see Chapter 6). 6 Clogged fuel filter and/or foreign matter in fuel. Remove the fuel filter (Chapter 1) and inspect.

7 » Vacuum leaks at intake manifold or hose connections. Check as described in Section 8. 8 Incorrect idle speed or idle mixture. Have the vehicle checked by a dealer service department. 9 Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter 1). 10 Low or uneven cylinder compression.

the fuel system. Check fuel filter (Chapter 1) or clean system (Chapter 4). 2 Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1). 3 Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter 1). 4 Cracked distributor cap, disconnected distributor wires or damaged distributor components (Chapter 1). 5 Defective spark plug wires (Chapter 1). 6 Emissions system components faulty (Chapter 6).

7

Low or uneven

Weak or faulty ignition coil (Chapter 5). Weak or faulty ignition system (Chap-

ter 5).

Check as described in Chapter 2. 11. Clogged or dirty fuel injectors (Chapter 4).

10. Vacuum leaks at intake manifold or vacuum hoses (see Section 8). 11 Dirty or clogged fuel injector(s) (Chapter 4). 12 Leaky EGR valve (Chapter 6).

10

15

Excessively high idle speed

1. Sticking throttle linkage (Chapter 4). 2 Idle speed incorrectly adjusted (Chapter 1). 3. Valve clearances (Chapter 2A).

11.

incorrectly adjusted

Battery will not hold a charge

1 Alternator drivebelt defective or not adjusted properly (Chapter 1). 2 . Battery cables loose or corroded (Chapter 1). 3 Alternator not charging properly (Chapter 5). 4 Loose, broken or faulty wires in the charging circuit (Chapter 5). 5 Short circuit causing a continuous drain on the battery. 6 _ Battery defective internally.

12

Alternator light stays on

1 Fault in alternator or charging circuit (Chapter 5). 2 Alternator drivebelt defective or not properly adjusted (Chapter 1).

13

Alternator light fails to come on when key is turned on

1. Faulty bulb (Chapter 12). 2 Defective alternator (Chapter 5). ° 3 Fault in the printed circuit, dash wiring or bulb holder (Chapter 12).

14

1

Engine misses throughout driving speed range Fuel filter clogged and/or impurities in

(Chapter 6). 11. Use of sub-standard fuel. Fill tank with proper octane fuel.

12 Low or uneven cylinder compression pressures. Check as described in Chapter 2. 13. Air leak at throttle body or intake manifold (check as described in Section 8).

cylinder compression

pressures. Check as described in Chapter 2.

8 9

9 Fuel filter clogged and/or impurities in the fuel system (Chapters 1 and 4). , 10 EGR system not functioning properly

Hesitation or stumble during acceleration

1 Ignition timing incorrect (Chapter 1). 2 Ignition system not operating properly (Chapter 5). 3 Dirty or clogged fuel injector(s) (Chap-

ter 4). 4 Low fuel pressure.

Check for proper operation of the fuel pump and for restrictions in the fuel filter and lines (Chapter 4).

18

1 EGR system not functioning properly (Chapter 6). 2 Ignition timing incorrect (Chapter 1).

3 Thermostatic air cleaner system not operating properly (Chapter 6). 4 Vacuum leak (refer to Section 8). 5 Valve clearances incorrect (Chapter 2A). 6 Damaged valve springs or sticking valves (Chapter 2). 7 Intake air leak (see Section 8).

19

Engine stalls

1 Idle speed a dealer service 2 Fuel filter impurities in the 3 Damaged

incorrect. Have it checked by department. clogged and/or. water and fuel system (Chapter 1). or wet distributor cap and

wires.

;

4 Emissions system components faulty (Chapter 6). -5 Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1). Also check the spark plug wires (Chapter 1).

6

hoses.

Check

2 3

Ignition timing incorrect (Chapter 1). Carbon build-up in combustion cham-

bers. Remove cylinder head(s) and clean combustion chambers (Chapter 2). 4 Incorrect spark plugs (Chapter 1).

-21

Engine diesels (continues to run) after ates turned off oaks

as

17

Engine lacks power

il 2

Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter 1). Excessive play in distributor shaft.At the

same time check for faulty distributor cap, wires, etc. (Chapter 1). 3 Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).

4

Air filter dirty (Chapter 1).

5 6 7 rect,

Faulty ignition coil (Chapter 5). Brakes binding (Chapters 1 and 9). Automatic transmission fluid level incorcausing slippage (Chapter 1).

8 _ Clutch slipping (Chapter 8).

Pinging or knocking engine sounds when engine is under load

if Incorrect grade of fuel. Fill tank with fuel of the proper octane rating.

Vacuum leak at the throttle body, intake

manifold or vacuum described in Section 8.

Engine surges while holding: accelerator steady

1 Intake air leak (see Section 8). 2 Fuel pump not working properly (Chapter 4).

20 16

Engine backfires

1

Idle speed too high. Haveitchen: by Dara

a dealer service department. 2 Ignition timing incorrect (Chapter 1). 3 Incorrect spark plug heat range (Chapter 1). 4 Intake air leak (see Section 8). 5 Carbon build-up in combustion chambers. Remove the cylinder head(s) and clean the combustion chambers (Chapter 2). 6 Valves sticking (Chapter 2). 7 Valve clearance incorrect (Chapter 2A). 8 EGR system not operating properly (Chapter 6). 9 Fuel shut-off system not operating properly (Chapter 6).

10

Check for causes of overheating (Sec-

tion 27).

—

0-24 FRPP

22

ITLL

Troubleshooting RIL D ES IED ERIE IT IIE EDS SESE SEEOES

AGL O IELE ECG

Low oil pressure

1 Improper grade of oil. 2 Oil pump worn or damaged (Chapter 2). 3. Engine overheating (refer to Section 27). 4 Clogged oil filter (Chapter 1). 5 Clogged oil strainer (Chapter 2). 6 Oil pressure gauge not working properly (Chapter 2).

PSF SALE

26

AGEL

Excessive oil consumption

1

Loose oil drain plug. Loose bolts or damaged oil pan gasket (Chapter 2). Loose bolts or damaged front cover gasket (Chapter 2). 4 Front or rear crankshaft oil seal leaking (Chapter 2). 5 Loose bolts or damaged rocker arm cover gasket (Chapter 2). 6 _ Loose oil filter (Chapter 1). 7 Loose or damaged oil pressure switch (Chapter 2). 8 Pistons and cylinders excessively worn (Chapter 2). 9 Piston rings not installed correctly on pistons (Chapter 2). 10 Worn or damaged piston rings (Chapter 2). : 11. Intake and/or exhaust valve oil seals worn or damaged (Chapter 2). 12 Worn valve stems. 13 Worn or damaged valves/guides (Chapter 2).

24

Excessive fuel consumption

1 Dirty or clogged air filter element (Chapter 1). 2 __ Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter 1). 3 Incorrect idle speed. Have it checked by a dealer service department. 4 _Low tire pressure or incorrect tire size (Chapter 10). 5 Fuel leakage. Check all connections, lines and components in the fuel system (Chapter 4). 6 _ Dirty or clogged fuel injectors (Chapter 4).

25

Fuel odor

1 Fuel leakage. Check all connections, lines and components in the fuel system (Chapter 4). 2 Fuel tank overfilled. Fill only to automatic shut-off. 3. Charcoal canister filter in Evaporative Emissions Control system clogged (Chapter 1). 4 Vapor leaks from Evaporative Emissions Control system lines (Chapter 6).

LEE LILLE EE

ERIE

LILLIE LE

Miscellaneous engine noises

1 A strong dull noise that becomes more rapid as the engine accelerates indicates worn or damaged crankshaft bearings or an unevenly worn crankshaft. To pinpoint the

trouble spot, remove the spark plug wire from one plug at a time and crank the engine over.

If the noise removed

23

LEECL EDP

stops, the cylinder with the

plug wire indicates the problem

area. Replace the bearing and/or service or replace the crankshaft (Chapter 2). 2 A similar (yet slightly higher pitched) noise to the crankshaft knocking described in the previous paragraph, that becomes more rapid as the engine accelerates, indicates worn or damaged connecting rod bearings (Chapter 2). The procedure for locating the problem cylinder is the same as described in Paragraph 1. 3 An overlapping metallic noise that increases in intensity as the engine speed increases, yet diminishes as the engine warms up indicates abnormal piston and cylinder wear (Chapter 2).To locate the problem cylinder, use the procedure described in Paragraph 1. 4 A rapid clicking noise that becomes faster as the engine accelerates indicates a worn piston pin or piston pin hole. This sound will happen each time the piston hits the highest and lowest points in the stroke (Chapter 2). The procedure for locating the problem piston is described in Paragraph 1. 5 A metallic clicking noise coming from the water pump indicates worn or damaged water pump bearings or pump. Replace the water pump with a new one (Chapter 3). 6 A rapid tapping sound or clicking sound that becomes faster as the engine speed increases indicates “valve tapping” or improperly adjusted valve clearances. This can

be identified by holding one end of a section of hose to your ear and placing the other end at different spots along the rocker arm cover. The point where the sound is loudest indicates the problem valve. Adjust the valve clearances (Chapter 2A). If the problem persists, you likely have a collapsed valve lifter or other damaged valve train component. Changing the engine

oil and adding a high viscosity oil treatment will sometimes cure a stuck lifter problem. If the problem still persists, the lifters, pushrods and rocker arms must be removed for inspection (see Chapter 2). 7 A steady metallic rattling or rapping sound coming from the area of the timing chain cover indicates a worn, damaged or out-of-adjustment timing chain. Service or replace the chain and related components

(Chapter 2).

f

I

TELE LIE I TEC LEP TETTT LIED EDEL

EE LEED

ELIE

LEELA

ter 1). 2 _ Drivebelt defective or not adjusted properly (Chapter 1). 3 Radiator core blocked or radiator grille dirty and restricted (Chapter 3). 4 ‘Thermostat faulty (Chapter 3). 5 Fan not functioning properly (Chapter 3). 6 Radiator cap not maintaining proper pressure. Have cap pressure tested by gas station or repair shop. 7 Ignition timing incorrect (Chapter 1). 8 Defective water pump (Chapter 3). 9 Improper grade of engine oil. 10 Inaccurate temperature gauge (Chapter 12).

28

Overcooling

1. Thermostat faulty (Chapter 3). 2 Inaccurate temperature gauge (Chapter 12).

29

External coolant leakage

1 Deteriorated or damaged hoses. Loose clamps at hose connections (Chapter 1). 2 Water pump seals defective. If this is the case, water will drip from the weep hole in the water pump body (Chapter 3). 3 Leakage from radiator core or header tank. This will require the radiator to be professionally repaired (see Chapter 3 for removal procedures). 4 Engine drain plugs or water jacket freeze plugs leaking (see Chapters 1 and 2). 5 Leak from coolant temperature switch (Chapter 3). 6 Leak from damaged gaskets or small cracks (Chapter 2). 7 Damaged head gasket. This can be verified by checking the condition of the engine oil as noted in Section 30.

30

Internal coolant leakage

Note: /nternal coolant leaks can usually be detected by examining the oil. Check the dipstick and inside the rocker arm cover for. water deposits and an oil consistency like that of a milkshake. 1 Leaking cylinder head gasket. Have the system pressure tested or remove the cylinder head (Chapter 2) and inspect. 2 Cracked cylinder bore or cylinder head. Dismantle engine and inspect (Chapter 2). 3 Loose cylinder head bolts (tighten as described in Chapter 2). ———————

Cooling system 27

Overheating

1

Insufficient coolant in system 1

(Chap-

31

Abnormal coolant loss

1 2 (see 3

Overfilling system (Chapter 1). Coolant boiling away due to overheating causes in Section 27). Internal or external leakage (see Sec-

0-25

Troubleshooting ee

rn

en

cn

a

SS

tions 29 and 30). 4 Faulty radiator cap. Have the cap pressure tested. : 5 Cooling system being pressurized by engine compression. This could be due to a

cracked head or block or leaking head gasket(s).

SSL

IE

SPAN

AA

EY

A

2

ST NE

35

Clutch slips (engine speed increases with no increase in vehicle speed)

1

Worn or oil soaked clutch plate.

Poor coolant circulation

1

Inoperative water pump. A quick test is

to pinch the top radiator hose closed with

your hand while the engine is idling, then release it. You should feel a surge of coolant if the pump is working properly (Chapter 3). 2 ‘Restriction in cooling system. Drain, flush and refill the system (Chapter 1). If necessary, remove the radiator (Chapter 3) and have it reverse flushed or professionally cleaned. 3 Loose water pump drivebelt (Chapter 1). 4 Thermostat sticking (Chapter 3). 5 Insufficient coolant (Chapter 1).

Corrosion

1 Excessive impurities in the water. Soft, clean water is recommended. Distilled or rainwater is satisfactory. 2 Insufficient antifreeze solution (refer to Chapter 1 for the proper ratio of water to antifreeze). 3. Infrequent flushing and draining of system. Regular flushing of the cooling system should be carried out at the specified intervals as described in (Chapter 1).

Clutch

2 Clutch plate not broken in. It may take 30 or 40 normal starts for a new clutch to

A

IOC

A

OS

SE

SESS

40

Noisy in Neutral with engine running

3 Diaphragm spring weak or damaged. Remove clutch cover/pressure plate assembly and inspect. 4 Flywheel warped (Chapter 2). 5 Debris in master cylinder preventing the .

Input shaft bearing worn. Damaged main drive gear bearing. Insufficient transmission oil (Chapter 1). — WON Transmission oil in poor condition. Drain and fill with proper grade oil. Check old oil for

piston from returning to its normal position.

water and debris (Chapter 1). 5 Noise can be caused by variations in

6

Clutch hydraulic line damaged.

engine torque. Using the accelerator pedal, change the idle speed and see if noise disap-

36

Grabbing (chattering) as clutch is engaged

1 Oil on clutch plate. Remove and inspect. Repair any leaks. 2 Worn or loose engine or transmission mounts. They may move slightly when clutch is released. Inspect mounts and bolts. 3 Worn splines on transmission input shaft.. Remove clutch components and inspect. 4 Warped pressure plate or flywheel. Remove clutch components and inspect. 5 Diaphragm spring fatigued. Remove clutch cover/pressure plate assembly and inspect. 6 Clutch linings hardened or warped. 7 Clutch lining rivets loose.

1 Clutch contaminated with oil. Remove clutch plate and inspect. 2 Clutch plate warped, distorted or otherwise damaged. 3 Diaphragm spring: fatigued. Remove

2

Worn

system. Inspect master cylinder, operating

diaphragm fingers.

adjust as necessary. 7 Piston seal in operating cylinder deformed or damaged. 8 Lack of grease on pilot bushing.

42

Noisy in one particular gear

—*k Dt

Worn, damaged or chipped gear teeth. Worn or damaged synchronizer.

&

Slips out of gear

44

Worn or damaged release bearing.

and

1. Any of the above causes, and/or: 2 Worn or damaged output gear bearings or shaft.

Squeal or rumble with clutch disengaged (pedal depressed)

1

Check

Noisy in all gears

38

clutch cover/pressure plate assembly and inspect. 4 Leakage of fluid from clutch hydraulic cylinder and connecting lines. 5 Air in clutch hydraulic system. Bleed the

41

3 _- Pilot bushing worn or damaged. 4 Clutch rivets loose. 5 Clutch plate cracked. 6 Fatigued clutch plate torsion springs. Replace clutch plate.

Squeal or rumble with clutch engaged (pedal released)

34

Fails to release (pedal pressed to the floor - shift lever does not move freely in and out of Reverse)

pears.

Transmission loose on clutch housing. Stiff shift lever seal. Shift linkage binding. i Broken or loose input gear bearing retainer. 5 Dirt between clutch lever and engine housing. 6 Worn linkage. 7 ~ Damaged or worn check balls, fork rod ball grooves or check springs. 8 Worn mainshaft or countershaft bearings. 9 Loose engine mounts (Chapter 2). 10 Excessive gear end play. 11. Worn synchronizers.

37

sion shaft. Remove clutch components and check bearing. Remove any burrs or nicks, clean and relubricate before ieinstallation.

stroke.

SN

Manual transmission

located in Chapter 8, unless otherwise noted.

pedal

A

Note: A// manual transmission service information is located in Chapter 7, unless otherwise noted.

1 Improper pedal adjustment. Adjust pedal free play. 2 Release-bearing binding on transmis-

Note: A// clutch related service information is

system. 6 Insufficient

RS

seat.

32

33

NPR

39

or

broken’

pressure

plate

Clutch pedal stays on floor when disengaged

Binding linkage or release bearing. Inspect linkage or remove clutch components as necessary. i

Oilleaks

1 Excessive amount of lubricant in transmission (see Chapter 1 for correct checking procedures). Drain lubricant as required. 2 Rear oil seal or speedometer oil seal damaged. 3 To pinpoint a leak, first remove all builtup dirt and grime from the transmission. Degreasing agents and/or steam cleaning will achieve this. With the underside clean, drive the vehicle at low speeds so the air flow will not blow the leak far from its source. Raise the vehicle and determine where the leak is located.

.

0-26 45

Troubleshooting

Difficulty engaging gears

48

1. Clutch not releasing completely. 2 Loose or damaged shift linkage. Make a thorough inspection, replacing parts as nec-

essary. 3 Insufficient transmission oil (Chapter 1). 4 Transmission oil in poor condition. Drain and fill with proper grade oil. Check oil for water and debris (Chapter 1). 5 Worn or damaged striking rod. 6 Sticking or jamming gears.

46

53

General shift mechanism problems

Chapter 7 deals with checking and adjusting the shift linkage on automatic transmissions. Common problems which may be caused by out of adjustment linkage are:

a) Engine starting in gears other than P (park) or N (Neutral). b) Indicator pointing to a gear other than the one actually engaged. c) Vehicle moves (Park) position.

with transmission

in P

Knock or clunk when transmission is under initial load (just after transmission is put into gear)

1 Loose or disconnected rear suspension components. Check all mounting bolts and bushings (Chapters 7 and 10). 2 _Loose driveshaft bolts. Inspect all bolts and nuts and tighten them securely. 3 Worn or damaged universal joint bearings. Replace driveshaft (Chapter 8). 4 Worn sleeve yoke and mainshaft spline.

Noise occurs while shifting gears

49 1 Check for proper operation of the clutch (Chapter 8).

2 Faulty synchronizer assemblies. Measure baulk ring-to-gear clearance. Also, check for wear or damage to baulk rings or any parts of the synchromesh assemblies.

Transmission will not downshift with the accelerator pedal pressed to the floor

Chapter 7 deals with adjusting the TV linkage to enable the four-speed transmission to downshift properly.

54

Pronounced wear in the universal joint bearings. Replace U-joints or driveshafts, as

necessary.

55 50

Engine will start in gears other than Park or Neutral

Automatic transmission Note: Due to the complexity of the automatic transmission,

it’s

difficult

for

the

home

mechanic to properly diagnose and service. For problems other than the following, the vehicle should be taken to a reputable mechanic.

47

Fluid leakage

1

Automatic transmission fluid is a deep

red color, and fluid leaks should not be confused with engine oil which can easily be

blown by air flow to the transmission. 2 To pinpoint a leak, first remove all builtup dirt and grime from the transmission. Degreasing agents and/or steam cleaning will achieve this. With the underside clean, drive the vehicle at low speeds so the air flow will not blow the leak far from its source. Raise the vehicle and determine where the leak is located. Common areas of leakage are:

Chapter 7 deals with adjusting the Neutral start switch installed on automatic transmissions.

51

Transmission slips, shifts rough, is noisy or has no drive in Forward or Reverse gears

1

There are many probable causes for the

above problems, but the home mechanic should concern himself only with one possi-

bility; fluid level. 2 Before taking the vehicle to a shop, check the .fluid level and condition as described in Chapter 1. Add fluid, if necessary, or change the fluid and filter if needed. If problems persist, have a professional diagnose the transmission.

a) Fluid pan: tighten mounting bolts and/or replace pan gasket as necessary (Chapter 1).

b) Rear extension: tighten bolts and/or replace oil sea] as necessary. c) Filler pipe: replace the rubber oil seal where pipe enters transmission case. d) Transmission oil lines: tighten fittings where lines enter transmission case and/or replace lines. e) Vent pipe: transmission overfilled and/or water in fluid (see checking procedures, Chapter 1).

f) Speedometer connector: replace the O-ring where speedometer cable enters transmission case.

Driveshaft Note: Refer to Chapter 8, unless otherwise specified, for service information.

52

Metallic grating sound consistent with vehicle speed

Vibration

Note: Before blaming the driveshaft, make sure the tires are perfectly balanced and perform the following test. 1 Install a tachometer inside the vehicle to monitor engine speed as the vehicle is driven. Drive the vehicle and note the engine speed at which the vibration (roughness) is most pronounced. Now shift the transmission to a different gear and bring the engine speed to the same point. 2 If the vibration occurs at the same engine speed (rpm) regardless of which gear the transmission is in, the driveshaft is NOT at fault since the driveshaft speed varies. 3 If the vibration decreases or is eliminated when the transmission is in a different gear at the same engine speed, refer to the following probable causes. 4 Bent or dented driveshaft. Inspect and

replace as necessary.

5

_Undercoating or built-up dirt, etc. on the

driveshaft. Clean the shaft thoroughly. 6 Worn universal joint bearings. Replace the U-joints or driveshaft as necessary. 7 _ Driveshaft and/or companion flange out of balance. Check for missing weights on the shaft. Remove driveshaft and reinstall 180degrees from original position, then recheck. Have the driveshaft balanced if problem persists. 8 Loose driveshaft mounting bolts/nuts. 9 Defective center bearing, if so equipped. 10 Worn transmission rear bushing (Chapter 7).

Leaks at front of driveshaft

Defective transmission rear seal. See Chapter 7 for replacement procedure. As this is done, check the splined yoke for burrs or roughness that could damage the new seal. Remove burrs with a fine file or whetstone.

56

Scraping noise

Make sure the dust cover on the sleeve yoke isn’t rubbing on the transmission extension housing.

0-27

Troubleshooting © 57

Whining or whistling noise Defective center bearing, if so equipped.

2 Interference between the control lever and the console. 3. Play or fatigue in the transfer case mounts. 4 Internal wear or incorrect adjustments.

2 Glazed or contaminated pads. 3 __ Dirty or scored rotor. 4 Bent support plate.

68

Excessive brake pedal travel

1

Partial brake system

Rear axle and differential Note: For differential servicing information, refer to Chapter 8, unless otherwise speci-

64 _ Difficult shifting

fied.

1 Lack of oil. 2 Internal wear, adjustment.

58

Noise - same when in drive as when vehicle is coasting

1 Road noise. No corrective action available. 2 Tire noise. Inspect tires and check tire pressures (Chapter 1). 3 Front wheel bearings loose, worn or damaged (Chapter 1). 4 Insufficient differential oil (Chapter 1). 5 Defective differential.

65

damage

or

incorrect

Noise

1 Lack of oil in transfer case. 2 Noise in 4H and 4L, but not in 2H indicates cause is in the front differential or front axle. 3 Noise in 2H, 4H and 4L indicates cause is in rear differential or rear axle. 4 Noise in 2H and 4H but not in 4L, or in

failure.

Inspect

entire system (Chapter 1) and correct as required. 2 ~ Insufficient fluid in master cylinder. Check (Chapter 1) and add fluid - bleed system if necessary. 3 Air in system. Bleed system. 4 Excessive lateral rotor play. 5 Brakes out of adjustment. Check the operation of the automatic adjusters. 6 Defective proportioning valve. Replace valve and bleed system.

69

Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed

1

Air in brake lines. Bleed the brake sys-

4L only, indicates internal wear or damage in

59

Knocking sound when starting or shifting gears

Defective or incorrectly adjusted differential.

60

Noise when turning Defective differential.

61

tem.

Brakes Note: Before assuming a brake problem exists, make sure the tires are in good condition and inflated properly, the front end alignment is correct and the vehicle is not loaded with weight in an unequal manner. All service procedures for the brakes are included in Chapter 9, unless otherwise noted.

Vibration

66

See probable causes under Driveshaft. Proceed under the guidelines listed for the driveshaft. If the problem persists, check the rear wheel bearings by raising the rear of the vehicle and spinning the wheels by hand. Listen for evidence of rough (noisy) bearings.

Remove and inspect (Chapter 8).

62

transfer case.

Vehicle pulls to one side during braking

1 Defective, damaged or oil contaminated brake pad on one side. Inspect as described in Chapter 1. Refer to Chapter 9 if replacement is required. 2 Excessive wear of brake pad material or disc on one side. Inspect and repair as nec-

essary. 3 _ Loose or disconnected front suspension

Oil leaks

components. Inspect and tighten all bolts securely (Chapters 1 and 10).

1 Pinion oil seal damaged (Chapter 8). 2 _Axleshaft oil seals damaged (Chapter 8). 3. Differential cover leaking. Tighten mounting bolts or replace the gasket as required. 4 Loose filler or drain plug on differential (Chapter 1). 5 Clogged or damaged breather on differential.

4

Defective

caliper assembly.

Remove

caliper and inspect for stuck piston or dam-

age. 5 Brake pad to rotor adjustment needed. Inspect automatic adjusting mechanism proper operation.

for

6 7

Scored or out-of-round rotor. Loose caliper mounting bolts.

8

Incorrect wheel bearing adjustment.

Transfer case (4WD models)

67

Noise (high-pitched squeal)

63

1 Front brake pads worn out. This noise comes from the wear sensor rubbing against

Gear jumping out of mesh

1 Incorrect (Chapter 7C).

shift

linkage

adjustment

the disc. Replace pads with new ones immediately!

2 Deteriorated rubber brake hoses. Inspect all system hoses and lines. Replace parts as necessary. 3 Master cylinder mounting nuts loose. Inspect master cylinder bolts (nuts) and tighten them securely. 4 Master cylinder faulty. 5 Incorrect shoe or pad clearance. 6 Defective check valve. Replace valve and bleed system. 7 Clogged reservoir cap vent hole. 8 Deformed rubber brake lines. 9 Soft or swollen caliper seals. 10 Poor quality brake fluid. Bleed entire system and fill with new approved fluid.

70

Excessive effort required to stop vehicle

1 Power brake booster not operating properly. 2 Excessively worn linings or pads. Check and replace if necessary. 3 One or more caliper pistons seized or sticking. Inspect and rebuild as required.

4 Brake pads or linings contaminated with oil or grease. Inspect and replace as required. 5 New pads or linings installed and not yet seated. It'll take a while for the new material to seat against the rotor or drum.

6 Worn or damaged master cylinder or caliper assemblies. Check particularly for frozen pistons. 7 Also see causes listed under Section 69.

71

Pedal travels to the floor with little resistance

Little or no fluid in the master cylinder

0-28 SSS

Troubleshooting SS

SSSR

PL

reservoir caused by leaking caliper piston(s)

or loose, damaged or disconnected brake lines. Inspect entire system and repair as necessary.

72

SY

BIE

DS A

I EI

ELE SI EE

3. Front brake pads contaminated with oil, mud or water. Clean or replace the pads. 4 Front brake pads excessively worn. 5 Defective ABS system. Have the vehicle checked by a dealer service department.

Brake pedal pulsates during brake application

1 Wheel bearings damaged, worn or out of adjustment (Chapter 1). 2 Caliper not sliding properly due to improper installation or obstructions.

Suspension and steering Note: A// service procedures for the suspension and steering systems are included in Chapter 10, unless otherwise noted.

76

Vehicle pulls to one side

runout and parallelism. Have the rotors resurfaced or replace them with new ones. Also make sure that all rotors are the same thick-

ness. 4 Out-of-round rear brake drums. Remove the drums and have them turned or replace them with new ones.

73

Brakes drag (indicated by sluggish engine performance or wheels being very hot after driving)

1 Output rod adjustment incorrect at the brake pedal. 2 Obstructed master cylinder compen-: sator. Disassemble master cylinder and clean. 3 Master cylinder piston seized in bore.

Overhaul master cylinder. . 4 Caliper assembly in need of overhaul. 5

Brake pads or shoes worn out.

6 Piston cups in master cylinder or caliper assembly deformed. Overhaul master cylinder. 7 — Rotor not within specifications (Section 72). 8 Parking brake assembly will not release. 9 Clogged brake lines. 10 Wheel bearings out of adjustment (Chapter 1). 11. Brake pedal height improperly adjusted. 12 Wheel cylinder needs overhaul. 13 Improper shoe to drum clearance. Adjust as necessary.

ES

1‘ Tire pressures uneven (Chapter 1). 2 . Defective tire (Chapter 1). 3 Excessive wear in suspension or steering components (Chapter 1). 4 Front end alignment incorrect. 5 Front brakes dragging. Inspect as described in Section 73. 6 Wheel bearings improperly adjusted (Chapter 1). 7 Wheel lug nuts loose.

77

Shimmy, shake or vibration

1 Tire or wheel out of balance or out-ofround. Have them balanced on the vehicle. 2 Loose, worn or out of adjustment wheel bearings (Chapter 1). 3 Shock absorbers and/or suspension components worn or damaged. Check for worn bushings in the upper and lower links. Wheel lug nuts loose. Incorrect tire pressures. Excessively worn or damaged tire. Loosely mounted steering gear housing. Steering gear improperly adjusted. Loose, worn or damaged steering comOONOAA ponents. 10 Damaged idler arm. 11. Worn balljoint.

78

Excessive pitching and/or rolling around corners or during braking

1

Defective shock absorbers. Replace as

Rear brakes lock up under light brake application

1‘ Tire pressures too high. 2 Faulty ABS system. Have the vehicle checked by a dealer service department.

75

po —

Rear brakes lock up under heavy brake application Tire pressures too high. Tires excessively worn (Chapter 1).

2. Broken or weak leaf springs and/or suspension components. 3 Worn or damaged stabilizer bar or bushings.

79

Wandering or general instability

il Improper 2 Worn or or tension rod 3 Incorrect 4 Worn or

tire pressures. damaged upper and lower link bushings. front end alignment. damaged steering linkage or

suspension components.

OIE

AEILE EE ELE

LEE TE

TELE TET,

Excessively stiff steering

1 Lack of lubricant in power steering fluid reservoir, where appropriate (Chapter 1). 2 Incorrect tire pressures (Chapter 1). 3 Lack of lubrication at balljoints (Chapter 1). 4 Front end out of alignment. 5 Improperly adjusted wheel bearings. 6 Worn or damaged steering gear. 7 Interference of steering column with turn signal switch. 8 Lowtire pressures. 9 Worn or damaged balljoints. 10 Worn or damaged steering linkage. 11. See also Section 79.

81

Excessive play in steering

1 Loose wheel bearings (Chapter 1). 2 Excessive wear in suspension bushings (Chapter 1). ‘ 3 Steering gear defective. 4 Incorrect front end alignment. 5 Steering gear mounting bolts loose. 6 Worn steering linkage.

82

Lack of power assistance

1 Steering pump drivebelt faulty or not adjusted properly (Chapter 1). 2 Fluid level low (Chapter 1). 3 Hoses or pipes restricting the flow. Inspect and replace parts as necessary. 4 Air in power steering system. Bleed system.

5

Defective power steering pump.

83

Steering wheel fails to return to straight-ahead position Incorrect front end alignment. Tire pressures low. Steering gears improperly engaged.

a set.

74

ES

Defective steering gear. Out of balance wheels. Loose wheel lug nuts. Worn rear shock absorbers. Fatigued or damaged rear leaf springs. OONDA

80

Remove and inspect.

3 Rotor not within specifications. Remove the rotor and check for excessive lateral

EI

Steering column out of alignment. Worn or damaged balljoint. Worn or damaged steering linkage. Improperly lubricated idler arm. Insufficient oil in steering gear. — OONODABRWNDM Lack of fluid in power steering pump.

84

Steering effort not the same in both directions (power system)

1 2

Leaks in steering gear. Clogged fluid passage in steering gear.

0-29

Troubleshooting 85 1 2

Noisy power steering pump Insufficient oil in pump. . Clogged hoses or oil filter in pump.

3 Loose pulley. 4 \|mproperly adjusted drivebelt (Chapter 1). 5 Defective pump.

86

Miscellaneous noises

1

Improper tire pressures.

2 __Insufficiently lubricated balljoint or steering linkage. 3 Loose or worn steering gear, steering linkage or suspension components. Defective shock absorber. Defective wheel bearing. Worn or damaged suspension bushings. Damaged leaf spring. Loose wheel lug nuts.

Worn or OMONOOf

damaged rear axleshaft spline.

10 Worn or damaged rear shock absorber mounting bushing. 11 Incorrect rear axle endplay. 12 See also causes of noises at the rear axle and driveshaft.

2 __Excessive speed in turns. 3. Front end alignment incorrect (excessive toe-in).

89

87

1

Excessive tire wear (not specific to one area) Incorrect tire pressures.

2 ‘Tires out of balance. Have them balanced on the vehicle. 3 Wheels damaged. Inspect and replace as necessary. 4 Suspension or steering components worn (Chapter 1).

Excessive tire wear on inside edge

1 Incorrect tire pressure. 2 Front end alignment incorrect (toe-out). 3 Loose or damaged steering components (Chapter 1).

90

Tire tread worn in one place

1 Tires out of balance. anced on the vehicle.

88

Excessive tire wear on outside edge

1

Incorrect tire pressure.

Have them

bal-

2 Damaged or buckled wheel. Inspect and replace if necessary. 3 Defective tire.

0-30 SS

Troubleshooting SSS

oe

SPSS

Notes

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance Contents Section MAME CONEOP ACEO Lactes saccetesenktaaredssusiccatenFecttexsinesscsseuneuecasvivecteaces 23

Section Ignition timing Check and AdjUStMENt ...........c:ccscceseeeceseeseesseeeeees 43

Automatic transmission fluid and filter Change...........cccccccseeseeees Automatic transmission fluid level CHECK ..........cccsccseeeseeteeseeeseens Battery check and maintenance .............csccsccesscesseseessteeseeseeseseees ROTA EMACIOK. crea eee ccs see ee ee EH ee cack chs caiecceyeatteertaarselieid veves BeASS SMUD CIOPTION ccanernce cose ton cceacorer ex ceccnt ness bdaa cs con tsenee Teemu ord ence

INTFOGUCTION Sesccechsakeoss leckveanteemes soenceebces cvasesys sponte padd afavaleeesusrete er maaan Sel Maintenance SCMeGUle tvccesussetncstels rtecccchsascsnutasesececatmesy suasasonereeeetia 2 Manual transmission lubricant Change ........ccscccceeeeseesreeenreeseerees 32 Manual transmission lubricant level CHECK ..........:::cccseeseeeeeeeeeerees 17 Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve check

(OS

SNES Weg oto) RRO 2 RS

aR

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oe

31 6 8 21 13

9

Cooling system servicing (draining, flushing and refilling) ............. 36 ISYVUINGOr COMPFESSION COCK .siccsiccvccecccvtasscccheesnavscacevensecs See Chapter 2 Dieptlal AUP TIGAMt GIANG iar xe- bs xceces akancesiseccantchascce cavascctvabenbakenens 33 Differential lubricant level CheCK ............cccccescccsseesseeeseeesseeeseeeeneeees 19 Distributor cap and rotor check and replacement .............:ccceceees 42 » Drivebelt check, adjustment and replacement..............:ccccseeeeneees 27 ENIGIS OllamG MESH CHANGSscatvesnsnsaracercescscsdeustaqgectunsesiysets esessarevens 12 Evaporative emissions control system Che Ck ...........c:cccsseeeeseeeneees 37 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system. check and servicing ..... 38 Mia UNE SEOITEC OG ra cates eceritan ctance tape ang cShcatanana scvcensSesndentsdbaneadvanck 15 REIENCUO VEL CMOGKGS soiecrrotstencsycxsanceces{cilvessescasdesesecaserazecneen sbatetssvesccheas 4 Front wheel bearing check, repack and adjustment NEV VITIOCIOIS ION) ets nus ovatscscrsbavecs tes canstessvassazeperTagateariatesbncivases 34 RAUIeN RePVOD COMIC seecies cosa ncss

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12-27

12-28

Chapter 12

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ia 8

IND-1

Index A About this manual, 0-5 Accelerator cable, replacement, 4-8 Air conditioning system - check and maintenance, 3-9 removal and installation accumulator, 3-10 compressor, 3-9 condenser, 3-10 Air filter housing, removal and installation, 4-7 replacement, 1-22 Air management system, 6-15 Airbag, general information, 12-11 Alignment, front end, general information, 10- 16 Alternator brushes and regulator, replacement, 5-11 removal and installation, 5-10 Antifreeze, general information, 3-2 Anti-lock brake system, general information, 9-19 Automatic transmission, 7B-1 through 7B-6 diagnosis, general, 7B-1 fluid and filter change, 1-24 fluid level check, 1-10 general information, 7B-1

mount, check and replacement, 7B-4 park/neutral switch, adjustment and replacement, 7B-4 removal and installation, 7B-5 shift cable (1995 and later models), removal, installation and adjustment, 7B-3

shift linkage (1988 through 1994 models), removal, installation and adjustment, 7B-2

;

Throttle valve (TV) cable (4L60/700R-4), replacement and adjustment, 7B-3 Automotive chemicals and lubricants, 0-18 Axles, general information, 8-10 assembly, rear, removal and installation, 8-12 bearing, rear (semi-floating axle), replacement, 8- 14 Axleshaft, full-floating, removal and installation, 8-11

Battery cables, replacement, 5-4 check and maintenance, 1-14 replacement, 5-3 emergency jump starting, 5-3 jump starting, 0-16 Body, 11-1 through 11-10 damage repair major, 11-3 minor, 11-2 maintenance, 11-1 Brakes, 9-1 through 9-20 Anti-lock brake system, general information, 9-19 check, 1-20 disc caliper, removal, overhaul and installation, 9-6 inspection, removal and installation, 9-5

fluid, 1-11 general information, 9-2 hoses and lines, check and replacement, 9-18

hydraulic booster (Hydro-boost), removal and installation, 9-18 light switch, removal, installation and adjustment, 9-17 pads, replacement, 9-4 parking adjustment, 9-17 cables, removal and installation, 9-17 shoe replacement duo-servo type, 9-6

leading/trailing type, 9-12 system bleeding, 9-19 Bulb replacement, 12-5 Buying parts, 0-8

C Camshaft, bearings and lifters, removal, inspection and installation, 2A-14 Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor, check and replacement, 6-16

Capacities, 1-1 Catalytic converter, 6-25 Charging system Balancer shaft, removal and installation (1994 and later V6 engines), 2A-16 Balljoints, check and replacement, 10-6

check, 5-10 general information and precautions, 5-9 Chassis electrical system, 12-1 through 12-44

N—e

IND-2 ES

SS

Index PTS

ES

ES

TES

SE

Chassis lubrication, 1-17 Circuit breakers, general information, 12-3

ST

Distributor cap and rotor check and replacement, 1-30

Clutch and driveline, 8-1 through 8-16 Clutch components, removal, inspection and installation, 8-3 description and check, 8-2

fluid, 1-11 hydraulic system, bleeding, 8-6 master cylinder, removal, overhaul and installation, 8-2 release bearing, removal, inspection and installation, 8-5 release cylinder, removal, overhaul and installation, 8-3 Coil spring (2WD models), removal and installation, 10-7 | Compression check, 2B-7 _Control arm, removal and installation lower, 10-8

removal and installation, 5-9

Door lock, power system, description and check, 12-10 removal and installation latch, lock cylinder and handle, 11-8 trim panel, 11-3 window glass and regulator, 11-7 side and cargo, 11-8 Driveaxle boot replacement and constant velocity (CV) joint inspection, 8-14

4WD models (front), removal and installation, 8-13 Drivebelt check, adjustment and replacement, 1-22 Driveline inspection, 8-7 Driveshaft(s) and universal joints, general

upper, 10-8 Conversion factors, 0-18 Coolant reservoir, removal and installation, 3-6

Cooling system check, 1-14 fan and fan clutch, removal and installation, 3-4 servicing (draining, flushing and refilling), 1-27 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems, 3-1 through 3-10 Crankcase ventilation system, 6-20 Crankshaft oil seals, replacement, 2A-18 inspection, 2B-18 installation and main bearing oil clearance check, 2B-21 removal, 2B-14 Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor, check and replacement, 6-15 Cylinder head cleaning and inspection, 2B-11

disassembly, 2B-10 reassembly, 2B-12 removal and installation, 2A-11 Cylinder honing, 2B-16

D Diagnosis, 0-20

general, automatic transmission, 7B-1 Differential lubricant change, 1-25 level check, 1-19 Disc brake caliper, removal, overhaul and installation, 9-6 inspection, removal and installation, 9-5 pads, replacement, 9-4

information, 8-6

Driveshaft center support bearing, removal and installation, 8-8 removal and installation, 8-7 Drum brake shoes, replacement

. duo-servo type, 9-6 leading/trailing type, 9-12

E Electrical troubleshooting, general information, 12-1 Electronic Control Module (ECM)/PROM/CALPAK, removal and installation, 6-10 Emissions control systems, 6-1 through 6-26 Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor, check and replacement, 6-16 catalytic converter, 6-25 crankcase ventilation system, 6-20 Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor, check and replacement, 6-15 Electronic Control Module (ECM)/PROM/CALPAK, removal and installation, 6-10 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor, check and replacement, 6-14 evaporative emissions control system, 6-22 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system, 6-20 Jdle Air Control (IAC) valve, check and replacement, 6-19 Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor, check and replacement, 6-14 knock sensor and module, check ous replacement, 6-18 Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor, check a replacement, 6-13 Mass Airflow (MAF) sensor, check and replacement, 6-13 On Board Diagnostic (OBD) system and trouble codes, 6-4

IND-3

Index oxygen sensor, check and replacement, 6-16

Secondary Air Injection (AIR) system, 6-23 thermostatic air cleaner (1988 through 1995 models), 6-25 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), check and replacement, 6-12 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS), check and replacement, 6-19 End gate removal and installation, 11-10 window, 11-8

check, 1-18

servicing, general information, 4-15

F-

.

Engines, 2A-1 through 2B-24 block cleaning, 2B-15 inspection, 2B-16 coolant, 1-10

mounts, check and replacement, 2A-21 oil and filter change, 1-16 oil, 1-10 overhaul J disassembly sequence, 2B-10 general information, 2B-8 procedures, 2B-1 reassembly sequence, 2B-19 rebuilding alternatives, 2B-9 removal and installation, 2B-9 removal, methods and precautions, 2B-8 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor, check and replacement, 6-14 Engine electrical systems, 5-1 through 5-14 alternator brushes and regulator, replacement, 5-11 removal and installation, 5-10 battery cables, replacement, 5-4 check and replacement, 5-3

emergency jump starting, 5-3 charging system check, 5-10

general information and precautions, 5-9 distributor, removal and installation, 5-9 Enhanced Distributor Ignition (EDI) system, 5-5 High Energy Ignition (HEI) system, 5-5

ignition coil, replacement, 5-8 ignition module, replacement, 5-7 ignition pick-up coil (1995 and earlier models), replacement, 5-8 ignition system - general information, 5-5 ignition system, check, 5-5 starter motor

and circuit, check, 5-12 removal and installation, 5-13 starter solenoid, removal and installation, 5-14 starting system, general information and precautions, 5-12

Evaporative Emission Control System (EECS), 1-28, 6-22 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system, 1-28, 6-20 Exhaust manifolds, removal and installation, 2A-10 Exhaust system

Fault finding, 0-21 Fender, front, removal and installation, 11-9

Fluid level checks, 1-10

ek

Flywheel/driveplate, removal and installation, 2A-21 Front driveaxle (4WD models), removal and installation, 8-13 Front end alignment, general information, 10-16 Front shaft and axle tube assembly (4WD models), removal and installation, 8-16 Front wheel bearing check, repack and adjustment (2WD models only), 1-26 Fuel and exhaust systems, 4-1 through 4-18 accelerator cable, replacement, 4-8 air filter housing, removal and installation, 4-7

Central Sequential Fuel Injection (Central SF) systems, 4-9

exhaust system servicing, general information, 4-17 filter replacement, 1-22 fuel injection system check, 4-9 general information, 4-8

fuel level sending unit, check and replacement, 4-7 ~ fuel lines and fittings, repair and replacement, 4-4 Fuel meter body (Central SFI), component replacement, 4-13 fuel pressure relief procedure, 4-3 fuel pump, removal and installation, 4-6 fuel pump/fuel pressure, check, 4-3 fuel rail and injectors (MPFI), component replacement, 4-15 fuel tank cleaning and repair, general information, 4-6 removal and installation, 4-5

Multi Port Fuel Injection (MPFI) systems, 4-9 system check, 1-21 Throttle Body Injection (TBI) systems, 4-8 unit, component replacement, 4-10 Full-floating axleshaft, removal and installation, 8-11 Fuel injection system check, 4-9

general information, 4-8 Fuel level sending unit, check and replacement, 4-7 Fuel lines and fittings, repair and replacement, 4-4

IND-4

Index

Fuel meter body (Central SFI), component replacement, 4-13 Fuel pressure relief procedure, 4-3 Fuel pump, removal and installation, 4-6 Fuel pump/fuel pressure, check, 4-3 Fuel rail and injectors (MPFl), component replacement, 4-15 Fuel tank cleaning and repair, general information, 4-6 removal and installation, 4-5

Fuses, general information, 12-2 Fusible links, general information, 12-2

Ignition pick-up coil (1995 and earlier models), replacement, 5-8 timing check and adjustment, 1-31 Information sensors, 6-12 Initial start-up and break-in after overhaul, 2B-24 Instrument cluster, removal and installation, 12-8 Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor, check and

replacement, 6-14 Intake manifold, removal and installation, 2A-7 Introduction to the full-size Chevrolet and GMC pick-ups, 0-5

J Gate (end) removal and installation, 11-10 General engine overhaul procedures,

Jacking and towing, 0-17 Jump starting, battery, 0-16

2B-1 through 2B-24

H Headlights adjustment, 12-3 removal and installation, 12-3 Heater blower assembly, removal and installation, 3-6 ~ controls, removal and installation, 3-7

general information, 3-6 housing and core, removal and installation, 3-8 Hinges and locks, maintenance, 11-3 Hood release cable, removal and installation, 11-9 -removal, installation and adjustment, 11-3 Hub and bearing assembly (4WD models), replacement, 10-11 Hub/drum assembly and wheel bearings (full-floating | axle), removal, installation and adjustment, 8-12 Hydraulic brake booster (Hydro-boost), removal and ’ installation, 9-18 Hydraulic clutch check, 1-19

Idle Air Control (IAC) valve, check and replacement, 6-19 Ignition system check, 5-5 coil, replacement, 5-8 general information, 5-5 key lock cylinder, replacement, 12-7 module, replacement, 5-7

K Knock sensor and module, check and replacement, 6-18

L Leaf spring/shackle, removal and installation, 10-10 Lower control arm, removal and installation, 10-8 Lubricants and fluids, recommended, 1-1

M Main and connecting rod bearings, inspection, 2B-19 Maintenance

schedule, 1-9 techniques, tools and working facilities, 0-8 Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor, 6-13 Manual transmission, 7A-1 through 7A-4 general information, 7A-1 lubricant change, 1-25 lubricant level check, 1-19 oil seal, replacement, 7A-2

overhaul, general information, 7A-2 shift lever, removal and installation, 7A-2 Mass Airflow (MAF) sensor, check and replacement, 6-13 Master cylinder, removal, overhaul and

installation, 9-15 Mirror, outside, removal and installation, 11-10

IND-5

Index

O

S

Oil pan, removal and installation, 2A-17

Safety first, 0-20 Seal replacement, transfer case, 7C-2 Seat back latch check, 1-24

Oil pressure sending unit location, 2B-6 Oil pump, removal and installation, 2A-17 Oil seal replacement, 7A-2 semi-floating axle, replacement, 8-11 ‘On Board Diagnostic (OBD) system and trouble codes, 6-4 Outside mirror, removal and installation, 11-10 Oxygen sensor, check and replacement, 6-16

belt check, 1-24

_ Secondary Air Injection (AIR) system, 6-23 Semi-floating rear axleshaft, removal and installation, 8-10 Sequential Fuel Injection systems-general information, 4-8 Shaft (front) and axle tube assembly (4WD models), removal and installation, 8-16

p Park/Neutral switch, 6-13, 7B-5 Parking brake adjustment, 9-17 cables, removal and installation, 9-17 Pilot bearing, inspection and replacement, 8-6 Pinion oil seal, rear, replacement, 8-12 Piston rings, installation, 2B-20 Piston/connecting rod assembly inspection, 2B-17 installation and rod bearing oil clearance check, 2B-21 removal, 2B-13 Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system, 1-28, 6-16 Power door lock system, description and check, 12-10 Power steering fluid level check, 1-13

pump, removal and installation, 10-14 system, bleeding, 10-15 Power window system, description and check, 12-10

Pre-oiling the engine after overhaul, 2B-23

R Radiator grille, removal and installation, 11-9 Radiator, removal and installation, 3-3 Rear axle assembly, removal and installation, 8-12 bearing (Semi-floating axle), replacement, 8-11

Rear pinion oil seal, replacement, 8-12 Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle, 2A-4 Rocker arm covers, removal and installation, 2A-4 Rocker arms and pushrods, removal, inspection and installation, 2A-5

Shift cable (1995 and later models), removal, installation and adjustment, 7B-3 Shift lever, removal and installation manual transmission, 7A-2 transfer case, 7C-1 Shift linkage automatic transmission, 1988 through 1994 models, 7B-2 transfer case, 7C-1 Shock absorber, removal and installation front, 10-4 rear, 10-10 Side and cargo door, removal and installation, 11-8

Side latched window (extended cab models), removal and installation, 11-7

Spark plug replacement, 1-29 wire check and replacement, 1-30 Stabilizer bar, removal and installation, 10-5 Starter motor and circuit, check, 5-12 removal and installation, 5-13 Starter safety switch check, 1-23 Starter solenoid, removal and installation, 5-14 Starting system, general information and precautions, 5-12 7 Steering system gear, removal and installation, 10-14

general information, 10-3 knuckle 2WD _ AWD linkage,

removal and installation models, 10-7 models, 10-9 inspection, removal and installation, 10-12

power steering pump, removal and installation, 10-14

system, bleeding, 10-15 wheel, removal and installation, 10-11 Suspension and steering systems, 10-1 through 10-16 check, 1-18 systems, general information, 10-3 Switches, removal and installation, 12-5

IND-6

Index

Tailgate, removal and installation, 11-10 Thermostat, check and replacement, 3-4 Thermostatic air cleaner, 1-29, 6-25

Throttle body mounting bolt torque check, 1-23 removal and installation, 4-9 Throttle Body Injection (TBI) system, 4-5

unit, component replacement, 4-10 Throttle cable, removal and installation, 4-9 Throttle linkage inspection, 1-23 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), check and replacement, 6-12 Throttle valve (TV) cable (4L60/700R-4), replacement and adjustment, 7B-3

Timing cover, chain and sprockets, removal and installation, 2A-12 Tire and tire pressure checks, 1-11 Tire rotation, 1-20 Tools, 0-11 ) Top Dead Center (TDC) for number one piston,

locating, 2A-12 Torsion bar (4WD models), removal and installation, 10-10 Towing the vehicle, 0-16 Transfer case, 7C-1 through 7C-4 general information, 7C-1 lubricant level check (4WD models only), 1-19 overhaul, 7C-3 removal and installation, 7C-2 . seal replacement, 7C-2 shift lever, replacement, 7C-1 shift linkage, check and adjustment, 7C-1 Transmission automatic, 7B-1 through 7B-6 -

diagnosis, general, 7B-1 fluid and filter change, 1-23 fluid level check, 1-12 general information, 7B-1 mount, check and replacement, 7B-4

park/neutral switch, adjustment and replacement, 7B-4

removal and installation, 7B-5 shift cable (1995 and later models), removal, installation and adjustment, 7B-3 shift linkage (1988 through 1994 models), removal, installation and adjustment, 7B-2 Throttle valve (TV) cable (4L60/700R-4), replacement and adjustment, 7B-3 manual, 7A-1 through 7A-4 general information, 7A-1 lubricant change, 1-25 lubricant level check, 1-19

oil seal, replacement, 7A-2 overhaul, general information, 7A-2 shift lever, removal and installation, 7A-2 removal and installation, 7A-2 Trouble codes, 6-4 Troubleshooting, 0-21 Tune-up and routine maintenance, 1-1 through 1-32 Tune-up general information, 1-10 Turn signal and hazard flashers, check and replacement, 12-3

U Underhood hose check and replacement, 1-15 Universal joints, removal, overhaul and installation, 8-9 Upholstery and carpets, maintenance, 11-2 Upper control arm, removal and installation, 10-8

V Vacuum power brake booster, removal and installation, 9-18 Valve servicing, 2B-12 springs, retainers and seals, replacement, 2A-6 Vehicle identification numbers, 0-6 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS), check and replacement, 6-19 Vinyl trim, maintenance, 11-2

Water pump check, 3-5 removal and installation, 3-5 Wheel bearing check (front), repack and adjustment (2WD models only), 1-26 cylinder, removal, overhaul and installation, 9-14 Wheels and tires, general information, 10-15 Window end gate, removal and installation, 11-8 power system, description and check, 12-10 rear, wiper motor, removal and installation, 12-9 side latched (extended cab models), removal and installation, 11-7 : Windshield and fixed glass, replacement, 11-3 Windshield wiper motor, removal and installation, 12-9 Wiper blade inspection and replacement, 1-16 Wiring diagrams, general information, 12-12 Working facilities, 0-8

Haynes Automotive Manuals NOTE: New manuals are added to this list on a periodic basis. If you do not see a listing for your vehicle, consult your local Haynes dealer for the latest product information.

ACURA *12020

24048 Integra '86 thru ’89 & Legend ’86 thru '90

AMC 14020 14025

Jeep CJ - see JEEP (50020) Mid-size models, Concord, Hornet, Gremlin & Spirit °70 thru ’83 (Renault) Alliance & Encore ’83 thru '87

15020 15025 15026

Luv Pick-up all 2WD & 4WD ’72 thru ’82 Monte Carlo all models 70 thru ’88 Monte Carlo '95 thru '98 - see LUMINA (24048)

24059

Nova all V8 models ’69 thru ’79 Nova and Geo Prizm ’85 thru ’92 Pick-ups ’67 thru ’87 - Chevrolet &'GMC,

*24060 24064 *24065

AUDI 4000 all models ’80 thru 87 5000 all models ’77 thru ’83 5000 all models ’84 thru ’88

AUSTIN-HEALEY

Lumina & Monte Carlo ’95 thru ’98 Lumina APV - see GM (38035)

24050 *24055

24070 *24071

all V8 & in-line 6 cyl, 2WD & 4WD ’67 thru ’87; Suburbans, Blazers & Jimmys ’67 thru ’91 Pick-ups ’88 thru ’98 - Chevrolet & GMC, all full-size pick-ups, '88 thru '98; Blazer & Jimmy '92 thru ’94; Suburban '92 thru ’98; Tahoe & Yukon ’98 S-10 & S-15 Pick-ups ’82 thru ’93, Blazer & Jimmy '83 thru.’94, S-10 & S-15 Pick-ups ‘94 thru ‘96 Blazer & Jimmy ‘95 thru ‘96

Sprite - see MG Midget (66015)

*24075 *24080

*18020

3/5 Series not including diesel or all-wheel drive models ’82 thru ’92

CHRYSLER

“18021 18025 18035 18050

3 Series except 325iX models '92 thru '97

BMW

320i all 4 cyl models ’75 thru ’83 528i & 530i all models ’75 thru ’80 1500 thru 2002 except Turbo '59 thru ’77

25015 25025 10310 *25020

BUICK *19020

19025

Century (front wheel drive) - see GM (829) Buick, Oldsmobile & Pontiac Full-size (Front wheel drive) all models '85 thru '98 Buick Electra, LeSabre and Park Avenue;

Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royale, Ninety Eight and Regency; Pontiac Bonneville Buick Oldsmobile & Pontiac Full-size (Rear wheel drive) Buick Estate ’70 thru ’90, Electra’ 70 thru ’84,

LeSabre ’70 thru ’85, Limited ’74 thru ’79 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser ’70 thru ’90, Delta 88 ’70 thru ’85,Ninety-eight ’70 thru '84

19030

Pontiac Bonneville '70 thru ’81, Catalina ’70 thru ’81, Grandville ’70 thru ’75, Parisienne ’83 thru ’86 Mid-size Regal & Century all rear-drive models with V6, V8 and Turbo ’74 thru ’87

Regal - see GENERAL MOTORS (38010) Riviera - see GENERAL MOTORS (38030) Roadmaster - see CHEVROLET (24046) Skyhawk - see GENERAL MOTORS (38015) Skylark ’80 thru ’85 - see GM (38020) Skylark ’86 on - see GM (38025) Somerset - see GENERAL MOTORS (38025)

CADILLAC *21030

Cadillac Rear Wheel Drive all gasoline models ’70 thru ’93 Cimarron - see GENERAL MOTORS (38015) Eldorado - see GENERAL MOTORS (38030) Seville ’80 thru ’85 - see GM (38030)

CHEVROLET *24010 24015 24016

Astro & GMC Safari Mini-vans ’85 thru ’93 Camaro V8 all models ’70 thru ’81 Camaro all models ’82 thru ’92

Cavalier - see GENERAL MOTORS (38015) Celebrity - see GENERAL MOTORS (38005) 24017 24020 24024

Camaro & Firebird ‘93 thru ‘97 Chevelle, Malibu & El Camino ’69 thru ’87 Chevette & Pontiac T1000 ’76 thru ’87

Citation - see GENERAL MOTORS (38020) *24032 24040 *24041 10305 24045

24046

Corsica/Beretta all models ’87 thru 96 Corvette all V8 models ’68 thru ’82 Corvette all models ’84 thru ’96 Chevrolet Engine Overhaul Manual Full-size Sedans Caprice, Impala, Biscayne, Bel Air & Wagons ’69 thru ’90 Impala SS & Caprice and

Buick Roadmaster ’91 thru ‘96 Lumina - see GENERAL MOTORS (38010)

*25030

Sprint & Geo Metro ’85 thru '94 Vans - Chevrolet & GMC, V8 & in-line 6 cylinder models ’68 thru ’96

28016 28018 28020 28022 28025

*30011 30012 30016 *30020 30025

Full-size Front-Wheel Drive ’88 thru ’93

K-Cars - see DODGE Aries (30008) Laser - see DODGE Daytona (30030) Chrysler & Plymouth Mid-size front wheel drive ’82 thru ’95 Rear-wheel Drive - see Dodge (30050)

200SxX all models ’80 thru ’83 B-210 all models ’73 thru ’78 210 all models ’79 thru ’82 240Z, 260Z & 280Z Coupe ’70 thru ’78

280ZX Coupe & 2+2 ’79 thru ’83 300ZX - see NISSAN (72010) 310 all models ’78 thru ’82 510 & PL521 Pick-up ’68 thru ’73 510 all models ’78 thru 81 620 Series Pick-up all models ’73 thru ’79 720 Series Pick-up - see NISSAN (72030) 810/Maxima all gasoline models, ’77 thru ’84

400 & 600 - see CHRYSLER (25030) Aries & Plymouth Reliant ’81 thru ’89 Caravan & Plymouth Voyager Mini-Vans all models ’84 thru ’95 Caravan & Plymouth Voyager Mini-Vans all models ’96 thru ’98 Challenger/Plymouth Saporro ’78 thru ’83 Colt & Plymouth Champ (front wheel drive) all models ’78 thru ’87

*30034 *30035 *30040 *30041 *30045 30050 *30055 *30060 *30065

Daytona & Chrysler Laser ’84 thru ’89 Intrepid - see CHRYSLER (25025) Neon all models 95 thru ’97 Omni & Plymouth Horizon ’78 thru ’90 Pick-ups all full-size models ’74 thru ’93 Pick-ups all full-size models ‘94 thru ‘96 Ram 50/D50 Pick-ups & Raider and Plymouth Arrow Pick-ups ’79 thru ’93 Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler rear wheel drive ’71 thru ’89 Shadow & Plymouth Sundance ’87 thru’94 Spirit & Plymouth Acclaim ’89 thru’95 Vans - Dodge & Plymouth ’71 thru ’96

*36051 36054 36058 36059 36062 36066 36070 *36071 36074 *36075 *36078 36082 *36086 36090 *36094 *36097

Talon - see Mitsubishi Eclipse (68030) Vision - see CHRYSLER (25025)

Ford Automatic Transmission Overhaul Aerostar Mini-vans all models ’86 thru 96 Contour & Mercury Mystique '95 thru 98 Courier Pick-up all models ’72 thru ’82 Crown Victoria & Mercury Grand Marquis ’88 thru ’96 Ford Engine Overhaul Manual Escort/Mercury Lynx all models ’81 thru ’90 Escort/Mercury Tracer ’91 thru ’96 Explorer & Mazda Navajo ’91 thru ’95 Fairmont & Mercury Zephyr ’78 thru ’83 Festiva & Aspire ’88 thru 97 Fiesta all models ’77 thru ’80 Ford & Mercury Full-size, Ford LTD & Mercury Marquis (’75 thru ’82); Ford Custom 500,Country Squire, Crown ~ Victoria & Mercury Colony Park (’75 thru ’87); Ford LTD Crown Victoria & Mercury Gran Marquis (’83 thru ’87) Granada & Mercury Monarch ’75 thru ’80

Ford & Mercury Mid-size, Ford Thunderbird & Mercury Cougar (’75 thru 82); Ford LTD & Mercury Marquis (’83 thru ’86); Ford Torino,Gran Torino, Elite, Ranchero pick-up, LTD II, Mercury Montego, Comet, XR-7 & Lincoln Versailles (’75 thru ’86) Mustang V8 all models ’64-1/2 thru ’73 Mustang Il 4 cyl, V6 & V8 models 74 thru ’78 Mustang & Mercury Capri all models Mustang, ’79 thru ’93; Capri, ’79 thru ’86 Mustang all models ’94 thru ’97 Pick-ups & Bronco ’73 thru ’79 Pick-ups & Bronco ’80 thru ’96 Pick-ups, Expedition & Mercury Navigator ’97 thru ’98 Pinto & Mercury Bobcat ’75 thru ’80 Probe all models ’89 thru ’92

Ranger/Bronco Il gasoline models ’83 thru ’92 Ranger ‘93 thru ‘97 & Mazda Pick-ups ‘94 thru ‘97 Taurus & Mercury Sable ’86 thru ’95 Taurus & Meréury Sable ’96 thru 98 Tempo & Mercury Topaz ’84 thru ’94 Thunderbird/Mercury Cougar '83 thru ’88 Thunderbird/Mercury Cougar ’89 and ’97 Vans all V8 Econoline models ’69 thru ’91 Vans full size ’92-’95 Windstar Mini-van ’95-’98

GENERAL MOTORS *10360 *38005 *38010

*38015 *38016 38020 38025 030

*38035

EAGLE

FIAT 34010 , 34025

36048 36049 36050

Dakota Pick-ups all models ’87 thru ’96 Dart, Demon, Plymouth Barracuda,

Duster & Valiant 6 cyl models 67 thru ’76 *30030

36040 36044

Chrysler Engine Overhaul Manual

DODGE *30008 30010

10320 36016 *36020 *36024 36028 36030 36032 36036

Chrysler Cirrus, Dodge Stratus, Plymouth Breeze ‘95 thru ‘98. Chrysler Concorde, New Yorker & LHS, Dodge Intrepid, Eagle Vision, ‘93 thru ‘97

DATSUN 28005 28007 28009 28012 28014

FORD 10355 *36004 *36006 36008 36012

GM Automatic Transmission Overhaul Buick Century, Chevrolet Celebrity, Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera & Pontiac 6000 all models ’82 thru ’96 Buick Regal, Chevrolet Lumina, Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme & Pontiac Grand Prix front-wheel drive models 88 thru ’95 Buick Skyhawk, Cadillac Cimarron, Chevrolet Cavalier, Oldsmobile Firenza & Pontiac J-2000 & Sunbird ’82 se oae Chevrolet Cavalier & Pontiac Sunfire ’95 thru ’98 Buick Skylark, Chevrolet Citation, Olds Omega, Pontiac Phoenix ’80 thru ’85 Buick Skylark & Somerset, Oldsmobile Achieva & Calais and : Pontiac Grand Am all models ’85 thru ’95 Cadillac Eldorado ’71 thru ’85, : Seville ’80 thru ’85, Oldsmobile Toronado ’71 thru ’85 & Buick Riviera ’79 thru ’85 Chevrolet Lumina APV, Olds Silhouette & Pontiac Trans Sport all models ’90 thru 95 General Motors Full-size Rear-wheel Drive - see BUICK (19025)

124 Sport Coupe & Spider ’68 thru ’78 X1/9 all models ’74 thru ’80

¢

(Continued on other side)

* Listings shown with an asterisk (*) indicate model coverage as of this printing. These titles will be periodically updated to include later model years - consult your Haynes dealer for more information.

Haynes North America, Inc., 861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, CA 91320-1514

(805) 498-6703

Haynes Automotive

Manuals (continued)

NOTE: New manuals are added to this list on a periodic basis. If you do not see a listing for your vehicle, consult your local Haynes dealer for the latest product information. TRIUMPH

MITSUBISHI Metro - see CHEVROLET Sprint (24075) Prizm - ’85 thru 92 see CHEVY (24060), : 93 thru ’96 see TOYOTA Corolla (92036) *40030 Storm all models ’90 thru ’93

Tracker - see SUZUKI Samurai (90010)

*68030 *68040

Cordia, Mirage Eclipse, Pick-up

Tredia, Galant, Precis & ’83 thru ’93 Eagle Talon & Ply. Laser ’90 thru 94 ’83 thru 96 & Montero ’83 thru ’93

72010

Safari - see CHEVROLET ASTRO (24010) Vans & Pick-ups - see CHEVROLET

HONDA 42010 Accord CVCC all models ’76 thru ’83 i _ Accord all models ’84 thru ’89 Accord all models ’90 thru ’93 Accord all models ’94 thru ’95 Civic 1200 all models ’73 thru ’79

Civic 1300 & 1500 CVCC ’80 thru ’83 Civic 1500 CVCE all models ’75 thru ’79 . Civic all models ’84 thru ’91

94007 94010

300ZX all models including Turbo ’84 thru ’89

*72015 *72020

Altima all models ’93 thru ’97 Maxima all models ’85 thru ’91

*72030

Pick-ups ’80 thru 96 Pathfinder ’87 thru ’95

72040 *72050 *72051 *72060

Pulsar Sentra Sentra Stanza

all models all models & 200SX all models

’83 thru ’86 ’82 thru ’94 all models ’95 thru ’98 ’82 thru ’90

Spitfire all models ’62 thru ’81 TR7 all models ’75 thru ’81

Vw 96008

NISSAN

haat os ;

*68020

Beetle & Karmann Ghia ’54 thru ’79

96012. *96016

Dasher all gasoline models 74 thru ’81 Rabbit, Jetta, Scirocco, & Pick-up gas

96017 96020 96030

models ’74 thru ’91 & Convertible ’80 thru ’92 Golf & Jetta all models ’93 thru ’97 Rabbit, Jetta & Pick-up diesel ’77 thru ’84 Transporter 1600 all models ’68 thru ’79

96035

Transporter 1700, 1800 & 2000 '72 thru ’79

96040

Type 3 1500 & 1600 all models ’63 thru ’73

96045

Vanagon all air-cooled models ’80 thru ’83

VOLVO

OLDSMOBILE *73015

Cutlass V6 & V8 gas models ’74 thru ’88 For other OLDSMOBILE titles, see BUICK, CHEVROLET or GENERAL MOTORS listing.

Civic & del Sol ’92 thru ’95 Prelude CVCC all models ’79 thru ’89

« 97010 97015 *97020 97025 *97040

120, 140 240 260 740

130 Series & 1800 Sports ’61 thru ’73 Series all models 66 thru ’74 Series all models ’76 thru ’93 Series all models ’75 thru ’82 & 760 Series all models ’82 thru ’88

PLYMOUTH For PLYMOUTH titles, see DODGE listing.

43015 Excel all models ’86 thru ’94

TECHBOOK PONTIAC

7017 ‘

Hombre - see CHEVROLET S-10 (24071) Rodeo ’91 thru ’97; Amigo ’89 thru ’94; Honda Passport ’95 thru ’97 Trooper& Pick-up, all gasoline models Pick-up, ’81 thru ’93; Trooper, ’84 thru ’91

79008 79018 79019

Fiero all models ’84 thru ’88 Firebird V8 models except Turbo ’70 thru ’81 Firebird all models ’82 thru ’92 For other PONTIAC titles, see BUICK, CHEVROLET or GENERAL MOTORS listing.

PORSCHE XJ6 all 6 cyl models ’68 thru ’86

XJ6 all models ’88 thru 94 XJ12 & XJS all 12 cyl models ’72 thru ’85

Cherokee, Comanche & Wagoneer Limited all models ’84 thru ’96 ‘ CJ all models ’49 thru ’86 Grand Cherokee all models 93 thru ’98 Grand Wagoneer & Pick-up ’72 thru ’91 Grand Wagoneer ’84 thru 91, Cherokee &

es Mrs *

*80020 80025 80030 *80035

911 914 924 944

except Turbo & Carrera 4 ’65 thru ’89 all 4 cyl models ’69 thru ’76 all models including Turbo ’76 thru ’82 all models including Turbo ’83 thru ’89

RENAULT Alliance & Encore - see AMC (14020)

SAAB *84010

900 all models including Turbo ’79 thru ’88

» Wagoneer ’72 thru ’83, Pick-up ’72 thru ’88

_ *50030

Wrangler all models ’87 thru ’95

LINCOLN G ar

Navigator - see FORD Pick-up (36059)

___ §9010 Rear Wheel Drive all models ’70 thru ’96

SATURN 87010

Saturn all models ’91 thru ’96

SUBARU , 89002 1100, 1300, 1400 & 1600 ’71 thru ’79 *89003 1600 & 1800 2WD & 4WD’80 thru 94

) GLC Hatchback (rear wheel drive) '77 thru ’83

GLC (front wheel drive) ’81 thru ’85 323 & Protogé ’90 thru ’97 MX-5 Miata ’90 thru ’97 MPV all models ’89 thru ’94 Navajo - see Ford Explorer (36024) Pick-ups ’72 thru ’93 Pick-ups ’94 thru ’96 - see Ford Ranger (36071)

i

61035 ~ *61036 61040 “61041 gk ty ene

RX-7 all models ’79 thru ’85 RX-7 all models ’86 thru 91 626 (rear wheel drive) all models ’79 thru ’82 626/MX-6 (front wheel drive) ’83 thru ’91

MERCEDES-BENZ a 63012 123 Series Diesel ’76 thru ’85 *63015 190 Series four-cyl gas models, ’84 thru Ca

; ts

@

63020 63025 63030

_

230/250/280 6 cyl sohc models ’68 thru ’7 280 123 Series gasoline models ’77 thru ’81 350 & 450 all models ’71 thru ’80

MERCURY Riser, EEE

See FORD Listing.

MG

ay

66010 66015

ay Wiea

“ANE

a

MGB Roadster & GT Coupe ’62 thru ’80 MG Midget, Austin Healey Sprite ’58 thru 80

SUZUKI *90010

Samurai/Sidekick & Geo Tracker ’86 thru 96

92005 92006 92015 *92020 92025 92030 92032 92035

_*92036

92040 92045 92050 92055 92056 *92065 92070 *92075 *92076 *92080 92085

Camry Camry Celica Celica Celica Corolla Corolla Corolla

all models ’83 thru ’91 all models ’92 thru ’96 Rear Wheel Drive ’71 thru '85 Front Wheel Drive ’86 thru ’93 Supra all models ’79 thru ’92 all models '75 thru ’79 all rear wheel drive models ’80 thru '87 all front wheel drive models ’84 thru ’92

Corolla & Geo Prizm ’93 thru '97

Corolla Tercel all models ’80 thru ’82 Corona all models '74 thru ’82 Cressida all models ’78 thru '82 Land Cruiser FJ40, 43, 45, 55 ’68 thru ’82 Land Cruiser FJ60, 62, 80, FZJ80 ’80 thru ’96 MR2 all models ’85 thru ’87

Pick-up all models ’69 thru ’78 Pick-up all models '79 thru ’95 Tacomi ’95 thru 98, 4Runner ’96 thru ’98, & T100 '93 thru ’98 Previa all models ’91 thru 95 Tercel all models ’87 thru ’94

MANUALS

Automotive Computer Codes Automotive Emissions Control Manual Fuel Injection Manual, 1978 thru 1985 Fuel Injection Manual, 1986 thru 1996 Holley Carburetor Manual Rochester Carburetor Manual Weber/Zenith/Stromberg/SU Carburetors Chevrolet Engine Overhaul Manual Chrysler Engine Overhaul Manual Ford Engine Overhaul Manual GM and Ford Diesel Engine Repair Manual

10340

Small Engine Repair Manual

10345 10355 10360 10405 10410

Suspension, Steering & Driveline Manual Ford Automatic Transmission Overhaul GM Automatic Transmission Overhaul Automotive Body Repair & Painting Automotive Brake Manual

10415

Automotive Detaiing Manual

10420 10425 10430 10435 10440 10445 10450

Automotive Eelectrical Manual Automotive Heating & Air Conditioning Automotive Reference Manual & Dictionary Automotive Tools Manual Used Car Buying Guide Welding Manual ATV Basics

SPANISH 98903 98905 98910 98915 99040

TOYOTA

“* Listings shown with an asterisk (*) indicate model coverage as of this printing. These titles will be periodically updated to include later model years - consult your Haynes dealer for more information.

Hote RS * eek

10205 10210 10215 10220 10225 10230 10240 10305 10310 10320 10330

99041

:

MANUALS

Reparacion de Carroceria & Pintura Cédigos Automotrices de la Computadora Frenos Automotriz Inyeccién de Combustible 1986 al 1994 Chevrolet & GMC Camionetas ’67 al '87 Incluye Suburban, Blazer & Jimmy ’67 al ’91 Chevrolet & GMC Camionetas ’88 al ’95

99055 99075

Incluye Suburban ’92 al '95, Blazer & Jimmy ’92 al ’94, Tahoe y Yukon ’95 Chevrolet & GMC Camionetas Cerradas ‘68 al ‘95 Dodge Caravan & Plymouth Voyager '84 al 95 Ford Camionetas y Bronco ’80 al '94

99077

Ford Camionetas Cerradas ‘69 al ‘91

99083 99088

Ford Modelos de Tamafio Grande ‘75 al ‘87 Ford Modelos de Tamajfio Mediano ‘75 al ‘86

99042

99091

Ford Taurus & Mercury Sable ’86 al 95 _

99095 99100 99110

GM Modelos de Tamafio Grande ‘70 al ‘90 GM Modelos de Tamafio Mediano ‘70 al ‘88 Nissan Camionetas ‘80 al ‘96, Pathfinder ‘87 al ‘95 Nissan Sentra ‘82 al ‘94 Toyota Camionetas y 4Runner '79.al '95

99118 99125

x

Over 100 Haynes motorcycle manuals also available

5-98

~Common

spark plug conditions -NORMAL Symptoms: Brown to grayish-tan color and slight electrode wear. Correct heat range for engine and operating conditions. Recommendation: When new spark plugs are installed, replace with plugs of the same heat range.

a TOO HOT

WORN

Symptoms: Blistered, white insulator, eroded electrode and absence of deposits. Results in shortened plug life. Recommendation: Check for the correct plug heat range, overadvanced ignition timing, lean fuel mixture, intake manifold vacuum leaks, sticking valves and insuffi-

Symptoms: Rounded electrodes with a small amount of deposits on the firing end. Normal color. Causes hard starting in damp or cold weather and poor fuel economy. Recommendation: Plugs have been left in the engine too long. Replace with new plugs of the same heat range. Follow the recommended maintenance schedule.

cient engine cooling. ”

CARBON

PREIGNITION

DEPOSITS

Symptoms: Dry sooty deposits indicate a rich mixture or weak ignition. Causes misfiring, hard starting and hesitation. Recommendation: Make sure the

plug has the correct heat range.

Check for a clogged air filter or problem in the fuel system or engine management system. Also check for ignition system problems.

ASH DEPOSITS Symptoms:

Light brown

deposits

encrusted on the side or center electrodes or both. Derived from oil and/or fuel additives. Excessive amounts may mask the spark, causing misfiring and hesitation during acceleration. Recommendation: _ If excessive deposits accumulate over a short time or low mileage, install new valve guide seals to prevent seepage of oil into the combustion chambers. Also try changing gasoline brands.

Symptoms: Melted electrodes. Insulators are white, but may be dirty due to misfiring or flying debris in the combustion chamber. Can lead to engine damage. Recommendation: Check for the correct plug heat range, over-

advanced ignition timing, lean fuel mixture, insufficient engine cooling and lack of lubrication.

HIGH SPEED GLAZING Symptoms: |nsulator has yellowish, glazed appearance. Indicates that combustion chamber temper-

atures have risen suddenly during hard acceleration. Normal deposits melt to form a conductive coating. Causes misfiring at high speeds. Recommendation: Install new plugs. Consider using a colder plug if driving habits warrant. ‘

DETONATION Symptoms:

OIL DEPOSITS Symptoms: Oily coating caused by poor oil control. Oil is leaking past worn valve guides or piston rings into the combustion chamber. Causes hard starting, misfiring and hesitation. Recommendation: Correct the mechanical condition with necessary repairs and install new plugs.

Insulators

may

be

cracked or chipped. Improper gap setting techniques can also result in a fractured insulator tip. Can lead to piston damage. Recommendation: Make sure the fuel anti-knock values meet engine requirements.

Use care when

set-

ting the gaps on new plugs. Avoid lugging the engine.

MECHANICAL DAMAGE Symptoms:

GAP BRIDGING Symptoms:

Combustion

deposits

lodge between the electrodes. Heavy deposits accumulate and bridge the electrode gap. The plug ceases to fire, resulting in a dead cylinder. Recommendation: Locate the faulty plug and remove the deposits from between the electrodes.

May be caused

by a

foreign object in the combustion chamber or the piston striking an incorrect reach (too long) plug. Causes a dead cylinder and could result in piston damage. Recommendation: Repair the mechanical damage. Remove the foreign object from the engine and/or install the correct reach plug.

‘Routine maintenance Tune-up procedures Engine repair

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Wiringdiagrams

Chapter 2 PartB

Engine

san maces

linked to hundreds

of the distributor drive

adapter assembly

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DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE ADAPTOR

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screwdriver and a claw hammer

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a camshaft seal, drill a To extract couple of small holes in the old seal,

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© Color 9.7a You can press a new seal into place with a section of pipe and a bolt of the proper size and thread

pitch (don't let the

camshaft turn as the bolt is tightened)

. ja 3 als a cam seal into place witha hammer and a large socket,

but make

sure you don't

damage the sprocket positioning pin on

make sure as poir

the adjuster that’ orresponding 19 away

from the

(closed valve)

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the end of the camshaft

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