Haynes Toyota Camry 1983 thru 1991 Automotive Repair Manual 1563920301, 9781563920301

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Toyota

Camry

Automotive

Repair Manual

by Ken Freund and John H Haynes Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers

Models covered:

All Toyota Camry models with gasoline engines 1983 through 1991

Does not include diesel engine information

(6H19 - 92005) ZS

(1023) &

:

AUTOMOTIVE

Ay

Pe Csssorenss AeSAer CHAS, MEMBER Haynes Publishing Group Sparkford Nr Yeovil Somerset BA22 7JJ England Haynes North America, Inc 861 Lawrence Drive Newbury Park California 913820 USA

About this manual Its purpose The purpose of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you

decide what work must be done, even if you choose to have it done by a dealer service department or a repair shop; it provides information and procedures for routine maintenance and servicing; and it offers diagnostic and repair procedures to follow when trouble

occurs. We hope you use the manual to tackle the work yourself. For many simpler jobs, doing it yourself may be quicker than arranging an appointment to get the vehicle into a shop and making the trips to leave it and pick it up. More importantly, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the expense the shop

must pass on to you to cover its labor and overhead costs. An added benefit is the sense of satisfaction and accomplishment that you feel after doing the job yourself.

Using the manual The manual is divided into Chapters. Each Chapter is divided into numbered Sec-

tions, which are headed in bold type between horizontal lines. Each Section consists of consecutively numbered paragraphs. At the beginning of each numbered Section you will be referred to any illustrations which apply to the procedures in that Section. The reference numbers used in illustration captions pinpoint the pertinent Section and the Step within that Section. That is, illustration 3.2 means the illustration refers to Section 3 and Step (or paragraph) 2 within

that Section. Procedures, once described in the text,

are not normally repeated. When it’s necessary to refer to another Chapter, the reference will be given as Chapter and Section number. Cross references given without use of the word “Chapter” apply to Sections and/or paragraphs in the same Chapter. For example, “see Section 8” means in the same Chapter. References to the left or right side of the vehicle assume you are sitting in the driver’s seat, facing forward. Even though we have prepared this manual with extreme care, neither the publisher nor the author can accept responsibility for any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

NOTE A Note provides information necessary to properly complete a procedure or information which will make the procedure easier to understand.

CAUTION A Caution provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the Caution is found. Not heeding a Caution can result in damage to the assembly being worked on.

WARNING A Warning provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the Warning is found. Not heeding a Warning can result in personal injury.

©

Haynes North America, Inc.

1989, 1990, 1992, 1999

With permission from J.H. Haynes & Co. Ltd.

A book in the Haynes Automotive Repair Manual Series

Printed in the U.S.A. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 56392 030 1 Library of Congress Catalog Card Number 92-70524 While every attempt is made to ensure that the information in this manual is correct, no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given. 99-288

° A)

Contents Introductory pages About this manual Introduction to the Toyota Camry Vehicle identification numbers Buying parts Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Jacking and towing Booster battery (jump) starting Automotive chemicals and lubricants Conversion factors Safety first! Troubleshooting

SePPPP

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ae Or ee a Mf a SPPSPPSPQ PP OAR

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

1-1

Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines

2A-1

Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine

2B-1

Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures

2C-1

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

3-1

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

4-1

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

5-1

Chapter 6 Emissions control systems

6-1

Chapter 7 Part A Manual transaxle

TA-1

Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transaxle

7B-1

Chapter 8 Part A Clutch and driveaxles

8A-1

Chapter 8 Part B All-wheel drive system

8B-1

Chapter 9 Brakes

9-1

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

10-1

Chapter 11 Body

11-1

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

12-1

Wiring diagrams

12-11

Index

IND-1

0-4

LENT

RR

1986 Toyota Camry 4-door sedan

Introduction to the Toyota Camry Toyota Camry models are available in 4door sedan, liftback and station wagon body styles. The transversely mounted inline fourcylinder or V6 engines used in these models are equipped with electronic fuel injection. Later model four-cylinder engines are equipped with double overhead cams and

four valves per cylinder. The engine drives the front wheels through either a 5-speed manual or 4-speed automatic transaxle via independent driveaxles. On all-wheel drive models, a transfer case is used to drive the rear wheels through

a driveshaft,

driveaxles.

rear

differential

and

Independent suspension, featuring coil spring/strut damper units, is used on all four wheels. The power assisted rack and pinion steering unit is mounted behind the engine. The brakes are disc at the front with either drum or discs at the rear, depending on model, with power assist standard.

Vehicle identification numbers Modifications are a continuing and unpublicized process in vehicle manufacturing. Since spare parts manuals and lists are compiled on a numerical basis, the individual vehicle numbers are essential to correctly identify the component required.

Vehicle Identification Number

(VIN) This very important identification number is stamped on the firewall in the engine compartment and on a plate attached to the dashboard inside the windshield on the driver's side of the vehicle (see illustration).

The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certificate of Title and Registration. It contains information such as where and when the vehicle was manufactured, the model year and the body style.

Manufacturer's plate The manufacturer's plate is attached to the firewall in the engine compartment (see illustration). The plate contains the name of the manufacturer, the month and year of production, the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating

1983 through 1986 four-cylinder engine code number location

The VIN number plate is attached to the dashboard on the driver’s side of the vehicle

(GVWR), the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) and the certification statement.

Engine numbers The engine code numbers can be found in a variety of locations, depending on engine type (see illustrations).

On 1987 and later four-cylinder engines, the code number is on the rear of the block, just below the cylinder head

Important ID numbers and other information can be found in several locations on the vehicle

Vehicle Identification Number (stamped on firewall) Manufacturer s plate Vehicle Identification Number (visible through the drivers side windshield) Certification regulation plate

V6 engine code number location

0-6

Buying parts Replacement parts are available from many sources, which generally fall into one of two categories - authorized dealer parts departments and independent retail auto parts stores. Our advice concerning these parts is as follows: Retail auto parts stores: Good auto parts stores will stock frequently needed components which wear out relatively fast, such as clutch components, exhaust systems, brake parts, tune-up parts, etc. These

stores often supply new

or reconditioned

parts on an exchange basis, which can save a considerable amount of money. Discount auto parts stores are often very good places to buy materials and parts needed for general vehicle maintenance such as oil, grease, fil-

ters, spark plugs, belts, touch-up

paint,

bulbs, etc. They also usually sell tools and general accessories, have convenient hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home. Authorized dealer parts department: This is the best source for parts which are

unique to the vehicle and not generally available elsewhere (Such as major engine parts, transmission parts, trim pieces, etc.). Warranty information: \f the vehicle is still covered under warranty, be sure that any replacement parts purchased - regardless of the source - do not invalidate the warranty! To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, have engine and chassis numbers available and, if possible, take the old parts along for positive identification.

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Maintenance techniques There are a number of techniques involved in maintenance and repair that will be referred to throughout this manual. Application of these techniques will enable the home mechanic to be more efficient, better organized and capable of performing the various tasks properly, which will ensure that the repair job is thorough and complete.

Most automotive machine shops can perform this task, as well as other repair procedures, such as the repair of threaded holes that have been stripped out. Flat washers and lockwashers, when

Fasteners Fasteners

removed from an assembly, should always be replaced exactly as removed. Replace any damaged washers with new ones. Never use a lockwasher on any soft metal surface (such as aluminum), thin sheet metal or plastic.

=X are

nuts,

bolts,

studs

and

screws used to hold two or more parts together. There are a few things to keep in mind when working with fasteners. Almost all of them use a locking device of some type, either a lockwasher,

Grade 1 or 2

Grade 5

Grade 8

locknut, locking tab or

thread adhesive. All threaded fasteners should be clean and straight, with undamaged threads and undamaged corners on the hex head where the wrench fits. Develop the habit of replacing all damaged nuts and bolts with new ones. Special locknuts with nylon or fiber inserts can only be used once. If they are removed, they lose their locking ability and must be replaced with new ones. Rusted nuts and bolts should be treated with a penetrating fluid to ease removal and prevent breakage. Some mechanics use turpentine in a spout-type oil can, which works quite well. After applying the rust penetrant, let it work for a few minutes before trying to loosen the nut or bolt. Badly rusted fasteners may have to be chiseled or sawed off or removed with a special nut breaker, available at tool stores. If a bolt or stud breaks off in an assembly, it can be drilled and removed with a special tool commonly available for this purpose.

8 Bolt strength marking (standard/SAE/USS; bottom - metric)

Grade

Identification

Hex Nut

Grade

Identification

Hex Nut

Grade 5

Property

Class 9 XS

Arabic 9

Hex Nut Property Class 10

Hex Nut Grades

6 Dots

Standard hex nut strength markings

Arabic 10

Metric hex nut strength markings

Metric stud strength markings 00-1 HAYNES

0-7

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities SS

ees

Fastener sizes For a number of reasons, automobile manufacturers are making wider and wider use of metric fasteners. Therefore, it is important to be able to tell the difference between standard (sometimes called U.S. or SAE) and metric hardware, since they cannot be inter-

Metric thread sizes

Ft-lbs 6 to9

Prec Woes’

changed. All bolts, whether standard or metric, are

sized according to diameter, thread pitch and length. For example, a standard 1/2 - 13 x 1 bolt is 1/2 inch in diameter, has 13 threads per inch and is 1 inch long. An M12 - 1.75 x 25 metric bolt is 12 mm in diameter, has a thread pitch of 1.75 mm (the distance between threads) and is 25 mm long. The two bolts are nearly identical, and easily confused, but they are not interchangeable. In addition to the differences in diame-

UAB Raced cones sct ccsseaarees emmceeatone

eat cet aes

ter, thread pitch and length, metric and standard bolts can also be distinguished by

examining the bolt heads. To begin with, the distance across the flats on a standard bolt head is measured in inches, while the same dimension on a metric bolt is sized in millimeters (the same is true for nuts). As a result, a standard wrench should not be used on a metric bolt and a metric wrench should not be used on a standard bolt. Also, most standard bolts have slashes radiating out from the center of the head to denote the grade or strength of the bolt, which is an indication of the amount of torque that can be applied to it. The greater the number of slashes, the greater the strength of the bolt. Grades 0 through 5 are commonly used on automobiles. Metric bolts have a property class (grade) number, rather than a slash, molded into their heads to indicate bolt strength. In this case, the higher the number, the stronger the bolt. Property class numbers 8.8, 9.8 and 10.9 are commonly used on automobiles. Strength markings can also be used to distinguish standard hex nuts from metric hex nuts. Many standard nuts have dots stamped into one side, while metric nuts are marked with a number. The greater the number of dots, or the higher the number, the greater the strength of the nut. Metric studs are also marked on their ends according to property class (grade). Larger studs are numbered (the same as metric bolts), while smaller studs carry a geometric code to denote grade. It should be noted that many fasteners, especially Grades 0 through 2, have no distinguishing marks on them. When such is the case, the only way to determine whether it is standard or metric is to measure the thread pitch or compare it to a known fastener of the same size. Standard fasteners are often referred to as SAE, as opposed to metric. However, it should be noted that SAE technically refers to a non-metric fine thread fastener only. Coarse thread non-metric fasteners are referred to as USS sizes. Since fasteners of the same size (both standard and metric) may have different

Nm 9 to 12

14 to 21

19 to 28

28 to 40 50 to 71 80 to 140

38 to 54 68 to 96 109 to 154

5to8

7 to 10

12 to 18 22 to 33 25 to 35

17 to 24 30 to 44 34 to 47

6 to9 12 to 14 to 22 to 27 to 40 to

18 20 32 38 55

9 to 12 17 to 24 19 to 27 30 to 43 37 to 51 55 to 74

40 to 60

55 to 81

55 to 80

75 to 108

00-2 HAYNES

Standard (SAE and USS) bolt dimensions/grade marks

Grade marks (bolt strength) Length (in inches) 4r-Q®Thread pitch (number of threads per inch) D Nominal diameter (in inches)

Metric bolt dimensions/grade marks

P L T D_

Property class (bolt strength) Length (in millimeters) Thread pitch (distance between threads in millimeters) Diameter

strength ratings, be sure to reinstall any bolts, studs or nuts removed from your vehicle in their original locations. Also, when replacing a fastener with a new one, make sure that the new one has a strength rating equal to or greater than the original.

made

Tightening sequences and

These torque values are for dry (unlubricated) fasteners threaded into steel or cast iron (not aluminum). As was previously mentioned, the size and grade of a fastener determine the

procedures Most threaded fasteners should be tightened to a specific torque value (torque is the twisting force applied to a threaded component such as a nut or bolt). Overtightening the fastener can weaken it and cause it to break, while undertightening can cause it to eventually come loose. Bolts, screws and studs, depending on the material they are

of and their thread

diameters,

have

specific torque values, many of which are noted in the Specifications at the beginning of each Chapter. Be sure to follow the torque

recommendations closely. For fasteners not assigned a specific torque, a general torque value chart is presented here as a guide.

amount of torque that can safely be applied to it. The figures listed here are approximate for Grade 2 and Grade 3 fasteners. Higher grades can tolerate higher torque values. Fasteners laid out in a pattern, such as cylinder head bolts, oil pan bolts, differential cover bolts, etc., must be loosened or tight-

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

—s

Dial indicator set

Micrometer set

ened in sequence to avoid warping the component. This sequence will normally be shown in the appropriate Chapter. If a specific pattern is not given, the following procedures can be used to prevent warping. Initially, the bolts or nuts should be assembled finger-tight only. Next, they should be tightened one full turn each, ina

criss-cross or diagonal pattern. After each one has been tightened one full turn, return to the first one and tighten them all one-half turn, following the same pattern. Finally, tighten each of them one-quarter turn at a time until each fastener has been tightened to the proper torque. To loosen and remove the fasteners, the procedure would be reversed.

Component disassembly Component disassembly should be done with care and purpose to help ensure that the parts go back together properly. Always keep track of the sequence in which parts are removed. Make note of special characteristics or marks on parts that can be installed more than one way, such as a grooved thrust washer on a shaft. It is a good idea to lay the disassembled parts out on a clean surface in the order that they were removed. It may also be helpful to make sketches or take instant photos of components before removal. When removing fasteners from a component, keep track of their locations. Sometimes threading a bolt back in a part, or putting the washers and nut back on a stud, can prevent mix-ups later. If nuts and bolts cannot be returned to their original locations, they should be kept in a compartmented box or a series of small boxes. A cupcake or muffin tin is ideal for this purpose, since each cavity can hold the bolts and nuts from a particular area (i.e. oil pan bolts, valve cover

bolts, engine mount bolts, etc.). A pan of this type is especially helpful when working on assemblies with very small parts, such as the carburetor, alternator, valve train or interior

dash and trim pieces. The cavities can be marked with paint or tape to identify the contents. Whenever

wiring looms,

harnesses

or

connectors are separated, it is a good idea to

identify the two halves with numbered pieces of masking tape so they can be easily reconnected.

Gasket sealing surfaces Throughout any vehicle, gaskets are used to seal the mating surfaces between two parts and keep lubricants, fluids, vacuum or pressure contained in an assembly. Many times these gaskets are coated with a liquid or paste-type gasket sealing compound before assembly. Age, heat and pressure can sometimes cause the two parts to stick together so tightly that they are very difficult to separate. Often, the assembly can be loosened by striking it with a soft-face hammer near the mating surfaces. A regular hammer can be used if a block of wood is placed between the hammer and the part. Do not hammer on cast parts or parts that could be easily damaged. With any particularly stubborn part, always recheck to make sure that every fastener has been removed. Avoid using a screwdriver or bar to pry apart an assembly, as they can easily mar the gasket sealing surfaces of the parts, which must remain smooth. If prying is absolutely necessary, use an old broom handle, but keep in mind that extra clean up will be necessary if the wood splinters. After the parts are separated, the old gasket must be carefully scraped off and the gasket surfaces cleaned. Stubborn gasket material can be soaked with rust penetrant or treated with a special chemical to soften it so it can be easily scraped off. A scraper can be fashioned from a piece of copper tubing by flattening and sharpening one end. Copper is recommended because it is usually softer than the surfaces to be scraped, which reduces the chance of gouging the part. Some gaskets can be removed with a wire brush, but regardless of the method used, the mating surfaces must be left clean and smooth. If for some reason the gasket surface is gouged, then a gasket sealer thick enough to fill scratches will have to be used during reassembly of the components. For most applications, a non-drying (or semi-dry-

ing) gasket sealer should be used.

Hose removal tips Warning: /f the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, do not disconnect any of the A/C hoses without first having the system depressurized by a dealer service department or a service station. Hose removal precautions closely parallel gasket removal precautions. Avoid scratching or gouging the surface that the hose mates against or the connection may leak. This is especially true for radiator hoses. Because of various chemical reactions, the rubber in hoses can bond itself to the metal spigot that the hose fits over. To remove a hose,

first

loosen

the

hose

clamps

that

secure it to the spigot. Then, with slip-joint

pliers, grab the hose at the clamp and rotate it around the spigot. Work it back and forth until it is completely free, then pull it off. Silicone or other lubricants will ease removal if they can be applied between the hose and the outside of the spigot. Apply the same lubricant to the inside of the hose and the outside of the spigot to simplify installation. As a last resort (and if the hose is to be replaced with a new one anyway), the rubber can be slit with a knife and the hose peeled

from the spigot. If this must be done, be careful that the metal connection is not damaged. If a hose clamp is broken or damaged, do not reuse it. Wire-type clamps usually weaken with age, so it is a good idea to replace them with screw-type clamps whenever a hose is removed.

Tools A selection of good tools is a basic requirement for anyone who plans to maintain and repair his or her own vehicle. For the owner who has few tools, the initial investment might seem high, but when compared to the spiraling costs of professional auto maintenance and repair, it is a wise one. To help the owner decide which tools are needed to perform the tasks detailed in this manual, the following tool lists are offered: Maintenance and minor repair, Repair/overhaul and Special. The newcomer to practical mechanics

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

0-9

Timing light

Compression gauge with spark plug hole adapter

Ridge reamer

General purpose puller

Valve spring compressor

Valve spring compressor

Piston ring groove cleaning tool

Ring removal/installation tool

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Cylinder hone

Brake hold-down spring tool

Brake cylinder hone

Clutch plate alignment tool

Tap and die set

should start off with the maintenance and minor repair tool kit, which is adequate for the simpler jobs performed on a vehicle. Then, as confidence and experience grow, the owner can tackle more difficult tasks, buying additional tools as they are needed. Eventually the basic kit will be expanded into the repair and overhaul tool set. Over a period of time, the experienced do-it-yourselfer will assemble a tool set complete enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the special category when it is felt that the expense is justified by the frequency of use.

Phillips screwdriver (No. 2 x 6 inch) Combination pliers - 6 inch Hacksaw and assortment of blades Tire pressure gauge Grease gun Oil can Fine emery cloth Wire brush Battery post and cable cleaning tool Oil filter wrench Funnel (medium size) Safety goggles Jackstands (2) Drain pan Note: /f basic tune-ups are going to be part of routine maintenance, it will be necessary to purchase a good quality stroboscopic timing light and combination tachometer/dwell meter. Although they are included in the list of special tools, it is mentioned here because they are absolutely necessary for tuning most vehicles properly.

it has the capacity of accepting a very wide range of large sockets. Ideally, however, the mechanic should have a 3/8-inch drive set and a 1/2-inch drive set.

Ring compressor t

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit The tools in this list should be considered the minimum required for performance of routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair work. We recommend the purchase of combination wrenches (box-end and openend combined in one wrench). While more expensive than open end wrenches, they offer the advantages of both types of wrench.

Combination wrench set (1/4-inch to 1 inch or 6 mm to 19 mm) Adjustable wrench, 8 inch Spark plug wrench with rubber insert Spark plug gap adjusting tool Feeler gauge set Brake bleeder wrench Standard screwdriver (5/16-inch x 6 inch)

Repair and overhaul tool set These tools are essential for anyone who plans to perform major repairs and are in addition to those in the maintenance and minor repair tool kit. Included is a comprehensive set of sockets which, though expensive, are invaluable because of their versatility, especially when various extensions and drives are available. We recommend the 1/2inch drive over the 3/8-inch drive. Although the larger drive is bulky and more expensive,

Socket set(s) Reversible ratchet Extension - 10 inch Universal joint Torque wrench (same size drive as sockets) Ball peen hammer - 8 ounce Soft-face hammer (plastic/rubber)

Standard screwdriver (1/4-inch x 6 inch) Standard screwdriver (stubby 5/16-inch) Phillips screwdriver (No. 3 x 8 inch) Phillips screwdriver (stubby - No. 2) Pliers - vise grip Pliers - lineman’s Pliers - needle nose Pliers - snap-ring (internal and external) Cold chisel - 1/2-inch

Scribe Scraper (made from flattened copper tubing) Centerpunch Pin punches (1/16, 1/8, 3/16-inch) Steel rule/straightedge - 12 inch Allen wrench set (1/8 to 3/8-inch or 4 mm to 10 mm) A selection of files Wire brush (large) Jackstands (second set) Jack (scissor or hydraulic type)

0-11

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities et

Note: Another tool which is often useful is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of 3/8-inch and a set of good quality drill bits.

Special tools The tools in this list include those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturer’s instructions. Unless these tools will be used frequently, it is not very economical to purchase many of them. A consideration would be to split the cost and use between yourself and a friend or friends. In addition, most of these tools can be obtained from a tool rental shop on a tem-

porary basis. This list primarily contains only those tools and instruments widely available to the public, and not those special tools produced

by the vehicle manufacturer for distribution to dealer service departments. Occasionally, references to the manufacturer’s special tools are included in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the special tool is offered. However, sometimes there is no alternative to their use. Where this is the case, and the tool cannot be purchased or borrowed, the work should be turned over to the dealer service department or an automotive repair shop. Valve spring compressor Piston ring groove cleaning tool Piston ring compressor Piston ring installation tool Cylinder compression gauge Cylinder ridge reamer Cylinder surfacing hone Cylinder bore gauge Micrometers and/or dial calipers Hydraulic lifter removal tool Balljoint separator Universal-type puller Impact screwdriver Dial indicator set Stroboscopic timing light (inductive pick-up) Hand operated vacuum/pressure pump

Tachometer/dwell meter Universal electrical multimeter Cable hoist Brake spring removal and installation tools Floor jack

Buying tools For the do-it-yourselfer who is just start-

ing to get involved in vehicle maintenance and repair, there are a number of options available when purchasing tools. If maintenance and minor repair is the extent of the work to be done, the purchase of individual tools is satisfactory. If, on the other hand,

extensive work is planned, it would be a good idea to purchase a modest tool set from one of the large retail chain stores. A set can usu-

ally be bought at a substantial savings over the individual tool prices, and they often come with a tool box. As additional tools are

needed, add-on sets, individual tools and a larger tool box can be purchased to expand the tool selection. Building a tool set gradually allows the cost of the tools to be spread over a longer period of time and gives the mechanic the freedom to choose only those tools that will actually be used. Tool stores will often be the only source of some of the special tools that are needed, but regardless of where tools are bought, try to avoid cheap ones, especially when buying screwdrivers and sockets, because they won't last very long. The expense involved in replacing cheap tools will eventually be greater than the initial cost of quality tools.

Care and maintenance of tools Good tools are expensive, so it makes sense to treat them with respect. Keep them clean and in usable condition and store them properly when not in use. Always wipe off any dirt, grease or metal chips before putting them away. Never leave tools lying around in the work area. Upon completion of a job, always check closely under the hood for tools that may have been left there so they won’t get lost during a test drive. Some tools, such as screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches and sockets, can be hung ona

panel mounted

on the garage or workshop

wall, while others should be kept in a tool box

nut. Once the plug is fully seated, remove the jam nut and bolt. 3) The third method uses a patented thread repair kit like Heli-Coil or Slimsert. These easy-to-use kits are designed to repair damaged threads in straightthrough holes and blind holes. Both are available as kits which can handle a variety of sizes and thread patterns. Drill the hole, then tap it with the special included tap. Install the Heli-Coil and the hole is back to its original diameter and thread pitch. Regardless of which method you use, be sure to proceed calmly and carefully. A little impatience or carelessness during one of these relatively simple procedures can ruin your whole day’s work and cost you a bundle if you wreck an expensive part.

Working facilities Not to be overlooked when discussing tools is the workshop. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some sort of suitable work area is essential. It is understood, and appreciated, that many home mechanics do not have a good workshop or garage available, and end up removing an engine or doing major repairs outside.

It is recommended,

however,

that

meters, etc. must be carefully stored where

the overhaul or repair be completed under the cover of a roof.

they cannot be impact from other When tools stored properly,

fortable working height is an absolute necessity. The workbench should be equipped with a vise that has a jaw opening of at least four

or tray.

time.

Measuring

Even

instruments,

gauges,

damaged by weather or tools. are used with care and they will last a very long

with the best

of care,

though,

tools will wear out if used frequently. When a tool is damaged or worn out, replace it. Subsequent jobs will be safer and more enjoyable if you do.

How to repair damaged threads Sometimes, the internal threads of a nut or bolt hole can become stripped, usually from overtightening. Stripping threads is an all-too-common occurrence, especially when working with aluminum parts, because alu-

minum is so soft that it easily strips out. Usually, external or internal threads are only partially stripped. After they’ve been cleaned up with a tap or die, they’ll still work. Sometimes, however, threads are badly damaged. When this happens, you’ve got three choices: 1) Drill and tap the hole to the next suitable oversize and install a larger diameter bolt, screw or stud. 2) Drill and tap the hole to accept a threaded plug, then drill and tap the plug to the original screw size. You can also buy a plug already threaded to the original size. Then you simply drill a hole to the specified size, then run the threaded plug into the hole with a bolt and jam

A clean, flat workbench or table of com-

inches. As mentioned previously, some clean, dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as the lubricants, fluids, cleaning sol-

vents, etc. which soon become necessary. Sometimes waste oil and fluids, drained

from the engine or mal maintenance posal problem. To ground or into a

cooling system during noror repairs, present a disavoid pouring them on the sewage system, pour the

used fluids into large containers, seal them

with caps and take them to an authorized disposal site or recycling center. Plastic jugs, such as old antifreeze containers, are ideal

for this purpose. Always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean rags available. Old towels are excellent for mopping up spills. Many mechanics use rolls of paper towels for most work because they are readily available and disposable. To help keep the area under the vehicle clean, a large cardboard

box can be

cut open and flattened to protect the garage or shop floor. Whenever working over a painted surface, such as when

leaning over a fender to

service something under the hood, always cover it with an old blanket or bedspread to protect the finish. Vinyl covered pads, made especially for this purpose, are available at auto parts stores.

0-12

Booster battery (jump) starting Observe these precautions when using a booster battery to start

Dead Battery

Booster battery

a vehicle:

a) Before connecting the booster battery, make sure the ignition switch is in the Off position. b) Turn off the lights, heater and other electrical loads. c) Your eyes should be shielded. Safety goggles are a good idea. d) Make sure the booster battery is the same voltage as the dead one in the vehicle.

e) The two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other! f) Make sure the transaxle is in Neutral (manual) or Park (automatic). g) If the booster battery is not a maintenance-free type, remove the vent caps and lay a cloth over the vent holes. Connect the red jumper cable to the positive (+) terminals of each battery (see illustration). Connect one end of the black jumper cable to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery. The other end of this cable should be connected to a good ground on the vehicle to be started, such as a bolt or bracket on the body. Start the engine using the booster battery, then, with the engine running at idle speed, disconnect the jumper cables in the reverse order of connection.

O00000

+

4

Make the booster battery cable connections in the numerical order shown (note that the negative cable of the booster battery is NOT attached to the negative terminal of the dead battery)

Jacking and towing Jacking Warning: The jack supplied with the vehicle should only be used for changing a tire or placing jackstands under the frame. Never work under the vehicle or start the engine while this jack is being used as the only means of support. The vehicle should be on level ground. Place the shift lever in Park, if you have an

automatic, or Reverse if you have a manual transaxle. Block the wheel diagonally opposite the wheel being changed. Set the parking

brake. Remove the spare tire and jack from stowage. Remove the wheel cover and trim ring (if so equipped) with the tapered end of the lug nut wrench by inserting and twisting the handle and then prying against the back of the wheel cover. On aluminum wheels, tap

the back side of the wheel hub cover after removing the wheel (do not attempt to pull off the wheel hub cover by hand). Loosen, but do not remove, the lug nuts (one-half turn is sufficient). Place the scissors-type jack under the side of the vehicle and adjust the jack height until it fits between the notches in the vertical rocker panel flange nearest the wheel to be changed. There is a front and rear jacking point on each side of the vehicle (see illustration). Turn the jack handle clockwise until the tire clears the ground. Remove the lug nuts and pull the wheel off. Replace it with the

spare. Replace the lug nuts with the beveled edges facing in. Tighten them snugly. Don't attempt to tighten them completely until the vehicle is lowered or it could slip off the jack.

Turn the jack handle counterclockwise to lower the vehicle. Remove the jack and tighten the lug nuts in a criss-cross pattern. Install the cover (and trim ring, if used) and be sure it's snapped into place all the way around. Stow the tire, jack and wrench. Unblock

the wheels.

Towing All-Trac/4WD models All-Trac models can be towed in one of two ways - never use any other method! One way is to place the rear wheels on a dolly and raise the front wheels off the ground with a towing sling (the method most tow trucks would use). They can also be towed with all four wheels on the ground if the parking brake is released, the transmission is in Neutral and the ignition key is in the ACC position. If the vehicle has a center differential lock button, the center differential must be unlocked (the indicator light must be off with the ignition key on). Note: Don't tow the vehicle with the key removed or in the LOCK position. The steering lock mechanism isn't strong enough to hold the front wheels

with all four wheels on the ground, provided that speeds don't exceed 30 mph and the distance is not over 50 miles. Before towing,

check the transmission fluid level (see Chapter 1). If the level is below the HOT line on the dipstick, add fluid or use a towing dolly. Release the parking brake, put the transaxle in Neutral and place the ignition key in the ACC position. Caution: Never tow a vehicle with an automatic transaxle from the rear with the front wheels on the ground. Equipment specifically designed for towing should be used. It should be attached to the main structural members of the vehicle, not the bumpers or brackets. Safety is a major consideration when towing and all applicable state and local laws must be obeyed. A safety chain system must be used at all times. Remember that power steering and power brakes will not work with the engine off.

straight while towing.

FWD models As a general rule, the vehicle should be towed with the front (drive) wheels off the ground. If they can't be raised, place them on a dolly. The ignition key must be in the ACC position, since the steering lock mechanism isn't strong enough to hold the front wheels straight while towing. Vehicles equipped with an automatic transaxle can be towed from the front only

The jack fits over the rocker panel flange, between the two notches (there are two jacking points on each side of the vehicle)

0-13

Automotive chemicals and lubricants A number of automotive chemicals and lubricants are available for use during vehicle maintenance and repair. They include a wide variety of products ranging from cleaning solvents and degreasers to lubricants and protective sprays for rubber, plastic and vinyl.

Cleaners Carburetor cleaner and choke cleaner is a strong solvent for gum, varnish and carbon. Most carburetor cleaners leave a drytype lubricant film which will not harden or gum up. Because of this film it is not recommended for use on electrical components. Brake system cleaner is used

to

remove grease and brake fluid from the brake system, where clean surfaces are absolutely necessary. It leaves no residue and often eliminates brake squeal caused by contaminants. Electrical cleaner removes oxidation, corrosion and carbon deposits from electrical contacts, restoring full current flow. It can also be used to clean spark plugs, carburetor jets, voltage regulators and other parts where an oil-free surface is desired. Demoisturants remove water and moisture from electrical components such as alternators, voltage regulators, electrical connectors and fuse blocks. They are non-conductive, non-corrosive and non-flammable.

Degreasers are heavy-duty solvents used to remove grease from the outside of the engine and from chassis components. They can be sprayed or brushed on and, depending on the type, are rinsed off either with water or soivent.

Lubricants Motor oil is the lubricant formulated for use in engines. It normally contains a wide variety of additives to prevent corrosion and

reduce foaming and wear. Motor oil comes in various weights (viscosity ratings) from 0 to 50. The recommended weight of the oil depends on the season, temperature and the demands on the engine. Light oil is used in cold climates and under light load conditions. Heavy oil is used in hot climates and where high loads are encountered. Multi-viscosity oils are designed to have characteristics of both light and heavy oils and are available in a number of weights from 5W-20 to 20W-50. Gear oil is designed to be used in differentials, manual transmissions and other areas where high-temperature lubrication is required. Chassis and wheel bearing grease is a heavy grease used where increased loads and friction are encountered, such as for wheel bearings, balljoints, tie-rod ends and universal joints. High-temperature wheel bearing grease is designed to withstand the extreme temperatures encountered by wheel bearings

in disc brake equipped vehicles. It usually contains molybdenum disulfide (moly), which is a dry-type lubricant.

White grease

is a heavy grease for

metal-to-metal applications where water is a problem. White grease stays soft under both low and high temperatures (usually from -100 to +190-degrees F), and will not wash off or dilute in the presence of water. Assembly lube is a special extreme pressure lubricant, usually containing moly, used to lubricate high-load parts (such as main and rod bearings and cam lobes) for initial start-up of a new engine. The assembly lube lubricates the parts without being squeezed out or washed away until the engine oiling system begins to function. Silicone lubricants are used to protect rubber, plastic, vinyl and nylon parts. Graphite lubricants are used where oils cannot be used due to contamination problems, such as in locks. The dry graphite will lubricate metal parts while remaining uncontaminated

by dirt, water,

oil or acids.

It is

electrically conductive and will not foul electrical contacts in locks such as the ignition switch. Moly penetrants loosen and lubricate frozen, rusted and corroded

fasteners and

prevent future rusting or freezing. Heat-sink grease is a special electrically non-conductive grease that is used for mounting electronic ignition modules where it is essential that heat is transferred away from the module.

Sealants RTV sealant is one of the most widely used gasket compounds. Made from silicone, RTV is air curing, it seals, bonds, waterproofs, fills surface irregularities,

remains flexible, doesn’t shrink, is relatively easy to remove, and is used as a supplementary sealer with almost all low and medium temperature gaskets. Anaerobic sealant is much like RTV in that it can be used either to seal gaskets or to form gaskets by itself. It remains flexible, is solvent resistant and fills surface imperfections. The difference between an anaerobic sealant and an RTV-type sealant is in the curing. RTV cures when exposed to air, while an anaerobic sealant cures only in the absence of air. This means that an anaerobic sealant cures only after the assembly of parts, sealing them together. Thread and pipe sealant is used for sealing hydraulic and pneumatic fittings and vacuum lines. It is usually made from a Teflon compound, and comes in a spray, a paint-on liquid and as a wrap-around tape.

Chemicals Anti-seize compound prevents seizing, galling, cold welding, rust and corrosion in

fasteners. High-temperature ant-seize, usually made with copper and graphite lubricants, is used for exhaust system and exhaust manifold bolts. Anaerobic locking compounds are used to keep fasteners from vibrating or working loose and cure only after installation, in the absence of air. Medium strength locking compound is used for small nuts, bolts and screws that may be removed later. Highstrength locking compound is for large nuts, bolts and studs which aren’t removed on a regular basis. Oil additives range from viscosity index improvers to chemical treatments that claim to reduce internal engine friction. It should be noted that most oil manufacturers caution against using additives with their oils. Gas additives perform several functions, depending on their chemical makeup. They usually contain solvents that help dissolve gum and varnish that build up on carburetor, fuel injection and intake parts. They also serve to break down carbon deposits that form on the inside surfaces of the combustion chambers. Some additives contain upper cylinder lubricants for valves and piston rings, and others contain chemicals to remove condensation from the gas tank.

Miscellaneous Brake fluid is specially formulated hydraulic fluid that can withstand the heat and pressure encountered in brake systems. Care must be taken so this fluid does not come in contact with painted surfaces or plastics. An opened container should always be resealed to prevent contamination by water or dirt. Weatherstrip adhesive is used to bond weatherstripping around doors, windows and

trunk lids. It is sometimes used to attach trim pieces. Undercoating is a petroleum-based, tar-like substance that is designed to protect metal surfaces on the underside of the vehicle from corrosion. It also acts as a sounddeadening agent by insulating the bottom of the vehicle. Waxes and polishes are used to help protect painted and plated surfaces from the weather. Different types of paint may require the use of different types of wax and polish. Some polishes utilize a chemical or abrasive cleaner to help remove the top layer of oxidized (dull) paint on older vehicles. In recent years many non-wax polishes that contain a wide variety of chemicals such as polymers and silicones have been introduced. These non-wax polishes are usually easier to apply and last longer than conventional waxes and polishes.

0-14

Conversion

factors

Length (distance) Inches (in)

X

25.4

=Millimetres

X

0.0394

Feet (ft)

X

0.305

= Metres (m)

(mm)

X

3.281

= Inches (in)

=Feet (ft)

Miles

X

1.609

=Kilometres (km)

X

0.621

=Miles

X 16.387 X. 0.568 TE X 1.201 X 0.946 X 4.546 X 1.201 X 3.785

= Cubic centimetres (cc; cm’) = Litres (I) SE EH) =US quarts (US qt) = Litres (I) = Litres (I) =US gallons (US gal) =Litres (I)

X x x X X x X X

0.061. 1.76 0.88 0.833 1.057 0.22 0.833 0.264

=Cubic inches (cu in; in”) = Imperial pints (Imp pt) = Imperial quarts (Imp qt) =Imperial quarts (Imp qt) =US quarts (US qt) = Imperial gallons (Imp gal) =Imperial gallons (Imp gal) =US gallons (US gal)

X X

28.35 0.454

=Grams

(g) = Kilograms (kg)

X X

0.035

2.205

=Ounces (oz) = Pounds (Ib)

X X X

0.278 4.448 0.1.

=Newtons (N) = Newtons (N) =Kilograms-force

Xx X Xx

3.6 0.225 9.81

= Ounces-force (ozf; 0z) = Pounds-force (Ibf; Ib) = Newtons (N)

X

0.070

= Kilograms-force per square

X

14.223

= Pounds-force

é

Volume (capacity)

Cubic inches (cu in; in*) Imperial pints (Imp pt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) US quarts (US qt) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) US gallons (US gal)

Mass (weight) Ounces (oz)

Pounds (lb)

Force Ounces-force (ozf; 0z) Pounds-force (Ibf; Ib) Newtons (N)

(kgf; kg)

Pressure Pounds-force per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?) Pounds-force

centimetre (kgf/cm?; kg/cm?)

per square inch

X

0.068

=Atmospheres

X

0.069

= Bars

(atm)

X

14.696

x

14.5

= Pounds-force per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?) Pounds-force

(psi; Ibf/in?; |b/in?)

per square inch.

= Pounds-force

(psi; Ibf/in?: Ib/in?) Pounds-force

per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in?; |b/in?) per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)

per square inch

X

6.895

=Kilopascals (kPa)

X

0.145

=Pounds-force

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)

per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)

Kilopascals (kPa)

X

0.01

= Kilograms-force per square

Xx

98.1

inches

X

1.152

X

0.868

inches

X

0.113

= Kilograms-force centimetre (kgf cm; kg cm) =Newton metres (Nm)

Xx

8.85

inches

X

0.083

= Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft)

x

12

feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft)

X

0.138

= Kilograms-force metres

X

7.233

(Ibf in; Ib in) = Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft)

Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft: Ib ft) Néwton metres (Nm)

x X

1.356 0.102

=Newton metres (Nm) =Kilograms-force metres (kgf m; kg m)

xX X

0.738 9.804

=Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft) =Newton metres (Nm)

X X

3.377 25.4

= Kilopascals (kPa) =Millimeters mercury (mm Hg)

X X

0.2961 0.0394

= Inches mercury = Inches mercury

X

745.7

=Watts (W)

X

0.0013

=Horsepower (hp)

X

1.609

= Kilometres per hour (km/hr; kph)

X

0.621

= Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

X X

0.354 0.425

= Kilometres per litre (km/\) = Kilometres per litre (km/I)

X X

2.825 2.352

=Miles per gallon, Imperial (mpg) =Miles per gallon, US (mpg)

centimetre (kgf/cm; kg/cm’)

= Kilopascals (kPa)

Torque (moment of force) Pounds-force (Ibf in; Ib in) Pounds-force (Ibf in; Ib in) Pounds-force (Ibf in; Ib in) Pounds-force

= Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; Ib in) = Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; Ib in) = Pounds-force inches

(kgf m; kg m)

Vacuum Inches mercury (in. Hg) Inches mercury (in. Hg)

Power Horsepower (hp)

Velocity (speed) Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

Fuel consumption* Miles per gallon, Imperial (mpg) Miles per gallon, US (mpg)

Temperature Degrees Fahrenheit

=

(°C x 1.8) + 32

Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; °C)

*/t is common practice to convert from miles per gallon (mpg) to litres/100 kilometres (i/10Okm),

where mpg (Imperial) x 1/100 km = 282 and mpg (US) x 1/100 km = 235

= (°F - 32) x 0.56

0-15

Safety first! Regardless of how enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job at hand, take the time to ensure that your safety is not jeopardized. A moment’s lack of attention can result in an accident, as can failure to observe certain simple safety precautions. The possibility of an accident will always exist, and the following points should not be considered a comprehensive list of all dangers. Rather, they are intended to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safety conscious approach to all work you carry out on your vehicle.

Essential DOs and DON’Ts DON’T rely on a jack when working under the vehicle. Always use approved jackstands to support the weight of the vehicle and place them under the recommended lift or support points. DON’T attempt to loosen extremely tight fas-

teners (i.e. wheel lug nuts) while the vehicle is on a jack - it may fall. DON’T start the engine without first making sure that the transmission is in Neutral (or Park where applicable) and the parking brake is set. DON’T remove the radiator cap from a hot cooling system - let it cool or cover it with a

cloth and release the pressure gradually. DON’T attempt to drain the engine oil until you are sure it has cooled to the point that it will not burn you.

DON’T touch any part of the engine or exhaust system until it has cooled sufficiently to avoid burns. DON’T siphon toxic liquids such as gasoline, antifreeze and brake fluid by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin. DON’T inhale brake lining dust - it is potentially hazardous (see Asbestos below). DON’T allow spilled oil or grease to remain on the floor - wipe it up before someone slips on it.

DON’T use loose fitting wrenches or other tools which may slip and cause injury. DON’T push on wrenches when loosening or tightening nuts or bolts. Always try to pull the wrench toward you. If the situation calls for pushing the wrench away, push with an open hand to avoid scraped knuckles if the wrench should slip.

DON’T attempt to lift a heavy component alone - get someone to help you. DON’T rush or take unsafe shortcuts to finish a job. DON’T allow children or animals in or around the vehicle while you are working on it. DO wear eye protection when using power tools such as a drill, sander, bench grinder,

etc. and when working under a vehicle. DO keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving parts. DO make sure that any hoist used has a safe working load rating adequate for the job.

carefully. Never use materials from unmarked containers. Never run the engine in an enclosed space, such as a garage. Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide, which is extremely

DO get someone to check on you periodically

poisonous. If you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air, or at least have

when working alone on a vehicle. DO carry out work in a logical sequence and make sure that everything is correctly assembled and tightened.

DO keep chemicals and fluids tightly capped and out of the reach of children and pets.

DO remember that your vehicle’s safety affects that of yourself and others. If in doubt on any point, get professional advice.

Asbestos Certain friction, insulating, sealing, and

other products - such as brake linings, brake bands, clutch linings, torque converters, gaskets, etc. - may contain asbestos.

Extreme

care must be taken to avoid inhalation of dust from such products, since it is hazardous to health. If in doubt, assume that they do contain asbestos.

Fire Remember at all times that gasoline is highly flammable. Never smoke or have any kind of open flame around when working on a

vehicle. But the risk does not end there. A spark caused by an electrical short circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, or even by static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite gasoline vapors, which in a confined space are highly explosive. Do not, under any circumstances, use gasoline for cleaning parts. Use an approved safety solvent.

Always disconnect the battery ground (-) cable at the battery before working on any part of the fuel system or electrical system. Never risk spilling fuel on a hot engine or exhaust component. It is strongly recom-

mended that a fire extinguisher suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires be kept handy in the garage or workshop at all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with water.

Fumes Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconsciousness and even death if inhaled to any extent. Gasoline vapor falls into this category, as do the vapors from some cleaning solvents. Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids. should be done in a well ventilated area. When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions on the container

the rear of the vehicle outside the work area. If you are fortunate enough to have the use of an inspection pit, never drain or pour gasoline and never run the engine while the vehicle is over the pit. The fumes, being heavier than air, will concentrate in the pit with possibly lethal results.

The battery Never create a spark or allow a bare light bulb near a battery. They normally give off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive. Always disconnect the battery ground (-) cable at the battery before working on the fuel or electrical systems. If possible, loosen the filler caps or cover when charging the battery from an external source (this does not apply to sealed or maintenance-free batteries). Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery may burst. Take care when adding water to a non maintenance-free battery and when carrying a battery. The electrolyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be allowed to contact clothing or skin. Always wear eye protection when cleaning the battery to prevent the caustic deposits from entering your eyes.

Household current When using an electric inspection light, etc., which household current, always make tool is correctly connected to

power tool, operates on sure that the its plug and

that,

is

where

necessary,

it

properly

grounded. Do not use such items in damp conditions and, again, do not create a spark or apply excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel vapor.

Secondary ignition system voltage A severe electric shock can result from touching certain parts of the ignition system (such as the spark plug wires) when the engine is running or being cranked, particularly if components are damp or the insulation is defective. In the case of an electronic ignition system, the secondary system voltage is much higher and could prove fatal.

0-16

Troubleshooting Contents Symptom

Section

Symptom

Section

Engine Engine backfires Engine diesels (continues to run) after Switching Off....cccsssssssssseee«

15 18

Beaksiltilonicamthe esac 0 ak cees pears cst deetetaee nent ate ateatneey eter locked imSe@CondhG alive cisnts crite tes eran sche receesse cuatecete eriseeenenen ee ibe PFONOUMCEG WHEMITUNMING seec-c0-2eese-snecesescccrenasetenneanen

Engine hard to start When COId ..esssssssssssssssssssssssssssesveseseseseesseeeeeeee

3

oisy in all gears ............ cette sossseceeneeseeeenunaeecnnnsecennsactonsctonnsss

i

Engine narditorstart wihenihOtieccc..tvs.-crtesnasedecneccactesactcecteatuvesarecstss Engine lacks power :

“ 14

Noisysin meterall wilt nie EN UG ee ea ae Noisyiinronelpantichlan Gane: crs:srese eave: esr ctterenerdtaasstntsentameerecite

47

eis

ie

Engine

lopes

while

Engine

misses

at

idling

idle

or

speed

idles

Ws

Sony

erratically

RP OSI

ATUL

AS

Wee

SUNN

Ai

aris

Oe

Se

| Se

Sse

ee

A

8

ee

8

Be

9

|

out

ration

of

gear

OEE

POP eUUREUUUUCOEUCC

RRR

UCU CUEC

USCC

E ECU

REET

REET

HEHEHE

ee

HEH HEHEHE

EERE

HEE

H TREE

REE

x:

50 yi ofa

EEE

Engine misses throughout driving Speed range............cceeeeeeeeeeeeees

10

Automatic transaxle

eae Seite

e

Engine will start in gears other than Park or Neutral..........::ccce

56

FIUIG IGAKAGG!..

52

ces eee bios A

g

P

asc

ORME vite saan ae a laa ee a

EMGIMGSStall Sytwecevaget rested cssccpsocessnagencs dives antes has ofa nena haskend Suaseuretenecs ; 4 f Engine starts but stops immediately................::scccecsesttecceseseneneres BAe ea chimniesan acceleration Encine surges while holding accelerator steady Mag 29a Soy Engine will not rotate when attempting to start ...ccccscssssssseseeeeee Oil puddle under engine Pinging or knocking engine sounds during acceleration or uphill...

13 6 14 42 5 7 16

Starter motor noisy or excessively rough in engagement..............

5

ssscvcr Mel merits woes svamimme ds tauetrnecteneamenrattrces ceatesweee

; p General shift mechanism ProDleMS ..c2........:csssecccseesecccssssccsersvesnan : Transaxle fluid brown or has burned Smell ..........ccscceeeeesseeeeeeseeeeees Transaxle slips, shifts roughly, is noisy or has no drive in forward OF FEVEFSE GOALS «sss eessseeess eset tesnseeeneesteeeeneestscessecsess Transaxle will not downshift with accelerator pedal pressed TONE HOOK in eee ce aaawete ns «= Slotted Spring &

Restrict Pin

Pin =

No.2 Oil Receiver

No.2 Selecting Bellcrank

No.1

Pipe

Oil Receiver

Protector

Transmission

Case Cover

Plug Transmission

Case

6.4d Typical transaxle case and shift mechanism components (All-Trac models)

Chapter 7 Part A Manual transaxle

7TA-7

Transfer Assembly

Clutch Release Fork

Assembly with Bearing

S3

4

@

:

Oil Seal Keys

Speedometer Driven Gear

—

ae Speedometer Cable Adopter

O-Ring Speedometer Shaft Sleeve Clip

_-~ Jransaxle Case Receiver ¢!

Oil Cooler Pipe

Sa og Sea Ly

Oil Pipe

O-Ring

es

;

|

l ] | f

2

:

| Front Oil Seal

|

iN

€

le

C

ata

Front Bearing

é

Outer Race

—(@)

Input Shaft Front

t

(

Pe

|

—

.

Pee

Ts

,

MS ~}.

| i)

Bearing

Diferential Side Gear Intermediate Shaft

: Oil Pump Drive Gear

~~

Differential Case Assembly

—_— BS

6.4e Typical transaxle and transfer case and related components (All-Trac models)

7TA-8

Chapter 7 Part A

Manual transaxle

Input Shaft Assembly

Thrust Washer

Reverse Idler Gear Shaft

Output Shaft Assembly Reverse Idler Gear

Retaining Bolt

Torx Screw

Rear Bearing Retainer Snap Ring Spacer Needle Roller Bearing 5th Gear Synchronizer Ring We Synchronizer Key Spring No.3 Hub Sleeve No.3 Clutch Hub 5th Driven Gear

Snap Ring

Lock Nut

6.4f Typical transaxle input and output shafts and related components (All-Trac models)

7B-1

Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transaxle Contents Section Automatic transaxle/differential fluid and filter change ... See Chapter 1 Automatic transaxle differential lubricant level check ..... See Chapter 1 Automatic transaxle fluid level CheCk ..........cc:ccsecsseeseeeeee See Chapter 1 Automatic transaxle - removal and installation .......ccc.ccccccceeceseeees 6 DIAGNOSIS. Genohalmeee mart er te oe Oe en 2 CeneralliimonmaiOnwerere eet et teste tasisslsisseten aea 1

Section Neutral start switch - replacement and adjustment............c:c0ce 5 Oilisealireplacement’s. Sicc.c.c.ns aoe ee See Chapter 7A Shittlinkage aqjlistmentiacs-nsteene tecee eee eee ee eee 3 Throttle valve (TV) cable - check and adjustment...........cccccceceereee 4 Transaxle mount - check and replacement ...........0..68- See Chapter 7A

Specifications

Torque specifications

Ft-Ibs

Transaxle-to-engine bolts OMIM IMs Mess, seeteate eget es casce sewers cates st oeceac ec ses cnccs «vse cchecscecevseaaedocdhsebenrecse sUZaGIVEM eve ents eer anes cen Cecheastttn thaee SeeAiaih a.ctcssaniensteseacees ator tieiosasites Torque converter-to-driveplate bolts MO SSMMHLOUGMAGSO;AMG MO GOiOMeessetecessecessers- Sessnveccdeatsces caccnevrvencvesseee MOGIBAMGE OG Grer meericeass siruedecasx te ttetcas sites is sven ce) ceapdsacteonsoneseateesenetrcesss Engine mounting center member bolt A OSS uM OUG ME OS Oeervees, sett easton patticas se eeiarecossassaeccncbarestueces cerascteseiees BLS 7 OU eran see cares reas nate Pp oS co! sec ev eases’ secceceusvattaa ixyortusctstescse Front strut/stabilizer bar bracket-to-body DOIts ............::ccccesssseeceeeseeseeees Front suspension lower crossmember-to-body DOPE OSTEO) eeteves tecetete tae .causteatsac detarcnitesisdcesesdvedecnccustavesssencSeadestsstes

1

General information

All vehicles covered in this manual come equipped with either a 5-speed manual or a 4-spéed automatic transaxle. All information on the automatic transaxle is included in this

Part of Chapter 7. Information for the manual transaxle can be found in Part A of this Chapter. Due to the complexity of the automatic transaxles covered in this manual and to the specialized equipment necessary to perform most service operations, this Chapter contains only those procedures related to general diagnosis, routine maintenance, adjustment and removal and installation. If the transaxle requires major repair work, it should be left to a dealer service department or an automotive or transmission repair shop. You can, however, remove and install the transaxle yourself and save the expense, even if the repair work is done by a transmission shop.

2

32 47

20 13 29 45 45 153

2

Diagnosis - general

Note: Automatic transaxle malfunctions may be caused by five general conditions: poor engine performance, improper adjustments, hydraulic malfunctions, mechanical malfunctions or malfunctions in the computer or its signal network. Diagnosis of these problems should always begin with a check of the easily repaired

items:

fluid level and

Check

the fluid level as described

in

Chapter 1:

condition

(Chapter 1), shift linkage adjustment and throttle linkage adjustment. Next, perform a road test to determine if the problem has been corrected or if more diagnosis is necessary. If the problem persists after the preliminary tests and corrections are completed, additional diagnosis should be done by a dealer service department or transmission repair shop. Refer to the Troubleshooting Section at the front of this manual for information on symptoms of transaxle problems.

Preliminary checks 1 Drive the vehicle to warm the transaxle to normal operating temperature.

a) If the fluid level is unusually low, add enough fluid to bring the level within the designated area of the dipstick, then check for external leaks (see below). b) If the fluid level is abnormally high, drain off the excess, then check the drained fluid for contamination by coolant. The presence of engine coolant in the automatic transmission fluid indicates that a failure has occurred in the internal radiator walls that separate the coolant from

the transmission fluid (see Chapter 3). c) If the fluid is foaming, drain it and refill the transaxle, then check for coolant in the fluid, or a high fluid level. 3 Check the engine idle speed. Note: /f the engine is malfunctioning, do not proceed with the preliminary checks until it has been repaired and runs normally. 4 Check the throttle valve cable for freedom of movement. Adjust it if necessary (Section 4). Note: The throttle cable may function properly when the engine is shut off and cold, but it may malfunction once the

7B-2

Chapter 7 PartB

engine is hot. Check it cold and at normal engine operating temperature. 5 Inspect the shift control linkage (Section 3). Make sure that itOs properly adjusted and that the linkage operates smoothly.

Fluid leak diagnosis 6 Most fluid leaks are easy to locate visually. Repair usually consists of replacing a seal or gasket. If a leak is difficult to find, the

following procedure may help. 7 Identify the fluid. Make sure itOs transmission fluid and not engine oil or brake fluid (automatic transmission fluid is a deep red color). 8 Try to pinpoint the source of the leak. Drive the vehicle several miles, then park it over a large sheet of cardboard. After a minute or two, you should be able to locate the leak by determining the source of the fluid dripping onto the cardboard. 9 Make a careful visual inspection of the suspected component and the area immediately around it. Pay particular attention to gasket mating surfaces. A mirror is often helpful for finding leaks in areas that are hard to see. 10 If the leak still cannot be found, clean the suspected area thoroughly with a degreaser or solvent, then dry it. 11 Drive the vehicle for several miles at normal operating temperature and varying speeds. After driving the vehicle, visually inspect the suspected component again.

12

Once the leak has been located, the

cause must be determined before it can be properly repaired. If a gasket is replaced but the sealing flange is bent, the new gasket will not stop the leak. The bent flange must be straightened. 13 Before attempting to repair a leak, check to make sure that the following conditions are corrected or they may cause another leak. Note: Some of the following conditions cannot be fixed without highly specialized tools and expertise. Such problems must be referred to a transmission shop or a dealer service department.

Automatic transaxle

may be plugged, the seal bore may be damaged, the seal itself may be damaged or improperly installed, the surface of the shaft protruding through the seal may be damaged or a loose bearing may be causing excessive shaft movement. 17 Make sure the dipstick tube seal is in good condition and the tube is properly seated. Periodically check the area around the speedometer gear or sensor for leakage. If transmission fluid is evident, check the Oring for damage.

Case leaks 18 If the case itself appears to be leaking, the casting is porous and will have to be repaired or replaced. 19 Make sure the oil cooler hose fittings are tight and in good condition.

Fluid comes out vent pipe or fill tube 20 If this condition occurs, overfilled, there is coolant case is porous, the dipstick vent is plugged or the drain plugged.

3.

Replacement 1 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Place the cable out of the way so it

Shift linkage - adjustment

Raise the vehicle and support it securely

on jackstands. 2 Loosen the swivel nut on the manual shift lever at the transaxle. 3 Push the lever toward the right side of the vehicle and then return it two notches to the Neutral position.

4 Move the shift lever inside the vehicle to the Neutral position. 5 While holding the lever with a slight pressure toward the Reverse position, tighten the swivel nut securely (see illustration). 6 Check the operation of the transaxle in each shift lever position (try to start the engine in each gear - the starter should operate in the Park and Neutral positions only).

ket material has been used to form a sea! between the pan and the transaxle housing, it may be the wrong sealant.

Seal leaks 16 If a transaxle seal is leaking, the fluid level or pressure may be too high, the vent

4

Neutral start switch replacement and adjustment

is incorrect, the back holes are

Gasket leaks 14 Check the pan periodically. Make sure the bolts are tight, no bolts are missing, the gasket is in good condition and the pan is flat (dents in the pan may indicate damage to the valve body inside). 15 If the pan gasket is leaking, the fluid level or the fluid pressure may be too high, the vent may be plugged, the pan bolts may be too tight, the pan sealing flange may be warped, the sealing surface of the transaxle housing may be damaged, the gasket may be damaged or the transaxle casting may be cracked or porous. If sealant instead of gas-

5

the transaxle is in the fluid, the

Refer to illustration 3.5

1

3.5 While pushing the lever lightly toward Reverse, tighten the swivel nut securely

Throttie valve (TV) cable - check and adjustment

cannot accidentally come in contact with the negative terminal of the battery, as this would once again allow power into the electrical system of the vehicle. 2 Shift the transaxle into Neutral. 3 Remove the nut and lift off the shift lever. 4 Unplug the electrical connector. 5 Remove the attaching bolts and lift the switch off the shift shaft. 6 To install, line up the flats on the shift shaft with the flats in the switch and push the switch onto the shaft. 7 Install the bolts, but leave them loose and follow the adjustment procedure below. The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal.

Adjustment 1983 through 1985 Refer to illustration 5.9

8 Make unplugged.

sure

the

switch

Rubber Boot

connector

is

Outer Cable

Refer to illustration 4.3 1 Remove the air cleaner duct assembly. 2 Have an assistant hold the throttle pedal down while you watch the TV link in the engine compartment to make sure it opens fully. 3

If the link does not open

all the way,

have the assistant continue to hold the pedal down, loosen the adjusting nuts and adjust the cable until the mark or stopper is the specified distance from the boot end (see illustration). 4 Tighten the adjusting nuts securely, recheck the clearance and make sure the link opens all the way when the throttle is depressed.

Cable Stopper

(or Painted Mark)

Adjusting Nuts

4.3 Loosen the adjusting nuts and adjust the cable housing position until the stopper or painted mark is the specified

distance from the boot end SN

Chapter 7 PartB

5.9 On 1983 through 1985 models, rotate the Neutral start switch until there is continuity between the switch terminals,

then tighten the bolts 9 Connect an ohmmeter to the switch terminals and rotate the switch until there is continuity between the terminals, indicating

thai it is now in the Neutral position (see illustration). Tighten the switch bolts. 10 Connect the battery negative cable and verify that the engine will start only in Neutral

or Park.

1986 on Refer to illustration 5.17 11. Rotate the switch until the neutral basic line on the switch housing is lined up with the groove in the shift shaft and tighten the bolts securely (see illustration).

6

Automatic transaxle - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 6.3, 6.16 and 6.17

Removal 1 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Place the cable out of the way so it cannot accidentally come in contact with the negative terminal of the battery.

Automatic transaxle

5.11 On 1986 and later models, align the neutral basic line on the housing with the groove in the shift shaft and tighten the bolts

2 Remove the air cleaner assembly. 3. Disconnect the electrical connectors from the transaxle (see illustration). 4 Disconnect any vacuum hoses connected to the transaxle. 5 Disconnect the throttle valve cable from the throttle lever. 6 Disconnect the shift linkage from the transaxle. 7 Disconnect the speedometer cable. 8 Remove the starter motor (see Chapter 5). 9 Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. 10 Drain the transmission fluid (see Chapter 1). 11. Disconnect both driveaxles from the transaxle (See Chapter 8A). 12 Remove any exhaust components which will interfere with transaxle removal (see Chapter 4). 13 Support the engine using a hoist from above or a jack and a block of wood under the oil pan to spread the load. 14 Support the transaxle with a jack; preferably with a special jack made for this purpose. Safety chains will help steady the

transaxle on the jack.

6.16 Torque converter cover bolt locations (arrows)

6.3 Tag the electrical connectors with marked pieces of tape before disconnecting them

15

Remove

any

chassis

or suspension

components which will interfere with transaxle removal. On All-wheel drive mod-

els, remove the rear driveshaft (see Chapter 8B). 16 Remove the torque converter cover (see illustration). 17 Mark the torque converter and driveplate with white paint so they can be installed in the same position (see illustration). 18 Remove the six torque converter-todriveplate bolts. Turn the crankshaft for access to each one in turn. 19 Remove the transaxle mount bolts and nuts.

20 Remove the bolts securing the transaxle to the engine. 21 Lower the transaxle slightly and disconnect and plug the transaxle cooler lines. 22 Remove the transaxle fluid filler tube. 23 Move the transaxle to the side to disengage it from the engine block dowel pins and make sure the torque converter is detached from the driveplate. Secure the torque converter to the transaxle so it won’t fall out during removal. Lower the transaxle from the vehicle.

6.17 Mark the torque converter and driveplate with white paint so they can be reinstalled in the same relative position

7B-4 a

Chapter 7 PartB SR

RS

SESS

SS

SS

SSS

Installation 24 Make sure the torque converter hub is securely engaged in the pump prior to installation. 25

With the transaxle secured to the jack,

raise it into position. Be sure to keep it level so the torque converter does not slide forward. Connect the cooler lines. 26 Turn the torque converter to line up the bolt holes with the holes in the driveplate. The white paint marks on the torque converter and the driveplate made during Step 5 must line up. 27 Move the transaxle carefully into place

SCS

SS

STS

Automatic transaxle ST

SS

until the dowel pins are engaged torque converter is engaged.

ESE

and the

28 Install the transaxle housing-to-engine bolts and nuts. Tighten the bolts and nuts to the specified torque. 29 Install the torque converter-to-driveplate bolts. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque and install the cover. 30 Install any suspension and chassis components which were removed. Tighten the bolts and nuts to the specified torque. 31 Install the transaxle mounts and remove the jacks supporting the transaxle and the engine. 32 Connect the driveaxles.

PS

33 Install the fluid filler tube. 34 Install any exhaust system components which were removed. 35 Lower the vehicle. 36 Install the starter. vacuum hose(s) _ if 37 Connect the equipped. 38 Connect the shift and TV linkage. 39 Plug in the transaxle electrical connectors.

40 Connect the speedometer. 41 Adjust the shift linkage (see Section 31). 42 Fill the transaxle (see Chapter 1), run the vehicle and check for fluid leaks.

8A-1

Chapter 8 Part A Clutch and driveaxles Contents Section Clutch components - removal, inspection and installation............ 3 Clutenjodescriptionrand 'CheCk.,...2:-..,..:ssesieesssevicesuetantvelleccteestace 2 ClonchrAeicievelicheGkassnu.. cov. fatiscsess tosetoasocossstecsitteieens See Chapter 1 Clutch hydraulic system - DICedING.............:cecccesssceesscesscessscesseeens 7 Clutch master cylinder - removal, overhaul and installation.......... 5 Clutch pedal free play check and adjustment................. See Chapter 1

Section Differential side gear shaft oil seal - replacement......... See Chapter 7A Driveaxle:boot check .:.:...citiies piston hotesstereses cosucts See Chapter 1 Driveaxle boot replacement and CV joint overhaul.............ccceee 12 Driveaxle - removal and installation ...............ccosssssscsssssssencoestecseeee 10 Driveaxles - general information and CheCK..........cc:ccccccescesseesseees 9 Flywheel - removal and installation ............cc:cccccceceeeeeeeeee See Chapter 2

Clutch release bearing and fork - removal,

Generalsintorimation®......caserescssee te accu eens se eee nn ee eee

INSHSCLHON-AanGhinStallatlomperces.eetscst ects rciseasesessestenteee, Ooea sae Clutch release cylinder - removal, overhaul and installation.......... Clutch start system - inspection and adjustment ...............c0008

4 6 8

Intermediate driveshaft (center driveshaft) - removal, overnatiliandiinstallation, sees .e-resescccselien corset erent menee se aes

Specifications Note: Refer to Chapter 8 Part B for Specifications related to all-wheel drive models.

Clutch FRUCL BLY Oi seesee preteen seers dees cca sae cec te Sev anne Sees vyicicon nasesaneaceniecaes se spas etsies POCA RKOCUO A Vee eter cine ett sete esos oie USceniid vee valde op sdiamunreseisravanccervvveseBteecestes

eClaleNG IC tarern attest cee teak eeetee sy octars donepatesces ceseietesecoarsevsscchevnccotensess Driveaxles - standard length Front wheel drive MOB Ota CGAOlesen eaten vstsce ties sieurnas Secs .

y

20.6 Power steering pump installation details (1988 model shown,

Power Steering Pump

others similar)

Lower Crossmember

Drive Belt

Vacuum Hose

4

1 Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal. 2 Using a large syringe or suction gun, suck as much fluid out of the power steering fluid reservoir as possible. Place a drain pan under the vehicle to catch any fluid that spills out when the hoses are disconnected. 3 Loosen the right front wheel lug nuts, raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Remove the wheel. 4 Remove the suspension crossmember (see illustration 2.3). 5 Loosen the clamps and pull the vacuum hoses off the air control valve (if equipped). 6 Loosen the clamp and disconnect the fluid return hose from the pump (see illustration). 7 Remove the pressure line-to-pump

Chapter 10

Suspension and steering systems noise free.

METRIC TIRE SIZES P 18

/

7 Recheck the fluid level to be sure it is up to the Hot mark on the dipstick while the engine is at normal operating temperature. Add fluid if necessary (see Chapter 1).

80 R 13

TIRE TYPE a P-PASSENGER HUGS iotieanit lly

RIM DIAMETER

ASPECT RATIO (INCHES) (SECTION HEIGHT) (SECTION WIDTH) is 70 75 CONSTRUCTION TYPE SECTION WIDTH 8 R-RADIAL (MILLIMETERS) B-BIAS - BELTED 185 D-DIAGONAL (BIAS)

22.1

22

Metric tire size code

-=— SECTION

SECTION HEIGHT

Vertical

|

ale Centerline ° Vehicle

D Vertical

PAX

|

Refer to illustration 22.1 All vehicles covered by this manual are equipped with metric-sized fiberglass or steel belted radial tires (see illustration). Use of other size or type of tires may affect the ride and handling of the vehicle. Don't mix different types of tires, such as radials and bias belted, on the same vehicle as handling may be seriously affected. It's recommended that tires be replaced in pairs on the same axle, but if only one tire is being replaced, be sure it's the same size, structure and tread design as the other. Because tire pressure has a substantial

union bolt and separate the line from the pump. Remove the copper sealing washers on each side of the fitting - these should be replaced when installing the pump. 8 Remove the pivot and adjuster bolt and lower the pump from the vehicle.

all tires should be checked at least once a month or before any extended trips (see Chapter 1). Wheels must be replaced if they are bent, dented,

leak air, have elongated

bolt

9 To install the pump, reverse the removal procedure. Adjust the drivebelt tension following the procedure described in Chapter 1. 10 Top up the fluid level in the reservoir and bleed the system (see the following Section).

holes, are heavily rusted, out of vertical symmetry or if the lug nuts won't stay tight. Wheel repairs that use welding or peening are not recommended. Tire and wheel balance is important in the overall handling, braking and performance of the vehicle. Unbalanced wheels can adversely affect handling and ride characteristics as well as tire life. Whenever a tire is installed on a wheel, the tire and wheel should be balanced by a shop with the proper equipment.

21

23

Centerline

of Ball

Joint Axis

Power steering system - bleeding

1 Following any operation in which the power steering fluid lines have been disconnected, the power steering system must be bled to remove all air and obtain proper steering performance. 2 With the front wheels in the straight ahead position, check the power steering fluid level and, if low, add fluid until it reaches

TOE-IN (TOP VIEW) 23.1 Front end alignment details - camber (top) and toe-in (bottom). The actual adjustment of these angles is beyond the scope of the home mechanic and must be performed by an alignment shop or service station

Wheels and tires - general information

effect on handling and wear, the pressure on

Installation

CAMBER ANGLE (FRONT VIEW)

10-15

the Cold mark on the dipstick. 3. Start the engine and allow it to run at fast idle. Recheck the fluid level and add more if necessary to reach the Cold mark on the dipstick. 4 Bleed the system by turning the wheels from side to side, without hitting the stops. This will work the air out of the system. Keep the reservoir full of fluid as this is done. 5 When the air is worked out of the system, return the wheels to the straight ahead position and leave the vehicle running for several more minutes before shutting it off. 6 Road test the vehicle to be sure the steering system is functioning normally and

Front end alignment - general information

Refer to illustration 23.1 A front end alignment refers to the adjustments made to the front wheels so they are in proper angular relationship to the suspension and the ground. Front wheels that are out of proper alignment not only affect steering control, but also increase tire wear. The front end adjustments normally required are camber, caster and toe-in (see illustration).

Getting the proper front wheel alignment is a very exacting process, one in which complicated and expensive machines are necessary to perform the job properly. Because of this, you should have a technician with the proper equipment perform these tasks. We will, however, use this space to give you a basic idea of what is involved with front end alignment so you can better understand the process and deal intelligently with the shop that does the work.

10-16

Chapter 10

Toe-in is the turning in of the front wheels. The purpose of a toe specification is to ensure parallel rolling of the front wheels. In a vehicle with zero toe-in, the distance between the front edges of the wheels will be

the same as the distance between the rear edges of the wheels. The actual amount of toe-in is normally only a fraction of an inch. Toe-in adjustment is controlled by the tie-rod end position on the inner tie-rod. Incorrect toe-in will cause the tires to wear improperly

Suspension and steering systems

by making them scrub against the road surface. Camber is the tilting of the front wheels from the vertical when viewed from the front of the vehicle. When the wheels tilt out at the top, the camber is said to be positive (+). When the wheels tilt in at the top the camber is negative (-). The amount of tilt is measured in degrees from the vertical and this measurement is called the camber angle. This angle affects the amount of tire tread which

contacts the road and compensates for changes in the suspension geometry when the vehicle is cornering or traveling over an undulating surface. Caster is the tilting of the front steering axis from the vertical. A tilt toward the rear is positive caster and a tilt toward the front is negative caster. Caster is adjusted by inserting (or removing) spacers between the stabilizer bar and control arm.

11-1

Chapter 11

Body

Contents Section 22 2 6 5 16 13 10 17 20 8 1

Automatic shoulder harness - general information PLOT eC Creer ee Body - maintenance i aeaeselatiasesese seanethce Body repair - major damage .........ccccccseseeeeesees Sere oe eae eee Body repair - Minor damage ...........cceccceecseeseeseees BeAr pe teehee eessascects Door lock, lock cylinder and handle - removal and installation ..... Door - removal, installation and adjustment ....... sopaledenndensc Setcaeriee Door trim panel - removal and installation.......... Sade cthater sama eeeess Door window glass - removal and installation stapce eset erencteaaress Fender apron seal - removal and installation...... Pe iecte te rte Fixed glass - replaceMent...........cscecccessssseseseees Mscedivatse beweeieeres Gemeralintormation eerste. tyes oes esmasa dhdeterecieeecedty tions

1

General information

These models feature a "unibody" layout, using a floor pan with front and rear frame side rails which support the body components, front and rear suspension systems and other mechanical components. Certain components are particularly vulnerable to accident damage and can be unbolted and repaired or replaced. Among these parts are the body moldings, bumpers, hood and trunk lids and all glass. Only general body maintenance practices and body panel repair procedures

Section INGeSrandiOCkS —meainteMmanCOxer.neceestcsssteseeestaeeetanesec teeserences 7 Hood - removal, installation and adjustment .........ccccccccceeereeeees 9 Instrument panel finish panels - removal and installation............... 11 Liftgate - removal, installation and adjustment...........cccccceeee 15 Outside mirror - removal and installation ..........cc:cccccccesceesceseeeseeeees 18 SeatlbelticheCkircr.t.ttect cheeses Meee one eee Coen Seats —removaliand| installation, --cs.rssscrccsvacsseosecseseseesssceeeee mel Steering column cover - removal and installation.........c0ccc0. 12 Trunk lid - removal, installation and adjustment ..........cccccceereeee =14 Upholstery and carpets - maintenance............cccccscceessceeesseeesseeeees 4 Vinny isthind SimanteanGe te. )i

9.2 Use white paint or a scribe to mark the hood bolt locations - note the cloths protecting the windshield and body from damage if the hood should swing back

9.10a

Loosen the bolts with a wrench,

reposition the latch and retighten the b olts before checking the hood alignment

Door Glass

Division Bar Door Lock Solenoid Door Lock

10.2 Typical door components

Rear Door Belt

- exploded view

w/ Power Door Lock

Door Opening

Outside Handle

Control Link

Glass Run Door Glass Stopper Door Lock Knob

Door Lock (w/o Power Door Lock) Door Inside Locking Control Link

ees Window Regulator

9.10b Squeeze all of the clips in (arrows) and then pull the grille out for access to the latch

(w/o Power Window)

Door Trim

Service Hole Cover

Door Hinge

Window Regulator

9.11 Turn the hood bumpers with a screwdriver to adjust the hood so that it is flush with the fenders when closed

Door Inside Handle

w/ Power Window

(oS

cq

a

el

6-——_—_—_——_ Plate lee Regulator Handle

11-6

Chapter 11

Body

10.4 Pry under the clips to detach the trim panel 10.3a

Work a cloth up behind the

10.3b

regulator handle and move it back and forth...

... until the snap ring is pushed up so you can remove it

11.2a After prying the switch cover loose. the instrument cluster finish panel can be

11.1b 11.14a On earlier models the instrument panel speaker panels can be pried loose with a screwdriver

Later model speaker panels are held in place by a screw

detached after removing the four retaining screws (1983 through 1986 models) the plastic service hole cover, taking care not to tear it. To install, place the service hole

Sf\ 11.3a Remove the five retaining screws, detach the lower finish panel, unplug the

11.2b

1987 and 1988 instrument cluster finish panel details

cover in position and press it in place. 7 ~~ Prior to installation of the door panel, make sure to reinstall any clips in the panel which may have come out during the removal procedure and remain in the door itself. 8 Plug in any electrical connectors and place the panel in position in the door. Press the door panel into place until the clips are seated and install any retaining screws and armrest/door pulls. Install the manual regulator window crank or power switch assembly.

connectors and remove the panel (1983 through 1986 models)

11. closed, is flush with the fenders (see illustration). 12 The hood latch assembly, as well as the hinges, should be periodically lubricated with white lithium base grease to prevent sticking or jamming.

10

Door trim panel - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 10.2, 10.3a, 10.3b and 10.4 1 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Place the cable out of the way so it cannot accidentally come in contact with the negative terminal of the battery, as this would once again allow power into the electrical system of the vehicle.

2 Remove any door trim panel retaining screws and door pull/armrest assemblies (see illustration). 3 On manual window regulator equipped models, remove the window crank by working a cloth back and forth behind the handle to dislodge the snap-ring (see illustrations). On power regulator models, pry off the control switch assembly and unplug it. 4 Insert a large putty knife or a thin pry bar between the trim panel and the door and disengage the retaining clips, working around the outer edge until the panel is free of the door (see illustration). 5 Once all of the clips are disengaged, detach the trim panel, lift it away, unplug any electrical connectors and remove the trim panel from the vehicle. 6 For access to the inner door, peel back

Instrument panel finish panels removal and installation

Speaker panels Refer to illustrations 11.1a and 11.1b

1 Remove any screws and pry the panel(s) free with a screwdriver (see illustrations). Installation is the reverse of removal.

Instrument cluster finish panel Refer to illustrations 11.2a and 11.2b 2 Remove the retaining screws, rotate the panel down and lower it from the instrument panel (see illustrations). Installation is the reverse of removal.

Lower finish panel Refer to illustrations 11.3a and 11.3b 3 Remove the retaining screws, pull the

Chapter 11

11.3b

11.4a

1987 and 1988 lower finish

panel details

1983 through 1986 model

instrument panel center lower finish

panel details

11.5a

Open the glove compartment for

11.5b

access to the retaining screws (1983 through 1986 models)

1987 and 1988 glove

compartment details

panel down, unplug any electrical connectors and detach the panel (see illustrations). Installation is the reverse of removal.

13

Center lower panel

Refer to illustrations 13.2, 13.3, 13.5a, 13.5b,

Refer to illustrations 11.44 and 11.4b 4 Remove the retaining screws, detach the panel and lower it from the instrument panel (see illustrations). Installation is the reverse of removal.

Glove compartment

qMe7

Body

Door - removal, installation and adjustment

13.5c, 13.5d and 13.5e 1 Remove the door trim panel. Disconnect any electrical connectors and push them through the door opening so they won't interfere with door removal. 2 Either place a jack or stand under the door or have an assistant on hand to support

11.4b

Instrument panel center lower finish panel details (1987 and 1988 models)

12.1 The steering column cover screws are accessible from under the column

it when the hinge bolts are removed (see illustration). Note: /f a jack or stand is being used, place a rag between it and the door to protect the door's painted surfaces. 3. Scribe around the door bolts (see illustration). 4 Remove the hinge-to-door bolts and carefully lift off the door. Installation is the reverse of removal. 5 Following installation of the door, check that it is in proper alignment and adjust it if necessary as follows:

Refer to illustrations 11.5a and 11.5b 5 Open the glove compartment for access, remove the retaining screws and pull the assembly down out of the instrument panel (see illustrations). Installation is the reverse of removal.

12

Steering column cover - removal and installation

Refer to illustration 12.1 1 Remove the retaining screws (see illustration). 2 Carefully pry the halves of the cover apart. Unplug any electrical connectors and remove the cover halves from the steering column. 3 Installation is the reverse of removal.

13.2 Use two jackstands padded with rags (to protect the paint) to support the door during the removal and installation procedures

13.3 Before loosening or removing them, scribe or paint around the door bolts

11-8

13.5a When adjusting forward or backward, special cranked wrench available at most auto equivalent will make

}

Chapter 11

Body

13.5b Adjust the front door up and down or in and out after loosening the hinge to door bolts with a box end wrench

the front door up or down, a such as this one, parts stores, or the job easier

13.5c Use a socket with extension to loosen the bolts when making rear door adjustments

~~)

+

13.5e Adjust the door lock striker by 13.5d Use a box end wrench to loosen the rear door side hinge bolts (left/right and vertical adjustment)

loosening the retaining screws and tapping the striker in the desired direction

14.3 Scribe or paint around the trunk lid bolts before removing them

a) Up-and-down and forward-and-backward adjustments are made by loosening the hinge-to-body bolts and moving the door, as necessary. A_ special cranked tool may be required to reach some of the bolts (see illustrations). b) The door lock striker can also be adjusted both up-and-down and sideways to provide a positive engagement

with the locking mechanism. This is done by loosening the screws and moving the striker, as necessary (see illustration).

5

Installation is the reverse

of removal.

Note: When reinstalling the trunk lid, align the

lid-to-hinge bolts with the marks made during removal.

6 After installation, close the lid and check that it is in proper alignment with the surrounding panels. Fore-and-aft and side-toside adjustments of the lid are controlled by the position of the hinge bolts in their slots. To adjust, loosen the hinge bolts, reposition the lid and retighten the bolts (see illustration). 7 The height of the lid in relation to the surrounding body panels when closed can be

adjusted by loosening the lock and/or striker 14

Trunk lid - removal, installation

and adjustment

bolts, repositioning the striker and tightening the bolts (see illustrations).

14.6 Use a wrench to loosen the trunk lid bolts so the lid position can be adjusted

Refer to illustrations 14.3, 14.6, 14.7a and

14.7b 1 Open the trunk lid and cover the edges of the trunk compartment with pads or cloths to protect the painted surfaces when the lid is removed. 2 Disconnect any cable or electrical connectors which are attached to the trunk lid and would interfere with removal. 3. Scribe or paint alignment marks around the hinge bolt mounting flanges (see illustration). 4 While an assistant supports the lid, remove the lid-to-hinge bolts on both sides and lift off the lid.

14.7a On 1983 through 1986 models, the trunk lid lock striker position can be adjusted after loosening the retaining bolts

14.7b On 1987 and 1988 models, loosen the trunk lid lock striker bolts and use a punch and hammer to tap the striker into the proper position

Chapter 11 15

11-9

Body

Liftgate - removal, installation and adjustment

Refer to illustrations 15.4, 15.5 and 15.8 1 Open the liftgate and cover the upper body area around the opening with pads or cloths to protect the painted surfaces when the liftgate is removed. 2 Disconnect any cables, hoses or electrical connectors which would interfere with removal of the liftgate. 3. Paint or scribe around the mounting bolts. 4 While an assistant supports the liftgate, detach the support struts (see illustration). 5 Remove the hinge bolts and detach the liftgate from the vehicle (see illustration). 6 Installation is the reverse of removal. 7 After installation, close the liftgate and check that the door is in proper alignment

with the surrounding panels. Adjustments to the liftgate are made by moving the position

16

Door lock, lock cylinder and handle - removal and installation

1

Remove the door trim panel and service

hole cover (Section 10). 2 Remove the door window glass (Section 17).

Door lock 15.4 Use an open end wrench to unscrew the liftgate support strut nuts of the hinge bolts in their slots. To adjust,

loosen the hinge bolts and reposition them either side-to-side or fore-and-aft the desired amount and retighten the bolts. 8 The engagement of the liftgate can be adjusted by loosening the lock striker screws, repositioning the striker and tightening the screws (see illustration).

Back Door Hinge

High Mount Stop Light

P

Refer to illustrations 16.4a, 16.4b and 16.5 3 Reach in through the door service hole and disconnect the control link from the lock (see illustration 10.2). 4 Remove the three door lock retaining screws from the end of the door (see illustration). Remove the door lock and (if equipped) solenoid (see illustration). 5 Installation is the reverse of removal. When connecting the outside door handle control link to the lock on 1983 through 1986 models, raise the link 0.020 to 0.039 inch (0.5

Back Door Damper Stay

©

Upper Door Trim

Lower Moulding

Door Lock Control

‘ a

Door Lock

Back Door Garnish

GE

15.5 Liftgate installation details (1987 and 1988 model shown) Combination Light Door Lock Striker

15.8 To adjust the liftgate lock striker, loosen the retaining screws and move the striker in the desired direction by tapping on it

16.4a Use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove the door lock retaining screws located in the end of the door

16.4b Door lock solenoid installation details

11-10

Chapter 11 Body

i

Py 16.5 To adjust the outside handle during installation on 1983 through 1986 models, raise the control link with the adjuster and fit the pin into the hole

16.7 Use pliers to pull off the lock cylinder retaining clip

16.13 Remove the outside door handle retaining nuts from inside the door, using a socket with extension or nut driver

to 1.0 mm) and insert the pin into the lock hole by turning the adjuster (see illustration).

Lock cylinder Refer to illustration 16.7 6 Disconnect the control link and electrical connector (if equipped) from the lock cylinder. 7 Use pliers to slide the retaining clip off and remove the lock cylinder from the door (see illustration). 8 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Inside handle

Outside handle Refer to illustration 16.13 12 Disconnect the control link from the handle. 13 Remove the nuts and detach the handle

from the door (see illustration). 14

Installation is the reverse of removal.

17

Door window glass - removal and installation

NS) 1

the two window glass retaining nuts

...and pull the division bar out of the door cavity

out of the door (see illustrations). 4 Scribe or paint marks on the two window-to-glass channel nuts and remove them (see illustration). 5 Remove the window glass by tilting it to

detach the glass from the glass channel studs and then sliding the glass up and out of the door (see illustration). 6 If necessary, remove the regulator retaining bolts and then slide the regulator out of the opening in the door. i Installation is the reverse of removal.

Refer to illustrations 17.3a, 17.3b, 17.4 and

9 Remove the retaining screw(s) (see illustration). 10 Rotate the handle away and detach it

17.4 After marking their positions, remove

17.3b

17.3a Remove the division bar retaining screws. pull out the glass run...

Refer to illustration 16.9

from the door. 11 Installation is the reverse of removal.

16.9 Use a screwdriver or nut driver to remove the inside door handle screws

18 Remove the door trim panel and service

hole cover (Section 10). 2 __ Lower the window glass. 3 On rear doors, remove the retaining screws and pull the glass run and division bar

17.5 Lift the door glass up and angle it out, toward the outside of the door

Outside mirror - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 18.1 and 18.3

1

Use a screwdriver to pry off the trim

cover (see illustration).

18.1

Pry off the outside mirror trim cover with a screwdriver

Chapter 11 20

Body

$4214

Fender apron seal - removal and installation Sedan

Refer to illustration 20.2

Fixed type

1 Raise the vehicle, support it securely and remove the front wheel(s). 2 Pry out the retaining clips with a screwdriver, remove the bolts and lower the seal from the fender well (see illustration). 3 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Ha

Me

18.3 Use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove the three mirror retaining screws (arrows)

2

On power mirrors unplug the electrical

connector.

3 Remove the three retaining screws and lift off the mirror (see illustration). 4 Installation is the reverse of removal.

19

Seats - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 19.1a, 19.1b and 19.1c 1 Remove the retaining bolts, unplug any electrical connectors and lift the seats from the vehicle (see illustrations). 2 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Station Wagon

19.1b

Typical front seat installation details (1987 and 1988 models)

19.1c

Typical rear seat installation details (1987 and 1988 models)

Rear Seat Cushion Front Hook Front Seat Track

Rear Seat Side Hinge Rear Seat Cushion Hinge

_

ee

:

ae

:

20.2 Pry out the fender apron seal plastic 19.1a

Typical 1983 through 1986 model seat installation details

retaining pins with a small screwdriver

11-12 21

Seat belt check

Chapter 11 22

Body

Automatic shoulder harnesses -

general information 1 Check the seat belts, buckles, latch plates and guide loops for any obvious dam-

age or signs of wear. 2 Check that the seat belt reminder light comes on when the key is turned to the Run or Start positions. A chime should also sound. 3 ‘The seat belts are designed to lock up during a sudden stop or impact, yet allow free movement during normal driving. Check that the retractors return the belt against your chest while driving and rewind the belt fully when the buckle is unlatched. 4 If any of the above checks reveal problems with the seat belt system, replace parts as necessary.

der harness. Make sure the release lever is down and the light/buzzer are off to ensure proper operation of the automatic shoulder harness. Also, if you disconnect any wires or

Many late model vehicles are equipped with automatic front seat shoulder harnesses. They are termed automatic because you don't have to buckle them - the shoulder harness automatically positions itself when the door is closed and the key is turned on. An emergency release lever allows the harness to be manually removed for exit in an emergency. Warning: Be sure to fasten the manual seatbelt as well. The automatic shoulder harness

will not work properly unless

the

seatbelt is fastened. Most systems have a warning light and buzzer that indicate the emergency release lever has been pulled up, releasing the shoul-

remove any automatic shoulder harness components when performing repair procedures on other vehicle components, be sure to reinstall everything and check the harness for proper operation when the repairs are complete. Since the automatic shoulder harness is operated by several electrical switches and is computer controlled, diagnosis and repair must be done by a dealer service department. Do not jeopardize the safety of front seat occupants - if the automatic shoulder harness malfunctions, or you have questions regarding the proper use or operation of the system, contact a dealer service department.

12-1

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system Contents Section Herren See Chapter1 devcereseeee See Chapter 5 14 shodcheceetwevsneenseeeects Brake light switch - removal, installation and Xo |USLIAMIETN cnacseecceceerctrer ceca:Beeah or Dae eer See Chapter 9 Circuit breakers - general information................. PseseecaeeNenee eatecte 5 Combination switch - removal and installation miiat decbecerenety sue scaae See 9 Cruise control system - description and checking brgeee suse Seeeosnet ste 18 Electrical troubleshooting - general information seta naentee uae ee ccne 2 Fuses —gemerall InfOrmatiOn)....:....:..cc0:s00sse0ccesee- BS Pestnest eee aae ee 3 Fusible links - general information .............:00..68 a cabenpiered savaucwesdewees 4 Gomeraljimtoninatiom cz. crt tess sresccrh- trends cessaases-3e wsaysCucts verse dezee7en tthe 1 ak deuveossaravas (otue sacs 13

1

General information

connections,

Section headlights removal:ancdiinstallationsecssmeessester eee eee ee eT 8 Ignition switch and lock cylinder - removal and installation .......... Instrument cluster - removal and installation ......0..0cccccccceeeeeeee 16 is Instrument panel - removal and installation ............ccccccseseesseeseeeees Neutral start switch - replacement and adjustment...... See Chapter 7B Power door lock system - description and checking... 19 Power window system - description and checking ...........000. 20 Radio and speakers - removal and installation 11 Relays - general information ...........c.cccccscsessseeees 6 Steering column switches - removal and installation................. 10 Turn signal/hazard flashers - check and replacement................0+. 7 Windshield wiper motor - removal and installation...........00c000. 15 Wiring diagrams - general information ..........cccccecccesesseeseseeseees QT

a blown fuse, a melted fusible

link or a bad relay. Visually inspect the condition of all fuses, wires and connections

The electrical system is a 12-volt, negative ground type. Power for the lights and all electrical accessories is supplied by a lead/acid-type battery which is charged by the alternator. This Chapter covers repair and service procedures for the various electrical components not associated with the engine. Information on the battery, alternator, distributor and starter motor can be found in Chapter 5. It should be noted that when portions of the electrical system are serviced, the cable should be disconnected from the negative battery terminal to prevent electrical shorts and/or fires.

2

‘Electrical troubleshooting general information

A typical electrical circuit consists of an electrical component, any switches, relays, motors, fuses, fusible links or circuit breakers related to that component and the wiring and connectors that link the component to both the battery and the chassis. To help you pinpoint an electrical circuit problem, wiring diagrams are included at the end of this book. Before tackling any troublesome electrical circuit, first study the appropriate wiring diagrams to get a complete understanding of what makes up that individual circuit. Trouble spots, for instance, can often be narrowed down by noting if other components related to the circuit are operating properly. If several components or circuits fail at one time, chances are the problem is in a fuse or ground connection, because several circuits

are often routed through the same fuse and ground connections. Electrical problems usually stem from simple causes, such as loose or corroded

in a

problem circuit before troubleshooting it. If testing instruments are going to be utilized, use the diagrams to plan ahead of time

where you will make the necessary connections in order to accurately pinpoint the trouble spot. The basic tools needed for electrical troubleshooting include a circuit tester or voltmeter (a 12-volt bulb with a set of test leads can also be used), a continuity tester, which includes a bulb, battery and set of test

leads, and a jumper wire, preferably with a circuit breaker incorporated, which can be used to bypass electrical components. Before attempting to locate a problem with test instruments, use the wiring diagram(s) to decide where to make the connections.

Voltage checks Voltage checks should be performed if a circuit is not functioning properly. Connect one lead of a circuit tester to either the negative battery terminal or a known good ground. Connect the other lead to a connector in the circuit being tested, preferably nearest to the battery or fuse. If the bulb of the tester lights, voltage is present, which means that the part of the circuit between the connector and the battery is problem free. Continue checking the rest of the circuit in the same fashion. When you reach a point at which no voltage is present, the problem lies between that point and the last test point with voltage. Most of the time the problem can be traced to a loose connection. Note: Keep in mind that some circuits receive voltage only when the ignition key is in the Accessory or Run position.

Finding a short One method of finding shorts in a circuit is to remove the fuse and connect a test light or voltmeter in its place to the fuse terminals.

There should be no voltage present in the circuit. Move the wiring harness from side to side while watching the test light. If the bulb goes on, there is a short to ground somewhere in that area, probably where the insulation has rubbed through. The same test can be performed on each component in the circuit, even a switch.

Ground check Perform a ground test to check whether a component is properly grounded. Disconnect the battery and connect one lead of a self-powered test light, Known as a continuity tester, to a Known good ground. Connect the other lead to the wire or ground connection being tested. If the bulb goes on, the ground is good. If the bulb does not go on, the ground is not good.

Continuity check A continuity check is done to determine if there are any breaks in a circuit - if it is passing electricity properly. With the circuit off (no power in the circuit), a self-powered continuity tester can be used to check the circuit. Connect the test leads to both ends of the circuit (or to the "power" end and a good ground), and if the test light comes on the circuit is passing current properly. If the light doesn't come on, there is a break somewhere

in the circuit. The same procedure can be used to test a switch, by connecting the continuity tester to the power in and power out sides of the switch. With the switch turned On, the test light should come on.

Finding an open circuit When diagnosing for possible open circuits, it is often difficult to locate them

by

sight because oxidation or terminal misalignment are hidden by the connectors. Merely wiggling a connector on a sensor or in the wiring harness may correct the open circuit condition. Remember this when an open cir-

12-2 2Ser

ey

Chapter 12 PS

RACE SP)

FE

STEPS

ESTA

cuit is indicated when troubleshooting a circuit. Intermittent problems may also be caused by oxidized or loose connections. Electrical troubleshooting is simple if you keep in mind that all electrical circuits are basically electricity running from the battery, through the wires, switches, relays, fuses and fusible links to each electrical component (light bulb, motor, etc.) and to ground, from

which it is passed back to the battery. Any electrical problem

is an interruption in the

flow of electricity to and from the battery.

Ya

3

Chassis electrical system

SETS

VS EO

SP

TS

Fuses - general information

Refer to illustrations 3.1 and 3.3 The electrical circuits of the vehicle are protected by a combination of fuses, circuit breakers and fusible links. The fuse blocks are located under the instrument panel on the left side of the dashboard and next to the battery in the engine compartment (see illustration). Each of the fuses is designed to protect a specific circuit, and the various circuits are identified on the fuse panel itself. Miniaturized fuses are employed in the fuse block. These compact fuses, with blade terminal design, allow fingertip removal and replacement. If an electrical component fails,

always check the fuse first.

3.1 The engine compartment fuse block is located next to the battery, under a cover

ET

A blown fuse is

easily identified through the clear plastic body. Visually inspect the element for evidence of damage (see illustration). If a continuity check is called for, the blade terminal tips are exposed in the fuse body. Be sure to replace blown fuses with the correct type. Fuses of different ratings are physically interchangeable, but only fuses of the proper rating should be used. Replacing a fuse with one of a higher or lower value than specified is not recommended. Each electrical circuit needs a specific amount of protection. The amperage value of each fuse is molded into the fuse body.

GASOLINE-POWERED VEHICLES

GOOD

3.3 When a fuse blows, the element between the terminals melts - the fuse on the left is blown, the fuse on the

right is good

Rinswws.

MELTED

4.2 Fusible links can be checked visually to determine if they are melted

If the replacement fuse immediately fails, don't replace it again until the cause of the problem is isolated and corrected. In most cases, this will be a short circuit in the wiring caused by a broken or deteriorated

wire.

4

Fusible links - general information

Refer to illustrations 4.2, 4.3a and 4.3b Some circuits are protected by fusible links. The links are used in circuits which are not ordinarily fused, such as the ignition circuit. The fusible links on these models are similar to fuses in that they can be visually checked to determine if they are melted (see illustration). To replace a fusible link, first disconnect

the negative cable from the battery. Unplug the burned out link and replace it with a new one (available from your dealer) (See illustrations). Always determine the cause for the overload which melted the fusible link before installing a new one.

5

Circuit breakers - general information

Refer to illustration 5.3 Circuit breakers protect components such as power windows, power door locks and headlights. Some circuit breakers are located in the fuse box. Because on some models the circuit breaker resets itself automatically, an electrical overload in a circuit breaker protected system will cause the circuit to fail momentarily, then come back on. If the circuit does not come back on, check it immediately. Note, however, that some circuit breakers must be reset manually. Once the condition is corrected, the circuit breaker will resume its normal function. To reset a manual circuit breaker, first

tne

4.3a The fusible links are protected by a cover which is marked with the link circuit and amperage

4.3b Unplug the fusible link and replace it with a new one - always determine the cause of the circuit overload before replacement

5.3 Insert a pin or paper clip into the circuit breaker reset hole and push in to reset it

Chapter 12 disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal. Remove the circuit breaker, insert a pin into the reset hole and push in (see illustration). Reinstall the circuit breaker.

6

Chassis electrical system

12-3

Cruise Control Computer * Rear Fog Light Relay (EUR) ¢ Bulb Check

Door Control Relay

a

Relay

ae ee a ee

Te

Relays - general information

Refer to illustrations 6.2a and 6.2b Several electrical accessories in the vehicle use relays to transmit the electrical signal to the component. If the relay is defective, that component

Circuit Breaker (Heater) 30A

Sf

:

DP

Fuse (A/C) 10A

Ss

SSS =) ) « te =

:

:

Se; pt

(Australia)

Main Relay

Turn Signal Gn -——~ Flasher

rae

4

x Se

rat T

ZZ

The various relays are grouped together in several locations under the dash for conve-

qualified shop. Defective replaced as a unit.

relays

must

Dim-Dip Relay

(W.K. only)

Fuse and Relay Block No.1

nience in the event of needed replacement (see illustrations). If a faulty relay is suspected, it can be removed and tested by a dealer or other

Breaker (Power) 30A

|

Defogger Relay

will not operate prop-

erly.

Circuit

Integration Relay (: Headlight Auto Cut System ¢ Interior Light Fade-Out System

6.2a

1987 and 1988 model relay locations

be

7

Turn signal/hazard flashers check and replacement

1

The turn signal/hazard flasher, a small

canister shaped unit located under the dash (see illustrations 6.2a and 6.2b), flashes the turn signals. 2 When the flasher unit is functioning properly, and audible click can be heard during its operation. If the turn signals fail on one side or the other and the flasher unit does not make its characteristic clicking sound, a faulty turn signal bulb is indicated. 3 If both turn signals fail to blink, the problem may be due to a blown fuse, a faulty flasher unit, a broken switch or a loose or open connection. If a quick check of the fuse box indicates that the turn signal fuse has

Front Wiper Control Relay

Defogger Relay

2) 1

{ 1

Ge Sp

Charge Light Relay

;kes $}——_—_ A

eee

Circuit Breaker Power Main Relay

if

Interior Light Control Relay

blown, check the wiring for a short before installing a new fuse. 4 To replace the flasher, simply pull it out of the fuse block or wiring harness. 5 Make sure that the replacement unit is identical to the original. Compare the old one

to the new one before installing it. 6 _ Installation is the reverse of removal.

8

Ignition switch and lock cylinder - removal and installation

Heater Relay ~ —Circuit Breaker

1 Disconnect the negative cable at the battery. Place the cable out of the way so it cannot accidentally come in contact with the negative terminal of the battery, as this would once again allow power into the electrical system of the vehicle. 2 Remove the steering wheel (Chapter 10). 3 Remove the lower finish panel and the steering column cover (Chapter 11).

Cruise Control Computer

Seat Belt Warning Relay

OES 6.2b Typical relay locations (1983 through 1986 models)

12-4

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

Beier

8.4 Remove the retaining screw (A), bend the wiring tabs (B) back and withdraw the ignition switch from the housing

Ignition switch Refer to illustration 8.4 4 Remove the retaining screw and bend back the wiring retainer (see illustration). 5 Unplug the electrical connector and lift the switch from the steering column. 6 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Lock cylinder Refer to illustration 8.7 7 ~ With the key in the Accessory position, insert a pin in the hole in the casting, pull the lock cylinder straight out and remove it from the steering column (see illustration). 8 Installation is the reverse of removal.

9

Combination switch - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 9.4 and 9.5 1 Disconnect the negative cable at the battery. Place the cable out of the way so it cannot accidentally come in contact with the negative terminal of the battery, as this would once again allow power into the electrical system of the vehicle. 2 Remove the steering wheel (Chapter 10).

a

8.7 Insert a pin or paper clip into the casting hole (a bent tool should be used due to limited clearance) and with the key in the Accessory position, pull the lock cylinder sharply in the direction shown to remove it

3 Remove the lower finish panel and steering column cover (Chapter 11). 4 Remove the retaining screws (see illustration). 5 Trace the wiring harness down the steering column to the connector. Release the wiring retainer clamp (if equipped), unplug the connector and slide the switch up off the column (see illustration). 6 Installation is the reverse of removal.

9.4 Combination switch retaining screw locations (arrows) from the combination switch connector plug (Steps 13 through 16). 5 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Wiper/washer/cruise control switch Refer to illustration 10.6 6 Remove the retaining screws,

8

10

Steering column switches removal and installation

1 Remove the combination switch (Section 9).

Turn signal/headlight control switch

detach

the switch and lift it off the combination switch (see illustration). 7 Disconnect the switch wiring terminals from the combination switch connector plug (Steps 13 through 16). Installation is the reverse of removal.

Hazard warning flasher switch Refer to illustration 10.10 9 Remove the turn signal/headlight control switch. 10 Remove the retaining screws, detach the switch and lift it off the combination switch (see illustration).

Refer to illustration 10.2 2 Disconnect the wiring harness clips and pry off the switch cover with a small screwdriver (see illustration). 3 Remove the retaining screws and lift the switch off. 4 Disconnect the switch wiring terminals

WS

9.5 Release the harness clamp, swing it out of the way (arrow) and unplug the connector

10.2

Use a small screwdriver to pry off the switch cover

10.10

Hazard warning switch details

Chapter 12

10.13 Cut or disconnect any wiring ties (arrow) or straps to make the job of tracing the switch wires to the combination switch connector easier

10.14 Use a small screwdriver or punch to push the combination switch connector

Pull the radio out, reach behind

unplug

the

electrical

connector

the

antenna lead.

5

Lift the radio from the instrument panel.

6

Installation is the reverse of removal.

Wiring connectors

Speakers

Refer to illustrations 10.13, 10.14, 10.15a,

Refer to illustration 11.8 7 Remove the speaker cover(s) (Chapter 11). 8 Remove the retaining screws or bolts, unplug the connector and lower the speaker from the instrument panel (see illustration). 9 Installation is the reverse of removal.

be disconnected to the combination switch connector. It may be necessary to detach or cut some of the wiring ties or straps to separate the wires of a particular switch from the harness (see illustration). Mark the wires and combination switch terminals with pieces of tape so that only the wires involved with a specific switch are disconnected. 14 Use asmail screwdriver or punch to pry the combination switch cover up for access to the terminals (see illustration). 15 Insert a small screwdriver or punch into

the connector and pry the locking lug down, disconnect the terminal and then pull it out to remove it (see illustrations). 16 Toconnect the terminal, insert it into the connector and push in with a small screwdriver until the locking lug snaps into place (see illustration). 17 Snap the connector cover shut to lock the terminals.

11

Radio and speakers - removal and installation

10.15a Insert a small screwdriver or punch into the connector...

it and

and

(Steps 13 through 16). 12 Installation is the reverse of removal.

10.156 and 10.16 13 Trace the wiring harness from the switch

12-5

up (arrow) for access to the terminals 4

11. Disconnect the switch wiring terminals from the combination switch connector plug

Chassis electrical system

12

10.15b ...and pry the locking lug down so the terminal can be disconnected

10.16 Push in on the connector collar until the connector snaps in place

Headlights - removal and installation

1 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Place the cable out of the way so it cannot accidentally come in contact with the negative terminal of the battery, as this would once again allow power into the electrical system of the vehicle.

Sealed-beam type Refer to illustration 12.2

2 Loosen the retaining screws, insert a screwdriver blade into the clips at the base to release them and detach the headlight bezel (see illustration). 3 Remove the headlight retainer screws, taking care not to disturb the adjustment

11.3 Typical radio installation details

HEADLIGHT DOOR

screws.

1 Disconnect the negative cable at the battery. Place the cable out of the way so it cannot accidentally come in contact with the negative terminal of the battery, as this would once again allow power into the electrical system of the vehicle.

Radio Refer to illustration 11.3 2 Remove the instrument panel center lower finish panel (Chapter 11). 3 Remove the radio mounting screws or polts (see illustration).

—_—"

11.8 Instrument panel mounted speaker details

12.2 After loosening the screws, insert a flat screwdriver blade into the clips and turn to unlock the bezel so it can be lifted

off (sealed beam headlights)

12-6

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

BULB RETAINING RING

12.9 Turn the bulb retaining ring counterclockwise and withdraw the assembly from the housing 12.8 Press in on the locking tab and unplug the connector from the bulb-type headlight housing

from your skin could cause it to overheat and fail prematurely. If you do touch the bulb surface, clean it with rubbing alcohol. 8 Open the hood. Unplug the electrical

4 Remove the retainer and pull the headlight out sufficiently to allow the connector to be unplugged. 5 Remove the headlight. 6 To install, plug the connector securely into the headlight, place the headlight in position and install the retainer and screws. Tighten the screws securely. 7 Place the headlight bezel in position, press it into place and tighten the retaining screws.

connector (see illustration).

Bulb type

9 Reach behind the headlight assembly, grasp the bulb holder and turn it counterclockwise to remove it (see illustration). Lift the holder assembly out for access to the bulb. 10 Push in and rotate the bulb counterclockwise to remove it. 11 Insert the new bulb into the holder and turn it clockwise to seat it in the holder (see illustration). 12 Install the bulb holder in the headlight

Refer to illustrations 12.8, 12.9 and 12.11

assembly.

Warning: The halogen gas filled bulbs used on these models are under pressure and may shatter if the surface is scratched or the bulb is dropped. Wear eye protection and handle the bulbs carefully, grasping only the base whenever possible. Do not touch the surface of the bulb with your fingers because the oil

:

13

Refer to illustrations 13.6a and 13.66 Note: /t is important that the headlights be aimed correctly. If adjusted incorrectly they

“| High-Inten

,

Floor to Center.

, Area} |

Headlights - adjustment

ae

Center of Vehicle to Center of

HEH

aie aod 12.11 Bulb housing installation details align the tab with the slot on the headlight housing, push in and turn clockwise to lock it

could blind the driver of an oncoming vehicle and cause a serious accident or seriously reduce your ability to see the road, The headlights should be checked for proper aim every 12 months and any time a new headlight is installed or front end body work is performed. It should be emphasized that the following procedure is only an interim step which will provide temporary adjustment until the headlights can be adjusted by a properly equipped shop. 1 Headlights have two adjusting screws, one on the top controlling up and down movement and one on the side controlling left and right movement. 2 _ There are several methods of adjusting the headlights. The simplest method requires a blank wall 25 feet in front of the vehicle and a level floor (see illustration). 3 Position masking tape vertically on the wall in reference to the vehicle centerline and the centerlines of both headlights. 4 Position a horizontal tape line in reference to the centerline of all the headlights. Note: /t may be easier to position the tape on the wall with the vehicle parked only a few inches away. 5 Adjustment should be made with the vehicle sitting level, the gas tank half-full and no unusually heavy load in the vehicle. 6 Starting with the low beam adjustment, position the high intensity zone so it is two inches below the horizontal line and two inches to the right of the headlight vertical line. Adjustment on sealed beam equipped models is made by turning the top adjusting screw clockwise to raise the beam and counterclockwise to lower the beam (see illustra-

Centerline

Front of Headlamp

13.2 Headlight adjustment details

AIM ADJUSTING SCREWS 50029-12-19.3 HAYNES ES

13.6a Sealed beam headlight adjusting screw locations

Chapter 12

12-7

Chassis electrical system

14.2a Parking and front side marker light details (1983 through 1986 models)

14.2b

Parking light details (1987 through 1988 models)

13.6b On bulb-type headlights, the upper adjusting screw (arrow) moves the beam horizontally and the lower screw (accessible under the housing with a Phillips head screwdriver) moves it vertically tion). The adjusting screw on the side should be used in the same manner to move the beam left or right. On bulb-type headlights, the top adjusting screw moves the headlight

assembly

14.2c

Front turn signal light details

right or left and the lower one

moves it up and down (see illustration). 7 With the high beams on, the high intensity zone should be vertically centered with the exact center just below the horizontal line. Note: /t may not be possible to position the headlight aim exactly for both high and low beams. If a compromise must be made, keep in mind that the low beams are the most used and have the greatest effect on driver safety. 8 Have the headlights adjusted by a dealer service department at the earliest opportunity.

14

Bulb replacement

Refer to illustrations 14.2a through 14.20 and

14.4 1. The lenses of many lights are held in place by screws, which makes it a simple procedure to gain access to the bulbs. 2 Onsome lights the lenses are held in place by clips. On these, the lenses can either be removed by unsnapping them or by using a small screwdriver to pry them off (see illustrations).

14.2e Personal light bulb installation details

REMOVE:

AoA

INSTALL:

14.2f Typicai door courtesy light details

INSTALL:

REMOVE:

aCe 14.2h

Coe

@

1983 through 1986 liftback model high mounted stop light details

14.21 Station wagon high mounted stop light details

12-8

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

% 14.2k 1983 through 1986 sedan model rear turn signal, stop, tail, backup and license plate light details

14.2] Rear side marker light details

14.21 1987 and 1988 model sedan stop, tail, backup and license plate light details

INNER COVER

To remove inner cover, release all retainers.

14.2n 14.2m_

INNER COVER

Liftback license plate light details

Station wagon rear turn signal, stop and tail light details

To remove inner cover, release all retainers.

2. PULL OUT

1, LOOSEN

14.20

Station wagon license plate lights

3 Several types of bulbs are used. Some are removed by pushing in and turning counterclockwise. Others can simply be unclipped from the terminals or pulled straight out of the socket. 4 To gain access to the instrument panel illumination lights (see illustration), the instrument cluster will have to be removed as described in Section 16.

14.4 After removing the instrument cluster, turn the bulb holders, lift them out and withdraw the bulbs

once again allow power into the electrical system of the vehicle. 2 _ Unplug the electrical connector, remove the retaining bolts and lift the wiper motor from the engine compartment (see illustration). 3 __ Installation is the reverse of removal.

16

15

15.2 Unplug the electrical connector (A), remove the bolts (B) and lift the wiper motor off

Windshield wiper motor removal and installation

Refer to illustration 15.2 1 Disconnect the negative cable at the battery. Place the cable out of the way so it cannot accidentally come in contact with the negative terminal of the battery, as this would

Instrument cluster - removal and instaliation

Refer to illustration 16.5 1 Disconnect the negative cable at the battery. Place the cable out of the way so it cannot accidentally come in contact with the negative terminal of the battery, as this would once again allow power into the electrical system of the vehicle.

Chapter 12

16.5

2 Remove the steering column covers (Chapter 11). 3 Remove the screws holding the cluster finish panel in place, then remove the finish panel (Chapter 11). 4 Onsome models it will be necessary to grasp the speedometer cable collar and pull it toward the cluster to detach the cable. On later models, the cable unlocks automatically when the cluster is pulled out. 5 Remove the retaining screws, then pull out the instrument cluster and disconnect the wiring connectors (see illustration).

Instrument cluster details

12-9

Chassis electrical system

6 Toreplace any faulty components within the cluster, simply unbolt or unscrew them and replace them with new units. 7 Installation is the reverse of removal.

17

Instrument panel - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 17.3a, 17.3b, 17.4a and

17.4b 1 Disconnect

the negative cable at the

a

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SS

side Detroster Nozzle-_—————_ sp

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Air Duct

Combination

Cum Side Defroster Duct

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Sp

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Column

Housing

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No. 3 Panel Register

No. 2 Panel Register

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17.3a Instrument panel component layout (1983 through 1986 models)

Heater Control

Steering Wheel

Plate

Speaker

Center Cluster

Finish Panel

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Lower Finish Panel

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12-10

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

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17.3b

1987 and 1988 instrument panel component layout

Chapter 12

12-11

Chassis electrical system

a) Checking the system fuse and/or circuit breaker. b) Checking the switch wiring for damage or loose connections. c) Checking the switches for continuity. d) Removing the door panel(s) and checking the actuator wiring connections for looseness or damage. Inspect the actuator rods (if equipped) to make sure they are not bent, damaged or binding. The actuator can be checked by applying battery power momentarily. A solid click indicates the solenoid is operating properly.

20

Power window system description and checking

The power window system operates the electric motors mounted in the doors which lower and raise the windows. The system consists of the control switches, the motors

17.4b

1987 and 1988 instrument panel retaining bolt and nut locations

battery. Place the cable out of the way so it cannot accidentally come in contact with the negative terminal of the battery, as this would once again allow power into the electrical system of the vehicle. 2 Remove the steering wheel (Chapter 10). 3 Remove the steering column covers, instrument panel finish panels, instrument cluster, heater register ducts, radio, heater controls and any other components which would interfere with removal (see illustrations). 4 Remove the retaining bolts, nuts and screws, unplug any electrical connectors and pull the instrument panel up and to the rear to detach it from the clips on the back (see illustrations). 5 Installation is the reverse of removal.

18

cruise control

system

a) Inspecting the cruise control actuating switches and wiring for broken wires or loose connections. b) Checking the cruise control fuse. c) Checking the hoses in the engine compartment for tight connections, cracked hoses and obvious vacuum leaks. The cruise control system is operated by a vacuum So it is critical that all vacuum switches, hoses and connections be secure.

19

Cruise control system description and checking The

techniques required for diagnosis and repair, this should be left to a dealer or properly equipped shop. However, it is possible for the home mechanic to make simple checks of the wiring and vacuum connections for minor faults which can be easily repaired. These include:

maintains

vehicle speed by means of a vacuum actuated servo motor located in the engine compartment which is connected to the throttle linkage by a cable. The system consists of the servo motor, clutch switch, stoplight switch, control switches, a relay and associated vacuum hoses. Because of the complexity of the cruise control system and the special tools and

Power door lock system description and checking

The power door lock system operates the door lock actuators mounted in each door. The system consists of the switches, actuators and associated wiring. Special tools and techniques are required to fully diagnose this system, and this should be left to a dealer or properly equipped shop. However, it is possible for the home mechanic to make simple checks of the wiring connections and actuators for minor faults which can be easily repaired. These include:

(regulators), glass mechanisms and associated wiring. Because of the complexity of the power window system and the special tools and techniques required for diagnosis and repair, this should be left to a dealer or properly equipped shop. However, it is possible for the home mechanic to make simple checks of the wiring connections and motors for minor faults which can be easily repaired. These include: a) Inspecting the power window actuating switches and wiring for broken wires or loose connections. b) Checking the power window fuse and/or circuit breaker. c) Removing the door panel(s) and checking the power window motor wiring connections for looseness and damage, and

inspecting the glass mechanisms damage which could cause binding.

21

for

Wiring diagrams - general information

Since it isn't possible to include all wiring diagrams for every year covered by this manual, the following diagrams are those that are typical and most commonly needed. Prior to troubleshooting any circuits, check the fuse and circuit breakers (if equipped) to make sure they are in good condition. Make sure the battery is properly charged and has clean, tight cable connections (Chapter 1). When checking the wiring system, make sure that all connectors

broken

are clean, with no

or loose pins. When

connector,

unplugging

a

do not pull on the wires, only on

the connector housings themselves. Refer to the accompanying illustration for the wire color codes applicable to your vehicle.

Chapter 12

12-12

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Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

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Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

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