Curing and Smoking (Made At Home) 1770850775, 9781770850774

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NWH ACPL

ITEM

DISCARDED

T

.

ING &

SMOKING Made Home at

1

Digitized by the Internet Archive in

2015

https://archive.org/details/isbn_9781770850774

CURING &

SMOKING MADE AT HOME

A Firefly Book Published by Firefly Books

& Smoking was developed, designed and conceived by Mitchell Beazley, an imprint of Octopus Publishing Group Limited, Endeavour House, 189 Shaftesbury Avenue, London, WC2H 8JY

2012

Ltd.

Curing

Copyright © 2012 Octopus Publishing Group Ltd Text copyright © 2012 Dick and James Strawbridge, Jera Enterprises Ltd

Neither the authors nor the publishers take any

No

All rights reserved.

part of this publication

may

responsibility for

be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the Publisher. First printing

Publisher Cataloging-in-Publication

Data

:

at

home

Dick and James

/

resulting in this

from book.

Both metric and imperial measurements are given for the recipes. Use one set of measures only, not a mixture of both. Quantities for most dry ingredients are listed by weight, since this provides greater precision. However, approximate quantities by volume

temperature,

if

specified

using a convection oven, follow the

manufacturer's instructions for adjusting the time and

col. photos.

:

damage

Ovens should be preheated to the

& smoking made

Strawbridge. [176] p.

injury or

are also listed.

(U.S.)

Strawbridge, Dick.

Curing

any

the use of techniques shown or described

temperature. Grills should also be preheated.

cm.

,

Includes index.

book includes dishes made with nuts and nut

Summary: An introduction to the art of curing and smoking foods, equipment needed and recipes using

This

the

vulnerable to these allergies, such as pregnant

final

derivatives and those

products.

1SBN-13: 978-1-77085-077-4 (pbk.)

Food - Preservation. 2. Smoked foods. 3. Cooking (Smoked foods). 1. Strawbridge, James. 11. Curing and 1.

smoking.

Title.

111.

Library and Archives

Canada Cataloguing

in

Publication

Strawbridge, Dick

Curing & smoking:

made

at

home

/

Dick & James

Includes index. foods.

Food— Preservation. 111.

Title:

1.

Cooking (Smoked foods). Strawbridge, James 11. Title. 2.

or lightly cooked eggs.

3.

Curing and smoking.

TX609.S77 2012

Published

The U.S. Food and Drug Administration and Health Canada advise that eggs should not be consumed raw. This book contains some dishes made with raw or lightly cooked eggs. It is prudent for more vulnerable

made with uncooked

ISBN 978-1-77085-077-4

Smoked

and nursing mothers, the sick, the elderly, babies and children, to avoid dishes made with nuts and nut oils. It is also prudent to check the labels of prepared ingredients for the possible inclusion of nut

people, such as pregnant and nursing mothers, the sick, the elderly, babies and young children, to avoid dishes

Strawbridge.

1.

potentially

derivatives.

TX609.S763 2012

641.46 dc23

who may be

in

641.4'6

C2012-900387-5

the United States by

Books (U.S.) Inc. P.O. Box 1338, Ellicott Station Buffalo, New York 14205 Firefly

in Canada by Books Ltd. 66 Leek Crescent Richmond Hill, Ontario L4B 1H1

Published Firefly

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CURING &

SMOKING Made at Home

Dick

& James

Strawbridge

Firefly

Books

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION PREPARING FOR CURING & SMOKING 16

BRINING 40

DRY CURING 66

AIR DRYING 96

HOT SMOKING 136

COLD SMOKING 170

INDEX 176

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

INTRODUCTION ra

* iwt*"

""'

1

1

1

' '

iw

—

-

i

Whether you wish to find ways to preserve your excess produce,

make something delicious, learning how to cure and smoke your own food is great fun. This book explains what is possible and offers encouragement: we want to give you save money or just

the confidence start

and knowledge

to

gather the necessary materials and

experimenting with ingredients you

may well already have in

your fridge and pantry.

THE BENEFITS OF CURING & SMOKING Cured and smoked foods, with their distinctive flavors and textures, are part of our history, and in the days before supermarkets offered fresh food seven days a week, these preserving methods

were

why try smoking and curing food today? Preparing smoked and cured food at home is not always cheaper than buying it

essentials skills. So

from a store (although it frequently can is

be),

but the satisfaction alone

a good enough reason - the pride you feel putting your own cured

produce on the table for your family and friends

to

enjoy is immense.

What you produce will not taste exactly the same as the massproduced equivalent; it will be unique and truly amazing. Our main motivation is the quality of the food we make. It all

starts with the

example,

is

nothing

Given the amount product to mature,

raw ingredients. The humble more than pork meat,

of effort it

you put

in

fat,

salami, for

flavorings

and the time

seems counterproductive

to

it

and salt.

takes for the

use anything other

than the best ingredients you can possibly source. (For us that rearing our

means

own organic pigs - it's an awful lot easier to buy the pork INTRODUCTION

:

7

from a good butcher, but anyone who has reared understand the satisfaction

their

own pigs will

we feel.) Keeping it simple allows the

essence of the food to come through. Be in no doubt that any added "flavoring" on a food label should set off warning bells - does "apple

woodsmoke flavoring" mean that a piece of meat or cheese has been smoked in apple wood? Sadly not; it will probably have been rubbed in

a smoky-tasting, orange-coloured chemical.

moved on from a rural-based, agricultural society and most of us now congregate in towns and cities doesn't mean we can't produce our own food. Anyone with even the

Just because society has

smallest kitchen or yard can do a surprising

amount

of curing

and

We've been smoking cheeses and curing meats and fish for more than 20 years in modestly sized spaces, and it was only when we moved to our small farm in 2005 that we started rearing our own meat. By that stage, we had honed our skills and had acquired the smoking.

confidence to try anything and everything.

WHERE TO START This book will encourage you to try to see

all

facets of curing

and smoking

what you enjoy. We show you all the key methods, as well

as give you ideas and recipes so that you can

make a dish with your

products as the star. Keeping food for long periods does require a

common sense, so we point out where you should take care and when to be cautious. Once you have mastered the principles, degree of

treat the

methods and recipes as guides and experiment.

Before you launch into one of the projects,

what you are trying to achieve. Quality, are

all valid

it is

worth taking stock of

cost, flavor

and

availability

motivators: our initial attempts at cold smoking

about because smoked cheeses were both expensive and 8

:

INTRODUCTION

came

difficult to

find.

a

Today they are much more plentiful, but

lot to

be desired.

it's

still

leaves

We love the fact that we can make a batch of

smoked cheese - we can do up cost of the cheese

the quality

and a bucket

to 10

of

only fair to give the carpenter

kg (22

lbs) at

a time - for the

sawdust (usually

that's free, but

who gave it to us some home-made

product in return). Rather than using a very basic cheese, as most

commercially produced smoked cheese tends

to be,

we buy local

mature cheeses when they are on sale or use a specialty cheese that takes our fancy. it

We also control the type of smoke we use to smoke

and exactly how smoky we make the finished product. As we

have

all

these variables in our control

we are able to make a unique

when was the last time you saw a beech-smoked Stilton or a chestnut-smoked Brie in a store? They are product that

is

special to us

-

both great, by the way, especially with a slice of nice, crisp apple. also love hot-smoked chicken in salads, but

We

had problems finding it.

we needed to learn about hot smoking, and now we can have organic hot-smoked chicken whenever we want.

That was

all

the incentive

CREATING SOMETHING SPECIAL The pork we rear is of the highest quality and relatively expensive, as our pigs are

much older than most that are reared commercially.

For purely commercial reasons, farmed pigs are kept for the period of

maximum growth and then slaughtered. Our pigs, however, are

slowly grown and each piece of meat has taken a could

fill

We

our freezer with meat, use each piece carefully and savor

every mouthful, but

we like to find a way to add value. When we

cure or smoke our meat the resulting product for

lot of effort.

example, an air -dried leg of pork

is

is

worth a

lot

more -

about five times the price of

a fresh leg of pork. So the air-dried pork

we eat would have cost us

we not made it ourselves. If you are not rearing your own meat then find a good independent butcher. You can follow

a small fortune had

INTRODUCTION

:

9

recommendations, but it's

it's

worth going

in

best to try to avoid a busy Saturday

time understanding

if

and having a chat - though you want

to

spend some

how the butcher's meat is sourced.

Traditionally, people

had a well-stocked pantry and cellar

to

see them through the lean winter months. While few people are

motivated to cure and smoke by the thought of having no food in

own stores does give you the flexibility of harvesting and gathering food when it is readily the short, dark winter days, having your

available and in season. There

is,

of course, the slight

problem of

having a large enough storage space, so before you turn into a curing

and smoking demon, to store

best to

it's

your hard work.

make sure that you have somewhere

As well as being a talking point over dinner,

homemade food you have put such effort into will be a treat for those who are constrained by what they can buy in the stores. the

we hope, have seen photographs of food you know you would enjoy, but you may not be convinced that you are capable of making it. You are! There is nothing in this

Flicking through this book, you will,

book that

is

not completely achievable.

We believe you will find

curing and smoking your

own food as rewarding, as enjoyable and,

above

we do. It's just a matter of having the

all,

as delicious as

desire to give

10

:

it

INTRODUCTION

a

try.

INTRODUCTION

:

11

PREPARING TO

CURE & SMOKE When

you

any new

set out to learn

you are faced with

skill,

a mind-boggling number of choices. The main problem can be deciding this

when - and where -

to begin.

Most of the projects

book can be started very quickly. You

shopping trip for some

raw

may need

to

in

take a

materials, but you will probably be

able to get your hands on enough ingredients that are already in

your kitchen

to try

something right away.

WHAT METHOD TO TRY FIRST

Try a basic cure

We

go on

suggest that you

by making what you love the most or what you start

you have ever been disappointed by "premium" quality bacon that when grilled, lacked any flavor cannot find in

stores. If

other than saltiness, do something about it.

If

you

find the white residue that

released into the

pan when you cook

your cured meat a charge of your

is

little

own

worrying, take

destiny and

make

your own. We started with smoking cheese simply because

we

loved

good smoked cheese was hard

it

and

to find.

Curing meat brining

is

is

the

an ancient

skill,

and

you

are immediately faced

very

is

little

very forgiving and requires

specialist

equipment:

grade plastic container to get started. You will

in the fridge for

or

12

at

:

with

of

lots

Do you make the same cure show how clever you are? Do

decisions.

again to

you change the cut of meat and keep the same method. Do you vary the cure and add your

no

own

aromatics? There

is

right answer, but the fun lies in the

experimenting. Keep a notebook, and as well as writing

down

the date and details

of what you did, make some tasting It's

surprisingly easy to forget

which of your many was your favourite.

delectable dishes

most widely practiced

and fundamental of the methods. This

wet cure

and then you can

you do succeed, don't be fooled into thinking you have mastered the art:

notes.

BRINING

first,

to vary the ingredients. If at first

is all

a

food-

you need

need some space

your container of brine

the very least a cool storage space.

PREPARING TO CURE & SMOKE

DRY CURING Dry curing can be right, or the

a

method

forerunner to

in

air

its

own

drying or

smoking. The container required for dry curing can be as simple as a crock or other large pot or a plastic food container.

Using

a

hardwood box or

barrel

is

the

ultimate in traditional dry curing, and

AIR DRYING

such items are sometimes available to

Most people love the idea of air drying meat — imagine having hams in the attic or salami and chorizo in a coldroom

buy, but

you should

are in the

by using

a

If

you pop

a

your

cart next

time you

simple tub instead. extra items into

start

couple of

—

supermarket you will be able

to start dry curing the

moment you

but trying to determine the perfect

location for their maturing products

can stop them from trying.

get

remembering

back home.

that there

is

It is

worth

more

to air

drying than legs of meat hanging up for

Making gravlax was one of our

first

all

which involved (page 57), although you

to see

—

air-dried foods range

forays into dry curing,

bunches of herbs

making

means

a press

can improvise one.

salmon was on

and, having bought

"add value,"

One day

a side of

offer at the fish it,

fish. If

lot

money,

more of this

families.

Not

as

we

we

tend to eat

delicious dish than

that

we

a

most

are complaining.

special

salami, but this

are completely honest, the press has never really saved us

dry in the kitchen, but there

do not need

to

probably three

or four times the price of fresh

all

is

something special about curing meat. You

market

we decided

as gravlax is

from

By

by hanging up your excess

start

chillies to

to beef jerky.

some

equipment

method does

to

make

require

patience because the meat takes

time to mature as as well

it

dries out. You

might

be patient in the preparation,

too: equipment can be expensive if you go out and buy it immediately,

PREPARING TO CURE & SMOKE

:

13

but hand-operated meat grinders or sausage machines

come up

for sale

on

the internet or in the classified ads in the paper.

Keep your eyes open and

microbes and bacteria can grow to

dangerous for

more

levels (see

top smoker

is

is all

And you can always improvise — we have made some very

from items found

acceptable sausages a bicycle

on board

a boat using

pump.

said,

.

the usual place to

think ahead to improve your chances of spotting a bargain.

pages 98 and 105

detailed information)

A

stove-

start, as it

but foolproof and can be improvised in

most

kitchens. That

with some rudimentary DIY

skills

you can build an impressive smoker that offers plenty of flexibility and allows you to

expand your repertoire of smoked

HOT SMOKING

foods. Commercially

With hot-smoked goods widely available in delis and supermarkets, you will already know if you like the flavors before you even make your first batch. Be

hot-smokers are readily available on the

prepared to be very pleased with yourself

COLD SMOKING We have worn out several

— "made

at

home"

is

always better than

"store bought! "There are a

of rules to follow

when

number

hot smoking,

so take the time to read about

do 14

it

:

how

to

properly: at certain temperatures,

PREPARING TO CURE & SMOKE

internet. If

you

produced domestic

are not keen

on DIY, they

are a functional, reliable solution.

cold-smokers.

Ours have always been based on drums, but any container

smoke

for long

enough

oil

that holds

to infuse

food will work. Cold smoking

is

your probably

one of the

easiest

ways

to

produce very

food that will surprise those around

tasty

you, and as long as your chosen smoking

box does not

get

warm enough

to allow

you will succeed. Before you begin, you will need to source some sawdust and wood shavings. Make bacteria to grow,

sure they are pure apple

wood

or whichever type of wood

otherwise you will

fail

typical characteristics

bucketful batch, but

is

or oak

you

and

flavors.

more than enough

it's

wood's Half a

for

one

best to source sacks so

can repeat and experiment with is

prefer,

to get the

worth having

a collection

you

flavors.

It

of different

sawdusts so you can present a platter

of

flavors.

Make

know you need to

sure

you

let

smoke food because they

interested

Letting

you

in

people

the sawdust or shavings will be

and well disposed toward you.

them try your products will stand good stead in the future.

EQUIPPING YOURSELF We don't like spending a lot

of money

on our equipment, but we do

like

good-

quality items that will last a long time. If

you decide you

own

are

going to make your

curing box or smoker, take the time

to make something that does exactly what you want it to - not only is that satisfying in

itself,

but

heirloom.

it

will also also

It is

become

a family

worth keeping your

eyes peeled for second-hand equipment,

but

make

sure the items are functional

and not those to

make them

anyone is

as

else

that have

been treated

attractive. If

who

you know

cures or smokes food

always worth asking them for advice,

most people

ideas

are

happy

and experiences.

to share their

it

BRINING

INTRODUCTION TO

BRINING one of the most effective ways to preserve food. The great thing method is that it keeps the meat or fish moist, perfect for use in a variety of dishes. Adding strong flavors with a selection of herbs and spices to a saline solution allows them to really penetrate the meat or fish and enhance the taste. Brining takes a long time to do - normally 24 hours or Brining

about

is

this

more, so plan ahead and be patient.

It'll

be worth the wait!

HOW BRINING WORKS Brining

is

a simple process.

becomes tender and only breaks

Meat

is

soaked

and curing agents and

in a mixture of water

stays moist.

down tough muscle

The

salt

not

fibers but

also interacts

with the proteins in the meat so

that the cells

draw and

retain the brine.

GUIDELINES •

Use 500 g (1 pound) of salt (about 500 ml/ 2 cups) for every 5 L (5 quarts) of water.

•

Use

at least

minimum •

50%

brine to meat; for example,

kg (2 pounds) of meat will need a

1

of 500 ml (2 cups) of brine.

To brine, use either is

a

bag or a container that

about the same dimensions

adding more brine

if

as the

meat,

necessary to immerse

Always use

at least

the advised percentage

of salt in the saline solution. •

•

•

Change the solution

by,

while kosher

and

salt

will find that

you

are

has

easily.

achieved with a large

is

proportion of

you

salt

and dissolves more

Generally, brining

a little sugar.

some

However,

you

recipes require

08-1 09). This

a great

way

is

because sugar can also be

to cure

meat and

fish if

it is

in the right proportion.

Always keep your food submerged and

help with reducing the salty flavors, but

properly refrigerated, below 5°C (41°F).

also increases the

Never reuse a brine solution.

bacteria beneficial to the curing process.

salt

and water

:

BRINING

salt is

it

growth of lactobacillus -

a

TESTING THE BRINE

to brine food. You can

use any type of salt: table

used

Not only does sugar

curing a large cut of meat.

You need

to

initial

brining (for example, see pastrami, pages 1

regularly if

THE BRINE SOLUTION

18

come

to

a cleaner flavor

carry out a sweet brine cure after the

the meat. •

and easy

inexpensive

If

you have

a

measure the

salinometer you can precisely saltiness

of your brine. As

a rule,

20

:

BRINING

Juniper berries

the best brine strengths for different types of

meat

Ginger

are:

•

chicken -

•

bacon loins -

•

hams, shoulders -

•

fish

Coriander seeds

40% 60%

Black peppercorns

60-80%

Rosemary

- 80%

Thyme Garlic

These figures are based on a simple water solution. will be

more

solution add

If

you add

dense. If

more

Star anise

sugar, the brine

you want

salt,

and

salt

and

if

a stronger

you need

BRINE CONTAINERS

a

weaker brine add more water. Keep in mind that a

You

solution containing

salt

A

and water. Adding

other ingredients to your brine

may

will

need

a container in

which

to seal the

solution and the meat for a period of time.

salinometer measures the density of a

freezer bag laid

on

for small quantities.

alter the

a tray can

work well

The bigger the piece of

density of the solution, so always test the

meat, the bigger the container, and for a leg

brine before you add any flavorings.

of ham you

may need

a very large one,

such

as a cooler.

BRINE FLAVORINGS You can add and

spices.

A

flavor to

RECORD-KEEPING

your brine with herbs

traditional cure

mix could

Always

clearly label

as the last thing

include:

because

Bay leaves

it

a

WATER

LARGE CUT

5

e.g.

L (5 quarts)

meat

you have used and

which ones were your

PRODUCT

to waste

notebook and record which

brines and flavorings

BRINE SOLUTIONS

is

cures for too long or not long

enough. Keep

Cloves

meats that are curing,

you want

favourites.

AND TIMING

1.5

TIME

SUGAR

SALT kg (3 pounds)

500 g

(1

pound)

3-5 days

(about 625 ml/

beef brisket

2 Vi cups)

MEDIUM CUT e.g.

(2 cups)

pork chops

SWEET CURE e.g.

500 ml

ham

5

L (5 quarts)

50 g (2 ounces) (about 60 ml/'A cup)

500 g

(1

pound)

50 g (2 ounces)

48 hours

750 g (l'/2 pounds)

24 hours

BRINING

:

21

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METHOD #1

BRINED PORK Taking raw meat or fish and altering its texture, taste and quality is a magical thing to try at home. We are always pleasantly surprised at how you can take a large lump of pork and transform it into a moist, tasty ham. There is a common misconception that ham is a cut of pork. In fact, ham is simply a leg of pork that has been cured, and brining is the key. You can also brine other cuts of pork to maximize the flavor, and even fish such as herring.

CURING YOUR PORK

PREPARING THE SOLUTION The most important

part of brining

is

saline solution right. For a large fresh

the

bone

in,

with 500 g

mix

5

ham

with

L (5 quarts) of hot water

pound) each of salt (about

(1

cups/500 ml) and sugar (about ml) in a large

to get the

Vh

2

is

the essential part of

your brining process, so make sure you get it

right!

The stronger the

the

need

same dimensions

brine, the faster the

meat

will need.

is

immersed. Put

fully

ADDING THE FLAVOR

from

-

you can - so

rinse

been cured simply in brine can

especially if you have

chosen pork

a well-reared rare-breed pig.

you

that

as the brine

draws out

and sugar preserve the

meat, while the herbs and spices add depth of flavor.

or

22

tie

:

Drop

the flavorings directly into the brine

them up

BRINING

the

that

you achieve an even

remove the meat from the

brine,

running tap and pat dry with

a

Now you've

got a delicious ham,

However, part If

salt

that the

on

ready to cook.

herbs and spices. These flavors will infuse the

the moisture. The

under

papertowels.

of the alchemy involved in brining depends on

meat with intense depth

a lid

meat every day — morning and evening

cure. Finally,

that has

meat you

container and refrigerate for 3-4 days. Turn

if

tasty

as the

add your cut of pork, making sure

brining

be

with a

Pour the brine into the container and

the

A ham

a brining container

are curing.

curing time, and the larger the meat, the more it

will

or a resealable bag. The container should be

lid

cups/625

plastic container. Stir to dissolve

then allow to cool. This

You

in a small cheesecloth bag.

are curing a really large cut of

won't

fit

meat

in the fridge, try using a food-

grade cooler with some ice packs in

it.

The

ice

packs will need refreshing regularly in order to

make

but

it's

sure that the meat stays cool enough,

a great

of meat.

way

to deal

with bigger cuts

INJECTING

A LARGER CUT OF MEAT

1

Large cuts of meat can benefit from having the brine solution injected into the deeper parts.

brining syringe

is

useful for speeding

times, placing the brine near the

bone

middle of the piece of meat for added

and

A FLAVORED

A

up curing in the

BRINE FOR PORK

flavor

For

a speedier cure.

NOW TRY: BACON Making home-cured bacon same way

as a cut

(about

1

easy.

1

3

of water and cure for 24 hours. available,

ounces) of

5

L (5 quarts)

hang the "green" bacon it

g

200

g (7 ounces) sugar (about

cool space

pound)

salt (about

500 ml/2

cups)

250 ml/1 cup)

water

Large onion, cut

1

in

half

2 stalks celery, roughly chopped 5

ml

5

whole cloves

5

ml

for a day

in the fridge for storage.

(1

10 garlic cloves

Vi

If a

500

4 bay Leaves

to

salt

kg (9 pounds) of pork

5 L (5 quarts)

in the

kg (2 pounds) of salt

L/4 cups) and 350 g (1 1 \ V* cups/425 ml) to

before placing

it

kg (6'/2-pound)

sugar (about

is

Cure

of ham, but add more

speed up the process. For a piece of pork, use

is

4

It

(1

(1

teaspoon) mustard seeds

teaspoon)

chili

flakes

will

2 allspice berries

keep for about 2 weeks or even longer

smoke

it

(see pages

if

you 5

142-143).

ml

(1

teaspoon) peppercorns

HOW TO BRINE A PORK BELLY

Add

Place the pork in a glass container. Pour in the water

and then add the

salt

and the

the ingredients for the flavored brine.

rest

of

the pork to the brine solution, cover and

refrigerate for

every day.

3-4

days, turning the

Then remove

brine, rinse

the

meat

meat from the

and cook.

BRINING

:

23

Crispy-skinned baked potatoes and lightly cooked cabbage are the perfect

accompaniments Serves

ham.

to delicious cold

4

For the barbecue sauce 125

1

small

ham

75

2 carrots, roughly chopped 1

stalk celery, roughly

1

onion, cut

1 leek,

1

in

ml

ml

75 g

(3

60 ml

chopped

half

1

ml

(V2

cup) orange juice

tomato ketchup

(V3 cup)

ounces) brown sugar (V4 cup)

(V4

Worcestershire sauce

teaspoon) cayenne pepper

roughly chopped

handful Brussels sprouts

lb serve

4

large baking potatoes

extra

virgin olive oil

salt flakes 1

green cabbage, finely shredded

COLD HAM WITH BARBECUE SAUCE If

you

prefer less salty

water to a Place the

ham, place

boil, discard the water,

ham

in a large

pan and

it

in a

pan of cold water, bring the

then continue as below.

just cover

it

with cold water. Add the

vegetables (the stock will be great for soup) then bring to a boil and ,

simmer is

the

ham

for 10

minutes per 500 g

up, turn off the heat, place a lid

on

the

(1

pound). When the time

pan and

set aside to cool.

Preheat your oven to 180°C (350°F), and put the potatoes in to bake

-

to give

olive oil

them

a crispy skin, prick

and sprinkle with

them

salt flakes

all

Bring a large pan of salted water to a boil. for a

maximum

heat and bring to a the

rub with extra virgin

Add

the cabbage and cook

of 2 minutes then drain and shake

To make the barbecue sauce, put

Remove

over,

before baking.

simmer

ham from

all

dry.

the ingredients in a

for a couple

the liquid, put

it

of minutes,

on

a carving

24

:

BRINING

a

low

board and cut

into thick slices. Serve with the baked potatoes, cabbage

helping of barbecue sauce.

pan over

stirring.

and

a

good

it

There

something deeply satisfying about carving a glazed ham at the table. ham can form the centerpiece for a large family meal, and the leftover meat can be used for lunches and sandwiches for days afterwards. is

This

Serves 10-12

2-3 kg (4-6V2 pounds)

ham

chopped

2 carrots, roughly 1

stalk celery, roughly

1

onion, cut

1 leek, 1

in

chopped

half

roughly chopped

handful Brussels sprouts

ml

15

175

100

tablespoon) whole cloves

g (3V2

ml

15

(1

ml (% cup) orange

(1

juice

ounces) brown sugar (about 250 rr\U lh cup)

tablespoon) mustard powder

BAKED GLAZED HAM If

you prefer

water to a Place the

less salty

ham, place

boil, discard the water,

ham

in a large

pan and

it

in a

pan of cold water, bring the

then continue

just cover

it

the vegetables (the stock will be great for soup)

reduce the heat and simmer the ( 1

pound)

pan and

When

.

the time

is

ham

ham

layer of fat

about 3

,

bring to a boil then

minutes per 500 g

up, turn off the heat, place a lid

on

cm

first

Bake the

When

(1

the meat. Score the

%

fat

it is

cool

26

:

BRINING

enough

to handle,

to

produce

a pattern

of diamonds

fine sieve,

dredge the

with the brown sugar and then with the mustard powder.

ham

for

1

5

minutes then baste

.

for

the

inches) across and stick a clove into each diamond.

it

the ends) Return to the oven for a further a final

on

out of the liquid and carefully remove the skin, leaving a

Pour the orange juice over the ham. Then, using a

ham

below

set aside to cool.

Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F). take the

for 10

as

with cold water. Add

time before moving

it

with the juices (especially 1

5

minutes then baste for

to a carving board.

10-15 minutes before cutting

it

Allow the

into slices to serve.

ham

to rest

Chaps, which

come from

the lower half of a pig's cheeks, are very fatty deep taste. Our favorite way of using them is as a potted meat in which the taste and texture can really be shown off and appreciated. Serve this really easy potted ham with crusty bread - it beats conventional pates hands down.

and have a

Makes 2 small

distinctive,

For the potted

jars

ham

2 onions, diced

For the chaps

zest of

2 chaps

15

2 carrots, roughly chopped

5

ml

1

pinch ground cloves

1

onion, cut

1

stalk celery

in

half

ml

1

(1

(1

teaspoon) Dijon mustard

juice of 1

15

ml

To

finish

75 g

(1

(3

orange

tablespoon) whole-grain mustard

lemon

tablespoon) chopped fresh

thyme

ounces) butter (about 75 ml/V3 cup), melted

2 sprigs fresh

thyme

POTTED HAM Place the chaps in a large

with water, bring to for

3—4 hours. Remove

reduce

it

pan with the

a boil, then

onion and

celery.

Cover

the chaps and set aside. Boil the stock to

to at least half

enough,

carrots,

reduce the heat and simmer

of its original volume.

strip

away the

fat

When

the chaps are cool

and place the meat in

a large

mixing bowl.

Add the potted ham ingredients to the bowl along with 30 ml (2 tablespoons) of the reduced stock and mix well. Decant the mixture into small

melted butter and top with fridge to

set. It

M€nW 28

:

BRINING

jars, seal

a sprig

will keep for

with a layer of

of thyme. Leave in the

3-5 months.

U/H~€V S€*|S \kt disk

Rollmops are

fillets of

herring rolled around a collection of ingredients (usually

green olives with pimento), and held together with a couple of wooden skewers and cured in brine. Rollmops can be eaten cold, without unrolling, or on bread. After a jar has been opened, they will usually slices of onion, pickles or

keep for 2

to

3 weeks

in the fridge.

Makes 6

1

onion, thinly sliced

1

pickle

6

filleted herrings (butterfly filleted

if

possible,

see pages 156-157)

and freshly ground black pepper

salt

500 ml 175

(2

cups) white wine vinegar

ml 3A cup) water (

50 g

(2

ounces) sugar (about

60

171I/V4

cup)

2 bay leaves

10 juniper berries, gently crushed

6 black peppercorns

ROLLMOPS Bring a pan of water to a boil. 1

Add

the onion slices, blanch

them

for

0 seconds and then refresh in cold water. Slice the pickle lengthways

into eight long slivers. Place the herring salt

fillets

and pepper and

skin side

few

lay a

down on

slices

a board. Season

of onion on each

length of pickle on top (you'll have a couple fillet,

securing

it

Place the rolled

with

fillets

a

wooden

into a

pan

left

fillet.

them with Place a

over) and roll

fillets

that only just holds

them, so they

1

to cool in the liquid.

When

cool, put the

fillets

into sterilized jars and cover with the

marinade. Seal and refrigerate. They will be ready to eat after 1

30

:

BRINING

the

fit

Add the rest of the ingredients and bring to a boil over low Simmer for minute, then remove from the heat and allow the

snugly. heat.

up

toothpick.

week but

will keep, refrigerated, for

up

to 6

months.

METHOD #2

BRINED BEEF Beef that has been cured in brine is known as salt beef, and when salt beef is cooked it is called corned beef. Beef brisket is the ideal beef cut to use - it is fatty and full of connective tissue, which makes it incredibly moist when cooked. It's very similar to pork belly, but much cheaper. Nowadays beef is becoming more and more popular for curing, with specialities like corned beef (see page 36) and pastrami (see pages 108 -109) both making a comeback. The excellent thing about brining beef is that it's one of the easiest methods to do.

PREPARING THE BRINE First

make your

to put

is

all

the

salt

different first

pan and bring

and

until

stir

it

it

to a boil.

Once

cooled, the brine

to use. The aromatics can left until

spiced

the

meat

immersed.

is

daily.

is

ready

7-10

remove the

days,

it

briefly

papertowels. Place

brisket

in a large

it

meat.

onion and celery until

you can

stalk.

easily

pan and cover

Simmer

run

from

and pat dry with

with fresh water, adding a chopped

be strained out or

like the

COOKING YOUR BRISKET the brine, rinse

end of curing, depending on how

you would

that the

one week, turning the meat

After

dissolves.

Skim any scum off the surface and allow the brine to cool.

making sure

Put a lid on the container and refrigerate for

the brine ingredients except

for the salt in a large

Then add

two

to the brine. The

ways of adding flavorings option

brisket,

brine. There are

for

carrot,

an

3-4 hours,

a sharp knife or

skewer

into the meat. Alternatively, take all

place

them

your aromatic spices and

NOW TRY: SALT PORK

in a circle of cheesecloth. Gather

the cheesecloth together to

secure with a

little

form

a bag

and

Salt

piece of string. Bash the bag

pork

is

almost identical to

can be cured with

much more

with the blunt edge of a knife or a rolling pin

cut into small, fatty lardons,

to release the flavors. The spice bag can then

soups or added to salami.

salt beef. It fat

it is

on

it

-

excellent in

be added to the cooled brine, along with the garlic cloves, or boiled in the brine prior to

For 750 g (\Vi pound) pork belly or pork side,

cooling.

dissolve

300 g

(

1

0 ounces) of salt (about 3

ml/ lV 4 cups) in 4 L

CURING YOUR BRISKET You

will

a large,

need

a brining container

1

with a

lid

or

heavy-duty freezer bag. The container

5

ml

whole

( 1

(1 gallon) of water,

tablespoon) of pepper,

cloves

and

5

ml

nutmeg and mustard and

( 1

1

bay

1

add

leaf,

4

teaspoon) each of

seeds.

Submerge the pork

place in .the fridge for

2-4

should be the same dimensions as the piece of

in the brine

meat you

days. Remove the pork from the brine, rinse in

are curing.

Pour the brine into your container and add the

32

:

BRINING

cold water and pat dry before using.

HOW TO MAKE SALT BEEF

A FLAVORED

BRINE FOR BEEF For

4

1

brisket kg (2 pounds) beef

L (1 gallon)

water

ounces) salt 400g 2 (about 400 ml/l Acups) (14

200

g (7 ounces) sugar

(about 250 ml/1 cup) 2 bay leaves containing equal (1 ounce) spice bag, mustard, coriander, parts allspice, juniper, and whole cloves dried chiUes, fresh ginger

25 g

3 garlic cloves

Bring the water, boil in a

salt,

sugar and bay leaves to a

pan and then allow

to cool. Place the

spice bag ingredients in a circle of cheesecloth,

gather the edges together and

Bash the spice bag with the blunt edge of a

Pour the cooled brine into

knife or a rolling pin to release the flavors.

spice bag, garlic

Peel the garlic cloves.

meat

is

and

beef,

submerged. Put

tie

a dish

with

string.

and add the

making sure the

a lid

on

the dish

and

place in the fridge for a week, turning daily.

BRINING

:

33

This quick and easy recipe

makes a

is

great with the salt beef.

If

way

a really unusual

The

delicious starter, lunch or snack.

you don't have

serve salt beef and mayonnaise tastes you can use dill or to

nettle

nettles,

watercress instead.

4

Serves

For the beef croquettes

450

(

plus a

little

plus 2 tablespoons) vegetable

oil,

extra to cook the nettles and garlic

125 g (4 ounces) young nettle leaves 1 garlic

100 ml

(V3

cup plus 2 tablespoons) milk

100 ml

(V3

cup plus 2 tablespoons) beer

45 ml

clove, thinly sliced

5

ml

(3

(1

tablespoons) mustard

teaspoon) cayenne pepper

1

large egg yolk

salt

5

ml

vegetable

(1

cooled

2 eggs

For the nettle mayonnaise

200 ml 3A cup

g (I5V2 ounces) salt beef,

teaspoon) Dijon mustard

and freshly ground black pepper for deep-frying

oil,

SALT BEEF CROQUETTES WITH NETTLE MAYONNAISE To make the mayonnaise, heat a

little

vegetable oil in a pan, then add

the nettle leaves and garlic and saute for 2 minutes. Set aside to cool. Place the egg yolk in a blender with the mustard

smooth, with the appliance running, pour blender until blender,

it is

salt

nettles

and whiz

beef and form

it

batter.

Dip each

still

mayonnaise and

34

:

BRINING

ball into the

2-3 minutes, or

serve while

until

warm a

blitz.

of the

When

oil into the

to a puree.

into large balls.

the eggs, milk, beer, mustard, cayenne

for

and

incorporated and the mayonnaise thickens. Stop the

add the cooked

Finely shred the

a little

and

salt

Whisk together to make a

and pepper

mixture and deep-fry

at

270°C (520°F)

golden brown. Drain on papertowels and

with

few small

a lightly dressed arugala salad, the nettle pickles.

*

We think there should be a corned beef renaissance. Home-made corned beef is full

of depth

and

flavor - nothing like the

a classic breakfast dish and turns

it

into

packaged variety. This recipe takes a hearty dinner with some Irish charm.

Serves

4

1

kg (2 pounds) cured beef brisket

1

onion, roughly

1

carrot, roughly

1

stalk celery, roughly

chopped chopped chopped

butter

2 large white onions, finely diced

4 potatoes,

finely diced

30-45 ml (2-3 tablespoons) of the reduced stock from the curing process (see page 32) 15

IRISH

ml

(1

tablespoon) chopped parsley

CORNED BEEF HASH To make the corned beef, put the beef brisket in a large pan and add

to a boil, then turn the heat

Add enough water to cover the beef, bring down and simmer gently for 3 hours,

turning the beef so that

always in the liquid.

and

the carrot, onion

vegetables

celery.

it is

from the pan and

minutes or until

it

set aside,

Remove

the beef

and then boil the stock

for

and

45

starts to thicken.

Melt a generous knob of butter in a large pan and add the onions.

Cook

for a

few minutes then add the potatoes.

beef and add 1

:

BRINING

to the

5-20 minutes or

parsley

36

it

and

serve.

Now dice

pan along with the reduced

until the potatoes

and beef start

stock. to

the corned

Cook

brown.

for

Stir in

the

which is also known as white bacon, is usually made from pork belly. has more flavor and cooks more quickly than unsalted pork. Along with the onions, potatoes and milk, salt pork is an essential component of a traditional Salt pork, It

seafood chowder.

Serves 4-6

24 clams (about 250 g/8 ounces)

25g

(1

ounce) butter (about 30 ml/2 tablespoons)

150g (5oz)

salt pork, finely diced

chopped

1

large leek, finely

1

large onion, roughly

chopped

2 stalks celery, finely

chopped

500

g

(1

pound) potatoes, peeled and diced

625 ml (2V2 cups) milk 310 ml (1V4 cups) cream (18%) 1

bay

salt

leaf, finely

chopped

and black and white pepper

SALT PORK & CLAM CHOWDER Clean the clams, discarding any that are open and don't shut tap lid

them, and put them into

on

the

a large

pan with

pan and cook over high heat

a splash

few minutes or

for a

when you

of water. Put a until

all

the clams have opened. Discard any that remain shut. Drain the liquid into another container

and

set aside

to the

chowder

When

the clams have cooled

from

-

this liquid will

their shells, setting a

into small pieces, about

1

enough

few aside

cm

to handle,

flavor

brown, add the

leek,

remove most of them

to garnish the dish.

Cut the clams

(Vi inch).

Melt the butter in the same pan and add the to

add extra

later.

salt

onion and celery and

pork.

When

it

starts

fry until soft. Put

the potatoes, milk, cream and bay leaf into another large pan over

medium

heat and cook until the potatoes

start to soften.

Combine

the

potato mixture with the pork and onion mixture, then add the saved

clam juice and simmer

and season with

salt

for 5 minutes. Finally,

add the chopped clams

and white pepper.

To serve, add a few of the reserved clams in their ladle the

38

:

BRINING

chowder over and

sprinkle with

shells to

each bowl,

ground black pepper.

DRY

CURING

INTRODUCTION TO

DRY CURING Dry curing

is just the same as brining - but without the added water. This method has been widely used as a means of preservation since ancient times. Our forebears may not have understood the chemistry, but it is relatively simple: almost all meat contains a high percentage of water, which must be removed to prevent it from spoiling. Salt rubbed into the meat draws out the water and retards the growth of enzymes and microbes.

HOW DRY CURING WORKS

in a coarser form, so rock, kosher or sea salts

we look at our food a little more closely, we see that it has a very complex structure. When we are curing food it pays to

are preferable to table

understand the action of enzymes and

the moisture.

If

micro-organisms the meat. that

of

as well as the structure

Enzymes

are specialized proteins

can help foods to ripen; however, they

way

to stop

food or to freeze are

all

enzymes

harnessed to add flavor if left

,

to

cook the

Mold, yeast and bacteria

it.

microorganisms

cheeses) but

is

that are (just

that the

sometimes

think of ripe

process, so

it

is

at

also

worth remembering

vulnerable during the curing

must be kept

meat and

is

leave

its

It

used to be most

when

the

had diminished and the cool

days had started. Using the

in a cool place.

that curing

the start of winter,

reserves

often loses

unchecked they may ruin

It is

meat

was no accident

autumn

takes time for

it

penetrate the meat and draw out

salt to

common

can also trigger the rotting process. The simplest

the

Curing does not

salt.

happen instantaneously -

it

color.

salt

alone can dry out

hard and

salty,

To counteract

and

this,

it

sugar

usually added to the mixture.

your food.

GUIDELINES The

resistance of different types of bacteria

to salt varies. For

inhibited by

salt

example, salmonella

is

Clean everything that you are going to use

•

Trim the meat of excess

sound

unwanted degradation.

like a battlefield,

but there

advantage that the flavor

is

is

It

•

may

as well,

old-fashioned

though

42

:

it

salt is

DRY CURING

dry cure

the

salt

into the

Use

if

used

meat or

fish

a crock or other large pot, a plastic

container or a

the key ingredient,

acts less harshly as a

Rub

crevices. •

especially if herbs or spices are added.

Good

and unwanted

thoroughly, especially into any creases or

the added

enhanced

fat

bits prior to curing.

sufficient cure to effectively

protect against

fish.

very carefully.

much

higher concentrations. The curing process

must provide

buy good meat or

It is

•

concentrations as low as

3%, but staphylococcus survives in

essential to

•

hardwood box or

•

Keep the meat or

•

Curing takes time, so be patient - good things

come

fish

to those

food

barrel.

cool while curing.

who

wait.

DRY CURING

:

43

H~ is

€SS€ia+w| to i/W€*+

44

:

DRY CURING

or

sW+ -fis^i

vJftk

\ke t€sf ^ffflj

upu c*ia afford

THE ESSENTIAL CURE

cure

To make a basic dry cure, mix a ratio

of

3:

1

by weight. You

will

100 g (3 Vi ounce) of cure per (2 pounds) of meat or spices or flavorings.

more than one

It

need

(

- 375g (13 ounces)

1

1

down,

or

to cure

bottom of the

largest pieces

trying not to

at a

fish.

add

and

and 125g (4 ounces)

and then

fish,

second layer of meat

a

Cover with more cure. Put a

weighing

on

store in a cool place for

sure the liquid that

skin side

them touch. Cover with

meat. Place the container

time.

container,

of meat or

let

container, preferably

pound) of cure

(1

the

at

add the

a layer of cure then

pounds) of meat

500g

salt

at least

kg

1

makes sense

at least

in

Then add your

cut of meat or fish

For example, for 5 kg

you would use

fish.

and sugar

salt

it

on

the

down on

the

lid

a drainer or

4

days,

tray,

making

comes out of the bottom of

your container can drain away.

sugar.

After 4 days

remove the meat from the

ADDING FLAVORINGS

container and repack

You can customize your cure with almost any

it is

ground

flavoring, but lightly

more

spices will impart

flavor than herbs, especially if the spices

Use aromatic

left

this

bare,

rub the cure

second cure for 2 days per

on

pieces

cardamom

for as long as the larger

you can add

top, because they

them out

do not need

take

THE CURING PROCESS

TIMING CONSIDERATIONS

need

large pot or a

There are

a plastic tub, a crock or other

hardwood box or

barrel.

The

made of metal. Rub

of meat or pieces of fish thoroughly with the

areas

around the bones. Spread

a

good

of variables

when you

are

In cold weather, the curing can take longer,

•

Thick cuts need more curing time than

and

and

layer

first.

•

the individual joints

cure, taking care to include any crevices

lots

to cure

determining the length of curing:

container must have drainage holes and must

not be

kg

ones and you'll want to

honey or even molasses.

will

1

.

dried chilies, star anise, black peppercorns and

You

that

(2 pounds) Make sure you put the smaller

spices like

pods. Instead of sugar

making sure

them thoroughly. The meat should now

remain in

have been lighdy toasted before grinding to release their oils.

appear to have been into

it all,

well covered with the cure. If some areas

if

it is

warm

the curing time

is

shorter.

thin ones.

of

•

Personal taste

is

a factor.

DRY CURES AND TIMING PRODUCT \ DUCK, BREASTS about

1

kg (2 pounds)

SUGAR

TIME

I

100 g (3 Vi ounces) (about 125 ml/ Vi cup)

30g (PA ounces) (about 37 ml/

6 days

1

Vh

J

/ J

I 1

[

SALT

OR BACK

PORK, BELLY

2 kg (4

pounds)

tablespoons)

200g

(about 2 L/8 cups)

(about 250 ml/1 cup)

LEG OF PORK

600g (1% pound) (about 625 ml/

200g

about 6 kg (13 pounds)

(7

\

8 days

(7 ounces)

about 2 kg (4 pounds)

1

21 days

ounces)

(about 250 ml/1 cup)

2 Vi cups)

DRY CURING

:

45

METHOD #3

DRY-CURED PORK Dry curing

different cuts of pork will produce a variety of completely different

and textures. We particularly enjoy chaps, hocks and collar of bacon, but apart from the fillet, which is an expensive and very tender cut, there is no part of the pig that doesn't warrant a cure. Dry curing a whole leg results in tastes

something impressive, but, that

everyone should really

said,

CHOOSING YOUR CUT If

you

rock

skills,

ask your butcher to

prepare the meat for you. Although long, a

whole piece of pork

meat and the

belly

meat

is

you want

quite

it

and

making bacon

into

that has the loin

a bit special

very easy to cold-smoke after (see page 142).

it is

(about 250 ml/

is

it is

first

foray

best to use just salt

and

sugar; however, if you are adding any spices or

herbs,

do

it

at this stage, after

crushing them

with a pestle and mortar.

has been cured

Ask your butcher for

collar if

same whatever the

PREPARING THE CURE

just

the cure ingredients. For a

may seem

Curing a whole leg

like a large

undertaking, but the principles remain the

a meaty, well-marbled bacon.

Mix together

cup) and 75g (3

1

ounces) of brown sugar. For your

are inexperienced or lack confidence

in your butchery

salt

start with bacon.

size

-

of the piece of meat

use the same proportions of salt and sugar.

boned

back and belly of pork weighing about 2 kg

COMPLETING THE CURE

(4 pounds), you'll need 200 g (7 ounces) of

After

4 days, take the pork out of the

container and brush any remaining cure back into the container. texture,

becoming

the pork again If

The meat

and pack

will have

Rub

firmer. it

changed

the cure into

back into the box.

any areas are smooth and appear not to have

been cured, rub extra cure into them and

make

sure that they are in contact with lots

of salt mixture. After another 2 days, repeat the process. total

Do

this

once more, making the

cure time 8 days. Finally, rinse with cold

water, pat dry with papertowels

and then hang

in a cool place to dry thoroughly before

pack and refrigerate

Remember

you

it.

that personal taste

is

paramount.

Always make notes about what you've done

and adjust accordingly

to

make

sure that

achieve your desired cure next time. vJf\k

Ucoia

you

HOW TO DRY-CURE PORK

M

£N AROMATIC CURE FOR A LEG OF PORK For a 6 kg (13-pound) leg of pork

600

(Impounds)

g

salt

(about 625 ml/2V2 cups)

200

g (7 ounce) sugar

10 whole star anise 10 bay leaves

45 ml (3 tablespoons) black peppercorns 45 ml

(3

6 dried

tablespoons) coriander seeds

chilies

Lightly crush the spices with a pestle

mortar and put them and sugar.

in

a

Rub some of the

and

bowl with the

a layer

salt

cure into your meat. Place

of the curing mix in a

hardwood

plastic or

container. The container should

have drainage holes in the bottom and a

Lay the meat Sprinkle

have

on

the cure,

on another

more meat,

layer

fat

side

down.

of cure, and

repeat the process.

if

If

you

there

pack

is

it all

any cure

left

over

at

lid.

the end,

around the pork. Cover with a clean

kitchen cloth and store in a cool place to

allow to cure.

DRY CURING

:

47

makes a rich sauce that clings bacon flavor is the star. Home-made pesto made if you prefer.

This recipe

Serves

to the pasta, but the crispy, salty is

4

g

(1

pound) dried pasta

(linguine

is

best

handful fresh

3 garlic

for this)

5

ml

200

(1

it

ready-

For the pesto 1

500

you can buy

best, but

teaspoon) olive

15

ml

(1

tablespoon) pine nuts

15

ml

(1

tablespoon) grated Parmesan

oil

g (7 ounces) dry-cured bacon, cut into

basil leaves

cloves

cheese

small pieces extra l

h

virgin olive oil

onion, finely diced

10 sun-dried tomatoes, finely chopped 175

ml 3A cup) creme (

f raTche

or sour cream

PASTA WITH BACON & PESTO To make the pesto, use

a

mortar and

processor to bash or blend the

pestle, a

basil, garlic,

sufficient extra virgin olive oil to

make

Bring a large pan of salted water to a

a thick paste. Set aside.

boil.

teaspoon of oil to the water and cook so careful not to overcook

While the pasta any

oil

is

:

DRY CURING

Add

the pasta

it is still

and the

quite firm, being

it.

cooking, put the bacon in a large frying pan without

and cook over high heat and cook

48

blender or a food

pine nuts, Parmesan and

until

it

starts to crisp.

Add

the onions

for another 3 minutes, then stir in the pesto

and

METHOD #4

DRY-CURED DUCK BREASTS Duck

breast

a long way.

is

a relatively expensive meat, but

richness

its

means

it

can go quite

served conventionally, either pan-fried or roasted, people tend

If it's

expect a whole breast, but if it's cured then sliced and cooked, a single breast can easily serve three people. There is the added advantage that the curing process preserves the meat, so it can be kept in the fridge and makes an easy, quick and very tasty meal. to

PREPARING THE CURE The process couldn't be

successful, but

simpler.

Mix your

cure ingredients together. Then place a layer of

cure in a container with drainage holes.

some cure side

into the breasts, place

down on

and sprinkle

them

Rub

skin

top of the cure in the container

a layer of cure

on

breast

it

has to be the dark meat

and other white meat

is

it

if

you

can be hot-smoked

112-113) and

(see pages is

meat

the

too lean for

curing and treating like ham. However, lightly cure the

-

^

pm_

truly delicious,

top.

COMPLETING THE CURE After

4

days, take the

duck

breasts out of the

curing box and brush any remaining cure back

changed

into the box. The breasts will have texture,

becoming

firmer.

Rub

the cure into

the flesh again and pack the breasts back into the box. If any areas are to have

smooth and appear not

been cured, rub extra cure into them

and make sure

that they are in contact

with

about For 4 duck breasts, weighing (2

kg

pounds)

of cure. Depending on their thickness,

lots

they will need

1

or 2 days

more -

the finished

cured breast should not give easily pressed between your

duck

the

thumb and

when

finger.

When

breasts are cured, rinse off any

remaining

salt

papertowels.

with cold water and dry with

Hang up

the breasts and allow

to dry thoroughly. Store in the fridge for

weeks.

2-3

1

orange

3

whole

star anise

1 dried chili ]

ounces) rock salt

100

g (3

/2

30g

(1^4

ounces) brown sugar

1

small bunch fresh thyme

Curing turkey meat can also be very

:

DRY CURING

,

remove the zest Use a vegetable peeler to with a pestle from the orange. Crush the spices with the bowl in a them put and mortar and

NOW TRY: TURKEY 50

1

salt

and

sugar.

a

HOW TO DRY-CURE DUCK BREASTS

Trim any loose

fat

or blood off the breasts and

then prick each breast with a skewer on the skin side, piercing about halfway through

making about

1

2 holes in

Put a layer of duck breasts skin side

side

add another

on top of the

cure,

layer

of

layer of breasts, skin

down, and top with

drainage holes in the bottom. Then rub

some

of the cure mixture into each duck breast,

each breast.

down. Sprinkle on another

cure, then

and

Place a layer of the cure in a container with

the rest of the cure.

Cover and store in

Then remove

a cool place for

the breasts

4

days,

from the container,

rub cure into the meat again, repack in the container and cure for 1-2

more

days.

DRY CURING

:

51

When it

cooked, dry-cured duck breast has the characteristics of lean bacon, but its own unique flavor. Deep-frying the duck for just a few moments

keeps

produces crispy slices that are delicious scattered over a salad. The salty duck and sweet oranges in this recipe are beautifully complemented by bitter salad leaves. Serves

4

For the dressing

60 ml U X

[

30 ml

vegetable oil for deep-frying 1

dry-cured duck breast, thinly sliced

15

50

(1

(V2

cup) extra

virgin olive oil

tablespoons) cider vinegar

tablespoon) finely grated orange zest

teaspoon) mustard

g (2 ounces) butter

(about 45

50

ml

2 ml

2 blood oranges

(2

g (2

ml

(3

tablespoons)

ounces) brown sugar (about

60 ml/V4

cup)

2-3 handfuls of mixed salad leaves

CRISPY DRY-CURED DUCK SALAD

WITH CARAMELIZED ORANGES

52

:

DRY CURING

METHOD #5

GRAVLAX This method of dry curing was developed in

way

Scandinavia as a glut of

with

of preserving the seasonal

salmon. Fresh fish were buried in the sand

salt

and herbs and retrieved days, weeks

or months later after they had "f ermented" and

become

palatable.

Today fermentation

a part of the process, but salmon

is still

is

no longer

"buried"

in

a dry marinade. The same method can be used

to

cure any

It's

a great

firm-fleshed

oily,

fish,

including trout.

make a side of salmon last for many meals - once cured it about a week in the refrigerator. Once you've mastered gravlax,

way

to

keep for experiment with flavors and try them with your favorite

will

fish.

HOW TO FILLET YOUR FISH Preparing your is

the

most

you, but

own

filleting a

Gut and clean your it

dry.

fresh-caught fish

Make an

whole

fish if

buying one. You can ask your

fish is a skill

worth having - and

you need

and pat

gills

on one

the top of the head to the belly.

:

the ultimate experience, and starting with a

to

incision with a sharp filleting

knife just behind the

54

is

cost-effective option if you're

DRY CURING

side,

from

it's

Now begin fish

down

easy

fish dealer to

whole one do

it

for

when you know how.

to slice

from the top of the

the backbone,

all

the

way from

head

to

tail,

separating the flesh from the

bone

as

you

go.

Pulling the

up

the flesh as

backbone

loosen the

you work, scrape along

in the direction

of the

tail

to

Slice all the

as

way through

you work your way

removed the

fillet.

the skin

to the

first fillet, set it

tail.

on

the belly

Once you've

aside, flip the fish

over and repeat on the other side.

Before you skin a that

remain

fillet,

remove any bones

in the flesh.

Be especially wary

of pin bones, which are very unpleasant

if

Finally, skin

your

separate the flesh in

swallowed. Feel for bones with your fingers,

if

and remove them with

bones to make

a pair

of tweezers.

fillet.

Starting at the

use

tail,

the knife blade to wiggle along the skin and

one

piece.

Trim your

fillet

needed. Use the leftover skin, head and fish stock.

DRY CURING

:

55

V

FOf

3750

9^ Pound)

Harge bunch

fresh

s,de

dill,

of salmon

chopped

100 g(3V2 ounces) sugar (about 125ml/ 2 cup) sea salt black pepper

Put half the

dill

mixture in the bottom of

and

glazed, flat-bottomed baking dish

Coat the salmon evenly with the remaining mixture.

dill

salmon on

top.

Cover with

a loose sheet

.

-

ideal

:

DRY CURING

of plastic wrap and

put a press on top (see next page) Weight the top

56

a

set the

evenly placed cans from your pantry are

- and

refrigerate for

24 hours.

MAKE YOUR OWN PRESS can

Any

glazed container be used as a press - it doesn't matter what shape is as long as it is large enough to contain a side of fish. Using your container as a guide, cut a piece of wood that sits snugly inside the dish on the bottom. To help make it easy to remove the lid from the dish, add a wooden handle to the top of the lid with a stainless steel screw. the dish

PREPARING THE CURE The

dill

cure of classic gravlax

is

hard to beat,

but other flavors work well too. Try replacing the dill a

and black pepper with the

lemon and orange or 45 ml

zest

of both

(3 tablespoons)

of grated horseradish.

FINISHING IT OFF Before serving, rinse the gravlax thoroughly

under cold water to remove

all

trace

of the

curing mixture. Blot with papertowels to dry.

Cover one side of the finely

which with

chopped

are bitter.

foil

fillet

dill tops,

completely with

avoiding the stems,

Cover completely

and refrigerate until needed.

SERVING

IT

UP

Place the gravlax, dill side up,

Using

the breadth of the slices.

on

a flat surface.

a filleting knife, slice diagonally across

Each

slice

fillet

to give thin,

should have

a strip

even

of dill

along one edge.

DRY CURING

METHOD #6

SALT COD There are a few dishes that really epitomize the curing process, and salt cod is one of them. It oozes history and sums up traditional preserving techniques. It's also incredibly practical and easy to try at home with only two ingredients: salt and cod. The process evolved as a method of preserving fish in hot countries, where it was first salted and then dried in the sun. But salting cod will work anywhere, as long as you have a dry place to store it. We love the taste, but be aware that the cod will not look particularly attractive when it has been rehydrated and is therefore best used as an ingredient in other dishes.

HOW TO SALT A FILLET OF COD The

large white flakes of

cod make

it

perfect for salting.

but other white fish tend to be too fine flaked, so

one

fresh

First,

tray

on

fillet

and cover salt

it

:

the

with

fish.

salt.

Then

DRY CURING

find a large

Place the

and sprinkle more

until covered.

58

It is

possible to

salt a fish like

reconstituted can

haddock,

become mushy. For

of cod you will need 400 g (14 ounces) of salt (about 500 ml/2 cups).

wash and dry

the

when

salt

cod

fillet

over the top,

Use your hands the crevices a

to gently

massage the

salt

and evenly cover the cod in

generous layer of

salt,

into

Pack the

salt

onto the

fish

and

transfer

sheet of muslin or cheesecloth.

Wrap

it

to a

the fish

in a double layer of the fabric, using string to

hold

it

Place the freshly

with

a tray

and leave

wrapped

beneath

for

it.

fish

Place

it

on

a

wire rack

in the fridge

24 hours.

gently in place.

REHYDRATING SALT COD

After

24 hours, unwrap the

well in cold water. layer

fish

Rewrap with

To rehydrate the cod, soak

a single

cold water, changing the water a few times to

of muslin or cheesecloth and place in

dish. Leave for

1

week, turning the

fish

discarding any liquid daily. Store for

months

24 hours

and rinse

up

a

remove some of the

it

for

in

saltiness.

and to 9

in the fridge.

DRY CURING

:

59

Fish pie takes

many

different guises,

and

version.

The mornay sauce

topping.

We like to serve this with boiled

lemon

Serves

zest,

gives

it

a

4

1

(1

/4

bouquet

40 g (lV2 ounces) Dk tablespoons) 20

pound) salt cod, desalted of fresh thyme,

garni containing sprigs

parsley and bay leaves (to be used

when you

desalt the cod, optional)

500 50

g

(1

cod

salt

mo may sauce

For the

3

g

our twist on a

creamy texture and a golden brown new potatoes, mixed with capers and

and a parsnip puree.

For the cod

800

this recipe is

rich,

(

A ounce) 3

flour (about 37 ml/2V2 tablespoons)

425 ml

(l /4

75 g

ounces) Gruyere cheese, grated

(3

cups) milk

2 egg yolks, beaten

pound) spinach

g (2 ounces) butter, plus

3

g

butter (about 37 ml/

30 ml more

for the gratin salt

(2

tablespoons)

40% cream

and freshly ground black pepper

dish

75 g

(3

ounces) Parmesan cheese, grated

chopped fresh parsley and chives

SALT COD FISH PIE To make the sauce, melt the butter and

stir

in the flour a

little at

a

time until the mixture resembles a smooth, shiny paste. Next add the milk a

little at

a time, using a

whisk

to

mix

it

in.

Completely

incorporate each addition of milk before adding the next one. You

should end up with a glossy sauce. until

it

melts.

Remove

the sauce

Return to the heat and bring to

Add

the Gruyere cheese

the heat. Stir the cream into the sauce and season with

Preheat the oven to

Put the

salt

cod

flesh

is

salt

stir

yolks.

take off

and pepper.

200°C (400°F).

in a pan, cover

it

garni. Bring to a boil, reduce to a

5-6 minutes,

and

from the heat and add the egg a boil for a final time and then

with water and add the bouquet

simmer and poach for its opaque appearance and

until the fish has lost

the

white. Drain then flake the fish using a fork, taking care to

remove any bones. Bring a large pan of water to 5

a boil.

Add

minutes, and then drain, squeezing

all

the spinach, blanch for

the water out of the leaves.

Melt the butter in a large pan, add the spinach and cook over low heat for 5-10 minutes. Line a buttered gratin dish with the spinach, put the

cod on

top,

Parmesan and

and pour the mornay sauce

bake until

brown and

over. Sprinkle

bubbling.

Sprinkle with the parsley and chives and serve.

60

:

DRY CURING

with the

METHOD #7

SALTED CAPERS Capers are the flower buds of the caper bush (Capparis spinosa), a plant that grows particularly well in arid conditions, for example in Sicily, where capers are used in dishes such as puttanesca sauce. We use capers in a range of dishes, from salads to pizzas and even in our fish cakes. If you can't find fresh caper buds, you can use the same technique with nasturtium seeds before they are ripe, and we've also enjoyed experimenting with chive buds, wild garlic and elderberries. The piquancy is drawn out by the simple curing process, and, once salted, the capers will keep for about a year. You can use them as a really interesting addition to salads, fish or pasta sauce.

PICKING THE BUDS If

you're lucky

enough

& SEEDS

to have a caper bush,

pick the unopened flower buds before they ripen. Otherwise,

you can use any of the

If

you want

to use chives or

wild garlic instead

of capers, pick the buds before they flower.

Nasturtium seeds are best picked

just after the

flowers have shed their petals and while they

firm and green

-

following: chive buds, wild garlic, nasturtium

are

seeds and even elderberries.

to a traditional caper. Pick elderberries

still

the fruit leave

is

they are close in size

when

not quite ripe and remember to

enough on

the tree for the birds.

SALTING YOUR CAPERS To transform the buds and seeds into capers, put them into a jam

jar

them with rock

Leave for 4—6 hours, then

salt.

wipe off as much of the

and completely cover

store

them

salt as

peppercorns. Don't worry too getting off

all

the

salt,

been drawn out can that

may

is

you can and

in a clean, airtight jar

with

much

a

few

about

as the oils that have

leave a small salty residue

helpful for the preserving process. You

like to

soak the capers for 10-15 minutes

before use, though, to reduce the saltiness.

NOW TRY:

1 62

:

DRY CURING

HERBS

Following the same method

you can

as for the capers,

also cure herbs for storage.

herbs that are

at their

best

Choose

and harvest them

I

OUR SALTED MIXED HERB SEASONING

the fridge and can be stored in straight into soups, add to convert

This seasoning

I very

even omelets. sauces, stews or

grated carrot 45 ml(3 tablespoons) 45

ml

(3

spring onions tablespoons) chopped

such as chopped green herbs, a selection of savory and marjoram chervil, chTves parsley, coarse salt

spring onions

carrot, Mix together the ,n the Put the mature and chopped herbs. sprrtle it w,th and bowl glass a bottom of the bowl coarse salt. Cover th,ck layer of

couple the fridge for a .drawn that lipu,d the : fw ee k s.Drain off vegetables, then put out of the herbs and store ,n sterilized jar and

and then place

it ,n

Te salted rrtx in a fridge.

the

in easy-to-handle sprigs.

Pack the herbs into

an airtight container, such as a jam

pack coarse

salt

keep fresh for a couple of months a dark,

if

and will

stored in

dry cupboard. These salted herbs are

perfect for

when

jar,

round them. The herbs

slow-cooked roasts in the months

the herbs outside are struggling because

the weather has turned cold.

kerbs

s^ritffS of-

DRY CURING

:

63

Preserved lemons are widely used in North African cooking, particularly in Moroccan cuisine. Adding them to rice or couscous dishes instead of salt will give your food an amazing lemon scent.

Makes

1 Large jar

5

ml

(1

teaspoon) coriander seeds

5

ml

(1

teaspoon) black peppercorns

5

ml

(1

teaspoon) fennel seeds

x

k

150 3

cinnamon, roughly crushed

stick

ounce) rock or sea

g (5

salt,

not table

salt

bay leaves, crushed

9 unwaxed lemons

30 ml

(2

tablespoons) white wine vinegar

& HERBS IN SALT Put the whole spices and cinnamon in a small frying pan and heat for a

minute

to release the flavors. Put

them

into a

bowl with

the

salt

and

crushed bay leaves and mix together.

Make 4—5

vertical cuts into the

halfway through the

flesh.

lemons, through the peel and about

Push the spiced

lemons, and then squeeze them into a

of the spiced

salt

over the lemons to coat them

Push the lemons firmly

down

into the

wine vinegar and enough cold water the jar

and

:

DRY CURING

into the cuts in the

jar,

jar.

when

Shake the

they are in

last

situ.

and then pour in the white

to just cover

them. Put the

lid

on

store in a cool place.

These lemons will be ready to

64

salt

large, airtight

eat after

unopened

for a couple of years.

the liquid

still

about a month and will keep

Each time you remove one, make sure

covers the lemons and that you reseal the

jar.

AIR

DRYING

INTRODUCTION TO

AIR DRYING Air drying

is

one of the oldest methods of preserving and drying food, and

a step up from brining or dry curing. In hot climates food can be dried in the sunshine to increase its storage time. In cooler regions air it is

just

drying

is

a slower process but can

still

be achieved with good ventilation.

A degree of humidity in the air isn't a bad thing - don't worry about some moisture because

it will prevent your salami from going too wrinkly. If you near the coast, a slight sea breeze is actually a good thing. The keys to effective drying are good air circulation, a fairly constant temperature and

live

avoiding direct contact with moisture.

HOW AIR DRYING WORKS Air drying

much

pretty

is

be cured before you even think about

as simple as

sounds. Drying meat and fish requires

work than approach

is

technique that air

fruit

is

similar for to

drying.

more

brining (pages

and vegetables, but the

hang cured meat outside so

can pass over

it

1

8-2

1

and draw out any

able to that

it

sucked out of it. Smaller cuts such

need

unwanted

of ham, but both need

Once

GUIDELINES Cure your meat or

•

Separate items that are drying to maximize

before air drying.

fish

Check on your meat or

fish

weeks and keep an eye out •

•

every couple of for

a stiff

salt to

cure has done salt

bacon

as

time than a large leg aid the process.

its

wash

or

work, scrub off the brine

solution and pat the meat or fish dry.

brush and vinegar before

Trust your nose

wrong, don't

-

if

eating.

something smells

risk eating

What you wrap your chosen item

in

is

almost as important as where you air-dry

mold.

Clean your air-dried product thoroughly

with

salt

less

THE PERFECT WRAP

air flow. •

the

off any remaining

•

Muslin and

cheap, easy to find and allow a really good

flow of air. Try to wrap the meat or just a single layer otherwise

it.

air in to

you

fish in

will not

help with evaporation.

THE CURING PROCESS

Another material that works very well

Before preparing to air-dry something

fine cloth netting, available online

important to give

it

a

in temperate regions air

head

where there

:

is

plenty

and not much sun. In these

circumstances meat and

68

it is

start, especially

AIR DRYING

fish

should always

it.

cheesecloth are ideal, as they're

allow enough

of rain in the

be

to

has already had a lot of moisture

will obviously

and fungi.

cure

salt

you want

hang up the cut of meat knowing

moisture, thus preventing the growth of bacteria

or by dry

)

(pages 42-45). Generally,

of them. The basic

all

air

The curing process can be done by

it

specialty kitchen stores.

Use

string to secure

the wrapping around the meat or

butcher's hooks to hang

it

is

and from

up.

fish

and

A DRYING BOX If

you don't have a covered outbuilding or

shed, you can

you need

is

make

yourself a drying box. All

some screening

for the sides

and bottom

roof or a metal garbage can

and a strong hook

or fine material

of the box,

a wooden

lid to deflect

the

hang the box from the eaves of your house or from a tree branch. Try to make it large enough so that no part of rain,

the product

is

to

in direct contact

or bottom of the box.

You

with the sides

really

want the

product to be suspended inside. Alternatively, you could try adapting an old cheese safe or making a wire mesh cage. The most important aspect is to make sure that air can fly through but insects and animals can't get in.

70

:

AIR DRYING

HANGING LOCATIONS to successful air drying

The key

is

to place

your wrapped investment somewhere where

24 months.

to •

- anything from

can hang for a long time

it

of reach of animals

to be out

and children. •

Not

your head on •

Under

•

In an

it

air-dry your product,

will keep

and the more the

flavors will intensify.

PRODUCT

open place with good all-round

there's a

DRYING TIME

air

Air-dried

somewhere where

Ideally

The longer you

it.

cover, avoiding rainfall.

circulation. •

TAKE?

the longer

your way - you don't want to bang

in

HOW LONG DOES IT

needs to be:

It

High enough

2

through

Mojama

ham

(tuna loin)

4—18 months 1

draft. •

Not

in direct sunlight.

•

Not

in

•

If possible, in

fairly

complete darkness. an area that can maintain a

month

Bresaola (beef)

3

weeks

Jerky

2

weeks

1

month

Mutton

constant temperature.

Salami

1-2 months

THE MECHANICAL ALTERNATIVE A more to

controlled

buy an

way

to air-dry indoors

is

dehydrator or food dryer.

electric

Both appliances will speed up the natural process of moisture being food.

The

fact that

drawn out

the

r

they are controllable

means you can predict when your food is

done, which

compared

is a

significant advantage

to letting the natural flow of air

do

the drying.

These specialty gadgets create the perfect

environment for drying. With internal ventilation

and the

ability to adjust the

temperature, they are great for meat and vegetables.

come

The downside

cheap.

would be

One way

to take

electric fan at the

few holes corks,

at

that they don't

improvise your

an old cupboard,

some wire shelving an

to

is

inside

and then place

bottom. Then, cut

the top, the

own

install

same

size as

a

wine

and control the air-flow by adding or

removing corks

to restrict or increase

it.

AIR DRYING

:

71

METHOD #8

HAM

AIR-DRIED Genuine Parma ham

one of Italy's most famous ham. Every year we make our own version using this simple method. Follow the instructions closely and use the precise foods

-

is

the ultimate air -dried

ingredients specified in order to avoid spoiling

your meat. leg

Any

cut of

meat

leg for

will do,

and a whole

we like to cure a boned You could also consider

a showstopper, but

is

everyday eating.

starting with something smaller, like a piece of

bacon or the chaps. This for a large air-dried

you the chance

will give

cure until you have created your

own

mixes with the

Buy more

more

you

than you think you'll require, as

it's

salt

salt.

When

We

by-product that use plain table

is

salt

drawn

PREPARING TO DRY

because

After

inexpensive and works quickly. Pour your

flavored cure into a large plastic container, ideally

one with

in the

bottom so

and with holes

a lid

drilled

that the liquid brine

can drip

1

6 days in the cure,

remove the meat

and brush off all of the cure mixture, using a stiff

brush and

cider vinegar.

a

generous amount of apple

Wrap

the

ham

securely with string.

CURING YOUR HAM

HANGING YOUR HAM

Put the meat in the container and rub the cure it

with your hands. Work

it

in

all

over the pork skin, making sure you include all

the

little

and

flaps

crevices.

Then cover

container on a large plastic tray and leave

somewhere cool in

your fridge

for at least

there

if

is

1

0 days

it

-

room. Check the

container every couple of days and pour away

any brine that has formed. Brine

when 72

:

the water

is

AIR DRYING

Now hang

worth investing

may occur

drawn out of the meat and

least it,

1

the

a

8 weeks.

more

the process

up

again.

hooks

in for this. Leave the

are

ham

The longer you

at

leave

intense the flavor and the

eventually take it,

up

shed or under an overhang for

dryer the meat.

it

tie it

the meat outside in a dry but

well-ventilated area. Butcher's

hanging in

the pork completely with the cure. Place the

in a large, clean

piece of muslin or cheesecloth and

away from the meat.

evenly into

happens, add

this

and rub the cure back into the meat.

add extra during the process

will have to

to replace the briny

out of the ham.

and are ready

ham.

PREPARING THE CURE salt

your

to alter the flavors in

secret spice combination

Remember that when you down the ham and start eating

is

over and you can't just hang

,

A FLAVORED CURE FOR AIR-DRIED HAM For each 6 kg (13 pound) leg of pork 3 dried chilies

5 garlic cloves large handful fresh

1

4 whole

FINISHING IT OFF After at least

1

8

mold widi

apple cider vinegar. Then trim off

any yellow

fat

and some of the excess white

fat.

Use

as a

ham

seal. Slice

shortest part of the

cut

first

from the hoof to the

ham. Rub

fat

and recover the exposed meat

on

after

this piece

each time

you

carve.

Cover

at

room

temperature. You can buy specialty

it

wooden

15

(1

tablespoon) cumin seeds

12

whole cloves

handful black peppercorns

arl,c,

chilies into a

herbs and spices, gnnd

mortar with the

them w,th

a pestle

into thin

Always keep the piece from the

type of

tablespoon) coriander seeds

UP

IT

a sharp knife to carve the

strips.

(1

Crumble the red

dry with paper towels or a clean tea towel.

SERVING

ml ml

kg (6V2 pounds) 3 salt (about 3 L/12 cups) 1 kg (2 pounds) sugar (about 125 L/5 cups)

muslin or cheesecloth and scrub off any surface

Pat

15

1

weeks hanging, remove the

thyme

star anise

it

with a tea towel and keep

stands for the

ham

to be carved on.

NOW TRY: BRESAOLA This

is

made from

a single

beef muscle.

Prepare the beef by trimming off any

fat

sinews, leaving the silverskin that runs the center of the joint.

Make

a

and

down

simple dry

cure from 100 g (3Vi ounces) each of

salt

sugar (about 125 ml/'/i cup of each).

Add

and

herbs and spices as required (rosemary with

NOW TRY: MOJAMA Mojama air

is

dried

-

a

chunky tuna

fillet

that has

traditionally for at least a

been

month

- and

is

Spain.

The drying reduces the weight by

and the

from the hot and windy coast of

result

is

an intense-tasting

mojama, cure salt /sugar

weeks.

a section

mix

make

and

seal in a freezer bag.

3-4

Turn daily and leave

in the fridge for a week. After a week, clean

and to

and repeat the curing process. Reseal

leave for another week.

Use papertowels

rub off the cure, and hang up the meat,

wrapped weeks

of tuna loin in the

for 2 days then air-dry for

of black peppercorns works very well)

the beef

half,

treat that

keeps for several weeks in the fridge. To

lots

it

in muslin or cheescloth. After 3

should have

original weight

lost

about a third of its

and be ready

and enjoy with olive

to slice thinly

oil.

AIR DRYING

:

73

.

The

air-dried

fish.

The

ham

slices of

provides the saltiness needed to bring out the flavors of the

monkfish wrapped

in

ham

look spectacular, so give

it

a

try;

you won't be disappointed. 4

Serves

fillets of monkfish, about 150 g (5 ounces) each and 5 cm (2 inches) in diameter

2

4

Large slices of air-dried

ham

8 fresh sage leaves salt

and freshly ground black pepper

250

g (8 ounces)

young green beans, topped

and tailed 15

ml

15

ml

tablespoon) extra

(1

30 ml

(1

zest of

virgin olive oil

tablespoons) diced tomatoes

(2

tablespoon) lemon juice 1

lemon

ROAST MONKFISH & SAGE IN AIR-DRIED

HAM

Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F).Trim the monkfish of any colored flesh.

ham side by side on your work surface and put four row down the middle (pulling off the stalks if they are woody) monkfish fillet on top and season with a little black pepper. Fold one

Lay two

slices

of air-dried

sage leaves in a Place a

edge of the

ham

over the fish and tuck

of ham over and

fix

it

in place

Place the fish in a roasting

with the second minutes.

When

fillet.

a

minute or

oil

so.

a large

AIR DRYING

and then neatly

roll the

other edge

pan with the sage

leaves

uppermost, then repeat

should

feel

firm to the touch.

pan of salted water

to a boil

and blanch the beans for

as

you want

their texture to

salt

and pepper. Don't

complement

the firmness of

fish.

warm

:

in,

and tomatoes. Add the lemon juice and season with

Remove

74

it

couple of toothpicks or skewers.

Drain then return them to the pan and toss them with the olive

overcook the beans, the

a

Put the roasting pan into the oven and bake for 8

ready, the fish

Meanwhile, bring

with

the fish

from the oven and allow

place. Slice

to rest for at least 3 minutes in a

and serve with the beans, garnished with

a little

lemon

zest.

common sight to see ham croquettes served as a tapa, a light enjoyed when having a drink. This recipe allows a little of your valuable air -dried ham to go a long way. We like to eat these croquettes with salsa verde and a mixed salad. In Spain

snack

it's

a

that's

4

Serves

30 ml

(2

vegetable

For the

75 g

(3

45 ml 175

75 g

(3

oil,

for deep-frying

filling

ounces) butter (about 75 ml/V3 cup)

3 (

For the coating

heaping tablespoons) flour

(3

ml

tablespoons) finely chopped

ham

air-dried

/4

30 ml

cup) milk

1

ounces) cheese., grated

2

ml

(V2

5

ml

(1

egg,

50

teaspoon) Dijon mustard

tablespoons) flour

g (2 ounces) bread crumbs (about 75 ml/V3 cup)

50 g

teaspoon) Worcestershire sauce

(2

beaten

(2

ounces) rolled oats (about 150 ml/ 2/? cup)

HAM & CHEESE CROQUETTES To make the

filling,

melt the butter in a pan over low heat and add

the flour, stirring continuously.

Cook and

stir

for about 2 minutes,

then remove from the heat and add the milk, a

little at

a time, stirring

continuously to prevent lumps from forming. Return the pan to the heat and cook for about

1

0 minutes, to

make

sure the flour

is

cooked

properly.

Add

the cheese, mustard and Worcestershire sauce and

cheese has melted.

Remove from

the heat

until evenly distributed. Transfer the plastic

wrap

across the surface

and

stir

stir

mixture to a bowl,

and allow

until the

chopped ham

in the

lay a piece

of

to cool before transferring to

the fridge to chill.

When

the mixture

is

thoroughly chilled and firm you can make your

row

croquettes. First, for the coating, arrange three shallow bowls in a

and put the flour in the

first,

the beaten egg in the second and the

bread crumbs and oatmeal, mixed together, in the third.

Form the cheese and ham mixture into eight oval-shaped croquettes. Roll them in the flour until well covered, tapping off the excess. Next, dip them in egg until well covered, letting the excess drip off. Finally, roll

the croquettes in bread

Heat the

oil to

1

croquettes a few oil,

and cook

80°C (350°F) at a

until

:

AIR DRYING

in a

deep

set

them

aside

on

a plate.

fryer or a large pan.

Add

the

time, so as not to lower the temperature of the

golden brown.

Serve the croquettes with a

76

crumbs and

mixed

salad.

This cured and air-dried tuna

The

oils in

is

delicious with olives

and a small

the toasted almonds really bring out the flavor, and

another food that works as well with the rich flavors of the tuna

Serves

100

40

can't think of

loin.

4

g (3^2 ounces)

extra

glass of beer.

we

mojama

virgin olive oil

g (IV2 ounces)

whole almonds

sea salt

MOJAMA WITH ALMONDS Slice the dried

place

it

on

tuna very

thinly, so that

a plate that has a raised lip.

it is

almost transparent, and

Drench

in olive oil

completely cover the tuna - and leave to marinate for

Meanwhile,

toast the

whole almonds

in a dry

pan

- enough

at least

until

you

1

start to

smell them.

Arrange the mojama on a

and sea

78

:

AIR DRYING

salt.

platter,

sprinkled with the toasted almonds

Serve with olives and crusty bread.

to

hour.

METHOD #9

MUTTON

AIR-DRIED Charcuterie

hand

in

is

generally thought of as a Mediterranean speciality that goes

hand with ancient

climates there

is

olive groves and abundant vineyards. But in cooler a rich tradition of curing and smoking at home that has come

from years of experience.

A polar opposite to the image conjured up by a

Parma ham

such as

classic

air-dried mutton.

is

a speciality famous in

It is

areas of Scotland, where legs of mutton were brined and then dried above the

smoky peat

popularity,

and

fires of if

many a

try replacing the air-dried

the flavor

is

ham

in

subtly different but

Now

once again growing in yet, a must. Once you've made it, any recipe with air-dried mutton instead -

rural croft.

you haven't tried

still

it's

it's

it

delicious.

CURING YOUR MUTTON Place the

mutton

in a large plastic container

and add the flavored

brine. Put the lid

on

the

container and leave for a week, making sure the

A FLAVORED BRINF phd MUTTON

AIR-DRIED ^32.5 kg 2kg 8

(5V2 pound) leg of

mutton

(4 pounds) salt (about 2L/8 cups)

Liters (2 gallons)

water

2 bay leaves 1

whole

star anise

mid

teaspoon) chopped 5 fresh ginger mid 15 tablespoon) pink peppercorns 15

ml(1

Make up salt

^espoon)

coriander seeds

bnne solution with normal table and water until dissolved (see oaal f a

m

when apotato

80

:

floats

AIR DRYING

in

it,

Add

J herbstd

mutton

stays

completely submerged - a

ceramic flowerpot works surprisingly well to prevent

it

from

floating. After the

mutton has

spent 7 days in the curing solution, pour off the liquid, replace with fresh brine

and

across the grain

the meat

now

it

does not matter

how

was before curing and drying:

tough it

will

be easy to chew.

leave

Compared

for a further 2 weeks.

to a

normal portion of meat

for a

meal, air-dried meat should be eaten sparingly

because of the high

DRYING & FINISHING Remove

the

mutton from the

brine. Pat the

mutton dry with papertowels, then wrap muslin or cheesecloth and below).

Hang

it

up

tie

in

with string (see

of the

an antipasto or try eating

8-16 weeks. Then

it

richness,

mutton

as

with bread and

a

NOW TRY: GOAT

remove the wrappings and clean the mutton

If

goat? Goat meat

stiff

brush

you want

a

change, is

why

air drying.

UP

mutton, or

Air drying concentrates flavors

When you

cut the

and firms up

not try air-drying

nice and lean, so

perfectly suited to curing

before carving.

the flesh.

and the

air-dried

sweet chutney for a delicious snack.

with apple cider vinegar and a

IT

little

in a sheltered but well-

ventilated area for a further

SERVING

salt level

Serve a

flavor.

it's

and especially to

Follow the same method as for the try air-drying

jerky (see pages

94-5)

it

as thin strips

for a

week

of

first.

meat very thinly

HOW TO WRAP A LEG OF MUTTON

When

wrapping the

leg of

mutton

in

muslin

or cheesecloth, cover the leg completely in a single layer

of material. This will provide

Tie the wrappings firmly in place with string. It is

important to make sure the string will not

move during

the

months of drying.

protection from insects but won't restrict air flow.

AIR DRYING

:

81

When we something

mutton Serves

to

heard about the process of air drying mutton like prosciutto, it was we couldn't wait to try. Most good butchers will be able to source you air-dry, but you may have to wait a while to get a good-quality cut.

4

For the marinade 15

500 6

g

pound) Lamb neck

(1

slices

fillet,

whole

5

of air-dried mutton

ml

ml

(1

(1

tablespoon) chopped fresh mint

teaspoon) fresh thyme leaves

zest and juice of

1

lemon

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

For the root broth

125

olive oil

15

1

large onion,

chopped

1

ml

ml

(V2

(1

cup) white wine

tablespoon) olive

oil

pinch salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 carrots, finely diced

2-3 large potatoes, cut into

250

g (9

1

cm

For the garnish

(V2-inch) dice

1-2 slices of air-dried

ounces) pearl barley (about 375 ml/

1^2 cups) 1

5

large sprig fresh

1.2 L (5 cups)

ml

(1

mutton

teaspoon) chopped fresh mint

thyme

chicken stock

LAMB WRAPPED IN AIR-DRIED MUTTON WITH ROOT BROTH Put the lamb

Cover with as

fillet

plastic

in a

bowl and add

all

the marinade ingredients.

wrap, put into the fridge and leave to marinate for

long as you can; 3-4 hours will really make a difference to the

but

To make the broth, heat

cook

Simmer

for

Preheat your oven to

lamb

fillet,

take

it

the slices of air-dried

toothpicks sheet

a little oil in a pan,

Add the pearl 30-40 minutes

for 5 minutes.

stock.

the

add the vegetables and

barley and thyme,

stir

and add the

or until the pearl barley

240°C (475°F). When you

is

tender.

are ready to

cook

out of the bowl, reserving the marinade. Wrap

mutton around the fillet, securing them with the wrapped fillet on a nonstick baking

if necessary. Place

and use

a

brush to paint the air-dried mutton with the leftover

marinade. Cook in the oven for 6-8 minutes, remove, cover with

and

set aside to rest for

When

the

air-dried

the

are

both ready, make the garnish. Cut the

fine strips

fillet

and heat in a dry frying pan.

into equal-sized disks

AIR DRYING

Slice

and serve on top of a

of broth in wide-rimmed bowls. Garnish with the fried

dried mutton and chopped mint. :

foil

3-4 minutes.

lamb and broth

mutton into

wrapped lamb

ladleful

82

taste,

you're short of time, just rub the marinade into the meat.

if

air-

METHOD #10

SALAMI Sausages are an invaluable way of processing large amounts of lower quality meat, but their shelf -life is short unless they are stored in the freezer. What's the answer? Cure the meat and make air-dried salami instead. The number one

making salami

benefit in

And

the curing process.

made

is

that

salami

lasts for

it

months and stays fresh because

only from pork, but other meats, including beef, can also be used. For our

we

salami

like to use

own

cure your

a fairly fatty cut of pork, such as shoulder, but any part of

The

the pig will work.

addition of cured pork fat

46

(see pages

-47) or

buy

it

essential,

is

and you can either

ready-cured. Because the fat will

cure at a different rate from the fresh pork in the rest of the salami, curing process a head start and

means

PREPARING THE MEAT If you have a meat grinder,

start

you'll

definitely the creative part.

by cutting

-

really

way through

can work

its

lots

the grinder. If you don't have a grinder, don't

our

worry -

more

-cm (1-inch)

dice

buy some ground pork from

just

We

local butcher.

we

and used

hand-powered gadget.

was

a traditional

even kept pigs,

seriously hard work,

upgraded

whole process very quick and

the

•

of different

favorites are

to try

on page

the salty meat.

86, but there are lots

It

German - Juniper

berries

as dicing the

to dice the

pork

fat

1-cm

•

Garlic saucisson

and speckled look

easy.

need

of other

mixed

('A-inch) cubes.

to the cut

•

results in

process.

Do

the grinder,

though -

mixing bowl

as

it

chunky

fat

platters.

Longaniza - A highly seasoned Spanish

fennel that goes particularly well with

should go into the little

PREPARING THE CURE

cubes.

The difference with salami

84

:

AIR DRYING

array

flavors in stews, stuffing or

egg dishes.

through

ADDING FLAVOR Adding herbs and

an intense

among an

sausage flavored with hot peppers and

rounds

of salami but will also help with the curing not put the pork

of black

- Adding huge amounts

of garlic to the mix

These will not only provide the distinctive texture

lots

served with bread and a pint of beer.

makes

pork meat, you also

into

and

this perfect for a rustic lunch,

salami that can stand out

As well

of salami, and

styles

once you're confident.

pepper make

and we have

an electric grinder now.

to

that are

started sausage-making

years ago, long before

It

Use herbs

aromatic and a bold pepper or spice that

There are

2. 5

gives the

it

end up with perfection.

roughly big enough to be squeezed through

your pork into

your

of

was

absolutely delicious. Originally, salami

is

spices to

is

your salami

is

mixed

is

that the cure

into the meat, rather than being

applied to the exterior. Use

at least

2%

weight

of salt to meat and mix salt

to penetrate

it

well. You

the pork, and

all

a salami either succeeds or

the

want the

this is

Table

fails.

salt is

most economic choice, but you can

other types of

FILL

THE CASINGS

Our sausage-making machine

many

a selection

always

try

salt.

PREPARING TO itself

where

has paid for

times over. Every year

we make

of sausages and salami and they

make

us smile

Making them

is

when we

pretty

eat

good fun

them.

too.

It's

hard not to enjoy the change from flavored

ground meat

to

uniform sausage.

If

you don't

have a sausage-making machine, don't that stop

you from giving

it

a

try.

Use

let

a large

funnel and a spatula to force the ground meat

through the pipe and into the casings.

We

opt for natural casings because

we

think

they are better. They have thousands of years

of tradition behind them, they a

make use of

waste product from the meat industry and

the skin of the intestine breathes better than artificial casings,

allowing smoked flavors or

cooking ingredients to penetrate the salami

and infuse

it

FILLING

THE CASINGS

with

pinch the place where you want to

tie

casing off and twist the sausage. Use string to

make

a

knot and then

start

the

some the

process again and continue until you have

used up

all

your salami mix.

flavor.

HANGING YOUR SALAMI Keep your casings moist, in and wet them funnel. You

as

a

Use

bowl of water,

you put them onto the

need

to use

Keep

a

your thumb and

a

air

bubbles. As

end of the casing and

mix through, use

start to

the other

them

off.

Hang them and leave

you pinch

many

for

it

has

natural health benefits. For example,

contains lactic acid, the

in a

month. During the hanging process the

salami ferments, and because of this

few centimeters (about

an inch) of it overhanging so that you can

squeeze out any

tied

well- ventilated, covered area

forefinger to roll the entire casing onto

the funnel.

a sharp knife to separate the salamis

once you've

it

which can help maintain

a healthy digestive system.

feed the salami

hand

to evenly

FINISHING

THEM OFF

any white mold on the salami, clean

guide the sausage shape.

If

When you

piece of muslin or cheesecloth. They are then

there

is

them with have reached the desired length

- normally 20-30 cm (8-12

inches)

-

stop,

ready to

a vinegar

slice

and

and water solution and

a

serve.

AIR DRYING

:

85

HOW TO MAKE SALAMI

A TRIO OF SALAMI same proportion of Add your choice of herbs classic to the basic recipe or make a

Every salami contains the

meat

and

fat

and spices

salt.

instructions chorizo or pepperoni. Follow the

opposite to prepare.

Makes 15-20 salami Bask; salami

4

Start

kg (9 pounds) pork

pounds) cured pork fat

1 kg (2

lOOg

&h

by cutting your pork into 2.5

(1 inch) dice. Then dice the pork

(Vi-inch) cubes. You can use a

ml/V2 cup) ounces) salt (about 125

cm

fat

into

1-cm

meat grinder

chop the pork, but dice the pork

fat

to

by hand.

flavorings (optional)

Chorizo flavorings

30 ml

(2

tablespoons) fennel seeds

30 ml

(2

paprika tablespoons) smoked

8

garlic cloves, finely

125

chopped

(V2 cup) red wine

ml

Pepperoni flavorings

25 g

(1

oz) sugar

30 ml

(2

30 ml

(2

15

ml

(1

pepper tablespoons) cayenne tablespoons) paprika

seeds tablespoon) crushed fennel

crushed 2 garlic cloves, finely

Pepperoni

of 4

is

a mixture of pork

and beef. Instead

use 3 kg (expounds) kg (9 pounds) pork, pounds) lean beef.

pork and lkg (2

Pinch the place where you want to casing and twist the sausage. Use to

86

:

AIR DRYING

make

a knot.

off the

tie

some

string

Put the diced pork and pork

bowl and add the

salt

fat

Moisten your casing and put

in a large

and any flavorings

to

funnel. Then feed the salami casing, using

the mixture.

your hand

it

on

mix

to the

into the

to evenly

guide the

sausage shape.

\

Repeat steps 3 and 4 until you have used

your mixture or run out of casings.

all

Hang your

salami in a well- ventilated area

under cover and

leave for

1

month.

AIR DRYING

:

87

Pizza comes in a staggering number of variations, but without a doubt one of the very best is the simple salami pizza. It's great if you have a pizza stone or special pizza pan, to make sure that the pizza has a crispy base, but, fear not, the pizzas are equally tasty cooked on a baking sheet.

Makes 2

pizzas,

(12 inches) In

about 30

For the tomato sauce

cm

dtemeter

extra

For the pizza base 1 (7

2

300

(about

(425 g/15-ounce) can

1

teaspoon) sugar

(V2

200 ml

5

2 garlic cloves, crushed

g/V4 -ounce) package dried yeast

ml

virgin olive oil, for frying

onion, finely diced

1

10 sun-dried tomatoes,

% cup) warm water

salt

tomatoes finely

chopped

and freshly ground black pepper

g (10 ounces) flour (about 625 ml/2V2 cups)

ml

(1

teaspoon) salt

For the topping salami slices

20 black

olives

grated cheese

SALAMI PIZZA Mix Sift

the yeast, sugar and water in a the flour

and

salt

into a large bowl.

well. Flour a

work

then place

in a greased

Leave in a

it

warm

bowl and

surface

bowl and cover

To make the tomato sauce, heat garlic.

1

1

0 minutes.

the yeast mixture and

and knead the dough

place to rise for about

and add the onions and

Add

set aside for

loosely with plastic wrap.

hour.

a little extra virgin olive oil in a

Cook

mix

for about 5 minutes,

until softened, then

pan

add the

canned and sun-dried tomatoes and cook gently for about 20 minutes more. Pass the sauce through a sieve, and season with salt and pepper. Set aside.

Once the dough has risen, preheat your oven to 200°C (400°F). Divide a the dough in half, then flour a work surface and roll out each half to circle

of at

least

30

cm

(1 2

inches) in diameter. Spread each circle with

a the tomato sauce, and then top with slices of salami, black olives and crispy. is base the until or little grated cheese. Bake for 1 5 minutes

88

:

AIR DRYING

There are times when a sweet and spicy meat snack is in order, and on such an occasion we often serve one of our air-dried chorizo sausages. It's a good pre-dinner snack and also happens to taste great with a glass of wine. This quick recipe is our twist on a traditional Spanish tapa dish, and one of the best things about it is that it takes just a few minutes to prepare.

Serves

1

4

Large chorizo sausage

3 garlic cloves, peeled

20 ml

(1

generous tablespoon) honey

30 ml

(2

tablespoons) red wine vinegar

30 ml

(2

tablespoons) red wine (optional)

fresh bread, to serve

CHORIZO TAPA WITH HONEY, WINE & GARLIC Slice the

chorizo sausage into

1

cm

('/--inch) thick

rounds and place them

in a hot, nonstick frying pan. Spread out the slices so they are layer

and

let

them

sizzle

on high heat

all

in

one

until the richly colored oils start to

ooze out of the meat.

Add

the garlic cloves to the pan

When

you've turned them

all

and turn the chorizo

slices over.

over and they are starting to

Add

brown and

wine moving the chorizo around the pan so the sauce doesn't burn. Remove from the heat once the sauce starts to thicken and become sticky. caramelize, add the as well, if

you

Serve while

90

:

AIR DRYING

honey and the red wine

like, to

still

vinegar.

the red

soften the acidity of the vinegar. Keep

warm

with chunks of fresh bread.

warmer is a family favorite. The beef shin becomes amazingly succulent with long, slow cooking, and the flavors in the chorizo infuse the juices so that no extra flavoring is required. We cook this on top of our wood-burning stove, but you can use a slow cooker if you have one. This meaty stew is delicious served with green beans. This slow-cooked winter

Serves

4

1

bottle of red wine (or you can use half wine, half

stock) 1.5 kg (3

300

and freshly ground black pepper

salt

pounds) beef shin

g (10 ounces) chorizo sausage

75-90 ml (5-6 tablespoons) extra

For the dumplings

virgin olive oil

100

3 onions, roughly sliced

g (3V2 ounces) self-rising flour

(about 175 ml/

4

3

/4

cup)

garlic cloves, sliced

50 10 ml

(2

teaspoons) fennel seeds 7

g (2 ounces) suet

ml

(V2

tablespoon) chopped fresh rosemary

2 sprigs fresh rosemary salt

45 ml

(3

tablespoons) all-purpose flour

and freshly ground black pepper

about 45 ml

(3

tablespoons) water

BEEF & CHORIZO WITH

DUMPLINGS Cut the beef into 2-3

cm

(

1

inch) cubes. Cut the chorizo into

1

.

5

cm

3

(

/4-inch) slices.

Heat the

oil in a

them brown

casserole-type pan until very hot.

Add

the pieces of beef and

them too much, as you want to seal the surface and stirring will prevent this from happening. Once they've browned a bit, add the onions and garlic and stir, scraping up the meaty goodness from the bottom of the pan. Cook for 3-4 minutes, then let

in the oil; don't be

tempted to

stir

add the chorizo, fennel seeds and rosemary sprigs and cook 2-3 minutes, stirring occasionally. Sprinkle the all-purpose flour into the pan and

stir

for a further

so that everything

is

Cook for a couple of minutes then gradually add the wine, stirring all the time. The liquid should not quite cover the meat at this stage. Cover and cook on a gentle heat for at least 2 hours (if you can leave it for longer it will be even better) stirring occasionally and if necessary adding some stock coated.

,

or water. By the time

reduced in

size

it

has finished cooking the pieces of meat will have

and the liquid should be covering them completely.

To make the dumplings, mix the dry ingredients in a bowl. Add the water slowly until you can form the mixture into four oval-shaped dumplings; they shouldn't be too last

92

:

AIR DRYING

sticky. Set the

dumplings on top of the liquid

30 minutes of the cooking time.

for the

A

-fWv|, ck-evw\ s\aac£

METHOD #11

BEEF JERKY Dried, gnarly-looking bits of

meat are much more

delicious than they sound. Jerky

meat

cut into strips

and

dried.

portable snack, and for us

with a fishing

the ultimate

goes hand in hand

an afternoon walk

trip or

woods. That said,

it

simply flavored

is

It is

it's

equally at

home

in the

as a picnic

snack or an everyday treat. Jerky is typically made from beef but can also be made using the same method from other red meats, such as goat,

lamb or venison.

PREPARING THE JERKY The

round

best cuts of beef to use are

rump

skirt steak,

steak,

roast or flank steak. You

can either hang the jerky to dry for 4 days

outdoor space

in a well-ventilated

quicker option, dry

SOT

(1

it

or, for

in a convection

the

oven

at

20°F), with the door slightly ajar to

allow moisture to escape. Place a rack

at

the

A MARINADE FC

top of the oven and hang the strips of meat

between the bars with toothpicks. Make sure that

you place

a large piece

to catch any drips.

when

it is

The

jerky

is

ready to eat

pliable but not brittle.

fresh, store

it

BEEF JERKY

of foil underneath

in an old tobacco

To keep

For

kg (2 pounds) flank steak

1

it

pouch or

15

ml

(1

250 ml

other sealed bag.

250 ml

SERVING

IT

UP

Serve the jerky with a Tabasco dipping sauce,

made by

stirring

Tabasco or chili sauce,

of honey,

1

5

ml

(

1

1

1

0

5

ml

ml

(

(2 teaspoons) of 1

94

:

AIR DRYING

(1

1

pinch cayenne

5

ml

4

garlic cloves,

(1

30 ml

tablespoon) of white wine

over a low heat until the vinegar reduces and

before serving.

cup) soy sauce

cup) Worcestershire sauce

teaspoon) ground coriander seeds

crushed

tablespoon)

vinegar and 2 garlic cloves in a small pan

the sauce starts to thicken.

tablespoon) honey (1

Remove

the garlic

(2

tablespoons) freshly ground

black pepper

HOW TO MAKE BEEF JERKY I

Take

any

1

kg (2 pounds) of steak and trim off

fat,

as this will

not dry well. Then freeze

the beef until ice crystals start to form, will

make

it

much

which

slices.

Add

to the

marinade and pour everything into

a

container with a lid or a resealable plastic

and

occasionally.

start

together in a

work on

all

the marinade.

Mix

of the ingredients (see opposite)

bowl and then

set aside.

easier to slice thinly.

Cut the beef into thin

bag. Seal

Next,

refrigerate for 2 days, turning

Remove

the beef

from the marinade and

pat dry with papertowels.

convection oven

door

at

50°C

slightly ajar; jerky

Then dry

(1

it

in a

20°F) with the

can dry in

just

4

hours.

AIR DRYING

:

95

c

HOT

SMOKING

INTRODUCTION TO

HOT SMOKING Hot smoking cooks cured food for immediate consumption, although the can be prolonged by vacuum-packing or freezing. Many hotsmoked foods, such as chicken, duck and salmon, make great cold dishes and salads, but hot-smoked food is best eaten as soon as it's ready. There are two elements in hot smoking food- the clue being in the name. shelf life

HOW HOT SMOKING WORKS Cured meat

•

Don't rush the smoking or you will lose

•

Don't use charcoal impregnated with

cooked and flavored by being

is

wood smoke. Different types their own characteristic flavors,

exposed to hot of wood have

the flavor.

chemicals to light the smoker.

ranging from mild and delicate to dense and

pungent. Hot smoking dries out the surface

TEMPERATURE CONTROL

of the meat, and the smoke therefore does not

The meat

penetrate

your heat source, which can be

it

completely.

actually cooks in the hot gases

from

gas, electric,

charcoal (usually in a barbecue/smoker

GUIDELINES

combination) or even an open

•

Use the

•

Cure the meat or

•

The lower the smoke temperature, the

freshest

smoke

meat or

fish before

diffusion,

smoking time, the •

•

used in

smoking. the better

and the longer the

smoke temperature,

shorter the

smoking time and the shorter of the

final

a conventional oven,

smoking

the meat. This

the

life

that hot

is

Cooking

the

flavor to infuse

slow."

these lower temperatures

250°F) - means

product.

wood

form of cooking "low and

referred to as

which ensures

always a slow- cooking

process, allowing the

better the taste.

The higher

the shelf •

fire.

temperatures are generally lower than those

fish.

that

it

is

sometimes

Cooking

at

- 95-120 °C (200-

will take a bit longer

cook the food, hence the "slow." Indeed,

Don't allow smoking to take place between

to

25°C and 60°C (75-140°F), these are

cooking the food can take anywhere from

which microbes can grow

temperatures

at

to potentially

dangerous

2 to

24 hours, but one of the advantages of

slow-cooking

levels.

Apart from the danger range, don't

fret

become

about the exact temperature - meat

is

thermometer

usually

hot-smoked

at

temperatures in the

95-1 20°C (200-250°F) range, but a matter is

of personal

slightly different.

taste,

However, cooking

taste

and texture of the meat.

:

at

temperature will change the look,

a

HOT SMOKING

that

cheaper cuts of meat can

to

Use

check your smoker

a suitable

is at

the

desired temperature.

it is

everyone's advice

high

98

as

is

tender, succulent meals.

too

SMOKE The wood used

to create the characteristic

smoky

gently heated to

flavor

is

promote

smoldering rather than burning. Usually the

HOT SMOKING

:

99

entire

hot-smoking process

there are

little if

any drying

is

keep the moisture

during the

It is

hot-smoked meats. We have

available

quality,

hot-smokers

but

it is

of weight actually means

0%

process. This

water-smokers. The water bowl not

only adds moisture to the smoking process,

between the heat

source and the food to be smoked, keeping the temperature in water for

produce effect. is

that

down. Soaking wood chips

an hour before smoking will

a similar temperature-regulating

you can influence the

flavors

by using

of your choice - any combination of

stock, wine, beer, spices

:

is

a sign

of

that the

that the flavors

Smoked meats can

up

lose

of their moisture during the smoking

depends on the temperature,

the length of the smoking, the air flow and the humidity in the smokehouse. Eliminating

moisture

is

particularly important

when

the

products are cold-smoked for preservation

purposes rather than hot-smoked for flavor

and immediate consumption.

The added advantage of water-smokers

a liquid

100

1

moist meat

worth considering

are concentrated.

known

also acts as a buffer

tend

that

to

it

we

enjoy the traditional

textures of our

include a water bowl and are therefore also

but

we

been educated

loss

as

of personal choice, but

said, putting

levels high.

Many commercially

a matter

not to water-smoke as

smoker can help

slow-cooking approach. That a container of water in the

enclosed, so

effects

HOT SMOKING

and herbs.

The longer

the

smoking time the bigger

the loss of moisture, resulting in a higher

proportion of salt. The product becomes

drier

and

shelf

life.

saltier

A

during smoking, which

with a

a

much

but has a

supply of fresh is

air is

better

SAFETY! When you are

needed

normally controlled

damper. Exiting smoke also needs

damper

control, otherwise tar

unburned wood

may

it is

you keep

and other

smoking meat or

the food at

is

out of the

range that

is

accumulate, affecting the look and taste

The

dangerous area

of the product.

body temperature,

particles

start to

really

ideal for bacterial growth.

bacteria thrive

CREATIVE COMBINATIONS The scope fish,

smoking

is

flavor

as that

is

near our

is

when

and grow very

quickly.

As a rule of thumb, never cook food in temperatures between 25°C and 60°C

very wide:

fowl and meat can be mixed with any

suitable

is

for hot

fish

important that the temperature

(75-140°F).

smoke, allowing for many different

combinations and

to serve

varieties.

The

trick

your smoked products with

accompaniments

that

complement

in this chapter or use

them

as inspiration for

cooking whatever you have smoked.

the flavors

you have achieved. You can follow the recipes

WOOD FOR YOUR SMOKER

CHOOSING WOOD

CHARACTERISTICS

USES

Alder

Very delicate

Fish and poultry

Apple

Slightly sweet but relatively

Ash

Fast

Birch

Mild

Pork and poultry

Cherry

Slightly sweet

Meats

Chestnut

Nutty

Cheeses

Hickory

Pungent and dense

Maple

Similar to birch

Cheeses and poultry

Mesquite

Strong and dense

Red meats

Oak

Heavy smoke

All

Pear

Slightly sweet

burner with

delicate,

flavor

Red meats and cheeses

dense

unique

flavor

Fish

All

Cheeses and poultry

HOT SMOKING

:

101

.

METHOD #12

HOT-SMOKERS Having your own hot-smoker is an incredible luxury that will give you years of service and provide countless opportunities for delicious meals. Buying a smoker is easy - just have a look online - but we it more satisfying to build our own, using a mixture of old unused items and new ones bought

found

especially for the smoker, like the timber for the

smoke

box. Site your hot-smoker in a shed or other

away from flammable material, and always keep a close eye on it when in use, adjusting the heat and flame as you work. outbuilding, well

CHOOSING A SMOKER

sawdust, our chosen source of smoke,

Commercially

smoldering.

We

which

held

into

fall

two

available

hot-smokers tend to

categories: those for use in the

it,

if

use a blowtorch to light still

for about

A

20 seconds

kitchen (stove-top or electric) and outdoor

provides a strong ember.

barbecue /water-smokers. The range of water-

ducting connects the smoke box to the smoke

smokers

chamber. This separation allows the smoke to

commercially

available

but basically they

pan lid

for water

provides a

all

and

is

staggering,

have a heat source, a

a rack for the meat.

good

seal,

but the

air

The

flow that

controls the temperature of the charcoal

the density of the

smoke

is

and

usually adjustable

cool and also

lets

ducts. For cold it's

just a

smoke air

any sediment

smoking

smoke box and

bottles.

are

plugged by corks from

open determines the

As with a store-bought hot-smoker, you need

the density of the smoke.

a

is

capable of both hot smoking and cold

smoking and has

significant temperature

To use the smoke box

stove that has

no

doors.

it

and spreads the is

a matter of varying the gas flow

A

a bit risky to have a gas ring in a

piece of

plywood

12 -volt fan from a computer keeps the

not severe, since

HOT SMOKING

we

sits

heat. Adjusting the

an old wood-burning

but the temperatures

:

hot-smoker

not very complicated

provides the necessary seal/door and a

102

as a

of metal (copper in our case) that

temperature is

leave

flow and therefore

have a gas ring in the bottom with a piece

above

control (see the diagram opposite)

The smoke generator

air

means

of generating smoke. We designed a smoker that

adjusting the

The number of holes we

MAKING A LARGE SMOKER and

you need -

flow We drilled holes in the top of our

wine

a controllable source of heat

settle in the

that's all

matter of putting what you wish to

into the

smoke box, which

with simple sliding vents.

piece of flexible

we

we keep

are it

It

-

it's

just

may seem

wooden

smoking

at

box,

are

"low and slow."

SAFETY! It is

important to keep safety in mind

when that

using your hot-smoker. Check

all

the

equipment

is

in

working order before you

good

start

and do

not leave the smoker unattended for long periods of time.

Ov/tlef

covts

koots

md

dowi-e\

md

Umqeirs

\M€^a\

when

adds an earthy undulation to to

add

fish dishes

or

outstanding as the basis for a

rather unusual taramosalata.Try blending with garlic, salt

and

olive oil prior to

mashed potatoes

adding to

for fish pie.

COLD SMOKING

:

161

This recipe uses smoked eggs and spicy chorizo to create a unique snack that is perfect to take on picnics. For a different flavor combination, use plain sausage

meat and blend up the egg.

it

with parsley, spring onions and orange zest before wrapping

Makes 8

500

g

250

g (9 ounces) flour (about

pound) fresh chorizo sausages

(1

500 ml/2

cups)

sea salt and freshly ground black

pepper

8 smoked eggs

250

g (9 ounces) bread

zest of

10 ml

1

(2

crumbs (about 500 ml/2 cups)

lemon

thyme

teaspoons) fresh

leaves

2 eggs, beaten

vegetable

oil,

for deep-frying

SMOKED SCOTCH EGG Squeeze the chorizo meat out of the sausage casings and divide into eight balls. Using a rolling pin and working

each

ball into

an oval shape about

(3 inches) across at

other

work

its

1

2

cm

on

a floured surface, roll

(5 inches) long

by 8

cm

widest point and lay them out on a board or

surface.

Season the flour with

salt

and pepper and put

it

in a shallow bowl.

Coat the smoked eggs in the seasoned flour and place one on top of

each oval chorizo disk. Bring the edges of the sausage meat up around each egg so they are

completely covered then form them into oval Put the bread crumbs in a bowl and leaves

each

and

a

pinch of sea

ball into the

two

brown.

162

:

COLD SMOKING

at a

oil for

time,

mix

in the

lemon

zest,

thyme

Put the beaten eggs in a shallow dish. Dip

beaten egg then

Heat the vegetable eggs,

salt.

balls.

roll in the

bread crumbs.

deep-frying in a large pan.

and deep-fry

for

Add

8-10 minutes or

the Scotch

until

golden

This easy recipe shows off smoked Stilton beautifully, and

we

like to

add

buttery leeks and walnuts to complement the cheese. Serve the tart with a fresh salad and

some sweet cherry tomatoes

Serves

to cut

through the creamy texture.

4

3 20g A ounces) butter (about 22 (

plus a

Little

1 leek, finely

5

ml

(1

250ml 1

egg,

mUVh

tablespoons),

for greasing

chopped

teaspoon) lemon juice (1

cup) milk

beaten

100

g (3V2 ounces) cheddar cheese, grated

salt

and freshly ground black pepper

450

g (I5V2 ounces) shortcrust pastry

50

chopped

g (2 ounces) walnuts,

200

g (7 ounces)

smoked

Stilton cheese, roughly diced

SMOKED STILTON TART Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F), and grease a 20

cm

Melt the butter in a pan and add the leeks and lemon

(8-inch) flan pan.

juice.

Cook

gently

until softened then set aside to cool.

Put the milk in a bowl and

with

salt

Roll out the pastry ('A

mix

in the beaten egg

and grated cheese. Season

and pepper.

on

a floured surface until

you have

a circle about 5

inch) thick. Lay the pastry in the dish and use a fork to prick

places. Put a piece

of parchment paper over the

dried beans on top, then put

Remove from

it

in the

it

pastry, spread a layer

oven and blind bake for

1

mm

in a

few

of

2 minutes.

the oven and discard the beans and paper.

Spread the leeks, walnuts and smoked Stilton in the pastry case and pour over the milk and egg mixture. Put back into the oven and bake for a further

164

:

COLD SMOKING

1

5

minutes, until golden.

Stuffed jalapenos are a treat as an appetizer.

poppers are best

when served with a

big Mexican-style

made

them

for your fiesta.

Serves

4

and

the night before

5

left in

ml

salt

(1

the freezer until you need

teaspoon) paprika

and freshly ground black pepper

2 chorizo sausages, finely diced

60 ml

2 red onions, finely diced

2 eggs, beaten

500

g

vegetable

100

g (3V2 ounces)

(1

pound) smoked Gouda cheese, grated

24 jalapeno

100

g (3V2

meal or

We love this version with smoked Gouda cheese. These

(V4 cup) flour

oil,

for deep-frying

cream cheese To serve

chilies

ounces) bread crumbs

sour cream

SMOKED CHEESE & JALAPENO POPPERS Put the diced chorizo and red onions in a bowl with the

Gouda and cream

Slice the jalapenos in half

teaspoon to

fill

Mix together

cheese.

smoked

well.

lengthways and remove the seeds. Use a

the jalapenos with the chorizo

and cheese mixture, and

then press the halves together to re-form the whole jalapenos. Set aside. Put the bread crumbs in a shallow bowl and

mix with the paprika and good pinch of salt and pepper. Pour the eggs into a shallow dish. Put the flour on a small plate and line up the bread crumbs and beaten a

eggs alongside. Dip the jalapenos into the

then dip them into the beaten egg and Place the stuffed jalapenos 2 hours. oil

Cook

right

and deep-fry

for 3

COLD SMOKING

shaking off the excess,

bread crumbs.

baking sheet and put in the freezer for ready.

Drop them

into hot

minutes or until golden brown, and then place to drain off the excess oil.

Serve with sour cream.

:

a

from the freezer when

them on papertowels

166

on

flour,

finally into the

If

you've never eaten cod's roe before, you really must give

shallow-fry

way

it

to retain the delicate

of cooking cod's roe

is

that

smoky

it is

smoky

a

try.

We like to of this

crispy on the outside

and soft in the middle. dish together - the mustard

A quick cream and mustard sauce brings this perfectly complementing the

it

The other advantage

flavor.

cod's roe.

Serves 1

1

spring onion, finely

15 5

ml

ml

(1

(V4

zest of 15

ml

tablespoon) white wine

teaspoon) whole-grain mustard

(1

60 ml

chopped

(1

1

cup) heavy cream (36%)

lemon

tablespoon) chopped fresh flat leaf

parsley 15

ml

salt

(1

tablespoon) flour

and freshly ground black pepper

15-30 ml

(1-2 tablespoons)

3 slices of

about

1

smoked cod's

cm

(V2 inch)

vegetable

oil

roe,

thick

1-2 thick slices of bread, for toasting

SMOKED COD'S ROE WITH A CREAMY MUSTARD SAUCE To make the sauce, soften the spring onion in the white wine in a pan over moderate heat.

When

the

wine

starts to

reduce, add the mustard,

cream, most of the lemon zest and half the parsley. Bring to a boil, then

reduce the heat and simmer for a further minute. Put the flour in a bowl and season with a frying pan.

Dip the

into the hot oil

and

slices

fry for 2

pan and blot off any excess

Make

:

COLD SMOKING

and pepper. Heat the

minutes on each

oil

side.

oil in

them straight Remove from the

flour.

Put

with paper towels.

the toast, top with cod's roe and pour the sauce over. Garnish

with the remaining parsley and lemon

168

salt

of cod's roe into the

zest

and

serve.

1

1 1

11

1

2

1

1

1

1

1

11

INDEX drying 13,14, 66-95

air

pasta with

bacon

bacon 72, 73

48-49

beef jerky 71, 94-95

the ultimate

71,73

bresaola

curing process 68, 71

drying boxes 70 7

dehydrators

electric

72-77

71

mojama mutton salami

78-79 80-3 13, 84-89

71, 73, 7

7,

1

,

wrapping 68,

8

14, 15, 101, 138, 141

flavorings 2

ham 26-27 sauce, cold ham

1

0

almonds 78-9 apples 128-9

wood smoke

apricots

1

0

114-115

guidelines 18

arugula salad relish

&

rhubarb

126-127

wood smoke

wood smoke

0

avocado 144-145

bacon drying 72-73

bresaola 71,73 hot-smoked 98,

record-keeping 2

104,105 brisket; salt

1

18-21

testing

timings 2 brisket

brining 32, 33

beef

Irish

128-129 birch wood smoke 1 0 blini, smoked salmon 148-149 beets

corned beef hash

36-37 62-63 148-149

capers, salted caviar

chaps 1

1

0—

dry-cured 46 potted

1 1

smoked

cod's roe with

creamy mustard

sauce 168-169

144-145

ultimate BLT

71,73

brined beef see

salt

beef

brined pork 22-23

cold smoking 142-145

dry-cured 45, 46-49

injecting brine 23

INDEX

04

hot-smoked (pastrami) 108-111

bacon 21, 22-23 flavored brine 22

brining 21, 22-23

:

1

rollmops 30-3

bresaola

170

1

beef & chorizo with

a 1

1

pastrami 108, 111

pastrami on rye

smoked mackerel with

8

hot smoking, and

bread

arugula

1

barbecue

see

wood smoke

drying, and 68

brine solution

dumplings 92—93 beef jerky 71, 94-95

hanging locations

air

42

ham

brining 12, 18-39

baked glazed

beef

ash

44-

containers 21

beech

apple

1

smoking temperatures

guidelines 68

alder

BLT

air

bacteria

goat 8

9, 69, 71,

pork belly 2 3 see also

with 24-25

71

ham

pesto

145

chorizo 70, 86, 90-93

drying times

&

ham 28-29

cheese cold smoking 8-9, 141, 160, 161

wood smoke for 0 ham & cheese croquettes 1

76-77 salt

cod

fish pie

smoked Stilton 164-165

60-6 tart

cheesecloth wraps 68

2

1

wrapping

a leg

mutton

8

cod roe 161, 162-163 cold-smoker 140-141

of

1

wood smoke 0 chestnut wood smoke 101, cherry

1

1

112 chicken brining 2

1

hot-smoked 112-17

9,

98, 104,

garlic 141

lemon & herbs in 64-65 pork 45, 46-49

guidelines 138, 141

process 45

ham

142-143 kippers 156-159

salt

nuts 141

salted herbs

salami 141

timings 45

eggs 141, 161, 162-163

141,

salt

cod 58-61

salted capers

62-63 62-63

preparing 112-13

temperatures 138, 141

smoked chicken mousse 116-117 smoked chicken terrine 114—115

timings 141

drying boxes, making 70

wood

duck

timing

&

temperatures

hot-smoked 98, 104,

corned beef 32 Irish

croquettes,

62-63

curing

beef & chorizo with

own

cheese

166-167 smoked Scotch egg 162-163 clams 38-39

oranges 52—53

15

hot-smoked 104, 105, 106 hot-smoked duck salad

118-19 timing

&

temperatures

105

dumplings, beef & chorizo

with 92-93

scrambled eggs

150-151

eel,

dry curing 12-13, 40-65

cod

cold-smoked

duck

caramelized

gravlax 13,

jalapeno poppers

breasts

dry-cured 45, 50, 51

drying;

air

54-57 pasta with smoked salmon 152-153 smoked salmon with

86

smoked cheese &

air 1

6

cod's roe with

creamy mustard

sauce

duck

dill

flavorings

smoked

ham &

garlic

90-91

temperatures

salad with

curing boxes, making your

chorizo tapa with

roe,

see

&

crispy dry-cured

brining; dry curing

dumplings 92-93

&

salad

76-77

chorizo sausages

honey, wine

duck

oranges 52-53

166-167 chives, salted

see salt

timing

105

with caramelized

jalapeno poppers

cod

105, 112

corned beef hash

crispy dry cured

smoked cheese &

cod

turkey 50

36-37

chilies

a

14—15,

for

138-140

105

cold

kippers 156

168-169

ham with barbecue

sauce 24—25 cold smoking 14—15,

drying, and 68

eggs

containers for 12-13,

42, 45

duck

cold smoking 141, 161 grilled kipper

breasts 45,

flavorings

smoked 106, 124

unagi nigiri 130-131

50-53

158-159 smoked salmon with

45 54-57

gravlax 13,

guidelines 42

and hot smoking

136-169

chicken

cheese 8-9, 141, 160

pigeon breasts

1

kedgeree

with poached egg

scrambled eggs 1

04

1

1

20

150-151

smoked Scotch egg 162-163

INDEX

:

171

2

1

1

1 1

elderberries, salted 62

in

74-5

baked glazed 26-27

fish

brining 21, 22-23 cold

rollmops 30-3

ham

dry curing 42, 45

ham &

hot smoking 101,

76-77

104-106

potted

106

eel

timing

&

temperatures

air-dried

& sage in ham 74-75

mackerel; salmon

smoked salmon 154-155 fish pie 60-61 fish cakes,

with taramasalata

1

6

flavorings air-dried

ham

73

brines 21, 22, 33, 80

ham 28-29

smoked duck and 1

stove-top 107

salami 85, 87

temperatures 98, 105

herbs

timings

air-dried

ham

brine mixtures 2

1

1

German

84

salami 84

gravlax 13,

kippers grilled kipper kedgeree

with poached egg

158-159 making 156-157

chicken

54-55 press

57

grilled kipper

kedgeree

9, 98,

curing for

1

112-113

04

duck 98, 104, 105, 106, 112 eel 106, 124

with poached egg

guidelines 98

158-159

mackerel 104, 124-125

guacamole 144-145

meat

&

fish

104-106

preparing 104

ham

timing

air-dried 68, 71, roast

172

:

monkfish

INDEX

72-73

&

sage

&

serving

1

56

garlic

94

making your own for

&

hot smoking 14, 96-135

54-5 7

filleting the fish

0

36-37

Tabasco dipping sauce

goat, air-dried 8

1

corned beef hash

Irish

90-91

4

for

in salt

herrings

honey, wine

garlic saucisson

05

water smokers 100, 104

wood

23

lemon & herbs 64-65 salami 84 salted 62-63

1

turkey 104, 112

73

chorizo tapa with cold smoking

0

preparing 104

honey

90-91

1

choosing 102

1

hickory 101

1

with

making 102-103

72

kippers

salami 84, 86

garlic

safety

smokers

156-160 rollmops 30-3 1

dry curing 45

turkey

ham

98-100 120-121

process rabbit

cheese croquettes

locations 7

monkfish

see also

pigeon breasts 107, 123

hanging air-dried food

105 roast

with barbecue

24-25

sauce

1

1

pastrami 108-109

electric dehydrators 7

brining 21

1

,

temperatures

lamb hot-smoked 104 lamb wrapped in airdried mutton with root broth 82-83 lemons

lemon & herbs in salt 64-65 lemon zest in gravlax 13, 54-57 smoked chicken terrine 14-115 lime 154-155 1

longaniza 84

104-105 oysters 106,

132-133

mackerel, hot-smoked

1

04

3

preparing

1

24-1 25

1

smoked mackerel

pate

pig's

duck

crispy dry cured

salad with caramelized

&

rhubarb

relish

126-127 1

54 mayonnaise 34

lime mayonnaise

1

meat drying

brining

1

1

terrine

timing

with

1

mojama

(tuna loin) 73 7

1

mojama with almonds 78-79

pasta with

bacon

& sage in ham 74—75

mousse, smoked chicken

116-117

105

ribs

pesto

smoked

salt

mutton 80-81, 82 hot-smoked 104 air-dried 71,

nasturtium seeds, salted 62

mayonnaise 34-3 5

smoking 141

& clam

wood smoke

1

05

brined pork;

potatoes

baked 24-25

lamb wrapped in air dried mutton with root broth 82-83 pepperoni 86

cheesecloth wraps

pork

ham

1

pearl barley

pear

mustard 168-169

84-89

32

shoulder, pork see also

110-111

muslin wraps

see

7, 13,

pork

chowder 38-39

mushrooms 122-123

nuts, cold

&

pastrami on rye

air-dried

45,46-47

salami

salmon 152-153 pastrami 32, 108-1 1

monkfish

molds 42

nettle

salsa

hot smoking 108-109

monkfish

smoking

for

101

48-49

drying time

roast

wood

salt

pasta with

105

temperatures

loin 105

pasta

mesquite 101

&

105

leg

32

smoked oysters & 134-135

temperatures

hot-smoked 98, 104

hot-smoked 106, 132-135 preparing 132—133

hot smoking 101,

&

46-47

belly 23, 32, 45,

oysters,

shucking 132

timing

88-89

salami

dry-cured 45, 46-47

dry curing 42, 45

104-106

own

your

7-8, 9

pork 9

zest in gravlax

smoked chicken 114-115

safety

2

pigs, rearing

pizza salad

57

0

mayonnaise nettle

oranges 52-53

hot-smoked duck 118-119 orange

wood smoke

122-123 cheeks 28-29

0

128-129 arugula salad

air

1

oranges

with appleslaw

smoked mackerel with

maple

oak smoking

1

1

1

1

0

with bacon and 48-49 pheasant, hot-smoked 1 2 phyllo pastry 116-117

lamb wrapped in airdried mutton with root broth 82-83

smoked salmon fishcakes 154-155 potted ham 28-29 puff pastry 122-123

pesto, pasta

pigeon

breasts, hot-

smoked 107, 120-123

rabbit,

mushroom

pie

1

20-

rhubarb 126-127 rice

grilled kipper kedgeree

with poached egg

158-159

preparing 120, 121

smoked pigeon &

hot-smoked

121

roast

& sage in ham 74-75

monkfish

air-dried

INDEX

:

173

8

1 1

rollmops

3 0-3

scrambled eggs

1

rye bread 110-111

150-151 gravlax 13, 54-57

cold smoking

hot smoking

1

4

timing

74—75 duck

salad with

smoked oysters & 134-135

oranges 52-53 salad

curing before

arugula salad relish

duck

26—

pork 46 salt

84-89 preparing 84-85

7, 13,

filling

7

86

chorizo 13, 86, 90-93 garlic saucisson

salt

flavored brine 3 3

salt

beef croquettes with

mayonnaise

nettle

34-35

German 84 pepperoni 86

corned beef hash

36-37 making 32, 33

84

longaniza 84

cod 58-59

beef 32

Irish

1

the casings 85

flavorings 84,

breasts 5 0

gravlax 56

127

drying time

drying

dry curing 42, 45

& 1

air

see also

salt

pastrami

dry curing 58-59

meat, preparing 84

fish pie

88-89

pork in 84

smoking 141 salmon cold-smoked pasta with smoked salmon 152-153

smoked salmon blini 148-149 smoked salmon fish cakes 154-155 smoked salmon with

174

:

INDEX

60-61

rehydrating 59

62-63 herbs 62-63

salted capers salted salt

pork

&

clam

chowder 38-39 sauerkraut 110-111 sausages 84 chorizo sausages;

mushroom pie 122-123 smoked salmon pasta with smoked salmon 152-153 smoked salmon blini 148-149 smoked salmon fish cakes 154-155 smoked salmon with scrambled eggs

smoked Scotch egg

1

62-

163

smoked

Stilton tart

1

64-

165

smokers 15

9, 15,

choosing 102

making your own 102-103 stove-top 107 spices air-dried

salami

sawdust

salsa

hot smoking

making 32

see also

smoked oysters & 134-135 smoked pigeon &

cold smoking 140-141

pork

salt

& rhubarb

126-127

150-151

cod

hanging 85, 87 pizza

14-1 15

smoked eel 106 smoked mackerel with

68

smoked mackerel with relish

1

poppers

166-167 smoked chicken mousse 116-117 smoked chicken terrine 1

brining

hot-smoked duck 118-119

cure,

salsa

salt

caramelized

arugula salad

smoked cheese 8-9, 12 smoked cheese & jalapefio

salsa

crispy dry-cured

salami

temperatures

salmonella 42

salads

rhubarb

&

105

0

1

oysters 132

sage

162-163 shrimp, hot smoked 105

hot-smoked 98, 104

safety

Scotch egg, smoked

140

ham

73

brine mixtures 21,23

8

1

1

unagi nigiri 130-131

dry curing 45

duck

50

breasts

walnuts 164-165

pork 47 salami 84

water smokers 100, 104

pastrami 108

wild

smoked duck and turkey

wine 90-91

cheese

cold smoking 14—15,

138

tart

164-165

hot smoking

1

0

stove-top smokers 107

sawdust

sugar

shavings /chippings

brining solutions 18,

dry curing 42, 45

yeasts

50

breasts

gravlax 56

pork 46 sweet brining

1

Tabasco dipping sauce for beef jerky

94

taramasalata 161

smoked

tart,

Stilton

1

64-

165

smoked chicken 14-115

terrine, 1

timings brining 2

1

cold smoking

1

4

dry curing 45 hot smoking 105

tomatoes

88-89 smoked oysters & salsa 134-135 salami pizza

trout

cold-smoked 141

hot-smoked 104 tuna

see

mojama

(tuna

loin)

turkey

dry-cured 50 hot-smoked 04, 112 1

9, 15,

140

14-15, 140-141

21

duck

63

wood

112 staphylococcus 42 Stilton

garlic, salted 62,

42

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS jlMli^

All

1

photographs

PICTURE CREDITS © Nick Pope with the exception of the following:

(used throughout). Strawbridge Family Archive 19 (top

and bottom 99 (bottom

Illustrations:

right),

left),

44 (bottom

139 (bottom

left),

left

left),

63 (bottom), 69 (bottom

and

right).

Fotolia/ Monica Butnaru

20 (top left

left

and

1

36.

James Strawbridge

106, 107, 140.

Publisher: Stephanie Jackson Editor: Clare Churly

Copy- editor: Annie Lee Creative Director: Jonathan Christie

Designer: Jaz Bahra Illustrators: Charlotte Strawbridge, James Strawbridge

Photographer: Nick Pope Stylist: Alison

Clarkson

Kitchen Dogsbody: Jim Tomson

Production Manager: Pete Hunt

176

:

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

right),

70

43 (top

(right),

Thinkstock/iStockphoto (used throughout).

Charlotte Strawbridge 16, 40, 66, 96,

Managing

and

right),

18, 57, 70, 103,

CURING &

SMOKING

Learning is

how

to cure and smoke your

great fun. You can save

you enjoy friends

Curing

best,

and

own food

money, make the foods

and have lots to share with

family.

& Smoking

explains

what

is

possible and

offers encouragement and practical instruction

on how to transform fresh meats, fish, seafood and even eggs and cheese into flavorful treats.

We show ideas

you all the key methods and give you on making your own creations with your

homemade products

as the star.

With simple

instruction and dozens of fantastic recipes, all th inspiration

wr

you need

is

here.

Brining

»r Dry curing

wr

Air drying

*r Hot smoking mr Cold smoking

DICK

AND JAMES

featured

Green

in

BBC's

series,

move from

ST RAWB RIDGE are

it's

Not Easy

Being

which documented their

city to farm. Dick

tive television personality

is

an ac-

and last year

he earned second place on the BBC's Celebrity Masterchef. They are the

authors of

It's

-77085-077-4 KRN-1 3 978-1 '•

ISBS- 1 0;k70B5-077-5$i9

Not Easy Being Green

and Practical Self-Sufficiency.

9 J7

817 70»85077

4'

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^