Haynes Vauxhall Chevette Owners Workshop Manual 0856962856, 9780856962851

Citation preview

a ee e B a t e eee ty Neneetn eens

Se

Sree as ahi ees

=

;

ae

;

Se

aye

as

st re

Poe

ae

:=

SoS

atest

Paine

:

= =

f Sate

a ees

:

ier

ae

ienaeelataeee

ss aes See

=e

5

A

ni Sen

ioe.ent

ae

75. Suit. 1984

Ss

WITHDRAW

|. ANCASHIRE LIEZARIEs | MONTHLY LOAN NOMLIGHIX2 LOAN FROM Z |

AUTHOR

HAYes,

saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads. The book has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the *rious Components so that their layout can be understood. Then the *«s are described and photographed in a step-by-step sequence so that ~/en a novice can cope with complicated work. The jobs are described assuming only normal tools are available, and not special tools unless absolutely necessary. However, a reasonable outfit of tools will be a worthwhile investment. Many special workshop tools produced by the makers merely speed the work, and in these cases guidance is given as to how to do the job without them. On a very few occasions, the manufacturer's special tool is essential to prevent damage to components, then its use is described. Though it might be possible to borrow the tool, such’ Work may have to be entrusted to the official agent.

To avoid labour costs a garage will often give a cheaper repair by fitting a reconditioned assembly. The home mechanic can be helped by this book to diagnose the fault and make a repair using only a minor spare part.

The manufacturer's official workshop manuals are written for their trained staff, and so assume special knowledge; therefore detail is left out. This book is written for the owner, and so goes into detail.

Using the manual The manual is divided into twelve Chapters. Each Chapter is divided into numbered Sections which are headed in bold type between horizontal lines. Each Section consists of serially numbered paragraphs.

There are two types of illustration: (1) Figures which are numbered according to Chapter and sequence of occurrence in that Chapter. (2) photographs which have a reference number on their caption. All photographs apply to the Chapter in which they occur so that the reference figure pinpoints the pertinent Section and paragraph number. Procedures, once described in the text, are not normally repeated. If it is necessary to refer to another Chapter the reference will be given in Chapter number and Section number thus: Chapter 1/16. If it is considered necessary to refer to a particular paragraph in another Chapter the reference is given as Chapter, Section and Paragraph number eg; Chaptet 1/5:5). Cross references given without

use of the word ‘Chapter’ apply to Section and/or paragraphs in the same Chapter (eg; ‘see Section 8’ means also ‘in this Chapter’). When the left or right side of the car is mentioned it is as if one is seated in the driver’s seat looking forward. It should be noted that apart from the engine and gearbox (unified threads) all of the fixings in the Chevette are metric. Whilst every care is taken to ensure that the information in this manual is correct, no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

Contents Chapter

Section

Introductory sections

Buying spare parts Routine maintenance

1

Removal Dismantling Examination

2

3

4

Engine

Cooling system

Carburation; fuel and exhaust systems

Ignition system

Page 5 6

21 27 28

Draining/flushing/filling Antifreeze mixture Radiator

30 31 31

Thermostat Water pump Fan belt

31 33 34

Air cleaner Fuel pump Fuel tank

35 37 37

Choke and accelerator controls Carburettor Manifolds and exhaust system

39 41 44

Contact breaker points Condenser

47 AT

Ignition timing Coil

48 49

Distributor

48

Spark plugs

50

and renovation

Adjustment Cable renewal Pedal

53 53 53

6

Gearbox

Removal

56

8

9

Rear axle

Braking system

10 Electrical system

I

8 9

Reassembly Installation Adjustment after overhaul

Clutch

Propeller shaft

Lubrication chart Dimensions, weights and capacities

Page

15 17 18

5

7

Section

and installation

Removal, inspection and renovation Release bearing ~~ Refitting clutch

Countershaft servicing

54 54 55

62

Dismantling

59

Reverse pinion and gear casing

62

Mainshaft servicing Input shaft servicing

59 62

Reassembly Extension housing rear oil seal

63 65

Universal joints — testing for wear

66

Propeller shaft — removal and installation

67

Axleshafts (halfshafts)

68

Rear axle —

Pinion oil seal renewal

71

removal and installation

Disc pads Rear brake shoes Disc caliper Brake disc Operating (slave) cylinders

74 +~ Master cylinder 75 ~~ Flexible hoses ~=Bleeding 76 : ~Handbrake 77 ~+Vacuum servo unit 77

Battery Alternator Starter motor Fuses

Switches 85 87 —_ Lights Windscreen wiper 89 Wiring diagrams , 92 __..

73

78 81 81 81 82 93 98 101 108

121 Steering 115 Front suspension 126 Wheels and tyres 119 Rear suspension a ————————————————————————————— N ——— N ———————A ——— 139 ~=—‘Ta ilgate 127 Mai nte nan ce fitt and ings Bod 12 ywork 139 Bonnet 127. Repairs 142 Heat er 133 Doors 11 Suspension and steering

Each Chapter contains ‘Specifications’, ‘General description’ and ‘Fault diagnosis’ as applicable Metric conversion tables Index

Vauxhall Chevette L

Vauxhall Chevette GL

Introduction to the Vauxhall Chevette The Chevette is a three door ‘Hatchback’ saloon, sharing many components with the Opel Kadettg and the other GM ‘T’ cars. The engine is the same as that used in the smaller capacity Vivas. General mechanical layout of the Chevette is conventional. Four models are available at present: standard, ‘E’, ‘L’ and ‘GL’ — the latter having more luxurious trim and additional accessories and the

‘E' being a low priced economy model. The Vauxhall Chevette has been well received by the motoring public, and is obviously a well designed car. Together with its pleasing the Chevette offers excellent performance and fuel performance economy and a very practical Saloon cum Estate capability.

s r e b m u n n o i t a c i f i t n e d i e l c i h e v & s t r a p e Ordering spar Vehicle identification numbers

Buying spare parts Spare part$ are available from many sources, for example: Vauxhall garages, Other garages and accessory shops, and motor factors. Our advice regarding spare parts is as follows: Officially appointed Vauxhall garages - This is the best source of parts which are peculiar to your car and otherwise not generally available (eg; complete cylinder heads, internal gearbox components, ld shou you h whic at e plac only the also is It . etc) trim rior inte es, badg s ent pon com all uxh -Va non : anty warr r unde still is car your if s part buy may invalidate the warranty. To be sure of obtaining the correct parts it and ne engi s car' your eman stor the give to y ssar nece be ys alwa will tive posi for g alon part old the take to , ible poss if and , ber chassis num ory fact a on e labl avai are s part y man that er emb Rem identification. It n! clea be ys alwa ld shou rned retu s part any exchange scheme car your on sts iali spec the to ight stra go to e sens d goo es mak y ousl obvi you. ly supp to ed ipp equ best are they for part of type for this ces pla d goo y ver en oft are se The ps sho ory ess acc and s age Other gar r you of ce nan nte mai the for ded nee ts en on mp to buy material and co up chtou , ase gre and oils ts, bel fan bs, bul gs, plu rk spa s, car (eg; oil filter e hav y all usu es, ori ess acc l era gen sell o als y The ). etc paint, filler paste nd fou be en oft can and ces pri er low rge cha rs, hou convenient opening not far from home. t an rt po im re mo the of all ck sto l wil s tor fac od Go Motor factors , ts en on mp co tch clu ; (eg y ckl qui y vel ati rel out components which wear s oe sh s/ al se s/ se ho s/ pe pi s/ er nd li cy ke bra s, tem sys t us ha ex pistons, valves,

and pads etc). Motor components

amount

on

a part

Modifications are a continuing and unpublished process in vehicle manufacture quite apart from major model changes. Spare parts manuals and lists are compiled upon a numerical basis, the individual to correct identification of the being essential vehicle numbers component required. When ordering spare parts, always give as much information as possible. Quote the car model, year of manufacture, body and engine numbers, as appropriate. The car identification plate is fitted on the upper surface of the instrument panel and is legible through the windscreen. A second identification plate is affixed to the side of the engine compartment and bears the following information: Model Market Job no. Paint code Trim code Option code

d ne io it nd co re or w ne e vid pro en oft l wil s factor exchange

basis - this can

save

a considerable

of money.

Car identification plate located on instrument panel

t ke ac br or at rn te al to nt ce ja ad er Location of engine numb bey

Under bonnet identification plate

|

Routine maintenance Maintenance is essential for ensuring safety and desirable for the purpose of getting the best in terms of performance and economy from the car. Over the years the need for periodic lubrication - oiling, greasing and so on - has been drastically reduced if not totally eliminated. This has unfortunately tended to lead some owners to think that because no such action is required the items either no longer exist or will last for ever. This is a serious delusion. It follows therefore that the largest initial element of maintenance is visual examination. This may lead to repairs or renewals.

In the summary

given here the ‘essential for safety’ items are shown

in bold type. These must be attended to at the regular frequencies shown in order to avoid the possibility of accidents and loss of life. Other neglect, results in unreliability, increased running costs, more rapid wear and more rapid depreciation of the vehicle in general.

SE ee ee ee Every 250 miles (400 km) travelled or weekly

a

Steering Check the tyre pressures, including the spare wheel. Examine tyres for wear or damage. Is steering smooth and accurate?

Brakes Check reservoir fluid level. Is there any fall off in braking efficiency? Try an emergency stop. Is adjustment necessary?

Lights, wipers and horns Do all bulbs work Are the headlamp ne ee Do the wipers and Check windscreen

at the front and rear? beams aligned properly? horns work? washer fluid level.

Engine Check the sump oil level and top-up if required. Check the radiator coolant level and top-up if required. Check the battery electrolyte level and top-up to the level of the plates with distilled water as needed.

Topping up the engine oil

Location and marking of engine oil dipstick

Routine maintenance

7

Every 6000 miles (9600 km) or at six monthly intervals

Check front hub bearing adjustment. Check disc pads and brake shoes for friction material wear. Adjust clutch free-travel Change engine oil and renew oil filter element. Check and if necessary, top-up gearbox oil level. Check and if necessary, top-up rear axle oil level. Check brake hydraulic system for leaks, damaged pipes etc. Examine thickness of tyre treads. Check and adjust, if necessary, front wheel alignment. Examine exhaust system for corrosion and leakage. Lubricate all controls and linkages. Check for wear in steering gear and balljoints and condition rubber bellows, dust excluders and flexible coupling. Clean and adjust spark plugs. Clean and adjust contact breaker points and lubricate. Top-up carburettor damper. Lubricate door locks and hinges.

of

Every 12000 miles (19300 km) or annually Inspect condition of wiper blades and renew if necessary. Inspect security of seat belts and anchorages. Check antifreeze strength and top-up if necessary. Clean corrosion from battery terminals and apply petroleum jelly. Check fanbelt tension and adjust if necessary. Renew spark plugs. Renew contact breaker points and check ignition timing. Clean fuel pump filter. Clean crankcase breather valve hose. Adjust valve clearances. Renew air cleaner element.

Every 24000 miles (38600 km) or at two yearly intervals Dismantle, clean and relubricate front hub bearings.

Check and adjust if necessary the headlamp alignment. 'nspect and

if necessary,

renew

any suspension

bushes which

have

deteriorated or worn. Check torque of all suspension bolts and nuts e. ur xt mi ze ee fr ti an th wi em st sy g in ol co ill ref d Drain, flush an

Every 48000 miles (77000 km) Bleed brake hydraulic system check and if necessary, renew

of old fluid, renew all rubber seals, any damaged pipes and refill system

with clean fluid. t. en id ev if t af sh w ne re d an ar we r fo ts Check propeller shaft join w ne y pl ap d an n ea cl d an n io os rr co or st ru r fo Check underbody protective sealant where necessary.

Distributor lubrication points 7 2 3

Felt pad Baseplate hole Cam lubricator

(grease only)

Jacking points be y ma r ca e th th wi ed li pp su ck ja e When changing a roadwheel, th e th w lo be d te ca lo e ar h ic wh ts in po g in used, inserting it into the jack ck ja a e us t, ou d ie rr ca g in be e ar s ir pa re or bodysills. Where maintenance

ng si ca le ax ar re e th or r be em located either under the front crossm th wi ck ja e th nt me le pp su ys wa al r, tubes. Before getting under the ca s. er mb me e am fr dy bo e th r de un ed on ti axle stands or blocks posi

;

ae

,

| rae

w=

=

Recommended

tl

lubricants and fluids

Component

Engine (1)

:

Castrol Product

a

Gearbox (2) _ ...

cele tL EA ae ns

aes

Se

be

Castrol GTX

Fe

ste

¥

ca

ae

$s.

es

Castrol Hypoy (90 EP)

a ...

Wes ...

ta a

a fe

ie nee

ee ..

Castrol Hypoy (90 EP) Castrol LM Grease

sees ss 0s sss se

we ws ae

Ses Castrol LM Grease Ss =~ Castrol Castrolite ee Castrol Girling Universal Brake and Clutch Fluid

Distributor spindle and advance mechanism (8)

if

Distributor cam (9) Chassis (general) aes

che

Rear axle (3) * an Front wheel bearings (4)

Steering gear (5) 0s, Carburettor damper (6). Brake master cylinder (7) ...

wee aye hor

Hinges, locks, pivots, etc...

see

Castrol GTX

ee a

ee oe

ae ee es:

Castrol LM Grease or Vaseline Castrol LM Grease

ne

one

“i:

Castrol GTX or Everyman

Note: the above are general recommendations. vehicle usage. Consult the operators handbook * Where an axle has to be topped-up or drained gears are fitted, use only the special lubricant

ove

Lubrication requirements vary from territory-to-territory and also depend on supplied with your car. and refilled before completing 10,000 miles (16,000 km), or when new hypoid supplied by your Vauxhall dealer.

General

s e i t i c a p a C & s t h g i e W , s n o i s n e Dim

Overall length ...

155.3 in (3944.0 mm)

Overall width

...

62.2 in (1580.0 mm)

Overall height ...

51.9 in (1317.0 mm)

Wheelbase

94.2 in (2392.0 mm)

Track (front and rear)

51.2 in (1300.0 mm)

Kerb weight

1951 |b (855 kg)

Maximum payload

810 Ib (397 kg)

Engine (oil capacity)

5.5 Imp. pints (3.13 litres)

Gearbox (oil capacity)

0.9 Imp. pint (0.51 litres)

Rear axle (oil capacity)

1.2 Imp. pints (0.68 litres)

Cooling system (coolant capacity)

10.2 imp. pints (5.80 litres)

Fuel tank (capacity) ...

8.0 Imp. galls (36.4 litres)

Chapter 1 Engine Contents

Ancillary components - installation Ancillary components - removal ; Camshaft and tappets -examination and renovation. Camshaft and tappets - installation Camshaft and tappets - removal Crankcase ventilation system : Crankshaft and main bearings- examination and renovation Crankshaft and main bearings - installation Crankshaft and main bearings - renewal Z Cylinder block and crankcase -examination and fenoveton Cylinder head- decarbonising, valve grinding and renovation Cylinder head - dismantling Cylinder head - reassembly and installation Cylinder head - removal

Engine Engine Engine Engine Engine Engine

-

dismantling general tes adjustment after major overhaul installation complete with gearbox installation without gearbox ... reassembly general removal without gearbox

...

Engine - separation from gearbox

Engine/gearbox - removal

;

Examination and renovation- general Fault diagnosis -engine : Flywheel - examination and renOVECION! General description Major operations only possible alter removal ‘of engine fro) car Major operations possible with engine in car

Methods of engine removal Oil pump and oil filter - removal Oil pump - examination and renovation Oil pump and sump - refitting ... Piston/connecting rod- refitting Piston/connecting rod - removal Piston/connecting rod assemblies - examination ana renovation er Sa Sump - removal ... Timing components - refitting.. Timing cover, gears and chain - renoval Timing gears and chain -examination and renovation

S S S S

Specifications —_—_—_eeree—e—————eeeeee

ee

eee

Engine general Type Displacement Bore

2a

e

2 4 ey

>

te

7 + ©

31.1 Using a valve grinding suction tool to install 2 tappet

31.3 Correct installation of camshaft thrust plate

Fig. 1.12 Reassembling timing chain tensioner (Sec. 32) 1

Sleeve

2

Spring

3

Piston

="

23

Chapter 1/Engine compound and then install the rear bearing cap, the correct way round (photo). Ensure that any shims are refitted in their original positions under the main bearing caps. Note the bolt on the centre main bearing cap to which the oil pump pick-up pipe is attached. 8 Fit the front and centre main bearing caps (the correct way round) complete with their shells and then insert and tighten all main bearing

cap bolts to the specified torque (photo). 9 Check the crankshaft endfloat using a dial gauge or feeler blades. This should be as specified in Specifications, provided the centre flanged shell bearings are to manufacturer's specified tolerance.

the crankshaft

10 Turn

and check that it rotates smoothly

during a

achieve this (photo). 6 Install the camshaft sprocket bolt and tighten to the specified torque. 7 Depress and then release the pad of the chain tensioner. This will disengage the internal pip and enable the tensioner to take up its operational tension. 8 Remove the timing cover oil seal and drive in a new one, using a piece of tubing as a drift. Apply engine oil to the seal lips and then install the timing cover, using a new gasket. Tighten the bolts only finger-tight at this stage. 9 Install the crankshaft pulley and tighten its securing bolt to the

specified torque (photo).

complete revolution.

10 Finally tighten the timing cover bolts to the specified torque.

30 Piston/connecting rod - refitting 1 The assemblies will have been prepared as described in Sections 22 and 23. 2 Apply engine oil liberally to the cylinder bores and to the piston rings. 3 Fit a piston ring compressor to no. 1 piston and then insert the connecting rod into the cylinder bore nearest the front of the block. Check that the notch in the piston crown faces the front of the engine

(photo). 4 With the piston skirt having entered the cylinder bore and the compressor resting squarely on the block, place the wooden handle of a hammer on the centre of the piston crown and then tap the head of the

_ handle sharply to drive the piston assembly into the bore. 5 With the crankpin at its lowest point, carefully pull the connecting rod downward and connect it to the crankshaft. Make sure that the big-end bearing shell has not become displaced. ng ki ma ll, she g in ar be th wi e et pl om (c p ca g in ar be 6 Install the big-end d an t en nm ig al in are p ca d an d ro e th on s rk ma ng hi tc sure that the ma ed id ov pr c, ti ma to au be l wil is Th . ne gi en e th of e sid t ec are on the corr e th d an d le mb se as y tl ec rr co en be ve ha d ro the piston and connecting . ed on ti si po y tl ec rr co is n ow cr on st pi e th on h tc no ue rq to d ie if ec sp e th to n te gh ti d an s lt bo d 7 Screw in the big-en

(photo).

. the

8 Repeat assemblies.

operations

foregoing

on

remaining

the

three

33 Oil pump and sump - refitting 1 Rotate the crankshaft by means of the pulley bolt until the pointer on the crankshaft pulley is opposite the TDC mark on the timing cover, with no. 1 piston on the compression stroke. This can be established by

checking

that

nos.

1 and 2 tappets

(counting

from

the front of the

engine) are resting on the lowest profile of the camshaft lobes. (Fig. 1.18) 2 Turn the oil pump drive gear until the drive spindle slot takes up the position shown in the diagram. (Fig. 1.19) 3 Install the oil pump to the crankcase, using a new flange gasket. Make sure that with the oil pump bolts inserted finger-tight, engagets men seg ll sma and e larg the sed cau has r gea vedri ft sha cam the ment of on iti pos the up e tak to ve) abo m fro wed vie en (wh e ndl spi e driv the of

shown.

(Fig. 1.20)

adjust the oil pump

If not, withdraw

the pump

and by trial-and-error,

gears until the correct setting is achieved

(photo).

piston

yo Pit-

—————

a

31 Camshaft and tappets - installation ~ — — — — — — E E — — — — — — — — ——E I in em th l tal ins d an cks blo pet tap the oil ed, ert inv ne gi 1 With the en

their original sequence (photo). the om fr ft ha ms ca the ert ins lly efu car and gs rin 2 Oil the camshaft bea front of the cylinder block (photo).

te pla the t tha e sur ng ki ma ts, bol ng uri sec and te pla ust 3 Install the thr ner sio ten in cha t res nea k for r nge (lo n ow sh as is exactly positioned

in cha ing tim the of g tin fit t rec cor it rm pe to er slipper) (photo), in ord |

tensioner.

5 .0 (0 in. 9 00 0. d an 2 90 0. n ee tw be be ld ou sh at lo 4 The camshaft endf If e. ug ga l dia a or es ad bl ler fee th wi . ted tes be n ca and 0.23 mm) which te. pla st ru th e th w ne re d, ie if ec sp at th s ed ce ex the endfloat

i

32 Timing components - refitting S e T G y il ar or mp te et ck ro sp h it (w ft ha ms ca 1 Rotate the crankshaft and the fitted)

drawn

until

the

between

timing

marks

the centres

are adjacent

to each

of the crankshaft

other

and a line

and camshaft will pass

through them.

’ ‘2 ng ri sp e th l al st in t rs fi , ed tl 2 f the chain tensioner has been disman ge ga En . ly mb se as d pa e th of ’ ‘1 (Fig. 1.12) and piston ‘3’ in the sleeve ss re mp co w No . on st pi e th in ve oo gr e th th wi ve ee sl e th de si in p pi e th e th of d en e th at ss ce re e th in s ge ga en p pi e th l ti un ts en on mp co e th d. te ac tr re in ma re w no ll wi on st pi e Th . piston groove . dy bo r ne io ns te e th in ly mb se as d 3 Install the retracted pa e th on ng ti un mo le zz no l oi e th to ly mb se as r ne io ns te e th 4 Install front face of the block. en th d an et ck ro sp ft ha ks an cr e th 5 Engage the timing chain with engage the install the are marks

w No n. ai ch e th of op lo r pe up e th in camshaft sprocket with ng mi ti e th at th so n ai ch th wi te le mp camshaft sprocket co of nt ou am n ai rt ce A 1. in paragraph as described

ft ha ms ca d an n ai ch e th of g in on ti reposi

sprocket

will be required to

Pek

sah oak

s rk ma et ck ro sp of t en nm ig al g in 32.5 Timing chain components show

Fig. 1.14. Engine timing marks (Sec. 33) 32.9 Installing crankshaft pulley

7

Crankshaft pulley pointer

2

Timing cover TDC mark

1,e «4 Fig. 1.15. Oil pump drive spindle set ready for installation (Sec. 33) Fig. 1.16. Alignment of oil pump drive spindle (viewed from above)

after correct installation. A to B is permitted tolerance (Sec. 33)

33.3 Installing oil pump

Fig. 1.17. Sealing sump gasket at rear bearing cap (Sec. 33)

25

Chapter 1/Engine 4 Tighten the oil pump bolts to the specified torque. 5 Reconnect the pick-up tube support to the securing bolt located on the centre main bearing cap. the an cle t firs s, thi do To . led tal ins be now uld sho s ket gas p 6 The sum l sea cap g rin bea r rea the o als , ase nkc cra and mp su of es mating fac groove. 7 Apply suitable jointing compound to the corners formed by the rear main bearing cap seal groove and the crankcase. Install the sump gasket so that the ends of the gasket are located in the cap groove and then apply more jointing compound to seal the ends of the gasket within the

groove (photo). the rear seal and shape it to fit the groove in the bearing cap.

8

Warm

9

Install the seal so that the chamfers

‘A’ (Fig. 1.18)

face inwards.

Apply jointing compound to the junctions of the seal and gasket and then install the sump, tightening the bolts in diagonally opposite sequence. Do not overtighten them. 10 Note the gearbox to sump bracket brace. The inclusion of the

lockwasher ‘3’ is essential (Fig. 1.19).

34 Cylinder head - reassembly and installation 1 Install the valves in their original sequence or if new ones have been purchased, to the seats to which they have been ground. 2 Fit new valve stem oil seals and circlips to the four inlet valve guides. oil ine eng d lie app ing hav t firs de, gui its o int ve val t firs the 3 Insert

liberally to its stem (photo). 4 Fit the valve spring, the retaining cap and then compress the valve . stem e valv the of out cutthe in ets coll split the te loca spring and Release the compressor. Repeat these operations on the remaining

seven valves (photo). 5 When all the valves have been installed, place the cylinder head flat , tor ula ins an as od wo of ck blo a and er mm ha a ng usi on the bench and tap the end of each valve stem to settle the components. 6 Install the rocker balls (photo). 7 Install the rocker springs so that the smaller coil is nearer the cylinder head. 8 Install the rockers and the self-locking nuts, only screwing on the nuts a few turns.

33.7 Fitting sump gasket

) 33 . ec (S e ac br mp su to x bo ar ge Fig. 1.19. Components of the 1 2

Gearbox brace Sump bracket

3

Lockwasher

34.3 Installing a valve

26

Chapter 1/Engine

=

34.6 Rocker components

4

34.9 Installing cylinder head gasket

oro %D ©)

Fig. 1.21. Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence diagram (Sec. 34)

a a mi “ “I

‘ uel

.

ak

ae

34.12 Checking and adjusting a valve clearance

35.3 Installing the oil filter

9 Make sure that the faces of the cylinder head and the cylinder block are perfectly clean and then lay a new gasket on the cylinder block so that the word ‘Front’ is visible from above and correctly located. Do not use any kind of jointing compound (photo). 10 Lower the cylinder head into position, insert the cylinder head bolts and tighten them in Fig. 1.21.

to the specified torque

and in the sequence

shown,

11 Each rocker can now be swivelled aside and the respective pushrod

installed. Apply engine oil to all the rocker components (photo). 12 The valve clearances should be as described in Section 38, but at approximate clearances so that the this, apply a ring spanner to the crankshaft until no. 1 piston is at established by placing a finger compression can be felt, continue pointer is opposite the TDC mark

set with the engine running and hot, this stage they should be adjusted to engine can be started and run. To do crankshaft pulley bolt and turn the TDC (top-dead-centre). This can be over no. 1 plug hole and when turning until the crankshaft pulley on the timing cover. Insert an 0.008

in. (0.20 mm) feeler blade between the end of no. 1 valve stem and the rocker and adjust the rocker self-locking nut until the feeler blade is a

35.4 Installing the flywheel

stiff sliding fit. Repeat the operation (without moving the crankshaft) on no. 2 valve. The clearances for both inlet and exhaust valves are the

same (photo). 13 Turn the crankshaft until no. 3 piston is at TDC and repeat the adjustment procedure on valves 5 and 6 (counting from the front of the

engine). 14 Turn the crankshaft until no. 4 piston is at TDC and repeat the adjustment procedure on valves 7 and 8. 15 Turn the crankshaft until no. 2 piston is at TDC and repeat the adjustment procedure on valves 3 and 4. If the foregoing sequence of adjustment is followed, it will prevent the crankshaft from being

rotated unnecessarily as the engine firing order is 1-3-4-2.

35 Ancillary components - installation

1 This is a reversal of the removal sequence given in Section 9, of this Chapter. 2 Full details of component installation are given in the relevant

Chapter 1/Engine Chapters of this manual, but the following points should be noted. 3 Always install a new oil filter sealing ring in the cylinder block groove. Tighten the centre-bolt only to specified torque (photo). 4 When installing the flywheel bolts, smear their threads sparingly with a suitable sealer. Excessive amounts of sealer may damage the crankshaft oil seal. Tighten the flywheel bolts to the specified torque

27

Chapter 5. 2 Tighten the clutch bellhousing bolts to the specified torque. 3 Reverse all the operations described in Section 5 of this Chapter, making quite sure that the assembly of the engine front and rear mountings is as illustrated in Figs. 1.23 and 1.24.

(photo). 5

Adjust the fanbelt as described in Chapter 2, Section 12.

36 Engine - installation without gearbox 1 This is a reversal of the removal operations described of this Chapter, but check the following points:

in Section 7,

in bed cri des as ed, lis tra cen n bee has te pla ven dri tch clu the (i) That Chapter 5. as d le mb se as tly rec cor are s ng ti un mo nt fro ne gi (ii) That the en ine eng the in ts bol ger lon use r ve Ne 3. 1.2 shown in Fig. the l fou y ma y the or y, all gin ori ed us se tho n tha ts bol mounting

crankshaft (photo).

37 Engine - installation complete with gearbox

s E — — — — — — — E — E — — II — I 1 Connect the engine and gearbox. This is quite straightforward in bed cri des as ed, lis tra cen n bee has te pla ven dri provided the clutch

and 36 cs. (Se ng ti un mo nt fro ine eng an of w vie ed od pl Ex Fig. 1,23. 37)

i)

1

Tang for location in hole (2)

e th to d ie pl ap er al se th wi lt bo g in in ta re Fig. 1.22. Inserting a flywheel threads to prevent oil seepage from the crankcase (Sec. 35)

) 37 c. (Se ng ti un mo r rea ox rb ea /g ne gi en e th of ew Fig. 1.24. Exploded vi

36.1 Right-hand (cast type) engine mounting

1 2 3

Retaining clip ve ha ts en on mp co me so , de si nd ha tgh ri on ed Hole (to be position arrow to indicate front of crossmember) Bolt

28 ee

ee

Chapter 1/Engine ee et Mele Se ee

Oe MN ee

4 Refill the cooling system with antifreeze Proportions given in Chapter 2. 5 Refill the engine with oil. 6 Check and top-up the gearbox oil level.

mixture,

to

the

38 Engine - adjustment after major overhaul

1 With the engine refitted to the vehicle, give a final visual check to see that everything has been reconnected and that no loose rags or tools have been left within the engine compartment. 2

Turn

the engine

slow

running

screw

in about

% turn

(to increase

slow running once the engine is started) (Chapter 3). This faster slowrunning

will

be

needed

due

to

the

tightness

of

the

new

engine

components. 3 Pull the choke fully out and start the engine. This may take a little longer than usual as the fuel pump and carburettor bowl will be empty and need initial priming. 4 As soon as the engine starts, push the choke in until the engine runs at a fast tickover and examine the engine for leaks. Check particularly

Ve

the water hoses and oil filter and fuel hose unions. 5 Run the vehicle on the road until normal operating temperature is reached. 6 Check and re-adjust the valve clearances by the following method: switch off the engine, disconnect the breather hose from the rocker cover, the coil cover, plug leads, distributor cap and slacken the bolt which holds numbers 3 and 4 spark plug leads to the support bracket. Unscrew the rocker cover screws and lift off the cover. 7 Reconnect the ignition components and start the engine. Unscrew the throttle stop screw until the engine runs as slowly as possible.

8

Insert a feeler blade

(0.008 in/O.20 mm)

between each valve stem

and its rocker in turn and adjust the rocker nut until the feeler can be withdrawn with a stiff pull. 9 Adjust the throttle speed screw to give normal idling speed and then switch off the ignition and refit the rocker cover. 10 Where new internal components have been installed, the engine

speed should be restricted for the first 500 miles (800 km) and at this mileage, the engine oil should be renewed, the cylinder head bolts checked for correct torque (unscrew each bolt one % turn and then tighten to specified torque and in recommended sequence). Finally, check and adjust the valve clearances.

39 Fault diagnosis - engine -—_—_—_—

ne

eee

ee eee

Symptom —_—eererererereeeeeee

ee

Reason Cn

eee

Engine fails to start

eeeee

Discharged battery

Loose battery connection Disconnected or broken ignition leads Moisture on spark plugs, distributor or leads Incorrect contact points gap, cracked distributor cap or rotor Incorrect spark plug gap ; Dirt or water in carburettor jets

Empty fuel tank Faulty fuel pump Faulty starter motor Faulty carburettor choke mechanism Engine idles erratically

Air leak at intake manifold Leaking cylinder head gasket Worn timing sprockets Worn camshaft lobes

Overheating Faulty fuel pump

Engine ‘misses’ at idling speed

Incorrect spark plug gap Uneven compression between cylinders Faulty coil or condenser Faulty contact points Poor connections or condition of ignition leads Dirt in carburettor jets Incorrectly adjusted carburettor Worn distributor cam

Air leak at carburettor flange gasket Faulty ignition advance mechanism Sticking valves Incorrect valve clearance Low cylinder compression Engine ‘misses’ throughout speed range

Dirt or water in carburettor or fuel lines Incorrect ignition timing Contact points incorrectly gapped Worn distributor Faulty coil or condenser Spark plug gaps incorrect Weak valve spring

Overheating

29

Chapter 1/Engine

ee i 1 ) P | Symptom

__

Reason

t e

Engine stalls

Engine lacks power

Incorrectly adjusted carburettor Dirt or water in fuel Ignition system incorrectly adjusted Sticking choke mechanism ed pp ga y tl ec rr co in or s ug pl k ar sp Faulty Faulty coil or condenser Incorrect contact points gap Exhaust system clogged Distributor advance inoperative Air leak at intake manifold ge an fl ng ti un mo r to et ur rb ca at ak Air le Incorrect valve clearance Sticking valve Overheating Low compression em st sy on ti ni ig on s on ti ec nn co Poor electrical

Incorrect ignition timing Faulty coil or condenser Worn distributor Dirt in carburettor d e p p a g y tl ec rr co in s ug Spark pl r to et ur rb ca ed st ju ad y tl ec Incorr Faulty fuel pump

Weak valve springs Sticking valve Incorrect valve timing Incorrect valve adjustment

et sk ga ad he er nd li cy n w o l B Low compression

Brakes dragging Clutch slipping Overheating

Chapter 2 Cooling system Contents

Antifreeze mixture Cooling system - draining Cooling system- flushing

Cooling system- filling..

es

Cooling system- general description

nt

wet

ue

a

at

5 2 3

oe

ae

=H

oe

Pci

ae!

ate

23;

ely

AE

‘ep

we

Ue

Fan assembly- testing, removal and refitting Fan belt - renewal and adjustment

é

Fault diagnosis -cooling system ei aa ae Radiator pressure cap Radiator - removal, inspection, cand and renting:

He

Thermostat - removal, testing and eis

Water pump- overhaul

...

Ae)

s

rena A

RS! 1 6

ae

oe

i

eS}

cs

at

atk

y

We

Water pump - removal and installation

g)

12

—_—_—_—_—_—_—_—_—_—n—n—

Specifications —_—_—_——_——————————————————

eee

System type

Thermo syphon belt driven pump, pressurized

Radiator cap pressure

13 Ib sq in

Thermostat opens

190°F (88°C)

System capacity

10.2 pints (5.80 litres)

Torque wrench settings

Ib/ft 14 24

Fan securing screw Water pump bolts

1

Cooling system - general description

The cooling system is of pressurized type and includes a front mounted radiator, a belt-driven water pump and a viscous-coupling type fan. A thermostat is located in the outlet side of the water pump. The radiator is not provided with a drain plug but one is installed on the right-hand side of the cylinder block. The principle of the system is that cold water in the bottom of the radiator circulates upwards through the lower radiator hose to the water pump, where the pump impeller pushes the water round the cylinder block and head through the various cast-in passages to cool the cylinder bores, combustion surfaces and valve seats. When sufficient heat has been absorbed by the cooling water, and the engine has reached an efficient working temperature, the water moves from the cylinder head past the now open thermostat into the top radiator hose and into the radiator header tank. The water then travels down the radiator tubes when it is rapidly cooled by the in-rush of air when the vehicle is in forward motion. A five-bladed fan, mounted on the water pump pulley, assists this cooling action. The water, now cooled, reaches the bottom of the radiator and the cycle is repeated. When the engine is cold the thermostat remains closed until the

coolant reaches a pre-determined temperature (see Specifications). This assists rapid warming-up. Water temperature is measured

by an electro-sensitive capsule located immediately below the thermostat housing. Water from the engine cooling system is used to provide warmth to the car interior

through the medium of a heater assembly (see Chapter 12).

Nm 19 33

reached. Wait a minute or two with the cap in this position to allow the Pressure in the system to escape. Continue turning the cap fully anticlockwise and remove it. 2 If the coolant is to be retained for further use, place a suitable container under the radiator and then disconnect the bottom hose.

3 Place a second container under the engine and remove the drain plug from the right-hand side of the cylinder block.

eT 3 Cooling system - flushing Ce ee 1 The radiator and waterways in the engine after some time may become restricted or even blocked with scale or sediment which reduce the efficiency of the cooling system. When this condition occurs or the coolant appears rusty or dark in colour the system should be flushed. In severe cases reverse flushing may be required as described later. 2 With the bottom radiator hose still disconnected and the cylinder block drain plug removed, move the heater control lever to the red position. 3 Insert a hose in the radiator filler neck and allow water to run through the system until it flows from both outlets quite clear in colour. Do not flush a hot engine with cold water. 4 In severe cases of contamination of the coolant, reverse flush the system. To do this, remove the radiator, as described in Section 6, invert it and insert a hose in the bottom water outlet. Continue flushing until clear water comes freely from the top tank. 5 The use of chemical cleaners should only be used as a last resort and

the regular renewal of the antifreeze mixture should obviate the need for flushing or other cleaning treatment. ———————————

ae

RN SS

ES

Ee

ee

2 Cooling system - draining ————————E—— ES—— eS ——ee ——e — ee 1 It is preferable to drain the cooling system when the engine has cooled, If this is not possible, then place a cloth over the radiator cap and turn it slowly in ar anticlockwise direction until the first stop is

4

Cooling system - filling Reconnect the radiator bottom hose. Tighten the cylinder block drain plug. Place the heater control lever to the red position.

Pour RWN

coolant (of the specified antifreeze mixture - see next Section)

31

Chapter 2/Cooling system radiator

the

into

filler neck.

Pour

and

slowly

level

the

when

stop

reaches 1 in. (25.0 mm) below the base of the filler neck. 5 \f after operating the car, the heater fails to warm up, then there is be cleared

probably an airlock in the system and it must following way. 6 Disconnect the upper end of the hose which

deteriorated. 9 Installation is a reversal of removal.

in the 7

runs

Radiator pressure can

the

between

cylinder head and the heater control valve. Make sure that the radiator cap is in position, the heater control set to ‘HOT’ and the engine off. 7 Hold the hose upright and using a funnel, pour coolant into the hose until it flows from the control valve. 8 Reconnect the hose to the control valve, run the engine and then check and top-up the coolant level in the radiator.

1 If escaping pressure can be heard from the top of the radiator or if the coolant level requires constant topping-up, it can be assumed that the pressure cap is at fault, provided of course that there are no other leaks in the system. 2 The radiator cap can be tested at most garages and if it is found to be faulty, replaced with one of similar rating (13 Ib sq in. - 0.91 kg sq

cm). 5

Antifreeze mixture 8

1 The coolant should be renewed every two years not only to maintain the antifreeze properties, but also to prevent corrosion in the in s tor ibi inh the of th eng str the as ur occ ise erw oth system which would the coolant becomes progressively less effective. ns tio nec con e hos all ck che , tem sys the to e eez ifr ant ing add 2 Before and check the tightness of the cylinder head bolts as such solutions are h wit ed ill ref tly par and d ine dra be uld sho tem sys searching. The cooling e. eez ifr ant ing add ore bef , ned lai exp y usl vio pre clean water as of els lev s iou var for d use be uld sho h ic wh e eez ifr ant of 3 The quantity protection

Thermostat - removal, testing and refitting

1 A faulty thermostat can cause overheating or slow engine warm up. It will also affect the performance of the heater. 2 Drain off enough coolant through the radiator drain tap so that the coolant level is below the thermostat housing joint face. A good indication that the correct level has been reached is when the cooling tubes are exposed when viewed through the radiator filler cap.

the of ge ta en rc pe a as d se es pr ex w, lo be le tab is given in the

system capacity. Safe pump circulation —12°C ( 10°F) 3°F) —169C( —20°C (— 4°F)

Protection to

Antifreeze volume 25% 30% 35%

—26°C (—15°F) —33°C (—28°F) —39°C (—38°F)

any on uti sol e eez ifr ant an ns tai con em st sy 4 Where the cooling r ila sim in up de ma on uti sol a h wit topping-up should be done on. uti dil id avo to er ord in al gin ori the to s on ti or op pr R E E S EI REIEE EIEEI EEE UU U TE

6

g in tt fi re d an ng ni ea cl , on ti ec sp in l, va mo re or at Radi

1 2

2. n io ct Se in d be ri sc de as , em st sy g in ol co e Drain th e th d an pe pi nk ta er ad he or at di ra e th om fr Disconnect the top hose

e — — EE — I— II A AA — e — Q

overflow tube from the reservoir (if fitted). . pe pi et tl ou or at di ra e th om fr se ho om tt 3 Disconnect the bo 4

Unscrew

and

remove

the

six

retaining

bolts

which

secure

the

). to ho (p ! ne pa ng ti un mo t en tm ar mp co ne gi radiator to the front en Do . ns fi g in ol co e th ge ma da to t no 5 Lift out the radiator, taking care not

allow

antifreeze

solution

to

drop

onto

the

bodywork

during

removal as damage may result. be y ma s ak le r no mi t bu st li ia ec sp a to 6 Radiator repair is best left tackled with a proprietary product. ft so a th wi ng hi us br by s ie fl of d re ea cl 7 The radiator matrix may be brush or by hosing. ee gr de s it to g in rd co ac 3 n io ct Se 8 Flush the radiator as described in ve ha h ic wh s ip cl or s se ho y an w of contamination. Examine and rene

or at di ra e th of ew vi l na io ct Se 3. 2. Fig.

cap (Sec. 7) s lt bo g n i r u c e s or at di ra of n 6.4 Locatio

m o r f ck lo r ai g n i v o m e R Fig. 2.1.

cooling system (Sec. 4)

(one side)

1 2

Pressure valve Vacuum valve

1/0g aysey

dung Bulanzas 1/09 (6u0}/) Bulseag/1 AjquiassefeysS .eIsOUJaY] Buisnoy 4anO7

JIUWIC1ID 8IEJIIJUNOD Bulsds yoo)Bul 6uls /@aS sse Ajquia Aaljnd Bulnunow abuely 19Se5) (140ys) 1/0q dwing Bulsnzas

1a1e duind

Bulinz1/0 asq

4BYSEMYIOT

43//aAUU]

Aal/Nd

JOYSEMYIOT uey BusisinyIOS a zas Puey-349/) (peasyi 4JOYSE// JOYSEMYIOT

Aal|Ndg

| lejsowsay SNOISIA uel

uey/duind Ajquiasse *29S)

1/aq aalig

sazeng

INN

(OL

‘B14 ‘“p'z

MasIS

32

HAMTPTOONDHDOHN

33

Chapter 2/Cooling system E E the aw dr th wi and ts bol ing ain ret o tw the ve mo re 3 Unscrew and d ve mo re be to at st mo er th the it rm pe to tly ien fic suf thermostat cover from its seat in the cylinder head. a by at st mo er th e th d en sp su e, bl ea ic rv se is it un 4 To test whether the e th s, il bo r te wa e th en Wh . ed at he g in be r te piece of string in a pan of wa

thermostat

valve

should

open

% in. (12.5 mm). When

the valve has

. ed os cl ly te le mp co is it at th re su ke ma cooled, d an et sk ga ge an fl w ne a e us t bu l va mo 5 Refitting is a reversal of re e th ce on t in po t es gh hi e th at is n pi le gg ji check that the thermostat

g. in us ho e th in ed at se is at st mo er th i

on ti la al st in d an l va mo re p m u p r te Wa

9

[i t. el nb fa e th ct ne on sc di d an em st sy g 1 Drain the coolin ve mo re d an lt bo un d an mp pu r te wa 2 Disconnect the hoses from the e th ve mo re to ed ne no is e er Th the pump/fan assembly as a unit. ns fi e th ge ma da to t no n ke ta is re ca radiator for this operation provided

11 Fan assembly - testing, removal and refitting 1 This is of viscous type and is a sealed unit. At certain upper engine speeds, the fan ‘free-whee!s’ so saving engine power when the ram effect of cooling air due to the forward motion of the car, is adequate. 2 In the event of overheating, first check the drivebelt tension (see next Section). Operation of the fan viscous coupling can be observed by watching it while the engine speed is increased progressively beyond 1000 rev/min. As the engine speed increases so the speed of the fan blades should decrease. oil e ibl vis or g nin run l coo ly ive ess exc e lud inc ld 3 Any fault which cou leaks, will necessitate renewal of the complete fan unit. the ng vi mo re st fir er aft le sib pos y onl is t uni 4 Removal of the fan a h wit e typ ket soc of is ew scr ng uri sec fan the t tha radiator. Note left-hand thread.

(photo).

ng ti ma e th at th re su ke ma t bu l va mo 3. Installation is a reversal of re to s lt bo ng ri cu se e th n te gh ti d an et sk ga t in jo w ne a e us n, ea cl e ar faces n io ct Se in d be ri sc de as t, el nb fa e th st ju ad d an t fi Re . ue rq to t ec rr the co

12: i

EEE EEE

EERE

10 Water pump - overhaul ee ee is it at th ty ul fa s e m o c e b p m u p e th n e h w at th d e d n e m m o c e r is 1 \t r Fo . it d un e n o i t i d n o c e r a or t n e n o p m o c w e n a h t i w er th ei d e w e n e r g n i w o l l o f e th t ou y fr ca , y l b m e s s a al in ig or e th ir pa re to h s i w o those wh operations. r te wa e th om fr ey ll pu e iv dr d an n fa s ou sc vi e th e v o m e r d an 2 Unbolt . ad re th d an -h ft le a s ha w re sc ng ri cu se n fa e th at th te No pump flange. t. af sh e th m o r f er ll pe im e th w a r d h t i w , er ll pu d e g g e l o w t a 3 Using . y d o b p m u p e th m o r f e c a f r e t n u o c c i m a r e c d n a al se e th t 4 €xtrac e th s es pr n e h t d n a it g n i z e e u q s y b ng ri g n i k c o l ng ri sp 5 Release the p m u p e th m o r f , ge an fl ey ll pu h t i w e t e l p m o c , y l b m e s s a shaft/bearing body. to in it s es Pr . y l b m e s s a an as d e w e n e r is y l b m e s s a 6 The shaft/bearing e th d n a t rs fi s r e t n e t af sh e th of d n e r e t r o h s e th at th so the pump body e th in e v o o r g g n i k c o l e th h t i w ns ig al t n o r f e h t m o second groove fr . ng ri g n i k c o l g n i r p s e h t l body. Instal d n a s e v o o r g e th h t i w e g a g n e s p i p e th at th so al se 7 Assemble the e th to d e i l p p a e b y a m e s a e r g le tt li A . y d o b p m u p install it to the g. in tt fi te ta li ci fa to al outside edge of the se s d r a w o t is e c a f r e b b u r e h t t a h t so e c a f r e t n u o c 8 Install the ceramic the impeller. , t f a h s e h t o t n o d e s s e r p e b t s u m e g n a l f y e l l u p e h Q The impeller and t . d e n i a t t a e ar 8 . 2 g. Fi in n w o h 50 that the dimensions s

) 10 . ec (S ng ri g in ck lo ng ri sp mp pu r te wa g in as Fig. 2.5. Rele

) d e w o r r a ( e v o o r g ng ri g n i k c o l g n i r a e b / t f a h s p m u p r e t a W Fig. 2.6.

(Sec. 10)

y l b m e s s a p m u p r e 9.2 Removing wat ) 10 . ec (S al se p m u p r te wa e th of ns io ct se o w t e h T 7. 2. Fig.

34

Chapter 2/Cooling system

Fig. 2.8. Sectional view of the water pump showing setting of pulley

A

=

mounting flange and impeller (Sec. 10) B = 0.044 to 0.046 in. 3.46in. (88.0 mm) (7.12 to 1.17 mm)

Fig. 2.10. Point at which to test drivebelt deflection (Sec. 12) alternator away from the engine until the slack is taken out of the belt. Tighten (but do not fully tighten) the bolts in the following sequence:

12 Fanbelt - renewal and adjustment 1 the 2 the fan 3

To renew the drivebelt, slacken the alternator mounting bolts and adjustment strap bolts. Push the alternator in towards the engine and then slip the belt from alternator pulley, finally withdrawing it from the crankshaft and pulleys. Installation is a reversal of removal.

4

Whenever

Maintenance

a

belt

is fitted

or

at

regular

intervals

(see

Routine

Section), adjust the belt in the following way.

Pull the

(i) front mounting, (ii) adjustment strap bolt, (iii) rear mounting. 5 Test the belt deflection (% in./6.0 mm) with the thumb as shown (Fig. 2.10). If necessary adjust the position of the alternator on its mountings until the tension is correct and then fully tighten the alternator bolts in the sequence previously described and finally tighten the bolt which secures the adjustment strap to the engine. 6 If a lever is being used to move the alternator away from the engine,

always make sure that the bolts are released first and that the lever is applied only to the alternator drive end shield.

13 Fault diagnosis - cooling system Symptom

Reason

Overheating

Low coolant level Faulty radiator pressure cap

Thermostat stuck shut Drive belt slipping or incorrectly tensioned Clogged radiator matrix

Incorrect engine timing Corroded system

Cool running

Incorrect type thermostat

Faulty fan viscous coupling Slow warm up

Thermostat stuck open

Coolant loss

Faulty radiator pressure cap Split hose Leaking water pump to block Joint Leaking core plug Blown cylinder head gasket

m e t s y s l e u F 3 r e Chapt Contents

on ate ie se se sti ss r aes

. .. nt me st ju ad d an g in tl an sm di l ro nt co r to Accelera rae aes .. g. in st te d an n io pt ri sc de r ne Air clea om Ps on ... l wa ne re t en em Air cleaner el ne .. l. ve le oil g in in ta in ma er mp da Carburettor sas ... _ ly mb se as re d an g in tl an sm di r to et ur rb Ca of ... g in tt se t ar st ld co d an e idl Carburettor - fast ae s ale bes n io pt ri sc de l ra ne ge Carburettor iss ee nt me st ju ad d ee sp ng Carburettor - idli se we on ti la al st in d an Carburettor - removal

ss ae Carburettor vent valve - adjustment... ne Choke control cable - removal and refitting ... sus Fault diagnosis - fuel system and carburation Fuel pump - description, testing and cleaning a aed Fuel pump - removal and installation ... See Fuel tank - removal, servicing and installation Fuel tank transmitter unit - removal and installation ae at iad we aT General description ak ess Manifolds and exhaust system - general

9 ee 2 se 3 ies dc anne LS ae AZ fav AD ie il Aree alo

a ae ses

aw a we

ais

ner

as

J

ae er

wes PAL

_

ds Specifications

n i ( o. n j Fuel pump

Mechanical

Pressure ...

2% to 3% Ib/sq. in

Carburettor

Stromberg

3 Type Identification:

3696B 3698 BIDV 2.54 mm M2

Standard compression engine Low compression engine Metering needle Jet orifice

As Bey

ass Fast idle cam Inlet needle valve...

150CD—SEV

1.5mm 1.6 mm 800 to 850 rev/min

) ss ne ck hi (t er sh wa e lv va Inlet Idling speed

Fuel tank

) s e r t i l 4 . 6 3 ( . s 8 Imp. gall

Capacity Fuel octane rating: ne gi en n io ss re mp co rd Standa Low compression engine

97 90 Ib/ft

Torque wrench settings Fuel pump bolts Inlet manifold bolts ExPraust manifold bolts Carburettor flange bolts

Nm

20

28

25

35

28 24

39 33

EE 1 General description E E pe w lo be ed at oc (l nk ta el fu d te un mo ar re a s se ri mp co em st The fuel sy ft ha ms ca a , l) ne pa r oo fl nd ha tgh ri t en tm ar mp co ng yi rr the load ca

r. to et ur rb ca g er mb ro St a d an p m operated tuel pu a es at or rp co in d an pe ty ed ll ro nt co eur at er mp te of is r ne The air clea disposable paper element.

2 2

g n i t s e t d n a n o i t p i r c s e d Air cleaner

i e e r h t s e s i r p m o c r e n a e l c air 1 The

temperature

sensing

unit,

(ii) a vacuum

major

components:

capsule,

(i)

a

(iii) an exhaust

manifold shroud. t n e m t r a p m o c e n i g n e at r e n a e l c r ai e h t to in n w a r 2 Cold air is d e h t m o r f e s o h le ib ex fl a h g u o r h t n w a r d is r ai t o h e temperature whil s. lt bo r u o f y b d e r u c e s is h c i h w , d u o r h s d l o f i n a m t s u exha

3

The vacuum

capsule

is connected

to a control damper

assembly

2) . ec (S s lt bo g n i r u c e s d u o r Fig. 3.1. Exhaust manifold sh

= et) LS 4 5 6 7 1 f

36

oe ) Fig. 3.2. Air cleaner assembly (Sec. 2) 7

Temperature sensor

2

Vacuum capsule

3

Exhaust manifold shroud

Fig. 3.3. Levering off the air cleaner sensor unit (Sec. 2)

5.3 Removing the fuel pump

Fig. 3.4. Installing the air filter element (Sec. 3)

37

Chapter 3/Carburation; fuel and exhaust systems which regulates the intake of hot and cold air to provide air of even and optimum temperature for the carburettor. 4 When the engine is running, the degree of vacuum in the capsule is dependent upon the temperature sensor unit. This is of bi-metal spring s run ich (wh line uum vac the into air ed ble to ns ope construction and the er nev whe e) sul cap uum vac the to ld ifo man ake int the m fro

. °C) (40 °F 104 ve abo s rise r ane cle air the hin wit re atu per tem air il unt sed clo be l wil t por air d col the , ine eng d col a 5 When starting sor sen the e uat act to gh ou en rm wa is ud ro sh t drawn from the exhaus unit. 6 A fault in the operation of one or more of the components of the der col in but r, the wea rm wa in nt are app be air cleaner may not to cy den ten l era gen a and ng lli sta or ts spo t conditions, surging, fla weakness may be noticed. the ew vi to ror mir a use r, ane cle air the of n io at er op 7 To check the the If ut. spo ake int r ane cle air the h ug ro th attitude of the damper

n see be l wil t por ake int air d col the C) 3° engine is cold (below 90°F/3

s thi e ov ab are es ur at er mp te r ane cle air and ine to be closed. If the eng the om fr ion iat dev any is re the If n. ope be level, the cold air port will the and g din bin for e kag lin the k ec ch , ons iti correct damper pos sor sen the of n io at er op the t tes n the and ty connecting hoses for securi and er cov r ane cle air the ve mo re d, col ine eng unit. To do this, have the of ce pie a ng usi t uni sor sen the to nt install a thermometer adjace the as n soo as and ine eng the rt Sta er. cov the e adhesive tape. Replac er cov r ane cle air the ve mo re t, por air d col the damper is seen to open F 5° 11 and 90 n ee tw be te ica ind uld sho s Thi and read the thermometer. w ne re ge, ran s thi hin wit en op not (33 and 47°C). If the damper does p. cli ing ain ret its off ng eri lev by t uni the sensor N SEE EEE EEUU e e

1

renewed. Earlier renewal dusty conditions.

may

6

of removal, but use new sealing gaskets on insulator which was originally fitted. Make goes above the camshaft eccentric before and tightening to the specified torque.

Fuel tank - removal, servicing and installation

1 Remove the left-hand side panel from the load carrying area. This is secured by five press studs and a lever will have to be inserted between the trim and body panels to release them. 2 Remove the right-hand trim panel in a similar manner and then extract the upper securing screw from the fuel tank filler pipe protective shroud.

3 Remove the floor panels, noting integral with the right-hand panel.

that

the

filler pipe shroud

oe cS

EERE

3 Air cleaner element - renewal ne

Every 12000 miles (19000 km)

4 Installation is a reversal the flange and replace any sure that the rocker arm installing the securing bolts

6) . ec (S s ip cl l ne pa im tr or ri te in dy Bo 6. Fig. 3.

the air cleaner element should be

be required

if the car is operated in very

r. ne ea cl air e th om fr se ho er th ea br e as kc an cr 2 Disconnect the r. ne ea cl air e th om fr pe pi ke ta in air t ho 3 Disconnect the flexible on d te ca lo is h ic wh e ul ps ca um cu va e th 4 Disconnect the hose from the underside of the air cleaner. . ws re sc ng ri cu se six e th ng wi re sc un r te af 5 Remove the top cover air e th of or ri te in e th n ea Cl it. d ar sc di 6 Lift out the element and cleaner body. ke ma t bu l, va mo re of al rs ve re a is t en em 7 Installation of the new el . om tt bo e th at is t en em el e th of ng ri g in al sure that the rubber se ea

4

EEE aE

ng ni ea cl d an g in st te n, io pt ri sc de Fuel pump

emcee

pee

d an e as kc an cr e th of de si d an -h ft le e th on d te ca lo is p m u p el fu e 1 Th on c ri nt ce ec an th wi t ac nt co in is h ic wh m ar er ck ro a y b ed at er op it is the camshaft. e th ng ni ea cl om fr t ar ap d an on ti uc tr ns co ed al se of is p m u p e 2 Th in d an le ib ss po is g in tl an sm di no s, al rv te in d e d n e m m o c e r at en re sc filter p m u p e th , ng pi lo ve de t ul fa a of t en the ev

must be renewed complete.

om fr pe pi el fu e th ct ne on sc di , mp pu e th of n io at er op e th st te To 3 t rs fi — g in av (h r te ar st e th on ne gi en e th in Sp r. to carburet the d an ) ng ri fi ne gi en e th t en ev pr to il co e th om fr ad le LT e th ed disconnect en op e th om fr d te ec ej e ar el fu of ts ur sp d ne fi de ll we r he observe whet y. tl ec rr co g in at er op is p m u p e th en th e, ar ey th If . pe pi e th of end 4

To

clean

the filter,

first disconnect

the fuel

inlet pipe from

the

at th d e d n e m m o c e r is It . el fu of ss lo t n e v e r p to e p i p e th pump and plug e r o f e b , le ib ss po as w o l as t p e k is k n a t e th in el fu the level of . n o i t a r e p o g in ic rv se is th commencing r, ve co e th y a w a ft li d an w re sc re nt ce r ve co p m u p e th 5 Unscrew sealing ring and gauze filter. . e l b m e s s a e r d n a or ri te in p m u p d n a e z u a g e th m o r f 6 Brush any dirt t s u m e s e h T . gs pe ur fo s e t a r o p r o c n i e z u a g er lt fi e th On some pumps, . w e r c s e r t n e c r e v o c e th n e t h g i t r e v o t no o D r. ve co p o t face towards the Cee

SSE

5 Fuel pumppose eau 1 2 3

eee

ee

eee

removal and installation

. el fu of ss lo t en ev pr to it ug pl d an pe pi t le in el fu e th ct ne on sc Di . mp pu e th om fr pe pi et tl ou e} fu e th Disconnect

p m u p e th ft li d an s lt bo ng ri cu se p m u p o tw e th ve mo re d an w Unscre

from the crankcase (photo).

6) . ec (S s on ti ec nn co d an nk ta Fig. 3.8. The fuel

is

Chapter 3/Carburation; fuel and exhaust systems

38

h oug thr e pip er fill the ing lat ipu man e tim e sam the at on, ati loc from its its body sealing grommet.

8 A leak in a fuel tank should be repaired by specialists or a new tank fitted. Never be tempted to solder or weld a leaking fuel tank. 9 If the tank is contaminated with sediment or water, it can be swilled out using several changes of fuel, but if any vigorous shaking is required to dislodge accumulations of dirt, then the tank transmitter unit should first be removed, as described in the next Section. 10 Installation of the fuel tank is a reversal of removal.

Fig. 3.9. Fuel tank transmitter unit correctly installed (Sec. 7)

Fig. 3.10. Choke control attachment to steering column shroud (Sec. 8)

4 Disconnect fuel in the tank 5 Disconnect 6 Disconnect

7

the fuel outlet pipe (no drain plug is fitted) and let the drain into a suitable container. the fuel tank vent pipe. the lead from the fuel level transmitter unit.

Unscrew and remove the four tank securing bolts and lift the tank

Fig. 3.11. Accelerator control detail (RHD cars) (Sec. 9)

Chapter 3/Carburation; fuel and exhaust systems

39

vw

7

Fuel tank transmitter unit - removal and installation

1 Carry out the operations given in paragraphs 1 to 6 of the preceding Section. 2 Unscrew and remove the five securing bolts and withdraw the unit carefully, so that the float mechanism is not damaged. 3 Installation is a reversal of removal, but always use a new flange . nd ou mp co ng nti joi h wit es sid h bot on d are sme gasket which has been is It ts. bol ng uri sec the of s ead thr the to nd ou mp co ng nti joi Also apply is er itt nsm tra the on al min ter the , led tal ins n essential that whe . car the of e sid and t-h lef the s ard tow ng nti poi and horizontal

choke remains fully off even flexible mountings.

9

under extreme

engine movement

on its

Accelerator control - dismantling and adjustment

1 The pendant type accelerator three screws. After removal of cable assembly can be dismantled 2 After reassembly, or if the

pedal is secured to the fascia panel by these screws, the composite rod and for renewal of any worn component. cable has stretched and pedal free-

movement has become excessive, carry out the following adjustment procedure. 3. Disconnect one end of the linkage rod which runs between the pedal and the cable relay levers. the th Wi ). 13 3. g. (Fi ‘2’ op st er bb ru the t ns 4 Position the lever ‘1’ agai

R R E EE EEEE EEEE EE E UEEE e e

8

g in tt fi re d an l va mo re e bl ca l ro nt co e Chok

Ce

n aw dr th wi be n ca ob kn d an e bl ca r ne in control 1 The choke e ok ch r to et ur rb ca e th om fr e bl ca e th g in completely after disconnect Operating lever. h ic wh ng ri g in ck lo e th d, ve mo re be to ve ha 2 Should the outer cable to ve ha ll wi ud ro sh mn lu co ng ri ee st e th secures it to the lower half of to ed us be n ca rs ie pl d se no dun ro in th be unscrewed. For this, a pair of . ng ri g in ck lo e th in s le ho o tw e th engage in r ne in e th ng ti ec nn co re fo be t bu l va 3 Refitting is a reversal of remo en op y ll fu is e at pl e lv va e ok ch e th cable to the carburettor, check that 8 1/ t ou ab it aw dr th wi en th d an y ll fu ob and then depress the choke kn e th at th re su en to k ac sl gh ou en st ju e in. (3.2 mm). This will provid

e bl ca e th ate , rot on ti si po ed os cl ly ful e th in er lev le tt ro r th to et ur rb ca e th off ck ba en th d an e bl ca e th om fr d ve mo re is ck sla locknuts until all t ke ac br t or pp su the to on ti si po s thi in it k loc d an s rn tu 1% t upper nu with the lower nut. or ett bur car the on er lev le ott thr the m Ja s: car 5 On right-hand drive

and 5) 3.1 g. (Fi ‘1’ t bol p am cl the n cke Sla in the fully open position. rd, boa toe the om fr ) mm .0 (10 in. 0 0.4 d hel al ped or rat ele acc the h wit

retighten the clamp bolt. in r to et ur rb ca e th on r ve le le tt ro th e th m Ja 6 On left-hand drive cars: en th d an ’ ‘3 el iv sw e th om fr ‘1’ ip cl the fully open position. Detach the l da pe e th ld Ho ). 17 3. . ig (F ’ ‘2 r ve le l da pe e th om fr el iv sw e th ve mo re or up el iv sw e th w re sc en th d an d ar bo e 0.20 in. (5.0 mm) from the to

e th th wi t en nm ig al t ec rf pe in is el iv sw e th l ti un down the threaded rod . ip cl e th t fi Re r. ve le l da pe e th hole in

9) . ec (S ) rs ca D H L ( il ta de l ro Fig. 3.12. Accelerator cont

Fig. 3.17. Accelerator clip (1) pedai lever (2) and swivel (3) (LHD cars) (Sec. 9)

THROTTLE STOP

SCREW

Fig. 3.15. Accelerator rod clamp

bolt (1) and position rod (2) (RHD

carl (Gee, 9)

eee

=

hy

4

Fig. 3.18. Location of threttie step serew (Sec. 1)

Chapter 3/Carburation; fuel and exhaust systems

10 Carburettor - general description 1 The carburettor is a Stromberg 150CD-SEV, constant vacuum type and incorporates a variable jet which is controlled by an air valve piston and metering needle. The latter is spring-loaded against one side of the jet, to ensure a consistent fuel flow. 2 The carburettor has a manually-operated disc type cold starting device. 3 A temperature compensator is incorporated to offset variations in mixture strength caused by heat transfer from the engine to the carburettor body. 4

The carburettor

to

the

idle

bleed

is pre-set and any adjustment

screw

trimming

should

(see Section

be restricted

11). Only

if the

carburettor has been dismantled and reassembled, will re-setting of the jet adjuster be required, as described in Section 16.

11 Carburettor - idling speed adjustment should

The throttle stop screw

1

speed

is between

800

and

accurately set by connecting

850

be adjusted until the engine idling

rpm.

Obviously,

a tachometer

this can

only

be

to the engine, but normally

this can be judged fairly well. Do not permit teo low an idling speed. a e vid pro to htly slig wed cre uns is ew scr m tri idle the , cars 2 On new slightly weak mixture. Should the idling become uneven, turn the trim . seat its into d har it ew scr t oun acc no On . ise ckw clo tly gen ew scr not is it re Whe s. ion rat ope t men ust adj of it lim the is ing ego 3 The for et inl the in ks lea air for k loo , ing idl oth smo e iev possible to ach e. hos er ath bre ase nkc cra and es pip um cu va the manifold gasket,

12 Carburettor - fast idle and cold start setting

m ca e idl t fas the n, aw dr th wi ly ful is ob kn l! tro con e ok 1 When the ch ter fas a to er lev le ott thr the en op and ate rot l wil or on the carburett than normal setting. uld sho ew scr p sto the , ied cif spe as is ed spe e idl t fas the t tha er 2 In ord in. 0 0.1 is ‘A’ n io ns me di t tha so ) off ly ful e ok ch be adjusted (with the (2.5 mm) as shown in Fig. 3.20.

e ur xt mi rt sta ld co the t tha re su en to ed id ov 3 A spring-loaded pin is pr

is correct

for various

climatic

Where

conditions.

the temperature

is

ve oo gr e th to es gl an tgh ri at set be ld ou sh n above O°F (—18°C) the pi in n pi the set el, lev s thi w lo be e is ur at er mp te the e er ‘3’ (Fig. 3.21). Wh

its of re su es pr e th t ns ai ag it s es pr de st fir its groove. To turn the pin,

spring.

Fig. 3.21. Cold start device (Sec. 12) 1

13 Carburettor damper - maintaining oil level

Spring-loaded stop

2

Pin

3

Groove

c li au dr hy e th ve mo re d an w re sc un ), km 0 1 Every 6000 miles (960 damper from the top of the carburettor. r to et ur rb ca e th se rai d an 3) on ti ec (S t en em el r ne ea 2 Remove the air cl . ake int air e th o int er ng fi a g in rt se in by on air valve pist if up pto d an d ro e id gu ow ll ho e th in oil 3 Check the level of the ) mm 0 (8. in. 30 0. is el lev e th il unt oil ne gi en 30 necessary with 10W/ below the top of the guide rod. t tha e sur ke ma t bu l va mo re of r de or e th g in rs ve 4 Reassemble by re re fo be d ro e id gu ow ll ho e th rs te en d ro er mp the small collar on the da screwing the damper cap down.

14 Carburettor vent valve - adjustment De to ly al rn te in ed nt ve e ar r be am ch t oa fl 1 Fumes from the carburettor e th , ds ee sp r we lo At . le id st fa e ov ab ds the air cleaner at engine spee extraction valve.

2

of fumes direct to atmosphere

is controlled

by a ventilator

’ ‘1 w re sc op st e th st ju ad e, lv va e th of g To check the correct settin

(Fig. 3.23) until a 2 mm

e lv va e th n ee tw be ed rt se in twist drill can be

lever and the stop screw post. ed ne so al ll wi w re sc op st le tt ro th e th 3 If this adjustment is necessary,

d. ee sp ng li id d ie if ec sp e th in ta in ma to re-adjustment

) 13 . ec (S r to et ur rb ca to er mp da g in Fig. 3.22. Refitt

42

Chapter 3/Carburation; fuel and exhaust systems

15 Carburettor - removal and installation

1. Remove the air cleaner cover and element, as described in Section 3. 2 Unbolt and remove the air cleaner body from the carburettor air intake flange. 3 Disconnect the fuel inlet pipe from the carburettor. 4 Disconnect the distributor vacuum pipe from the carburettor. 5 Disconnect the choke and accelerator controls from the carburettor. 6 Unbolt the carburettor from the inlet manifold and withdraw it. 7 Installation is a reversal of removal, but always use new flange gaskets.

16 Carburettor - dismantling and reassembly

Fig. 3.23. Float chamber vent valve setting (Sec. 14) 7

Stop screw

2

1

Throttle stop screw

i\ffWy |i

My il i| XX

i ih

Fig. 3.24. Exploded view of the carburettor Hydraulic damper Damper rod collar Cover

Spring Diaphragm retainer Flexible diaphragm Air valve piston Needle retaining screw OBNAAARWH ~ Metering needle

10 11 72 13 14 15 16 17 18

Body Temperature compensator Gasket Float chamber Jet adjuster Floats Float pivot pin Cold start device Throttle shaft

19

Throttle valve plate

OOO

Clean the exterior of the carburettor before dismantling.

Chapter 3/Carburation; fuel and exhaust systems 2 The carburettor will normally only require dismantling to renew a split diaphragm or to check and adjust the float level. Dismantling the is not mechanism throttle valve plate or shaft or the choke recommended

and if these components are worn it will be preferable to

purchase a new or rebuilt unit. 3 Withdraw the hydraulic damper. 4 Unscrew the four cover securing screws and remove the cover. 5 Extract the spring, the air valve piston/diaphragm assembly, complete with metering needle. 6 \f the diaphragm is to be renewed, unscrew and remove the retaining ring. 7 To remove the float chamber, pull off the jet cap and unscrew and remove the six securing screws. Pull the float chamber from the

carburettor body. If it is stuck tight, rotate the jet adjuster slightly, having first made sure that the relative positions of float chamber and jet adjuster have been marked in manufacture, otherwise do so now. On no account attempt to remove the nylon plug from the centre of the jet adjuster. 8 Extract the float pivot, remove the twin floats and then unscrew the

inlet needle valve, noting the integral filter.

) ed ow rr (a er sh wa n lo Ny . ly mb se as t je e th of s t n e n o p m o C . 29 Fig. 3.

(Sec. 16)

43

9 If essential, the metering needle can be detached from the air valve piston after releasing the grub screw. 10 Clean all components and renew any that are worn. Obtain new gaskets, seals etc. as necessary or in the form of a repair kit. fitted 11 Screw in the needle valve ensuring that the original washer is or one of equivalent thickness. 12 Refit the float and then check the float level. To do this, invert the carburettor and with the weight of the floats on the needle valve, measure the dimension ‘A’ (Fig. 3.28) which is between the highest

point of the float and the flange (gasket removed) of the carburettor body. If this dimension (0.63 to 0.67 in./16.0 to 17.0 mm) varies, bend the tag which contacts the end of the needle valve. 13 If the jet assembly has been removed and dismantled, reassemble it and screw it into position making sure that the washers and ‘O’ rings are

correctly located. 14 Screw the jet adjuster fully into the carburettor body, install a new float chamber gasket and the float chamber itself.

15 If the metering needle has been removed from the air valve piston, reassemble it so that the nylon washer is flush with the face of the air valve piston.

) 16 . ec (S on st pi e lv va air in le ed ne ng ri te Fig. 3.30. Setting me

44 $$

—

Chapter 3/Carburation; fuel and exhaust systems eS

EEE

16 Make sure that the grub screw is not overtightened and that it mpinges on the flat that is ground on the side of the needle casing, otherwise the needle will not be biased away from the depression holes

With condition (ii) turn the adjuster jet clockwise (when viewed from above) to weaken the mixture and then repeat the test.

n the face of the air valve piston. The metering needle calibration number is visible if the needle is pulled gently from its casing. 17 To install the new diaphragm, engage the tongue on the diaphragm ower face with the slot in the air valve piston rim. Fit the diaphragm etaining ring.

from above) to enrich the mixture and then repeat the test. Do not turn the adjuster jet more than % turn at a time between tests. 24 It is emphasised that the foregoing procedure is not precise and a CO meter should be employed to accurately set the position of the jet adjuster. If necessary, the idle trim screw can be unscrewed (not more than four complete turns) to attain the necessary exhaust emission

'8 Insert the air valve/diaphragm assembly, taking great care not to damage the metering needle as it enters the jet. Engage the tongue on the upper edge of the diaphragm in the slot in the carburettor body. 19 Install the cover so that the projection on the hydraulic damper housing is towards the air cleaner mounting flange. 20 Install the carburettor to the engine and top-up the damper, as

described in Section 13. 21 It will be remembered that the jet adjuster has been screwed fully in to facilitate installation of the float chamber. Before the engine is started, it must be unscrewed two complete turns using a ‘C’ spanner or other suitable tool. 22 Start the engine (this will take a little longer than usual as the float chamber is empty) and run until normal operating tempe.ature is reached. 23 Check all the adjustments given in Sections 11, 12 and 14 and then check the mixture quality by lifting the air valve piston 0.04 in. (1.0 mm) using a thin screwdriver inserted into the carburettor air intake. With the engine idling, the action of lifting the air valve piston will produce one of the following reactions: (i) Engine speed rises momentarily and then resumes normal (ii) (iii)

idling - mixture correct. Engine speed rises and remains at this higher level before returning to idling - mixture rich. Engine speed drops or engine speed stalls - mixture weak.

With condition (iii) turn the adjuster jet anticlockwise (when viewed

levels (2.5 to 3.5%).

17 Manifolds and exhaust system - general

1 The intake manifold is bolted to the top face of the cylinder head. Always use new gaskets when installing and tighten the securing bolts

to the specified torque (photo). 2

The exhaust manifold

is mounted on the right-hand side face of the

cylinder head (photo). 3

To

facilitate

connection

of the

twin

exhaust

downpipes

to the

manifold, insert the bolts ‘1’ and ‘2’ (Fig. 3.35) through the gasket and screw them two or three turns into the flange. Now hook the slotted side of the exhaust pipe flange over these bolts. The downpipes will now be supported while the remaining bolts are screwed in. Tighten the centre bolts before the outer ones, all to specified torque. 4 The exhaust system comprises a twin downpipe, a resonator, a silencer section and a tailpipe and second resonator. The system is supported on rubber rings. 5 Examination of the exhaust pipe and silencers at regular intervals is worthwhile as small defects may be repairable when, if left they will

almost certainly require renewal of one of the sections of the system. Also,

any

leaks,

apart

from

the

noise

factor,

may

cause

poisonous

#f

Fig. 3.31. Metering needle identification mark (Sec. 16)

Fig. 3.33. Installing diaphragm to body of carburettor (Sec. 16)

Fig. 3.32. Installing diaphragm to air valve piston (Sec. 16)

Fig. 3.34. Tool engagement holes for rotating jet adjuster (Sec. 16)

Chapter 3/Carburation; fuel and’ exhaust systems

45

as matched and always

and

adjust as

described in the preceding Section.

the

Fig. 11.5. Sectional view of a front hub (Sec. 4)

the ends of the stabiliser bar to

lower arms.

2 Unscrew and remove the bolts which secure the clamps to the bodyframe and withdraw the stabiliser bar from the car. 3 Installation is a reversal of removal, but make sure that the marking on the stabiliser bar faces upwards and that the clamp insulating rubbers have their split facing the front of the car. 4 Assemble the end link rubber bushes as shown in the diagram and

Fig. 11.6. Front stabiliser bar top marking (Sec. 6) 3 Using a suitable compressor, compress the suspension lower arm. 4 Disconnect the suspension lower arm balljoint 5 Remove the pivot bolts from the inner ends and withdraw the arm complete with coil spring

coil

spring

onto

the

from the stub axle.

of the suspension arm still in its compressed

state.

6 The compressor can be carefully released and the spring separated from the suspension arm. 7 Reassembly is a reversal of removal but make sure that the end of the coil spring which is straight, locates correctly in the suspension lower arm recess. 8 Fit the rubber insulator to the top end of the spring before installing ies

bush components is also as specified in the diagram (Fig. 11.7).

9 Tighten all suspension nuts and bolts to the specified torque settings given in Specifications Section at the beginning of this Chapter.

eee

a

7 Front road springs - removal and installation ee ee

8 Front suspension arm balljoints - checking for wear and renewal a

tighten

the

link nuts so that the overall dimension

of the mounting

ee

ee

eee

1 Jack-up the front of the car and support it secu rely under the front crossmember. 2 Slacken the suspension lower arm inner pivot bolts and disconnect the stabiliser bar end link bolts from the suspension arms.

1

Raise

the

front

of

the

car

suspension lower arms. 2 Hold each of the balljoints vertical plane. Any slackness

and

support

its weight

under

in turn and rock the roadwheel

must

not be confused

with

the

in the

incorrect hub

117

Chapter 11/Suspension and steering

endfloat. 3 Where wear is detected, renew the joint according to type, described in the following paragraphs. 4 Remove the roadwheel and partially compress the roadspring described in the preceding Section.

as

as

MW)

Fig. 11.7. Front stabiliser bar end link installation diagram

A

=

DY NANNY DANDOADDOUNNDD

1.50 in. (38.0 mm) (Sec. 6)

i

(37 \ Fig. 11.8. Front coil spring compressed onto suspension lower arm

prior to removal (Sec. 7)

at se m ar r we lo on si en sp su in ng ri sp l coi t Fig. 11.11. Installing fron

(Sec. 7)

Fig. 11.10. Coil spring removed eee

‘

C.

suspension lower arm

Chapter 11/Suspension and steering

118 Upper balljoint

5 Scribe round the balljoint mounting plate to mark its position in relation to the suspension upper arm. Failure to do this will mean that the new joint will not take up the setting of the original and the camber

7

When

installation

is complete,

tighten

all bolts

to

the

specified

torque when the weight of the car is on the roadwheels.

will be altered (see Section 24). 6

locking compound and the bolts should be renewed before installing the crossmember. The threads in the bolt holes should be cleared of old compound using a tap or old bolt having a longitudinal slot cut in it.

Disconnect the balljoint taper pin from the stub axle using a suitable

separator. 7 Unscrew upper arm.

and

remove

the

nuts

which

secure

the

balljoint to the

8 Installation is a reversal of removal, but tighten the retaining nuts to specified torque. Check the front wheel alignment and steering angles at the first opportunity.

Lower balljoint 9 Remove the suspension lower arm, as described in Section 7. 10 The lower balljoint is splined externally and is pressed with considerable force into the suspension lower arm. Unless suitable pressing facilities are available it is best to take the arm to your dealer to have the old balljoint removed and the new one installed.

11 After

installation,

check

the front

wheel

alignment

and

Fig. 11.12. Sectional view of front suspension upper balljoint (Sec. 8)

steering

angles at the first opportunity.

9

Front suspension upper arm - removal, servicing and installation

1

Raise the front of the car and support it under the suspension

lower

arm. Remove the roadwheel. 2 Partially compress the roadspring as described in Section 7. 3 Disconnect upper balljoint from the stub axle. 4 Disconnect the shock absorber lower mounting. 5 Support the front hub on a block to avoid straining the flexible brake hose. 6 Unscrew and remove the suspension arm inner pivot bolt and withdraw the arm, taking great care to observe the positions of the castor

spacers (see Section 24). 7 Renewal of the suspension arm bushes can be carried out using a Press or a bolt and nut with suitable tubular distance pieces. When installing the new bushes note their correct locations in relation to the

front of the car (Fig. 11.16). 8 Installation is a reversal of removal, but refit the castor spacers in their original positions and have the front wheel alignment and steering angles checked at the first opportunity. 9 Tighten the suspension arm pivot bolt to the specified torque only when the weight of the car is on the roadwheels.

Fig. 11.13. Front suspension upper balljoint mounting (Sec. 8)

10 Front suspension lower arm - removal, servicing and installation 1 Removal of the arm complete with spring is described in Section 7. Gently release the compressor and remove the roadspring from the arm. 2 If the bushes are worn, a press will be required or a bolt and nut and suitable distance pieces. 3 The new bushes should be installed so that the flanges are towards

the rear of the car and with the cut-outs as shown in Fig. 11.19. Make sure that the flanges of the bushes are in contact with the arm. 4 Installation is a reversal of removal but tighten the pivot bolts to the specified torque when the weight of the car is on the roadwheels.

11 Front crossmember - removal and installation

1 Unscrew the pinch bolt from the steering column flexible coupling and separate the steering shaft from the pinion, after withdrawing the bolts which hold the rack and pinion assembly to the crossmember and pulling the assembly downwards. 2 With the weight of the car on the roadwheels, disconnect the shock absorber lower mountings and detach the stabiliser bar clamps from the body frame. 3 Disconnect both front flexible hoses from the rigid brake lines and extract the clips from the support brackets.

4 Support the weight of the engine (either by attaching a hoist or placing a jack with insulating wooden block under the sump) and disconnect the engine front mountings. 5 Remove the suspension lower arm to crossmember pivot bolts and the crossmember inner and outer mounting bolts. 6 The crossmember outer mounting bolt threads are coated with a

Fig. 11.15. Suspension upper arm components (Sec. 9)

119

Chapter 11/Suspension and steering

of t on fr to ow rr (a on ti la al st in sh bu m ar r pe Fig. 11.16. Suspension up

car)(Sec. 9)

r we lo on si en sp su t on fr on t ou tcu ge Fig. 11.19. Position of bush flan

arm (Sec. 10)

Fig. 11.18. Front suspension lower arm bush installation (Sec. 10)

r te ou ) (2 s lt bo ng ti un mo r ne in r be em Fig. 11.21. Front crossm

) 11 . ec (S ) (1 lt bo t vo pi m ar r we mounting bolts (3) and suspension lo

on ti la al st in d an g in st te l, va mo re er 42 Rear shock absorb

1 2 3

) 11 . ec (S lt bo h c n i p g n i l p u o c le ib ex fl t af sh ng ri ee St 0. Fig. 11.2

. le ax ar re e th r de un r ca e th of ht ig Jack-up and support the we t. nu t vo pi e th ng vi mo re by ng ti Disconnect the lower moun le ib ss ce ac e ar ts nu ng ti un mo r pe The shock absorber up

after first be

st mu l ne pa im tr nd ha tgh ri e Th removing the floor panels. r te ap Ch ee (s d ve mo re be n ca l ne pa r oo fl nd ha tgh ri e th re fo be d remove ‘ 3, Section 6). at th to y wa r la mi si a in it st te d an er rb so ab k oc sh e th aw dr th 4 Wi r. te ap Ch is th of 3, n io ct Se described in

J

20

Chapter 11/Suspension and steering

5 installation is a reversal of removal but make sure that the rubber cups and bushes are correctly positioned and tighten the mounting nut so that the exposed portion of the spindle is as specified in Fig. 11.22.

13 Rear stabiliser bar - removal and installation

1 Unscrew and remove the end link bolts from the axle tube brackets. 2 Unbolt the rubber insulated clamps which secure the stabiliser bar to the underbody. 3 Installation is a reversal of removal.

the arm from its anchorages. 3 If the flexible bushes are worn or have deteriorated, press them out or draw them out using a bolt, nut and tubular distance piece. Installation of the new bushes will be facilitated if they are dipped in soapy water or brake fluid. 4 Installation is a reversal of removal but remember to pull the handbrake cable beneath the arm before inserting the pivot bolts. 5 Tighten the suspension arm bolts to the specified torque only after wooden gauge blocks have been inserted between the axle casing and bump stops and the rear of the car loaded as described in Chapter 8, Section 7, paragraph 12.

14 Panhard rod - removal, servicing and installation 1 The Panhard rod is located between a bodyframe anchorage and a bracket on the left-hand axle tube. 2 Removal is simply a matter of unscrewing and removing the securing nuts. 3 If the flexible bushes are worn, press the old ones out or draw them Out using a nut and bolt and a tubular distance piece. To facilitate insertion of the new ones, dip them in soapy water or brake fluid. 4 Installation is a reversal of removal but tighten the two nuts to the specified torque with the weight of the car on the roadwheels.

15 Rear suspension arm - removal and installation Fig. 11.22. Rear shock absorber upper mounting diagram (Sec. 12) 1 Release the handbrake control lever and prise the handbrake cable from the small clip which is located on the underside of the suspension arm. If there is not enough slack in the cable, release the equaliser on

A

=

0.31 in. (8.0mm)

the relay rod (Chapter 9). 2

Unscrew and remove the two suspension arm pivot bolts and remove

Fig. 11.23. Rear stabiliser bar mountings (Sec. 13)

Fig. 11.24. Panhard rod mountings (Sec. 14)

Fig. 11.25. Rear suspension arm showing handbrake cable clip (Sec. 15)

Chapter 11/Suspension and steering

16 Rear roadspring - removal and installation 1 Jack-up the rear of the car and support the bodyframe side members on stands. Place a jack under the rear axle differential unit. 2 Disconnect the stabiliser bar ‘U’ shaped clamps from the underbody. Slacken the suspension arm pivot bolts, 3 4 Disconnect the shock absorber lower mounting on the side from which the spring is being removed. If both springs are being removed, disconnect one shock absorber at a time.

121

5 Now lower the axle gently, avoiding any strain on the flexible brake hose. Pull downwards on the spring and extract it together with flexible seats. 6 When installing a spring make sure that the straightened end of the spring locates in the axle tube seat, also that the step in the upper seat is in contact with the end of the spring coil. 7 Tighten the suspension arm pivot bolts using the wooden blocks and weighting the car as described in Chapter 8, Section 7, paragraph 12.

17 Steering wheel - removal and installation

1 2

Set the front roadwheels in the straight-ahead position. Prise out the medallion located in the centre of the steering wheel.

3 Unscrew and remove the now exposed steering wheel retaining nut. 4 Mark the relative position of the wheel to the steering shaft by dot punching the end faces. 5 Maintaining pressure with the thumbs on the end of the shaft, pull the steering wheel off its splines. On no account attempt to jar it off, as this may damage the inbuilt column collapsible plastic retainers. If the wheel is excessively tight, use a suitable puller.

6 When installing the steering wheel, mate the alignment marks before pressing it fully home on the splines. When correctly installed, the longer part of the rim between the spokes should be at the top when the roadwheels are in the ‘straight-ahead’ position. 7 Ensure that the projections and slots of the striker bush, cancelling

sleeve and lugs are correctly engaged before wheel retaining nut to the specified torque.

tightening

the steering

) 17 . ec (S ts en on mp co r pe up mn lu co ng Fig. 11.30. Steeri ) 16 . ec (S at se r pe up in d le al st in y tl Fig. 11.29. Rear roadspring correc

1 2

Striker bush ve ee sl ng li el nc ca ch it sw r Indicato

3

Lugs on steering wheel boss

122

Chapter 11/Suspension and steering

18 Steering column shrouds - removal and refitting

20 Steering column - removal, servicing and installation

1 The two halves of the steering column upper shroud can be removed without having to withdraw the steering wheel. 2 Unscrew and remove the securing screws and lift the shrouds away. In the case of the lower shroud, if it is to be removed completely then the choke contro! will have to be disconnected and withdrawn as described in Chapter 3, Section 8.

1 2

19 Steering column - inspection for damage

1 In the event of a front end collision, however slight, the collapsible type steering column should be examined for damage. 2 Check for gaps between the column upper mounting pads and

bracket.

If gaps similar to those shown

in Fig. 11.32 are to be seen,

then the column has partially collapsed due to the plastic retainers having sheared. 3 If the overall length of the lattice section of the column is less than 10.37 in. (263.5 mm) then again the column has suffered partial collapse. 4 Where damage to the steering column has been proved, then the column must be renewed. 5 Checking the steering shaft can only be carried out after its removal from the column, as described in Section 20.

Remove the flexible coupling pinch bolt. Remove the column lower mounting bolt by drilling a hole in its

centre

(1/8 in. - 3.0 mm

twist drill) and unscrewing

it with a screw

extractor. Access to this bolt can only be gained after removal clutch and brake pedal assemblies as described in Chapter 5.

3

of the

Remove the steering column upper shrouds.

4 Disconnect the lead from the battery negative terminal and then disconnect the plugs to the column switches. 5 Remove the column upper bracket bolts and withdraw the column assembly into the car interior. If the flexible coupling will not disengage easily, do not attempt to tap it off but turn the steering wheel from side-to-side fractionally and also insert a thick bladed screwdriver in the coupling clamp slot.

6 7

Remove the steering wheel (Section 17). Withdraw the combination switch (Chapter 10).

8

Unlock

the

steering

column

lock

by turning

the ignition

key to

position ‘I’, ‘Il’, or ‘IN’. 9 Extract the upper bearing inner of the shaft to partially eject it from 10 With the shaft in this position, pips and withdraw the bearing, then

circlip and gently tap the upper end the column. release the lower bearing locating the shaft.

Fig. 11.33. Measurement of undamaged steering column (Sec. 19)

A

=

10.37 in. (263.5 mm)

Fig. 11.34. Steering column lower mounting bracket shear bolt

(Sec. 20)

Fig. 11.35. Sectional view of steering column upper bearing. Circlip

arrowed (Sec. 20)

Fig. 11.36. Releasing steering column lower bearing (Sec. 20)

Chapter 11/Suspension and steering

123

Fig. 11.37. Steering shaft showing plastic

shear type retainers (Sec. 20) Overall length cf shaft must be between

38.64 and 38.68 in. (981.5 and 982.5 mm) collapsible mechanism to shear. 17 Check that the steering column gaiter is in good condition and fitted securely to the aperture in the toe board. 18 Lower the column into position making sure that the cut-out in the shaft is towards the pinch bolt side of the flexible coupling clamp. The different designs of the couplings and direction of entry of the clamp pinch bolt between LHD and RHD cars should be noted. 19 Install the mounting bracket bolts and the pinch bolt finger-tight and then install a new lower mounting bolt to a torque of 15 Ib ft (11

Nm) only. 20 Tighten

the upper

mounting

bracket

bolts and the coupling pinch

bolt to the specified torque and then return to the lower mounting bolt and tighten it until its head shears off. 21 Install the steering column combination switch, the steering wheel and the column shrouds. 22 Reconnect the electrical harness plugs and battery. 23 Reassemble the clutch and brake pedals.

21 Steering column lock - removal and installation 1 2

Remove the steering column, as described in the preceding Section. Drill the centre of each bolt which secures the lock clamp to the

column with a 1/8 in. (3.0 mm) screw extractor.

twist drill. Remove the bolts with a

3 When installing the lock use new shear bolts but only tighten them enough to hold the lock securely to the column and then check the operation of the lock by inserting the ignition key and ensuring that the tongue of the lock engages smoothly and positively in the shaft cut-out. the ten tigh lly fina then and y ssar nece if lock the of tion posi the st Adju bolts fully until the heads shear off.

22 Steering gear - removal, overhaul and installation

1 Disconnect separator. 2

the trackrod ends from the steering arms using a suitable

le xib fle ft sha ng ri ee st e th om fr t bol h nc pi e th ve Unscrew and remo

coupling.

e th to r gea ng ri ee st the ld ho h ic wh ts bol 3 Unscrew and remove the ult fic dif is ng li up co le xib fle e th If . ay aw r gea crossmember and lift the ng ri ee st e th n tur t bu ft sha ng ri ee st e th om fr it p ta to disengage, do not e th in r ve ri wd re sc ed ad bl k ic th a ert ins o als d an e wheel from side to sid coupling clamp slot to expand it slightly. e th ve mo re d an w re sc un d an ts nu ck lo 4 Release the trackrod-end trackrod-ends and the locknuts. 5

s. ow ll be g in ud cl ex st du e th aw dr th wi d an ps am cl Release the

6

spanners,

Using

two

open-ended

hold

the

rack

quite

still and

unscrew the inner balljoint assemblies.

) 21 . ec (S s lt bo ad he r ea sh ck lo mn lu co ng ri ee Fig. 11.40. St er aft ted rac ext be can eve sle ber rub and g rin bea 11 The column upper removing the circlip and washer. not has ft sha the t tha k ec ch and ts en on mp co rn wo 12 Renew any the e ur as me s, thi do To . ion lis col or ct pa im to partially collapsed due ft sha the , ied cif spe ns io ns me di the e sid out is s thi if d an gth overall len

must be renewed (see Fig. 11.37).

ase gre h wit g rin bea r pe up the g in ck pa by , ly mb se as re 13 Commence the o int em th ng ssi pre ore bef it r ove eve sle er bb ru and placing the column, r pe up e th at s ve oo gr e re th the of re nt ce the 14 Install a new ‘O' ring in end of the shaft, and g rin bea er low ft sha the at g rin t fel the o int l wel ase gre 15 Work the s mit per n tio sec d ste wai its il unt mn lu co then install the shaft to the

g rin bea the t tha e sur ke Ma . mn lu co the to ted fit lower bearing to be pips are fully located. , ly on re su es pr nd ha g in us mn lu co e th 16 Press the shaft fully into e th p ta to d te mp te be t no Do t. af sh e th pulling on the upper end of shaft

into

the column

as this will

cause

the plastic

inserts of the

Fig. 11.41. Releasing steering rack inner balljoint (Sec. 22)

124

Chapter 11/Suspension and steering

7 Release the locknut and washer and thrust bearing.

Withdraw

8

the

dust

withdraw

hold

cover,

the

adjusting

the pinion

screw,

spring,

shaft quite still and

unscrew the pinion retaining nut.

9 Extract the pinion shaft. 10 Extract the rack from the pinion end of the steering gear housing to avoid damaging the housing bushes. 11 Extract the circlip and drive out the lower pinion shaft housing. 12 Examine all components for wear and renew as necessary. If the upper pinion shaft needle bearing must be renewed, press it out using a suitable tubular drift or spacer and install the new one in a similar way. 13 Commence reassembly by installing the pinion shaft lower bearing and securing with a new circlip.

14 Fill the

rack

housing between

the bushes

21 Centre the rack and offer up the steering gear so that the flat on the steering shaft is in alignment with the pinion coupling flange. 22 Tighten the steering gear mounting bolts to the specified torque. 23 Install the flexible coupling pinch bolt and tighten to the specified

torque. 24 Connect the trackrod-end balljoints to the steering arms and then adjust the front wheel toe-in, as described in Section 24.

with 2 oz (50 g) of

recommended grease. 15 Install the rack from the pinion end of the housing and then centralise it so that it protrudes an equal amount at each end of the housing. 16 Apply grease to the pinion shaft and housing and install the shaft so that the slot in the coupling is aligned with the rack thrust bearing adjusting screw. Install the thrust washer to the pinion shafz, tighten the retaining nut to a torque of 11 Ib ft (15 Nm) only. 17 Install the rack thrust bearing, spring and adjusting screw and with the rack still centralised, tighten the adjusting screw until a slight resistance is felt and then back off the screw between 30 and 60°. Tighten the locknut to a torque of 50 Ib ft (68 Nm) and check that the pinion will move the rack over its full length of travel without binding.

18 Fit the inner balljoint assemblies and tighten to 66 Ib ft (90 Nm) torque and stake securely. 19 Install the flexible bellows but do not tighten the clamps at this

Fig. 11.42. Unscrewing the pinion retaining nut (Sec. 22)

stage. 20 Spin on the trackrod-end ends an equal amount,

locknuts and then screw on the trackrod-

Fig. 11.43. Exploded view of the steering gear (Sec. 22) eeGip 2 Bellows 3 Clip 4 Locknut 5 Adjusting screw 6 Spring 7 Thrust bearing 8 Rack housing clip

13 14 715 16 17 18 19 20

Rack housing Trackrod end Locknut Trackrod Inner balljoint Rack Plug Pinion retaining nut

9

Pinion shaft upper needle

21

Washer

bearing Dust cover Pinion Flexible coupling

22 23

Circlip Bearing

10 11 12

Chapter 11/Suspension and steering

125

13 Check that the rack bellows are not twisted and then retighten the clips.

23 Trackrod-end balljoints - testing and renewal 1 Periodically inspect the condition of the trackrod-end balljoint dust excluding boots. If they are split, the complete joint will have to be renewed as the boots are not supplied separately. 2 The balljoints are spring loaded with nylon seats and require no lubrication. 3 If any free movement in a vertical direction can be felt when the trackrod is gripped and moved up and down, then the balljoint is worn and must be renewed. 4 Release the trackrod-end locknut one quarter turn only. 5 Disconnect the trackrod-end from the steering arm using a suitable separator. the g din hol e tim e sam the at end odckr tra the ove rem and w 6 Unscre trackrod quite still so that the rack bellows are not twisted. 7 Screw on the new trackrod-end to the same relative position as the old one, so that the locknut will require one quarter turn only to ts fla the ng usi de itu att t rec cor its in end odckr tra the d Hol it. k loc provided. and ted ica ubr unl and an cle is pin er tap int ljo bal 8 Make sure that the connect it to the steering arm. 9 Check the front wheel alignment, as described in Section 24.

24 Steering angles and front wheel alignment 1 Accurate front wheel alignment is essential for good steering and slow tyre wear. Before considering the steering angle, check that the tyres are correctly inflated, that the front wheels are not buckled, the

hub bearings are not worn or incorrectly adjusted and that the steering linkage is in good order, without slackness or wear at the joints. 2 Wheel alignment consists of four factors: Camber, is the angle at which the front wheels are set from the vertical when viewed from the front of the car. Positive camber is the amount (in degrees) that the wheels are tilted outwards at the top from the vertical. Adjustment of the camber angle is carried out by rotating the suspension upper swivel joint flange through 180°. This movement will

alter the camber angle by 0°50’, (see Fig. 11.13). 3 Castor is the angle between the steering axis and a vertical line when viewed from each side of the car. Positive castor is when the steering axis is inclined rearward. Adjustment of the castor angle is carried out by varying the thickness of the spacers located between the suspension upper arm and not is it , ges gau ial spec for d nee the to Due er. emb ssm cro recommended that either the camber or castor angles are altered by the home mechanic.

of nt fro the m fro wed vie n whe le, ang the is on ati lin inc s axi ng 4 Steeri the n wee bet wn dra e Jin ary gin ima an and al tic ver the n wee the car, bet upper and lower suspension pivots. ide ins nt fro the n ee tw be ce tan dis the h ic wh by 5 Toe-in is the amount

edges

of the roadwheels

(measured

at hub

diametrically opposite distance measured of the front roadwheels.

6

Front

wheel

tracking

(toe-in)

checks

height)

between

are

is less than

the

the rear inside edges

best

carried

out

with

d an ve ati ern alt te ura acc ly ab on as re a but t en pm ui eq modern setting adjustment procedure may be carried out as follows: ad ahe htaig str the in ls ee wh the h wit nd ou gr el 7 Place the car on lev position, om fr de ma ily eas be y ma e On e. ug ga -in toe a 8 Obtain or make le ab st ju ad an ng vi ha g, in us ho ll be d an mp su e th tubing, cranked to clear nut and setscrew at one end. l ee wh er inn o tw e th n ee tw be ce an st di e th e 9 Using the gauge, measur rims at hub height at the rear of the wheels. ds) war for or s rd wa ck ba car the g in sh pu (by ls ee wh 10 Rotate the

or st ca l ro nt co h ic wh s er ac sp m ar r pe up on si en sp su t Fig. 11.46. Fron

angle (Sec. 24

A

Nearest front of car

B

Towards rear of car

the e ur as me ge, gau the ng usi in aga and through 180° (half a turn) of nt fro the at s rim el whe er inn two the n distance of hub height betwee 0 (4. in, 4 0.2 and 6 0.1 n ee tw be be uld sho t en em ur the wheels. This meas and el whe the of r rea the at en tak y usl to 6.0 mm) less than that previo represents the correct toe-in. nd -e od kr ac tr e th n ke ac sl t, ec rr co in be to d un 11 Where the toe-in is fo locknuts and the rack bellows outer clips.

e th k ec ch re en th d an nt ou am l ua eq an s od kr ac 12 Rotate each of the tr

toe-in.

When

adjustment

is correct, tighten the locknuts,

trackrod-ends in the centres of their arcs of travel.

holding the

k ac tr g in st ju ad to r io pr ip cl s Fig. 11.47. Slackening a steering bellow

(Sec. 24)

126

Chapter 11/Suspension and steering

25 Roadwheels and tyres

1 Whenever the roadwheels are removed it is a good idea to clean the insides of the wheels to remove accumulations of mud and in the case of the front ones, disc pad dust. 2 Check the condition of the wheel for rust and repaint if necessary. 3 Examine the wheel stud holes. If these are tending to become elongated or the dished recesses in which the nuts seat have worn or become overcompressed, then the wheel will have to be renewed. 4 With a roadwheel removed, pick out any embedded flints from the tread and check for splits in the sidewalls or damage to the tyre carcass generally.

5 Where the depth of tread pattern is 1 mm or less, the tyre must be renewed. ; 6 Rotating of the roadwheels to even out wear isa worthwhile idea if the wheels have been balanced off the car. Include the’Spare wheel in the rotational pattern. 7 =\f the wheels have been balanced on the car then they cannot be moved round the car as the balance of wheel, tyre and hub will be

upset. 8 It is recommended

that wheels are re-balanced halfway through the life of the tyres to compensate for the loss of tread rubber, due to wear. 9 Finally, always keep the tyres (including the spare) inflated to the recommended pressures and always replace the dust caps on the tyre valves. Tyre pressures are best checked first thing in the morning when the tyres are cold.

26 Fault diagnosis - suspension and steering _—_ e _-_ eee ee

Symptoms

Reasons e e e eee ee

Lost motion at steering wheel

Wear in rack and pinion Wear in trackrod-end balljoints

Steering wander

Wear in gear or linkage Incorrect front wheel alignment Incorrectly adjusted or worn front hub bearings Worn suspension swivel balljoints

Heavy or stiff steering

Incorrect front wheel alignment

Seized balljoint Dry rack assembly

Distorted shaft/column Wheel wobble and vibration

Roadwheels out of balance Roadwheel buckled Incorrect front wheel alignment Faulty shock absorber Weak coil spring

Excessive pitching or rolling on corners or during braking

Faulty shock absorber Weak or broken coil spring

Chapter 12 Bodywork and fittings Contents Body interior trim panels - removal and installation aa * Bonnet - removal and installation

zine si

a bees el

Heater matrix - removal and installation Maintenance - bodywork and underframe

Bonnet lock - removal, refitting and adjustment Bumpers - removal and installation... sii

x nae

a ey

Maintenance - hinges and locks Maintenance - upholstery and carpets

on 33

15 ne i) e2 wn i + | Sree ed ee 8 see 1 ane ee cave S20 4

mab we ee rd Door - removal and installation Aes oe iia Door glass - removal and installation ... sab ee es Door lock - removal and installation... es Doors - tracing rattles and their rectification. Door window regulator and cable - removal and installation | se Fresh air ducts and grilles - removal and installation 0 a ade Front wing - removal and installation ... ees on if General description es “se Heater and ventilation system-‘descriotion ds =e x “ae = Heater fan - removal and refitting

1

24 40)

General description

LT

Maintenance - bodywork and underframe

1

1 The general condition of a car’s bodywork is the one thing that significantly affects its value. Maintenance is easy but needs to be regular and particular. Neglect, particularly after minor damage, can lead quickly to further deterioration and costly repair bills. It is important also to keep watch on those parts of the car not immediately visible, for instance the underside, inside all the wheel arches and the lower part of the engine compartment.

The

basic

maintenance

routine

for the

bodywork

is washing

-

preterably with a lot of water, from a hose. This will remove all the loose solids which may have stuck to the car. It is important to flush these off in such a way as to prevent grit from scratching the finish. The wheel arches and underbody need washing in the same way to remove any accumulated mud which will retain moisture and tend to encourage rust. Paradoxically enough, the best time to clean the underly ough thor is mud the when her weat wet in is s arche l whee and body wet and soft. In very wet weather the underbody is usually cleaned of for time good a is this and y call mati auto s tion mula accu large inspection,

3

Periodically it is a good idea to have the whole of the underside of

a that so ded, inclu ent artm comp e engin ed, clean m stea the car and rs repai r mino what see to out ed carri be can ction inspe thorough es garag many at able avail is ing clean m Stea sary. neces are renovations h whic e grim oily of tion mula accu of val remo for and is necessary e, engin the near areas in certa in thick cake to wed sometimes is allo one are there able, avail not are ties facili m stea If axle. gearbox and back ed. appli brush be can h whic able avail nts solve e greas lent excel or two The dirt can then be simply hosed off.

4

an give to er leath ois cham a with off wipe After washing paintwork,

unspotted

added

clear finish.

protection

A coat

against

of clear protective wax polish will give

chemical

pollutants

in the

air.

5 4 19 10 11 18 17 16 9

Major bodywork damage - repair Minor bodywork damage - repair = Radiator grille moulding - removal and refitting a fe Rear quarter light (fixed type) - glass renewal Rear quarter light (opening type) - removal and installation Tailgate -removal and installation Tailgate glass- removal and installation Tailgate lock - removal and refitting Windscreen glass - removal and installation

3 Maintenance - upholstery and carpets eee a 2S

2

6