Haynes VW Polo Owners Workshop Manual 1850105014, 9781850105015

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Hatchback, Coupe & Saloon/Classic

1982 to 1988 1043 cco 1093 cco 1272 cc

wu Withdrawn " EDINBURGH CITY LIBRARIES Reference Department UNDER q THis BOOK MUST NOT BE REMOVED RTDEPA E RENC REFE ANY PRETEXT FROM THE ERS REND RULE THIS OF MENT. INFRINGEMENT THE OFFENDER LIABLE TO PROSECUTION. ers must Before leaving the Library read ndants return the books to one of the atte held be will at the issue desk, or they responsible for them. of the Readers are required to take care or pen with ing draw or ing books. Writ ing turn or book, a of part any on pencil ng down the leaves, or cutting or mutilati damage. them, will be treated as serious

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VW Polo Owners Workshop Manual A

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Models covered All VW Polo Hatchback, Saloon/Classic and Coupé models, including special and limited edition versions 1043 cc, 1093 cc & 1272 cc

ISBN 1 85010 501 4 © Haynes Publishing Group 1990 All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder. Printed in England (873-7S5) ABCDE FG

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Haynes Publishing Group Sparkford

Nr Yeovil

Somerset

BA22 7JJ

Haynes

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

England

Publications,

i 861 Lawrence Drive

1. Cars. Maintenance & repair - Amateurs’ manuals sii AaOe

629.28'722

Newbury Park California 91320

Inc

Legg, A. K. (Andrew K.), 7942VW Polo owners workshop manual.

USA

ISBN 1-85010-501-4

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Acknowledgements Special thanks are due to Duckhams Oils, who provided lubrication data, and the Champion Sparking Plug Company who supplied the illustrations showing the various spark plug conditions. Sykes

Pickavant provided some of the workshop tools. Thanks are also due to

all those people at Sparkford who

helped

in the production

of this

manual.

About this manual Its aim The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage), provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads.

of illustration: figures and photographs. The figures are numbered in sequence with decimal numbers, according to their position in the Chapter - eg Fig. 6.4 is the fourth drawing/illustration in Chapter 6. Photographs carry the same number (either individually or in related groups) as the Section or sub-section to which they relate. There is an alphabetical index at the back of the manual as well as a contents list at the front. Each Chapter is also preceded by its own

The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of

Unless otherwise stated, nuts and bolts are removed by turning anticlockwise, and tightened by turning clockwise. Vehicle manufacturers continually make changes to specifications and recommendations, and these, when notified, are incorporated into our manuals at the earliest opportunity. This manual is not a direct reproduction of the vehicle manufacturer's data, and its publication should not be taken as implying any technical approval by the vehicle manufacturers or importers.

the various components so that their layout can be understood. Then the tasks are described and photographed in a step-by-step sequence

so that even a novice can do the work.

Its arrangement The manual is divided into twelve Chapters, each covering a logical sub-division of the vehicle. The Chapters are each divided into Sections, numbered with single figures, eg 5; and the Sections into paragraphs (or sub-sections), with decimal numbers following on from the Section they are in, eg 5.1, 5.2, 5.3 etc. It is freely illustrated, especially in those parts where there is a detailed sequence of operations to be carried out. There are two forms

individual contents list. References to the ‘left’ or ‘right’ of the vehicle are in the sense of a person in the driver's seat facing forwards.

Whilst every care is taken to ensure that the information in this

manual is correct, no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

Introduction to the VW Polo and Classic The VW Polo was introduced in December 1981 as a hatchback, although its shape is more like an estate car. In March 1982 the Polo Classic was introduced which is the saloon car version, and then in 1983

the Polo Coupe was introduced. The engine is available in 1043cc, 1093 cc and 1272 cc sizes and additionally the 1093 cc engine is available as an economy version designated the Formel E. The overhead camshaft engine is mounted transversely at the front

of the car with the gearbox mounted on the left-hand end of the engine. The final drive is located at the rear of the gearbox and driveshafts transmit the drive to the roadwheels. The VW Polo and Classic are well engineered cars returning excellent fuel consumption figures. Information on later models can be found in the Supplement at the end of this manual.

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Introduction to the VW Polo and Classic

2

Fault diagnosis

6

Safety first!

9

eal

General dimensions,

weights and capacities (also see Chapter 12, page

10

188)

11

Buying spare parts and vehicle identification numbers

12

.

Tools and working facilities

14

Jacking and towing

Recommended

Routine maintenance (a/so see Chapter

Chapter

15

lubricants and fluids 12, page

1 Engine (a/so see Chapter 12, page

16

188)

21

188)

45

Chapter 2 Cooling system Chapter 3 Fuel and exhaust systems (a/so see Chapter 12, page

Chapter.4 Ignition system (a/so see Chapter 12, page Chapter 5 Clutch (a/so see Chapter 12, page

51

188)

67

188)

78

188)

Chapter 6 Manual gearbox and final drive (a/so see Chapter

12, page

83

188)

103

Chapter 7 Driveshafts Chapter 8 Braking system (a/so see Chapter

12, page

Chapter 9 Electrical system (a/so see Chapter 12, page

107

188)

119

188)

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering (a/so see Chapter 12, page 188)

156

Chapter 11 Bodywork and fittings (also see Chapter 12, page

171

188)

Chapter 12 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models Eee 8 General repair procedures BB a

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Fault diagnosis Electrical faults

Introduction The vehicle owner who does his or her own maintenance according to the recommended schedules should not have to use this section of the manual

very

often.

Modern

component

reliability is such

that,

provided those items subject to wear or deterioration are inspected or renewed at the specified intervals, sudden failure is comparatively rare. Faults do not usually just happen as a result of sudden failure, but develop over a period of time. Major mechanical failures in particular are usually preceded by characteristic symptoms over hundreds or even thousands of miles. Those components which do occasionally fail without warning are often small and easily carried in the vehicle. With any fault finding, the first step is to decide where to begin investigations. Sometimes this is obvious, but on other occasions a little detective work will be necessary. The owner who makes half a dozen haphazard adjustments or replacements may be successful in curing a fault (or its symptoms), but he will be none the wiser if the fault recurs and he may well have spent more time and money than was necessary. A calm and logical approach will be found to be more satisfactory in the long run. Always take into account any warning signs or abnormalities that may have been noticed in the period preceding the fault —- power loss, high or low gauge readings, unusual noises or smells, etc - and remember that failure of components such as fuses or spark plugs may only be pointers to some underlying fault. The pages which follow here are intended to help in cases of failure to start or breakdown on the road. There is also a Fault Diagnosis Section at the end of each Chapter which should be consulted if the preliminary checks prove unfruitful. Whatever the fault, certain basic principles apply. These are as follows:

Verify the fault. This is simply a matter of being sure that you know what the symptoms are before starting work. This is particularly importantifyou are investigating a fault for someone else who may not have described it very accurately. Don’t overlook the obvious. For example, if the vehicle won't start, is there petrol in the tank? (Don’t take anyone else’s word on this particular point, and don't trust the fuel gauge either!) If an electrical fault is indicated, look for loose or broken wires before digging out the

test gear. Cure the disease, not the symptom. Substituting a flat battery with a fully charged one will get you off the hard shoulder, but if the underlying cause is not attended to, the new battery will go the same way. Simi'arly, changing oil-fouled spark plugs for a new set will get you moving again, but remember that the reason for the fouling (if it wasn’t simply an incorrect grade of plug) will have to be established and corrected. Don’t take anything for granted. Particularly, don't forget that a ‘new’ component may itself be defective (especially if it’s been rattling round in the boot for months), and don’t leave components out of a fault diagnosis sequence just because they are new or recently fitted. When you do finally diagnose a difficult fault, you'll probably realise that all the evidence was there from the start.

Electrical faults can be more puzzling than straightforward mechanical failures, but they are no less susceptible to logical analysis if the basic principles of operation are understood. Vehicle electrical wiring exists in extremely unfavourable conditions — heat, vibration and chemical attack — and the first things to look for are loose or corroded connections and broken or chafed wires, especially where the wires pass through holes in the bodywork or are subject to vibration. All metal-bodied vehicles in current production have one pole of the battery ‘earthed’, ie connected to the vehicle bodywork, and in nearly all modern vehicles it is the negative (-) terminal. The various electrical components — motors, bulb holders etc — are also connected to earth, either by means of a lead or directly by their mountings. Electric current flows through the component and then back to the battery via the bodywork. If the component mounting is loose or corroded, or if a path back to the battery is not available, the circuit will be incomplete and malfunction will result. The engine and/or gearbox are also earthed by means of flexible metal straps to the body or subframe; if these are loose or missing, starter motor, generator and ignition trouble may result. Assuming the earth return to be satisfactory, electrical faults will be due either to component malfunction or to defects in the current supply. Individual components are dealt with in Chapter 9. If supply wires are broken or cracked internally this results in an open-circuit, and the easiest way to check for this is to bypass the suspect wire temporarily with a length of wire having a crocodile clip of suitable connector at each end. Alternatively, a 12V test lamp can be used to verify the presence of supply voltage at various points along the wire and the break can be thus isolated. If a bare portion of a live wire touches the bodywork or other earthed metal part, the electricity will take the low-resistance path thus formed back to the battery: this is known as a short-circuit. Hopefully a short circuit will blow a fuse, but otherwise it may cause burning of the insulation (and possibly further short-circuits) or even a fire. This is why it is inadvisable to bypass persistently blowing fuses with silver foil or

wire.

Spares and tool kit Most vehicles are supplied only with sufficient tools for wheel changing; the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit detailed in Tools and working facilities, with the addition of a hammer, is probably sufficient for those repairs that most motorists would consider attempting at the roadside. In addition a few items which can be fitted without too much trouble in the event of a breakdown should be carried. Experience and available space will modify the list below, but the following may save having to call on professional assistance: Spark plugs, clean and correctly gapped HT lead and plug cap - long enough to reach the plug furthest from the distributor Distributor rotor, condenser and contact breaker points Drivebelt(s) - emergency type may suffice Spare fuses Set of principal light bulbs Tin of radiator sealer and hose bandage Exhaust bandage Roll of insulating tape

Fault diagnosis ea

a

a

7

Engine misfires before cutting out— fuel fault

Length of soft iron wire — Length of electrical flex Torch or inspection lamp (can double as test lamp)

Fuel tank empty Fuel pump defective or filter blocked (check for delivery) Fuel tank filler vent blocked (suction will be evident on releasing cap) Carburettor needle valve sticking

Battery jump leads Tow-rope

Ignition waterproofing aerosol Litre of engine oil Sealed can of hydraulic fluid Emergency windscreen Worm drive clips Tube of filler paste If spare fuel is carried,

A

Carburettor jets blocked (fuel contaminated) Other fuel system fault (see Chapter 3)

Engine cuts out-— other causes Serious overheating Major mechanical failure (eg camshaft drive)

a can designed for the purpose should be

used to minimise risks of leakage and collision damage. A first aid kit and a warning triangle, whilst not at present compulsory in the UK, are obviously sensible items to carry in addition to the above. When touring abroad it may be advisable to carry additional spares

which, even if you cannot fit them yourself, could save having to wait while parts are obtained. The items below may be worth considering: Clutch, throttle and choke cables Cylinder head gasket Alternator brushes Tyre valve core

One of the motoring organisations will availability of fuel etc in foreign countries.

be able

to advise

on

Engine overheats

Temperature gauge reads high Coolant loss due to internal or external leakage (see Chapter 2) Thermostat defective Low oil level Brakes binding Radiator clogged externally or internally Electric cooling fan not operating correctly Engine waterways clogged Ignition timing incorrect or automatic advance malfunctioning Mixture too weak. Note: Do not add cold water to an overheated engine or damage may result

Engine will not start

Engine fails to turn when starter operated Flat battery (recharge, use jump leads, or push start) Battery terminals loose or corroded Battery earth to body defective Engine earth strap loose or broken Starter motor (or solenoid) wiring loose or broken Ignition/starter switch faulty Major mechanical failure (seizure) Starter or solenoid interna! fault (see Chapter 9)

Starter motor turns engine slowly Partially discharged battery (recharge, use jump leads, or push start) Battery terminals loose or corroded Battery earth to body defective Engine earth strap loose Starter motor (or solenoid) wiring loose Starter motor internal fault (see Chapter 9)

Engine turns normally but fails to start Damp or dirty HT leads and distributor cap (crank engine and check

for spark) (photo)) Dirty or incorrectly gapped distributor points No fuel in tank (check for delivery at carburettor and fuel pump (photo) Excessive choke (hot engine) or insufficient choke (cold engine) Fouled or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (remove, clean and regap) Other ignition system fault (see Chapter 4) Other fuel system fault (see Chapter 3) Poor compression (see Chapter 1) Major mechanical failure (eg camshaft drive)

Low engine oil pressure

Warning light flashes with engine running Oil level low or incorrect grade Defective sender unit Wire to sender unit earthed Engine overheating Oil filter clogged or bypass valve defective Oil pressure relief valve defective Oil pick-up strainer clogged Oil pump worn or mountings loose Worn main or big-end bearings Note: Low oil pressure in a high-mileage engine at tickover is not necessarily a cause for concern. Sudden pressure loss at speed is far more significant. In any event, check the gauge or warning light sender

before condemning the engine. Engine noises

Pre-ignition (pinking) on acceleration Incorrect grade of fuel Ignition timing incorrect Distributor faulty or worn Worn or maladjusted carburettor Excessive carbon build-up in engine

Whistling or wheezing noises Leaking vacuum hose Leaking carburettor or manifold gasket Blowing head gasket

Engine fires but will not run Insufficient choke (cold engine) Air leaks at carburettor or inlet manifold Fuel starvation (see Chapter 3) Ignition fault (see Chapter 4)

Tapping or rattling Incorrect valve clearances Worn valve gear Broken piston ring (ticking noise)

Knocking or thumping Engine cuts out and will not restart

Engine cuts out suddenly— ignition fault Loose or disconnected LT wires Wet HT leads or distributor cap (after traversing water splash) Coil or condenser failure (check for spark) Other ignition fault (see Chapter 4)

Unintentional mechanical contact Peripheral component fault (alternator, water pump etc) Worn big-end bearings (regular heavy knocking, perhaps less under load) Worn main bearings (rumbling and knocking, perhaps worsening under load) Piston slap (most noticeable when cold)

Using a spark plug to check for HT spark — do not remove plug from engine otherwise fuel/air mixture may ignite causing fire

Checking for fuel delivery at fuel pump

NEGATIVE

18in. MIN

DISCHARGED BATTERY

Jump start lead connections for negative earth — connect leads in order shown

A simple test lamp is useful for investigating electrical faults

Carrying a few spares may save you a long walk

Safety first! yn

Professional motor mechanics are trained in safe working proce-

dures. However enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job in hand, do take the time to ensure that your safety is not put at risk. A moment's lack of attention can result in an accident, as can failure to observe certain elementary precautions. There will always be new ways of having accidents, and the

following points do not pretend to be a comprehensive list of all dangers; they are intended rather to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safety-conscious approach to all work you carry out on your vehicle.

Essential DOs and DON'Ts DON'T rely on a single jack when working underneath the vehicle. Always use reliable additional means of support, such as axle stands, securely placed under a part of the vehicle that you know will not give

way. : DON'T attempt to loosen or tighten high-torque nuts (e.g. wheel hub nuts) while the vehicle is on a jack; it may be pulled off. DON'T start the engine without first ascertaining that the transmission is in neutral (or ‘Park’ where applicable) and the parking brake applied. DON'T suddenly remove the filler cap from a hot cooling system - cover it with a cloth and release the pressure gradually first, or you may get scalded by escaping coolant. DON'T attempt to drain oil until you are sure it has cooled sufficiently to avoid scalding you. DON'T grasp any part of the engine, exhaust or catalytic converter without first ascertaining that it is sufficiently cool to avoid burning

you. DON'T ailow brake fluid or antifreeze to contact vehicle paintwork. DON’T syphon toxic liquids such as fuel, brake fluid or antifreeze by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin.

DON’T inhale dust — it may be injurious to health (see Asbestos below). DON'T allow any spilt oil or grease to remain on the floor — wipe it up straight away, before someone slips on it. DON'T use ill-fitting spanners or other tools which may slip and cause injury.

DON'T attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability — get assistance. DON'T rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts. DON'T allow children or animals in or around an unattended vehicle. DO wear eye protection when using power tools such as drill, sander, bench grinder etc, and when working under the vehicle. DO use a barrier cream on your hands prior to undertaking dirty jobs — it will protect your skin from infection as well as making the dirt easier to remove afterwards; but make sure your hands aren't left slippery. Note that long-term contact with used engine oil can be a health hazard. DO keep loose clothing (cuffs, tie etc) and long hair well out of the

way of moving mechanical parts. DO remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle — especially the electrical system.

DO ensure that any lifting tackle used has a safe working load rating adequate for the job. DO keep your work area tidy — it is only too easy to fall over articles left lying around. DO get someone to check periodically that all is well, when working alone on the vehicle. DO carry out work in a logical sequence and check that everything is

Fire Remember at all times that petrol (gasoline) is highly flammable. Never smoke, or have any kind of naked flame around, when working on the vehicle. But the risk does not end there — a spark caused by an electrical short-circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, by careless use of tools, or even by static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite petrol vapour, which in a confined space is highly explosive. Always disconnect the battery earth (ground) terminal before working on any part of the fuel or electrical system, and never risk spilling fuel on to a hot engine or exhaust. It is recommended that a fire extinguisher of a type suitable for fuel and electrical fires is kept handy in the garage or workplace at all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with water. Note: Any reference to a ‘torch’ appearing in this manual should always be taken to mean a hand-held battery-operated electric lamp or flashlight. It does NOT mean a welding/gas torch or blowlamp.

Fumes Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconsciousness and even death if inhaled to any extent. Petrol (gasoline) vapour comes into this category, as do the vapours from certain solvents such as trichloroethylene. Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated area. When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions carefully. Never use materials from unmarked containers — they may give off poisonous vapours. Never run the engine of a motor vehicle in an enclosed space such as a garage. Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide which is extremely poisonous; if you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the workplace. If you are fortunate enough to have the use of an inspection pit, never drain or pour petrol, and never run the engine, while the vehicle is standing over it; the fumes, being heavier than air, will concentrate in the pit with possibly lethal results.

The battery Never cause a spark, or allow a naked light, near the vehicle's battery. It will normally be:giving off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive. Always disconnect the battery earth (ground) terminal before working on the fuel or electrical systems. If possible, loosen the filler plugs or cover when charging the battery from an external source. Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery may burst. Take care when topping up and when carrying the battery. The acid electrolyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be allowed to contact the eyes or skin. If you ever need to prepare electrolyte yourself, always add the acid slowly to the water, and never the other way round. Protect against splashes by wearing rubber gloves and goggles. When jump starting a car using a booster battery, for negative earth (ground) vehicles, connect the jump leads in the following sequence: First connect one jump lead between the positive (+) terminals of the two batteries. Then connect the other jump lead first to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery, and then to a good earthing (ground) point on the vehicle to be started, at least 18 in (45 cm) from the battery if possible. Ensure that hands and jump leads are clear of any moving parts, and that the two vehicles do not touch. Disconnect the leads in the reverse order.

correctly assembled and tightened afterwards.

Mains electricity and electrical equipment

DO remember that your vehicle's safety affects that of yourself and others. If in doubt on any point, get specialist advice. IF, in spite of following these precautions, you are unfortunate enough to injure yourself, seek medical attention as soon as possible.

When using an electric power tool, inspection light etc, always ensure that the appliance is correctly connected to its plug and that, where necessary, it is properly earthed (grounded). Do not use such appliances in damp conditions and, again, beware of creating a spark

or applying excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel vapour. Also ensure that the appliances meet the relevant national safety standards.

Asbestos

Ignition HT voltage

Certain friction, insulating, sealing, and other products — such as brake linings, brake bands, clutch linings, torque converters, gaskets, etc — contain asbestos. Extreme care must be taken to avoid inhalation of dust from such products since it is hazardous to health. \f in doubt, assume that they do contain asbestos.

A severe electric shock can result from touching certain parts of the ignition system, such as the HT leads, when the engine is running or being cranked, particularly if components are damp or the insulation is defective. Where an electronic ignition system is fitted, the HT voltage is much higher and could prove fatal.

General dimensions, weights and capacities For information applicable to later models, see Supplement at end of manual Dimensions Overall length: Without headlight WaShel...........::ccsccessceeteesenteeeeneeeeeeees Withiheadlight:washeri...;..stcaiistsic.t0at8..teteseoe0d. tee denen OVE aly tt hi sesce, ies c tot eos ovaeeek tence cae cteavetcemieesetiateew ideas Overall height(unladen) es BAL. a rae GiOUNGICIEATANCE {5 cccsccrssesasnecicececsccessssnesecestsccervetasrecttee saint WVMESID ASS TR LE Ae eak BRI ica saaedes Dlneebeddadeeteetndaentales

143.9 in (3655 mm)

144.5 in (3670 mm)

62.2 in (1580 mm) 53.3 in (1355 mm) 4.2 in (106 mm)

91.9 in (2335 mm)

Track:

51.4 in (1306 mm) 52.4 in (1332 mm)

32.8 ft (10 m)

Weights GROSSIVEMICIE WEIGNEiiss.scncc-sscccescccssctesscecysccctssctstecoessdztesseeeroce Unladen weight:

2492 |b (1130 kg)

BOSSTIATE TTROCENS: csaceteccctecesseceassccerooeaas carncecaetacencstesesttrrercee HPAIMIER TE OCOlScreccccrccctcsesvescccs cocsecctocteesrosstae rresesertccoreortcine MS SHITRENITIOC Cl Siurrtercsercccceciccesecee eenstents cciedescstedeemteenonnetecs IMAXIMUNMTOOTTACKHOAG fess. ctetescttsscetectvcsacusentetseatctenveeresnece

1543 Ib (700 kg) 1566 Ib (710 kg) 1588 Ib (720 kg) 110 Ib (50 kg)

Maximum trailer weight: Unbraked (1:05ilitre: models):....:-sece te cette Unbraked (1.1 and 1.3 litre models) Brakeai(105ilitre models)a-rsttecervtcrncrtiee ea Braked (1.1 and 1.3 litre Models) .............cccccesccceseseseeeers

838 Ib (380 kg) 860 Ib (390 kg) 1323 Ib (600 kg) 1433 Ib (650 kg)

Capacities Engine oil: NIVEL NSICSpercaee ss Ree

radia s cae en suarcBbi nian ucnavesesacseneetienns

WY iGO UEC Io ote ci.cavscxvesbaveovracthisatuesstvstoactiie tesssatevvestactters Difference between minimum and maximum marks

Cooling system (including heater): With internal expansion tank ..........cccsccesseceeseesenseeeeseees With external expansion tank ........ecceeccscesseseeseceeseesenees EUG TalaKeres: racer tnencagtaplar ate tigterecs sceatinwincsscvapsscussaiacazataeitetens Manal G6arDOX, ..ccccccvas oxserssteres SeseicsseercassVensesusisttessicasannased

5.3 pt (3.0 litre) 4.4 pt (2.5 litre) 1.8 pt (1.0 litre)

7.9 pt (4.5 litre) 11.4 pt (6.5 litre)

8.0 gal (36.0 litre) 3.9 pt (2.2 litre)

Buying spare parts and vehicle identification numbers Buying spare parts Spare parts are available from many sources, for example: VW garages, other garages and accessory shops, and motor factors. Our advice regarding spare part sources is as follow: Officially appointed VW garages — This is the best source of parts which are peculiar to your vehicle and are otherwise not generally available (eg; complete cylinder heads, internal gearbox components, badges, interior trim etc). It is also the only place at which you should buy parts if your car is still under warranty — non-VW components may

invalidate the warranty. To be sure of obtaining the correct parts it will always be necessary to give the storeman your car’s engine and chassis number and, if possible, to take the ‘old’ part along for positive identification. Remember that many parts are available on a factory exchange scheme - any parts returned should always be clean! It obviously makes good sense to go straight to the specialists on your car for this type of part for they are best equipped to supply you. Other garages and accessory shops - These are often very good places to buy materials and components needed for the maintenance of your car (eg; oil filters, spark plugs, bulbs, fanbelts, oils and greases, touch-up paint, filler paste etc). They also sell general accessories, usually have convenient opening hours, may charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home. Motor factors -— Good factors will stock all of the more important components which wear out relatively quickly (eg; clutch components, pistons, valves, exhaust system, brake cylinders/pipes/hoses/seals/ shoes and pads, etc). Motor factors will often provide new or reconditioned components on a part exchange basis - this can save a considerable amount of money.

Vehicle identification numbers

Vehicle identification plate location

Modifications are a continuing and unpublicised process in vehicle manufacture quite apart from major model changes. It is therefore essential to give as much information as possible when ordering spare parts. Quote the car model and year of manufacture, and also if necessary the body and engine numbers. The vehicle identification plate is located on the front engine compartment panel, next to the bonnet lock. The chassis number is located on the bulkhead panel behind the air cleaner. The engine number is located on the front face of the cylinder head at the timing belt end (photo).

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Chassis number location

Engine number location

Tools and working facilities Introduction A selection of good tools is a fundamental requirement for anyone contemplating the maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle. For the owner who does not possess any, their purchase will prove a considerable expense, offsetting some of the savings made by doing-it-yourself. However, provided that the tools purchased meet the relevant national safety standards and are of good quality, they will last for many years and prove an extremely worthwhile investment. To help the average owner to decide which tools are needed to carry out the various tasks detailed in this manual, we have compiled three lists of tools under the following headings: Maintenance and minor repair, Repair and overhaul, and Special. The newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit and confine himself to the simpler jobs around the vehicle. Then, as his confidence and experience grow, he can undertake more difficult tasks, buying extra tools as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a Maintenance and minor repair tool kit can be built-up into a Repair and overhaul tool kit over a considerable period of time without any major cash outlays. The experienced do-it-yourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the Special category when he feels the expense is justified by the amount of use to which these tools will be put. It is obviously not possible to cover the subject of tools fully here. For those who wish to learn more about tools and their use there is a book entitled How to Choose and Use Car tools available from the publishers of this manual.

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit The tools given in this list should be considered as a minimum requirement if routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair operations are to be undertaken. We recommend the purchase of combination spanners (ring one end, open-ended the other); although more expensive than open-ended ones, they do give the advantages of both types of spanner. Combination spanners — 10, 11, 12, 13, 14 & 17mm Adjustable spanner - 9 inch Gearbox drain plug key Spark plug spanner (with rubber insert) Spark plug gap adjustment tool Set of feeler gauges Brake bleed nipple spanner

Screwdriver — 4in long xzin dia (flat blade) Screwdriver — 4in long xzin dia (cross blade) Combination pliers — 6 inch Hacksaw (junior) Tyre pump

Tyre pressure gauge Oil can Fine emery cloth (1 sheet)

Wire brush (small) Funnel (medium size)

Repair and overhaul tool kit These tools are virtually essential for anyone undertaking any major repairs to a motor vehicle, and are additional to those given in the Maintenance and minor repair list. Included in this list is a comprehensive set of sockets. Although these are expensive they will be found invaluable as they are so versatile — particularly if various drives are included in the set. We recommend the in square-drive type, as this can be used with most proprietary torque wrenches. If you cannot afford a socket set, even bought piecemeal, then inexpensive tubular box spanners are a useful alternative. The tools in this list will occasionally need to be supplemented by tools from the Special list.

Sockets (or box spanners) to cover range in previous list Reversible ratchet drive (for use with sockets) Extension piece, 10 inch (for use with sockets) Universal joint (for use with sockets) Torque wrench (for use with sockets) Self-locking wrench — 8 inch Ball pein hammer Soft-faced hammer, plastic or rubber Screwdriver — Gin long x 33in dia (flat blade) Screwdriver — 2in long x ;3in dia square (flat blade) Screwdriver — 13in long xzin dia (cross blade) Screwdriver -— 3in long x 4in dia (electricians) Pliers - electricians side cutters Pliers — needle nosed Pliers — circlip (internal and external) Cold chisel - 3 inch Scriber Scraper Centre punch Pin punch Hacksaw Valve grinding tool Steel rule/straight-edge Allen keys

Special tools The tools in this list are those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturers’ instructions. Unless relatively difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken frequently, it will not be economic to buy many of these tools. Where this is the case you could consider clubbing together with friends (or joining a motorists’ club) to make a joint purchase, or borrowing the tools against a deposit from a local garage or tool hire specialist.

a

Tools and working facilities 7

The following list contains only those tools and instruments freely available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealer network. You will find occasional references to these manufacturers’ special tools in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the vehicle manufacturers’ special tool is given. However, sometimes, there is no alternative to using them. Where this is the case and the relevant tool cannot be bought or borrowed, you will have to entrust the work to a franchised garage. Valve spring compressor (where applicable) Piston ring Compressor Balljoint separator Universal hub/bearing puller Impact screwdriver Micrometer and/or vernier gauge Dial gauge Stroboscopic timing light Dwell angle meter/tachometer Universal electrical multi-meter Cylinder compression gauge Lifting tackle Trolley jack Light with extension lead

Buying tools For practically all tools, a tool factor is the best source since he will have a very comprehensive range compared with the average garage or accessory shop. Having said that, accessory shops often offer excellent quality tools at discount prices, so it pays to shop around. There are plenty of good tools around at reasonable prices, but

13

Spanner jaw gap comparison table Jaw gap (in)

Spanner size

0.250

1 in AF

0.276

0.313 0.315

7mm

8 in AF 8 mm

0.344

Yin AF; £ in Whitworth

0.354 O3'75 0.394 0.433 0.438 0.445 0.472 0.500 0.512 01525 0.551

9mm 2 in AF 10 mm 11 mm % in AF % in Whitworth; 4 in BSF 12 mm + in AF 13 mm 4 in Whitworth; 2 in BSF 14 mm

0.591

0.600

15 mm % in Whitworth; 2 in BSF

0.630 0.669

16 mm 17 mm

0.563

0.625

2 in AF

3 in AF

0.686

Yin AF

0.709

18 mm 2 in Whitworth; % in BSF 19 mm

0.710 0.748

0.750 0.813

3 in AF 3 in AF

0.820

% in Whitworth; + in BSF

0.866

22 mm

Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is necessary to keep the

0.920

+ in Whitworth; 2 in BSF

tools in a clean serviceable condition. After use, always wipe off any dirt, grease and metal particles using a clean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away. Never leave them lying around after they have been used. A simple tool rack on the garage or workshop wall, for items such

0.938

#8 in AF

0.945

24 mm

as screwdrivers and pliers is a good idea. Store all normal wrenches and sockets in a metal box. Any measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc, must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged or become rusty. Take a little care when tools are used. Hammer heads inevitably become marked and screwdrivers lose the keen edge on their blades from time to time. A little timely attention with emery cloth or a file will soon restore items like this to a good serviceable finish.

always aim to purchase items which meet the relevant national safety standards. If in doubt, ask the proprietor or manager of the shop for advice before making a purchase.

Care and maintenance of tools

Working facilities Not to be forgotten when discussing tools, is the workshop itself. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some form of suitable working area becomes essential. It is appreciated that many an owner mechanic is forced by circumstances to remove an engine or similar item, without the benefit of a garage or workshop. Having done this, any repairs should always be done under the cover of a roof. Wherever possible, any dismantling should be done on a clean, flat workbench or table at a suitable working height. Any workbench needs a vice: one with a jaw opening of 4 in (100 mm) is suitable for most jobs. As mentioned previously, some clean dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as for lubricants, cleaning fluids, touch-up paints and so on, which become necessary. Another item which may be required, and which has a much more general usage, is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of at least 5/16 in (8 mm). This, together with a good range of twist drills, is virtually essential for fitting accessories such as mirrors and reversing lights. Last, but not least, always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean, lint-free rags available, and try to keep any working area as clean as possible. :

0.875

7 in AF

1.000

1 in AF

1.010

% in Whitworth; 2 in BSF

1.024

26 mm

1.063 1.100

14 in AF; 27 mm $ in Whitworth; #! in BSF

Zo 1.181

14 in AF 30 mm

1.200 1.250

4 in Whitworth; 3 in BSF 12 in AF

1.260

32 mm

1.300

2 in Whitworth; 7 in BSF

1.390 1.417

#3 in Whitworth; # in BSF 36 mm

1.480

$ in Whitworth; 1 in BSF

1,313 1.438

18 in AF

12 in AF

1.500

13 in AF

WASTAS

40 mm; # in Whitworth

1.614 1.625

41 mm 12 in AF

1.670

1 in Whitworth; 14 in BSF

1.688

141 in AF

1.811

46 mm

1.860

14 in Whitworth; 14 in BSF

1.969

50 mm

2.000

2 in AF

2.050 2.165 2.362

1% in Whitworth; 12 in BSF 55 mm 60 mm

1.813 1.875

122 in AF

12 in AF

Jacking and towing The jack supplied with the car tool kit should only be used for changing roadwheels (photos). When using a trolley jack, position it only beneath the sill panels where indicated by the arrow shape, and preferably use a block of wood between the jack and the body. Always support the car with axle stands before working beneath it. Towing eyes are provided beneath the front and rear bumpers on

Spare wheel location

the right-hand side (photos). When being towed, the ignition key should be inserted and turned to position 2 so that the direction indicators, the horn, and if required the windscreen wipers can be used. To prevent any overheating of the ignition coil, disconnect the LT lead from the negative terminal on the coil. Note that the brake servo is inoperative with the engine stopped, so more pedal pressure will be required.

The tool kit is located under the spare wheel

Front towing eye

Rear towing eye

15

Recommended Component Engine

or system

(1)

lubricants and fluids

Lubricant type/specification

Duckhams

recommendation

Multigrade engine oil, viscosity range SAE

Duckhams OXR or Hypergrade

15W/40 to 20W/50, to VW 501 01, 500 00 or 500 00 and 505 00 Gearbox

(2)

Brake hydraulic system

Cooling system

(4)

(3)

Gear oil, viscosity SAE 80 to API-GL 4

Duckhams Hypoid 80

Hydraulic fluid to FMVSS

Duckhams Universal Brake and Clutch Fluid

116 DOT 4

Ethylene glycol based antifreeze with

Duckhams Universal Antifreeze and

corrosion inhibitors

Summer

Coolant

Routine maintenance For information applicable to later models, see Supplement at end of manual Maintenance is essential in the interests of safety, performance and economy. Over the years the need for periodic lubrication — oiling, greasing, and so on -— has been greatly reduced if not totally eliminated. This has unfortunately tended to lead some owners to think that because no such action is required, components either no longer exist, or will last for ever. This is certainly not the case; it is essential to carry out regular visual examination as comprehensively as possible in order to spot any possible defects at an early stage before they develop into major expensive repairs. Note that on pre 1983 models, the lubrication content of the following maintenance was carried out between the main service intervals (ie at 5000 mile/7500km intervals). However it is recommended that where applicable the lubrication service is now combined with the main service at 10000 mile (15000 km) intervals.

Driveshafts Check the CV joint boots for leaks and damage

Braking system Check the brake lines, hoses and unions for leaks and damage Check the disc pads and rear brake shoe linings for wear Check the brake fluid level and top up if necessary (photo)

Electrical system Check the battery electrolyte level and top up with distilled water if

necessary Check headlight beam alignment and adjust if necessary

Steering Check steering gear bellows for leaks and damage

Check steering tie-rod ends for wear and condition of boots

Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly

Tyres

Engine Check the oil level and top up if necessary (photos) Check the coolant level and top up if necessary

Electrical system Top up windscreen/rear window washer reservoirs (photos) Check operation of all lights, wipers, horn etc

Check tread depth and condition of tyres (photo)

Bodywork Lubricate all hinges and catches Check the underbody for corrosion

and

damage

and

reseal

as

necessary

Tyres Check the tyre pressures and adjust if necessary (photo)

Every 20000 miles (30000 km)

Engine Renew the air cleaner element Renew the fuel filter Inspect crankcase ventilation components necessary

Every 10000 miles (15000 km)

Engine Check Check Check Check Check

and if necessary adjust the clutch for oil, fuel and coolant leaks antifreeze concentration and adjust if necessary valve clearances and adjust if necessary condition of alternator drivebelt and adjust tension if necess-

Every 40 000 miles (60 000 km)

Engine Renew timing belt if wished

ary (photo) Renew the spark plugs Renew the contact points and adjust dwell angle Adjust ignition timing Change engine oil and renew oil filter Check exhaust system for leaks and damage Adjust the slow running

Gearbox

and clean or renew as

:

Check oil level and top up if necessary Check for oil leaks

Every two years (regardless of mileage)

Cooling system Renew coolant if wished

Braking system Renew the brake fluid, and check the condition rubber components of the braking system

of the visible

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Oil level dipstick markings

:

Topping up windscreen washer fluid

iif

‘

“i

Checking alternator drivebelt tension

Checking brake fluid level

Rear window washer fluid container

Checking tyre tread depth

Chapter 1 Engine For modifications, and information applicable to later models, see Supplement at end of manual Contents

Ancillary components - refitting Ancillary components — removal Camshaft — examination and renovation Camshaft- refitting

.........cccccscessseceesecseseseeseeseeseees

29 38 Camshaft- removal 10 Crankcase ventilation system — description 21 Crankshaft and bearings— examination and renovation .............00 24 Crankshaft and main bearings — refitting ..........:.ccceseeseseereseeseeeneeenees 32 Crankshaft and main bearings— reMOval .........c:ccesedeseeesecessseseesnseseeeens 19 Crankshaft front oil Seal — remeWall ...........c.ccseessccesseescesseeesseessceeneesseeens 14 Crankshaft rear oil Seal — reneWall ............ccccescceecessceceeceseceeeseeseseaeeeeses 15 Cylinder block — examination and renovation .........cccssceeceeneceseeeneeees 25 Cylinder head — decarbonising, valve grinding and renovation ......... 30 Cyl MGS NGA STGISTINAMUNIMGite nccstectsencescccseteescescccesasevcssequereecaeccredectssc> 11 CylinGerneac!—sKEASSEMPLY -x..ccsieccscevanceceerevcrtncieesccs-cectaveastetenerardtesereatss 37 CVIGE TINCAG == NERICLIENG) .coccssaseecc so -vesacaceccatePenceect cegicceckasstetelsstelseccecess 39 Vite rahGAG ANEINOVAll cat cr sterckesh cecsencsestectnacttescssseteserterssslsesnccoeteestsi 9 Engine— adjustment after major OVerhaul ..........eceeseeesteeeenseeeeneeeseaees 45 EROG —SRETILUNG eractcee cs cecccpeascsz aces cccsandssiteertees ves nctensarectcosephnt akcrsbucessseee 44 ENGINE = TETICLIMNG TO GQEATDOX css. cesnrevvfevszcrenossiaeveeestececarerssecoceseapceauenezeots 43 REANIM AGC MIVOWGa treme ecen es cares ettc este atyoncchactesatemnecaatsu teeters stcsectssveactabarve 5 Engine— separation from Gearbox ........:cseccessceseesesenseeeseeesesereseesseeseees 6 EMGIME CISINANTIIMG =. GEMELAl |s..-ccsccssescconecopecencecececsnccsntsonnsecocnseasanceonsvess 7/ EMGime FeaSSEMDlY —'GENEYAl «.....2....ccccsseceoccesdesecgoecctenseoevesscecnssecTennseeee 31

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Lo

Fig. 12.42 Removing the 3rd/4th synchro sleeve, 4th gear and taper roller bearing inner race — five-speed gearbox A

(Sec 7)

Support clamp for use with

press

H. 25/75

Fig. 12.43 Removing the 3rd/4th synchro hub and 3rd gear using a press — five-speed gearbox (Sec 7)

Fig. 12.44 Correct orientation of 3rd/4th synchro sleeve and hub — five-speed gearbox (Sec 7) Long spline side of hub (above lower arrow) faces 4th gear. Upper arrow indicates additional identification

groove.

H.25176

220

13

14

Lhe 15

16

17 18

wu

Tees CF ———\.

23 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 25 26 Fig. 12.45 Exploded view of the output shaft components — five-speed gearbox (Sec 7)

Clutch housing Shim Taper roller bearing outer race Taper roller bearing inner race Output shaft 4th gear Circlip Circlip BOND wONO~3rd gear A Needle bearing 2nd gear Synchro ring 7st/2nd synchro unit

Circlip Needle bearing Synchro ring 7st gear Thrust washer

~

g)

20 27 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 37 32 33 34

Taper roller bearing inner race Taper roller bearing outer

race Gearbox housing Wire spring Sliding key 7st/2nd synchro hub 1st/2nd synchro sleeve Wire spring Thrust washer Needle bearing sleeve Needle bearing 5th speed driven gear Synchro ring 5th gear synchro hub 5th gear synchro sleeve Locking clip

Fig. 12.46 Removing 1st gear and the taper roller bearing using a press — five-speed gearbox

(Sec 7)

Chapter 12 Supplement

221

41 Remove the 3rd gear, the circlips and 4th gear. 42 Do not remove the remaining taper roller bearing from the pinion end of the output shaft unless renewal is required.

43 To dismantle the synchro unit, remove the wire springs, withdraw the sliding keys and separate the hub and sleeve after marking them for identification on reassembly. 44 Check the components of the output

shaft

with

reference

to

paragraphs 34 to 35. 45 When reassembling the synchro hub and sleeve, ensure that the three recesses for the sliding keys in the hub and sleeve are aligned, then mate the two parts with reference to Fig. 12.45 and the marks

made when dismantling. 46 With the sleeve and hub assembled, insert the sliding keys and fit the wire springs, one on each side of the hub and pointing in different directions. Position the springs so that their ends are offset by 120°. The spring with the angled end must engage with the hollow key. 47 Reassemble the output shaft with reference to Fig. 12.45 and ensuring that all the parts are well lubricated with gear gil. Use a press where necessary and ensure that the selector fork groove on the synchro sleeve is towards 1st gear when fitting the synchro unit.

Differential unit — servicing 48 The procedure is the same as described for the four-speed gearbox in Chapter 6, Section 6.

Clutch housing — servicing 49 The procedure is the same as described for the four-speed gearbox in Chapter 6, Section 7 except that the shafts are supported in taper roller bearings rather then needle bearings, and any references to bearing renewal should be ignored. Note that if it is necessary to renew the housing or the bearing outer races, then the bearing preloads will require readjustment. This work must be carried out by a VAG dealer due to the special equipment involved.

Gearbox housing — servicing H.25'179

Fig. 12.47 Removing 2nd gear and the 1st/2nd synchro unit using a press — five-speed gearbox (Sec 7)

50 Clean the housing and examine it for damage and cracks, or wear and scoring of the bearing outer races. If evident, the housing or outer races should be renewed, but note that if this is done the bearing preloads will require readjustment. This must be carried out by a VAG dealer due to the special equipment involved.

Five-speed gearbox — reassembly 51 Reassembly of the gearbox is a direct reversal of the dismantling sequence described in paragraphs 3 to 29 inclusive. Make sure that all components are clean, and during reassembly lubricate all bearing surfaces with gear oil. 52 Fit the 5th gear components last using the following procedure. 53 Before fitting the 5th gear selector fork and synchro sleeve, apply a thread-locking compound to the threads of the ball-headed bolt and screw in the bolt with 5th gear engaged. The bali-headed bolt should then be adjusted as follows before tightening the locknut. Note that the 5th gear synchro hub and sleeve should be orientated as shown in Fig. 12.48.

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uf Nan

54 Lay the gearbox horizontally on the bench in its installed position with all the gears in neutral. 55 Turn the ball-headed bolt until the edge of the synchro sleeve is flush with the edge of the synchro hub. 56 Engage 5th gear and turn the ball-headed bolt until the edge of the selector fork just contacts the edge of the synchro sleeve groove nearest to the gearbox housing. Screw the ball-headed bolt out again until there is just clearance between the fork edge and the synchro sleeve edge (approximately 1/8 of a turn). Hold the ball-headed bolt and tighten the locknut.

| 8

Fig. 12.48 Correct orientation of 5th gear synchro hub and sleeve — five-speed gearbox (Sec 7) Synchro sleeve raised tooth (A) must engage with hub centre tooth space (B) when assembled (note that there are 3 raised teeth)

Braking system

VW ‘MK I’ and ‘Mk II’ brake calipers — description 1

Later Polo models are fitted with VW ‘Mk I’ or ‘Mk II’ single piston

sliding type front brake calipers. Apart from detail differences, both caliper types are similar in design and construction and the following sub-sections apply to both types.

222

H.25178

Fig. 12.49 Exploded view of the VW ‘Mk II’ front brake caliper (Mk | caliper similar) (Sec 8) 7

Caliper housing

5

Caliper securing bolts

9

Lower retaining spring

73

Dust cap

2 3 4

components Caliper frame Caliper frame retaining bolt Sleeve

6 7 8

Splash plate Splash plate retaining bolt Upper retaining spring

70 71. 72

Bleed screw Brake disc Screw

4 715 16

Disc pads Guide bushes Piston sealing ring and dust seal

Chapter 12 Supplement

223

RE

Front disc pads (VW ‘Mk I--and ‘Mk II’ calipers) — inspection and renewal 2 Initial inspection of the pads to determine wear is the same as described in Chapter 8, Section 3, paragraph 1. If renewal is necessary, proceed as follows.

3 Jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands. Remove both front roadwheels. 4 Using an Allen key, unscrew the upper and ower caliper securing bolts. Withdraw the caliper and tie it up out of the way. Do not allow the weight of the caliper to stretch.or distort the brake hose. 5 Withdraw each pad by sliding it sideways from the caliper frame. 6 Remove the retaining springs from the caliper frame noting the way they are fitted. 7 Brush the dust and dirt from the caliper, piston, disc and pads, but do not inhale it as it is injurious to health. Scrape any scale or rust from the disc and pad backing plates. 8 If the pads are to be renewed, they must be replaced as a set on

12 Refit the brake caliper, locating it at the top end first. Pivot the bottom end into position, align the upper and lower retaining bolt holes, then insert the bolts. Take care not to press the caliper in more than is necessary when fitting the bolts, or the retaining springs may be distorted which, in turn, will give noisy braking. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque. 13 On completion, the brake pedal should be depressed firmly several times with the car stationary so that the brake pads take up their normal running. positions. Also check the. brake hydraulic fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir and top up if necessary.

Front brake caliper (VW ‘Mk I’ and ‘Mk II’ calipers) removal, overhaul and refitting 14 Unbolt and remove the caliper from the caliper frame as described in the previous sub-section. 15 Clamp the flexible brake hose using a brake hose clamp or self-locking wrench with suitably protected jaws. 16 Slacken the brake hose union at the caliper, then hold the union and unscrew the caliper from it. Plug the hose union to prevent dirt ingress. 17 Clean the external surfaces of the caliper with paraffin and wipe dry; plug the fluid inlet during this operation. 18 Prise free and remove the dust seal from the piston. 19 Using air pressure from a foot pump in the fluid inlet, blow the piston from the cylinder, but take care not to drop the piston. Prise the sealing ring from the cylinder bore. Take care not to scratch the cylinder bore. 20 Clean the components with methylated spirit and allow to dry. Inspect the surfaces of the piston, cylinder and frames for wear, damage and corrosion. If evident renew the caliper but, if the components are in good condition obtain a repair kit of seals. 21 Dip the new sealing ring in brake fluid and locate it in the cylinder bore groove using the fingers only to manipulate it. 22 Manipulate the new dust cap into position on the piston, the inner seal lip engaging in the piston groove. Use a suitable screwdriver to ease it into position, but take care not to damage the seal or scratch the

piston. 23 Smear the piston with brake fluid and press it into position in the caliper bore.

24 Check that the brake hose union is clean, then unplug it and refit it to the caliper, but do not fully tighten it at this stage. 25 Refit the caliper as described in the previous sub-section. 26 Tighten the brake hose union so that the hose is not twisted or in a position where it will chafe against surrounding components. 27 Remove the hose clamp, top up the brake fluid reservoir and bleed the brakes, described in Chapter 8.

Front brake hydraulic hose — modification 28 With the introduction of the VW ‘Mk I’ and ‘Mk II’ brake calipers, the wheel bearing housing has also been modified in the area of the clip used to secure the latest type brake hose. 29 Should it be necessary to renew a wheel bearing housing, the modified brake hose must also be obtained.

Fig. 12.50 Exploded view of later type handbrake components (Sec 8) 7

Cover

8

Compensator

2 3

Handbrake lever Adjuster nut

9 70

Support Spring washer

4 _ Front cable

77

Bolt

5 6 Are

72 73 14

Clamp Bracket Clip

Clamp Rear cables Clip

both sides at the front. If the original pads are to be re-used they must be refitted to their original positions each side. 9 Using a piece of wood, push the piston back into the caliper, but

while doing this check the level of the fluid in the reservoir and if necessary draw off some with a pipette or release some from the caliper bleed screw. Tighten the screw immediately afterwards. 10 Relocate the retaining springs. 11 Refit the inner pad followed by the outer pad. Locate the pad backing plate notches in the caliper frame.

Handbrake components (later models) — general 30 The handbrake lever, cables and associated components have been modified on later models — see Fig. 12.50. 31 No further information was available at the time of writing.

9

Electrical system

Automatic stop-start system — description 1 From March 1984, Formel E models are equipped with an automatic stop-start (SSA) system, in addition to the gearshift/ consumption indicator (GCI). 2 Thesystem requires specialist test equipment to check its operation and diagnose faults, and if it fails to operate satisfactorily, it is recommended that the vehicle is taken to your local VAG dealer. Description of operation 3 The SSA system is switched on or off, as required, by a switch on the facia panel. 4 For the system to become operative, the coolant temperature must be above 55°C (131°F) and the vehicle road-speed in excess of 5 km/hour (3 mph).

224

Chapter 12 Supplement

i

5 The engine is automatically switched off when road-speed drops below this point and 1st, 2nd or reverse gears are not engaged.

6

When the SSA system is in operation, the heated rear window and

oil pressure warning light are switched off. 7 The engine will be started automatically when the gear lever is moved from neutral toward 1st, 2nd or reverse, and the clutch pedal depressed. 8 Should the engine stall when moving off, the engine may be restarted by moving the gear lever back to neutral and then into 1st, 2nd or reverse gear within 6 seconds of stalling. 9 Wiring diagrams for the SSA system appear at the end of this Section; the following paragraphs and figures show component location and removal/refitting procedures for individual components.

ee

16 Remove

the instrument

panel, undo

the screws

(arrowed)

and

remove the speed sensor unit.

17 The SSA master switch is located on the facia panel. 18 To remove it, carefully lever the switch out and pull off the connector.

SSA components — removal and refitting 10 The stop-start panel.

automatic

control

unit is located

under the facia

11 Remove the two screws (Fig. 12.51) and pull the control unit off the relay plate. 12 The heated rear window and oil pressure warning cut-off relay is located on the double relay plate by the steering column, behind the

shelf (Fig. 12.52). 13 To remove the relay, first remove the shelf and then pull the relay off the relay plate. 14 The gearshift indicator control unit is on the same relay plate. 15 The speed sensor is located in the instrument panel (Fig. 12.53).

Fig. 12.51 Stop-start system automatic control unit retaining screws — arrowed (Sec 9)

Fig. 12.52 Double relay plate (Sec 9) Fig. 12.53 Speed sensor retaining screws — arrowed

(Sec 9)

A Heated rear window and oil pressure warning cut-off relay B Gearshift indicator contro/ unit

19 The SSA gearbox switch is located on the underside of the gearbox (Fig. 12.54). 20 To remove the switch, disconnect the wiring connector and unscrew the switch. Retain the shim. 21 When refitting the switch, use a shim of the same thickness as that removed.

22 The gearbox switch for gearshift/consumption indicator can also be seen in Fig. 12.54. 23 Refitting for all items is a reversal of the removal procedure. 24 Check gearbox oil level and top up as necessary.

Oil pressure warning system (1983 on) - description 25 All models from 1983 on are equipped with an optical and acoustic

oil pressure warning system. 26 The oil pressure switches for these warning systems are mounted on the cylinder head.

Fig.

12.54 The SSA gearbox switch (A) and gearshift/ consumption indicator switch (B) (Sec 9)

27 The switches are 1.8 bar (white insulation) and 0.3 bar (brown insulation). 28 On starting the engine, as soon as the oil pressure rises about 0.3 bar, the oil pressure warning light will go out. 29 At engine speeds above 2000 rpm the high pressure switch comes into operation, and should the oil pressure drop below 1.8 bar, the oil warning light will come on and the buzzer will sound. 30 On some earlier models, the buzzer will also sound in the low pressure mode on start-up.

Chapter 12 Supplement 31 Apart from changing the oil pressure switches, little can be done by way of maintenance, and your VAG dealer should be consulted if the system malfunctions. -

Headlamp

washer system — description

32 Later Polo models are available with a headlamp washer system as an optional extra. ) = 33 The system comprises a fluid reservoir, located in the engine compartment and also serving the windscreen washers, an electric pump attached to the reservoir, a washer jet for each headlamp located

in the bumper overriders, two check valves and associated hoses.

225

Alternator drivebelt (later models) — adjustment 40 On some later models the alternator adjusting link incorporates a positive tensioning device (Fig. 12.55). Adjustment of the drivebelt is carried out as follows. 41 Slacken the alternator pivot bolt, the adjusting link pivot bolt and the tensioning bolt. 42 Apply a torque of 4 Nm (3 Ibf ft) to the tensioning nut. Hold the nut in this position and tighten the tensioning bolt, the link pivot bolt and the alternator pivot bolt. 43 Check the drivebelt deflection by hand in the usual way (Chapter 9, Section 7).

Headlamp washer system jets — adjustment, removal and refitting A 34 The jets should be adjusted so that the flow of water strikes the headlamp 10 mm (0.4 in) above the centre of the lamp glass. 35 Should it be necessary to remove the jets for cleaning, prise the ball-head out using a screwdriver and clean using compressed air. Before fitting, operate the washers briefly to clear the hoses and check valve, then push the ball-head back into place. 36 Access to the check valves and hoses can be gained after removing the bumper as described in Chapter 11.

Dim-dip lighting system 37 Recent legislation requires that all vehicles registered in the UK after the 1st April 1987 should be equipped with a dim-dip lighting system. 38 The system provides the headlamps with a brightness between that of the sidelamps and the headlamps on normal dipped beam. The purpose of the system is to prevent vehicles being driven on sidelamps only. 39 Full information will be given in the vehicle handbook, but basically, the dim-dip lamps are in operation whenever the light switch is in the ‘ON’ position and the ignition is switched on.

Fig. 12.55 Alternator

Wiring diagrams overleaf

adjusting link with device (Sec 9)

positive tensioning

226

Va

Ex

Sis

WS sw/ro

| 12928

'

10

gn/ro

10

gn/ws

© L

| s

1

Designation

in current track

:

i:

EQ

To fresh air blower switch

|

|

J30

Rear window wiper/washer relay

J31

To intermittent wash/wipe

M6 $14 sLaIN T2d T2c T12/ T29 Vi2 V13 Z1

To rear left turn signal Fuse in fuse box Connector, single in boot rear left Connector, 2 point, in tailgate near wiper motor Connector, 2 point, in tailgate near wiper motor Connector, 12 point behind dash Connector, 29 point behind dash Rear wiper motor To rear washer pump motor To heated rear window

bape

pe

Pe le

Js

Tx

Te.

E22

®

36

To intermittent wiper switch

34 34,35

relay

34

35,36 33 34

Earthing point in insulating sleeve of left engine compartment loom

Earthing point in insulating sleeve of right engine compartment loom

@

Earthing point, bound with insulating tape in dash loom Earthing point, bound with insulating tape in instrument loom

I

i

wiki

isofal

Tee

Colour code

Tra

bl

Blue

br gn

Brown Green

ro sw ws

Red Black White

gr

Grey

@©OOO@ 33

«634

35

36

Fig. 12.56 Wiring diagram amendment

for 1982 CL and GL models

Use with Fig. 9.18 in Chapter 9

227 Key to Fig. 12.57 Designation In current track 1 Battery Starter 5to7 Alternator 3 to 4 Voltage regulator 3 to 4 Ignition/starter switch 6 to 9 Lighting switch 71 to 75 Turn signal switch 60,61 Emergency light switch 55 to 63 Headlight dimmer/flasher switch 75 to 77 Fresh air blower switch 37,38 Heated rear witdow switch Parking light switch Instrument/instrument panel lighting control Intermittent wiper switch F Brake light switch F1 Oil pressure switch F2 Front left door contact switch F3 Front right door contact switch F4 Reversing light switch F9 Handbrake warning system switch F18 Radiator fan thermoswitch F22 Oil pressure switch Brake fluid level warning contact Thermoswitch for automatic choke Fuel gauge sender Fuel gauge Coolant temperature gauge sender Coolant temperature gauge

A B C C1 D E1 E2 E3 E4 EQ E15 E19 E20 E22

Horn plate Horn Emergency light relay Voltage stabilizer Rear window wiper/washer relay“ Intermittent wash/wipe relay Relief relay for X contact Intake manifold preheating relay Oil pressure monitor control unit Main beam warning lamp Generator warning lamp

bulb, bulb, bulb, bulb, turn

Ignition distributor Spark plug connector Spark plugs

O P

Q R

10 to 12 be 22 i

T2g T2h

Connector 2 pin, behind dash panel, near fusebox Connector, 2 pin, in engine compartment, front right Connector, 2 pin, behind dash panel, near fusebox

Connector, 3 pin, behind dash panel, near fusebox Connector, 4 pin, behind dash panel, (radio bracket) Connector, 8 pin, on fusebox 12 pin, behind dash panel 14 pin, on dash panel insert

Connector, 20 pin, on fusebox Connector, 20 pin, on fusebox Connector, 29 pin, behind dash panel

51 42 46

Connector, 32 pin, on fusebox Cigarette lighter Windscreen wiper motor Fresh air blower Windscreen washer pump Radiator fan Rear wiper motor” Rear washer pump motor” Interior light, front Number plate light Clock Heated rear window Z1 * Polo and Polo Coupe only

ZS

Earthing strap, from battery, via body to gearbox Earthing strap, from engine to body

Earthing wire, on steering gear Earthing point, under rear seat

Earthing point, on tailgate lock carrier plate

Earthing point, in insulating tube of wiring loom in engine compartment, left Earthing point, in insulating @OOOOO @ compartment, right

tube of wiring loom in engine

Earthing point, bound up with insulating tape in dash panel wiring loom

@®@ ©

Earthing point, bound up with insulating tape in wiring loom for instruments

Positive (+) connections

Series resistance Series resistance for fresh air blower

@

58b in wiring loom for instruments

Colour code br

Blue Brown

87 e 38 36 91 33,34 35 84,85 2,13 86 82

Earthing points

left right right left signal bulb

Rear left turn signal bulb Front right turn signal bulb Rear right turn signal bulb Brake light bulb, left Brake light bulb, right Reversing light bulb right Ignition coil Automatic choke By-pass air cut-off valve

bl

gn gr

12

Radio connection S1 to S16 Fuses in fusebox Connector, single, in engine compartment, rear carburettor Tet Connector, single, in boot, rear left Tila Connector, single, behind dash panel, near fusebox Tib Connector, single, in boot, left hic Connector, single, in boot, rear left Tid Connector, single, in boot on lock carrier plate Tie Connector, single, behind dash panel, near fusebox Tif Connector, single, behind dash panel, near fusebox Tig Connector, single, behind dash panel, near fusebox Tih Connector, single, in engine compartment, near carburettor T1i Connector 2 pin, in engine compartment, near carburettor TZ Connector 2 pin, in engine compartment, left T2a Connector 2 pin, in boot, rear left T2c Connector 2 pin, in tailgate, near wiper motor T2d Connector, 2 pin, in engine compartment, front left T2e Connector 2 pin, behind dash panel, near fusebox T2f

Connector, Connector,

Oil pressure warning lamp Turn signal warning lamp Emergency light system warning lamp Heated rear window warning lamp Handbrake warning lamp Coolant temp. warning lamp (overheating, red) Twin filament headlight bulb, left Twin filament headlight bulb, right Lighting switch light bulb Instrument panel insert light bulb Fresh air controls light bulb Rear cigarette lighter light bulb Heated rear window switch bulb

Sidelight Tail light Sidelight Tail light Front left

Designation In current track Heater resistance for intake manifold preheating 13 N51

Green Grey

ro Sw

Red Black

ws

White

228

| 2

be Sio

A;

7132/3)

10 swiae

T 200/18

i

|

= T20/4

129/10

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Beh

By jo 0,5

10 swibe

10 S/ws/ 9A 20/5

rT ' Tie

be/b| he | 6/86

|

|

Swi/b)

igi ode

8/87

| 4/85

2,5

0,5

tolws

be

10 Sai |WS

Ti

iB Doone

be

ib

25

16

Fig. 12.57 Wiring diagram for Polo models — 1985 onwards

be

be

15

10

17

18

19

229 (0 WS a

YY OE

a

aA

ZY Se

YY

STE SS ER OE

ET

swage as

sw Stay |

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a

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RES)

i "" " 4 15

15

| B is)

S

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132/30

15

10

Ae

Neus

25

wsla@ —gr/ws

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S,

132/29 |

T8/1

15

[ls 10

129/10

Ihe.

132/20

Sz

132/4 i

ae

Ns

swige

Si 132/21

132/19 rR

15

10

15 ule

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io

129/28

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53

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10. Baiccs

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a

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ix

|

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i

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10

10

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10

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1200/4

15

es

10

15

a¢/sw 1200/5

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3

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drzon Weg asi

5 16

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Wes

ae

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if

ri 200/

i

3

ge

Sel be ba

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10

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Tha

,

‘as

1,0

1,0

{

x

grlsw swbr 53

530

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Vi

15

Q

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V.

:

19

20

21

22

23

24

25

26

27

be 1,0

le

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@

je

@

@

br 0,5

br 1,0

br 25

br 25

oe 15

|

1200/12

|

Teo

28

31

ZNSE}

Fig. 12.57 Wiring diagram for Polo models — 1985 onwards

34

35

(continued)

36

15

37

230

L]

i.

Su 132/21

15 swito

05

ie

114/14 | an

Md

swige

eee

b OS

14

5

14/8

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05 brlge

; SB 1200/5 /AT20q/10/)\T 200/11

114/10

114/12

Y

|

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0,5 A T,

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05 bi

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05 ge

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114/3

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114/4

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114/13

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05 b\ /sw

05 Vi lsw

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05 b\/ro

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i

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0,5

|

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05

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ae

ao

T200/16

O).8bar

0,3bar

1112/7

vee

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a @ ib 3)

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Fi

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a

t i’

bs

|

lise

hb

|

be

bor

or

0,5

0,5

05

@

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lo ® 46

47

48

Fig. 12.57 Wiring diagram for Polo models — 1985 onwards

©

49

50

(continued)

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