Haynes Morris Marina Owners Workshop Manual 0856964891, 9780856964893

Citation preview

ep D 4)

=

29

a

Be. O —_ot COBe CG Ee9N 00W O%| 0)

Owners Workshop Manual

OT 01644

DI

G

d:-awn _ With EDINBURGH CITY

LIBRARIES

‘Reference Department q THIs BOOK

MUST NOT BE REMOVED

UNDER

ANY PRETEXT FROM THE REFERENCE DEPART-

MENT. INFRINGEMENT OF THIS RULE RENDERS THE OFFENDER LIABLE TO PROSECUTION.

Before leaving the Library readers must return the books to one of the attendants at the issue desk, or they will be held responsible for them.

Readers are required to take care of the books. Writing or drawing with pen or pencil on any part of a book, or turning down the leaves, or cutting or mutilating them, will be treated as serious damage. q CoNVERSATION IN THE REFERENCE DEPARTMENT IS ANNOYING TO STUDENTS, AND IS NOT

Marina Owners Workshop Manual by J H Haynes Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers

and B L Chalmers - Hunt TEng(CE!), AMIMI, AMIRTE, AMVBRA

Models covered UK All models Marina Mk 1 & 2. 1798 cc USA Austin Marina Sedan & GT Coupe. 1798 cc (110 cu in)

ISBN 0 85696 489 1

©

Haynes Publishing Group 1974, 1976, 1978, 1980, 1982, 1983

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing-from the copyright holder.

Printed in England

(074 — 11J5)

HAYNES PUBLISHING GROUP SPARKFORD YEOVIL SOMERSET distributed in the USA by

HAYNES PUBLICATIONS 861 LAWRENCE DRIVE NEWBURY PARK CALIFORNIA 91320 USA

INC

BA22 7JJ ENGLAND

~*~

Acknowledgement Thanks are due to the British Leyland Motor Corporation (Austin/Morris Division) for technical information; to Castrol Limited for lubrication details; to Terry Kimpton Esq. and to the Champion Sparking Plug Company Limited for the provision

About

of spark plug photographs. The bodywork repair photographs used in this manual were provided by Lloyds Industries Limited, who supply ‘Turtle Wax’, Holts ‘Dupli-Color’ and a range of other Holts products.

this manual

[ts aims The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage), provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual to its full purpose by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the vehicle into a garage, and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads. The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Then the tasks are described and photographed in a step-by-step sequence so that even a novice can do the work.

[ts arrangement The manual is divided into thirteen Chapters. The Chapters are each divided into Sections, numbered with single figures, eg 5; and the Sections into paragraphs (or sub-sections), with decimal numbers following on from the Section they are in, eg 5.1, 5.2, 5.3 etc.

Introduction

it is freely illustrated, especially in those parts where there is a detailed sequence of operations to be carried out. There are two forms of illustrations: figures and photographs. The figures are numbered in sequence with decimal. numbers, according to their position in the Chapter: eg Fig 6.4 is the 4th drawing/illustration in Chapter 6. Photographs are numbered (either individually or in

related

groups)

the

same

as the Section

or sub-section

of the

text where the operation they show is described. There is an alphabetical index at the back of the manual as well as a contents list at the front. References to the ‘left’ or ‘right’ of the vehicle are in the sense of a person in the driver's seat facing forwards. Unless otherwise stated, nuts and bolts are removed by turning anti-clockwise, and tightened by turning clockwise. Vehicle manufacturers continually make changes to specifications and recommendations, and these when notified are incorporated into our manuals at the earliest opportunity. Whilst every care is taken to ensure that the information in this manual is correct no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

to the Marina

There are two approaches to building a car. A conventional design can be used, and from it can be expected the reliability and dependability that must come from thé thorough development of a well proven layout. The unconventional car should give some startling advantages, but in return some penalties must be accepted. In the British Leyland Motor Corporation the Ordinary mass produced cars are made by the Austin-Morris Group. Their unconventional cars such as the Mini, the Maxi, and more recently the Allegro, have transverse engines driving the front wheels, and unusual suspension, such as hydrolastic and hydragas. These cars are renowned for their road holding and the large space inside with small overall dimensions. The conventional car is usually cheaper to build and to repair. Its different layout suits some owners who do not take to the transverse engined ones. The Marina is aimed at this large market. The dealer and agency loyalty in the United Kingdom was built originally when Austin and Morris were separate, and rivals. Whilst the Maxi and Allegro use the Austin agency, on the home market the Marina was launched as a Morris. In the USA local British Leyland arrangements call for the Marina to be an Austin. So the Morris Mari, 1 is the home version, and the Austin the North American one. The Morris Marina is available with three body styles and two

engines, only the larger of which is dealt with in this manual. There is the four door Saloon, the two door Coupe, and the five door Estate. There is the ordinary 1.8 engine with one carburettor, and the 1.8 TC with twin carburettors. The TC and the Estate have a brake servo, and the super de luxe trim. The Ordinary Coupe and Saloon may be kad in a de luxe trim. In late 1975 the Mk 2 version became available in the same body styles as the Mk 1 but with various cosmetic changes. The Austin Marina is available in the four door and two door bodies. The two door is the Coupe GT. Only one engine is fitted, and this is a version of the 1.8 engine with single carburettor, and all the necessary equipment to meet the emissions regulations of the USA. It has the brake servo. Either a manual four-speed gearbox, or Borg Warner 35 automatic transmission can be fitted. The engine at the front drives a live rear axle mounted on semic-elliptic leaf springs. At the front the suspension is by longitudinal torsion bars.

The Marina 1.8 engine is basically the same as that which ts used in the MGB. The Marina is simple and straightforward to work on. All the major components have been in use in earlier models so have long development behind them to give reliability.

Contents Page Acknowledgements

2

About this manual

2

Introduction to the Marina

2

Buying spare parts and vehicle identification numbers

5

Safety first!

6

Routine maintenance

7

Recommended lubricants and fluids

10

Tools and working facilities

11

Chapter 1

Engine

13

Chapter 2

Cooling system

55

Chapter 3

Fuel system and carburation

61

Chapter 4

Ignition system

;

75

Chapter 5 Clutch

84

Chapter

91

6 Gearbox and automatic transmission

Chapter 7

Propeller shaft

Chapter 8

Rear axle

Chapter 9

Braking system

113 :

117

125

Chapter 10

Electrical system

137

Chapter 11

Suspension and steering

155

Chapter 12

Bodywerk and underframe

173

Chapter 13

Supplement: Revisions and information on later models

188

Fault Diagnosis

254

Use of English

258

Conversion factors

259

Index

260

‘*

Morris Marina TC Coupe

Morris Marina TC Saloon

Morris Marina Estate

Buying spare and vehicle

parts identification

numbers

Buying spare parts Spare parts are available from many sources, for example: Leyland garages, other garages and accessory shops, and motor factors. Our advice regarding spare parts is as follows: Officially appointed Leyland garages - This is the best source of parts which are peculiar to your car and are otherwise not generally available (eg complete cylinder heads, internal gearbox components, badges, interior trim etc). It is also the only place at which you should buy parts if your car is still under warranty; non-Leyland components may invalidate the warranty. To be sure of obtaining the correct parts it will always be necessary to give the storeman your car’s engine and chassis number, and if possible to take the old part along for positive identification. Remember that many parts are available on a factory exchange scheme - any parts returned should always be clean! It obviously makes good sense to go to the specialists on your car for this type of part for they are best equipped to supply you. Other garages and accessory shops - These are often very good places to buy material and components needed for the maintenance of your car (eg oil filters, spark plugs, bulbs, fan belts, oils

WHEN

and greases, touch-up paint, filler paste etc). They also sell general accessories, usually have convenient opening hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home.

Motor factors - Good factors will stock all of the more important components which wear out relatively quickly (eg clutch components, pistons, valves, exhaust systems, brake cylinders/

pipes/hoses/seals/shoes and pads etc). Motor factors will often provide new or reconditioned components on a part exchange basis - this can save a considerable amount of money.

Vehicle identification numbers The car and body numbers are located on two plates fixed to the left-hand bonnet lock platform. The engine number is affixed to the cylinder block on its right-hand side. The gearbox number is stamped on the right-hand side. The rear axle number is stamped on the outside face of the differential casing joint flange.

MORRIS MOTORS LTD. COWLEY, OXFORD, ENGLAND ORDERING REPLACEMENTS QUOTE

CAR No] MH 4S¢ S 180000M | FRONT SEAT BELT ANCHORAGES COMPLY WITH SPEC" BS. AU. 48-1965 Hoge)

Car number analysis A typical Marina 1.8 car number could be MH2S9T

MH MH MH MH MH

Prefix number

M

M

—

—

Morris.

BLMC

H—

103101

2S 9-10 4S 9-10 2S 9T—10 4S 9T—10 5W9—10

2 door Coupe 4 door Saloon TC 2 door Coupe TC 4 door Saloon Estate

‘B' series engine. 2S/4S —

2 or 4 door

9 — Model series 10 .... —

serial number

internal reference suffix

Engine number 18V

1.8 ‘B’ series engine

(Analysis of the engine number is much more complex because of the options available. Check with a BLMC parts list for clarification). The engine cylinder block should have '1800' embossed on it.

Safety first! Professional motor mechanics are trained in safe working procedures. However enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job in hand, do take the time to ensure that your safety is not put at risk. A moment's lack of attention can result in an accident, as can failure to observe certain elementary precautions. There will always be new ways of having accidents, and the following points do not pretend to be a comprehensive list of all dangers; they are intended rather to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safety-conscious approach to all work you carry out on your vehicle.

Essential DOs and DON'Ts DON'T rely on a single jack when working underneath the vehicle. Always use reliable additional means of support, such as axle stands, securely placed under a part of the vehicle that you know will not give way.

DON'T attempt to loosen or tighten high-torque nuts (e.g. wheel hub nuts) while the vehicle is on a jack; it may be pulled off. DON'T start the engine without first ascertaining that the transmission is in neutral (or ‘Park’ where applicable) and the parking brake applied. DON'T suddenly remove the filler cap from a hot cooling system — cover it with a cloth and release the pressure gradually first, or you may get scalded by escaping coolant. DON'T attempt to drain oil until you are sure it has cooled sufficiently to avoid scalding you. DON'T grasp any part of the engine, exhaust or catalytic converter without first ascertaining that it is sufficiently cool to avoid burning you. DON’T allow brake fluid or antifreeze to contact vehicle paintwork. DON'T syphon toxic liquids such as fuel, brake fluid or antifreeze by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin. DON'T inhale dust — it may be injurious to health (see Asbestos below). DON'T allow any spilt oil or grease to remain on the floor — wipe it up straight away, before someone slips on it. DON'T use ill-fitting spanners or other tools which may slip and cause injury. DON'T attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability — get assistance.

DON'T rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts. DON'T allow children or animals in or around an unattended vehicle. DO wear eye protection when using power tools such as drill, sander, bench grinder etc, and when working under the vehicle. DO use a barrier cream on your hands prior to undertaking dirty jobs — it will protect your skin from infection as well as making the dirt easier to remove afterwards; but make sure your hands aren't left slippery. DO keep loose clothing (cuffs, tie etc) and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts. DO remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle — especially the electrical system. DO ensure that any lifting tackle used has a safe working load rating adequate for the job. DO keep your work area tidy — it is only too easy to fall over articles left lying around. DO get someone to check periodically that all is well, when working alone on the vehicle. DO carry out work in a logical sequence and check that everything is correctly assembled

and tightened afterwards.

Fire Remember at all times that petrol (gasoline) is highly flammable. Never smoke, or have any kind of naked flame around, when working on the vehicle. But the risk does not end there — a spark caused by an electrical short-circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, by careless use of tools, or even by static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite petrol vapour, which in a confined space is highly explosive. Always disconnect the battery earth (ground) terminal before working on any part of the fuel or electrical system, and never risk spilling fuel on to a hot engine or exhaust. It is recommended that a fire extinguisher of a type suitable for fuel and electrical fires is kept handy in the garage or workplace at all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with water.

Fumes Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconsciousness and even death if inhaled to any extent. Petrol (gasoline) vapour comes into this category, as do the vapours from certain solvents such as trichloroethylene. Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated area. When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions carefully. Never use materials from unmarked containers — they may give off poisonous vapours. Never run the engine of a motor vehicle in an enclosed space such as a garage. Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide which is extremely poisonous; if you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the workplace. If you are fortunate enough to have the use of an inspection pit, never drain or pour petrol, and never run the engine, while the vehicle is standing over it; the fumes, being heavier than air, will concentrate in the pit with possibly lethal results.

The battery Never cause a spark, or allow a naked light, near the vehicle’s battery. It will normally be giving off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive. Always disconnect the battery earth (ground) terminal before working on the fuel or electrical systems. If possible, loosen the filler plugs or cover when charging the battery from an external source. Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery may burst. Take care when topping up and when carrying the battery. The acid electrolyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be allowed to contact the eyes or skin. If you ever need to prepare electrolyte yourself, always add the acid slowly to the water, and never the other way round. Protect against splashes by wearing rubber gloves and goggles. When jump starting a car using a booster battery, for negative earth (ground) vehicles, connect the jump leads in the following sequence: First connect one jump lead between the positive (+) terminals of the two batteries. Then connect the other jump lead first to the negative (—) terminal of the booster battery, and then to a good earthing (ground) point on the vehicle to be started, at least 18 in (45 cm) from the battery if possible. Ensure that hands and jump leads are clear of any moving parts, and that the two vehicles do not touch. Disconnect the leads in the reverse order.

Mains electricity When

using an electric power

tool, inspection

light etc, which

DO remember that your vehicle’s safety affects that of yourself and others. If in doubt on any point, get specialist advice. IF, in spite of following these precautions, you are unfortunate enough to injure yourself, seek medical attention as soon as possible.

works from the mains, always ensure that the appliance is correctly connected to its plug and that, where necessary, it is properly earthed (grounded). Do not use such appliances in damp conditions and, again, beware of creating a spark or applying excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel vapour.

Asbestos

Ignition HT voltage

Certain friction, insulating, sealing, and other products — such as brake linings, brake bands, clutch linings, torque converters, gaskets, etc — contain asbestos. Extreme care must be taken to avoid inhalation of dust from such products since it is hazardous to health. \f in doubt, assume that they do contain asbestos.

A severe electric shock can result from touching certain parts of the ignition system, such as the HT leads, when the engine is running or being cranked, particularly if components are damp or the insulation is defective. Where an electronic ignition system is fitted, the HT voltage is much higher and could prove fatal.

Routine maintenance Maintenance safety

should

be

regarded

as essential

for ensuring

and desirable for the purpose of obtaining economy

performance from the car. By far the largest element maintenance routine is visual examination.

and

of the

The maintenance instructions listed are those recommended by the manufacturer. They are supplemented by additional maintenance tasks which, from practical experience, need to be carried out. The additional tasks are indicated by an asterisk and are primarily of a preventative nature — they will assist in eliminating the unexpected failure of a component.

Weekly, before a long journey, or every 250 miles (400 km) 1 Remove the dipstick and check the engine oil level which should be up to the ‘MAX’ mark. Top up the oil in the sump with Castrol GTX. On no account allow the oil to fall below the ‘MIN’ mark on the dipstick. The distance between the ‘MAX’ and ‘MIN’ marks corresponds to the approximately 1.5 pints

(0.85 litre). 2 Check the battery electrolyte level and top up as necessary with distilled water. Make sure that the top of the battery is always kept clean and free of mcisture. See Chapter 10.

3 Inspect the level of water in the translucent plastic reservoir. This should be maintained at the required level mark by adding soft water, such as rain water, via the cap. If the reservoir is empty, remove the radiator filler plug, completely fill the radiator and replace the filler plug. Remove the reservoir

screwed cap and half fill the reservoir. Refit the cap. Check for leaks. See Chapter 4. 4 Check the tyre pressure with an accurate gauge and adjust as necessary. Make sure that the tyre walls and treads are free of damage. Remember that the tyre tread should have a minimum of 1 millimetre depth across three quarters of the total width of the tread. 5 Refill the windscreen washer container with soft water. Add an anti-freezing solution satchet in cold weather to prevent freezing (do not use ordinary anti-freeze). Check that the jets Operate correctly. 6 Remove the wheel trims and check all wheel nuts for tightness but take care not to overtighten.

The interval between oil changes should be reduced in very hot or dusty conditions or during coot weather with much slow or stop/start driving. 2 Wipe the top of the carburettor suction chamber and unscrew and withdraw the oil cap. Top up the dashpot with fresh Castrol

GTX to raise the level to % inch (13mm) above the top of the hollow piston rod. Push the damper assembly back into position and screw the cap firmly into position. 3 Check the carburettor adjustment as described in Chapter 3. 4 Carefully examine the cooling and heater systems for signs of leaks. Make sure that all hose clips are tight and that none of the hoses have cracked or perished. Do not attempt to repair a leaking hose, always fit new. Generally inspect the exterior of the engine for signs of water leaks or stains. The method of repair will depend on its location. This check is particularly important before filling the cooling system with anti-freeze as it has a greater searching action than pure water and is bound to find any weak spots. 5 The fan belt adjustment must be tight enough to drive the alternator without overloading the bearings, including the water pump bearings too. The method of adjusting the fan belt is described in Chapter 2. It is correct when it can be pressed in % inch (18mm) under moderate hand pressure at the mid point of its longest run from the alternator to the crankshaft pulley. 6 Lubricate the accelerator control linkage cable and pedal fulcrum with a little engine oil. 7 Inspect the steering rack rubber boots for signs of leaking which, if evident, must be rectified as described in Chapter 11. 8

Lubricate

with

several

the two

strokes

nipples on each

of the front swivel pins

of the grease gun filled with Castrol

9

Inspect

all steering

ball

joints

for signs of wear,

leaking

rubber boots and securing nuts for tightness. If a ball joint rubber boot has failed the whole assembly should be renewed. See Chapter 11. 10 Check the front wheel alignment. For this special equipment is necessary therefore leave this to the local BLMC garage. See Chapter 11.

Every 6000 miles (10000 km) or 6 months Complete the service items in the weekly service check as applicable, plus: 1 Run the engine until it is hot and then place a container of 8 pints (4.55 litres) under the engine sump drain plug located on the right hand side at the rear of the sump. Remove the drain plug and its copper sealing washer. Allow the oil to drain out for 10 minutes. Whilst this is being done unscrew the old oil filter cartridge located on the right hand side of the engine and discard. Smear the rubber seal on a new cartridge with a little oil and refit it to the filter head. Screw it on and tighten hand tight only. Clean the oil filler cap in paraffin and wipe dry. Check the drain plug copper sealing washer and if damaged fit a new one. Refit the drain plug and sealing

washer. Refill the engine with 6.375 pints (3.8 litres) of Castrol GTX and clean off any oil which may have been spilt over the engine or its components. Run the engine and check the oil level.

LM

Grease.

COOLANT RESERVOIR 7

Pressure cap

2

Reservoir

3

Level mark

8

Routine maintenance

LVL

11 Wipe the top of the brake and clutch master cylinder and unscrew the caps. Check the level of hydraulic fluid in the reservoirs and top up, if necessary to the marks on the exterior of the reservoir with the recommended fluid. Make sure the cap breatner vent is clean and then refit the cap. Take care not to spill any hydraulic fluid on the paintwork as it acts as a solvent. 12 Check the adjustment of the handbrake and footbrake. If travel is excessive refer to Chapter 9 and check the footbrake adjustment and then the handbrake if its travel is still excessive. 13 Refer to Chapter 9 and inspect the brake linings and pads for wear and the front discs and rear drums for scoring. 14 Carefully examine all brake hydraulic pipes and unions for signs of leakage. Check flexible hoses are not in contact with any body or mechanical component when the steering is turned through both locks.

15 Lubricate the nipple on the handbrake cable using a grease gun filled with Castro!) LM Grease. 16 Lubricate all moving parts of the handbrake system with Castrol GTX.

17 From

cars numbered

43892 to 45000 and 48101

and any

cars prior to that if fitted with a grease nipple on the propeller shaft front universal joint lubricate the nipple with 3 to 4 strokes

of the grease gun filler with Castrol LM Grease. 18 Refer to Chapter 4 and remove the spark plugs. Clean, adjust, if necessary, and replace. 19 Refer to Chapter 4, and clean and adjust the distributor contact breaker points.

20 Spring back the two clips and remove the distributor cap. Lift off the rotor arm. Apply a few drops of thin oii over the

screw contact

in the

centre

breaker

of the cam

pivot.

Apply

spindle and on the moving

a smear

of grease

to the cam

surface. Remove any excess oil or grease with a clean rag. Appiy a few drops of oil through the hole in the contact breaker base plate to lubricate the automatic timing control.

bf ie 2 BRAKE 7

AND CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER

Brake master cylinder reservoir

2

RESERVOIRS

Clutch master cylinder reservoir

21 Refer to Chapter 4, and check the ignition timing. Adjust if necessary. 22 Wipe the area around the gearbox level/filler plug. Unscrew the plug and check the level of oil which should be up to the bottom of the threads. Top up if necessary using Castrol Hypoy and refit the plug. Wipe away any spilled oil. 23 Wipe the area around the rear axle level/filler plug. Unscrew the plug and check the level of oil which should be up to the bottom of the threads. Top up if necessary using Castrol Hypoy and refit the plug. Wipe away any spilled oil. 24 Automatic transmission: With the vehicle standing on level ground, apply the handbrake and move the selector to the ‘P’ position. Start the engine and allow to run at idle speed for a minimum of 2 minutes. With the engine still running withdraw the dipstick from the filler tube to be found at the rear of the engine compartment. Wipe the dipstick and quickly replace and withdraw the dipstick again. Check the level of oil and top up if necessary with Castrol TOF. Take great care not to overfill. 25 Generally check the operation of all lights and electrical equipment. Renew any blown bulbs with bulbs of the same wattage rating and rectify any electrical equipment fault. See Chapter 10. 26 Check the battery electrolyte specific gravity as described in Chapter 10. Clean the battery terminals and smear them with vaseline (petroleum jelly) to prevent corrosion. 27 Check the alignment of the headlights and adjust if necessary. See Chapter 10. 28 Apply a few drops of engine oil to the dynamo rear bearing

(where applicable). 29 Check the condition of the windscreen wiper blades and fit new if the blade end ‘has frayed, softened or perished. They should be renewed every 12 months. Generally check the exhaust system for signs of leaks. Apply a little Holts Silencer Seal or Gum Gum to small blow holes. If badly corroded the system must be renewed. Check all exhaust mountings for tightness. Carefully examine all clutch and fuel lines and unions for signs of leakage and flexible hoses for signs of perishing. Check the tightness of all unions and renew any faulty lines or hoses. Lubricate all door, bonnet and boot lid locks, hinges and centrols with Castrol Everyman. Inspect the seat belts for damage to the webbing. Check that all seat and seat belt mountings are tight. Make sure that the rear view mirror is firm in its mounting and is not crazed or cracked. Wash the bodywork and chromium fittings and clean out the interior of the car. Wax polish the bodywork including all

AIR CLEANER 1 2 a

Wing nut and washer Cover Air cleaner body

COMPONENTS 4 5

Sealing ring Renewable filter element

chromium and bright metal trim. Force wax polish into any joints in the bodywork to prevent rust formation. ; If it is wished change over the tyres to equalise wear. Balance the wheels to eliminate any vibration especially from the steering. This must be done on specialist equipment. Lubricate the washer around the wiper spindles with several drops of glycerine.

Xe)

Routine maintenance

Every 12,000 miles (20,000 km) or 12 months

Every 36,000 miles (60,000 km) or 3 years

Complete the service items in the 6000 mile service check as applicable plus: 1 To fit a new air cleaner element, unscrew the wing nut and lift away the cover, body and element which should be discarded. Wipe out the container and fit a new element. Replace the cover. Make sure that the sealing ring between the air cleaner body and carburettor is not damaged or perished. Refit the air cleaner to the carburettor and secure with the fibre washer and nut. During warm weather position the air cleaner intake away

Complete the service items in the 6000 and 12000 mile service as applicable plus: 1 If a brake servo unit is fitted, pull back the filter dust cover and withdraw the end cap. The filter is located in the servo unit housing where the pushrod passes through from the brake pedal. Cut off the old filter element. Cut through the new filter in a diagonal manner to the centre hole and fit it over the pushrod and into the housing. Replace the end cap and dust cover.

from the exhaust manifold or during cold weather move the air intake colse to the exhaust manifold. On TC models undo and remove the air manifold securing nuts and bolts, and lift away. Also remove the support securing

bolt, spring and plain washers. To gain access to the filter element undo atid remove the wing nut and fibre washer. Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal.

2 Remove the oil filler cap and filter assembly on the top of the rocker cover and fit a new one. 3 Refer to Chapter 1, and check the valve rocker clearances.

Adjust as necessary. 4 Refer to Chapter 11, and adjust the front wheel bearing end float. 5 Inspect the ignition HT leads for cracks or deterioration. Replace as necessary. 6* Examine the dynamo brushes, replace them if worn and clean the commutator. See Chapter 13.

Every 24,000 miles (40,000 km) or 18 months

AIR CLEANER ASSEMBLY Complete the service items service check as applicable plus:

in the 6000

and

12,000

mile

1* Examine the hub bearings for wear and replace as necessary.

(TC MODELS ONLY)

1 Air manifold attachments 2 Support securing bolt, spring and plain washer

See Chapter 11.

2* Check the tightness of the battery earth !ead on the body. 3* Renew the condenser in the distributor. See Chapter 4. 4* Remove the starter motor, examine the brushes and replace as necessary. Clean the commutator and starter drive. See Chapter 10. 5* Test the cylinder compressions, and if necessary remove the cylinder head, decarbonise, grind in the valves and fit new valve springs. See Chapter 1 and Chapter 13. 6 Completely drain the brake hydraulic fluid from the system. All seals and flexible hoses throughout the braking system should be examined and preferably renewed. The working surfaces of the master cylinder, wheel and caliper cylinders should be inspected for signs of wear or scoring and new parts fitted as necessary. Refill the hydraulic system with recommended brake fluid. See Chapter 9. 7 Remove alternator. Clean slip rings. Check bushes. Fit a new drive belt.

BRAKE SERVO UNIT AIR FILTER 71 Dust cover 2 Endcap

3 4

Filter Position of cut

10

Component

Lubrication Specification

Castrol product

Engine

Multigrade. To API SE Spec.

Castrol GTX

High quality EP90 gear oil to

Castrol Hypoy B90

Gearbox (manual)

MIL-L-2105B and API Service GL Automatic transmission

High quality ATF BLMC type F

Castrol TOF

Rear axle

High quality EP90 gear oil

Castrol Hypoy B90

Grease points

Multi-purpose high melting point lithium based grease

Castrol LM Grease

Antifreeze solution complying

Castro! Anti-freeze

Cooling system

with BS 3151 or 3152 Brake and clutch systems

Hydraulic brake fluid exceeding SAE Spec J1703f

Castrol Girling Universal Brake and Clutch Fluid

Note: The above are general recommendations only. Different operating territories require different lubricants and therefore, if in doubt, consult the driver’s handbook or the nearest Leyland dealer.

Tools and working facilities Introduction A selection of good tools is a fundamental requirement for anyone contemplating the maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle. For the owner who does not possess any, their purchase will prove a considerable expense, offsetting some of the savings made by doing-it-yourself. However, provided that the tools purchased are of good quality, they will last for many years and prove an extremely worthwhile investment. To help the average owner to decide which tools are needed to carry out the various tasks detailed in this manual, we have compiled three lists of tools under the following headings: Maintenance and minor repair, Repair and overhaul, and Special. The newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit and confine himself to the simpler jobs around the vehicle. Then, as his confidence and experience grows, he can undertake more difficult tasks, buying extra tools as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a Maintenance and minor repair tool kit can be built-up into a Repair and overhau! tool kit over a considerable period of time without any major cash outlays. The experienced do-it-yourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for most repairs and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the Specia/ category when he feels the expense is justified by the amount of use these tools will be put to. It is obviously not possible to cover the subject of tools fully here. For those who wish to learn more about tools and their use there is a book entitled How to Choose and Use Car Tools available from the publishers of this manual.

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit The tools given in this list should be considered as a minimum requirement if routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair operations are to be undertaken. We recommend the purchase of

combination

spanners

The tools in this list will occasionally need to be supplemented by tools from the Special list.

Sockets (or box spanners) to cover range in previous list Reversible ratchet drive (for use with sockets)

Extension piece, 10 inch (for use with sockets) Universal joint (for use with sockets) Torque wrench (for use with sockets) ‘Mole’ wrench - 8 inch Ball pein hammer Soft-faced hammer, plastic or rubber

Screwdriver - 6 in long x 5/16 in dia (flat blade) Screwdriver - 2 in long x 5/16 in square (flat blade) Screwdriver - 1% in long x % in dia (cross blade) Screwdriver - 3 in long x 1/8 in dia (electricians) Pliers - electricians side cutters Pliers - needle nosed Pliers - circlip (internal and external)

Cold chisel - % inch Scriber Scraper Centre punch Pin punch Hacksaw Valve grinding tool

Stee/ rule/straight-edge Allen keys Selection of files Wire brush (large) Axle stands

Jack (strong scissor or hydraulic type)

(ring one end, open-ended the other); al-

though more expensive than open-ended ones, they do give the advantages of both types of spanner.

Combination spanners - 7/16, %, 9/16, 5/8, %, 13/16, 15/16 in AF Adjustable spanner - 9 inch

Engine sump/gearbox/rear axle drain plug key (where applicable) Spark plug spanner (with rubber insert) Spark plug gap adjustment tool Set of feeler gauges Brake bleed nipple spanner Screwdriver - 4 in long x %in dia (flat blade)

Screwdriver - 4 in long x %in dia. (cross blade) Combination pliers - 6 inch Hacksaw - junior Tyre pump Tyre pressure gauge

Grease gun Oil can

Fine emery cloth (1 sheet) Wire brush (small) Funnel (medium size)

Special tools The tools in this list are those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturers’ instructions. Unless relatively difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken frequently, it will not be economical to buy many of these tools. Where this is the case,

you could consider clubbing together with friends (or joining a motorists’ club) to make a joint purchase, or borrowing the tools against a deposit from a local garage or tool hire specialist. The following list contains only those tools and instruments freely available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealer network. You will find occasional references to these manufacturers’ special tools in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the vehicle manufacturer's special tool is given. However, sometimes, there

is no alternative to using them. Where this is the case and the relevant tool cannot be bought or borrowed, entrust the work to a franchised garage. Valve spring compressor

Piston ring compressor 8ailjoint separator

Universal hub/bearing puller

Repair and overhaul tool kit These tools are virtually essential for anyone undertaking any major repairs to amotor vehicle, and are additional to those given

in the Maintenance and minor repair list. \ncluded in this list is a comprehensive set of sockets, Although these are expensive they will be found invaluable as they are so versatile - particularly if various drives are included in the set. We recommend the ¥ in square-drive type, as this can be used with most proprietary torque wrenches, If you cannot afford a socket set, even bought piecemeal, then inexpensive tubular box spanners are a useful alternative,

Impact screwdriver Micrometer and/or vernier gauge Carburettor flow balancing device Dial gauge Strobascopic timing light Dwell angle meter/tachometer Universal electrical multi-meter Cylinder compression gauge Lifting tackle Trolley jack Light with extension lead

you will have to

12

Tools and working facilities

Buying tools For practically all tools, a tool factor is the best source since he will have a very comprehensive range compared with the

average garage or accessory shop. Having said that, accessory shops often offer excellent quality tools at discount prices, so it pays to shop around.

Remember, you don’t have to buy the most expensive items on the shelf, but it is always advisable to steer clear of the very cheap tools. There are plenty of good tools around at reasonable prices, so ask the proprietor or manager of the shop for advice before making a purchase.

Care and maintenance of tools Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is necessary to keep the tools in a clean serviceable condition. After use, always wipe off any dirt, grease and metal particles using a clean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away. Never leave them lying around after they

have been used. A simple tool rack on the garage or

workshop wall, for items such as screwdrivers and pliers, is a good idea. Store all normal spanners and sockets in a metal box. Any measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc, must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged or become rusty. Take a little care when tools are used. Hammer heads inevitably become marked and screwdrivers lose the keen edge on

their blades from time-to-time. A little timely attention with emery cloth or a file will soon restore items like this to a good serviceable finish.

Working facilities Not to be forgotten when discussing tools, is the workshop itself. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some form of suitable working area becomes essential. It is appreciated that many an owner mechanic is forced by circumstances to remove an engine or similar item without the benefit of a garage or workshop. Having done this, any repairs should always be done under the cover of a roof.Wherever possible, any dismantling should be done on a clean flat workbench or table at a suitable working height. Any workbench needs a vice: one with a jaw opening of 4 in (100 mm) is suitable for most jobs. As mentioned previously,

some clean, dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as the lubricants, cleaning fluids, touch-up paints and so on which become necessary.

Another item which may be required, and which has a much more general usage, is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of

at least 5/16 in (8 mm). This, together with a good range of twist drills, is virtually essential for fitting accessories such as wing mirrors and reversing lights. Last, but not least, always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean, lint-free rags available, and try to keep any working area as clean as possible.

Jaw gap (in)

Spanner size

0.525 0.551 0.563 0.591 0.600 0.625 0.630 0.669 0.686 0.709 0.710 0.748 0.750 0.813 0.820 0.866 0.875 0.920 0.938 0.945 1.000 1.010 1.024 1.063 1.100 1.125 1.181 1.200 1.250 1.260 1.300 1.313 1.390 1.417 1.438 1.480 1.500 O75 1.614 1.625 1.670 1.688 1.811 1.813 1.860 1.875 1.969

4 in Whitworth; % in BSF 14 mm

2 in AF 15 mm

% in Whitworth; 2 in BSF

3 in AF 16 mm 17 mm i in AF 18 mm

2 in Whitworth, % in BSF 19 mm

2 in AF #2 in AF

% in Whitworth; + in BSF 22 mm

4 in AF + in Whitworth; % in BSF 8 in AF 24 mm 1 in AF

% in Whitworth; $ in BSF 26 mm

1% in AF; 27 mm 2 in Whitworth; # in BSF 14 in AF 30 mm

#1 in Whitworth; 3 in BSF

14 in AF

32 mm 3 in Whitworth; Z in BSF

1% in AF #2 in Whitworth; 3 in BSF 36 mm

1% in AF

% in Whitworth; 1 in BSF 14 in AF 40 mm; # in Whitworth 41 mm

12 in AF 1 in Whitworth; 14 in BSF 12 in AF 46 mm

1 in AF 14 in Whitworth; 14 in BSF

12 in AF 50 mm

Spanner jaw gap comparison table Jaw gap (in)

Spanner size

0.250

+ in AF

0.276

7 mm

0.313

% in AF

0.315

8 mm

0.344

x in AF; ¢ in Whitworth

0.354

9mm

0.375

in AF

0.394 0.433

10 mm 11 mm

0.438

% in AF

0.445

% in Whitworth; + in BSF

0.472

12 mm

0.500

4+ in AF

A Haltrac hoist and gantry in use during a typical engine

0.512

13 mm

removal sequence

Chapter 1 Engine For modifications, and information applicable to later models, see Supplement at end of manual Contents

General description

... ... ..

1

Major operations with engine it in1 placd ceateasegeatret Major operations with engine removed ... ... 0. ce wee eee Methods of engine removal.,, Engine removal with gearbox (from underside) .

aes eee

Se 4 5

Engine removal less gearbox

6

Engine removal (through engine compartment)... Separating the engine from the gearbox... 1. 2. wk Dismantling the engine -general ... 20. 2... .se 0s vee Removing ancillary engine components ... ... ... 1. Cylinder head removal - engine in car... 0. 0... ee cen Cylinder head removal - engine on bench Valve removal

ee ae soe coe sw. cee

wee

Se ais ee «=8 vee «. 10 eee 17 12 13

Valve guide -removal evi 14 Rocker assembly - dismantling.. : 15 Timing cover, tensioner, gears and chain -- ‘removal... seg ilt3) Meeirusmen ea TOMOVE | gcc asa eee wot cis? ucst ash ates ed Gin periewse nae CLE Distributor drive - removal .. Ree he A Sump, piston, connecting rod and bigvend beating -VerioWal retool £] Gudgeon pin - removal. 20) Piston ring - removal... Sagi . 21 Flywheel and engine backplate - removal: me P4 Crankshaft and main bearings - removal.. 23 Lubrication system - description ... ... ... .. Oil filter - removal and replacement. : EE Oil pressure relief valve -removal and replacement, Oil pump - removal and dismantling.. re a

24 NAS) . 26 ei

Timing chain tensioner - removal and cismantting.. Engine -examination and renovation- general..

28 . 29 Crankshaft -examination and renovation a Sees. 0) Big end and main bearings -examination and renovation Mere A Cylinder bores -examination and renovation Geuleretere aoe Pistons and piston rings -examination and renovation ... .. 33

Camshaft and camshaft bearings -examination andrenovation Valves and seats - examination and renovation ... 1... wv Timing gears and chain - examination and renovation... ... Rockers and rocker shaft -examination and renovation Tappets -examination and renovation Flywheel starter ring gear -examination and renovation Oil pump - examination and renovation 1... 0... 1.2 cee cee Cylinder head and bore - decarbonisation Valve guides - examination and renovation ... ... ... .6. Engine - reassembly - general Crankshaft - replacement Piston and connecting rod - reassembly ... ... ... ce eee Piston ring - replacement Piston replacement Connecting rod to crankshaft « reassembly Soar Give Laver sear Camshaft - replacement.. an’ st eas Oil pump and drive shaft - “replacement vesbnete| eee labhasy Timing gears, chain tensioner, cover- bonlacoment.: Engine backplate - refitting Sump - refitting Oil pressure relief valve Sn evtch. -teplacement Seiten

eee aseLasth RON Prize Poses Scone anaoa) ieee con vasa nixeh phakelitcnmsanl ave) cetnoponpasey ess iesa)) (ase. cau) sab! sed” seh eats asa. eta caoa\ ike

saiuctayil iva @uisn--espoppaek

ebn!'“csepuanth

Guay aes

Ter noes ecesaa ch vilonl vsisoueinse os savy gash. nc i pat i ei ty ae al a

Water and fuel aonp «refitting. Valve anc spring NGASSOOIOIY s cau Rocker shaft - reassembly Tappet replacement Cylinder head - replacement

Ch) csk

SCA tas

Rocker arm valve - adjustment..

al

18V 4 3.160 in (80.26 mm) 3.5 in (88.9 mm)

109.7 in3 (1798 cm3) 1234-2

Compression ratio:

High (HC) Low (LC)

8.0 : 1 (single carburettor models only)

Cranking pressure:

HC Le

190 Ib/in? (13.4 kg/cm2) 170 Ib/in2 (12 kg/cm2)

+ 0.010 in (+ 0.254 mm)

+ 0.020 in (+ 0.508 mm) + 0.030 in (+ 0.762 mm)

+ 0.040 in (+ ORG

UNCesc eR senvkvach acs Mons aps. att: {tush isa. ese vevia Use cisas soscciepey

3

ie

LGR/WH| BR

11

7 {CR ggLGR

iT

in

12

a

il

#(] GRIYW

GR/WH

e 4

GX.

7 are

BL/WH

BL/WH

8

O>-» 28

Hand

ae

in

ori

aides

, ce: anJa

‘s

s aacnentaniel

denen

=

)

ae

tore

otiS vaathectnginee + 97: a as ‘

ie

ry

a

ae

s phe

STE

a

bir

ieee

lad

\

Baa

3

ora

ee?

ae

ae

rang =

ae

ce “ronsi tg

BH

iah

i S Tsao (hiekertine: oak Ce Nile ari ies a a,

!

~ shns bribes

zat

me

ig 2a

apetel

See

y

Pee

|

ee

38

2

» 730

ans)

ec

Ais

heel abc

pti

rable

ie’ faerta

reg

ae!

Oy eteMe A

te

Printed by Haynes Publishing Group Sparkford Yeovil Somerset England

Models covered by this manual trol

tral Shs

All Marina models with 1798 cc ohv engine; Saloon, Coupe and Estate Does not cover models with O Series ohc engine

EDUCATIONAL DIVISION APPROVED AND RECOMMENDED

BARR 2 a | ae

Wwikag

reescsDD

a) |

ak. Ge i Dh

tre

v scaV ae y

&

(edt

a

tol Wy

ey i

aa

Gs

ie

@ Vs &

The clear, step-by-step illustrated instructions cover the dismantling, inspection, repair and refitting of the engine, cocling system, fuel and emission control systems, exhaust, ignition system, clutch, manual gearbox, propeller shaft or drive shafts, braking system, electrical system, suspension, steering, bodywork and fittings. Routine maintenance, complete specifications and detailed fault diagnosis procedures are also

included. For rear axle differential units and automatic transmissions (where applicable) the removal, refitting and fault diagnosis procedures only are covered.

ONLY HAYNES

COMPLETELY STRIP AND REBUILD THE CAR FOR EACH MANUAL ToN

|

Eg

‘These are really worthwhile manuals which can save you a lot of money.” Autocar

‘Haynes manuals are outstanding for giving the learner mechanic an easy to follow guide to doing most any type of repair or

maintenance work on his or her car.’ Road & Track

‘These authentic manuals are actually written from practical experience ...’ Car Mechanics BSE

EEUE

S

Whether you just want to change your oil or replace your plugs, or change your clutch or rebuild your gearbox, the Haynes manual will show you how, and can help you save pounds on servicing and repair bills.

A Haynes manual can help you stretch your motoring budget that little bit further in other ways too. Regular maintenance and servicing will mean your car is safer to drive whilst giving you more of those precious mpg. What's more, a car that is well looked after will hold its price better and last a lot longer!

ISBN 0 85696 489 1

HAYNES MANUALS EXPLAIN BEST elo :) Mi | :iele)

‘Excellent value for money, beginners and experts should find it equally useful, overall a mine of information’ Motor ‘It is thus opportune that a simply splendid Owners Workshop Manual has just come out. Every imaginable job is illustrated ...’ Autosport ‘For the home mechanic

Haynes DIY workshop | manuals show clearly step-by-step service operations in pictures.’