Haynes Toyota Tundra & Sequoia Automotive Repair Manual 1563926482, 9781563926488

Citation preview

Toyota Tundra & Sequoia saa thru 2005 CAI 2WD and awe models

Haynes Repair Manual Based ona complete teardown and rebuild

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Includes essential information for today’s more complex vehicles

Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2023 with funding from Kahle/Austin Foundation

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Toyota Tundra & Sequoia Automotive

Repair Manual

by Mike Stubblefield and John H Haynes Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers

Models covered:

629.2873 ST93 2000/05 . Stubblefield, Mike. ola Sequ & ra Tund Toyota automotive repair manual

2WD and 4WD Toyota Tundra - 2000 through 2005 Sequoia - 2001 through 2005

(1K4 - 92078) MID-CONTINENT PUBLIC LIBRARY Blue Ridge Branch 9253 Blue Ridge Blvd. Kansas City, MO 64138

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Haynes North America, Inc 861 Lawrence Drive Newbury Park California 91320 USA

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Acknowledgements We are grateful for the help and cooperation of the Toyota Motor Company for their assistance with technical information and certain illustrations. Technical writers who contributed to this project include Bob Henderson, Rob Maddox, Larry Warren and John Wegmann. Technical consultants who contributed to this project include Jamie Sarté and Brad Conn.

© Haynes North America, Inc. 2002, 2007 With permission from J.H. Haynes & Co. Ltd.

A book in the Haynes Automotive Repair Manual Series

Printed in the U.S.A. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN-13: 978-1-56392-648-8 ISBN-10: 1-56392-648-2 Library of Congress Control Number: 2007921499 fe

While every attempt is made to ensure that the information in this manual is correct, no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given. 07-368

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Introductory pages About this manual Introduction to the Toyota Tundra and Sequoia Vehicle identification numbers

Buying parts Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Jacking and towing Booster battery (jump) starting Automotive chemicals and lubricants Conversion factors Safety first! Fraction/decimal/millimeter equivalents Troubleshooting

0-5 0-5 0-6

0-7 0-8 0-14 0-15 0-16 0-17. 0-18 0-19 0-20

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

Chapter 2

PartA

V6 engine

Chapter 2

2A-1

PartB

V8 engine

Chapter 2

1-1

2B-1

Part C

General engine overhaul procedures

2C-1

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

3-1

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

4-1

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

5-1

Chapter 6 Emissions and engine control systems

Chapter7

PartA

Manual transmission

Chapter 7

TA-1

Part B

Automatic transmission

Chapter 7

6-1

7B-1

Part C

Transfer case

7C-1

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveline

8-1

Chapter 9 Brakes

9-1

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

10-1

Chapter 11 Body

11-1

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

Wiring diagrams

12-1

12-24

Haynes author, mechanic and photographer with a 2000 Toyota Tundra

About this manual lts purpose The purpose of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do

so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done, even if you choose to have it done by a dealer service department or a repair shop; it provides information and procedures for routine maintenance and servicing; and it offers diagnostic and repair procedures to follow when trouble occurs. We hope you use the manual to tackle the work yourself. For many simpler jobs, doing it yourself may be quicker than arranging an appointment to get the vehicle into a shop and making the trips to leave it and pick it up. More importantly, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the expense the shop must pass on to you to cover its labor and overhead

costs. An added benefit is the sense of satisfaction and accomplishment that you feel after doing the job yourself.

Using the manual The manual is divided into Chapters. Each Chapter is divided into numbered Sec-

tions, which are headed in bold type between horizontal lines. Each Section consists of consecutively numbered paragraphs. At the beginning of each numbered Section you will be referred to any illustrations which apply to the procedures in that Section. The reference numbers used in illustration captions pinpoint the pertinent Section and the Step within that Section. That is, illustration 3.2 means the illustration refers to Section 3 and Step (or paragraph) 2 within that

Section. Procedures, once described in the text, are not normally repeated. When it’s necessary to refer to another Chapter, the reference will be given as Chapter and Section number. Cross references given without use of the word “Chapter” apply to Sections and/or paragraphs in the same Chapter. For example, “see Section 8” means in the same Chapter. References to the left or right side of the vehicle assume you are sitting in the driver’s seat, facing forward. Even though we have prepared this manual with extreme care, neither the publisher nor the author can accept responsibility for any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

NOTE A Note provides information necessary to properly complete a procedure or information which will make the procedure easier to understand.

CAUTION A Caution provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the Caution is found. Not heeding a Caution can result in damage to the assembly being worked on.

WARNING A Warning provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the Warning is found. Not heeding a Warning can result in personal injury.

Introduction to the Toyota Tundra and Sequoia The Tundra was manufactured beginning in 2000 and is equipped with either a 3.4L V6 engine, a 4.0L V6 engine, or a 4.7 liter V8 engine. The Sequoia was manufactured beginning in 2001 and is only available with the 4.7 liter V8 engine. All engines are equipped with the Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) system. The engine drives the rear wheels through either a manual or automatic transmission via a driveshaft and solid rear axle. A

transfer case and driveshaft are used to drive the front axle on 4WD models. All models are available with either 2WD or 4WD. The front suspension is fully independent: It consists of upper and lower control arms, a stabilizer bar, and integral coil spring/ shock absorber assemblies. A solid axle at the rear is suspended by leaf springs and shock absorbers (Tundra models) or coil springs and shock absorbers (Sequoia models). Sequoia models have four rear suspension arms (two

upper and two lower arms) and a lateral control rod. The steering gear is a rack-and-pinion type and is connected to the steering knuckles by tie-rods. The front brakes are disc type on all models. The rear brakes on Tundra models are drum type; Sequoia models have rear disc brakes. Power assist is standard on all models. Some models are equipped with antilock brakes.

Vehicle identification numbers Modifications are a continuing and unpublicized process in vehicle manufacturing. Since spare parts manuals and lists are compiled on a numerical basis, the individual

vehicle numbers are essential to correctly identify the component required.

Vehicle Identification Number

(VIN)

This very important identification number is stamped on a plate attached to the left side of the dashboard just inside the windshield on

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the driver's side of the vehicle (see illustration). The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certificate of Title and Registration. It contains information such as where and when the vehicle was manufactured, the model year and the body style. Counting from the left, the engine code is the eighth digit and the model year code is the tenth digit.

Engine serial number On V6 engines, the engine serial number is located on the left side of the engine block, near the oil filter (see illustration). On V8 engines it’s located on the top front of the engine block, between the cylinder heads (see illustration).

Model year codes:

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2002 2003 2004 2005

The engine serial number on the V6 engine is stamped onto a pad on the left side of the engine block, above the oil filter cartridge

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The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is visible through the driver’s side of the windshield

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The engine serial number on the V8 engine is stamped onto a pad at the top front of the engine block, just below the front of the intake manifold

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The manufacturer’s certification label is affixed to the driver’s side door jamb

Vehicle identification numbers

oe The Vehicle Emissions Control Label (VECI) is located on the underside of the hood

Manufacturer Certification label The Manufacturer Certification label is affixed to the front door pillar. The plate contains the name of the manufacturer, the month and year of production, the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the certification statement (see illustration).

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The identification number on automatic transmissions is stamped into a plate located on the side of the transmission

Vehicle Emissions Control

Information (VECI) label The emissions control information label is found under the hood. This label contains information on the emissions control equipment installed on the vehicle, as well as tuneup specifications (see illustration).

Transfer case and transmission identification

number sion case sion (see

The transfer case and manual transmisidentification number is stamped into the of the component. Automatic transmisnumbers are stamped onto ID plates illustration).

Buying parts Replacement parts are available from many sources, which generally fall into one of two categories - authorized dealer parts departments and independent retail auto parts stores. Our advice concerning these parts is as follows: Retail auto parts stores: Good auto parts stores will stock frequently needed components which wear out relatively fast, such as clutch components, exhaust systems, brake parts, tune-up parts, etc. These stores often supply new or reconditioned parts on

an exchange basis, which can save a considerable amount of money. Discount auto parts stores are often very good places to buy materials and parts needed for general vehicle maintenance such as oil, grease, filters, spark plugs, belts, touch-up paint, bulbs, etc. They also usually sell tools and general accessories, have convenient hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home. Authorized dealer parts department: This is the best source for parts which are

unique to the vehicle and not generally available elsewhere (such as major engine parts, transmission parts, trim pieces, etc.).

Warranty information: \f the vehicle is still covered under warranty, be sure that any replacement parts purchased - regardless of the source - do not invalidate the warranty! To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, have engine and chassis numbers available and, if possible, take the old parts along for positive identification.

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Maintenance techniques There are a number of techniques involved in maintenance and repair that will be referred to throughout this manual. Application of these techniques will enable the home mechanic to be more efficient, better organized and capable of performing the vari-

removed from an assembly, should always be replaced exactly as removed. Replace any damaged washers with new ones. Never use a lockwasher on any soft metal surface (such as aluminum), thin sheet metal or plastic.

Most automotive machine shops can perform this task, as well as other repair procedures, such as the repair of threaded holes that have been stripped out. Flat washers and lockwashers, when

ous tasks properly, which will ensure that the repair job is thorough and complete.

Fasteners Fasteners

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together. There are a few things to keep in mind when working with fasteners. Almost all of them use a locking device of some type, either a lockwasher, locknut, locking tab or thread adhesive. All threaded fasteners should be clean and straight, with undamaged threads and undamaged corners on the hex head where the wrench fits. Develop the habit of replacing all damaged nuts and bolts with new ones. Special locknuts with nylon or fiber inserts can only be used once. If they are removed, they lose their locking ability and must be replaced with new ones. Rusted nuts and bolts should be treated with a penetrating fluid to ease removal and prevent breakage. Some mechanics use turpentine in a spout-type oil can, which works

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Grade 8

Bolt strength marking (standard/SAE/USS; bottom - metric)

Grade

Identification

Grade

Identification

Hex Nut Grade 5

Hex Nut 4 % :

quite well. After applying the rust penetrant,

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let it work for a few minutes before trying to loosen the nut or bolt. Badly rusted fasteners may have to be chiseled or sawed off or removed with a special nut breaker, available at tool stores. If a bolt or stud breaks off in an assembly, it can be drilled and removed with a special tool commonly available for this purpose.

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Metric hex nut strength markings

Metric stud strength markings 00-1 HAYNES

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Fastener sizes For a number of reasons, automobile manufacturers are making wider and wider

Metric thread sizes

use of metric fasteners. Therefore, it is important to be able to tell the difference between standard (sometimes called U.S. or SAE) and metric hardware, since they cannot be interchanged. All bolts, whether standard or metric, are sized according to diameter, thread pitch and length. For example, a standard

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bolt is 1/2 inch in diameter, has 13 threads per inch and is 1 inch long. An M12 - 1.75 x 25 metric bolt is 12 mm in diameter, has a thread pitch of 1.75 mm (the distance between threads) and is 25 mm long. The two bolts are

nearly identical, and easily confused, but they are not interchangeable. In addition to the differences in diameter, thread pitch and length, metric and standard bolts can also be distinguished by examining

the bolt heads. To begin with, the distance across the flats on a standard bolt head is measured in inches, while the same dimension on a metric bolt is sized in millimeters (the same is true for nuts). As a result, a standard wrench should not be used on a metric bolt and a metric wrench should not be used on a standard bolt. Also, most standard bolts have slashes radiating out from the center of the head to denote the grade or strength of the bolt, which is an indication of the amount of torque that can be applied to it. The

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9 to 12

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7 to 10 17 to 24 30 to 44 34 to 47

6 to9 12 to 18 14 to 20 22 to 32

9 to 12 17 to 24 19 to 27 30 to 43

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37 to 51

40 to 55 40 to 60

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greater the number of slashes, the greater the strength of the bolt. Grades 0 through 5 are commonly used on automobiles. Metric bolts have a property class (grade) number, rather than a slash, molded into their heads to indi-

cate bolt strength. In this case, the higher the number, the stronger the bolt. Property class numbers 8.8, 9.8 and 10.9 are commonly used on automobiles. Strength markings can also be used to distinguish standard hex nuts from metric hex nuts. Many standard nuts have dots stamped into one side, while metric nuts are marked with a number. The greater the number of dots, or the higher the number, the greater the

strength of the nut. Metric studs are also marked on their ends according to property class (grade). Larger studs are numbered (the same as metric bolts), while smaller studs carry a geometric code to denote grade. It should be noted that many fasteners, especially Grades 0 through 2, have no distinguishing marks on them. When such is the case, the only way to determine whether it is standard or metric is to measure the thread pitch or cornpare it to a known fastener of the same size. Standard fasteners are often referred to as SAE, as opposed to metric. However, it should be noted that SAE technically refers to a non-metric fine thread fastener only. Coarse thread non-metric fasteners are referred to as USS sizes. Since fasteners of the same size (both standard and metric) may have different strength ratings, be sure to reinstall any bolts,

00-2 HAYNES

Standard (SAE and USS) bolt dimensions/ grade marks Grade marks (bolt strength) Length (in inches) Thread pitch (number of threads per inch) we) yr Nominal diameter (in inches)

studs or nuts removed from your vehicle in their original locations. Also, when replacing a fastener with a new one, make sure that the new one has a strength rating equal to or greater than the original.

Tightening sequences and procedures Most threaded fasteners should be tightened to a specific torque value (torque is the twisting force applied to a threaded component such as a nut or bolt). Overtightening the fastener can weaken it and cause it to break, while undertightening can cause it to eventually come loose. Bolts, screws and studs, depending on the material they are made

Metric bolt dimensions/grade marks P_ L_ T D

Property class (bolt strength) Length (in millimeters) Thread pitch (distance between threads in millimeters) Diameter

of and their thread diameters, have specific torque values, many of which are noted in the Specifications at the beginning of each Chapter. Be sure to follow the torque recommendations closely. For fasteners not assigned a specific torque, a general torque value chart is presented here as a guide. These torque values are for dry (unlubricated) fasteners threaded into steel or cast iron (not aluminum). As was previously mentioned, the size and grade of a fastener determine the amount of torque that can safely be applied to it. The figures listed here are approximate for Grade 2 and Grade 3 fasteners. Higher grades can tolerate higher torque values. Fasteners laid out in a pattern, such as cylinder head bolts, oil pan bolts, differential cover bolts, etc., must be loosened or tight-

0-10

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Dial indicator set

Micrometer set

ened in sequence to avoid warping the component. This sequence will normally be shown in the appropriate Chapter. If a specific pattern is not given, the following procedures can be used to prevent warping. Initially, the bolts or nuts should be assembled finger-tight only. Next, they should be tightened one full turn each, in a crisscross or diagonal pattern. After each one has been tightened one full turn, return to the first one and tighten them all one-half turn, following the same pattern. Finally, tighten each of them one-quarter turn at a time until each fastener has been tightened to the proper torque. To loosen and remove the fasteners, the procedure would be reversed.

Component disassembly Component disassembly should be done with care and purpose to help ensure that the parts go back together properly. Always keep track of the sequence in which parts are removed. Make note of special characteristics or marks on parts that can be installed more than one way, such as a grooved thrust washer on a shaft. It is a good idea to lay the disassembled parts out on a clean surface in the order that they were removed. It may also be helpful to make sketches or take instant photos of components before removal. When removing fasteners from a component, keep track of their locations. Sometimes threading a bolt back in a part, or putting the washers and nut back on a stud, can prevent mix-ups later. If nuts and bolts cannot be returned to their original locations, they should be kept in a compartmented box or a series of small boxes. A cupcake or muffin tin is ideal for this purpose, since each cavity can hold the bolts and nuts from a particular area (i.e. oil pan bolts, valve cover bolts, engine mount bolts, etc.). A pan of this type is especially helpful when working on assemblies with very small parts, such as the carburetor, alternator, valve train or interior dash and trim pieces. The cavities can be marked with paint or tape

to identify the contents. Whenever wiring looms, harnesses or connectors are separated, it is a good idea to identify the two halves with numbered pieces of masking tape so they can be easily reconnected.

Gasket sealing surfaces

Hose removal tips

Throughout any vehicle, gaskets are used to seal the mating surfaces between two parts and keep lubricants, fluids, vacuum or pressure contained in an assembly. Many times these gaskets are coated with a liquid or paste-type gasket sealing compound before assembly. Age, heat and pressure can sometimes cause the two parts to stick together so tightly that they are very difficult to separate. Often, the assembly can be loosened by striking it with a soft-face hammer near the mating surfaces. A regular hammer can be used if a block of wood is placed between the hammer and the part. Do not hammer on cast parts or parts that could be easily damaged. With any particularly stubborn part, always recheck to make sure that every fastener has been removed. Avoid using a screwdriver or bar to pry apart an assembly, as they can easily mar the gasket sealing surfaces of the parts, which must remain smooth. If prying is absolutely necessary, use an old broom handle, but keep in mind that extra clean up will be necessary if the wood splinters. After the parts are separated, the old gasket must be carefully removed and the gasket surfaces cleaned. If you’re working on cast iron or aluminum parts, stubborn gasket material can be soaked with rust penetrant or treated with a special chemical to soften it so it can be easily scraped off. Caution: Never use gasket removal solutions or caustic chemicals on plastic or other composite components. A scraper can be fashioned from a piece of copper tubing by flattening and sharpening one end. Copper is recommended because it is usually softer than the surfaces to be scraped, which reduces the chance of gouging the part. Some gaskets can be removed with a wire brush, but regardless of the method used, the mating surfaces must be left clean and smooth. If for some reason the gasket surface is gouged, then a gas-

Warning: /f the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, do not disconnect any of the A/C hoses without first having the system depressurized by a dealer service department or a service station.

ket sealer thick enough to fill scratches will have to be used during reassembly of the components. For most applications, a nondrying (or semi-drying) gasket sealer should be used.

Hose removal precautions closely parallel gasket removal precautions. Avoid scratching or gouging the surface that the hose mates against or the connection may leak. This is especially true for radiator hoses. Because of various chemical reactions, the rubber in hoses can bond itself to the metal spigot that the hose fits over. To remove a hose, first loosen the hose clamps that secure it to the spigot. Then, with slip-joint pliers, grab the hose at the clamp and rotate it around the spigot. Work it back and forth until it is completely free, then pull it off. Silicone

or other lubricants will ease removal if they can be applied between the hose and the out-

side of the spigot. Apply the same lubricant to the inside of the hose and the outside of the spigot to simplify installation. As a last resort (and if the hose is to be replaced with a new one anyway), the rubber can be slit with a knife and the hose peeled from the spigot. If this must be done, be careful that the metal connection is not damaged. If a hose clamp is broken or damaged, do not reuse it. Wire-type clamps usually weaken with age, so it is a good idea to replace them with screw-type clamps whenever a hose is removed.

Tools A selection of good tools is a basic requirement for anyone who plans to maintain and repair his or her own vehicle. For the owner who has few tools, the initial investment might seem high, but when compared to the spiraling costs of professional auto maintenance and repair, it is a wise one. To help the owner decide which tools are

needed to perform the tasks detailed in this manual, the following tool lists are offered: Maintenance and minor repair, Repair/overhaul and Special. The newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the maintenance and minor repair tool kit, which is adequate for the

.

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Hand-operated vacuum pump

Compression gauge with spark plug hole adapter

0-11

Timing light

General purpose puller

Hydraulic lifter removal tool

Valve spring compressor

Valve spring compressor

Ridge reamer

Piston ring groove cleaning tool

Ring removal/installation tool

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

0-12

Cylinder hone

Torque angle gauge

Clutch plate alignment tool

Tap and die set

simpler jobs performed on a vehicle. Then, as confidence and experience grow, the owner

Hacksaw and assortment of blades

large sockets. Ideally, however, the mechanic should have a 3/8-inch drive set and a 1/2-

can tackle more difficult tasks, buying additional tools as they are needed. Eventually the

Tire pressure gauge Grease gun Oil can

basic kit will be expanded into the repair and overhaul tool set. Over a period of time, the

Fine emery cloth Wire brush

Reversible ratchet Extension - 10 inch

experienced do-it-yourselfer will assemble a tool set complete enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from

Battery post and cable cleaning tool Oil filter wrench Funnel (medium size)

Universal joint Torque wrench (same size drive as sockets)

the special category when it is felt that the expense is justified by the frequency of use.

Safety goggles Jackstands (2) Drain pan Note: /f basic tune-ups are going to be part of routine maintenance, it will be necessary to purchase a good quality stroboscopic timing light and combination tachometer/dwell meter. Although they are included in the list of special tools, it is mentioned here because they are absolutely necessary for tuning most vehicles properly.

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit The tools in this list should be considered the minimum required for performance of routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair work. We recommend the purchase of combination wrenches (box-end and openend combined in one wrench). While more expensive than open end wrenches, they offer the advantages of both types of wrench. Combination wrench set (1/4-inch to 1 inch or 6 mm to 19 mm) Adjustable wrench, 8 inch Spark plug wrench with rubber insert Spark plug gap adjusting tool

Feeler gauge set Brake bleeder wrench Standard screwdriver (5/16-inch x 6 inch) Phillips screwdriver (No. 2 x 6 inch)

Combination pliers - 6 inch

Repair and overhaul tool set These tools are essential for anyone who plans to perform major repairs and are in addition to those in the maintenance and minor repair tool kit. Included is a comprehensive set of sockets which, though expensive, are invaluable because of their versatility, especially when various extensions and drives are available. We recommend the 1/2-inch drive over the 3/8-inch drive. Although the larger drive is bulky and more expensive, it has the capacity of accepting a very wide range of

inch drive set. Socket set(s)

Ball peen hammer - 8 ounce Soft-face hammer (plastic/rubber) Standard screwdriver (1/4-inch x 6 inch) Standard screwdriver (stubby 5/16-inch) Phillips screwdriver (No. 3 x 8 inch) Phillips screwdriver (stubby - No. 2) Pliers - vise grip Pliers - lineman’s Pliers - needle nose Pliers - snap-ring (internal and external)

Cold chisel - 1/2-inch Scribe Scraper (made from flattened copper tubing) Centerpunch Pin punches (1/16, 1/8, 3/16-inch) Steel rule/straightedge - 12 inch

Allen wrench set (1/8 to 3/8-inch or 4 mm to 10 mm) A selection of files Wire brush (large) Jackstands (second set) Jack (scissor or hydraulic type)

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Note: Another tool which is often useful is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of 3/8-inch

and a set of good quality drill bits.

Special tools The tools in this list include those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturer’s instructions. Unless these tools will be used frequently, it is not very economical to purchase many of them. A consideration would be to split the cost and use

between yourself and a friend or friends. In addition, most of these tools can be obtained from a tool rental shop on a temporary basis. This list primarily contains only those tools and instruments widely available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer for distribution to dealer service departments. Occasionally, references to the manufacturer’s special tools are included in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the special tool is offered. However,

sometimes there is no alternative to their use. Where this is the case, and the tool cannot be purchased or borrowed, the work should be turned over to the dealer service department or an automotive repair shop. Valve spring compressor Piston ring groove cleaning tool Piston ring compressor Piston ring installation tool Cylinder compression gauge Cylinder ridge reamer Cylinder surfacing hone Cylinder bore gauge Micrometers and/or dial calipers Hydraulic lifter removal tool Balljoint separator Universal-type puller Impact screwdriver Dial indicator set Stroboscopic timing light (inductive pick-up) Hand operated vacuum/pressure pump Tachometer/dwell meter Universal electrical multimeter Cable hoist Brake spring removal and installation tools Floor jack

Buying tools For the do-it-yourselfer who is just starting to get involved in vehicle maintenance and repair, there are a number of options available when purchasing tools. If maintenance and minor repair is the extent of the work to be done, the purchase of individual tools is satisfactory. If, on the other hand, extensive work is planned, it would be a good idea to purchase a modest tool set from one of the large retail chain stores. A set can usually be bought at a substantial savings over the individual tool prices, and they often come with a tool box. As additional tools are needed, add-on sets,

individual tools and a larger tool box can be purchased to expand the tool selection. Building a tool set gradually allows the cost of the tools to be spread over a longer period of time and gives the mechanic the freedom to choose only those tools that will actually be used. Tool stores will often be the only source of some of the special tools that are needed, but regardless of where tools are bought, try to avoid cheap ones, especially when buying screwdrivers and sockets, because they won't last very long. The expense involved in replacing cheap tools will eventually be greater than the initial cost of quality tools.

Care and maintenance of tools Good tools are expensive, so it makes sense to treat them with respect. Keep them clean and in usable condition and store them properly when not in use. Always wipe off any dirt, grease or metal chips before putting them away. Never leave tools lying around in the work area. Upon completion of a job, always check closely under the hood for tools that may have been left there so they won't get lost during a test drive. Some tools, such as screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches and sockets, can be hung on a panel mounted on the garage or workshop wall, while others should be kept in a tool box or tray. Measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc. must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged by weather or impact from other tools. When tools are used with care and stored properly, they will last a very long time. Even with the best of care, though, tools will

wear out if used frequently. When a tool is damaged or worn out, replace it. Subsequent

jobs will be safer and more enjoyable if you do.

How to repair damaged threads Sometimes, the internal threads of a nut or bolt hole can become stripped, usually from overtightening. Stripping threads is an all-toocommon occurrence, especially when working with aluminum parts, because aluminum is so soft that it easily strips out. Usually, external or internal threads are only partially stripped. After they’ve been cleaned up with a tap or die, they'll still work. Sometimes, however, threads are badly damaged. When this happens, you’ve got three choices: 1) Drill and tap the hole to the next suitable oversize and install a larger diameter bolt, screw or stud. 2) Drill and tap the hole to accept a threaded plug, then drill and tap the plug to the original screw size. You can also buy a plug already threaded to the original size. Then you simply drill a hole to the specified size, then run the threaded plug into the hole with a bolt and jam nut.

0-13

Once the plug is fully seated, remove the jam nut and bolt. 3) The third method uses a patented thread repair kit like Heli-Coil or Slimsert. These easy-to-use kits are designed to repair damaged threads in straight-through holes and blind holes. Both are available as kits which can handle a variety of sizes and thread patterns. Drill the hole, then tap it with the special included tap. Install the Heli-Coil and the hole is back to its original diameter and thread pitch. Regardless of which method you use, be sure to proceed calmly and carefully. A little impatience or carelessness during one of these relatively simple procedures can ruin your whole day’s work and cost you a bundle if you wreck an expensive part.

Working facilities Not to be overlooked when discussing tools is the workshop. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some sort of suitable work area is essential. It is understood, and appreciated, that many home mechanics do not have a good workshop or garage available, and end up removing an engine or doing major repairs outside. It is recommended, however, that the overhaul or repair be completed under the cover of a roof. A clean, flat workbench or table of comfortable working height is an absolute necessity. The workbench should be equipped with a vise that has a jaw opening of at least four inches. As mentioned previously, some clean, dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as the lubricants, fluids, cleaning solvents, etc. which soon become necessary. Sometimes waste oil and fluids, drained from the engine or cooling system during normal maintenance or repairs, present a disposal problem. To avoid pouring them on the ground or into a sewage system, pour the used fluids into large containers, seal them with caps and take them to an authorized disposal site or recycling center. Plastic jugs, such as old antifreeze containers, are ideal for this purpose. Always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean rags available. Old towels are excellent for mopping up spills. Many mechanics use rolls of paper towels for most work because they are readily available and disposable. To help keep the area under the vehicle clean, a large cardboard box can be cut open and flattened to protect the garage or shop floor. Whenever working over a painted surface, such as when leaning over a fender to service something under the hood, always cover it with an old blanket or bedspread to protect the finish. Vinyl covered pads, made especially for this purpose, are available at auto parts stores.

0-14

Jacking and towing Jacking The jack supplied with the vehicle should only be used for raising the vehicle when changing a tire or placing jackstands under

the frame. Warning: Never work under the vehicle or start the engine while this jack is being used as the only means of support. The vehicle should be on level ground with the hazard flashers on, the wheels blocked, the parking brake applied and the transmission in Park (automatic) or Reverse (manual). If a tire is being changed, loosen the lug nuts one-half turn and leave them in place until the wheel is raised off the ground. Place the jack under the vehicle (see illustrations): Front: Under the frame rail, where the crossmember is attached.

Rear: Under the rear axle housing.

7

Front jacking point

Operate the jack with a slow, smooth motion until the wheel is raised off the ground. Remove the lug nuts, pull off the wheel, install the spare and thread the lug nuts back on with the beveled sides facing in. Tighten them snugly, but wait until the vehicle is lowered to tighten them completely. Lower the vehicle, remove the jack and tighten the nuts (if loosened or removed) in a criss-cross pattern.

Towing As a general rule, the vehicle should be towed with professional towing equipment. If towed from the front, the rear wheels should be placed on a towing dolly. If a 4WD model is towed from the rear, the front wheels should be placed on a towing dolly; if a dolly is not available, turn the ignition key to the ACC

position, place the transfer case in the 2H position and the transmission in Neutral. When a vehicle is towed with the rear wheels raised, the steering wheel must be clamped in the straight ahead position with a special device designed for use during towing. The ignition key must not be in the LOCK

position, since the steering lock mechanism isn’t strong enough to hold the front wheels straight while towing. Equipment specifically designed for towing should be used. It should be attached to the main structural members of the vehicle, not the bumpers or brackets. Safety is a major

consideration when towing and all applicable state and local laws must be obeyed. A safety chain system must be used at all times. Remember that power steering and power brakes will not work with the engine off.

0-15

Booster battery (jump) starting Observe these precautions when using a booster battery to start a vehicle:

Dead battery

Booster battery

a) Before connecting the booster battery, make sure the ignition switch is in the Off position. b) Turn off the lights, heater and other electrical loads. c) Your eyes should be shielded. Safety goggles are a good idea. d) Make sure the booster battery is the same voltage as the dead one in the vehicle, e) The two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other! f) Make sure the transaxle is in Neutral (manual) or Park (automatic). g) Ifthe booster battery is not a maintenance-free type, remove the vent caps and lay a cloth over the vent holes. Connect the red jumper cable to the positive (+) terminals of each battery (see illustration). Connect one end of the black jumper cable to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery. The other end of this cable should be connected to a good ground on the vehicle to be started, such as a bolt or bracket on the body. Start the engine using the booster battery, then, with the engine running at idle speed, disconnect the jumper cables in the reverse order of connection.

7

Make the booster battery cable connections in the numerical order shown (note that the negative cable of the booster battery is NOT attached to the negative terminal of the dead battery)

0-16

Automotive chemicals and lubricants A number of automotive chemicals and lubricants are available for use during vehicle maintenance and repair. They include a wide variety of products ranging from cleaning solvents and degreasers to lubricants and protective sprays for rubber, plastic and vinyl.

Cleaners Carburetor cleaner and choke cleaner is a strong solvent for gum, varnish and carbon. Most carburetor cleaners leave a dry-type lubricant film which will not harden or gum up. Because of this film it is not recommended for use on electrical components. Brake system cleaner is used to

remove brake dust, grease and brake fluid from the brake system, where clean surfaces are absolutely necessary. It leaves no residue and often eliminates brake squeal caused by contaminants. Electrical cleaner removes oxidation, corrosion and carbon deposits from electrical contacts, restoring full current flow. It can also be used to clean spark plugs, carburetor jets, voltage regulators and other parts where an oil-free surface is desired. Demoisturants remove water and moisture from electrical components such as alternators, voltage regulators, electrical connectors and fuse blocks. They are non-conductive and non-corrosive. Degreasers are heavy-duty solvents used to remove grease from the outside of the engine and from chassis components. They can be sprayed or brushed on and, depending on the type, are rinsed off either with water or

solvent.

Lubricants Motor oil is the |ubricant formulated for use in engines. It normally contains a wide variety of additives to prevent corrosion and reduce foaming and wear. Motor oil comes in various weights (viscosity ratings) from 0 to 50. The recommended weight of the oil depends on the season, temperature and the demands on the engine. Light oil is used in cold climates and under light load conditions. Heavy oil is used in hot climates and where high loads are encountered. Multi-viscosity oils are designed to have characteristics of both light and heavy oils and are available in a number of weights from 5W-20 to 20W-50. Gear oil is designed to be used in differentials, manual transmissions and other areas where high-temperature lubrication is required. Chassis and wheel bearing grease is a heavy grease used where increased loads and friction are encountered, such as for wheel bearings, balljoints, tie-rod ends and universal joints.

High-temperature wheel bearing grease is designed to withstand the extreme

temperatures encountered by wheel bearings in disc brake equipped vehicles. It usually contains molybdenum disulfide (moly), which is a dry-type lubricant. White grease is a heavy grease for metal-to-metal applications where water is a problem. White grease stays soft under both low and high temperatures (usually from -100 to +190-degrees F), and will not wash off or dilute in the presence of water. Assembly lube is a special extreme pressure lubricant, usually containing moly, used to lubricate high-load parts (such as main and rod bearings and cam lobes) for initial start-up of a new engine. The assembly lube lubricates the parts without being squeezed out or washed away until the engine oiling system begins to function. Silicone lubricants are used to protect rubber, plastic, vinyl and nylon parts. Graphite lubricants are used where oils cannot be used due to contamination problems, such as in locks. The dry graphite will lubricate metal parts while remaining uncon-

taminated by dirt, water, oil or acids. It is electrically conductive and will not foul electrical contacts in locks such as the ignition switch. Moly penetrants loosen and lubricate frozen, rusted and corroded fasteners and prevent future rusting or freezing. Heat-sink grease is a special electrically non-conductive grease that is used for mounting electronic ignition modules where it is essential that heat is transferred away from the module.

Sealants RTV sealant is one of the most widely used gasket compounds. Made from silicone, RTV is air curing, it seals, bonds, waterproofs, fills surface irregularities, remains flexible, doesn’t shrink, is relatively easy to remove, and is used as a supplementary sealer with almost all low and medium temperature gaskets. Anaerobic sealant is much like RTV in that it can be used either to seal gaskets or to form gaskets by itself. It remains flexible, is solvent resistant and fills surface imperfections. The difference between an anaerobic sealant and an RTV-type sealant is in the curing. RTV cures when exposed to air, while an anaerobic sealant cures only in the absence of air. This means that an anaerobic sealant cures only after the assembly of parts, sealing them together. Thread and pipe sealant is used for sealing hydraulic and pneumatic fittings and vacuum lines. It is usually made from a Teflon compound, and comes in a spray, a paint-on liquid and as a wrap-around tape.

Chemicals Anti-seize

compound

prevents

seiz-

ing, galling, cold welding, rust and corrosion in fasteners. High-temperature ant-seize, usually made with copper and graphite lubricants, is used for exhaust system and exhaust manifold bolts. Anaerobic locking compounds are used to keep fasteners from vibrating or working loose and cure only after installation, in the absence of air. Medium strength locking compound is used for small nuts, bolts and screws that may be removed later. Highstrength locking compound is for large nuts, bolts and studs which aren’t removed on a regular basis. Oil additives range from viscosity index improvers to chemical treatments that claim to reduce internal engine friction. It should be noted that most oil manufacturers caution

against using additives with their oils. Gas additives perform several functions, depending on their chemical makeup. ’ They usually contain solvents that help dissolve gum and varnish that build up on carburetor, fuel injection and intake parts. They also serve to break down carbon deposits that form on the inside surfaces of the combustion chambers. Some additives contain upper cylinder lubricants for valves and piston rings, and others contain chemicals to remove condensation from the gas tank.

Miscellaneous Brake fluid is specially formulated hydraulic fluid that can withstand the heat and pressure encountered in brake systems. Care must be taken so this fluid does not come in contact with painted surfaces or plastics. An opened container should always be resealed to prevent contamination by water or dirt. Weatherstrip adhesive is used to bond weatherstripping around doors, windows and trunk lids. It is sometimes used to attach trim pieces. Undercoating is a petroleum-based, tar-like substance that is designed to protect metal surfaces on the underside of the vehicle from corrosion. It also acts as a sound-deadening agent by insulating the bottom of the vehicle. Waxes and polishes are used to help protect painted and plated surfaces from the weather. Different types of paint may require the use of different types of wax and polish. Some polishes utilize a chemical or abrasive cleaner to help remove the top layer of oxidized (dull) paint on older vehicles. In recent years many non-wax polishes that contain a wide variety of chemicals such as polymers

and silicones have been introduced. These non-wax polishes are usually easier to apply and last longer than conventional waxes and polishes.

0-17

Conversion

factors

Length (distance) Inches (in) Feet (ft)

X X

25.4 0.305

=Millimeters (mm) = Meters (m)

Miles

X

1.609

= Kilometers (km)

0.0394 3.281 0.621 x KX

= Feet (ft)

0.061 1.76 0.88 0.833 1.057 0.22 0.833 0.264 KK x KKK

= Imperial pints (Imp pt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) = US quarts (US qt) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) Imperial gallons (Imp gal)

Volume (capacity) Cubic inches (cu in; in’)

X 16.387 = Cubic centimeters (cc; cm’)

Imperial pints (Imp pt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) US quarts (US qt) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) US gallons (US gal)

X 0.568 X1137 X 1.201 X 0.946 X 4.546 X 1.201 X 3.785

= Liters (I) “= Liters" (t) =US quarts (US qt) = Liters (I) = Liters (|) =US gallons (US gal) = Liters (I)

X X

28.35 0.454

=Grams (g) =Kilograms (kg)

X X X

0.278 4.448 0.1.

X

0.070

Inches (in) = Miles

= Cubic inches (cu in; in’)

= US gallons (US gal)

Mass (weight) Ounces (oz) Pounds (Ib)

0.035 2.205

= Ounces (oz)

=Newtons (N) =Newtons (N) =Kilograms-force (kgf; kg)

3:6 0.225 9.81

= Ounces-force (ozf; oz) = Pounds-force (Ibf; Ib)

= Kilograms-force per square

14.223

= Pounds-force

x

= Pounds

(Ib)

Force Ounces-force (ozf; oz) Pounds-force (Ibf; |b) Newtons (N)

= Newtons

(N)

Pressure Pounds-force

per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)

centimeter (kgf/cm?; kg/cm?)

Pounds-force per square inch

X

0.068

=Atmospheres

14.696

(atm)

= Pounds-force

per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?) Pounds-force

per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)

per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)

xX

0.069

14.5

= Bars

= Pounds-force

per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)

Pounds-force per square inch

X

6.895

0.145

=Kilopascals (kPa)

= Pounds-force

per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?) Kilopascals (kPa)

X

0.01

=Kilograms-force

X

1.152

= Kilograms-force centimeter

0.113

(kgf cm; kg cm) =Newton meters (Nm)

98.1

per square

= Kilopascals (kPa)

centimeter (kgf/cm?; kg/cm?)

Torque (moment of force) Pounds-force

inches

(Ibf in; Ib in) Pounds-force inches

X

0.868 8.85

= Pounds-force (Ibf in; Ib in) = Pounds-force

(Ibf in; Ib in) Pounds-force

inches inches

(Ibf in; Ib in) inches

X

0.083

12

= Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft)

(Ibf in; Ib in) Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft)

X

0.138

= Pounds-force

inches

7.233

(Ibf in; Ib in) = Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft)

&X xX x Ss oR sg Xa OS Ke ee MT

0.738 9.804

= Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft) = Newton meters (Nm)

X


-

Door Hinge ee

Door Belt Moulding

~®

Door Check

a ~~

Cable Protection

Inner Weatherstrip

of removal.

Refer to illustration 20.8 8 Remove the inner and outer weather-

Front door

Warning: Safety glasses and gloves should be worn when performing this procedure. 1 Lower the glass fully in the door. On

Installation

Tighten all fasteners securely.

Window Regulator

- «= ®

oe

~ @@

ee

Inside Handle

Pex Door Trim

20.8 Exploded view of a typical Sequoia rear door assembly

Inside Handle Bezel

Courtesy Light

Ash Tray

Service Hole Cover

Chapter 11

11-16

20.14

Body

20.15

Remove the two access door window

Remove the four nuts and detach the window

from the access door (Tundra)

opener latch bolts (Tundra)

21.4 To remove the window regulator, remove the bolts, lower the regulator and remove it through the access hole (Tundra model shown, other models similar)

22.5a

To detach the latch assembly from the driver’s side door, remove three screws and one bolt

22.5b To remove the Tundra access door upper latch, first remove the bolts and disconnect the control rods and connectors

22.7 Note how the control rods (A) are connected to the key lock cylinder and to the outside door handle, then disconnect them and remove the bolts (B)

Chapter 11

22.11

Remove the inside handle retaining bolt

Tundra access door Refer to illustrations 20.14 and 20.15 14 Remove the window latch screws (see illustration). 15

Support the window, remove the retain-

ing nuts and detach the window glass from the door (see illustration). 16 Installation is the reverse of removal.

21

Door window regulator - removal and installation

Refer to illustration 21.4 1 On models equipped with power windows and door locks, disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal. 2 Remove the door trim panel and water shield (see Section 13). 3 Remove the door glass (see Section 20). 4 To remove the window regulator, unplug the electrical connector from the motor (power windows), remove the retaining bolts (see illustration) and maneuver the regulator out through the access hole. 5 Installation is the reverse of removal. Lubricate all regulator rollers with multipurpose grease. Tighten all fasteners securely. On rear doors, tighten the regulator bolts in a criss-cross pattern.

22

11-17

Body

22.12

4 Onmodels with power door the electrical connector from the 5 Remove the latch retaining illustrations) and remove the bly. 6 Installation is the reverse Tighten the screws securely.

Detach the cables from the back of the inside handle

locks, unplug door latch. screws (see latch assem-

(see illustration). 12 Disengage the handle-to-latch cables and remove the handle from the door (see illustration). 13 Installation is the reverse of removal.

of removal.

Outside handle and key lock cylinder Refer to illustration 22.7 7 Note how the control rods are connected to the outside door handle and to the key lock cylinder (see illustration). Disengage the link(s) from the handle and/or the lock cylinder. 8 Remove the outside handle/key lock cylinder retaining bolts and detach the handle from the door. 9 Installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten the bolts securely.

Inside door handle Refer to illustrations 22.11 and 22.12

10

Remove the door trim panel (see Section

11. and

Remove the handle retaining screw disengage the handle from the door

23

Steering column covers removal and installation

Refer to illustration 23.4

Warning: The models covered by this manual are equipped with Supplemental Restraint Systems (SRS), more commonly known as airbags. Always disable the airbag system before working in the vicinity of any airbag system components to avoid the possibility of accidental deployment of the airbag(s), which could cause personal injury (see Chapter 12). 1 Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2 Disable the airbag system (see Chapter 12). 3 Remove the steering wheel (see Chapter 10). 4 Remove the steering column cover screws (see illustration). 5 Separate the cover halves and remove them from the column. 6 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Door latch, lock cylinder and handles - removal and installation

1 On models equipped with power windows and door locks, disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal. 2 Remove the door trim panel and the plastic water shield (see Section 13).

Door latch Refer to illustrations 22.5a and 22.5b

3

Using a flashlight, note how the control

rods are connected to the door latch. Disengage the rod(s) from the lock.

23.4 Remove the three screws and

detach the steering pean pat

EE

x

column cover halves

11-18

Chapter 11

Body

24.4 Remove the retaining bolts and lift the console out

25.2

24

Remove the lower left finish panel screws

25.3

Remove the cluster bezel screws

Console - removal and

are equipped with Supplemental

installation

Systems (SRS), more commonly known as airbags. Always disable the airbag system before working in the vicinity of any airbag system components to avoid the possibility of accidental deployment of the airbag(s), which

Refer to illustrations 24.3 and 24.4 Warning: The models covered by this manual

Restraint

could cause personal injury (see Chapter 12). 1 Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2 Remove the manual shift lever knob (see Chapter 7). 3 Detach the cup holder from the center console (see illustration).

NNVALITTT 111MLLa

PASSENGER

ADRBNG OF = ON

a

4°)

@

oof

Wh o Way

iit

$ ~,829s

a

SS

25.6a Remove the center cluster bezel screws

25.6b

Pull the bezel out and disconnect the electrical connectors

=

Chapter 11

a

25.7

#

et

a

SS

ae

Vie

eae

Use a small screwdriver to pry out the cover(s) and remove the center lower finish panel

4 Remove the retaining screws and remove the console (see illustration). 5 Installation is the reverse of removal.

11-19

Body

25.8 Unplug the center lower finish panel electrical connectors

left finish panel and detach the hood release cable (see Section 10).

Instrument cluster bezel

Glove compartment

Refer to illustration 25.3

25

Dashboard trim panels - removal and installation

Warning: The models covered by this manual are equipped with Supplemental Restraint Systems (SRS), more commonly known as airbags. Always disable the airbag system before working in the vicinity of any airbag system components to avoid the possibility of accidental deployment of the airbag(s), which could cause personal injury (see Chapter 12).

J

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

S}

Remove

the instrument

cluster bezel

screws (see illustration). 4 Detach the bezel and pull it out of the dashboard.

Center cluster finish panel Refer to illustrations 25.6a and 25.6b 5 Remove the heater control knobs. 6 Remove the center cluster finish panel retaining screws, pull off the center cluster finish panel and unplug the electrical connectors (see illustrations).

Lower left finish panel

Center lower finish panel

Refer to illustration 25.2 2 Remove the lower left finish panel retaining screws (see illustration), pull off the lower

Refer to illustrations 25.7 and 25.8

(ORT Si ait

7 Remove the screws panel (see illustration).

and

8 Pull the center cluster finish panel out and unplug the electrical connectors (see illustration).

detach

the

Refer to illustrations 25.9 and 25.10 9 Remove the screws, open the compartment door and lower it from the dashboard (see illustration). 10 Remove the screws, detach the glove compartment and lower it from the dashboard (see illustration).

26

Cowl vent grille - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 26.3a and 26.3b 1 Mark the position of the windshield wiper blades on the windshield with a wax marking pen or pieces of tape. 2 Pry the wiper arm covers up, remove the nuts and detach the wipers.

ae aie lip:

25.9 Remove the two screws and lower the glove compartment door from the dash

25.10

Remove the screws and detach the glove compartment

11-20

Chapter 11

Fe 26.3a

s

.

a i

Left side cowl vent grille mounting screws

3 Remove the cowl retaining clips and screws and remove the cowl (see illustrations). 4 Installation is the reverse of removal. Make sure to align the wiper blades with the marks made during removal.

27

Body

Seats - removal and installation

Warning 1: Some models are equipped with seat belt pre-tensioners, which are pyrotechnic (explosive) devices that tighten the seat belts during an impact of sufficient force. Always disable the airbag system before working in the vicinity of any restraint system component to avoid the possibility of accidental deployment of the airbag(s) and seat belt pre-tensioners, which could cause personal injury (see Chapter 12). Warning 2: Do not use a memory saving

26.3b

Front seat Refer to illustration 27.2 1 Position the seat all the way forward and all the way to the rear to access the front seat retaining bolts. 2 Detach any bolt trim covers and remove the retaining bolts (see illustration). 3 Tilt the seat upward to access the underneath, then disconnect any electrical connectors and lift the seat from the vehicle. 4 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Rear seat Tundra models Refer to illustration 27.6 Unlatch the seat cushions and lift them

up.

Remove the covers and the bolts, then remove the seat

as.SFSD / hes

6 Unscrew the four bolts, pull the seat up and remove it from the vehicle (see illustration). 7 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Sequoia models Middle seat 8 Fold the seat back down, then unlatch the seat and flip the entire seat up and forward. 9 Carefully pry off the covers, then remove the mounting bolts and lift the seat from the vehicle. 10 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Back seat 11. Unlatch the seat, then flip it up and forward. 12 Remove the covers and unscrew the bolts from the seat frame. Remove the seat from the vehicle. 13 Installation is the reverse of removal.

al 27.2

:

Right side cowl vent grille mounting screws

device to preserve the ECM’s memory when working on or near restraint system components.

5

i

or

27.6 Rear seat mounting details - Tundra models

12-1

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system Contents Section PUEAGS = GOMeral MNiOnMa iON ssc teeee Sys ele escescceefavesbas baneunsornes Antenna - removal and installation ...........ccccccseeccseseeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee SUID TEPIACEIMEML Pateresrsce ss wet rayseetuee tbe cee tare ieeans sesnartr vite dotarta cavete Circuit breakers - general information ............ccesccseseessenneeseessoens Cruise control system - description and CNECK..........c::ccceceeseeeeees Daytime Running Lights (DRL) - general information..............6006 Electrical troubleshooting - general information ...........::ccceeeeeeee EUISES ='|GENGralliNTOnMatiOnc.capacvausssedncs hyiacoehs oss asmtant bunfeonpenenpays Fusible links - general information...........cc:ccccccsesseecesseeseeseeessenaes BSShieral IMfOrMMAOniee,eoeer tents cera teal wlehas ster bacwssessathreinsscdetbentaeety Headlight housing - removal and installation... cccceeeeeeeeneeeeens FeAdight DuUID=SEPIACOMONt ssveracsssescervisuaceiyennsenevecsdersavtansene creen HIGAGHGNE SWILGH — TEPIACEMEME cicsszecorencnasseszescessncosettevtidvocssaat dhvere Rleadlights = ac\ustinentiz: sermeere tere state tov varniorcosertsratcetecnveieaste EiOMerODIACOMIOn tiesto hens epee oa.ramediveseesacessacea. nhiatieetasts

1.

General information

The electrical system is a 12-volt, negative ground type. Power for the lights and all electrical accessories is supplied by a lead/ acid-type battery which is charged by the alternator. This Chapter covers repair and service procedures for the various electrical components not associated with the engine. Information on the battery, alternator, ignition system and starter motor can be found in Chapter 5. It should be noted that when portions of the electrical system are serviced, the negative battery cable should be disconnected from the battery to prevent electrical shorts and/or fires.

2

28 7 tS 5 24 27 2 3 4 1 14 12 10 13 22

Section Ignition switch and key lock cylinder - replacement ..............::0e Instrument cluster - removal and installation .........0.:::ccceeceseeeneees Power door lock system - description and Check ..........:::::cseeeeees Power mirror control system - description and check..............00 Power window system - description And ChECK............::ceseessseeeeee Radio and speakers - removal and installation ..............:cc00ceeeeee Rear window defogger (Sequoia models) - check and repair ....... Rear window defogger switch (Sequoia models) replacemnentrrert: suiciriceania kai serscvuaadic tose catenin eae Peete Relays - general information and testing............cccceceseseereeeseees Tumi siqnallswitchi-replacemMeMtsscs.sdiec.usssssccsyeceusssecnceeseseneesreee Turn signal/hazard flasher - replaceMent ..........c0ccccccsssceseesseeeeseenes Windshield wiper switch - replaceMent ...........ccccccsessssereseensseeseees Wipemmolon- replacement ie nccsar cece cusses trace eeeeseaemetene eens Wiring diagrams - general information ........ccccccccseceseesserersersseeeeens

Electrical troubleshooting general information

Refer to illustrations 2.5a, 2.5b, 2.6 and 2.9 A typical electrical circuit consists of an electrical component, any switches, relays, motors, fuses, fusible links or circuit breakers related to that component and the wiring and connectors that link the component to both the battery and the chassis. To help you pinpoint an electrical circuit problem, wiring diagrams are included at the end of this Chapter. Before tackling any troublesome electrical circuit, first study the appropriate wiring diagrams to get a complete understand-

ing of what makes up that individual circuit.

9 21 26 23 25 16 20 19 6 8 i 11 18 29

Trouble spots, for instance, can often be narrowed down by noting if other components related to the circuit are operating properly. If several components or circuits fail at one time, chances are the problem is in a fuse or ground connection, because several circuits are often routed through the same fuse and ground connections. Electrical problems usually stem from simple causes, such as loose or corroded connections, a blown fuse, a melted fusible link or a failed relay. Visually inspect the condition of all fuses, wires and connections in a problem circuit before troubleshooting the circuit. If test equipment and instruments are going to be utilized, use the diagrams to plan

12-2

Chapter 12

2.5a The most useful tool for electrical troubleshooting is a digital multimeter that can check volts, amps, and test continuity ahead of time where you will make the necessary connections in order to accurately pinpoint the trouble spot. The basic tools needed for electrical troubleshooting include a circuit tester or voltmeter (a 12-volt bulb with a set of test leads can also be used), a continuity tester, which includes a bulb, battery and set of test leads, and a jumper wire, preferably with a circuit breaker incorporated, which can be used to bypass electrical components (see illustrations). Before attempting to locate a

problem with test instruments, use the wiring diagram(s) to decide where to make the connections.

Voltage checks Voltage checks should be performed if a circuit is not functioning properly. Connect one lead of a circuit tester to either the negative battery terminal or a known good ground. Connect the other lead to a connector in the circuit being tested, preferably nearest to the battery or fuse (see illustration). If the bulb of the tester lights, voltage is present, which means that the part of the circuit between the connector and the battery is problem free. Continue checking the rest of the circuit in the same fashion. When you reach a point at which no voltage is present, the problem lies between that point and the last test point with

voltage. Most of the time the problem can be traced to a loose connection. Note: Keep in mind that some circuits receive voltage only when the ignition key is in the Accessory or Run position.

Finding a short One method of finding shorts in a live circuit is to remove the fuse and connect a test light in place of the fuse terminals (fabricate two jumper wires with small spade terminals, plug the jumper wires into the fuse box and

connect the test light). There should be voltage present in the circuit. Move the suspected wiring harness from side-to-side while watching the test light. If the bulb goes off, there is a

Chassis electrical system

2.5b A simple test light is a very handy tool for testing voltage

2.6 In use, a basic test light’s lead is clipped to a known good ground, then the pointed probe can test connectors, wires

short to ground somewhere in that area, probably where the insulation has rubbed through.

Ground check Perform a ground test to check whether a component is properly grounded. Disconnect the battery and connect one lead of a continuity tester or multimeter (set to the ohms scale), to a known good ground. Connect the other lead to the wire or ground connection being tested. If the resistance is low (less than 5 ohms), the ground is good. If the bulb on a self-powered test light does not go

on, the ground is not good. Continuity check Acontinuity check is done to determine if there are any breaks in a circuit - if it is passing electricity properly. With the circuit off (no power in the circuit), a self-powered continuity tester or multimeter can be used to check the circuit. Connect the test leads to both ends of the circuit (or to the “power” end and a good ground), and if the test light comes on the circuit is passing current properly (see illustration). If the resistance is low (less than 5 ohms), there is continuity; if the reading is 10,000 ohms or higher, there is a break somewhere in the circuit. The same procedure can be used to test a switch, by connecting the continuity tester to the switch terminals. With the switch turned On, the test light should come on (or low resistance should be indicated on a meter).

or electrical sockets - if the bulb lights, the circuit being tested has battery voltage and fusible links to each electrical component

(light bulb, motor, etc.) and to ground, from which it is passed back to the battery. Any electrical problem is an interruption in the flow of electricity to and from the battery.

Connectors Most electrical

connections

on these

vehicles are made with multiwire plastic connectors. The mating halves of many connec-

tors are secured with locking clips molded into the plastic connector shells. The mating halves of large connectors, such as some of those under the instrument panel, are held together by a bolt through the center of the connector.

To separate a connector with locking clips, use a small screwdriver to pry the clips apart carefully, then separate the connector halves. Pull only on the shell, never pull on the wiring harness as you may damage the individual wires and terminals inside the

Finding an open circuit When diagnosing for possible open circuits, it is often difficult to locate them by sight because the connectors hide oxidation or terminal misalignment. Merely wiggling a connector on a sensor or in the wiring harness may correct the open circuit condition. Remember this when an open circuit is indicated when troubleshooting a circuit. Intermittent problems may also be caused by oxidized or loose connections. Electrical troubleshooting is simple if you keep in mind that all electrical circuits are basically electricity running from the battery, through the wires, switches, relays, fuses

2.9 With a multimeter set to the ohms scale, resistance can be checked across two terminals - when checking for continuity, a low reading indicates continuity, a high reading or infinity indicates lack of continuity

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

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3

Fuses - general information

Refer to illustrations 3.12, 3.1b and 3.3

1 The electrical circuits of the vehicle are protected by a combination of fuses, circuit breakers and fusible links. The passenger compartment fuse block is located in the left end of the instrument panel (see illustration).

always check the fuse first. The best way to check the fuses is with a test light. Check for power at the exposed terminal tips of each fuse. If power is present on one side of the

fuse but not the other, the fuse is blown. A blown fuse can also be confirmed by visually inspecting it (see illustration). 4 _Be sure to replace blown fuses with the correct type. Fuses of different ratings are physically interchangeable, but only fuses of the proper rating should be used. Replacing a fuse with one of a higher or lower value than specified is not recommended. Each electrical

ines

ui

3.3 When a fuse blows, the element between the terminals burns - the fuse on the left is blown, the fuse on the right is good

circuit needs a specific amount of protection. The amperage value of each fuse is molded into the fuse body. 5 If the replacement fuse fails immediately, don’t replace it again until the cause of the problem is isolated and corrected. In most cases, the cause will be a short circuit in the wiring caused by a broken or deteriorated wire.

overload in a circuit breaker protected system will cause the circuit to fail momentarily, then come back on. If the circuit doesn’t come back on, check it immediately. Once the condition is corrected, the circuit breaker will resume its normal function. Some circuit breakers must be reset manually.

6 4

The engine compartment fuse block (see illustration) is located in the left side of the engine compartment. 2 Each of the fuses is designed to protect a specific circuit, and the various circuits are identified on the fuse panel itself. 3. Miniaturized fuses are employed in the fuse block. These compact fuses, with blade terminal design, allow fingertip removal and replacement. If an electrical component fails,

ced

3.1b The engine compartment fuse/relay block is located on the driver’s side of the engine compartment - the various circuits are identified on the fuse panel label on the inside of the cover

3.1a The passenger compartment fuse/relay block is located in the left end of the instrument panel behind a removeable trim panel

connectors. Look at the connector closely before trying to separate the halves. Often the locking clips are engaged in a way that is not immediately clear. Additionally, many connectors have more than one set of clips. Each pair of connector terminals has a male half and a female half. When you look at the end view of a connector in a diagram, be sure to understand whether the view shows the harness side or the component side of the connector. Connector halves are mirror images of each other, and a terminal shown on the right side end-view of one half will be on the left side end view of the other half.

‘

Fusible links - general information

Some circuits are protected by fusible links. The links are used in circuits which are not ordinarily fused, such as the ignition circuit. Cartridge type fusible links are located in the engine compartment fuse block and are similar to a large fuse (see illustration 3.3),

and, after disconnecting the negative battery cable, are simply unplugged and replaced by a unit of the same amperage.

5

Circuit breakers - general information Circuit

breakers

protect components

such as power windows,

Relays - general information and testing

General information 1 Several electrical accessories in the vehicle, such as the fuel injection system, horns, starter, and fog lamps use relays to transmit the electrical signal to the component. Relays use a low-current circuit (the control circuit) to open and close a high-current circuit (the power circuit). If the relay is defective, that component will not operate properly. Most relays are mounted in the engine compartment fuse/relay boxes, with some specialized relays located above the interior fuse box under the dash. If a faulty relay is suspected, it can be removed and tested using the procedure below or by a dealer service department or a repair shop. Defective relays must be replaced as a unit.

power door locks

and headlights. On some models the circuit breaker resets itself automatically, so an electrical

Testing Refer to illustrations 6.3a, 6.3b and 6.6 2 _ Refer to the wiring diagrams for the cir-

12-4

Chapter 12

1

Chassis electrical system

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72021-12-5.3b HAYNES;

6.3a These two relays are typical normally open types; the one above completes a single circuit (terminal 5 to terminal 3) when energized - the lower relay type completes two circuits (6 and 7, and 3 and 5) when energized

cuit to determine the proper connections for the relay you're testing. If you can’t determine the correct connection from the wiring diagrams, however, you may be able to determine the test connections from the information that follows. 3 There are four basic types of relays used on these models (see illustrations). Some are normally open type and some normally closed, while others include a circuit of each

type. 4 On most relays, two of the terminals are the relay control circuit (they connect to the relay coil which, when energized, closes the large contacts to complete the circuit). The other terminals are the power circuit (they are connected together within the relay when the control-circuit coil is energized). 5 Some relays may be marked as an aid to help you determine which terminals are the control circuit and which are the power circuit. If the relay is not marked,

refer to the wiring

diagrams at the end of this Chapter to deter-

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6.3b These relays are normally closed types, where current flows though one circuit until the relay is energized, which interrupts that circuit and completes the second circuit

mine the proper hook-ups for the relay you're testing. 6 To test a relay, connect an ohmmeter across the two terminals of the power circuit, continuity should not be indicated (see illustration). Now connect a fused jumper wire between one of the two control circuit terminals and the positive battery terminal. Connect another jumper wire between the other control circuit terminal and ground. When the connections are made, the relay should click and continuity should be indicated on the meter. On some relays, polarity may be critical, so, if the relay doesn’t click, try swapping the jumper wires on the control circuit terminals. 7 Ifthe relay fails the above test, replace it.

Systems (SRS), more commonly known as airbags. Always disable the airbag system before working in the vicinity of any airbag system components to avoid the possibility of accidental deployment of the airbag(s), which could cause personal injury (see Section 28). 1 To replace the flasher relay, unplug it from the passenger compartment fuse block. 2 Make sure that the replacement unit is identical to the original. Compare the old one to the new one before installing it. 3 Installation is the reverse of removal.

8

Turn signal switch - replacement

Refer to illustrations 8.5 and 8.6

7

Turn signal/hazard flasher replacement

Warning: The models covered by this manual are equipped with Supplemental Restraint

Warning: The models covered by this manual are equipped with Supplemental Restraint Systems (SRS), more commonly known as airbags. Always disable the airbag system before working in the vicinity of any airbag system components to avoid the possibility of

(42025-12-5.5 HAYNES

6.6 To test a typical four-terminal normally open relay, connect an ohmmeter to the two terminals of the power circuit - the meter should indicate continuity with the relay energized and no continuity with the relay not energized

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8.5 Unplug the electrical connector from the turn signal switch

Chapter 12

12-5

Chassis electrical system

8.6 To detach the turn signal switch from the switch body, remove

these two screws (switch body removed from steering column for clarity) accidental deployment of the airbag(s), which could cause personal injury (see Section 28). 1 Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. 2 Disable the airbag system (see Section 28). 3 Remove the steering wheel (see Chapter 10). 4 Remove the steering column covers (see Chapter 11). 5 Unplug the electrical connector from the turn signal switch/headlight switch (see illustration). 6 Detach the turn signal switch/headlight switch from the switch body (see illustration). 7 Installation is the reverse of removal. Verify that the spiral cable is correctly centered before installing the steering wheel (see Chapter 10).

9

Ignition switch and key lock cylinder - replacement

Warning: The models covered by this manual are equipped with Supplemental Restraint Systems (SRS), more commonly known as airbags. Always disable the airbag system before working in the vicinity of any airbag system components to avoid the possibility of accidental deployment of the airbag(s), which could cause personal injury (see Section 28). 1 Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. 2 Remove the left-side under-dash panel (see Chapter 11).

Ignition switch Refer to illustrations 9.4 and 9.5 3 Remove the heater/air conditioner duct from below the steering column. 4 Unplug the electrical connectors from the rear of the ignition switch (see illustration). 5 Remove the screws and detach the switch from the lock cylinder housing (see illustration). 6 Installation is the reverse of removal.

9.4 Unplug these electrical connectors from the rear of the ignition switch...

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9.5 ...then remove the ignition switch retaining screws

9.7 The ignition lock cylinder illumination ring is held on by this plastic pin

Lock cylinder Refer to illustrations 9.7 and 9.9 7 Pull out the plastic pin and detach the lock cylinder illumination ring (see illustration). 8 Insert the ignition key and turn it to the ACC position. 9 Insert a small screwdriver into the hole in the bottom of the ignition switch casting and press the release button while pulling the lock cylinder straight out (see illustration). 10 Installation is the reverse of removal.

10

Headlight switch - replacement

Warning: The models covered by this manual are equipped with Supplemental Restraint Systems (SRS), more commonly known as

airbags. Always disable the airbag system before working in the vicinity of any airbag system components to avoid the possibility of accidental deployment of the airbag(s), which could cause personal injury (see Section 28).

1 Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery.

9.9 Insert a small screwdriver into the hole in the bottom of the ignition switch casting and press the release button while pulling the lock cylinder straight out

2 Disable the airbag system (see Section 28). 3 Remove the steering wheel (see Chapter 10).

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

i 11.5 Unplug the electrical connector from the windshield wiper switch

12.1

Unplug the electrical connector from the headlight bulb holder

2 Mees

12.2

12.3 Detach the spring retainer from the bulb holder

Pull off the water shield

4 Remove the steering column covers (see Chapter 11). 5 Unplug the electrical connector from the turn signal switch/headlight switch. 6 Detach the turn signal switch/headlight switch from the switch body (see illustra-tion

2 Disable the airbag system (see Section 28). 3. Remove the steering wheel (see Chapter 10). 4 Remove the steering column covers (see Chapter 11).

8.6).

3)

7 Installation is the reverse of removal. Verify that the spiral cable is correctly centered before installing the steering wheel (see Chapter 10).

the screws and detach the windshield wiper switch (see illustration). 6 __ Installation is the reverse of removal.

12 11

Windshield wiper switch replacement

Refer to illustration 11.5

Warning: The models covered by this manual are equipped with Supplemental Restraint Systems (SRS), more commonly known as airbags. Always disable the airbag system before working in the vicinity of any airbag system components to avoid the possibility of accidental deployment of the airbag(s), which could cause personal injury (see Section 28).

1. Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery.

Unplug the electrical connector, remove

12.4 Remove the bulb holder and bulb

from the headlight housing

13

Headlights - adjustment

Refer to illustrations 13.1 and 13.3 Note: The headlights must be aimed correctly. If adjusted incorrectly they could blind the driver of an oncoming vehicle and cause

Headlight bulb - replacement

Refer to illustrations 12.1, 1 Unplug the electrical headlight bulb holder (see 2 Pull the rubber water

12.2, 12.3 and 12.4 connector from the illustration). shield off the bulb

assembly (see illustration). 3 Detach the spring retainer (see illustration). 4 Withdraw the bulb from the housing (see illustration). 5 Installation is the reverse of removal. Caution: Don’t touch the bulb with your fingers. If you do, clean it with rubbing alcohol (the oil from your skin can cause the bulb to overheat and fail).

13.1

Insert a Phillips head screwdriver into the hole to make vertical headlight adjustments

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

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Floor to.Center.. of Headlamp Lens}

1

14.3

Remove the bolt and nuts and detach the

headlight housing

14

50029-12-19.3 HAYNES

13.3 Headlight adjustment details

a serious accident or seriously reduce your ability to see the road. The headlights should be checked for proper aim every 12 months

and any time a new headlight is installed or front end body work is performed. It should be emphasized that the following procedure ‘is only an interim step that will provide temporary adjustment until a properly equipped shop can adjust the headlights. 1 ‘The headlights have an adjusting screw on the headlight housing to contro! up-anddown (vertical) movement (see illustration). 2 There are several methods of adjusting the headlights. The simplest method requires a blank wall 25-feet in front of the vehicle and a level floor. 3 Position masking tape vertically on the wall in reference to the vehicle centerline and

the centerlines of both headlights (see illustration). 4 Position a horizontal tape line in reference to the centerline of all the headlights. Note: /t may be easier to position the tape on the wall with the vehicle parked only a few inches away. 5 Adjustment should be made with the vehicle sitting level, the gas tank half-full and no unusually heavy load in the vehicle. 6 Starting with the low beam adjustment, position the high intensity zone so it’s two inches below the horizontal line and two inches to the side of the headlight vertical line away from oncoming traffic. Adjustment is made by turning the top adjusting screw clock-

wise to raise the beam and counterclockwise to lower the beam. 7 With the high beams on, the high intensity zone should be vertically centered with the exact center just below the horizontal line. Note: /t may not be possible to position the headlight aim exactly for both high and low beams. If a compromise must be made, keep in mind that the low beams are the most used and have the greatest effect on driver safety. 8 Have the headlights adjusted by a dealer service department or service station at the earliest opportunity.

Headlight housing - removal and installation

Refer to illustration 14.3 1 Unplug the electrical connector from the headlight bulb (see illustration 12.1). 2 Remove the side marker light (see Section 15). 3 Remove the headlight housing retaining nuts and bolts (see illustration) and pull out the assembly. 4 Installation is the reverse of removal. Check and adjust headlights (see Section 13).

15

Bulb replacement

Fog lights Refer to illustrations 15.1 and 15.2 1 Disconnect the electrical connector from the fog light bulb holder (see illustration). 2 Turn the bulb holder counterclockwise and remove it from the housing (see illustration.

EAB ce.

15.1 Disconnect the fog light electrical connector

15.2 Turn the bulb holder counterclockwise and remove it from

the fog light housing

Chapter 12

Hi

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Chassis electrical system

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15.5 Remove the side marker housing retaining screw, then pull out the plastic fastener

15.6a

Rotate the side marker housing out of the fender

é

counterclockwise and pull it out

3. To detach the bulb from the bulb holder, pull it straight out. 4 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Front side marker/turn signal

light Refer to illustrations 15.5, 15.6a, 15.6b and 15.7 5 Remove the side marker light housing retaining screw, then pull out the plastic fastener (see illustration). 6 Strike the rear part of the housing in a forward direction with your hand to free the housing, then rotate the side marker light housing out of the fender and unplug the electrical connector (see illustrations). 7 Turn the bulb holder counterclockwise and remove it from the side marker light housing (see illustration). 8 To detach a bulb from the bulb holder, pull it straight out. 9 Installation is the reverse of removal. When installing the retaining screw, place it in position and press straight down until it clicks in place.

15.10 To detach the Tundra tail light housing, remove the screws and rotate it out

Tail light/brake light/turn signal Refer to illustrations 15.10 and 15.13 10 On Tundra models, open the tailgate, remove the two bolts and rotate the tail light housing out for access to the bulbs (see illustration). 11. On Sequoia models, open the liftgate and remove the screws along the edge of the stop/tail and backup light housing, then detach the light housing from the vehicle. 12 On the liftgate-mounted tail light housings, remove the two retaining nuts, then use a screwdriver with a taped tip to carefully pry the housing off. 13 On all models, remove the bulb holder by rotating it counterclockwise, then remove the bulb by pulling it straight out (see illustration). 14 Installation is the reverse of removal.

License plate light Refer to illustrations 15.15 and 15.16 15 On Tundra models with side-mounted lights, remove the screw and detach the

15.6b

Unplug the electrical connector from the bulb holder

15.13 To replace a bulb, simply turn the holder counterclockwise and pull it out of the tail light housing - pull the bulb straight out of the holder housing from the bumper (see illustration). On center mounted lights, squeeze the tabs together and lower the bulb housing.

15.15 To remove the license plate bulb holder on side-mounted license plate lights, remove the screw and detach the

housing from the vehicle (Tundra)

Chapter 12

15.16

12-9

Chassis electrical system

Rotate the bulb holder counterclockwise and withdraw it

from the housing (Tundra)

15.20 To get to the cargo light bulb (or high-mounted brake light bulbs), remove the screws and detach the lens

:

for bulb access (see illustration). 21 Pull out the defective bulb (see illustration). 22

Replace the bulb and install the lens and

screws. 15.21 Grasp the bulb securely and pull it out

Heater control panel light Refer to illustration 15.24 23 Remove the dashboard trim panel surrounding the heater and air conditioning control panel (see Chapter 11). 24 Pull out the defective bulb (see illustration). 25 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Instrument cluster light bulbs 16 To remove the bulb holder, turn it counterclockwise and pull it out (see illustration). 17 To remove the bulb from the holder, pull it straight out. 18 On Sequoia models, remove the retaining screws and detach the lens. Remove the bulb from the holder by pulling it straight out

of the housing. 19

Installation is the reverse of removal.

Refer to illustration 15.27 26 Remove the instrument cluster (see Section 21). 27

High-mounted brake and cargo light Refer to illustrations 15.20 and 15.21 20 Remove the screws and detach the lens

Rotate the bulb holder counterclockwise

and pull it out of the cluster (see illustration). 28 To remove the bulb from the holder, simply pull it straight out. 29 Installation is the reverse of removal.

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15.24

To replace the heater control panel bulbs, first remove

the center dashboard trim bezel, then rotate the bulbs and pull straight out

15.27

To remove a bulb from the instrument cluster, rotate the

bulb holder counterclockwise and pull it out

12-10

15.30

Chapter 12

Detach the dome light lens

Dome light bulb Refer to illustration 15.30 and 15.31 30 Detach the dome light lens (see illustration).

15.31

Chassis electrical system

31 Grasp the bulb securely and detach it from the spring clips at each end (see illustration). 32 Installation is the reverse of removal.

16

16.3 Remove the mounting bolts, detach the radio from the instrument panel and disconnect the negative electrical connector

Grasp the bulb securely and detach it from the spring clip at each end

Radio and speakers - removal and installation

connect the antenna

lead and the electrical

connector.

4 Remove the radio from the instrument panel. s) Installation is the reverse of removal.

Speakers Refer to illustrations 16.7a and 16.7b

Warning: The models covered by this manual are equipped with Supplemental Restraint Systems (SRS), more commonly known as airbags. Always disable the airbag system before working in the vicinity of any airbag system components to avoid the possibility of accidental deployment of the airbag(s), which could cause personal injury (see Section 28).

Radio

16.7a To remove a door-mounted speaker, remove the retaining screws, pull off the speaker and unplug the electrical connector

16.7b Tundra access door-mounted speaker installation details - unplug the electrical connector and remove the speaker retaining screws

Refer to illustration 16.3 1 Detach the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. 2 Remove the center cluster finish bezel (see Chapter 11). 3 Remove the radio retaining bolts (see illustration) and pull out the radio, then dis-

17.2 Use a small open-end wrench to unscrew the antenna mast

6

All models

have at least one

speaker

in each door. Extra cab Tundra models are also equipped with a pair of rear speakers. To remove any door-mounted speaker, remove the door trim panel (see Chapter 11). 7 Remove the speaker retaining screws and unplug the electrical connector (see illustrations). 8 Installation is the reverse of removal.

17

Antenna - removal and

installation Refer to illustrations 17.2 and 17.3 Note: The following procedure applies to conventional external type antennas. It does not apply to the glass-printed antennas used on some Sequoia models. Glass-printed antennas should be serviced by a dealer service department or other qualified repair shop. 1 Remove the radio and unplug the antenna cable (see Section 16). Trace the routing of the cable and detach all cable clamps and/or clips. Attach about four or five feet of string or wire to the antenna lead to help aid the installation of the new antenna lead. 2 Useasmall open-end wrench to unscrew

the antenna mast (see illustration). 3 Remove the antenna base retaining nut (see illustration), then detach the antenna base and pull out the antenna lead until the string or wire is exposed. 4 Attach the string or wire to the new % antenna lead and pull the antenna lead back through. 5 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Chapter 12

12-11

Chassis electrical system

a”

17.3 Use a pair of snap-ring pliers or similar tool to loosen and remove the antenna base retaining nut

18.2 To remove the windshield wiper motor, remove the mounting bolts

Wiper Motor

18.4 A typical wiper linkage assembly 18.3

Pull out the motor and detach the lever arm from

the wiper linkage

18

Wiper motor - replacement

Front wiper motor Refer to illustrations 18.2, 18.3 and 18.4 1 Remove the cowl (see Chapter 11) and disconnect the electrical connector from the wiper motor. 2 Remove the wiper motor mounting bolts

(see illustration). 3 Pull out the motor and detach the lever arm from the wiper link (see illustration). 4 To remove the wiper linkage, detach the bolts from the cowl (see illustration) and remove it through the vent hole. 5 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Rear wiper motor (Sequoia models) § Todetach the wiper arm, flip up the cover and remove the nut. 7 Open the liftgate and remove the trim panel and service hole cover (see Chapter 11). 8 Remove the retaining bolts, unplug the electrical connector, then lift the wiper motor from the vehicle. 9 Installation is the reverse of removal.

19

Rear window defogger switch (Sequoia models) - replacement

Warning: The models covered by this manual are equipped with Supplemental Restraint Systems (SRS), more commonly known as airbags. Always disable the airbag system before working in the vicinity of any airbag system components to avoid the possibility of accidental deployment of the airbag(s), which could cause personal injury (see Section 28). 1 Detach the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. 2 Remove the center dash panel (see Chapter 11). 3 Remove the switch from dash panel. 4 Installation is the reverse of removal.

20.4 When measuring the voltage at the rear window defogger grid, wrap a piece of aluminum foil around the positive probe of the voltmeter and press the foil against the wire with your finger

Check 20

Rear window defogger (Sequoia models) - check and repair

1

The rear window defogger consists of a

number of horizontal elements baked onto the glass surface. 2 Small breaks in the element can be repaired without removing the rear window.

Refer to illustrations 20.4, 20.5 and 20.7 3. Turn the ignition switch and defogger system switches to the ON position. Using a voltmeter, place the positive probe against the defogger grid positive terminal and the negative lead against the ground terminal. If battery voltage is not indicated, check the fuse, defogger switch and related wiring. 4 When measuring voltage during the next two tests, wrap a piece of aluminum foil

12-12

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

e

f

20.5 To determine if a heating element has broken, check the voltage at the center of each element - if the voltage is 6-volts, the element is unbroken - if the voltage is 12-volts, the element is broken between the center and the ground side - if there’s no voltage, the wire is broken between the center of the wire and the power side around the tip of the voltmeter positive probe and press the foil against the heating element

the negative terminal end. The point at which the voltmeter deflects from several volts to

with your finger (see illustration). 5 Check the voltage at the center of each heating element (see illustration). If the voltage is 6-volts, the element is okay (there is no break). If the voltage is 12-volts, the element is broken between the center of the element and the ground side. If the voltage is 0-volts the element is broken between the center of

zero is the point at which the heating element is broken (see illustration).

the element and positive side. 6

If none of the elements are broken, con-

nect the negative lead to a good body ground. the voltage reading should stay the same, if it doesn’t the ground connection is bad. if

To find the break,

place the voltmeter

negative lead against the defogger ground terminal. Place the voltmeter positive lead with the foil strip against the heating element at the positive terminal end and slide it toward

Repair Refer to illustration 20.13 8 Repair the break in the element using a repair kit specifically recommended for this purpose, such as Dupont paste No. 4817 (or equivalent). Included in this kit is plastic conductive epoxy. 9 Prior to repairing a break, turn off the system and allow it to cool off for a few minutes.

10 Lightly buff the element area with fine steel wool, then clean it thoroughly with rub-

bing alcohol. 11. Use masking tape to mask off the area being repaired. 12 Thoroughly mix the epoxy, following the instructions provided with the repair kit. 13 Apply the epoxy material to the slit in the masking tape, overlapping the undamaged area about 3/4-inch on either end (see illustration). 14 Allow the repair to cure for 24 hours before removing the tape and using the system.

21

3

20.13 To use a defogger repair kit, apply masking tape to the inside of the window at the damaged area, then brush on the

special conductive coating

L|

20.7 To find the break, place the voltmeter negative lead against the defogger ground terminal, place the voltmeter positive lead with the foil strip against the heating element at the positive terminal end and slide it toward the negative terminal end - the point at which the voltmeter deflects from 12-volts to zero volts is the point at which the element is broken 1 Detach the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. 2 Remove the instrument cluster trim bezel (see Chapter 11). 3 Remove the instrument cluster retaining screws, pull out the cluster and unplug the electrical connectors from the cluster. 4 Installation is the reverse of removal.

22

Horn - replacement

Refer to illustration 22.2 1 The horns are located support.

on the radiator

2 To replace a horn, unplug the electrical connector and remove the bracket bolt (see illustration). 3 _Unbolt the bracket from the old horn and bolt it onto the new unit. 4 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Instrument cluster - removal and installation

Warning: The models covered by this manual are equipped with Supplemental Restraint Systems (SRS), more commonly known as airbags. Always disable the airbag system before working in the vicinity of any airbag system components to avoid the possibility of accidental deployment of the airbag(s), which could cause personal injury (see Section 28).

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x

.

22.2 To detach the horn from the body, remove this bracket bolt (arrow)

Chapter 12 SE

23

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SE

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LSS

Power mirror control system description and check

1 Electric rear view mirrors use two motors to move the glass; one for up and down adjustments and one for left-right adjustments. 2. Thecontrol switch has a selector portion which sends voltage to the left or right side mirror. With the ignition ON but the engine OFF, roll down the windows and operate the mirror control switch through all functions (left-right and up-down) for both the left and right side mirrors. 3 Listen carefully for the sound of the electric motors running in the mirrors. 4 lf the motors can be heard but the mirror glass doesn’t move, there’s probably a problem with the drive mechanism inside the mirror. 5 lf the mirrors do not operate and no sound comes from the mirrors, check the fuse (see Section 3). 6 If the fuse is OK, remove the mirror control switch from its mounting without disconnecting the wires attached to it. Turn the ignition ON and check for voltage at the switch. There should be voltage at one terminal. If there’s no voltage at the switch, check for an open or short in the circuit between the fuse panel and the switch. 7 ‘If the mirror motor fails to operate as described, replace the mirror assembly (see Chapter 11).

24

Cruise control system description and check

1 The cruise control system maintains vehicle speed with an electrically operated motor located in the engine compartment, which is connected to the throttle lever by a cable. The system consists of the cruise control unit, brake switch, control switches and

vehicle speed sensor. Some features of the system require special testers and diagnostic procedures which are beyond the scope of this manual. Listed below are some general procedures that may be used to locate common problems. 2 Locate and check the fuse (see Sec-

tion 3). 3 Have an assistant operate the brake lights while you check their operation (voltage from the brake light switch deactivates the

cruise control). 4

If the brake lights don’t come

on, or if

they stay on all the time, correct the problem and re-test the cruise control. 5 Visually inspect the control cable between the cruise control motor and the throttle linkage for free movement; replace it if necessary. 6 The cruise control system uses a speed sensing device. The speed sensor is located in the speedometer. Check the electrical connectors at the instrument cluster (see Sec-tion 21). 7 Test drive the vehicle to determine if the

SPRY

SSS SPREE SP

PSSA

SS

TSR

BS

cruise control is now working. If it isn’t, take it to a dealer service department or an automotive electrical specialist for further diagnosis.

25

Power window system description and check

regulators,

glass mechanisms

and

associated wiring. 2 The power windows can be lowered and raised from the master control switch by the driver or by remote switches located at the individual windows. Each window has a separate motor which is reversible. The position of the control switch determines the polarity and therefore the direction of operation. 3 The circuit is protected by a fuse and a circuit breaker. Each motor is also equipped with an internal circuit breaker; this prevents

one stuck window from disabling the whole system. 4 The power window system will only operate when the ignition switch is ON. In

addition, many models have a window lockout switch at the master control switch which, when activated, disables the switches at the rear windows

and, sometimes, the switch at

the passenger’s window also. Always check these items before troubleshooting a window problem. 5 These procedures are general in nature, so if you can’t find the problem using them, take the vehicle to a dealer service department or other properly equipped repair facility. 6 lf the power windows won’t operate,

always check the fuse and circuit breaker first.

7 _ If only the rear windows are inoperative, or if the windows only operate from the master

control switch, check the rear window lockout switch for continuity in the unlocked position. Replace it if it doesn’t have continuity. 8 Check the wiring between the switches and fuse panel for continuity. Repair the wiring, if necessary. 9 If only one window is inoperative from the master control switch, try the other control switch at the window. Note: This doesn’t apply to the drivers door window. 10 If voltage is reaching the motor, disconnect the glass from the regulator (see Chapter 11). Move the window up and down by hand while checking for binding and damage. Also check for binding and damage to the regulator. If the regulator is not damaged and the window moves up and down smoothly, replace the motor. If there’s binding or damage, lubricate, repair or replace parts, as necessary.

11 the the sult

SSS

‘If voltage isn’t reaching the motor, check wiring in the circuit for continuity between switches and motors. You'll need to conthe wiring diagram for the vehicle. If the

A

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circuit is equipped with a relay, check that the relay is grounded properly and receiving volt-

age. 12 Test the windows after you are done to confirm proper repairs.

26

1 The power window system operates electric motors, mounted in the doors, which lower and raise the windows. The system consists of the control switches, relays, the motors,

12-13

Chassis electrical system SSS

Power door lock system description and check

Description 1 A power door lock system operates the door lock actuators mounted in each door. The system consists of the switches, actuators, a control unit and associated wiring. Diagnosis can usually be limited to simple checks of the wiring connections and actuators for minor faults that can be easily repaired. 2 Power door lock systems are operated by bi-directional solenoids located in the doors. The lock switches have two operating positions: Lock and Unlock. When activated, the switch sends a ground signal to the door lock control unit to lock or unlock the doors. Depending on which way the switch is activated, the control unit reverses polarity to the solenoids, allowing the two sides of the circuit to be used alternately as the feed (positive) and ground side. 3 Some vehicles may have an anti-theft system incorporated into the power locks. If you are unable to locate the trouble using the following general Steps, consult a dealer service department or other qualified repair shop. 4 Always check the circuit protection first. Some vehicles use a combination of circuit breakers and fuses. 5 Operate the door lock switches in both directions (Lock and Unlock) with the engine off. Listen for the click of the solenoids operating. 6 Test the switches for continuity. Remove the switches and have them checked by a dealer service department or other qualified automobile repair facility. 7 Check the wiring between the switches, control unit and solenoids for continuity. Repair the wiring if there’s no continuity. 8 Check for a bad ground at the switches or the control unit. 9 If all but one lock solenoids operate, remove the trim panel from the affected door (see Chapter 11) and check for voltage at the solenoid while the lock switch is operated. One of the wires should have voltage in the Lock position; the other should have voltage in the Unlock position. 10 If the inoperative solenoid is receiving voltage, replace the solenoid. 11 If the inoperative solenoid isn’t receiving voltage, check the relay for an open or short in the wire between the lock solenoid and the control unit. Note: /t’s common for wires to break in the portion of the harness between the body and door (opening and closing the door fatigues and eventually breaks the wires).

12-14

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

ED

27

Daytime Running Lights (DRL) - general information

The Daytime Running Lights (DRL) system used on some models illuminates the headlights whenever the engine is running. The only exception is with the engine running and the parking brake engaged. Once the parking brake is released, the lights will remain on as long as the ignition switch is on, even if the parking brake is later applied. The DRL system supplies reduced power to the headlights so they won't be too bright for daytime use, while prolonging headlight

life.

28

Airbags - general information

These models are equipped with a Supplemental Restraint System (SRS), more commonly known as an airbag. This system is designed to protect the driver and the front seat passenger from serious injury in the event of a head-on or frontal collision. It consists of an airbag module in the center of the steering wheel and another airbag module on the right side of the instrument panel plus, on some and later models, side airbags and curtain shield airbags designed to protect the occupants in a side impact and a sensing/diagnostic module which is mounted in the center of the vehicle below the instrument panel. These models are also equipped with a pair of impact sensors that are located at the

front of the vehicle. Some later models are equipped with seatbelt pre-tensioners, also part of the airbag system. The pre-tensioners are pyrotechnic (explosive) devices designed to retract the seat belts in the event of a collision. On models equipped with pre-tensioners, do not remove the front seat belt retractor assemblies. Problems with the pre-tensioners will turn on the SRS (airbag) warning light on the dash. If any pre-tensioner problems are suspected, take the vehicle to a dealer service department.

Airbag module Steering wheel-mounted The airbag inflator module contains a housing incorporating the cushion (airbag) and inflator unit, mounted in the center of

the steering wheel. The inflator assembly is mounted on the back of the housing over a hole through which gas is expelled, inflating the bag almost instantaneously when an electrical signal is sent from the system. A spiral cable assembly on the steering column under the module carries this signal to the module. This spiral cable assembly can transmit an electrical signal regardless of steering wheel position.

Instrument panel-mounted The passenger side airbag is mounted above the glove compartment and designated by the letters SRS (Supplemental Restraint System). It consists of an inflator containing an igniter, a bag assembly, a reaction housing and a trim cover. The passenger airbag is considerably larger than the steering wheel-mounted unit and is supported by the steel reaction housing. The trim cover has a molded seam which splits when the bag inflates.

Sensing and diagnostic module The sensing and diagnostic module sup-

plies the current to the airbag system in the event of the collision, even if battery power is cut off. It checks this system every time the vehicle is started, causing the “AIR BAG” light to go on then off, if the system is operating properly. If there is a fault in the system, the light will go on and stay on, flash, or the dash will make a beeping sound. If this happens, the vehicle should be taken to your dealer immediately for service.

tions could result in accidental deployment of the airbag and personal injury. Warning 2: Never install a “memory-saver” device, used to preserve PCM memory and radio station presets, when working on or around any of the airbag system components. Whenever working in the vicinity of the steering wheel, instrument panel or any of the other SRS system components, the system must be disarmed. To disarm the system: a) Point the wheels straight ahead and turn the ignition key to the LOCK position. b) Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. c) Wait at least two minutes for the back-up power supply capacitor to be depleted. Whenever handling an airbag module, always keep the airbag opening (trim side) pointed away from your body. Never place the airbag module on a bench or other surface with the airbag opening facing the surface. Always place the airbag module in a safe location with the airbag opening (trim side) facing up. Never measure the resistance of any SRS component. An ohmmeter has a built-in battery supply that could accidentally deploy the airbag. Never use electrical welding equipment on a vehicle equipped with an airbag without first disconnecting the negative battery cable. Never dispose of a live airbag module. Return it to your dealer for safe deployment, using special equipment, and disposal.

29

Wiring diagrams - general information

Side and curtain airbags The passenger side airbag and inflator modules are mounted on the sides of the front seats contain an inflator containing an igniter and bag assembly. The curtain shield airbag assemblies run along the interior of the roof from the front A-pillar to the rear of the passenger compartment. In the event of a side impact both airbag assemblies are activated by the sensors mounted at the base of the center pillar behind the seats.

Precautions Disabling the SRS system Warning

1: Failure to follow these precau-

Since it isn’t possible to include all wir-

ing diagrams for every year covered by this manual, the following diagrams are those that are typical and most commonly needed. Prior to troubleshooting any circuits, check the fuse and circuit breakers (if equipped) to make sure they're in good condition. Make sure the battery is properly charged and check the cable connections (see Chapter 1). When checking a circuit, make sure that all connectors are clean, with no broken or loose terminals. When unplugging a connector, do not pull on the wires. Pull only on the connector housings themselves.

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Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

2: Moon wi + 3: 6Speaker + 10 Speaker 4:+ Moon Roof w/o 1: * Roof

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