Haynes Chevrolet Silverado & GMC Sierra Automotive Repair Manual 1563924463, 9781563924460

Citation preview

Chevrolet Silverado

GMC Sierra

1999 thru 2001 co 2WD and 4wp |

(Gasoline engines O Includes Chevrolet Suburban and Tahoe, (GMC Yukon and Yukon XL (2000 and 2001)

Haynes Repair Manual Based on a complete teardown and rebuild

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“Cyrene

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Includes essential information for today’s more complex vehicles

SAN BRUNO PUBLIC LIBRARY 701 Angus Avenue West San Bruno, CA 94066

Contents Introductory pages About this manual Introduction to Chevrolet Silverado/GMC Sierra pick-ups & Chevrolet Tahoe/Suburban & GMC Yukon/Yukon XL SUVs Vehicle identification numbers

0 0 oa 0-5 0-6

Buying parts

0-8

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

0-8

Anti-theft audio system Booster battery (jump) starting

Jacking and towing

0-16 0-17

‘s

0-18

Automotive chemicals and lubricants" Conversion factors Safety first! Troubleshooting

0-19 0-20 0-21 0-22

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

Chapter2

PartA

V6 engine

Chapter2

2A-1

PartB

V8 engines

Chapter 2

1-1

2B-1

Part C

General engine overhaul procedures

2C-1

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

3-1

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

4-1

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

5-1

Chapter 6 Emissions and engine control systems

6-1

Chapter 7

PartA

Manual transmission

Chapter 7

PartB

Automatic transmission

Chapter 7

TA-1

7B-1

Part C

Transfer case

7C-1

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveline

8-1

Chapter 9 Brakes

9-1

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

10-1

Chapter 11 Body

11-1

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

Wiring diagrams Index

12-1

12-22

Haynes author, photographer and mechanic with 2000 Chevrolet Silverado pick-up

0-5

About this manual Its purpose The purpose of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you

decide what work must be done, even if you choose to have it done by a dealer service department or a repair shop; it provides information and procedures for routine maintenance and servicing; and it offers diagnostic and repair procedures to follow when trouble

occurs. We hope you use the manual to tackle the work yourself. For many simpler jobs, doing it yourself may be quicker than arranging an appointment to get the vehicle into a shop and making the trips to leave it and pick it up. More importantly, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the expense the shop

must pass on to you to cover its labor and overhead costs. An added benefit is the sense of satisfaction and accomplishment that you feel after doing the job yourself.

Using the manual The manual is divided into Chapters. Each Chapter is divided into numbered Sections, which are headed in bold type between horizontal lines. Each Section consists of consecutively numbered paragraphs.

At the beginning of each numbered Section you will be referred to any illustrations which apply to the procedures in that Section. The reference numbers used in illustration captions pinpoint the pertinent Section and the Step within that Section. That is, illustration 3.2 means the illustration refers to Section 3 and Step (or paragraph) 2 within

that Section. Procedures, once described in the text, are not normally repeated. When it’s necessary to refer to another Chapter, the reference will be given as Chapter and Section number. Cross references given without use of the word “Chapter” apply to Sections and/or paragraphs in the same Chapter. For example, “see Section 8” means in the same

Chapter. References to the left or right side of the vehicle assume you are sitting in the driver’s seat, facing forward. Even though we have prepared this manual with extreme care, neither the pub-

lisher nor the author can accept responsibility for any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

NOTE A Note provides information necessary to properly complete a procedure or information which will make the procedure easier to understand.

CAUTION A Caution provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the Caution is found. Not heeding a Caution can result in damage to the assembly being worked on.

WARNING A Warning provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the Warning is found. Not heeding a Warning can result in personal injury.

Introduction to Chevrolet Silverado/GMC

Sierra pick-ups and Chevrolet Tahoe/

Suburban/GMC Yukon/Yukon XL SUVs The 1999 and later model year Silverado and Sierra models, while similar in appear-

ance to earlier models, are a new design.

Pick-ups are available as standard two-door bodies, or with a third (smaller) door behind the right passenger door, and an optional fourth door behind the driver’s door on extended-cab models. The sport utility models, introduced in 2000, are all four-doors, with either a liftgate or optional twin doors at the rear. Engines are either V6 or V8, equipped with electronic, sequential multiport fuel injection. The chassis layout is conventional with

the engine mounted at the front and the power being transmitted through either a four-speed automatic or five-speed manual transmission or driveshaft to the rear axle. On 4WD models a transfer case transmits the power to the front differential and then to the front wheels through independent driveaxles. These models feature independent front suspension with coil springs (2WD pick-up models) or torsion bars (4WD pick-ups and all SUV models) and shock absorbers at the front. At the rear, all models have a solid rear axle supported by leaf springs and shock absorbers on pick-ups and 2500 series SUV

models, and coil springs with shock absorbers on 1500 series SUV models. The power-assisted steering is either rack-and-pinion (2WD 1500 pick-ups) or conventional recirculating ball type (all other models). The rack-and-pinion steering unit is mounted in front of the engine and the conventional steering box is located on the leftside frame rail. All models have a power assisted disctype front and rear brake system with Antilock Brake System (ABS) standard.

Vehicle identification numbers Vehicle identification numbers Modifications are a continuing and unpublicized process in vehicle manufactur-

ing. Since spare parts manuals and lists are compiled on a numerical basis, the individual vehicle numbers are essential to correctly identify the component required.

Vehicle Identification Number

(VIN) The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN), which appears on the Vehicle Certificate of Title and Registration, is also embossed on a gray plate located on the upper left (driver’s side) corner of the dashboard, near the windshield (see illustration). The VIN tells you when and where a vehicle was manufactured, its country of origin, make, type, passenger safety system, line, series, body style, engine and assembly plant.

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VIN engine and model! year codes Two particularly important pieces of information found in the VIN are the engine code and the model year code. Counting from the left, the engine code letter designation is the 8th character and the model year code is the 10th character. On the model years covered by this manual the engine codes are:

NI a ach oe UR VERT co Ute See eee Tee eee ee: Witsatie fat eres

4.8L 6.0L. 5.3L 4.3L

V8 V8 V8 V6

(LR4) (LQ4) (LM7) (L35)

On the models covered by this manual the model year codes are:

» ee ernst aA1999 NY Sigeencacierenke 2000 lipelemetvorenes 2001

yeee

pst

Pe eese

Vehicle Safety Certification . label The Vehicle Safety Certification label is attached to the rear edge of the driver’s door (see illustration). The label contains the name of the manufacturer, the month and year of production, the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) and the certification statement. On most models, the label! also includes the

OEM tire sizes and pressures.

Service Parts Identification label Located on the inside of the glove compartment lid, this label contains information about the options on your vehicle and the paint and trim cades (see illustration). This information is important when ordering parts

or when bodywork and repainting is done.

LOIS

RE tA

The VIN plate is visible from the outside of the vehicle, through the driver’s side of the windshield

The Vehicle Safety Certification label is affixed to the drivers side door end or post ‘

Vehicle identification numbers

2GGEC VOT AY ANT ‘

SEC OWRIN'S MANUAL HOR UaRK

tieN

The Service Parts Identification label (arrow) contains information on options and trim/paint codes

On V8 engines the identification number (arrow) is located at the left rear of the engine (seen here from below)

Typical automatic transmission identification number locations

Location of the transfer case identification tag

Engine Identification Number (EIN) The V8 Engine Identification Number (EIN) is stamped into the rear of the engine block just below the left cylinder head (see

illustration). On V6 engines the EIN is located either on the block below the left cylinder head or on the rear of the block near the right side cylinder head.

Transmission Identification

Number (TIN) The manual Transmission Identification Number (TIN) is located on a tag or label on top of the left end of transmission housing. On automatic transmissions the TIN is stamped into the transmission case (see illustration).

Transfer case identification label The transfer case identification information is on a tag affixed to the rear side of the case (see illustration).

0-8

Buying parts Replacement parts are available from many sources, which generally fall into one of two categories - authorized dealer parts departments and independent retail auto parts stores. Our advice concerning these parts is as follows: Retail auto parts stores: Good auto parts stores will stock frequently needed

components which wear out relatively fast, such as clutch components, exhaust sys-

parts on an exchange basis, which can save a considerable amount of money. Discount auto parts stores are often very good places to buy materials and parts needed for general vehicle maintenance such as oil, grease, filters, spark plugs, belts, touch-up paint, bulbs, etc. They also usually sell tools and general accessories, have convenient nours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home.

tems, brake parts, tune-up parts, etc. These stores often supply new or reconditioned

Authorized dealer parts department: This is the best source for parts which are

unique to the vehicle and not generally available elsewhere (such as major engine parts, transmission parts, trim pieces, etc.). Warranty information: \f the vehicle is still covered under warranty, be sure that any replacement parts purchased - regardless of the source - do not invalidate the warranty!

To be sure of obtaining the correct parts,

have engine

and

chassis

numbers

available and, if possible, take the old parts along for positive identification.

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities NP

Maintenance techniques There are a number of techniques involved in maintenance and repair that wil be referred to throughout this manual. Application of these techniques will enable the home mechanic to be more efficient, better organized and capable of performing the various tasks properly, which will ensure that the repair job is thorough and complete.

Fasteners Fasteners screws

used

are nuts, bolts, studs to hold

two

or more

and parts

together. There are a few things to keep in mind when working with fasteners. Almost all of them use a locking device of some type, either a lockwasher, locknut, locking tab or thread adhesive. All threaded fasteners should be clean and straight, with undamaged threads and undamaged corners on the

hex head where the wrench fits. Develop the habit of replacing all damaged nuts and bolts with new ones. Special locknuts with nylon or fiber inserts can only be used once. If they are removed, they lose their locking ability and must be replaced with new ones. Rusted nuts and bolts should be treated

with a penetrating fluid to ease removal and prevent breakage. Some mechanics use turpentine in a spout-type oil can, which works quite well. After applying the rust penetrant, let it work for a few minutes before trying to loosen the nut or bolt. Badly rusted fasteners may have to be chiseled or sawed off or removed with a special nut breaker, available at tool stores. lf a bolt or stud breaks off in an assembly, it can be drilled and removed with a special tool commonly available for this purpose. Most automotive machine shops can perform

this task, as well as other repair procedures, such as the repair of threaded holes that have been-stripped out. Flat washers and lockwashers, when removed from an assembly, should always be replaced exactly as removed. Replace any damaged washers with new ones. Never use a lockwasher on any soft metal surface (such as alumirtum), thin sheet metai or plastic.

Fastener sizes For a number of reasons, automobile manufacturers are making wider and wider use of metric fasteners. Therefore, it is important to be able to tell the difference between standard (sometimes called U.S. or SAE) and metric hardware, since they cannot be interchanged. All bolts, whether standard or metric, are sized according to diameter, thread pitch and

0-9

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities length. For example, a standard 1/2 - 13 x 1 bolt is 1/2 inch in diameter, has 13 threads per inch and is 1 inch long. An M12 - 1.75 x 25 metric bolt is 12 mm in diameter, has a thread pitch of 1.75 mm (the distance between threads) and is 25 mm long. The two bolts are nearly identical, and easily confused, but they are not interchangeable. In addition to the differences in diameter, thread pitch and length, metric and standard bolts can also be distinguished by examining the bolt heads. To begin with, the

distance across the flats on a standard bolt head is measured in inches, while the same dimension on a metric bolt is sized in millimeters (the same is true for nuts). As a result, a standard wrench should not be used on a metric bolt anda metric wrench should not be used on a standard bolt. Also, most stan-

dard bolts have slashes radiating out from the center of the head to denote the grade or strength of the bolt, which is an indication of the amount of torque that can be applied to it. The greater the number of slashes, the greater the strength of the bolt. Grades 0 * through 5 are commonly used on automobiles. Metric bolts have a property class (grade) number, rather than a slash, molded into their heads to indicate bolt strength. In this case, the higher the number, the stronger the bolt. Property class numbers 8.8, 9.8 and 10.9 are commonly used on automobiles. Strength markings can also be used to distinguish standard hex nuts from metric hex nuts. Many standard nuts have dots stamped into one side, while metric nuts are marked with a number. The greater the number of dots, or the higher the number, the

Grade 10 r2

Grade 5

greater the strength of the nut. Metric studs are also marked on their ends according to property class (grade). Larger studs are numbered (the same as metric bolts), while smaller studs carry a geometric code to denote grade. It should be noted that many fasteners,

especially Grades 0 through 2, have no distinguishing marks on them. When such is the case, the ofly way to determine whether it is standard or metric is to measure the thread pitch or compare it to a Known fastener of the same size. Standard fasteners are often referred to

as SAE, as opposed to metric. However, it should be noted that SAE technically refers to a non-metric fine thread fastener only. Coarse thread non-metric fasteners are referred to as USS sizes.

Grade 8

Bolt strength marking (standard/SAE/USS; bottom - metric)

Grade _ Identification

Grade

Hex Nut Grade 5

Property

identification

Hex Nut Class 9

Arabic 9 sian Hex Nut

Hex Nut Grade 8

Property / Class 10

6 Dots Standard hex nut

strength markings

Class 10.9

Class 9.8

Class 8.8

Arabic 10

Metric hex nut strength markings

Metric stud strength markings 00-1 HAYNES

0-10 RSE

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities SSE SS,SERRE SESES SSSEPA SS REE

SDE SE

SPA

ABS

Since fasteners of the same size (both standard and metric) may have different strength ratings, be sure to reinstall any bolts, studs or nuts removed from your vehicle in their original locations. Also, when replacing a fastener with a new one, make sure that the new one has a strength rating equal to or greater than the original.

Tightening sequences and procedures Most threaded fasteners should be tightened to a specific torque value (torque is the twisting force applied to a threaded com-

RD

IT

SSS

SESS

SS

ESS SPS

ARP

ponent such as a nut or bolt). Overtightening the fastener can weaken it and cause it to

break, while undertightening can cause it to eventually come loose. Bolts, screws and studs, depending on the material they are made of and their thread diameters, have specific torque values, many of which are noted in the Specifications at the beginning of each Chapter. Be sure to follow the torque recommendations closely. For fasteners not assigned a specific torque, a general torque value chart is presented here as a guide. These torque values are for dry (unlubricated) fasteners threaded into steel or cast iron (not

EEO

PES

Pipe thread sizes AE As Ge ae eee see Non, «i ee ee RAs er ee OT hs gt, Sea a)As Waar eee Sk ah Heo! Selene a NR AEE YS Ae Eo, o's Aa lg UR I oe 2

5 to 8 12 to 18 22 to 33 25 to 35

U.S. thread sizes DAS BO Rae ores are) Ca oka) oe BAG Phiten ee BMEOA SA Leta eats Gee a hen ies | one oe AR enn eo, Re Deanne ta ae CAS oI | PAR a ee A SU ORR ViROtt Ae... eee 2: =e ee a ANG: SO) ee cree ie tort UR ko 2 1/2 eae oe aside, oN RN ont

6 to9 12 to 18 14 to 20 22 to 32 27 to 38 40 to 55 40 to 60 55 to 80

A

ECE

eee

eee

Nm

9 to 12 19 to 28 38 to 54 68 to 96 109 to 154

7 to 10

17 to 24 30 to 44 34 to 47

9 to 12

17 to 24 19 to 27 | 30 to 43° Beto

55 to 74 55 to 81 75 to 108

T—>|| Remove the wheels. 2 Remove the tie-rod ends from the tierods (see Section 20). 3 Remove the tie-rod end jam nuts. Warning: The manufacturer recommends replacing the jam nuts with new ones whenever they are removed. 4 Remove the outer boot clamps with a pair of pliers, then cut off the inner boot clamps and discard them (see illustration). 5S Mark the location of the breather tube (if

used) in relation to the rack assembly, then remove the boots and the tube.

Chapter 10

Suspension and steering systems

silts

21.4 The outer clamp (A) on the steering gear boot can be squeezed and removed with a pair of pliers; the inner clamp (B) must be cut off

6 Install a new clamp on the inner end of the boot. 7 Apply multi-purpose grease to groove

on the tie-rod (where the outer end of the boot will ride) and the mounting grooves on the steering gear (where the inner boot end will be clamped). 8 Line up the breather tube with the marks made during removal and slide the new boot onto the steering gear housing. Q Make sure the boot isn’t twisted, then tighten the new inner clamp.

10

Install the outer clamps and tie-rod end

jam nuts. 11 Install the tie-rod ends (see Section 20).

12 13

Install the steering gear assembly. Have the front end alignment checked

and, if necessary, adjusted.

22.4 Try to move the tie-rod in-and-out of th e relay rod - if there is more than 1/32-inch of play between the tie-rod and relay rod, replace the relay rod assembly

try to push them together and pull them apart (see illustration). If there is more than 1/32-

inch of play, replace the relay rod/tie-rod assembly. Now push up and pull down on the tie-rod end; if it moves more than 1/8-inch, replace the tie-rod end. 5 Push up, then pull down on the relay rod end of the idler arm, exerting a force of approximately 25 pounds each way. Measure the total distance the end of the arm travels. If the play is greater than 5/64-inch, replace the idler arm. 6 Check for torn ballstud boots and bent or damaged linkage components.

Removal and installation Tie-rod end 7

Refer to Section 20 for the tie-rod end

replacement procedure.

22

Steering linkage - inspection, removal and installation

Note: This Section applies to all models except those with rack-and-pinion steering.

Inspection Refer to illustration 22.4 The steering linkage (see illustration 1 1.1b) connects the steering gear to the front wheels and keeps the wheels in proper relation to each other. The linkage consists of the Pitman arm, the idler arm, the relay rod, two adjustable tie-rods and, on some models, a

steering damper. The Pitman arm, which is fastened to the steering gear shaft, moves

the relay rod back-and-forth. The relay rod is supported on the other end by a framemounted idler arm. The back-and-forth motion of the relay rod is transmitted to the steering knuckles through a pair of tie-rod assemblies. Unlock the steering wheel. 2 Raise the front of the vehicle and sup3 port it securely with jackstands placed underneath the frame rails. Grasp the relay rod and the tie-rod and 4.

Tie-rod 8 The tie-rods are an integral part of the relay rod and cannot be replaced separately.

22.16 Remove the idler arm ballstud nut (A) and separate the ballstud from the relay rod with a puller, then remove the idler arm mounting nuts and bolts (B)

16

Loosen but do not remove the idler arm-

Relay rod

to-relay rod nut (see illustration).

9 Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Apply the parking brake. 10 Detach the tie-rod ends from the steering knuckle arms, then remove the tie-rod ends from the tie-rods (see Section 20). 11. If equipped with a steering damper, separate the damper from the relay rod. 12 Separate the relay rod from the Pitman

17 with card 18

arm. 13 Separate the relay rod from the idler arm. 14 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Use new nuts on all of the ballstuds. If the ballstuds spin when attempting to tighten the nuts, force them into the tapered holes with a large pair of pliers. Be sure to tighten all of the nuts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

Idler arm Refer to illustration 22.16 15 Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Apply the parking brake.

Separate the idler arm from the relay rod a two jaw puller. Remove the nut. Disthe nut - don’t reuse it. Remove the idler arm-to-frame bolts

(see illustration 22.16).

19 To install the idler arm, position it on the frame and install the bolts, tightening them to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 20

into the

©

relay rod and install a new nut. Tighten the nut to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. If the ballstud spins when

Insert the idler arm

ballstud

—

attempting to tighten the nut, force it into the tapered hole with a large pair of pliers.

Pitman arm Refer to illustrations 22.25 and 22.26 21 Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. 22 Remove the relay rod nut from the Pitman arm ballstud. Discard the nut - don’t reuse it.

10-18 SS

Chapter 10 SS

RSS SSG

RS

SE

SS

ERE

Suspension and steering systems A

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PSSA

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SIE I Be EE

23 Using a puller, separate the relay rod from the Pitman arm ballstud. 24 Remove the steering gear (see Section 23). 25 Remove the Pitman arm nut and washer and discard the nut - use a new one during installation (see illustration). Mark the Pitman arm and the steering gear shaft to ensure proper alignment at reassembly time (only if the same Pitman arm is going to be used). 26 Remove the Pitman arm with a Pitman arm puller or a two-jaw puller (see illustration). 27 Inspect the ballstud threads for damage. Inspect the ballstud seal for excessive wear. Clean the threads on the ballstud. 28 Installation is the reverse of removal. Make sure the marks you made on the Pitman arm and Pitman shaft are aligned, and be sure to use a new nut.

22.25 With the steering gear secured in a vise, use a prybar to hold the Pitman arm and break loose the Pitman arm nut. Be sure to mark the relationship of the Pitman arm to the steering gear shaft before pulling it off

Steering damper 29 Inspect the steering damper for fluid leakage. A slight film of fluid near the shaft seal is normal, but if there’s excessive fluid present and it’s obviously coming from the steering damper, replace the damper. 30 Inspect the steering damper bushing for excessive wear. If it’s in bad shape, replace the damper. 31. To test the damper itself, disconnect it from the relay rod. Using as much travel as possible, extend and compress the damper.

The resistance should be smooth and constant for each stroke. If any binding, dead spots or unusual noises are present, replace the damper. 32 Remove the damper ballstud-to-relay rod nut. Separate the damper from the relay rod using a small puller. 33 Remove the steering damper mounting bolt and nut, then remove the damper.

34 Installation is the reverse of removal. Warning: The manufacturer recommends using new nuts an the ballstuds during instal-

lation. Tighten the fasteners to the torque val-

ues listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

23

Steering gear - removal and installation

Warning: DO shaft to rotate or damage to As a method turning, wrap the steering place.

4

NOT allow the steering column with the steering gear removed the airbag system could occur. of preventing the shaft from the seat belt around the rim of wheel and buckle the belt in

Models with rack-and-pinion steering gear Refer to illustrations 23.3, 23.5 and 23.6

1

Loosen the front wheel lug nuts, raise

Remove the pinch bolt from the lower end of the intermediate shaft

the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Apply the parking brake. Remove the wheels. 2 Remove the under-vehicle splash shield. Also remove the skid plate bolts and the skid plate, if equipped. 3. Mark the relationship of the intermediate shaft coupler to the steering gear input shaft and remeve the pinch bolt (see illustration).

Detagh the tie-rod ends from the steer-

ing knuckles (see Section 20).

ie

23.3

22.26 Remove the Pitman arm with a Pitman arm puller (shown here) or a heavy-duty two-jaw puller

5 Position a drain pan under the steering gear. Using a flare-nut wrench, if available, unscrew the power steering pressure and

return lines from the steering gear (see illustration). Cap the lines to prevent leakage. 6 Unscrew the mounting nuts, remove the washers and slide the bolts forward into the frame. Lower the steering gear from the vehicle (see illustration). 7 Installation is the reverse of removal. Be

sure to tighten all fasteners to the torque values listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. Tighten the whee! lug nuts to the torque listed

Wk 23.5 Unscrew the pressure and return line fittings from the power steering gear

Bic

24.3

24.4

Remove the pulley from the power steering pump with a pulley removal tool

in the Chapter 1 Specifications. Check the power steering fluid level and add some,

if

necessary (see Chapter 1), then bleed the system as described in Section 25.

Models with recirculating ball steering gear Raise the front of the vehicle and sup8 port it securely on jackstands. Apply the parking brake. Remove the under-vehicle splash shield. 9

Also remove the skid plate bolts and the skid

‘ plate, if equipped. Mark the relationship of the intermediate 40 shaft coupler to the steering gear input shaft, then remove the pinch bolt from the coupler. Position a drain pan under the steering 41.

gear, then unscrew the power steering lines

from

the

steering

gear.

Use

a flare-nut

wrench, if available, to prevent rounding-off the fittings. 12 Separate the relay rod from the Pitman arm. 13 Remove the steering gear retaining bolts

dina

\

ye

oe

24.5 The power steering pump on models with V8 engines is retained by four bolts (the bolt on the back of the pump securing the bracket to the engine is not visible in this photo); on V6 models it’s retained by two nuts, both accessed from the back of the pump

from the frame rail, then detach the steering gear from the frame and remove it. 14 If you’re installing a new steering gear or a new Pitman arm, remove the Pitman arm from the steering gear sector shaft (see Section 22). 15 Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to tighten all fasteners to the torque values listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. Check the power steering fluid level and add some, if necessary (see Chapter 1), then bleed the system as described in Section 25.

24

pe

Detach the power steering pressure line (A) and return hose (B) from the lines coming out of the pump

Power steering pump - removal and installation

Removal Refer to illustrations 24.3, 24.4 and 24.5 1 Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. Caution: On models equipped with the “Theftlock” audio system, be sure the lockout feature is turned off

before performing any procedure which requires disconnecting the battery (see the information at the front of this manual). 2 Remove the radiator upper fan shroud (see Chapter 3) and the serpentine drivebelt (see Chapter 1). 3. Position a drain pan under the power steering pump. Disconnect the pressure and return hoses from the hard lines coming out of the pump (see illustration). Plug the hoses to prevent contaminants from entering. 4 Using a special power steering pump pulley remover, remove the pulley from the pump (see illustration). 5 Remove the pump mounting fasteners (see illustration) and lift the pump from the vehicle, taking care not to spill fluid on the painted surfaces.

Installation Refer to illustrations 24.8a and 24.8b 6 Position the pump in the mounting bracket and install the mounting bolts or nuts. Tighten the fasteners to the torque

10-20

Chapter 10

Suspension and steering systems

* Powe erinrean x 60 eeecee

24.8a

Press the pulley onto the shaft using a pulley installation

tool - don’t attempt to drive it on with a hammer or push it on with a traditional press!

listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 7 Connect the hoses to the pump. Tighten the fittings securely. 8 Press the pulley onto the shaft using a special pulley installer tool (see illustrations). An alternative tool can be fabricated from a long bolt, nut, washer and a socket of the same diameter as the pulley hub. Push the pulley onto the shaft until the front of the hub is flush with the shaft, but no further. 9 Install the drivebelt and fan shroud. 10 _ Fill the power steering reservoir with the recommended fluid (see Chapter 1) and bleed the system following the procedure described in the next Section.

25

Power steering system - bleeding

24.8b An alternative to the special pulley installer tool can be fabricated from a long bolt with the same thread pitch as the internal threads of the pump shaft, a nut, washer and a socket that’s the same diameter as the pulley hub

engine is at normal operating temperature. Add fluid if necessary (see Chapter 1).

26

Wheels and tires - general information

ahead position, check the power steering fluid level and, if low, add fluid until it reaches the Cold mark on the dipstick. 3 Start the engine and allow it.to run at fast idle. Recheck the fluid level and add more if necessary to reach the Cold mark on the dipstick. 4 Bleed the system by turning the wheels from side-to-side, without hitting the stops. This will work the air out of the system. Keep the reservoir full of fluid as this is done. 5 When the air is worked out of the system, return the wheels to the straight ahead position and leave the vehicle running for several more minutes before shutting it off. Recheck the fluid level. 6 Road test the vehicle to be sure the steering system is functioning normally and noise free. 7 Recheck the fluid level to be sure it’s up to the Hot mark

on the dipstick while the

the same vehicle as handling may be seriously affected. It’s recommended that tires be replaced in pairs on the same axie, but if

Refer to illustration 26.1

only one tire is being replaced, be sure it’s

Most vehicles covered by this manual are equipped with metric-size fiberglass or steel belted radial tires (see illustration), or

the same size, structure and tread design as the other. -*. Becatise tire pressure has a substantial

METRIC TIRE SIZES

P 185

/ 80 R 3

TIRE TYPE XS it Ea cera

1 Following any operation in which the power steering fluid lines have been disconnected, the power steering system must be bled to remove all air and obtain proper steering performance. 2 With the front wheels in the straight

inch-pattern light truck tires. Use of other size or type of tires may affect the ride and handling of the vehicle. Don’t mix different types of tires, such as radials and bias belted, on

SeanDIAMETER ASPECT RATIO

~ COMMERCIAL

(SECTION HEIGHT) (SECTION WIDTH) WIDTH)

SECTION WIDTH (MILLIMETERS) 185 195 205 ETC

a

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f— SECTION SECTION HEIGHT

26.1

Metric tire size code

— OS

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Chapter 10

should be balanced proper equipment.

Vertical

27

he Centerline

by a shop

with the

Front end alignment - general information

Refer to illustration 27.1 A front end alignment (see illustration) refers to the adjustments made to the front wheels so they’re in proper angular relation-

of Vehicle

he

ship to the suspension and the ground. Front wheels that are out of proper alignment not

CAMBER ANGLE (FRONT VIEW) Vertical

10-21

Suspension and steering systems

D !

Centerline of Ball

Joint Axis

FRONT

only affect steering control, but also increase tire wear. Getting the proper front wheel alignment is a very exacting process, one in which complicated and expensive machines are necessary to perform the job properly. Because of this, you should have a technician with the proper equipment perform these tasks. We will, however, use this space to give you a basic idea of what is involved with front end alignment so you can better understand the process and deal intelligently with the shop that does the work. Toe-in is the turning in of the front wheels. The purpose of a toe specification is

to ensure parallel rolling of the front wheels.

TOE-IN (TOP VIEW) 27.1

Front end alignment details

A minus B = C (degrees camber) D = degrees caster effect on handling and wear, the pressure on all tires should be checked at least once a month or before any extended trips (see Chapter 1). Wheels must be replaced if they’re bent,

dented, leak air, have elongated bolt holes, are heavily rusted, out of vertical symmetry or if the lug nuts won’t stay tight. Wheel repairs

E minus F = toe-in (measured in inches) G = toe-in (expressed in degrees) that use welding or peening are not recommended.

Tire and wheel balance is important to the overall handling, braking and performance of the vehicle. Unbalanced wheels can adversely affect handling and ride characteristics as well as tire life. Whenever a tire is installed on a wheel, the tire and wheel

In a vehicle with zero toe-in, the distance between the front edges of the wheels will be the same as the distance between the rear edges of the wheels. The actual amount of toe-in is normally only a fraction of an inch. Toe-in is adjusted by turning the tie-rod in the tie-rod end to lengthen or shorten the tie-rod. Incorrect toe-in will cause the tires to wear improperly by making them scrub against the road surface. Camber is the tilting of the front wheels from vertical when viewed from the front of the vehicle. When the wheels tilt out at the top, the camber is said to be positive (+). When the wheels tilt in at the top the camber is negative (-). The amount of tilt is measured in degrees from the vertical and this measurement is called the camber angle. This angle affects the amount of tire tread which contacts the road and compensates for changes in the suspension geometry when the vehicle is cornering or traveling over an undulating surface. Camber is adjusted by turning the upper control arm pivot bolts, one way or the other, in equal amounts. Caster is the tilting of the top of the front steering axis from vertical. A tilt toward the rear is positive caster and a tilt toward the front is negative caster. Caster is adjusted by turning the upper control arm pivot bolts, one way or the other, in opposite directions. When making adjustments to the front end alignment, the caster is set first, then the camber, then the toe-in.

10-22

Chapter 10

Suspension and steering systems

Notes

11-1

Chapter 11

Body

Contents Section

Body - Maintenance. ..........cscsccscecseerecercsceseceecessesseecersesseasesssnenasens Body repair - Major CaAMAGE ..........:cscceeceeeeeeesetseesstseeserseseseeseesseees Body repair - Minor GAMaGEe ..........scecccseeseeeeseceteceneeseeseesseseeseaeeaeens Bumpers - removal and installation ..........::scsceseecseeseeseteeeneeseeseees Center console - removal and installation............:::cccssesesseeeseeeees Cowl cover - removal and installation .............:sceeeesceeseeeseeteeetees Dashboard trim panels - removal and installation ..............:-s::s04+ Door - removal and installation ............::cccccssssseeeeeeeeteceeeeseeeteeeserees Door latch, lock cylinder and handles - removal

allatl seeteesse ccetee steer rtce ce enancece-ttectanspacvatncrasvcecesseqsceacaccors ANIC MIST Door trim panels - removal and installation ..........:::s:ssessseeseseeeeeees Door window glass - removal and installation ...........:s:.sssseeeseeees Door window glass regulator - removal and installation................ Front fender - removal and installation ...........c:scesseesereseseeseensees General information.............scssccessscssescesssesseesssscsnrseessscensscnsecenesennes Hinges and locks - MAINtENANCE...........seerecseseeeeeseeteneeeetsensanenenees

Hood - removal, installation and AGjUStMENT .............cceseeeeeeseseenes

ERD

General information 1. Ok

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Warning: The models covered by this manual are equipped with Supplemental Restraint Systems (SRS), more commonly known as airbags. Always disable the airbag system before working in the vicinity of any airbag system components to avoid the possibility of accidental deployment of the airbags, which could cause personal injury (see Chapter 12). The vehicles covered by this manual are built with body-on-frame construction. The frame is a hydroformed, ladder-type, consist-

ing of C-shaped center rails welded to boxed

front and rear sections, with both welded-in

2 6 5 12 25 14 26 16

Section 11 Hood latch and release cable - removal and installation............... Instrument panel and cowl support structure - removal 28 conssepea asec and) install attoniss.cr-cccctessotsccesasstsccsecssapcacevacccc-tecascacel Liftgate and liftgate glass (SUV models) - removal 23 tartare cssewests ectaceccrssaeserscotczenssiensuecoupvanacs ANC HINStallatlOnc.tass-ccoee Liftgate panels, lock cylinder, latch and support 24 struts (SUV models) - removal and installation............ceee 20 Mirrors - removal and installation.............ssccccessseeeceesssteeseeeeeeeeeeseees

17 15 18 19 13 1

Seats - removal and installation ..............:s:ccsssssccsseecesteeeetseeeenreerees Steering column covers - removal and installation ............::se Tailgate (pick-up models) - removal and installation ..............:00+ Tailgate latch and handle (pick-up models) - removal ANIC: IMStallathOMsscszscsccesssesecceoses-feg-scetccteseecsss LEFT

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12-46

Chapter 12

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12-48

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

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Power door lock system - SUV models, 2000 and later

Chapter 12

12-49

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Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

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