Haynes Vauxhall Victor FD, FE & VX Series Owners Handbook/Servicing Manual 0856964166, 9780856964169

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Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2023 with funding from Kahle/Austin Foundation

https://archive.org/details/vauxhallvictorfd0000stra

Vauxhall

Victor FD, FE & VX series All UK models from 1969: Victor FD Victor FE VX 4/90, VX 1800

and FD 2000, 1969 — 72 1800 and 2300, 1972 —- 76 FD (1969 — 72) and FE (1972 —77) and 2300, 1976 onwards

New VX 4/90, 1977 onwards

Owner's Handbook/Servicing Guide

by Peter G Strasman TEPID wy "IgA (Sy. M 3

s e

wel =)

=

ABCDE

46042550!

Acknowledgements

Thanks are due in particular to Vauxhall Motors Limited for the use of certain illustrations and technical material in this Handbook, and to Bruce Gilmour

and

Gerald

Tyson

who

made

their

cars

available for photography. The author and publishers would also like to thank all

those people at Sparkford who helped to produce the book; Castrol Ltd for advice on lubrication, and the Champion Sparking Plug Co for analysis of spark plug conditions.

A book in the Haynes Owner's Handbook/Servicing Guide Series. Edited by Robin Wager

© Haynes Publishing Group 1979 Published and printed by the Haynes Publishing Group, Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ

ISBN 0 085696 416 6 Although every care has been taken to ensure the correctness of data used, it must be borne in mind that alterations and design changes can occur within the production run of a model without specific reclassification. No liability can be accepted for damage, loss or injury caused by 2 errors or omissions in the information given.

Contents What's in it for You?

5

About this Handbook

The Victor Family

7

Main production dates and changes

Road Test Data

12

Performance figures from Autocar

In the Driving Seat

iL:

Instruments, controls, layout

Filling Station Facts

21

Garage forecourt guide to tyre pressures etc.

QUICK-CHECK

CHART

=

=

aa

s

24

Fill-up data at-a-glance

In an Emergency

25

Get-you-home kit, wheel changing, towing, light bulb renewal

Save It!

34

Cutting motoring costs — safely

Vital Statistics

39

Technical data on all models

Tools for the Job

53

Getting equipped — what to buy

Service Scene

56

What to do, when, and how to do it

Body Beautiful

84

Cleaning, renovating, repairing bodywork

The Personal Touch

91

Adding accessories

Troubleshooting

101

Charts to help when things go wrong

Car Jargon Explained

114

‘What are they talking about... ?’

Conversion Factors

oz

‘What's that in pounds per square inch ...?’

Index

124

is 71)

What's in it for You? Whether you've bought this book yourself or had it given to you, the idea was probably the same in either case — to help you get the best out of your Vauxhall Victor or VX model, and perhaps to make

your motoring a bit less of a drain on your hardearned cash at the same time. Garage labour charges can easily be several times your own hourly rate of pay, and usually form the main part of any servicing bill; we'll help you avoid them by carrying out the routine services yourself. Even if you don’t want to do the regular servicing and prefer to leave t to your Vauxhall dealer, there are some things you should check regularly just to make sure that your car's not a danger to you or to anyone else on the road; we tell you what they are. If you're about to start doing your own servicing (whether to cut costs or to be sure that it’s done properly) we think you'll find the procedures described give an easy-to-follow introduction to what can be a very satisfying way of spending a few hours of your spare time. We've included some tips that should save you some

money

when

buying

replacement

parts

even while you're driving; there’s a chapter cleaning and renovating your car, and another fitting accessories.

and

on on

Apart from the things every owner needs to know

to deal with mishaps like a puncture or a blown light bulb, we've put together some Troubleshooter Charts to cover the more likely of the problems that can crop up with even the most carefully maintained car sooner or later. There’s also a set of conversion tables and a comprehensive alphabetical index to help you find your way round the book. If the bug gets you, and you're keen to tackle some

of the more

advanced

repair jobs on your car,

then you'll need our Owner's Workshop Manual for your particular model. These manuals give a step-bystep guide to all the repair and overhaul tasks, with plenty of illustrations to make things even clearer.

5

FD Se rljes orS Ss9S Y ~ ly

=

FE Series Victor 1800 Saloon

The Victor Family The FD series Victor was introduced in October 1967 and continued in production until February 1972. The only part of it similar to the preceding FC series was the gearbox, in 3 speed or 4 speed form. A completely new 4 cylinder, overhead camshaft, five bearing engine was used, and the suspension system was completely redesigned compared with earlier cars. The body styling changed completely and the ‘Coke-bottle’ line was introduced at the waist — reflecting a similar style used on the HB series Viva which had been introduced a year earlier. Dual headlamps were also a new and distinctive exterior feature.

On the 1975 cc engined model (originally called the Victor 2000), power-assisted disc brakes were fitted and interior trim was more luxurious than on the smaller model. Estate car versions were introduced in May 1968, and in October 1969 the models were redesignated Super. In October 1969 the new version of the VX 4/90 was announced. This was in effect a more luxurious and somewhat ‘hotter’ version of the 2000 SL. Options of automatic transmission with the 1975 cc engine, 4 speed gearbox, overdrive (with 4 speed gearbox), and power-assisted front disc brakes have been available since this range of vehicles was introduced. The series FE Vauxhall was introduced in February 1972, as the successor to the existing FD series. Although mechanically similar to its predecessor, the bodywork is entirely redesigned. All models in the FE range use the same basic body. Striking in its appearance, this body design has a very low waistline, combined with deep side windows, ‘sculptured’ body panels (including the

original Vauxhall flutes on the bonnet) and some very attractive colour schemes.

Mechanically, the FE series Victor is basically conventional, having a four cylinder water cooled engine, mounted at the front driving the rear wheels via a four-speed synchromesh gearbox, propeller shaft and live rear axle. Suspension is independent at the front, using double wishbones, coil springs and telescopic shock absorbers, while at the rear a live axle is used, together with coil springs, parallel links and a Panhard rod system. Braking is by a hydraulic system operating disc brakes at the front and drum brakes at the rear; servo assistance is provided. Steering is by rack and pinion.

In March 1976 the whole FE range was redesignated VX and was given mechanical and cosmetic changes, and in October of the following year a revised VX 4/90 model was introduced in the UK.

Models other than the VX 4/90 continue to be available in either Saloon or Estate form.

The landmarks series.

following

is

a

summary

in the production

of the

of

the

main

FD, FE and VX

RO tor ween 9

VX 4/90 Saloon (1973, FE Series)

Victor 2300 SL Estate (FE Series)

yom

De

VX 2300 GLS (1977)

GAGA

Interior of the

ORR

1975 Victor 2300

VICTOR FAMILY Victor FD October 1967

Saloon version introduced with 1599cc or 1975cc capacity engine and three-speed manual gearbox standard. Optional four speed gearbox, overdrive or Borg Warner automatic transmission (1975cc only).

May 1968

Estate version introduted.

October

1969

Models re-designated ‘Super’. Alternator as standard equipment. Revised VX 4/90 announced with four speed gearbox, overdrive and twin carburettor engine as standard. GM automatic transmission now offered as an option instead of Borg Warner type.

September 1971

Rear suspension modified.

January 1972

Model

‘iscontinued.

Victor FE February

1972

Saloon and Estate models introduced, with 1759 engine and four-speed

gearbox

standard.

GM

automatic

transmission

optional.

SL saloon and Estate with 2279cc engine. Optional overdrive and automatic transmission. VX 4/90 saloon with 2279cc twin-carburettor engine, four-speed gearbox and overdrive standard. Optional automatic transmission. February 1976

Models discontinued.

New VX Series March 1976

September 1976

New models launched to replace previous FE Series. Modified engine, gearbox and rear axle. Saloon and Estate versions (1759cc and 2279cc engines) designated VX 1800 and 2300. Automatic transmission optional.

GLS model available, with 2279cc engine and power steering standard. Automatic transmission optional.

October 1977

New VX 490 announced with twin-carburettor 2279cc engine and 5-speed manual gearbox.

11

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In the Driving Seat Having found out a few details of production history, let's have a look at some of the more important things you'll need to know from the driving seat. The layout of all these models is pretty straightfoward for the experienced motorist, but a little information on one or two things may be useful if you’re not familiar with the car.

Instruments and controls The accompanying illustrations show typical instrument panel layouts used on the various models during the production run. In general, they're selfexplanatory, but the following points may be useful if you've recently acquired a model or are borrowing one temporarily.

Ignition warning light This serves the dual purpose of reminding the driver that the ignition circuit is switched on (even though the engine may not be running), as well as acting as a no-charge indicator. It should light up when the ignition is switched on, and may also be on when the engine is idling, but should go out at any engine speed above idling. If this doesn’t happen, you've probably got a problem on your hands which needs pretty urgent attention.

Oil pressure warning light This light should only be on when the i, iition is

switched on, and should go out as soon as the engine is running. If it doesn’t go out within a second or so of start-up, it suggests that a considerable degree of wear exists somewhere in the engine mechanism, or (less likely) that some of the oilways are blocked. These faults can be lived with for a while, but expect

problems in the not too distant future! If the warning light comes on while you're travelling, switch off the

engine immediately. \t could be a duff switch, but more likely you're out of oil and that’s serious. If you can't find the cause, get expert assistance — but don't drive the car.

Oil pressure gauge This is fitted to VX4/90 and NEW series VX GLS and 490 indication

basic

models to provide a more accurate of engine oil pressure in addition to the warning light. At an engine speed of

approximately

3000

rev/min

the oil pressure

should

be between 45 and 55 Ib/in® for an engine in good condition. At idling speed with a hot engine do not expect the gauge to indicate more than a few pounds — this is normal.

Tachometer This instrument records the engine speed by means of electrical impulses and is useful as a means of preventing over-revving of the engine in the intermediate gears.

Switches The switches mounted on the instrument panel are of rocker or push-button type. A combinet multifunction switch is located on the end of a stalk on the steering column, and this controls the direction indicators horn and headlamp beams. A second stalk

13

Instrument panel and controls — Victor FD Series showing alternative floor and steering column gearchange

Heater control Ventilation booster fan switch Ventilation control Windscreen wiper/washer control Direction indicator warning light, left-hand Main beam warning light Temperature warning light Fuel gauge /gnition warning light Oil pressure warning light Speedometer Direction indicator warning light, right-hand Main lighting switch Fresh air vent control

/gnition/starter switch Choke control Handbrake lever Direction indicator/headlamp

flasher/headlamp dipper/horn push contro/ Bonnet release

/nstrument panel and controls — Victor FE Series 1 Ashtray 2 Panel light switch 3 Petro/ gauge 4/gnition and oil warning lights 5 Temperature gauge 6 Turn signal warning lights 7 Speedometer 8 Choke contro! 9 Windscreen washers (manual) 10 Facelevel ventilator 11 Ventilation fan switch 12 Ventilation air control 13 Heat control 14 Bonnet release knob 15 Combined headlight beam, headlight flasher, turn signal and horn switch 16 Steering lock safety button 17 Windscreen wiper switch and where fitted, electric screenwasher switch 18 Position for cigarette

lighter (accessory)

19 Gear lever — manual gearbox 20 Radio (accessory)

Mi OR, Guy Oh 25

20 *% 9 8

17

/nstrument panel and controls — later VX 4/90

1 Selector lever — automatic transmission 2 Cigarette lighter 3 Heater controls 4.Heated rear window switch 5 Ashtray 6 Battery condition meter 7 Electric clock 8 Oil pressure gauge 9 Tachometer 10 Ignition and oil warning lights 11 Turn signal warning lights 12 Speedometer 13 Main beam warning light 14 Petrol gauge 15 Temperature gauge 16 Face-level ventilation 17 Bonnet release knob 18 Combined headlight beam, headlight flasher, turn signal and horn switch 19 Instrument panel light switch 20 Speedometer trip reset knob 21 Driving lights switch 22 Ventilation booster switch 23 Windscreen wiper and screenwash control level 24 Radio (where fitted) 25 Brake pedal 26 Accelerator pedal

Instrument panel and controls — early 1 Face-level ventilator 2 Glovebox lock 3 Oil pressure gauge

VX 4/90 4Ammeter

5 Water temperature gauge

6 Fuel gauge 7 Fuel low-level warning light 8 Ignition warning light 9 Tachometer 10 Speedometer 11 Oil warning light 12 Combined headlight beam, headlight flasher, direction indicator and horn switch 13 Steering lock and ignition/starter switch 14 Brake warning light (where fitted) 15 Cigarette lighter 16 Air control lever 17 Choke contro! 18 Two-speed heater fan switch 19 Temperature control 20 Gearchange lever and overdrive switch 21 Main lighting switch 22 Fog light switch (accessory) 23 Windscreen wiper switch 24 Electric screenwasher contro/

/nstrument panel and controls — New VX Series 1800 and 2300 1 Clock (except VX 1800 models) 2 Parking lamps tell-tale lamp 3 Left-hand turn signal warning lamp 4 Headlamp main beam warning lamp 5 Fuel gauge 6 Handbrake and brake pressure warning lamp 7 Speedometer 8 Right-hand turn signal warning lamp 9 Ignition warning lamp 10 Face level ventilator 11 Hazard warning lamp 12 Combined headlamp beam, headlamp flasher, turn signal and horn switch 13 Driving/instrument/interior lamps switch 14 Foglamps switch (where installed) 15 Hazard warning switch 16 Oil warning lamp 17 Temperature gauge 18 Windshield wiper and wash switch 19 Cigar lighter 20 Air booster fan switch 21 Heater contro! panel 22 Heated back window switch 23 Gearshift lever 24 Front ashtray 25 Parking brake lever 26 Clutch pedal 27 Brake pedal 28 Steering column lock 29 Accelerator pedal 30 Bonnet latch control

ACCESSORIES, —*

IGNITION ~

iS _ START

Steering column lock positions (FD Series)

IN THE DRIVING SEAT switch on the opposite side operates the washers and

wipers on later models.

Steering column lock This is combined with the ignition/starter switch. To operate the radio or to steer the car when the engine’s not running, turn the key to the ACC

(accessories) position. Once the ignition key is withdrawn, the steering column automatically locks, but not necessarily fully engaging the lock tongue until the steering wheel has been turned in one direction or the other. Never switch off the ignition as a means of ‘coasting’ to save fuel, as the steering can lock with disastrous results! On later models, a safety button must first be depressed before the key can be turned to the lock position. If you should ever have the misfortune to lose your steering lock key, or any door key for that matter,

you'll find yourself with a problem on your hands. For security reasons there are no numbers on the lock barrels, so unless you know the key number you'll never be able to buy a replacement. Even if you do know the numbers they may not be ‘over the counter’ replacements so, to reduce problems to a minimum, the very least you can do is to record the key numbers somewhere. Why not do it now, in the back of this Handbook?

Overdrive If the car’s equipped with an overdrive, this is controlled by a slide switch incorporated in the gear lever knob. The device operates only in top and third gears, and provides six forward speed ratios altogether in conjunction with the four speeds of the manual gearbox. Changes into overdrive 3rd, and top should not

Instrument panel and controls — N ew VX Series 2300 GLS and 4/90

1 Clock 2 Temperature gauge 3 Left-hand turn signal warning lamp 4 Tachometer 5 Oil warning lamp 6 Parking brake and brake pressure warning lamp 7 Speedometer 8 Right-hand turn signal warning lamp 9 Fuel gauge 10 Face level ventilator 11 Battery condition meter 12 Combined headlamp beam, headlamp flasher, turn signal and horn switch

13 Foglamps switch 14 Hazard warning switch 15 Trip recorder knob 16 Headlamp main beam warning lamp 17 Ignition warning lamp 18 Choke control (VX 490 only) 19 Cigar lighter 20 Oil pressure gauge 21 Windshield wiper and wash switch 22 Air booster fan switch 23 Heater control panel 24 Heated back window switch 25 Gearshift lever 26 Ashtray 27 Parking brake lever 28 Steering column lock 29 Clutch pedal 30 Brake pedal 31 Accelerator pedal 32 Bonnet latch control 33 Driving/instrument/interior lamps switch

IN THE DRIVING SEAT be

made

at

speeds

below

22

mph

or

30

mph

respectively, nor should a change down be made into normal 3rd gear at road speeds in excess of 70 mph. Engagement or disengagement of overdrive is carried out simply by moving the switch

inoperative, rearward — engaged).

(forward —

No depression of

the clutch pedal is required but the accelerator pedal should be partially depressed at the moment of moving the switch. Normal engine braking is available whether the overdrive is engaged or not. Should the device not disengage at any time, avoid reversing the car until the problem’s been sorted out, as severe damage could result to the transmission.

Automatic transmission




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VITAL STATISTICS Carburettor No 3203 Main jet

7

Compensating jet Idling jet Pump jet Carburettor No 3326 Main jet

90

130 45 55 90

Compensating jet

125

Idling jet Pump jet Part throttle air bleed

50 50 2.8mm

Zenith/Stromberg 175-CD-2S/ST No 3269 Metering needle Float level

2AM 15.5 to 16.5 mm above carburettor inverted Blue 1.75mm 1.60 mm thick 700 to 750 rev/min

Air valve spring colour Needle valve Needle valve washer Engine idling speed Zenith/Stromberg Metering needle Float level

175-CD-2SETV-Nos 3354 and 3355 B2 AP 16.0 to 16.5 mm above carburettor inverted

Auto cold start device needle (manual)

(auto) Fast idle cam Fast idle cam (gap) setting

JK B or B2 B2 0.002 to 0.008 in

B

0.022 to 0.018 in

700 to 750 rev/min

Zenith/Stromberg 175CD-2S — No 3438 Metering needle Air valve spring colour

1BJ Red

Engine idling speed

725 to 775 rev/min

Zenith 361V — Nos 3415/3416/3518 Choke tube

29 mm (No 3518-25

Main jet

105 (No 3518 - 85)

Compensating jet Idling jet

120 50 (No 3518 — 45)

Pump jet Needle valve Needle valve washer thickness Float level

55 1.75 mm

2.0 mm 30.5 to 31.5 mm

mm)

above face of cover gasket, cover

inverted

Engine idling speed

725 to 775 rev/min

Zenith/Stromberg 175CD-2S — Nos 3411/3412/3411B Metering needle

B1BM (VX 4/90 — BIBU)

Jet orifice Air valve spring colour

2.54 mm Red

Fast idle cam (manual)

WD

Cold start needle

main body flange surface,

J7

Engine idle speed

(auto)

main body flange surface,

(VX 4/90)

C4

A6 (VX 4/90)

M1

K(VX 4/90)

VITAL STATISTICS 1.75 mm 1.6mm

Needle valve Needle valve washer thickness

15.5 to 16.5 mm

Float level setting

above face of main body flange —

gasket removed carburettor inverted

725 to 775 rev/min

Engine idle speed

Zenith 361VE — Nos 3583B and 3584B Choke tube Main jet (manual)

25mm

85 75

(auto) Compensating jet (manual) (auto)

115

125 47 to 53 (selective)

Idling jet Pump jet Part throttle air bleed Needle valve Needle valve washer thickness

Float level setting

30.5 to 31.5 mm inverted

Engine idling speed

725 to 775 rev/min

above face of cover gasket, cover

Zenith/Stromberg 175CD-2SE —No 3592B and 175CD-2SET — No 3593B Metering needle (manual) Bi.Gy; (auto) B1CU Jet orifice Air valve spring identification Fast idle cam (manual)

2.54 mm Red

D C5 M1

(auto) Cold start needle Needle valve Needle valve washer thickness Float level setting

2mm 1.6 mm 16.0 to 17.0 mm above face of main body, gasket removed, carburettor inverted

725 to 775 rev/min

Engine idling speed

Zenith/Stromberg

175CD-2SE — No 3599B and 175CD-2SET — No 3600B

Metering needle Jet orifice Air valve spring colour

A1DC 2.54 mm

Fast idle cam (manual)

D nM, 3M 2.0mm

Blue

(auto) Cold start needle Needle valve Needle valve washer thickness Float level setting

1.6 mm 16.0 to 17.0 mm above face of body, gasket removed, carburettor inverted

775 to 825 rev/min

Engine idling speed

Zenith/Stromberg 175CD-2SE — 175CD-2SET 175CD-2SE — 175CD-2SET

Nos 3844B/3934B — Nos 3845B/3935B Nos 3846B/3936B — Nos 3847B/3937B

Metering needle

B1EF (1759cc) B1EG (2279cc)

Jet orifice

2.6 mm Blue

44 Air valve spring colour

VITAL STATISTICS Fast idle cam Cold start needle

C5 P2 (1759cc)

P3 (2279cc) Needle valve

Needle valve washer thickness

2.0 mm 1.6 mm

Float level setting

16.0 to 17.0 mm above face of main body, gasket removed, carburettor inverted

Engine idling speed

725 to 775 rev/min

Zenith/Stromberg 175CD-2SE —No 3906B Metering needle Jet orifice Air valve spring colour Fast idle cam Needle valve Needle valve washer thickness Float level setting

BiER 2.54 mm Blue D 2.0mm 1.6 mm 16.0 to 17.0 mm

above face of main body, gasket

removed, carburettor inverted

Engine idling speed

IGNITION

775 to 825 rev/min

SYSTEM

System type

12V battery,coil and distributor

Distributor 1967 to Make Rotation

1974 Delco-Remy D300 Anti-clockwise

1-3-4-2 (new points) 0.022 in (0.5588 mm) (used points) 0.020 in (0.5080 mm) 35° to 37° Dwell angle 9°BTDC* Static advance * Some 1599cc engines have static advance setting of 18°BTDC. These engines can be identified by the two Firing sequence

Contact points gap

grooves located round the front end of the camshaft just behind the drive pulley. conjunction with these distributors.

A modified carburettor is fitted in

1975 onwards

Distributor data and timing details are the same as for earlier models except for the cam dwell angle which has been increased to 49 to 51°. This alteration commences with the following engine numbers: No 3263015 1759cc 2279cc

Coil

No 3262950 Delco-Remy oil-filled

Spark plugs FD Series — Standard High speed Electrode gap FE Series — 1759cc engine 2279cc engine Electrode gap New VX Series Electrode gap

CLUTCH Type

AC 42TS AC 41T

0.030 in (0.7620 mm) AC 41TS AC 42TS 0.030 in (0.7620 mm) AC 41-5TS

0.040 in (1.00 mm)

Single dry plate, diaphragm spring, cable actuation

45

VITAL STATISTICS * On

the new

VX Series models, release arm

free movement

is not apparent as a torsion spring keeps the

same release bearing in constant contact with the release fingers. Adjust to maintain the clutch pedal at the height as the footbrake pedal.

Diameter FD Series

1599cc engine 1925cc engine FE Series and new VX Series

7.5 or 8.0 in (190.5 to 203.2 mm) 8.0 or 8.5 in (203.2 to 215.9 mm) 8.03 in or 8.5 in (204 or 216 mm) 8.44 in (214.4 mm)

Victor/1800/2300 VX 4/90 (VX490)

MANUAL TRANSMISSION Type, Ratios, Oil Capacity FD Series 3 speed synchromesh: Ratios 1st 2nd 3rd Reverse

1599cc Size M6741

4 speed synchromesh: Ratios 1st 2nd 3rd

1975cc 2.897 :1 Uelar/nl 34

eet

ee |

3.064 : 1

3.064 : 1

1599cc SCE ZAASi 1 1.413 :1

1975cc 2.786 : 1 1.981 :1 14131

4th

heal!

ee

Reverse

3.064 : 1 ealigea OMe 2.1 pints (1.2 litres) 2.5 pints (1.4 litres)

3.064: 1

Overdrive 3rd 4th Oil capacity (3 speed) (4 speed) (with overdrive)

3.0 pints (1.7 litres)

FE Series to 1974 4 speed synchromesh and reverse: 1st

2nd 3rd

4th Reverse Overdrive 3rd Overdrive 4th Oil capacity (with overdrive)

FE Series 1974 to

46

4 speed synchromesh: Ratios 1st 2nd 3rd 4th Reverse

Ratios Seay 2.141: 1 1SO2Zci1 eal 3.064 : 1

1.100:

1

OF 781

2.4 pints (1.4 litres) 3.1 pints (1.8 litres)

1976 1759cc 31611 2.3424

2279cc cHeyl Sil SO le

1.54 :1 1.00: 1

Stent 1.00 : 1

3.064 : 1

3.064 :1

VITAL STATISTICS Oil capacity

2.5 pints (1.42 litres)

New VX Series 1976 onwards 4 or 5 speed (VX 4/90) synchromesh: Ratios 1st 2nd

3rd

1800 and 2300 3.607 : 1

VX 4/90 Brodie

2.345

:1

Pig (She |

1.545 :1 1.00: 1

1.58 :1 1.24: 1

4th 5th

-

1.00 :1

Reverse

3.350): 1

4.00 : 1

Oil capacity

2.5 pints (1.42 litres)

Lubricant type

(all transmissions) 9OEP

Overdrive Type

Laycock-de Normanville Type J

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION Type (1967 to 1969)

Borg-Warner 35

Ratios: 1st

273921

2nd 3rd Reverse Oil capacity

1.45 :1 al

Type (1970 onwards) Ratios: 1st 2nd 3rd Reverse

Oil capacity

PROPELLER SHAFT Type (1967 to 1973)

2,097

11 pints (6.3 litres)

GM 2.4:1 1.48 :1 ee |

1.92:1 9.0 pints (5.1 litres)

Hardy Spicer or BRD, tubular with needle bearing universal joints at both ends

Type (1974 onwards)

Two sections with flexible centre bearing and constant velocity joint

REAR AXLE Type

Semi-floating hypoid

Oil capacity FD and FE Series except VX 4/90 VX 4/90 (to 1973)

2.5 pints (1.42 litres) 2.75 pints (1.56 litres)

VX 4/90 (1974 on)

2.5 pints (1.42 litres)

New VX Series (1976 on): 1800 models

3.6 pints (2.0 litres)

2300 and 4/90 models

5.0 pints (2.9 litres)

VITAL STATISTICS

BRAKING

SYSTEM

Type FD Series (All models except SL)

(SLmodels) FE and New VX Series

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM System type

Four wheel hydraulic drum, dual circuit. 9 in (228.6 mm) diameter drums. Handbrake mechanical on rear wheels Disc front with servo assitance Four wheel hydraulic, disc front, drum rear, servo assistance. Pressure regulating valve on some models. Handbrake mechanical on rear wheels

12V negative earth

Battery FD Series

FE Series and VX 4/90 New VX Series (except 2300 GLS) 2300 GLS Generator FD Series FE and New VX Series

38 amp/hr at 20 hr rate 44 amp/hr at 20 hr rate 40 amp/hr at 20 hr rate

55 amp/hr at 20 hr rate Lucas C40 dynamo, or Lucas or Delco alternator Lucas or Delco alternators

Starter motor

Lucas inertia or pre-engaged

Windscreen wiper motor

Delco Remy

Fuses FD Series No1 35amp No2 35 amp

No3 No4

35 amp 35amp

FE Series No1 35amp

Windscreen wipers, cigar lighter, radio Stop lamps, direction indicator lamps, fuel and temperature gauges, heater fan, reversing lamps, overdrive Horn, interior lamp, map reading lamp Instrument lamps, rear lamps, number plate lamps, fog lamp, cigar lighter lamp Horns, front interior lamp, headlamp flasher, electric clock, hazard warning lamps

No2

35 amp

Stoplamps, direction indicator lamps, oil and ignition

warning lamps, voltage stabiliser, fuel and temperature gauges, heater fan motor, reversing lamps, heated rear

No3 No4

35amp 35 amp

New VX Series

window, tachometer, battery condition meter, overdrive circuit Windscreen wipers, screenwasher, radio, cigar lighter Instrument lamps, side and rear lamps, rear number plate, fog lamps, luggage compartment lamp, interior

lamp (Estate)

Fuses similar to FE Series except No 2 circuit fuse rating increased to 50 amp. Never use this capacity fuse by mistake in any other circuit

Bulbs FD Series Headlamp (inner)

(outer) Sidelamps

48 Stop/tail

37.5 Watt sealed beam

50/37.5 Watt sealed beam 6 Watt centre contact

6/21 Watt offset pin

VITAL STATISTICS Direction indicator

21 Watt centre contact 6 Watt centre contact 10 Watt festoon

Rear number plate Interior lamp

Reversing lamp Luggage boot Fog lamp Indicator and warning lamps Instrument lamps

Cigar lighter Auto transmission selector FE Series

Headlamps (Victor) (VX 4/90) inner main outer Sideiamps

21 Watt festoon 6 Watt centre contact 55 Watt quartz iodine 1.5 Watt wedge base capless 5 Watt wedge base capless 2.2 Watt centre contact 2 Watt peanut

75/60 Watts 45 Watts

75/60 Watts 5 Watts wedge base capless

Stop/tail

5/21 offset pin

Direction indicator Side repeater Rear number plate Reverse lamp Fog lamp Interior lamp Speedometer

21 Watts centre contact 5 Watts festoon 4 Watts wedge base capless 21 Watts festoon 55 Watts quartz halogen 10 Watts festoon 5 Watts wedge base capless 5 Watts wedge base capless

Tachometer lamp (VX 4/90) Temperature and fuel gauge lamps: Victor

VX 4/90 Ignition warning Direction indicator

5 Watts wedge base capless 3 Watts wedge base capless 3 Watts wedge base capless

3 Watts wedge base capless

Oil pressure warning

3 Watts wedge base capless

Oil pressure gauge (VX 4/90) Clock (VX 4/90)

3 3 3 3

Battery condition meter (VX 4/90) Heater controls

Brake pressure warning Main beam warning Choke control Windshie!d wash control Automatic transmission selector Heated rear window warning lamp Clock (Victor) Cigar lighter Lighting switch New VX Series

Headlamp (except GLS) (GLS inner) (GLS outer) Sidelamp (except GLS) (GLS)

Stop/tail Direction indicator Fog

Rear number plate Interior Warning and indicator lamps: Direction indicator

Watts wedge base capless Watts wedge base capless Watts wedge base capless Watts wedge base capless 1.5 Watts wedge base capless 1.5 Watts wedge base capless 1.5 Watts wedge base capless 1.5 Watts peanut 2 Watts peanut 2 Watts peanut 2 Watts peanut 2 Watts centre contact 3 Watts 24V centre contact

60/55 Watts quartz-halogen H4 55 Watts quartz-halogen H1

60/55 Watts quartz-halogen H4 4 Watts miniature centre contact 5 Watts wedge base capless 21/5 Watts offset pin 21 Watts centre contact 55 Watts quartz-halogen H3 5 Watts wedge base capless 10 Watts festoon

3 Watts wedge base capless

af/

VITAL STATISTICS Main beam warning Oil pressure Handbrake Ignition warning Heated rear window Hazard warning switch Heater fan switch Fog lamp switch Clock Heater controls Auto transmission selector Lamp switch Cigar lighter Luggage boot lamp

SUSPENSION AND Front suspension

3 Watts wedge base capless 3 Watts wedge base capless 3 Watts wedge base capless 3 Watts wedge base capless 0.65 Watts Lilliput Edison screw 0.65 Watts Lilliput Edison screw 0.65 Watts Lilliput Edison screw 0.65 Watts Lilliput Edison screw 2 Watts peanut 2 Watts peanut 2 Watts peanut 0.03 Amp wedge base capless 2.2 Watts minature centre contact 5 Watts bayonet

STEERING

Type

Rear suspension

Type

Independent upper and lower wishbone coil springs, telescopic shock absorbers. Stabiliser bar on later models Coil springs, with four parallel links at Panhard rod. Telescopic shock absorbers. Stabiliser bar on FE Series

SL and 4/90 models and all New VX Series

Steering Type

Turning circle (manual)

(power) Oil capacity (rack and pinion housing) Steering angles: FD Series Castor angle Camber angle King pin inclination Front wheel alignment FE Series Castor angle Camber angle King pin inclination Front wheel alignment New VX Series Castor angle Camber angle King pin inclination Front wheel alignment

Rack and pinion. Power steering standard on New VX 2300 GLS model 35.4 ft Si7Mett

0.25 pint (0.17

litre)

2° 30' to 4° positive 0° to 2° 30’ positive

52S

ntooe Zoe

0.04 in toe-in to 0.004 in toe-out (1.02 mm toe-in to

1.02 mm toe-out) 1° to 3° negative 0° 30’ positive to 1° negative

TOAD tO19? 1S: 0.14 to 0.22 in (3.5 to 5.5 mm) toe-in at wheel rims. O° 15’ negative to 1° 45’ negative 0° 45’ positive to 0° 45’ negative

72 Osto9 20) 0.02 to 0.18 in (0.5 to 4.5 mm)

Tyres and tyre pressures Refer to Filling Station Facts

DIMENSIONS AND WEIGHTS FD Series Overall length Overall width

Height (laden) 50 Ground clearance

176.6 in (4486 mm) 66.9 in (1699 mm) 52.5 in (1334 mm)

6.0 in (152 mm)

FILLING STATION FACTS Wheelbase Track (front) Track (rear)

102.0 in (2591 mm) 54.0 in (1372 mm) 54.0 in (1372 mm)

Kerb weights (approx)*:

Saloon (1599cc engine) (19756éc engine) Estate (1599cc engine) (1975cc engine)

2320 2350 2460 2490

Ib Ib Ib Ib

(1052 (1066 (1116 (1129

kg) kg) kg) kg)

If equipped with Borg Warner automatic transmission, add 64 |b (29.0 kg). If equipped with GM Powerglide auto-

matic transmission, add 39 |b (18 kg)

FE Series (to 1973) Overall length Overall width

Height (iaden)

179.3 in (4554 mm) 66.9 in (1699 mm)

52.5 in to 54.3 in (1333 mm to 1379 mm) according to tyre size

Wheelbase Track (front):

VX 4/90 Estate All other models Track (rear): VX 4/90 Estate All other models

Kerb weights (approx)*: Saloon (1759cc) (2279cc) Estate (1759cc) (2279cc)

4/390

105 in (2667 mm) 56.4 in (1433 mm) 56.2 in (1427 mm) 55.1 (1400 mm) 55.4 in (1407 mm)

2495 Ib (1132 2520 Ib (1143 2585 Ib (1173 2610 Ib (1184 2635 Ib (1195

kg) kg) kg) kg) kg)

* For models equipped with automatic transmission, add 60 Ib (27 kg).

FE Series (1974 to 1976) Overall length Overall width Height (laden)

179.3 in (4554 mm) 66.9 in (1699 mm) 52.5 to 54.3 in (1333 to 1379 mm) depending on

Wheelbase

model and tyres 105 in (2667 mm)

Track (front): Victor

56.2 in (1427 mm)

VX 4/90

56.3 in (1430 mm)

Track (rear): Victor

VX 4/90 Kerb weights (approx)*: Victor Saloon (1759cc) (?779cc) Victor Estate \1 /59cc) (2279cc)

VX 4/90 Saloon

55.4 in (1407 mm) 55.1 in (1400 mm)

2499 2552 2589 2642 2627

Ib (1133 Ib (1158 Ib (1174 Ib (1198 Ib (1192

kg) kg) kg) kg) kg)

* For vehicles equipped with automatic transmission, add 55 |b (25 kg)

New VX Series (1976 on) Overall length Overall width: VX 2300 GLS Estate Other models

180 in (4572 mm) 67.6 in (1717 mm) 66.9 in (1699 mm)

51

FILLING STATION FACTS Height (laden) Wheelbase

Track (front) Track (rear): Saloon and Estate (1759cc) (2279cc) VX 2300 GLS and VX 4/90 Saloons VX 2300 GLS Estate Kerb weights (approx)*: Saloon (1759cc) (2279cc)

Estate (1759cc) (2279cc) VX 4/90 Saloon

52.2 to 53.3 in (1326 to 1354 mm) depending on model and tyres

104.8 in (2662 mm) 56.2 in (1427 mm)

55.4 55.4 55.1 56.3

in in in in

(1407 (1407 (1400 (1430

2569 Ib (1166 2604 Ib (1180 2658 Ib (1206 2689 Ib (1220 2745 Ib (1245 2779|b (1260 2866 Ib (1300

VX 2300 GLS Saloon VX 2300 GLS Estate * For models equipped with automatic transmission, add 55 /b (25 kg).

52

mm) mm) mm) mm)

kg) kg) kg) kg) kg) kg) kg)

Tools for the Job For anyone intending to tackle car servicing, a selection of good down-to-earth tools is a basic requirement. The initial outlay, even though it may appear to be something approaching the national defence budget, could well be less than the labour charges for one full service; on top of this, you should be paying less for the oil and replacement parts by getting them yourself so, provided you've two or three hours to spare, you must be on to a winner.

The tools supplied with the vehicle allow you to change a road wheel and that’s about all. The absolute minimum tool kit you'll need to carry out any sort of maintenance and servicing will be a range of spanners and two screwdrivers (one for Phillips type screws) also a pair of pliers. On vehicles built up to 1976 nuts and bolts with Unified threads were used, and for these AF spanners will be required. Later vehicles gradually incorporate more and more nuts and bolts to metric sizes, and both AF and metric spanners will be needed for these

Identification

later vehicles. With a bit of luck and ingenuity the items mentioned so far should get you through the routine servicing jobs, but they won't do much else. A small but important point when buying tools is the quality. You don’t have to buy the very best in the shop but, on the other hand, the cheapest probably aren't much good. Have a word with the manager or proprietor if you're in doubt, he'll tell you what's good value for money. It's very difficult to tell you exactly what you're

Maker's name

Circular depression

Grade marking Grade

METRIC

BOLT

UNC/UNF

Nut identification diagram

BOLT

TOOLS FOR THE JOB going to need, but the list below should be a great help in building up a good tool kit. Combination

spanners (ring one end, open-ended the other) are recommended because, although more expensive than

double

open-ended

ones,

they

give

the

advantages of both types). Combination spanners to cover the range } to 1 in AF, and metric sizes 7 mm to 24 mm Adjustable spanner — 9 inch

Spark Spark Set of Brake

plug spanner (with rubber insert) plug gap adjustment tool feeler gauges adjuster spanner (7 in AF, square)

Screwdriver— 4 in blade x in dia (plain) Screwdriver— 4 in blade x { in dia (crosshead)

Combination open ended/ring spanner

Pliers — 6 inch Junior hacksaw Tyre pump Tyre pressure gauge Grease gun Oil can Fine emery cloth or oilstone

Wire brush (small) Funnel (medium size) Hydraulic jack or strong scissor type Pair of axle stands (concrete or wooden blocks will do if you're careful about choosing them) Hose brush You may find that a pair of metal ramps is a very useful investment, providing an alternative to the jack or axle stands when you want to get at the underside of the car but don’t need to remove the wheel(s). Most ramps available give a lift of between 9 inches and 1 ft and you can, of course, drive either the front or back end of the car on to them — but you'll still need to apply the handbrake and chock the other wheel(s) for safety’s sake. Hopefully, your attempts at car servicing are going to show you that it can all be worthwhile, and having worked your way through the various jobs listed in the Service Schedules you'll be able to see that there are many others which can be done without becoming a mechanical wizard. For this purpose, Haynes publish first class Owner's Workshop Manuals for the Vauxhall range which detail just about every operation that can conceivably be done on these cars. It'll mean buying a few more tools, but you'll save yourself still more money and get a good job done in the process. While we're talking about tools, it’s worth mentioning some of the tune-up aids that are on the market. A visit to a good motor accessory shop can be an enlightening experience, just to show you the sort

Adjustable wrench

of things available. Later in this book, you'll find a bit about ‘bolt-on goodies’, but all we'll concern 54 ourselves with here are three items.

Set of feeler blades

TOOLS FOR THE JOB

Stee/ ramp

Stroboscopic timing light The

most

accurate

way

Statistics. of checking

ignition

timing (that’s the time at which the spark occurs) is with the engine running, and for this a stroboscopic (strobe) light is used. This is connected to No. 1 spark plug lead and the beam is shone on to the crankshaft pulley mark. Any proprietary light should be supplied with full connecting and operating instructions.

Two other useful items are a hydrometer, which is used for checking the specific gravity of the battery electrolyte (this will tell you if you have a dud cell

which won't hold a charge), and a 12-volt lamp on an extension lead with crocodile clips which connected to the battery terminals.

can

be

Care of your tools

Dwell angle meter This is used for measuring the period of time for which the distributor points remain closed during the ignition cycle of one cylinder, and provides a more accurate method of setting-up the ignition than can be done by simply setting the points gap. Dwell angle meters

normally

incorporate

counter if you prefer), which checking engine idle speed.

a

tachometer

can

be

useful

(rev

for

Cylinder compression gauge This is very useful for tracing the cause of a falloff in engine performance. It consists of a pressure gauge and non-return valve, and is simply screwed into a spark plug hole while the engine is turned over on the starter. Compression figures are given in Vita/

Having bought a reasonable set of tools and equipment, it’s the easiest thing in the world to abuse them. After use, always wipe off any dirt and grease using a clean, dry cloth before putting them away. Never leave them lying around after they've been

used. A simple rack on the garage wall, for things you don’t need to carry in the car, is a good idea. Keep ali your spanners and the like in a metal box — you can wrap some rags around them to stop them rattling if you’re going to carry them in the boot of the car. Any gauges and meters should be carefully put away so that they don’t get damaged or rusty. Do take a little care over maintaining your tools too. Screwdriver blades, for example, inevitably lose their keen edges, and a little timely attention with a file or oilstone won't go amiss.

55

Service Scene We've now discussed some of the more important features of your car, and also given some thought to equally important things like tools, money saving and so on. Now to the nitty-gritty of servicing — perhaps the very thing you've dreaded for so long? It’s not as difficult or mysterious as you think...

The Vauxhall

models

are an up-to-date

design

which,

if it means

nothing

advantage of fairly widely spaced service intervals and a general reduction in attention. This has developed from the increased use of sealed-for-life bearings, lubricant technology, and a reduction in the number of moving parts (which tends car will go on forever without any regular attention because half the bits don’t exist

It’s still important to carry out servicing and inspections at regular intervals the keep the car safe, to prolong its active life, and to maintain a sensible resale value. The old maxim of prevention rather than cure was never truer than in connection with car servicing. Whether it be casting your eagle eye over the general workings of the car or getting down to the service tasks in a workmanlike (or workwomanlike)

more

to you, does offer the

the number of items requiring nylon bushes, better metal and to make some people think the any more!}).

don't use the car regularly enough to clock up the scheduled mileage until well after the time interval that’s quoted as an alternative guide, always use the time intervals as your basis for servicing. You'll see that we've included Spring and Autumn check-ups, too, just so that you can make sure your car's as fit as possible for the season ahead.

fashion, it’s all going to be worthwhile in the long run.

Safety

Remember that a worn part won't put itself right and isn't a thing to be lived with. Fix it as soon as you find

Accidents do happen, but 99% of them can be prevented by taking a little care. We're going to list a

it, even if it’s not time for the next service.

few points which should reduce any accident risk, and we'd like you to read through them before starting work — it could prove to be very worthwhile. DON’T run the engine in the garage with the doors closed — exhaust fumes are highly poisonous.

In this Chapter, we've tried to present the servicing tasks in a logical way to minimize the amount of jacking up, etc, which may be a prelude to the actual job. The items listed are basically those recommended by the car manufacturers, but are supplemented by some additional ones which we think are well worth the extra trouble.

If you've recently bought the car, the safest thing is to go right through all the Service Schedules (not on the same day, of course!) unless you can really satisfy yourself that the previous Owner was as

56 meticulous about things as you'd like to be. If you

DON’T work in an inspection pit with the engine running — the fumes will tend to concentrate at the lowest point.

DO keep long hair, sleeves, ties and the like well clear of any rotating parts when the engine’s running. DON'T grab hold of ignition HT leads when the engine’s running — there’s just the possibility of an electric shock (not fatal but unpleasant), particularly if

5

Lubrication Chart No. and Component

Lubricant type

7 Engine

Multigrade 20W/50

2 Front hubs

Multipurpose grease (high melting-point)

3 Brake master cylinder

Hydraulic brake fluid (SAE J1 703)

4 Carburettor damper(s)

Engine oil

5 Rear axle

Hypoid gear oil, SAE 90 EP

6 Manual gearbox

Hypoid 90 EP

7 Automatic gearbox

ATF (Dexron)

8 Power steering 9 Front suspension balljoints (FD Series only) 10 Distributor

ATF (Dexron) Multi-purpose grease Engine oil (also grease foam pad on new VX models)

On FD models only, the dynamo rear bearing should be lubricated with engine oil at the specified intervals.

SERVICE SCENE the leads are dirty or wet. DO chock the rear wheels when jacking up the front of the car, and vice versa. Where possible, also apply the handbrake and engage first or reverse gear. DON'T rely on the car jack when you're working underneath. Axle stands, or wooden or concrete blocks should be used, placed under the front crossmember, bodyframe side members or rear axle. DO wipe up oil or grease from the floor if you spill any (and you will do, sooner or later).

DO get someone to check regularly that everything's OK if you're likely to be spending some time underneath the car. DON’T use a file or similar tool without a handle. The tang can give you a nasty gash if something goes

wrong. DO make sure when you're using a spanner that it's the right size for the nut and that it’s properly fitted before tightening or loosening. DO brush away any drilling swarf with an old paintbrush — never your fingers. DON’T allow battery acid or battery terminal corrosion to contact the skin or clothes. If it should happen, wash off immediately with plenty of cold running water. DON’T rush any job — that’s how mistakes are made. If you don’t think you'll finish the job in time, do it tomorrow, but try not to make this an excuse for

forgetting about it. DO take care when pouring out brake fluid. If it isn’t removed and the paintwork spills on immediately, it'll take the paint off. And wash your hands well afterwards as it’s poisonous.

SERVICE SCHEDULES WEEKLY, BEFORE A LONG JOURNEY, EVERY 250 MILES (400 KM)

OR

The following items are likely to be required: Tyre pressure gauge, engine oil, distilled water, clean tap water, windscreen washer solvent, automatic transmission fluid (where applicable).

1.

Check engine oil level (car on level ground)

Preferably check the engine oil level first thing in the morning before starting the engine. If this isn’t convenient, always wait for ten minutes after switching off the engine to allow the circulating oil to drain back into the sump, otherwise a false reading will be obtained. The dipstick’s located on the right-hand side of the engine. Withdraw the dipstick, wipe it clean on a lint-free cloth and then re-insert it fully, withdraw it again and read off the oil level indicated. It's not necessary to keep the oil level up to the ‘FULL’ mark; anywhere between the ‘ADD OIL’ and 58 ‘FULL’ marks will do, but always keep it from going

below the ‘ADD OIL’ mark by the addition of clean oil

of the correct grade. If an oil filter change is approaching, the oil level can be allowed to drop to near the ‘ADD OIL’ mark in the period just before the change is due as an economy measure. Pour the oil in carefully through the filler cap which is located on the rocker cover. Mop up any oil spilt, then replace the cap and re-check the oil level. The necessity for frequent topping up with engine oil will indicate a leak, or wear in the cylinder bores

but the latter is unlikely mileage has been covered.

2.

to happen ;

until

a high

Check engine coolant level

The coolant level in the radiator should preferably be checked when the engine's cold. If it must be checked when the engine’s hot never remove the cap without taking the following precautions. Place a cloth over the radiator cap and turn the cap very slowly in an anti-clockwise direction until it comes up against its first stop. Steam under pressure will then start to escape. When the hissing stops, depress the cap slightly and continue turning it to remove it.

The coolant level should be 1 in (25 mm) below the bottom of the filler neck. Top up if necessary with

clean water. Regular topping up shouldn't be required, otherwise there’s probably a leak in the cooling system or the engine’s overheating. If more than a cupful of water is required for topping up, add some antifreeze to the water to maintain the strength of the original coolant mixture. Never pour large quantities of cold water into a hot engine — it could cause the castings to crack or distort.

3.

Check battery electrolyte level

The battery's located under the bonnet on the right-hand side. First wipe away any dirt or moisture from

inside.

the top of the

Remove

battery

so that

none

can

get

the caps or cover from the battery

cells, and check the electrolyte level (with some types

of battery you can see the fluid level through the battery case). Add distilled water to bring the level just above the tops of the battery plates; with some batteries, distilled water is added to the trough until all the rectangular filling slots are full and the bottom of the trough’s just covered. If for some reason you've got no distilled water you can use the frost which collects on the walls of

the freezer or fridge, and allow this to melt; if you're really desperate, and as a last resort only, boil some tap water in the kettle then allow it to cool, don’t make a habit of using this or the battery suffer in the long run. Refit the cell caps or cover, carefully wiping

up but will

up

SERVICE SCENE any drops of water that were spilt, then check that the terminals are tight. A very light smear of petroleum jelly (Vaseline) can be applied to these to help prevent any corrosion. If the weather's extremely cold, run the engine for a few minutes; this will charge the battery and mix the electrolyte which will prevent the added water from freezing. Never bring naked lights or flames near a battery even with the vent caps or covers in position, as any escaping hydrogen gas can be explosive! Never place tools or spanners on top of the battery, they may short-circuit the terminals which is damaging to the cells and will shorten the life of the unit. Keep the terminal screws tight.

4. ak

Checking

battery electrolyte level

Topup windscreen washer fluid reservoir Pull the cap from the washer reservoir and top up

oe

as necessary with clean water. The addition of a good quality solvent will keep the glass free from smears

and also prevent the washer fluid freezing in winter. Preferably add the solvent to the water after the reservoir has been filled, as many products tend to foam if they're put in first and then the water poured

in. Never use cooling system antifreeze in the washer reservoir as it will remove the paint from the car bodywork.

5.

Check tyre pressures and tread condition With

the tyres cold, check

their pressures

(see

Filling Station Facts). |f possible, use your own gauge — those at garages tend to be abused by everyone (except you and us) and they're not renowned for

their accuracy. Don't forget the spare wheel; the pressure here should be up to the maximum ever likely to be needed, as you can always let some air out if necessary when the wheel is used. With the tyres properly inflated, run your hands

and eyes over the tyre walls and tread. This is best done with the wheel off the ground so that it can be rotated but, if you're really not feeling up to it, move the car backwards or forwards a foot or two, so that you can check all round. The tread depth must not be less than 1 mm over at least three-quarters of the width, and around the full circumference. You can buy

gauges for checking this, but a 2p piece inserted in the tread groove is a good guide. If the tread’s not deeper than the distance from the row of dots to the edge of the coil, you're breaking the law, so get some

Checking tyre condition

replacements pretty quickly. There must also be no cuts, bulges or other deformities; if these are present, you're also breaking the law. If you've got to buy new tyres, read the bit in Save /t/ but remember that it’s illegal to fit a radial and a crossply tyre on the same axle (i.e at the same end of the car) and that radials mustn't be fitted on

the front if you've got crossplies on the back.

SERVICE SCENE

6.

Check that all the lights work

Switch on the car lights and check that they’re all working correctly. Don’t forget to include the direction indicators and brake lights, either by getting someone to watch while you operate them or by looking for the teli-tale reflection on the garage wall or adjacent car. (Shop windows can provide a useful check on brake lights — try it next time you're parking in the High Street). If any bulb needs renewing, you'll

find the secret of how to get at it revealed in /n an Emergency. And while you're checking the lights, it makes

sense to see that the lenses are clean, front and rear.

transmission

Check automatic 7. (where applicable)

fluid level

This operation’s really a safety check, as in practice the automatic transmission requires very little topping up. However, loss of fluid through a leak or a faulty oil seal can prove very expensive if not detected immediately — hence the weekly check. It’s best to check the fluid level when the car has come in from a run and the fluid’s at operating temperature. Place the car on a level surface, with engine idling and selector lever at ‘N’. Make sure that the handbrake’s fully applied. The transmission dipstick’s attached to the filler cap and located under the bonnet on the right-hand side of the engine. Wipe any dirt from the area around the guide tube opening before withdrawing the dipstick. Now take out the dipstick, wipe it clean on a lint-free cloth, insert it fully and withdraw it for the second time. The fluid level should be between the

‘ADD OIL’ and ‘FULL’ marks. Top up if necessary using only the recommended

fluid. One pint (0.6 litre) is required to raise the fluid level from the ‘ADD OIL’ mark to the ‘FULL’ mark. Never use any type transmission fluid.

8.

of additive

in the

automatic

Relax

That's the first of the regular Service Schedules successfully completed!

EVERY 6000 MILES (10000 KM) OR 6 MONTHS, WHICHEVER COMES FIRST (in addition to the items covered in the

Weekly/250 mile Schedule) The following items are likely to be required: Light oil, hydraulic brake fluid, automatic transmission

fluid, contact breaker points, engine oil

and new filter, gear oil. Rear brake adjusting spanner (earlier models), spanners, Allen keys, feeler blades, test bulb or stroboscopic timing light.

Check 1. 60 blades

condition

of

windscreen

wiper

With time, wiper blades deteriorate. They're affected by oil and fumes which collect on the windscreen, and the wiping action deteriorates. Renewal is the only answer when this occurs, and it's a straightforward operation. Pull the wiper arm away from the windscreen and draw the blade out of the socket with a gentle outward curving pull. The end of the arm is inserted into the blade holder and the blade swivelled to lock

the two together. If the arm itself has to be renewed, release the spring clip using a small screwdriver, then pull the end fitting from the splined (grooved) shaft. Refitting’s straightforward, but don't forget to check the sweep action and reposition the arm on the splines if necessary. A very light smear on the splines will help you remove the arm more easily next time.

2.

Lubricate locks, catches and controls Apply a drop or two of oil to all the moving and

contact points of the door hinges and locks, bonnet hinges, lock and safety catch, and boot or tailgate hinges and lock. Wipe off any surplus as it collects dirt and marks the paintwork if it’s left to run. Lubricate the lock barrels by applying a little oil to the key and inserting it two or three times. Wipe the key and lock barrel afterwards to remove any surplus. Smear a little general purpose grease to the lock contact points of the striker plates on the door pillars. Again, wipe off the surplus now with a rag — not on your best suit later on! Apply a few drops of oil to the door check link pivot pins.

Apply a drop or two of oil to the control linkage and pivot points of the carburettor(s). There are several different set-ups, so you'll need to check exactly what you've got on your car but generally speaking if it moves, lubricate it. Also apply a drop to the accelerator pedal pivot.

3. Check that door and body drain holes are clear If you find you need the car raised for this job, combine it with one of the later jacking-up tasks. Get a piece of stiff wire and make sure that all the door and body drain holes are clear of mud, leaves, underseal etc. This is an important job because any debris will help to retain moisture and cause a rust problem inside the hollow sections.

4.

Check roadwhee! nuts for tightness

Don't jack the vehicle up for this job, simply remove the hub cap or embellishers (where fitted) and check each unit in sequence. Have the handbrake fully applied. If you possess a torque wrench, the correct

setting for wheel

nuts is 48 Ibf ft (65 Nm); if you

SERVICE SCENE

Splined drive

Checking brake master cylinder fluid level (FD model

shown)

Power steering reservoir and filler cap/dipstick

61

SERVICE SCENE don't, just tighten them firmly, but without going red in the face or standing on the end of the brace! Remember, you may have to loosen them again on a wet dark night if you have a puncture.

5. Check brake master cylinder reservoir fluid level Open the bonnet and wipe any dirt from around

the reservoir filler cap. The design of the master cylinder varies according to date of production of the vehicle, but all assemblies are mounted on the engine compartment rear bulkhead (cars without servo) or on the front face of the servo unit (with servo assistance). Unscrew and rernove the cap. On early models with a single type hydraulic

circuit and master cylinder, the fluid level should be 4 in (6 mm) below the top edge of the filler neck.

Alternator mounting and adjuster link bolts

On later models with a dual hydraulic circuit and tandem master cylinder, the fluid level should be just below the bottom of the filler neck. Use only clean brake fluid of specified type for topping up — nothing else. Brake fluid has a tendency to absorb moisture and should therefore always be stored in an airtight tin. Never shake the tin before pouring it into the reservoir as this could introduce air bubbles into the hydraulic system and affect braking performance. Check that the small vent hole in the reservoir cap is clear, probing it if necessary with a piece of wire, before refitting it.

6.

Check power steering pump reservoir fluid

level (New VX 2300 GLS only) The power steering pump’s

located at the front

Power steering pump mounting and adjuster link bolts

SERVICE SCENE right-hand side of the engine. Unscrew and remove the combined filler cap and dipstick and read off the

fluid level (engine not running). If the fluid’s hot to the hand then the level should be between the HOT (1) and COLD (2) marks. If the fluid’s cold, then the level should be between the ‘ADD’ (3) and the ‘COLD’ (2) marks. Top up as necessary with automatic transmission fluid of the Dexron type.

7.

Checking and adjusting drive belts

The main drive belt runs from the crankshaft pulley to the pulleys on the generator and the water

pump (fan). Examine

the belt for cuts, fraying or general deterioration. If it’s in good condition, check the tension by applying thumb pressure at the mid-point of the belt between the generator and water pump pulley (engine off, of course!). It should be possible to

deflect the belt by about { in (6 mm). If it's too loose or too tight, slacken

remove)

the

generator

mounting

bolts

(but don’t

and

the

adjuster link bolt. Ideally, the bolts should be slackened only enough to permit the generator to be pivoted stiffly. If you use a lever to prise the generator on its mounting, take special care with an alternator to apply pressure only at the pulley end of the unit — never at the centre or rear. Tighten the bolts fully once the tension’s correct. On new VX 2300 GLS vehicles with power steering, a second drive belt is used to drive the pump. The tension of the belt should be checked at the mid-point of the upper run of the belt between the double crankshaft pulley and the pump.

The deflection

in this case should be > in (12

mm). Where necessary, release the power steering mounting bolts and pivot the pump as necessary.

To renew a belt, release the generator or steering pump and push the unit in as far as possible towards the engine, then slip the belt from the pulleys. If a generator drive belt is to be renewed on a vehicle equipped with power steering then the power steering pump belt will have to be removed first. Never attempt to lever a belt off or on to pulleys without first having released the tension fully. Apart from straining the belt, damage may be caused to the generator or water pump/fan bearings, as will also happen if a belt’s adjusted too tightly.

8.

Inspect, clean and re-gap spark plugs

Open the bonnet and check that the high tension leads to the spark plugs are numbered 1-2-3-4. If they're not, mark them starting with No 1 at the radiator end of the engine. Special numbered sleeves can be purchased for this job, but one or more strips of narrow PVC tape bound round each lead are just as

effective to identify them. Once the leads have been identified, pull them from the spark plugs by gripping their rubber end protective covers. Brush away any dirt or grit from around the plugs, then unscrew them in turn using a socket or box plug spanner. Don't let the spanner press against the ceramic upper part of the spark plug or it may crack it. On earlier cars, washers are fitted to the spark plugs but on later types, the plugs have conical seats and washers are not used. For cleaning use a thin wire brush and a penknife blade, but take care not to damage the surface finish of the insulator around the central electrode; this will lead to misfiring. A spare set of plugs makes life easier — you can fit these straight away and clean the ones you've just taken out at your leisure. Should one spark plug appear oily black (instead of the ideal light grey colour) this may indicate a faulty plug which has been misfiring. Have the complete sets of plugs tested on a machine at a suitably equipped garage before wasting any time cleaning them. Wipe the plug insulators with a petrol-moistened cloth, and see that the screw thread is clean. Check the electrode gap using a feeler gauge of the specified thickness (see Vita/ Statistics) and if necessary bend the outer electrode to correct it. Never try to bend the central

electrode

—

all you'll

achieve

is a broken

insulator. When

the plugs are clean and reset, check that the seating on the block is clean. Apply a drop or two

of oil to the plug threads then tighten them

down

firmly — but no white knuckles or bulging cheeks, you've got to get them out again one day! If you possess a torque wrench, the correct

tightening torque for a spark plug, is 15 Ibf ft (20 Nm). Reconnect the leads to the spark plug terminals.

9. Contact renewal

breaker points

— inspection

and

Release the spring clips which hold the distributor cap in position, lift the cap from the distributor and lay it to one side. The spark plug leads need not be disconnected. Extract the two screws and remove the rotor. Prise the spring blade of the moving contact away from the stubs on the terminal insulator and then lift the moving contact from the distributor. Pull out the two spark type terminals from the terminal insulator, extract the screws which hold the fixed contact, and remove the contact. Examine the faces of the contact points. One will probably have a ‘pip’ and the other a ‘crater’. This is normal and if slight, the faces of the points can be rubbed smooth on an oilstone or abrasive paper, but 63

Checking plug gap with feeler gauges

Altering the plug gap. Note us of correct tool.

,

Spark plug maintenance

White deposits and damaged porcelain insulation indicating overheating

Excessive black deposits caused by over-rich mixture or wrong heat value

Broken porcelain insulation due to bent central electrode

Mild white deposits and electrode burnt indicating too weak a fuel mixture

Spark plug electrode conditions

Electrodes burnt away due to

wrong

heat

value

or chronic

pre-ignition (pinking)

Plug in sound condition with light greyish brown deposits

SERVICE SCENE hold the faces quite square. If the points show deep

pitting

or are

badly

burned, they should be renewed as a set. Wipe the distributor baseplate clean and apply a

drop of oil to the moving contact arm pivot post. Wipe the faces of new points (where applicable) with a cloth moistened in fuel or methylated spirit, and install them by reversing the removal process. Reconnect the two low tension wires with the spade terminals to the insulator block. The contact points gap must now be set. To do this the engine must be turned until the heel of the movable contact arm is on one of the high points of the cam. To turn the engine, either engage top gear and push the vehicle forward or use a ring spanner on the crankshaft pulley bolt. (The ignition should be switched off, of course). Only the latter method is possible with vehicles equipped with automatic transmission. Check the points gap with a 0.020 in (0.50 mm) feeler blade. To adjust the gap, slacken the screws

Refitting distributor rotor

which

hold

the

fixed

contact

plate

and

insert

a

screwdriver into the slot at the end of the plate. Using a twisting action, move the plate in either direction until the feeler blade is a sliding fit. Tighten the screws and re-check the gap. Refit the rotor making sure that the round and square dowels engage in their correct holes. On new VX Series vehicles, a foam plastic lubricator is fitted. Work some lithium-based grease into it before fitting the distributor cap. If the lubricator becomes contaminated with dirt, remove it with a pair of needle-nosed pliers (by squeezing the nylon retaining

clip legs together) and renew it. Before installing the distributor cap, examine the /nterior of distributor cap

internal

Sia

contacts

and

the

central

carbon

brush.

lf

re

Checking contact breaker points gap 1 Screwdriver adjustment slot 2 Points securing screws

Removing lubricator pad (later type distributors)

65

SERVICE SCENE these are worn or eroded, renew the cap. Secure the cap with the spring clips. For optimum engine performance, the dwell angle should now be checked on a dwell meter. If you possess one of these, connect it in accordance with the maker's instructions and check that the dwell angle is as specified in Vita/ Statistics. |f the angle’s too large or too small the distributor cap will have to be removed and the points gap readjusted.

10.

Check and adjust the ignition timing

This operation should always be carried out if the contact breaker points have been adjusted or renewed. One of two methods may be used but the use of a stroboscope is to be preferred. Method 1: Remove the distributor cap and the cover from the ignition coil. Disconnect the black/white lead from the negative terminal on the ignition coil. Turn the engine in its normal direction of rotation until the pointer on the crankshaft pulley is opposite the appropriate static ignition timing setting (see Vita/ Statistics) on the engine front cover, No 1 piston being on its compression stroke. To turn the engine, apply a ring spanner or socket to the crankshaft retaining bolt and to verify the compression stroke, remove the spark plug from No 1 cylinder and place a finger over the plug hole. As the engine crankshaft is rotated the compression pressure will be felt. Now connect a test lamp between the end of the black and white lead and the battery positive terminal. Release the distributor mounting clamp bolt and turn the distributor body in either direction until the

test

lamp

illuminates,

then

in

the

opposite

direction until it just goes out. Tighten the clamp bolt, remove the test lamp and reconnect the black and white lead to the coil. Method2: Clean the pointer on the crankshaft pulley and the appropriate static timing mark on the engine front cover, and apply a little chalk or quick-drying white paint to them to make them stand out.

Run the engine to normal operating temperature and then let it idle. Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the distributor and plug the end of the pipe. Connect a

stroboscope

(timing

light) in accordance

with

the

manufacturer's instructions and point the light at the engine front cover. The crankshaft pointer will appear stationary opposite the timing mark on the engine front cover. If it's not in exact alignment with the timing mark, release

the

distributor

clamp

bolt

and

turn

the

distributor until it is. Tighten the clamp bolt, reconnect the vacuum pipe, remove the timing light

66 and switch off the engine.

11.

Clean fuel pump filter

Single carburettor type: Unscrew and remove the screw from the centre of the fuel pump cover. Lift off the cover, the sealing ring and the gauze filter. Wash any dirt from the filter using some clean petrol, and clean out the interior of the cover. Reassembly is a reversal of dismantling. Hold the cover upside down, install the filter (projections inside cover), locate the sealing ring and then place the complete cover assembly on to the pump, making sure that the seal isn’t displaced. Insert and tighten the screw, but only just enough to prevent the cover rotating when twisted with the fingers. Twin carburettor type: The pump has a glass bowl retained by a wire clip. Release the clip by unscrewing the finger nut and pushing the clip aside. Lift off the glass bowl taking care that it doesn’t slip out of your fingers. Lift off the gauze filter and wash it in clean petrol. Clean out any dirt or sludge from the pump interior. Refit the bowl making sure that the sealing gasket’s in good order. Don't overtighten the finger

nut.

12. Check and adjust valve clearances Run the engine to normal operating temperature and then switch it off. Remove the air cleaner. On twin carburettor models disconnect the various hoses from the air cleaner, unbolt the air intake bracket from the intake manifold and lift the complete air intake system from the engine. Disconnect the spark plug leads from the plugs and from the camshaft cover clips. Unscrew and remove the four nuts and four bolts which hold the camshaft cover in position and lift the cover carefully away. If the cover gasket tends to be stuck to the cylinder head, ease it off with a blunt knife blade to prevent it breaking. Counting from the front of the engine, exhaust valves are Nos 1-3-5-7 and inlet valves 2-4-6-8. As inlet and exhaust valves have different clearances, it’s very important that they're correctly identified. Turn the crankshaft by means of a spanner applied to the crankshaft pulley retaining bolt until the first valve is ready for checking. This will be indicated when the cam which operates the valve tappet has its ‘peak’ or ‘sharp end’ furthest away from the tappet. Using a feeler blade of appropriate thickness, insert it between the cam and the tappet. The blade should be

a stiff sliding fit. If adjustment’s

required, rotate the tappet until

the notch in the face of the tappet is in alignment with the slot in the tappet housing. Using either a % in Allen key or the special tool available (VR 2041), turn the adjusting screw, clockwise to decrease the valve clearance or anti-clockwise to increase it.

ete

ee

ok

:

Engine ignition timing marks (turn engine by crankshaft pulley nut, arrowed)

Removing

fuel pump S aie Securing screw

cover

(single carburettor type) eng Me 3 Filter screen 4 Sealing ring

Checking carburettor damper oil level Removing fuel pump glass bowl

1 Air valve

2 Damper

SERVICE SCENE The adjusting screw can only be turned complete revolutions which are indicated by a ‘click’. Each turn of the screw varies the valve clearance by 0.003 in

(0.08 mm). Repeat the operations are

valves

adjusted

on all the valves.

in conformity

If the

with the cylinder

firing order (1-3-4-2) it will save unnecessary rotation of the crankshaft. Never set a valve clearance tighter than that specified. Refit the camshaft cover making sure that the gasket’s in good condition, then install the air cleaner assembly. Check that the spanner has been removed from the crankshaft pulley bolt.

13.

Top up carburettor dampers On

early models remove the air cleaner (three bolts). On later model single carburettor vehicles, remove the three bolts which hold the air intake elbow to the carburettor flange, slacken the oval clip which holds the elbow to the intake pipe, and remove the elbow.

Zenith fixed jet carburettor adjustment details 1 Throttle speed screw 2 Accelerator pump link pin

3 Mixture contro/ screw 4 Choke link rod

On later twin carburettor models, remove the air cleaner assembly as described in the 12 000 mile

Service Schedule. Unscrew the plastic cap from the top of the carburettor and withdraw the damper assembly. Insert a finger into the air intake and lift the air valve.

Check the level of oil in the hollow guide tube and top up if necessary with engine oil to bring it to within =

in (6.0 mm) below the top of the guide tube. When refitting the damper, again raise the air valve and ensure that the collar is seated in the guide tube before screwing down the plastic cap. Install the air cleaner or intake elbow as applicable.

14. Adjusting carburettor slow running Fixed jet carburettors (Zenith 361V and 361VE): Run then (see in or until

the engine to normal operating temperature and set the engine to run at specified idling speed Vita/ Statistics) by turning the throttle stop screw out. Now turn the mixture control screw in or out maximum engine revs are obtained, then turn

the screw

a further 4th of a turn anti-clockwise.

If

necessary readjust the throttle stop screw to bring the idling speed within the range specified.

Early variable jet carburettors (Zenith/Stromberg): On engines fitted with Stromberg 175 CD carburettors the principle of adjustment is the same but the jet adjuster (in place of the mixture control screw) is mounted in the base of the carburettor and if it's altered it means that the performance of the carburettor is altered at all engine speeds — not just tick-over. The basic setting of the jet adjusting screw is two turns open. To check this it’s necessary to remove the

68 air cleaner complete with elbow. Then put a finger in

Early Zenith/Stromberg carburettor adjustment points

1 Jet adjuster nut

2 Throttle speed screw

SERVICE SCENE the air intake to hold down the piston and screw in the jet adjusting screw until it touches the bottom of the piston. Then undo it two complete turns. Refit the air cleaner, run the engine until warm and then set the throttle stop screw to a fast idle speed. Adjust the jet mixture screw until the engine runs evenly. Any adjustment should not exceed + turn in

either direction. If uneven

running is still apparent it

must be caused by something else. Readjust the throttle stop screw to give the specified tick-over speed.

For Throttle stop screw (arrowed) on /ater type Zenith/Stromberg carburettors not having external jet adjuster nut

VX

4/90

models

with

twin

Stromberg

carburettors it’s recommended that they are only adjusted by a knowledgeable mechanic. Later variable jet carburettors (Zenith/

Stromberg): These carburettors are set during production to comply with current emission control regulations

and

have

an

internally

adjustable

jet

which can only be altered by using a special tool. This type of carburettor is recognisable by the omission of the jet adjuster nut at the base of the float bowl which was a feature of earlier models. Any adjustment should therefore be restricted to adjusting the throttle stop screw until the engine idling speed is as specified in Vita/ Statistics (engine at normal operating temperature). On twin installations of these later carburettors,

the idling speed can be adjusted by first turning the throttle stop screw on the front carburettor one half turn and then repeating the operation on the rear unit.

Screw in to increase idling, screw out to decrease.

15. Renew engine oil and filter This job should be done after driving the car in from a long run when the engine oil is thoroughly hot.

Throttle stop screws on later twin Zenith/Stromberg

Place a bowl or other suitable container under the

carburettors

sump and remove the drain plug. While the oil’s draining, unscrew and remove the oil filter cartridge. This may require the use of an oil filter wrench or chain wrench to unscrew it. If all else fails, drive a hefty screwdriver through the filter cartridge about halfway along its length. Once the screwdriver has emerged from the opposite side of the filter cartridge use it as a lever to unscrew the filter.

ges Engine sump drain plug

Clean the flange of the filter mounting and smear the rubber sealing ring of the new filter with a little grease, then screw it on hand tight only, don't tighten it with any sort of wrench. Refit the sump drain plug and tighten it securely. Pour in the specified amount of correct grade of engine oil, start the engine and run it for two or three minutes, then check for leaks from the filter flange. When a new filter is fitted, the oil pressure warning light will stay on for a few seconds while the filter fills

with oil — this is normal. Where an oil pressure gauge 69

Engine oil filter

Nw

Handbrake adjustment (FD Series vehicles) 1 Sleeve

2 Locknut

Handbrake adjustment (FE Series and New VX Series)

1 Locknuts 2 Cable ends

esis

4 Springs 5 Anchor brackets

Checking front wheel hub bearing adjustment

SERVICE SCENE is fitted, no oil pressure will be indicated for a short period for the same reason. .

16.

Check and adjust handbrake /ever travel

Pull the handbrake lever slowly and fully on and count the number of ‘clicks’. The handbrake should be fully on after passing over between 8 and 10 notches. If the travel is excessive, you will have to get under the car and adjust the cables in the following way after fully releasing the handbrake. FD Series vehicles: Adjustment is at the rear of the cable where it connects with the equalizer on the rear axle. Release the locknuts and turn the threaded sleeve until all slack is removed from the cable. Tightness of the cable can be judged by the clevis pin located at the outer ends of the brake rods. If the pins can't be rotated in position then the cable’s too tiaht. FE Series and new VX Series vehicles: Refer to the illustration. Working under the vehicle, disconnect

the springs (4) slacken the locknuts (1) and rotate the sleeves (3) at the same time holding the cable ends

(2) still. With

the handbrake

fully off, adjust the

screws so that slack is removed from the cables but no tension is being applied to the shoe levers at the brake backplates. Normally, adjustment

of the

rear

brakes

(on

earlier vehicles) or the action of the automatic brake shoe adjusters (later vehicles) will automatically keep the handbrake in correct adjustment, but in time the supplementary cable adjustment described may be required due to stretching of the cables.

Sectional view of typical front hub

17.

Check front hub bearing adjustment

Jack up the front of the vehicle so that each front road wheel is free to rotate. Grip the top and bottom of the tyre and try to rock the wheel. If there's anything more than an almost inperceptible amount of end-float, adjust. If the bearings feel rough or sound noisy when the wheel's rotated, have them overhauled by your dealer. Adjustment is carried out in the following way. Chock the rear wheels and apply the handbrake fully. Jack up the front of the vehicle and support it securely on axle stands. Remove the hub caps. Tap off the hub grease cap or prise it off using a wide-bladed screwdriver. Straighten the split pin which is now exposed and extract it. On early FD models, a castellated nut is used, on all later models a plain nut is used in conjunction with a pressed steel nut retainer. Remove the retainer if fitted. Turn the road wheel in the normal forward

direction of travel while at the same time tightening the nut with a box spanner and tommy bar. Stop turning the wheel and release the nut. Now tighten

Final adjustment of a front hub nut

the nut again using only hand pressure (not the tommy bar). Refit the nut retainer (if used) and insert a new split pin, bending the ends of the pin over.

71

SERVICE SCENE

Lockheed disc pad and anti-squeal shim

Disc pads, pin and spring clip (G irling type). One pin has been removed in this photograph

ciara

6d

Disc pad spring retainers (Lockheed)

Disc pad and anti-squeal shim (Girling type). Note arrow on shim pointing upwards

72

Typical clutch cable adjustment

Locknut (1) and adjuster nut (2) on New VX Series clutch cable

SERVICE SCENE _ The nut retainer should be fitted so that the two most suitable slots align with the hole in the stub axle.

Repeat the operations on the opposite refit the grease caps and lower the car.

78.

wheel,

Check disc pad wear

Jack up the front of the vehicle and remove the road wheels, or each in turn. Look through the aperture in the rear of the brake caliper and examine the thickness of the friction material (not including the metal backing plate). If the material on any pad has

worn to a thickness of 0.06 in (1.6 mm) then the disc pads should

be renewed

as an axle set (both front

wheels). Earlier cars have Girling or Lockheed brakes. Pad removal — Lockheed brakes: To remove pads, first bend the ends of the retaining pins flat withdraw the pins. Remove the spring retainers. the projections on the edges of the pads

the and Grip and

withdraw them. As the pads are withdrawn, note the anti-squeal shim which will come out with them.

Pad removal — Girling brakes: Pull out the spring clips and withdraw the pad retaining pins. Withdraw the disc pads and shims. All brakes: Brush away any dust from the opening in the caliper but be careful not to inhale it. The caliper pistons must now be depressed fully into their cylinders to accomodate

the new, thicker, disc pads.

Do this with a flat piece of wood or steel, keeping the pistons square. As the pistons are depressed, hydraulic fluid will be forced back into the master cylinder reservoir causing the level to rise. It’s a wise precaution to draw a little of the fluid out of the reservoir beforehand using an old hydrometer or poultry baster — but don’t try to syphon it out by mouth. Before installing the new pads, check that the disc isn’t deeply scored or covered with oil. If it is, it may require renewal; if oil contamination is discovered, consult your dealer for the tracing and rectification of the source of leakage which may be

their anti-squeal shims against the pad backing plates so that the arrow points upwards. Insert the retaining pins making sure that they pass through the holes in the anti-squeal shim. Fit the spring clips through the holes in the pins. All brakes: Apply the footbrake pedal hard several times to bring the pads into contact with the discs, and then top up the brake master cylinder reservoir with clean hydraulic fluid. 19 Adjust clutch free play

All vehicles except new VX Series: Working under the vehicle, grip the threaded end of the clutch cable and pull it rearwards. Now push the clutch release arm forward gently with finger pressure. Note the distance which the release arm travels along the threaded section of the cable. This should be 0.20 in (5.0mm). It's sometimes easier to gauge the movement if the return spring's temporarily disconnected. If adjustment is needed, release the locknut and turn the adjuster nut as necessary. On completion, tighten the locknut. New VX Series vehicles: On these vehicles, the clutch release bearing’s in constant contact with the clutch diaphragm spring fingers and in consequence no free movement is evident at the release arm. Adjustment in this case is carried out by a locknut and adjuster nut to keep the clutch pedal level with the brake pedal. All models: While you're doing this job it’s a good idea to apply a little engine oil to the moving parts of the clutch operating mechanism.

20.

Check manual transmission oil level

The combined filler/level plug is located on the left-hand side of the transmission and can only be reached from beneath the car. The oil level should be checked with the vehicle standing on level ground and preferably after it has stood overnight to give the lubricant time to drain fully to the bottom of the gearbox. Wipe away any dirt from around the plug, then

due to a faulty hub oil seal or leaking caliper seals.

unscrew

Pad refitting — Lockheed brakes: Where everything appears to be in good order, insert the pads with their anti-squeal shims against the pad backing plates so that the cut-out in the shim is towards the bottom of the pad and the larger lug on the shim locates in the larger of the two slots in the outer edge of the pad backing plate. Install the new split pins supplied with the pads, making sure that they hold the spring retainers in position as they're pushed in. Make sure that the longer leg of each spring retainer is towards the centre of the caliper. Bend over the ends of the longer leg of the retaining pins. Pad refitting — Girling brakes: Insert the pads with

can be removed with an open-ended spanner but on later models which are fitted with a socket-headed plug, an Allen key will be required — 2 in AF for 4speed gearboxes and 17 mm for 5-speed gearboxes. With the plug removed, check that the oil’s up to the bottom of the filler plug hole. Top up if necessary with the specified grade and type of oil. There’s no need to drain the gearbox throughout the life of the unit, as changing the oil is not recommended, except on those vehicles fitted with an overdrive (see 12 O00 mile Service). On earlier cars, the gearbox can be drained for overhaul by removal of a drain plug, but on later models, no drain plug’s fitted

and remove

it. On earlier models, the plug

and the lubricant can only be removed by unbolting

73

SERVICE SCENE

>

* Sl

Oilfiller/level plug (manual gearbox — early model) viewed from below

, Combined filler/level plug on 5 speed gearbox the bottom cover.

21.

Check rear axle oil level

Clean away any dirt from around the combined filler/level plug on the rear cover of the differential casing. Unscrew and remove the filler/level plug. The oil should be up to the bottom of the filler plug

threads with the vehicle standing on level ground and the oil cool. Top up as necessary with the recommended grade and type of oil. The rear axle is ‘filled for life’ but if for any reason

the oil must be drained (such as immersion of the rear axle in flood water) then as a drain plug isn't fitted, the rear cover will have to be unbolted and the oil mopped out. Use a new gasket when installing the rear cover. On later vehicles, the rear axle breather has a ‘Snorkel’ type extension designed to obviate the 74 possibility of water entering the axle casing.

A rear brake adjuster

22. Check front wheel alignment and steering angles Due to the need for special gauges, this is very definitely a job for your dealer. An indication of incorrect front wheel alignment or worn suspension bushes is often given by uneven wear on the front tyres. After any frontal! impact or severe kerbing, always have the front wheel alignment checked out at your dealers.

23.

Check rear brake shoe adjustment

This operation applies only to earlier models (FD and FE Series) fitted with square section adjusters on the rear backplates. On later vehicles the brakes are

self-adjusting

and

no adjusters

are evident

on the

backplate. Chock the front wheels, release the handbrake fully and jack up one of the rear wheels. Using a brake adjusting spanner applied to the square head of the

SERVICE SCENE

FRONT

SPARE

Tyre interchange diagram (Crossply only) adjuster, turn the adjuster clockwise until the drum locks and the road wheel can’t be rotated. Now back off the adjuster one or two notches until the drum is

free.

Don't

confuse

rear axle differential

drag with

brake drag as the road wheel's turned. Repeat the operation on the opposite brake.

24.

Interchange road wheels

to even out tyre

wear This operation serves two purposes: firstly, to even out the tyre tread wear which sometimes occurs

unevenly due to road camber or different suspension characteristics, and secondly, to enable you to examine the tyres more closely (especially the inner

walls) for damage. lf the tyres have been balanced on the vehicle, mark the relative position of each road wheel to the

hub before removing it. (You can easily do this by painting or chalking the end of the wheel stud nearest the tyre valve). Once removed, wash off all dirt and mud from nail, with the

from the wheel and then pick out all the flints the tyre tread. If you’re unlucky enough to find a don’t pull it out until you've circled its position chalk, then when you extract it, if it’s penetrated tyre your garage will know where to find the

puncture.

offset loss of tread since they were originally balanced. Whether you have them balanced on or off the vehicle is a matter of choice — on-car balancing is more efficient, but off the car is less restrictive in that you don’t have to worry about marking the wheels before removing them during repairs and maintenance. Steering vibration or steering wheel judder at certain road speeds is nearly always due to the front wheels being out of balance. In severe cases a tyre tread can be worn away in a very short distance.

EVERY 12 000 MILES (20 000 KM) OR 12 MONTHS, WHICHEVER COMES FIRST (in addition to the items covered in the Weekly

and 6000 miles Schedules) The following items are likely to be required: Air cleaner element, oil (in oil-can), grease. Spanners, cleaning rags, brush, set of new spark plugs.

1.

Renew the air cleaner element

On early single carburettor models without a temperature-controlled air intake on the air cleaner, unscrew the bolt which holds the air cleaner body to the steady bracket disconnect the breather hose and lift away the air cleaner. Unscrew and remove the wing nut or screws on top of the air cleaner and prise off the cover. Extract and discard the element, wipe out the interior of the

With crossply tyres it’s recommended that the wheels are interchanged diagonally; the spare should be brought into the sequence, and obviously a lot of jacking up will be necessary as the work progresses. With radial tyres it's recommended that the tyres are only moved from front to rear and vice versa on the same side of the vehicle and not from side to side. The spare can be brought into the sequence if required but mark the ‘new’ spare wheel so you'll

casing and check that the rubber sealing rings are in good condition. Fit the new element, refit the cover and install the air cleaner. On early 4/90 models with twin carburettors, the

know to which side to fit it when its turn comes again for running on the road. It's a worthwhile idea to have your wheels rebalanced about halfway through their useful life, to

To do this, disconnect the breather hose from the cleaner and unscrew the bolt and two nuts which secure the cleaner to the adaptor plates. Lift away 75

two vertically-mounted air cleaners must be removed.

rings 3 Top cover Air cleaner components (early single carburettor engine) 1 Casing 2 Sealing 4 Screw5 Filter element

Air cleaner securing bolts (2279 cc engine up to

New VX Series (single carburettor) air cleaner

1975)

©) oh43%, ‘ Y

( =-

a"

New VX Series (single carburettor) air cleaner element

New VX Series (twin carburettor) air cleaner

SERVICE SCENE the air cleaner and discard the elements. Clean the inside of the casing including the air intake tube. Before refitting the cleaner, check that the gaskets on the adaptor plates are in good condition. When inserting the attaching bolt, assemble the plain washer, the sleeve and the seal in that order. When screwing on the two securing nuts, fit a sealing washer followed by a plain washer to each of the two studs.

On

later

models

(up

to

1975)

having

a

temperature controlled air intake type air cleaner, renewal of the element depends upon the engine capacity. On 1759 cc engines, extract all the screws from the centre and edge of the air cleaner cover. Prise off the cover (this will need quite a pull), discard the element, wipe out the casing interior and check the condition of the rubber sealing rings. Install the new element, and refit the cover.

On

single

carburettor

2279

cc

engines,

disconnect the warm air intake pipe and breather hose from the air cleaner and the sensor vacuum pipe at the manifold. Release the front support and unscrew the three cover bolts. Lift away the air cleaner, retaining the gasket which is fitted between the air cleaner and the carburettor. Extract the screws from the edge of the air cleaner

cover

and

prise off the

cover.

Discard

the

element, wipe out the interior of the casing and then fit the new element. Install the air cleaner by reversing the removal operations. On dual carburettor installations, the air cleaner elements are accessible in a similar way to that just described for single carburettor models. The new elements will have integral sealing rings.

On

new

VX

slacken

the

oval

Series

single

clip which

} ="

carburettor holds

the

models,

air cleaner

casing to the elbow connecting hose. Then slacken the clip which secures the crankcase ventilation hose to the camshaft cover, also the clip which holds the hot air intake hose to the temperature controlled air intake. Disconnect the small-bore vacuum hose from the vacuum unit. Lift away the air intake and casing after first extracting the two clips and washers which hold it to the intake manifold. With the casing removed, release the six toggle clips to separate the two halves of the casing. Remove and discard the element, wipe out the casing and install the new element so that the arrow stamped on its side points towards the carburettor. Refit by reversing the removal operations. On twin carburettor models, detach the hoses from the vacuum unit and from the intake manifold. Remove the two square-headed sleeve nuts and rubber washers, also the single hexagonal bolt. Lift off the cover from the casing to expose the two filter elements. Discard the elements, wipe out the casing and install the mew. Reassemble and reconnect by reversing the dismantling and disconnection operations.

2.

Lubricate distributor

Remove the distributor cap, the rotor (two screws) and then apply two or three drops of engine

oil through the hole marked ‘OIL’ in the baseplate. On late VX

Series

models,

don’t

apply oil to the foam

plastic lubricator as this has grease worked into it (see contact points renewal — 6000 mile Service Schedule, Item 8).

3. Lubricate dynamo only)

rear bearing (FD Series

On vehicles equipped with a dynamo, apply a few

ic)

Typical distributor lubrication points

1 Oil 2 Grease

3 (New VX Series only) Oil

Dynamo lubrication point

SERVICE SCENE drops of engine oil to the rear bearing. No lubrication is required to the front bearing, or to alternators installed on later vehicles.

.4.

Clean Borg-Warner transmission casing

On vehicles fitted with this type of automatic transmission, clean off any mud or oil which may have accumulated on the oil pan or casing. Also keep the slots and filter screen on the torque converter housing free from obstruction. Failure to observe these precautions may cause overheating of the transmission.

5.

Check steering linkage and suspension

Inspect all the rubber dust excluders at the joints for splitting or and suspension steering deterioration. They must be renewed by your dealer at

once if they are faulty. Have a friend help you to check for wear in the steering linkage and suspension bushes. One of you should push and pull the front road wheels and gently turn the steering wheel (not all at the same time!) while the other checks for slackenss or lost movement in the linkage balljoints or suspension Have any wear or slackness rectified bushes.

-.

Sean

Rear brake drum retaining bolt (early modeis)

immediately by your dealer.

6.

Check rear brake linings

Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear wheels and release the handbrake fully. Remove the road wheel and then the brake drum. To remove the drum, a retaining bolt will first have to be removed (early

models) or retaining clips (later models). If the drum refuses to pull off with hand pressure, try tapping it off with a block of hardwood and a

hammer. If it still refuses to budge, it may be (especially on a car which has covered a high mileage) that the drum has been grooved by wear and the shoes are holding the drum because they have

SS

Saeed

call

View of rear brake assembly after drum removal (early

model)

entered the grooves. On earlier vehicles with manual adjusters, release the adjusters fully and the drums should come off. On later vehicles with automatic

adjusters, if reasonable force won't release the drum you'll have to refer the job to your dealer, as specialised knowledge is required to release the

automatic adjuster mechanism. Once the drum is removed,

brush away all dust,

taking care not to inhale it. Never depress the footbrake while the drum is removed. Examine the linings; if the friction material is worn down to, or nearly down to, the rivets the shoes must be renewed as soon as possible by your dealer. If the linings still have plenty of wear left, just wipe out the drum with a dry cloth.

Any sign of oil contamination

must be rectified

78 immediately, and may be due to a leaking axle oil seal

Front suspension upper balljoint grease nipple (early

models)

SERVICE SCENE or worn seals in the brake wheel cylinder. Refit the drum. If it’s difficult to install over the shoes it’s probably caused by slight displacement of the shoes during dust removal. Tap the shoes in one direction or the other to centralize them and push the drum into position. Apply the footbrake hard several times and then adjust manually adjustable brakes. With automatic adjusters, apply the handbrake several times. Repeat all the operations on the opposite rear brake. Refit the road wheels and lower the vr iicle.

7.

Clean crankcase ventilation breather hose

Remove the hose which runs between the camshaft cover and the induction manifold. Clean any moisture or sludge from the hose. Renew it if it’s Front suspension lower balljoint grease nipple (early

models)

perforated. Refit it and check that its ends make tight joints with the connecting nozzles.

8.

Brake servo unit air filter

A small filter disc is incorporated in the servo unit. This should be renewed by your dealer.

9.

Align headlamp beams

It's recommended that the job also is carried out by your dealer using modern beamsetting equipment.

10. Lubricate front hub bearings The front hub bearings should be dismantled, cleaned, repacked with fresh lubricant, and reassembled and adjusted by your dealer. The disc brake calipers must be removed for this operation and on the later vehicles, steel inserts are used to retain the lubricant which are difficult to extract, so it is best to leave this job to a dealer who will have the necessary equipment and know-how.

11.

Check

camshaft

belt tension and adjust if

necessary Maintenance of correct belt tension is essential. If the belt’s too tight it will whine, and if too loose it will soon wear. Before the belt tension can be checked, the belt cover must be removed. As this will necessitate prior removal of the crankshaft pulley and fan assembly, this is another operation which is best left to your Vauxhall dealer. However, if you're enjoying working on your car and feel ready to tackle some of these more difficult jobs, they're all covered in detail in our Owner's Workshop Manual for the Vauxhall FD or FE Series.

12.

Lubricate front suspension arm balljoints This is only required on vehicles manufacturered

up to 1973; therefore the balljoints are of the sealed type and don’t incorporate a grease nipple.

Removing overdrive sump plate

There are four grease nipples altogether, two on 79

SERVICE SCENE each side of the vehicle. Clean away any dirt and give three or four strokes of the grease gun to each nipple.

13. Renew the gearbox/overdrive oil and clean overdrive filter (where applicable) The oil should be drained when hot, and in view of this take care that it doesn’t scald your skin. Remove the gearbox drain plug and let all the oil run

out. The gearbox and overdrive unit share a common oil supply, and so the overdrive will be drained at the same time. If your car has an overdrive unit, read the next bit before draining the oil as if you intend to clean the filter the procedure’s not exactly simple and you may prefer to let your dealer do the job. The overdrive unit has a sump plate which can be removed by unscrewing the bolts for access to the oil filter, relief valve and oil pump. Beware of hot oil! Don't damage the suction filter screen (this is not the

main filter). Three plugs, each with two holes in, will now be visible. The two holes are for a suitable unscrewing too! to be fitted. Make one up — don't try tapping them round with a punch. The plug securing the filter is the largest one. When removed the filter can be taken out. Wash the element in paraffin and fit a new aluminium sealing washer when replacing the plug. Stake it into position after tightening. Observe absolute cleanliness when refilling the gearbox with specified oil, as any grit can cause a fault in the overdrive unit if it finds its way through in the oil.

14.

Renew spark plugs

12 000 miles is reckoned to be a reasonably good life span for spark plugs, and the better performance, easier starting and improved fuel economy which will result from fitting a new set preclude any idea of trying to make the old ones last longer. Buy new plugs which are in line with the plug

maker's latest recommendations (this can be checked in the plug maker's reference material in the motor accessories store). It’s often found that in the light of changes in fuel and oil a hotter or cooler running plug may

be

specified

which

Protection down to

80

IC

OF

=12 —15 =35

10 3) —28

varies

from

the

motor

manufacturers’ original recommendations — follow the spark plug makers’ guide, they know their own plugs best! Always set the electrode gap on new plugs before fitting them. The procedure’s covered in Item 8 of the

6000-mile Service Schedule.

EVERY 24 000 MILES (40 000 KM) OR 24 MONTHS, WHICHEVER COMES FIRST (In addition to the previous Schedules)

items

covered

in all the

The following items are likely to be required: Automatic transmission fluid (where applicable), antifreeze, spanners.

1. Renew GM automatic (where applicable)

transmission

Renewal of the transmission fluid will necessitate removal of the transmission oil pan. Provided a new

gasket

is available,

this

isn’t

a difficult

job,

but

remember that if the vehicle has just returned from a run then the oil will be very hot indeed.

At

the

time

of

changing

the

fluid

it’s

also

recommended that the internal filter screen is cleaned, and the low band servo adjustment should also be checked. In view of this, all three jobs are best left to your Vauxhall dealer.

2.

Renew coolant

Two years is generally long enough for any antifreeze mixture to remain in the cooling system. Apart from dilution of the strength due to leakage or boiling away, the anti-corrosive elements in the mixture will effectiveness.

probably have lost much of their Early autumn is the best time for this

job even if you have to exceed the service period. Unscrew the drain tap, which is located on the left-hand side of the cylinder block. Later models have a drain plug which should be unscrewed with a socket or ring spanner. On early models the radiator was also fitted with a drain tap at the bottom left-hand corner, but on later models the bottom hose clip must be released and the hose disconnected to allow the water to drain. Make sure that the heater control’s set to ‘HOT’ during both draining and refilling. If the coolant which is being drained is clear and

Antifreeze requirements Proportion of antifreeze

Quantity of antifreeze 1699 cc & 1975 cc 1759 cc & 2279 cc

25% 30% 50%

fluid

Pts

Litres

Pts

Litres

3.4 4.1

1.9 223

3.6 4.4

251 2.5

6.8

3.8

Ties

4.1

SERVICE SCENE

Typical cylinder block drain tap

Radiator drain tap (early models)

.

Steering lower shaft detail 1 Pinch bolt 2 Flexible coupling flange bolts

without rust, the system may be refilled immediately. If the coolant’s contaminated, insert a cold water hose in the radiator filler neck and flush the system

through taps.

until the water

flows

clean from

the drain

With the system completely empty, close the drain taps securely and reconnect the bottom hose. Now is a good time to examine the condition of the

hoses and also check that all hose clips are tight. Pour in some fresh antifreeze and then refill the system by pouring clean water slowly into the radiator. The strength of the antifreeze mixture can be decided from the accompanying table, the percentages indicate amount by volume of glycol type antifreeze.

3.

Tightening a steering rack outer bellows clip

3 Pinch bolt

Check steering gear attachment

Try a spanner on the rack and pinion steering gear attachment nuts to the front crossmember. Also

check the tightness of the steering shaft flexible coupling and pinch bolt nuts. If the flexible coupling has any cracks or splits it must be renewed, a job for your dealer. Examine the steering gear bellows for splits; if any

are

once neck time this then

by your dealer. Sometimes, the bellows outer has become twisted due to incorrect setting last the front wheel alignment was adjusted. Where is noticed, release the clip, turn the bellows and retighten the clip

4.

apparent,

the bellows

must

be renewed

at

Inspect exhaust system

Check the complete length of the exhaust system for severe corrosion. Where any flaky areas are noticed, have the engine idling and look under the vehicle, when it should be possible to hear or see the exhaust gas escaping. Have any bad or perforated sections renewed.

81

SERVICE SCENE Next check the exhaust mountings. If the flexible components have deteriorated then these must also be renewed. This isn’t a difficult job provided the old bolts and clamps are well soaked with releasing fluid before attempting to unscrew them.

5.

Renew hydraulic fluid in braking system Due to the fact that hydraulic brake fluid absorbs

moisture, which can corrode the internal parts of the

hydraulic units and also lowers the boiling point of the fluid, it should be renewed at least every two years. To do this, the system must be bled and this is a somewhat tricky operation best left to your Vauxhall dealer. For safety reasons, it’s also suggested that the rubber seals in the hydraulic components should be renewed at the same time, as they gradually deteriorate too. This is a point worth discussing with your dealer.

OTHER REGULAR SERVICING If you carry out the procedures we've detailed so far, at more or less the prescribed intervals of mileage or time, then you'll have gone a long way towards getting the best out of your Vauxhall in terms of both performance and long life. That’s the good news. The other kind is that there are always other areas, not dealt with in regular servicing schedules, where neglect can spell trouble. We reckon a bit of extra time spent on your car at the beginning and end of the winter will be well repaid in terms of peace of mind and prevention of trouble. The suggested attentions which follow have therefore been divided into Spring and Autumn sections — but there’s nothing te prevent you doing

about underneath and getting filthy and uncomfortable doing it.yourself. However, for the owner who really wants to do it by hand, here goes .... You'll need paraffin or a water-soluble solvent, water (and preferably a hose), a wire brush, a scraper and a stiff-bristle brush.. If you think the car floor may leak, remove the carpets or they'll get wet; this will also help you pinpoint the places where water's getting in. To start with, jack the car up as high as possible, preferably at one side or one end. For your own safety, support it on ramps or concrete or wooden blocks and chock the wheels which are on the ground. Unless both rear wheels are raised, also apply the handbrake; similarly, unless both front wheels are off the ground engage first or reverse gear. Now get underneath (you've put it off as long as you can!) and cover the brake discs and calipers with polythene bags to stop mud and water getting into them. Next loosen any encrusted dirt and, working from one end or one side, scrape or brush it away. The paraffin

or solvent

can

be

used

where

there’s

oil

contamination. After all the brushing and scraping, a final wash down with the hose will remove the last of

put this one first as it's less depressing than Autumn — though there’s probably more work involved!

the dirt and mud. You can now check for leaks in the floor; if you find any, dry the area carefully then use a mastic type sealer to plug the offending gap. Hollow sections of doors and bodywork can be sprayed or brush-painted with a rust-inhibitor to provide some extra protection. If there are signs of the underseal breaking away, this is a good opportunity to patch it up. Undersealing paint is available in spray cans or tins from accessory shops; one small point about putting the stuff on though, and that’s to make sure the area is clean and dry, otherwise you're wasting your time. While you're underneath, have a good look round for signs of rusting. Likely places are the body sills and floor panels, and if you do find any rust have a word with the local Vauxhall man or body repair shop before things get too bad.

Underside of Car

Bodywork

In Spring, we venture to suggest, the owner's fancy lightly turns to thoughts of cleaning off all the accumulated muck of winter from underneath the car. Without a shadow of doubt, the best time to clean underneath is the worst time from the discomfort point of view — that is, when the car's been driven in the wet and all the dirt’s nicely softened up. So let's talk first about the easiest way out — steam cleaning or pressure washing. These aren't D-I-Y jobs, and can only be done at larger garages, usually those which undertake body repair jobs. You may feel this method's unnecessarily

This too will have suffered from all the muck and salt that’s around during the winter, and there’s no better time to wash it thoroughly and check for stone chips and rust spots. You're bound to find some, despite the regular washing you've given the car — or meant to — throughout the winter. Treat as for rusty scratches (see Body Beautiful). After the touch-up has thoroughly hardened, it’s worth giving the car a good polish to prepare it for the long, hot summer ahead (well, there's no harm in hoping). If you're feeling really energetic you could do the interior as well but the most important cleaning jobs are now done.

them more frequently if you like!

SPRING We've

82 expensive, but it’s generally preferable to grovelling

SERVICE SCENE

Wipers/washers

AUTUMN With winter on the way, your car's electrical system is going to take much more of a beating than it has during the last few months. Now — and not ona dark night miles from anywhere in a snowstorm — is the time to check the vital components. Where other Sections or Chapters are referred to in brackets, the detailed procedure’s described there.

Battery Ensure this is topped Service Schedule)

up

correctly

These are going to get a lot of use, so check the wiper arms and blades. Top up washer reservoir and

check operation

(Weekly Service Schedule)

Cooling system Check all hoses (24 O00 mile Service Schedule) Drain, flush and refill system with new antifreeze mixture if necessary

(Weekly

Check and clean as necessary

Tyres Check

Fan belt Adjust and check for fraying (6000-mile Service

tread and condition.

Remember

may well be driving in slippery conditions Service Schedule)

that you

(Week/y

Schedule) Lights

Bodywork

Check operation (Week/y Service Schedule) Renew any failed bulbs or check for faults as necessary

Finally, if you've got any energy left, wash the car and polish it thoroughly to help protect the paint against the winter elements.

83

Body Beautiful If you've bought this book intending to do all the routine servicing of your car yourself, then you'll surely want to keep the bodywork and inside of the car looking good too. And for anyone who doesn't here’s how to do it

anyway ... It's always a good idea to clean the interior first; this way you won't get the dust all over your nicely

polished exterior — or the car's! Begin by removing all the contents, not forgetting the odds and ends in the pockets and glovebox. Then take out all the mats and carpets, which should be shaken and brushed, or better still vacuum-cleaned. If they need further

cleaning this can be done with a carpet shampoo, but let them dry thoroughly before you put them back. Any underfelt should be taken out and shaken, too, but don’t try washing this or it may end up in rather more pieces than you started with. If the carpets should just happen to be in such a bad state of decay that they don’t merit cleaning, why not get yourself a decent set of replacements? You can get kits tailored for your particular model from specialist firms, and they're quite reasonably priced. The inside of the car can now be cleaned with a brush and dustpan, or again preferably a vacuumcleaner. If the flex on the Hoover won't stretch to the car (and the car won't squeeze through the front

door!) it might be worth thinking about investing in one of the small 12 volt hand vacuums which can be attached to your car battery — your accessory shop can probably show you one.

Seat and trim materials can be wiped over with warm water containing a little washing-up liquid, but for best results (particularly if they're very dirty) use 84 one of the proprietary upholstery cleaners such as

Decosol, which are specially made for the job. An old nail brush will help to remove ingrained marks, but don’t splash too much water about and do wipe the surfaces dry afterwards with a clean cloth, leaving the windows open to speed up drying. The carpets can be put back when they’re quite dry, making sure they're properly fitted around the controls etc. You have to be careful about cleaning car windows, especially the windscreen, with some household products as these can leave a smeary film. Water containing a few drops of ammonia is probably best,

but any

stubborn

marks

and

smears

can

removed with methylated spirit; finish off with chamois leather squeezed as dry as possible.

be

a

Just in case you should think that’s it, there’s still

the boot to be dealt with. Take out that collection of junk that seems to have grown every time you open the lid, and get busy with brush or vacuum cleaner again. While you're at it, if you must carry all that stuff around, now’s the time to try and stow it so it doesn't rattle any more! Now you can pause for a moment — make a well earned cup of tea perhaps — and take a critical look at

the interior. Are there any nicks or tears in the seats or

other trim?

Is the headlining

drooping

or peeling?

Some excellent products can. now be obtained for repairs such as these. One of the most useful is probably the vinyl repair kit, which comes in various colours and consists of a quantity of ‘liquid vinyl’ and

BODY BEAUTIFUL some sheets of texturing material. The liquid is applied to a split or hole in a plastic seat or piece of trim, smoothed like body filler, and allowed to set. It’s then blended into the surrounding area by selecting the best matching pattern from the graining material supplied, placing this over the repair and rubbing with a hot iron; the pattern is then embossed in the repaired area. This type of repair’s equally successful, incidentally, on vinyl roofs if your car happens to have

one. For larger splits or tears it may be necessary to cut a piece of matching material from somewhere that doesn’t show, apply some suitable adhesive to it and work it under the edges of the tear, pressing these together as neatly as possible once the glue has become

tacky enough.

Any loose headlining

or trim

can also be stuck in place — but make sure you get an adhesive that’s suitable for PVC or vinyl. Once you've got the seats in a reasonable state of cleanliness and repair, why not consider seat covers? Like the carpets, they're available from specialist firms to suit your car and are a worthwhile buy in view of the protection they give. If you use your car regularly and you've got the time and inclination, it should really be washed every week, either by hand (preferably using a hosepipe) or by taking advantage of the local car-wash if there is

one. Whichever method you choose (assuming you wash your Car at all!) we don’t think we need tell you how to do it — but remember it’s never a good idea to just wipe over a very dirty car, whether wet or dry; you might as well sandpaper it! Two or three times a year (even once is better than not at all) a good silicone or wax polish can be used on the paintwork. We don’t know which of the many makes you'll use, so we can only recommend you to follow the maker's instructions closely so that you do see a reward for your efforts. Chrome parts are best cleaned

with a special chrome

cleaner; ordinary

metal polish will attack the finish. If the paint’s beginning to lose its gloss or colour, and ordinary polishing doesn’t seem to help, it will be

worth considering the use of a polish with a mild ‘cutting’ action to remove what is, in effect, a surface layer of dead paint. Your friendly neighbourhood accessory shop man will advise on a suitable type. The remainder of this Chapter describes how to keep your car's bodywork and paintwork in good condition by dealing with scratches and more major damage too, as they occur. A number of repair aids and materials are referred to, most of them essential if you're to achieve good results. They should all be

available, together with free advice, from good motor accessory shops.

i

Likely points for rust to attack on the FD and FE series Vauxhalls

BODY BEAUTIFUL which makes it a virtually impossible job. Try to bring

Keeping paintwork up to scratch With superficial scratches (the sort only other people seem to get) where they don’t penetrate down to the metal, you'll be glad to hear that repair can be very simple. Lightly rub the area with a paintwork renovator or a fine cutting paste to remove any loose paint from the scratch and to clean off any polish. Rinse the area with plenty of clean water and allow to dry. Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using a fine

brush, and continue to build up the paint by several applications, allowing each to dry, until it’s level with the surrounding area. Allow the new paint at least two weeks to harden (knitting or a crossword puzzle will help to pass the time), then use the paintwork renovator or cutting paste again to blend it into the original. Now a good polish can be used. For anyone who's as lazy as we are, the easy alternative to painting over a scratch is to use a ‘paint transfer’, available in packs to match popular car colours. Prepare the affected area in the same way as for touch-up paint , then simply pick a transfer of a suitabie size to cover the scratch completely. Hold the transfer against the area and burnish its backing paper, and if you're doing it right you should find it

sticks to the car paintwork (rather than your hand), and at the same time frees itself from the backing. The patched area can now be polished to blend it in. When you've got a scratch that’s penetrated right through to the metal, causing rusting, you need a different technique. Use your Scout knife to remove any loose rust from the bottom of the scratch, then paint on a rust-inhibiting paint to prevent it from spreading. You'll probably now need to apply cellulose body stopper paste — use a rubber or nylon applicator or a knife, but don’t borrow one from the kitchen as you'll have a job cleaning it! The paste can be thinned down if necessary using cellulose thinners. Before it hardens, it’s a good idea to wrap a piece of smooth cotton rag round the end of your finger, dip it in thinners and quickly sweep it across the filled scratch. This ensures that the area is very slightly hollowed and allows the paint to be built up to the correct level as described earlier.

Dealing with dents

86

the level up to about ¢ inch below the surrounding area; obviously, with shallow dents you can by-pass this bit. If the underside of the dent can be got at, try

hammering it out gently from behind using a hammer with a wooden or plastic head. You'll need to hold a fairly heavy hardwood block on the outside of the dent; this absorbs the impact of the hammer blows

and

helps to stop the

metal

opposite direction! If you've got a dent

body section, or there’s

being

dented

in a completely

in the

enclosed

something else preventing

you from getting behind it, a different approach is needed. Try to screw up enough courage to drill several small holes through the metal in the dent, particularly in the deeper parts. Now screw in several self-tapping screws so that they get a good bite, and either pull on the heads with pliers or wrap some heavy gauge steel wire round them and pull this.

Brace yourself in case something

gives suddenly or

you may dent your own bodywork!

Now to remove the paint from the damaged area. This is best done using a power drill and abrasive disc, but if you've got the time and energy you can use elbow-grease and abrasive paper. Don’t forget to remove the paint from an inch or so of the surrounding good paintwork, too, so that everything blends in nicely. Now score the metal surface with a screwdriver or the tang of a file to provide a good key for the filler which you're going to have to apply, in case you didn’t know. Now, to finish off the repair, refer to the filling and spraying section at the end of this Chapter.

Rust holes and gashes If there’s any paint left on the affected area, remove it as described above so that you can get a good idea of just how bad the problem is. If there’s more rust or fresh air than good metal, now's the time to consider whether a replacement panel would be more appropriate; this is a body shop job beyond the scope of this book. If things don't seem that bad and you're prepared to have a go at doing the job yourself, remove all the fittings from the surrounding area except those which may help to give a good guide to what the shape

When your car's bodywork gets a deep depression, you'll probably have one too. But there's no reason why even fairly large dents can't be tackled successfully by the D-I-Y owner, especially using the excellent body repair materials now available. So cheer up, and let’s see what can be done. The first step is to try to pull the dented metal

should be (e.g. blade or a pair badly affected that you've got

out to bring it more or less back to the original level.

going

Don’t

unfortunately just anything won't do. The best bets are zinc gauze, aluminium tape or polyurethane foam.

expect

to make

a perfect

job of this — you

won't; the metal has stretched and ‘work-hardened’

headlamp shells). Now, get a hacksaw of snips and cut out all the loose and metal. Hammer the edges inwards so a recessed area to build up on.

Wire brush the edges to remove any powdery rust, then paint over with a rust inhibitor; if you can get to the back, do the same to that. You're now

to

fill

the

hole

with

something,

but

The procedure given with these photos is simplified; more comprehensive instructions will be found in the accompanying text. Typical rust

damage is shown here, but the procedure for the repair of dents and gashes is similar.

First remove fittings from the immediate area and then remove loose rust and paint. A wire brush or abrasive disc mounted in a power drill is best, although the job can be done by hand. You need

to be very thorough.

\} a

The edges of a hole should be tapped inwards with a hammer to provide a hollow for the filler. Having done this, apply rust inhibitor to the affected area {including the underside where possible) and allow this to dry thoroughly.

When mixing the body filler, follow manufacturers’ instructions very carefully. thoroughly, dont mix too much at one go, don't make it up until you're ready to start filling modern fillers begin to harden very quickly!

Before attempting to fill larger holes, block them off with suitable material. Metal tape can be used, but the picture shows a piece of aluminium gauze

being sized up for use on this hole.

The tape or be secured filler paste. quantity for

gauze used for backing up a hole can in position with a few small blobs of It’s a good idea to mix a very small this purpose first.

After

mixing

the

filler,

flexible applicator, body.

apply

following

The filler should

it quickly

the contours

with

a

of the

be built up in successive

thin layers, the final one being just above the level of the surrounding bodywork. rr

=

a

A sanding block will now be needed; this can be made

A fairly coarse file or cutting tool is best for removing excess filler and for achieving the initial contour. Care must be taken not to overdo the filing or you'll hollow out the surface and have to fill it again!

of

rubber one

wood can

as

shown

be purchased.

or

a purpose-made Begin shaping

filler by using the block with progressively grades of dry abrasive paper, followed by...

the

finer

1 OEE

After thorough washing and drying, any necessary masking can be done and a coat ofprimer applied. Again, build this up with successive thin layers. Once the primer is dry it should be smoothed with very fine wet-and-dry paper.

ee . wet and-dry paper, keeping both the work area

and the paper wet. Rubbing down is complete when the filled area is ‘feathered’ into the surrounding painted areas, as shown; this final stage is achieved with the finest grade paper.

The top coat of paint can now be applied, again in thin layers. Later a mild cutting paste can be used to blend it with the surrounding paint. Finish off with a good quality polish.

BODY BEAUTIFUL The gauze is probably the favourite for a large hole.

Cut a piece slightly larger than the hole to be filled, then position it in the hole so that its edges are below the level of the surrounding bodywork. If necessary, hold it in place with a few blobs of filler paste. For small or narrow holes you can use the aluminium tape which is sold by the roll. Pull off a piece and trim to the approximate size and shape required. If there's

backing paper, peel it off (it sticks better that way) and place the tape over the hole; if necessary, pieces can be overlapped at the edges. Burnish down the edges of the tape with a file handle or similar to make sure it’s firmly adhering to the metal. Polyurethane foam is best used in hollow body sections but, if you’re using this, follow the maker's instructions carefully. When this foam hardens it can be cut back to just below the level of the surrounding bodywork with a hacksaw blade. With the hole now blocked off, the affected area can be filled and sprayed as follows.

Filling and spraying Many types of body filler are available, but generally speaking those proprietary kits which contain filler paste (or filler powder and resin liquid) and a separate hardener are best. You'll also need a flexible plastic or nylon applicator (usually supplied) for putting the mixture on with. Mix up a little of the filler on a piece of board or plastic (those plastic margarine tubs are ideal but do wash out all traces of the contents first!). Read the instructions carefully and don’t make up too much at one go. You'll find you have to work fairly fast or the mixture will begin to set, especially if you've been a bit generous with the hardener. Apply the paste to the prepared hole or dent more or less to the correct level and contour, but don't try to shape it once it’s become tacky or it'll pick up on the applicator. Layers should be built up at intervals until the final level’s just proud of the surrounding bodywork. When the filler has fully hardened, use a Surform plane or coarse file to remove the excess and obtain the final shape. Then follow with progressively finer grades of wet-or-dry abrasive paper starting with coarse, followed by medium, then fine (some manufacturers give ‘grit’ grades to their wet-or-dry

paper — 40 is the coarsest, 400 the finest). Always wrap the paper round a flat block if you're trying to get a flat surface, and keep it wet by rinsing in clean water or the filler and paint will clog up the abrasive

filler dust, and allow it to dry completely. If you're happy with the surface you've obtained, then you're ready to apply some paint. First spray over the whole area with a light coat of grey primer. This will show up any surface imperfections which may need further treatment, and will also help you get the knack of spraying with an aerosol can before you start on the colour coats. Rub down the surface again, and if necessary use a little body stopper, as described for minor scratches, to fill any small imperfections. Repeat this spray-and-level procedure until you're satisfied with the finish; then wash down again and allow to dry. The next stage is to apply the finishing coats, but first a word or two about the techniques involved. Paint spraying should be done in a warm, dry, windless, dust-free atmosphere — conditions not very readily available to most of us! You may be able to approach them artificially if you've got a large indoor workshop, but if you have to work outside you'll need to pick the day carefully. If you're working in your garage you'll probably need to ‘lay’ the dust on the floor by damping it with water. If the body repair’s confined to a small patch, mask off the surrounding area to protect it from paint spray. Bodywork fitting (chrome strips, door handles and the like) will need to be either masked or removed. If you're masking, use genuine masking tape and plenty of newspaper as necessary. Before starting to spray, shake the aerosol can thoroughly; then experiment on something (an old tin or similar will do — not the neighbours’ car!) until you feel you can apply the paint smoothly. At the previous stage this wasn't too important, but now you're trying to get the best possible finish. First cover the repair area with a thick coat of primer — not as one coat, but built up of several thin ones. When this is dry, using the finest wet-or-dry paper, rub down the surface until it’s really smooth. Use plenty of water to keep the surface clean; when it's dry, spray on another primer coat and repeat the procedure.

Now for the top coat. Again the idea’s to build up the paint thickness by several thin coats. Have a test

spray

first

commence

as

this

is a

different

aerosol,

then

spraying in the centre of the repair area.

Using a circular motion, work gradually outwards towards the edges until the whole of the repair and about two inches of the surrounding original paint is covered. Remove all the masking material 10 to 15

minutes after you've finished spraying.

surface. At this point, the doctored area should be surrounded by a ring of bare metal, encircled by a

Now you can start putting away all the bits and pieces because it'll need about two weeks for the paint to harden completely. After this time, using a

feathered edge of good paintwork. Rinse it with plenty of clean water to get rid of all the paint and

edges of the new paint into the original. Finally, apply 89

paint renovator or a very fine cutting paste, blend the

BODY BEAUTIFUL a good wax or silicone polish, and hopefully you'll have a repair you're proud to own up to!

Adding ‘Pinstripes’ There are various kinds of self-adhesive body decor available for customising your car. Perhaps the neatest and most suitable of the ‘add-on’ variety are ‘Pinstripes’, and we've mentioned these here as they may appeal to the owner who wants a cheap and simple way to improve the appearance of his or her car. ‘Pinstripes’ are adhesive tapes which come in different widths and colours, and as single or multistripes. Most have a backing paper which is peeled off as the stripe’s applied. When applying any of these self-adhesive tapes, first make sure the paintwork’s clean by washing with warm water and a car shampoo or liquid detergent. Next clean up the surface with a very fine cutting

90

paste or paintwork renovator, and wash down again. You can now apply the tape, but follow the directions carefully. Smooth it down with clean rag and, if necessary, prick out any small air bubbles with a pin. Try not to stretch the stripes as you put them on because they'll shrink slightly anyway; and wrap the ends round the panels so that they don't pull away at the edges.

Upholstery painting If you think the upholstery or interior panelling of your Car requires renovating, or maybe you want to improve the colour scheme or make it look more sporty, there are various colours of upholstery paint available in accessory shops. You can also use the paint to cover up repairs, but make sure it’s a perfect

match or you could make things look worse.

The Personal Touch On the subject of accessories it’s been said that, if somebody makes it, the motorist will buy it. The ‘aftermarket’ in extras and accessories has now grown to enormous proportions, and it can be difficult to sort out the useful and practical items from what, at the other end of the scale, is some undoubted rubbish. We'd need several volumes to discuss all the various kinds of things you might conceivably buy for your car, and those we have managed to mention can’t be gone into in great detail in a book like this. Some time spent browsing around a good motor accessory shop will reveal more than we can here, but nevertheless we hope the suggestions given may prove useful. All good products will be supplied with general fitting instructions which may or may not require minor modifications to suit your Vauxhall. If you're buying secondhand, of course, you may get no

instructions at all. The guidelines given here are in no way intended to replace the manufcaturers’ instructions, and if you're in doubt about fitting a particular item, they're the people to refer to. NOTE: always disconnect the battery before commencing any work involving the electrical system. Fireworks are very pretty, but there’s a time and place for everything.

Auxiliary instruments

brackets and small extra panels, because the instruments will end up being rather low down. On some versions there's room in the dash itself, but if you do decide to put anything there, make sure there’s nothing immediately behind the mounting point because you'll have to drill and file out a suitable hole. Some instruments such as tachometers can be pod types, which are attached to the top of the dash panel. Another answer may be a central console, which will not only allow you to mount instruments but may have a radio installation compartment and/or a storage pocket. Sorne information on these is given a little later on. Sooner or later you're going to have to start drilling some holes somewhere, but this needn't cause any real headaches if it’s approached in the right way. As already mentioned, make sure there's

It would be possible to write a complete book on auxiliary instruments and how to fit them but, as with other things, you'll normally get pretty good instructions when you buy them. Because there are so many instruments available, we’re only going to consider battery condition indicators, clocks, oil pressure gauges, tachometer and vacuum gauges. First of all, even before you've decided what instruments you're going to fit, you’ve got to think

nothing behind the panel before even considering drilling a hole, and that there’s enough room to fit the instrument, switch, or whatever, in the space chosen. Any hole which will have a cable or capillary running through it must have a plastic or rubber grommet to prevent the metal chafing through; these grommets

where to fit them. The dash panel of this range of Vauxhall models doesn’t lend itself readily to fitting

can be obtained from shops.

DIY accessory or car electrical

91

(salsnpu] Syyws) saossazze pue sJuaWINASU! /e9/AA] BWIOS

VEGLIA YAZAKI

| THE PERSONAL TOUCH

BORLETTI

SMITHS

=e

COIL

COIL

Connections for three popular tachometers Yazaki: Smiths:

Veglia Borletti:

Negative earth shown — reverse arrowed wires to change polarity. Positive earth shown — the dotted connection must be removed when the tachometer /s fitted. Reverse arrowed wires to change polarity. Negative earth shown — reverse arrowed wires to change polarity

When it comes to drilling larger holes for instruments, start off by centre-punching the middle of the area, then use compasses or dividers to mark the hole, allowing a little for clearance (standard instruments are 2 in/52 mm diameter). It’s best to mark another hole inside the first hole, and drill around this line so that the centre part can readily be pushed out; if you're using a 1/8 in drill the inner circle will need to be 1/16 in inside the first circle marked. Finish the job off by carefully filing and deburring the hole. An alternative method of cutting large holes is to use a tank cutter of the type used by plumbers. Some of these, which resemble a circular hacksaw blade, can be purchased in a variety of diameters and will fit in an electric drill, so removing much of the hard work.

Battery condition indicator The battery voltmeter, and as earth point on connection which

ON.

condition indicator is simply a such must be connected to a good the chassis and to any suitable is live when the ignition switch is

Clock Clocks

come

in many

forms,

but

most

types

contain semi-conductors. If this means nothing to you, remember that while it ensures a negligible load on the battery it does mean that the polarity (positive/negative connections) is critical if you don't want to cause permanent damage, so watch the makers’ instructions here. Connections are much the same as for the battery condition indicator except that you don’t want the clock to stop when the ignition’s switched

off, so make

your connection

to a lead or

terminal which is live with the ignition switch off. The ‘live’ terminal of the main lighting switch is a good connection point.

Tachometer The tachometer (rev counter) is the one instrument that’s available in larger sizes than the others (80 mm instead of 52 mm, although this

smaller size can be obtained). Most are positive or negative earth, but you must connect them up correctly. In case one, connections

you should pick up a secondhand for the most common types are

shown in the illustrations. Note that with the Smiths 93

THE PERSONAL TOUCH type, the distributor-to-coil LT lead is removed. Use a

14/0.30 (14/0.12) cable size.

Consoles

Oil pressure gauge

Unless your model's a VX 4/90, New VX 4/90 or

oil New VX 2300 GLS, it won't be equipped with an pressure gauge, but only a warning lamp as original : equipment. oil the removing first by gauge You can install a of the pressure switch from the right-hand side switch The . tee-piece a in cylinder block and screwing tee at the oil gauge pipe can then be connected to the as well as gauge a of benefit piece, so having the likely retaining the warning light which is much more to be noticed in the event of a sudden oil pressure drop than is the needle on the gauge under normal driving conditions.

Vacuum gauge (performance consumption gauge)

economical driving. ©

gauge

or

fuel

This is simply a suction (negative pressure) gauge , which screws into a tapping on the inlet manifold the got you've Once gauge. the to pipe flexible with a to hang of using it, it can be very useful as an aid

Consoles come in all shapes, sizes and prices. Before buying, have a good look round to see what's the on the market — that includes looking through back motoring D-I-Y magazines. Some types extend to from the engine compartment wall or dash panel levers behind the handbrake, the handbrake and gear can coming up through the console base panel. You get them with cut-outs for switches, radios and tape players, and for the standard 52 mm diameter circular or instruments. Many types also have an ashtray storage

pocket,

some

always

have

an

arm-rest,

in there’s even a type that fits to the roof! They come or ss, fibregla tte, leathere black — a variety of finishes woodgrain, and in various colours. Without a great deal of difficulty you should be able to get something that suits both your taste and your pocket. Fitting’s usually straightforward, but you may need to drill a few holes which could lead to your buying some self-tapping screws as well. Before drilling, don’t forget to look what's on the other side of the panel, or your console could prove rather expensive!

Typical air horns

THE PERSONAL TOUCH

Warning devices Air horns Air horns are marketed by several companies as a D-I-Y installation kit comprising the horns themselves, a compressor unit, a relay, plastic piping and electrical cable. What you've obviously got to do is mount the horns reasonably near the compressor, and the compressor reasonably near the relay, or the connections just won't reach. It's normal for the manufacturers to specify a certain way up for the compressor to be mounted, but there shouldn't be any other problems. You'll need to make sure that the electrical connections are as per the maker's instructions for the relay and compressor, and decide whether you want to use the air horns in conjunction with, or in place of, the original car horn. If you have to connect into existing wiring, make sure the connections are well made and, if these involve soldering, don’t forget to insulate any soldered joints.

Hazard warning It's to be hoped that you'll never break down ona busy road or in an awkward spot, but if it does happen then it’s reassuring to have a hazard warning system fitted. This is a device which enables all four direction indication lamps to flash simultaneously to warn other vehicles that you're stationary and to help them spot you in bad visibility — not (despite frequent use for the purpose) to indicate that you've parked on double yellow lines to pop into the tobacconist’s! Full instructions are supplied with these kits, but wiring can be tricky as a number of connections need to be made into existing circuits. When you anticipate doing any wiring jobs which

involve connecting to existing leads, try ‘Scotchlok’ connectors to save you disturbing the original wires or having to bother with soldering irons. Similarly a few ‘piggy-back’ Lucar type terminals will enable you to connect two wires to the same power supply point without any difficulty.

Child safety seats and harnesses Much has been said in recent years about the use of seat belts for front seat passengers, and more recently there’s been an increasing interest in the various

special

rear

seats

and

harnesses

now

available for young children. It’s very difficult to give any precise instructions for fitting these, because there are so many types around, but what you must be careful about is ensuring that you buy a BSIapproved kind. Most types have a pair of straps at the lower edge which need to be attached to the rear seat pan at the back of the squab, and a further pair of straps that fit over the back of the car seat for attachment to

Child safety seat (KL Jeenay) the rear parcel shelf (or the floor or wheel arch with estate cars). Take very careful note of the manufacturer's instructions; they require the anchorages to be a certain distance apart, and may also require reinforcing plates to be used. Before starting to drill holes for the mountings, make sure the underside or rear of the panel's clear of obstructions, pipes or any other components, particularly the petrol tank!

Lamps When auxiliary lamps are fitted, not only must you fit them in a suitable place on the car, but that place must also meet certain legal requirements; Where these apply we've attempted to give some guidelines. In addition to the actual lights themselves, we have to think of the switches (not normally difficult because many small switch panels are available, or you may already have a console which will take them, or you can simply drill a hole in a suitable spot on the dash panel), fusing, cable sizes, and whether relays

are necessary.

Spot and fog lamps It’s illegal to mount these with their centres more than 3ft 6 in (1067 mm) from the ground. Any lamps that are mounted with their centres /ess than 2ft (610

95

THE PERSONAL TOUCH

MAIN FEED FROM BATTERY VIA IN-LINE FUSE

SUPPLY TO AUXILIARY

LUCAS 6RA RELAY

FUSED SUPPLY FROM DIPSWITCH OR AUXILIARY LAMP SWITCH

LAMPS

Connections for auxiliary lamps using a relay

mm) above the ground may only be used in fog or falling snow, and a single lamp may be used only /n conjunction with headlamps. The lamps must always be mounted and used in pairs (two fog, two spot, or one of each) if they're to be used independently of the headlights. Their inner edges must be not /ess than 13.8 in (360 mm) apart

an automatic switch must have a switch with a warning lamp to indicate when the reversing lamps are on. An in-line fuse will be needed, probably about 10 amps rating, but it will depend on the actual lamp(s) used.

and their outer edges must be within 153 in (400

Rear fog lights

mm)

These can often be mounted in much the same way as reversing lamps, although bumper-mounting types are very popular. For wiring, the same sort of

of the

spotiamps,

edge

they

of the

must

car.

conform

If they're to the

used

normal

as

anti-

dazzle requirements, by wiring them via the dip switch or by pointing them slightly downwards. Choose the lamps carefully, and if possible match the lamp styles. There are many good types on sale, so if you're not sure what you want seek some advice. The actual mounting’s not too difficult; they can be fitted to a bumper or over-rider bracket, attached by a

bracket to the front grille, or attached to the painted metal strip above the bumper.

To prevent overload of the switch or wiring, a relay should be used (the Lucas 6RA, part No. 33213 is suitable). This is connected through the switch from the existing headlamp circuit to one of the relay ‘coil’ terminals, the other going to a good earth point. The lamp wires then go to one of the relay ‘contact’ terminals, with the other terminal going either to the battery or the battery terminal on the starter solenoid via an in-line fuse. The fuse rating will depend on the lamp manufacturer's recommendations, but will probably be about 20 amps for both lamps. A good place to mount the relay is fairly near the starter solenoid and battery, to reduce the cable runs to a minimum.

Reversing lamps Where these are not already installed it's preferable to buy the Vauxhall kit, which will include a plunger-type switch that bolts to the side of the gearbox and is automatically actuated when the gearbox is moved to the reverse position. Any

96 reversing lamp installation which doesn't incorporate

instructions

apply

as

for

separately

switched

reversing lamps (in fact some types serve a dual function in having a clear lens for reversing and a red snap-on lens for the fog light).

Anti-theft devices There are three main categories of car thieves those people who want your car either as a complete item or for the major mechanical and body parts; those who are out for a joy-ride; and those who merely want the contents. With any type of thief it makes

sense

to do what you can to deter someone

from wanting to about, don’t leave at home, put it in car thief decides

get in; don’t leave valuables lying the car unlocked and, if it’s parked a locked garage if possible. But, if a he does want your particular car,

statistically he’s got a pretty good chance of getting

it! All later cars have a steering column lock (optional on early models) which is a very effective protection against a car being driven away, but it still makes sense to have a good burglar alarm fitted. Many types are available, and many of these are wired into door courtesy light switches or hidden switches beneath seats. Other types are wired into the horn circuit, but separate

horns

unconventional better.

and

bells

are

available;

the

more

it is (whilst still being reliable!) the

Don’t put hidden

switches

in the first place

you think of — it might be the first place the thief thinks of too.

KEEP THIS LEAD AS SHORT AS POSSIBLE JFUSE

An in-line choke should be fittedin the

feed wire as close to the unit as possible

pu IN-LINE CHOKE (SEE TEXT)

> LIVE 0.2 5uf—0.5uf

LIVE —--—-0-O——O FUSE

TO IGNITION

SWITCH”

38?

(IF FITTED)

SWITCH

TO DISTRIBUTOR

TO CONTACT

MOTOR

The correct way to suppress electric motors which are causing interference

BREAKER

BOLT DOWN TO EARTH

~Z: 1.Ouf—3.Ouf \)

HEAVY WIRE

THIN WIRE

The correct way to connect a capacitor to the coil

(above) and the generator (right) TERMINAL

/gnition HT lead suppressors

—————————S—S—X—O

=

|

Left: Resistive suppressor-type plug caps.

DISTRIBUTOR INTERNAL

RESISTOR

SCREW IN FOR HT LEAD

Right:

INTERNAL RESISTOR

Resistive in-line suppressors

TWIN SCREW -IN

THE PERSONAL TOUCH Some anti-theft devices are activated by the movement caused through somebody trying to get into the car (and occasionally by an innocent passerby!). Some not only sound alarms, but also earth the ignition circuit; other devices simply mechanically

lock together

the steering

wheel

and

brake

pedal.

Have a look round the accessory shops and see what Suits your car, your pocket and the degree of protection required.

The type-of aerial used, and where you're going to fit it, is a matter of personal preference. In general, the taller the aerial, the better the reception but there are limits to what's practicable. If you can, fit a fully retractable type — it saves an awful lot of problems with vandals and car wash equipment. When choosing a suitable spot for the aerial, remember the following points: a) b)

Radios and tape players A radio or tape player is an expensive item to buy, and will only give its best performance if fitted properly. It's useless to expect concert hall performance from a unit that is suspended from the dash panel by string with its speaker resting on the back seat or parcel shelf! If you don’t wish to do the installation yourself there are many in-car entertainment specialists who

can do the fitting for you. Make sure the unit purchased is of the same polarity as the car. Ensure that units with adjustable polarity are correctly set before commencing installation. It's difficult

to

give

specific

information

possible.

c)

d)

e)

The part of the aerial which protrudes beneath the mounting point must not foul the road wheels, or anything else. If possible the aerial should be positioned so that the lead does not have to be routed through the engine compartment. The aerial should be mounted at a more-orless vertical angle.

Radio interference suppression

with

Books have been written on the subject, so we're

regard to fitting, as final positioning of the radio/tape

not going to be able to tell you a lot in this small space. To reduce the possibility of your radio picking up unwanted interference, an in-line choke should be

player, speakers and aerial is entirely a matter of personal preference. However, the following paragraphs give guidelines to follow, which are relevant to all installations.

Radios Most radios are a standardised size of 7 inches wide, by 2 inches deep — this ensures that they'll fit into the radio aperture provided in many cars. The following points should be borne in mind before deciding exactly where to fit the unit:

a) b)

c)

d)

98

The aerial lead should be as short as possible. The aerial should be mounted as far away from the distributor and HT leads as

e)

The unit must be within easy reach of the driver wearing a seat belt. The unit mustn't be mounted close to an electric tachometer, the ignition switch and its wiring, or the flasher unit and associated wiring. The unit must be mounted within reach of the aerial lead, and in such a place that the aerial lead won't have to be routed near the components detailed in paragraph ‘b’. The unit shouldn't be positioned in a place where it might cause injury to the car occupants in an accident; for instance, under the dash panel above the driver's or passenger's legs. The unit must be fitted really securely.

fitted in the feed wire and the set itself must be earthed really securely. The next step is to start connecting capacitors to reduce the amount of interference being generated by the different circuits of the car’s electrics. The accompanying illustrations show the various interference generators and give capacitor values for the suppressors. When it comes to the ignition HT leads; these are resistors which can either be suppressor-type plug caps or in-line suppressors; if you're already using

resistive HT leads (those with the carbon fibre filling), they're already doing the job for you. On some models, the windscreen wiper motor can cause interference. Try earthing the wiper motor bracket to the body to cure it.

Tape players Fitting instructions

for

both

cartridge

and

cassette stereo players are the same and in general the same rules apply as when fitting a radio. Tape players aren't usually prone to electrical interference like radios — although it can occur — so positioning isn't so critical. If possible the player should be mounted on an even keel. Also, it must be possible for a driver wearing a seat belt to reach the unit in order to change or turn over tapes.

THE PERSONAL TOUCH

Visibility aids Mirrors Recent EEC legislation has done wonders for the looks of exterior mirrors. In addition to being functional, they now must have no projections to catch clothing or other cars, and must fold flat when struck. The result is a new wave of products in all shapes and sizes, some of which can be sprayed to match up with the existing car finish. There has also

been a marked swing recently from wing mirrors to the door-mounting kind. Choose mirrors which you think will suit the car's styling and, having got them, select the mounting point carefully. You'll get a good idea of where the best place is by simply looking at other cars, but get

someone to hold the mirror while you sit in the driving seat just to make sure you can see all you need to. Mark the position on the wing or door, and if you're fitting two mirrors do likewise on the other to make sure they're both in the same position. Check the hole size needed and, if you can, select a drill this size, plus, where applicable, a smaller one to make a pilot hole. If you haven't got the large drill required for most wing mirrors, you'll have to drill several small

holes and file them out to the correct size. Don’t forget to remove any burrs from the hole afterwards, then paint on a little primer to cover the bare metal edges. When the primer’s dry you can fit the mirror following the maker's instructions, then angle it as necessary to get the best rear view.

Rear window demisters At one time, if your car wasn’t fitted with a heated rear window as standard equipment (and only the expensive models were) about the only remedy was a stick-on clear panel designed to act a bit like

double glazing. They didn't usually work very well and frequently came unstuck too. Now they've been more or less superseded by the element type of stick-on

Fitting may be found to be beyond the scope of the ordinary owner because the wiper motor has to be fitted into the inside skin of the tailgate. The wiring and washer tubing, too, is slightly complicated by having to be passed through the whole length of the body from the switch/reservoir before being led through into the tailgate. Again, full instructions will be supplied by the makers.

Comfort Longer journeys can be much more pleasant if your car's comfortable to drive, and just a couple of suggestions on this theme may be welcome.

Sound reducing kits Very few cars have yet been produced

in which

the noise level, particularly at motorway speeds, is all that could be desired. For economy reasons, most manufacturers put only a certain amount of underfelt and sound-deadening material into their cars, and a further improvement can usually be made by fitting one of the proprietary kits. These are usually tailored to fit individual models, and consist of sections of feltlike material which are glued in place under carpets, inside hollow sections, boot lid etc, in accordance with instructions. The material can also be bought in rolls for D-I-Y cutting, using the carpets etc as templates.

Seats If your car seats are showing signs of old age (and fitting new covers won't disguise the sagging when you sit in them) then you can of course have them rebuilt by an upholstery specialist. On the other hand, you could think about replacing at least the driver's seat by one of the special bucket types available. To look at these you'll have to find an accessory shop stocking the more motor sport

orientated kind of goods.

demister. These act more like the genuine article, consisting of a metal foil element which is peeled off a backing sheet and stuck on to the inside surface of

Miscellaneous

the rear window glass. It has to be wired up to the electrical system, of course, via a suitable fuse and switch, using sufficiently heavy cable and preferably incorporating a warning lamp as it will take quite a

Such systems are many and varied and widely advertised. The makers claim easier starting, better performance and lower fuel consumption as the main advantages, and on the whole these claims are substantiated in practice. However, before buying one of the available kits

Electronic ignition

large current and shouldn't be left on inadvertently. The great thing about these devices is that they do work and are very moderately priced.

we

Rear window wipe/wash

mileage and type of driving makes the expenditure worthwhile. Get other advice, preferably from

This applies more to the Estate versions but can be very useful where it’s found that the back window regularly becomes obscured by road dirt from the car's slipstream in wet weather.

Consider too whether you're capable of installing it yourself, otherwise you'll have to pay for fitting as well.

suggest

someone

you

stop

and

reflect

who's fitted such a system

whether

to his own

your

car.

99

THE PERSONAL TOUCH There are several types of electronic ignition — some retain the conventional contact-breaker in the car's distributor while others replace this by a magnetic triggering device. Even where the contact points are retained they're no longer likely to burn and therefore shouldn't need replacing so frequently — but this doesn't in itself amount to much of a saving.

Steering wheels One of the more popular, easily fitted accessories is a special steering wheel. Many types are available, but often it’s also necessary to buy a boss which fits On to the steering column shaft, to which the steering wheel is then attached. No problems should be

encountered when fitting a steering wheel or boss, once the old steering wheel has been taken off. The following procedure tells you how to remove the standard wheel from the different models covered by this book.

FD

Series

and

FE

Series:

The

steering

wheel's located on splines to the column shaft and secured by a nut. First remove the centre pad by undoing the two screws on the underside of the spoke. Undo the nut with a tubular spanner and then mark the relative position of the wheel to the shaft by making two marks with a centre punch. Then pull the wheel off. The direction indicator switch cancelling sleeve is attached to the steering wheel boss by two screws; transfer it to the new wheel. On VX 4/90 models, the steering wheel spokes are attached to the boss by three screws. If these screws are removed, always use a thread locking compound such as Loctite on

them when refitting them. When installing the new wheel, check that the road wheels are in the straight-ahead attitude so that the steering wheel

spokes can be positioned

to suit

normal straight-ahead driving. Tighten the steering wheel retaining nut securely. If you have a torque wrench, the nut should be tightened to 45 Ibf ft (38 Ibf ft on VX 4/90 models). If you haven't a torque wrench, ask your dealer to check the tightness next time you call in.

Roof racks The

100

types

available

are

very

varied,

but

they

normally rely on clips attached to the water drain channel above the doors. If you’re buying, select a size that suits your requirements, making sure that it’s not too wide for the roof! When fitting the roof rack, position it squarely on the roof, preferably towards the front rather than the rear. After it’s loaded, by the way, recheck the tension of the attachment bracket screws. Don't keep the roof rack on when it’s not wanted; it offers too much wind resistance and creates a surprising amount of noise (see Save /t/).

Dog/luggage guards Owners of the Estate versions who either own a dog or carry large loads in the rear of the vehicle will no doubt find one of these tubular barriers a boon. They're normally adjustable telescopically, both for height and width, and are fitted by clamping between roof and load deck immediately behind the rear seat to keep dog, luggage or whatever in its rightful place and

possibly

prevent

injury

to

the

front

seat

occupants in an emergency stop.

Mudflaps You're rear wheel will not paintwork

probably already aware that both front and arches can be fitted with mudflaps. These only protect your car’s underside and from flying stones, but will also earn the

thanks of following drivers owing to the reduction in spray during wet weather. Fitting’s straightforward and is usually by means of clamping brackets or selftapping screws.

Specialist fitments We've now covered a lot of the main items likely to interest the average owner from the D-I-Y fitting angle. Such things as towbars and sunshine or vinyl roofs, while practical or desirable, are beyond the scope of both this book and of the ordinary car owner. We therefore recommend that for any major accessory of this kind you consult the appropriate specialist who'll be able to give you an initial estimate of the cost as well as carrying out the work properly and safely.

Troubleshooting We've gone to great lengths in this book to provide as much information on your car as we think you'll need for satisfactory running and servicing. Hopefully, you won't need to use this chapter but there's always a possibility (rather than a probability!) that something will go wrong, and by reference to the charts which follow you should be able to pinpoint the trouble even if you can't actually fix it yourself. The charts are broken down into the main systems of the car and, where there's a fairly straightforward

remedy — the sort you can tackle yourself —

bold type is used to highlight it. Further information on that particular item will normally be found elsewhere in the book; look up the component or system in the Index to find the correct page. In some

cases a reference number will be found (e.g. T1/1); by looking up this number in the accompanying Crossreference Table, you'll find more information on that

particular fault.

101

TROUBLESHOOTER 1:

Starter motor doesn’t work properly

Turns engine slowly

very

Doesn't engine.

turn

Starter motor doesn't work when key is turned

Works noisily harshly.

or

Battery flat (T1/1) or defective. Internal starter motor fault.

Starter drive main spring broken (inertia type only). Starter motor retaining bolts

loose (T1/7).

Starter pinion _ Pinion jammed in mesh_ teeth with flywheel worn. (T1/3).

or flywheel broken or

Flat battery (T1/1). Starter motor or Battery connec- solenoid switch tions loose or faulty internally corroded. Loose connection

to starter (T1/2). Automatic transmission. selector not at ‘N’ or ’P’.

102

ENGINE — STARTING

Starter motor turns engine normally but engine won't start

Ignition fault

system

Spark plug lead(s) loose, nected,

discondamp or

faulty (71/4) Spark

plugs

dirty,

cracked or incorrectly gapped. Distributor or coil cap damp, cracked

or HT lead loose. Worn distributor cap electrodes. Coil or condenser

Fuel system fault

Fuel pump faulty or filter blocked

(T1/6). Leak in fuel or fuel lines. Carburettor chamber

pump float fuel

level(s) incorrect. Carburettor incorrectly adjusted. Choke not operating correctly.

Other causes

Air cleaner blocked. Valve clearances incorrect.

Inlet manifold or gasket or Carburettor gasket leaking. Brake servo hose

leaking (T1/8).

(if fitted)

Engine’

seriously

overheated.

(T1/9).

faulty (T1/5). Contact breaker points dirty or incorrectly set. Ignition timing incorrect.

103

TROUBLESHOOTER 2:

Lacks power

Misfires

Ignition fault. Timing incorrect

Fuel system fault

Other causes

Incorrect valve clearances. Low cylinder compression. Air cleaner blocked.

Overheating Insufficient

water

in cooling system/leakage from

system

(T2/1). Fan belt slipping. Radiator blocked or grille obstructed (T2/2). Water collapsed

hose Or

kinked (T2/3). Thermostat

not

operating properly. Exhaust system

obstructed or damaged. Blown cylinder head gasket. Engine not yet run-

in (T2/4). « Brakes binding (over-adjustment). Oil level too low.

104

Running too cool thermostat installed. Thermostat missing working

Ignition fault

ENGINE — RUNNING

Cuts out unexpectedly

Fuel system fault

Ignition fault

Water on ignition components (71/4). Coil or condenser

faulty (T1/5). LT lead to coil or distributor discon-

Fuel system fault

Tank empty. Fuel pump faulty, or filter blocked (T1/6). Fuel

line

broken,

leaking or blocked.

nected (11/4). HT lead from coil loose or discon-

nected (T1/4).

Spark plug lead(s) loose, disconnected, damp or faulty (T1/4). Spark plugs dirty, cracked or incorrectly gapped. Distributor or coil cap damp, cracked or HT lead loose. Worn distributor cap electrodes. Coil or condenser faulty (T1/5). Contact breaker points dirty or incorrectly set.

Ignition

Fuel pump faulty or filter blocked (71/6). Leak in fuel pump or fuel lines. Carburettor float chamber fuel level(s) incorrect. Carburettor incorrectly adjusted. Choke not operating correctly.

timing

incorrect.

105

1(

TROUBLESHOOTER

3:

Gearchange problems

Judder/vibration

Difficulty in engaging or changing

gear. On letting in clutch.

When running.

Jumping out of gear

Gearchange selector mechanism worn or damaged

Engine/transmiss~ ion mountings loose or perished. Clutch friction surfaces badly worn or Oily. Release mechanism

worn.

Steering or suspension fault (Troubleshooter 5).

Propeller universal

shaft joints

worn.

Rear axle components worn.

106

CLUTCH & TRANSMISSION

Irregular noises

From clutch

On

From gearbox.

depressing

From transmission generally

On releasing pedal

pedal

Whining or grinding noise while running

Release bearing dry, worn or

Clutch driven distorted

plate

damaged. Pedal clutch

pivot or cable requires lubrication.

Incorrect grade of oil in use. Gear teeth or shaft bearings badly worn or damaged.

Crunching noises when changing gear

Synchromesh mechanism damaged.

worn or

pedal Clutch adjustment incorrect.

107

TROUBLESHOOTER

4:

Pedal operation

Excessive

‘Spongy’ feel.

pedal

‘Springy’

travel

Fluid level too low. Rear

brakes

adjusting models

feel

high pedal ssure needed.

need

(early with

manual adjusters).

Leaks in system. Wheel cylinder or caliper leaking. Master cylinder

Air in system (requires bleeding).

leaking. Brake

line or hose

leaking.

or

pre-

New linings/pads not yet bedded in.

Drums/discs

badly

scored or distorted. Master cylinder bolts loose. Brake servo faulty or hose loose or

damaged (T4/1).

Linings, contaminated by dirt, oil, grease or fluid.

HROUBEESHO@ Steering feels light and vague

Steering wheel has

Steering feels stiff and heavy

too much free play

Le Tyre fault

Suspension geometry wrong.

Steering _ balljoints badly worn.

Steering gear worn. Pressures

high. Wrong type.

too

TERS:

Tyre pressures too low or uneven. Suspension balljoints need greas-

ing (early only).

models

Suspension

geometry wrong. Steering gear dry (bellows leaking). Steering column badly distorted.

BRAKES Effect on car

ie Car

pulls

to

one

side.

cease clomes ianeens ere carota Brakes ‘grab’ wheel(s) lock.

Tyre pressures unequal.

Contamination dirt, oil, grease

Drums/linings or pads/discs _con-

fluid.

or

by or

taminated with oil, grease or fluid. Brake backplate, caliper or disc loose. Shoes or pads incorrectly fitted. Differing types of

Brakes bind when pedal released.

Rear brakes/handbrake overadjusted. Master cylinder pushrod out of adjustment. Vent hole in reservoir cap blocked. Master cylinder or wheel cylinder seized.

linings fitted at each side. Suspension anchorages loose.

Drums/discs

badly

worn or distorted.

STEERING/SUSPENSION Wobble/vibration from front wheels

Loose wheelnuts. Damaged wheel.

Wheels/tyres

need

Car settles too low or leans to one side while stationary

Weak or broken coil springs.

Car leans over excessively when cornering

Weak spring(s). Ineffective absorbers.

shock

balancing.

Steering/suspension balljoints worn. Ineffective shock absorbers.

109

TROUBLESHOOTER 6: A fault occurring in any other electrical equipment or accessory not specifically referred to can usually be traced to one of three main causes, i.e. blown fuse; loose or broken connection to power supply or earth; or internal fault in the component concerned.

Fuel and water temperature gauges

Gauge reading

gives

no

Fuel gauge registers ‘Full’ all the time: cable between tank unit and gauge broken or disconnected. Temp. registers

Horn

Works all the time. Horn push earthed or stuck down. Cable from horn to horn push earthed.

Doesn't work

gauge ‘Hot’ all

the time: cable between sender unit and gauge broken or disconnected.

Fuel gauge: cable between tank unit and gauge earthed.

Temp. gauge: cable

between

sender

unit

gauge

and

earthed.

Cable or connection loose, broken or disconnected.

Both

gauges

faulty

simultaneously: check instrument voltage stabiliser plugged into rear of instrument printed circuit.

BEECIRIES

Lights

Don't come on

OF

Come on but go out

again

Work

erratically

flicker on and off

or

| Give very poor light.

Bulbs or lenses dirty or reflectors dirty or corroded. Wrong bulbs installed.

Battery flat (T1/1). Bulb

or

filament

broken.

Light switch faulty.

Light switch faulty.

Lamps earthing (T6/1).

not properly

NOTE: This chart assumes that the battery installed in your car is in good condition and is of the correct specification, and that the terminal connections are clean and tight. A car used frequently for stop-start motoring or for short journeys,

(particularly in winter when lights, heater blower etc are likely to be in use) may need its battery recharged at intervals to keep it serviceable. If an electrical problem occurs, don’t immediately suspect the starter or any other component without first checking that the battery is capable of supplying its demands!

111

CROSS REFERENCE TABLE TROUBLESHOOTER REFERENCE T1/1

Either

charge

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION the

battery

from

a battery

charger, or use jump leads to start the car from another battery, make sure that the lead polarities are correct in both cases, or you may do permanent damage, particularly if your car has an alternator.

T1/2

If the lead’s

loose, disconnect

the battery

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

TROUBLESHOOTER REFERENCE

covered in the 6000-mile Service Schedule.

T1/7

It's easy enough to tighten the attachment bolts if you've got a box or socket spanner of

the right size; if you haven't, it’s not really a D-I-Y job.

T1/8

earth lead then tighten the connection on the starter motor; Make sure the bolt doesn’t turn while you're tightening the nut.

For a temporary

repair a leaking

hose

can

normally be bound up with adhesive tape or, better still, with a hose bandage available for the purpose.

Reconnect the battery earth lead.

T1/3

T1/9

Wait till the system’s cooled down, then top it up. If it happens a second time, get it looked at straight away or you could ruin your engine (if it hasn't happened already). If it’s just a leaking hose you can probably bind it up as in T1/8 (above) to get yourself home.

T2/1

See T1/9.

T2/2

Driving carefully will probably An airline on the radiator core the dirt that’s accumulated; internally use a proprietary

On early 1599 cc engined.models you can prise off the cap on the front end of the starter and use a spanner on the square end

of the starter motor shaft to free the drive gear from the flywheel ring gear. On preengaged starters (recognisable by the solenoid

mounted

on

top

of the

starter

motor) the starter drive doesn't stick in mesh with the flywheel ring gear.

T1/4

Make sure that all the connections are tight, then wipe the leads clean and dry with a lint-free cloth. Use an ignition system

waterproofer (e.g. WD40

T1/5

T2/3

ment coil’s the correct type. Renewal of the

in the 24000

You

may

be

able

to

temporarily (see 11/8) certainly mean a new one.

An ignition coil is a simple item to fit, but make a note of the connections before removing them, and ensure that the replacecondenser is covered Service Schedule.

71/6

pound.

or Damp Start) to

prevent problems in the future.

get you home. will clean out if it’s blocked flushing com-

repair

but

the

it'll

hose

almost

T2/4

Drive more the engine.

T4/1

Provided there's no loss of hydraulic fluid, you'll need a little extra pedal effort for braking but that’s all. It may be possible to temporarily repair the hose as in T1/8.

T6/1

Remove the lamp lenses (see /n An Emergency) and check for signs of rust.

mile

To check the operation of the pump, detach the distributor to coil LT lead (to prevent the

engine firing) and then disconnect the fuel

slowly — but without

labouring

outlet pipe (that’s the one that goes to the

112

carburettor) and operate the pump by turning the engine over on the starter a few times. In either case there should be a steady stream of petrol if the pump’s working properly. Cleaning the fuel pump filter is

Where there’s rust, scrape it off and apply a little Vaseline. Ensure that the screws securing the lamp body to the car are making good contact.

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113

Car Jargon Explained We hope there isn’t much in this Handbook that you can’t understand. However, most of us — particularly if we're trying to learn more about an unfamiliar subject — will sooner or later come across the odd word or phrase

that needs explaining. This alphabetical list should help you understand the language spoken by your garage man, ‘expert’ neighbour, or that inevitable chap in the local...

A Accelerator pump: A device attached to many carburettors which adds a spurt of extra fuel to the carburettor mixture when the accelerator pedal is suddenly pressed down. Additives: Compounds which are added to petrol and lubricating oil to improve their quality and performance. Advance and retard: A system for altering the ignition timing — the time in the firing cycle at which the ignition spark occurs. The spark timing is normally a few degrees of crankshaft revolution before the piston reaches the top of its stroke, and is expressed as so many degrees before top-dead-centre (BTDC). It's altered by devices in the distributor which detect changes in engine speed and load. Broadly speaking, as the engine speeds up the ignition is advanced

(greater angle BTDC) but if there is a heavy engine load the ignition is retarded (smaller angle BTDC). AF: An abbreviation of ‘across flats’, the way in which many nuts, bolt heads and spanners are now

114

radio etc. Antifreeze: A chemical compound cooling system water to lower the which the coolant freezes. Anti-roll bar: A spring-steel transversely across a car which natural

tendency

for

the

car

to

mixed with the temperature at bar mounted counteracts the lean over when

cornering. Aquaplaning: A phrase used to describe the action of a tyre skating across water. Automatic transmission: A type of gearbox which

selects the correct gear ratio automatically according to the engine speed and load.

Balljoint:

A

ball-and-socket

type

joint,

steering and suspension systems, which relative movement in more than one plane.

used

in

permits

identified. It’s preceded by an Imperial or metric unit

Battery condition

of measurement — e.g. + in AF or 11 mm AF. Air cooling: Alternative method of engine cooling in

via the ignition switch to the car battery. Unlike an ammeter (which it’s tending to supersede), it will warn you of impending battery failure. Bearing: Metal or other hard wearing surface against

which no water is used. An engine-driven fan forces air at high velocity over the engine surfaces, which are enclosed by cowling. Normally an o// cooler is incorporated in the air flow to assist the rate of heat loss. Alternator: A device for converting rotating mechanical energy into electrical energy. In modern cars, it has superseded the dynamo for charging the battery because of its much greater efficiency. Ammeter: A device for measuring the current supplied to the battery from the dynamo or alternator, or drawn from the battery by the car lights, wipers,

which

another

indicator: A voltmeter connected

part moves

or rotates, and which

designed (and usually lubricated) resulting friction.

to withstand

is

the

Bendix drive: A device on many types of starter motor which allows the motor to be coupled to the flywheel for engine starting, then disengages when

the engine commences to run. BHP: See Horsepower. Big end: The end of a connecting rod which is attached to the crankshaft. It incorporates a bearing

CAR JARGON and transmits the linear movement of the con-rod to the rotary motion of the crankshaft. Bleed nipple (or valve): A hollow screw with a tapered seat which allows air or fluid to be bled out of a system when it is loosened. Brake caliper: That part of a disc brake system which houses the brake pads and the hydraulic operating pistons. Brake fade:

A temporary

loss of braking efficiency

due to overheating of the brake friction material. Brake pad: That part of a disc brake system which comprises the friction material and a metal backing plate. Brake shoe: That part of a drum brake system which comprises the friction material and a curved metal former. Breather: A device which allows fresh air into a system or allows contaminated air out.

Bucket tappet: A cup (or bucket) shaped piece of metal used in some engines to transmit the rotary camshaft movement to an up-and-down movement for va/ve operation. Bump stop: A hard rubber device used in many suspension systems to prevent the moving parts from lifting the bodyframe during violent suspension movements.

Cc Camber angle: The angle at which the front wheels are set from the vertical, when viewed from the front of the car. Positive camber is the amount in degrees by which the wheels are tilted outwards at the top. Cam follower: A cylindrical piece of metal used to transmit the rotary camshaft movement to an up-anddown movement for va/ve operation. Camshaft: A rotating shaft with lobes or cams used to operate the engine va/ves. Carbon fibre leads: Black, string-like cores in the centre of some spark plug H7 leads, which don't need separate radio and 7V suppressors. Carburettor: A device which is used to mix air and fuel in the correct proportions for all conditions of engine running. There are two main types: those with a number of fixed jets, and those with a single jet with a moving needle in it. In the former type, the different jets come into operation at different conditions of throttle opening, engine speed and engine load; in the latter type, the need/e jet is controlled by a moving piston, the position of which depends on the amount of suction in the engine inlet manifold. Castor angle: The angle between the front wheel pivot points and a vertical line when viewed from the side of the car. Positive castor is when the axis is

EXPLAINED

inclined rearwards.

Centrifugal

advance:

System

of ignition advance

and retard incorporated in many distributors in which weights rotating on a shaft alter the ignition timing according to engine speed. Choke: This has two common meanings. It is used to describe the device which shuts off some of the air in a carburettor during cold starting, and may be either manually or automatically operated. It's also used as a general term to describe the carburettor throttle bore. Clutch: A friction device which allows two rotating devices to be coupled together smoothly, without the need for either rotating part to stop. Coil spring: A spiral of spring steel used in many Suspension systems. Combustion chamber: Shaped area in the cy/inder head into which the fuel/air mixture is compressed by the piston and in which combustion of the mixture is effected by the spark plug. Compression ratio (CR): A term used to describe the amount by which the fuel/air mixture is compressed, and expressed as a number. For example, an 8.5 : 1 compression ratio means that the volume of fuel/air when the piston is at the bottom ot its stroke is 8.5 times that when the piston is at the

top of its stroke. Compression tester: A special type of pressure gauge screwed into the spark plug hole which shows the cylinder compression when the engine is turning but not firing. Condenser (capacitor): A device in the d/stributor which stores electrical energy and prevents excessive sparking at the contact breaker points.

Connecting

rod

(con-rod):

Rod

in

the

engine

connecting the piston to the crankshaft. Constant velocity (CV) joint: A joint

used

driveshafts,

shaft

where

the

speed

of the

input

in

is exactly the same as the speed of the output shaft at any angle of rotation. This does not occur in ordinary universal joints.

Contact breaker: The device in the d/stributor which comprises the electrical points (or contacts), and a cam which opens and closes them to operate the HT electrical circuit which provides the spark at the spark plug. Crossflow cylinder head: A cylinder head in which the inlet and exhaust va/ves are on opposite sides. Crossply tyre: A tyre whose construction is such that

the weave of the fabric material layers is running diagonally in alternately opposite directions to a line around the circumference. Cubic capacity: The total volume within the cy/inders which is swept by the p/stons. Cylinder head: That part of the engine which

contains the va/ves and associated operating gear.

CAR JARGON EXPLAINED D

wheel. Dual

Damper:See shock absorber. Dashpot:

An oil-filled cy/inder and piston used as a

damping device in SU and Zenith/Stromberg CD type carburettors. Dead axle (beam axle): The simplest form of axle, comprising a horizontal member attached to the chassis-frame by springs. This is used for the rear axle on some front-wheel-drive cars.

Decarbonizing

(‘decoking’):

deposits engine.

the

from

Removal

combustion

of all carbon

chambers

of

an

De Dion axle: A rear axle comprising a cranked tube attached to the wheel hubs, with a separately mounted differential gear and driveshafts. Suspension is normally through co// springs between the wheel

circuit

brakes:

A

hydraulic

braking

system

comprising two separate fluid circuits, so that if one circuit becomes inoperative, braking power is still available from the other circuit at a reduced efficiency. Dwell angle: The number of degrees of distributor cam rotation during which the contact breaker points are closed during the ignition cycle of one cylinder. The angle is altered by adjusting the points gap, and is a more accurate way of setting-up the /gnition

system. Dynamo: A device for converting rotating mechanical energy into electrical energy. This is a heavier, less efficient, form of generator than the a/ternator, and has largely been superseded by it during recent years.

hubs and chassis frame. Diaphragm: A stationary flexible membrane used in items such as fuel pumps. The diaphragm spring used in clutches is somewhat similar but is made from spring steel. Diesel engine: An engine which relies upon the heat generated when compressing air to ignite the fuel, and which therefore doesn’t need a spark plug. Diesel

engines

have much higher compression ratios than petrol engines, normally in the region of 20: 1.

Differential: A system of gears (generally known as a crownwheel and pinion) which allows the torque from

the propeller shaft to be applied to the driving wheels. The torque is divided proportionately between the driving wheels to permit one wheel to turn faster than the other if required, for example during cornering. DIN: This stand for Deutsche Industrie Norm

(roughly

equivalent

to

the

British

Standards

Institution) and lays down international standards for measuring output, performance, etc., of motor vehicles.

Disc brake: A braking system where a rotating disc is clamped between hydraulically operated friction pads. Distributor: A collective term used to describe the contact breaker, advance and retard mechanisms, and associated parts of the /gnition system. Doughnut: A term used to describe the flexible rubber coupling used in some driveshafts. Driveshaft: Name usually applied to the shaft (normally incorporating universal or constant velocity joints) which transmits the drive from a transaxle to one wheel; more commonly found in front-wheeldrive cars. Drive train: A collective

term

used to describe

the

gearbox, propeller shaft, final drive and half-shafts of a front engine/rear wheel drive car. Drum

116 running

brake: A brake with friction linings on ‘shoes’,

inside

a cylindrical

drum

attached

to the

E Earth strap: A flexible electrical connection between the battery and vehicle earth, or the engine/gearbox and chassis frame, to provide the return current-flow path in the electrical system. Electrode: An electrical terminal or terminals, across which a spark distributor cap.

occurs

e.g.,

in

Electrolyte: A current-conducting and sulphuric acid, which battery.

a

spark

plug

or

solution of water

is the liquid inside the car

Electronic ignition: An ignition system incorporating electronic components which can produce a much greater spark voltage than in conventional systems. Emission control: The prevention or reduction of the emission

into the atmosphere

of noxious fumes

and

gases from the engine and fuel tank of a motor vehicle. Required to varying degrees by the laws of different countries, it is effected by design and by special devices. Epicyclic gears (planetary gears): A gear system used in many automatic transmissions where there is a centre ‘sun’ wheel around which smaller ‘planet’ gears inside a ‘planet carrier’ rotate. Exhaust gas analyser: An instrument used for the measurement of pollutants (mainly carbon monoxide) in an exhaust system. Expansion tank: A container used in many modern

cooling systems to collect the overflow from the car's radiator as the coolant heats up and expands.

F

Filter: A device for extracting foreign particles from air or oil. Final drive: A collective term (often expressed as a

CAR JARGON gearing

ratio) for the crownwheel

and

pinion

(see

Differential). Flat engine:

Form

of engine design

in which

the

EXPLAINED

system. Hydraulic: A term used to describe the operation of a system by means of fluid pressure.

cylinders are positioned horizontally, usually with an equal number each side of a central crankshaft.

Float chamber: That part of a carburettor which contains a float and needle va/ve for controlling the fuel level. Flywheel:

A

heavy

rotating

crankshaft used to smooth

disc

attached

to the

out the pulsating output

from the cylinders.

Four

stroke

describe

(cycle):

A

the four operating

common

term

used

to

strokes of a piston in a

conventional car engine. These are: (1) Induction — drawing in the fuel/air mixture as the piston goes down; (2) Compression of the fuel/air mixture as the piston rises; (3) Power stroke where the piston is forced down after the fuel/air mixture has been ignited by the spark plug and (4) Exhaust stroke where the piston rises and pushes the burnt gases out of the cylinder. During these operations, the inlet and exhaust va/ves are opened and closed at the correct moment to allow the fuel/air mixture in, the exhaust gases out, or to provide a gas-tight compression chamber. Fuel injection: A method of injecting fuel into an engine. Used in Diese/ engines, and also on some petrol engines as a replacement for the carburettor.

Ignition system: The electrical system which provides the spark to ignite the air/fuel mixture in the engine. Normally it comprises the battery, ignition

coil, distributor, (contact breaker and condenser), ignition switch, spark p/ugs and wiring. Ignition timing: See Advance and retard. Inertia

reel:

Automatic

type

permits the wearer to move

of safety

belt which

freely in normal use but

which locks to give restraint on sensing either sudden deceleration of the car or sudden movement of the

wearer. In-line engine: Engine in which the cylinders are positioned in one row as distinct from being e.g. a flat or vee formation.

J Jet: A calibrated nozzle or orifice in a carburettor through which fuel is drawn for mixing with air. Jump leads: Heavy electric cables fitted with clips to enable a vehicle’s battery to be connected to an external one for emergency starting.

G Gasket:

Compressible

material

used

between

two

metal surfaces to make a leakproof joint. Gearbox: A group of gears and shafts installed in a metal housing. Physically, this is positioned between the clutch and the differential, and is used to multiply the engine torque. Generator: See a/ternator and dynamo.

H Half-shaft: A rotating shaft, two of which are used to transmit the drive from the differentia/ to the wheels. Hardy-Spicer joint (Hooke’s or Cardan joint): See Universal joint. Helical gears: Gears in which the teeth are cut at a slant across the circumference to give smoother meshing and quieter running. Horsepower:A measurement of the rate of doing work. Where brake horsepower (BHP) is referred to, it’s the amount of work required to stop a moving body. HT: Abbreviation of high tension (meaning high voltage). Used on connection with the ignition

K Kerb weight: The weight of a car, unladen but ready to be driven, i.e. with enough fuel, oil etc. to travel an arbitrary distance.

Kickdown: A device used on automatic transmissions which allows a lower gear to be selected by flooring the accelerator. Kingpin: A device which allows the front wheels of a car to swivel.

L Laminated windscreen: A windscreen which has a thin plastic layer sandwiched between two layers of toughened glass. Its advantage is that it doesn't shatter or craze over when hit.

Leading shoe: Brake shoe of which the leading end (the one moved by the operating cy/inder) is reached first by a given point on the drum during normal forward rotation. A simple single-cylinder drum brake

will have one leading and one trailing (the opposite) shoe.

117

CAR JARGON

EXPLAINED

Leaf spring: A spring commonly used on cars with a live axle, comprising several long steel plates clamped together. Little end: The smaller end of the connecting rod which is attached to the p/ston. Live axle: An axle through which power is transmitted to the rear wheels. Loom: A complete vehicle wiring system, or section thereof (e.g. front loom) comprising all the necessary cables of predetermined colours and lengths to wire

up the various circuits. LT: Abbreviation of low tension (meaning low voltage). Used in connection with /gnition systems.

OHC (overhead cam): Describes an engine in which the camshaftis situated above the cylinder head, and operates the valve gear directly without the need for pushrods.

OHV (Overhead valve): Describes an engine which has its va/ves_ in the cylinder head (as in OHC) but suggests that the valve gear is operated via pushrods from a camshaft situated lower in the engine. Practically all modern car engines are OHV but are not necessarily OHC. Oil cooler: Small radiator fitted in the lubricating oil circuit and sited in a cooling airflow to dissipate heat from the oil. Used mainly in higher-performance

engines.

M MacPherson strut: An independent front suspension system where the swivelling, springing and shock absorbing action of the wheel is dealt with by a single

.

Overdrive: A device coupled to a car gearbox which raises the output gear ratio above the normal 1 : 1 of top gear. Also used to describe a top gear ratio of greater than 1 : 1 found in some cars. Oversteer: A tendency for a car to turn more tightly into a corner than intended.

assembly.

Manifold: The device used for ducting the air/fuel mixture to the engine (inlet manifold), or the exhaust gases from the engine (exhaust manifold). Master cylinder: A cylinder containing a piston and hydraulic fluid, directly coupled to a foot pedal (e.g. brake or clutch master cylinder). \t's used for transmitting pressure to the brake or c/utch operating mechanism. Metallic paint: Paint finish incorporating minute particles of metal to give added lustre to the colour. Multigrade: Lubricating oil whose viscosity covers that of several monograde oils, making it suitable for use over a wider range of operating conditions.

P PCV (Positive crankcase ventilation): A system which allows fumes and vapours which build up in the crankcase to be drawn into the engine for burning. Pinion: A gear with a small number of teeth which meshes with one having a larger number of teeth. Pinking: A metallic noise from the engine often caused by the /gnition timing being too far advanced. The noise is the result of pressure waves which cause the cylinder walls to vibrate, when the ignited fuel/air is compressed.

Piston:

N Needle

bearing: Type of bearing in which needle or

cone-shaped rollers are employed around the inner circumference, often used to reduce the space

needed for the bearing. Needle valve: A component of the carburettor which

restricts the flow of fuel or fuel/air mixture according to its position relative to an orifice orjet. Negative earth: Electrical system (now almost universally adopted) in which the negative terminal of the car battery is connected to the vehicle body, the polarity of all other electrical equipment being determined by this.

O Octane

118

rating:

A

scale

Cylindrical

component

which

slides

in a

closely-fitting metal tube or cy/inder and transmits pressure. The pistons in an engine, for example, compress the fuel/air mixture, transmit the combustion power to the crankshaft, and exhaust the

burnt gases. Piston ring: Hardened metal ring which is a spring fit in a groove running round the piston to ensure a close fit to the cy/inder wall. Positive earth: The opposite of negative earth. Propeller shaft: The shaft which transmits the drive from the gearbox to the rear axle in front engine/rear wheel drive cars. Pushrod: A rod which is moved up and down by the rotary motion of the camshaft and operates the rocker

arm in an OHV engine.

Q rating

introduced

British Standards Institution for grading petrol.

by the

Quarter light: A triangular window often mounted in the front door of a car.

CAR JARGON Quartz-halogen bulb: A bulb with a quartz envelope (instead of glass) and a tungsten filament, and filled with one of the halogen group of gases (often iodine).

Semi-trailing arm: A common rear suspension pivoted.

EXPLAINED

form of independent

which allows the wheel carrier to be

Servo: A device for multiplying the normal effort applied to a control. With a brake servo, this uses the

R Rack and pinion: Simplest form of steering mechanism which uses a pinion gear to move a toothed rack. Radial ply tyre: A tyre in which the tread plies are arranged laterally, at right angles to the circumferential plane. Radiator: Cooling device, situated in an air flow and comprising a system of fine tubes and fins for rapid heat dissipation, through which engine coolant is passed.

Radius arms (rods): Locating arms sometimes used with a /ive ax/e to positively locate it in the fore-andaft direction. Recirculating ball steering: A derivation of worm and nut steering, where the steering shaft motion is

transmitted to the steering linkage by balls running in the groove of a worm gear. Rev-counter: See tachometer. Rocker arm: A lever which rocks on a central pivot, one end is moved up and down by the camshaft action and the other end operates the inlet or exhaust valve. Rotor arm: A rotating arm in the distributor which distributes the H7 spark voltage to the correct spark plug. Running on: A tendency for an engine to keep on running after the ignition has been switched off; it’s often caused by a badly maintained engine, or use of an unsuitable grade of fuel.

S SAE: Society of Automotive Engineers (of America). The SAE classification of oils is well known but, as with D/N standards, SAE covers a wide range of measuring output, performance, etc, of motor vehicles. Safety rim: A special wheel rim shape which prevents a deflated tyre from rolling off the wheel. Sealed beam: A sealed headlamp unit where the filament is an integral part and cannot be renewed separately. Although much more expensive than separate bulbs, the illumination does not deteriorate due to contamination. Semi-elliptic spring: A /eaf spring used for many car rear suspension

systems.

suction created in the engine inlet manifold to act on a diaphragm/pushrod for additional braking effort; it’s attached to the brake hydraulic master cylinder.

Shock absorber: A device for damping out the upand-down movement of a car when the suspension hits a bump in the road.

Sonic-id!e carburettor: A carburettor where the air used for the fuel/air mixture at idle speeds is mixed in a special by-pass tube which increases the drop. The velocity of the mixture increases the speed of sound and at the same time it very turbulent which improves the atomization.

pressure to above becomes fuel/air

Spark plug: A device with a ceramic insulator and two electrodes on a common metal body which

screws part-way into the engine combustion chamber. When the HT voltage is applied to the plug terminal, a spark jumps the air-gap at the electrodes. Squab: Another name for a seat cushion. Steel-braced tyre: Tyre in which an

extra ply containing steel cords is incorporated to give added strength. Steering arm (knuckle): Short arm on the rear face of the front stub ax/e to which the steering linkage connects.

Steering rack: See Rack and pinion. Stroboscopic light: A light powered from the engine ignition system which is used for checking the ignition timing when the engine is running (i.e.

dynamically). Stroke: The total travel of the p/ston in the bore. Stub axle: A short axle which carries the wheel only. Sub-frame: A small frame or chassis which carries the suspension, and which in turn is connected to the car body. Sump: The main oil container at the lowest part of an engine. Suppressor: a device which is used to suppress or damp-out electrical interference caused by the ignition system, or generator, wiper motor etc. Suspension: A general term used to describe the links, springs and dampers with which the car body is suspended on the wheels.

Swing axle: A suspension arm which is pivoted near the centre-line of the car, and which gives the wheel a vertical swinging action about that pivot point. Synchromesh: A device in a gearbox which synchronizes the speed of one gear shaft with another to produce smooth, noiseless engagement of the relative gears.

CAR JARGON

EXPLAINED

T

Transmission: A general term for a gearbox, but very

often used as an alternative for a transaxle. Tachometer: Also known as a rev counter, this indicates the engine speed in revolutions per minute

(rpm). Tappet: A term nowadays widely misused to refer to the adjustable part of the valvegear of an engine. True tappets are found only in the valvegear of older engines. Thermostat: A device which is sensitive to changes’ in engine temperature, and opens up an additional

path for coolant to flow when the engine has warmed up. Tie-rod (track rod): A general term for a rod which provides

location for

a component,

or between

two

components (as with steering linkage). Timing chain: Metal flexible-link chain engaging on sprocket wheels and driving the camshaft from the crankshaft in an OHV engine. Timing marks: Marks normally found on the crankshaft pulley or flywhee/ and used for setting the ignition firing point with respect to a particular piston. Toe-in/toe-out: The amount by which the front wheels point inwards or outwards, expressed either as an angle or linear measurement. Top dead centre (tdc): The point at which a piston is at the top of its stroke. Torque: The turning effort generated by any rotating

part. Torque converter: A ccupling where the driving torque is transmitted through oil. At low speeds there is very little transference of torque from the input to the output; as the input shaft speed increases, the direction of fluid flow within a system of vanes alters and torque from the input impeller is transferred to

the output turbine. The higher the input speed, the closer the output speed approaches it, until they are virtually the same. Torsion bar: A spring-steel bar which turns about its own

axis,

and

is used

in some

independent

Suspension systems.

fragments or will craze over but remain intact. A zone-toughened windscreen has a zone in front of the driver which crazes into larger parts to reduce the loss of visibility which occurs with toughened windscreens, but is otherwise similar. Track rod: A rod which connects the steering arms to the steering gear and/or steering idler gear. arm:

A

form

of independent

suspension

where the wheel is attached to a swinging arm, and is mounted to the rear of the arm pivot.

Transaxle: A form of combined gearbox and axle from which two shafts transmit the drive to the

120

wheels.

mixing and, although

not a feature of the simplest

designs, in some versions a rotary or reed va/ve_ incorporated to help achieve this.

is

U Understeer: A tendency for a car to go straight on when turned into a corner. Universal joint: A joint that can swivel in any direction whilst at the same time transmitting torque. It's commonly used in propeller shafts and driveshafts, but is not suitable for some applications because the input and output shaft speeds are not the same at all positions of angular rotation. The type in common use is known as a Hardy-Spicer, Hooke’s or

Cardan joint. Unsprung weight: That supported by the springs. Upper cylinder lubricant intended to be added to a providing extra lubrication

part of a car which

is not

(UCL): A type of light oil car’s fuel with the object of for the cy/inder walls.

Vv

front

Toughened windscreen: A windscreen which will shatter in a particular way to produce blunt-edged

Trailing

Two-stroke (cycle): A common term used to describe the operation of an engine where each downward piston stroke is a power stroke. The fuel/air mixture is ported into the crankcase where it’s compressed by the descending piston and ‘pumped’ through another port into the combustion chamber. As the piston rises, the mixture is compressed and ignited, which forces the piston down. The burnt gases flow from the exhaust port, but the piston is now compressing a further charge in.the crankcase which repeats the cycle. The engine needs careful design to prevent the unburnt and burnt gases from

Vacuum advance: System of igntion advance and retard used in certain distributors where the vacuum in the engine intake manifo/d is transmitted to the distributor and acts on a diaphragm to alter the ignition timing according to throttle position. Vacuum gauge: A device which indicates the amount of vacuum or suction in the inlet manifold. Valve: A device which opens or closes to permit or

stop gas flow into the engine. Vee engine: Design in which the cylinders of an engine are set in two banks forming a V when viewed from one end. A V8, for example, consists of two such rows of four cylinders each.

Venturi: A streamlined restriction in the carburettor throttle bore which causes a low pressure to occur; this sucks fuel into the air stream to form a vapour

CAR JARGON

EXPLAINED

suitable for combustion. Viscosity: A term used to describe the resistance of a fluid to flow. When associated with lubricating oil it’s given an SAE number, 10 being a very light oil and 140 being a very heavy oil. Voltage regulator: A device which regulates the generator output to a predetermined level. For most alternator systems this is an integral part of the alternator itself, and therefore mainly applicable to dynamo systems. Regulators on later cars also have a device to regulate the charging current as well as the voltage.

Ww Wankel engine: A rotary engine originally developed

by Felix Wankel which has a triangular shaped rotor in an epitrochoidal housing (approximates in shape to a broad-waisted figure of eight). The engine has never proved popular in production cars in the UK.

Wheel balancing: Adding weights at the rim of a car wheel so that there are no out-of-balance forces. Wishbone: An A-shaped suspension link, pivoted at the base of the A, and carrying a wheel at the apex. Normally mounted in an approximately horizontal plane. Worm and nut steering: A steering system where the lower end of the steering column has a coarse screw thread on which a nut runs. The nut is attached to a spindle which carries the drop arm which, in turn, moves the steering linkage.

121

CONVERSION Distance 25.400 0.305 1.609 0.039 3.281 0.621

Inches (in)

Feet (ft) Miles

Millimetres (mm) Metres (m) Kilometres (km)

Millimetres (mm) Metres (m) Kilometres (km) Inches (in) Feet (ft) Miles

Capacity Inches, cubic (cu in/in3) Fluid ounce, imperial (fl oz) Fluid ounce, US (fl oz) Pi.1ts, imperial (imp pt) Quarts, imperial (imp qt) Quarts, imperial (imp qt) Quarts, US (US qt) Quarts, US (US qt) Gallons, imperial (imp gal) Gallons, imperial (imp ga!)

Gallons, US (US gai) Gallons, US (US gal)

Centimetres, cubic (cc/em3) Centimetres, cubic (cc/em?) Centimeters, cubic (cc/em3) Litres (L) Litres (L) Litres (L) Litres (L) Litres (L)

Litres (L) Litres (L)

16.387 35.51 29.57 0.568 1.1365 1.201 0.9463 0.8326 4.546 1.201 3.7853 0.8326 0.061 0.02816 0.03381 28.16 33,81 1.760 0.8799 1.0567 0.220 Xx & xX xxx KK KKK RRR0.264 KK

Centimetres, cubic (cc/em$) Centimetres, cubic (cc/cem3)

Centimetres, cubic (cc/em3) Litres (L) Litres (L) Quart, US (US qt)

Litres (L) Quarts, imperial (imp qt) Litres (L) Gallons, US (US gal)

Litres (L) Gallons, imperial (imp a Inches, cubic (cu in/in?) Fluid ounces, imperial (fl oz) Fluid ounces, US (fl oz) Fluid ounces, imperial (fl oz) Fluid ounces, US (ff 6z)

Pints, imperial (imp pt) Quarts, imperial (imp qt) Quarts, US (US qt) Gallons, imperial (imp gal)

Gallons, US (US gal)

Area Inches, square (in24gq in)

Feet,square (ft2/sq ft) Millimetres, square (mm2/ sq mm) Metres, square ‘m2/sq m)

645.160

Millimetres, square (mm2/

0.093 0.002

sq mm) Metres, square (m2/sq m) Inches, square (in2/sq in)

Xx &&k x 10.764

Feet square (ft2/sq ft)

Weight Ounces (oz) Pounds (Ibs) Grammes (g)

Kilogrammes (kg) Kilogrammes (kg)

122

Xxx&

28.350 0.454 0.035 2.205 35,274

Grammes (qg) Kilogrammes (kg) Ounces (oz) Pounds (Ibs) Ounces (oz)

FACTORS Pressure Poundsfgq in (psi/lb/sq in/

0.070

Kilogrammes/sq cm

0.068

(kg/sq cm) Atmospheres (atm)

14.223

Poundsfsq in (psi/lb/sq in/

F