Haynes Chrysler Mid-size Front Wheel Drive Automotive Repair Manual [1337] 1563921960, 9781563921964

Citation preview

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'Chrysler Mid-size 1

1982 thru 1995

Front-wheel drive

|

Chrysler LeBaron Sedan (1982 thru 1989), LeBaron

j

Convertible, LeBaron GTS, E-Class,

'

Dodge

400, 600, Lancer

yne:

New Yorker

Coupe &

(4 cyl)

Plymouth Caravelle

Haynes Repair Manual Based on a complete teardown and rebuild

^V ^tt^.

ncludes essential information for today's more complex vehicles

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Chrysler

Mid -size Front wheel drive

Automotive Repair

Manual by Robert Maddox, Larry Warren

and John H Haynes Member

of the Guild of Motoring Writers

Models covered: All

front-wheel drive

Chrysler LeBaron Sedan models (1982 thru 1989), LeBaron coupe and convertible, LeBaron GTS, E-Class and four-cylinder New Yorker models

Dodge

400, 600 and Lancer

Plymouth Caravelle 2.2, 2.5

and 2.6

liter

and 3.0 liter V6 engines and turbocharged models)

four-cylinder engines

(includes carbureted, fuel-injected

1982 through 1995

#

(10C11

(1337)

AirrcMCnvE h

l>VJ?73

ASSOCIATION

Haynes Publishing Group Sparkford Nr Yeovil

Somerset BA22 7JJ England

Haynes North America, 861 Lawrence Drive Newbury Park California

91320 USA

ABCOE

25030)

Inc

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FGHU KLMN

About this manual Its

must pass on to you to cover its labor and overhead costs. An added benefit is the sense of satisfaction and accomplishment that you feel after doing the job your-

purpose

The purpose of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done, even if you choose to have it done by a dealer service department or a repair shop; it provides information and procedures for routine maintenance and servicing; and it offers diagnostic and repair procedures to follow when trouble

Section 3 and Step (or paragraph) 2 within that Section.

Procedures, once described are not normally repeated. When

Using the manual is

number. Cross references given without use word "Chapter" apply to Sections and/or paragraphs in the same Chapter. For example, "see Section 8" means in the same

Each Chapter is divided into numbered Secwhich are headed in bold type between horizontal lines. Each Section consists of

Chapter.

consecutively numbered paragraphs.

We

hope you use the manual to tackle the work yourself. For many simpler jobs, doing yourself may be quicker than arrang-

References to the left or right side of the assume you are sitting in the driver's

At the beginning of each numbered Sec-

vehicle

you will be referred to any illustrations which apply to the procedures in that Section. The reference numbers used in illustra-

seat, facing forward.

tion

it

an appointment to get the vehicle into a shop and making the trips to leave it and pick it up. More importantly, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the expense the shop ing

Even though we have prepared this manual with extreme care, neither the publisher nor the author can accept responsibility for any errors in, or omissions from, the infor-

tion captions pinpoint the pertinent Section

and the Step within that Section. That illustration 3.2

means

is,

mation given.

the illustration refers to

NOTE A Note make

provides information necessary to properly complete a procedure or information which

will

the procedure easier to understand.

CAUTION A Caution

provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the Caution is found. Not heeding a Caution can result in damage to the assembly

being worked on.

WARNING A Warning

provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the

procedure where the Warning

Acknowledgements We are grateful to the Chrysler and vehicle photos. Technical

©

Haynes North America,

is

found. Not heeding a Warning can result

in

personal

injury.

Corporation for their assistance with technical information, certain illustrations who contributed to this project include Mark Ryan and Mike Stubblefield.

writers

Inc. 1993, 1996,

1998

With permission from J.H. Haynes & Co. Ltd.

A book

in

the Haynes Automotive Repair Manual Series

Printed

in

the U.S.A.

reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

All rights

ISBN1 56392 196 Library of

Congress Catalog Card Number 96-76010

While every attempt is made to ensure that the information in this manual is correct, no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

98-320

it's

of the

divided into Chapters.

tions,

occurs.

the text,

necessary to refer to another Chapter, the reference will be given as Chapter and Section

self.

The manual

in

0-3

Contents Introductory pages About this manual Introduction to the Chrysler mid-size models Vehicle identification numbers

Buying parts Maintenance techniques, tools and working Jacking and towing Booster battery (jump) starting Automotive chemicals and lubricants Conversion factors Safety first! Troubleshooting

Chapter

facilities

0-2 0-4 0-5 0-6 0-6 0-12 0-12

0-13 0-14 0-15 0-16

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1-1

A

Chapter 2 Part

2.2L and 2.5L four-cylinder engines

2A

2B-1

2B

2C-1

2C

2D-1

2D

Chapter 2 Part C 3.0L V6 engine

Chapter 2 Part D General engine overhaul procedures

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and

air

conditioning systems

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

Chapter 5 Engine

electrical

systems

3-1

3

4-1

4

5-1

5

6-1

6

Chapter 6 Emissions control systems

Chapter 7 Part A Manual transaxle

7A-1

7A

7B-1

7B

Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transaxle

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles

Chapter 9

1

2A-1

Chapter 2 Part B 2.6L four-cylinder engine

)

8-1

8

9-1

9

Brakes

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

Chapter

11 11-1

Body

Chapter 12 Chassis

electrical

system

Wiring diagrams

Index

10-1

12-1

10 11

12

12-17

IND-1

IND

0-4

Haynes author, photographer and mechanic with Chrysler LeBaron

Introduction to the Chrysler mid-size models

four-cylinder engines, equipped with carbu-

The engine drives the front wheels through either a five-speed manual or a three- or four-speed automatic transaxle via independent driveaxles. The fully-independent front suspension

retors or electronic fuel injection are used.

consists of coil spring/strut units, control

Some

arms and a stabilizer bar. The rear suspension uses shock absorbers, coil springs, a

These models are available in two-door coupe, four-door sedan, station wagon and convertible

body

styles.

Transversely mounted V6 and

four-cylinder

bocharged.

engines

are

inline

tur-

solid axle with integral trailing

arms and a

track bar (Panhard rod).

The power-assisted rack-and-pinion mounted behind the unit is

steering engine.

Front brakes are discs; the rears are drum or optional disc-type. Power

either assist

is

standard.

0-5

Vehicle identification

The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is stamped into a metal plate fastened to the dashboard on the driver's side - it's visible through the windshield

Modifications

a

are

unpublicized process

in

continuing and manufactur-

vehicle

Since spare parts manuals and lists are compiled on a numerical basis, the individual ing.

vehicle identify

numbers are essential to the component required.

Vehicle Identification

correctly

Number

(VIN) The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN), which appears on the Vehicle Certificate of Title and Registration, is also embossed on a gray plate located on the upper left (driver's side) corner of the

dashboard, near the wind-

shield (see illustration).

when and where a its

vehicle

The VIN tells you was manufactured,

country of origin, make, type, passenger line, series, body style, engine

safety system,

and assembly

plant.

numbers

The Body Code

located on the the wheel driver's side of the housing or the upper radiator support (shown) - it provides information about the type of engine, transaxle, paint, etc. of the model to which it's attached Plate

is

firewall,

Body Code left

ing or the

which

Plate

The body code on the

plate,

which is located wheel hous-

(driver's side) firewall,

upper radiator support (see

tration), provides

more

specific information

Engine Identification Number

required also

when buying replacement into the block. On 2.2L

stamped

and 2.5L engines, is located just below the EIN on the block. On 2.6L and 3.0L engines, is located on the right-rear side of the engine it

block, adjacent to the exhaust manifold stud (firewall

side of the vehicle) (see illustration).

Transaxle Identification

four-cylinder engines, the Engine

transaxle bellhousing (see illustration).

On

2.6L and 3.0L engines, the it is on the radiator side of the of the block, between the core plug and the transaxle end of the block (see illustration).

Engine Serial Number

Location of the engine identification number on 2.6L and 3.0L engines

is is

Number (TIN)

Identification Number (EIN) is stamped into a machined boss on the engine block. On 2.2L and 2.5L engines it is stamped into the left end of the engine block, just about the

In

parts,

it

illus-

about the vehicle - type of engine, transaxle, paint, etc. - to which it's attached.

(EIN) On

Location of the engine identification number on 2.2L and 2.5L engines

addition the EIN, a serial number,

Location of the engine serial number on 2.6L and 3.0L engines

(TIN)

The Transaxle Identification Number is stamped on a boss located on top of

the transaxle housing (see illustration).

Transaxle Serial

Number

Besides the TIN, the transaxle also has a number which you'll need to reference when buying transaxle parts. On manual serial

transaxles, the serial

number

is

embossed on

a metal tag attached to the front side of the transaxle; on automatic transaxles, the serial number is located on a pad just above the oil

pan

at the rear of the transaxle.

The Transaxle Identification Number (TIN) is stamped into a flat spot on top of the transaxle housing

t

0-6

Buying parts Replacement parts are available from sources, which generally fall into one of

many

two categories - authorized dealer parts departments and independent retail auto parts stores. Our advice concerning these parts

is

as follows:

Retail auto parts stores: Good auto parts stores will stock frequently needed components which wear out relatively fast, such as clutch components, exhaust systems, brake parts, tune-up parts, etc. These stores often supply new or reconditioned

parts on an

which can save money. Discount auto parts stores are often very good places to buy materials and parts needed for general vehicle maintenance such as oil, grease, filters, spark plugs, belts, touch-up paint, bulbs, etc. They also usually sell tools and general accessories, have convenient hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home. Authorized dealer parts department: This is the best source for parts which are

exchange

a considerable

unique to the vehicle and not generally elsewhere (such major as engine parts, transmission parts, trim pieces,

basis,

amount

available

of

etc.).

Warranty information: If the vehicle is covered under warranty, be sure that any replacement parts purchased - regardless of the source - do not invalidate the warranty! To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, have engine and chassis numbers still

.

available and, if possible, take the old parts along for positive identification.

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Maintenance techniques

this task,

There are a number of techniques in maintenance and repair that will

involved

be referred to throughout this manual. Application of these techniques will enable the home mechanic to be more efficient, better organized and capable of performing the various tasks properly, which will ensure that the repair job is thorough and complete.

as well as other repair procedures,

such as the repair of threaded holes that have been stripped out. Flat washers and lockwashers, when removed from an assembly, should always

be replaced exactly as removed. Replace any damaged washers with new ones. Never use a lockwasher on any soft metal surface (such as aluminum), thin sheet metal or plastic.

Fasteners Fasteners are nuts, bolts, studs and screws used to hold two or more parts together. There are a few things to keep in mind when working with fasteners. Almost all of them use a locking device of some type, either a lockwasher, locknut, locking tab or thread adhesive. All threaded fasteners should be clean and straight, with undamaged threads and undamaged corners on the hex head where the wrench fits. Develop the habit of replacing all damaged nuts and bolts with

new

Grade

1

Grade 5

or 2

Grade 8

ones. Special locknuts with nylon or

fiber inserts

can only be used once.

If

they

Bolt strength marking (standard/SAE/USS;

bottom

-

metric)

are removed, they lose their locking ability

and must be replaced with new ones. Rusted nuts and bolts should be treated with a penetrating fluid to ease removal and prevent breakage. Some mechanics use turpentine in a spout-type oil can, which works

Grade Hex Nut Grade 5

quite well. After applying the rust penetrant, let

it

work

for a

few minutes before

loosen the nut or

may have

to

bolt.

i

t

^"Nw, T

T

Hex Nut Property Class 9

3 Dots

Identification

&

off or

special nut breaker, available

Hex Nut Grade 8

Jf ^»k

s^-Aj

a bolt or stud breaks off in an assembly, it can be drilled and removed with a special tool commonly available for this purpose. Most automotive machine shops can perform

6 Dots

Standard hex nut strength markings

B

Arabic 9

Badly rusted fasteners

at tool stores. If

Grade

trying to

be chiseled or sawed

removed with a

Identification

Hex Nut Property Class 10

®

© Class

Class

Class

10.9

9.8

8.8

Arabic 10

Metric hex nut strength markings

Metric stud strength markings |

00-1

HAYNES|

Maintenance techniques, tools and working Fastener sizes For a number

of reasons, automobile manufacturers are making wider and wider use of metric fasteners. Therefore, it is important to be able to tell the difference between standard (sometimes called U.S. or SAE) and metric hardware, since they cannot be interchanged. All bolts, whether standard or metric, are sized according to diameter, thread pitch and length. For example, a standard 1/2-13x1 bolt is 1/2 inch in diameter, has 13 threads per inch and is 1 inch long. An M12 - 1.75 x 25 metric bolt is 1 2 mm in diameter, has a thread (the distance between pitch of 1.75 threads) and is 25 mm long. The two bolts are nearly identical, and easily confused, but they

Metric thread sizes

Ft-ibs

Nm

M-6 M-8 M-10 M-12 M-14

6 to 9 14 to 21 28 to 40 50 to 71 80 to 140

9 to 12 19 to 28 38 to 54

5 to 8 12 to 18

7 to 10

1/8 1/4

to 96 109 to 154

1/2

U.S. thread sizes 1/4-20 5/16

-

6 to 9 12 to 18 14 to 20

18

5/16-24

diameter, thread pitch and length, metric and standard bolts can also be distinguished by examining the bolt heads. To begin with, the distance across the flats on a standard bolt head is measured in inches, while the same dimension on a metric bolt is sized in millime-

16 24 7/16 - 14

in

17 to 24 30 to 44 34 to 47

22 to 33 25 to 35

3/8

are not interchangeable.

addition to the differences

68

Pipe thread sizes

mm

In

0-7

facilities

3/8

-

3/8

-

22 27 40 40 55

7/16-20 1/2-13

9 to 12 1 7 to 24 19 to 27 30 to 43 37 to 51 55 to 74

32 38 to 55 to 60 to 80 to to

55 75

to 81 to

108

same is true for nuts). As a result, a standard wrench should not be used on a metric bolt and a metric wrench should not be used on a standard bolt. Also, most standard bolts have slashes radiating out from the center of the head to denote the grade or strength of the bolt, which is an indication of the amount of torque that can be applied to ters (the

it.

The greater the number

of slashes, the

greater the strength of the bolt. Grades

through 5 are commonly used on automobiles. Metric bolts have a property class (grade) number, rather than a slash, molded into their

heads

to indicate bolt strength. In

number, the stronger 8.8, 9.8 and 10.9 are commonly used on automobiles. Strength markings can also be used to distinguish standard hex nuts from metric hex nuts. Many standard nuts have dots stamped into one side, while metric nuts are marked with a number. The greater the number of dots, or the higher the number, the

this case, the higher the

the bolt. Property class

numbers

00-2

Grade marks

L

Length (in inches) Thread pitch (number of threads per inch) Nominal diameter (in inches)

T

greater the strength of the nut.

Metric studs are also marked on their

ends according to property class Larger studs are numbered (the

code

D

(bolt strength)

P

Property class (bolt strength)

L

T

Length (in millimeters) Thread pitch (distance between

D

Diameter

threads

in millimeters)

(grade).

same

as

metric bolts), while smaller studs carry a geo-

strength ratings, be sure to reinstall any bolts,

made

studs or nuts removed from your vehicle

specific torque values,

denote grade. It should be noted that many fasteners, especially Grades through 2, have no distinguishing marks on them. When such is the case, the only way to determine whether it is standard or metric is to measure the thread pitch or compare it to a known fastener of the

their original locations. Also,

same

procedures

metric

Metric bolt dimensions/grade marks

Standard (SAE and USS) bolt dimensions/grade marks

G

MAYNCS

to

size.

Standard fasteners are often referred to as SAE, as opposed to metric. However, it should be noted that SAE technically refers to a non-metric fine thread fastener only. Coarse thread non-metric fasteners are referred to as USS sizes. Since fasteners of the same size (both standard and metric) may have different

a fastener with a

new one has

new

one,

in

when replacing make sure that the

a strength rating equal to or

greater than the original.

Tightening sequences and Most threaded fasteners should be tightened to a specific torque value (torque is the twisting force applied to a threaded component such as a nut or

bolt).

weaken

Overtightening

and cause it to break, while undertightening can cause it to eventually come loose. Bolts, screws and studs, depending on the material they are the fastener can

it

of

and

their

thread diameters, have

many

of

which are

noted in the Specifications at the beginning of each Chapter. Be sure to follow the torque recommendations closely. For fasteners not assigned a specific torque, a general torque value chart is presented here as a guide. These torque values are for dry (unlubncated) fasteners threaded into steel or cast iron (not aluminum). As was previously mentioned, the size and grade of a fastener determine the amount of torque that can safely be applied to it. The figures listed here are approximate for Grade 2 and Grade 3 fasteners. Higher grades can tolerate higher torque values. Fasteners laid out in a partem, such as cylinder head bolts, oil pan bolts, differential cover bolts, etc., must be loosened or tight-

0-8

Maintenance techniques, tools and working

Micrometer set in sequence to avoid warping the component. This sequence will normally be shown in the appropriate Chapter. If a specific pattern is not given, the following procedures can be used to prevent warping. Initially, the bolts or nuts should be assembled finger-tight only. Next, they should be tightened one full turn each, in a criss-cross or diagonal pattern. After each

ened

one has been tightened one full turn, return to the first one and tighten them all one-half turn, following the

tighten each of

same

pattern.

them one-quarter

Finally,

turn at a

each fastener has been tightened to To loosen and remove the fasteners, the procedure would be reversed.

time

until

the proper torque.

Component disassembly

Dial indicator set

two halves with numbered pieces masking tape so they can be easily recon-

identify the

Hose removal

of

is equipped with air do not disconnect any of the A/C hoses without first having the system depressurized by a dealer service department

nected.

Gasket sealing surfaces Throughout any vehicle, gaskets are used to seal the mating surfaces between two parts and keep lubricants, fluids, vacuum or pressure contained

in

done with care and purpose to help ensure go back together properly. Always keep track of the sequence in which parts are removed. Make note of special

are coated

with a liquid or paste-type gasket sealing

compound

before assembly. Age, heat and

pressure can sometimes cause the two parts to stick together so tightly that they are very to separate. Often, the

be loosened by

striking

it

assembly can

with a soft-face

hammer near the mating surfaces. A regular hammer can be used a block of wood is placed between the hammer and the part. Do not hammer on cast parts or parts that

grooved thrust washer on a shaft. It is a good idea to lay the disassembled parts out on a clean surface in the order that they were removed. It may also be helpful to make sketches or take instant photos of compo-

easily damaged. With any stubborn part, always recheck to make sure that every fastener has been removed. Avoid using a screwdriver or bar to pry apart an assembly, as they can easily mar the gasket sealing surfaces of the parts, which must remain smooth. If prying is absolutely necessary, use an old broom handle, but keep in mind that extra clean up will be nec-

nents before removal.

essary

that the parts

characteristics or installed

marks on parts

that

can be

more than one way, such as a

When removing

comSome-

fasteners from a

ponent, keep track of their locations.

times threading a bolt back

in

a part, or

washers and nut back on a stud, can prevent mix-ups later. If nuts and bolts cannot be returned to their original locations, they should be kept in a compartmented box or a series of small boxes. A cupcake or muffin tin is ideal for this purpose, since each cavity can hold the bolts and nuts from a particular area (i.e. oil pan bolts, valve cover bolts, engine mount bolts, etc.). A pan of this type is especially helpful when working on assemblies with very small parts, such as the putting the

carburetor, alternator, valve train or interior

dash and trim pieces. The cavities can be marked with paint or tape to identify the contents.

Whenever

wiring looms, harnesses or

connectors are separated,

it

is

a good idea to

If

the vehicle

be

could

particularly

if

the

wood

splinters.

After the parts are separated, the old

gasket must be carefully scraped off and the gasket surfaces cleaned. Stubborn gasket material can be soaked with rust penetrant or treated with a special chemical to soften it so it can be easily scraped off. A scraper can be fashioned from a piece of copper tubing by flattening

and sharpening one end. Copper

recommended because

it

is

or a service station.

Hose removal precautions closely paralgasket removal precautions. Avoid scratching or gouging the surface that the hose mates against or the connection may lel

an assembly.

Many times these gaskets

difficult

Warning:

tips

conditioning,

if

Component disassembly should be

facilities

is

usually softer

than the surfaces to be scraped, which reduces the chance of gouging the part. Some gaskets can be removed with a wire brush, but regardless of the method used, the mating surfaces must be left clean and smooth. If for some reason the gasket surface is gouged, then a gasket sealer thick enough to fill scratches will have to be used during reassembly of the components. For most applications, a non-drying (or semi-drying) gasket sealer should be used.

leak. This is especially true for radiator hoses.

Because of various chemical reactions, the rubber in hoses can bond itself to the metal spigot that the hose fits over. To remove a hose, first loosen the hose clamps that secure it to the spigot. Then, with slip-joint pliers, grab the hose at the clamp and rotate it around the spigot. Work it back and forth until it is completely free, then pull it off. Silicone or other lubricants will ease removal if they can be applied between the hose and the outside of the spigot. Apply the same lubricant to the inside of the hose and the outside of the spigot to simplify installation.

As a

last resort

replaced with a

(and

the hose

if

new one anyway),

is

to

be

the rubber

can be slit with a knife and the hose peeled from the spigot. If this must be done, be careful that the metal connection

is

not

dam-

aged. If a hose clamp is broken or damaged, do not reuse it. Wire-type clamps usually weaken with age, so it is a good idea to replace them with screw-type clamps when-

ever a hose

is

removed.

7bo/s A selection

of

good

tools

a basic

is

who plans to mainher own vehicle. For the

requirement for anyone tain

and

repair his or

owner who has few tools, the initial investment might seem high, but when compared to the spiraling costs of professional auto

maintenance and

repair,

it

is

a wise one.

To help the owner decide which tools needed are to perform the tasks detailed in this

manual, the following tool

offered:

lists

Maintenance and minor

are

repair,

Repair/overhaul and Special.

The newcomer

to

practical

mechanics

Maintenance techniques, tools and working

Dial caliper

Compression gauge with spark plug

Hand-operated vacuum

pump

0-9

facilities

Timing

light

Damper/steering wheel puller

General purpose puller

Valve spring compressor

Valve spring compressor

Piston ring groove cleaning tool

Ring removal/installation tool

hole adapter

Hydraulic

lifter

removal tool

Ridge reamer

0-10

Maintenance techniques, tools and working

Ring compressor

Cylinder hone

Brake cylinder hone

Clutch plate alignment tool

should start

off

with the maintenance

and

Phillips

which is adequate for the simpler jobs performed on a vehicle. Then, as confidence and experience grow, the owner can tackle more difficult tasks, buying additional tools as they are needed. Eventually the basic kit will be expanded into the repair and overhaul tool set. Over a period minor repair

tool

screwdriver (No.

Combination

kit,

Oil

should be considered the minimum required for performance of routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair work. We recommend the purchase of combination wrenches (box-end and openend combined in one wrench). While more expensive than open end wrenches, they offer the advantages of both types of wrench. in

this

list

Combination wrench set (1/4-inch to 1 inch or 6 to 19 mm) Adjustable wrench, 8 inch Spark plug wrench with rubber insert Spark plug gap adjusting tool

mm

2x6 inch)

die set

has the capacity of accepting a very wide range of large sockets. Ideally, however, the mechanic should have a 3/8-inch drive set and a 1/2-inch drive set. it

6 inch of blades

Socket set(s) Reversible ratchet

Extension

Wire brush

Universal joint

Oil filter

tools

Tap and

Fine emery cloth Battery post

The

Brake hold-down spring tool

can

assemble a tool set complete enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the special category when it is felt that the expense is justified by the frequency of use.

tool kit

-

Hacksaw and assortment Tire pressure gauge Grease gun

of time, the experienced do-it-yourselfer will

Maintenance and minor repair

pliers

facilities

and cable cleaning

wrench Funnel (medium

tool

-10

inch

Torque wrench (same size drive as sockets)

size)

Ball

peen hammer - 8 ounce

Safety goggles

Soft-face

Jackstands

Standard screwdriver (1/4-inch x 6 inch) Standard screwdriver (stubby -

Drain

Note:

If

(2)

pan

basic tune-ups are going to be part of

routine maintenance,

be necessary

hammer (plastic/rubber)

5/16-inch)

3x8 inch)

to

Phillips

screwdriver (No.

purchase a good quality stroboscopic timing light and combination tachometer/dwell meter. Although they are included in the list of special tools, it is mentioned here because they are absolutely necessary for tuning most

Phillips

screwdriver (stubby

vehicles properly.

Cold chisel

it

will

Pliers

-

-

No. 2)

vise grip

-lineman's needle nose Pliers - snap-ring (internal and external) Pliers Pliers

-

-

1/2-inch

Scribe

Repair and overhaul tool set

Scraper (made from flattened copper

anyone who plans to perform major repairs and are in addition to those in the maintenance and minor repair tool kit. Included is a compre-

Centerpunch Pin punches (1/16,

hensive set of sockets which, though expen-

Allen

These tools are essential

sive, are invaluable

especially

because of

when

Feeler gauge set

ity,

Brake bleeder wrench Standard screwdriver (5/16-inch x 6 inch)

drives are available.

for

their versatil-

various extensions and

We recommend

the 1/2-

inch drive over the 3/8-inch drive. Although

the larger drive

is

bulky and

more expensive,

tubing)

1/8,

Steel rule/straightedge

4

wrench set

mm to

A selection

10 of

3/16-inch)

-12 inch

(1/8 to 3/8-inch or

mm)

files

Wire brush (large) Jackstands (second set) Jack (scissor or hydraulic type)

Maintenance techniques, tools and working Note: Another tool which electric drill with a

and a

is often useful is an chuck capacity of 3/8-mch

set of good quality

Special tools The

tools

include those which

in this list

are not used regularly, are expensive to buy,

need

be used in accordance with their manufacturer's instructions. Unless these tools will be used frequently, it is not very economical to purchase many of them. A consideration would be to split the cost and use between yourself and a friend or friends. In addition, most of these tools can be obtained from a tool rental shop on a temor which

to

porary basis.

This

primarily contains only those

list

and instruments widely available to the public, and not those special tools produced

tools

by the vehicle manufacturer for distribution to dealer service departments. Occasionally, references to the manufacturer's special tools are included in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the is offered. Howsometimes there is no alternative to use. Where this is the case, and the tool

job without the special tool ever, their

cannot be purchased or borrowed, the work should be turned over to the dealer service department or an automotive repair shop. Valve spring compressor

Piston ring groove cleaning tool Piston ring compressor Piston ring installation tool

Cylinder ridge reamer

hone

Cylinder bore gauge

Care and maintenance of tools Good tools are expensive, so it makes sense to treat them with respect. Keep them clean and in usable condition and store them properly when not in use. Always wipe off any dirt, grease or metal chips before putting them away. Never leave tools lying around in the work area. Upon completion of a job, always check closely under the hood for tools that may have been left there so they won't get lost during a test drive.

Some

such as screwdrivers, pliwrenches and sockets, can be hung on a panel mounted on the garage or workshop wall, while others should be kept in a tool box or tray. Measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc. must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged by weather or tools,

ers,

used frequently. When a tool is damaged or worn out, replace it. Subsequent jobs will be safer and more enjoyable if you do. tools

Micrometers and/or dial calipers Hydraulic lifter removal tool Balljoint

over a longer period of time and gives the mechanic the freedom to choose only those tools that will actually be used. Tool stores will often be the only source of some of the special tools that are needed, but regardless of where tools are bought, try to avoid cheap ones, especially when buying screwdrivers and sockets, because they won't last very long. The expense involved in replacing cheap tools will eventually be greater than the initial cost of quality tools.

impact from other tools. When tools are used with care and stored properly, they will last a very long time. Even with the best of care, though,

Cylinder compression gauge Cylinder surfacing

needed, add-on sets, individual tools and a larger tool box can be purchased to expand the tool selection. Building a tool set gradually allows the cost of the tools to be spread

drill bits.

separator

Universal-type puller

will

wear out

How

Dial indicator set

Stroboscopic timing

light (inductive

pick-up)

Tachometer/dwell meter Universal electrical multimeter Cable hoist Brake spring removal and installation tools

Floor jack

Buying tools For the do-it-yourselfer

who

ing to get involved in vehicle

and

repair, there are a

available

is

maintenance

number

when purchasing

just start-

tools.

of options If

mainte-

nance and minor repair is the extent of the work to be done, the purchase of individual tools is satisfactory. If, on the other hand, extensive work is planned, would be a good idea to purchase a modest tool set from one it

of the large retail chain stores.

A

set can usu-

be bought at a substantial savings over the individual tool prices, and they often ally

come

with a tool box.

As

additional tools are

to repair

damaged

threads Sometimes, the

Hand operated vacuum/pressure pump

internal

become

or bolt hole can

threads of a nut

stripped, usually

from overtightening. Stripping threads is an all-too-common occurrence, especially when working with aluminum parts, because aluminum is so soft that it easily strips out. Usually, external or internal threads are only partially stripped. After they've been cleaned up with a tap or die, they'll still work. Sometimes, however, threads are badly dam-

aged.

When

this

happens, you've got three

choices: 1)

Dhll

and

tap the hole to the next suitable

oversize bolt,

2)

Drill

and

install

a larger diameter

screw or stud.

and

nut.

3)

tap

to accept a and tap the plug screw size. You can also

the

threaded plug, then to the original

hole

drill

buy a plug already threaded to the original size. Then you simply drill a hole to the specified size, then run the threaded plug into the hole with a bolt and jam

Once

the plug

is

fully

seated,

remove the jam nut and bolt. The third method uses a patented thread repair

kit like

These easy-to-use repair

damaged

Heli-Coil or Slimsert.

are designed to threads in straightkits

through holes and blind holes. Both are can handle a vahety of sizes and thread patterns. Dhll the hole, then tap it with the special included tap. Install the Heli-Coil and the hole is back to its onginal diameter and thread pitch. available as kits which

Regardless of which method you use, be sure to proceed calmly and carefully. A little impatience or carelessness during one of these relatively simple procedures can ruin your whole day's work and cost you a bundle if you wreck an expensive part.

Working

facilities

Not to be overlooked when discussing tools is the workshop. If anything more than routine maintenance

is to be carried out, work area is essential. It is understood, and appreciated, that many home mechanics do not have a good workshop or garage available, and end up removing an engine or doing major repairs outside. It is recommended, however, that the overhaul or repair be completed under

some

sort of suitable

the cover of a roof.

A

clean,

flat

workbench or

fortable working height

table of

com-

an absolute necessity. The workbench should be equipped with a vise that has a jaw opening of at least four is

inches.

As mentioned

if

Impact screwdriver

0-11

facilities

dry storage space

previously, is

some

clean,

also required for tools,

as well as the lubricants, fluids, cleaning solvents, etc. which soon become necessary.

Sometimes waste oil and fluids, drained from the engine or cooling system during normal maintenance or repairs, present a disposal problem. To avoid pouring them on the ground or into a sewage system, pour the used

fluids into large containers, seal

with caps and take

them

them

to an authorized

disposal site or recycling center. Plastic jugs,

such as old antifreeze containers, are for this

ideal

purpose.

Always keep a supply

of old

newspa-

pers and clean rags available. Old towels are

up spills. Many mechanics use rolls of paper towels for most work because they are readily available and disposable. To help keep the area under the vehicle clean, a large cardboard box can be cut open and flattened to protect the garage or shop floor. Whenever working over a painted surface, such as when leaning over a fender to service something under the hood, always cover it with an old blanket or bedspread to protect the finish. Vinyl covered pads, made excellent

for

mopping

especially for this purpose, are available at

auto parts stores.

0-12

Jacking and towing being changed, loosen the lug nuts oneand leave them in place until the wheel is raised off the ground. Make sure no

Jacking The jack supplied with the vehicle should be used only for raising the vehicle when changing a tire or placing jackstands under the frame. Warning: Never work under the vehicle or start the engine when this jack is being used as the only means of support. The vehicle should be on level ground with the wheels blocked and the transaxle in Park (automatic) or Neutral (manual). If a tire

remember

is

rary spare

half turn

only for temporary use

one

is in

the vehicle as

it's

being raised

tire,

that

until

it

is

intended

the regular

tire

can be repaired. Do not exceed the maximum speed that the tire is rated for.

off

the ground.

Towing

Place the jack under the side of the vehicle at the jacking point nearest the wheel to be changed. Caution: Never place the jack under the rear trailing arms. If you're using a floorjack, place it beneath the crossmember at the front or rear (see illustrations). Operate the jack with a slow, smooth motion until the wheel is raised off the ground. If you're using jackstands, position them beneath the support points along the front or rear side sills.

Remove

install

the lug nuts,

pull off

The

must be towed with the front the ground to prevent damage to the transaxle. If the vehicle must be towed backward, place the front wheels on a dolly. Caution: Don't use the hook loops under the vehicle for towing (they're intended only for use as tie-downs). A wheel lift is recommended. A flatbed truck can also be used. In this case, pull the vehicle onto the truck towards the front, using J-hooks at the front suspension control arms with the points turned down. While towing, the parking brake must be released and the transaxle must be in Neutral. The steering must be unlocked (ignition switch in the OFF position). Don't exceed 50 mph (35 mph on rough roads). Safety is a major consideration while towing and all applicable state and local laws must be obeyed. A safety chain system must be used at all times. Remember that power steering and power brakes will not work with (drive)

the wheel,

the spare and thread the lug nuts back

on with the beveled sides facing

in.

Tighten

them snugly, but wait until the vehicle is lowered to tighten them completely. Lower the vehicle, remove the jack and (if loosened or removed) a criss-cross pattern. If possible, tighten them with a torque wrench (see Chapter 1 for the torque figures). If you don't have access to a torque wrench, have the nuts checked

tighten the lug nuts in

There's a jack locator pin like this (arrow) near each wheel - when raising the vehicle with the standard scissor-type jack, make sure the jack head is securely engaged with the pin nearest the wheel you're raising

by a service station or repair shop as soon as possible. Retighten the lug nuts after 500 miles. If

the vehicle

is

equipped with a tempo-

vehicle

wheels

the engine

off

off.

Booster battery (jump) starting Observe these precautions when using a booster battery

to start

a vehicle: a)

c)

is in

Turn off the

lights,

the ignition

heater and other electrical loads.

Your eyes should be shielded. Safety goggles are a good idea. the booster battery is the same voltage as the dead

Make sure

e)

one in the vehicle. The two vehicles MUST NOT

g)

make sure

the Off position.

d)

f)

Make

sure the transaxle

is in

TOUCH each

other!

Neutral (manual) or Park (automatic),

not a maintenance-free type, remove the vent caps and lay a cloth over the vent holes.

If

Battery

'

Booster battery

2

1

Before connecting the booster battery, switch

b)

Dead

the booster battery

^

o%!

o 8

o e

"Te

8%y o _ %*

o

4 ,d

is

Connect the red jumper cable to the positive

(+)

terminals of each

battery (see illustration).

Connect one end

of the black

jumper cable to the negative

(-)

termi-

The other end of this cable should be connected to a good ground on the vehicle to be started, such as a bolt or bracket on the body. nal of the booster battery.

Start the engine using the booster battery, then, with the engine run-

ning at idle speed, disconnect the jumper cables

connection.

in

the reverse order of

I00-3HAYNESI

Make the booster battery cable connections in the numerical order shown (note that the negative cable of the booster battery is NOT attached to the negative terminal of the dead battery)

0-13

Automotive chemicals and lubricants A number

of

automotive chemicals and

in

disc brake equipped vehicles.

lubricants are available for use during vehicle

contains

maintenance and

is

repair.

They include a wide

variety of products ranging from cleaning sol-

vents and degreasers to lubricants and protective sprays for rubber, plastic

and

vinyl.

Cleaners Carburetor cleaner and choke cleaner a strong solvent for gum, varnish and carbon. Most carburetor cleaners leave a drytype lubricant film which will not harden or up.

It

usually

disulfide (moly),

which

a dry-type lubricant.

White grease

Because

of this film

it

is

not recom-

mended for use on electrical components. Brake system cleaner is used

to

remove grease and brake fluid from the brake system, where clean surfaces are absolutely necessary. It leaves no residue and often eliminates brake squeal caused by contami-

cants,

working loose and cure only after

+190-degrees F), and will not wash off or dilute in the presence of water. Assembly lube is a special extreme pressure lubricant, usually containing moly, used to lubricate high-load parts (such as main and rod bearings and cam lobes) for initial start-up of a new engine. The assembly lube lubricates the parts without being squeezed out or washed away until the engine oiling system begins to function. Silicone lubricants are used to protect

contacts, restoring

lubricate metal parts while remaining

current flow.

It

can also

be used to clean spark plugs, carburetor jets, voltage regulators and other parts where an oil-free surface is desired.

Demoisturants remove water and moisture from electrical components such as alternators, voltage regulators, electrical connectors and fuse blocks. They are non-conductive, non-corrosive and non-flammable. Degreasers are heavy-duty solvents used to remove grease from the outside of the engine and from chassis components. They can be sprayed or brushed on and, depending on the type, are rinsed off either with water

Lubricants Motor use

in

rubber, plastic, vinyl

the lubricant formulated for

oil is

engines.

It

normally contains a wide

variety of additives to prevent corrosion

and

reduce foaming and wear. Motor oil comes in various weights (viscosity ratings) from 5 to

uncon-

taminated by

dirt, water, oil or acids. It is conductive and will not foul eleccontacts in locks such as the ignition

electrically trical

switch.

Moly penetrants loosen and lubricate and corroded fasteners and

frozen, rusted

prevent future rusting or freezing.

Heat-sink grease

is

a special electri-

non-conductive grease that is used for mounting electronic ignition modules where it

is

essential that heat

is

transferred

away from

the module.

one

most widely used gasket compounds. Made from silicone, RTV is air curing, it seals, bonds, is

of the

waterproofs, fills surface irregularities, remains flexible, doesn't shrink, is relatively easy to remove, and is used as a supplementary sealer with almost

low and

all

medium

temperature gaskets. Anaerobic sealant is much like RTV in that it can be used either to seal gaskets or to form gaskets by itself. It remains flexible, is

high loads are encountered. Multi-viscosity oils are designed to have characteristics of

The difference between an anaerobic sealant and an RTV-type sealant is in the curing. RTV cures when exposed to air, while an anaerobic sealant cures only in the absence of air. This means that an anaerobic sealant

Gear oil is designed to be used in differentials, manual transmissions and other areas where high-temperature lubrication is required.

Chassis and wheel bearing grease is a heavy grease used where increased loads and friction are encountered, such as for wheel bearings, balljoints, tie-rod ends and

solvent resistant and

fills

surface imperfec-

tions.

cures only after the assembly of parts, seal-

them together. Thread and pipe sealant sealing hydraulic and pneumatic ing

is

used

fittings

for

and

vacuum lines. It is usually made from a Teflon compound, and comes in a spray, a paint-on liquid

and as a wrap-around tape.

High-temperature

wheel

bearing

designed to withstand the extreme temperatures encountered by wheel bearings is

the absence of

ing

compound

Medium

used

for small nuts, bolts

that

and studs which

bolts

installation,

strength lock-

may be removed later. Highlocking compound is for large nuts,

and screws strength

is

air.

aren't

removed on a

regular basis. Oil additives range from viscosity index

improvers to chemical treatments that claim to reduce internal engine friction. It should be noted that most oil manufacturers caution against using additives with their oils.

Gas additives perform depending on

tions,

their

several funcchemical makeup.

They usually contain solvents that help dissolve gum and varnish that build up on carburetor, fuel injection and intake parts. They also serve to break down carbon deposits that form on the inside surfaces of the combustion chambers. Some additives contain upper cylinder lubricants for valves and piston rings, and others contain chemicals to remove condensation from the gas tank.

compound

galling, cold welding, rust

and pressure encountered in brake systems. Care must be taken so this fluid does not

come

contact with painted surfaces or An opened container should always be resealed to prevent contamination by water or dirt. in

plastics.

Weatherstrip adhesive is used to bond weatherstnpping around doors, windows and trunk

lids.

It

is

sometimes used

to attach trim

pieces.

Undercoating

is a petroleum-based, substance that is designed to protect metal surfaces on the underside of the vehicle from corrosion. It also acts as a sounddeadening agent by insulating the bottom of

tar-like

the vehicle.

Waxes and polishes protect painted

are used to help and plated surfaces from the

may wax and

weather. Different types of paint

require

the use of different types of

polish.

Some

polishes

a chemical or abrasive cleaner to help remove the top layer of oxidized (dull) paint on older vehicles. In recent years

utilize

many non-wax

polishes that contain a

prevents seizing,

and corrosion

polishes.

Chemicals Anti-seize

Miscellaneous

wide variety of chemicals such as polymers and silicones have been introduced. These non-wax polishes are usually easier to apply and last longer than conventional waxes and

universal joints.

grease

in

Anaerobic locking compounds are to keep fasteners from vibrating or

Brake fluid is specially formulated hydraulic fluid that can withstand the heat

80. The recommended weight of the oil depends on the season, temperature and the demands on the engine. Light oil is used in cold climates and under light load conditions. Heavy oil is used in hot climates and where

both light and heavy oils and are available in a number of weights from 5W-20 to 20W-50.

used

bolts.

cally

Sealants RTV sealant

or solvent.

exhaust system and

for

low and high temperatures (usually from -100

Electrical cleaner removes oxidation, corrosion and carbon deposits from electrical full

used

is

exhaust manifold

and nylon parts. Graphite lubricants are used where oils cannot be used due to contamination problems, such as in locks. The dry graphite will

nants.

fasteners. High-temperature ant-seize, usumade with copper and graphite lubri-

ally

a heavy grease for metal-to-metal applications where water is a problem. White grease stays soft under both is

to

is

gum

molybdenum

in

0-14

Conversion factors Length (distance) X X X

Inches (in) Feet (ft) Miles

Volume

(mm)

Millimetres

Metres (m) Kilometres (km)

X 16.387 = Cubic centimetres (cc; cm 3 X 0.568 = Litres (I) X 1.137 = Litres (I) X 1.201 = US quarts (US qt) X 0.946 = Litres (I) X 4.546 = Litres (I) X 1.201 = US gallons (US gal) X 3.785 = Litres (I)

3

)

gallons (US gal)

Mass

= = =

= = =

X X X

0.0394

X X X X X X X X

0.061 1.76 0.88 0.833 1.057 0.22

0.833 0.264

= Cubic inches (cu in; in 3 = Imperial pints (Imp pt) = Imperial quarts (Imp qt) = Imperial quarts (Imp qt) = US quarts (US qt) = Imperial gallons (Imp gal = Imperial gallons (Imp gal = US gallons (US gal)

X X

0.035 2.205

= Ounces = Pounds

X X X

0.225

X

14.223

3.281 0.621

Inches (in) Feet (ft) Miles

(capacity)

Cubic inches (cu in; in Imperial pints (Imp pt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) US quarts (US qt) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) Imperial gallons (Imp gal)

US

25.4 0.305 1.609

)

)

)

>

(weight)

Ounces Pounds

(oz) (lb)

X X

28.35 0.454

= Grams (g) = Kilograms

X X X

0.278 4.448

— Newtons (N) = Newtons (N) = Kilograms-force

X

0.070

(kg)

(oz) (lb)

Force Ounces-force Pounds-force

Newtons

(ozf; oz) *

(Ibf; lb)

(N)

0.1

(kgf; kg)

3.6 9.81

= Ounces-force = Pounds-force = Newtons (N)

(ozf; oz) (Ibf; lb)

Pressure Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in

2 ;

)

2 ;

2 ;

lb/in

2 ;

0.068

=

0.069

—

6.895

=

X

14.696

=

X

Bars

14.5

=

0.145

=

X

X

Kilopascals (kPa)

2

X

Kilopascals (kPa)

0.01

=

Kilograms-force per square 2 2 kg/cm centimetre (kgf/cm

X

98.1

=

X

0.868

=

)

2 ;

lb/in

2 )

2 ;

lb/in

2 )

Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in

)

lb/in

Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in

)

;

Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in

X

2

2

2

lb/in

Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in

)

Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in

X

=

)

2

lb/in

Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in

Kilograms-force per square 2 2 centimetre (kgf/cm kg/cm Atmospheres (atm) ;

Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in

=

2

lb/in

2

2 ;

lb/in

)

Kilopascals (kPa)

)

;

Torque (moment of force) X

Pounds-force inches

1.152

=

Kilograms-force centimetre cm; kg cm)

(kgf

(Ibf in; lb in)

X

Pounds-force inches

0.113

= Newton

Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; lb in)

X

metres (Nm)

8.85

=

Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; lb in)

(Ibf in; lb in)

X 0.083 = Pounds-force

Pounds-force inches

feet (Ibf

X

ft; lb ft)

=

12

Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; lb in)

(Ibf in; lb in)

Pounds-force feet

(Ibf ft; lb ft)

X

0.138

=

Kilograms-force metres m; kg m)

X

7.233

=

X X

0.738 9.804

= Pounds-force feet (Ibf = Newton metres (Nm)

X X

0.2961

0.0394

= Inches mercury = Inches mercury

X

0.0013

=

x

0.621

=

X X

2.825 2.352

Pounds-force feet

(Ibf ft; lb ft)

(kgf

Pounds-force feet (Ibf Newton metres (Nm)

ft;

lb ft)

X X

1.356 0.102

= Newton metres = Kilograms-force (kgf

(Nm) metres

ft;

lb ft)

Miles per hour (miles/hr;

mph

m; kg m)

Vacuum Inches mercury Inches mercury

(in.

(in.

Hg) Hg)

X X

3.377 25.4

= Kilopascals (kPa) = Millimeters mercury

X

745.7

= Watts

X

1.609

=

(mm

Hg)

Power Horsepower

(hp)

(W)

Horsepower

(hp)

Velocity (speed) Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

Kilometres per hour (km/hr; kpr

)

Fuel consumption* Miles per gallon, Imperial (mpg) Miles per gallon, US (mpg)

X 0.354 X 0.425

Kilometres per Kilometres per

litre

(km/I)

litre

(km/I)

Miles per gallon, Imperial (mpg) Miles per gallon, US (mpg)

Temperature Degrees Fahrenheit *lt is

=

(°C x 1.8) + 32

Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; °C)

common practice to convert from miles per gallon (mpg) to litres/ 100 mpg (Imperial) x 1/100 km = 282 and mpg (US) x 1/100 km = 235

where

kilometres

(1/1

00km),

=

(°F

-

32) x 0.56

0-15

Safety

how

Regardless of

may be about

first! enthusiastic you

hand, take the time to ensure that your safety is not jeopardized. A moment's lack of

an accident, as can failure to observe certain simple safety precautions. The possibility of an accident will always exist, and the following points should not be considered a comprehensive list of all dangers. Rather, they are intended to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safety conscious approach to all work you carry out on your vehicle. attention can result

Essential DON'T

in

DOs and DON'Ts

attempt to loosen extremely tight fasteners (i.e. wheel lug nuts) while the vehicle is

on a jack

DON'T

-

it

may

fall.

engine without first making sure that the transmission is in Neutral (or Park where applicable) and the parking brake start the

DON'T remove cooling system

the radiator cap from a hot -

let

it

cool or cover

and release the pressure

it

with a

gradually.

not burn you.

DON'T touch any haust system

until

part of the engine or exit

has cooled

sufficiently to

avoid burns.

DON'T

siphon toxic liquids such as gasoline, and brake fluid by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin. antifreeze

DON'T

inhale brake lining dust

-

is

it

poten-

hazardous (see Asbestos below).

DON'T on the on it.

allow spilled

floor

-

DON'T use tools which

wipe loose

may

it

oil

or grease to remain

up before someone

fitting

wrenches

slips

or other

and cause injury. DON'T push on wrenches when loosening or tightening nuts or bolts. Always try to pull the wrench toward you. If the situation calls for pushing the wrench away, push with an open hand to avoid scraped knuckles if the wrench should

DON'T -

DON'T

slip

slip.

attempt to get

someone

lift

a heavy

component

DON'T

rush or take unsafe shortcuts to finish

a logical sequence and is

correctly

assem-

DO keep chemicals and fluids tightly capped and out of the reach of children and pets.

DO remember

that your vehicle's safety

on any

and others.

If

in

Never use materials from unmarked

containers.

Never run the engine in an enclosed space, such as a garage. Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide, which is extremely poisonous. If you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air, or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the work area. If you are fortunate enough to have the use of an inspection pit, never drain or pour gasoline and never run the engine while the vehicle is over the pit. The fumes, being heavier than

air, will

concentrate

the

in

pit

with possibly lethal results.

doubt

point, get professional advice.

The battery

Asbestos

Never create a spark or allow a bare bulb near a battery. They normally give a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which

light

Certain friction, insulating, sealing, and

bands, clutch

-

such as brake

linings,

brake

torque converters, gaskets, etc. - may contain asbestos. Extreme care must be taken to avoid inhalation of dust from such products, since it is hazardous to health. tain

If

in

off is

highly explosive.

linings,

doubt,

assume

that they

do con-

asbestos.

Fire Remember

Always disconnect the battery ground (-) at the battery before working on the

cable

systems.

fuel or electrical If

possible, loosen the

filler

caps or

cover when charging the battery from an external source (this does not apply to sealed

maintenance-free batteries). Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery at

all

times that gasoline

is

smoke or have any open flame around when working on a

kind of

does not end there. A spark caused by an electrical short circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, or even by static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite gasoline vapors, which in a confined space are highly explosive. Do not, under any circumstances, use gasoline for cleaning parts. Use an vehicle. But the risk

approved safety solvent. Always disconnect the battery ground (-) cable at the battery before working on any part of the fuel system or electrical system. Never risk spilling fuel on a hot engine or exhaust component. It is strongly recom-

mended

that a fire extinguisher suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires be kept handy in the garage or workshop at all times. Never try to

extinguish a fuel or electrical

fire

allow children or animals

in

or around it.

wear eye protection when using power such as a drill, sander, bench grinder,

may

burst.

Take care when adding water to a non maintenance-free battery and when carrying a battery. The electrolyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be allowed to contact clothing or skin. Always wear eye protection when cleaning

the

battery

When

the

caustic

using an electric power tool,

etc., which operates on household current, always make sure that the

inspection

light,

connected to its plug and necessary, it is properly that, grounded. Do not use such items in damp conditions and, again, do not create a spark or apply excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel tool

is

correctly

where

or fuel vapor.

Secondary

Fumes

voltage

Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconsciousness and even inhaled to any extent. Gasoline vapor

category, as do the vapors from cleaning solvents. Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done

falls into this

a well ventilated area. When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions on the container in

prevent

Household current

water.

if

to

deposits from entering your eyes.

with

some

the vehicle while you are working on

DO

in

bled and tightened.

death

to help you.

a job.

tools

work

sure that everything

highly flammable. Never

DON'T attempt to drain the engine oil until you are sure it has cooled to the point that it

alone

carry out

make

periodically

carefully.

or

set.

tially

DO

other products

DON'T

will

DO get someone to check on you when working alone on a vehicle.

rely

points.

cloth

DO make sure that any hoist used has a safe working load rating adequate for the job.

affects that of yourself

on a jack when working under the vehicle. Always use approved jackstands to support the weight of the vehicle and place them under the recommended lift or support

is

and when working under a vehicle. DO keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving parts. etc.

getting on with the job at

ignition

system

A severe electric shock can result from touching certain parts of the ignition system (such as the spark plug wires) when the engine is running or being cranked, particularly

if

components

are

damp

or the insulation

case of an electronic ignisystem, the secondary system voltage is much higher and could prove fatal. is

defective. In the

tion

0-16

Troubleshooting Contents

Symptom

Section

Engine Engine backfires Engine diesels (continues to run) after switching Engine hard to start when cold Engine hard to start when hot Engine lacks power Engine lopes while idling or idles erratically Engine misses at idle speed Engine misses throughout driving speed range Engine rotates but will not start Engine runs with oil pressure light on Engine stalls Engine starts but stops immediately Engine stumbles on acceleration Engine surges while holding accelerator steady Engine will not rotate when attempting to start Oil puddle under engine Pinging or knocking engine sounds during

15

18 3 4 14

off

8

in

engagement

in all

gears

in

neutral with engine running

in

one

particular gear

Slips out of gear

Vibration

Automatic transaxle

12

Transaxle

2 17 13 6

1

7

slips, shifts roughly, is noisy or has no drive forward or reverse gears Transaxle will not downshift with accelerator pedal

5

Alternator light

Battery

will

fails to

Shudder

go out

20

not hold a charge

Alternator light

fails

to

19

come on when key

is

turned on

21

Fuel system Excessive

fuel

consumption

22 23

Fuel leakage and/or fuel odor

Cooling system 28 26 27 25 24 29

Coolant loss External coolant leakage Internal coolant leakage Overcooling Overheating Poor coolant circulation

36

Clutch pedal stays on floor Clutch pedal travels to floor little

-

resistance

turns

or vibration during acceleration

Vibration at highway

*

speeds

vehicle

speed

Grabbing (chattering) as clutch High pedal effort Noise in clutch area Transaxle

is

engaged

rattling (clicking)

Unable to select gears

Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed Brake pedal travels to the floor with little resistance Brake rouo^mes s or chatter (pedal pulsates) Dragging brakes Excessive brake pedal travel Excessive pedal effort required to stop vehicle Grabbing or uneven braking action Noise (high-pitched squeal when the brakes are applied) Parking brake does not hold

68 69 63 66 65 64 67 62 70

Vehicle pulls to one side during braking

61

Suspension and steering systems

Clicking noise

in

turns

Clunk on acceleration or deceleration Knocking noise at low speeds Leaks lubricant Locked in second gear Noise most pronounced when turning

Cupped

72 77 84 79

tires

when

braking

around corners

Excessive pitching and/or

32 33 37 35 34

Excessive play or looseness in steering system Excessive tire wear on inside edge Excessive tire wear on outside edge

31

Rattling or clicking noise

rolling

or during braking

Manual transaxle 41

40 38 47 48 39

58 59 60

Brakes

30

Clutch slips (engine speed increases with no increase in

in

Erratic steering

no pressure or very

57 55 50

52

floor

Abnormal or excessive tire wear Abnormal noise at the front end

Clutch

51

Driveaxles Clicking noise

Engine electrical system

56 53 49

54

in

pressed to the

'.

45 43 44 46 42

11

10

16

motor noisy or excessively rough

Noisy Noisy Noisy

Section

Buzzing noise when in Reverse gear Engine will start in gears other than Park or Neutral FluidJeakage General shift mechanism problems Harsh 2-to-1 downshift when coasting High-pitched whistling noise in Park, Neutral and Overdrive Transaxle fluid brown or has burned smell

9

acceleration or uphill Starter

Symptom

.

Hard steering Poor retumability of steering to center in

steering gear

Squeaking noise from sway bar bushings Squeaking noise from front suspension Shimmy, shake or vibration Suspension bottoms Tire tread worn in one place Vehicle pulls to one side Wander or poor steering stability Wheel makes a thumping noise

80 88 86 85 75 76 89 81

82 74 83 87 70 78 73

0-17

Troubleshooting This section provides an easy reference

guide to the more common problems which may occur during the operation of your vehicle. These problems and their possible causes are grouped under headings denoting various

components

or systems, such as

Engine, Cooling system, etc. They also refer

you to the chapter and/or section which deals with the problem. Remember that successful troubleshooting is not a mysterious black art

Engine 1

practiced only by professional mechanics. is

It

simply the result of the right knowledge

combined with an

systematic approach to the problem. Always work by a process of elimination, starting with the simplest solution and working through to the most complex - and never overlook the obvious. Anyone can run the gas tank dry or leave the lights on overnight, so don't assume that you are exempt from such oversights. Finally, always establish a clear idea of intelligent,

Engine hard to start when hot

1

Air filter

2

Fuel not reaching the carburetor or fuel

1 Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 1). 2 Battery discharged or faulty (Chapter 1). 3 Automatic transaxle not completely engaged in Park (Chapter 7) or clutch not completely depressed (Chapter 8). 4 Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit (Chapters 5 and 12). Starter motor pinion jammed in flywheel 5 ring gear (Chapter 5). Starter solenoid faulty (Chapter 5). 6 7 Starter motor faulty (Chapter 5). 8 Ignition switch faulty (Chapter 12). Starter pinion or flywheel teeth worn or 9 broken (Chapter 5).

will

clogged (Chapter

2

not start

5

motor noisy or excessively rough in engagement Starter

1 Pinion or flywheel gear teeth worn or broken (Chapter 5). 2 Starter motor mounting bolts loose or

missing (Chapter

2

discharged

slowly) (Chapter

(engine

rotates

Leaking

Loose or

sure regulator, etc. (Chapter 5

7

Worn,

faulty or incorrectly

gapped spark

is

in

5).

changing

ignition

1).

Broken, loose or disconnected wires at

the ignition coil or faulty coil (Chapter

Leaking head gasket (Chapter 2). Timing belt and/or pulleys worn (Chap-

Camshaft lobes worn (Chapter 2). Idle Speed (AIS) motor defec-

8 tive

Automatic (Chapter 4)

9

Engine misses at

1

Spark plugs worn or not gapped prop-

erly

(Chapter

idle

speed

1).

2

Faulty spark plug wires (Chapter

3 4

Vacuum

5

Uneven

10

Engine misses throughout driving speed range

1

Fuel

leaks (Chapter

Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter

filter

Low

fuel

1

and

4).

output at the injector(s) (Chap-

ter 4).

Faulty or incorrectly

(Chapter

gapped spark plugs

1).

distributor cap,

distributor wires or

puddle under engine pan gasket and/or

Oil

2

Oil

oil

,3

pan drain

bolt

2).

pressure sending unit leaking (Chap-

Valve covers leaking (Chapter

4

Engine

5

Oil

oil

pump

2). 2).

housing leaking (Chapter oil

return

distributor

com-

line

1

5).

Faulty emission system

(Chapter

components

6).

Low or uneven cylinder compression 8 pressures (Chapter 2). 9 Weak or faulty ignition system (Chapter 5).

seals leaking (Chapter

6 Turbocharger (Chapter 4).

damaged

5).

disconnected

ponents (Chapters 1 and 5). Leaking spark plug wires (Chapters 6 or

1

in

1).

Cracked

leak at

body (Chapters

Oil

2).

clogged and/or impurities

the fuel system (Chapter

5

throttle

1).

compression (Chapter

or low

Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter

Vacuum

1).

1).

4

10 2).

leaking

Vacuum

leak at the carburetor/ fuel

injection throttle body, intake manifold, or

vacuum hoses (Chapter

4).

5).

11

8 3

more

important component or system.

intake manifold or carburetor/ fuel injection

ter 2).

1).

distributor

timing (Chapter

10

damaged

Broken, loose or disconnected wiring

Loose

often be indicative of poten-

3

1

pump, pres-

or

the

don't just replace one fuse failure of a small

failure or incorrect functioning of a

2

Insufficient fuel reaching the carburetor

washer leaking (Chapter

the starting circuit (Chapter

9

at

5).

4).

damp

If

Remember,

component can tial

7

plugs (Chapter 8

(Chapter

4).

Ignition components 6 (Chapter 5).

-

and 4). the gasket between the

Fuel not reaching fuel injection system

(Chapter

connections

faulty electrical

or fuel injector(s) (Chapters

3

fuel injector(s), fuel

doesn't happen again.

5).

5).

3 Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 1). 4

why

after another.

Engine starts but stops immediately 1

Fuel tank empty.

Battery

find out

7

1).

system (Chapter 4). Corroded battery connections, espe3 cially ground (Chapter 1).

distributor, coil or alternator 1

it

system fails because of a poor connection, check the other connections in the system to make sure that they don't fail as well. If a particular fuse continues to blow, electrical

ter 2).

Engine will not rotate when attempting to start

Engine rotates but

a problem has occurred and take steps

to ensure that

5 6

4

injection

2

why

Engine hard to start when cold

Engine lopes while

Engine stumbles on acceleration

idling or idles

erratically

Spark plugs fouled (Chapter 1). Spark plug wire(s) faulty. Carburetor or fuel injection system 3 needs adjustment or repair (Chapter 4). 4 Fuel filter clogged (Chapters 1 and 4). 1

2 1

Battery discharged or low (Chapter

2

Malfunctioning fuel system (Chapter

3

Carburetor needs overhaul or

tors) leaking (Chapter

4

Distributor rotor

ter 5).

1).

4).

fuel injec-

4).

carbon tracked (Chap-

1

Vacuum leakage (Chapters

2

Leaking

EGR

3

Air filter

clogged (Chapter

4

Fuel

pump

2 and

valve (Chapter

6).

1).

not delivering sufficient fuel

to the carburetor or fuel injection

(Chapter

4).

4).

system

5 6

and

Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter

1).

Intake manifold air leak (Chapters 2 4).

3 1

0-18

Troubleshooting

Engine surges while holding accelerator steady

12

16

Pinging or knocking engine sounds during acceleration or

21

come on

Alternator light fails to

when key

is

turned on

uphill 1

Intake air leak (Chapter

2

Fuel

3

Loose

pump

fuel injector wire

tors (Chapter

4).

harness connec-

1

Incorrect grade of fuel.

2

Ignition timing incorrect

Defective

13

Engine

stalls

1

Fuel

clogged and/or water and impu-

(Chapter

6).

wires (Chapter

rities in

2

filter

the fuel system (Chapters

Distributor

1

and

components damp

4).

or

17

Vacuum

leak

in

1).

the carburetor/fuel injec-

system, intake manifold or vacuum hoses (Chapters 2 and 4). 7 Idle speed too low (Chapter 1).

tion

1

Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter

2

Excessive

(Chapter

play

in

5).

distributor

on

2

Idle

3

Short

in

4

Faulty

5

Worn

pressure sender (Chapter 2). engine bearings and/or oil pump

(Chapter

18

oil

level

(Chapter

Engine backfires Emission control system not functioning

properly (Chapter

6).

Ignition timing incorrect (Chapter 1). 2 3 Faulty secondary ignition system (cracked spark plug insulator, faulty plug wires, distributor cap and/or rotor) (Chap-

rpm below

specification (Chapter

1).

wiring circuit (Chapter 12).

Dirty or

2).

supply

line

element (Chap-

air filter

1).

Emissions system not functioning prop-

erly

(Chapter

leaking

6).

Carburetor or

parts excessively

fuel

injection

internal

worn or damaged (Chap-

ter 4).

Low

5 oil

clogged

Incorrectly set ignition timing (Chap-

4

oil

Turbocharger

(Chapter

tire

pressure or incorrect

tire

size

1).

4).

Engine diesels (continues to run)

23

Fuel leakage and/or fuel odor

after switching off Leaking fuel feed or return

Excessive engine operating temperature (Chapter 3).

2

and Tank

3

Evaporative

ters

1

2

Idle

speed too high (Chapter

1).

1

(Chap-

line

4).

overfilled.

canister

clogged

filter

and 6). 4 Carburetor or Fuel injection parts excessively worn (Chapter 4). (Chapters

Engine electrical system 19

Battery

1

internal

will

Cooling system

not hold a charge

24 1

Overheating

Alternator drivebelt defective or not

adjusted properly (Chapter

1

1).

ter

2

Battery electrolyte level low (Chapter

3

Battery terminals loose or corroded

2

(Chapter 1). 4 Alternator not charging properly (Chap-

3

1).

Insufficient coolant in

system (Chap-

1).

Water pump

drivebelt defective or out of

adjustment (Chapter

1).

Radiator core blocked or

grille restricted

ter 5).

(Chapter

5 Loose, broken or faulty wiring in the charging circuit (Chapter 5). 6 Short in vehicle wiring (Chapter 12). 7 Internally defective battery (Chapters 1

4

Thermostat

5

Electric coolant fan blades

and

5).

(Chapter

(Chapter

2

3).

faulty (Chapter 3).

cracked (Chapter 6

light fails to

broken or

3).

Radiator cap not maintaining proper

pressure (Chapter

20 Alternator

and 5). 4 Carburetor or fuel injection syotem in need of adjustment or worn excessively 5

1

5).

Brakes binding (Chapter 9). 8 Automatic transaxle fluid level incorrect (Chapter 1). Clutch slipping (Chapter 8). 9 10 Fuel filter clogged and/or impurities in the fuel system (Chapters 1 and 4). 1 Emission control system not functioning properly (Chapter 6). 12 Low or uneven cylinder compression pressures (Chapter 2). 1 Turbocharger inoperative (Chapter 4).

ters

Excessive fuel consumption

3

1).

ter 4).

1

22

2

adjustment or excessively worn (Chap-

15

dash wiring

Fuel system

1

Faulty coil (Chapter

circuit,

or bulb holder (Chapter 12).

ter

shaft

4 Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1). Carburetor or fuel injection system out 5

6 7

the printed

in

ter 1).

5).

Worn rotor, distributor cap or wires 3 (Chapters 1 and 5).

of

pressure

Low

(Chapter

Engine lacks power

oil

1

6

14

Fault

1).

Engine runs with light

6).

Faulty spark plug wires (Chapter

6

2

Worn or damaged distributor compo5 nents (Chapter 5). 6 Faulty emission system (Chapter 6). 7 Vacuum leak (Chapters 2 and 4).

4 Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1). 5

1).

dam-

aged (Chapter 5). Faulty emissions system components 3 (Chapter

(Chapter

Carburetor or fuel injection system in need of adjustment (Chapter 4). Improper or damaged spark plugs or 4

4

bulb defective (Chap-

light

ter^).

3

4).

ECU

Warning

1

faulty (Chapter 4).

3).

(Chapter

7

Ignition timing incorrect

25

Overcooling

1

Faulty thermostat (Chapter

2

Inaccurate temperature gauge sending

5).

go out

1

4).

Vacuum

leak at carburetor/throttle

body

or fuel injector(s), intake manifold, air control

valve or

vacuum hoses (Chapters

2 and

4).

1

Faulty alternator or charging

circuit

5).

Alternator drivebelt defective or out of adjustment (Chapter 1). 3 Alternator voltage regulator inoperative (Chapter 5).

unit

(Chapter

3)

3).

0-19

Troubleshooting

32

External coolant leakage

26

Clutch slips (engine speed increases with no increase vehicle speed)

Deteriorated/damaged hoses; loose 1 clamps (Chapters 1 and 3). Water pump seal defective (Chap2

1

ter 3).

2

Clutch plate

3

Clutch plate not seated.

Leakage from radiator core or coolant

3

reservoir bottle (Chapter

3).

Engine drain or water jacket core plugs leaking (Chapter 2). Turbocharger coolant supply or return 5 4

leaking (Chapter

line

4).

39

Noise most pronounced when turning

in

Clutch plate worn (Chapter

or 40 normal starts for a

may

new one

Warped pressure

4

It

plate

rear

40

take 30

Clunk on acceleration or deceleration

to seat.

or

flywheel 1

(Chapter

8).

Loose engine

Weak diaphragm

6

Clutch plate overheated. Allow to cool.

spring (Chapter

8).

2

Internal coolant leakage

Grabbing (chattering) as clutch

3

Worn Worn

mounts

4

differential pinion shaft in case."

side gear shaft counterbore

case (Chapter

Worn

or

is

in dif-

7A).'

damaged

(Chapter

joints

engaged

Leaking cylinder head gasket (Chap-

1

transaxle

or

(Chapters 2 and 7A).

5

33

7A).*

8).

soaked by leaking main seal (Chapters 2 and 8). is oil

ferential

27

gear noise (Chapter

Differential

driveaxle inboard

CV

8).

ter 2).

Cracked cylinder bore or cylinder head

2

(Chapter

on clutch plate

burned or

lining,

41

glazed facings (Chapter 8). 2 Worn or loose engine

2).

mounts (Chapters 2 and 7). Worn splines on clutch 3

Coolant loss

28

Oil

1

Clicking noise

turns

transaxle

or

Worn plate

in

hub (Chap-

(Chapter

damaged outboard CV

or

joint

8).

ter 8).

Too much coolant

1

ter

in

system (Chap-

1).

Coolant boiling away because of overheating (Chapter 3). 3 Internal or external leakage (Chapter 3). 4 Faulty radiator cap (Chapter 3). Turbocharger coolant supply or return 5 2

line

leaking (Chapter

4).

Warped pressure

4

(Chapter

or

plate

flywheel

8).

Glazed clutch disc, flywheel or pressure

5

plate (Chapter

1

and

34

Transaxle rattling (clicking)

Release fork loose (Chapter 8). Clutch plate damper spring (Chapter 8). 1

Poor coolant circulation

1

Inoperative water

2 ters

3

5

(Chapter

3).

in cooling system (Chapand 3). Water pump drivebelt defective/out of

failure

Noise

1

Fork shaft improperly installed (Chap-

in

clutch area

1).

2

•

Faulty bearing (Chapter

(Chapters

Damaged

5

1

driveaxle (Chapter

8).

10).

Noisy in neutral with engine running

Damaged

input gear bearing (Chap-

ter 7 A).*

8).

2

Thermostat sticking (Chapter 3). Restriction in turbocharger coolant sup-

ply or return line (Chapter 4).

bearing

Out-of-round tires (Chapter 1). Tire out of balance (Chapters 1 and Worn CV joint (Chapter 8).

1

ter 8).

wheel

3 4

43

35

Rough 10).

2

Restriction

1

adjustment (Chapter 4

pump

Vibration

8).

2

29

42

Damaged

clutch release bearing (Chap-

ter 8).

36

Clutch pedal stays on floor

1

Broken release bearing or fork (Chap-

44

Noisy

1

Damaged

in

one particular gear

ter 8).

2

Clutch cable broken (Chapter

8)

Clutch 37

30

Clutch pedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little resistance Clutch cable broken (Chapter

31

Unable to select gears

1

Faulty transaxle (Chapter

2

Faulty clutch disc (Chapter

3 erly

4

8).

2

High pedal effort

worn constant-mesh gears

Damaged

or

worn synchronizers (Chap-

ter 7A).' 1

Pressure plate faulty (Chapter

2

Damaged

(Chapter

or

binding

8).

clutch

cable

8).

Bent reverse fork (Chapter 7A).' 3 Damaged fourth speed gear or output 4 gear (Chapter 7A).' Worn or damaged reverse idler gear or 5 idler bushing (Chapter 7 A).*

Manual transaxle

7). 8).

38

Knocking noise

1

Worn

at

8).

Faulty pressure plate (Chapter 8). Pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts loose 5 (Chapter 8).

joints

2

driveaxle constant velocity (CV)

(Chapter

Worn

ferential

Noisy

1

Insufficient lubricant

2

Damaged

in all

or

(Chapter 7A).

worn bearings (Chap-

ter 7 A).*

8).

side gear shaft counterbore

case (Chapter

gears

45 low speeds

Fork and bearing not assembled prop(Chapter

or

(Chapter 7 A).*

7A).*

in dif-

Worn or damaged input gear shaft 3 and/or output gear shaft (Chapter 7A).*

0-20

Troubleshooting

46

Slips out of gear

1

Worn

50

Transaxle fluid brown or has a burned smell burned (Chapter

Transaxle

fluid

(Chapter 7A). Input gear bearing retainer broken or

4

51

Dirt

General

shift

equipped with 41 TE transaxles.

mechanism

between clutch cover and engine

housing (Chapter 7A). Worn shift fork (Chapter 7A).* 6

Chapter

1

7,

Part B, deals with checking

and adjusting the transaxles.

57

linkage on automatic problems which may be

shift

Common

attributed to poorly adjusted linkage are: a)

Leaks lubricant

47 1

Side gear shaft seals worn (Chapter

2

Excessive

amount

of

and

7A).

transaxle (Chapters

1

Engine starting

in

lubricant

8).

c)

2

Loose or broken input gear shaft bear-

Indicator on shifter pointing to a gear

other than the one actually being used.

in

downshift when coasting to a stop or after applying pressure to the accelerator at low speeds

Harsh 2 to

1

gears other than Park

or Neutral. b)

3

reverse

in

problems

loose (Chapter 7A).* 5

when

A technical service bulletin has been issued concerning 1992 and some 1993 LeBaron coupe and convertible models

1).

Transaxle loose on engine (Chapter 7 A). Shift linkage does not work freely, binds

3

Buzzing noise gear

or improperly adjusted linkage

(Chapter 7A). 2

56

moves when Refer to Chapter 7B Vehicle

in Park.

A

technical service bulletin has been

1992 models LeBaron coupe and convertible equipped with 41 TE transaxles. issued

concerning

1989

through

for the shift linkage

adjustment procedure.

ing retainer (Chapter 7 A).*

Input gear bearing retainer O-ring and/or

4 lip

seal

damaged (Chapter

7A).*

52 48

Locked

in

second gear

Transaxle will not downshift with accelerator pedal pressed to the

Driveaxles

floor

58 pin or interlock pin missing (Chap-

Lock

ment (Chapter

ter 7 A).*

Although the corrective action necessary to remedy the symptoms described is beyond the scope of the home mechanic, the above information should be helpful in isolating the cause of the condition so that the owner can communicate clearly with a transmission spe-

Clicking noise in turns

Throttle Valve (TV) cable out of adjust7B).

Worn

*

(Chapter

53

or

damaged outboard CV

joint

8).

Engine will start in gears other than Park or Neutral

59 Neutral

start

switch

Shudder or

vibration during

acceleration

malfunctioning

cialist.

(Chapter 7B).

Excessive toe-in (Chapter 10). or damaged inboard or outboard

1

Worn

2

Automatic transaxle Note:

Due

transaxle,

to the

it

54

complexity of the automatic

is difficult

for the

home mechanic

diagnose and service this component. For problems other than the following, the vehicle should be taken to a dealer or

Transaxle slips, shifts roughly, is noisy or has no drive in forward or reverse gears

CV joints

(Chapter

Sticking

3

(Chapter

8).

inboard

CV

joint

assembly

8).

to properly

transmission shop.

There are many probable causes for the above problems, but the home mechanic should be concerned with only one possibility -

49

Fluid leakage

fluid level.

Before taking the vehicle to a

and condition of Chapter 1 Correct the fluid level as necessary or change the fluid and filter if needed. If the problem persists, have a professional diagnose the repair shop,

check the

the fluid as described

Automatic transmission

1

fluid is

a deep

red color. Fluid leaks should not be confused

which can easily be blown onto the transaxle by air flow. 2 To pinpoint a leak, first remove all builtup dirt and grime from the transaxle housing with degreasing agents and/or steam cleaning. Then drive the vehicle at low speeds so air flow will not blow the leak far from its source. Raise the vehicle and determine where the leak is coming from. Common

with engine

oil,

and

a)

Pan (Chapters

b)

Dipstick tube (Chapters

c)

Transaxle

d)

Speed sensor (Chapter

1

oil lines

.

55

High pitched whistling noise at with shift lever in Park, Neutral or Overdrive idle

1

and

(Chapter 7)

7)

7)

1

Out-of-balance front wheels and/or 1 and 10). Out-of-round front

tires

(Chapters 2

and

tires

Worn CV joint(s) (Chapter

3

(Chapters

1

10). 8).

technical service bulletin has been

coupe and

convertible

Note: Before assuming that a brake problem make sure that: a) The tires are in good condition and properly inflated (Chap-ter 1). b) The front end alignment is correct

models equipped with

41TE (1992 and 1993) and 42LE transaxles.

Brakes exists,

issued concerning 1992 and 1993 LeBaron

7)

Vibration at highway speeds

cause.

A

areas of leakage are:

level

in

60

(1993)

(Chapter c)

10).

The vehicle is not loaded with weight an unequal manner.

in

Troubleshooting Vehicle pulls to one side during

61

66

Dragging brakes

1

Incorrect

0-21

71

Vehicle pulls to one side

1

Mismatched

braking pressures (Chapter

Incorrect

2

Front end out of line (have the front end

tire

1).

matched

Front or rear tires not

to

one

Restricted brake lines or hoses (Chap-

4

and

1

Malfunctioning caliper or drum brake assembly (Chapter 9). 6 Loose suspension parts (Chapter 10). 7 Loose calipers (Chapter 9). Excessive wear of brake shoe or pad 8 material or disc/drum on one side.

9).

parking

brake

comes from

Malfunction

of

proportioning

valve

9).

Malfunction of power brake booster unit (Chapter 9).

all

68

vehi-

Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed

ately (Chapter 9).

2

new pads (many compound on the

incorrectly installed

require an anti-squeal

backing

Air in hydraulic lines (Chapter 9).

2

Master cylinder mounting bolts loose

(Chapter

plates).

5

balance (Chapter damper (Chapter Overloaded vehicle.

6

Tires not rotated regularly.

73

Wheel makes a thumping noise

1

Blister or

2

Improper

3

Tire out of

10).

4

Worn

10).

2

Uneven pad wear (Chapter

3

Defective disc (Chapter

runout (Chapter

little

9).

(Chapter

9).

Excessive brake pedal effort required to stop vehicle

Malfunctioning power brake booster (Chapter 9).

or

9).

Loose,

damaged

or disconnected brake

lines

(Chapter

70

Parking brake does not hold Parking

1

9).

brake

adjusted (Chapters

1

linkage

Shimmy, shake or

1

Tire or

and

Piston

in

caliper or

or sluggish (Chapter

5 oil

9).

Brake pads or shoes contaminated with or grease (Chapter 9).

New pads

6

seated. rial

wheel cylinder stuck

will

It

or shoes installed and not yet

take a while for the

to seat against the disc or

new mate-

drum.

3 4

Worn

ters

and

1

Partial

2

Insufficient

3

and

Air 9).

fluid

and 9). trapped

(Chapters

failure

in

(Chapter

Tires for

Hard steering

3

and

wrong pressure and uneven

master cylinder

system (Chapters

1

at balljoints. tie-rod

Front wheel alignment (Chapter 10).

Low

tire

pressure(s)

(Chapters

1

10).

76

Poor

damaged

1

Lack of lubrication

at balljoints

and

tie-

rod ends (Chapter 10).

2 3

Binding

Binding

parts.

ter 10).

Out-of-round or out-of-balance tires, bent rims and loose and/or rough wheel

4

bearings.

returnability of steering to

center

Steering universal joints from the column to the steering gear for loose connectors or wear. Front and rear suspension and the steering gear assembly for loose or

9).

d) in

1

10).

75

following preliminary checks: a)

1

(Chapters

Note: Before attempting to diagnose the suspension and steering systems, perform the

c)

brake system

balljoints

Excessive wheel runout (Chapter 10). Blister or bump on tire (Chapter 10).

wear.

Excessive brake pedal travel

lower

5 6

2

Suspension and steering systems

b)

65

10).

Loose or worn wheel bearings (Chap1, 8 and 10). Worn tie-rod ends (Chapter 10).

1 Lack of lubrication ends and steering gear assembly (Chapter 10).

ter 9).

4

wheel out-of-balance or out-of-

9).

Partial

3

vibration

improperly

system failure (Chapter 9). Excessively worn pads or shoes (Chap-

2

bump on tire (Chapter 1 0). strut damper action (Chap-

round (Chapter

resistance

no fluid in the master cylinder reservoir caused by leaking caliper piston(s) Little

1

9).

2

64

strut

74

2 lateral

(Chap-

9).

Brake pedal travels to the floor with

(pedal pulsates) Excessive

Wheel alignment (Chapter 10). Sagging or broken springs

9).

Master cylinder defective (Chapter

69

Brake roughness or chatter

1

wear

tire

ter 10).

1

3

63

Abnormal or excessive

ter 9).

Replace pads with new ones immedi-

cles).

72

9).

Binding brake pedal mechanism (Chap-

3

the wear sensor rubbing

against the disc (does not apply to

Front brake dragging (Chapter

10).

ter 10).

Front disc brake pads worn out. The

1

noise

4

2

2

when

Broken or sagging springs (Chapter Wheel alignment (Chapter 10).

1

action

1

Noise (high-pitched squeal the brakes are applied)

3

2

adjustment

Grabbing or uneven braking

(Chapter

62

(Chap-

tires

9).

5

67

uneven

9).

Incorrect

4

or

ter 10).

Restricted brake lines or hoses (Chap-

3

(Chapter

ter 9).

light

Master cylinder pistons not returning

2

ters

another.

brake

9).

correctly (Chapter

aligned).

3

adjustment of

switch (Chapter

1

in balljoints

in

(Chapter

steering

10).

column (Chap-

Lack of lubricant in steering gear assembly (Chapter 10). Front wheel alignment (Chapter 10). 5

0-22

Troubleshooting Excessive speed in turns. Front end alignment incorrect (excessive

2

77 1

Abnormal noise

and tieand 1 0). Damaged strut mounting (Chapter 1 0). Worn control arm bushings or tie-rod Lack

2 3

81

of lubrication at balljoints

rod ends (Chapters ii

end

at the front

1

or

uneven

(Chap-

tires

ter 10).

2 Lack of lubrication at balljoints and tierod ends (Chapters 1 and 10). Worn strut assemblies (Chapter 1 0). 3 4 Loose stabilizer bar (Chapter 1 0). Broken or sagging springs (Chap5

A

Wheel alignment (Chapter

professionally aligned.

technical service bulletin has been

convertible models with improperly installed

86

Excessive

tire

wear on

inside

edge

sway bar bushings.

Squeaking noise from the front suspension strut mount when

pressures incorrect (Chapter

1

Inflation

2

Front end alignment incorrect (toe-out).

Have

turning Technical Service Bulletin #02-05-92 has been issued concerning 1992 and 1993 coupe and convertible models with improper strut mounts.

83

Suspension bottoms

1

Overloaded vehicle.

worn

Tire tread

1

Tires out of balance.

2

Damaged

3

Worn strut dampers (Chapter 10). 3 Incorrect, broken or sagging springs (Chapter 10).

damaged

if

steering

compo-

10).

87

replace

10).

1).

professionally aligned.

3 Loose or nents (Chapter

ter 10).

6

Have

Suspension arm bent or twisted (Chap-

issued concerning 1992 and 1993 coupe and

or poor steering stability

Mismatched

4

3

ter 10).

82

Wander

toe-in).

bump

1

ends (Chapter 1 0). 4 Loose stabilizer bar (Chapter 10). 5 Loose wheel nuts (Chapters 1 and 10). 6 Loose suspension bolts (Chapter 10).

78

Squeaking noise from the sway bar bushings when going over a

in

one place

or buckled wheel. Inspect

and

necessary.

Defective

(Chapter

tire

1).

2

79 1

2

Erratic steering

when braking

Wheel bearings worn (Chapter 10). Broken or sagging springs (Chap-

84

Cupped

tires

er10).

3

Leaking wheel cylinder or caliper (Chap1

ter 10).

4

Warped

80

Excessive pitching and/or around corners or during

rotors or

drums (Chapter

1 0).

rolling

braking

Front wheel or rear wheel alignment

(Chapter 10). 2 Worn strut dampers (Chapter 1 0). 3 Wheel bearings worn (Chapter 10). 4 Excessive tire or wheel runout (Chap-

88

Worn

85

Excessive

balljoints

(Chapter

1

Wheel

Tie-rod end loose (Chapter 10).

3 4

Steering gear loose (Chapter 10). Worn or loose steering intermediate

Loose

stabilizer bar

(Chapter

10).

2 Worn strut dampers or mountings (Chapter 10). Broken or sagging springs (Chapter 1 0). 3 4 Overloaded vehicle.

tire

89

1 0).

1 0).

Rattling or clicking noise in

steering gear

wear on outside

Insufficient

2

pressures incorrect (Chapter

or

improper lubricant

in

steering gear assembly (Chapter 10).

Steering gear attachment loose (Chap-

ter 10). Inflation

worn (Chapter

1 0).

edge 1

bearing(s)

shaft (Chapter

1

1

in

2

ter 10).

5

Excessive play or looseness steering system

1).

1

1-1

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance Contents Section replacement Airbag system check Automatic transaxle band adjustment (three-speed

models

Section replacement Fuel system check Heated inlet air system check Idle speed check and adjustment (carbureted

21

Air filter

Fuel

37 41

only)

Automatic transaxle fluid level check Automatic transaxle fluid and filter change Battery check, maintenance and charging Brake system check Carburetor choke check and cleaning Carburetor/fuel injection throttle body mounting bolt/nut torque check Chassis lubrication

Combustion chamber conditioner application (Canadian leaded fuel models only) Cooling system check Cooling system servicing (draining, flushing and Differential lubricant change (1982 automatic transaxle models only) Differential lubricant level check (1982 automatic transaxle models only) Driveaxle boot check Drivebelt check, adjustment and replacement Engine oil and filter change Evaporative emissions control system check Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system check Exhaust system check Fluid level checks

models

6

40 10 34 25

28 27

See Chapter 4

only)

Ignition timing

check and adjustment

36

Introduction

1

2

13 42

Maintenance schedule Manual transaxle lubricant change Manual transaxle lubricant level check Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve check and replacement Power steering fluid level check Rear wheel bearing check, repack and adjustment Seat belt check Spark plug check and replacement Spark plug wire, distributor cap and rotor check and replacement Steering and suspension check Steering shaft seal lubrication (1985 and earlier models Tire and tire pressure checks

20

Tire rotation

1

Tune-up general information Underhood hose check and replacement Valve clearance check and adjustment (2.6L engine Wiper blade inspection and replacement

24 15 9

26 16 14

29 35

refilling)

17

filter

39

8

43 23 30

38 12 22 7

33 44 18 19 31 only)

32 5 3

only)

4

Specifications

Recommended Engine

lubricants

and

fluids

oil

SG

SG/CD

Type

API

Viscosity

See accompanying chart

Manual transaxle lubricant 1986 and earlier models 1987 and later models Automatic transaxle fluid

or

DEXRON

multigrade and fuel efficient

oil

II

SAE 5W30

engine

Mopar Plus Type

oil

71 76

ATF

or equivalent fluid meeting the

manufacturer's specifications Differential lubricant

Power Brake

DEXRON

(1982 automatic transaxle only)

II

Mopar 4-253 power

steering fluid

DOT

fluid

ENGINE OIL VISCOSITY CHART

3 brake

steering fluid or equivalent

fluid

MANUAL TRANSAXLE LUBRICANT VISCOSITY CHART Y -20W 40- - 20W 50-

For best fuel

economy and cold starting, SAE viscosity grade for

select the lowest

the expected temperature range

20 40 60 80 DEGREES FAHRENHEIT -30

-20

-10

10

20

DEGREES CELSIUS

30

100

40

20 40 60 80 DEGREES FAHRENHEIT -30

-20

-10

10

20

30

100

40

DEGREES CELSIUS 1-A1

HAVNESI

1-2

Chapter

Recommended

lubricants

and

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

fluids (continued)

Engine coolant Transaxle

shift

50/50 mixture of ethylene glycol-based antifreeze and water NLGI no. 2 chassis grease NLGI no. 2 chassis grease White lithium-based grease NLGI no. 2 NLGI no. 2 EP grease NLGI no. 2 EP high-temperature wheel bearing grease API GL-4 SAE 90W gear oil NLGI no. 2 EP grease Engine oil NLGI no. 2 multi-purpose grease Graphite spray

linkage grease

Clutch linkage grease Parking brake mechanism grease Chassis lubrication grease Rear wheel bearing grease

o®®®

Steering gear lubricant Steering shaft seal

Hood, door and trunk/liftgate hinge lubricant Door hinge and check spring grease Key lock cylinder lubricant Hood latch assembly lubricant Door latch striker lubricant

Mopar Lubriplate or equivalent Mopar Door Ease no. 3744859

0754H

four-cylinder engine

or equivalent

O®® ®®@

Capacities* Engine oil (including Automatic transaxle Drain and

filter) - all

models

4.5 qts 4.0 qts

refill

From dry (including torque converter) Manual transaxle

2.3 qts

Cooling system

9.0 qts

'All

capacities approximate.

Add as

necessary to bring to appropriate

FRONT

8.9 qts

I

level.

V6 engine

Cylinder location and distributor rotation

Brakes

t

Disc brake pad wear

Drum brake shoe

limit (including

lining

wear

metal shoe)

limit

The blackened terminal shown on the distributor cap indicates the

5/16 inch

Number One

1/16 inch

spark plug

wire position

Ignition

system

Spark plug type Four-cylinder engines... Six-cylinder engine

,

Champion RN12YC or equivalent Champion RN1 1 YC4 or equivalent

Spark plug gap Four-cylinder engines.... Six-cylinder engine

-

0.035 inch 0.044 inch

Spark plug wire resistance

Minimum

,

Maximum

,

Ignition timing

,

3000 ohms per foot 7200 ohms per foot See the Vehicle Emissions Control Information engine compartment

Firing order

-3-4-2

Four-cylinder engines.

1

Six-cylinder engine

1-2-3-4-5-6

Drivebelt deflection Alternator

New

1/8 inch

Used Power steering pump

1/4 inch

New

1/4 inch

Used

7/16 inch

Water pump

New

1/8 inch

Used Air conditioning

1/4 inch

compressor

New

5/16 inch

Used

7/16 inch

Automatic transaxle band adjustment Kickdown (front) 1983 and earlier 1984 and later Low-Reverse (all)

Tighten to 72

in-lbs,

then back off 2-3/4 turns

Tighten to 72

in-lbs,

Tighten to 41

in-lbs,

then back off 2-1/2 turns then back off 3-1/2 turns

Valve adjustment Valve clearance

-

engine hot (2.6L engine only)

Intake

Exhaust valves Jet valves

0.006 inch 0.010 inch 0.006 inch

label in the

1

Chapter

1

Torque specifications

Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)

Carburetor mounting bolts/nuts

17

body mounting bolts/nuts Turbo models Non-turbo models

1-3

Tune-up and routine maintenance

Throttle

Spark plugs

40 175 26

Wheel lug nuts 1983 and earlier models 1984 and later models

80 95

in-lbs

Automatic transaxle

Pan

bolts

body screws Low-Reverse band adjusting screw Low-Reverse band adjusting band locknut 1982 models 1983 and later models Filter-to-valve

170 in-lbs 40 in-lbs 41

20 10

Engine compartment components V6 shown, others similar 1 Windshield washer reservoir 2 Power steering fluid dipstick 3 Air filter housing

Brake fluid reservoir 5 Battery 6 Radiator cap 7 Automatic transaxle 8 Engine oil dipstick 9 Engine oil filler cap 10 Coolant reservoir 4

Typical engine

compartment

underside components

1

2 3 4

5 6 7 8

Engine oil drain plug Engine oil filter Automatic transaxle fluid pan Brake hose Brake caliper Driveaxle boot Exhaust pipe Front suspension strut

cap

1

Distributor

12

Upper radiator hose

13

Serpentine drivebelt

fluid dipstick

1-4

Chapter

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

Typical rear underside

1

Muffler

2 3 4 5 6

Fuel lines Fuel

components

hose

filler

Shock absorber Fuel tank

Parking brake cable

7 Exhaust system hanger

Introduction This Chapter

designed to help the home mechanic maintain the Chrysler midsize models with the goals of maximum performance, economy, safety and reliability in

is

mind.

various components.

to

critical

fasteners

The first step in this maintenance program is to prepare yourself before the actual work begins. Read through all the

of

procedures you're planning to do, then all the parts and tools needed. If it looks like you might run into problems during a particular job, seek advice from a mechanic or an experienced do-it-yourselfer. gather up

to

For example, if the vehicle is raised, you should inspect the exhaust, suspension,

Maintenance schedule

based on the assumption be doing the maintenance or service work, as opposed to having a dealer service department do the work. Although the time/mileage intervals are loosely based on factory recommendations, most have been shortened to ensure, for example, that such items as lubricants and fluids are following maintenance intervals are

that the vehicle

owner

checked/changed driveline service

will

at

life.

that

intervals

promote maximum engine/

Also, subject to the preference of the individual

owner interested in keeping his or her vehicle in peak condition at all times, and with the vehicle's ultimate resale in mind, many of the maintenance procedures may be performed more often than recommended in the following schedule. We encourage such owner initiative.

When

the vehicle

is

new

it

should be serviced

initially

by a

factory authorized dealer service department to protect the factory In

many cases the

initial

maintenance check

is

done

at

no cost to

the owner (check with your dealer service department for information).

more

Every 250 miles or weekly, whichever comes first Check the engine

oil level;

Section 4) Check the engine coolant

add

oil

level;

as necessary (see

add coolant as necessary

(see Section 4) the windshield washer fluid level (see Section 4) the battery electrolyte level (see Section 4)

Check Check Check Check Check Check Check Check Check

the brake

it

as time allows.

performing or because of the close proximity

two otherwise unrelated components one another.

tires,

are

check the torque of as many

the nature of the particular procedure you're of

you're rotating the

check the brakes, already removed. Finally, let's suppose you have to borrow or rent a torque wrench. Even if you only need it to tighten the spark plugs, you might as well

same results. As you service the vehicle, you'll discover that many of the procedures can be grouped together because

systems while you're under

since the wheels

not produce the

and should

fuel

When

makes good sense

items but not others at the specified intervals

-

and

Chrysler mid-size model

2

warranty.

steering

the vehicle.

and vehicle service life. Keep in mind that it's a comprehensive program - maintaining some will

Included is a master maintenance schedule, followed by procedures dealing specifically with each item on the schedule. Visual checks, adjustments, component replacement and other helpful items are included. Refer to the accompanying illustrations of the engine compartment and the underside of the vehicle for the locations of

The

Adhering to the mileage/time maintenance schedule and following the step-by-step procedures, which is simply a preventive maintenance program, will result in maximum reliability

fluid level (see

the tires and

Section

4)

pressures (see Section 5) the automatic transaxle fluid level (see Section 6) the power steering fluid level (see Section 7) the wiper blade condition (see Section 9) tire

the operation of

all

the horn operation

lights

Chapter

1

Check and

Every 3000 miles or 3 months, whichever comes first Change

the engine

oil

and

filter (all

1-5

Tune-up and routine maintenance service the rear wheel bearings

(see Section 33)*

models) (see Section

Check the brakes (see Section 34)' Check the parking brake operation (see Section 34) Drain and replace the engine coolant (see Section 35) Check and adjust necessary, the ignition timing (see

8)*

if

Section 36) Check the airbag system (see Section 37)

Every 7500 miles or 6 months,

whichever comes Check and clean the Rotate the

Check Check

first

battery (see Section 10)

Section

tires (see

Change the manual transaxle lubricant (see Section 38)' Change the differential lubricant (1982 automatic transaxle 1

models only) (see Section 39)* Change the automatic transaxle fluid and filter (see Section Adjust the automatic transaxle bands (3-speed models

1)

the manual transaxle lubricant level (see Section 12) the differential lubricant level (1983 and earlier

only) (see Section 41)*

models only) (see Section 13) Add combustion chamber conditioner to the engine (Canadian leaded fuel models only) (see Section 14)

Check the Check the

driveaxle boots (see Section 42)"

evaporative emission system hoses and

fuel

connections (see Section 43)

Check the operation

Every 15,000 miles or 12 months, whichever comes first

of the seatbelts (see Section 44)

Every 50,000 miles or 60 months,

whichever comes Check and

adjust

if

Replace the oxygen sensor (Chapter

6)*

This item

driving In

Every 25,000 miles or 18 months, whichever comes first

distributor

Replace the Replace the

Check the

cap and

air filter

Idling for

extended periods and/or low-speed operation

outside temperatures remain below freezing and

heavy

trips are less city traffic

than four miles

where outside temperatures

the vehicle in question

tions,

perform

asterisk

regularly

(')

all

is

operated under "severe" condi-

maintenance procedures marked with an

at the following intervals:

element (see Section 21)*

PCV valve (see Section 22) EGR system components for

Every 1,000 miles proper operation

(see Section 23)

Change the engine

Every 30,000 miles or 24 months, whichever comes first Check the condition

.

reach 90-degrees F or higher If

rotor (see Section 19)

.

most

trailer

and spark

drivebelts (see Section 20)

.

if

Towing a

In

of the primary ignition wires

affected by "severe" operation conditions

done

most

plug wires (see Section 19)

Check the Check the

is

is

dusty areas

When

Replace the fuel filter (see Section 17) Replace the spark plugs (see Section 18)

Check the condition

6)

balljoints (see *

1

first

necessary, the valve clearance (2.6L

engine only) (see Section 15) Lubricate the front suspension and steering Section

40)'

of

all

oil

and

filter

(turbo

models

only)

Every 2,000 miles

vacuum hoses and connections

Change the engine oil and filter (non-turbo models only) Check the driveaxle, suspension and steering boots

(see Section 24)

Check the operation of the carburetor choke (see Section 25) Check the carburetor/fuel injection throttle body mounting

Check the brakes

nut/bolt torque (see Section 26)

Check the operation

of the

heated

Every 9,000 miles

air

intake system (see

Service the rear wheel bearings

Section 27)

Check the

fuel

damage

system hoses and connections

for leaks

and

Every 15,000 miles

(see Section 28)

Check the cooling system hoses and connections

for leaks

and damage (see Section 29) Check the exhaust pipes and hangers (see Section 30) Check for freeplay in the steering linkage and balljoints (see Section 31) Lubricate the steering shaft seal (see Section 32)

Replace the

air filter

element

Lubricate the tie-rod ends

Change

the automatic transaxle

fluid

and

filter

Adjust the automatic transaxle bands

Change the manual magnet

transaxle lubricant and clean the pan

1

1-6

Chapter

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

Check and adjust

Tune-up general information

3

The term "tune-up" is used in this manual to represent a combination of individual operations rather than

one

specific

procedure. If,

from the time the vehicle

is

minimized. likely

be times when

due

than not, however, there will the engine is running poorly

to lack of regular maintenance. This

even more

is

a used vehicle, which hasn't received Tegular and frequent maintenance checks, is purchased. In such cases, an engine tune-up will be needed outside of likely

Check the air filter (see Section 21) Check the PCV valve (see Section 22) Check all underhood hoses (see Section 24) Check the cooling system (see Section 29) Check and adjust the ignition timing (see Section 36)

new, the

routine maintenance schedule is followed closely and frequent checks are made of fluid levels and high wear items, as suggested throughout this manual, the engine will be kept in relatively good running condition and the need for additional work will be

More

the drivebelts (see Sec-

tion 20)

if

first

step

in

any

tune-up

or

Major tune-up items listed under Minor tune-up plus Adjust the valves (2.6L engine only) (Sec-

All

.

.

.

tion 15)

Replace the air filter (see Section 21) Replace the distributor cap and rotor (see Section 19)

Replace the spark plug wires (see Section 18) Check the EGR system (see Section 23) Check the fuel system (see Section 28) Check the ignition system (see Chapter 5) Check the charging system (see Chapter 5)

is a cylinder compression compression check (see Chapter 2, Part C) will help determine the condition of internal engine components and should be used as a guide for tune-up and repair procedures. For instance, if a compression check indicates serious internal engine wear, a conventional tune-up will not improve the performance of the engine and would be a waste of time and money. Because of its importance, the compression check should be done by someone with the right equipment and the knowledge to use it

4

Fluid level

checks

A

Note: The following are

fluid level

checks

to

be done on a 250 mile or weekly basis. Additional fluid level checks can be found in specific maintenance procedures which follow.

Regardless of the

intervals,

develop

the habit of checking under the vehicle periodically for evidence of fluid leaks.

Fluids are an essential part of the lubri-

1

and window washer

cation, cooling, brake

Because

systems.

the

become depleted

gradually

fluids

and/or

contaminated

properly.

during normal operation of the vehicle, they

The following procedures are those most often needed to bring a generally poor running engine back into a proper state of

must

Recommended

tune:

to

Minor tune-up

fluid levels are

be

replenished

periodically.

lubricants

and

See

fluids at the

beginning of this Chapter before adding

fluid

any of the following components. Note: The vehicle must be on level ground when

all

engine related

Clean, inspect

and

fluids (see

Section 4)

test the battery (see

Engine

Section 10) Replace the spark plugs (see Section 18) Inspect the distributor cap and rotor (see

Refer to

Section 19) Inspect the spark plug

(radiator)

and

coil wires (see

Section 19)

checked immediately

oil is

the vehicle,

some

of the

after driving

remain

in

the

upper engine components, resulting inaccurate reading on the dipstick.

in

an

4

illus-

Pull

oil will

the dipstick out of the tube (see

and wipe all the oil off the end with a clean rag or paper towel. Insert the clean dipstick all the way back into the tube, then pull it out again. Note the oil level at the end of the dipstick. Add oil as necessary to keep the level at the Full mark (see illustration). 5 Oil is added to the engine after removing a cap located on the valve cover (see illustration). The cap will be marked "Engine oil" or something similar. A funnel may help reduce spills as the oil is poured in. 6 Don't allow the level to drop below the

Add mark

or engine

damage may

checked.

The engine

2

dipstick

which

oil is

side of

4.4b and 4.5

checked with a located on the front the engine block. The level is

dipstick extends through a tube oil

pan

at the

bottom

oil oil

-

it

occur.

may

result in

and

into the

Checking the oil level is an important preventive maintenance step. A consistently low oil level indicates oil leakage through damaged seals, defective gaskets or past worn rings or valve guides. If the oil looks color or has water droplets

milky

in

block

may be

in

4.4a The engine oil dipstick is located on the front (radiator side) of the engine

Full

the

Engine coolant Refer to illustrations 4.8 and

4.

12

Warning: Do not allow antifreeze to come in contact with your skin or painted surfaces of the vehicle. Flush contaminated areas

they're attracted

by

its

sweet

smell. Ingestion

amount of coolant can be fatal! Wipe up garage floor and drip pan spills immediately. Keep antifreeze containers covered and repair cooling system leaks as of even a small

they're noticed.

level

raise the level

it,

cracked. The engine should be

checked immediately. The condition of the oil should also be checked. Each time you check the oil level, slide your thumb and index finger up the dipstick before wiping off the oil. If you see small dirt or metal particles clinging to the dipstick, the oil should be changed (see Section 8).

soon as

of the engine.

should be between the marks on the dipstick - if it isn't, add enough oil to bring the level up to or near the Full mark (it takes one quart to oil

ADD and

oil

leaks or seal failures.

1 4.4b The

On

the engine by

immediately with plenty of water. Don't store new coolant or leave old coolant lying around where it's accessible to children or pets -

oil

illustrations 4.4a,

adding too much fouled spark plugs,

overfill

7

(every 250 miles or weekly)

running engine

Check

the

the other hand, don't

diagnostic procedure to help correct a poor

check.

If

tration)

the regular routine maintenance intervals.

The

The oil level should be checked before 3 the vehicle has been driven, or about 15 minutes after the engine has been shut off.

from the Add to

Full

mark)

l^k. 4.5 Turn the oil filler cap counterclockwise to remove

it

Chapter

Make

4.12 Flip up the cap to add more coolant to the reservoir

sure the coolant level in the between the MIN and MAX marks - if it's below the MIN mark, add more coolant mixture or water 4.8

reservoir

is

All vehicles covered by this manual are equipped with a pressurized coolant recovery system, which makes coolant level checks

8

A

very easy.

coolant reservoir attached to the

inner fender panel or the radiator itself

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

is

connected by a hose to the radiator filler neck (see illustration). As the engine warms up, some coolant escapes through a valve in the radiator cap and travels through the hose into the reservoir. As the engine cools, the coolant is automatically drawn back into the cooling system to maintain the correct level.

noted, have the radiator

filler

cap pressure

tested by a service station.

Windshield washer fluid Refer to

illustration 4.

15

15 The fluid for the windshield washer system is stored in a plastic reservoir. The level inside each reservoir should be maintained about one inch below the filler cap. The reservoir is accessible after opening the hood (see illustration). 16 In milder climates, plain water can be used in the reservoir, but should be kept no

1-7

The windshield washer reservoir on most models is mounted in the cavity between the windshield and the engine compartment

4.15

installed, the caps on top of the battery should be removed periodically to check for a low electrolyte level. This check is more critical during warm summer months. 19 Remove each of the caps and add distilled water to bring the level in each cell to

the

split ring in

the

opening (see

filler

illus-

tration).

20

At the

same

time the battery water level

checked, the overall condition of the battery and related components should be noted. See Section 10 for complete battery check and maintenance procedures. is

it

The coolant

9

when

should be checked at normal operating

level

the engine

is

temperature. Simply note the reservoir

-

fluid level in

should be at or near the

it

the

Max

mark.

The coolant

can also be checked by removing the radiator cap. Warning: Don't remove the cap to check the coolant level when the engine is warm! Wait until the engine has cooled, then wrap a thick cloth around the cap and turn it to the first stop. If any steam escapes from the cap, allow the engine to cool further, then remove the cap and check the level in the radiator. 10

11

If

level

only a small

amount

of coolant is

more than two-thirds expansion climates, antifreeze,

if

allow

to

full

the water freezes.

In

for

colder

use windshield washer system available at any auto parts store,

to lower the freezing point of the fluid. Mix the

antifreeze with water

in

accordance with the

manufacturer's directions on the container. Caution: Don't use cooling system antifreeze - it'll damage the vehicle's paint. To help prevent icing in cold weather, warm the windshield with the defroster before using the washer.

Battery electrolyte

required to bring the system up to the proper

Refer to

regular water can be used. However, to maintain the proper antifreeze/water mixture

precautions must be or servicing a battery. Hydrogen gas, which is highly flammable, is produced in the cells, so keep lighted tobacco, open flames, bare light bulbs and sparks away from the battery. The

level,

in

to

the system, both should be mixed together replenish a low level. High-quality

be mixed with the proportion specified on the

antifreeze/coolant should

water

in

Coolant

added

be

should

reservoir after removing the

the

to

cap (see

illus-

tration).

13

As the coolant

followed

level is

checked, note the It should be

condition of the coolant as well.

relatively clear. If it's brown or rust colored, the system should be drained, flushed and

17

radiator, hoses,

water

pump

filler

the system.

Check

the

cap, drain plugs and

(see Section 35).

If

no leaks are

located on

firewall.

22 fluid,

Before removing the cap(s) to check the use a rag to clean all dirt off the top of

any foreign matter enters the master cylinder when the caps are removed, blockage in the brake system lines can occur. Also, make sure all painted surfaces around the master cylinder are covered, since brake fluid will ruin paint. The level should be maintained at the bottom of the rings in the the reservoir.

If

is

dilute sulfuric

direct short.

free battery require

in

is

which can burn skin and cause serious if splashed in your eyes (wear safety glasses). It'll also ruin clothes and painted surfaces. Remove all metal jewelry which could contact the positive battery terminal and a grounded metal source, causing a

the coolant level drops consistently, a leak

The brake master cylinder

the driver's side of the engine compartment

injury

14

may be

4.22

acid,

(see Section 35).

there

21

fluid illustration

when checking

refilled If

19

Refer to

Certain

electrolyte inside the battery

antifreeze container.

12

illustration 4.

Warning:

Brake

Vehicles equipped with a maintenance-

battery case

caps 18

for If

is

no maintenance - the sealed and has no removable

maintenance-type

Remove

water

adding water. a

4.19

battery

is

the

cell

caps

level in the battery

low add

distilled

check the the level is

to

- if

water only

1-8

Chapter

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

5

and tire pressure checks (every 250 miles or weekly)

Tire

Refer to illustrations 5.2, 5.3, 5.4a, 5.4b and 5.8 1

4.22

The brake

fluid reservoir

should be

kept at or near the bottom of the rings inside the reservoir filler neck

Use a

tread depth indicator to monitor tire wear - they are available at auto parts stores and service stations and cost very little 5.2

tire

Periodic inspection of the tires

neck of the reservoir (there are actually two separate reservoirs, so be sure to check both

seen

in the fluid, the system should be dismantled, cleaned and refilled with fresh

3

of them) (see illustration).

fluid.

illustration).

23

If

additional fluid

is

necessary to bring

the level up, carefully pour new, clean brake fluid into

to

spill

the master cylinder.

Be

careful not

the fluid on painted surfaces.

the specified fluid

is

Be

sure

used; mixing different

types of brake fluid can cause damage to the system. See Recommended lubricants and fluids at the beginning of this Chapter or your owner's manual. 24 At this time the fluid and the master cylinder can be inspected for contamination. Normally the brake hydraulic system won't need periodic draining and refilling, but if rust deposits, dirt particles or water droplets are

25 26

illustration).

Reinstall the

Note any abnormal tread wear (see Tread pattern irregularities such as cupping, flat spots and more wear on one

The brake

side than the other are indications of front

master cylinder caps. the master cylinder will drop slightly as the brake shoes or pads at each wheel wear down during normal operation. If the master cylinder requires repeated replenishing to keep the level up, it's an indication of leaks in the brake system which should be corrected immediately. Check all brake lines and connections, along with the wheel cylinders and calipers (see Chapter 9 for more information). 27 If you discover one or both reservoirs empty or nearly empty, the brake system should be bled (see Chapter 9). fluid in

end alignment and/or balance problems. vehicle to a tire

shop or service

station to

correct the problem.

4

Look closely

embedded will

hold

down

air

for cuts,

nails or tacks.

punctures and

Sometimes a

very slowly after a nail has

embedded

a slow leak persists, check the valve stem core to make sure it's tight (see illustration). Examine the tread for an object that may have embedded itself in itself in

the tread.

If

Cupping may be caused by: • Underinflation and/or mechanical irregularities such as out-of-balance condition of wheel and/or tire, and bent or damaged wheel. • Loose or worn steering tie-rod or steering idler arm. Loose, damaged or worn front

suspension parts.

BB FEATHERING DUE TO MISALIGNMENT

INCORRECT TOE-IN 5.3 This chart will help

you determine the condition of the

tires,

the probable cause(s) of abnormal wear and the corrective

action necessary

tire

pressure for a short time or leak

CUPPING

OR EXTREME CAMBER

If

any of these conditions are noted, take the

OVERINFLATION

UNDERINFLATION

•

may

spare you the inconvenience of being stranded with a flat tire. It can also provide you with vital information regarding possible problems in the steering and suspension systems before major damage occurs. 2 The original tires on this vehicle are equipped with 1/2-inch wide bands that will appear when tread depth reaches 1/16-inch (when the tires are worn out). Tread wear can be monitored with a simple, inexpensive device known as a tread depth indicator (see

Chapter

5.4a If a tire loses air on a steady basis, check the valve core first to make sure it's snug (special inexpensive wrenches are

commonly

the

tire

available at auto parts stores)

or for a "plug" that

may have begun

to

punctures are repaired with a plug that's installed in a puncture). If a leak (radial

tire

puncture is suspected, it can be easily by spraying a solution of soapy water onto the puncture area (see illustration). The soapy solution will bubble if there's a leak. Unless the puncture is unusually large, a tire shop or service station can usually repair the verified

Carefully inspect the inner sidewall of

5

each tire for evidence of brake fluid leakage. If you see any, inspect the brakes immediately.

Correct air pressure adds miles to the lifespan of the tires, improves mileage and

6

enhances overall ride quality. Tire pressure cannot be accurately estimated by looking at a tire, especially if it's a radial. A tire pressure gauge is essential. Keep an accurate gauge in the vehicle. The pressure gauges attached to the nozzles of air hoses at gas stations are often inaccurate.

Always check

5.4b If the valve core is tight, raise the corner of the vehicle with the low tire and spray a soapy water solution onto the tread as the tire is turned slowly - leaks will cause small bubbles to appear

Note the reading on the gauge and

tration).

compare the

figure to the

recommended

tire

pressure shown on the placard on the driver's side door pillar. Be sure to reinstall the valve cap to keep dirt and moisture out of the valve stem mechanism. Check all four tires and, if necessary, add enough air to bring them up to the recommended

tires are cold.

vehicle has not

Cold,

in this

case,

when means

been driven over a mile

three hours preceding a

tire

in

the the the

pressure check.

A pressure rise of four to eight pounds uncommon once the tires are warm.

is

not

Unscrew the valve cap protruding from wheel or hubcap and push the gauge firmly onto the valve stem (see illus-

8 the

5.8 To extend the life of the tires, check the air pressure at least once a week with

an accurate gauge (don't forget the spare!)

illustration) and wipe all the fluid from the end with a clean rag. 4 Push the dipstick back into the transaxle until the cap seats completely. Remove the dipstick again and note the fluid on the end. The level should be in the area marked Hot (between the two upper holes in the dipstick)

(see

illustration).

If

the

fluid

pressure.

(temperature about 100-degrees

Don't forget to keep the spare tire inflated to the specified pressure (refer to your owner's manual or the tire sidewall). Note that the pressure recommended for the compact spare is higher than for the tires on

should be

the vehicle.

the area

in

5

If

is

dipstick,

raise the level to

Do

6 the

illustrations 6.3

and

6.4

The fluid inside the transaxle should be normal operating temperature to get an accurate reading on the dipstick. This is done by driving the vehicle for several miles, making frequent starts and stops to allow the at

transaxle to shift through

all

not

spills.

the transaxle. Never allow go above the upper hole on could cause internal transaxle

overfill

fluid level to - it

damage. The best way to prevent overfilling is to add fluid a little at a time, driving the vehicle and checking the level between additions.

7

Use only the transaxle

fluid

specified by

the manufacturer. This information can be

found

gears.

Park the vehicle on a level surface, place the gear selector lever in Park and leave the engine running.

should

directly into the dipstick hole, using

the dipstick

Refer to

the level

F),

marked Warm (between

at or below the Add add enough fluid to within the marks indicated

the fluid level

mark on the

a funnel to prevent

Automatic transaxle fluid level check (every 250 miles or weekly)

hot

the two lower holes).

be added

6

isn't

for the appropriate temperature. Fluid

1

pressure

tire

1-9

Tune-up and routine maintenance

9

tire.

7

1

fluids

the

in

Recommended

Section

at

the

lubricants

beginning

of

and this

2

Remove

3

the transaxle dipstick

(see

Chapter.

The condition of the checked along with the 8

fluid

should also be If it's a dark

level.

reddish-brown color, or if it smells burned, it should be changed. If you're in doubt about the condition of the fluid, purchase some new fluid and compare the two for color and smell.

7

Power

steering fluid level check

(every 250 miles or weekly) Refer to

illustrations 7.2a, 7.2b, 7.5a

and

7.5b 1

The automatic transaxle fluid is checked by removing the dipstick on the transaxle case - don't confuse it with the 6.3

engine

oil

dipstick

Check the

with the transaxle at normal operating temperature - the level should be kept in the HOT range (between the two upper holes or marks) 6.4

fluid

Unlike

manual steering,

the

power

steering system relies on fluid which may,

over a period of time, require replenishing. 2 The reservoir for the power steering

pump

is

located on the rear side of the

1-10

Chapter

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

6

If

additional fluid

required, pour the

is

specified type directly into the reservoir using

a funnel to prevent

spills.

the reservoir requires frequent fluid additions, all power steering hoses, hose connections, the power steering pump and 7

If

the steering box should be carefully checked for leaks.

Engine oil and filter change (every 3000 miles or 3 months)

8 7.2a

The power steering

fluid reservoir is

located at the front of the engine, near the passenger's side of the firewall

7.2b

On V6 engines, the power steering located at the front of the engine near the firewall

reservoir dipstick

is

and 8. 19 1 Frequent oil changes are the most important preventive maintenance procedures that can be done by the home

Refer to

illustrations 8.3, 8.9, 8.

14

mechanic. When engine oil ages, it gets diluted and contaminated, which ultimately leads to premature engine wear. 2 Although some sources recommend oil filter changes every other oil change, a new filter should be installed every time the oil is changed. Gather together all necessary tools and 3 materials before beginning this procedure (see illustration). Note: To avoid rounding off the corners of the drain plug, use a sixpoint socket.

you should have plenty of mop up any spills. Access to the underside of the vehicle is greatly improved if it can be lifted on a hoist, driven onto ramps or supported by jackstands. Warning: Don't work under a vehicle that is supported only by a jack! If this is your first oil change on the 5 vehicle, crawl underneath it and familiarize 4

The power steering dipstick on fourcylinder models is marked on both sides for checking the fluid cold (as shown) or hot

The V6 power steering dipstick is marked so the fluid can be checked hot or cold - keep the level between the two holes

engine on the passenger's side of the engine compartment (see illustrations). The power steering fluid level can be 3 checked with the engine cold. 4 With the engine off, use a rag to clean the reservoir cap and the area around the cap. This will help prevent foreign material from falling into the reservoir when the cap is removed.

5 Turn and pull out the reservoir cap, which has a dipstick attached to it. Remove the fluid at the bottom of the dipstick with a clean rag. Reinstall the cap to get a fluid level reading. Remove the cap again and note the fluid level. It should be at the Full Cold mark on the dipstick (see illustrations). If the engine is warm, the level can be checked on

7.5a

7.5b

addition,

yourself with the locations of the

drain

Drain pan - It should be fairly shallow in depth, but wide to prevent spills Rubber gloves - When removing the drain plug and filter, you will get oil on your hands (the gloves will prevent burns)

Chapter.

the other side of the dipstick.

plug

is tight,

Sometimes the oil drain and a long breaker bar is -

with the breaker

bar or a ratchet (must fit

be

the drain plug

-

the correct six-point

preferred) Filter

wrench

-

This

is

a metal band-

type wrench, which requires clearance

around the Filter

filter

wrench

bottom of he

-

to

be

effective

This type

filter

fits

on the

and can be turned

with a ratchet or breaker bar (differentsize

wrenches are available

types of

for different

oil

With the engine

7

and

filter

oil

and more

drain better

it),

warm (warm

built-up sludge

oil will

will

be

the vehicle and

raise

support it securely on jackstands. They should be placed under the portions of the body designated as hoisting and jacking points (see Jacking and towing at the front of this

manual).

Move

8

all

necessary

newspapers under the pan under the drain

drain

that the

with

oil will initially

some

force,

tools,

rags and

vehicle. Place the plug.

Keep

in

mind

flow from the engine

so position the pan accord-

ingly.

Being careful not to touch any of the hot exhaust components, use the breaker bar and socket to remove the drain plug near the 9

filters)

These tools are required when changing the engine

oil filter.

removed with

needed to loosen it Socket - To be used size to

plug and the

oil

Since the engine and exhaust components will be warm during the actual work, it's a good idea to figure out any potential problems beforehand. 6 Allow the engine to warm up to normal operating temperature. If oil or tools are needed, use the warm-up time to gather everything necessary for the job. The correct type of oil to buy for your application can be found in the Recommended lubricants and fluids section at the beginning of this

Breaker bar

8.3

In

clean rags and newspapers handy to

Chapter

To avoid rounding

8.9

use

off the corners,

the correct size box-end wrench or a sixpoint socket to remove the engine oil drain plug

bottom of the oil pan (see illustration). Depending on how hot the oil is, you may want to wear gloves while unscrewing the plug the

10

final

few

Allow the

oil

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

8.14 The oil and normally for

removal

the

to drain into the pan.

may

It

-

filter!

the drain pan. Lower the vehicle off

oil in

9

the jackstands.

Move

22 23

If

the

to the engine

compartment and

cap on the engine. opening is obstructed, use a

oil filler filler

when adding

be necessary to move the pan further under the engine as the oil flow reduces to a trickle. 11 After all the oil has drained, clean the plug thoroughly with a rag. Small metal particles may cling to it and would immediately contaminate the new oil. 12 Clean the area around the oil parj opening and reinstall the plug. Tighten it

Pour the specified amount of new oil into the engine. Wait a few minutes to allow the oil to drain to the pan, then check the level on the dipstick (see Section 4 if necessary). If the oil level is at or above the Add mark, start the engine and allow the new

securely.

25

13

Move

the

oil filter.

14

Now

oil

band-type

filter

wrenches may

canister, but don't worry

Sometimes the

15

distort the

about

the

-

it

be discarded anyway.

filter will

on so

oil filter is

tight

it

cannot be loosened, or it's positioned in an area inaccessible with a conventional filter wrench. Other type of tools, which fit over the end of the filter and turned with a ratchet/breaker bar, are available and may be better suited for removing the filter. If the filter is extremely tight, position the filter wrench near the threaded end of the filter, close to

Completely unscrew the old

16 the

it's full

filter

to circulate.

Run the engine

then shut drain plug

it

off.

about a minute, Immediately look under the for only

of

oil.

Empty the

old

filter. oil

Be

inside

and around the

oil filter.

oil If

pan

either

one is leaking, tighten with a bit more force. 26 With the new oil circulated and the filter now completely full, recheck the level on the dipstick. If necessary, add enough oil to bring the level to the Full mark on the dipstick. 27 During the first few trips after an oil change, make it a point to check for leaks and keep a close watch on the oil level. 28 The old oil drained from the engine cannot be reused in its present state and should be disposed of. Oil reclamation centers, auto repair shops and gas stations

illustrations 9.4 and 9.5 The windshield wiper blade elements should be checked periodically for cracks 1

and 2

will

normally accept the

(plastic

it

oil.

After the

should be drained

bottles

with

oil

has

into containers

screw-on tops are

preferred) for transport to a disposal site.

deterioration.

To gain access

on the

to the wiper blades, turn

ignition switch

and cycle the wipers

to

a position on the windshield where the work

can be performed, then turn off the ignition. Lift the wiper blade assembly away from 3 the glass.

4 Press the release button and slide the wiper off the pin (see illustration) 5

Use needle-nose

pliers to

squeeze the

tabs, then slide the element out of the frame

(see illustration). 6

Slide the

until

it

new element

into the

frame

locks.

7

Installation is the reverse of removal.

10

Battery check, maintenance and charging (Every 7500 miles or

.

cooled,

the engine. careful,

oil

Wiper blade inspection and replacement (every 7,500 miles or 6 months)

Refer to

oil.

24

vehicle and check for leaks at the

use the filter wrench to loosen the (see illustration). Chain or metal

filter

filter

the drain pan into position under

funnel

8.19 Lubricate the oil filter gasket with clean engine oil before installing the filter on the engine

filter is

will

tighten the

locate the

turns.

usually on very tight require a special wrench DO NOT use the wrench to

1-11

6 months) Refer to 10.7a 1

illustrations 10.1, 10.5, 10.6a, 10.6b.

and 10.7b

A

program

routine

preventive maintenance your vehicle is the

for the battery in

into the drain pan.

Compare the old filter with the new one make sure they're identical. 18 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt

17 to

and sludge from the area where the oil filter mounts on the engine. Check the old filter to

make

sure the rubber gasket

isn't

stuck to

the engine mounting surface.

19 Apply a light coat of oil to the rubber gasket on the new oil filter (see illustration). 20 Attach the new filter to the engine following the tightening directions printed

the

filter

canister or packing box.

Most

on

filter

manufacturers recommend against using a filter

wrench

due to the possibility of damaging the canister. Remove all tools and materials from

overtightening and 21

under the vehicle, being careful not to

spill

9.4

Use a small screwdriver to press the release lever, then slide the wiper assembly

arm in the shown

off the

direction

9.5

Squeeze in on the tabs, then slide the element out of the wiper assembly

_

1-12

Chapter 1

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

Face shield/safety goggles

-

When

removing corrosion with a brush, the

(lU

acidic particles can easily

W*B

D

H|\

i

^

fly

up

into

your eyes 2 Rubber gloves

- Another safety item to consider when servicing the battery remember that's acid inside the battery! 3 Battery terminal/cable cleaner • This wire brush cleaning tool will remove all traces of corrosion from the battery and cable

4

f^^M^fl^^l

wBmM^

Treated felt washers - Placing one of these on each terminal, directly under the cable end, will help prevent corrosion (be sure to get the correct type for side-terminal batteries)

5 Baking soda - A solution of baking soda and water can be used to

t^M

A layer of this on

battery terminal bolts

fc©J

10.1

-

will

the

help prevent

corrosion

\kn

0L. 1 w™

:

:*^^S

A

t

f-

&r'

I

Never ingest

i

On

tSmLt later

models the battery

secured by a clamp at the base sure the nut

is tight

-

10.6a Battery terminal corrosion usually

is

make

appears as

light, fluffy

powder

(arrow)

only

way to ensure quick and reliable starts. But before performing any battery maintenance, make sure that you have the proper equipment necessary to work safely around

should be taken whenever battery maintenance is performed. Before servicing the battery, always turn the engine and all accessories off and disconnect the cable from the

the battery (see illustration).

negative terminal of the battery.

2

There are also several precautions that

Removing the cable from a battery post with a wrench - sometimes special battery pliers are required for this procedure if corrosion has caused deterioration of the nut hex (always remove the ground cable first and hook it up last!) 10.6b

Wear

protective

safety

battery.

Keep

Note the external condition of the If the positive terminal and cable clamp on your vehicle's battery is equipped battery.

make sure that it's not torn or damaged. It should completely cover the terminal. Look for any corroded or loose connections, cracks in the case or with a rubber protector,

illus-

check the entire length of each cable for cracks and frayed conductors. If corrosion, which looks like white, fluffy 6 deposits (see illustration) is evident, particu-

sure that the solution doesn't get into

battery.

When

cleaning

the

cables,

and battery top, wear safety goggles and rubber gloves to prevent any solution from coming in contact with your terminals

^

10.5

to get

it

5

the

v

L

it.

when working near the children away from the battery. glasses

make

^^_jM±

not allow

around the terminals, the battery should be removed for cleaning. Loosen the cable clamp nuts with a wrench, being careful to remove the negative cable first, and slide them off the terminals (see illustration). Then disconnect the hold-down clamp nuts, remove the clamp and lift the battery from the engine compartment. 7 Clean the cable clamps thoroughly with a battery brush or a terminal cleaner and a solution of warm water and baking soda (see illustration). Wash the terminals and the top of the battery case with the same solution but

—

T

Do

your eyes, on your skin on your clothes.

larly

jp—-^,.

SB

in

cover or loose hold-down clamps (see

Tools and materials required for battery maintenance

^

corrosive sulfuric acid.

tration). Also

neutralize corrosion

6 Petroleum jelly

which is both flammable and explosive. Never create a spark, smoke or light a match around the battery. Always charge the battery in a ventilated area. 4 Electrolyte contains poisonous and

3

The battery produces hydrogen gas,

10.7a When cleaning the cable clamps, all corrosion must be removed (the inside of the clamp is tapered to match the taper on the post, so don't remove too

much

material)

eyes or hands. Wear old clothes too - even diluted, sulfuric acid splashed onto clothes will burn holes in them. If the terminals have been extensively corroded, clean them up with a terminal cleaner (see illustration). Thoroughly wash all cleaned areas with plain water.

Before reinstalling the battery in the engine compartment, inspect the plastic 8

10.7b Regardless of the type of tool used on the battery posts, a clean, shiny surface should be the result

Chapter dirty or covered with and clean it in the same solution of warm water and baking soda. Inspect the metal brackets which support the carrier to make sure that they are not covered

battery carrier.

corrosion,

it's

If

remove

with corrosion.

corrosion

If

it

they are,

wash them

off.

Further information on the battery and

17

jump

starting

Refer to

battery back into the engine compartment.

1

sure that no parts or wires are laying on

the carrier during installation of the battery.

10

a pair of specially treated

Install

felt

washers around the terminals (available

at

auto parts stores), then coat the terminals and the cable clamps with petroleum jelly or

OO

nuts can crack the battery case.

should be rotated

the

at

whenever uneven wear is noticed. Since the vehicle will be raised and the tires removed anyway, this is a good time to check the brakes (see Section

Read over the appropriate other work will be done at the same

(see Section 33).

Section

if

The

depends

pattern

rotation

whether or not the spare

is

included

vehicle

12 Remove all of the cell caps (if equipped) and cover the holes with a clean cloth to

parking brake as stated.

sure the

tires

prevent spattering electrolyte. Disconnect the

negative battery cable and hook the battery

rolling.

charger leads to the battery posts (positive to

4

positive, negative to negative), then plug in

raised at the

sure

it

is

set at 12 volts

if it

a

come

Use only the specified

- see Recommended lubncants and fluids at the beginning of this

Chapter.

Push the plug securely back into the and check for

5

leaks around the plug.

the vehicle

5

it

onto jackstands.

to

is

safely supported.

After the tire rotation, tire

check and adjust

pressures as necessary and be sure

check wheel

available inexpensively from auto parts stores

follow the instructions that

Caution:

transaxle lubricant

Always use four jackstands and make sure

hydrometer every hour during the last few hours of the charging cycle. Hydrometers are -

lubricant into the plug hole to restore the level.

a hoist or by jacking up each corner of the

12

with

time. This can

The recommended tire rotation patter for these models

vehicle and lowering

measure

gravity

same

11.2

transaxle. Drive the vehicle

the

specific

be be done on

Preferably, the entire vehicle should

has a selector switch. If you're using a charger with a rate 13 higher than two amps, check the battery regularly during charging to make sure it doesn't overheat. If you're using a trickle charger, you can safely let the battery charge overnight after you've checked it regularly for the first couple of hours. 14 If the battery has removable cell caps, the

H-AJHAYNESI

the

in

are blocked to prevent the vehicle from

Make

RADIAL TIRE ROTATION

on

and changing a tire; however, if the brakes are to be checked, don't apply the

Make

RR

LR

rotation (see illustration). 3 See the information in Jacking and towing at the front of this manual for the proper procedures to follow when raising the

Charging

the charger.

oo

34) and/or repack the rear wheel bearings

2

Tighten the nuts only enough to hold the battery firmly in place. Overtightening these

tires

specified intervals and

careful to install the negative cable last.

the hold-down clamp and nuts.

RF

LF

illustration 11.2

The

time.

Install

Chapter 5 and

(every 7500 miles or 6 months)

grease to prevent further corrosion. In-stall the cable clamps and tighten the nuts, being 11

in

manual.

Tire rotation

11

down to bare metal and spray them with a zinc-based primer (available in spray cans at auto paint and body supply stores). Reinstall the battery carrier and the 9 Make

can be found

at the front of this

If

extensive, sand the brackets

is

1-13

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

13

lug nut tightness.

Differential lubricant level

check

(1982 automatic transaxle models only) (every 7500 miles or 6 months)

Manual transaxle lubricant check (every 7500 miles or 6 months)

level

Refer to

illustration 13.2

On

these models the differential must be checked separately from the transaxle. Raise the vehicle and support 1

lubricant

it

with the

securely on jackstands.

hydrometer. Consider the battery charged there's no change in the specific gravity reading for two hours and the electrolyte in the cells is gassing (bubbling) freely. The specific gravity reading from each cell should be very close to the others. If not, the battery probably has a bad cell(s). 15 Some batteries with sealed tops have built-in hydrometers on the top that indicate the state of charge by the color displayed in the hydrometer window. Normally, a brightcolored hydrometer indicates a full charge and a dark hydrometer indicates the battery

Refer to

needs charging. Check the battery manufacturer's instructions to be sure you know what the colors mean. 16 If the battery has a sealed top and no built-in hydrometer, you can hook up a digital

the transaxle

when

still

voltmeter across the battery terminals to check the charge. A fully charged battery should read 12.6 volts or higher.

illustration 12.3

Manual transaxles don't have a dipstick. The lubricant level is checked by removing a rubber plug from the side of the transaxle 1

Check the

ease.

lubricant level with the

engine cold.

Locate the plug and use a rag to clean it the surrounding area. It may be necessary to remove the left inner fenderwell cover for access to the plug. 2

and

3

Pry the plug out with a small screwdriver

(see illustration)

If

lubricant immediately

starts leaking out, insert the plug -

the lubricant level

back

is all

lubricant doesn't leak out, completely

into

right

If

remove

the plug and use a finger to feel the lubricant level.

The

lubricant level should

be even with

the bottom of the plug hole.

4

If

the

transaxle

requires

additional

use a funnel with a rubber tube or a syringe to pour or squeeze the recommended lubricant,

12.3

Use a small screwdriver

rubber

fill

to pry the

plug out of the transaxle

4

1

1-14

Chapter

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

DIFFERENTIAL

COVER BOLTS \

13.2

On 1982 models with an automatic

transaxle, the differential lubricant

checked by removing the

2

Remove

fill

the the differential

fill

plug

plug (see

The

4

If

lubricant level should filler

be even with

hole.

is

low,

slight

drag as the

15.12

2).

The number one

and the camshaft should be facing away from the slightly)

rocker arms.

With the crankshaft

in this

position, the

checked and adjusted. Note: Some engines

conditioner application

(Canadian leaded fuel models only) (every 7500 miles or 6 months)

next to the intake valves which are actuated by extensions of the intake valve rocker arms). If

you're not sure whether or not the engine

equipped with jet

Chapter) must be sprayed into the carburetor or fuel injection throttle

body

the buildup of deposits

chamber and on the 2

Remove

inlet

hose.

3

With

in

to help prevent

the combustion

the carburetor or throttle body

the

engine

idling

at

operating temperature, the transaxle

normal in Park

or Neutral (manual) and the parking brake applied, spray a can of the specified conditioner into the carburetor of

(automatic)

fuel injection throttle

4

15

body opening.

Reattach the hose to the

air inlet.

Valve clearance check and adjustment (2.6L engine only) (every 15,000 miles or 12 months)

Refer to

illustrations 15.7

vicinity 1

and 15.12

when working

in

the

of the fan. at the specified intervals with

the engine at normal operating temperature.

2

Remove

Chapter

the

air

cleaner assembly (see

4).

Remove

the valve cover (see Chapter 2). Place the number one piston at Top Dead Center (TDC) on the compression

3

4

jet

illustration 15.7.

valve

-

if

equipped

-

(if the engine is not equipped with jet valves, loosen the intake adjusting screw two turns and proceed to Step 9). Make sure the intake

valve adjusting screw has been backed off two full turns, then loosen the locknut on the jet

Loosen the locknut on the exhaust valve

size feeler

gauge between the valve stem and

the adjusting screw. Carefully tighten the adjusting screw until you can feel a slight

drag on the feeler gauge as you withdraw it from between the stem and adjusting screw. Hold the adjusting screw with a screw12 driver (to keep it from turning) and tighten the locknut (see illustration). Recheck the clearance to make sure it hasn't changed. 13

Rotate the crankshaft to position each pistons at TDC on the

of the remaining

compression stroke (see Chapter 2) and adjust the valves for each cylinder. Only adjust the valves for the cylirider that's at

TDC. Always 1

Install

adjust the

jet

valve

first.

the valve cover and the

air

cleaner

assembly.

valve adjusting screw.

Turn the jet valve adjusting screw counterclockwise and insert the appropriate size feeler gauge (see this Chapter's Specifications) between the valve stem and adjusting screw. Carefully tighten the adjusting screw until you can feel a slight drag on the feeler gauge as you withdraw it from between the stem and adjusting screw (see illustration). Since the jet valve spring is relatively 8 weak, use special care not to force the jet valve open. Be particularly careful if the adjusting screw is hard to turn. Hold the adjusting screw with a screwdriver (to keep it from turning) and tighten the locknut.

Recheck the clearance

to

make

sure

it

hasn't

adjusting

screw. screw.

16

Chassis lubrication (every 15,000 miles or 12 months)

Refer to

illustrations 16.1

and

16.6

A

grease gun and a cartridge filled with the proper grease (see Recommended lubricants and fluids), graphite spray and an oil can filled with engine oil will be required to lubricate the chassis components (see illus1

tration).

Occasionally,

vehicles, plugs will

be

on

later

model

installed rather than

grease fittings. If so, grease fittings will have to be purchased and installed. Look under the vehicle and see if grease 2 fittings or plugs are installed. If there are

Carefully

tighten

the

remove them with a wrench and buy fittings which will thread into the component. A dealer parts department or auto parts store will be able to supply the correct fittings. Straight and angled fittings

Carefully

tighten

the

are available.

clearance. Insert the appropriate size feeler gauge between the intake valve stem and the

adjusting

The valve clearances must be checked

and adjusted

see

valves,

the

changed. 9 Next, check and adjust the intake valve

Warning: Disconnect the fan motor or negative battery cable

First adjust

is

7

valves.

1

counterclockwise and insert the appropriate

move up and down

are not equipped with jet valves (small valves

At the specified intervals, combustion

is

chain end of the engine) should be loose

6 1

the locknut

adjusting screw. Turn the adjusting screw

arms

Combustion chamber

chamber conditioner (see Recommended lubricants and fluids at thee beginning of this

move when

tightened, use a box-end wrench and have a good grip on the screwdriver

number one cylinder jet valve (if equipped), intake and exhaust clearances can be

14

To make sure the adjusting screw

doesn't

pulled

(closest to the timing

5

the plug

is

stroke (see Chapter

(able to

add the specified or pump and install with a syringe

the level

lubricant

gauge

cylinder rocker

the bottom of the

be a

between the jet valve adjusting screw and the valve stem

illustration).

3

15.7 There should feeler

is

adjusting screw until you can feel a slight drag as you withdraw it from between the

stem and adjusting screw. Hold the adjusting screw with a screw10 driver (to keep it from turning) and tighten the locknut. Recheck the clearance to make sure it hasn't changed.

plugs,

grease

For easier access under the vehicle, a jack and place jackstands it with under the portions of the body designated as

3

raise

hoisting and jacking points front and rear (see Jacking and towing at the front of this manual). Make sure it's securely supported

by the stands.

3

Chapter

1-15

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

Engine oil Light engine oil in a can like this can be used for door and hood hinges Graphite spray - Used to -

lubricate lock cylinders

Grease - Grease, in a vahety of types and weights, is available for use in a grease gun. Check the Specifications for your

requirements

Grease gun

-

A common

needed

Pump

16.6

grease gun, shown here with a detachable hose and nozzle, is

the grease into the balljoint the rubber seal is firm

fitting until

for chassis lubrication.

After use, clean

it

thoroughly

Caution: The electric cooling fan on some models can activate at any time, even when

16.1

Materials required for chassis and body lubrication

Before beginning, force a

4

the ignition switch is in the Off position. Disconnect the negative battery cable when working in the vicinity of the fan.

out of the nozzle to remove any

little

grease

12

The key lock cylinders can be lubricated

from the end of the gun. Wipe the nozzle clean with a

with spray-on graphite or silicone lubricant

rag.

1

5

dirt

With the grease gun and plenty of clean under the vehicle and begin lubri-

rags, crawl

which

is

available at auto parts stores.

Lubricate the door weatherstripping with

silicone spray. This will

reduce chafing and

6

Wipe

the suspension balljoint grease

clean and push the nozzle firmly over

it

(see illustration). Operate the lever on the grease gun to force grease into the component. The balljoints should be lubricated until the rubber seal is firm to the touch. Don't pump too much grease into the fitting as it could rupture the seal. For all other suspension and steering components, continue pumping grease into the fitting until it oozes out of the joint between the two components. If grease escapes around the grease gun nozzle, the fitting is clogged or the nozzle is not completely seated on the fitting.

and

Resecure the gun nozzle

try again.

If

to the fitting

necessary, replace the

fitting

new one. Wipe the excess grease from the 7 components and the grease fitting. Repeat with a

the procedure for the remaining

carburetor (see illustrations).

will

17

replacement (every miles or 18 months) 25,000 Fuel

Refer to

filter

illustrations 17.1a, 17.1b, 17.10a,

type

fire

is

extinguisher on hand.

fittings.

Slide back the clamps, pull the hoses off and remove the filter. On 2.6L engines it will be necessary to detach the mounting

bracket.

Push the hoses onto the new

5

install

Connect the

6

filter

and

the clamps. battery.

Fuel-injected models Depressurize the fuel system (see Chapter 4). The fuel filter is a disposable canister 8 type and is located in the fuel line under the 7

right rear of

Lubricate the sliding contact and pivot points of the manual transaxle shift linkage

the vehicle, adjacent to the fuel

tank.

9

TO CARBURETOR

with the specified grease. While you're under

the vehicle, clean and lubricate the parking brake cable along with the cable guides and

rags.

Place the rags under the filter to catch 3 any fuel that is spilled as the fuel line is disconnected. 4

extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don 't smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don 't work in a garage where a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water heater or clothes dryer) with a pilot light is present. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a Class

B

pliers to loosen and slide back the clamps, the correct replacement filter

and some clean

17.10b and 17.10c

Warning: Gasoline

need

fuel line

8

levers. This

1 The fuel filter is a disposable unit and is located between the fuel pump and the

This job is best done with the engine 2 cold (after sitting at least three hours). You

retard wear.

cating the components.

fitting

Carbureted models

it

TO

FUEt

Raise the rear of the vehicle and support securely on jackstands.

FUEL FILTER

TANK

can be done by smearing some and

of the chassis grease onto the cable

related parts with your fingers. Lubricate the

clutch adjuster and cable, as well as the cable positioner, with a thin film of multi-

purpose grease. Lower the vehicle 9

to the ground. 10 Open the hood and smear a little chassis grease on the hood latch mechanism. Have an assistant pull the hood release lever from inside the vehicle as you lubricate the cable at the latch. 11 Lubricate all the hinges (door, hood, etc.) with

them

in

the

recommended

lubricant to

proper working order.

keep

FUEL

17.1a 2.2L engine fuel

filter

PUMP

details

17.1b (arrow)

On is

2.6L engines, the fuel

filter

mounted near the carburetor

.

1-16

Chapter

1

On later models, use a small wrench push on the black plastic ring (arrow) and release the quick-disconnect fitting detach the hose from the fuel line first

Tune-up and routine maintenance

17.10a

17.10b

to

.

Detach the hoses. On later models this is accomplished by using a small wrench to push the black plastic rings on the quickdisconnect fittings (see illustrations). 11 Wrap a cloth around the fuel filter to catch the residual fuel (which may still be under slight pressure) and disconnect the hoses. It's a good idea to tie rags around your wrists to keep fuel from running down your arms. . 12 Remove the bracket mounting bolt and detach the filter from the vehicle; hold your finger over the outlet to keep the residual fuel from running out. 13 Place the new filter in position, install the mounting bolt and tighten it securely. If

damaged

install

new ones

new

filter.

14

followed by the hose at the filter

the

15

Insert the quick filter until

disconnect

they lock

Start the engine

in

17.10c

Remove

this bolt (arrow) to

the

detach

filter

and check

18

with an

carefully for

spark plugs. 3 The best approach when replacing the spark plugs is to purchase the new spark plugs beforehand, adjust them to the proper gap and then replace each plug one at a time. When buying the new spark plugs, be sure to obtain the correct plug for your specific engine. This information can be found on the Vehicle Emissions Control Information label located under the hood, in the factory owner's

Spark plug check and replacement (every every 25,000 miles or 18 months)

Refer to illustrations 18.2, 18.5a, 18.5b, 18.7, 18.9a, 18.9b and 18.11

Warning: Before beginning won\, disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent the electric cooling fan from coming on. 1 On four-cylinder models, the spark plugs are located on the front side of the engine, facing the radiator. On V6 models, the spark plugs are located on the front

© £S ^w

2

In

aluminum cylinder head, a torque wrench should be used for tightening the

fittings into

place.

leaks at the hose connections.

cylinder

*

©^

.

bank (by the radiator) and the rear bank (near the firewall). most cases the tools necessary for

cylinder

©

0^

©

or deteriorated,

along with the

.

.

10

the hoses are

.

spark plug replacement include a spark plug socket which fits onto a ratchet (this special socket will be padded inside to protect the porcelain insulators on the new plugs), various extensions and a feeler gauge to check and adjust the spark plug gap (see illustration). A special plug wire removal tool is available for separating the wire boot from the spark plug, but it isn't absolutely necessary. Since these engines are equipped

18.2 Tools required for changing

manual or

in

the Specifications at the front of

If differences exist between the purchase the spark plug type specified on the VECI label as it was printed

this

Chapter.

sources,

your specific engine. 4 Allow the engine to cool completely before attempting to remove any of the plugs. During this cooling off time, each of the new spark plugs can be inspected for defects and the gaps can be checked. The gap is checked by inserting the 5 proper thickness gauge between the electrodes at the tip of the plug (see illustration). The gap between the electrodes should be as specified on the VECI label in the engine compartment. The wire should touch each of the electrodes. If the gap is incorrect, use the adjuster on the thickness gauge body to bend the curved side for

electrode slightly until the proper gap is obtained (see illustration). Also, at this time

spark plugs

1

2

3 4

Spark plug socket - This will have special padding inside to protect the sparkplug's porcelain insulator Torque wrench - Although not mandatory, using this tool is the best way to ensure the plugs are tightened properly Ratchet - Standard hand tool to fit the spark plug socket

Depending on model and you may need special extensions and universal joints to reach one or more of the plugs Spark plug gap gauge - This gauge for checking the gap comes in a variety of styles. Make sure the gap for Extension

-

accessories,

5

your engine

is

included

18.5a Spark plug manufacturers

recommend using a wire-type gauge when checking the gap - if the wire does not slide between the electrodes with a slight drag, adjustment is required

18.5b To change the gap, bend the side electrode only, as indicated by the arrows, and be very careful not to crack or chip the porcelain insulator surrounding the center electrode

Chapter

on the spark plug wire boot and back-and-forth to remove it

18.7 Pull

twist

place. The

center one, use the adjuster to align the two.

to turn

Cover the

damage

front of the vehicle to prevent

to the paint.

plug wire from one spark plug. Pull only on the boot at the end of the wire; don't pull on

Use a

the wire.

the plug to use as a tool to thread

twisting motion to free the

boot and wire from the plug. A plug wire removal tool (mentioned earlier) should be used if available (see illustration). If compressed air is available, use it to 8 blow any dirt or foreign material away from the spark plug area. A common bicycle pump will also work. The idea here is to eliminate the possibility of material falling into the plug

turning

it

in

a counterclockwise direction (see

illustrations).

10

Compare

shown

in

the

accompanying photos

to get

an

indication of the overall running condition of

the engine.

Thread one of the new plugs

on the plug

to cross-thread in the hole

damaged

12

and

threads in

boot

Attach the plug wire to the

stripped easily.

It

may be a good idea

to slip a

the

on the

13 Repeat the above procedure for the remaining spark plugs, replacing them one at a time to prevent mixing up the spark plug wires.

19

Check

4

which

Spark plug wire, distributor cap and rotor check and replacement (every 25,000 miles or 18 months)

will

inside the boot for corrosion,

look like a white, crusty

powder

(don't mistake the white dielectric grease

used on some plug wire boots for corrosion). Now push the wire and boot back onto 5 the end of the spark plug. It should be a tight fit on the plug end. If not, remove the wire and use a pair of pliers to carefully crimp the metal connector inside the wire boot until the fit

is

snug.

Now, using a

6

seated on the spark plug.

until it's

along

its

each wire

cloth, clean

entire length.

Remove

all

built-up

and grease. As this is done, inspect for burned areas, cracks and any other form of damage. Bend the wires in several places to ensure that the conductive material inside hasn't hardened. Repeat the procedure for dirt

the

remaining

wires

(don't

forget

the

distributor cap-to-coil wire).

Remove

the distributor cap splash and check the wires at the cap, making sure they aren't loose and that the wires and boots aren't cracked or damaged. Note: Don'f attempt to pull the wires off the cap they're retained on the inside by wire clips. The manufacturer doesn't recommend removing the wires from the cap for inspection because this could damage the integrity of the boot seal. If the wires appear to be damaged, replace them with new ones. 7

shield

Refer to

illustrations 19.7a, 19.7b, 19.9

and

19.10

The spark plug wires should be checked recommended intervals or whenever

at the

new spark plugs

are installed.

The wires should be inspected one at a time to prevent mixing up the order which is 2

and then

be

this

new spark

means

the spark plug hole threads can

-

the

illustration).

essential for proper engine operation.

it

if

repairing

into the as much as possible by hand. Caution: Be extremely careful - these engines have aluminum cylinder heads, which 11

hole, tightening

into

it

enough

plug, again using a twisting motion

1

the spark plug with those

the plug well

will start to slip

prevent

them (see

removed.

is

but

it,

will grip

accompanying costs involved

cylinder through the plug hole as the spark

9 Now place the spark plug socket over the plug and remove it from the engine by

hose

plug begins will

With the engine cool, remove the spark

7

end of

short length of rubber hose over the

for cracks in the spark plug body (if any are found, the plug should not be used). If the side electrode is not exactly over the

6

18.9b The rear bank spark plugs on V6 models are accessible once the air cleaner assembly has been removed

Use a ratchet and short extension to remove the spark plugs

18.9a

it

check

1-17

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

Disconnect the plug wire from the spark plug. A removal tool can be used for this, or you can grab the rubber boot, twist slightly 3

wire

pull

itself,

the wire free. Don't pull on the

only on the rubber boot.

Remove

the distributor cap, release the wire

clips with a pair of pliers

and remove the

wires (see illustrations). Insert the into the

new

wires

cap while squeezing the boots to

WIRE

19.7b 18.11

hose

A

will

threads

When

replacing the spark plug

compress the wire retaining clips inside the distributor cap before pulling the wires out

wires, use a pair of pliers to

length of 3/16-inch ID rubber

save time and prevent damaged installing the spark plugs

when

19.7a After removing the splash shield, loosen the two screws (arrows) and lift the distributor

cap

off (four-cylinder

models)

1-18

Chapter

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance INSUFFICIENT

SPRING TENSION

BROKEN OR CRACKED TOWER

CRACKS

ROTOR

CRACKS

TIP

CORRODED CARBON TRACK

19.10 The ignition rotor should be checked for wear and corrosion as indicated here (if in doubt about its condition, buy a new one)

CHARRED OR ERODED TERMINALS

purchase a complete pre-cut set for your particular engine. The terminals and rubber boots should already be installed on the wires. Replace the wires one at a time to avoid mixing up the firing order and make

Shown here

are some of the defects to look for when inspecting the distributor cap (if in doubt 19.9

common

about

its

condition, install a

new

sure the terminals are securely seated distributor

the

one)

20 release any trapped

in

cap and on the spark plugs.

as you push them into place. Continue pushing until you feel the air

wire clips snap into position.

Drivebelt check, adjustment

and

TENSILE BREAK

replacement (every 25,000 miles or 18 months)

20.3 Here are

A visual check of the spark plug wires can also be made. In a darkened garage 8

Refer to

20.10a and 20.10b

engine parts.

the ignition switch

at the

damaged

there's a crack in the see arcing or a small spark

If

area.

Remove

the distributor cap with the wires attached and check the cap for cracks, carbon tracks and other damage. Examine the terminals inside the cap for corrosion

9

corrosion can be removed with a pocket knife) (see illustration). 10 Check the rotor (now visible on the end of the distributor shaft) for cracks and a secure fit on the shaft. Make sure the terminals aren't burned, corroded or pitted excessively. A small fine file can be used to (slight

restore the rotor terminals (see illustration). 11

If

new spark

plug wires are needed,

BELT DEFLECTION

Warning: The electric cooling fan on some models can activate at any time, even when is in the Off position. Disconnect the negative battery cable when working in the vicinity of the fan.

more common

how much

play an important role

amount

in

the overall operation

and its components. Due to their function and material makeup, the belts are prone to failure after a period of time and should be inspected and adjusted periodically to prevent major damage. 2 The number of belts used on a particular engine depends on the accessories installed. Drivebelts are used to turn the alternator, power steering pump, water pump and air conditioning compressor. Depending on the pulley arrangement, a single belt may be used for more than one of these components. Some later models use a serpentine of the vehicle

in place of multiple V-belts. A serpentine belt requires no adjustment, as this is taken care of by a tensioner. With the engine off, open the hood and 3

locate the various belts at the front of the engine. Using your fingers (and a flashlight if

EDGE

necessary), examine the belts. Check for cracks and separation of the plies. Look for

IS

PERPENDICULAR TO STRAIGHT EDGE

I

20.4 Measuring drivebelt deflection with a straightedge and ruler

The tightness of each beltls checked by pushing on it at a distance halfway between the pulleys (see illustration). Apply about 10 pounds of force with your thumb and see 4

The drivebelts, or V-belts as they are 1 sometimes called, at the front of the engine,

drivebelt

STRAIGHT

MAKE SURE RULER

of the

(check the belts very carefully to prevent an untimely breakdown)

illustrations 20.3, 20.4, 20.5a, 20.5b,

(make sure there is ventilation), start the engine and look at each plug wire. Be careful not to come into contact with any moving insulation, you'll

some

problems associated with drivebelts

the belt

moves down

(deflects).

Refer to this Chapter's Specifications for the of deflection allowed in each belt. adjustment is necessary, it's done by moving the belt-driven accessory on the bracket (see illustrations). For each component, there's a locking 6

5

If

bolt

and a pivot

loosened 7

After the

move (to

the

bolt or nut.

slightly to

two

move

bolts

Both must be

the component.

have been loosened,

component away from the engine

tighten the belt) or toward the engine (to

loosen the

belt).

Many accessories

are

equipped with a square hole designed to accept a 3/8-inch or 1/2-inch square drive breaker bar. The bar can be used to lever the component and tension the drivebelt. Hold the accessory in position and check the belt tension. If it's correct, tighten the two bolts until

snug, then recheck the tension.

right, tighten

If

it's all

the two bolts completely.

8 To adjust the alternator drivebelt, loosen the pivot nut and the locking screw or T-bolt locknut,

then turn the adjusting bolt to

contamination by grease or oil and glazed areas, which give the belt a shiny appearance. Both sides of each belt should be inspected, which means you'll have to twist them to check the underside (see illus-

tension the

tration).

or the part being pried against.

9

It

belt.

may be necessary to use some sort of move a component while the belt is

prybar to

adjusted. not to

If

this

damage

must be done, be very careful component being moved,

the

Chapter

1

1-19

Tune-up and routine maintenance

LOCKING NUT

REAR SUPPORT BRACKET

ADJUSTING

SCREW

LOCKING NUT

IDLER BRACKET

PIVOT

(T-BOLT)

SCREW

20.5a Typical non-turbo, four-cylinder engine drivebelt adjustment details

10

When

replacing a serpentine belt, use a

PIVOT NUT

1/2-inch drive breaker bar to rotate the tensioner counterclockwise (1990 and earlier

models) or clockwise (1991 on) as required to release the belt tension (see illustrations). Make sure the new belt is routed correctly (refer to the label in the engine compartment). 11 Run the engine for about 15 minutes, then recheck the belt tension.

21

replacement (every 25,000 miles or 18 months)

Air filter

Refer to

illustrations 21.3a, 21.3b, 21.5, 21.6,

21.10a, 21.10b 1

ADJUSTING BOLT

and 21.11

At the specified intervals, the

element and

air filter

equipped) crankcase ventilation filter should be replaced. 2 The air filter element is located in a housing on top of or adjacent to the engine. (if

20.5b Typical 2.6L engine drivebelt details

RIBBED (POLY V") BELT

ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT TENSIONER

FRAME (REFERENCE)

INSTALL

1

2"

BREAKER BAR INTO FORWARD 1/2"

SQUARE OPENING IN

TENSIONER

FORWARD

BAR TO REDUCE BELT TENSIONER LIFT

20.10a Rotate the serpentine drivebelt tensioner

counterclockwise on 1990 and earlier models

ROTATE CLOCKWISE TO RELEASE TENSION 20.10b

On

1991 and later serpentine belt models, the idler pulley rotated clockwise to relieve belt tension

is

.

1-20

Chapter

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

TIGHTEN THESE

AIR

WING NUTS

CLEANER CROSSOVER ALIGN THREE

FIRST

HOLD

DOWN

CLIPS

CARBURETOR

TIGHTEN THIS

WING NUT

LAST

21.3a 2.2L carbureted engine air cleaner details - The wing nuts must be removed and the clips disengaged to access the air filter element - when reinstalling, tighten the wing nuts in the order shown

Carbureted models accompanying illustraremove the nuts (if equipped, detach the clips, remove the cover, then lift the element and remove the ventilation filter (see Referring to the

3

tions,

illustrations).

4

Installation

,

is

the reverse of removal.

Models with Throttle Body Injection (TBI) Remove the screws and 5

into the throttle body or air cleaner assembly. Clean the inside of the housing with a rag. 8 Pull the crankcase ventilation filter (if equipped) out of the housing. Wash the crankcase filter in solvent and oil it lightly

before reinstalling. 9 Place the new filter element in position and install the cover. Be sure to tighten any

clamps

hose

which

were

loosened

21.3b 2.6L engine air cleaner details

or housing

off

22

Injection (MPI) 10

Release the hold-down clips or

separate the cover from the

air

the element out (see illus-

or

removed.

the cover

(see illustration). 6 Lift the element out (see illustration). 7 Be careful not to drop anything down

lift

11- Pull the crankcase ventilation filter (if equipped) out of the housing (see illustration). Wash the crankcase filter in solvent and oil it lightly before reinstalling. 12 Place the new filter into the air cleaner and install the cover.

Models with Multi-Point lift

and

trations).

bails,

Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve check and replacement (every 25,000 miles or 18 months) Positive

cleaner body

Refer to

illustrations 22.2a, 22.2b,

22.2c and

22.26 1

The PCV valve on 2.6L engines

located

in

is

the rubber hose connected to the

valve cover, or on 2.2L models,

module adjacent

to

it.

screwed into the intake manifold. With the engine idling 2 operating temperature,

in

a vent

On V6 models,

pull

at

its

normal

the valve (with the

hose attached) from the rubber fitting (see illustrations). On V6 models, detach the hose and, unscrew the valve (see illustration). 3 If

21 .5 to

A socket and

remove the

air

extension are required cleaner cover on later

21.6

Lift

the element out of the housing

TBI models

21.10a Use a screwdriver to detach the cover hold-down clips .

.

21.10b ... then lift the air cleaner housing cover up for access to the filter element

Place your finger over the valve opening. no vacuum at the valve, check for a

there's

plugged hose, manifold port or valve. Replace any plugged or deteriorated hoses. 4 Turn off the engine and shake the PCV

21 .1 1 Pull the crankcase

the housing

filter

out of

Chapter

1-21

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

CRANKCASE

TO HEAT TUBE ASSY

PCV VALVE

INLET

HOSE AIR CLEANER

PCV VALVE

VENT MODULE PCV HOSE

AIR

CLEANER TO CARBURETOR

VENT' HOSE 22.2a 2.2L carbureted engine

valve, listening for a rattle. rattle,

5

replace

with a

it

To replace the

If

new

of the hose, noting

the valve doesn't

it

from the end

and

direction.

a replacement PCV for your particular vehicle and engine size. Compare the old valve with the new one to make sure they're the same. On 2.2L carbureted engines, part of PCV valve maintenance involves detaching

When purchasing valve, make sure it's 6

the vent

washing

manifold,

out with solvent. Pour a small

module, shaking to distribute it, then reinstall the module. Push the valve into the end of the hose 7 or vent module until it's seated. 8 Inspect the rubber fitting for damage and replace it with a new one if necessary. Push the PCV valve and hose securely 9 of

oil

into the

into position.

2

Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system check (every 25,000 miles or 18 months)

Refer to

illustration

2.2L, 2.5L 1

The

EGR

valve hose and pipe for

damage and

leaks (see illustration). With the engine idling at normal 3 operating temperature, watch the stem under the valve for movement and increase the engine speed to approximately 2500 rpm. 4 The stem should move up and down as the engine speed changes, indicating that the EGR system is operating properly.

2.6L engines 5

These models use two

sub

EGR

EGR

and 3.0L V6 engines

22.2c Pull the

is

is is

EGR

valves.

The

located at the base of the

operated by the carburetor

The dual EGR valve bolts to the intake manifold and is controlled by engine vacuum. 6 Check the sub EGR valve linkage to make sure it's securely connected and inspect the dual EGR valve vacuum hoses 7 See Chapter 6 for more information on linkage.

24

EGR

system.

Underhood hose check and replacement (every 30,000 miles or 24 months)

23.2

valve

valve

carburetor and

the

23

adjacent to the carburetor or

body. Check the

module from the valve cover and it

amount

22.2b 2.6L engine

details

throttle

installed position

its

PCV valve

one.

valve, pull

FITTING

located on the intake

PCV valve

out of the

fitting

PCV valve

location details

department or air conditioning shop equipped to depressurize the system safely. Never remove air conditioning components or hoses until the system has been depressurized.

General High temperatures under the hood can of the rubber and plastic hoses used for engine, accessory and emission systems operation. Periodic inspection should be made for cracks, loose clamps, material hardening and leaks. 2 Information specific to the cooling system hoses can be found in Section 29. 3 Some, but not all, hoses use clamps to secure the hoses to fittings. Where clamps are used, check to be sure they haven't lost their tension, allowing the hose to leak. Where clamps are not used, make sure the hose hasn't expanded and/or hardened where it slips over the fitting, allowing it to 1

cause the deterioration

leak.

Vacuum hoses 4

It's

quite

common

especially those

in

for

vacuum hoses,

the emissions system, to

be color coded or

identified

by colored

molded into the hose. Various systems require hoses with different wall thicknesses, collapse resistance and temperstripes

Warning: Replacement of air conditioning hoses must be left to a dealer service

On V6 models, pull the hose off and use a wrench to unscrew the PCV valve from the manifold

22.2d

23.2 Inspect the rubber hose on the

EGR

valve (arrow) for hardening and cracks

1

1-22

Chapter

ature resistance.

When

make sure the new ones same material.

replacing are

made

way

hoses, of the

check a hose is to remove it completely from the vehicle. Where more than one hose is removed, be sure to label the hoses and their attaching points to insure proper Often the only effective

5

to

reattachment.

checking vacuum hoses, be sure to include any plastic T-fittings in the check. Check the fittings for cracks and the hose where it fits over the fitting for enlargement, which could cause leakage.

A

7

on

fuel lines.

small piece of

vacuum hose

(1/4-inch

inside diameter) can

be used as a stethoscope to detect vacuum leaks. Hold one end of the hose to your ear and probe around vacuum hoses and fittings, listening for the "hissing" sound characteristic of a vacuum leak. Warning: When probing with the vacuum hose stethoscope, be careful not to allow your body or the hose to come into contact with moving engine components such as the drivebelt, cooling fan, etc.

These clamps often lose

their

tension over a period of time, and can be "sprung" during the removal process. Therefore it is recommended that all spring-

type clamps be replaced with screw clamps whenever a hose is replaced.-

Metal lines Sections of metal

1

When

6

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

between the

fuel line

line

fuel

are often used for

pump and

carbu-

Check carefully to has not been bent and

retor or fuel injection unit.

be sure the line crimped and that cracks have not started the

in

line.

12

If

a section of metal fuel

line

must be

4

Press the accelerator to the

plate should close completely.

floor.

engine while you watch the plate

carburetor, as the engine could backfire,

causing serious burns. When the engine starts, the choke plate should open slightly. Allow the engine to continue running at 5 idle speed. As the engine warms up to operating temperature, the plate should slowly open, allowing more air to enter through the top of carburetor. 6 After a few minutes, the choke plate should be fully open to the vertical position.

Tap the accelerator

to

make

sure the fast

idle

cam

be used, since copper and aluminum tubing

7 You'll notice that the engine speed corresponds with the plate opening. With the plate fully closed, the engine should run at fast idle speed. As the plate opens and the throttle is moved to disengage the fast idle cam, the engine speed should decrease.

do not have the strength necessary

to

withstand normal engine operating vibration. 13 Check the metal brake lines where they enter the master cylinder and brake proportioning unit

loose

(if

fittings.

calls for

used) for cracks

Any

in

the lines or

disengages.

sign of brake fluid leakage

an immediate thorough inspection of

the brake system.

Cleaning 8

With the engine

off,

use aerosol carbu-

retor solvent (available at auto parts stores) to

Warning: Gasoline

extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don't smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don't work in a garage where a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water heater or clothes dryer) with a pilot light is present. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a Class B type fire extinguisher on hand. Before working on any part of the fuel system, relieve the fuel system pressure (see Chapter 4). 8 Check all rubber fuel hoses for damage and deterioration. Check especially for cracks in areas where the hose bends and just before clamping points, such as where a hose attaches is

to the fuel injection unit.

High quality fuel line, specifically designed for fuel injection systems, should be used for fuel line replacement. Warning: Never use vacuum line, clear plastic tubing or water hose for fuel lines. 10 Spring-type clamps are commonly used 9

25

Carburetor choke check and cleaning (every 30,000 miles or 24 months)

illustrations 25.3, 25.8a and 25.8b Warning: Disconnect the fan motor or

Refer to

negative battery

when working

in

clean the contact surfaces of the choke plate

where it passes through the carburetor body. Also clean the idle cam and link mechanism (see illustrations). 9 Refer to Chapter 4 for specific information on adjusting and servicing the choke shaft

components.

the vicinity

of the fan.

26

Check 1 The choke operates only when the engine is cold, so this check should be performed before the engine starts for the

Carburetor/fuel injection throttle body mounting bolt/nut torque check (every 30,000 miles or 24

months)

day.

2

Expose the top

of the carburetor by

taking off the top of the air cleaner assembly

any vacuum hoses must be disconnected, make sure you tag the hoses for reinstallation in their original positions. Place the top plate and wing nut aside, out of the way of moving engine components. 3 Look at the center of the air cleaner or the inlet air duct.

housing.

You

will

If

notice a

flat

plate at the

carburetor opening (see illustration). APPLY SOLVENT

TO CHOKE SHAFT

Refer to

illustration

26.4

1 The carburetor or fuel injection throttle body is attached to the intake manifold by bolts or nuts. These can sometimes work loose during normal engine operation and cause a vacuum leak. 2 To properly tighten the mounting bolts

wrench is necessary. If you do not own one, they can usually be rented on a daily basis.

or nuts, a torque

3

Remove

the

air

cleaner assembly.

APPLY SOLVENT

FAST IDLE

The choke

at the

carburetor. Don't position your face near the

replaced, only seamless steel tubing should

Fuel hose

25.3

The

Start the

plate (arrow)

is

located

the carburetor throat and should be closed when the engine is cold

in

25.8a Apply the solvent to the choke shaft in the areas indicated by arrows

CAM

25.8b On 2.2L engines, apply the solvent to the link between the choke shaft and the thermostat and the sealing block

Chapter

1-23

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

welding torch or any open flame can easily cause the fuel vapors to explode if the proper precautions are not taken.

6 Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal lines leading away from the fuel tank. Check for loose connections, deteriorated hoses, crimped lines and damage of any kind (see illustration). Follow the lines up to the front of the vehicle, carefully inspecting

them

Repair or replace damaged sections as necessary (see Chapter 4).

all

26.4 Fuel injection throttle

body

28.6

bolt

Check the

fuel tank

damage and

locations (arrows) - upper arrows point to the rear bolts, which are not visible

hoses

29

for

deterioration

the way.

Cooling system check (every 30,000 miles or 24 months)

Refer to

Locate the mounting bolts at the base of the throttle body (see illustration). Decide what special tools or adaptors will be necessary, if any, to tighten the bolts with a socket and the torque wrench. Tighten the bolts to the torque listed in 5 Specifications. this Chapter's Do not overtighten the bolts, as the threads may strip. If you suspect a vacuum leak exists at 6 the bottom of the throttle body, obtain a short length of rubber hose. Start the engine and place one end of the hose next to your ear as you probe around the base of the carburetor or throttle body with the other end. You should hear a hissing sound if a leak exists. 7 If, after the bolts/nuts are properly 4

If the air cleaner isn't operating properly, 6 see Chapter 4 for more information.

the fan

if

28

Fuel system check (every 30,000 miles or 24 months)

Refer to

illustration

thoroughly inspected immediately.

4

4

65-degrees

damage, corrosion and a proper sealing imprint on the gasket. Replace the cap with a new one necessary.

still

exists, the

and a new gasket more information.

See Chapter 4

for

After tightening the bolts/nuts, reinstall

8 the

installed.

air

cleaner housing.

Heated

27

inlet air

system check

(every 30,000 miles or 24 months) Carbureted and TBI-equipped models are equipped with a heated inlet air cleaner which draws air to the carburetor or fuel injection throttle body from different locations, depending on engine temperature. This is a simple visual check; however, 2 the outside air duct must be removed. 3 Locate the vacuum air control valve in the air cleaner assembly. It's located inside the air cleaner duct fitting, where you 1

undamaged. The check should be done when the engine and outside air are cold (less than the duct

F).

Start the

fitting at

engine and look through

the valve (which should

move

Remove

5

air

cannot enter through the end of the duct

punctures, cracks and other damage. The connection between the filler neck and the tank

but instead enters the

air

cleaner through

As the engine warms up to operating temperature, the valve should move down to 5

the "heat off" position to allow

duct

fitting.

ature, this

through the air tempertake 10 to 15 minutes. To air

Depending on outside

may

the vicinity of the fan.

chafed area that prematurely.

for a

fail

Check for a soft area indicating the hose has deteriorated inside.

Overtightening the clamp on a hardened hose will damage the

hose and cause a

leak.

Check each hose

for swelling and oil-soaked ends. Cracks and breaks can be located by squeezing the hose.

if

to the "heat on" position). With the valve up,

fitting,

Check

in

the gas tank cap and check for

up

the heat duct attached to the exhaust manifold.

when working

could

Disconnect

motor or the negative battery cable

28.6

securely attached and

leak

ignition switch is in the Off position.

Warning: Gasoline

removed the outside air duct from. Make sure the flexible heat duct under the air cleaner is

vacuum

carburetor or throttle body must be removed

29.4

Warning: The electric cooling fan on these models can activate at any time, even when the

is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don 't smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don 't work in a garage where a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water heater or clothes dryer) with a pilot light is present. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a Class B type fire extinguisher on hand. On fuel injected models the fuel system 1 is under pressure even when the engine is off. Consequently, the fuel system must be depressurized (see Chapter 4) whenever it is worked on. Even after depressurization, if any fuel lines are disconnected for servicing, be prepared to catch some fuel as it spurts out. Plug all disconnected fuel lines immediately to prevent the tank from emptying itself. The fuel system is most easily checked 2 with the vehicle raised on a hoist where the components on the underside are readily visible and accessible. If the smell of gasoline is noticed while 3 driving, or after the vehicle has been parked in the sun, the fuel system should be

tightened, a

illustration

speed up the check you can reconnect the outside air duct, drive the vehicle and then check to see the valve has moved down.

Inspect the gas tank and

filler

neck

for

Sometimes a rubber filler clamps or deteriorated rubber; problems a home mechanic can usually rectify. Warning: Do not, under any is

especially

neck

will

critical.

leak

due

circumstances,

to loose

try to repair a fuel tank yourself (except to replace rubber components). A

29.4 Hoses, like drivebelts, have a habit of failing at the worst possible time - to prevent the inconvenience of a blown radiator or heater hose, inspect them carefully as shown here

1-24 1

Chapter

Many major engine

failures

can be

attributed to a faulty cooling system.

vehicle

is

equipped

transaxle, the cooling

an

with

system

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

If

automatic

been shut

correct torque.

the radiator cap and thoroughly

clean the cap (inside and out) with water. Also clean the filler neck on the radiator. All traces of corrosion should be removed. 4 Carefully check the upper and lower radiator hoses along with the smaller

diameter heater hoses. Inspect the entire length of each hose, replacing any that are cracked, swollen or deteriorated. Cracks may become more apparent when a hose is squeezed (see illustration). 5 Also check that all hose connections are tight. A leak in the cooling system will usually show up as white or rust-colored deposits on

Use compressed air or a soft brush to remove bugs, leaves, and other debris from

6

the front of the radiator or

air

conditioning

condenser. Be careful not* to damage the delicate cooling fins, or cut yourself on them. 7 Finally, have the cap and system pressure tested. If you do not have a pressure tester, most gas stations and repair shops will do this for a minimal charge.

Exhaust system check (every 30,000 miles or 24 months)

With the engine cold (at least three hours after the vehicle has been driven), check the complete exhaust system from its starting point at the engine to the end of the tailpipe. This should be done on a hoist where unrestricted access is available. 2 Check the pipes and connections for signs of leakage and/or corrosion indicating a 1

potential failure.

and hangers are

Make in

sure that

all

brackets

good condition and

tight.

same time, inspect the underside of the body for holes, corrosion and open seams which may allow exhaust gases to 3

At the

enter the passenger compartment. Seal

body openings with

Crawl under the vehicle and check for loose bolts, broken or disconnected parts and deteriorated rubber bushings on all 7

31.3 This leaking fluid (arrow) indicates a blown seal, which means the shock

absorber must be replaced

31

silicone sealant or

Steering and suspension check (every 30,000 miles or 24 months)

Refer to 1

the areas adjoining the leak.

30

supported. 6 Check the driveaxle/hub nuts for the

off for three or four hours.

Remove

illustrations

Whenever the

raised for service

it

front of the vehicle is

Rattles

check the suspension and steering components for wear and damage. 2 Indications of wear and damage include excessive play in the steering wheel before

Steering shaft seal lubrication

(1985 and earlier models only) (every 30,000 miles or 24 months)

corners,

body movement over rough roads

binding at

some

point as the steering wheel

or is

turned.

3

1

Before

the

vehicle

raised

for

of at

is

pushing down to rock the vehicle at each

does not come back to a level position within one or two bounces, the shocks are worn and should be replaced. As If it

done, check for squeaks and unusual noises from the suspension components. Check the shock absorbers for fluid leakage (see illustration). Information on shock absorbers and suspension components can be found in Chapter 10. 4 Check the balljoints for wear by grasping the grease fittings securely and this is

move them (see illustration). If move easily, the balljoints worn and must be replaced with new

seal protects the

where it passes The inner circumference the seal should be lubricated with grease the specified interval or if the shaft makes

through the

inspection, test the shock absorbers by

corner.

The steering shaft

steering shaft at the point firewall.

noise or sticks 2

in

the seal

when

turned.

Raise the vehicle and support

it

securely

on jackstands. Peel back the upper edge of the seal and apply a light coat of the specified grease where it contacts the steering shaft. 4 Lower the vehicle.

3

33

Rear wheel bearing check, repack and adjustment (every 30,000 or 24 months)

attempting to

the grease fittings

Refer to illustrations 33.

are

and 33.26 1 In most cases the rear wheel bearings won't need servicing until the brake shoes

ones.

1,

33.7, 33.8, 33. 14

all

are changed. However, the bearings should

be checked whenever the rear of the vehicle is raised for any reason. Several items, including a torque wrench and special grease, are required for this procedure (see

black and sooty or

coated with white deposits, the engine may be in need of a tune-up (including a thorough fuel system inspection and adjustment).

32

body

running condition of the engine by inspecting the very end of the tailpipe. The exhaust deposits here are an indication of engine is

to

the front wheels react, excessive lean around

mounts and hangers. Try to move the pipes, muffler and catalytic converter. If the components can come into contact with the body, secure the exhaust system with new mounts. 5 This is also an ideal time to check the

the pipe

try

is

and other noises can often be

If

Check the steering joints for wear. 8 Have an assistant turn the steering wheel from side-to-side and check the steering components for free movement, chafing and binding. If the wheels don't respond to the

a good idea to visually

traced to the exhaust system, especially the

state-of-tune.

suspension and steering components. Look for grease or fluid leaking from around the steering gear boots. Check the power steering hoses and connections for leaks.

movement of the steering wheel, determine where the slack is located.

31.3 and 31.4

putty.

4

it

placed under the jacking and hoisting points (see Jacking and towing at the front of this manual). Because of the work to be done, the vehicle must be stable and safely

cool the transaxle fluid. 2 The cooling system should be checked with the engine cold. Do this before the vehicle is driven for the day or after it has

3

end of the vehicle securely with jackstands

raise the front

and support

also used to

is

Now

5

the

illustration).

With the vehicle securely supported on jackstands, spin each wheel and check for 2

and freeplay. Grasp the top of each tire with one hand and the bottom with the other. Move the wheel in-and-out on the spindle. If there's any noticeable movement, the bearings should be checked and then repacked with noise, rolling resistance

3

31 .4 With the vehicle weight resting on the suspension, try to move the balljoint grease fittings with your fingers - if the fittings can be moved easily, the balljoints are worn and must be replaced

grease or replaced if necessary. 4 Remove the wheel. On rear-disc brakeequipped models, remove the caliper (see

Chapter

9).

^MfH^MHI

Chapter

1

1-25

Tune-up and routine maintenance DUST SEAl

BRAKE DRUM

BEARING CONE

COTTER

(OUTER)

PIN

lOCK

WHEEL NUT

BRAKE DRUM RETAINING NUT GREASE

CAP 33.1

1

Tools and materials needed for front wheel bearing maintenance

33.7

An exploded view

of the rear brake

drum/hub and bearing components

Hammer - A common hammer will do just fine

2

3

Grease

- High-temperature grease that formulated specially for wheel bearings

is

should be used Wood block - If you have a scrap piece of 2x4, it can be used to drive the new

hub Needle-nose pliers - Used to straighten and remove the cotter pin in the spindle Torque wrench - This is very important in seal into the

4 5

procedure; if the bearing is too tight, the wheel won 't turn freely - if it 's too loose, the wheel will "wobble" on the spindle. Either way, it could mean this

damage Screwdriver - Used

extensive

6

from the hub

(a

to

remove

the seal

long screwdriver

is

preferred)

7

Socket/ breaker bar - Needed to loosen the nut on the spindle if it's extremely tight

8

Brush

-

Together with

solvent, this will

some

be used

to

clean

remove old

grease from the hub and spindle

5

Pry the grease cap out of the hub with a

screwdriver or

6

hammer and

chisel.

Straighten the bent ends of the cotter

then pull the cotter pin out of the lock. Discard the cotter pin and use a new one during reassembly. 7 Remove the lock and the hub nut from the end of the spindle (see illustration). Pull the brake drum/hub assembly out 8 slightly, then push it back into its original position. This should force the outer bearing and washer off the spindle enough so they can be removed (see illustration). Pull the brake drum/hub assembly off 9 the spindle. If it does not come off easily, back off the adjuster as described in the drum brake shoe replacement procedure in Chapter 9. 10 Use a screwdriver to pry the dust seal out of the rear of the hub. As this is done, note how the seal is installed. 11 Remove the inner wheel bearing from pin,

Use solvent

the parts to

13

air dry.

Carefully

inspect

to

remove

all

traces of old

the

bearings

for

cracks, heat discoloration, worn rollers, etc.

check the bearing races inside the hub for wear and damage. If the bearing races are defective, the hubs should be taken to a machine shop with the facilities to remove the old races and press new ones in. Note that the bearings and races come as matched sets - old bearings should never be installed on new races and vice-versa. 14 Use high-temperature wheel bearing grease to pack the bearings. Work the grease completely into the bearings,

forcing

it

between the rollers, cone and cage from the back side (see illustration). 15 Apply a thin coat of grease to the spindle at the outer bearing seat, inner bearing seat, shoulder and seal seat. 16 Put a small quantity of grease on the inner side of

each bearing race inside the

hub. Using your finger, form a

dam

at

these

points to provide extra grease availability to

and

keep thinned grease from flowing out

of

the bearing.

17

Place the grease-packed inner bearing

drum/hub out slightly wheel bearing, then remove the washer and bearing

33.8 Pull the brake

to dislodge the outer

the hub.

12

grease from the bearings, hub and spindle. A small brush may prove helpful; however, make sure no bristles from the brush embed themselves inside the bearing rollers. Allow

into the rear of the

hub and put a

little

more

grease on the outer side of the bearing. 18 Place a new dust seal over the inner bearing and tap the seal evenly into place with a hammer and block of wood until it's flush with the hub.

19 Carefully place the drum/hub assembly on the spindle and push the grease-packed outer bearing into position.

20

Install

the washer and nut. Tighten the

nut only slightly (no

than 12

more

ft-tbs of torque).

Spin the drum/hub in a forward direction to seat the bearings and remove any grease or burrs which could cause excessive bearing 21

play

later.

22

Verify that the tightness of the nut

approximately 12 ft-lbs. 23 Loosen the nut until

it's

is still

just loose,

no

more. 24 Using your hand (not a wrench of any kind), tighten the nut until it's snug. Install the lock and a new cotter pin through the hole in the spindle and lock. If the lock slots don't line up, take it off and rotate it to another position.

Bend the ends

25

they're

flat

of the cotter pin until

against the nut. Cut off any extra

length which could interfere with the grease

cap.

Work the grease into each bearing from the large diameter side until it's forced out of the small diameter side

33.14

6 7

1

1-26

Chapter

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

\

X 33.26 Tap the grease cap into place with a large punch and a hammer (work around the outer edge)

26

the grease cap, tapping

Install

place with a

27

Install

it

into

hammer

(see illustration). the wheel and tighten the lug

nuts.

28 Grasp the top and bottom of the tire and check the bearings in the manner described earlier in this Section.

29

34

Lower the

vehicle.

«

Brake system check (every 30,000 miles or 24 months)

Refer to

illustrations 34.5, 34. 13,

and 34. 15

1 The brakes should be inspected every time the wheels are removed or whenever a defect is suspected. Indications of a potential brake system problem include the vehicle pulling to one side when the brake pedal is

depressed, noises coming from the brakes when they are applied, excessive brake pedal travel, pulsating pedal and leakage of fluid, usually seen on the inside of the tire or wheel.

Disc brakes (front and on later models, rear) Disc brakes can be visually checked without removing any parts except the wheels. Raise the vehicle and place it securely 3 on jackstands. Remove the wheels (see

34.5 There's an inspection hole like this in each caliper - by looking through the hole

you can determine the thickness of the remaining friction material on both the inner and outer pads Jacking and towing at the front of if

necessary).

4

Now

visible

this

manual

the disc brake caliper

is

which contains the pads. There is an outer brake pad and an inner pad. Both should be checked for wear. 5 Note the pad thickness by looking at each end of the caliper and through the inspection hole in the caliper body (see illustration). If the combined thickness of the pad lining and metal shoe is 5/16-inch or less, the pads should be replaced. Since it'll be difficult, if not impossible, to 6 measure the exact thickness of the pad, if you're in doubt as to the pad quality, remove them for further inspection or replacement. See Chapter 9 for disc brake pad replacement. Before installing the wheels, check for 7 leakage around the brake hose connections leading to the caliper and for damaged brake hoses (cracks, leaks, chafed areas, etc.). Replace the hoses or fittings as necessary (see Chapter 9). Also check the disc for score marks, 8 wear and burned spots. If these conditions exist, the hub/disc assembly should be removed for servicing (see Chapter 9).

2

Drum brakes

(rear)

it

will

lock the

drums

in

place.

Remove the wheels, referring to Jacking 10 and towing at the front of this manual if Remove

the brake

drum as described

in

With the drum any accumulations of dirt and dust using brake system cleaner. Warning: Don't blow the dust out with compressed air and don 't inhale any of it (it may contain asbestos, which is harmful to your health). 13 Note the thickness of the lining material on both front and rear brake shoes. If the material has worn away to within 1/8-inch of the recessed rivets or metal backing, the shoes should be replaced (see illustration). 12

check

for fluid leakage

they're

shoes (see illustration). Any leakage here is an indication that the wheel cylinders should be overhauled immediately of the brake

(see Chapter

connections 1

9).

Also,

check

hoses and

all

for signs of leakage.

Wipe the

inside of the

drum

with a clean

rag and denatured alcohol or brake cleaner.

be careful not dangerous asbestos dust.

Again,

1

Check the

breathe

to

inside of the

drum

the

for cracks,

score marks, deep scratches and "hard spots" which will appear as small discolored areas. If imperfections cannot be removed

emery cloth, the drum must be taken to an automotive machine shop for with fine

resurfacing.

Repeat the procedure for the remaining 18 wheel. If the inspection reveals that all parts are in good condition, reinstall the brake drums. Install the wheels and lower the

35

Cooling system servicing

and refilling) (every 30,000 or 24 months) (draining, flushing

illustrations

removed, carefully clean

35.5a and 35.5b

Warning: Do not allow engine coolant (antifreeze) to

Section 33. off

if

cracked, glazed (shiny areas), or covered with brake fluid. 14 Make sure all the brake assembly springs are connected and in good condition. 15 Check the brake components for signs of fluid leakage. Carefully pry back the rubber cups on the wheel cylinder located at the top

Refer to

necessary. 1

The shoes should also be replaced

vehicle to the ground.

Raise the vehicle and support it securely 9 on jackstands. Block the front tires to prevent the vehicle from rolling; however, don't apply the parking brake or

34.15 Use a small screwdriver to carefully pry the boot away from the cylinder and

34.13 If the lining is bonded to the brake shoe, measure the lining thickness from the outer surface to the metal shoe, as shown here; if the lining is riveted to the shoe, measure from the lining outer surface to the rivet head

come

in

contact with your skin

or painted surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately with plenty of water. Antifreeze is highly toxic if ingested. Never leave antifreeze lying around

in

an open

container or in puddles on the and pets are attracted by it's sweet smell and may drink it. Check with local authorities about disposing of used antifreeze. Many communities have collection centers floor; children

which safely.

will

see that antifreeze

is

disposed of

5

Chapter

1

1-27

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1 Periodically, the cooling system should be drained, flushed and refilled to replenish the antifreeze mixture and prevent formation of rust and corrosion, which can impair the performance of the cooling system and cause engine damage. When the cooling system is serviced, all hoses and the radiator cap should be checked and replaced, if

necessary.

Draining same

time the cooling system is hoses and the radiator cap should be inspected and replaced if faulty 2

At the

serviced,

all

35.5a The drain fitting (arrow) is located at the bottom of the radiator

(see Section 29).

3

With

the

engine

cap and

radiator

remove the

cold,

35.5b To allow the system to drain on fuel-injected four-cylinder engines, remove the vacuum switch or bleeder plug (shown here) located on the

set the heater control to

Heat (Max). 4

Move

thermostat housing

under the

container

large

a

the engine

housing on the engine on 2.2L and 2.5L four-cylinder engines (see

on the antifreeze container or in your owner's manual. Chapter 3 also contains information on antifreeze mixtures. 16 Keep a close watch on the coolant level and the various cooling system hoses during the first few miles of driving. Tighten the hose clamps and add more coolant mixture as

illustration).

necessary.

the light must be connected to the battery

radiator to catch the coolant mixture as

it's

drained.

5

Open

the drain

the bottom of

fitting at

Remove

the radiator (see illustration).

vacuum switch

the

or bleeder plug from the top

of the thermostat

6

On V6

for

engines, remove the drain plugs

located on each side of the block. 7

reservoir

and

flush

it

36

with clean

fine)

Place a hose (a common garden hose is in the radiator filler neck at the top of the

and

radiator

runs clear at

flush the all

system

until

the water

drain points.

Flushing In severe cases of contamination or 9 clogging of the radiator, remove it (see

and reverse flush it. This involves inserting the hose in the bottom radiator

Chapter

3)

outlet to allow the clean water to run against

the normal flow, draining through the top. radiator repair

shop should be consulted

A if

Ignition timing

check and

adjustment (every 30,000 miles or 24 months)

water.

8

illustrations 36.2, 36.5a,

36.5b and

1 All vehicles are equipped with a Vehicle Emissions Control Information label inside the engine compartment. The label contains important ignition timing specifications and the proper timing procedure for your specific vehicle. If the information on the emissions label is different from the information included in this Section, follow the procedure on the label.

2

At the specified intervals, or

when

the

necessary.

Where the coolant

is

regularly drained

distributor has

with the correct

timing must be checked and adjusted

refilled

be no need employ chemical cleaners or descalers.

antifreeze mixture there should

to

Install

include an inductive pick-up timing

the coolant reservoir, reconnect

the hoses and close the drain

models 12

install

Add

fitting.

On V6

the block drain plugs.

been removed, the

ignition

©.

fs

light,

the plug or tighten

it

vacuum switch

in

©

On

it

Add coolant

is

accordance

and the number one spark plug is some The number one spark plug wire or terminal should be marked at the distributor; trace back to the spark plug and attach the it

timing light lead near the plug. Caution:

an

a

will misfire.

Locate the timing marks

5

at the

window

the transaxle bellhousing or front of the

in

engine (see illustrations). 6 Locate the notched groove across the It may be necessary to have an assistant temporarily turn the ignition on and off in short bursts without starting the engine in order to bring the groove into a position where it can easily be cleaned and marked. Warning: Sfay clear of all moving

flywheel/driveplate.

Vacuum plugs

Vacuum hoses will, in most cases, have to be disconnected and plugged. Molded plugs in vahous shapes and sizes are available for this -

Inductive pick-up timing light Flashes a bhght, concentrated beam

with the light

reaches the radiator cap

3

to the reservoir until the

wrench - On some models, the hold- down bolt for the distributor is difficult to reach and turn Distributor

with conventional wrenches or

sockets.

reached and, with the engine

add coolant up the correct level. Always refill the system with a mixture of antifreeze and water in the proportion called

If

the timing light pick-up lead. Instead, use an adapter between the spark plug and plug wire. If the insulation on the plug wire is damaged, the secondary voltage will jump to ground at the damaged point and the engine

the hole and

between the Min and Max marks. Run the engine until normal operating

temperature

light in

of light when the number one spari< plug fires. Connect the leads according to the instructions supplied

level is

14

sure

with the manufacturer's instructions. Usually,

2

seat.

13

Connect a timing

4

securely. Continue adding coolant

to the radiator until

make

normal operating temper-

ature.

1

2.2L and 2.5L four-cylinder engines, add coolant until it reaches the bottom of the threaded bleeder plug hole in the thermostat housing. Reinstall coolant to the radiator.

if

necessary. Tools required for this procedure

Refilling 11

is at

don't puncture the spark plug wire to attach

Refer to 36.12

is

10

Before you check the timing,

inductive pick-up timing light isn't available,

further cleaning or repair

and the system

illustration).

3

fashion.

Disconnect the coolant reservoir hose,

remove the

tachometer and a distributor wrench (see

A

special wrench

must be used

idling, 1

36.2 Tools

needed

to

check and adjust the

ignition timing

like this

2 1

7

1-28

Chapter

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance MAGNETIC TIMING PROBE^

Manual transaxle lubricant change (every 30,000 or 24

38

RECEPTACLE

months) Raise the front of the vehicle and 1 support it securely on jackstands. Apply the parking brake. 2

the transaxle

If

is

equipped with a drain fluid into a

remove plug and drain

plug,

suitable container.

3 the

36.5a The bellhousing window (2.2L and 2.5L four-cylinder engines) allows you to

view the flywheel/driveplate notch (arrow) - mark this notch and the mark along side it on the window that corresponds to the number of degrees specified on the Vehicle Emissions Control Information label in the engine compartment engine components when the engine is turned over in this manner. 7 Use white chalk or paint to mark the groove in the flywheel (see illustration 36.5a). Also, mark the number corresponding to the number of degrees specified on the Vehicle Emissions Control Information label in the engine compartment. 8 Connect a tachometer to the engine,

36.5b On V6 and 2.6L four-cylinder engines, the timing marks are attached to the front of the engine and the crankshaft pulley has a groove in it for reference

position.

Make

9

clear of

is

sure the wiring for the timing all

light

moving engine components,

alignment, the timing

is

correct.

If

the marks

are not aligned, turn off the engine.

Loosen the hold-down bolt at the base of the distributor. Loosen the bolt only 14

slightly, just

enough

(see Chapter

5).

Now

restart the

Shut

off

illustration).

13 Aim the timing light at the marks, again being careful not to come into contact with

moving parts. The marks you made should appear stationary. If the marks are in

draw

plug opening with

a suction syringe. 4 Replace the drain plug,

if

equipped, and

tighten securely.

5

the transaxle with the

Fill

Recommended

plug.

recommended lubricants and

beginning of this Chapter)

fluids at the

until

bottom edge of the filler Drive the vehicle and check the cover is

at the

for leaks.

39

the engine and tighten the

distributor bolt, being careful not to

move

Differential lubricant

change

(1982 automatic transaxle models only) (every 30,000 miles or 24 months)

are aligned.

16

fill

to turn the distributor

engine and turn the distributor very slowly until the timing marks 15

the

distributor.

Raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. 2 Remove the differential fill plug (see 1

and recheck the timing to make sure the marks are still in alignment. Reconnect the vacuum hoses or coolant Start the engine

temperature sensor.

Section 13). 3 Use a suction lubricant through the

On

2.6L engines, disconnect the vacuum hose from the distributor and plug it. 1 On 2.2L carbureted engines, disconnect and plug the vacuum hose at the Spark Control Computer. If equipped with a carburetor switch, connect a jumper between the switch and a good ground. 1 On fuel-injected engines, disconnect the coolant temperature sensor connector (located on the thermostat housing) (see

out through the

the level

then start the engine.

10

not equipped with a drain plug,

lubricant (see

1

setting the selector to the correct cylinder

If

fluid

4

37

Airbag system check (every 30,000 miles or 24 months)

1 At the specified intervals, the airbag system should be checked. 2 Turn the ignition switch On and make sure the airbag warning light goes on, then

seconds goes out. If the light doesn't go on or goes on and stays lit for more than ten seconds, take the vehicle to a dealer service department and have the system checked. 3 Refer to Chapter 12 for more information on the airbag system.

pump fill

to

remove the

plug hole.

the differential with the specified is just below the fill hole and install the plug. Lower the vehicle. 5 Fill

lubricant until the level

40 Automatic transaxle filter

after ten

fluid

and

change

(every 30,000 miles or 24 months) illustrations 40.3, 40.4 and 40.8 The automatic transaxle fluid and filter should be changed, the magnet cleaned and the bands adjusted at the recommended

Refer to 1

intervals.

Raise the front of the vehicle and 2 support it securely on jackstands. Apply the parking brake.

3

Position a container under the transaxle

pan. Loosen the pan bolts. Completely remove the bolts along the rear of the pan. Tap the corner of the pan (see illustration) to break the seal and allow the fluid to drain into fluid

the container (the remaining bolts

will

prevent

the pan from separating from the transaxle).

Remove

the remaining bolts and detach the

pan.

4

Remove

filter (a

36.12

On fuel-injected four-cylinder

models, unplug the coolant sensor connector (arrow) before checking the ignition timing

40.3 Use a soft-face hammer to break the gasket seal at the corner of the pan so the .

fluid will drain

out

the

filter

special Torx

screws and detach the may be required for

bit

the screws) (see illustration).

Refer to Section 41 and adjust the bands before proceeding with the fluid change. 5

1

.

Chapter

40.4

A Torx-head

tool

removing the

6

Install

the

filter

the

may be

filter

new gasket and

RTV

filter.

Tighten

screws securely.

remove all traces of old sealant from the pan and transaxle body (don't nick or gouge the sealing surfaces). Clean the magnet in the pan with a clean, lint-free cloth. 8 Apply a 1/8-inch bead of RTV sealant to the pan sealing surface and position it on the 7

Carefully

transaxle (see illustration).

and tighten them

40.8 Apply a 1/8-inch diameter bead of sealant and install the pan before the sealant dries

required for

screws

Install

the bolts

to the torque listed in this

Chapter's Specifications following a crisscross pattern. Work up to the final torque in

may

and allow

mark

it

move

then

two minutes, through each of the

to idle for at least

the shift lever

gear positions, ending in Park or Neutral. Check for fluid leakage around the pan. 10 Add more fluid until the level is between the Add and Full marks. Add fluid a little at a time

until

11

Make

is

it

completely

(be careful not to overfill

sure or

the dirt

dipstick

could

get

into

the

transaxle.

lubricants

and

fluids at the

41

beginning of this

position

away from

the cable

Move

the band adjustment

screw.

Loosen the locknut approximately five make sure the adjusting screw

4

turns and

Tighten the adjusting screw to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. Back the adjusting screw off the 6 5

number

specified

Recommended

band adjustment. If so. and then remove the

interfere with its

and wrench

can't turn

turns freely.

it).

seated

is

it

accelerator cable adjustment bolt.

tions

Lower the vehicle and add three quarts

of the specified fluid (see

41.7 Hold the screw so

tighten the locknut with a box-end

Chapter) to the transaxle. Start the engine

three or four steps.

9

1-29

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

Automatic transaxle band adjustment (three-speed models only) (every 30,000 miles or 24 months)

section

of turns (see the Specifica-

the

at

beginning

of

this

Chapter).

Hold the screw

7

in

position

and tighten

the locknut securely (see illustration).

Low-Reverse band Refer to

illustrations 41.7, 41.9, 41.10,

1

The transaxle bands should be adjusted specified in the maintenance schedule at the time of a fluid and filter change (see

Section 40).

To determine the band is worn excessively, remove the Low-Reverse pressure 9

if

plug from the transaxle case (see illus-

location (arrow)

10

The kickdown band adjustment screw

located at the top

is

psi of air pressure to

ends

Measure the gap between the band (see illustration). It should be

left

side of the transaxle

0.080-inch minimum.

On some models

the accelerator cable

band should be replaced with a new one. 1 To proceed with adjustment, pry off the parking rod E-clip and remove the rod (see

case.

3

and apply 30

the port.

Kickdown band 41.9 Low-Reverse band pressure plug

Low-Reverse

(see Section 40).

tration)

2

to the

band, the transaxle pan must be removed

when or

To gain access

8

and 41.15

41.11a, 41.11b, 41.12a, 41.12b

If

it's

less than that, the

illustrations).

SCREWDRIVER

r

clip

PARKING ROD

41.10 Insert feeler gauges between the

Low-Reverse band end to measure wear if the gap is less than 0.080-inch, a new band is needed

41.11a Use a screwdriver to pry off the parking rod E-clip .

.

41.11b ... then lower the rod from the transaxle

3 5

1-30

41

.1

Chapter

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

2a Loosen the locknut the specified

41.12b

number of turns

It

may be necessary to use

41.15 Push the shift pawl with your finger before inserting the parking rod

a

between the socket and extension when tightening the LowReverse band adjusting screw

universal joint

them

42

Driveaxle boot check (every

30,000 miles or 24 months) Refer to 1

If

illustration

42.3

the driveaxle boots are

deteriorated, serious

occur to the

CV joints

damaged

or

and costly damage can the boots are designed

The boots should be inspected very carefully at the recommended intervals. 2 Raise the front of the vehicle and to protect.

securely on jackstands (see Jacking and towing at the front of this manual

support if

42.3 Push on the boot to check for

damage and

look for signs of grease (arrow) indicating a leak

it

to the intake manifold during normal engine operation. 2 The most common symptom of a fault in the evaporative emissions system is a strong fuel odor in the engine compartment. If a fuel odor is detected, inspect the charcoal canister, located in the engine compartment on the passenger's side, behind the headlight. Check the canister and all hoses for

damage and

3

system

Loosen the locknut approximately five Use an inch-pound tighten the adjusting screw torque wrench to to the torque listed

in

this

Chapter's Specifi-

1

Back the screw

off

the specified

Crawl under the vehicle and check the

very carefully for cracks, tears, holes, deterio-

If

the boots are

them clean before beginning the 4

If

damage

dirty,

44

or deterioration

is

the

CV joints

for

evident,

new ones and check damage (see Chapter 8).

number

tighten the locknut securely.

Evaporative emissions control system check (every 30,000 miles or 24 months)

Push the shift pawl in the transaxle case to the rear and reinstall the parking rod (see

The

43

Hold the adjusting screw

in

position

and

1

illustration).

16

Install

the pan and

(see Section 40).

refill

the transaxle

1

function

of

the

Seat belt check (every 30,000 miles or 24 months)

wipe

inspection.

replace the boots with

beginning of this Chapter).

14

Chap-

four driveaxle boots (two on each driveaxle)

cations (see illustration). of turns (see the Specifications section at the

control in

necessary).

3

(see illustration).

12

is

deterioration.

evaporative emissions explained in more detail

ter 6.

rated rubber and loose or missing clamps

turns (see illustration).

The

evaporative

emissions control system is to draw fuel vapors from the gas tank and fuel system, store them in a charcoal canister and route

1

Check the seat

plates

belts,

and guide loops

for

buckles, latch

obvious

damage

and signs of wear. 2 See if the seat belt reminder light comes on when the key is turned to the Run or Start positions. A chime should also sound. 3 The seat belts are designed to lock up during a sudden stop or impact, yet allow movement during normal driving. Make sure the retractors return the belt against

free

your chest while driving and rewind the belt fully when the buckle is unlatched. any of the above checks reveal 4 If problems with the seat belt system, replace parts as necessary.

1

2A-1

Chapter 2 Part A 2.2L and 2.5L four-cylinder engines Contents Section

Camshaft and hydraulic lash adjusters/rocker arms inspection and installation Camshaft oil seal - replacement Crankshaft front

oil

seal

-

-

-

10 7

removal and

9

See Chapter 2D installation

and replacement Engine mounts - check, replacement and adjustment Engine oil and filter change Drivebelt check, adjustment

Engine overhaul - general information Engine - removal and installation Flywheel/driveplate - removal and installation General information Intake/exhaust manifold - removal and installation

Section Intermediate shaft

replacement

Cylinder compression check Cylinder head

removal,

1

See Chapter

1

16 See Chapter 1 See Chapter 2D See Chapter 2D 14 1

replacement

8 12 Oil pump - removal, inspection and installation 13 Rear main oil seal - replacement 15 Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle 2 Spark plug replacement See Chapter 1 Timing belt and sprockets - removal, inspection Oil

oil

removal and

pan

-

and

installation

seal

installation

Top Dead Center (TDC) Valve cover

Valves

-

-

for

removal and

-

number one

-

pump

-

removal and

6 3 4

locating

installation

See Chapter 2D

servicing

Valve springs, retainers and seals

Water

piston

-

replacement

17

See Chapter 3

installation

5

Specifications

General 1-3-4-2

Firing order

numbers Bore and stroke

Cylinder

(drivebelt end-to-transaxle end)

1

Q©@®

-2-3-4

2.2L

3.44 X 3.62 inches

2.5L

3.44 X 4.09 inches

0(*®\d

Displacement 2.2L

135 cubic inches 153 cubic inches

2.5L

Camshaft SOHC engine

blackened terminal shown distributor cap indicates the Number One spark plug 7"he

on the

Endplay Runout

0.005 to 0.013 inch 0.0004 inch

Journal diameter

Standard Oversize DOHC engine Endplay Journal diameter

Lobe wear (maximum) 1982 thru 1984 2.2L engine All

others

Warpage

1.375 to 1.376 inch

1.395 to 1.396 inch 0.001 to 0.008 inch

1.886 to 1.887 inch

0.005 inch 0.010 inch

limits

warpage limit (all engines) Intake/exhaust manifold warpage limit

Cylinder head

SOHC engine DOHC engine Oil

0.004 inch

0.008 0.006

in

per foot of manifold length

in

per foot of manifold length

pump

Outer rotor-to-housing clearance Standard Service

limit

Outer rotor thickness 1982 thru 1985 2.2L engines Standard Service All

limit

0.010 inch 0.014 inch

0.826 to 0.827 inch 0.825 inch

others

Standard Service

^ont

limit

0.944 to 0.945 inch 0.9435 inch

wire position

Cylinder location and distributor rotation

2A

2A " 2 Oil

Chapter 2 Part

pump

A

2.2L a nd 2.5L four-cylinder engines

(continued)

Inner rotor-to-outer rotor tip clearance

1982 thru 1985 2.2L engines standard Service All

0.010 inch 0.010 inch

limit

others

standard Service

0.004 inch 0.008 inch

limit

and outer rotor-to-housing clearance

Inner

Standard Service

Pump

001 t0 003 incn 0.0035 inch

limit

cover flatness

1982 thru 1985 2.2 engines standard Service All

limit

0.010 inch 0.015 inch

maximum

0.002 inch 0.003 inch

maximum

others

standard Service

limit

Relief spring free length

1

Torque specifications

95 ncn j

Ft-| b s (unless otherwise indicated)

Camshaft

SOHC engines Bearing cap bolts 1987 and earlier 1988 on Sprocket bolt

165 215 55

jn .| bs

in-lbs

DOHC

* engines Thrust plate retaining nut Sprocket bolt Crankshaft

55 to 72 47

in-lbs

SOHC engines Front

oil

seal housing bolts

Pulley Torx

head

105 250

bolts

Sprocket bolt 1987 through 1989 1990 on DOHC engines Sprocket bolt

'

Cylinder head bolts (engine cold)

-

SOHC and DOHC

in-lbs

50 85

80 280

Pulley bolts

in-lbs

in-lbs

engines

1982 thru 1985 First

step

Third step

30 45 45

Fourth step

1/4 turn

Second step

1986 on First

step

45 65 65

Second step Third step

Fourth step

1/4-turn

Driveplate-to-crankshaft bolts

Exhaust manifold bolts

(DOHC

50 engines)

210

in-lbs

65 70 16 200

in-lbs

Flywheel-to-crankshaft bolts

1982 thru 1985 1986 on

!"."".""!

Intake/exhaust manifold nuts/bolts Intake manifold bolts

(DOHC

(SOHC

engines)

engines)

Intermediate shaft

SOHC

engines

housing bolts Sprocket bolt DOHC engines Sprocket bolt Oil pan drain plug pan-to-engine block fasteners SOHC engines Oil seal

Oil

M8 M6

105 65

in-lbs

53 20

16 105 in-lbs

Chapter 2 Part

A

2.2L and 2.5L four-cylinder engines

Torque specifications Oil

Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)

pan-to-engine block fasteners (continued)

DOHC

engines

M8 M6

21

18

pump

Oil

pick-up tube-to-oil

Oil

pump cover bolts pump mounting bolts

Oil

2A-3

housing bolt

16

105

Rear main oil seal housing bolts Rocker arm assemblies (DOHC engine)

105

in-lbs

105 in-lbs 17

Initial

Final

Timing

in-lbs

21

belt

SOHC

engines Tensioner bolt DOHC engines Tensioner bolt

45

40 40

Idler pulley bolt

Valve cover bolts/nuts

pump hub

Water

(all

105

engines)

bolt

in-lbs

21

2A components, such as oil pan pump), the water pump, the

Exterior engine

General information

engine in place. Since the cylinder head can be removed without pulling the engine, camshaft and valve component servicing can also be

wheels. Also, disable the ignition system by disconnecting the electrical connector(s) from the distributor or, on models equipped with a Direct Ignition System (DIS), by disconnecting the electrical connectors at the ignition module (see Chapter 5). Remove the spark plugs (see Chapter 1). 4 In order to bring any piston to TDC, the crankshaft must be turned using one of the

accomplished with the engine in the vehicle. Replacement of the timing belt and sprockets

front

the intake and exhaust manifolds, the

(and the This Part of Chapter 2

devoted to invehicle repair procedures for the 2.2L and 2.5L four-cylinder engines. All information concerning engine removal and installation and engine block and cylinder head overhaul can be found in Part D of this Chapter. The following repair procedures are based on the assumption that the engine is installed in the vehicle. If the engine has been removed from the vehicle and mounted on a stand, many of the steps outlined in this Part of Chapter 2 will

is

not apply.

The Specifications included in this Part of Chapter 2 apply only to the procedures contained in this Part. Part D of Chapter 2 contains the Specifications necessary for cylinder head and engine block rebuilding.

2

and the removed

is

Refer to

from the vehicle. Clean the engine compartment and the exterior of the engine with some type of degreaser before any work is done. It will

make

the job easier and help keep

dirt

out of

the internal areas of the engine. Depending on the components involved, it may be

in

the vehicle.

and 3.8 Note: The following procedure

is

distributor are correctly installed.

TDC

feeling for

the

engine as to Chapter 1 1

to

improve

repairs

are

performed (refer if necessary). Cover the fenders to prevent damage to the paint. Special pads are available, but an old bedspread or blanket will also work. If vacuum, exhaust, oil or coolant leaks develop, indicating a need for gasket or seal replacement, the repairs can generally be

with the engine in the vehicle. The and exhaust manifold gaskets, oil pan gasket, crankshaft oil seals and cylinder head gasket are all accessible with the engine in place.

crankshaft

The preferred method is to turn the crankshaft with a socket and ratchet to the bolt

threaded into the

A remote starter switch, which may save some time, can also be used. Follow the instructions included with the switch.

Once the piston is close to TDC, use a socket and ratchet as deschbed in the previous paragraph. c)

If

an assistant

is

available to turn the

ignition switch to the Start position in

Make sure your assistant is out of the vehicle, away from the ignition switch, then use a socket and ratchet as described in Paragraph a) to complete switch.

to install the distributor

must be determined compression at the number one

and

to

remove the hood

b)

based on and If you are

intake

to

looking at the

front of the crankshaft.

correctly, piston position

by

When

normal

engine,

clockwise.

attached

the assumption that the spark plug wires trying to locate

is

the

short bursts, you can get the piston close to TDC without a remote starter

made

helpful

a)

outlined below.

of

rotation

illustrations 3.6

spark plug hole, then aligning the ignition timing marks as described in step 8. Top Dead Center (TDC) is the highest 1 point in the cylinder that each piston reaches as it travels up-and-down when the crankshaft turns. Each piston reaches TDC on the compression stroke and again on the exhaust stroke, but TDC generally refers to piston position on the compression stroke. Positioning the piston(s) at TDC is an 2 essential part of many procedures such as camshaft and timing belt/sprocket removal

access

methods

Top Dead Center (TDC) for number one piston - locating

Many major

accomplished without removing the engine

system components can be

In extreme cases caused by a lack of necessary equipment, repair or replacement of piston rings, pistons, connecting rods and rod bearings is possible with the engine in the vehicle. However, this practice is not recommended because of the cleaning and preparation work that must be done to the components involved.

3

can be

fuel

for repair with the

also possible with the engine

Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle repair operations

oil

starter motor, the alternator, the distributor

distributor removal.

Before beginning this procedure, be 3 sure to place the transmission in Neutral and apply the parking brake or block the rear

the procedure. is powered by a 2.2L engine with Direct Ignition System (DIS), you won't be able to perform the following procedure entirely (those steps concerning the crankshaft pulley still apply; those steps concerning the position of the distributor rotor don't apply - 2.2L DOHC engines don't have a distributor). Instead, you'll have to remove the spark plug for the number one cylinder and place your finger over the spark plug hole verify to compression. When the piston in the number one cylinder comes up to TDC on the compression stroke, the valves will be closed, so you'll be able to feel the pressure

5

the vehicle

If

DOHC

at the

spark plug hole;

up on the exhaust

if

the piston

is

coming

stroke, the exhaust valve

2A-4

A

Chapter 2 Part

2.2L and 2.5L four-cylinder engines can be located by turning the crankshaft and following the firing order.

Mark the remaining

spark plug wire terminal locations on the

body

distributor

number one

just like

you did

for the

number the marks the cylinder numbers. As

terminal, then

to correspond with

you turn the crankshaft, the rotor will also turn. When it's pointing directly at one of the marks on the distributor, the piston for that particular cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke. On models with a Distributorless Ignition System, rotate the engine 180-degrees rotation to find

On four-cylinder engines, use a feltmarker or chalk to mark the distributor housing directly beneath the number one

3.8

3.6

tip

When you're bringing the number one

piston to TDC, look at the timing

edge

the normal direction of

for the next cylinder in

firing order.

mark on the

of the ftywheel/drtveplate through the

opening

spark plug wire terminal (arrow)

the

in

TDC

in

the bellhousing, and align the

Valve cover

mark with the O-degree mark on the bellhousing - you may have to remove a plug

removal and

-

installation

from the bellhousing to see the flywheel

SOHC engines will

be open, so you won't

feel

pressure at

the plug hole.

Note the position of the terminal for the wire on the distributor terminal isn't marked, follow cap. If the the plug wire from the number one cylinder spark plug to the cap. Use a felt-tip pen or chalk to make a mark on the distributor body directly under the terminal (see illus6

number one spark plug

Detach the cap from the distributor and set it aside (see Chapter 1 if necessary). 8 Locate the round window in the bellhousing. You'll see the timing increments on the edge of the window. Turn the crankshaft (see Paragraph 3 above) until the TDC mark (zero) on the edge of the bellhousing is aligned with the groove in the 7

Look

at the distributor rotor

be pointing

directly at the

the distributor body.

If

-

it

should

mark you made on

the rotor

is

pointing

mark, go to Step 12. If it isn't, go to Step 10. If 10 the rotor is 180-degrees off, the number one piston is at TDC on the exhaust at the

stroke. 11 To get the piston to TDC on the compression stroke, turn the crankshaft one complete turn (360-degrees) clockwise. The rotor should now be pointing at the mark on

the distributor.

When

the rotor

is

pointing at

the number one spark plug wire terminal in the distributor cap and the ignition timing

4.4a

An exploded view of a typical valve cover assembly (SOHC engines)

4.4b

Remove

the valve cover bolts (arrows) (SOHC engines)

marks are aligned, the number one piston is at TDC on the compression stroke. 12 After the number one piston has been positioned at TDC on the compression stroke, TDC for any of the remaining pistons

4.5 Carefully pry the valve cover off the

cylinder head be careful not to bend the rails, which could cause oil leaks later on -

(SOHC

Refer to 1

illustrations 4.4a, 4.4b, 4.5

engines)

and 4.6

Detach the cable from the negative

battery terminal.

Detach the accelerator cable from the

2

cable bracket. 3

Wipe

off

the valve cover thoroughly to

prevent debris from

flywheel (see illustration).

9

tration).

Removal

head

cylinder

onto the exposed camshaft/valve train

falling

or

assembly. Remove the upper half of the timing belt 4 cover (see Section 6). Remove the valve cover bolts (see illustrations). «. Carefully lift off the valve cover and 5 gasket. If the gasket is stuck to the cylinder head, use a putty knife or flat-bladed screwdriver to remove it (see illustration). Set the cover aside. the vehicle is fuel-injected or turbo, note a "curtain" under the valve cover. If you're simply replacing a leaking valve cover gasket, you don't need to remove the

6

If

you'll

curtain.

If

you want to adjust the valves or

service the camshaft assembly or cylinder

head, remove the curtain (see illustration). Don't lose the two small rubber "bumpers" which act as cushions between the curtain

and the valve cover.

4.6 Lift the curtain off the cylinder

(SOHC

engines)

head

61

8

7

Chapter 2 Part

A

2.2L and 2.5L four-cylinder engines

2A-5 IGNITION CABIE COVER FASTENERS

\.J

•

L._ 4.13

Remove these

(arrows) and 4.9a Pull the tabs (arrows) through the

housing, insuring the seal is flush against the valve cover. Make sure the gasket overlaps the rubber seal at the corners (SOHC engines)

Make

7

4.9a

illustrations

remove the

ignition cable

cover from the valve covers

(DOHC

engines)

GASKET

17

Installation

Refer to

4.9b Apply a small amount of RTV sealant to the corners of the cylinder head to prevent oil leaks (SOHC engines)

four fasteners

Install

the ignition

cable cover and

tighten the fasteners securely.

and 4.9b

sure the gasket mating surfaces of

the fresh

duct (see Chapter

1

Install

5

Intake/exhaust manifold

air

2A 4).

the cylinder head and the valve cover are clean.

8

equipped with a curtain has been removed), install it now,

the engine

If

(and

it

manifold side

is

contacting the cylinder head

then press the opposite (distributor)

floor,

side into position below the gasket mating

Be sure

surface.

on top 9

the

Install

to install the rubber

bumpers

of the curtain.

new gaskets on

Install

the valve cover.

molded rubber seals

to the

ends

of

the cover by pushing the tabs through the slots

the cover (see illustration). Apply a

in

RTV

1/8-inch wide bead of

sealant to the

head rail (see illustration), then install the cover and bolts and tighten them to the cylinder

torque

listed in this

Chapter's Specifications.

Turbo versions of the newer 2.2L engine molded one-piece rubber gasket, but

10

also use a

the gasket

molded

slot

gasket. rail

1

attached

and

differently.

into the valve

Install

A

continuous

cover retains the

the gasket by pressing the gasket

section into the

bolts this

is

slot. Install

the cover and

tighten the bolts to the torque listed

in

Chapter's Specifications.

The remainder

of

installation

is

the

reverse of removal.

DOHC engines Refer to illustrations

12

Remove

4.

Remove

13

the fresh

and 4. 16 air

duct (see Chap-

the ignition cable cover (see

solvents contact the timing

deteriorate the rubber

belt,

as they can

and cause

the teeth

to skip.

the valve covers and gaskets (see on the head and tighten the bolts

illustration)

to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifi-

cations.

heater or clothes dryer) with a pilot light is If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel present.

system, wear safety glasses and have a Class

B

type

fire

extinguisher on hand.

SOHC engines (except turbos) Removal Refer to illustrations

5.

15

and

5.

18

On

these models the throttle body assembly and intake manifold must be removed as a unit before the exhaust manifolds can be removed.

Note:

Relieve the fuel system pressure (see 1 Chapter 4). 2 Detach the cable from the negative

ter

Drain the cooling system (see

A

valve cover with the gasket (DOHC engines)

correctly positioned

11 Raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Detach the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold (see Chapter 4). 12 Remove the power steering pump (if equipped) and set it aside (see Chapter 10). 13 Remove the intake manifold support bracket and detach the EGR tube from the exhaust manifold. 14 If you're working on a Canadian model with a 2.2L engine, you may have to remove the air injection tube assembly. 15 Remove the intake manifold fasteners (see illustration). 16 Lower the vehicle. 1

Remove

the throttle body and the intake

manifold as a single assembly. Detach the throttle body and gasket from the intake manifold (see Chapter 4) after the unit is on the bench.

Chap-

1).

4

Remove

5

Clearly label, then detach

the

air

cleaner (see Chapter all

4).

vacuum

and fuel lines. Detach the accelerator cable from the throttle linkage (see Chapter 4). Loosen the power steering pump (if 7 equipped) and remove the drivebelt (see Chapter 1). Detach the power brake vacuum hose 8 lines, electrical wiring

14 Remove the six bolts from each valve cover and remove the valve covers. 15 Before installing the valve covers, clean the mating surfaces of the cylinder head and valve covers. Caution: Make sure no oil or

Install

a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water

battery terminal.

illustration).

1

4.16

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don 't smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don't work in a garage where

3

ter 4).

13

installation

with the cutouts over the

first,

cam towers and

removal and

-

6

from the intake manifold. If you're working on a Canadian model 9 with a 2.2L engine, you may have to remove the coupling hose from the air injection tube. 10 Remove the water hoses from the coolant crossover lines.

5.15 Intake manifold fasteners (2.2L TBI engine)

9

2A-6

Chapter 2 Part

A

2.2L and 2.5L four-cylinder engines

d)

Position the intake manifold on the head. Raise the vehicle and support it securely

surface. Discard the old gaskets and clean both surfaces (manifolds and cylinder head).

e)

on jackstands. Working under the

39 Check the gasket mating surfaces of the manifolds for flatness with a precision straightedge and feeler gauges. Refer to this Chapter's Specifications for the warpage

c)

manifold

intake

vehicle, install the

bolts

Starting at the center

finger

tight.

and working out

both directions, tighten the bolts

in

in

a

criss-cross pattern until the torque listed in

Chapter's

this

Specifications

is

reached.

The

25

remainder

procedure

is

of

the

instaflation

limit.

40

Inspect

the

manifolds

corrosion and damage.

for

cracks,

warped or cracked, an automotive machine shop may be able to resurface/repair them. If

they're

the reverse of removal.

Installation

Turbo

5.18 Exhaust manifold fasteners (2.2L TBI engine)

Removal Refer to

18

Remove

the exhaust manifold nuts (see

and

detach

the exhaust manifold. Discard the old gaskets and clean all gasket mating surfaces. 1 Clean the manifolds with solvent and dry illustration)

them with compressed air. 20 Check the mating surfaces

of

the

manifolds for flatness with a precision straightedge and feeler gauges. Refer to this Chapter's Specifications for the warpage limit.

21

SOHC engines

t

Inspect the manifolds for cracks and

distortion.

22

If the manifolds are cracked or warped, replace them or see if they can be resurfaced/repaired at an automotive machine shop.

26

illustration

Disconnect the negative cable from the

27 ter

Drain the cooling system (see Chap-

28

Raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. 29 Remove the front engine mount through bolt and rotate the engine away from the

the nuts.

cowl.

Working under the vehicle, remove the turbocharger (see Chapter 4). 31 Lower the vehicle. 32 Working in the engine compartment, remove the air cleaner assembly along with the throttle body, hose and air cleaner box and bracket (see Chapter 4). 33 Disconnect the throttle linkage and throttle body electrical connector and 30

Position the fuel rail out of the way (complete with injectors, wiring harness and fuel line) by removing the hose retainer bracket screw, the four bracket screws from the intake manifold and the two retaining clips (see Chapter 4). 35 Disconnect the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing.

36

Remove

the bolts and nuts securing the and exhaust manifolds (see illus-

Starting at the center, tighten the nuts in

intake

a criss-cross pattern until the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications is reached.

tration).

37 38

in

Remove

gasket. Note: Don't use

the manifolds as an assembly.

Place the manifolds on a clean working

INTAKE MANIFOLD

in both directions, tighten the 1/4-turn increments to the torque this Chapter's Specifications.

43

Place the intake manifold in position and the bolts and washers. Working from the center out in both directions, tighten the install

bolts

in

at the

34

install

nuts

listed in

vacuum hoses.

on the cylinder head and

new

a

42 Place the exhaust manifold in position. Apply anti-seize compound to the threads and install the mounting nuts. Working from

1).

23

you're replacing either manifold, transfer the studs from the old manifold to the new one. 24 When working on a SOHC engine: a) Apply a thin coat of gasket sealant to the manifold sides of the new gaskets and place them in position on the manifolds. b) Place the exhaust manifold in position

Install

the center out

battery.

Installation If

5.36

41

sealant on the manifold gasket.

1/4-turn increments until

torque

listed in this

all bolts are Chapter's Specifi-

cations.

44

Place the turbocharger in position on the exhaust manifold (see Chapter 4). Apply anti-seize compound to the threads and install the retaining nuts. Tighten the nuts to the torque listed

Chapter's Specifica-

in this

tions. Tighten the

connector tube clamps

securely.

45 Install the coolant return tube in the water box connector, tighten the tube nut and install the tube support bracket on the cylinder head.

46 Connect the turbocharger oil feed line. 47 Install the air cleaner assembly and reconnect the throttle linkage, wires and

vacuum hoses. 48 49 50

the fuel rail (see Chapter 4). Reconnect the exhaust pipe. Connect the upper radiator hose to the Install

thermostat housing. 51 Fill the cooling system (see Chapter 52 Connect the negative battery cable.

1).

DOHC engine Intake manifold

Removal Refer to

illustrations

5.63

and 5.66

53 Relieve the fuel system pressure (see Chapter 4). 54 Detach the cable from the negative terminal of the battery.

55 56

EXHAUST MANIFOLD

5.36 Intake/exhaust manifold fasteners on the turbo engine

Drain the cooling system (see Chapter

Remove

1).

duct from the air filter housing and the inlet hose from the intercooler (see Chapter 4). 57 Detach the radiator hose from the thermostat housing (see Chapter 3). 58 Remove the DIS ignition coils from the intake manifold (see Chapter 5). 59 Detach the accelerator and cruise control cables from the engine (see Chapter 4). 60 Disconnect the intercooler-to-throttle body outlet hose (see Chapter 4). the fresh

air

Chapter 2 Part A 2.2L and 2.5L four-cylinder engines

2A-7

PCV SYSTEM BREATHER/SEPERATOR

5.66 Intake manifold mounting bolts (turbo

DOHC

engine)

2A

vacuum hoses for the brake booster, the vacuum vapor harness hose, the fuel pressure regulator harness, the PCV vacuum hose and breather/separator box from the intake manifold and unplug the electrical connector for the charge temperature sensor (turbo DOHC engine)

5.63 Detach the

Disconnect the vacuum hoses from the throttle body and remove the vacuum harness (see Chapter 4). 61

Unplug the electrical connectors from the Automatic Idle Speed (AIS) motor (see Chapter 6) and the Throttle Position Sensor 62

(TPS) (see Chapter

4).

Detach the vacuum hoses for the brake booster, the vacuum vapor harness and the fuel pressure regulator harness (see illus-

63

tration).

Remove

the

PCV

breather/separator

box (see Chapter 6). 64 Unplug the charge temperature sensor (see illustration 5.63). Unplug the electrical

damage

and,

if

The mounting

5.82

necessary, replace them (see

Chapter 4). Lubricate the fuel tube with clean 30-weight engine oil, connect the fuel supply and return hoses to the chassis fuel lines. Check each connection by pulling on the connector to verify that it's locked together. 71 Reconnect the fuel injector, charge temperature sensor, Automatic Idle Speed (AIS) and Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)

clamps securely. 74 Reattach the accelerator

housing.

Install

a

new

and head and

intake manifold gasket

deviation listed

in this

85

the

Inspect

distortion.

and

68

head.

84 Test the manifold and cylinder head gasket surfaces for flatness with a precision straightedge and a feeler gauge. These surfaces must be flat within the allowable

86

75 Install the DIS ignition coil pack (see Chapter 5). 76 Install the upper radiator hose and tighten the hose clamps securely. 77 Fill the cooling system (see Chapter 1). 78 Attach the fresh air duct to the air filter

Installation

83 Discard the old gasket and clean the mating surfaces of the manifold and cylinder

Reconnect the vacuum hoses to the throttle body (see Chapter 4). 73 Install the hose between the intercooler and the throttle body and tighten the hose 72

control cables (see Chapter

and

speed

4).

for the exhaust manifold engine)

DOHC

electrical connectors.

connector for the fuel injector harness. 65 Disconnect the fuel supply and return hose fittings (see Chapter 4). 66 Remove the eight intake manifold bolts (see illustration) and remove the intake manifold. Note that each bolt has a washer don't lose these washers. 67 Discard the gasket and clean all gasket surfaces of the manifold (see Steps 38, 39 40).

and nuts

bolts

(turbo

Chapter's Specifications.

manifold

Replace if necessary. a new manifold gasket. Do

exhaust manifold and and working your way - tighten the mounting in both directions out bolts and nuts to the torque listed in this 87

Install

the

starting at the center

Chapter's Specifications.

88 Install the turbocharger assembly (see Chapter 4).

6

79 Attach the inlet hose to the intercooler and tighten the hose clamp securely. 80 Connect the cable to the negative

Timing belt and sprockets removal, inspection and

-

installation

Exhaust manifold

Timing belt removal

69 Install the PCV breather/separator box and the vacuum harness assembly. Connect the brake booster, vacuum vapor harness and vacuum hose to the fuel pressure

Refer

Refer to

regulator.

mounting bolts and nuts and remove the

2

70

manifold (see illustration).

Chapter

this

NOT

apply any type of sealant.

SOHC engines

tighten the fasteners to the torque listed

cracks or

Install

battery cable.

intake manifold onto the cylinder

for

in

Chapter's Specifications.

Inspect the quick-connect fittings for

81

to illustration

Remove

Chapter 4). 82 Remove

5.82

the turbocharger assembly (see

nine

exhaust

manifold

6.6a 6.6b,

and 6.8c Detach the cable from the negative

6.6c, 6.7. 6.8a. 6.8b 1

all

illustrations 6.3, 6.4, 6.5,

battery terminal.

Remove 1).

all

accessory drivebelts (see

2A-8

Chapter 2 Part

A

2.2L and 2.5L four-cylinder engines

CRANKSHAFT PULLEY

SCREW

WATER PUMP

SPLASH

PULLEY

SHIELD

SCREW 6.3 Details of the crankshaft

pump

6.6a

pulleys

Remove

(SOHC

engines)

the two bolts (arrows) that

secure the upper timing cover to the valve cover (SOHC engines)

Remove

the four Torx head bolts (arrows) from the crankshaft pulley (SOHC engines)

6.4

and water

the timing belt cover to the cylinder head and

illustration).

halves of the timing belt cover.

Raise the vehicle, support it securely on 5 jackstands and remove the right inner splash shield (see illustration). Remove the crankshaft pulley.

7

6

Remove

you have correctly positioned the piston at TDC, the marks on the crankshaft and intermediate shaft sprockets will be aligned (SOHC engines)

crankshaft pulley

(SOHC

engines)

block

(see

BOLT

the screws and nuts holding illustrations).

Position the

6.6c Remove the fasteners and detach the two timing belt cover halves

Remove both

number one

piston at

(SOHC

Top

Dead Center on the compression stroke (see 3). The marks on the crankshaft and

Use a wrench

engines)

to loosen the center bolt,

Section

8

intermediate shaft sprocket will be aligned (see illustration) and the arrows on the camshaft sprocket will line up with the bearing cap parting line (see illustration

releasing the tension from the timing belt.

Remove

the belt (see illustrations).

the tensioner. Note:

If

the engine

is

Remove

equipped

remove the air condicompressor (see Chapter 3) and the

with air conditioning, tioning

6.19).

6.7

and detach the right remove the

inner splash shield to

6.6b Remove the bolts (arrows) from the lower timing cover (the third bolt is located behind the water pump) (SOHC engines)

Remove the bolts and detach the water pump pulley (see illustration). 4 Remove the crankshaft pulley bolts (see 3

6.5 Raise the vehicle

If

number one

6.8a

Loosen the tensioner locking and remove the tensioner

(SOHC

engines)

bolt

6.8b

Remove

the

air

conditioning

compressor, then unscrew the bolts (arrows) and lift off the compressor bracket from the engine (SOHC engines)

1

Chapter 2 Part A 2.2L and 2.5L four-cylinder engines

2A-9 Rounded

CAMSHAFT

TIMING BELT COVER UPPER

SPROCKET

belt tide

SEAL

Separation

Abnormal wear (Fluffy

Flank

worn

canvas

fiber)

Rubber exposed

(On load sidel

Tooth missing and canvas fiber

exposed

6.10 Carefully inspect the timing belt for the conditions shown here

(SOHC) engines 16

25L'

Make

sure the Woodruff keys are

place, then install the crankshaft

An exploded view

6.8c

of the timing belt

and related components (SOHC engines)

and

in

inter-

mediate shaft sprockets. Turn the shafts

until

the marks are aligned (see illustration).

17

bracket (see illustration). Also, in order to remove the belt from the engine compartment, it is necessary to support the engine with a block of wood and a floor jack and remove the engine mount.

Timing

tensioner and sprocket

belt,

inspection Refer to

9

illustration 6.

10

Rotate the tensioner pulley by hand and

move

it side-to-side to detect roughness and excessive play. Replace it if it doesn't turn smoothly or if play is noted. 10 Inspect the timing belt for cracks, wear, signs of stretching, ply separation and damaged or missing teeth. Look for contamination by oil, gasoline, coolant and other liquids, which could damage the belt (see illustration). Replace the belt if it's worn or damaged. Note: Unless the engine has very low mileage, it's common practice to replace

the timing belt with a

removed. Don't

6.13

A

pin

new one

reinstall

spanner

every time

it's

the original belt

(or

homemade

substitute like the one shown here) will hold the intermediate shaft sprocket while

the bolt

is

loosened (SOHC engines)

unless

it's

like-new condition. Never questionable condition.

in

a belt in 1 Visually inspect the sprockets for wear and damage. If any of the sprockets are damaged or worn, replace them. 12 Inspect the area directly below each sprocket for leaking engine oil. If there is oil below a sprocket, the seal behind that sprocket is leaking and must be replaced (see Sections 7, 8 and 9).

reinstall

Sprocket removal and Refer to

13

installation

illustrations 6. 13, 6. 14, 6.

Remove

16

and

6.

19

spanner or a

homemade

illustration). Pull the

substitute (see

sprocket

off

the shaft.

Remove

the bolt and use a puller to remove the crankshaft sprocket (see illustration).

15 Hold the camshaft sprocket described in Step 13 and remove the then detach the sprocket from the cam.

6.14

Use

the crankshaft sprocket bolt, lock it

from rotating and

tighten the bolt to the torque listed

in this

Chapter's Specifications.

18 bolt

Install

the intermediate shaft sprocket

and tighten

it

to the torque listed

in this

Chapter's Specifications. Double-check to make sure the marks are aligned as shown in illustration 6.16.

19 Install the camshaft sprocket and bolt. Tighten the bolt to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. The triangles on the sprocket hub must align with the camshaft bearing cap parting

line

(see illustration)

the intermediate shaft sprocket

bolt while holding the sprocket with a pin

14

Install

the crankshaft to keep

as bolt,

a puller to get the crankshaft

sprocket

off

(SOHC

engines)

Timing belt Installation Refer to illustrations 6.23 and 6.25

20 When installing the timing belt, the marks on the sprockets MUST BE ALIGNED as described in Steps 16 and 19. 21 Install the timing belt without turning any of the sprockets.

22

Install

the tensioner pulley with the bolt

finger tight.

6.16 Use a straightedge to make sure the marks (dimples) line up with the centers of

the sprocket bolt holes

(SOHC engines)

2A

2A-10

Chapter 2 Part

A

2.2L and 2.5L four-cylinder engines COVER TIMING .HOLE PLUG

6.23

Use a

ruler to

belt deflection

The small hole must be at the top and the triangles on the camshaft sprocket must be aligned with the bearing cap parting line (arrows)

measure the timing

(SOHC

engines)

6.19

(arrow)

(SOHC

engines)

DOHC engines Timing belt removal Refer to

6.35

and 6.37

Detach the cable from the negative

27 With the help of an assistant, apply tension to the timing belt and temporarily tighten the tensioner bolt. Measure the

illustrations 6.29,

23

battery terminal.

deflection of the belt half-way

28 Remove the PCV tube (see Chapter 6). 29 Remove the upper timing belt cover screws (see illustration) and remove the

between the

camshaft sprocket and tensioner

pulley.

Adjust the tensioner until belt deflection is approximately 5/16-inch (see illustration). 24 Turn the crankshaft two complete revolutions in a clockwise direction (viewed from the front). This will align the belt on the pulleys.

Recheck the

belt deflection

and

When

tighten the tensioner pulley. Note:

tightening the tensioner, use two wrenches.

One wrench must keep

the larger bolt in a

cover.

30 Remove all accessory drivebelts (see Chapter 1). 31 Loosen - but don't remove - the lug nuts for the right (passenger's side) front wheel.

Raise the front of the vehicle and place it securely on jackstands. Remove the right front wheel.

Remove

32

illustration 6.5).

number one

TDC

33

the other wrench tightens the smaller bolt

(see Section

(locking bolt).

34 Remove the retaining bolts from the water pump pulley and the crankshaft pulley (see illustration 6.3) and remove both pulleys. Note: Even though the valve timing mark for the engine is on the flywheel, it's a good idea to have a more convenient timing mark for installing the timing belt. So check

Recheck the camshaft timing mark with the timing belt cover installed and the number one piston at TDC on the compression stroke. The small hole in the camshaft sprocket must be centered in the timing belt cover hole (see illustration).

26

The remainder

of

installation

is

the

reverse of removal.

bolt(s) for the crankshaft pulley),

then scribe

or paint an- alignment mark on the crankshaft

sprocket and the block. 35 Remove the idler and tensioner pulleys for the accessory drivebelt (see illustration). 36 Support the engine with a hoist, or a floor jack and a wood block, and remove the right (passenger's side) engine mount (see illustration 16.4b).

37

Remove

the bracket for the accessory

drivebelt idler pulley (see illustration).

Loosen the timing belt tensioner and remove the drivebelt and the idler pulley.

38 the inner splash shield (see

stationary position (adjusted position) while

25

6.25 To check the camshaft timing when the timing belt cover is installed, bring the number one piston to TDC on the compression stroke and verify the small hole in the camshaft sprocket is aligned with the hole in the cover - DO NOT rotate the engine unless the marks are correctly aligned (SOHC engines)

Bring the

piston to

3).

mark on the flywheel one more time (it may have moved when you loosened the the

Caution: Do NOT turn the crankshaft or the camshafts while the drivebelt is removed; if

you move them while the belt is off, they'll have to be re-timed prior to installation of the drivebelt.

Timing belt, tensioner, idler pulley and sprocket inspection 39 Refer to Steps 9 through 12 above for these procedures. Note: Inspect the "idler pulley" the same way you inspect the tensioner.

UPPER TIMING BELT

COVER SCREWS

(2)

ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT IDLER PULLEY BRACKET

LOWER TIMING BELT COVER SCREWS (2)

6.29 Timing belt cover screws

(DOHC

engine)

6.35 Idler pulley and tensioner for the accessory drivebelt (DOHC engine)

6.37 Bracket for the accessory drivebelt idler pulley, idler pulley and timing belt tensioner (DOHC engine)

Chapter 2 Part

A

2.2L and 2.5L four-cylinder engines

2A-11

IDENTIFY SHAFTS FOR INSTALLATION

_0_(z)_®


3

•

CAP REAR

BOTTOM)

FRONT BEARING CAP

CAP NO.

4

WAVED 5.6

WASHER

WAVED WASHER ROCKER ARM, (INTAKE) WITH JET VALVE

5.5

ROCKER ARM, (INTAKE) WITHOUT JET VALVE

An exploded view

of the rocker

illustration). Keep the parts in order so you can reassemble them in the same positions. Thoroughly clean the parts and inspect 6 them for wear and damage. Check the rocker arm faces that contact the camshaft and the adjusting screw tips (see illustration). Check the surfaces of the shafts that the rocker

arms

9

or excessively worn. Also,

holes

bolts finger tight.

make

the shafts are not

in

plugged.

Installation and 5.8b Loosen the locknuts and back off the

Refer to 7

illustrations 5.

adjusters

until

7,

5.8a

they only protrude

1

15

mm

all

oil

the shaft directly

caps (see

in line

Back

off the adjusters until they only protrude 1 (0.040 in)

mm

This procedure is essentially the same as for the 2.2L/2.5L engine. Refer to Part A Section 1 1 and follow the procedure outlined there.

Run the engine and check

for

oil

Intake manifold

7

leaks

Valve springs, retainers and seals -

extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don't smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don't work in a garage where a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water

for the jet valve servicing procedure.

SHAFT, LEFT

IDENTIFICATION

OIL HOLES AT SHAFT BOTTOM)

(12

(2:

FRONT BEARING CAP

illustration 7.11

Warning: Gasoline

replacement

Note: The jet valve is mounted directly beside each intake valve. Refer to Chapter 2, Part D

keep them aligned

removal and

installation

Refer to

6

with the marks on the

illustration) to

5.7

and proper operation.

components with assembly and reassemble the shafts. When installing the rocker arms, shafts and springs, note the markings and the difference between the left and right side parts (see illustration). Place the marks in the end of Lubricate

lube or engine

install

reverse order of removal.

(0.040-inch) (see illustration).

8

arm assemblies on the mounting Note: Check the numbered

Position the rocker

markings on the caps to make sure the caps are in the correct numerical sequence. 10 Tighten the camshaft bearing cap bolts as described in Section 13. 11 Adjust the valve clearances (cold) as described in Chapter 1 12 Temporarily install the valve cover and run the engine until it is fully warmed up. 13 Readjust the valves while the engine is still warm (see Chapter 1). 14 Reinstall the remaining parts in the

rocker arms, for scoring and excessive wear. Replace any parts that are oil

they are ready to be installed onto the

the cylinder head and

ride on, as well as the bearing surfaces

sure the

(typical)

cylinder head.

inside the

damaged

FOR INSTALLATION

arms and shafts

until

Check the contact faces and

adjusting screw tips (arrows)

DIRECTED

NO.

MARK

2, 3:

NO.

is

(CENTER CAP ONLY) 3, 4: NO. 4)

ROCKER SHAFT,

ROCKER SHAFT,

RIGHT

LEFT

MATING MARK

ON

MATING MARK

THE SHAFT

ON

THE SHAFT

SHAFT, RIGHT OIL HOLES AT

(4

SHAFT BOTTOM)

ARROW MATING MARK ON THE CAP

FRONT OF ENGINE 5.8a Install the rocker shafts into the front bearing

cap

5.8b

INDICATING THE FRONT

MATING MARK ON THE CAP

Be sure the mating mark on the cap is aligned with the mating mark on the shaft

7

1

Chapter 2 Part B

2B-5

2.6L four-cylinder engine

GASKET

y ce*. HEAT COWl

SCREW

STUD

FORWARD

7.11

An exploded view

of the

8.9

Remove

heater or clothes dryer) with a pilot light

is

on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a Class B type fire extinguisher on hand.

present.

you

If

spill

any

fuel

Removal Detach the cable from the negative

1

battery terminal.

Drain the cooling system (see Chap-

2 ter

the carburetor

air

Remove the exhaust manifold nuts from the exhaust manifold. Be sure to soak the nuts with penetrating oil before attempting to remove them

heater

8.10

from the exhaust manifold

intake manifold

gasket material from the cylinder head and manifold mating surfaces. Clean the surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone.

18 Install the intake manifold with a new gasket and tighten the bolts finger-tight. Starting at the center and working out in both directions, tighten the bolts

in

pattern until the torque listed

in this

a criss-cross

Chapter's

is reached. 18 The remainder of the installation procedure is the reverse of removal.

Specifications

1).

Remove

4

Clearly label, then detach

the

cleaner (see Chapter

air

lines, electrical wiring

and

all

4).

vacuum

Exhaust manifold

8

intake manifold.

Disconnect the (see Chapter 4).

Remove

1

the fuel

pump and

11

Remove

illustration)

fuel filter

and

4).

the intake manifold bolts (see

and remove the manifold from

the engine.

Installation 12

Clean the manifold with solvent and dry

them with compressed

air.

Warning: Wear

eye protection! 13 Check the mating surfaces of the manifold for flatness with a precision straightedge and feeler gauges. Refer to this Chapter's Specifications for the warpage limit.

14

distortion.

15

the manifold

cracked or warped, replace it or see if it can be resurfaced/repaired at an automotive machine If

is

shop.

16

the exhaust manifold and assembly in position on the head and install the nuts. Starting at

Place

cylinder

the center, tighten the nuts

in

pattern until the torque listed

in this

15

Check

carefully for

defective bolts with

new

parts.

Using a scraper, remove

all

Refer to

Chapter's

reached.

The remainder

of

installation

is

the

Start the engine

and check

for

exhaust

exhaust pipe.

illustrations 8.9

and

8.

10

Disconnect the negative battery cable

1

from the battery. Drain the cooling system (see Chap2 ter

1).

3

•

9

the

air

cleaner (see Chapter

Loosen the power steering remove the belt (see Chapter 1).

removal, inspection and

4).

pump and

Raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Detach the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold (see Chapter 4). Apply penetrating oil to the fastener threads if they are difficult to remove. 5

Disconnect the air injection tube assembly from the air pump and move the tube assembly to one side. 6

7

Silent shaft chain/sprockets

installation

Remove

4

Remove

power steering pump

the

equipped) and set

it

aside (see Chapter

(if

10).

Removal Refer to

illustrations 9.5a. 9.5b, 9.

7

and 9.8

Disconnect the cable from the negative of the battery. Remove the air cleaner assembly. Remove the drivebelts. Remove the 2 1

terminal

alternator,

power steering pump and

air

it equipped, and Warning: 7he air conditioning under high pressure - don't

conditioning compressor,

them system lay

aside. is

disconnect the hoses!

soak the bolts and nuts before attempting to

Remove the valve cover (see Section 4). Remove the two front cylinder head-to-timing chain cover bolts. Caution: Do not loosen

remove them from the manifold. 9 Remove the carburetor air heater from the exhaust manifold assembly (see illus-

any other cylinder head bolts. 4 Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Remove the nght-side splash

tration)

guard.

8

Remove

the heat cowl from the exhaust

Be sure

to

with penetrating

Remove

illustration)

oil

the exhaust manifold nuts (see

and

detach

the

exhaust

manifold. 1

traces of old

is

a criss-cross

head and between the manifold and the

Removal

10

any stripped or broken intake manifold bolts. Replace any 1

13

converter

leaks between the manifold and the cylinder

manifold.

Inspect the manifold for cracks and

lacquer thinner

or acetone.

fuel inlet line at the fuel

them aside (see Chapter

in

reverse of removal.

installation

fuel lines.

Detach the accelerator cable from the throttle linkage (see Chapter 4). 6 Remove the drivebelts (see Chapter 1). Remove the carburetor from the intake 7 manifold (see Chapter 4). 8 Remove the coolant hoses from the

lay

surfaces with a rag soaked

14

removal and

5

filter

12 Discard the old gaskets and use a scraper to clean the gasket mating surfaces on the manifold and head, then clean the

Specifications

3

9

Installation

Separate the front catalytic converter

from the exhaust manifold.

3

Remove

the large bolt at the front of

the crankshaft and slide the pulley

off.

Note:

To keep the crankshaft from turning while you're removing this bolt, remove the starter (see Chapter 5) and wedge a large screwdhver into the flywheel/dnveplate nng gear. If

2B

4 1

Chapter 2 Part B 2.6L four-cylinder engine

2B-6

CHAIN CASE COVER GASKET

Remove the

and from separate the engine mount

9.5a

bolts (arrows)

COVER

SCREW

the chassis

SEAL

9.5b Engine mounting plate

9.7 Timing chain cover installation details

installation details

the pulley

does not come

off easily, pullers

are available at auto parts stores that

make removal 5

will

and

easy.

Position a floor jack with a block of

the engine block can

damage

the gasket

end

of the crankshaft in place. -Do not lose

sealing surfaces.

the keys that index the sprockets to the

wood on

8

Remove the chain guides labeled A, B and C (see illustration). Each guide is held in

shafts.

Inspection

mount (see

place by two bolts. Again, draw a simple diagram showing the location of each bolt so that it can be returned to the same hole from

the jack head under the engine. Jack the engine up slightly to relieve the pressure and remove the right-side engine illustration).

Remove

the engine

mounting plate and the timing indicator from the timing cover (see illustration). 6 Drain the engine oil and remove the oil pan (see Section 1 5). 7

Remove

the bolts attaching the timing

chain cover to the engine block (see illustration). Draw a simple diagram showing the location of each of the bolts so they can be returned to the same holes from which they were removed. Tap the timing chain cover with a soft-faced hammer to break the gasket seal, then remove the cover from the engine block. Caution: Prying between the cover

which it was removed. 9 Reinstall the large bolt in the end of the crankshaft. Hold it in place with a wrench to prevent the crankshaft from turning while loosening the bolt on the end of the rear (firewall side) silent shaft,

the rear silent shaft drive sprocket to the

pump

shaft

and the

bolt in the

'

CHAIN GUIDE

B'

end

or

worn rollers. Replace any defective worn parts with new ones.

Installation Refer to

the crankshaft sprocket, the silent shaft sprockets and the chain off the engine as an assembly. Leave the bolt in the

10

Inspect the chain for cracked side plates and pitted or

oil

of the

front (radiator side) silent shaft.

Slide

DISTRIBUTOR GEAR

BOLT

the bolt attaching

Check the sprocket teeth for wear and 1 damage. Check the sprocket cushion rings and ring guides (silent shaft sprockets only) for wear and damage. Rotate the cushion rings and check for smooth operation.

CAMSHAFT SPROCKET

"B"

12

illustrations 9. 16a, 9.

16b*and

9.

16c

Before installing the silent shaft chain

and sprockets, the timing chain must be properly installed and the number one piston must be at TDC on the compression stroke. Both silent shafts and the oil pump must also be in place. 13 Slide the crankshaft sprocket part way onto the front of the crankshaft by lining up the keyway in the sprocket with the key on

SPRING PIN

the shaft. 1 Install the front silent shaft sprocket part way. The dished or recessed side of the front silent shaft sprocket must face out. Install the silent shaft chain onto the crankshaft sprocket and the front silent shaft sprocket.

Line up the plated links on the chain with the

mating marks stamped into the sprockets

FLANGE BOLTS

(see illustration 9.16c). 15 With the dished or recessed side facing in,

slide rear silent shaft sprocket part

way

onto the lower oil pump gear shaft. Line up the plated link on the chain with the mating FLANGE BOLT

TIMING CHAIN

CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET

mark on the sprocket. Push the sprockets

TENSION GUIDE

all

the

way onto

silent shaft

their respective

up the keyways in the sprockets on the shafts. Simultaneously, push the crankshaft sprocket back until it bottoms on the crankshaft timing chain sprocket. Recheck the position of the mating marks on the chain and sprockets, then install the silent shaft sprocket bolts and shafts, lining

with the keys

CRANKSHAFT

(SILENT

SHAFT) SPROCKET

FLANGE BOLTS

9.8

An exploded view

CHAIN GUIDE "A"

of the silent shaft chain

and the timing chain

tighten

them

to the torque listed in this

Chapter's Specifications.

97

Chapter 2 Part B

2B-7

2.6L four-cylinder engine I

(04

TO 3 TO

5

mm

U

PtATEO UNK

IN)

MATING MASK

m *»

chain guide

e

CHAIN GUIDE B

CHAIN -GUIDE A

9.16b Installing the silent shaft chain guide B

9.16a Installing the silent shaft chain guide C

1ATEO LINK

16

Install

the chain guides labeled A,

and C (see illustrations) and tighten the mounting bolts for chain guides A and C

MATING MAPK

CHAIN GUID€ C

B

Timing chain and sprockets removal, inspection and

10

securely (leave the mounting bolts for chain

-

9.16c Push

in

the direction of arrow F to

remove the slack from the

installation

silent

shaft chain

guide B

finger-tight). Note the difference between the upper and lower chain guide B mounting bolts. Make sure they are installed in

Refer to

illustrations 10.6, 10.7, 10.8, 10.9a

and 10.9b

the proper location.

5

Adjust the chain slack as follows: rotate

1

the rear silent shaft clockwise and the front silent shaft

slack

is

counterclockwise so the chain

collected at point F (see illustration

9.16c). Pull the chain with your finger tips

the direction of arrow F, then

end

move

in

the lower

guide B up or down, as required, until the clearance between the chain and the guide (chain slack) is as of the chain

specified (see illustration 9.16c). Tighten the

B mounting bolts securely, then recheck the slack to make sure it has not changed. If the chain is not tensioned chain guide

properly, engine noise

will result.

Apply a coat of clean moly-based grease to the chain and chain guides. 1 Using a hammer and punch, drive the oil seal out of the timing chain case (see Sec18

tion 12).

Lay a new seal in place - make sure the lip faces inward - and tap around its circumference with a block of wood and a hammer

20

until

it

is

properly seated.

Using a new gasket and RTV-type fit the timing chain cover onto the engine (see illustration 9.6). Install the bolts in a crisscross pattern and tighten them to 21

sealant,

the torque listed

Installation

Removal The silent shaft chain and sprockets must be removed to gain access to the timing

Remove

2

and the

right

9).

the camshaft sprocket holder

and

left

timing chain guides

from the front of the engine block (see

illus-

tration 9.8).

Depress the timing chain tensioner plunger on the oil pump and slide the camshaft sprocket, the crankshaft sprocket and the timing chain off the engine as an assembly. Do not lose the key that indexes the crankshaft sprocket in the proper place. Remove the timing chain tensioner plunger and spring from the oil pump. 3

.

the

in

left

ones.

The upper bolt be installed

timing chain guide should

finger-tight only.

Then coat the

entire length of

the chain contact surfaces of the guides with

moly-based grease. Turn the crankshaft bolt with a large

clean, high-quality

6

wrench until the number one piston is at Top Dead Center (TDC) (refer to Section 3 for TDC locating). Apply a layer of clean moly-based grease or engine assembly lube to the timing chain tensioner plunger and install the tensioner spring and plunger loosely into the oil pump body (see illustration) Note: Chrysler Corporation officially recognizes a problem with the timing chain at start-up. Because of insufficient

oil

to

will

make a

is first

started.

pressure, the timing chain

This will not

Inspect the sprocket teeth for wear and

damage. Check the chain for cracked plates and pitted or worn rollers. Check the chain tensioner rubber shoe for wear and the tensioner spring for cracks and deterioration. Check the chain guides for wear and damage. Replace any defective parts with

new

timing chain guides onto the engine

knocking noise when the engine

Inspection 4

left

block. Tighten the bolts securely.

1

chain assembly (see Section

the sprocket holder and the right

Install

and

harm

the engine, but

it

is

necessary

update the tensioner. Purchase from a

dealership parts department a rubber spacer

and

insert

spacer

will

it

into the tensioner spring.

prevent the

oil

the tensioner and back into the

7

This

from flowing out of oil

pump.

Position the timing chain sprocket on

the end of the crankshaft with the wide

shoulder facing out (see illustration) Line up

Chapter's Specifications. If the gasket protrudes beyond the top or bottom of the case and engine block, trim off

in this

the excess with a razor blade.

22

Install the engine mounting plate onto the face of the timing chain cover (see illustration 9.5). Tighten to the torque listed in

r-.

Chapter's Specifications. 23 Apply a thin layer of clean moly-based grease to the seal contact surface of the crankshaft pulley, then slide it onto the this

crankshaft. Install the bolt and tighten finger-tight only. Note:

4.*

it

The bolt should be

tightened to the specified torque only after the cylinder

head and camshaft have been 10.6 Lubricate the timing chain tensioner

installed.

24

The remainder

reverse of removal.

of

installation

is

the

plunger and

install

pump

it

bore

in

the

oil

10.7 Install the timing chain sprocket

on

the end of the crankshaft with the wide shoulder facing out

2B

Chapter 2 Part B 2.6L four-cylinder engine

2B-8

CAMSHAFT SPROCKET

PLATED LINK

MATING MARK

TIMING CHAIN

MATING MARK

Mesh

the camshaft sprocket and the timing chain with the mark on the sprocket directly opposite the plated link on the chain

10.8

the keyway

in

the sprocket with the key on

the crankshaft. the camshaft sprocket onto the up the plated link on the chain with the marked tooth on the sprocket (see illus-

8

Install

chain, lining

over the crankshaft sprocket, lining up the plated link on the chain with the marked tooth on the sprocket (see illustration). Slide the crankshaft sprocket all the way onto the crankshaft while depressing the chain tensioner so the chain fits into place in the guides. Rest the camshaft sprocket on the sprocket holder (see illustration) and make sure the plated links

opposite each other)

PLATED LINK

the cylinder head (see illustration). If the special tool is not available, wrap the tip of a small screwdriver with tape and use it to carefully pry out the seal.

Slip

the

chain

and mating marks are aligned properly.

Caution: Do not rotate the crankshaft for any reason until the cylinder head and camshaft

have been properly installed. 10 The remainder of installation

is

the

scratch the camshaft journal or the

new

Thoroughly clean and inspect the seal 3 bore and the seal journal on the camshaft. Both must be clean and smooth. Use emery cloth or 400-grit

Camshaft (water pump seal

-

pulley) oil

replacement

illustrations

1

1.2

and

1

1.5

Remove the water pump pulley from the 1 camshaft (see Chapter 3). 2

Use a special

tool, available at

most

auto parts stores, and remove the seal from

11.2

remove the from the cylinder head

Use a special

tool to

seal

12

sandpaper to remove small

Crankshaft front replacement

oil

seal

-

burrs.

4

If

a groove has been worn into the

journal on the camshaft (from contact with

the seal

lip),

installing a

new

seal probably

Refer to 1

2

illustration 12.3

Remove Remove

the drivebelts (see Chapter

1).

the crankshaft pulley.

won't stop the leak. Such wear normally indicates the camshaft or the bearing surfaces in the caps are worn. It's probably time to overhaul the cylinder head (see Chapter 2, Part D) or replace the head or

Carefully pry the seal out of the front 3 cover (see illustration) with a seal removal tool or a screwdriver. Don't scratch the seal bore or damage the crankshaft inlhe process (if the crankshaft is damaged, the new seal

camshaft.

will

Coat the lip of the new seal with clean engine oil or moly-base grease and carefully

4

tap the seal into place with a special tool that

Refer to

sprocket relationship

seal

5

reverse of removal.

1 1

10.9b Correct chain and

Don't nick or

will leak.

tration).

9

10.9a Installing the timing chain on the crankshaft sprocket (note that the sprocket mark and the plated link are

most auto parts stores (see illustration). If a one is not available, use a large socket or piece of pipe and a hammer. If is

available at

you don't have a socket as large in diameter as the seal, tap around the outer edge of the seal with the large end of a punch. Install the water pump pulley and belt 6 (see Chapter 3). 7 Start the engine and check for oil leaks. .

11.5

Tap the

seal into place with a

special tool

end up

leaking).

Clean the bore in the timing chain cover and coat the outer edge of the new seal with engine oil or multi-purpose grease. Using a socket with an outside diameter slightly smaller than the outside diameter of the seal, carefully drive the seal into place with a hammer. If a socket is not available, a short section of a large diameter pipe will work.

Check the

seal after installation to

spring did not

5 6

pop

be sure the

out.

Installation is the reverse of removal.

Run the engine and check

12.3 Crankshaft front

for leaks.

oil

seal

Chapter 2 Part B

13

2B-9

2.6L four-cylinder engine

Camshaft - removal, inspection and installation

Removal Refer to

illustration 13.6

2

Remove Remove

3

Position the

1

the valve cover (see Section the distributor (see Chapter

4). 5).

Top then remove the

number one

piston at

Dead Center (see Section 3), rocker arm assembly (see Section 5). If the camshaft bearing caps do not have numbers on them, number them before removal. Be

sure to put the marks on the same ends of all the caps to prevent incorrect orientation of the caps during installation.

order to keep the tensioner from collapsing once the sprocket has been 4

In

removed, install a special retaining tool between the timing chain, near the tensioner (see illustration 14.7). The tool will extend down into the timing chain cover, so be sure the strap or wire hanger on the tool does not fall into the cover or it will be very difficult to remove the tool when the camshaft has been installed. 5 If a tensioner retaining tool is not available, try using a block of wood with some mechanics wire tied through it as an

2B

alternative.

Remove

6

the camshaft sprocket bolt and

gear. Note: Lock the camshaft using a large pair of Vise-grips or Channel-locks. Fasten the tool onto the camshaft without contacting the camshaft lobes. Position the tool only on the spaces between the lobes that are equipped with a notched relief specifically designed for distributor

drive

Remove

the timing

and camshaft sprocket as a

single unit

retaining the camshaft.

chain

camshaft (see illustration). Suspend the camshaft sprocket, with the from

the

chain 7

still

Lift

SEMI- CIRCULAR

attached, out of the way.

out the camshaft, wipe

clean shop towel and set

it

it

off with

SEAL

a

aside.

An exploded view

13.6

of the rocker

arm assembly and

cylinder

head

Inspection Refer to illustrations 13.8 and 13.11 8 a)

b)

To check camshaft endplay: Install the camshaft and secure it with caps 1 and 5. Mount a dial indicator on the head (see

c)

d)

Chapter's Specifica-

d)

the indicated runout exceeds

If

the

Using a large screwdriver as a lever at the opposite end, move the camshaft forward-and-backward and note the dial

10 Check the camshaft bearing journals and caps for scoring and signs of wear. If

indicator reading.

a

Compare

the reading with the endplay

listed in this

Chapter's Specifications.

the indicated reading

a)

camshaft or the head is worn. Replace parts as necessary. To check camshaft runout: Support the camshaft with a pair of V-

is

the

blocks and attach a dial indicator with the stem resting against the center bearing journal on the camshaft.

Rotate

the

camshaft and note

indicated runout.

they are worn, replace the cylinder head with

new

Measure the journals on the camshaft with a micrometer, comparing or rebuilt unit.

your readings with this Chapter's Specifica-

higher, either

If

b)

in this

tions.

specified runout, replace the camshaft.

e)

9

the results to the camshaft

runout listed

illustration) c)

Compare

the

tions.

If

the diameter of any of the journals

is

out of specification, replace the camshaft. 1 1

a)

b)

Check the cam lobes for wear: Check the toe and ramp areas of each cam lobe for score marks and uneven wear. Also check for flaking and pitting. If there's wear on the toe or the ramp, replace the camshaft, but in

the

oil

to find

Look for abrasive and inspect the oil

the cause of the wear.

substances

first try

13.8

set up a gauge the camshaft

To check camshaft endplay,

dial indicator like this, with the

plunger touching the nose of

.

Chapter 2 Part B 2.6L four-cylinder engine

2B-10 UNWORN AREA_, WEAR ZONE

-ACTUAL WEAR

DOWEL PIN

3.1 1 Measure the height of the camshaft lobes at the wear zone and unworn area, then subtract the wear zone measurement from the unworn area measurement to get the actual wear - compare the wear to the limit listed in this Chapter's Specifications 1

c)

pump and

oil

Lobe wear

is

passages for blockage. usually caused by inade-

quate lubrication or dirty oil. Using a micrometer, calculate the lobe

wear (see

illustration).

If

the lobe

wear

greater than listed in this Chapter's Specifications, replace the camshaft. Inspect the rocker arms for wear, galling

is

12

and

pitting of

the contact surfaces.

any of the conditions described above is probably lubrication or dirty oil, so insufficient getting make sure you track down the cause of this problem (low oil level, low oil pump capacity, clogged oil passage, etc.) before installing a new head, camshaft or followers. 13

If

are noted, the cylinder head

13.16 Install the camshaft with the dowel pin pointing up

Gradually tighten all four fasteners 1/4-turn at a time - until the camshaft is drawn down and seated in the bearing tighten the fasteners saddles. Don't completely at this time. 20 Install the bolts into bearing caps 3 and 5 and tighten the fasteners the same way you 4.

did for caps 2

and

new

Refer to

illustration 13.

16

Thoroughly clean the camshaft, the in the head and caps and the rocker arms. Remove all sludge and dirt. 14

bearing surfaces

seal on the camshaft,

Install

a

then

install

bearing cap

oil

1.

Don't tighten the

fasteners completely at this time.

Remove any excess sealant from the 22 two end bearing caps. 23 Working in a criss-cross pattern, tighten the fasteners for bearing caps 2 and 4 to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. Then torque the fasteners for bearing caps 3 and 5 the same way. Finally, tighten the fasteners for bearing cap

24

Install

1

the camshaft sprocket and timing

timing

components

with a clean, lint-free

cloth.

15

Lubricate the contact surfaces on the

in

their original

marks on the sprockets should

still

be

locations.

aligned.

Lubricate the camshaft bearing surfaces the head and the bearing journals and lobes on the camshaft with assembly lube or

chain to the sprockets (see Section 10). Note: If you feel resistance while rotating the crankshaft, stop immediately and check the valve timing by referring to Section 10. 26 The remainder of installation is the

16 in

moly-base grease. Carefully lower the camshaft into position with the dowel pin pointing up (see illustration). Caution: Failure to adequately lubricate the camshaft and related components can cause serious

damage

to

during the start-up,

bearing and first

when

If

they're not, reindex the timing

reverse of removal.

14

surfaces few seconds after engine the oil pressure is low or

Cylinder head

removal and

friction

nonexistent.

17 Apply a thin coat of assembly lube or moly-base grease to the bearing surfaces of the camshaft bearing caps. 18 Apply anaerobic-type sealant to the cylinder head contact surfaces of bearing caps 1 and 5 and install the rocker arm assembly. 19 Install the bolts for bearing caps 2 and

you leave the manifolds attached, you may need an assistant to help lift the head off the engine, since it will be manifolds.

including the

making sure you put them

all

installation

Caution: Allow the engine to cool completely this procedure.

before beginning

Removal Refer to 1

Position

2

Remove Remove

the valve cover (see Section

4).

the distributor (see Chapter

5),

cap and

wires.

Remove the silent shaft chain and sprockets (see Section 9) and the timing chain and sprocket (see Section 10). Note: It is possible to use a tensioner locking tool (see illustration) to hold the chain and tensioner in place while the cylinder head is off the engine. This will save time you by not having to remove the timing chain and silent 7

shaft chain assemblies.

Be sure

tool very tight to prevent

when

it

to install the

from popping out

shaken or jarred. 8 Loosen the head bolts in 1/4-turn increments until they can be removed by hand. Follow the recommended sequence to avoid warping the head (see illustration). Note where each bolt goes so it can be returned to the same location on installation. 9 Lift the head off the engine. If resistance is felt, don't pry between the head and block gasket mating surfaces - damage to the mating surfaces will result. Instead, pry against the casting protrusions on the sides of the cylinder head. Set the head on blocks of wood to prevent damage to the gasket 10

7

(see Section

at

Top

3).

Disconnect the negative cable from the

battery.

5 6

If

the engine

is

sealing surfaces.

and 14.8 the number one piston

illustrations 14.

Dead Center

remove

1).

4 Remove the intake and exhaust manifold (see Sections 7 and 8). Note: If you're only replacing the cylinder head gasket, it isn't necessary to remove the

chain or sprockets, the valve timing should still be correct. Rotate the camshaft as necessary to reattach the sprocket to the

top of the rocker arms with assembly lube or moly-base grease. Install the rocker arms,

off

Drain the cooling system and

quite heavy.

related

camshaft, if the valve timing was disturbed, align the sprockets and install the chain as described in Section 10. 25 Remove the spark plugs and rotate the crankshaft by hand to make sure the valve timing is correct. After two revolutions, the

Wipe

3

the spark plugs (see Chapter

components (see Section 10). If you suspended the camshaft sprocket out of the way and didn't disturb the timing

chain and

Installation

4.

21

14.7 Before removing the camshaft sprocket, position the tensioner locking tool between the chain, at the tensioner be sure the tool has a long rope or wire attached to the end of it so it can be easily removed after the job - if the tool is not available, a block of wood and a length of mechanic's wire may also work

Cylinder

head

in detail in

Chapter 2, Part D. It's a good idea the head checked for warpage, even just replacing the gasket.

and

disassembly

inspection procedures are covered

to if

have

you're

1

Chapter 2 Part B

14.8

Loosen the head bolts 1/4- turn at a time, in the sequence shown, until they can be removed by hand

Refer to

illustration 14.

16

and second ("engine

The mating surfaces of the cylinder 11 head and block must be perfectly clean when the head is installed. 12 Use a gasket scraper to remove all traces of carbon and old gasket material, then clean the mating surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone. If there's oil on the mating surfaces when the head is installed, the gasket may not seal correctly and leaks may develop. When working on the block, stuff the cylinders with clean shop rags to keep out debris. Use a vacuum cleaner to remove material that falls into the cylinders.

Since the

head

is

made

of

aluminum,

aggressive scraping can cause damage. Be extra careful not to nick or gouge the mating surfaces with the scraper.

13

Check

surfaces for

block and head mating nicks, deep scratches and other the

damage. If damage is removed with a file;

slight,

it

can be

if it's excessive, machining may be the only alternative. 14 Use a tap of the correct size to chase the threads in the head bolt holes. Mount each head bolt in a vise and run a die down the threads to remove corrosion and restore

the threads.

Dirt,

14.16 Cylinder head bolt

the stages and to the torque's listed in this Chapter's Specifications. Note: Use the first

Installation

cold") steps in the

Reinstall the timing chain

removed.

and

silent

a tensioner locking tool was used, attach the camshaft sprocket shaft chain,

if

and remove the 18

If

tool.

the remaining

Reinstall

parts

in

the

reverse order of removal.

19 Be sure to refill the cooling system and check all fluid levels. 20 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise slowly by hand through two complete revolutions. Recheck the camshaft timing marks (see Sec-tion 10). Caution: If you feel any resistance while turning the engine over, stop and

recheck the camshaft timing. The valves

be

hitting the pistons.

21

Start the engine

timing (see Chapter

may

ignition

1).

proper operation. Remove the valve cover and re-torque cylinder head bolts while the engine is hot the (use Step 3 in the Specifications), then re-

23

the valve cover.

corrosion, sealant and

damaged threads will affect torque readings. 15 Place a new gasket on the block. Check see if there are any markings (such as "TOP") on the gasket that say how it is to be installed. Set the cylinder head in position. 16 Install the bolts. They must be tightened in a specific sequence (see illustration), in

15

Oil

pan

the engine, then drain the

oil

and replace the oil filter (see Chapter 1). Detach the cable from the negative 2

-

Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Remove the bolts securing the oil pan to 4 the engine block (see illustration). 5 Tap on the pan with a soft-face hammer to break the gasket seal, then detach the oil pan from the engine. Don't pry between the block and oil pan mating surfaces. Using a gasket scraper, remove all 6 traces of old gasket and/or sealant from the engine block and oil pan. Remove the seals from each end of the engine block or oil pan. Clean the mating surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone. Make sure the threaded 3

removal and installation

7

to

illustration 15.4

Note: The following procedure is based on the assumption that the engine is in the vehicle.

Clean the

thoroughly.

oil

pan with solvent and dry

Check the gasket flanges

it

for

around the bolt holes. necessary, place the pan on a block of wood and use a hammer to flatten and restore the gasket surfaces. 8 Install the oil pan end seals, then apply a 1/8-inch wide bead of RTV sealant to the oil pan gasket surfaces. Continue the bead across the end seals. Make sure the sealant is applied to the inside edge of the bolt

distortion, particularly If

holes.

9 Refer to

Warm up

bolt holes in the block are clean.

and check the

22 Run the engine until normal operating temperature is reached. Check for leaks and

install

1

TIGHTENING sequence

battery terminal.

Specifications.

17

2B-11

2.6L four-cylinder engine

Carefully place the

oil

pan

in

position.

10 Install the bolts and tighten them in 1/4-turn increments to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. Start with the bolts closest to the center of the pan and work out in a spiral pattern. Don't overtighten them or leakage may occur. 1 Add oil, run the engine and check for oil leaks.

16

Oil

pump

and

-

removal, inspection

installation

Removal Refer to 1

15.4

Remove

the bolts from the

oil

pan

illustration 16.3

Remove

the timing chain (see Sec-

tion 10).

2

Remove

the

oil

pan (see Section

15).

2B

Chapter 2 Part B

2B-12

2.6L four-cylinder engine

DRIVE GEAR

16.5

Check

pump

oil

bearing clearance

on each gear

3

Remove

the

and remove the

oil oil

pump mounting pump assembly

bolts

(see

illustration).

Inspection Refer to

illustrations 16.5, 16.6a 16.6b, 16.7,

16.8, 16.9

and

Remove pump cover.

4 5

16.11

the bolts and

Check the

oil

pump

lift

off

the

oil

bearing clearance

on each gear (see illustration). Using feeler gauges and a straightedge, 6 check the endplay of the driven gear and the drive gear (see illustrations).

*

Check the clearance between the driven gear and the pump housing with feeler gauges (see illustration). Check the clearance between the drive 8 gear and the pump housing with feeler gauges (see illustration). Extract the spring and oil pump relief 9 7

valve from the

Measure

tration).

16.3

An exploded view

of the

oil

pump assembly and

the

oil

pan

pump

pressure

relief

housing (see

valve spring.

FEELER

GAUGE

Use a straightedge and a feeler gauge to check the endplay on the

16.6a

driven gear

16.6b Use a straightedge and a feeler gauge to check the endplay on the drive gear

illus-

the free length of the

16.7 Check the driven gear-to-housing clearance

oil

1

1

Chapter 2 Part B

2B-13

2.6L four-cylinder engine WNVEN GEAR

MATING MARK

FEELER

GAUGE

Check the

16.8

Remove

16.9

drive

the

spring and

gear-to-housing clearance

oil

pressure

measure

its

relief

valve

free length

16.11

Be sure the mating marks on the

pump

gears are set when assembling the oil

Compare the measurements to 10 pump Specifications at the beginning Chapter.

any of them are outside the

If

the

oil

of this limits,

Tighten the bolts to the torque listed

Install

the

oil

Engine mounts - check, replacement and adjustment

19

pan (see Section

pump

in this

Chapter's Specifications.

15

oil

15).

2B

replace the pump. the gears with the mating marks

Install

1

aligned together (see illustration). oil

pressure

Install

the

Refer to

the

valve and spring assembly.

relief

pump

Install

illustrations 19. la

This procedure

Flywheel/driveplate

17

cover and tighten the bolts

and

to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifi-

-

is

and

19.

1b

essentially the

same

engines. See Part A and follow the procedure outlined there, but refer to the

for

removal

installation

all

illustrations in this

Section (see illustrations)

cations.

This procedure

Installation

for

all

tions.

block.

18

13

Coat the threads

with

RTV

securely

them

of the

in

pump

Install

tube

- if

Install

Refer to

a

new gasket on

oil

oil

SEAL

RETAINER

seal

-

replacement

the

oil

pick-up

- (see illustration 16.3) and pick-up tube and screen.

all

is

essentially the

engines. Refer to Part

A and

same

GASKET

follow the

procedure outlined there. However, use the bolt torque listed

in this

Chapter (see

illus-

18.1

An exploded view seal

tration)

^

RIGHT YOKE BRACKET &

of the rear

assembly

/N* SCREW INSULATOR

INSULATOR

SCREW SCREW

CAUTION NUT "C MUST SIDE RAIL

19.1a

SCREW

illustration 18.

This procedure for

removed the

Rear main

Chapter's

this

Specifications.

14

same

follow the

bolt torque listed in this Chapter's Specifica-

place, install the bolts. Tighten

to the torque listed

A and

mounting bolts

sealant and, while holding the in

essentially the

procedure outlined there. However, use the

Apply a thin coat of RTV sealant to the mating surface of the pump and place the pump in position. Rotate it back-and-forth little to ensure there's positive a contact between the pump and the engine 12

is

engines. Refer to Part

An exploded view

BE

TIGHTENED BEFORE BOLT "6"

of the right engine

mount

NUT 19.1b

An exploded view

of the front

engine mount

main

oil

2B-14

Chapter 2 Part B 2.6L four-cylinder engine

Notes

IIL

1

2C-1

Chapter 2 Part 3.0L V6 engine

C

Contents Section

Camshaft and bearing surfaces - inspection Camshaft oil seal - replacement Camshaft(s) - removal and installation replacement Crankshaft pulley/vibration damper - removal Crankshaft front

and

oil

seal

-

16

General information

12

Hydraulic lash adjusters Intake manifold

1

Oil

pan

Oil

pump

9

Cylinder head(s)

-

See Chapter 2D

removal and

Drivebelt check, adjustment

installation

and replacement

Engine mounts - check and replacement Engine oil and filter change Engine overhaul - general information Engine - removal and installation Exhaust manifolds - removal and installation Flywheel/driveplate - removal and installation

14

See Chapter

1

21

See Chapter 1 See Chapter 2D See Chapter 2D 8 19

-

1 -

check, removal and installation

- removal and installation removal and installation

15

installation

Cylinder compression check

Section

-

Rear main

7 ...

removal, inspection and installation oil

seal

-

6

...

replacement

18

20

Repair operations possible with the engine

Rocker arm components

17

in

the vehicle

removal and installation 5 Spark plug replacement See Chapter 1 Thermostat replacement See Chapter 3 Timing belt - removal, installation and adjustment 10 Top Dead Center (TDC) for number one piston - locating 3 Valve covers - removal and installation 4 Valve springs, retainers and seals - replacement 13 Water pump - removal and installation See Chapter 3

2C

Specifications

General Displacement

181 cubic inches 1-2-3-4-5-6

Firing order

Cylinder

Rear

numbers

(drivebelt end-to-transaxle end)

(firewall side)

Front (radiator side)

1-3-5

2-4-6

Camshaft and related components Camshaft runout Lobe height Lobe wear limit

limit

0.004 inch

The blackened terminal shown on the distributor cap indicates the Number One spark plug wire position

1.624 inch

0.020 inch

Cylinder location and distributor rotation

pump

Oil

Case-to-outer rotor clearance Rotor end clearance Case-to-inner rotor clearance

0.004 to 0.007 inch 0.0015 to 0.0035 inch 0.0010 to 0.0028 inch

Torque specifications

Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)

Rocker arm shaft bolts

180 174 130

Intake manifold nuts/bolts Distributor drive adapter bolts

Engine mounts (see

B

C D E F

G Exhaust manifold nuts Exhaust manifold heat shield bolts Exhaust pipe-to-manifold bolts Exhaust crossover pipe bolts Crankshaft pulley-to-crankshaft bolt Camshaft sprocket bolt Timing belt cover (see Section 10)

C(M6X25) D(M6X10)

in-lbs

in-lbs in-lbs

illustration 21.1)

A

A (M6 X 20) B(M6X55)

2

-

125 100 75 50 40 16 16 175 in-lbs 130 in-lbs 21

51

112 70 115 115 115 115

in-lbs in-lbs in-lbs

in-lbs

2C-2

Chapter 2 Parte

3.0LV6 engine

Torque specifications (continued)

Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)

Timing

21

belt tensioner locking bolt

Cylinder head bolts

70 72 to 80 50 in-lbs 130 in-lbs 36

Flywheel/driveplate mounting bolts*

Oil

pan mounting bolts pump assembly mounting bolts

Oil

pump

Oil

relief plug pick-up tube-to-pump bolts

Oil

191 in-lbs

Oil pump cover bolts Valve cover bolts *

104 in-lbs 88 in-lbs

Apply a thread locking compound

to the threads prior to installation

and you are

the assumption that the spark plug wires

General information

2

devoted to invehicle repair procedures for the 3.0L V6 engine. All information concerning engine removal and installation and engine block and cylinder head overhaul can be found in This Part of Chapter 2

Part

D

repair procedures are

based on the assumption that the engine is installed in the vehicle. If the engine has been removed from the vehicle and mounted on a stand, of

many

Chapter 2

of the steps outlined in this Part will

not apply.

The Specifications included in this Part of Chapter 2 apply only to the procedures contained in this Part. Part D of Chapter 2 contains the Specifications necessary for cylinder head and engine block rebuilding. The 60-degree V6 has a cast iron block and aluminum heads with a camshaft in each head. The block has thin-walled sections for light weight. A "cradle frame" main bearing casting - the main bearing caps are cast as a unit, with a bridge, or truss, connecting them - supports the cast ductile iron crankshaft. Both camshafts are driven off the crankshaft by a cog belt. A spring loaded tensioner, adjusted by an eccentric type locknut, maintains belt tension. Each camshaft actuates two valves per cylinder through hydraulic lash adjusters and shaftmounted forged aluminum rocker arms. Each cast aluminum three-ring piston has two compression rings and a three-piece oil control ring. The piston pins are pressed into forged steel connecting rods. The flattopped pistons produce 8.85:1 a

compression ratio. The distributor, which drivebelt

end

is

mounted on the

driven by a helical gear on the camshaft. is

is

The

bolted to the timing belt

end of the block, is driven off the crankshaft by a drivebelt and pulley. The gear type oil pump is mounted in the oil pump case and attached to the timing belt cover. by the crankshaft.

From the

oil

pump,

main

oil

It

is

travels through

filter

to the

oil

gallery,

TDC

to install the distributor

must be determined compression at the number one spark plug hole as the crankshaft is slowly turned clockwise, then aligning the ignition

Many major repair operations can be accomplished without removing the engine from the vehicle. Clean the engine compartment and the exterior of the engine with some type of degreaser before any work is done. It will make the job easier and help keep dirt out of the internal areas of the engine. Depending on the components involved, it may be helpful to remove the hood to improve access to the engine as repairs are performed (refer to Chapter 1 1 if necessary). Cover the fenders to prevent damage to the paint. Special pads are available, but an old

by

feeling for

timing marks.

Top Dead Center (TDC)

1

point

in

is

the highest

the cylinder that each piston reaches

when

the

crankshaft turns. Each piston reaches

TDC

as

it

travels

up-and-down

the intake and exhaust manifolds, the

on the compression stroke and again on the exhaust stroke, but TDC generally refers to piston position on the compression stroke. Positioning the piston(s) at TDC is an 2 essential part of many procedures such as camshaft and timing belt/sprocket removal and distributor removal. Before beginning this procedure, be 3 sure to place the transmission in Neutral and apply the parking brake or block the rear wheels. Also, disable the ignition system by detaching the coil wire from the terminal marked 'C on the distributor cap and grounding it on the block with a jumper wire. Remove the spark plugs (see Chapter 1). 4 In order to bring any piston to TDC, the crankshaft must be turned using one of the

(and the

methods

bedspread or blanket will also work. If vacuum, exhaust, oil or coolant leaks develop, indicating a need for gasket or seal replacement, the repairs can generally be made with the engine in the vehicle. The intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, oil pan gasket, camshaft and crankshaft oil seals and cylinder head gaskets are all accessible with the engine

in

place.

components, such as oil pan pump), the water pump, the

Exterior engine

oil

starter motor, the alternator, the distributor

and the removed

fuel

system components can be

for repair with the

engine

in

drivebelt

place.

a)

heads

can be removed without pulling the engine, camshaft and valve component servicing can also be accomplished with the engine in the vehicle. Replacement of the timing belt and sprockets Since

is

the

cylinder

also possible with the engine

in

that

clockwise.

The preferred method

is

Once

c)

the piston

is

close to TDC, use a

If

an assistant

is

short bursts, you can get the piston close to TDC without a remote starter switch. Make sure your assistant is out of the vehicle,

Top Dead Center (TDC) for number one piston - locating

described

away from

3.6c and 3.8

heads.

Note: The following procedure

is

based on

in

Paragraph

the ignition

and

ratchet as

a) to

complete

the procedure.

5 illustrations 3.6a, 3.6b,

the

available to turn the

switch, then use a socket

Refer to

in

ignition switch to the Start position in

of the cleaning and prepamust be done to the compo-

pistons and cylinder walls or to the cylinder

turn the

previous paragraph.

nents involved.

3

to

socket and ratchet as described

mended because work

normal crank-

of the engine, is

instructions included with the switch.

of

necessary equipment, repair or replacement of piston rings, pistons, connecting rods and rod bearings is possible with the engine in the vehicle. However, this practice is not recomration

end

looking at the

crankshaft with a socket and ratchet attached to the bolt threaded into the front of the crankshaft. b) A remote starter switch, which may save some time, can also be used. Follow the

the vehicle.

extreme cases caused by a lack

When

outlined below.

shaft rotation

driven

from which it is routed either directly to the main bearings, crankshaft, connecting rod bearings and

the

trying to locate

If

correctly, piston position

In

of the front cylinder head,

water pump, which

distributor are correctly installed.

is

of this Chapter.

The following

Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle

Note the position of the terminal

number one spark plug wire on the cap.

If

the terminal

isn't

for the

distributor

marked, follow the

.

Chapter 2 Part C

Use mark the

3.6a

a felt-tip

marker or chalk

the terminals inside the V6 cap are offset from their respective spark plug wire terminals on top of the cap, so it's easy to become confused by the rotor's position relative to the apparent spark plug wire terminal when the number one piston is at TDC 3.6b

to

distributor housing directly

plug wire from the

number one

.

.

distributor

beneath the number 1 spark plug wire terminal, but note that .

.

.

cylinder spark

the

number one spark plug

wire terminal

Use a felt-tip pen or chalk to make a mark on the distributor body directly under will be necessary to the terminal. To do this, refer to the accompanying illustrations, as the distributor cap on these engines have offset terminals - the terminals inside the cap are 6

it

offset from their respective spark plug wire

terminals on the top of the

cap (see

TDC

on the compression stroke. piston has been positioned at TDC on the compression stroke, TDC for any of the remaining pistons can be located by turning the crankshaft and piston

12

is

at

After the

number one

following the firing order.

8

Detach the cap from the distributor and aside (see Chapter 1 if necessary). Turn the crankshaft (see Step 3 above)

until

the "0" notch

the rotor

it

the crankshaft pulley

in

is

the front of the engine) (see illustration).

Look

at the distributor rotor

be pointing

the rotor

If

number one stroke

-

-

it

should

mark you made on go to Step 12. 180-degrees off, the

directly at

will

one

also turn. of the

When

it's

marks on the

pointing

distributor,

the piston for that particular cylinder

TDC

piston

proceed

If it

is

is at

is

on the compression stroke.

the distributor.

the rotor

is

pointing at

To bring the number one piston to engines, watch the timing notch on the edge of the crankshaft pulley and align it with the 0-degree mark on the 3.8

TDC on V6

timing cover

Valve covers

-

removal and

installation

to the next Step.

When

Detach the breather hose by sliding back the hose clamp (if equipped) and pulling the hose off the fitting on the valve cover (see illustration).

4 Remove the spark plug wires from the spark plugs. Mark them clearly with pieces of masking tape to prevent confusion during installation.

5 6

Remove

1

the wires and hoses attached

Remove

Relieve the fuel system pressure (see

Chapter 4). Disconnect the negative cable from the 2

valve cover

the

bolts

and

washers. 7

4

2C

3

Detach the valve cover (see

tration).

the exhaust

11 To get the piston to TDC on the compression stroke, turn the crankshaft one complete turn (360-degrees) clockwise. The rotor should now be pointing at the mark on

Front (radiator side) cover illustrations 4.3 and 4. 7

Refer to

at

is,

TDC on

Removal

to the valve cover.

directly at the

the distributor body.

10

13

terminal locations on the distributor

aligned with the timing indicator (located at

9

the number one piston (or doing any procedure that involves alignment of the rotor with the correct terminal) - this view is from the top of the cap

cap and the ignition timing marks are aligned, the number one

Mark the remaining spark plug wire body just like you did for the number one terminal, then number the marks to correspond with the cylinder numbers. As you turn the crankshaft,

illustra-

tions).

7

3.6c To avoid confusion, refer to this terminal guide for the V6 distributor cap whenever you're trying to locate TDC for

inside the distributor

plug to the cap.

set

2C-3

3.0L V6 engine

head,

Caution:

If

the cover

bump one end

is

illus-

stuck to the

with a block of

wood

and a hammer

to jar

work,

a flexible putty knife between

try to slip

it

loose.

If

that doesn't

the head and cover to break the gasket seal.

Don't pry at the cover-to-head

joint

or

battery.

4.3 To remove the front (radiator side) valve cover, detach the breather hose and the spark plug wires, then remove the two

cover retaining bolts and washers

4.7 Try to break the valve cover loose with your hands - if it's stuck to the head, try to jar it loose with a block of wood and a hammer or slip a flexible putty knife between the head and cover to break the

gasket

head

seal; don't pry at the cover-to-

joint or

you may damage the sealing will cause an oil leak)

surfaces (which

2

7

Chapter 2 Parte 3.0LV6 engine

2C-4

Kl

the cover.

If

the gasket

^"OjCtfK

§

>kk

installed

COVER GASKET

16

the sealant

may

fall

on the engine. on the head

Carefully position the cover

and

install

the bolts.

Tighten the bolts

1

the torque listed

I

allowed to set, out of the cover as it's isn't

in

three or four steps to

in this

Chapter's Specifica-

tions.

The remaining

18

installation

steps are the

reverse of removal.

&

f t

10

and

you swing the you can work the cover off without removing the plenum/intake assembly

the firewall alternator

damage

but

oil

leaks

in

if

Refer to

illustration 4.

IS

it

11

cover

Remove

5).

the valve cover bolts

and

1

Lift off

Tag and detach the spark plug wires. Loosen the front alternator mounting bolt and nut, remove the rear bolt and nut and pivot the alternator up and forward to 10

Read the Caution

in

Step

7.

Refer to

illustration

4.15

The mating surfaces

of

each cylinder

head and valve cover must be

perfectly clean

13

the covers are installed. Use a gasket sealant and

little

5.2, 5.4a, 5.4b, 5.4c,

Position the engine at

1

for the

number

1

TDC

compression

cylinder (see Section

the valve cover (see Section

3).

4).

Loosen the rocker arm shaft bolts (see two or three stages, working your way from the ends toward the middle of

arm

at a time in the

sequence shown

hydraulic lash adjusters into their bores

the tips of the rocker arms, or they'll fall out

in

of the valves

will

be open when you loosen the rocker arm and the rocker arm shafts will be under a certain amount of valve spring pressure. Therefore, the bolts must be loosened gradually. Loosening a bolt all at once near a rocker arm under spring pressure could bend or break the rocker arm shaft. 3

Prior to removal, scribe or paint identi-

fying

falling

are removed.

develop.

4

lift

14 If necessary, clean the mounting screw threads with a die to remove any corrosion

arm shaft assemblies (see illustration). Lay them down on a nearby workbench in the

and restore damaged threads. Make sure the threaded holes in the head are clean - run a tap into them to remove corrosion and

same relationship to each other that they're in when installed (see illustration). They must be reinstalled on the same cylinder head. Note the location of the stamped

damaged

threads.

15 The gaskets should be mated to the covers before the covers are installed. Apply a bead of RTV sealant to the cover in the areas indicated (see illustration), then position the gasket inside the cover and allow the sealant to set up so the gasket adheres to

be

marks on the rockers

5.4b The rocker assembly is springloaded, so it pops apart when you remove it from the cylinder head; so, it's a good idea to set the assembly on a clean surface with all the parts in order

to ensure they

installed in their original locations.

will

Wrap

the ends of the rocker arms with tape to prevent the hydraulic lash adjusters from out when the rockers Remove the bolts and

bearing cap

notches (see

5.4c

5.4a Before you lift the rocker assembly off the head, make sure you tape the

Some

scraper to remove all traces of old gasket material, then clean the mating surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone. If there's sealant or oil on the mating surfaces when the cover is installed, oil leaks may

restore

shafts a

Refer to illustrations 5.5a, 5.5b and 5.5c

-

shaft -bolts

Installation

when

for the rocker

Rocker arm components removal and installation

5

the shafts. Caution: the valve cover (see illustration).

4

Loosen the bolts

carefully for

up.

illustration) in

washers.

9

5.2

warms

2

12

cover.

leaks as the engine

Remove clear the valve cover (see Chapter

Detach the breather hose from the

8

necessary to apply RTV to the edges (arrows) on the outside of the gasket where it mates with the camshaft seal

but

may occur

the future).

(firewall side)

oil

4.15 It isn't necessary to use RTV gasket sealant on the inside of the gasket if the gasket is a tight fit and doesn't budge once it's installed inside the valve cover -

like this,

to the sealing surfaces

(leading to

Rear

up

-

BEAD

and check

Start the engine

19 {1/16 INCH)

OF RTV 3/8 INCH LONG IN FOUR PLACES

4.12 The rear valve cover is a little trickier to remove because of its close proximity to the intake plenum, the alternator

mm

A

number and the

off

the rocker

position of the

illustration).

numerical ("1,""2",

etc.)

should be

stamped on each bearing cap, listing its position on the head (center arrow) (if the number's missing, make one with a scribe or punch) - also note the flat space (left and right arrows); when you reassemble the rocker assembly, position the flats

as shown

1

Chapter 2 Part C OH. INTAKE SHAFT

ARROW MARK

HAS EXTRA HOU IN BOTTOM

CAP

CAP

NO

2C-5

3.0L V6 engine

NO

(lEARING CAP)

i

I

NO

CAP

7

WITH OIL INLET (INTAKE)

FROM CYLINDER HEAD

©£3=3=5

ROCKER ARM

ARROW MARK (MARINO

An exploded view of the rocker arm assembly - note that bearing cap #2 on each head must be in the proper position to ensure that the rocker assembly gets oil from the

5.5b The arrows on the bearing caps should point in the same direction as the arrows on the cylinder heads

5.5a

galley in

each head

below the #2 cap

directly

Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure (see illustration). Note: Be sure the arrows stamped into the cylinder head and the bearing caps (see illustration) are pointing in the same direction. Tighten the rocker arm shaft bolts, in several steps, to the

CAP)

5

torque

listed in this

Chapter's Specifications.

Work from the ends

Intake manifold

7

2C

installation

Removal Refer to illustrations 7.10 and

toward the middle the reverse of the order in which you loosened the rocker arm shaft bolts in Step 2

2

(see illustration).

terminal of the battery.

of the shafts

removal and

7. 7 7

Relieve the fuel system pressure (see

1

Chapter 4). Disconnect the cable from the negative Drain the cooling system (don't forget to

3

drain the cylinder block) (see Chapter

Hydraulic lash adjusters

-

check,

Remove

4

the

air

Chapter 4). 5 Disconnect the

removal and installation

1).

cleaner assembly (see

5.5c Using an inch-pound torque wrench, arm assembly bolt pairs

tighten the rocker coil

high tension spark

in

the exact opposite order

plug lead and the three spark plug leads to the rear cylinder (see Chapter

Check

the

Refer to 1

illustration 6.

Check the hydraulic bleed hole

in

lash adjusters for

arm while

lightly

down (see

illus-

the rocker

pushing the check

they're

ball

Remove

6

in

the Throttle Valve (TV) cable from the throttle

the coil assembly (see

Chap-

body (see Chapter 8

ter 5).

Disconnect the accelerator cable and

7

which you

of the bolt at the right rear corner of

the plenum.

freeplay by inserting a small wire through the air

way

1) -

in

loosened them

Remove

throttle

the

4).

air

intake

body as a

single

plenum and the assembly (see

tration).

While lightly holding the check ball down, move the rocker arm up and down to check for freeplay. There should be a small amount of movement. If there is no freeplay, 2

replace the adjuster with a

new

unit.

Removal and installation Refer to

3 4)

Remove

the valve cover(s) (see Section

and the rocker arm shaft components (see

Section 4

illustration 6.4

Pull the hydraulic lash adjuster(s) out of

the rocker arm(s) (see illustration) Note:

Be

sure to label each rocker arm and adjuster and place them in a partitioned box or

something suitable to keep them from getting mixed with each other. 5

HYDRAULIC LASH ADJUSTER

5).

Installation is the reverse of removal.

When

performing the freeplay test, sure the adjuster that's being tested has the corresponding camshaft lobe pointing away from the rocker arm (closed valve)

6.1

make

6.4

The hydraulic lash adjusters are

precision units installed in the machined opening in the rocker arm assemblies

8

1

2C-6

Chapter 2 Part

C 3.0LV6 engine removal solvents in aerosol cans are available most auto parts stores and may be helpful when removing old gasket material that's

at

stuck to the heads and manifold (since they're made of aluminum, aggressive scraping can

«».

cause damage). Be sure to follow the directions printed on the container. 15 Use a gasket scraper to remove all traces of sealant and old gasket material, then clean the mating surfaces with lacquer

^

thinner or acetone.

•*

installed,

7.10 Location of the MAP sensor bracket bolts (arrows)

Chapter 4). two parts. 9

It's

Remove

unnecessary to separate the

the fuel injectors (see Chap-

ter 4).

10 (see 1

Remove

MAP

the

PCV

valve hose (see illus-

tration).

12

Remove

13

Loosen the manifold

coolant tube flange bolts (arrows at far right) then loosen the eight nuts in the sequence shown, in 1/4-turn increments, until they're loose enough to remove by hand

or

vacuum

leaks

may

compressed

air

(if

available) to

debris from the holes. Warning:

Position the gaskets on the cylinder

17

No sealant is sure the beaded sealant

illustration).

damage

side

may

illustrations

new

you're installing a

If

intake manifold,

remove the coolant temperature sending unit (single-wire connector) and coolant temper-

Installation Refer to

facing up.

is

1

leaks.

remove the Wear safety

when using compressed air!

make

vacuum

material

glasses or a face shield to protect your eyes

required, but

gasket sealing surfaces

is

develop.

in the heads. 16 Use a tap of the correct size to chase the threads in the bolt holes, then use

heads (see

to the

oil

that falls into the intake ports

to break the gasket seal. Caution: Don'f pry

in

increments until they can be removed by hand. Loosen the outer nuts first, then the inner nuts. Remove the washers. 14 The manifold will probably be stuck to the cylinder heads and force may be required

1/4-tum

oil

between the manifold and the heads or occur, leading to

the coolant tube flange bolts. retaining nuts

there's old sealant or

Use a vacuum cleaner to remove any

To remove the intake manifold, detach the PCV valve hose (right next to the coolant tube flange), remove the two 7.11

sensor bracket bolts

illustration).

Detach the

If

on the mating surfaces when the manifold

7.17

ature sensor (two-wire connector) from the

and 7.20

Note: The mating surfaces of the cylinder heads and manifold must be perfectly clean when the manifold is installed. Gasket

old manifold and

Be sure

install

or thread sealant. Also

check

it

them

in

the

(see Chapter

remove the PCV 1) and install it

new

manifold (see Chapter

unit.

19

Carefully set the manifold

valve,

the

in

1).

in

place, being

careful not to disturb the gaskets. all

new

to coat the threads with Teflon tape

Make

sure

intake port openings, coolant passage

holes and bolt holes are aligned torrectly.

20

Install

them

in

the washers and nuts and tighten

the

illustration)

recommended sequence (see to the torque

listed

in

Chapter's Specifications. Work up to the

this final

in two steps. Coat the coolant tube flange gasket with sealant, place it on the flange, place the flange in position, install the flange bolts and

torque 21

EXHAUST

CROSSOVER

tighten

them

securely.

PIPE

22

Install

the

MAP

sensor bracket bolts and

them securely. The remainder

tighten

23

of

installation

is

the

reverse of removal. Start the engine and check carefully for oil and coolant leaks at the intake manifold joints.

HEAT SHIELD

REAR EXHAUST

MANIFOLD

7.17

FRONT

An exploded view

of the intake

and exhaust manifold assemblies

7.20 Nut tightening sequence for the intake manifold

1

.

Chapter 2 Part C

8.5 If you're removing the front exhaust manifold, remove the bolts from the front flange of the crossover pipe (left arrow); if you're removing the rear manifold, remove the bolts from the rear flange (right arrow); if you're removing both

manifolds,

remove

all

upper flange bolts are

8

the bolts (only the

visible in this photo)

Exhaust manifolds

removal and

illustrations 8.5, 8.6, 8.8, 8.9a, 8.9b,

8.9c, 8.12a

and 8.12b

Warning: Let the engine cool completely before

procedure

this

2

Spray penetrating

oil

on the exhaust

manifold fasteners and allow 3

is

performed.

Removal

If

to soak in. you're removing the front exhaust it

you're removing the front exhaust manifold, remove the dipstick tube (see next illustration) and the heat shield bolts (arrows)

8.8

If

you're removing the rear exhaust manifold, disconnect the EGR tube (see 7

If

Chapter

remove the coolant reservoir (see Chapter 3) and the dipstick tube (follow the tube down the front of the block and you'll

8

tube to

9

manifold,

If

6).

you're removing the front exhaust

manifold,

remove the three heat

Remove

the exhaust manifold(s) and

gasket(s) (see illustrations)

If 4 you're removing the rear exhaust manifold, remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake ducting (see Chapter 4). 5 Remove the bolts and nuts that attach the flange(s) of the crossover pipe to the front and/or rear exhaust manifold(s) (see illus-

10

you're removing the rear exhaust manifold, disconnect the exhaust pipe flange

6

If

bolts (see illustration).

shield bolts

(see illustration) and remove the shield.

the block).

tration).

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. 1

$**mi

If

find a single bracket bolt securing the

installation

Refer to

you're removing the rear exhaust manifold, remove the exhaust pipe flange bolts

8.6

2C-7

3.0L V6 engine

Carefully inspect the manifold(s)

and

damage. remove all traces

fasteners for cracks and

1 of old Use a scraper to gasket material and carbon deposits from the manifold and cylinder head mating surfaces. If the gasket was leaking, have the manifold

checked for warpage at an automotive machine shop and resurfaced necessary. if

Installation 12

Position the

new

gasket(s) over the

head studs. Note: Install the gasket with the numbers 1-3-5 on the top onto the

cylinder

rear bank (cylinder head) and install the gasket with the numbers 2-4-6 onto the front bank (cylinder head) (see illustrations).

13

Install

the

manifold and thread the

mounting nuts into place. 14 Working from the center nuts to the torque listed in Specifications

15

Reinstall

in

.

Chapter's

the remaining parts

when connecting 8.9b Rear exhaust manifold lower bolts (arrows)

this

three or four equal steps.

reverse order of removal.

8.9a Front exhaust manifold bolts and dipstick tube bracket bolt (arrows)

out. tighten the

in

the

Use new gaskets

the exhaust crossover pipe

to the exhaust manifold(s).

16

Run the engine and check

for

exhaust

.

leaks.

\

FRONT BANK

8.12b Be sure to install the correct exhaust manifold gasket onto the

corresponding cylinder head

I

2C

.

2C-8

Chapter 2 Part

C 3.0LV6

engine

BOLT-WASHER ASSEMBLY

CRANKSHAFT BOLT 22 mm OR 1/2" SQUARE

CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET

TORSIONAL DAMPER

WAS> CRANKSHAFT PULLEY B

To remove the two-piece pulley from the vibration damper, remove these bolts (arrows); then remove the large center bolt and use a puller to remove the damper 9.4a

Crankshaft pulley/vibration damper - removal and

9

Removal illustrations 9.4a, 9.4b,

9.5a and 9.5b

Disconnect the negative cable from the

1

Loosen the

lug nuts of the right front

wheel, raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Remove the wheel. Remove the right inner splash shield (see illustration 6.5

in

Chapter

2,

Part A).

Remove

3

Chapter

the bolts (see illustration)

and remove the pulley

is

pulley.

damper

Note: The crankshaft

actually a two-piece design (see

illustration).

Wrap

around the vibration damper to protect the belt surface and attach a chain wrench to the pulley. Hold the crankshaft from turning and use a socket wrench to loosen the damper bolt. If you don't have a chain wrench, make a crank holding tool with a piece of angle iron and a 5

9.5a

If

10

a

cloth

you don't have a chain wrench, you

can fabricate a crankshaft holding tool with a piece of angle iron and a couple of bolts of the same thread pitch and diameter as the holes

in

the crankshaft pulley

.

.

remaining parts

in

the

Timing belt - removal, installation and adjustment

and lock the crank by jamming a

screwdriver between the ring gear teeth and

Removal

the bellhousing.

Refer to illustrations 10.5, 10.6a, 10.6b,

6

Remove

the vibration damper.

If

it's

stuck, install a vibration damper/steering

wheel puller onto the damper and pull it off the nose of the crankshaft. Caution: Don't attempt to remove it using a jaw-type puller.

10.6c, 10.6d, 10.7, 10.8, 10.10, 10.11,

10.12a, 10.12b, 10.13a, 10.13b, 10.13c,

10.14

Installation 7

Lightly lubricate the seal contact surface

and position it on the nose of keyway in the pulley with the key in the crankshaft and push the pulley into place by hand. If necessary, tap lightly on the damper using a block of wood and a hammer. 8 Prevent the crankshaft from turning as described in Step 5, then install the bolt and with engine

oil

the crankshaft. Align the

tighten

it

to the torque listed

in this

Chapter's

Specifications.

remove the flywheel/driveplate cover and immobilize the crank by jamming a large screwdriver between the ring gear and the bellhousing

9.5b ... or

and 10.16

Disconnect the cable from the negative

1

terminal of the battery.

2

attaching the pulley to the vibration

Reinstall the

reverse order of removal.

the flywheel/driveplate cover (see illus-

1).

Remove

4

the accessory drivebelts (see

9

the pulley holes (see illustration). Or, remove tration)

battery.

2

9.4b This cross-section view shows the relationship between the two pulley halves and the vibration damper - note the keyway (half-moon piece) which locks the damper onto the nose of the crankshaft

couple of bolts of the correct diameter and thread pitch, drill a couple -of holes in the angle iron the same distance apart as any two holes in the crank pulley, insert the bolts through the angle iron and thread them into

installation

Refer to

CRANKSHAFT PULLEY A

Loosen the

lug nuts

on the

right front

wheel, raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Remove the right front wheel. Remove the right inner splash shield. Position the number one piston at TDC on the compression stroke (see Section 3).

3

4

Remove

the drivebelt for the

air

condi-

compressor and the serpentine belt and power steering pump

tioning

for the alternator

(see Chapter

5

Remove

1).

the tensioner pulley assembly

for the serpentine belt

10.5

Remove

(see illustration).

the bolts (arrows) and

remove the tensioner

pulley

assembly for

the serpentine belt

Chapter 2 Part

C

2C-9

3.0L V6 engine

Remove

the tensioner pulley assembly compressor drivebelt (see illustrations) and the compressor mounting bracket. 7 Remove the bolts from the power steering

6

for the

pump mounting

bracket and set the

pump and

bracket aside (see illustration).

Remove

8

vibration

the

damper

crankshaft

(see Section

9).

and

pulley

Remove

the

crankshaft sprocket flange (see illustration). Note: Don't allow the crankshaft to rotate during

removal of the the

9

pulley.

If

i

the crankshaft moves,

number one piston won be at TDC. 't

Position a floor jack

and a block

of

wood

under the engine oil pan for support. Scribe or mark the relationship of the 10

10.6a Remove these bolts (arrows) and remove the tensioner pulley assembly for the air conditioning compressor drivebelt

engine support assembly to the engine bracket, then remove the

right

engine mount (see

illus-

Remove

this compressor bracket push the compressor and bracket assembly aside and support it

10.6b

bolt (arrow),

with a piece of wire

tration).

ALTERNATOR

POWER STEERING PUMP

2C

10.7 Remove these two bolts from the power steering pump bracket, swing the pump and bracket assembly aside and

DRIVEBELT

TENSIONER

support

A/C

COMPRESSOR

A/C

it

with a piece of wire

COMPRESSOR

IDLER PULLEY

10.6c

An exploded view

you need to remove to get on pre-1991 models

of the parts

at the timing belt covers

ALTERNATOR

TENSIONER ASSEMBLY

removed the crankshaft and vibration damper, remove this

10.8 After you've pulley POWER

crankshaft sprocket flange

STEERING

PUMP POWER STEERING PUMP

DIRECTION Of

ENGINE

An exploded view

ARROW

2

&*

PLATE

10.6d

VIEW IN

BRACKET

9^

^ PULLEY ASSEMBLY

you need to remove to get on 1991 and later models

of the parts

A.C

COMPRESSOR

at the timing belt

covers

remove the right engine mount, remove the bolts from the engine mount bracket and the vehicle body (arrows)

10.10 To

,

1

2C-10

.

C 3.0LV6 engine

Chapter 2 Part

Remove

1

the engine

mount bracket (see

illustration).

Remove

12

the timing belt covers (see

illus-

Note the various type and sizes of bolts by recording a diagram or making specific notes while the timing belt cover is being removed. The bolts must be reinstalled in their

trations).

original locations.

Confirm that the number one piston

13 at

TDC on

that the timing

10.11

Remove these three

10.12a You need to remove a total of ten bolts (arrows) to remove the three timing belt covers (not all the bolts are visible in this photo)

bolts (arrows)

and remove the engine mount bracket

COVER (REAR

BRACKET .HARNESS CUP

REFERENCE)

REAR

COVER D

BRACKET

\ \

HARNESS

marks on

all

three timing belt

sprockets are aligned with their respective

marks (see illustrations).. 14 Relieve tension on the timing belt by loosening the nut on the timing belt tensioner pulley (see illustration). Push the pulley towards the firewall, then retighten the bolt. 15 Check to see that the timing belt is marked with an arrow as to which side faces out. If there isn't a mark, paint one on (only if the same belt will be reinstalled). Slide the stationary alignment

timing belt off the sprockets.

CLIP

BOLTS

is still

the compression stroke by verifying

Check the

condition of the tensioner.

Inspect the timing belt (see illustration).

16

Look

backside (the side without the cracked or peeling, or it's hard, glossy and inflexible, and leaves no indent when pressed with your fingernail, replace

teeth):

at the If

the belt.

it's

Now

look at the drive side:

If

any

teeth are missing, cracked or excessively

worn, replace the

belt.

UPPER REAR COVER

LOWER COVER

10.12b There

UPPER FRONT COVER (OUTER)

/

are four different lengths of timing belt cover bolts bolts are designated as A, B,

C and

-

in this illustration,

the

D, according to their size

10.13a To confirm that the number one piston is still at TDC on the compression stroke, verify that the timing mark on the rear camshaft sprocket .

10.13b ...the front camshaft sprocket

.

and the crankshaft sprocket 10.13c are aligned with their respective stationary alignment marks (some models, such as the one shown, don't have a mark on the crankshaft sprocket, .

so

.

.

you'll

have to make your own)

10.14 belt,

To

.

on the timing nut (arrow) on the timing

relieve tension

loosen this belt tensioner pulley

.

Chapter 2 Part C

3.0L V6 engine

2C-11

ROUNDED EDGE

*£0i ABNORMAL WEAR (FLUFFY

STRAND) RUBBER EXPOSED

CRACKS

10.17a Before installing the timing belt, rotate the tensioner away from the spring

PEELING

(counterclockwise) to the end of the

When you

10.16

inspect the timing

belt,

10.13a, 10.13b

Installation Refer to 17

10.17a and 10.17b

illustrations

Prepare to

install

the timing belt by

away from the

prying the tensioner

spring to

the end of the adjustment slot (see illustration), then temporarily tightening the locking bolt.

these are the conditions you should look for

Make

sure the tensioner spring

positioned properly (see illustration). Install 18 the belt on the crankshaft sprocket first, and simultaneously keep the belt tight on the tension side. 19 Install the belt on the front (radiator side) camshaft sprocket and then onto the water is

pump

pulley and finally the rear camshaft sprocket and timing belt tensioner. Be careful not to nudge the camshaft sprocket(s) or

install

and

Be sure

to

the crankshaft sprocket flange onto the

crankshaft gear (see illustration 10.8).

turning the crankshaft,

coming

the pistons are valves.

slot

it's

.

.

an indication

that

into contact with the

Go back over the procedure

to correct

the situation before proceeding.

Adjustment

23

Make

sure

all

the timing marks are

still

Refer to illustrations 10.23 and 10.25

aligned properly (see illustration) Tighten

Loosen the tensioner nut and let the tensioner assembly spring toward the belt -

the tensioner bolt to the torque listed

the spring tension

tensioner steady with your hand.

21

will

automatically apply the

proper amount of tension to the

belt.

22 Slowly turn the crankshaft clockwise two full revolutions, returning the number one piston to

Caution:

TDC on If

the compression stroke.

excessive resistance

crankshaft gear off the timing marks. Install the timing belt with the directional arrow pointing away from the engine.

20

10.13c). Note:

adjustment

is felt

while

in this

Chapter's Specifications while keeping the

24 Check the deflection of the timing belt by observing the force the tensioner pulley applies to the timing belt.

If

the belt

seems

loose, replace the tensioner spring.

25

TIMING MARK \(AlTERNATOR BRACKET)

Install

the various

tuuhmt had* ,UWNO "***

components removed

TIMING MARK (TIMING BELT COVER INNER (A)

Align the factory-made white lines on

the timing belt with the punch of the

mark on each camshaft sprockets and the crankshaft

sprocket.

Make

sure

all

three sets of timing

marks are properly aligned (see

illustrations

CAMSHAFT SPROCKET (REAR)

CAMSHAFT SPROCKET (FRONT)

TIMING BELT TENSIONER

TIMING MARK

(Oil

PUMP)

CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET TIMING MARK

10.17b ... then temporarily tighten the locking bolt with the spring positioned as shown

10.23 After turning the crankshaft two full revolutions and returning the number one piston to TDC, the timing belt and marks should look like this - if they don't, loosen the

tensioner pulley, remove the

belt, realign

the

marks and

reinstall the belt

2C

2C-12

Chapter 2 Parte 3.0LV6 engine

ALTERNATOR BRACKET

TIMING BELT COVER (UPPER OUTER-B)

ENGINE SUPPORT BRACKET

TIMING BELT COVER (INNER-A)

TIMING BELT COVER (UPPER OUTER-A) TIMING BELT COVER (FRONT LOWER)

TORSIONAL DAMPER

-CRANKSHAFT

PULLY

CRANKSHAFT PULLY 10.25

An exploded view

during disassembly, referring to the appropriate sections

as necessary (see

illus-

of the timing belt

assembly and related components

3 You should be able to slide the crankshaft sprocket (see illustration) off by

hand. If the sprocket is stuck, wedge two screwdrivers behind it and carefully pry the sprocket off the crankshaft. Some sprockets

tration).

11

(A)

(B)

Crankshaft front replacement

oil

seal

are

-

more

difficult

to

remove

crankshaft.

If

the pulley on your engine

really difficult to pry off, don't

Refer to

illustrations 11.3, 11.4, 11.7,

11.8a

pump

and 11.8b 1

Disconnect the negative cable from the

Remove

crankshaft

the drivebelts (see Chapter

pulley

Sections 9 and

and

timing

belt

1),

(see

1 0).

you're lucky, you'll be able to pull the crankshaft sprocket off by hand

11.3

If

damage

the

is oil

with the screwdrivers. Instead, try the

4

If

the sprocket won't

come

loose,

drill

and tap two holes into the face of the sprocket and use a bolt-type puller to slip it off the

crankshaft (see illustration). Caution:

Do not reuse

a drilled sprocket

-

replace

it.

the crankshaft sprocket is stuck on the nose of the crank and you can't pry it off with a pair of screwdrivers, here's the last-resort solution: Drill and tap two holes and remove the sprocket with a 1 1 .4

sprocket

comes

off.

Remove

until

the

the timing belt

plate.

Carefully pry the oil seal out with a 6 screwdriver or seal removal tool. Don't

scratch or nick the crankshaft

Before

in

the process!

apply a coat of multipurpose grease to the inside of the seal (see

7

installation,

illustration).

Fabricate a seal installation tool with a

8

short length of pipe of equal or slightly

following solution.

battery.

2

because

corrosion fuses them onto the nose of the

Turn the bolt of the puller

5

If

bolt-type puller

smaller outside diameter than the seal File

itself.

will bear down on sharp edges. You'll

the end of the pipe that

the seal

until it's free of

also need a large washer,, slightly larger

in

diameter than the pipe, on which the bolt

11.7 Apply a film of grease to the lips of

the new seal before installing it - if you apply a small amount of grease to the outer edge, it will be easier to push into the bore

.

Chapter 2 Part C

11.8a Fabricate a seal installation tool from a piece of pipe and a large washer.

and push the seal into the bore the pipe must bear against the outer edge

1

1.8b

.

.

2C-13

3.0L V6 engine

.

of the seal as the bolt is tightened

12.3 Fabricate a sprocket holding tool from a piece of angle iron and a couple of bolts to lock the camshaft sprocket in place while you loosen the retaining bolt

2C

you're replacing the seal on the remove the inner timing cover bolts (arrows) and remove the cover 12.4a

12.4b If you're removing the seal on the rear camshaft, remove the alternator bracket bolts (arrows) and then remove the bracket

If

front camshaft,

12.5a To remove the distributor drive adapter, remove the distributor hold-down nut (upper arrow), remove the distributor (see Chapter

5)

and remove the three

adapter retaining bolts (arrows)

head can seat (see

illustration). Install the

seal by pressing

into position with the seal

installation tool

see and 9

(see illustration).

When you

the seal stop moving, don't turn

feel

the bolt any

it

oil

more

or you'll

damage

the seal.

nose

Slide the timing belt plate onto the

of the crankshaft.

Make

10 in

sure the Woodruff key

place

is in

the crankshaft.

11

Apply a

the inside of

assembly lube to the timing belt sprocket and

thin coat of

onto the crankshaft.

slide

it

12

Installation of the

nents

is

10 for the timing belt

instal-

and adjustment procedure. Tighten

bolts to the torque values listed Chapter's Specifications.

12

Fabricate a camshaft sprocket holding from a piece of angle iron and a couple of large bolts that will fit through the holes in the sprocket, then lock the camshaft sprocket in place and loosen the sprocket retaining bolt (see illustration). Once the bolt is out, the sprocket can be removed by hand. Note: Don'f mix up the camshaft sprockets. If you're removing both sprockets, mark each one with an "F" (front, radiator side) or an "R" (rear, firewall side). They must be installed on 3

tool

the same cam from which they were removed. 4 If you're replacing the seal for the front camshaft, remove the inner timing belt cover (see illustration). If you're removing the seal for the rear camshaft, remove the alternator

bracket (see illustration) 5

If

you're replacing the seal on the front

it's a good idea to replace the Obetween the distributor drive adapter

camshaft, ring

and the cylinder head. Remove the distributor (see Chapter 5) and the adapter (see illustrations). Note: If you remove the adapter, skip

the reverse of removal.

refer to Section lation

remaining compoBe sure to

crankshaft pulley (see Section 9) and timing belt (see Section 10).

Camshaft

oil

seal

-

in

ORING

all

this

replacement

Refer to illustrations 12.3, 12.4a, 12.4b,

and 12.7b Note: The 3.0L engine is equipped with two camshaft oil seals on the front (timing belt side) as well as two camshaft oil plugs on the 12.5a, 12.5b, 12.6, 12.7a

DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE

ADAPTOR

rear (transaxle side) of the engine. 1

Disconnect the negative battery cable

from the battery. 2

Remove

the drivebelts (see Chapter

12.5b 1),

An exploded view

of the distributor drive adapter

assembly

6

'

Chapter 2 Part C

2C-14

3.0LV6 engine

12.7a You can press a new seal into place with a large socket and a bolt of the proper size and thread pitch (don't let the camshaft turn as the bolt is tightened)

To extract a camshaft seal, drill a couple of small holes in the old seal, thread a pair of sheetmetal screws into the holes and lever the seal out with a » screwdriver and a claw hammer 12.6

sensor) (see Chapter

the following Steps describing on-vehicle seal

replacement. Instead, pry out the old seal, install a new seal with the adapter on the

14

Cylinder head(s)

-

removal and

installation

bench, reattach the adapter, tighten the bolts securely and

6

Drill

install

Note: Allow the engine to cool completely

the distributor.

a couple of small holes

in

the old

a pair of sheetmetal screws into the holes, then carefully remove the old oil seal, thread

seal with a screwdriver

and a claw hammer

(see illustration). Don't nick or scratch the

camshaft in the process. 7 There are several ways to install the new If you've already fabricated the seal. crankshaft seal installation described in Step eight in Section 1 1 use that. It will also work on camshaft seals. If you haven't, use a very large socket (see illustration) with an ,

inside diameter big

enough

nose

If

of the camshaft.

to clear the

you have the socket,

but not the bolt, you can even drive the seal into place

-

you're careful

if

we

illustration), but

recommend

don't

method, because

third

of the

damaging the sprocket (unless you can pull

it

out)

(see

-

this

danger of

positioning

pin

the nose of the

in

cam. 8

If

you replaced the

front

cam

seal,

before beginning

When you

sure the

R

or F

install

the sprocket,

mark faces

out!

make

The side

this

procedure.

TDC

Position the engine at

1

(see Section

Chapter

3).

1).

for the

number

on the

Drain the engine coolant (see

.

means

must face out. 10 Using your

(see Section

the rocker arm components

holding

tighten the bolt to the torque

as 5 Remove the exhaust described in Section 8. Note: If desired, each manifold may remain attached to the cylinder head until after the head is removed from the engine. However, the manifold must still be disconnected from the exhaust system and/or crossover pipe.

Front (radiator side) cylinder head

Remove

6

the distributor (crank angle

of

©3

©7

©6

©2

©4

©

©5

E)l

tool,

listed in this

8

Chapter's Specifications. 11

remaining compo-

Installation of the

nents

is

air

its

hoses.

conditioning compres-

sor bracket (see Chapter

3).

Rear

(firewall side) cylinder

head

Detach the heater hoses and brackets 9 from the transaxle end of the head. Remove the air cleaner housing from the 1 engine compartment (see Chapter 4).

Remove

11

the alternator (see Chapter 5) illustration 12.4b) from the

cylinder head.

Both sides

6).

manifold(s)

the shallow recess

sprocket

doesn't hang by

the

(see Section 5) and hydraulic lash adjusters

the pulley with the deep recess must face the

engine, which

it

air

and bracket (see

7).

Remove

4

make sure Remove

the

cylinder

1

2 Remove the timing belt cover, timing belt and the camshaft sprockets see Sections 10 and 12). Remove the intake manifold (see 3

Section

5).

conditioning compressor from the bracket without disconnecting any hoses (see Chapter 3) and set it aside. It may be helpful to secure the compressor to the vehicle with rope or wire 8

compression stroke

Remove

7

to

Removal

reattach the inner timing belt cover.

9

12.7b As a last resort, you can also drive a cam seal into place with a hammer and a large socket, but make sure you don't damage the sprocket positioning pin on the end of the camshaft

10

mm

ALLEN HEX

the reverse of removal. CYLINDER HEAD BOLT AND WASHER

TIMING

Refer to

12

Loosen the cylinder head bolts with a

12

10

illustration 14.

mm

hex drive

tool in 1/4-turn

increments

they can be removed by hand. Be sure to follow the proper numerical sequence (see until

illustration).

Head

must be reinstalled in their original locations. To keep them from getting mixed up, store them in cardboard holders marked to indicate the bolt pattern. Mark the holders F (front) and R (rear) and indicate the timing belt end of the engine. 14 Lift the head off the block. If resistance is felt, dislodge the head by striking it with a wood block and hammer. If prying is required, pry only on a casting protrusion - be very careful not to damage the head or block! 15 If necessary, remove the camshaft(s) as 13

described

bolts

in

Section 15.

Installation

BELT

Refer to

END

13

r©i

£?5

©2

©6

Valve springs, retainers and seals -

replacement

This procedure

as for the 2.2/2.5 Refer to Chapter

is

liter

essentially the

same

four-cylinder engines.

2, Part A,

procedure outlined there.

©7

and follow the

©3

illustration

Remove all traces of old gasket material 1 from the cylinder heads and the engine block. The mating surfaces of the cylinder heads and block must be perfectly clean when the heads are

14.12 Cylinder head bolt

REMOVAL sequence

14.23

17

installed.

Use a gasket scraper

to

remove

all

traces of carbon and then clean the mating surfaces with lacquer old gasket material,

Chapter 2 Part C

2C-15

3.0L V6 engine

threads to remove corrosion and restore the threads. Dirt, corrosion, sealant and damaged threads will affect torque readings.

2

Ensure that the threaded holes

(see illustration 12.5a)

in

the block

new gaskets over

the dowel

are clean and dry.

20

Position the

heads on the

block without disturbing the gaskets.

22

Lightly

bolts

in their

the threads and

oil

install

original locations. Tighten

the

them

finger tight.

23

Follow the

recommended sequence and

tighten the bolts listed in this

Remove

Section

remove the bolts and anve adapter

the rocker

arm assembly (see

5).

Carefully pry the camshaft plugs from

4

Carefully position the

you're removing the front (radiator

gently pry off the distributor 3

pins on the block.

21

If

side) cylinder head,

the rear section (transaxle end) of the cylinder

head (see illustration). Don't scratch or nick the camshaft in the process! Carefully lift the camshaft from the 5 cylinder head. Inspect the camshaft as described

in

Section 16.

three steps to the torque

in

Chapter's Specifications (see

Installation

illustration).

24 14.23 Cylinder head bolt

If

there's

oil

on the mating

is -

slight, if

it's

it

bolt in a vise

Add

and

filter

coolant and change the engine (see Chapter

1),

and lobes with moly-base grease or engine assembly lube, then install it carefully in the oil

then start the oil

Lubricate the camshaft bearing journals

6

and coolant

head. Don't scratch the bearing surfaces with the

cam

7

lobes!

Install

the

retaining bolts listed in this

15

Camshaft(s)

-

removal and

installation

distributor

and tighten

drive it

adapter

to the torque

Chapter's Specifications.

8

Check

the

crankshaft

to

make

sure the mark on sprocket is still aligned

its mark on the oil pump. Slide the camshaft sprockets onto the camshafts and align the marks on the sprockets with their corresponding marks on the cylinder

with

can be

Removal

excessive,

Refer to 1

illustration 15.4

Position the engine at

compression stroke

and run a die down the

(see Section

for the

TDC on

number

1

the

cylinder

heads. 9

The remaining steps are the reverse

the removal procedure.

3).

BREATHER

\r*f

steps are the

leaks.

machining may be the only alternative. 19 Use a tap of the correct size to chase the threads in the head bolt holes. Mount

each

25

engine and check carefully for

surfaces when the heads are installed, the gaskets may not seal correctly and leaks may develop. Use a vacuum cleaner to remove any debris that falls into the cylinders. 18 Check the block and head mating surfaces for nicks, deep scratches and other

damage. If damage removed with a file

installation

reverse of removal.

TIGHTENING sequence thinner or acetone.

The remaining

ROCKER ARM VALVE COVER

HOSE

SHAFT ASSEMBLY

VALVE COVER

CAMSHAFT (REAR)

CAMSHAFT PLUG

SEAL

DISTRIBUTOR

ADAPTOR

O-RING 15.4

An exploded view

of the cylinder

head assembly

of

2C

2 1

2C-16

Chapter 2 Parte

3.0LV6 engine OIL

PICKUP

OIL LEVEL

SENSOR OR

OIL DRAIN PLUG

PLUG

and a set measure the

16.2 You'll need a dial indicator of V-blocks to

17.11

16.3

Check the rocker arms and

5 -

inspection

and 16.3 check the camshaft bearing pitting, score marks, galling and

illustrations 16.2

shafts for

abnormal wear, pits, galling, score marks and rough spots. Don't attempt to restore rocker arms by grinding the pad surfaces. Replace any defective parts.

Visually

1

surfaces for

abnormal wear. If the bearing surfaces are damaged, the head will have to be replaced. Check camshaft runout by placing the 2 camshaft between two V-blocks and set up a dial indicator on the center journal (see illustration). Zero the dial indicator. Turn the camshaft slowly and note the total indicator reading. Record your readings and compare

them with the specified runout Chapter.

runout

If

in

this

the measured runout exceeds the

listed in this

Chapter's Specifications,

replace the camshaft.

Check the camshaft lobe height by

3

measuring each lobe with a micrometer (see illustration).

the

cam

Compare

Specifications.

cam

the measurement to

lobe height listed

in

of the oil pan and pick-up assemblies

lobe height

Camshaft and bearing surfaces

Refer to

oil

Use a micrometer to measure cam

camshaft runout

16

An exploded view

Chapter's

this

Then subtract the measured

lobe height from the specified height to

compute wear on the cam lobes. Compare wear limit. If it's greater than the specified wear limit, replace the

it

to the specified

camshaft. Inspect the contact and sliding surfaces each hydraulic lash adjuster for scoring or damage (see Section 6). Replace any

4

of

defective parts.

3mm DIAMETER

17

Oil

pan

-

removal and

installation

Removal Refer to

8

the

Unbolt the

assembly (see

17.11

oil

pan

bolts.

Detach the oil pan. Don't pry between 9 the pan and block or damage to the sealing surfaces may result and oil leaks could develop. If the pan is stuck, dislodge it with a hammer and a block of wood. 10 Use a gasket scraper to remove all traces of old gasket material and sealant from the block and pan. Clean the mating surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone. 1

illustration

Remove

oil

pick-up tube and screen

illustration).

Disconnect the negative cable from the

1

Installation

battery.

Raise the vehicle and support

2

it

securely

on jackstands. 3 4

Remove

filter

(see Chapter

Refer to

illustrations

1 7.

14

and

1 7.

15

Replace the gasket on the flange of the oil pick-up tube and reinstall the tube. Tighten the pick-up tube bolts to the torque 1

the under-vehicle splash pan.

Drain the engine

oil

and

install

a

new

oil

Chapter's Specifications. 13 Ensure that the threaded holes in the block are clean (use a tap to remove any sealant or corrosion from the threads). 14 Apply a small amount of RTV sealant (or equivalent) to the oil pump-to-block and rear seal retainer-to-block junctions (see illuslisted in this

1).

Unbolt the exhaust pipe from the rear 5 manifold (see Section 8). Support the engine/transaxle securely 6 with a hoist from above or a jack under the bellhousing. Protect the bellhousing by

wood Warning: Be

block on the jack pad. certain the absolutely engine/transaxle is securely supported! DO NOT place any part of your body under the engine/transaxle - it could crush you if the jack or hoist fails! 7 Unbolt the engine mounts (see Section 21). Raise the engine/transaxle assembly to provide clearance for oil pan removal. placing a

and apply a thin continuous bead along the circumference of the oil pan flange. Note: Allow the sealant to "set-up" (slightly harden) before installing the gasket. 15 Install the oil pan and tighten the bolts in three or four steps following the sequence shown (see illustration) to the torque listed tration)

in this

Chapter's Specifications.

SEALANT MUST NOT

OF RTV

BE FORCED THIS

OUT FROM

?&

FLANGE AREA

13

K BRAKE SWITCH

t$?

wT

r4 DISTANCE

*

,

UPSHIFT LAMP

NEUTRAL

CONDITIONING CLUTCH SWITCH

SENSOR

POWER LOSS LAMP

SAFETY SWITCH

I

I

OXYGEN SENSOR MANIFOLD REFERENCE PICK UP

ABSOLUTE

Q]

DIAGNOSTIC READ OUT

t|L

w

ma

RADIATOR FAN RELAY

f^+

SPEED

PURGE CONTROL SOLENOID

POWER MODULE

Diagram

of a typical EFI

system

the

throttle position or

module

will

so the vehicle can

IGNITION COIL

still

'

IN

FUEL INJECTOR

11.2

in

go into a "limp-in" mode be driven. The logic module stores trouble codes 5 which can be checked using the POWER LOSS/LIMITED light. Refer to Section 14 for more information. the logic

IDLE

MOTOR

THROnLE DISTRIBUTOR

MAP,

coolant temperature sensor circuits. If the fault is severe enough to affect driveability,

SENSOR

POSITION •SENSOR

self-testing

will

ation or a fault

AUTOMATIC

PRESSURE

and a be indicated by the Power Loss/Limited light on the dash. The Power Loss/Limited light will come on when there is electrical system voltage fluctuis

1

COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR

The logic module problem in the system

4

TOOL c A/C CUTOUT RELAY

or

Consequently, diagnosis confined to inspection and

should be checking of all electrical and vacuum connections to make sure they are secure and not obviously damaged.

I

t I

Read Out Tool number C-4805

equivalent.

its

TANK PUMP

(early four-cylinder

ALTERNATOR

12

model shown)

Logic Module (1984 through 1987 EFI models) - removal and installation

tank mounted module receives the input signals from all of the sensors and switches which monitor the engine and then relay

which energizes the

electric fuel

pump. The

fuel

logic

determines the fuel injector operation as well as the spark advance, ignition coil dwell, idle speed, canister purge solenoid, cooling fan operation and alternator charge rate. The electric fuel pump which delivers fuel to the

injectors

and maintains pressure

system,

located

is

in

in

the

the fuel tank (Chapter

4).

Four components which provide basic information so the logic module (see illustration) can operate the EFI system are the 2

Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor, Throttle

Position

Sensor (TPS),

oxygen

sensor and the coolant temperature sensor. The MAP sensor is located on or adjacent to the logic module, is connected to the throttle body by a vacuum line and monitors the manifold vacuum. The TPS is located in the throttle body and monitors the actual position of the throttle lever which is connected to the throttle pedal. The oxygen sensor (located in the exhaust manifold) provides information on the exhaust gas makeup and the temperature sensor (threaded into the water box) monitors engine operating temperature. 3 Because the EFI system is controlled by the logic module and power module or

Refer to

illustrations 12.2, 12.3a.

Disconnect the negative cable

1

The cowl trim panel covering the module is held in place by two screws (arrows)

M fP

at the

battery.

2

Remove

the passenger's side cowl trim

panel (see illustration).

Remove

module off the studs, unplug the connectors and remove the module from the vehicle (see 3

the nuts,

lift

the logic

illustrations).

Installation 4 in

Place the logic module the connectors and

in

install

position, plug

the mounting

nuts. Tighten the nuts securely.

5

Install

the trim panel and connect the

negative battery cable.

SMEC

combination with a variety of sensors and switches, the home mechanic can do very little in the way of diagnosis without factory logic

and

Removal

VACUUM

in

12.2

12.3b

12.3c

CONNECTOR

CONNECTORS

SENSOR

m 12.3a Use a ratchet and deep socket to remove the logic module mounting bolts

12.3b The MAP sensor and Automatic Shutdown Relay are located adjacent to the logic module on 1984 models

12.3c

On 1985 through 1987 models,

MAP

sensor

is

logic

located on the

module

the

g

6-10

Chapter 6

Emissions control systems

ENGINE CONTROLLER OUTPUTS

ENGINE CONTROLLER INPUTS

13

Single Module Engine Controller

(SMEC)/Sing!e Board Engine Controller (SBEC) and

information sensors (1988 and later models) - description

SMEC/SBEC Refer to

LOCKUP TORQUE CONVERTER SOLENOID

ELECTRIC

EXHAUST

GAS DISTRIBUTOR

TRANSDUCER

(EET)

13.2a Single-point EFI system used on the 2.5L engine (typical)

SINGLE

electronic fuel injection (EFI)

The "brain" of all EFI systems is a computer known as a Single Module Engine Controller (SMEC) (1988 and 1989 models) or a Single Board Engine Controller (SBEC) (1990 and later models) (see illustrations). The SMEC/SBEC is located at the front left corner of the engine compartment, between the battery and the left inner fender panel. 2

RECIRCULATION

»»™w.t.

13.2b and 13.2c

illustrations 13.2a,

The

system provides the correct air-fuel ratio under all driving conditions. The 2.2L and 2.5L engines are equipped with a computer-controlled, "single-point" (one injector in the throttle body) electronic fuel injection (EFI) system. The 2.2L and 2.5L turbo and 3.0L engines are equipped with similar "multi-point" (injector in each intake port) EFI systems. 1

DIAGNOSTIC TOOL

MODULE ENGINE CONTROLLER (SMEQ

The SMEC/SBEC receives variable voltage inputs from a variety of sensors, switches and relays. All inputs are converted 3

which are "read" by the

into digital signals

SMEC/SBEC, which

constantly fine-tunes

such variables as ignition timing, spark advance, ignition coil dwell, fuel injector pulse width and idle speed to minimize exhaust emissions and enhance driveability. It

also controls the operation of the radiator

cooling fan, the alternator charging rate and

IN-TANK FUEL

ALTERNATOR

PUMP

such emissions-related components as the EGR solenoids and the purge solenoid for the EVAP canister. The SMEC/SBEC even updates and revises its own programming in response to changing operating conditions. 4

monitors

13.2b Typical multi-point EFI system used on turbo engines

circuits,

ENGINE CONTROLLER INPUTS

SMEC/SBEC

The if

many a

the information

ENGINE CONTROLLER OUTPUTS

of

its

is

own

found

fault is

stored

memory. You really components of the

constantly

also input in

in

and output

the EFI system,

the

SMEC/SBEC

check or test the EFI system without an

can't

expensive factory tool, the Diagnostic (number C-4805) or its Readout Box DRB equivalent, but you can often determine where a problem is coming from, or at least which circuit it's in. This process always begins with reading any stored fault codes to identify the general location of a problem, followed by a thorough visual inspection of the system components to ensure that everything is properly connected and/or plugged in. The most common cause of a problem in any EFI system is a loose or corroded electrical connector or a loose vacuum line. To learn how to output this information and display it on the CHECK ENGINE light on the II

BATTERY

DISTRIBUTOR

EMISSION

MAINTENANCE

COOLANT THROTTLE TRANSMISSION POSITION PARK/NEUTRAL TEMPERATURE SENSOR

SWITCH

REMINDER

AUTOMATIC

(EMR)

IDLE

LAMP

SPEED MOTOR

PURGE SOLENOID ALTERNATOR

SENSOR

AUTO HEATED

OXYGEN SENSOR

LOCKUP TORQUE CONVERTER SOLENOID

SHUTDOWN

OR

RELAY

ELECTRONIC AUTOMATIC

TRANSMISSION

FUEL PUMP

SPEED CONTROL SOLENOIDS

DISTANCE

SENSOR

FUEL INJECTORS

13.2c Multi-point EFI system used on the 3.0L engine

dash, refer to Section 14.

Information sensors 5

Various

information to

components provide basic the SMEC; they include:

6-11

Emissions control systems

Chapter 6

ELECTRICAL

CONNECTION

THREADS

The detonation (knock) sensor used on turbo engines

13.10

COOLANT SENSOR

CHARGE SENSOR

13.8 Typical charge temperature sensor

13.6 Typical array of engine compartment relays, located next to the battery

(3.0L engine)

and coolant temperature

sensor Air conditioning cut-out relay (2.5L, turbo

Charge temperature sensor

and 3.0L engines) Auto shutdown relay (all engines) Brake switch (turbo and 3.0L engines)

engines)

Charge temperature sensor

Refer to

(3.0L engines)

(all

engines)

Neutral safety switch

(all

engines)

Throttle Position

Sensor (TPS)

SMEC/SBEC.

(3.0L engines)

used

turbo and 3.0L engines) The

air

conditioning cut-out relay (see is

connected

in

series electrically

conditioner damped pressure switch, the air conditioner switch and (on 2.5L engines) the radiator/condenser fan relay. The cut-out relay is energized (in its with the

air

when

engine is operating. When the SMEC/SBEC senses a low idle speed, or the throttle position sensor indicates a wide open throttle condition, the cut-out relay is de-energized, its contacts closed

position)

open and the

air

(all

to turn

threaded into the monitors coolant

this information to the

This data, along with the infor-

on the radiator

the

conditioner

clutch

10

illustration 13.

The detonation (knock) sensor (see in

when spark

the combustion chambers.

mounted on the intake manifold (turbo) where detonation in each cylinder can be It's

MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE

M PRESSURE (MAP)

(3.0L engines) to create a pulsing signal that is sent to the SMEC/SBEC. These electronic

mation.

Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor (all engines) Refer to

and

A

C

illustrations 13.12a, 13.12b,

13.12c

13.1 2d

The MAP sensor (see illustrations) is 12 located on the firewall. It monitors intake manifold vacuum through a vacuum line to the throttle body. The MAP sensor transmits this data, along with data on barometric in

the form of a variable voltage

output to the SMEC/SBEC. When combined with data from other sensors, this information helps the SMEC/SBEC determine the correct air-fuel

10

illustration) generates a signal

knock occurs

shutter

pressure,

fan.

engines) Refer to

The distributor uses an internal and Hall effect sensor (2.5L engines) or an internal metal disc and optical sensor

engines).

is

Detonation (knock) sensor (turbo

illustration 13.6

1991 2.5L and 3.0L engines, engine speed input is supplied to the SMEC/SBEC by the distributor Hall effect pick-up (2.5L engines) or the optical system pick-up (3.0L

On

pulses are converted to engine rpm infor-

mation from the charge temperature sensor, is used by the SMEC/SBEC to determine the correct air/fuel mixture and idle speed while the engine is warming up. The sensor is also

Air conditioning cut-out relay (2.5L,

illustration)

which

housing, thermostat temperature and sends

engines)

Refer to

ratio of fuel to air.

illustration 13.8),

Transmission neutral-safety switch (turbo and 3.0L engines) Vehicle distance sensor (2.5L and turbo

speed sensor

illustration 13.8

engines) 9 The coolant temperature sensor (see

(all

and

3.0L engines) 11

Coolant temperature sensor

engines)

Vehicle

(3.0L

The charge temperature sensor (see illustration), which is mounted in the underside of the intake manifold, measures the temperature of the incoming air and sends this information to the SMEC/SBEC. This data is used by the SMEC/SBEC to modify the

Oxygen sensor (all engines) Speed control switch (all engines) Throttle body temperature sensor (1988 and later 2.5L engines)

advance and eliminate detonation. Distributor pick-up (1991 2.5L

8

Coolant temperature sensor (all engines) Detonation (knock) sensor (turbo engines) Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor

6

engines)

(all

detected. The sensor provides information used by the SMEC/SBEC to modify spark

mixture

ratio.

Miscellaneous switches

(all

engines)

Various switches (such as the trans13 mission neutral safety switch, the air conditioning switch, the speed control switch and

MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE

DAMPEN PRESSURE

~

PRESSURE

CYCLING SWITCH

SENSOR I

SENSOR

is

prevented from engaging. The cut-out relay is located on the left inner fender panel, next to the battery and right

Auto shutdown 7

If

relay

above the SMEC/SBEC. (all

engines)

there's no ignition (distributor) signal

and 3.0L engines) present when the ignition key is turned to the Run position, the auto shutdown relay interrupts power to the electric fuel pump, the fuel injectors, the ignition coil and (on 1987 and later models) the heated oxygen sensor. The cut-out relay is located on the left inner fender panel, next above the right the battery and to

MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE

(2.5L, turbo

SMEC/SBEC.

PRESSURE (MAP)

UPDATE

13.12a Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor used on 1987 through 1989 2.5L

engines and 1987 and 1988 3.0L engines

BAROMETRIC SOLENOID

13.12b Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor used on the 1989 turbo engine

g

6-12

Emissions control systems

Chapter 6

motor under

FUEL PRESSURE

MAP SENSOR

to maintain the desired

MAP

value;

the SMEC/SBEC adjusts the AIS motor to maintain the desired

REGULATOR

conditions,

idle

engine speed.

Self-diagnosis system -

14

description and code access

l

Note

PLENUM VACUUM CONNECTOR

AIR INTAKE

MAP SENSOR 3-WAY ELECTRICAL'^^j^^P" CONNECTOR

^ ^W

13.12c Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP)

sensor used on 1989 and 3.0L engines

later

1

Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor used on 1990 and later 2.5L and turbo engines

13.1 2d Manifold

and hoses. Make sure all electrical connections are tight, clean and free of corrosion; make sure all hoses are properly connected, fit tightly and are in good condition (no cracks or

tears).

the

light

switch) provide information to

SMEC/SBEC, which

adjusts

engine

accordance with what switch states are present at these inputs. The state operation

in

of these switch inputs (high/low)

determine without the

DRB

is difficult

II

to

diagnostic

meter.

Oxygen sensor Refer to

engines)

(all

13.14

illustration

The oxygen sensor (see illustration), which is mounted in the exhaust manifold 14

on the 3.0L engines), produces a voltage signal when exposed to the oxygen present in the exhaust gases. The sensor is electrically heated internally for (the rear manifold

faster switching

when

When

lot

there's a

of

the engine

is

running.

oxygen present

(lean

Throttle Position illustration

other sensors, enables the computer to adjust the air/fuel ratio in accordance with the operating conditions, such as acceleration, deceleration, idle

body temperature sensor

Throttle

(2.5L engine)

15

The

which

body temperature sensor, mounted in the throttle body,

and wide open

throttle.

Vehicle distance (speed) sensor (2.5L and turbo engines) 17 The vehicle distance (speed) sensor, the transaxle extension housing, senses vehicle motion. It generates eight pulses for every revolution of the is

located

monitors the temperature of the throttle body (fuel temperature). When transmitted to the SMEC/SBEC, this data helps determine the correct air/fuel mixture during a hot restart

driveaxle and transmits

are

them as voltage

SMEC/SBEC. These

compared by the SMEC/SBEC

signals with a

from the throttle can distinguish between a closed throttle deceleration and a normal idle (vehicle stopped) condition. Under decel conditions, the SMEC/SBEC controls the AIS closed

throttle

signal

position sensor so

it

FUEL SUPPLY

QUICK CONNECT FITTING

condition.

for three

seconds as a bulb

1

to

diagnose problems

The

self-diagnosis

contained

accessed

in

in

the

the EFI system.

information

SBEC/SMEC

can

either by the ignition key or

be by

using a special tool called the Diagnostic Readout Box (DRB II). This tool is attached to the diagnostic connector in the engine

compartment and reads the codes and parameters on the digital display screen. The tool is expensive and most home mechanics prefer to use the alternate method. The drawback with the ignition key method is that does not access all the available codes for display.

If

you're

still

unable to determine the

cause of a problem after extracting any stored codes, have the vehicle's selfdiagnosis system analyzed by a dealer service department or other properlyequipped repair shop. 2 To obtain the codes using the ignition key method, first set the parking brake and put the transaxle in Park (automatic) or Neutral (manual). Raise the engine speed to approximately 2500 rpm and slowly let the speed down to idle. Also cycle the air condi-

system (on briefly, then off). Next, if is equipped with an automatic transmission, with your foot on the brake, select each position on the transmission (Reverse, Drive, Low etc.) and bring the shifter back to Park. This will allow the computer to obtain any fault codes that might be linked to any of the sensors controlled by the transmission, engine speed or air conditioning

the vehicle

tioning system.

SENSOR OUTPUT (BLACK WIRE)

To display the codes on the dashboard (CHECK ENGINE or Power Loss/Limited light), turn the ignition key ON, OFF, ON, OFF and finally ON. The codes will begin to flash. The light will blink the number of the first digit then pause and blink the number of the second digit. For example: Code 23, throttle body temperature sensor circuit, would be indicated by two flashes, then a pause 3

THROTTLE POSITION

SENSOR (TPS)

POWER AND

GROUND

used

in

throttle

is

on

when the engine is started. The light comes on and stays on when there's a problem in the EFI system and can also be test

it

signals to the

sensor acts as a lean-rich switch. The voltage signal to the SMEC/SBEC alters the pulse width of the injector(s).

13.16

16 The TPS (see illustration), which is located on the throttle body, monitors the angle of the throttle plate. The voltage produced increases or decreases in accordance with the opening angle of the throttle plate. This data, when relayed to the SMEC/SBEC, along with data from several

and converting

to electrical voltage, the

2:

panel, flashes

Refer to

which

it

(all

engines)

produces a low voltage signal; when there's little oxygen present (rich mixture), it produces a signal of higher voltage. By monitoring the oxygen content mixture), the sensor

Sensor (TPS)

On

the models covered by this manual, the CHECK ENGINE or Power Loss/Limited light, located in the instrument

Note

the brake

Before outputting the trouble codes, ALL electrical connectors

:

thoroughly inspect

4-WAY ELECTRICAL

CONNECTOR

13.14 Typical heated oxygen sensor used

on

all

engines

13.16 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) on the throttle body of a 2.5L engine with single-point EFI

followed by three flashes.

4

Certain criteria must be met for a fault

1

Chapter 6

2400 rpm, the MAP sensor output circuit shorts to ground and will not allow a fault code to be entered into the memory. Then

code to be entered into the engine controller memory. The criteria may be a specific range of engine rpm,

engine temperature or input

voltage to the engine controller. that a fault

code

It

for a particular

is

again, the exact opposite could occur:

possible

may not be entered into the memory despite a malfunction. This may happen because one of the fault code criteria has not been met. For example, the engine must be circuit

operating between 750 and 2000 rpm in order to monitor the Map sensor circuit correctly. If the engine speed is raised above

Fault

code

Code 88 Code 1 Code 12

in the computer for the oxygen other words, the sensors and

each other and with the fuel injection system. The following table is a list of the trouble 5 codes, the circuit or system which is causing the code and a brief description of the nature circuits are highly interrelated with

A

the

of

problem.

From the descriptions

provided, you should be able to troubleshoot the faulty circuit or component.

If

you

can't,

take the vehicle to a dealer service department or other qualified repair shop.

.Start of test (pre- 1988

No ignition reference signal Number of key-ons since last

Slow change

.No distributor reference signal detected during engine cranking.

were erased

in

MAP

models)

fault

Direct battery input to controller disconnected within last 50 to

**

In

Description of fault condition

N/A

13*

sensor.

is

Circuit

or since faults

Code

stored code

entered into the memory that suggests a malfunction within another component that is not monitored by the computer. For example, a fuel pressure problem cannot register a fault directly but will instead cause a rich/lean fuel mixture problem. Consequently, this will cause an oxygen sensor malfunction, resulting in a

code

monitored

6-13

Emissions control systems

100

No

idle signal

ignition key-ons.

variation

in

MAP

sensor signal

is

detected.

or

Code

**

14*

MAP

MAP from

voltage too low

No difference is recognized between the engine MAP reading and the stored barometric pressure reading. MAP sensor input below minimum acceptable voltage.

voltage too high

MAP

No change

in

Start to

Run

or

MAP Code 15" Code 16* " Code 17 Code

21**

No

sensor input above

maximum

acceptable

level.

speed signal Battery input sense

No

Engine runs cold too long

Engine coolant temperature remains below normal operating temperatures during vehicle travel (thermostat problem). Neither rich nor lean signal is detected from oxygen sensor input.

vehicle

Oxygen sensor

distance sensor signal detected during road load conditions.

Battery voltage sense input not detected during engine running.

signal stays at center

or

Oxygen sensor shorted

Code

22*

**

to voltage

Coolant sensor voltage too low

Oxygen sensor input voltage maintained above normal range (1990 and later models). Coolant temperature sensor input below minimum acceptable voltage,

or

Coolant sensor voltage too high

Code 23

Throttle

body temperature voltage low

Coolant temperature sensor input above maximum acceptable voltage. Throttle body temperature sensor input below minimum acceptable voltage (single-point EFI systems only),

or Throttle

body temperature voltage high

body temperature sensor input above maximum acceptable voltage (single-point EFI systems only),

Throttle

or

Charge temperature voltage low

Charge temperature sensor input below the minimum acceptable voltage (1988 and 1989 3.0L engines only),

or

Sensor voltage low

Charge temperature sensor input above the maximum acceptable voltage (1988 and 1989 3.0L engines only). Throttle position sensor input below minimum acceptable

Sensor voltage high

Throttle position sensor input

Charge temperature voltage high

Code

24*

**

Throttle Position

voltage.

or Throttle Position

above maximum acceptable

voltage.

Code Code

25**

26*

Automatic **

Injector

1

Idle Speed motor peak current

circuits

Shorted condition detected in one or more of AIS control circuits. High resistance condition detected in injector output circuit (pre- 1990 single-point systems),

or

INJ

1

peak current not reached

High resistance condition detected in the INJ 1 injector bank (1989 turbo and all multi-point systems),

circuit

or

INJ 2 peak current not reached

High resistance condition detected in the INJ 2 injector bank (1989 turbo and all multi-point systems)

circuit

or

INJ 3 peak current not reached

High resistance condition detected in the INJ 3 injector bank (all multi-point systems, except turbos).

circuit

6-14 Code

Chapter 6 "

27*

Injector

1

Emissions control systems

control circuit.

.Injector

output driver doesn't respond properly to the control

signal (single-point systems).

or

INJ

control circuit

1

Injector

number one output

driver doesn't respond properly and multi-point systems),

control signal (turbo

to the

or

INJ 2 control circuit

Injector

number two output

driver doesn't respond properly and multi-point systems),

control signal (turbo

to the

or

INJ 3 control circuit

number three output

Injector

driver doesn't

to the control signal (1990 turbo

and

all

respond properly

multi-point systems),

or

INJ 4 control circuit

Injector

number four output

driver doesn't

respond properly to the

control signal (1990 turbo systems).

Code 31" Code 32**

Purge solenoid

EGR

An open An open

circuit

solenoid circuit

(some

or shorted condition detected

in

purge solenoid

or shorted condition detected

in

the

EGR

circuit.

solenoid circuit

California models),

or

EGR system

Required change

failure

in air/fuel ratio

not detected during diagnostic

(some California models). An open or shorted condition detected

test

Code 33

Air conditioning clutch relay circuit

in

the

in

the speed control

in

the radiator fan

in

the turbocharger

air

conditioning

clutch relay circuit.

Code 34

Speed

Code 35

Radiator fan relay circuit

control solenoid circuits

An open or shorted condition detected vacuum or vent solenoid circuits. An open or shorted condition detected relay circuit.

Code

**

36*

An open

Wastegate solenoid

or shorted condition detected

wastegate control solenoid

Code 37

Part throttle unlock solenoid circuit **

41*

or shorted condition detected

in

the torque converter

part throttle unlock solenoid circuit (automatic transaxles only).

4

Code

An open

circuit (turbos only).

Alternator field not switching properly

An open

or shorted condition detected

in

the alternator

in

the auto shutdown relay

field

control circuit.

Code 42

Auto shutdown

relay control circuit

An open

or shorted condition detected

circuit.

or

No Z1

Z1 voltage sense

(turbo

voltage sensed

systems

when auto shutdown

relay

is

energized

only),

or

No ASD

relay voltage

sense

at controller

No ASD

relay voltage

ASD

sensed when

relay

is

energized (1991

multi-point systems).

Code 43

Output driver stage

Ignition control circuit

for ignition coil

doesn't respond properly

to the dwell control signal (1989 turbos).

Code 44

FJ2 voltage sense

Code 45

Boost

limit

exceeded

Code

46*

**

Charging system voltage too high

Code

47*

**

Charging system voltage too low

Code

51**

Oxygen sensor

signal stays

below center

Code

52**

Oxygen sensor

signal stays

above center

No FJ2 voltage present at logic board during controller operation (1988 and 1989 single-point systems; 1988 and 1989 multi-point systems; turbo models). MAP reading above overboost limit detected during engine operation (turbo systems only). Battery voltage sense input above target charging voltage during engine operation. Battery voltage sense input below target charging voltage during engine operation, and no significant change in voltage detected during active test of alternator output. Oxygen sensor signal input indicates lean fuel/air ratio condition during engine operation. Oxygen sensor signal input indicates rich fuel/air ratio condition during engine operation,

or

Adaptive

Excessive leaning

fuel value

leaned excessively due to a sustained

rich condition.

Code 53 Code 54*

engine controller fault condition detected. signal detected during engine rotation. Completion of fault code display on the Check Engine light (turbos only). Completion of fault code display on the Check Engine light. An open or shorted condition detected in the BARO read solenoid

Internal controller failure **

No sync

Code 55 Code 61*

N/A

Code 62

Controller failure

BARO

Internal

No sync

pick-up signal

read solenoid

circuit (turbo

(EMR

miles not stored)

controller

Code 63

Controller failure

(EEPROM

write denied)

models

only).

Unsuccessful attempt to update

EMR

mileage

in

the

EPROM.

Unsuccessful attempt to write to an

EEPROM

location by

the controller. *

**

These codes light up the Check Engine or Power Loss/Limited light on the instrument panel. These codes light up the Check Engine or Power Loss/Limited light on the instrument panel on vehicles with special

controls.

California emissions

77

4 5

1

Chapter 6

6-15

Emissions control systems

Information sensors - check and replacement

15

Charge temperature sensor (3.0L engines) - replacement Note: This sensor requires a special factory (DRB- 1 1) to diagnose voltage and resistance values under specific working conditool

diagnostic tests are required,

tions. If further

have the sensor and the circuit diagnosed by a dealer service department or a qualified automotive repair shop. Refer to

illustration 75.

Charge temperature and coolant temperature sensors (3.0L engine)

sensor.

Unscrew the sensor. Coat the threads of the new sensor

3 4

the old one, tape,

5

screw

you're reinstalling

if it

in

it)

(or

with teflon

and tighten securely.

Reattach the

electrical

connector.

Coolant temperature sensor General description Refer to

6

illustration 15.6

The coolant temperature sensor (see

illustration)

is

a thermistor

varies the value of

its

(a resistor

voltage output

in

which

from the coolant temperature sensor. As the sensor temperature DECREASES, the resistance values will INCREASE. As the sensor temperature INCREASES, the resistance values will DECREASE. A failure in this sensor circuit affect the voltage signal

should set a Code 22. This code indicates a failure in the coolant temperature sensor

so

in

most cases the appropriate

problem will be either repair a wire or replacement of the sensor. solution to the

of

Check Refer to 7

illustration 15.

To check the sensor, check the

engine shown, turbo model similar)

tance value (see illustration) of the coolant temperature sensor while it is completely cold (50 to 80 degrees F = 5,000 to 5,600 ohms). Next, start the engine and warm it up until it reaches operating temperature. The resistance should be lower (180 to 200 degrees F = 900 to 1 ,000 ohms). Note: Access to the coolant temperature sensor makes it difficult to position electrical

probes on the terminals. If necessary, remove the sensor and perform the tests in a pan of heated water to simulate the condi-

resis-

screw

Replacement Warning: Wait until the engine is completely cool before replacing the coolant temperature sensor.

The coolant temperature sensor is mounted in the thermostat housing (see illustration 15.6 for the 2.5L and illustration 8

in,

it

tighten securely

and reattach the

electrical lead.

12 if

Check

the coolant level and

add coolant

necessary.

Detonation (knock) sensor (turbo engines) - replacement Refer to

illustrations 15.

13

and

15. 14

Note: This sensor requires a special factory

(DRB- 1 1) to diagnose voltage and resistance values under specific working condi-

tool

tions.

tions.

accor-

dance with temperature changes). The change in the resistance values will directly

circuit,

15.6 Coolant temperature sensor (2.5L

15.1

Locate the charge temperature sensor on the right (passenger side) end of the air intake plenum (see illustration). 2 Unplug the electrical connector from the 1

further diagnostic tests are required,

If

have the sensor and the circuit diagnosed by a dealer service department or a qualified automotive repair shop. 13 Unplug the electrical connector to the detonation (knock) sensor (see illustration). 1

Unscrew the sensor (see

1

Installation

is

illustration)

the reverse of removal.

15.7 for 3.0L engine.

9

Open

residual radiator

the radiator cap to release any pressure. Squeeze the upper

hose and

create a slight

reinstall

vacuum

in

the cap

(this will

the cooling system,

which.will minimize coolant loss). 1 Unplug the electrical connector from the coolant temperature sensor, unscrew the sensor and remove it. 1 Coat the threads of the new sensor (or

the old one,

if

you're reinstalling

it)

with teflon

tape, or a non-hardening thread sealant,

FUEl INJECTORS

WIRING

of

worn or

besides lubricant leaks, is a clicking noise in turns, a clunk when accelerating from a coasting condition or vibration at highway speeds. To check for wear in the CV joints and driveaxle shafts, grasp each axle (one at a time) and rotate it in both directions while holding the CV joint housings. Watch for movement, indicating worn splines or sloppy CV joints. Also, check the driveaxle shafts for cracks and joints,

distortion.

7

Driveaxles

-

removal and

installation

Removal Refer to

illustrations 7.1, 7.2a, 7.2b, 7.7

and

7.8

Remove the wheel cover (or hub cover). Remove the front hub nut cotter pin, nut lock and wave washer, if equipped. With the 1

weight of the vehicle on the wheels, loosen the hub nut. Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise

the front of the vehicle and SAGINAW 2200 AUTOMATIC

SAGINAW AUTOMATIC

SAGINAW MANUAL

6.4b Use this chart to identify the driveaxles used on later models

support

it

securely on jackstands (apply the parking brake and block the rear wheels). Remove the lug nuts, the front wheel, the hub nut and the big washer (see illustration).

On some 1982 models with an automatic transaxle, the inner ends of the driveaxle are retained by circlips which must be released before the driveaxle can be removed. Remove the differential cover (see Chapter 1, Section 39) and rotate the driveaxle to expose the circlip tangs (see 2

supported

various lengths and angles. These bearings

by a bearing and bracket. The inner end of the intermediate shaft is connected to the differential side gear via a Cardan-type joint. Each driveaxle assembly consists of

must be lubricated with special grease and

at

which the two are connected

three parts:

A

"Rzeppa"

type

is

"tripod" type inner

outer

CV

CV

joint

joint,

and

axleshaft which connects the two. Outer

grease leaking out. Torn boots and moisture to enter the CV joints;

CV

wear and

if

dirt

not fixed, a simple tear accelerates bearing

eventually

causes

their

range of travel, ball bearings inside the CV housings allow them to operate at

premature

failure.

The vehicles covered by this manual can be equipped with driveaxles manufactured by ACI, Citroen, GKN, SSG or Saginaw (see illustrations).

If,

after referring to the illus-

unable to determine the manufacturer, take the driveaxle assembly with you when buying boots or CV joint parts. Don't try to substitute one brand of driveaxle for another or swap parts from one brand to

tration, you're

still

another.

Inspection Periodically, inspect the

gears.

joint

and/or allow

housings on both equal and unequal length driveaxles have a splined stub axle which engages with the front hub and is retained by a large nut. Inner CV joint housings have a short, splined stub axle which engages with the differential side gear (the CV joint housing for the right driveaxle on equal length systems engages with the intermediate shaft). The inner splined end of the CV joint housing is held in place by a spring inside the CV joint housing which pushes the housing toward the transaxle, keeping the stub axle fully seated in the differential side

by rubber boots. You should

periodically inspect these boots for tears

an an

joint

As the driveaxles move through

protected

boots for leaks,

damage and deterioration (see Chapter 1). Replace damaged CV joint boots immediately or the CV joints may be damaged. You

7.1 If there's no assistant handy to apply the brakes while you unscrew the hub nut, use a large screwdriver or pry bar to immobilize the hub

8

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles illustration).

Compress the

circlip

8-7

tangs with

a pair of needle-nose pliers and use a screwdriver to

push the axleshaft

into the splined

cavity of the side gear (see illustration). Pull

the axle out slightly.

3

If

you're removing the right driveaxle

from a vehicle with unequal length driveaxles, remove the speedometer drive gear (see Chapter 7) prior to removing the right axle. 4 Remove the steering knuckle-to-balljoint clamp bolt (see Chapter 1 0). Disconnect the stabilizer bar from the 5 suspension arm to allow enough movement to separate the balljoint (see Chapter 10). Pry the lower balljoint stud out of the steering 6 knuckle (see Chapter

10).

Grasp the outer CV steering knuckle and pull the 7

joint

and the 7.2a The driveaxle retaining circlips (arrows) are difficult to see and may be hard to reach with a pair of pliers

steering knuckle

out to separate the driveaxle from the hub

(see illustration). Be careful not to damage the CV joint boot. Caution: Don't pry on or

damage

the wear sleeve on the

separating

the circlip tangs while

pushing the shaft into the side gear

differential

CV joint when

from the hub.

it

Pry the inner end of the

8

Compress

7.2b

CV

joint

out of

the differential (or intermediate shaft) with a large screwdriver or prybar (see illustration).

The driveaxles, when in place, secure the hub bearing assemblies. If the vehicle must be supported or moved on the front 9

wheels while the driveaxles are out, install bolts through the hubs and thread nuts onto them to keep the bearings from loosening.

Installation clean the wear sleeve on the driveaxle outer CV joint and the 10

Prior to installation,

seal

in

lip

and

fill

with grease. Apply a 1/4-inch

the seal cavity

bead

grease to the wear sleeve seal contact area as well. 11 Apply a small amount of multi-purpose grease to the splines at each end of the driveaxle. Place the driveaxle in position and carefully insert the inner

end

of

of the shaft into

the transaxle.

Push the steering knuckle out and

the outer splined shaft of the

CV joint

insert

into the

hub.

13

Insert the balljoint stud into the steering

knuckle,

install

the clamp bolt and tighten

to the torque listed in the

cations. Caution: This

is

it

Chapter 10 Specifi-

a self-locking bolt.

If

worn, replace it with an equivalent new bolt. Don't use an ordinary bolt. 14 Reattach the stabilizer bar (see Chapit's

Install

the speedometer drive gear (see

Chapter 7). 16 Install the wheels and hand tighten the wheel lug nuts. Install the spacer washer and

hub nut and to tighten

17 lug

screwdriver or pry bar

Driveaxle position check Refer to

illustration 7.21

19

models have engine mounts with

All

slotted

it

tighten the nut securely (don't try

holes that allow for side-to-side

positioning of the engine.

If

the vertical bolts

on the right or left upper engine mounts have been loosened for any reason, or if the vehicle has been damaged structurally at the front end, driveaxle length must be checked/corrected. A driveaxle that's shorter than required will result in objectionable noise, while a driveaxle that's longer than necessary may result in damage.

20 The vehicle must be completely assembled, the front wheels must be properly aligned and pointing straight ahead and the weight of the vehicle must be on all

Using a tape measure, check the distance from the inner edge on the outside of the boot to the inner edge of inside the

Chapter's Specifications, then the wave washer, nut lock and a new

install

cotter pin.

Compare

length listed

Take

the

lower edge of the o'clock position) (see illusthe

in this

measurement with the

Chapter's Specifications.

Note that the required dimension varies with transaxle type and driveaxle manufacturer (see illustrations 6.4a and 6.4b to identify the driveaxle type).

22

If

mount

the dimensions aren't as specified, the bolts

can be loosened and the engine

repositioned to obtain the specified driveaxle lengths.

within

If

the engine can't be

moved enough

range of the slotted

the

mounts, check

for

damaged

engine

or distorted

support brackets and side rails. 23 If the engine is moved, see Chapter 7

and adjust the

shift linkage.

8

Intermediate shaft (turbo models only)

-

removal and

INBOARD BOOT

^

TAPE LOCATION

to the specified torque yet).

Tighten the driveaxle hub nut to the torque

driveaxles (six tration).

driveaxles.

the

at

installation OUTBOARD BOOT

r =

Removal

-*

Refer to

Specifications. 1

both

21

Lower the vehicle and tighten the wheel nuts to the torque listed in the Chapter 1

listed in this

on

boot

measurement

four wheels.

ter 10).

15

end of the CV joint out of the differential side gears with a large

7.8 Pry the inner

the hub. Lubricate the entire circum-

ference of the seal

12

Swing the steering knuckle away from the transaxle and pull out the driveaxle

7.7

1

7.21

Measure the distance between

arrows to

verify that the driveaxle is the

correct length

when

installed

tion

illustration

Remove

8.3

the right driveaxle (see Sec-

7).

Remove the speedometer drive gear from the transaxle extension housing (see Chapter 7). 2

8

8-8

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles

i

driveaxles (see Section 7) and identify which types of CV joints are installed (see Section 6). Place one of the driveaxles in a vise, 2 using wood blocks to protect it from the vise jaws. If the CV joint has been operating properly with no noise or vibration, replace

BUSHING AND ROLLERS

SCREW

BRACKET

in Section 1 0. If the CV badly worn or has run for some time with no lubricant due to a damaged boot, it should be disassembled and inspected.

the boot as described SEAL SEAL

joint is

SEAL RETAINER

BUSHING

OUTER

RETAINER

SLINGER

INNER SLINGER

BEARING ASSEMBLY

SEAL RETAINER

Inner

CV joint

Refer to

illustrations 9.3

through

9. 7, 9.8a,

9.8b, 9.10, 9.11a, 9.11b, 9.12, 9.15, 9.16a,

9.16b, 9.16c, 9.18, 9.19, 9.20, 9.24, 9.26a,

and 9.27b Remove the clamps and

9.26b, 9.26c, 9.27a SEAL

y^

^P ^^\.

^X^

RETAINER

BUSHING

BUSHING

AND

RETAINER

8.3

An exploded view

ROLLERS

of the intermediate shaft

assembly

OAM>-

CAGE CROSS

3 slide the boot back to gain access to the tripod (see illustration). Depending on the type of CV joint involved, separate the tripod from the housing as follows. 4 Citroen driveaxles utilize a tripod retainer ring wWch is rolled into a groove in the housing. Slightly deform the retainer ring at each roller with a screwdriver (see illustration). The retention spring will push the housing from the tripod. The retainer can also be cut carefully from the housing. New rings are included in the rebuild kit and can be installed by rolling the edge into the machined groove in the housing with a hammer and punch.

\ BUSHING

/

(DRIVER)

HOUSNG (RIGHT

MOUSING (OUTER)

SDE SHOWN)

5 On early GKN driveaxles, the retaining tabs are an integral part of the housing cover. Hold the housing and lightly compress the

COUAR

retention spring while bending the tabs

with

INTERCONNECTING SHAH

DAWKS WEIGHT SEC ONLY,

iFAmxxif)

9.3

3

Remove

An exploded view

of a typical driveaxle

assembly

the bearing bracket mounting

9

bolts (see illustration).

Place a drain pan underneath the right side of the transaxle to catch any lubricant that leaks out during removal of the intermediate shaft. Grasp the intermediate shaft securely with both hands and pull it out of the 4

transaxle.

pair

of

pliers

(see

back

illustration).

Support the housing as the retention spring pushes it off the tripod. This will prevent the housing from reaching an unacceptable angle and keep the tripod rollers from being pulled from the tripod studs. On later GKN driveaxles, secure the CV 6 joint housing in a vise. Hold the shaft at an angle and pull on it gently to free one of the tripod rollers (see illustration). Detach the other tripod rollers in the same manner and

naroo

s |l£FT

a

Constant velocity (CV) joints disassembly, inspection and reassembly

take the housing

-

On SSG

7

retained

in

off.

driveaxles,

the

tripod

is

the housing with a wire ring which

expands

Loosen the hub nut and the wheel lug and support it securely on jackstands. Remove the 1

nuts, then raise the vehicle

Installation

into a groove around the top of the housing. Using a screwdriver, pry this ring out of the groove (see illustration) and slide the tripod from the housing. On ACI driveaxles, the tripod retaining 8 tabs are part of the boot retaining collar,

Place the intermediate shaft and bearing in position and carefully insert the splined stub axle into the transaxle. 6 Place the bearing bracket in position, install the bracket mounting bolts and tighten them to the torque listed in this Chapter's 5

assembly

Specifications.

Lubricate the splines inside the pilot bore of the intermediate shaft with a liberal

7

amount 8 9

of multi-purpose grease.

Install

GKN

the right driveaxle (see Section

7).

Check and, if necessary, add the recommended type of transaxle lubricant to bring

it

TRIPOD RETAINING TABS

up

to the proper level (see

Chapter

1).

9.4 Carefully pry

each bearing

up on the retainer ring disassemble a

roller to

Citroen driveaxle inner

CV joint

at

9.5

To separate the

on an

earlier

tripod from the housing

GKN inner CV joint, bend up

the retaining tabs with a pair of pliers

1

.

8-9

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles BOOT RETAINING CCHLAR

WIRE RING TRIPOD RETAINER interconnecting bah

TWCO

TRIPCO

HOUSNG

BEARING

RIPOO RETAINING TABS

9.8a

On 1984 ACI

driveaxles, align the tabs and snap them out, one at a time

rollers with the

9.7 To separate the tripod from the housing on an SSG inner CV joint, pry out this expander ring with a screwdriver

SNAP

HNG PIOS

To separate the tripod from the housing on a later-type GKN inner CV 9.6

TRJPOO

hold the shaft at an angle to the housing and pull on it gently to disengage each of the rollers in turn joint,

•COT RETAINING COLLAR

9.10 The tripod on all except later GKN driveaxles is held on the axleshaft by a snap-ring - remove it with a pair of snap-

TRIPOD RETAINING TABS

ring pliers

9.8b

To separate the

tripod from the

ACI inner CV joint, spring and bend back each compress the housing on a

later

tab with pliers

which

is

staked

in

place.

On 1984 models,

housing while angling

the joint slightly so that the rollers can be

snapped through the

tabs,

one

at

a time. Be

careful not to angle the joint too far as this

could cause the tripod rollers to be pulled from the studs. On 1985 and later models, compress the retaining spring lightly while bending the tabs back with a pair of pliers (see illustration). Be sure to support the housing as the spring pushes it off the tripod.

When removing

the housing from the on the studs

SHAFT

9.11a On later GKN driveaxles, expand the snap-ring that secures the inner end of the tripod and move it back along the axleshaft .

.

tripod, hold the rollers in place

to prevent the rollers

from

place the housing in position so that the three rollers are flush with the retaining tabs (see illustration). Pull the

9

INTERCONNECTING

falling. After

the tripod

housing, secure the rollers

in

is

All

1

Later

and

slide

GKN it

axles:

Remove

Expand the stop

away from the

SHAFT

out of the

place with tape.

except later GKN axles: snap-ring (see illustration).

10

INTERCONNECT**;

and needle bearings

the SCREW

ring

DRIVER

tripod (see illus-

tration). Pry off the circlip (see illustration).

12 Use a brass punch to drive the bearing and tripod assembly off the splined shaft (see illustration). Loosen the boot clamp and remove the boot from the axle. 13 Clean the grease from the tripod assembly. Check for score marks, wear, corrosion and excessive play. Replace any

8 9.11b ... then pry off the circlip with a screwdriver or worn components. Inspect the inner splined area of the bearing tripod for

damaged wear

9.12 Secure the bearings with tape and drive the tripod off the shaft with a brass

punch and hammer

¥3

9.15 Detach the Citroen driveaxle retainer ring with a pair of pliers

and

damage.

Replace

parts

as

necessary.

Remove all old grease from the housing. 14 Inspect the housing splines, ball races, spring, spring cup and the spherical end of the shaft for wear, damage, nicks and corrosion. Replace parts as necessary. 15 On some driveaxles. such as the Citroen assembly, place the housing in a vise and remove the retainer nng with a pair of pliers (see illustration)

7

8-10

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles MALLET SLINGER COLLAR FLUSH WITH SLINGER JOURNAL

RUBBER WASHER SEAL

PIPE liD.

NOTE DIRECTION OF SLINGER COLLAR

38.1mm(l-VilN..

O.D.44.45mm(l-%| N .)

MINIMUM LENGTH

SEAL

3 IN.

RETAINING

GROOVE

SLINGER

9.16b Proper installation of the right inner slinger on 1984 turbo models

9.16c On 1984 turbo models, install the rubber seal washer over the splines and into the retaining groove

INNER RIGHT C/V JOINT CHAMFERED

16

On 1984

slinger

on the

SIDE

CHAMFERED END

9.16a 1984 turbo models use a slinger collar on the right inner CV joint

turbo models, install a new housing (see illus-

right inner

NON-CHAMFERED END

trations). Install the new boot on the axle. 18 On ACI and early GKN driveaxles, slide the tripod onto the shaft with the nonchamfered end facing out (next to the snapring groove) (see illustration). On later GKN driveaxles, slide the stop 19 ring into its groove on the driveaxle. Install 1

the tripod with

its

toward the stop install

the

circlip.

shaft by hand;

if

internally

TRIPOD RETAINING RING GROOVE

On ACI and early GKN CV joints, the non-chamfered end of the tripod must face out when installed on the

9.18

chamfered side

(see illustration), then Try to pull the tripod off the it comes off, the circlip isn't ring

22

Install

a new snap-ring or

circlip

and make

20 Citroen and SSG driveaxles are equipped with tripods that can be installed with either end out (both sides are

23 On ACI driveaxles, distribute one of the two supplied packets of grease in the boot and the remaining packet in the housing. On

Be sure

to install the wire ring

sliding the tripod

onto the shaft (see

illus-

21

If

necessary, use a section of pipe or a

socket and

it's

hammer

onto the shaft

until

it

to carefully tap the tripod just clears the snap-ring

groove.

seated

in

the groove.

Citroen driveaxles, distribute two-thirds of the grease

in

the packet on the boot and the

remaining amount

GKN

tration).

The chamfer must face

GKN

sure

tripod retainer on the driveaxle shaft before

9.19

driveaxle splines

properly seated.

the same).

TRIPOD ASSEMBLY

in

the housing.

driveaxles, distribute

two

On

early

of the three or

four packets of grease supplied with the

the boot and the remaining packet(s)

housing.

On

later

GKN

and

all

kit in

in

the

SSG

driveaxles, distribute half the supplied grease in

the boot and the other half

in

the housing.

Make sure

the grease is applied to the bearing grooves in the housing.

SPRING CUP

in

on

later

driveaxles

24 Position the spring in the housing spring pocket with the cup attached to the exposed end of the spring (see illustration). Apply a small amount of grease to the concave surface of the spring cup.

25

On

into the

early

GKN

driveaxles, slip the tripod

housing and bend the retaining ring

tabs down to,their original positions. Make sure the tabs retain the tripod in the housing. On later GKN driveaxles, secure the shaft in a vise and position the housing over the rollers. Hold the housing at an angle and push it down over each of the tripod rollers in turn so the rollers lock into the housing. Make sure the rollers are locked into the housing. 26 On Citroen driveaxles, slide the housing over the tripod until it bottoms (see illustration). Install a new retainer ring by rolling the edge into the machined groove in the housing with a hammer and punch (see illustration). If the retainer ring won't stay in place during this step, hold it with two C-clamps (see illustration). Check the ability of the retainer ring to hold the tripod in the housing.

27

On 1984 model ACI

driveaxles, align the

tripod rollers with the retaining tabs

9.20 Citroen and SSG driveaxles are equipped with tripods that can be installed either way - make sure you tape the bearings as shown to prevent them from falling off during reassembly

the inner CV joint, sure the spring is seated securely in the spring pocket and the spring cup is installed in the outer end

9.24

make

When assembling

and

housing tracks and snap one roller at a time through the retaining tabs (see illustration). Make sure the retaining tab holds the tripod securely in the housing. On 1985 and later ACI driveaxles, slip the tripod into the housing but don't bend the retaining tabs

(see

illustration)

back to

their

original

I

8-11

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles HAMM£R

OUU PUNCH

9.26a Make sure the bearing grooves in the housing have been greased, then slide the housing over the tripod until it

9.26b The new retainer ring should be staked in place with a hammer and punch

use C-clamps to steady

BOOT RETAINING COUARv

TRIPOD RETAINING TABS

TRIPOD RETAINING TABSi

On 1984 model ACI

each

roller into place,

snap

driveaxles,

one

at a

time

positions. Reattach the boot instead, which will

hold the housing on the shaft.

driveaxle

the tripod

28

is

On SSG

driveaxles, install the tripod it

retainer should hold

Make

centered

sure

the

off;

is

installed

the

on.

retention

spring

the housing spring pocket

in

the tripod

it

in

with the wire

Try to pull the housing

retainer.

the

on the vehicle, make sure re-engaged in the housing.

the housing and secure

29

When

reinstalled

is

and seated

in

is

when

the spring

cup.

30

Section

32

Wipe the grease out hammer to drive

soft-face

CV joint

Refer to illustrations 9.32a, 9.32b, 9.32c, 9.36, 9.37, 9.38, 9.39, 9.42, 9.44, 9.45,

and 9.50 Remove the boot clamps and push the

9.46a, 9.46b, 9.46c, 9.46d

of the joint.

this is

done

Use a

the housing off the

axle (see illustrations). Support the

CV joint as

and rap the housing sharply on the

outer edge to dislodge

it

from the internal

on the shaft. On SSG driveaxles equipped with a damper weight), a single circlip located in a groove on the cross circlip installed

(axleshaft

locks to the axleshaft (see illustration). To remove this type, mark the position of the damper weight, loosen the damper weight it

inner joint, pliers

10).

Outer

31

9.27b On 1985 and later ACI driveaxles, press the housing onto the tripod - but don't try to bend the retaining tabs back to their original positions

bolts, slide the

the boot and retaining clamp (see

Install

it

bottoms

BOOT RETAINING COUAR x

9.27a

9.26c If the retainer ring is difficult to hold in place while staking it into the groove,

and

weight and the boot toward the

remove the

circlip with

snap-ring

slide the inner joint off the axle.

33

Slide the boot off the driveaxle.

joint

was operating

If

the

CV

properly and the grease

doesn't appear to be contaminated, just replace the boot (see Section 10). Skip the following disassembly procedure. If the CV

9.32a On ACI and GKN driveaxles, give the outer CV joint housing a sharp tap with a soft-face hammer to disengage it from the internal circlip installed in a groove on the outer end of the axleshaft noisy or the grease was contamiproceed with the disassembly procedure to determine if it should be

joint

was

nated,

replaced with a

new

one.

34 Remove the circlip from the driveaxle groove and discard it (the rebuild kit will include a new circlip). GKN and ACI driveaxles are equipped with a large spacer ring, which must not be removed unless the is being replaced with a new one. Clean the axle spline area and check the splines for wear, damage and conosion. 36 Clean the outer CV joint bearing assembly with a clean cloth to remove

driveaxle

35

excess grease. Mark the

relative position of

the bearing cage, cross and housing (see illustration).

boot back. CIRCLIP

RETAINER

9.32b

.

.

.

and remove the outer CV from the housing

joint

9.32c On SSG driveaxles, a single circlip located in a groove in the cross locks it to the axleshaft

9.36 After removing the grease,

mark the

bearing cage, cross and housing to ensure that they're reinstalled in the same relationship to one another

8

8-12

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles

BALL RACE

at a time

Tilt the cross and cage 90-degrees, then align the windows in the cage with the lands and rotate the cross up and out of the housing

the wear sleeve (on models so equipped) requires replacement, pry it off the housing with a large screwdriver

The bearing cross will slide into the cage by aligning one of the lands with the elongated window in the cage

9.38

9.37 With the cage and cross tilted like this, remove the ball bearings one

9.42

37

If

Grip the housing shaft securely

wood

blocks

in

the vise. Push

in

down one

the side

cage and remove the ball bearing from the opposite side. Repeat the procedure in a of the

criss-cross pattern

until all of

the balls are

removed (see illustration). If the joint is tight, tap on the cross (not the cage) with a hammer and brass punch. 38 Remove the bearing cage assembly from the housing by tilting it vertically and aligning two opposing elongated cage windows in the area between the ball grooves (see illustration).

39 Turn the cross 90-degrees to the cage and align one of the spherical lands with an elongated cage window. Raise the land into JOINT HOUSING

9.44

window and swivel the cross out of the cage (see illustration). 40 Clean all of the parts with solvent and dry them with compressed air (if available). 41 Inspect the housing, splines, balls and races for damage, corrosion, wear and cracks. Check the cross for wear and scoring in the races. If any of the components are not serviceable, the entire CV joint assembly must be replaced with a new one. 42 Check the outer housing wear sleeve for damage and distortion. If it's damaged or worn, pry the sleeve off the housing (see illustration) and replace it with a new one. A the

special tool

is

available for installing the

new

sleeve, but a large section of pipe slightly CROSS LANDS FEES THROUGH ELONGATED WINDOWS -CITROEN

BOOT RETAINING GROOVE-A.C.I.

9.39 Turn the cross 90-degrees, align the race lands with the cage windows and rotate the race out of the cage

9.45

Lower the cage and cross assembly housing with the elongated window aligned with the race

into the

in

sleeve

will

nick or

gouge the

elongated window (see illustration). 45 Rotate the cross into position

"

OUT

WEAR

in

the

the

CV joint

housing, again using the elongated

window

cage and

install

the assembly

in

for clearance (see illustration).

Rotate the cage into position in the housing. On GKN and ACI driveaxles, the large counterbore of the cross must face out (see illustration). On Citroen driveaxles, the cage and cross chamfers must face out (see

46

illustration).

On SSG

the cross

will

driveaxles, the internal

be facing out from the

housing (see illustration). On all driveaxles, make sure the marks made during disas-

CROSS- LARGE COUNTERBORE

WEAR

seal mating surface).

Apply a thin coat of oitto all CV joint components before beginning reassembly. 44 Align the marks and install the cross in the cage so one of the lands fits into the 43

circlip in JOINT HOUSING

diameter than the outer edge of the work if care is exercised (don't

smaller

CAGE CHAMFERED SIDE OUT

CIRCLIP

RETAINER

SLEEVE

SLEEVE

CROSS-SMALL COUNTERBORE INWARD

CROSS-SMALL

COUNTERBORE INWARD

BOOT RETAINING SHOULDER-G.K.N.

9.46a On GKN and ACI CV joints, make sure the large counterbore faces out when the joint is reassembled

BOOT RETAINING GROOVE

9.46b On Citroen driveaxles, make sure the cross and cage chamfers face OUT when the CV joint is reassembled

9.46c

On SSG

driveaxles,

make

sure the

internal circlip in the cross is facing out

from the housing

1

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles sembly face out and are aligned (see

8-13

illus-

tration).

Pack the lubricant from the

47 ball

kit

into the

races and grooves.

48 Install the balls into the elongated holes, one at a time, until they're all in position. 49 Place the driveaxle in the vise and slide the boot over it. On all except SSG driveaxles, install a new circlip in the axle groove, taking care not to twist it. SSG driveaxles have a reusable retainer integral with the driver assembly. 50 Place the CV joint housing in position on the axle, align the splines and rap it sharply with a soft-face hammer (see illustration). Make sure it's seated on the circlip by attempting to pull it off the shaft. 51 Install the boot (see Section 10). 52 Install the driveaxle (see Section 7).

Constant velocity (CV) - replacement

10

joint

9.46d Make sure the marks are aligned properly and that the bearing cross is installed with the correct side out (see

9.50 Strike the end of the housing shaft with a soft-face hammer to engage it with the shaft circlip

text for details)

boots

Note: If the instructions supplied with the replacement boot kit differ from the instructions here,

boots.

A

follow the ones with the

special

parts stores,

is

tool,

available at

required to

install

new

most auto

supplied boot clamps. Do-it-yourself kits which offer greatly simplified installation may be available for your vehicle. Consult an auto parts store or dealer parts department for more information on these kits. 1 If the boot is cut, torn or leaking, it must be replaced and the CV joint inspected as soon as possible. Even a small amount of dirt in the joint can cause premature wear and failure. Obtain a replacement boot kit before beginning this procedure. There are several different types of boots, each with its own replacement procedure. Compare the boots on your vehicle to the following illustrations to determine which procedure to follow.

Remove

2

the driveaxle (see Section

Disassemble the

3

the boot as described

Inspect the

4

CV

CV in

joint

Section

installation details

little lubricant. If you have any doubts about the condition of the joint components, perform the inspection proce-

with too

(GKN and ACI)

9.

9

aligned with the

6

Pack the

interior of the

new boot

with

the remaining grease. 7

Install

Soft rubber boots Earlier

boots (except Citroen) illustrations 10.9, 10.

1 1

and

10.

12

Earlier boots are usually equipped with 8 metal ladder-type clamps. Two other types of

clamps

-

a small

shaft. Slide the small

shaft

and

rubber clamp at the

axleshaft end of the inner

CV

joint or

a large

some

end

clamp over the

boot over the as follows: On nght inner the small end of the boot lip must be

and

all

boot

the boot and clamps as follows.

are also used on

Slide the small rubber

joints,

kit.

-

models.

the

7).

and remove

spring-type clamp

dures described in Section 9. 5 Clean the old grease out of the CV joint and repack it with the grease supplied with

Refer to

determine if it's been damaged by contamination or running joint to

CV joint boot

10.9

the factory-

position

of the

it

mark on the

shaft.

On

left

inner

outer joints, position the small end of the

the groove in the shaft (see illustration) Place the rubber clamp in the boot groove (if so equipped) or install the metal clamp. 1 Make sure the boot is properly located on the shaft, then locate the metal clamp tangs in the slots, making the clamp as tight as possible by hand (see illustration) 12 Squeeze the clamp bridge with a special in

10

tool or

its

equivalent to complete the tight-

ening procedure (see illustration)

Do

not

CLAMP

8

ALTERNATE (RUBBER)

CLAMP

***»

SlEFVl

HOUSING

10.11 -

Installing a ladder-type boot clamp by hand (GKN driveaxles) note the rubber clamp installed the small end of the boot

10.12 Squeeze the ladder-type boot clamp bridge with the special tool as shown

.

.

4 8-14

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles

TOOL

10.18

Wrap the clamp around the boot twice,

10.19 Pass the strap around the buckle and fold it back about 1-1/8 inch on the inside of the buckle

leaving about 2-1/2 inches of extra

material, then cut off the

excess

the groove (see illustration 10.9). Note: Clamping procedures are identical for attaching the boot to the shaft and the CV joint housing.

18 Wrap the clamping strap around the boot twice, plus 2-1/2 inches, and cut it off (see illustration).

19 Pass the end of the strap through the buckle opening and fold it back about 1-1/8 inch on the inside of the buckle (see illustration).

20 10.21a

Install

bend

it

the strap on the boot and

back so

can't

it

10.21b Attach the tool about 1/2-inch from the buckle

unwind

.

»

Position the clamping strap around the

boot, on the clamping surface, with the eye of

the buckle facing you.

Wrap

.

the boot once and pass cut through the

clamp bridge or damage the

rubber boot. 13 Reassemble the

components

CV joints and

(see Section

driveaxle

9).

then wrap

Locate the large end of the boot over the shoulder or in the groove in the housing (make sure the boot isn't twisted). 15 Install the spring-type clamp or laddertype clamp. If a ladder-type clamp is used, repeat the tightening procedure described above in Steps 1 1 and 12. 14

Citroen and later GKN, SSG and ACI driveaxles (except SSG right

Slide the small

or

to

then push the tool forward and up engage the tool hook in the buckle eye .

.

.

groove (see illustration 10.9). 17 Place the large diameter of the boot

in

and

align

10.23a Close the tool handles slowly to tighten the clamp strap .

.

it

with the locating

10.23b

it

through the buckle again. 21 Fold the strap back slightly to prevent it from unwinding itself (see illustration), then use a special tool or its equivalent and place the strap in the narrow slot, aoout 1/2-inch

from the buckle (see illustration). 22 Hold the strap with one hand and push the tool forward and up slightly, then fit the tool hook into the buckle eye (see illus-

tool

of the boot over the

mark

shaft

10.22

and 10.23b

end

around a second time and pass

23 Tighten the strap by closing the tool handles (see illustration), then rotate the

illustrations 10.18, 10.19, 10.21a,

10.21b, 10.22, 10.23a

16

the strap around through the buckle,

tration).

inner joint) Refer to

it

it

down

slowly while releasing the pressure

on the handles (see illustration). Allow the handles to open progressively, then open the tool all the way and slide it sideways off the strap. Caution: Never fold the strap back or

then rotate the tool down while releasing the pressure on the handles (allow the handles to open)

.

8-15

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles MNHCV POSITION

ON

XXNT HOUSING

FLAT

BETWEEN LOCATING SHOULDERS

lOWPROHf CLAMP

MCtCV JONTSCOT

CLAMPS 10.28 Position the

edge

on the

of the boot

secure

rotate the tool

down

handles together

(if

it

while squeezing the

this is

done, the strap

flat

between the locating shoulders, then

as shown

will

31

the

Install

and position

its

made

using special tools

24 If the strap isn't tight enough, repeat the procedure. Always engage the tool about 1/2-inch from the buckle. Make sure the strap moves smoothly as tightening force is applied and don't allow the buckle to fold over as the strap passes through it. 25 When the strap is tight, cut it off 1/8-inch above the buckle and fold it back neatly. It must not overlap the edge of the

equivalents. Automatic and manual trans-

buckle.

Repeat the procedure

for the

remaining

if

you're using

illustrations).

Hard plastic boots (SSG left inner and both outer CV joints) Refer to illustrations 10.33 and 10.35

32

clamp

Slip the

for the small

end

of the

boot onto the driveaxle shaft. 33 Slip the boot onto the shaft and position its lip in

boot clamps.

.

for the job or their

axles require different tools,

them (see

.

large end of the boot clamp. Tighten the clamp

break).

26

10.31a Install the large clamp

with the clamp

the third locating groove, nearest the

center of the driveaxle shaft (see illus-

SSG

right inner

Refer to

CV joint

illustrations 10.28,

only 10.31a and

27

Slip the

clamp

for the small

end

Center the clamp over the end of the

34

10.31b of the boot

boot (see illustration 10.33). 35 Install a clamp crimping tool on the

onto the driveaxle shaft.

clamp bridge (see

28 Slip the boot onto the shaft and position on the flat between the locating shoulders

tool until

it

(see illustration).

29

Slip the small

crimp

30

it

clamp over the boot and

CV

with a special tool or equivalent.

Install

the

CV

joint

(see Section

36 37 38

then place the prongs of the in the holes in the clamp and compress the tool until the two

10.31b

tration).

.

.

.

special tool

ends meet

illustration). Tighten the jaws touch each other. Release the crimping tool. its

Install

the

CV joint

(see Section

9).

Place the large end of the boot over the joint housing. Install and secure the clamp

(see Steps 27 through 29).

9).

,BOOT

CLAMP

8

BRIDGE

Of CLAMP

10.35 Because the clamps used with hard LIP IN

10.33 Position the

THIRD

GROOVE

of the boot in the third groove on the axleshaft

lip

plastic boots must generate approximately 100 times the clamping force of those used with rubber boots, this special tool or its equivalent is

necessary to crimp the clamps securely

8-16

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles

Notes

1

9-1

Chapter 9

Brakes

Contents Section

Section 12 System (ABS) general information See Chapter 1 Brake check See Chapter 1 Brake fluid level check 1 Brake hoses and lines - inspection and replacement 13 Brake hydraulic system - bleeding 18 Brake light switch - check and replacement 4 Front and rear brake disc - inspection, removal and installation... 3 Front disc brake caliper - removal, overhaul and installation 2 Front disc brake pads replacement 1 General information 10 Master cylinder - removal and installation Anti-lock Brake

-

adjustment - removal and installation Parking brake shoes (rear disc brake models) - removal

14 15

and installation Power brake booster

16 17

Parking brake

-

Parking brake cables

-

check, removal and installation

brake shoes (1982 models) - replacement 7 brake shoes (1983 and later models) - replacement 8 disc brake caliper - removal, overhaul and installation 6 disc brake pads - replacement 5 wheel bearing check, repack and adjustment See Chapter 1 Wheel cylinder - removal, overhaul and installation 9

Rear Rear Rear Rear Rear

Specifications

Brake

fluid

type

See Chapter

1

Disc brakes Brake pad wear

Minimum

See Chapter 1 See specs cast

limit

disc thickness

Disc runout (maximum) Disc thickness (parallelism) variation

into disc

0.004 inch limit

0.0005 Inch

Drum brakes Brake shoe wear

limit

See Chapter

1

Drum Standard diameter 1982 and 1983 Standard Heavy duty 1984 on Maximum diameter Runout (maximum) Out-of-round (maximum) In 30-degrees In 360-degrees Parking brake adjustment diameter

Torque specifications Master cylinder-to-booster (or firewall) nuts Power brake booster-to-firewall nuts Caliper guide pin(s)

ATE All

7.87 inches

8.66 inches 8.66 inches

See specs cast

drum

0.0025 inch 0.0035 inch 6-3/4 inches Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated) 1

7 to 25

17 to 25 18 to 26

others

1984 through 1991 1992 on Caliper mounting bracket-to-steering knuckle bolts 1982 and 1983 1984 through 1991 1992 on Brake hose-to-caliper inlet fitting bolt 1984 through 1991 1992 on Wheel cylinder-to-brake backing plate bolts

into

0.006 inch

25 30

to

35

70 to 100 130 to 190 160 19 to 29

35 75

in-lbs

9

.

9-2

Brakes

Chapter 9

BRAKING

General information All

DISC

models are equipped with hydrauli-

operated disc front brakes. Rear drum brakes are standard on all models. Rear disc brakes are optional on later models. The front brakes use a single-piston, floating-caliper design. Three types of caliper, all manufactured by Kelsey-Hayes, are used: single-pin, double-pin family and double-pin non-family. Warning: The calipers differ in design, so parts are not interchangeable. Using parts from the wrong design could lead to complete brake failure. cally

1

The single-pin

caliper,

used on

attached to the steering knuckle. The doublepin family caliper is secured by two steel pins

which

in

2.2a To get at the pads, remove the guide pins (arrows) (double-pin family shown;

some

early

models, floats on a single steel pin that threads into an adapter. The adapter is

that thread into an adapter,

CALIPER

turn

is

attached to the steering knuckle. The doublepin non-family caliper is attached directly to the steering knuckle by two steel pins. rear drum brakes are The a

automatic design with adjustment. The brakes may be manufactured by Kelsey-Hayes or Varga. Service procedures for both designs are nearly identical; leading/trailing

calipers have only a single

lower

pin)

.

On

drum

brakes, the parking brake expands the brake

shoes. On rear disc brake models, the parking brake uses a separate set of drum brakes,

mounted

inside

drums

integral with

the rear brake discs.

The

optional rear disc brakes use single-

Warning: There are two

changeable between the two sizes or between front and rear disc brakes. Using the wrong parts could cause complete brake failure. Front-wheel drive vehicles tend to wear the front brake pads at a faster rate than reardrive vehicles. Consequently, it's very important to inspect the brake pads frequently

make sure they haven't worn to the point where the disc itself is scored or damaged. Note that the pad thickness limit on these models includes the metal portion of the brake

to

lining material (see

Chapter

1).

The hydraulic system consists of two separate circuits. The master cylinder has a separate section in

in

2

Front disc brake pads

-

circuit,

the other circuit

Some

later

will

in

When

servicing the disc brakes, use

high-quality, nationally-recognized,

If

or clean brake fluid only! OUTBOARD SHOE ASSEMBLY

Single-pin

knuckle or to attached directly

to the steering

the caliper

attached to an adapter,

Warning: Disc brake pads must be replaced on both front wheels at the same time never replace the pads on only one wheel. Also, the dust created by the brake system may contain asbestos, which is harmful to your health. Never blow it out with compressed air and don't inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. Do not, under any circumstances, use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts. Use brake system cleaner

name-

brand parts. 1 Raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Block the rear wheels and apply the parking brake, then remove the front wheels. Note: The pad replacement procedure varies, depending on which design you have. Count the caliper mounting pins. If it has one pin, it's a singlepin caliper; if it has two, note whether it's

to the knuckle, it's a

replacement

the reservoir for each circuit

the event of a leak or failure

Note:

if

an adapter.

sizes of rear disc brakes. Parts are not inter-

pad, not just the

.

attached directly

differences are pointed out as*they occur.

pin floating calipers.

.

necessary) - note the anti-rattle clip at the top of the caliper

.

vehicles with rear

.

bracket

have a load sensing dual proportioning valve which modulates the rear brake pressure, depending on vehicle load. All models are equipped with a cableactuated parking brake, which operates the rear brakes.

and pivot the caliper up off the mounting bracket (pry it loose from the

2.2b

is

non- family caliper; it's

a family

if

caliper.

and double-pin

family caliper Refer to illustrations 2.2a, 2.2b, 2.4b and 2.6

2.3, 2.4a,

Remove

the caliper guide pin(s) (see swing up the lower end of the caliper and pull it off the caliper mounting 2

illustration),

bracket (see illustration). Support the caliper out of the way with a 3 wire hanger (see illustration). Warning: Don't allow the caliper to hang by the brake hose! 4 Detach the outer brake pad from the caliper

mounting bracket (see

illustrations).

one hydraulic

remain operative.

models have an Anti-lock

system (ABS) that aids vehicle heavy braking or on wet or uneven road surfaces. All non-ABS models Braking

stability during

BRAKING DISC

2.4a To remove the outer pad from a single-pin or early double-pin family caliper, simply pull it straight off - then

remove the 2.3

Hang the

piece of wire

caliper out of the -

DO NOT let brake hose!

W^M

it

way on

a hang by the

anti-rattle spring clip at the

bottom of the pad and transfer new outer pad

it

to the

2.4b To remove the outer pad from a later double-pin family caliper, disengage the

upper end of the brake backing plate from the anti-rattle spring and remove the pad after you remove the inner pad, the antirattle spring (arrow) will fall out of the caliper mounting bracket, so note how it's installed BEFORE you remove the inner pad

1

9-3

Brakes

Chapter 9 ANTI-RATHE CUP

GUIDE PIN BOLT

BLEEDER SCREW

BRAKING DISC

CALIPER ASSEMBLY

2.6 Slide the inner

pad

off

BRAKE SHO€

the mounting

/

early double-

on single-pin and pin family calipers, remove the anti-rattle clip from the top of the pad and transfer it to the new pad bracket

-

you're replacing the pads on a single-pin or early double-pin caliper, remove the antiIf

spring from the bottom of the

rattle install

it

on the new outer pad.

Remove

5 6

pad and

the brake disc (see Section

Detach the inner brake pad (see

illus-

If

on the new inner pads on a later the replacing you're

the inner

pad and

install

it

pad. If double-pin caliper, note how the anti-rattle spring clip is installed on the caliper mounting bracket, in case it falls off before you install the

new pads.

Inspect the caliper and caliper mounting bracket for wear, damage, rust and evidence of fluid leaks. If the caliper-to-bracket mating 7

surfaces are rusty, clean them thoroughly with a wire brush (the caliper must be able to move freely when the brakes are applied). Also inspect the brake disc (see Section 4). Siphon some brake fluid from the master 8 or

rags newspapers underneath the reservoir to catch the overflow that will occur when the piston is cylinder

reservoir,

or

place

pushed back to make room for the new pads. Then use a piece of wood to carefully push the piston into the caliper bore far enough to provide clearance for the

Apply a

9

thin film of

new pads. Mopar Multipurpose

Lubricant or high-temperature brake grease pad and caliper

4).

you're replacing the pads on a single-pin caliper or early double-pin caliper, remove the anti-rattle spring from the top of

tration).

2.18 Kelsey-Hayes non-family mounting details

several stops to wear off any foreign pads and seat them on the

make

material on the

to the adapter-to-brake

disc.

mating surfaces. Caution: Don'f get any grease on the pad lining material, gasket

Double-pin non-family caliper

surface or brake disc. 10 Remove the protective paper from the

noise suppression gasket on both pads. Install the inner brake pad, making sure the anti-rattle spring is secure.

the brake disc (see Section 4). Place the outer pad in position in the caliper mounting bracket. Make sure the antiInstall

1

12

is secure. caliper into position over the the Slide 13 On single-pin or early assembly. pad and disc double-pin types, be sure the anti-rattle clip

spring

rattle

is

engaged

14

Install

the

guide

pin(s)

and

in this

tighten

Chapter's

Specifications. Don't cross-thread the guide pin(s)

15

during installation.

Repeat Steps 2 through 14

for the other

caliper.

the wheel, tighten the wheel lug nuts to half the torque listed in the Chapter 1 Specifications and lower the vehicle. Tighten the lug nuts to the torque listed in the Install

Chapter

1

Refer to

illustrations 2. 18, 2. 19, 2.20, 2.21,

2.26a and 2.26b

18

Remove

the caliper guide pin bolts (see

illustration)

Pivot the bottom of the caliper away 19 from the brake disc and lift it off (see illustration), together with the brake pads.

Warning: Once the caliper is off, don't let it hang by the brake hose! Support it by hand while removing the pads, then hang it from the vehicle with wire (see illustration 2.3) 20 Pry the outer pad away from the caliper

(see illustration).

correctly.

it/them to the torque listed

16

MACHINED ABUTMENT

Pump the brake pedal several times to 17 bring the pads into contact with the disc. Check the brake fluid level (see Chapter 1). Drive the vehicle in an isolated area and

Specifications.

21

Remove the

away from the 22

inner

pad by

pulling

it

straight

piston (see illustration)

Inspect the caliper and caliper mounting

bracket for wear, damage, rust and evidence of fluid leaks. If the caliper-to-bracket mating surfaces are rusty, clean them thoroughly with a wire brush (the caliper must be able to

when

the brakes are applied). Also inspect the brake disc (see Section 4). 23 Siphon some brake fluid from the

move

freely

master cylinder reservoir, or place rags or

9

OUTBOARD SHOE ASSEMBLY

2.19

Work

the hold-down spring out from

under the machined abutment and remove the caliper together with the pads

2.20 Pry the outer

pad loose from the

caliper with a screwdriver

2.21 To disengage the retainer spring (on the back of the inner pad) from the piston, pull the inner pad straight out

9-4

Chapter 9 Brakes

INBOARD SHOE ASSEMBLY (RIGHT

AND

LEFT

COMMON)

3.2 Place CALIPER

OUTBOARD SHOE ASSEMBLY (RIGHT SIDE SHOWN) 2.26a Inner pads on non-family calipers are interchangeable; outer pads must be installed on the proper side of the vehicle - the pads are marked to indicate the correct side

engage the pad

will

to

is

pushed back

to

new pads. Then use

pads.

24

Apply a

thin film of

Mopar Multipurpose

Lubricant or high-temperature brake grease

pad and caliper mating surfaces. Caution: Don'f get any grease on the pad lining material, gasket to the adapter-to-brake

surface or brake disc.

25

Install

the inner pad by pressing the

26

Select the correct outer pad for the side

of the vehicle you're working to the identification

Remove

on by

marks (see

referring

illustration).

the protective paper from the noise

suppression gasket and install the pad on the caliper (see illustration). 27 Install the caliper on the steering knuckle and position the hold-down spring under the steering knuckle abutment (see illustration 2.19). Caution: Don't damage the steering knuckle bushing seals when you install

Repeat Steps 18 through 27

for the

Perform Steps 16 and 17 to complete

the installation.

3

Front disc brake caliper removal, overhaul and installation

Warning: Dust created by the brake system may contain asbestos, which is harmful to your health. Never blow it out with compressed air and don't inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. Do not, under any petroleum-based circumstances, use solvents to clean brake parts. Use brake Note:

If

is

indicated (usually

fluid leakage),

all

options

New and

factory

explore

on an exchange basis, which makes this job quite easy. If you decide to rebuild the calipers, make sure a rebuilt calipers are available

rebuild

kit is

available before proceeding.

Always rebuild the calipers rebuild just one of them.

in pairs

-

never

illustration

3.2

and the

access to other components. If you're removing the caliper for overhaul, remove the brake hose inlet fitting bolt and detach the hose (see illustration). Have a rag handy to catch spilled fluid and wrap a plastic bag tightly around the end of the hose to prevent fluid loss and contamination. Remove the caliper guide pin(s) and 3 detach the caliper from the vehicle (see Section

2).

Overhaul Refer to

illustrations 3.6, 3.

7,

3.8, 3.9a, 3.9b,

4

and 3.15 Remove the brake pads (see Section

5

Clean the exterior of the caliper with brake

3.9c, 3.9d, 3.9e, 3. 14

2).

new brake fluid. Never use gasoline, kerosene or petroleum-based cleaning solvents.

Place the caliper on a clean workbench. Position a wooden block or several shop 6 rags in the caliper as a cushion, then use compressed air to remove the piston from the caliper (see illustration). Use only

enough

air

the bore.

If

pressure to ease the piston out of the piston in

is

place,

blown

it

out,

even with

may be damaged.

when applying compressed

Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on

caliper

the brake hose from

you're only removing the caliper

Warning: Never place your fingers in front of the piston in an attempt to catch or protect it

1

3.6 Place a piece of

't

the cushion

Removal

jackstands.

Don remove if

cleaner or

fluid only!

before beginning the job.

Refer to

the caliper.

an overhaul

because of

the caliper to gain

other caliper.

cleaner or clean brake

retainer into the piston recess.

Note:

2

28

or newspapers

body

occur when the

make room for the a piece of wood to carefully push the piston into the caliper bore far enough to provide clearance for the new piston

the caliper and

retainer spring with the

caliper

29

newspapers underneath the reservoir catch the overflow that

Work the pad onto

2.26b

some shop rags

under the brake hose inlet fitting bore, then plug it to prevent contamination right after you disconnect it

Remove the front

wheels.

could

air serious injury

result!

Carefully pry the dust boot out of the

7

caliper bore (see illustration).

wood between the

piston, then force the

piston out of the caliper bore with

compressed air - be sure to keep your hands and fingers out of the way during this

procedure

3.7

Use a screwdriver to pry the dust boot out of the cylinder bore

piston seal with a wood pencil or a plastic eating utensil so you don't damage the bore and seal groove

3.8

Remove the

Chapter 9

9-5

Brakes PIN

BOOT

HOLD DOWN

BUSHING

SEAL

RETAINER

ADAPTER

CALIPER PIN

3.9a

An exploded view

of a typical early

Kelsey-Hayes disc brake caliper assembly

OUTBOARD

Using a wood or plastic tool, remove the 8 piston seal from the groove in the caliper bore (see illustration). Metal tools may

INBOARD SHOE ASSEMBLY

SHOE ASSEMBLY

AOAPTER

damage the bore. 9 Remove the

caliper bleeder screw. On double-pin calipers, remove the bushing sleeves. Remove and discard the caliper (guide) pin bushing(s) from the caliper ears. Discard all rubber parts (see illustrations). 10 Clean the remaining parts with brake system cleaner or new brake fluid then blow

(fin.

them dry with compressed air. 11 Carefully examine the piston for nicks, burrs and excessive wear. If surface defects are present, the parts must be replaced. 12 Check the caliper bore in a similar way. Light polishing with crocus cloth sible to

rust

remove

or

light

pitting

/

k".,-.

1 9J

permis-

BOOT

SEM

CALIPER PiN

EG

\

DUST is

,

r

'BUSHING CALIPER

PISTON

corrosion and stains, but will

require

caliper

3.9b

An exploded view

of a typical later (single-pin)

caliper

replacement.

ADAPTER

CALIPER GUIDE PIN BOLT

BUSHING

CALIPER

ATE

or Kelsey-Hayes

assembly

DUST SEAL

PISTON SEAL

9 PISTON

WEAR BUSHING

INDICATOR

L I

.BRAKE

SHOE CALIPER GUIDE PIN BOLT

BRAKE SHOE

ANTI RATTLE CLIP

3.9c

An exploded view

of a typical

Kelsey-Hayes double-pin family caliper assembly separate anti-rattle clips)

(late

design shown; earlier models use three

5 6

Brakes

Chapter 9

9-6 PISTON

SHOE ASSEMBLY

SHOE ASSEMBLY (OUTBOARD)

CAP

BLEEDER

SLEEVE

BOLT

BUSHING

SCREW

(INBOARD)

BUSHING

BOOT

An exploded view

3.9d

of a typical double-pin

BOLT

SLEEVE

CALIPER

SEAL

Kelsey-Hayes non-family caliper assembly

Grab the ends of the mounting pin bushings with needle-nose pliers and push them through the caliper ears with a twisting motion 3.9e

the bolt to the torque listed

in this

Chapter's

Specifications.

22

If

the

line

was disconnected, be

sure to

bleed the brakes (see Section 1 3). Install the wheels and lower the vehicle.

23

Tighten the lug nuts to the torque listed

in

the

Chapter 1 Specifications. 24 After the job has been completed, firmly depress the brake pedal a few times to bring the pads into contact with the disc.

25

Check brake operation before

the vehicle

4 3.14 sure

When you it

doesn't

push

install

make

bore

in

the caliper

Front and rear brake disc inspection, removal

the correct seal tool isn't available, use a drift punch to tap around the edge until the dust boot is seated

3.15

become cocked as you

into its

it

the piston,

driving

in traffic.

-

and

If

installation

Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the and support it securely on jackstands. Remove the wheel and reinstall the lug nuts 1

When

the caliper, reassembling lubricate the bore and seal with clean brake fluid. Position the seal in the caliper bore groove - make sure it isn't twisted. Lubricate the piston with clean brake 14 fluid, install it squarely in the bore and apply pressure to bottom it in the caliper (see illus-

13

tration).

Stretch the dust boot over the groove

1

the piston, then carefully seat

it

in

in

the caliper

bore (see illustration). 1 Install the bleeder screw. 17

Install

make

new

caliper pin bushings

sure they're centered

double-pin

calipers,

in

install

and

their bores.

the

On

bushing

sleeves and

make

sure the bushings engage

the sealing grooves

in

the sleeves.

Installation

vehicle

to hold the disc

Inspect the caliper guide pin(s) for 18 excessive corrosion. Replace them if necessary.

19 Clean the caliper and caliper mounting bracket contact surfaces with a wire brush, then apply a thin film of high-temperature brake grease to them. 20 Install the brake pads and caliper (see Section 21 bolt,

2).

the brake hose and inlet fitting using new copper washers, then tighten

Install

in

place.

Remove

the brake caliper (see Section 2). It's not necessary to disconnect the brake hose. After removing the caliper guide 2

pin(s),

suspend the

caliper out of the

with a piece of wire. Don't

let

way

the caliper hang

by the hose and don't stretch or twist the hose. On all except double-pin non-family calipers,

remove the outer brake pad.

Inspection Refer to 3

illustrations 4.4a, 4.4b,

4.5a

and 4.5b

Visually inspect the disc surface for

scoring and other damage. Light scratches and shallow grooves are normal after use and may not affect brake operation, but deep score marks over 0.015-inch require disc

removal and refinishing by an automotive machine shop. Be sure to check both sides of the disc. If pulsating has been noticed during application of the brakes, suspect disc runout.

4

To check disc

runout,

mount

a dial

indicator with the stem resting about 1/2-inch

from the outer edge of the disc (see illustration). Set the indicator to zero and turn the disc. The indicator reading should not exceed

Make

sure the lug nuts are in place and evenly tightened, then measure the disc runout with a dial indicator

4.4a

4.4b Using a swirling motion, remove the glaze from the disc surface with sandpaper or emery cloth

maximum allowable runout listed in this Chapter's Specifications. If it does, the disc should be refinished by an automotive

the

Chapter 9

9-7

Brakes

MINIMUM THICKNESS MARKING

4.5b

Measure the disc thickness with a

micrometer its

at several points

4.6a

around

If

retaining

circumference

the discs on your vehicle use

washers

disc thickness less than the

stamped on

in

a

minimum

it

machine shop. Note: Professionals recom-

bring the brake

pads

into contact with the system isn't necessary unless the brake hose was disconnected from the caliper. Check the operation of the

produce a

Rear disc brake pads replacement

smooth, flat surface that will eliminate brake pedal pulsations and other undesirable symptoms related to questionable discs). At discs

if

you elect not to have the deglaze them with

resurfaced,

sandpaper or emery cloth (use a

swirling

motion to ensure a non-directional

finish)

(see illustration). The disc must not be machined to a 5 thickness less than the minimum listed in this Chapter's Specifications. The minimum wear (or discard)

thickness

is

in

traffic.

discs regardless of

the dial indicator reading (to

the very least,

also cast into the

inside of the disc (see illustration).

The disc

thickness can be checked with a micrometer

(see illustration).

Refer to

-

illustrations 5.2, 5.3, 5.4

and 5.5

Warning: Disc brake pads must be replaced on both rear wheels at the same time never replace the pads on only one wheel. Also, the dust created by the brake system may contain asbestos, which is harmful to your health. Never blow it out with compressed air and don't inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. Do not, under any circumstances, use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts. Use brake system cleaner

Removal

Note:

and 4.6b Remove the lug nuts you installed to 6 hold the disc in place during inspection. The discs on some models are equipped with retaining washers to prevent them from illustrations

4.6a

When

servicing the disc brakes, use

high-quality, nationally-recognized,

name-

brand parts. 1 it

4.6b When you remove the disc, make sure you don't damage the threads on the wheel studs

wheels so the vehicle can't roll in either direction, then remove the rear wheels. 2

Remove

3

Lift

tration).

the caliper off the adapter (see illusIt's

not necessary to disconnect the

hose.

After

hang by the hose and don't stretch or

twist the hose.

4

Pry the retaining clip on the outer pad

is removed; if the discs on your vehicle are so equipped, remove the washer with needle-nose pliers

slipping off while the caliper

(see

illustration)

and

discard

it.

removing the caliper

attaching bolts, suspend the caliper out of the way with a piece of wire. Don't let the caliper

Raise the rear of the vehicle and support securely on jackstands. Block the front

the caliper attaching bolts (see

illustration).

brake

or clean brake fluid only!

Refer to

off

disc. Bleeding of the

brakes carefully before driving the vehicle

mend resurfacing of brake

them

discard them

The disc can be resurfaced by an automotive machine shop, provided the 4.5a

machining operation doesn't result

like this, pull

with a pair of needle-nose pliers and

CALIPER-

Slide

the disc off the threaded studs (see illustration).

Installation Place the disc threaded studs. 7

8

Install

Section

2).

in

position over the

the caliper and brake pads (see Tighten the caliper guide pin(s) to

the torque listed

in this

Chapter's Specifica-

tions. Install the wheel and lug nuts, then 9 lower the vehicle to the ground. Tighten the lug nuts to the torque listed in the Chapter 1

Specifications.

10

Depress the brake pedal a few times to

5.2

Remove

the caliper attaching bolts

the caliper away from the disc, together with the pads

5.3 ...

and

lift

9-8 i

Chapter 9

.

to the adapter-to-brake

RETAINING

CALIPER FINGERS

9

Brakes pad and caliper

mating surfaces. Caution: Don'f get any grease on the pad lining material, gasket surface or brake disc.

Push the new inner pad into the piston recess (see illustration 5.5). Slide the new outer pad onto the caliper 9 and make sure the retaining finger locks over the raised area on the caliper (see illus8

INBOARD SHOE

tration 5.4).

10 Position the bottom of the caliper on the adapter (see illustration 5.3). Make sure the

and the lower tabs on the pads are beneath the mounting rail, then pivot the caliper and pads over the disc. 11 Install the caliper attaching bolts and tighten them to the torque listed in this caliper casting projections

5.5 Pull

on the inner pad to disengage retainer from the piston

its

from the master cylinder reservoir, or place rags or newspapers underneath the reservoir to catch the overflow that will occur when the piston is

Chapter's Specifications.

pushed back to make room Then use a piece of wood

Specifications.

over the raised area on the caliper, then slide the pad off the caliper (see illustration).

the piston into the caliper bore far

5 Pull the inner pad away from the piston to disengage its retainer from the piston (see

provide clearance for the 7

illustration).

Lubricant or high-temperature brake grease

RETAINING

5.4 Lift the tab

on the outer pad away

from the raised part of the caliper, then slide the pad off

*

Siphon some brake

6

CLIP

FRONT

Apply a

CYLINDER BOOT

BRAKE CYLINDER RETURN SPRING

(PRESS

FIT)

thin film of

fluid

for the

new

pads.

push enough to

to carefully

new pads. Mopar Multipurpose

RETURN SPRING

12

lug nuts to the torque listed

13

HOLD

DOWN

^SPRING PIN

,

1

into contact with

Check the brake

fluid level (see

Rear disc brake caliper removal, overhaul and

-

installation

These procedures are the same as

III iff

for

the double-pin non-family front caliper (see Section

3).

;

7

TRAILING

SHOE AND LINING

Rear brake shoes (1982 models) replacement

Refer to

PARKING BRAKE CABLE

LEADING SHOE

AND LINING

ANCHOR

SHOE TO ANCHOR

PLATE

(left

and

7.21

Caution: Always replace the brake shoes on both wheels at the same time - never replace just one set. Disassemble one brake at a time so the remaining brake can be used as a guide if difficulties are encountered during reassembly.

SPRING Rear drum brake components

-

illustrations 7.3, 7.4, 7.5, 7.6, 7.7a,

7.7b, 7.8, 7.15, 7.17

7.3

the Chapter

Chapter 1). Drive the vehicle in an isolated area and make several stops to wear off any foreign material on the pads and seat them on the disc.

6

ASSEMBLY,-,

SPRING

in

the brake pedal several times to

pads

the disc.

ADJUSTER SCREWS

DOWN&

Pump

bring the

PARKING BRAKE LEVER

HOLD

the wheel, hand tighten the wheel and lower the vehicle. Tighten the

Install

lug nuts

side shown) (1982 models)

1 Raise the rear of the vehicle, support it securely on jackstands and block the front

Remove the rear wheels. Remove the hub/brake drum assembly

wheels. 2

as described

in

Chapter

1,

Rear wheel

bearing check, repack and adjustment. If the drum won't pull off easily, refer to Section 8,

7.4 Pull the parking brake cable to the

rear to disengage

it

from the lever

7.5 Hold the parking brake cable out of

the

way

while disconnecting the shoe-toanchor springs

Step 2. 3 Use brake system solvent to remove dust and brake fluid from the shoe assembly components (see illustration). Warning: Brake dust contains asbestos, which is harmful to your health. Do not blow it out of the brake shoe assembly with compressed air and do not inhale any of it. Disconnect the parking brake cable 4 from the lever (see illustration). Remove the two lower brake shoe-to5 anchor springs (see illustration).

.

Chapter 9

7.6

Compress the hold-down springs and slide them off the pins

9-9

Brakes

7.7a Use a pair of pliers to hold the adjuster clip out of the way while backing off the adjuster screw, then .

there

(see illustration).

(see illustration 8.16).

Back off the adjuster screw assembly and remove (see illustrations). 8 Rotate the rear shoe forward and remove followed by the leading shoe (see

1 5 Check for rough or rusted shoe contact areas on the backing plate, then lubricate the

illustration).

16 Insert the upper return spring into the backing plate and install the leading shoe. Be sure to seat the ends securely in the wheel cylinder piston and anchor pivot. 17 Install the trailing shoe return spring and then rotate the shoe and parking brake lever

7

it

it,

Check the shoe

9

they indicate

full

linings to

make

sure

contact with the drum.

Check the drum

score marks Measure the inside diameter of the drum and compare it to the size stamped on the drum (see illustration 10

and signs

for cracks,

of overheating.

Minor imperfections in the drum surface can be removed with fine emery paper. Deep score marks can be removed by having the drum turned by an automotive machine shop (as long as the maximum diameter is not exceeded). Check the drum for runout. Replace the brake drum with a new one if it is not usable. 11 Check the brake springs for signs of discolored paint, indicating overheating, and distorted end coils. Replace them with new ones if necessary. 8.13).

12

and

Check the adjuster screw assembly threads

damaged assembly

for

bent,

components. if the screw

corroded Replace

and the

threads are damaged or rusted. Clean the threads and lubricate them with white lithium-based grease.

Check the wheel cylinder boots damage and signs of leakage. 13

for

Rebuild or replace the wheel cylinder is

.

.

.

disengage the adjuster clevis from the front shoe

.

6 Remove the shoe hold down springs by depressing them and sliding them off the pins

14

7.7b

if

any sign of leakage around the boots

contact points with high-temperature grease (see illustration).

assembly

to the rear, into position (see illus-

Seat the shoe ends in the anchor pivot and wheel cylinder. 18 Insert the adjuster screw assembly into the shoe notch, making sure the forward facing clevis of the screw is pointed down. Turn the adjusting star wheel until the screw is secure in the support. 19 Lightly lubricate the hold down springs with high-temperature grease and install tration).

them. 20 Install the shoe-to-anchor springs. 21 Pull the parking brake cable housing spring back to expose the cable and attach

it

to the lever (see illustration).

22'

Install the hub/drum assembly and the wheel. Repeat the procedure for the other wheel.

23 24

Adjust the brakes (Section

6).

Lower the vehicle and check the brake operation very carefully before placing the vehicle into normal service.

7.8 Rotate the rear shoe and parking brake lever assembly forward to remove from the backing plate

Rear brake shoes (1983 and models) • replacement

8

Refer to

it

later

illustrations 8.2a, 8.2b, 8.4a, 8.4b,

8.4c, 8.5, 8.6, 8.7, 8.8a, 8.8b, 8.9a, 8.9b, 8. 10, 8. 1 1, 8. 13, 8. 15, 8. 16, 8. 18, 8. 19,

8.20,

and 8.28 Warning: Drum brake shoes must be replaced on both wheels at the same time never replace the shoes on only one wheel. Also, the dust created by the brake system 8.27,

may

contain asbestos, which

is

harmful to

Never blow it out with compressed air and don inhale any of it. An approved filtehng mask should be worn when working on the brakes. Do not, under any

your

health.

't

9

7.15 Lubricate

all

of the

shoe pivot and

backing plate contact points with hightemperature grease

7.17 Rotate the rear shoe and parking brake lever assembly into position in the wheel cylinder piston

7.21 Pull back the spring cover and attach the end of the cable to the lever

.

9-10

Chapter 9

Brakes BRAKE CYLINDER

AUTOMATIC

BRAKE CYLINDER

AUTOMATIC ADJUSTER

RETURN SPRING

SCREW

ADJUSTER

ASSEMBLY

LEVER

AND SPRING

' |

r

GUIDE BUTTON (EACH SHOE)

HOLD

DOWN

SPRING(S)

PARK BRAKE LEVER PARK BRAKE CABLE

LEADING

AND

LINING

ANCHOR

(HANDED)

SHOE TO SHOE SPRING PLAT?

ANCHOR

8.2a Typical Kelsey-Hayes rear drum brake assembly (left side shown)

use

circumstances,

petroleum-based

solvents to clean brake parts.

Use brake

8.2b Typical Varga rear

securely on jackstands and block the front

Remove the rear wheels. Remove the hub/brake drum assembly

wheels.

cleaner or denatured alcohol only!

2

Caution: Whenever the brake shoes are

Rear wheel bearing check, repack and adjustment). If the drum won't slide off, you'll have to back off the automatic

replaced,

the

and hold-down be replaced. Due to the

retractor

springs should also

.TRAILING SHOE

SHOE

LEADING SHOE

(see Chapter

1

,

Remove

the rubber

continuous heating/cooling cycle that springs to, they lose tr\eir tension over a period of time any may allow the shoes to

then insert a screwdriver through the hole and

drag on the drum and wear at a much faster rate than normal. When replacing the rear brake shoes, use only high quality, nationallyrecognized brand-name parts. 1 Raise the rear of the vehicle, support it

use it to push the adjuster lever off the automatic adjuster (see illustrations). Insert another screwdriver or brake adjusting tool and use it to turn the star wheel on the automatic adjuster screw until the drum will pull off.

are subjected

8.4a On Kelsey-Hayes brakes, use pliers to detach the adjuster lever spring .

adjuster screw, as follows.

plug from the rear of the brake backing plate,

8.4b

.

.

.

and remove the adjuster

lever

PLATE

SHOE-TO-ANCHOR SPRING(S)

drum brake assembly

(left

side shown)

Use brake system cleaner

3

dust and brake

fluid

to

remove

from the shoe assembly

components.

Remove

4

the adjuster lever spring and

adjuster lever (see illustrations).

Back

5

off the adjuster

screw

star

wheel

(see illustration). Qisconnect the parking brake cable with 6 a pair of pliers (see illustration). 7 Remove the hold-down springs by depressing them with a pair of pliers or a special tool and turning the retainer until the slot aligns with the flattened

end

of the pin,

allowing removal (see illustration).

On Varga

brakes, the procedure but the spring location is the same,

8.4c

.

is

slightly different

8.5

Back

off

the adjuster star wheel

8.6

Use needle-nose

pliers to pull the

cable from the parking brake lever

Use a brake hold-down spring tool or pliers to depress the hold-down spring and turn the retainer

8.7

1

.

8.8a Pull the upper ends of the brake shoes away from the wheel cylinder .

.

8.8b

.

.

.

then disengage the lower ends of

.

and use pliers to disengage the upper spring from the shoes .

.

8.9a

Unhook

the lower spring

the shoes from the anchor plate (Kelsey-

Hayes brakes shown; Varga brakes

8.9b

9-11

Brakes

Chapter 9

similar)

8.10 Detach the adjuster from the shoes

8.1

1

Use a small screwdriver to pry the parking brake lever off the post

Disengage the brake shoe assembly 8 from the wheel cylinder at the top and the anchor plate at the bottom and remove it from the backing plate (see illustrations). Place the assembly on a work surface 9 and remove the springs (see illustrations). 10 Separate the shoes from the adjuster

clip with

discolored paint, indicating overheating, and

lever to the

distorted

(see illustration).

will

1

Remove

the parking brake lever retainer

a small screwdriver and transfer the new shoe (see illustration). 12 Check the shoe linings to make sure they indicate full contact with the drum. 13 Check the drum for cracks, score marks

and signs

of overheating.

Measure the

inside

diameter of the drum (most auto parts stores

do this for you) and compare to the size stamped on the drum (see illustration). Minor imperfections in the drum surface can be removed with fine emery paper. Deeper score marks can be removed by having the drum resurfaced by an automotive machine shop (as long as the maximum diameter is it

end

coils.

It's

a

good idea

to

replace them as a matter of course.

15 Check the self-adjuster assembly and threads for bent, corroded and damaged components. Replace the assembly if the screw threads are damaged or rusted. Clean the threads and lubricate them with white lithium-based grease (see illustration). 16 Check the wheel cylinder boots for damage and signs of leakage (see illustration).

17 there

Rebuild or replace the wheel cylinder if is any sign of leakage around the boots

not exceeded). Note: Professionals recom-

(see Section

mend

18 Check for rough or rusted shoe contact areas on the backing plate, then lubricate the contact points with high-temperature grease (see illustration)

resurfacing the

drums whenever

shoes are replaced. It's a good idea replace them as a matter of course. 14

Check the brake springs

the to

for signs of

6).

9

The maximum allowable inside diameter of the drum is stamped on it 8.13

OUTBOARD FORWARD

SELF

ADJUSTER

OUTBOARD REAR

SELF

8.15

ADJUSTER LEVER

An exploded view of the components

adjuster

8.16 Carefully peel back the wheel cylinder boots to check for brake fluid

leakage

The area on the backing plate where the brake shoes contact it must be smooth and lubricated with high-

8.18

temperature grease

9-12

Chapter 9

'

*

A

M^* ..

a

Brakes

4fcs

"Wl

•

XJ

8.19 Assemble the shoes, adjuster and springs prior to installation on the backing plate

Use

8.20

pliers to insert the parking

brake

23 Insert the pins through the backing plate from the rear and hold them in place while installing the hold-down springs and retainers.

24

Install

spring to

25

the adjuster lever and connect the

enough

until

the shoes are

to allow the

drum

to

be

the hub/drum assembly and the

Install

wheel. Repeat the procedure for the other wheel.

27

Remove the rubber

plug from the hole

in

the backing plate (see illustration). Insert a

hole

in

wheel 19

Assemble the shoes over the adjuster

and connect the return springs (see

illus-

29

20 Place the assembly in position on the backing plate and insert the parking brake

30

cable into the parking brake lever (see

31

illus-

tration).

Spread the bottom spring enough to allow the lower ends of the shoes to be 21

in

until

the brake drags slightly as the

tire

turned (see illustration).

is

Back

off

the star wheel

until

the

the anchor plate.

22 Spread the top spring and seat the shoes in the wheel cylinder pistons.

Refer to

Raise the rear of the vehicle and support securely on jackstands, then block the front

it

Remove the rear wheels. Remove the rear hub/drum (see Chapter

wheels.

1

)

and the brake shoes (see Section

Repeat the adjustment on the opposite in

8).

Disconnect the brake line (tube) from the back of the wheel cylinder and plug it. Use a flare-nut wrench, if available. Unbolt the wheel cylinder and remove it 4 from the backing plate (see illustration). Clean the backing plate and wheel cylinder mating surfaces. 3

Refer to

the plugs

illustration 9.4

Overhaul

wheel. Install

or rebuilt

tire

turns freely.

tration).

seated

narrow screwdriver through the the backing plate and turn the star

28

new

it.

Removal

2

reinstalled.

26

the old wheel cylinder with a unit instead of rebuilding

1

it.

Turn the adjuster

retracted

8.28 Insert the screwdriver into the hole and turn the star wheel

8.27 Pry the rubber plug out of the adjusting hole with a screwdriver

cable into the lever

the backing plate

access holes. 32 Adjust the parking brake. 33 Lower the vehicle and check the brake operation very carefully before placing the vehicle into normal service.

illustration 9.5

Note: You'll need a clean place to work, clean rags, some newspapers, a wheel cylinder rebuild kit, a container of brake fluid and some denatured alcohol to perform a wheel cylinder overhaul.

5

Remove

tration)

the bleeder screw (see illusto make sure it is not

and check

obstructed.

6

Carefully pry the boots from the wheel

and remove them. Push in on one piston and force out the opposite piston, cups and spring with the cup expanders from the bore. 8 Clean the wheel cylinder, pistons and spring with clean brake fluid, denatured alcohol or brake system solvent and dry them cylinder

9 SUPPORT

Wheel cylinder - removal, overhaul and installation

7

Note: Before deciding to rebuild a wheel

CYLINDER

ATTACHING BOLTS

cylinder,

make sure

parts are available.

sometimes more practical

It's

to simply replace

BOOT PISTON PISTON CUP

SPRING PISTON

CUP

BOOT

BLEEDER SCREW

9.4

To detach the wheel cylinder from the

brake backing plate, disconnect the brake tube fitting and remove the two attaching bolts

PISTON

9.5

An exploded view

of a typical wheel cylinder assembly

3 8 1

.

.

Chapter 9

9-13

Brakes

with compressed air. Warning: Do not, under any circumstances, use petroleum-based

1 Place a container and several layers newspaper under the master cylinder

solvents or gasoline to clean brake parts.

catch spilled brake

Check the cylinder bore and pistons for 9 score marks and corrosion (pitting). Slight imperfections in the bore can be removed with fine crocus cloth (use a circular motion). Black stains on the cylinder walls are caused by the cups and will not impair brake operation. If the pistons or wheel cylinder bore are badly scored or pitted, replace the

2

wheel cylinder. 10 Lubricate the components with clean brake fluid or brake assembly lubricant prior to installation.

With the cylinder bore coated with clean brake fluid or brake assembly lube, install the 1

spring and

cup expanders.

Install

the cups

in

each end of the cylinder. Make sure the open ends of the cups are facing each other. Engage the boot on the piston and slide 12 the assembly into the bore. Carefully press the boot over the cylinder end until it is seated. Repeat the procedure for the remaining boot and piston. 1

Install

the bleeder screw.

Installation 14

Apply RTV-type sealant to the wheel

cylinder mating surface of the backing plate.

15

To

install

position,

the wheel cylinder, hold

the

install

it

in

mounting bolts and

them to the specified torque. 16 Unplug the brake line, insert it into the wheel cylinder fitting and carefully thread the

tighten

flare nut into place.

started, tighten

it

Once

the nut

is

properly

securely with a wrench (use

a flare nut wrench

if

available).

17 Install the brake shoes (see Section and the hub/drum (see Chapter 1).

8)

Bleed the brakes (see Section 1 3). Install the wheels and lower the vehicle. Check the brake operation very carefully before placing the vehicle into normal service. 1

19

Unscrew the

illustration),

Use

hole to keep

the master cylinder. Wait several seconds for

fluid.

brake

steel line flare nuts (see

the piston bore, then depress the piston

remove the

lines

and cap them.

wrench, if available, to unscrew the nuts. Allow the fluid in the master cylinder to drain into the container. 3 Remove the mounting nuts and detach the master cylinder from the booster (see illustrations). If you are installing a new master cylinder, it may be necessary to a

flare-nut

transfer the plastic fluid reservoir to the

new

master cylinder. To do so, first drain the reservoir, then place the aluminum portion of the master cylinder in a vise and use your hand (no tools) to gently pull the reservoir off while gently rocking it back and forth. Replace the two rubber grommets with new ones, put them in place in the master cylinder, lubricate them with clean brake fluid and press the reservoir back into place, using a rocking motion. Make sure the bottom of the reservoir touches the top of each grommet. 4 Every time the master cylinder is removed, the complete hydraulic system must be bled. The time required to bleed the system can be reduced if the master cylinder is filled with fluid and bench bled before the master cylinder is installed on the vehicle. 5

Insert

and fill both The master

Master cylinder

-

removal and

installation

brake fluid. be supported in a level manner so that brake fluid will not spill during the bench bleeding procedure. Loosen one plug at a time and push the 6 piston assembly into the bore to force air from the master cylinder. To prevent air from being drawn back into the cylinder, the plug must be tightened before allowing the piston with

to return to

its

original position.

Since high pressure is not involved in the bench bleeding procedure, an alternative to the removal and replacement of the plug with each stroke of the piston assembly

is

available. Before pushing in

Refer to

illustrations 10.2. 10.3a

and 10.3b

Note: The master cylinder installed on these vehicles cannot be rebuilt. If problems are encountered, replace it with a new unit.

fluid to

be drawn from the reservoir

into

into

again, removing your finger as the brake fluid

expelled. Be sure to put your finger back over the hole each time before releasing the piston. When the bleeding procedure is is

complete tighten

for that port, replace the plug

and

snugly before going on to the other

it

port to repeat the procedure.

8

Stroke the piston three or four times for

each

ensure that

outlet to

all air

has been

expelled.

9 voirs

the master cylinder reservoirs and

Refill

install

the cover assembly. Note: The reser-

should only be

filled to

the top of the

reservoir divider to prevent overflowing

the cover

10

To

install

the master cylinder, hold

it

in

pushrod and master piston and install the mounting nuts.

position, cylinder

when

installed.

is

align

the

Tighten the nuts to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. 11 Install the lines and carefully start the flare nuts, taking care not to cross-thread them. After they have been started by hand, tighten them securely with a flare-nut wrench. 12 Fill the master cylinder reservoir and bleed the brakes.

11

Brake hoses and lines inspection and replacement

cylinder should

7

10

air

threaded plugs of the correct size

into the cylinder outlet holes

reservoirs

from being drawn back

of

to

on the piston assembly, remove the plug, then depress the piston as described above. Before releasing the piston, however, instead of replacing the plug, simply put your finger tightly over the

Refer to

illustrations

11.4a

and 11.4b

1 About every six months, the flexible hoses which connect the steel brake lines with the rear brakes and the front calipers should be inspected for cracks, chafing of the outer cover, leaks, blisters and other damage. Replacement steel and flexible brake 2 lines are commonly available from dealer parts departments and auto parts stores. Do

not, under any circumstances, use anything other than steel lines or approved flexible brake hoses as replacement items.

3

When

installing the

least 3/4-inch

moving or 4

brake

between the

line,

line

leave at

and any

vibrating parts.

When

disconnecting a hose and a

line,

9

10.2 To remove the master cylinder, disconnect the two brake line fittings

(arrows) with a flare nut

wrench

.

.

10.3a

.

.

.

then remove the mounting nuts

from the

driver's side

.

.

and passenger's side of the 10.3b master cylinder - once the nuts are removed, lift the master cylinder off the booster .

.

.

.

Brakes

Chapter 9

9-14

also

be

bled, but this

is

a separate procedure.

ABS

system requires the same special tester used to diagnose the system and must be done by a dealer service department. Note 2: Bleeding the hydraulic system is necessary to remove air that manages to find its way into the system when it's been opened during removal and installation of a hose, line, caliper or master cylinder. It'll probably be necessary to bleed the 1 system at all four brakes if air has entered the system due to low fluid level, or if the brake lines have been disconnected at the master Bleeding the

11.4a

To detach a metal brake

the flexible hose, loosen the flare-nut

wrench

.

line

fitting

from

with a

11.4b ... then pull off the retaining clip with needle-nose pliers

.

cylinder. If a brake line was disconnected only at a wheel, then only that caliper or wheel

2

cylinder

wrench (see fitting has been Once the illustration). removed clip can be loosened, the spring loosen the

fitting

with a flare-nut

(see illustration). When connecting two hoses, use open5 end wrenches on the hose ends. When connecting two hoses, make sure they're not bent, twisted or strained

in

system. The function of the controller is to accept and process information received from the wheel speed sensors to control the hydraulic line pressure and avoid wheel lock up. It also monitors the system and stores fault codes which indicate specific problems.

Wheel speed sensors

any way.

A speed

sensor

is

mounted

Steel brake lines are usually retained at several points with clips. Always remove the

The speed sensors send

before detaching a steel brake line. Always reinstall the clips (on new ones if the old ones are damaged) when replacing a brake line

Diagnosis and repair

6

clips

they provide support and keep the lines from vibrating, which can eventually break them. After installing a line or hose, bleed the 7 brakes (see Section 1 3).

controller indicating

Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) general information

-

later models have an System (ABS) designed to

maintain vehicle maneuverability, directional stability, and optimum deceleration under

severe braking conditions on most road surfaces. It does so by monitoring the

wheels and controlling the brake line pressure to the wheels during braking. This prevents the wheels from rotational

speed

of the

Components for

pumps

provide high-pressure brake

the

ABS system

is

various valves and orifices.

mounted below the

and any

of the brakes, that part of the

system

served by the disconnected line must be bled. 4 Remove any residual vacuum from the brake power booster by applying the brake several times with the engine off. Remove the master cylinder reservoir 5 cover and fill the reservoir with brake fluid. Reinstall the cover. Note: Check the fluid level often during the bleeding operation and add fluid as necessary to prevent the fluid

from falling low enough to allow air into the master cylinder. 6 Have an assistant on hand, as well as a supply of new brake fluid, a clear plastic container partially filled with clean brake fluid, a length of tubing (preferably clear) to fit over

level

the bleeder screw and a wrench to open and

close the bleeder screw. the bleeder screw slightly, then tighten

system are indicated by a red warning light. Although a special electronic tester is necessary to properly diagnose the system, the home mechanic can perform a few preliminary checks before taking the vehicle to a dealer service department which is

equipped with a)

Make

Beginning at the

right rear

wheel, loosen it

to a

snug but can still be loosened quickly and easily. 8 Place one end of the tubing over the bleeder screw and submerge the other end in point

brake

where

fluid in

it's

the container (see illustration).

this tester.

sure the brake calipers are

in

good

condition. b)

Check

the

60-way

connector

electrical

at the controller. c)

Check

d)

Follow the wiring harness to the speed sensors and brake light switch and make sure all connections are secure and the

the fuses.

damaged. the above preliminary checks don't the problem, the vehicle should be

wiring isn't

diagnosed by a dealer service department.

activated.

regulates brake pressure during a stop the ABS system is activated. The is

bled.

7

If

when

modulator

fitting

must be

a brake line was disconnected at a located between the master cylinder

will

rectify

The modulator assembly contains the It

the

system. However, the main brake system function normally. Faults in the main brake

when

Modulator assembly pump motor and

started,

is

If

ABS

fluid to

the accumulators or hydraulic system

Each time the vehicle

one to two seconds). amber warning light comes on and stays on during vehicle operation, or if comes on intermittently, there may be a fault in the

each hydraulic The

are driven by an electric motor.

speed.

(usually for

Pumps The pumps, one

rotational

the system runs a self-test. The amber ABS warning light comes on during the test

locking up prematurely during hard braking.

circuit,

wheel

it

Description Some 1991 and Anti-lock Brake

each wheel.

voltage signals to the

The ABS system has self-diagnostic capabilities.

If

12

at

3

battery

and

protected by an acid shield.

Controller The controller is mounted on the passenger side frame rail in the engine compartment and is the "brain" for the

13

Brake hydraulic system

-

bleeding Refer to

illustration

13.8

Warning: Wear eye protection when bleeding the brake system. If the fluid comes in contact with your eyes, immediately rinse them with water and seek medical attention. Note 1 The main brake system on vehicles equipped with ABS is bled in the same manner as for non-ABS models. The ABS system must :

When bleeding the brakes, push one end of a clear plastic tube onto the bleeder screw at the caliper or wheel cylinder and submerge the other end in a container of brake fluid; build up pressure in the lines with the brake pedal and open the bleeder screw - air expelled from the 13.8

lines is visible as bubbles; when the bubbles disappear, you've bled the line to that caliper or wheel cylinder

1

1

9-15

Brakes

Chapter 9

WIRE HOOK-PULL 30*1 WHEN ADJUSTING

EQUALIZER

OUTPUT CABLE

INSERT 7/32' ALIEN

WRENCH

MERE

APPROXIMATE MIDPOINT

parking brake

9 Have your assistant pump the brakes slowly a few times to get pressure in the system, then hold the pedal down firmly. 10 While the pedal is held down, open the bleeder screw. Watch for air bubbles to exit the submerged end of the tube. When the fluid

flow slows, tighten the screw, then have

your assistant release the pedal. 1 Repeat Steps 9 and 10 until no more air is seen leaving the tube, then tighten the

bleeder screw and proceed to the left

left

front

rear

gets hot.

13

end

Refill

the master cylinder with

Have an

5 to

make

fluid at

the

of the operation.

14 Check the operation of the brakes. The pedal should feel solid when depressed, with no sponginess. If necessary, repeat the entire process. Warning: Don'f operate the vehicle if you're in doubt about the condition of the brake system.

Parking brake

Refer to

-

adjustment

illustration 14.4

Note: Models since 1993 are equipped with a parking brake system. The parking brake does not require any routine adjustment unless a cable has been

self-adjusting

The

drum brakes must be

proper working order before adjusting the parking brake (see Section 5 or 6). Block the front wheels to prevent vehicle 2 rear

in

freely

Install all

wrench

15

Parking brake cables

rod from turning by holding

without

items removed.

17

it

with a

or pair of pliers.

and

Loosen the nut until the rear wheels turn freely, then back it off an additional two full

-

removal

installation

7

Raise the rear of the vehicle and support

1

turns.

Apply and release the parking brake times to make sure it operates properly. It must lock the rear wheels when applied and the wheels must turn easily,

securely on jackstands.

8

several

without dragging,

9

Lower the

when

it's

released.

Front cable (1982 through 1992 models) Refer to

vehicle.

2

illustrations 15.3

Working under the

adjusting nut

until

(see illustration 14.4).

Refer to

illustration 14.

3

Note

This procedure

1

:

12 is

required only after

a cable has been replaced. Note 2: Steps 10 through 14 are required

to

Remove

courtesy 11

light

Pull the

the

ash

receiver

and the

from the center console. carpet back from the sides of

the console.

Use

a wire

15.8

vehicle, loosen the in

the cables

Detach the rear end of the front cable from the connector that attaches it to the middle cable (see illustration). From inside the vehicle, remove the 4 driver's side kick panel.

reload the self-adjuster.

10

and

there's slack

1993 and later models

hook and

pull

up on the

5

Pull

up the forward end

cable and disconnect

of the front

it.

Pinch the cable retainer with needlenose pliers and pull it down through the cable

6

retaining bracket. Pull the

cable assembly through the

equalizer cable with about 30 lbs of force.

7

Continue to pull until the self adjuster lockout pawl is positioned about midway on the self

grommet

adjuster sector (see illustration).

(see illustration overleaf) 9 Adjust the parking brake (see Sec-

Insert a 7/32-inch Allen wrench into the 13 hex socket and rotate the lockout pawl

8

in

the hole

Installation

is

in

the floor.

the reverse of removal

tion 14).

clockwise into the self adjuster sector. This requires very -

device

1982 through 1992 models

wheel should rotate

Tighten the adjusting nut until a slight drag can be felt when the rear wheels are turned. You may have to keep the adjuster

pawl

replaced.

1

rear

dragging.

sure they turn easily.

6

12

14

assistant rotate the rear wheels

15.3

it

wheel and the right front wheel, in that order, and perform the same procedure. Be sure to check the fluid in the master cylinder reservoir frequently. 12 Never use old brake fluid. It contains moisture which will deteriorate the brake system components and boil when the fluid

wheel, the

Once you've loosened the equalizer adjusting nut, detach the rear end of the front cable from this connector

14.12 Pull up on the equalizer cable with about 30 lbs of force using a wire hook

14.4 Turn this nut to adjust the

little

effort to rotate the lockout

do not force the lockout pawl will fail

or the

to operate correctly.

14 Adjust the rear brake so the rear brake shoes are expanded to 6-3/4 inches in diameter.

Rear cable (1982 through 1992

9

models) Drum brakes Refer to

illustrations 15. 14

Remove

and

15.

15

wheels and the hub/drum assemblies (see Chapter 1). 1 Back off the equalizer adjusting nut (see 10

the

rear

3 Clean the cable adjuster threads with a wire brush and lubricate them with multipurpose grease. 4 Loosen the adjusting nut (see illus-

15 Insert a 7/32-inch Allen wrench into the hex socket and rotate it counterclockwise 15-degrees (see illustration 14.12). At first, the lockout device will emit a loud snapping noise followed by a softer detent noise that is more felt on the wrench than hearing of the snapping noise. Very little effort is required to seat the lockout arm into the detent. 16 Apply the parking brake lever several

Disconnect the rear brake cable from the brake shoe lever (see illustration 8.6) 13 Locate the retainer at the end of the rear cable, where it enters the brake shoe backing plate. Pinch this retainer with pliers (or use a hose clamp) and pull the retainer through the

tration) until there's slack in the cable.

times to correctly position the cables. The

backing

movement, support

it

raise the rear of the vehicle

and

securely on jackstands. Release

the parking brake.

illustration 14.4) until the cable

12

plate.

is

slack.

6

9-16

Chapter 9 ADJUSTING

CABLE ADJUSTING

HOOK

Brakes

EQUAUZER

NUT

'

REAR

WIRE GUIDE

DISC BRAKE.

ROUTING

VIEW IN DIRECTION OF ARROW Z RT & LT SIDE

15.8 Parking brake cable installation details (1982 through 1992 models)

14

Remove

the cable lock from the brake

cable support bracket on the

trailing

arm (see

and detach the cable from the arm assembly. 15 Disconnect the rear brake cable from the connector at the end of the middle cable illustration)

trailing

The above procedure also applies

to the

other rear cable.

17

the adapter.

in

22

(see illustration). 1

20 Disconnect the parking brake cable from the lever on the parking brake shoe. Compress the retainer on the end of the 21 cable housing with pliers or a hose clamp and feed the cable through the retaining hole

Installation is the reverse of

(see illustration 15.8). 18 Adjust the parking

removal

Remove

the parking brake cable clip at

the cable support bracket and remove the

backing

cable from the vehicle.

28 Pull the cable out from the rear suspension trailing arm. 29 Remove the bolt and nut retaining the cable to the floor pan and pull the cable

23

The above procedure also applies

24

Installation

is

the reverse of removal.

tion 14).

Single rear cables (1993

Disc brakes 19 Remove the

later)

Sections 4 and

caliper

to the

other rear cable.

brake (see Sec-

and brake disc (see

5).

26 Disconnect the parking brake cable from the brake shoe lever. 27 Locate the retainer at the end of the cable, where it enters the brake shoe backing plate. Pinch this retainer with pliers to depress the tangs (or use a screw-type hose clamp) and pull the retainer through the

and

through the floor pan.

30

25 Remove the rear wheels and hub/drum assembles (see Chapter 1).

plate.

the

Disconnect the cable from the equalizer

at the parking brake lever.

31

The above applies

32

Installation

16

Parking brake shoes (rear disc brake models) - removal

and ——-

—-i

n

Refer to 1

15.14 Using a hammer and punch, knock the cable lock loose from the brake cable support bracket on the trailing arm and detach the cable from the bracket

15.15 Pull forward on the rear cable to

disconnect

it

from

this

connector

—

—

"^*^

!

"

illustrations 16.3, 16.4, 16.5

Remove 4,

'

and 16.6

the brake caliper and disc (See

5 and

Remove

Chapter 3

to both cables.

the reverse of removal.

installation

'

Sections 2

is

6).

the hub and bearings (see

1).

Remove

forward

the hold-down clip from the

parking

brake

shoe

(see

illustration).

4

Back

off the

parking brake adjuster

the way, then remove

it

all

(see illustration).

II

1

.

Chapter 9 DOWN

MOID

16.3

Use

5

adju:

OJP

pliers to

remove the hold-down

Remove

the upper shoe-to-shoe spring

Back

16.4

off

then remove

secures the forward brake shoe

clip that

9-17

Brakes

it

mance

Pull the forward shoe away from its 6 anchor, then remove the shoe and lower

unit with a

spring (see illustration).

brake master cylinder (see Section 1 0). 7 Disconnect the vacuum hose between the engine and the booster. Make sure you don't damage this hose when removing it from the booster fitting. Caution: Disconnect the hose from the check valve on the booster; don t remove the check valve from the booster. Detach the brackets that secure the 8 steel heater coolant tube to the dash panel

7

Remove

the hold-down clip from the

remove the rear shoe. Reverse Steps 3 through 7 to install the 8 shoes. Position the adjuster star wheel toward the front of the vehicle. Turn the star wheel to adjust the parking 9 rear shoe, then

brake shoes to the diameter

listed in this

Chapter's Specifications.

10

The remainder

of installation

is

the

Perform Steps

1

through 10 on the other

side of the vehicle.

17

and 9

reverse of the removal steps. 1

6

Power brake booster

- check, removal and installation

Operating check Depress the brake pedal several times with the engine off and make sure there's no change in the pedal reserve distance. Depress the pedal and start the engine. 2 If the pedal goes down slightly, operation is 1

.

FORWARD

best to replace a defective booster

new

or rebuilt one.

To remove the booster,

driver's side

On

.

brake perfor-

their critical relationship to

(see illustration).

it's

16.5 Remove the upper shoe-to-shoe spring

all the way, from between the shoes

the adjuster

frame

first

remove the

rail.

vehicles with a manual transaxle,

remove the clutch cable mounting bracket. Also push aside the wiring harness on the shock tower. If you need more room, unplug the harness at the multi-connector on the firewall. 10 Working under the dash, position a small screwdriver between the center tang on the retainer clip and the pin in the brake pedal, then rotate the screwdriver enough to allow the retainer clip center tang to pass over the end of the brake pedal pin and pull it from the pin. Disconnect the pushrod from

LOWER SPRING

16.6

from

.

then pull the forward shoe away anchor and disconnect the lower shoe-to-shoe spring from it

.

.

its

the pedal pin. Discard the retainer clip and

use a new one on reassembly. 11

Remove

the nuts and washers holding

the brake booster to the firewall (see illus-

You may need a up under the dash.

tration).

they're

light to

see them

BOOSTER INPUT PEDAL BRACE

ROD POWER BRAKE BOOSTER ASSY

normal.

Airtightness check and turn off after one two minutes. Slowly depress the brake pedal several times. If the pedal goes down

3

Start the engine

it

u-Nirr

or

farther the

first

time but gradually rises after

the second or third depression, the booster

is

9

airtight.

4

DASH

Depress the brake pedal while the

engine

is

running, then stop the engine with

the pedal depressed.

If

there's

no change

in

the pedal reserve travel (distance between the pedal and the floor) after holding the pedal for 30 seconds, the booster

PANEL PIVOT SHAFT

BOOSTER

MOUNTING NUT

is airtight.

5

illustration 17.11

Power brake booster

RETAINER

BUSHING (2)1 BRAKE PEDAL PIN BOOSTER INPUT

Removal and installation Refer to

(4)

CLIP

ROO units should not

be disassembled. They require special tools not normally found in most service stations or shops. They're fairly complex and because of

BRAKE PEDAL 17.11

Power brake booster mounting

details

1

9-18

Brakes

Chapter 9

Slide the booster straight out until the 12 studs clear the holes and lift it (along with any installed gaskets) out of the engine

BRAKE PEDAL BRACKET ASSEMBLY

compartment. Lubricate the bearing surfaces of the 13 brake pedal pin and the tip of the pushrod

STRIKER

NUT

AND

with multi-purpose grease.

14

SWITCH

WASHER

AND BRACKET ASSEMBLY

the booster, along with any previ-

Install

ously installed gaskets. Connect the pushrod to the pedal pin

and

a

install

new

retainer

NUT

clip.

The remainder

AND

the Tighten the of the removal procedure. reverse booster mounting nuts to the torque listed in

15

of

installation

Chapter's Specifications. 16 Adjust the brake light Section 18, Step 8).

is

WASHER

this

18

BRAKE PEDAL ASSEMBLY 18.1

light

switch installation details

light

switch (see illustration)

located under the dash, at the upper end of

is

the brake pedal assembly.

A

plunger on the

switch is in constant contact with a striker at the top of the pedal assembly. When the

pedal

depressed,

is

the

striker

switch and the brake lights pedal is not depressed. a)

moves

the circuit to the brake

b)

there

If

the test

Check Note: Refer of Chapter voltage

in

Diagrams

at the

end

If

fix it

b)

b)

If

(see Chapter

there

Now

is,

proceed

use the test

there's no voltage

in

to the

next Step.

If

there

it.

voltage

in

is,

the switch itself is

is

functioning

somewhere

between the switch and the brake lights. f there isn't, the switch is has an open replace

open and

12).

light to verify that there's

normally the problem

test light to verify that there's

find the short or

or adjust

come To

7

it

(proceed to the next

step).

light to verify that

5

Unplug the

6

The

electrical

you

pull

free.

install

new

the

bracket and plug

8

on the

switch, insert the

in

mounting

the electrical connector.

Push the switch forward as far as it will As you push the retainer socket through in

the bracket,

it

acts

like

a ratchet

(it

can be pushed into the bracket but it can't slip back). The brake pedal will move forward slightly.

9 (very

Gently little

pull

back on the brake pedal

movement

is

needed). This brings

until the brake pedal can't go any further. The switch then

the plunger toward the switch

Replacement

the wire between the

some

if

force, the retainer socket

retainer socket through the switch

the hole

a)

isn't,

it

proceed to the next Step. depress the brake pedal and use

will

lights.

the wire between the battery and

there

switch with

shorted or not

go.

the switch. a)

is

the mounting bracket, but

the wire between the switch and the brake

12.

Use a

2

to the Wiring

the switch

is,

the brake

there isn %

Now

4

lights.

If

when

adjusted correctly- replace

forward, releasing the plunger, which closes

3

Brake

illustration 18.

The brake

1

CLIP

(see

check and

Brake light switch replacement

Refer to

switch

connector.

retainer socket locks the switch into

ratchets

backward

further adjustment

to the correct position. is

necessary.

No

1

10-1

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems Contents Section Automatic suspension systems - general information Balljoints - check and replacement Chassis lubrication Control arm

-

12

See Chapter

removal, inspection and installation

Front end alignment

-

steering

pump

7

Steering gear boots

1

Steering gear

5

Steering knuckle, hub and bearing

1 -

steering system

removal and -

17

installation

18

bleeding

Rear axle assembly - removal and installation Rear shock absorbers and coil springs - removal, inspection

and installation Rear spindle - inspection, removal and installation Rear wheel bearing check, repack and adjustment Stabilizer bar - removal and installation

and

20

general information

General information

Power Power

Section Steering and suspension checks

1

See Chapter

-

See Chapter

replacement removal and installation -

-

removal and installation Strut assembly - removal and installation Strut - replacement Tie-rod ends - removal and installation Tire and tire pressure checks -

8

Tire rotation

9

Track bar assembly

1

Wheels and

tires

-

-

removal and

15 16

removal, inspection

installation

Steering wheel

1

installation

general information

6 13 2 3 14

See Chapter See Chapter

1 1

10 19

4

Specifications

Torque specifications

Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)

Front suspension clamp bolt/nut 1982 and 1983 1984 through 1990 1991 on

Balljoint

50 70 105

See Chapter 8

Driveaxle/hub nut Control arm

pivot bolt nuts

1982 through 1985 1986 through 1990 1991 on Stabilizer bar bolts

105 95 125

(all)

1982 through 1990 1991 on Strut assembly

25 50

Strut-to-steering knuckle nuts

1982 and 1983 1984 on Upper mounting nuts

Damper

45 plus 1/4-turn 75 plus 1/4-turn 20

shaft nut

1987 and earlier 1988 through 1990 (without variable damping) 1990 (with variable damping) 1991 on..

60 55 75 55 plus 1/4-turn

Rear suspension arm-to-hanger bracket mounting nuts 1989 to 1991 1992 Track bar Trailing

Pivot bolt at axle (lower end)

40 45

Shock absorber mounting bolts/nuts Spindle/brake assembly mounting bolts (drum and disc brakes)

70 55 45 55

Steering Crossmember mounting

90

Pivot bolt at frame bracket (upper end)

bolts

Ignition switch/shifter interlock

Non-power steering Power steering

adjustment nut

15 to 25 in-lbs to 65

45 55

10

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

10-2

Ft-ibs (unless otherwise indicated)

Torque specifications (continued) Steering gear mounting bolts/nuts

21

1982 through 1990 1991 on Steering wheel retaining nut

50 45

Tie-rod end-to-steering knuckle nut Non-power steering

25 t0 50 38

Power steering Wheel lug nuts

See Cha P ter

1

General information Refer to

illustrations 1.1

and

Warning: On models so working

in

1.2

equipped, whenever

the vicinity of the front grille/bumper,

steering wheel, steering column or other components of the airbag system, the system should be disarmed. To do this, perform the following steps: a)

b)

Turn the ignition switch to Off. Detach the cable from the negative then detach the battery terminal, positive cable. Wait two minutes for the electronic module backup power supply to

be depleted.

To enable the system a)

Turn the ignition switch to the Off position.

b)

Connect the positive battery cable then connect the negative cable.

first,

Front suspension is by MacPherson struts. The steering knuckles are located by control arms and both control arms are connected by a stabilizer bar (see illus-

1.1 1

Strut

assembly

Front suspension and steering components

2

Control arm

3

Stabilizer

bar

4

Steering gear

tration).

The

rear suspension features a

beam-

type axle with coil springs, located by trailing arms and a track bar (see illustration). Damping is handled by vertically-mounted shock absorbers located between the axle

and the chassis.

The rack-and-pinion steering gear

is

located behind the engine and actuates the steering arms which are integral with the steering knuckles. Power assist is optional

and the steering column

is

designed to

collapse in the event of an accident. Note: These vehicles use a combination of standard and metric fasteners on the various

suspension and steering components, so it would be a good idea to have both types of tools available

A

when beginning

work.

shifter-ignition interlock

is

used on

automatic transaxle models to 1992 and lock the shifter in Park when the ignition switch is in the Lock or Accessory position. Frequently, when working on the later

suspension or steering system components, you may come across fasteners which seem impossible to loosen. These fasteners on the

underside of the vehicle are continually subjected to water, road grime, mud, etc.,

and can become rusted or frozen, making them extremely difficult to remove. In order to unscrew these stubborn fasteners without damaging them (or other components), be sure to use lots of penetrating oil and allow it

1

Shock absorber

1.2

Rear suspension components

2

Coil spring

soak in for a while. Using a wire brush to clean exposed threads will also ease removal of the nut or bolt and prevent damage to the threads. Sometimes a sharp blow with a hammer and punch will break the bond between a nut and bolt threads, but care must be taken to prevent the punch from

to

3

Rear axle assembly

4

Track bar

and ruining the threads. Heating the stuck fastener and surrounding area with a torch sometimes helps too, but isn't recommended because of the obvious dangers associated with fire. Long breaker bars and extension, or slipping off the fastener

"cheater", pipes

will

increase leverage, but

1

10-3

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

2.3

Mark the position

of the

camber cam

Remove

the bolt (arrow) and detach the brake hose bracket from the strut

2.5

(arrow) in relation to the strut

securely on jackstands.

never use an extension pipe on a ratchet - the ratcheting mechanism could be damaged.

wheels.

Sometimes

3

tightening the nut or bolt

help to break

it

first will

loose. Fasteners that require

measures to remove should always be replaced with new ones. Since most of the procedures dealt with in this Chapter involve jacking up the vehicle and working underneath it, a good pair of jackstands will be needed. A hydraulic floor drastic

jack

is

the preferred type of jack to

and

the

lift

can also be used to support certain components during various operations. Warning: Never, under any circumstances, rely on a jack to support the vehicle while working on it. Whenever any of the suspension or steering fasteners are loosened or removed they must be inspected and, if necessary, replaced with new ones of vehicle,

the

same

Remove

the front

of the

Remove the strut-to-steering knuckle cam and washer plate. Disconnect the brake hose bracket from

Remove

the upper mounting nuts (see

1

illustration),

disengage the strut from the and detach it from the

telltale

number

or

of

original

7 Inspect the strut and coil spring assembly for leaking fluid, dents, damage and corrosion. If the strut is damaged, see

Section

To

8

install

the strut, place

it

in

position

with the studs extending up through the

shock tower.

Install

the nuts and tighten

them

cations.

attempt to heat or straighten any suspension

then insert the strut-to-steering knuckle bolts

Or steering components. Instead, replace any

through the

in this

Chapter's Specifi-

Attach the strut to the steering knuckle,

9

cam and washer

plate. Install the

them yet. Attach the brake hose bracket

nuts, but don't tighten

10

Strut

assembly

-

removal and

Refer to illustrations

Loosen the

1

Raise

2

2.3, 2.5, 2.6

and

2. 1

wheel lug nuts. vehicle and support

front

the

r

removing

the

spring

coil

it

aside

in

a

from

the

strut

safe, isolated area.

wood

made on

damage

and don't tighten the vise

the

cam and

strut.

Tighten the to

it

in this

Chapter's Specifica-

tions.

STRUT

complete with springs may be available on an exchange basis, which eliminates much time and work. Whichever route you choose to take, check on the cost and availability of parts before disassembling your vehicle. Warning: Disassembling a strut assembly is a potentially dangerous undertaking and utmost attention must be directed to the job, or sehous injury may result. Use only a high-quality spring compressor and carefully follow the manufac-

the vise jaws with

Install

steering knuckle-to-strut bolts and nuts

ASSEMBLY

and must be replaced

a problem develops. However, strut assem-

assembly, set

the torque listed C-OAMP

if

a C-clamp on the strut and knuckle (see illustration). Tighten it just enough to remove any looseness between the knuckle and strut. Align the marks you 11

installation

blies are not serviceable

or

turer's instructions furnished with the tool. After

to the

strut.

2

loss of

sagging

chipped,

capability,

blies

3.

to the torque listed

new one.

fluid,

vehicle.

quality and design. Torque specimust be followed for proper reassembly and component retention. Never

with a

signs of wear (leaking

cracked coil springs), explore all options before beginning any work. The strut insert assem-

fications

damaged part

the struts or coil springs exhibit the

damping

equipment

bent or

If

steering knuckle

it

part

illustrations 3.4, 3.5

parts stores or equipment yards.

the strut (see illustration).

6

replacement

-

and 3.6 Note: You'll need a spring compressor for this procedure. Spring compressors are available on a daily rental basis at most auto Refer to

nuts, bolts,

5

Strut

camber cam

(see illustration). 4

-

3

Mark the position

Remove these

three upper mounting nuts (arrows) DO NOT remove the center nut!

2.6

12

Install

the wheels and lower the vehicle.

2

Remove

(see Section

3

the strut and spring assembly

2).

Mount the

strut

to the unit

assembly

in

a vise. Line

or rags to prevent

excessively. Install the spring compressor in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions (see illustration). Compress the spring until

4

CAM BOU

•

\\ K*7^ —:,-»

INDEX

10

MARKS a\\W««w«'

^^Sj/*

_CAM RTMT

KNUCKLE-

£^

Install a C-clamp to hold the knuckle 1 and strut together while you align the camber cam, then tighten the knuckle-tostrut bolts and nuts

2.1

compressor in accordance with the tool manufacturer's instructions and compress the spring until all pressure is removed from the upper spring seat

3.4 Install the spring

:

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

10-4

SPACER

i

(AS REQUIRED)

'

DUST SHIELD

To remove the damper shaft nut, hold the shaft in place with a box-end wrench and loosen the nut with another box

3.5

end wrench you can wiggle the mount assembly and spring seat.

To loosen the damper shaft nut, hold the box-end wrench while loosening the shaft nut with another box-end wrench 5

shaft with a

3.6

(see illustration).

6

Disassemble the

out the parts

shown (see

in

assembly and

strut

removing the compressed spring, very carefully

and

set

in

it

lift it

off

a safe place, such

as a steel cabinet. Keep the ends of the sphng away from your body. Note: Mark the spring so it can be reinstalled on the same of the

side

which

from

vehicle

it

was

removed. 7 Inspect all rubber parts for damage, cracking and hardness and replace as

Remove

2

Reassembly is the reverse of disasBe careful not to damage the

sembly.

When

damper

shaft or the strut

installing

the spring, be sure the spring ends

leak.

will

mesh

with the spring anti-rotation stops provided by the spring upper and lower seats.

nuts and retainers from the control arms (see illustration).

Support the stabilizer bar and remove 3 the stabilizer bar clamp bolts and clamps from the crossmember (see illustration). Remove the stabilizer bar from the vehicle.

Check the bar

4

and signs

Stabilizer bar

-

removal and

installation

for

damage, corrosion

the

clamps,

wear.

Replace the inner bushings by prying them open at the split and removing them. Install the new bushings with the curved surface (early models) or external rib (later models) up and the split facing toward the front of the vehicle. The outer bushings can be removed by cutting them off or hammering them from the bar. Force the new bushings onto the end the

bar

until

1/2-inch

of

the

protruding. Silicone spray lubricant

bar

will

is

ease

this process.

6

1

illustrations 4.2

Loosen the

front

and

wheel

lug nuts, raise

the front of the vehicle, support

it

securely on

jackstands and remove the front wheels.

back-up wrench on each nut (on top of control arm, not visible) and remove these retainer bolts (arrows) and retainers from both control arms 4.2 Put a

7

Control arm - removal, inspection and installation

5

them completely

Install

Refer to

yet.

the bushing retainers and bolts on

illustrations 5.3, 5.4, 5.5

Disconnect the stabilizer bar from the arms (see Section 4) and rotate the. bar down, out of the way. 3 Remove the front pivot bolt and nut from the control arm (see illustration). 4 Remove the rear pivot bolt and nut (see illustration) from the control arm. 2

control

Remove

the balljoint clamp pinch bolt

and nut from the steering knuckle (see

illus-

tration).

6

Pull the balljoint

knuckle. Caution:

stud from the steering the steering

Do not move

knuckle/strut assembly

completely

separate the inner

4.3 Remove these clamp bolts (arrows) and both clamps from the crossmember

5.9

wheels.

the control arms, but don't tighten the bolts yet.

and

Raise the front of the vehicle, support it securely on jackstands and remove the front 1

5

Attach the bar to the crossmember, then the clamps, bolts and nuts, but don't

tighten

4.3

Raise the control arms to normal ride height and tighten the bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. 9 Install the wheels and lower the vehicle.

and

bushings

damage and

install

Refer to

assembly

8

of twisting.

Check

5

of

4

the stabilizer bar retainer bolts,

retainers for distortion,

necessary.

8

of the strut

lay

same order as Warning: When

exactly the

illustration).

An exploded view

5.3

out or you

may

CV joint.

Use a back-up wrench to remove the and nut from the front of the control arm

pivot bolt

1

a balljoint are worn, have them replaced by a

from the

dealer service department or repair shop with

retainer.

the special tools necessary to

do the

job.

Some

bushings are not serviceable and the entire control arm must be replaced if the bushings are worn. Installation is the reverse of removal 9 (see illustration). Don't tighten the pivot bolts until the vehicle is at normal ride height. 10 After you've installed the wheels and lowered the vehicle so that its weight is on the suspension, tighten the pivot bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. Note:

5.4

Remove

by removing the

strut

Remove the caliper and brake pads (see Chapter 9), then remove the caliper mounting bracket from the steering knuckle. Taking care not to twist the brake hose, hang the caliper out of the way in the wheel well with a piece of wire.

Remove

9

the

Steering knuckle, hub and bearing - removal, inspection and

washer

retainer

(if

equipped) from the wheel stud and pull off the brake disc. 10 Mark the position of the camber cam (see Section

2).

Remove

the balljoint pinch bolt and nut

and disengage the

6

and

bolt

8

1

the pivot bolt from the rear of the control arm

10-5

Suspension and steering systems

Chapter 10

balljoint

knuckle (see Section

Remove

12

from the steering

5).

the steering knuckle-to-strut

and nuts (see Section 2). With the knuckle and hub assembly in the straight-ahead position, grasp it securely bolts

installation

13

Removal

and

Refer to

splines. Caution:

1

illustrations 6.

1

and

6.

14

With the vehicle weight resting on the

front suspension,

remove the hub cap,

cotter

pin, nut lock and spring washer. Loosen, but do not remove, the front hub (driveaxle) nut

back-up wrench, remove the pinch bolt and nut for the balljoint stud clamp at the bottom of the steering

5.5 Using a

knuckle, then pull the control arm down to separate the stud from the knuckle

straight

8

the control arm by pulling

it

down.

Inspect the control arm for distortion

and the bushings deterioration.

If

or bent, replace

for

wear,

it.

If

damage and is damaged

arm

the control

an inner pivot bushing or

driveaxle

directly out

Inspection Place the assembly on a clean work

14

surface and wipe

wheels.

cracks.

Remove

the driveaxle

hub nut and

washer. 4 Push the driveaxle in until it is free of the hub. It may be necessary to tap on the axle drift

and hammer

to

5

Remove

it off with a Inspect the knuckle for rust,

7

it

them

If

the bearings are bad or

in

do the following: 1982 through 1990 models: Further disassembly will have to be left to your dealer service department or a repair shop because of the special tools

doubtful condition, a)

required. b)

Disconnect the brake hose bracket

damage and

the bearings by rotating

make

clean grease.

the cotter pin and nut and use

with a piece of wire.

Check

lint-free cloth.

sure they move freely, without excessive noise or looseness. The bearings should be packed with an adequate supply of

to

a puller to disconnect the tie-rod end from the steering knuckle (see Section 14). Move the tie-rod out of the way and 6

secure

the driveaxle

off

CVjoint.

lug nuts (see illustration). Raise the front of the vehicle, support it securely on jackstands and remove the front

3

and

Be careful not to pull the out or you may disengage the inner

2

dislodge the driveaxle from the hub.

Remove

it

and wheel

end with a brass 7

pull

1991 and

later

models: Remove four

bolts that secure the

hub and bearing

STRUT DAMPER

CROSSMEMBER

CAM

BOLT NUT

(REFERENCE)

PIVOT BOOT

FRONT

ADAPTOR SCREW AND WASHER PIVOT BOLT REAR

DRIVE SHAFT

•RAKE CALIPER

NUT

CLAMP BOLT

10

LOWER CONTROL

ARM

ASSEMBLY

LOWER CONTROL ARM (REFERENCE

NUT LOCK BOIT

6.1

5.9

An exploded view of typical arm components

control

HUB NUT

An exploded view of a typical steering knuckle assembly and related components (pre-1991 model shown; 1991 and later models use a one-piece hub and bearing assembly which is bolted to the hub)

.

10-6

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

HUB AND BEARING ASSEMBLY

Balljoints - check and replacement

7

Refer to

illustration 7.2

The suspension

1

balljoints are

designed

to operate without freeplay.

To check

2

for wear, place a prybar or

between the control arm and the underside of the steering knuckle and try to lever the knuckle from side to side large screwdriver

^ m

7.2 Try to lever the steering knuckle

KNUCKLE

On 1991 and later models, the hub and bearing assembly is unbolted from the knuckle and replaced as a unit

6.14

strut.

to the torque listed in this

21

t

Prior to installation, clean the

CV

joint

and the hub grease seal with solvent (don't get any solvent on the CV joint boot). seal

Lubricate the entire circumference of the joint

CV

wear sleeve and seal contact surface

with multi-purpose grease (see Chapter

8).

16 Carefully place the knuckle and hub assembly in position. Align the splines of the axle and the hub and slide the hub into place. 17 Install the knuckle-to-strut bolts, camber cam, washer plate and nuts, followed by the balljoint pinch bolt and nut. Adjust the

automotive machine shop to have the old balljoint pressed out and a new one pressed in.

in

Chapter's Specifications. 18 Reattach the tie-rod end to the steering knuckle, tighten the nut and install a new

20

Chapter's

2)

this

Tighten the bolts in a criss-cross pattern

Installation 15

position of the camber cam (see Section and tighten the nuts to the torque listed

assembly to the knuckle, then remove the assembly (see illustration). Make sure the mounting surfaces are completely clean and free of nicks, then install a new hub and bearing assembly.

Specifications.

from

side-to-side with a prybar or large screwdriver

(see illustration). 3 If there is any movement, the balljoint is worn and must be replaced with a new one. Remove the control arm (see Section 5) and take it to a dealer service department or

Rear shock absorbers and

8

springs

-

coil

removal, inspection and

installation

cotter pin (see Section 14).

19

Install

brake

the

and

pads

disc,

caliper/adapter assembly (see Chapter

9).

Removal

Reattach the brake hose bracket to the

Refer to illustrations 8.2a, 8.2b, 8.3a and 8.3b

Push the CV

it

Raise the rear of the vehicle and support

1

completely into the seated and install the

joint

hub to make sure it is washer and hub nut finger tight. Install the wheels, hand tighten the lug 22 nuts, lower the vehicle and tighten the wheel lug nuts to the torque specified in

Chapter

1

2

securely on jackstands. '

Support the axle with a jack and remove

the rear wheels (see illustrations).

3

Remove

mounting

the lower and upper shock

(see illustrations) detach the shock absorber. bolts

and

23

With an assistant applying the brakes, hub nut to the torque specified in Chapter 8. Install the spring washer, nut lock and a new cotter pin. 24 With the weight of the vehicle on the suspension, check the steering knuckle and tighten the

balljoint

nuts to

make

sure they are tightened

properly.

25

Have the vehicle

front

end alignment

checked.

8.2b Support the rear axle with a jack before removing the shock absorber mounting bolts - if you don't, the coil spring, which is under a great deal of pressure, will snap the axle down violently

BRACE (DIAGONAL)

TRACK BAR

PIVOT BUSHING

8.2a

An exploded view

of typical rear suspension

components

8.3a Use a back-up wrench when removing the upper mounting bolt and nut from the shock absorber

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

8.3b Use a back-up wrench when removing the lower mounting nut and bolt from the shock absorber (arrow) 4

you wish to remove the

If

coil springs,

carefully lower the jack, supporting the axle until all

compression

is

relieved

and remove

the coil spring.

10.3

Remove

the track bar pivot bolts (upper bolt shown)

Disconnect and plug the rear brake line at the wheel cylinder (see Chapter 9). Remove the four backing plate 6 mounting bolts and detach the brake 5

assembly and spindle. The bolts may have

Inspection With the shock upright, grasp

each end and pump it in and out several times. The action should be smooth, with no binding or dead spots. 6 Check for fluid leakage. Replace the shock with a new one if it is leaking or if the action is rough. Always replace the shocks in 5

it

at

7

Inspect the jounce of the coil spring.

If

bumper it's

at the upper cracked or dried

remove the two screws that jounce bumper cup to the underside of the frame rail and remove it.

out, replace

attach

Make

any spindle shims.

7

it:

the

sure the

new cup

fasteners are firmly

Place the shim(s)

(if

equipped), spindle

and brake assembly in position, install the bolts and tighten them to the torque listed in Chapter's Specifications, following a

criss-cross pattern.

Connect the brake line and parking brake cable. 9 Install the hub/drum or disc (see Chapter 1), bleed the brakes and adjust the parking brake (see Chapter 9). 8

Check the springs

for

breakage, nicks if you notice

Track bar assembly and installation

and cracks. Replace the spring any of these conditions.

10

Installation

Refer to

9

To

install

removal

the coil springs,

make

sure

1

illustration 10.3

Loosen the

the axle back into position with the jack.

10

2

Hold the shock in position and install the bolts. Tighten the upper bolt to the torque Chapter's Specifications. Lower

the vehicle and tighten the lower bolt to the listed in this

Chapter's Specifications.

vehicle, place

it

Raise the rear axle to normal ride height with a jack. 3

Rear spindle removal and

bar-to-frame pivot bolt (see illustration). Remove the track bar. Inspect the

cracks and deterioration. A dealer service department or automotive machine shop can install new bushings in the

-

inspection,

installation

track bar,

5

for

if

necessary.

Installation

is

the reverse of removal.

Chapter

1

,

the

assembly.

Disconnect the brake lines from the hoses at the trailing arm pivot points. Be prepared for fluid leakage. Disconnect the lower ends of the shock 5 absorbers (see Section 8) and the track bar (see Section 10). Support the lower end of 4

the track bar with a piece of sturdy wire.

6 the

assembly until no longer under

Carefully lower the axle coil

springs

are

compression, then remove the coil springs and isolators. 7 Support the forward ends of the trailing arms with stands and remove the pivot bolts

Remove

the axle assembly.

Inspect the pivot bushings. 9 cracked or dried out, replace them.

If

they're

10 Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to bleed the brakes after the job is complete (see Chapter 9).

12

Automatic suspension systems

-

general information

Variable damping Some models are equipped variable

Removal Remove

in

clear of the axle

Support the track bar while you remove

bushings

1

cables through the holes

arms so they're

the track bar-to-axle pivot bolt and the track

4

9

trailing

8

rear wheel lug nuts, raise the

securely on jackstands and remove the rear wheels.

torque

Disconnect the rear parking brake 3 cables from the middle cable at the connectors, detach the retaining brackets

(see illustration)

they're seated properly, then carefully raise

listed in this

bracket - it looks like the bolt will hit the body, but there's a small hole in the body behind the rubber flap on the right

Pull the rear

tightened.

8

To remove the pivot bolts for the arms, remove the nuts (arrow) and drive the bolt through the bushing and 11.7

trailing

and remove the cable retainer clips from the brackets on the trailing arms (see Chapter 9).

Installation

this

pairs.

end

Torx-type heads, which require a special tool for removal. Be sure to mark the location of

10-7

with

a

damping system, which consists

of

special variable-damping struts, a variable the rear hub/drum or disc (see

Rear wheel bearing check, repack

1 1

and adjustment). Clean the spindle and inspect the 2 bearing contact surfaces for wear and

damage. The spindle should be replaced with a 3 new one if it is bent, damaged or worn. 4 Disconnect the parking brake cable from the brake assembly (see Chapter 9).

Rear axle assembly and installation

Refer to 1

removal

illustration 11.7

Loosen the

vehicle, place

it

rear

wheel lug nuts, raise the

securely on jackstands and

remove the rear wheels. Support the axle at the center with a

2

floorjack.

damping control module (VDCM). a selector switch and the wiring harness connecting these components. The variable damping system allows you to select between three different calibrations

-

firm,

normal or soft

-

anytime the ignition is turned on. An electnc motor-driven valve within each strut can

change the size of the fluid bypass onfices m each unit to obtain each of the above damping calibrations. This system controls

10

.

10-8

.

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

1

removed the steering mark the relationship of the

13.3 After you've

wheel

nut,

13.4

Use a bolt-type puller like this one remove the steering wheel

14.2a To disconnect the tie-rod end from the steering knuckle, remove the cotter pin and loosen the castellated nut

to

steering wheel to the shaft to ensure

.

.

proper alignment at reassembly vehicle ride only

-

it

doesn't control vehicle

height.

Servicing this system

scope

is

beyond the

home mechanics.

most

of

If

it

malfunctions, take the vehicle to an authorized dealer to

have

Automatic system

air

it

serviced.

load leveling

Some models

are equipped with an

optional automatic air load leveling system,

which consists

of

an

air

compressor, a

delay circuit and, 12 to 18 seconds

later,

the

module activates the exhaust solenoid circuit. Air is vented from the shock absorbers through the air dryer and exhaust solenoid to the atmosphere. As the body comes down, so does the height sensor. When the sensor reaches its original height above the ground, the module opens the exhaust solenoid valve circuit. Servicing this system is beyond the scope of the average home mechanic. If it malfunctions, take the vehicle to an authorized dealer to have the system serviced.

control module, a height sensor, a pair of air

adjustable rear shock absorbers and the lines

and

fittings

air

connecting the compressor

13

to the shocks.

As the vehicle

This activates an internal time delay circuit. After 12 to 18 seconds, the control

the

compressor

ground

circuit

module to

the

With the relay energized, air is sent through the system. As the shock absorbers inflate, the vehicle body moves upward toward its former height. When the body reaches the prescribed height, the control module stops the compressor. As the vehicle is unloaded, its weight decreases, which raises the vehicle and moves the height sensor farther from the ground. This again activates the internal relay.

the compressor motor runs and

Chapter 12 to disarm the airbag system prior to performing any work described below. 1 Disconnect the negative cable at the battery. Place the cable out of the way so it cannot accidentally come in contact with the negative terminal of the battery, as this would

later models), refer to

once again allow power system of the 2

Remove

into the electrical

puller to

remove the

Do not hammer on

the shaft to

remove the

steering wheel.

5

To

install

the wheel, align the mark on

the steering wheel hub with the mark

made

on the shaft during removal and slip the wheel onto the shaft. Install the hub nut (and damper if removed) and tighten it to the torque

listed in this Chapter's Specifications. Connect the horn wires and install the 6 center pad assembly.

7

Connect the negative battery cable.

14

Tie-rod ends

the center pad assembly and

disconnect the horn connectors. 3 Remove ttie steering wheel retaining nut and mark the relationship of the steering

and hub

-

removal and

installation

Refer to 14.3b 1

illustration 14.2a, 14.2b,

14.3a

and

Raise the front of the vehicle, support

it

securely on jackstands, block the rear wheels

and set the parking brake. Remove the

front

wheels. 2

Remove

the tie-rod-to-steering knuckle

cotter pin, loosen the nut, then disconnect

the tie-rod from the steering knuckle with a

vehicle.

to simplify installation (see

14.3a Using a back-up wrench on the rod end, loosen the jam nut with

separating violently

another wrench

.

Use a bolt-type

steering wheel (see illustration). Caution:

illustrations 13.3

install a puller and separate the end from the knuckle; note how the nut is still in place, loosened a few turns - this prevents the components from .

4

removal and

and 13.4 Warning: If the vehicle is equipped with an airbag (some 1989 models and all 1990 and Refer to

shaft

14.2b

automatic transaxle models,

is

height sensor closer to the ground.

activates

-

On

remove the damper.

installation

loaded, its weight increases, which lowers the vehicle and

moves a

Steering wheel

illustration).

puller (see illustrations).

Loosen the jam nut (see illustration), mark the position of the tie-rod end on the inner tie-rod (see illustration), unscrew the tie-rod end and remove it. 3

.

tie-rod

.

.

tie-

then paint an alignment mark on 14.3b the threads of the inner tie-rod to mark the position of the tie-rod end .

.

.

10-9

Suspension and steering systems

Chapter 10

16 MARK BREATHER

Steering gear

-

removal and

installation

TUBE LOCATION

Removal Refer to

'6.8a

illustration 16.3, 16.7.

and

16.8b

BOOT CLAMP

Warning 1: On models equipped with airbags, make sure the steering shaft is not turned while the steering gear or box is removed or you could damage the airbag

(OUTER)

BOOT SEAL

BOOT CLAMP

system. To prevent the shaft from turning, turn the ignition key to the lock position before beginning work or run the seat belt through the steenng wheel and clip the seat

JAM NUT

(INNER)

USE LUBE HERE

15.4 Steering gear boot details

belt into place.

equipped with 4

To

install

the tie-rod end, thread

marked position and

it

onto

2

Remove the tie-rod end (see Remove the boot clamps.

Section

Install

6

groove

tighten

5

Connect the

knuckle,

torque

install

tie-rod

end

to the steering

the nut and tighten

it

to the

Chapter's Specifications.

listed in this

a new cotter pin. Have the front end alignment checked

in

type grease.

alignment shop.

6

new boot

Slide the

replacement Refer to 1

illustration 15.4

Raise the vehicle and support

it

securely

on jackstands.

TIE

is

airbags, refer to Chapter 12 to

Disconnect the tie-rod ends from the

steering knuckles (see Section 14).

3

Support the front crossmember with a

it

on the the groove and

4

Make

the

into position

seats

in

Remove

the four bolts (early models) or

three bolts and one nut (later models) holding

7

Install

the clamp(s).

8

Install

the tie-rod end.

the steering input shaft and the intermediate

9

Lower the

a

new

breather tube

-

vehicle

crossmember to the body. 5 Lower the jack and crossmember far enough to gain access to the U-jomt between

install

Steering gear boots

If

jack (see illustration).

steering gear until

15

2

the steering tie-rod with silicone-

by a dealer service department or an

2:

disarm the airbag system prior to performing any work deschbed below. 1 Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the vehicle, support it securely on jackstands and remove the front wheels.

14).

3 Mark the location of the breather tube, 4 use a small screwdriver to lift the boot out of the groove in the steering gear and remove the boot (see illustration). 5 Prior to installation, lubricate the boot

the rod to the

the jam nut securely.

Warning

inner clamp. fits

securely

in

sure the

the boot.

shaft of the steering column.

vehicle.

Have the front end alignment checked 10 by a dealer service department or an alignment shop.

ROD ADJUSTING NUT (2)

BCHT

AND WASHER

ASSEMBLY

(2)

BOLT

6 joint.

Remove

the boot that protects the U-

Mark the relationship

the intermediate shaft so

of the U-joint to it

can be

re-

AND WASHER

ASSEMBLY

(2)

STEERING

KNUCKLE

(2)

COTTER PIN

(2)

10

STEERING GEAR

VIEW

IN CIRCLE Z

BRACKET

16.3

An exploded view

of the steering gear

assembly and related components

.

10-10

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

r* jj mm- Tin"

5^^ 3

TJfai?

16.7 Disconnect the

two

^^^y^*

Remove

16.8a

fluid line fittings

indicated by arrows; leave the others connected

bolt

(one

the fluid line retainer clip

is

driver's side

visible in this photo)

.

16.8b remove both mounting bolts on the passenger side (one is behind the steering gear) and detach the steering gear from the crossmember .

mounting bolts behind the steering gear and not

and both

.

15 Install the four crossmember bolts models) or three bolts and one nut

member a little farther to separate the U-joint from the intermediate shaft (the U-joint stays

models). Start with the right rear bolt or nut,

and

which

bracket.

with the steering gear).

member correctly, and

On power-steering-equipped models,

7

disconnect the lines (see illustration) and drain the fluid into a container.

Remove

8

and

bolts

the steering gear mounting

fluid line retaining clip bolt

illustrations)

(see

and separate* it from the cross-

member by withdrawing

it

to the

left

side of

the vehicle.

Installation on the crossthe steering gear mounting line retaining clip bolt and

Position the steering gear

9

member, install bolts and fluid tighten them securely. 10 Raise the crossmember and steering gear

into position with the jack.

11

On power

reconnect the

2

(later

(see illustration) from the front of the

securely.

16 Attach the tie-rod ends to the steering knuckles (see Section 14). 17 Install the front wheels and lower the vehicle.

On power

steering-equipped models, start the engine and bleed the steering system (see Section 18). While the engine is running, check for leaks at the hose connections. 19 Have the front end alignment checked by a dealer service department or an alignment shop. 18

17

Power steering pump and installation

-

removal

Use new O-rings on the

Note: Metric fasteners are used on the power steering

pump.

Connect the

U-joint to the intermediate

shaft, aligning the

marks made on disas-

sembly.

13 14

Install

the U-joint pinch bolt.

Install

the U-joint boot.

equipped) the nut from the end hose

drivebelts.

Disconnect both hoses from the pump. open hose ends to prevent contami-

6

Cap

all

nation.

Loosen the two lower pump mounting fasteners, a bolt and a stud nut, disconnect the drivebelt, then remove the fasteners. 8 To remove the pump, move it rearward to clear the mounting bracket then remove the bracket. Then rotate the pump clockwise 7

the

pump

pulley faces toward the rear of

the vehicle and pull the

pump up and

out.

V6 models

fittings.

12

(if

pump

3 Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. 4 Disconnect the pump return hose and drain the fluid from the pump into a container. While the pump is draining, remove the 5 right side splash shield that protects the

until

steering equipped models,

lines.

them

the drivebelt adjustment bolt

(early

the pilot that aligns the crosstighten

.

Remove

connected the same way. Remove the pinch bolt from the U-joint. Lower the cross-

is

.

Removal

Refer to

illustrations 17.10, 17.

Open

9

the

hood

and

13 and 17.16

remove

the

Four-cylinder models

serpentine drive belt (see Chapter

Refer to

10 Unbolt the power steering pump filler tube from the alternator bracket (see illustration). Remove the hose clamp and detach the filler tube from the pump.

1

illustration

Open (if

7.2

the hood and disconnect the two

wires from the switch

1

air

conditioner clutch cycling

equipped).

ALTERNATOR

FILLER

1).

TUBE

DIPSTICK ASSEMBLY

ENGINE ASSEMBLY

17.10

MOUNTING BOLT

HOSE

CLAMP 17.2

To detach the power

steering

pump

its mounting bracket on 2.2L and 2.5L engine models, remove these three fasteners

from

1

2 3

Drivebelt adjustment bolt

Lower pivot bolt Mounting stud nut

POWER STEERING

PUMP

Power steering

filler

tube mounting details (V6 engine models)

7

1

1

10-11

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems may

affect the ride

and handling

of

the

vehicle. Don't mix different types of tires,

and bias belted, on the same may be seriously affected. Always try to replace tires in pairs on the same axle. However, if only one tire is being replaced, be sure it's the same size, structure and tread design as the other. Because tire pressure has a substantial effect on handling and wear, the pressure in all tires should be checked at least once a month or before any extended trips (see Chapter 1). Wheels must be replaced they're bent, dented, leak air, have elongated bolt holes, are heavily rusted, out of vertical symmetry or if the lug nuts won't stay tight. Wheel repairs by welding or peenmg aren't recommended. Tire and wheel balance is important to the overall handling, braking and performance of the vehicle. Unbalanced wheels can adversely affect handling and ride characteristics as well as tire life. Whenever a tire is installed on a wheel, the tire and wheel should be balanced by a shop with the such as

radials

vehicle; handling

it

17.13 These

To detach the front side of the pump on V6 engine models, reach through the access holes in the pulley with a deep socket and remove the two mounting

components must be

17.16

disconnected from the rear side of the pump on V6 engine models Fluid return

1

fitting to

2 3

the

hose (follow the metal hose clamp)

bolts (the lower bolt

Fluid pressure line flare nut

Raise the vehicle and support

securely

it

on jackstands. Detach the exhaust pipe from the 12 manifold (see Chapter 4). Push the pipe toward the driver's side of the vehicle to provide removal clearance for the pump. Place a drain pan beneath the vehicle to 13 catch dripping fluid. Disconnect the hose from the fluid return fitting (see illustration) and let the fluid drain into the pan. 14 While the fluid drains, disconnect the pressure fitting from the pump (see illus-

Remove

15

the nut that secures the

the

out.

Using a deep socket, reach through the

16

holes

in

the

the reservoir; add

fluid level in

up to the proper Chapter 1 if necessary). Start the engine and slowly turn the 3 steering wheel several times from left to right and back again. Do not turn the wheel fully it

level (see

proper equipment.

from lock to lock.

Check the

20

topping it up as necessary until it remains steady and no more bubbles appear in the reservoir.

4

19

fluid level,

Wheels and

tires

-

pump

pulley

and remove the two

pump

bolts which secure the front of the

Front end alignment information

-

general

A front end alignment refers to the adjustments made to the front wheels so they're in proper angular relationship to the suspension and the ground. Front wheels that are out of proper alignment not only

general

pump

bracket (see illustration 17.13). Unbolt the bracket from the engine and take it

Check the

the specified fluid to bring

information

tration 17.13).

to

bolt)

Support bracket nut 2

1

hidden beneath the

is

upper

affect steering control, but also increase tire

Refer to

wear. The front end adjustments normally

illustration 19.

All vehicles covered by this manual are equipped with metric-size fiberglass or steelbelted radial tires (see illustration). The

installation of different size or other

type

required are

camber and

toe-in.

Getting the proper front wheel alignment is a very exacting process in which complicated and expensive machines are necessary

tires

to

the mounting plate (see illustration).

Lower the pump away from the engine. Pass it between the suspension crossmember and the exhaust pipe tunnel in the

METRIC TIRE SIZES

1

floorpan, then take

out.

it

Installation is the reverse of removal.

18

2.2L and 2.5L engine models, tab on the mounting bracket left

front

O-rings

mounting

when you

pump. Don't

/

TIRE TYPE P-PASSENGER T-TEMPORARY

C-COMMERCIAL

Installation make

On

sure the

use new

attach the hoses to the

ETC

hole.

Be sure

to

RIM DIAMETER [ (INCHES)

(SECTION HEIGHT) (SECTION WIDTH)

13 14 15

(MILLIMETERS)

the lower

\

ASPECT RATIO

SECTION WIDTH 185 195 205

is in

8Q R 13

/

70 75 80

CONSTRUCTION TYPE R-RADIAL B-BIAS - BELTED D-DIAGONAL (BIAS)

tighten the fasteners until you've

adjusted the belt tension.

19

Adjust the belt to the proper tension

and tighten the fasteners.

(see Chapter

1)

20

pump

Fill

the

(see Chapter 21

10

with the specified fluid

1).

Start the engine, bleed the air from the

system (see Section

18)

and check the

fluid

level.

18

Power

1

The power steering system must be

steering system

-

bleeding 19.1

bled whenever a

line is

disconnected.

A

Metric

Section width

tire size

B

code

Section height

10-12

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

Because of this, you should have a technician with the proper equipment perform these tasks. We will, however, use this space to give you a basic idea of what's involved with front end alignment so you can better understand the process and deal intelligently with the shop that does the work. to perform the job properly.

Toe-in is the turning in of the front wheels. The purpose of a toe specification is to ensure parallel rolling of the front wheels. In

a vehicle with zero toe-in, the distance front edges of the wheels will be

between the

the

same as

edges

the distance between the rear The actual amount of

of the wheels.

The amount

is

negative

in

degrees from

(-).

vertical

-

of

this

tilt is measured measurement is

wear

camber angle. This angle affects amount of tire tread contacting the road and compensates for changes in the suspension geometry when the vehicle is

improperly by making them scrub against the

cornering or traveling over an undulating

road surface.

surface.

toe-in

is

Toe-in

normally only a fraction of an inch. controlled by the is

adjustment

positions of the tie-rod ends on the tie-rods.

Incorrect toe-in

Camber from

vertical

the vehicle. top, the

When

is

will

the

cause the

tilting

tires to

of the front

when viewed from

When

camber

the wheels

the wheels

is tilt

wheels

the front of

tilt

out at the

said to be positive in

at the top the

called the

the

(+).

camber

Caster

is

the

tilting

of the top of the front

A

tilt

and a

tilt

steering axis from vertical. rear front

is

positive caster is

negative

caster.

adjustable on these vehicles.

toward the toward the Caster isn't

1

11-1

Chapter

Body

1 1

Contents Section

Body repair - major damage Body repair - minor damage Body - maintenance Bumpers - removal and installation Center console - removal and installation Cowl cover - removal and installation Dashboard panels - removal and installation Door - removal, installation and adjustment Door latch, lock cylinder and outside handle

Section

6 5 2 13 19 26 22 15 -

Front fender

removal and

Coupe and and later)

to

remove

components of the airbag system, the system should be disarmed. To do this, perform the following steps: Off.

positive cable. Wait two minutes for the

module backup power supply be depleted.

electronic

To enable the system the

ignition

switch to the Off

position. b)

Connect the positive battery cable then connect the negative cable.

first,

These models feature a "unibody" layout, using a floor pan with front and rear frame side rails which support the body components, front and rear suspension systems and other mechanical components. Certain

2

Body

components

vulnerable to accident

are

particularly

damage and can be

unbolted and repaired or replaced. Among these parts are the body moldings, bumpers,

1

The condition

of your vehicle's

body

is

it.

It's

much more damaged

a neglected or

body than is to repair mechanical components. The hidden areas of the body, such as the wheel wells, the frame and the engine compartment, are equally important, it

although they don't require as frequent attention as the rest of the body. 2

Once

a year, or every

1

2,000 miles,

it's

a

good idea to have the underside of the body steam cleaned. All traces of dirt and oil will be removed and the area can then be inspected carefully

for

damaged brake lines, wires, damaged cables and

rust,

frayed electrical

problems. The front suspension should be greased after completion of this job. At the same time, clean the engine and 3 the engine compartment with a steam

components

cleaner or water-soluble degreaser.

allowing rust to set

of the do-it-yourselfer are included

in

4

in.

If

rust

is

found, clean

this chapter.

down

Although all models are very similar, some procedures may differ somewhat from one body family to another. The body family

paint.

5

a week.

Wet

the vehicle thoroughly to soften

designations are as follows:

the

then

wash

Town and Dodge 400 (1988 and

Chrysler LeBaron, earlier)

Chrysler

E

Class,

New

Dodge 600 (1988 and

H

the chrome,

-

maintenance

so use

it

Chrysler LeBaron

Yorker, earlier)

GTS and

Dodge Lancer four-door models (1989 and earlier)

3

Vinyl trim

Don't clean vinyl trim with detergents, caustic soap or petroleum-based cleaners.

soap and water works

Plain soft

brush to clean

Wash

dirt that

just fine, with a

may be

ingrained.

the vinyl as frequently as the rest of the

vehicle. After cleaning, application of a high-

quality rubber

and

vinyl protectant will

help

prevent oxidation and cracks. The protectant

can also be applied to weatherstnpping, vacuum lines and rubber hoses, which often fail as a result of chemical degradation, and to the tires.

to the bare metal

and apply an

anti-rust

The body should be washed about once dirt,

and plenty surplus

down

with a soft sponge soapy water. If the not washed off very carefully, it

of clean

dirt is

4

Upholstery and carpets

-

maintenance 1

Every three months remove the carpets

mats and clean the interior of the vehicle (more frequently if necessary). Vacuum the upholstery and carpets to remove loose dirt and dust. Leather upholstery requires special 2 care. Stains should be removed with warm water and a very mild soap solution. Use a or

scope

E

of

other

hood and trunk lids and all glass. Only general body maintenance practices and body panel repair procedures within the the

Country,

part

that the cleaner also

very important, because the resale value

The wheel wells should be given close attention, since undercoating can peel away and stones and dirt thrown up by the tires can cause the paint to chip and flake,

CIV

from any of the vehicle's

remember

maintenance

-

difficult to repair

Detach the cable from the negative terminal, then detach the

Turn

4

3 8

sparingly.

depends a great deal on

Turn the ignition switch to battery

a)

1

27 23 20

column or other

steering wheel, steering

to

rust

plated parts,

removes

b)

24

grille

Warning: On models so equipped, whenever

a)

7

21

25

convertible (1987

the vicinity of the front grille/bumper,

9

-

Radiator

Chrysler LeBaron

in

1

10

removal and installation - removal and installation Seats - removal and installation Steering column cover - removal and installation Trunk lid - removal, installation and adjustment Upholstery and carpets - maintenance Vinyl trim - maintenance Windshield and fixed glass - replacement Mirrors

16 14 17 18

General information

won\ing

12

installation

General information Hood latch and cable - removal and installation Hood - removal, installation and adjustment Hinges and locks - maintenance Instrument cluster bezel - removal and installation

removal

and installation Door trim panel - removal and installation Door window glass - removal, installation and adjustment Door window regulator - removal and installation Engine dnvebelt and wheelhouse splash shields - removal and installation

-

it

can wear down the paint. 6 Spots of tar or asphalt thrown up from the road should be removed with a cloth soaked in solvent. 7 Once every six months, wax the body and chrome trim. If a chrome cleaner is used

damp cloth to remove the soap, then wipe again with a dry cloth. Never use alcohol, gasoline, nail polish remover or clean,

11

thinner to clean leather upholstery.

3

After cleaning, regularly treat leather

upholstery with a leather wax. Never use car

wax on

leather upholstery.

4

areas where the

is

In

interior of

the vehicle

subject to bright sunlight, cover leather

seats with a sheet

if

the vehicle

out for any length of time.

is

to

be

left

.

These photos

damage

method of repairing simple dents. They are intended to supplement Body repair - minor Chapter and should not be used as the sole instructions for body repair on these vehicles.

illustrate a

in this

MMBHyi

1

If

you can't access the backside of the body panel to hammer

out the dent, pull it out with a slide-hammer-type dent puller. In the deepest portion of the dent or along the crease line, drill or punch hole(s) at least one inch apart .

.

... then screw the slide-hammer into the hole and operate it. Tap with a hammer near the edge of the dent to help 'pop' the metal back to its original shape When you're finished, the dent area should be close to its original contour and about 1/8-inch

2

below the surface of the surrounding metal

3 Using coarse-grit sandpaper, remove the paint down to the bare metal. Hand sanding works fine, but the disc sander shown here makes the job faster. Use finer (about 320-grit) sandpaper to feather-edge the paint at least one inch around the dent area

4

When the

paint

is

removed, touch

will

probably be more

the metal is straight. Hammer down the high spots or raise the low spots as necessary. Clean the repair area with wax/silicone remover

helpful than sight for telling

if

—

5 Following label instructions, mix up a batch of plastic filler and hardener. The ratio of filler to hardener is critical, and, if you mix it incorrectly, it will either not cure properly or cure too quickly (you won't have time to file and sand it into shape)

6 Working quickly so the filler doesn't harden, use a plastic applicator to press the body filler firmly into the metal, assuring bonds completely. Work the filler until it matches the original contour and is slightly above the surrounding metal

it

7

Let the

fingernail.

Use

harden until you can just dent it with your body file or Surform tool (shown here) to roughshape the filler

filler

a

Use coarse-grit sandpaper and a sanding board or block to work the filler down until it's smooth and even. Work down to finer grits of sandpaper - always using a board or block ending 8

-

up with 360 or 400

9 the

You shouldn't be able filler

to feel

any ridge

at the transition

from

to the bare metal or from the bare metal to the old paint.

As soon as the

mask

is flat and uniform, remove the dust and the adjacent panels or trim pieces

repair off

The primer

help reveal imperfections or scratches. Fill these with glazing compound. Follow the label instructions and sand it with 360 or 400-grit sandpaper until it's smooth. Repeat the glazing, sanding and respraying until the primer reveals a perfectly smooth surface 11

will

grit

10 Apply several layers of primer to the area. Don't spray the primer on too heavy, so it sags or runs, and make sure each coat is dry before you spray on the next one. A professional-type spray gun is being used here, but aerosol spray primer is available inexpensively from auto parts stores

sandpaper (400 or 600grit) to remove the primer overspray. Clean the area with water and allow it to dry. Use a tack rag to remove any dust, then apply 12

Finish

sand the primer with very

fine

the finish coat. Don't attempt to rub out or wax the repair area until the paint has dried completely (at least two weeks)

1

11-4

Chapter pulling

Body

5

repair

minor damage

-

the scratch

is

and does not

penetrate to the metal of the body, repair is very simple. Lightly rub the scratched area with a fine rubbing

compound

loose paint and

up wax. Rinse the area

to

remove

with clean water.

Apply touch-up paint to the scratch, using a small brush. Continue to apply thin layers of paint until the surface of the paint in

2

the scratch is level with the surrounding paint. Allow the new paint at least two weeks to harden, then blend it into the surrounding paint by rubbing with a very fine rubbing

compound.

Finally,

apply a coat of

wax

to the

scratch area. If the scratch has penetrated the paint and exposed the metal of the body, causing

3

the metal to rust, a different repair technique is

required.

Remove

all

loose rust from the

bottom of the scratch with a pocket knife, then apply rust inhibiting paint to prevent the formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber or nylon applicator, coat the scratched area

with glaze-type

required, the

filler. If

filler

can

be mixed with thinner to provide a very thin paste, which is ideal for filling narrow scratches. Before the glaze filler in the scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth cotton cloth around the tip of a finger. Dip the cloth in thinner and then quickly wipe it along the surface of the scratch. This will ensure that the surface of the

of the

screws

of repair

damaged

the removal

is

area and from an

inch or so of the surrounding metal. This

superficial

built

The next stage

of paint from the

Repair of scratches •

If

on the protruding heads

with locking pliers.

7

1

Body

1 1

slightly hollow.

filler is

The scratch can now be painted over as described earlier in this section.

easily

done

is

with a wire brush or sanding disk

in a drill motor, although it can be done just as effectively by hand with sandpaper. To complete the preparation for filling, score the surface of the bare metal with a screwdriver or the tang of a file or drill small holes in the affected area. This will provide a good grip for the filler material. To complete the repair, see the section on filling and painting.

Repair of rust holes or gashes 8

Remove

all

paint from the affected area

and from an inch or so

of the surrounding

metal using a sanding disk or wire brush mounted in a drill motor. If these are not available, a few sheets of sandpaper will do the job just as effectively. With the paint removed, you will be able 9 determine the severity of the corrosion and to decide whether to replace the whole panel, if possible, or repair the affected area. New body panels are not as expensive as most people think and it is often quicker to install a new panel than to repair large areas of rust. 1 Remove all trim pieces from the affected area except those which will act as a guide to the original shape of the damaged body, such as headlight shells, etc. Using metal snips or a hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and any other metal that is badly affected by rust. Hammer the edges of the hole on the inside to create a slight depression for the

filler

material.

Wire brush the affected area to remove the powdery rust from the surface of the metal. If the back of the rusted area is acces1

Repair of dents See photo sequence 4

When

repairing dents, the

sible, treat first

job

is

to

is as shape. There is no point in trying to restore the original shape completely as the metal in the damaged area will have stretched on impact

pull

the dent out

until

close as possible to

the affected area

its

original

and cannot be restored contours.

It

is

to

its

original

better to bring the level of the

dent up to a point which is about 1/8-inch below the level of the surrounding metal. In cases where the dent Is very shallow, it is not worth trying to pull it out at all. 5 If the back side of the dent is accessible, it can be hammered out gently from behind using a soft-face hammer. While doing this, hold a block of wood firmly against the opposite side of the metal to absorb the hammer blows and prevent the metal from If

the dent

is in

which has double

makes

it

with rust inhibiting paint.

the hole with wire mesh.

Once

blocked off, the affected area can be filled and painted. See the following subsection on filling and 13

the

hole

is

painting.

Filling 14

and painting

Many types

of

body

but generally speaking,

fillers

are available,

body

repair kits

paste and a tube of resin hardener are best for this type of repair work. A wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will be necessary for imparting a smooth and contoured finish to the surface of the filler

which contain

filler

Mix up a small amount of filler on a clean piece of wood or cardboard (use the hardener sparingly). Follow the manufacon the package, instructions turer's material.

being stretched.

6

it

Before filling is done, block the hole in some way. This can be done with sheet metal riveted or screwed into place, or by stuffing 12

a section of the body

layers, or

some

other factor

inaccessible from behind, a different

technique is required. Drill several small holes through the metal inside the damaged area, particularly in the deeper sections. Screw long, self tapping screws into the holes just enough for them to get a good grip in the metal. Now the dent can be pulled out by

otherwise the

filler will

set incorrectly.

15 Using the applicator, paste to the prepared area. cator across the surface achieve the desired contour filler surface. As soon as

apply the

Draw the of the

filler

appli-

filler

to

and to level the a contour that

original one is achieved, stop working the paste. If you continue, the paste will begin to stick to the applicator. Continue to add thin layers of paste at 20-

approximates the

minute intervals just

until

the level of the

filler is

above the surrounding metal.

16 Once the filler has hardened, the excess can be removed with a body file. From then on, progressively finer grades of sandpaper should be used, starting with a 180-grit paper and finishing with 600-grit wet-or-dry paper. Always wrap the sandpaper around a flat rubber or wooden block, otherwise the surface of the filler will not be completely flat. During the sanding of the filler surface, the wet-or-dry paper should be periodically rinsed in water. This will ensure that a very smooth finish is produced in the final stage. 17 At this point, the repair area should be surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in turn should be encircled by the finely feathered edge of good paint. Rinse the repair area with clean water until all of the dust produced by the sanding operation is gone.

18

Spray the entire area with a light coat of primer. This will reveal any imperfections in the surface of the

filler.

Repair the imperfec-

paste or glaze filler and once more smooth the surface with sandpaper. Repeat this spray-and-repair procedure until you are satisfied that the

tions with fresh

filler

and the feathered edge of the paint are perfect. Rinse the area with clean water and allow it to dry completely. 19 The repair area is now ready for painting. Spray painting must be carried out in a warm, dry, windless and dust free atmosphere. These conditions can be created if you have access to a large indoor work area, but if you are forced to work in the open, you will have to pick the day very carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing the floor in the work area with water will help settle the dust which would otherwise be in the air. If the repair area is confined to one body panel, mask off the surrounding panels. surface of the

This

will

filler

help minimize the effects of a slight

mismatch

in

paint color. Trim pieces such as

chrome strips, door handles, etc., will also need to be masked off or removed. Use masking tape and several thicknesses of newspaper for the masking operations. 20 Before spraying, shake the paint can thoroughly, then spray a test area until the spray painting technique is mastered. Cover

the repair area with a thick coat of primer. The thickness should be built up using several thin layers of primer rather than one thick one. Using 600-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper, rub down the surface of the

primer until it is very smooth. While doing this, the work area should be thoroughly rinsed with water and the wet-or-dry sandpaper periodically rinsed as well. Allow the primer to dry before spraying additional coats. 21 Spray on the top coat, again building up the thickness by using several thin layers of paint. Begin spraying in the center of the

1

Chapter

11-5

Body

11

and then, using a circular motion, work out until the whole repair area and about two inches of the surrounding original paint is covered. Remove all masking material 10 to 15 minutes after spraying on repair area

the

final

coat of paint. Allow the

two weeks

least fine

rubbing

the

new

new

to harden, then

compound

paint at

use a very edges of

to blend the

paint into the existing paint. Finally,

apply a coat of wax.

99 major damage

6

Body

repair

1

Major

damage must be

-

9.2

repaired by an

auto body shop specifically equipped to perform unibody repairs. These shops have the specialized equipment required to

do the

job properly.

2

If

the

damage

must be checked

is

extensive, the

body

proper alignment or the

for

may be

vehicle's handling characteristics

Use a marking pen to outline the hinge plate and bolt heads

Removal and installation 1 Use blankets or pads to cover the cowl area of the body and the fenders. This will protect the body and paint as the hood is

12

lifted off.

Scribe alignment marks around the bolt

adversely affected and other components may wear at an accelerated rate.

2

3

Due to the fact that all of the major body components (hood, fenders, etc.) are

installation (a

separate and replaceable units, any seriously

work for this) (see illustration). Disconnect or wire 3 any cables harnesses which will interfere with removal. 4 Have an assistant support the weight of

damaged components should be replaced rather than repaired.

Sometimes the compo-

nents can be found

in

specializes

in

a wrecking yard that

used vehicle components,

often at considerable savings over the cost of

new

parts.

heads also

to insure proper alignment during

permanent-type

felt-tip

marker

Hinges and locks

maintenance

-

the hood.

miles, or every three

Remove

5 6

Lift off

Installation is the reverse of removal.

7

Fore-and-aft

and

adjustment of the hood

hood

in

is

side-to-side

done by moving

relation to the hinge plate after

loosening the bolts.

lubricant.

alignment.

Replacement

of

-

the windshield and

fixed glass requires the

white lithium-base grease to prevent sticking

and wear.

10

Hood and

Refer to

the hood.

Scribe or trace a line around the entire 8 hinge plate so you can judge the amount of

Windshield and fixed glass replacement

latch assembly, as well as the

hinges, should be periodically lubricated with

latch

and cable

-

removal

installation

the hinge-to-hood or bolts

months, the hinges and latch assemblies on the doors, hood and trunk should be given a few drops of light oil or lock lubricant. The door latch strikers should also be lubricated with a thin coat of grease to reduce wear and ensure free movement. Lubricate the door and trunk locks with spray-on graphite

8

details

(see illustration).

the

Once every 3000

The hood

Hood

will

Adjustment 7

9.4

movement. Loosen the bolts or nuts and move the 9 hood into correct alignment. Move it only a little

at a time. Tighten the

and

carefully lower the

hinge bolts or nuts

hood

to

check the

illustrations 10.1

and

10.4

Warning: On airbag-equipped models, always disconnect the negative battery cable when working in the vicinity of the impact sensors to avoid the possibility of accidental deployment of the airbag, which could cause personal injury.

Latch 1 Remove the bolts, detach the latch assembly, then use a screwdriver to detach the cable end (see illustration).

2

Installation is the reverse of removal.

Cable For to the cable-latch access connection, either remove the latch (see illustration 10.1) or use a small screwdriver 3

10 Adjust the hood bumpers on the radiator support so the hood is flush with the fenders when closed (see illustration). The safety catch assembly on the hood 1 itself can also be adjusted fore-and-aft and side-to-side after loosening the bolts.

WONT

REINFORCEMENT

acmm

PLATE

PANEL

use of special fastand some

setting adhesive/caulk materials

specialized tools and techniques.

operations should be

left

These

to a dealer service

department or a shop specializing

in

glass

work.

11 9

Hood

-

removal, installation and

adjustment and 9. 10 Note: The hood is heavy and somewhat awkward to remove and install - at least two

Refer to

illustrations 9.2, 9.4

people should perform

this

procedure.

9.10 Adjust the the hood

hood height by screwing bumpers in or out

10.1

Hood

latch

and cable

details

!

11-6

Chapter

1 1

Body

INSTRUMENT PANEL

LATCH GRILLE

PANEL

ENGINE COMPARTMENT DASH PANEL GRILLE

PANEL

HOC©

MOULDING RELEASE

CABLE

10.4

Hood

release cable and handle attachment details

to pry out the push-in fasteners

and detach

the black plastic latch cover.

4 In the passenger compartment, remove the screws and detach the hood release cable and handle assembly (see illustration). Under the dash, remove the cable 5 grommet from the firewall. Connect a string or piece of wire to the 6 engine compartment end of the cable, then

detach the cable and pull it through the firewall into the passenger compartment. 7 Connect the string ort wire to the new cable and pull it through the firewall into the

engine compartment. 8 The remainder of installation

is

11.1 Typical earlier

Remove

the screws retaining the

grille

Push down on the top of the bumper cover for clearance, then push the grille down and pull out to detach it. Installation is the reverse of removal. 5 4

grille -

12

5 6

Installation

.

'

Tighten

is

illustrations 11.1

Front fender

Refer to

and

1

1.3

Warning: On airbag-equipped models, always disconnect the negative battery cable when working in the vicinity of the impact sensors to avoid the possibility of accidental deployment of the airbag, which could cause personal injury.

Early models Open the hood, remove 1 screws, then detach the return springs and remove the grille (see illustration). Installation is the reverse of removal. 2 the retaining

bolts

and screws

securely.

-

removal and

13

Bumpers

-

removal and

installation

Refer to

illustration 12.3

Warning: On airbag-equipped models, always disconnect the negative battery cable when working in the vicinity of the impact sensors to avoid the possibility of accidental deployment of the airbag, which could cause personal injury. 1 Raise the vehicle, support

it securely on jackstands and remove the front wheel. Disconnect the antenna and all light 2 bulb wiring harness connectors and other components that would interfere with fender

removal.

3

Remove

the fender mounting bolts and

nuts (see illustration).

4

Detach the fender.

It's

a good idea to

illustrations

13.4a

and 13.4b

Warning: On airbag-equipped models, always disconnect the negative battery cable when working in the vicinity of the impact sensors to avoid the possibility of accidental deployment of the airbag, which could cause personal injury. Detach the bumper cover. 1 Disconnect any wiring or other compo2 nents that would interfere with bumper removal.

Support the bumper with a jack or have an assistant support the bumper as the bolts are removed. 4 Remove the mounting bolts and detach 3

the

bumper (see

illustrations).

FRONT FENDER

FRONT BUMPER GRILLE

body

the reverse of removal. nuts,

all

removal and

installation

Refer to

to the surrounding

panels.

installation

Radiator

damage

prevent

to the header (see illustration).

the

reverse of removal.

11

details

have an assistant support the fender while it's being moved away from the vehicle to

Later models 3

model radiator

FRONT SUSPENSION

AND HEADLAMP

STRUT TOWER

MOUNTING ASSEMBLY

FASCIA J-NUT

J-NUTS

GRILLE ASSEMBLY

RADIATOR CLOSURE PANEL 1 1 .3

Typical later model LeBaron radiator grille details

LOWER FRONT FENDER BRACE

12.3 Front fender details

ENERGY ABSORBING UNIT

FRONT FASCIA REINFORCEMENT

13.4a Typical later model front

bumper

details

i

.

Chapter

11

11-7

Body

*EAR FASCIA

SUPPOtT FASCIA

•EINFCWCEMENT

13.4b Typical later model rear

bumper

details

14.2a

Remove

the screws, pull the door lift the bezel off

handle out,

.

then use a screwdriver to detach any electrical connectors

14.2b

.

.

.

Installation is the reverse of removal.

5 6

Tighten the mounting bolts securely.

7

Install

the

components

14

.

bumper cover and any other

that

were removed.

Door trim panel

removal and

installation

Refer to 14.8a 1

illustrations 14.2a, 14.2b. 14.5, 14.6,

and 14.8b

Disconnect the negative cable from the

battery.

Remove

door trim panel retaining screws and door pull/armrest assemblies 2

all

(see illustrations).

14.5 Pry the clips at the

comer free,

pull

14.6 Pull the watershield off very

out sharply on the panel to detach it from the door, then lift it up and off the door

carefully,

so

14.8a Place the trim panel

14.8b

then use the heel of your hand to seat the clips

it

won't be torn or distorted

On manual window models, remove the 3 window crank. On power window models, remove the screw, pry out the control switch assembly and unplug it. 4 Insert a putty knife between the trim panel and the door and disengage the retaining clips. Work around the outer edge until

the panel

Once

is free.

of the clips are disengaged, detach the trim panel, unplug any wire harness connectors and remove the trim panel from the vehicle (see illustration). For access to the inner door, carefully 6 peel back the plastic watershield (see illus-

5

all

tration).

door panel, be sure to reinstall any clips in the panel which may have come out during the removal procedure and remain in the door itself. Plug in the wire harness connectors and 8 place the panel in position in the door (see illustration). Press the trim panel into place until the clips are seated (see illustration). Install the armrest/door pulls and the 9 window switch or crank. Re-connect the 7

Prior to installation of the

in

position

.

.

.

FRONT

DOOR

FRONT DOOR HINGE PILLAR

battery negative cable.

15

Door

-

11

removal, installation and

adjustment HINGE PINS

Refer to illustrations 15.3a and 15.3b 1 Remove the door trim panel. Disconnect any wire harness connectors and push them through the door opening so they won't interfere with door removal.

WELDED HINGE HALF 15.3a Typical front door hinge details

Chapter

11-8

^

B-PILLAR

Body

1 1

HINGE

Door

16

PINS

and removal and

latch, lock cylinder

outside handle

-

installation

Refer to illustrations 16.2a, 16.2b, 16.3, 16.7, 16.8, 16.10a and 16.10b

Latch Close

1

the

remove the door (see Section

WELDED

and watershield

1 4).

Disconnect the

2

HINGE HALFS

window completely and trim panel

link

rods from the latch

(see illustrations). 3 Remove the three Torx-head mounting

(see illustration). It may be necessary to use an impact-type screwdriver to loosen them. 4 Remove the latch from the door. 5 Place the latch in position and install the screws. Tighten the screws securely. Connect the link rods to the latch. 6 7 Check the door to make sure it closes

screws

15.3b Rear door hinge details

2 Place a jack under the door or have an assistant on hand to support it when the hinge bolts are removed. Note: If a jack is

a)

bending the hinges

Drive out the pins

and

carefully

lift

off

b)

the door (see illustrations).

4 5

Installation

is

slightly,

using a special

tool (take the vehicle to a dealer service

used, place a rag between it and the door to protect the door's painted surfaces. 3

Up-and-down and forward-and-backward adjustments are made by carefully

the reverse of removal.

department or auto body repair shop). The door lock striker can also be adjusted both up-and-down and sideways to provide positive engagement with the

mechanism.

Following installation of the door, check the alignment and adjust i{ if necessary as

lock

follows:

the striker as necessary.

This

is

loosening the mounting bolts

done by and moving

properly. Readjust the latch (by loosening the

screws and moving it) as necessary until the door closes smoothly (with the door handle flush with the door). After installation, loosen

the linkage adjusting screw by inserting a 5/32inclT hex-head

hole

wrench through the adjustment

the end of the door (see illustration).

in

LATCH

LOCK BUTTON

ADJUSTMENT HOLE CHILD

BELL

PROTECTION LOCK

CRANK

H

POWER DOOR

ROD

LOCK ACTUATOR

CLIPS

16.2b Rear door latch details

16.2a Typical front door latch details

LINK

16.3

A Torx-head to

tool will

be required

remove the door latch screws (arrows)

16.7 Insert a hex-head

wrench

into the

adjustment hole, loosen the screw and

move

the wrench up in the slot to remove the slack from the linkage

16.8 Typical earlier model lock cylinder details

3 1

1

Chapter outside

RELEASE

1 1

11-9

Body

ROD

RETAINER •RACKET

DOC* PANH

stripping, align the clips

place. Install the door

and press them

into

trim panel.

Hbody Lower the glass enough to provide 9 access to the glass slide and rear glass guide Insert a door glass removal tool such as 10 tool C-4867 (available at your dealer) between the glass slide and the channel retaining lip at a point about two inches from the top of the glass (see illustration).

OUTSIDE

LATCH

Push the handle

1

OUTSIDE DOOR RELEASE HANDLE

HANDLE

16.10b Rear door handle details

16.10a Typical later model outside door

handle details Loosen the adjustment screw and push it up in remove all slack from the linkage,

the slot to

then tighten

it.

C/V and E body Lower the glass enough

to

provide

access and remove the mounting nuts and

On earlier models, disconnect the link, 8 use a screwdriver to push off the retainer clip and withdraw the lock cylinder from the door (see illustration). On later models where the lock cylinder is part of the outside door handle assembly, first remove the door

handle (see below). Disconnect the link, push the retainer off with a screwdriver and

remove the lock

Front door 2

Lock cylinder

cylinder.

bolt.

Lower the window mechanism 3 completely and disengage the glass. 4 Remove the outer glass weatherstrip from the door by pushing it up from underneath and disengaging the clips. Lift the glass up and out of the door 5 toward the outside of the window opening. Install the glass by lowering it into door 6

down

from the channel. Insert the tool approximately two inches 12 from the bottom of the glass. Push the tool handle toward the glass to open the channel, then push down at the front to separate the slide from the channel, making sure the upper slide doesn't snap back into the channel. 1 Angle the front of the glass down, slide it forward to detach it from the regulator lift arm

up and out of the door. lower the glass into the door, insert the regulator arm roller into the glass

roller,

then

To

14

lift it

install,

channel, then guide front of the glass into the

weatherstripping at the front of the door.

7

into place.

10

bolts securely.

Disconnect the outside handle (remote link from the latch, remove the mounting nuts and detach the handle from the door (see illustrations). 1 Place the handle in position, attach the link and install the nuts. Tighten the nuts

it

the front of the glass to separate the slide

and seating

control)

Outside handle

toward the

15 Push the top of the glass to the rear to snap the top slide into the channel, then push down at the front to snap the bottom slide

it in the regulator mechanism. the nuts and bolts finger tight, raise the glass until it seats in the channel at the top of the door, then tighten the nuts and

Installation is the reverse of removal.

of the tool

glass to open the channel, then push at

9

Klfl

8

Install

J

Body

16

Lower the glass and seat the weather-

the

Raise the glass about four inches from

down

position.

securely. DIVISION

17

Door window glass - removal, installation and adjustment

CHANNEL

GLASS RUN WEATHERSTRIP

FIXED GLASS

OR PlUG

Refer to 1

illustrations 17.10,

Remove

1

7.22

and

1

7.32

GLASS

the door trim panel and water-

shield (see Section 14).

SUPPORT BRACKET

END SEAL RUN

DOOR GLASS RUN WtATHERSTRIP

END SEAL DRIVE

ARM

GLASS

ATTACHMENT DIVISION BRACKETS

11

FLEX DRIVE

REGULATOR

17.10

Use the special

tool to separate the

glass from the channel

17.22 C/V and E

body rear door window glass

details

11-10

Chapter

11

Body remove the glass-to-drive arm bolt. On H body models, prop the glass one inch from the full up position.

On all models, drill out the rivets securing 3 the regulator to the door (see illustration).

REMOTE

CONTROL HOUSING

Rotate the regulator and flex drive it from the door through the access hole. Installation is the reverse of removal. 5 Make sure the flex drive is clean and well lubricated before installation. Tighten the nuts and screws evenly to prevent the possi-

4

assembly and withdraw

REMOTE

U-NUT

CONTROL BEZEL

SPACER

bility

DIVISION

BAR BRACKET

of binding.

Gear-type regulator C/V and E body

DOWN

STOP BUMPER

HANDLE

6

ASSEMBLY

Prop the window glass

in

the

up

fully

position.

DOWN

MANUAL REGULATOR

STOP

7

ASSEMBLY

Drill

regulator

17.32

H body

rear door

window glass

details

Loosen the bolts/nuts holding the glass and guide hook mount to the top of the door frame. 17

the roller out of the

windows).

the

lift it

20

channel (manual

Detach the glass from the lift plate and up and out of the door window opening. Installation is the reverse of removal.

32

lift

19

lift

a door glass removal tool such as tool C-4867 (available at your dealer) between the glass slide and the division bar channel and pry the glass out of the glass run. 31 Lower the glass down into the door.

Remove

18

30

the nuts holding the glass to

plate.

Remove

the two mounting screws on

Rear door C/V and E body

33 Remove the beltline screw through the access hole in the inner panel. 34 Lift the glass up and remove it from the

22

(see illustration).

Remove the end seals from the door. Remove the fixed vent window support

bracket and detach the division channel-todoor inner panel brackets (see illustration).

23 24

Remove the door glass run weatherstrip. Remove the screw from the top of the

division channel

25

Detach the

and remove the fixed glass. and remove the outside

35 Installation is the reverse of removal. On manual regulator models, secure the regulator to the door with rivets or 1/4-20 screws and nuts.

Door window regulator and installation

and connecting the arm to the

full

up

1

Remove

-

removal

plate.

the rivets, slide the regulator off the glass

position.

Refer to 2

place of rivets to secure the regulator to the door. Rotate the regulator and

through the opening

in

lift

the door trim panel and water-

out

Refer to

illustration 18.

14

Raise the glass to the within

place.

in

one inch

door opening, then tape

On power window models,

in

Remove

the regulator bolts and detach arm roller from the glass. Rotate the regulator and lift it out through the opening in

the

illustration 18.3

the

glass attachment to the door access hole and

lift

the door (see illustration).

15

MIRROR ASSEMBLY

Installation is the reverse of removal.

REGULATOR ASSEMBLY

(FLEX DRIVE)

regulator installation details

it

disconnect

the negative battery cable.

1 4).

On C/V aad E body models, move

POWER WINDOW REGULATOR

window

it

the door.

CHANNEL

18.3 Typical flex drive

lift

channel and remove it from the door. 12 Installation is the reverse of removal. Short 1/4-20 screws and nuts can be used in

13

Flex drive-type regulator

29 Remove the regulator arm bolt (power windows) or drill out the three rivets and slide

FRONT DOOR GLASS

in position,

9 Raise the glass to within 1/2-inch of the top of the door opening and tape it in place. 10 On manual regulator models, disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the regulator-to-arm bolt and unplug the motor harness connector. Drill out the rivets, detach the regulator and withdraw it from the door. 11 On manual regulator models, drill out

14

Brace the glass 1/4-inch from the

lift

it

Hbody

of the top of the

shield (see Section

Hbody

the regulator by placing

J body

18

26 Raise the division channel, door glass and drive arm assembly, rotate it 90-degrees and lift it out through the glass opening. 27 Installation is the reverse or removal.

28

door.

clips

weatherstripping.

Install

Insert

the division bar and detach the lower bracket

21

detach the

rivets,

the door.

8 stabilizers

out the retaining

arm and remove the regulator from

18.14 Later model LeBaron gear type regulator details

1

Chapter CENTER

ARM

1 1

Body

11-11

R

CONSOLE

BRACKET

MANUAL TRANS

BRACKE

AUTO TRANS. 19.3 C/V

and E body console

5

19

Center console

removal and

6

illustrations 19.3, 19.10,

19.23

On manual

transaxles,

unscrew the

and

Warning: On airbag-equipped models, always disconnect the negative battery cable when working in the vicinity of the instrument panel or steering column to avoid the possi-

transaxles,

it

may be

necessary to disconnect the shift cable to allow clearance so the console can be removed. 7

Remove

8

Installation

the console. is

the reverse of removal.

Adjust the automatic transaxle

if

so that the engine starts only

necessary, in

Park or

Neutral.

Hbody

C/V and E body

9 10

4

Lift

access

the to

console up sufficiently for the wiring and unplug the

connectors.

it.

Remove the automatic transaxle bezel Remove the two screws, lift up

and remove the shifter knob. Loosen the hex head bolt on the right side of the shifter, slide the selector off the bracket and remove the cable. Remove the two mounting screws, lift the bezel up from the front, unplug the wiring harness and remove the bezel from the

Remove

16

follows.

Pry out the two screw covers from the

12 Remove the cubby box by opening the door, removing the mounting screw, then detach the box from the console. 13 Remove the two Torx-head screws, pull the navigator housing out and then unplug

STORAGE BIN MAT

the manual transaxle bezel as

Unscrew the

remove the nut and

shifter

knob and

up on the front of the bezel, unplug the electncal connector and lift the bezel off. 17 Unplug the rear console electncal ring. Lift

connector.

18

Remove

the console nuts and bolts (see

illustration 19.10). Slide the console to the rear

19

INSTRUMENT PANE

cassette storage unit straight

as follows.

the carpet panels from the

rear of the console.

tration).

15

remove

Remove

equipped). illus-

Pull the

console.

sides of the console (see illustration).

the mounting screws (see

14

out to

shift lever in Neutral.

Pry out the retainers and remove the carpet from both sides of the console (if

Remove

details

the electrical connector and detach the

Place the

2

1

H body console

housing.

On automatic

of accidental deployment of the airbag, which could cause personal injury. 1 Disconnect the negative battery cable.

bility

3

shift

knob.

installation

Refer to 19.33

19.10

details

and remove

Remove

it.

the three screws from the

underside of the front console and

lift

off

the

rear console.

20

Installation

Adjust the

shift

is

the reverse of removal.

mechanism as necessary.

J body Floor console 21

Move

remove the 22 23

the seats

all

the

way forward and

ashtray.

Remove the carpeted end cover. Remove the console-to-floor bracket

nuts (see illustration).

24 Move the seats to the rear. 25 Remove the storage bin mat and the screws under it. 26 Remove the screws retaining the console side cover to the instrument panel, disengage the fasteners and detach the side covers.

VIEW THROUGH RIGHT OP CONSOLE^

SIDE

PARK BRAKE

COVER

19.23 Later model LeBaron console

-

exploded view

27 Working through the side of the console, disconnect the shift indicator cable and clip from the mechanism. 28 Detach the parking brake cover. 29 Remove the center instrument panel.

11

i

11-12

Chapter ROOF PANEL

REINFORCEMENT BRACKET

Body

1 1

RETAINING TAB

•

HEAD LINING

OVERHEAD CONSOLE EYEGLASS

COMPARTMENT

Draw around the bolt heads with a marking pen so the trunk lid can be

20.3

19.33 Overhead console details

installed in the

30 Remove the mounting screws/bolts, detach the console and lift it up. 31 Unplug any electrical connectors and remove the console from the vehicle. Installation is the reverse of removal. 32

Overhead console Remove

33

Installation

Note:

the console-to-reinforcement

from the bracket and lower it sufficiently to unplug the electrical connectors, then remove it from

is

the reverse of removal.

reinstalling the trunk

6

align the

made

lid and see if proper alignment with the surrounding

After installation, close the

panels. Fore-and-aft of the

lid

and side-to-side adjust-

are controlled by the position

of the hinge bolts in the slots.

it

To adjust

loosen the hinge bolts, reposition the

lid

it,

and

retighten the bolts.

The height

of the

the vehicle.

7

35

surrounding body panels

Installation is the reverse of removal.

lid,

hinge bolt flanges with the marks

ments

Slide the console to rear, detach

When

during removal.

it's in

bracket screws (see illustration).

34

5

lid in

relation to the

when closed can be

adjusted by loosening the lock striker bolts, repositioning the striker

20

Trunk lid - removal, and adjustment

Refer to 1

of

illustration

Open

installation

21

and cover the edges the trunk compartment with pads or cloths lid

to protect the painted surfaces

when

the

Instrument cluster bezel removal and installation

Refer to

illustrations 21.3a, 21.3b,

21.3c and

flanges (see illustration).

bility

While an assistant supports it's weight, remove the hinge bolts from both sides and

4

21.3d

Warning:

On

airbag-equipped

models,

always disconnect the negative battery cable when working in the vicinity of the instrument of accidental deployment of the airbag, which could cause personal injury. 1 On column shift models, place the shift lever in Neutral.

lid off.

BEZEL

models,

ATTACHING POINTS

small pick with a bent end (available at auto

parts stores) makes the job of detaching these clips easier. Insert the tool into the gap

between the bezel and surrounding dash panel, rotate the end of the tool behind the bezel until you have a good purchase and pull out sharply to detach the clips. Work around the outer circumference until all of the clips are detached, then lift the bezel off. 4 Place the bezel in position and push it into place until any clips are seated and

the screws.

Dashboard panels

-

removal and

Warning: On airbag-equipped models, always disconnect the negative battery cable when working in the vicinity of the instrument panel or steering column to avoid the possibility

which could cause personal

injury.

Lower steering column cover Refer to 1

CLIP

of accidental deployment of the airbag,

illustration

22.3

Detach the parking brake release rod.

ATTACHING POINTS

CLUSTER BEZELBEZEL

lower the

lowest position.

lid is

panel or steering column to avoid the possi-

the trunk

it's

installation

removed. 2 Disconnect any cables or electrical connectors attached to the trunk lid that would interfere with removal. 3 Use a marking pen to make alignment marks around the hinge bolt mounting

lift

steering

position

Remove the screws and detach the 3 bezel (see illustrations). Some bezels are held in place with clips as well as screws. A

22

-

tilt

steering wheel to

install

20.3

the trunk

and retightening the

bolts.

On

2

same

ATTACHING POINTS

21.3a C/V and E body cluster bezel attachment details

CUP21 .3b Typical

H body

cluster bezel details

Chapter VENT OPENING

•REMOVE VENT

11

11-13

Body REMOVE RIGHT FRONT SCREW

21.3d This tool (available at auto parts stores) make the job of detaching any bezel clips easier - simply insert it between the bezel and the dashboard, rotate it to get a good purchase on the bezel and pull out

Glove box Refer to

21.3c Later model J body cluster details

8 the fuse panel access door.

2

Pry

3

Remove

off

the screws and detach the

cover from the dashboard (see illustration). 4 Installation is the reverse of removal.

5

On

floor shift

models, remove the floor

console (see Section 1 9). Remove the screws and push nuts, then 6 detach the silencer panels (see illustration). 7

Installation is the reverse of removal.

illustrations

Open

retainer strap

9

22.9a and 22.9b

the glovebox and detach the

Remove

(if

equipped).

the glovebox retaining screws,

detach the glovebox and remove it from the dashboard (see illustrations) 10 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Instrument panel silencers Refer to

illustration

22.6

22.3 Typical lower steering

column 22.6 Typical instrument panel silencer panel details

cover details

INSTRUMENT PANEL

GLOVE BOX

11

GLOVE BOX RETAINER

MOUNTING SCREW TIME OEIAV

RELAY

22.9a C/V and E body glovebox details

22.9b H body glovebox details

11-14

Chapter

Body

11

MIRROR WINDSHIELD

23.2 On later models, two different size Torx-head screwdrivers may be needed to remove the column cover screws

23.3

On models so

equipped, unscrew the

tilt

lever ^BUTTON

23

Steering column cover

and Refer to

-

removal

installation

illustrations

Warning:

On

Unscrew the steering column tilt lever 3 and remove the upper half of the cover (see illustration).

23.2 and 23.3

airbag-equipped

models,

always disconnect the negative battery cable when working in the vicinity of the instrument panel or steering column to avoid the possibility of accidental deployment of the airbag, which could cause personal injury. 1 Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2 Remove the screws and detach the lower half of the column cover (see illus-

24

Mirrors

-

removal and installation

Exterior 3

Refer to

illustrations 24.

1

and 24.4

4

Use a remove the

Phillips

off the

head screwdriver to

set screw, then slide the mirror

button on the windshield (see

illus-

tration).

Installation

the reverse of removal.

is

ADJUSTER CABLE OR WIRE HARNESS

door trim

the

panel

(see

14).

Remove

mirror

1

up

Remove

Section

Interior

2

tration).

MIRROR

The interior mirror fits over a button on the glass and is held in position by a screw

24.1

the screws and detach the knob and bezel (see illustration). On

power

t

mirrors,

unplug

the

electrical

connector. 5

Remove

the nuts and detach the mirror

from the door. Installation 6

is

the reverse of removal.

SILENCER SEAL

25

Engine drivebelt and wheelhouse splash shields - removal and installation

MIRROR BEZEL

illustrations 25.2a and 25.2b Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the front of the vehicle and support securely on

Refer to 1

it

jackstands.

ACCESS HOLE

SET-

COVER

SCREW

IRROR IREMOTE

with pliers or wire cutters (see illustration).

COVER

The transaxle and engine shields are held

24.4 Exterior mirror details

INNER WHEEL

FRONT FENDER

the wheel(s).

after removal. Carefully pry the fasteners out

KNOB

F,

Remove

The

wheelhouse splash shield is retained by screws and plastic (tree-type) fasteners, which generally aren't reusable 2

in

drivebelt splash

place by bolts (see

tration).

RIGHT FRONT

FRAME

RAIL

HOUSE

RUBBER

ENGINE

PLUG

DRIVE BELT SPLASH SHIELD

FRONT CROSS MEMBER USH-IN TREE TYPE

WHEELHOUSE

FASTENERS

SPLASH SHIELD 25.2a Typical wheelhouse and transaxle splash shield details

25.2b Engine drivebelt splash shield details

illus-

Chapter

1 1

Body

11-15 DASH PANEL TO HOOD SEAL

COWL COVER

PLASTIC

\

EXPANDING FASTENER''^

MM

c a

\0fL Use wire cutters as shown here

26.2

to

gently pull the center portion out of the

expanding fastener (don't cut the head off!),

then remove the fastener

DASH PANEL

After all the screws and fasteners have been removed, detach the splash shield.

3

To

4

position

a splash shield, hold

install

and

install

the screws and

it

26.3

in

new these fasteners, press the expander into place then insert the screw fully by pushing it

plastic fasteners.

in

26

Cowl cover

removal and

illustrations

with a Phillips head screwdriver.

26.2 and 26.3

Disconnect the windshield washer hoses and remove the wiper arms. Remove the 2 plastic expanding fasteners. While these look like plastic Phillips head screws, they are actually press

4

5

Installation is the reverse of removal.

in

fasteners.

Use wire first

cutters to gently pry

the screw portion, then

the expanding portion of the fastener (don't cut the head

SEAT

off!)

(see illustration). To

install

27

Seats

-

remove the

bolts at

(see illustration). Unplug any electrical connectors attached to the seat. Lift the seat from the vehicle. 3 the front

Rear

4

Installation is the reverse of removal.

Remove

the seat cushion-to-floor bolts,

push the seat belts through the cushion openings, then detach the cushion and lift

1

out and remove

the seat to the rear and

After removing the fasteners, lift up the back of the cowl cover and separate it from the rubber seal (see illustration). Remove the cover toward the windshield.

3

installation

Refer to

Cowl cover components

it

removal and installation

out (see illustration).

Refer to illustrations 27.2 and 27.5

Fold the back of the seat forward and detach the push-in fasteners holding the

Front

carpet to the seat back. Remove the seat back-to-hinge arm bolts and lift the seat back

6

1

2

Move the seat forward. Remove the seat track

REAR TRACK

out of the vehicle. nuts, then

move

7

Installation is the reverse of removal.

BRACKET

BRACKET

COVERS

BRACKET ASSEMBLY

OUTBOARD TRACK

HINGE ASSEMBLY

INBOARD TRACK

FRONT TRACK COVER 27.2 Typical front seat details

SEAT

ASSEMBLY

REAR BOLSTER

27.5 Typical rear seat details

11

Chapter

11-16

11

Notes

•u.

Body

1

12-1

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system Contents Section Airbag system

Antenna - removal and installation Battery check and maintenance Battery - removal and installation Bulb replacement Circuit breakers

-

general information

Cruise control system

-

Dual-function switch (airbag equipped models)

-

-

check 12

general information

-

general information

Fusible links

-

21

See Chapter 7B

Relays

3

Speedometer cable - removal and installation Turn signal and hazard flashers - check and replacement

24 25 17

27 6 23

general information

-

7

Turn signal/hazard warning switch (non-airbag equipped models) - check and replacement

1 -

1

20

2

4

general information

General information Headlight dimmer switch (non-airbag equipped models) and replacement Headlights - adjustment Headlight - replacement Headlight switch - removal and installation

-

Instrument cluster

26

and replacement Fuses

Ignition switch

5

description and check

Electrical troubleshooting

check and replacement - removal and installation Instrument panel - removal and installation Neutral start and back-up light switch - check and replacement Power door lock system - description and check Power window system - description and check Radio - removal and installation Rear window defogger - check and repair

22 18 See Chapter 1 See Chapter 5 15

general information

-

Section

check

9 10 19

Wiper/washer switch - check and replacement Windshield wiper motor - check and replacement Wiring diagrams - general information

8

14 13 16

28

Specifications

Light bulb types

Number

Headlight

Sealed beam-type High beam

PH4651 PH4656

Low beam Aero-type bulb High beam

9005 9006 2057

Low beam Front parking and turn signal

Center high-mounted brake light Rear stop and turn signals Rear license and side marker lights

Back-up

921

2057 168 1156

light

and

General information

all

electrical

accessories

supplied by a

is

lead/acid-type battery which

is

Chrysler

J

charged by

LeBaron coupe and - 1987 and later

convertible

the alternator.

Warning: On models so equipped, whenever working

in

the vicinity of the front grille/bumper,

steering wheel, steering

components of

column or other

the airbag system, the system

should be disarmed. To do

this,

perform the

following steps: a)

b)

Turn the ignition switch to Off. Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal, then detach the

two minutes for the module backup power supply

positive cable. Wait

electronic to

one body family

be depleted.

Turn the ignition switch to the Off

Country,

position. b)

Connect the

to another.

The body family

designations are as follows: CA/ Chrysler LeBaron,

To enable the system a)

This Chapter covers repair and service procedures for the various electrical components not associated with the engine. Information on the battery, alternator, distributor and starter motor can be found in Chapter 5. Warning: When working on the electrical system, disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery to prevent electrical shorts and/or fires. Although all models are very similar, some procedures may differ somewhat from

Town and

Dodge 400

-

1988 and

earlier

positive battery cable

first,

E

then connect the negative cable.

The electrical system is a 12-volt, negative ground type. Power for the lights

Chrysler E Class,

Dodge 600

H

New

Yorker,

1988 and earlier Chrysler GTS and Dodge Lancer four-door models - 1 989 and earlier -

2

Electrical troubleshooting

-

general information

A

typical electncal circuit consists of an

electrical

component, any switches,

relays,

motors, fuses, fusible links or circuit breakers related to the component and the winng and connectors that link the component to both the battery and the chassis. To help pinpoint an electrical circuit problem, wiring diagrams are included at the end of this Chapter. Before tackling any troublesome electrical circuit, first study the appropriate wiring diagrams to get a complete understanding of what makes up that individual circuit. Trouble spots, for instance, can often be narrowed down by noting if other components related to the circuit are operating properly.

If

several

components

or circuits

fail

12

— !

12-? r

Chapter 12 Chassis

electrical

system

at one time, chances are the problem is in a fuse or ground connection, because several

circuits are often routed

through the

same

fuse and ground connections.

problems usually stem from simple causes, such as loose or corroded connections, a blown fuse, a melted fusible link or a bad relay. Visually inspect the condition of all fuses, wires and connections Electrical

in

a problem

before troubleshooting

circuit

it.

testing instruments are going to

be use the diagrams to plan ahead of time where to make the necessary connecIf

utilized,

tions to accurately pinpoint the trouble spot.

The basic tools needed for electrical troubleshooting include a circuit tester or voltmeter (a 12-volt bulb with a set of test leads can also be used), a continuity tester (which includes a bulb, battery and set of test leads) and a jumper wire, preferably with a circuit

breaker incorporated, which can be

used to

bypass

electrical

is located under the side of the instrument panel on

left

most models

A if

check

continuity

there are breaks

a

in

is

power

in

the

done

circuit

to determine

capable

- if it's

circuit),

Voltage checks Voltage checks should be performed circuit isn't functioning prope/ly.

circuit (or if

a

Connect one

lead of a circuit tester to either the negative

battery terminal or a

known good ground.

Connect the other lead

to a connector in the being tested, preferably nearest to the battery or fuse. If the bulb of the tester lights, voltage is present, which means the part of circuit

the circuit between the connector and the battery is problem free. Continue checking the rest of the circuit

in

the

same

somewhere

Keep

mind that some circuits receive voltage only when the ignition key is in the Accessory or Run position. connection. Note:

in

One method

of finding a short in a

remove the fuse and connect a

test light or voltmeter in

There

terminals.

its

should

place to the fuse

be no

voltage

present in the circuit. Move the wiring harness from side-to-side while watching the test light.

If

the bulb

The

circuit.

same

Finding an open circuit When

diagnosing for possible open them by

circuits, it's often difficult to locate

because

sight

oxidation

or

terminal

misalignment are hidden by the connectors. Merely wiggling a connector on a sensor or in the wiring harness may correct the open circuit condition.

open

is

indicated

Remember

lights, there's

3

Fuses

Refer to

-

general information

illustrations 3. 1a, 3. 1b, 3. 1c

The

protected by a combination of fuses, circuit breakers and fusible links. The fuse block is located under the instrument panel on the left side of the dashboard, adjacent to the

column or in the glovebox behind a panel (see illustration). Some later models also have a power distribution center containing both fuses and relays located in the engine compartment (see illustrations). steering

Each a specific identified

is designed to protect and the various circuits are

of the fuses circuit,

on the fuse panel

Miniaturized fuses are

fuse block. These

compact

a

in

the

each

electrical

component

terminal tips are

Be sure

exposed in the fuse body. blown fuses with the

to replace

a short to

Perform a ground test to check whether a component is properly grounded. Disconnect the battery and connect one lead of a self-powered test light, known as a contito

employed

fuses, with blade

replacement. If an electrical component fails, always check the fuse first. A blown fuse is easily identified through the clear plastic body. Visually inspect the element for evidence of damage (see illustration). If a continuity check is called for, the blade

CIRCUIT BREAKER

Ground check

tester,

itself.

when troubleshooting a

basically electricity running from the battery, through the wires, switches, relays, fuses and

ground somewhere in that area, probably where the insulation has rubbed through. The same test can be performed on each component in the circuit, even a switch.

nuity

and 3.3

electrical circuits of the vehicle are

terminal design, allow fingertip removal and

problems may also be caused by oxidized or loose connections. Electrical troubleshooting is simple if you keep in mind that all electrical circuits are

fusible links to

bulb, motor, etc.) and to ground, where passed back to the battery. Any electrical problem is an interruption in the flow of electricity to and from the battery. it's

when an

this

circuit. Intermittent

Finding a short circuit is to

the

in

procedure can be used to test a switch by connecting the continuity tester to the switch terminals. With the switch on, the test light should come on.

When you

the time the problem can be traced to a loose

if

is

fashion.

reach a point where no voltage is present, the problem lies between that point and the last test point with voltage. Most of

-

relays

it.

ends of the to the "power" end and a good test leads to both

the test light comes on the circuit passing current properly. If the light doesn't come on, there's a break (open)

ground)

models have a power

a self-powered

continuity tester can be used to check

Connect the

later

distribution center in the engine

(light

of passing electricity properly. With the circuit off (no

Some

3.1b

compartment containing fuses and

Continuity check

components.

Before attempting to locate a problem with test instruments, use the wiring diagram(s) to decide where to make the connections.

The fuse block

3.1a

known good ground.

Connect the other lead to the wire or ground connection being tested. If the bulb lights, the ground is good. If the bulb doesn't light, the ground is no good.

HORN RELAY

TURN SIGNAL

TIME DELAY

FLASHER

RELAY

3.1c Typical fuse block component layout

^ Bad

W

>\

—fM~JP Good

3.3 The fuses used on these models can be easily checked visually to determine if they are blown (left) or operative (right)

i

7

1

Chapter 12 Chassis

electrical

12-3

system properly, an audible click can

CUT Off HtRI

•IOWN fUSJUE UNK^. CUT Off HERE

-t_

__>f

>

'^8 MAIN HARNESS

====

INSTAU ANY TIE

^

ONE INCH Of INSULATION FROM BOTH WIRES

WRAPS

MAIN UNK

4.2b Typical fusible link repair details in

The

fusible links (arrow) are located

the engine

compartment adjacent

to

5

Circuit breakers

-

recommended. Each electrical circuit needs a specific amount of protection. The amperage value of each fuse molded

is

fails,

not

body. If the replacement fuse immediately don't replace it again until the cause of into the fuse

is isolated and corrected. In most cases, the cause will be a short circuit in the wiring caused by a broken or deterio-

the problem

components such as power windows, power door locks Circuit breakers protect

and headlights. Some circuit breakers are located in the fuse box (see illustration 3.1c). On some models the circuit breaker resets itself automatically, so an electrical overload in the circuit will cause it to fail momentarily, then come back on. If the circuit doesn't come back on, check it immediately.

Once

the condition

the circuit breaker

Some

function.

rated wire.

will

circuit

breakers

corrected,

is

resume

normal

its

may have

a

button on top and must be reset manually.

Fusible links information

general

6

Relays

-

general information

Several electrical accessories Refer to

illustrations 4.2a

Some

and 4.2b

The

circuits are protected

links are

component (see relay

is

If

Although the fusible links appear to be a heavier gauge than the wires they're

appearance

is

due

to the thick

the

illustration 3.1b).

defective,

the

are several wire

as follows: a) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.

Disconnect the fusible

from the

link

wiring harness.

d)

Cut the damaged fusible link out of the wire just behind the connector. Strip the insulation back approximately Position

the connector

fusible link f)

g)

and cnmp

it

Use

rosin core solder at

new

link to

obtain a

on the new

into place.

each end of the

good connection,

Use plenty of electhcal tape around the soldered joint. No wires should be exposed,

h)

new

one.

5

Make

electrical

flasher, simply detach it connector and plug in the

sure the replacement is identical Compare the old one to the

before installing

it.

Installation is the reverse of removal.

If

Refer to

illustration

7.

7 The hazard flasher, a small canistershaped unit located in the fuse block or relay module under the dash, flashes all four turn

signals simultaneously

when

On some

activated (see

models the incorporated with the turn signal flasher into one unit (see Step 1). 8 The hazard flasher is checked just like the turn signal flasher (see Steps 2 and 3). 9 To replace the hazard flasher, pull it out of the fuse block, harness or relay module. 10 Make sure the replacement is identical to the original. Compare the old one to the new one before installing it. 1 Installation is the reverse of removal. illustration).

hazard flasher

later

unit is

Headlight dimmer switch (nonairbag equipped models) -

8

the

check and replacement

a faulty relay

is

suspected,

it

can be

Refer to

illustrations 8.2, 8.3

and 8.6

department or a repair shop. Defective relays must be replaced as a unit.

Check Remove

1

the steenng column cover.

7

Turn signal and hazard flashers check and replacement

TIME DELAY RELAY

-

a

HAZARD

WARNING FLASHER

Warning:

On

airbag-equipped

models,

always disconnect the negative battery cable when working in the vicinity of the instrument panel or steehng column to avoid the possibility

HORN RELAY

of accidental deployment of the airbag.

which could cause personal

injury.

Turn signal flasher

1-inch (see illustration). e)

its

gauges smaller than the wire

be repaired, but a new link of the same size wire can be installed. The procedure is

c)

To replace the

from

removed and tested by a dealer service

can't

b)

fuse.

4

component won't

insulation (see illustration). All fusible links

they're designed to protect. Fusible links

indicated.

operate properly.

circuit.

protecting, the

in

vehicle utilize relays to transmit current to the

by fusible used in circuits which are not ordinarily fused, such as the ignition links.

is

Hazard flasher

physically interchangeable, but only fuses of

is

new

6

information

specified

bulb

If

new one

general

correct type. Fuses of different ratings are

fuse with one of a higher or lower value than

characteristic clicking sound, a

to the original.

the battery

the proper rating should be used. Replacing a

its

both turn signals fail to blink, the problem may be due to a blown fuse, a faulty flasher unit, a broken switch or a loose or open connection. If a quick check of the fuse box indicates the turn signal fuse has blown, check the wiring for a short before installing a 3

fUSIBLE

4.2a

be heard during fail on one

the turn signals

If

faulty turn signal

STRIP

EXISTING

FROM BOTH WIRES

make

_^

____5=±i

ONE INCH Of INSULATION

operation.

side or the other and the flasher unit doesn't

\

STRIP

its

Connect the negative battery

cable. Test

the circuit for proper operation.

1 The turn signal shaped unit located

flasher, a small canisterin

the fuse block,

in

the

adjacent harness or on a relay module under the instrument panel, flashes the turn signals

(see illustration 3.1c). On later models the turn signal and hazard flasher are combined into one unit. This unit is coded yellow for

easy

identification.

2

When

the flasher unit

RELAY

7.7

On some models located

is

functioning

12

MODULE

in

the hazard flasher the relay module under the dash

is

1

12-4

Chapter 12 Chassis

electrical

system

HIGH BEAM

STEERING

WHEEL

ILol IvJIINIo

ySw

H

^r

IB

L

LOW BEAM. |

-CONNECTOR REMOVED FROM DIMMER SWITCH

I

TEST POINTS

HIGH BEAM

LOW BEAM

POSITION

POSITION

8.3 Terminal continuity guide for a typical electrical connector of

8.2

Unplug the

electrical

connector from the dimmer switch

the headlight

dimmer switch (non-airbag models)

Unplug the

2

electrical

connector from the

switch (see illustration).

IGNITION SWITCH

Use an ohmmeter to check the contibetween the switch terminals. There should be continuity between the B and H

3

nuity

STEERING

COLUMN

terminals with the switch

the high

and the B and L terminals

position

beam

in

position (see illustration).

If

in

beam

the low

there

isn't,

replace the switch.

DIMMER

Replacement

SWITCH

Remove

4

the two bolts and lower the

switch from the steering column.

Place the new switch in position and the mounting bolts finger tight. Insert an adjustment pin fabricated from

5

ACTUATOR

install

LEVER

6

a piece of wire. Push the switch to the rear to

ADJUSTMENT PIN

take up the slack 8.6

An exploded view

of a typical

dimmer switch assembly you can -

adjustment pin using a piece of coat hanger or paper

clip,

fabricate your

or use proper size

drill

own

bits

and IGNITION

MOUNTING

COLUMN

SWITCH

LUGS

illus-

Remove install

the pin, plug

in

the connector

the steering column cover.

IGNITION

SWITCH

CONTROL

ASSEMBLY

the actuator control rod,

tration).

7

STEERING

in

then tighten the bolts securely (see

9

Turn signal/hazard warning switch (non-airbag equipped models) - check and replacement

Refer to

illustrations 9.4, 9.5

The top end 1

turn signal switch

and 9. is

1

located at the

of the steering column and is operated by the multi-function control stalk. The hazard warning switch is mounted under the turn signal switch, next to the ignition key light.

TO

KEY-IN

Check

BUZZER

WIRING

2

Disconnect the negative cable from the

battery. TO SPEED CONTROL WIRING TO WINDSHIELD WIPER WIRING

9.4 Details of the steering

column

electrical connectors equipped models)

TO INTERMITTENT WIPE CONTROL MODULE

(typical

non-airbag

3

Remove

the

steering

column lower

cover.

Unplug the turn signal switch electrical connector (see illustration). 5 Use an ohmmeter or self-powered test light to check for continuity between the indicated switch connector terminals (see 4

illustration).

2 1

12-5

Chassis electrical system

Chapter 12

SWITCH CONTINUITY CHART STEERING SHAFT Left

Neutral

Right

7 and 4 7 and 8

10 and 9 10 and 8

and 5 and 9 22 and 21 10 and 8

Switch Position:

Between Between Between Between

Continuity Continuity Continuity Continuity

LOCK HOUSING

7 7

— —

21 and 23 10 and 9

COLUMN

STEERING

BEARING

Turn Signal Switch

Hazard Warning Switch Switch Position.

On

Oft

and and and and

6 6 6 6

10 and 9 10 and 8

Between Between Between Between

Continuity Continuity Continuity Continuity

4 5

TURN SIGNAL SWITCH

9.5 Typical turn signal

mk

SHAFT BEARING

Lamps Only

'Cornering

HI

8 9

HOUSING

and hazard switch continuity check

details

INTERMITTENT WIPE SWITCH CONTINUITY CHART SWITCH

CONTINUITY

BETWEEN

POSITION

OFF

L

R and l

2

HEADLAMP

WIPER-WASHER

SWITCH ASSEMBLY

SYSTEMS SWITCH ASSEMBLY

and P 2

P] and

DELAY

Typical turn signal switch mounting details

9.11

I,

TURN

4 I,

SIGNAL

and G

LOW

Pi and L

HIGH

P,

LEVER

and H

maximum delay position should be between 270,000 ohms and 330,000 ohms. •Resistance at minimum delay position should be zero with ohmmeter set on the high ohm scale. •Resistance at

10.5 Wiper switch continuity

specified

check chart

-

the continuity

is

Disconnect the negative battery cable, 7 then remove the steering wheel (see Chap-

Check

Detach the wiring harness trough from

Unplug the

battery.

electrical

connector (see

the

10 Remove the wiper/washer switch pivot screw, leaving the control stalk in place. 11 Remove the three screws and detach the turn signal switch (see illustration). Carefully pull the wiring harness out through the top of the steering column. 12 Installation is the reverse of removal,

illustration 9.4).

contact surfaces with multi-purpose grease and

make

to

securely

10

sure the in

dimmer switch rod

is

located

the pocket of the control stalk.

Wiper/washer switch replacement

-

check and

electrical

connector (see

illustrations 10.5.

10.16

and 10.17

1

These models are equipped with a

multi-function lever located on the

left

side of

column which controls the wiper/washer, turn signal and dimmer switches mounted on the steering column. Some are equipped with two speed wipers

the

steering

(see illustration).

Replace the wiper/washer switch continuity is not as specified (see

if

the

illus-

Use an ohmmeter or self-powered test check for continuity between the

5

light to

switch terminals at the electrical connector

PH2

(see illustration).

Replace the wiper/washer switch

6

continuity

is

if

the

3,

then

in

Steps 2 and

remove the steering wheel (see

Chapter 10). 8 Detach the wiring harness trough from the steering column. Unplug the electrical connector (see 9 10

Remove Pull the

Remove

^A "N"^

the two screws and detach the

knob from the end

of the stalk.

Rotate the control stalk fully clockwise, and pin, then pull the stalk out.

align the slot

Installation

is

the reverse of removal.

PW7

s.

~\Jf

\«,

Wl«» SWITCH INS SWITCH POSITION Off

iow

switch from the stalk, then remove the wiper

14

m§

"""-'wj

^FW5

_o r>

off.

switch hider out for access.

1

1

13

^7

~-^

the lock housing cover screws

the cover

1

ZIJJ.

DtlAT

pull

— «N

"

HN4

PH6

Perform the procedures

7

J

not as specified.

Replacement

and

Non-airbag equipped models

Use an ohmmeter or self-powered test check for continuity between the

light to

tration).

illustration 9.4)

Refer to

Remove the instrument cluster (see 15 Chapter 11).

17

Unplug the

4

to lubricate the steering shaft

column lower

steering

cover.

illustration 9.4).

remembering

Check

switch terminals at the electrical connector

Remove

3

the steering column.

Airbag equipped models

16

Disconnect the negative cable from the

2

ter 10).

9

with an intermittent feature, operated by a

module located under the steering column (H body), or on a bracket below the fuse block (C/V, E and J).

not as specified.

Replacement

8

10.16 Wiper/washer switch installation details

continuity should be as

the four switch positions (non-airbag equipped models)

Replace the turn signal or hazard switch

6 if

in

CLUSTER ASSEMBLY

MOM

CONTINUITY

MTWIIN

PIN S AND PM 10 9 AN AND PM 9 AND ft 10 i rn 9 and 1

m m

10.17 Wiper/washer switch continuity

equipped models continuity should be as specified in each

check

for airbag

of the switch positions

12

i

12-6

Chapter 12 Chassis

electrical

system

LOCK CYLINDER

Y

=1 i

'

IGNITION SWITCH CONNECTOR LOOKING INTO SWITCH GNITION SWITCH

GEARSHIFT HOUSING

WIRE

WIRE

CAVITY

COLOR

"MOUNTING BOLT 11.1

On

switch

is

non-tilt columns, the ignition located on the top right side of the steering column

1

YELLOW

STARTER RELAY

2

DARK BLUE

IGNITION RUN'START

3

GRAY-BLACK

BRAKE WARNING LAMP

4

PINK.BLACK PINK

check and

Ignition switch

OR

BUCK; ORANGE

OR BLACK/TAN

On

Warning:

airbag-equipped

models,

i

Non-tilt Refer to 1

column

illustrations 11.1

The

on the actuated by a rod

is

attached to the key lock cylinder (see

ACCESSORY

7

RED

IGNITION SWITCH BATTERY FEED

illus-

tration).

2

Remove

through

the switch

Steps 5

8).

Use an ohmmeter or self-powered test and the accompanying diagram to check for continuity between the switch 3

is

it

small screwdriver

until

it

is

flush with the

surface (see illustration).

18

Turn the key clockwise to the Off which will unseat the lock cylinder, but don't try to remove it yet. With the cylinder unseated, rotate the key counterclockwise to the Lock position, remove the key;- then remove the lock cylinder from the position,

side of the steering column and

is held in place by three Torx T-20 tamper proof screws which require a special tool for removal (available at auto parts stores).

Check

ignition switch.

through

Installation

making sure

Remove

11

light

Check

If

cylinder, insert the key

11.3 Ignition switch continuity chart

12

(refer to

necessary to remove the lock and turn it to the Lock position. Press the retaining pin in with a 17

BLACK OR BLACK WHITE

19

11.3

ignition switch is located

column and

steering

and

RUN ACCESSORY

6

replacement

always disconnect the negative battery cable when working in the vicinity of the steering column to avoid the possibility of accidental deployment of the airbag, which could cause personal injury.

11.16 The tilt column ignition switch is held in place by three Torx-head tamperproof screw (arrows) (the lower screw is located under the cover)

IGNITION SWITCH BATTERY FEED

PINK WHITE 5

11

APPLICATION

the

switch

(see

Steps

14

the reverse of removal,

on column

shift

As the switch

shifter is in Park.

is

models the engaged to

the column shift park slider linkage,

1 6).

Use an ohmmeter or self-powered test and check for continuity between the

20

the switch does not have correct continuity, replace it.

position until

If

Replacement

make

sure the column lock flag on the switch parallel with the electrical connectors.

switch terminals (see illustration 11.3).

13

is

that

Insert the it

is

lock cylinderjn the Lock bottoms in the switch. While

pushing the lock cylinder in, insert the key and turn it clockwise to the Run position.

light

terminals (see illustration).

the switch does not have correct continuity, replace it.

4

If

Replacement 5

Disconnect the negative cable from the

battery.

6 turn

Insert the it

to the

key

Ace

14

Disconnect the negative cable from the

battery.

into the lock cylinder

15 Remove the steering column cover (see Chapter 11). 16 Remove the tamper proof screws, detach the switch from column, then unplug the electrical connector and remove switch from the steering column (see illustration).

Remove the steering column cover (see Chapter 11). On some models it may be necessary to remove the bolts or nuts and lower the steering column for access to the

Dual-function switch (airbag-

equipped models) replacement Refer to

illustrations 12.2a, 12.2b, 12.6,

SMALL SCREWDRIVER

personal

8 Unplug the electrical connector, remove the bolts, then detach the switch from the

function switch

actuator rod and lower column.

remotely

Tilt

fully

from the steering CYLINDER RETAINING PIN

column models

11.17 Push the retaining pin in to unseat the lock cylinder

Refer to illustrations 11.16 and 11.17

10

The

ignition switch is located

on

right

in

The

the

left

the dual-

located on either the

left

mounted

side of instrument cluster

and hazard warning functions are incorporated into one switch. bezel.

turn signal

Check IGNITION SWITCH

tightening the bolts.

is

side of the steering column or

Installation is the reverse of removal. 9 With the switch in the Lock position engage it to the actuator rod, then push up on the switch to remove any slack from the rod

12.13

injury.

On airbag-equipped models

1

before

check and

and 12.24 Warning:

switch.

it

-

On airbag-equipped models, always disconnect the negative battery cable when working in the vicinity of the steering column to avoid the possibility of accidental deployment of the airbag, which could cause

and

position.

7

12

Column-mounted switch Hazard switch Remove the

2

steering

column upper and

electrical Unplug the lower covers. ohmmeter or selfconnector, and use an

1

12-7

Chassis electrical system

Chapter 12

HAZARD

=n

WARNING BUTTON

HAZARD WARNING BUTTON

? ? ? ? VIEW FROM TERMINAL SIDE

CONTINUITY •ITWIIN

SWITCH POSITION OFF

DUAL FUNCTION SWITCH

ON

6

AND

8

6

AND AND

9 10

7

DUAl FUNCTION SWITCH ASSEMBLY

12.2b Hazard switch continuity chart

-

airbag-equipped models cancellation paw;

Remote switch DUAl FUNCTION SWITCH

Continuity check

CONNECTOR

12

Remove

Chapter 13

the instrument cluster (see

11).

Make

plugged

way connector is and use an ohmmeter or self-

sure the white 7

in

powered

test light to check for continuity between the terminals with the switch in the

12.2a Dual-function switch connector location

12.6 Details of the

column-mounted dual-

function switch (airbag-equipped models)

indicated positions (see illustration).

Cancellation check

powered

test light

and the accompanying

diagram to check for hazard warning switch continuity between the switch terminals with the switch in each position (see illustrations).

Turning signal cancellation check With the ignition switch on, refer to illustration 12.2b and connect a voltmeter positive lead ,to terminal pin 8 and the negative lead to a good ground. The voltmeter should read battery voltage. If it doesn't, check for voltage at the pin 8 feed wire. If battery voltage is present, continue with the check. 4 Install a jumper wire between pin 3 and a good ground. Connect the voltmeter positive lead to 5 3

and the negative lead to good ground. Caution: Make sure that pin 5 doesn't become grounded because this will damage

14

Install

a jumper wire between pin 6 and

Column-mounted switch

12.13).

18

steering

Place the turn signal switch in the left and connect one end to a good ground, then momentarily touch the other end to pin 11 or 14. This should energize the turn signal solenoid, returning the switch to

7

Place the turn signal switch in the right and repeat the test. If the switch doesn't return to the Off 17 position in either test, it is defective and should be replaced with a new one.

column

21

Installation

PIN 7

14

WAY CONNECTOR

PIN 6

the multi-function switch

the reverse of removal.

Remote switch Remove the instrument cluster (see 22 Chapter 11). 23 Remove the two screws from the bottom and loosen the five screws from the inside of the cluster assembly, then detach the inner plastic piece.

24

Disconnect the

the end of the slot

pigtail

connector from

is is

operating properly

9 volts or more.

the reading

in

the headlight switch

(see illustration)

illustration).

voltage reading

is

between

if It

25

the

Installation

is

the reverse of removal.

is

and 8 LOCKING TAB

volts.

8

is

the circuit board and slide the switch out of

The switch if

equipped) and

away from and detach the electrical connector, then remove the switch. Lift

16

(if

tration 12.2a).

20

turn position

lever

tilt

19 Remove the bolts, then detach the switch from the steering column (see illus-

the

Push down on the switch cancellation

defective

the

column cover.

the Off (center) position.

the switch.

pawl (see

Remove

15

turn position

pin 5

6

Replacement

the battery positive terminal (see illustration

Install

a jumper wire between pin 4 and

a good ground. 9 pin

VIEWED FROM

Connect the voltmeter positive lead to 5 and the negative lead to good ground.

REAR OF SWITCH

Caution: Make sure that pin 5 doesn't

become grounded because

this will

damage

the switch.

10 Push down on the switch cancellation pawl (see illustration 12.6). 11 The switch is operating properly if the voltage reading is 9 volts or more. It is defective if the reading is between and 8 volts.

CONNI

SWITCH POSITION

12.13

AND AND

PIN 1 PIN 14 1

PIN 8 AND PIN 1 PIN SAND PIN 14

RIGHT

Remote

s

CONTINUITY ITWIIN PIN 7 PIN 7

LEFT

•

turn signal switch

continuity chart

12

TURN SIGNAL HANDLE

12.24

Remote

turn signal

switch details

2

12-8

Chapter 12 Chassis

electrical

system

ADJUSTER SCREW

SPRING

13.2a Typical headlight bezel screw locations (arrows)

SCREW RETAINER

13.2b

13

Headlight

-

illustrations 13.2a, 13.2b, 13.7a

and

retractable headlight models, turn

the parking lights on and actuate the

dimmer

switch to open the headlight doors. 2

-

don't disturb the adjuster screws

headlight

connector

out,

unplug

remove

and

the the

14

Headlights

-

adjustment

headlight assembly.

Sealed beam-type On

the

Pull

electrical

4

1

the headlight retainer screws

replacement 3

Refer to 13.7b

Remove

Remove

the

headlight

screws

and

detach the bezel, then remove the headlight retainer screws (see illustrations). Don't disturb the adjustment screws.

Installation is the reverse of removal.

Bulb-type

and handle the bulbs carefully, grasping only the base whenever possible. Don't touch the surface of the bulb with your fingers because the oil from your skin could cause it to overheat and fail prematurely. If you do touch the bulb surface, clean it with rubbing alcohol. Disconnect the negative cable from the 5 protection

battery.

Open

7

Remove

headlight

the hood.

the

bolts

module from the

and detach the grille

opening (see

On

13.7a body (LeBaron coupe and convertible) models, the headlight module is held in place by bolts (arrows) later J

adjusted incorrectly, they could

vehicle

oncoming and cause an accident or seriously

reduce your

see the road. The be checked for proper aim every 12 months and any time a new headlight is installed or front end body work is performed. The following procedure is only an interim step to provide temporary adjustment until the headlights can be adjusted by a properly equipped shop. 1 Headlights have two spring loaded adjusting screws, one on the top controlling up-and-down movement and one on the side ability to

headlights should

controlling

left

and-right

movement (see

illustrations).

This procedure requires a blank wall 25

2

Unplug the electrical connector, unscrew the bulb retaining ring and pull the holder assembly out for access to the bulb. Grasp the bulb base and unplug it from 9

feet in front of the vehicle

the holder.

4 Position a horizontal tape line in reference to the centerline of all the headlights. Note: It may be easier to position the tape on the wall with the vehicle parked only a few inches away.

10

Insert the

11

Install

new

bulb into the holder.

the bulb holder

in

the headlight

assembly. 1

13.7b Detach the bolts and electrical connections, then withdraw the module from the opening

If

temporarily blind the driver of an

illustrations).

8

i

illustrations 14.1a

correctly.

Warning: Halogen bulbs are gas-filled and under pressure and may shatter if the surface is scratched or the bulb is dropped. Wear eye

6

and 14.1b Warning: The headlights must be aimed Refer to

Installation

is

the reverse of removal.

14.1a On later LeBaron coupe and convertible models, use a Torx-head screwdriver to make up-and-down headlight adjustments

3

and a

level floor.

Position masking tape vertically on the

wall in reference to the vehicle centerline

and

the centerlines of both headlights.

14.1b The adjuster screw at the corner of the module housing is used to adjust the headlights from side-to-side

Chapter 12

Adjustment should be made with the vehicle sitting level, the gas tank half-full and no unusually heavy load in the vehicle. Starting with the low beam adjustment, 6 position the high intensity zone so it's two inches below the horizontal line and two 5

MACKET

12-9

Chassis electrical system

be made, keep in mind that the low beams are the most used and have the greatest effect

on dnver safety.

Have the headlights adjusted by a

8

dealer service department or service station at the earliest opportunity.

inches to the right of the headlight vertical

MOUNTING NUT

Adjustment is made by turning the top adjusting screw clockwise to raise the beam and counterclockwise to lower the beam. The adjusting screw on the side should be used in

15

line.

VIEW IN DIMCTIQN Of AMQW

MOUSING

the

same manner

to

move

the

beam

left

or

right.

With the high beams on, the high zone should be vertically centered with the exact center just below the horizontal line. Note: It may not be possible 7

intensity

15.1a Front parking and turn signal light details (1985

and

earlier

C/V and E body)

to position the headlight

high

and low beams.

If

aim exactly

for

both

a compromise must

Bulb replacement

Refer to illustrations 15.3a through 15.3f

15. 1a

through

15. It

and

1 The lenses of many lights are held in place by screws, which makes it a simple procedure to gain access to the bulbs (see

illustrations)

On some lights the lenses are held in place by clips. The lenses can be removed either by unsnapping them or by using a small screwdriver to pry them off. 2

PLATE

HOUSING

FROfT BUMPER 15.1c

15.1b The park and turn signal light bulbs are reached after removing the bezel

H body

front parking

and turn signal

details

SIDE

MARKER LAMP HIGH-UNE -^ CORNERING LAMP ASSEMBLY

PREMIUM PARK

AND

TURN LAMP 15.1d Later LeBaron coupe and convertible front light details

MARKER LAMP

SIDE

L£NS

LICENSE PLATE

LAMP

(2)

DECK

LID

MOUNTED TAILLAMP

MOULDING

BACK-UP LAMP

STOP, TURN SIGNAL AND

TAILLAMP

15.1e

H body

rear bulb replacement details

15.1f Later

model LeBaron stop, turn signal, backup, license plate and side marker light details

12

12-10 i

;

'

Chapter 12 Chassis

CENTER HIGH-MOUNTED BRAKE LIGHT

electrical

system

CENTER HIGH-MOUNTED BRAKE LIGHT

PUSH FASTENERS

ADAPTER' 15.3a C/V

body center high mounted brake

light details

CENTER HIGH-MOUNTED BRAKE LIGHT

ADAPTED BULB

15.3b

AND

H body

center high mounted brake

light details

SOCKET

COVER 15.3c E body center high

mounted brake

CENTER HIGH-MOUNTED BRAKE LIGHT

light details

CENTER HIGH-MOUNTED BRAKE LIGHT

GASKET 15.3e 1986 and earlier convertible center high

15.3d Station

wagon center

high

mounted brake

light details

ATTACHING SCREWS

CENTER HIGH

MOUNTED STOP

mounted brake

light details

LAMP

3

Several types of bulbs are used.

Some

and turning them counterclockwise. Others can simply be undipped from the terminals or pulled are

removed by pushing

in

straight out of the socket (see illustrations).

4

To gain access

lights,

the

removed CENTER HIGH-MOUNTED STOP LAMP

16 LAMP COVER

to the instrument panel

instrument

cluster

must

be

first.

Headlight switch

-

removal and

installation

Refer to illustrations 16.4, 16.5, 16.6, 16.8, 16.10 and 16.13

LAMP ASSEMBLY

15.3f Later

model J body center high mounted brake

light details

Warning: On airbag -equipped models, always disconnect the negative battery cable when working in the vicinity of the steering column to avoid the possibility of accidental deployment of the airbag, which could cause personal injury. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 1

1

Chapter 12

12-11

Chassis electrical system

ESCUTCHEON

MOUNTING NUT

16.4 Depress the headlight switch burton

Grasp the escutcheon securely and unsnap it from the switch (C/V and E body)

16.5

with a screwdriver to release the knob (C/V and E body)

16.6

Unscrew the mounting nut

to

remove

the headlight switch (C/V and E body)

HEADLIGHT

fr**^

• WITCH

SWITCH

MODULE

REAR WIPER

AND WASHER

HEADLIGHT SWITCH 16.8

WINDOW SWITCH

H body headlight switch module

C/V and E body 2

details

16.10

Hbody

Remove the instrument switch assembly Remove the three screws and detach

trim bezel.

the switch assembly plate from the dash panel.

3

SWITCH

HEATED REAR

Carefully pull the switch

assembly out

of

8 Remove the headlight and accessory switch module (see illustration). 9 Press the release button on the side of the switch and withdraw the switch knob and

the dash and unplug the electrical connector.

shaft.

Press the release button on the side of the switch and withdraw the switch knob and shaft (see illustration). Snap the escutcheon out of the dash, 5 then remove the nut holding the switch on

Remove the screws and detach the 10 switch from the module (see illustration).

4

the mounting plate (see illustration).

6

Remove

the nut, detach the switch from

the mounting plate then

remove the switch

Installation is the reverse of removal.

Installation is the reverse of removal.

12

Remove

straight out,

the instrument cluster bezel the turn signal lever by pulling

remove

turn signal switch

SWITCH REAR VIEW

Radio

Refer to

it

for

-

removal and

installation

illustrations 17.3a. 17.3b. 17.4. 17.11

and 17.15 Warning:

(see Chapter 11).

Remove

headlight switch details

access, then remove the screws and detach the headlight switch (see illustration) 14 Installation is the reverse of removal.

17

J body 13

(see illustration). 7

1

H body

On

airbag-equipped

models,

always disconnect the negative battery cable when working in the vicinity of the steering column to avoid the possibility of accidental deployment of the airbag. which could cause personal

INSTRUMENT PANEL TOP

injury.

MOUNTING SCREW

COVER

MOUNTING SCREW

TURN SIGNAL

SWITCH

SWITCH

16.13 Later LeBaron

12

INSTRUMENT PANEL

HEADLIGHT MULTI-FUNCTION

.

coupe and convertible headlight

switch details

17.3a

On C/V and E body models equipped

with monaural radios,

remove the instrument panel cover

.

.

.

2 3 6 1

12-12

Chapter 12 Chassis

electrical

system

SPEAKER

MOUNTING SCREW

'

GROUND STRAP MOUNTED TO DASH PANEL

INSTRUMENT PANEL 17.3b

.

17.4 C/V

and then the speaker

and E body radio mounting

details

INSTRUMENT PANEL RADIO ASSEMBLY

LOWER STEERING

17.11

H body

Chapter 1

11).

Remove

Disconnect the ground strap and detach

the radio.

instrument panel top cover (see illustra-

J body

tions).

the mounting screws, pull the

enough to allow the connectors be unplugged, then remove the radio from the dash (see illustration). radio out far

to

5

1

1

of the console trim bezel

pull

Remove

is

the reverse of removal.

Grasp the center bezel securely and pull it sharply out to remove it. 15 Remove the mounting screws, pull the 14

6

for

Installation is the reverse of removal.

radio out of the instrument panel, disconnect

it

from the vehicle (see

illus-

1

Installation is the reverse of removal.

the two mounting screws and

18

Antenna

Hbody the instrument cluster (see

-

removal and

installation

the radio out, then unplug the electrical

Remove

and pull the shield access to the antenna. Detach the antenna from the fender and 5 remove it from the vehicle.

away

and detach

connectors and ground strap. Remove the radio from the dash. 8 9 Installation is the reverse of removal.

10

gasket (see illustrations). 4 Working under the vehicle, remove the three plastic rivets from the rear edge of the

tration).

the

the bezel from the console.

7

unscrew the antenna mast, then remove the cap nut and lift off the upper adapter and

inner fender splash shield

Installation

then remove

Console-equipped models 6 Remove the two screws from

coupe and convertible

the electrical connectors and antenna lead,

Installation is the reverse of removal.

bottom

the two mounting screws, pull

illustration).

Standard models 2 Remove the left instrument panel bezel. On monoaural models, remove the 3

Remove

BEZEL

the radio out and disconnect the wiring (see

C/V and E body

4

CENTER

COVER

17.15 1990 and later model LeBaron radio details

radio mounting details

1 Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery.

COLUMN

Refer to illustrations 18.3a, 18.3b and 18.3c 1

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2

Working under the dash, unplug the

antenna cable. 3 Use a small

18.3a

open-end

wrench

to

Unscrew the antenna mast with a small wrench

Chapter 12 Chassis

electrical

12-13

system 5

the wipers

If

still

don't work, turn on

the wipers and check for voltage at the

motor connector. If there's voltage, remove the motor and check it off the vehicle with fused jumper wires from the battery. If the motor now works, check for a binding linkage. If the motor still doesn't work, replace

6

If

it.

there's no voltage at the motor, the

problem

is in

the switch or wiring.

Replacement 18.3b Use needle-nose pliers to unscrew the cap nut - be careful, the pliers can easily slip and scratch the fender

18.3c

Windshield wiper motor and replacement

Refer to

illustration 19.

-

check

10

Check 1

If

the wiper motor does not run at

al

check the fuse block

(see Section

for

a blown fuse

Mark their locations, remove the nuts 8 and detach the wiper arms. Remove the cowl cover (see Chapter 9 11).

3).

2

Check the wiper switch

3

Turn the ignition switch and wiper

(see Section

1 0).

10 Unplug the wiper motor electrical connector and remove the mounting bolts

switch on.

(see illustration)

4

Connect a jumper wire between the wiper motor and ground, then retest. If the motor works now, repair the ground

11 Hold the motor drive crank with a wrench, remove the crank nut and detach the crank, then lift the motor out.

connection.

12

Installation is the reverse of removal.

LEFT

RIGHT WIPER

RIGHT WIPER BLADE

Disconnect the negative cable from the

7

the adapter off the fender

battery.

first

19

Lift

WIPER BLADE

ARM

LEFT

WIPER

ARM

LINK

CRANK MOUNTING

WIPER

MOTOR

NUT

MOTOR MOUNTING

ASSEMBLY LINKS

AND

NUT

PIVOT

ASSEMBLY

WIPER

MOTOR COVER ASSEMBLY

WIPER

MOTOR ASSEMBLY

VIEW

IN DIRECTION

OF ARROW Z

PIVOT

MOUNTING SCREW VIEW

19.10 Typical wiper motor installation details

12 IN CIRCLE Y

12-14

Chapter 12 Chassis COWL PANEL

electrical

system 1

INSTRUMENT PANEL TOP COVER

Remove

the instrument panel top cover.

Loosen the left and right instrument panel pivot bolts (see

hand

11

illus-

tration).

12

Remove

screws

the

attaching

the

instrument panel to the cowl.

13

Roll

instrument panel

the

access and unplug any remaining

back

for

electrical

connectors.

14

With an assistant supporting the weight,

remove the

pivot bolts, then

remove the

instrument panel from the vehicle.

15

Installation

is

the reverse of removal.

22 Airbag system

-

general

information Refer to

illustrations 22. 1a

Some models

PIVOT BOLTS

airbag system. This driver and,

on

is

later

designed to protect the models, the front seat

passenger from serious

and top cover

details

work described below.

20

Instrument cluster

-

removal and

1

installation

1

Disconnect the negative cable from the

Remove

the cluster bezel (see Chap-

ter 11).

3

Remove

Pull the

assembly out and disconnect the connectors.

4

Installation

is

air

conditioning

3 Remove the relay panel above the glovebox opening (some models). Remove the left and right side cowl and 4

the cluster mounting screws.

electrical

system by a service station or an

the

discharged automotive air conditioning shop. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2 Refer to Chapter 1 1 and remove the instrument cluster bezel, steering column cover and the dashboard panels.

battery.

2

Have

scuff plate panels.

the reverse of removal.

On some models

necessary to remove the 5

21

Instrument panel

6

removal and

installation

7

it

may be

A-pillar covers.

Remove the hood release handle. Remove the center floor console

Chapter

(see

11).

Remove

,the radio

and

heater/air condi-

illustration

and 21.11

8

equipped with airbags, refer to Section 22 in this Chapter to disarm the airbag system prior to performing any Warning:

If

vehicle

is

CLOCKSPRING

AIR

signal to heat and ignites a sodium/copper oxide powder charge, in turn producing nitrogen gas, which inflates the electrical

bag.

Electronic diagnostic monitor electronic

monitor

diagnostic

Unplug the instrument panel bulkhead

supplies the current to the airbag system

connector. Disconnect the heater/air conditioner

the event of the collision, even

electrical

9

sensors located at the radiator center, in the center cowl area, and behind the right side kick panel, in the airbag diagnostic monitor; and an airbag warning indicator on the instrument panel (see illustrations). Each of the airbag modules contains a housing incorporating the airbag, an ignitor and an inflator, The inflator is activated when an electrical signal from any of trie sensors is sent to the the ignitor, which converts the

The

tioner controls.

Refer to

injury in frontal colli-

The system consists

of an airbag contained in the center of the steering wheel to protect the driver; a similar passenger airbag on the right side of the instrument panel (on models so equipped); crash

sions.

21.11 Typical instrument panel

and 22. 1b

are equipped with an

electrical

and vacuum

BAG

MODULE

power

is

cut

off.

time the vehicle

lines.

PASSENGER AIRBAG

MODULE

It

is

checks

this

if

system every

started, causing the "AIR

IMPACT

SENSOR

CRASH SENSOR

DIAGNOSTIC MODULE W/INTERNAl

KNEE BOLSTER

CRASH SENSOR

22.1a Driver's side airbag system

components

in

battery

22.1b Passenger's side airbag system components

Chapter 12 Chassis

UPPER SPEEDOMETER CABLE

electrical

12-15

system

SPEEDOMETER CABLE

O-RJNG

TRANSAXLE LOWER

DISTANCE SENSOR

SPEEDOMETER CABLE

TO SPEEDOMETER = |ofuMN

ADAPTER RETAINER

SPEEDOMETER PINION

CABLE

TO

TRANSAXLE 23.3a

Unscrew the speedometer cable

BAG" light to go on then off, if the system is operating properly. If there is a fault in the system, the light will go on and stay on, flash, or the dash will make a beeping sound. If this happens, the vehicle should be taken to your dealer immediately for service.

associated wiring.

Installation Route the cable through the instrument panel through the dash, making sure not to kink it and to seat the grommet securely. Connect the cable to the coupling or 6 transaxle and install the instrument cluster.

Diagnosis can usually be limited to

5

simple checks of the wiring connections and

motors a)

in

the vicinity of the

column or near other components of the airbag system, the system should be disarmed. To do this, perform the following steps: a)

Turn the ignition switch to

b)

Detach the cable from the negative then detach the battery terminal, positive cable. Wait two minutes for the electronic module backup power supply to be depleted.

24

Off.

b)

These

Check

b)

Check

positive battery cable

c)

Remove

the door panel(s)

and check

the if

damaged. Inspect the actuator rods (if equipped) to make sure they aren't bent or damaged. Inspect the they're loose or

removal

actuator wiring for damaged or loose connections. The actuator can be

Refer to illustrations 23.3a and 23.3b

momentarily.

A

discernible click indicates

that the solenoid

Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2 Remove the instrument cluster (see Section 20) and lower steering column cover (see Chapter 11).

is

operating properly.

1

Disconnect the cable at the transaxle coupling in the engine compartment by unscrewing the collar (see illustrations). 4 In the passenger compartment, pull the speedometer cable and grommet out through the instrument panel and remove it from the 3

vehicle.

could cause binding.

26

Cruise control system

by a cable. The system consists of the servo motor, clutch switch, brake switch, control which

is

connected

to the throttle linkage

switches, a relay and associated

Because

of the

control system

complexity of the cruise

and the special tools and

techniques required

for

diagnosis, repair

to a dealer service

left

or a repair shop. However,

Power window system

the

-

description and check

mechanisms

is

department possible for

home mechanic to make simple checks and vacuum connections for

and

which can be easily repaired.

minor

faults

These

include:

a)

Inspect the cruise control actuating switches for broken wires and loose connections.

consists of the control switches, the motors

glass

it

of the wiring

The power window system operates the electric motors mounted in the doors which lower and raise the windows. The system (regulators),

vacuum

hoses.

should be

25

-

The cruise control system maintains vehicle speed with a vacuum actuated servo motor located in the engine compartment,

checked by applying battery power

Removal

damaged. Inspect the mechanisms for damage which

damage and

actuator electrical connections to see

-

Remove the door panel(s) and check the power window motor wires to see if

description and check

the switch wires for

for continuity.

first,

power window fuse/and or

include:

the system fuse and/or circuit

loose connections. Check the switches

then connect the negative cable.

the

they're loose or

Diagnosis can usually be limited to simple checks of the wiring connections and actuators for minor faults which can be easily repaired.

Check

glass

breaker.

Turn the ignition switch to the Off

Speedometer cable and installation

power window actuating

Inspect the

circuit breaker.

actuators and associated wiring.

position.

23

include:

connections.

-

c)

Enabling the system

Connect the

Power door lock system description and check

The power door lock system operates the door lock actuators mounted in each door. The system consists of the switches,

a)

b)

These

switches for broken wires and loose

steering wheel, steering

a)

minor faults which can be easily

for

repaired.

Disabling the system Whenever working

at the transaxle

23.3b

at the coupling or

b)

Check

the cnjise control fuse.

12

5

i

12-16

Chapter 12 Chassis

electrical

system

VIEW FROM INSIDE

BREAK

VEHICLE

GROUND

GRID LINE

"B"

PARCEL SHELF

C.H.M.S.L. TRIM

COVER 27.4 Rear

c)

MASKING TAPE

window defogger test

The cruise control system

27.13 To repair a broken grid, first ^pply a strip of tape to either side of the grid to mask off the area

points

operated by

Repair

switches, hoses

system switches On. Ground the negative lead of a voltmeter 4 to terminal B and the positive lead to terminal

10

Repair the break

secure.

A

kit

recommended

vacuum so

it's critical

is

that

all

vacuum

and connections are Check the hoses in the engine compartment for tight connections, cracks and obvious vacuum leaks.

(see illustration).

The voltmeter between 10 and 15

5 If

the reading

lower, there

is

is

volts.

a poor ground

Rear window defogger and repair «

Refer to 1

illustrations

The

number

27.4

check

-

and 27. 13

window defogger consists of a horizontal elements baked onto

rear

of

Contact the negative lead to a good body ground. The reading should stay the

11

Small breaks in the element can be repaired without removing the rear window.

2

Check 3

Turn the ignition switch and defogger

Included

(or equivalent).

system and allow

it

If

the reading

is

0,

there

is

A

a break "A".

an indication of a break between mid-point "C". Move the lead toward the break; the voltage will change when the break is crossed. 9

1

to

1

4

volt

reading

is

this

No.

in this kit is

to de-energize for a

rubbing alcohol.

between mid-point "C" and terminal

Kit

few

minutes.

with the positive lead. six

for

conductive epoxy.

steel wool, then clean

The reading should be approximately

using repair

Prior to repairing a break, turn off the

same. 7 Connect the negative lead to terminal B, then touch each grid line at the mid-point

volts.

the glass surface.

4267922 plastic

8

line

purpose, such as Mopar Repair

connection.

6

27

the

in

specifically

12

13

Lightly buff the

element area with fine it thoroughly with

Use masking tape

to

mask

off the

area

of repair (see illustration).

14

Mix the epoxy thoroughly, according to

the instructions on the package. 1 Apply the epoxy material to the slit in the masking tape, overlapping the\indamaged area about 3/4-inch on either end. 16 Allow the repair to cure for 24 hours before removing the tape and using the

system.

COLOR CODE CHART STANDARD STANDARD COLOR COLOR TRACER COLOR TRACER COLOR CODE CODE CODE COLOR 1

BK BR

DB

DG

BLACK

WIRE

WT

PK

PINK

BKOR

WH

BROWN

WT

RD

RED

WT

DARK

WT

TN

TAN

WT

BLUE

DARK GREEN

28

Wiring diagrams information

Refer to

illustration

VT

VIOLET

WT

GY

GRAY

BK

WT

WHITE

BK

LB

LIGHT BLUE

BK

YL

YELLOW

BK

BK

•

OR

LIGHT

GREEN

ORANGE

28.4

check the fuses, fusible

WT

BK

28.4 Wire color

WITH TRACER

general

Since it isn't possible to include all wiring diagrams for every year covered by this manual, the following diagrams are those that are typical and most commonly needed. Prior to troubleshooting any circuits, breakers

good

(if

equipped) to

condition.

links

make

circuit in

Make

sure the battery is and check the cable

your vehicle (see illustration).

code chart

and

sure they're

charged connections (see Chapter 1). When checking a circuit, make sure that all connectors are clean, with no broken or loose terminals. When unplugging a connector, do not pull on the wires. Pull only on the connector housings themselves. Refer to the accompanying table and legend for the wire color codes applicable to properly

LG

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Speetfcatons 11

» youre repiac*ig a rear sea or you do not wan: to rempve the OsMXJW dnve a couple ol smat holes - fee adapter,

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Written from hands-on experience based on a vehicle teardown using

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Notes, Cautions and Warnings the home mechanic

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Color spark plug

diagnosis 9.7b As a last resort, you can atso dnre a cam seat r*o ptac* w«h a hammer and a targe socket, but make sure you dont

-1-2-

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--

---

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Easy to use index

'--='me end

ol the

camshaft

ISBN

Sv

Models covered by All

this

1

56392 196

799-1104

manUi ABCDEFGHIJKLMN

mid-size front-wheel drive^rfbdels

Coupe Chrysler LeBaron Sedan (1982 thru 1989), LeBaron LeBaron GTS, E-Class, New Yorker (4-cylinder engines) Dodge 400, 600, Lancer, Plymouth Caravelle

&

Convertible, -*

Haynes Manual #25020 LeBaron Landau & Sedan (1990 thru 1993) covered in -

i

38345"01337

2