Haynes Chrysler Cirrus, Dodge Stratus, Plymouth Breeze Automotive Repair Manual [25015] 1563922967, 9781563922961

Citation preview

iE STRATUS __

PLYMOUTH BREEZE. 1995 thru 1998.0 All models

5

4 {os

3 9094 01789 5911

Vil WAUKEGAN PUBLIC LIBRARY

|

Chrysler 6

Cirrus Dodge Stratus A. ee a

Plymouth Breeze

Automotive Repair Manual

2 ;

by Marc M Scribner and John H Haynes Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers

Models covered: Chrysler Cirrus, Dodge Stratus and Plymouth Breeze 1995 through 1998

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eNEe A AUTOMCTIV IE PARTSsf &

AGES GRAS MEMBER Haynes Publishing Group Sparkford Nr Yeovil Somerset BA22 7JJ England Haynes North America, Inc 861 Lawrence Drive Newbury Park California 91320 USA

21 \

Acknowledgments We are grateful to the Chrysler Corporation for providing technical information and certain illustrations. Wiring diagrams produced exclusively for Haynes North America, Inc. by Valley Forge Technical Communications.

© Haynes North America, Inc. 1998 With permission from J.H. Haynes & Co. Ltd.

A book in the Haynes Automotive Repair Manual Series Printed in the U.S.A. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 56392 296 7 Library of Congress Catalog Card Number 98-85028 While every attempt is made to ensure that the information in this manual

is Correct, no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given. 98-320

0- ©

About this manual

0-5

Introduction to the Chrysler Cirrus, Dodge Stratus and Plymouth Breeze Vehicle identification numbers Buying parts Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Booster battery (jump) starting Jacking and towing Automotive chemicals and lubricants Conversion factors Safety first! Troubleshooting

0-5 ‘0-6 0-8 0-8 0-14 0-15 0-16 0-17 0-18 0-19

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance Chapter 2

1-1

PartA

Four-cylinder engines

Chapter2

2A-1

PartB

V6 engine

Chapter 2

2B-1

2B

2C-1

2c

Part C

General engine overhaul procedures

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

3-1

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

4-1

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

5-1

Chapter 6 Emissions and engine control systems

Chapter 7

6-1

PartA

Manual transaxle

Chapter7

TA-1

PartB

Automatic transaxle

7B-1

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles a

8-1

Chapter 9 Brakes a

:

a

a

a

a

ee

9-1 ee

Chapter 10 10-1 Seta Suspension and steering systems (0°00a Chapter 11 11-1 Body eee

Chapter 12 12-1

Chassis electrical system ee ee e Se

12-20

Wiring diagrams Ee

Index

:

IND-1

7A 7B

Haynes mechanic, author and photographer with 1996 Chrysler Cirrus

0-5

About this manual Its purpose The purpose of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done, even if you choose to have it done by a dealer service department or a repair shop; it provides information and procedures for routine maintenance and servicing; and it offers diagnostic and repair procedures to follow when trouble

occurs. We hope you use the manual to tackle the work yourself. For many simpler jobs, doing it yourself may be quicker than arranging an appointment to get the vehicle into a shop and making the trips to leave it and pick it up. More importantly, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the expense the shop

must pass on to you to cover its labor and overhead costs. An added benefit is the sense of satisfaction and accomplishment that you feel after doing the job yourself.

Using the manual The manual is divided into Chapters. Each Chapter is divided into numbered Sections, which are headed in bold type between

horizontal lines. Each Section consists of consecutively numbered paragraphs. At the beginning of each numbered Section you will be referred to any illustrations which apply to the procedures in that Section. The reference numbers used in illustration captions pinpoint the pertinent Section and the Step within that Section. That is, illustration 3.2 means the illustration refers to Section 3 and Step (or paragraph) 2 within

that Section. Procedures, once described in the text,

are not normally repeated. When it’s necessary to refer to another Chapter, the reference will be given as Chapter and Section number. Cross references given without use of the word “Chapter” apply to Sections and/or paragraphs in the same Chapter. For example, “see Section 8” means in the same Chapter. References to the left or right side of the vehicle assume you are sitting in the driver’s seat, facing forward. Even though we have prepared this manual

with extreme care, neither the pub-

lisher nor the author can accept responsibility for any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

NOTE A Note provides information necessary to properly complete a procedure or information which will make the procedure easier to understand.

CAUTION A Caution provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the Caution is found. Not heeding a Caution can result in damage to the assembly being worked on.

WARNING A Warning provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the Warning is found. Not heeding a Warning can result in personal injury.

Introduction to the Chrysler Cirrus, Dodge Stratus and Plymouth Breeze The Chrysler Cirrus, Dodge Stratus and Plymouth Breeze models are four-door sedan type body styles. They feature transversely mounted engines which were offered in three displacements; a 2.0 liter in-line four-cylinder engine with a Single Overhead-Camshaft (SOHC), a 2.4 liter in-line four-cylinder engine with a Dual Overhead-Camshaft (DOHC) and the 60-degree V6 six-cylinder engine with Single Overhead-Camshafts (SOHC) (one

over each cylinder head). All models are equipped with an electronically controlled multi-port electronic fuel

injection system. The engine transmits power to the front wheels through either a five-speed manual transaxle or a four-speed automatic transaxle

via independent driveaxles. All models feature an all steel unibody design and independent front and rear suspension. The front suspension incorporates a shock absorber/coil spring assembly with upper and lower control arms, while the rear suspension utilizes a shock absorber/coil spring assembly and upper control arm in combination with a trailing arm and

lateral links. The standard power rack and pinion steering unit is mounted behind the engine on the front suspension crossmember. An electronically controlled variable-assist speed-proportional power steering was available as an option, which provided maximum power steering at low vehicle speeds. All models are equipped with power assisted front disc and rear drum brakes with an Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) available as an option.

0-6

Vehicle identification numbers Modifications are a continuing and unpublicized process in vehicle manufacturing. Since spare parts manuals and lists are compiled on a numerical basis, the individual vehicle numbers are essential to correctly identify the component required.

Vehicle Identification Number

(VIN) This very important identification number is located on a plate attached to the

dashboard inside the windshield on the driver’s side of the vehicle (see illustration). The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certifi-

cate of Title and Registration. It contains information such as where and when the

vehicle was manufactured, the model year and the body style.

VIN engine and model year codes Two particularly important pieces of information found in the VIN are the engine code and the model year code. Counting from the left, the engine code letter designation is the 8th digit and the model year code designation is the 10th digit.

On the models covered by this manual the engine codes are: eg ee ES, 2.0L 4-cyl SOHC

veeerstereterecs revetotes 2.5L V6 SOHC X niitearenee ets 2.4L 4-cyl DOHC On the models covered by this manual the model year codes are:

Di ecensesscesnevtesessesuers WV vstevadeseetee caeeentees V ste ine seeeee tees texess Wioas Pee ececttecteeece

1995 1996 1997 1998

SSS

The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is stamped into a metal plate fastened to the dashboard on the driver’s side - it’s visible through the windshield

The Body Code Plate is mounted to the right hand shock tower in the engine compartment

Vehicle identification numbers

ENGINE

On 2.0L four-cylinder engines, the engine identification number is stamped on the left rear of the engine block (behind the starter motor)

The Vehicle Safety Certification label is affixed to the rear edge of the driver’s door

ENGINE

IDENTIFICATION LOCATION

hens,

FILTER

ENGINE SERIAL NUMBER \ AND VIN NUMBER

WM 2.4L four-cylinder engine identification number locations

Body Code Plate The Body Code Plate is a stamped metal plate attached to the driver’s side shock tower in the engine compartment (see illustration). It contains more specific information about the manufacturing of the vehicle such as the paint code, trim code and vehicle order number, as well as the VIN.

Vehicle Safety Certification label The Vehicle Safety Certification label is attached to the driver’s side door end (see illustration). The label contains the name of the manufacturer, the month and year of production, the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) and the certification statement.

Engine identification numbers The 2.0L and 2.4L four-cylinder engine

On V6 engines, the engine identification number is located on the rear of the engine block just below the cylinder head

identification numbers can be found stamped on a machined pad on the left rear of the engine block. 2.5L V6 engine identification is located on the rear of the engine block just below the cylinder head (see illustrations).

Transaxle identification numbers The transaxle identification information can be found on a bar code label located on the front of the transaxle (see illustration).

Vehicle Emissions Control

Information (VECI) label The emissions control information label is found under the hood, normally on the radiator support or the bottom side of the hood. This label contains information on the emissions control equipment installed on the vehicle, as well as tune-up specifications (see Chapter 6 for more information).

BAR CODE LABEL The transaxle identification number can be found on the side of the case (as shown) or the top of the bell housing

0-8

Buying parts oh

Replacement parts are available from many sources, which generally fall into one of two

categories

- authorized

dealer

parts

departments and independent retail auto parts stores. Our advice concerning these parts is as follows: Retail auto parts stores: Good auto parts stores will stock frequently needed components which wear out relatively fast, such as clutch components, exhaust systems, brake parts, tune-up parts, etc. These stores often supply new or reconditioned

‘

unique to the vehicle and not generally available elsewhere (such as major engine parts, transmission parts, trim pieces, etc.). Warranty information: |f the vehicle is still covered under warranty, be sure that any replacement parts purchased - regardless of the source - do not invalidate the warranty! To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, have engine and chassis numbers available and, if possible, take the old parts along for positive identification.

parts on an exchange basis, which can save a considerable amount of money. Discount auto parts stores are often very good places to buy materials and parts needed for general vehicle maintenance such as oil, grease, filters, spark plugs, belts, touch-up paint, bulbs, etc. They also usually sell tools and general accessories, have convenient hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home. Authorized dealer parts department: This is the best source for parts which are

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Maintenance techniques There are a number of techniques involved in maintenance and repair that will be referred to throughout this manual. Application of these techniques will enable the home mechanic to be more efficient, better organized and capable of performing the various tasks properly, which will ensure that the repair job is thorough and complete.

removed from an assembly, should always be replaced exactly as removed. Replace any damaged washers with new ones. Never use a lockwasher on any soft metal surface (such as aluminum), thin sheet metal or plastic.

Most automotive machine shops can perform this task, as well as other repair procedures, such as the repair of threaded holes that have been stripped out. Flat washers and lockwashers, when

Fasteners Fasteners

Fi \

are

nuts,

bolts,

studs

and

screws used to hold two or more: parts together. There are a few things to keep in mind when working with fasteners. Almost all of them use a locking device of some type, either a lockwasher,

Grade 5

Grade 1 or 2

Grade 8

locknut, locking tab or

thread adhesive. All threaded fasteners should be clean and straight, with undamaged threads and undamaged corners on the hex head where the wrench fits. Develop the habit of replacing all damaged nuts and bolts with new ones. Special locknuts with nylon or fiber inserts can only be used once. If they are removed, they lose their locking ability and must be replaced with new ones.

Rusted nuts and bolts should be treated

Bolt strength marking (standard/SAE/USS; bottom - metric)

Grade

Hex Nut

removed with a special nut breaker, available

Sse

bly, it can be drilled and removed with a spe-

cial tool commonly available for this purpose.

Grade

Identification

Si

with a penetrating fluid to ease removal and prevent breakage. Some mechanics use turpentine in a spout-type oil can, which works quite well. After applying the rust penetrant, let it work for a few minutes before trying to loosen the nut or bolt. Badly rusted fasteners may have to be chiseled or sawed off or at tool stores. If a bolt or stud breaks off in an assem-

Identification

Hex Nut

Grade 5

Hex Nut

(

)

;

Property Class 9

3 Dots

e

LEE a

q

\S

y,

Hex Nut Property

Class 10

/ ‘e)

( :

) j

6 Dots Standard hex nut strength markings

8.8

Arabic 10

Metric hex nut strength markings

Metric stud strength markings 00-1 HAYNES

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Fastener sizes For a number of reasons, automobile manufacturers are making wider and wider use of metric fasteners. Therefore, it is important to be able to tell the difference between Standard (sometimes called U.S. or SAE) and metric hardware, since they cannot be interchanged. All bolts, whether standard or metric, are sized according to diameter, thread pitch and length. For example, a standard 1/2 - 13 x 1 bolt is 1/2 inch in diameter, has 13 threads per inch and is 1 inch long. An M12 - 1.75 x 25 metric bolt is 12 mm in diameter, has a thread pitch of 1.75 mm (the distance between threads) and is 25 mm long. The two bolts are nearly identical, and easily confused, but they are not interchangeable. In addition to the differences in diameter, thread pitch and length, metric and standard bolts can also be distinguished by examining the bolt heads. To begin with, the distance across the flats on a standard bolt head is measured in inches, while the same dimension on a metric bolt is sized in millimeters (the same is true for nuts). As a result, a standard wrench should not be used ona metric bolt and a metric wrench should not be used on a standard bolt. Also, most standard bolts have slashes radiating out from the center of the head to denote the grade or strength of the bolt, which is an indication of the amount of torque that can be applied to it. The greater the number of slashes, the greater the strength of the bolt. Grades 0 through 5 are commonly used on automobiles.

Metric

bolts

have

a property

Metric thread sizes

Ft-Ibs

Nm

6 to 9

9 to 12

14 to 21

19 to 28

28 to 40

38 to 54

50 to 71

68 to 96

80 to 140

109 to 154

5to8

7 to 10

12 to 18

17 to 24

22 to 33

30 to 44

ZOOS)

34 to 47

6 to 9

9to 12

12 to 18

17 to 24

14 to 20

19 to 27

22 27 40 40 55

30 to 43 StOlai 55 to 74 55 to 81 75 to 108

to to to to to

32 38 55 60 80

T—>||

STARTERS

Lae

56

class

(grade) number, rather than a slash, molded into their heads to indicate bolt strength. In this case, the higher the number, the stronger the bolt. Property class numbers 8.8, 9.8 and 10.9 are commonly used on automobiles. Strength markings can also be used to distinguish standard hex nuts from metric hex nuts. Many standard nuts have dots stamped into one side, while metric nuts are marked with a number. The greater the num-

ber of dots, or the higher the number, the greater the strength of the nut. Metric studs are also marked on their ends according to property class (grade). Larger studs are numbered (the same as metric bolts), while smaller studs carry a geometric code to denote grade. It should be noted that many fasteners, especially Grades 0 through 2, have no distinguishing marks on them. When such is the case, the only way to determine whether it is standard or.metric is to measure the thread pitch or compare it to a known fastener of the same size. Standard fasteners are often referred to as SAE, as opposed to metric. However, it should be noted that SAE technically refers to a non-metric fine thread fastener only. Coarse thread non-metric fasteners are referred to as USS sizes. Since fasteners of the same size (both standard and metric) may have different

00-2 HAYNES

Standard (SAE and USS) bolt dimensions/grade marks

Grade marks (bolt strength) Length (in inches) yr Thread pitch (number of threads per inch) D Nominal diameter (in inches) strength ratings, be sure to reinstall any bolts, studs or nuts removed from your vehicle in their original locations. Also, when replacing a fastener with a new one, make sure that the new one has a strength rating equal to or greater than the original.

Tightening sequences and procedures Most threaded fasteners should be tightened to a specific torque value (torque is the twisting force applied to a threaded component such as a nut or bolt). Overtightening the fastener can weaken it and cause it to break, while undertightening can cause it to eventually come loose. Bolts, screws and studs, depending on the material they are

Metric bolt dimensions/grade marks P_ L T D

Property class (bolt strength) Length (in millimeters) Thread pitch (distance between threads in millimeters) Diameter

made of and their thread diameters, specific torque values,

many

of which

have are

noted in the Specifications at the beginning of each Chapter. Be sure to follow the torque recommendations closely. For fasteners not assigned a specific torque, a general torque value chart is presented here as a guide. These torque values are for dry (unlubricated) fasteners threaded into steel or cast iron (not aluminum). As was previously mentioned, the size and grade of a fastener determine the amount of torque that can safely be applied to it. The figures listed here are approximate for Grade 2 and Grade 3 fasteners. Higher grades can tolerate higher torque values. Fasteners laid out in a pattern, such as cylinder head bolts, oil pan bolts, differential cover bolts, etc., must be loosened or tight-

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Dial indicator set

Micrometer set

ened in sequence to avoid warping the component. This sequence will normally be shown in the appropriate Chapter. If a specific pattern is not given, the following procedures can be used to prevent warping. Initially, the bolts or nuts should be assembled finger-tight only. Next, they should be tightened one full turn each, in a criss-cross or diagonal pattern. After each one has been tightened one full turn, return to the first one and tighten them all one-half turn,

following

the

same

pattern.

Finally,

tighten each of them one-quarter turn at a time until each fastener has been tightened to the proper torque. To loosen and remove the fasteners, the procedure would be reversed.

Component disassembly Component disassembly should be done with care and purpose to help ensure that the parts go back together properly. Always keep track of the sequence in which parts are removed. Make note of special characteristics or marks on parts that can be installed more than one way, such as a grooved thrust washer on a shaft. It is a good idea to lay the disassembled parts out on a clean surface in the order that they were removed. It may also be helpful to make sketches or take instant photos of components before removal. When removing fasteners from a component, keep track of their locations. Sometimes threading a bolt back in a part, or putting the washers and nut back on a stud, can prevent mix-ups later. If nuts and bolts cannot be returned to their original locations, they should be kept in a compartmented box or a series of small boxes. A cupcake or muffin tin is ideal for this purpose, since each cavity can hold the bolts and nuts from a particular area (i.e. oil pan bolts, valve cover bolts, engine mount bolts, etc.). A pan of this type is especially helpful when working on assemblies with very small parts, such as the carburetor, alternator, valve train or interior

dash and trim pieces. The cavities can be marked with paint or tape to identify the contents. Whenever wiring looms, harnesses or connectors are separated, it is a good idea to

identify the two halves with numbered pieces of masking tape so they can be easily reconnected.

Gasket sealing surfaces Throughout any vehicle, gaskets are used to seal the mating surfaces between two parts and keep lubricants, fluids, vacuum or pressure contained in an assembly. Many times these gaskets are coated with a liquid or paste-type gasket sealing compound before assembly. Age, heat and pressure can sometimes cause the two parts to stick together so tightly that they are very difficult to separate. Often, the assembly can be loosened by striking it with a soft-face hammer near the mating surfaces. A regular hammer can be used if a block of wood is placed between the hammer and the part. Do not hammer on cast parts or parts that could be easily damaged. With any particularly stubborn part, always recheck to make sure that every fastener has been removed. Avoid using a screwdriver or bar to pry apart an assembly, as they can easily mar the gasket sealing surfaces of the parts, which must remain smooth. If prying is absolutely necessary, use an old broom handle, but keep in mind that extra clean up will be necessary if the wood splinters.

After the parts are separated, the old gasket must be carefully scraped off and the gasket surfaces cleaned. Stubborn gasket material can be soaked with rust penetrant or treated with a special chemical to soften it so it can be easily scraped off. A scraper can be fashioned from a piece of copper tubing by flattening and sharpening one end. Copper is recommended because it is usually softer than the surfaces to be scraped, which reduces the chance of gouging the part. Some gaskets can be removed with a wire brush, but regardless of the method used, the mating surfaces must be left clean and smooth. If for some reason the gasket surface is gouged, then a gasket sealer thick enough to fill scratches will have to be used during reassembly of the components. For most applications, a non-drying (or semi-drying) gasket sealer should be used.

Hose removal tips Warning: /f the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, do not disconnect any of the A/C hoses without first having the system depressurized by a dealer service department or a service station. Hose removal precautions closely parallel gasket removal precautions. Avoid scratching or gouging the surface that the hose mates against or the connection may leak. This is especially true for radiator hoses. Because of various chemical reactions, the rubber in hoses can bond itself to the metal spigot that the hose fits over. To remove a hose, first loosen the hose clamps that secure it to the spigot. Then, with slip-joint pliers, grab the hose at the clamp and rotate it around the spigot. Work it back and forth until it is completely free, then pull it off. Silicone or other lubricants will ease removal if they can be applied between the hose and the outside of the spigot. Apply the same lubricant to the inside of the hose and the outside of the spigot to simplify installation. As a last resort (and if the hose is to be replaced with a new one anyway), the rubber can be slit with a knife and the hose peeled from the spigot. If this must be done, be careful that the metal connection is not damaged. If a hose clamp is broken or damaged, do not reuse it. Wire-type clamps usually weaken with age, so it is a good idea to replace them with screw-type clamps whenever a hose is removed.

Tools A selection of good tools is a basic requirement for anyone who plans to maintain and repair his or her own vehicle. For the owner who has few tools, the initial investment might seem high, but when compared to the spiraling costs of professional auto maintenance and repair, it is a wise one. To help the owner decide which tools are needed to perform the tasks detailed in this manual, the following tool lists are offered:

Maintenance

and

minor

Repair/overhaul and Special. The newcomer to practical

repair,

mechanics

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

0-11

Dial caliper

Timing light

Compression gauge with spark plug

General purpose puller

hole adapter

Ridge reamer

Valve spring compressor

Valve spring compressor

Piston ring groove cleaning tool

Ring removal/installation tool

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

0-12

Ring compressor

Cylinder hone

Brake hold-down spring tool

Brake cylinder hone

Clutch plate alignment tool

Tap and die set

should start off with the maintenance and minor repair tool kit, which is adequate for the simpler jobs performed on a vehicle. Then, as confidence and experience grow, the owner can tackle more difficult tasks, buying additional tools as they are needed. Eventually the basic kit will be expanded into the repair and overhaul tool set. Over a period of time, the experienced do-it-yourselfer will assemble a tool set complete enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the special category when it is felt that the expense is justified by the frequency of use.

Phillips screwdriver (No. 2 x 6 inch) Combination pliers - 6 inch Hacksaw and assortment of blades

it has the capacity of accepting a very wide range of large sockets. Ideally, however, the mechanic should have a 3/8-inch drive set and a 1/2-inch drive set.

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit The tools in this list should be considered the minimum required for performance of routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair work. We recommend the purchase of combination wrenches (box-end and openend combined in one wrench). While more expensive than open end wrenches, they offer the advantages of both types of wrench.

Combination wrench set (1/4-inch to 71 inch or 6 mm to 19 mm) Adjustable wrench, 8 inch Spark plug wrench with rubber insert Spark plug gap adjusting tool Feeler gauge set Brake bleeder wrench Standard screwdriver (5/16-inch x 6 inch)

Tire pressure gauge

Grease gun Oil can Fine emery cloth Wire brush Battery post and cable cleaning tool Oil filter wrench Funnel (medium size) Safety goggles Jackstands (2) Drain pan Note: /f basic tune-ups are going to be part of routine maintenance,

it will be necessary to

purchase a good quality stroboscopic timing

light and combination tachometer/dwell meter. Although they are included in the list of special tools, it is mentioned here because they are absolutely necessary for tuning most vehicles properly.

Repair and overhaul tool set These tools are essential for anyone who plans to perform major repairs and are in addition to those in the maintenance and minor repair tool kit. Included is a comprehensive set of sockets which, though expensive, are invaluable because of their versatility, especially when various extensions and drives are available. We recommend the 1/2inch drive over the 3/8-inch drive. Although the larger drive is bulky and more expensive,

Socket set(s) Reversible ratchet Extension - 10 inch Universal joint Torque wrench (same size drive as sockets) Ball peen hammer - 8 ounce Soft-face hammer (plastic/rubber) Standard screwdriver (1/4-inch x 6 inch) Standard screwdriver (stubby 5/16-inch) Phillips screwdriver (No. 3 x 8 inch) Phillips screwdriver (stubby - No. 2) Pliers - vise grip Pliers - lineman’s Pliers - needle nose Pliers - snap-ring (internal and external) Cold chisel - 1/2-inch Scribe Scraper (made from flattened copper tubing) Centerpunch

Pin punches (1/16, 1/8, 3/16-inch) Stee! rule/straightedge - 12 inch Allen wrench set (1/8 to 3/8-inch or 4mm to 10 mm) A selection of files Wire brush (large) Jackstands (second set) Jack (scissor or hydraulic type)

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Note: Another too! which is often useful is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of 3/8-inch and a set of good quality drill bits.

Special tools The tools in this list include those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturer’s instructions. Unless these tools will be used frequently, it is not very economical to purchase many of them. A consideration would be to split the cost and use between yourself and a friend or friends. In addition, most of these tools can be obtained from a tool rental shop on a temporary basis. This list primarily contains only those tools and instruments widely available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer for distribution to dealer service departments. Occasionally, references to the manufacturer’s special tools are included in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the special tool is offered. However, sometimes there is no alternative to their use. Where this is the case, and the tool cannot be purchased or borrowed, the work should be turned over to the dealer service department or an automotive repair shop. Valve spring compressor Piston ring groove cleaning tool Piston ring compressor Piston ring installation tool Cylinder compression gauge Cylinder ridge reamer Cylinder surfacing hone Cylinder bore gauge Micrometers and/or dial calipers Hydraulic lifter removal too! Balljoint separator Universal-type puller Impact screwdriver Dial indicator set Stroboscopic timing light (inductive pick-up) Hand operated vacuum/pressure pump Tachometer/dwell meter Universal electrical multimeter Cable hoist Brake spring removal and installation tools Floor jack

Buying tools For the do-it-yourselfer who is just starting to get involved in vehicle maintenance and repair, there are a number of options available when purchasing tools. If maintenance and minor repair is the extent of the work to be done, the purchase of individual tools is satisfactory. If, on the other hand, extensive work is planned, it would be a good idea to purchase a modest tool set from one of the large retail chain stores. A set can usually be bought at a substantial savings over the individual tool prices, and they often come with a tool box. As additional tools are

needed, add-on sets, individual tools and a larger tool box can be purchased to expand the tool selection. Building a tool set gradually allows the cost of the tools to be spread over a longer period of time and gives the mechanic the freedom to choose only those tools that will actually be used. Tool stores will often be the only source of some of the special tools that are needed, but regardless of where tools are bought, try to avoid cheap ones, especially when buying screwdrivers and sockets, because they won't last very long. The expense involved in replacing cheap tools will eventually be greater than the initial cost of quality tools.

Care and maintenance of tools Good tools are expensive, so it makes sense to treat them with respect. Keep them clean and in usable condition and store them properly when not in use. Always wipe off any dirt, grease or metal chips before putting them away. Never leave tools lying around in the work area. Upon completion of a job, always check closely under the hood for tools that may have been left there so they won’t get lost during a test drive. Some tools, such as screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches and sockets, can be hung ona

panel mounted on the garage or workshop wall, while others should be kept in a tool box or tray. Measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc. must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged by weather or impact from other tools. When tools are used with care and stored properly, they will last a very long time.

Even

with the best of care, though,

tools will wear out if used frequently. When a tool is damaged or worn out, replace it. Subsequent jobs will be safer and more enjoyable if you do.

How to repair damaged threads Sometimes, the internal threads of a nut

or bolt hole can become stripped, usually from overtightening. Stripping threads is an all-too-common occurrence, especially when working with aluminum parts, because aluminum is so soft that it easily strips out. Usually, external or internal threads are only partially stripped. After they’ve been cleaned up with a tap or die, they’ll still work. Sometimes, however, threads are badly damaged. When this happens, you’ve got three choices: 1) Drill and tap the hole to the next suitable oversize and install a larger diameter bolt, screw or stud. 2) Drill and tap the hole to accept a threaded plug, then drill and tap the plug to the original screw size. You can also buy a plug already threaded to the origi-

nal size. Then you simply drill a hole to the specified size, then run the threaded plug into the hole with a bolt and jam

nut.

0-13 Once

the plug

is fully seated,

remove the jam nut and bolt.

3) The

third

method

uses

a patented

thread repair kit like Heli-Coil or Slimsert.

These easy-to-use kits are designed to repair damaged threads in straightthrough holes and blind holes. Both are available as kits which can handle a variety of sizes and thread patterns. Drill the hole,

then

tap

it with

the

special

included tap. Install the Heli-Coil and the hole is back to its original diameter and thread pitch. Regardless of which method you use, be sure to proceed calmly and carefully. A little impatience or carelessness during one of these relatively simple procedures can ruin your whole day’s work and cost you a bundle if you wreck an expensive part.

Working facilities Not to be overlooked when discussing tools is the workshop. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some sort of suitable work area is essential. It is understood, and appreciated, that many home mechanics do not have a good workshop or garage available, and end up removing an engine or doing major repairs outside.

It is recommended,

however, that

the overhaul or repair be completed the cover of a roof.

under

A clean, flat workbench or table of com-

fortable working height is an absolute necessity. The workbench should be equipped with a vise that has a jaw opening of at least four inches. As mentioned previously, some clean, dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as the lubricants, fluids, cleaning solvents, etc. which soon become necessary.

Sometimes waste oil and fluids, drained from the engine or cooling system during normal maintenance or repairs, present a disposal problem. To avoid pouring them on the ground or into a sewage system, pour the used fluids into large containers, seal them with caps and take them to an authorized disposal site or recycling center. Plastic jugs, such as old antifreeze containers, are ideal for this purpose. Always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean rags available. Old towels are excellent for mopping up spills. Many mechanics use rolls of paper towels for most work because they are readily available and disposable. To help keep the area under the vehicle clean, a large cardboard

box can be

cut open and flattened to protect the garage or shop floor. Whenever working over a painted surface, such as when leaning over a fender to service something under the hood, always cover it with an old blanket or bedspread to protect the finish. Vinyl covered pads, made especially for this purpose, are available at auto parts stores.

0-14

Booster battery (jump) starting Observe these precautions when using a booster battery to start a vehicle:

a) Before connecting the booster battery, make sure the ignition switch is in the OFF position. b) Turn off the lights, heater and other electrical loads. c) Your eyes should be shielded. Safety goggles are a good idea. d) Make sure the booster battery is the same voltage as the dead one in the vehicle.

e) The two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other! f) Make sure the transaxle is in Neutral (manual) or Park (automatic). g) If the booster battery is not a maintenance-free type, remove the vent caps and lay a cloth over the vent holes.

The battery on these vehicles is located inside the wheel well of the left front fender. Due to the lack of accessibility, remote battery connections are provided inside the engine compartment for jumpstarting and easy battery disconnection (see illustration). Connect the red colored jumper cable to the positive (+) terminal of booster battery and the other end to the positive (+) remote terminal inside the engine compartment. Then connect one end of the black colored jumper cable to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery

and other end of the cable to the negative (-) remote terminal. Start the engine using the booster battery, then, with the engine running at idle speed, disconnect the jumper cables in the reverse order of connection.

ee

The eee matey pilin ekg are locatedinthe engine pcb ah tal ah i ae Ni“ when connecting jumper cables connect the cable to the positive terminal first, then the negative terminal

0-15

Jacking and towing Jacking

attempt to tighten them completely until the

Warning: The jack supplied with the vehicle should only be used for changing a tire or placing jackstands under the frame. Never work under the vehicle or start the engine while this jack is being used as the only means of support. The vehicle should be on level ground. Place the shift lever in Park, if you have an automatic, or Reverse if you have a manual transaxle. Block the wheel diagonally opposite the wheel being changed. Set the parking

vehicle is lowered or it could slip off the jack.

brake. Remove the spare tire and jack from stowage. Remove the wheel cover and trim ring (if so equipped) with the tapered end of the lug nut wrench by inserting and twisting the handle and then prying against the back of the wheel cover. Loosen the wheel lug nuts about 1/4-to-1/2 turn each. Place the scissors-type jack under the side of the vehicle and adjust the jack height until it fits in the notch in the vertical rocker panel flange nearest the wheel to be changed. There is a front and rear jacking point on each side of the vehicle (see illustration). Turn the jack handle clockwise until the tire clears the ground. Remove the lug nuts and pull the wheel off. Replace it with the spare. Install the lug nuts with the beveled edges facing in. Tighten them snugly. Don’t

Turn the jack handle counterclockwise to lower the vehicle. Remove the jack and tighten the lug nuts in a diagonal pattern. Install the cover (and trim ring, if used) and be sure it’s snapped into place all the way around. Stow the tire, jack and wrench. Unblock

the wheels.

Towing As a general rule, the vehicle should be towed with the front (drive) wheels off the ground. If they can’t be raised, place them on a dolly. The ignition key must be in the ACC position, since the steering lock mechanism isn’t strong enough to hold the front wheels straight while towing. Vehicles equipped with an automatic transaxle can be towed from the front only with all four wheels on the ground, provided that speeds don’t exceed 25 mph and the distance is not over 15 miles. Before towing, check the transmission fluid level (see Chapter 1). If the level is below the HOT line on the dipstick, add fluid or use a towing dolly. Caution: Never tow a vehicle with an automatic transaxle from the rear with the front wheels on the ground. When towing a vehicle equipped with a manual transaxle with all four wheels on the ground, be sure to place the shift lever in

BPO

The jack fits over the rocker panel flange (there are two jacking points on each side of the vehicle, indicated by a notch in the rocker panel flange)

Neutral and release the parking brake. Equipment specifically designed for towing should be used. It should be attached to the main structural members of the vehicle, not the bumpers, brackets or suspension. Safety is a major consideration when towing and all applicable state and local laws must be obeyed. A safety chain system must be used at all times.

0-16

Automotive chemicals and lubricants A number of automotive chemicals and lubricants are available for use during vehicle maintenance and repair. They include a wide variety of products ranging from cleaning solvents and degreasers to lubricants and protective sprays for rubber, plastic and vinyl.

Cleaners Carburetor cleaner and choke cleaner is a strong solvent for gum, varnish and carbon. Most carburetor cleaners leave a drytype lubricant film which will not harden or gum up. Because of this film it is not recommended for use on electrical components. Brake system cleaner is used to remove grease and brake fluid from the brake system, where clean surfaces are absolutely necessary. It leaves no residue and often eliminates brake squeal caused by contaminants. Electrical cleaner

removes

oxidation,

corrosion and carbon deposits from electrical contacts, restoring full current flow. It can also be used to clean spark plugs, carburetor Jets, voltage regulators and other parts where an oil-free surface is desired. Demoisturants remove water and moisture from electrical components such as alternators, voltage regulators, electrical connectors and fuse blocks. They are non-conductive, non-corrosive and non-flammable.

Degreasers are heavy-duty solvents used to remove grease from the outside of the engine and from chassis components. They can be sprayed or brushed on and, depending on the type, are rinsed off either with water or solvent.

Lubricants Motor oil is the lubricant formulated for use In engines. It normally contains a wide variety of additives to prevent corrosion and reduce foaming and wear. Motor oil comes in various weights (viscosity ratings) from 0 to 50. The recommended weight of the oil depends on the season, temperature and the demands on the engine. Light oil is used in cold climates and under light load conditions. Heavy oil is used in hot climates and where high loads are encountered. Multi-viscosity oils are designed to have characteristics of both light and heavy oils and are available in a number of weights from 5W-20 to 20W-50. Gear oil is designed to be used in differentials, manual transmissions and other areas where high-temperature lubrication is required. Chassis and wheel bearing grease is a heavy grease used where increased loads and friction are encountered, such as for wheel bearings, bailjoints, tie-rod ends and

universal joints. High-temperature wheel bearing grease is designed to withstand the extreme temperatures encountered by wheel bearings

in disc brake equipped vehicles. It usually contains molybdenum disulfide (moly), which is a dry-type lubricant. White grease is a heavy grease for metal-to-metal applications where water is a problem. White grease stays soft under both low and high temperatures (usually from -100 to +190-degrees F), and will not wash off or dilute in the presence of water.

Assembly lube is a special extreme pressure lubricant, usually containing moly,

used to lubricate high-load parts (such as main and rod bearings and cam lobes) for initial start-up of a new engine. The assembly lube lubricates the parts without being squeezed out or washed away until the engine oiling system begins to function. Silicone lubricants are used to protect rubber, plastic, vinyl and nylon parts.

Graphite lubricants are used where oils cannot be used due to contamination problems, such as in locks. The dry graphite will lubricate metal parts while remaining uncontaminated

by dirt, water, oil or acids.

It is

electrically conductive and will not foul electrical contacts in locks such as the ignition switch. i Moly penetrants loosen and lubricate frozen,

rusted

and corroded

fasteners

and

prevent future rusting or freezing. Heat-sink grease is a special electrically non-conductive grease that is used for mounting electronic ignition modules where it is essential that heat is transferred away from the module.

Sealants RTV sealant is one of the most widely used gasket compounds. Made from silicone,

RTV

is air curing,

it seals,

bonds,

waterproofs, fills surface irregularities, remains flexible, doesn’t shrink, is relatively easy to remove, and is used as a supplementary sealer with almost all low and medium temperature gaskets. Anaerobic sealant is much like RTV in that it can be used either to seal gaskets or to form gaskets by itself. It remains flexible, is solvent resistant and fills surface imperfections. The difference between an anaerobic sealant and an RTV-type sealant is in the curing. RTV cures when exposed to air, while an anaerobic sealant cures only in the absence of air. This means that an anaerobic sealant cures only after the assembly of parts, sealing them together. Thread and pipe sealant is used for sealing hydraulic and pneumatic fittings and vacuum lines. It is usually made from a Teflon compound, and comes in a spray, a paint-on liquid and as a wrap-around tape.

Chemicals Anti-seize compound prevents seizing, galling, cold welding, rust and corrosion in

fasteners. High-temperature ant-seize,:usually made with copper and graphite Jubricants, is used for exhaust system and exhaust manifold bolts. Anaerobic locking compounds are used to keep fasteners from vibrating or working loose and cure only after installation, in the absence of air. Medium strength locking compound is used for small nuts, bolts and screws that may be removed later. Highstrength locking compound is for large nuts, bolts and studs which aren’t removed on a regular basis. Oil additives range from viscosity index improvers to chemical treatments that claim to reduce internal engine friction. It should be noted that most oil manufacturers caution against using additives with their oils. Gas additives perform several functions, depending on their chemical makeup. They usually contain solvents that help dissolve gum and varnish that build up on carburetor, fuel injection and intake parts. They also serve to break down carbon deposits that form on the inside surfaces of the combustion chambers. Some additives contain upper cylinder lubricants for valves and piston rings, and others contain chemicals to remove condensation from the gas tank.

Miscellaneous Brake fluid is specially formulated hydraulic fluid that can withstand the heat and pressure encountered in brake systems. Care must be taken so this fluid does not come in contact with painted surfaces or plastics. An opened container should always be resealed to prevent contamination by water or dirt. Weatherstrip adhesive is used to bond weatherstripping around doors, windows and trunk lids. It is sometimes used to attach trim pieces. Undercoating is a petroleum-based, tar-like substance that is designed to protect metal surfaces on the underside of the vehicle from corrosion. It also acts as a sounddeadening agent by insulating the bottom of the vehicle. Waxes and polishes are used to help protect painted and plated surfaces from the weather. Different types of paint may require the use of different types of wax and polish. Some polishes utilize a chemical or abrasive cleaner to help remove the top layer of oxidized (dull) paint on older vehicles. In recent years many non-wax polishes that contain a wide variety of chemicals such as polymers

and silicones have been introduced. These non-wax polishes are usually easier to apply and last longer than conventional waxes and polishes.

0-17

Conversion factors Re seed Length (distance) Inches (in) Feet (ft) Miles

25.4

X

0.0394

X X

3.281 0.621

= Feet (ft) =Miles

‘16.387 = Cubic centimetres (cc; cm’)

X

.0.568 1.137

0.061

=Cubic inches (cu in; in*)

x Xx

1.76 0.88

X

0.833

= Imperial pints (Imp pt) = Imperial quarts (Imp qt)

=Imperial quarts (Imp qt)

X x X

1.057 0.22 0.833

=US quarts (US qt) = Imperial gallons (Imp gal) =Imperial gallons (Imp gal)

X

0.264

=US

= Grams (g) = Kilograms (kg)

X X

0.035 2.205

=Ounces (oz) = Pounds (Ib)

= Newtons (N) =Newtons (N) = Kilograms-force (kgf; kg)

x X Xx

3.6 0.225 9.81

= Ounces-force (ozf; oz) = Pounds-force (Ibf; Ib) = Newtons (N)

= Kilograms-force per square

X

14.223

= Pounds-force per square inch

X

14.696

= Pounds-force per square inch

0.305 1.609

=Millimetres (mm)

= Metres (m) = Kilometres (km)

=Inches (in)

Volume (capacity) Cubic inches (cu in; in’) Imperial pints (Imp pt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) US quarts (US qt) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) US gallons (US gal)

= Litres (1) = Litres (I)

1.201

=US quarts (US qt)

0.946 4.546 1.201

= Litres (I) = Litres (I) =US gallons (US gal)

KK KKK xx 3.785 = Litres (I)

gallons (US gal)

Mass (weight) Ounces (oz) Pounds (Ib)

XX x

28.35 0.454

Force Ounces-force (ozf; oz) Pounds-force (Ibf; Ib) Newtons (N)

0.278 4.448

ae

AIRBAG MOUNTING

BRACKET

20.7 Remove the steering wheel retaining nut

Steering wheel - removal and installation SPEED CONTROL SWITCH WIRE

Removal Refer to illustrations 20.3, 20.5a, 20.5b and

20.7 Warning: These models have airbags. Always disable the airbag system before working in the vicinity of the impact sensors, steering column or instrument panel to avoid the possibility of accidental deployment of the airbag, which could cause personal injury (see Chapter 12). 1 Park the vehicle with the front wheels pointing straight ahead. 2 Disconnect the negative battery cable from the ground stud on the left shock tower (see Chapter 5, Section 1). Wait at least two minutes before proceeding (the system has a back-up capacitor that must fully discharge). 3 Remove the two screws, one on each side of the steering wheel, which retain the airbag module to the steering wheel (see illustration). 4 Remove the airbag module from the steering wheel. Warning: When handling the airbag module, make sure that at no time any source of electricity is allowed near the inflator on the back of the airbag module; when carrying the airbag module, the trim cover must be pointed away from your body or any other person; if the airbag module is placed on a workbench or any other surface, the trim cover must face upwards. When removing the airbag module, tag or mark all fasteners, screws, bolts, and other parts for the airbag module with their location as removed, for correct installation later.

SPEED CONTROL SWITCH WIRE

5 Remove the lock from the airbag clockspring electrical connector and disconnect the electrical connector from the back of the airbag module (see illustrations). 6 Remove the screws on the rear of the steering wheel attaching the speed control switches and remove the speed control switches from the steering wheel. Disconnect the clockspring and horn ground wire from the airbag mounting bracket. 7 Remove the steering wheel retaining nut (see illustration). Mark the steering column shaft and the steering wheel for correct positioning when reinstalling later. 8 Remove the steering wheel with a steering wheel puller - do not bump or hammer on the steering wheel or steering column in an attempt to remove the wheel.

Installation 9 Before installing the steering wheel, make sure the airbag clockspring is centered. To do this, push in on the two locking pins to disengage the locking mechanism. While continuing to depress the pins, turn the clockspring rotor clockwise until it stops (don’t turn it with too much force or you could

damage it). Slowly turn the rotor counterclockwise until yellow appears in the centering window. The arrow on the rotor of the

clockspring should now be pointing at the yellow window on the clockspring. Release the locking pins to engage the locking mechanism. 10 Lower the steering wheel into position, feeding the clockspring wiring harness through the opening in the wheel. 11 Place the steering wheel on the shaft, aligning the marks. Also, make sure the flats on the hub of the steering wheel engage with the flats on the inside of the clockspring. Install the nut and tighten it to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 12 Correctly route and reconnect electrical connectors such as the speed control switch electrical leads from the clockspring to switch openings in the steering wheel. Connect the clockspring electrical leads to the speed control switches. Install the speed control switches in the steering wheel. Then

install and tighten the screws attaching the speed control switches. 13 Plug in the horn and airbag module electrical connectors. Press the speed control wires into the retaining channels on the steering wheel. 14 Install the airbag module electrical lead from the clockspring into the connector on the airbag module. Insert the locking tab in the back of the airbag module connector.

Chapter 10

Suspension and steering systems

10-17

TIE ROD END

OUTER TIE ROD

INNER TIE ROD HEAT SHIELD

STEERING KNUCKLE

Sn

TIE ROD END STUD SCO

21.2

21.4a While holding the ballstud with a wrench to prevent it from turning, loosen the nut

Loosen the tie-rod jam nut

15 Install the airbag module into the center of the steering wheel, aligning the airbag module alignment pins with the mating hole and slot in the steering wheel. Use the two original or factory replacement airbag module retaining bolts. Tighten the airbag module retaining bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. Warning: Make sure the electrical connector from the clockspring is securely latched into the airbag module connector. The fasteners, screws, bolts, and other parts for the airbag module are specifically designed and must never be replaced with anything other than genuine

to the marked

position and connect the tie-

rod end to the steering arm. Install the nut on the ballstud and tighten it to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications while holding the ballstud with a wrench to prevent it from turning. 7 Tighten the jam nut securely and install the wheel. Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts to the torque listed in the Chapter 1 Specifications. 8 Drive the vehicle to an alignment shop and have the front end alignment checked and, if necessary, adjusted.

factory part number repiacements.

16 Install the remote ground cable on the ground stud (at the underhood shock tower) to reapply battery power.

22

Steering gear and pressure switch - removal and installation

Steering gear 21

Tie-rod ends - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 21.2, 21.4a and 21.4b

Removal Refer to illustrations 22.3, 22.7a, 22.7b,

22.15, 22.16a and 22.16b

Installation

Warning: These models are equipped with airbags. Make sure the steering shaft is not turned while the steering gear is removed or you could damage the airbag system. To prevent the shaft from turning, turn the ignition key to the lock position before beginning work or run the seat belt through the steering wheel and clip the seat belt into place. Due to the possible damage to the airbag system, we recommend only experienced mechanics attempt this procedure. 1 Disconnect the negative battery cable from the ground stud on the left shock tower (see Chapter 5, Section 1). 2 Drain the power steering fluid from the remote power steering reservoir. This can be accomplished with a suction gun or large syringe, or by disconnecting the fluid hose and draining the fluid into a container. 3. From inside the vehicle under the dashboard, slide the steering shaft boot up from the floorboard area and remove the safety clip on the intermediate shaft pinch bolt. Then remove the pinch bolt (see illustration). 4 Mark the intermediate shaft and the steering gear shaft with alignment markings

6

for later installation. Then separate the inter-

Removal 1 Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Apply the parking brake and block the rear wheels to keep the vehicle from rolling off the jackstands. Remove the wheel. 2 Loosen the tie-rod end jam nut (see illustration). 3 Mark the relationship of the tie-rod end to the threaded portion of the tie-rod. This will ensure the toe-in setting is restored when reassembled. 4 _ Loosen the nut from the tie-rod end ballstud a few turns, while holding the ballstud

with a wrench (see illustration). Disconnect the tie-rod end from the steering knuckle arm with a puller (see illustration). 5 Remove the nut from the ballstud, sepa-

rate

the

tie-rod

end

from

the

steering

knuckle, then unscrew the tie-rod end from

the tie-rod.

Thread the tie-rod end onto the tie-rod

21.4b Using a puller, separate the ballstud from the knuckle

mediate shaft coupler from the steering gear shaft. 5 Loosen the front wheel lug nuts. Raise the vehicle and place it securely on jackstands. Remove both front wheels. 6 Detach the tie-rod ends from the steering knuckles (see Section 21).

10

“Wii 22.3 At the base of the steering column, slide the boot up and remove the retaining pin and pinch bolt (arrow)

10-18

Chapter 10 FRAME RAILTO CROSSMEMBER 22ATTACHING BRACKET

Suspension and steering systems

DRIVESHAFT

FRAME RAIL TO /KCROSSMEMBER , ATTACHING BRACKET

ni

Bae

FRONT SUSPENSION CROSSMEMBER

FRONT SUSPENSION \\

CROSSMEMBER TO BODY, === FRONT TO BACK! =—— LOCATING MARK’ INNER TIE

‘

i FRONT SUSPENSION _ ‘ Re ee ~ BODY FRONT

LOCATING MARK

FRONT LOWER

CONTROL ARM ——

FRONT SUSPENSION

CROSSMEMBER MOUNTING

BOLT

22.7a Scribe a locating mark from the front suspension crossmember to the attaching bracket (left side front shown) 7 Scribe marks showing the relationship of the front suspension crossmember to the crossmember attaching bracket (see illustrations). Be sure to mark each side, at the front and at the rear. 8 Remove the front stabilizer bar mounting clamp to body bolts. It is not necessary to remove the stabilizer bar clamp-to-front sus-

GEX a

ee

FRONT SUSPENSION

Vet)

DRIVESHAFT

22.7b Also mark the rear position of the crossmember (left side rear shown)

pension crossmember bolts. 9 For ABS-equipped vehicles, remove the three bolts attaching the Anti-lock Brake System hydraulic control unit to the front suspension crossmember. Using a length of wire, hang the hydraulic control unit from the body/engine. 10 Remove the left and right side shock absorber clevis bolts from the lower control arms. 11 Remove the two bolts from the engine support bracket attaching to the front edge of the suspension crossmember, and the two bolts attaching the rear support bracket at the rear of the suspension crossmember.

12 Remove the bolt attaching the engine support bracket to the transaxle mounting bracket. 13 Using a transmission jack or two floor jacks, support the front suspension crossmember. Lower the crossmember sufficiently to allow the steering gear to be removed.

22.15 If the vehicle is equipped with electronic module type speedsensing/variable assist power steering,

detach the electrical connectors (arrows)

t= CROSSMEMBER = eae _— LOWER CONTROL ARM

Note: Make sure you support the crossmember and do not allow it to hang from the lower control arms at any time. 14 Place a drain pan under the steering gear and detach the power steering pressure and return lines. Cap the ends to prevent excessive fluid loss and contamination. 15 Disconnect the pressure switch wiring

harness connector from the steering gear. On models equipped with the electronic speed sensing/variable assist steering, disconnect the speed sensing/variable assist module and solenoid control valve electrical connectors (see illustration). 16 Remove the two steering gear mounting

bolts and isolators at the crossmember and then remove the two steering gear-to-crossmember clamp bolts (see illustrations). 17 Remove the steering gear assembly from the vehicle.

Installation 18 If you’re installing a new steering gear assembly, carefully grasp the steering gear in your left hand and rotate the shaft counterclockwise with your right hand until the steering gear is in the full-left position. 19 Installation is the reverse of removal. Make sure you align the marks on the steering gear shaft with the marks on the intermediate shaft. Gently tap the front suspension crossmember into place, aligning it with the marks scribed during removal. Make sure the electrical connector(s) are fully connected with the connector locking tabs securely latched. Use a new steering gear intermediate shaft coupler pinch bolt, and make sure

the retention pin is installed in the bolt after

FRONT MOUNTING BOLT

VY

STEERING GEAR

BE:

\

—— hey =

FRONT SUSPENSION CROSSMEMBER

”) 22.16a

Steering gear-to-crossmember clamp bolts (lower arrow)

22.16b

Steering gear-to-crossmember mounting bolt

(front shown)

Chapter 10

23.11

The power steering fluid cooler is bolted to the bumper reinforcement bar (1996 and later models)

tightening the pinch bolt to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 20 Refill the power steering with power steering fluid (see Chapter 1), and bleed the system (See Section 24). 21 Install the wheel and lug nuts. Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts to the torque listed in the Chapter 1 Specifications. Drive the vehicle to an alignment shop to have the wheel alignment checked and, if necessary, adjusted.

Pressure switch 22 Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. 23 Remove the pressure switch electrical connector, located on the back side of the

power steering gear. 24 Place a drain pan under the power steering gear. Using a crow foot wrench, remove the pressure switch from the power steering gear. 25 Installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten the switch to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. Fill the power steering with the recommended power steering fluid (see Chapter 1), and bleed the system (see Section 24).

23

Power steering pump, cooler and hoses - removal and installation

ee i

Warning: Wait until the engine is completely cool before beginning any of these procedures. 1 Disconnect the negative battery cable from the ground stud on the left shock tower (see Chapter 5, Section 1).

Power steering fluid hoses 2

Suspension and steering systems

Raise the vehicle and support it securely

on jackstands. 3 Lower the front suspension crossmem-

ber sufficiently to access the steering gear hose connections (see Section 22). 4 Place a drain pan under the power steering gear. Disconnect the hose from the power steering gear and let the fluid drain

23.20

Remove the bolt at the power steering pump adjustment slot (arrow)

into the drain pan. Cap the hose and the

suck as much fluid out of the power steering

power steering gear port to prevent entry of

fluid reservoir as possible.

foreign material. 5 Remove power

16

brackets

or

steering

tie-straps

as

fluid

hose

necessary

to

remove the hose(s). 6 Disconnect the power steering hose(s) from the power steering pump. 7 Remove the hose(s) from the bottom of the vehicle. 8 Installation is the reverse of removal. Use new O-rings on the pressure hose fittings, lubricated with clean power steering fluid. Before installing, wipe clean all hose fittings and power steering pump and gear ports. When installing, do not fully tighten the fittings until the suspension crossmember is re-installed. Tighten the fittings when the entire hose is in place with brackets and tiestrap attached. Fill the power steering reservoir with the recommended power steering fluid (See Chapter 1), and bleed the system (see Section 24).

Power steering oil cooler (1996 and later models) Refer to illustration 23.11 9 Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. 10 Remove the front fascia and grill (see Chapter 11). 11. Place a drain pan under the oil cooler. Remove the hose clamps from the oil cooler (see illustration). 12 Drain the power steering fluid from the hoses and from the oil cooler. 13. Unbolt the oil cooler from the front bumper reinforcement bar. 14 Installation is the reverse of removal. Fill the power steering fluid reservoir with the recommended power steering fluid (see Chapter 1), and bleed the system after lowering the vehicle (see Section 24).

Power steering pump Refer to illustrations 23.20, 23.23, 23.24, 23.26, 23.27a, 23.27b and 23.27c 15

Using a large syringe or suction gun,

Loosen the right front wheel lug nuts.

Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands.

17 Remove the right front wheel. Also remove the right front wheel splash shield. 18 Place a drain pan under the vehicle to catch any fluid that spills out when the hoses are disconnected. 19 Disconnect the power steering pump hoses. Cap the hoses and the power steering pump ports. 20 Remove the bolt at the pump adjustment slot (see illustration). 21 Remove the bolt attaching the back of the power

steering pump

to the cast alu-

minum mounting bracket. 22 Remove the ABS hydraulic control unit heat shield adjacent to the power steering pump. 23

On

four-cylinder

models

with

ABS,

remove the wheel speed sensor cable bracket from the right front wheel well (see illustration). Then remove the grommet from the right front inner fender, disconnect the wheel speed sensor connector, and push the

wiring harness back through the hole in the

“be —_ SHOCK "FASC ABSORBER GROMMET RETAINER AND CABLE ROUTING} BRACKET

' STEERING KNUCKLE

WHEEL SPEED SENSOR CABLE

SPEED SENSOR ROUTING BRACKET

23.23 Remove the ABS speed sensor harness bracket from the right front wheel well and remove the grommet from the inner fender - four-cylinder models with ABS

10

10-20

Suspension and steering systems

Chapter 10

A

WHEEL SPEED SENSOR >, CABLE ROUTING HOLE

STEERING KNUCKLE

POWER STEERING /

FRAME

‘

~

@

DRIVEAXLE

ee

t

ae) FRONT SUSPENSION —— LOWER CONTROL ARM —— CROSSMEMBER

RATCHET 23.24 Use a 15mm flex socket with long extension inserted through the ABS sensor wiring harness hole in the inner fender to remove the bolt attaching the top of the power steering pump front bracket - four-cylinder models with ABS

23.26 Remove the power steering pump/mounting bracket assembly through the area between the rear of the engine, driveaxle and front suspension crossmember

inner fender and unclip the wiring harness from the frame rail. If the vehicle does not have ABS

REMOVAL

brakes, just remove the grommet

Ciiiiliivn

lili

PUMP PULLEY

POWER STEERING PUMP MOUNTING BOSS

23.27a If you’re installing a new pump, you’ll need a special puller to remove the pulley from the old pump...

ROTATE THIS WRENCH TO INSTALL PULLEY

On

four-cylinder

models

with

ABS,

insert a socket wrench with long extension and a 15mm flex socket through the ABS sensor wiring harness hole and remove the bolt attaching the top of the power steering pump front bracket to the cast aluminum mounting bracket (see illustration). 25 Remove the power steering pump drivebelt from the pump pulley. 26 Carefully remove the power steering pump and mounting bracket as an assembly through the area between the rear of the engine, driveaxle and front suspension crossmember (see illustration). 27 Installation is the reverse of removal. If you’re installing a new pump, you’ll need a

THIS WRENCH HELD STATIONARY WRENCH

special puller to remove the pulley from the old pump and another special tool (see illustrations) to install it on the new pump. These tools are available at most auto parts stores.

plug from the hole. 24

WRENCH

ee

First, loosely install mounting bolts and hose fittings. Note: The power steering pump pressure hose must be installed between the front bracket of the pump and the pump pulley. Mount the power steering drivebelt. Using a 1/2-inch drive breaker bar in the square adjustment hole of the pump, rotate the pump to the correct belt tension (see Chapter 1), hold the pump in position and tighten the bottom adjusting slot bolts and then tighten the top pivot bolt to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 28 Fill the power steering fluid reservoir with the recommended power steering fluid (see Chapter 1), and bleed the system (see Section 24).

SPACER IS TO BE SEATED FLUSH AGAINST PUMP SHAFT WHEN PULLEY 1S INSTALLED

SPACER

PULLEY PULLEY

PULLEY

23.27b

...and another special tool to install it on the new pump

POWER STEERING PUMP

23.27c

When installing the pulley on the new pump, make sure the spacer is fully seated as shown

Chapter 10

Suspension and steering systems

METRIC TIRE SIZES / 80 R 13 P-PASSENGER T-TEMPORARY C-COMMERCIAL

ASPECT RATIO (SECTION HEIGHT)

CAMBER

CASTER

RIM DIAMETER (INCHES)

(SECTION WIDTH) 70

SECTION WIDTH

75

(MILLIMETERS) 185 195 205 ETC

80

CONSTRUCTION

TYPE

R-RADIAL B-BIAS - BELTED D-DIAGONAL (BIAS)

FRONT OF VEHICLE

“"

Camber, caster and toe-in angles

26

Wheel alignment - general information

Refer to illustration 26.1 A wheel alignment refers to the adjustments made to the wheels so they are in proper angular relationship to the suspension and the ground. Wheels that are out of proper alignment not only affect vehicle control, but also increase tire wear. The alignment angles normally measured are camber, caster and toe-in (see illustration). Toe-in on the front, and toe-in and camber on the rear are the only adjustable angles on these vehicles. The other angles should be measured to check for bent or worn suspension parts. Wheel alignment is a very exacting process, one in which complicated and expensive machines are necessary to perform the job properly. You should have a technician with the proper equipment perform these tasks. We will, however,

use this space to

give you a basic idea of what is involved with a wheel alignment so you can better understand the process and deal intelligently with the shop that does the work. Toe-in is the turning in of the wheels. The purpose of a toe specification is to ensure parallel rolling of the wheels. In a vehicle with zero toe-in, the distance between the front edges of the wheels will be the same as the distance between the rear edges of the wheels. The actual amount of toe-in is normally only a fraction of an inch. On the front

10

10-22

Chapter 10

end, toe-in is controlled by the tie-rod end position on the tie-rod. On the rear end, it’s

controlled by a threaded adjuster on the rear lateral link. Incorrect toe-in will cause the tires

to wear improperly by making them scrub against the road surface. Camber is the tilting of the wheels from vertical when viewed from one end of the

Suspension and steering systems

vehicle. When the wheels tilt out at the top, the camber is said to be positive (+). When the wheels tilt in at the top the camber is negative (-). The amount of tilt is measured in degrees from vertical and this measurement

is called the camber angle. This angle affects the amount of tire tread which contacts the road and compensates for changes in the

suspension geometry when the vehicle is cornering or traveling over an undulating surface. Caster is the tilting of the front steering axis from the vertical. A tilt toward the rear is positive caster and a tilt toward the front is negative caster. ‘

11-1

Chapter 11

Body

Contents Section

Bodyeimaintenance sesee ten. 6 enn. Se vhaas ire cae eee eaaaeaah Body repair- major damage ...........c:ccccceeeesseeeeees ssSepreeahe Meet esnscanca Body repair- minor damage ...........:cccccceceeeeeeeeees i sbanghensbeneatuliaducnan Bumpers - removal and installation ...........:c00 =i staonte som cue tages Center console - removal and installation........... acs decpsnapanaabiuevancvens Cowl cover - removal and installation................. a aviaaten bas smn cuewacass ae Dashboard trim panels, glove box door handle and lock cylinder - removal and installation................. wentnesba an ticb ecunce cnc Door latch, outside handle and lock cylinder - removal, installation and adjustMent...........ccccccceeee vitieaeeoecon ea taoece cir: Door - removal and installation ...........c0:cccceeee we eau oceans gareueanies Door trim panel - removal and installation.......... spvagane aesteecsaeeeanias Door window glass - removal and installation sbdtcamneecneianse roe taaten Door window regulator - removal and installation aaeyccr sae cstesetwares GENT altintOnMatlOncereesee coerce - sete ease ree eee s = di seeerectectecccs tesa estes Hinges and locks - maintenance................ccceeeee sevaeereetca=enastectaces Hood - removal, installation and adjustment...... samoasedetearetsitonccshteds

2 6 5) WZ 26 28 21 14 ATA 13

Section

Hood latch and cable - removal and installation........ccccceeeeee. 10 Instrument cluster hood - removal and installation.....cccceeee. 22 Instrument panel - removal and installation .....0.cccceeeseeeeeseeee 23 Instrument panel top cover - removal and installation............... 20 Mirrors eiremovalland! inStallatiomssteesss.c tress rrcre.. sts eee eee Te Passenger airbag module - removal and installation................ 24 Radiator grille (Cirrus models) - removal and installation .............. 11 SC AUDOICH OC recess ctc erect tevear: coccans alte = ROMO tee eet Te ee eS seats sremovaland installationec::.:....0teereteemeeeeterrccccccseee ccs 29 Steering column covers - removal and installation ........c0cc0000. 25 Trunk latch and lock cylinder - removal and installation............... 19 Trunk lid, support strut, latch striker and release cable -

15

16 1 if 9

removal, installation and adjustment .............:ccccccceesseeeseereeee

18

Upholstery and carpets - MaiNteNance.............cccccesscessceesscenseeeeees Miaviutriiat ain aM LOM AN CG earreterectesereceteceattettee artezcrssteacceescenseseeee Windshield and fixed glass - replaceMent ............cscccesecesscesseeenseees

4 3 8

al sai nceennsttlleandinghy

1.

General information

The models covered by this manual feature a “unibody” layout, using a floor pan with front and rear frame side rails which support the body components, front and rear suspension systems and other mechanical components. Certain components are particularly vulnerable to accident damage and can be unbolted and repaired or replaced. Among these parts are the body moldings, bumpers, front fenders, the hood and trunk lids and all glass. Only general body maintenance practices and body panel repair procedures within the scope of the do-it-yourselfer are included in this Chapter.

2

Body - maintenance

1 The condition of the vehicle’s body is very important, because the resale value depends a great deal on it. It’s much more difficult to repair a neglected or damaged body than it is to repair mechanical components. The hidden areas of the body, such as the wheel wells, the frame and the engine compartment, are equally important, although they don’t require as frequent attention as the rest of the body. 2 Onceayear, or every 12,000 miles, it’s a good idea to have the underside of the body steam cleaned. All traces of dirt and oil will be removed and the area can then be inspected

carefully

for

rust,

damaged

brake

lines,

frayed electrical wires, damaged cables and other problems. The front suspension components should be greased after completion of this job. 3. At the same time, clean the engine and the engine compartment with a steam cleaner or water-soluble degreaser. 4 The wheel wells should be given close attention, since undercoating can peel away and stones and dirt thrown up by the tires can cause the paint to chip and flake, allowing rust to set in. If rust is found, clean down to the bare metal and apply an anti-rust paint. 5 The body should be washed about once a week. Wet the vehicle thoroughly to soften

the dirt, then wash it down with a soft sponge

11

11-2

Chapter 11

and plenty of clean soapy water. If the surplus dirt is not washed off very carefully, it can wear down the paint. 6 Spots of tar or asphalt thrown up from the road should be removed with a cloth soaked in solvent. 7 Once every six months, wax the body and chrome trim. If a chrome cleaner is used

in with a soft cotton cloth. Never use car wax on leather upholstery. 7 In areas where the interior of the vehicle is subject to bright sunlight, cover leather seating areas of the seats with a sheet if the

vehicle is to be left out for any length of time.

to remove rust from any of the vehicle’s plated

5

parts, remember that the cleaner also removes part of the chrome, so use it sparingly.

Repair of scratches

3.

Vinyl trim - maintenance Don’t clean vinyl trim with detergents,

caustic soap or petroleum-based cleaners. Plain soap and water works just fine, with a soft brush to clean dirt that may be ingrained. Wash the vinyl as frequently as the rest of the vehicle. After cleaning, application of a highquality rubber and vinyl protectant will help prevent oxidation and cracks. The protectant can also be applied to weatherstripping, vacuum lines and rubber hoses, which often fail as a result of chemical degradation, and to the tires.

4

Upholstery and carpets maintenance

Follow the directions and vacuum again, then

use a stiff brush to bring back the “nap” of the carpet. 3 Most interiors have cloth or vinyl upholcan

be cleaned

Body repair - minor damage

1 If the scratch is superficial and does not penetrate to the metal of the body, repair is very simple. Lightly rub the scratched area with a fine rubbing compound to remove loose paint and built up wax. Rinse the area with clean water. 2 Apply touch-up paint to the scratch, using a small brush. Continue to apply thin layers of paint until the surface of the paint in the scratch is level with the surrounding paint. Allow the new paint at least two weeks to harden, then blend it into the surrounding paint by rubbing with a very fine rubbing compound. Finally, apply a coat of wax to the scratch area. 3 If the scratch has penetrated the paint and exposed the metal of the body, causing the metal to rust, a different repair technique is required. Remove all loose rust from the bottom of the scratch with a pocket knife, then apply rust inhibiting paint to prevent the

1 Every three months remove the floor mats and clean the interior of the vehicle (more frequently if necessary). Use a stiff whisk broom to brush the carpeting and loosen dirt and dust, then vacuum the upholstery and carpets thoroughly, especially along seams and crevices. 2 Dirt and stains can be removed from carpeting with basic household or automotive carpet shampoos available in spray cans.

stery, either of which

Body

and

maintained with a number of material-specific cleaners or shampoos available in auto supply stores. Follow the directions on the product for usage, and always spot-test any upholstery cleaner on an inconspicuous area (like the bottom edge of a back seat cushion) to ensure that it doesn’t cause a color shift in the material. 4 After cleaning, vinyl upholstery should be treated with a protectant. Note: Make sure the protectant container indicates the product can be used on seats - some products make may a seat too slippery. Caution: Do not use a protectant on vinyl-covered steering wheels. 5 Leather upholstery requires special care. It should be cleaned regularly with saddle soap or leather cleaner. Never use alcohol, gasoline, nail polish remover or thinner to clean leather upholstery. 6 After cleaning, regularly treat leather upholstery with a leather conditioner, rubbed

formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber or nylon applicator, coat the scratched area

with glaze-type filler. If required, the filler can be mixed with thinner to provide a very thin paste, which is ideal for filling narrow scratches. Before the glaze filler in the scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth cotton cloth around the tip of a finger. Dip the cloth in thinner and then quickly wipe it along the surface of the scratch. This will ensure that the surface of the filler is slightly hollow. The scratch can now be painted over as described earlier in this Section.

Repair of dents See photo sequence 4 When repairing dents, the first job is to pull the dent out until the affected area is as close as possible to its original shape. There is no point in trying to restore the original shape completely as the metal in the damaged area will have stretched on impact and cannot be restored to its original contours. It is better to bring the level of the dent up to a point which is about 1/8-inch below the level of the surrounding metal. In cases where the dent is very shallow, it is not worth trying to pull it out at all. 5 _ If the back side of the dent is accessible, it can be hammered out gently from behind using a soft-face hammer. While doing this, hold a block of wood firmly against the oppo-

site side of the metal to absorb the hammer blows and prevent the metal from being stretched. 6 If the dent is in a section of the body which has double layers, or some other factor

makes it inaccessible from behind, a different technique is required. Drill several small holes through the metal inside the damaged area, particularly in the deeper sections. Screw long, self tapping screws into the holes just enough for them to get a good grip in the metal. Now the dent can be pulled, out by pulling on the protruding heads of the screws j ? with locking pliers. 7 The next stage of repair is the removal of paint from the damaged area and from an inch or so of the surrounding metal. This is easily done with a wire brush or sanding disk in a drill motor, although it can be done just as effectively by hand with sandpaper. To complete the preparation for filling, score the surface of the bare metal with a screwdriver or the tang of a file or drill small holes in the affected area. This will provide a good grip for the filler material. To complete the repair, see the subsection on filling and painting.

Repair of rust holes or gashes 8 Remove all paint from the affected area and from an inch or so of the surrounding metal using a sanding disk or wire brush mounted in a drill motor. If these are not available, a few sheets of sandpaper will do the job just as effectively.

9 With the paint removed, you will be able to determine the severity of the corrosion and decide whether to replace the whole panel, if possible, or repair the affected area. New body panels are not as expensive as most people think and it is often quicker to install a new panel than to repair large areas of rust. 10 Remove all trim pieces from the affected area except those which will act as a guide to the original shape of the damaged body, such as headlight shells, etc. Using metal snips or a hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and any other metal that is badly affected by rust. Hammer the edges of the hole on the inside to create a slight depression for the filler material. 11 Wire brush the affected area to remove the powdery rust from the surface of the metal. If the back of the rusted area is accessible, treat it with rust inhibiting paint. 12 Before filling is done, block the hole in some way. This can be done with sheet metal riveted or screwed into place, or by stuffing the hole with wire mesh. 13 Once the hole is blocked off, the affected area can be filled and painted. See the following subsection on filling and painting.

Filling and painting 14 Many types of body fillers are available, but generally speaking, body repair kits which contain filler paste and a tube of resin hardener are best for this type of repair work. A wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will be necessary for imparting a smooth and contoured finish to the surface of the filler material. Mix up a small amount of filler on a clean piece of wood or cardboard (use the hardener sparingly). Follow the manufacturer’s instructions on the package, otherwise the filler will set incorrectly.

Chapter 11 15

Using the applicator,

Body

apply the filler

paste to the prepared area. Draw the applica-

8

tor across the surface of the filler to achieve the desired contour and to level the filler surface. As soon as a contour that approximates the original one is achieved, stop working the paste. If you continue, the paste will begin to stick to the applicator. Continue to add thin layers of paste at 20-minute intervals until the level of the filler is just above the surrounding metal. 16 Once the filler has hardened, the excess can be removed with a body file. From then on, progressively finer grades of sandpaper

Replacement of the windshield and fixed glass requires the use of special fast-setting

adhesive/caulk materials and some specialized tools and techniques. These operations should be left to a dealer service department or a shop specializing in glass work. _ ae

9

should be used, starting with a 180-grit paper and finishing with 600-grit wet-or-dry paper. Always wrap the sandpaper around a flat rubber or wooden block, otherwise the surface

of the filler will not be completely flat. During the sanding of the filler surface, the wet-ordry paper should be periodically rinsed in water. This will ensure that a very smooth finish is produced in the final stage. 17 At this point, the repair area should be surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in turn should be encircled by the finely feathered edge of good paint. Rinse the repair area with clean water until all of the dust produced by the sanding operation is gone. 18 Spray the entire area with a light coat of primer. This will reveal any imperfections in the surface of the filler. Repair the imperfections with fresh filler paste or glaze filler and once more smooth the surface with sandpa-

per. Repeat this spray-and-repair procedure until you are satisfied that the surface of the filler and the feathered edge of the paint are perfect. Rinse the area with clean water and allow it to dry completely. 19 The repair area is now ready for painting. Spray painting must be carried out ina warm, dry, windless and dust free atmosphere. These conditions can be created if you have access to a large indoor work area, but if you are forced to work in the open, you will have to pick the day very carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing the floor in the work area with water will help settle the dust which would otherwise be in the air. If the repair area is confined to one body panel, mask off the surrounding panels. This will help minimize the effects of a slight mismatch in paint color. Trim pieces such as chrome strips, door handles, etc., will also need to be masked off or removed. Use masking tape and several thickness of newspaper for the masking operations. 20 Before spraying, shake the paint can thoroughly, then spray a test area until the spray painting technique is mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick coat of primer. The thickness should be built up using several thin layers of primer rather than one thick one. Using 600-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper, rub down the surface of the primer until it is

very smooth. While doing this, the work area should be thoroughly rinsed with water and the wet-or-dry sandpaper periodically rinsed as well. Allow the primer to dry before spraying additional coats.

Windshield and fixed glass replacement

9.3 For a reference point at installation,

outline the hinges on the hood with a felt tip marker

21 Spray on the top coat, again building up the thickness by using several thin layers of paint. Begin spraying in the center of the repair area and then, using a circular motion,

work out until the whole repair area and about two inches of the surrounding original paint is covered. Remove all masking material 10 to 15 minutes after spraying on the final coat of paint. Allow the new paint at least two weeks to harden, then use a very fine rubbing compound to blend the edges of the new paint into the existing paint. Finally, apply a coat of wax.

6

Body repair - major damage

1 Major damage must be repaired by an auto body shop specifically equipped to perform unibody repairs. These shops have the specialized equipment required to do the job properly. 2 lf the damage is extensive, the body must be checked for proper alignment or the vehicle’s handling characteristics may be adversely affected and other components may wear at an accelerated rate.

3 Due to the fact that all of the major body components (hood, fenders, etc.) are separate and replaceable units, any seriously damaged components should be replaced rather than repaired. Sometimes the components can be found in a auto salvage or wrecking yard that specializes in used vehicle components, often at considerable savings over the cost of new parts.

7

Hinges and locks - maintenance

Once every 3000 miles, or every three months, the hinges and latch assemblies on the doors, hood and trunk should be given a few drops of light oil or lock lubricant. The door latch strikers should also be lubricated with a thin coat of grease to reduce wear and ensure free movement. Lubricate the door and trunk locks with spray-on graphite lubricant.

Hood - removal, installation and adjustment

Note: The hood is heavy and somewhat awkward to remove and install - at least two people should perform this procedure.

Removal Refer to illustration 9.3 1 Use blankets or pads to cover the cowl area of the body and both fenders. This will protect the body and paint as the hood is lifted off. 2 Open the hood and support it on the prop rod. 3. Scribe alignment marks around the bolt heads and hinges to aid alignment during installation (a permanent-type felt-tip marker also will work for this) (see illustration). 4 Disconnect the under hood lamp electrical wire harness connector. 5 Have an assistant support one side of the hood while you support the other. Simultaneously remove the hinge-to-hood bolts. 6 __Lift off the hood. Note: A good place to store the hood is on the roof of the vehicle. Place blankets or pads on the roof first and lay the hood painted side down on the blankets.

Installation 7 Installation is the Align the marks around (one side at a time) and clearance. Readjust below).

reverse of removal. the hinges and bolts then check for proper as necessary (see

Adjustment 8 Fore-and-aft and side-to-side adjustment of the hood is done by moving the hood in relation to the hinge plate after loosening the bolts. The hood must be aligned so there is a 5/32-inch gap (approximate) to the front fenders and flush with the top surface. 9 Scribe or trace a line around the entire hinge plate so you can judge the amount of movement (see illustration 9.3). 10 Loosen the bolts and move the hood into correct alignment. Move it only a little at a time. Tighten the hinge bolts and carefully lower the hood to check the alignment. 11. Adjust the hood bumpers on the radiator support so the hood is flush with the fenders when closed. 12 The hood latch assembly can also be adjusted up-and-down and side-to-side after loosening the nuts. Make sure you place

11

to supplement Body repair - minor These photos illustrate a method of repairing simple dents. They are intended repair on these vehicles. body for ns instructio sole the damage in this Chapter and should not be used as

1

If you can’t access the backside of the body panel to hammer

out the dent, pull it out with a slide-hammer-type dent puller. In

the deepest portion of the dent or along the crease line, drill or punch hole(s) at least one inch apart...

2

...then screw the slide-hammer into the hole and operate it. Tap with a hammer near the edge of the dent to help ‘pop’ the

metal back to its original shape. When you’re finished, the dent area should be close to its original contour and about 1/8-inch below the surface of the surrounding metal

©

a

3 Using coarse-grit sandpaper, remove the paint down to the bare metal. Hand sanding works fine, but the disc sander shown here makes the job faster. Use finer (about 320-grit) sandpaper to

4 When the paint is removed, touch will probably be more helpful than sight for telling if the metal is straight. Hammer down the high spots or raise the low spots as necessary.

feather-edge the paint at least one inch around the dent area

Clean the repair area with wax/silicone remover

;

eaea

ou.

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ee

tence

:

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22

5 Following label instructions, mix up aa batch bate of plastic fill er and hardener. The ratio of filler to hardener is critical, and, if you mix it incorrectly, it will either not cure properly or cure too quickly (you

won’t have time to file and sand it into shape)

6 Working quickly so the filler doesn’t harden, use a plastic applicator to press the body filler firmly into. the metal, assuring bonds completely. Work the filler until it matches the original

contour and is slightly above the surrounding metal

it

:

7

Let until you can just dent it with your : the filler harden :

8

fingernail. Use a body me “tba ey (shown here) to rough-

|

p

e tiller

Use coarse-grit sandpaper and

i

work the filler aie a it'sfalse erential

is,

finer grits of sandpaper - always using a board or block - ending up with 360 or 400 grit

i

10

9 You shouldn’t be able to feel any ridge the filler to the bare metal or from the bare As soon as the repair is flat and uniform, mask off the adjacent panels or

at the transition from metal to the old paint. remove the dust and trim pieces

Apply several layers of primer to the area. Don’t spray the

primer on too heavy, so it sags or runs, and make sure each coat is dry before you spray on the next one. A professional-type spray gun is being used here, but aerosol spray primer is available inexpensively from auto parts stores

bi

—.

Site.

11. The primer will help reveal imperfections or scratches. Fill these with glazing compound. Follow the label instructions and sand it with 360 or 400-grit sandpaper until it’s smooth. Repeat the glazing, sanding and respraying until the primer reveals a perfectly smooth surface

Z

‘

iste

#

i

Pitan PR,

pa,

12 Finish sand the primer with very fine sandpaper (400 or 600grit) to remove the primer overspray. Clean the area with water and allow it to dry. Use a tack rag to remove any dust, then apply the finish coat. Don’t attempt to rub out or wax the repair area until the paint has dried completely (at least two weeks)

Chapter 11

Body Remove the bolts securing the hood 8 release handle/cable assembly to the cowl panel (see illustration). Under the dash, locate and disengage 9 the push-in retainer and cable grommet from the firewall. ‘ 10 Connect a piece of heavy string or flexible wire to the engine compartment end of

uti

the cable, then from inside the vehicle, pull

the cable with string or wire attached through the firewall into the vehicle. Disconnect the string or wire from the old cable.

Installation iri

ticyrrieiris

frre

10.2 For a reference point at installation, mark the position of the hood latch on the radiator support

alignment marks assembly before

around the hood latch loosening the mounting

nuts.

13 The hood latch assembly, as well as the hinges, should be periodically lubricated with white lithium-base grease to prevent sticking and wear.

10

Hood latch and cable - removal and installation

Warning: These models have airbags. Always disable the airbag system before working in the vicinity of the impact sensors, steering column or instrument panel to avoid the possibility of accidental deployment of the airbag, which could cause personal injury (see Chapter 12).

Latch Removal Refer to illustrations 10.2 and 10.3 1 Open the hood and support it on the prop rod. 2 Scribe alignment marks around the hood latch assembly to aid alignment during

10.3 Slide the cable housing from the key-hole slot in the hood latch, then slide the cable through the slot (arrow) in the release arm and separate the cable from the hood latch assembly

11. Connect the string or wire to the new cable and carefully pull it through the firewall into the engine compartment. 12 The remaining installation steps are the reverse of removal.

11

Radiator grille (Cirrus models) removal and installation

installation (a permanent-type felt-tip marker or paint will also work for this) (see illustration). 3 Remove the nuts and detach the latch assembly from the radiator support, then disconnect the release cable from the hood latch assembly (see illustration).

Installation 4 Installation is the reverse of removal. Align the hood latch assembly with the marks on the radiator support and then tighten the nuts. Check hood latch operation. Readjust

as necessary.

Cable Removal Refer to illustration 10.8 5 Disconnect the release cable from the hood latch (see Steps 1 through 3). 6 Detach the cable from the clips securing it to the radiator support. 7 Inside the vehicle, remove the left front kick panel to gain access to the hood release handle bolts.

Warning: These models have airbags. Always disable the airbag system before working in the vicinity of the impact sensors, steering column or instrument panel to avoid the possibility of accidental deployment of the airbag, which could cause personal injury (see Chapter 12).

Removal 1 Open the hood and support it on the prop rod. 2 Remove the front bumper with grille attached (see Section 12). 3 Using an appropriate size drill, remove the rivets securing the grille to the bumper and separate the grille from the bumper.

Installation 4 Installation is the reverse of removal. The grille can be reattached to the bumper using rivets (if available) or screws, nuts and washers. If threaded fasteners are used, apply thread locking compound to the screw threads.

GROMMET

HOOD RELEASE HANDLE 10.8

Hocd release cable and handle details as viewed from inside the vehicle

12.5 Remove the five push-in fasteners (arrows) securing the bottom of the front bumper to the radiator lower support

Chapter 11

Body

137

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pre

20 2. B 34

!

|

|

|

| ae cour suv crn |\ {

cameo

WHT/VIO

; 4 \ !

|

|1AC DRIVER NO.1

|

| TORQUE REO SENSE

|

|

|

I sv supPLy | Isc vac SOL CTRL

| | }

WHT/ORG DK BLU/VIO OK_BLU/PNK

ined aed aneaed

BRN/LT GRN

(i FUEL PMP RLY CTRL |

Es ez [—— f——— J++ ———|

pos eo

| | LEAK PMP SW SENSE |

7 PNK/LT BLU ORG/DK_GRN ORG/WHT

Se

rae

a

DK BLU

eee

ieee wl

Ke WHT/DK GRN

3 ORG/WHT

LT_GRN/REO

| |

| senna ao fe ew Pa PTs I] Tree er ees 2 ES a a a Ss es (a Ee a a eS ee ea a

FF BRN/LT_GRN

pf

34 SeKZtT_ BU 35

|y |

| Isc sw SIGNAL lac DRIVER NO.3 Vac DRIVER NO.2 lic ORIVER NO.4 |ONSTRM HTD OX SIG | AMB TEMP SNS SIG | PNP SW SENSE | LOW SPO RLY CTRL | FUSED 6 (+)

VIO/WHT

CTAGRN/REO! RED/BLK CS TLCS OK_BLU/PNK DK BLU

|

|j CCD BUS (-) | CCD BUS (+)

|

YEL/DK_GRN

VIO/WHT ‘7 YELJPNK # WHT/VIO

a

|

PNK/LT_GRN BRN/GRY YEL/BLK VIO/GRY TANZWHT ViO/LT_GRN BLK/WHT DK_BLU/TAN 717

Ieoos

Cw eee

|

| A/C PRESS SIG

OK BLU/ORE

-————++ ff TT] (, GO ECC eee ee ee et ee BRN/GRY ES ae ee 7 YEL/BLK Co SE ee ee 2 Be eee g MIO/GRY LS LL ea wee ere ee Crees esGes cc 5 RELATE 8 ee (ee ea ee yy RELVES Le re Sy SN ES oo HEGRE C7 a a es ee ee ee iL SO eres ES ee ey Bae 12 CEOVALS 13 REOZTAN a EE a a ES

15 SRYZRED pose 16 YELZDK_GRN

|

BLK

|

[1

! |

|Pia

+

2 ULGRN/BLK

|

OM Bes

RED/

AALS

| |

!

1 Pours Mie ak Fe

BLK

IS

I

FUSE 5 i

e

OE OCI

ot Sai

BODY Aes

| |

|

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a

~

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| LEAK PMP SOL CTRL

ev surety (M/1)

| | !

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|

{STOP LP SW SENSE

BNEZS

EVAP/PRGE SOL CTRL|

PNK/LT_ BLU

SENSOR GNO|}—— a VSS SIGNAL

SCI TRANSMIT

CONTROL MODULE

SPEED SENSOR

OK BLU/ LT GRN

ban POWER STEERING

WHT/}|

RED

2

~

YEL/

| came onyorr | | sw sw SE fl

| SENSE SENSE | (ee eyes SS

STOP LAMP SWITCH

EE

a

|%

at7 ONLY

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¥

LT BLU

z6|5a

eee

oe

pal

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SOLENOID

et

ee

LT_GRN BLK PNK WHT/DK_GRN BLK/VIO ViO/GRY PNK/LT_BLU

Err | ade | Se ee

(Es ae Le ea

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wes

\

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oo amma

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4

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SSS

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cee

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ay

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DK BLU/

pee NS=

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WHT Se

FUSED IGN } sw our || (RUN/START)

L——~--—-—-—-~--—

ABS CONTROL MODULE

1996 four-cylinder models (4 of 4) Engine control system - 41995 and

ar

DATA LINK CONNECTOR

Chapter 12

12-24

Chassis electrical system A/C PRESSURE

BATTERY TEMPERATURE SENSOR

SENSOR 5 VOLT GND SUPPLY

S|)al

Shee

sal

eo}

26

5

ELECTRONIC EGR TRANSDUCER SOLENOID

TRANSDUCER

Sr

sal

LT}

A/C PRESS SIGNAL Sa =}

25)

a7

5

GRY/YEL

x [=)

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DK _GRN/ORG VIO/LT GRN TAN/WHT pia TS

a]

| I | |

| | GRY/YEL

| | | | |

| I I I | INJ

NO.3

|

|

| |

|

es

SIG|

10 11

IGN COIL NO.2 ASD RLY OUT IGN COIL NO.1

Ae

CYL NO.1

12-29

ew

USED)

tae es 6 tae aif

|

| CON—

|

|

FUEL

PUMP

COL |, MIACTSE {Col |;

| | | | E

|

(NOT

ae 3 |

|

A/T ONLY Li GRN/

| OK

BLK

BLU/ | LT GRN/ | DK BLU/ | LT GRN/|

ORG

BLK

PNK

BLK

OK

BLU/

TAN |

BLK/|

RED | WHT|

BLK/

WHT]

RED

DK

BLU/

BRN/

WHT]

DK

LT GRN

GRN/

WHT

, DK BLU/YEL

> ELGRNZBLK

ae

3 ELGRN/BLK

Dk _BLU/TAN | ORG/WHT

4 LT_GRN/BLK

5 ¢ 7 g 9 to 11 12 13 14 15 1¢ 17 1 19 20 21 27

PNK/LT

LT_GRN/BLK REO REO ORG/WHT DK BLU BRN/GRY YELZBLK REDZTAN JANZWHT QRG/WHT OK_BLU/WHT RED/BLK LELZPNK GRY/RED MIO/GRY OK _BLU/WHT NIO/LT_GRN VIOZWHT

—————— 6 | {| [Se | |—— |—— ]~—] [Seep nnerreinen Re Ez sapere mn =z | oneihabamneea-oe| ei ee mf meee | aes So" | met pan] cepa nee aie | Poh SSS | | ———— | See [a fone [— — —| SSS apt SSE Eee a eee im SSS ES ee ee eee eee aa ee ee ee ee ee re aaa 0 ee ee ee ee SSS ee eee ee a ee es SSS ee ee er es ee es ee eee [tees ee cl i oe eel ee ee ee SSS eS es ee ee

[nf — | [2

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VIO/WHT YEL/DK

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+

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g

GRN

20

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a i-] | oo ge ca [afl BE ai |

» 5, 55 5, 5. 56 57 38 5g 5, aH 5, ,, 3, 5. 4

p-------

[=

ORG/LT BLU

3

~ -3-—-——|

GRN

LT_GRN/BLK BRN/GRY YEL/BLK 5 VIO/LT_GRN | DE

PNK/LT BLU’) sc) TRANSMIT WAT/ORC

YEL/DK CRN

faa FS ote BLK/ F | LT BLU / |,WHT | . Se TRANSMISSION RANGE SENSOR (A/T ONLY)

|

(| vss SIGNAL

|

(| TORQUE REQ SENSE |

BLK/LT BLU’) sensor GND | SRG GRY/BLK TLEBLU, | CKP SENSOR SIGNAL |

BLK /WHT

BUCA WH

=

I tps SIGNAL

|PNP SWITCH SENSE | ~~ “TRANSMISSION CONTROL

MODULE

Tecanna, | VSS SIGNAL la | WHT/ORG wooton

SPEED PROPORTIONAL STEERING MODULE

=

omcittondel

DR™BLU

DK GRN/

|

| SSS

a]

VEHICLE SPEED

Sere ieee Sc¢ vac. SOL. CONTROL

lsc VENT sot. !

oie

CONTROL

PUMP ODULE

ly _WHT/VIO

CONTROL

SWITCH

‘

LT_GRN/RED

eeees

VEHICLE SPEED CONTROL SERVO

12

BLK/

BLK

LT GRN 2

£

Engine control system - 1995 and 1996 V6 models (3 of 4)

Chassis electrical system

Chapter 12

12-30

------------- 4 i] |

ibe NS

| 2S

FUSE

5

I. !

t

\f

| ee fe 2

OK

WHT/ vio/ BLK BRN at e aux |

BLK LT GRN‘

BLU

JUNCTION BOX

viO/

BLK/

GRY

vio

=

———-—-- = -4

ViO/BRN

vean BUS (+)

DK _BLU/TAN

DK _BLU/TAN ORG/WHT PNK/LT GRN LT_GRN/BLK BRN/GRY YEL/BLK VIO/LT_GRN OK BLU

| LOW SPO RLY CTRL

ORG/WHT

Iv suppcy

PNK/LT_GRN

Isc SW SIGNAL |

BRN/GRY____¢liac DRIVER NO.3 YEL/BLK lac DRIVER NO.2 ViO/LT_GRN__/l ame TEMP SNS SIG |

@On = WN DUR

BLK/LT BLU

BLK/LT BLU RED/TAN TAN/WHT ORG/WHT OK BLU/YEL RED/BLK YEL/PNK GRY/RED VIO/GRY OK BLU/WHT VIO

NOTHIN ATE PLiil RA EAC

j ONSTRM HTD OX SIG |

ORS weit DK _BLU/YEL

GRY /RED

GND

SIGNAL

sv suppry (M/T) | A/C PRESS SIG

| '

| |

| |

}1AC DRIVER NO.1

MOZORY

J 1AC DRIVER NO.4 |

WHT/BLK

lecp

VIO /WHT

WHTZRED YEL/DK_GRN Dima RUZORG SECAWAT

pus

(=)

| l

5V SUPPLY

y

| SS. SIGNAL

\

|HIGH SPO RLY CTRL

;

stop LP sw SENSE | Torque rea sense ! [A/C COMP RLY CTRL : | PNP SW SENSE

WHTZORG

ae

BruLt CEN

(| P/S PRESS SW SENSE | FUEL PMP RLY CTRL | WHT/VIO_¢|sc VAC SOL CTRL | ORG/OK GRN (| LEAK PMP SW SENSE | Dk BLU/VIO (| AUTO SHUT DN RLY | Tr SERTEED LEAK PMP SOL CTRL : SC VENT SOL CTRL

Sie ce

REON

Ce

ArT

ENRZSRY

BLK/LT

GND

i]

|EVAP/PRGE SOL eret|

ENR /CTEBtU BIECRAZ WHT

BLU

sci TRANSMIT | SCI RECEIVE Leeee POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE

WHT/ORG

8 VOLT SUPPLY|}—2&o———__5 VEHICLE SENSOR

GND FUSED B (+)

TAN/ WHT

YEL/OK GRN DK_BLU/ORG BLK /WHT WHT/ORG WHT/ORG DK BLU/PNK DK BLU BRN/LT_GRN WHT/VIO ORG/DK GRN DK BLU/VIO WHT/OK GRN LT GRN/RED BLK/LT BLU PNK/LT BLU DK BLU

VSS

|| SENSOR

REO/TAN

/WHT

SENSOR

(A/T)

| | ! I ( t ! ] | i] |

ORG/ WH

SPEED

VIO/GRY BLK

BLK/VIO__> LT_GRN |_|

2348 Some

PNK/LT_BLU

WHT/DK_GRN PNK

20

ice 9029

=

as

oN

ote 2

2Pzx™N

4

pa

PNK/ LT ao GRY GRN/

PNK/ | LT BLU

DK BLU/ WHT

|STOP wet ae 4 LAMP | sw

ON/OFF Sw

| SENSE

SENSE |

ee ay i

ad

STOP LAMP SWITCH

DUTY CYCLE

Seoikine is

ser | TRANSMIT |

FUSED IGN | SW OUT

(RUN/START)|

Ce ABS

CONTROL

Engine control system - 1995 and 1996 V6 models (4 of 4)

pal] MODULE

DATA LINK

CONNECTOR

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

BATTERY TEMPERATURE SENSOR

|

SENSOR GNO

}

|ia

| CCD BUS oe (+ Le | < pee

{ {1 €cD’ | | BUS

(ip

cco BUS

ES

FUEL LVL SENSOR

cco

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BUS

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SIG

=

+

ee

| | I

BSAA

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pat | f

fs

Ee

heal BLK

oe Se

ee

ee eee

DK | WHT/] BLU BLK

vio/ BRN

ES

a, a eS

| |

| |

ENGINE STARTER

|

|

|

a

4

|

WHT/DK_BLU VIO/BRN

SG)

¥ | CONTROL 4,MODULE

12-33

| | |

| MOTOR_RELAY

|

i!

al

|

ieee

JUNCTION

|

BLOCK

| FUEL

PUMP

Coll

RELAY

| |

|

y | |

| | |

Be DK_BLU/LT_GRN

post

BLK

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=|

POWER

Lt | GRN/|

DISTRIBUTION

BLK

POWER STEERING PRESSURE SWITCH

(eS a =] Se

, OK BLU/WHT

a

OK BLU/YEL

RED VIO/GRY YEL/BLK BRN/GRY Ww none

=

pari a | meio | Vo PRESS|SIC

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Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

12-35

HOT IN OFF, HOT AT HOT AT HOT IN RUN RUN_OR START ALL TIMES ALL TIMES OR START iy oe ee ay ee — JUNCTION [-4"-————— Power | | 8OX | | DISTRIBUTION | FUSE 11 FUSE 7 FUSE 5) | PFUSE 8 j CENTER mn ik 15A 108 1 9 108 [=

eee

RED/

PNK/

vio

ey

ee

eee

pee ee ol |

(i

PNK/

REO

|

LT GRN/

DK SLU

BLK

LT _GRN/ORG

ABS WARNING

Hate

a LT GRN

OIL PRESSURE LAMP -

@)

GRY/DK

BLU

BRAKE WARNING LAMP FUSED IGNITION SWITCH INPUT (OFF/RUN/START)

RED/VIO

FUSED (B+)

ENKZ.BED

EAnUND

BLK /ORG

ce BUS. _—(-)

WHT/DK had BLU

ccD BUS (+)

VIO7/BRN VIO/PNK

| AL

|

a At

nan LT_GRN/REO_

MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP CONTROL (CHECK ENGINE)

GRY/OK BLU WHT/OK BLU

‘S) MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP (CHECK ENGINE)

ViO/BRN_ BLK

ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE LAMP CONTROL

5

GRY ENGINE COOLANT

es

TEMPERATURE LAMP

cco mus (a

ENGINE

CONTROL

,

:

VIO/PNK

FUSED IGN]

ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE

FUSED

GAUGE

tere WARNING LAMP

CONTROL

B(+)

Ay

LT GRN/

)—b—CRNZRED PNK/DK BLU

SEAT

ae

BELT SWITCH

TRAVELER

}

a

BLK/

(except 1995)

LT GRN

BLK

|BLK | BLK/

ORG

AIR BAG WARNING LAMP

BLK

CHARGING

gowrat |

4) CHARGING

Pee pe 3 SYSTEM

LOW FUEL WARNING LAMP

CONTROL

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|

WARNING LAMP

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;

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|

|

Serh =

|

| nua

WARNING LAMP

|

|

(2, ee Se

= BLK

FUEL

GAUGE

INSTRUMENT

CLUSTER

Gauges and warning lights system (1 of 2)

‘lp

Chassis electrical system

Chapter 12

12-36

>_>

~——- al geen nn |

=

a

Se

ao

er a

ne

ena

; ;

]

SS

|

| |

j MODULE

|

ip tl

7 |

Te

— sopy |CONTROL

|

ccd BUS @)

ccd BUS Gy

ccd ccD BUS BUS Ge)

eS

CCD BUS Gay

ee

SEAT BELT SWITCH

CCD CCD ccD BUS BUS BUS (Ga) (>) 1)

ea

FUEL LEVEL SENSOR SIGNAL

SENSE

GS

ST

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| |

|

os

|

|

|

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|

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VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR WHT/DK GRN

[eoceacvepecedieg.= 7)

vtee GRN WHT/ORG

hea Icco es sus an (+) |

[ieieerion nlGocemmce =| baeiees Rear co ol FE | WHT/ ORG

| VSS SIGNAL

WHT/ ORG

2

ee zil| TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE

; M/T | A/T =—i( ay ntewe a

GRY/DK BLU

eee 2 a chee

>

GRY

|

BRAKE

aux]

BLK/

e

pay

RED

PARK

BRAKE

SWITCH

£

Gauges and warning lights system (2 of 2)

pf Se

(CANADIAN

MODELS)

ee

J — JUNCTION

BLOCK

PRESSURE WARNING SWITCH OIL PRESSURE SWITCH

2

WARNING

i

L

™

a

| ABS

GRY/ DK GRN

| =

LS

j BRAKE LIGHT DRIVER x Re ee ee ce oe ee — ABS CONTROL MODULE

sa)

GRY/ OK BLU ar a

LT_GRN/ORG

|

|

Se ee

OK

ITON

"|| SWITCH

START

: ! | |

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system HOT IN RUN OR START

ot

HOT AT ALL TIMES

aan

9

epee

10A

al 7

FUSE 19

|

x

*

HOT IN RUN

ey tala

| § FUSE |

12-37

40A SON

Zz]

a

is

z &

5 S

5

3

~~ 1 JUNCTION

|

| § FUSE

| Box

i

|

|

J

1

Bea

POWER DISTRIBUTION CENTER

OK_GRN TAN

LT_GRN a

ot ———_a.

LT_BLU

TAN

LT_GRN

ea

LT eu”

re

BLK/TAN

Lae

we

LIMITER

BLK/TAN

BLOWER MOTOR RESISTOR BLOCK

~See ss = ENS GPO GT. —s

OK BLU/ORG

LT_GRN/BLK aa

GRY A/C EVAPORATOR TEMPERATURE

ORG ——————

INTERIOR LcHTs SYSTEM

a raat

Eee

OK_GRN/YEL GRY/TAN

[adc on 8

PNK/DK_BLU

=|

DK _BLU/YEL

ae sroaer |

YEL MODE DOOR ACTUATOR

BLK/LT

Dia Ela

DK BLU

aS

A ae! RED/LT GRN

A/C

=]

| GROUND | | MODE SWITCH SENSE] ! A/C SWITCH SENSE!

COMPRESSOR CLUTCH

DK

erate alas

|

SENS GND!

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|j|

Move poor oRiver! \

| 2

SS

HOT IN RUN

R

BLK

TAN

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LEFT PARK/

9) TURN SIGNAL

$

a RIGHT PARK/

(e , 3) TURN SIGNAL

LAMP

LAMP

R ItAMP. SWITCH)

ie

—— sp VIO/BLK

BLK/

LEFT TAIL/STOP eer

CIRRUS ee

TURN LAMP

(BREEZE,

ie

STRATUS)

ss

LEFT TAIL/ TURN

RIGHT

STRATUS

eae

STRATUS

ASSEMBLY

one

aa TAIL/

TAIL

aye

LAMP

(CIRRUS)

i

WHT/TAN

TURN LAMP (CIRRUS)

OR

=

"ve

aaN

a

LICENSE @) PLATE LAMP

BLK/ YEL

RIGHT

CENTER @) HIGH MOUNTED

2

Exterior lighting system (except headlights and foglights)

SIGNAL

LAMP

eerie TURN LAMP |ASSEMBLY (3) ine STRATUS) (69) RIGHT TAIL/

BLK/TAN

e

Raa ToR iTAIL/ST

aE

& TURN

BREEZE,

2

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

HOT

AT ALL TIMES -e—-——-7 Power

FUSE 15 ! CENTER 1 ¢ 40a |

ee

eS

HOT

__HOT_AT _ALL_TIMES

IN OFF,

OR START

| (1995-96) §(1997-98) FUSE 77 FUSE 7

al

|

BLOCK FUSE 11 |

20A 9 15A

[2

RUN

—— — 7 JUNCTION

ea

Saree

eR

j DISTRIBUTION

|

12-39

LOA

= et

|

RED/

WHT

=

a

SS.

ees

iS

| SWITCH

|

{

|

\

I 8

a

9

|

|

INDICATOR |

i LAMP

|

eee

j

HIGH BEAM

FOG

!

INDICATOR LAMP |

LAMP

\

|

|

I

\ '

1 i

|

Se os

|

Switen)

|

|

l HIGH

@) BEAM

i

\

SWITCH

INSTRUMENT PeCLUSTER =

Ne

|

i]

DIMMER

|

DE

|

| HEADLAMP

HEAD

NSS eh

}|

ae TV Heaotame

|

pet

INDICATOR

TRE

cb

ccd BUS

|

eer

|

BUS

eet) 2oe eS Se

ee

ee ' |

Se

Bs

=)

a)

RED/

LT BLU OR LT BLU/

REOD/

ORG

WHT

ORG

BLK/

ORG]

eee SS

a

ee

WHT /

DK BLU

ViO/]

BLK/

BRNILT GRN

~--4---}--}

-------,

mars ae | GROUND

HEADLAMP DELAY

RELAY

FUSED B (+)

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12-44

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

Notes

IND-1

index A Accelerator cable, replacement, 4-10 Air cleaner assembly, removal and installation, 4-9 Air conditioning clutch relay, 6-6 compressor, removal and installation, 3-9 condenser, removal and installation, 3-10 evaporator and expansion valve, removal and installation, 3-10 receiver-drier, removal and installation, 3-10 Air conditioning and heating system, check and maintenance, 3-8 Air filter, replacement, 1-20 Airbag module, driver-side, removal and installation, 10-16 module, passenger-side, removal and installation, 11-17 system, general information, 12-18 Alternator, removal and installation, 5-8 Antenna, removal and installation, 12-11 Antifreeze, general information, 3-2 Anti-lock Brake System (ABS), general information, 9-2 Automatic transaxle, 7B-1 through 7B-8 diagnosis, general, 7B-2 fluid and filter change, 1-21 leak diagnosis, 7B-2 level check, 1-9 gearshift assembly, replacement, 7B-4 oil seal, replacement, 7B-2 park/neutral/back-up light switch, check and replacement, 7B-5 removal and installation, 7B-6 shitt cable, check, removal, installation and adjustment, 7B-3 shifter/ignition interlock system, description, check and cable replacement, 7B-5 Transmission Control Module (TCM), removal and installation, 7B-6 Automotive chemicals and lubricants, 0-16

Back-up light switch (manual transaxle), check and replacement, 7A-2 | Balance shafts (2.4L four-cylinder engine only), removal, inspection and installation, 2C-15 Balljoint front, check, 10-9 upper, rear, removal and installation, 10-14

Battery cables, check and replacement, 5-2 check, maintenance and charging, 1-12 removal and installation, 5-3 Blower motor and circuit, check and replacement, 3-6 Body, 11-1 through 11-22 general information, 11-1 maintenance, 11-1 repair major damage, 11-3 minor damage, 11-2 Body Code Plate, 0-7 Booster battery (jump) starting, 0-14 Brake, parking cables, replacement, 9-14 lever assembly, removal, installation and adjustment, 9-14 Brakes, 9-1 through 9-16 Anti-lock Brake System (ABS), general information, 9-2 disc brake caliper, removal and installation, 9-5 pads, replacement, 9-3 disc, inspection, removal and installation, 9-5 drum, shoes, replacement, 9-6 general information, 9-2

hoses and lines, inspection and replacement, 9-12 light switch, check, replacement and adjustment, 9-16 power booster, check, removal and installation, 9-13 proportioning vaive, check and replacement, 9-11 switch, 6-6 system

bleeding, 9-12 check, 1-16 wheel cylinder, removal and installation, 9-9 Bulb replacement, 12-8 Bumpers, removal and installation, 11-7

Buying parts, 0-8

C Camshaft oil seal, replacement four-cylinder engines, 2A-12 V6 engine, 2B-9 position sensor, 6-7 removal, inspection and installation four-cylinder engines, 2A-15 V6 engine, 2B-11 Catalytic converter system, description, check and replacement, 6-17 Center console, removal and installation, 11-17

INC

IND-2 i

Index

Charging system check, 5-7 general information and precautions, 5-6 Chassis electrical system, 12-1 through 12-19 Chassis lubrication, 1-20 Circuit breakers, general information, 12-3 Clutch cable, removal and installation, 8-2 release bearing and lever, removal, inspection and installation, 8-3 start switch, check and replacement, 8-4 description and check, 8-1 Clutch and driveaxles, 8-1 through 8-10 Compass/temperature Mini-Trip Computer self diagnosis, 12-19 Compression check, 2C-6 Control arm, rear upper, removal and installation, 10-13 Conversion factors, 0-17 Coolant temperature sending unit, check and replacement, 3-6 Cooling system check, 1-13 servicing (draining, flushing and refilling), 1-22 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems, 3-1 through 3-12 Cowl cover, removal and installation, 11-20 Crankshaft inspection, 2C-21

installation and main bearing oil clearance check, 2C-24 oil seal, replacement four-cylinder engines, 2A-11 V6 engine, 2B-9 position sensor, 6-7 removal, 2C-17 Cruise control system, description and check, 12-15 Cylinder head cleaning and inspection, 2C-11 disassembly, 2C-10 reassembly, 2C-13 removal and installation four-cylinder engines, 2A-18 V6 engine, 2B-13 Cylinder honing, 2C-19

D Dashboard trim panels, glove box door handle and lock cylinder, removal and installation, 11-13 Disc brake Caliper, removal and installation, 9-5 pads, replacement, 9-3 Distributor (V6 engine only), removal and installation, 5-6 Door latch, outside handle and lock cylinder, removal, installation and adjustment, 11-9 removal and installation, 11-11

trim panel, removal and installation, 11-8

window glass, removal and installation,

11-10

window regulator, removal and installation,

11-11

Driveaxle boot : check, 1-16 : : replacement, 8-6 oil seal replacement, 7A-2 removal and installation, 8-5 general information and inspection, 8-4 Drivebelt, check, adjustment and replacement, 1-18 Drum brake shoes, replacement, 9-6

E Electric rear view mirrors, description and check, 12-16 Electrical troubleshooting, 12-1 Emissions and engine control systems, 6-1 through 6-18 Emissions control and engine systems catalytic converter system, description, check and replacement, 6-17 general information, 6-2 information sensors and output actuators, description, check and replacement, 6-6 On Board Diagnosis (OBD-II) system, description and trouble code access, 6-2 Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system, general description, 6-13 Powertrain Control Module (PCM), check and replacement, 6-13 trouble codes, 1995 through 1997 models, 6-4 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor, 6-8 Engine electrical systems, 5-1 through 5-10

alternator, removal and installation, 5-8 battery cables, check and replacement, 5-2 removal and installation, 5-3 charging system, check, 5-7 charging system, general information and precautions, 5-6 distributor (V6 engine only), removal and installation, 5-6 general information, precautions and battery disconnection, 5-2 ignition coil, check and replacement, 5-5 ignition system, check, 5-4 Ignition system, general information, 5-4 starter motor, in-vehicle check, 5-9 starter motor, removal and installation, 5-10 starting system, general information and precautions, 5-9 Engine balance shafts (2.4L four-cylinder engine only), removal, inspection and installation, 2C-15 block cleaning, 2C-17 inspection, 2C-18

Index

eee camshaft oil seal, replacement

rear main oil seal, replacement four-cylinder engines, 2A-24 V6 engine, 2B-18 rebuilding alternatives, 2C-8

four-cylinder engines, 2A-12 V6 engine, 2B-9 camshaft(s), removal, inspection and installation

four-cylinder engines, 2A-15 V6 engine, 2B-11 compression check, 2C-6 cooling fans and circuit, check and replacement, 3-3 crankshaft front oil seal, replacement four-cylinder engines, 2A-11 V6 engine, 2B-9

crankshaft installation and main bearing oil clearance check, 2C-24 inspection, 2C-21

cylinder head cleaning and inspection, 2C-11 disassembly, 2C-10 reassembly, 2C-13 removal and installation four-cylinder engines, 2A-18 V6 engine, 2B-13

cylinder honing, 2C-19 engine mounts, check and replacement four-cylinder engines, 2A-25 V6 engine, 2B-19

exhaust manifold, removal and installation four-cylinder engines, 2A-6 V6 engine, 2B-5 flywheel/driveplate, removal and installation four-cylinder engines, 2A-23 V6 engine, 2B-18 general overhaul procedures, 2C-1 through 2C-28 identification numbers, 0-7 initial start-up and break-in after overhaul, 2C-28 intake manifold, removal, inspection and installation

four-cylindér engines, 2A-5 V6 engine, 2B-3 main and connecting rod bearings, inspection, 2C-22 oil and filter change, 1-10 pan, removal and installation

four-cylinder engines, 2A-19 V6 engine, 2B-15 pump, removal, inspection and installation four-cylinder engines, 2A-21 V6 engine, 2B-16 overhaul disassembly sequence, 2C-9 general information, 2C-4 reassembly sequence, 2C-22 piston rings, installation, 2C-23 pistons and connecting rods

inspection, 2C-20 installation and rod bearing oil clearance check, 2C-26 removal, 2C-14

IND-3

removal, methods and precautions, 2C-7

removal and installation, 2C-7 repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle four-cylinder engines, 2A-4 V6 engine, 2B-2 rocker arm and hydraulic valve lash adjuster, removal, inspection and installation four-cylinder engines, 2A-13 V6 engine, 2B-10 timing belt, removal, inspection and installation four-cylinder engines, 2A-7 V6 engine, 2B-6 Top Dead Center (TDC) for number one piston, locating, 2C-5 vacuum gauge diagnostic checks, 2C-6 valve cover, removal and installation four-cylinder engines, 2A-4 V6 engine, 2B-2 valve springs, retainers and seals, replacement four-cylinder engines, 2A-17 V6 engine, 2B-12 valves, servicing, 2C-13 Evaporative emissions control (EVAP) system, description, check and component replacement, 6-15

Evaporative emissions control system, check, 1-23 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system, description, check and component replacement, 6-13 Exhaust manifold, removal, inspection and installation four-cylinder engines, 2A-6 V6 engine, 2B-5 Exhaust system servicing, general information, 4-17 check, 1-15

= Fluid level checks, 1-6 brake fluid, 1-8 engine coolant, 1-7 engine oil, 1-6 windshield washer fluid, 1-8 Flywheel/driveplate, removal and installation

four-cylinder engines, 2A-23 V6 engine, 2B-18 Four-cylinder engines, 2A-1 through 2A-26 Fuel filter removal and installation, 4-14 replacement, 1-26

level sending unit, check and replacement, 4-7

IND-4 ce a pressure regulator and fuel inlet strainer, replacement, 4-13 pressure relief procedure, 4-2 pump module, removal and installation, 4-7 pump/fuel pressure regulator, check, 4-2 rail and injectors, check, removal and installation, 4-14 system hoses and connections, check, 1-17

tank cleaning and repair, general information, 4-7 removal and installation, 4-6 Fuel and exhaust systems, 4-1 through 4-18 Fuel injection system general check, 4-12

system, general information, 4-10 Fuses, general information, 12-2

Fusible links, general information, 12-3

G Gearshift assembly, replacement, 7B-4 General engine overhaul procedures, 2C-1

H Headlight and fog light, adjustment, 12-7 assembly, removal and installation, 12-6 switch, check and replacement, 12-6 Heater core, replacement, 3-7 Heater/air conditioner control assembly, removal, check and installation, 3-7 Hinges and locks, maintenance, 11-3

Index crankshaft position sensor, 6-7

Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor, 6-8 Idle Air Control (IAC) motor, 6-9 knock sensor, four-cylinder engines, 6-10 oxygen sensor, 6-11 ‘ : : power steering pressure switch, 6-12 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), 6-12 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS), manual transaxles only, 6-12 Initial start-up and break-in after overhaul, 2C-28 Instrument cluster hood, removal and installation, 11-15 Instrument cluster removal and installation, 12-13 self-diagnosis, 12-12 Instrument panel removal and installation, 11-15 top cover, removal and installation, 11-13 Intake manifold, removal, inspection and installation four-cylinder engines, 2A-5 V6 engine, 2B-3 Introduction to the Chrysler Cirrus, Dodge Stratus and Plymouth Breeze, 0-5

J Jacking and towing, 0-15

K Knock sensor, four-cylinder engines, 6-10 Knuckle/spindle (rear), removal and installation, 10-15

Hood latch and cable, removal and installation, 11-6 removal, installation and adjustment, 11-3 Horn; check, removal and installation, 12-13 Hub and bearing assembly front, removal and installation, 10-9 rear, removal and installation, 10-14

L Lateral links (rear), removal and installation, 10-12 Lower control arm, removal and installation, 10-8

vi Idle Air Control (IAC) motor, 6-9 Idle Air Control (IAC) motor, check and replacement, 4-17 Ignition coil, check and replacement, 5-5 Ignition switch and lock cylinder, removal and installation, 12-6 Ignition system, check, 5-4 Information sensors air conditioning clutch relay, 6-6 brake switch, 6-6 camshaft position sensor, 6-7

Main and connecting rod bearings, inspection, 2C-22 Maintenance schedule, 1-5 Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities, 0-8 Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor, 6-10 Manual transaxle, 7A-1 through 7A-6 back-up light switch, check and replacement, 7A-2 driveaxle oil seal replacement, 7A-2 lubricant change, 1-21 lubricant level check, 1-16 overhaul, general information, 7A-6 removal and installation, 7A-4

—

Index ee e shift cables, removal, installation and adjustment, 7A-1 shift lever assembly, removal and installation, 7A-2 Master cylinder, removal, installation and vacuum seal replacement, 9-10 Mirrors, removal and installation, 11-19 Modular clutch assembly, removal, inspection and installation, 8-3 Multi-function switch, check and replacement, 12-4

Oil pan, removal and installation four-cylinder engines, 2A-19 V6 engine, 2B-15 pump, removal, inspection and installation

four-cylinder engines, 2A-21 V6 engine, 2B-16 seal, replacement, 7B-2 On Board Diagnosis (OBD-II) system, description and trouble code access, 6-2 - Oxygen sensor, 6-11

)

Q Quick-connect fittings and fuel lines, disassembly, assembly and replacement, 4-4

R Radiator and coolant reservoir, removal and installation, 3-4 Radiator grille (Cirrus models), removal and installation, 11-6 Radio, amplifier and speakers, removal and installation, 12-10 Rear main oil seal, replacement four-cylinder engines, 2A-24 V6 engine, 2B-18 Recommended lubricants and fluids, 1-1

Relays, general information, 12-3 Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle four-cylinder engines, 2A-4

V6 engine, 2B-2 Rocker arm and hydraulic valve lash adjuster, removal, inspection and installation

four-cylinder engines, 2A-13 V6 engine, 2B-10

Park/neutral/back-up light switch, check and replacement, 7B-5 | Parking brake

cables, replacement, 9-14 lever assembly, removal, installation

|

IND-5

and adjustment, 9-14

1 Passenger airbag module, removal and installation, 11-17

1 Piston rings, installation, 2C-23

| Pistons and connecting rods inspection, 2C-20 installation and rod bearing oil clearance check, 2C-26 removal, 2C-14 t Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system, general description, 6-13 F Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve, check and replacement, 1-25 Power brake booster, check, removal and installation, 9-13 Power door lock system, description and check, 12-16

= Power steering i

fluid level check, 1-10

| |

pressure switch, 6-12 pump, cooler and hoses, removal and installation, 10-19

| system, bleeding, 10-21 ? Power window system, description, check and | window motor replacement, 12-16 Powertrain Control Module (PCM), check and replacement, 6-13 Proportioning valve, check and replacement, 9-11

S Safety first, 0-18 Seat belt check, 11-22

Seats power, description and check, 12-17 removal and installation, 11-20 Shift cable, check, removal, installation and adjustment manual transaxle, 7A-3 automatic transaxle, 7B-3 Shift lever assembly, removal and installation, 7A-2 Shifter/ignition interlock system, description, check and cable replacement, 7B-5 Shock absorber/coil spring assembly front, removal, inspection and installation, 10-5 rear, removal, inspection, component replacement and installation, 10-10 replacement, 10-7 Spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, check and replacement, 1-25 Spark plugs, check and replacement, 1-23 Stabilizer bar and bushings front, removal, inspection and installation, 10-5 rear, removal and installation, 10-10 Starter motor in-vehicle check, 5-9 removal and installation, 5-10 Starting system, general information and precautions, 5-9

|

IND

IND-6Ghed siete

eee

Index enn er er nese e a

Steering and suspension, check, 1-15 Steering column covers, removal and installation, 11-17

Steering system gear and pressure switch, removal and installation, 10-17

general information, 10-15 knuckle, removal and installation, 10-10 power steering pump, cooler and hoses, removal and installation, 10-19 power steering system, bleeding, 10-21 steering wheel, removal and installation, 10-16 tie-rod ends, removal and installation, 10-17 wheel alignment, general information, 10-21

and tires, general information, 10-21 removal and installation, 10-16 Suspension and steering systems, 10-1 through 10-22 Suspension system balljoints (front), check, 10-9 crossmember, removal and reinstallation, 10-13 knuckle/spindle (rear), removal and installation, 10-15 lateral links (rear), removal and installation, 10-12 lower control arm, removal and installation, 10-8 shock absorber/coil spring assembly (front), removal, inspection and installation, 10-5 shock absorber/coil spring, replacement, 10-7 shock absorber/coil spring (rear), removal, inspection, component replacement and installation, 10-10 stabilizer bar and bushings (front), removal, inspection and installation, 10-5 stabilizer bar and bushings (rear), removal and installation, 10-10 trailing link (rear), removal and installation, 10-12 upper balljoint (rear), removal and installation, 10-14 upper control arm (front), removal, inspection and installation, 10-8 upper control arm (rear), removal and installation, 10-13

Troubleshooting, 0-19 Trunk latch and lock cylinder, removal and installation, 11-13

Trunk lid, support strut, latch striker and release cable, removal, installation and adjustment, 11-11 Tune-up and routine maintenance, 1-1 through 1-26 ‘ ‘ Tune-up general information, 1-6

U Underhood hose, check and replacement, 1-13 Upholstery and carpets, maintenance, 11-2 Upper balljoint (rear), removal and installation, 10-14 Upper control arm

front, removal, inspection and installation, 10-8 rear, removal and installation, 10-13

V Vacuum gauge diagnostic checks, 2C-6 Valve cover, removal and installation four-cylinder engines, 2A-4 V6 engine, 2B-2 Valve springs, retainers and seals, replacement four-cylinder engines, 2A-17 V6 engine, 2B-12 Valves, servicing, 2C-13 Vehicle Emissions Control Information (VECI) label, 0-7 Vehicle identification numbers, 0-6 Body Code Plate, 0-7 engine identification numbers, 0-7 transaxle identification numbers, 0-7 Vehicle Safety Certification label, 0-7 . Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS), manual transaxles only, 6-12 Vinyl! trim, maintenance, 11-2

+ Thermostat, check and replacement, 3-2 Throttle body, check, removal and installation, 4-12 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), 6-12 Tie-rod ends, removal and installation, 10-17 Timing belt, removal, inspection and installation

four-cylinder engines, 2A-7 V6 engine, 2B-6 Tire and tire pressure checks, 1-8 Tire rotation, 1-14

Top Dead Center (TDC) for number one piston, locating, 2C-5 Towing, the vehicle, 0-15 Trailing link (rear), removal and installation, 10-12 Transaxle identification numbers, 0-7 Transmission Control Module (TCM), removal and installation, 7B-6 Trouble codes, 1995 through 1997 models, 6-4

W Water pump check, 3-5

replacement, 3-5 Wheel alignment, general information, 10-21 Wheel cylinder, removal and installation, 9-9 Wheels and tires, general information, 10-21 Window defogger

rear heat grid, check and repair, 12-15 switch, rear, check and replacement, 12-14 Windshield and fixed glass, replacement, 11-3 washer fluid pump, removal and installation, 12-5 wiper motor, check and replacement, 12-5 Windshield wiper/washer switch, check and

replacement, 12-4 Wiring diagrams, 12-19

.

Haynes Automotive Manuals NOTE: New manuals are added to this list on a periodic basis. If you do not see a listing for your vehicle, consult your local Haynes dealer for the latest product information.

ACURA *12020

24048 Integra ’86 thru ’89 & Legend ’86 thru ’90

AMC Jeep CJ - see JEEP (50020) 14020

14025

Mid-size models, Concord, Hornet, Gremlin & Spirit ’70 thru ’83 (Renault) Alliance & Encore ’83 thru ’87

AUDI 15020 15025 15026

18050

24059 *24060 24064

Monte Carlo ’95 thru ’98 - see LUMINA (24048) Nova all V8 models ’69 thru ’79 Nova and Geo Prizm ’85 thru ’92 Pick-ups ’67 thru ’87 - Chevrolet & GMC,

*24065

Suburbans, Blazers & Jimmys ’67 thru ’91 Pick-ups ’88 thru ’98 - Chevrolet & GMC,

all V8 & in-line 6 cyl, 2WD & 4WD ’67 thru ’87;

24070 *24071

19025

19030

3/5 Series not including diesel or all-wheel drive models ’82 thru ’92 3 Series except 325iX models 92 thru ’97 320i all 4 cyl models 75 thru ’83 528i & 530i all models ’75 thru ’80 1500 thru 2002 except Turbo ’59 thru ’77

CHRYSLER

Century (frent wheel drive) - see GM (829) Buick, Oldsmobile & Pontiac Full-size (Front wheel drive) all models ’85 thru ’98 Buick Electra, LeSabre and Park Avenue; Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royale, Ninety Eight and Regency; Pontiac Bonneville Buick Oldsmobiie & Pontiac Full-size (Rear wheel drive) Buick Estate ’70 thru ’90, Electra’70 thru ’84, LeSabre ’70 thru ’85, Limited ’74 thru ’79 Oidsmobile Custom Cruiser ’70 thru ’90, Delta 88 ’70 thru ’85,Ninety-eight ’70 thru ’84 Pontiac Bonneville ’70 thru 81, Catalina ’70 thru ’81, Grandville ’70 thru ’75, Parisienne ’83 thru ’86 Mid-size Regal & Century all rear-drive models with V6, V8 and Turbo ’74 thru ’87 Regal - see GENERAL MOTORS (38010) Riviera - see GENERAL MOTORS (38030) Roadmaster - see CHEVROLET (24046) Skyhawk - see GENERAL MOTORS (38015) Skylark ’80 thru ’85 - see GM (38020) Skylark ’86 on - see GM (38025) Somerset - see GENERAL MOTORS (38025)

CADILLAC *21030

Cadillac Rear Wheel Drive all gasoline models ’70 thru ’93 Cimarron - see GENERAL MOTORS (38015) Eldorado - see GENERAL MOTORS (38030) Seville ’80 thru ’85 - see GM (38030)

CHEVROLET *24010 24015 24016

Astro & GMC Safari Mini-vans ’85 thru ’93 Camaro V8 all models ’70 thru ’81 Camaro all models ’82 thru ’92

Cavalier - see GENERAL MOTORS (38015) Celebrity - see GENERAL MOTORS (38005) 24017 24020

Camaro & Firebird ‘93 thru ‘97 Chevelle, Malibu & El Camino ’69 thru ’87

24024

Chevette & Pontiac T1000 ’76 thru ’87 Citation - see GENERAL MOTORS (38020) Corsica/Beretta all models ’87 thru ’96

*24032 24040 *24041 10305 24045 24046

S-10 & S-15 Pick-ups ‘94 thru ‘96 Blazer & Jimmy ‘95 thru ‘96 Sprint & Geo Metro ’85 thru '94 Vans - Chevrolet & GMC, V8 & in-line 6 cylinder models ’68 thru 96

*24075 *24080

25015 25025 10310 *25020

BUICK *19020

Jimmy ’92 thru ’94; Suburban ’92 thru 98; Tahoe & Yukon ’98 S-10 & S-15 Pick-ups 82 thru 93, Blazer & Jimmy ’83 thru ’94,

Sprite - see MG Midget (66015)

BMW *18021 18025 18035

Lumina APV - see GM (38035) Luv Pick-up all 2WD & 4WD ’72 thru ’82 Monte Carlo all models '70 thru ’88

all full-size pick-ups, ’88 thru ’98; Blazer &

4000 all models ’80 thru ’87 5009 all models ’77 thru ’83 5000 all models ’84 thru ’88

AUSTIN-HEALEY

*18020

Lumina & Monte Carlo ’95 thru 98

24050 *24055

Corvette all V8 models ’68 thru ’82 Corvette all models ’84 thru 96 Chevrolet Engine Overhaul Manual Full-size Sedans Caprice, Impala, Biscayne, Bel Air & Wagons ’69 thru ’90 Impala SS & Caprice and Buick Roadmaster ’91 thru ’96

Lumina - see GENERAL MOTORS (38070)

*25030

Chrysler Cirrus, Dodge Stratus, Plymouth Breeze ‘95 thru ‘98 Chrysler Concorde, New Yorker & LHS, Dodge Intrepid, Eagle Vision, ‘93 thru ‘97 Chrysler Engine Overhaul Manual Full-size Front-Wheel Drive ’88 thru ‘93 K-Cars - see DODGE Aries (30008) Laser - see DODGE Daytona (30030) Chrysler & Plymouth Mid-size front wheel drive ’82 thru ’95 Rear-wheel Drive - see Dodge (30050)

FORD 10355 *36004 *36006 36008 36012 10320 36016 *36020 *36024 36028 36030 36032 36036

36040 36044

36048 36049 36050

DATSUN

*36051 36054 36058 36059

28005 28007 28009 28012 28014

36062 36066 36070 *36071

28016 28018 28020 28022

28025

200SX all models ’80 thru ’83 B-210 all models ’73 thru ’78 210 all models ’79 thru ’82 240Z, 260Z & 280Z Coupe ’70 thru ’78 280ZX Coupe & 2+2 '79 thru ’83 300ZX - see NISSAN (72010) 310 all models ’78 thru ’82 510 & PL521 Pick-up ’68 thru ’73 510 all models ’78 thru ’81 620 Series Pick-up all models ’73 thru ’79 720 Series Pick-up - see NISSAN (72030) 810/Maxima all gasoline models, ’77 thru ’84

DODGE

36074 *36075 *36078 36082 *36086 36090 *36094 *36097

Ford Automatic Transmission Overhaul Aerostar Mini-vans all models ’86 thru ’96 Contour & Mercury Mystique ’95 thru ’98 Courier Pick-up all models ’72 thru ’82 Crown Victoria & Mercury Grand Marquis ’88 thru ’96

Ford Engine Overhaul Manual Escort/Mercury Lynx all models ’81 thru ’90 Escort/Mercury Tracer ’91 thru 96 Explorer & Mazda Navajo ’91 thru 95 Fairmont & Mercury Zephyr ’78 thru ’83

Festiva & Aspire ’88 thru ’97 Fiesta all models ’77 thru ’80 Ford & Mercury Full-size, Ford LTD & Mercury Marquis (’75 thru ’82); Ford Custom 500,Country Squire, Crown Victoria & Mercury Colony Park (’75 thru ’87); Ford LTD Crown Victoria & Mercury Gran Marquis (’83 thru ’87) Granada & Mercury Monarch ’75 thru ’80 Ford & Mercury Mid-size, Ford Thunderbird & Mercury Cougar (75 thru ’82); Ford LTD & Mercury Marquis (’83 thru ’86); Ford Torino,Gran Torino, Elite, Ranchero pick-up, LTD Il, Mercury Montego, Comet, XR-7 & Lincoln Versailles (’75 thru ’86) Mustang V8 all models ’64-1/2 thru '73 Mustang II 4 cyl, V6 & V8 models ’74 thru ’78

Mustang & Mercury Capri all models Mustang, ’79 thru ’93; Capri, ’79 thru ’86 Mustang all models '94 thru '97 Pick-ups & Bronco ’73 thru ’79 Pick-ups & Bronco ’80 thru ’96 Pick-ups, Expedition & Mercury Navigator '97 thru ’98 Pinto & Mercury Bobcat ’75 thru ’80 Probe all models ’89 thru ’92 Ranger/Bronco Il gasoline models ’83 thru ’92 Ranger ‘93 thru ‘97 & Mazda Pick-ups ‘94 thru ‘97 Taurus & Mercury Sable ’86 thru ’95 Taurus & Mercury Sable ‘96 thru ’98

Tempo & Mercury Topaz ’84 thru '94 Thunderbird/Mercury Cougar ’83 thru ’88 Thunderbird/Mercury Cougar ’89 and ’97 Vans all V8 Econoline models ’69 thru ’91 Vans full size ’92-’95 Windstar Mini-van ’95-’98

400 & 600 - see CHRYSLER (25030) *30008 30010 *30011

30012 30016 *30020 30025 *30030

*30034 *30035 *30040 *30041 *30045 30050 *30055 *30060 *30065

Aries & Plymouth Reliant ’81 thru ’89 Caravan & Plymouth Voyager Mini-Vans all models ’84 thru ’95 Caravan & Plymouth Voyager Mini-Vans all models ’96 thru ’98 Challenger/Plymouth Saporro ’78 thru ’83 Colt & Plymouth Champ (front wheel drive) all models ’78 thru ’87 Dakota Pick-ups all models ’87 thru ’96 Dart, Demon, Plymouth Barracuda,

Duster & Valiant 6 cyl models ’67 thru ’76 Daytona & Chrysler Laser ’84 thru ’89 Intrepid - see CHRYSLER (25025) Neon all models '95 thru ’97 Omni & Plymouth Horizon '78 thru ’90 Pick-ups all full-size models ’74 thru ’93 Pick-ups all full-size models ‘94 thru ‘96 Ram 50/D50 Pick-ups & Raider and Plymouth Arrow Pick-ups ’79 thru ’93 Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler rear wheel drive ’71 thru ’89 Shadow & Plymouth Sundance ’87 thru ’94 Spirit & Plymouth Acclaim '89 thru ’95 Vans - Dodge & Plymouth ’71 thru ’96

*10360 *38005 *38010

*38015 *38016 38020 38025 38030

*38035

EAGLE Talon - see Mitsubishi Eclipse (68030) Vision - see CHRYSLER (25025)

FIAT 34010 34025

GENERAL MOTORS

124 Sport Coupe & Spider ’68 thru ’78 X1/9 all models ’74 thru ’80

GM Automatic Transmission Overhaul Buick Century, Chevrolet Celebrity, Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera & Pontiac 6000 all models ’82 thru ’96 Buick Regal, Chevrolet Lumina, Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme & Pontiac Grand Prix front-wheel drive models ’88 thru ’95 Buick Skyhawk, Cadillac Cimarron, Chevrolet Cavalier, Oldsmobile Firenza & Pontiac J-2000 & Sunbird 82 thru 94 Chevrolet Cavalier & Pontiac Sunfire 95 thru ’98 Buick Skylark, Chevrolet Citation, Olds Omega, Pontiac Phoenix ’80 thru ’85 Buick Skylark & Somerset, Oldsmobile Achieva & Calais and Pontiac Grand Am all models ’85 thru ’95 Cadillac Eldorado ’71 thru ’85, Seville ’80 thru ’85, Oldsmobile Toronado ’71 thru ’85 & Buick Riviera ’79 thru ’85 Chevrolet Lumina APV, Olds Silhouette & Pontiac Trans Sport all models ’90 thru ’95 General Motors Full-size

Rear-wheel Drive - see BUICK (19025)

(Continued on other side)

titles will be periodically updated to include later model years - consult your * Listings shown with an asterisk (*) indicate model coverage as of this printing. These Haynes dealer for more information.

14 ¢ (805) 498-6703 Haynes North America, Inc., 861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, CA 91320-15

Haynes Automotive Manuals (continued) listing for your vehicle, NOTE: New manuals are added to this list on a periodic basis. If you do not see a consult your local Haynes dealer for the latest product information. ‘

TRIUMPH

MITSUBISHI

*40030

Metro - see CHEVROLET Sprint (24075) Prizm - ’85 thru ’92 see CHEVY (24060), ’93 thru ’96 see TOYOTA Corolla (92036) Storm all models ’90 thru ’93 Tracker - see SUZUKI Samurai (90010)

*68020 *68030 *68040

Cordia, Mirage Eclipse, Pick-up

Tredia, Galant, Precis & ’83 thru ’93 Eagle Talon & Ply. Laser ’90 thru ’94 ’83 thru ’96 & Montero ’83 thru ’93

NISSAN

GMC Safari - see CHEVROLET ASTRO (24010) Vans & Pick-ups - see CHEVROLET

HONDA 42010 42011 42012 42013 42020 42021 42022 42023 *42024 *42040

Accord CVCC all models ’76 thru ’83 Accord all models ’84 thru ’89 Accord all models ’90 thru ’93 Accord all models ’94 thru ’95 Civic 1200 all models ’73 thru ’79 Civic 1300 & 1500 CVCC ’80 thru ’83 Civic 1500 CVCC all models ’75 thru ’79 Civic all models ’84 thru ’91 Civic & del Sol ’92 thru 95 Prelude CVCC all models ’79 thru ’89

HYUNDAI *43015

*47020

Hombre - see CHEVROLET S-10 (24071) Rodeo ’91 thru ’97; Amigo ’89 thru '94; Honda Passport 95 thru '97 Trooper & Pick-up, all gasoline models Pick-up, ’81 thru ’93; Trooper, ’84 thru ’91

*73015

Cutlass V6 & V8 gas models ’74 thru ’88 For other OLDSMOBILE titles, see BUICK, CHEVROLET or GENERAL MOTORS listing.

PLYMOUTH

50020 *50025 50029

79008 79018 79019

Fiero all models ’84 thru ’88 Firebird V8 models except Turbo ’70 thru ’81 Firebird all models ’82 thru ’92 For other PONTIAC titles, see BUICK, CHEVROLET or GENERAL MOTORS listing.

PORSCHE *80020 80025 80030 *80035

Cherokee, Comanche & Wagoneer Limited all models ’84 thru ’96 CJ all models ’49 thru ’86 Grand Cherokee all models ’93 thru ’98 Grand Wagoneer & Pick-up '72 thru ’91 Grand Wagoneer ’84 thru ’91, Cherokee &

RENAULT

LINCOLN 59010

Navigator - see FORD Pick-up (36059) Rear Wheel Drive all models ’70 thru ’96

MAZDA 61010 61011

GLC Hatchback (rear wheel drive) '77 thru ’83 GLC (front wheei drive) ’81 thru ’85

*61015 *61016 *61020

323 & Protogé ’90 thru ’97 MX-5 Miata ’90 thru ’97 MPV all models ’89 thru ’94 Navajo - see Ford Explorer (36024) Pick-ups ’72 thru ’93 Pick-ups ’94 thru ’96 - see Ford Ranger (36071) RX-7 all models ’79 thru ’85 RX-7 all models ’86 thru ’91

61030 61035 *61036 61040

*61041

626 (rear wheel drive) all models ’79 thru ’82

626/MX-6 (front wheel drive) ’83 thru ’91

MERCEDES-BENZ 63012 *63015 63020 63025 63030

123 Series Diesel ’76 thru ’85 190 Series four-cyl gas models, ’84 thru ’88 230/250/280 6 cyl sohc models ’68 thru ’72 280 123 Series gasoline models '77 thru ’81 350 & 450 all models ’71 thru ’80

MERCURY See FORD Listing.

MG 66010 66015

MGB Roadster & GT Coupe ’62 thru ’80 MG Midget, Austin Healey Sprite ’58 thru ’80

96017

96020 96030

96035 96040 96045

Beetle & Karmann Ghia '54 thru ’79 Dasher all gasoline models ’74 thru ’81 Rabbit, Jetta, Scirocco, & Pick-up gas models ’74 thru ’91 & Convertible ’80 thru 92 Golf & Jetta all models ’93 thru ’97 Rabbit, Jetta & Pick-up diesel ’77 thru ’84 Transporter 1600 all models ’68 thru ’79 Transporter 1700, 1800 & 2000 ’72 thru ’79 Type 3 1500 & 1600 all models ’63 thru '73 Vanagon all air-cooled models ’80 thru ’83

97010 97015 *97020 97025 *97040

120, 140 240 260 740

130 Series & 1800 Sports ’61 thru ’73 Series all models ’66 thru ’74 Series all models ’76 thru ’93 Series all models ’75 thru ’82 & 760 Series all models 82 thru ’88

TECHBOOK

XJ6 all 6 cyl models ’68 thru ’86 XJ6 all models ’88 thru 94 XJ12 & XJS all 12 cyl models ’72 thru ’85

Wrangler all models ’87 thru ’95

ves

96008 96012 *96016

k

911 914 924 944

except Turbo & Carrera 4 ’65 thru ’89 all 4 cyl models ’69 thru ’76 all models including Turbo ’76 thru ’82 all models including Turbo ’83 thru ’89

Alliance & Encore - see AMC (14020)

SAAB *84010

900 all models including Turbo ’79 thru ’88

Wagoneer ’72 thru ’83, Pick-up ’72 thru ’88

*50030

vw

For PLYMOUTH titles, see DODGE listing.

JEEP *50010

Spitfire all models ’62:thru ’81 TR7 all models ’75 thru 81

VOLVO

OLDSMOBILE

PONTIAC

JAGUAR *49010 *49011 *49015

300ZX all models including Turbo ’84 thru ’89 Altima all models ’93 thru ’97 Maxima all models 85 thru ’91 Pick-ups ’80 thru 96 Pathfinder ’87 thru ’95 Pulsar all models ’83 thru ’86 Sentra all models ’82 thru ’94 Sentra & 200SX all models '95 thru ’98 Stanza all models ’82 thru 90

Excel all models ’86 thru ’94

ISUZU *47017

72010 *72015 *72020 *72030 72040 *72050 *72051 *72060

94007 94010

SATURN 87010

Saturn all models ’91 thru ’96

SUBARU 89002 1100, 1300, 1400 & 1600 '71 thru ’79 *89003 1600 & 1800 2WD & 4WD 80 thru ’94 SUZUKI *90010

Samurai/Sidekick & Geo Tracker ’86 thru 96

TOYOTA 92005 92006 92015 *92020 92025 92030 92032 92035 *92036 92040 92045 92050 92055 92056 *92065 92070 *92075 *92076 *92080 92085

Camry all models ’83 thru ’91 Camry all models ’92 thru ’96 Celica Rear Wheel Drive ’71 thru ’85 Celica Front Wheel Drive ’86 thru ’93 Celica Supra all models ’79 thru ’92 Corolla all models ’75 thru ’79 Corolla all rear wheel drive models ’80 thru ’87 Corolla all front wheel drive models '84 thru ’92 Corolla & Geo Prizm ’93 thru '97 Corolla Tercel all models ’80 thru ’82 Corona all models ’74 thru ’82 Cressida all models ’78 thru ’82 Land Cruiser FJ40, 43, 45, 55 ’68 thru ’82 Land Cruiser FJ60, 62, 80, FZJ80 ’80 thru ’96 MR2 all models ’85 thru ’87 Pick-up all models ’69 thru ’78 Pick-up all models ’79 thru ’95 Tacoma ’95 thru 98, 4Runner ’96 thru ’98, & T100 ’93 thru ’98 Previa all models ’91 thru ’95 Tercel all models ’87 thru ’94

“ Listings shown with an asterisk (*) indicate model coverage as of this printing. These titles will be periodically updated to include later model years - consult your Haynes dealer for more information.

MANUALS

10205 10210 10215 10220 10225 10230

Automotive Computer Codes Automotive Emissions Control Manual Fuel Injection Manual, 1978 thru 1985 Fuel Injection Manual, 1986 thru 1996 Holley Carburetor Manual Rochester Carburetor Manual

10240 10305 10310 10320 10330 10340 10345 10355 10360 10405 10410 10415 10420 10425 10430 10435 10440 10445 10450

Weber/Zenith/Stromberg/SU Carburetors Chevrolet Engine Overhaul Manual Chrysler Engine Overhaul Manual Ford Engine Overhaul Manual GM and Ford Diesel Engine Repair Manual Small Engine Repair Manual Suspension, Steering & Driveline Manual Ford Automatic Transmission Overhaul GM Automatic Transmission Overhaul Automotive Body Repair & Painting Automotive Brake Manual Automotive Detaiing Manual Automotive Eelectrical Manual Automotive Heating & Air Conditioning Automotive Reference Manual & Dictionary Automotive Tools Manual Used Car Buying Guide Welding Manual ATV Basics

SPANISH 98903 98905 98910 98915 99040 99041

. 99042 99055 99075 99077 99083 99088 99091 99095 99100 99110 99118 99125

MANUALS

Reparacién de Carroceria & Pintura Cédigos Automotrices de la Computadora Frenos Automotriz Inyeccién de Combustible 1986 al 1994 Chevrolet & GMC Camionetas ’67 al '87 Incluye Suburban, Blazer & Jimmy ’67 al ’91 Chevrolet & GMC Camionetas ’88 al ’95

Incluye Suburban ’92 al ’95, Blazer & Jimmy ’92 al ’94, Tahoe y Yukon ’95 Chevrolet & GMC Camionetas Cerradas ‘68 al ‘95 Dodge Caravan & Plymouth Voyager ’84 al 95 Ford Camionetas y Bronco ’80 al '94 Ford Camionetas Cerradas ‘69 al ‘91 Ford Modelos de Tamafio Grande ‘75 al ‘87 Ford Modelos de Tamaiio Mediano ‘75 al ‘86 Ford Taurus & Mercury Sable ’86 al ’95 GM Modelos de Tamaiio Grande ‘70 al ‘90 GM Modelos de Tamafio Mediano ‘70 al ‘88 Nissan Camionetas ‘80 al ‘96, : Pathfinder ‘87 al ‘95 Nissan Sentra ‘82 al ‘94 Toyota Camionetas y 4Runner '79 al ’95

Over 100 Haynes motorcycle manuals also available

Haynes North America, Inc., 861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, CA 91320-1514 « (805) 498-6703

5-98

Common

spark plug conditions NORMAL Symptoms:

Brown

to grayish-tan

color and slight

electrode wear. Correct heat range for engine and operating conditions. | Recommendation: ' When new spark plugs are installed, replace with plugs of the same heat range.

WORN

TOO HOT

Symptoms: Rounded electrodes with a small amount of deposits on the firing end. Normal color. Causes hard starting in damp or cold weather and poor fuel economy.

Symptoms:

Recommendation: Plugs have been left in the engine too long. Replace

same

with

new

heat range.

ommended

CARBON

plugs

of the

Follow the rec-

maintenance schedule.

DEPOSITS

Symptoms: Dry sooty deposits indicate a rich mixture or weak ignition. Causes misfiring, hard starting and hesitation. Recommendation: Make sure the plug has the correct heat range. Check for a clogged air filter or problem in the fuel system or engine management system. Also check for ignition system problems.

ASH DEPOSITS Symptoms: Light brown deposits encrusted on the side or center

electrodes or both. Derived from oil and/or fuel additives. Excessive amounts may mask the spark, causing misfiring and hesitation during acceleration. Recommendation: _ |f excessive deposits accumulate over a short time or low mileage, install new valve guide seals to prevent seepage of oil into the combustion chambers. Also try changing gasoline brands.

OIL DEPOSITS Symptoms: Oily coating caused by poor oil control. Oil is leaking past worn valve guides or piston into the combustion chamber. es hard starting, misfiring and ation. ‘mmendation: Correct the anical condition with neces‘epairs and install new plugs.

Blistered, white insu-

lator, eroded electrode and absence of deposits. Results in shortened plug life. Recommendation: Check for the correct

plug

heat

range,

over-

advanced ignition timing, lean fuel mixture, intake manifold vacuum leaks, sticking valves and insufficient engine cooling.

PREIGNITION Symptoms: Melted electrodes. Insulators are white, but may be dirty due to misfiring or flying debris in the combustion chamber.

Can lead to engine damage. Recommendation: Check for the correct plug heat range, overadvanced ignition timing, Jean fuel mixture, insufficient engine cooling and lack of lubrication.

HIGH SPEED GLAZING Symptoms: Insulator has yellowish, glazed appearance. Indicates that combustion chamber temperatures have risen suddenly during hard acceleration. Normal deposits melt to form a conductive coating. Causes misfiring at high speeds. Recommendation: _|nstall new plugs. Consider using a colder plug if driving habits warrant.

DETONATION Symptoms: Insulators may be cracked or chipped. Improper gap setting techniques can also result in a fractured insulator tip. Can lead to piston damage. Recommendation: Make sure the fuel anti-knock values meet engine requirements. Use care when setting the gaps on new plugs. Avoid lugging the engine.

MECHANICAL DAMAGE ' BRIDGING itoms: Combustion deposits between the electrodes. / deposits accumulate and » the electrode gap. The plug s to fire, resulting in a dead er. mmendation: Locate the plug and remove the deposits yetween the electrodes.

Symptoms: May be caused by a foreign object in the combustion chamber or the piston striking an incorrect reach (too long) plug. Causes a dead cylinder ana could result in piston damage. Recommendation:

mechanical

damage.

foreign

object

and/or

install

plug.

from

Repair

the

Rernove the the

the correct

engine

reach

laynes mechanic, wuthor and hotographer with 1996 Uarysler Cirrus

Models covered by this manual: Chrisler Cirrus, Dodge Stratus ‘and Plymouth Breeze All ™opels,- 1995 meough 1998

r

te:

Hayriés Manuals Explain Best: « Step-by

-step procedures linked to hundreds of easy-to-follow photos

“9

Written from

“hands-on”. experience... using common tools

“¢ Wick and pasy troubleshooting sections ’* Detailed wiring diagrams __ *

¢

Color sparkplug diagnosis

\Mi Mill e,

iiss 58:

ISBN 1 56392 296 7§