Haynes Toyota Camry 1983 thru 1990 Automotive Repair Manual 185010705X, 9781850107057

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CAMRY 1983 thru 1990 All gasoline engine models

Automotive Repair Manual

Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2012

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ta yo To Camry Automotive Repair Manual by Ken Freund and John H Haynes Member

of the Guild of Motoring Writers

Models covered: All Toyota Camry models 1983 through 1990 Does not include diesel engine information KLMNO

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Haynes Publishing Group Sparkford Nr Yeovil .^ Somerset BA22 7JJ England , \ ^D Haynes Publications, Inc 861 Lawrence Drive Newbury Park California 91320 USA

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Acknowledgements We are grateful for the help and cooperation of the Toyota Motor Corporation for their assistance with technical information, certain illustrations and vehicle photos, and the Champion Spark Plug Company who supplied the illustrations of various spark plug conditions. Technical writers who contributed to this project include Larry Warren, Mike Stubblefield and Bob Henderson.

© Haynes Publishing Group 1989, 1990 A book in the Haynes Automotive

Repair Manual Series

Printed by J.H. Haynes & Co., Ltd. Sparkford Nr. Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 85010 705 X

Library of Congress Catalog Card Number

89-80126

While every attempt is made to ensure that the information in this manual is correct, no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

Contents introductory pages About this manual Introduction to the Toyota Camry Vehicle identification numbers Buying parts Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Booster battery (jump) starting Jacking and towing Automotive chemicals and lubricants Safety first! Conversion factors Troubleshooting

5 5 7 158 158 18 17 19

20

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

27

Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines

60

Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine

86

Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems Chapter 6 Emissions control systems

105 131

144 168

183

Chapter 7 Part A Manual transaxle

203

Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transaxle

212

Chapter 8 Part A Clutch and driveaxles

216

Chapter 8 Part B All-wheel drive system

230

Chapter Brakes 9

237

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems Body

259 279

Chapter 1 1

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

294

Wiring diagrams

307

Index

329

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About this manual Its purpose The purpose of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done, even if you choose to have it done by a dealer service department or a repair shop; it provides information and procedures for routine maintenance and servicing; and it offers diagnostic and repair procedures to follow when trouble occurs. It is hoped that you will use the manual to tackle the work yourself. For many simpler jobs, doing it yourself may be quicker than arranging an appointment to get the vehicle into a shop and making the trips to leave it and pick it up. More importantly, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the expense the shop must pass on to you to cover its labor and overhead costs. An added benefit is the sense of satisfaction and accomplishment that you feel after having done the job yourself.

Using the manual The manual is divided into Chapters. Each Chapter is divided into numbered Sections, which are headed in bold type between horizontal

lines. Each Section consists of consecutively numbered paragraphs. At the beginning of each numbered section you will be referred to any illustrations which apply to the procedures in that section. The reference numbers used in illustration captions pinpoint the pertinent Section and the Step within that section. That is, illustration 3.2 means the illustration refers to Section 3 and Step (or paragraph) 2 within that Section. Procedures, once described in the text, are not normally repeated. When it is necessary to refer to another Chapter, the reference will be given as Chapter and Section number i.e. Chapter 1/16). Cross references given without use of the word "Chapter" apply to Sections and/or paragraphs in the same Chapter. For example, "see Section 8" means in the same Chapter. Reference to the left or right side of the vehicle is based on the assumption that one is sitting in the driver's seat, facing forward. Even though extreme care has been taken during the preparation of this manual, neither the publisher nor the author can accept responsibility for any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

NOTE A Note provides information necessary to properly complete a procedure or information which will make the steps to be followed easier to understand. CAUTION A Caution indicates a special procedure or special steps which must be taken in the course of completing the procedure in which the Caution is found which are necessary to avoid damage to the assembly being worked on. WARNING A Warning indicates a special procedure or special steps which must be taken in the course of completing the procedure in which the Warning is found which are necessary to avoid injury to the person performing the procedure.

Introduction to the Toyota Camry Toyota Camry models are available in 4-door sedan, liftback and station wagon body styles. The transversely mounted inline four-cylinder or V6 engines used in these models are equipped with electronic fuel injection. Later model four-cylinder engines are equipped with double overhead cams and four valves per cylinder. The engine drives the front wheels through either a 5-speed manual or 4-speed automatic transaxle via independent driveaxles. On all-wheel

drive models, a transfer case is used to drive the rear wheels through a driveshaft, rear differential and driveaxles. Independent suspension, featuring coil spring/strut damper units, is used on all four wheels. The power assisted rack and pinion steering unit is mounted behind the engine. The brakes are disc at the front with either drum or discs at the rear, depending on model, with power assist standard.

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Vehicle identification numbers Modifications are a continuing and unpublicized process in vehicle manufacturing. Since spare parts manuals and lists are compiled on a numerical basis, the individual vehicle numbers are essential to correctly identify the component required.

Vehicle Identification Number

(VIN)

This very important identification number is stamped on the firewall in the engine compartment and on a plate attached to the dashboard inside the windshield on the driver's side of the vehicle (see illustration). The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certificate of Title and Registration. It contains information such as where and when the vehicle was manufactured, the model year and the body style.

Manufacturer's plate The manufacturer's plate is attached to the firewall in the engine compartment (see illustration). The plate contains the name of the manufacturer, the month and year of production, the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) and the certification statement.

Engine numbers The engine code numbers can be found in a variety of locations, depending on engine type (see illustrations).

The VIN number plate is attached to the dashboard on the driver's side of the vehicle

Important ID numbers and other information can be found in several locations on the vehicle Vehicle Identification Number (stamped on firewall)

B plate Number Vehicle Identification C Manufacturer's (visible through the driver's side windshield) Certification regulation plate

1983 through 1986 four-cylinder engine code number location

On 1987 and later four-cylinder engines, the code number is on the rear of the block, just below the cylinder head

V6 engine code number location

Buying parts Replacement parts are available from many sources, which generally fall into one of two categories — authorized dealer parts departments and independent retail auto parts stores. Our advice concerning these parts is as follows: Authorized dealer parts department: This is the best source for parts which are unique to your vehicle and not generally available elsewhere such as major engine parts, transaxle parts, trim pieces, etc. Warranty information: If your vehicle is still covered under warranty, be sure that any replacement parts you purchase — regardless of the source — do not invalidate your warranty! To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, have your engine and chassis numbers available and, if possible, take

the old parts along for positive identification. Retail auto parts stores: Good auto parts stores will stock frequently needed components which wear out relatively fast such as clutch components, exhaust systems, brake parts, tune-up parts, etc. These stores often supply new or reconditioned parts on an exchange basis, which can save a considerable amount of money. Discount auto parts stores are often very good places to buy materials and parts needed for general vehicle maintenance such as oil, grease, filters, spark plugs, belts, touch up paint, bulbs, etc. They also usually sell tools and general accessories, have convenient hours, charge lower prices, and can often be found not far from your home.

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Maintenance techniques There are a number of techniques involved in maintenance and that will be referred to throughout this manual. Application of techniques will enable the home mechanic to be more efficient, organized and capable of performing the various tasks properly, will ensure that the repair job is thorough and complete.

repair these better which

Fasteners Fasteners are nuts, bolts, studs and screws used to hold two or more parts together. There are a few things to keep in mind when working with fasteners. Almost all of them use a locking device of some type, either a lockwasher, locknut, locking tab or thread adhesive. All threaded fasteners should be clean and straight, with undamaged threads and undamaged corners on the hex head where the wrench fits. Develop the habit of replacing all damaged nuts and bolts with new ones. Special locknuts with nylon or fiber inserts can only be used

once. If they are removed, they lose their locking ability and must be replaced with new ones. Rusted nuts and bolts should be treated with a penetrating fluid to ease removal and prevent breakage. Some mechanics use turpentine in a spout-type oil can, which works quite well. After applying the rust penetrant, let it work for a few minutes before trying to loosen the nut or bolt. Badly rusted fasteners may have to be chiseled or sawed off or removed with a special nut breaker, available at tool stores. If a bolt or stud breaks off in an assembly, it can be drilled and removed with a special tool commonly available for this purpose. Most automotive machine shops can perform this task, as well as other repair procedures, such as the repair of threaded holes that have been stripped out. Flat washers and lockwashers, when removed from an assembly, should always be replaced exactly as removed. Replace any damaged washers with new ones. Never use a lockwasher on any soft metal surface (such as aluminum), thin sheet metal or plastic.

Maintenance Fastener sizes

For a number of reasons, automobile manufacturers are making wider and wider use of metric fasteners. Therefore, it is important to be able to tell the difference between standard (sometimes called U.S. or SAE) and metric hardware, since they cannot be interchanged. All bolts, whether standard or metric, are sized according to diameter, thread pitch and length. For example, a standard 1/2 — 13x1 bolt is 1/2 inch in diameter, has 13 threads per inch and is 1 inch long. An M1 2 — 1 .75 x 25 metric bolt is 1 2 mm in diameter, has a thread pitch of 1 .75 mm (the distance between threads) and is 25 mm long. The two bolts are nearly identical, and easily confused, but they are not interchangeable. In addition to the differences in diameter, thread pitch and length, metric and standard bolts can also be distinguished by examining the bolt heads. To begin with, the distance across the flats on a standard bolt head is measured in inches, while the same dimension on a metric bolt is sized in millimeters (the same is true for nuts). As a result, a

Grade 1 or 2

standard wrench should not be used on a metric bolt and a metric wrench should not be used on a standard bolt. Also, most standard bolts have slashes radiating out from the center of the head to denote the grade or strength of the bolt, which is an indication of the amount of torque that can be applied to it. The greater the number of slashes, the greater the strength of the bolt. Grades 0 through 5 are commonly used on automobiles. Metric bolts have a property class (grade) number, rather than a slash, molded into their heads to indicate bolt strength. In this case, the higher the number, the stronger the bolt. Property class numbers 8.8, 9.8 and 10.9 are commonly used on automobiles. Strength markings can also be used to distinguish standard hex nuts from metric hex nuts. Many standard nuts have dots stamped into one side, while metric nuts are marked with a number. The greater the number of dots, or the higher the number, the greater the strength of the nut. Metric studs are also marked on their ends according to property class (grade). Larger studs are numbered (the same as metric bolts).

Grade 8

Grade 5

Bolt strength markings (top — standard/SAE/USS;

Grade

Identification

Class

bottom

3 Dots

J

e ©

Arabic 9 Hex Nut Property

Hex Nut Grade 8

Class 10

6 Dots Standard hex nut strength markings

— metric)

Identification

Hex Nut Property Class 9

Hex Nut Grade 5

9

techniques, tools and working facilities

ArabicIO Metric hex nut strength markings

CLASS 10.9

CLASS 9.8 Metric stud strength markings

CLASS 8.8

Maintenance

10

techniques, tools and working facilities

while smaller studs carry a geometric code to denote grade. It should be noted that many fasteners, especially Grades 0 through 2, have no distinguishing marks on them. When such is the case, the only way to determine whether it is standard or metric is to measure the thread pitch or compare it to a known fastener of the same size. Standard fasteners are often referred to as SAE, as opposed to metric. However, it should be noted that SAE technically refers to a non-metric fine thread fastener only. Coarse thread non-metric fasteners are referred to as USS sizes. Since fasteners of the same size (both standard and metric) may have different strength ratings, be sure to reinstall any bolts, studs or nuts removed from your vehicle in their original locations. Also, when replacing afastener with a new one, make sure that the new one has a strength rating equal to or greater than the original.

Tightening sequences and procedures Most threaded fasteners should be tightened to a specific torque value (torque is the twisting force applied to a threaded component such as a nut or bolt). Overtightening the fastener can weaken it and cause it to break, while undertightening can cause it to eventually come loose. Bolts, screws and studs, depending on the material they are made of and their thread diameters, have specific torque values, many of which are noted in the Specifications at the beginning of each Chapter. Be sure to follow the torque recommendations closely. For fasteners not assigned a specific torque, a general torque value chart is presented here as a guide. These torque values are for dry (unlubricated) fasteners threaded into steel or cast iron (not aluminum). As was previously mentioned, the size and grade of a fastener determine the amount of torque that can safely be applied to it. The figures listed here are approximate

Metric thread sizes M-6 M-8 M-10 M-12 M-14

Ft-lb

6 to 9 14 to 21 28 to 40 50 to 71 80 to 140

Nm/m 9 to 12 19 to 28 38 to 54 68 to 96 109 to 154

Pipe thread sizes 1/8 1/4 3/8 1/2

5 to 8 1 2 to 1 8 22 to 33 25 to 35

7 to 10 1 7 to 24 30 to 44 34 to 47

6 to 9 12 to 18 14 to 20 22 to 32 27 to 38 40 to 55 40 to 60 55 to 80

9 to 12

U. S. thread sizes 1/4-20 5/16-18 5/16-24 3/8-16 3/8-24 7/16-14 7/16-20 1/2-13

Standard (SAE and USS) bolt dimensions/grade marks G L T D

Grade marks (bolt strength) Length (in inches) Thread pitch (number of threads per inch) Nominal diameter (in inches)

17 19 30 37 55 55 75

to to to to to to to

24 27 43 51 74 81 108

Metric bolt dimensions/grade marks P Property class (bolt strength) L Length (in millimeters) T Thread pitch (distance between threads in millimeters) D Diameter

Maintenance

for Grade 2 and Grade 3 fasteners. Higher grades can tolerate higher torque values. Fasteners laid out in a pattern, such as cylinder head bolts, oil pan bolts, differential cover bolts, etc., must be loosened or tightened in sequence to avoid warping the component. This sequence will normally be shown in the appropriate Chapter. If a specific pattern is not given, the following procedures can be used to prevent warping. Initially, the bolts or nuts should be assembled finger-tight only. Next, they should be tightened one full turn each, in a criss-cross or diagonal pattern. After each one has been tightened one full turn, return to the first one and tighten them all one-half turn, following the same pattern. Finally, tighten each of them one-quarter turn at a time until each fastener has been tightened to the proper torque. To loosen and remove the fasteners, the procedure would be reversed.

Component disassembly Component disassembly should be done with care and purpose to help ensure that the parts go back together properly. Always keep track of the sequence in which parts are removed. Make note of special characteristics or marks on parts that can be installed more than one way, such as a grooved thrust washer on a shaft. It is a good idea to lay the disassembled parts out on a clean surface in the order that they were removed. It may also be helpful to make sketches or take instant photos of components before removal. When removing fasteners from a component, keep track of their locations. Sometimes threading a bolt back in a part, or putting the washers and nut back on a stud, can prevent mix-ups later. If nuts and bolts cannot be returned to their original locations, they should be kept in a compartmented box or a series of small boxes. A cupcake or muffin tin is ideal for this purpose, since each cavity can hold the bolts and nuts from a particular area (i.e. oil pan bolts, valve cover bolts, engine mount bolts, etc.). A pan of this type is especially helpful when working on assemblies with very small parts, such as the carburetor, alternator, valve train or interior dash and trim pieces. The cavities can be marked with paint or tape to identify the contents. Whenever wiring looms, harnesses or connectors are separated, it is a good idea to identify the two halves with numbered ing tape so they can be easily reconnected.

pieces of mask-

can easily mar the gasket sealing surfaces of the parts, which must remain smooth. If prying is absolutely necessary, use an old broom handle, but keep in mind that extra clean up will be necessary if the wood splinters. After the parts are separated, the old gasket must be carefully scraped off and the gasket surfaces cleaned. Stubborn gasket material can be soaked with rust penetrant or treated with a special chemical to soften it so it can be easily scraped off. A scraper can be fashioned from a piece of copper tubing by flattening and sharpening one end. Copper is recommended because it is usually softer than the surfaces to be scraped, which reduces the chance of gouging the part. Some gaskets can be removed with a wire brush, but regardless of the method used, the mating surfaces must be left clean and smooth. If for some reason the gasket surface is gouged, then a gasket sealer thick enough to fill scratches will have to be used during reassembly of the components. For most applications, a non-drying (or semi-drying) gasket sealer should be used.

Hose removal tips Warning: If the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, do not disconnect any of the A/C hoses without first having the system depressurized by a dealer service department or an air conditioning specialist. Hose removal precautions closely parallel gasket removal precautions. Avoid scratching or gouging the surface that the hose mates against or the connection may leak. This is especially true for radiator hoses. Because of various chemical reactions, the rubber in hoses can bond itself to the metal spigot that the hose fits over. To remove a hose, first loosen the hose clamps that secure it to the spigot. Then, with slip-joint pliers, grab the hose at the clamp and rotate it around the spigot. Work it back and forth until it is completely free, then pull it off. Silicone or other lubricants will ease removal if they can be applied between the hose and the outside of the spigot. Apply the same lubricant to the inside of the hose and the outside of the spigot to simplify installation. As a last resort (and if the hose is to be replaced with a new one anyway), the rubber can be slit with a knife and the hose peeled from the spigot. If this must be done, be careful that the metal connection is not damaged. If a hose clamp is broken or damaged, do not reuse it. Wire-type clamps usually weaken with age, so it is a good idea to replace them

Gasket sealing surfaces Throughout any vehicle, gaskets are used to seal the mating surfaces between two parts and keep lubricants, fluids, vacuum or pressure contained in an assembly. Many times these gaskets are coated with a liquid or paste-type gasket sealing compound before assembly. Age, heat and pressure can sometimes cause the two parts to stick together so tightly that they are very difficult to separate. Often, the assembly can be loosened by striking it with a soft-face hammer near the mating surfaces. A regular hammer can be used if a block of wood is placed between the hammer and the part. Do not hammer on cast parts or parts that could be easily damaged. With any particularly stubborn part, always recheck to make sure that every fastener has been removed. Avoid using a screwdriver or bar to pry apart an assembly, as they

Micrometer

11

techniques, tools and working facilities

set

with screw-type

clamps whenever

a hose is removed.

Tools A selection of good tools is a basic requirement for anyone who plans to maintain and repair his or her own vehicle. For the owner who has few tools, the initial investment might seem high, but when compared to the spiraling costs of professional auto maintenance and repair, it is a wise one.

Dial indicator set

Maintenance

12

Dial caliper

techniques, tools and working facilities

Hand-operated vacuum

pump

Timing light

Compression gauge with spark plug hole adapter

Damper/steering wheel puller

General purpose puller

Hydraulic lifter removal tool

Valve spring compressor

Valve spring compressor

Ridge reamer

Piston ring groove cleaning tool

Ring removal/installation tool

13

Maintenance

techniques, tools and working facilities

Ring compressor

Cylinder hone

Brake hold-down spring tool

Brake cylinder hone

Clutch plate alignment tool

Tap and die set

To help the owner decide which tools are needed to perform the tasks detailed in this manual, the following tool lists are offered: Maintenance and minor repair, Repair/overhaul and Special. The newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the maintenance and minor repair tool kit, which is adequate for the simpler jobs performed on a vehicle. Then, as confidence and experience grow, the owner can tackle more difficult tasks, buying additional tools as they are needed. Eventually the basic kit will be expanded into the repair and overhaul tool set. Over a period of time, the experienced do-ityourselfer will assemble a tool set complete enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the special category when it is felt that the expense is justified by the frequency of use.

Note: If basic tune-ups are going to be part of routine maintenance, it will be necessary to purchase a good quality stroboscopic timing light and combination tachometer/dwell meter. Although they are included in the list of special tools, it is mentioned here because they are absolutely necessary for tuning most vehicles properly.

Maintenance

Repair and overhaul tool set

and minor repair tool kit

The tools in this list should be considered the minimum required for performance of routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair work. We recommend the purchase of combination wrenches (box-end and open-end combined in one wrench). While more expensive than open end wrenches, they offer the advantages of both types of wrench. Combination wrench set (1/4-inch to 1 inch or 6 mm Adjustable wrench, 8 inch Spark plug wrench with rubber insert Spark plug gap adjusting tool Feeler gauge set Brake bleeder wrench Standard screwdriver (5/1 6-inch x 6 inch) Phillips screwdriver (No. 2x6 inch) Combination pliers — 6 inch Hacksaw and assortment of blades Tire pressure gauge Grease gun Oil can Fine emery cloth Wire brush

to 19 mm)

Battery post and cable cleaning tool Oil filter wrench Funnel (medium size) Safety goggles Jackstands (2) Drain pan

These tools are essential for anyone who plans to perform major repairs and are in addition to those in the maintenance and minor repair tool kit. Included is a comprehensive set of sockets which, though expensive, are invaluable because of their versatility, especially when various extensions and drives are available. We recommend the 1 /2-inch drive over the 3/8-inch drive. Although the larger drive is bulky and more expensive, it has the capacity of accepting a very wide range of large sockets. Ideally, however, the mechanic should have a 3/8-inch drive set and a 1/2-inch drive set. Socket set(s) Reversible ratchet Extension —10 inch Universal joint Torque wrench (same size drive as sockets) Ball peen hammer — 8 ounce Soft-face hammer (plastic/rubber) Standard screwdriver (1/4-inch x 6 inch) Standard screwdriver (stubby — 5/16-inch) Phillips screwdriver (No. 3x8 inch) Phillips screwdriver (stubby — No. 2)

Maintenance

14

techniques, tools and working facilities on the other hand, extensive work is planned, it would be a good idea to purchase a modest tool set from one of the large retail chain stores. A set can usually be bought at a substantial savings over the individual tool prices, and they often come with a tool box. As additional tools are needed, add-on sets, individual tools and a larger tool box can be purchased to expand the tool selection. Building a tool set gradually allows the cost of the tools to be spread over a longer period of time and gives the mechanic the freedom to choose only those tools that will actually be used.

Pliers - vise grip Pliers — lineman's Pliers — needle nose Pliers — snap -ring (internal and external) Cold chisel — 1/2-inch Scribe Scraper (made from flattened copper tubing) Centerpunch Pin punches (1/16. 1/8, 3/16-inch) Steel rule/straightedge — 12 inch Allen wrench set (1/8 to 3/8-inch or 4 mm A selection of files Wire brush (large) Jacks tands (second set) Jack (scissor or hydraulic type)

to 10 mm)

Note: Another tool which is often useful is an electric drill motor with a chuck capacity of 3/8-inch and a set of good quality drill bits.

Special tools The tools in this list include those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturer's instructions. Unless these tools will be used frequently, it is not very economical to purchase many of them. A consideration would be to split the cost and use between yourself and a friend or friends. In addition, most of these tools can be obtained from a tool rental shop on a temporary basis. This list primarily contains only those tools and instruments widely available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer for distribution to dealer service departments. Occasionally, references to the manufacturer's special tools are inluded in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the special tool is offered. However, sometimes there is no alternative to their use. Where this is the case, and the tool cannot be purchased or borrowed, the work should be turned over to the dealer service department or an automotive repair shop. Valve spring compressor Piston ring groove cleaning tool Piston ring compressor Piston ring installation tool Cylinder compression gauge Cylinder ridge reamer Cylinder surfacing hone Cylinder bore gauge Micrometers and/or dial calipers Hydraulic lifter removal tool Balljoint separator Universal-type puller Impact screwdriver Dial indicator set Stroboscopic timing light (inductive pick-up) Hand operated vacuum/pressure pump Tachometer/dwell meter Universal electrical multimeter Cable hoist Brake spring removal and installation tools Floor jack

Buying tools For the do-it-yourselfer who is just starting to get involved in vehicle maintenance and repair, there are a number of options available when purchasing tools. If maintenance and minor repair is the extent of the work to be done, the purchase of individual tools is satisfactory. If,

Tool stores will often be the only source of some of the special tools that are needed, but regardless of where tools are bought, try to avoid cheap ones, especially when buying screwdrivers and sockets, because they won't last very long. The expense involved in replacing cheap tools will eventually be greater than the initial cost of quality tools.

Care and maintenance of tools Good

tools are expensive, so it makes

respect. Keep them clean and in usable erly when not in use. Always wipe off before putting them away. Never leave area. Upon completion of a job, always

sense to treat them

with

condition and store them any dirt, grease or metal tools lying around in the check closely under the

propchips work hood

for tools that may have been left there so they won't get lost during a test drive. Some tools, such as screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches and sockets, can be hung on a panel mounted on the garage or workshop wall, while others should be kept in a tool box or tray. Measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc. must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged by weather or impact from other tools. When tools are used with care and stored properly, they will last a very long time. Even with the best of care, though, tools will wear out if used frequently. When a tool is damaged or worn out, replace it. Subsequent jobs will be safer and more enjoyable if you do.

Working facilities Not to be overlooked when discussing tools is the workshop. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some sort of suitable work area is essential. It is understood, and appreciated, that many home mechanics do not have a good workshop or garage available, and end up removing an engine or doing major repairs outside. It is recommended, however, that the overhaul or repair be completed under the cover of a roof. A clean, flat workbench or table of comfortable working height is an absolute necessity. The workbench should be equipped with a vise that has a jaw opening of at least four inches. As mentioned previously, some clean, dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as the lubricants, fluids, cleaning solvents, etc. which will soon become necessary. Sometimes waste oil and fluids, drained from the engine or cooling system during normal maintenance or repairs, present a disposal problem. To avoid pouring them on the ground or into a sewage system, pour the used fluids into large containers, seal them with caps and take them to an authorized disposal site or recycling center. Plastic jugs, such as old antifreeze containers, are ideal for this purpose. Always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean rags available. Old towels are excellent for mopping up spills. Many mechanics use rolls of paper towels for most work because they are readily available and disposable. To help keep the area under the vehicle clean, a large cardboard box can be cut open and flattened to protect the garage or shop floor. Whenever working over a painted surface, such as when leaning over a fender to service something under the hood, always cover it with an old blanket or bedspread to protect the finish. Vinyl covered pads, made especially for this purpose, are available at auto parts stores.

Booster battery (jump) starting Certain precautions must be observed when using a booster battery to start a vehicle. a) Before connecting the booster battery, make sure the ignition switch is in the Off position. b) Turn off the lights, heater and other electrical loads. c) Your eyes should be shielded. Safety goggles are a good idea. d) Make sure the booster battery is the same voltage as the dead one in the vehicle. e) The two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other! f) Make sure the transmission is in Neutral (manual) or Park (automatic). g) If the booster battery is not a maintenance-free type, remove the vent caps and lay a cloth over the vent holes. Connect the red jumper cable to the positive ( + ) terminals of each battery. Connect one end of the black jumper cable to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery. The other end of this cable should be connected to a good ground on the vehicle to be started, such as a bolt or bracket on the engine block (see illustration). Use caution to ensure that the cable will not come into contact with the fan, drivebelts or other moving parts of the engine. Start the engine using the booster battery, then, with the engine running at idle speed, disconnect the jumper cables in the reverse order of connection.

Make the booster battery cable connections in the numerical order shown (note that the negative cable of the booster battery is NOT attached to the negative terminal of the dead battery)

Jacking and towing Jacking Warning: The jack supplied with the vehicle should only be used for changing a tire or placing jackstands under the frame. Never work under the vehicle or start the engine while this jack is being used as the only means of support. The vehicle should be on level ground. Place the shift lever in Park, if you have an automatic, or Reverse if you have a manual transaxle. Block the wheel diagonally opposite the wheel being changed. Set the parking brake.

Remove the spare tire and jack from stowage. Remove the wheel cover and trim ring (if so equipped) with the tapered end of the lug nut wrench by inserting and twisting the handle and then prying against the back of the wheel cover. On aluminum wheels, tap the back side of the wheel hub cover after removing the wheel (do not attempt to pull off the wheel hub cover by hand). Loosen, but do not remove, the lug nuts (one-half turn is sufficient). Place the scissors-type jack under the side of the vehicle and adjust the jack height until it fits between the notches in the vertical rocker

16

Jacking and towing Towing All Trac/4WD

models

All-Trac models can be towed in one of two ways — never use any other method! One way is to place the rear wheels on a dolly and raise the front wheels off the ground with a towing sling (the method most tow trucks would use). They can also be towed with all four wheels on the ground if the parking brake is released, the transmission is in Neutral and the ignition key is in the ACC position. If the vehicle has a center differential lock button, the center differential must be unlocked (the indicator light must be off with the ignition key on). Note: Don't tow the vehicle with the key removed or in the LOCK position. The steering lock mechanism isn 't strong enough to hold the front wheels straight while towing. FWD models As a general rule, the vehicle should be towed with the front (drive) wheels off the ground. If they can't be raised, place them on a dolly. The ignition key must be in the ACC position, since the steering lock towing. mechanism isn't strong enough to hold the front wheels straight while The jack fits over the rocker panel flange, between the two notches (there are two jacking points on each side of the vehicle) panel flange nearest the wheel to be changed. There is a front and rear jacking point on each side of the vehicle (see illustration). Turn the jack handle clockwise until the tire clears the ground. Remove the lug nuts and pull the wheel off. Replace it with the spare. Replace the lug nuts with the beveled edges facing in. Tighten them snugly. Don't attempt to tighten them completely until the vehicle is lowered or it could slip off the jack. Turn the jack handle counterclockwise to lower the vehicle. Remove the jack and tighten the lug nuts in a criss-cross pattern. Install the cover (and trim ring, if used) and be sure it's snapped into place all the way around. Stow the tire, jack and wrench. Unblock the wheels.

Vehicles equipped with an automatic transaxle can be towed from the front only with all four wheels on the ground, provided that speeds don't exceed 30 mph and the distance is not over 50 miles. Before towing, check the transmission fluid level (see Chapter 1 ). If the level is below the HOT line on the dipstick, add fluid or use a towing dolly. Release the parking brake, put the transaxle in Neutral and place the ignition key in the ACC position. Caution: Never tow a vehicle with an automatic transaxle from the rear with the front wheels on the Equipment specifically designed for towing should be used. It should ground. be attached to the main structural members of the vehicle, not the bumpers or brackets. Safety is a major consideration when towing and all applicable state and local laws must be obeyed. A safety chain system must be used at all times. Remember that power steering and power brakes will not work with the engine off.

Automotive chemicals and lubricants A number of automotive chemicals and use during vehicle maintenance and repair. of products ranging from cleaning solvents and protective sprays for rubber, plastic

lubricants are available for They include a wide variety and degreasers to lubricants and vinyl.

Sealants RTV sealant is one of the most widely used gasket compounds. Made from silicone, RTV is air curing, it seals, bonds, waterproofs, fills surface

Cleaners Carburetor cleaner and choke cleaner is a strong solvent for gum, varnish and carbon. Most carburetor cleaners leave a dry-type lubricant film which will not harden or gum up. Because of this film it is not recommended for use on electrical components. Brake system cleaner is used to remove grease and brake fluid from the brake system where clean surfaces are absolutely necessary. It leaves no residue and often eliminates brake squeal caused by contaminants. Electrical cleaner removes oxidation, corrosion and carbon deposits from electrical contacts, restoring full current flow. It can also be used to clean spark plugs, carburetor jets, voltage regulators and other parts where an oil-free surface is desired. Demoisturants remove water and moisture from electrical components such as alternators, voltage regulators, electrical connectors and fuse blocks. It is non-conductive, non-corrosive and non-flammable. Degreasers are heavy-duty solvents used to remove grease from the outside of the engine and from chassis components. They can be sprayed or brushed on, and, depending on the type, are rinsed off either with water or solvent.

Lubricants Motor oil is the lubricant formulated for use in engines. It normally contains a wide variety of additives to prevent corrosion and reduce foaming and wear. Motor oil comes in various weights (viscosity ratings) from 5 to 80. The recommended weight of the oil depends on the season, temperature and the demands on the engine. Light oil is used in cold climates and under light load conditions. Heavy oil is used in hot climates and where high loads are encountered. Multiviscosity oils are designed to have characteristics of both light and heavy oils and are available in a number of weights from 5W-20 to 20W-50. Gear oil is designed to be used in differentials, manual transaxles and other areas where high-temperature lubrication is required. Chassis and wheel bearing grease is a heavy grease used where increased loads and friction are encountered, such as for wheel bearings, balljoints, tie rod ends and universal joints. High temperature wheel bearing grease is designed to withstand the extreme temperatures encountered by wheel bearings in disc brake equipped vehicles. It usually contains molybdenun disulfide (moly), which is a dry-type lubricant. White grease is a heavy grease for metal to metal applications where water is a problem. White grease stays soft under both low and high temperatures (usually from -100°Fto off or dilute in the presence of water.

is used for mounting HEI ignition modules where it is essential that heat be transferred away from the module.

+190°F),

and will not wash

Assembly lube is a special extreme pressure lubricant, usually containing moly, used to lubricate high-load parts such as main and rod bearings and cam lobes for initial start-up of a new engine. The assembly lube lubricates the parts without being squeezed out or washed away until the engine oiling system begins to function. Silicone lubricants are used to protect rubber, plastic, vinyl and nylon parts. Graphite lubricants are used where oils cannot be used due to contamination problems, such as in locks. The dry graphite will lubricate metal parts while remaining uncontaminated by dirt, water, oil or acids. It is electrically conductive and will not foul electrical contacts in locks such as the ignition switch. Moly penetrants loosen and lubricate frozen, rusted and corroded fasteners and prevent future rusting or freezing. Heat-sink grease is a special electrically non-conductive

grease that

irregularities, remains flexible, doesn't shrink, is relatively easy to remove, and is used as a supplementary sealer with almost all low and medium temperature gaskets. Anaerobic sealant is much like RTV in that it can be used either to seal gaskets or to form gaskets by itself. It remains flexible, is solvent resistant and fills surface imperfections. The difference between an anaerobic sealant and an RTV-type sealant is in the curing. RTV cures when exposed to air, while an anaerobic sealant cures only in the absence of air. This means that an anaerobic sealant cures only after the assembly of parts, sealing them together. Thread and pipe sealant is used for sealing hydraulic and pneumatic fittings and vacuum lines. It is usually made from a teflon compound, and comes in a spray, a paint-on liquid and as a wrap-around tape.

Chemicals Anti-seize compound prevents seizing, galling, cold welding, rust and corrosion in fasteners. High temperature anti-seize, usually made with copper and graphite lubricants, is used for exhaust system and manifold bolts. Anaerobic locking compounds are used to keep fasteners from vibrating or working loose, and cure only after installation, in the absence of air. Medium strength locking compound is used for small nuts, bolts and screws that you expect to be removing later. High strength locking compound is for large nuts, bolts and studs which you don't intend to be removing on a regular basis. Oil additives range from viscosity index improvers to chemical treatments that claim to reduce internal engine friction. It should be noted that most oil manufacturers caution against using additives with their oils. Gas additives perform several functions, depending on their chemical makeup. They usually contain solvents that help dissolve gum and varnish that build up on carburetor and intake parts. They also serve to break down carbon deposits that form on the inside surfaces of the combustion chambers. Some additives contain upper cylinder lubricants for valves and piston rings, and others chemicals to remove condensation from the gas tank.

Miscellaneous Brake fluid is specially formulated hydraulic fluid that can withstand the heat and pressure encountered in brake systems. Care must be taken that this fluid does not come in contact with painted surfaces or plastics. An opened container should always be resealed to prevent contamination by water or dirt. Weatherstrip adhesive is used to bond weatherstripping around doors, windows and trunk lids. It is sometimes used to attach trim pieces. Undercoating is a petroleum-based tar-like substance that is designed to protect metal surfaces on the underside of the vehicle from corrosion. It also acts as a sound-deadening bottom of the vehicle.

agent

by

insulating the

Waxes and polishes are used to help protect painted and plated surfaces from the weather. Different types of paint may require the use of different types of wax and polish. Some polishes utilize a chemical or abrasive cleaner to help remove the top layer of oxidized (dull) paint on older vehicles. In recent years many non-wax polishes that contain a wide variety of chemicals such as polymers and silicones have been introduced. These non-wax polishes are usually easier to apply and last longer than conventional waxes and polishes.

Safety first! Regardless of how enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job at hand, take the time to ensure that your safety is not jeopardized. A moment's lack of attention can result in an accident, as can failure to observe certain simple safety precautions. The possibility of an accident will always exist, and the following points should not be considered a comprehensive list of all dangers. Rather, they are intended to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safety conscious approach to all work you carry out on your vehicle.

Essential DOs and DON'Ts DON'T rely on a jack when working under the vehicle. Always use approved jackstands to support the weight of the vehicle and place them under the recommended lift or support points. DON'T attempt to loosen extremely tight fasteners (i.e. wheel lug nuts) while the vehicle is on a jack — it may fall. DON'T start the engine without first making sure that the transmission is in Neutral (or Park where applicable) and the parking brake is set. DON'T remove the radiator cap from a hot cooling system — let it cool or cover it with a cloth and release the pressure gradually. DON'T attempt to drain the engine oil until you are sure it has cooled to the point that it will not burn you. DON'T touch any part of the engine or exhaust system until it has cooled sufficiently to avoid burns. DON'T siphon toxic liquids such as gasoline, antifreeze and brake fluid by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin. DON'T inhale brake lining dust — it is potentially hazardous (see Asbestos below) DON'T allow spilled oil or grease to remain on the floor — wipe it up before someone slips on it. DON'T use loose fitting wrenches or other tools which may slip and cause injury. DON'T push on wrenches when loosening or tightening nuts or bolts. Always try to pull the wrench toward you. If the situation calls for pushing the wrench away, push with an open hand to avoid scraped knuckles if the wrench should slip. DON'T attempt to lift a heavy component help you.

alone — get someone

to

DON'T rush or take unsafe shortcuts to finish a job. DON'T allow children or animals in or around the vehicle while you are working on it. DO wear eye protection when using power tools such as a drill, sander, bench grinder, etc. and when working under a vehicle. DO keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving parts. DO make sure that any hoist used has a safe working load rating adequate for the job. DO get someone to check on you periodically when working alone on a vehicle.

DO carry out work in a logical sequence and make sure that everything is correctly assembled and tightened. DO keep chemicals and fluids tightly capped and out of the reach of children and pets. DO remember that your vehicle's safety affects that of yourself and others. If in doubt on any point, get professional advice.

Asbestos Certain friction, insulating, sealing, and other products — such as brake linings, brake bands, clutch linings, torque converters, gaskets, etc. — contain asbestos. Extreme care must be taken to avoid inhalation of dust from such products since it is hazardous to health. If in doubt, assume that they do contain asbestos.

Fire Remember at all times that gasoline is highly flammable. Never smoke or have any kind of open flame around when working on a vehicle. But the risk does not end there. A spark caused by an electrical short circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, or even by static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite gasoline vapors, which in a confined space are highly explosive. Do not, under any circumstances, use gasoline for cleaning parts. Use an approved safety solvent. Always disconnect the battery ground (-) cable at the battery before working on any part of the fuel system or electrical system. Never risk spilling fuel on a hot engine or exhaust component. It is strongly recommended that a fire extinguisher suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires be kept handy in the garage or workshop at all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with water.

Fumes Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconsciousness and even death if inhaled to any extent. Gasoline vapor falls into this category, as do the vapors from some cleaning solvents. Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated area. When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions on the container carefully. Never use materials from unmarked containers. Never run the engine in an enclosed space, such as a garage. Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide, which is extremely poisonous. If you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air, or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the work area. If you are fortunate enough to have the use of an inspection pit, never drain or pour gasoline and never run the engine while the vehicle is over the pit. The fumes, being heavier than air, will concentrate in the pit with possibly lethal results.

The battery Never create a spark or allow a bare light bulb near the battery. The battery normally gives off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive. Always disconnect the battery ground (-) cable at the battery before working on the fuel or electrical systems. If possible, loosen the filler caps or cover when charging the battery from an external source. Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery may burst. Take care when adding water and when carrying a battery. The electrolyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be allowed to contact clothing or skin. Always wear eye protection when cleaning the battery to prevent the caustic deposits from entering your eyes.

Household current When using an electric power tool, inspection light, etc., which operates on household current, always make sure that the tool is correctly connected to its plug and that, where necessary, it is properly grounded. Do not use such items in damp conditions and, again, do not create a spark or apply excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel vapor.

Secondary ignition system voltage A severe electric shock can result from touching certain parts of the ignition system (such as the spark plug wires) when the engine is running or being cranked, particularly if components are damp or the insulation isdefective. In the case of an electronic ignition system, the secondary system voltage is much higher and could prove fatal.

Conversion factors Length (distance)

X X X

0.0394

0.061 1.76

= US gallons (US gal) = Litres (I)

X X X X X X X X

28.35 0.454

= Grams (g) = Kilograms (kg)

X X

X X

0.278 4.448

= Newtons = Newtons

0.225 3.6

X

0.1

= Kilograms-force (kgf; kg)

X X X

per square inch

X

0.070

= Kilograms-force per square

X

14.223

(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) Pounds-force per square inch

X

0.068

centimetre (kgf/cm2; kg/cm2) = Atmospheres (atm)

X

14.696

Inches (in) Feet (ft) Miles

Volume (capacity) Cubic inches (cu in; in3) Imperial pints (Imp pt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) US quarts (US qt) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) US gallons (US gal)

X X X

25.4 0.305 1.609

X X X X X X X X

16.387 0.568

X X

1.137 1.201 0.946 4.546 1.201 3.785

= Millimetres (mm) = Metres (m) = Kilometres (km)

= Cubic centimetres (cc; cm3) Litres (I) = Litres (I) = US quarts (US qt) = Litres (I) = Litres (I)

Mass (weight) Ounces (oz) Pounds (lb)

3.281 0.621

0.88 0.833 1.057 0.22 0.833 0.264

0.035 2.205

= Inches (in) = Feet (ft) = Miles

= = = = = = = =

Cubic inches (cu in; in3) Imperial pints (Imp pt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) US quarts (US qt) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) US gallons (US gal)

= Ounces (oz) = Pounds (lb)

Force Ounces-force (ozf; oz) Pounds-force (Ibf; lb) Newtons (N)

(N) (N)

Pressure Pounds-force

9.81

14.5

(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) Pounds-force per square inch

X

0.069

= Bars

X

(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) Pounds-force per square inch

X

6.895

= Kilopascals (kPa)

X

(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) Kilopascals (kPa)

X

0.01

= Kilograms-force per square

X

= Ounces-force (ozf; oz) = Pounds-force (Ibf; lb) = Newtons (N)

0.145

98.1

per square

inch

= (psi; Pounds-force per square lbf/in2; lb/in2)

inch

= (psi; Pounds-force per square lbf/in2; lb/in2)

inch

= (psi; Pounds-force per square lbf/in2; lb/in2)

inch

= Pounds-force

= (psi; Kilopascals lbf/in2; (kPa) lb/in2)

centimetre (kgf/cm2; kg/cm2)

Torque (moment of force) Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; lb in) Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; lb in) Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; lb in) Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft) Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft) Newton metres (Nm)

X

0.868

0.113

= Kilograms-force centimetre (kgf cm; kg cm) = Newton metres (Nm)

X

8.85

X

0.083

= Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft)

X

12

X

0.138

X

1.356

= Kilograms-force metres (kgf m; kg m) = Newton metres (Nm)

X

1.152

X

X

Pounds-force (Ibf in; lb in) Pounds-force (Ibf in; lb in) Pounds-force (Ibf in; lb in) Pounds-force

7.233

X X

0.738

X

0.0013

0.102

= Kilograms-force metres (kgf m; kg m)

X

745.7

= Watts (W)

X

1.609

Kilometres per hour (km/hr; kph) X

0.621

X X

0.354 0.425

Kilometres per litre (km/I) Kilometres per litre (km/I)

2.825 2.352

inches inches feet (Ibf ft; lb ft)

Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft) Newton metres (Nm)

9.804

X

inches

Power Horsepower

(hp)

= Horsepower

(hp)

Velocity (speed) Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

Fuel consumption*

Miles per gallon, Imperial (mpg) Miles per gallon, US (mpg)

X X

= Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

Miles per gallon. Imperial (mpg) Miles per gallon, US (mpg)

Temperature Degrees Fahrenheit

(°C x 1.8) + 32

Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; °C)

*lt is common practice to convert from miles per gallon (mpg) to litres/ 100 kilometres (1/1 00km), where mpg (Imperial) x 1/100 km = 282 and mpg (US) x 1/100 km = 235

= (°F - 32) x 0.56

Troubleshooting Contents

Symptom

Section

Engine Engine backfires Engine diesels (continues to run) after switching off Engine hard to start when cold Engine hard to start when hot Engine lacks power Engine lopes while idling or idles erratically Engine misses at idle speed Engine misses throughout driving speed range Engine rotates but will not start Engine runs with oil pressure light on Engine stalls Engine starts but stops immediately Engine stumbles on acceleration Engine surges while holding accelerator steady Engine will not rotate when attempting to start Oil puddle under engine Pinging or knocking engine sounds during acceleration or uphill Starter motor noisy or excessively rough in engagement

15 18 3 4 14 8 9 10 2 17 13 6 11 12 1 7

....

16 5

Alternator light fails to go out Battery will not hold a charge Alternator light fails to come on when key is turned on

20 19 21

Fuel system Excessive fuel consumption Fuel leakage and/or fuel odor

22 23

Cooling system Coolant loss External coolant leakage Internal coolant leakage Overcooling Overheating Poor coolant circulation

28 26 27 25 24 29

Knocking noise at low speeds Leaks lubricant Locked in second gear Noise most pronounced when turning Noisy in all gears Noisy in neutral with engine running Noisy in one particular gear Slips out of gear Vibration

41 50 51 42 48 46 47 49 45

Automatic transaxle Engine will start in gears other than Park or Neutral Fluid leakage General shift mechanism problems Transaxle fluid brown or has burned smell Transaxle slips, shifts roughly, is noisy or has no drive in forward or reverse gears Transaxle will not downshift with accelerator pedal pressed to the floor

56 52 54 53 57 55

Clicking noise in turns Shudder or vibration during acceleration Vibration at highway speeds

58 59 60

Brakes Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed Brake pedal travels to the floor with little resistance Brake roughness or chatter (pedal pulsates) Dragging brakes Excessive brake pedal travel Excessive pedal effort required to stop vehicle Grabbing or uneven braking action Noise (high-pitched squeal when the brakes are applied) Parking brake does not hold Vehicle pulls to one side during braking

....

68 69 63 66 65 64 67 62 70 61

Suspension and steering systems

Clutch 39 ....

35 31 32 36 40 38 33 30 37 34

Manual transaxle Clicking noise in turns Clunk on acceleration or deceleration

Section

Driveaxles

Engine electrical system

Clutch pedal stays on floor Clutch slips (engine speed increases with no increase in vehicle speed Fluid in area of master cylinder dust cover and on pedal Fluid on release cylinder Grabbing (chattering) as clutch is engaged High pedal effort Noise in clutch area Pedal feels spongy when depressed Pedal travels to floor — no pressure or very little resistance Transaxle rattling (clicking) Unable to select gears

Symptom

44 43

Abnormal or excessive tire wear Abnormal noise at the front end Cupped tires Erratic steering when braking Excessive pitching and/or rolling around corners or during braking Excessive play or looseness in steering system Excessive tire wear on inside edge Excessive tire wear on outside edge Hard steering Poor returnability of steering to center Rattling or clicking noise in rack and pinion Shimmy, shake or vibration Suspension bottoms Tire tread worn in one place Vehicle pulls to one side Wander or poor steering stability Wheel makes a thumping noise

72 77 82 79 80 86 84 83 75 76 87 74 81 85 71 78 73

Troubleshooting 21 This section provides an easy reference guide to the more common problems which may occur during the operation of your vehicle. These problems and their possible causes are grouped under headings denoting various components or systems, such as Engine, Cooling system, etc. They also refer you to the chapter and/or section which deals with the problem. Remember that successful troubleshooting is not a mysterious black art practiced only by professional mechanics. It is simply the result of the right knowledge combined with an intelligent, systematic approach to the problem. Always work by a process of elimination, starting with the simplest solution and working through to the most complex — and never overlook the obvious. Anyone can run the gas tank dry or leave the lights on overnight, so don't assume that you are exempt from such oversights. Finally, always establish a clear idea of why a problem has occurred

5

Starter motor noisy or excessively rough in engagement

1 2

Pinion or flywheel gear teeth worn or broken (Chapter 5). Starter motor mounting bolts loose or missing (Chapter 5).

6

Engine starts but stops immediately

1

Loose or faulty electrical connections at distributor, coil or alternator (Chapter 5). 2 Insufficient fuel reaching the fuel injector(s) (Chapters 1 and 4). 3 Vacuum leak at the gasket between the intake manifold/plenum and throttle body (Chapters 1 and 4).

and take steps to ensure that it doesn't happen again. If the electrical system fails because of a poor connection, check the other connections in the system to make sure that they don't fail as well. If a particular fuse continues to blow, find out why — don't just replace one fuse after another. Remember, failure of a small component can often be indicative of potential failure or incorrect functioning of a more important component or system.

Engine 1

1 2 3 4 5

1 2 3 4 5

Oil pan gasket and/or oil pan drain bolt washer leaking (Chapter 2) Oil pressure sending unit leaking (Chapter 2). Cylinder head covers leaking (Chapter 2). Engine oil seals leaking (Chapter 2). Oil pump housing leaking (Chapter 2).

8

Engine lopes while idling or idles erratically

1 Vacuum leakage (Chapters 2 and 4). 2 Leaking EGR valve (Chapter 6). 3 Air filter clogged (Chapter 1). 4 Fuel pump not delivering sufficient fuel to the fuel injection system (Chapter 4). 5 Leaking head gasket (Chapter 2). 6 Timing belt and/or pulleys worn (Chapter 2). 7 Camshaft lobes worn (Chapter 2).

9

Engine misses at idle speed

1 2 3 4 5

Spark plugs worn or not gapped properly (Chapter 1). Faulty spark plug wires (Chapter 1). Vacuum leaks (Chapter 1). Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter 1). Uneven or low compression (Chapter 2).

Engine rotates but will not start

1 Fuel tank empty. 2 Battery discharged (engine rotates slowly) (Chapter 5). 3 Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 1). 4 Leaking fuel injector(s), faulty cold start valve, fuel pump, pressure regulator, etc. (Chapter 4). 5 Fuel not reaching fuel rail (Chapter 4). 6 Ignition components damp or damaged (Chapter 5). 7 Worn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1). 8 Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit (Chapter 5). 9 Loose distributor is changing ignition timing (Chapter 5). 10 Broken, loose or disconnected wires at the ignition coil or faulty coil (Chapter 5).

3

Oil puddle under engine

Engine will not rotate when attempting to start

1 Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 1). 2 Battery discharged or faulty (Chapter 1 ). 3 Automatic transmission not completely engaged in Park (Chapter 7) or clutch not completely depressed (Chapter 8). 4 Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit (Chapters 5 and 12). 5 Starter motor pinion jammed in flywheel ring gear (Chapter 5). 6 Starter solenoid faulty (Chapter 5). 7 Starter motor faulty (Chapter 5). 8 Ignition switch faulty (Chapter 12). 9 Starter pinion or flywheel teeth worn or broken (Chapter 5).

2

7

Engine hard to start when cold Battery discharged or low (Chapter 1). Malfunctioning fuel system (Chapter 4). Faulty cold start injector (Chapter 4). Injector(s) leaking (Chapter 4). Distributor rotor carbon tracked (Chapter 5).

10

1 Fuel filter clogged and/or impurities in the fuel system (Chapter 1 ). 2 Low fuel output at the injector(s) (Chapter 4). 3 Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1). 4 Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter 5). 5 Cracked distributor cap, disconnected distributor wires or damaged distributor components (Chapters 1 and 5). 6 Leaking spark plug wires (Chapters 1 or 5). 7 Faulty emission system components (Chapter 6). 8 Low or uneven cylinder compression pressures (Chapter 2). 9 Weak or faulty ignition system (Chapter 5). 10 Vacuum leak in fuel injection system, intake manifold, air control valve or vacuum hoses (Chapter 4).

11 4

Engine hard to start when hot

1 2 3

Air filter dogged (Chapter 1). Fuel not reaching the fuel injection system (Chapter 4). Corroded battery connections, especially ground (Chapter 1).

Engine misses throughout driving speed range

1 2 3 4 5

Engine stumbles on acceleration Spark plugs fouled (Chapter 1). Fuel injection system needs adjustment or repair (Chapter 4). Fuel filter clogged (Chapters 1 and 4). Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter 5). Intake manifold air leak (Chapters 2 and 4).

Troubleshooting

22

12

Engine surges while holding eccelerator steady

1 2 3 4

Intake air leak (Chapter 4). Fuel pump faulty (Chapter 4). Loose fuel injector wire harness connectors (Chapter 4). Defective ECU (Chapter 6).

13

Engine stalls

1 Idle speed incorrect (Chapter 1 ). 2 Fuel filter clogged and/or water and impurities in the fuel system (Chapters 1 and 4). 3 Distributor components damp or damaged (Chapter 5). 4 Faulty emissions system components (Chapter 6). 5 Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1). 6 Faulty spark plug wires (Chapter 1). 7 Vacuum leak in the fuel injection system, intake manifold or vacuum hoses (Chapters 2 and 4). 8 Valve clearances incorrectly set (Chapter 1).

14

4 5

Faulty oil pressure sender (Chapter 2). Worn engine bearings and/or oil pump (Chapter 2).

18

Engine diesels (continues to run) after switching off

1 2

Idle speed too high (Chapter 1). Excessive engine operating temperature (Chapter 3).

Engine electrical system 19 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

Battery will not hold a charge Alternator drivebelt defective or not adjusted properly (Chapter 1 ). Battery electrolyte level low (Chapter 1). Battery terminals loose or corroded (Chapter 1). Alternator not charging properly (Chapter 5). Loose, broken or faulty wiring in the charging circuit (Chapter 5). Short in vehicle wiring (Chapter 12). Internally defective battery (Chapters 1 and 5).

Engine lacks power

1 Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter 5). 2 Excessive play in distributor shaft (Chapter 5). 3 Worn rotor, distributor cap or wires (Chapters 1 and 5). 4 Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1). 5 Fuel injection system out of adjustment or excessively worn (Chapter 4). 6 Faulty coil (Chapter 5). 7 Brakes binding (Chapter 9). 8 Automatic transaxle fluid level incorrect (Chapter 1). 9 Clutch slipping (Chapter 8). 10 Fuel filter clogged and/or impurities in the fuel system (Chapters 1 and 4). 1 1 Emission control system not functioning properly (Chapter 6). 12 Low or uneven cylinder compression pressures (Chapter 2).

20 1 2 3

21 1 2

Alternator light fails to go out Faulty alternator or charging circuit (Chapter 5). Alternator drivebelt defective or out of adjustment (Chapter 1 Alternator voltage regulator inoperative (Chapter 5).

Alternator light fails to come on when key is turned on Warning light bulb defective (Chapter 12). Fault in the printed circuit, dash wiring or bulb holder (Chapter 1 2).

Fuel system 15

Engine backfires

1 Emission control system not functioning properly (Chapter 6). 2 Ignition timing incorrect (Chapter 5). 3 Faulty secondary ignition system (cracked spark plug insulator, faulty plug wires, distributor cap and/or rotor) (Chapters 1 and 5). 4 Fuel injection system in need of adjustment or worn excessively (Chapter 4). 5 Vacuum leak at fuel injector(s), intake manifold, air control valve or vacuum hoses (Chapters 2 and 4). 6 Valve clearances incorrectly set and/or valves sticking (Chapter 1 ).

22

1 Dirty or clogged air filter element (Chapter 1). 2 Incorrectly set ignition timing (Chapter 5). 3 Emissions system not functioning properly (Chapter 6). 4 terFuel 4). injection internal parts excessively worn or damaged (Chap5

23 16

Pinging or knocking engine sounds during acceleration or uphill

1 2 3 4 5 6 7

Incorrect grade of fuel. Ignition timing incorrect (Chapter 5). Fuel injection system in need of adjustment (Chapter 4). Improper or damaged spark plugs or wires (Chapter 1). Worn or damaged distributor components (Chapter 5). Faulty emission system (Chapter 6). Vacuum leak (Chapters 2 and 4).

17 1 2 3

Engine runs with oil pressure light on Low oil level (Chapter 1). Idle rpm below specification (Chapter 1). Short in wiring circuit (Chapter 12).

Excessive fuel consumption

1 2 3 4

Low tire pressure or incorrect tire size (Chapter 1).

Fuel leakage and/or fuel odor Leaking fuel feed or return line (Chapters 1 and 4). Tank overfilled. Evaporative canister filter clogged (Chapters 1 and 6). Fuel injector internal parts excessively worn (Chapter 4).

Cooling system 24 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

Overheating Insufficient coolant in system (Chapter 1). Water pump drivebelt defective or out of adjustment (Chapter 1 ). Radiator core blocked or grille restricted (Chapter 3). Thermostat faulty (Chapter 3). Electric coolant fan blades broken or cracked (Chapter 3). Radiator cap not maintaining proper pressure (Chapter 3). Ignition timing incorrect (Chapter 5).

Troubleshooting 23 25 1 2

26 1 2 3 4

27 1 2

28 1 2 3 4

29 1 2 3 4

Overcooling Faulty thermostat (Chapter 3). Inaccurate temperature gauge sending unit (Chapter 3)

Deteriorated/damaged hoses; loose clamps (Chapters 1 and 3). Water pump seal defective (Chapter 3). Leakage from radiator core or coolant reservoir bottle (Chapter 3). Engine drain or water jacket core plugs leaking (Chapter 2).

Internal coolant leakage Leaking cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2). Cracked cylinder bore or cylinder head (Chapter 2).

Coolant loss Too much coolant in system (Chapter 1). Coolant boiling away because of overheating (Chapter 3). Internal or external leakage (Chapter 3). Faulty radiator cap (Chapter 3).

Poor coolant circulation Inoperative water pump (Chapter 3). Restriction in cooling system (Chapters 1 and 3). Water pump drivebelt defective/out of adjustment (Chapter 1 Thermostat sticking (Chapter 3).

Pedal travels to floor — no pressure or very little resistance

1 Master or release cylinder faulty (Chapter 8). 2 Hose/pipe burst or leaking (Chapter 8). 3 Connections leaking (Chapter 8). 4 No fluid in reservoir (Chapter 8). 5 If fluid level in reservoir rises as pedal is depressed, master cylinder center valve seal is faulty (Chapter 8). 6 If there is fluid on dust seal at master cylinder, piston primary seal is leaking (Chapter 8). 7 Broken release bearing or fork (Chapter 8).

31

Fluid in area of master cylinder dust cover and on pedal Rear seal failure in master cylinder (Chapter 8).

32

Fluid on release cylinder Release cylinder plunger seal faulty (Chapter 8).

33

Unable to select gears

1 2 3 4 5

Faulty transaxle (Chapter 7). Faulty clutch disc (Chapter 8). Fork and bearing not assembled properly (Chapter 8). Faulty pressure plate (Chapter 8). Pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts loose (Chapter 8).

External coolant leakage

Clutch 30

34

Pedal feels spongy when depressed Air in system (Chapter 8).

35

Clutch slips (engine speed increases with no increase in vehicle speed)

1 Clutch plate worn (Chapter 8). 2 Clutch plate is oil soaked by leaking rear main seal (Chapter 8). 3 Clutch plate not seated. It may take 30 or 40 normal starts for a new one to seat. 4 Warped pressure plate or flywheel (Chapter 8). 5 Weak diaphragm spring (Chapter 8). 6 Clutch plate overheated. Allow to cool.

36 1 2 3 4 5

37 1 2 3

38 1 2

39

Grabbing (chattering) as clutch is engaged Oil on clutch plate lining, burned or glazed facings (Chapter 8). Worn or loose engine or transaxle mounts (Chapters 2 and 7). Worn splines on clutch plate hub (Chapter 8). Warped pressure plate or flywheel (Chapter 8). Burned or smeared resin on flywheel or pressure plate (Chapter 8).

Transaxle rattling (clicking) Release fork loose (Chapter 8). Clutch plate damper spring failure (Chapter 8). Low engine idle speed (Chapter 1).

Noise in clutch area Fork shaft improperly installed (Chapter 8). Faulty bearing (Chapter 8).

Clutch pedal stays on floor

1 2

Piston binding in bore (Chapter 8). Broken release bearing or fork (Chapter 8).

40

High pedal effort

1 2 3

Piston binding in bore (Chapter 8). Pressure plate faulty (Chapter 8). Incorrect size master or release cylinder (Chapter 8).

Manual transaxle 41 1 2

42

Knocking noise a: low speeds Worn driveaxle constant velocity (CV) joints (Chapter 8). Worn side gear shaft counterbore in differential case (Chapter 7A).

Noise most pronounced when turning Differential gear noise (Chapter 7A).


5W-30

'I

I

I

I

I

I

I

°F

-20

0

20

40

60

80

100

°C

-29

-18

-7

4

16

27

38

TEMPERATURE

RANGE

Fuel Automatic transaxle fluid type Automatic transaxle differential fluid type . Manual transaxle lubricant type Front wheel drive models Four-cylinder engines V6 engine All-wheel drive models All-wheel drive transfer case lubricant type All-wheel drive rear differential oil type . . . Brake fluid type Clutch fluid type Power steering system fluid

RECOMMENDED ENGINE OIL VISCOSITY

ANTICIPATED

BEFORE

NEXT

OIL

CHANGE

Unleaded gasoline, 87 octane or higher Dexron II automatic transmission fluid Dexron II automatic transmission fluid

Dexron II automatic transmission fluid API GL-5 SAE 75W90W or 80W90W API GL-5 SAE 75W90W or 80W90W API GL-5 SAE 75W90W or 80W90W API GL-5 SAE 75W90W or 80W90W DOT 3 brake fluid DOT 3 brake fluid Dexron II automatic transmission fluid

gear gear gear gear

oil oil oil oil

21 26 5 15

35 9

28

Chapter 1

Tune-up

Ignition system Spark plug type and gap Spark plug wire resistance Ignition timing Engine firing order Four-cylinder engine V6 engine

and routine maintenance

Refer to the emission control information label in the engine compartment Less than 25000 ohms Refer to the emission control information label in the engine compartment

1-3-4-2 1 -2-3-4-5-6

Cooling system Thermostat rating Starts to open Fully open

190°F (88 °C) 212°F (100°C)

Accessory drivebelt tension (with Burroughs BTG-20 95506-00020 Nippondenso BT-33-73F tension gauge) — used belt Four-cylinder engine Power steering pump Alternator Air conditioning compressor V6 engine Power steering pump Alternator Air conditioning compressor

or

80 + 20 lbs 1 25 ± 25 lbs 95 + 20 lbs 80 + 20 lbs 1 1 5 ± 20 lbs 95 ± 20 lbs

Clutch Clutch pedal Free play Pedal height Pushrod play at pedal top (1987 on)

13/64 to 39/64 in (5 to 15 mm) 7.5 to 7.8 in (191 to 201 mm) 3/64 to 13/64 in (1.0 to 5.0 mm)

Brakes Disc brake pad lining thickness (minimum) Drum brake shoe lining thickness (minimum) Parking brake adjustment

0.040 in (1 mm) 0.040 in (1 mm) 5 to 8 clicks

Suspension and steering Steering wheel free play limit Balljoint allowable movement Ground clearance 1983 through 1986 1987 on Sedan Wagon Wheel runout limit 1983 through 1986 1987 on

1-3/16 in (30 mm) 0 in (0 mm) Front 8.54 in (217mm)

Rear 10.28 in (261 mm)

9.17 in (233 mm) 9.09 in (231 mm)

10.24 in (260 mm) 11.42 in (290 mm)

0.047 in (1.2 mm) 0.039 in (1.0 mm)

General Valve clearances (engine cold) Intake valve Four-cylinder engine V6 engine Exhaust valve

0.007 to 0.01 1 in (0.19 to 0.29 mm) 0.005 to 0.009 in (0.13 to 0.23 mm)

Four-cylinder engine V6 engine

0.011 to 0.015 in (0.28 to 0.38 mm) 0.01 1 to 0.015 in (0.28 to 0.38 mm)

Torque specifications Automatic transaxle Pan bolts Filter bolt Drain plug Manual transaxle drain and filler plugs Engine mounting center member bolt 1983 through 1986 .. . .... 1987 on Front strut/stabilizer bar bracket-to-body bolts Front suspension lower crossmember-to-body bolt (1987 on) . . Rear suspension lower crossmember-to-body bolt (1987 on) Front-wheel drive models All-wheel drive models Wheel lug nuts

Ft-lbs 4 7 36 36

29 45 45 153

51 117 75

29

Chapter 1 1

Tune-up and routine maintenance of the engine compartment and the underside of the vehicle for the location of various components. Servicing your Camry in accordance with the mileage/time maintenance schedule and the following Sections will provide it with a planned maintenance program that should result in a long and reliable service life. This is a comprehensive plan, so maintaining some items but not others at the specified service intervals will not produce the same results.

Introduction

This chapter is designed to help the home mechanic maintain the Toyota Camry for peak performance, ecomomy, safety and long life. On the following pages is a master maintenance schedule, followed by sections dealing specifically with each item on the schedule. Visual checks, adjustments, component replacement and other helpful items are included. Refer to the accompanying illustrations

As you service your Camry, you will discover that many of the pro-

MANUFACTURERS

PLATE

BRAKE BOOSTER

SPARK PLUGS

CLUTCH

FLUID RESERVOIR

BRAKE FLUIO RESERVOIR

ENGINE OIL FILLER CAP

-AIR CLEANER

POWER STEERING FLUID RESERVOIR -FUSE BLOCK WINDSHIELD FLUID TANK

WASHER

-

ENGINE OIL FILTER RADIATOR

DISTRIBUTOR ENGINE COOLANT

CAP

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID LEVEL DIPSTICK

BATTERY

RESERVOIR ENGINE OIL LEVEL DIPSTICK

1983 through 1986 model engine compartment BRAKE BOOSTER BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR

DISTRIBUTOR

SPARK PLUGS

CLUTCH

FLUID RESERVOIR

CONNECTOR POWER

BOX

STEERING

FLUID RESERVOIR AIR CLEANER FUSIBLE LINKS

FUSE BLOCK

WINDSHIELD WASHER

AND REAR WINDOW

FLUID TANK ENGINE COOLANT

ENGINE OILFILLER CAP ENGINE OIL LEVEL DIPSTICK

BATTERY

ENGINE OIL FILTER RADIATOR

CAP

C0N0ENS0R

COOLING FAN AUTOMATIC

ENGINE COOLING FAN

TRANSMISSION

FLUID LEVEL DIPSTICK

V6 engine compartment

RESERVOIR

30

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136

Chapter 3

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

8.6 Disconnect the coolant bypass hose from the water neck (arrow) — the heater pipe is attached with two nuts 6 Disconnect the coolant bypass hose from the water neck, then remove the two nuts and heater pipe (see illustration) and lift out the pump cover (housing). 7 Thoroughly clean all sealing surfaces (see illustration), removing all traces of old gaskets, sealer and O-rings. 8 Be sure to use new O-rings between the pump cover and engine block and also between the heater pipe and cover. 9 Using a new gasket, install the pump and bolts (see illustrations) and tighten them to the specified torque. 10 Install the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal. 1 1 Refill the cooling system (see Chapter 1 ), run the engine and check for leaks and proper operation.

8.7

Scrape away all traces of metal old gasket, but don't gouge the soft

Refer to illustrations 8.15 and 8.17

16 Thoroughly clean all sealing surfaces, removing all traces of old gaskets, sealer and O-rings. Remove any traces of oil with acetone or lacquer thinner and a clean rag. 1 7 Apply sealer (Toyota no. 08826-00100 or equivalent) to the pump groove using a nozzle cut to a 2-3 mm opening (see illustration). Note: Parts must be assembled within five minutes to prevent the sealer from setting up.

12 13 14 15 the

18 Reinstall the pump and the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal. Tighten the water pump bolts in several steps to the specified torque. 1 9 Refill the cooling system (see Chapter 1 ) and run the engine, checking for leaks and proper operation.

V6 engines Disconnect the negative battery cable and drain the cooling system. Remove the timing belt (see Chapter 2B). Remove the water inlet pipe and thermostat (see Section 3). Remove the seven water pump bolts (see illustration) and separate pump from the engine.

8.9a

8-15

Install these bolts first,

Remove the seven water pump bolts (V6)

8.9b

8.17

then tighten these bolts in the order shown

Apply a 2 to 3 mm

-•wide bead of sealer to the water

pump flange groove

137

Chapter 3

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

Water Temperature Detect Switch (Cooling Fan) Water Temperature Switch (w/AT)

Oil Pressure Switch Water (Coolant) Temperature Sending Unit 9.3a

9

Coolant temperature sending unit — check and replacement

Warning: The engine must be completely cool before removing the sending unit. Antifreeze/coolant is toxic; keep it away from children and pets. Note: The following procedure applies only to the standard analog instruments. The optional digital panel diagnosis requires special equipment the home mechanic is not likely to have.

Check Refer to illustrations 9.3a, 9.3b and 9.3c 1 If the coolant temperature gauge is inoperative, check the fuses first (Chapter 12). 2 If the temperature gauge indicates excessive temperature after running a while, see the Troubleshooting Section in the front of the manual. 3 If the temperature gauge indicates Hot as soon as the engine is started cold, disconnect the wire at the coolant temperature sensor (see illustrations). If the gauge reading drops, replace the sending unit. If the reading remains high, the wire to the gauge. may be shorted to ground or the gauge is faulty. 4 If the coolant temperature gauge fails to show any indication after the engine has been warmed up, (approx. 10 minutes) and the fuses

9.3b The coolant temperature sensor (arrow) on the 3S-FE engine is located under the bypass housing, above the starter (radiator hose removed for clarity)

Water (coolant) temperature sending unit location — 2S-E engine

checked out OK, shut off the engine. Disconnect the wire at the sending unit and, using a jumper wire, connect it to a clean ground on the engine. Briefly turn on the ignition without starting the engine. If the gauge now indicates Hot, replace the sending unit. 5 If the gauge still does not work, the circuit may be open or the gauge may be faulty — see Chapter 12 for additional information.

Replacement 6 7 8 9 as 10 for

10

Drain the coolant (see Chapter 1). Unplug the wiring connector from the sending unit. Using a deep socket or a wrench, unscrew the sending unit. Install the new unit and tighten it securely. Do not use thread sealer it may electrically insulate the sending unit. Reconnect the wiring connector, refill the cooling system and check coolant leakage and gauge function.

Blower unit — removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 10.2a, 10.2b, 10.2c, 10.2d, 10.2e, 10.2f, 10. 2g and 10.4 1 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.

9.3c On the V6 engine, the coolant temperature sensor is located under the bypass housing, above the exhaust crossover pipe — remove the heat shield bolts (arrows) and detach the shield for access

138

Chapter 3

10.2a On early models, remove the right lower extension panel, . . .

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

10.2b

unscrew the lower support.

10. 2e On later models, remove the glove compartment liner, . . .

10. 2d . . . and the right speaker grille to gain access to the blower unit

10.2c

10. 2f

. . . remove the glove box

. . . the glove compartment door . . .

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Number

Code No.

System

"CHECK ENGINE" blinks ON

1

of

ON

ON

ON

ON

f]OFF fl OFF R OFF R OFF fl

This appears when none of the other codes (2 thru 1 1 ) are identified. • Vc circuit open or

Normal

FI0840

Air flow 2

Vs - E2 short circuited. • E2 circuit open or Vc - Vs short circuited.

meter FI0841

3

Diagnosis

signal

No signal from igniter four times in succession.

Ignition signal FI0842

4

Water temp,

JUl^JMLJ

sensor

FI0843

5

JUUUULJUUUUL FI0844

6

JUUUUUl

Open or short circuit in water temp, sensor signal.

lUUUUUl

signal Oxygen sensor signal RPM signal

FI0845

juuuuuui

iuuuui FI0846

8

MMMJl

un FI0847

9

JUUW1W

HJUl

signal Intake air temp, sensor signal Vehicle speed sensor signal

IMMMMfl

IUI

No Ne signal to ECU while cranking, or Ne value over 1,000 rpm in spite of no Ne signal to ECU.

1 . Distributor circuit 2. Distributor

Open or short circuit in intake air

3. Igniter 4. Starter signal circuit 5. ECU 1 . Throttle position sensor circuit 2. Throttle position sensor 3. ECU 1 . Air temp, sensor

temperature sensor.

circuit 2. ECU

Signal informing ECU that vehicle stopped had been input to ECU for 8 seconds with engine running

1 . Vehicle speed sensor circuit 2. Vehicle sensor 3. ECU

Starter

No STA signal to ECU when vehicle stopped

signal

and engine running over 800 rpm.

FI0849

Switch

11

1 . Ignition circuit (+B, IGf, IGt) 2. Igniter 3. ECU 1 . Water temp, sensor circuit 2. Water temp, sensor 3. ECU

between 2,400 - 5,000 rpm

FI0848

10

1 . Air flow meter circuit 2. Airflow meter 3. ECU

1 . Oxygen sensor circuit 2. Oxygen sensor 3. ECU

Open or short circuit in throttle position sensor signal.

position sensor

—

Open circuit in oxygen sensor signal (only lean indication).

Throttle 7

Trouble area

signal

Air conditioner switch ON, idle switch OFF or shift position in any position other than P or N range during diagnosis check.

FI085C

1 . Starter relay circuit 2. IG switch circuit (starter) 3. IG Switch 4. ECU 1 . Air conditioner S/W 2. Throttle position sensor circuit 3. Throttle position sensor 4. Neutral start switch 5. ECU

3.4b

Trouble code chart for 1986 US vehicles

189

Code No. —

Number of CHECK ENGINE blinks

Diagnosis

Trouble area

Normal

This appears when none of the other codes (1 1 thru 51 ) are identified.

—

ECU(+B)

Wire severence, however slight, in+B(ECU).

System

nnnnnnnn?FNr nn

FIT 401

11

3. ECU

FI1388

12

n nn

RPM signal

No NE, G signal to ECU within several seconds after engine is cranked.

1 . Distributor circuit 2. Distributor 3. starter signal circuit 4. ECU

RPM signal

No NE signal to ECU within several seconds after engine reaches 1,000 rpm.

Same as 12, above.

Ignition signal

No signal from igniter 4 — 5 times in succession.

1. Igniter circuit (+B, IGT, IGF) 2. Igniter 3. ECU

Oxygen sensor

Open circuit in oxygen sensor signal (only lean indication).

1 . Oxygen sensor circuit 2. Oxygen sensor 3. ECU

Open or short circuit in water temp, sensor signal (THW) .

1 . Water temp, sensor circuit 2. Water temp, sensor 3. ECU

Open or short circuit in intake air temp, sensor (THA).

1. Intake air temp, sensor circuit 2. Intake air temp, sensor 3. ECU

Air flow meter signal

VC circuit short circuit.open or VC— E2

1 . Air flow meter circuit 2. Air flow meter 3. ECU

Air flow meter signal

E2 circuit open or VC— VS short circuited

Same as 31, above.

FI1389

13

nnnn FI1390

14

n nnnn FI1391

21

nn n FI1140

22

nnnn

signal Water temp, sensor signal

FI1392

24

Intake air temp, sensor

_fUUUUUL FI1611

31

nnnn

signal

FI1394

32

nnnnn

FI1395

Throttle 41

nnnnn

position sensor FI1396

42

nnnn nn

nnnn nnn

Open or short circuit in throttle position sensor signal (VTA).

signal

Vehicle speed sensor signal

Signal informing ECU that vehicle stopped has been input to ECU for 5 seconds with engine running between 2,500 — 5,500 rpm.

Starter

No STA signal to ECU when vehicle stopped and engine running over 800 rpm

FI1397

43

signal

FI1398

51

nnnnn n

Air conditioner switch ON, Switch signal

FI1399

3.4c

1 . Main relay circuit 2. Main relay

idle switch OFF or shift position other than P or N range during diagnosis check.

1 . Throttle position sensor circuit 2. Throttle position sensor 3. ECU 1 . Vehicle speed sensor circuit 2. Vehicle speed sensor 3. ECU 1 . Main relay circuit 2. IG switch circuit (starter) 3. IG switch 4. ECU 1 . Air con. 2. Throttle circuit 3. Throttle 4. Neutral 5. ECU

Trouble code chart for all 1987 and later vehicles (four-cylinder engines)

switch position sensor position sensor. start switch

190 Code No. —

Number of Check engine blinks

System

nnnnnnniL

Normal

FI1401

11

n.n

Diagnosis

Trouble area

This appears when none of the other codes are identified.

—

Momentary interruption in power supply to ECU.

ECU (+B)

• Ignition switch circuit • Ignition switch ECU relay •• Main relay circuit

FI1605

12

nnn

PRM

Signal

engine has been cranked.

FI1606

13

n nnn

RPM

Signal

FI1607

14

nnnnn FI1608

Ignition Signal

^UU^ FI1610

24

Detection of oxygen sensor, detrioration.

Oxygen Sensor Heater Signal Water Temp. Sensor Signal Intake Air Temp. Sensor

njuuuui FI1611

Signal

Open or short circuit in oxygen sensor heater signal (HT).

nn nnnnn

Air-fuel Ratio Lean Malfunction

FI2562

26

Distributor circuit Distributor ECU Starter signal circuit

• circuit • Distributor ECU • Distributor

• Igniter and ignition coil • circuit ECU • Igniter and ignition coil • ECU • Oxygen sensor circuit • Oxygen sensor

Air-fuel Ratio Rich Malfunction

nn nnnnnn

FI2563

3.4d

• Oxygen sensor heater • circuit ECU • Oxygen sensor heater

Open or short circuit in water temp, sensor signal (THW).

• • •

Open or short circuit in intake air temp, sensor signal (THA).

• Intake air temp, sensor • circuit ECU • Intake air temp, sensor

(California vehicles) • When air-fuel ratio feedback correction value or 25

• • • •

Signal

nnn FI1609

22

No "NE" signal to ECU when engine speed is above 1,000 rpm. No "IGF" signal to ECU 6-8 times in succession.

Oxygen Sensor 21

No "NE" or "G" signal to ECU within 2 seconds after

adaptive control value continues at the upper (lean) or lower (rich) limit for a certain period of time or adaptive control value is not renewed for a certain period of time. • When feedback frequency of air-fuel ratio feedback correction or adaptive control is abnormally high during feedback condition, (ex. California vehicles) • Oxygen sensor outputs a lean signal continuosly for several seconds during air-fuel ratio feedback correction. • Open circuit in oxygen sensor signal (OX).

V6 engine trouble code chart (1 of 2)

Water temp, sensor ECU circuit Water temp, sensor

• • Injector Injector circuit • Fuel line pressure • Air flow meter • Air intake system • • •

Oxygen sensor circuits ECU Oxygen sensors Ignition system

•• Injector Injector circuit • •• •

Fuel line pressure Air ECU flow meter Cold start injector

J

191

Chapter 6 Number of Check engine blinks

Code No.

*27

RJUU1MMJL

JJUU1

Sub-oxygen Sensor Signal

Open or short circuit in sub-oxygen sensor signal (0X2)

• ECU Sub-oxygen • Sub-oxygen

Air flow Meter Signal

Open circuit in VC signalor short circuit between VS and E2 when idle contacts are closed.

• Air ECU flow meter circuit • Air flow meter

Air Flow Meter Signal

Open circuit in E2 or short circuit between VC and VS.

Throttle Position Sensor Signal

Open or short circuit in throttle position sensor signal (VTA).

• • •

Vehicle Speed Sensor Signal

No "SP1" signal for 8 seconds when engine speed in between 2,500 rpm and 4,500 rpm and coolant temp,

• No. 1 vehicle sensor (Meter • • No. ECU 1 vehicle sensor (Meter

FI1612

32

^^U in

Trouble area

Diagnosis

System

FI3294

31

Emissions control systems

sensor circuit sensor

•• Air ECU flow meter circuit • Air flow meter

FI1613

nn^ Ifl

41

FIT 61 4

42

43

FI1615

is below 80°C (176°F) except when racing the engine.

FI1616

No "STA" signal to ECU until engine speed reaches 800 rpm with vehicle not moving.

_J¥UUUUUL

*71

\Im fill f

EGR System Malfunction

Lr

-

Starter Signal

Throttle position sensor circuit ECU Throttle position sensor speed side) circuit speed side)

• Ignition ECU switch circuit • Ignition switch • EGR valve • EGR hose • EGR gas temp, sensor circuit

EGR gas temp, below predetermined level during EGR operation.

• • • •

EGR gas temp, sensor BVSV for EGR ECU BVSV circuit for EGR

FI2622

• A/C switch circuit • A/C switch • A/C amplifire

51

JUWll fUl_

Switch Signal

No "IDL" signal, "NSW" signal or "A/C" signal to ECU, with the check terminals E1 and TE1 shorted.

• Throttle position sensor circuit • Throttle position sensor • Neutral start switch circuit • Neutral start switch pedal and • Acceleration ECU cable

FI1617

California vehicles only 3 4e

V6 engine trouble code chart (2 of 2)

5 If there are any malfunctions in the system, their corresponding trouble codes are stored in computer memory and the light indicates the numbers of these codes by blinking the same number of times as the number of the stored code(s). a) On 1983 through 1986 vehicles, the number of blinks (any number between 1 and 1 1) indicates the number of the stored trouble code. For example, seven blinks indicates a Code No. 7, 1 1 blinks indicates a Code 1 1 , etc. There is a 3.0-second pause between each trouble code displayed, then the next code stored in memory is displayed, then there is another 3.0-second pause, etc. If there is only one code stored, the "Check Engine" light will simply pause, then repeat the code already indicated. Whether there is one code — or several — stored in memory, the "Check Engine" light repeats its display as long as the service connector terminals are jumpered, b) On 1987 and later vehicles, new codes were added and the

code numbers

were changed (from 11 to 51). Obviously, it

wouldn't be practical to display a 51 -blink trouble code, so the light blinks a number of times corresponding to each digit of the number. In other words, the first number of blinks indicates the first digit of the (two-digit) trouble code, there is a 1.5-second pause then the next sequence of blinks indicates the second digit of the trouble code. For example, Code 21 is two blinks, blinks; etc. pause, one blink; Code 42 is four blinks, pause, two 6 To ensure correct interpretation of the blinking "Check Engine" light, watch carefully for the interval between the end of one code and the beginning of the next (otherwise, you will become confused by the apparent number of blinks and misinterpret the display). The length of this interval varies with the model year: a) On all 1 983 through 1 985 vehicles and 1 986 Canada vehicles,

Chapter 6

192

Emissions control systems

ECU+B Fuse 1 5A

3.7b The ECU fuse is located in the fuse panel on the driver's side of the engine compartment on all 1987 and later vehicles

3.7a The "ECU + B" fuse (labelled "ECU -B" on 1986 vehicles) is located in the fuse panel behind the driver's side kick panel on all 1983 through 1986 vehicles

a) On 1983 through 1986 vehicles, the fuse is located in the fuse

the interval between codes- between each code and between the end of the last code stored and the first of a sequence of codes previously displayed - is 3.0 seconds, b) On 1986 US vehicles and all 1987 and later vehicles, the interval between codes is 2.5 seconds. After the last code, there is

panel behind the driver's side kick panel. On 1983 through 1985 vehicles, it is labelled "ECU +B"; on 1986 vehicles, it is labelled "ECU -B" (see illustration). b) On all 1987 and later vehicles, the fuse is located .^==.

from the floor

flanges (Chapter 8 Part A, Section 1 0) and hang the inner ends of the driveaxles out of the way with pieces of wire. 4 Remove the rear crossmember (see illustration). 5 Mark the relationship of the driveshaft rear flange to the differential companion flange. Remove the driveshaft-to-differential companion flange bolts and nuts and disconnect the driveshaft from the differential. Support the driveshaft with a piece of wire — don't let it hang free, as this could damage the cross groove joint at the front of the rear driveshaft. 6 Support the differential carrier with a floor jack. 7 Remove the two rear differential carrier mounting bolts (see illustration). 8 Remove the four differential carrier mounting bolts and nuts from underneath the differential (see illustration). 9 Carefully lower the differential to the ground. 10 Due to the complex nature, critical adjustments and special tools necessary to overhaul the differential assembly, it is recommended that the unit be taken to a Toyota service department or qualified garage for repairs. 1 1 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Be sure to tighten the mounting bolts to the specified torque and fill the differential with the recommended lubricant (Chapter 1).

7.8

8

Make sure the differential carrier is balanced on the jack, then remove the bolts and nuts

Rear driveaxle boot replacement and CV joint overhaul

The rear driveaxles on all-wheel drive models are the same as the front driveaxles on front wheel drive models. Refer to Chapter 8, Part A, for the boot replacement and CV joint overhaul procedures. The removal and installation procedures are also the same as the procedures for the front driveaxles. See General information (Section 1 ) for additional information.

Chapter 9

Brakes

Contents Anti-lock brake system tABS) — general information 2 Brake check See Chapter 1 Brake disc — inspection, removal and installation 5 Brake fluid level check See Chapter 1 Brake hoses and lines — inspection and replacement 10 Brake hydraulic system — bleeding ■ . . 11 Brake light switch — removal, installation and adjustment ... 17 Brake pedal — removal, installation and adjustment 16 Disc brake caliper — removal, overhaul and installation 4 Disc brake pads — replacement 3 Drum brake shoes — replacement 6

General information Load Sensing Proportioning Valve (L.SPV) — general information Master cylinder — removal, overhaul and installation Parking brake — adjustment Parking brake cables — replacement Parking brake shoes (rear disc brakes only) — replacement Power brake booster — check, removal and installation Wheel cylinder — removal, overhaul and installation

Specifications

General Brake fluid type Brake pedal Pedal height - 1986 and earlier Pedal height - 1987 and later Pedal free play Reserve distance (at 110 lbs of force) 1 986 and earlier 1 987 and later Power brake booster pushrod-to-master cylinder piston clearance

See Chapter 1 7.36 to 7.75 in (187.0 to 197.0 mm) 6.98 to 7.38 in (177.5 to 187.5 mm) 0.1 2 to 0.24 in (3 to 6 mm) 3.54 in (90 mm) or more 3.35 in (85 mm) or more 0.0 in (0.0 mm)

Disc brakes Minimum brake pad thickness Front brake disc Standard thickness 1987 and earlier 1988 and later Minimum thickness* 1987 and earlier 1988 and later Front disc runout limit 1987 and earlier 1988 and later Rear brake disc Standard thickness Minimum thickness* Rear disc runout limit

See Chapter 1 0.866 in (22.0 mm) 0.984 in (25.0 mm) 0.827 in (21.0 mm) 0.945 in (24.0 mm) 0.005 in (0.13 mm) 0.003 in (0.08 mm) 0.394 in (10.0 mm) 0.354 in (9.00 mm) 0.006 in (0.15 mm)

* Refer to marks cast into the center of the disc (they supersede information printed here)

Drum brakes Drum inside diameter Standard 1 986 and earlier 1 987 and later Maximum* 1986 and earlier 1 987 and later

7.874 in (200.0 mm) 9.000 in (228.6 mm) . 7.913 in (201.0 mm) 9.079 in (230.6 mm)

* Refer to marks cast into the drum (they supersede information printed here)

1 9 8 14 15 13 12 7

238

Chapter 9

Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated) 18

Torque specifications Front disc brake caliper mounting bolts 1 986 and earlier 1987 and later

29

Front caliper torque plate-to-steering knuckle 1 986 and earlier 1987 and later Rear disc brake caliper mounting bolts . . . . Rear caliper torque plate-to-axle carrier . . . . Brake hose-to-caliper union bolt Wheel cylinder mounting bolts Master cylinder-to-brake booster Power brake booster mounting nuts , Wheel lug nuts

1

Brakes

79 65 14 22 34 84 in-lbs 108 in-lbs 108 in-lbs 75

General information

The vehicles covered by this manual are equipped with hydraulically operated front and rear brake systems. The front brakes are disc type and the rear brakes are either drum or disc type. Both the front and rear brakes are self adjusting. The disc brakes automatically compensate for pad wear, while the drum brakes incorporate an adjustment mechanism which is activated as the parking brake is applied.

of the brake system, always test drive the vehicle to check for proper braking performance before resuming normal driving. When testing the brakes, perform the tests on a clean, dry flat surface. Conditions other than these can lead to inaccurate test results. Test the brakes at various speeds with both light and heavy pedal pressure. The vehicle should stop evenly without pulling to one side or the other. Avoid locking the brakes, because this slides the tires and diminishes braking efficiency and control of the vehicle. Tires, vehicle load and front-end alignment are factors which also affect braking performance.

Hydraulic system The hydraulic system consists of two separate circuits. The master cylinder has separate reservoirs for the two circuits and in the event of a leak or failure in one hydraulic circuit, the other circuit will remain operative. A load sensing proportioning valve iLSPV) regulates pressure to the rear brakes to prevent them from locking up under heavy braking conditions. Some later models are equipped with an anti-lock braking system (ABS).

2

Anti-lock brake system (ABS) — general information

Power brake booster

The anti-lock brake system was introduced in 1 987 and is designed to maintain vehicle steerability, directional stability and optimum decelleration under severe braking conditions and on most road surfaces. Itdoes so by monitoring the rotational speed of each wheel and controlling the brake line pressure to each wheel during braking. This prevents the wheel from lock up.

The power brake booster, utilizing engine manifold vacuum and atmospheric pressure to provide assistance to the hydraulically operated brakes, is mounted on the firewall in the engine compartment.

Refer to illustrations 2. 1 and 2.2

Parking brake The parking brake operates the rear brakes only, through cable actuation. It's activated by a lever mounted in the center console.

Service After completing any operation involving disassembly of any part

Components

Actuator assembly The actuator assembly consists of the master cylinder, an electric hydraulic pump and four solenoid valves (see illustrations). a) The electric pump provides hydraulic pressure to charge the reservoirs in the actuator, which supply pressure to the braking system. The pump and reservoirs are housed in the actuator assembly.

ANTILOCK

Warning Light

Stop Light Switch A.B.S. Computer

WAGON

ABS

Computer Sensor Rotor Actuator

2.1

Sensor Rotor

Locations of the ABS system components

Speed Sensor Front Speed Sensor Sensor Rotor

239

Chapter 9

Speed Sensors

Front Right Brake Cylinder

Rear Right Brake Cylinder

Rear Left Brake Cylinder 2.2

b) The solenoid valves modulate

Brakes

Schematic

of the ABS

brake line pressure during ABS

operation. The valve body contains four valves — one for each wheel.

Speed sensors Refer to illustrations 2.3 and 2.4 These sensors are located at each wheel and generate small electrical pulsations when the toothed sensor rings are turning, sending a signal to the electronic controller indicating wheel rotational speed. The front wheel sensors (see iilustration) are mounted to the front

Front Left Brake Cylinder

hydraulic system

spindles in close relationship to the toothed sensor rings, which are integral with the front hub assemblies. The rear wheel sensors are bolted to the brake backing plates (see illustration). The sensor rings are integral with the rear hub assemblies. ABS computer The ABS computer

is mounted

in the luggage compartment

and is

the "brain" for the ABS system. The function of the computer is to accept and process information received from the wheel speed sensors to control the hydraulic line pressure, avoiding wheel lock up. The

Front Speed Sensor Assembly Disc Brake O-Ring

Rear Speed Sensor

Backing Plate with Parking Brake Assembly

2.4 2.3

The front speed sensors bolt to the front brake backing plates

The rear brake sensors bolt to the rear brake backing plates

Rear Axle Hub

240

Chapter 9

computer also constantly monitors the system, even under normal driving conditions, to find faults within the system. If a problem develops within the system, an "ANTILOCK" light will glow on the dashboard. A diagnostic code will also be stored in the computer, which, when retrieved by a service technician, will indicate the problem area or component.

Diagnosis and repair If a dashboard warning light comes on and stays on while the vehicle is in operation, the ABS system requires attention. Although a special electronic ABS diagnostic tester is necessary to properly diagnose the system, the home mechanic can perform a few preliminary checks before taking the vehicle to a dealer service department which is equipped with this tester. a) Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. b) Check that the computer master cylinder connectors are securely connected. 0 Check the electrical connectors at the actuator assembly. d) Check the fuses. e) Follow the wiring harness to each wheel and check that all connections are secure and that the wiring is not damaged. If the above preliminary checks do not rectify the problem, the vehicle should be diagnosed by a dealer service department. Due to the complex nature of this system, all actual repair work must be done by a dealer service department.

3

Brakes ing is necessary, follow the information in that Section to remove the disc, at which time the pads can be removed from the calipers as well. 5 Push the piston back into its bore to provide room for the new brake pads. A C-clamp can be used to accomplish this (see illustration). As the piston is depressed to the bottom of the caliper bore, the fluid in the master cylinder will rise. Make sure that it doesn't overflow. If necessary, siphon off some of the fluid. 6 Follow the accompanying photos, beginning with illustration 3.6a, for the actual pad replacement procedure. Be sure to stay in order and read the caption under each illustration. 7 When reinstalling the caliper, be sure to tighten the mounting bolts to the specified torque. After the job has been completed, firmly depress the brake pedal a few times to bring the pads into contact with the disc. Check the level of the brake fluid, adding some if necessary. Check the operation of the brakes carefully before placing the vehicle into normal service.

Disc brake pads — replacement

Refer to illustrations 3.5 and 3.6a through 3.6h Warning: Disc brake pads must be replaced on both front or rear wheels at the same time — never replace the pads on only one wheel. Also, the dust created by the brake system may contain asbestos, which is harmful to your health. Never blow it out with compressed air and don 't inhale any of it. An appro ved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. Do not, under any circumstances, use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts. Use brake cleaner or denatured alcohol only! When servicing the disc brakes, use only high quality, nationally recognized brand-name pads. Note: This procedure applies to both the front and rear disc brakes. 1 Remove the cap from the brake fluid reservoir. 2 Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. 3 Remove the front wheels. Work on one brake assembly at a time, using the assembled brake for reference if necessary. 4 Inspect the brake disc carefully as outlined in Section 5. If machin-

3.6a

Remove the two caliper mounting bolts (arrows)

3.5 Using a large C-clamp, push the piston back into the caliper bore — note that one end of the clamp is on the flat area near the brake hose fitting and the other end (screw end) is pressing against the outer brake pad

3.6b

Pull the caliper straight up and off the disc

Chapter 9

3.6c

Once the caliper is removed from the torque plate,

hang it from the coil spring with a piece of wire — DON'T let it hang by the brake hose!

3.6e

Remove the anti-rattle springs from the brake pads

3.6g Remove the pad support plates from the torque plate — they should be replaced with new ones if distorted in any way

241

Brakes

3.6d Remove the anti-squeal shims from the pads (note how they are positioned — some models have only one shim per pad, others utilize two on the inner pad and one on the outer pad)

3.6f

To remove the pads, slide them to the side then straight out of the torque plate

3.6h Pry the wear indicators off the brake pads and transfer them to the new pads — if they are worn or bent, replace them (the remainder of the brake pad replacement procedure is the reverse of removal)

242

4

Chapter 9

Disc brake caliper — removal, overhaul and installation

Refer to illustrations 4. 1, 4.4a, 4.4b, 4.5, 4. 7, 4.8a and 4.8b Warning: Dust created by the brake system may contain asbestos, which is harmful to your health. Never blow it out with compressed air and dont't inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. Do not, under any circumstances, use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts. Use brake cleaner or denatured alcohol only I. Note: If an overhaul is indicated (usually because of fluid leakage) explore all options before beginning the job. New and factory rebuilt calipers are available on an exchange basis, which makes this job quite

Brakes 6 Inspect the mating surfaces of the piston and caliper bore wall. If there is any scoring, rust, pitting or bright areas, replace the complete caliper unit with a new one. 7 If these components are in good condition, remove the rubber seal from the caliper bore using a wooden or plastic tool (see illustration). Metal tools may damage the cylinder bore. 8 Push the sliding bushings out of the caliper ears (see illustration) and remove the rubber boots from both ends. Slide the bushing sleeves out of the caliper ears (see illustration). 9 Wash all the components in clean brake fluid or alcohol. 10 To reassemble the caliper, you should already have the correct rebuild kit for your vehicle. Note: During reassembly apply silicone

easy. If it's decided to rebuild the calipers, make sure that a rebuild kit is available before proceeding. A/ways rebuild the calipers in pairs — never rebuild just one of them.

Removal 1

Disconnect the brake line from the caliper and plug it to keep contaminants out of the brake system and to prevent losing any more brake fluid than is necessary (see illustration). 2 Refer to Section 3 for either front or rear caliper removal procedures — it's part of the brake pad replacement procedure. 3 On the rear caliper, disconnect the parking brake by removing the clevis pin and the C-clip (see Section 13), then slide the caliper off the caliper guide pin.

Overhaul 4 To overhaul the caliper, remove the rubber boot retaining ring and the rubber boot (see illustrations). Before you remove the piston, place a wood block between the piston and caliper to prevent damage as it is removed. 5 To remove the piston from the caliper, apply compressed air to the brake fluid hose connection on the caliper body (see illustration). Use only enough pressure to ease the piston out of its bore. Warning: Be careful not to place your fingers between the piston and the caliper as the piston may come out with some force.

4.1

Using a piece of rubber hose of the appropriate size, plug the brake line

Brake Hose Gasket Installation Bolt

Pad Support Plate Torque Plate

Pad Wear Indicator Plate

Anti-Squeal Shim

4.4a

Pad Support Plate

Exploded view of the caliper assembly

Dust Boot Slide Bushing Boot Set Ring

243 Chapter 9 based grease (supplied with the rebuild kit) between the sliding bushing and the bushing sleeve. 1 1 Submerge the new rubber sea! and the piston in brake fluid and install them into the caliper bore. Do not force the piston into the bore, but make sure that it is squarely in place, then apply firm (but not excessive) pressure to install it.

Brakes 12 Install the new rubber boot and retaining ring. 13 Lubricate the sliding bushings and sleeves with silicone-based grease (supplied in the kit) and push them into the caliper ears. Install the dust boots.

Installation 14 Install the caliper by reversing the removal procedure. Remember to replace the copper sealing washer on the brake line union bolt (comes with the rebuild kit). 1 5 Bleed the brake circuit according to the procedure in Section 1 1 .

5

Brake disc — inspection, removal and installation

Note: This procedure applies to both the front and rear brake discs (on vehicles so equipped).

Inspection Refer to illustrations 5.2, 5.3, 5.4a, 5.4b, 5.5a and 5.5b 1 Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Remove the wheel and install three lug nuts to hold the disc in place. If the rear brake disc is being worked on, release the

4.4b

Using a screwdriver, remove the cylinder boot set ring

4.5 With the caliper padded to catch the piston, use compressed air to force the piston out of its bore. Make sure your hands or fingers are not between the piston and caliper

4.8a On each side of the caliper, push the sliding bushing up through the boot and pull it free, then remove the dust boots

parking brake. 2 Remove the brake caliper as outlined in Section 4. It is not necessary to disconnect the brake hose. After removing the caliper bolts,

4.7 The piston seal should be removed with a plastic or wooden tool to avoid damage to the bore and seal groove. A pencil will do the job

4.8b

Push the bushing sleeve out of the caliper

244

Chapter 9

suspend the caliper out of the way with a piece of wire (see illustration 3.6c). Remove the two torque plate-to-steering knuckle bolts (see illustration) and remove the torque plate. 3 Visually inspect the disc surface for scoring or damage. Light scratches and shallow grooves are normal after use and may not always

Brakes be detrimental to brake operation, but deep scoring — over 0.01 5 inch (0.38 mm) — requires disc removal and refinishing by an automotive machine shop. Be sure to check both sides of the disc (see illustration). If pulsating has been noticed during application of the brakes, suspect disc runout. 4 To check disc runout, place a dial indicator at a point about 1 /2-inch from the outer edge of the disc (see illustration). Set the indicator to zero and turn the disc. The indicator reading should not exceed the specified allowable runout limit. If it does, the disc should be refinished by an automotive machine shop. Note: It is recommended that the discs be resurfaced regardless of the dial indicator reading, as this will impart a smooth finish and ensure a perfectly flat surface, eliminating any brake pedal pulsation or other undesirable symptoms related to questionable discs. At the very least, if you elect not to have the discs resurfaced, remove the glazing from the surface with emery cloth or sandpaper using a swirling motion (see illustration). 5 It is absolutely critical that the disc not be machined to a thickness under the specified minimum allowable disc refinish thickness. The minimum wear (or discard) thickness is cast into the inside of the disc (see illustration). The disc thickness can be checked with a micrometer (see illustration).

Removal Refer to illustration 5. 6 5.2

The torque plate (caliper mounting bracket) is secured to the steering knuckle with two bolts (arrows)

6 Remove the three lug nuts which were put on to hold the disc in place and remove the disc from the hub. If the disc is stuck to the hub and won't come off, thread three bolts into the holes provided (see

5.3 The brake pads on this vehicle were obviously neglected, as they wore down to the rivets and cut deep grooves into the disc — wear this severe will require replacement of the disc

5.5a The minimum wear dimension is cast into the backside of the disc

5.4a

Use a dial indicator to check disc

runout — if the reading exceeds the maximum allowable runout limit, the disc will have to be machined or replaced

5.5b

Use a micrometer to measure disc thickness

5.4b Using a swirling motion, remove the glaze from the disc surface with sandpaper or emery cloth

5.6 To help free the disc, thread bolts of the appropriate size into the three holes provided in the disc. Alternate between the bolts, turning them a little at a time, until the disc is free

245

Chapter 9 illustration) and tighten them. Alternate between the bolts, turning them a couple of turns at a time, until the disc is free.

Installation 7 8

Place the disc in position over the threaded studs. Install the torque plate and caliper assembly over the disc and position iton the steering knuckle. Tighten the torque plate bolts to the specified torque. 9 Install the wheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground. Depress the brake pedal a few times to bring the brake pads into contact with the disc. Bleeding of the system will not be necessary unless the fluid hose was disconnected from the caliper. Check the operation of the brakes carefully before placing the vehicle into normal service.

6

Drum brake shoes — replacement

Refer to illustrations 6.4a through 6.4y and 6.5 Warning: Drum brake shoes must be replaced on both wheels at the same time — never rep/ace the shoes on only one wheel. Also, the dust created by the brake system may contain asbestos, which is harm-

6.4a Mark the relationship of the drum to the hub, so the adjuster hole in the drum will line up with the large hole in the hub upon installation Plug

Brakes ful to your health. Never blow it out with compressed air and inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask should be worn when ing on the brakes. Do not, under any circumstances, use leum-based solvents to clean brake parts. Use brake cleaner natured alcohol only!

Caution: Whenever the brake shoes are replaced, the retractor and holddown springs should also be replaced. Due to the continuous heating/ cooling cycle that the springs are subjected to, they lose their tension over a period of time and may allow the shoes to drag on the drum and wear at a much faster rate than normal. When replacing the rear brake shoes, use only high quality nationally recognized brand-name parts. 1 Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the rear of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Block the front wheels to keep the vehicle from rolling. 2 Release the parking brake. 3 Remove the wheel . Note: All four rear brake shoes must be replaced at the same time, but to avoid mixing up parts, work on only one brake assembly at a time. 4 Follow the accompanying illustrations (6.4a through 6.4y) for the brake shoe replacement procedure. Be sure to stay in order and read the caption under each illustration. Note: If the brake drum cannot be easily pulled off the axle and shoe assembly, make sure that the parking brake is completely released, then squirt some penetrating oil around the center hub area. Allow the oil to soak in and install two bolts of

6.4b If the brake shoes are hanging up on the drum (because of excessive wear), pull the adjuster lever off the star wheel and turn the star wheel in the correct direction to retract the brake shoes Bleeder Plug

Plug Inspection Hole

Wheel Cylinder

-Q Adjusting Shim Parking Brake Lever Automatic Adjusting Lever ffl C-Washer

Backing Plate

Adjusting Lever Spring

Front Shoe 6.4c

Exploded view of the drum brake assembly

Cup

don't workpetroor de-

Anchor Spring

Shoe Hold-Down Spring

0

246

Chapter 9

the proper size and thread Tighten the bolts a little at drum is free. If the drum will have to be retracted.

pitch into the threaded holes in the drum. a time, alternating between them, until the still cannot be pulled off, the brake shoes This is accomplished by first removing the

Brakes plug from the drum. With the plug removed, pull the lever off the adjusting star wheel with a hooked tool while turning the adjusting' wheel with a screwdriver, moving the shoes away from the drum (see illustration 6.4b). The drum should now come off.

idiw r t . 6.4d Before removing anything, clean the brake assembly with brake cleaner and allow it to dry — position a drain pan under the brake to catch the fluid and residue - DO NOT USE COMPRESSED AIR TO BLOW THE DUST FROM THE PARTS!

6.4e Unhook the return spring from the front brake shoe. A pair of locking pliers can be used to stretch the spring and pull the end out of the hole in the shoe

6.4f

Push the hold-down

down, turn it 90° and of pliers will work, but down spring remover much easier. They are

retainer (cup)

release it. A pair this special holdtool makes this available at most

auto parts stores and aren't very expensive

h

m

AW

J% w

r 6.4g Remove the front shoe from the backing plate and unhook the anchor spring from the end of the shoe

6.4j

Remove the rear shoe and adjuster assembly from the backing plate

6.4h

Remove the hold-down from the rear shoe

spring

6.4k Unhook the return spring from the shoe and slide the adjuster and spring off

6.4i Hold the end of the parking brake cable with a pair of pliers and pull it out of the parking brake lever

6.41

Remove

the adjusting lever spring

Chapter 9

6.4m Remove the adjuster end from the automatic adjusting lever by rotating it out of the hole

6.4p Lubricate the>moving parts of the adjuster screw with a light coat of hightemperature grease

6.4s

Lubricate the brake shoe contact

area with high-temperature

grease

247

Brakes

6.4n Pry the C-washer apart and remove it to separate the parking brake lever and adjusting lever from the rear shoe

6.4o Assemble the parking brake lever and adjuter lever to the new rear shoe and crimp the C-washer closed with a

6.4q Install the adjuster assembly to the rear shoe, making sure the end fits properly into the slot of the shoe. Hook the spring into the opening in the shoe

6.4r

6.4t Pull the parking brake cable spring back and hold it there with a pair of pliers, then place the cable into the hooked end of the parking brake lever

pair of pliers

Install the adjusting lever spring

6.4u Place the rear shoe assembly against the backing plate and push the hold-down spring pin through the shoe. Install the cups (one on each side of the spring) and lock the outer cup to the pin by turning it 90° after the spring has been compressed

248

Chapter 9

Brakes 5

Before reinstalling the drum it should be checked for cracks, score

marks, deep scratches and hard spots, which will appear as small discolored areas. If the hard spots cannot be removed with fine emery cloth or if any of the other conditions listed above exist, the drum must be taken to an automotive machine shop to have it turned. Note: Professionals recommend resurfacing the drums whenever a brake job is done. Resurfacing will eliminate the possibility of out-of-round drums. If the drums are worn so much that they can't be resurfaced without exceeding the maximum allowable diameter (stamped into the drum), then new ones will be required (see illustration). At the very least, if you elect not to have the drums resurfaced, remove the glazing from the surface with emery cloth or sandpaper using a swirling motion. 6 Install the brake drum on the axle flange. 7 Mount the wheel, install the lug nuts, then lower the vehicle. 8 Make a number of forward and reverse stops to adjust the brakes until satisfactory pedal action is obtained. 9

7 6.4v Connect the anchor spring to the bottom of each shoe and mount the front shoe to the backing plate. Install the hold-down spring and cups

6.4w

6.4y

Using a screwdriver, stretch the return spring into its hole in the front shoe

Wiggle the assembly to make sure it is seated properly against the backing plate

Check the operation of the brakes carefully before placing the vehicle into normal service.

Wheel

cylinder — removal, overhaul and installation

Note: If an overhaul is indicated (usually because of fluid leakage or sticky operation) explore all options before beginning the job. New wheel cylinders are available, which makes

6.4x

Pry the parking brake forward and check to see that

the return spring didn't come

6.5

this job quite easy. If it's

The maximum

unhooked

from the rear shoe

drum diameter is cast into the inside of the rear drums

Chapter 9 decided to rebuild the wheel cylinder, make

249

Brakes

sure that a rebuild kit is

available before proceeding. Never overhaul only one wheel cylinder — always rebuild both of them at the same time.

Removal Refer to illustration 7.4 1 Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Block the front wheels to keep the vehicle from rolling. 2 Remove the brake shoe assembly (Section 6). 3 Remove all dirt and foreign material from around the wheel cylinder. 4 Disconnect the brake line with a flare-nut wrench, if available (see illustration). Don't pull the brake line away from the wheel cylinder. 5 Remove the wheel cylinder mounting bolts. 6 Detach the wheel cylinder from the brake backing plate and place it on a clean workbench. Immediately plug the brake line to prevent fluid loss and contamination.

Overhaul Refer to illustration 7. 7 7 Remove the bleeder screw, cups, pistons, boots and spring assembly from the wheel cylinder body (see illustration). 8 Clean the wheel cylinder with brake fluid, denatured alcohol or brake system cleaner. Warning: Do not, under any circumstances, use petroleum based so/vents to clean brake parts! 9 Use compressed air to remove excess fluid from the wheel cylinder and to blow out the passages. 1 0 Check the cylinder bore for corrosion and score marks. Crocus cloth can be used to remove light corrosion and stains, but the cylinder must be replaced with a new one if the defects cannot be removed easily, or if the bore is scored. 1 1 Lubricate the new cups with brake fluid. 12 Assemble the brake cylinder components (see illustration 7.7). Make sure the cup lips face in.

7.4

Disconnect the brake line fitting (arrow) then remove the two wheel cylinder bolts (arrows)

Piston

Installation Boot

13 Place the wheel cylinder in position and install the bolts. 14 Connect the brake line and install the brake shoe assembly. 15 Bleed the brakes (Section 11).

7.7

Spring

Exploded

view of the wheel cylinder

1 6 Check the operation of the brakes carefully before placing the vehicle into normal service.

8

Master cylinder — removal, overhaul and installation

Note: Before deciding to overhaul the master cylinder, check on the availability and cost of a new or factory rebuilt unit and also the availability of a rebuild kit.

Removal Refer to illustrations 8.4 and 8.6 1 The master cylinder is located in the engine compartment, mounted to the power brake booster. 2 Remove as much fluid as you can from the reservoir with a syringe. 3 Place rags under the fluid fittings and prepare caps or plastic bags

to cover the ends of the lines once they are disconnected. Caution: Brake fluid will damage paint. Cover all body parts and be careful not to spill fluid during this procedure. 4 Loosen the tube nuts at the ends of the brake lines where they enter the master cylinder. To prevent rounding off the flats on these nuts, the use of a flare nut wrench, which wraps around the nut, is preferred. Also unscrew the primary brake line tube nut at the threeway union (see illustration). 5 Pull the brake lines slightly away from the master cylinder and plug the ends to prevent contamination. 6 Disconnect the electrical connector at the master cylinder, then remove the three nuts attaching the master cylinder to the power booster (see illustration). Pull the master cylinder off the studs and out of the engine compartment. Again, be careful not to spill the fluid as this is done. Master Cylinder

Clamp

Brake Booster 3-Way Union *»

8.4

"V

Completely

loosen the primary brake line

fitting at the three-way

union (arrow)

8.6

Master cylinder installation details

250

Chapter 9

8.8a

The brake fluid reservoir is retained by a set screw

8.9 Using a Phillips screwdriver, depress the pistons then remove the stop bolt. Be sure to replace the copper washer on the stop bolt when reassembling

Overhaul Refer to illustrations 8.8a, 8.8b, 8.9, 8. 10, 8.1 la, 8. 1 1b, 8. 1 1c and 8. 14 7 Before attempting the overhaul of the master cylinder, obtain the proper rebuild kit, which will contain the necessary replacement parts and also any instructions which may be specific to your model. 8 Remove the reservoir set screw, pull off the reservoir and remove the grommets (see illustrations). 9 Place the cylinder in a vise and use a punch or Phillips screwdriver to fully depress the pistons until they bottom against the other end of the master cylinder (see illustration). Hold the pistons in this position and remove the stop bolt on the side of the master cylinder. 10 Carefully remove the snap-ring at the end of the master cylinder (see illustration). 1 1 The internal components can now be removed from the cylinder bore (see illustrations). Make a note of the proper order of the components so they can be returned to their original locations. Note: The two springs are of different tension, so pay particular attention to their order.

1 2 Carefully inspect the bore of the master cylinder. Any deep scoring or other damage will mean a new master cylinder is required. DO NOT attempt to hone the master cylinder. 13 Replace all parts included in the rebuild kit, following any instructions inthe kit. Clean all reused parts with clean brake fluid, brake parts cleaner or denatured alcohol. Do not use any petroleum-based cleaners. During assembly, lubricate all parts liberally with clean brake fluid. Be

Brakes

8.8b After the reservoir has been removed, pull the grommets from the cylinder body. If they are hardened, damaged or appear to have been leaking, replace them

8.10

Depress the pistons again and remove the snap-ring with a pair of snap-ring pliers

sure to tighten all fittings and connections to the specified torque. 14 Push the assembled components into the bore, bottoming them against the end of the master cylinder, then install the stop bolt. Note: // the vehicle is equipped with ABS, align the slot in the secondary piston with the groove on the cylinder mounting flange (see illustration). A screwdriver can be used, but be careful not to scratch the bore. 1 5 Install the new snap-ring, making sure it is seated properly in the 16 Install the reservoir grommets, reservoir and set screw. groove. 1 7 Before installing the new master cylinder it should be bench bled. Because it will be necessary to apply pressure to the master cylinder piston and, at the same time, control flow from the brake line outlets, it is recommended that the master cylinder be mounted in a vise, with the jaws of the vise clamping on the mounting flange. 1 8 Insert threaded plugs into the brake line outlet holes and snug them down so that there will be no air leakage past them, but not so tight that they cannot be easily loosened. 19 Fill the reservoir with brake fluid of the recommended type (see Chapter 1). 20 Remove one plug and push the piston assembly into the master cylinder bore to expel the air from the master cylinder. A large Phillips screwdriver can be used to push on the piston assembly. 21 To prevent air from being drawn back into the master cylinder, the plug must be replaced and snugged down before releasing the pressure on the piston assembly. 22 Repeat the procedure until only brake fluid is expelled from the

251

Strainer Reservoir Set Screw

8.1 1a

Exploded view of the master cylinder

Reservoir

Boot

Grommet Grommet

Snap Ring

No. 1 Piston and Spring No. 2 Piston and Spring

Cylinder Housing

Gasket

8.1 lb

I

8.14

After the snap-ring has been removed, the primary piston assembly can be removed

Piston Stopper Bolt

05

8.1 1c Remove the cylinder from the vise and tap it against a block of wood until the secondary piston is exposed. Pull the piston assembly STRAIGHT out — if it becomes even slightly cocked, the bore may be damaged

The secondary piston on an ABS equipped vehicle has a slot in the end of it — when installed, it must be aligned with the groove on the cylinder mounting flange. Be careful not to scratch the bore

252

Chapter 9

Brakes the pedal to the floor. Loosen the fitting nut to allow air and fluid to escape. Repeat this procedure on both fittings until the fluid is clear of air bubbles (see illustration). Test the operation of the brake system carefully before placing the vehicle in normal service.

9

Load Sensing Proportioning Valve (LSPV) — general information

Note: This applies to wagon models only. 1 Due to the fact that disc brakes are non-self-energizing, they require more hydraulic pressure than drum brakes to function properly. Added to the fact that, conversely, drum brakes require less hydraulic pressure to be efficient in an automotive system is the fact that they are usually fitted to the rear of vehicles, requiring even less pressure than the front braking. discs because most of the vehicle's weight is transferred forward during 8.27 Have an assistant pump the brake pedal several times, then hold it to the floorboard. Loosen the fitting nut, allowing the air and fluid to escape. Repeat this procedure on both fittings until the fluid is clear of air bubbles brake line outlet hole. When only brake fluid is expelled, repeat the procedure with the other outlet hole and plug. Be sure to keep the master cylinder reservoir filled with brake fluid to prevent the introduction of air into the system. 23 Since high pressure is not involved in the bench bleeding procedure, an alternative to the removal and replacement of the plugs with each stroke of the piston assembly is available. Before pushing in on the piston assembly, remove the plug as described in Step 20. Before releasing the piston, however, instead of replacing the plug, simply put your finger tightly over the hole to keep air from being drawn back into the master cylinder. Wait several seconds for brake fluid to be drawn from the reservoir into the piston bore, then depress the piston again, removing your finger as brake fluid is expelled. Be sure to put your finger back over the hole each time before releasing the piston, and when the bleeding procedure is complete for that outlet, replace the plug and snug it before going on to the other port.

Installation Refer to illustration 8.27 24 Install the master cylinder over the studs on the power brake booster and tighten the attaching nuts only finger tight at this time. 25 Thread the brake line fittings into the master cylinder and the junction block. Since the master cylinder is still a bit loose, it can be moved slightly in order for the fittings to thread in easily. Do not strip the threads as the fittings are tightened. 26 Fully tighten the mounting nuts and the brake fittings. 27 Fill the master cylinder reservoir with fluid, then bleed the master cylinder (only if the cylinder has not been bench bled) and the brake system as described in Section 1 1 . To bleed the cylinder on the vehicle, have an assistant pump the brake pedal several times and then hold

2 If the hydraulic pressure were the same to the front and rear brakes, the rear drums would be locked up almost every time the brakes were applied with force. The load sensing proportioning valve (LSPV) allows a portion of the rear brake hydraulic pressure to be applied to the front brakes, thus providing for smoother, more controlled stops. 3 Due to the special tools, test equipment and skills required to service the LSPV system, it is not recommended that the home mechanic attempt the procedures. If servicing of the system becomes necessary, take the vehicle to a Toyota dealer service department or to another reputable, suitably equipped automotive repair shop.

10

Brake hoses and lines — inspection and replacement

Inspection 1 About every six months, with the vehicle raised and supported securely on jackstands, the rubber hoses which connect the steel brake lines with the front and rear brake assemblies should be inspected for cracks, chafing of the outer cover, leaks, blisters and other damage. These are important and vulnerable parts of the brake system and inspection should be complete. A light and mirror will be helpful for a thorough check. If a hose exhibits any of the above conditions, replace it with a new one. Replacement Front brake hose Refer to illustrations 10.3 and 10.4 2 Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Remove the wheel. 3 At the frame bracket, hold the hose fitting with an open end wrench and unscrew the tube nut from the hose (see illust-ation). Use a flare nut wrench on the tube nut to prevent rounding off the corners. 4 Remove the U-clip from the female fitting at the bracket with a pair of pliers, then pass the hose through the bracket (see illustration).

Tube

10.3 Hold the hose fitting with a wrench to prevent twisting the line, then loosen the tube nut with a flare nut wrench to prevent rounding off the corners of the nut

10.4

Once the tube nut has been completely loosened, remove the hose clip with a pair of pliers

Chapter 9

253

Brakes

5

At the caliper end of the hose, remove the union bolt from the fitting, then separate the hose from the caliper. Note that there are two copper sealing washers on either side of the fitting — they should be replaced with new ones upon installation. 6 Remove the U-clip from the strut bracket, then feed the hose through the bracket. 7 To install the hose, pass the caliper fitting end through the strut bracket, then connect the fitting to the caliper with the union bolt and copper washers. Make sure that the locating lug on the fitting is engaged with the hole in the caliper, then tighten the fitting to the specified torque. 8 Push the metal support into the strut bracket and install the U-clip. Make sure that the hose isn't twisted between the caliper and the strut bracket. 9 Route the hose into the frame bracket, again making sure it isn't twisted, then connect the hydraulic line tube nut, starting the threads by hand. Install the U-clip then tighten the fitting securely. 10 Bleed the caliper as described in Section 1 1. 1 1 Install the wheel and lug nuts, lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts to the specified torque. Rear brake hose 1 2 Perform Steps 2, 3 and 4 above, then repeat Steps 3 and 4 to the other end of the hose. Be sure to bleed the wheel cylinder (or caliper) as described in Section 1 1 . Metal brake lines 1 3 When replacing brake lines be sure to use the correct parts. Don't use copper tubing for any brake system components. Purchase steel brake lines from a dealer or auto parts store. 14 Prefabricated brake line, with the tube ends already flared and fittings installed, is available at auto parts stores and dealers. These lines are also bent to the proper shapes. 1 5 When installing the new line make sure it's securely supported in the brackets and has plenty of clearance between moving or hot components. 1 6 After installation, check the master cylinder fluid level and add fluid as necessary. Bleed the brake system as outlined in the next Section and test the brakes carefully before driving the vehicle in traffic.

1 1 Brake hydraulic system — bleeding

1 1 .8 When bleeding the brakes, a hose is connected to the bleeder valve at the caliper or wheel cylinder and then submerged in brake fluid. Air will be seen as bubbles in the tube and container. All air must be expelled before moving to the next wheel

pressure in the system, then hold the pedal firmly depressed. 10 While the pedal is held depressed, open the bleeder valve just enough to allow a flow of fluid to leave the valve. Watch for air bubbles to exit the submerged end of the tube. When the fluid flow slows after a couple of seconds, close the valve and have your assistant release the pedal. 1 1 Repeat Steps 9 and 10 until no more air is seen leaving the tube, then tighten the bleeder valve and proceed to the left rear wheel, the right front wheel and the left front wheel, in that order, and perform the same procedure. Be sure to check the fluid in the master cylinder reservoir frequently. 1 2 Never use old brake fluid. It contains moisture which will deteriorate the brake system components. 13 Refill the master cylinder with fluid at the end of the operation. 1 4 Check the operation of the brakes. The pedal should feel solid when depressed, with no sponginess. If necessary, repeat the entire process. Warning: Do not operate the vehicle if you are in doubt about the effectiveness ofthe brake system.

Refer to illustration 1 1.8 Warning: Wear eye protection when bleeding the brake system. If the fluid comes in contact with your eyes, immediately rinse them with water and seek medical attention. Note: Bleeding the hydraulic system is necessary to remove any air that manages to find its way into the system when it's been opened during removal and installation of a hose, line, caliper or master cylinder. 1 It will probably be necessary to bleed the system at all four brakes if air has entered the system due to low fluid level, or if the brake lines have been disconnected at the master cylinder. 2 If a brake line was disconnected only at a wheel, then only that caliper or wheel cylinder must be bled. 3 If a brake line is disconnected at a fitting located between the master cylinder and any of the brakes, that part of the system served by the disconnected line must be bled. 4 Remove any residual vacuum from the brake power booster by applying the brake several times with the engine off. 5 Remove the master cylinder reservoir cover and fill the reservoir with brake fluid. Reinstall the cover. Note: Check the fluid level often during the bleeding operation and add fluid as necessary to prevent the fluid level from falling low enough to allow air bubbles into the master cylinder. 6 Have an assistant on hand, as well as a supply of new brake fluid, a clear container partially filled with clean brake fluid, a length of 3/16-inch plastic, rubber or vinyl tubing to fit over the bleeder valve and a wrench to open and close the bleeder valve. 7 Beginning at the right rear wheel, loosen the bleeder valve slightly, then tighten it to a point where it is snug but can still be loosened quickly and easily. 8 Place one end of the tubing over the bleeder valve and submerge the other end in brake fluid in the container (see illustration). 9 Have the assistant pump the brakes slowly a few times to get

12

Power brake booster — check, removal and installation

Operating check

Refer to illustration 12.2 1 Depress the brake pedal several times with the engine off and make sure that there is no change in the pedal reserve distance. 2 Depress the pedal and start the engine. If the pedal goes down slightly, operation is normal (see illustration).

Air tightness check Refer to illustration 12.3 3 Start the engine and turn it off after one or two minutes. Depress the brake pedal several times slowly. If the pedal goes down

Start 12.2 Push down on the brake pedal then start the engine — the brake pedal should go down slightly, indicating normal booster operation

254

Chapter 9

quire special tools not normally found in most automotive repair stations or shops. They are fairly complex and because of their critical relationship to brake performance it is best to replace a defective booster unit with a new or rebuilt one. 6 To remove the booster, first remove the brake master cylinder as described in Section 8. 7 Locate the pushrod clevis connecting the booster to the brake pedal (see illustration). This is accessible from the interior in front of the driver's seat. 8 Remove the clevis pin retaining clip with pliers and pull out the pin. 9 Holding the clevis with pliers, disconnect the clevis locknut with a wrench. The clevis is now loose. 10 Disconnect the hose leading from the engine to the booster. Be careful fitting. not to damage the hose when removing it from the booster

Third First Second 12.3 With the engine turned off, the pedal should build up with each pump if the booster is functioning properly farther the first time but gradually rises after the second or third depression, the booster is air tight (see illustration). 4 Depress the brake pedal while the engine is running, then stop the engine with the pedal depressed. If there is no change in the pedal reserve travel after holding the pedal for 30 seconds, the booster is air tight.

Removal Refer to illustration 12.7 5

Power brake booster units should not be disassembled. They re-

3-Way Union

Brakes

1 1 Remove the four nuts and washers holding the brake booster to the firewall. You may need a light to see these, as they are up under the dash area. 1 2 Slide the booster straight out from the firewall until the studs clear the holes and pull the booster, brackets and gaskets from the engine compartment area.

Installation Refer to illustrations 12. 14a and 12. 14b 13 Installation procedures are basically the reverse of those for removal. Tighten the clevis locknut securely and the booster mounting nuts to the specified torque. 1 4 If the power booster unit is being replaced, the clearance between the master cylinder piston and the pushrod in the vacuum booster must

Master Cylinder

H^

p— Clip

Brake Booster 12.7

Power brake booster installation details

Clearance

12.14a The booster pushrod-to-master cylinder pushrod clearance must be as specified — if there is interference between the two, the brakes may drag; if there is too much clearance, there will be excessive brake pedal travel

12.14b To adjust the length the serrated portion of the rod the adjusting screw in or out, desired

of the booster pushrod, hold with a pair of pliers and turn as necessary, to achieve the setting

Chapter 9 be measured. Using a depth micrometer or vernier calipers, measure the distance from the seat (recessed area) in the master cylinder to the master cylinder mounting flange. Next, measure the distance from the end of the vacuum booster pushrod to the mounting face of the booster (including gasket) where the master cylinder mounting flange seats. Subtract the two measurements to get the clearance (see illustration). Ifthe clearance is more or less than specified, turn the adjusting screw on the end of the power booster pushrod until the clearance is within the specified limit (see illustration). 1 5 A second method to measure the pushrod-to-piston clearance is to install the master cylinder to the vacuum booster with a small piece of modeling clay placed on the end of the pushrod. Make sure the gasket is in place when making this trial fit. Remove the master cylinder and measure the resulting impression left in the clay. Again adjust as needed to meet the Specification. This method may require several trial-and-error fits to reach the proper clearance. 1 6 After the final installation of the master cylinder and brake hoses and lines, the brake pedal height and free play must be adjusted and the system must be bled. See the appropriate Sections of this Chapter for the procedures.

255

Brakes 13

Parking brake shoes (rear disc brakes only) — replacement

Refer to illustrations 13.3, 13.4, 13.5, 13.7, 13.8a, 13.8b, 13.10 and 13. 15 Warning: Dust created by the brake system may contain asbestos, which is hazardous to your health. Never blow it out with compressed air and don't inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. Do not, under any circumstances, use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts. Use brake cleaner or denatured alcohol only/ 1

Remove the brake caliper, torque plate and disc following the procedures outlined in Sections 4 and 5. 2 Inspect the thickness of the lining material on the shoes. If the lining has worn down to 1 mm or less, the shoes must be replaced. 3 Remove the parking brake shoe return springs from the anchor pin (see illustration). 4 Remove the shoe strut from between the shoes (see illustration). 5 Remove the front shoe hold-down spring, then remove the shoe and adjuster (see illustration).

13.3 Unhook the parking brake shoe return springs — a special brake spring tool makes this much easier and is available at most auto parts stores

1 3.4

Remove

the shoe strut and spring assembly

Guide Plate Shoe Strut

Shoe Return Spring

Spring Rear Shoe Pin Assembly Rear Disc Brake C-Washer-^j^ Shim Parking Brake Shoe Lever

Front ShoePin-

Plug Adjuster Tension Spring 13.5 Exploded view of the parking brake assembly (rear disc brake models only)

Shoe Hold-down

Cup

Shoe Hold-down Spring

Rotor Disc

'

256

Chapter 9

13.7

Brakes

13.8a Apply a light coat of high temperature grease to the parking brake shoe contact areas (shaded areas) on the backing plate

Use a pair of pliers to crimp the C-washer to the pivot pin

Front Shoe

Rear Shoe

13.8b Clean the adjuster screw and apply high temperature grease to the indicated areas

13.10

Contract

Expand 13.15

Turn the adjusting screw star wheel to expand the shoes

until the disc can't be turned, then back it off eight clicks 6 Remove the rear shoe hold-down spring, disconnect the parking brake cable from the lever and remove the shoe. 7 Spread the C-washer on the parking brake lever pivot pin with a screwdriver then remove the lever, shim and pin. Transfer the parts to the new rear shoe and crimp the C-washer to the pin using a pair of pliers (see illustration). 8 Apply a thin coat of high temperature grease to the shoe contact surfaces of the backing plate and to the threads and sliding portion of the adjuster (see illustrations). 9 Connect the parking brake cable to the lever and mount the rear shoe to the backing plate. Install the hold-down spring. 10 Connect the tension spring to the lower ends of both shoes and install the adjuster (see illustration). 1 1 Position the front shoe on the backing plate and install the holddown spring. 1 2 Install the parking brake strut, with the spring facing forward, between the two shoes. 13 Install the shoe return springs. 14 Install the brake disc. Temporarily thread three of the wheel lug nuts onto the studs to hold the disc in place.

When assembled, the tension spring and adjuster screw should be arranged as shown

1 5 Remove the hole plug from the brake disc. Adjust the parking brake shoe clearance by turning the adjuster wheel with a brake adjusting tool or screwdriver until the shoes contact the drum and the disc can't be turned (see illustration). Back-off the adjuster eight clicks, then install the hole plug. 16 Install the torque plate and brake caliper (Section 4). Be sure to tighten the bolts to the specified torque. 1 7 Install the wheel and tighten the lug nuts to the specified torque. 1 8 Pull up on the parking brake handle and count the number of clicks that it travels. It should be between five and eight clicks — if it's not, adjust the parking brake as described in the next Section. 1 9 To bed the shoes to the drum, drive the vehicle at approximately 30 mph on a dry, level road. Push in on the parking brake release button and pull up slightly on the lever with about 20 pounds of force. Drive the vehicle for 1/4-mile with the parking brake applied like this. 20 Repeat this procedure two or three times, allowing the brakes to cool between applications.

14

Parking brake — adjustment

Refer to illustration 14.3 1 The parking brake lever, when properly adjusted, should travel five to eight clicks when a moderate pulling force is applied. If it travels less than five clicks, there is a chance that the parking brake might not be releasing completely and might be dragging on the drum. If the lever can be pulled up more than eight clicks, the parking brake may not hold adequately on an incline, allowing the car to roll. 2 To gain access to the parking brake cable adjuster, remove the center console (Chapter 11). 3 Loosen the locknut (the upper nut) while holding the adjusting nut (lower nut) with a wrench (see illustration). Tighten the adjusting nut until the desired travel is attained. Tighten the locknut. 4 Install the console.

Chapter 9

257

Brakes H^

I 1

I\\

1

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i 14.3

Loosen the locknut then turn the adjusting nut until the desired handle travel is obtained

1 5.4

Bk.

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The parking brake cable casing is bolted to the brake backing plate

rvvv

15

Parking brake cables — replacement

Equalizer-to-parking brake cable Refer to illustration 1 5.4

1 Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts, raise the rear of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Remove the wheel. 2 Make sure the parking brake is completely released, then remove the brake drum (or disc). 3 Remove the brake shoes and disconnect the cable from the parking brake lever (Section 6 for drum brakes, Section 1 3 for disc brakes). 4 Unbolt the cable casing from the backing plate (see illustration). 5 Unbolt the cable bracket from the frame at the forward end of the strut rod. 6 Unbolt the cable bracket from the forward end of the fuel tank strap. 7 Follow the cable towards the front of the vehicle and locate the cable clamp. Loosen the clamp bolt and slide the cable casing out of the clamp. 8 Using a screwdriver, pry the cable and grommet out of the guide just to the rear of the equalizer. 9 Disconnect the cable end from the equalizer by aligning the cable with the slot in the top of the equalizer. Slide the cable end out of its hole.

3 Remove the R-clip and extract the clevis pin. 4 Unscrew the pivot bolt nut, withdraw the bolt and remove the pedal. Inspect the bushings for wear, replacing them if necessary. 5 Install the brake pedal in the reverse order of removal. Lubricate the pivot with grease.

Adjustment 6 The pedal height is measured from the floorboard to the top of the pedal. Compare your measurement to the Specifications (see illustration). 7 To adjust the pedal height, block the wheels and release the parking brake lever. 8 Loosen the locknut on the brake light switch and unscrew the switch until it no longer contacts the brake pedal shaft. 9 Depress the pedal a few times to remove any vacuum in the system. 1 0 Loosen the pushrod locknut and turn the rod in the desired direction to set the pedal.

Stop Light Switch Pedal Push Rod

10 To install the cable, reverse the removal procedure. Adjust the parking brake lever as outlined in the previous Section.

Equalizer-to-brake lever cable 1 1 Remove the center console (Chapter 11). 1 2 With the lever in the down (off) position, remove the locknut and the adjusting nut (Section 14) and detach the cable from the lever.

==111111^=--

1 3 From underneath the vehicle, pull the cable rearwards, turn it 90° and pass it through the center of the equalizer. 14 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Apply a light coat of grease to the portion of the cable end that contacts the equalizer. Adjust the parking brake lever as outlined in the previous Section.

16

Brake pedal — removal, installation and adjustment

Refer to illustrations 16.6, 16.11 and 16.13

Removal and installation 1 Remove the left side under-dash panel. 2 Disconnect the return spring from the outer groove in the pushrod clevis pin.

Pedal Height 16.6 Measure the distance from the floor to the front of the pedal pad and compare your reading with the Specifications

258

Chapter 9

Brakes

Pedal Push Rod

16.13 Measure the pedal reserve distance from the floorboard to the top of the pedal while the pedal is held depressed

-6mmFreeplay Pedal

1 5 If the pedal reserve by your Toyota dealer 1 6 Readjust the brake is up (not depressed)

17

is less than specified, have the brakes adjusted service department. light switch so that it is actuated when the pedal (refer to Section 17).

Brake light switch — removal, installation and adjustment

Removal and installation 16.11 The pedal free play is the distance the pedal moves before the pedal pushrod contacts the booster air valve 1 1 Check the brake pedal free play (see illustration). Press on the pedal with your fingers until initial resistance is felt. Compare the measurement to the Specifications. 1 2 If the free play of the pedal requires adjustment, recheck the pedal height and adjust accordingly. 1 3 Check brake pedal reserve travel (see illustration). Start the engine, depress the brake pedal a few times and then press down hard and hold it. 14 Pedal reserve travel is measured from the floorboard to the top of the pedal while it is being depressed. Compare the measurement to the Specifications.

1 The brake light switch is located on a bracket at the top of the brake pedal. The switch activates the brake lights at the rear of the vehicle whenever the pedal is depressed. 2 Disconnect the negative battery cable and secure it out of the way so that it cannot come into contact with the battery post. 3 Disconnect the wiring harness at the brake light switch. 4 Loosen the locknut and unscrew the switch from the pedal bracket. 5 Installation procedures are the reverse of removal.

Adjustment 6 Loosen the locknut, adjust the switch so that the threaded portion lightly contacts the pedal stopper, then tighten the locknut. 7 Connect the wiring at the switch and the battery. With an assistant, check that the rear brake lights are functioning properly.

Chapter 10

Suspension and steering systems

Contents Balljoints — replacement Control arm — removal, inspection and installation Front end alignment — general information Front hub and bearing assembly — removal and installation Front stabilizer bar and bushings — removal and installation Front strut/shock absorber and coil

Rear stabilizer bar and bushings — removal and installation 9 Rear strut/shock absorber and coil spring assembly — removal, inspection and installation 10 Rear suspension arms — removal and installation 11 Steering and suspension check See Chapter 1 Steering gear boots — replacement 19 Steering gear — removal and installation 17 Steering knuckle and hub — removal and installation 7 Steering system — general information 15 Steering wheel — removal and installation 16 Strut rod — removal and installation 12 Strut/shock absorber or coil spring — replacement 4 Tie-rod ends — removal and installation 18 Wheels and tires — general information 22

6 5 23 8 2

spring assembly — removal, inspection and installation ... 3 General information 1 Power steering fluid level check See Chapter 1 Power steering pump — removal and installation 20 Power steering system — bleeding 21 Rear axle carrier — removal and installation 14 Rear hub and bearing assembly — removal and installation 13

Specifications

Torque specifications Front suspension Suspension support-to-body 1986 and earlier 1987 and later Strut/shock absorber assembly damper shaft nut Steering knuckle-to-strut bolts/nuts 1986 and earlier 1987 and 1988 1989 and later Stabilizer bar-to-control arm nut 1986 and earlier 1987 and later Stabilizer bar U-bracket bolts 1986 and earlier 1987 and later Balljoint-to-steering knuckle bolts 1986 and earlier and 1989 and later 1987 and 1988

Ft-ibs 27 47 34 152 166 224 86 156 83 94 83 94

Chapter 10

260

Suspension and steering systems

Torque specifications (continued) Ft-lbs

Front suspension (continued) Balljoint-to-control arm 1988 and earlier 1989 and later

67 90

Control arm-to-shaft bracket nut 1986 and earlier 1987 and later

83 156

Control arm shaft bracket-to-body

153

Rear suspension Suspension support-to-body 1988 and earlier 1989 and later Rear axle carrier-to-strut bolts/nuts 1983, 1984 1985, 1986 1 987 and later

47 29 105 119 166

Rear suspension arm-to-frame 1 986 and earlier 1987 and later

64 83

Rear suspension arm-to-axle carrier 1986 and earlier

64

1987 and later (exc. all-wheel drive) All-wheel drive

134 90

Strut rod-to-body 1 986 and earlier 1987 and later

64 83

Strut rod-to-axle carrier 1 986 and earlier 1 987 and later

64 83

Rear hub and bearing assembly-to-axle Steering system Steering wheel nut Steering gear mounting

carrier

bolts

Steering shaft universal joint-to-steering gear Tie-rod end-to-steering knuckle Wheel lug nuts

1

General information

Refer to illustrations 1 . 1 and 1.2 The front suspension is a MacPherson strut design. The steering knuckle is located by a lower control arm, and both front control arms are connected by a stablilizer bar, which also controls fore-and-aft movement of the control arms (see illustration). The rear suspension also utilizes MacPherson struts. Lateral movement is controlled by two parallel control arms on each side, with longitudinally mounted strut rods between the body and the rear axle carriers (see illustration). The rack-and-pinion steering gear is located behind the engine/transaxle assembly on the firewall and actuates the steering arms, which are integral with the steering kuckles. Most vehicles are equipped with power steering. The steering column is designed to collapse in the event of an accident. Frequently, when working on the suspension or steering system components, you may come across fasteners which seem impossible to loosen. These fasteners on the underside of the vehicle are continually subjected to water, road grime, mud, etc., and can become rusted or "frozen," making them extremely difficult to remove. In order to unscrew these stubborn fasteners without damaging them (or other components), be sure to use lots of penetrating oil and allow it to soak in for a while. Using a wire brush to clean exposed threads will also ease removal of the nut or bolt and prevent damage to the threads. Sometimes a sharp blow with a hammer and punch is effective in breaking the bond between a nut and bolt threads, but care must be taken to prevent the punch from slipping off the fastener and ruining the threads. Heating the stuck fastener and surrounding area with a torch sometimes helps too, but isn't recommended because of the obvious dangers associated with fire. Long breaker bars and extension, or

59

25 43 26

36 75

"cheater," pipes will increase leverage, but never use an extension pipe on a ratchet — the ratcheting mechanism could be damaged. Sometimes, turning the nut or bolt in the tightening (clockwise) direction first will help to break it loose. Fasteners that require drastic measures to unscrew should always be replaced with new ones. Since most volve jacking of jackstands type of jack to

of the procedures that are dealt with in this chapter inup the vehicle and working underneath it, a good pair will be needed. A hydraulic floor jack is the preferred lift the vehicle, and it can also be used to support certain

components

during various operations. Warning: Never, under any circumstances, rely on a jack to support the vehicle while working on it. Whenever any of the suspension or steering fasteners are loosened or removed they must be inspected and, if necessary, be replaced with new ones of the same part number or of original equipment quality and design. Torque specifications must be followed for proper reassembly and component retention. Never attempt to heat or straighten any suspension or steering components. Instead, rep/ace any bent or damaged part with a new one.

2

Front stabilizer bar and bushings — removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5, 2.6 and 2. 12 Warning: Whenever any of the suspension or steering fasteners are loosened or removed they must be inspected, and if necessary replaced with new ones of the same part number or of original equipment quality and design. Torque specifications must be followed for proper reassembly and component retention. Note: 77?e stabilizer bar used on this vehicle is unique in that it also serves to prevent longitudinal movement of the control arms.

261

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