Haynes Vauxhall Victor & VX4/90 FE Series Owners Workshop Manual 0856965413, 9780856965418

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VAUXHALL =... CYOR &WYC 1972 to 1978 All models 51759 cc 5 2279 cc

WU TD fithdrawn

EDINBURGH CITY LIBRARIES Reference Department q THIs BOOK MUST NOT BE REMOVED UNDER ANY PRETEXT FROM THE REFERENCE DEPARTMENT. INFRINGEMENT OF THIS RULE RENDERS THE OFFENDER LIABLE TO PROSECUTION.

Before leaving the Library readers must return the books to one of the attendants at the issue desk, or they will be held responsible for them. Readers are required to take care of the books. Writing or drawing with pen or pencil on any part of a book, or turning down the leaves, or cutting or mutilating them, will be treated as serious damage. q CoNVERSATION IN THE REFERENCE DEPARTMENT IS ANNOYING TO STUDENTS, AND IS NOT isiniays eleSicielee Sie a dad ap alsinelsaleth suivreniajecisieiciawls o(a¥/s sles als-aisisivioemmie

Class.

*

Location.

:

seis

Accession.

eas

Vauxhall Victor

&VX 4/90FE series Owners Workshop Manual by J H Haynes Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers

and

B L Chalmers -Hunt

TEng (CEI), AMIMI, AMIRTE, AMVBRA

Models

covered

Victor series: Victor Saloon & Estate 1759cc Victor Saloon & Estate 2279cc VX 4/90 Saloon 2279cc

VX series: VX 1800 Saloon & Estate 1759cc VX 2300°Saloon & Estate 2279cc VX 4/90 Saloon 2279cc VX 2300 GLS Saloon & Estate 2279cc

ISBN 0 85696 541 3 ©

Haynes Publishing Group 1973, 1974, 1979, 1981, 1983, 1987 — scr FGHI

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission

in writing from the copyright holder.

Printed in England

(708 - 1N5)

Haynes Publishing Group Sparkford Nr Yeovil Somerset BA22 7JJ England Haynes Publications, Inc 861 Lawrence Drive Newbury Park California 91320 USA

E.C.L.

DSIRE

LOU

ATE

DIET

| EDINBURGH CITY LIBRARIES

TAC

raion

Acknowledgements technical information and permission to reproduce certain illustrations; Castrol Limited who supplied details on lubrication, and the Champion Sparking Plug Company Ltd who supplied

provided by Lloyds Industries Limited who supply “Turtle Wax’, ‘Dupli-color Holts’ and other Holts range products. Lastly, thanks are due to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual, particularly Stanley

the

illustrations

Randolph, Bruce Gilmour and John Rose.

The

bodywork

Thanks are due to Vauxhall

About

showing repair

Motors Limited for the supply of

the various

photographs

sparking used

plug conditions.

in this

manual

were

this manual

Its aim The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your car. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage), provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will make full use of the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler

jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage, and having to go there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs the garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads. The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Then the tasks are described and photographed in a step-by-step sequence so that even a novice can do the work.

Its arrangement The manual

is divided into thirteen Chapters, each covering a

logical divided

sub-division of the vehicle. The Chapters are each into consecutively numbered Sections and the Sections

into paragraphs (or sub-sections) which are numbered following on from the Section they are in, eg 5.1, 5.2, 5.3 etc. It is freely illustrated, especially in those parts where there is a detailed sequence of operations to be carried out. There are two forms of illustration: figures and photographs. The figures are numbered in sequence with decimal numbers, according to their position in the Chapter; eg, Fig.6.4 is the 4th drawing/ illustration in Chapter 6. Photographs are numbered (either individually or in related groups) the same as the Section or subsection of the text where the operation they show is described. There is an alphabetical index at the back of the manual as well as a contents list at the front. References to the ‘left’ or ‘right’ of the vehicle are in the sense of a person facing forwards in the driver's seat. Whilst every care is taken to ensure that the information in this manual is correct no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

Contents Page

Acknowledgements

aay

2

About this manual

2

Introduction

4

Ordering spare parts

4

Chapter 1.

Engine

11

Chapter 2.

Cooling system

Chapter 3.

Fuel system and carburation

56

Chapter 4

Ignition system

77

Chapter 5

Clutch and actuating mechanism

86

Chapter 6

Gearbox and automatic transmission

93

Chapter 7

Propeller shaft

120

Chapter 8

Rear axle

122

Chapter9

Braking system

131

|

45

Chapter 10 Electrical system

148

Chapter 11

Suspension and steering

182

Chapter 12

Bodywork and underframe

201

Chapter 13 Supplement

ee

ea

AS OS

217

ee

Ce

ee

eee

ee eee a 258

Safety first!

eee Index

Sere were

ares ore eerie

se

Se

Oe

ee es 260

Introduction The ‘Transcontinental’ was introduced in February of 1972 as Vauxhall’s new model to update their Victor range. The ‘FD’, the previous model had only been in production for some four years, when almost overnight ,a new completely restyled Victor using a very young ‘European’ marketing was announced approach, Inwardly, however, little was changed although engine sizes were juggled so that the smaller model has an 1800 engine as opposed to the 1600, and the larger has a 2300 engine as

opposed to the 2000 engine. The usual range options of automatic transmission, an estate car and the increased performance VX4/90 model are available. Altogether, the ‘FE’ model is larger, certainly more expensive but generally improved over the ‘FD’ and to most eyes better looking, particularly the estate car. Whilst it is not going to make anyone greatly enthuse about it, it does provide a worthy successor in the ‘Victor’ range and offers yet another choice in this highly competitive slice of the market.

Ordering spare parts Buy genuine Vauxhall spares from a Vauxhall dealer direct or through a local garage. I!f you go to an authorised dealer, genuine parts can usually be supplied from stock. Always have details of the car’s serial number and engine number available when ordering parts. If you can also take along the part to be renewed it is helpful. Modifications are continually being made and many are not publicised. A storeman ina parts department is quite justified in saying that he cannot guarantee the correctness of a part unless the relevant numbers are available. The vehicle identification plate is attached to the instrument panel, at the left hand side, and can be read through the windshield glass. This plate is stamped with the model and chassis number (Fig.1). A service parts identification plate is attached to the right hand front inner wing panel adjacent to the battery. This plate

bears the following information in the following sequence: Model, Destination, Job number, Paint code, Trim code, Option

codes. (Fig.2). The engine number

is stamped on the rear right hand side of

the cylinder block adjacent to the clutch bellhousing (Fig.3). There is a code letter ‘S’ or ‘EL’ cast on the side of the cylinder block to differentiate between 1759cc and 2279cc

engines respectively (Fig.4). A further

code

letter

‘H’ or ’L’ stamped

on

the cylinder

block, adjacent to the distributor identifies between ‘high’ and

‘low’ compression engines (Fig.5). The transmission unit has a special manufacture date code stamped on the extension housing (Fig.6). Where an overdrive unit is fitted a serial number plate is attached to the right hand side of the main casing. The number must havea prefix of 28/115805/ (Fig.7). The rear axle has a special manufacture date code stamped on the housing cover (Fig.8). The axle ratio is indicated by a letter stamped on the pinion housing (Fig.9). The code is as follows:

Cc D H J K

10/39 11/38 11/34 10/41 11/41

When obtaining new parts remember that many assemblies can be exchanged. This is very much cheaper than buying them outright and throwing the old part away. Before handing back an item in exchange always clean it to remove dirt and oil.

1.

Vehicle identification plate

3.

Engine number

5. Engine compression ratio code

7.

2.

Service parts identification plate

4.

Cylinder block identification

6. Transmission unit date code

Overdrive serial number plate

8.

9.

Rear axle ratio

code letter

Rear axle date code

VAUXHALL VX 2300 GLS

Routine maintenance The manufacturers base their own servicing operations on a time factor rather than on mileage covered. They take 12,000

manufacturers gives a 6,000 mile interval between engine oil changes. Many owners prefer to change the oil more frequently particularly where much of the driving is in short runs or stop/start situations, where the engine does not get opportunity to warm up completely or operates consistently in heavy traffic. These conditions take far more out of an engine than steady runs in top gear.

miles per annum as an average to”base this service plan. This system is very satisfactory as it enables both the owner and garage to plan servicing in advance on a regular basis andconfirms that

deterioration

of a vehicle’s performance

and

safety

is not

_ necessarily connected with the number of miles covered. Where mileage is consistently and significantly in excess of the average, the time intervals between services may be reduced in proportion. By implication, the servicing cycle recommended by the

The maintenance information given is not detailed in this section as information will be found in the appropriate chapters of this book.

Weekly Coolant level in radiator. 1 inch (25 mm) below bottom edge of filler neck. Engine oil level - dipstick. Level must be above ‘Add oil’ mark. Quantity required from

‘Add oil’ to ‘Full’ is 2.85 pints (1.62 litres). Battery electrolyte level. Should just cover the plate separators. Wipe away moisture or dirt from battery case exterior. Tyre pressures. Examine also tread depth and for signs of other damage.

—

Safety check service S. Brakes. Master cylinder fluid level. Hydraulic pipes and hoses inspection.

Wheel cylinder inspection. Brake shoes - adjustment. Handbrake lever setting. Steering. Tyre condition. Front wheel hub bearings adjustment Track rods and ball joints - damage and/or wear. Suspension. Suspension arm upper and lower ball joints - wear Springs - level and unbroken Automatic transmission Fluid level correct

General Lights in order Exhaust system intact Windscreen wiper blades serviceable

Seat belts and anchorage points in order. Service A Brakes Examine linings and pads for wear. Renew adjust. Clutch and transmission

if necessary and

Check and adjust clutch lever free play Gearbox oil level - check and top up

Rear axle oil level - check and top up Engine Renew oil and oil filter cartridge

Carburettor

damper

dashpots(s)

(Stromberg

carburettors

only)- check oil Fuel pump - clean filter Spark plugs - remove, clean and reset Distributor contact points - adjust gap. Clean or renew

necessary

if

Oil filter cartridge renewal

8

Routine Maintenance

Valve clearances - check and adjust Fan belt - check and adjust tension Engine idling speed - adjust carburettor if necessary.

Service B

Distributor - lubricate Suspension Grease upper and lower arm ball joints Service C

Carry out service ‘A’ and add the following:

Brakes

Carry out Service B and add the following:

Steering

Disc brake servo air filter - renew

Automatic transmission Clean all ventilation holes and slots around the torque convertor cover. Scrape all dirt accumulations from surrounding areas

Remove front wheel bearings, clean and repack with grease

Brakes Renew hydraulic fluid and cylinder seals Automatic transmission Renew fluid

Engine Spark plugs - renew

Renew oil pump suction screen Adjust low band servo.

Carburettor air cleaner - renew paper element

\\\\

\\ \\\

A\\\\

9

Front suspension

arm

ball joint grease nipples

Clutch pedal free play adjustment

Routine maintenance

LUBRICATION

Engine oil Weekly Check the oil level using the dipstick (5) and if necessary add sufficient Castrol GTX through the filler orifice (1) to bring the level up to the ‘FULL’ mark. 2.85 pints (1.62 litres) will raise the level from the ‘ADD oil’ to ‘FULL’ marks.

9

CHART

Rear axle oil

Service A Remove filler plug (8) and top up if necessary to the level of plug orifice with Castrol Hypoy 90. Examine the casing for any signs of leakage. Air filter

Service A When warm,

undo

the sump

drain

plug and drain old oil.

Renew the oil filter element (3). Replace the drain plug and refill

with fresh Castro! GTX. Under abnormal conditions (city traffic, excess mileage, dusty or extreme temperature conditions), change the oil more frequently.

Capacity - dry: — 8.5 pints (4.83litres Refill including filter: — 8 pints (4.55 litres) Gearbox oil

Service A Remove the filler plug (9) and top up if necessary to the level of the plug orifice with Castrol Hypoy 90, examine for any signs of leaks. Capacity - Less overdrive — 2.4 pints (1.36 litres)

Capacity - With overdrive — 3.0 pints (1.70 litres) Automatic transmission

at

Check the fluid level on the dipstick whilst engine is running normal working temperature. Top up as necessary with

Castrol TO ‘Dexron’ (R). Service ‘C’ - Drain and refill Capacity - refill — 4.5 pints (2.56 litres)

Service B Renew paper element (7). Hydraulic brake master cylinder reservoir

Service ‘S’ Clean cap and surrounding area and after removing cap, top up if necessary to 0.25 inch (6 mm) below the lower edge of the filler neck. Use Castrol Girling Brake Fluid. Distributor

Service B Remove distributor secure the rotor. Put a hole marked ‘oil’and a weight pivots. A smear put on the cam surfaces.

cap and remove the two screws that few drops of Castrol GTX through the drop on each end of the two advance of petroleum jelly (vaseline) should be Do not over lubricate.

Front suspension arm ball joints Service B Grease two nipples each side, top and bottom with Castrol MS3 Grease.

(4 and 10)

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Chapter 1 Engine Contents

General description , Major operations with engine it inn place aes) Major operations with engine removed ... ... ... A Methods of engine removal Engine - removal with gearbox Engine - removal less gearbox SohP inns ccaath Dismantling the engine - general ... 2... 00. cee ee Engine ancillaries - removal as Engine mountings - removal and replacement _ Oil filter and adaptor - removal and replacement

(| 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Pistons, connecting rods and bearings - removal... ... Pistons, piston rings and cylinder bores - inspection and renovation ... ... .. Crankshaft - mea a jaepetion: Main and big end bearing shells - inspection aad ‘ehewal Lubrication system - general description ... ... ... 2... Engine reassembly- general.. ree Pe Pistons and connecting rods - aoa Sere in cevlingers Crankshaft and seals - replacement... ss ees Connecting rods (big ends) - refitting to brani cnate

22

Bellhousing and cover plate - removal and replacement ...

11

Sump - replacement

31

Flywheel - removal, inspection and renovation

12

Flywheel - replacement

Sestlces

a2

fee)

Valves and springs - reassembly #6 Sameer’ peade Se es Cylinder head - replacement nS Camshaft, camshaft housing and taopets -acasemnbiyae

33 34 35

Camshaft housing assembly - replacement

36

Auxiliary shaft - replacement Oil pump - replacement ... ... ... Drive belt replacement and valve Sane

6y7/ 38 39

ae oe

Seek ee

eee ee

athe soeeae cee cee eee

Poder ...

lees

... ...

Drive belt for camshaft and auxiliary shaft - removal ne Crankshaft pulley, auxiliary shaft pulley and camshaft pulley - removal and replacement : ES

14

Camshaft housing, camshaft and tappets - iatnoval ae

inspection : = Inlet and exhaust mentale: - ed ae replacement.. Cylinder head, valves and spring - removal, inspection ane

15 16

renovation She BAS on Oil pump - removal ae ee ats a as Auxiliary shaft - removal, inspection and ene sion Sump - removal a 5 Oil suction pipe and strainer - Peo aa Se eanede

17 18 19 20 21

Aaa eee Be ees Valve tappet clearances - adjustment ... ... ... 2. ee eee Engine final reassembly after major overhaul ... ... ... Engine - replacement in car ... ... ... i Engine- initial start up after overhaul ap ea repair Fault diagnosis

Specifications

Type

4 cylinder in line 45° inclined, ohc

Capacity

1800 2300

1759 cc (107.4 cu in) 2279 cc (139.0 cu in)

Bore:

1300 2300

85.73 mm (3.375 in) 97.54 mm (3.84 in)

Stroke

76.2 mm (3.0 in)

[PIT pete ele Gis

os

dds bee

ate

eedesed

eu) argue neon CaS meniesens

eae area eancen

1

eal pees

ce, Gee ee as

8.5241

Compression ratio:

LG A(Staricacd)

Matias 2.0 tOeEe

Neceedene cds ad

LC Compression pressure (HOT) - minimum:

HC PGWase

cet ek. ceece 2

max cylinder variation...

Oil pressure (HOT) ... ce. cee cee cee nee cen cee cee eee tee eee ane tee eee

Camshaft: Journal diameter:

No 1 (front) No 2 No 3

3

4

2

eo ml

125 Ib/sq in (8.76 kg/sq cm) 110 Ib/sq in (7.7 kg/sq cm) 20 Ib/sq in (1.41 kg/sq cm)

45 - 55 Ib/sq in (3.17 - 3.87 kg/sq cm) at 3000 rpm

2.3735 - 2.3740 in 2.3575 - 2.3580 in 2.3425 - 2.3430 in

(60.28 - 60.30 mm) (59.88 - 58.90 mm) (59.50 - 59.52 mm)

23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

40 41 42 43 44

12

Chapter 1/Engine

ee

eee

2.3265 - 2.3270 in 2.0605 - 2.0610 in

(59.09 - 59.11

Clearance in housing End-float Thrust washer Pnieknese!

0.0010 - 0.0025 in 0.001 - 0.007 in 0.157 - 0.160 in

(0.03 - 0.06 mm)

Permissible dimension -cam pesteto Wha: 1800 Inlet Exhaust

1.877 in (47.93 mm) minimum 1.868 in (47.45 mm) minimum

No 4 Nod

mm)

(52.33 - 52.35 mm)

(0.02 - 0.18 mm) (3.99 - 4.06 mm)

2300

1.902 in (48.31 mm) minimum 1.893 in (48.08 mm) minimum

Inlet Exhaust

Auxiliary shaft: Front journal diameter Rear journal diameter Bearing clearance Thrust washer thickness Endifloaticc, 235. 0s) sontecetacteeeealest

bctaieads

Aeveccee

aes

ae

erent

1.749 - 1.750 1.686 - 1.687 0.001 - 0.003 0.116 - 0.118 0.002 - 0.008

in in in in in

(44.42 - 44.44 mm) (42.82 - 42.84 mm)

(0.02 - 0.08 mm) (2.95 - 3.00 mm)

(0.05 - 0.20 mm)

Cylinder block: Cylinder bore diameter - nominal standard

3.375 in 3.84 in Top face distortion - max permissible Longituclinally cicc vcs, eesucsest tse aes Transversely

econ

eseiee

«eee

noes

aseste oral

nee»

Permissible depth of block after refacing (Top face to centre of main bearing housing)

Piston rings: Number per, pistOniics cc2 ccc) ies Ring gap in cylinder bore:

ess’ cos

ccs

yeas) seou

0.005 in (0.13 mm) 0.003 in (0.08 mm)

8.567 in

Cylinder liners - 1800: Cylinder bore diameter for liner fitment

Vesertneae

eseitsae)

eas

ney

cies

(85.73 mm) (97.54 mm)

(217.6 mm)

3.553 - 3.554 in

(90.26 - 90.27 mm)

0.014 - 0.025 in 0.007 - 0.024 in

(0.36 - 0.63 mm)

1800 ATO MUIINGS cccswecebettee

sue)

Ne

wmea

mess saw! Gov:

ice:

veeeceud.

Ease

asd

Centre ring

(0.19 - 0.60 mm)

2300 GO PMGLIVG Gor

anes

Mees necoulioce)

Centre ring

Iesap atom

joote- cas. vee

hosel

Suan

venice

coor.

ake

-

0.015 - 0.026 in 0.009 - 0.026 in

(0.24 - 0.65 mm)

0.077 - 0.078 in

(1.95 - 1.98 mm)

0.0015 - 0.0035 in 0.001 - 0.003 in

(0.04 - 0.09 mm)

(0.37 - 0.65 mm)

Thickness (top to Bottom ecm Top and centre rings Clearance in piston groove: BO PUTING) acurce Mercer asanpiaetevesateess® Centre ring Pistons: TAYOh aasssce cee er Clearance in rincen bored

ose

ccce cosh seclulews,,

eens eotlieecs>

ee

as

(0.03 - 0.08 mm)

Aluminium alloy solid skirt

0.0015 - 0.0020 in

(0.04 - 0.05 mm)

Piston pins:

Clearancevin) pistommoossesratnZO8iGincr Connecting rods: Bearing housing bore Endifloationicranipini

ce

scen-cc.

a teed ¥en comes

smecs meets:

as

meeee yun

0.0003 - 0.0005 in (0.008 - 0.013 mm)

2.1460 - 2.1465 in 0.008 - 0.014 in

54.51

- 54.52 mm)

(0.20 - 0.36 mm)

Crankshaft and bearings: Type re Crankpin tiameter - ianceral

Crankpin clearance in bearing Crankpin fillet radius Crank throw.. 5 Main journal Miametet -Panards No 1,2, 3, 4journals ...

No 5 (rear) journal

5 bearing, cast iron - copper/lead shells 1.9975 - 1.9985 in (50.75 - 50.76 mm) 0.0010 - 0.0032 in (0.03 - 0.08 mm)

0.125 in (3.18 mm) 1.497 - 1.502 in

(38.02 - 38.15 mm)

2.4995 - 2.5005 in 2.5000 - 2.5005 in

(63.49 - 63.51 mm) (63.50 - 63.51 mm)

ee

Chapter 1/Engine

ee

13

Main journal clearance in bearing:

No 1, 2, 3, 4journals

No 5 (rear) journal Main journal fillet radius

... .

0.0008 - 0.0028 in 0.0008 - 0.0025 in 0.125 in 0.002 - 0.010 in 0.0015 in 2.6655 - 2.6660 in

...

Crankshaft end float Permissible crankshaft run-out

.. .

Main bearing housing bores Rear main journal - required length: 0.010 in undersize 0.020 in undersize 0.040 in undersize Rear main bearing width: Standard ... ... ... 1. 0.010 in undersize 0.020 in undersize

0.040 in

undersize

Valves and valve seats: Valve seat angle Valve seat width: Inlet Exhaust .. 7 ee ae Stem diameter - standard: Inlet j Exhaust ... ne apes

(0.02 (0.02 (3.18 (0.05

- 0.07 mm) - 0.06 mm) mm) - 0.25 mm)

(0.04 mm) max. (67.70 - 67.72 mm)

1.346 - 1.350 in 1.351 - 1.355 in 1.356 - 1.360 in

(34.19 - 34.29 mm) (34.32 - 34.42 mm) (34.44 - 34.54 mm)

1.337 1.342 1.347 1.352

(33.96 (34.09 (34.21 (34.34

-

1.339 1.344 1.349 1.354

in in in in

-

34.01 34.14 34.26 34.39

mm) mm) mm) mm)

450 0.035 - 0.060 in 0.055 - 0.085 in

(0.89 - 1.52 mm) (1.40 - 2.16 mm)

0.3410 - 0.3417 in 0.3403 - 0.3410 in

(8.66 - 8.68 mm) (8.64 - 8.66 mm)

0.0010 - 0.0027 in 0.0017 - 0.0034 in 440

(0.03 - 0.07 mm) (0.04 - 0.09 mm)

Valve head thickness: Inlet eens

0.025 in

Exhaust ... ... Assembled length of valve in head

0.035 in 1.13 in

(0.6 mm) minimum (0.9 mm) minimum

Stem clearance in guide: Inlet Exhaust

Seat angle

...

snags ...

on...

wee

cee wee

... . .

...

Valve springs: Free length - nominal: Innefess.mess 42: OUTS ercisvisse Spring force: inneriatO.83 dnd 21min) yest 2s: aeveereseyries Sesto Outer at 1.00 in (25.5 mm) Valve tappets: Diameter ... .. Clearance in guide

Meee viace

(28.5 mm) maximum

1.40 in

(35.5 mm)

1.64 in

(41.5 mm)

72 Ib (32.4 kg) 139 Ib (62.55 kg) 1.4365 - 1.437 in 0.0010 - 0.0015 in

(36.49 - 36.57 mm) (0.03 - 0.04 mm)

Valve clearance - hot: Inlet Exhaust

0.007 - 0.010 in 0.015 - 0.018 in

(0.18 - 0.25 mm)

Valve timing: Inlet valve maximum opening point

106° after TDC

Ae ..

cto ... ... ...

Capacities: DiViGnOine air-ceecoi

aceueceliecen Refill with new oil filter ... Refill

8.5 pints (4.8 litres) 8.0 pints (4.6 litres) 7.5 pints (4.3 litres)

«stuns ... .

Ib ft 47

Torque wrench settings: Connecting rod cap bolts*

82

Main bearing cap bolts* Flywheel and flex plate bolts...

... ...

48

Cylinder head bolts

82

Camshaft housing bolts

25

Clutch to flywheel bolts...

14 42

Torque converter to flex plate bolts *Oiled threads

(0.38 - 0.46 mm)

14 Chapter 1/Engine a ee ae ee Se 1 General description a a ee The

ee

engine fitted to models covered by this manual

is avail-

able in-two capacities, 1759cc (1800) and 2279cc (2300). They are basically identical with the exception of the cylinder bore which has been increased on the larger capacity version. It is of the four cylinder, water cooled, overhead camshaft

design and is mounted with the clutch and gearbox within the engine compartment on flexible mountings. The cylinder block and crankcase are cast together and have integral cylinder liners each one being surrounded by the water jacket. One unusual feature is that when fitted the cylinder axis is inclined to the left at an angle of 45°. The solid skirt pistons are made from aluminium alloy and have two compression rings and one steel rail type compression/oil control ring fitted, all

above

the gudgeon

pin. The connecting rod is attached by this

piston pin which is a running fit with piston bosses and shrunk into the little end. The crankshaft is of cast iron and runs in five renewable copper/lead steel backed shells. End float control is at the

rear main bearing (no. 5). The I section steel forged connecting rods are fitted to the crankshaft by means of renewable copper lead steel backed shells at the big end. No bush is used in the connecting rod little end as

the gudgeon pin is a shrink fit to the connecting rod. The cast iron camshaft is positioned on the top of the cylinder head and is driven from the crankshaft by a special internally toothed reinforced rubber belt. The camshaft rotates

in five bearings which are machined in the aluminium camshaft housing. End float is controlled by a thrust washer located between the rear face of the rear bearing and the retaining washer which is bolted to the end of the camshaft. Also driven by the rubber toothed drive belt is the auxiliary shaft and this runs in two steel backed white metal bearings positioned in a housing within the cylinder block. The fuel pump operates from this shaft as does the distributor and oil pump. End float of the auxiliary shaft is taken by a thrust washer which is located in a groove at the front of its main journal. The drive belt is tensioned by a smooth siirface jockey pulley which runs on double row type ball bearings. The cross flow type cast iron cylinder head is mounted on the cylinder block and carries the aluminium camshaft housing and valve assemblies. The overhead valves are retained in position with split type cotters which are located in the tapered bore of the valve spring retaining cap and double coil type valve springs. The valve guides are integral with the cylinder head. Because of the overhead mounted camshaft the valves are actuated directly by means of ‘bracket-type’ tappets which move in bores in the camshaft housing. Each tappet incorporates an angled wedge type adjusting screw. The oil pump is driven via the distributor from the auxiliary shaft and may be of either the rotor or vane type. It has a special built in pressure relief valve which opens when the oil pressure exceeds normal operating pressure. The oil filter is of the disposable cartridge type and is mounted on the outside, right hand side of the cylinder block. Further details of the engine lubrication system will be found in Section 26. The majority of nuts, bolts and screws ised on the engine are to Unified standard specifications so before any work is started make sure that a selection of suitable spanners and sockets is available.

6

EE

Removal

of flywheel

without availability

(not recommended

of raised ramps or a pit). 7 8

Removal of crankshaft front oil seal. Removal of pistons and connecting rods. - not recommended.

eee ee 3 Major operations with engine removed ee ee SS SS SS The following major operations must be carried out with the engine out of the car and on a bench or floor. 1 Removal and replacement of the main bearings. 2 Removal and replacement of the crankshaft.

a a 4 Methods of engine removal ea SS

eee

There are two methods of engine removal: complete with clutch and gearbox or without the gearbox. Both methods are described. It is easier if a hydraulic trolley jack is used in conjunction with two axle stands, so that the car can be raised sufficiently to allow easy access underneath the car. Overhead lifting tackle will be necessary in both cases.

NOTE

Cars fitted with automatic transmission necessitating

engine and transmission removal should have the transmission removed FIRST as described in Chapter 6. The transmission, even on its own, is very heavy. 5

Engine - removal with gearbox

1 The complete unit can be removed easily in about four hours. It is essential to have a good hoist, and two strong axle stands if an inspection pit is not available. Engine removal will be much easier if there is someone to assist especially during the later

stages. 2 With few exceptions, it is simplest to lift out the engine with all

ancillaries

(alternator,

distributor,

carburettor,

exhaust

manifold) still attached. 3 Before beginning work it is worthwhile to get all the accumulated dirt cleaned off the engine unit at a garage which is equipped with steam or high pressure air and water cleaning equipment. It helps to make the job quicker, easier and of course much cleaner. 4 Detach the windscreen washer feed pipe from the bonnet jet

connection (photo). 5 Usinga pencil or scriber mark the outline of the bonnet hinge On either side to act as a datum for refitting. An assistant should now

take

the

bonnet

stay.

Undo

and

remove

the four

bolts,

spring and plain washers. Carefully lift the bonnet up and then over the front of the car, Store in a safe place where it will not be scratched, (photo). Push down hinges to stop any accidents. 6 Undo and remove the negative and then the positive battery terminal clamp bolts. Detach the terminal connectors (photo). 7 Undo and remove the wing nuts securing the battery clamp. Lift away the clamp and then the battery (photo). 8 Working under the car, place a container of 10 pints (6 litres)

under the sump drain plug and remove the sump plug. When the oil has finished draining out refit the plug. 9 Using a scriber or file mark the propeller shaft at the rear flange and final drive coupling so that it may be refitted in its

original position (photo) 2

Major operations with engine in place

The following major operations can be carried out to the engine with it in place in the car: Removal and replacement of the camshaft and housing. Removal and replacement of the Removal and replacement of the Removal and replacement of the — OWN Removal of sump (after removal

assembly).

camshaft drive belt. cylinder head. engine mountings. of suspension crossmember

10 Undo and remove the four nuts and bolts that secure the flange to the coupling. Detach the flange from the coupling, draw the propeller shaft rearwards and lower to the ground. Wrap the end of the gearbox extension housing in rag and then slide a polythene bag over the end and tie firmly with a piece of

string or wire (photos) 11 Detach the speedometer

drive cable from the right hand side

of the extension housing by undoing the knurled sleeve nut. Draw the cable from the housing (photo). 12 Detach the gear change lever by releasing the spring clip on

the end of the clevis pin. Push the clevis pin forwards. Note the

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FIG.4.3. DISTRIBUTOR

ROTOR—CONTACT SPRING HEIGHT

A = 1.38 - 1.44 inch (35.0 - 37.0 mm)

~

—

ES

So rmnie

H.28

24

FIG.4.1. COMPONENT Distributor cap

Rotor Rotor securing screw Lock washer Mainshaft Bob weights Bob weight spring Cam assembly Retainer clip WMNAMAWY~ 10 Contact points 77 Insulator clip: 712 Contacts locking screw 73 Condenser bracket 14 Condenser fixing screw 15 LT lead and grommet 16 Earth lead 17 Contact breaker plate 718 Felt washer

PARTS OF DISTRIBUTOR 719 20 21 22 23 24 25 26

Vacuum advance unit Screw Base Cap clip Spring pin Drive gear Gear retaining pin Suction pipe

27 Gasket (early fitment only) 28 29 30 37 32 33 34 35

Securing screw Coil and bracket Mounting screw Plain washer Lockwasher HT lead Seal Seal

FIG.4.4. CONTACT BREAKER

POINTS—ROTOR

1 Points assembly fixing screw 2 Points assembly fixing screw 3 Screwdriver adjustment slot

REMOVED

Chapter 4/Ignition system i

80

7 It is necessary to remove completely the built up deposits, but not necessary to rub the pitted point right down to the stage where all the pitting has disappeared, although obviously if this is done it will prolong the time before the operation of refacing the points has to be repeated. 8 Thoroughly clean the points before refitting them. Locate the fixed contact plate over the base of the pivot pin and then

fix the moving contact into position so that the end of the spring fits over the centre boss of the nylon insulator lug ((Fig.4.5) . Refit the two fixing screws. 9 Press in the condenser and coil lead tags to the nylon insulator lug. The contact breaker points gap should now be reset as described in Section 3. 10 Refit the rotor and finally the distributor cap.

be noted: a) If the shaft bushes are worn a complete base assembly must be obtained as bushes are not supplied separately by Vauxhall. b) With the exception of the rotor and contact breaker points other parts may not be readily obtainable. It is very important to be quite sure of the type of distributor fitted before changing weights, springs or mainshaft cam. The specifications at the beginning of this chapter indicate the types available. The distributor for use on the 1759cc engine can be identified by a green tag on the low tension wire, whilst that for use on the 2279cc engine is marked with a blue plastic tape tag. be more it may is seriously worn c) If the distributor satisfactory in the long run to change the whole unit for a new

one. 2 Begin

dismantling

by removing

the’ rotor,

contact

breaker

points and condenser as previously described in Sections 4and 5.

5

Condenser - removal, testing and replacement

1 The purpose of the condenser (sometimes known as a Capacitor) is to ensure that when the contact breaker points open there is no arcing across them which would cause rapid

deterioration of the points and inefficient operation of the ignition system. 2 The condenser is fitted in parallel with the contact breaker points. If it develops a short circuit is will cause complete ignition system failure as the points will be prevented from interrupting the low tension circuit.

3 If the engine becomes difficult to start or begins to misfire whilst running and the contact breaker points show signs of excessive burning, then the condition of the condenser must be suspect. A further test can be made by separating the points by hand with the ignition switched on. If this is accompanied by a bright spark at the contact breaker points it is indicative that the

condenser has failed. 4 Without special test equipment the only sure way to diagnose condenser trouble is to replace a suspected unit with a new one and note if there is any improvement. 5 To remove the condenser from the distributor, first remove the rotor arm as described in Section 2. Carefully pull out the condenser head lip from the nylon insulator where it fits behind the contact point spring and ignition coil LT wire terminal.

6

Undo

and remove

the condenser mounting bracket securing

screw, withdraw the black earth lead terminal and then lift away the condenser. 7 Refitting the condenser is the reverse sequence to removal. Take particular care that the condenser wire cannot short circuit against any portion of the contact breaker point assembly.

3 Carefully remove the circlip at the top end of the mainshaft and detach the contact breaker points mounting plate from the base assembly (Fig.4.6) . 4 Using a suitable diameter parallel pin punch carefully tap out the spring pin that secures the drive gear to the mainshaft

({Fig.4.7) . 5

(1759cc engine) or 064 (2279cc engine) stamped on the plate. Cams are identified by the number 27 (1759cc engine) or 25 (2279cc engine) stamped on the underside of the cam base plate. Advance weights used are all stamped with the number 53. The advance weight springs are the same for both distributors and are identified by blue and black paint marks at the end of the spring

(Fig.4.8 ). 6 When reassembling the distributor make sure the felt oil retainer engages correctly in the slot in the main base before replacing the contact breaker plate. Soak the felt in Castrol GTX

before refitting (Fig.4.9 ). 7 If a new drive shaft is to be fitted the gear pin hole will need to be drilled using a 0.125 in (3.175 mm) diameter drill. It should be arranged so that the angle between the centre line of any gear tooth and the centre line of the drive slot is 70° as shown in Fig.4.10. Also ensure that there is an end float of 0.085 - 0.175 in (2.16 - 4.44 mm). 8 Always smear a little Castrol LM Grease on the link end of the vacuum control arm before reconnecting. Also lubricate the distributor drive gear with a little graphite grease.

8 6

Distributor - removal and replacement

1 To remove the distributor, first mark the HT leads so that they may be refitted to the correct spark plugs upon replacement. Detach the leads from the spark plugs. 2 Pull off the plastic cover and release the HT lead from the centre of the ignition coil by pulling sharply. 3 Pull off the vacuum hose from the vacuum unit on the side of the distributor. 4 Detach the low tension wire from the ignition coil. 5 It is not possible to remove and replace the distributor without having to reset the ignition timing. Removal and

replacement is therefore dealt with in Section 8. ‘Ignition timing’ 6 The distributor is held in place by three bolts and plain washers through slotted holes in the base flange. When these bolts have been removed the distributor can be lifted straight Out.

7 Replacement of the distributor must follow the sequence as described in Section 8.

If items are to he replaced take care to note the numbers

stamped on them which identify the type for each engine. Additionally the mainshaft may be identified by the number 081

Ignition timing

1 The procedure for setting the ignition timing is described from the point of installing the distributor. If the distributor has not been removed and the timing is known to be in need only of an adjustment, then the procedure leading up to this stage can be ignored. Only the final setting of the opening of the points gap is necessary. 2 With the distributor removed rotate the crankshaft until No. 1 piston is on the compression stroke (removal of No. 1 spark plug and a thumb over the spark plug hole will ensure compression is felt). Continue to rotate the crankshaft until the 9° BTDC ‘mark on the engine front cover,is aligned with the

crankshaft pulley mark. (Fig.4.11). 3 Using a pair of pointed pliers move the oil pump the position shown in Fig.4.12

4 Prepare the mating faces of the distributor body flange and the oil pump flange by cleaning them thoroughly and applyinga thin coat of Hylomar SQ 32/M jointing compound to the oil pump flange. 5 Hold the distributor over the installation position with the vacuum

7

Distributor - dismantling and reassembly

1

Before a distributor is dismantled the following points should

tongue to

unit facing towards the fuel pump and the rotor contact

at the 11 distributor 6 Lower that as the

o'clock position as seen when looking down on the from the side of the engine (see Fig.4.13) the distributor into position and it should be noted gear helix engages the rotor moves round clockwise to

81

FIG.4.5. CORRECT ASSEMBLY ORDER OF CONTACT BREAKER POINTS & CONDENSER LEADS Base plate lug !nsulator/connector Whos Condenser wire

4 5

LT wire from ignition coil Contact breaker point spring

Fig.4.6. Location of circlip retaining contact breaker points mounting plate

aa

ie,

Fig.4.7. Use of parallel pin punch to drift out skew gear spring pin

Fig.4.9. Refitting felt lubricator to slotted base

Fig.4.8. Distributor component

identification numbers

FIG.4.10. DISTRIBUTOR MAINSHAFT DRIVE GEAR PINNED POSITION A

End float 0.085-0.175 in (2.16- 4.44 mm)

B Pin position to slot - 70

Chapter 4/Ignition system 82 EEE the 12 o'clock position as shown in Fig.4.14 . The mounting bolt holes should now be in the centre of the flange slots. 7 \f an error has been made withdraw the distributor

and repeat the procedure. Should the distributor body not go right down easily it is an indication that the oil pump drive shaft is

not correcity aligned. Refer to 8

Fig.4.12.

Replace the three distributor securing bolts and plain washers

but do not fully tighten yet. 9 Refer to Section 3, paragraph 6 onwards and reset the contact breaker points to the correct gap. 10 Carefully turn the distributor anti clockwise until the contact breaker points are closed. Now turn the distributor body clockwise until the contact breaker points are just about to open. This can be accurately gauged if a 12 volt, 6 watt bulb is connected in parallel with the contact breaker points. Switch on the ignition and when the points open the bulb will light. 11 Tighten the three distributor securing bolts. 12 If a stroboscopic light is used for a final static ignition setting, remove the lead from No. 1 spark plug and connect up

FIG.4.11. IGNITION TIMING MARKS 1

2

Notch in crankshaft pulley

9? mark on drive belt cover

the strobe light, one wire to the spark plug and the other to the plug lead. With the engine idling as slowly as possible shine the light on to the engine front cover mark and it will be noted that the crankshaft

pulley mark

should appear stationary opposite to

the front cover 9° mark. 13 If the engine speed is increased, then the effect of the vacuum and centrifugal advance controls can be seen and in fact, measured to some extent, in so far as the distance between the two crankcase timing markers represent 9° of crankshaft revolution.

9

Spark plugs and leads

1 The correct functioning of the spark plugs is vital for the correct running and efficient-operation of the engine. The spark plugs fitted as standard are as listed in the specifications at the beginning of this chapter. 2 At intervals of 3,000 miles (4,800 Km) the spark plugs must be removed, examined and cleaned. If worn excessively they must be renewed. This cleaning frequency may seem high to some Owners but experience has shown that it is well worth the

short time involved. The condition of the spark plug will also tell

Fig.4.12. Position of oil pump tongue

much about the overall condition of the engine. 3 If the insulator nose of the spark plug is clean and white, with no deposits, this is indicative of a weak mixture, or too hot a plug. (A hot plug transfers heat away from the electrode slowly -a cold plug transfers it away quickly). 4 I\f the tip and insulator nose is covered with sooty black deposits, then this is indicative that the mixture is too rich.

Should the plug be black and oily, then it is likely that the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture being rich. 5 If the insulator, nose is covered with a light tan to greyish brown deposit, then the mixture is correct and it is likely that the engine is in good condition. ; 6 If there are any traces of long brown tapering stains on the outside of the white portion of the spark plug, then the plug will have to be renewed, as this shows that there is a faulty joint between the plug body and the insulator, and pressure is being allowed to leak past. 7 Spark plugs should be cleaned by a sand blasting machine, which will free them from carbon more thoroughly than cleaning by hand. The machine will also test the condition of the spark plugs under pressure conditions. Any plug that fails to spark at the recommended pressure should be discarded. 8 The spark plug gap is of considerable importance, as, if it is too large, or too small the size of the spark and its efficiency will be seriously impaired. The spark plug gap should be set to:

Normal running Running in Fig.4.13. Rotor in the 11 o'clock position ready for refitting distributor

0.030 inch (0.75 mm) 0.026 inch (0.65 mm)

9 To reset the gap, measure the gap with a feeler gauge and then using a special spark plug resetting tool bend the outer plug

pee

Measuring plug gap. A feeler gauge of the correct size (see

Adjusting plug gap. The plug gap is adjusted by bending the

ignition system specifications) should have a slight ‘drag’ when slid between the electrodes. Adjust gap if necessary

earth electrode inwards, or outwards, as necessary until the correct clearance is obtained. Note the use of the correct tool

Normal. Grey-brown deposits, lightly coated core nose. Gap

Carbon fouling. Dry, black, sooty deposits. Will cause weak spark and eventually misfire. Fault: over-rich fuel mixture.

increasing by around 0.001 in (0.025 mm) per 1000 miles (1600 km). Plugs ideally suited to engine, and engine in good condition

Check: carburettor mixture settings, float level and jet sizes; choke operation and cleanliness of air filter. Plugs can be re-

used after cleaning

=

a

°

VES:

Oil fouling. Wet, oily deposits. Will cause weak spark and eventually misfire. Fault: worn bores/piston rings or valve

guides; sometimes occurs (temporarily) during running-in period. Plugs can be re-used after thorough cleaning

ye

Overheating. Electrodes have glazed appearance, core nose very white — few deposits. Fault: plug overheating. Check: plug value, ignition timing, fuel octane rating (too low) and fuel mixture (too weak). Discard plugs and cure fault immediately

&

Electrode damage. Electrodes burned away; core nose has burned, glazed appearance. Fault: pre-ignition. Check: as for ‘Overheating’ but may be more severe. Discard plugs and remedy fault before piston or valve damage occurs

Split core nose (may appear initially as a crack). Damage is self-evident, but cracks will only show after cleaning. Fault: preignition or wrong gap-setting technique. Check: ignition timing, cooling system, fuel octane rating (too low) and fuel mixture (too weak). Discard plugs, rectify fault immediately

g

Chapter 4/Ignition system

electrode until the correct gap is must not be bent as it will crack failure. 10 When refitting the spark plugs contact seats of the plugs and

obtained. The centre electrode the insulation resulting in plug it is important that the tapered cylinder head are clean and

undamaged.

11 The spark plugs must not be overtightened. As they are a different size from most other common spark plugs (5/8 AF) it is worthwhile obtaining the correct size socket and extension bar to fit a torque wrench. Always tighten the spark plugs to a

torque wrench setting of 15 Ib ft (2.07 Kg m). 12 The plug leads require no routine maintenance other than being kept clean and wiped over regularly. At intervals of 6,000 miles (9660 Km) thoroughly inspect the leds for signs of deterioration or loose connections. Rectify as necessary.

10 Ignition system - fault symptoms

There are two main symptoms indicating ignition faults. Either the engine will not start or fire, or the engine is difficult to start and misfires. If it is a regular misfire i.e. the engine is only running on two or three cylinders, the fault is almost sure to be in the secondary or high tension circuit. If the misfiring is intermittent, the fault could be in either the high or low tension circuits. If the engine stops suddenly, or will not start at all, it is likely that the fault is in the low tension circuit. Loss of power and overheating apart from faulty carburation settings, are normally due to faults in the distributor, or incorrect ignition timing.

reset them as described in Section 4. 6 If there are no sparks from the end of the lead from the ignition coil, then check the connections of the lead to the coil and distributor cap, and if they are in order, check out the low tension circuit starting with the battery. 7 Switch on the ignition and turn the crankshaft contact breaker points have fully opened. They will contact breaker points have fully opened. Then with voltmeter or a bulb and two lengths of wire

so that the either be a either a 20v check that open current is flowing along the low tension wire to the ignition

coil terminal SW or + by putting the test wire ends on the aforementioned terminal and earth. No reading indicates a break in the supply from the ignition switch. Check the connections at the switch to see if any are loose. Refit them. A reading shows a faulty coil or condenser or broken lead between the coil and distributor. 8 Detach the condenser wire from the points assembly and with the points open, test between the moving point and earth. If there now isa reading, then the fault is in the condenser. Fit a new one as described in Section 5. 9 With no reading from the moving contact breaker point to

earth, take a reading between earth and the CB or - terminal of the coil. A reading here shows a broken wire which will need to be replaced between the coil and distributor. No reading confirms that the coil has failed and must be renewed. Remember to refit the condenser wire to the points assembly. For these tests it is sufficient to separate the points with a piece of dry paper while testing with the points open. 10 Models covered by this manual are fitted with a device which boosts the output from the ignition coil when the starter motor is operated. (When the starter motor is operated the battery

voltage tends to drop due to the load placed on, it). Quite simply, 11 Fault diagnosis - engine fails to start 1 If the engine fails to start and it was running normally when it was last used, first check that there is fuel in the petrol tank. If the engine turns over normally on the starter motor and the battery is evidently well charged, then the fault may be in either the high or low tension circuits. First check the HT circuit. NOTE. If the battery is known to be fully charged, the ignition light comes on, and the starter motor fails to turn the engine, CHECK THE TIGHTNESS OF THE LEADS ON THE BATTERY TERMINALS and also the secureness of the earth lead to its CONNECTION TO THE BODY. It is quite common for the leads to have worked loose, even if they look and feel relatively secure. If one of the battery terminal pasts gets very hot when trying to operate the starter motor this is a sure indication of a faulty connection to that terminal. 2 One of the commonest reasons for bad starting is wet or damp spark plug leads and distributor. Remove the distributor cap. If condensation is visible internally, dry the cap with a rag and also wipe over the leads. Replace the cap. Also wipe the top of the ignition coil.

3 If the engine still fails to start, check that current is reaching the plugs by disconnecting each plug lead in turn at the spark plug end, and holding the end of the cable about 3/16 inch (4.8 mm)

away

from

the

cylinder

block.

Spin

the engine

on

the

starter motor.

4

Sparking between the end of the cable and the cylinder block

should be fairly strong with a regular blue spark. Hold the lead

the coil is rated for a continuous 6 volt supply. As the vehicle system is 12 volts a resistor is fitted into the LT supply to the coil so that under normal operating conditions the coil only receives a 6 volt supply. However, when the starter is operated the system voltage drops as previously described. In addition to

the normal LT feed to the coil therefore an additional feed is taken from the starter solenoid switch direct to the coil. This feed only operates when the starter solenoid terminals are closed i.e. when the starter is turning. Consequently for a brief time when the voltage drops from 12 to about 8 volts this is fed direct to the 6 volt coil providing a temporary starting voltage boost. Certain checks are necessary to ensure that: a) The starter feed is functioning properly - otherwise only about 2 volts would reach the coil on starting. b) The resistor is in good order - otherwise either 12 or O volts may reach the coil. The tests detailed below are clarified by reference to the wiring connections given in Fig.4.15 and

Fig.4.16 A1 To check the current supply to the coil through the resistor wire, disconnect the white/yellow resistor wire and connect it to

earth via a voltmeter. With the contact breaker points closed and the ignition switched on the reading should be at least 8 volts. If not then there is a fault in the wire or the starter solenoid switch, (Fig. 4.15A). A2 With the white/yellow resistor wire reconnected, and the voltmeter connected as far as the previous test, there should be a reading of: approximately 5 volts with the ignition switched on

with rubber or plastic gloves to avoid electric shocks. If current

and the points closed. (Fig. 4.15B).

is reaching the spark plugs, then remove them and clean. Regap them to the specified clearance and see specifications. The

B1 To check the primary (LT) coil winding, contact breaker points and condenser, connect the voltmeter to the CB or -

engine should now start.

5 If there is no spark at the plug leads take off the HT lead from the centre of the distributor cap and hold it to the cylinder block as before. Spin the engine as before, when a rapid succession of blue sparks between the end of the lead and the block indicate that the ignition coil is in order, and that the distributor cap is cracked, the rotor faulty, or the carbon brush in the top of the distributor cap is not making good contact with the spring on the rotor. Possibly the contact breaker points are burnt, pitted or dirty. If the points are in bad shape, clean and

terminal (white/black wire) of the ccil leaving both coil wires connected. Switch on the ignition with the contact breaker Points open. The voltage should be approximately 12 volts (ie battery voltage). If the reading is very low or zero then there is a fault in the coil primary winding or a short circuit at the contact breaker points or condenser (Fig. 4.16). B2 With the same connections, close the contact breaker points. With the ignition still on the reading should be between O and 0.2 volts. Should the reading be greater then the contact breaker Points are dirty,

Chapter 4/Ignition system

Fig 4.15. Resistor cable test 12 Fault diagnosis - engine misfires 1 If the engine misfires regularly, run it at a fast idling speed and short out each of the spark plugs in turn by placing a screwdriver across from the plug terminal to the cylinder. Ensure that the screwdriver has a clean and dry wooden or plastic insulated handle. 2 No difference in engine running will be noticed when the plug in the defective cylinder is short circuited. Short circuiting the working plugs will accentuate the misfire. 3 Remove the plug lead from the end of the defective plug and hold it about 3/16 inch (4.8 mm) from the cylinder block. Restart the engine. If the sparking is fairly strong and regular the fault must lie in the spark plug. 4 The spark plug may be loose, the insulation may be cracked or the points may have burnt away giving too wide a gap for the spark to jump when under pressure conditions. Worse still, one of the points may have broken off. Either renew the plug, or clean it, reset the gap and then test it. 5 f there is no spark at the end of the plug lead, or if it is weak

85

Fig.4.16. LT circuit test connections and intermittent, check the ignition lead from the distributor to the plug. If the insulation has deteriorated renew the lead. Check the connections at the distributor cap. 6 If there is still no spark, examine the distributor cap carefully for tracking. This can be recognised by a very thin black line running between two or more electrodes, or between an electrode and some other part of the distributor. These lines are paths which now conduct electricity across the cap thus letting it

run to earth. Also check the top of the coil for the same symptoms. 7 Apart from the ignition timing being incorrect, other causes of misfiring have already been dealt with under the section dealing with failure of the engine to start. 8 If the ignition timing is too far retarded, it should be noted that the engine will tend to overheat, and there will be quite a noticeable

drop in power.

If the engine

is overheating and the

power is down, and the ignition timing is correct then the carburettor should be checked, as it is likely that this is where the fault lies. See Chapter 3 for further details.

Chapter 5 Clutch and actuating mechanism Contents

General description..

:

Fe

Clutch cable - nerncv el and Peiacement Clutch adjustment ... ...

Clutch pedal and shaft - reifeval and replacement =

=

Clutch assembly - removal and inspection (Borg and Beck)..

Clutch assembly - removal and inspection (Laycock) ... ... Clutch assembly - replacement ... ... ... Clutch actuating lever and thrust release peace! - ei ert

6 7

inspection and replacement..

8

Clutch = OBWN

pilot.bushi=renewallse--aee-o6 eee renee Fault: diagmOSifs.c%ccy dec cae qcsepy soxieecurses epssettee cule

CIRCUIT BREAKER HEATER MOTOR

O

RH. STOP LAMP FILAMENT

Oo

O

LH. STOP LAMP FILAMENT STOP LAMP SWITCH RH.REAR

TURN SIGNAL

FILA.

ALTERNATOR/ REGULATOR RH.FRONT TURN SIGNAL FILA. RU TURN SIGNAL

i

0

pe asta

Eegt

Re

FILA,

LH. FRONT TURN SIGNAL

loz

cna

INDICATOR

L.H. REAR TURN SIGNAL

FILA.

L.H. TURN SIGNAL INDICATOR

ad,

R.H.

FRONT

DOOR

SWITCH

L.H.

FRONT

DOOR

SWITCH

rae p oo TAMEeo O

L.H.

ee INSTRUMENT

0) LAMP ioe £2,

INSTROMENT

L.AMP

PARKING

FILAMENT

R.H. PARKING

FILAMENT

re!

O

Peas

SWITCH

eae kik a

LIGHTING

L.H.

TAIL

HEADLAMP

FILAMENT

NUMBER

PLATE

LAMP

NUMBER

PLATE

LAMP

FLASHER

ee

LH MAIN

BEAM

FILAMENT

EAS

R.H.MAIN

BEAM

FILAMENT

ar]

MAIN

BEAM

)

R.H.

DIP

FILAMENT

L.H.

DIP

FILAMENT

Fees

TAIL GATE SWITCH MODEL 94335 ONLY

— >

=

TAIL

GATE

LAMP

Theoretical Wiring Diagram - Victor de luxe

INDICATION

176

12 VOLT

BATTERY

FUSE

3

O>—


19

D

WINDSHELD WASH SWITCH |

prep}

OL

() WARNING

LAMP

>

—9 =

ors

ast

@ OIL PRESSURE

SWITCH

SS IGNITION

T

4 CYL

|

|

DISTRIBUTOR-

°

1

IGNITION

DISTRIBUTOR-#---¥

6 CYL.

fee =

ile

|\

I|

|

|

! tity

me

ea

me

|

Ms

o---}--4

jt

tj

|

Uo

COIL

CO\

@ TACHOMETER

FUSE 2

a>}

ooon sunones +P}

INTERIOR LAMPS

fas}--—4 VOLTAGE STABILISER

INTERIOR UGHT SWITCH Gate OF COMBINED LIGHT AMEOSTAT

WATER

SWITCH

GAUGE TRUNK

TRUNK LAMP SWITCH ++

RATURE

TEI

FUEL

LAMP

WATER

GAUGE

TANK UT

TEMPERATURE

UNIT

@ MEATER MOTOR

NIGH NOTE HORN

HORN

PUSH

SWITCH = RWD SWITCH

ee

fas)

LOw NOTE HORN

HEATER MOTOR

INSTRUMENT

LAMPS

RMEOSTAT SWITCH

* ~~

:

REAR

&) Ok WARNING LAMP

‘PART OF COM@INED (‘on & RHEOSTAT )

MANDSRAKE SWITCH

REVERSE LAMP WITCH A

REVERSE LAMPS

>

LUMA TION

SIOE LAMPS

PRESSURE DIFFERENTIAL SWITCH

MANDBRAKE /BRAKE FAILURE WARNINO LAMP

e

CLOCK

OlL PRESSURE SWITCH

SWITCH

INSTRUMENT LAMPS

WINDOW OEMST ELEMENT

LW TURN

{

SIGNAL

INDICATOR

LH FRONT TURN SIGNAL | AMP TURN SIGNAL

TuiIRN

ha UME SIGNAL

ir

SWITCH

LH REAR

TAIL LAMP Fil AMEN!

NUMBER PLATE LAMP

TURN

SIGNAL LAMP

AW REAR

TURW SIONAL | AMP

RM FRONT

TURN SIGNAL

| AMP

RH TURN SIGNAL INDICATOR SWITCH

oa ”

(jo

}—

STOP LAMPS

Rwo MEATER

SWITCH LUNINA TION

LIGHTING

FOG LAMP

12 VOLT ALTERNATOR SYSTEM NEGATIVE GROUND

Fig. 13. 126 Theoretical wiring diagram — VX 4/90 (1977 model)

EATER CONTROL KLUM

BATTERY CONDITION METER

Safety first! Professional motor mechanics are trained in safe working procedures. However enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job in hand, do take the time to ensure that your safety is not put at risk. A moment's lack of attention can result in an accident, as can failure to observe certain elementary precautions. There will always be new ways of having accidents, and the following points do not pretend to be a comprehensive list of all dangers; they are intended rather to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safety-conscious approach to all work you carry out on your vehicle.

Essential DOs and DON'Ts DON'T

rely on a single jack when

working

underneath

the vehicle.

Always use reliable additional means of support, such as axle stands, securely placed under a part of the vehicle that you know will not give

way. DON'T attempt to loosen or tighten high-torque nuts (e.g. wheel hub nuts) while the vehicle is on a jack; it may be pulled off. DON'T start the engine without first ascertaining that the transmission is in neutral (or ‘Park’ where applicable) and the parking brake applied. DON'T suddenly remove the filler cap from a hot cooling system — cover it with a cloth and release the pressure gradually first, or you may get scalded by escaping coolant. DON'T attempt to drain oil until you are sure it has cooled sufficiently to avoid scalding you. DON'T grasp any part of the engine, exhaust or catalytic converter without first ascertaining that it is sufficiently cool to avoid burning

you. DON'T DON'T mouth, DON'T below). DON'T straight DON'T

allow brake syphon toxic or allow them inhale dust

fluid or antifreeze to contact vehicle paintwork. liquids such as fuel, brake fluid or antifreeze by to remain on your skin. — it may be injurious to health (see Asbestos

allow any spilt oil or grease to remain on the floor — wipe it up away, before someone slips on it. use ill-fitting spanners or other tools which may slip and cause

injury. DON'T attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability — get assistance.

DON'T rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts. DON'T allow children or animals in or around an unattended vehicle. DO wear eye protection when using power tools such as drill, sander, bench grinder etc, and when working under the vehicle. DO use a barrier cream on your hands prior to undertaking dirty jobs — it will protect your skin from infection as well as making the dirt easier to remove afterwards; but make sure your hands aren't left slippery. DO keep loose clothing (cuffs, tie etc) and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts. DO remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle — especially the electrical system. DO ensure that any lifting tackle used has a safe working load rating adequate for the job. DO keep your work area tidy — it is only too easy to fall over articles left lying around. DO get someone to check periodically that all is well, when working alone on the vehicle. DO carry out work in a logical sequence and check that everything is correctly assembled and tightened afterwards. DO remember that your vehicle's safety affects that of yourself and others. If in doubt on any point, get specialist advice. IF, in spite of following these precautions, you are unfortunate enough to injure yourself, seek medical attention as soon as possible.

Fire Remember at all times that petrol (gasoline) is highly flammable. Never smoke, or have any kind of naked flame around, when working on the vehicle. But the risk does not end there — a spark caused by an electrical short-circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, by careless use of tools, or even by static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite petrol vapour, which in a confined space is highly explosive. Always disconnect the battery earth (ground) terminal before working on any part of the fuel or electrical system, and never risk spilling fuel on to a hot engine or exhaust. It is recommended that a fire extinguisher of a type suitable for fuel and electrical fires is kept handy in the garage dr workplace at all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with water.

Fumes Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconsciousness and even death if inhaled to any extent. Petrol (gasoline) vapour comes into this category, as do the vapours from certain solvents such as trichloroethylene. Any draining or pouring of such volatile. fluids should be done in a well ventilated area. When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions carefully. Never use materials from unmarked containers — they may give off poisonous vapours. Never run the engine of a motor vehicle in an enclosed space such as a garage. Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide which is extremely poisonous; if you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the workplace. If you are fortunate enough to have the use of an inspection pit, never drain or pour petrol, and never run the engine, while the vehicle is standing over it; the fumes, being heavier than air, will concentrate in the pit with possibly lethal results.

The battery Never cause a spark, or allow a naked light, near the vehicle’s battery. It will normally be giving off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive. Always disconnect the battery earth (ground) terminal before working on the fuel or electrical systems. If possible, loosen the filler plugs or cover when charging the battery from an external source. Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery may burst. Take care when topping up and when carrying the battery. The acid electrolyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be allowed to contact the eyes or skin.

,

If you ever need to prepare electrolyte yourself, always add the acid slowly to the water, and never the other way round. Protect against splashes by wearing rubber gloves and goggles. When jump starting a car using a booster battery, for negative earth (ground) vehicles, connect the jump leads in the following sequence: First connect one jump lead between the positive (+) terminals of the two batteries. Then connect the other jump lead first to the negative (—) terminal of the booster battery, and then to a good earthing (ground) point on the vehicle to be started, at least 18 in (45 cm) from the battery if possible. Ensure that hands and jump leads are clear of any moving parts, and that the two vehicles do not touch. Disconnect the leads in the reverse order.

Mains electricity When using an electric power tool, inspection light etc, which works from the mains, always ensure that the appliance is correctly connected to its plug and that, where necessary, it is properly earthed (grounded). Do not use such appliances in damp conditions and, again, beware of creating a spark or applying excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel vapour.

Asbestos

/gnition HT

Certain friction, insulating, sealing, and other products — such as brake linings, brake bands, clutch linings, torque converters, gaskets, etc — contain asbestos. Extreme care must be taken to avoid inhalation of dust from such products since it is hazardous to health. \f in doubt, assume that they do contain asbestos.

, A severe electric shock can result from touching certain parts of the ignition system, such as the HT leads, when the engine is running or being cranked, particularly if components are damp or the insulation is defective. Where an electronic ignition system is fitted, the HT voltage is much higher and could prove fatal. :

voltage

Conversion factors e ee Length (distance) Inches (in)

X X X

Feet (ft) Miles

25.4 0.305

=Millimetres (mm) = Metres (m) = Kilometres (km)

X X X

0.0394 3.281 0.621

X 16.387 = Cubic centimetres (cc: cm?) X 0568 = Litres (I) X 1.137 =Litres (I) X 1.201 =US quarts (US qt) X 0.946 = Litres (I) X 4.546 = Litres (I) X 1.201 =US gallons (US gal) X 3.785 =Litres (I)

X Xx

X

0.061 1.76 0.88 0.833 1.057. 0.22 0.833 0.264

= Cubic inches (cu in; in’) = Imperial pints (Imp pt) = Imperial quarts (Imp qt) =Imperial quarts (Imp qt) =US quarts (US qt) = Imperial gallons (Imp gal) =Imperial gallons (Imp gal) =US gallons (US gal)

28:35) X 0.454

= Grams (gq) =Kilograms (kg)

X X

0.035 2.205

=Ounces (oz) = Pounds (Ib)

X X X

0.278 4.448 0.1

= Newtons (N) = Newtons (N) =Kilograms-force

(kgf; kg)

x X Xx

S26 0.225 9.81

= Ounces-force (ozf; oz) = Pounds-force (Ibf; |b) = Newtons (N)

X

0.070

= Kilograms-force

per square

X

14.223

= Pounds-force

1.609

= Inches (in) = Feet (ft) = Miles

Volume (capacity) Cubic inches (cu in; in’) Imperial pints (Imp pt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) US quarts (US qt) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) Imperial galions (Imp gal) US gallons (US gal)

x X x x X

Mass (weight) Ounces (oz) Pounds (Ib)

Force Ounces-force (ozf; oz) Pounds-force (Ibf; Ib) Newtons (N)

Pressure Pounds-force

per square

inch

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?) Pounds-force

per square

Pounds-force

per square

Pounds-force

per square

inch

X

0.068

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)

=Atmospheres

inch

X

0.069

= Bars

inch

X

$.895

=Kilopascals

per square

inch

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)

centimetre (kgf/cm?; kg/cm?) (atm)

X

14.696

= Pounds-force per square

inch

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)

x

14.5

X

0.145

= Pounds-force per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?) (psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?) X

Kilopascals (kPa)

0.01

(kPa)

= Pounds-force

per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in?: Ib/in?)

per square

=Kilograms-force

x

98.1

= Kilopascals (kPa)

centimetre (kgf/cm?; kg/cm’)

Torque (moment of force) Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; Ib in) Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; Ib in) Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; Ib in) Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft)

X

1.152

XS

0:868

0.113

= Kilograms-force centimetre (kgf cm; kg cm) =Newton metres (Nm)

X

Xx

8.85

X

0.083

= Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft)

x

diz

X

0.138

= Kilograms-force metres

X

7.233

in; Ib in) — = acd inches Ibf in; Ib in = Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft)

X X

0.738 9.804

= Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft) =Newton metres (Nm)

X

0.0013

(kgf m; kg m) Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft) Newton metres (Nm)

X X

1.356 0.102

=Newton metres (Nm) =Kilograms-force metres (kgf m; kg m)

X

745.7

=Watts

X

1.609

= Kilometres per hour (km/hr; kph) X

X X

0.354 0.425

= Kilometres per litre (km/I) = Kilometres per litre (km/I)

Power Horsepower

Velocity

(hp)

(speed)

Miles ae tha (miles/hr; mph)

Fuel consumption*

J

- Miles per gallon, Imperial (mpg) Miles per gallon, US (mpg)

Fahrenheit

x X

=Horsepower (hp)

:

=

(°C x 1.8) + 32

;

0.621

= Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

2.825 2.352

= Miles per ae ieee ibe! pg =Miles per gallon,

.

erature

pee

(W)

e— Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; Ib in) : = cea inches

;

:

'

Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; °C)

(//100km), */t is common practice to convert from miles per gallon (mpg) to litres/100 kilometres where mpg (Imperial) x 1/100 km = 282 and mpg (US) x 1/100 km = 235

= (°F - 32)x0.56

Index

oe See

A

fault diagnosis — 147 handbrake — 141, 143, 244 load conscious pressures reducing valve — 145, 244 master cylinder — 138 pedal assembly — 143 pressure conscious reducing valve — 244 pressure warning light switch — 146 specifications — 131 vacuum servo unit — 143, 145 Bumpers — 202

Air cleaners — 57

Air cleaner (temperature-controlled) — 225 Alternator belt adjustment — 153 description — 151 dismantling — 153

fault diagnosis (AC Delco) — 153 fault diagnosis (Lucas 15 ACR or 17 ACR) — 151 removal and replacement — 153 safety precautions — 151 Antifreeze — 52 Automatic transmission adjustments — 119 description — 116

C

fluid level — 117 removal and replacement

— 119

selector lever, removal and replacement (later models) — 230 specifications — 94, 221 starter

inhibitor

and

reverse

lamp switches

(later models)

230 Auxiliary shaft drivebelt cover — 222 drivebelt, removal — 23 drivebelt, replacement — 42 pulleys — 23 removal — 26 replacement — 42

—

Camshaft drivebelt cover — 222 drivebelt, removal — 23 drivebelt, replacement — 42 pulley — 23 reassembly — 40 removal and inspection — 23 Camshaft housing removal — 23 replacement — 42 Carburettor specifications — 56, 57, 218, 219

Carburettors (twin Zenith/Stromberg 175 CD) — 72 Carburettor (Zenith 36 IV) adjustment — 64 description — 60 dismantling and reassembly — 62 removal and replacement — 62

Carburettor (Zenith 36 IVE)

B

adjustment — 65 description

Battery charging — 151 condition meter — 170 electrolyte replenishment — 150 maintenance — 150 removal and replacement — 150 Big-end bearings

refitting to crankshaft — 38 Big-end bearing shells renewal — 32

Bodywork backlight — 204

centre console (VX series) — 252 front parcel shelf — 216, 252 front wings — 204, 251 glove box — 216, 251 instrument panel covers — 216

interior, maintenance — 202 luggage compartment floor (Estate) — 216

rear quarter window glass (Estate) — 204 repairs — 202 seat belt anchorage and ashtray housing — 252 tailgate (Estate) — 211, 216 Bodywork and underframe description — 201 maintenance — 201 Bonnet lock adjustment — 208 lock and cable — 208 removal and replacement — 204 Boot lid — 208 Braking system bleeding the hydraulic system — 132 description — 132 drum brakes — 132, 133, 135, 140 disc brakes — 132, 135, 138, 140

— 227

Carburettor (Zenith 36 IVT) adjustment — 65 dismantling and reassembly — 65 fast idle screw setting — 227 removal and replacement — 64

Carburettor (Zenith/Stromberg 175 CD—2S) adjustment — 66 dismantling and reassembly — 68 European exhaust emission control adjustment — 70

float chamber fuel level setting — 68 removal and replacement — 68

Carburettor (Zenith/Stromberg 175 CD—2ST) adjustment — 70 dismantling and reassembly — 70 removal and replacement — 70

Carburettor (Zenith/Stromberg 275 CD—2SE and 175 CD-—2SET) adjustment — 228 servicing — 228 Clock — 170 Clutch actuating lever — 90 adjustment — 86 assembly and replacement — 90 cable, removal and replacement — 86

description — 86 fault diagnosis — 92 later models — 230 pedal and shaft, removal pilot bush renewal — 91 removal and inspection removal and inspection specifications — 86 thrust release bearing — Condenser — 80 Connecting rods later models — 224

and replacement — 89 (Borg and Beck) — 89 (Laycock) — 90

90

eee

ee

Index

ee ee

ee

refitting to crankshaft — 38

er

voltage stabilizer — 168 warning lights — 248 wiring diagrams — 175—181. 253—257 Engine bellhousing and cover plate — 21 description — 14 dismantling — 21 fault diagnosis — 48 final reassembly after overhaul — 46

draining — 50 fault diagnosis — 55 filling — 50 flushing — 50 specifications — 49 viscous cooling fan — 224 Crankshaft removal and inspection — 32 replacement — 35

flexplate distance plate — 224

mountings — 21, 222

oil cooler (VX 4/90) — 223 reassembly — 34 removal methods — 14 removal with gearbox — 14 removal without gearbox — 20 replacement in car — 47 specifications — 11, 218 start-up after overhaul — 47 Exhaust manifolds — 24, 75

Crankshaft pulley — 23 — 30

Exhaust system — 75

D

F

Disc brakes adjustment — 132 caliper overhaul — 140 caliper pad — 135 caliper, removal and refitting — 140 disc, removal and refitting — 138 Distributor cam dwell angle — 229 cam lubricator — 229

Fan belt — 55 Fault diagnosis braking system — 146 clutch — 92 cooling system — 55 engine — 48 fuel system — 76 gearbox — 108

ignition system — 84, 85 overdrive — 116

dismantling and reassembly — 80

steering — 200

later models — 229 removal and replacement — 80 rotor — 78 Doors front — 208 rear — 208, 211 removal and replacement — 206 trims and armrests — 251 Drum brakes adjustments — 132 backplate — 135 shoes — 133 shoes adjuster — 135 wheel cylinder — 140

suspension — 200 Flywheel removal — 21 replacement — 39 Fog lamps — 247 Front axle — 190 Front hub bearings — 183, 249

Front turn signal lights — 247 Fuel gauge — 170 Fuel gauge sender unit — 75 Fuel pump description — 58 dismantling and reassembly — 58 later models — 225 removal and replacement — 58 testing — 60 Fuel system description — 57

E Electrical system description — 150 direction indicator switch — 170 flasher circuit — 159 fog lamps — 247 front direction indicator lights — 163, 247 front side lights — 163

fault diagnosis — 76 specifications — 56, 218 Fuel tank — 72 Fuses — 159, 245

G

flexible link — 159, 245 instrument lights — 248 printed circuit — 168 key start switch — 173

Gearbox components inspection — 99 description — 95 dismantling — 98

lighting switch (1976/77 models) — 248 rear light cluster — 163 rear number plate light — 163, 248

demist and fan switches

specifications — 148, 222

es

ventilator and heater assembly — 173

Contact breaker points adjustment — 78 removal and replacement — 78 Conversion factors — 259 Cooling system description — 49

rear window 249

ee

switches, general — 173 thermal circuit breaker — 159

removal — 24 replacement — 34

Cylinder bores inspection and renovation Cylinder head later models — 223 removal — 24 replacement — 39

oe

(1976/77

models) —

extension housing oil seal — 105 fault diagnosis — 108 input shaft, dismantling — 98 input shaft, reassembly — 99

261

262 Index SE OE description — 108 dismantling and reassembly — 110 fault diagnosis — 116 maintenance — 110

mainshaft, dismantling — 98 mainshaft, reassembly — 99

oil draining (later models) — 230 reassembly — 100 removal — 95 replacement — 105

oil draining (later models) — 230 overhaul — 110 precautions — 109 pressure filter — 116 pump non-return valve — 114 relief valve and dashpot assembly — 114 removal and replacement — 110 solenoid control valve — 114

reverse pinion shaft (later models) — 230 specifications — 93, 221 synchro hubs, dismantling — 99 synchro hubs, reassembly — 99

Gearbox

eee

(Getrag 5-speed)

components inspection — 234 description — 231 dismantling — 231 reassembly — 234

removal and refitting — 231 synchro assemblies — 234

Gearchange mechanism — 106

H Handbrake cable adjustment — 141, 244

lever assembly — 143 underbody cables — 141 Headlights — 161, 245, 247 Heater — 173 Heater control facia — 168 Horns — 161, 245

Pp

Pistons inspection and renovation — 30 removal — 30 replacement — 34 Propeller shaft description — 120, 242 removal and replacement — 120 specifications — 120

two-piece shaft (later models) — 242

R Radiator — 50

Radiator grille — 204

Rear axle (except VX series)

Ignition system description — 78 fault diagnosis — 84, 85 specifications — 77 Ignition timing — 80 Inlet manifolds — 24, 75 Instrument facia light bulbs — 168, 248 Victor — 166 VX 4/90 (up to 1976) — 168 VX 4/90 (1977) — 248 VX 2300 GLS — 248

axle shafts bearing and oil seal — 125 axle shafts removal and replacement — 125 » description — 124 pinion, crownwheel and differential overhaul — 127 pinion oil seal — 127 removal and replacement — 124 specifications — 122, 221

Rear axle (VX series) breather — 244 general information — 243 pinion, crownwheel and differential overhaul — 243 pinion oil seal — 243 pinion shaft oil seal baffle — 244 specifications — 221 Routine maintenance — 7

he

S

Light bulbs — 149, 222 Lights — 161, 163, 245, 247, 248 Lighting switch (1976—77 models) — 248

Safety first! — 258 Spare parts, ordering — 4 Spark plugs and HT leads — 82, 229 Speedometer — 170 Starter motor, testing — 155

Lubricants, recommended Lubrication chart — 9 Lubrication system — 34

— 10

ivi

Starter motor (3M 100/PE) dismantling and reassembly — 155 removal and replacement — 155

Starter motor (M35

J/PE)

dismantling and reassembly — 159 Main bearing shells inspection and renewal — 32

O Oil filter — 21 Oil pressure gauge — 170 Oil pump removal and inspection — 26 replacement — 42 Oil suction pipe and strainer — 30 Overdrive

removal and replacement — 157

Starter motor (M35 J/1) dismantling and reassembly — 157 removal and replacement — 157 Steering arm, removal and replacement — 186 column, assembly — 199 column canopy — 196

column lock — 196 column upper mounting bracket and upper bearing — 199 description — 183 fault diagnosis — 200 gear — 192

Index

263

aa geometry — 196 intermediate shaft and coupling — 196 knuckle, removal and replacement — 186 mechanism — 192 specifications — 182 tie-rod outer half joints — 196 wheel — 196, 251 Sump removal — 30 replacement — 38 Suspension arm balljoints — 188 description — 183 fault diagnosis — 200 front shock absorber — 186 front spring — 186

lower arm (front) — 188, 249 lower arm (rear) — 192 Panhard rod — 190 Panhard rod mounting bolt cover — 250 rear shock absorber — 190 rear shock absorber bushes and bumpers — 250 rear spring — 192 rear stabilizer bar — 192 specifications — 182 _ stabilizer bar — 186, 249

1 Tachometer — 170 Tappets reassembly — 40 removal and inspection — 23 Temperature gauge — 170 Thermostat — 50 Throttle control linkate — 72, 228 Tyre pressures — 183 Tyres — 199

U Universal joints dismantling — 121 inspection and repair — 120 reassembly — 121

V Vacuum servo unit air filter renewal — 145 description — 143 overhaul — 143 removal and replacement Valves clearances — 42 reassembly — 39 removal — 24

— 143

timing — 42

W Water pump — 52, 224 Water temperature warning indicator — 55

Wheels — 199 Windscreen — 202 Windscreen washer — 163 Windscreen wipers arms, removal and replacement

— 164

assembly, removal and replacement — 165 fault finding — 164 motor, dismantling and reassembly — 165 switch — 170

Wiring diagrams — 175—181, 253—257

Printed

J H Haynes Sparkford

Somerset

BA22

by

& Co Ltd Nr Yeovil

7JJ

England

a»

Models covered by this manual Victor Series: Saloon, Estate and VX 4/90 models with 1800 and 2300 cc engines VX Series: Saloon, Estate, GLS and VX 4/90 models with 1800 and 2300 cc engines

The clear, step-by-step illustrated instructions cover the dismantling, inspection, repair and refitting of the engine, cooling system, fuel and emission control systems, exhaust, ignition system, clutch, manual gearbox, propeller shaft or drive shafts, braking system, electrical system, suspension, steering, bodywork and fittings. Routine maintenance, complete specifications and detailed fault diagnosis procedures are also included. For rear axle differential units and automatic transmissions (where applicable) the removal, refitting and fault diagnosis procedures only are covered. ONLY HAYNES COMPLETELY STRIP AND REBUILD THE CAR FOR EACH MANUAL

EDUCATIONAL DIVISION APPROVED AND RECOMMENDED

‘These are really worthwhile manuals which can save you a lot of money.’ Autocar ‘Haynes

manuals

are

outstanding for giving the learner mechanic an easy to follow guide to doing most any type of repair on maintenance work on his or her car.’ Road & Track ‘These authentic manuals are actually written from practical experience ...’ Car Mechanics

Whether you just want to change your oil or replace your plugs, or change your clutch or rebuild your gearbox, the Haynes manual will show you how, and can help you save pounds on servicing and repair bills.

‘Excellent value for money, beginners and experts should find it equally useful, overall a mine of information.’ Motor

A Haynes manual can help you stretch your motoring budget that little bit further in other ways too. Regular maintenance and servicing will mean your car is safer to drive whilst giving you more of those precious mpg. What's more, a car that is well looked after will hold its price better and last a lot longer!

ISBN O 85696 541 3

; 38345°0 3 5°001

HAYNES MANUALS EXPLAIN BEST GO BY THE BOOK

‘It is thus opportune that a simply splendid Owners Workshop Manual has just come out. Every imaginable job is illustrated ...’ Autosport ‘For the home mechanic Haynes DIY workshop manuals show clearly step-by-step service Operations in pictures.’ Sunday Mirror