Haynes Chevrolet S-10 & Blazer, GMC Sonoma, Jimmy & Envoy, Oldsmobile Bravada, Isuzu Hombre Automotive Repair Manual 1563927284, 9781563927287

Citation preview

Chevrolet S-10 &

GMC Sonoma

ayneg)

pick-m -ups

Chevrolet S-10 & GMC Sonoma pick-ups (1994 thru 2004) Chevrolet Blazer & GMC Jimmy (1995 thru 2004)

GMC

Envoy (1998 thru 2001) Oldsmobile Bravada & Isuzu Hombre (1996 thru 2001)

Haynes Repair Manual Based on a complete teardown and rebuild

${M$efiiijsfl{information

for todpyp+rrore

complex vehicles

Chevrolet S-10& Blazer

GMC

Sonoma, Jimmy & Envoy Oldsmobile Bravada ISUZU Hombre

Automotive Repair

Manual by Robert Maddox and John H Haynes Member

of the Guild of Motoring Writers

Models covered: 1994 through 2004 Chevrolet S-10

& GMC Sonoma pick-ups GMC Jimmy

1995 through 2004 Chevrolet Blazer and 1998 through 2001

GMC

Envoy

996 through 2001 Oldsmobiie Bravada 1996 through 2000 Isuzu Hombre 1

(24071

-

5N27)

A AinXJMCTIVE iHirrsit

ACCE5SO ASSOCIATION

Haynes Publishing Group Sparkford Nr Yeovil Somerset BA22 7JJ England

Haynes North America, Inc 861 Lawrence Drive Newbury Park California

91320

USA

ABODE FGHU KLMNO PQR o

About Its

this

manual must pass on to you to cover its labor and overhead costs. An added benefit is the sense of satisfaction and accomplishment that you feel after doing the job yourself.

purpose The purpose

of this

manual

is

to help

get the best value from your vehicle.

you can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done, even if you choose to have it done by a dealer service department or a repair shop; it provides information and procedures for routine maintenance and servicing; and it offers diagnostic and repair procedures to follow when trouble

It

that Section.

Procedures, once described are not normally repeated.

When

will be given as Chapter and Section number. Cross references given without use of the word "Chapter" apply to Sections and/or paragraphs in the same Chapter. For example, "see Section 8" means in the same

The manual is divided into Chapters. Each Chapter is divided into numbered Sections, which are headed in bold type between horizontal lines. Each Section consists of consecutively numbered paragraphs. At the beginning of each numbered Section you will be referred to any illustrations which apply to the procedures in that Section. The reference numbers used in illustra-

hope you use the manual to tackle the work yourself. For many simpler jobs, doing it yourself may be quicker than arranging an appointment to get the vehicle into a

Chapter.

References to the left or right side of the assume you are sitting in the driver's

vehicle

seat, facing forward.

Even though we have prepared this manual with extreme care, neither the publisher nor the author can accept responsibility for any errors in, or omissions from, the infor-

tion captions pinpoint the pertinent Section

shop and making the trips to leave it and pick it up. More importantly, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the expense the shop

and the Step within that Section. That illustration 3.2

means

is,

mation given.

the illustration refers to

Section 3 and Step (or paragraph) 2 within

NOTE provides information necessary to properly complete a procedure or information which

will

the procedure easier to understand.

CAUTION A Caution

provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the Caution is found. Not heeding a Caution can result in damage to the assembly being worked on.

WARNING A Warning

provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the Warning is found. Not heeding a Warning can result in personal injury.

Acknowledgements who contributed to this project include Jeff Killingsworth, Jay Storer, Mike Stubblefield and Larry Warren. Wiring diagrams originated exclusively for Haynes North America, Inc. by CAD Counsel.

Technical writers

©

Haynes North America, With permission from J.H. Haynes

Inc.

& Co.

1996,1999,2001,2005,2008

Ltd.

A book in the Haynes Automotive

Repair Manual Series

Printed in the U.S.A. reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

All rights

ISBN-13: 978-1-56392-728-7

ISBN

10:

Library of

1-56392-728-4 Congress Control Number: 2008931844

While every attempt is made to ensure that the information in this manual is correct, no authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions

liability

can be accepted by the

from, the information given."

08-288

neces-

ence

We

make

the text,

it's

sary to refer to another Chapter, the refer-

Using the manual

occurs.

A Note

in

0-3

Contents Introductory pages About this manual Introduction

Vehicle identification

numbers

Buying parts Maintenance techniques, tools and working Jacking and towing Anti-theft audio system Booster battery Oump) starting Automotive chemicals and lubricants Conversion factors

0-14 0-1

0-16 0-17

Safety first! Troubleshooting

Chapter

facilities

0-2 0-4 0-5 0-6 0-6 0-12 0-13 0-13

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

Chapter 2 Part

1-1

A

2.2L four-cylinder engine

2A-1

Chapter 2 Part B 4.3L V6 engine

Chapter 2

2B-1

C

Part

General engine overhaul procedures

2C-1

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and

air

conditioning systems

3-1

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

4-1

Chapter 5 Engine

electrical

systems

5-1

Chapter 6 Emissions and engine control systems

Chapter 7 Part

A

Manual transmission

Chapter 7

Part

Part

7A-1

B

Automatic transmission

Chapter 7

6-1

7B-1

C

Transfer case

7C-1

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveline

8-1

Chapter 9 Brakes

9-1

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

10-1

Chapter 11 Body

11-1

Chapter 12 Chassis

electrical

system

12-1

Wiring diagrams

12-16

Index

IND-1

0-4

Haynes photographer, author and mechanic with 1995

GMC Jimmy

Introduction to the Chevrolet S-10

and

Blazer,

GMC Sonoma, Jimmy and

Envoy, Oldsmobile Bravada and Isuzu Hombre These models are available in pickup and 2-and 4-door sport utility body styles. Engines are either fuel-injected MPFI 2.2L four-cylinder or 4.3L V6. Later models are equipped with the On Board Diagnostic

Second-Generation (OBD-II) computerized engine management system that controls virtually every aspect of engine operation. In Canada, this system is called Enhanced Diagnostics. OBD-II is designed to keep the emissions system operating at the federally specified level for the II

life of the vehicle. OBDmonitors emissions system components for

signs of degradation and engine operation for

any malfunction that could affect emissions, turning on the Service Engine Soon light if any faults are detected. Chassis layout is conventional, with the engine mounted at the front and the power being transmitted through either a 5-speed manual or 4-speed automatic transmission and a driveshaft to the solid rear axle. On 4WD models, a transfer case transmits power to a front differential by way of a driveshaft and then to the front wheels through independent driveaxles.

These models feature independent front suspension with torsion bars (4WD) or coil springs (2WD) and shock absorber at the

and solid axle with leaf springs and shock absorbers at the rear. The brakes are disc on the front and drum on the rear wheels, with an Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) standard on most mod-

front

els.

The power-assisted recirculating balltype steering is mounted on the chassis frame rail to the left of the engine.

0-5

numbers

Vehicle identification Modifications are a continuing and unpublicized part of vehicle manufacturing.

Since spare parts manuals and lists are compiled on a numerical basis, the individual vehicle

numbers are essential to component required.

correctly

identify the

Vehicle Identification

Number

(VIN) numstamped on a plate attached to the left side of the dashboard and is visible through This very important identification

ber

is

the driver's side of the windshield (see illustration). The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certificate of Title

and Registration. It consuch as where and

tains valuable information

when

the vehicle

was manufactured,

model year and the body

the

The Vehicle

style.

Identification

Number (VIN)

is

vehicle, looking through the windshield

On

codes particularly important pieces of

information found

in

the engine code letter designa-

left,

the 8th digit and the model year code letter designation is the 10th digit.

tion

is

On

the models covered by engine codes are:

W

this

Refer to this label

when

On

Electronic Fuel Injection (SEFI)

lower

4.3L V6 with Throttle Body 2.2L four-cylinder engine with Multi-Port Injection (MPI)

the models covered by this manual the model year codes are:

On

is

left

side of the block, just above the

oil

pan rail and on the right rear side of the block on a casting adjacent to the cylinder head. On 1999 and later model engines built in the Tonawanda or Romulus plants, the 4.3L V6 engine number is at the top/right front of the engine.

R S T V

1994

Automatic transmission

1995

number

1996

W

1998

The automatic transmission ID number is stamped into the passenger's side of the case, just above the fluid pan, toward the rear.

1997

X

1999

Y

2000

1

2001

2

2002

3

2003

4

2004

rail.

Manual transmission number number can be found on a pad on Borg-Wamer T5 transmission and on the left side of the New Venture Gear NV3500 transmission. The

ID

the right side of the case on the

ordering parts.

2.2L four-cylinder engines this numfound on a pad at the rear of the block, just behind the oil dipstick opening. On 4.3L V6 engines the numbers are found on the

4.3L V6 with Sequential

.

case, near the rear pan

It lists the VIN number, wheelbase, paint number, options and other information specific to the vehicle it's attached

to.

later-model 4L60-E transmissions, is stamped into the rear of the

number

located at the rear edge of

the driver's side door.

ber

Injection (TBI)

4 or 5 ...

is

Engine identification numbers

Injection (CPI)

Z

This label

manual the

4.3L V6 with Central Port Fuel

X

the ID

Vehicle certification label

the VIN are the engine

code and the model year code. Counting from the

identification label is

located on the glove box (arrow)

dashboard, visible from outside the

VIN engine and model year Two

The service parts

at the front of the driver's side of the

Transfer case The

number

number on the Borg-Warner

ID

case can be found on a pad on the case while on the New Process transfer case it is on the left side.

transfer

right side of the

Rear axle number The

ID

number

is

stamped on

front side

of the right (passenger's side) axle tube.

Vehicle Emissions Control Information label This label

is

found

in

partment. See Chapter 6 for

on

commore information

the engine

this label.

Much important information is on the service parts identification label

Vehicle

Service parts identification

identification

label

number Body type and

located

in

the glove box

This label is paint num(see illustration). It lists the VIN, specific to ber, options and other information

need the vehicle. You may sometimes refer to this label illustration).

when you

to

order parts (see

style

Options Paint codes Paint type

(some models)

0-6

Buying parts Replacement parts are available from sources, which generally fall into one of

many

two categories - authorized dealer parts departments and independent retail auto parts stores. Our advice concerning these is as follows: Retail auto parts stores: Good auto parts stores will stock frequently needed components which wear out relatively fast,

parts

such as clutch components, exhaust systems, brake parts, tune-up parts, etc. These stores often supply new or reconditioned

parts on an exchange basis, which can save a considerable amount of money. Discount auto parts stores are often very good places

buy materials and parts needed for general vehicle maintenance such as oil, grease, filters, spark plugs, belts, touch-up paint, bulbs, etc. They also usually sell tools and general accessories, have convenient hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home. Authorized dealer parts department: This is the best source for parts which are

unique to the vehicle and not generally

avail-

able elsewhere (such as major engine parts,

transmission parts, trim pieces,

Warranty information:

to

If

etc.).

the vehicle

is

covered under warranty, be sure that any replacement parts purchased - regardless of the source - do not invalidate the warranty! To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, have engine and chassis numbers still

available and, if possible, take the old parts along for positive identification.

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Maintenance techniques There are a number of techniques involved in maintenance and repair that will be referred to throughout this manual. Application of these techniques will enable the home mechanic to be more efficient, better organized and capable of performing the various tasks properly, which will ensure that the repair job is thorough and complete.

this task,

as well as other repair procedures,

such as the repair of threaded holes that have been stripped out. Flat washers and lockwashers, when removed from an assembly, should always

be replaced exactly as removed. Replace any with new ones. Never use a lockwasher on any soft metal surface (such as aluminum), thin sheet metal or plastic.

damaged washers

••

Fasteners Fasteners are nuts, bolts, studs and screws used to hold two or more parts together. There are a few things to keep in mind when working with fasteners. Almost all of them use a locking device of some type,

Grade

1

Grade 5

or 2

Grade 8

either a lockwasher, locknut, locking tab or

thread adhesive. All threaded fasteners should be clean and straight, with undamaged threads and undamaged corners on the hex head where the wrench fits. Develop the all damaged nuts and bolts ones. Special locknuts with nylon or fiber inserts can only be used once. If they are removed, they lose their locking ability

habit of replacing

with

new

and must be replaced with new ones. Rusted nuts and bolts should be treated with a penetrating fluid to ease removal and prevent breakage. Some mechanics use turpentine in a spout-type oil can, which works

Bolt strength

Grade Hex Nut Grade 5

quite well. After applying the rust penetrant,

work

a few minutes before trying to loosen the nut or bolt. Badly rusted fasteners may have to be chiseled or sawed off or removed with a special nut breaker, available let

it

Identification

©

Grade Hex Nut Property Class 9

a bolt or stud breaks

an assembly, it can be drilled and removed with a special tool commonly available for this purpose. Most automotive machine shops can perform

-

metric)

Identification

o Arabic 9

for

Hex Nut Grade 8

at tool stores. If

marking (standard/SAE/USS; bottom

off in

Standard hex nut strength markings

Property Class 10

o

Metric hex nut strength markings

© ©© Class

Class

Class

10.9

9.8

8.8

Metric stud strength markings I

oo

imvmal

Maintenance techniques, tools and working Fastener sizes For a number

of reasons, automobile manufacturers are making wider and wider use of metric fasteners. Therefore, it is important to be able to tell the difference between standard (sometimes called U.S. or SAE) and metric hardware, since they cannot be interchanged. All bolts, whether standard or metric, are sized according to diameter, thread pitch and length. For example, a standard 1/2-13x1 bolt is 1/2 inch in diameter, has 13 threads per inch and is 1 inch long. An M12 - 1.75 x 25 metric bolt is 1 2 mm in diameter, has a thread

mm (the distance between 25 mm long. The two bolts are nearly identical, and easily confused, but they

pitch of 1.75 threads) and

is

are not interchangeable. In addition to the differences

diameter, thread pitch and length, metric and standard bolts can also be distinguished by examining the bolt heads. To begin with, the distance across the flats on a standard bolt

head

is

measured

in

in

inches, while the

dimension on a metric bolt

is

sized

in

0-7

facilities

Metric thread sizes

Ft-ibs

Nm

M-6 M-8 M-10 M-12 M-14

6 to 9 14 to 21

9 to 12 19 to 28

28 to 40 50 to 71 80 to 140

38 to 54 68 to 96 109 to 154

5 to 8 12 to 18

7 to 10

Pipe thread sizes 1/8

1/4

3/8 1/2

U.S. thread sizes 1/4-20 5/16 5/16

-

18

-

24

3/8

-

16

3/8

-

24

7/16-14 7/16

-

20

1/2-13

22 to 33 25 to 35

17 to 24 30 to 44 34 to 47

6 to 9 12 to 18 14 to 20

9 to 12 17 to 24 19 to 27

22 27 40 40

30 37 55 55 75

32 38 to 55 to 60 to to

55to80

to

43

to 51

74

to

to 81

108

to

same

millime-

same is true for nuts). As a result, a standard wrench should not be used on a metric bolt and a metric wrench should not be used on a standard bolt. Also, most standard bolts have slashes radiating out from the center of the head to denote the grade or strength of the bolt, which is an indication of the amount of torque that can be applied to

ters (the

The greater the number of slashes, the greater the strength of the bolt. Grades through 5 are commonly used on automobiles. Metric bolts have a property class (grade) number, rather than a slash, molded it.

into their

heads

to indicate bolt strength. In

this case, the higher the

number, the stronger

Property class numbers 8.8, 9.8 and 10.9 are commonly used on automobiles.

the

bolt.

Strength markings can also be used to distinguish standard hex nuts from metric hex nuts. Many standard nuts have dots stamped into one side, while metric nuts are

marked with a number. The greater the number of dots, or the higher the number, the greater the strength of the nut. Metric studs are also marked on their ends according to property class (grade).

Larger studs are numbered (the same as metric bolts), while smaller studs carry a geometric code to denote grade. should be noted that many fasteners, Grades through 2, have no disis the tinguishing marks on them. When such it is case, the only way to determine whether thread standard or metric is to measure the of the pitch or compare it to a known fastener It

especially

same

size.

Standard fasteners are often referred to However, it as SAE, as opposed to metric. that SAE technically refers to

should be noted fastener only. a non-metric fine thread are Coarse thread non-metric fasteners referred to as

USS

|0O-2H«Ywis1

Grade marks

Since fasteners of the same different standard and metric) may have

(bolt strength)

Length (in inches) Thread pitch (number of threads per inch) Nominal diameter (in inches)

their original locations. Also,

when

replacing

a fastener with a new one, make sure that the new one has a strength rating equal to or greater than the original.

Tightening sequences and

procedures Most threaded fasteners should be tightened to a specific torque value (torque is the twisting force applied to a threaded component such as a nut or bolt). Overtightening

the fastener can weaken it and cause break, while undertightening can cause eventually

come

loose. Bolts,

P

Property class (bolt strength)

L

T

Length (in millimeters) Thread pitch (distance between

D

Diameter

threads

strength ratings, be sure to reinstall any bolts, studs or nuts removed from your vehicle in

sizes.

size (both

Metric bolt dimensions/grade marks

Standard (SAE and USS) bolt dimensions/grade marks

it

to

it

to

screws and

studs, depending on the material they are made of and their thread diameters, have

in millimeters)

specific torque values,

many

of

which are

noted in the Specifications at the beginning of each Chapter. Be sure to follow the torque

recommendations closely. For fasteners not assigned a specific torque, a general torque value chart is presented here as a guide. These torque values are for dry (unlubricated) fasteners threaded into steel or cast iron (not aluminum). As was previously mentioned, the size and grade of a fastener determine the amount of torque that can safely be applied to it. The figures listed here are approximate for Grade 2 and Grade 3 fasteners. Higher grades can tolerate higher torque values. Fasteners laid out in a pattern, such as cylinder

head

cover bolts,

ened

in

pan bolts, differential must be loosened or tight-

bolts, oil

etc.,

sequence

to avoid

warping the com-

Maintenance techniques, tools and working

0-8

Micrometer set This sequence

normally be If a specific pattern is not given, the following procedures can be used to prevent warping. Initially, the bolts or nuts should be assembled finger-tight only. Next, they should be tightened one full turn each, in a criss-cross or diagonal pattern. After each one has been tightened one full turn, return to the first one and tighten them all one-half portent.

shown

in

will

the appropriate Chapter.

turn, following the

same

pattern. Finally,

each of them one-quarter turn at a time until each fastener has been tightened to the proper torque. To loosen and remove the fasteners, the procedure would be reversed. tighten

Component disassembly Component disassembly should be done with care and purpose to help ensure that the parts go back together properly. Always keep track of the sequence in which parts are removed.

Make note

of special

Dial indicator set

two halves with numbered pieces masking tape so they can be easily recon-

identify the

of

nected.

Gasket sealing surfaces Throughout any vehicle, gaskets are used to seal the mating surfaces between two parts and keep lubricants, fluids, vacuum or pressure contained

an assembly. Many times these gaskets are coated with a liquid or paste-type gasket sealing compound before assembly. Age, heat and pressure can sometimes cause the two parts to stick together so tightly that they are very difficult to separate. Often, the assembly can be loosened by striking it with a soft-face hammer near the mating surfaces. A regular hammer can be used if a block of wood is placed between the hammer and the part. Do

hammer on cast parts or parts that could be easily damaged. With any particularly always recheck to make sure has been removed. Avoid using a screwdriver or bar to pry apart an assembly, as they can easily mar the gasket sealing surfaces of the parts, which must remain smooth. If prying is absolutely necessary, use an old broom handle, but keep in mind that extra clean up will be necstubborn

part,

nents before removal.

essary

comSome-

fasteners from a

ponent, keep track of their locations.

times threading a bolt back in a part, or putting the washers and nut back on a stud, can prevent mix-ups later. If nuts and bolts cannot be returned to their original locations, they should be kept in a compartmented box or a series of small boxes. A cupcake or muf-

purpose, since each cavity can hold the bolts and nuts from a particular area (i.e. oil pan bolts, valve cover bolts, engine mount bolts, etc.). A pan of this type is especially helpful when working on assemblies with very small parts, such as the

fin tin is ideal for this

carburetor, alternator, valve train or interior dash and trim pieces. The cavities can be

marked with

paint or tape to identify the con-

tents.

Whenever

wiring looms, harnesses or connectors are separated, it is a good idea to

in

not

that every fastener

When removing

if

the

wood

splinters.

After the parts are separated, the old

gasket must be carefully scraped off and the gasket surfaces cleaned. Stubborn gasket material can be soaked with rust penetrant or treated with a special chemical to soften it so it can be easily scraped off. A scraper can be fashioned from a piece of copper tubing by flattening and sharpening one end. Copper is

recommended because

it

is

usually softer

than the surfaces to be scraped, which reduces the chance of gouging the part. Some gaskets can be removed with a wire brush, but regardless of the method used, the mating surfaces must be left clean and

smooth. If for some reason the gasket surface is gouged, then a gasket sealer thick enough to fill scratches will have to be used during reassembly of the components. For most applications, a non-drying (or semi-drying)

Hose removal Warning:

tips

is equipped with air do not disconnect any of the A/C hoses without first having the system depressurized by a dealer service department If

the vehicle

conditioning,

marks on parts that can be installed more than one way, such as a grooved thrust washer on a shaft. It is a good idea to lay the disassembled parts out on a clean surface in the order that they were removed. It may also be helpful to make sketches or take instant photos of compocharacteristics or

facilities

gasket sealer should be used.

or a service station.

Hose removal precautions closely paralgasket removal precautions. Avoid scratching or gouging the surface that the hose mates against or the connection may lel

leak. This is especially true for radiator hoses.

Because

of various chemical reactions, the rubber in hoses can bond itself to the metal spigot that the hose fits over. To remove a hose, first loosen the hose clamps that secure it to the spigot. Then, with slip-joint pliers, grab the hose at the clamp and rotate it around the spigot. Work it back and forth until it is completely free, then pull it off. Silicone or other lubricants will ease removal if they can be applied between the hose and the outside of the spigot. Apply the same lubricant to the inside of the hose and the outside of the spigot to simplify installation. As a last resort (and if the hose is to be replaced with a new one anyway), the rubber can be slit with a knife and the hose peeled from the spigot. If this must be done, be careful that the metal connection is not damaged. If a hose clamp is broken or damaged, do not reuse it. Wire-type clamps usually weaken with age, so it is a good idea to replace them with screw-type clamps whenever a hose is removed.

Tools A selection

good

is a basic plans to maintain and repair his or vehicle. For the owner who has few tools, the initial invest-

of

tools

who her own

requirement for anyone

ment might seem

high, but

when compared

to the spiraling costs of professional auto

maintenance and

repair,

it

is

a wise one.

To help the owner decide which tools are needed to perform the tasks detailed in manual, the following tool lists are Maintenance and minor repair. Repair/overhaul and Special. The newcomer to practical mechanics this

offered:

Maintenance techniques, tools and working

Dial caliper

Compression gauge with spark plug

Hand-operated vacuum

pump

0-9

facilities

Timing

light

Damper/steering wheel puller

General purpose puller

Valve spring compressor

Valve spring compressor

Piston ring groove cleaning tool

Ring removal/installation tool

hole adapter

Hydraulic

lifter

removal tool

Ridge reamer

Maintenance techniques, tools and working

0-10

Ring compressor

Cylinder hone

Brake cylinder hone

Clutch plate alignment tool

should start

off

minor repair

tool

with the maintenance

and

which is adequate for the simpler jobs performed on a vehicle. Then, as confidence and experience grow, the owner can tackle more difficult tasks, buying additional tools as they are needed. Eventually the basic kit will be expanded into the repair and overhaul tool set. Over a period of time, the

experienced do-it-yourselfer

will

assemble a tool set complete enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the special category when it is felt that the expense is justified by the frequency of use.

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit

6

tools

should be considered the minimum required for performance of routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair work. We recommend the purchase of combination wrenches (box-end and openend combined in one wrench). While more expensive than open end wrenches, they offer the advantages of both types of wrench. in this list

Combination wrench set (1/4-inch to 1 inch or 6 to 19 mm) Adjustable wrench, 8 inch Spark plug wrench with rubber insert Spark plug gap adjusting tool

mm

Feeler gauge set

Brake bleeder wrench

Tap and

screwdriver (No.

Combination

pliers

-

2x6 inch)

6 inch

especially

when

can

various extensions and

We recommend

is

bulky and more expensive,

has the capacity of accepting a very wide range of large sockets. Ideally, however, the mechanic should have a 3/8-inch drive set and a 1/2-inch drive set.

Socket

Wire brush

Reversible ratchet

and cable cleaning

wrench Funnel (medium

tool

Oil filter

Drain If

set(s)

Extension -10 inch Universal joint

size)

Torque wrench (same size drive as

Safety goggles

Jackstands

the 1/2-

it

Fine emery cloth Battery post

die set

inch drive over the 3/8-inch drive. Although

the larger drive

Hacksaw and assortment of blades Tire pressure gauge Grease gun Oil

ity,

drives are available.

inch)

Phillips

Note:

The

Brake hold-down spring tool

Standard screwdriver (5/16-inch x

kit,

facilities

sockets) Ball peen

(2)

pan

Soft-face

be part of be necessary to

basic tune-ups are going to

routine maintenance,

it

will

purchase a good quality stroboscopic timing light and combination tachometer/dwell meter. Although they are included in the list of special tools, it is mentioned here because they are absolutely necessary for tuning most vehicles properly.

Repair and overhaul tool set These tools are essential

hammer - 8 ounce hammer (plastic/rubber)

Standard screwdriver (1/4-inch x 6 inch) Standard screwdriver (stubby 5/16-inch)

screwdriver (No.

Phillips

screwdriver (stubby

Pliers

-

vise grip

Pliers

-

lineman's

Pliers

-

Pliers

-

needle nose snap-ring (internal and external)

Cold chisel

-

Scribe

hensive set of sockets which, though expen-

Pin

sive, are invaluable

Steel rule/straightedge

because

of their versatil-

-

No. 2)

1/2-inch

anyone who plans to perform major repairs and are in addition to those in the maintenance and minor repair tool kit. Included is a comprefor

3x8 inch)

Phillips

Scraper (made from flattened copper tubing)

Centerpunch

punches

(1/16, 1/8, 3/16-inch)

-12

inch

Maintenance techniques, tools and working Allen

wrench set

(1/8 to 3/8-inch or

mm to

10 mm) A selection of files Wire brush (large)

4

A set can usua substantial savings over the individual tool prices, and they often come with a tool box. As additional tools are needed, add-on sets, individual tools and a of the large retail chain stores. ally

Jackstands (second set) Jack (scissor or hydraulic type)

be bought

larger tool

box can be purchased

to

Special tools

tools that

tools

in this list

are not used regularly, are expensive to buy,

accordance with their manufacturer's instructions. Unless these tools will be used frequently, it is not very economical to purchase many of them. in

A

consideration would be to split the cost and use between yourself and a friend or friends. In addition, most of these tools can be obtained from a tool rental shop on a temporary basis.

This

list

primarily contains only those

and instruments widely available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer for distribution to

tools

dealer service departments. Occasionally, references to the manufacturer's special tools are included in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the special tool is offered. However, sometimes there is no alternative to their use. Where this is the case, and the tool

cannot be purchased or borrowed, the work should be turned over to the dealer service department or an automotive repair shop. Valve spring compressor

Piston ring groove cleaning tool Piston ring compressor

Piston ring installation tool Cylinder compression gauge Cylinder ridge reamer

Cylinder surfacing hone Cylinder bore gauge

Micrometers and/or dial calipers Hydraulic lifter removal tool Balljoint separator

will

Hand operated vacuum/pressure pump Tachometer/dwell meter Universal electrical multimeter

Cable hoist Brake spring removal and

installation

tools

Floor jack

Good tools are expensive, so it makes sense to treat them with respect. Keep them clean and in usable condition and store them properly when not in use. Always wipe off any dirt, grease or metal chips before putting them away. Never leave tools lying around in the work area. Upon completion of a job, always check closely under the hood for tools that may have been left there so they won't get lost during a test drive. Some tools, such as screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches and sockets, can be hung on a panel mounted on the garage or workshop wall, while others should be kept in a tool box or tray. Measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc. must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged by weather or impact from other tools. When tools are used with care and stored properly, they will last a very long time. Even with the best of care, though, tools will wear out if used frequently. When a tool is damaged or worn out, replace it. Subsequent jobs will be safer and more enjoyable if you do.

Sometimes, the or bolt hole can

internal

become

threads of a nut

stripped, usually

from overtightening. Stripping threads is an all-too-common occurrence, especially when working with aluminum parts, because aluminum is so soft that it easily strips out. Usually, external or internal threads are only partially stripped. After they've been cleaned up with a tap or die, they'll still work. Sometimes, however, threads are badly dam-

When

Buying tools

aged.

For the do-it-yourselfer who is just startmaintenance ing to get involved in vehicle and repair, there are a number of options mainteavailable when purchasing tools. If and minor repair is the extent of the

choices:

nance work to be done, the purchase of individual other hand, tools is satisfactory. If, on the good extensive work is planned, it would be a purchase a modest tool set from one

and thread patterns. Drill the then tap it with the special included tap. Install the Heli-Coil and the hole is back to its original diameter and ety of sizes

hole,

some of the special tools that are needed, but regardless of where tools are bought, try to avoid cheap ones, especially when buying

Care and maintenance of tools

1)

Drill

this

and

oversize bolt,

2)

Drill

happens, you've got three

tap the hole to the next suitable

and

install

thread pitch.

Regardless of which method you use, be sure to proceed calmly and carefully. A little impatience or carelessness during one of these relatively simple procedures can ruin your whole day's work and cost you a bundle if you wreck an expensive part.

Working

and tap the hole to accept a drill and tap the plug

facilities

Not to be overlooked when discussing tools is the workshop. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some sort of suitable work area is essential. It is understood, and appreciated, that many home mechanics do not have a good workshop or garage available, and end up removing an engine or doing major repairs outside. It is recommended, however, that the overhaul or repair be completed under the cover of a roof.

A clean,

flat

workbench or

fortable working height

table of

com-

an absolute necessity. The workbench should be equipped with a vise that has a jaw opening of at least four is

inches.

As mentioned dry storage space

previously, is

some

clean,

also required for tools,

as well as the lubricants,

fluids,

cleaning sol-

soon become necessary. Sometimes waste oil and fluids, drained from the engine or cooling system during normal maintenance or repairs, present a disposal problem. To avoid pouring them on the ground or into a sewage system, pour the used fluids into large containers, seal them with caps and take them to an authorized vents, etc. which

disposal site or recycling center. Plastic jugs,

such as old antifreeze containers, are

ideal

for this purpose.

Always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean rags available. Old towels are excellent for mopping up spills. Many mechanics use rolls of paper towels for most work because they are readily available and disposable. To help keep the area under the vehicle clean, a large cardboard box can be cut open and flattened to protect the garage or shop floor.

a larger diameter

screw or stud.

or Slimsert.

are designed to

damaged threads in straightthrough holes and blind holes. Both are available as kits which can handle a vari-

be used. be the only source

screwdrivers and sockets, because they won't last very long. The expense involved in replacing cheap tools will eventually be greater than the initial cost of quality tools.

kits

repair

often

threads light (inductive

pick-up)

idea to

actually

like Heli-Coil

These easy-to-use

of

Dial indicator set

Stroboscope timing

will

Tool stores

How to repair damaged

Universal-type puller

Impact screwdriver

thread repair kit

over a longer period of time and gives the mechanic the freedom to choose only those

include those which

or which need to be used

remove the jam nut and bolt. The third method uses a patented

3)

expand

the tool selection. Building a tool set gradually allows the cost of the tools to be spread

The

the specified size, then run the threaded plug into the hole with a bolt and jam nut. Once the plug is fully seated,

at

Note: Another tool which is often useful is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of 3/8-inch and a set of good quality drill bits.

0-11

facilities

face,

Whenever working over a painted sursuch as when leaning over a fender to

service something under the hood, always it with an old blanket or bedspread to protect the finish. Vinyl covered pads, made

threaded plug, then

cover

to the original screw size. You can also buy a plug already threaded to the original size. Then you simply drill a hole to

especially for this purpose, are available at auto parts stores.

0-12

Jacking and towing of the Position the jack under the side

Jacking Warning: The jack supplied with the vehicle should only be used for raising the vehicle when changing a tire or placing jackstands under the frame. Never work under the vehicle or start the engine while the jack

is

being

used as the only means of support. The vehicle must be on a level surface with the wheels blocked and the transmission the front of in Park. Apply the parking brake if the vehicle must be raised. Make sure no one with the is in the vehicle as it's being raised jack.

the jack and lug nut wrench and spare tire from the compartment in the right rear corner of the rear passenger com-

Remove

partment. To replace the of the lug

cover

(if

wrench

tire,

use the tapered end wheel

to pry loose the

equipped). Note:

If

the vehicle

equipped with aluminum wheels,

it

is

may be

necessary to pry out the special lug nut covers. Also, aluminum wheels normally have anti-theft lug nuts (one per wheel) which

between the lug wrench and lug nut. The key is usually in the glove compartment. Loosen the lug nuts one-

require using a special "key"

half turn, but leave is

them

raised off the ground.

in

place

until

the

your vehivehicle at the jacking points (refer to instruccle's owner's manual or the jacking and rear tions with the jack). There's a front vehicle conjacking point on each side of the spring hanger sisting of hole in the chassis or the jack. for the pin in the lifting surface of

Operate the jack until the tire clears the tire ground. Remove the lug nuts and pull the of the hub and off. Clean the mating surfaces lug wheel, then install the spare. Replace the and nuts with the beveled edges facing in

them snugly. Don't attempt to tighten them completely until the vehicle is lowered

tighten

the jack. Lower the vehicle with the jack. Remove the jack and tighten the lug nuts in a crissnuts with cross pattern. If possible, tighten the torque wrench (see Chapter 1 for the torque

or

it

could

slip off

a

you don't have access to a torque wrench, have the nuts checked by a service possible. station or repair shop as soon as Caution: The compact spare included with some models is intended for temporary use it on only. Have the tire repaired and reinstall

values).

If

don't the vehicle at the earliest opportunity and exceed 50 mph with the spare tire on the car.

the wheel cover, then stow the jack and wrench and unblock the wheels. Install

tire tire,

Towing We recommend these vehicles (except from the all-wheel drive models) be towed off the ground. If rear, with the rear wheels these vehicles can it's absolutely necessary, front wheels be towed from the front with the that speeds don't off the ground, provided and the distance is less than

exceed 35 mph damaged if 50 miles; the transmission can be are limitations mileage/speed these drive must exceeded. Vehicles with all-wheel wheels on the not be towed with all four with all four ground. They must only be towed wheels

off

the ground.

for Equipment specifically designed be attached towing should be used. It must

members of the vehito the main structural brackets. cle, not the bumpers or

when Safety is a major consideration and local laws towing and all applicable state must be used must be obeyed. A safety chain at

all

times.

and The parking brake must be released Neutral. The the transmission must be in (ignition switch in steering must be unlocked that power the Off position). Remember with and power brakes won't work steering

the engine

off.

0-13

system

Anti-theft audio

same

time for five seconds with the ignition on and the radio power off. The display will show SEC, indicating the unit is in the secure

General information Some models

1

anti-theft audio

are equipped with the

system which includes an

mode

anti-theft feature that will render the stereo

inoperative

if

stolen.

If

4

the power source to

vehicle

is

equipped with

5

this anti-theft sys-

number

1

make

the

first

for

SEEK

until

the second and third digit of your

right or

left

1

arrow

12

be displayed as

will

BAND

knob. "000"

ignition switch to

ON, but leave

off.

button. "000" should dis-

Press the

SET

will

be

1

dis-

Press the

SCAN

number appear, then

Enter the second three code are displayed.

8 9

Press the lower

play

shows

"_ _,"

BAND

knob.

If

the dis-

you have successfully

anti-theft feature is

still

button to release

make

the

first

it.

14 Press the SEEK right or SEEK left arrows and make sure the second and third numbers agree with your code. 15 Repeat Steps 13 and 14 for the last three digits of your code. 16 Press the BAND knob. If SEC appears, the numbers you entered were correct and the stereo will work. If LOC appears, the numbers you entered were not correct and

digits of the

dis-

abled the anti-theft feature. If SEC is displayed, the code you entered was incorrect

and 4 buttons

Turn the

the stereo

code

play.

Press the

and the

restored to the stereo,

Steps.

SEEK

Press the

played.

Refer to your vehicle's owner's manual this audio

Press the stereo's

button to

6

7

Disabling the anti-theft feature 3

SCAN

is

LOC will appear on the display. Enter your ID code as follows; pause no more than 15 seconds between

"000."

Press the

When power

the stereo won't turn on and

will

entered.

more complete information on system and its anti-theft feature.

for

The display

button.

appear. The numbers

the stereo.

2

SET

number appear.

tem, do not disconnect the battery, remove the stereo or disconnect related components unless you have either turned off the feature or have the individual ID (code)

10

(anti-theft feature enabled).

Press the

show

the stereo is cut with the anti-theft feature activated, the stereo will be inoperative. Even if the power source is immediately re-connected, the stereo will not function. If your

Unlocking the stereo after a

power loss

enabled.

at the

the stereo

is still

inoperative

Booster battery (jump) starting Observe these precautions when using a booster battery

to start

a vehicle: a)

Before connecting the booster battery, make switch

is in

sure the ignition

d)

e)

one in the vehicle. The two vehicles MUST NOT

c)

f)

g)

battery

1

Booster battery

2

the Off position.

loads. Turn off the lights, heater and other electrical good idea. Your eyes should be shielded. Safety goggles are a dead Make sure the booster battery is the same voltage as the

b)

Dead

TOUCH each

other!

Neutral (manual) or Park (automatic), maintenance-free type, remove the a not is battery booster If the vent holes. vent caps and lay a cloth over the positive (+) terminals of each the red jumper cable to the

Make

sure the transaxle

is in

Connect

battery (see illustration).

cable to the negative (-) terConnect one end of the black jumper other end of this cable should be conminal of the booster battery. The vehicle to be started, such as a bolt or nected to a good ground on the .. bracket on the body. booster battery, then, with the engine Start the engine using the reverse the in cables the jumper running at idle speed, disconnect

order of connection.

Make the booster battery cable connections in the numerical order shown (note that the negative cable of the booster battery is NOT attached to the negative terminal of the dead battery)

0-14

Automotive chemicals and lubricants A number

of automotive chemicals

and

lubricants are available for use during vehicle

maintenance and

repair.

They include a wide

variety of products ranging

from cleaning

sol-

vents and degreasers to lubricants and protective sprays for rubber, plastic

and

vinyl.

Cleaners Carburetor cleaner and choke cleaner is a strong solvent for gum, varnish and carbon. Most carburetor cleaners leave a drytype lubricant film which will not harden or gum up. Because of this film it is not recommended for use on electrical components. Brake system cleaner is used to remove brake dust, grease and brake fluid from the brake system, where clean surfaces are absolutely necessary. It leaves no residue and often eliminates brake squeal caused by contaminants. Electrical cleaner removes oxidation, corrosion and carbon deposits from electrical full current flow. It can also be used to clean spark plugs, carburetor jets, voltage regulators and other parts where an

contacts, restoring

oil-free

surface

is

desired.

Demoisturants remove water and moisture from electrical components such as alternators, voltage regulators, electrical connectors and fuse blocks. They are non-conductive and non-corrosive. Degreasers are heavy-duty solvents used to remove grease from the outside of the engine and from chassis components. They can be sprayed or brushed on and, depending on the type, are rinsed off either with water or solvent.

Motor

oil is

engines.

the lubricant formulated for

normally contains a wide variety of additives to prevent corrosion and reduce foaming and wear. Motor oil comes in in

It

various weights (viscosity ratings) from

The recommended weight

of the

oil

to 50.

depends

on the season, temperature and the demands on the engine. Light oil is used in cold climates and under light load conditions. Heavy oil is used in hot climates and where high loads are encountered. Multi-viscosity oils are designed to have characteristics of both light and heavy oils and are available in a

number of weights from 5W-20 to 20W-50. Gear oil is designed to be used in differentials, manual transmissions and other areas where high-temperature lubrication is Chassis and wheel bearing grease is a heavy grease used where increased loads and friction are encountered, such as for wheel bearings, balljoints, tie-rod ends and universal joints.

High-temperature is

is

molybdenum

disulfide (moly),

which

a dry-type lubricant.

White grease

wheel

bearing

designed to withstand the extreme

galling, cold welding, rust

ally

made is

with

used

in

copper and graphite lubrifor exhaust system and

a heavy grease for is a problem. White grease stays soft under both low and high temperatures (usually from -100 to +190-degrees F), and will not wash off or dilute in the presence of water. Assembly lube is a special extreme

exhaust manifold

pressure lubricant, usually containing moly, used to lubricate high-load parts (such as main and rod bearings and cam lobes) for initial start-up of a new engine. The assembly lube lubricates the parts without being squeezed out or washed away until the engine oiling system begins to function. Silicone lubricants are used to protect rubber, plastic, vinyl and nylon parts. Graphite lubricants are used where oils cannot be used due to contamination problems, such as in locks. The dry graphite will lubricate metal parts while remaining uncontaminated by dirt, water, oil or acids. It is electrically conductive and will not foul electrical contacts in locks such as the ignition switch. Moly penetrants loosen and lubricate frozen, rusted and corroded fasteners and prevent future rusting or freezing.

strength

is

and corrosion

fasteners. High-temperature ant-seize, usu-

cants,

metal-to-metal applications where water

bolts.

Anaerobic locking compounds are used to keep fasteners from vibrating or working loose and cure only after in

the absence of

ing

compound

Medium

used

installation,

strength lock-

for small nuts, bolts

may be removed later. Highlocking compound is for large nuts,

and screws bolts

is

air.

that

and studs which

aren't

removed on a

regular basis. Oil additives range from viscosity index improvers to chemical treatments that claim to reduce internal engine friction. It should be noted that most oil manufacturers caution

against using additives with their

Gas additives perform

oils.

several func-

depending on their chemical makeup. They usually contain solvents that help dissolve gum and varnish that build up on carburetor, fuel injection and intake parts. They also serve to break down carbon deposits that form on the inside surfaces of the combustion chambers. Some additives contain upper cylinder lubricants for valves and piston rings, and others contain chemicals to remove condensation from the gas tank. tions,

Heat-sink grease

is a special electrinon-conductive grease that is used for mounting electronic ignition modules where it is essential that heat is transferred away from the module.

cally

Sealants RTV sealant

cone, RTV is air curing, it seals, bonds, waterproofs, fills surface irregularities, remains flexible, doesn't shrink, is relatively easy to remove, and is used as a supplementary sealer with almost all low and medium temperature gaskets. Anaerobic sealant is much like RTV in that it can be used either to seal gaskets or to form gaskets by itself. It remains flexible, is solvent resistant and fills surface imperfections. The difference between an anaerobic sealant and an RTV-type sealant is in the curing. RTV cures when exposed to air, while an anaerobic sealant cures only in the absence of air. This means that an anaerobic sealant cures only after the assembly of parts, sealing

them

Miscellaneous Brake

fluid

is

together. is

used

for

in

pieces.

Undercoating

is a petroleum-based, substance that is designed to protect metal surfaces on the underside of the vehicle from corrosion. It also acts as a sounddeadening agent by insulating the bottom of

tar-like

the vehicle.

Waxes and polishes

require

the use of different types of

polish.

Some

a chemical or abrasive cleaner to help remove the top layer of oxipolishes

utilize

on older vehicles

dized

(dull)

many non-wax

fittings

and as a wrap-around tape.

Chemicals Anti-seize

compound prevents

seizing,

may wax and

weather. Different types of paint

years

and pneumatic

are used to help

protect painted and plated surfaces from the

vacuum lines. It is usually made from a Teflon compound, and comes in a spray, a paint-on liquid

formulated

this fluid does not contact with painted surfaces or plastics. An opened container should always be resealed to prevent contamination by water or dirt. Weatherstrip adhesive is used to bond weatherstripping around doors, windows and trunk lids. It is sometimes used to attach trim

come

and

sealing hydraulic

specially

hydraulic fluid that can withstand the heat and pressure encountered in brake systems.

Care must be taken so

is

Thread and pipe sealant

required.

grease

contains

one of the most widely used gasket compounds. Made from sili-

Lubricants use

temperatures encountered by wheel bearings in disc brake equipped vehicles. It usually

paint

In

recent

polishes that contain a

wide variety of chemicals such as polymers and silicones have been introduced. These non-wax polishes are usually easier to apply and last longer than conventional waxes and polishes.

0-15

Conversion factors Length (distance) X 25.4 = Millimeters (mm) X 0.305 = Meters (m) X 1.609 = Kilometers (km)

Inches (in) Feet (ft) Miles

Volume

0.0394

X X X X X X X X

0.061 1.76 0.88

3.281 0.621

= = =

Inches (in) Feet (ft) Miles

(capacity) 3

X X X X X X X X

Cubic inches (cu in; in Imperial pints (Imp pt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) Imperial quarts (imp qt)

)

US

quarts (US qt) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) US gallons (US gal)

Mass

X X X

16.387 0.568 1.137 1.201

0.946 4.546 1.201

3.785

= Cubic centimeters (cc; cm 3 = Liters = Liters = US quarts (US qt) = Liters = Liters = US gallons (US gal) = Liters

)

(I) (I)

(I) (I)

(I)

0.833 1.057 0.22

0.833 0.264

= Cubic inches (cu in; in 3 = Imperial pints (Imp pt) = Imperial quarts (Imp qt) = Imperial quarts (Imp qt) = US quarts (US qt) = Imperial gallons (Imp gal) = Imperial gallons (Imp gal) )

= US

gallons (US gal)

(weight)

Ounces Pounds

X 28.35 = Grams (g) X 0.454 = Kilograms

(oz) (lb)

(kg)

X X

0.035 2.205

X X X

0.225

= Ounces = Pounds

(oz) (lb)

Force Ounces-force Pounds-force

Newtons

X 0.278 = Newtons (N) X 4.448 = Newtons (N) = Kilograms-force 0.1 X

(ozf; oz) (Ibf; lb)

(N)

(kgf; kg)

9.81

= Ounces-force = Pounds-force = Newtons (N)

4.223

=

3.6

(ozf; oz) (Ibf; lb)

Pressure Pounds-force per square inch 2

(psi; lbf/in

;

lb/In

(psi; lbf/in

;

lb/In

(psi; lbf/in

;

lb/in

(psi; lbf/in

;

lb/in

Kilograms-force per square 2 2 centimeter (kgf/cm kg/cm Atmospheres (atm)

X 0.068

=

X

1

Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in

)

X

1

4.696

=

2

X

0.069

=Bars

X

1

4.5

=

X

6.895

=

X

Kilopascals (kPa)

0.145

=

X

0.01

=

Kilograms-force per square 2 2 centimeter (kgf/cm kg/cm ;

Torque (moment of force) X

Pounds-force inches

1.152

=

X'

Pounds-force inches

0.113

98.1

=

0.868

=

cm; kg cm)

= Newton

2

)

;

lb/in

2

2

)

;

lb/in

2

2

)

;

lb/in

2 )

Kilopascals (kPa)

)

Kilograms-force centimeter (kgf

(Ibf in; lb In)

X

lb/in

Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in

)

Kilopascals (kPa)

;

Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in

)

2

2

2

Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in

)

2

Pounds-force per square inch 2

=

;

Pounds-force per square inch 2

0.070

)

Pounds-force per square inch 2

X

2

Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; lb in)

meters (Nm)

8.85

=

Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; lb in)

(Ibf in; lb in)

X 0.083 = Pounds-force

Pounds-force inches

feet (Ibf

12

lb ft)

ft;

=

Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; lb in)

(Ibf in; lb in)

Pounds-force feet

(Ibf ft; lb ft)

X 0.138 =

7.233

=

0.738 9.804

= Pounds-force feet (Ibf = Newton meters (Nm)

0.2961

0.0394

= Inches mercury = Inches mercury

X

0.0013

=

X

0.621

= Miles

X X

2.825 2.352

= =

Kilograms-force meters m; kg m)

Pounds-force feet

(Ibf ft; lb ft)

(kgf

Pounds-force feet (Ibf Newton meters (Nm)

ft; lb ft)

X 1.356 X 0.102

= Newton meters = Kilograms-force (kgf

(Nm) meters

ft;

lb ft)

m; kg m)

Vacuum Inches mercury Inches mercury

(in. (in.

Hg) Hg)

Power Horsepower

(hp)

Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

Fuel consumption* Miles per gallon, Imperial (mpg) Miles per gallon. US (mpg)

Temperature Degrees Fahrenheit

= Kilopascals (kPa) = Millimeters mercury

X

745.7

= Watts

X

1.609

=

X 0.354 = X 0.425 = „„

(°C x 1.8) + 32

(mm

Hg)

(W)

Kilometers per hour (km/hr; kph)

ometers per Kilometers per

K.

iter

km/

l.ter

(km/D

Horsepower

(1/1

00km).

(hp)

per hour (miles/hr; mph)

Miles per gallon. Imperial (mpg) Miles per gallon, US (mpg)

Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; °C)

per gallon (mpg) to liters/ 100 kilometers practice to convert from miles km = 235 x l/WO km = 282 and mpg (US) x 1/100

common XnereZgtZeriel) •It Is

=

X 3.377 X 25.4

=

(°F

-

32) x 0.56

0-16

Safety

first!

Regardless of how enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job at hand, take the time to ensure that your safety is not

A moment's

jeopardized.

lack of attention

can result in an accident, as can failure to observe certain simple safety precautions. The possibility of an accident will always exist, and the following points should not be considered a comprehensive list of all dangers. Rather, they are intended to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safety conscious approach to all work you carry out on your vehicle.

Essential DON'T

DOs and DON'Ts

and when working under a vehicle. loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving parts. DO make sure that any hoist used has a safe working load rating adequate for the job. DO get someone to check on you periodically when working alone on a vehicle. DO carry out work in a logical sequence and make sure that everything is correctly assembled and tightened. DO keep chemicals and fluids tightly capped and out of the reach of children and pets.

carefully.

DO keep

containers.

DO remember on any

Asbestos

points.

other products

attempt to loosen extremely tight fasteners (i.e. wheel lug nuts) while the vehicle is

on a jack

- it

may

fall.

engine without first making sure that the transmission is in Neutral (or Park where applicable) and the parking brake start the

DON'T remove

the radiator cap from a hot cooling system - let it cool or cover it with a

and release the pressure

attempt to drain the engine oil until you are sure it has cooled to the point that it will not burn you.

DON'T touch any haust system avoid burns.

until

part of the engine or exit

has cooled

sufficiently to

DON'T

siphon toxic liquids such as gasoline, antifreeze and brake fluid by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin.

DON'T

inhale brake lining dust - it is potenhazardous (see Asbestos below).

DON'T on the on it.

allow spilled

floor

-

DON'T use tools which

wipe loose

may

it

oil

or grease to remain

up before someone

fitting

slips

wrenches or other

and cause injury. DON'T push on wrenches when loosening or tightening nuts or bolts. Always try to pull the wrench toward you. If the situation calls for pushing the wrench away, push with an open hand to avoid scraped knuckles if the wrench should

-

DON'T

slip

slip.

DON'T attempt get

to

someone

lift

a heavy component

to help you.

rush or take unsafe shortcuts to finish

a job.

DON'T

allow children or animals in or around the vehicle while you are working on it.

DO

in

carbon monoxide, which is extremely poisonous. If you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air, or at least have

tain

the rear of the vehicle outside the work area. If you are fortunate enough to have the use of an inspection pit, never drain or pour gasoline and never run the engine while the vehicle is over the pit. The fumes, being heavier than air, will concentrate in the pit

with possibly lethal results.

doubt

The battery Never create a spark or allow a bare bulb near a battery. They normally give a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which

light

Certain friction, insulating, sealing, and

such as brake

brake bands, clutch linings, torque converters, gaskets, etc. - may contain asbestos. Extreme care must be taken to avoid inhalation of dust from such products, since it is hazardous to health. If in doubt, assume that they do con-

linings,

tain asbestos.

off

highly explosive.

is

Always disconnect the battery ground (-) cable at the battery before working on the fuel or electrical systems. If possible, loosen the filler caps or cover when charging the battery from an external source (this does not apply to sealed

maintenance-free batteries). Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery

wear eye protection when using power drill, sander, bench grinder,

tools such as a

Fire

Remember

at

all

times that gasoline

is

Never smoke or have any kind of open flame around when working on a vehicle. But the risk does not end there. A spark caused by an electrical short circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, or even by static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite gasoline vapors, which in a confined space are highly explosive. Do not, under any circumstances, use gasoline for cleaning parts. Use an approved safety solvent. Always disconnect the battery ground (-) cable at the battery before working on any part of the fuel system or electrical system. Never risk spilling fuel on a hot engine or exhaust component. It is strongly recomhighly flammable.

gradually.

DON'T

alone

If

Never run the engine in an enclosed space, such as a garage. Exhaust fumes con-

or

is set.

tially

others.

rely

DON'T

cloth

and

point, get professional advice.

on a jack when working under the Always use approved jackstands to support the weight of the vehicle and place them under the recommended lift or support

DON'T

that your vehicle's safety

affects that of yourself

vehicle.

Never use materials from unmarked

etc.

mended

that a fire extinguisher suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires be kept handy in the garage or workshop at all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with

may

burst.

Take care when adding water to a non maintenance-free battery and when carrying a is

battery.

The

electrolyte,

even when

diluted,

very corrosive and should not be allowed

to contact clothing or skin.

Always wear eye protection when cleaning

the

battery

to

prevent the

caustic

deposits from entering your eyes.

Household current When

using an electric power tool,

etc., which operates on household current, always make sure that the tool is correctly connected to its plug and that, where necessary, it is properly grounded. Do not use such items in damp conditions and, again, do not create a spark

inspection

light,

or apply excessive heat

in

the vicinity of fuel

or fuel vapor.

water.

Secondary ignition system

Fumes

voltage A severe

Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconsciousness and even

death

if

inhaled to any extent. Gasoline vapor

category, as do the vapors from cleaning solvents. Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated area. When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions on the container

falls into this

some

electric

shock can

result

from

touching certain parts of the ignition system (such as the spark plug wires) when the engine is running or being cranked, particularly

if

components are damp

or the insulation

case of an electronic ignition system, the secondary system voltage is much higher and could prove fatal. is

defective. In the

0-17

Troubleshooting Contents

Symptom

Section

Engine Engine Engine Engine Engine Engine Engine Engine Engine Engine Engine Engine Engine

Noisy

13 15

backfires diesels (continues to run) after switching off

hard to start hard to start lacks

when when

4 5 12 8 9 10

cold

hot

power

lopes while idling or idles erratically

misses at idle speed misses throughout driving speed range rotates but

will

2

not start

starts but stops immediately

7

will not rotate when attempting to start Pinging or knocking engine sounds during acceleration

Engine electrical system Battery light fails to come on when Battery

will

key

is

not hold a charge

Ignition light fails to

6 3

18 16 17

turned on

go out

35 38 36

particular gear

leakage Slips out of high gear

Automatic transmission 42 39

Fluid leakage

General shift mechanism problems Transmission slips, shifts rough, is noisy or has no drive in forward or reverse gears Transmission will not downshift with accelerator pedal

pressed to the

41

40

floor

Transfer case 46 45 43 44

Lubricant leaks from the vent or output shaft seals

motor noisy or excessively rough in engagement motor operates without rotating engine

Starter

Section

one

1

14

or uphill

in

Oil

11

stalls

Starter

Symptom

Noisy or jumps out of four-wheel drive Transfer case

is difficult

Transfer case noisy

to shift into the desired range

in all

gears

Driveshaft Knock or clunk when the transmission load

(just after

Metallic grinding

Low range

transmission

is

under

initial

48 49 47 50

put into gear)

is

sound consistent with vehicle speed

Oil leak at front of driveshaft

Fuel system

Vibration

19

Excessive fuel consumption Fuel leakage and/or fuel odor

20

Noise leakage

Cooling system 25 23

External coolant leakage Internal coolant leakage

Overcooling

>

24 22 21

Overheating Poor coolant circulation

26

Clutch Clutch pedal stays on floor when disengaged Clutch slips (engine speed increases with no increase in vehicle speed) - shift lever Fails to release (pedal pressed to the floor does not move freely in and out of Reverse)

Grabbing (chattering) as clutch is engaged Squeal or rumble with clutch fully disengaged fully

32

Brakes Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed Brake pedal pulsates during brake application Excessive brake pedal travel Excessive effort required to stop vehicle Noise (high-pitched squeal with the brakes applied) Pedal travels to the floor with little resistance

Suspension and steering systems 27 29

Excessive pitching and/or during braking Excessive play in steering

31

Excessive Excessive Excessive

30

Manual transmission engaging gears gears

in all in

3

^ JJ

Neutral with engine running

reference This section provides an easy which guide to the more common problems may occur during the operation of your vehipossible causes are cle. These problems and sysgrouped under various components or etc., and System, Cooling Engine, i.e. tems; which the Chapter and/or Section

also refer to deals with the problem. Remember that successful troubleart pracshooting is not a mysterious black mechanics. It s ticed only by professional

rolling

around corners or

Lack of power assistance Shimmy, shake or vibration Tire tread worn in one place

63 65 67 69 68 64 66 62 70

Vehicle pulls to one side

61

tire

tire tire

wear (not specific to one area) wear on inside edge wear on outside edge

stiff

steering

simply the result of a bit of knowledge combined with an intelligent, systematic approach to the problem. Always work by a process of elimination, starting with the simplest solution and working through to the most complex -

and never overlook the obvious. Anyone can fill the gas tank or leave the lights on overnight, so don't assume that you are above such oversights. Finally, always get clear in your mind why a problem has occurred and take steps

forget to

57 60 56 58 55 59 54

Vehicle pulls to one side during braking

Excessively

Noisy Noisy

53 52

Vibration

28

engaged

(pedal released)

Difficulty in

51

Oil

Coolant loss

(pedal depressed) Squeal or rumble with clutch

Axles

to ensure that electrical

it

system

doesn't happen again.

If

the

because of a poor conother connections in the

fails

nection, check all system to make sure that they don't

fail as a particular fuse continues to blow, find out why - don't just go on replacing fuses. Remember, failure of a small component can often be indicative of potential failure or incorrect functioning of a more important component or system.

well.

If

Troubleshooting

0-18

properly (Chapter

Engine

4

Engine hard to start when cold

1

Battery discharged or low.

2

Fault

in

(Chapters 4 and 1

Engine will not rotate when attempting to start

Battery terminal connections loose or corroded. Check the cable terminals at the 1

discharged.

3

Faulty spark plug wires (Chapter

described in Section 1 2 Fault in the fuel or electrical systems (Chapters 4 and 5).

4

Vacuum

in

Air filter clogged (Chapter 1). 1 Fault in the fuel or electrical systems 2 (Chapters 4 and 5). 3 Fuel not reaching the injectors (see Chapter 4).

Park or Neutral or clutch pedal not

completely depressed. Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in 4 the starting circuit. Inspect all wiring and connectors at the battery, starter solenoid and

6

ignition switch.

broken.

5

mission ally

motor pinion jammed in flywheel manual transmission, place transgear and rock the vehicle to manu-

Starter

ring gear. in

If

turn the engine.

Remove

starter

Starter

rough

motor noisy or excessively engagement

in

worn or

Pinion or flywheel gear teeth

engine

Remove

(if

the cover at the rear of the

and

6

Starter solenoid faulty (Chapter

7

Starter

8

Ignition switch faulty (Chapter

motor

Engine rotates but

will

1

Fuel tank empty. Fault in the fuel injection

5).

1 2).

1

Loose or

not start

system (Chap-

discharged

(engine

rotates

Check the operation of electrical components as described in the previous slowly).

faulty electrical

connections

1).

Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit (see previous Section). Broken, loose or disconnected wires at 9 the distributor (V6) or ignition coil pack (four-

8

10

Distributor

1

and

5).

vacuum hoses connected the manifold are positioned properly and good condition.

1)

Ignition coil or coil

pack

faulty

(Chap-

ter 5).

12

8

all

to in

failure.

idling or idles

Vacuum

Check the mounting body and intake manifold for tightness. Make sure all vacuum hoses are connected and in good condition. Use a stethoscope or a length of fuel hose held against your ear to listen for vacuum 1

leakage.

leaks while the engine

sound

will

be heard.

is

running.

3 4

A soapy water

7 Starter

pinion

starter (Chapter 5)

2

sticking.

Remove

solution

Low

or uneven cylinder compression

Remove

pressures.

the spark plugs and test

the compression with a gauge (Chapter

Weak

2).

or faulty ignition system (Chap-

Vacuum leaks at the throttle body, vacuum hoses (see Section

Plugged PCV valve or hose (see Chap1 and 6). Air filter clogged (Chapter 1). Fuel

pump

not delivering sufficient fuel 4).

Camshaft lobes worn (Chapter

com-

2).

the

intake 8).

worn or

broken. Remove the flywheel/driveplate access cover and inspect.

Engine

1

Idle

stalls

speed

incorrect. Refer to the

VECI

label.

2

Fuel

clogged and/or water and

filter

impurities

in

the fuel system (Chapter

1).

3 Fault in the fuel system or sensors (Chapters 4 and 6). Faulty emissions system components 4 (Chapter 6). Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs 5 (Chapter 1). Also check the spark plug wires (Chapter 1). 6 Vacuum leak at the throttle body, intake manifold or vacuum hoses. Check as described in Section 8.

12

Engine lacks power

1

Fault

in

the fuel or electrical systems

(Chapters 4 and 2

5).

Faulty or incorrectly

gapped spark plugs

1).

3

Faulty coil (Chapter

4

Brakes binding (Chapter 1). Automatic transmission fluid

5

rect (Chapter

5).

level incor-

1).

6

Clutch slipping (Chapter

7

Fuel

filter

8).

clogged and/or impurities

in

the fuel system (Chapter 1). Emissions control system not function8 ing properly (Chapter 6).

9

Use

of

substandard

fuel.

Fill

the tank

with the proper octane fuel.

and inspect.

Starter pinion or flywheel teeth

11

(Chapter

6 Leaking head gasket. Perform a pression check (Chapter 2).

rotating engine

1

hissing

also detect leaks.

to the fuel injectors (see Chapter

motor operates without

A

Fault in the fuel or electrical systems 2 (Chapters 4 and 5).

5

Starter

in

1).

bolts/nuts at the throttle

ters

Engine mechanical

Engine lopes while erratically

will

cap wet, cracked or carbon

tracked (V6) (Chapter 11

clogged and/or impurities

2 Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1). 3 Fault in the fuel or electrical systems (Chapters 4 and 5). 4 Defective spark plug wires (Chapter 1 ). 5 Faulty emissions system components (Chapter 6).

at

Section.

4 Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (see previous Section). 5 Fuel pump faulty (Chapter 4). 6 Excessive moisture on, or damage to, ignition components (see Chapter 5). 7 Worn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark

cylinder) (Chapters

filter

manifold or

Vacuum leak at the gasket surfaces of 3 the intake manifold or throttle body. Make sure all mounting bolts/nuts are tightened securely and

plugs (Chapter

Fuel

the fuel system (Chapter

8

Fault in the fuel or electrical systems 2 (Chapters 4 and 5).

ter 4).

Battery

1

driving

faulty (Chapter 5).

2

3

Engine misses throughout speed range

ter 5).

Engine starts but stops immediately

distributor, coil or alternator.

2

1

10

7

7

5).

5

6

equipped) and inspect.

Starter motor mounting bolts loose or 2 missing.

inspect pinion and flywheel at earliest conve-

nience (Chapter

Check as described in Section 8. Uneven or low cylinder compression. Check compression as described in

tions.

Chapter

1

1).

leaks at intake or hose connec-

Engine hard to start when hot

Automatic transmission not completely

engaged

5).

3

5

Battery discharged or faulty. If the cable 2 connections are clean and tight on the battery posts, turn the key to the On position and switch on the headlights and/or windshield wipers. If they fail to function, the battery is

).

Check as

remove corro-

battery. Tighten the cable or

sion as necessary.

1

the fuel or electrical systems

9

Engine misses at

1

Spark plugs worn, fouled or not gapped

idle

speed

10 Low or uneven cylinder compression pressures. Test with a compression tester, which will detect leaking valves and/or a blown head gasket (Chapter 2).

0-19

Troubleshooting 13

Engine backfires

18

Battery light

fails

to

come on

when key is turned on Emissions system not functioning properly (Chapter 6). 2 Fault in the fuel or electrical systems (Chapters 4 and 5). Faulty secondary ignition system 3 (cracked spark plug insulator or faulty plug wires) (Chapters 1 and 5). 4 Vacuum leak at the throttle body, intake manifold or vacuum hoses. Check as described in Section 8. Valves sticking (Chapter 2). 5 Crossed plug wires (Chapter 1). 6 1

14

Pinging or knocking engine sounds during acceleration or

Instrument cluster warning

1

2

Alternator faulty (Chapter

Fault in the instrument cluster printed

circuit,

(Chapter

Fill

the tank with

proper octane rating. 2 Fault in the fuel or electrical systems (Chapters 4 and 5). 3 Improper spark plugs. Check the plug type against the VECI label located in the engine compartment. Also check the plugs

and wires for damage (Chapter 1). 4 Faulty emissions system (Chapter

Vacuum

5

Section

1

5

leak.

6).

Check as described

12).

24 19

Excessive fuel consumption

1

Dirty or

clogged

air filter

element (Chap-

1).

Emissions system not functioning prop-

3 Incorrect grade of fuel.

dashboard wiring or bulb holder

ter 2).

erly

1

5).

Fuel system

2

fuel of the

bulb

3

ter

uphill

light

defective (Chapter 12).

(Chapter Fault

the fuel or electrical systems tire size

20

Fuel leakage and/or fuel odor

1

Leak

a fuel feed or vent

line

(Chap-

2 Cracked cylinder bore or cylinder head. Dismantle the engine and inspect (Chapter 2). 3 Leaking intake manifold gasket (V6) (Chapter 2).

25

Coolant loss

in

Tank

2

overfilled.

Fill

only to automatic

Too much coolant

1

in

shut-off.

ter

2

Engine diesels (continues to run)

Evaporative emissions system canister 3 clogged (Chapter 6). 4 Vapor leaks from system lines (Chap-

after switching off

ter 4).

tions

23 and

4

Faulty radiator cap.

Fault

in

the fuel system (Chapter

4).

5).

Insufficient coolant in the

1

not hold a charge

Alternator drivebelt defective or not 1 adjusted properly (Chapter 1). Electrolyte level low or battery dis2

ter

24).

Have the cap pres-

and

4

Thermostat faulty (Chapter 3). Fan blades broken or cracked (Chap-

(Chapter

6

Alternator not charging properly (Chap-

ter 5).

Loose, broken or faulty wiring in the 5 charging circuit (Chapter 5). Short in the vehicle wiring causing a con6 tinuous drain on the battery (refer to Chapter 12 and the Wiring Diagrams).

Chapter

dirty

5

restricted (see

3).

Radiator cap not maintaining proper pressure. Have the cap pressure tested by a service station or repair shop. 7 Also see causes for "poor coolant circulation" in

22

1

Fault

circuit the alternator or charging

1).

Restriction

flush

and

refill

in

3).

the cooling system. Drain,

the system (Chapter

remove the

1).

If

nec-

and have it reverse flushed. 3 Water pump drivebelt defective or not radiator (Chapter 3)

adjusted properly (Chapter 1). 4 Inoperative water pump (Chapter 3). A good water pump should circulate water well

enough

to maintain a continuous flow of water

- with the heater on, and the engine at normal operating temperature, feel the inlet and outlet hoses to the heater

core, which both should

be hot

to the touch.

Section 26.

Overcooling Thermostat faulty (Chapter 3). Inaccurate temperature gauge (Chap-

Fails to release (pedal pressed to the floor - shift lever does not move freely in and out of Reverse)

ter 12).

23

(Chapter 5). or not Alternator drivebelt defective 2 properly adjusted (Chapter

Thermostat sticking (Chapter

27 2

go out

1

2

Clutch

1

Ignition light fails to

Poor coolant circulation

to the heater core

Battery defective internally.

17

26

essary,

Water pump drivebelt defective 2 (Chapter 1). Radiator core blocked or radiator grille 3

ter 3).

1).

system (Chap-

1).

charged (Chapter 1). Battery terminals loose or corroded 3

in

1 5).

External or internal leakage (see Sec-

3

Overheating

Engine electrical system will

Coolant boiling away due to overheating

(see Section

Cooling system 21

Battery

the system (Chap-

1).

sure tested.

the fuel or electrical systems

in

(Chapters 4 and

7

Leaking cylinder head gasket. Have the

1

ter 4).

9.

Fault

4

Note: Internal coolant leaks can usually be detected by examining the oil. Check the dipstick and inside of the valve cover for water deposits and an oil consistency like that of a

cooling system pressure tested.

5).

4 Low tire pressure or incorrect (Chapter 1).

in

Internal coolant leakage

milkshake.

6).

in

(Chapters 4 and

5

16

clamps. Replace hoses and/or tighten the clamps at the hose connections (Chapter 1). Water pump seals defective. If this is the 2 case, water will drip from the weep hole in the water pump body (Chapter 3). Leakage from the radiator core or side 3 tank(s). This will require the radiator to be professionally repaired (see Chapter 3 for removal procedures). 4 Engine drain plug leaking (Chapter 1) or water jacket core plugs leaking (see Chap-

1

Leak in the clutch hydraulic system. 1 Check the master cylinder, slave cylinder and

External coolant leakage Deteriorated or

damaged hoses

or loose

lines

(Chapter

2

Clutch plate warped or

ter 8).

8).

damaged (Chap-

Troubleshooting

0-20 Clutch slips (engine speed increases with no increase vehicle speed)

28

in

2

Damaged main

3

Worn countershaft bearings. Worn or damaged countershaft endplay

4

drive gear bearing.

other

selected.

shims.

Clutch plate oil soaked or lining worn. clutch (Chapter 8) and inspect. Clutch plate not seated. It may take 30 2 or 40 normal starts for a new one to seat. Pressure plate worn (Chapter 8). 3

Indicator on shifter pointing to a gear than the one actually being

b)

Vehicle

c)

moves when

in

Park.

2

Refer to Chapter 7 to adjust the linkage.

40

Transmission

1

Remove

34

Noisy

Grabbing (chattering) as clutch

Any

Insufficient lubricant (see the

of the

Oil

1

8)

Chapter

in

Since these transmissions are electroniyour dealer or a professional

on clutch plate lining. Remove (Chapand inspect. Correct any leakage

1

Worn, damaged or chipped gear teeth

in

released. Inspect the

for that

Slips out of high gear

There are many probable causes

Warped pressure plate or flywheel. Remove the clutch components and inspect.

4

Squeal or rumble with clutch

Transmission loose on clutch housing. Dirt between the transmission case and engine or misalignment of the transmission (Chapter 7).

2

fully

37

engaged (pedal released) Release bearing binding on transmission

Remove clutch components and check bearing. Remove any burrs or nicks; clean and relubricate bearing bearing retainer. 8)

retainer before installing.

Difficulty in

-

fluid level.

Before taking the vehicle to a repair shop, check the level and condition of the fluid as described in Chapter 1 Correct fluid level as necessary or change the fluid and filter if needed. If the problem persists, 2

.

engaging gears

Clutch not releasing completely (see in Chapter 1). 2 Loose, damaged or out-of-adjustment shift linkage. Make a thorough inspection, replacing parts as necessary (Chapter 7).

42

Fluid leakage

1

Automatic transmission

1

clutch adjustment

with engine air

ing (Chapter

Worn

2 (or

8).

or broken pressure plate springs

diaphragm

fingers) (Chapter 8).

Clutch pedal stays on floor

which can easily be blown by

pinpoint a leak, first remove all builtand grime from around the transmisDegreasing agents and/or steam clean-

To dirt

sion.

drive the vehicle at low

required.

not blow the leak far from its source. Raise the vehicle and determine where the leak is coming from. Common areas of leakage are:

Excessive amount of lubricant in the transmission (see Chapter 1 for correct checking procedures). Drain lubricant as 2

Transmission oil seal or speedometer need of replacement (Chapter 7).

oil

a)

in

when

b)

disengaged

speeds so

1

seal

32

leakage

oil,

ing will achieve this. With the underside clean,

Worn, defective or broken release bear-

1

Oil

a deep

flow to the transmission.

up

38

fluid is

red color. Fluid leaks should not be confused

2

Squeal or rumble with clutch fully disengaged (pedal depressed)

31

for the

above problems, but the home mechanic should be concerned with only one possibility

1

and inspect.

(Chapter

36

have to

Transmission slips, shifts rough, is noisy or has no drive in forward or reverse gears

41

damaged synchronizer

1

Worn splines on clutch plate hub. Remove the clutch components (Chapter 8)

1

or

mounts and

2).

3

30

Worn

will

diagnose the probable cause.

for that particular gear.

particular gear.

is

shop with the proper equipment

particular gear

Noisy

Worn or loose engine or transmission mounts. These units move slightly when the 2

one

35

2

bolts (Chapter

1 ).

cally controlled,

source.

clutch

will not downshift with accelerator pedal pressed to the floor

above causes, and/or: checking

1

is

engaged

ter

gears

2

procedures

29

in all

Automatic transmission

air

flow

will

Pan: Tighten the mounting bolts and/or replace the pan gasket as necessary (see Chapter 7). Filler pipe: Replace the rubber seal where the pipe enters the transmission case.

Linkage or release bearing binding.

1

Inspect the linkage or

remove the clutch com-

ponents as necessary. 2 Make sure proper pedal stop (bumper)

Manual transmission All the following

ter

unless noted.

7,

references are

to properly diagnose and service component. For problems other than the following, the vehicle should be taken to a dealer service department or a transmission

d)

shop.

e)

Noisy in Neutral with engine running Input shaft bearing worn.

Tighten the con-

mechanism

Vent pipe: Transmission overfilled and/or water in fluid (see checking procedures, Chapter 1). Speedometer connector: Replace the O-ring where the speedometer sensor enters the transmission case (Chapter 7).

Transfer case Chapter 7 deals with checking and

adjusting the shift linkage on automatic trans-

missions.

Common

problems which may be

43

attributed to poorly adjusted linkage are: a)

1

shift

oil lines:

problems

Chap1

33

General

Transmission

nectors where the lines enter the transmission case and/or replace the lines.

this

39 in

c)

mechanic is

installed.

Note:

Note: Due to the complexity of the automatic transmission, it's difficult for the home

Engine starting or Neutral.

in

Transfer case is difficult to shift into the desired range

gears other than Park 1

Speed may be too

great to

permit

Troubleshooting engagement. Stop the vehicle and

shift into

the desired range.

linkage loose, bent or binding. Check the linkage for damage or wear and replace or lubricate as necessary (Chapter 7). If the vehicle has been driven on a paved 3

2

Shift

surface for

some

Loose driveshaft bolts. Inspect all bolts and nuts and tighten them to the specified 2

Listen for evidence of rough (noisy) bearings.

Remove and

specified lubricant. (Chapter

1).

Worn or damaged internal components. 5 Disassembly and overhaul of the transfer case may be necessary (Chapter 7).

3

Worn

ings.

Check

49

Metallic grinding sound consistent with vehicle speed.

or

damaged

for

Transfer case noisy

53

8).

in all

Insufficient or incorrect

45

refill

(Chapter

gears

grade of

lubri-

Transfer case not

engaged. Stop the and then engage 4L.

fully

Shift linkage loose,

worn or binding.

Tighten, repair or lubricate linkage as necessary.

3

Shift fork cracked, inserts

binding on the

rail.

necessary (Chapter

46

worn or fork

Disassemble and repair as 7).

Lubricant leaks from the vent or output shaft seals

or replace the vent.

Output shaft seal incorrectly installed or damaged. Replace the seal and check contact surfaces for nicks and scoring. 3

1

and

8).

Brakes Note: Before assuming that a brake problem exists, make sure that the tires are in good condition and inflated properly (see Chapter 1), that the front end alignment is correct and that the vehicle is not loaded with weight in an unequal manner.

Note: Before assuming that the driveshaft is at make sure the tires are perfectly balanced and perform the following test.

Drive the vehicle and note the engine speed at which the vibration (roughness) is most pronounced. Now shift the transmission to a different gear and bring the engine speed to the

54

Vehicle pulls to one side during braking

1

Defective,

point.

If the vibration occurs at the same engine speed (rpm) regardless of which gear the transmission is in, the driveshaft is NOT at fault since the driveshaft speed varies. If the vibration decreases or is eliminated 3 when the transmission is in a different gear at the same engine speed, refer to the following probable causes. Bent or dented driveshaft. Inspect and 4 replace as necessary (see Chapter 8). Undercoating or built-up dirt, etc. on the 5 driveshaft. Clean the shaft thoroughly and

2

6

Worn

Remove

and inspect (see Chapter 8). Driveshaft and/or companion flange out 7 of balance. Check for missing weights on the shaft. Remove the driveshaft (see Chapter 8) and reinstall 180-degrees from original position, then retest. Have the driveshaft professionally balanced if the problem persists.

damaged

or

disc brake pads or shoes on

oil

contaminated

one

side. Inspect

as described in Chapter 9. Excessive wear of brake shoe or pad 2 material or drum/disc on one side. Inspect and correct as necessary. 3 Loose or disconnected front suspension

components. Inspect and tighten the specified torque (Chapter 10). 4 bly.

Defective

Remove

all

bolts to

drum brake or caliper assemdrum or caliper and inspect

the

stuck piston or other

for a

universal joint bearings.

damage (Chap-

ter 9).

5

Inadequate lubrication of front brake rails. Remove caliper and lubri-

caliper slide

cate slide

55

rails

(Chapter

9).

Noise (high-pitched squeal with the brakes applied)

Disc brake pads worn out. The noise the wear sensor rubbing against the disc (does not apply to all vehicles) or the actual pad backing plate itself if the material is completely worn away. Replace the pads with new ones immediately (Chapter 9). If the pad material has worn completely away, the brake discs should be inspected for damage as described in Chapter 9. Missing or damaged brake pad insula2 1

comes from

Axles Oil leak at seal

damaged (see Chapter 8). seals damaged (see Chap-

oil

required (see Chapters

Driveshaft

47

Pinion seal

Axleshaft

8.

recheck.

Transfer case is overfilled. Drain to the proper level (Chapter 1). 2 Vent is clogged or jammed closed. Clear 1

1

2

Differential inspection cover leaking. 3 Tighten the bolts or replace the gasket as

1 Install a tachometer inside the vehicle to monitor engine speed as the vehicle is driven.

1).

Noisy or jumps out of four-wheel drive Low range

vehicle, shift into Neutral

2

leakage

joint

Vibration

same 1

Oil

ter 8).

fault,

and

8).

universal joint bear-

wear (see Chapter

Pronounced wear in the universal bearings. Check as described in Chapter

50

cant. Drain

inspect (see Chapter

torque.

time, the driveline torque

can make shifting difficult. Stop and shift into two-wheel drive on paved or hard surfaces. 4 Insufficient or incorrect grade of lubricant. Drain and refill the transfer case with the

44

0-21

end of driveshaft

Defective transmission or transfer case proceoil seal. See Chapter 7 for replacement dures. While this is done, check the splined

yoke for burrs or a rough condition which may be damaging the seal. Burrs can be removed with crocus cloth or a fine whetstone.

51

Noise

1

Road

noise.

No

corrective procedures

available.

2

Tire noise. Inspect tires

and check

tire

pressures (Chapter 1). Rear wheel bearings loose, worn or 3 damaged (Chapter 8).

tors (disc brakes).

Chapter

Replace pad insulators (see

9).

Linings contaminated with dirt or grease. Replace pads or shoes. 4 Incorrect linings. Replace with correct

3

48

Knock or clunk when the transmission is under initial load into (just after transmission is put

52

gear)

See probable causes under Driveshaft. Proceed under the guidelines listed for the

Loose or disconnected rear suspension components. Check all mounting bolts, nuts and bushings (see Chapter 10). 1

Vibration

linings.

the problem persists, check the rear wheel bearings by raising the rear of the vehicle and spinning the rear wheels by hand. driveshaft.

56

Excessive brake pedal travel

1

Partial

If

brake system

failure.

Inspect the

Troubleshooting

0-22 entire

system (Chapter

and correct as

9)

60

required.

Check (Chapter

1),

Brake pedal pulsates during brake

drum defective. Remove (Chapter 9) and check for excessive lateral runout and parallelism. Have the disc or drum resur-

the self-adjusters (Chapter

faced or replace

(Chapter

1

Caliper improperly installed.

and inspect (Chapter 2

with a

it

new

61

Vehicle pulls to one side

system

1

Tire pressures

hoses and lines. Replace parts as necessary. Master cylinder mounting bolts/nuts

2

system (Chapter

loose.

4

Master cylinder defective (Chapter

9).

5 Problem with the anti-lock brake system (Chapter 9).

58

adjustment (Chapter

1

1 0).

Excessive effort required to stop

Power brake booster not operating prop-

1

erly

(Chapter

Excessively worn linings or pads. Inspect

if necessary (Chapter 9). One or more caliper pistons or wheel 3 cylinders seized or sticking. Inspect and

rebuild as required (Chapter

It

uneven (Chapter

1

).

Defective tire (Chapter 1). Excessive wear in suspension or steering components (Chapter 10). 4 Front end in need of alignment. Front brakes dragging. Inspect the 5 brakes as described in Chapter 9.

3

62

Shimmy, shake or vibration

1

Tire or

round.

or

shoes

installed

wheel out-of-balance or out-of-

Have

professionally balanced. Loose, worn or out-of-adjustment front wheel bearings (Chap-ter 1). 3 Shock absorbers and/or suspension components worn or damaged (Chapter 10).

63

take a while for the

drum

new

1

material

3

Hoses or

1).

and

lines restricted. Inspect

Air in

power

steering system. Bleed the

system (Chapter

10).

67

tire

Excessive to

wear

(not specific

one area)

1

Incorrect tire pressures (Chapter

2

Tires out-of-balance.

1).

Have profession-

ally balanced. Wheels damaged. Inspect and replace 3 as necessary. 4 Suspension or steering components excessively worn (Chapter 1 0).

68

Excessive

pressures incorrect (Chapter 1). Excessive speed in turns. Front end alignment incorrect (excessive

3

little

Defective shock absorbers. Replace as a

2

the master cylinder

caused by leaking wheel

leaking caliper piston(s), loose,

cylinder(s),

damaged

or

disconnected brake lines. Inspect the entire system and correct as necessary. Worn master cylinder seals (Chapter 9). 2 Problem with the anti-lock brake system 3

professionally aligned.

Broken or weak springs and/or suspen-

sion components. Inspect as described

in

wear on

edge

69

Excessive

1

Inflation

2

Front end alignment incorrect (toe-out).

tire

inside

Chapter 10.

64 1

in

Have

Suspension arm bent or twisted (Chap-

ter 10).

Excessively

stiff

steering

Have 3

or no fluid

wear on outside

Inflation

2

Excessive pitching and/or rolling around comers or during braking

tire

edge

set (Chapter 10).

(or rotor).

Pedal travels to the floor with resistance

(Chapter

1).

Fluid level low (Chapter

4

and not yet

Problem with the anti-lock brake system 6 (Chapter 9).

reservoir

drivebelt faulty or not

2

toe-in).

to seat against the

Little

pump

replace parts as necessary.

9).

will

Steering

1

linings or

New pads

seated.

1

9).

pads contaminated with or grease. Inspect and replace as required

(Chapter

Lack of power assistance

2

9).

and replace

Brake

66

adjusted properly (Chapter

vehicle

1

wheel bearings (Chapters

front

Excessive wear in suspension or steering components (Chapter 10). Steering gearbox damaged or out of 3

4 all

3

59

Loose 10).

9).

Faulty flexible hoses. Inspect

2

5

and

one.

Suspension and steering systems

Air in the hydraulic lines. Bleed the brake

1

oil

steering

2

9).

Disc or

9).

Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed

57

4

in

Problem with the anti-lock brake system

4

2

Excessive play

1

Remove

system if necessary (Chapter 9). 3 Rear brakes not adjusting properly. Make a series of starts and stops while the vehicle is in Reverse. If this does not correct the situation, remove the drums and inspect 9).

65

application

master cylinder. add fluid and bleed the

Insufficient fluid in the

2

Lack of

fluid

reservoir (Chapter

in

power steering

fluid

pressures incorrect (Chapter

1

).

professionally aligned.

Loose or damaged steering components

(Chapter

10).

1).

2

Incorrect tire pressures (Chapter 1 ). Lack of lubrication at steering joints (see 3 Chapter 1).

70

Tire tread

worn

in

4

Front end out of alignment.

1

Tires out-of-balance.

5

Lack of power assistance (see Sec-

2

Damaged

tion 62).

replace

if

one place

or buckled wheel. Inspect

necessary.

9).

3

Defective

tire

(Chapter

1).

and

1

1-1

Chapter

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

Contents

Section replacement Automatic transmission fluid and filter change Automatic transmission fluid level check Battery check, maintenance and charging Brake and Transmission Shift Interlock (BTSI) system check (1996 models with automatic transmission) Brake check Chassis lubrication Cooling system check Cooling system servicing (draining, flushing and refilling) See Chapter Cylinder compression check

Air

filter

change Differential lubricant level check Driveaxle boot check (4WD models) Drivebelt check and replacement Engine oil and filter change Evaporative emissions control system check Exhaust system check Fluid level checks Front wheel bearing check, repack and adjustment

Differential lubricant

6 9

39 1

2

34

2A

SERVICE ENGINE SOON

32

Spark plug replacement Spark plug wire, distributor cap and rotor check and replacement Starter safety switch check Suspension and steering check Tire and tire pressure checks Tire rotation (every 7500 miles or 6 months) Transfer case lubricant change (4WD models) Transfer case lubricant level check Tune-up general information Underhood hose check and replacement Wiper blade inspection and replacement

18

23 13 10

8

36 15

4

29 27 25

replacement Fuel system check

W

Maintenance schedule Manual transmission lubricant change Manual transmission lubricant level check Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve check and replacement Power steering fluid level check Seat belt and restraint system check

24 28

filter

Section

check and adjustment and Z V6 only) (1994 and 1995 VIN

Ignition timing

Introduction

21

(2WD models) Fuel

26 30

light

31

20 35 7 16 See Chapter 6

38 37 17 14 5 19

33 22 3 1

12

Specifications

General Radiator cap pressure rating

15 psi

Brake pad wear

1/8 inch

limit

Recommended

lubricants

and

fluids

Note: Listed here are manufacturer recommendations at the time this manual was written. Manufacturers occasionally upgrade lubricant specifications, so check with your local auto parts store for current recommendations. Engine

and

oil

API "certified for gasoline engines"

Type

See accompanying chart

Viscosity

Manual transmission Borg Warner T-5

lubricant

Dexron

New Venture NV3500 New Venture NV1 500 Automatic transmission Transfer case lubricant

fluid

III®

and 1 2380672 friction modifier Dexron III® Automatic Transmission Dexron III® Automatic Transmission

GM Auto-Trak

II

Fluid Fluid or

fluid

DEX-COOL® silicate-free

or

(refer

DOT 3

fluid

GM

steering fluid

-

fluid

P° wer

80W-90

Differential

(orange-color)

DO NOT

mix the two types to Sections 4, 10 and 34)

coolant

Power

Automatic Transmission Fluid

GM 2345349 Synchromesh transmission lubricant GM 9985648 Synchromesh transmission lubricant

50/50 mi* ture of water and the specified ethylene glycol-based (green color) antifreeze

Enqine coolant

Brake

their fluid

steer,n 9 flu d or equivalent

(GL-5) gear

'

o.l

Capacities* Engine

oil

(with

filter

change)

Fuel tank

4.5 qts

20 9 als

Cooling system

2.2L four cylinder engine through 2000

2001

Engine

oil

viscosity chart

-

for best fuel

economy and cold starting, select the lowest SAE viscosity grade for the expected 1 1

5 qts

,;

99c ts
(q q^ r

cap indicates the 2.3 qts 1.1

Number One

qts

spark plug

V

wire position

q

(

2.4 qts

2001

2.0 qts

Differential

'All

Front

1.3 qts

Rear

2.0 qts

capacities approximate.

Ignition

Add as

necessary to bring to appropriate

level.

system

FIRING

ORDER

1-6-5-4-3-2

Spark plug type and gap* 2.2L four-cylinder engine 1994

with HEI ignition system

Type

AC

Gap

0.060 inch

41-908 or equivalent

AC

•.

Gap

iaJ—

41-928 or equivalent

© © ® ® O

41-948 or equivalent

Gap Through 1998 1999 and later

0.060 inch 0.040 inch

¥^i

t

4.3L V6 engine

1994 and 1995 Type

t

AC CR43TSM

Gap

or equivalent

ig nition (EDI) 124071

AC

41 -932 or equivalent 0.060 inch

Gap

>

system

2BSPEC3 HAYNESI

Cylinder numbering and distributor

Firing order

rotation

2.2L four-cylinder engine 4.3LV6 engine

t

"IRING ORDER 1-6-5-4-3-2

with Enhanced Distributor

0.045 inch

1996 on Type

1

(D

later

AC

QO

fft

0.060 inch

1998 and Type

(£TZ

Jg> 1

1995 thru 1997 Type

-

V6 engines

1-3-4-2 1-6-5-4-3-2

'The Vehicle Emission Control Label

in the

engine compartment,

if

different,

Torque specifications

supersedes

this

information

Ft-ibs

Spark plugs 2.2L four-cylinder engine 4.3LV6 engine Engine oil drain plug Automatic transmission pan bolts Wheel lug nuts

1

Introduction This Chapter

home mechanic and

Blazer,

is designed to help the maintain the Chevrolet S-10

GMC Sonoma

and Jimmy,

Oldsmobile Bravada and Isuzu Hombre mod-

13 11

15 to 20 8 to 10

95 els with the goals of

maximum

economy, safety and

reliability in

included. Refer to the

performance, mind.

tions of the engine

Included is a master maintenance schedule, followed by procedures dealing

various components.

specifically with

each item on the schedule.

checks, adjustments, component replacement and other helpful items ar»

Visual

accompanying illustracompartment and the

underside of the vehicle for the locations of Servicing your vehicle in accordance with the mileage/time maintenance schedule and

the step-by-step procedures

will result in

a

Chapter

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1-3

Engine compartment components (four-cylinder engine) 1

2 3 4

PCV valve

Windshield washer

5

8 9

fluid

reservoir

Engine oil filler cap/dipstick Brake fluid reservoir

6

Air cleaner housing

Clutch

7

Radiator cap

fluid reservoir

10

Power steering

fluid reservoir

Battery

Coolant reservoir

Engine compartment components (Vortec four-cylinder engine) 1

Coolant reservoir

2 3

Battery

4

Radiator cap

Power steering

5 6 7

fluid reservoir

taining

items but not others at the speci-

fied intervals will not

produce the same

results.

disAs you service your vehicle, you'll can - and cover that many of the procedures

of the be grouped together because you're pernature of the particular procedure proximity of forming or because of the close

should

filter

housing

Windshield washer reservoir Brake master cylinder reservoir

8

Automatic transmission

9

Engine

torque of as

For example, if the vehicle is raised, you should inspect the exhaust, suspension, steering and fuel systems while you're under the vehicle. When you're rotating the tires, it

allows.

makes good sense

to

check the brakes since

wrench. Even if you only need it to tighten the spark plugs, you might as well check the

oil

fill

cap

PCV valve

two otherwise unrelated components.

the wheels are already removed. Finally, let's suppose you have to borrow or rent a torque

fluid

dipstick location

10

should planned maintenance program that in produce a long and reliable service life. Keep mainmind that it's a comprehensive plan, so

some

Air

many

critical

fasteners as time

The first step in this maintenance program is to prepare yourself before the actual work begins. Read through all the procedures you're planning to do, then gather up all the parts and tools needed. If it looks like you might run into problems during a particular seek advice from a mechanic or an expe-

job,

rienced do-it-yourselfer.

Chapter

1-4

Typical engine 1

PCV valve

2

Automatic transmission Engine

compartment components 4

5

fluid

6

dipstick location

3

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

oil filler

cap

7

Typical engine 1

Steering grease

4

Balljoint

2 3

Drivebelt

5

Fuel

Spindle (wheel bearings)

6

Transmission

fitting

V6 engine shown) 8 9 10 11

Radiator cap Battery

Coolant reservoir Engine oil dipstick

compartment underside components (2WD)

grease

filter

(early

Brake fluid reservoir Windshield washer fluid reservoir Air cleaner housing Serpentine drivebelt tensioner

fitting

7

8

9

Engine oil pan drain plug Exhaust system Balljoint grease fitting

10

Shock absorber

11

Front disc brake

Chapter

1

Typical engine 1

2 3

Shock absorber Lower radiator hose Drivebelt

compartment underside components (4WD)

4

Front disc brake

7

Automatic

Driveaxle boot

8

Exhaust system Transfer case

10

5 6

Fuel

9

Front differential

11

Engine

filter

Typical rear underside

1

2

Rear shock absorber Exhaust system

1-5

Tune-up and routine maintenance

transmission fluid

components

Driveshaft rear universal joint

5

Fuel

Fuel tank

6

Rear drum brake

filter

oil

pan

pan

Chapter

1-6

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

2 Maintenance schedule based on the assumption be doing the maintenance or service work, as opposed to having a dealer service department do the work. Although the time/mileage intervals are loosely based on factory recommendations, most have been shortened to ensure, for example, that such items as lubricants and fluids are checked/changed at intervals that promote maximum engine/driveline service life. Also, subject to the preference of the individual owner interested in keeping his or her vehicle in peak condition at all times, and with the vehicle's ultimate resale in mind, many of the maintenance procedures may be performed more often than recommended in the following schedule. We encourage such owner initiative. When the vehicle is new it should be serviced initially by a factory authorized dealer service department to protect the factory warranty. In many cases the initial maintenance check is done at no cost to the owner (check with your dealer service department for more information).

The

following maintenance intervals are

that the vehicle

owner

will

Check the transfer case lubricant level (Section 22) Check the brakes (Section 23)* Check the driveaxle CV joint boots (4WD models only) (Section 24)

Inspect the fuel system (Section 26)

Every 30,000 miles or 24 months,

whichever comes

first

items listed above plus: Replace the air filter (Section 26) Replace the fuel filter (Section 27) Check the engine drivebelt (Section 28) Check and repack the front wheel bearings (2WD models (Section 29)"

All

Change the automatic transmission

Every 250 miles or weekly, whichever Check Check Check Check Check

the engine

oil

comes first

and

filter

(Section 30)**

Change the manual transmission lubricant (Section Change the differential lubricant (Section 32) Change the transfer case lubricant (Section 33)

level (Section 4)

the engine coolant level (Section 4) the wiper/washer fluid level (Section 4) the brake and clutch fluid levels (Section 4) the tires and tire pressures (Section 5)

Service the cooling system (drain, flush and

31)

refill)

(green-colored ethylene glycol anti-freeze only) (Section 34) Inspect and replace, if necessary, the PCV valve (Section 35) Inspect the evaporative emissions control system (Section 36) Inspect the spark plug wires, distributor cap and wires

Every 3000 miles or 3 months,

whichever comes

fluid

only)

(Section 37)

first

Replace the spark plugs (conventional spark plugs) (Section 38)

items listed above plus: Check the automatic transmission

All

fluid level

Check the power steering fluid level (Section Change the engine oil and filter (Section 8) Check and service the battery (Section 9)

(Section 6)

Every 50,000 miles or 36 months, whichever comes first

7)

Replace the spark plugs (platinum tipped spark plugs) (Section 38)

Every 7500 miles or 12 months,

whichever comes

first

Every 60,000 miles or 48 months, items listed above plus: Check the cooling system (Section 10) Inspect and replace, if necessary, all underhood hoses

All

Check and

adjust the ignition timing (1995 and earlier

V6 VIN Z

engines only) (Section 39)

(Section 11)

Inspect and replace,

if necessary, the wiper blades (Section 12) Lubricate the chassis (Section 13) Inspect the suspension and steering components (Section 14) Inspect the exhaust system (Section 1 5) Inspect the restraint system (Section 16)

Check the starter safety switch (Section 17) Check the Brake and Transmission Shift Interlock system (Section Rotate the

1

1

9)

Every 15,000 miles or 12 months, whichever comes first Check the manual transmission lubricant level (Section Check the differential lubricant level (Section 21)

20)

first

Service the cooling system (drain, flush and

colored

DEX-COOL®

refill)

(orange-

silicate-free coolant only) (Section 34)

trailer, is operated primarily in stop-and-go conditions or its brakes receive severe usage for any other reason, check the brakes every 3000 miles or three months. "If operated under one or more of the following conditions, change the automatic transmission fluid and repack the front wheel bearings (2WD models) every 15,000 miles: In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90-degrees F (32-degrees C) or higher In hilly or mountainous terrain Frequent trailer pulling *lf

(BTSI)

8)

tires (Section

Every 100,000 miles or 5 years,

whichever comes

the vehicle frequently tows a

.

Chapter

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

1-7

4.4

The

oil

level

should be at or near the upper hole or cross-hatched area on the dipstick

- if it's

below the ADD line, add enough oil to bring the level into the upper hole or

cross-hatched area

Check

the drivebelt

and adjuster

upper part of the engine, resulting curate reading on the dipstick.

(Section 28)

Replace the spark plugs (Section 38)

On V6 engines

the engine oil dipstick (arrow) is mounted on the side of the engine - on four-cylinder engines, unscrew the oil filler cap and pull the dipstick out

4.2

Tune-up general information

3

Major tune-up

Caution: On models equipped with an antitheft audio system, be sure the lockout feature is turned off before performing any procedure which requires disconnecting the battery. The term tune-up is used in this manual to represent a combination of individual operations rather than one specific procedure. If, from the time the vehicle is new, the routine maintenance schedule is followed closely and frequent checks are made of fluid levels and high wear items, as suggested throughout this manual, the engine will be kept in relatively good running condition and the need for additional

work due

to lack of regular

be minimized. This is even a used vehicle, which has not received regular and frequent maintenance checks, is purchased. In such cases, an engine tune-up will be needed outside of the regular routine maintenance intervals. The first step in any tune-up or diagnostic procedure to help correct a poor running engine is a cylinder compression check. A

maintenance

more

likely

will

if

compression check (see Chapter

2, Part

C)

help determine the condition of internal engine components and should be used as a guide for tune-up and repair procedures. If, for instance, a compression check indicates serious internal engine wear, a conventional will

tune-up won't improve the performance of the engine and would be a waste of time and money. Because of its importance, the compression check should be done by someone with the right equipment and the knowledge to use

it

properly.

The following procedures are those most often needed to running engine back

bring a generally poor into a proper state of

Check Check

Minor tune-up Check all engine related fluids (Section Clean, inspect and test the battery (Section 9)

4)

.

.

the charging system (Chapter 5) the fuel system (Section 25)

Replace the air filter (Section 26) Replace the spark plug wires (Section 38)

illus-

tration).

Do

5

much

not

oil

overfill

the engine by adding too

since this

spark plugs,

oil

may

leaks or

result in

oil

oil

fouled

seal failures.

Oil is added to the engine after removing 6 a twist-off cap located on the engine (see

illustration).

A

funnel

may

help to reduce

spills.

Checking the

7

4

Fluid level

checks (every 250

Note: The following are fluid level checks to be done on a 250 mile or weekly basis. Additional fluid level checks can be found in specific maintenance procedures which follow. Regardless of intervals, be alert to fluid leaks under the vehicle which would indicate a problem to be corrected immediately. 1

Fluids are an essential part of the lubri-

cation, cooling, brake

and windshield washer

systems. Because the fluids gradually become depleted and/or contaminated during normal operation of the vehicle, they must

oil level is

preventive maintenance step.

low

miles or weekly)

an important

A

consistently

level indicates oil

leakage through damaged seals, defective gaskets or past worn rings or valve guides. If the oil looks milky in color or has water droplets in it, the cylinder head gasket may be blown or the head or block may be cracked. The engine should be checked immediately. The condition of the oil should also be checked. Whenever you check the oil level, slide your thumb and index finger up the dipstick before wiping off the oil. If you see small dirt or metal particles clinging to the dipstick, the oil should be oil

changed (see Section

8).

be periodically replenished. See Recom-

mended lubricants and fluids

at the beginning

Chapter before adding fluid to any of the following components. Note: The vehicle must be on level ground when fluid levels are checked. of this

Engine

oil

and 4.6 checked with a dipstick (see illustration). The dipstick

Refer to 2

illustrations 4.2, 4.4

The engine

oil

level is

extends through a metal tube oil is

pan.

On

down

into the

four-cylinder engines, the dipstick

part of the

oil filler

cap.

should be checked before the vehicle has been driven, or about 15 minutes after the engine has been shut off. If the oil is checked immediately after driving the vehicle, some of the oil will remain in the 3

tune.

filler

cross hatched area of the dipstick (see

items listed under Minor tune-up plus Check the EGR system (Chapter 6) Check the ignition timing (Section 39)

All

Pull the dipstick

unscrew the

Check the PCV valve (Section 35) Check the air filter (Section 26) Check the cooling system (Section 10) Check all underhood hoses (Section 1 1)

an inac-

from the tube (V6) or cap and withdraw the dipstick (four-cylinder) and wipe all the oil from the end with a clean rag or paper towel. Insert the clean dipstick all the way back into the tube and pull it out again. Note the oil at the end of the dipstick. Add oil as necessary to keep the level above the ADD mark in the 4

Inspect the distributor cap, rotor and sparkplug wires (Section 37)

in

The

oil

level

The engine oil filler cap is clearly marked and threads into the tube on

4.6

the engine

Chapter

1-8

4.9

4.14 Flip the windshield washer fluid cap up to add fluid

The coolant reservoir

right

is located in the (passenger side) front corner of the engine compartment

Engine coolant Refer to

illustration

Do not store new coolant or leave old coolant lying around where it's accessible to children or pets by

its

is

required to bring the system up to

the proper level, water can be used.

diately with plenty of water.

sweet

smell. Ingestion

amount of coolant can be fatal! Wipe up garage floor and drip pan coolant spills immediately. Keep antifreeze containers covered and repair leaks in the Caution: Never mix green-colored ethylene glycol anti-freeze and orange-colored DEXCOOL® silicate-free coolant because doing so will destroy the efficiency of the DEXCOOL® coolant which is designed to last for 100,000 miles or five years. All vehicles covered by this manual are 8 equipped with a pressurized coolant recovery system. A plastic coolant reservoir located at the front of the engine compartment is connected by a hose to the radiator filler neck. As the engine warms up and the coolant expands, it escapes through a valve in the radiator cap and travels through the hose into the reservoir. As the engine cools, the coolant

How-

ever, repeated additions of water will dilute

the antifreeze and water solution.

In

order to

maintain the proper ratio of antifreeze and water, always top up the coolant level with

An empty plastic milk jug makes an excellent container mixing coolant. Do not use rust inhibitors

the correct mixture. or bleach bottle for

or additives.

of even a small

cooling system immediately.

Remove the cell caps to check the

4.16

water

level in the battery

low,

coolant

4.9

Warning: Do not allow antifreeze to come in contact with your skin or painted surfaces of the vehicle. Flush contaminated areas imme-

they're attracted

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

1

If

the coolant level drops consistently,

may be

there

a leak

the radiator, hoses,

water

pump

in

filler

the system. Inspect cap, drain plugs and

(see Section 10).

If

no leaks are

noted, have the radiator cap pressure tested

by a service station. 12 If you have to remove the radiator cap, wait until the engine has cooled completely, then wrap a thick cloth around the cap and turn it to the first stop. If coolant or steam escapes, let the engine cool down longer, then remove the cap. 13 Check the condition of the coolant as well. It should be relatively clear. If it is brown or rust colored, the system should be drained, flushed and refilled. Even if the coolant appears to be normal, the corrosion inhibitors

wear

out,

so

it

must be replaced

at

the specified intervals.

add

distilled

- if

the level

is

water only

Battery electrolyte Refer to 1

All

4.16

illustration

vehicles covered by this manual are

equipped with a battery which is permanently sealed (except for vent holes) and has no filler caps. Water does not have to be added to these batteries at any time; however, if a maintenance-type battery has been installed on the vehicle since it was new, remove all the cell caps on top of the battery (usually there are two caps that cover three cells each). If the electrolyte level is low, add distilled water until the level is above the plates. There is usually a split-ring indicator in each cell to help you judge when enough water has been added (see illustration). Add water until the electrolyte level is just up to the bot-

tom

Do not overfill spew out electrolyte

of the split ring indicator.

the battery or

when

it

is

will

it

charging.

Brake and clutch Refer to

illustrations

fluid

4.17 and 4.18

The brake master cylinder is located on power booster unit in the engine compartment (see illustration). The clutch master cylinder is mounted on the inner fender 17

the front of the

to the

18

left

of the brake master cylinder.

The brake

make

checked above the

reservoir can be

is

automatically drawn back into the cooling system to maintain the correct level.

Windshield washer fluid

visually to

The coolant level in the reservoir should be checked regularly. Warning: Do not remove the radiator cap to check the coolant level when the engine is warm. The level in

Refer to

The fluid level in the clutch reservoir should be near the top of the reservoir (see

the reservoir varies with the temperature of the engine. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at or slightly above

milder climates, plain water can be used in the reservoir, but it should be kept no more

9

the

ADD

tion).

mark on the

Once

reservoir (see illustra-

the engine has

warmed

up, the

should be at or near the FULL HOT mark. If it isn't, allow the engine to cool, then unscrew the cap from the reservoir and add a 50/50 mixture of ethylene glycol based green-colored antifreeze or orange-colored DEX-COOL® silicate-free coolant and water (see Caution above). 10 Drive the vehicle and recheck the coolant level. If only a small amount of level

14

illustration 4.

14

Fluid for the windshield

located

washer system

in

In

than two-thirds full to allow for expansion if the water freezes. In colder climates, use windshield washer system antifreeze, available at any auto parts store, to lower the freezing point of the fluid. Mix the antifreeze with water in accordance with the manufac-

on the container. Caution: Do not use cooling system antifreeze - it will

turer's directions

damage the vehicle's paint. 15 To help prevent icing

in cold weather, the windshield with the defroster before using the washer.

warm

of the plastic

is

windows

in

the

reservoir.

a plastic reservoir on the left side of the engine compartment (see illustration). is

MIN marks

sure the level

illustration).

19

When

adding

fluid,

pour

the reservoir to avoid spilling

it

carefully into

it

on surround-

Be sure the specified used, since mixing different types of brake fluid can cause damage to the system. ing painted surfaces.

fluid is

See Recommended

lubricants

and

fluids at

the front of this Chapter or your owner's

manual. Warning: Brake fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so use extreme caution when handling or pouring it. Do not use brake fluid that has been standing open or is more than one year old. Brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air. Excess moisture can cause a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.

Chapter

4.17 The brake fluid level is easily checked by looking through the windows in the reservoir - the level must never drop below the MIN marks

20 At this time the fluid and master cylinder can be inspected for contamination. The system should be drained and refilled if deposits, dirt particles

or water droplets are seen

in

the

fluid.

21 level,

fluid

After

the reservoir to the proper sure the cap is on tight to prevent

filling

make

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

4.18

The clutch

about

half

fluid level should be an inch from the top of

the reservoir

Check

brake lines and connections (see

all

Section 23 for more information).

23

If,

when checking the master

cylinder

you discover one or both reservoirs empty or nearly empty, the brake system should be bled (see Chapter 9). fluid level,

leakage.

22 The brake fluid level in the master cylinder will drop slightly as the pads at each wheel wear down during normal operation. If the master cylinder requires repeated replenishing to keep it at the proper level, this is an indication of leakage in the brake system, which should be corrected immediately.

5

Tire

and

tire

pressure checks

5.2 Use a tire tread depth gauge to monitor tire wear - they are available at auto parts stores and service stations and cost very little

stranded with a flat tire. It can also provide you with vital information regarding possible problems in the steering and suspension systems before major damage occurs.

The original tires on this vehicle are equipped with 1/2-inch wide bands that appear when tread depth reaches 1/16-inch, indicating the tires are worn out. Tread wear can be monitored with a simple, inexpensive 2

device known as a tread depth indicator (see

(every 250 miles or weekly)

illustration).

1

illustration).

may

Periodic inspection of the tires

spare

you

the

inconvenience

of

Note any abnormal tread wear (see Tread pattern irregularities such as cupping, flat spots and more wear on one 3

Refer to illustrations 5.2, 5.3, 5.4a, 5.4b and 5.8

being

side than the other are indications of front

OVERINFLATION

UNDERINFLATION

CUPPING Cupping may be caused by: • Underinflation and/or mechanical irregularities such as out-of-balance condition of wheel and/or tire, and bent or damaged wheel. • Loose or worn steering tie-rod or steering idler arm. • Loose, damaged or worn front suspension parts.

5.3 This chart will help

INCORRECT TOE-IN

OR EXTREME CAMBER

1-9

you determine the

condition of the tires, the probable cause(s) of abnormal wear and the corrective action necessary

FEATHERING DUE TO MISALIGNMENT

Chapter

1-10

5.4a If a tire looses air on a steady basis, check the valve core first to make sure it's snug (special inexpensive wrenches are

commonly

available at auto parts stores)

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

5.4b If the valve core is tight, raise the corner of the vehicle with the low tire and spray a soapy water solution onto the tread as the tire is turned slowly - leaks will cause small bubbles to appear

5.8 To extend the life of the tires, check the air pressure at least once a week with an accurate gauge (don't forget the spare)

6.6 The automatic transmission fluid level must be maintained within the cross-hatched area on the dipstick, between the upper and lower holes when hot

6.3

The automatic transmission

dipstick (arrow)

is

fluid

located at the rear of

the engine compartment

end alignment and/or balance problems. If any of these conditions are noted, take the vehicle to a tire shop or service station to correct the problem.

4

Look closely

embedded hold

for cuts,

nails or tacks.

punctures and

Sometimes a

tire

pressure for short time or leak down very slowly after a nail has embedded itself in the tread. If a slow leak persists, check the valve stem core to make sure it's tight (see illustration). Examine the tread for an object that may have embedded itself in the tire or for a "plug" that may have begun to leak (radial tire punctures are repaired with a will

air

plug that's installed

in a puncture). If a puncsuspected, it can be easily verified by spraying a solution of soapy water onto the suspected area (see illustration). The soapy

ture

is

solution

will

bubble

if

7

Always check

tires

are cold. Cold,

vehicle has not

is unusually large, a tire shop or service station can usually repair the tire. Carefully inspect the inner sidewall of 5 each tire for evidence of brake fluid. If you see any, inspect the brakes immediately.

Correct air pressure adds miles to the lifespan of the tires, improves mileage and

6

overall ride quality. Tire pressure

level

can lead to slipping or loss of

tire

pressure case,

in this

when means

the the

been driven over a mile

in the pressure check. A pressure rise of four to eight pounds is not uncommon once the tires are warm. Unscrew the valve cap protruding from 8 the wheel or hubcap and push the gauge

three hours preceding a

tire

onto the valve stem (see illustration). Note the reading on the gauge and compare

firmly

recommended tire pressure shown on the label attached to the inside of the glove compartment door. Be sure to reinstall the valve cap to keep dirt and moisture out of the valve stem mechanism. Check all four tires and, if necessary, add enough air to bring them up to the recommended pressure. Don't forget to keep the spare tire 9

the figure to the

of fluid.

2

With the parking brake

engine, then

move

level fluid

all

fluid

if

the vehi-

tube. The dipstick is located at the rear of the engine compartment (see illustration). 4 Carefully touch the fluid at the end of the dipstick to determine

Wipe the

if

the fluid

is

cool,

warm

from the dipstick with a clean rag and push it back into the filler tube or hot.

fluid

until

the cap seats.

5

Pull

the dipstick out again and note the

If

the

the level should be marks on the dipstick (see

fluid felt cool,

illustration).

illustrations 6.3 and 6.6 The automatic transmission fluid should be carefully maintained. Low

The

filler

within the lower

1

through

Park.

has just been driven at high speeds for an extended period, in hot weather in city traffic, or if it has been pulling a trailer. If any of these conditions apply, wait until the fluid has cooled (about 30 minutes). With the transmission at normal operat3 ing temperature, remove the dipstick from the

6

Refer to

in

cle

your owner's manual or the

Automatic transmission fluid level check (every 3000 miles or 3 months)

set, start the

shift lever

rect fluid level readings will result

fluid level.

6

the

level must be checked with the vehicle level and the engine running at idle. Note: Incor-

inflated to the specified pressure (refer to tire sidewall).

drive,

while overfilling can cause foaming and loss

the gear ranges, ending

often inaccurate.

there's a leak. Unless

the puncture

enhances

cannot be accurately estimated by looking at a tire, especially if it's a radial. A tire pressure gauge is essential. Keep an accurate gauge in the vehicle. The pressure gauges attached to the nozzles of air hoses at gas stations are

If

it

felt

warm

or hot, the level

should be within the cross-hatched upper areas on the dipstick. If additional fluid is required, pour it directly into the tube using a funnel. It takes about one pint to raise the level from the lower mark to the upper edge of the cross-hatched area with a hot transmission, so add the fluid a little at a time and

keep checking the

level until it's correct.

1

Chapter

The power

7.2

steering fluid reservoir

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

The engine oil drain plug is located at the rear of the oil pan - it is usually very tight, so use a box-end wrench to avoid rounding off the hex

is

8.7

located near the front (drivebelt end) of the engine; turn the cap counterclockwise for

removal

The condition of the fluid should also be checked along with the level. If the fluid at the end of the dipstick is a dark reddish-brown color, or if the fluid has a burned smell, the fluid should be changed. If you're in doubt about the condition of the fluid, purchase some new fluid and compare the two for color and smell. 7

These tools are required when changing the engine oil and filter

by jackstands. Warning: Do not work under a vehicle which is supported only by a hydraulic

Drain pan

or scissors-type jack. 4 If this is your first

8.2

1

shallow

in

should be fairly depth, but wide to prevent - It

spills

2

Rubber gloves - When removing the drain plug and filter, you will get oil on your hands

(the gloves will

prevent burns)

3

7

Power

steering fluid level check 4

1

ing

illustration 7.2

Unlike manual steering, the power steer-

system

relies

on

fluid

which may, over a

period of time, require replenishing. 2 The fluid reservoir for the power steenng pump is located at the front of the engine

should be 4 Use a clean rag to wipe off the reservoir cap and the area around the cap. This will entering help prevent any foreign matter from the reservoir during the check. Twist off the cap and check the temper5

5

The

level

was hot the COLD mark

the

fluid

HOT mark

should be at the to the touch. if

the fluid

It

if

should be at cool to the

was

touch. required, pour the 7 If additional fluid is reservoir, specified type directly into the using a funnel to prevent spills. requires frequent fluid If the reservoir 8 hoses, hose all power steering

additions,

pump and connections, the power steering should be carethe rack and pinion assembly fully checked for leaks.

Filter

fit

wrench

-

the drain plug)

This

is

a metal band-

type wrench, which requires

clearance around the

to

filter

be

effective

6

Filter

wrench

bottom of the

-

fits on and can be

This type

filter

the

turned with a ratchet or breaker bar (different-size wrenches are available

off.

dipstick ature of the fluid at the end of the with your finger. Wipe off the fluid with a clean rag, rein6 the fluid sert it, then withdraw it and read

-

is tight,

correct size to

(see illustration). For the check, the front wheels should 3 be pointed straight ahead and the engine

level.

Sometimes the oil and a long breaker bar is needed to loosen it Socket - To be used with the breaker bar or a ratchet (must be the Breaker bar drain plug

(every 3000 miles or 3 months) Refer to

1-11

for different types of

8

filters)

Engine oil and filter change (every 3000 miles or 3 months)

Refer to illustrations 8. 14

8.2, 8.

7, 8.

12a, 8.

12b

oil change, get under the vehicle and familiarize yourself with the

locations of the oil drain plug and the oil filter. The engine and exhaust components will be

warm

during the actual work, so try to anticipate any potential problems before the engine and accessories are hot. Park the vehicle on a level spot. Start 5 the engine and allow it to reach its normal operating temperature. Warm oil and sludge will flow out more easily. Turn off the engine

when

it's

warmed

up.

may be necessary

spills.

Access to the underside of the vehicle is if the vehicle can be lifted on a hoist, driven onto ramps or supported

cap

hot.

Frequent oil changes are the best preventive maintenance the home mechanic can give the engine, because aging oil becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear. Make sure you have all the necessary 2 tools before you begin this procedure (see illustration). You should also have plenty of rags or newspapers handy for mopping up

filler

jackstands to support the vehicle when it becomes necessary to place your body underneath the vehicle. 7 Being careful not to touch the hot exhaust components, place the drain pan under the drain plug in the bottom of the pan and remove the plug (see illustration). You may want to wear gloves while unscrewing the plug the final few turns if the engine is

8

any

the

designed solely for raising the vehicle to remove and replace the wheels. Always use

and 1

Remove

from the valve cover. 6 Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Warning: Never get beneath the vehicle when it is supported only by a jack. The jack provided with your vehicle is

Allow the old

oil

to drain into the pan.

to

move

under the engine as the trickle.

Inspect the old

oil

oil

It

the pan farther flow slows to a

for the

presence of

metal shavings and chips. After all the oil has drained, wipe off the 9 drain plug with a clean rag. Even minute

metal particles clinging to the plug would immediately contaminate the new oil. 10 Clean the area around the drain plug opening, reinstall the plug and tighten it

3

securely, but

greatly improved

1

the

Move oil filter.

do not strip the threads. the drain pan into position under

Chapter

1-12

8.12a On V6 engines the oil filter is located remote from the engine, under a cover

12 Loosen the oil filter (see illustrations) by turning it counterclockwise with the filter wrench. Any standard filter wrench should work. Once the filter is loose, use your hands to unscrew it from the block. Just as the filter is detached from the block, immediately tilt the open end up to prevent the oil inside the filter from spilling out. Warning: The exhaust system may still be hot, so be careful. 13 With a clean rag, wipe off the oil filter mounting surface. Also make sure that the old gasket doesn't remains stuck to the mounting surface. It can be removed with a scraper

necessary.

if

1

8.12b The oil filter is usually on very tight as well and will require a special wrench for removal - DO NOT use the wrench to tighten the new filter!

disposal company, disposal

facility

or envi-

ronmental agency to see whether they will accept the oil for recycling. Don't pour used oil into drains or onto the ground. After the oil has cooled, it can be drained into a suitable container (capped plastic jugs, topped botmilk cartons, etc.) for transport to

these disposal

9

Because overtightening the filter will damage the gasket, do not use a filter wrench to tighten the filter. Tighten it by hand illustration).

until

8.14 Lubricate the oil filter gasket with clean engine oil before installing the filter on the engine

19 During the first few trips after an oil change, make it a point to check frequently for leaks and proper oil level. 20 The old oil drained from the engine cannot be re-used in its present state and should be discarded. Check with your local refuse

tles,

Compare the old filter with the new one to make sure they are the same type. Smear some clean engine oil on the rubber gasket of the new filter and screw it into place (see 14

Tune-up and routine maintenance

one

of

sites.

Battery check, maintenance and charging (every 7500 miles or 6

months)

the gasket contacts the seating surface.

Then seat the

filter

by giving

it

an additional

Remove

15

Refer to

illustrations 9. 1,9.4, 9.5a,

9.5b and 9.1

9.5c

3/4-turn. all

tools, rags, etc.

from under

the vehicle, being careful not to spill the the drain pan, then lower the vehicle. 1

Add new

filler

cap

in

oil in

oil to the engine through the oil the valve cover. Use a funnel, if

necessary, to prevent oil from spilling onto the top of the engine. Pour three quarts of fresh oil into the engine. Wait a few minutes to allow the oil to drain into the pan, then check the level on the oil dipstick (see Sec-

Warning: Hydrogen gas is produced by the battery, so keep open flames and lighted tobacco away from it at all times. Always wear eye protection when working around the battery. Rinse off spilled electrolyte immediately with large

amounts of

water.

When

Tools and materials required for battery maintenance

Face shield/safety goggles

-

When

removing corrosion with a brush, the acidic particles can easily fly up into your eyes Rubber gloves - Another safety item

when servicing the remember that's acid inside

4 if necessary). If the oil level is at or near the upper hole on the dipstick, install the filler

removing the battery cables, always detach the negative cable first and hook it up last! Caution: On models equipped with a Delco Loc II audio system, be sure the lockout feature is turned off before performing any procedure which requires disconnecting the bat-

Battery terminal/cable cleaner This wire brush cleaning tool will remove all traces of corrosion from

cap hand

tery.

the battery

Battery maintenance is an important procedure which will help ensure you aren't stranded because of a dead battery. Several tools are required for this procedure (see

Treated

tion

new

oil

tight, start

the engine and allow the

to circulate.

1

17 Allow the engine to run for about a minute. While the engine is running, look under the vehicle and check for leaks at the

pan drain plug and around the oil filter. If either is leaking, stop the engine and tighten

oil

the plug or

filter.

Wait a few minutes to allow the oil to trickle down into the pan, then recheck the 18

level

on the dipstick and,

enough hole.

oil

necessary, add to bring the level to the upper if

illustration).

A sealed battery is standard equipment on all vehicles covered by this manual. Although this type of battery has many advantages over the older, capped cell type, and never requires the addition of water, it should still be routinely maintained according to the procedures which follow. 2

to

consider

battery

-

the battery!

and cable washers

felt

-

Placing one

of these on each terminal, directly under the cable end, will help

prevent corrosion (be sure to get the correct type for side-terminal batteries)

Baking soda - A solution of baking soda and water can be used to neutralize corrosion

Petroleum jelly

-

A

layer of this

the battery terminal bolts

prevent corrosion

will

on

help

21

Chapter

9.4

Check the tightness

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

9.5a A tool like this one (available at auto parts stores) is used to clean the side

of the battery cable terminal bolts

1-13

Use the brush

9.5b

to finish the

cleaning job

terminal type battery contact area

Check 3

The

battery

is

located

in,

the right front

corner of the engine compartment. The exterior of the battery should be inspected periodically for

damage such

as a cracked case

or cover.

4 Check the tightness of the battery cable terminals and connections to ensure good electrical connections and check the entire length of each cable for cracks and frayed conductors (see illustration). 5 If corrosion (visible as white, fluffy deposits) is evident, remove the cables from the terminals, clean them with a battery brush and reinstall the cables (see illustrations). Corrosion can be kept to a minimum by using

special treated fiber washers available at auto parts stores or by applying a layer of

petroleum

jelly to

the terminals and cables

assembled. 6 Make sure that the battery tray is in good condition and the hold-down clamp bolt are tight. If the battery is removed from the tray, make sure no parts remain in the after they are

bottom stalled.

clamp 7

of the tray

When

bolt,

do

when

the battery

reinstalling

is

rein-

the hold-down

not overtighten

it.

Information on removing and installing

in Chapter 5. Information on jump starting can be found at the front of this manual. For more detailed battery checking procedures, refer to the Haynes Automotive Electrical Manual.

the battery can be found

Cleaning Corrosion on the hold-down compo8 nents, battery case and surrounding areas can be removed with a solution of water and baking soda. Thoroughly rinse all cleaned areas with plain water. 9 Any metal parts of the vehicle damaged by corrosion should be covered with a zincbased primer, then painted.

flammable, is produced. Do not smoke or allow open flames near a charging or a

when near make sure

the charger is unplugged before connecting or disconnecting the battery from the charger.

10 Slow-rate charging is the best way to restore a battery that's discharged to the point where it will not start the engine. It's also a

good way

Charging

to maintain the battery

charge in a vehicle that's only driven a few miles between starts. Maintaining the battery charge is particularly important in the winter

when the battery must work harder to start the engine and electrical accessories that drain the battery are in greater use. 1

It's

best to use a one or

two-amp

9.5c

The

result should

bat-

(sometimes called a "trickle" charger). They are the safest and put the least strain on the battery. They are also the least expensive. For a faster charge, you can use a higher amperage charger, but don't use one rated more than 1/1 0th the amp/hour rating of the battery. Rapid boost charges that claim to restore the power of the battery in one to two hours are hardest on the battery and can damage batteries that aren't in good tery charger

condition. This type of charging should only in emergency situations. The average time necessary to charge a battery should be listed in the instructions that come with the charger. As a general rule, a trickle charger will charge a battery in 12

be used 1

be a clean, shiny terminal area

couple of hours. 15 If the battery has removable

cell

measure the

hydrome-

specific gravity with a

caps,

every hour during the last few hours of the charging cycle. Hydrometers are available inexpensively from auto parts stores - follow ter

come with the hydromeConsider the battery charged when there's no change in the specific gravity reading for two hours and the electrolyte in the cells is gassing (bubbling) freely. The specific gravity reading from each cell should be very the instructions that ter.

close to the others.

If

not, the battery

proba-

to 16 hours.

bly

has a bad

13 Remove all of the cell caps (if equipped) and cover the holes with a clean cloth to prevent spattering electrolyte. Disconnect the negative battery cable and hook the battery

16

Some

batteries with sealed tops have hydrometers on the top that indicate the state of charge by the color displayed in the hydrometer window. Normally, a brightcolored hydrometer indicates a full charge and a dark hydrometer indicates the battery still needs charging. Check the battery manu-

charger leads to the battery posts (positive to positive, negative to negative), then plug in the charger. Make sure it is set at 12-volts if it

has a selector switch. 14 If you're using a charger with a rate higher than two amps, check the battery regularly during

Warning: When batteries are being charged, hydrogen gas, which is very explosive and

Wear eye protection the battery during charging. Also,

recently charged battery.

charging to

make

sure

doesn't overheat. If you're using a trickle charger, you can safely let the battery charge overnight after you've checked it regularly for the first it

cell(s).

built-in

facturer's instructions to what the colors mean.

17

be sure you know

the battery has a sealed top and no hydrometer, you can hook up a digital voltmeter across the battery terminals to If

built-in

check the charge. A fully charged battery should read 12.5-volts or higher.

Chapter

1-14

the

Check could

chafed area that prematurely.

for a

fail

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

left until

reaches a stop.

sounds

sure

the system), wait

in

down on

press

Check for a soft area indicating the hose has deteriorated inside.

it

hissing

If

you hear any

(indicating there until

it

is still

stops.

pres-

Now

the cap with the palm of your

hand and continue turning to the left until the cap can be removed. Thoroughly clean the cap, inside and out, with clean water. Also clean the filler neck on the radiator. All traces of corrosion should be removed. The coolant inside the radiator should be relatively transparent. If it is rust colored, the system should be drained and refilled (see Section 34). If the coolant level is not up to the top, add additional antifreeze/coolant mixture (see Section 4).

Carefully check the large upper and lower radiator hoses along with any smaller diameter heater hoses which run from the engine to the firewall. Inspect each hose

4

Overtightening the clamp on a hardened hose will damage the hose and cause a leak.

along which

its is

entire length, replacing any hose cracked, swollen or shows signs of

deterioration.

apparent

Cracks may become more is squeezed (see illus-

the hose

if

tration).

5 tight.

Make sure

A

hose connections are

all

leak in the cooling

show up as

system

will

usually

white or rust colored deposits on

the areas adjoining the leak.

If

wire-type

clamps are used at the ends of the hoses, it may be wise to replace them with more

Check each hose

for swelling and oil-soaked ends. Cracks and breaks can be located by squeezing the hose.

secure screw-type clamps.

Use compressed remove bugs, leaves,

6

air

or a soft brush to

etc.

from the front of

conditioning condenser.

the radiator or

air

careful not to

damage

fins or cut yourself

Be

the delicate cooling

on them.

Every other inspection, or at the first indication of cooling system problems, have the cap and system pressure tested. If you don't have a pressure tester, most gas stations and repair shops will do this for a minimal charge. 7

10.4 Hoses, like drivebelts, have a habit of failing at the worst possible time - to prevent the inconvenience of a blown radiator or heater hose, inspect them carefully as shown here

10

Cooling system check (every 7500 miles or 6 months)

11

Underhood hose check and replacement (every 7500 miles or 6 months)

General 1

Warning: Replacement of air condition-

ing hoses

Refer to

illustration 10.4

Caution: Never mix green-colored ethylene and orange-colored DEXCOOL® silicate-free coolant because doing so will destroy the efficiency of the DEXCOOL® coolant which is designed to last for 100,000 miles or five years. Many major engine failures can be 1 attributed to a faulty cooling system. If the vehicle is equipped with an automatic trans-

glycol anti-freeze

.

mission, the cooling system also cools the fluid and plays an important role in prolonging transmission life. The cooling system should be checked 2 with the engine cold. Do this before the vehi-

transmission

cle

driven for the day or after the engine off for at least three hours. Remove the radiator cap by turning it to

is

must be

department or

air

a dealer service conditioning shop that has left to

equipment to depressurize the system Never remove air conditioning components or hoses until the system has been the

safely.

expanded and/or hardened where over the

It's

aren't used,

make

hose to

leak.

If

clamps

sure the hose hasn't

it

slips

to leak.

common in

for

vacuum hoses,

the emissions system, to

correct installation.

When

checking vacuum hoses, be sure any plastic T-fittings in the check. Inspect the fittings for cracks and the hose where it fits over the fitting for distortion, which could cause leakage. 7 A small piece of vacuum hose (1/4-inch inside diameter) can be used as a stethoscope to detect vacuum leaks. Hold one end of the hose to your ear and probe around vacuum hoses and fittings, listening for the "hissing" sound characteristic of a vacuum leak. Warning: When probing with the vacuum hose stethoscope, be careful not to allow your body or the hose to come into contact with moving engine components such as the drivebelt, cooling fan, etc. 6

to include

Fuel hose Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don't smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don't work in a garage where a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water heater or clothes dryer) with a pilot light is present. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a Class B type fire extinguisher on hand. The fuel system is under pressure, so if any lines must be disconnected, the pressure in the system must be relieved first (see Chapter 4 for more information).

Check

8

all

rubber fuel lines for deteriora-

and chafing. Check especially for cracks in areas where the hose bends and just before fittings, such as where a hose attaches to the fuel filter and fuel injection

tion

unit.

tension, allowing the

it

be color coded or identified by colored stripes molded into each hose. Various systems require hoses with different wall thickness, collapse resistance and temperature resistance. When replacing hoses, be sure the new ones are made of the same material. Often the only effective way to check a 5 hose is to remove it completely from the vehicle. If more than one hose is removed, be sure to label the hoses and fittings to ensure

9

3

quite

especially those

High temperatures under the hood can cause the deterioration of the rubber and plastic hoses used for engine, accessory and emission systems operation. Periodic inspection should be made for cracks, loose clamps, material hardening and leaks. Information specific to the cooling system hoses can be found in Section 10. Some, but not all, hoses are secured to 3 the fittings with clamps. Where clamps are used, check to be sure they haven't lost their

has been shut

allowing

Vacuum hoses 4

depressurized.

2

fitting,

specifically line, High-quality fuel for high-pressure fuel-injection

destgned

applications,

must be used

for fuel

line

replacement. Never, under any circumstances, use unreinforced vacuum line, clear plastic tubing or water hose for fuel lines. 10 Spring-type clamps are commonly used

on

fuel lines.

These clamps often lose

their

tension over a period of time, and can be "sprung" during the removal process. As a result spring-type clamps should be replaced with screw-type clamps whenever a hose is replaced.

1

Chapter

Squeeze the end of the windshield wiper element to free it from the bridge claw, then slide the element out

12.5 Depress the release lever, then slide the blade assembly out of the hook in the

end

of the wiper

Sections of steel tubing often used for between the fuel pump and fuel

and

kinks

flat

Check

spots

in

carefully for cracks,

the

line.

12 If a section of metal fuel line must be replaced, only seamless steel tubing should be used, since copper and aluminum tubing

do not have the

strength necessary to with-

stand normal engine vibration. Check the metal brake lines where they 13 enter the master cylinder and brake propor-

and

used) for cracks in the lines Any sign of brake fluid leakage calls for an immediate thorough inspection of the brake system. tioning unit

loose

12.12 On rear wipers, pull the element out of the end, the slide it from the frame

(if

7

Grasp the end

of the wiper

bridge

securely with one hand and the element with the other. Detach the end of the element from the bridge claw and slide to free

it,

then slide

the element out (see illustration).

8

Compare

the

new element

with the old

for length, design, etc.

9

Slide the

new element into the claw into end last and secure the claw

place, notched

into the notches.

Reinstall the blade

assembly on the arm,

wet the windshield and

test for proper opera-

1

tion.

fittings.

Wiper blade inspection and replacement (every 7500 miles or 6 months)

12

Rear wiper Remove the nut and detach the wiper 11 arm assembly. Grasp the of the wiper bridge securely 12 with one hand pull the end of the element out of the bridge claw and slide to free it, then slide the

13

element out (see

Installation

is

13.1

Refer to

illustrations 12.5, 12.7

body

the reverse of removal.

and 12.12

1 The windshield and rear wiper and blade assemblies should be inspected periodically for damage, loose components and cracked

worn blade elements. 2 Road film can build up on the wiper blades and affect their efficiency, so they should be washed regularly with a mild detergent solution. 3 The action of the wiping mechanism can

sary,

checked. elements (sometimes If the wiper blade 4 warped, called inserts) are cracked, worn or they should be replaced with

new

ones.

Windshield wiper Remove the wiper blade assembly from release lever the wiper arm by depressing the it (see while pulling on the blade to release 5

illustration).

cle,

vehiWith the blade removed from the from you can remove the rubber element

lubrication

Engine

oil

like this

can be used

-

Light engine for

oil in a can door and

hood hinges 13

Chassis lubrication (every 7500 miles or 6 months)

2

Refer to

illustrations 13.1, 13.6a, 13.6b,

13.6c, 13.8a 1

and 13.8b

Refer to

Recommended

lubricants

grease gun (see illustration). Occasionally plugs will be installed rather than grease fittings. If so, grease fittings will have to be purchased and installed. Look under the vehicle and see if grease 2 fittings or plugs are installed. If there are plugs, remove them and buy grease fittings, which will thread into the component. A dealer or auto parts store will be able to supply the correct fittings. Straight, as well as

-

Used

to lubricate

Grease - Grease, in a variety of types and weights, is available for use in a grease gun. Check the Specification for your requirements

and

the front of this Chapter to obtain the necessary grease, etc. You'll also need a

fluids at

Graphite spray lock cylinders

3

or

loosen the bolts, nuts and fasteners, so they should be checked and tightened, as necesblades are at the same time the wiper

Materials required for chassis and

illustration). 1

6

1-15

the blade.

fuel line

injection unit.

12.7

arm

Metal lines 1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

4

Grease gun - A common grease shown here with a detachable hose and nozzle, is needed for gun,

chassis lubrication. After use, clean thoroughly!

removed

it

at this interval for tire rotation or

brake inspection, loosen the lug nuts slightly while the vehicle is still on the ground. 4 Before beginning, force a little grease out of the nozzle to remove any dirt from the

end

of the gun.

Wipe the nozzle clean with a

angled, fittings are available.

rag.

3

For easier access under the vehicle, a jack and place jackstands it with under the frame. Make sure it's safely supported by the stands. If the wheels are to be

5

raise

rags, crawl under the vehicle

With the grease gun and plenty of clean and begin lubri-

cating the components.

6

Wipe one

of the

grease

fittings

clean

Chapter

1-16

13.6a Location of the lower balljoint grease fitting (arrow)

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

13.6b The upper balljoint grease fitting is easier to reach if the front wheel is

13.8a Be careful not to pump too much grease into the clutch shaft fitting (arrow) - one or two pumps should do

and push the nozzle trations).

Pump

firmly over

the gun

until

it (see illusthe balljoint

rubber seal is firm to the touch. Do not pump too much grease into the fitting as it could rupture the seal.

Wipe the excess grease from the components and the grease fitting. Repeat the 7

procedure for the remaining fittings On manual transmission-equipped 8 models, lubricate the clutch linkage pivot points with clean engine oil. Some models have a grease fitting for the internal clutch fork ballstud located

on the clutch housing (see illustration). Be careful not to pump too much grease into this fitting because it could cause the clutch to malfunction. On some

models its possible to unscrew the access plug and apply a small dab on grease on the contact area between the clutch release lever and release cylinder pushrod (see illustration). Again,

be careful not to use too much

13.6c

(arrow)

13.8b

Be sure to grease each arm balljoint (arrow)

steering

removed

Use a mirror and

flashlight to look

into the inspection hole (arrow)

14.4

and apply

Check the suspension arm and

stabilizer bar

connections (arrows)

a small dab of grease in the clutch lever and release cylinder pushrod contact area

grease on the hood latch mechanism. Have an assistant pull the hood release lever from inside the vehicle as you lubricate the sis

cable at the latch. 11 Lubricate all the hinges (door, hood, etc.) with engine oil to keep them in proper working order. 1 The key lock cylinders can be lubricated with spray graphite or silicone lubricant,

which

is

available at auto parts stores.

Lubricate the door weatherstripping with silicone spray. This will reduce chafing and 1

visually

ing

components

for wear.

Because

steer-

of the

work to be done, make sure the vehicle cannot fall from the stands. 3 Check the wheel bearings. Do this by spinning the front wheels. Listen for any abnormal noises and watch to make sure the wheel spins true (doesn't wobble). Grab the top and bottom of the tire and pull in-and-out on it. Any movement would indicate a loose wheel bearing assembly. If the bearings are suspect, refer to Section 29 and Chapter 1 for

more information. From under the

vehicle check for loose broken or disconnected parts and deteriorated rubber bushings on all suspension and steering components (see illustra-

4

retard wear.

check the suspension and

and

bolts,

14

Suspension and steering check (every 7500 miles or 6 months)

Check the steering gear seals for leaks. Check the power steering hoses and connec-

tion).

tions for leaks.

Refer to

illustrations 14.4

and

Indications of a fault

14.5

5

these systems

fluid or

Check the shock absorbers or leaking damage (see illustration). Have an assistant turn the steering

grease.

1

cable, along with the cable guides

Clean and lubricate the parking brake and levers. This can be done by smearing some of the chassis grease onto the cable and its related

are excessive play in the steering wheel before the front wheels react, excessive sway around corners, body movement over rough

6 wheel from side-to-side and check the steer-

parts with your fingers.

roads or binding at some point as the steering wheel is turned. Raise the front of the vehicle periodically 2

the steering doesn't react with the movement of the steering wheel, try to determine where the slack is located.

9

10

Open

the

hood and smear a

little

chas-

in

ing

components

and binding.

If

for free

movement, chafing

Chapter

Exhaust system check (every 7500 miles or 6 months)

Refer to

illustrations 15.2a

and 15.2b

Tune-up and routine maintenance

Check the exhaust system rubber hangers for cracks and damage

Check for signs of oil leaks in this area of each shock absorber (arrow)

4 If any of the above checks reveal problems with the seat belt system, replace parts as necessary. 5 On air bag-equipped models, inspect the air bag cover for damage or warping.

1-17

Check the exhaust system connections to the chassis

15.2a

14.5

15

1

15.2b

19

Tire rotation (every

7500 miles or

6 months) Refer to

illustration 19.2

The

should be rotated at the speciand whenever uneven wear is

With the engine cold (at least three hours after the vehicle has been driven), check the complete exhaust system from the engine to the end of the tailpipe. Ideally, the inspection should be done with the vehicle on

17

a hoist to permit unrestricted access. If a hoist is not available, raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Check the exhaust pipes and connec2 tions for evidence of leaks, severe corrosion and damage. Make sure that all brackets and hangers are in good condition and tight (see

Warning: During the following checks there's a chance the vehicle could lunge forward, possibly causing damage or injuries. Allow plenty of room around the vehicle, apply the parking brake and hold-down the regular brake pedal during the checks. 1 Try to start the engine in each gear. The

3 Refer to the information in Jacking and towing at the front of this manual for the proper procedures to follow when raising the vehicle and changing a tire. If the brakes are going to be checked, don't apply the parking brake as stated. Make sure the tires are blocked to prevent the vehicle from rolling as

illustrations).

engine should crank only in Park or Neutral. Make sure the steering column lock 2 allows the key to go into the Lock position

it's

raised.

4

The same

1

1

3

At the

same

time, inspect the underside

open seams, etc. which may allow exhaust gases to enter the interior. Seal all body openings with siliof the

body

for holes, corrosion,

cone or body

putty.

Starter safety switch

check

noticed.

(every 7500 miles or 6 months)

2

only

when

The the Lock 3

18

suspension parts, secure the exhaust system with new mounts.

16

1

Seat belt and restraint system check (every 7500 miles or 6 months) Check the seat

plates

belts,

and guide loops

for

buckles, latch

obvious

damage

and signs of wear. 2 See if the seat belt reminder light comes Start on when the key is turned to the Run or position. A chime should also sound. The seat belts are designed to lock up 3 yet allow during a sudden stop or impact,

movement during normal driving. Make against sure the retractors return the belt the belt your chest while driving and rewind unlatched. fully when the buckle is

free

Refer to the

accompanying

illustration

for the preferred tire rotation pattern.

the

shift lever is in

ignition

key should

Park.

come

out only

in

position.

Rattles and other noises can often be 4 traced to the exhaust system, especially the

mounts and hangers. Try to move the pipes, muffler and catalytic converter. If the components can come in contact with the body or

tires

fied intervals

Brake and Transmission Shift Interlock (BTSI) system check (1996 models with automatic transmission) (every 7500 miles or 6 months)

entire vehicle should

be raised

time. This

make sure the vehicle is safely supported. 5 After rotation, check and adjust the tire pressures as necessary and be sure to check the lug nut tightness.

Warning: During the following check there's a chance the vehicle could lunge forward, possibly causing damage or injuries. Allow plenty of room around the vehicle and be ready to hold-down the regular brake pedal during the check. Park the vehicle on a level surface with 1 the engine

2

off.

Be prepared

to apply the vehicle brakes

necessary and, with the parking brake securely applied, turn the ignition key to the if

Run

position, then try to

out of Park. If the lever 3

move

the

shift lever

LR

RR

RADIAL TIRE ROTATION

not move out of Park, the operating properly. If lever does move out of Park, take the vehicle to your dealer to have the BTSI system checked.

BTSI system

will

at

can be done on a hoist or by jacking up each corner and then lowering the vehicle onto jackstands placed under the frame rails. Always use four jackstands and the

11-AJHAYNESI

is

19.2 Tire rotation diagram

Chapter

1-18

1

20.1 Locations of the manual transmission check and drain plugs (arrows)

20

Tune-up and routine maintenance

21 .2a Rear differential fill/check plug

21 .2b Front differential fill/check plug location (arrow)

location (arrow)

Manual transmission lubricant level check (every 15,000 miles or 12 months)

Refer to

"

illustration 20.

The manual transmission has a fill plug which must be removed to check the lubri1

cant level (see illustration).

If

the vehicle

is

be sure

to

raised to gain access to the plug,

support it safely on jackstands - DO NOT crawl under a vehicle which is supported only by a jack! Remove the plug from the transmission 2 and use your little finger to reach inside the housing to feel the lubricant level. The level should be at or near the bottom of the plug

^^WQH|^^^|

^p

M

.

22.1 Transfer

case check and drain plug

locations (arrows)

hole. If it isn't, add the recommended lubri3 cant through the plug hole with a syringe or

squeeze bottle. 4 Install and tighten the plug and check for leaks after the first few miles of driving.

22

check (every 15,000 miles or 12 months)

Differential lubricant level

Refer to

illustrations

The

21.2a and 21.2b

has a filler plug which must be removed to check the lubricant level. If the vehicle is raised to gain access to the plug, be sure to support it safely on jackstands - DO NOT crawl under the vehicle when it's supported only by the jack. 2 Remove the filler plug from the side of 1

differential

1

suspected. Raise the vehicle and place it securely on jackstands. Remove the wheels (see Jacking and towing at the front of this manual, if necessary).

Transfer case lubricant level check (every 15,000 miles or 12 months)

Refer to

21

Disc brakes

illustration 22.

The

transfer case

lubricant

level

is

checked by removing the upper plug located in the back of the case (see illustration). After removing the plug, reach inside the 2 hole. The lubricant level should be just at the bottom of the hole. If not, add the appropriate lubricant through the opening.

23

Brake check (every 15,000 miles or 12 months)

The

be at the botnot, use a syringe

lubricant level should

tom of the plug opening. If to add the recommended lubricant

starts to run out of the opening.

until

it

just

On some

models a tag is located in the area of the plug which gives information regarding lubricant type, particularly on models equipped with a limited slip differential.

4

Install

the plug and tighten

Warning: Brake system dust is hazardous to your health. DO NOT blow it out with compressed air or inhale it. DO NOT use gasoline or solvents to remove the dust. Use brake system cleaner or denatured alcohol only. Note: For detailed photographs of the brake system, refer to Chapter 9. 1

it

Refer

securely.

In

addition to the specified intervals, the

brakes should be inspected every time the wheels are removed or whenever a defect is

(front) 23.5

to illustrations

Disc brakes can be checked without removing any parts except the wheels. 2

Extensive disc

damage can occur when needed.

if

the pads

are not replaced

3

The disc brake pads have

indicators which

make a

built-in

wear

high-pitched squeal-

ing sound when the pads are worn. Caution: Expensive damage to the disc can result if the pads are not replaced soon after the wear

indicators start squealing.

4

the differential (see illustrations).

3

23.5 Look through each end of the caliper to check the thickness of the pad lining, which rubs against the disc (arrow)

The disc brake

the pads, are

now

which contain There is an outer each caliper. All pads

calipers,

visible.

pad and an inner pad in should be inspected. 5 Check the material thickness by inspecting the end of the pad or by looking into the "window" in the caliper (see illustration). If the pad material has worn to about 1/8-inch thick or less, the pads should be replaced.

6

If

you're unsure about the exact thick-

2 1

8 7

Chapter

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

1-19

of fluid leakage. With your finger or a small

screwdriver, carefully pry back the rubber cups on the wheel cylinder located at the top of the brake shoes. Any leakage here is an indication that the wheel cylinders should be overhauled immediately (see Chapter 9). Also, check all hoses and connections for

signs of leakage.

Wipe the

1

inside of the

drum

with a clean

rag and denatured alcohol or brake cleaner.

Again, be careful not to breathe the danger-

ous brake dust.

Check the

1

inside of the

drum

for cracks,

score marks, deep scratches and "hard spots"

23.14 If the lining is bonded to the brake shoe, measure the lining thickness from the outer surface to the metal shoe, as shown here (A); if the lining is riveted to the shoe, measure from the lining outer surface to the rivet head

which will appear as small discolored areas. If imperfections cannot be removed with fine emery cloth, the drum must be taken to an automotive machine shop for resurfacing. 19 Repeat the procedure for the remaining wheel.

If

are

good

condition, reinstall the brake

install

the wheels and lower the vehi-

in

drums,

ness of the remaining lining material, remove the pads for further inspection or replace-

ment

(refer to Chapter 9). Before installing the wheels, check for leakage and/or damage at the brake hoses and connections. Replace the hose or fittings as necessary, referring to Chapter 9. Check the condition of the brake rotor. 8 Look for score marks, deep scratches and

7

appear blue or wear is noted, the disc can be removed and resurfaced by an automotive machine shop or replaced with a new one. Refer to Chapter 9 for more detailed inspection and repair procedures. overheated areas (they discolored).

If

damage

Drum brakes Refer to

will

or

it

will

Some models have

10

and

optional rear disc

Steps 2 through 8 as shown

in

for front disc

brakes.

lock the

drums

in

The parking brake is operated by a hand and locks the rear brake system. The easiest, and perhaps most obvious, method lever

checking the operation of the is to park the vehicle with the parking brake set and

parking brake assembly

on a steep

Remove the wheels, referring to Jacking towing at the front of this manual if nec-

hill

rolling,

Driveaxle boot check (4WD models) (every 15,000 miles or 12 months) 24.2

essary.

Refer to

Mark the hub so it can be reinstalled in the same position. Use a scribe, chalk, etc. on the drum, hub and backing plate.

The driveaxle boots are very important because they prevent dirt, water and foreign material from entering and damaging the constant velocity (CV) joints. Oil and grease can cause the boot material to deteriorate prematurely, so it's a good idea to wash the boots with soap and water. Inspect the boots for tears and cracks 2

1

Remove

1

the brake drum. carefully clean

With the drum removed, brake assembly with brake system cleaner. Warning: Don't blow the dust out 13

the

with (it

compressed

may

air

and don't

inhale

contain asbestos, which

is

any of it

harmful to

your health). Note the thickness of the lining material 14 on both front and rear brake shoes. If the 1/8-inch of material has worn away to within the the recessed rivets or metal backing, shoes should be replaced (see illustration). The shoes should also be replaced if they're covered cracked, glazed (shiny areas), or with brake

15

Make

fluid.

sure

all

the

brake assembly

condition. springs are connected and in good for signs 16 Check the brake components

illustration

1

as well as loose clamps (see illustration). If there is any evidence of cracks or leaking grease, they must be replaced as described in

Chapter

25

on your skin, rinse it off immedisoap and water. Mop up any spills immediately and do not store fuel-soaked rags where they could ignite. The fuel system is under constant pressure, so, if any fuel lines are to be disconnected, the fuel pressure in the system must be relieved first (see Chapter 4 for more information). When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a Class B type fire extinguisher on hand. 1 The fuel system is most easily checked with the vehicle raised on a hoist so the components underneath the vehicle are readily visible and accessible.

8.

Fuel system check (every 15,000 miles or 12 months)

Warning: Gasoline

is

any

fuel

ately with

21

24

type appliance (such as a water heater or clothes dryer) is present. Since gasoline is carcinogenic, wear latex gloves when there's a possibility of being exposed to fuel, and, if you spill

Parking brake

of periodically

(arrow)

open flames or bare light bulbs near the work and don't work in a garage where a gas-

brakes. Follow the inspection procedures

place.

shown

area,

Disc brakes (rear) 20

Push on the boot and check for cracks or leaking grease in the area

24.2

parts

cle to the ground.

brake cannot prevent the vehicle from it needs service (see Chapter 9).

14

Raise the vehicle and support it securely 9 on jackstands. Block the front tires to prevent the vehicle from rolling; however, don't apply the parking brake or

all

the transmission in Neutral (be sure to stay in the vehicle during this check!). If the parking

(rear)

illustration 23.

the inspection reveals that

extremely flammable, so

take extra precautions

when you work on any smoke or allow

part of the fuel system. Don't

2

If

the smell of gasoline

is

noticed while

been in the the system should be thoroughly inspected immediately. 3 Remove the gas tank cap and check for driving or after the vehicle has

sun,

damage, corrosidn and an unbroken sealing imprint on the gasket. Replace the cap with a new one if necessary. 4 With the vehicle raised, inspect the gas tank and filler neck for cracks and other dam-

The connection between the filler neck and tank is especially critical. Sometimes a filler neck will leak due to cracks, problems a home mechanic can't repair. Warning: Do not, under any circumstances, try to repair a fuel tank yourself (except rubber components). A welding torch or any open flame can age.

easily cause the fuel vapors to explode if the proper precautions are not taken. Carefully check all rubber hoses and 5 metal lines leading away from the fuel tank. Check for loose connections, deteriorated hoses, crimped lines and other damage. Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle, carefully inspecting them all the way. Repair or

replace

damaged

sections as necessary.

Chapter

1-20

26.8b Separate the housing halves

26.8a Detach the air cleaner housing clips

27.4a Use two wrenches to loosen the and detach if from the filter (if available, use a flare nut wrench on the fuel line nut fitting)

fuel lines

26

Air filler

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

of the fuel ting tic

filter

replacement (every 8

30,000 miles or 24 months)

Detach the two

halves and

lift

the

clips,

filter

Wipe out the inside of the housing with a clean rag. 10 Place the new filter in the 9

Refer to

illustrations 26.8a,

26.8b and 26.8c

1 At the specified intervals, the air filter should be replaced with a new one. The filter should be inspected between changes.

The air filter 2 cleaner housing

is

located inside the

mounted on top

4

Remove the wing

Lift

the

TBI

air

nuts and

lift

off

27

unit.

cleaner element out of the

Wipe out the inside of the air cleaner 5 housing with a clean rag. Place the new filter into the housing, 6 make sure it seats properly then install the top plate and wing nuts.

Central Port Injection and Multiport Fuel Injection The

located inside the air cleaner housing mounted in the left front corner of the engine compartment. air filter is

replacement (every 30,000 miles or 24 months) Fuel

filter

the top

housing.

7

air

air

of the

plate of the air cleaner housing. While the top plate is off, be careful not to drop anything into the

cleaner

cleaner housing. Make sure it seats properly, seat the two halves together and secure them with the

engine

down

air

clips.

TBI models

3

separate housing

out (see illustrations).

Refer to

illustration

27.4a and 27.4b

Warning: Gasoline

extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don't smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don't work in a garage where a gas-type appliance (such as a water heater or clothes dryer) is present. Since gasoline is carcinogenic, wear latex gloves when there's a possibility of being exposed to fuel, and, if

you

any

is

on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water. Mop up any spills immediately and do not store fuelsoaked rags where they could ignite. The fuel spill

system

fuel

under constant pressure, so, if any fuel lines are to be disconnected, the fuel is

the filter element out of the housing

Lift

The serpentine drivebelt routing is located on the radiator shroud

28.7

On 1997 and

later models one end has a quick disconnect fit- to remove the line squeeze the plasclips on the fitting together and pull back on the line

27.4b

26.8c

diagram

pressure

in

must be relieved first more information). When

the system

(see Chapter 4 for

you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a Class B type fire extinguisher on hand. 1 Relieve the fuel system pressure (see Chapter 4). 2 Raise the vehicle and support

it

securely

on jackstands. 3 Place a container, newspapers or rags under the fuel filter. 4 Use two wrenches, one to steady the fil-

and the other to unscrew the fuel line nut, then separate the connections (see illustrations). It's a good idea to use a flarenut wrench because the wrap-around design ter

it a better grip on the fuel line nut. Detach the filter from the bracket. Install the new filter and connect the

gives

5 6

fuel

lines securely.

28

Drivebelt

check and replacement

(every 30,000 miles or 24 months) Refer to 1

A

illustration 28. is located engine and plays an importhe overall operation of the engine

single serpentine drivebelt

at the front of the

tant role in

and

its

components. Due to

material

make

and should be

up, the belt

its

is

function

and

prone to wear

periodically inspected.

The

9 61 7

Chapter

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

1-21

then push it back into its original position. This should force the outer bearing off the spindle enough so it can be removed. 10 Pull the hub/disc assembly off the spindle. 1

Use a screwdriver to pry the seal out of As this is done, note how

the rear of the hub. the seal

12

is

installed.

Remove

the inner wheel bearing from

the hub.

13

Use solvent

to

remove

all

traces of the

old grease from the bearings,

hub and spindle. A small brush may prove helpful; however make sure no bristles from the brush

and materials needed for front wheel bearing maintenance

29.1 Tools

1

Hammer - A common hammer will

2

do just fine Grease - High-temperature grease that

is

formulated for front wheel

29.15 Work the grease completely into the bearing rollers - if you don't like getting greasy, special bearing packing tools that work with a common grease gun are available inexpensively from auto parts stores

bearings should be used

3

Wood block piece of 2x4,

it

new seal into

hub Needle-nose pliers - Used to straighten and remove the cotter pin the

4

you have a scrap can be used to drive

- If

the

in the spindle

5

Torque wrench

-

This

is

very

ponents and slowly release the tensioner. 7 Route the new belt over the various pulleys,

again rotating the tensioner to allow the

belt to

be

installed,

then release the belt ten-

These models have a drivebelt routing decal on the radiator shroud to help sioner. Note:

during drivebelt installation (see illustration)'

important in this procedure; if the bearing is too tight, the wheel won't turn freely

- if it's

"wobble" on the spindle. Either way, it could mean extensive

wheel

will

Screwdriver - Used seal from the

hub

(a

to

preferred)

Socket/breaker bar - Needed to loosen the nut on the spindle if it's

8

Brush

extremely tight - Together with

some

clean

be used to remove old grease from the hub and spindle

solvent, this will

serpentine belt drives the alternator, power steering pump, water pump and air conditioning compressor.

With the engine off, open the hood and 2 use your fingers (and a flashlight, if necessary), to move along the belt checking for cracks and separation of the belt plies. Also check for fraying and glazing, which gives the belt a shiny appearance. Both sides of the belt should be inspected, which means you will have to twist the belt to check the underside. Check the ribs on the underside of the 3 depth, with belt. They should all be the same

none of the surface uneven. 4 The tension of the belt is maintained by adjustable. the tensioner assembly and isn't The belt should be replaced at the mileage at the specified in the maintenance schedule damaged or front of this Chapter, or if it is

worn. tensioner replace the belt, rotate the to release belt tension.

To 5 counterclockwise 6

Remove

the belt from the auxiliary

it

and

seat, shoulder

repack and adjustment (2WD models) (every 30,000 miles)

Put a small quantity of grease inboard of each bearing race inside the hub. Using your

illustrations 29. 1 and 29. 15 most cases the front wheel bearings will not need servicing until the brake pads are changed. However, the bearings should be checked whenever the front of the vehicle is

Refer to

long screwdriver

1

is

into the bearings, forcing

between the rollers, cone and cage from the back side (see illustration). 1 Apply a thin coat of grease to the spinseal seat.

1

form a

dam

these points to provide and to keep thinned grease from flowing out of the bearing. 18 Place the grease-packed inner bearing into the rear of the hub and put a little more grease outboard of the bearing. 1 Place a new seal over the inner bearing and tap the seal evenly into place with a hamfinger,

at

extra grease availability

remove the

7

grease completely

Front wheel bearing check,

damage 6

Check the bearing races inside the hub for wear and damage. If the bearing races are defective, the hubs should be taken to a machine shop with the facilities to remove the old races and press new ones in. Note that the bearings and races come as matched sets and old bearings should never be installed on new races. 15 Use high-temperature front wheel bearing grease to pack the bearings. Work the

dle at the outer bearing seat, inner bearing

29

too loose, the

embed themselves inside the bearing rollers. Allow the parts to air dry. 14 Carefully inspect the bearings for cracks, heat discoloration, worn rollers, etc.

com-

In

raised for any reason. Several items, including a torque wrench and special grease, are required for this procedure (see illustration). 2 With the vehicle securely supported on jackstands, spin each wheel and check for noise, rolling resistance and freeplay. Grasp the top of each tire with one hand 3 and the bottom with the other. Move the wheel in-and-out on the spindle. If there's any noticeable movement, the bearings should be checked and then repacked with

grease or replaced if necessary. Remove the wheel. 4 Remove the brake caliper (see Chap5 ter 9) and hang it out of the way on a piece of wire. A wood block can be slid between the brake pads to keep them separated, if necessary.

6

mer and

blunt

punch

until it's flush

with the

hub.

20

Carefully place the hub assembly onto the spindle and push the grease-packed outer bearing into position.

21

Install

the washer and spindle nut. Tighten

the nut only slightly (no more than 12 ft-lbs of torque).

Spin the hub in a forward direction while tightening the spindle nut to approxi-

22

mately 20

ft-lbs to seat the bearings and remove any grease or burrs which could

cause excessive bearing play later. 23 Loosen the spindle nut 1/4-turn, then using your hand (not a wrench of any kind), tighten the nut until

it's

snug.

Install

the nut

and a new cotter pin through the hole in the spindle and the slots in the nut lock. If the nut lock slots don't line up, remove the nut lock and turn it slightly until they do. 24 Bend the ends of the cotter pin until they're flat against the nut. Cut off any extra length which could interfere with the dust lock

Pry the dust cap out of the hub using a

screwdriver or

hammer and

chisel.

Straighten the bent ends of the cotter pin, then pull the cotter pin out of the nut lock. Discard the cotter pin and use a new

7

one during reassembly.

Remove the nut lock, nut and washer 8 from the end of the spindle. Pull the hub/disc assembly out slightly, 9

cap.

25

Install

with a

the dust cap, tapping

hammer.

it

into place

Chapter

1-22

30.6 With the rear bolts

in

loose, pull the front of the

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

30.9 Rotate the

place but

pan down to

clip,

filter

then lower

it

out of the retaining

necessary, use a screwdriver to seal from the transmission be careful not to gouge the aluminum housing

30.10

from the transmission

If

remove the

drain the transmission fluid

the lug nuts.

28 Grasp the top and bottom of the tire and check the bearings in the manner described earlier in this Section.

29

Lower the

vehicle.

fluid and change (every 30,000 miles

or 24 months) Refer to 1

illustrations 30.6,

30.9 and 30. 10

At the specified intervals, the transmis-

and replaced. remain hot long after driving, perform this procedure only after the engine has cooled down completely. 2 Before beginning work, purchase the specified transmission fluid (see Recommended lubricants and fluids at the front of this Chapter) and a new filter. Other tools necessary for this job 3 include a floor jack, jackstands to support the vehicle in a raised position, a drain pan capable of holding at least five quarts, newspapers and clean rags. 4 Raise the vehicle and support it securely sion fluid should be drained

Since the

Install the new filter. the gasket surface on the transmission pan is clean, then install a new

11

fluid will

pan loose

with a screwdriver, allowing the fluid to drain

(see illustration).

31

Remove the filter from the mount inside 9 the transmission (see illustration). 1 If the seal did not come out with the fil-

This procedure should be performed has been driven so the lubricant will be warm and therefore will flow out 1

of the differential

2

more

easily.

Raise the vehicle and support

securely

it

on jackstands. 3 The easiest way to drain the differential is to remove the lubricant through the filler plug hole with a suction pump. In fact, this is the only way to remove the front differential lubricant because it has no drain plug or removIf the rear differential's bolt-on cover gasket is leaking, it will be necessary to remove the cover to drain the lubricant (which

also allow you to inspect the differential).

Changing the lubricant with a

Manual transmission lubricant change (every 30,000 miles or 24 months)

suction pump 4 Remove the

fill

plug from the differential

(see Section 20) 1

Raise the vehicle and support

it

securely

on jackstands.

Move

a drain pan, rags,

newspapers

and wrenches under the transmission. 3

Insert the flexible hose. Work the hose down to the bottom of the differential housing and pump the lubricant out.

5

Changing the lubricant by removing

Remove

the transmission drain plug at the bottom of the case and allow the lubri-

the cover

cant to drain into the pan (see illustra-

6

tion 20.1).

and wrenches under the

4

After the lubricant has drained

pletely,

reinstall

com-

the plug and tighten

it

Drain the fluid from the transmission it with solvent and dry it with comair.

7c

after the vehicle

will

Remove the fill plug from the side of the 5 transmission case. Using a hand pump, syringe or funnel, fill the transmission with the specified lubricant until it begins to leak out through the hole. Reinstall the fill plug and

pressed

illustrations 32. 7a, 32. 7b, 32.

able cover.

securely.

pan, clean

Refer to

and 32.9

on the dipstick. 15 Check under the vehicle the first few trips.

for leaks during

change

(every 30,000 miles or 24 months)

Draining

Remove

the remaining bolts, pan and gasket. Carefully clean the gasket surface of the transmission to remove all traces of the old gasket and sealant.

Differential lubricant

the final torque figure is reached. 12 Lower the vehicle and add approximately three and one-half quarts of the specified type of automatic transmission fluid through the filler tube (see Section 6). 13 With the transmission in Park and the parking brake set, run the engine at a fast idle, but don't race it. 14 Move the gear selector through each range and back to Park. Check the fluid level. It will probably be low. Add enough fluid to bring the level up to top of the COLD range

6

Carefully pry the transmission

32

Make sure

gasket on the pan. Put the pan in place against the transmission and, working around the pan, tighten each bolt a little at a time

2

8

The new

appropriate size.

on jackstands. Place the drain pan underneath the 5 transmission pan. Remove the front and side pan mounting bolts, but only loosen the rear pan bolts approximately four turns.

7

it

illustration).

until

30 Automatic transmission filter

remove

from the transmission (see seal can be driven squarely into place using a socket of the

ter,

26 Place the brake caliper near the rotor and carefully remove the wood spacer. Install the caliper (see Chapter 9). 27 Install the wheel on the hub and tighten

tighten

6

it

securely.

Lower the

vehicle.

Drive the vehicle for a short distance, 7 then check the drain and fill plugs for leakage.

Move

a drain pan, rags, newspapers vehicle.

Remove

the bolts on the lower half of the plate (see illustration). Loosen the bolts on the upper half and use them to keep the 7

cover loosely attached \see illustration). Allow the pletely

8

oil

to drain into the pan, then

remove the cover (see

Using a

lint-free rag,

com-

illustration).

clean the inside of

the cover and the accessible areas of the ferential housing.

As

this is

done, check

chipped gears and metal particles

in

the

dif-

for

lubri-

cant, indicating that the differential should

more thoroughly inspected and/or

repaired.

be

1

7

.

Chapter

32.7a

Remove edge

the bolts from the lower of the cover

.

32.7b

34.6

then loosen the top bolts and the lubricant drain out

The drain plug

comer

Thoroughly clean the gasket mating surdifferential housing and the cover

9

,

.

32.9 Carefully scrape the old gasket material off to ensure a leak-free seal

part of the

5

tration).

the plug securely.

10 Apply a thin layer of RTV sealant to the cover flange, then press a new gasket into

6

Fill

until

it

Make

position on the cover.

sure the bolt

Refilling 1 Use a hand pump,

syringe or funnel to the differential housing with the specified lubricant until it's level with the bottom of the Install

the

fill

case

is

and

install

the drain plug

completely drained. Tighten

the case with the specified lubricant level with

the lower edge of the

filler

Install

the

filler

plug and tighten

it

same time

the cooling system is hoses and the radiator cap should be inspected and replaced if defective 2

At the

serviced,

all

(see Section

3

1 0).

Since antifreeze

sonous

hole.

solution,

be

is

a corrosive and poi-

careful not to spill

any of

the coolant mixture on the vehicle's paint or

happens, rinse

immedi-

securely.

your skin.

Drive the vehicle for a short distance and recheck the lubricant level. In some instances a small amount of additional lubri-

ately with plenty of clean water. Consult local

8

fill

plug hole.

Carefully clean

7

holes align properly.

34.7

cause engine damage.

Use a gasket scraper or putty knife to remove all traces of the old gasket (see illus-

is

The block drain plug(s) (arrow) are located below the exhaust manifold(s) (V6 shown)

located at the lower

case and allow the old lubricant to

drain completely. after the

is

32.7c After the lubricant has drained, remove the bolts and the cover

let

of the radiator (arrow)

faces of the plate.

1-23

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

.

cant

will

If

authorities

this

it

about the dumping of antifreeze

before draining the cooling system. areas, reclamation centers have

have to be added.

to

plug.

off

collect

automobile

oil

In

many

been set up

and

drained

antifreeze/water mixtures, rather than allow-

34

33

Transfer case lubricant change (4WD models) (every 30,000 miles

Cooling system servicing (draining, flushing

and

refilling)

(every 30,000 miles or 24 months) Refer to

in

minutes Drive the vehicle for at least 15 lubricant in stop and go traffic to warm the

warm-up procedure

in

the case. Perform Use all gears, including Reverse, to this

4WD

ensure the lubricant

is

sufficiently

drain completely. Raise the vehicle and support 2

on jackstands.

warm

to

securely

plug from the case

34.6 and 34.

Caution: Never mix green-colored ethylene glycol anti-freeze and orange-colored DEXCOOL® silicate-free coolant because doing so will destroy the efficiency of the DEXCOOL® coolant which is designed to last for 100,000 miles or

it

Remove the 3 (see illustration 22.1). lower Remove the drain plug from the 4 filler

illustrations

1

to be added to the sewage system. With the engine cold, remove the radia-

Move a

system should

be drained, flushed and refilled to replenish the antifreeze mixture and prevent formation of rust and corrosion, which can impair the performance of the cooling system and

large container under the radia-

tor to catch the coolant

6

as

it's

drained.

Drain the radiator by opening the drain

plug at the bottom on the

left side (see illusthe drain plug is corroded and can't be turned easily, or if the radiator isn't equipped with a plug, disconnect the lower

tration).

radiator

five years.

Periodically, the cooling

them

tor cap.

5

or 24 months) 1

ing

4

If

hose to allow the coolant to drain. Be on your skin or in

careful not to get antifreeze

your eyes. Note: On later models, the radiator drain plug flows to the side rather than down. Attach a length of hose to the fitting on the drain to lessen spillage.

Chapter

1-24

35.1a On V6 engines the PCV valve is located in the valve cover - to check it, pull it out and feel for suction and shake to make sure it rattles

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

35.1b

7

each cylinder bank). Disconnect the hose from the coolant 8

and remove the reservoir (see

Chapter 3). Flush it out with clean water. Place a garden hose in the radiator filler 9 neck and flush the system until the water runs clear at

all

Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve check and replacement (every 30,000 miles or 24 months)

inserting the

hose

in

the bottom radiator out-

to allow the water to run against the nor-

mal flow, draining through the top. A radiator repair shop should be consulted if further cleaning or repair 11

When

is

is

refilled

regularly drained

with the correct

antifreeze/water mixture, there should be no need to use chemical cleaners or descalers.

12

To

the system,

install the block any radiator hoses and install the reservoir and the overflow hose. 13 Make sure to use the proper coolant (see Caution above). The manufacturer recommends adding GM cooling system sealer part number 3634621 any time the coolant is changed. Slowly fill the radiator with the recrefill

Refer to

plug, reconnect

mixture of antifreeze and water to the base of the filler neck. Wait two minutes and recheck the coolant level, adding if necessary, then install the radiator cap. Add to the reservoir

.until

it

reaches

the lower mark. 1 Keep a close watch on the coolant level and the cooling system hoses during the first few miles of driving. Tighten the hose clamps

and/or add more coolant as necessary. The coolant level should be a little above the HOT

mark on the

reservoir with the engine at nor-

mal operating temperature.

illustrations 35. 1a

and

bracket above the rear axle and behind the gas tank on pick-up models. On sport-utility

models, it's located in the quarter panel area behind the left rear wheel. Check the canister

hoses for damage and deterioration. The evaporative emissions control system is explained in more detail in Chapter 6.

and

all

35. 1b

With the engine idling at normal operating temperature, pull the valve (with hose attached) out of the rubber grommet in the valve cover (see illustrations). 2 Place your finger over the end of the valve. If there is no vacuum at the valve, check for a plugged hose, manifold port, or the valve itself. Replace any plugged or deteTurn

3

off

the engine and shake the

valve, listening for rattle,

replace

it

a

rattle.

with a

To replace the

end and

of the hose, noting

it

out of the

installed position

direction.

When

5 cle,

one.

valve, pull its

PCV

the valve doesn't

If

new

4

make

purchasing a replacement sure

PCV

your particular vehimodel year and engine size. Compare the

old valve with the

it's

for

new one

make

to

sure they

Push the valve

6

until it's

into the

end

of the

hose

grommet for damage and replace with a new one if necessary. Push the PCV valve and hose securely 8 it

into position in the valve cover.

36

illustrations 37.9a, 37.9b,

37.10a

Note: Four-cylinder engines are equipped with a distributor/ess ignition system. The spark plug wires are connected directly to the ignition coils. The distributor used on the V6 engine is mounted at the rear of the block. 1 The spark plug wires should be checked at the recommended intervals and whenever

new spark plugs

are installed

in

the engine.

The wires should be inspected one at a time to prevent mixing up the order, which is 2

essential for proper engine operation.

plug.

Disconnect the plug wire from the spark To do this, grab the rubber boot, twist

and

the wire

4

pull the wire off.

itself,

Check

Do

not pull on

only on the rubber boot.

inside the boot for corrosion,

which will look like a white crusty powder. Push the wire and boot back onto the end of the spark plug. It should be a tight fit on the plug. If it isn't, remove the wire and use pliers

Evaporative emissions control

to carefully crimp the metal connector inside

the boot

them in a charcoal canister and then burn them during normal engine operation. The most common symptom of a fault in 2 the evaporative emissions system is a strong fuel odor in the engine compartment. If a fuel ter.

Refer to

and 37.10b

system check (every 30,000 miles or 24 months) The function of the evaporative emis1 sions control system is to draw fuel vapors from the gas tank and fuel system, store

odor

Spark plug wire, distributor cap and rotor check and replacement (every 30,000 miles or 24 months)

slightly

seated.

Inspect the rubber

7

37

3

are the same.

ommended

more coolant

cap screws

1

valve,

necessary.

the coolant

and the system

distributor

3

riorated hoses.

drain points.

10 In severe cases of contamination or clogging of the radiator, remove it (see Chapter 3) and reverse flush it. This involves let

37.9a Use a Tone head tool to remove the

the valve cover

in

the container under the

engine block drain plug(s), then remove the plug(s) from the block (see illustration). The four-cylinder engine has one block drain plug, while the V6 engine has two (one on

reservoir

located

Positive

After the coolant stops flowing out of

move

is

it

35

the radiator,

On four-cylinder engines the PCV

valve (arrow)

is

detected, inspect the charcoal canis-

The charcoal canister

is

mounted on a

until

it

fits

securely on the end of the

spark plug. Using a clean rag, wipe the entire length 5 of the wire to remove any built-up dirt and grease. Once the wire is clean, check for burns, cracks and other damage. Do not bend the wire excessively or pull the wire lengthwise - the conductor inside might break. 6 On four-cylinder engines, disconnect the wire from the coil pack. Again, pull only on the rubber boot. On V6 engines disconnect the

wire from the distributor at the rear of the engine. Check for corrosion and a tight fit in the same manner as the spark plug end.

Chapter

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

37.10a Use a Torx head screwdriver to remove the distributor rotor

37.9b Inspect the inside of the cap for corrosion, carbon tracks and wear

©

1©

©

^^§fc.--

©

1-25

•

l^L^*

38.2 Tools required for changing

spark plugs 37.10b Check terminals for wear and burn marks

the distributor rotor

Replace the wire 7

one

at the coil

pack or

distributor.

1

at

2

a time, making sure they are securely

loose contacts (see illustrations). 10 Remove the retaining screws and pull

be the rotor off the distributor shaft (it may necessary to use a small screwdriver to genit for cracks and tly pry off the rotor). Examine carbon tracks (see illustrations). Replace defects the cap and rotor if any damage or practice to install a new wires cap and rotor whenever new spark plug new cap, are installed. When installing a at a remove the wires from the old cap one in the cap new the to them attach time and location - do not simultaneously 11

It

exact

is

common

same

remove

all

or the wires from the old cap may occur.

order mix-ups

firing

have

spark plug's porcelain insulator Torque wrench - Although not mandatory, using this tool is the best way to ensure the plugs are tightened

Ratchet

-

Standard hand tool

to

fit

the

spark plug socket

4

Depending on model and you may need special extensions and universal joints to reach one or more of the plugs Spark plug gap gauge - This gauge for checking the gap comes in a variety of styles. Make sure the gap for your

Extension

-

accessories,

5

engine

38

is

included

Spark plug replacement (every 50,000 miles or 36 months)

Refer to illustrations 38.2, 38.5a, 38.5b, and 38.10

38.6a, 38.6b, 38.8, 38.9 1

are noted.

This will

38.5a Spark plug manufacturers using a wire type gauge when checking the gap - if the wire does not slide between the electrodes with a slight drag, adjustment is required

recommend

properly

3

model. Wire sets are available pre-cut, with the rubber boots already installed. Remove

and replace the wires one at a time to avoid mix-ups in the firing order. Detach the distributor cap by removing 9 the cap retaining screws. Look inside it for cracks, carbon tracks and worn, burned or

-

special padding inside to protect the

Check the remaining spark plug wires

fastened at the ignition coil or distributor and the spark plug when the check is complete. are required, If new spark plug wires 8 purchase a set for your specific engine

Spark plug socket

The spark plugs are located

at the sides

of the engine. In most cases, the tools necessary for 2 spark plug replacement include a spark plug socket which fits onto a ratchet (spark plug

sockets are padded inside to prevent damage to the porcelain insulators on the new plugs), various extensions and a gap gauge to check and adjust the gaps on the new

plugs (see illustration).

A

special plug wire

removal tool is available for separating the wire boots from the spark plugs, and is a good idea on these models because the boots fit very tightly. A torque wrench should be used to tighten the new plugs. It is a good idea to allow the engine to cool before removing or installing the spark plugs. The best approach when replacing the 3 spark plugs is to purchase the new ones in advance, adjust them to che proper gap and replace the plugs one at a time. When buying the new spark plugs, be sure to obtain the correct plug type for your particular engine. The plug type can be found in the Specifications at the front of this Chapter and on the Emission Control Information label located under the hood. If these two sources list different plug types, consider the emission control label correct.

4 Allow the engine to cool completely before attempting to remove any of the plugs. While you are waiting for the engine to cool, check the new plugs for defects and adjust the gaps. Check the gap by inserting the proper 5

Chapter

1-26

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

38.6a

When removing the

spark plug wires, boot (arrow)

pull

only on the

38.5b To change the gap, bend the side electrode only, as indicated by the arrows, and be very careful not to crack or chip the porcelain insulator surrounding the center electrode

When removing the spark plug wires, grasp the boot and use a twisting, pulling motion - a tool like this one makes

38.6b

38.8

A socket and extension will

be required to remove the spark plugs on these models

the job easier thickness gauge between the electrodes at

electrode

is

The gap

trode,

bend

between the electrodes should be the same as the one specified on the Emissions Control Information label. The wire should slide between the electrodes with a slight amount of drag. If the gap is incorrect, use the adjuster on the gauge body to bend the

Check

for

the

tip of

the plug (see illustration).

curved side electrode slightly until the proper gap is obtained (see illustration). If the side

not exactly over the center elecit

with the adjuster

cracks

in

until

it

the porcelain insulator

is. (if

any are found, the plug should not be used). 6 With the engine cool, remove the spark plug wire from one spark plug. Pull only on the boot at the end of the wire - do not pull on the wire. A plug wire removal tool should be used if available (see illustrations). 7 If compressed air is available, use it to

38.9 Apply a thin coat of anti-seize compound to the spark plug threads

blow any

dirt

or foreign material

the spark plug hole. will

also work.

A common

The idea here

away from

bicycle

is

pump

to eliminate

the possibility of debris falling into the cylin-

der as the spark plug is removed. 8 The spark plugs on these models are, for the most part, difficult to reach so a spark will be necessary (see Place the spark plug socket over the plug and remove it from the engine

plug socket extension illustration).

38.10 A length of 3/8-inch ID rubber hose will save time and prevent damaged threads when installing the spark plugs

2 3 1

1

Chapter

1-27

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

39.2 Tools needed to check and adjust the ignition timing

Vacuum plugs - Vacuum hoses will, in most cases, have be disconnected and plugged. Molded plugs in various shapes and sizes are available for this

to

Inductive pick-up timing light - Flashes a bright concentrated beam of light when the number one spark plug fires. Connect the leads according to the instructions supplied with the light

Distributor

wrench

-

On some models,

for the distributor is difficult to reach

conventional wrench or socket.

A

the hold-down bolt

and

turn with a

special wrench

like this

must be used

by turning it in a counterclockwise direction. Compare the spark plug with the chart 9 shown on the inside back cover of this manual to get an indication of the general running condition of the engine. Before installing the new plugs, it is a good idea to apply a thin

coat of anti-seize compound to the threads (see illustration) Caution: Do not get antiseize on either the ground or center electrodes.

Thread one of the new plugs into the until you can no longer turn it with your fingers, then tighten it with a torque wrench (if available) or the ratchet. It's a good idea to slip a short length of rubber hose over the 10

hole

of the plug to use as a tool to thread it into place (see illustration). The hose will grip the plug well enough to turn it, but will

end

start to slip

if

the plug begins to cross-thread

Emissions Control Information label inside the engine compartment. The label contains important ignition timing specifications and the proper timing procedure for your specific vehicle. If the information on the emissions label is different from the information included in this Section, follow the procedure

on the

label.

At the specified intervals, or when the distributor has been removed, the ignition timing must be checked and adjusted if necessary. Tools required for this procedure include an inductive pick-up timing light and a distributor wrench (see illustration). Apply the parking brake and block the 3 wheels to prevent movement of the vehicle. The transmission must be in Park (automatic) 2

or Neutral (manual).

4

If

the

SERVICE ENGINE SOON

the hole - this will prevent damaged threads and the accompanying repair costs. Before pushing the spark plug wire onto 1 the end of the plug, inspect it following the procedures outlined in Section 37. 12 Attach the plug wire to the new spark plug, again using a twisting motion on the

on, don't proceed with the ignition

boot until it's seated on the spark plug. 13 Repeat the procedure for the remaining spark plugs, replacing them one at a time to prevent mixing up the spark plug wires.

tor

in

light is

check (see

for more information. The timing system must be bypassed

Chapter 6 5

prior to

checking the

ignition timing.

Locate

Refer to

illustration

adjustment. All vehicles 1

are

equipped with

With the engine off, connect a timing light accordance with the manufacturer's instruc-

Caution:

If

is

preferred).

an inductive pick-up timing

on and engine

off in short

bursts without starting the

order to bring the groove into a position where it can easily be cleaned and marked. Warning: Sfay clear of all moving engine components when the engine is turned over in this manner. 1 Use white soap-stone, chalk or paint to mark the groove in the pulley or flywheel. Also, put a mark on the timing scale corresponding to the number of degrees specified on the Vehicle Emission Control Information label in the engine compartment. 1 Aim the timing light at the marks, again being careful not to come into contact with moving parts. The marks made should in

appear stationary.

light

If

the marks are

correct.

If

in

align-

the marks are

aligned.

14

Shut

off

the engine and tighten the dis-

tributor bolt/nut, being careful not to

move

the distributor.

don't puncture the spark plug

15 to

and plug wire. If the insulation on the plug wire is damaged, the secondary voltage will jump to ground at the damaged point and the engine will misfire. Connect the light to the battery and the number one spark plug wire. The

is

not aligned, turn off the engine.

wire to attach the timing light pick-up lead. Instead use an adapter between the span\ plug

isn't available,

an

9 Locate the notched groove across the crankshaft pulley. It may be necessary to have an assistant temporarily turn the ignition

1 Loosen the hold-down bolt or nut at the base of the distributor. Loosen the bolt/nut only slightly, just enough to turn the distributor (see Chapter 5). 1 Now restart the engine and turn the distributor very slowly until the timing marks are

from the distributor. Before you check the timing, make sure 6 the idle speed is correct (see Chapter 4) and the engine is at normal operating tempera-

tions (an inductive timing light

identified Note: Models other than those timing above do not require periodic ignition

Locate the stamped-steel numbered

timing scale on the front cover of the engine.

connector. Don't unplug the harness connec-

in

39.2

the one at the front

ment, the timing

7

W

8

is

(driver's) side.

the single tan wire with a black stripe that's connected to the distributor and unplug the

ture.

39 Ignition timing check and adjustment (1994 and 1995 and Z V6 only) (every VIN 60,000 miles or 48 months)

number one spark plug on the left

of the engine

and recheck the timing sure the marks are still in alignment. Disconnect the timing light and recon-

Start the engine

make

16 nect any components which were disconnected for this procedure. 17 Reconnect the timing connector, then clear any computer trouble codes set during the ignition timing procedure (see Chapter 6).

1

_28

Chapter

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

Notes

1

2A-1

Chapter 2 Part

A

2.2L four-cylinder engine Contents Section

Camshaft and

lifters -

removal, inspection and installation

CHECK ENGINE SOON Crankshaft front

oil

seal

See Chapter 6

light -

replacement

'.

Cylinder head

-

removal and

Drivebelt check, adjustment

8

See Chapter 2C

Cylinder compression check

10

installation

and replacement

Engine mounts - replacement Engine oil and filter change Engine overhaul - general information Engine - removal and installation Exhaust manifold - removal and installation Flywheel/driveplate - removal and installation

See Chapter

1

16

See Chapter 1 See Chapter 2C See Chapter 2C 7

14

General information

Section Intake manifold

1

1

removal and

6 12 13 15

installation

removal and installation Oil pump - removal and installation Rear main oil seal - replacement Repair operations possible with the engine Oil

pan

-

-

in

the vehicle

2

Rocker arms and pushrods - removal, inspection and installation 4 Spark plug replacement See Chapter 1 Timing chain cover, chain and sprockets - removal, inspection and installation 9 Valve cover - removal and installation 3 Valve springs, retainers and seals - replacement 5 Water pump - removal and installation See Chapter 3

Specifications

General Cylinder numbers (front-to-rear)

1-2-3-4

Firing order

1-3-4-2

Displacement

1

34 cubic inches

Camshaft Lobe lift (intake and exhaust) Through 1998 1999 and later

.-

0.288 inches 0.263 inches -868 to

.869 inches

Bearing journal diameter Bearing oil clearance Gear/thrust plate end clearance*

0.0015 to 0.0039 inch 0.0015 to 0.005 inch

Torque specifications

Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)

Camshaft sprocket bolt Camshaft thrust plate bolts

96 106

Crankshaft pulley bolts

37 77

1

Crankshaft pulley/hub-to-crankshaft bolt

ir|

- |b

1

s

Cylinder head bolts

Step

1

Long

AR ™

bolts

43

Short bolts

e te

Tighten an additional 90-degrees

p

39 38 33

Engine mount-to-engine bolts Engine mount through-bolts..... Engine mount bracket-to-frame bolts Exhaust manifold nuts

" 5 irHbs

Flywheel/driveplate-to-crankshaft bolts Intake manifold-to-cylinder head nuts/bolts

~1

Through 1998 1999 and later Lifter

guide retainer-to-block stud

pan bolts Oil pump-to-block bolt Rocker arm studs Rocker-arm nuts (bolts on 1999 and

ȣ

Oil

Timing chain cover bolts Valve cover bolts

^

|™

32 • later)

1Q)nW 97 h-ibs gg jn _ |bg

1

2 9^9N2 l

^J 11.12a Each of the two

lifter

guides

with a bolt

is

retained

in

the block

11.12b

Remove the

lifter

guides by pulling straight up

>

Chapter 2 Part

2A-10

1

The roller on the bottom of the must turn freely - check for wear and excessive play as well

11.16

1 1

.23b

1.20

-

Measure the camshaft lobes at their greatest dimension and write down the measurements

There are several ways to extract a lifter its bore. A special removal tool is available, but isn't always necessary. On newer engines without a lot of varnish buildup,

inspect the

likely),

block as well.

can often be removed with a small magnet or even with your fingers. A scribe can also be used to pull the lifter out of the bore. Caution: Don't use pliers of any type to remove a lifter unless you intend to replace it with a new one - they will damage the precision machined and hardened surface of the lifters

rendering it useless. Store the lifters in a clearly labeled box in

the

same

lifter

1 1

If

.23c

.

.

.

replace the

measurements

lifter

bores

lifters, it's if

in

the engine

the

good insurance

cam

is

to

worn, or vice-

versa.

Camshaft removal and inspection

bores.

Refer to

Refer to

illustration

15

Clean the

16

Check each

18

11.16

with solvent and dry them thoroughly without mixing them up. lifters

wear.

Check the

Make sure

wall, pushrod seat and score marks and uneven

lifter

roller for scuffing,

rollers for

illustrations 11.20, 11.23a,

11.23b

and 11.23c

Lifter inspection

wear and damage.

the rollers turn freely without excessive play (see illustration). If the lifter walls are damaged or worn (which isn't very

Refer to Section 9 for removal of the

front cover, timing chain

and sprockets.

19 Unbolt and remove the oil pump drive from the rear of the block. Disconnect and remove the camshaft position sensor (see Chapter 6).

20

Remove

the two bolts and the camshaft which side faces against the block (see illustration). 21 Carefully pull the camshaft out of the thrust plate, noting

to Specifications

and subtract the measurements of the lobe diameters dimension to obtain the lobe lift specification

the pushrod seats are worn,

lifters

measure the

camshaft journals and compare the

check the pushrod ends. 1 Even though roller lifters do not have the same cam-to-lifter wear pattern as conventional flat lifters, the manufacturer recommends replacing the cam and lifters as a set. Since the head must be removed to replace

worn or noisy

.23a Using a micrometer,

at their smallest

.

1

to insure their reinstallation

1 1

it can be reinstalled with the wear surface against the camshaft

from

14

plate bolts

note the orientation of the thrust

plate so

.

lifter,

2.2L four-cylinder engine

Remove the camshaft thrust

(arrows)

lifter

A

block. Caution: To avoid damage to the camshaft bearings as the lobes pass over them, support the camshaft near the block as it's

withdrawn.

22 After the camshaft has been removed from the engine, cleaned with solvent and dried, inspect the bearing journals for uneven wear, pitting and evidence of seizure. If the journals are

damaged, the bearing

inserts in

the block are probably damaged as well. Both the camshaft and bearings will have to

be replaced. Camshaft bearing replacement is a procedure that should be done in an automotive machine shop, and requires that the engine be removed from the vehicle and stripped. Refer to Part C of this Chapter for camshaft bearing measurement procedures. 23 If the journals are in good condition, measure the bearing journals with a micrometer to determine their sizes and whether or not they're out-of-round. Also measure the camshaft lobes (see illustrations). 24 Check the camshaft lobes for heat discoloration, score marks, chipped areas, pitting and uneven wear. If the lobes are in good

condition and

if

the lobe

lift

measurements

are as specified, the camshaft can be reused.

Chapter 2 Part

A

A large screwdriver can be used as shown to hold the driveplate from turning while the mounting bolts are

14.2

11.25 Lubricate the camshaft lobes and journals thoroughly with camshaft and lifter assembly lube before installation,

2

Installation

Remove

loosened or tightened

the bolts and detach the

oil

pan. Don't pry between the block and pan or

Refer to

illustration

11.25

damage

Lubricate the camshaft bearing journals cam lobes with camshaft and lifter

25

and

assembly lube (see illustration). 26 Slide the camshaft into the engine. Support the cam near the block and be careful not to scrape or nick the bearings. Install the camshaft thrust plate. Make sure you position the same side towards the block as originally installed. Tighten the bolts

27

to the torque listed

in this

cations. Reinstall the

oil

Chapter's Specifidrive in the

block (see illustration 11.19). If the used lifters are being reinstalled, installed in their original bores.

Coat new or used lifters with camshaft and lifter assembly lube. 29 Lubricate the bearing surfaces of the bores with engine oil. 30 Install the lifter(s) in the lifter bore(s). Note: Make sure the rollers are oriented to rotate parallel to the camshaft lobes. Install the lifter guides, and refer to Sec31 lifter

tion

32

for reinstalling the cylinder head. Refer to Section 9 for installation of the

10

timing chain and sprockets.

the pushrods, pushrod guides, rocker arms and rocker arm retaining nuts each (see Section 4). Caution: Make sure that the pair of lifters is on the base circle of closed) (that is. with both valves

33

Install

camshaft

before tightening the rocker arm bolts. the 34 Tighten the rocker arm nuts to Specifications. torque listed in this Chapter's remaining installation steps are the

35

stuck, dislodge

The

Oil

pan

-

is

removal and

installation

3

Use a scraper

to

remove

traces of

all

sealant from the pan and block, then clean the mating surfaces with lacquer thinner or

acetone.

Installation Install a new rubber 4

that the

Chapter 2, Part of the vehicle. Refer to engine removal procedures.

half-circle seal to

the rear main bearing cap. Apply a thin coat of RTV sealant to the ends of the rubber seal, where it fits into the main bearing cap. Apply

C

for

Installation To install the pump, turn the shaft so the gear tang mates with the slot on the lower end of the oil pump driveshaft. The oil pump should slide easily into place over the oil 5

pump

driveshaft lower retainer.

pull

off

it

Install

tighten

turn the tang until

pump

with the

6

and

it

the

7

Reinstall the

Add

timing chain cover.

leaks.

Install

the

oil

it

it's

pump mounting

to the torque listed

8

5

If

doesn't,

aligned

driveshaft slot.

a 3/16-inch wide by 1/8-inch thick bead of RTV sealant around the oil pan flange and the front circle of the pan, where it contacts the

in this

bolt

and

Chapter's

Specifications.

oil,

oil pan (see Section 12). run the engine and check for

pan and tighten the mount-

ing bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter's

Specifications. Start at the center of the

and work out toward the ends

in

a

pan

14

spiral pat-

Flywheel/driveplate

and

-

removal

installation

tern.

6

The remainder

of installation

of removal. Reinstall the engine

is

reverse

and lower the

Refer to

Install a new filter and add oil to the 7 engine, then start the engine and check for

illustration 14.2

Remove

the transmission (see Chapyour vehicle has a manual transmission, the pressure plate and clutch will also 1

vehicle.

ter 7).

If

have to be removed (see Chapter 8). Jam a large screwdriver in the starter ring gear or driveplate hole to keep the crankshaft from turning, then remove the mounting bolts (see illustration). Since it's fairly heavy, support the flywheel as the last bolt is removed. Warning: The ring gear teeth may be sharp - wear gloves to protect your

leaks.

2

13

Oil

pump - removal and

Removal 2

The manufacturer recommends engine out pan only be removed with the

new one. If the engine is being completely overhauled, install a new oil pump - don't reuse the original or attempt to rebuild it. Note: Check the oil pump pickup tube for looseness where it is pressed into the pump body. If it is loose it could cause engine oiling problems. Don't "fix" a loose one, replace the complete pump assembly.

reassembly.

installation

Removal 1

result

wood and a

with a block of

it

may

the pan

hammer. Note: Some of the fasteners are make a mark on the pan to indicate their location for

1

oil

If

studs. Before removing them,

reverse of removal.

12

to the sealing surfaces

leaks could develop.

oil

pump

28

they must be

and

2A-11

2.2L four-cylinder engine

hands.

Remove the oil pan (see Section 12). Remove the oil pump mounting bolt

from the main bearing cap. Detach the oil pump 3 assembly from the block. 4

If

the

pump

is

and

defective, replace

pick-up

back on the flywheel/drivefrom the crankshaft. On some models there may be a spacer-shim 3

Pull straight

plate to detach

between the driveplate and and automatic transmissionequipped models have a retainer ring installed

crankshaft, it

with a

it

Chapter 2 Part A 2.2L four-cylinder engine

2A-12

Use a large-diameter section of pipe to tap the seal in, or tap around the outer edge with a blunt drift to seat it squarely

oil seal out with a screwdriver - don't nick or scratch the crankshaft or the new seal may leak

15.5 Carefully pry the

in

between the bolts and the driveplate. On manual transmission equipped vehicles, check the pilot bushing and replace it if necessary (see Chapter 8). 4

Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to align the hole in the flywheel/drive-

5

dowel pin

plate with the

the crankshaft,

in

if

Use non-hardening thread-locking compound on the bolt threads and tighten them to the torque'listed in this Chapter's used.

Specifications

in

If equipped, remove the bolt (lower arrow) retaining the sheetmetal heat shield (upper arrow) to the motor mount

15.8

a criss-cross pattern.

8

Press the

the bore

new

J34924

tool no.

16.5

(if

seal into place with available).

must face toward the

The

seal

GM lip

front of the engine.

If

work the seal lip over the end of the crankshaft and tap the seal in with a hammer and blunt drift until it's seated squarely in the bore (see the special tool

isn't available, carefully

illustration).

9 10

Install

the flywheel or driveplate.

equipped with a manual transmission, reinstall the clutch disc and pressure plate. 1 Reinstall the transmission (see ChapIf

ter 7).

15

Rear main

Refer to

oil

seal

illustrations 15.5

The

-

replacement

and

15.8

main bearing oil seal can be replaced without removing the oil pan or 1

crankshaft.

2

Remove

the transmission (see Chap-

ter 7).

equipped with a manual transmission, remove the pressure plate and clutch disc (see Chapter 8). Remove the flywheel or driveplate (see 4 3

16

Engine mounts

-

replacement

rear

If

Refer to

illustrations 16.5

and 16.6

Warning: Improper lifting methods or devices are hazardous and could result in severe injury or death. DO NOT place any part of your body under the engine/transmission when it's supported only by a jack. Failure of the lifting device could result in serious injury

Section 14). Using a seal removal tool or a large 5 screwdriver, carefully pry the seal out of the block (see illustration). Don't scratch or nick the crankshaft in the process.

If the rubber mounts have hardened, 1 cracked or separated from the metal backing plates, they must be replaced. This operation may be carried out with the engine/transmis-

6 Clean the bore in the block and the seal contact surface on the crankshaft. Check the crankshaft surface for scratches and nicks that could damage the new seal lip and

cause

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Caution: On models equipped with a Delco Loc II audio system, be sure the lockout feature is turned off before performing any procedure which requires disconnecting

crankshaft.

3

oil leaks. If the crankshaft is damaged, the only alternative is a new or different

7

Apply a

the seal

lip

coat of clean engine oil to and outer edge of the new seal. light

still in

the vehicle.

2

the battery. port

4

Raise the front of the vehicle and supsecurely on jackstands. Support the engine with a jack. Position

it

left

a

wood

oil

or death.

sion

16.6 Remove the engine mount throughbolt (arrow) - right mount shown,

mount similar

block between the jack head and the raise it enough to take the tension

pan and

mounts. equipped, remove the metal heat shield over the mount (see illustration). 6 Remove the engine mount through-bolt (see illustration). 7 Remove the mount-to-engine bolts and remove the mount. 8 Place the new mount in position. 9 Install the mount-to-engine bolts, lower the engine and install the through-bolt. Tighten all fasteners to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. 10 Remove the jackstands and lower the off the

5

If

vehicle.

2B-1

Chapter 2 Part B 4.3L V6 engine Contents Section Balance shaft

-

removal and

Camshaft and lifters and installation

-

removal, inspection

10

SERVICE ENGINE SOON

light

Crankshaft front

replacement

oil

See Chapter 2C

installation

seal

-

See Chapter 6 8

See Chapter 2C

Cylinder compression check Cylinder heads

removal and

-

Drivebelt check, adjustment

11

installation

See Chapter

and replacement

1

16 See Chapter 1 See Chapter 2C See Chapter 2C

Engine mounts - check and replacement Engine oil and filter change Engine overhaul - general information Engine - removal and installation Exhaust manifolds - removal and installation Flywheel/driveplate - removal and installation

7

14

Section General information Intake manifold - removal and installation Oil pan - removal and installation Oil pump - removal and installation Rear main oil seal - replacement Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle Rocker arms and pushrods - removal, inspection

and installation Spark plug replacement Timing chain cover, chain and sprockets - removal and installation Valve covers - removal and installation Valve springs, retainers and seals - replacement Water pump - removal and installation

4

See Chapter

3 5 See Chapter 3

General numbers

(front-to-rear) " 1 3 "5 2 -4 " 6 1-6-5-4-3-2

Left (driver's) side

Right side Firing order

262 cubic inches

Displacement

The blackened terminal shown on the distributor cap indicates the

Cylinder numbering and

Number One spark plug

distributor rotation

wire position

V6 engines

FIRING

ORDER

1-6-5-4-3-2 with HEI ignition system

FIRING

ORDER

1-6-5-4-3-2 with Enhanced Distributor Ignition (EDI)

system

124071 -2B-3PEC3

HAYNE3I

1

9

Specifications

Cylinder

1

6 12 13 15 2

-

Chapter 2 Part B 4.3LV6 engine

2B-2 Camshaft Bearing journal

Diameter Out-of-round

1.8677 to 1.8697 inches 0.001 inch

limit

Lobe lift 1994 and 1995

VINZ 0.234 inch 0.257 inch

Intake

Exhaust

VINW 0.288 inch 0.294 inch

Intake

Exhaust

1996 on Exhaust Endplay

0.2763 inch 0.2855 inch 0.001 to 0.009 inch

Torque specifications

Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)

Intake

Valve cover bolts

90 in-lbs 106 in-lbs

1994 and 1995 1996 on Intake manifold bolts

1994 and 1995 VIN Z (see illustration 6.29a) All, except bolt A

35

A

41

Lower Upper 1996 on

35 10

Bolt

VINW

26 in-lbs 106 in-lbs 132 in-lbs

Step 1 Step 2 Step 3 Exhaust manifold bolts/stud Step 1 Step 2 Cylinder head bolts 1994 and 1995 1996 on Step 1 (all bolts) Step 2

132 22

in-lbs

65 22

Short bolts

Tighten an additional 55-degrees

Medium

Tighten an additional 65-degrees

Long

bolts

Tighten an additional 75-degrees

bolts

Timing chain cover bolts

1994 1995 on Camshaft sprocket bolts Balance shaft retainer bolts

124 106

in-lbs in-lbs

21

106

in-lbs

Driven gear bolt

Stepl

15

Step 2 Drive gear retaining stud Rocker arm nuts (bolts on 2000 and Rocker arm stud (to cylinder head) Vibration

Hydraulic 6il

damper lifter

bolt

retainer bolts

later)

144 20 35 70 144

in-lbs

100 204

in-lbs

204 216

in-lbs

in-lbs

pan 1994 and 1995 Bolts

Nuts 1996 through 1998 Bolts

Nuts 1999 and Oil

Tighten an additional 35-degrees

pump

later

(all)

bolt

Rear main

oil

seal retainer bolts

Flywheel/driveplate bolts

in-lbs

in-lbs

18

65 132 75

in-lbs

7

Chapter 2 Part B 4.3LV6 engine

3.5 Disconnect the PCV valve (small arrow) and move the coil bracket (large arrow) - pull the heater hoses from their bracket at the rear

1

devoted to invehicle repair procedures for the 4.3L V6 engine. All information concerning engine removal and installation and engine block and cylinder head overhaul can be found in Part

C

is

of this Chapter.

the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) that is located on the forward edge of the dashboard driver's side.

The VIN

and remove

is visible

from

made

with the engine

in

the vehicle. The

intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, timing chain cover gasket, oil pan gasket (on 4WD models only), crankshaft oil seals and cylinder head gaskets are all accessible with the in

place.

components, such as oil pan and oil pump (on 4WD models only), the water pump, the starter motor, the alternator, the distributor and the fuel system components can be removed for repair with the Exterior engine

the intake and exhaust manifolds, the

engine

in

place.

Since the cylinder heads can be removed without pulling the engine, valve '

component

servicing can also be

the engine

accom-

outside the vehicle, through the windshield. If the eighth position in the alpha-numeric code engine. You could is a W, you have the VIN

the vehicle. Replacement of the timing chain and sprockets is also possible with the engine in the

X code. The following repair procedures are based on the assumption that the engine is installed in the vehicle. If the engine has been removed from the vehicle and mounted on a

vehicle.

W

also have a

stand,

Z code

many

of Chapter 2

or

of the steps outlined will

in

plished

with

Valve covers

in

removal and

installation

move the relay bracket bolted to the cowl, pull the spark plug wires from their clips, and disconnect the dipstick tube bracket at the cylinder head and wiggle the tube aside. 5 On 1995 models, disconnect the PCV valve at the valve cover, and unbolt and move the coil bracket (see illustration). On 1996 and later models, unclip and 6 move the spark plug wires, disconnect the vent tube, unbolt the wiring bracket at the alternator, and remove the bolt from the brace on the dipstick tube and wiggle the dipstick tube out of the way. The heater hoses can be moved aside without disconnecting them. 7 Remove the three valve cover bolts, then detach the cover from the cylinder head (see illustration). Note: If the cover is stuck to the cylinder head, bump one end with a block of wiring harness, unbolt and

wood and a hammer to jar it loose. If that doesn't work, try to slip a flexible putty knife between the cylinder head and cover to break the gasket seal. Don't pry at the cover-tohead joint or damage to the sealing surfaces may occur (leading

to oil leaks in the future).

this Part

not apply.

The Specifications included in this Part of Chapter 2 apply only to the procedures contained in this Part. Part C of Chapter 2 contains the Specifications necessary for cylinder head and engine block rebuilding.

Left side

Removal 1

Disconnect the negative cable from the

battery. Caution:

On models equipped

with a

Delco Loc II audio system, be sure the lockout feature is turned off before performing any procedure which requires disconnecting the battery.

Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle

2

Remove

Chapter

the

air

cleaner assembly (see

4).

Right side

Many major

On most models, the PCV valve (right arrow) and hose must be disconnected and moved for left valve cover removal the oil filler tube (left arrow) easily twists out of the valve cover

3.10

improve access to the engine as repairs are performed (see Chapter 1 1 if necessary).

engine

There are three different fuel systems used on the 4.3L V6 engines covered by this manual; refer to Chapter 4 for more detailed information. Some specifications and procedures in this Chapter vary by the specific version of this same basic engine. If there's any doubt as to which version you have, refer to

on the

bolts

the valve cover

If vacuum, exhaust, oil or coolant leaks develop, indicating a need for gasket or seal replacement, the repairs can generally be

General information This Part of Chapter 2

Remove the three

3.7

2B-3

repair operations

can be

accomplished without removing the engine from the vehicle. the Clean the engine compartment and type of presexterior of the engine with some done. It will sure washer before any work is out of make the job easier and help keep dirt the internal areas of the engine. Remove the hood, if necessary, to

Refer to

illustrations 3.5

and

3.

pick-up models, remove the EGR controller and EGR bracket, then tag and disconnect the vacuum lines in the way. On 1994 Blazer and Jimmy models, dis4 connect the PCV valve from the cover, disconnect the heater pipe at the intake manifold (refer to Chapter 1 for the coolant draining procedure), unclip and lay aside the 3

On 1994

Refer to

8

illustration

3.10

On 1994 and 1995

pick-up models,

remove the power brake booster brace, and disconnect the large vacuum hose to the booster.

9 On 1994 Blazer and Jimmy models, disconnect the heat tube to the air cleaner system, the PCV pipe, the rear alternator bracket and remove the spark plug wires from their clips. Disconnect and move aside the large vacuum hose to the brake booster, and the fuel lines at the TBI unit (refer to Chapter 4). 10 On 1995 Blazer and Jimmy models, disconnect and move aside the PCV hose (see illustration).

11

On

all

1996 and

later

models, discon-

aside the PCV valve and tube. Unbolt and set aside the air conditioning

nect and

move

compressor and bracket

(refer to

Chapter

3).

Chapter 2 Part B 4.3L V6 engine

2B-4

4.4 A perforated cardboard box can be used to store the pushrods to ensure that

4.10 Lube the ends of the pushrods and the valve stems with moly-base grease prior to installation of the rocker

they're installed in their original positions -

Moly-base grease applied to the adequate lubrication until oil pressure builds up when the engine is started 4.1 1

pivot balls will ensure

arms

note the label indicating the front of the engine

The remaining

18

DO NOT disconnect the hoses from the compressor. Warning: The air conditioning system is under high pressure. DO NOT disassemble any part of the system unless the system has been depressurized. On 1999 and later models, the compressor does not have to be removed, but disconnect and remove the EGR tube, and disconnect the electrical

connector at the coolant temperature sensor in the cylinder head. 12 Remove the three valve cover bolts, then detach the cover from the cylinder head. Note: If the cover is stuck to the cylinder head, bump one end with a block of wood and a hammer to jar it loose. If that doesn't work, try to slip a flexible putty knife between the cylinder head and cover to break the gasket seal. Don't pry at the cover-to-head joint or damage to the sealing surfaces may occur (leading to oil leaks in the future).

Installation 13 The mating surfaces of each cylinder head and valve cover must be perfectly clean

when the covers scraper to remove

are installed. all

Use a gasket

traces of sealant and old

gasket material, then clean the mating surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone. If there's sealant or

cover

oil

on the mating surfaces when the

is installed, oil

leaks

may develop.

14

Clean the mounting bolt threads with a die to remove any corrosion and restore damaged threads. Make sure the threaded holes in the cylinder head are clean - run a tap into them to remove corrosion and restore

damaged

threads.

15 The gaskets should be mated to the covers before the covers are installed. Apply a thin coat of RTV sealant to the cover flange, then position the gasket inside the cover lip

and allow the sealant to set up so the gasket adheres to the cover. 16

Carefully position the cover(s) on the cylinder head and install the bolts. 1 Tighten the bolts in three or four steps to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications.

installation

steps are the

reverse of removal.

19 oil

and check

Start the engine

leaks as the engine

warms

carefully for

up.

ones and use new pivot balls as well. On 2000 and later models, align the roller rocker arms with the rocker arm supports. 8 Inspect the pushrods for cracks and excessive wear at the ends. Roll each pushrod across a piece of plate glass to see if it's bent (if it wobbles, it's bent).

Rocker arms and pushrods removal, inspection and installation

Installation Refer to

Removal Refer to

9

illustration

with clean engine

4.4

and

Detach the valve cover(s) from the

1

cylin-

der head(s) (see Section 3). 2 Beginning at the front of one cylinder head, loosen and remove the rocker arm stud nuts. Store them separately in marked containers to ensure that they in

be reinstalled Note 1: If the

will

their original locations.

pushrods are the only items being removed, loosen each nut (models through 1998) just enough to allow the rocker arms to be rotated to the side so the pushrods can be lifted out. Note 2: On 2000 and later models, the rollerrocker arms are retained by a bolt, there are

no pivot

balls. Unlike the late four-cylinder

models with roller rockers, the V6 rockers ride on long rocker arm supports that bolt against the cylinder head casting protrusions. Lift off the rocker arms and pivot balls 3 and store them in the marked containers with the nuts (they must be reinstalled in their original locations).

4

Remove

separately to

up during

the pushrods and store them sure they don't get mixed

make

installation

(see illustration).

install

Make the

4.10 and 4.11

illustrations

Lubricate the lower end of each pushrod

them

oil

in

or moly-base grease

their original locations.

sure each pushrod seats completely

in

lifter.

1 Apply moly-base grease to the ends of the valve stems and the upper ends of the pushrods before positioning the rocker arms

over the studs (see illustration). 1 Set the rocker arms in place, then

install

the pivot balls and nuts. Apply moly-base grease to the pivot balls to prevent damage to the mating surfaces before engine oil pressure builds up (see illustration). Be sure to install each nut with the flat side against the pivot ball. Tighten the rocker-arm nuts to the

torque

12

listed in this

Chapter's Specifications. of the installation is the

The remainder

reverse of removal.

13 Start the engine and check for valve cover leaks and valvetrain noise.

Valve adjustment (1994 VIN Z engines only) Refer to

Note:

illustrations

4.14 and 4.17

On most models covered by

this

book,

there are no provisions for valve adjustment.

Inspection Check each rocker arm for wear, cracks and other damage, especially where the 5

pushrods and valve stems contact the rocker

arm

faces.

Make sure the hole at the pushrod end each rocker arm is open. Check each rocker arm pivot area for 7 wear, cracks and galling. If the rocker arms are worn or damaged, replace them with new

The rocker arm studs have a positive stop shoulder for the rocker arm nuts. After valve service, tighten the rocker arm nuts to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. Unless there have been machining operations

6

that significantly altered the valve lash, the

of

adjustment should be correct. Some 1994 VIN Z engines have press-in rocker-arm studs, without a positive stop,

and

require the

following valve adjustment procedure

when-

5

Chapter 2 Part B 4.3L V6 engine

4.14 Align the timing marks on the

damper and

front cover to find

4.17 Rotate each pushrod as the rockerarm nut is tightened until a slight drag is

TDC

felt

(zero lash), then tighten an additional

3/4 turn ever the rocker arms have been loosened or removed. Begin by setting the engine to TDC for 14 piston number 1 Top Dead Center (TDC) is .

the highest point

ton reaches as

it

in

the cylinder that each pis-

travels

up-and-down when

2B-5

Use compressed air to hold the valve closed when the springs are removed the air hose adapter (arrow) threads into the spark plug hole and accepts the hose from the compressor 5.4

the beginning of this Chapter). 1

9

Rotate the cran kshaft 360-degrees (TDC

number 4) and adjust the following rocker arms: number 2, 3 and 4 exhaust valves, and number 4, 5 and 6 intake valves.

the crankshaft turns. Each piston reaches

TDC on

the compression stroke and again on

the exhaust stroke, but TDC generally refers to piston position on the compression stroke.

The timing marks on the vibration damper installed on the front of the crankshaft are referenced to TDC (see illustration) and will line up at TDC for number 1 or number 4. 1 In order to bring any piston to TDC, the crankshaft must be turned using a large socket and breaker bar attached to the bolt threaded into the crankshaft damper. When looking at the front of the engine, normal crankshaft rotation is clockwise. Warning: Before beginning this procedure, be sure to place the transmission in Neutral and unplug the electrical connectors) at the distributor to disable the ignition system. 16 Turn the engine until the mark on the aligns with the "0"

mark on the timing tab while observing the rocker arms for the number 1 cylinder. If the valves were moving

damper

as the marks began to

align,

then this

is

TDC

number 4, and the engine must be turned one more revolution. 17 At TDC for number 1 piston, the following rocker arms can be adjusted: number 1 5, and 6 exhaust valves, and number 1 2 and 3 intake valves. To adjust the valves, tighten To the rocker arm nut 3/4 turn past zero lash.

for

,

,

find zero lash, rotate the

pushrod

(of

the valve

being adjusted) between two fingers while tightening the rocker-arm nut (see illustrapushrod is tion). When a slight drag on the tighten the just felt, all lash is removed, cenrocker-arm nut an additional 3/4 turn to plunger in its travel. has been 18 After the number one piston compression positioned at TDC on the

ter the hydraulic

lifter

TDC for any of the remaining the cylinders can be located by turning followcrankshaft 120-degrees at a time and stroke,

Specifications at ing the firing order (see the

5

Valve springs, retainers and seals -

replacement

Refer to

illustrations 5.4, 5.7a, 5.7b, 5.8,

5.15

and 5. 16 Note: Broken valve springs and defective valve stem seals can be replaced without removing the cylinder heads. Two special tools and a compressed air source are normally required to perform this operation, so read through this Section carefully and rent or

buy the

tools before beginning the job.

Remove the valve cover from the cylin1 der head (see Section 3). If all of the valve stem seals are being replaced, remove both valve covers.

Remove the spark

plug from the cylinder which has the defective component. If all of the valve stem seals are being replaced, all of 2

the spark plugs should be removed. Turn the crankshaft until the piston 3

in the top dead center on the compression stroke (see Section 4). If you are replacing all of the valve stem seals, begin

affected cylinder

with cylinder

is

at

number

and work on the

1

valves for one cylinder at a time. cylinder-to-cylinder following the

sequence

(1

-6-5-4-3-2).

Move from firing

Each cylinder

order in

the

20-degrees of crankshaft rotation (clockwise) from the previous one. Thread an adapter into the spark plug 4 hole (see illustration) and connect an air hose from a compressed air source to it. Most auto parts stores can supply the air hose adapter. Note: Many cylinder compression gauges utilize a screw-in fitting that may work with your air hose quick-disconnect fitting. firing

5

order

is 1

Remove the nut,

pivot ball

and rocker arm and pull out

for the valve with the defective part

the pushrod (see Section

4).

If

all

the valve

Once the spring is depressed, the keepers can be removed with a small magnet or needle-nose pliers (a magnet is preferred to prevent dropping the keepers 5.7a

stem seals are being replaced, all of the rocker arms and pushrods should be removed. 6 Apply compressed air to the cylinder. The valves should be held in place by the air pressure. Warning: If the cylinder isn't exactly at TDC, air pressure may cause the engine to rotate. Do not leave a socket or wrench on the balancer bolt;

damage

or personal injury

may

result.

Stuff shop rags into the cylinder head holes above and below the valves to prevent parts and tools from falling into the engine, then use a valve spring compressor to com-

7

press the spring/damper assembly. Remove the keepers with small needle-nose pliers or a magnet (see illustration). Note: A couple of different types of tools are available for

compressing the valve springs with the cylinder head in place. One type, shown here, grips the lower spring coils and presses on the retainer as the knob is turned, while the other type utilizes the rocker arm stud and nut for leverage (see illustration). Both types work very well, although the lever type is usually less

expensive.

Chapter 2 Part B 4.3LV6 engine

2B-6

1

9M,

*3^ 5.8 The O-ring seal (arrow) should be replaced with a new one each time the keepers and retainer are removed

5.7b The stamped steel lever-type valve spring compressor is usually less expensive that the type that grips the

Make

sure the O-ring seal under the seated in the groove and not twisted before installing the keepers

5.15

retainer

is

spring coils cylinder

Remove

8

the spring retainer,

oil

shield

and valve spring assembly (there is both an inner and outer valve spring for each valve the inner is called a spring damper), then remove the valve stem O-ring seal and the umbrella-type guide seal (intake valves only).

The O-ring seal will most likely be hardened and will probably break when removed, so plan on installing a new one each time the original is removed (see illustration). Note: If pressure fails to hold the valve in the closed position during this operation, the valve face and/or seat is probably damaged.

air

If

so,

the cylinder

removed

head

will

have

to

be

for additional repair operations.

Reapply

tor.

in

valve spring assembly and

carefully install the

new

O-ring seal

lower groove of the valve stem. isn't

twisted

- it

must

lie

the sure

in

Make

perfectly

Inspect the valve stem for damage. Rotate the valve in the guide and check the

movement, which would

indicate that the valve

is

bent.

Move

the valve up-and-down in the guide and make sure it does not bind. If the valve stem binds, either the valve is bent or the guide is damaged. In either case, the

ter

5

1).

Disconnect the

upper radiator and

heater hoses at the front of the engine.

6

Remove

the two rear braces from the

drivebelt tensioner.

7

Unbolt and

move

the emission relays

bracket.

8

Remove

the spark plug wires,

coil

and

Chapters 1 and 5). Note: The should be turned to TDC (see

distributor (see

engine

Section 4) for the number 1 piston. Mark the relationship of the distributor rotor to the distributor housing before removing the distribu-

Removal

Disconnect the fuel lines at the TBI unit 4). Warning: Trie fuel system is under pressure - do not disconnect the lines without following the safety procedures in Chapter 4. 10 Remove the accelerator, cruise control and TV cables from the bracket(s) on the manifold (see Chapter 4). 1 Detach the vacuum brake booster pipe from the manifold. 12 Label and disconnect the fuel lines, vacuum hoses/pipes and wires at the manifold and TBI unit (see Chapter 4). Disconnect and move the EGR hose. 13 14 Loosen the manifold mounting bolts in 1/4-turn increments until they can be removed by hand. Note: Some of the manifold fasteners are studs and will require a deep socket to remove. The manifold will probably be stuck to the cylinder heads and force may be required to break the gasket seal. A large prybar can be positioned under the cast-in lug near the left front mounting

Disconnect the negative cable from the On models equipped with a Delco Loc II audio system, be sure the lockout feature is turned off before performing any procedure which requires disconnecting

have been removed first! Caution: Don'f pry between the block and manifold or the cylinder heads and manifold or damage to the gasket sealing surfaces may

the battery.

occur, leading to

16 Position the keepers in the upper groove. Apply a small dab of grease to the inside of each keeper to hold it in place if necessary (see illustration). Remove the pressure from the spring tool and make sure the keepers are seated. 1 Disconnect the air hose and remove the adapter from the spark plug hole 18 Install the rocker arm(s) and pushrod(s) 4).

1

Install

the valve cover(s) (see Section

20

Install

the spark plug(s) and hook up the

3).

wire(s).

Start and run the engine, then check for leaks and unusual sounds coming from the valve cover area.

21

oil

6

Intake manifold

-

removal and

installation

1

5.16 Apply a small

dab

of grease to

each

keeper as shown here before installation will

Remove the upper fan shroud. Remove the air cleaner assembly (see 3 Chapter 4). 4 Drain the cooling system (see Chap-

flat

the groove (see illustration).

(see Section

it

1994 and 1995 VIN Z models 2

tor.

10

11

for

air

Compress the

the seal

pressure.

for eccentric

have to be removed

pressure to the cylinder to closed position, then remove the tape or rubber band from the valve stem. 13 Lubricate the valve stem with engine oil and install a new umbrella-type guide seal (intake valve only). On 1999 and later models, there are seals on all valve guides. Replacement seals for the exhaust are colored red or brown, while intake seals are black. 14 Install the spring/damper assembly and shield in position over the valve. 15 Install the valve spring retainer or rota12

the

end

will

retain the valve in the

9 Wrap a rubber band or tape around the top of the valve stem so the valve won't fall into the combustion chamber, then release air

head

repair.

-

hold them in place on the valve stem as the spring is released

battery. Caution:

9

(see Chapter

bolt to pry

make

sure

up the all

front of the manifold, but

bolts

vacuum

leaks.

5

Chapter 2 Part B 4.3L V6 engine

-'

2B-7

/

^

Indlcotor

Lamp

0.8 439 Pink

as

0.8

539

Pink

0.8

439

Pink

539

Pink

Ignition

Ignition

Powertroln Control

Module (PCM)

5 Malta

Solid State

•witch

(OoMd

0.45 Volte

with Ignition on) 1.01

VUta

0«ygen

f> Senaor Ground

v_ 0.8

448

White/

as 800 Tan

Block

0.8

White/

as 800 Tan

Block

f V

v 0.8

0.8

White/

Tan

800

Black

Data Line Connector (DLC)

Typical

V6 engine

Throttle

Body

Injection

system wiring diagram

|

(1

of 3)

24071 -12-fHAYNES

12-22

Chapter 12 Chassis

I

Hot ot

oil

tlmoo

|

I

Hot with

Ignition

electrical

system

ON

Oronga Fuel Injoctor

Fuel Injector

A|2

#1

( T

ft i.1

1 1

i

1

i

J


S 20 Amp

S 20 tn Amp Ami

Blot

V '

Indicator* on

|

J

Service

Instrum Instrument Clutter Printed Circuit

Engine Soon'