Haynes Ford Tempo & Mercury Topaz Automotive Repair Manual [1418] 1563920026, 9781563920028

Citation preview

TEMPO « 0) Wd

1984 thru 1991 All gasoline engine models

Dr

i

Ford Tempo & Mercury lopaz

Automotive

Repair Manual — by Mike Stubblefield and John H Haynes Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers

Models covered:

Ford Tempo and Mercury Topaz with 2.3L HSC 4-cylinder engine 1984 through 1991

(2U4 — 1418)

4

Wee MRR

fon

4 Vv

4

MEMBER

Haynes Publishing Group Sparkford Nr Yeovil Somerset BA22 7JJ England Haynes North America, Inc 861 Lawrence Drive Newbury Park California 91320 USA ee if

Acknowledgements We are grateful for the help and cooperation of Ford Motor Company for assistance with technical information, certain illustrations and vehicle photos, and the Champion Spark Plug Company, who supplied the illustrations of various spark plug conditions.

© Haynes North America, Inc.

1987, 1989, 1991

With permission from J.H. Haynes & Co. Ltd.

A book in the Haynes Automotive Repair Manual Series Printed in the U.S.A. Allrights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced ortransmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 56392 0026 Library of Congress Catalog Card Number 91-75872 While every attempt is made to ensure that the information in this manualis correct, no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omis-

sions from, the information given.

Contents Introductory pages About this manual Introduction to the Ford Tempo/Mercury Topaz Vehicle identification numbers Buying parts

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Booster battery (jump) starting Jacking and towing Automotive chemicals and lubricants Safety first! Conversion factors Troubleshooting

5 5 6 8

8 15

15 17 18 19 20

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

27

Chapter 2 Part A Engine

56

Chapter 2 Part B General engine overhaul procedures

71

. Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

102

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

114

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

135

Chapter 6 Emissions control systems

154

Chapter 7 Part A Manual transaxle

169

Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transaxle

178

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles

186

Chapter 9 Brakes

200

Chapter 10 Steering and suspension systems

215

Chapter 11 Body

234

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

255

Chapter 13 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models

288

Wiring diagrams

300

Index

325

—

GHYO4d

OdIN3l

About this manual [ts purpose The purpose of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done, even if you choose to have it done by a dealer service department or a repair shop; it provides information and procedures for routine maintenance and servicing; and it offers diagnostic and repair procedures to follow when trouble occurs. It is hoped that you will use the manual to tackle the work yourself. For many simpler jobs, doing it yourself may be quicker than arranging an appointment to get the vehicle into a shop and making the trips to leave it and pick it up. More importantly, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the expense the shop must pass on to you to cover its labor and overhead costs. An added benefit is the sense of satisfaction and accomplishment that you feel after having done the job yourself.

lines. Each Section consists of consecutively numbered paragraphs. At the beginning of each numbered section you will be referred to any illustrations which apply to the procedures in that section. The reference numbers used in illustration captions pinpoint the pertinent Section and the Step within that section. That is, illustration 3.2 means

the illustration refers to Section 3 and Step (or paragraph) 2 within that Section. Procedures, once described in the text, are not normally repeated. When it is necessary to refer to another Chapter, the reference will be given as Chapter and Section number i.e. Chapter 1/16). Cross references given without use of the word ‘‘Chapter’’ apply to Sections and/or paragraphs in the same Chapter. For example, ‘‘see Section 8” means in the same Chapter.

Using the manual

Reference to the left or right side of the vehicle is based on the assumption that one is sitting in the driver's seat, facing forward. Even though extreme care has been taken during the preparation

The manual is divided into Chapters. Each Chapter is divided into numbered Sections, which are headed in bold type between horizontal

of this manual, neither the publisher nor the author can accept responsibility for any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

NOTE A Note provides information necessary to properly complete a procedure or information which will make the steps to be followed easier to understand.

CAUTION A Caution indicates a special procedure or special steps which must be taken in the course of completing

the procedure in which the Caution is found which are necessary to avoid damage to the assembly being worked on.

WARNING A Warning indicates a special procedure or special steps which must be taken in the course of completing the procedure in which the Warning is found which are necessary to avoid injury to the person performing the procedure.

Introduction to the Ford Tempo/Mercury Topaz The Ford Tempo and Mercury Topaz were introduced in 1984. The compact, front wheel drive sedans are available in either two or four door models. All vehicles are powered by Ford’s 2.3L, overhead valve, High Swirl

Combustion (HSC) four-cylinder engine. The 1984 HSC engine is equipped with an electronic feedback carburetor (50-states). In 1985, the carburetor was replaced by a central fuel injection (CFI) system. All Canadian vehicles are equipped with a non-feedback carburetor.

Available transaxies are a four or five speed manual and an automatic

transaxle in 1984 and 1985. After the 1985 model year the four speed was no longer available. ; The front suspension is a conventional front wheel drive MacPherson strut design. The rear suspension is also a MacPherson strut design, each side consisting of a shock absorber strut assembly and two parallel control arms.

Vehicle identification numbers Modifications are a continuing and unpublicized process in automotive manufacturing. Because spare parts manuals and lists are compiled on a numerical basis, the individual vehicle numbers are essen-

tial to correctly identify the component

required.

Vehicle identification number (VIN) The VIN number is very important because it is used for title and registration purposes. The VIN number is stamped on a metal plate fastened to the instrument panel close to the windshield on the driver’s

side (see illustration).

Vehicle Certification Label The Vehicle Certification Label (VC Label) is affixed to the left front door lock panel or door pillar (see illustration). The upper half of the label contains the name of the manufacturer, the month and year of

manufacture, the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) and the certification statement. The VC label also contains a 17-character Vehicle Identification Number which is used for warranty identification of the vehicle and indicates such things as manufacturer, type of restraint system, line, series, body type, engine model year and consecutive unit number.

Engine identification number :

i

The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN), stamped on a metal plate fastened to the top of the dashboard on the driver's side, is clearly visible through the windshield

For quick engine identification, refer to the VIN, which lists the engine code in position number 8 (see illustration). Find the engine code (letter or number), then refer to the engine identification chart to determine the engine type and size.

Transaxle ratio number The transaxle ratio is listed on the Vehicle Certification label on the door pillar under ‘‘AX’’. Refer to the accompanying chart to identify the ratio used.

Transaxle identification number The transaxle identification number is located on a tag (see illustration) attached to the transaxle housing.

Build

Day Code

Month

Transmission Model

Line Shift Code A2341

PMA A E1EP-AA

Serial No.

The Vehicle Certification label (VC label) is on the left front door lock panel or the door pillar

Assy. Part No. Prefix & Suffix

The automatic transaxle identification tag

1FABP43F2FZ100001

(1)

VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER

\—

WORLD

MFD. BY FORD MOTOR CO. IN U.S.A. DATE: 09-84 FRONT GAWR: 2714LB 1231 KG

RESTRAINT SYSTEM

GVWR: 5347 LB — 2425 KG REAR GAWR: 2683 LB 1216 KG

\—

VEH. IDENT. NO. 1FABP43F2FZ100001 YPE PASSENGER PAINT COLORS

“6 66 MLDG.

INT. TRIM

A/C

R

TYPE

Ss .

LINE, SERIES, BODY TYPE

©

ENGINE TYPE

@

CHECK DIGIT

©

MODEL YEAR

@

ASSEMBLY PLANT

(1) (0) (0) (0) (0) @

2A EXTERIOR

IDENTIFIER

@®)—— CONSTANT “"P”

THIS VEHICLE CONFORMS TO ALL APPLICABLE FEDERAL MOTOR VEHICLE SAFETY AND BUMPER STANDARDS IN EFFECT ON THE DATE OF MANUFACTURE SHOWN ABOVE.

BODY 54

MANUFACTURER

\—pRODUCTION SEQUENCE NUMBER

(2)— VeHicLe TYPE

(3)— Paint

@)— BODY TYPE CODE (3)— vinye ROOF Oz

BODY SIDE MOULDING TRIM CODE — (FIRST CODE LETTER = a= FABRIC AND SEAT TYPE, SECOND CODE = COLOR) @— AIR CONDITIONING @)— RADIO ()— SUN/MOON ROOF i)

AXLE RATIO

=

TRANSMISSION

(a)—

SPRINGS — FRONT L. AND R., REAR L. AND R. (4 CODES)

(@— DISTRICT SALES OFFICE (s)— PTO/SPL ORDER NUMBER

VIN model year chart (VIN position 10)

()— ACCESSORY RESERVE LOAD

(VIN POSITION 8) 1FABP18 |R| 2FZ100001 Displacement VIN Code

2

Liter

CID

1.6

98

Cylinders

Manufacturer Gasoline

Ford

1.6 HO

Gasoline

Ford

1.6 EFI

Gasoline

Ford

1.6 MHO

Methanol

Ford

1.6 EFI (Turbo)

Gasoline

Ford

2.0 D

Diesel

Toyo Kogyo

2.3 HSC

Gasoline

Ford

2.3 CFI

Gasoline

Ford

Gasoline

Ford

2.3 HO FS NO DTON on

CFI

>

52 Sf fF S$ + 2

Engine identification chart (VIN position 8)

3

i?)

Ford vehicle identification number codes

Transaxle Ratio

1 2 3 4

5 7 9 H

Transaxle ratio codes

Buying parts Replacement parts are available from many sources, which generally fall into one of two categories —authorized dealer parts departments and independent retail auto parts stores. Our advice concerning these parts is as follows: Retail auto parts stores: Good auto parts stores will stock frequently needed components which wear out relatively fast, such as clutch components, exhaust systems, brake parts, tune-up parts, etc. These stores often supply new or reconditioned parts on an exchange basis, which can save a considerable amount of money. Discount auto parts stores are often very good places to buy materials and parts needed for general vehicle maintenance such as oil, grease, filters, spark plugs, belts, touch-up paint, bulbs, etc. They

also usually sell tools and general accessories, have convenient hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home. Authorized dealer parts department: This is the best source for parts which are unique to the vehicle and not generally available elsewhere (such as major engine parts, transmission parts, trim pieces, etc.). Warranty information: If the vehicle is still covered under warranty, be sure that any replacement parts purchased — regardless of the source — do not invalidate the warranty! To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, have engine and chassis numbers available and, if possible, take the old parts along for positive identification.

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Maintenance

techniques

There are a number of techniques involved in maintenance and that will be referred to throughout this manual. Application of techniques will enable the home mechanic to be more efficient, organized and capable of performing the various tasks properly, will ensure that the repair job is thorough and complete.

repair these better which

Fasteners Fasteners are nuts, bolts, studs and screws used to hold two or more

parts together. There are a few things to keep in mind when working with fasteners. Almost all of them use a locking device of some type,

either a lockwasher,

locknut,

locking tab or thread

adhesive.

All

threaded fasteners should be clean and straight, with undamaged threads and undamaged corners on the hex head where the wrench fits. Develop the habit of replacing all damaged nuts and bolts with new ones. Special locknuts with nylon or fiber inserts can only be used

once. If they are removed, they lose their locking ability and must be replaced with new ones. Rusted nuts and bolts should be treated with a penetrating fluid to ease removal and prevent breakage. Some mechanics use turpentine in a spout-type oil can, which works quite well. After applying the rust penetrant, let it work for a few minutes before trying to loosen the nut or bolt. Badly rusted fasteners may have to be chiseled or sawed off or removed with a special nut breaker, available at tool stores. If a bolt or stud breaks off in an assembly, it can be drilled and removed with a special tool commonly available for this purpose. Most automotive machine shops can perform this task, as well as other repair procedures, such as the repair of threaded holes that have been stripped out.

‘

Flat washers and lockwashers, when removed from an assembly, should always be replaced exactly as removed. Replace any damaged washers with new ones. Never use a lockwasher on any soft metal surface (such as aluminum), thin sheet metal or plastic.

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Fastener sizes For a number of reasons, automobile manufacturers are making wider and wider use of metric fasteners. Therefore, it is important to be able to tell the difference between standard (sometimes called U.S. or SAE) and metric hardware, since they cannot be interchanged. All bolts, whether standard or metric, are sized according to diameter, thread pitch and length. For example, a standard 1/2 — 13 x 1 bolt is 1/2 inch in diameter, has 13 threads per inch and is 1 inch long. An M12 — 1.75 x 25 metric bolt is 12 mm in diameter, has a thread pitch of 1.75 mm (the distance between threads) and is 25 mm long. The two bolts are nearly identical, and easily confused, but they are not interchangeable. In addition to the differences in diameter, thread pitch and length, metric and standard bolts can also be distinguished by examining the bolt heads. To begin with, the distance across the flats on a standard bolt head is measured in inches, while the same dimension on a metric bolt is sized in millimeters (the same is true for nuts). As a result, a

Grade

standard wrench should not be used on a metric bolt and a metric wrench should not be used on a standard bolt. Also, most standard bolts have slashes radiating out from the center of the head to denote

the grade or strength of the bolt, which is an indication of the amount of torque that can be applied to it. The greater the number of slashes, the greater the strength of the bolt. Grades O through 5 are commonly used on automobiles. Metric bolts have a property class (grade) number, rather than a slash, molded into their heads to indicate bolt strength. In this case, the higher the number, the stronger the bolt. Property class numbers 8.8, 9.8 and 10.9 are commonly used on automobiles.

Strength markings can also be used to distinguish standard hex nuts from metric hex nuts. Many standard nuts have dots stamped into one side, while metric nuts are marked with a number. The greater the number of dots, or the higher the number, the greater the strength of the nut. Metric studs are also marked on their ends according to property class (grade). Larger studs are numbered (the same as metric bolts),

1 or 2

Bolt strength markings (top — standard/SAE/USS;

Grade

Identification

Class

Grade 8

6 Dots Standard hex nut strength markings

—

metric)

a)

Hex Nut Property Class 10

Nut

bottom

Identification

Hex Nut Property Class 9

Hex Nut Grade 5

Hex

9

Arabic10 Metric hex nut strength markings

CLASS 9.8 Metric stud strength markings

CLASS 8.8

10

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

while smaller studs carry a geometric code to denote grade. It should be noted that many fasteners, especially Grades O through 2, have no distinguishing marks on them. When such is the case, the only way to determine whether it is standard or metric is to measure the thread pitch or compare it to a known fastener of the same size. Standard fasteners are often referred to as SAE, as opposed to metric. However, it should be noted that SAE technically refers to a

non-metric fine thread fastener only. fasteners are referred to as USS sizes.

Coarse

thread

non-metric

Since fasteners of the same size (both standard and metric) may have different strength ratings, be sure to reinstall any bolts, studs or nuts

removed from your vehicle in their original locations. Also, when replacing a fastener with a new

one, make

sure that the new

one has

a strength rating equal to or greater than the original.

Metric

WE oe CIB PD,"

Most threaded fasteners should be tightened to a specific torque value (torque is the twisting force applied to a threaded component such as a nut or bolt). Overtightening the fastener can weaken it and cause it to break, while undertightening can cause it to eventually come loose. Bolts, screws and studs, depending on the material they are made of and their thread diameters, have specific torque values, many of which are noted in the Specifications at the beginning of each Chapter. Be sure to follow the torque recommendations closely. For fasteners not assigned a specific torque, a general torque value chart is presented here as a guide. These torque values are for dry (unlubricated) fasteners threaded into steel or cast iron (not aluminum). As was previously mentioned, the size and grade of a fastener determine the amount of torque that can safely be applied to it. The figures listed here are approximate

thread sizes

Ft-Ib 6 to 9 14 to 21 28 to 40 50 to 71 80 to 140

Nm/m 9 to: 12 19 to 28 38 to 54 68 to 96 109 to 154

5 to 8 12 to 18 2210733 25 to 35

7 to 10 17 to 24 30 to 44 34 to 47

ees pete ot

6 to 9 12 to 18

9 to 12 17 to 24

ane ates Re ae PEAS a

14 Ze 27 40 40 55

19 to 27 30 to 43 37 to 51 55 to 74 55 to 81 75 to 108

ee Oe, bok ORE Fee eae a eee, Rica = ake Mas riety he oe eee a See eee arnt

U.S. thread sizes 1) eee OO aerate: we ree seera Gy ecg heiienge tas’bycee heee one OO ee Ae et emer Sees me OO B= 1G be east eeedi ey de CYS) Se OW en Pee Be eee THANE aoa IC ogee anaes tae =, eae ENGL Overs RR Oe 1 2ie esTOL i rin” ns ea

Standard (SAE and USS) bolt dimensions/grade G

Tightening sequences and procedures

Grade marks (bolt strength) Length (in inches) Thread pitch (number of threads per inch)

Nominal diameter (in inches)

marks

to 20 tOrse to 38 to 55 to 60 to 80

Metric bolt dimensions/grade marks

P L T D

Property class (bolt strength) Length (in millimeters) Thread pitch (distance between Diameter

threads in millimeters)

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities for Grade 2 and Grade 3 fasteners. Higher grades can tolerate higher torque values. Fasteners laid out in a pattern, such as cylinder head bolts, oil pan

bolts, differential cover bolts, etc., must be loosened or tightened in sequence to avoid warping the component. This sequence will normally be shown in the appropriate Chapter. If a specific pattern is not given, the following procedures can be used to prevent warping.

Initially, the bolts or nuts should be assembled finger-tight only. Next, they should be tightened one full turn each, in a criss-cross or diagonal pattern. After each one has been tightened one full turn, return to the first one and tighten them all one-half turn, following the same pattern. Finally, tighten each of them one-quarter turn at a time until each fastener has been tightened to the proper torque. To loosen and remove the fasteners, the procedure

would be reversed.

Component disassembly Component disassembly should be done with care and purpose to help ensure that the parts go back together properly. Always keep track of the sequence in which parts are removed. Make note of special characteristics or marks on parts that can be installed more than one way, such as a grooved thrust washer on a shaft. It is a good idea to lay the disassembled parts out on a clean surface in the order that they were removed. It may also be helpful to make sketches or take instant photos of components before removal. When removing fasteners from a component, keep track of their locations. Sometimes threading a bolt back in a part, or putting the washers and nut back on a stud, can prevent mix-ups later. If nuts and bolts cannot be returned to their original locations, they should be kept in a compartmented box or a series of small boxes. A cupcake or muffin tin is ideal for this purpose, since each cavity can hold the bolts and nuts from a particular area (i.e. oil pan bolts, valve cover bolts, engine mount bolts, etc.). A pan of this type is especially helpful when working on assemblies with very small parts, such as the carburetor, alternator, valve train or interior dash and trim pieces. The cavities can be marked with paint or tape to identify the contents. Whenever wiring looms, harnesses or connectors are separated, it is a good idea to identify the two halves with numbered pieces of masking tape so they can be easily reconnected.

Gasket sealing surfaces Throughout any vehicle, gaskets are used to seal the mating surfaces between two parts and keep lubricants, fluids, vacuum or pressure contained in an assembly. Many times these gaskets are coated with a liquid or paste-type gasket sealing compound before assembly. Age, heat and pressure can sometimes cause the two parts to stick together so tightly that they are very difficult to separate. Often, the assembly can be loosened by striking it with a soft-face hammer near the mating surfaces. A regular hammer can be used if a block of wood is placed between the hammer and the part. Do not hammer on cast parts or parts that could be easily damaged. With any particularly stubborn part, always recheck to make sure that every fastener has been removed. Avoid using a screwdriver or bar to pry apart an assembly, as they

Micrometer set

11

can easily mar the gasket sealing surfaces of the parts, which must remain smooth. If prying is absolutely necessary, use an old broom handle, but keep in mind that extra clean up will be necessary if the wood splinters.

After the parts are separated, the old gasket must be carefully scraped off and the gasket surfaces cleaned. Stubborn gasket material can be soaked with rust penetrant or treated with a special chemical to soften it so it can be easily scraped off. A scraper can be fashioned from a piece of copper tubing by flattening and sharpening one end. Copper is recommended because it is usually softer than the surfaces to be scraped, which reduces the chance of gouging the part. Some

gaskets can be removed with a wire brush, but regardless of the method used, the mating surfaces must be left clean and smooth. If for some

reason the gasket surface is gouged, then a gasket sealer thick enough to fill scratches will have to be used during reassembly of the components. For most applications, a non-drying (or semi-drying) gasket sealer should be used.

Hose removal tips Warning: /f the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, do not disconnect any of the A/C hoses without first having the system depressurized by a dealer service department or an air conditioning specialist.

Hose removal precautions closely parallel gasket removal precautions. Avoid scratching or gouging the surface that the hose mates against or the connection may leak. This is especially true for radiator hoses. Because of various chemical reactions, the rubber in hoses can bond itself to the metal spigot that the hose fits over. To remove a hose, first loosen the hose clamps that secure it to the spigot. Then, with slip-joint pliers, grab the hose at the clamp and rotate it around the spigot. Work it back and forth until it is completely free, then pull it off. Silicone or other lubricants will ease removal if they can be applied between the hose and the outside of the spigot. Apply the same lubricant to the inside of the hose and the outside of the spigot to simplify installation. As a last resort (and if the hose is to be replaced with a new one anyway), the rubber can be slit with a knife and the hose peeled from the spigot. If this must be done, be careful that the metal connection is not damaged. If a hose clamp is broken or damaged, do not reuse it. Wire-type clamps usually weaken with age, so it is a good idea to replace them with screw-type clamps whenever a hose is removed.

Tools A selection of good tools is a basic requirement for anyone who plans to maintain and repair his or her own vehicle. For the owner who has few tools, the initial investment might seem high, but when compared to the spiraling costs of professional auto maintenance and repair, it is a wise one.

Dial indicator set

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

12

Hand-operated vacuum

pump

Timing light

Compression gauge with spark plug hole adapter =

Ridge reamer

Valve spring compressor

Valve spring compressor

Piston ring groove cleaning tool

Ring removal/installation tool

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

13

Ring compressor

Cylinder hone

Brake hold-down spring tool

Brake cylinder hone

Clutch plate alignment tool

Tap and die set

To help the owner decide which tools are needed to perform the tasks detailed in this manual, the following tool lists are offered: Maintenance and minor repair, Repair/overhaul and Special. The newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the

Battery post and cable cleaning tool Oil filter wrench Funnel (medium size) Safety goggles

maintenance and minor repair tool kit, which is adequate for the simpler jobs performed on a vehicle. Then, as confidence and experience grow, the owner can tackle more difficult tasks, buying additional tools as they are needed. Eventually the basic kit will be expanded into the repair

Jackstands (2) Drain pan

yourselfer will assemble a tool set complete enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the special category when it is felt that the expense is justified by the frequency of use.

Note: /f basic tune-ups are going to be part of routine maintenance, it will be necessary to purchase a good quality stroboscopic timing light and combination tachometer/dwell meter. Although they are included in the list of special tools, it is mentioned here because they are absolutely necessary for tuning most vehicles properly.

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit

Repair and overhaul tool set

The tools in this list should be considered the minimum required for performance of routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair work. We recommend the purchase of combination wrenches (box-end and open-end combined in one wrench). While more expensive than open end wrenches, they offer the advantages of both types of wrench.

These tools are essential for anyone who plans to perform major repairs and are in addition to those in the maintenance and minor repair tool kit. Included is a comprehensive set of sockets which, though expensive, are invaluable because of their versatility, especially when various extensions and drives are available. We recommend the 1/2-inch drive over the 3/8-inch drive. Although the larger drive is bulky and more expensive, it has the capacity of accepting a very wide range

and overhaul tool set. Over a period of time, the experienced

Combination wrench set (1/4-inch to 1 inch or Adjustable wrench, 8 inch Spark plug wrench with rubber insert Spark plug gap adjusting tool Feeler gauge set Brake bleeder wrench Standard screwdriver (5/16-inch x 6 inch) Phillips screwdriver (No. 2 x 6 inch) Combination pliers — 6 inch Hacksaw and assortment of blades Tire pressure gauge

Grease gun Oil can Fine emery cloth Wire brush

6 mm

do-it-

to 19 mm)

of large sockets. Ideally, however, the mechanic should have a 3/8-inch drive set and a 1/2-inch drive set. Socket set(s) Reversible ratchet Extension — 10 inch Universal joint Torque wrench (same size drive as sockets) Ball peen hammer — 8 ounce Soft-face hammer (plastic/rubber) Standard screwdriver

(1/4-inch x 6 inch)

Standard screwdriver (stubby — 5/16-inch) Phillips screwdriver (No. 3 x 8 inch) Phillips screwdriver (stubby — No. 2)

14

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Pliers Pliers Pliers Pliers

on the other hand, extensive work is planned, it would be a good idea to purchase a modest tool set from one of the large retail chain stores. A set can usually be bought at a substantial savings over the individual tool prices, and they often come with a tool box. As additional tools are needed, add-on sets, individual tools and a larger tool box can be purchased to expand the tool selection. Building a tool set gradually allows the cost of the tools to be spread over a longer period of time and gives the mechanic the freedom to choose only those tools that

— vise grip — lineman’s — needle nose — snap-ring (internal and external)

Cold chisel — 1/2-inch Scribe Scraper (made from flattened copper tubing) Centerpunch Pin punches (1/16, 1/8, 3/16-inch)

Steel rule/straightedge —

will actually be used. Tool stores will often be the only source of some of the special tools

12 inch —

Allen wrench set (1/8 to 3/8-inch or A selection of files

4 mm

to 10 mm)

that are needed, but regardless of where tools are bought, try to avoid cheap ones, especially when buying screwdrivers and sockets, because

Wire brush (large)

they won't last very long. The expense

Jackstands

tools will eventually be greater than the initial cost of quality tools.

(second set)

Jack (scissor or hydraulic type)

involved

in replacing cheap

Care and maintenance of tools

Note: Another too/ which is often useful is an electric drill motor with a chuck capacity of 3/8-inch and a set of good quality drill bits.

Good tools are expensive, so it makes sense to treat them with respect. Keep them clean and in usable condition and store them prop-

erly when not in use. Always wipe off any dirt, grease or metal chips

Special tools The tools in this list include those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturer's instructions. Unless these tools will be used frequently, it is not very economical to purchase many of them. A consideration would be to split the cost and use between yourself and a friend or friends. In addition, most of these tools can be obtained from a tool rental shop on a temporary basis. This list primarily contains only those tools and instruments widely available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer for distribution to dealer service departments. Occasionally, references to the manufacturer's special tools are inluded in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the special tool is offered. However, sometimes there is no alternative to their use. Where this is the case, and the tool cannot be purchased or borrowed, the work should be turned over to the dealer service department

or an automotive

repair shop.

Valve spring compressor Piston ring groove cleaning tool Piston ring compressor Piston ring installation tool Cylinder compression gauge Cylinder ridge reamer Cylinder surfacing hone Cylinder bore gauge Micrometers and/or dial calipers Hydraulic lifter removal tool Balljoint separator Universal-type puller Impact screwdriver

Dial indicator set Stroboscopic timing light (inductive pick-up) Hand operated vacuum/pressure pump Tachometer/dwell meter

Universal electrical multimeter Cable hoist Brake spring removal and installation tools Floor jack

Buying tools For the do-it-yourselfer who is just starting to get involved in vehicle maintenance and repair, there are anumber of options available when purchasing tools. If maintenance and minor repair is the extent of the work to be done, the purchase of individual tools is satisfactory. If,

before putting them away. Never leave tools lying around in the work area. Upon completion of a job, always check closely under the hood for tools that may have been left there so they won’t get lost during a test drive. Some tools, such as screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches and sockets, can be hung on a panel mounted on the garage or workshop wall, while others should be kept in a tool box or tray. Measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc. must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged by weather or impact from other tools. When tools are used with care and stored properly, they will last a very long time. Even with the best of care, though, tools will wear out if used frequently. When a tool is damaged or worn out, replace it. Subsequent jobs will be safer and more enjoyable if you do.

Working facilities Not to be overlooked when discussing tools is the workshop. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some sort of suitable work area is essential. It is understood, and appreciated, that many home mechanics do not have a good workshop or garage available, and end up removing an engine or doing major repairs outside. It is recommended, however, that the overhaul or repair be completed under the cover of a roof. A clean, flat workbench or table of comfortable working height is an absolute necessity. The workbench should be equipped with a vise that has a jaw opening of at least four inches. As mentioned previously, some clean, dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as the lubricants, fluids, cleaning solvents, etc. which will soon become necessary. Sometimes waste oil and fluids, drained from the engine or cooling system during normal maintenance or repairs, present a disposal problem. To avoid pouring them on the ground or into a sewage system, pour the used fluids into large containers, seal them with caps and take them to an authorized disposal site or recycling center. Plastic jugs, such as old antifreeze containers, are ideal for this purpose. Always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean rags available. Old towels are excellent for mopping up spills. Many mechanics use rolls of paper towels for most work because they are readily available and disposable. To help keep the area under the vehicle clean, a large cardboard box can be cut open and flattened to protect the garage or shop floor. Whenever working over a painted surface, such as when leaning over a fender to service something under the hood, always cover it with an old blanket or bedspread to protect the finish. Vinyl covered pads, made especially for this purpose, are available at auto parts stores.

Booster battery (jump) starting Certain precautions must be observed when using a booster battery to jump start a vehicle. a) Before connecting the booster battery, make sure that the ignition switch is in the Off position. b) Turn off the lights, heater and other electrical loads. c) Your eyes should be shielded. Safety goggles are a good idea. d) Make sure that the booster battery is the same voltage as the dead one in the vehicle.

e) The two vehicles MUST f) Make sion) g) If the vent Connect

NOT TOUCH

each other.

sure that the transmission is in Neutral (manual transmisor Park (automatic transmission). booster battery is not a maintenance-free type, remove the caps and lay a cloth over the vent holes. the red jumper cable to the Positive (+) terminals of each

battery (see illustration). Connect one end of the black jumper cable to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery. The other end of this cable should be connected to a good ground on the vehicle to be started, such as a bolt or bracket on the engine block. Use caution to ensure that the cable will not come into contact with the fan, drivebelt or other moving parts of the engine. Start the engine using the booster battery, then with the engine running at idle speed, disconnect the jumper cables in the reverse order of connection.

—

Make the booster battery cable connections in the numerical order shown (note that the negative cable of the booster battery is NOT attached to the negative terminal of the dead battery)

Jacking and towing Jacking Warning: The jack supplied with this vehicle should only be used for raising the vehicle when changing a tire or placing jackstands under the frame. Never work under the vehicle or start the engine while this jack is being used as the only means of support.

causing personal injury. Turn the jack handle clockwise until the wheel clears the ground. Remove the lug nuts and the wheel. Mark the location of the anti-theft lug nut on the wheel before removing it. Pull the wheel off and immediately replace it with the spare.

The vehicle should be on level ground. Place the shift lever in Park,

if you have an automatic transaxle, or First gear if you have a manual transaxle. Block the wheel diagonally opposite the wheel being changed. Set the parking brake. Warning: When one front wheel is

USE APPROPRIATE NOTCH (FRONT OR REAR)

lifted off the ground, neither the automatic nor the manual transaxle will prevent the vehicle from moving and possibly slipping off the jack, even if they have been placed in gear as described above. To prevent inadvertent movement of the vehicle while changing a tire, always set the parking brake and block the wheel diagonally opposite the wheel being changed. Remove the spare tire and jack from stowage. Remove the wheel cover (if so equipped) with the tapered end of the lug nut wrench by inserting and twisting the handle and then prying against the inner wheel cover flange. Loosen, but do not remove, the lug nuts (one-half

turn is sufficient). Caution: /f you’re removing the front wheel, don’t

loosen the front wheel hub nut. Place the scissors-type jack under the side of the vehicle and adjust the jack height with the jack handle so it fits in the notch in the vertical rocker panel flange nearest the wheel to be changed. There is a front and rear jacking notch on each side of the vehicle (see illustration). When lifting the vehicle by any other means, special care must be exercised to avoid damage to the fuel tank, filler neck, exhaust system or underbody. Caution: Do not raise the vehicle with a bumper jack. The bumper system could be damaged. Also, jack slippage may occur,

JACK ENGAGED

IN NOTCH

TIGHTEN LUG NUTS IN SEQUENCE

The jack must be engaged in the notch in the rocker panel

flange nearest the wheei to be changed — there is a front and rear jacking notch on each side of the vehicle

Jacking and towing

16

Replace the lug nuts with the beveled edges facing in. Tighten them snugly and carefully. Don‘t attempt to tighten them completely until

the vehicle is lowered or it could slip off the jack. Turn the jack handle counterclockwise to lower the vehicle. Remove the jack and tighten the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern. Align the wheel cover with the valve stem extension matching the hole in the cover. Install the cover and be sure that it’s snapped in place all the way around.

Stow the tire, jack and wrench. Unblock the wheels.

Anti-theft wheel lug nuts If you have aluminum wheels, they are equipped with anti-theft wheel lug nuts (one per wheel). The key and your registration card are attached to the lug wrench stowed with the spare tire. Don’t lose the registration card. You must send it to the manufacturer, not the dealer, to get a replacement key if yours is lost. To remove or install the anti-theft lug nut, insert the key into the slot in the lug nut (see illustration). Place the lug nut wrench on the key and, while applying pressure on the key, remove or install the lug nut. Mark the anti-theft lug nut location on the wheel before removing it.

Towing If equipped with an automatic transaxle, the vehicle may be towed on all four wheels at speeds less than 35 mph for distances up to 50 miles. Vehicles equipped with a manual transaxle are not limited in distance or speed of towing.

ee ANTI-THEFT LUG NUT

LUG NUT KEY

To remove or install the anti-theft lug nut, insert the key into the slot in the lug nut, then place the lug nut wrench on the key and remove or install the lug nut

Towing equipment specifically designed for this purpose should be used and should be attached to the main structural members of the vehicle and not the bumper or brackets. Safety is a major consideration when towing and all applicable state and local laws must be obeyed. A safety chain system must be used for all towing. While towing, the parking brake should be released and the transaxle

should be in Neutral. The steering must be unlocked (ignition switch in the Off position). Remember that power brakes will not work with the engine off.

Automotive chemicals and lubricants A number of automotive chemicals and use during vehicle maintenance and repair. of products ranging from cleaning solvents and protective sprays for rubber, plastic

lubricants are available for They include a wide variety and degreasers to lubricants and vinyl.

is used for mounting HEI ignition modules where it is essential that heat be transferred away from the module.

Carburetor cleaner and choke cleaner is a strong solvent for gum, varnish and carbon. Most carburetor cleaners leave a dry-type lubricant film which will not harden or gum up. Because of this film it is not

from silicone, RTV is air curing, it seals, bonds, waterproofs, fills surface irregularities, remains flexible, doesn't shrink, is relatively easy to

recommended

for use on electrical components.

Brake system cleaner is used to remove grease and brake fluid from the brake system where clean surfaces are absolutely necessary. It leaves no residue and often eliminates brake squeal caused by contaminants. Electrical cleaner removes oxidation, corrosion and carbon deposits from electrical contacts, restoring full current flow. It can also be used to clean spark plugs, carburetor jets, voltage regulators and other parts where an oil-free surface is desired. Demoisturants remove water and moisture from electrical components such as alternators, voltage regulators, electrical connectors and fuse blocks. It is non-conductive, non-corrosive and non-flammable. Degreasers are heavy-duty solvents used to remove grease from the outside of the engine and from chassis components. They can be sprayed or brushed on, and, depending on the type, are rinsed off either with water or solvent.

Lubricants Motor oil is the lubricant formulated for use in engines. It normally contains a wide variety of additives to prevent corrosion and reduce foaming and wear. Motor oil comes in various weights (viscosity ratings) from 5 to 80. The recommended weight of the oil depends on the season, temperature and the demands on the engine. Light oil is used in cold climates and under light load conditions. Heavy oil is used in hot climates and where high loads are encountered. Multiviscosity oils are designed to have characteristics of both light and

heavy oils and are available in a number of weights from 5W-20 to 20W-50. Gear oil is designed to be used in differentials, manual transaxles and other areas where high-temperature lubrication is required. Chassis and wheel bearing grease is a heavy grease used where increased loads and friction are encountered, such as for wheel bearings, balljoints, tie rod ends and universal joints. High temperature wheel bearing grease is designed to withstand the extreme temperatures encountered by wheel bearings in disc brake equipped vehicles. It usually contains molybdenun disulfide (moly), which is a dry-type lubricant. White grease is a heavy grease for metal to metal applications where water is a problem. White grease stays soft under both low and high temperatures (usually from —100°F to +190°F), and will not wash off or dilute in the presence of water. Assembly lube is a special extreme pressure lubricant, usually containing moly, used to lubricate high-load parts such as main and rod

bearings

and

Sealants TV sealant is one of the most widely used gasket compounds. Made

Cleaners

cam

lobes for initial start-up

of a new

engine. The

assembly lube lubricates the parts without being squeezed out or washed away until the engine oiling system begins to function. Silicone lubricants are used to protect rubber, plastic, vinyl and nylon

parts. Graphite lubricants are used where oils cannot be used due to contamination problems, such as in locks. The dry graphite will lubricate metal parts while remaining uncontaminated by dirt, water, oil or acids. It is electrically conductive and will not foul electrical contacts in locks

such as the ignition switch. Moly penetrants loosen and lubricate frozen, rusted and corroded fasteners and prevent future rusting or freezing. Heat-sink grease is a special electrically non-conductive grease that

remove, and is used as a suppiementary sealer with almost all.low and medium temperature gaskets. : Anaerobic sealant is much like RTV in that it can be used either to

seal gaskets or to form gaskets by itself. It remains flexible, is solvent resistant and fills surface imperfections. The difference between an anaerobic sealant and an RTV-type sealant is in the curing. RTV cures when exposed to air, while an anaerobic sealant cures only in the absence of air. This means that an anaerobic sealant cures only after the assembly of parts, sealing them together. Thread and pipe sealant is used for sealing hydraulic and pneumatic fittings and vacuum lines. It is usually made from a teflon compound, and comes in a spray, a paint-on liquid and as a wrap-around tape.

Chemicals Anti-seize compound prevents seizing, galling, cold welding, rust and corrosion in fasteners. High temperature anti-seize, usually made with copper and graphite lubricants, is used for exhaust system and manifold bolts. Anaerobic locking compounds are used to keep fasteners from vibrating or working loose, and cure only after installation, in the absence of air. Medium strength locking compound is used for small nuts, bolts and screws that you expect to be removing later. High strength locking compound is for large nuts, bolts and studs which you don’t intend to be removing on a regular basis. Oil additives range from viscosity index improvers to chemical treatments that claim to reduce internal engine friction. It should be noted that most oil manufacturers caution against using additives with their oils. Gas additives perform several functions, depending on their chemical makeup. They usually contain solvents that help dissolve gum and varnish that build up on carburetor and intake parts. They also serve to break down carbon deposits that form on the inside surfaces of the combustion chambers. Some additives contain upper cylinder lubricants for valves and piston rings, and others chemicals to remove condensation from the gas tank.

Miscellaneous Brake fluid is specially formulated hydraulic fluid that can withstand the heat and pressure encountered in brake systems. Care must be taken that this fluid does not come in contact with painted surfaces or plastics. An opened container should always be resealed to prevent contamination by water or dirt. Weatherstrip adhesive is used to bond weatherstripping around doors, windows and trunk lids. It is sometimes used to attach trim pieces. Undercoating is a petroleum-based tar-like substance that is designed to protect metal surfaces on the underside of the vehicle from corrosion. It also acts as a sound-deadening agent by insulating the bottom of the vehicle. Waxes andpolishes are used to help protect painted and plated surfaces from tne weather. Different types of paint may require the use of different types of wax and polish. Some polishes utilize a chemical or abrasive cleaner to help remove the top layer of oxidized (dull) paint on older vehicles. In recent years many non-wax polishes that contain a wide variety of chemicals such as polymers and silicones have been

introduced. These non-wax polishes are usually easier to apply and last longer than conventional waxes and polishes.

Safety first! Regardless of how enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job at hand, take the time to ensure that your safety is not jeopardized. A moment's lack of attention can result in an accident, as can failure to observe certain simple safety precautions. The possibility of an accident will always exist, and the following points should not be considered a comprehensive list of all dangers. Rather, they are intended to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safety conscious approach to all work you carry out on your vehicle.

Fire Remember at all times that gasoline is highly flammable. Never smoke or have any kind of open flame around when working on a vehicle. But the risk does not end there. A spark caused by an electrical short circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, or even by static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite gasoline vapors, which in a confined space are highly explosive. Do not, under any circumstances, use gasoline for cleaning parts. Use an

approved safety solvent. Always disconnect the battery ground (—) cable at the battery before

Essential DOs and DON’Ts DON'T rely on a jack when working under the vehicle. Always use approved jackstands to support the weight of the vehicle and place them under the recommended lift or support points. DON'T attempt to loosen extremely tight fasteners (i.e. wheel lug nuts) while the vehicle is on a jack — it may fall. DON'T start the engine without first making sure that the transmission is in Neutral (or Park where applicable) and the parking brake is set. DON’T remove the radiator cap from a hot cooling system — let it cool or cover it with a cloth and release the pressure gradually. DON'T attempt to drain the engine oil until you are sure it has cooled to the point that it will not burn you. DON’T touch any part of the engine or exhaust system until it has cooled sufficiently to avoid burns. DON'T siphon toxic liquids such as gasoline, antifreeze and brake fluid by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin. DON'T inhale brake lining dust — it is potentially hazardous (see Asbestos below) DON'T allow spilled oil or grease to remain on the floor — wipe it up before someone slips on it. DON'T use loose fitting wrenches or other tools which may slip and Cause injury. DON'T push on wrenches when loosening or tightening nuts or bolts. Always try to pull the wrench toward you. If the situation calls for pushing the wrench away, push with an open hand to avoid scraped knuckles if the wrench should slip. DON'T attempt to lift a heavy component alone — get someone to help you. DON'T rush or take unsafe shortcuts to finish a job. DON'T allow children or animals in or around the vehicle while you are working on it. DO wear eye protection when using power tools such as a drill, sander, bench grinder, etc. and when working under a vehicle. DO keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving

parts. DO make sure that any hoist used has a safe working load rating adequate for the job. DO get someone to check on you periodically when working alone on a vehicle.

DO carry out work in a logical sequence and make sure that everything is correctly assembled and tightened. DO keep chemicals and fluids tightly capped and out of the reach of children and pets. DO remember that your vehicle’s safety affects that of yourself and others. If in doubt on any point, get professional advice.

working on any part of the fuel system or electrical system. Never risk spilling fuel on a hot engine or exhaust component. It is strongly recommended that a fire extinguisher suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires be kept handy in the garage or workshop at all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with water.

Fumes Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconsciousness and even death if inhaled to any extent. Gasoline vapor falls into this category, as do the vapors from some cleaning solvents. Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated

area. When

using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions on the container carefully. Never use materials from unmarked containers. Never run the engine in an enclosed space, such as a garage. Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide, which is extremely poisonous. If you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air, or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the work area. If you are fortunate enough to have the use of an inspection pit, never drain or pour gasoline and never run the engine while the vehicle is over the pit. The fumes, being heavier than air, will concentrate in the pit with possibly lethal results.

The battery Never create a spark or allow a bare light bulb near a battery. They normally give off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive. Always disconnect the battery ground (—) cable at the battery before working on the fuel or electrical systems. If possible, loosen the filler caps or cover when charging the battery from an external source (this does not apply to sealed or maintenancefree batteries). Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery may burst. Take care when adding water to a non maintenance-free battery and when carrying a battery. The electrolyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be allowed to contact clothing or skin. Always wear eye protection when cleaning the battery to prevent the caustic deposits from entering your eyes.

Household current When using an electric power tool, inspection light, etc., which operates on household current, always make sure that the tool is correctly connected to its plug and that, where necessary, it is properly grounded. Do not use such items in damp conditions and, again, do not create a spark or apply excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel

vapor.

Asbestos Certain friction, insulating, sealing, and other products

Secondary ignition system — such as

brake linings, brake bands, clutch linings, torque converters, gaskets, etc. — contain asbestos. Extreme care must be taken to avoid inhalation of dust from such products since it is hazardous to health. \f in doubt, assume that they do contain asbestos.

voltage

A severe electric shock can result from touching certain parts ignition system (such as the spark plug wires) when the engine ning or being cranked, particularly if components are damp or the tion is defective. In the case of an electronic ignition system, the dary system voltage is much higher and could prove fatal.

of the is runinsulasecon-

Conversion

factors

Length (distance) Inches (in) Feet (ft)

25.4 0.305 XX

®

||

SS

\

\

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eee

ZS

3

| |

NO}

ye Se VIEW A

Nt ~)7P 4 oe

By;

a Mn

CLIP

See

:

DOOR STRAINER SHIELD

15.2b

An exploded view of the mirror assembly on a four-door model

BEZEL ASSEMBLY

Chapter 11 15

Outside mirror —

illustration).

1 Remove the door trim panel (refer to Section 12). 2 Remove the mirror mounting stud nuts (see illustrations) and detach the mirror and adjustment cable assembly from the door. Be sure to note the routing of the adjustment cable before removing the mirror. 3 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Dashboard trim panels —

251

4 Remove the two center finish panel-to-support bracket rear screws (see illustration). 5 Remove the front screw and detach the center finish panel (see

removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 15.2a and 15.2b

16

Body

6 Remove the front consolette screws (see illustration). 7 Remove the rear consolette-to-support bracket screws (see illustration) and detach the consolette assembly.

removal and installation

For information and illustrations applicable to the dashboard trim panels, refer to Sections 7, 15 and 17 in Chapter 12.

17

Center console

—

removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 17.3, 17.4, 17.5, 17.6, 17.7, 17.8a, 17.8b and 17.10

Consolette 1 2 3

Detach the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. Remove the free standing armrest, if so equipped. Remove the : two rear litter container screws (see illustration) :

and detach the litter container.

17.4

...

then remove the two screws

rear of the center finish panel

17.6

(arrows) from the

.

17.3

17.5

immediately behind the gear shift lever bezel

...

the two screws from the litter container and lift it out, ...

and the screw from the front of the center

finish panel to detach the panel

.

Remove the two screws from the consolette

Remove

17.7

Remove the two screws (arrows) from the rear of

the consolette and lift it out

252

Chapter 11

LITTER

a

SCREW

CONTAINER

Body

CENTER FINISH

PANEL

a CONSOLETTE ASSEMBLY

SCREW

17.8a Refer to this exploded view of the consolette during installation

qe)

Ld °

SUPPORT peat BRACKET (WITH ARMREST

=

oye

ONLY)

FLOOR ee

CONSOLE ASSEMBLY

ARMREST ASSEMBLY

INSULATOR

17.8b Refer to this exploded view of the armrest during installation

CARPET

ASSEMBLY

SUPPORT ASSEMBLY

—

8 Installation is the reverse of removal. Refer to the accompanying exploded views (see illustrations) during reassembly.

Console 9

Detach the cable from the negative terminal of the battery.

19 Pry up the bottom edge of the front finish panel, pull up and back to disengage the two tabs at the top front edge. 20 Disconnect the cigar lighter wires and remove the finish panel. 21 Remove the four graphic display mounting plate screws. Unplug the electrical connectors and remove the graphic display.

10 Remove the two console-to-front support bracket screws (see illustration). 11 Remove the two console-to-rear support bracket screws. 12 Open the console door and remove the two console-to-floor bracket

22 Lift the console up to clear the shift lever and knob and remove the console. 23 Installation is the reverse of removal.

screws. 13 Remove the free standing armrest, if so equipped. 14 Pull the parking brake lever all the way to the rear.

SS ee ee

15 Remove the three center finish panel screws. lift the panel up and back, disconnect all wires and remove the finish panel. 16 Remove one screw and loosen the other screw from the crossmember in front of the brake lever. Rotate the crossmember forward and out of the way. 17 Remove the two center console-to-floor screws. 18 Remove the ash receptacle.

18 Seats — removal and installation pS EE eh Refer to illustrations

18.1,

ee

eee

eee

eT

18.7 and 18.12

Front seats 1 Manual seat tracks are attached to the floor pan by studs with nut and washer assemblies and screws (washer head type). Nuts and screws retaining the seat tracks are removed from inside the vehicle

(see illustration).

253

wo CENTER PANEL

ASH RECEPTACLE

—

“e Ss

=

FRONT FINISH PANEL

WARNING INDICATOR PANEL

\s\

FINISH

CONSOLE COMPARTMENT DOOR

CONSOLE ASSEMBLY

SWITCH CONNECTOR Sg

SCREW —

gee SS

7

=

CONSOLE

COMPARTMENT

[1

i

SCREW

FRONT SUPPORT BRACKET SUPPORT BRACKET

REAR SUPPORT BRACKET

FLOOR

BRACKET BEFORE INSTALLING CONSOLE PUT BRAKE IN SET POSITION. CONSOLE WITHOUT CENTER ARMREST SHOWN CONSOLE WITH CENTER ARMREST TYPICAL

17.10

Refer to this exploded view of the console during removal and installation

SHIELD (MID AND HIGH SERIES ONLY)

oy

SEAT TRACK ASSEMBLY

NUT AND WASHER

STUD SEAT TRACK ASSEMBLY

SCREW

LOW SERIES DRIVER SEAT SHOWN PASSENGER SEAT TYPICAL

18.1

ASSIST SPRING

SHIELD

An exploded view of the seat track assembly

ONLY

SHIELD

254

Chapter 11

Body

REAR SEAT CUSHION ASSEMBLY

WIRE MUST BE IN RETAINER

REAR SEAT CUSHION ASSEMBLY

RETAINER

REAR SEAT BACK REST

WIRE MUST BE IN BRACKET REAR SEAT BACK REST

REAR SEAT BELT ASSEMBLY

REAR SEAT BELT ASSEMBLY

18.12

Rear seat back mounting details

2 Remove the seat track mounting screws, plastic shields and nuts and washers from inside the vehicle. Then lift the seat and track assembly out of the vehicle. 3 Place the seat and track assemblies on a clean work surface. 4 Remove the seat track-to-seat cushion screws and detach the seat cushion and assist spring, if so equipped, from the tracks.

5 If the seat tracks are being replaced, transfer the assist springs and spacers (if any) to the new track assembly. 6

Installation is the reverse of removal.

Rear seat Cushion 7 Apply knee pressure to the lower portion of the rear seat cushion, then push toward the rear of the vehicle to disengage the seat cushion

from the retainers (see illustration). 8 Place the seat cushion assembly in position. 9 Place the seatbelts on top of the cushion. 10 Apply knee pressure to the lower portion of the seat cushion to hook the wire in the retainer. Seat back 11 Remove the rear seat cushion as described above. 12 Remove the seatbelt assembly bolts (see illustration). 13 Grasp the seat back assembly at the bottom and lift up to disengage the hanger wire from the retainers. 14 Place the seat back in position in the vehicle with the hanger wires engaged in the retainers (see illustration 18.12). 15 Install the seatbelt assemblies and tighten the bolts securely. 16 Install the rear seat cushion.

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

Refer to Chapter 13 for information applicable to 1988 and later models Contents

BUlbireplacement dans: foe 40h slasher eter cee ton, scar ete hed ecntars Circuit breakers — general information ...................0-5 Connectors — general information ................2.0+eee aes Cruise control — general information ..................00-0e Electrical troubleshooting — general information ............... Fuses: — generalinformationiwa .Savistes 6 oe Sass ee eer seee Fusible links — general information ..................0..0055 Generabinformatiomie nick Views stack oeyoeeetels eie b a eee Hazard/turn signal flashers and chime — replacement .......... Headlight control switch and rheostat— check and replacement .. Headlights adjustment 2.0.0. /223 5 Abas Headlights — removal and installation ....................055 Heater electrical components — check and replacement ........ Horn=removal and installation ....... 20.00.26 5. ae.

Ignition switch and key lock cylinder—check andreplacement ... nstrument panel and clock — removal and installation .......... Neutral start switch — check adjustment and replacement ....... Power door lock system — general information ................ Power windows — general information..................-..-Radio and speakers — removal and installation................ Radio antenna— check and replacement ................-.-Rear window defogger and switch — check, cepalrandireplacement= ke: os es. aie tere aaah nett antec eee Turn signal/hazard/flash-to-pass/dimmer switch (multi-function switch) — check and replacement............. Windshield wiper/washer switch and motor — description, check and component replacement ...............-...---Wiring diagrams — general information ...........-.......08-

14 6 3 22 2 4 5 1 10 11 13 12 19 20

8 ay 21 23 24 15 16

18 7 9 25

EEE EEE ED

Specifications i

Blower motor current draw EGRVURI

aie eee

NE CICITINE te eet

eee

cen

nt

te

itn t nsale ie tals cry ws yal «)“ates

Ghat tied pds. wale oe A eee pares

[BIASRy? acid dig clade de lenGO te Cc

aC ueORC-EROsENLceoMeO ORCC

CCT

Sameer are

meter

Torque specifications Neutralcstart Switci DOItS 2

6.

seer sll eee a pcs oars

ED

1

General information

SI

eae

er

2.0 amps/5.5 volts 3.5 amps/8.0 volts 7.0 amps/12.9 volts Ft-lbs

Nm

7to9

9 to 12

the engine electrical system components (battery, alternator, distributor and starter motor), see Chapter 5.

ee

Warning: To prevent electrical shorts, fires and injury, always disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery before checking, repairing or replacing electrical system components.

2

The chassis electrical system of this vehicle is a 12-volt, negative ground type. Power for the lights and all electrical accessories is supplied by a lead/acid-type battery which is charged by the alternator. This chapter covers repair and service procedures for various chassis (non-engine related) electrical components. For information regarding

switches, relays, motors, fuses, fusible links or circuit breakers, etc. related to that component and the wiring and connectors that link the component to both the battery and the chassis. To help you pinpoint an electrical circuit problem, wiring diagrams are included at the end of this book.

Electrical troubleshooting

—

general information

A typical electrical circuit consists of an electrical component, any

256 SPREAD

PET a ieee Ce reo Cre WORIVER it THE LOCKING TAB AND TWIST, GRASP THE

THE LOCKING

TABS, GRASP

PLACE A THUMB UNDER THE LOCKING TAB AND PUSH UP. GRASP THE WIRES AND PULL TO SEPARATE.

THE WIRES

WITH BOTH HANDS AND PULL THE CONNECTOR APART.

WIRES AND PULL TO SEPARATE.

FLAT BLADED SCREWDRIVER

ud LOCKING

TAB ONLY

ON ONE SIDE

LOCKING TAB ONLY ON ONE SIDE GRASP THE WIRES WITH BOTH HANDS AND PULL THE CONNECTOR APART

RELEASE LOCKING TAB WITH SMALL SCREW DRIVER

IGNITION SWITCH CONNECTOR

N| TO MULTIFUNCTION SWITCH

HAZARD SWITCH

LOCKING TABS ARE ON BOTH SIDES OF THE CONNECTOR GNITION SWITCH

VIEW B INSERT A FLAT BLADED THE LOCKING TAB AND WIRES AND PULL UNTIL IS ON THE RAMP. TURN OVER AND REPEAT THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE GRASP THE WIRES AND

SCREWDRIVER IN TWIST. GRASP THE THE LOCKING TAB THE CONNECTOR PROCEDURE ON THE CONNECTOR. THEN PULL APART.

KEY

WARNING

SWITCH

SWITCH

RELEASE LOCKING TAB WITR SMALL SCREW DRIVER

3.1

Female

3.2

Various types of locking electrical connectors are employed throughout the vehicle — of the most common

here are some

Male

To distinguish between male and female halves of a connector, look at the terminal pins

3.3

When checking continuity or voltage with a circuit testing device, insert the test probe from the wire

harness side

~

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

ae ee i

257 eG

Wiring color code

Finding an open circuit

When referring to the wiring diagrams, use the following alphabetical code to determine the color of the wires you are checking: B Black LG Light green T Tan BR Brown N Natural W White DB Dark blue O Orange Y Yellow

When diagnosing for possible open circuits it is often difficult to locate them by sight because oxidation or terminal misalignment are hidden

DG Dark green GY Gray© LB Light blue

P Purple PK Pink R Red

(H) Hash* (D) Dot*

Note: 7he presence of a tracer on the wire is indicated by a secondary color followed by a “‘H” for hash or aD” for dot. A stripe is understood if no letter follows.

Before tackling any troublesome electrical circuit, first study the appropriate wiring diagrams to get a complete understanding of what makes up that individual circuit. Trouble spots, for instance, can often be isolated by noting if other components related to that circuit are operating properly. If several components or circuits fail at one time, chances are the problem is in a fuse or ground connection because several circuits are often routed through the same fuse and ground connections. Electrical problems usually stem from simple causes such as loose or corroded connectors, a blown fuse, a melted fusible link or a bad relay. Visually inspect the condition of all fuses, wires and connectors in a problem circuit before troubleshooting it. The basic tools needed for electrical troubleshooting include a circuit tester, a high impedance (10 K-ohm) digital voltmeter, a continuity tester and a jumper wire with an inline circuit breaker for bypassing electrical components. Before attempting to locate or define a problem with electrical test instruments, use the wiring diagrams to decide where to make the necessary connections.

Voltage checks Perform a voltage check first when a circuit is not functioning properly. Connect one lead of a circuit tester to either the negative battery terminal or a known good ground. Connect the other lead to a connector in the circuit being tested, preferably nearest to the battery or fuse. If the bulb of the tester lights up, voltage is present, which means that the part of the circuit between the connector and the battery is problem free. Continue checking the rest of the circuit in the same fashion. When you reach a point at which no voltage is present, the problem

lies between that point and the last test point with voltage. Most of the time the problem can be traced to a loose connection. Note: Keep in mind that some circuits receive voltage only when the ignition key is in the Accessory or Run position.

by the connectors. Merely wiggling a connector on a sensor or in the wiring harness may correct the open circuit condition. Remember this

if an open circuit is indicated when troubleshooting a circuit. Intermittent problems may also be caused by oxidized or loose connections. Electrical troubleshooting is simple if you keep in mind that all electrical circuits are basically electricity running from the battery, through the wires, switches, relays, fuses and fusible links to each electrical component (light bulb, motor, etc.) and then to ground, from which

it is passed back to the battery. Any electrical problem is an interruption in the flow of electricity to and from the battery.

3

Connectors

— general information

Refer to illustrations 3.1, 3.2 and 3.3

Always release the lock lever{s) before attempting to unplug inline type connectors. There are a variety of lock lever configurations (see illustration). Although nothing more than a finger is usually necessary to pry lock levers open, a small pocket screwdriver is effective for hardto-release levers. Once the lock levers are released, try to pull on the connectors themselves, not the wires, when unplugging two connector halves (there are times, however, when this is not possible — use good judgment). It is usually necessary to know which side, male or female, of the connector you're checking. Male connectors are easily distinguished from females by the shape of their internal pins (see illustration). When checking continuity or voltage with a circuit tester, insertion of the test probe into the receptacle may open the fitting to the connector and result in poor contact. Instead, insert the test probe from

the wire harness side of the connector (see illustration).

4

Fuses — general information

Refer to illustrations 4.1, 4.2 and 4.5

The electrical circuits of this vehicle are protected by a combination of fuses, fusible links and circuit breakers. The fuse panel is located in the left end of the dashboard above the left side kick panel (see illustration).

Finding a short circuit One method of finding shorts in a circuit is to remove the fuse and connect a test light or voltmeter in its place. There should be no voltage

present in the circuit. Move the wiring harness from side-to-side while watching the test light. If the bulb goes on, there is a short to ground somewhere in that area, probably where the insulation has rubbed through. The same test can be performed on each component in the circuit, even a switch.

Ground check Perform a ground test to check whether a component is properly grounded. Disconnect the battery and connect one lead of a selfpowered test light, known as a continuity tester, to a known good ground. Connect the other lead to the wire or ground connection being tested. If the bulb goes on, the ground is good. If the bulb does not go on, the ground is not good.

Continuity check A continuity check determines if there are any breaks in a circuit — if it is conducting electricity properly. With the circuit off (no power in the circuit), a self-powered continuity tester can be used to check the circuit. Connect the test leads to both ends of the circuit, and if the test light comes on the circuit is passing current properly. If the light doesn’t come on, there is a break somewhere in the circuit. The same procedure can be used to test a switch, by connecting the continuity tester to the power in and power out sides of the switch. With the switch turned on, the test light should come on.

4.1.

The fuse panel is located underneath the left end of the dashboard

258

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

FUSE PANEL JUNCTION PART OF 14401 WIRING

EMERGENCY FLASHER

FRONT OF VEHICLE

4.2

Typical Tempo/Topaz fuse panel (always check the fuse panel guide in your owner’s manual when possible)

Stoplights, hazard warning lights (15 amp fuse) Windshield wiper, windshield washer pump, interval wiper, low washer fluid LED

Nom

(6 amp circuit breaker) Not used Taillights, parking lights, side marker lights, cluster illumination light, license light (15 amp fuse) Turn signal lights, back-up lights (15 amp fuse) RK QQ Heated backlight relay, diagnostic warning module, power window relay, speed contro/ module, deck lid release, illuminated entry module, clock (20 amp fuse) Not used MONCourtesy lights, key warning buzzer, clock, glove compartment light, engine compartment light (15 amp fuse)

9 Blower motor (30 amp fuse) 10 Flash-to-pass (20 amp fuse) 11 Radio, tape player, premium sound with one amplifier, graphic equalizer (15 amp fuse) 712 713

Power seats, power door locks (20 amp circuit breaker) Illumination of instrument cluster, radio, climate control,

14 15

ashtray, diagnostic module (5 amp fuse) Spare Rear lights with graphic display (10 amp fuse)

16

Horn, front cigar lighter (20 amp fuse)

17 18

AC clutch, engine cooling fan controller (15 amp fuse) Warning indicator lights, low fuel module, dual timer buzzer, anti-diesel solenoid, upshift indicator light, WOT

cutout relay, carburetor bowl vent solenoid (10 amp fuse)

‘ The fuse block is equipped with miniaturized fuses because their compact dimensions and convenient blade-type terminal design allow fingertip removal and installation. Each fuse protects one or more circuits. The protected circuit is identified on the face of the fuse panel cover above each fuse. A fuse guide is included here (see illustration) but consult your owner’s manual — it will have the most accurate guide for your vehicle. If an electrical component fails, always check the fuse first. A blown fuse, which is nothing more than a broken element, is easily identified through the clear plastic body. Visually inspect the element for evidence of damage. If a continuity check is called for, the blade terminal tips are exposed in the fuse body. Remove and insert fuses straight in and out without twisting. Twisting could force the terminals open too far, resulting in a bad connection. Be sure to replace blown fuses with the correct type and amp rating. Fuses of different ratings are physically interchangeable, but replacing a fuse with one of a higher or lower value than specified is not recommended. Each electrical circuit needs a specific amount of protection. The amperage value of each fuse is usually molded into the fuse body. Different colors are also used to denote fuses of various amperage values. The accompanying color code (see illustration) shows common amperage values and their corresponding colors. Caution: A/ways turn off all electrical components and the ignition switch before replacing a fuse. Never bypass a fuse with pieces of metal or foil. Serious damage to the electrical system could result. If the replacement fuse immediately fails, do not replace it again until the cause of the problem is isolated and corrected. In most cases, this will be a short circuit in the wiring caused by a broken or deteriorated

wire.

Fuse Value Amps

5 15

20

Color Code

Tan

Light Blue

Light Green 4.5

5

Each fuse amp value has a corresponding color code

Fusible links — general information

eee ees

Refer to illustrations 5.1a and §.1b

Some circuits are protected by fusible links. These links are used in circuits which are not ordinarily fused, such as the ignition circuit. If a circuit protected by a fusible link becomes inoperative, inspect for a blown fusible link. Although fusible links appear to be of heavier gauge than the wire they are protecting, their appearance is due to thicker insulation . All fusible links are four wire gauges smaller than the wire they are designed to protect. The location of the fusible links on your particular vehicle can be determined by referring to the wiring diagrams at the end of this Chapter.

259 REMOVE EXISTING VINYL TUBE SHIELDING REINSTALL OVER FUSE LINK BEFORE CRIMPING FUSE LINK TO WIRE ENDS

TAPE

TAPE OR STRAP

TYPICAL REPAIR USING THE SPECIAL#17 GA. (9.00" LONG-YELLOW) FUSE LINK REQUIRED CIRCUITS (2) #687E AND#261A LOCATED IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT

FUSE

TYPICAL

REPAIR

FOR ANY

FOR THE AIR/COND.

LINK

TAPE OR STRAP

IN-LINE FUSE LINK USING THE SPECIFIED GAUGE

FUSE LINK FOR THE SPECIFIED

CIRCUIT

TAPE

OARS(peers

ae) Cy ke TYPICAL

REPAIR USING THE EYELET TERMINAL

FUSE LINK OF THE SPECIFIED GAUGE

FOR ATTACHMENT

TO ACIRCUIT WIRE END

TAPE

(3) FUSE LINKS

TYPICAL REPAIR ATTACHING THREE LIGHT GAUGE FUSE LINKS TO A SINGLE HEAVY GAUGE FEED WIRE

D3AZ-14488-Y BUTT CONNECTOR FOR 10 OR 12 GA. WIRE

TAPE

LIGHT GAUGE

WIRE

#10 OR 12 GA. WIRE

— D3AZ-14488-Z

BUTT

FOR#14 OR

16 WIRE

(s)

CONNECTOR

EF —

FUSIBLE

=

LINK REPAIR PROCEDURE

5.1a

Fusible link servicing procedures

260

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

Fusible links cannot be repaired. If you must replace one, make sure that the new fusible link is a duplicate of the one removed with respect to gauge, length and insulation. Original and Ford replacement fusible links have insulation that is flame proof. Do not fabricate a fusible link from ordinary wire — the insulation may not be flame proof. Warning: Do not mistake a resistor wire for a fusible link. The resistor wire is generally longer and is identified by a ‘Resistor — don’t cut or splice’’ warning.

WIRING ASSEMBLY — FUSE LINK (WITH INSULATION STRIPPED BOTH ENDS)

eS REESE sare amtceme om ,

Charging system fusible link 1 To replace the fusible link in the charging system, follows:

proceed

as

a) b)

Disconnect the negative cable at the battery. Disconnect the fusible link from the wiring harness or the fusible link eyelet terminal from the battery terminal of the starter relay (on some vehicle applications, the fusible link is looped outside the wire harness). c) Cut the damaged fusible link and the splices from the wires to which it is attached. Disconnect the feed wire part of the wiring and cut out the damaged portion as closely as possible behind the splice in the harness. If the fusible link wire insulation is burned or opened, disconnect the feed as close as possible behind the splice in the harness. If the damaged fusible link is between two splices (the weld points in the harness), cut out the damaged

d) e)

f)

g)

h)

i) j)

service

any

other

blown

fusible

link,

use

the

D3AZ—14A526-J

#16 GA. WIRE — 9.00" + .50 LENGTH (ORANGE INSULATION) AS REQ'D.

D3AZ—14A526-K

#17 GA. WIRE — 9.00” + .50 LENGTH (YELLOW INSULATION) AS REQ'D. (SPECIAL USED WITH AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM)

D3AZ—14A526-L

#18 GA. WIRE — 9.00” = .50 LENGTH (RED INSULATION) AS REQ’D,

D3AZ—14A526-M

#20 GA. WIRE — 9.00" = .50 LENGTH (BLUE INSULATION) AS REQ'D.

ore

portion as close as possible to the weld points. Strip the insulation back approximately 1/2-inch. Splice and solder the new fusible link to the wires from which the old link was cut. Use rosin core solder at each end of the new link to obtain a good solder joint. Wrap the splices completely with vinyl electrical tape around the soldered joint. No wires should be exposed (see illustration). Securely connect the eyelet terminals (if any) to the battery stud on the starter relay. Note: Some fusible links (see illustration) have an eyelet terminal for a 5/16-inch stud on one end. When the terminal is not required, use one of the fusible links shown with the insulation stripped from both ends. Install the repaired wiring as before, using existing clips, if provided. Connect the battery ground cable. Test the circuit for proper operation.

To

#14 GA. WIRE — 9.00” > (GREEN INSULATION)

#14 GA. WIRE — 9.00” + .50 LENGTH

D3AZ—14A526-E

#16 GA. WIRE — 9.00” = .50 LENGTH (ORANGE INSULATION) AS REQ'D.

D3AZ— 14A526-F

#18 GA. WIRE — 9.00" + .50 LENGTH (RED INSULATION) AS REQ’D.

D3AZ—14A526-G

#20 GA. WIRE — 9.00" + .50 LENGTH (BLUE INSULATION) AS REQ'D.

(GREEN INSULATION) AS REQ'D.

BUTT CONNECTOR — WIRING SPLICE

following

Disconnect the negative battery cable. Cut the damaged fusible link from the wiring harness and discard it. If the fusible link is one of three circuits fed by a single wire, cut it out of the harness at each splice and discard it. d) Identify and procure the proper fusible link and butt connectors for attaching the fusible link to the harness. 3 To service any fusible link in a three-link group with one feed: a) After cutting the open link out of the harness, cut each of the remaining undamaged fusible links close to the feed wire weld. b) Strip approximately 1/2-inch of insulation from the detached ends of the two good fusible links. Insert two wire ends into one end of a Ford butt connector and carefully push one stripped end of the replacement fusible link into the same end of the butt connector and crimp all three firmly together (see illustration 5.1a). Note: Be very careful when fitting the three fusible links into the butt connector — the internal diameter is a snug fit for three wires. Be sure to use a proper crimping tool. Pliers, side cutters, etc. will not apply the proper crimp to retain the wires. c) After crimping the butt connector to the three fusible links, cut the weld portion from the feed wire and strip about 1/2-inch of insulation from the cut end. Insert the stripped end into the open end of the butt connector and crimp very firmly. d) To attach the remaining end of the replacement fusible link, strip about 1/2-inch of insulation from the wire end of the circuit from which the blown fusible link was removed and firmly crimp a butt connector to the stripped wire. Insert the end of the replacement link into the other end of the butt connector and crimp firmly.

ea eee ar eS /

D3AZ—14A526-D

D3AZ—14488-Y

FOR #10 AND 12 GA. WIRE (LOAD CIRCUIT) AS REQ'D

D3AZ—14488-Z

FOR #14 AND 16 GA. WIRE (LOAD CIRCUIT) AS REQ’D.

procedure: a) Determine which circuit is damaged, its location and the cause of the open fusible link. If the damaged fusible link is one of three fed by a common 10 or 12 gauge feed wire, determine the specific affected circuit.

b) c)

50 LENGTH

WIRING ASSEMBLY — FUSE LINK (WITH EYELET TERMINAL AND ONE END STRIPPED)

All other fusible links 2

D3AZ—14A526-H

5.1b Fusible link end connector types

e)

Using rosin core solder with a consistency of 60 per cent tin and 40 per cent lead, solder the connectors and the wires at the repairs and insulate with electrical tape. 4 Toreplace any fusible link on a single circuit in a harness, cut out the damaged portion, strip about 1/2-inch of insulation from the two wire ends and attach the appropriate replacement fusible link to the stripped wire ends with two proper size butt connectors. Solder the connectors and wires and insulate with tape. 5 To service any fusible link which has an eyelet terminal on one end (like the charging circuit), cut off the open fusible link behind the weld, strip about 1/2-inch of insulation from the cut end and attach the appropriate new eyelet fusible link to the cut stripped wire with an appropriate size butt connector. Solder the connectors and wires at the point of service and insulate with tape. 6 Connect the cable to the negative terminal of the battery. 7 Test the system for proper operation.

a 6

Circuit breakers —

a

eee

general information

i

re

ae

Circuit breakers protect accessories such as power windows, power door locks, the windshield wiper, windshield wiper pump, interval wiper, low washer fluid, etc. Circuit breakers are located in the fuse box. Refer to the fuse panel guide in Section 4 and the fuse panel guide in your owner’s manual for the location of the circuit breakers used

in your vehicle.

‘

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

261

Continuity test 2- Always check the fuse first. If it’s blown, remove the wire harness from the switch (see illustration 7.22), then test continuity between LOW BEAM NO. 13

FLASH TO PASS NO. 196

@,5

HIGH BEAM NO. 12

LEFT FRONT NO. 3

HEADLAMP DIMMER FEED NO. 15

STOP LAMP NO. 511

LAMP

LEFT REAR LAMP NO. 9

FEED

RIGHT REAR LAMP NO. 5

RIGHT

FRONT

LAMP

NO. 2

TURN SIGNAL NO. 44

HAZARD NO. 385

7.3

FEED

FEED

HAZARD

KNOB

Turn signal/hazard/dimmer switch continuity check points

Because a circuit breaker resets itself automatically, an electrical overload in a circuit breaker protected system will cause the circuit to fail momentarily, then come back on. If the circuit does not come back on, check it immediately. a) Remove the circuit breaker from the fuse panel. b) Using an ohmmeter, verify that there is continuity between both terminals of the circuit breaker. If there is no continuity, replace the circuit breaker. c) Install the old or new circuit breaker. If it continues to cut out, a short circuit is indicated. Troubleshoot the appropriate circuit

(see the wiring diagrams at the. back of this book) or have the system checked by a professional mechanic.

7

Turn signal/hazard/flash-to-pass/dimmer switch (multi-function switch) — check and replacement

Refer to illustrations

7.3, 7.18,

7.19,

7.20,

7.22 and 7.23

Check Mechanical diagnosis 1. Make the following mechanical function checks before conducting any electrical tests: a) If the turn signal lever will not stay in its mating hole, either the switch is worn or damaged or the retaining pin in the switch is missing. Replace the switch. b) If the headlight will not switch from bright to dim, or vice versa, the dimmer switch is binding or jammed. Replace the switch. c) If the switch will not cancel, the cancelling cam is coming off its shaft, is out of position or is cracked. Replace the switch. d) If the lever will not stay in the turn position, the switch is worn or damaged. Replace the switch.

ground (the switch casting) and each corresponding feed circuit to the switch. Continuity between any feed circuit and ground indicates that the switch is shorted and will have to be replaced. 3 Refer to the appropriate wiring diagrams at the end of this book and the accompanying terminal guide (see illustration) when performing the following continuity tests. You will also need a circuit or continuity tester. 4 Prior to testing, make sure that the hazard knob is pushed in all the way to the Off position. 5 With the lever in the Neutral position (and the brake lights inoperative), there should be: a) Continuity between circuit 511 (stoplight switch-to-turn signal switch) and circuits 5 (right rear turn signal) and 9 (left rear turn signal), respectively. b) No continuity between 511 and ground (switch casting). c) Nocontinuity between circuit 44 (turn signal flasher-to-turn signal switch) and 2 (right front turn signal), 3 (left front turn signal), 5 (right rear turn signal) and 9 (left rear turn signal). 6 Operate the switch from left turn to right turn to Neutral while checking the continuity between circuit 511 and ground. Continuity between 511 and ground in any position indicates a short in the switch. 7 With the lever in the left lane change-left turn position (and the right brake light inoperative), there should be: a) Continuity between circuits 44, 3 and 9. b) Continuity between circuits 511 and 5. c) No continuity between circuit 44 and ground. d) No continuity between circuits 44 and 5. 8 With the lever in the right lane change-right turn position (and the left brake light inoperative), there should be: a) Continuity between circuits 44, 2 and 5. _ b) Continuity between circuits 511 and 9. c) No continuity between circuit 44 and ground. d) No continuity between circuits 44 and 9. 9 While operating the switch from left turn to right turn to Neutral, check continuity between circuit 44 and ground. Continuity between 44 and ground in any position indicates a short in the switch. 10 With the emergency warning switch in the On position (and the emergency warning lights inoperative), there should be: a) Continuity between circuits 385 (flasher-to-emergency warning switch) and 2, 3, 5 and 9. b) Continuity between circuits 511, 2, 3, 5 and 9. c) Nocontinuity between circuit 385 and ground and circuits 385 and 44. 11 While operating the hazard switch from On to Off, check the continuity between circuit 385 and ground. Continuity in any position indicates a short in the switch. 12 With the headlight dimmer at the Low beam position (and the low beam inoperative), there should be: a) Continuity between circuits 15 (headlight dimmer switch feed) and 13 (headlight dimmer switch-to-Low beams). b) No continuity between circuits 15 and 12 (headlight dimmer switch-to-High beams). c) No continuity between circuits 196 (headlight flash-to-pass switch feed), 13 (headlight dimmer switch-to-Low beams) and V2e 13 With the headlight dimmer in the High beam position (and the high beam inoperative), there should be: a) Continuity between circuits 15 and 12. b) No continuity between circuits 15 and 13. c) No continuity between circuits 196 and 13 and between 196 and 12. 14 While operating the turn signal lever to both the High and Low beam positions, check continuity between circuit 15 and ground. Continuity in either position indicates a short in the switch. 15 With the lever held up in the flash-to-pass position, there should be: a) Continuity between circuits 196 and 12. b) No continuity between circuits 196 and 13. 16 If the multi-function switch fails any of the above tests, replace it.

Replacement 17

Detach the cable from the negative terminal of the battery.

262

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

7.18 To remove the dashboard kick panel underneath the steering column, remove the two screws from the slotted adjustment holes along the lower edge, then pop the panel fasteners loose from the clips attached to the dashboard along the upper edge of the panel

7.19

The two steering column shroud halves are held together by five screws

18 Remove the dashboard kick panel underneath the steering column by removing the two screws along the bottom edge and popping the upper edge loose from the clips attached to the dashboard (see illustration). 19 Remove all five steering column shroud screws (see illustration) and detach the upper and lower halves of the shroud. 20 Remove the multi-function switch lever by pulling it straight off the stalk (see illustration). To facilitate assembly, note that the key on the lever must be aligned with the keyway in the switch. 21 Note the position of the switch cover foam, then carefully peel it from the switch. 22 Unplug the two multi-function switch electrical connectors (see illustration). 23 Remove the two self-tapping screws that attach the switch to the lock cylinder housing (see illustration) and disengage the switch from the housing. The screws require a special Torx driver. 24 Installation is the reverse of removal. 7.20

To remove the switch lever from the multi-function

stalk, pull it straight off \

7a 7.22

Unplug both electrical connectors multi-function switch

(arrows) from the

7.23

Remove both self-tapping screws (arrows) from the multi-function switch to remove the switch

Chapter 12 ACC.

263

Chassis electrical system

LOCK

OF F

RUN

Q

f)

Ce

(P1) PROOF

(5) START

1 —

CIRCUIT NO. 977

- CKT NO. 32

a

a pi (11) IGNITION s CKT NO. 16 i e

N

{|xa

(P2) PROOF 2 — CIRCUIT NO. 41

i

N a

nO

. | ABs

RG

‘e 4.19

Detach the upper manifold support bracket by removing the top bolt only - leave the bottom bolt attached

19 Detachthe upper manifold support bracket— remove the top bolt but leave the bottom bolt attached (see illustration). 20 Unplug the electrical connectors at the main engine harness (near the no. 4 intake manifold runner). 21 Detach the fuel supply and return lines.

22 Remove the eight manifold mounting fasteners. 23 Remove the top bolt only and detach the lower support manifold bracket. Leave the bottom bolts attached. 24

Remove the manifold with the wiring harness and gasket.

Installation 25

Clean and inspect the mounting faces of the fuel charging man-

ifold assembly and the cylinder head. Make sure both surfaces are

clean and flat. 26 Install a new gasket. 27 Install the manifold assembly on the head and snug — but don’t torque the fasteners. 28 Attach the fuel return line to the fitting on the fuel supply manifold. 29 Tighten all manifold fasteners to the specified torque. 30 Connect the upper and lower manifold support brackets and tighten the bolts to the specified torque. 31 Install the EGR tube, lubricate the compression nut with antiseize compound and tighten it to the specified torque. 32 Installthe PCV system hoses. Connect the large PCV vacuum line to the upper manifold fitting. 33 Attach the rear manifold vacuum connections at the dash panel vacuum tree and connect the vacuum line(s) to the upper manifold. 34 Attach the accelerator cable and, if equipped, the cruise control cable. 35 Attach the wiring harness to the engine control harness (near the no. 4 runner). 36 Attach the fuel supply hose between the fuel filter and the fuel rail. Attach the fuel return line. 37 Attach the cable to the negative battery terminal. 38 Drive the vehicle to a dealer service department and have the EEC sensor functions checked. 39 Start the engine and allow it to idle until the temperature stabilizes. If necessary, reset the idle speed (refer to the VECI label).

Air intake throttle body — removal and installation Removal 40 Detach 41 Detach tion 4.9). 42 Unplug 43 Detach 44 Detach cable.

Say

FRONT OF ENGINE 4.56

L

(ra) >

pi

LOWER INTAKE

MANIFOLD

Exploded view of the air bypass assembly components

45 Detach the throttle cable bracket. 46 Remove the four mounting bolts and detach the throttle body from the upper intake manifold. Remove and discard the throttle body gasket.

Installation 47 Make sure both the throttle body and upper intake manifold gasket surfaces are clean. If you have to scrape off any old gasket material, be careful not to damage the gasket surfaces or allow any gasket material to drop into the manifold. 48 Using anew gasket, install the throttle body on the upper intake manifold and tighten the mounting bolts to the specified torque. 49 Install the throttle cable bracket and tighten the mounting nuts

securely. 50 Connect the throttle cable and, if equipped, the cruise control cable. 51 Attach the air bypass hose. 52 Plug in the throttle position sensor connector to the harness. 53 Install the air cleaner outlet tube between the air cleaner and throttle body. Tighten the clamps securely. 54 Attach the cable to the negative battery terminal.

Air bypass valve assembly - removal and installation Removal Refer to illustration 4.56 55 Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal. 56 Unplug the air bypass valve assembly connector from the wiring harness (see illustration). 57 Remove the two mounting bolts and detach the air bypass valve and gasket.

Installation 58 Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to clean both gasket surfaces carefully. Tighten the mounting bolts to the specified

torque.

Throttle position sensor - removal and installation Removal Refer to illustration 4.61

the cable from the negative battery terminal. and remove the air cleaner outlet tube (see illustrathe throttle position sensor connector from the harness. the air bypass hose. the throttle cable and, if equipped, the cruise control

59 Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal. 60 Unplug the throttle position sensor electrical connector from the wiring harness. 61 Scribe marks on the throttle body and the throttle position sensor to indicate proper alignment during installation (see illustration). 62 Remove the two mounting screws. 63 Detach the throttle position sensor.

Chapter 13 Supplement:

Revisions and information on later models VACUUM CONNECTIONS

—T

eC Hf =

293

¢

>:

Lid

7

KNsSeV~

v*

| 1

PPER

THROTTLE POSITION

INTAKE

ACN

MANIFOLD KSeY

ai ie

SENSOR

BOLTS

4.61 Before you remove the throttle position sensor from the throttle body, be sure to scribe a mark across the sensor and the throttle body as shown

Installation 64 Install the throttle position sensor. Make sure the rotary tangs on the sensor are in proper alignment and the wires are pointing down. Slide the tangs into position over the throttle shaft blade, then rotate the sensor clockwise only to the installed position. Caution: /f you attempt to install the throttle position sensor any other way, excessive idle speeds may result. 65 Align the scribe marks on the throttle body and the throttle position sensor. Secure the sensorto the throttle body assembly with the two screws and tighten the screws securely. Note: The sensor isn’t adjustable. 66 Plug in the throttle position sensor electrical connector to the harness.

67

Attach the cable to the negative battery terminal.

Upper intake manifold - removal and installation Removal Refer to illustration 4.71

68 Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal. 69 Detach the air cleaner outlet tube from the throttle body (see illustration 4.9). 70 Unplug the throttle position sensor from the wiring harness. 71 Detach the vacuum lines from the upper manifold (see illustration). 72 Detach the EGR tube at the manifold connection (see illustration 4.17). 73 Unplug the air bypass valve connector. 74 Removethe accelerator cable and, if equipped, the cruise control cable. 75 Remove the manifold upper support bracket top bolt (see illustration 4.19). 76 Remove the fuel supply manifold shield. 77 Remove the four upper manifold retaining bolts and one retaining shoulder nut. 78 Remove the upper manifold assembly and set it aside. 79 Remove and discard the gasket from the lower manifold assembiy. Caution: /f you find it necessary to scrape off old gasket material, be careful not to damage the gasket surfaces or allow material to drop into the lower manifold.

Installation 80 Make sure the gasket surfaces of the upper and lower intake manifolds are clean. 81 Place anew gasket on the lower manifold and position the upper

intake manifold on the lower. Attach them with the four retaining bolts and nut and tighten them to the specified torque.

4.71

wey ——

HK

Detach the vacuum lines from the fittings on the upper manifold

82 Reattach the manifold upper support bracket and tighten the bolt to the specified torque. 83 Coat the compression nut with anti-seize compound and reattach the EGR tube. Tighten the nut to the specified torque. 84 Attach the electrical connectors to the air bypass valve and throttle position sensor. -85 Attach the vacuum hoses to the upper manifold. 86 Attach the air cleaner outlet tube to the throttle body and secure it with the hose clamp. 87 Attach the cable to the negative battery terminal.

Fuel pressure regulator — removal and installation Removal 88 Relieve the system pressure (see Steps 1 and 2). Remove the fuel tank cap to relieve the tank pressure. 89 Remove the three bolts and detach the fuel rail shield. 90 Detach the vacuum line from the regulator. 91 Remove the three Allen screws from the fuel pressure regulator and detach the regulator, gasket and O-ring. Discard the gasket and inspect the O-ring. If the O-ring is cracked or otherwise deteriorated, discard it.

Installation 92 Make sure the gasket surfaces of the fuel pressure regulator and fuel rail are clean. If you have to scrape away any old gasket material, be careful not to damage the gasket surfaces. 93 Lubricate the fuel pressure regulator O-ring with light oil (ESEM2C39-F or equivalent). 94 Install the O-ring and gasket on the regulator. 95 Install the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail and tighten the screws to the specified torque. 96 Attach the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator. 97 Install the fuel rail shield and tighten the bolts securely.

Fuel rail —- removal and installation Removal Refer to illustration 4.104

98 Relievethe system pressure (see Steps 1 and 2). Remove the fuel tank cap to relieve the tank pressure. : 99 Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal. 100 Detach the fuel supply and return lines (see Section 3 in Chapter 4). 101 Unplug the wiring harness from the fuel injectors. 102 Remove the upper intake manifold (see Steps 68 through 79). 103 Detach the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator.

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294

Chapter 13 Supplement:

BOL! FUEL

FUEL INJECTOR ASSY

Revisions and information on later models

OUTLET END

RAIL

ASSY

INLET END

PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE

4.104

FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR

Exploded view of the fuel rail assembly components

4.118

Remove the old injector O-rings by carefully peeling them off with a small screwdriver

116 Remove the fuel rail and injector assembly from the lower intake

manifold (see Steps 98 through 104). 117 To remove each injector from the the fuel rail, grasp the body and pull on it while gently rocking it from side-to-side. 118 Remove the old O-rings by carefully peeling them off with a small screwdriver (see illustration). Caution: Handle the injectors with extreme care to prevent damage to sealing areas and sensitive fuel metering orifices. 119 Ford recommends inspecting the injector O-rings (one on each end of each injector) for deterioration and replacing them as necessary. We recommend replacing all O-rings, regardless of their condition. 120 Inspect the plastic injector “hat” covering the pintle and the washer (see illustration) for deterioration. Replace if necessary. If the hat is missing, look for it in the intake manifold.

Installation PINTLE PROTECTION CAP (PLASTIC “HAT”’)

4.120 Inspect the plastic injector “hat” and washer and replace them if they’re deteriorated - you may re-use the O-rings if they’re in satisfactory condition, but the smart thing to do is replace them while the injectors are out

121 Lubricate the new O-rings with light oil (ESE-M2C39-F or equivalent) and install two on each injector. 122 Using a gentle twisting motion, install the injectors in the lower intake manifold.

123 Install the fuel rail (see Steps 105 through 112). 124 Check the entire assembly for proper alignment and seating. 125 Install the upper intake manifold (see Steps 80 through 87).

104 Remove the two fuel rail mounting bolts (see illustration) and carefully separate the fuel rail from the fuel injectors.

5 _ Engine electrical systems

Installation

Charging system - general information

105 Make sure the injector caps are clean. 106 Make sure the injectors are seated properly in the lower intake manifold, then carefully seat the fuel rail assembly over the four injectors. 107 Install the fuel rail bolts and tighten them to the specified torque. 108 Attach the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator. 109 Attach the fuel supply and return lines (see Section 3 in Chapter

An internal fan-type alternator is used on newer models with an automatic transaxle and air conditioning

4). 110 Connect the fuel injector wiring harness to the injectors. 111 Install the upper intake manifold (see Steps 80 through 87). 112 Attach the cable to the negative battery cable.

Fuel injectors — removal and installation Removal Refer to illustrations 4.118 and 4.120 113 Relieve the system pressure (see Steps 1 and 2). Remove the fuel tank cap to relieve the tank pressure. 114 Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal. 115 Remove the upper intake manifold (see Steps 68 through 79).

Alternator — removal and installation 1 Alternator removal is basically the same for later models with the new type alternator (see Section 14 in Chapter 5). The electrical connectors are different, but removal still consists of detaching the connectors, loosening the adjustment and pivot bolts, removing the drivebelt, removing the adjustment and pivot bolts and detaching the alternator. Installation is the reverse of removal.

Voltage regulator/rectifier — replacement Refer to illustrations 5.2, 5.4, 5.6, 5.7, 5.8, 5.9 and 5.11 2 Remove the alternator, then mark the alternator halves with paint or a scribe (see illustration) to ensure proper reassembly. 3 Remove the three through bolts. Don’t attempt to pull oe alternator apart until you’ve read the next Step.

4 The rear bearing is pressed into the rear end frame. Place a 200 watt soldering iron on the rear end frame for three or four minutes

Chapter 13 Supplement:

Revisions and information on later models

295

eeoil

5.2.

Mark the alternator halves with paint or a scribe to ensure they’re properly aligned when reassembled

5.4

Heat the rear end frame with a 200W soldering iron to expand it enough to pull the bearing loose

Rear cover

5.6

Exploded view of the rear cover (end frame), the B terminal nut and the insulation bush

5.8 To replace the rectifier, remove the solder from the rectifier and stator leads (arrows) and from between the regulator and rectifier (shown) - if you're only replacing the regulator/brush holder assembly, it’s not necessary to de-solder the rectifier leads, but you'll still have to de-solder the lead between the two components

5.7.

5.9

Remove the rectifier and brush holder mounting screws (arrows)

You may find it easier to remove the entire regulator/brush

holder assembly, then de-solder the lead between the rectifier and the regulator/brush holder assembly to separate them

296

Chapter 13 Supplement:

Revisions and information on later models

Unsoldering points

5.16 5.11 Before assembling the alternator, push the brush into the _ holder and insert a paper clip through the indicated hole

Wear limit (the& mark) 2~3m 0.08~ 0.12 in) Brush holder end line 5.17 Solder the pigtail for the new brush so the wear limit line of the brush projects 0.080 to 0.120-inch (2 to 3 mm) out from the end of the brush holder

(see illustration). If you're using an iron with less output, keep it in contact a few minutes longer. 5 Pullthe alternator halves apart. Pry them apart with a screwdriver if necessary, but don’t use excessive force. If the two halves don't come apart fairly easily, the bearing is still stuck in the bore in the end frame housing. You'll damage the bearing or the end frame housing if you use excessive force. Put the soldering iron back on the end frame for a few more minutes. 6 Remove the B (battery) terminal nut and insulation bush (see illustration). 7 Remove the rectifier and brush holder mounting screws (see illustration). 8 Using asoldering iron, remove the solder from the rectifier and the stator leads (see illustration). Caution: Use the soldering iron for no more than five seconds at a time — otherwise, the rectifier may be damaged if it’s overheated. 9 Using asoldering iron, remove the solder from the lead between the voltage regulator and the rectifier (see illustration). 10 Even if you’re only planning to replace the regulator, check the brushes (see below) while the alternator is disassembled. 11 Before reassembling the alternator, push the brush into the brush holder and insert a paper clip through the hole inthe end frame to secure the brush in position (see illustration). 12 Installation is otherwise the reverse of removal. Be sure to heat the rear end frame before pushing the rear bearing into it. 13. Remove the wire securing the brush when you've completed reassembly.

To replace the brushes, de-solder the brush

pigtails at the indicated points and remove them from the brush holder assembly

16 Remove the solder from the brush pigtail (see illustration), then detach the brush from the holder. 17. Solder the pigtail for the new brush so the wear limit line of the brush projects 0.080 to 0.120-inch (2 to 3 mm) out from the end of the brush holder (see illustration). 18 Before assembling the alternator, push the brush into the holder and insert a paper clip through the indicated hole (see illustration 5.11) to secure the brush in position. 19 Installation is otherwise the reverse of removal. When you press

the rear bearing into the rear end frame, heat the end frame before pressing it in. 20 Besureto pull the wire out after you've reassembled the alternator.

6

Steering and suspension systems

General information 1.

Some 1991 models are equipped with airbags. Warning: /f your

vehicle is equipped with an airbag, DO NOT attempt to remove the steering wheel. Have it removed by a dealer service department or other repair shop. 2 Aside from this, the suspension and steering systems remain unchanged on the later models.

7

~=Body

General information Refer to illustrations 7.2a, 7.2b and 7.2c Although the body panels on 1988 later models are somewhat different in appearance than earlier models, the same procedures generally applyto removal and installation of the bumpers, door panels, door locks and strikers, console, seats, etc. However, we have included exploded views of the bonsale and dashboard (see illustrations) so you can refer to them when servicing the gearshift selector/linkage or when removing the instrument cluster or radio.

Automatic shoulder harnesses — general information

Refer to illustrations 5.16 and 5.17

Many late model vehicles are equipped with automatic front seat shoulder harnesses. They are termed automatic because you don’t have to buckle them - the shoulder harness automatically positions

14 15

release lever allows the harness to be manually removed for exit in

Alternator brushes — check and replacement Remove the alternator. Disassemble the alternator.

itself when the door is closed and the key is turned on. An emergency

Chapter 13 Supplement:

Revisions and information on later models

297

SAFETY BELT ASSY

CONSOLE FINISH PANEL ;

CONSOLE TOP PANEL ASSY

CONSOLE REAR FINISH PANEL INSERT

FRONT SEAT ARMREST ASSY

SAFETY BELT WARNING INDICATOR LAMP ASSY

STEREO TAPE CARTRIDGE CONTAINER SAFETY BELT ASSY

FRONT SEAT CENTER ARMREST SUPPORT

SAFETY BELT ASSY

RETAINING SCREWS VIEW A

PART OF

FRONT SAFETY BELT RETRACTOR

SSY

FRONT SAFETY

BELT OPENING REAR CONSOLE PANEL SUPPORT

CONSOLE FRONT SUPPORT

PRNOL ASSY

CONSOLE PANEL FRONT SUPPORT

FRONT SAFETY

BOLT

FRONT SEAT CENTER ARMREST SUPPORT

FRONT CONSOLE PANEL SUPPORT

7.2b

Exploded view of console without armrest (1988 and later models)

an emergency. Warning: Be sure to fasten the manual (lap) seatbelt as well. The automatic shoulder harness will not work properly unless the lap belt is fastened. Most systems have a warning light and buzzer that indicate the emergency release lever has been pulled up, releasing the shoulder harness. Make sure the release lever is down and the light/buzzer are off to ensure proper operation of the automatic shoulder harness.

Also, if you disconnect any wires or remove any automatic shoulder

harness components when performing repair procedures on other vehicle components, be sure to reinstall everything and check the harness for proper operation when the repairs are complete. Since the automatic shoulder harness is operated by several electrical switches and is computer controlled, diagnosis and repair must be done by a dealer service department. Do not jeopardize the

298

Chapter 13 Supplement:

Revisions and information on later models

INSTRUMENT PANEL

INSTRUMENT $ PANEL CLUSTER OPENING FINISH PANEL INSERT ASSY

INSTRUMENT PANEL CLUSTER OPENING TRIM PANEL ASSY

HESERIES

INSTRUMENT

INSTRUMENT PANEL RADIO OPENING COVER

_

INSTRUMENT PANEL STEERING COLUMN OPENING COVER REINFORCEMENT ASSY

|

LH INSTRUMENT

i aie

INSTRUMENT PANEL STEERING COLUMN OPENING COVER REINFORCEMENT ASSY

PANEL CENTER FINISH PANEL OPENING RH INSTRUMENT

ee ea

SCREW

PANEL CENTER FINISH PANEL OPENING

LOW SERIES

7.2c

Exploded view of dashboard (1988 and later models)

c) If the motor is getting voltage, but isn’t working, check the ground, then replace the motor. 3 Further testing of the windshield wiper switch and motor is beyond the scope of the home mechanic. Take the vehicle to a dealer service department or a repair shop.

Headlight control switch and rheostat - check and replacement Refer to illustrations 8.5 and 8.11

8.5

Headlight switch connector check - 1988 and later models

safety of front seat occupants — if the automatic shoulder harness malfunctions, or you have questions regarding the proper use or operation of the system, contact a dealer service department.

8

Chassis electrical system

4 The headlight switch check outlined in steps 1 through 8 in Section 11 of Chapter 12, applies to 1988 and later headlight switches as well. 5 Butseveral steps in the headlight switch connector check — and the terminal arrangement of the connector (see illustration) — for newer models are somewhat different. Steps 9 through 12 apply. Then proceed as outlined below. 6 Connect a 12-volt test light between the IGN terminal and ground. With the ignition switch in the Run position, the test light should glow. If it doesn’t, trace the circuit back to the ignition and service as necessary. 7 Connect ajumper wire between terminals B2 and DN. The liquid crystal lights should be on full bright.

a) Ifthey aren't, trace the DN circuit back to the lights and service as necessary.

Windshield wiper/washer switch and motor description, check and component replacement 1

b) If the circuit is okay, check the ground circuit for the lights. Note: No other instrument panel lights will work during this

The procedures in Chapter 12, Section 9, for checking the wind-

shield wiper/washer switch and motor don't apply to 1988 later models. 2 \|fthe windshield wiper/washer system isn’t functioning proper-

ly, refer to the wiring diagrams at the end of this book and check for continuity between the battery and the switch and between the switch and the wiper motor. Note: Make sure the battery is fully charged before proceeding. a) If the switch isn’t getting voltage, look for a short or open in the circuit between the battery and switch. b) If the switch is getting voltage but the motor isn’t, look for an

open between the switch and motor or replace the switch.

test. 8

Returnto the procedure in Section 11 of Chapter 12 and perform

Step 13. If the circuit is okay, check the ground circuit. Note: The /iguid crystal display lights won’t work during this test. 9 Connecta 12-volttest light between terminal D1 and ground. The test light should glow. If it doesn’t, trace the circuit back to the fuse panel and service as necessary. 10 Connect a jumper wire between terminals D1 and D2. With allthe doors closed, and the jumper wire connected, the dome light should come on. If it doesn't, trace circuit D2 back to the dome light. Service as necessary. If the circuit is okay, check the ground circuit.

Chapter 13 Supplement:

8.11

Revisions and information on later models

299

Headlight switch connector terminals and continuity chart - 1988 and later models

RHEOSTAT

HEADLAMP SWITCH TERMINALS

HEADLAMP SWITCH TEST

L 3

Switch Terminals

Off

Switch Positions

__ Park

No Cont No Cont

Headlamp

No Cont Continuity No Cont

Continuity No Cont

Continuity Continuity

No Cont Continuity

Continuity

Rotate knob clockmse — ohmmeter will show smoothly increasing resistance With knob fully counterclockwise (in detent) a Continuity

With knob clockwise (out of detent) — No Continuity

RADIO RETAINING SPRING

BADIO WIRING

ANTENNA CONNECTION

VIEW A

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TOOL LOCKS ON SPRING HERE

TOOL INSERTION HOLES RADIO REMOVAL TOOL

TOOL INSERTION HOLES

8.13 To remove the radio from a 1988 or later model, simply insert a special radio removal tool (there are two in a set) into the holes at the sides of the radio faceplate, push them in about an inch to release the retaining springs and, using the tools as handles, pull the radio out of the dash far enough to detach the electrical connectors and antenna

11 The procedure for checking headlight switch continuity on 1988 and 1989 models is also somewhat different from earlier models. Refer to the accompanying table and perform continuity checks between the indicated terminals (see illustration). 12 Ifthe headlight switch fails any of the above tests, replace it.

Radio - removal and installation Removal Refer to illustration 8.13 13 The procedure for removal and installation of the radio in 1988 and later models is much simpler than for earlier units. However, you'll have to obtain a pair of special radio removal tools

(T87P-19A061-A or equivalent — available from a dealer or an automotive radio store) (see illustration). 14 Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal. 15 Pop out the instrument panel radio opening cover (see illustration 15.2c in Chapter 12). — 16 Insert the radio removal tools into each side of the radio face- © plate. Press them ina full inch to release the radio retaining clips. Pull the radio out of the instrument panel using the tools as handles. 17 Unplug the wiring connectors and antenna cable from the rear of the radio. 18 If you're replacing the radio, switch the rear mounting bracket to the new radio.

300

Chapter 13 Supplement:

Revisions and information on later models

8.32

When installing the instrument cluster in the dash, insert the left corner first like this

Installation 19 Attach the wiring connectors and antenna cable to the radio. 20 Slide the radio into the instrument panel. Engage the rear mounting bracket in the track in the instrument panel. 21 Install the dashboard radio opening cover. 22 Attach the cable to the negative battery terminal.

30 Remove the four screws which retain the cluster and carefully pull the cluster to the rear enough to disengage the speedometer cable. 31 Carefully pull the cluster away from the instrument panel. Detach the cluster feed plugs from the printed circuit.

Instrument cluster — removal and installation

32 When you install the cluster back in the dash, insert the left hand corner into position first (see illustration). 33. Place the cluster in position. 34 Attach the speedometer cable to the cluster. 35 Install the plugs in the printed circuit. 36 Attach the speedometer cable to the transaxle. 37 Install the four cluster retaining screws. 38 Install the cluster opening finish panel and the four retaining

Installation Refer to illustration 8.32

Removal Note: Refer to the exploded view of the dashboard (illustration 5.2c). 23 Theinstrument panel on 1988 and later models is different from earlier units. 24 Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal. 25 Remove the two retaining screws at the bottom of the steering column opening and snap the steering cover out. 26 Remove the steering column trim shroud. 27 Remove the snap-in lower cluster finish panels. 28 Remove the four cluster opening finish panel retaining screws. 29 Detach the speedometer cable at the transaxle.

screws. 39 Install the snap-in lower cluster finish panels. 40 41 42

Install the steering column trim shroud. Install the steering column cover and two retaining screws. Attach the battery ground cable.

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& CONV,

A/C

LAMP

FAN

CONTROLLER

BUTAGE

PROTECTI@N & CONV. LAMP @UTAGE PROTECTION & CONV. LAMP OUTAGE

ea

+350 @HNS

+248 @HMS

140 BK-PK

14 ar

9 Lé-0

$-507

14 BR

57 BK

LH,

STOP

PARK

& T/S

L.H. BACKUP

LAMP

? ae

57 Bk

vip sae

WECENce LAMPS 5

Bk

105 R-u

14 BR

pay es

as aR

Ru.

RH.

FRONT

BACKUP

PARK

& T/S

LanP

57 BK

Al

s-sog 8K

Lane

3?

8K

ie 8k G-405

MODEL

TEMPO 54 & 66 $-410

5? 37 57 57

8K Bk BK 8K

——————_+4 CHARGE START RUN. FUEL GAGE SENDER —————————_+_ILLUNM. LAMPS. PRWDL FL@@R LAMP AUT@ TRANS —————————-+4, PROTECTION & CONV. PRK BRK SIGNAL LARP ————————4 PROTECTION & CONV. SEAT BELT BUCKLE SW

Typical rear exterior light wiring diagram (1984 US and 1984 to 1987 Canadian vehicles) — Tempo model 54 and 66, Topaz model 66

a

308

C-303

i148 BK-PK

ae

BK-PK

>— 5 8-18

t

a4 c 14

wal

14

Br

a,

4.28

BR

5 @-LB

4

tg BR

5

9 L6-8

= L.H. STOP PARK & T/S LAMP

-

57 BK

oe Bk =

14 BR L.H. STOP PARK & T/S LAMP

57 BK

IE

Lowe BACKUP LAMP

57 Bk

i Chis

aos

reece LAMPS

57 Bk

57 6k

O—57 =

Pa ra

R.H, BACKUP LANP

R.H. FRONT PARK & T/S LAMP

57 Bk

57 s-sog BK

RH, FRONT PARK & T/S L AMP

57 BK

3? 8k

Bk

6-405

ax I C-216

|

57 Bk — 3? BK

STD TOPAZ F

penelsod

$-410

9

10

ii

12

57 57 57 57

13

BK 8K BK BK

it

[ 404 LB-8 14

140 BK-PK

+124 QHMS

5 @-LB 14 BR

102

=

5 @-LB $-512

14 BR

14

W

9

r—14 BR

LG-8

BR

14 BR —WW—-14

$-510

BR

+350 HHS

14 BR -~W—-14 $-513

BR

ae

4100 @HMS

14 BR +350 @HNS

& & & & &

RUN, FUEL GAGE SENDER PRNDL FLOOR LAMP CONV. PRK BRK SIGNAL LAMP CONV. SEAT BELT BUCKLE SW

CONV. CONV. CONV. CONV. CONV.

LAMP LAMP LAMP LAMP LAMP

@UTAGE @UTAGE BUTAGE QUTAGE BUTAGE

14 BR $-S11

14 BR

|

14 aR

.124 124 @ @HM 3

CHARGE START ILLUM. LAMPS, PROTECTION & PROTECTION &

14 eit 104 LB-@ -S PROTECTION PROTECTION 14 BR ——4 PROTECTION fa PROTECTION ae i PROTECTIGN 105 WR

102

reer = } * ' > '

——————5 ——————+ ——————-5 ——————-%

+100 @HMS

y C-216

3 6-8 $-514

ee-

ee L6-

5

e-Le8 $-507

14 BR L.H. STOP

PARK

AMP Lan

57

8K

& T/S

57 BK

L.H. STOP

PARK

L ANP

LoHe

& T/S

LAMP

57 8K

3?

8k

BK

ee

TEGENSe LAMPS 3?

3?

O—57

A

rea

5

O-lB 14 BR

14 BR

er

BACKUP

“sy

s-sog BK

Bk

RH.

R.H. FRONT

RH. FRONT

@ackuP

PARK

PARK

LanP 57

5?

BK

BK

Lane

& T/S

57 Bk

LAMP

& T/S

57 8x

zg

6-405

ne

57 8K

h C-216 4) 5? 8K

TOPAZ MODEL 54

$-410

5? BK ——————-4

CHARGE START RUN. FUEL GAGE SENDER

37 BK ——————+_ILLUM. LAMPS. PRNOL FLOOR LAMP 37 BK ——————-4 PROTECTION & CONV, PRK BRK SIGNAL LAMP 37 BK —————=4 PROTECTION & CONV. SEAT BELT BUCKLE Sw

Typical rear exterior light wiring diagram (1984 US and 1984 to 1987 Canadian vehicles) — Topaz model 54

309

1

Ih

2

le

3

4

5

6

c-303

A

4

>

140

>

5 0-18

t

14 BR

}

‘

1

> ‘

PP

2

104 LB-@ 5 PR@TECTIAN 14 BR 4 PROTECTION PROTECTION fae pS PROTECTION BK-PK

14

+248 BHNS

LEQ

5 8-LB dle

14 BR

1

| & & & &

CONV, CONV. CONV, CONV.

8

LAMP LAMP LAMP LAMP

BUTAGE QUTAGE BUTAGE BUTAGE

10s

W

ie

Ly

IL

+100

+350

HHS

@HNS

14 BR —VWW\—14 BR —@-14 BR -WW—14 BR $-509 $-510 $-S11

|

14 BR

248 sc —14

18 A.C. BUTLET

BR

140 BK-PK s-s01f

‘|

104

4 be

ute

LB-8

L6-@

ere $-507 14 14

BR L.H. STOP PARK & 1/5

LH. Backup

L ARP

LAMP

eee us Ant ie

CICENSE LAMPS

57

BK

3? Bk

Ih

5

BR

ane = b°Fe

57 BK 2

= TyKA >—53 eK-L8 c-505 14 BR -S EXTERTOR LIGHTING. REAR LANPS F-14

L__¢40 r-v 4 cC-202 4k P.c. FRONT SEAT BELTS

Ld

iene

Lise Pere ait

85

A

BR-LB D

=

INDICATRR

TeNITION

SWITCH

KEY

8

10

er

Cr

Cr

CC

Oar

62 LE-R

2

c-507

se

VANITY

ENP

MIRROR

SWITCH AND LAMP

=

RPK =

=

573158 $7 8k ——®—57 BK $-203

40 -_——ooer

53 BK-LB — 53 BK-LB ——

c-1117

SWITCH AND Lanp

13

$-1002

54 L6-Y

VANITY

12

it

\6-¥ ———

Said csseme aeamEES 54 L6-¥ — A

MIRROR

att

BK-LB

$-1001

c-1417

WARNING SWITCH -- eS sear if] ~~ ee | bial = \—158 r-Px 1 eee ax BUCKLE SWITCH Sil F 5? BK —— >-—}

F

53 BK-LB $-505

Were GR

SEAT BELT WARNING

sie

c-313

he.

\6-¥

158 erent ft

c-801

A

ab Br-t8 D

c-s0ry

——t{-

yC-417

640 RYH bi

——s4

53 BK-L\8 ——229 BK-y

c-140

i

RELAY

—< rt

c

LIGHTING,

SPLICE $-302

DEICING

a

45 Y-R —— 359

VM =

8k-4¥ —

c-450

sla

$-137 C-136

c-449 2 R~
—53

BK-LB

159

33 BK-LB

—>>—53 Bk-L8 c-505 peer BR -S EXTERIOR LIGHTING,

L6-¥ ————

fen

53 BK-LB

ef! at $-1002

53 BK-LB

53 BK-LB

Ma 54 L6-¥ 54 L6-Y 54 L6-Y

ay

158 BK-PK H H

BK-LB

$-1001

34

54

640 R-Y

c-919

$-505

a C-417

ee

c-1117

C-1117

C-507

198 gePa Le

—————+

bE:

BK-PK

fh

iPS:

Y

al

BR-L8 D

WARNING

=

INDICATOR

IGNITION

SWITCH

KEY

D

VANITY

VANITY

SWITCH

SWITCK

MIRROR

Beene

BS

SEAT BELT 85

Beets

AG

BR-LB

53 BK-L8 ——54

FRONT

=

53 BK-LB

a4

t___e40 r-y ee

LG-Y 4

c-505

LoHe

Ld

;

54 LG-¥ ~——K€-54

0, |Lanp QU |swrtcH

HEADLAMP SWITCH =

L

SANT Gato 54 L6-Y —

54

Y

nae

MIRROR

AND

rane

AND

LAMP

LAMP

159

=

R-PK =

WARNING

SEAT BELT BUCKLE SWITCH 57 BK

K

tay

(16 GA)

ut

Oh i 4-297

$-155 c

$-307 IGNITION

6

BK-LG H

640

SWITCH

302

R-Y H

F USE LINK

10 A

0-OFF

{20 6A)

BK-Y

>—640 R-¥ H

POSITIONS S-START R-R uN

BK-yAs D

F-18

C-338

Seer

=

D

16 R-L6

"1

Y——«

— yn¢ C=885

640 H R-Y

L-LecK

ah

640 R-Y H

A-ACCY

BK-Y

sie 7

\

=

Paes

C-165

640

G

R-Y

Y C-338

Ak BAG LAMP

PoC.

H

al)

Ay

C-202 STARTER MOTOR

“a

= RELAY 12

C-168

VOLT

BATTERY

See

F

rang

C-168

C-168 3) ane em

9

10

it

8:29 PER) A

on

12

014

i

13

14

88,

C-165

BK-PK

Cory, 8-6

|

—614

15

16

ean C-167

RIAR SENSOR

c-165 ]

A

4 C-165 614 GY-@

C-165

pean 37

PRAVISTONS ap

DISARM

611

DEVICE

/ c-160

DRIVER

eee EXTERNAL (CK= Sree) =

MODULE

;

W-@

c-160 A

C-160

INFLATOR

C-165

u-@

C-160 a

1 it

on i

,

ay

'

2

V4

MONITOR ASSEMBLY

+> $3) ts cea ' ' ' 1 eee

c

614 GY-8

619 PK-w

LO

asa

ie,

620 P-LB © ay ee Ue a

611 K-83 a

LPe

NesAWA naam aSag WoW aN

C= fe 16a i)

620 P-LB

—

S > C-163

57 BK Peet 5?

BK

@UTBOARD 57

BK

i

E

CENTER FORWARD SENSOR

L

rear

@UTB@ARD

SENSOR

SENSOR

:

(Roe

(LeH.

FORWARD )

FORWARD )

2 6-110

Typical dash panel/console wiring diagram (1985 to 1987 US vehicles) — continued

A IRBAG

325 a6

1

|

2

|

3

POWER DISTRIBUTION. FUSE PANEL F-2

—

POWER

S=——640

DISTRIBUTION.

FUSE

PANEL

F-18

POWER DISTRIBUTION.FUSE PANEL F-13

af

4

i

5

6

R-Y

H

LB-R al

So

LB-R b Nic 303

19 LB-R

"4 a C-202 ar C-202A eR C-129

19 LO-R

VY

19 LB-R

c-506

s+———18 LB-R

4 =

ih 19 19 BAR 1 LB-R a

}

5

19

\ c-805

ean: hearany renee

f 13 -SACBER

19 BB=Ry

LB-R

HEATER C@NTROLS

SUGNe Ny Y,

ice c-125

a

:

LB-R

ibeA

ch

K

CLUSTER

CONSOLE ASH TRAY ILLUMINATION LAMP

ILLUMINATION LAHP Aw * C-805 at

A

8k

8K

“Ce

ILLUMINATIBN (6) LAMPS

ay Be

19 ts Ce ay f

I c-125

ibe |

ae

x

LO-R

19 LB-R

A C-403

T prno L ene (FLOBR) LAMP yw Vee and

19

4

a teee =

8

63.R

S——19

19

4

?

—

=

TePAZ (5S LAMPS

TEMPO

sae Feces

: Ss

AN/FM/MPX RADIe

RECEIVER

Y, C-202

|

ar C-202A eR 6-129

Ail

=

ce menen aieh

recerver

PA01® RECEIVER

(ae $-203

|

3?

ax

=

ACE

eeeer

Py

Very

=

+ 8 TRACK TAPE

5? BK

2

57 BK

57 BK

a 6-1002 57? BK —S

SESS BE

COE

C400

13

12

it

10

9

TRE FETE

Ne

14

|

La

15

!

16

W/S/M WASHER SWITCH 2. SPEED-INTERMITTENT

|

aaa

EXTERI@R LIGHTING. SPLICE S-410

P@SITIANS

I-INTERM.

tt

P-OFF 63

L-LOH

63 R ————_——_

H-HIGH

19 LB-R

19 LB-R $1005

ests

COO eer 19 LB-R 19 LB-R —

hee ,

W/S/W WASHER SWITCH ome

ae

seubten ea bebe laspeels Ae Anat ees ee Nias < yee ee 3? att 56 58 63 i Brie ‘28

SWITCH POSITIONS @-eFF caees

R

H-HIGH

a

CONSBLE ILLUMINATION CONSOLE ILLUMINATION GB)

aK

GOVERNOR

| OS

|

+

28 Bx ax-pK p OF L elie Sells isdye sye---aye-] es ays

LAMP

eee

Sef ak

asa 0

Sy W/S WIPER

—+

LAMP

57

K-w H

| eo

28

57 Bk

ak

$-1000

W/S/H RESERVOIR FLUID

LE¥EL

SENSOR 40 2 ¥ H

L

9414

BK-W