Haynes Dodge Caravan & Plymouth Voyager Automotive Repair Manual [1231] 1563920808, 9781563920806

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Dodge Caravan & Plymouth Voyager Automotive Repair Manual by Curt Choate, Mike Stubblefield and John H Haynes Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers

Models covered: Dodge Caravan/Mini Ram Van and Plymouth Voyager 1984 through 1993 Does not include four-wheel drive information

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ASSOCIATION MEMBER Haynes Publishing Group Sparkford Nr Yeovil Somerset BA22 7JJ England Haynes North America, Inc 861 Lawrence Drive Newbury Park California 91320 USA

Acknowledgements We are grateful to the Chrysler Corporation for assistance with technical information, certain illustrations and vehicle photos.

The Champion Spark Plug Company supplied the illustrations of various spark plug conditions. Technical writers who contributed tothis project include Robert Maddox, Larry Warren and Doug Nelson. ©

Haynes North America, Inc.

1992, 1993

With permission from J.H. Haynes & Co. Ltd.

A book in the Haynes Automotive Repair Manual Series Printed in the U.S.A.

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 56392 080 8 Library of Congress Catalog Card Number 93-78154 While every attempt is made to ensure that the information in this manual is correct, no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given. _ eee rr www

Contents Introductory pages About this manual Introduction to the Doge Caravan and Plymouth Voyager Vehicle identification numbers Buying parts Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Booster battery (jump) starting Jacking and towing Automotive chemicals and lubricants Safety first! Conversion factors Troubleshooting

0-5 0-5 0-6 0-8 0-8 0-15 0-15 0-17 0-18 0-19 0-20

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

Chapter2

1-1

PartA

2.2L and 2.5L four-cylinder engines

2A-1

Chapter 2 PartB 2.6L four-cylinder engine

Chapter 2

PartC

3.0L V6 engine

Chapter 2

2C-1

PartD

3.3L V6 engine

Chapter 2

2B-1

2D-1

PartE

General engine overhaul procedures

2E-1

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

3-1

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

4-1

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

5-1

Chapter 6 Emissions control systems

Chapter7

PartA

Manual transaxle

Chapter 7

6-1

TA-1

PartB

Automatic transaxle

7B-1

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles

8-1

Chapter 9 Brakes

9-1

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

10-1

Chapter 11 Body

11-1

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

12-1

Wiring diagrams

12-16

Index

IND-1

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About this manual Its purpose The purpose of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done, even if you choose to have it done by a dealer service department or a repair shop; it provides information and procedures for routine maintenance and servicing; and it offers diagnostic and repair procedures to follow when trouble occurs. We hope you use the manual to tackle the work yourself. For many simpler jobs, doing it yourself may be quicker than arranging an appointment to get the vehicle into a shop and making the trips to leave it and pick it up. More importantly, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the expense the shop must pass on to you to cover its labor and overhead costs. An added benefit is the sense of satisfaction and accomplishment that you feel after doing the job yourself.

Using the manual The manual is divided into Chapters. Each Chapter is divided into numbered Sections, which are headed in bold type between horizontal

lines. Each Section consists of consecutively numbered paragraphs. At the beginning of each numbered Section you will be referred to any illustrations which apply to the procedures in that Section. The reference numbers used in illustration captions pinpoint the pertinent Section and the Step within that Section. That is, illustration 3.2 means the illustration refers to Section 3 and Step (or paragraph) 2 within that Section. Procedures, once described in the text, are not normally repeated. When it’s necessary to refer to another Chapter, the reference will be given as Chapter and Section number. Cross references given without use of the word "Chapter” apply to Sections and/or paragraphs in the same Chapter. For example, "see Section 8” means in the same Chapter. References to the left or right side of the vehicle assume you are sitting in the driver’s seat, facing forward. Even though we have prepared this manual with extreme care, neither the publisher nor the author can accept responsibility for any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

NOTE A Note provides information necessary to properly complete a procedure or information which will make the procedure easier to understand.

CAUTION A Caution provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the Caution is found. Not heeding a Caution can result in damage to the assembly being worked on.

WARNING A Warning provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the Warning is found. Not heeding a Warning can result in personal injury.

Introduction to the Dodge Caravan and Plymouth Voyager Dodge Caravan and Plymouth Voyager models are front engine, front-wheel drive mini-vans. The transverse-mounted, inline four-cylinder and V6 engines used in these models are equipped with a carburetor or fuel- injection system (both single-point and multi-point fuel injection systems are available). The engine drives the front wheels through either a four- or fivespeed manual or three- or four-speed automatic transaxle via

independent driveaxles. Independent suspension, featuring coil springs and struts, is used at the front wheels. A beam-type axle, with struts and leaf springs, is used at the rear wheels. The rack and pinion steering unit is mounted behind the engine. The brakes are disc at the front and drums at the rear, with power assist available on most models.

Vehicle identification numbers :

VN, PLATE LOCATION

123

567

123

5678

1234

9101) 141516

18 19 20 21 22 23

678910111213 1415 16

18 19 20 21 22 23

101112

Typical body code plate

The Vehicle Identification Number is visible from outside the

vehicle through the driver’s side of the windshield

Modifications are a continuing and unpublicized process in vehicle manufacturing. Since spare parts lists are compiled on a numerical basis, the individual vehicle numbers are essential to correctly identify the component required.

Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) This very important identification number is stamped on a plate attached to the left side of the dashboard, just inside the windshield on the driver’s side of the vehicle (see illustration). The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certificate of Title and Registration. It contains information such as where and when the vehicle was manufactured, the

model year and the body style.

The body code plate is located in the engine compartment, on top of the radiator support

Body code plate This metal plate is located in the engine compartment, on top of the radiator support (see illustration). Like the VIN, it contains valuable information concerning the production of the vehicle as well as information about the way in which the vehicle is equipped. This plate is especially useful for matching the color and type of paint during repair work.

Vehicle safety certification label This label is affixed to the rear face of the driver’s door. The plate contains the name of the manufacturer, the month and year of production, the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the certification statement.

LOCATION OF E.1.N. ON ENGINE BLOCK

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Location of the engine identification number on 2.2L and 2.5L engines

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Location of the engine identification number on 2.6L and : 3.0L engines

T.I.N. LOCATION

SERIAL NO.

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ASSEMBLY PART NUMBER

Location of the engine serial number on 2.6L and 3.0L engines

LOCATION

Transaxle number locations

Engine Identification Number

Transaxle Identification Number (TIN)

The Engine Identification Number (EIN) is stamped into a machined boss on the engine block. On 2.2L and 2.5L engines, it is stamped into the left end of the engine block, just above the transaxle bellhousing (see illustration). On 2.6L and 3.0L engines, it is on the radiator side of the block, between the core plug and the rear of the block (see illustration).

The transaxle identification number is stamped into the boss on the upper surface of the housing (see illustration).

Engine serial numbers In addition to the EIN, a serial number, which is required when buying replacement parts, is also stamped into the block. On 2.2L and

2.5L engines, it is located just below the EIN on the block. On 2.6L and 3.0L engines, it is located on the right-rear side of the engine block, adjacent to the exhaust manifold stud (dashboard side of the vehicle) (see illustration).

Transaxle serial number The transaxle serial number, also called the assembly part number, is required when buying parts. On manual transaxles, it is located on a metal tag attached to the front side of the transaxle. On automatic transaxle models, it is located on a pad just above the oil pan at the rear of the transaxle.

Vehicle Emissions Control Information label This label is located under the hood, usually attached to the front edge of the hood, on the underside (see Chapter 6 for more information on this label).

Buying parts Replacement parts are available from many sources, which generally fall into one of two categories - authorized dealer parts departments and independent retail auto parts stores. Our advice concerning these parts is as follows: Retail auto parts stores: Good auto parts stores will stock frequently needed components which wear out relatively fast, such as clutch components, exhaust systems, brake parts, tune#up parts, etc. These stores often supply new or reconditioned parts on an exchange basis, which can save a considerable amount of money. Discount auto parts stores are often very good places to buy materials and parts needed for general vehicle maintenance such as oil, grease, filters, spark plugs, belts, touch#up paint, bulbs, etc. They also usually sell

tools and general accessories, have convenient hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home. Authorized dealer parts department: This is the best source for parts which are unique to the vehicle and not generally available elsewhere (such as major engine parts, transmission parts, trim pieces, etc.). Warranty information: \f the vehicle is still covered under warranty, be sure that any replacement parts purchased - regardless of the source - do not invalidate the warranty! To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, have engine and chassis numbers available and, if possible, take the old parts along for positive identification.

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Maintenance techniques There are a number of techniques involved in maintenance and repair that will be referred to throughout this manual. Application of these techniques will enable the home mechanic to be more efficient, better organized and capable o;f performing the various tasks properly, which will ensure that the repair job is thorough and complete.

Fasteners Fasteners are nuts, boits, studs and screws used to hold two or more parts together. There are a few things to keep in mind when

working with fasteners. Almost all of them use a locking device of some type, either a lockwasher, locknut, locking tab or thread adhesive. All threaded fasteners should be clean and straight, with undam-

aged threads and undamaged corners on the hex head where the wrench fits. Develop the habit of replacing all damaged nuts and bolts with new ones. Special locknuts with nylon or fiber inserts can only be used once. If they are removed, they lose their locking ability and must

be replaced with new ones.

Rusted nuts and bolts should be treated with a penetrating fluid to ease removal and prevent breakage. Some mechanics use turpentine in a spout#type oil can, which works quite well. After applying the rust penetrant, let it work for a few minutes before trying to loosen the nut

or bolt. Badly rusted fasteners may have to be chiseled or sawed off or removed with a special nut breaker, available at tool stores. If a bolt or stud breaks off in an assembly, it can be drilled and removed with a special tool commonly available for this purpose. Most automotive machine shops can perform this task, as well as other repair procedures, such as the repair of threaded holes that have been stripped out. Flat washers and lockwashers, when removed frorn an assembly, should always be replaced exactly as removed. Replace any damaged washers with new ones. Never use a lockwasher on any soft metal

surface (such as aluminum), thin sheet metal or plastic.

0-9

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Fastener sizes For a number of reasons, automobile manufacturers are making wider and wider use of metric fasteners. Therefore, it is important to be able to tell the difference between standard (sometimes called U.S. or SAE) and metric hardware, since they cannot be interchanged. All bolts, whether standard or metric, are sized according to diameter, thread pitch and length. For example, a standard 1/2 - 13 x 1 bolt is 1/2 inch in diameter, has 13 threads per inch and is 1 inch long. An M12 - 1.75 x 25 metric bolt is 12 mm in diameter, has a thread pitch of 1.75 mm (the distance between threads) and is 25 mm long. The two bolts are nearly identical, and easily confused, but they are not interchangeable. In addition to the differences in diameter, thread pitch and length, metric and standard bolts can also be distinguished by examining the bolt heads. To begin with, the distance across the flats on a standard bolt head is measured in inches, while the same dimension on a metric bolt is sized in millimeters (the same is true for nuts). As a result, a standard wrench should not be used on a metric bolt and a metric

wrench should not be used on a standard bolt. Also, most standard bolts have slashes radiating out from the center of the head to denote the grade or strength of the bolt, which is an indication of the amount of torque that can be applied to it. The greater the number of slashes, the greater the strength of the bolt. Grades 0 through 5 are commonly used on automobiles. Metric bolts have a property class (grade) number, rather than a slash, molded into their heads to indicate bolt strength. In this case, the higher the number, the stronger the bolt. Property class numbers 8.8, 9.8 and 10.9 are commonly used on automobiles. Strength markings can also be used to distinguish standard hex nuts from metric hex nuts. Many standard nuts have dots stamped into one side, while metric nuts are marked with a number. The greater the number of dots, or the higher the number, the greater the strength of the nut. Metric studs are also marked on their ends according to property class (grade). Larger studs are numbered (the same as metric bolts), while smaller studs carry a geometric code to denote grade.

Grade 1 or 2

Bolt strength markings (top - standard/SAE/USS; bottom - metric

Grade

Identification

Class

Identification

Hex Nut Property Class 9

Hex Nut Grade 5

3 Dots

Arabic 9 Hex

Hex Nut Grade 8

Nut

Property Class 10

6 Dots Standard hex nut strength markings

Arabic10 Metric hex nut strength markings

"VV OD © CLASS 10.9

CLASS 9.8 Metric stud length markings

CLASS 8.8

0-10

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

It should be noted that many fasteners, especially Grades 0 through 2, have no distinguishing marks on them. When such is the case, the only way to determine whether it is standard or metric is to measure the thread pitch or compare it to a known fastener of the same size. Standard fasteners are often referred to as SAE, as opposed to metric. However, it should be noted that SAE technically refers to a non#metric fine thread fastener only. Coarse thread non#metric fasteners are referred to as USS sizes. Since fasteners of the same size (both standard and metric) may have different strength ratings, be sure to reinstall any bolts, studs or nuts removed from your vehicle in their original locations. Also, when replacing a fastener with a new one, make sure that the new one has a strength rating equal to or greater than the original.

Tightening sequences and procedures Most threaded fasteners should be tightened to a specific torque value (torque is the twisting force applied to a threaded component such as a nut or bolt). Overtightening the fastener can weaken it and cause it to break, while undertightening can cause it to eventually come loose. Bolts, screws and studs, depending on the material they are made of and their thread diameters, have specific torque values, many of which are noted in the Specifications at the beginning of each Chapter. Be sure to follow the torque recommendations closely. For fasteners not assigned a specific torque, a general torque value chart is presented here as a guide. These torque values are for dry (unlubricated) fasteners threaded into steel or cast iron (not aluminum). As was previously mentioned, the size and grade of a fastener determine

Ft-lbs Wada ta cictecoe tepticewes Gass sen artes ei Aies saiasdieers 6 to9 ME ia ese cs NE Ment Ca Sere 14 to 21 Whos lO icscxucas ousnue e oem ne aeen tral nso Rhos 28 to 40 MED bs enc eal Aa a ovdaetaoe 50 to 71 a ee OCR ee” AAC e 5. nn acces 80 to 140 Pipe thread sizes ME z dsc niche nov sade eheneae ee ta sesemiencens 5 to 8 ATA MRMOMNRE 2. shadiacd sh Ska rondcceeeosaecae Wale 12 to 18 Te ie ie. Se eee EMA. S Sosuevasdecs 22 to 33 1S et Oe ne re ry See 25 to 35 U.S. thread sizes TA CU es cert anes tens Peat: 6to9 Tho ERM eee prOe RRS afonardaeee 12 to 18 GCS ae ee eee eric 14 to 20 YS eee ee xe On ee Sei 22 to 32 GIB OA caer sigiceeieh rea uticd Rea cise ayassedinees 27 to 38 ial hos bas.ecm aren aaah eve ac Soseehesew 40 to 55 01 Oe re atte, eee oe florPipe oesse 40 to 60 (UAT: OE, SN ae Ae SA ae eats Re: 55 to 80

Nm

Metric thread sizes

Standard (SAE and USS) bolt dimensions/grade marks G_ L T D

Grade marks (bolt length) Length (in inches) Thread pitch (number of threads per inch) Nominal diameter (in inches)

9 to 12

19 to 28 38 to 54 68 to 96 109 to 154 7 to 10

17 to 24 30 to 44 34 to 47 9 to 12 17 to 24 19 to 27 30 to 43 37 to 51 55 to 74 55 to 81 75 to 108

Metric bolt dimensions/grade marks Property class (bolt strength) Length (in millimeters) Thread pitch (distance between threads in millimeters) Loi aa, pe

Diameter

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities the amount of torque that can safely be applied to it. The figures listed here are approximate for Grade 2 and Grade 3 fasteners. Higher grades can tolerate higher torque values. Fasteners laid out in a pattern, such as cylinder head bolts, oil pan bolts, differential cover bolts, etc., must be loosened or tightened in sequence to avoid warping the component. This sequence will normally be shown in the appropriate Chapter. If a specific pattern is not given, the following procedures can be used to prevent warping. Initially, the bolts or nuts should be assembled finger#tight only. Next, they should be tightened one full turn each, in a criss#cross or diagonal pattern. After each one has been tightened one full turn, return to the first one and tighten them all one#half turn, following the same pattern. Finally, tighten each of them one#quarter turn at a time until each fastener has been tightened to the proper torque. To loosen and remove the fasteners, the procedure would be reversed.

Component disassembly Component disassembly should be done with care and purpose to help ensure that the parts go back together properly. Always keep track of the sequence in which parts are removed. Make note of special characteristics or marks on parts that can be installed more than one way, such as a grooved thrust washer on a shaft. It is a good idea to lay the disassembled parts out on a clean surface in the order that they were removed. It may also be helpful to make sketches or take instant photos of components before removal. When removing fasteners from a component, keep track of their locations. Sometimes threading a bolt back in a part, or putting the washers and nut back on a stud, can prevent mix#ups later. If nuts and bolts cannot be returned to their original locations, they should be kept in a compartmented box or a series of small boxes. A cupcake or muffin tin is ideal for this purpose, since each cavity can hold the bolts and nuts from a particular area (i.e. oil pan bolts, valve cover bolts, engine mount bolts, etc.). A pan of this type is especially helpful when working on assemblies with very small parts, such as the carburetor,

gasket sealer should be used.

Hose removal tips Warning: If the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, do not disconnect any of the A/C hoses without first having the system depressurized by a dealer service department or a service station. Hose removal precautions closely parallel gasket removal precautions. Avoid scratching or gouging the surface that the hose mates against or the connection may leak. This is especially true for radiator hoses. Because of various chemical reactions, the rubber in hoses can bond itself to the metal spigot that the hose fits over. To remove a hose, first loosen the hose clamps that secure it to the spigot. Then, with slip#joint pliers, grab the hose at the clamp and rotate it around the spigot. Work it back and forth until it is completely free, then pull it off. Silicone or other lubricants will ease removal if they can be applied between the hose and the outside of the spigot. Apply the same lubricant to the inside of the hose and the outside of the spigot to simplify installation. As a last resort (and if the hose is to be replaced with a new one anyway), the rubber can be slit with a knife and the hose peeled from the spigot. If this must be done, be careful that the metal connection is not damaged. If a hose clamp is broken or damaged, do not reuse it. Wire#type clamps usually weaken with age, so it is a good idea to replace them with screw#type clamps whenever a hose is removed.

Tools A selection of good tools is a basic requirement for anyone who plans to maintain and repair his or her own vehicle. For the owner who has few tools, the initial investment might seem high, but when compared to the spiraling costs of professional auto maintenance and repair, it is a wise one.

alternator, valve train or interior dash and trim pieces. The cavities can

be marked with paint or tape to identify the contents. Whenever wiring looms, harnesses or connectors are separated, it is a good idea to identify the two halves with numbered pieces of masking tape so they can be easily reconnected.

Gasket sealing surfaces Throughout faces between sure contained Many times

any vehicle, gaskets are used to seal the mating surtwo parts and keep lubricants, fluids, vacuum or presin an assembly. these gaskets are coated with a liquid or paste#type

gasket sealing compound before assembly. Age, heat and pressure

can sometimes cause the two parts to stick together so tightly that they are very difficult to separate. Often, the assembly can be loosened by striking it with a soft-face hammer near the mating surfaces. A regular hammer can be used if a block of wood is placed between the hammer and the part. Do not hammer on cast parts or parts that could be easily damaged. With any particularly stubborn part, always recheck to make sure that every fastener has been removed. Avoid using a screwdriver or bar to pry apart an assembly, as they can easily mar the gasket sealing surfaces of the parts, which must remain smooth. If prying is absolutely necessary, use an old broom handle, but keep in mind that extra clean up will be necessary if the wood splinters. After the parts are separated, the old gasket must be carefully scraped off and the gasket surfaces cleaned. Stubborn gasket material can be soaked with rust penetrant or treated with a special chemical to soften it so it can be easily scraped off. A scraper can be fashioned from a piece of copper tubing by flattening and sharpening one end. Copper is recommended because it is usually softer than the surfaces to be scraped, which reduces the chance of gouging the part. Some gaskets can be removed with a wire brush, but regardless of the method used, the mating surfaces must be left clean and smooth. If for some reason the gasket surface is gouged, then a gasket sealer thick enough to fill scratches will have to be used during reassembly of the components. For most applications, a non-drying (or semi-drying)

0-11

Micrometer set

Dial indicator set

0-12

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Timing light

Compression gauge with spark plug

hole adapter

Damper/steering wheel puller

General purpose puller

Hydraulic lifter removal tool

Valve spring compressor

Valve spring compressor

Ridge reamer

Piston ring groove cleaning tool

Ring removal/installation tool

0-13

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Ring compressor

Cylinder hone

Brake hold-down spring tool

Brake cylinder hone

Clutch plate alignment tool

Tap and die set

To help the owner decide which tools are needed to perform the tasks detailed in this manual, the following tool lists are offered: Maintenance and minor repair, Repair/overhaul and Special. The newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the maintenance and minor repair tool kit, which is adequate for the simpler jobs performed on a vehicle. Then, as confidence and experience grow, the owner can tackle more difficult tasks, buying additional tools as they are needed. Eventually the basic kit will be expanded into the repair and overhaul tool set. Over a period of time, the experienced do#it#yourselfer will assemble a tool set complete enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the special category when it is felt that the expense is justified by the frequency of use.

Oil filter wrench Funnel (medium size) Safety goggles Jackstands(2) Drain pan Note: /f basic tune#tups are going to be part of routine maintenance, it will be necessary to purchase a good quality stroboscopic timing light and combination tachometer/dwell meter. Although they are included in the list of special tools, it is mentioned here because they are absolutely necessary for tuning most vehicles properly.

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit

These tools are essential for anyone who plans to perform major repairs and are in addition to those in the maintenance and minor repair tool kit. Included is a comprehensive set of sockets which, though expensive, are invaluable because of their versatility, especially when various extensions and drives are available. We recommend the 1/2#inch drive over the 3/8#inch drive. Although the larger drive is bulky and more expensive, it has the capacity of accepting a very wide range of large sockets. Ideally, however, the mechanic should have a 3/8#inch drive set and a 1/2#inch drive set. Socket set(s)

The tools in this list should be considered the minimum required for performance of routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair work. We recommend the purchase of combination wrenches (box#end and open#end combined in one wrench). While more expensive than open end wrenches, they offer the advantages of both types of wrench. Combination wrench set (1/4#inch to 7 inch or 6 mm to 19 mm) Adjustable wrench, 8 inch

Spark plug wrench with rubber insert Spark plug gap adjusting tool Feeler gauge set Brake bleeder wrench Standard screwdriver (5/16#inch x 6 inch) Phillips screwdriver (No. 2 x 6 inch) Combination pliers - 6 inch Hacksaw and assortment of blades Tire pressure gauge Grease gun Oil can Fine emery cloth Wire brush Battery post and cable cleaning tool

Repair and overhaul tool set

Reversible ratchet Extension - 10 inch Universal joint Torque wrench (same size drive as sockets) Ball peen hammer - 8 ounce Soft-face hammer (plastic/rubber) Standard screwdriver (1/4-inch x 6 inch) Standard screwdriver (stubby - 5/16-inch) Phillips screwdriver (No. 3 x 8 inch) Phillips screwdriver (stubby - No. 2) Pliers - vise grip Pliers - lineman’s

0-14

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Pliers - needle nose Pliers - snap#ring (internal and external) Cold chisel - 1/2#inch Scribe Scraper (made from flattened copper tubing) Centerpunch Pin punches (1/16, 1/8, 3/16#inch) Steel rule/straightedge - 12 inch Allen wrench set (1/8 to 3/8#inch or 4mm to 10 mm) A selection of files Wire brush (large) Jackstands (second set) Jack (scissor or hydraulic type) Note: Another too! which is often useful is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of 3/8#inch and a set of good quality drill bits

Special tools The tools in this list include those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturer’s instructions. Unless these tools will be used frequently, it is not very economical to purchase many of them. A consideration would be to split the cost and use between yourself and a friend or friends. In addition, most of these tools can be obtained from a tool rental shop on a temporary basis. This list primarily contains only those tools and instruments widely available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer for distribution to dealer service departments. Occasionally, references to the manufacturer’s special tools are included in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the special tool is offered. However, sometimes there is no alternative to their use. Where this is the case, and the tool cannot be purchased or borrowed, the work should be turned over to the dealer service department or an automotive repair shop. Valve spring compressor Piston ring groove cleaning tool Piston ring compressor Piston ring installation tool

Cylinder compression gauge Cylinder ridge reamer Cylinder surfacing hone Cylinder bore gauge Micrometers and/or dial calipers Hydraulic lifter removal tool Balljoint separator Universal-type puller Impact screwdriver Dial indicator set Stroboscopic timing light (inductive pick-up) Hand operated vacuum/pressure pump Tachometer/dwell meter Universal electrical multimeter Cable hoist Brake spring removal and installation tools Floor jack

Buying tools For the do#it#yourselfer who is just starting to get involved in vehicle maintenance and repair, there are a number of options available when purchasing tools. If maintenance and minor repair is the extent of the work to be done, the purchase of individual tools is satisfactory. If, on the other hand, extensive work is planned, it would be a good idea to purchase a modest tool set from one of the large retail chain stores. A set can usually be bought at a substantial savings over the

individual tool prices, and they often come with a tool box. As additional tools are needed, add-on sets, individual tools and a larger tool box can be purchased to expand the tool selection. Building a tool set gradually allows the cost of the tools to be spread over a longer period of time and gives the mechanic the freedom to choose only those tools that will actually be used. Tool stores will often be the only source of some of the special tools that are needed, but regardless of where tools are bought, try to avoid cheap ones, especially when buying screwdrivers and sockets, because they won’t last very long. The expense involved in replacing cheap tools will eventually be greater than the initial cost of quality tools.

Care and maintenance of tools Good tools are expensive, so it makes sense to treat them with respect. Keep them clean and in usable condition and store them properly when not in use. Always wipe off any dirt, grease or metal chips before putting them away. Never leave tools lying around in the work area. Upon completion of a job, always check closely under the hood for tools that may have been left there so they won’t get lost during a test drive. Some tools, such as screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches and sockets, can be hung on a panel mounted on the garage or workshop wall, while others should be kept in a tool box or tray. Measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc. must be caref ully stored where they cannot be damaged by weather or impact from other tools. When tools are used with care and stored properly, they will last a very long time. Even with the best of care, though, tools will wear out if used frequently. When a tool is damaged or worn out, replace it. Sub-

sequent jobs will be safer and more enjoyable if you do.

Working

facilities

Not to be overlooked when discussing tools is the workshop. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some sort of suitable work area is essential. It is understood, and appreciated, that many home mechanics do not have a good workshop or garage available, and end up removing an engine or doing major repairs outside. It is recommended, however, that the overhaul or repair be completed under the cover of a roof. A clean, flat workbench or table of comfortable working height is an absolute necessity. The workbench should be equipped with a vise that has a jaw opening of at least four inches. As mentioned previously, some clean, dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as the lubricants, fluids, cleaning solvents, etc. which soon become necessary. Sometimes waste oil and fluids, drained from the engine or cooling system during normal maintenance or repairs, present a disposal problem. To avoid pouring them on the ground or into a sewage system, pour the used fluids into large containers, seal them with caps and take them to an authorized disposal site or recycling center. Plastic jugs, such as old antifreeze containers, are ideal for this purpose. Always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean rags available. Old towels are excellent for mopping up spills. Many mechanics use rolls of paper towels for most work because they are readily available and disposable. To help keep the area under the vehicle clean, a large cardboard box can be cut open and flattened to protect the garage or shop floor. Whenever working over a painted surface, such as when leaning over a fender to service something under the hood, always cover it with an old blanket or bedspread to protect the finish. Vinyl covered pads, made especially for this purpose, are available at auto parts stores.

Booster battery (jump) starting Observe these precautions when using a booster battery to start a vehicle: a) Before connecting the booster battery, make sure the ignition

switch is in the Off position. b) Turn off the lights, heater and other electrical loads. c) Your eyes should be shielded. Safety goggles are a good idea. d) Make sure the booster battery is the same voltage as the dead one in the vehicle. e) The two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other! f) Make sure the transaxle is in Neutral (manual) or Park (automatic). g) If the booster battery is not a maintenance-free type, remove the vent caps and lay a cloth over the vent holes. Connect the red jumper cable to the positive (+) terminals of each battery (see illustration). Connect one end of the black jumper cable to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery. The other end of this cable should be connected to a good ground on the vehicle to be started, such as a bolt or bracket on the body. Start the engine using the booster battery, then, with the engine running at idle speed, disconnect the jumper cables in the reverse order of connection.

Make the booster battery cable connections in the numerical

order shown (note that the negative cable of the booster battery is NOT attached to the negative terminal of the dead battery)

Jacking and towing Jacking Warning: The jack supplied with the vehicle should only be used for raising the vehicle when changing a tire or placing jackstands under the frame. Never work under the vehicle or start the engine while the jack is being used as the only means of support.

JACK LOCATOR PIN

The vehicle must be on a level surface with the wheels blocked, the

hazard flashers on and the transaxle in Park (automatic) or (manual). Apply the parking brake if the front of the vehicle raised. Make sure no one is in the vehicle when using the jack Remove the jack, lug nut wrench and spare tire (if needed)

Reverse must be to lift it. from the

vehicle. If a tire is being changed, use the lug wrench to remove the wheel cover. Warning: Wheel covers may have sharp edges - be very careful not to cut yourself. Loosen the lug nuts one-half turn, but leave them in place until the tire is off the ground. Position the jack under the vehicle at the indicated jacking point. There’s a jack locator pin near each wheel (see illustrations). Turn the jack handle clockwise until the tire clears the ground. Remove the lug nuts, pull the tire off and install the spare. Thread the lug nuts back on with the beveled edges facing in and tighten them snugly. Don’t attempt to tighten them completely until the vehicle is lowered to the ground.

The jack supplied with the vehicle fits over a pin on the underside of the vehicle - there’s one near each wheell

DRIVE ON HOIST FRAME CONTACT HOIST

TWIN POST HOIST FLOOR JACK

Hoist and jacking points

Turn the jack handle counterclockwise to lower the vehicle. Remove the jack and tighten the lug nuts (if loosened or removed) in a crisscross pattern. If possible, use a torque wrench to tighten them (see Chapter 1 for the torque figures). If you don’t have a torque wrench, have the nuts checked by a service station or repair shop as soon as possible. Stow the tire, jack and wrench and unblock the wheels.

Towing Vehicles with an automatic transaxle can be towed with all four wheels on the ground, provided that speeds do not exceed 25 mph and the distance is not over 15 miles. Otherwise, transmission damage can result. If the transmission is damaged or the distance will exceed 15 miles, the vehicle must be towed with the front wheels off the

ground. Vehicles with a manual transaxle can be towed at any legal highway speed for any distance. If the vehicle has a damaged transaxle, tow it only with the front wheels off the ground. Towing equipment specifically designed for this purpose should be used and should be attached to the main structural members of the vehicle and not the bumper or brackets. Safety is a major consideration when towing and all applicable state and local laws must be obeyed. A safety chain system must be used for all towing. While towing, the parking brake should be released and the transmission must be in Neutral. The steering must be unlocked (ignition switch in the Off position). Remember that power steering and power brakes will not work with the engine off.

Automotive chemicals and lubricants A number of automotive chemicals and lubricants are available for use during vehicle maintenance and repair. They include a wide variety of products ranging from cleaning solvents and degreasers to lubricants and protective sprays for rubber, plastic and vinyl.

Cleaners Carburetor cleaner and choke cleaner is a strong solvent for gum, varnish and carbon. Most carburetor cleaners leave a dry#type lubricant film which will not harden or gum up. Because of this film it is not recommended for use on electrical components Brake system cleaner is used to remove grease and brake fluid from the brake system, where clean surfaces are absolutely necessary. It leaves no residue and often eliminates brake squeal caused by contaminants. Electrical cleaner removes oxidation, corrosion and carbon deposits from electrical contacts, restoring full current flow. It can also be used to clean spark plugs, carburetor jets, voltage regulators and other parts where an oil#free surface is desired. Demoisturants remove water and moisture from electrical components such as alternators, voltage regulators, electrical connectors and fuse blocks. They are non-conductive, non-corrosive and nonflammable. Degreasers are heavy-duty solvents used to remove grease from the outside of the engine and from chassis components. They can be sprayed or brushed on and, depending on the type, are rinsed off either with water or solvent.

Lubricants Motor oil is the lubricant formulated for use in engines. It normally contains a wide variety of additives to prevent corrosion and reduce foaming and wear. Motor oil comes in various weights (viscosity ratings) from 5 to 80. The recommended weight of the oil depends on the season, temperature and the demands on the engine. Light oil is used in cold climates and under light load conditions. Heavy oil is used in

hot climates and where high loads are encountered. Multi-viscosity oils are designed to have characteristics of both light and heavy oils and are available in a number of weights from 5W-20 to 20W-50. Gear oil is designed to be used in differentials, manual transmissions and other areas where high-temperature lubrication is required. Chassis and wheel bearing grease is a heavy grease used where increased loads and friction are encountered, such as for wheel bearings, balljoints, tie-rod ends and universal joints. High-temperature wheel bearing grease is designed to withstand the extreme temperatures encountered by wheel bearings in disc brake equipped vehicles. It usually contains molybdenum disulfide (moly), which is a dry-type lubricant. White grease is a heavy grease for metal#to#metal applications where water is a problem. White grease stays soft under both low and high temperatures (usually from -100 to +190-degrees F), and will not wash off or dilute in the presence of water.

Assembly lube is a special extreme pressure lubricant, usually containing moly, used to lubricate high-load parts (such as main and rod bearings and cam lobes) for initial start-up of a new engine. The assembly lube lubricates the parts without being squeezed out or washed away until the engine oiling system begins to function. Silicone lubricants are used to protect rubber, plastic, vinyl and nylon parts. Graphite lubricants are used where oils cannot be used due to contamination problems, such as in locks. The dry graphite will lubricate metal parts while remaining uncontaminated by dirt, water, oil or acids. It is electrically conductive and will not foul electrical contacts in locks such as the ignition switch. Moly penetrants loosen and lubricate frozen, rusted and corroded fasteners and prevent future rusting or freezing. Heat-sink grease is a special electrically non#conductive grease

that is used for mounting electronic ignition modules where it is essential that heat is transferred away from the module.

Sealants RTV sealant is one of the most widely used gasket compounds. Made from silicone, RTV is air curing, it seals, bonds, waterproofs, fills surface irregularities, remains flexible, doesn’t shrink, is relatively easy to remove, and is used as a supplementary sealer with almost all low and medium temperature gaskets.

Anaerobic sealant is much like RTV in that it can be used either to seal gaskets or to form gaskets by itself. It remains flexible, is solvent resistant and fills surface imperfections. The difference between an anaerobic sealant and an RTV-type sealant is in the curing. RTV cures when exposed to air, while an anaerobic sealant cures only in the absence of air. This means that an anaerobic sealant cures only after the assembly of parts, sealing them together. Thread and pipe sealant is used for sealing hydraulic and pneumatic fittings and vacuum lines. It is usually made from a Teflon compound, and comes in a spray, a paint-on liquid and as a wrap-around tape.

Chemicals Anti-seize compound prevents seizing, galling, cold welding, rust and corrosion in fasteners. High-temperature ant-seize, usually made with copper and graphite lubricants, is used for exhaust system and exhaust manifold bolts. Anaerobic locking compounds are used to keep fasteners from vibrating or working loose and cure only after installation, in the absence of air. Medium strength locking compound is used for small nuts, bolts and screws that may be removed later. High-strength locking compound is for large nuts, bolts and studs which aren’t removed ona regular basis. Oil additives range from viscosity index improvers to chemical treatments that claim to reduce internal engine friction. It should be noted that most oil manufacturers caution against using additives with their oils. Gas additives perform several functions, depending on their chemical makeup. They usually contain solvents that help dissolve gum and varnish that build up on carburetor, fuel injection and intake parts. They also serve to break down carbon deposits that form on the inside surfaces of the combustion chambers. Some additives contain upper cylinder lubricants for valves and piston rings, and others contain chemicals to remove condensation from the gas tank.

Miscellaneous Brake fluid is specially formulated hydraulic fluid that can withstand the heat and pressure encountered in brake systems. Care must be taken so this fluid does not come in contact with painted surfaces or plastics. An opened container should always be resealed to prevent contamination by water or dirt. Weatherstrip adhesive is used to bond weatherstripping around doors, windows and trunk lids. It is sometimes used to attach trim pieces. Undercoating is a petroleum-based, tar-like substance that is de-

signed to protect metal surfaces on the underside of the vehicle from corrosion. It also acts as a sound-deadening agent by insulating the bottom of the vehicle. Waxes and polishes are used to help protect painted and plated surfaces from the weather. Different types of paint may require the use of different types of wax and polish. Some polishes utilize a chemical or abrasive cleaner to help remove the top layer of oxidized (dull) paint on older vehicles. In recent years many non-wax polishes that contain

a wide variety of chemicals such as polymers and silicones have been introduced. These non-wax polishes are usually easier to apply and last longer than conventional waxes and polishes.

Safety first Regardless of how enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job at hand, take the time to ensure that your safety is not jeopardized.

A moment’s lack of attention can result in an accident, as can

failure to observe certain simple safety precautions. The possibility of an accident will always exist, and the following points should not be considered a comprehensive list of all dangers. Rather, they are intended to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safety conscious approach to all work you carry out on your vehicle.

Essential DOs and DON’Ts DON’T rely on a jack when working under the vehicle. Always use approved jackstands to support the weight of the vehicle and place them under the recommended lift or support points. DON’T attempt to loosen extremely tight fasteners (i.e. wheel lug nuts) while the vehicle is on a jack - it may fall. DON’T start the engine without first making sure that the transmission is in Neutral (or Park where applicable) and the parking brake is set. DON’T remove the radiator cap from a hot cooling system - let it cool or cover it with a cloth and release the pressure gradually. DON’T attempt to drain the engine oil until you are sure it has cooled to the point that it will not burn you. DON’T touch any part of the engine or exhaust system until it has cooled sufficiently to avoid burns. DON’T siphon toxic liquids such as gasoline, antifreeze and brake fluid by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin. DON’T inhale brake lining dust - it is potentially hazardous (see Asbestos below) DON’T allow spilled oil or grease to remain on the floor - wipe it up before someone slips on it. DON’T use loose fitting wrenches or other tools which may slip and cause injury. DON’T push on wrenches when loosening or tightening nuts or bolts. Always try to pull the wrench toward you. If the situation calls for pushing the wrench away, push with an open hand to avoid scraped knuckles if the wrench should slip. DON’T attempt to lift a heavy component alone - get someone to help

you. DON’T rush or take unsafe shortcuts to finish a job. DON’T allow children or animals in or around the vehicle while you are working on it. DO wear eye protection when using power tools such as a drill, sander, bench grinder, etc. and when working under a vehicle. DO keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving parts.

DO make sure that any hoist used has a safe working load rating adequate for the job. DO get someone to check on you periodically when working alone on a vehicle. DO carry out work in a logical sequence and make sure that everything is correctly assembled and tightened. DO keep chemicals and fluids tightly capped and out of the reach of children and pets.

Fire Remember at all times that gasoline is highly flammable. Never smoke or have any kind of open flame around when working on a vehicle. But the risk does not end there. A spark caused by an electrical short circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, or even by static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite gasoline vapors, which in a confined space are highly explosive. Do not, under any circumstances, use gasoline for-cleaning parts. Use an approved safety solvent. Always disconnect the battery ground (-) cable at the battery before working on any part of the fuel system or electrical system. Never risk spilling fuel on a hot engine or exhaust component.I|t is strongly recommended that a fire extinguisher suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires be kept handy in the garage or workshop at all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with water.

Fumes Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconsciousness and even death if inhaled to any extent. Gasoline vapor falls into this category, as do the vapors from some cleaning solvents. Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated area. When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions on the container carefully. Never use materials from unmarked containers. Never run the engine in an enclosed space, such as a garage. Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide, which is extremely poisonous. If you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air, or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the work area. If you are fortunate enough to have the use of an inspection pit, never drain or pour gasoline and never run the engine while the vehicle is over the pit. The fumes, being heavier than air, will concentrate in

the pit with possibly lethal results.

The battery Never create a spark or allow a bare light bulb near a battery. They normally give off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive. Always disconnect the battery ground (-) cable at the battery before working on the fuel or electrical systems. lf possible, loosen the filler caps or cover when charging the battery from an external source (this does not apply to sealed or maintenance-free batteries). Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery may burst. Take care when adding water to a non maintenance-free battery and when carrying a battery. The electrolyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be allowed to contact clothing or skin. Always wear eye protection when cleaning the battery to prevent the caustic deposits from entering your eyes.

Household current When using an electric power tool, inspection light, etc., which operates on household current, always make sure that the tool is correctly connected to its plug and that, where necessary, it is properly

DO remember that your vehicle’s safety affects that of yourself and others. If in doubt on any point, get professional advice.

grounded. Do not use such items in damp conditions and, again, do not create a spark or apply excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel vapor.

Asbestos

Secondary ignition system voltage

Certain friction, insulating, sealing, and other products - such as brake linings, brake bands, clutch linings, torque converters, gaskets, etc. - contain asbestos. Extreme care must be taken to avoid inhalation of dust from such products, since it is hazardous to health. If in doubt, assume that they do contain asbestos.

A severe electric shock can result from touching certain parts of the ignition system (such as the spark plug wires) when the engine is running or being cranked, particularly if components are damp or the insulation is defective. In the case of an electronic ignition system, the secondary system voltage is much higher and could prove fatal.

Conversion

factors

Length (distance) Inches (in)

X

25.4

Feet (ft) Miles

X X

0.305 1.609

=Millimetres

X

0.0394

= Metres (m) = Kilometres (km)

(mm)

X X

3.281 0.621

= Inches (in)

=Miles

X 16.387 = Cubic centimetres (cc; cm’) X 0.568 = Litres (I) X 1.137 = Litres (I) X 1.201 =US quarts (US gt)

x x x X

0.061 1.76 0.88 0.833.

= Cubic inches (cu in; in’) =Imperial pints (Imp pt) = Imperial quarts (Imp qt) =Imperial quarts (Imp qt)

=Feet (ft)

Volume (capacity) Cubic inches (cu in; in*) Imperial pints (Imp pt) Imperia! quarts (Imp qt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt)

US quarts (US qt)

X

0.946

= Litres (I)

X

1.057.

=US quarts (US qt)

Imperial gallons (Imp gal) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) US gallons (US gal)

X X xX

4.546 1.201 3.785

= Litres (I) =US gallons (US gal) = Litres (I)

x X X

0.22 0.833 0.264

= Imperial gallons (Imp gal) =Imperial gallons (Imp gal) =US gallons (US gal)

Ounces (oz)

X

28.35

= Grams (g)

X

0.035

= Ounces (oz)

Pounds (Ib)

X

0.454

= Kilograms (kg)

X

2.205

= Pounds (Ib)

xX X X

0.278 4.448 0.1

=Newtons (N) =Newtons (N) =Kilograms-force (kgf; kg)

x X x

3.6 0.225 9.81

= Ounces-force (ozf; 0z) = Pounds-force (Ibf; Ib) = Newtons (N)

X

0.070

= Kilograms-force per square

X

14.223

= -Pounds-force per square inch

xX

14.696

= Pounds-force

Mass (weight)

;

Force Ounces-force (ozf; oz) Pounds-force (Ibf; Ib) Newtons (N)

Pressure Pounds-force

per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?) Pounds-force

centimetre (kgf/cm?; kg/cm?)

per square inch

X

0.068

=Atmospheres

(atm)

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?) Pounds-force

per square inch

X

0.069

= Bars

Xx

14.5

= Pounds-force

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?) Pounds-force

per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?) per square

inch

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)

per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in”) Kilopascals (kPa)

X

6.895

= Kilopascals (kPa)

xX

0.145

X

0.01

=Kilograms-force per square

x

98.1

X

1.152

X

0.868

xX

0.113

= Kilograms-force centimetre (kgf cm; kg cm) =Newton metres (Nm)

x

8.85

X

0.083

= Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft)

x

17

centimetre (kgf/cm?; kg/cm?)

= Pounds-force per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in?; |b/in?)

= Kilopascals (kPa)

Torque (moment of force) Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; Ib in) Pounds-force inches

= Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; Ib in) = Pounds-force inches

(Ibf in; Ib in)

(Ibf in; Ib in)

Pounds-force inches

= Pounds-force

(Ibf in; Ib in)

inches

(Ibf in; Ib in)

Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft)

xX

0.138

= Kilograms-force metres

X

7.233

= Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft)

X X

0.738 9.804

= Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft) =Newton metres (Nm)

X

0.0013

(kgf m; kg m) Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft) Newton metres (Nm)

X X

1.356 0.102

=Newton metres (Nm) = Kilograms-force metres

(kgf m; kg m)

Power Horsepower (hp)

X

745.7

=Watts

(W)

=Horsepower (hp)

X

1.609

= Kilometres per hour (km/hr; kph) X

0.621.

= Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

Miles per gallon, Imperial (mpg)

X

0.354

= Kilometres per litre (km/I)

X

2.825

=Miles per gallon, Imperial (mpg)

Miles per gallon, US (mpg)

X

0.425

= Kilometres per litre (km/I)

X

2.352

=Miles per gallon, US (mpg)

Velocity (speed) Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

Fuel consumption*

Temperature Degrees Fahrenheit

=

(°C x 1.8) + 32

Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; °C)

*/t is common practice to convert from miles per gallon (mpg) to litres/100 kilometres (1/100km),

where mpg (Imperial) x I/100 km = 282 and mpg (US) x 1/100 km = 235

= (°F - 32) x 0.56

Troubleshooting Contents

Symptom

Section

Symptom

Engine EMGIMOMDACKTINGS

Section

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13

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36

Engine diesels (continues to run) after switching Off ..........see

15

NOISY ili pet OAS

onan aera

Sa

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4

Noisy in Neutral with engine running ..........s::scssessessesseseesteseeseeseeseens

32

Engine hard to start When NOt.......eeeseeeeeneeeereeeeteteteeetees

5

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34

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Me 8:

cz scczsea see astercash cavarndvats sees soos

NE G7 Ni

nas

5.3.

Place the pushrods in a box that will hold them in order

rocker arms are removed from the shaft, be sure to note how they are positioned. 3 Remove the pushrods and store them in order to make sure they don’t get mixed up during installation (see illustration).

Inspection 4 _ Inspect each rocker arm for wear, cracks and other damage, especially where the pushrods and valve stems make contact. 5 Check each rocker arm pivot area and shaft for wear, cracks and galling. If the rocker arms or shafts are worn or damaged, replace them with new ones. 6 Make sure the hole at the pushrod end of each rocker arm is

open. 7 Inspect the pushrods for cracks and excessive wear at the ends. Roll each pushrod across a piece of plate glass to see if it’s bent (if it wobbles, it’s bent).

Installation 8 Lubricate the lower end of each pushrod with clean engine oil or moly-base grease and install them in their original locations. Make sure each pushrod seats completely in the lifter socket. 9 Apply moly-base grease to the ends of the valve stems and the upper ends of the pushrods. 10 Apply moly-base grease to the rocker arm shaft. Install the rocker arms on the shaft and lower the assembly onto the cylinder head. Tighten the bolts, a little at a time (working from the center out), to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. As the bolts are tightened, make sure the pushrods engage properly in the rocker arms. Caution: Allow the engine to set for 20 minutes before starting. 11 Install the valve cover(s).

6

Valve springs, retainers and seals - replacement

This procedure is essentially the same as the one for the four-cylinder engines. Refer to Chapter 2 Part A, Section 11 and follow the procedure outlined there.

If

Intake manifold — removal and installation

Removal Refer to illustrations 7.6, 7.8a, 7.8b, 7.11a, 7.11b and 7.12

it

Relieve the fuel system pressure (See Chapter 4).

2 Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. 3 Remove the air intake plenum, fuel rail and injectors (see Chapter 4). When disconnecting fuel line fittings, be prepared to catch some fuel with a rag, then cap the fittings to prevent contamination.

Ke

5

oe

° NL

ies

ip

»

N EGR TUBE BOLTS (2) 7.6

Remove the cylinder head-to-intake manifold strut

4 Remove the serpentine drivebelt and drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1). 5 Remove the alternator and loosen the bracket (see Chapter 5). 6 Remove the cylinder head-to-intake manifold strut (see illustration). 7 | Remove the upper radiator hose (See Chapter 3). 8 Disconnect the heater circulation tube (see illustration) and any other coolant hoses attached to the intake manifold (see illustration). 9 Label and disconnect any remaining vacuum lines and wires from the manifold. 10 Remove the coolant temperature sensor with a deep socket in order to gain access to one of the upper intake manifold bolts (see Chapter 4). 11. Remove the intake manifold mounting bolts and separate the manifold from the engine (see illustration). If the manifold is stuck, carefully pry on a casting protrusion — don’t pry between the manifold and heads, as damage to the gasket sealing surfaces may result (see illustration). If you’re installing a new manifold, transfer all fittings and sensors to the new manifold. 12 Remove the intake manifold gasket retaining bolts (see illustration) and clamps and lift the gasket from the engine.

Installation Refer to illustration 7.15

Note: The mating surfaces of the cylinder heads, block and manifold must be perfectly clean when the manifold is installed. Gasket removal solvents in aerosol cans are available at most auto parts stores and may be helpful when removing old gasket material that’s stuck to the heads and manifold (since the manifold is made of aluminum, aggressive scraping can cause damage). Be sure to follow the directions printed on the container. 13 Lift the old gasket off. Use a gasket scraper to remove all traces of sealant and old gasket material, then clean the mating surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone. If there’s old sealant or oil on the mating surfaces when the manifold is installed, oil or vacuum leaks may develop. Use a vacuum cleaner to remove any gasket material that falls into the intake ports or the lifter valley. 14 Use a tap of the correct size to chase the threads in the bolt holes, if necessary, then use compressed air (if available) to remove the debris from the holes. Warning: Wear safety glasses or a face shield to protect your eyes when using compressed air! 15 Apply a 3/16-inch (5 mm) bead of RTV sealant or equivalent to the front and rear ridges of the engine block between the heads (see illustration). 16 Install the intake manifold gasket. 17 Carefully lower the manifold into place and install the mounting bolts/nuts finger tight.

Chapter 2 PartD

7.8a

7.11a

Unscrew the heater circulation tube from the intake manifold

Remove the intake manifold bolts using a circular pattern starting with the outer bolts first

3.3L V6 engine

7.8b

7.11b

2D-5

Disconnect the coolant bypass hose from the intake manifold near the thermostat housing

Pry on the intake manifold only in the areas where the gasket mating surface will not get damaged

ie 7.12

Remove the intake manifold retaining bolts (arrows)

*

:

Bi.

oe

7.15 Apply RTV sealant to the corners of the cylinder head/block and let the sealant “set-up” (slightly harden) before installing the manifold

2D-6

Chapter 2 PartD

3.3L V6 engine

CROSSOVER PIPE

DPS CROSSOVER 8.4a

8.5

BOLTS (4). \

Remove the bolts from the crossover pipe

Remove the four bolts (arrows) to separate the heat shield from the exhaust manifold

18 Tighten the mounting bolts/nuts in three steps, working from the center out, in a criss-cross pattern, until they’re all at the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 19 Install the remaining components in the reverse order of removal. 20 Change the oil and filter and refill the cooling system (see Chapter 1). Start the engine and check for leaks.

8

Exhaust manifold(s) - removal and installation

Front manifold Refer to illustrations 8.4a, 8.4b, 8.5 and 8.6 1 Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. 2 Remove the air cleaner assembly (see Chapter 4). 3. Allow the engine to cool completely, then drain the coolant (see Chapter 1) and disconnect the coolant bypass tube, if necessary. 4 Unbolt the exhaust crossover pipe (see illustration) where it joins the front manifold. Note: The lower bolt must be accessed from under the engine compartment (see illustration). 5 Remove the exhaust manifold heat shield mounting bolts (see illustration) and lift the heat shield from the engine. 6 Remove the mounting bolts and detach the manifold from the cylinder head (see illustration). Be sure to spray penetrating lubricant onto the bolts and threads before attempting to remove them. 7 Clean the mating surfaces to remove all traces of old gasket material, then inspect the manifold for distortion and cracks. Warpage can be checked with a precision straightedge held against the mating flange. If a feeler gauge thicker than 0.030-inch can be inserted

8.4b The lower bolt and nut for the crossover pipe can be reached from under the engine compartment with an extension and swivel socket

8.6

Remove the exhaust manifold bolts (arrows)

between the straightedge and flange surface, take the manifold to an automotive machine shop for resurfacing. 8 Place the exhaust manifold in position with a new gasket and install the mounting bolts finger tight. Note: Be sure to identify the exhaust manifold gaskets by the correct cylinder designation and the position of the exhaust ports on the gasket. 9 Starting in the middle and working out toward the ends, tighten the mounting bolts a little at a time until all of them are at the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. 10 Install the remaining components in the reverse order of removal. 11. Start the engine and check for exhaust leaks between the manifold and cylinder head and between the manifold and exhaust pipe.

Rear manifold Refer to illustrations 8.13 and 8.14 12 Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. 13 Allow the engine to cool completely, then disconnect the EGR tube from the exhaust manifold (see illustration). 14 Remove the heat shield (see illustration). 15 Unbolt the crossover pipe (or front manifold extension pipe) where it joins the rear manifold (see illustration 8.4a). 16 Disconnect the oxygen sensor wire. If you intend to replace the manifold, transfer the sensor to the replacement manifold. 17 Set the parking brake, block the rear wheels and raise the front of the vehicle, supporting it securely on jackstands. 18 Working under the vehicle, remove the two exhaust pipe-to-manifold bolts. You may have to apply penetrating oil to the fastener threads — they’re usually corroded. 19 Unbolt and remove the exhaust manifold. 20 Clean the mating surfaces of the cylinder head and manifold,

Chapter 2 PartD

3.3L V6 engine

2D-7

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8.14

Remove the mounting bolts from the heat shield attached to the rear manifold

_

9.8

Remove the cylinder head bolts (arrows) in the reverse of the sequence shown (this is the TIGHTENING sequence)

then check for warpage and cracks. Warpage can be checked with a precision straightedge held against the mating flange. If a feeler gauge thicker than 0.030-inch can be inserted between the straightedge and flange surface, take the manifold to an automotive machine shop for resurfacing. 21 Place the exhaust manifold in position with a new gasket and install the bolts finger tight. 22 Starting in the middle and working out toward the ends, tighten the mounting bolts a little at a time until all of them are at the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 23 Install the remaining components in the reverse order of removal. 24 Start the engine and check for exhaust leaks between the manifold and cylinder head and between the manifold and exhaust pipe.

9

Cylinder head(s) — removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 9.8, 9.9, 9.12, 9.15 and 9.17

Caution: Allow the engine to cool completely before loosening the cylinder head bolts.

Removal 1 Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. 2 Remove the intake manifold as described in Section 7. 3. Disconnect all wires and vacuum hoses from the cylinder head(s). Be sure to labei them to simplify reinstallation.

9.9 Donot pry on the cylinder head near the gasket mating surface - use the corners under the casting protrusions 4 Disconnect the ignition wires and remove the spark plugs (see Chapter 1). Be sure the plug wires are labelled to simplify reinstallation. 5 Detach the exhaust manifold from the cylinder head being removed (see Section 8). 6 Remove the valve cover(s) (see Section 4). 7 Remove the rocker arms and pushrods (see Section 5). 8 Using the new head gasket, outline the cylinders and bolt pattern on a piece of cardboard (see Chapter 2A). Be sure to indicate the front (timing chain end) of the engine for reference. Punch holes at the bolt locations. Loosen each of the cylinder head mounting bolts 1/4-turn at a time (see illustration) until they can be removed by hand - work from bolt-to-bolt in a pattern that’s the reverse of the tightening sequence. Store the bolts in the cardboard holder as they’re removed — this will ensure they are reinstalled in their original locations, which is absolutely essential. 9 Lift the head(s) off the engine. If resistance is felt, don’t pry between the head and block as damage to the mating surfaces will result. Recheck for head bolts that may have been overlooked, then use a hammer and block of wood to tap up on the head and break the gasket seal (see illustration). Be careful because there are locating dowels in the block which position each head. As a last resort, pry each head up at the rear corner only and be careful not to damage anything. After removal, place the head on blocks of wood to prevent damage to the gasket surfaces. 10 Refer to Chapter 2, Part E, for cylinder head disassembly, inspection and valve service procedures.

Chapter 2 PartD

2D-8

9.12

3.3L V6 engine

9.15

Use a putty knife or gasket scraper to remove the gasket

from the cylinder head

Be sure the stamped designations are facing up and forward

THREADS ARE NOT STRAIGHT ON LINE

STRETCHED BOLT

THREADS ARE STRAIGHT ON LINE

UNSTRETCHED 9.17

BOLT

To check a cylinder head bolt for stretching, lay it against a

straightedge - if any threads don’t contact the straightedge, replace the bolt

10.6

Installation 11. The mating surfaces of each cylinder head and block must be perfectly clean when the head is installed. 12 Use a gasket scraper to remove all traces of carbon and old gasket material (see illustration), then clean the mating surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone. If there’s oil on the mating surfaces when the head is installed, the gasket may not seal correctly and leaks may develop. When working on the block, it’s a good idea to cover the lifter valley with shop rags to keep debris out of the engine. Use a shop rag or vacuum cleaner to remove any debris that falls into the cylinders. 13. Check the block and head mating surfaces for nicks, deep scratches and other damage. If damage is slight, it can be removed with a file; if it’s excessive, machining may be the only alternative. 14 Use a tap of the correct size to chase the threads in the head bolt holes. Dirt, corrosion, sealant and damaged threads will affect torque readings. 15 Position the new gasket over the dowel pins in the block. Some gaskets are marked TOP or FRONT to ensure correct installation (see illustration). 16 Carefully position the head on the block without disturbing the gasket. 17. Check the threads of the cylinder head bolts for stretching (see illustration). Replace any bolts that have stretched. 18 Tighten the bolts (numbers 1 through 8) to 45 ft-lbs in the recommended sequence (see illustration 9.8). Next, tighten the bolts to 65 ft-lbs following the same recommended sequence. Tighten the same bolts to the same torque again as a double check. Tighten each bolt (except for number 9) an additional 90-degrees (1/4-turn) following the same sequence. Do not use a torque wrench for this step. Note: After all the head bolts (numbers 71 through 8) have been torqued, tighten head bolt number 9 to 25 ft-lbs. 19 The remaining installation steps are the reverse of removal. 20 Change the oil and filter (see Chapter 1).

10

Remove the bolts (arrows) that attach the lifter retaining plate

Hydraulic roller lifters — removal, inspection and installation

Refer to illustrations 10.6, 10.7, 10.8, 10.9 and 10.11 1 Anoisy valve lifter can be isolated when the engine is idling. Hold a mechanic’s stethoscope or a length of hose near the location of each valve while listening at the other end. Another method is to remove the valve cover and, with the engine idling, touch each of the valve spring retainers, one at a time. If a valve lifter is defective, it’ll be evident from the shock felt at the retainer each time the valve seats. 2 The most likely causes of noisy valve lifters are dirt trapped inside the lifter and lack of oil flow, viscosity or pressure. Before condemning the lifters, check the oil for fuel contamination, correct level, cleanliness and correct viscosity.

Removal 3 Remove the intake manifold and valve cover(s) as described in Sections 7 and 4. 4 Remove the rocker arms and pushrods (see Section 5). 5 Remove the cylinder heads from the engine block (see Section 9). 6 Remove the retaining plate bolts (see illustration) and lift the plate to gain access to the hydraulic roller lifters. 7 Each pair of lifters is retained with an alignment yoke. Lift the yoke from the lifters (see illustration). 8 There are several ways to extract the lifters from the bores. A special tool designed to grip and remove lifters is manufactured by many tool companies and is widely available, but it may not be required in every case. On newer engines without a lot of varnish buildup, the lifters can often be removed with a small magnet or even with your fingers (see illustration). A machinist’s scribe with a bent

Chapter 2 PartD

10.7

Lift off the alignment yokes

10.8

3.3L V6 engine

On engines with low mileage, the

roller lifters can easily be removed by hand - if the lifters are coated with varnish, a special lifter removal tool may be required

10.11 Check the roller for pitting or excessive looseness and the lifter surfaces for gouges, scoring wear or damage (arrows)

11.7a Use a large screwdriver or prybar wedged into the corner of the bellhousing to lock the driveplate in place

end can be used to pull the lifters out by positioning the point under the retainer ring in the top of each lifter. Caution: Don’t use pliers to remove the lifters unless you intend to replace them with new ones. The pliers may damage the precision machined and hardened lifters, rendering them useless. 9 Store the lifters in a clearly labelled box to ensure they’re reinstalled in their original locations (see illustration).

Inspection 10 Clean the lifters with solvent and dry them thoroughly without mixing them up. 11. Check each lifter wall and pushrod seat for scuffing, score marks and uneven wear. If the lifter walls are damaged or worn inspect the lifter bores in the block (see illustration). 12 Check the roller of each lifter for freedom of movement, excessive looseness, flat spots or pitting. The camshaft must also be inspected if any signs of abnormal wear are indicated. Note: Used roller lifters can be reinstalled with a new camshaft or the original camshaft can be used if new roller lifters are installed, provided the used components are in good condition.

Installation 11. When reinstalling used lifters, make sure they’re replaced in their original bores. Soak new lifters in oil to remove trapped air. Coat all

10.9 Store the lifters in a box so each one will be reinstalled in its original bore

11.76

Remove the vibration damper bolt

(arrow) with a breaker bar and a socket

lifters with moly-base grease or engine assembly lube prior to installation. 12 The remaining installation steps are the reverse of removal. Be sure to tighten the retaining plate bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 13 Run the engine and check for oil leaks.

11.

Crankshaft pulley/vibration damper - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 11.7a, 11.7b and 11.8 1 Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. 2 Loosen the lug nuts on the right front wheel. 3 Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. 4 Remove the wheel. 5 Remove the right front inner fender splash shield (see Chapter 11). 6 Remove the serpentine drivebelt (see Chapter 1). 7 Remove the driveplate cover and position a large screwdriver in the ring gear teeth to keep the crankshaft from turning (see illustration) while an assistant removes the vibration damper-to-crankshaft bolt (see illustration). 8 Pull the damper off the crankshaft with a two-jaw puller (see

Chapter 2 PartD

2D-10

11.8

Remove the vibration damper with a two-jaw puller

3.3L V6 engine

12.2 Bevery careful not to damage the crankshaft surface when removing the

12.3. Use a large deep socket and gently tap the seal into place

front seal illustration).

9 Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to apply clean engine oil or multi-purpose grease to the seal contact surface of the damper hub (if it isn’t lubricated, the seal lip could be damaged and oil leakage would result). 10 Tighten the vibration damper-to-crankshaft bolt to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 11 Reinstall the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal.

Vag

12

Crankshaft front oil seal - replacement

Refer to illustrations 12.2 and 12.3 1 Remove the crankshaft pulley/vibration damper (see Section 11). 2 Note how the seal is installed — the new one must be installed to the same depth and facing the same way. Carefully pry the oil seal out of the cover with a seal puller or a large screwdriver (see illustration). Be very careful not to distort the cover or scratch the crankshaft! Wrap tape around the tip of the screwdriver to avoid damage to the crankshaft. 3. Apply clean engine oil or multi-purpose grease to the outer edge of the new seal, then install it in the cover with the lip (spring side) facing IN. Drive the seal into place (see illustration) with a large socket and a hammer (if a large socket isn’t available, a piece of pipe of the proper diameter will also work). Make sure the seal enters the bore squarely and stop when the front face is at the proper depth. 4 Reinstall the vibration damper.

13

Timing chain cover -— removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 13.8 and 13.13

13.8

13.13

Remove the bolts (arrows) that retain the engine mounting plate to the engine

Remove the timing chain cover bolts from the engine (be

sure to mark the location of each bolt to aid in proper installation)

Removal 1 Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. 2 Remove the serpentine drivebelt (see Chapter 1). 3 Drain the coolant and remove the water pump pulley (see Chapter 3). 4 Raise the vehicle and support it on jackstands. Drain the engine oil (see Chapter 1). 5 Support the transaxle with a floor jack and a block of wood and remove the engine mount closest to the timing chain (right side) of the engine (see Section 19). 6 Remove the oil pan and the oil pump pick-up tube (see Section 15). 7 Remove the right wheel and inner splash shield (see Chapter 11). 8 Unbolt the idler pulley and remove the engine mounting plate

(see illustration). 9 — Unbolt the air conditioning compressor from its bracket and set it off to the side. Use some mechanics wire to tie the assembly to the fender to keep it away from the work area (see Chapter 3). Warning: The refrigerant hoses are under pressure — don’t disconnect them. 10 Remove the drivebelt tensioner from the engine. 11 Remove the cam sensor from the timing chain cover (see Chapter 4). 12 Disconnect the canister purge hose from the fenderwell area. 13 Remove the timing chain cover-to-engine block bolts (see illustration). Note: Draw a diagram showing the locations and sizes of the

Chapter 2 PartD

14.4

14.11

Timing chain details

A

Crankshaft TDC mark

C

B

Camshaft (number 1 TDC) mark

sprocket bolt

Be sure the timing chain reference links align with the marks on the sprockets (arrows)

Camshaft

timing cover bolts to aid in installation. 14 Use a gasket scraper to remove all traces of old gasket material and sealant from the cover and engine block. The cover is made of aluminum, so be careful not to nick or gouge it. Clean the gasket seal-

ing surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone.

Installation 15 Apply a thin film of RTV sealant to both sides of the new gasket, then position the gasket on the engine block. Attach the cover to the block, making sure the flats of the oil pump gear are aligned with the flats on the crankshaft. Install the bolts and tighten them in a crisscross pattern, in three steps, to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 16 The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal. 17 Add oil and coolant (see Chapter 1), start the engine and check for leaks.

14

3.3L V6 engine

Timing chain and sprockets - inspection, removal and installation

Inspection 1 Remove the timing chain cover (see Section 13). 2 The timing chain should be replaced with a new one if the engine has high mileage, the chain has visible damage, or total freeplay midway between the sprockets exceeds one-inch. Failure to replace a worn timing chain may result in erratic engine performance, loss of power and decreased fuel mileage. Loose chains can “jump” timing. In the worst case, chain “jumping” or breakage will result in severe engine damage.

7 Timing chains and sprockets should be replaced in sets. If you intend to install a new timing chain, remove the crankshaft sprocket with a puller and install a new one. Be sure to align the key in the crankshaft with the keyway in the sprocket during installation. 8 Inspect the timing chain dampener (guide) for cracks and wear and replace it if necessary. 9 Clean the timing chain and sprockets with solvent and dry them with compressed air (if available). Warning: Wear eye protection when using compressed air. 10 Inspect the components for wear and damage. Look for teeth that are deformed, chipped, pitted and cracked.

Installation Refer to illustration 14.11 11 Turn the camshaft to position the dowel pin at 6 o’clock, if necessary (see illustration 14.3). Mesh the timing chain with the camshaft sprocket, then engage it with the crankshaft sprocket. The timing marks should be aligned as shown in illustration 14.3. Note: /f the crankshaft has been disturbed, turn it until the arrow stamped on the crankshaft sprocket is exactly at the top. If the camshaft was turned, install the sprocket temporarily and turn the camshaft until the sprocket timing mark is at the bottom, opposite the mark on the crankshaft sprocket. The arrows should point to each other. The timing chain reference links should align with the camshaft and crankshaft timing marks that are in the 3 o’clock position (see illustration). /f you are using factory parts, check this alignment. 12 Install the camshaft sprocket bolt and tighten it to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 13 Lubricate the chain and sprocket with clean engine oil. Install the timing chain cover (See Section 13). 14 The remaining installation steps are the reverse of removal.

Removal Refer to illustration 14.4 3 Remove the timing chain cover (see Section 13). 4 Temporarily install the vibration damper bolt and turn the crankshaft with the bolt to align the timing marks on the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets. The crankshaft arrow should be at the top (12 o’clock position) and the camshaft sprocket arrow should be in the 6 o’clock position (see illustration). 5 Remove the camshaft sprocket bolt. Do not turn the camshaft in the process (if you do, realign the timing marks before the sprocket is removed). 6 _ Use two large screwdrivers to carefully pry the camshaft sprocket off the camshaft dowel pin.

15

Oil pan - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 15.5a and 15.5b 1 Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal. 2 _ Raise the front of the vehicle and place it securely on jackstands. Apply the parking brake and block the rear wheels to keep it from rolling off the stands. Remove the lower splash pan and drain the engine oil (refer to Chapter 1 if necessary). 3 Remove the lower flywheel/driveplate cover. 4 Remove the starter (see Chapter 5). 5 Remove the bolts and nuts, then carefully separate the oil pan

2D

Chapter 2 PartD

3.3L V6 engine

a f

16.2

Remove the oil pump cover bolts (arrows) with a Torx drive socket

from the block (see illustration). Don’t pry between the block and the pan or damage to the sealing surfaces could occur and oil leaks may develop. Instead, tap the pan with a soft-face hammer to break the gasket seal (see illustration). 6 Clean the pan with solvent and remove all old sealant and gasket material from the block and pan mating surfaces. Clean the mating surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone and make sure the bolt holes in the block are clear. Check the oil pan flange for distortion, particularly around the bolt holes. If necessary, place the pan on a block of wood and use a hammer to flatten and restore the gasket surface. 7 Apply a bead of RTV sealant to the bottom surface of the timing chain cover and to the bottom of the rear main oil seal retainer. Install a new gasket on the oil pan flange. 8 Place the oil pan in position on the block and install the nuts/bolts. 9 After the fasteners are installed, tighten them to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. Starting at the center, follow a crisscross pattern and work up to the final torque in three steps. 10 The remaining steps are the reverse of the removal procedure. 11.

Refill the engine with oil (see Chapter 1), run it until normal oper-

ating temperature is reached and check for leaks.

16

Oil pump - removal, check and installation

15.5b

Use a soft faced hammer to loosen the oil pan — be careful not to dent the pan

16.4

Place a straightedge across the oil pump cover and check it for warpage with a feeler gauge

Check Refer to illustrations 16.4, 16.6, 16.7, 16.8 and 16.9 3 Clean all parts thoroughly in solvent and carefully inspect the rotors, pump cover and timing chain cover for nicks, scratches or burrs. Replace the assembly if it is damaged. 4 Use a straightedge and measure the oil pump cover for warpage

with a feeler gauge (see illustration). If it's warped more than the limit listed in this Chapter’s Specifications, the pump should be replaced. 5 Measure the thickness of the outer rotor. If the thickness is less than the value listed in this Chapter’s Specifications, the pump should be replaced. 6 Measure the thickness of the inner rotor (see illustration). If the diameter is less than the value listed in this Chapter’s Specifications, the pump should be replaced. 7 Insert the outer rotor into the timing chain cover/oil pump housing

and measure the clearance between the rotor and housing (see illustration). If the measurement is more than the maximum allowable clearance listed in this Chapter’s Specifications, the pump should be replaced. 8 Install the inner rotor in the oil pump assembly and measure the clearance between the lobes on the inner and outer rotors (see illustration). If the clearance is more than the value listed in this Chapter’s Specifications, the pump should be replaced. Note: /nsta// the inner

Refer to illustration 16.2 1 Remove the oil pan (see Section 15).

rotor with the mark facing up. 9 Position a straightedge across the face of the oil pump assembly. If the clearance between the pump surface and the rotors is greater

2 Remove the timing chain cover (see Section 13). Remove the oil pump cover (plate) from the timing chain cover (see illustration).

than the limit listed in this Chapter’s Specifications, the pump should be replaced.

Chapter 2 PartD

16.6

3.3L V6 engine

Use a micrometer to check the thickness of the inner rotor

16.7

2D-13

Check the outer rotor-to-housing clearance

Installation 10 Install the pump cover and tighten the bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 11 To install the pump, turn the flats in the rotor so they align with the flats on the crankshaft. 12 Install the timing chain cover (see Section 13) and tighten the bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s specifications. 13 The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal.

17.

Flywheel/driveplate - removal and installation

This procedure is essentially the same for all engines. Refer to Part A and follow the procedure outlined there, but use the bolt torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

18 16.8

Check the clearance between the lobes of the inner and

outer rotor (arrow)

Rear main oil seal - replacement a one eee ee

a

ee

This procedure is essentially the same for all engines. Refer to Part A and follow the procedure outlined there.

16.9 Using a straightedge and feeler gauges, check the clearance between the surface of the oil pump and the rotors

19.1a Remove the bolt (arrow) to separate the transmission mount from the chassis (the nut can be accessed through

19.1b Remove the bolt (arrow) to separate the front engine mount from the block — the starter (see Chapter 5) must be

a hole behind the wheel assembly)

removed for access.

2D-14

Chapter 2 PartD

RIGHT ENGINE MOUNT ASSEMBLY TIGHTEN YOKE NUT FIRST TIGHTEN YOKE SCREW SECOND aN

3.3L V6 engine

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Exploded view of the engine mounts

;

19

This procedure is essentially the same for all engines. Refer to Part

Engine mounts - check and replacement

SS ee a a Refer to illustrations 19.1a, 19.1b and 19.1c

A and follow the procedure outlined there, but use the torque values a

ae

listed in this Chapter's Specifications. Use the accompanying illustrations for reference (see illustrations).

Chapter 2 Part E General engine overhaul procedures Contents

Camshaft and bearings (3.3L engine only) — removal ANGHASPECUOM can. creas te catacexnossct ec pashoew seca aauanadh thescat sce cuveusuus cosdeees Camshaft (3.3L engine only) — installation ..........cccecceceeeseeeeseeees Counterbalance shafts (2.5L engine only) — removal, installation:and ChaimitOMSiOming) ..

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SWAY BAR BUSHING RETAINER

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Rear hub/drum assembly — removal and installation

;

11.2 To remove the sway bar, remove the lower bolt from each link arm, loosen the two bolts on each bushing retainer, support the sway bar and remove the retainer bolts

This procedure is covered in Chapter 1 as a part of the Rear wheel

bearing check, repack and adjustment procedure.

Installation 10

Rear spindle - inspection, removal and installation

Removal 1 Remove the rear hub/drum (see Section 9). 2 Clean the axle and inspect the bearing contact surfaces for wear and damage. 3. The spindle should be replaced with a new one if it is bent, damaged or worn. 4 Disconnect the parking brake cable from the brake assembly (see Chapter 9). 5 Disconnect and plug the rear brake line at the wheel cylinder (see Chapter 9). 6 Remove the four backing plate mounting bolts and detach the brake assembly and spindle. The bolts may have Torx-type heads, which require a special tool for removal. Be sure to mark the location of any spindle shims.

7 ~~ Place the shim(s) (if equipped), spindle and brake assembly in position, install the bolts and tighten them to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications, following a criss-cross pattern. 8 Connect the brake line and parking brake cable. 9 Install the hub/drum (see Section 9), bleed the brakes and adjust the parking brake (see Chapter 9).

11.

Rear sway bar (1991 and later models) - removal and installation

Refer to illustration 11.2

Removal 1 Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. 2 Remove the two lower sway bar link arm bolts (see illustration). 3 _ Loosen the four sway bar bushing retainer bolts.

Chapter 10

Suspension and steering systems

Ze 12.3.

12.5

Mark the nut location (arrow),

remove the nut and bolt, then disconnect the proportioning valve link

12.7

Remove the U-bolt nuts (arrows)

Remove the spring shackle nuts (arrows)

HANGER

BUMPER ASSEMBLY

INSERT

BUSHINGS

SHACKLE

ACTUATOR

BRACKET

ASSEMBLY

SPRING HANGER 12.8

SPINDLE

SHOCK ABSORBER

SEAL

Rear spring and axle assembly installation details

4 Hold the sway bar in place, remove the bushing retainer bolts, then lower the sway bar from the vehicle.

12

Installation

Refer to illustrations 12.3, 12.5, 12.7 and 12.8

5 6

Removal

Connect the link arms with the bolts finger tight. Place the sway bar in position on the axle with the slits in the

bushings facing up and install the bolts finger tight. 7 Lower the vehicle weight onto the suspension and tighten the bolts to the torque listed in the Specifications Section at the beginning of this Chapter.

Rear leaf springs and axle - removal and installation

1 Loosen the rear support it securely on 2 Jack up the rear springs, then support

wheel lug nuts, raise the rear of the vehicle and jackstands. Remove the rear wheels. axle slightly, just until the weight is off the rear the axle at this height with jackstands.

Chapter 10

13.3 Turn the center pad over and unplug the horn wires (arrows)

13.4

Suspension and steering systems

After you’ve removed the steering

wheel nut, mark the relationship of the

steering wheel hub to the shaft to ensure proper alignment at reassembly

13.5

Use a bolt-type puller like this one to remove the steering wheel

3 If the springs are being removed, disconnect the brake proportioning valve link from the left side spring (see illustration). If you’re removing the rear axle, disconnect the parking brake cables and brake hoses from the axle (see Chapter 9). 4 Remove the bolts from the lower ends of the shock absorbers. 5 Remove the nuts and detach the U-bolts (see illustration). 6 Lower the rear axle, allowing the springs to hang free. 7 Remove the nuts and detach the spring shackles (see illustration). 8 Remove the front spring hanger bolts and lower the springs from the vehicle (see illustration).

Installation 9 Raise the front ends of the springs into position and install the spring hanger bolts. Tighten the bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. Connect the brake proportioning valve link to the marked position. 10 Raise the rear end of the spring into place and connect the

shackles, with the nuts finger tight. 11 Raise the axle with the jack until it is centered under the center bolt, install the U-bolts, plate and nuts. Tighten the nuts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 12 Connect the lower ends of the shock absorbers and install the bolts finger tight. Connect the brake hoses and cables, if disconnected. Install the wheels. 13 Lower the vehicle weight onto the suspension and tighten the front pivot bolt (if loosened), shock absorber bolts and shackle nuts to the torques listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 14 If the brake hoses were disconnected, bleed the brakes (see Chapter 9).

13

Steering wheel - removal and installation

Warning: 1991 and later models are equipped with an air bag. To avoid possible damage to this system, on these models the following procedure should be left to a dealer service department because of the special tools and techniques required. Refer to illustrations 13.3, 13.4 and 13.5 1 Disconnect the negative cable at the battery. Place the cable out of the way so it cannot accidentally come in contact with the negative terminal of the battery, as this would once again allow power into the electrical system of the vehicle. 2 Disconnect the center pad assembly by unscrewing the two screws at the back of the steering wheel.

14.2a To disconnect the tie-rod end from the steering knuckle, remove the cotter pin and loosen the castellated nut, ...

3

Disconnect the horn wires and remove the center pad assembly

(see illustration).

4 Remove the steering wheel retaining nut and mark the relationship of the steering shaft and hub to simplify installation (see illustration). 5 _Use a bolt-type puller to remove the steering wheel (see illustra-

tion). Caution: Do not hammer on the shaft to remove the steering wheel. 6 To install the wheel, align the mark on the steering wheel hub with the mark made on the shaft during removal and slip the wheel onto the shaft. Install the hub nut (and damper if removed) and tighten it to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 7 Install the center pad assembly. 8 Connect the negative battery cable.

14

Tie-rod ends - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 14.2a, 14.2b, 14.3a and 14.3b

1 Raise the front of the vehicle, support it securely on jackstands, block the rear wheels and set the parking brake. Remove the front wheels. 2 Remove the tie-rod-to-steering knuckle cotter pin, loosen the nut, then disconnect the tie-rod from the steering knuckle with a puller (see illustrations).

Chapter 10 SS

5

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SSS

SSS SS SSS

Suspension and steering systems SS

SS

SS

&

14.2b

. install a puller and separate the tie-rod end from the knuckle; note how the nut is still in place, loosened a few turns - this will prevent the components from separating violently

14.3a Using a back-up wrench on the tie-rod end, loosen the jam nut with another wrench...

ld

i

14.3b ... then paint an alignment mark on the threads of the tie-rod to mark the position of the tie-rod end

Install the clamp(s).

8 MARK BREATHER TUBE LOCATION

Install the tie-rod end. Lower the vehicle. 10 Have the front end alignment checked by a dealer service department or an alignment shop.

Oo

16

Steering gear - removal and installation

Warning: On air bag-equipped models, always disconnect the negative battery cable when working in the vicinity of the instrument panel or steering column to avoid the possibility of accidental deployment of the airbag, which could cause personal injury. BOOT CLAMP (INNER) USE LUBE HERE 15.4

Steering gear boot replacement details

3 _ Loosen the jam nut (see illustration), mark the position of the tierod end on the tie-rod (see illustration), unscrew the tie-rod end and remove it.

4 To install the tie-rod end, thread it onto the rod to the marked position and tighten the jam nut securely. 5 Connect the tie-rod end to the steering knuckle, install the nut and tighten it to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. Install a new cotter pin. 6 _ Have the front end alignment checked by a dealer service department or an alignment shop.

15

Steering gear boots - replacement

Refer to illustration 15.4 1 Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. 2 Remove the tie-rod end (see Section 14). 3 Remove the boot clamp(s). 4 Mark the location of the breather tube on the boot (if the same boot will be reinstalled), use a small screwdriver to lift the boot out of the groove in the steering gear and remove the boot (see illustration).

5 Prior to installation, lubricate the boot groove for the steering tierod with silicone-type grease. 6 Slide the new boot into position on the steering gear until it seats in the groove and install a new inner clamp. Make sure the breather tube fits securely in the boot.

Removal Refer to illustrations 16.3, 16.7 and 16.8 1 Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the vehicle, support it securely on jackstands and remove the front wheels. 2 __ Disconnect the tie-rod ends from the steering knuckles (see Section 14). 3 Support the front crossmember with a jack (see illustration). Disconnect the engine damper strut from the crossmember (if so equipped). 4 Remove the four bolts holding the crossmember to the body. 5 Lower the jack and crossmember far enough to gain access to the U-joint between the steering input shaft and the intermediate shaft of the steering column. 6 Remove the boot that protects the U-joint. Mark the relationship of the U-joint to the intermediate shaft so it can be re-connected the same way. Remove the pinch bolt from the U-joint. Lower the crossmember a little farther to separate the U-joint from the intermediate shaft (the U-joint stays with the steering gear). 7 On power-steering-equipped models, disconnect the lines (see illustration) and drain the fluid into a container. 8 Remove the steering gear mounting bolts (see illustration) and separate it from the crossmember by withdrawing it to the left side of the vehicle.

Installation 9 Position the steering gear on the crossmember, install the steering gear mounting bolts and tighten them securely. 10 Raise the crossmember and steering gear into position with the jack. 11. On power steering equipped models, reconnect the lines. Use new O-rings on the fittings.

Chapter 10 TIE ROD ADJUSTING NUT (2)

10-15

Suspension and steering systems

BOLT AND WASHER ASSEMBLY (2)

BOLT AND WASHER ASSEMBLY (2)

STEERING KNUCKLE (2) TIE ROD END (2)

COTTER

NUT (2)

PIN (2)

MOUNTING BRACKET

BUSHING

STEERING GEAR

16.3 An exploded view of the steering gear assembly and related components

BRACKET

VIEW _IN CIRCLE Z

ted

016.7 On models with power steering, disconnect these two line fittings (arrows) - the lower arrow points at one of the two driver’s side mounting bolts for the steering gear (the other one, not visible in this photo, is right behind it, on the back side of the steering gear assembly)

12 Connect the U-joint to the intermediate shaft, aligning the marks made on disassembly. 13 Install the U-joint pinch bolt. 14 Install the U-joint boot. 15 Install the four crossmember bolts — starting with the right rear bolt, which is the pilot bolt —- and tighten them securely. Connect the engine damper strut (if so equipped). 16 Attach the tie-rod ends to the steering knuckles (see Section 14). 17 Install the front wheels and lower the vehicle. 18 On power steering equipped models, start the engine and bleed the steering system (see Section 18). While the engine is running, check for leaks at the hose connections. 19 Have the front end alignment checked by a dealer service department or an alignment shop.

16.8

17

‘

:

:

The two passenger’s side steering gear mounting bolts (arrows)

Power steering pump — removal and installation

Note: Metric fasteners are used on the power steering pump.

Models with 2.6L engine 1. Open the hocd and place a container under the pump for fluid to drain into. Disconnect and plug the power steering pump hoses at the pump. Plug the pump ports. 2 Loosen the pump pivot and adjustment bolts and detach the drivebelt (see Chapter 1). 3 Remove the bolts from the pump mounting bracket and lift the pump and bracket from the engine compartment 4 Installation is the reverse of removal. Use new O-rings at the hose connections.

10-16

Chapter 10

Suspension and steering systems

METRIC TIRE SIZES P 185 / ” R Ets TIRE TYPE#

aR RIM

ere

P —~ PASSENGER tele RATIO (INCHES) T - TEMPORARY (SECTION HEIGHT) C - COMMERCIAL BECTON WIDTH) SECTION WIDTH es CONSTRUCTION TYPE 195

R -

205 ETC

RADIAL

B- BIAS — BELTED D - DIAGONAL (BIAS)

SECTION WIDTH

SECTION HEIGHT

re 19.1

Metric tire size code

All other models 5 Open the hood and disconnect the two wires from the air conditioner clutch cycling switch (if equipped). 6 Onmodels so equipped, loosen and remove the drivebelt adjusting lock screw from the front of the pump. 7 _ Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. 8 Disconnect the pump return hose and drain the fluid from the pump into a container. 9 While the pump is draining, remove the right side splash shield that protects the drivebelts. 10 Disconnect both hoses from the pump. Cap all open hose ends to prevent contamination. 11. Loosen the two lower pump mounting fasteners — a bolt anda stud nut, disconnect the drivebelt, then remove the fasteners.

12 Toremove the pump, move it rearward to clear the mounting bracket, then remove the bracket. Then rotate the pump clockwise until the pump pulley faces toward the rear of the vehicle and pull the pump up and out. 13 Installation is the reverse of removal. Make sure the tab on the mounting bracket is in the lower left front mounting hole. Be sure to use new O-rings when you attach the hoses to the pump. Don’t tighten the fasteners until you’ve adjusted the belt tension.

All models 14 Adjust the belt to the proper tension (see Chapter |!)and tighten the fasteners. 15 Fill the pump with the specified fluid (see Chapter 1). 16 Start the engine, bleed the air from the system (see Section 18) and check the fluid level.

18

out hitting the stops. This will work the air out of the system. Keep the reservoir full of fluid as this is done. 5 When the air is worked out of the system, return the wheels to the straight-ahead position and leave the vehicle running for several more minutes before shutting it off. 6 Road test the vehicle to make sure the steering system is functioning normally and noise free. 7 Recheck the fluid level to make sure it’s correct (see Chapter 1).

Power steering system - bleeding

1 Following any operation where the power steering fluid lines have been disconnected, the power steering system must be bled to remove all air and obtain proper steering performance. 2 With the front wheels in the straight-ahead position, check the power steering fluid level (see Chapter 1). If it’s low, add fluid. 3 Start the engine and allow it to run at fast idle. Recheck the fluid level and add more, if necessary. 4 Bleed the system by turning the wheels from side-to-side, with-

19

Wheels and tires — general information

Refer to illustration 19.1 All vehicles covered by this manual are equipped with metric-size fiberglass or steel-belted radial tires (see illustration). The installation of different size or other type tires may affect the ride and handling of the vehicle. Don’t mix different types of tires, such as radials and bias belted, on the same vehicle; handling may be seriously affected. Always try to replace tires in pairs on the same axle. However, if only one tire is being replaced, be sure it’s the same size, structure and tread design as the other. Because tire pressure has a substantial effect on handling and wear, the pressure in all tires should be checked at least once a month or before any extended trips (see Chapter 1). Wheels must be replaced if they’re bent, dented, leak air, have elongated bolt holes, are heavily rusted, out of vertical symmetry or if the lug nuts won’t stay tight. Wheel repairs by welding or peening aren't recommended. Tire and wheel balance is important to the overall handling, braking and performance of the vehicle. Unbalanced wheels can adversely affect handling and ride characteristics as well as tire life. Whenever a tire is installed on a wheel, the tire and wheel should be balanced by a shop with the proper equipment.

20

Front end alignment - general information

A front end alignment refers to the adjustments made to the front wheels so they’re in proper angular relationship to the suspension and the ground. Front wheels that are out of proper alignment not only affect steering control, but also increase tire wear. The front end adjustments normally required are camber and toe-in. Getting the proper front wheel alignment is a very exacting process in which complicated and expensive machines are necessary to perform the job properly. Because of this, you should have a technician with the proper equipment perform these tasks. We will, however, use this space to give you a basic idea of what’s involved with front end alignment so you can better understand the process and deal intelligently with the shop that does the work. Toe-in is the turning in of the front wheels. The purpose of a toe specification is to ensure parallel rolling of the front wheels. In a vehicle with zero toe-in, the distance between the front edges of the wheels will be the same as the distance between the rear edges of the wheels. The actual amount of toe-in is normally only a fraction of an inch. Toe-in adjustment is controlled by the positions of the tie-rod ends on the tie-rods. Incorrect toe-in will cause the tires to wear improperly by making them scrub against the road surface. Camber is the tilting of the front wheels from vertical when viewed from the front of the vehicle. When the wheels tilt out at the top, the

camber is said to be positive (+). When the wheels tilt in at the top the camber is negative (-). The amount of tilt is measured in degrees from vertical — this measurement is called the camber angle. This angle affects the amount of tire tread contacting the road and compensates for changes in the suspension geometry when the vehicle is cornering or travelling over an undulating surface. Camber is adjusted with a

cam bolt at each strut-to-steering knuckle joint. Caster is the tilting of the top of the front steering axis from vertical. A tilt toward the rear is positive caster and a tilt toward the front is negative caster. Caster isn’t adjustable on these vehicles.

Chapter 11

Body

Contents BOdViremaliue lal OnCaMaGe srrecsccee cece ts caesecstuscrsasttescssisnstcce-psacte BO Vsromalia— nO teClana Cv.ciseseeieacscacuunnarwetscaasergnacaser ctcessasneceactares BOGE Mal OMAnl CO wars srseceasktsasesees vesceadstceseneeev eressvenscusustecansecsceesss Bumpersi—iremovaliand installatiOniccc.::-c0ccsssessesccceeasne-cecacasvescseanes Console removalianGginStallaviOM ser ccvcc- essen ove ceecee sesso ena coces Dashboard panels — removal and installation ..........ccccccececcceceeeeseeee Door latch, lock cylinder and outside handle — removal and installation ..............ccscccescecessreeeeseereenseees Door trim panel — removal and installation............ cesses TIXCC GOlaSSi— FODlAaCOMON taste. sates descenvisvanessieny seduces caavehsocowedesnace Front door — removal and installation... cece ceessssneeeeeeeseneeeeees Front door window glass — removal and installation 0.0.0.0... Front fender — removal and installation............cccsecsesseeesteeeeeteeeeenes Engine splash shields — removal and installation.............::cceesceee GenieralliMOnmatlon sree nieve tes cstts cosas sndn va veceas ses eee ameapedere ea Hinged glass — removal and installation . .........cccsccecceeseseeeeeeeteneeeees

1

6 6) 2 10 20 24 12 11

8 nf} 17 26 28 1 18

General information

These models feature a “unibody” layout, using a floor pan with front and rear frame side rails which support the body components, front and rear suspension systems and other mechanical components. Certain components are particularly vulnerable to accident damage and can be unbolted and repaired or replaced. Among these parts are the body moldings, bumpers, the hood and trunk lids and all glass. Only general body maintenance practices and body panel repair procedures within the scope of the do-it-yourselfer are included in this Chapter.

2

Body - maintenance

1. The condition of your vehicle’s body is very important, because the resale value depends a great deal on it. It’s much more difficult to repair a neglected or damaged body than it is to repair mechanical components. The hidden areas of the body, such as the wheel wells, the frame and the engine compartment, are equally important, although they don’t require as frequent attention as the rest of the body. 2 Once a year, or every 12,000 miles, it’s a good idea to have the underside of the body steam cleaned. All traces of dirt and oil will be removed and the area can then be inspected carefully for rust, damaged brake lines, frayed electrical wires, damaged cables and other problems. The front suspension components should be greased after completion of this job.

Hinges: and lockS=imaintenanCe os....ct.cessssacndetraesvasesnanvarsosseenee-or Hood —- removal, installation and adjustMent............::eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee Instrument cluster bezel — removal and installation ...........cc eee Interior trim panels — removal and installation ............ceseseeceeeeeeeeeees Liftgate — removal, installation and adjUStMEN............ccsseeeeeeeeeeeeeees Liftgatestruti replacements s. castovse-sscteeucveccscacereovevencchenssosseverencenses Lower dashboard panels — removal and installation.................00008 Mirrors =removalrand imstallation (is .cscnvcesecse-taeerveersysueeeenesaee eee Radiator grille — removal and installation. ..............::ccesssceceeeeeeseneeeee Seats —removaliancultistallation, 2 seccn..-ce-tectyeoter sustese teeta Seatibelticheck eset nrciai ute score voces ouev awe bastnes area etc enee are Sliding door - removal, installation and adjustment ..........ccceceeeee Upholstery and carpets — MAINTENANCE . ........ ee ecseceeseeeseeeeseeseeneeens Minny iithimpmaintenanC Oxi. axis Se. scsestee gives -eecnascan, ue seunaeuueep eat miaeees Window regulator — removal and installation ...........c:eseeeeeeeeeeeeeees

7 9 23 22 WS) 16 21 Zi 25 29 30 14 4 3 i$)

3 At the same time, clean the engine and the engine compartment with a steam cleaner or water-soluble degreaser. 4 The wheel wells should be given close attention, since undercoating can peel away and stones and dirt thrown up by the tires can cause the paint to chip and flake, allowing rust to set in. If rust is found, clean down to the bare metal and apply an anti-rust paint. 5 The body should be washed about once a week. Wet the vehicle thoroughly to soften the dirt, then wash it down with a soft sponge and plenty of clean soapy water. If the surplus dirt is not washed off very

carefully, it can wear down the paint. 6 Spots of tar or asphalt thrown up from the road should be removed with a cloth soaked in solvent. 7 Once every six months, wax the body and chrome trim. lf a chrome cleaner is used to remove rust from any of the vehicle’s plated parts, remember that the cleaner also removes part of the chrome, so use it sparingly.

3

“Vinyl trim - maintenance

Don’t clean vinyl trim with detergents, caustic soap or petroleumbased cleaners. Plain soap and water works just fine, with a soft brush to clean dirt that may be ingrained. Wash the vinyl as frequently as the rest of the vehicle. After cleaning, application of a high-quality rubber and vinyl protectant will help prevent oxidation and cracks. The protectant can also be applied to weatherstripping, vacuum lines and rubber hoses, which often fail as a result of chemical degradation, and to the tires.

11

11-2

Chapter 11

4

Upholstery and carpets - maintenance

1

Every three months remove the carpets or mats and clean the in-

terior of the vehicle (more frequently if necessary). Vacuum the upholstery and carpets to remove loose dirt and dust. 2 Leather upholstery requires special care. Stains should be removed with warm water and a very mild soap solution. Use a clean, damp cloth to remove the soap, then wipe again with a dry cloth. Never use alcohol, gasoline, nail polish remover or thinner to clean leather upholstery. 3. After cleaning, regularly treat leather upholstery with a leather wax. Never use car wax on leather upholstery. 4 In areas where the interior of the vehicle is subject to bright sunlight, cover leather seats with a sheet if the vehicle is to be left out for any length of time.

5

Body repair - minor damage

Repair of scratches 1 If the scratch is superficial and does not penetrate to the metal of the body, repair is very simple. Lightly rub the scratched area with a fine rubbing compound to remove loose paint and built up wax. Rinse the area with clean water. 2 Apply touch-up paint to the scratch, using a small brush. Continue to apply thin layers of paint until the surface of the paint in the scratch is level with the surrounding paint. Allow the new paint at least two weeks to harden, then blend it into the surrounding paint by rubbing with a very fine rubbing compound. Finally, apply a coat of wax to the scratch area. 3 If the scratch has penetrated the paint and exposed the metal of the body, causing the metal to rust, a different repair technique is required. Remove all loose rust from the bottom of the scratch with a pocket knife, then apply rust inhibiting paint to prevent the formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber or nylon applicator, coat the scratched area with glaze-type filler. If required, the filler can be mixed with thinner to provide a very thin paste, which is ideal for filling narrow scratches. Before the glaze filler in the scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth cotton cloth around the tip of a finger. Dip the cloth in thinner and then quickly wipe it along the surface of the scratch. This will ensure that the surface of the filler is slightly hollow. The scratch can now be painted over as described earlier in this section.

Repair of dents See color photo sequence 4 When repairing dents, the first job is to pull the dent out until the affected area is as close as possible to its original shape. There is no point in trying to restore the original shape completely as the metal in

the damaged area will have stretched on impact and cannot be restored to its original contours. It is better to bring the level of the dent up to a point which is about 1/8-inch below the level of the surrounding metal. In cases where the dent is very shallow, it is not worth trying to pull it out at all. 5 If the back side of the dent is accessible, it can be hammered out gently from behind using a soft-face hammer. While doing this, hold a

block of wood firmly against the opposite side of the metal to absorb the hammer blows and prevent the metal from being stretched. 6 If the dent is in a section of the body which has double layers, or some other factor makes it inaccessible from behind, a different tech-

nique is required. Drill several small holes through the metal inside the damaged area, particularly in the deeper sections. Screw long, self

tapping screws into the holes just enough for them to get a good grip in the metal. Now the dent can be pulled out by pulling on the protruding heads of the screws with locking pliers. 7

~The next stage of repair is the removal of paint from the damaged

area and from an inch or so of the surrounding metal. This is easily done with a wire brush or sanding disk in a drill motor, although it can be done just as effectively by hand with sandpaper. To complete the

Body preparation for filling, score the surface of the bare metal with a screwdriver or the tang of a file or drill small holes in the affected area. This will provide a good grip for the filler material. To complete the repair, see the Section on filling and painting.

Repair of rust holes or gashes 8 Remove all paint from the affected area and from an inch or so of the surrounding metal using a sanding disk or wire brush mounted in a drill motor. If these are not available, a few sheets of sandpaper will do the job just as effectively. 9 With the paint removed, you will be able to determine the severity of the corrosion and decide whether to replace the whole panel, if possible, or repair the affected area. New body panels are not as expensive as most people think and it is often quicker to install a new panel than to repair large areas of rust. 10 Remove all trim pieces from the affected area except those which will act as a guide to the original shape of the damaged body, such as headlight shells, etc. Using metal snips or a hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and any other metal that is badly affected by rust. Hammer the edges of the hole inward to create a slight depression for the filler material. 11 Wire brush the affected area to remove the powdery rust from the surface of the metal. If the back of the rusted area is accessible, treat it with rust inhibiting paint. 12 Before filling is done, block the hole in some way. This can be done with sheet metal riveted or screwed into place, or by stuffing the hole with wire mesh. 13. Once the hole is blocked off, the affected area can be filled and painted. See the following subsection on filling and painting.

Filling and painting 14 Many types of body fillers are available, but generally speaking, body repair kits which contain filler paste and a tube of resin hardener are best for this type of repair work. A wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will be necessary for imparting a smooth and contoured finish to the surface of the filler material. Mix up a small amount of filler on a clean piece of wood or cardboard (use the hardener sparingly). Follow the manufacturer’s instructions on the package, otherwise the filler will set incorrectly. 15 Using the applicator, apply the filler paste to the prepared area. Draw the applicator across the surface of the filler to achieve the desired contour and to level the filler surface. As soon as a contour that approximates the original one is achieved, stop working the paste. If you continue, the paste will begin to stick to the applicator. Continue to add thin layers of paste at 20-minute intervals until the level of the filler is just above the surrounding metal. 16 Once the filler has hardened, the excess can be removed with a body file. From then on, progressively finer grades of sandpaper should be used, starting with a 180-grit paper and finishing with 600grit wet-or-dry paper. Always wrap the sandpaper around a flat rubber or wooden block, otherwise the surface of the filler will not be completely flat. During the sanding of the filler surface, the wet-or-dry paper should be periodically rinsed in water. This will ensure that a very smooth finish is produced in the final stage. 17 At this point, the repair area should be surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in turn should be encircled by the finely feathered edge of good paint. Rinse the repair area with clean water until all of the dust produced by the sanding operation is gone. 18 Spray the entire area with a light coat of primer. This will reveal any imperfections in the surface of the filler. Repair the imperfections with fresh filler paste or glaze filler and once more smooth the surface with sandpaper. Repeat this spray-and-repair procedure until you are satisfied that the surface of the filler and the feathered edge of the paint are perfect. Rinse the area with clean water and allow it to dry completely. 19 The repair area is now ready for painting. Spray painting must be carried out in a warm, dry, windless and dust freé atmosphere. These conditions can be created if you have access to a large indoor work area, but if you are forced to work in the open, you will have to pick the day very carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing the floor in the

np

york area with water will help settle the dust which would otherwise e in the air. If the repair area is confined to one body panel, mask off he surrounding panels. This will help minimize the effects of a slight nismatch in paint color. Trim pieces such as chrome strips, door hanles, etc., will also need to be masked off or removed. Use masking ape and several thicknesses of newspaper for the masking opera-

ions. 0 Before spraying, shake the paint can thoroughly, then spray a est area until the spray painting technique is mastered. Cover the reair area with a thick coat of primer. The thickness should be built up ising several thin layers of primer rather than one thick one. Using 00-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper, rub down the surface of the primer unil it is very smooth. While doing this, the work area should be thor-

yughly rinsed with water and the wet-or-dry sandpaper periodically insed as well. Allow the primer to dry before spraying additional Oats. ‘1 Spray on the top coat, again building up the thickness by using everal thin layers of paint. Begin spraying in the center of the repair rea and then, using a circular motion, work out until the whole repair rea and about two inches of the surrounding original paint is covered. ¥emove all masking material 10 to 15 minutes after spraying on the fiial coat of paint. Allow the new paint at least two weeks to harden, hen use a very fine rubbing compound to blend the edges of the new aint into the existing paint. Finally, apply a coat of wax.

)

Body repair - major damage

| Major damage must be repaired by an auto body shop specificaly equipped to perform unibody repairs. These shops have the specialzed equipment required to do the job properly. » If the damage is extensive, the body must be checked for proper lignment or the vehicle’s handiing characteristics may be adversely iffected and other components may wear at an accelerated rate. 3 Due to the fact that all of the major body components (hood, enders, etc.) are separate and replaceable units, any seriously damiged components should be replaced rather than repaired. Someimes the components can be found in a wrecking yard that specialzes in used vehicle components, often at considerable savings over he cost of new parts.

41-3

Body

Chapter 11

of light oil or lock lubricant. The door latch strikers should also be lu-

bricated with a thin coat of grease to reduce wear and ensure free movement. lubricant.

8

Lubricate the door and trunk locks with spray-on graphite

Fixed glass - replacement

Replacement of the windshield and fixed glass requires the use of special fast-setting adhesive/caulk materials and some specialized tools and techniques. These operations should be left to a dealer service department or a shop specializing in glass work.

9

Hood - removal, installation and adjustment

Refer to illustrations 9.2, 9.10, 9.11 and 9.12

Note: The hood is heavy and somewhat awkward to remove and install - at least two people should perform this procedure.

Removal and installation i Use blankets or pads to cover the cowl area of the body and the fenders. This will protect the body and paint as the hood is lifted off. 2 Scribe alignment marks around the bolt alignment during installation (a permanent-type work for this) (see illustration). 3 Disconnect any cables or wire harnesses removal. 4 Have an assistant support the weight of

heads to insure proper felt-tip marker also will

which will interfere with the hood. Remove the

hinge-to-hood nuts or bolts. 5 Lift off the hood. 6 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Adjustment 7 Fore-and-aft and side-to-side adjustment of the hood is done by moving the hood in relation to the hinge plate after loosening the bolts or nuts.

8 Scribe or trace a line around the entire hinge plate so you can judge the amount of movement. 9 Loosen the bolts or nuts and move the hood into correct alignment. Move it only a little at a time. Tighten the hinge bolts or nuts and

carefully lower the hood to check the alignment. (

Hinges and locks - maintenance

Once every 3000 miles, or every three months, the hinges and latch assemblies on the doors, hood and trunk should be given a few drops

10 Adjust the hood bumpers on the radiator support so the hood is flush with the fenders when closed (see illustration). 11. The safety catch assembly on the hood itself can also be adjusted fore-and-aft after loosening the boits (see illustration).

Se

9.2

Use a marking pen to outline the hinge plate and bolt heads

9.10

Adjust the hood vertically by screwing the hood bumpers in or out

9.11 Loosen the bolts (arrows) to adjust the safety catch assembly, then adjust it fore or aft (arrow)

These photos illustrate a method of repairing simple dents. They are intended to supplement Body repair - minor damage in this Chapter and should not be used as the sole instructions for body repair on these vehicles.

1

If you can’t access the backside of the body panel to hammer

2

...then screw the slide-hammer into the hole and operate it

out the dent, pull it out with a slide-hammer-type dent puller. In

Tap with a hammer near the edge of the dent to help ‘pop’ the

the deepest portion of the dent or along the crease line, drill or punch hole(s) at least one inch apart...

metal back to its original shape. When you’re finished, the dent area should be close to its original contour and about 1/8-inch below the surface of the surrounding metal

3

Using coarse-grit sandpaper, remove the paint down to the

4

When the paint is removed, touch will probably be more

bare metal. Hand sanding works fine, but the disc sander shown here makes the job faster. Use finer (about 320-grit) sandpaper to

helpful than sight for telling if the metal is straight. Hammer down the high spots or raise the low spots as necessary.

feather-edge the paint at least one inch around the dent area

Clean the repair area with wax/silicone remover

5 Following label instructions, mix up a batch of plastic filler and hardener. The ratio of filler to hardener is critical, and, if you mix it incorrectly, it will either not cure properly or cure too quickly (you won’t have time to file and sand it into shape)

6 Working quickly so the filler doesn’t harden, use a plastic applicator to press the body filler firmly into the metal, assuring bonds completely. Work the filler until it matches the original contour and is slightly above the surrounding metal

7 Let the filler harden until you can just dent it with your ingernail. Use a body file or Surform tool (shown here) to roughshape the filler

8 Use coarse-grit sandpaper and a sanding board or block to work the filler down until it’s smooth and even. Work down to finer grits of sandpaper - always using a board or block - ending up with 360 or 400 grit

Sos 9 You shouldn’t be able to feel any ridge he filler to the bare metal or from the bare As soon as the repair is flat and uniform, mask off the adjacent panels or

at the transition from metal to the old paint. remove the dust and trim pieces

‘

” i

ee

10 Apply several layers of primer to the area. Don’t spray the primer on too heavy, so it sags or runs, and make sure each coat is dry before you spray on the next one. A professional-type spray gun is being used here, but aerosol spray primer is available inexpensively from auto parts stores

11 fa

11. The primer will help reveal imperfections or scratches. Fill these with glazing compound. Follow the label instructions and sand it with 360 or 400-grit sandpaper until it’s smooth. Repeat the glazing, sanding and respraying until the primer reveals a perfectly smooth surface

12. Finish sand the primer with very fine sandpaper (400 or 600grit) to remove the primer overspray. Clean the area with water and allow it to dry. Use a tack rag to remove any dust, then apply the finish coat. Don’t attempt to rub out or wax the repair area until the paint has dried completely (at least two weeks)

11-6 12

Body

Chapter 11

eS

SS

A

SE

SSS

SS

The hood latch assembly on the body can also be adjusted side-

to-side after loosening the bolts (see illustration). 13 The hood latch assembly, as well as the hinges, should be periodically lubricated with white lithium-base grease to prevent sticking and_-wear.

10

Bumpers - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 10.1, 10.5a and 10.5b

Warning: On air bag-equipped models, always disconnect the negative battery cable when working in the vicinity of the impact sensors (behind the front bumper) to avoid the possibility of accidental deployment of the airbag, which could cause personal injury.

ae

9.12

1 Remove the end cap-to-bumper bolts and the two end cap-tofender bolts (see illustration).

2 Remove the end cap-to-bumper nut and separate the end cap from the bumper. Repeat this procedure for the other side. 3. Disconnect any wiring or other components that would interfere with bumper removal. 4 Support the bumper with a block of wood and a jack or jackstand or have an assistant support the bumper as the bolts are removed. 5 Remove the mounting bolts and detach the bumper (see illustrations). 6 Installation is the reverse of removal. 7 Tighten the mounting bolts securely. 8 Install the rub strip and any other components that were re-

a aaa Lg

11.

Loosen the bolts (arrows) to adjust the hood latch assembly

Door trim panel - removal and installation

Front door Refer to illustrations 11.2a, 11.2b, 11.2c, 11.2d and 11.4

1 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 2 Remove all door trim panel retaining screws and door pull/armrest assemblies (see illustrations). 3. Onmanual window models, remove the window crank. On power window models, remove the screw, pry out the control switch assembly and unplug it. 4 Insert a putty knife between the trim panel and the door (see illustration) and disengage the retaining clips. Work around the outer

FRONT BUMPER

10.1.

Front bumper components - ex-

ploded view (rear bumper similar) RUB STRIP

FRONT BUMPER END CAP

10.5a

Remove the front bumper support bolts

10.56

Remove the nuts (arrows) from the rear bumper mounts

Chapter 11

11.2c

isa?

Body

Remove the mounting screw from the upper section of the armrest

11.2b

The other armrest mounting screw is tucked inside the formed indentation (pocket)

Use a flat bladed screwdriver and pry the cover off the power window switch

11.2d

Use a flat bladed screwdriver to remove the inside door handle cover

edge until the panel is free. 5 Once all of the clips are disengaged, detach the trim panel, unplug any wire harness connectors and remove the trim panel from the vehicle. 6 For access to the inner door, carefully peel back the plastic watershield. 7 Prior to installation of the door panel, be sure to reinstall any clips in the panel which may have come out during the removal procedure and remain in the door itself. 8 Plug in the wire harness connectors and place the panel in posi-

tion in the door. Press the trim panel into place until the clips are seated. 9 Install the armrest/door pulls and the window switch or crank.

Sliding door Refer to illustration 11.11 10 Close the door and remove the latch remote control trim pan-

el/bezel. 11. Remove the plugs and the screws on the upper arm trim cover (see illustration) and remove the cover.

= ;

j

UPPER ARM TRIM COVER

SLIDING DOOR TRIM PANEL

~9 (2 Nem)

TRIM

PANEL

BOLSTER

1

11.4

Use a special upholstery tool or a putty knife and carefully pry the panel off the door

11.11

Sliding door trim panel details

Body

Chapter 11

INSIDE

DOOR END FRAME

POWER DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR

STRIKER 12.2a Remove the mounting screws (arrows) from the inside door latch and carefully pull the assembly out to gain access to the link rods

OUTSIDE HANDLE TO LATCH LINK

12.2b

LOCK CYLINDER

Door latch and rod linkage details on 1991 and later models

TO LATCH LATCH

12.2c

LINK ASSEMBLY ANTI-RATTLE

Door latch and

a

rod linkage details on

CLIP

Tie

INSIDE LATCH

©

earlier models

RELEASE TO LATCH ig ——

LOCK/LATCH REMOTE CONTROL

SPACER

LOCK PILLAR STRIKER ASSEMBLY

ELECTRIC LOCK MOTOR TO LATCH

12 13. move 14

Remove the plastic trim panel bolster fasteners. Remove the frogleg fasteners from the door trim panel and rethe panel. Installation is the reverse of removal.

12

Door latch, lock cylinder and outside handle —- removal and installation

INSIDE LOCK REMOTE CONTROL TO LATCH LINK

Door latch Front door Refer to illustrations 12.2a, 12.2b, 12.2c and 12.3 1 Close the window completely and remove the door trim panel

and watershield (see Section 11).

P

2 Disconnect the link rods from the latch (see illustrations). 3 Remove the three Torx-head mounting screws (see illustration) on the exterior door jamb. It may be necessary to use an impact-type screwdriver to loosen them. 4 Pull the two halves of the latch out of the door. 5 Place the latch in position and install the screws. Tighten the screws securely. 6 Connect the link rods to the latch. 7 Check the door to make sure it closes properly. Readjust the latch (by loosening the screws and moving it) as necessary until the door closes smoothly (with the door handle flush with the door).

12.3.

Remove the Torx drive bolts (arrows) from the outside of the door

Sliding door

Removal and installation Refer to illustrations 12.9 8 The sliding door latch and handle assembly consolidates the door locks, latch and handles in one easy to service unit. 9 Refer to Section 11 and remove the trim panel, then remove the eight latch and handle control assembly-to-door bolts (see illustration).

Chapter 11

11-9

Body ELECTRIC

te oI

eeok

ree

| STABILIZER

STABILIZER SEAL VIEW IN DIRECTION OF ARROW Y SLIDING LOCK DOOR

|

RETAINER CYLINDER

LATCH REMOTE CONTROL DOOR LATCH RELEASE

|

ELECTRIC LOCKING MOTOR

| | OUTSIDE HANDLE

OUTSIDE HANDLE PLATE

| |

| l

STABILIZER ASSEMBLY

PK ANTI RATT CLIP

LE

EY CYLINDER STABILIZER TO ACTUATING ACTUATOR LINK LINK

VIEW IN DIRECTION

OF ARROW

VIEW IN DIRECTION OF ARROW W

UPPER

MOTOR

enerae

X

STABILIZER ASSEMBLY

ROLLER

UPPER ROLLER BRACKET

\

LATCH REMOTE LOCKING CONTROL ASSEMBLY

STABILIZER

ACTUATING \ LINK

SLIDING DOOR

VIEW IN CIRCLE V

REMOTE CONTROL BEZEL

CENTER ROLLER ASSEMBLY

LOWER ROLLER ASSEMBLY

oo.

LOWER ROLLER SUPPORT BRACKET

12.9

10 11. 12

Sliding door latch, lock and handle components - exploded view

Disconnect the linkage and wiring harness. Detach the control assembly. Installation is the reverse of removal.

LOCKING LINK

Latch adjustment Refer to illustrations 12.14, 12.15, 12.16 and 12.17 13 The latch and handle assembly can be adjusted at several points when it fails to operate properly. They include the lock knob, inside handle, outside handle and the front hook. 14 Perform the lock knob adjustment with the door open. Loosen the lower Allen head screw on the control assembly, then lock the latch by pulling the locking link forward and tighten the Allen head screw to 25 in-lbs (see illustration). 15 Adjust the inside handle by loosening the upper Allen head screw on the left side of the assembly. Insert a screwdriver through the square hole in the assembly and pull the latch link up far enough to re-

11

12.14

Sliding door lock knob adjustments

11-10

Chapter 11

Body

ACTUATOR BUTTON

UPPERMOST SCREW

12.16

12.15 Sliding door inside handle adjustments

12.17

Sliding door outside

Sliding door front

hook adjustments

handle adjustments

OUTSIDE

HANDLE

ASSEMBLY

LOCK CYLINDER LATCH ASSEMBLY

U LOCK CYLINDER ee TO LATCH

DOOR

LIFTGATE

y, /

12.22

CaN

LOCK CYLINDER RETAINER No

aN

LINK

PANEL

Door outside handle assembly and lock cylinder components - exploded view

; ein

use a screwdriver to push the key lock cylinder retainer off and withdraw the lock cylinder (see illustration) from the door. 23 Installation is the reverse of removal.

LATCH ASSEMBLY

12.19

Liftgate latch assembly

move all free play. Tighten the screw to 25 in-lbs (see illustration). 16 The outside handle can be adjusted by loosening the lower Allen head screw in the central pivot. Hold the central pivot cam against the outside handle actuator button and tighten the screw to 25 in-lbs (see illustration). 17. The front hook adjustment must be done with the door closed. Loosen the upper Allen head screw in the central pivot. Push the front

hook actuator link forward until it bottoms on the hook and tighten the screw to 25 in-lbs (see illustration).

Liftgate Refer to illustration 12.19 18 Remove the trim panel and the water shield from the inside of the liftgate (see Section 11). 19 Remove the screws that mount the latch assembly to the bottom of the liftgate (see illustration). 20 Remove any cables or link rods attached to the assembly. 21 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Lock cylinder Front door Refer to illustration 12.22 22 Remove the outside door handle (see below). Disconnect the link,

Sliding door 24 Refer to Section 11 and remove the trim panel. 25 Remove the latch and handle assembly (See previous procedure). 26 Remove the two handle retaining nuts from inside the door and detach the outside handle assembly (see illustration 12.9). 27 Remove the screws and detach the lock cylinder from the outside handle assembly. 28 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Liftgate 29 Remove the liftgate latch assembly (see previous procedure). 30 Remove the nut that retains the lock cylinder to the latch assembly. 31 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Outside handle Front door 32 Remove the front door trim panel (see Section 11). 33 Disconnect the outside handle (remote control) link from the latch, remove the mounting nuts and detach the handle from the door (see illustration 12.22). 34 Place tne handle in position, attach the link and install the nuts. Tighten the nuts securely.

Sliding door and liftgate 35 Follow the previous procedures for latch and cylinder lock removal and detach the outside handle from the lock assembly.

Body

Chapter 11

11-11

FRONT DOOR HINGE PILLAR

WELDED HINGE HALF 13.4

14.7b

13

Door hinge details

Be sure to mark the latch bolts with paint before removing them from the sliding door

Front door — removal and installation

Refer to illustration 13.4 1 Remove the door trim panel (see Section 11). Disconnect any wire harness connectors and push them through the door opening so they won’t interfere with door removal. 2 Remove the front fender (see Section 26) to gain access to the hinge bolts. Note: /t is possible to remove the front door without removing the fender by using a sharp punch and tapping the hinge pins from the assembly. 3 Place a jack or jackstand under the door or have an assistant on hand to support it when the hinge bolts are removed. Note: /f a jack or jackstand is used, place a rag between it and the door to protect the door’s painted surfaces. 4 Remove the hinge-to-door bolts or drive out the pins and carefully lift off the door (see illustration). 5 Installation is the reverse of removal. 6 Following installation of the door, check the alignment and adjust it if necessary as follows: a) Up-and-down and forward-and-backward adjustments are made by carefully bending the hinges slightly, using a special tool. b) The door lock striker can also be adjusted both up-and-down and sideways to provide positive engagement with the lock mechanism. This is done by loosening the mounting bolts and moving the striker as necessary.

14.7a

14.7c

14

Sliding door hinge bracket adjustment details

Adjust the door stop to increase or decrease the distance to the panel

Sliding door - removal, installation and adjustment

Removal and installation 1 2

Remove the upper and lower roller covers (see illustration 12.9). Use paint and mark the position of the roller bracket at both the door and the roller arm assembly. 3 Support the door with a block of wood and a floor jack. 4 Remove the bolt from the upper roller bracket to the upper roller. Do the same for the lower roller. 5

Remove the roller bracket from the door.

6

Installation is the reverse of removal.

Adjustment Refer to illustrations 14.7a, 14.7b and 14.7c

7

If the character line location, gap sizes and operation of the

hinges and other door systems is not satisfactory, the door can be adjusted by loosening the roller assembly mounting bolts and reposition-

ing the brackets (see illustrations). 8 The following sequence is recommended to ensure correct adjustment. 9 Adjust the front door-to-pillar and front fender relationship. a) The gap between the right pillar and the right front door must be 1/4-inch. b) The gap between the right fender and right front door must be 1/4-inch. c) The fender and door character lines must match up.

11

11-12

Chapter 11

15.5

16.2

Remove the liftgate-to-hinge bolts, not the hinge-to-body bolts

10 Adjust the sliding door-to-front door and quarter panel relationship. a) The gap between the back of a properly adjusted front door and the front edge of the sliding door must be 5/16-inch at the top and bottom. b) The gap between the right quarter panel and the sliding door must be 1/4-inch at both the top and bottom. c) The character lines of the right fender, right front door, sliding door and quarter panel must match up.

15

Body

Liftgate - removal, installation and adjustment

Refer to illustration 15.5 1 Have an assistant support the liftgate in its fully open position. 2 Disconnect all cables and wire harness connectors that would interfere with removal of the liftgate. 3 Mark or scribe around the hinge flanges. 4 While an assistant supports the liftgate, detach the support struts (see Section 16). 5 Remove the hinge bolts (see illustration) and detach the liftgate from the vehicle. 6 Installation is the reverse of removal. 7 ~~ After installation, close the liftgate and make sure it’s in proper alignment with the surrounding body panels. Adjustments are made by changing the position of the hinge bolts in the slots. To adjust it, loosen the hinge bolts and reposition the hinges either side-to-side or

fore-and-aft the desired amount and retighten the bolts.

Use a Torx socket and remove the upper liftgate mount

8 The engagement of the liftgate can be adjusted by loosening the lock striker bolts, repositioning the striker and retightening the bolts.

16

Liftgate strut replacement

Refer to illustrations 16.2 and 16.3 1 Have an assistant support the liftgate in its fully open position. 2 Use a Torx drive socket and remove the upper mount where it attaches to the liftgate (see illustration). 3 Remove the trim panel mounting screws in the vicinity of the strut (see Section 22) and carefully peal back the panels to gain access to the body strut mount (see illustration). 4 Remove the mounting bolt where the strut attaches to the body (see illustration 16.3). 5 Carefully lower the liftgate back down to a closed position. 6 Installation is the reverse of removal.

17

Front door window glass - removal and installation

Refer to illustration 17.3 1 Remove the door trim panel and watershield (see Section 11). 2 Reinstall the crank and raise (or lower) the glass partially until the window regulator assembly is visible through the access hole (see illustration 12.9).

3

Remove the two nuts that secure the glass to the regulator (see

illustration). 4 Pull the door glass up and out of the door. 5 Installation is the reverse of removal.

STUD AND WASHER

GASKET

FRONT WINDOW REGULATOR ASSEMBLY

16.3

Carefully fold back the interior trim panel to access the other strut mount

17.3

The door glass is attached to the regulator flange with two nuts

Body

Chapter 11

11-13 REGULATOR LIFT

LOWER CHANNEL

GLASS MODULE

10 Nem

(85 IN. LBS.)

REGULATOR

PEGE ITIM Te

f

me WINDOW

bee

(60 IN. LBS.)

18.2

18

%

Interior door glass details

19.5a

Hinged glass - removal and installation

Refer to illustration 18.2 1 Remove the interior trim panels that surround the window that is to be replaced (see Section 22). 2 Remove the glass-to-latch mounting screws (see illustration). 3 Remove the nuts that hold the hinge to the door or the aperture panel. 4 Remove the glass assembly. If you are replacing it with a new window, transfer the latch attaching components to the new glass assembly. 5 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Window regulator - removal and installation

6

_Push-in the fasteners that hold the regulator cables to disengage

them from the inner door panel. 7 Carefully remove the regulator from the door panel. 8 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Console - removal and installation

Center console (1991 and later models only)

Refer to illustrations 19.5a, 19.5b and 19.5c it Remove the door trim panel and the water shield (see Section 11). 2 Remove the bolts that hold the door glass to the window lift plate (see Section 17) and slowly lower the glass and allow it to sit on the bottom of the door.

GLASS ANTIRATTLE BUMPER

The inner door components on 1991 and later models

3 Disconnect the cable from the negative post on the battery. 4 If the vehicle is equipped with a power regulator, disconnect the power regulator electrical connector from the door trim panel. 5 Remove the bolts that hold the regulator to the door inner panel (see illustrations). Note: Some models use rivets to fasten the regulators to the inner door panel. Use an electric drill and a appropriate size drill bit to drill out the regulator mounting rivet heads.

20

19

REGULATOR

Refer to illustrations 20.2 1 Remove the center instrument cluster bezel (see Section 23).

LATCH/LOCK REMOTE CONTROL

~ MOTOR/LATCH

LINK

LINK/MOTOR

CLIP

ELECTRIC LOCKING MOTOR

4 TIGHTENING SEQUENCE, MANUAL REGULATOR

SPACER

MANUAL WINDOW REGULATOR ASSEMBLY HANDLE

19.5b

The inner door components on 1990 and earlier models

19.5c

Install new bolts after the rivets have been drilled out and

torque them to 90 in-Ibs in the sequence shown

11-14

Chapter 11

=}

Body

ra FULL FORWARD CONSOLE

(IF EQUIPPED)

TRIM

Les

UPPER Se

MODULE

—

_

MOUNTING BRACKET =—Open H—Open B to W (In Wash)

B to P; B to H P>—Open A—Open B to W (In Wash)

10.5a Two-speed wiper switch continuity check chart (non-concealed wipers) - continuity should be as specified in the three switch positions (1984 models)

12 13

Remove the hazard flasher button (see illustration). Remove the screw which connects the wiper-washer switch to

the turn signal switch pivot. Don’t remove or disturb the wiper-washer switch assembly. 14 Remove the three switch retaining screws (see illustration), gently pull up on the switch assembly and carefully thread the switch wires up through and out the top of the steering column (see illustra-

Remove the hazard flasher button

B+

to P,;

L to Po H—Open B+ to W (In Wash)

B+

to P,

B+ toL P,—Open H—Open B+ to W (In Wash)

B+

to P;

B+ toH P>—Open L—Open B+ toW (In Wash)

10.55 Two-speed wiper switch continuity check chart (concealed wipers) — continuity should be as specified in the three

switch positions (1985 through 1987 models)

tion). Note: /t may be helpful to wrap electrical tape around the lower end of the wiring harness and the electrical connector, to reduce the possibility of the connector becoming stuck inside the column. 15 Installation is the reverse of removal. Don’t forget to lubricate the steering shaft contact surfaces with multi-purpose grease, and make sure the dimmer switch rod is positioned securely in the pocket of the control stalk.

Chapter 12

12-9

Chassis electrical system

INTERMITTENT WIPE SWITCH CONTINUITY CHART NON-TILT INTERMITTENT WIPE CONTROL MODULE CONNECTOR

MOTOR HARNESS CONNECTOR

VIEW FROM TERMINAL SIDE

SWITCH POSITION

CONTINUITY

BETWEEN

PIN 1-13, PIN 3-10, PIN 4-11, PIN 5-12 PIN 1-13, PIN’3-10, PIN 4-16, PIN 4-11, PIN 4-9, PIN 5-12, PIN 8-15, PIN 9-16, PIN 11-16, PIN 9-11 LOW

PIN 1-13, PIN 3-10, PIN 4-7, PIN 4-11, PIN 5-12, PIN 7-11

PIN 1-13, PIN 3-10, PIN 4-6, PIN 4-11, PIN 5-12, PIN 6-11 10.5c

Intermittent wiper switch continuity check chart - continuity should be as specified in the four switch positions (1990 models)

INTERMITTENT WIPE SWITCH CONTINUITY CHART SWITCH CONTINUITY POSITION BETWEEN

STEERING COLUMN

>ION

OFF

DELAY

LOW HIGH *Resistance at maximum delay position should be between 270,000 ohms and 330,000 ohms. *Resistance at minimum delay position should be zero with ohmmeter set on the high ohm scale. 10.5d Intermittent wiper switch continuity check chart continuity should be as specified in the four switch positions

10.10

(1988 and 1989 models) 10

Wiper/washer switch - check and replacement

Warning: 1991 and later models are equipped with an airbag system. To avoid possible damage to this system or accidental deployment of the airbag it is recommended that any work involving airbag system components be left to a dealer service department or other qualified repair shop.

Details of the wiper/washer switch cover (standard column)

ity between the switch terminals at the electrical connector (see illustrations). 6 Replace the wiper/washer switch if the continuity is not as speci-

fied.

Replacement

have low, high and two delay modes

Refer to illustrations 10.10, 10.14, 10.15, 10.17, 10.19, 10.20, 10.21, 10.22a, 10.22b and 10.24 7 On tilt-column models, remove the steering wheel (see Chapter 10). 8 Remove the lower steering column cover, the silencer and the lower reinforcement (see illustration 9.8). 9 Detach the wiring harness trough from the steering column (see illustration 9.9). 10 On standard-column models, remove the washer/wiper switch cover (see illustration). Rotate the cover upward. 11. On tilt-column models, remove the lock plate, canceling cam and upper bearing spring (see illustrations 9.10a, 9.10b, 9.10c).

(maximum delay and minimum delay). But the procedure for checking all switches is the same - only the terminal designations differ. 2 __ Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 3 Remove the steering column lower cover (see Chapter 11). 4 Unplug the electrical connector (see illustration 9.4). 5 Use an ohmmeter or self-powered test light to check for continu-

and arm. 13 On tilt-column models, remove the hazard switch knob (see illustration 9.12). 14 Unplug the electrical connector down at the bottom of the steering column (see illustration).

Check Warning: We do not recommend testing the wiper/washer switch on models equipped with airbags. Have the switch tested by a dealer service department or other qualified shop. Refer to illustrations 10.5a, 10.5b, 10.5c and 10.5d 1 All models are equipped with a multi-function lever, located on the left side of the steering column, which controls the wiper/washer,

the turn signals and the dimmer switches. The wipers on earlier models are simply two speeds (low and high); later models also have a delay mode;

1991

and later models

12

On tilt-column models, remove the switch stalk actuator screw

12-10

Chapter 12 STEERING

COLUMN

ete / IGNITION_SWITCH = gxxeaped Fey ///CORNERING To = we |B i ({{. LAMPS pa

KEY-IN LAMP. *

KEY. eet IN BUZZER Sees 10.14

Chassis electrical system ce

z : 5, OF DIMMER

| specp WASH/WIPE im TURN SIGNAL CONTROL

The steering column electrical connectors (typical)

10.15

On standard-column models, rotate the ignition key to the

Off position and turn the steering wheel so the access hole in the hub area is at the 9 o’clock position; then, using a flat-bladed screwdriver, loosen the turn signal lever screw through this access hole

IGNITION KEY LAMP

10.17

On tilt-column models, remove the ignition key lamp

10.19 Remove the three housing cover screws (arrows) and lift the housing from the column

10.20 Remove the washer/wiper switch pivot pin with a pair of needle-nose pliers - if you can’t pull it out with pliers, drive it out with a small drift

WIPE/WASH SWITCH ASSEMBLY STEERING COLUMN

10.21

Remove the washer/wiper switch assembly (tilt-column model shown, standard column similar)

15 Onstandard-column models, rotate the ignition key to the Off position and turn the steering wheel so the access hole in the hub area is at the 9 o’clock position. Using a flat-bladed screwdriver, loosen the turn signal lever screw through this access hole (see illustration). 16

Ontilt-column models, remove the three turn signal switch retain-

ing screws (see illustration 9.14a) and remove the turn signal switch. 17 On tilt-column models, remove the ignition key lamp (see illus-

10.22a

Pull the hider up the control stalk

...

tration). 18 On tilt-column models, remove the ignition key lock cylinder (see Section 12). 19 On tilt-column models, remove the three housing cover screws (see illustration) and remove the housing. This will require the use of a Torx bit. 20 On tilt-column models, remove the washer/wiper switch pivot pin

Chapter 12 WINDSHIELD WIPER SWITCH

ALIGNMENT

WITH SPEED CONTROL

HIDER

12-11

Chassis electrical system SLOT

MULTI-FUNCTION CONTROL STALK

WASH/WIPE

10.22b

. and remove the two screws that attach the control stalk sleeve to the washer/wiper switch

IGNITION

LOCK

SWITCH

IGNITION

ACTIVATOR ROD

SWITCH

10.24 Rotate the control stalk shaft to its full clockwise position and remove the shaft from the switch by pulling it straight out

CYLINDER

LOCK HOUSING KEY BUZZER SWITCH AND WEDGE SPRING

GEARSHIFT

HOUSING COVER SCREWS (3)

HOUSING

MOUNTING BOLT 11.14

(see illustration). 21 Remove the washer/wiper switcn assembly (see illustration). 22 Pull the hider up the control stalk and remove the two screws that attach the control stalk sleeve to the washer/wiper switch (see illustrations). Use tape to hold the dimmer switch rod in place. 23 Remove the washer/wiper switch control knob from the end of

the multifunction control stalk (see illustration 10.22b). 24

12.3a

An exploded view of the ignition switch assembly

Rotate the control stalk shaft to its full clockwise position and re-

move the shaft from the switch by pulling straight out of the switch (see illustration). 25

Installation is the reverse of removal.

11

Ignition switch - check and replacement

This is what the key buzzer switch and wedge spring looks like ..

lead. 6

Remove the lower panel reinforcement (see illustration 9.8).

9

Remove the five nuts which attach the steering column to the

support bracket.

10 Lower the column for access to the ignition switch. 11. Unplug the electrical connector from the ignition switch. 12 Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn it to the Lock position. 13. Tape the ignition switch rod to the steering column to prevent the rod from falling out of the lock cylinder assembly. 14. Remove the two mounting bolts from the ignition switch and remove the switch (see illustration). 15 Installation is the reverse of removal. As the switch is engaged to the actuator rod, push up on the switch to remove any slack from the rod before fully tightening the bolts.

Check 1 _The ignition switch is located on top of the steering column and is actuated by a rod attached to the key lock cylinder.

2 3

Remove the switch (see Steps 5 through 14).

Referring to the Wiring Diagrams at the end of this Chapter, turn the ignition key to each position and, using an ohmmeter or self-powered test light, verify that there’s continuity between the ignition switch terminals for each key position. 4 if the switch does not have correct continuity, replace it.

Replacement Refer to illustration 11.14 5 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 6 Remove the steering colurnn cover (see illustration 9.8) 7 Onmodeis equipped with an automatic transaxle, place the gear selector lever in the Drive position and unplug the indicator electrical

12

Ignition key lock cylinder —- replacement

Warning: 1991 models are eguipped with an airbag system. To avoid

possible damage to this system or accidental deployment of the airbag it is recommended that any work involving airbag system components

be left to a dealer service department or other qualified repair shop. Refer to illustration 12.3a, 12.3b and 12.4 1 Remove the steering wheel (see Chapter 10). 2 Detach the turn signal/hazard warning switch assembly and let it hang out of the way (see Section 9). 3 Turn the ignition key to the On position and extract the key buzzer switch and wedge spring (see illustrations). 4 Turn the ignition key to the Lock position, insert a small screwdriver into the slot next to the boss for the switch mounting screw (the

12

12-12

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

ANNE”

12.3b ... to get it out, grasp it with a pair of needle-nose pliers and pull - make a note of how the switch/spring assembly

12.4 To remove the ignition key lock cylinder, insert a small screwdriver into the slot next to the boss for the switch

is installed to ensure that you put it back

mounting screw (the right-hand slot),

in the same way (or it won’t work)

depress the spring latch at the bottom of the slot and pull out the lock

13.5

To remove the switch plate, remove the four retaining

13.6

screws (arrows)

13.4

Carefully pry the trim bezel loose from the dashboard with a small screwdriver, then pull it off

Pull the switch assembly out of the dash and unplug the electrical connectors

right-hand slot), depress the spring latch at the bottom of the slot and pull out the lock (see illustration). 5 Installation is the reverse of removal.

13

Headlight switch - check and replacement

Check 1

~The headlight switch assembly is the far left switch on the switch

plate at the lower left corner of the dashboard. To check the switch,

you’ll need to pull the switch plate assembly out of the dash (see Steps 4 and 5) so you can check continuity at the terminals on the

backside of the switch. 2 Referring to the Wiring Diagrams at the end of this Chapter, use an ohmmeter to verify that there’s no continuity across the terminals — when the switch is at the Off position and that there is continuity when

the switch is at the On position. 3 If the switch doesn’t perform as described, replace it. Replacement

Refer to illustrations 13.4, 13.5, 13.6 and 13.7

4 Pry off the trim bezel (see illustration). 5 Remove the four switch plate retaining screws (see illustration) and pull it out.

13.7

To remove the headlight switch from the switch plate, unscrew the retainer with a nut driver

6 Pull the switch assembly out of the dash and unplug the electrical connectors (see illustration).

7

Pull off the headlight knob and unscrew the retainer (see illustra-

tion). 8 Remove the headlight switch. 9 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Chapter 12 BULB-DUAL RECTANGULAR

SEAT

Chassis electrical system VERTICAL ADJUSTER

SPRING 1 PER LAMP

SEAT

SEALED

HORIZONTAL ADJUSTER

ADJUSTER 14.3a

14.8a

RETAINING RING

SCREW 14.3b

An exploded view of a dual sealed beam assembly

To replace a halogen headlight

14.8b

bulb, unscrew the retaining ring ... 14

Headlights - removal and installation

1

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.

An exploded view of a single sealed beam assembly

. and pull the holder out of the headlight lens assembly

Sealed-beam headlights Refer to illustrations 14.3a and 14.3b 2 Remove the screws from the headlight bezel and remove the bezel. 3 Remove the headlight retainer screws and remove the retainer —

14.9

Grasp the halogen bulb holder and unplug the electrical connector

ring and pull the holder assembly out for access to the bulb (see illustrations). 9 Unplug the electrical connector from the bulb holder (see illustration). 10 Grasp the bulb holder and pull the bulb straight out. 11 Installation is the reverse of removal.

15

Headlights - adjustment

don’t disturb the adjustment screws (see illustrations).

4 Pull out the sealed beam unit and unplug the electrical connector by pulling it straight off. 5 Installation is the reverse of removal. 6 Adjust the headlights when you’re done (see Section 15).

Halogen headlights Refer to illustration 14.8a, 14.8b and 14.9

Warning: Halogen bulbs are gas-filled and under pressure and may shatter if the surface is scratched or the bulb is dropped. Wear eye protection and handle the bulbs carefully, grasping only the base whenever possible. Don’t touch the surface of the bulb with your fin-

gers because the oil from your skin could cause it to overheat and fail prematurely. If you do touch the bulb surface, clean it with rubbing alcohol. 7

Open the hood. On left side (driver’s side) headlights, it many be

necessary to detach the engine coolant reservoir and move it out of the way (see Chapter 3). 8 Reach behind the headlight assembly, unscrew the bulb retaining

Refer to illustrations 15.1a and 15.1b

Note: The headlights must be aimed correctly. If adjusted incorrectly, they could temporarily blind the driver of an oncoming vehicle and cause an accident or seriously reduce your ability to see the road. The headlights should be checked for proper aim every 12 months and any time a new headlight is installed or front end body work is performed. The following procedure is only an interim step to provide temporary adjustment until the headlights can be adjusted by a properly equipped shop.

1 Headlights have two spring loaded adjusting screws, one for horizontal (left-and-right) movement and one for vertical (up-and-down) movement. On vehicles with earlier dual sealed-beam type headlight assemblies, the horizontal adjusting screw for each headlight is at the top and the vertical adjusting screw is either also on the top (upper headlight) or on the side (lower headlight). On later single sealed-beam type headlights, the vertical adjusting screw is on the top and the horizontal adjusting screw is on the side. On models with aero-type halogen headlights, the horizontal adjusting screw is on the top and the

12

12-14

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system HORIZONTAL ADJUSTER

VERTICAL ADJUSTER

HEADLAMP LENS ASSEMBLY

15.1a Onsome halogen-type headlights, the upper adjustment screw (arrow) is for horizontal adjustment, the lower screw (arrow) is for vertical adjustment

HOUSING

15.1b

On some halogen-type headlights, the upper front

screw is for horizontal adjustment, the upper rear screw is

for vertical adjustment

HEADLAMP BEZEL HEADLAMP BEZEL

PARK & TURN SIGNAL LAMP ASSEMBLY

SIDE MARKER LAMP

LENS 16.1a Typical front parking light, turn signal light and side marker light bezel and lenses (dual sealed-beam type headlights)

LENS

16.1b Typical front parking light, turn signal light and side marker light bezel and lenses (single sealed-beam type headlights)

HOUSING

16.1d

FILLER

16.1¢

Typical tail light, turn signal light, back-up light and side marker light lens and housing

To get at the light bulbs inside the rear lens, raise the liftgate, remove these two screws (arrows), ...

vertical adjusting screw is either on the bottom or on the upper back side of the headlight assembly (see illustrations). Refer to the illustrations accompanying the previous Section for the location of adjusting screws on typical sealed-beam type headlight assemblies. 2 _ This procedure requires a blank wall 25 feet in front of the vehicle and a level floor. 3 Position masking tape vertically on the wall in reference to the ve-

Chapter 12

16.1e

S

...

...

turn the bulb holder counterclockwise, pull it out of the housing ...

SOCKET AND CABLE ASSEMBLY

12-15

Chassis electrical system

then turn the bulb counterclockwise and pull it out of the holder

LIFT GATE sana

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0"

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LICENSE LAMPS 16.1g

Exploded view of typical license plate lights

hicle centerline and the centerlines of both headlights.

16.2a To remove a bulb holder from the instrument cluster, simply turn it counterclockwise and pull straight out - the bulb can then be pulled from the holder

4 Position a horizontal tape line in reference to the centerline of all the headlights. Note: /t may be easier to position the tape on the wall with the vehicle parked only a few inches away. 5 Adjustment should be made with the vehicle sitting level, the gas tank half-full and no unusually heavy load in the vehicle. 6 Starting with the low beam adjustment, position the high intensity zone so it’s two inches below the horizontal line and two inches to the right of the headlight vertical line. Adjustment is made by turning the top adjusting screw clockwise to raise the beam and counterclockwise to lower the beam. The adjusting screw on the side should be used in the same manner to move the beam left or right. 7 With the high beams on, the high intensity zone should be vertically centered with the exact center just below the horizontal line.

Note: /t may not be possible to position the headlight aim exactly for both high and low beams. If a compromise must be made, keep in mind that the low beams are the most used and have the greatest effect on driver safety. 8 Have the headlights adjusted by a dealer service department or service station at the earliest opportunity. 16.2b 16

Bulb replacement

Refer to illustrations 16.1a, 16.1b, 16.1c, 16.10, 16.1e, 16.1f, 16.19, 16.2a, 16.2b, 16.3a, 16.3b and 16.3c 1. The lenses of most exterior lights are held in place by trim bezels, which are secured to the vehicle with a combination of clips and screws. To replace burned out bulbs, simply remove the bezels and lenses (see illustrations). 2 Several types of bulbs are used inside the vehicle. Some, like in-

To replace a bulb in the headlight switch panel, simply pull it straight out

strument cluster bulbs (See Section 19 for instrument cluster removal), can be removed by pushing in and turning them counterclockwise (see illustration). Others, such as the headlight switch illumination bulb, can be removed by simply pulling them straight out of the socket (see illustration). 3 Toreplace a dome light bulb, pry the lamp assembly out of the headliner with a small screwdriver, separate the lens from the base and pull the bulb out of its mounting clips (see illustrations).

12-16

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

a 16.3a

16.3c

16.3b

To replace a dome light, pry the assembly from the headliner with a small screwdriver ...

...

17.4a

then grasp the bulb and pull it out of the clips

Toremove the radio, remove these two

screws (arrows)

...

separate the lens from the housing,

...

17.3. The radio bezel is held in place by five screws (arrows) (To get at the two screws underneath — not visible in this photo — remove the ashtray)

17.4b

...

...

and pull the radio out far enough to get at the wires on the back

radio out of the dash panel (see illustration). 17.

Radio - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 17.3, 17.4a, 17.4b and 17.5

1 Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. 2 Remove the ashtray. 3 Remove the screws and detach the bezel from the dash (see illustrations). 4 Remove the radio mounting screws (see illustration) and pull the

5 Unplug the antenna lead and disconnect the electrical connectors (see illustration). 6 Installation is the reverse of removal.

18

Antenna - removal and installation

Refer to illustration 18.1 1 To remove the antenna, simply unscrew it from its base (see il-

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

as

ican

17.5

18.1

Disconnect the antenna lead, the ground lead and the electrical connectors and remove the radio

19.3a

Instrument cluster mounting screws (arrows)

lustration). 2 Installation is the reverse of removal. be sure the threads of the base free of corrosion to ensure a good connection.

Unscrew the antenna with a small wrench

19.3b Pull the instrument cluster as far out as it’ll go, then reach behind it and disconnect the speedometer cable clip and the electrical connectors

3 If it’s necessary to remove the base, a special socket is required. This tool can be purchased at most auto parts stores. 19

Instrument cluster - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 19.3a and 19.3b Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 2 Remove the cluster bezel (see Chapter 11). 3 Remove the cluster mounting screws (see illustration). Pull the assembly out (see illustration), reach behind the cluster and depress the speedometer cable clip. Detach the cable from the speedometer, unplug the electrical connectors and remove the cluster from the dash. 20.8 20

Windshield wiper motor - check and replacement

Check 1 If the wiper motor does not run at all, first check the fuse block for a blown fuse (see Section 3). 2 Check the wiper switch (See Section 10). 3. Turn the ignition switch and wiper switch on. 4 Connect a jumper wire between the wiper motor and ground, then retest. If the motor works now, repair the ground connection. 5 If the wipers still don’t work, turn on the wipers and check for voltage at the motor connector. If there’s voltage, remove the motor

Flip up the hinged cover on the shaft end of the wiper arm and remove the nut (arrow)

and check it off the vehicle with fused jumper wires from the battery. If the motor now works, check for binding linkage. If the motor still doesn’t work, replace it.

6 If there’s no voltage at the motor, the problem is in the switch or wiring.

Replacement Refer to illustrations 20.8, 20.9, 20.10, 20.11, 20.12 and 20.13

7

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.

12

12-18

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

20.10 Remove the six retaining screws from the plastic cowl, flip up the cowl and detach the washer hoses (arrows)

20.11

Remove the leaf screen to get at the wiper linkage

8 Flip up the hinged cover on the shaft end of the wiper arms and remove the nuts (see illustration). 9 Detach the washer hoses and remove the wiper arms (see illustration). 10 Remove the six cowl retaining screws (three in the grille and three along the front edge), lift up the cowl, detach the washer hose (see illustration) and remove the cowl. 11. Remove the screen (see illustration). 12 Remove the nut that attaches the crank arm to the motor and detach the crank (see illustration). 13. Unplug the wiper motor electrical connector and remove the mounting nuts (see illustration). 14 Installation is the reverse of removal.

21

Power window system - description and check

The power window system operates the electric motors mounted in the doors which lower and raise the windows. The system consists of the control switches, the motors, glass mechanisms (regulators) and the associated wiring. Because of the complexity of the power window system and the special tools and techniques required for diagnosis, repair should be left to a dealer service department or a repair shop. However, it is pos-

sible for the home mechanic to make simple checks of the wiring connections and motors for minor faults which can be easily repaired.

These include:

20.12

Remove this nut (arrow) and detach the crank arm from the wiper motor

a) Inspect the power window actuating switches for broken wires and loose connections. b) Check the power window fuse/and or circuit breaker. c) Remove the door panel(s) and check the power window motor wires to see if they’re loose or damaged. Inspect the glass mechanisms for damage which could cause binding.

22

Power door lock system - description and check

The power door lock system operates the door lock actuators mounted in each door. The system consists of the switches, actuators and associated wiring. Since special tools and techniques are required to diagnose the system, it should be left to a dealer service department or a repair shop. However, it is possible for the home mechanic to make simple checks of the wiring connections and actuators for minor faults which can be easily repaired. These include: a) Check the system fuse and/or circuit breaker. b) Check the switch wires for damage and loose connections. Check the switches for continuity. c) Remove the door panel(s) and check the actuator wiring connections to see if they’re loose or damaged. Inspect the actuator rods (if equipped) to make sure they aren’t bent or damaged. Inspect the actuator wiring for damaged or loose connections. The actuator can be checked by applying battery power momentarily. A discernible click indicates that the solenoid is operating properly.

Chapter 12

12-19

Chassis electrical system

WIRE COLOR CODE CHART

COLOR CODE

STANDARD TRACER

STANDARD | coior TRACER COLOR | cope

CODE BK OR

jax|auace ete s.|we|Co | BROWN DARK BLUE DARK

oeay ae

vn

a Sr] |e jon) oe LIGHT

20.13

23

Unplug the electrical connector (arrow), remove the three mounting nuts (arrows) and remove the wiper motor

LIGHT

Cruise control system - description and check

The cruise control system maintains vehicle speed with a vacuumactuated servo motor located in the engine compartment, which is connected to the throttle linkage by a cable. The system consists of the servo motor, clutch switch, brake switch, control switches, a relay and associated vacuum hoses. Because of the complexity of the cruise control system and the special tools and techniques required for diagnosis, repair should be left to a dealer service department or other repair shop. However, it’s possible for the home mechanic to make simple checks of the wiring and vacuum connections for minor faults which can be easily repaired. These include: a) Inspect the cruise control actuating switches for broken wires and loose connections. b) Check the cruise control fuse. c) The cruise control system is operated by vacuum so it’s critical that all vacuum switches, hoses and connections are secure. Check the hoses in the engine compartment for tight connections, cracks and obvious vacuum leaks.

24.2

24

Wire color code chart

Wiring diagrams general information

Refer to illustration 24.2 Since it isn’t possible to include all wiring diagrams for every year covered by this manual, the following diagrams are typical and most commonly needed. Prior to troubleshooting any circuits, check the fuse and circuit breakers (if equipped) to make sure they’re in good condition. Make sure the battery is properly charged and check the cable connections (see Chapter 1). When checking a circuit, make sure all connectors are clean, with no broken or loose terminals. When

unplugging a connector, don’t pull on the wires. Pull only on the connector housings. Refer to the accompanying table for the wire color codes applicable to the diagrams in this manual (see illustration).

pi

Chassis electrical system Chapter 12

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12-37 Chassis electrical system Chapter 12

12

index A

About this manual: 0-5 Accelerator cable, replacement: 4-10 Air aspirator system: 6-10 Air cleaner housing assembly, removal and installation: 4-9 Air conditioner/heater assembly (rear), removal and installation: 3-19 Air conditioning blower motor, removal and installation: 3-10 compressor, removal and installation: 3-14 condenser, removal and installation: 3-15

Automatic transaxle: 7B-1 through 8 band adjustment: 1-43 diagnosis: 7B-2 filter, change: 1-42 fluid, change: 1-42 fluid level, check: 1-14 general information: 7B-2 removal and installation: 7B-5 Axle assembly (rear), removal and installation: Auxiliary (rear) heater/air conditioner: 3-15

10-12

control assembly, removal and installation: 3-12

evaporator, removal and installation: 3-15 filter-drier, removal and installation: 3-14 receiver-drier, removal and installation: 3-14

B Back-up light bulb, replacement:

system check and maintenance:

Balance shafts, removal, installation and chain tensioning: 2B-7, 2E-20

3-12

12-15

general information: 3-2 Air conditioning system: 3-1 through 16 Air filter, housing assembly, removal and installation: 4-9 Air filter replacement: 1-29 Air injection (Al) system: 6-9 Air intake plenum (multi-point EFI), removal and installation: 4-37 Air pump, check and replacement: 6-9 AIS (Automatic Idle Speed) motor, check, removal and installation: 4-35 Alignment, front end: 10-16 Alternator, removal and installation: 5-14

Balljoint, check and replacement: 10-10 Band, adjustment (automatic transaxle): 1-43 Battery cables, check and replacement: 5-2 charging: 1-19 check and maintenance: 1-18 electrolyte level, checking: 1-12 emergency jump starting: 0-15, 5-2 removal and installation: 5-2 Battery jump starting: 0-15 Bearing (clutch release), removal and installation: 8-3 Bearing (main, engine), oil clearance check: 2E-29

Alternator brushes, replacement: 5-15 Antenna, removal and installation: 12-16 Antifreeze draining and refilling: 1-39 general information: 3-3 Anti-lock Brake System (ABS), general information: Automatic choke system: 6-7 Automatic Idle Speed (AIS) motor, check, removal and installation: 4-35

Bearings, main and connecting rod, inspection: 2E-27 Belts (engine), check, adjustment and replacement: 1-27 Bleeding

—__oo_—_—

9-19

brake system: 9-15 power steering system: Block (engine) cleaning: 2E-22 honing: 2E-24 inspection: 2E-24

10-16

Index ee

Blower motor, heater and air conditioner, removal

and installation: 3-10 Body: 11-1 through 20 general information: 11-1 maintenance: 11-1 Body code plate: 0-6 Body repair major damage: 11-3 minor damage: 11-2 Booster (brake), inspection, removal and installation: 9-18 Booster battery (jump) starting: 0-15 Boots driveaxle check: 1-43 replacement: 8-13 steering gear, replacement:

10-14 Brake Anti-lock Brake System (ABS), general information: 9-19 booster, inspection, removal and installation: 9-18 cables, removal and installation: 9-16 caliper, removal, overhaul and installation: 9-5 disc, inspection, removal and installation: 9-7 drum, removal and installation: 1-36 fluid bleeding: 9-15 level check: 1-12 general information: 9-2 hoses and lines, inspection and replacement: 9-15 light bulb, replacement: 12-15 light switch, check and replacement: 9-19 master cylinder, removal and installation: 9-13 pads, replacement: 9-2 parking, adjustment: 9-16 rotor, inspection, removal and installation: 9-7 shoes, replacement: 9-9 system, check: 1-38 system bleeding: 9-15 wheel cylinder, removal, overhaul and installation: 9-12 Brakes: 9-1 through 20 Break-in (engine): 2E-34 Bulb, replacement:

12-15

Bumpers, removal and installation: Buying parts: 0-8

11-6

Charging system check: 5-13 general information and precautions: 5-13 Chassis electrical system: 12-1 through 37 Chassis lubrication: 1-21 Chemicals and lubricants: 0-17 Choke, automatic system: 6-7 Circuit breakers, general information:

12-4

Clutch cable, removal and installation: 8-2

components, removal, inspection and installation: 8-4 description and check: 8-2 disc, removal, inspection and installation: 8-4 general information: 8-2 release bearing and fork, removal and installation: 8-3 Clutch and driveaxles: 8-1 through 16 Clutch cable, removal and installation: 8-2 Coil, ignition, check and replacement: 5-6 Combustion chamber conditioner, application: 1-41 Compression, cylinder, checking: 2E-8 Condenser, removal and installation:

3-15

Connecting rods bearing inspection: 2E-27 inspection: 2E-25 installation and oil clearance check: 2E-32 removal: 2E-19 Console, removal and installation: 11-13 Constant velocity joint, overhaul: 8-8 Control arm, removal and installation: 10-7 Converter (catalytic): 6-30 Coolant general information: 3-3 level check: 1-12 reservoir, removal and installation: 3-7 temperature sending unit, check and replacement: Cooling fan, check and replacement: 3-4 Cooling system: 3-1 through 16 check: 1-35 coolant, general information: 3-3 general information: 3-2 servicing: 1-39 Core (heater), removal and installation: 3-11 Counterbalance shafts, removal, installation and chain tensioning: 2B-7, 2E-20

3-10

Crankshaft front oil seal, replacement:

C Cable battery, check and replacement: 5-2 clutch, removal and installation: 8-2 parking brake, removal and installation: 9-16 shift, check and adjustment: 7A-2, 7B-3 Caliper (brake), removal, overhaul and installation:

Cruise control, description and check:

9-5

Camshaft oil seal, replacement: 2A-10, 2B-10, 2C-11 removal, inspection and installation: 2A-11, 2B-11, 2C-13, 2E-32 Camshaft and bearings (3.3L engine only), removal andinspection: 2E-18 Camshaft cover, removal and installation:

Carburetor adjustments: 4-23, 4-29 choke check: 1-32 description and service information: electronic feedback system: 6-4 overhaul: 4-18, 29 removal and installation: 4-15 Carpets, maintenance:

2A-11, 2B-11, 2C-11, 2D-10

inspection: 2E-26 installation and main bearing oil clearance check: 2E-29 removal: 2E-22

11-2

Catalytic converter: 6-30

2A-4, 2B-3, 2C-3

12-19

CV (Constant Velocity) joint, overhaul: 8-8 Cylinder block cleaning: 2E-22 honing: 2E-24 inspection: 2E-24 Cylinder compression check: 2E-8 Cylinder head(s) cleaning and inspection: 2E-16 disassembly: 2E-15 reassembly: 2E-18 removal and installation: 2A-15, 2B-13, 2C-12, 2D-7 valves, servicing: 2E-16 Cylinder honing: 2E-24

4-15

D Dashboard instruments, removal and installation: 12-17 Dashboard panels, removal and installation: 11-14, 16

Index |OPRPROLES

ELSES TEES

RR

AR

Dent repair major damage:

11-3

minor damage:

11-2

Or

I

I

A

EES

SIR

EES CR

Diagnosis: 0-20 Dimmer switch, check and replacement: 12-5 Disc (brake), inspection, removal and installation: 9-7 Disc brake Caliper, removal, overhaul and installation: 9-5 pads, replacement: 9-2 Distributor cap, check and replacement: 1-24 removal and installation: 5-9 Distributor rotor, check and replacement: 1-24 Door front, removal and installation: 11-11 handles, removal and installation: 11-8 latch, removal and installation: 11-8 lock cylinder, removal and installation: 11-8 lock system (power), description and check: 12-18 sliding, removal, installation and adjustment: 11-11 trim panel, removal and installation: 11-6 window glass, removal and installation: 11-12 Driveaxle, boot check: 1-43 replacement: 8-13 Driveaxle intermediate shaft, removal and installation:

Driveaxles: 8-1 through 16 general information: 8-2, 6 removal and installation: 8-7 Drivebelt, check, adjustment and replacement: Driveplate, removal and installation:

8-8

STE

GOED

TSE

RINE

TLE

LOCRE PSOE

IIE OATES

EE

IESE ELE EEL

ETE

LL

ETE LE,

mount, check and replacement: 2A-20, 2B-16, 2C-16, 2D-14 oil change: 1-17 level check: 1-11 oil seal, replacement: 2A-10, 11, 20, 2B-10, 11, 16, 2C-11, 16, 2D-10, 13, 2E-32 overhaul: 2E-1 through 34 disassembly sequence: 2E-11 general information: 2E-7 reassembly sequence: 2E-28 overhaul alternatives: 2E-11 rebuilding, alternatives: 2E-11 removal, methods and precautions: 2E-9 removal and installation: 2E-9 repair operations possible with engine in vehicle: 2A-3, 2B-3, 2C-2, 2D-2 tune-up: 1-1 through 44 Engine electrical systems: 5-1 through 20 general information: 5-2 Engine emissions control systems: 6-1 through 31 Engine fuel and exhaust systems: 4-1 through 46 Engine identification number: 0-7 EVAP system: 6-23 Evap system, check: 1-44 Evaporative Emission Control System: 6-23 Evaporative emissions control system, check: 1-44 Evaporator, removal and installation: 3-15 Exhaust, manifold, removal and installation:

1-27

2A-19, 2B-16,

2C-15, 2D-13 Drum (brake), removal and installation:

FECES OE

1-36

Drum brake wheel cylinder, removal, overhaul

and installation: 9-12

2A-5, 2B-6, 2C-7, 2D-6 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system: 6-27 check: 1-33 Exhaust system: check: 1-35 general information: 4-3 servicing: 4-46

Fr

E EECS (Evaporative Emission Control System): 6-23 EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) system: 6-27 EGR system, check:

1-33

Electric door lock system, description and check: 12-18 windows, description and check: 12-18 Electrical circuit diagrams: 12-20 through 37 system, general information: 12-2 troubleshooting, general information: 12-2 Electrical system (chassis): 12-1 through 37 Electrical systems (engine): 5-1 through 20 Emergency battery jump starting: 0-15 Emissions control systems: 6-1 through 31 general information: 6-2 Emissions system sensors: 6-18 Engine: 2A-1 through 22, 2B-1 through 16, 2C-1 through 16, 2D-1 through 14, 2E-1 through 34 block cleaning: 2E-22 inspection: 2E-24 coolant general information: 3-3 level check: 1-12 cooling fan, check and replacement: 3-4 cylinder head, removal and installation: 2A-15, 2B-13, 2C-12, 2D-7 drivebelts, check, adjustment and replacement: 1-27 general information:

2A-3, 2B-2, 2C-2, 2D-2

idle speed, check and adjustment:

1-40

Fan, engine cooling, check and replacement: 3-4 Fault finding: 0-20 Fender (front), removal and installation: 11-16 Filter air, replacement: 1-29 automatic transaxle, replacement: 1-42 fuel, replacement: 1-20 oil, change: 1-17 Filter-drier, removal and installation:

Fluid automatic transaxle change: 1-42 checking: 1-14 level checks: 1-11 manual transaxle changing: 1-42 checking: 1-20 power steering, checking:

3-14

1-15

Flywheel, removal and installation:

2A-19, 2B-16, 2C-15, 2D-13

Front end alignment, general information: 10-16 Front fender, removal and installation: 11-16 Front suspension balljoint, check and replacement: 10-10 control arm, removal and installation: 10-7 stabilizer bar, removal and installation: 10-6 strut, replacement: 10-5 strut assembly, removal and installation: 10-2 Fuel filter, replacement: 1-20 lines and fittings, replacement: 4-11

ne UU EIEN

Index pressure, testing: 4-4 pressure relief procedure: 4-3 pump, removal and installation: 4-7

Hazard, flasher, check and replacement: 12-4 Hazard warning switch, check and replacement: 12-6 Head, cylinder, removal and installation: 2A-15, 2B-13,

pump/pressure, testing: 4-4 system check: 1-35 general information: 4-3 tank cleaning and repair: 4-9 removal and installation: 4-5 Fuel injection system Automatic Idle Speed (AIS) motor, check, removal and installation: 4-35 check: 4-30 fuel injector, check, removal and installation: 4-33, 414 fuel pressure regulator, removal and installation: 4-33, 42 fuel rail assembly, removal and installation: 4-38 general information: 4-30 throttle body mounting bolt/nut torque check: 1-34 removal and installation: 4-30, 35 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), check, removal and installation: 6-18 Fuel injector, check, removal and installation: 4-33, 41 Fuel pressure regulator, check, removal and installation: Fuel rail assembly, removal and installation: 4-38

Fuel system: 4-1 through 46 Fuses, general information: 12-2 Fusible links, general information:

2C-12, 2D-7 Head (cylinder) cleaning and inspection: 2E-16 disassembly: 2E-15 reassembly: 2E-18 Headlight adjustment: 12-13 dimmer switch, check and replacement: 12-5 removal and installation: 12-13 switch, replacement: 12-12 Heated inlet air system: 6-24 check: 1-34 Heater blower motor, removal and installation: 3-10 control assembly, removal and installation: 3-12 core, removal and installation: 3-11 Heater/air conditioner assembly (rear), removal and installation: 3-19 Heating system: 3-1 through 16 general information: 3-2 High altitude compensation system: 6-8 4-33, 42

Hinges, maintenance: 11-3 Honing, cylinder: 2E-24

Hood adjustment: 11-3 removal and installation: 11-3 Hoses brake, inspection and replacement: 9-15 check and replacement: 1-33

12-3

GC

Hub (front), removal and installation: 10-9 Hub (rear), removal and installation: 10-11

Gauge cluster, removal and installation: 12-17 Gauges, removal and installation: 12-17

Gear (steering), removal and installation: 10-14 Gear reduction assembly (starter motor), replacement: 5-19 Gearshift cables (manual transaxle), check and adjustment: 7A-2 General information automatic transaxle: 7B-2 body: 11-1 brakes: 9-2 clutch and driveaxles: 8-2 cooling, heating and air conditioning systems: 3-2 driveaxles: 8-6 electrical system: 12-2 emissions control systems: 6-2 engine electrical systems: 5-2 engine overhaul: 2E-7

l Idle speed, check and adjustment: 1-40 Idle-up system: 6-8 Ignition coil, check and replacement: 5-6 distributor, removal and installation: 5-9 system check: 5-3 general information: 5-3 Ignition switch, check and replacement: 12-11 Ignition system, Hall effect pick-up assembly, replacement: Ignition timing, check and adjustment: 1-40

fuel injection system: : 4-30 fuel system::4-3

inormelapensete: C18 Initial start-up and break-in after overhaul: 2E-34

Boy ae pacha ignition system: 5-3

Injection (fuel) system :

manual transaxle: 7A-2

ee

steering and suspension systems: tune-up: 1-10 Z ; turbocharger:

10-2

4-44

‘

; tae penerator (altermator), removaliand ipsiallatien: eld, Generator (alternator) brushes, replacement: 5-15

Grille, removal and installation:

a

evra UvaNuias ; ; Instrument cluster, removal and installation: 12-17 Instrument cluster bezel, removal, installation

wheels and tires: 10-16

Glass Glass (fixed), (hinged),replacement: removal and 11-3 installation:

5-11

11-13

;

aie uetmen At 5 : : Intake manifold, removal and installation: 2A-5, 2B-6, 2C-5, 2D-4 Intermediate shaft (driveaxle), removal and installation: 8-8 Intermediate shaft oil seal, replacement: 2A-10 ; Introduction to the Dodge Caravan and Plymouth ViVoyager: anne0-5

11-16

J H

Jacking:

Hall effect pick-up assembly, replacement:

Jet Air Control Valve (JACV) system: Jump starting: 0-15

5-11

0-15 6-8

Index

K

seal

engine: 2A-10, 11, 20, 2B-10, 11, 16, 2C-11, 16, 2D-10, 18

Key lock cylinder (ignition), replacement:

12-11

Knuckle and hub, removal and installation:

10-9

L Lash adjusters, removal, inspection and installation:

Leaf springs, removal and installation:

2A-11, 2C-5

10-12

Lifters, removal, inspection and installation: 2D-8 Liftgate, removal, installation and adjustment: 11-12 Linings (brake) check: 1-38

replacement:

transaxle: 7A-4, 7B-2 Outside mirror, removal and installation: 11-17 Overhaul engine: 2E-1 through 34 general information: 2E-3 manual transaxle, general information: 7A-6 Overhaul (engine) alternatives: 2E-11 disassembly sequence: 2E-11 initial start-up and break-in: 2E-34 reassembly sequence: 2E-28 Owner maintenance: 1-1

9-9

Locks maintenance: 11-3 power door, description and check:

Logic module, general information: Lubricants: 0-17 Lubrication, chassis:

p 12-18 6-11

Pads (brake), replacement:

9-2

Pan, oil, removal and installation:

2A-17, 2B-14, 2C-13, 2D-11

Parking brake adjustment: 9-16 cables, removal and installation: 9-16 Parking lamp bulb, replacement: 12-15

1-21

Parts, replacement:

M

0-8

PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) system: 6-22

Main and connecting rod bearings, inspection: 2E-27 Main bearing, oil clearance, check: 2E-29 Maintenance introduction: 1-10 techniques: 0-8 Maintenance schedule: 1-9 Manifold exhaust, removal and installation: 2A-5, 2B-6, 2C-7, 2D-6 intake, removal and installation: 2A-5, 2B-6, 2C-5, 2D-4 Manual transaxle: 7A-1 through 6 general information: 7A-2 lubricant changing: 1-42 check:

1-20

overhaul, general information: 7A-4 removal and installation: 7A-5 Manual transaxle, oil seal, replacement: 7A-4 Master cylinder, removal and installation: 9-13 Mirrors, removal and installation: 11-17

Mount, engine, check and replacement: 2C-16, 2D-14

2A-20, 2B-16,

Muffler check: 1-35 removal and installation: 4-46

PCV system, valve, check and replacement:

1-31

Pick-up coil, replacement: 5-1 Piston installation: 2E-32 rings, installation: 2E-28 Pistons and connecting rods inspection: 2E-25 installation: 2E-32 installation and rod bearing oil clearance check: 2E-32 removal: 2E-19 Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system: 6-22 valve, check and replacement: 1-31

Power ; brake booster, inspection, removal and installation: 9-18 door lock system, description and check: 12-18 window system, description and check: 12-18 Power module, general information: 6-11 Power steering bleeding: 10-16 fluid level, check: 1-15 pump, removal and installation: 10-13 Pressure (tire), checking: 1-13 Pressure plate, removal, inspection and installation: 8-4 Pulse Air Feeder (PAF) system: 6-10 Pushrods, removal, inspection and installation:

2D-3

Pump fuel, removal and installation: 4-7 oil, removal and installation: 2A-17, 2B-15, 2C-14, 2D-12 power steering, removal and installation: 10-15

N

water

Neutral start switch, check and replacement:

7B-5

O

check: 3-7 removal and installation: 3-7

R

Oil change: 1-17 filter, change: 1-17 level check: 1-11 pan, removal and installation: 2A-17, 2B-14, 2C-13, 2D-11 pump, removal and installation: 2A-17, 2B-15, 2C-14, 2D-12

Radiator coolant, general information: 3-3 draining, flushing and refilling: 1-39 grille, removal and installation: 11-16 removal and installation: 3-5

Index SL

SS

I ES SE SES RE IE

Radio antenna, removal and installation: removal and installation:

IT

LS MI

EE

IE OO

IS

EI FT EIT

I

IE TEEI EA

GE

EIT A EE

SE

12-16

boots, replacement:

2C-16, 2D-13, 2E-32 Rear spindle, removal and installation:

SD

Steering gear

12-16

Rear axle assembly, removal and installation: main oil seal, installation: 2A-20, 2B-16, shock absorber, removal and installation: Rear main oil seal (engine), replacement:

SS

10-14

removal and installation: 10-14 knuckle and hub, removal and installation: 10-9 pump (power), removal and installation: 10-15 system, check: 1-36 wheel, removal and installation: 10-13

10-12 2C-16, 2D-13, 2E-32 10-10 2A-20, 2B-16,

Steering and suspension systems, general information: Steering system: 10-1 through 16

10-11

Rear wheel bearing, check, repack and adjustment:

Stereo system, removal and installation:

12-16

Receiver-drier, removal and installation: 3-14 Regulator (voltage), general information: 5-17

1-36

Strut, replacement: 10-5 Strut assembly, removal and installation:

10-2

Relays, general information: 12-4 Release bearing (clutch), removal and installation: 8-3

Suspension, system, check: 1-36 Suspension system: 10-1 through 16

Reservoir (coolant), removal and installation:

Switch

3-7

Rings (piston), installation: 2E-28

brake lights, check and replacement:

Rocker arms, removal, inspection and installation:

2A-11, 2B-4,

headlight, replacement:

2C-4, 2D-8

turn signal, replacement:

10-2

9-19

12-12

12-6

Rods (connecting) installation: 2E-32 removal: 2E-19 Roller lifters, removal, inspection and installation: Rotor, check and replacement: 1-24

2D-8 T

Rotor (brake), inspection, removal and installation: 9-7 Routine maintenance: 1-1 through 44

S

Safe automotive repair practices: Safety:

0-18

0-18

SBEC (Single Board Engine Controller), general information: Scheduled maintenance: 1-9 Seat belt, check:

11-20

Seats, removal and installation: 11-18 Self-diagnosis system, description and code access: Sensors (information):

6-16

6-18

Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), check, removal

Shift cable (automatic transaxle), check and adjustment: Shift cables (manual transaxle), check and adjustment:

Shock absorber (rear), removal and installation: Shoes (brake) check: 1-38 replacement:

6-11

7B-3

and installation: 6-18

7A-2

Tie-rod ends, removal and installation:

10-10

10-13

Timing, ignition: 1-40 Timing belt and sprockets, removal and installation: 2A-6, 2C-9 Timing chain and sprockets, removal, inspection and installation: 2B-9, 2D-11

9-9

Single Board Engine Controller (SBEC), general information: Single Module Engine Controller (SMEC), general information: 6-11 SMEC (Single Module Engine Controller), general information: 6-11 Smog control systems: 6-1 through 31 Solenoid (starter), replacement: 5-19 Spark plug replacement: 1-22 wires: 1-24 Speed control system, description and check: 12-19 Speedometer drive pinion, removal and installation: 7A-6 Spindle (rear), removal and installation: 10-11 Splash shields, removal and installation:

Taillight bulb, replacement: 12-15 Tank (fuel) cleaning and repair, general information: 4-9 removal and installation: 4-5 TDC (top dead center), locating: 2A-3, 2B-3, 2C-3, 2D-2 Thermostat, check and replacement: 3-3 Thermostatic air cleaner: 6-24 check: 1-34 Throttle, valve, cable, replacement and adjustment: 7B-4 Throttle body mounting nut/bolt torque check: 1-34 removal and installation: 4-30, 35 Throttie cable, replacement: 4-10 Throttle opener (idle-up) system: 6-8

11-18

6-11

Timing chain cover, removal and installation: 2D-10 Tire checking: 1-13 rotation: 1-20 Tires and wheels, general information: 10-16 Tools: 0-8 Top Dead Center (TDC), locating: 2A-3, 2B-3, 2C-3, 2D-2 Towing: 0-15 TPS (Throttle Position Sensor), check, removal and installation: 6-18 Transaxle (automatic): 7B-1 through 8 band adjustment: 1-43 diagnosis: 7B-2 fluid level, check:

1-14

Stabilizer bar, removal and installation: 10-6 Starter motor, testing in-vehicle: 5-18 neutral start switch, replacement and adjustment: 7B-5 solenoid, replacement: 5-19

general information: 7B-2 removal and installation: 7B-5 Transaxle (manual): 7A-1 through 6 general information: 7A-2 overhaul, general information: 7A-6

Starter motor gear reduction assembly, replacement: 5-19 replacement: 5-18 Starter motor assembly, removal and installation: 5-18 Starting system, general information and precautions: 5-18

removal and installation: 7A-5 Transaxle identification number: 0-7 Trouble codes: 6-16 Troubleshooting: 0-20 electrical, general information: 12-2

Index Tune-up general information: 1-10 introduction: 1-10 Tune-up and routine maintenance:

Valve springs, retainers and seals, replacement:

2C-13, 2D-4 Valves, servicing: 2E-16 Vehicle Identification numbers:

1-1 through 44

0-6

Turbocharger

Vinyl trim, maintenance:

check: 4-44 general information: 4-44 removal and installation: 4-44 Turn signal bulb, replacement: 12-15 flasher, check and replacement: switch, replacement: 12-6

Voltage regulator, general information:

Underhood hose check and replacement:

1-33

Wheels and tires, general information: 10-16 Window, power, description and check: 12-18

11-2

0-5

Window regulator, removal and installation: Windshield and fixed glass, replacement: 11-3

Valve clearance, check and adjustment (2.6L engine only): Valve job: 2E-16

11-13

washer fluid, level check: 1-12 washer switch, check and replacement: 12-9 wiper blades, inspection and replacement: 1-15 wiper motor, check and replacement: 12-17

V Valve cover, removal and installation:

5-17

Water pump check: 3-7 removal and installation: 3-7 Wheel alignment: 10-16 cylinder, removal, overhaul and installation: 9-12 steering, removal and installation: 10-13 Wheel bearing, check, repack and adjustment: 1-36

7B-4

U Using this manual:

—

W

12-4

TV (Throttle Valve) cable, replacement and adjustment:

Upholstery, maintenance:

11-1

2A-13, 2B-5,

2A-4, 2B-3, 2C-3, 2D-3

1-24

wiper switch, check and replacement: Wiring diagrams, general information: Working facilities: 0-8

12-9 12-19

HAYNES AUTOMOTIVE

MANUALS

NOTE: New manuals are added to this list on a periodic basis. If you do not see a listing for your vehicle, consult your local Haynes dealer for the latest product information.

ACURA

704

Integra & Legend '86 thru '90 Jeep CJ — see JEEP (412) Mid-size models, Concord, Hornet, Gremlin & Spirit ’70 thru ’83 (Renault) Alliance & Encore all models ’83 thru '87 4000 all models ’80 thru ’87 5000 all models ’77 thru ’83 5000 all models ’84 thru '88

AUSTIN Healey Sprite — see MG Midget Roadster (265) 320i all 4 cyl models ’75 thru ’83 528i & 530i all models '75 thru '80 1500 thru 2002 all models except Turbo ’59 thru ’77 2500, 2800, 3.0 & Bavaria '69 thru '76

*1551

627

552

Century (front wheel drive) — see GENERAL MOTORS A-Cars (829) Buick, Oldsmobile & Pontiac Full-size (Front wheel drive) all models ’85 thru ’93 Buick Electra, LeSabre and Park Avenue; Oldsmobile Delta 8° Royale, Ninety Eight and Regency; Pontiac Bonneville Buick Oldsmobile & Pontiac Full-size (Rear wheel drive) Buick Electra 70 thru 84, Estate ‘70 thru 90, LeSabre '70 thru '79 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser ’70 thru 90, Delta 88 ’70 thru ’85, Ninety-eight ’70 thru 84 Pontiac Bonneville '70 thru ’81, Catalina ’70 thru ’81, Grandville ’70 thru 75, Parisienne ’84 thu 86

Mid-size all rear-drive Regal & Century models with V6, V8 and

Turbo '74 thru ’87 Regal — see GENERAL MOTORS (1671) Skyhawk — see GENERAL MOTORS J-Cars (766) Skylark all X-car models ’80 thru ’85

319 626

241 *1642

Cadillac Rear Wheel Drive all gasoline models ’70 thru ’90 Cimarron — see GENERAL

MOTORS J-Cars (766)

CAPRI 296 205 375

2000 MK | Coupe all models ’71 thru ’’75 2600 & 2800 V6 Coupe '71 thru '75 2800 Mk Il V6 Coupe ’75 thru ’78 Mercury Capri — see FORD Mustang (654)

CHEVROLET

*420

*1664 *1727 *831 *345

all models ’85 thru 91 Camaro V8 all models '70 thru’81 Camaro all models ’82 thru '91 Cavalier — see GENERAL MOTORS

J-Cars (766) Celebrity — see GENERAL MOTORS A-Cars (829) Chevelle, Malibu & El Camino all V6 & V8 models '69 thru ’87 Chevette & Pontiac T1000 all models '76 thru ’87 Citation all models '80 thru ’85 Corsica/Beretta all models '87 thru '92 Corvette all V8 models ’68 thru ’82 Corvette all models ’84 thru ’91

273

*85 thru ’90

Pick-ups ’67 thru 87 — Chevrolet & GMC, all full-size models ’67 thru ’87; Suburban, Blazer & Jimmy ’67 thru ’91 Pick-ups ’88 thru 92 — Chevrolet & GMC all full-size (C and K) models, ’88 thru ’92 Sprint & Geo Metro ’85 thru ’91 S-10 & GMC S-15 Pick-ups all models ’82 thru ’92

FORD “1476 788 *880 268 789 *2046 *9021

560 334 754

Vans -— Chevrolet & GMC, V8 & in-line 6 cyl models '68 thru ’92

ad

*1337

ak}

Chrysler & Plymouth Mid-size —~ front wheel drive '82 thru ’89 K-Cars — see DODGE Aries (723) Laser — see DODGE Daytona (1140)

DATSUN 402 200SX all models ’77 thru 79 647 200SX all models ’80 thru ’83 228 525 206

563

679 123

B-210 all models ’73 thru '78 210 all models ’78 thru ’82 240Z, 260Z & 280Z Coupe & 2+2

'70 thru '78

280ZX Coupe & 2+2 79 thru 83

300ZX — see NISSAN (1137) 310 all models ’78 thru ’82

510 & PL521 Pick-up 68 thru 73

430

510 all models '78 thru ’81

372

610 all models '72 thru ’76

277 376 124 368

620 Series Pick-up all models ’73 thru ’79 720 Series Pick-up — see NISSAN Pick-ups (771)

810/Maxima all gasoline models ‘77 thru ’84

*654 357

231

649 *1670

*1026 “1421 “1418 1338

*723

699 236 610

*1668 234

*1140 *545 *912 “1726

*1779

*349

FIAT 094

Aerostar Mini-vans all models ‘86 thru '92 Bronco and Pick-ups '73 thru ‘79 Bronco and Pick-ups 80 thru '91 Courier Pick-up all models '72 thru '82 Escort & Mercury Lynx all models

81 thru ’90

Escort & Mercury Tracer all models

'91 thru ’93 Explorer & Mazda Navajo '91 thru '92 Fairmont & Mercury Zephyr all in-line & V8 models ’78 thru ’83 Fiesta all models '77 thru '80 Ford & Mercury Full-size,

Ford LTD Crown Victoria & Mercury Gran Marquis (’83 thru '87) Granada & Mercury Monarch all in-line, 6 cyl & V8 models '75 thru '80 Ford & Mercury Mid-size,

Ford Thunderbird & Mercury Cougar (75 thru '82); Ford LTD & Mercury Marquis (’83 thru '86); Ford Torino, Gran Torino, Elite, Ranchero pickup, LTD Il, Mercury Montego, Comet, XR-7 & Lincoln Versailles (75 thru '86) Mustang & Mercury Capri all models including Turbo ’79 thru 92 Mustang V8 all models '64-1/2 thru ’73 Mustang Il all 4 cyl, V6 & V8 models '74 thru '78 Pinto & Mercury Bobcat all models '75 thru '80 Probe all models '89 thru '92 Ranger & Bronco Il all gasoline models ’83 thru '92 Taurus & Mercury Sable ’86 thru '92 Tempo & Mercury Topaz all gasoline models '84 thru ’91 Thunderbird & Mercury Cougar/XR7 '83 thru ’88 Thunderbird & Mercury Cougar '89 and '90 Vans all V8 Econoline models '69 thru '91

1200 all models ’70 thru '73 F10 all models '76 thru '79

*1725 *344

Pulsar — see NISSAN (876) Sentra — see NISSAN (982) Stanza — see NISSAN (981)

GENERAL MOTORS *829

DODGE *1231

Strada all models ’79 thru ’82 X1/9 all models 74 thru ’80

Ford LTD & Mercury Marquis (75 thru '82); Ford Custom 500, Country Squire, Crown Victoria & Mercury Colony Park (’75 thru ’87);

CHRYSLER

*556

Astro & GMC Safari Mini-vans

479

Biscayne, Bel Air & Wagons, all V6 &

models,

CADILLAC *751

Full-size Sedans Caprice, Impala, V8 models '69 thru '90 Lumina — see GENERAL MOTORS (1671) Lumina APV — see GENERAL MOTORS (2035) Luv Pick-up all 2WD & 4WD models '72 thru ’82 Monte Carlo all V6, V8 & Turbo models ’70 thru ’88 Nova all V8 models ’69 thru ’79 Nova and Geo Prizm all front wheel drive

Aries & Plymouth Reliant all models ’81 thru ’89 Caravan & Plymouth Voyager Mini-Vans all models ’84 thru ’91 Challenger & Plymouth Saporro all models ’78 thru '83 Colt all models '71 thru ’77 Colt & Plymouth Champ (front wheel drive) all models '78 thru ’87 D50/Ram 50/Plymouth Arrow Pick-ups & Raider ’79 thru ’91 Dakota Pick-up all models '87 thru ’90 Dart & Plymouth Valiant all 6 cyl models ’67 thru 76

Daytona & Chrysler Laser

*766

Pontiac J-2000, Oldsmobile

Firenza, Buick Skyhawk & Cadillac *1420 *1671

*2035

Spirit & Plymouth Acclaim '89 thru '92

Cimarron all models '82 thru ’92 N-Cars — Buick Somerset 85 thru '87; Pontiac Grand Am and Oldsmobile Calais "85 thru ’91; Buick Skylark '86 thru ’91

GM: Buick Regal, Chevrolet Lumina, Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme, Pontiac Grand Prix, all front wheel drive models '88 thru '90 GM: Chevrolet Lumina APV, Oldsmobile Silhouette, Pontiac Trans Sport '90 thru ‘92

GEO

all models ’84 thru ’89 Omni & Plymouth Horizon all models ’78 thru '90 Pick-ups all full-size models '74 thru ’91

Shadow & Plymouth Sundance ’87 thru '91

A-Cars — Chevrolet Celebrity, Buick Century, Pontiac 6000 & Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera all models '82 thru ’90 J-Cars — Chevrolet Cavalier,

Metro — see CHEVROLET Sprint (1727) Prizm — see CHEVROLET Nova (1642) Tracker — see SUZUKI Samurai (1626)

GMC

Vans — Dodge & Plymouth V8 & 6 cyl models ’71 thru ’91

Safari — see CHEVROLET ASTRO (1477) Vans & Pick-ups — see CHEVROLET (420, 831, 345, 1664)

124 Sport Coupe & Spider ’68 thru '78

(continued on next page)

* Listings shown with an asterisk ( * )indicate model coverage as of this printing. These titles will be periodically updated to include later model years — consult your Haynes dealer for more information.

Haynes North America, Inc., 861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, CA 91320 e (805) 498-6703

HAYNES AUTOMOTIVE

MANUALS

(continued from previous page)

NOTE: New manuals are added to this list on a periodic basis. If you do not see a listing for your vehicle, consult your local Haynes dealer for the latest product information.

HONDA 351 *1221

Accord CVCC all models '76 thru '83 Accord all models '84 thru '89

160 633

Civic 1200 all models '73 thru '79 Civic 1300 & 1500 CVCC all models 80 thru '83 Civic 1500 CVCC all models '75 thru '79 Civic all models '84 thru ’91 Prelude CVCC all models '79 thru '89

297 *1227 *601

HYUNDAI *1552

"1341 *771

*876 *982 *981

658

Cutlass Ciera — see GENERAL. MOTORS A-Cars (829) Cutlass Supreme — see GENERAL MOTORS (1671) Firenza — see GENERAL MOTORS J-Cars (766) Ninety-eight — see BUICK Full-size (1551 Omega — see PONTIAC Phoenix & Omega (551) Silhouette — see GENERAL MOTORS (2035)

JAGUAR XJ6 all 6 cyl models '68 thru '86 XJ12 & XJS all 12 cyl models '72 thru 85

JEEP Cherokee, Comanche & Wagoneer Limited all models '84 thru '91 CuJall models '49 thru '86 +Wrangler all models '87 thru '92

412 "1777

LADA *413

PEUGEOT 663

648

370 757

*2047

PLYMOUTH

*267 460

*1419

626 Sedan & Coupe (rear wheel drive) all models '79 thru '82 626 & MX-6 (front wheel drive) all models ’83 thru ’91 GLC Hatchback (rear wheel drive) all models '77 thru '83 GLC (front wheel drive) all models 81 thru '86 MPV ’89 thru '93 Navajo — see FORD Explorer (2021) Pick-ups ’72 thru 92 RX-7 all models '79 thru ’85 RX-7 all models '86 thru '91

PONTIAC

“867

MERCEDES-BENZ *1643

190 Series all four-cylinder gasoline models, '84 thru '88 230, 250 & 280 Sedan, Coupe & Roadster all 6 cyl sohc models ’68 thru '72 280 123 Series all gasoline models

346 983

551

698

350 & 450 Sedan, Coupe & Roadster all models ’71 thru '80 Diesel 123 Series 200D, 220D,

697

240D, 240TD, 300D, 300CD, 300TD, 4- & 5-cyl incl. Turbo '76 thru '85 MERCURY For all PLYMOUTH titles see FORD Listing

MG 111

MGB Roadster & GT Coupe all models 62 thru ’80 MG Midget & Austin Healey Sprite Roadster '58 thru ’80

265

Cordia, Tredia, Galant, Precis &

*2022

Mirage ’83 thru '90 Pick-ups & Montero '83 thru ’91

MORRIS 074 (Austin) Marina 1.8 all models ’71 thru 80 024

Minor 1000 sedan & wagon '56 thru '71

1137

3002ZX all Turbo & non-Turbo models '84 thru '89

Firebird all V8 models except Turbo '70 thru 81

Firebird all models '82 thru '91 Full-size Rear Wheel Drive — see Buick, Oldsmobile, Pontiac Full-size (1551) Grand Prix — see GENERAL MOTORS (1671)

Phoenix & Oldsmobile Omega

PORSCHE *264 239 397 "1027

911 all except 914 all 924 all 944 all

Coupe & Targa models Turbo & Carrera 465 thru '89 4 cyl models '69 thru '76 models including Turbo '76 thru '82 models including Turbo '83 thru '89

RENAULT 141 079

097 768 081

5 Le Car all models '76 thru 83 8 & 10 all models with 58.4 cu in engines '62 thru '72 12 Saloon & Estate all models 1289 cc engines '70 thru ’80 15 & 17 all models '73 thru'79 16 all models 89.7 cu in & 95.5 cu in engines 65 thru ’72 Alliance & Encore — see AMC (934)

SAAB 247 “980

99 all models including Turbo '69 thru '80 900 all models including Turbo '79 thru '88

SUBARU 237

NISSAN

Fiero all models ’84 thru '88

all X-car models ’80 thru '84

MITSUBISHI *1669

T1000 — see CHEVROLET Chevette (449) J-2000 — see GENERAL MOTORS J-Cars (766) 6000 — see GENERAL MOTORS A-Cars (829)

Trans ape — see GENERAL MOTORS (2035)

‘77 thru '81

*681

*1626

Samurai/Sidekick and Geo Tracker all models '86 thru ’91

TOYOTA *1023 150

Camry all models ’83 thru ’91 Carina Sedan all models ’71 thru ’74

*2038 935 *1139 361

Celica Front Wheel Drive '86 thru ’92 Celica Rear Wheel Drive ’71 thru 85 Celica Supra '79 thru 92 Corolla all models '75 thru '79

961

*1025

*636 230 360 *532 313

200 *1339 304 *656

Corolla all models (rear wheel drive) ’80 thru '87

Corolla all models (front wheel drive) '84 thru ’91 Corolla Tercel all models '80 thru '82

Corona & MK Il all 4 cyl sohc

models ’69 thru '74 Corona all models '74 thru ’82 Cressida all models '78 thru 82 Land Cruiser all models '68 thru ’82

MK Il all 6 cyl models '72 thru 76 MR2 all models ’85 thru '87 Pick-up all models '69 thru ’78 Pick-up all models '79 thru 92

TRIUMPH

For all PLYMOUTH titles, see DODGE listing.

1232 555

SUZUKI

504 all diesel models '74 thru ’83

1200, 1300. 1500 & 1600 all models including Riva ’74 thru ’86

MAZDA 1082

Cutlass all standard gasoline V6 & V8 models ’74 thru '88

Trooper & Pick-up, all gasoline models '81 thru’91

*1553

Sentra all models '82 thru '90 Stanza all models '82 thru '90 Custom Cruiser — see BUICK Full-size (1551)

ISUZU

*242 *478

Pick-ups/Pathfinder gas models

’80 thru ’91 Pulsar all models '83 thru '86

OLDSMOBILE

Excel all models '86 thru '91

*1641

Maxima all models '85 thru '91

1100, 1300, 1400 & 1600 all models ’71 thru '79 1600 & 1800 2WD & 4WD all models '80 thru '’89

112 113 322

GT6 & Vitesse all models '62 thru 74 Spitfire all models '62 thru ’81 TR7 all models '75 thru '81

159

Beetle & Karmann Ghia all models '54 thru '79 Dasher all gasoline models '74 thru ‘81 Rabbit, Jetta, Scirocco, & Pick-up all gasoline models '74 thru '91 & Convertible ’80 thru '91 Rabbit, Jetta & Pick-up all diesel models '77 thru ’84 Transporter 1600 all models '68 thru '79

238 *884

451 082 226

084 1029

Transporter 1700, 1800 & 2000 all models ’72 thru 79

Type 3 1500 & 1600 all models 63 thru ’7 Vanagon all air-cooled models '80 thru ‘8.

VOLVO 203 129 *270

400 *1550

120, 130 Series & 1800 Sports '61 thru’ 140 Series all models '66 thru '74 240 Series all models '74 thru ’90

260 Series all models '75 thru '’82 740 & 760 Series all models '82 thru 88

SPECIAL MANUALS 1479 1654 1480

1762 1736 1667 1763 482 1666 299 393 300

Automotive Body Repair & Painting Manual Automotive Electrical Manual Automotive Heating & Air Conditioning Manual Chevrolet Engine Overhaul Manual Diesel Engine Repair Manual Emission Control Manual Ford Engine Overhaul Manual Fuel Injection Manual Small Engine Repair Manual SU Carburetors thru '88 Weber Carburetors thru '79 Zensen CD Carburetors thru ’76

See your dealer for other available titles

* Listings shown with an asterisk ( * ) indicate model coverage as of this printing. These titles will be periodically updated to include later model years — consult your Haynes dealer for more information.

Haynes North America, Inc., 861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, CA 91320

Over 100 Haynes motorcycle manuals

also available

(805) 498-6703

1

Dodge Caravan & Plymouth Voyager mini-vans 1984 thru 1993 Does notirfclude 4WD information

Step-by-step procedures linked to hundreds of easy-to-follow photos Written from ‘‘hands-on”’ experience ... using common tools Quick and easy troubleshooting sections Detailed wiring diagrams Color spark plug diagnosis

wu). 3834

ISBN 1 56392 080 8