Haynes Ford Thunderbird & Mercury Cougar Automotive Repair Manual 1850107254, 9781850107255

Citation preview

FORDTHUNDERBIRD&

MERCURY COUGAR 1989 and 1990

All

models

Automotive Repair Manual

HP

BOSTOIM

PUBLIC tlBR^RY

Ford Thunderbird

& Mercury Cougar Automotive

JSsSg&raeoair Manual a,tf

Or this

m a *_,

" ,c

.

Libran,

•"•"•"•».».

Ob,

by Ken Freund and John H Haynes Member

of the Guild of

Motoring Writers

Models covered: All

Ford Thunderbird and Mercury Cougar models

1989 and 1990 ABCOE FGMIJ

KLMNO PQBST

A /U/7CMCT1VI: i*virra

(t

ATCI-SSCRIIS

ASSOCj^jgg MEMBEP

Haynes Publishing Group Sparkford Nr Yeovil

Somerset BA22 7JJ England

Haynes Publications, 861 Lawrence Drive Newbury Park California 91

320

USA

Inc

Acknowledgements

We are grateful

to the

Ford Motor

Company

for

assistance with

technical information, certain illustrations and vehicle photos.

Champion Spark Plug Company supplied the

The

illustrations of vari-

ous spark plug conditions. Technical writers who contributed to Robert Maddox, Larry Warren and Brian

this project include

Styve.

©

Haynes Publishing Group 1990

A book

in

the

Haynes Automotive Repair Manual Series

Printed by J.H. Haynes & Co., Somerset BA22 7JJ, England

Ltd.

Sparkford

Nr. Yeovil,

reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright

All rights

holder.

ISBN1 85010 725 4 Library of

Congress Catalog Card Number 90-85100

is made to ensure that the information in this correct, no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omis-

While every attempt

manual

is

sions from, the information given.

Contents Introductory pages About this manual

0-5

Introduction to the Ford Thunderbird/Mercury

Vehicle identification

Cougar

numbers

0-6

Buying parts

0-8

Maintenance techniques, tools and working Booster battery (jump) starting Jacking and towing Automotive chemicals and lubricants Safety first!

Conversion factors Troubleshooting

Chapter

0-5

facilities

0-8

0-15 0-16 0-1 7

0-18 0-19 0-20

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1-1

Chapter 2 Part A Engine

2A-1

Chapter 2 Part B General engine overhaul procedures

2B-1

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

3-1

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

4-1

Chapter 5 Engine

electrical

systems

5-1

Chapter 6 Emissions control systems

6-1

Chapter 7 Part A Manual transmission

7A-1

Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transmission

7B-1

Chapter 8 Clutch and drivetrain

8-1

Chapter 9 9-1

Brakes

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

Chapter

10-1

11 11-1

Body

Chapter 12 Chassis

electrical

system

12-1

Wiring diagrams

12-16

Index

IND-1

o i-

!5 a>

o CO O)

About Its

manual

this

purpose The purpose

manual

numbered Sections, which are headed in bold type between horizontal Each Section consists of consecutively numbered paragraphs. At the beginning of each numbered Section you will be referred to any illustrations which apply to the procedures in that Section. The reference numbers used in illustration captions pinpoint the pertinent Section and

lines.

you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done, even if you choose to have it done by a dealer service department or a repair shop; it provides information and procedures for routine maintenance and servicing; and offers diagnostic and repair procedures to folof this

is

to help

the Step within that Section. That

it

low

when

We

hope you use the manual

simpler jobs, doing

it

yourself

to tackle the

work

may be quicker than

yourself. For

many

arranging an appoint-

ment to get the vehicle into a shop and making the trips to leave and pick up. More importantly, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the expense the shop must pass on to you to cover its labor and overhead costs. An added benefit is the sense of satisfaction and accomplishment that you it

it

feel after

is,

illustration 3.2

means the illustration

and Step (or paragraph) 2 within that Section. Procedures, once described in the text, are not normally repeated. When it's necessary to refer to another Chapter, the reference will be given as Chapter and Section number. Cross references given without use of the word "Chapter" apply to Sections and/or paragraphs in the same refers to Section 3

trouble occurs.

Chapter. For example, "see Section 8"

References to the in

doing the job yourself.

left

means

in

same Chapter. assume you are sittkig

the

or right side of the vehicle

the driver's seat, facing forward.

Even though we have prepared this manual with extreme care, neither

Using the manual The manual

the publisher nor the author can accept responsibility for any errors

divided into Chapters. Each Chapter

is

is

divided into

in,

or

omissions from, the information given.

NOTE i

A Note provides information necessary to properly complete a procedure or information which will make the procedure easier to

understand.

CAUTION A Caution

provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the

Caution

found. Not heeding a Caution can result

is

in

damage

to the

assembly being worked on.

WARNING A Warning Warning

is

provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the found. Not heeding a Warning can result in personal injury.

Introduction to the

Ford Thunderbird/Mercury Cougar The Ford Thunderbird and Mercury Cougar have front

the conventional

engine/rear-wheel drive layout.

All

models are equipped with a fuel-injected V6 engine. Some engines

are supercharged.

Power from the engine

is

transferred through either a five-speed

ual or four-speed automatic transmission to the

frame-mounted

man-

differen-

by a tubular driveshaft incorporating universal joints. Halfshafts, incorporating constant velocity (CV) joints, carry power from the differen-

tial

tial

to the rear

wheels.

Suspension

is

independent, both front and

rear, with

upper and lower

arms used to locate the knuckle assembly at each wheel. The front suspension uses strut/coil spring assemblies. The rear suspension features coil springs and conventional shock absorbers. Some models are equipped with Automatic Ride Control (ARC). The rack and pinion steering unit is mounted in front of the suspension control

Power assist is standard. The brakes are disc at the front and drum at the rear (some models are equipped with rear disc brakes) with vacuum assist standard. Some models are equipped an Anti-lock Braking System (ABS). control arms.

Vehicle identification Modifications are a continuing

and unpublicized process

manufacturing. Since spare parts manuals and merical basis, the individual vehicle identify the

component

lists

numbers are

in

numbers

vehicle

er,

serial

number.

essential to correctly

Engine numbers

required.

Vehicle Identification

type of restraint system, body type, engine, transmission, model year

and vehicle

are compiled on a nu-

Labels containing the engine code, engine number and build date can be found on the valve cover (see illustration). The engine number is also stamped into the engine block.

Number (VIN) number is stamped

a metal plate visible from outside the vehicle, looking through the windshield. The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certificate of Title and Registration. It contains information such as where and when the vehicle was manufactured, the model year and the body style. This very important identification

into

attached to the top of the driver's side of the dashboard.

It

is

Manual transmission numbers The manual transmission can be found on a tag on the

identification left

number and

serial

numbers

side of the transmission.

Automatic transmission numbers Vehicle Certification label The Vehicle

Metal tags with the automatic transmission serial number, build date

(VC

Certification label

label) is

and other information are attached with a

attached to the front of the

The upper half of the label contains the name of the manufacturer, the month and year of production, the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), the Gross Axle weight rating (GAWR) and the certificadoor lock

left

statement (see illustration). The VC label also contains the VIN number, which

identification of the vehicle,

usually at the extension

Vehicle Emissions Control Information (VECI) label This label is located in the engine compartment. It contains information on the emissions control equipment installed on the vehicle as well as

tion

is

bolt,

housing.

pillar.

used for warranty

and provides such information as manufactur-

tune-up specifications.

ENGINE CODE LABEL IDENTIFICATION

CHART

SOS

49 S

CANADA

CALIF.

L

1

1

A B

S T

2

2

YEAR

A — AIR/CONDITIONING

3

3

4

4 5

E

R

X

F

L

s

B — NON AIR/CONDITIONING C — INDUSTRIAL AND MARINE D — EXPORT E — OVER 6000 LBS/NON THERM F — THERMACTOR WITHOUT A/C G — A/C OR NON A/C ENGINES

6

G

M

T

H

7 8 9

H

N

J

P

w

K

R

X

5

6 7 8 9

M

C D

N

U

P

W

— POWER STEERING J — THERMACTOR WITH A/C K — THERMACTOR A/C OR NON A/C L — OVER 6000 LBS/THERM

u

BASE DISPLACEMENT VEHICLE APPLICATION INERTIA

WEIGHT

AXLE RATIO TRANSMISSION

DESIGN LEVEL A

— USED TO

INDICATE INITIAL RELEASE

xxxxxxx ENGINE

NUMBER

The engine code

999 999 999 label, located

Sfi?

REVISION LEVEL A

—

USED TO INDICATE

INITIAL

99/99/99

on the valve cover, contains the engine code, engine number and build date

RELEASE

:

Vehicle identification

0-7

numbers

1FABP43F2KZ100O01

VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER

WORLD MANUFACTURER

IDENTIFIER

RESTRAINT SYSTEM TYPE

MFD. BY FORD DATE:

MOTOR

CO. IN U.S.A.

09-88

FRONT GAWR: 1231

CONSTANT "P"

(?)

GVWR: 5347 LB - 2425 KG REAR GAWR: 2683 LB 1216 KG

2714 LB

KG

LINE. SERIES.

BODY TYPE

ENGINE TYPE

CONFORMS TO ALL APPLICABLE FEDERAL MOTOR VEHICLE SAFETY AND BUMPER STANDARDS IN EFFECT ON THE DATE OF MANUFACTURE SHOWN ABOVE.

THIS VEHICLE

CHECK

DIGIT

MODEL YEAR ASSEMBLY PLANT

VEH. IDENT. NOT ifabpomzkxwoooi

YPE PASSENGER 2A

EXTERIOR PAINT COLORS

BODY

I

INT.

TRIM

|

TAPE

I

R

PRODUCTION SEQUENCE NUMBER

S

54K

UNITED/STATES

(l) MFD. BY FORD MOTOR CO. OF CANADA LTD. DATE:

GVWR:

FRONT GAWR:

REAR GAWR:

~

s 0)

c

"°

?

a>

E

c

| S

(/)

to

-c

S

*: 1o

Q.

-J

—

Uj

^

E o o CD c

IO Co

K

00

(0

'5

c CD

« U

a O C O cp C

-O

9>"S

§•3 £.8

III! QOQ

$>

c\i

*

^ ^

Chapter

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1-7

5 .5

Q.

IS II lO «>

c ID c o Q.

E o o

3

"O '3> i-

0)

•o

c 3

y

'

-

steering coupling bolts (arrows)

--iri

O^ 5

Remove

14.14

3

4 5 6

the retaining strap (arrows)

14.19

Remove the

oil

pan bolts

Remove the wiper arms and module (see Chapter 1 2). Remove the weatherstrip and plastic covering from the cowl. Remove the crankshaft position sensor shield, equipped. On supercharged models, remove the intercooler tubes (see Chapif

ter 4).

7

Attach an engine support fixture (Ford no. D88L-6000-A or equiva-

lent) to

the engine

lifting

eyes adjacent

to the

exhaust manifolds. Note:

Many equipment rental yards have engine 8

Raise the vehicle and support

Remove

it

supports available. securely on jackstands.

and disconnect the

oil level sensor on pan (see illustration). 1 Drain the engine oil and remove the oil filter (see Chapter 1 ). 1 If you're working on a vehicle with an automatic transmission, disconnect the transmission cooler lines at the radiator (see Chapter 3). 1 Remove the starter motor (see Chapter 5), wire harness and ground

9

the

the side of the

oil

level dipstick

oil

strap.

Disconnect the steering flex coupling (see illustration). Remove the through bolts from the front engine mounts. Also remove the side mount retaining strap (see illustration), if equipped. 1 Position a transmission jack or floor jack under the crossmember be-

13

14.20

1

low the 1

oil

pan.

Remove

two bolts on the 1

front of the

illustration).

Installation Refer

crossmember and lower

1

Finish unbolting the

1

Remove the oil pan mounting bolts (see illustration),

including the oil

pan from the

damage to the

block. Don't pry

sealing surfaces

may

result

between the and oil leaks

to illustration

14.23

putty knife to remove all traces of old gasket and sealant from the pan and block. Be careful not to damage the delicate aluminum surfaces on the pan. 22 Clean the mating surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone. Make sure

21

it.

pan-to-bellhousing bolts. Carefully separate the

wood and a hammer (see

crossmember.

Remove the shock absorber-to-control arm bolts and nuts (see Chap-

block and pan or

pan loose

Loosen the

ter 10).

20

to break the oil

could develop. Instead, dislodge the pan with a large rubber mallet or a block of

the six bolts from the rear of the crossmember.

Use a mallet

Use a gasket scraper or

material

the bolt holes

in

the block are clean.

Chapter 2 Part

A

2A-19

Engine

OIL PAN

SEALER MUST SEAL

FILL

GROOVE (AS SHOWN)

REAR CAP

2 PLACES

SENSOR ASSY

REAR SEAL

SILICONE RUBBER

SEALER CYLINDER BLOCK

VIEW A 0)

NOTE APPLY A ZIG-ZAG BEAO OR EXTRA SEALER ON JOINT OF FRONT COVER AND CYLINDER

FRONT COVER

BLOCK

ASSY

Apply sealant to the block inside of the bolt holes and

14.23

15.3

23 of

24

After the

removed, the oil pump cover bolts are accessible (arrows)

Use RTV sealant to hold the new

RTV

Carefully position the

tight.

rear seal

in

place, then apply a

bead

sealant to the block (see illustration).

Make

pan against the block and

oil

pressure

relief valve plug timing chain cover

move the oil cooler (see Section 10). Remove the oil pump cover bolts (see

3 install

the bolts finger

sure the gaskets haven't shifted, then tighten the bolts to the in this Chapter's Specifications. Start at the center of the pan

4

6

Remove

check

all

is

traces

If

warpage

with a straightedge and feeler gauges. it's warped more than 0.0016-inch, replace with a new one. To remove the pressure relief valve, first detach the timing chain cover 7 it

for

If

it

from the engine (see Section then pry

Refer

pump

The

2

Detach the

oil

is

15.7 and 15.12

mounted

oil filter

on the timing chain cover. (see Chapter 1). On supercharged models,

it

out or remove

it

1

0). Drill

a hole

with a slide

in

the plug (see illustration),

hammer and screw

adapter. Re-

move the spring and valve from the bore. Remove all metal chips from the bore and the valve, then check them 8

removal and installation

to illustrations 15.3,

1

illustration).

oil pump cavity. the oil pump gear pocket in damaged or worn, replace the timing chain cover. of gasket material from the oil pump cover, then

Clean and inspect the

5

the timing chain cover

pump -

located inside the

the timing chain cover. Discard the gasket.

and work out toward the ends in a spiral pattern. 25 The remaining steps are the reverse of removal. Caution: Don't forget to refill the engine with oil before starting it (see Chapter 1). 26 Start the engine and check carefully for oil leaks at the oil pan. Drive the vehicle and check again.

Oil

is

Detach the cover and gasket, then remove the gears from the cavity in

torque listed

15

PLACES

the grooves by the rear cap (View A)

The

15.7

filter is

in

2

carefully for wear, score

a

externally

re-

new timing

marks and galling. If the bore is worn or damaged, will be required. The valve should fit in the bore

chain cover

with no noticeable side play or binding.

2

2A-20

Chapter 2 Part

A

Engine

cross pattern. Use a

new

pick-up tube gasket and tighten the mounting

bolts securely.

16

Crankshaft

seals - replacement

oil

Front seal Timing chain cover Refer

in

place

to illustrations 16.3, 16.4, 16.5, 16.6, 16.8

and 16.10

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery terminal. Remove the fan assembly and the shroud (see Chapter 3). 2 3 Remove the drivebelt (see Chapter 1 ). Remove the upper and lower shields (see illustration), if equipped. Mark the crankshaft pulley and vibration damper so they can be reas4 sembled in the same relative position. This is important, since the damper and pulley are initially balanced as a unit. Unbolt and remove the pulley (see illustration). Remove the bolt from the front of the crankshaft, then use a puller to 5 detach the vibration damper (see illustration). Caution: Don't use a pull1

15.12

To detach the pick-up tube, remove the nut and bolts (arrows)

9

If

the spring appears to be fatigued or collapsed, replace

with a

it

new

one. The tension can be measured and compared to the Specifications this 1

first.

Chapter to determine it's condition. Apply clean engine oil to the valve and Insert the spring, then install a

new

in

er with jaws that grip the outer edge of the damper. The puller must be the install

it

in

the bore, small end

plug. Carefully tap

machined surface of the cover. Intermediate shaft removal and installation is covered

it

in until it's

0.01 0-inch below the 11

The oil pump pick-up

1

1

4).

in

Chapter 5

is

inside the

oil

pan. For access, remove the

oil

nut and the two mounting

3

Installation

pump

is

the reverse of removal. Caution

:

Be sure to pack the oil

with petroleum jelly before installing the cover.

between the gears,

cavity and cover.

prime when the engine

is

in this

must

fill

all

voids

isn't done, the pump may fail to a new cover gasket and tighten Chapter's Specifications in a criss-

If this

started. Install

the bolts to the torque listed

It

place

Clean the crankshaft nose and the seal contact surface on the damper with lacquer thinner or acetone. Leave the Woodruff key

in

the crankshaft keyway.

Carefully pry the seal from the cover with a screwdriver or seal remov-

al tool

(see illustration). Be careful not to damage the cover or scratch the

wall of the seal bore.

7

bolts (see illustration). 1

in

6

Remove the pick-up tube

only.

vibration

with the distributor/synchronizer.

pan (see Section

type shown in the illustration that utilizes bolts to apply force to the damper

hub

Check

the seal bore and crankshaft, as well as the seal contact sur-

damper for nicks and burrs. Note: If there's a groove worn in the balancer from contact with the seal, the new seal will probably leak also - a special sleeve can be installed over the balancer to cover this

face on the vibration

groove and prevent

new seal, then

oil

position

leaks. Apply a small it

\

I

in

IPPER SHIELD

FRONT Of

ENGINE

NUT

OIL

PAN

BOLT

LOWER SHIELD

1

6.3

amount

of

oil

to the

lip

of the

the bore with the spring side of the seal facing

Crankshaft pulley/vibration damper components - exploded view

Chapter 2 Part

Mark the pulley and vibration damper before removing the four outer bolts (arrows) and detaching the pulley - the large center bolt is usually very tight, so use a six-point socket and

16.4

breaker bar to loosen

A

2A-21

Engine

16.5

Use a

remove the vibration damper used, the damper will be damaged

bolt-type puller to

jaw-type puller

is

if

a

it

A small amount of oil applied to the outer edge of the new seal will make

IN.

- don't overdo it! Drive the seal into the bore with a large socket and hammer until it's 8 completely seated (see illustration). Select a socket that's the same outside diameter as the seal (a section of pipe can be used if a socket isn't installation easier

available).

Note If anew vibration damper is being installed, balance pins must be located in the new damper in the same relative positions as the original. Also, the pulley must be attached to the damper with the same orientation to the pins as on the original. Apply moly-base grease or clean engine oil to the seal contact surface of the vibration damper and coat the keyway

9

:

(groove) with a thin layer of

RTV sealant.

The keyway in the damper bore must be aligned with the Woodruff key in the crankshaft nose. the damper can't be seated by hand, tap into place with a soft10

Install

the

damper on

the end of the crankshaft.

it

If

hammer (see illustration) or slip a large washer over the bolt, install bolt and tighten to push the damper into place. Remove the large

face the

it

washer, then

install

the bolt and tighten

it

to the torque listed in this

Chap-

ter's Specifications.

Clean the bore, apply a small amount of oil to the outer new seal and drive it squarely into the opening with a large socket and hammer - don't damage the seal in the process and make sure it's completely seated 16.8

edge

of the

16.6

Carefully pry the seal from the cover cover or crankshaft

- avoid damaging the

A soft-face hammer can be used to tap the vibration damper onto the crankshaft - don't use a steel hammer!

16.10

6 4 5 7 8 9 1 2 3

2A-22

Chapter 2 Part

A

Engine

LUBRICATE SEAL AND SEAL MATING SURFACE WITH OIL,

1

7

6.1

If

you're very careful not to

damage the crankshaft

or the

seal bore, the rear seal can be pried out with a screwdriver

normally a special puller

is

used

for this

SEAL (INSTALL WITH SPRING SIDE

-

TOWARD

procedure

ENGINE)

NOTE: REAR FACE OF SEAL MUST BE WITHIN 0.127mm (0.005-INCH) OF THE REAR FACE OF THE BLOCK

16.19 the remaining parts

1

Install

1

Start the engine

removed

and check

for

access

to the seal.

Rear seal installation should be done with the special Ford tool to ensure that the seal isn't damaged

tor leaks at the seal-to-cover joint.

Timing chain cover removed 1 Use a punch or screwdriver and hammer to drive the seal out ot the cover from the back side. Support the cover as close to the seal bore as possible. Be careful not to distort the cover or scratch the wall of the seal bore. If the engine has accumulated a lot of miles, apply penetrating oil to

the seal-to-cover joint on each side and allow

it

to

soak

in

before attempt-

17

Refer

ing to drive the seal out.

Clean the bore to remove any old seal material and corrosion. Supon blocks of wood and position the new seal in the bore with the open end of the seal facing IN. A small amount of oil applied to the outer edge of the new seal will make installation easier- don't overdo it! Drive the seal into the bore with a large socket and hammer until it's 1 completely seated. Select a socket that's the same outside diameter as the seal (a section of pipe can be used a socket isn't available). 1

port the cover

if

Flywheel/driveplate - removal and installation

to illustration

1

7.3

1

Refer to Chapter 7 and remove the transmission.

2

On manual

transmission models, remove the pressure plate and

clutch disc (see Chapter 8).

3

Remove the mounting

bolts

(see illustration).

On manual

transmis-

sion models, jam a large screwdriver against the starter ring gear to

keep

the crankshaft from turning.

back on the flywheel/driveplate to detach from the fairly heavy, so be prepared to catch the weight. The rear cover plate can now be removed, necessary. 4

Pull straight

it

crankshaft. Flywheels are

if

Rear seal Refer

to illustrations

16.17 and 16.19

Refer to Chapter 7 and remove the transmission, then detach the

1

fly-

wheel/driveplate and the rear cover plate from the engine (see Sec-

tion^).

The

can be removed by prying out with a screwdriver (see Be sure to note how far it's recessed into the bore before removing the new seal will have to be recessed an equal amount. Caution Be very careful not to scratch or otherwise damage the crankshaft or 1

old seal

it

illustration). it;

:

the bore in the housing or

oil leaks could develop! Clean the crankshaft and seal bore with lacquer thinner or acetone. Check the seal contact surface very carefully for scratches and nicks that could damage the new seal lip and cause oil leaks. If the crankshaft is 1

alternative is a new or different crankshaft. Make sure the bore is clean, then apply a thin coat of engine oil to the outer edge of the new seal. Apply moly-base grease to the seal lips. The

damaged, the only 1

must be pressed squarely into the bore, so hammering into place is recommended. If you don't have access to Ford tool no. T82L-6701 -A

seal

not

it

(see illustration), you may be able to tap the seal in with a large section of pipe and a hammer. If you must use this method, be very careful not to damage the seal or crankshaft, and carefully work the seal lip over the crankshaft with a blunt tool such as the rounded end of a socket extension.

20

Reinstall the engine rear cover plate, the flywheel/driveplate

transmission.

and the

On automatic transmission driveplates, insert a prybar through a hole to keep the crankshaft from turning when

17.3

loosening/tightening the bolts

1

A

Chapter 2 Part oil seal and replace it if necessary (see Section 1 6). Flywheels/driveplates must not be interchanged between supercharged and non-supercharged engines. If a driveplate with balance riv-

Inspect the rear

5 6

ets

must be replaced,

as the

install

new balance pins/rivets in the same locations

original.

head and the

take the weight

The driveplate must be mounted

pads facing the transmission. Note that the bolt holes are staggered so the driveplate can only fit one way and have the holes align. Use Ford sealant with Teflon (D8AZ-19554-A) or equivalent on the bolt threads and tighten them to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications in a criss-cross pattern. with the torque converter

oil

off

pan, then carefully raise the engine just enough to

the mounts.

Check the mounts

to

see

if

the rubber

is

cracked, hardened or sepa-

Sometimes the rubber will split right down the Rubber preservative may be applied to the mounts to slow deterio-

rated from the metal plates. center.

Installation is the reverse of removal.

7

jack

4

2A-23

Engine

ration.

5

Check for

relative

movement between

the

mount

and the en-

plates

gine or frame (use a large screwdriver or prybar to attempt to

mounts).

If

movement

is

move

noted, lower the engine and tighten the

the

mount

fasteners.

Replacement On non-supercharged models, remove the fan shroud mounting screws and pull up on it, disengaging the shroud from the lower clips. 7 Detach the air cleaner duct. 8 Remove the engine mount through bolts (see illustration) and retaining strap bolt, when equipped. 9 Disconnect the shift linkage where it connects the transmission to the body (see Chapter 7). 10 Remove the accessories and oil cooler line retaining clips from the 6

18

Engine mounts - check and replacement

Refer

to illustration 18.8

Engine mounts seldom require attention, but broken or deteriorated 1 mounts should be replaced immediately or the added strain placed on the driveline components may cause damage.

Check 2

During the check, the engine must be raised

slightly to

remove the

engine mount brackets. 1 Raise the engine high enough to clear the brackets. Do not force the engine up too high. If it touches anything before the mounts are free, re-

wood between pan and subframe as a safety precaution. Note: Left (driver's) side engine mount removal may require lowering the crossmember (see Sec-

weight from the mounts. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the

move

battery.

the

3

Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands, then position oil pan. Place a large block of wood between the

the jack under the engine

the part for clearance. Temporarily place a block of

oil

tion 14).

BOLT

MOUNT

BOLT

TIGHTEN TO 2 REQ'D

47-68

TIGHTEN TO 34-47

Nm

BOLT

Nm

(35-50 LB-FT)

MOUNT ASSY

2 REQ'D 34-47 (25-35 LB-FT)

Nm

(25-35 LB-FT)

STUD TIGHTEN TO 34-47

Nm

HEQ'U TIGHTEN TO

2

(25-35 LB-FT)

34-47

Nm

(25-35 LB-FT)

FRONT SUB-FRAME ASSY STUD TIGHTEN TO

Nm

34-47 (25-35 LB-FT)

BOLT

TIGHTEN TO Nm

3.8L EFI

(35-50 LB-FT)

LH

ENGINE MOUNT

47-68

RH ENGINE

MOUNT 3.8L

1

8.8

SC LH ENGINE MOUNT

Engine mounts - exploded view

2A-24

Chapter 2 Part

Unboltthe mounting bracket from the engine block and remove it from On vehicles equipped with self-locking nuts and bolts, replace them with new ones whenever they are disassembled. Prior to as-

12

the vehicle. Note:

sembly, remove hardened residual adhesive from the engine block holes

an appropriate size bottoming tap. 13 If a new mount is being installed, remove the nut and bracket from the mount and transfer them to the new mount. Remove the two bolts from the with

A

Engine

underside and transfer the bracket to the new mount. 14 Attach the new mount to the engine block and install the bolts and studs in the appropriate locations. Tighten the fasteners securely. 1

5

Lower the engine

into place. Install the

through bolts and tighten the

nuts securely. 1 6 Complete the installation by cess to the mounts.

reinstalling

all

parts

removed

to gain ac-

Chapter 2 Part B General engine overhaul procedures Contents Compression check Crankshaft - inspection Crankshaft - installation and main bearing clearance check

2 oil

22

Crankshaft - removal

13

- cleaning and inspection - disassembly Cylinder head - reassembly Cylinder head

9

Cylinder head

8

Cylinder honing

Engine Engine Engine Engine Engine

block - cleaning block

-

Engine rebuilding alternatives Engine - removal and installation Engine removal - methods and precautions General information Initial start-up and break-in after overhaul Main and connecting rod bearings - inspection Piston/connecting rod assembly - inspection

18

inspection

- disassembly sequence - general information overhaul - reassembly sequence

11

Piston/connecting rod assembly

16 14 15

Piston/connecting rod assembly

rod bearing

Piston rings

-

oil

installation

6 5 1

25 19 17

and 24

clearance check

- removal

12

installation

21

-

23

overhaul

7

Rear main

overhaul

3

Valves - servicing

oil

-

4

seal

installation

10

20

Specifications

General Displacement

3.8

Compression pressure Firing order

101 psi min (see accompanying chart) 1 -4-2-5-3-6

Bore

3.81

in.

(96.8

Stroke

3.39

in.

(86.0

Oil

pressure (engine

warm

at

2500 rpm)

40

liters

to

60

(231 cu

in)

mm) mm)

psi

Maximum

Minimum

Maximum

Minimum

Maximum

Minimum

Maximum

Minimum

PSI

PSI

PSI

PSI

PSI

PSI

PSI

PSI

134

101

164

123

194

145

224

168

136

102

166

124

196

147

226

169

138

104

168

126

198

148

228

171

140

105

170

127

200

150

230

172

142

107

172

129

202

151

232

174

144

i08

174

131

204

153

234

175

146

110

176

132

206

154

236

177

148

111

178

133

208

156

238

178

150

113

180

135

210

157

240

180

152

114

182

136

212

158

242

181

154

115

184

138

214

160

244

183

156

117

186

140

216

162

246

184

218

163

248

186

250

187

158

118

188

141

160

120

190

142

220

165

162

121

192

144

222

166

Cylinder compression variation chart - locate your maximum compression reading on the chart and look to ihe right to find the minimum acceptable compression (then compare it to your lowest reading)

2B-2

Chapter 2 Part B

General engine overhaul procedures

Cylinder head and valve train Head warpage limit Minimum valve margin

0.007 1/32

width

in

in

Intake valve

0.060 to 0.080 in 44.5-degrees 0.003 in (total indicator reading) 0.3423 to 0.341 5 in 0.001 to 0.0028 in 0.002 in 45.8-degrees

Seat width Seat angle Seat runout limit Stem diameter Stem-to-guide clearance Valve face runout

limit

Valve face angle

Exhaust valve Seat width Seat runout limit Seat angle Stem diameter Stem-to-guide clearance Valve face runout

0.060 to 0.080 in 0.003 in (total indicator reading) 44.5-degrees 0.3418 to 0.3410 in 0.001 5 to 0.0033

in

0.002 in 45.8-degrees

limit

Valve face angle

Valve spring

Pressure (not including damper) Valve closed

220 lbs at 1.18 in 85 lbs at 1 .65 in

Free length

Not available

Valve open

Valve

lifter

0.8740

Diameter (standard) Lifter-to-bore clearance Standard Service

limit

0.8745

in

0.0007 to 0.0027 0.005 in

in

to

Crankshaft and connecting rods Connecting rod journal Diameter Out-of-round

2.3103 0.0003 0.0003

limit

Taper limit Bearing oil clearance Desired

in in

per

in

0.001 to 0.0014

0.00086

Allowable

Connecting rod side clearance (endplay) Standard Service

to 2.3111 in

0.0047 0.01 4

limit

to

to

in

0.0027

in

0.0114

in

98

in

in

Main journal Diameter*

Non-supercharged engines (all journals) 1 989 supercharged engines Journals 1 2, and 3 Journal 4 1990 supercharged engines Journals 1 2, and 3 Journal number 4 Out of round limit Taper limit Main bearing oil clearance Non-supercharged engines (all journals) ,

,

1

86

in

2.51 00 to 2.5092

in

2.51 90 to 2.51

98 2.5096

in

04 0.0003 0.0003

in

2.51

94

2.51

to 2.51

to in in

per

in

Desired

0.001 to 0.0014

Allowable

0.0005

to

0.0023

in

0.0009 0.001 4

to

0.0026 0.0032

in

0.0005

to

0.0023 0.0028 0.008 in

in

0.001

to

in

989 supercharged engines Journals 1 2, and 3 ,

Journal 4 1

2.51 90 to 2.51

990 supercharged engines Journals 1 2 and 3 Journal 4 ,

Crankshaft endplay

0.004

to

to

in

in

* Note The crankshaft journals can be machined more than 0.010 inch under the standard dimension. The rear journal on the crankshafts of supercharged engines can't be refinished at all, because it is already 0.010 inch undersize. 't

:

Cylinder bore Diameter Out-of-round

Taper

limit

limit

3.81

in

0.001

in

0.002

in

Chapter 2 Part B

2B-3

General engine overhaul procedures

Pistons and rings Piston diameter

Coded Coded Coded

red

3.8095 to 3.8101 3.8107 to 3.8113 3.8119 to 3.8125

b,ue yellow

Piston-to-bore clearance

in

limit

Non-supercharged engines Supercharged engines Piston ring end gap Top compression ring Bottom compression ring

0.0014 0.0040

to to

0.0032 0.0045

0.011 to 0.012

in

020

in

.009 t0

0ilrin 9

0.01 5 to 0.0583

Piston ring side clearance

0.0016

Torque specifications*

Ft-ibs

Main bearing cap bolts Connecting rod cap nuts

65

1

in in

to

in in

in

0.0034

in

to 81

31 to 36

General information

Included

dures

for

in this portion of Chapter 2 are the general overhaul procethe cylinder heads and internal engine components.

The information ranges from advice concerning preparation for an overhaul and the purchase of replacement parts to detailed, step-by-step procedures covering removal and installation of internal engine components and the inspection of parts. The following procedures have been written based on the assumption that the engine has been removed from the vehicle. For information concerning in-vehicle engine repair, as well as removal and installation of the external components necessary for the overhaul, see Part A of this Chapter and Section 7 of this Part.

The

in Part B are only those necessary and overhaul procedures which follow. Refer to Part A

Specifications included here

for the inspection

for additional Specifications.

2

2.4 A gauge with a threaded fitting for the spark plug hole is preferred over the type that requires hand pressure to maintain

Compression check

the seal during the compression check

Refer

to illustration

2.4

A compression check will

you what mechanical condition the upper end (pistons, rings, valves, head gaskets) of your engine is in. Specifically, can tell you the compression is down due to leakage caused by worn piston rings, defective valves and seats or a blown head gasket. Note: The engine must be at normal operating temperature and the battery must be fully charged for this check. 2 Begin by cleaning the area around the spark plugs before you remove them (compressed air should be used, if available, otherwise a small brush or even a bicycle tire pump will work). The idea is to prevent dirt from getting into the cylinders as the compression check is being done. Remove all of the spark plugs from the engine (see Chapter 1). 3 Block the throttle wide open. On supercharged models, unplug the electrical connector from the ignition coil. On non-supercharged models, unplug the coil-to-distributor wire at the distributor and ground it. 4 With the compression gauge in the number one spark plug hole (see illustration), depress the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor to open the throttle valve. Crank the engine over at least four compression strokes and watch the gauge. The compression should build up quickly in a healthy engine. Low compression on the first stroke, followed by gradually increasing pressure on successive strokes, indicates worn piston rings. A low compression reading on the first stroke, which doesn't build up during successive strokes, indicates leaking valves or a blown head gasket (a cracked head could also be the cause). Record the highest gauge reading 1

it

tell

if

Repeat the procedure

and repeat the test. 7 If the compression increases after the oil is added, the piston rings are definitely worn. If the compression doesn't increase significantly, the leakage is occurring at the valves or head gasket. Leakage past the valves may be caused by burned valve seats and/or faces or warped, cracked or bent valves.

8

If

for the

remaining cylinders and compare the

results to this Chapter's Specifications.

two adjacent cylinders have equally low compression, there's a

strong possibility that the head gasket between them

pearance

of coolant in the

is

blown. The ap-

combustion chambers or the crankcase would

verify this condition. If the compression is unusually high, the combustion chambers are probably coated with carbon deposits. If that's the case, the cylinder heads should be removed and decarbonized.

9

10 If compression is way down or varies greatly between cylinders, it would be a good idea to have a leak-down test performed by an automotive repair shop. This test will pinpoint exactly where the leakage is occurring and how severe it is.

3

Engine overhaul - general information

Refer

obtained.

5

If any of the reading are low, add some engine oil (about three squirts 6 from a plunger-type oil can) to each cylinder, through the spark plug hole,

It's

to illustration 3.4 if, an engine should be comas a number of factors must be considered.

not always easy to determine when, or

pletely overhauled,

2B-4

Chapter 2 Part B

General engine overhaul procedures vice concerning reconditioning

and replacement. Note: Always wait until

the engine has been completely disassembled and all components, especially the engine block, have been inspected before deciding what service and repair operations must be performed by an automotive machine shop. Since the block's condition will be the major factor to consider when deter-

mining whether to overhaul the original engine or buy a rebuilt one, never

purchase parts or have machine work done on other components block has been thoroughly inspected. As a general cost of an overhaul, so

time

is

until

the

the primary

worn or substandard parts. and minimum trouble from a engine, everything must be assembled with care in a spotlessly

As a rebuilt

rule,

final note, to

it

doesn't pay to

ensure

install

maximum

life

clean environment.

Engine rebuilding alternatives

4

Remove the

3.4

gauge

(the

pressure sender and install the oil pressure located near the alternator) - make sure the exactly the same on the tool fitting as the switch oil

sender

thread pitch

is

is

not necessarily an indication that an overhaul

Some

needed, while low mileage doesn't preclude the need for an overhaul. Frequency of servicing is probably the most important consideration. An engine that's had regular and frequent oil and filter changes, as well as other required maintenance, will most likely give many thousands of miles of reliable service. Conversely, a neglected engine may require an overhaul High mileage

very early

is

it

dy the

all

present at the

situation,

same time.

If

a complete tune-up doesn't reme-

major mechanical work

is

the only solution.

An engine overhaul involves restoring the internal parts to the specifications of a new engine. During an overhaul, the piston rings are replaced and the cylinder walls are reconditioned (rebored and/or honed). If a rebore is done, new pistons are required. The main bearings, connecting rod bearings and camshaft bearings are generally replaced with new ones and,

if

necessary, the crankshaft

may be reground to

restore the journals.

Generally, the valves are serviced as well, since they're usually

than-perfect condition at this point. While the engine

is

in

If

the inspection procedures reveal that the engine

individual parts

shaft fully.

in

reusable condition, purchasing

may be the most economical alternative. The block, crank-

and piston/connecting rod assemblies should all be inspected careEven if the block shows little wear, the cylinder bores should be

Crankshaft kit - This rebuild package consists of a reground crankshaft and a matched set of pistons and connecting rods. The pistons will already be installed on the connecting rods. Piston rings and the necessary bearings will be included in the kit. These kits are commonly available for standard cylinder bores, as well as for engine blocks which have been bored to a regular oversize. Short block - A short block consists of an engine block with a crankshaft and piston/connecting rod assemblies already installed. All new bearings are incorporated and all clearances will be correct. The existing camshaft, valve train components, cylinder head(s) and external parts can be bolted to the short block with little or no machine shop work necessary.

Long block.- A

long block consists of a short block plus an

oil

pump,

oil

pan, cylinder heads, valve covers, camshaft and valve train components, timing sprockets with

and chain and timing cover.

All

components are installed

new bearings, seals and gaskets incorporated throughout. The instal-

lation of

manifolds and external parts

is all

that's necessary.

Give careful thought to which alternative is best for you and discuss the situation with local automotive machine shops, auto parts dealers and experienced rebuilders before ordering or purchasing replacement parts.

less-

al-

as well. The end result should be like a new engine that will give many trouble free miles. Note: Critical cooling system components such as the hoses, drivebelts, thermostat and water pump MUST be replaced with new parts when an engine is overhauled. The radiator should be checked carefully to ensure that it isn clogged or leaking; if in doubt, replace it with a new one. Before beginning the engine overhaul, read through the entire procedure to familiarize yourself with the scope and requirements of the job. Overhauling an engine isn't difficult, but it is time consuming. Plan on the vehicle being tied up for a minimum of two weeks, especially if parts must be taken to an automotive machine shop for repair or reconditioning. Check on availability of parts and make sure that any necessary special tools and equipment are obtained in advance. Most work can be done with typical hand tools, although a number of precision measuring tools are required for inspecting parts to determine if they must be replaced. Often an automotive machine shop will handle the inspection of parts and offer ad-

can be

-

block and most engine components are

being overhauled,

other components, such as the distributor or synchronizer, starter and ternator,

Individual parts

surface honed.

in its life.

enced tune-up mechanic to determine the extent of the work required. If the engine is making obvious knocking or rumbling noises, the connecting rod and/or main bearings may be at fault. Check the oil pressure with a gauge installed in place of the oil pressure sending unit or switch (see illustration) and compare to this Chapter's Specifications. If it's extremely low, the bearings and/or oil pump are probably worn out. Loss of power, rough running, excessive valve train noise and high fuel consumption rates may also point to the need for an overhaul, especially they're

of the rebuilding alternatives include:

is

Excessive oil consumption is an indication that piston rings, valve seals and/or valve guides are in need of attention. Make sure that oil leaks aren't responsible before deciding that the rings and/or guides are bad. Have a cylinder compression or leakdown test performed by an experi-

if

The do-it-yourselfer is faced with a number of options when performing an engine overhaul. The decision to replace the engine block, piston/connecting rod assemblies and crankshaft depends on a number of factors, with the number one consideration being the condition of the block. Other considerations are cost, access to machine shop facilities, parts availability, time required to complete the project and the extent of prior mechanical experience on the part of the do-it-yourselfer.

Engine removal - methods and precautions

5

rebuilt

't

you've decided that the engine must be removed for overhaul or mawork, several preliminary steps should be taken. Locating a place to work is extremely important. Adequate work space, If

jor repair

along with storage space for the vehicle,

rage of

isn't available, at

concrete or asphalt

will

be needed.

If

a shop or ga-

the very least a flat, level, clean work surface is

made

required.

Cleaning the engine compartment and engine before beginning the removal procedure will help keep tools clean and organized. An engine hoist or A-frame will also be necessary. Make sure the equipment is rated in excess of the combined weight of the engine and accessories. Safety

is

of primary importance, considering the potential haz-

the engine out of the vehicle. being removed by a novice, a helper should be available. Advice and aid from someone more experienced would also be helpful. There are many instances when one person cannot simultaneously

ards involved If

in lifting

the engine

is

2 6 7 8

Chapter 2 Part B

6.21

Make sure the chain

and watch

that

it

is securely attached to the engine doesn't catch on any accessories when the

engine

perform

all

is

of the operations required

Raise the engine and check for any wires or hoses that still need to be disconnected

6.22

may

raised

when lifting the engine out of the ve-

hicle.

Disconnect all coolant hoses which connect the engine to the vehicle. Remove the cooling fan, shroud and radiator (see Chapter 3). On models equipped with a supercharger, remove the intercooler and asso-

6

7

Plan the operation ahead of time. Arrange for or obtain all of the tools and equipment you'll need prior to beginning the job. Some of the equipment necessary to perform engine removal and installation safely and with relative ease are (in addition to an engine hoist) a heavy duty floor jack, complete sets of wrenches and sockets as described at the front of this manual, wood blocks and plenty of rags and cleaning solvent for mopping up spilled oil, coolant and gasoline. If the hoist must be rented, make sure you arrange for in advance and perform all of the operations possible without it ahead of time. This will save you money and time. Plan for the vehicle to be out of use for quite a while. A machine shop will be required to perform some of the work the do-it-yourselfer can't accomplish without special equipment. They often have a busy schedule, so would be a good idea to consult them before removing the engine in order to accurately estimate the amount of time required to rebuild or repair components that may need work. Always be extremely careful when removing and installing the engine. Serious injury can result from careless actions. Plan ahead, take your time and a job of this nature, although major, can be accomplished successit

it

fully.

ciated lines

and the Supercharger (see Chapter

8

Remove

9

Label the

the drivebelts (see Chapter

vacuum

lines,

Engine - removal and

4).

1 ).

emission hoses,

electrical

connectors,

ground straps and fuel lines to ensure correct reinstallation. Pieces of masking tape with numbers written on them work well. 10 Carefully disconnect the vacuum lines, emission hoses, fuel lines, ground straps and electrical connectors attached to the engine. Refer to Chapters 4, 5 and 6 as needed. Note: Disconnect the ground wire assembly and coil wire assembly except on supercharged models. Disconnect the DIS module wiring on supercharged models. 11 Disconnect the accelerator cable and TV linkage from the throttle body (see Chapter 4) and tie it out of the way. 1 On airconditioned equipped vehicles, unboltthe compressorfrom the bracket (see Chapter 3) and set it aside without disconnecting the hoses. 13 On power steering equipped vehicles, unbolt the power steering pump from the bracket and set aside without disconnecting the hoses (except supercharged engines). Make sure it stays upright. 14 Remove the starter motor (see Chapter 5). On non-supercharged it

models, disconnect the alternator

6

2B-5

General engine overhaul procedures

to voltage regulator wiring.

On

super-

charged models remove the alternator (see Chapter 5). 15 Unbolt the exhaust system from the exhaust manifolds (see Chapinstallation ter 4). 1

Refer to

illustrations 6.21,

Warning:

6.22 and 6.24

DO NOT place any part of your body under the engine when

On

it's

supported by a hoist or other lifting device. Hoist failure could result in severe injury or death! Sudden discharge of the air conditioning system can cause severe injuries, especially to the eyes. Have a service station or air conditioning shop discharge the system prior to disconnecting any A/C system components.

automatic transmission equipped models, disconnect the cooler

from the

lines

inlet

inspection cover.

and

outlet tubes, then

Remove

remove the converter housing

the torque converter-to-driveplate fasteners

and push the converter back slightly toward the transmission, using only light pressure (don't use excessive force). 1 1

Remove the bellhousing-to-engine block bolts. Remove the through bolts from the engine mounts (see Chapter 2A).

to be sure nothing is still connecting the engine to the veDisconnect anything still remaining. 20 Lower the vehicle and then support the transmission with a floor jack. Place a block of wood between them to prevent damage. 21 Attach an engine lifting sling or chain to the lifting brackets on the en-

19

Recheck

hicle.

Removal Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. Place fender covers over the fenders and cowl and remove the hood (see Chapter 11). 3 Remove the air cleaner and throttle body assembly (see Chapter 4). 4 Drain the cooling system and engine oil and remove the oil filter (see Chapter 1). 5 Relieve the fuel pressure from the fuel injection system and disconnect the fuel lines connecting the engine to the chassis (see Chapter 4). 1

2

Plug or cap

all

open

lines

and

fittings.

a hoist and connect the sling or chain to it. Take up the slack on the hoist (see illustration). 22 Raise the engine slightly and carefully pull it away from the transmission. Slowly raise the engine out of the engine compartment. Avoid snagging or bending anything as you lift the engine out (see illustration). 23 Place the engine on a strong workbench or remove the flywheel/driveplate and mount the engine on an engine stand. gine. Position until

there's slight tension

2B-6

Chapter 2 Part B

Support the transmission

6.24

a pipe through the frame holes

General engine overhaul procedures

after engine removal by slipping and threading two bolts into the

Use a valve spring compressor to compress the then remove the keepers from the valve stem

8.3

spring,

transmission (arrows)

Water pump Supercharger

Following engine removal, place a pipe across the frame and support

24

the transmission with bolts (see illustration).

(if

equipped)

Intake/exhaust manifolds

Installation Reposition the floor jack under the transmission and remove the sup-

25

Oil

Carefully lower the engine into the engine compartment, ensuring

exhaust system lines up. 27 On automatic transmission equipped models, guide the torque converter pilot into the crankshaft, following the procedure outlined in Chapthat the

ter?.

28

and flywheel or driveplate

Clutch

When removing

Note:

transmission equipped models, use a clutch alignment

pressure plate (see Chapter

then guide the transmis-

7),

sion shaft into the crankshaft pilot bearing until

slips in

it

all

the

way

(the

bellhousing must be flush with the engine block). Install

NOT use

them securely. Caution: DO the transmission and engine into alignment!

the bellhousing bolts and tighten

the bolts to force

You may crack or damage major components. 30 Reinstall the remaining components and fasteners in the reverse order of removal. Note: Refer to Chapter 4 when installing the supercharger, intercooler and associated components. 31 Add coolant, oil, power steering and transmission fluids as needed. 32 Run the engine and check for proper operation and leaks. Correct as needed.

the external

close attention to details that

components from the engine, pay

may be

helpful or important during reas-

sembly. Note the installed position of gaskets, seals, spacers, pins, wash-

and other small items.

ers, bolts

On manual

tool to install the

29

filter

Engine mounts

port.

26

and related components

EFI components

4

If

you're installing a short block, which consists of the engine block,

crankshaft, pistons

heads,

pan and

oil

and connecting rods all assembled, then the cylinder pump will have to be removed as well. See Engine

oil

rebuilding alternatives for additional information regarding the different possibilities to

5

If

be considered.

you're planning a complete overhaul, the engine must be disas-

sembled and the internal components removed in the following general order:

Clutch

and

flywheel or driveplate

Valve covers Intake

and exhaust manifolds

Rocker arms and pushrods Valve

lifters

Cylinder heads

7

Timing chain cover and

Engine overhaul - disassembly sequence

much easierto disassemble and work on the engine it's mounted on a portable engine stand. A stand can often be rented quite cheaply from 1

It's

if

an equipment rental yard. Before the engine is mounted on a stand, the flywheel/driveplate should be removed from the crankshaft. If a stand isn't available, it's possible to disassemble the engine with it 2 blocked up on a sturdy workbench or on the floor. Be extra careful not to tip or drop the engine when working without a stand. If you're going to buy a rebuilt engine, all external components must 3 come off first, to be transferred to the replacement engine, just as they will if you're doing a complete engine overhaul yourself. They include:

compressor and brackets

Power steering pump and brackets Emissions control components Distributor or synchronizer, spark plug wires

Thermostat and housing cover

pump

Camshaft Oil pan Piston/connecting rod assemblies

Crankshaft and main bearings Critical cooling system components such as the hoses, drivebelts, 6 thermostat and water pump MUST be replaced with new parts when an

engine is overhauled. 7 Before beginning the disassembly and overhaul procedures, make sure the following items are available:

Common hand tools Small cardboard boxes or plastic bags Gasket scraper Ridge reamer

Alternator and brackets Air conditioning

oil

Timing chain and sprockets

Vibration

and spark plugs

damper puller

Micrometers Telescoping gauges

for storing parts

1 2

Chapter 2 Part B

the valve won't pull through the guide, deburr the edge of the stem end 8.4

9.1 2 Check the cylinder head gasket surface for warpage by trying to slip a feeler gauge under the straightedge (see this Chapter's Specifications for the maximum warpage allowed and use a feeler gauge of that thickness)

A

small plastic bag, with an appropriate label, can be used to store the valve train components so they can

If

8.5

and the area around the top of the file or whetstone

keeper groove with a

be kept together and reinstalled

in

the

original location

Dial indicator set

ponents, followed by a detailed inspection,

Valve spring compressor

much

Cylinder surfacing

2B-7

General engine overhaul procedures

will

enable you

to

decide

how

valve service work must be done during the engine overhaul.

hone

Piston ring groove cleaning tool drill motor Tap and die set Wire brushes Oil gallery brushes Cleaning solvent

Cleaning

Electric

Scrape all traces of old gasket material and sealing compound off the head gasket, intake manifold and exhaust manifold sealing surfaces.

2 3

Remove

4

Run a stiff wire brush through the oil holes to remove any deposits that

built-up scale

may have formed Cylinder head - disassembly

Refer

to illustrations 8.3, 8.4

tools

and 8.5

protection

are necessary for the disassembly and inspection

procedures, and replacement parts may not be readily available,

more

practical

and economical

for the

home mechanic

placement heads rather than taking the time

to

to

it

may be

purchase

re-

disassemble, inspect and

recondition the originals.

2

Remove Remove

3

Compress the valve springs with a valve spring compressor. Remove

1

the rocker

arms (see Part

A).

chambers and valve heads with a scraper and a wire brush before removing the valves. Caution: Be careful not to scratch the gasket surfaces. the deposits from the combustion

the keepers and release the springs (see illustration).

4

Remove

valve.

the retainer (or rotator), spring assembly and seal from the

The valve can now be removed through

the valve binds

in

the guide

(will

the bottom of the head.

not pull through), push

it

back

If

into the

head and deburr the area around the end of the stem with a fine file or whetstone (see illustration). 5 Repeattheprocedurefortheremainingvalves.Remembertokeepall the parts for each valve together so they can be reinstalled in the same locations (see illustration). 6 Once the valves have been removed and stored in an organized manner, the head should be thoroughly cleaned and inspected. If a complete engine overhaul is being done, finish the engine disassembly procedures before beginning the cylinder head cleaning and inspection process.

when using compressed air!

Clean the rocker arm pivot bolt threads with a wire brush. 7 Clean the cylinder head with solvent and dry it thoroughly. Compressed air will speed the drying process and ensure that all holes and recessed areas are clean. Note: Decarbonizing chemicals are available and may prove very useful when cleaning cylinder heads and valve traincomponents. They are very caustic and should be used with caution. Be sure to follow the instructions on the container. Clean the rocker arms, f ulcrums, bolts and pushrods with solvent and 8 dry them thoroughly. Compressed air will speed the drying process and can be used to clean out the oil passages. Clean all the valve springs, keepers, retainers, rotators, sleeves and 9 shims with solvent and dry them thoroughly. Do the components from one valve at a time to avoid mixing up the parts. 1 Scrape off any heavy deposits that may have formed on the valves, then use a motorized wire brush to remove deposits from the valve heads and stems. Again, make sure the valves do not get mixed up. 6

Inspection Cylinder head 1 Inspect the head very carefully for cracks, evidence of coolant leakage and other damage. If cracks are found, a new cylinder head should be

obtained.

Using a straightedge and feeler gauge, check the head gasket mating 1 surfaces for warpage (see illustration). If the warpage exceeds specifications, the

Note 9

Cylinder head - cleaning and inspection

1

to illustrations 9. 12, 9. 14, 9.20, 9.21a,

Thorough cleaning

of the cylinder

9.21b and 9.22

heads and

:

If

head can be resurfaced

at

an automotive machine shop.

the heads are resurfaced, the intake manifold flanges

will

also re-

quire machining.

13

Refer

them.

into

it

Note: New and rebuilt cylinder heads are commonly available for most engines at dealerships and auto parts stores. Due to the fact that some specialized

in

each of the threaded holes to remove corrosion and thread sealant that may be present. If compressed air is available, use to clear the holes of debris produced by this operation. Warning: Wear eye 5

8

Run a tap

from the coolant passages.

related valve train

Examine the valve seats

each of the combustion chambers. If head will require valve service that's the home mechanic. in

they're pitted, cracked or burned, the

com-

beyond the scope

of

4 7

2B-8

Chapter 2 Part B

A dial indicator can be used to determine the valve stem-to-guide clearance (move the valve stem as indicated by the arrows)

The margin width on each valve must be as specified (if no margin

9.20

9.14

Check each valve spring

9.21b

General engine overhaul procedures

exists, the valve

cannot be reused)

9.22 The exhaust valve rotators can be checked by turning the inner and outer sections in opposite directions -

for

squareness

feel for

9.21 a Measure the free length of each valve spring with a dial or vernier caliper

smooth movement and

Apply a small dab of grease to each keeper as shown here before installation - it will hold them in place on the valve stem as the spring is released 11.5

excessive play 1 Check the valve stem-to-valve guide clearance. Use adial indicatorto measure the lateral movement of each valve stem, parallel to the rocker arm, with the valve in the guide and approximately 1/16-inch off the seat (see illustration). The valve stem-to-guide clearance is one-half the dial

Compare

indicator reading.

clearance

in this

some doubt

If,

after this check, there is

all

guides can be checked by an automotive machine a very small fee.

of the

shop, usually for

the parts thoroughly.

Make

sure that

all oil

passages are

Valve components 16 Check the rocker arm faces for pits, wear, galling and rough Check the pivot contact areas as well as the fulcrums. 1

still

as to the condition of the valve guides, the exact clearance

and condition 15 Clean open.

the reading to the desired stem-to-guide

Chapter's Specifications.

spots.

flat

surface, like a piece of plate glass, to determine

if

it's

bent.

18 Any ones.

damaged

or excessively

worn parts must be replaced with new

Valves 19

Carefully inspect

each valve face

Check the valve stem and neck

for cracks, pits

for cracks.

and burned spots.

Rotate each valve and check

any obvious indication that it's bent. Check the end of the stem for pits and excessive wear. The presence of any of these conditions indicates the

for

Valve train components 21 Check each valve spring

wear on the ends and pits. Measure the and compare it to this Chapter's Specifications. Any springs that are shorter than specified have sagged and should not be reused. Check each valve spring for squareness (see illustration). 22 Check the spring retainers and keepers for obvious wear and cracks. Make sure the rotators operate smoothly with no binding or excessive play (see illustration). Any questionable parts should be replaced with new for

free length (see illustration)

ones, as extensive damage

Inspect the pushrod ends for scuffing and excessive wear. Roll each

pushrod on a

need for valve service by a machine shop. 20 Measure the width of the valve margin on each valve (see illustration) and compare it to the Specifications. Any valve with a margin narrower than listed in this Chapter's Specifications will have to be replaced with a new one.

will

occur

in

the event of failure during engine

operation.

components are

in

generally poor condition and worn beyond the limits specified, which

is

23

If

the inspection process indicates that the valve

an engine that is being overhauled, reassemble the valves in the cylinder head and refer to Section 1 for valve servicing recommendations. 24 If the inspection turns up no excessively worn parts, and if the valve faces and seats are in good condition, the valve train components can be reinstalled in the cylinder head without major servicing. Refer to the appropriate Section for cylinder head reassembly procedures. usually the case

in

Chapter 2 Part B

2B-9

General engine overhaul procedures

11

Cylinder head - reassembly

Refer

and

to illustrations 11.5

11.6

Regardless of whether or not the head was sent to an automotive repair shop for valve servicing, make sure it's clean before beginning reas1

sembly. 2 the head was sent out for valve servicing, the valves and related components will already be in place. Lubricate and install the valves, then install new seals on each of the 3 valve guides. Using a hammer and a deep socket, gently tap each seal into If

place

until it's

properly seated on the guide. Don't twist or cock the seals

during installation or they

will

not seal properly on the valve stems. Note:

Because the intake and exhaust valves exhibit different leakage rates, the valve stem seals must NOT be interchanged. 4

Install

the valve spring shim(s)

and set the valve intake valves)

Be sure

11.6

valve (the

check the valve spring installed height for each distance from the top of the seat/shims to the

to

underside of the retainer)

Compress

Check the installed valve spring height (see illustration).

install

reassembly

Because

complex nature

and the special tools and equipment needed, servicing of the valves, the valve seats and the valve of the

should

it

additional valve spring

height to within the specified

7 1

of the job

commonly known as a valve job, is best left to a shop. The home mechanic can remove and disassemble the head, do the initial cleaning and inspection, then reassemble and deliver the head to a

and sleeve (used on some

place.

sor,

rect before

Valves - servicing

required) over the valve guide boss

the spring and install the keepers. Release the compresmaking sure the keepers are seated properly in the valve stem grooves. If necessary, grease can be used to hold the keepers in place until the compressor is released (see illustration).

5

6

1

in

(if

spring, retainer (or rotator)

Install

still

be within the specified

If it

limits.

shims (available from a dealer)

was corIf it

isn't,

to bring the

limit.

the rocker arms, fulcrums and bolts.

Be sure

to lubricate the

fulcrums with moly base grease or engine assembly lube.

guides,

2

12

Piston/connecting rod assembly - removal

dealer service department or an automotive machine shop for the actual

and

valve servicing.

Refer

The dealer service department, or automotive machine shop, will remove the valves and springs, recondition or replace the valves and valve

Note: Prior to removing the piston/connecting rod assemblies, remove the cylinder heads, the oil pan and the oil pickup by referring to the appropriate

3

seats, recondition the valve guides,

check and replace the valve springs,

spring retainers (or rotators) and keepers (as necessary), replace the

valve seals with

new ones, reassemble the valve components and make

The cylinder head gasket surwarped. 4 After the valve job has been performed by a shop the head will be in like new condition. When the head is returned, be sure to clean it again before installation on the engine to remove any metal particles and abrasive grit that may still be present from the valve service or head resurfacing operations. Use compressed air, if available, to blow out all the oil holes and passages. sure the installed spring height

face

will

also be resurfaced

12.1

top of

A

if

it

is

correct.

is

ridge reamer is required to

each cylinder - do

this

remove the ridge from the

before removing the pistons!

to illustrations 12.

Sections

in

1,

12.3

Chapter 2, Part

12.5

A.

Completely remove the ridge at the top of each cylinder with a ridge reaming tool (see illustration). Follow the manufacturer's instructions 1

provided with the

move

tool. Failure to

remove the

ridge before attempting to re-

the piston/connecting rod assemblies

may

result in piston break-

age. 2

After the cylinder ridges

down so 3

the crankshaft

is

have been removed, turn the engine upside-

facing up.

Before the connecting rods are removed, check the endplay with

feel-

them between each connecting rod and the crankshaft the play is removed (see illustration). The endplay is equal to

er gauges. Slide

throw

until

12.3

Check the connecting rod side clearance with a gauge as shown

feeler

2B-10

Chapter 2 Part B

1 2.5 To prevent damage to the crankshaft journals and cylinder walls, slip sections of rubber or plastic hose over the rod bolts before removing the pistons

13.1

General engine overhaul procedures

Checking crankshaft endplay

If the endplay exceeds the service be required. If new rods (or a new crankshaft) are installed, the endplay may fall under the specified minimum (if it does, the rods will have to be machined to restore it - consult an automotive machine shop for advice if necessary). Repeat the procedure for the

the thickness of the feeler gauge(s). limit,

new connecting

rods

13.3

Checking crankshaft endplay

with a dial indicator

will

with a feeler

bearing inserts

in

place

until

reassembly

will

gauge

help prevent the connecting

rod bearing surfaces from being accidentally nicked or gouged.

1

Crankshaft - removal

3

remaining connecting rods. 4 Check the connecting rods and caps

for identification marks. If they marked, use a small center punch to make the appropriate number of indentations on each rod and cap (1 -6, depending on the cylin-

aren't plainly

der they're associated with).

5

Loosen each

of the

connecting rod cap nuts 1/2-turn at a time until Remove the number one connecting rod

they can be removed by hand.

cap and bearing

insert. Don't

drop the bearing insert out of the cap. Slip a each connecting rod cap bolt to

Refer

to illustrations 13.1, 13.3,

Before the crankshaft

1

stem

is

dicator with the

and cylinder wall as the piston is removed (see illustration). Push the connecting rod/piston assembly out through the top of the engine. Use a wooden hammer handle to push on the upper bearing insert in the connecting rod. If resistance is felt, double-check to make sure that all of the ridge was removed from the cylinder.

crank throws (see illustration).

Repeat the procedure for the remaining cylinders. After removal, reassemble the connecting rod caps and bearing inserts in their respective connecting rods and install the cap nuts finger tight. Leaving the old 6

13.4a Use a center punch or number stamping dies to mark the main bearing caps to ensure installation in their original locations on the block (make the punch marks near one of the bolt heads)

and 13.4b

removed, check the endplay. Mount a dial inand just touching one of the

short length of plastic or rubber hose over protect the crankshaft journal

13.4a

Note: The crankshaft can be removed only after the engine has been removed from the vehicle. It s assumed that the flywheel or driveplate, vibration damper, timing chain, oil pan, oil pump and piston/connecting rod assemblies have already been removed. inline with the crankshaft

Push the crankshaft

2

all

the

way to the

rear

and zero the

dial indicator.

Next, pry the crankshaft to the front as far as possible and check the reading

on the

dial indicator.

The distance

that

it

moves

is

the endplay.

greater than specified, check the crankshaft thrust surfaces for wear.

wear 3 or

is

If

evident,

new main bearings should

If

If

it's

no

correct the endplay.

a dial indicator isn't available, feeler gauges can be used. Gently pry all the way to the front of the engine. Slip feeler

push the crankshaft

13.4b

The arrow on the main bearing cap indicates the front of the engine

1 2

Chapter 2 Part B

General engine overhaul procedures

14.8 All bolt holes in the block - particularly the main bearing cap and head bolt holes - should be cleaned and restored with a tap (be sure to remove debris from the holes after this is done)

A

14.10

large socket

2B-11

on an extension can be used

new core plugs

into the

to drive the

bores

gauges between the crankshaft and the front face of the thrust main bear-

auto parts stores. Flush the passages with

determine the clearance (see illustration). 4 Check the main bearing caps to see if they're marked to indicate their locations. They should be numbered consecutively from the front of the engine to the rear. If they aren't, mark them with number stamping dies or a

machined surfaces with a light, you have access to compressed air, use it to speed the drying process and to blow out all the oil holes and galleries. Warning Wear eye protection when using compressed air! If the block isn't extremely dirty or sludged up, you can do an adequate 7 cleaning job with hot soapy water and a stiff brush. Take plenty of time and do a thorough job. Regardless of the cleaning method used, be sure to clean all oil holes and galleries very thoroughly, dry the block completely and coat all machined surfaces with light oil. 8 The threaded holes in the block must be clean to ensure accurate torque readings during reassembly. Run the proper size tap into each of the holes to remove any rust, corrosion, thread sealant or sludge and to restore any damaged threads (see illustration). If possible, use compressed air to clear the holes of debris produced by this operation. Now is a good time to clean the threads on the head bolts and the main bearing cap bolts as well. 9 Reinstall the main bearing caps and tighten the bolts finger tight.

ing to

center punch (see illustration). Main bearing caps generally have a castin arrow, which points to the front of the engine (see illustration). Loosen

each of the main bearing cap bolts 1 /4-turn at a time each, until they can be removed by hand. 5 Gently tap the caps with a soft-face hammer, then separate them from the engine block. If necessary, use the bolts as levers to remove the caps. Try not to drop the bearing inserts

if

they

come

out with the caps.

It's a good idea to have an assistant available, since the crankshaft is quite heavy. With the bearing inserts in place in the engine block and main bearing caps, return the caps to their respective locations on the engine block and tighten the bolts finger tight. Note: Do not refinish the crankshaft journals to more than 0.010 in. (0.25 mm). Further main journal refinishing may cause fatigue failure of the crankshaft. On Supercharged engines, do not refinish the crankshaft at all as the journals are already undersize 0.010 in.

6

Carefully

lift

the crankshaft out of the engine.

clear, dry the

block thoroughly and wipe

rust preventative

oil.

warm water until the water runs

all

If

:

After coating the sealing surfaces of the

1

lant, install

them

in

new core plugs with RTV seaMake sure they're

the engine block (see illustration).

driven in straight and seated properly or leakage could result. Special tools

are available for this purpose, but equally good results can be obtained

using a large socket, with an outside diameter that will just slip into the core

14

Engine block - cleaning

a 1/2-inch drive extension and a hammer. Apply non-hardening sealant (such as Permatex number 2 or Teflon tape) to the new oil gallery plugs and thread them into the holes at the rear of the block. Make sure they're tightened securely. 1 If the engine isn't going to be reassembled right away, cover it with a plug, 1

Refer 1

to illustrations 14.8

Drill

a small hole

in

and 14.10

the center of each core plug and

pull

them out with

an auto body type dent puller. Note; The core plugs (also known as freeze or soft plugs)

large plastic trash

maybe difficult or impossible to retrieve if they're driven into

bag

to

keep

it

clean.

the block coolant passages.

Using a gasket scraper, remove all traces of gasket material from the engine block. Be very careful not to nick or gouge the gasket sealing sur2

faces.

3

1

5

Engine block - inspection

Remove the main bearing caps and separate the bearing inserts from

the caps and the engine block. Tag the bearings, indicating which cylinder they were removed from and whether they were in the cap or the block,

then set them aside. 4 Remove all of the threaded

The plugs are

usually very tight

Refer

gallery plugs from the rear of the block.

- they may have to be drilled out and the new ones when the engine is

holes retapped. Discard the plugs and use

reassembled. 5 If the engine is extremely dirty it should be taken to an automotive machine shop to be steam cleaned or hot tanked. 6 After the block is returned, clean all oil holes and oil galleries one more time. Brushes specifically designed for this purpose are available at most

15.4b

and 15.4c

is inspected, it should be cleaned as described in Double-check to make sure the ridge at the top of each cylinder has been completely removed. Visually check the block for cracks, rust and corrosion. Look for 2 stripped threads in the threaded holes. It's also a good idea to have the block checked for hidden cracks by an automotive machine shop that has the special equipment to do this type of work. If defects are found, have the 1

oil

to illustrations 15.4a,

Before the block

Section

1

4.

block repaired,

3

Check

if

possible, or replaced.

the cylinder bores for scuffing and scoring.

2B-12

Chapter 2 Part B

Measure the diameter of each 1 5.4a cylinder just under the wear ridge (A), at the center (B) and at the bottom (C)

4

General engine overhaul procedures

1 5.4b The ability to "feel" when the telescoping gauge is at the correct point will be developed over time, so work slowly and repeat the check until you're satisfied the bore measurement is accurate

Measure the diameter of each cylinder at the top (just under the ridge and bottom of the cylinder bore, parallel to the crankshaft (see illustrations). Next, measure each cylinder's diameter at the

area), center

axis

same this

three locations across the crankshaft axis.

Chapter's Specifications.

If

Compare

the results to

the cylinder walls are badly scuffed or

15.4c The gauge is then measured with a micrometer to determine the bore size

beyond the limits given in the have the engine block rebored and honed at an automotive machine shop. If a rebore is done, oversize pistons and rings will be rescored, or

if

they're out-of-round or tapered

Specifications,

quired. Note: Pistons are available for service in standard sizes

and over-

The standard size pistons are color-coded red, blue or yellow on the dome of the piston. Measure the cylinder bore diameter and select the pis-

size.

ton to ensure the proper clearance.

When the bore diameter is in the lower When the

one-third of the specified range, a red piston should be used.

bore diameter is in the middle one-third of the clearance range, a blue piston should be used. When the bore diameter is in the upper one-third, a yellow piston should be used. If the cylinders are in reasonably good condition and not worn to the 5 outside of the limits, and if the piston-to-cylinder clearances can be maintained properly, then they don't have to be rebored. Honing is all that's necessary (see Section 16).

16

Cylinder honing

Refer 1

to illustrations 16.3a

Prior to

and 16.3b

engine reassembly, the cylinder bores must be honed so the

new piston

rings will seat correctly and provide the best possible combuschamber seal. Note: If you don't have the tools or don't want to tackle the honing operation, most automotive machine shops will do it for a rea-

tion

16.3a

A

"bottle

brush" hone will produce better results never honed cylinders before

if

you've

sonable 2

CROSSHATCH PATTERN

fee.

Before honing the cylinders,

the bolts to the torque listed

3

install

in this

the main bearing caps and tighten

Chapter's Specifications.

Two types of cylinder hones are commonly available - the flex hone or

brush" type and the more traditional surfacing hone with springloaded stones. Both will do the job, but for the less experienced mechanic the "bottle brush" hone will probably be easier to use. You'll also need plenty of light oil or honing oil, some rags and an electric drill motor. Pro"bottle

ceed as follows: a) Mount the hone

in

the

into the first cylinder

drill motor, compress the stones and slip it (see illustration). Be sure to wear safety

goggles or a face shield! b)

Lubricate the cylinder with plenty of the hone up-and-down

oil,

turn

on the

drill

the cylinder at a pace that

and move

will

produce

Crosshatch pattern on the cylinder walls. Ideally, the crosshatch lines should intersect at approximately a 60-degree angles (see illustration). Be sure to use plenty of lubricant and don't take off any more material than is absolutely necessary to produce the

a

16.3b The cylinder hone should leave a smooth, Crosshatch pattern with the lines intersecting at approximately a 60-degree angle

in

fine

desired

finish.

Note: Piston ring manufacturers

may

specify a

smaller Crosshatch angle than the traditional 60-degrees and follow any instructions included with the new rings.

- read

.

Chapter 2 Part B

17.4a

The piston

ring tool,

grooves can be cleaned with a special as shown here, .

stead, shut in

off

the cylinder

the

17.4b

it's

running.

In-

and continue moving the hone up-and-down it comes to a complete stop, then compress the

drill

until

stones and withdraw the hone. If you're using a "bottle brush" type hone, stop the drill motor, then turn the chuck in the normal direction of rotation while d)

Wipe the

oil

withdrawing the hone from the cylinder.

out of the cylinder and repeat the procedure for the re-

maining cylinders. 4 After the honing job is complete, chamfer the top edges of the cylinder bores with a small file so the rings won't catch when the pistons are in-

Be very careful not to nick the cylinder walls with the end of the file! The entire engine block must be washed again very thoroughly with warm, soapy water to remove all traces of the abrasive grit produced during the honing operation. Note: The bores can be considered clean when a white cloth - dampened with clean engine oil -used to wipe them down doesn 'tpick up any more honing residue, which will show up as gray areas on the cloth. Be sure to run a brush through all oil holes and galleries and flush them with running water. stalled.

5

and apply a coat of light rust preventive oil machined surfaces. Wrap the block in a plastic trash bag to keep clean and set aside until reassembly. 6

to

After rinsing, dry the block

all

it

it

17

broken ring

and the engine block is not rebored, new pistons won't be necessary. Normal piston wear appears as even vertical wear on the piston thrust surfaces and slight looseness of the top ring in its groove. New piston rings, on the other hand, should always be used when an engine is rebuilt. 7 Carefully inspect each piston for cracks around the skirt, at the pin bosses and at the ring lands. 8 Look for scoring and scuffing on the thrust faces of the skirt, holes in the piston crown and burned areas at the edge of the crown. If the skirt is scored or scuffed, the engine may have been suffering from overheating and/or abnormal combustion, which caused excessively high operating temperatures. The cooling and lubrication systems should be checked thoroughly. A hole in the piston crown is an indication that abnormal combustion (preignition) was occurring. Burned areas at the edge of the piston crown are usually evidence of spark knock (detonation). If any of the above problems exist, the causes must be corrected or the damage will if

occur again. 9

Corrosion of the piston,

is

leaking into the combustion

in

the form of small

pits,

indicates that coolant

chamber and/or the crankcase. Again, the

cause must be corrected or the problem may persist in the rebuilt engine. 1 Measure the piston ring side clearance by laying a new piston ring in each ring groove and slipping a feeler gauge in beside (see illustration). Check the clearance at three or four locations around each groove. Be sure to use the correct ring for each groove; they are different. If the side clearance is greater than specified, new pistons will have to be used. it

Piston/connecting rod assembly - inspection

Refer 1

... or a section of a

.

Don't withdraw the hone from the cylinder while

c)

2B-13

General engine overhaul procedures

to illustrations

1

7.4a,

1

7.4b, 17.10

and

17.11

Before the inspection process can be carried out, the piston/connect-

ing rod assemblies must be cleaned and the original piston rings removed from the pistons. Note: Always use new piston rings when the engine is reassembled. 2 Using a piston ring installation tool, carefully remove the rings from

the pistons.

Be

careful not to nick or

gouge the pistons

in

the process.

Scrape all traces of carbon from the top of the piston. A handheld wire brush or a piece of fine emery cloth can be used once the majority of the deposits have been scraped away. Do not, under any circumstances, use a wire brush mounted in a drill motor to remove deposits from the pistons. The piston material is soft and may be eroded away by the wire brush. 4 Use a piston ring groove cleaning tool to remove carbon deposits from the ring grooves. If a tool isn't available, a piece broken off the old ring will do the job. Be very careful to remove only the carbon deposits - don't remove any metal and don't nick or scratch the sides of the ring grooves 3

(see illustrations). 5 Once the deposits have been removed, clean the piston/rod assem-

and dry them with compressed air (if available). Make sure the oil return holes in the back sides of the ring grooves are clear. If the pistons and cylinder walls aren't damaged or worn excessively, 6 blies with solvent

17.10

Check the

ring side clearance with a feeler several points around the groove

gauge

at

4 2 3 1

2B-14

Chapter 2 Part B

Measure the piston diameter at a 90-degree angle to the piston pin and in

18.1

17.11

line with

General engine overhaul procedures

Use a wire or

brush to clean the

Check the piston-to-bore clearance by measuring the bore (see Sec5) and the piston diameter. Make sure the pistons and bores are correctly matched. Measure the piston at the piston skirt, at a 90-degree angle to and in line with the piston pin (see illustration). Subtract the pis-

than specified, the block

will

If

it's

greater

have to be rebored and new pistons and

rings

installed.

Check the piston-to-rod clearance by twisting the piston and rod in opAny noticeable play indicates excessive wear, which must be corrected. The piston/connecting rod assemblies should be taken to an automotive machine shop to have the pistons and rods rebored and new pins installed. the pistons must be removed from the connecting rods for any reason, they should be taken to an automotive machine shop. While they are there have the connecting rods checked for bend and twist, since automo1

posite directions.

If

tive

less

Rubbing a penny lengthwise on each its condition - if copper rubs off and is embedded in the crankshaft, the journals should be reground

plastic bristle

passages

18.3

journal will reveal

in

Crankshaft - inspection

18

1

ton diameter from the bore diameter to obtain the clearance.

1

oil

the crankshaft

it

1

tion

stiff

machine shops have special equipment

new

pistons and/or connecting rods

for this

purpose. Note: Un-

must be

installed,

do not

disassemble the pistons and connecting rods. 1 Check the connecting rods for cracks and other damage. Temporarily remove the rod caps, lift out the old bearing inserts, wipe the rod and cap bearing surfaces clean and inspect them for nicks, gouges and scratches. After checking the rods, replace the old bearings, slip the caps into place and tighten the nuts finger tight.

18.4

The

oil

holes should be chamfered so sharp edges don't gouge or scratch the new bearings

Refer

to illustrations 18.1, 18.3, 18.4, 18.6

and

18.8

Clean the crankshaft with solvent and dry it with compressed air (if Warning: Wear eye protection when using compressed air. Be sure to clean the oil holes with a stiff brush (see illustration) and flush 1

available).

them with solvent. 2 Check the main and connecting rod bearing journals for uneven wear, scoring, pits and cracks. Rub a penny across each journal several times (see illustration). a 3 journal picks up copper from the penny, it's too rough and must be reIf

ground.

4

Remove

burrs from the crankshaft

all

oil

holes with a stone,

file

or

scraper (see illustration). 5

Check the

rest of the crankshaft for cracks

should be magnafluxed

to reveal

and other damage.

It

hidden cracks - an automotive machine

shop

will handle the procedure. Using a micrometer, measure the diameter of the main and connecting rod journals and compare the results to this Chapter's Specifications (see illustration). By measuring the diameter at a number of points around each journal's circumference, you'll be able to determine whether

6

or not the journal

18.6

is

out-of-round. Take the

measurement at each end of the

of each crankshaft journal at several points to detect taper and out-of-round conditions

Measure the diameter

1

H

Chapter 2 Part B

General engine overhaul procedures

2B-15

BRIGHT (POLISHED) SECTIONS

FATIGUE FAILURE

SCRATCHES

18.8

or

if

IMPROPER SEATING

DIRT IMBEDDED INTO BEARING MATERIAL

OVERLAY WIPED OUT

SCRATCHED BY DIRT

LACK OF OIL

OVERLAY GONE FROM ENTIRE SURFACE

RADIUS RIDE

the seals have worn grooves in the crankshaft journals, the seal contact surfaces are nicked or scratched, the new If

seals

will

leak

near the crank throws, to determine it the journal is tapered. the crankshatt journals are damaged, tapered, out-of-round or worn beyond the limits given in the Specifications, have the crankshaft re-

journal,

7

If

ground by an automotive machine shop. Be sure bearing inserts

the crankshaft

if

is

to

use the correct size

reconditioned. Note: The crankshaft

TAPERED JOURNAL

be machined more than 0.010 inch under the standard dimension. The rear journal on the crankshafts of supercharged engines

journals can't

be re finished at all, because it is already 0.010 inch undersize. Check the oil seal journals at each end of the crankshaft for wear and damage. the seal has worn a groove in the journal, or it's nicked or scratched (see illustration), the new seal may leak when the engine is can't

RADIUS RIDE

Typical bearing failures

19.1

8

If

if

reassembled.

In

some cases, an automotive machine shop may be able to repair isn't feasible, a new

repairthe journal by pressing on a thin sleeve.

If

or different crankshaft should

9

19

Refer to

be installed. Section 19 and examine the main and rod bearing

Lack of lubrication

5

Main and connecting rod bearings - inspection

oil

ure, the bearing material

Refer

breakdown) has a number of interre-

oil), overloading (which from the bearing face) and oil leakage or throw off (from excessive bearing clearances, worn oil pump or high engine speeds) all contribute to lubrication breakdown. Blocked oil passages, which usually are the result of misaligned oil holes in a bearing shell, will also oil starve a bearing and destroy it. When lack of lubrication is the cause of bearing fail-

squeezes the

inserts.

(or lubrication

lated causes. Excessive heat (which thins the

bearing. Temperatures

is

wiped or extruded from the

steel backing of the

may increase to the point where the steel backing

to illustration 19.

turns blue from overheating.

Even though the main and connecting rod bearings should be replaced with new ones during the engine overhaul, the old bearings should be retained for close examination, as they may reveal valuable informa1

about the condition of the engine (see illustration). Bearing failure occurs because of lack of lubrication, the presence of dirt or other foreign particles, overloading the engine and corrosion. Regardless of the cause of bearing failure, must be corrected before the engine is reassembled to prevent it from happening again.

Driving habits can

6

tion

2

it

3

When

examining the bearings, remove them from the engine block,

the main bearing caps, the connecting rods and the rod caps and lay them out on a clean surface

engine. This

will

in

the

enable you

same general position as their location

to

in

the

match any bearing problems with the corre-

sponding crankshaft journal. 4 Dirt and other foreign particles get into the engine

flex,

in

a variety of ways.

it

definite effect

which produces fine cracks

tually the

bearing material

on bearing

life.

Full throttle,

in

the bearing face (fatigue failure). Even-

loosen

will

in

pieces and tear

away from

the

because insufficient engine heat is produced to drive off the condensed water and corrosivegases. These products collect in the engine oil, forming acid and sludge. As the oil is carried to the engine bearings, the acid attacks and steel backing. Short trip driving leads to corrosion of bearings

corrodes the bearing material. 7

Incorrect bearing installation during engine

bearing failure as well. Tight

clearance and

may be left in the engine during assembly, or may pass through filters or the PCV system. may get into the oil, and from there into the bearings. It

have a

low speed operation (lugging the engine) puts very high loads on bearings, which tends to squeeze out the oil film. These loads cause the bearings to

fitting

will result in oil

assembly

will

lead to

bearings leave insufficient bearing

oil

starvation. Dirt or foreign particles trapped

behind a bearing insert result

in

high spots on the bearing which lead to

failure.

It

Metal chips from machining operations and normal engine wear are often present. Abrasives are sometimes left in engine components after reconditioning, especially when parts are not thoroughly

er cleaning

cleaned using the propmethods. Whatever the source, these foreign objects often

end up embedded Large particles

will

in

the soft bearing material and are easily recognized. embed in the bearing and will score or gouge the

not

bearing and journal. The best prevention for this cause of bearing failure is clean all parts thoroughly and keep everything spotlessly clean during engine assembly. Frequent and regular engine oil and filter changes are to

also

recommended.

Engine overhaul - reassembly sequence

20

1

make sure you have all the necgaskets and seals as well as the following items on

Before beginning engine reassembly,

essary

new

parts,

hand:

Common hand tools A

1/2-inch drive torque

wrench

Piston ring installation tool

2B-16

Chapter 2 Part B

When

checking piston ring end gap, must be square in the cylinder bore (this is done by pushing the ring down with the top of a piston as shown)

21.3

the ring

21 .9a

Installing the

the

oil

spacer/expander

in

control ring groove

General engine overhaul procedures

21.4

If the end gap is too small, clamp .5 a file in a vise and file the ring ends (from the outside in only) to enlarge the

With the ring square in the measure the end gap with a

21

cylinder,

feeler

gauge

gap

21 .9b

DO NOT use

installation tool

when

a piston ring

21

.1

2

slightly

Installing the

compression rings

with a ring expander - the mark (arrow) must face up

installing the oil

ring side rails

Piston ring compressor

Short lengths of rubber or plastic hose to fit over connecting rod bolts

21

Piston rings - installation

Plastigage

Refer

Feeler gauges

A

2

to illustrations

21 .3, 21 .4, 21 .5, 21 .9a, 21 .9b and 21 .12

New engine oil

1 Before installing the new piston rings, the ring end gaps must be checked. It's assumed that the piston ring side clearance has been

Engine assembly lube or moly-base grease RTV-type gasket sealant Anaerobic-type gasket sealant Thread locking compound In order to save time and avoid problems, engine reassembly must be

checked and verified correct (see Section 17). 2 Lay out the piston/connecting rod assemblies and the new ring sets so the ring sets will be matched with the same piston and cylinder during the end gap measurement and engine assembly. 3 Insert the top (number one) ring into the first cylinder and square it up

done

fine-tooth

in

file

the following general order:

New camshaft/auxiliary shaft bearings

it in with the top of the piston (see illusshould be near the bottom of the cylinder, at the lower

with the cylinder walls by pushing

(must be

tration).

The

ring

done by automotive machine shop)

limit of ring travel.

Piston rings

4

Crankshaft and main bearings Piston/connecting rod assemblies

ring until

To measure the end gap, slip feeler gauges between the ends of the a gauge equal to the gap width is found (see illustration). The feeler gauge should slide between the ring ends with a slight amount of

Camshaft and

drag.

lifters

Cylinder heads, pushrods

and rocker arms

Timing chain and sprockets Timing chain cover/oil pump

Compare the measurement to the Specifications. the gap is larger make sure you have the correct If

or smaller than specified, double-check to rings before proceeding.

Oil

pan Intake and exhaust manifolds

If the gap is too small, it must be enlarged orthe ring ends may come in contact with each other during engine operation, which can cause serious damage to the engine. The end gap can be increased by filing the ring

Valve covers

ends very

Flywheel/driveplate

soft jaws, slip the ring

5

carefully with a fine

file.

Mount the

file in

a vise equipped with

over the file with the ends contacting the file face and

4 3

Chapter 2 Part B

2B-17

General engine overhaul procedures

FRONT INTERMEDIATE CAP

REAR CAP

REAR CAP THE REAR MAIN BEARING CAP MUST BE INSTALLED SO THAT THE CAP IS FLUSH TO 0.5 FORWARD OF THE REAR FACE OF BLOCK.

NOTE: THE REAR MAIN BEARING CAP MUST BE INSTALLED SO THAT THE CAP IS FLUSH TO 0.5 FORWARD OF THE REAR FACE OF BLOCK.

BOLT

FRONT INTERMEDIATE CAP

REAR INTERMEDIATE CAP FRONT CAP NOTE: ASSEMBLE

w

WITH ARROWS POINTING FORWARD. CAPS ARE 1 THRU FRONT TO REAR

IDENTIFIED

3

«~

K&

THRUST BEARING-LOWER

R I

VIEW A

MAIN BEARING-LOWER MAIN BEARING-UPPER REO'D

3

THRUST BEARINGUPPER

REAR INTERMEDIATE CAP

CRANKSHAFT ASSY CYLINDER BLOCK ASSY

FRONT CAP 6329 ASSEMBLE CAPS WITH ARROWS POINTING FORWARD. CAPS ARE

FRONT OF ENGINE

IDENTIFCD 1 THRU 3 FRONT TO REAR.

VIEW A SUPERCHARGED ENGINE BEARING CAPS SHOWN

Crankshaft and main bearings - exploded view

22.6

material from the ends. When performing from the outside in (see illustration). 6 Excess end gap isn't critical unless it's greater than 0.040-inch. Again, double-check to make sure you have the correct rings for your en-

two

gine.

1

slowly

move the

ring to

remove

this operation, file only

Repeat the procedure for each ring that will be installed in the first cylinder and for each ring in the remaining cylinders. Remember to keep rings, pistons and cylinders matched up. 8 Once the ring end gaps have been checked/corrected, the rings can be installed on the pistons. The oil control ring (lowest one on the piston) is installed first. It's com9 posed of three separate components. Slip the spacer/expander into the groove (see illustration). If an anti-rotation tang is used, make sure it's

necessary Install

1

mark

is

to slide

the

facing

it

over the piston.

number one (top) up. Be careful not

same manner. Make sure the confuse the number one and number

ring in the to

rings.

Repeat the procedure

for the

remaining pistons and rings.

7

inserted into the drilled hole rail.

in

the ring groove. Next,

Don't use a piston ring installation tool on the

may be damaged.

oil

install

the lower side

ring side rails,

as they

one end of the side rail into the groove between the spacer/expander and the ring land, hold it firmly in place and slide a finger around the piston while pushing the rail into the groove (see Instead, place

illustration). Next, install the

upper side

rail in

the

same manner.

components have been installed, check to make sure that both the upper and lower side rails can be turned smoothly 10

in

After the three

oil

ring

the ring groove.

The number two (middle) ring is installed next. It's stamped with a mark which must face up; toward the top of the piston. Note: Always follow the instructions printed on the ring package or box - different manufactur11

not mix up the top and middle as they have different cross sections. 12 Use a piston ring installation tool and make sure the identification mark is facing the top of the piston, then slip the ring into the middle groove on the piston (see illustration). Don't expand the ring any more than is ers

may require different approaches. Do

rings,

22

Crankshaft - installation and main bearing clearance check

Refer 1

to illustrations 22.6, 22.

Crankshaft installation

assumed

is

10

oil

and 22. 14

the first major step

at this point that the

in engine reassembly. It's engine block and crankshaft have been

cleaned, inspected and repaired or reconditioned. 2 Position the engine with the bottom facing up. 3 in

Remove the main bearing cap bolts and

lift

out the caps. Lay them out

the proper order to ensure correct installation.

4 If they're still in place, remove the old bearing inserts from the block and the main bearing caps. Wipe the main bearing surfaces of the block and caps with a clean, lint free cloth. They must be kept spotlessly clean. Clean the back sides of the new main bearing inserts and lay one 5 bearing half in each main bearing saddle in the block. Lay the other bearing half from each bearing set in the corresponding main bearing cap. Make sure the tab on the bearing insert fits into the recess in the block or cap. Also, the oil holes in the block must line up with the oil holes in the bearing insert. Caution: Do not hammer the bearings into place and don't nick or gouge the bearing faces. No lubrication should be used at this time. The flanged thrust bearing must be installed in the third cap and 6 saddle (see illustration).

8 9 4 7 1 2

2B-18

22.10

Chapter 2 Part B

General engine overhaul procedures

Lay the Plastigage strips (arrow) on the main bearing

Clean the faces

7

of the

bearings

bearing journals with a clean, the crankshaft, as any

dirt

lint

in

Check or clean

new

bearings.

Once you're certain the crankshaft is clean,

the

oil

holes

in

out and approach the carefully lay

it

in

position

oil 1

Before the crankshaft can be permanently installed, the main bearing clearance must be checked. Trim several pieces of the appropriate size of Plastigage (they must

be slightly shorter than the width of the main bearings) and place one piece on each crankshaft main bearing journal, parallel with the journal axis (see illustration).

Clean the faces of the bearings

1

respective positions (don't mix

in

them

the caps and

install

the caps

in their

up) with the arrows pointing toward

torque

final

three steps). Tighten the third cap

in

Tap the ends

forward and backup the main bearing and crankshaft thrust surfaces. Retighten all main bearing cap bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications, starting with the center main and working out toward the ends. Note; Apply a 1/8 inch bead of silicone sealant to the rear main bearing cap-to-cylinder block mating line. 20 On manual transmission equipped models, install a new pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft (see Chapter 8). 21 Rotate the crankshaft a number of times by hand to check for any obbolts to

ward

the main bearings.

9

(always take the measurement at the widest point of the - standard and metric ones are included

Plastigage); be sure to use the correct scale

here can go only one way - straight through the

8 in

the width of the crushed Plastigage to the scale to determine the main bearing oil clearance

on the envelope

the block and the crankshaft main

free cloth.

Compare

22.1 4

journals, parallel to the crankshaft centerline

1

0-to-1 2 ft-lbs.

with a lead or brass

of the crankshaft

hammer to

line

vious binding.

the front of the engine. Don't disturb the Plastigage.

22

main and working out toward the ends, tighten the main bearing cap bolts, in three steps, to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. Don't rotate the crankshaft at any time during this op-

a dial indicator as described

The final step is to check the crankshaft endplay with a feeler gauge or in Section 1 3. The endplay should be correct the crankshaft thrust faces aren't worn or damaged and new bearings have been installed.

eration.

23

Starting with the center

1

13

Remove

them

the bolts and carefully

lift

off

the main bearing caps.

Install

the rear main

if

oil

seal (see Section 23).

Keep

order. Don't disturb the Plastigage or rotate the crankshaft. If any main bearing caps are difficult to remove, tap them gently from sideto-side with a soft-face hammer to loosen them. 1 Compare the width of the crushed Plastigage on each journal to the scale printed on the Plastigage container to obtain the main bearing oil in

of the

Rear main

23

oil

seal

-

installation

Make sure the engine block is clean to ensure a proper fit. Apply a small amount of oil to the outer edge of the seal. 3 Coat the seal lip and crankshaft surface with engine oil. 4 Start the seal in the recess and install it with tool T82L-6701 -A (see illustration 1 6.1 9 in Part A). Alternatively, use a hammer and socket the 1

make

clearance (see illustration). Check the Specifications to

sure

it's

correct.

15

If

the clearance

is

not as specified, the bearing inserts

wrong size (which means different ones will be

may be

the

required). Before deciding

needed, make sure that no dirt or oil was between when the clearance was measured. If the Plastigage is noticeably wider at one end than the other, the journal may be tapered (see Section 18). 16 Carefully scrape all traces of the Plastigage material off the main that different inserts are

the bearing inserts and the caps or block

bearing journals and/or the bearing faces. Don't nick or scratch the bear-

2

same diameter as 5

Push the seal

1

Carefully

lift

completely seated.

the crankshaft out of the engine. Clean the bearing faces

engine assembly lube to each

Make

of the

bearing surfaces. Be sure to coat the

sure the crankshaft journals are clean, then lay the crankshaft

back in place

in

the block. Clean the faces of the bearings

apply lubricant to them.

Install

the caps

in their

Tighten

all

except the

to the torque listed in this

third

cap

bolts (the

in

the caps, then

respective positions with

the arrows pointing toward the front of the engine. 1

it's

the block, then apply a thin, uniform layer of clean moly-base grease or

thrust faces as well as the journal face of the third (thrust) bearing. 1

into position until

Piston/connecting rod assembly - installation and rod bearing oil clearance check

24

ing faces.

in

the seal to drive the seal into the bore.

one

Install

the bolts.

with the thrust bearing)

Chapter's Specifications (work from the center

Refer 1

to illustrations 24.5, 24.8, 24.9,

24.11

and 24. 13

Before installing the piston/connecting rod assemblies, the cylinder

must be perfectly clean, the top edge of each cylinder must be chamand the crankshaft must be in place. 2 Remove the connecting rod cap from the end of the number one connecting rod. Remove the old bearing inserts and wipe the bearing surfaces of the connecting rod and cap with a clean, lint free cloth. They must be walls

fered,

kept spotlessly clean.

—

1

Chapter 2 Part B

^^

ENGINE

ENGINE FRONT

LEFT

ENGINE RIGHT

-

2B-19

General engine overhaul procedures

^

chh

Position the piston ring end gaps as shown here before installing the piston/connecting rod assemblies

24.5

in

Oil ring

1

the engine

spacer gap (tang

in

hole or slot with arc)

2

Oil ring rail

3

2nd compression

4

Top compression ring gap

ring

gap

gaps 24.8

The notch or the arrow

of the new upper bearing half, then lay in place Make sure the tab on the bearing fits into the recess hammer the bearing insert into place and be very careful

Clean the back side

3 in

the connecting rod.

in

the rod. Don't

not to nick or

it

gouge the bearing

face. Don't lubricate the bearing at this

time.

Clean the back side

4

rod cap. Again,

of the

remaining bearing insert and

make sure the tab on the bearing fits into the

cap, and don't apply any lubricant.

It's

critically

tration), then slip

a section

gaps at

intervals

of plastic or

downward pressure on the

around the piston (see

illus-

rubber hose over each connecting

6

Lubricate the piston and rings with clean engine oil and attach a piston

ring

compressor to the

Leave the skirt protruding about 1 /4-inch to The rings must be compressed until

into the cylinder.

they're flush with the piston.

7

Rotate the crankshaft

at

until

the

number one connecting

rod journal

is

BDC (bottom dead center) and apply a coat of engine oil to the cylinder

walls.

8

With the notch or arrow on top of the piston (see illustration) facing

the front of the engine, gently insert the piston/connecting rod assembly into the

24.9

compressor

ring

the

free

number one

cylinder bore

and

rest the

bottom edge

of the ring

Drive the piston gently into the cylinder bore with the end of a wooden or plastic hammer handle

Tap the top edge its

of the ring

compressor

entire circumference.

Carefully tap on the top of the piston with the end of a wooden hammer handle (see illustration) while guiding the end of the connecting rod into place on the crankshaft journal. The piston rings may try to pop out of the

the

oil

block.

contacting the block around

in

important that the mating

the top of each piston must face pistons are installed

9

tance

so keep some compressor. Work slowly, and if any resis-

just before entering the cylinder bore, ring

as the piston enters the cylinder, stop immediately. Find out fix it before proceeding. Do not, for any reason, force the piston into the cylinder, as you might break a ring and/or the pisis felt

what's hanging up and ton! 1

Once the piston/connecting rod assembly is installed, the connecting

rod bearing

piston.

it's

in

rod cap bolt.

guide the piston

sure

it

they're assembled.

Position the piston ring

5

make

recess

install

surfaces of the bearing and connecting rod are perfectly clean and

when

compressor on the engine to

in

FRONT of the engine as the

the

oil

nently bolted

clearance must be checked before the rod cap

in

is

perma-

place.

Cut a piece of the appropriate size Plastigage slightly shorter than the it in place on the number one connecting rod journal, parallel with the journal axis (see illustration). 12 Clean the connecting rod cap bearing face, remove the protective hoses from the connecting rod bolts and install the rod cap. Make sure the mating mark on the cap is on the same side as the mark on the connecting rod. Install the nuts and tighten them to the torque listed in this Chapter s Specifications, working up to it in three steps. Note: Use a thin-wall socket to avoid erroneous torque readings that can result if the socket is we'dged 1

width of the connecting rod bearing and lay

24.11

Lay the Plastigage strips on each rod bearing journal, parallel to the crankshaft centerline

4 3 5

6 7

1

2B-20

Chapter 2 Part B

nl

•>•'

N/H

Knn ni ?oo hoj -

,.

-•

i'

Oma)

General engine overhaul procedures Repeat the entire procedure for the remaining piston/connecting rod 1 assemblies. Keep the back sides of the bearing inserts and the inside of the connecting rod and cap perfectly clean when assembling them. Make sure you have the correct piston for the cylinder and that the notch on the

t-adi-

piston faces to the front of the engine when the piston ber,

HONier

pressor. Also,

3

of

oil

is

installed.

Remem-

combe sure to

to lubricate the piston before installing the ring

when

installing the rod

caps

for the final time,

lubricate the bearing faces adequately. 1

C

use plenty

Q Q

After

all

the piston/connecting rod assemblies have been properly

stalled, rotate the

crankshaft a

number

of

in-

times by hand to check for any

obvious binding.

As a final step, the connecting rod endplay must be checked. Refer to Compare the measured endplay to the Specifications to make sure it's correct. If was correct before disassemshould still be bly and the original crankshaft and rods were reinstalled, right. If new rods or a new crankshaft were installed, the endplay may be too small. If so, the rods will have to be removed and taken to an automo18

Section 12 for this procedure.

it

it

tive

Measuring the width of the crushed Plastigage to determine the rod bearing oil clearance (be sure to use the correct scale - standard and metric ones are included) 24.1 3

between the rod cap and nut. Do not rotate the crankshaft at any time during this operation!

Remove the rod cap, being very careful not to disturb the Plastigage. Compare the width of the crushed Plastigage to the scale printed On the Plastigage container to obtain the oil clearance (see illustration). Compare to the Specifications to make sure the clearance is correct. the clearance is not as specified, the bearing inserts may be the wrong size (which means different ones will be required). Before deciding that different inserts are needed, make sure that no dirt or oil was between the bearing inserts and the connecting rod or cap when the clearance was 1

it

If

measured. Also, recheck the journal diameter. If the Plastigage was wider one end than the other, the journal may be tapered (refer to Section 1 8). Carefully scrape all traces of the Plastigage material off the rod jour1 nal and/or bearing face. Be very careful not to scratch the bearing - use your fingernail or a credit card. Make sure the bearing faces are perfectly clean, then apply a uniform layer of clean moly-base grease or engine assembly lube to both of them. You'll have to push the piston into the cylinder to expose the face of the bearing insert in the connecting rod - be sure to slip the protective hoses over the rod bolts first. 1 Slide the connecting rod back into place on the journal, remove the protective hoses from the rod cap bolts, install the rod cap and tighten the nuts to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. Again, work up to the torque in three steps. at

25

machine shop

Initial

for resizing.

start-up

and break-in

after

overhaul

1 Once the engine has been installed in the vehicle, double-check the engine oil and coolant levels. 2 With the spark plugs out of the engine and the ignition system disabled (see Section 2), crank the engine until oil pressure registers on the

gauge. Install the spark plugs, hook up the plug wires and restore the ignition 3 system functions (see Section 2). 4 Start the engine. It may take a few moments for the gasoline to reach the injectors, but the engine should start without a great deal of effort. After the engine starts, it should be allowed to warm up to normal op5 erating temperature. While the engine is warming up, make a thorough check for oil and coolant leaks. Shut the engine off and recheck the engine oil and coolant levels. 6 7 Drive the vehicle to an area With minimum traffic, accelerate at full throttle from 30 to 50 mph then allow the vehicle to slow to 30 mph with the throttle closed. Repeat the procedure 1 or 1 2 times. This will load the pis,

them to seat properly against the cylinder walls. and coolant leaks. Drive the vehicle gently for the first 500 miles (no sustained high 8 speeds) and keep a constant check on the oil level. It is not unusual for an engine to use oil during the break-in period. At approximately 500 to 600 miles, change the oil and filter. 9 10 For the next few hundred miles, drive the vehicle normally. Do not pamper it or abuse it. 1 After 2000 miles, change the oil and filter again and consider the en-

ton rings and cause

Check again

gine

fully

for

broken

oil

in.

8

Chapter 3

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems Contents

Air conditioner

and

and heater

system conditioning system conditioning system conditioning system

Air conditioning Air Air

Air

control

assembly - removal

Cooling system servicing (draining, flushing

Antifreeze

Coolant

accumulator - removal and installation - check and maintenance compressor- removal and installation condenser - removal and installation ...

- general information

level

and refilling) Engine cooling fan and clutch - check, removal and General information Heater and air conditioner blower motor - removal

16

installation

check

.

.

13 12 14

and

15 2

See Chapter

installation

Heater core - removal and installation Radiator - removal and installation Thermostat - check and replacement

1

Coolant reservoir - removal and installation 7 Coolant temperature sending unit - check and replacement 6 Cooling system check See Chapter 1

Water pump - check Water pump - replacement

Specifications

General Coolant capacity Radiator cap pressure rating Thermostat rating (starts to open)

See Chapter 16

1

psi

193

to

200-degrees F

Torque specifications

Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)

Thermostat housing bolts Water pump-to-block bolts Fan-to-fan clutch bolts

72 1 5 1 2

Fan clutch-to-water pump

1

to

96 22

to

1

to

5 to 22

in-lbs

See Chapter installation

.

.

1

5 1

10 11

4 3 8 9

4 1 2 3

3-2

Cooling, heating and

Chapter 3

The cooling system should be drained, flushed and refilled at least ev1 ). The use of antifreeze solutions for periods

ery other year (see Chapter

General information

1

conditioning systems

air

of longer than

Engine cooling system All vehicles covered by this manual employ a pressurized engine coolsystem with thermostatically controlled coolant circulation. An impeller type water pump mounted on the front of the block pumps coolant through the engine. The coolant flows around each cylinder and toward the rear of the engine. Cast-in coolant passages direct coolant around the intake and exhaust ports, near the spark plug areas and in close proximity to the exhaust valve guide inserts.

ing

A wax pellet type thermostat is located near the front of the intake manDuring warm up, the closed thermostat prevents coolant from circu-

ifold.

lating

through the radiator.

When

the engine reaches normal operating

temperature, the thermostat opens and allows hot coolant to travel through the radiator, where it is cooled before returning to the engine.

two years

is likely

to

cause damage and encourage the forIf your tap water is "hard", use dis-

mation of rust and scale in the system. tilled water with the antifreeze.

Before adding antifreeze to the system, check all hose connections, because antifreeze tends to search out and leak through very minute openings. Engines do not normally consume coolant. Therefore, if the level goes down find the cause and correct it. The exact mixture of antifreeze-to-water which you should use depends on the relative weather conditions. The mixture should contain at least 50-percent antifreeze, but should never contain more than 70-percent antifreeze. Consult the mixture ratio chart on the antifreeze container before adding coolant. Hydrometers are available at most auto parts stores to test the ratio of antifreeze to water. Use antifreeze which meets Specification ESE-M97B44-A (part no. E2FZ-19549-AA) or equivalent.

Supercharged models utilize a copper/brass downflow radiator. On non-supercharged models, an aluminum cross-flow radiator with plastic end tanks is used. On models with automatic transmissions, a heat exchanger is mounted in the radiator to transfer heat from the automatic

3

transmission

Warning: Do not allow antifreeze to painted sudaces of the vehicle. Rinse

The

fluid to

the coolant.

cooling system

is

sealed by a pressure type radiator cap. This and the higher boiling point of the

raises the boiling point of the coolant

coolant increases the cooling efficiency of the radiator.

sure exceeds the cap pressure

relief

If

the system pres-

value, the excess pressure

in

the

system forces the spring-loaded valve inside the cap off its seat and allows the coolant to escape through the overflow tube into a coolant reservoir. When the system cools the excess coolant is automatically drawn from the reservoir back into the radiator. The coolant reservoir does double duty as both the point at which fresh coolant is added to the cooling system to maintain the proper fluid level and as a holding tank for overheated coolant. This type of cooling system is known as a closed design because coolant that escapes past the pressure cap is saved and reused.

Thermostat - check and replacement

contact with your skin or immediately with plenty of water. Antifreeze is highly toxic if ingested. Never leave antifreeze lying around in an open container or in puddles on the floor; children and pets are attracted by it's sweet smell and may drink it. Check with local authorities about disposing of used antifreeze. Many communities have collection centers which will see that antifreeze is disposed of safely. Do not

Caution Do not drive the vehicle without a thermostat. The computer may stay in open loop and emissions and fuel economy will suffer. :

Check 1

Before assuming the thermostat

perature gauge (or

The heater consists

of

a blower fan and heater core located under the

dashboard, the inlet and outlet hoses connecting the heater core to the engine cooling system and the heater/air conditioning control head on the dashboard. Hot engine coolant is circulated through the heater core at all

When

times.

the heater

mode

is

activated, a flap door

opens

to

expose

the heater box to the passenger compartment.

A fan switch on the control

head activates the blower motor, which forces

air

ing the

through the core, heat-

Air conditioning system The air conditioning system consists basically of a condenser mounted in front of the radiator, an evaporator mounted under the dash, a compressor mounted on the engine, a filter-drier (accumulator) which contains a high pressure relief valve and the plumbing connecting all of the above. A blower fan forces the warmer air of the passenger compartment through the evaporator core (sort of a radiator-in-reverse), transferring the heat from the air to the refrigerant. The liquid refrigerant boils off into low

pressure vapor, taking the heat with

2

2

If

stuck

it

when

leaves the evaporator.

it

Antifreeze - general information

level, drivebelt

light)

to

is

blame

for

a cooling system and tem1

tension (see Chapter

)

operation.

the engine takes a long time to in

warm

up, the thermostat

the open position. Replace the thermostat with a

is

new

probably one.

If the engine runs hot, use your hand to check the temperature of the upper radiator hose. If the hose is not hot, but the engine is, the thermostat

3

is probably stuck in the closed position, preventing the coolant inside the engine from escaping to the radiator. Replace the thermostat.

4

If

the upper radiator hose

and the thermostat front of this manual

air.

in

attempt to remove the radiator cap, coolant or thermostat until the engine has cooled completely.

problem, check coolant

Heater

come

off spills

is

is

hot,

it

means

that the coolant

is

flowing

open. Consult the Troubleshooting Section

at the

for further diagnosis.

Replacement Refer 5

6 7

to illustrations

3.9,3.11,3.13 and

3.

14

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Drain the coolant from the radiator (see Chapter

1 ).

On some models may be necessary to remove the engine air ducts it

access the upper radiator hose. Remove the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing. 9 Remove the two bolts from the thermostat housing and detach the housing (see illustration). Be prepared for some coolant to spill as the gasket seal is broken. 1 Note the position of the thermostat prior to removal. Remove the thermostat by turning counterclockwise to release it from the housing. 1 Remove all traces of gasket material from the sealing surfaces (see to

8

it

Warning: Do not allow antifreeze

come

contact with your skin or immediately with plenty of water. Antifreeze is highly toxic if ingested. Never leave antifreeze lying around in an open container or in puddles on the floor; children and pets are attracted by it s sweet smell and may drink it. Check with local authorities about disposing of used antifreeze. Many communities have collection centers which will see that antifreeze is disposed of safely. to

painted surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse

in

off spills

The cooling system should be filled with a water/ethylene glycol based will prevent freezing down to at least -20-de-

antifreeze solution, which

grees

F,

or lower

if

local climate requires

it.

It

also provides protection

against corrosion and increases the coolant boiling point.

illustration). 1

Apply gasket sealant

to both sides of

a new gasket and position

it

on

the engine. 1 Place the thermostat into position and twist it clockwise until secure (see illustration). Note: Some thermostats have round bleeder valves. When installing these, locate the bleeder at the 12 o'clock position as viewed from the front of the engine. 1 Two types of gaskets are available; an adhesive-backed gasket and a plain one. Coat both sides of the plain gasket with RTV sealant just before

installation.

adhesive

Peel the paper

to hold the

gasket

off in

the adhesive-backed gasket and use the

place (see illustration).

7

Chapter 3

3.9

Remove

the mounting

Remove

3.11

15

Install

torque

16

tubes, 1

4

if

traces of old

new gasket over the thermostat (adhesive-backed gasket shown)

Position the

4.2

Insert the thermostat with the spring facing out, engage the locking recess and twist the thermostat clockwise

3.13

Squeeze the spring-type clamps together with a slip them back over the hoses

plier

and

the thermostat housing and bolts. Tighten the bolts to the

listed in this

Install

all

gasket material

bolts (arrows)

3.14

3-3

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

Chapter's Specifications.

the upper radiator hose, then reinstall the

air inlet

and

outlet

necessary.

Refill

the cooling system (see Chapter

1 ).

Radiator - removal and installation

Refer

to illustrations 4.2, 4.4, 4.5

and 4.6

Warning: Do not allow antifreeze

to come in contact with your skin or painted surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately with plenty of

water. Antifreeze is highly toxic if ingested. Never leave antifreeze lying around in an open container or in puddles on the floor; children and pets are attracted by it s sweet smell and may drink Check with local authorities about disposing of used antifreeze. Many communities have collection centers which will see that antifreeze is disposed of safely. it.

Removal 1

Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1 ). Disconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses and overflow hose

2 from the radiator (see illustration).

On supercharged

models, remove the intercooler (see Chapter 4) and electric cooling fan (see Section 5). 3

4.4 Remove the upper fan shroud bolts (arrows) and lift the shroud out of the lower retaining clips, then lay the shroud back

over the fan 4

On non-supercharged models, remove the upper fan

ing bolts at the radiator support (see illustration). ciently to

the fan.

disengage the lower retaining clips and

Lift

lay the

shroud mount-

the shroud

suffi-

shroud back over

3-4

Hold the inner fitting with a back-up wrench and unscrew the coupling nut with a flare-nut wrench

4.5

5

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

Chapter 3

On models

with automatic transmissions, disconnect the transmis-

sion cooler lines from the radiator (see illustration)

and cap the open

ends.

6

Remove the mounting

bolts (see illustration)

and

lift

the radiator out

of the vehicle.

Installation 7

Installation is the

8

Refill

reverse of removal.

the cooling system and, on automatic transmission models,

check the transmission

5

fluid level

(see Chapter

1 ).

Engine cooling fan and clutch - check, removal

and

installation

is

injury or

damage,

DO NOT operate the en-

Do not attempt to repair fan blades - replace any

damaged.

Note: The supercharged engine has an electric fan. Other models have a conventional engine-mounted fan and viscous clutch.

Check Supercharged engines Refer

to illustration

mounting bolts

(driver's side

shown)

come on at a coolant temperature of about 222-degrees F or whenever the air conditioning is on and vehicle speed is below 43 mph. The high speed should come on at a coolant temperature of about 230-degrees F. 2 To test the fan, unplug the electrical connector at the motor and use fused jumper wires to connect the fan directly to the battery. If the fan still does not work, replace the motor. If the motor tested OK, the fault lies in the coolant temperature switch, 3 the integrated relay control assembly, the EEC-I V system (see Chapter 6) or the wiring which connects these components. Carefully check all wiring and connections (see illustration). If no obvious problems are found, further diagnosis should be done by a Ford or Lincoln-Mercury dealer service department or repair shop. low speed should

Refer

fan which

radiator

Non-supercharged engines

Warning: To avoid possible gine with a damaged fan.

Remove the

4.6

to illustration 5.4

4 Disconnect the negative battery cable and rock the fan back and forth by hand to check for excessive bearing play (see illustration). Visually inspect for fluid leakage from the clutch assembly. Either problem calls for replacement of the clutch assembly. With the engine completely warmed up, shut off the engine and dis5 connect the negative battery cable. Turn the fan by hand. Some drag should be evident. If the fan turns very easily or is locked solid, replace the fan clutch.

5.3

The supercharged engine has an electric cooling fan system with two 1 speeds that is regulated by the integrated relay control assembly and EEC-I V module. The ignition switch must be on for the fan to work. The fan

HIGH

SPEED FAN

V

HIGH SPEED CONTACT

BATT 1A 4A

-O^O-

2A

HIGH

LOW SPEED 7A

LOW

/

-o-~o-

9A

LOW SPEED CONTACT

SPEED COOLING FAN

MOTOR

SPEED 5.4 5.3

Electric cooling fan circuit

Rock the blades back and

forth to

bearing play

check

for excessive

2

Chapter 3

3-5

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

Removal and installation

LOCK TAB

Supercharged engines Refer

to illustrations 5.

7 and 5.8

CONNECTOR Disconnect the negative battery cable. 7 Insert a small screwdriver into the plug to lift the lock tab and unplug the fan electrical connector (see illustration). Unclip the wiring harness. Detach the overflow hose and unbolt the fan bracket and shroud as8 sembly (see illustration). Lift it out of the engine compartment. Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to reconnect the wiring 9 6

and check the operation

of the fan.

Non-supercharged engines ELECTRIC FAN MOTOR

Refer

•FRONT OF VEHICLE

5.7

Unplug the fan

1

electrical

connector

to illustrations 5.

1 1,

5. 12, 5.

13 and

5.

15

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.

11 Remove the bolts attaching the fan/clutch assembly to the pump hub (see illustration) 1 Remove the fan shroud attaching bolts (see illustration) and

shroud out

of the lower locating clips.

OVERFLOW HOSE RETAINING CLIP

FAN MOTOR MALE/ FEMALE WIRING

CONNECTORS AND RETAINING CLIP

MOTOR AND FAN ASSY

5.8

5.11

Remove

the fan clutch-to-water

Electric cooling fan

pump

bolts (arrows)

mounting details - exploded view

5.12

Remove

the fan shroud bolts (arrows)

water

lift

the

4 5 6

3-6

5.1 3

Chapter 3

Lift

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

the fan shroud out of the engine compartment

5.15

13

Lift

ment 1

Remove the fan-to-clutch

bolts (arrows)

the fan/clutch assembly and shroud out of the engine compart-

at the

same

time (see illustration).

Carefully inspect the fan blades for

damage and

defects. Replace

if

necessary. 1

At this point, the fan

illustration).

If

may be

the fan clutch

is

unbolted from the clutch,

stored, place

it

if

desired (see

with the radiator side facing

down. 1

Installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten the bolts to the torque

listed in this

Chapter's Specifications.

Coolant temperature sending unit - check and replacement

6

Warning: The engine must be completely cool before removing the sending unit.

Note 6.9a

Coolant temperature sending unit location (arrow) non-supercharged engine

TEMPERATURE

SENDER

6.9b

Coolant temperature sending unit - supercharged engine

location

:

The following procedure applies only to the standard analog instru-

ments. The diagnosis procedure for the optional digital panel requires special

equipment the home mechanic

is

not likely to have.

1

Chapter 3

Unplug the

7.2

3-7

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

connector and remove the screws (arrows)

electrical

8.3

If

coolant runs out of this hole (arrow), replace the

(pump removed

pump

for clarity)

Check 1

the coolant temperature

If

first

2

the temperature indicator

If

gauge

or light

3

If

is

If

the

inoperative,

shows excessive temperature

ning a while, see the Troubleshooting Section

gine

is

check the

(see Chapter 12).

fuses

the temperature

gauge

in

after run-

the front of the manual.

or light indicates "Hot" shortly after the en-

started cold, disconnect the wire at the coolant temperature sensor.

gauge reading drops or the

light

goes out, replace the sending unit. If gauge or light may be shorted to

the reading remains high, the wire to the

ground or the gauge is faulty. 4 If the coolant temperature gauge fails to indicate after the engine has been warmed up (approx. 1 minutes) and the fuses checked out OK, shut off the engine. Disconnect the wire at the sending unit and using a jumper wire, connect it to a clean ground on the engine. Turn on the ignition without starting the engine.

If

the

gauge now indicates "Hot", replace the send-

ing unit.

5

If

gauge still does not work, the circuit may be open See Chapter 12 for additional information.

the

may be

or the

gauge

faulty.

Replacement Refer

Rock the

8.4

to illustrations

6.9a

With the engine completely cool, remove the cap from the radiator to

3

Remove

release any pressure, then replace the cap. This reduces coolant loss dur-

4

Installation

6

shaft

up and down

to

check

for play

and 6.9b

sender replacement. 7 Disconnect the electrical connector from the sending unit. 8 Prepare the new sending unit for installation by wrapping Teflon tape around the threads. Unscrew the sending unit from the engine (see illustrations) and 9

the screws attaching the reservoir to the inner fender. is

the reverse of removal.

ing

quickly install the 1 1

new one

to

prevent coolant loss.

Refill

the cooling system (see Chapter

and proper

light

or

1 )

Water

Refer

Tighten the sending unit securely and connect the wiring harness.

for leaks

8

and run the engine. Check

gauge operation.

pump - check

to illustrations

8.3

engine.

There are two ways to check the operation of the water pump while it's If either check indicates that the pump is defective, replace it with a new or rebuilt unit. The water pump body has a "weep" hole in the underside (see illus3 tration). If the pump seal fails, coolant will leak out of the hole. You'll need to get underneath the water pump to see the hole, so raise the vehicle and place it on jackstands. Use a flashlight to help determine if coolant is leaking from the pump. 4 If the water pump shaft bearing fails it will usually make a squealing sound (don't confuse drivebelt slippage, which makes a similar sound, with water pump bearing failure). Even before the bearing actually fails, shaft wear can be detected by grasping the pulley or flange firmly and moving up-and-down (see illustration). If excessive play is noted, the shaft and/or bearing are worn and the pump should be replaced. Note: In 2

in

7

Coolant reservoir - removal and installation

Refer

to illustration 7.2

Warning: Do not allow antifreeze to come in contact with your skin or painted surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately with plenty of water. Antifreeze is highly toxic if ingested. Never leave antifreeze lying around in an open container or in puddles on the floor; children and pets are attracted by it 's sweet smell and may drink Check with local authorities about disposing of used antifreeze. Many communities have collection centers which will see that antifreeze is disposed of safely. it.

1

2

Disconnect the coolant overflow hose at the radiator neck. Unplug the electrical connector from the top of the reservoir (see

lustration).

and 8.4

A failure in the water pump can cause overheating and serious engine damage because a defective pump will not circulate coolant through the 1

place on the engine.

it

il-

and out play is normal.

3-8

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

Chapter 3

Detach the coolant hoses (arrows) - non-supercharged engine shown

9.7

9.6

The power steering pump bracket over the water pump mounting

9.8

Use a

soft-face mallet to break the

gasket seal

fits

studs (arrows)

WATER PUMP

GASKET

FRONT COVER AND EFI

9.9

9

Water

Water

ENGINE

OIL

SHOWN

pump mounting

details

PUMP

- exploded view (non-supercharged engine shown, supercharged engine

pump - replacement

5

Remove

pulley at the

Refer

to illustrations 9.6, 9. 7, 9.8, 9.9, 9.

10

6

and 9. 12

similar)

the drivebelts, idler pulley bracket (see Chapter

end

of the

water

pump

1

)

and the

shaft.

Disconnect the coolant hoses from the water

pump

(see illustra-

tion).

Warning: Do not allow antifreeze

to come in contact with your skin or painted surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately with plenty of

Never leave antifreeze lying around in an open container or in puddles on the floor; children and pets are attracted by it s sweet smell and may drink Check with local authorities about disposing of used antifreeze. Many communities have collection centers which will see that antifreeze is disposed of safely. water. Antifreeze

is

highly toxic

if

ingested.

it.

Disconnect the negative battery cable. Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1 ). Remove the air cleaner assembly and air intake duct, 3 (see Chapter 4). Remove the cooling fan and shroud (see Section 5). 4 1

2

if

necessary

7

Remove all accessory drive brackets from the water pump (see illusyou have the special tools for power steering pump pulley re-

tration).

If

moval and installation, detach the pulley and remove the bracket (see Chapter 1 0). If you don't have the special tools, remove the alternator (see Chapter 5) and power steering pump and bracket assembly (see Chapter 1 0). Note: If you remove the power steering pump and air conditioning compressor, do not disconnect the hoses, but rather tie the units aside with the hoses attached. Unbolt and remove the water pump (see illustration). 8 Note the length and types of bolts as they are removed to ensure cor9 rect installation (see illustration). Thoroughly clean all gasket surfaces (see illustration). 1

3 1

Chapter 3

9.10

Remove all

3-9

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

traces of old gasket material

9.1 2

Apply sealant to the threads of the bolt

in this

location (arrow)

1

Apply a

thin film of

RTV

new gasket and

sealant to the

position

it

on

the engine.

12

Prior to installation, coat only

one

bolt

(see illustration) with Teflon oil the remaining bolts.

tape (Ford D8AZ-19554-A or equivalent). Lightly 1

Install

the

pump and tighten the bolts to the torque

listed in this

Chap-

ter's Specifications.

14 15

Reinstall Refill

all

parts

removed

in

the reverse order of removal.

the cooling system and check belt tension (see Chaptei 1),run

the engine and check for coolant leaks.

10

Heater and air conditioning blower motor- removal and installation

Refer

to illustrations 10.2, 10.3, 10.4

and

10.5

Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2 Lower the glove compartment door by squeezing the sides together and disengaging the tabs (see illustration). 1

Working through the glove compartment opening, unplug the blower motor by depressing the locking tabs and pulling the connector off. Unscrew the blower motor from the housing (see illustration). 4 Pull the motor and mounting plate out as a unit (see illustration). 3

10.3

Unplug the connector and remove the mounting screws (arrows)

1

0.2

Squeeze the sides together and

tilt

the glove compartment

door down

10.4

Slip the

blower assembly out of the housing

4 2 3 5

3-10

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

Chapter 3

until after

the system has

ment or service

been depressurized by a dealer service depart-

station.

Removal 1

If

the vehicle you are working on has air conditioning, take

er or service station to

have the

refrigerant

it

to

a deal-

gas discharged.

Disconnect the negative battery cable. Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1 ). Remove the instrument panel (see Chapter

2 3

1 2). 4 5 On air conditioned models, disconnect the refrigerant lines which go through the firewall. Use a backup wrench to prevent twisting the tubing.

Cap 6

all open ends. Disconnect the heater hoses which go through the

firewall.

Cap

all

open ends. 7

Disconnect the black vacuum supply hose from the inline vacuum in the engine compartment. Disconnect the blower motor wiring and remove the ducts (see illus-

check valve 8

tration).

9

Working under the hood, remove the two nuts retaining the heater/e-

vaporator case to the dash panel. 10.5

Remove the

retaining clip (arrow)

1

In

the passenger compartment,

remove the screw attaching the heat-

er/evaporator case support bracket to the cowl top panel.

5

If

the motor

is

being replaced, transfer the fan to the

new motor by re-

(see illustration) and pulling the fan off the shaft. removal. Reconnect the battery cable, check operation of the blower and then reset the glove compartment door.

moving the

6

clip

Installation is the reverse of

11

Heater core - removal and installation

Refer

to illustrations 11.8

to the

the nut retaining the bracket below the heater/evaporator

dash panel.

Carefully pull the heater/evaporator case away from the dash panel 1 and remove the case assembly from the vehicle. 1 Remove the four heater core access cover screws and detach the access cover (see illustration). 1

11

Remove

case

Remove the tube seal from the

heater core tubes.

Lift

Installation

and 11.13

Warning: The air conditioning system is under high pressure. DO NOT disassemble any part of the system (hoses, compressor, line fittings, etc.)

1

Install

the heater core into the case with the tube seal on the outside of

the case.

EVAPORATOR CASE ASSY

FLOOR

the heater core

and seals from the case.

AIR

DISTRIBUTION OUCT

RM

R H REG OUCT

11 .8

Heater/evaporator components - exploded view

DEMISTER ASSY

6 9 7

1 2 3

.

Chapter 3

3-11

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems HEATER CORE TUBE SEAL

HEATER CORE

COVER SEAL

11.13

Heater core components - exploded view

HEATER CORE ACCESS COVER

Position the heater core access cover on the case. Install the four at-

1

taching screws. 1 Install the heater/evaporator case assembly verse order of removal.

18

Refill

in

the vehicle

in

the re-

the cooling system and check for leaks.

Return the vehicle to the shop which discharged the air conditioning for evacuating, recharging and leak testing the system. Ford recommends

accumulator be replaced before recharging the system - consult your dealer.

that the air conditioner

2

Air conditioning

Refer

system - check and maintenance

to illustration 12. 14

Warning: The air conditioning system is under high pressure. DO NOT disassemble any pan: of the system (hoses, compressor, line fittings, etc.) until after the system has been depressurized by a dealer service department or service station. 1 Regularly inspect the condenser and brush away leaves and bugs.

2

fins (located

ahead

of the radiator)

Clean out the evaporator drain tube by slipping a wire

into the

open-

any sign

of de-

ing.

3

refrigerant hoses.

If

there

is

have them replaced by a dealer or

air

condition-

ing shop.

At the

scribed

if

in

Adding

recommended intervals, check the compressor drivebelt as deChapter

1

refrigerant

kit at an automotive parts store. A charga 14-ounce can of refrigerant, a tap valve and a short section of hose which can be used to connect the tap valve to the system low side service port. Because one can may not be sufficient to bring the system charge up to its proper level, it's a good idea to buy a few 1

The air conditioning compressor should be run for at least 1 minutes a month. This is especially important during the winter months because 5

Because of the complexity of the air conditioning system and the speequipment required to service it, in depth troubleshooting and repairs are beyond the scope of this manual. However, simple checks and component replacement procedures are provided in this Chapter. The most common cause of poor cooling is simply a low refrigerant 7 charge. If a noticeable drop in cooling ability occurs, the following quick checks will help you determine whether the refrigerant level is low. Warm up the engine to its normal operating temperature. 8 Switch on the air conditioning to its coldest setting and put the blower 9 on high speed. Open the windows so the air conditioning doesn't cycle off as it cools the interior. 1 With the compressor engaged - the clutch will make an audible click and the center of the clutch will rotate - feel the evaporator inlet pipe between the orifice tube and the accumulator with one hand while placing your other hand on the surface of the accumulator housing. both feel a little If both surfaces feel about the same temperature and 1 cooler than the surrounding air, the refrigerant charge is probably okay. Further inspection of the system is beyond the scope of this manual and should be left to a professional. 1 If the inlet pipe has frost accumulation or feels cooler than the accumulator surface, the refrigerant charge is low. Add refrigerant as described 6

below.

Check the condition of the

terioration or hardening,

4

Use of the defroster

cial

1

1

long term non-use can cause hardening of the seals. activates the compressor.

ing

Buy an automotive charging

kit

typically includes

4 5 6

3-12

Chapter 3

Connect the charging

12.14

kit

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

to the low-side of the air

conditioning system

additional cans.

Make sure the first can contains

system leaks, the dye

will

red refrigerant dye.

leak out with the refrigerant

If

and help you

the

13.3 Accumulator details - exploded view (supercharged model shown, non-supercharged similar)

pin-

Never add more than three cans. Connect the charging kit by following the manufacturer's instructions (see illustration). Warning: DO NOT connect the charging kit hose to the high pressure side of the system. The high side has smaller diameter tubpoint the location of the leak. 1

ing than the low side. 1

Warm up the

1

Add

engine and operate the system. system until both the accumulator and the evaporator inlet pipe (at the firewall) feel about the same temrefrigerant to the low side of the

perature. Allow stabilization time

17

Once

about the

1

3

same

Refer

refrigerant addition.

temperature, add the contents remaining

Air conditioning

and

between each

the accumulator surface and the evaporator

inlet in

pipe feel

the can.

system accumulator - removal

installation

to illustrations 13.3

and

13.5

Warning: The air conditioning system is under high pressure. DO NOT disassemble any part of the system (hose, compressor, line fittings, etc.) until after the system has been depressurized by a dealer service depart-

ment or service

Removal Have the

13.5

Use the spring lock

tool to disconnect the refrigerant behind the compressor

station.

Installation air

conditioning system discharged by a dealer or service

the reverse of removal. Replace O-rings at connections

9

Installation

station.

with

new ones designed

Disconnect the negative battery cable. Unplug the electrical connector from the pressure switch on top of the 3 accumulator (see illustration). Using a spring lock tool, disconnect the refrigerant line from the accu4 mulator at the firewall. Using a spring lock tool, disconnect the other refrigerant line from the 5

refrigerant

1

2

accumulator.

On supercharged models, the connection is at the accumu-

lator. On non-supercharged models, follow the refrigerant line from the accumulator to the rear of the air conditioning compressor. The connection is just behind the compressor (see illustration). Plug any open fittings to prevent entry of dirt and moisture. 6

7

Loosen the pinch

bolt

on the mounting bracket and

lift

the accumula-

tor out. If a new accumulator is being installed, remove the pressure switch and Schrader valve and pour the oil out into a measuring cup, noting the amount. Add fresh refrigerant oil to the new accumulator equal to the amount removed from the old unit.

8

line

1

is

for air conditioning

systems and lubricated with

oil.

Take the vehicle back to the shop that discharged it. Have the system evacuated, charged and leak tested.

air

con-

ditioning

14

Air conditioning

and Refer

system compressor - removal

installation

to illustrations

14.6a

and 14.6b

Warning: The air conditioning system is under high pressure. DO NOT disassemble any part of the system (hoses, compressor, line fittings, etc.) until after the system has been depressurized by a dealer service department or service station. Note: Ford recommends that the orifice tube and the accumulator (see Section 13) be replaced whenever the compressor is replaced. Have the orifice tube replaced by a dealer service department or repair shop.

Chapter 3

3-13

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

COMPRESSOR

V

SUCTION/DISCHARGE

MOUNTING BRACKET

MANfOLD

COMPRESSOR BOLT

1

4.6a

Compressor mounting

details

- supercharged models

COMPRESSOR SUCTION/DISCHARGE MANIFOLD

Compressor mounting - non-supercharged models

14.6b details

COMPRESSOR

MOUNTING BRACKET

Removal

5

Disconnect the refrigerant lines from the rear

of the

compressor.

On

vehicles having "spring lock" type couplings, slip the special tool of the 1

Have the air conditioning system discharged by a dealer or air condi-

3

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Disconnect the compressor clutch wiring harness.

4

Remove

2

proper size over the tubing out of the

tioning shop.

the drivebelt (see Chapter

1 ).

fitting,

fitting.

push the

tool into the spring lock

and

pull

Some lines bolt to the rear of the compressor.

the

Plug

fittings to prevent entry of dirt and moisture. Unbolt the compressor from the mounting brackets (see illustrations) and lift it out of the vehicle.

the

6

open

1

3-14

15.5

Chapter 3

Disconnect the

Cooling, heating and

fittings (arrows) with a

air

conditioning systems

spring lock tool

15.6a

Remove the mounting

bolts (arrows)

Installation a new compressor is being installed, follow the directions which come with the compressor regarding the draining of excess oil prior to in7

If

stallation.

8

Installation is the reverse of

new

removal. Replace any O-rings with

ones specifically made for the purpose and

lubricate

them with

refrigerant

oil.

9

Have the system evacuated, recharged and

that

discharged

1

5

Refer

shop U-NUT

Air conditioning

and

leak tested by the

it.

(4\

system condenser - removal

installation

to illustrations 15.5,

15.6a

BRACKET ASSY

and 15.6b

Warning: The air conditioning system is under high pressure. DO NOT disassemble any part of the system (hoses, compressor, line fittings, etc.) until after the system has been depressurized by a dealer service depart-

ment or service

•

LEFT

CONDENSER ASSY BRACKET ASSY

station.

-

RIGHT

Note Ford recommends that the accumulator be replaced whenever the condenser is replaced (see Section 13). :

1

5.6b

Condenser mounting

details

- exploded view

Removal 1

Have the

conditioning system discharged by a dealer or air condi-

air

tioning shop.

Disconnect and remove the battery. Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1 ). Remove the radiator (see Chapter 3). 4 Disconnect the refrigerant lines from the upper right (passenger's) 5 corner of the condenser (see illustration) using a "spring lock" tool. Remove the mounting bolts from the condenser brackets (see illus6 2

16

3

trations). Lift the condenser out of the vehicle and plug the 7 and moisture from entering.

lines to

prevent

dirt

and heater control assembly - removal and installation Air conditioner

Refer to

illustrations 16.2, 16.3a, 16.3b, 16.3c, 16.4, 16.5, 16.6

and

16.9

Note: This Section applies to the manually controlled system. The optional automatic temperature control system requires tools and expertise beyond the scope of the average home mechanic and is therefore not

covered in

this

manual.

Removal Installation 8

If

the

1

same condenser will be

reinstalled, store

it

with the line fittings

on top to prevent oil from draining out. If a new condenser is being installed, pour one ounce 9 into the new condenser prior to installation. 1

Reinstall the

rubber pads are

of refrigerant

oil

place under the condenser.

1

Have the system evacuated, recharged and

that

discharged

it.

Disconnect the negative battery cable. Obtain two control removal tools (Ford T87P-1 9061

-A, or equivalent).

these are unavailable, fabricate two "U" shaped tools from coat hanger wire and push them into the four holes in the faceplate (see illustration). Apply a side load to the control to disengage the clips. Pull the control 3 assembly out from the dash sufficiently to unplug the electrical connectors If

components in the reverse order of removal. Be sure the in

2

leak tested by the

shop

(see illustrations). 4 Disconnect the vacuum connector by removing the push nut and ing off the plug (see illustration).

pull-

Chapter 3

16.2

16.3b

Insert a

...

U-shaped wire

into the holes in the faceplate

and release the connector

3-15

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

16.3c

16.3a

Unclip the rear connector

Pull the control out of the

16.4

dash

Detach the vacuum connector

clips with a small screwdriver

16.5

Remove the temperature control cable retaining clip and slip the 5 cable from the lever (see illustration). To replace the light bulbs, twist the socket counterclockwise and pull 6 the socket and bulb out (see illustration). Insert the new bulb in the socket

and

twist

it

into

16.6

Unclip the temperature control cable

place clockwise.

To replace a bulb, twist the socket

Installation Reconnect the electrical connectors. Reconnect the vacuum connector and push on the retaining nuts. Caution: Do Not attempt to screw the nuts on, as the posts will crack. Check to ensure the self-adjusting clip is at least 3/4 inch from the end 9 7

8

4 2 3

1

3-16

Chapter 3

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

^m ^m o 1

6.9

Cable adjustment details Control cable assembly

1

2

Control wire

3

Initial

position for installation

or readjustment

4

Self-adjusting clip

mm (3/4 inch)

5

18

6

Pliers

loop of the control cable.

If

necessary, slide the self-adjusting

clip

down the

(away from the end) approximately 3/4 inch (see illustration). 10 Snap the cable housing into place in the control assembly. Connect the loop end of the control cable to the temperature lever arm on the concontrol wire

trol

assembly.

1

arm.

Install

a pushnut to retain the cable end loop on the temperature lever

1

Push the control assembly into the instrument panel

until

it

snaps into

place. 1

The temperature control cable

is

the temperature selector lever to the lever to the right

assembly 1

end

of the slot

movement of Move the temperature selector

self-adjusting with the

right.

(WARM)

in

to position the self-adjusting clip.

Check

for

proper control operation.

the bezel face of the control

Fuel and exhaust systems

Chapter 4 Contents

- removal and installation housing - removal and installation replacement

pump - check pump - removal and

4 7

Accelerator cable

9

Fuel

Air cleaner

8

Fuel

1

Fuel tank cleaning and repair - general information

6

1

Fuel tank - removal and installation

5

Air

filter

Exhaust system check Exhaust system servicing - general information Fuel injection system - component removal and Fuel injection system - general information Fuel injection system - pressure check Fuel lines and fittings - replacement Fuel pressure relief procedure

See Chapter See Chapter installation

installation

General information Supercharger and related components - removal

13 12

and

10

installation

Supercharger - diagnosis Supercharger - general information

11

3 2

Specifications

Fuel pressure Engine running Non-supercharged Supercharged Key on, engine off Non-supercharged Supercharged

Torque Specifications Air bypass-to-throttle

body

rail

screws

Fuel rail-to-intake manifold bolts Intake elbow bolts Intercooler-to-tube(s) retaining nuts Intercooler-to-radiator support retaining

Outlet tube-to-bracket bolt or stud Outlet tube-to-bracket nut

Supercharger adapter collar nut Supercharger outlet retaining bolts Supercharger retaining bolts 8 1

mm mm body

35-45 35-40

psi

psi

psi

screws

87 in-lbs 34 in-lbs 87 in-lbs 90 in-lbs 14 to 22 36 to 60 in-lbs 30 to 40 ' 30 to 40 1 48 15 to 22 14 52

2

Throttle

psi

Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)

bolts

Fuel pressure regulator-to-fuel

30-45 30-40

retaining bolts

Upper-to-lower intake manifold bolts

19

24

to to

22 70

1

16 15

14

7

2 3 4

4-2

Fuel and exhaust systems

Chapter 4

where a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water heater or clothes drya pilot light is present. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a Class B type fire extinguisher on hand. er) with

^ -r-j

,

gpi

11

y p Spring lock couplings - disassembly

Bill

and reassembly Refer

^

1

i

to illustrations 3.

The

fuel

male end

hi

3.6

3.5,

and 3.

of the spring lock coupling,

utilize

which

is

spring lock couplings.

The

girded by two O-rings,

is in-

fitting. The coupling is secured by a garter disengagement by gripping the flared end of the fe-

serted into a female flared spring which prevents

male

w.V

2 i ]

(see illustration).

fitting

The fuel feed and

return line fittings are not the

connect the 1/2-inch feed

p

line coupling,

you

will

same diameter. To dis-

need

to obtain

a spring

D87L-9280-B or its equivalent; for the 3/8-inch return fitD87L-9280-A or its equivalent (Ford dealers may not have

lock coupling tool

To relieve the fuel pressure, disconnect the and run the engine until it stops

2.2

1,

supply and return lines

inertia

switch

ting,

get tool

these tools on hand, but they are readily available from tool manufacturers like Kent-Moore, Snap-on and Mac, and may be available at some auto parts stores).

Disconnecting the coupling 3

General information

1

5

Fuel system

Pry the safety clip from each fitting with a small screwdriver (see illus-

tration).

The fuel system consists

of the fuel tank, the fuel

pump, an

air

cleaner

assembly, a fuel injection system (with a supercharger on SC engines) and the various steel, plastic and/or nylon lines and fittings connecting everything together.

The fuel pump

is

electric

and

is

mounted

inside the fuel

tank.

Exhaust system All

Before detaching the spring lock couplings, relieve the system fuel

pressure (see Section 2). 4 Detach the cable from the negative terminal of the battery.

vehicles are equipped with a pair of manifolds, a pair of catalytic

6

Place the appropriately sized spring lock coupling tool

in

position (see

illustration).

open side of the cage to expand the (see illustration). Note: The garter spring may not release if the tool is cocked while pushing it into the cage opening. Once the garter spring is expanded, pull the fittings apart. 8 7

Close the tool and push

garter spring

9

Remove

it

into the

and release the female

the

fitting

tool.

converters (below each exhaust manifold), an exhaust pipe, a resonator

and a

Connecting the coupling 10 Make sure the garter spring is in the cage of the male fitting. it's missing, install a new spring by pushing into the cage opening. the gar-

muffler.

If

If

it

ter spring is

2

Fuel pressure relief procedure

damaged, remove from the cage with a small wire hook (do and install a new spring (see illustration 3.1 for it

not use a screwdriver) garter spring sizes).

Refer

to illustration

The

11

2.2

which shuts off fuel to the engine in the event of a collision, affords a simple and convenient means by which fuel pressure can be relieved before servicing fuel injection components. Open the trunk lid, peel back the carpet from the left side of the trunk 2 and locate the inertia switch (see illustration). Unplug the electrical connector from the inertia switch. Start the en3 1

inertia switch,

gine and allow

4

it

to run until

it

The fuel system pressure

stops. is

now

relieved. Before beginning

work on

the fuel system, disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery.

Even though the system is now depressurized, always place a rag 5 over any fuel fitting that is being disconnected.

When finished working on the fuel system, simply plug the electrical 6 connector back into the switch. Reconnect the cable to the negative termi-

Clean

all dirt

or foreign material from both pieces of the coupling.

Warning Use only the specified O-rings - they are made of a special material and the use of any other O-ring may allow the connection to leak dur:

ing vehicle operation. 1

Lubricate the male

fitting

with clean engine

fitting

and O-rings and the

inside of the the female

oil.

the plastic indicator ring into the cage opening if the indicator be used. 1 Fit the female fitting onto the male fitting and push them together until the garter spring snaps over the flared end of the female fitting. Note: If the fitting is equipped with a plastic indicator ring, the ring will snap out of the cage opening when the coupling is connected to indicate engagement. If no indicator ring is used, make sure that the coupling is engaged by visual verification that the garter spring is over the flared end of the female fitting 1

Install

ring

is

to

(see illustration).

nal of the battery.

3

4

Fuel lines and fittings - replacement

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don 7 smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don work in a garage 't

Fuel

pump - check

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don't work in a garage where a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water heater or clothes dry't

Chapter 4

4-3

Fuel and exhaust systems

Connection and Disconnection Procedures |TO DISCONNECT COUPLING)

O-RINGS-SUPPUED IN E35Y19O690A KIT

CAUTION-DISCHARGE SYSTEM BEFORE DISCONNECTING COUPLING

FEMALE

NOTE:

FITTING

EACH END OF TOOL

TOOL

T81P 19623-G ISA DIFFERENT SIZE

T81P-19623-G 3/8 AND 1/2 INCH T81P-19623 Gl 3/8 INCH

TO

FIT 3/8

AND

1/2

INCH COUPLINGS

T81P-19623G2 T83P 19623 C

INCH INCH

1/2

5/8

CAGE

CAGE SPRING LOCK COUPLING DISCONNECTED

TOOL TO COUPLING SO THAT TOOL CAN ENTER CAGE TO RELEASE THE GARTER SPRING. FIT

TO CONNECT COUPLING REPLACEMENT GARTER SPRINGS 3/8 1/2 5/8

INCH - E1ZZ-19E576-A INCH - E1ZZ 19E576-B INCH - E35Y 19E576 A

ALSO AVAILABLE

'N

E35Y 19D690-A KIT

PUSH TOOL INTO CAGE

CHECK FOR MISSING OR DAMAGED GARTER SPRING-REMOVE DAMAGEO SPRING WITH SMALL HOOKED WIRE -INSTALL NEW SPRING IF DAMAGEO OR MISSING.

B -

O

PUSH THE TOOL INTO THE CAGE OPENING TO RELEASE THE FEMALE FITTING FROM THE GARTER SPRING.

©

PULL THE COUPLING MALE AND FEMALE FITTINGS APART.

©

REMOVE THE TOOL FROM THE DISCONNECTED SPRING LOCK COUPLING.

INSTALL NEW

ORINGS-USE ONLY SPECIFIED O RINGS

A - CLEAN FITTINGS

-SUPPLIED

IN

E35Y19D690A KIT

D- ASSEMBLE LUBRICATE WITH

CLEAN REFRIGERANT OIL

e

FITTING

TOGETHER

BY PUSHING WITH A SLIGHT TWISTING

MOTION

GARTER SPRING

TO ENSURE COUPLING ENGAGEMENT. VISUALLY CHECK TO BE SURE GARTER SPRING IS OVER FLARED END OF FEMALE FITTING.

o 3.1

When

disconnecting and connecting spring lock couplings, refer to this illustration for the proper garter spring, O-ring and spring lock coupling tool part numbers

4-4

3.5

Fuel and exhaust systems

Chapter 4

If

3.6 Open the spring-loaded halves of the spring lock coupling tool and place it in position around the coupling, then close it

the spring lock couplings are clips, pry them off

equipped with safety

with a small screwdriver

3.7 To Disconnect the coupling, push the tool into the cage opening to release the female fitting from the garter spring, then pull the male and female fittings apart

a pilot light is present. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on er) with

the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a Class guisher on hand.

B

type

©

fire extin-

Note: The electric fuel pump and circuit are an integral part of the EEC-IV system, so a complete diagnosis must determine whether the pump and the circuit are operating properly.

is

however, should be well-equipped repair shop.

1

Always

fittings

2

left to

verify that there

is

Bh4 5

often a sign that the fuel

pump has malfunctioned. Therefore, perform the following check of the pump if the above symptoms occur. Further investigation of the fuel pump circuit,

(LOOSE)

t

Such a procedure is beyond the scope of

the average home mechanic. However, a loss of fuel flow and/or pressure,

usually indicated by a reduction in performance,

WHITE INDICATOR RING

WHITE INDICATOR RING

FEMALE FITTING

a dealer service department or other

fuel in the

tank and none of the lines and

are leaking fuel before starting this procedure.

The easiest way to determine whether the electric in-tank fuel pump is

have an assistant turn the ignition key to Start while you put filler neck and listen for the telltale whirring sound that indicates the pump is operating. If the pump is silent, proceed to the next Step. 3 Locate the inertia switch (see Section 2) and, using a self-powered test light or ohmmeter, make sure there is continuity between the switch terminals. If the switch has opened, reset it. If the switch has not opened, check the power and ground circuits to 4 the pump (refer to the Wiring Diagrams at the end of this book). If the power and ground circuits are okay, use a self-powered test light 5 or ohmmeter to check the continuity between the pump positive and ground terminals (you must lower the fuel tank to do this - see Section 5). If there is no continuity, the pump is defective. Replace it (see Sec6 working

is to

your ear to the

WHITE INDICATOR RING (LOOSE)

tion 7).

7

If

there

is

continuity,

^ ©

bypass the pump circuit and, using a fused jump-

er wire, apply battery voltage to the positive terminal of the

pump

3.14

while

Spring lock coupling reconnection

grounding the negative terminal of the pump with another jumper wire. If the pump operates, there is an open or short-circuit condition some8

where

in

the

power circuit.

If the pump doesn't operate, replace it (see Section 7). 9 10 Any further testing of the electric fuel pump, its relay or the circuit should be conducted by a dealer service department or other repair shop.

er) with

a pilot light is present.

If

you spill any fuel on your skin,

rinse

it

off

immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a Class B type fire extinguisher on hand. Note: Don begin this procedure until the fuel gauge indicates the tank is empty or nearly empty. If the tank must be removed when it s full (tor example, if the fuel pump malfunctions), siphon an, remaining fuel from the tank 't

5

Fuel tank - removal and installation

prior to removal.

Refer

to illustrations 5.

7,

5.9

and 5. 10

1

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don't work in a garage where a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water heater or clothes dry't

Relieve the fuel system pressure (see Section

2).

Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. 3 Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. 4 Unless the vehicle has been driven far enough to completely empty the tank, it's a good idea to siphon the residual fuel out before removing the 2

7

2

Chapter 4

5.7

Support the tank before loosening

Location of the fuel vapor cross-over tube (arrow)

7

Fuel

Refer

FUEL PUMP AND BRACKET

DETENT To remove the turn

fuel it

pump

to gain

access to the electrical connectors and hoses

gerous work. Even after cleaning and flushing, explosive fumes can remain and could explode during repair of the tank. 2 If the fuel tank is removed from the vehicle, it should not be placed in an area where sparks or open flames could ignite the fumes coming out of the tank. Be especially careful inside garages where a natural gas appliance is located because the pilot light could cause an explosion.

RING

LOCKING RING

7.4

Lower the tank enough

5.10

the retaining strap bolts

LOCKING LOCKING RING

4-5

Fuel and exhaust systems

locking ring, you must

counterclockwise

pump - removal and

installation

to illustration 7.4

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don't work in a garage where a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water heater or clothes dryer) with a pilot light is present. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a Class B type fire extinguisher on hand. 't

1

Relieve the fuel system pressure (see Section

2).

Remove the fuel tank (see Section 5). 3 Remove any dirt that has accumulated around the fuel pump attaching flange so that won't fall into the tank when the fuel pump/sending unit 2

DO NOT start the siphoning action by mouth! Use a siphoning kit, available at most auto parts stores. 5 Remove the exhaust pipe and exhaust shield. Loosen the hose clamps securing the fuel filler neck hose and the 6 breather hose to the fuel tank, then detach both hoses. 7 Detach the end of the vapor cross-over hose near the rear of the drive-

tank from the vehicle. Warning:

shaft (see illustration).

8

Place a transmission jack or floor jack under the tank and position a

block of

wood between the jack pad and the tank. Raise the jack until it's Be careful not to deform the fuel tank, fuel tank sup-

supporting the tank. port or straps.

9

Remove

4

lines

and electrical con-

nectors from the tank (see illustration). 11

Remove

1

Installation

the fuel tank from the vehicle. is

pipe on the end of the pump. the assembly

include a

will

Clean the

fuel

If

you're installing a

new

new pump/sending

unit,

strainer.

pump mounting flange, the tank mounting surface and Apply a thin coat of heavy it in place during assembly. make sure the detents on the ring fully

Installation is the reverse of removal.

r g ease to the

When

new

locking ring gasket to hold

installing the locking ring,

engage

with the tabs

on the

tank.

the reverse of removal.

Air cleaner

housing - removal and installation

Fuel tank cleaning and repair - general information

Refer Repairs to the fuel tank or filler neck should be performed by a professional with the proper training to carry out this critical and potentially dan1

until it's

the seal ring groove.

8 6

Using a brass punch, tap the locking ring counterclockwise

from the tank, being careful not to bend the sending unit arm. Remove the old locking ring gasket and discard it. 5 If you're planning to reinstall the original fuel pump/sending unit, re6 move the strainer, wash it in clean solvent, then push it back onto the metal

8

Lower the tank enough to disconnect the fuel

pulled out.

loose (see illustration). Pull the the fuel pump/sending unit assembly

7

the bolts from the fuel tank retaining straps (see illustra-

tion). 1

it

is

1

to illustrations 8.

1

and 8.

Loosen the clamps on the

tube (see illustration).

air

cleaner

air outlet

tube and remove the

4-6

Fuel and exhaust systems

Chapter 4

CLAMP

THROTTLE BODY

CLEANER ASSY AIR

RH FENDER PLASTIC PUSH PINS MUST BE FULLY ENGAGED INTO SHEET METAL BEFORE SPLASH SHIELD IS INSTALLED.

8.1

2

Mounting details of the

By unsnapping the elbow from the PCV retainer clip, disconnect the hose at the air cleaner. Slide off the hoses from the PCV filter adapter. Remove the air cleaner cover and filter element. Remove the PCV filter retaining clip and remove the retainer from the

cleaner housing

air

ing out.

PCV

7

Installation

3

8

After installation,

4 5 air

6

7

cleaner

9

Remove the air cleaner and/or resonator. When installing the resonator be sure the

engaged of

the reverse of removal.

make

sure the throttle closes and opens

fully,

with-

out binding.

tray.

Remove the filter pack from the retainer. Remove the nuts retaining the air cleaner assembly to the

10

into the

Fuel injection system - general information

resonator

(see illustration). 8

is

Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) system used is known as a multipulse time, speed density control design. Fuel is metered into the intake air stream in accordance with engine demand through six injectors

The

plastic

push pins are

sheet metal. The remainder of installation

is

point, fully

the reverse

removal.

mounted on a tuned intake manifold. The injectors are energized in sequence to follow the engine firing order. Each injector is activated once every other crankshaft revolution.

9

Refer 1

An on-board

Accelerator cable - removal and installation

to illustration

9.3

Push the accelerator cable nylon bushing out of the arm

Remove

the cruise control cable

(if

of the accel-

equipped).

Using a screwdriver, detach the accelerator cable at the 3 (see illustration).

4

Remove

throttle

body

the screw retaining the cable housing-to-engine mounting

bracket.

5

Remove

computer accepts in-

necessary to maintain a prescribed air/fuel ratio throughout the entire enThe computer then outputs a command to the fuel injectors to meter the approximate quantity of fuel. The period of time that the injectors are energized (known as "on time" or "pulse width") is controlled by the EEC computer. Air entering the engine

gine operational range.

erator pedal.

2

Electronic Engine Control (EEC-IV)

puts from various engine sensors to compute the required fuel flow rate

is sensed by speed, pressure and temperature sensors. The information from these sensors are processed by the ElC-IV computer. The computer determines the needed injector pulse width and outputs a command to

the injector to meter the exact quantity of fuel. the cable from the retainer on the upper intake manifold

The EEC-IV engine

brace.

altitude.

From inside the passenger compartment, remove the cable housing 6 from the dash panel by depressing the two vertical snap tabs in and push-

of

An

control

electric in-tank fuel

system also compensates

pump forces

metal and plastic lines and an

for

changes

in

pressurized fuel through a series the fuel rail.

inline fuel filter/reservoir to

Chapter 4

After

8.7

removing the

air filter,

remove

the air cleaner assembly retaining nuts

9.3

4-7

Fuel and exhaust systems

Use a screwdriver from the

to pry the cable

Connect the fuel pressure Schrader valve on the rail, start the engine and note

11.3

gauge

throttle shaft

fuel

to the

the fuel pressure

Schrader valves, so

it

not necessary to detach any fuel lines to read the

is

fuel pressure.

The special Ford fuel pressure gauge/adapter assembly specified above is designed to relieve fuel pressure, as well as measure through the Schrader valve. you have this gauge, you can use this method as an 2

it,

If

alternative to the fuel pressure relief procedure outlined

in

Section

2.

Warning: Never, however, attempt to relieve fuel pressure through the Schrader valve without this special setup. To attach the gauge, simply remove the valve cap, screw on the 3 adapter and attach the gauge to the adapter (see illustration). Start the engine and allow to reach a steady idle. Note the indicated 4 fuel pressure reading and compare to the value listed in this Chapter's it

it

Specifications.

5

If

the indicated fuel pressure

probably either a leaking fuel hose), a malfunctioning fuel

is

lower than specified, the problem

line (possibly inside

the fuel tank at the

is

pump

pump, faulty fuel pressure regulator or a leakone that doesn't con-

ing injector. Carefully pinch the fuel return line (the

nect to the Schrader valve side of the fuel folded rag over the line

Remove the

six bolts securing the upper intake manifold to the lower intake manifold (arrows)

The

rail assembly incorporates electrically actuated fuel injectors diabove each intake port. When energized, the injectors spray a me-

rectly

first

to

rail) with a pair of pliers (place a prevent damage) and watch the pressure

gauge. If the pressure now increases, the pressure regulator is defective. If the indicated pressure is higher than specified, the cause could be a 6 blocked fuel return line or a stuck fuel pressure regulator. Try tapping on the pressure regulator- if the needle on the gauge drops, replace the regulator.

tered quantity of fuel into the intake air stream.

A constant fuel pressure is maintained in the fuel rail by a pressure regulator.

The

downstream from the fuel injectors. Expasses through the regulator and returns to the fuel tank through regulator

cess a fuel return fuel

is

positioned

Fuel injection system -

12

component removal and

Upper intake manifold and

line.

throttle

installation

body assembly

(non-supercharged models) Refer 11

Fuel injection system - pressure check

to illustrations 12.

7 and 12.8

Removal Detach the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. the air cleaner housing outlet tube (see Section 8). Unplug the electrical connectors from the air bypass valve, throttle 3 position sensor and EGR transducer. 4 Disconnect the throttle cable, cruise control cable (if equipped) and the downshift cable from the throttle shaft (see Section 9). Clearly label, then detach, the vacuum lines from the vacuum tree, the 5 EGR valve, the fuel pressure regulator and the canister purge lines from the fittings on the throttle body. 6 Detach the PCV hose from the fitting on the rear of the upper man1

Refer

to illustration 11.3

2

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don t smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don't work in a garage where a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water heater or clothes dryer) with a pilot light is present. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a Class B type fire extinguisher on hand. 1 With a Ford T80L-9974-B fuel pressure gauge (or equivalent) and adapter T85L-9974-A (or equivalent), the fuel pressure can be measured

easily

and

quickly.

The

fuel rails

on these vehicles are equipped with

Remove

ifold.

7

Remove

tion).

the six upper intake manifold retaining bolts (see illustra-

3 4 5 6 7

1

4-8

Chapter 4

Fuel and exhaust systems

Exploded view of intake manifold assembly (non-super charged engine) 12.8

Cap-Schrader valve Schrader valve Fuel rail Fuel pressure regulator

1

2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Fuel injector Retainer

Thermostat

Gasket Housing

10

Bolt

11

Throttle

12

Gasket Gasket

13

body

bypass valve

14

Throttle air

15

EGR valve assembly

16

Gasket

17

Bolt/stud

18

20

Upper intake manifold Gasket Lower intake manifold

21

Stud/bolt

22 23

Bolt

19

8

Fuel

rail

assembly

®/-

Remove the upper intake

SUPERCHARGER ASSY

manifold and throttle body as an assembly

from the lower intake manifold (see illustration). Remove the old gasket and discard it. 9 Installation

Clean and inspect the gasket surfaces of the upper and lower intake If it's necessary to scrape away any old gasket material, be extremely careful not to damage either gasket mating surface. 1 Position the new gasket on the mounting face of the lower intake manifold. The use of alignment studs may be helpful. 12 Using the alignment studs to keep the gasket in position, place the upper intake manifold and throttle body assembly in position on the lower manifold. Note: If the manifold is not equipped with alignment studs, make sure that the gasket remains in place when positioning the upper intake 1

manifolds.

manifold 1

and throttle body.

Install

the six upper intake manifold retaining bolts and tighten them to

the torque listed 1

Throttle Refer

Chapter's Specifications.

in this

The remainder

of installation is the reverse of removal.

body

to illustration 12.

19

Removal Detach the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. Remove the air cleaner housing outlet tube (see Section 8). 1 Unplug the electrical connectors from the throttle position sensor and throttle air bypass valve. 18 Detach the throttle body coolant hose (if equipped). Detach the throttle cable, cruise control cable (if equipped) and transmission down1

COOLANT HOSE' CONNECTION

1

shift

cable (see Section

19

Remove

12.19

Throttle

body mounting

THROTTLE BODY

details (supercharged engine)

9).

the four throttle body mounting nuts and the throttle body

(see accompanying illustration and illustration 12.8).

20 Remove and discard the gasket between the mounting surface.

throttle

body and

its

Chapter 4

4-9

Fuel and exhaust systems THROTTLE AIR BYPASS VALVE

THROTTLE POSITION

SENSOR

1

1

2.25a

Use a screwdriver

2.25b

Locations of the throttle position sensor and throttle bypass valve on the supercharged engine

to disconnect the electrical connector

for the throttle air

bypass valve

Installation

Throttle Position (TP)

Clean the gasket mating surfaces. If scraping is necessary, be extremely careful not to damage either gasket surface or allow material to drop into the manifold or plenum. 22 Install the throttle body gasket over the mounting studs, then install

Refer

21

the throttle body.

23 24

Tighten the nuts to the torque listed

The remainder

in this

Chapters Specifications.

Refer

Removal Scribe a reference mark across the edge of the sensor and to the

throttle

33

12.25b and 12.26

electrical

connector from the

(see illustrations). 26 Remove both mounting bolts from the

air

Remove

Remove

Remove

ensure that the

TP sensor

is

sensor.

positioned correctly during

the two retaining screws from the throttle position sensor the

TP

illustration

and

illustration 12.25b).

sensor.

the

air

bypass valve (see

illustra-

28 Clean the gasket mating surfaces. Note: If scraping is necessary, be extremely careful not to damage the air bypass valve or the throttle body gasket surfaces or drop material into the throttle body. 29 The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to tighten the mounting bolts securely.

mounting bolts

air

bypass

reverse of the removal procedure.

Refer

rail

assembly

to illustrations 12.39, 12.41,

and 12.42

Removal

bypass valve and gasket.

Remove the throttle

Installation is the

Fuel air

Installation

2.26

to

connector from the

bypass valve assembly

tion).

1

body

electrical

Installation

34

Unplug the

27

TP

Unplug the

31

(see accompanying

bypass valve

Removal 25

sensor

12.32

installation.

of installation is the reverse of removal.

to illustrations 12.25a,

to illustration

30

32

Throttle air

air

35 36 37 38

Remove

the fuel tank

filler

cap

to release fuel tank pressure.

Relieve the fuel system pressure (see Section

2).

Detach the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. Remove the upper intake manifold and throttle body assembly (see

Stepl).

39

Unplug the

electrical

connectors from the

fuel injectors

(see illustra-

tion).

12.32 You'll have to use a stubby screwdriver to remove the screws mounting the throttle position sensor

non-supercharged engine shown

Use a small screwdriver to loosen the locking tangs on the electrical connectors for the injectors 12.39

4-10

Chapter 4

Fuel and exhaust systems

CHARGING ASSY

and tighten them securely. The remainder of installation is the reverse

retaining bolts

45

FUEL PRESSURE

of removal.

REGULATOR

Fuel injectors Refer

to illustrations

12.48

and 12.49

Removal 46 47

Remove

the fuel

Grasp each

de-to-side (from the fuel

48

assembly (see Step 35). body and pull on it while gently rocking

rail

injector

rail

it

from

si-

or manifold).

After noting the positions of the O-rings

on the

injectors,

remove and

discard them (see illustration).

49 Inspect the washer and the plastic "hat" covering the pintle on the end of each injector (see illustration) for signs of deterioration. Replace them if

necessary. Note:

//

the hat

is

missing, look for

it

the intake manifold.

in

Installation

50

Lubricate the

new

O-rings with

light

grade

and install them on the ends of each grease - it will clog the injectors.

equivalent) silicone

Using a

51

light twisting,

pushing motion,

the lower intake manifold or the fuel is

Mounting details of the

fuel rail

install

Note:

or

Do not use

the injectors into either

assembly (use whichever method

easier for you).

52 53 12.41

rail

(ESE-M2C39-F

oil

injector.

Install

the fuel

rail

The remainder

assembly as outlined previously.

of installation

is

the reverse of removal.

assembly

Fuel pressure regulator Refer

40 fuel

41

Using a special spring lock coupling tool, disconnect the crossover hose from the fuel rail assembly (see Section 3). Remove the four (two per side) fuel rail assembly retaining bolts (see

illustration).

42 Carefully disengage the fuel rail from the fuel injectors and remove it. Note: If it's easier, simply detach the fuel rail from the lower intake manifold with the fuel injectors still attached (see illustration), then detach the fuel injectors from the fuel rail (see below).

Installation

43

There are two ways Install each of the

a)

to install the fuel

push b)

it

Install

onto them

until

it's

rail

44

(see

injectors

and

rail

injectors into their respective bores

rail

Remove

the fuel tank

filler

cap

to relieve

pressure

Relieve the fuel system pressure (see Section

in

the fuel tank.

2).

Detach the ground cable from the battery. Remove the fuel rail (see Step 35). Remove the three Allen screws from the underside of the pressure regulator mounting plate (see illustration). 59 Remove the pressure regulator assembly, gasket and O-ring. Discard the old gasket and O-ring.

60

Make sure that the gasket surfaces of the fuel pressure

fuel

rail

assembly are clean.

If

scraping

is

assembly to the lower intake manifold with the four

regulator and

necessary, be careful not to

the fuel pressure regulator or fuel supply line gasket surfaces.

61

Lubricate the pressure regulator O-ring with clean engine

62 63

Install

the

Install

the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel

new

oil.

O-ring and gasket on the regulator.

the three retaining screws to the torque listed

the lower intake manifold.

Secure the fuel

54 55 56 57 58

damage

assembly first, place the fuel rail position on the lower intake manifold and

assembly and injectors in carefully push and wiggle the in

assembly over the

first

firmly seated.

the injectors into the fuel

12.58

Installation

rail:

injectors into the lower intake manifold

below), then place the fuel

to illustration

Removal

rail

assembly and tighten

in this

Chapter's Specifica-

tions.

O-RING

O-RING PINTLE PROTECTION CAP (PLASTIC HAT)

12.42

Use a gentle rocking motion remove the fuel rail

to

Use a small screwdriver to peel O-rings from the ends of the injectors - be extremely careful not to

1

2.48

off the old

damage

the sealing areas or the

sensitive fuel metering orifices

.

1 2.49 In addition to replacing the two O-rings on the injectors, always inspect the washer and the plastic "hat" that protects the pintle - if either shows evidence of deterioration, replace it

11

Chapter 4

4-11

Fuel and exhaust systems

w Remove the

12.58

three Allen screws (arrows) to detach the fuel

pressure regulator from the fuel

Exhaust system servicing - general information

13

13.1

Detaching the exhaust from an exhaust hanger

rail

The supercharger is not a bolt-on option. It is part of an integrated enThe supercharger is a blow-through type system with port fuel injection. The supercharger is belt driven off the crankshaft and, damaged, is replaced as a unit (it is not serviceable). The throttle body controls the amount of intake air to the supercharger through the inlet plenum. The pressurized air from the supercharger is routed through the intercooler, which cools and condenses the air/fuel charge, and then to the gine system.

if

Refer

to illustration 13.

Warning Inspection and repair of exhaust system components should be done only after enough time has elapsed after driving the vehicle to allow the system components to cool completely. Also, when working under the vehicle, make sure it is securely supported on jackstands. 1 The exhaust system consists of the exhaust manifolds, the catalytic converters, the muffler, the tailpipe and all connecting pipes, brackets, hangers and clamps. The exhaust system is attached to the body with mounting brackets and rubber hangers (see illustration). any of the parts are improperly installed, excessive noise and vibration will be trans:

If

intake manifold (see illustration).

A vacuum controlled bypass valve is installed at the supercharger outlet.

The bypass valve controls the amount of pressurized

supercharger. At low

um. As the

throttle

throttle,

opening

is

air

back

into the

the engine runs under normal engine vacu-

increased, the bypass valve actuator closes

the bypass valve, which directs

all

the air from the supercharger to the

in-

take manifold.

mitted to the body.

2

Conduct regular inspections of the exhaust system to keep safe and Look for any damaged or bent parts, open seams, holes, loose conit

quiet.

nections, excessive corrosion or other defects which could allow exhaust

fumes

to enter the vehicle. Deteriorated

exhaust system components

1

5

should not be repaired; they should be replaced with new parts. If the exhaust system components are extremely corroded or rusted 3

equipment will probably be required to remove them. The convenient way to accomplish this is to have a muffler repair shop remove the corroded sections with a cutting torch. If, however, you want to save money by doing it yourself (and you don't have a welding outfit with a cutting torch), simply cut off the old components with a hacksaw. If you have compressed air, special pneumatic cutting chisels can also be used. If you do decide to tackle the job at home, be sure to wear safety goggles to protect your eyes from metal chips and work gloves to protect your hands. 4 Here are some simple guidelines to follow when repairing the exhaust together, welding

system:

Work from

a)

the back to the front

when removing exhaust system

components. Apply penetrating

b)

oil

to the

exhaust system component fasteners

make them easier to remove. Use new gaskets, hangers and clamps when

to c)

installing

exhaust

systems components. d)

Apply anti-seize compound to the threads of

all

exhaust system

Supercharger - diagnosis

Due to the need for special tools and expertise, diagnosis of the supercharger

is

beyond the scope

of the

home mechanic and

should be

Be sure to allow sufficient clearance between newly installed parts and all points on the underbody to avoid overheating the floor pan and possibly damaging the interior carpet and insulation. Pay particularly close attention to the catalytic converter and heat shield.

However, other systems which affect the operation of the superchargbe inspected, which may help to isolate the problem. Check the fol-

lowing:

Ducts between the air inlet adapter and the intercooler or between the supercharger an the intercooler - check for leaks Check the supercharger drivebelt- make sure the supercharger turns

and the belt doesn't slip Tap on the air bypass actuator-

it's sticky, may resume functioning when tapped Check the exhaust system for an obstruction Check all vacuum hoses for leaks Check the fuel pressure Check for leaky seals, which will be characterized by af ilm of oil around the front of the supercharger, and may also be accompanied by noise if

it

normally

16

Supercharger and and installation

related

components - removal

Air bypass actuator 14

Supercharger - general information

Refer 1

Refer

to illustration 14.

to

er can

fasteners during reassembly. e)

left

a dealer service department or other qualified repair shop.

2

to illustration 16.3

Detach the actuator vacuum hose. Remove the inlet plenum assembly (see Step

70).

4-12

Chapter 4

Fuel and exhaust systems

SENSOR ASSY

SUPERCHARGER

14.1

Exploded view of the supercharger and related components

PLENUM ASSY SUPERCHARGER INLET

INTERCOOLER OUTLET TUBE

INTAKE AIR

TEMPERATURE SENSOR

INTAKE MANIFOLD

MOUNTING FLANGE

SUPERCHARGER AND PLENUM ASSY

16.3

3

air

Remove the bolt retaining the actuator to the supercharger (see illusRemove

bypass actuator location

5

Rotate the actuator to allow the rod to pass through the keyed remove the actuator.

the bypass lever and

tration).

4

View of the

the two self-tapping screws.

INLET

6

Installation is the

reverse of removal.

slot in

SPANNER NUT

4-13

Fuel and exhaust systems

Chapter 4 SUPERCHARGER ADAPTER

APPLY ANTI-SIEZE TO TUBE THREADS

Inlet

BEFORE INSTALLING

Refer

tube to illustrations

16.7

and

16.8

hemoval STUD

inlet

Using spanner nut wrench (T89P-6634-A) or equivalent, detach the tube from the supercharger adapter (see illustration).

8

Remove four nuts retaining the inlet and the outlet tubes-to-intercool-

7

er (see illustration). Caution: Carefully disconnect the outlet tube from

the intercooler so the sealing surfaces

aged

and retaining studs are not dam-

while removing the inlet tube.

Remove the nut and push-on nut retaining the inlet tuoe-to-alternator/ pump bracket. 10 Remove the stud from the alternator/steering pump bracket. 11 Remove the inlet tube. Caution: Be very careful during removal and

9

steering

SUPERCHARGER AND AIR INTAKE PLENUM

installation of the intercooler

tubes so you don't scratch, nick or contami-

nate the sealing surfaces.

Installation 12 16.7

Air outlet adapter-to-supercharger

mounting

details

Whenever the intercooler outlet is disconnected, the outlet tube-to-in-

tercooler sealing surface must be resealed.

INLET TUBE

INTAKE

3F

ENGINE

ELBOW

^VlJ^^WV

BRACKET

OUTLET TUBE

16.8

Intercooler, inlet

and

outlet tube

mounting

details

6 8 9 7

4-14

Chapter 4

Fuel and exhaust systems

Clean and inspect the sealing surfaces of the supercharger outlet and tubes. Be sure there is no foreign material on the sealing surfaces. It is important that the intercooler tubes seal completely. Any air leak will cause poor operation and performance. Kit from (ESE-M4G168-B) tape sealant gasket 14 Install 13

Installation

adapter, intake elbow, intercooler

42

seat surfaces of the intercooler tubes (four places). Install the tape approximately 1/8-inch from the inner diameter of the tubes. Overlap the tape ends approximately 1 /4-inch. Do

(E9PE-6F091-AA), or equivalent,

to the

not stretch the tape. Note: During proper installation, a slight wrinkling

will

occur on the tape edge at the inner diameter. 15 Apply regular grade anti-seize and lubricating compound (ESEM12A4-A) or equivalent from kit (E9PE-6F091 -AA) to the inner backside seat and thread to the collar of the supercharger outlet adapter. Caution The system must be tightened in the correct sequence (explained below) :

for proper sealing of the intercooler tubes.

Position the inlet tube, then install the upper stud into the alternator/

1

power steering pump bracket. Install

1

movement

to

ensure seating on uie

inlet

it

tube to supercharger outlet

adapter.

Using hand pressure, tighten the supercharger outlet adapter collar onto the threaded end of the inlet tube. 1

Install

1

and the outlet tubes. Install enough to retain the intercooler and tubes toallow movement on the seats.

the intercooler assembly to the

the nuts to the studs tight

inlet

gether but free enough to 20 Tighten the supercharger adapter securely. 21

Wait ten minutes minimum and retighten the collar. Tighten the inlet and outlet tube-to-intercooler nuts to the torque listed this Chapters Specifications. The clamping connectors should be in-

22 in

stalled

23 ing

24

so they are

Install

pump

parallel to the studs of the intercooler.

the nut that retains the

bracket and tighten

Start the engine

Intake

it

and check

inlet

tube to the alternator/power steer-

securely. for

vacuum

leaks.

ing

Disconnectthe electrical connector at the intake air temperature senlines at the intake elbow.

Remove the two nuts securing the outlet tube of the

intercooler to the

Loosen the outlet tube of the intercooler at the alternator/power steerbracket.

Loosen the support bracket at the front of the engine. Loosen the clamp at the air bypass actuator inlet hose. 32 Remove the three elbow to manifold retaining bolts and bow from the hose to remove

30

slide the el-

it.

Installation

33 Clean and inspect the gasket surfaces. 34 Install a new gasket on the intake manifold. 35 Install the intake elbow and tighten the retaining bolts. 36 Install the air bypass hose into position (align the paint stripe on the hose with the rib on the elbow assembly). 37 While allowing the support bracket at the front of the engine to pivot, reverse the remainder of the removal procedure.

during outlet tube reinstallation.

procedure.

Remove the intercooler tube upper stud from the pump bracket. 48 Remove the belt that drives the steering pump.

47

alternator/steering

49 50

Label and disconnect the spark plug wires from the coil. Remove the stud nuts for the bracket brace of the steering pump.

51

Remove

the two bolts and

one stud nut

retaining the steering

pump

bracket to the cylinder head. 52 Install a bolt 6-1/2 inches long, with the proper thread pitch, into the in the steering pump bracket. Thread the bolt into the cylinder head about five turns. 53 Remove the steering pump filler cap. 54 Slide the steering pump bracket assembly forward on the 6-1/2 inch

top hole

long

bolt.

55

Remove

the outlet tube by pulling

it

underneath the steering

pump

bracket and up through the engine compartment. It may be necessary to pivot the outlet tube clamping connector to gain clearance during removal.

.

Clean and inspect the sealing surfaces

adapter, intake elbow, intercooler

Removal Remove the four nuts connecting the upper and the

tubes to the intercooler (see illustration 16.8). 39 Loosen the upper intercooler tube (inlet tube) nut

of the

supercharger outlet

and tubes. Be sure no foreign It

is

particles

important that the intercooler

tubes seal completely. The engine control system demands a sealed system to calculate proper fuel flow. 57 Install gasket sealant tape (ESE-M4G1 68-B) or equivalent from kit

(E9PE-6F091 -AA) to the seal surfaces of the intercooler tubes. Install the tape approximately 1 /8-inch from the inner diameter of the tubes. Overlap the tape ends approximately 1/4-inch. Caution: Do not stretch the tape

may leak.

Guide the outlet tube down through the engine compartment and underneath the steering pump bracket. Use extreme care not to scratch, nick or contaminate the sealing surfaces. Note: It may be necessary to rotate the lower outlet tube clamping connector to gain clearance while installing 58

the outlet tube.

59 60

Slide the Install

power steering pump bracket assembly

the nut that retains the steering

into position.

pump bracket and tighten

it

se-

curely.

61

Remove

6-1/2 inch bolt installed during the removal procedure.

62 Install the bolts retaining the steering pump bracket to the cylinder head and tighten securely. 63 Install the nuts that retain the bracket brace for the steering pump to the water pump and tighten it securely. 64 Install the outlet tube over the lower stud on the alternator/steering it

Intercooler

pump lower intercooler

65

bracket.

Install

the push-on nut onto the stud, tight

against the alternator/steering at the alternator/

power steering pump bracket. 40 Remove the intercooler retaining screws and washers. 41 Push down slightly on the intercooler to release it from the clips.

to pivot

nut

during installation or the seal

31

38

it

are on the sealing surfaces of the tubes.

Mark and disconnect the vacuum

pump

allow

Installation

elbow.

29

to

Remove the

and push-on nut retaining the bracket for the outlet tube-to-alternator/steering pump. Note: If you arejust reselling the tube, it does not have to be removed from the vehicle. Proceed to the outlet tube

56

the cowl vent screens.

sor (see illustration 16.103).

27 28

engine

46

surface.

elbow assembly

Remove

43 Remove the two nuts retaining the outlet tube to the intake elbow assembly (see illustration 16.8). 44 Raise and securely support the front of the vehicle on jackstands. 45 Remove the bolt retaining the outlet tube to the upper support bracket located at the front of the engine. Loosen the support bracket at the front of the engine. Note: The bracket must remain close enough to the front of the

Caution: Use extreme care during removal and installation of the intercooler tubes to prevent scratching, nicking or contaminating the sealing

Removal 25 26

re-

Outlet tube Removal

installation

enough to retain the tube bracke* surface but free enough to allow tube

the push-on nut onto the stud, tight

against alternator/steering

Use teflon tape on the tube sealing surfaces of the intercooler and verse the removal procedure.

it

enough

to retain

tube

pump bracket but free enough to allow tube

movement to ensure seating of the outlet tube to the intake elbow assembly.

66 retaining

Position the clamping connector for the outlet tube over the studs on it using two nuts. Tighten both nuts

the intake elbow assembly and secure to the

torque listed

in this

Chapter's Specifications. Note: The clamping

Chapter 4

4-15

Fuel and exhaust systems

SUPERCHARGER

SENSOR

THROTTLE BODY

GASKET

INTAKE MANIFOLD

FRONT OF ENGINE

1

6.1

03

Supercharger mounting details

connector should be installed so it is parallel to the stud mounting face of the intake elbow assembly. 67 Install the proper nut to the stud on alternator/steering pump bracket

and tighten securely. 68 Install the proper bolt to secure the outlet tube to the engine support bracket and tighten to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. 69 Tighten the nut and bolt retaining the support bracket to the front of the it

it

engine..

Removal 70

Partially drain the cooling

71

Remove

system. throttle valve.

Remove the accelerator cable bracket retaining bolts and position the

bracket out of the work area.

Disconnect the

PCV

Disconnect the air

lines

from the plenum assembly

electrical

connections

at the throttle position sensor,

bypass valve (see illustration 1 2.25b) and the

EGR trans-

Remove the two bolts retaining the EGR valve and pull the EGR valve

away from the plenum

(if

equipped).

Remove the screw mounting the EGR transducer bracket and move the transducer. 80 Remove the four bolts retaining the plenum assembly. 79

81

re-

Loosen the bypass hose clamp and remove the plenum.

Installation

82 83

Use new gaskets on Installation

is

the

plenum mating

joints.

the reverse of removal procedure.

Supercharger Refer

to illustration

it

will

1 ).

Mark and disconnect the vacuum

lines

from the

inlet

plenum assem-

bly.

92 Disconnectthe vacuum line from the EGR transducer and remove the transducer from the bracket. 93 Disconnect the tube from the PCV valve. Disconnect the accelerator cable at the

throttle

housing (see Sec-

95

Remove the

linkage bracket attaching bolts and position the bracket

96 97

Disconnect the cruise control cable (if equipped). Remove the two EGR valve attaching bolts and move the EGR valve away from intake assembly (if equipped). 98 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the throttle body. 99 Remove the supercharger drive belt. 100 Remove the intercooler inlet and outlet tubes (see procedure in this section).

Remove the three bolts mounting the intake elbow. 102 Remove the three bolts mounting the supercharger. 1 03 Lift the supercharger and the intake assembly from the vehicle as an assembly (see illustration). Note: To prevent entry of foreign material, all engine openings should be covered with clean rags after the unit is removed. 101

Installation 16.103

be necessary

04 Clean and inspect the gasket surfaces. 105 Apply RTV sealant to the intake plenum mating surfaces. 106 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. 1

Note: The supercharger can't be rebuilt or overhauled. malfunctions,

the vent screens for the cowl.

aside.

ducer.

78

Remove

Drain the cooling system (see Chapter

tion 9).

EGR transducer.

the throttle

91

94

tube.

Mark and disconnect the vacuum the

16.8).

87 88 89

tration 16.3).

the cowl vent screens, intake elbow assembly (see proce-

dure beginning with Step 25) and the intake air tube for the 72 Disconnect the accelerator cable (see Section 9). 73 Disconnect the coolant hoses at the throttle body.

75 76 and 77

Clean the area around the supercharger. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the air inlet tube from the throttle body (see illustration

Mark and disconnect the right side spark plug wires at the coil assembly and position them out of the work area. 90 Disconnect the electrical connectors at the air bypass valve, the throttle position sensor and the intake air temperature sensors (see illus-

Plenum assembly

74

Removal 84 85 86

to

supercharger replace the supercharger as a unit. If the

3 5

4-16

Chapter 4

Fuel and exhaust systems

Supercharger outlet adapter

111

Remove

the three bolts retaining the outlet adapter to the super-

charger.

Removal

112

107 Loosen the spanner nut on the supercharger

outlet

adapter (see

il-

lustration 16.7).

1 1

108 Remove the nut and upper stud on the alternator/power steering pump bracket which supports the intercooler inlet tube (see illustration

Remove

the stud mounting the wiring harness bracket and position

the bracket out of the work area.

Remove the

outlet adapter.

Installation

114 Clean and inspect the sealing surfaces

of the

supercharger sealing

16.8).

109 Remove the two nuts mounting the 1 1

Carefully

remove the

surface. inlet

tube to the intercooler. 1 1

intercooler inlet tube.

Apply sealant

to the

supercharger sealing surfaces.

116 The remainder of installation

is

the reverse of removal.

Chapter 5

Engine

electrical

systems

Contents Alternator- removal and installation

16

General information

and coil pack - removal and module - replacement system - check system - general information timing - check and adjustment

Ignition coil

- check and replacement 4 Battery check and maintenance See Chapter 1 Battery - emergency jump starting 3 Battery - removal and installation 2 Camshaft sensor and synchronizer assembly - removal and installation 9 Charging system - check 15 Charging system - general information and precautions 14 Crankshaft sensor - removal and installation 8 Distributor - removal and installation 10 Distributor stator - check and replacement 13 Drivebelt check, adjustment and replacement See Chapter 1 Battery cables

Ignition Ignition Ignition Ignition

Spark plug replacement Spark plug wire, distributor cap and rotor - check and replacement Starter motor and circuit - in vehicle check Starter motor - removal and installation Starter relay - removal and installation Starting system general information Voltage regulator/alternator brushes - replacement

1

Specifications

General Coil-to-cap wire resistance Drivebelt deflection

7k ohms per ft. max See Chapter 1

Battery voltage

Engine off Engine running (charging voltage)

installation

12 volts 14-to-15 volts

Torque Specifications

Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)

Crankshaft sensor mounting bolts Camshaft sensor/synchronizer clamp bolt

22 15

to 31 in-lbs to

22

7 12 6 5 11

See Chapter

1

See Chapter

1

19

20 21

18

17

5-2

Engine

Chapter 5

4

General information

1

The engine electrical systems include all ignition, charging and starting components. Because of their engine-related functions, these components are considered separately from chassis electrical devices such as the

lights,

instruments, etc.

if

your hands, hair or clothes become entangled in it with the engine running. Both the starter and alternator are connected directly to the battery and could arc or even cause a fire if mishandled, overloaded or if

Never leave the

ignition switch

on

for long

periods of time with the en-

Don't disconnect the battery cables while the engine

off.

- check and replacement

Periodically inspect the entire length of

1

each battery cable

for

dam-

age, cracked or burned insulation and corrosion. Poor battery cable con-

can

nections

cause

problems

starting

and

decreased

engine

Check the cable-to-terminal connections at the ends of the cables for and corrosion. The presence of white, fluffy de-

2

cracks, loose wire strands

posits under the insulation at the cable terminal connection

is a sign that corroded and should be replaced. Check the terminals for dismissing mounting bolts and corrosion.

the cable tortion,

is

When replacing the cables, always disconnect the negative cable first

3

and hook it up last or the battery may be shorted by the tool used to loosen

shorted out. gine

Battery cables

performance.

Be very careful when working on the engine electrical components. They are easily damaged checked, connected or handled improperly. The alternator is driven by an engine drivebelt which could cause serious injury

systems

electrical

Correct polarity must be maintained

is

running.

when connecting battery cables from

as another vehicle, during jump starting.

Always disor the battery may be

another source, such connect the negative cable first and hook it up last shorted by the tool being used to loosen the cable clamps. Additional safety related information on the engine electrical systems can be found in Safety first near the front of this manual. It should be referred to before beginning any operation included in this Chapter.

Even if only the positive cable is being replaced, be sure disconnect the negative cable from the battery first.

the cable clamps. to

Disconnect and remove the cable. Make sure the replacement cable same length and diameter as the cable being replaced. Clean the threads of the relay or ground connection with a wire brush

4 is

the

5 to

remove

rust

and corrosion. Apply a

light

coat of petroleum

jelly to

the

threads to help prevent future corrosion. Attach the cable to the relay or ground connection and tighten the

6

mounting

nut/bolt securely.

Before connecting the

7

new

cable to the battery,

make

sure that

it

reaches the battery post without having to be stretched. Connect the positive cable first, followed by the negative cable. 8

5

Ignition

system - general information

Non-supercharged models The

ignition

system on these models

consisting of an ignition module,

spark plugs. Mechanically, the system

except that the distributor Effect"

vane

is

a solid state electronic design

coil, distributor,

cam and

is

spark plug wires and the a breaker point system,

similar to

ignition points are

replaced by a "Hall

The coil primary circuit is controlled Effect" vane stator switch and the ECA.

stator switch assembly.

by an amplifier module, the "Hall When the ignition is switched on, the ignition primary circuit is energized. When the beginning edge of the window of the rotary vane cup (lo-

in the distributor) passes between the distributor hall effect device and the permanent magnet assembly, a signal is produced which is used by the amplifier module and the ECA to turn off the coil primary current.

cated :.-;•

.

When removing

remove the cable from the - the mounting bolt for the battery hold-down clamp is shown (arrows)

2.2

negative terminal

When the

the battery,

first

primary

circuit is on, current

flows from the battery through

the ignition switch, the coil primary winding, the amplifier to ground.

module and then

When the current is interrupted, the magnetic field in the ignition

in the coil secondary windings. The conducted to the distributor where the rotor directs to the appropriate spark plug. This process is repeated continuously.

collapses, inducing a high voltage

coil

voltage

2

is

it

Battery - removal and installation

Supercharged models Refer to

illustration

2.2 ing

Disconnect both cables from the battery terminals. Caution: Always 1 disconnect the negative cable first and hook it up last or the battery may be shorted by the tool being used to loosen the cable clamps. Locate the battery hold-down clamp between the battery and the radiator support (see illustration). Remove the bolt and the hold-down clamp. 2

3

Lift

-

lifting

Installation

and moving the battery

is

is

much

easier

if

you use one.

Coil

d)

Crankshaft sensor Ignition

Related wiring

g)

Spark plugs is

very complex and requires special tools and training to

diagnose, therefore

and

3

Battery -

emergency jump

starting

Refer to the Booster battery (jump) starting procedure manual.

of this

6

in

the front part

The follow-

module

e) f)

This system

the reverse of removal.

(DIS).

pack

c)

out the battery. Special straps that attach to the battery posts are

available

4

These models use a Distributorless Ignition System components are used in the system: Electronic Control Assembly (ECA) a) b) Camshaft sensor

installation of

Ignition

we

shall limit information

on

this

system

to

removal

components.

system - check

Warning: Becauseofthe very high voltage generated by the ignition system, extreme care should be taken when this check is performed.

1

.

Chapter 5

Engine

electrical

5-3

systems

ent, dry out the

cap and

rotor,

then

reinstall

the cap and repeat the spark

test.

there's still no spark, detach the coil secondary wire from the distribcap and hook up to the tester (reattach the plug wire to the spark plug), then repeat the spark check. Again, if you don't have a tester, hold the end of the wire about 1/4-inch from a good ground. If sparks now occur, the distributor cap, rotor or plug wire(s) may be 6

5

If

utor

it

defective.

7

If

no sparks occur, check the primary wire connections

at the coil to

make sure they're clean and tight. Check for voltage to the coil. Make any necessary repairs, then repeat the check again. If there's still no spark, the coil-to-cap wire may be bad (check the resistance with an ohmmeter and compare it to the Specifications). If a known good wire doesn't make any difference in the test results, the ignition module may be defective. 8

Supercharged models These models use a Distributorless Ignition System (DIS). This sysvery complex and requires special tools and training to diagnose, therefore we shall limit information on this system to removal and installa9 6.1

To use a calibrated

ignition tester (available at

most auto

parts stores), simply disconnect a spark plug wire, attach the wire to the tester and clip the tester to a good ground - if there is

enough power

be clearly visible and the tester body as the engine

to fire the plug, sparks will

between the electrode

tip is

tem

tion of components.

er qualified

to illustration 6.

the engine turns over but won't stores).

it

to

start,

Ford

ignition

Connect the

systems

if

disconnect the spark plug wire

a calibrated ignition tester (available at clip

on the tester

to

a

bolt or

metal

Make sure the tester is designed

bracket on the engine (see illustration). for

a universal tester

isn't

available.

If

you're un-

remove the wire from one of the spark plugs and, using an insulated tool, hold the end of the wire about 1/4-inch from a good ground. 2 Crank the engine and watch the end of the tester or spark plug wire to able to obtain a calibrated ignition tester,

see bright blue, well-defined sparks occur. If you're not using a calibrated have an assistant crank the engine for you. if

tester,

3

If

Ignition coil

Refer

Refer 1

most auto parts

Take the vehicle to a dealer service department or oth-

for diagnosis.

sparks occur, sufficient voltage

and

coil

pack - removal and

installation

Coil (non-supercharged models)

Non-supercharged models

from any spark plug and attach

shop

turned over

7

If

is

is

reaching the plug to

fire

it

(repeat

the check at the remaining plug wires to verify that the distributor cap and rotor are OK). However, the plugs themselves may be fouled, so remove and check them as described in Chapter 1 If no sparks or intermittent sparks occur, remove the distributor cap 4 and check the cap and rotor as described in Chapter 1 If moisture is pres.

to illustration 7.2

Detach the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. 2 Detach the electrical connectors from the coil, located near the cleaner assembly (see illustration). 3 Remove the bolts mounting the coil bracket-to-fender. 4 Remove the coil and the bracket. Remove the coil-to-bracket mounting bolts. 5 1

6

Installation is the reverse of removal.

Coil pack (supercharged models) Refer to illustrations 7.9 and 7. 10 Detach the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. Disconnect the electrical connector from the coil pack. Remove the spark plug wires by squeezing the locking tabs to release 9 the boot retainers (see illustration). 1 Remove the screws mounting the coil pack and remove the pack (see 7

8

illustration). 11

Installation

is

the reverse of removal.

COU.

AND BRACKET

SCREW AND WASHER ASSY

SQUEEZE LOOKING TABS TO REMOVE

7.2

The

ignition coil (arrow) is near the air

cleaner housing

Squeeze the locking tabs to release the spark plug wire boots

7.9

air

7.10

Coil

pack mounting details

3 4

2

1

1

5-4

Chapter 5

Engine

electrical

systems PARALLEL TO FRONT FACE OF BLOCK

_ FRONT OF_

CRANKSHAFT

ENGINE

UPPER SHIELD

SYNCRO POSITIONER TOOL T89P-1220O-A -30°

MAX VIEW A

SYNCRO POSITIONER DAMPER AND !

TOOL

T89P-12200-A

PULLEY ASSY

FRONT OF ENGINE SYNCHRONIZER ASSY

CLAMP CRANKSHAFT SENSOR

FRONT COVER ASSY

LOWER SHIELD CAMSHAFT SENSOR

INTERMEDIATE SHAFT NOTE:

FRONT OF ENGINE

8.4

ASSEMBLE WITH LOCK RING END INTO SYNCHRONIZER

Crankshaft sensor details

9.4

Camshaft sensor and synchronizer assembly installation details

8

Crankshaft sensor - removal and installation

Camshaft sensor and synchronizer assembly - removal and installation

9

Removal Refer Refer

to illustration 9.4

to illustration 8.4

Detach the cable from the negative side of the battery. Detach the sensor electrical connector. 2 Raise the vehicle and support securely using jack stands. 3 4 Remove the vibration damper shields (see illustration). Rotate the crankshaft by hand to position the metal vane of the shutter 5 (attached to the rear of the damper) outside of the sensor air gap. Remove the sensor mounting screws and the sensor. 6 1

it

Installation on the bracket.

7

Position the sensor

8

Install

the two sensor retaining screws but do not tighten them.

9

Install

the Crankshaft Sensor

Gauge (T89-631 6-AH)

to the outside

surface of one vane of the shutter. This will set the gap between the shutter

and the sensor. Note: The gauge is magnetic and will conform to the vane of the shutter. If this tool is not available, slip the cover of a matchbook between the sensor and the shutter to set the gap. 1 Rotate the crankshaft by hand to position the gauge into the sensor air gap.

Removal Prior to starting this procedure, set cylinder no.

1

ter

2

nector to the engine. tor

3

Push the sensor housing inward

12

Tighten the screws that retain the sensor to the torque listed

to contact the

Chapter's Specifications. Caution: This

is

a

gauge.

critical torque.

1

Rotate the crankshaft by hand and remove the gauge.

1

Install

the

damper

15

Lower the

vehicle.

shields.

The

installation

electrical con-

procedure requires that the connec-

be located in the same position. Detach the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. Detach the electrical connector from the sensor (see illustration). Remove the two camshaft sensor mounting screws and the sensor

4 5 assembly. 6 Reference mark the synchronizer vane to the synchronizer housing. 7 Remove the synchronizer hold-down clamp. Remove the synchronizer from the front of the engine cover assem8 bly.

Installation 9

After Top Dead Center (ATDC) of you haven't done this already. Align the reference marks made during removal and reverse removal

Set cylinder no.

One to 26-degrees

the compression stroke, 1

1

One to 26-degrees Af-

Top Dead Center (ATDC) of the compression stroke. Reference mark the position of the camshaft sensor

if

procedure. in this

1

tool

If reference marks are not available, the use of a synchro positioner (T89P-1 2200-A or equivalent) must be obtained prior to installation of

the synchronizer. 1

Attach the synchro positioner as follows: a)

Position the synchronizer

vane

into the radial slot of the tool.

4 3 5 7

1

Chapter 5

10.2

Look

for the raised "1"

of the distributor

on the top cap next to the

number

electrical

Mark the position

10.6

of the rotor

10.7 After marking the position of the

by

mark base

distributor in relation to the intake manifold (arrow), remove the hold-down

on the edge of the distributor directly under the tip of the rotor (arrow) to ensure proper reinstallation

1

5-5

systems

painting or scribing an alignment

spark plug wire - this is where the rotor should be pointing before you remove terminal for the

Engine

and clamp

bolt

the distributor

Rotate the tool on the synchronizer base

b)

gages the base notch

(the tool should

until

the tool boss en-

be square and

in

entire tip of the synchronizer base). 1

One cylinder at 26-degrees ATDC, install the synchronizer assembly so that the gear engagement occurs when the arrow on the 1

With the no.

locater tool

is

pointing approximately 30-degrees counterclockwise from

the front face of the engine block. 1

Install

this

Chapter's Specifications.

16

Remove the

cal connector

is

it

to the torque listed in

If

the rotor

is

pointing toward the

number

it (if the rotor has more than one tip, use the center (see illustration). Also, mark the distributor base and the engine block to ensure that the distributor is installed correctly. 7 Remove the distributor hold down-bolt and clamp (see illustration),

one

and

in line

with

for reference)

pull

the distributor straight up to

intermediate driveshaft. Caution: tributor is

positioner tool. Caution:

until

plug wire terminal.

Make a mark on the edge of the distributor base directly below the ro-

tor tip

then

the synchronizer clamp bolt and tighten

Rotate the crankshaft 1

6

the intermediate shaft so the ring faces the synchronizer.

Install

c)

contact with

remove

it.

Be careful not to disturb the

Do not turn the crankshaft while the dis-

removed, or the alignment marks

will

be useless.

the camshaft sensor electri-

not positioned properly (contacting the air conditioning

bracket or forward of the supercharger drive

connector by rotating the synchronizer base. and repeat the installation procedure.

belt),

do not reposition the

Remove

the synchronizer

Installation 8

Insert the distributor into the

the block that

it

was

in

engine

in

exactly the

same relationshipto

when removed.

1

To mesh the helical gears on the camshaft and the distributor, may be necessary to turn the rotor slightly. If the distributor doesn't seat completely, the hex shaped recess in the lower end of the distributor shaft is not mating properly with the oil pump shaft. Recheck the alignment marks between the distributor base and the block to verify that the distributor is in the same position it was in before removal. Also check the rotor to see if it's aligned with the mark you made on the edge of the distributor base. Then, using a socket and ratchet on the crankshaft pulley bolt, turn the crankshaft in the normal direction of rotation (clockwise, viewed from the front). Because the gear on the distributor shaft is engaged with the gear on the camshaft, their relationship to one another will not change as long as the

2

distributor is not lifted

1

1

Connect the negative battery cable.

Distributor

Refer

- removal and

to illustrations 10.2, 10.6

installation

and

10.7

Removal Unplug the primary electrical connector from the distributor. Note the raised "1" on the distributor cap (see illustration), which marks the terminal for the plug wire leading to the number 1 cylinder. 3 Remove the distributor cap (see Chapter 1). 4 If you have a remote starter: a) Remove the spark plug from the number 1 cylinder (see Chapter 1).

b)

Hook up the remote starter to the starter relay and the battery posiaccordance with the manufacturer's instructions. Turn the engine over carefully by turning and releasing the ignition key, or by quickly pushing and releasing the remote control starter switch button until the rotor is pointing toward the terminal for the tive terminal in

c)

number d) e) If

a) b)

1

cylinder.

Detach the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. Proceed to Step 6. you don't have a remote starter: Detach the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. Locate the large bolt in the front of the crankshaft. Attach a ratchet and socket to the bolt.

9

oil

it

from the engine. Therefore, the rotor will turn but the

because the two shafts are not yet engaged. When shaped recess in the end of the distributor shaft and the oil pump are aligned, the distributor will drop down over the pump shaft and

pump shaft will

not,

the hex shaft

the distributor housing

will

seat against the block.

Note: If the crankshaft has been moved while the distributor is out, locate Top Dead Center (TDC) for the number one piston by removing the spark plug from the number 1 cylinder and, using a remote starter (or a socket and ratchet on the crankshaft pulley), rotate the crankshaft until the TDC mark on the crankshaft pulley (see Chapter 2) is aligned with the stationary pointer on the timing chain/belt cover. To verify that the

number

1

piston

is

TDC (and not beginning the intake stroke),

place your thumb or finger tightly against the spark plug hole and try to prevent any air from escaping.

at

If it is 1

on TDC, the

air pressure will force its

way past your finger.

With the base of the distributor seated against the block, turn the dis-

tributor to align the

marks made on the

distributor

base and the

block.

With the distributor marks aligned, the rotor should be pointing at the mark on the distributor housing. 1

5 6 7 3 2

1

5-6

Engine

Chapter 5

FRONT

electrical

TOC ATOC

BTDC

t

t

o

t

3

T

TIMING

ROTATION

Before checking the ignition

11 .3

timing, unplug the

you

MARK

Ignition timing

12.1a On non-supercharged models, the module is located on the right front

marks

SPOUT connector (if

EEC-IV system

don't, the

11.5

systems

will still

of the radiator support (viewed

be

from below)

controlling the base ignition timing)

1

Place the hold-down clamp

1

Install

14

Plug

in

and loosely

position

module

the

in

Supercharged models

the bolt.

Reattach the spark plug wires to the plugs.

1

Connect the cable

1

Check the

not adjustable on these models.

Section

1 1

)

and tighten the distribu-

1

2

Ignition

module - replacement

bolt securely.

Refer 1

Ignition timing

11

is

to the negative terminal of the battery.

ignition timing (refer to

hold-down

Note: Ignition timing

electrical connector.

1

tor

install

the distributor cap and tighten the cap screws securely.

- check and adjustment

to illustrations 12. 1a

Remove

and

12.

1b

the screws or bolts retaining the heatsink assembly to the

radiator support bracket

on non-supercharged models (see illustration), on supercharged models (see illustration).

or the belt pulley bracket

Non-supercharged models Refer 1

in

to illustrations 11.3

and

11.5

Apply the parking brake and block the wheels. Place the transmission Park (automatic) or Neutral (manual). Turn off all accessories (heater,

DIS IGNITION

CONTROL MODULE

air conditioner, etc.).

Start the engine

2

perature, turn

it

and warm

it

up.

Once

it

has reached operating tem-

Unplug the in-line SPOUT connector located

3

CYLINDER HEAD ASSY

off.

in

the right rear corner of

the engine compartment (see illustration).

Connect an inductive timing

4

light

and a tachometer

with the manufacturer's instructions. Caution:

Make sure

in

accordance

that the timing

and tachometer wires don hang anywhere near the electric cooling may become entangled in the fan blades when it comes on. Locate the timing mark on the crankshaft vibration damper (see illus5 tration). Note: You may have to clean the degree scale on the timing chain cover with a wire brush and solvent. light

't

fan or they

engine again.

6

Start the

7

Point the timing light at the timing

note whether

VECI 8

it

is

mark on the vibration damper and numbered degree mark (see the

aligned with the proper

on the timing chain cover.

label)

the proper marks are not aligned, loosen the distributor hold-down Turn the distributor until the correct timing marks are aligned. Tighten

If

bolt.

the distributor hold-down bolt securely

when

the timing

check it to make sure it didn't change position when the 9 1

Turn Plug

off in

is

bolt

correct

and

re-

was tightened. BRACKET ASSY

the engine.

the spout connector.

1 Restart the engine and check the idle speed. Because the engine is equipped with automatic idle speed control, idle rpm is not adjustable. If

rpm is not within the specified range (see the VECI label), take the vehicle to a dealer service department or repair shop. Adjustment requires the idle

specialized test equipment and procedures that are

the

home mechanic.

12

Turn

1

Remove

off

the engine. the timing

light

and tachometer.

beyond the scope

of

12.1b

On supercharged models,

the module is located on the belt pulley bracket

1 3

Chapter 5

Engine

electrical

5-7

systems

TERMINAL NO

Terminal identification

13.3

of the stator connector

STATOR

CONNECTOR

2

On non-supercharged

module

models, remove the two screws retaining the

1

3

Distributor stator

- check and replacement

to the heatsink.

3

On

4

Before

models, disconnect the electrical connector from the module.

all

installation,

use

silicone

dielectric

compound WA-10,

D7AZ- 1 9A331 -A or equivalent to uniformly coat the metal baseplate of the

Check Refer

module. 5 Installation

is

the reverse of the removal procedure.

SCREWS 2 REQ'D

^r?

to illustration 13.3

electrical connector from the distributor. Inspect the terminals for dirt, corrosion and damage. 2 3 Measure the resistance between stator connector terminals 1 and 5 (see illustration). 4 If the resistance measures five ohms or more, replace the stator. If the resistance measures less than five ohms, check the resistance 5 between terminal no. 2 and the distributor base. 6 Measure the resistance between terminal no. 6 and the distributor 1

Disconnect the

base.

7

If

the resistance

retaining

screws

was more than one ohm

in

Steps 5 or

to the stator in the distributor bowl.

If

6,

inspect the

they are okay,

re-

place the stator.

8

/

SHAFT ASSY

Further testing requires the use of special tools and therefore

yond the scope

of the

is

be-

home mechanic.

Replacement Refer 9 1

to illustrations 13.11, 13.13, 13.14, 13.15,

Remove Remove

the distributor (see Section

1

13.20

and 13.22

0).

the rotor.

While holding the distributor gear, remove the two screws holding the rotary vane assembly and remove the vane (see illustration). 12 To ease reassembly, reference mark the distributor shaft to the driven 1

gear.

HALL EFFECT

1 Using a drift and a hammer, remove and discard the (see illustration).

roll

pin in the gear

VANE STATOR SWITCH ASSY

13.11

Exploded view of the distributor

13.13 With the distributor mounted securely in a vise lined with several shop rags to prevent damage to the housing, drive out the roll pin with the proper size drift

4 5 6 8 9 7

.

5-8

Chapter 5

Engine

electrical

systems

13.15 Inspect the distributor shaft for burrs and residue build-up like this in the vicinity of the hole for the drive gear roll pin - remove it with emery cloth to prevent damage to the distributor shaft

13.14 With the distributor shaft pointing up like this, use a small puller to separate the drive gear from the shaft

bushing when removing and

1

3.20

the O-ring at the base of the worn or damaged, replace it with a new one

If

distributor is

installing

the shaft

puller to remove the gear (see illustration). Deburr and polish the shaft with emery cloth so the shaft will slide out from the distributor base (see illustration). 1 Remove the shaft assembly. 1 Remove the two stator assembly screws. 1 Remove the stator assembly from the top of the distributor bowl. Inspect the bowl bushing for wear and signs of excessive heat con1 centration (bluing). Replace the complete distributor assembly if damaged.

Use a

1

r

1

20

Inspect the base O-ring for cuts or

damage and

replace the O-ring

if

necessary (see illustration). Inspect the distributor base for cracks and wear. Replace the

21

assembly damaged. Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly (see

plete distributor

22

com-

if

illustration).

After securing the distributor assembly upside down in a vise, "eyeball" the roll pin holes in the drive gear and the shaft, then tap the drive gear onto the shaft with a deep socket and hammer

13.22

Charging system - general information and precautions

14

The charging system includes the lator,

a charge indicator or warning

alternator,

light,

an

internal voltage regu-

the battery, a fusible link and the

between all the components. The charging system supplies electripower for the ignition system, the lights, the radio, etc. The alternator

wiring cal is

driven by a drivebelt at the front of the engine.

to

a preset value. This prevents power surges,

The purpose ing

of the voltage regulator

is

hide, disconnect the wires from the alternator

to limit the alternator's voltage circuit

and the battery

ter-

minals.

overloads,

etc.,

c)

dur-

d)

peak voltage output.

Never start the engine with a battery charger connected. Always disconnect both battery cables before using a battery charger.

The fusible link is a short length of insulated wire integral with the engine compartment wiring harness. The link is four wire gauges smaller in diameter than the circuit it protects. Production fusible

links

and their iden-

are identified by the flag color. Refer to Chapter 12 for detailed information regarding the identification colors of both production tification flags

and service

fusible links.

The charging system doesn't ordinarily However, the

1

require periodic maintenance.

and wires and connections should be inChapter 1 Be very careful when making electrical circuit connections to a vehicle equipped with an alternator and note the following: a) When reconnecting wires to the alternator from the battery, be sure spected

b)

1

drivebelt, battery

at the intervals outlined in

5

Charging system - check

If

a malfunction occurs

in

the charging

sume that the alternator is causing the

circuit,

problem.

do not immediately ascheck the following

First

items: a)

The

battery cables

where they connect

the connections are clean and b)

to note the polarity.

c)

Before using arc welding equipment to repair any part of the ve-

d)

to the battery.

Make

The

battery electrolyte specific gravity (where applicable).

low,

charge the

Check Check

sure

tight.

battery.

the external alternator wiring

and connections.

the drivebelt condition and tension (see Chapter

1 ).

If

it

is

Chapter 5

Engine

electrical

5-9

systems

RECTIFIER ASSY

BRUSH

BRUSH HOLDER

SPRINGS

REAR HOUSING

Disconnect the electrical connectors from the alternator

16.2

FRONT HOUSING

16.3

e) f)

1

Remove

the bolts retaining the alternator to the bracket

Check the alternator mounting bolts for tightness, Run the engine and check the alternator for abnormal

16

fails to in

If

replacing the regulator

restore the voltage to the specified range, the problem

may be with-

the alternator.

Due to the special equipment necessary to test or service the alternarecommended that a fault is suspected the vehicle be taken to a dealer or a shop with the proper equipment. Because of this the home me5

tor, is

if

maintenance to checking connections and the inspection and replacement of the brushes. 6 The ammeter (ALT) gauge or alternator warning light on the instrument panel indicates charge or discharge - current passing into or out of the battery. With the electrical equipment switched on and the engine idling, the gauge needle may show a discharge condition. At fast idle or at normal driving speeds the needle should stay on the charge side of the gauge, with the charged state of the battery determining just how far over. 7 If the gauge does not show a change or the alternator light (if equipped) remains on, there is a problem in the system. Before inspecting the brushes or replacing the alternator, the battery condition, belt tension and electrical cable connections should be checked. chanic should

Exploded view of the external fan type alternator

Alternator - removal and installation

noise.

Using a voltmeter, check the battery voltage with the engine off. It 2 should be approximately 12 volts. 3 Start the engine and check the battery voltage again. It should now be approximately 14 to 15 volts. If the indicated voltage reading is less or more than the specified 4 charging voltage, replace the voltage regulator.

7.3a

Refer 1

2

to illustrations 16.2

and

16.3

Detach the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. Detach the electrical connectors from the alternator (see

illustra-

tion).

3

Loosen the

alternator adjustment

and

pivot bolts

and detach the

dri-

vebelt (see illustration).

4 Remove the adjustment and pivot bolts and detach the alternator from the engine. 5 Installation is the reverse of removal. Afterthe alternator is installed, adjust thedrivebelttension (see Chap6 ter 1).

limit

17

Voltage regulator/alternator brushes - replacement

External fan type alternator Refer 1

2 3

to illustrations 17.3a, 17.3b, 17.5

Remove

and

17.9

the alternator (refer to Section 16).

Set the alternator on a clean workbench. Remove the four voltage regulator mounting screws (see illustra-

tions).

1 2 3 4 5

5-10

Chapter 5

Engine

systems

electrical

To remove the brushes from the voltage regulator/brush holder assembly, remove the two brush lead wire screws (arrows)

To detach the voltage 1 7.3b regulator/brush holder assembly, remove the four screws (arrows)

17.9 Before installing the voltage regulator/brush holder assembly, insert a paper clip, as shown, to hold the

17.5

brushes

in

place during installation simply pull the paper clip out

after installation

ROTOR

REAR BEARING

NUT

REAR HOUSING

BRUSH SPRINGS

2REOD

1

7.1

4

Exploded view of the

Detach the voltage regulator. Detach the plastic cover over one of the two brush retaining screws. Remove the brush lead retaining screws and nuts to separate the brush leads from the holder (see illustration). Note that the screws have Torx heads and require a special screwdriver. After noting the relationship of the brushes to the brush holder assem6

4 5

bly,

remove both brushes. Don't

7

If

sert

them

into the

new voltage regulator, insert the old brushes into new regulator. you're installing new brushes, inbrush holder of the old regulator. Make sure the springs

recesses

in

Install

9

screw with a piece of electrical tape. a thin wire, such as a straightened-out paper clip (see illustrahold the brushes in the retracted position during regulator installa-

Insert

tion) to tion.

the brush holder.

the brush lead retaining screws and nuts. Cover the head of the

"A" terminal

holder.

the voltage regulator screws and tighten them securely.

1

Install

1

Remove

1

Install

the paper

clip.

the alternator (refer to Section

1

6).

Internal fan type alternator

If

are properly compressed and the brushes are properly inserted into the

8

1 Carefully install the regulator. Make sure the brushes don't hang up on the rotor and the bush leads are looped toward the brush end of the brush

lose the springs.

you're installing a

the brush holder of the

internal fan type alternator

Refer

to illustrations 17.14, 17.15, 17.16, 17.17, 17.18,

17.19

and 17.20

1 With the alternator removed, remove the four through bolts retaining the alternator case together (see illustration). 1 Place a 200 watt soldering iron on the bearing portion of the rear case for three or four minutes (see illustration). 1 6 With the rear case still warm, carefully insert a f lat-bladed screwdriver between the stator core and the mounting flange (see illustration). Re-

move

the rear cover.

8 9

Chapter 5

Engine

electrical

5-11

systems

SOLDERING IRON

When

17.15

rear case,

installing or removing the you must heat the rear

17.16

After heating the rear bearing area pry the cases apart

17.17

When

unsoldering or soldering

components, do not leave the heat on any one area longer than about five seconds

bearing area

17.20

When

installing the rear cover,

brushes in the retracted position with a paper clip - after installation simply pull the paper clip out retain the

17.18 Unsoldering the regulator/brush holder assembly from the rectifier

Use a soldering

17.19

The brush

pigtails should be cleaned of solder

remove the solder from the

rectifier and stator components touch the soldering iron no more than about five seconds on any one spot. 1 Use a soldering iron to unsolder the regulator/brush holder assembly 1

7

iron to

lead (see illustration). Caution: To avoid damage to

from the

rectifier

1

Remove

20

To

(see illustration).

of the starter motor unless the depressed. Never operate the starter motor for more than 15 seconds at a time without pausing to allow it to cool for at least two minutes. Excessive cranking can cause overheating, which can seriously damage the starter.

install,

When you're ready

reverse the removal procedure. Note:

push the brushes into the holder and install a paper clip into the back of the case to retain them in this position (see illustration). Be sure to use the soldering iron to heat the rear case bearing area before installing the rearcase(see illustration the rear case has

been

1

7.1 5)

.

Remove the paper

installed.

19

Starting

Starter

If

- in-vehicle check

the starter motor doesn't turn at

make sure the shift lever is in the clutch pedal

2

make sure

the battery

is fully

The function of the starting system is to crank the engine to start The is composed of the starter motor, starter relay, battery, switch and it.

when

the switch

is

operated,

depressed (manual transmission).

starter relay terminals are secure.

3

connecting wires. Turning the ignition key to the Start position actuates the starter relay through the starter control circuit. The starter relay then connects the bat-

drive

The battery supplies the electrical energy to the starter does the actual work of cranking the engine. Vehicles equipped with an automatic transmission have a Neutral start switch in the starter control circuit, which prevents operation of the starter unless the shift lever is in Neutral or Park. The circuit on vehicles with a

is

all

Neutral or Park (automatic transmission) or

Make sure the battery is charged and that all cables at the battery and

system

motor, which

circuit

General check

system - general information

tery to the starter.

motor and

Note: Before diagnosing starter problems, charged.

1

18

is

the solder from the brush pigtails (see illustration).

to install the rear cover,

clip after

manual transmission prevents operation

clutch pedal

If

the starter motor spins but the engine doesn't turn over, then the

in the starter motor is slipping and the starter motor must be replaced (see Section 20). 4 If, when the switch is actuated, the starter motor doesn't operate at all but the starter relay operates (clicks), then the problem lies with either the battery, the starter relay contacts, the starter motor connections or the mo-

assembly

tor itself.

5

If

the starter relay doesn't click

eitherthe starter relay circuit

is

when

open or the

the ignition switch relay

itself is

is

actuated,

defective.

Check

3 4 1 2

5-12

Chapter 5

Engine

electrical

the starter relay circuit (see the wiring diagrams at the end of this book) or

b)

c)

the relay wire.

nal

start

switch or

The problem

is in

If

and the

positive lead

connected to the starter connected to the positive

0.3-volt with the voltmeter negative lead

connected to the negative

terminal of the battery and the positive lead connected to the en-

gine ground (Connection

4).

the ignition switch, Neutral

the starting circuit wiring (look for open or loose connec-

in

tions).

7

connected to the starter connected to the positive

terminal of the battery (Connection 3). d)

Connect a jumper wire between the battery positive termiand the exposed terminal on the relay. If the starter motor now operokay.

positive lead

0.3-volt with the voltmeter negative lead

relay (starter side)

relay.

is

and the

terminal of the battery (Connection 2).

To check the starter relay circuit, remove the push-on connector from Make sure that the connection is clean and secure and the relay bracket is grounded. If the connections are good, check the operation of the relay with a jumper wire. To do this, place the transmission in Park (automatic) or Neutral (manual). Remove the push-on connector 6

ates, the starter relay

0.1 -volt with the voltmeter negative lead

relay (battery side)

replace the relay (see Section 21).

from the

systems

20 the starter motor

still

Starter

motor - removal and

installation

doesn't operate, replace the starter relay (see

Section 21).

8 first

If

the starter motor cranks the engine at an abnormally slow speed,

make sure the battery is fully charged and all terminal connections are

tight. Also check the connections at the starter relay and battery ground. Eyelet terminals should not be easily rotated by hand. Also check for a short to ground. If the engine is partially seized, or has the wrong vis-

clean and

cosity

oil in

it,

it

crank slowly.

will

Refer

to illustration

20.4

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Raise the vehicle. Disconnect the battery cable from the starter motor. Remove the bolts mounting the starter (see illustration). Installation is the reverse of removal.

1

2 3

4 5

Starter cranking circuit test Refer to

illustration 19.

12

21

Note: To determine the location of excessive resistance cuit, perform the following simple series of tests. 9

Disconnect the

ignition coil wire

on the engine. 1 Connect a remote control the starter relay to the 1

S

Connect a voltmeter

in

from the distributor cap and ground

Refer

from the battery terminal of

terminal of the relay.

motor terminal

positive lead to the starter

and

installation

to illustration

21.2

it

1

starter switch

Starter relay - removal

the starter cir-

of the

2 3 4

Detach the cable from the negative terminal

of the battery.

Label and disconnect the wires from the relay (see illustration).

Remove

the mounting bolts and detach the relay.

Installation

is

the reverse of removal.

connect the negative lead to ground. 1 Make the test connections as shown (see illustration). Refer to this illustration as you perform the following four tests. 1 Operate the ignition switch and take the voltmeter readings as soon as a steady figure is indicated. Don't allow the starter motor to turn for more than 15 seconds at a time. 1 The voltage drop in the circuit will be indicated by the voltmeter (put the voltmeter on the to 2-volt range). The maximum allowable voltage drop should be: a) 0.5-volt with the voltmeter negative lead connected to the starter battery terminal and the positive lead connected to the battery positive terminal (Connection 1 in illustration 19.12). starter relay, then

®/S&F^^=^

v®

N^

Ar* //

*

*

©, "*USv

JL

JL

\V ^^/

\

}^ /

ENGINE

GROUND

/j£^

v/%

20.4

Mounting bolt locations

for the starter

motor (arrows)

VOLTMETER POSITIVE

r

BATTERY

LEAD

It # RELAY%

// II II

f

V

jL^r**e-^

^^JSJP^

\** VOLTMETER

TO

W ^^/vWLJvtA* X/~^ VC* *» ^"""y^

ignition

switch

\-

^y

T\ JJ

The four

*ll ^Sy

•••4FV

&>

19.12

NEGATIVE LEAD

II

STARTER

test lead connections for the starter cranking circuit test

21 .2

To avoid confusion, label the wires before disconnecting them from the starter relay

Chapter 6

Emissions control systems

Contents Catalytic converter

6

Electronic Engine Control (EEC-IV) system

2

Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system Fuel evaporative emission control system

3

1

.See Chapter

1

5

4

General information

1

General information PCV valve check and replacement Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system

actly

match the system

installed

on your vehicle because

of

changes

made by the manufacturer during production or from year to year. A Vehicle Emissions Control Information label is located in the engine Refer

to illustration 1.7

atmosphere from incompletely burned and evaporating gases, and to maintain good driveability and fuel economy, a number of emission control systems are incorporated. They include the: Electronic Engine Control (EEC-IV) system Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system Fuel evaporative emissions control system Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system To prevent

pollution of the

compartment (see illustration). This label contains important emissions specifications and adjustment information, as well as a vacuum hose schematic with emissions components identified. When servicing the engine or emissions systems, the VECI label

always be checked

in

your particular vehicle should

for up-to-date information.

Catalytic converter All of

these systems are linked, directly or indirectly, to the EEC-IV sys-

tem.

The Sections in this Chapter include general descriptions, checking procedures within the scope of the home mechanic and component replacement procedures (when possible) for each of the systems listed above. Before assuming that an emissions control system is malfunctioning, check the fuel and ignition systems carefully. The diagnosis of some emission control devices requires specialized tools, equipment and training. If checking and servicing become too difficult or if a procedure is beyond your ability, consult a dealer service department. This doesn't mean, however, that emission control systems are in general particularly difficult to maintain and repair. You can quickly and easily perform many checks and do most (if not all) of the regular maintenance at home with common tune-up and hand tools. Note: The most frequent cause of emissions problems is simply a loose or broken vacuum hose or wire, so always check the hose and wiring connections first. Pay close attention to any special precautions outlined in this Chapter. It should be noted that the illustrations of the various systems may not ex-

—

:

•ot

coyPAw

..-.J.-

.

J,

I

JJ^JI™^"'**

d.» K

-

» »! » mm m m*m

"

.tWHXmUB*™** WTcATALYiTlKtf *l_ u *

Mb

**

1.7

ft

The Vehicle Emissions Control Information (VECI) located on the radiator support

label is

7

6-2

Chapter 6

Emissions control systems PRESSURE FEEDBACK ELECTRONIC (PFE) EGR TRANSDUCER

EGR VACUUM

REGULATOR SOLENOID HYDRAULIC PUMP

MOTOR RELAY

WOT A/C CUTOUT RELAY

A/C CLUTCH CYCLING PRESSURE SWITCH

IGNITION COIL

CANISTER PURGE SOLENOID

FRONT

2.1a

EEC-IV system components - non-supercharged engine

3 2

Electronic Engine Control (EEC-IV) system

This sensor

companying

is

threaded

illustration

into

and

ture temperature information. fuel flow

General description Refer 1

to illustrations 2. 1a

The

and 2. 1b

board computer, known as the Electronic Control Assembly (ECA), and the information sensors, which monitor various functions of the engine

ECA (see illustrations). Based on the data and the programmed into the computer's memory, the ECA generates

and send data to the

output signals to control various engine functions.

The ECA, located inside the dashboard (behind the glove box), is the "brain" of the EEC-IV system. receives data from a number of sensors and other electronic components (switches, relays, etc.). Based on the in2

It

formation

it

receives, the

ECA generates output signals to control various

and other actuators (see below). The ECA is specifically calibrated to optimize the emissions, fuel economy and driveability of your vehicle. Note: Because of a Federally-mandated extended warranty which covers the ECA, the information sensors and all components under its control, arid because any damage to the ECA, the sensors and/or the control devices may void the warranty, it isn a good idea to attempt diagnosis or replacement of the ECA at home. Take your vehicle to a dealer service department if the ECA or a system component malfunctions while the vehicle is still covered by this warranty. relays, solenoids

't

When

ingly to

to illustration

2.3

on signal

battery voltage

is

compensate.

Barometric Absolute Pressure (BAP) sensor (supercharged models) This sensor is mounted on the firewall (see illustration 2.1 b). During key on engine off or wide open throttle, this sensor measures the barometric (outside air) pressure. Signals sent to the ECA from this sensor are

5

used

to adjust

EGR

flow, ignition timing or fuel flow.

Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor 6

is located near the water outlet connection (see illustramonitors engine coolant temperature. The ECT sends the

This sensor

tion 2.1a).

It

ECA a constantly varying voltage signal which influences ECA control of EGR operation.

the fuel mixture, ignition timing and

Knock sensor (supercharged models) 7

Refer

mix-

this information to correct

clutch, a signal is sent to the

Refer

Charge Temperature (ACT) sensor

The ECA uses

(see ac-

ECA with fuel/air

applied to the air conditioner compressor ECA, which interprets the signal as an addec load created by the compressor and increases engine idle speed accord-

4

to illustration 2.

Inputs Air

of the intake manifold

control fuel flow during cold enrichment (cold starts).

Air Conditioner (A/C)

Electronic Engine Control (EEC-IV) system consists of an on-

information

and

a runner

2.1 b), provides the

This sensor

tion).

It

is

signals the

located on the right side of the engine (see illustraECA when the engine "knocks," causing the ECA to

retard the ignition timing.

Chapter 6

6-3

Emissions control systems

,

EGR VACUUM REGULATOR SOLENOID BAROMETRIC ABSOLUTE /PRESSURE (BAP) SENSOR

WOT A/C CUTOUT RELAY

A/C CLUTCH CYCLING PRESSURE SWITCH

MASS AR FLOW SENSOR DISTRIBUTORLESS IGNITION

SYSTEM MODULE

INTEGRATED RELAY

CONTROL MODULE CANISTER PURGE SOLENOID

CAM SHAFT SENSOR TACHOMETER TEST CONNECTOR

2.1

2.3

On non-supercharged models,

to

replace the Air Charge Temperature sensor (arrow) you must first remove the upper intake manifold

b

EEC-IV system components - supercharged engine

2.7

The knock sensor

Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP)

(non-supercharged models) Refer

to illustration

2.8

This sensor is mounted on the sensor has two functions:

8

firewall

(arrow), is

2.8

The

located on the right side of the engine block

(see illustration). The

MAP

a)

Measures the vacuum

b)

During key on engine

MAP

sensor is secured to the two screws

firewall with

of the intake manifold. off or

wide open

throttle, this

sensor mea-

sures the barometric (outside air) pressure. Signals sent to the ECA from this sensor are used to adjust the flow, the ignition timing or the fuel flow.

EGR

4 5 3

6-4

Chapter 6 MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR

Emissions control systems

CONNECTOR

COLD WIRE SENSOR

LOCATIONS

AIR

FLOW

r™"^^

ASWSW

SCREEN

Details of the

2.9

mass

airflow sensor (supercharged models)

Two oxygen sensors

2.1

are used on these engines

EGR TRANSDUCER

PLENUM EGO VALVE

ASSY

CANISTER

—

•»''

VACUUM SOURCE

/cAm\~—~^~^

I,

> GASKET

The canister purge valve should not allow

2.14

pass when 2.11

EGR

it

is

air to

not energized

valve and transducer mounting details

ECA. This signal enables the ECA to determine when the throttle is closed, in its normal cruise condition or wide open. For more information, see Chapter 4. transmits an electrical signal to the

Mass Refer 9

airflow sensor (supercharged models) to illustration

This sensor

Wide Open

2.9

1

located between the air cleaner and the air cleaner out-

is

tube (see illustration 2.1 b), it measures the air flowing into the engine. This sensor uses a hot and cold wire for measurement (see illustration). let

This sensor helps determine

how

long to hold the injectors open.

1

to illustration 2.

gases.

the

into each exhaust manifold (see ilThey constantly monitor the oxygen content of the exhaust

A voltage signal which varies in accordance with the difference be-

content signal to fuel/air

ratio,

then alters

it

to the ideal ratio for current

en-

gine operating conditions.

Pressure Feedback Electronic (PFE)

WOT condition is detected.

During

conditioning compressor clutch

until

is

de-energized by the

WOT,

the

sometime

ECA

cuts

ECA

power

to

after partial throttle

operation resumes (see Air Conditioning Cutout Relay under Outputs

EGR

transducer

Refer

in

to illustration 2.11

to illustration 2.

14

and behind the right headlight (see illustration), this solenoid switches manifold vacuum to operate the canister purge valve when a signal is received from the ECA. Vacuum opens the purge valve when the solenoid is energized. Forfurther information see Section 4. 1

Located

EGR 1

11

(WOT) signal

Canister purge solenoid (CANP)

tween the oxygen content of the exhaust gases and the surrounding atmosphere is sent to the ECA. The ECA translates this exhaust gas oxygen

Refer

air

Throttle

conditioning compressor circuit

Outputs 10

One of these sensors is threaded

lustration).

when a

air

this section).

Oxygen sensor Refe:

The

in

front of the radiator support

control solenoid

This solenoid, located on the right side of the engine firewall (see

il-

and 2.1 b), switches manifold vacuum to operate the EGR valve on command from the ECA. Vacuum opens the EGR valve when the lustration 2.1a

This sensor converts a varying exhaust pressure signal into a proporanalog voltage which is digitized by the ECA (see accompanying

tional

and 2.1a). The ECA uses the signal from the PFE transducer compute the optimum EGR flow. See Section 3 for more information.

solenoid

is

energized.

illustration to

Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) 1 2 This sensor is mounted on the side directly to the throttle shaft.

It

of the throttle body and connected senses throttle movement and position, then

Fuel injectors 16

Six injectors are located

in

the intake ports.

The ECA

controls the

open. The open or "On time" of the injector determines the amount of fuel delivered. For further information, see Chapter 4. length of time each injector

is

7

7 9

Chapter 6

6-5

Emissions control systems

^!t\\\\v*

ANTI-THEFT MODULE

PASSIVE RESTRAINT

>^

MODULE INERTIA

SWITCH

FUEL PUMP RELAY

The

2.17

fuel

pump

under

relay is located in the trunk

the inertia switch 2.41

Fuel

pump

Refer

to illustration 2.

1

Located

the relay

is

activated by the

When

Start positions.

relay

is

activated for

left

rear quarter panel (see illustration),

ECA when the

the ignition switch

one second

to

is

supply

ignition switch is in the

turned to the initial line

On

On and

position, the

31

32 33

is also activated when the ignition "Hall Effect" switch outputs a Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) signal to the ECA. For information

pump check and

Idle

18

Speed Control

Wide Open

2.1a and 2.1b).

in

is

(WOT)

air

accordance with signals from the

conditioning cutout relay

located on the right side of the firewall (see illustrations

When a WOT condition is detected (by the throttle position

sensor), the air conditioning compressor circuit relay (via the

Detach the vacuum line from the sensor. the two mounting bolts and detach the sensor.

Remove

Installation

is

the reverse of removal.

Canister purge solenoid 34 35

information, see Chapter 4.

Throttle

This relay

4.

motor

This motor changes idle speed

ECA. For more

1

(ISC)

replacement, see Chapter

Locate the BAP sensor on the firewall (see illustration 2.1 b). Unplug the electrical connector from the sensor.

29 30

pressure to the sys-

tem. The relay regarding fuel

clips that retain the

connector to the coolant temperature sensor

1

the trunk on the

in

Use a screwdriver to pry apart the

electrical

relay

is

de-energized by

this

ECA).

Detach the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. Locate the canister purge solenoid between the radiator support and the right headlight (see illustration 2.14). 36 Unplug the electrical connector from the solenoid. 37 Label the vacuum hoses and ports, then detach the hoses. 38 Remove the solenoid. 39 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor Refer

Checking

to illustration

2.41

40

20 Because of the specialized test equipment needed to check the input and output devices, diagnosis of the components described above is well beyond the scope of the home mechanic. If engine driveability deteriorates, take the vehicle to

a dealer service department to have the EEC-IV

system checked.

Detach the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. 41 Locate the ECT sensor near the water outlet connection (see accompanying illustration and 2.1a). 42 Unplug the electrical connector from the sensor. 43 Remove the sensor with a wrench. 44 Wrap the threads of the new sensor with Teflon tape to prevent coolant leakage.

Component replacement

45

Note: Because of the Federally-mandated extended warranty which cov-

Oxygen sensor(s)

ECA,

and the devices it controls, there's no point in replacing any of the following components yourself unless the warranty has expired. However, once the warranty has expired, you may wish to perform some of the following component replacement proceers the

the information sensors

dures yourself after having the problem diagnosed by a dealer service department or repair shop.

Air

Charge Temperature (ACT) sensor

Detach the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. 22 On non-supercharged models, remove the upper intake manifold (see Chapter 4). 23 On all models, locate the ACT sensor on the intake manifold (see illustration 2.1b or 2.3). 24 Unplug the electrical connector from the sensor. 25 Remove the sensor with a wrench. 26 Wrap the threads of the new sensor with Teflon tape to prevent air

Installation

is

46 47

the reverse of removal.

Detach the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. Raise the vehicle and support securely on jackstands. Locate the sensor(s) on the exhaust manifold(s) (see illustration 2.10). 48 Unplug the electrical connector from the sensor(s). 49 Remove the sensor(s) with a wrench. 50 Coat the threads of the new sensor(s) with anti-seize compound to prevent the threads from welding themselves to the manifold. it

51

Installation

is

the reverse of removal.

21

Knock sensor 2.7).

53 54 55

Installation

(non-supercharged models) is

the reverse of removal.

Barometric Absolute Pressure (BAP) sensor (supercharged models). 28

Disconnect the electrical connector. Using a wrench remove the sensor. Installation is the reverse of removal

Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP)

leaks.

27

Locate the sensor on the lower right side of the block (see illustration

52

Detach the cable from the negative terminal

of the battery.

56 57 58 59

Detach the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. Locate the MAP sensor on the firewall (see illustration 2.8). Unplug the electrical connector from the sensor. Detach the vacuum line from the sensor.

6 2 3 7

6-6

3.13

Emissions control systems

Chapter 6

Be sure

to let the engine cool before disconnecting the exhaust tube from the EGR valve

b)

60

Remove

61

Installation is the reverse of

62 Don't attempt to ment procedure for the switch on your vehicle (see Chapter

idle

speed does not is

return to normal (+

replace-

4).

25 rpm)

it

after the

vacu-

detached.

11 Unplug the vacuum pump and reattach the and the idle air bypass valve.

removal.

Sensor (TPS) switch replace the TPS switch before studying the

The

um pump

the two mounting screws and detach the sensor.

Throttle Position

Pry the clips away from the transducer to remove

3.16

EGR vacuum supply line

Component replacement EGR valve Detach the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. Using a wrench, unscrew the threaded fitting that attaches the EGR pipe to the EGR valve (see illustration). 14 Remove the EGR valve mounting bolts (see illustration 2.11) and detach the valve and gasket from the intake manifold. Discard the old gas1 1

Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system

3

Refer

to illustrations 3.

13

and 3. 16

ket.

General description The EGR system is designed

1

15 to reintroduce small

amounts

of ex-

haust gas into the combustion cycle, thus reducing the generation of oxides

of

(NOx)

nitrogen

The amount

emissions.

of

exhaust gas

reintroduced and the timing of the cycle is controlled by various factors such as engine speed, altitude, manifold vacuum, exhaust system backpressure, coolant temperature and throttle angle. The EGR valve is vacuum actuated and the vacuum diagram for your particular vehicle is shown on the Emissions Control Information label in the engine compartment (see illustration 1.7). A Pressure Feedback Electronic (PFE) valve is

Make sure the gasket mating new EGR valve gasket. Note: It's a use anti-seize compound on the threads of the EGR pipe to

Installation

is

the reverse of removal.

surfaces are clean and be sure to use a

good idea

to

prevent them from welding

to the

EGR valve.

EGR 1

transducer Use a screwdriver to

pull

body (see illustration). 1 Detach the hose and the

the retaining clip

electrical

away from

the transducer

connector and remove the trans-

ducer.

18

Installation

is

the reverse of removal.

used.

The PFE valve is a conventional ported EGR valve with a back pressure sensing tube attached to it. The valve is used in conjunction with a 2

4

Fuel evaporative emissions control system

pressure transducer which supplies pressure feedback to the EEC-IV processor.

The

EGR

flow rate

proportional to the pressure drop across a

is

remotely mounted, sharp-edged

3

Make

sure that

all

orifice.

vacuum hoses

are correctly routed and securely

attached. Replace cracked, crimped or broken hoses.

tions.

Unplug the

7

Place the transmission

low

itto idle.

Idle Air

Bypass valve

electrical connector.

warm it up and alNote: The engine's idle speed should not be altered. Iftheidle in

Neutral, start the engine,

speed is high or low, have it adjusted by a dealer service department before proceeding with this test.

8

Disconnect the vacuum

9

Attach a hand

line

EGR valve and plug the line. EGR valve vacuum nipple and

from the

vacuum pump

to the

slowly apply five to ten inches of mercury vacuum. 1

If

any of the following conditions occur when vacuum

EGR valve, a)

is

applied to the

replace the valve:

to illustration

4.3

designed to prevent hydrocarbons from being released into the atmosphere, by trapping and storing fuel vapor from the 1

4 Make sure that there is no vacuum to the EGR valve at idle with the engine at normal operating temperature. Install a tachometer in accordance with the manufacturer's instruc5 6

General description Refer

This system

is

fuel tank.

The serviceable parts of the system include a charcoal filled canister, purge control solenoid, the connecting lines, fuel tankfiller cap and the fuel injection system. 3 Vapor trapped in the gas tank is vented through a valve in the top of the tank. The vapor leaves the valve through a single line and is routed to a charcoal canister located between the right front wheel well and the front bumper, where it's stored until the next time the engine is started (see il2

lustration).

4 The canister outlet is connected to an electrically actuated canister purge solenoid (also see Section 2) which is connected to the intake system. The canister purge solenoid valve is normally closed. When the engine is started, the solenoid is energized by a signal from the ECA and

The idle speed does not drop more than 1 00 rpm orthe engine does

allows intake

not

cleaner housing, which draws vapor stored

stall.

vacuum

to

open the

line

between the canister and the in

the canister.

air

3 2 5

Chapter 6

1

6-7

Emissions control systems

FUEL VAPOR RETURN HOSE AND VALVE ASSY

PCV VALVE

FUEL VAPOR RETURN HOSE AND VALVE ASSY

SCREW

CANISTER AND SLEEVE ASSY

SUPERCOUPE ONLY

4.3

Charcoal canister mounting and hose routing details

VACUUM HOSE ROUTING

Using jumper wires, apply battery voltage to the terminals on the end The valve should open and pass air. If it doesn't, replace the

8

ON

of the valve.

valve.

Component replacement Refer

to illustration 4.

13

Charcoal canister 9

Locate the canister between the radiator support and the

right

head-

light.

10 Reach up above the canister and remove the single mounting bolt (see illustration 4.3). 11 Lower the canister, detach the hose from the purge solenoid valve

and remove the 1

canister.

Installation is the reverse of

removal.

other components Referring to the vacuum hose routing schematic on the VECI label of 1 your vehicle, locate the component to be replaced (see illustration). 1 4 Label the hoses and fittings, then detach the hoses and remove the All

S? movr

4.13

Typical

v

rtxKxl

hose routing on the VECI on the radiator support)

label

(located

component. 1

Installation

is

the reverse of removal.

Checking Charcoal canister There are no moving parts and nothing to wear in the canister. Check cracked or broken fittings and inspect the canister for cracks and other damage. If the canister is damaged, replace it (see Step 9).

5

Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system

5

for loose, missing,

General description Refer 1

to illustration 5.

The

Positive

Crankcase

Ventilation

(PCV) system (see

illustration)

Canister purge solenoid valve

cycles crankcase vapors back through the engine, where they are burned.

6

Remove the valve (see Step 13). With the valve de-energized, apply five in-Hg to the vacuum source port (see illustration 2.14). The valve should not pass air. If it does, re-

The valve regulates the amount

7

intake manifold

place the valve.

of ventilating air and blow-by gas to the and prevents backfire from traveling into the crankcase. 2 The PCV system consists of a replaceable PCV valve, a crankcase ventilation filter and the connecting hoses.

1

6-8

Emissions control systems

Chapter 6

TO EVAPORATIVE VALVE

CLOSURE HOSE OIL FILLER

Checking 4

CAP

in

AIR CLEANER

Checking procedures Chapter 1.

for the

PCV

system components are included

Component replacement INT.

Component replacement involves simply installing a new valve in place of the one removed during the checking procedure.

5

MAN

or

hose

ROCKER COVER ENGINE CRANKCASE

Catalytic converter

6

A typical

5.1

Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system

Refer

to illustrations 6.

1

and 6.2

General description The air source for the crankcase ventilation system

3

is in

the

air

clean-

housing and to the oil filler cap. From the oil filler cap, the airflows into the valve cover and the crankcase, from which it circulates up into another section of the valve cover and finally enters a spring loaded regulator valve (PCV valve) that controls the amount of flow as operating conditions vary. The vapors are routed to the intake manifold through the crankcase vent hose tube and fittings. This process goes on continuously while the engine is running.

passes through a hose connected

er. Air

to the air cleaner

The catalytic converters (see illustration) are designed to reduce hy-

1

drocarbon, carbon monoxide and oxides of nitrogen pollutants haust.

The converters

in

the ex-

components (speeds up the heat between the exhaust gas constituents) and

"oxidize" these

producing chemical reaction

converts them to water and carbon dioxide.

The converters, which closely resemble mufflers, are located in the exhaust system immediately below the exhaust manifolds (see illustra2

tion).

MIXING CHAMBER (MIDBEDI

SHELL ASSY

A typical catalytic converter with a three-way catalyst (reduction of NOx) and convential oxidation catalyst (reduction of HC and CO)

EXHAUST GASES

FROM ENGINE

CONVENTIONAL OXIDATION CATALYST (COO

AIR FROM THERMACTOR PUMP

THREE WAY CATALYST (TWO

Warning:

3 ters,

it

If

large

amounts of unburned gasoline enter the converfire. Always observe the following pre-

may overheat and cause a

cautions:

Use only unleaded gasoline

A void prolonged idling Do not run the engine with

Remove

8

the flange nuts from both ends of the catalytic converter

pipe.

9

Remove

1

Installation

the catalytic converter pipe. is

the reverse of removal.

Be sure

to

use new flange gas-

kets.

a nearly empty fuel tank

Start the

1

engine and check

for leaks.

Checking An

Note:

infrared sensor

catalytic converter.

is

required to check the actual operation of the

Such a device is prohibitively expensive. Take

the ve-

department or a service station for this procedure. However, there are a few things you should check whenever the vehicle is raised for any reason. hicle to a dealer service

4

Check the bolts at the flange between the converter pipes and the Check the flange bolts at the tail pipe. Check the converters for dents (maximum 3/4-inch deep) and other

manifolds.

5

damage which 6

could affect performance.

Inspect the heat insulator plates above and below the catalytic con-

damage and

verter for

loose fasteners.

Component replacement Warn ng Don attempt to work on the exhaust system until the system is i

:

't

cool.

7 ing

Raise the vehicle and place oil

it

securely on jackstands. Apply penetrat-

to the flange nuts at the manifolds

and the

tailpipe.

6.2

This system incorporates two catalytic converters (arrows)

Chapter 7 Part

A Manual transmission

Contents General information

See Chapter

See Chapter 7B

replacement - removal and installation Transmission mount - check and replacement Oil seal

1

Manual transmission lubricant level check Manual transmission overhaul -general information Manual transmission - removal and installation

2

Shift lever

1

4

See Chapter 7B

3

Specifications

General Transmission type

M5R2

Lubricant type

See Chapter

Torque specifications

Ft-ibs 1

Transmission bellhousing-to-engine bolts

30 70 65 50 35

Transmission mount-to-crossmember nut Transmission mount-to-extension housing bolts Transmission crossmember-to-body bracket bolts

1

1

8 to 24

Shift lever-to-case bolt

Drive shaft flange bolts

5-speed synchromesh

to to to

to to

50 95 85 75 50

General information

The manual transmission used manual come equipped with either a 5-speed manual transmission or an automatic transmission. All information on the manual transmission is included in this Part of Chapter 7. Information on the automatic transmission can be found in Part B of this All

vehicles covered

in this

Chapter.

in

these models

is

a 5-speed unit with the

5th gear being an overdrive.

Due to the complexity, cial tools

unavailability of

replacement parts and the spehome mechanic is not recom-

necessary, internal repair by the

mended. The information in this Chapter is limited to general information and removal and installation of the transmission. Depending on the expense involved ir. having a faulty transmission overhauled, it may be a good idea to replace the unit with either a new or rebuilt one. Your local dealer or transmission shop should be able to supply you with information concerning cost, availability and exchange policy. Regardless of how you decide to remedy a transmission problem, you can still save a lot of money by removing and installing the unit yourself.

2

Shift lever

Refer

- removal and

to illustration

installation

2.3

Removal 1

2 3 2.3

Use a socket and extension

to

remove the four

housing from the transmission by prying gently with a screwdriver

bolts, then separate the

Remove the center console (Chapter 11). Remove the shift boot. Remove the four mounting bolts and detach the

lever

assembly from

the transmission (see illustration). Pry carefully on the shift control housing to

detach

it,

then

transmission case.

lift

the housing and lever assembly up and out of the

7A-2

Chapter 7 Part

A Manual

transmission

* LETTERED ITEMS ARE MATCHED TO SHOW LOCATION FOR ASSEMBLY

4.4

M5R2 5-speed

transmission - exploded view

5 8 9 11 7

57 8 1

Chapter 7 Part

A Manual

7A-3

transmission

Top cover Gasket

69

5th gear

2

70

5th gear split bearing assembly

3

Bolt

71

5th gear bearing sleeve

4

Shift control

Countershaft center bearing assembly

5

Bolt

72 73

6 7

5th/reverse shift rod

74

Countershaft front bearing assembly

3rd/4th shift gate

8 9

3rd/4th shift rod

75 76 77 78 79 80 8

1

frame

1st/2nd shift rod

10

Roll-pin

11

1st/2nd shift fork

12 13

3rd/4th shift fork

14

Shift detent ball

1

Shift

16

Detent spring

Interlock pin

1

Speedometer gear snap ring Speedometer drive gear

19

Ball

20 2 22 23

Output shaft locknut Output shaft rear bearing assembly Reverse drive gear Output shaft 5th/Reverse sleeve 5th drive gear Center bearing cover Center bearing cover bolt and

1

24

25 26

82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90

rod damper seat

9 92 93 94 95

washer assembly

27 28 29 30 31

32 33 34 35

36 37 38 39 40 4

42 43 44

45 46 47

48 49 50 5 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61

62 63 64

65 66

67 68

Output shaft center bearing assembly 1st gear bearing sleeve 1st/2nd gear bearing assembly 1st gear Synchro blocking (1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th) ring Synchro 1 st/2nd/3rd/4th spring 1st/2nd synchro clutch hub 1st/2nd synchro sleeve Synchro insert key 1 st/2nd synchro assembly 2nd gear Output shaft 3rd gear bearing assembly 3rd gear 3rd/4th synchro clutch hub 3rd/4th synchro sleeve 3rd/4th synchro assembly 3rd/4th synchro hub spacer 3rd/4th synchro retaining snap ring Output shaft thrust bearing assembly Output shaft pilot bearing assembly Input shaft

assembly Input shaft oil scoop ring Input shaft bearing

Input shaft bearing

oil baffle

Input shaft bearing shim

Input shaft seal

Front bearing cover Front bearing cover bolt

Countershaft locknut Countershaft rear bearing assembly

Reverse gear thrust washer Reverse drive bearing assembly Reverse drive gear Synchro blocking (Reverse) ring 5th/Reverse synchro thrust washer 5th/Reverse synchro split washer Synchro 5th/Reverse spring 5th/Reverse synchro clutch hub 5th/Reverse synchro sleeve 5th/Reverse synchro assembly

Synchro blocking

(5th) ring

96 97 98 99 1 00 101 1

1

02 03

Countershaft Countershaft bearing shim

Reverse Reverse

idler thrust

spacer

Re verse idler gear bearing assembly Reverse gear Reverse idler thrust washer Reverse idler shaft Reverse idler shaft bolt Reverse idler shaft bolt washer Transmission case Front bearing

oil

trough

Oil trough retaining bolt Fill

plug

plug gasket Magnetic drain plug 5th/Reverse shift fork rod 5th/Reverse shift fork bolt 5th/Reverse shift fork 5th gear position switch Back-up light switch Fill/drain

Snap-ring

Washer 5th/Reverse counter lever Counter lever pin O-ring Counter lever pivot pin Counter lever pin retaining plate Counter lever pin locking nut Counter lever retaining plate bolt Shift rail selector finger

104

Extension

05 1 06 107 1 08

Shift rail

1

snap-ring

idler retaining

Shift

shift rail

bushing rail bushing snap-ring

Shift rail offset lever

Control selector spring

109

Gasket

1 1

5th/Reverse inhibitor assembly

111

Bolt

1

12

Gearshift lever guide Gearshift lever guide bolt

13 114

Shift control

1 1

Shift control

116

Shift lever

1 1

Shift le ver

1 1

Shift le ver

1 1

Shift

120 12 122 123 124

Shift lever retaining plate

125 126 127 128 129 130

Output shaft rear bearing sleeve Rear bearing sleeve plate Rear bearing sleeve plate bolt Extension housing output shaft bushing Extension housing oil seal Countershaft oil funnel Extension housing blind cover Extension housing blind cover bolt Breather assembly Breather assembly cover Neutral sensing switch Extension housing Extension housing bolt

1

131 1

32

133 134 135 136 137

housing housing bolt

bushing bushing shim lever bushing wave washer

Dust boot assembly Dust boot assembly

Rear oil trough Rear oil trough

bolt

bolt

2

9 7

7A-4

Chapter 7 Part

A Manual

place, readjust the angle of the transmission so

Installation 4

Place the

shift lever

housing

in

position

and

install

the bolts. Tighten

input shaft so the splines Install

1

the bolts securely.

5

Install

transmission

the shift boot

engage properly

it

is

level and/or turn the

with the clutch.

the transmission bellhousing-to-engine bolts. Tighten the bolts

to the specified torque.

and console.

18

Install

the transmission

mount and crossmember

through-bolts.

Tighten the bolts and nuts securely.

Manual transmission - removal and

3

installation

1

Remove

20

Install

the jacks supporting the transmission and the engine.

the various items

removed previously,

Chapter 8 for

referring to

the installation of the driveshaft and Chapter 4 for information regarding

Removal 1

2

the exhaust system components.

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Working inside the vehicle, remove the shift lever (Section 2). Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Disconnect the speedometer cable and wire harness connectors

3 4 from the transmission. Remove the driveshaft (Chapter 8). Use a plastic bag to cover the end 5 of the transmission to prevent fluid loss and contamination. 6 Remove the exhaust system components as necessary for clearance (Chapter

4).

Support the engine. This can be done from above with an engine hoist, or by placing a jack (with a block of wood as an insulator) under the engine oil pan. The engine should remain supported at all times while the

Make a final check that all wires, hoses and the speedometer cable have been connected and that the transmission has been filled with lubricant to the proper level (Chapter 1 ). Lower the vehicle. 22 Working inside the vehicle, install the shift lever (see Section 2). 23 Connect the negative battery cable. Road test the vehicle for proper operation and check for leakage. 21

Manual transmission overhaul - general information

4

7

transmission

8

is

out of the vehicle.

Support the transmission with a jack - preferably a special jack made purpose. Safety chains will help steady the transmission on the

for this

jack.

Remove the two mount-to-transmission extension housing bolts. Raise the transmission enough to allow removal, remove the crossmember-to-frame bolts, then lower the crossmember. 1 Raise the transmission slightly, remove the crossmember bolts, then lower the crossmember. 11 Remove the bolts securing the transmission bellhousing to the en9

gine. 1 Make a final check that all wires and hoses have been disconnected from the transmission and then move the transmission and jack toward the rear of the vehicle until the transmission input shaft is clear of the clutch

Keep the transmission level as this is done. Once the input shaft is clear, lower the transmission and remove from underthe vehicle. Caution: Do not depress the clutch pedal while the housing.

13

it

transmission

is

out of the vehicle.

The clutch components can now be inspected (Chapter cases, new clutch components should be routinely installed 14

mission

is

8). In if

most

the trans-

removed.

Refer

to illustration 4.4

Overhauling a manual transmission is a difficult job for the do-it yourselfer. It involves the disassembly and reassembly of many small parts. Numerous clearances must be precisely measured and, if necessary, changed with select fit spacers and snap-rings. As a result, if transmission problems arise, it can be removed and installed by a competent do-it-yourbut overhaul should be

selfer,

left

to

a transmission repair shop. Rebuilt

transmissions may be available - check with your dealer parts department

and auto parts stores. At any rate, the time and money involved in an overhaul is almost sure to exceed the cost of a rebuilt unit. Nevertheless, it's not impossible for an inexperienced mechanic to rebuild a transmission if the special tools are available and the job is done in

a deliberate step-by-step manner so nothing

The

is

overlooked.

an overhaul include internal and external snap-ring pliers, a bearing puller, a slide hammer, a set of pin punches, a dial indicator and possibly a hydraulic press. In addition, a large, sturdy workbench and a vise or transmission stand will be required. During disassembly of the transmission, make careful notes of how each piece comes off, where it fits in relation to other pieces and what holds it in place. An exploded view is included (see illustration) to show where the parts go - but actually noting how they are installed when you remove the parts will make it much easier to get the transmission back totools

necessary

for

gether.

Installation 15 16

If

removed,

Before taking the transmission apart for repair, install

the clutch

components (Chapter

8).

With the transmission secured to the jack as on removal, raise the transmission into position behind the engine and then carefully slide it forward, engaging the input shaft with the clutch plate hub. Do not use excessive force to install the transmission

-

if

the input shaft does not slide into

some

idea what area of the transmission

is

it

will

help

if

you have

malfunctioning.

Certain problems can be closely tied to specific areas

in

the transmis-

which can make component examination and replacement easier. Refer to the TroubleshootingsecWon at the front of this manual for information regarding possible sources of trouble. sion,

1

Chapter 7 Part B

:

Automatic transmission

Contents Automatic transmission fluid and filter change Automatic transmission fluid level check Automatic transmission - removal and installation Diagnosis - general General information

See Chapter See Chapter

- replacement replacement Shift linkage - check and adjustment Throttle valve (TV) cable - adjustment Transmission mount - check and replacement Neutral start switch

1

Oil seal

1

8 2 1

Specifications

General Transmission type

AOD

Lubricant type

See Chapter

4-speed automatic

Torque specifications

Ft-lbs

Transmission-to-engine bolts

Drive shaft flange bolts

30 65 50 35 70

Neutral start switch

8 to

Torque converter-to-driveplate nuts Torque converter drain plug

20

Transmission mount-to-crossmember nut Transmission mount-to-extension housing bolts Transmission crossmember-to-body bracket bolts

50 85 75 50 95

to to to

to to 1

to

34

8 to 28

General information

1

1

rections are completed, additional diagnosis should be

done by a dealer

service department or transmission repair shop. Refer to the troubleshoot-

manual come equipped with either a 5-speed manual transmission or an automatic transmission. All information on the automatic transmission is included in this Part of Chapter 7. Information on the manual transmission can be found in Part A of this All

vehicles covered

in this

manual

for information

on symptoms of

transmission problems.

Preliminary checks Drive the vehicle to warm the transmission to normal operating tem1

Chapter.

Due

ing Section at the front of this

complexity of the automatic transmissions covered in this manual and the need for specialized equipment to perform most service operations, this Chapter contains only general diagnosis, routine mainteto the

perature.

2

Check a)

If

the fluid level as described

the

fluid level is

in

Chapter

1

unusually low, add enough

fluid to

within the designated area of the dipstick, then

nance, adjustment and removal and installation procedures. If the transmission requires major repair work, it should be left to adeal-

bring the level

check

for external

leaks (see below). b)

department or an automotive or transmission repair shop. You remove and install the transmission yourself and save the expense, even the repair work is done by a transmission shop.

er service

abnormally high, drain off the excess, then check contamination by coolant. The presence of engine coolant in the automatic transmission fluid indicates that a failure has occurred in the internal radiator walls that separate the If

the

fluid level is

the drained

can, however,

if

fluid for

fluid (see Chapter 3). and refill the transmission, then check

coolant from the transmission c)

2

Diagnosis - general

If

the fluid

is

foaming, drain

for coolant in the fluid or

it

a high

fluid level.

Check the engine idle speed. Note: If the engine is malfunctioning, do not proceed with the preliminary checks until it has been repaired and runs

3

Note A utomatic transmission malfunctions may be caused by five general conditions: poor engine performance, improper adjustments, hydraulic malfunctions, mechanical malfunctions or malfunctions in the computer or its signal network. Diagnosis of these problems should always begin with a check of the easily repaired items: fluid level and condition (Chapter 1), :

linkage adjustment and throttle linkage adjustment. Next, perform a road test to determine if the problem has been corrected or if more diagnosis is necessary. If the problem persists after the preliminary tests and corshift

normally.

Check the throttle valve cable for freedom of movement. Adjust it if 4 necessary (Section 5). Note: The throttle cable may function properly when the engine is shut off and cold, but it may malfunction once the engine is hot. Check it cold and at normal engine operating temperature. 5 ly

Inspectthe shift control linkage (Section 3). Make sure that it's properadjusted and that the linkage operates smoothly.

8 9 4 6 7 5 3 1

7

7B-2

Chapter 7 Part B

Automatic transmission

Most fluid leaks are easy to locate visually. Repair usually consists of

6

replacing a seal or gasket.

dure may help. 7 Identify the fluid.

If

a leak

is difficult

to find, the following proce-

Make sure it's transmission fluid and not engine oil or

a deep red color). 8 Try to pinpoint the source of the leak. Drive the vehicle several miles, then park it over a large sheet of cardboard. After a minute or two, you should be able to locate the leak by determining the source of the fluid drip-

brake

fluid

in any position other than Park and Neutral, the shift adjustment or the Neutral start switch is defective (see

Neutral or operates

Fluid leak diagnosis

(automatic transmission

fluid is

ping onto the cardboard.

linkage

Section

see.

of

5).

Adjustment Refer 2

to illustration

3.6

Place the selector lever

in

Overdrive.

If

the leak

still

cannot be found, clean the suspected area thoroughly

with a degreaser or solvent, then dry

lever

must be held against

Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. shift cable bracket retaining nut. Move the transmission lever to the Overdrive position, which is the 5 third detent from the full counterclockwise position. With both the selector and transmission levers now in the same posi6 3

Loo,sen the

tions, tighten the retaining nut securely

1

The

the rear Overdrive stop during the adjustment procedure.

4

9 Make a careful visual inspection of the suspected component and the area immediately around it. Pay particular attention to gasket mating surfaces. A mirror is often helpful for finding leaks in areas that are hard to

need

is

7

After adjustment,

check the

shift

(see illustration).

selector for proper operation.

it.

Drive the vehicle for several miles at normal operating temperature

1

and varying speeds. After driving the vehicle, visually inspect the suspected component again. 12 Once the leak has been located, the cause must be determined before can be properly repaired. If a gasket is replaced but the sealing flange is bent, the new gasket will not stop the leak. The bent flange must be straightened. 1 Before attempting to repair a leak, check to make sure that the following conditions are corrected or they may cause another leak. Note Some of the following conditions cannot be fixed without highly specialized tools and expertise. Such problems must be referred to a transmission repair shop or a dealer service department. it

:

Gasket leaks Check the pan

1

periodically.

may

indicate

Make sure the bolts are tight, no bolts are

good condition and the pan damage to the valve body inside).

missing, the gasket

is in

is flat

(dents

in

the pan

is leaking, the fluid level or the fluid pressure may be may be plugged, the pan bolts may be too tight, the pan sealing flange may be warped, the sealing surface of the transmission housing may be damaged, the gasket may be damaged or the transmission casting may be cracked or porous. sealant instead of gasket materi1

If

the pan gasket

too high, the vent

If

al

3.6 With the shift lever held in the Overdrive position (3rd detent from the full counterclockwise position), tighten the cable bracket

retaining nut (A)

has been used to form a seal between the pan and the transmission it may be the wrong sealant.

housing,

Seal leaks is leaking, the fluid level or pressure may be too may be plugged, the seal bore may be damaged, the seal itself may be damaged or improperly installed, the surface of the shaft protruding through the seal may be damaged or a loose bearing may be caus1

a transmission seal

If

high, the vent

ing excessive shaft 1

Make

for

good condition and the tube is speedometer transmission fluid is evident, check the O-

leakage.

If

Refer 1

The

shifts.

the case

itself appears to be leaking, the casting is porous and will be repaired or replaced. Make sure the oil cooler hose fittings are tight and in good condition.

1

If

1

to

20

If

comes

out vent pipe or

this condition occurs,

the fluid, the case

is

fill

tube

the transmission

porous, the dipstick

is

is overfilled,

If

there

is

is

coolant

in

plugged or

the drain back holes are plugged.

and 4.

valve (TV) cable and linkage controls transmission

throttle

shift points, shift feel, part throttle

the

TV

linkage

tral

is

line

downshifts and detent down-

broken, sticky or misadjusted, the vehicle

will

during this adjustment.

Remove the

air

cable at the throttle

incorrect, the vent

4.6

experience a number of problems such as early and/or soft upshifts and no downshift or a harsh downshift function. 2 The engine should not be running and the shift lever must be in Neu3

Fluid

to illustrations 4.4, 4.5,

pressure,

damage.

Case leaks have

- adjustment

is in

properly seated. Periodically check the area around the ring for

Throttle valve (TV) cable

movement.

sure the dipstick tube seal

gear or sensor

4

4

cleaner assembly and

inlet

tube for access to the

TV

lever.

Pry the grooved pin on the cable assembly out of the grommet on the body lever with a wide bladed screwdriver (see illustration).

throttle

5

Push the white locking tab out with a small screwdriver (see illustra-

tion).

Make sure the plastic block with the pin and tab slides freely on the notched rod (see illustration). If it doesn't, the white tab may not be pushed out far enough. 7 Hold the throttle lever firmly against the idle stop and push the grooved pin into the grommet on the throttle lever as far as it will go (see illustration). Make sure not to move the throttle lever away from the idle 6

3

Shift linkage

- check and adjustment

Check Try to start the engine in each shift lever position; the starter should operate Park and Neutral only. If the starter does not operate in Park or 1

stop during this procedure.

8

Install

the air cleaner assembly.

Chapter 7 Part B

7B-3

Automatic transmission

PRY GROOVED PIN OUT OF GROMMET

PUSH OUT WHITE LOCKING TAB FROM THIS SIDE WHITE LOCKING TAB PUSHED OUT COMPLETELY

PRY GROOVED PIN OUT OF GROMMET

BRACKETRY 3

8LSC

Pry the grooved pin out of the grommet with a wide bladed screwdriver

4.4

4.5

Push the white locking tab out (non-supercharged models top, supercharged (SC) models, bottom)

(EFI)

CHECK TO ENSURE PLASTIC BLOCK SLIDES FREELY ON NOTCHED ROD

^^_ -

WHILE HOLDING THROTTLE LEVER FIRMLY AGAINST ITS IDLE STOP

PUSH GROOVED PIN INTO GROMMET /ON THROTTLE LEVER AS FAR AS IT WILL GO.

MUST SLIDE FREELY

CHECK TO ENSURE PLASTIC BLOCK SLIDES FREELY ON NOTCHED ROD WHILE HOLDING THROTTLE LEVER FIRMLY AGAINST ITS IDLE STOP

PUSH GROOVED PIN INTO GROMMET ON THROTTLE LEVER AS FAR AS IT WILL GO.

MUST SLIDE FREELY 4.6

The

plastic block

must

slide freely, with

no binding

4.7

Make sure

the grooved pin

is

securely installed

7B-4

Chapter 7 Part B

Automatic transmission

NEUTRAL START SWITCH

5.5 The Neutral start switch can be unscrewed after unplugging it - the switch is very fragile, so a special socket is recommended for installation

6.2

6

Pry between the crossmember and the transmission mount - there should be very little movement

Transmission mount - check and replacement

MANUAL TRANSMISSION Refer

BODY BRACKET AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION

to illustrations

6.2

and 6.3

a large screwdriver or pry bar into the space between the transmission extension housing and the crossmember and try to pry the transmission up slightly. 2 The transmission should not move away from the mount much at all 1

Insert

(see illustration). 3 To replace the mount, remove the nut attaching the mount to the crossmember, then remove the bolts attaching the mount to the transmission extension housing (see illustration). 4 Raise the transmission slightly with a jack and remove the mount. 5 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Be sure to tighten the nuts/bolts securely.

7

Oil seal

Refer

replacement

to illustrations 7.3, 7.5

and

7.8

Oil leaks frequently occur due to wear of the extension housing oil seal and bushing (if equipped), and/or the speedometer drive gear oil seal and O-ring. Replacement of these seals is relatively easy, since the repairs can usually be performed without removing the transmission from 1

6.3

Transmission mount details

the vehicle.

Neutral start

5

Refer

to illustration

5.5

Low. Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Disconnect the negative cable at the battery. 3 4 Disconnect the electrical connector from the neutral start switch. Carefully remove the switch and O-ring using Ford socket tool 5 T74P-77247-A (see illustration), if possible. Install the switch and new O-ring and tighten to the specified torque 6 using the Ford tool. This tool is designed to remove and install the switch without damaging it. Caution: It is easy to crush or puncture the walls of 1

Place the

shift lever in

2

the switch.

7

Install

ful to

8

the electrical connector.

If

the tool

is

not available, be very care-

not overtighten the switch.

starts only

is

located at the extreme rear of the

is

attached.

The extension housing

oil

If

leakage at the seal

is

suspected, raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. If the seal is leaking, transmission lubricant will be built up on the front of the driveshaft and may be dripping from the rear of the transmission. 3

Using a screwdriver or pry bar, carefully pry the oil seal out of the rear (see illustration). Do not damage the splines on the

of the transmission

transmission output shaft.

removed with a screwdriver or pry bar, a spewill be required. Using a large section of pipe or a very large deep socket as a drift, 5 into the bore squarely and make sure it's install the new oil seal. Drive

4

If

cial oil

the

oil

seal cannot be

seal removal tool (available at auto parts stores)

it

completely seated (see illustration). 6 Lubricate the splines of the transmission output shaft and the outside of the driveshaft sleeve yoke with lightweight grease, then install the drive-

Be careful not to damage the lip of the new seal. The speedometer cable and driven gear housing is

shaft.

Connect the negative battery cable.

Check that the engine 9 and Park positions.

seal

transmission, where the driveshaft

2

switch - replacement

when

7 the selector

is in

the Neutral

located on the Look for transmission oil around the cable the seal and O-ring are leaking.

side of the extension housing.

housing to determine

if

4 5 6 8 2 3 7 9

Chapter 7 Part B

7.3

7B-5

Automatic transmission

Use a

large screwdriver (shown) or a seal removal to pry the seal out of the transmission extension housing

A

7.5

large socket

and hammer can be used

to tap the

new

seal

evenly into the bore

SPRING RETAINING CLIP

DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE THIS WHEN THE SPEEDOMETER CABLE IS INSTALLED

NOTE: CLIP

•SNAP-IN"

INTERNAL O-RING (MUST B€ PROPERLY SEATED BEFORE INSERTING SPEEDOMETER CABLE

SPEED SENSOR

CONNECTOR

Speedometer driven gear

7.8

8

SPEEDOMETER CABLE

Disconnect the speedometer cable or electrical connector (see

illus-

1

details

Remove any exhaust components which will

interfere with transmis-

tration).

sion removal (Chapter 4).

Using a hook, remove the seal. Install a new O-ring in the driven gear housing and reinstall the driven gear housing and cable assembly on the extension housing.

Disconnect the TV cable. Disconnect the shift linkage. 1 Support the engine with a jack. Use a block of wood under the oil pan to spread the load. 1 Support the transmission with a jack - preferably a jack made for this purpose. Safety chains will help steady the transmission on the jack. 1 Remove the two mount-to-transmission extension housing bolts. 1 Raise the transmission enough to allow removal, remove the crossmember-to-frame bolts, then lower the crossmember.

9 1

8

Automatic transmission - removal and installation

Removal

1

1

Disconnect the negative cable for the battery. Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands.

1

Remove

20

Lower the transmission slightly and disconnect and plug the transmis-

3 4 5

Drain the transmission

sion fluid cooler lines.

6

Remove the torque converter-to-driveplate nuts. Turn the crankshaft

1

2

Remove

fluid

(Chapter

1 ),

then

reinstall

the pan.

each

viewed from the

nut.

paint so

Turn the crankshaft in a clockwise direction only (as

Rotate the torque converter until the drain plug is at it's lowest point. Place the pan under the torque converter, remove the drain plug an allow

the fluid to drain. Install the drain plug and tighten

Remove Remove

the starter motor (Chapter

it

securely.

driveplate.

it

Secure the torque converter to the transmission so

it

won't

fall

out during removal.

the driveshaft (Chapter 8).

Disconnect the speedometer cable or speed sensor

Installation 23 Prior to installation, make sure the torque converter hub is securely engaged in the pump. 24 With the transmission secured to the jack, raise into position. Be sure to keep level so the torque converter does not slide forward. Conit

5).

it

electrical

nector. 11

22

front).

7

8 9 10

Remove the transmission dipstick tube. Move the transmission to the rear to disengage from the engine block dowel pins and make sure the torque converter is detached from the 21

the torque converter cover.

Mark the torque converter and one of the studs with white they can be installed in the same position (see illustration). for access to

the bolts securing the transmission to the engine.

Detach the wire harness connectors from the transmission.

con-

nect the transmission

fluid

cooler lines.

Turn the torque converter to line up the studs with the holes in the driveplate. The white paint mark on the torque converter and the stud made

25

7B-6 in

26

Chapter 7 Part B

Step 5 must

Automatic transmission

line up.

Move the transmission

forward carefully

until

the dowel pins and the

torque converter are engaged.

27

Install

the transmission housing-to-engine bolts. Tighten them se-

curely.

28

Install

the torque converter-to-driveplate nuts. Tighten the nuts to the

specified torque.

29

Install

the transmission mount and

crossmember

through-bolts.

Tighten the bolts and nuts securely.

30

Remove

31

Install

the dipstick tube.

32

Install

the starter motor (Chapter

33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40

Connect the vacuum hose(s) (if equipped). Connect the shift and TV linkage. Plug

in

the transmission wire harness connectors.

Install

the torque converter cover.

Install

the driveshaft.

Connect the speedometer cable or speed sensor connector. Adjust the Install

shift linkage.

any exhaust system components that were removed or discon-

nected.

the jacks supporting the transmission and the engine.

5).

41

Lower the

42

Fill

vehicle.

the transmission with the specified

gine and check for

fluid leaks.

fluid

(Chapter

1 ),

run the en-

Chapter 8

Clutch and driveline

Contents Clutch components

- removal,

inspection and installation 3 and check 2 Clutch hydraulic system - bleeding 8 Clutch hydraulic system fluid level check See Chapter 1 Clutch master cylinder - removal and installation 7 Clutch release bearing - removal, inspection and Installation .... 5 Clutch slave cylinder- removal and installation 6 Clutch/starter interlock switch - check and replacement 9 Constant Velocity (CV) joint - boot replacement and overhaul ... 16 Differential pinion seal - replacement 13 Differential lubricant level check See Chapter 1

Clutch

-

Differential carrier

description

Differential side

Driveshaft

Driveshaft

See Chapter 28 7/8 in

Torque specifications

Ft-ibs

Bellhousing-to-engine bolts

40 80 70

Differential carrier

mounting bolts

Driveshaft-to-companion flange bolts Pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts

Slave cylinder-to-transmission bolts

- inspection - removal and

18 17 10

installation

11

See Chapter 2

General information Halfshafts, Constant Velocity (CV) joints and boots - check Halfshaft - removal and installation Pilot bearing - inspection and replacement Universal joints - replacement

General Halfshaft length

- removal and installation seal - replacement

Flywheel - removal and installation

Specifications

Fluid type

oil

to to

to

15 to 15 to

50 100 95 25 20

1

1

14 15 4 12

1

8-2

Chapter 8

ENGINE FLYWHEEL BOLTED TO ENGINE CRANKSHAFT AND ROTATES WITH THE CRANKSHAFT IT IS MACHINED TO PROVIDE A FRICTION SURFACE OF THE CLUTCH DISC WHEN THE CLUTCH IS ENGAGED THIS FORMS A CONTINUOUS SYSTEM BY WHICH ENGINE POWER IS CONNECTED TO THE TRANSMISSION

Clutch and driveline FLYWHEEL HOUSING

CLUTCH DISC — AN ASSEMBLY ATTACHED TO THE TRANSMISSION SHAFT WITH A SPLINED HUB. THE DISC HAS FRICTION MATERIAL ON BOTH SIDES WHERE IT CONTACTS THE FLYWHEEL AND PRESSURE PLATE.

PRESSURE PLATEAPPLIES PRESSURE AGAINST THE CLUTCH

DAMPER SPRINGS

DISC HOLDING IT TIGHTLY AGAINST THE SURFACE OF THE ENGINE FLYWHEEL.

PART OF THE DISC

ASSEMBLY REQUIRED FOR ABSORBING ENGINE PULSES.

RELEASE BEARING—CONSTANTLY ENGAGED WITH RELEASE FINGERS PROVIDES CONNECTION BETWEEN RELEASE FINGERS AND SLAVE CYLINDER

BEARINGSUPPORTS OUTBOARD END OF TRANSMISSION INPUT SHAFT AND IS REQUIRED FOR RELATIVE ROTATION BETWEEN ENGINE AND PILOT

SLAVE CYLINDER IMPARTS PEDAL MOTION TO RELEASE BEARING HYDRAULIC CONTROLS

TRANSMISSION

RELEASE FINGERS— PART OF THE BELLEVILLE LOAD SPRING. MOVEMENT TOWARD FLYWHEEL REMOVES CLAMP LOAD FROM CLUTCH DISC 2.1

TRANSMISSION INPUT SHAFT

Cutaway view

of the clutch

5 1

General information

The

information

in this

dealt with

in

Other than to replace components with obvious damage, some prechecks should be performed to diagnose clutch problems. a) The first check should be of the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder. If the fluid level is low, add fluid as necessary and inspect the hydraulic system for leaks. If the master cylinder reservoir has run dry, bleed the system as described in Section 8 and retest the

Chapter deals with the components from the

the previous Chapter.

clutch operation.

For the purposes of this Chapter, these components are grouped into b)

three categories: clutch, driveshaft and rear axle assembly. Separate Sec-

Chapter offer general descriptions and checking procedures for components in each of the three groups. Since nearly all the procedures covered in this Chapter involve working under the vehicle, make sure it's securely supported on sturdy jackstands or on a hoist where the vehicle can be easily raised and lowered. tions within this

c)

2

Clutch - description and check

Refer

to illustration 2.

To check "clutch spin down time," run the engine at normal idle speed with the transmission in Neutral (clutch pedal up-engaged). Disengage the clutch (pedal down), wait several seconds and shift the transmission into Reverse. No grinding noise should be heard. A grinding noise would most likely indicate a problem in the pressure plate or the clutch disc. To check for complete clutch release, run the engine (with the parking brake applied to prevent movement) and hold the clutch pedal approximately 1/2-inch from the floor. Shift the transmission between 1 st gear and Reverse several times. If the shift is hard or the transmissiongrinds.componentfailure is indicated. Check the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder and bleed the system (see Section 8).

models equipped with a manual transmission use a single dry plate, diaphragm spring type clutch (see illustration). The clutch disc has a splined hub which allows to slide along the splines of the transmission input shaft. The clutch and pressure plate are held in contact by spring pressure exerted by the diaphragm in the pressure plate. The clutch release system is operated by hydraulic pressure. The hy2 draulic release system consists of the clutch pedal, a master cylinder and fluid reservoir, the hydraulic line, and a release (or slave) cylinder which 1

components

liminary

rear of the engine to the rear wheels, except for the transmission, which is

—

PART OF PRESSURE PLATE ASSEMBLY.

COVER

d)

All

Visually inspect the pivot bushing at the top of the clutch pedal to

make

sure there

is

no binding or excessive

play.

it

actuates clutch release (or throwout) bearing. When pressure is applied to the clutch pedal to release the clutch, hy3 draulic pressure is exerted against the release bearing. The bearing pushes against the fingers of the diaphragm spring of the pressure plate

assembly, which in turn releases the clutch plate. Terminology can be a problem when discussing the clutch compo4 nents because common names are in some cases different from those

used by the manufacturer. For example, the driven plate is also called the clutch plate or disc, the clutch release bearing is sometimes called a throwout bearing, the release cylinder is sometimes called the operating or slave cylinder.

3

Clutch components - removal, inspection and installation

Warning: Dust produced by clutch wear and deposited on clutch components may contain asbestos, which is hazardous to your health. DO NOT blow it out with compressed air and DO NOT inhale DO NOT use gasoline or petroleum-based solvents to remove the dust. Brake system cleaner should be used to flush the dust into a drain pan. After the clutch components are wiped clean with a rag, dispose of the contaminated rags and cleaner in a covered, marked container. it.

Removal Refer

to illustration

3.6

Access to the clutch components is normally accomplished by removing the transmission, leaving the engine in the vehicle. If, of course, the engine is being removed for major overhaul, then check the clutch for 1

3

Chapter 8

3.6

If

you're going to re-use the same pressure plate, mark relationship to the flywheel (arrow)

8-3

Clutch and driveline

Check the clutch

plate lining, springs and splines (arrows) for wear

3.11

it's

wear and replace worn components as necessary. However, the relatively low cost of the clutch components compared to the time and trouble spent gaining access to them warrants their replacement anytime the engine or transmission

The

EXCESSIVE WEAR

removed, unless they are new or in near perfect condition. based on the assumption the engine will

is

following procedures are

stay

in

place.

remove the transmission from the veSupport the engine while the transmission is out. Preferably, an engine hoist should be used to support it from above. However, if a jack is used underneath the engine, make sure a piece of wood is positioned beReferring to Chapter 7 Part A,

2

hicle.

tween the jack and

pan

NORMAL FINGER WEAR

spread the load. Caution: The pickup for the oil pan. If the pan is bent or distorted in any way, engine oil starvation could occur. Remove the bellhousing-to-engine bolts and then detach the hous3 ing. It may have to be gently pried off the alignment dowels with a screw-

pump is

oil

oil

to

EXCESSIVE WEAR

The release (slave) cylinder and release bearing can remain attached housing for the time being. To support the clutch disc during removal, through the clutch disc hub.

EXCESSIVE FINGER

to the

5 tool

WEAR

very close to the bottom of the

driver or pry bar.

4

EXCESSIVE FINGER

BROKEN OR BENT FINGERS

WEAR

a clutch alignment

install

Carefully inspect the flywheel and pressure plate for indexing marks. 6 The marks are usually an X, an O or a white letter. they cannot be found, scribe marks yourself so the pressure plate and the flywheel will be in the If

same alignment

during installation (see illustration).

Turning each bolt only a

little at a time, loosen the pressure plate-toa criss-cross pattern until all spring pressure is relieved. Then hold the pressure plate securely and completely remove the bolts, followed by the pressure plate and clutch disc.

7

Work

flywheel bolts.

in

EXCESSIVE SCORING

Inspection Refer 8

Ordinarily,

wear

3.1 3

to illustrations 3.

1 1

when a problem occurs in the clutch,

of the clutch driven plate

assembly

it

the surface

flat

and

and smooth, which

installation

is

highly

shop can machine

recommended regardless

of

B for the flywheel remov-

procedure.

Inspect the

11

Inspect the lining on the clutch disc. There should be at least

bearing (see Section

/1

6-inch of lining

1 Check the machined surfaces and the diaphragm spring fingers of the pressure plate (see illustration). If the surface is grooved or otherwise damaged, replace the pressure plate. Also check for obvious damage,

distortion, cracking, etc. Light glazing

emery

cloth.

If

new pressure

a

plate

can be removed with medium grit required, new and factory-rebuilt

is

4).

above the rivet heads. Check for loose cracks, broken springs and other obvious damage (see 1

noted

units are available.

1

pilot

is

at this time.

the surface appearance. Refer to Chapter 2 Part al

excessive wear

can be attributed to However, all com-

the imperfections are slight, a machine

If

if

(clutch disc).

Inspect the flywheel for cracks, heat checking, grooves and other ob-

vious defects.

Replace the pressure plate

and 3. 13

ponents should be inspected 9

CLUTCH CHATTER

rivets, distortion,

illustration).

As

Installation Refer

to illustrations 3.

15a and

3.

15b

mentioned above, ordinarily the clutch disc is routinely replaced, so if in doubt about the condition, replace with a new one. 12 The release bearing should also be replaced along with the clutch

clean the flywheel and pressure plate machined surfaces with brake cleaner, lacquer thinner or acetone. It's important that

disc.

the parts only with clean hands.

it

14

no

Before

oil

installation,

or grease

is

on these surfaces or the

lining of the clutch disc.

Handle

8 9 6 5 7

8-4

mar

mjmm

Use a clutch alignment

Position the clutch disc

the clutch held

sure

it's

in

and pressure

plate against the flywheel with

place with an alignment tool (see illustration).

installed properly.

Make

Most replacement clutch plates will be marked - if not marked, install the clutch disc

"flywheel side" or something similar with the

damper

springs toward the transmission (see illustration).

Tighten the pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts only finger tight, working

1

around the pressure plate. 1 Center the clutch disc by ensuring the alignment tool extends through the splined hub and into the pilot bearing in the crankshaft. Wiggle the tool up, down or side-to-side as needed to bottom the tool in the pilot bearing. Tighten the pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts a little at a time, working in a criss-cross pattern to prevent distorting the cover. After

snug, tighten them to the torque

move

of the bolts are

Chapter's Specifications. Re-

the alignment tool.

Install

1

listed in this

all

the slave cylinder as described

Section

in

6.

Tighten

all

fasten-

ers to the proper torque specifications.

Using high-temperature grease, lubricate

1

the.

inner surface of the re-

lease bearing. Install

the release bearing as described

21

Install

the bellhousing and tighten the bolts to the torque listed

in

Section

Pilot

Refer 1

into the rear of the

crankshaft (see illustration).

is

to

Its

It

is

greased

1,

4.5

support the front of the transmission input shaft. The

pilot

bearing

should be inspected whenever the clutch components are removed from the engine. Due to its inaccessibility, if you are in doubt as to its condition, replace it with a new one. Note: If the engine has been removed from the vehicle, disregard the following steps

which do not apply.

3

Remove Remove

4

Inspect for any excessive wear, scoring, lack of grease, dryness or

2

the transmission (see Chapter 7 Part A). the clutch

components (see Section

3).

obvious damage.

If any of these conditions are noted, the bearing should be replaced. A flashlight will be helpful to direct light into the recess. Removal can be accomplished with a special puller and slide hammer 5 (see illustration), but an alternative method also works very well. Find a solid steel bar which is slightly smaller in diameter than the 6 bearing. Alternatives to a solid bar would be a wood dowel or a socket with a bolt fixed in place to make it solid.

Check the bar for fit -

it

should

just slip into the

bearing with very

in this

is

a needle

roller

type bearing which

is

NEEDLE ROLLER BEARING

RECESS FOR REMOVAL TOOL

IRON COLLAR

SEAL NOTE: IRON COLLAR AND

ROLLER BEARING ARE ONE ASSY ANO CANNOT BE REPLACED INDIVIDUALLY. 4.1

little

Pack the bearing and the area behind it (in the crankshaft recess) with heavy grease. Pack it tightly to eliminate as much air as possible.

8

and 4.9

clutch pilot bearing

at

primary purpose

bearing - inspection and replacement

to illustrations 4.

The

pressed

clearance.

5.

Chapter's Specifications.

4

clutch disc is installed with the marked face against the flywheel

the factory and does not require additional lubrication.

7

20

Make sure the

3.15b

tool to center the clutch disc, then tighten the pressure plate bolts

3.15a

1

Clutch and driveline

Chapter 8

The pilot bearing incorporates an O-ring seal which can't be replaced separately - if there is any evidence that the seal has been leaking, or if the bearing is dry, replace it

4.5

One method puller

of removing the pilot bearing requires a connected to a slide hammer

1

Chapter 8

8-5

Clutch and driveline Removal

Remove the transmission following the procedure described in Chap7 Part A. Turn the bearing/carrier assembly until resistance is felt, then turn it 2 slightly further which will disengage the carrierfrom the slave cylinder (see 1

ter

illustration).

Inspection 3

Inspect the bearing for cracks,

ter of the

wear and other damage. Hold the cen-

bearing and turn the outer race while applying pressure to

bearing doesn't turn smoothly or

if it

is

noisy, replace

it

with a

it. If

new one.

the It

is

a good idea to replace the bearing whenever a clutch job is performed, to decrease the possibility of bearing failure in the future, although Ford states that this

4.9 Pack the cavity behind the pilot bearing with heavy grease and force it out hydraulically with a rod slightly smaller than the bore in the bearing - when the hammer strikes the rod, the bearing will pop out of the crankshaft

for

9

hammer which

will

and

strike the

bar sharply with a

force the grease to the back side of the bearing

push it out (see illustration). from the crankshaft recess.

Remove

the bearing

and clean

all

and

grease

seal

1

Install

removed

must face out (see illustration 4.1). the clutch components, transmission and all other components previously, tightening

life)

all

illustration

5.2

Warning Dust produced by clutch wear and deposited on clutch compo:

nents may contain asbestos, which is hazardous to your health. DO NOT blow it out with compressed air and DO NOT inhale any of DO NOT use gasoline or petroleum-based solvents to remove the dust. Brake system cleaner should be used to flush the dust into a drain pan. After the clutch components are wiped clean with a rag, dispose of the contaminated rags and cleaner in a covered container. it.

SLAVE CYLINDER

to

do so would

ruin

it.

Fill

the groove

in

the inside diameter of the bearing with lithium-based

6

Properly position the bearing on the shaft and push

it

on (see illustra-

tion 5.2).

The remainder of the assembly procedure is the reverse of removal. Be sure to bleed the clutch hydraulic system as described in Section 8.

6

Clutch slave cylinder - removal and installation

fasteners properly.

Clutch release bearing - removal, inspection and installation

Refer to

and

grease. Also apply a thin coat of this grease to the entire inner diameter.

Refer 5

not absolutely necessary.

is

7

10 To install the new bearing, lightly lubricate the outside surface with lithium-based grease, then drive it into the recess with a soft-face hammer.

The

if it

Installation 5

Insert the bar into the bearing bore

is

decided to re-use the old release bearing, clean the external surfaces and inside diameter with a solvent-moistened rag. Do not immerse the bearing in solvent, as it is packed with grease from the factory (sealed 4

to illustrations 6.3

and 6.5

Warning: Dust produced by clutch wear and deposited on clutch components may contain asbestos, which is hazardous to your health. DO NOT bio wit out with compressed air and DO NO T inhale any of it. DO NO Tuse gasoline or petroleum-based solvents to remove the dust. Brake system cleaner should be used to flush the dust into a drain pan. After the clutch components are wiped clean with a rag, dispose of the contaminated rags and cleaner in a covered container.

Removal 1

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal.

2

Raise the vehicle and support

it

securely on jackstands.

PRELOAD SPRING

FRONT OF VEHICLE

RELEASE BEARING/ CARPIER ASSEMBLY

TRANSMISSION INPUT SHAFT

REMOVAL 5.2

INSTALLATION

To remove the release bearing/carrier, twist the bearing until it unlocks - to install push it on until the tab on the slave cylinder engages with the carrier

it,

just

1

8-6

Clutch and driveline

Chapter 8

TRANSMISSION BELL HOUSING

TRANSMISSION INPUT SHAFT HYDRAULIC BLEED SCREW

HYDRAULIC CLUTCH LINE

COUPLING

DISCONNECT TOOL T88T-70522-A

6.3 To disconnect the hydraulic line from the slave cylinder or master cylinder, use the tool shown (or an equivalent substitute) to push the white plastic sleeve back while pulling on the line

BOLT REQ'D)

(2

Slave cylinder mounting details

6.5

Disconnect the hydraulic line at the slave cylinder. Slide the white plastic sleeve toward the slave cylinder while lightly pulling on the hydraulic line (see illustration). Have a small can or some rags handy to catch 3

the spilling

4 5

fluid.

Remove the transmission as described in Chapter 7 Part A. Remove the two slave cylinder bolts and pull the cylinder off the trans-

HOSE

BOX END

BLEED

WRENCH

SCREW

mission input shaft (see illustration).

6

Separate the release bearing from the slave cylinder as described

Section

in

5.

Installation the release bearing to the slave cylinder (see Section 5).

7

Install

8

Slide the cylinder over the transmission input shaft

bolts, tightening

them

to the torque listed in this

9

Install

1

Connect the hydraulic

and

install

the two

Chapter's Specifications.

the transmission. line to

with brake fluid conforming to

the slave cylinder,

fill

the

DOT 3 specifications and

fluid

reservoir

bleed the clutch

system as outlined in Section 8. 1 Reconnect the negative battery cable.

7

The slave cylinder bleeder screw opening is located on the side of the transmission - connect a hose to the bleeder screw, place the other end of the hose in a container of clean brake fluid and have an assistant depress the clutch pedal - any air will show up as bubbles in the tube and container 8.4

Clutch master cylinder - removal and installation

left

1

Detach the hydraulic

line

from the clutch master cylinder (see

illus-

tration 6.3).

Remove the two push

pins retaining the clutch master cylinder resershock tower. Disconnect the pushrod from the clutch pedal. 3 Rotate the master cylinder 45-degrees counterclockwise. 4 Carefully pull the master cylinder through the firewall. 5 Note the routing of the hydraulic line to the slave cylinder and remove 6 the master cylinder from the engine compartment.

2

voir to the left

7

Installation

8

Bleed the clutch hydraulic system (see Section

8

is

the reverse of removal. 8).

to illustration 8.4

The hydraulic system should be bled of all air whenever any part of the system has been removed or the fluid level has been allowed to fall so low that air has been drawn into the master cylinder. The procedure is very 1

if

similar to bleeding

a brake system.

Fill

the master cylinder with

Do

new brake

fluid

conforming

to

DOT

3

coming from the system during the bleeding operation or use fluid which has been inside an open container for an extended period of time. 3 Raise the vehicle and place securely on jackstands to gain access specifications. Caution:

not re-use any of the

fluid

it

to the slave cylinder

Clutch hydraulic system - bleeding

Refer

2

bleeder screw, which

is

located next to the hydraulic

connection.

line inlet

4 Remove the dust cap (if equipped) which fits over the bleed screw. Place a box end wrench over the bleed screw and then push a length of plastic hose over the screw (see illustration). Place the other end of the hose into a clear container with about two inches of brake fluid. The hose end must be in the fluid at the bottom of the container. 5 Have an assistant depress the clutch pedal and hold it. Open the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder, allowing fluid to flow through the hose. Close the bleeder valve when your assistant signals that the clutch pedal is

at the

pedal.

bottom

of

its

travel.

Once closed, have your assistant release the

Chapter 8

8-7

Clutch and driveline

TABS

PIVOT

Terminal identification for the clutch/starter interlock switch

9.2

Continue this process until all air is evacuated from the system, indi6 cated by a full, solid stream of fluid being ejected from the bleeder valve

each time and no air bubbles in the hose or container. Keep a close watch on the fluid level inside the master cylinder; if the level drops too low, air will be sucked back into the system and the process will have to be started all over again. WIRING Clutch/starter interlock switch

9

HARNESS

- check and replacement

Check Refer

to illustration

9.2

Detach the electrical connector from the switch. Using an ohmmeter, probe the switch terminals for the correct switch 2 function as follows: a) Probe terminals 5 and 6 with an ohmmeter (see illustration). With the clutch pedal at rest, the meter should indicate infinity (open), but should indicate continuity when the pedal is depressed about two inches. b) When the meter leads are connected to terminals 3 and 4 the meter 1

should indicate continuity, but should read is depressed about two inches.

Probe terminals

c)

should indicate fails

and 2

with the

ohmmeter

when

leads.

is

full

for the clutch/starter interlock switch

the pedal

The meter

but should indicate continuity

depressed to about one inch from any of these tests, replace it.

clutch pedal

switch

1

infinity,

infinity

Mounting details

9.4

when

travel.

If

the

the

Replacement Refer

to illustration 9.4

Detach the electrical connector from the switch. 4 Pull down on the orientation clip and separate if from the tab on the switch (see illustration). 5 Rotate the switch half a turn to expose the plastic retainer. Push the tabs together, slide the retainer rearward and separate it 6 3

Removing the mounting

11.3

bolts for the cross brace in front

of the fuel tank

from the switch. 7

Remove

8

Installation is the

the switch from the pushrod.

wear.

up on the shaft

Lifting

will

also indicate

movement

in

the universal

reverse of removal. joints.

6

Finally,

they are 1

check the driveshaft mounting

bolts at the

ends to make sure

tight.

Driveshaft - inspection

Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Crawl under the vehicle and visually inspect the driveshaft. Look for any dents or cracks in the tubing. If any are found, the driveshaft must be 1

11

Driveshaft - removal and installation

2

replaced.

Check for any oil leakage at the front and rear of the driveshaft. Leakage where the driveshaft enters the transmission indicates a defective transmission rear seai. Leakage where the driveshaft enters the differen3

tial

indicates a defective pinion seal.

4

While under the vehicle, have an assistant turn the rear wheel so the As it does, make sure the universal joints are operating properly without binding, noise or looseness. The universal joints can also be checked with the driveshaft motion5 less, by gripping your hands on either side of the joint and attempting to twist the joint. Any movement at all in the joint is a sign of considerable driveshaft will rotate.

Refer

to illustrations 11.3, 11.9,

1

the fuel tank

If

approved

3 4 5 6 7 8

11.15

and 11.16

empty (or near empty), siphon the fuel into an Use a siphoning kit, available at most auto parts

not

fuel container.

DO NOT start the

siphoning action by mouth! Raise the rear of the vehicle an support it securely on jackstands. Remove the cross brace in front of the fuel tank (see illustration). Detach the exhaust pipe from the left hanger (see Chapter 4). Detach the exhaust pipe from the rear hanger.

stores.

2

is

Detach the tailpipe at the muffler. Lower the exhaust pipe and support

Remove

it

with wire or rope.

the heat shield for the fuel tank.

8 1 2 7

8-8

11.9

Clutch and driveline

Chapter 8

The driveshaft hoop is secured by two bolts (arrows)

11.15 Before detaching the driveshaft, always reference mark the driveshaft to

the

11.16

Lower the driveshaft and

pull

CAP

Remove the

hoop located

to the rear of the fuel tank

SNAP RING

BEARINGS

SPIDER driveshaft

to

companion flange SEAL

9

it

the rear

(see

illustration).

Remove the bolt retaining the fuel tank filler tube to the right frame rail.

1

Place a floor jack or transmission jack under the fuel tank. If a floor jack is used, place a wood block on the jack head to act as a cushion. Remove the support on the forward side of the fuel tank. 1 1

13 14

15

Detach the fuel tank support straps (see Chapter 4 necessary). Lower the fuel tank about six inches. Reference mark the driveshaft to the differential companion flange if

(see illustration). 16 Remove the bolts and separate the driveshaft from the differential companion flange (a 12-point socket or box end wrench will be necessary). Pull the driveshaft toward the rear to remove it (see illustration).

Wrap a

1

plastic

mission to prevent

bag

tightly

around the extension housing

vice station or machine shop

Be sure

to align the reference

marks made during removal.

1

2

to illustrations 12.2a, 12.2b, 12.4

and

12.9

Note: A press or large vise will be required for this procedure. It may be advisable to take the driveshaft to a local dealer service department, ser-

1

2.2b A pair of needle-nose pliers can be used to remove the universal joint

snap-rings

joint

components

where the universaljoints can be replaced for

you, normally at a reasonable charge. 1

Remove

2

Using a small pair

the driveshaft as outlined of pliers,

in

the previous Section.

remove the snap-rings from the spider

(see illustrations). Supporting the driveshaft, place it in position on a workbench 3 equipped with a vise. 4 Place a piece of pipe or a large socket with the same inside diameter over one of the bearing caps. Position a socket which is of slightly smaller

Universal joints - replacement

Refer

Exploded view of the universal

of the trans-

fluid loss.

Installation is the reverse of removal.

1

12.2a

diameter than the cap on the opposite bearing cap (see illustration) and use the vise or press to force the cap out (inside the pipe or large socket),

To press the universal joint out of the driveshaft yoke, set it up in a vise with the small socket pushing the joint and bearing cap into the large socket

1

2.4

If the snap-ring will not seat in the groove, strike the yoke with a brass hammer - this will relieve the tension that has set up in the yoke, and slightly spring the yoke ears (this should also be done if

12.9

the joint feels tight

when assembled)

3 5 7

1

Chapter 8

8-9

Clutch and driveline

REAR MOUNT

COMPANION FLANGE HOLDER T78P-485VA

13.3

Remove the

bolts retaining the

rear axle cover to the axle

Using an inch-pound torque wrench, of torque required to

13.10

mount

Hold the companion flange while removing the pinion nut

13.12

measure the amount

turn the pinion (pinion preload)

stopping just before large pliers to

it

comes completely

work the cap the

out of the yoke.

rest of the

way

Use

the vise or

out.

Transfer the sockets to the other side and press the opposite bearing 5 cap out in the same manner. Pack the new universal joint bearings with grease. Ordinarily, specific 6 instructions for lubrication will be included with the universal joint servicing kit and should be followed carefully. 7 Position the spider in the yoke and partially install one bearing cap in

2

Place a screw type jackstand

3

Remove

mount (see 4

Install

the bolts

and nuts

mount

5

Remove

cap and then partially install the other cap. Align the spider and press the bearing caps into position, being care-

8

Remove

damage

the dust seals.

Install

the snap-rings.

rings, strike the driveshaft

tration). 1

Install

overfill

11

the

Install

the grease joint,

this

and fill the joint with grease. Be

in this

careful not to

could blow out the grease seals.

the driveshaft, tightening the

torque listed

13

as

fitting

companion flange

bolts to the

Chapter's Specifications.

Differential pinion seal

- replacement

Removal Refer 1

to illustrations 13.3, 13.10, 13.12,

Raise the vehicle and support

13.14

the lower bolt hole and allow the

the driveshaft-to-companion flange bolts.

and allow it to rest on the driveshaft hoop.

the nuts retaining the carrier to the front mount.

To gain access to the companion flange, slowly lower the carrier. Using an inch-pound torque wrench and proper socket on the pinion nut (see illustration), measure the torque required to maintain rotation of the pinion through several revolutions. Write down this measurement for 9 1

If difficulty is encountered in seating the snapyoke sharply with a hammer. This will spring the yoke ears slightly and allow the snap-rings to seat in the groove (see illus-

9

in

Reference mark the driveshaft to the companion flange (see illustra-

Slide the driveshaft forward

not to

under the pinion nose.

tion 11.15).

7

ful

floor jack)

axle to pivot forward.

6

Start the spider into the bearing

a

illustration).

the bolt for the rear

the yoke.

8

(or

retaining the rear axle cover to the axle

it

13.14

and 13.17

using jack stands.

Pry between the metal flange of the pinion seal and the housing

later use. 1 Reference mark the companion flange to the pinion shaft so the companion flange can be reinstalled in the same position. 12 Using holding tool (T78P-4851-A) or equivalent, and a breaker bar

and socket, remove the pinion nut (see illustration). If this tool isn't available, install twc bolts into two adjacent holes in the companion flange and brace a large prybar across them to prevent the pinion from turning. 1 Remove the companion flange. 14 Wedge a screwdriver blade between the metal flange of the pinion seal and the housing (see illustration). 1 Pry up on the metal flange of the pinion seal. 16 Using locking pliers, grab the edge of the seal. 1 Hit the pliers with a hammer until the pinion seal is removed (see illustration).

13.17

Grab the edge to

of the seal

remove

it

and use a hammer

8

8-10

Chapter 8

Clutch and driveline symptom of halfshaft or CV joint failure is knocking or clicking noises when turning.

Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Inspect the CV joint boots for cracks, leaks and broken retaining bands. If lubricant leaks out through a hole or crack in the boot, the C V joint will wear prematurely and require replacement. Replace any damaged boots immediately (see Section 16). It's a good idea to disassemble, 2 3

CV joint whenever replacing a CV joint boot, ensure that the joint is not contaminated with moisture or dirt, which would cause premature CV joint failure. Check the entire length of each halfshaft to make sure they aren't 4 clean, inspect and repack the to

cracked, dented, twisted or bent.

5

CV

Grasp each joint

splines or loose

Install

the seal squarely or

it

will

to

CV joints.

a boot is damaged or loose, remove the halfshaft as described in Section 15. Disassemble and inspect the CV joint as outlined in Section 16. Note: Some auto parts stores carry "split" type replacement boots, which can be installed without removing the halfshaft from the vehicle. This is a convenient alternative; however, it's recommended that the halfshaft be removed and the CV joint disassembled and cleaned to ensure that the joint is free from contaminants such as moisture and dirt, which will 6

13.18

and rotate it in both directions while holding the check for excessive movement, indicating worn

halfshaft

housings

leak

If

accelerate

CV joint wear.

Installation Refer

to illustration 13.

18

Using seal installer (T79P-4676-A) or a section of pipe with an outside diameter slightly smallerthan that of the seal, drive the seal into place (see illustration). Note: Be sure not to cock the seal in the housing or you will

15

destroy the seal.

Removal

companion flange and pinion mating surfaces for burrs. Remove any found using emery cloth. 20 Using the reference marks made during removal, install the compan-

Refer

Halfshaft

- removal and

installation

1

19

Inspect the

on the pinion shaft. Install a new companion flange retaining

ion flange

21

flange retaining nut

in

nut.

Tighten the companion

small increments. Rotate the companion flange fre-

quently to seat the bearing. Without exceeding the value recorded during

removal, be sure that the

same

turning torque for the pinion preload

is

you exceed the specified preload a new collapsible spacer and pinion nut must be installed, a job that should be performed by a dealer service department or other repair shop, due to the special tools necessary. The pinion nut must not be backed off to obtain proper preload. reached. Note:

If

1

port

2

to illustrations 15.4, 15.5, 15.7a, 15.7b, 15.8a,

Loosen the rear wheel lug it securely on jackstands.

15.8b

and

nuts, raise the rear of the vehicle

15.9

and sup-

Remove the wheel. On models equipped

with rear disc brakes, remove the rear caliper and disc (see Chapter 9). 4 On all models, remove the rear hub nut (see illustration). 5 Remove the upper control arm nut and bolt (see illustration). 6 Use wire or rope to support the upper control arm. 7 With the lower arm in the relaxed position, reference mark the position of the lower control arm to the knuckle (see illustration). Caution Failure to mark this position will cause bushing "wind-up" on assembly and the wrong ride height. Remove the nut and bolt retaining the lower control

3

:

arm-to-knuckle (see illustration). Half shafts, Constant Velocity (CV) joints

14

The

1

halfshafts,

CV joints and

and whenever the vehicle

1

5.4

is

boots should be inspected periodically

raised for any reason.

Brace a pry bar across two studs hub from turning as the nut is loosened

to prevent the

and boots - check

The most common

15.5

8 With the hub nut removed, use a two-jaw puller to push the halfshaft out of the hub (see illustration). Allow the halfshaft to rest on the lower control arm Support the knuckle assembly with rope or wire (see illustra.

tion).

Removing the upper arm nut

control

15.7a

With the lower arm

in

the relaxed

mark the position of the lower control arm to the knuckle

position,

4 5 6

1

Chapter 8

15.7b

Remove

the nut and bolt arm to the

retaining the lower control

knuckle

15.9

15.8a

8-11

Clutch and driveline

Use a

push the

puller to

half shaft

1

5.8b

from the hub - on models with drum brakes a special attachment that fits over the studs will be necessary, or this method may be used if the drum is removed first

Pry the half shaft loose from the differential housing

1 5.1

Support the knuckle assembly with wire or rope

circlip on the inner CV joint stub shaft before reinstalling the halfshaft

Always replace the

2

CIRCLIP

DIFFERENTIAL SIDE

GEAR

Installation Refer 1

2

Do

12 and 15. 15 new circlip on the inner end of the halfshaft (see illustration).

to illustrations 15.

Install

not

a

bend or

twist the circlip.

13

Remove

1

Lightly lubricate the halfshaft splines

the plug from the differential housing.

the inner stub shaft with the splines 1

Push the

1

FULLY INSTALLEDWHEN IS

IS FELT TO SEAT IN THE DIFFERENTIAL SIDE GEAR.

CIRCLIP

feel the circlip

engage

reverse of removal.

new hub nuts, the remainder of installaBe sure to align the previously made match-

marks before tightening the lower control arm-to-knuckle bolts. Also, arm bolts to the torque listed in the Chap-

ter

16

10 Specifications.

Constant Velocity (CV)

Inner

joint

- boot replacement and overhaul

CV joint and boot

Pry the halfshaft loose from the differential (see illustration). Cau-

tion:

Disassembly

ing, the

Refer

Care must be taken not to damage the differential oil seal, the housCV joint boots or the anti-lock brake sensor ring (if equipped). 10 It's a good idea to replace the differential oil seal whenever the halfshaft is removed (see Section 17). 1

you

the differential side gecr (see illustration).

tighten the knuckle-to-control

15.15 The halfshaft is completely seated when the circlip on the shaft snaps into the groove in the differential side gear

9

in

With the exception of using

tion is the

GROOVE

and carefully align the splines of

the differential.

halfshaft into the differential until

with the groove

SHAFT

in

Insert

a plug or "balled-up" rag

lubricant loss.

into the differential

housing to prevent

to illustrations 16.2

and

16.3

With the half shaft removed (see Section 1 5), cut off the boot clamps and slide the boot towards the center of the halfshaft. Mark the tri-pot 1

housing and the shaft so it can be returned to housing off of the spider assembly.

slide the

its

original position,

then

8-12

16.2

Chapter 8

Snap-ring pliers should be used remove both the inner and outer

to

Clutch and driveline

If you wrap tape around the spider bearing assembly, it will make the job

16.3

much

retaining rings

16.8

Before installing the

CV

joint boot,

wrap the axle splines with tape prevent

easier

damage

to the

to

boot

STOP MING

16.9

When

reinstalling the spider bearing assembly, the

chamfered inner diameter must face

16.13

in

Equalize the pressure inside the boot by inserting a small screwdriver between the boot and the outer race

2 Mark the spider assembly to the shaft. Remove the spider assembly from the shaft by first removing the inner retaining ring (see illustration)

and

assembly back to expose the outer retaining ring. Remove the outer retaining ring and slide the joint off the shaft. 3 Use tape or a cloth wrapped around the spider bearing assembly to retain the bearings during removal and installation (see illustration). 4 Remove the spider assembly from the shaft. 5

sliding the spider

Slide the boot

off

the shaft.

Inspection Clean the old grease from the housing and spider assembly. Carefully disassemble each section of the spider assembly, one at a time, and clean 6

1

6.1

2

(towards the stop-ring)

16.14

Be sure the

half shaft is the proper length before installation

Securing the boot clamp with special pliers (available auto parts stores)

at

the needle bearings with solvent. Inspect the rollers, spider cross, bearings and housing for scoring, pitting or other signs of abnormal wear, which will

warrant the replacement of the inner

CV joint.

Reassembly Refer

to illustrations 16.8, 16.9, 16.12, 16.13,

and 16.14

Apply a coat of CV joint grease to the inner bearing surfaces to hold the needle bearings in place when reassembling the spider assembly. Pack the housing with half of the grease furnished with the new boot and place the remainder in the boot (total amount of grease used should be 9 ounces for vehicles without anti-lock brakes and 10 1/2 ounces for ve7

hicles with anti-lock brakes).

1 2 3 5 6 8 7 9

7

Chapter 8

8-13

Clutch and driveline

DIFFERENTIAL SEAL

DIFFERENTIAL

HOUSING

After the old grease has been rinsed away and the solvent has been blown out with compressed air, rotate the outer joint through its full range of motion and inspect the bearing surfaces for wear and damage - if any of the ball bearings, the race or the cage are damaged, replace the halfshaft and outer joint assembly

16.18

8

17.3

Removing the

differential carrier halfshaft seal

seal puller

and

slide

using a

hammer

Wrap the halfshaft splines with tape to avoid damaging the boot, then boot onto the shaft (see illustration).

slide the

the inner stop-ring onto the shaft. Install the spider assembly chamfer facing the stop-ring (see illustration). 10 Install a new circlip on the end of the shaft, slide the spider bearing against the circlip and seat the stop-ring in the groove.

9

Install

with the

the tri-pot housing.

1

Install

1

Position the boot on the housing

listed in this 1

and the

Chapter's Specifications

With the halfshaft set

shaft so the halfshaft length

obtained (see illustration).

is

proper length, release any

to the

air

pressure

in

the boot by inserting a blunt screwdriver between the boot and the housing

(see illustration). Don't damage the boot with the tool. 14 Install the boot clamps. A pair of special clamp-crimping pliers are

used

to tighten the

clamp. The pliers are available

at

most auto parts

stores (see illustration). 1 Work the CV joint through its extend and compress smoothly. 1

Install

the inner

Outer Refer 1

joint

the halfshaft (see Section

CV joint stub

range

1

5)

.

of travel.

The joint should fiex,

Be sure to install a new circlip on 17.6

shaft.

Drive the seal squarely into place

CV joint and boot

to illustration

2

16.18

Insert seal puller into the differential halfshaft bore (so the tangs

The outer CV joint is permanently retained to the connecting shaft and

the tool firmly grab the inside of the

be disassembled. Outer CV joints are serviced as assemblies only. boot replacement is necessary, check the CV joint condition. If the is reusable, clean thoroughly and repack with grease (see illus-

large prybar

can't 1

full

If

it

it

3

oil

seal).

If

on

this tool is not available,

a

can be used to pry the seals out. Connect a slide hammer to the seal puller and remove the seal (see

illustration).

tration).

Installation

To replace the boot, you must disassemble the inner joint and slide the boot off and on the inner end of the shaft. 20 Position the boot so the proper halfshaft length is obtained (see illus-

4

Lubricate the

tration 16.12).

5

Carefully align the seal with the housing bore.

1

21

With the halfshaft set to the proper length, release any

air

pressure

in

the boot by inserting a blunt screwdriver between the boot and the housing

(see illustration 16.13). Don't damage the boot with the tool. 22 Install the boot clamps. A pair of special clamp-crimping pliers are used to tighten the clamp. The pliers are available at most auto parts

Refer

to illustration 17.6 lip

of the seal with multi-purpose grease.

Using the proper driver or a socket, extension and a hammer, install seal (see illustration). Caution: If the seal becomes cocked in the bore during installation, remove it and install a new one. Install the halfshaft assembly (see Section 15). 7

6

the

oil

stores (see illustration 16.14).

18

17

Differential side oil seal

- replacement

Differential carrier

Refer 1

to illustration 17.3

Remove

the halfshaft assembly (see Section 15).

installation

Removal Refer

Removal

- removal and

to illustrations 18.6

and

18.

1

Remove

2

Reference mark the driveshaft

the right halfshaft (see Section

1

5)

in relation to

(see illustration 11.15). 3 Remove the driveshaft retaining

bolts.

the

companion flange

2 3 5

6 7 9

8-14

Clutch and driveline

Chapter 8

FRONT ATTACHING

NUTS AND BOLTS

REAR

MOUNT

REAR AXLE

1

Remove

8.6

the rear

mount from the

carrier cover

18.7

Remove

the front mounting bolts, nuts, bushings

and washers

4

Slide the driveshaft forward

5

With a jack supporting the

and

rest

it

differential

on the driveshaft hoop.

Specifications.

housing, remove the bolts re-

taining the rear mount.

6 7

Remove Remove

mount from the

the rear

cover (see illustration). nuts, bushings and washers (see

carrier

the front mounting bolts,

right

lower the housing. While lowering the housing,

Partially

Install

the rear mount to the housing cover.

1

Install

the bolts and nuts retaining the rear mount-to-crossmember.

18

Align the reference

Install

marks on the driveshaft and companion flange. them to the torque listed in this Chap-

the retaining bolts and tighten

ter's Specifications.

illustration).

8

1

and use a prybar

to

detach the

left

move

it

to the

1

Install

the right halfshaft (see Section

1

5).

halfshaft from the housing (see

The differential side seals should be replaced has been removed. plug (T89P-4850-B) or equivalent in the left side of the housing

illustration 15.9). Note:

whenever a 9

Install

halfshaft

and lower the assembly.

Installation Refer 1

11

to illustration 18.

15

Replace the side oil seals. Install a new circlip on the left halfshaft. Note: Do not bend or twist the

circlip. 1

Lubricate the

1

Position the carrier on a jack

left

halfshaft splines.

and

partially raise

shaft into the differential side gear. Note: ferential pilot bearing

14

Connect the Properly

the front

install

to align the left half-

and oil seal.

carrier to the front

halfshaft until the circlip seats 1

it

Be careful not to damage the dif-

in

mounting bolts and engage the

the differential side gear.

1

the bushings (see illustration), washers and nuts on

mount and

tighten

them

to the

torque

listed in this

POSITION BUSHINGS AS SHOWN

left

Chapter's

8.1

5

Install

the front bushings as

shown

3

Brakes

Chapter 9 Contents

Brake System (ABS) - general information system check disc - inspection, removal and installation fluid level check hoses and lines - inspection and replacement hydraulic system - bleeding light switch - removal and installation Front brake caliper - removal, overhaul and installation Front brake pads - replacement General information Brake Brake Brake Brake Brake Brake

Master cylinder- removal, overhaul and installation Parking brake - adjustment Parking brake cables - replacement Parking brake pedal - removal and installation Power brake booster - removal, installation and adjustment Rear brake caliper- removal and installation Rear brake pads - replacement Rear brake shoes - replacement

2

Anti-lock

See Chapter

1

5

See Chapter

1

11

12 17 4

Wheel

3

cylinder

1

Specifications

Brake

fluid

type

See Chapter

1

Disc brakes Front brake disc

Standard thickness

Minimum

1

thickness*

Front disc runout

limit

Front disc thickness variation (parallelism)

Rear brake disc Standard thickness

Minimum

*

.024

in

0.935 in 0.003 in 0.0005 in 0.945 0.900

thickness*

in in

Rear disc runout limit 0.003 in 0.0005 in Rear disc thickness variation (parallelism) Minimum brake pad thickness See Chapter Refer to marks stamped on the disc (they supercede information printed here)

1

Drum brakes Drum diameter 9.800 9.900

Standard

Maximum* *

Refer

to

marks cast

into the

drum

R-ibs 19 to 25

Front brake caliper locating pins bolt

Power brake booster nuts Wheel cylinder bolts Brake hose to caliper banjo bolt Rear backing plate to knuckle bolts

Wheel

lug nuts

in

(they supercede information printed here)

Torque specifications Rear brake caliper slider pin pinch Anchor plate retaining bolts Master cylinder-to-booster nuts

in

23 45

to to

13 to

26 65 25 25

1 3 to 9 to 1 30 to 40 45 to 60 See Chapter

1

- removal, overhaul and

installation

10 13 14 15 16

7 6 8 9

9-2

Brakes

Chapter 9

On models

against the drum.

Refer

which apply force the brake disc.

to illustration 1.3

vehicles covered by this manual are equipped with hydraulically op-

erated power assisted brake systems.

All front

type, while the rear brakes are either disc or

brake systems are disc

drum

type.

Some models are

equipped with an Anti-lock Brake System (ABS), which Section

is

described

in

2.

brakes are self-adjusting. The front and rear disc brakes automaticompensate for pad wear, while the rear drum brakes incorporate an adjustment mechanism which is activated as the brakes are applied when All

cally

the vehicle

is

driven

in

when

forward or reverse, not

the parking brake

is

applied. is a split design, meaning there are separate cirand rear brakes (see illustration). If one circuit fails, the other circuit will remain functional and a warning indicator will light up on the dashboard, showing that a failure has occurred.

The

to the caliper pistons,

in

le-

the caliper housings,

clamping the brake pads against

Precautions

General All

with rear disc brakes, the cables pull on

vers that are attached to screw-type actuators

General information

hydraulic system

cuits for the front

Master cylinder

until it's fixed.

The master cylinder brake booster, and

The removable

is

There are some general cautions and warnings involving the brake system on this vehicle: a) Use only brake fluid conforming to DOT 3 specifications. b) The brake pads and linings may contain asbestos fibers which are hazardous to your health if inhaled. Whenever you work on brake system components, clean all parts with brake system cleaner or denatured alcohol. Do not allow the fine dust to become airborne. c) Safety should be paramount whenever any servicing of the brake components is performed. Do not use parts or fasteners which are not in perfect condition, and be sure that all clearances and torque specifications are adhered to. If you are at all unsure about a certain procedure, seek professional advice. Upon completion of any brake system work, test the brakes carefully in a controlled area before putting the vehicle into normal service. If a problem is suspected in the brake system, don't drive the vehicle

is

located under the hood,

best recognized by the large

plastic reservoir

is

mounted fluid

power on top.

to the

reservoir

partitioned to prevent total fluid loss in

2

Anti-lock brake system (ABS)

- general information

the event of a front or rear brake hydraulic system failure.

The master cylinder is designed for the "split system" mentioned earliand has separate primary and secondary piston assemblies, the piston nearest the firewall being the primary piston, which applies hydraulic preser

Brake control valve The brake control valve is located in the master cylinder between the brake lines and the master cylinder body on base production models. The body.

It

assembly contains a proportioning valve

in

an aluminum

also contains a pressure switch.

The proportioning valve regulates the hydraulic pressure in the rear is located between the rear brake system's inlet and outlet

brake system. ports fluid

in

to illustrations 2.2,

The

2.3

and 2.5

optional anti-lock brake system

is

designed

to

maintain vehicle

and optimum deceleration under severe braking conditions and on most road surfaces. It does so by monitoring the rotational speed of each wheel and controlling the brake line pressure to each wheel during braking. This prevents the wheel from locking-up and steerability, directional stability

sure to the front brakes.

control valve

Refer

It

the control valve.

When the brake pedal is applied, the

rear brake

pressure passes through the proportioning valve to the rear brake until the valve's split point is reached. Above its split point, the pro-

maximum

provides

vehicle controllability.

Components Actuation assembly The actuation assembly consists of the master cylinder, an electric draulic

and a

fluid

reservoir (see illustration).

system

portioning valve begins to reduce the hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes thereby balancing the braking condition between the front and rear brakes. This condition will prevent the rear wheel from locking up and the

FLUID RESERVOIR FLUID LEVEL INDICATOR 5-PIN PLUG (CANNOT BE SEEN IN THIS VIEW)

vehicle from skidding out of control.

The brake control valve the valve,

it

is

not serviceable -

if

a problem develops with ACCUMULATOR

must be replaced as an assembly.

SOLENOID VALVE BLOCK PLUG

Parking brake

7-PIN

The parking brake mechanically operates the rear brakes only. On drum brake models the parking brake cables pull on a lever attached to the brake shoe assembly, causing the shoes to expand

PUMP MOTOR 4-PIN

SECONDARY RESERVOIR (REAR BRAKE SYSTEM)

PLUG

PRIMARY RESERVOIR (FRONT BRAKE SYSTEM) MECHANICAL STOP LIGHT SWITCH

r% J

BRAKE V PEDAL

WARNING LIGHT IGNITION

SWITCH

PRESSURE DIFFERENTIAL

CONTROL VALVE 1 .3

'

REAR DRUM BRAKES

MAIN VALVE 2-PIN

PLUG

ACTUATOR ASSY

4

&

Typical dual master cylinder brake system

hy-

pump and accumulator assembly, a solenoid valve body assembly

PRESSURE WARNING SWITCH PLUG

2.2

SOLENOID VALVE

BLOCK ASSY

5-PIN

Details of

ABS actuation assembly

Chapter 9

9-3

Brakes

CONNECTOR

SPEED INDICATOR RING

The

2.3

a)

The

electric

front sensors are attached to the spindles

pump provides hydraulic pressure to charge the accuThe pump

b)

SPEED

FLOORPAN

mulator, which supplies pressure to the braking system.

INDICATOR

and accumulator are mounted to the actuation assembly. The solenoid valve body assembly mounts to the side of the actuation assembly and modulates brake line pressure during ABS operation. The valve body contains three pairs of valves - one pair for each front wheel and a pair for the both of the rear wheels com-

RINGS

SUB-FRAME ASSY SUB-FRAME ASSY

bined.

HALFSHAFT ASSY

Wheel sensors These sensors are located at each wheel and generate small electrical pulsations

when

the toothed sensor rings are turning, sending a signal to

the electronic controller indicating wheel rotational speed (see illustra-

CLIP

tion).

The front wheel sensors are mounted to the front spindles in close relationship to the toothed sensor rings, which are pressed into the inside of

BOLT

SENSOR ASSY

the rotors.

The

The sensor

illustration).

rings are

REAR SENSORS

pressed onto the axle shafts.

Electronic controller

The

2.5

mounted on a package tray in the luggage compartment and is the "brain" for the ABS system. The function of the control module - consisting primarily of two microprocessors and the related circuits needed for their operation - is to accept and process information received from the wheel speed sensors to control the hydraulic line pressure, avoiding wheel lock-up. The controller also constantly monitors the system, even under normal driving conditions, to find faults within the electronic controller

If a problem develops within the system, an amber "Check Anti-lock Brakes" and/or the "Brake" light will glow on the dashboard. A diagnostic

will

also be stored will

in

rear sensors are attached to the axle housing

the controller, which,

when

indicate the problem area or

retrieved by a ser-

Check the Check the

c)

d)

electrical

connectors at the actuation assembly.

fuses.

Follow the wiring harness to each wheel and check that all connec-

e)

tions are secure If

vice technician,

The

is

system.

code

BOLT

rear wheel sensors bolt to the rear disc brake axle adapters (see

and

that the wiring

is

not

damaged.

the above preliminary checks do not rectify the problem, the vehicle

should be diagnosed by a dealer service department. Due to the rather complex nature of this system, all actual repair work must be done by a dealer.

component. 3

Front brake pads - replacement

Diagnosis and repair a dashboard warning light comes on and stays on while the vehicle ABS system requires attention. Although a special electronic ABS diagnostic tester is necessary to properly diagnose the system, the home mechanic can perform a few preliminary checks before taking the vehicle to a dealer who is equipped with If

is in

operation, the

this tester.

Refer

to illustrations

3.5

and 3.6a through 3.6h

Warning: Disc brake pads must be replaced on both front wheels at the same time - never replace the pads on only one wheel. Also, the dust created by the brake system may contains asbestos, which is harmful to your health. Never blow it out with compressed air and don inhale any of A n appro ved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. Do not, under any circumstances, use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts. Use brake cleaner or denatured alcohol only! 't

it.

a)

Check

b)

Open

the brake fluid level

the trunk

Check nected.

lid

in

the reservoir.

and remove the lower

that the controller electrical

right side

connector

is

module panel. securely con-

Note: When servicing the disc brakes, use only high quality, nationally recognized brand name pads.

9-4

Chapter 9

Using a large C-clamp, push the piston back into the caliper bore just enough to allow the caliper to slide off 3.5

the brake disc easily - note that one end of the clamp is on the flat area on the inner side of the caliper and the other

end (screw end)

is

Brakes

3.6a Remove the two caliper locating pins (arrows) that hold the caliper to the spindle (this will require a T-40 Torx socket), then lift the caliper from the spindle

3.6b

Using a C-clamp and a block wood, bottom the piston in the

3.6e

Pull the inner

brake pad out of the

caliper piston

pressing on

the outer pad

3.6c

Pry the outer brake pad off the - note how it fits into the frame as this is done

caliper frame

3.6f

To

install

new pads in the push the inner pad

the

caliper, carefully

retaining clips straight into the piston until the backing plate rests on the

piston face - slide the outer pad into the caliper as shown (be sure the locating lugs on the pad [1] seat in the holes in the caliper frame [2], if equipped)

3.6d

of

caliper bore

installed in the correct positions

3.6g Position the anti-rattle spring on the outer pad (1) under the arm of the spindle, with the notches in the

The brake pads are marked for left and right sides - be sure they are

edges

of

the pads engaging with the arm of the spindle (2), then rotate the caliper assembly over the disc

3.6h

Apply silicone grease to the and install the pins,

caliper locating pins

tightening

them

to the torque listed in

this Chapter's Specifications

Chapter 9

9-5

Brakes

CALIPER ASSY

PISTON SEAL PISTON

DUST BOOT

INSULATOR

APPLY SILICONE GREASE TO THE LOCATING PINS AND INSIDE OF INSULATORS

4.6a

With the caliper padded to catch the piston, use compressed force the piston out of its bore - make sure your hands or fingers are not between the piston and caliper!

4.5

Exploded view

LOCATING

PIN

of the front brake caliper

components

air to

Remove

1

the cover from the brake fluid reservoir.

Loosen the wheel lug securely on jackstands. 2

and support it

Remove the front wheels. Work on one brake assembly at a time,

3

ing the

4 is

nuts, raise the front of the vehicle

assembled brake

for

reference

if

Inspect the brake disc carefully as outlined

necessary, follow the information

us-

necessary.

in that

in

Section

5.

If

machining

Section to remove the disc, at

which time the pads can be removed from the caliper as well. Push the piston back into its bore using a large C-clamp (see illustra5 tion). As the piston is depressed to the bottom of the caliper bore, the fluid in the master cylinder will rise. Make sure that it doesn't overflow. If necessary, siphon off some of the fluid. Follow the accompanying photos, beginning with illustration 3.6a, for 6 the actual pad replacement procedure. Be sure to stay in order and read the caption under each illustration. 7 When reinstalling the caliper, be sure to tighten the locating pins to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. After the job has been completed, firmly depress the brake pedal a few times to bring the pads into contact with the disc.

4.6b

Remove

the dust boot from the caliper bore groove

Front brake caliper - removal, overhaul and installation

4

contamination. Note:

If the

caliper will not be completely removed from the

vehicle- as for pad inspection or disc removal - leave the hose connected

Warning: Dust created by the brake system contains asbestos, which is harmful to your health. Never blow it out with compressed air and don inhale any of An approved filtering mask should be worn when workingon the brakes. Do not, under any circumstances, use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts. Use brake cleaner or denatured alcohol only! 't

it.

Note all

:

If

an o verhaul is indicated (usually because of fluid leakage) explore

options before beginning the job.

available

on an exchange

New and factory-rebuilt calipers are

basis, which

makes

this

job quite easy.

If it is

decided to rebuild the calipers, make sure that a rebuild kit is available before proceeding. Always rebuild the calipers in pairs- never rebuildjust one of them.

Removal 1

Apply the parking brake and block the rear wheels. Loosen the wheel and support it securely on jack-

lug nuts, raise the front of the vehicle

stands.

2 per.

Remove

the wheel.

Unscrew the brake hose banjo bolt and detach the hose from the caliWrap a plastic bag around the end of the hose to prevent fluid loss and

and suspend the caliper with a

length of wire. This

will

save the trouble of

bleeding the brake system.

3

Refer to the first few steps

spindle

-

it's

part of the brake

in

Section 3 to separate the caliper from the

pad replacement procedure.

Overhaul Refer

to illustrations 4.5, 4.6a, 4.6b, 4.7, 4.12, 4.14, 4.17, 4.18, 4.19a,

4.19b, 4.20

and 4.21

Clean the exterior of the caliper with brake cleaner or denatured alcohol. Never use gasoline, kerosene or petroleum-based cleaning solvents. Place the caliper on a clean workbench. 5 Position a wood block in the center of the caliper as a cushion, then use compressed air to remove the piston from the caliper (see illustration). Use only enough air to ease the piston out of the bore. If the piston is blown out, even with the cushion in place, it may be damaged. Warning: Never place your fingers in front of the piston in an attempt to catch or protect it when applying compressed air, as serious injury could occur. 6 Pull the dust boot out of the caliper bore (see illustrations). 4

1 2 6 8 7

9-6

4.7

Brakes

Chapter 9

The piston seal should be removed with a plastic or wooden tool to avoid damage to the bore and seal groove (a pencil will do the job)

4.12

Grab the ends

of the locating pin insulators and, using a

twisting motion,

push them through the caliper ears

FLANGES MUST BE LOCATED AS

SHOWN WHEN PROPERLY INSTALLED

4.14

Push the new insulators through the holes in the making sure they are installed all the way

caliper ears,

Push the new

4.17

check

Check

9

cloth

is

to

seal into the groove with your fingers, then

see that

the caliper bore

in

permissible to remove

it

isn't

twisted or kinked

a similar way. Light polishing with crocus light

corrosion and stains.

1

Remove

1

Inspect the caliper locating pins for corrosion and

the bleeder valve and rubber cap.

new ones necessary. Remove the caliper locating pin

them 1

with

damage. Replace

if

insulators from the caliper ears (see

illustration).

13 Use clean brake fluid or denatured alcohol to clean all the parts. Warning: Do not, under any circumstances, use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts. Allow all parts to dry, preferably using compressed air to blow out all passages. Make sure the compressed air is filtered, as a harmful lubricant residue or moisture may be present in unaltered systems.

Push the new locating pin insulators into place (see illustration). Check the fit of the piston in the bore by sliding into the caliper. The piston should move easily. 14

4.18

Install

the dust boot

in

making sure

the upper groove in the caliper bore, it's

completely seated

1

1

5

it

Thread the bleeder valve into the caliper and tighten

it

securely. Install

the rubber cap.

Using a wood or plastic tool, remove the piston seal from the caliper bore (see illustration). Metal tools may cause bore damage. 7

8

Carefully

examine the piston damage.

corrosion or any signs of

must be replaced.

for nicks, burrs, cracks, loss of plating, If

surface defects are present, the parts

1

new piston

Lubricate the

Position the seal

in

seal

and

caliper bore with clean brake

the caliper bore groove, making sure

it

fluid.

doesn't twist

(see illustration). 1 Fit the new dust boot in the caliper bore upper groove, making sure it's seated (see illustration).

9

7

.

Chapter 9

9-7

Brakes

J

^JES^

4.19a Lubricate the piston and bore with clean brake fluid, insert the piston into the dust boot (NOT the bore) at an

4.19b

.

.

.

and push

-^^1

Use a C-clamp and a block of bottom the piston in the caliper bore - make sure it goes in perfectly

straight into the

it

caliper as far as possible

4.20

wood

by hand

angle, then, using a rotating motion, work the piston completely into the

dust boot

4.21

1

Install

the

.

straight, or the sides of the piston

be damaged, rendering

of the dust boot the caliper piston

in

Lubricate the caliper piston with clean brake

the caliper, using a turning motion to

roll

the

Push the piston

lip

fluid.

Push the piston into

of the dust boot

into the caliper

by hand as

far

Using a C-clamp and a block of wood, push the piston all the way to Work slowly, keeping an eye on the side of the piston, making sure it enters the bore perfectly straight with no resistance (see illustration).

20

lip

of the

dust boot

in

5

Brake disc - inspection, removal and installation

over the

the bottom of the bore.

Seat the

the groove on the piston (see illustra-

Inspection Refer

to illustrations 5.5a, 5.5b, 5.6a,

1

2

let

Installation Refer to Section 3 for the caliper installation procedure, as the brake pad replacement procedure.

it

is

part of

Connect the brake hose to the caliper, using new sealing washers. Tighten the banjo bolt to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. 24 Bleed the brakes as outlined in Section 1 2. This is not necessary if the banjo bolt was not loosened or removed. 23

25

Install

26

the wheel and lower the vehicle. Tighten the lug nuts to the

listed in

the Chapter

1

Specifications.

Test the operation of the brakes before placing the vehicle into normal

service.

5.

Loosen the wheel

lug nuts, raise the vehicle

Remove the wheel. Remove the brake caliper as outlined in

and support it securely on

jackstands.

It's

Section 4

(front) or

Section 7

not necessary to disconnect the brake hose. After removing the

caliper bolts,

22

5.6b and

Note: This procedure applies to both front and rear disc brake assemblies.

(rear).

tion).

torque

may

useless

5.5a Use a dial indicator to check disc runout - if the reading exceeds the maximum allowable runout limit, the rotor will have to be machined or replaced

the groove on

as possible.

21

it

.

lip

piston (see illustrations).

to

suspend the caliper out of the way with a piece of wire. Don't

the caliper hang by the hose and don't stretch or twist the hose.

two lug nuts to hold the disc against the hub. check the disc surface for score marks and other damage. Light scratches and shallow grooves are normal after use and may not always be detrimental to brake operation, but deep score marks - over 0.015-inch (0.38 mm) - require disc removal and refinishing by an automotive machine shop. Be sure to check both sides of the disc. If pulsating has been noticed during application of the brakes, suspect disc runout. To check disc runout, place a dial indicator at a point about 1/2-inch 5 from the outer edge of the disc (see illustration). Set the indicator to zero and turn the disc. The indicator reading should not exceed the specified allowable runout limit. If does, the disc should be refinished by an auto 3

Reinstall

4

Visually

it

9-8

Using a swirling motion, remove the glaze from the disc surface with emery cloth or sandpaper

5.5b

5.6b

Brakes

Chapter 9

Use a micrometer

to

measure disc

5.7

Lift

The minimum thickness

5.6a

limit is

cast into the inside

of the disc

the disc off the

hub assembly

6.2

thickness at several points near the edge

FRONT

The brake hose bracket is located near the shock absorber

-zzzzz PINCH BOLT

PARKING BRAKE LEVER

SLIDER PIN

HEX HEAD

CABLE END 6.4 6.3

Using a pair of pliers, disconnect the parking brake cable from the parking brake lever on the caliper

motive machine shop. Note: Professionals recommend resurfacing of brake discs regardless of the dial indicator reading (to produce a smooth,

head

Place an open end wrench on the slider pin hex it from turning, then remove the upper caliper pinch bolt

to prevent

cast into the inside of the disc (see illustration).

checked with a micrometer (see

flat surface that will eliminate brake pedal pulsations and other undesirable symptoms related to questionable discs). At the very least, if you elect not to have the discs resurfaced, deglaze the brake pad surface with

7

Remove the

emery cloth or sandpaper (use a swirling motion to ensure a non-direction-

and

lift

al finish)

Removal the disc

lug nuts that are temporarily holding the disc to the

off

(see illustration).

(see illustration).

The disc must not be machined to a thickness less than the specified minimum refinish thickness. The minimum wear (or discard) thickness is

6

The disc thickness can be

illustration).

Installation 8

Install

the disc onto the hub assembly.

hub

7

1 2

Chapter 9

9-9

Brakes

NIB

After the piston has been bottomed in the caliper, it may have to be turned the other way slightly to align a slot in the piston with the nib on the brake pad backing plate

6.7

upper pinch bolt removed, swing the caliper back to gain access to the brake pads

6.5 With the

Install the caliper and brake pad assembly over the disc and position it 9 on the knuckle assembly (refer to Section 4 for the front caliper installation procedure) or on the anchor plate assembly (refer to Section 7 for the rear

7

Rear brake caliper - removal and

installation

,

brake caliper installation procedure,

if

necessary). Tighten the caliper

bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications.

10 Install the wheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground. Depress the brake pedal a few times to bring the brake pads into contact with the rotor. Bleeding of the system will not be necessary unless the brake hose was disconnected from the caliper. Check the operation of the brakes carefully

Note: Due to the relatively complex design of the rear brake caliper/parking brake actuator assembly, all service procedures requiring disassembly and reassembly should be left to a professional mechanic. The home mechanic can, however, remove the caliper and take it to a repair shop or Ford dealer service department for repair, thereby saving the cost of re-

moval and installation.

before placing the vehicle into normal service.

Removal 1

6

Refer to the

to partially

Rear brake pads - replacement

first

few steps

remove the

of the previous Section,

caliper to

remove the

as

it

is

necessary

rear brake pads.

Remove

the lower slider pin pinch bolt. Disconnect the brake hose from the caliper. Wrap a plastic bag tightly around the end of the hose to prevent fluid loss and contamination. If the caliper is being removed for access to other components only, removing

2 3

Refer 1

to illustrations 6.2, 6.3, 6.4,

vehicle

2

6.5

and

6.

Blockthefrontwheels. Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the rear of the

and support

Remove

it

securely on jackstands.

Remove

the wheel.

the brake hose bracket-to-shock absorber bracket screw

(see illustration). 3

Remove the

parking brake cable retaining

pair of pliers, disconnect the cable

clip at

way

with a piece of wire.

4

Lift

the caliper

If

away from

this is the

case, hang the caliper out of the

the anchor plate.

the caliper. Using a

end from the parking brake

lever (see

Installation Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Follow the procedure outlined in Section 6 to ensure correct installation of the caliper over the brake pads. Bleed the brakes as outlined in Section 12. 6

5

illustration).

Hold the hex head portion of the caliper upper slider pin with an open end wrench to prevent it from turning, then remove the upper pinch bolt 4

(see illustration). 5

the hose won't be necessary.

Rotate the top of the caliper

away from the brake disc to gain access

brake pads (see illustration). Lift the brake pads from the anchor plate. 6 7 Using a pair of needle-nose pliers, engage the tips of the pliers in the two slots in the caliper piston face. Turn the piston clockwise until it is completely seated in the caliper. Position the piston in such a way that one of the slots will be aligned with the locating nib on the brake pad when the to the

(see illustration). brake pads into the anchor plate. Swing the caliper into position, making sure the nib on the pad

caliper

8

9

is

installed

Insert the

meshes 10

with a slot in the caliper piston. Apply Loctite to the threads of the pinch

the caliper

and

listed in this 1

into the slider pin.

bolt. Insert

the bolt through

Tighten both pinch bolts to the torque

Chapter's Specifications.

Connect the parking brake cable to the

lever.

Attach the cable retain-

ing clip to the caliper. 1

Install

the brake hose bracket screw.

13

Install

the wheel, lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts to the

in the Chapter 1 Specifications. Depress the brake pedal a few times to bring the pads into contact with the rotor. Bleeding of the system will not be necessary unless the hose

torque listed

14

was disconnected from

the caliper.

Check the operation

carefully before placing the vehicle into

normal service.

of the

brakes

8

Rear brake shoes - replacement

Refer

to illustrations

8.4a through 8.4s

and 8.5

Warning: Drum brake shoes must be replaced on both wheels at the same time - never replace the shoes on only one wheel. Also, the dust created by the brake system contains asbestos, which is harmful to your An health. Never blow it out with compressed air and don inhale any of approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. Do not, under any circumstances, use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts. Use brake cleaner or denatured alcohol only! 't

it.

Caution: Whenever the brake shoes are replaced, the retractor and holddown springs should also be replaced. Due to the continuous heating/ cooling cycle that the springs are subjected to, they lose their tension over a period of time and may allow the shoes to drag on the drum and wear at a much faster rate than normal. When replacing the rear brake shoes, use only high quality nationally recognized brand-name parts. 1

Loosen the wheel

lug nuts, raise the rear of the vehicle

and support it

securely on jackstands. Block the front wheels to keep the vehicle from rolling.

2

Release the parking brake.

9-10 3

Remove the wheel. Note: All four rear brake shoes must be replaced same time, but to avoid mixing up parts, work on only one brake as-

at the

sembly at a 4

Brakes

Chapter 9 7 8

Mount the wheel, install the lug nuts, then lower the vehicle. Make a number of forward and reverse stops to adjust the brakes until

satisfactory pedal action

time.

is

obtained.

Follow the accompanying photos (illustrations 8.4a through 8.4s) for

the inspection and replacement of the brake shoes.

Be sure

to stay in or-

der and read the caption under each illustration. Note: If the brake drum cannot be easily pulled off, pry the rubber plug from the backing plate inspection hole and insert a screwdriver or brake tool to rotate the adjusting

RUBBER PLUG REMOVED

screw and move the adjusting lever. This will cause the brake shoes to pull together. Spray the assembly with penetrating oil and allow the oil to soak in if the mechanism is difficult to turn. The drum should now come off. should be checked for cracks, score Before reinstalling the drum 5 marks, deep scratches and hard spots, which will appear as small discolored areas. If the hard spots cannot be removed with fine emery cloth or if any of the other conditions listed above exist, the drum must be taken to an automotive machine shop to have it turned. Note: Professionals recommend resurfacing the drums whenever a brake job is done. Resurfacing will eliminate the possibility of out-of-round drums. If the drums are worn so much that they can be resurfaced without exceeding the maximum allowable diameter (stamped into the drum), then new ones will be required (see illustration). At the very least, if you elect not to have the drums resurfaced, remove the glazing from the surface with medium -grit emery

ADJUSTMENT LEVER

it

ADJUSTER

't

cloth using

6

Install

a swirling motion. drum on the hub.

8.4a

the brake

^ SPRING rknnUL

EXPANDER

WHEEL CYLINDER

View of the inspection hole from behind the backing plate

BRAKE LINING

SHOE ADJUSTMENT ACCESS HOLE

INSPECTION

WHEEL CYLINDER ATTACHING

SCREW

ACCESS HOLE

ACCESS HOLE COVER

LEADING SHOE

SHOE HOLD-

AND LINING

DOWN

PIN

PARKING BRAKE LEVER PIN

BACKING PLATE ASSY PARKING BRAKE LEVER PIN

TRAILING SHOE AND LINING

SHOE HOLD-DOWN SPRING ASSY

PARKING BRAKE LEVER

8.4b

Exploded view of the drum brake components

(left

side shown)

.

Chapter 9

8.4c

Before removing anything, clean

the brake assembly with brake cleaner

Use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the adjuster spring from the

8.4d

and allow it to dry - position a drain pan under the brake to catch the residue DO NOT USE COMPRESSED AIR TO BLOW THE DUST FROM THE PARTS!

8.4f

Remove the

adjuster screw

8.4i

.

.

.

then remove the lower

shoe

8.4e

Remove the adjuster lever by it back and away from the

pulling

alignment pin

adjuster lever

8.4g

Remove

the hold-down spring and

pin from the leading

retracting spring from the brake

9-11

Brakes

8.4j

Remove the hold-down pin from the trailing

8.4h

spring and

shoe

Lift

the leading shoe from the

backing plate

shoe

.

.

Use pliers to pull back the spring on the parking brake cable and remove the parking brake lever and the brake shoe from the vehicle

8.4k

9-12

8.4I

Chapter 9

Lubricate the brake shoe contact areas with high

Brakes

8.4m

Remove the

temperature grease

8.4n

shoe with a new one, install the the trailing brake shoe using a new clip on

After replacing the old

parking brake lever to

parking brake lever from the brake shoe by

forcing the clip off the clevis pin

8.4o With a pair of pliers, pull the spring on the parking brake cable back to make room for the parking brake lever - install the trailing

shoe assembly

the clevis pin WIDE SLOT (ON SHOE)

NARROW

\

SLOT (ON ADJUSTER LEVER)

ADJUSTER

SCREW ASSY

TRAILING

SHOE AND LINING

\

/

.

VajS

JKf*

^*s.

\

O^O^A

PARKING

BRAKE

NOTE: SOCKET BLADE HARKED R ANO L INSTALL LETTER IN UPRIGHT POSITION FACING WHEEL CYUNDER TO ENSURE PROPER SLOT TO ADJUSTER LEVER.

8.4q

the lower retracting spring to both shoes and spread the brake shoes over the guide slots of the 8.4p

Install

wheel cylinder pistons

Install

brake shoes -

the adjuster assembly to the slots in the or L

make sure the socket blade marked R

is installed with the letters in the upright position to coincide with the proper slots in the brake shoe and the parking brake lever

Chapter 9

PARKING BRAKE LEVER PIN

LINING ASSY

8.4r

Install

8.4s Use a special tool or a screwdriver to install the upper retracting spring to the adjuster lever, then install the hold-down springs and pins - check to make sure the star wheel contacts the adjuster lever, and also wiggle the brake shoe assembly back and forth to make sure it's centered on the backing plate

the adjuster lever over the anchor pin, then the hold-down springs and pins

install

9

Wheel cylinder - removal, overhaul and

9-13

Brakes

4

installation

Disconnect the brake line (see illustration). Don't pull the brake line the wheel cylinder. Remove the wheel cylinder mounting bolts. 5 Detach the wheel cylinder from the brake backing plate and place it on 6 a clean workbench. Immediately plug the brake line to prevent fluid loss

away from

Note:

If

an overhaul is indicated (usually because of fluid leakage or sticky all options before beginning the job. New wheel cylin-

operation) explore

ders are available, which makes the wheel cylinder, ing.

this job quite easy.

If it 's

decided to rebuild

make sure that a rebuild kit is available before proceed-

Ne ver o verhaul only one wheel cylinder - always rebuild both of them

at the

same

and contamination.

Overhaul

time.

Refer

to illustration

9.7

Remove the bleeder screw, cups, pistons, boots and spring assembly

Removal

7

Refer

from the wheel cylinder body (see illustration). Clean the wheel cylinder with brake fluid, denatured alcohol or brake 8

1

to illustration 9.4

Raise the rear of the vehicle and support

it

Block the front wheels to keep the vehicle from

2 3

8.5

securely on jackstands. rolling.

Remove the brake shoe assembly (see Section 8). Remove all dirt and foreign material from around the wheel

The maximum permissible diameter specification the brake

BOOT

is

cylinder.

cast into

drum

system cleaner. Warning: Do not, under any circumstances, use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts! 9 Use compressed air to remove excess fluid from the wheel cylinder and to blow out the passages.

9.4

Disconnect the brake line fitting (A), then remove the two wheel cylinder bolts (B)

CUP

BOOT

PISTON

PISTON

RETURN SPRING AND CUP EXPANDER ASSY 9.7

CYLINDER HOUSING

Exploded view of the rear wheel cylinder

4 1 5

1

9-14

Brakes

Chapter 9

Removal Refer

to illustration 10.2

1 Place rags under the brake line fittings and prepare caps or plastic bags to cover the ends of the lines once they are disconnected. Caution: Brake fluid will damage paint. Cover all body parts and be careful not to

spill fluid

2

during

this

procedure.

Unscrew the tube nuts at the ends of the brake

nut wrench, which

wraps around the

lines

where they enter

off

the flats on these nuts, a flare-

fitting,

should be used (see illustra-

the master cylinder. To prevent rounding

tion).

3

brake lines away from the master cylinder

Pull the

slightly

and plug

the ends to prevent contamination.

4 Disconnect the brake warning light electrical connector, remove the two master cylinder mounting nuts, and detach the master cylinder from the vehicle.

5

Remove the reservoir cap, then discard any fluid remaining in the res-

ervoir.

10.2 Disconnect the electrical connector (A), unscrew the hydraulic fitting tube nuts (B) then remove the two mounting nuts (C) and detach the master cylinder 1 Check the cylinder bore for corrosion and score marks. Crocus cloth can be used to remove light corrosion and stains, but the cylinder must be replaced with a new one if the defects cannot be removed easily, or if the

bore 1

12 face

is

Overhaul Refer 6

to illustrations 10.7a, 10.7b, 10.8, 10.9, 10.10,

10.14

and 10.19

Mount the master cylinder in a vise with the vise jaws clamping on the

mounting flange. 7

Remove

the primary piston snap-ring by depressing the piston and

extracting the ring with a pair of snap-ring pliers, (see illustrations).

scored.

new cups with brake fluid. Assemble the brake cylinder components. Make sure the cup

8

Lubricate the

lips

Remove the

primary piston assembly from the cylinder bore (see

Remove the secondary piston assembly from the cylinder bore. may be necessary to remove the master cylinder from the vise and invert carefully tapping against a block of wood to expel the piston (see illus-

9 in.

Installation

It

it,

13

Place the wheel cylinder

1

Connect the brake

1

Bleed the brakes (see Section

line

in

and

position install 1

and

install

il-

lustration).

it

tration).

the bolts.

1 If fluid has been leaking past the reservoir grommets, pry the reservoir from the cylinder body with a screwdriver (see illustration). Remove the

the brake shoe assembly.

2).

grommets. 1

10

Master cylinder - removal, overhaul and installation

or

Inspect the cylinder bore for corrosion and

damage

is

damage.

If

any corrosion

found, replace the master cylinder body with a

new one, as

abrasives cannot be used on the bore. If the vehicle is equipped with an Anti-Lock Brake (ABS) System, have the master cylinder rebuilt at a dealership service department. Also, before deciding to overhaul the master cylinder, check on the availability andcostofa new or factory rebuilt unit and also the availability of a rebuild

Note:

kit.

MASTER CYLINDER BODY

12

Lubricate the

new

reservoir

grommets

press them into the master cylinder body.

with silicone lubricant

Make

seated.

13 Lay the reservoir on a hard surface and press the master cylinder body onto the reservoir, using a rocking motion.

RESERVOIR AND FLOAT ASSY

CAP AND GASKET ASSY

SNAP RING 10.7a

Exploded view of the master cylinder

and

sure they're properly

SECONDARY PISTON ASSY

PRIMARY PISTON ASSY

6 4 5 8 9

Chapter 9

Use a Phillips head screwdriver push the primary piston into the cylinder, then remove the snap-ring

10.7b to

10.8

Remove

9-15

Brakes

the primary piston

10.9

assembly from the cylinder

10.10 If you must remove the fluid reservoir (to replace leaking seals or a broken reservoir), gently pry it off with a screwdriver

10.14

Tap the master cylinder against a wood to eject the secondary piston assembly

block of

Coat the secondary piston with clean brake fluid and it in the master cylinder, spring end first

install

or prybar

1

Lubricate the cylinder bore and primary and secondary piston assem-

blies with clean

brake

fluid. Insert

the secondary piston assembly into the

cylinder (see illustration). 1

Install

install

the primary piston assembly

in

the cylinder bore, depress

it

and

the snap-ring.

1 Inspect the reservoir cap and diaphragm for cracks and deformation. Replace any damaged parts with new ones and attach the diaphragm to

the cap.

17

Note: Whenever the master cylinder

is

removed, the complete hy-

must be bled. The time required to bleed the system can be reduced if the master cylinder is filled with fluid and bench bled (refer to Steps 18 through 23) before the master cylinder is installed on the vehicle. draulic system

1

Insert

threaded plugs

of the correct size into the cylinder outlet holes

and fill the reservoirs with brake fluid. The master cylinder should be supported in such a manner that brake fluid will not spill during the bench

PLUGS

bleeding procedure.

REAR BRAKE OUTLET PORT

Loosen one plug at a time, starting with the rear outlet port first, and push the piston assembly into the bore to force air from the master cylinder (see illustration). To prevent air from being drawn back into the cylinder, the appropriate plug must be replaced before allowing the piston to return

10.19

1

to

20 air

its

original position.

Stroke the piston three or four times for each outlet to ensure that

has been expelled.

all

When bench

bleeding the master cylinder, start with the rear brake outlet port

3 4 5 1 2

9-16

Brakes

Chapter 9

Since high pressure is not involved in the bench bleeding procedure, to the removal and replacement of the plugs with each stroke of the piston assembly is available. Before pushing in on the piston assembly, remove one of the plugs completely. Before releasing the

Without twisting the hose, connect the other end of the install the bolt, but leave it a little loose for now.

21

6

an alternative

chassis and

Connect the brake

7

fitting

8

from being drawn back into the master cylinder. Wait several seconds for the brake fluid to be drawn from the reservoir to the piston bore, then repeat the procedure. When you push down on the

kinks

piston pelled.

it

will

air

off

the hole, allowing the air inside to be ex-

fluid is

being ejected from the hole, replace the

force your finger

When

only brake

plug and go on to the other port.

22

Refill

in

pension. sitions.

the brake hose installation

the hose.

If

is

complete, there should be no

Make sure the hose doesn't contact any part of the sus-

Check this by turning the wheels to the extreme left and right pothe hose makes contact, remove and correct the installation as it

necessary.

Metal brake line

the master cylinder reservoirs and

install

the diaphragm and cap

assembly.

Installation 23

line to the fitting block by hand, then tighten the securely using a flare nut wrench. Tighten the bracket bolt securely.

When

piston, however, instead of replacing the plug, simply put yourfingertightly

over the hole to keep

the

line to

Carefully install the master cylinder by reversing the removal steps,

then bleed the brakes (refer to Section 12).

When replacing brake lines be sure to use the correct parts. Don't use copper tubing for any brake system components. Purchase steel brake lines from a dealer or auto parts store. 1 Prefabricated brake line, with the tube ends already flared and fittings installed, is available at auto parts stores and dealers. These lines are also bent to the proper shapes. 9

1

If

prefabricated lines are not available, obtain the

recommended steel

tubing and fittings to match the line to be replaced. Determine the correct length by measuring the old brake line (a piece of string can usually be

Brake hoses and lines - inspection and replacement

11

used

for this)

and cut the new tubing to

tra for flaring the Install

1

Inspection six

months, with the vehicle raised and supported se-

1

and rear brake assemblies should be inspected for cracks, These are important and vulnerable parts of the brake system and inspection should be complete. A light and mirror will be helpful for a thorough check. If a hose exhibits any of the above conditions, replace with a new one.

er

chafing of the outer cover, leaks, blisters and other damage.

it

/2-inch ex-

fitting

over the cut tubing and flare the ends of the

line with

a

system applications.

curely on jackstands, the rubber hoses which connect the steel brake lines with the front

1

A double-flare is the only acceptable type for automotive brake

flaring tool.

About every

1

the

length, allowing about

ends.

If

is

necessary, carefully bend the

recommended

When

1

for this.

installing the

new

line to

the proper shape.

A tube bend-

Warning: Do not crimp or damage the line

make sure

it's

securely supported

line.

in

the

brackets and has plenty of clearance between moving or hot components. After installation,

1

check the master cylinder fluid

necessary. Bleed the brake system as outlined the brakes carefully before driving the vehicle

in

level

and add fluid as

the next Section and test

in traffic.

Replacement Flexible Refer to

hose

illustration 11.2

Using a flare nut wrench, disconnect the brake line from the hose fitbeing careful not to bend the frame bracket or brake line (see illustration). If the fitting is extremely tight, hold the fitting block with a wrench to prevent the frame bracket from bending. Detach the hose from the bracket and the body. 3 4 Remove the banjo bolt from the caliper and discard the sealing wash2

ting,

ers.

5

Connect the hose

to the caliper, using

the banjo bolt to the torque listed

in this

new sealing washers. Tighten

Chapter's Specifications.

1

2

Brake hydraulic system - bleeding

Refer

to illustration 12.8

Warning: Wear eye protection when bleeding the brake system. If the fluid comes in contact with your eyes, immediately rinse them with water and seek medical attention. Note: Bleeding the hydraulic system

is

necessary

to

remove any air that

manages to find its way into the system when it's been opened during removal and installation of a hose, line, caliper or master cylinder.

Conventional brakes (non-ABS) air It will probably be necessary to bleed the system at all four brakes has entered the system due to low fluid level, or the brake lines have been disconnected at the master cylinder. 2 If a brake line was disconnected only at a wheel, then only that caliper or wheel cylinder must be bled. 3 If a brake line is disconnected at a fitting located between the master cylinder and any of the brakes, that part of the system served by the disconnected line must be bled. 4 Remove any residual vacuum from the brake power booster by applying the brake several times with the engine off. 5 Remove the master cylinder reservoir cover and fill the reservoir with brake fluid. Reinstall the cover. Note: Check the fluid level often during the bleeding operation and add fluid as necessary to prevent the fluid level from falling low enough to allow air bubbles into the master cylinder. 6 Have an assistant on hand, as well as a supply of new brake fluid, an 1

if

if

11.2

Use a

flare nut

wrench

remove the brake bracket assembly to

line

from the

empty clear tubing to

fit

plastic container, a length of 3/1 6-inch plastic, rubber or vinyl over the bleeder valve and a wrench to open and close the

bleeder valve.

2 3 4 5 7

1

Chapter 9

9-17

Brakes

Remove the retaining clip (A) and pull the locking lever (B) down and the tensioner will remove any slack in the parking

13.3

brake cable 12.8 When bleeding the brakes, a hose is connected to the bleeder valve at the caliper or wheel cylinder and submerged in brake fluid - air will be seen as bubbles in the tube and container (when no more bubbles appear, the air has been

purged from the caliper or wheel cylinder)

1

8

Have me assistant pump the brakes several times then repeat the op-

eration

until

the stream of

19

Check

20

Repeat Steps

the fluid level 1

fluid is free of air

in

bubbles.

the reservoir, topping

6 through

1

9 on the

left

it

up

if

necessary.

rear caliper.

The front brakes may be bled using the standard brake bleeding procedure described in Steps 9 and 10. 21

7

Beginning

then tighten

it

at the right rear

to

a point where

wheel, loosen the bleeder valve

it

is

snug but can

still

slightly,

be loosened quickly

and

easily.

8

Place one end of the tubing over the bleeder valve and submerge the

other end

9

Have

in

brake

fluid in

the assistant

the brakes slowly a few times to get pres-

sure

in the system, then hold the pedal firmly depressed. While the pedal is held depressed, open the bleeder valve just enough to allow a flow of fluid to leave the valve. Watch for air bubbles to exit the submerged end of the tube. When the fluid flow slows after a couple of seconds, close the valve and have your assistant release the

10

pedal.

Repeat Steps 9 and

1

tighten the bleeder valve

lustration).

will

13.3

Do

The tensioner will automatically remove the slack in the cable.

not pull excessively on the locking lever. The incorrect tension

stretch the cable.

Lock the tensioner by releasing the locking lever and check to make is secure by rotating it toward the threaded rod. Lower the vehicle and check the operation of the parking brake.

4

sure the lever

5

1

1

tiveness of the brake system.

to illustration

Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Block the front wheels to prevent the vehicle from rolling. 2 Place the transmission in Neutral and fully release the parking brake. From under the vehicle, remove the retaining clip and pull the locking 3 lever down (away from the threaded rod) to engage the tensioner (see il1

Note:

until no more air is seen leaving the tube, then and proceed to the left rear wheel, the right front wheel and the left front wheel, in that order, and perform the same procedure. Be sure to check the fluid in the master cylinder reservoir frequently. 1 Never use old brake fluid. It contains moisture which will deteriorate the brake system components. 1 Refill the master cylinder with fluid at the end of the operation. 1 Check the operation of the brakes. The pedal should feel solid when depressed, with no sponginess. If necessary, repeat the entire process. Warning: Do not operate the vehicle if you are in doubt about the effec1

Parking brake - adjustment

Refer

the container (see illustration).

pump

13

4

Parking brake cables - replacement

Raise the vehicle and support

it

securely on jackstands. Release the

parking brake completely.

2

Anti-lock brake system (ABS) 1

The rear calipers on ABS equipped vehicles require a slightly different

bleeding procedure. Turn the ignition key to the tivate the hydraulic

16

Connect a length

shown

in illustration

partially filled with 1

pump and charge up

Have an

position.

1

On position, which will ac-

the accumulator.

of tubing to the right rear caliper

2.8.

bleeder valve as

Place the other end of the tubing

clean brake

in

a container

in

the applied

fluid.

assistant depress the brake pedal

and hold

it

SLOWLY loosen the bleeder valve and allow the fluid to flow for

ten seconds, then close the valve.

Warning: the brake fluid in the rear cali-

pers is under extremely high pressure, and careless opening of the bleeder valves may cause the fluid to shoot out with great force.

Relieve the parking brake cable tension (see Section

1

3).

Note: Have

an assistant depress the parking brake to the last notch when the tensioner is unlocked in order to attain the maximum amount of slack in the cable. Caution: Since the spring will have full tension, use wire to hold it in this position to prevent any accidents. 3

Remove

the tensioner.

Foot operated type Front cable Refer

4

to illustrations 14.5a,

Disconnect the

switch.

14.5b

electrical

and 14.7

connector from the parking brake warning

1 2 5 6 8 9 7

9-18

Brakes

Chapter 9 CABLE ASSY

FOOT CONTROL ASSY

CABLE ASSY CABLE ASSY

CABLE ASSY 14.5a

Exploded view of the parking brake cables on the

The cable assembly and the

14.5b

foot operated type

foot control linkage

CROSSMEMBER

LOWER CONTROL ARM

CLIP

CUP CABLE ASSY

CABLE ASSY

14.13 The cables are held to the frame and suspension with clips - use needle-nose pliers to pinch the underside of the clip to squeeze it through the opening

The intermediate (rear) cable connector (arrow) is located on the side of the chassis near the rear of the vehicle

14.7

Rear cable(s) PRONGS MUST BE SECURELY LOCKED

BRAKE DRUM

IN

PLACE

Refer

CABLE ASSY

1

2).

to illustrations 14.

13

and

14.

15

Remove the cable tension by releasing the cable tensioner (see Step Remove the tensioner.

Disconnect the front cable from the intermediate cable (see Step 7). Remove the cable routing clips from the body side rails and rear crossmember by squeezing the clip together with needle-nose pliers between the cable and the crossmember (see illustration). 14 Remove the rear wheel and brake drum (if equipped). On drum brakes, remove the brake assembly as outlined in Section 8. 1 Disconnect the cable end from the parking brake lever (see illustra1

13

DISC BRAKE ASSY

'

10^7

CABLE ASSY

Detach the cable from the parking brake lever (drum and disc brake versions shown)

14.15

tion). 1

On drum

brake systems, using a pair of

pliers,

depress the tangs on

the cable housing retainer and pull the cable and housing out through the

Remove

the side trim panel and remove the cable end from the foot assembly (see illustrations). With pliers, remove the control cable conduit retainer from the cable 6 assembly. Squeeze the retainer enough to compress through the open-

5

control

backing plate. 1

Installation

is

the reverse of the removal procedure.

the the parking brake following the procedure outlined

Be sure to in

adjust

Section 13.

it

ing

7 tor

8 et

in

the bracket.

Disconnect the front cable from the intermediate cable (see illustration).

connec-

Remove the intermediate cable conduit retainer from the cable brackand

let

the cable hang down.

The mechanism

control cable conduit retainer (see

9

at the

Pull the

cable and the

Step

is

released similar to the

6).

grommet up through

the floorpan.

removal procedure. Be sure to adjust the parking brake following the procedure in Section 13. 1

Installation is the reverse of the

Hand operated type Front cable Refer to

illustrations

14.21a

and 14.21b

Disconnect the front cable from the rear cable at the cable connector. 1 Remove the cable routing clip from the body crossmember at the rear. Squeeze the clip with a pair of needle-nose pliers (see illustration 14.13). 20 Working inside the vehicle, remove the rear seat, then remove the 1

console.

Chapter 9

9-19

Brakes

BOLT

BOLT

HAND CONTROL CABLE ASSY

U-NUT

Hand brake assembly

14.21a

HAND CONTROL BOLT-

CABLE ASSY

CABLE ASSY

1

4.21 b

The cable end

is

slotted to

15.4

fit

over the lever

21

Remove the bolts that retain the pedal assembly to the body

Disconnect the cable from the hand control assembly (see illustra-

22

Pull the

cable and

grommet up through the rear floor and then

pull

the

cable out from under the carpet.

23

Installation is the

of the

vacuum hose and

the case.

Dismantling of the brake booster requires special tools and

narily

done by the home mechanic.

If

and

components

a problem develops,

is

install

not ordi-

a

new or

factory rebuilt unit.

reverse of the removal procedure. Be sure to adjust

the the parking brake following the procedure outlined

3.

Note:

The grommet must be fully inserted and seated in the floorpan hole

to pre-

in

Section

1

vent water leakage.

Removal Refer

Rear cable

3

to illustrations 16.5

Remove

carefully pull the

Steps

4

through 17.

and

16.6

the nuts attaching the master cylinder to the booster and

24 The rear cable(s) on the hand brake models are the same as the removal and installation of the cable(s) on the foot operated models. Refer to 11

related

from periodic inspection 2

tions).

Details of the brake pedal

16.5

master cylinder forward

Use caution so as

until

it

clears the mounting studs.

bend or kink the brake lines. Disconnect the vacuum hose where it attaches to the power brake not to

booster.

15

Refer 1

2 3

5

Parking brake pedal - removal and installation to illustration 15.4

Remove the three pedal assembly mounting bolts (see illustration). Remove the bolt that holds the pedal assembly to the instrument panRemove To

install

6

off the pin (see illustration). Also remove the nuts attaching the brake booster to the firewall (see

7

Carefully detach the booster from the firewall

and

lift it

out of the en-

gine compartment.

Installation the pedal assembly, reverse the removal procedure and ad-

brake cable as outlined

in

8

Place the booster into position on the firewall and tighten the mount-

ing nuts.

Section 13.

Install

9

Power brake booster - removal,

installation

and adjustment

The power brake booster unit requires no special maintenance

apart

Connect the pushrod and brake

the retaining clip

Install

in this

Carefully

in traffic.

in

light

switch to the brake pedal.

the brake pedal pin.

the master cylinder to the booster, tightening the nuts to the

torque listed 1

1

the passenger compartment under the steering column,

illustration).

the pedal assembly.

just the parking

16

in

the pushrod

Release the parking brake completely. Release the tension from the cables (see Section 13). Follow Steps 1 through 6 of Section 1 4 to remove the front cable from

the pedal assembly.

4

Working

unplug the electrical connector from the brake light switch, then remove the pushrod retaining clip and nylon washer from the brake pedal pin. Slide

Chapter's Specifications.

check the operation

of the

brakes before driving the vehicle

2 4 5

1

9-20

Brakes

Chapter 9 BODY

GAUGE DIMENSIONS 76 2m*"

•4

31.75mm (1.25

***

"•"NLJce »

'/'

INCHES)

\ 1

12.7mm ' (0.5 INCH)

/

5.84mm

INCH)

(0.23

MINIMUM 76.2mm (3-INCHES)

6.22mm

(0.245 INCH)

L_ '

i

BOOSTER ASSY

t

MAXIMUM

Power brake booster

16.6

Power brake pushrod gauge template

16.11

installation details

BOOSTER CHECK VALVE

ADJUST PUSH ROD SCREW TO PROVIDE A SLIGHT PRESSURE (APPROXIMATELY 22.24 N (5 LBS) AGAINST THE GAUGE

POWER

UNIT

•

PUSH ROD ADJUSTMENT-BENDIX

Use a small screwdriver

17.3

16.15

Checking the pushrod length (the pushrod is most likely will never need adjusting)

factory preset and

doesn't, adjust

it

of pliers 1

Refer 1

6

to illustrations 16.11

for

adjustable pushrod. will

They are matched

to

not require adjustment, but

17

Brake

tion).

Refer

Some common symptoms caused by a misadjusted pushrod include the pushrod

is

too long) or excessive brake pedal travel

accompanied by a groaning sound from the brake booster is

(if

light

switch - removal and installation

if

Removal

(if

pushrod with a pair

the adjustment is complete, reinstall the master cylinder and proper brake operation before driving the vehicle in traffic.

a misadjusted pushrod is suspected, a gauge can be fabricated out of heavy gauge sheet metal using the accompanying template (see illustra-

dragging brakes

of the

and turning the end with a wrench.

and 16.15

Some boosters feature an

the booster at the factory and most likely

1

by holding the knurled portion

clip inside the

When

check

Adjustment

it

disengage the connector

to

electrical

the pushrod

too short).

13 To check the pushrod length, unbolt the master cylinder from the booster and position it to one side. It isn't necessary to disconnect the hy-

be careful not to bend them. Block the front wheels, apply the parking brake and place the transaxle in Park or Neutral.

1

to illustration

Remove

1

7.3

the under dash panel.

Locate the switch near the top of the brake pedal and disconnect the brake light switch assembly from the brake pedal by remove the retaining

2

clip.

3

Use a screwdriver and disconnect

brake

light

the electrical connector from the

switch (see illustration).

draulic lines, but 1

and place the pushrod gauge against the end of the pushrod, exerting a force of approximately five pounds to seat the pushrod in the power unit (see illustration). The rod measurement should fall somewhere between the minimum and maximum cutouts on the gauge. If 1

Start the engine

Installation 4

Install

the switch to the electrical connector by snapping the clip into

place.

6

Reconnect the assembly to the brake pedal. Install the under dash panel.

7

Check the brake

5

lights for

proper operation.

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems Contents Automatic Ride Control (ARC) system - general information .... 2 Balljoints - check and replacement 6 Chassis lubrication See Chapter 1 Front control arms - removal and installation 7 Front hub and bearing assembly - removal and installation 9 Front shock absorber/coil spring assembly - removal

and

4

installation

- replacement - removal and installation

Front shock absorber/coil spring

5

Front stabilizer bar

3

General information Intermediate shaft

Power Power Power Rear

steering fluid level steering

spring

installation

11

See Chapter

check

pump - removal and

installation

- bleeding - removal and installation

steering system

coil

1

- removal and

1

13 15

20

Rear shock absorber - removal and installation Rear stabilizer bar- removal and installation Rear suspension arms - removal and installation Rear suspension knuckle - removal and installation Spindle - removal and installation Steering and suspension check Steering gear boots - replacement Steering gear- removal and installation Steering wheel - removal and installation Tie-rod ends - removal and installation Tire and tire pressure checks

19 18 21

22 8

See Chapter

1

17 12 10 16 See Chapter 1 Tire rotation See Chapter 1 Variable assist power steering (EVO) - general information 14 Wheel alignment -general information 24 Wheels and tires - general information 23

8

10-2

Chapter 10

Suspension and steering systems

Specifications

Torque specifications

Ft-ibs

Front suspension Lower control arm-to-crossmember pivot bolts/nuts Lower control arm balljoint-to-spindle nut* Lower control arm-to-tension strut nut Shock upper mount-to-body nuts Shock-to-upper mount nut Shock assembly-to-lower control arm

96 to 110 1 00 to 1 1 103 to 118 16 to 23 37 to 45

103 to 144 148 to 162 39 to 54 72 to 88 59 to 66

1989 models 1990 models Tie-rod end-to-spindle*

Upper Upper

control arm-to-body bolts/nuts control arm-to-spindle pinch bolt/nut

Rear suspension Upper Upper Lower

control arm-to-subframe pivot bolt/nut

Front

Rear Lower control arm-to-knuckle assembly Lower control arm-to-toe compensator link Shock-to-lower control arm Shock-to-upper mount Splash shield-to-knuckle bolts

Hub

50 to 70 118 to 148

control arm-to-frame pivot bolt/nut

control arm-to-knuckle bolt/nut

retainer nut

1 84 to 229 25 to 1 70 1 1 8 to 1 48 118 to 148 1 1 to 1 20 27 to 35 45 to 59 250

Steering system Tie-rod end-to-spindle

arm nuts*

Steering gear mounting bolts/nuts

Intermediate shatt-to-steering gear bolt

39 to 54 1 75 to 230 20 to 30

Intermediate shaft-to-steering column shaft nut

and

40 33 See Chapter

30 23

bolt

Steering wheel bolt

Wheel *

1

lug nuts

Tighten to the

minimum

to to

1

specified torque, then align the next castellation in the nut with the cotter pin hole.

General information

system. This feature automatically adjusts the suspension to

suit

conditions and driving style by changing the shock absorber

damping

characteristics.

Refer

to illustrations

1. 1

and

1.2

Warning: Whenever any of the suspension or steering fasteners are loosened or removed they must be inspected and if necessary, replaced with new ones of the same part number or of original equipment quality and design. Torque specifications must be followed for proper reassembly and component retention. Never attempt to heat, straighten or weld any suspension or steering component. Instead, replace any bent or damaged part with a new one. Note: These vehicles may use a combination of standard and metric fasteners on the various suspension and steering components, so it would be a good idea to ha ve both types of tools a vaitable when beginning work.

The front suspension is independent, allowing each wheel to compensate for road surface changes without appreciably affecting the other (see illustration). Each wheel is connected to the frame by a spindle, balljoint, lower control arm, upper control arm and a shock absorber/coil spring assembly positioned vertically between the lower control arm and frame. Body side roll is controlled by a stabilizer bar. The independent rear suspension consists of two coil springs, shock absorbers, a stabilizer bar, two lower and two upper control arms (see illustration).

Some models

are equipped with an Automatic Ride Control (ARC)

The Automatic Ride Control

will

be described

in

road

greater

detail in the next Section.

The steering system consists of the steering wheel, steering column, an articulated intermediate shaft, the steering gear, power steering pump and the tie-rods, which connect the steering gear to the spindles.

Automatic Ride Control (ARC) system - general information

2

Refer

to illustration

2.2

The Automatic Ride Control system, installed on Super Coupe/XR7 models, automatically changes the shock absorber valving to firm-up the suspension to suit road conditions and driving style. The system incorporates a switch, mounted on the center console to the right of the driver's seat,

which allows the driver

When

to select either the "Auto" or "Firm" position.

will maintain a smooth, soft normal driving conditions, but when the system's computer detects harsh cornering, hard braking, rapid acceleration or high speed, it adjusts the shock absorber damping to improve vehicle handling and road feel. With the switch set in the "Firm" position, the shock damping will be

in

the "Auto" position, the suspension

ride during

firm

no matter what driving conditions are present.

Chapter 10

Suspension and steering systems

10-3

"O

^ o £ S V q, S;

3 P

TO

TO

£

S *-

>-

a.

M 3 W k.

25

(0 0)

CO

T

o 5

> 0)

o «5 a>

oc

2

3 a CM

2 o co

o

t-

C\J

Chapter 10

10-5

Suspension and steering systems ARC/EVO

CONTROL MODULE

ACTUATOR

BRAKE SENSOR ACCELERATION SIGNAL

ARC/EVO SELF TEST CONNECTOR

ACTUATOR

ADJUSTABLE

SHOCK

ADJUSTABLE

SHOCK Details of the Automatic Ride Control (ARC) system

2.2

EVO ACTUATOR (POWER STEERING)

The system receives

may be able to be cleared by changing the ride back and forth. Due to the rather complex nature of the Automatic Ride Control system, all troubleshooting and repairs, with the exception of searching for loose connectors, wires and blown fuses, should be left to a qualified dealer service department technician. may

which

information from various information sensors

lo-

tion

cated throughout the vehicle (see illustration). These sensors send

in-

control switch setting

puts to the

ARC control

module, which

adjust the shock absorbers.

in

turn "decides"

whether or not

The system components and

to

their functions

are listed below: a)

Brake sensor - activated when brake system hydraulic pressure over 400 psi

b)

is

detected.

(ARC control module takes a reading, via the EEC-I V engine management computer) -the control module looks

Acceleration signal for large throttle

3

Front stabilizer bar - removal and installation

openings.

Steering sensor - the steering sensor

is a variable resistor assemmounted to the steering column, which alters the voltage to the control module as the steering wheel is turned. The control module

c)

exist,

Refer

to illustrations

3.3

and 3. 10

bly

looks for a specific reading and,

d)

in

conjunction with the vehicle

speed reading, comes up with a lateral acceleration figure. Cornering forces above 0.35g will activate the "Firm" setting. Speed sensor - the control module takes a reading from the speed sensor and adjusts the shock damping when speeds above 83 mph

Removal 1

Remove

2

Raise the vehicle and support

the throttle body

inlet

tube (see Chapter it

4).

securely on jackstands. Apply the

parking brake.

Remove the stabilizer bar link nuts and brackets, noting how the washers and bushings are positioned (see illustration). 3

are attained. e)

Mode

selector switch

- when

set

in

the "Firm" position, the shock

absorber damping rates are increased, regardless of the above described parameters. When set in the "Auto" position, the control module assesses the information from the ARC sensors then selects either the "Firm" or "Soft" ride setting.

- processes information from the above sensors and activates the ARC relays, which in turn control the power to the shock absorber actuators. ARC relays - activated by the control module, the relays switch the Control module

f)

g)

polarity to the

shock absorber actuators, placing the actuators

in

the proper positions. h)

Actuators - mounted to the top of the shock absorbers, the actuators change the damping rates by altering the internal valving of the

shock absorber.

When any one of the setting will automatically

required conditions are encountered, the "Firm" be selected, which will be evident by the green

below the tachometer and the change in the vehicle's ride. the ARC control module detects any faults within the system, the indi-

indicator light If

cator light

will

flash

on and

off.

Sometimes a false or intermittent malfunc-

3.3

Clean the threads (arrows) with a wire brush before attempting to remove the stabilizer bracket bolts

1

1

10-6

Chapter 10

Suspension and steering systems

STABILIZER BAR

ing

and other signs of deterioration.

off

the bar.

If

the bushings are damaged, cut them

Installation

SPINDLE

12

Lubricate the

new

stabilizer bar

bushings with a rubber lubricant

(such as a silicone spray) and slide the bushings onto the bar. 13 Push the brackets over the bushings and install the stabilizer bar.

STABILIZER

BAR LINK

Tighten the bolts securely.

14

4

Installation is the reverse of removal.

Front shock absorber/coil spring assembly - removal

and Refer

installation

to illustrations 4.4, 4.5, 4.6a,

4.6b and 4.9

Removal 1

Loosen the

front

wheel lug nuts, raise the vehicle and support

it

se-

curely on jackstands.

2

Remove

the wheel.

it slightly. The must remain in this position throughout the entire procedure. 4 On models equipped with Automatic Ride Control (ARC), remove the actuator retaining screws and lift the actuator from its mounting bracket

3

Place a floor jack under the lower control arm and raise

jack

JOINT SEPARATOR

(see illustration).

Loosen the three upper mount-to-shock tower retaining nuts (see ilremove them completely. If the upper mount is to be removed from the shock absorber/coil spring assembly, also loosen (but do not remove) the center nut at this time. Remove the shock-to-lower control arm nut and bolt (see illustra6 5

3.10

Separate the stabilizer bar from the stabilizer bar

link with

a special tool

lustration) but do not

tions).

Remove Remove Remove

4 5 6 7 8 9

the serpentine drive belt (see Chapter

the front tires and wheels.

tie-rod

damper (see Chapter 2B). ends from the spindle (see Section 16).

the transmission

oil

cooler line bracket.

the stabilizer bar-to-stabilizer bar link nuts.

Separate the stabilizer bar link from the stabilizer bar with a joint sepa(see illustration). 1 Remove the stabilizer bar by lifting it from the right side of the vehicle. Remove the stabilizer bushings. Inspect the bushings for cracks, harden1

rator tool

Separate the shock absorber/coil spring assembly from the spindle. Remove the stabilizer link upper mounting nut. Separate the stabilizer link from the spindle (see illustration). 9 10 Use the floor jack to raise the lower control arm to separate the stabilizer link from the spindle. Position the stabilizer link out of the way. 1 Disconnect the upper control arm from the spindle (see Section 7). 12 Lower the floor jack to separate the spindle from the upper control arm. Use wire to support the spindle by attaching it to the upper control arm. Lower the floor jack, remove the shock tower-to-upper mount nuts and remove the shock absorber/coil spring assembly from the vehicle. 7

8

the front crankshaft vibration

Separate the

Remove Remove

1 ).

ACTUATOR

ACTUATOR WASHER

SHOCK ABSORBER

4.4

4.5 The upper mount of the shock absorber/coil spring assembly is retained to the body by three nuts (A) - if the upper

Mounting details of the

ARC

actuator

mount is to be removed from the shock absorber/coil spring assembly, loosen (but do not remove) the center nut (B) first

4.6a

control

Remove

the shock-to-lower

arm bolt (arrow) - use a back-up wrench if necessary

4 5 7 9

Chapter 10

10-7

Suspension and steering systems SPINDLE

NUT

NUT

WASHER

COLLAR PLATE COIL SPRING

UPPER MOUNT

SHOCK ABSORBER

J^INT SEPARATOR

NUT

STABILIZER BAR LINK

BOLT

LOWER CONTROL ARM

4.9

Use a special

joint separating tool to

disconnect

the stabilizer link

on an exchange basis. This eliminates much time and work. So, before disassembling the shock absorber/coil spring assembly to replace individ-

Mounting details

of the shock absorber/coil spring assembly

4.6b

components, check on the availability of parts and the price of a comWarning: Disassembling a shock absorber/coil spring assembly is a potentially dangerous undertaking and utmost attention must be directed to the job at hand, or serious injury may result. Use only a high quality spring compressor and carefully follow the manufacturer 's instructions furnished with the tool. After removing the coil spring from the shock, set it aside in a safe, isolated area (a steel cabinet is preferred). Mount the shock absorber/coil spring assembly in a vise. Line the vise 3 jaws with wood or rags to prevent damage to the unit and don't tighten the ual

plete rebuilt unit.

Installation 1

3

If

was replaced and conseover the top of the new

the shock absorber/coil spring assembly

was removed,

quently the upper mount

place

it

shock absorber/coil spring assembly and install the nut. 1 Guide the assembly into position in the wheel well, pushing the upper mount studs through the holes in the shock tower. Install the three nuts and tighten them to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. Note: The Ford Motor Company recommends that the nuts not be re-used - replace them with 1

Remove the wire, the nut and

used.

Install

bolt.

insert the spindle into the

Again,

a spring compressor in accordance with the tool manufactur(see illustration). (You can buy a spring compressor at most auto parts stores or rent one from most equipment yards on a daily basis.) Compress the spring far enough to relieve all pressure from the spring seat (if you can wiggle the spring, it's loose enough). Note: The up4

Install

er's instructions

new ones.

stall

vise excessively.

it

is

upper control arm and

recommended that new bolts and them to the torque

the nuts and tighten

listed in this

in-

nuts be

Chapter's

Specifications.

16

Attach the shock absorber/coil spring assembly to the lower control

arm, tightening the nut securely.

MARK BEFORE

the stabilizer link to the spindle.

1

Install

18

Tighten the upper mount-to-shock assembly retaining nut to the

torque listed

in this

Chapter's Specifications

DISASSEMBLY (if

UPPER SHOCK

MOUNT

removed). Tighten the

three upper mounting nuts securely. 1

On models equipped

with Automatic Ride Control (ARC), attach the

actuator to the mounting bracket, aligning the flats on the actuator rod with the slot

20

in

the shock absorber.

Remove the jack from under the lower control arm and install the disc

brake caliper as outlined 21

Install

torque listed

5

Chapter

9.

in

the Chapter

1

Specifications.

Front shock absorber/coil spring - replacement

Refer 1

in

the wheel, lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts to the

to illustrations

Remove

(see Section

5.4

and 5.8

^Paf5^

the shock absorber/coil spring assembly from the vehicle 4).

Check the shock absorber for leaking fluid, dents, cracks or other obCheck the coil spring for chips or cracks which could cause premature failure and inspect the spring seats for hardness or general deterioration. Complete shock absorber/coil spring assemblies are available 2

vious damage.

5.4

also,

Mark the position of the upper mount to the coil spring spring compressor is securely attached and the coil spring is compressed evenly

make sure the

10-8

Chapter 10

CL

*•

Suspension and steering systems

UPPER MOUNTING STUD

LOWER SHOCK MOUNTING BOLT

UPPER MOUNTING STUD

W.2°

The upper mount must be positioned as shown

5.8

Remove the pinch

bolt and nut (arrow) and detach the spindle from the upper control arm

7.2

per shock mount cannot rotate when the shock and the spring are assembled so it is very important to mark the position of the upper mount to the coil spring with chalk or paint before disassembly. If the upper mount is not in the proper position, the studs won t fit into the holes in the shock tow-

NUT

er.

5

TIGHTEN WITH CONTROL IN HORIZONTAL

Place a box-end wrench on the damper rod nut, hold the damper rod

ARM

POSITION

wrench and remove the nut. Disassemble the shock absorber/coil spring assembly. Carefully lift the compressed spring from the assembly and set in a safe place, such as a steel cabinet. Warning Keep the ends of the spring facing away from your body! Pay close attention to the order in which you remove the parts. It's a good idea to lay the parts out in their exact relationship to each other on the work bench because everything must be reassembled exactly the with a

UPPER CONTROL ARM

6

it

NUT

:

same way 7

it

came

damper

off.

damper

Inspect tne

rod seal for leakage. Extend and retract the

rod slowly, then quickly, through

smooth, quiet and

offer resistance.

If

it's

resistance, replace the shock absorber.

its

full

stroke.

should be

It

jerky, noisy or offers

It's

a sealed

unit

and

little

can't

or no

be

SPINDLE

re-

built.

Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. Be sure to use a new damper rod nut. Tighten the damper rod (upper mount) nut to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. Note: The mounting studs must be 8

in

a position that is

slightly offset to the

lower shock mounting bolt (see

BOLT

il-

lustration).

9

6

Install

Balljoints

details

Upper control arm

- check and replacement

Refer

The

Upper control arm

7.4

the shock absorber/coil spring assembly (see Section 4).

on the upper control arm of this vehicle are not replaceThe entire control arm must be replaced the upper control arm balljoints are worn out. The lower balljoints require a special tool that clamps onto the control arm and simultaneously presses the balljoint out. If the lower balljoint needs to be replaced, remove the lower control arm (see Section 7) and take to a dealer service department or other repair shop to have the old balljoint removed and a new one pressed in. balljoints

able separately.

if

it

to illustrations 7.2

and

7.4

2 Remove the upper balljoint-to-spindle bolt and nut (see illustration). Separate the spindle from the upper control arm (it may be necessary to insert a screwdriver into the pinch joint and spread it slightly). Support the spindle with a piece of wire or rope. The Ford Motor Company recom-

mends

discarding the old bolt and nut ana installing

3

Break

4

Remove

off

the tabs on the upper control the upper control

the control arm. Note:

head

of the bolt.

If

Use a

arm

arm

new ones.

pivot bolts.

bolts (see illustration)

and remove

six-point socket to avoid rounding off the

the pivot bushings appear to be worn out or deterioarm to a dealer service department or other repair

rated, take the control

7

shop

Front control arms - removal and installation

to

have the old bushings pressed out and new ones pressed

in.

Lower control arm Refer to

Removal 1

5

Loosen the wheel lug

jackstands.

Remove

nuts, raise the vehicle

the wheel.

and support securely on it

illustrations 7.5, 7.6,

Loosen

7.

7a and

do not remove) the

7.

7b

balljoint retaining nut

(see illustra-

separate the lower control arm from the spindle. Use a special separator tool (available at most auto parts stores). Also, it is a

tion), then balljoint

(but

7

Chapter 10

7.5

Lower control arm

D

10-9

Suspension and steering systems

details

Mark the position of the camber adjustment cam to

7.6

the chassis

A B

Balljoint retaining nut Balljoint

lower mounting bolt

C

Tension strut

and nut

Shock absorber

to tighten

all

of the fasteners to the

torque values listed

in this

Chapter's

Specifications.

good idea to use wire and support the spindle so the upper control arm does not sag excessively. Mark the position of the camber adjustment cam to the chassis (see 6

1 1

Have the front end alignment checked at a dealer service department

or alignment shop.

illustration).

7

Remove the nut that attaches the tension strut to the control arm (see Use a back-up wrench (open end) on the tension Make sure only the flat side of the tension strut is used for leverage

illustration 7.5). Note: strut.

and place the wrench directly behind the lower control arm. Do not use the area near the bend in the strut or damage to the tension strut may occur (see illustrations). 8 Remove the shock absorber lower mounting bolt and nut. 9 Remove the pivot bolt and nut, then detach the control arm. If the pivot

bushing appears to be worn out or deteriorated, take the control arm to a dealer service department or other repair shop to have the old bushings pressed out and new ones pressed in.

Spindle - removal and installation

8

Refer

to illustration 8.

Removal 1

Loosen the wheel

hicle.

Support

it

2

Remove the brake caliper and secure

reverse of the removal procedure, but don't tighten the pivot fasteners until the suspension is at normal ride height. This can be accomplished by positioning a floor jack under the lower control arm

Chapter 9). Separate the 5

and

raising

it

until

the vehicle just raises

off

the jackstand.

Be sure

it

with wire so

i»

doesn't interfere

Remove the front hub and bearing assembly (see Section 9). Remove the brake anti-lock sensor and position out of the way (see

4

balljoint

Remove

with the spindle. Slide the brake disc from the hub.

3 Installation is the

brake and raise the ve-

the wheel.

Installation 1

lug nuts, apply the parking

securely on jackstands placed under the frame.

6

it

tie-rod

end from the spindle arm (see Section

16).

Remove the stabilizer bar link at the spindle using a special joint sepa-

rating tool

(see illustration

4.9).

AREA TO BE KEPT FREE OF TOOLS

TENSION STRUT

RORL

7.7b

The tension

7.7a

Place the back-up wrench on the strut only

flat

portion of the tension

be weakened becomes nicked

strut could

area

if

the bent

1 3 5 6 7

10-10

Suspension and steering systems

Chapter 10 UPPER CONTROL ARM

HUB AND BEARING ASSY

KNUCKLE ASSY

NUT

STABILIZER BAR 5494

9.6

If

the

hub assembly

is

use a

not easily removed by hand, puller.

NUT

Removal

SPINDLE

lug nuts, apply the parking brake and raise the veSupport it securely on jackstands placed under the frame. Remove the wheel. Remove the grease cap from the hub and discard it. 2 3 Remove the brake caliper (see Chapter 9) and secure it with wire so 1

Loosen the wheel

hicle.

LOWER CONTROL ARM Spindle installation details

8.7

that

4 5

Disconnect the lower balljoint from the spindle (see illustration). Break the balljoint loose from the spindle using a balljoint separator tool or by rapping the spindle boss sharply with a hammer. Note: A picklefork 7

type balljoint separator 8

Remove and

may damage

the balljoint seals.

discard the spindle-to-upper control

arm

bolt

and nut

it

does not

Remove Remove

interfere with the spindle.

the brake disc. the hub nut and discard

it.

Warning: Never re-use the hub

nut.

Remove the hub and bearing assembly (see illustration). Note: If assembly cannot be removed by hand, use a two-jaw puller. Don immerse the hub unit in solvent. It is packed with grease at the factory and to do so would ruin

6

the

't

it.

(see illustration 7.2). Spread the slot in the connector slightly and remove

Installation

the spindle from the vehicle.

Installation 9

Place the spindle onto the lower control arm

the reverse of removal.

7

Installation

8

Tighten the hub nut to the torque listed

is

in this

Chapter's Specifica-

tions.

balljoint.

Insert the top of the spindle into the upper control arm and install the and nut. Tighten the nut to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. Note: The Ford Motor Company recommends that these bolts (and nuts) be replaced, not re-used. 1 Tighten the lower control arm balljoint stud nut to the torque listed in 1

bolt

this

Chapter's Specifications.

12

Install

1

Connect the

torque

10

Steering wheel - removal and installation

Refer

to illustrations 10.3

and

10.4

the hub and bearing assembly (see Section 9). tie-rod

listed in this

end

to the spindle

arm and

tighten the nuts to the

Chapter's Specifications. Be sure to use a

new cotter

Removal Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. Pull the horn pad from the steering wheel and disconnect the horn electrical connector. If equipped, disconnect the speed control switch wire from the contact plate terminal. 3 Remove the steering wheel retaining bolt, then mark the relationship of the steering shaft to the hub (see illustration) (if marks don't already 1

pin.

14

Install

the stabilizer link to the spindle.

1

Install

the brake disc.

1

Install

the brake caliper.

1

Install

the wheel and lug nuts.

to the

torque listed

in

the Chapter

Lower the vehicle and 1

2

tighten the nuts

Specifications.

and ensure correct steering wheel alignment. 4 Use a puller to detach the steering wheel from the shaft (see illustraexist or don't line up) to simplify installation

9

Front hub and bearing assembly - removal and installation

tion).

Installation Refer

to illustration 9.6

Note: The front wheel bearings are a single unit hub design and are pregreased, sealed and require no maintenance. The bearings are preset and cannot be adjusted. If a bearing replacement is required, the hub and bearing assembly must be replaced as an assembly.

5

To

install

the wheel, align the mark on the steering wheel hub with the

mark on the shaft and

slip

the wheel onto the shaft.

Install

the hub bolt and

6

Chapter's Specifications. Connect the horn electrical connector and install the horn pad.

7

Connect the negative battery cable.

tighten

it

to the torque listed in this

.

Chapter 10

10-11

Suspension and steering systems Intermediate shaft - removal and installation

11

Refer

to illustrations 11.2a, 11.2b

and

11.2c

Turn the front wheels to the straight ahead position. 2 Using a marking pen or white paint, place alignment marks on the intermediate shaft-to-steering shaft and the lower flexible coupling-to-steering gear input shaft joints (see illustrations). 1

Remove the upper clamp bolt and lower flexible coupling pinch bolt (see illustrations 11 .2a and 11 .2b). Note: The Ford Motor Company recommends the replacement of the intermediate shaft fasteners once they have been removed (Use genuine Ford parts or equivalent quality fasten3

ers only).

4 Remove the intermediate shaft from the lower flexible coupling using a large screwdriver and then from the upper U-joint assembly. Pull on the column end of the intermediate shaft toward the boot and 5 into the vehicle,

10.3

Mark the relationship of the steering wheel to the steering shaft to aid in alignment

when reassembling

10.4 Remove the wheel from the shaft with a puller - DO NOT beat on the shaft

6

Installation

then is

pull the

intermediate shaft out.

the reverse of the removal procedure.

in this

then mark the lower end of 11.2b the intermediate shaft and the steering gear input shaft

11 .2a Mark the upper end of the intermediate shaft and the steering .

.

.

.

.

BODY

Details of the intermediate shaft

11.2c

STEERING GEAR ASSY

to align

Chapter's Specifications.

column shaft

^

Be sure

the marks and tighten the pinch bolts to the torque values listed

1

10-12

12.5a

12

Chapter 10

Suspension and steering systems

Locations of the steering gear mounting bolts

The steering gear mounting nuts are accessible through holes in the rear of the crossmember

12.5b

Steering gear - removal and installation

Connect the power steering pressure and return hoses to the steering fill the power steering pump reservoir with the recommended fluid (see Chapter 1). 1 Lower the vehicle and bleed the steering system as outlined in Sec1

Refer

to illustration 12.5a

gear and

and 12.5b

Removal Raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Apply the parking brake. 2 Place a drain pan under the steering gear (power steering only). Remove the power steering pressure and return lines and cap the ends to prevent excessive fluid loss and contamination. Mark the relationship of the intermediate shaft flexible coupling to the 3 steering gear input shaft. Remove the pinch bolt (see illustration 11 .2b). Separate the tie-rod ends from the spindle arms (see Section 1 6). 4 5 Support the steering gear and remove the steering gear-to-frame mounting nuts and bolts (see illustration). The nuts are accessible through the hole in rear of the crossmember (see illustration). Lower the 1

unit,

separate the intermediate shaft from the steering gear input shaft and

remove the steering gear from the

vehicle.

tion 15.

Refer

Note

Connect the Install

13.3

A

tie-rod

ends

to the spindle

arms (see Section

the intermediate shaft pinch bolt and tighten

listed in this

13.5

:

If

you are working on a supercharged model, the intercooler and inmust be removed to gain access to the pump (see Chap-

ter 4).

Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. Place a drain pan under the power steering pump. Remove the drive-

Chapter 1). Using a special power steering pump pulley remover, remove the pulley from the pump (see illustration). 4 Remove the pressure and return hoses from the backside of the pump and allow the fluid to drain. Plug the hoses to prevent contaminants belt (see

Raise the steering gear into position and connect the intermediate shaft, aligning the marks. 7 Install the mounting bolts and washers and tighten the nuts to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. 9

and

tercooler tubes

1

6

8

to illustrations 13.3

installation

Removal

2

Installation

Power steering pump - removal and

13

it

1

6)

to the torque

Chapter's Specifications.

special puller

is

required to remove the power steering pump pulley

3

from entering. 5 Remove the pump mounting bolts (see illustration) and lift the pump from the vehicle, taking care not to spill fluid on the painted surfaces.

13.5

First

remove the pump bracket bolts and the bracket, then remove the power steering pump bolts

Chapter 10

10-13

Suspension and steering systems pump in

relation to the vehicle's

speed and steering wheel

rotation, there-

by delivering different rates of assistance to the system. The EVO system provides full power steering assist at low vehicle speeds for easy parking

and a minimum assist at high speed for directional stability and enhanced road feel. Full power steering is returned for difficult road maneu-

effort

vers.

2

A Fail Safe feature is designed into the EVO system.

electrical circuit failure,

open

circuit,

In

the event of an

malfunctioning controller or

some

component problem the actuator will provide full power steering assist during these failure modes. Have the system diagnosed by a dealer service department or other repair shop as soon as possible. The system is composed of an EVO Actuator Assembly, steering 3 wheel rotation sensor, vehicle speed sensor, service diagnostic connector and a control module (see illustration). Diagnosing the EVO system is beyond the scope of the home mechanic, due to the special equipment required. the system becomes defective, have the vehicle diagnosed by If

a dealer service department or other repair shop. 13.8

A

special pulley-installer tool (available at tool and auto is needed to push the pulley onto the pump shaft -

parts stores)

under no circumstances should the pulley be hammered onto the shaft, as this would damage the pump!

Installation Refer 6

to illustration 13.8

Position the

pump in the mounting bracket and

en the bolts securely. Connect the hoses 7 8

to the

Press the pulley onto the

pump. Tighten the

pump

install

the bolts. Tight-

fittings securely.

shaft using a special pulley installer

(see illustration). Push the pulley onto the shaft until the front of the hub is flush with the end of the shaft, but no further. Install the drivebelt. 9 10 Fill the power steering reservoir with the recommended fluid and bleed the system following the procedure described in Section 15. tool

15

Power steering system - bleeding

1 Following any operation in which the power steering fluid lines have been disconnected, the power steering system must be bled to remove all air and obtain proper steering performance. 2 With the front wheels in the straight ahead position, check the power steering fluid level and, if low, add fluid until it reaches the Cold mark on the

dipstick.

Start the engine and allow to run at fast idle. Recheck the fluid level and add more if necessary to reach the Cold mark on the dipstick. 4 Bleed the system by turning the wheels from side-to-side, without hitting the stops. This will work the air out of the system. Keep the reservoir

3

full

5

it

of fluid

When

straight

as

this is

the air

ahead

is

done.

worked out of the system, return the wheels to the and leave the vehicle running for several more

position

minutes before shutting

14

Variable Assist

Power Steering (EVO) - general information

1

to illustrations 14.3

The

off.

is

functioning

Recheck the

fluid level to be sure it is up to the Hot mark on the dipengine is at normal operating temperature. Add fluid if necessary (see Chapter 1).

7

Refer

it

Road test the vehicle to be sure the steering system 6 normally and noise free. stick while the

EVO system is designed to vary the flow from the power steering

COUGAR LS WITHOUT CONTROL MODULE

ANTI-LOCK BRAKING SYSTEM

SERVICE

CONNECTOR AUXILIARY

VIEW

POWER STEERING PUMP WITH ACTUATOR

THUNOERBIRO LX AND

COUGAR LS WITH ANTI-LOCK BRAKING SYSTEM

14.3

Details of the

EVO system

.

10-14

Suspension and steering systems

Chapter 10

Hold the tie-rod end with a wrench and loosen the jam nut

16.2a

1

6.2b

Mark the position of the end on the tie-rod

Use a two jaw puller to separate the tie-rod end from the spindle arm

16.4

tie-rod

been loosened, but not removed - this will prevent the components from separating violently) (notice the nut has

16

Tie-rod

Refer

ends - removal and

to illustrations 16.2a,

16.2b

installation

and

16.4

Removal 1

Loosen the wheel

Remove 2

wheels and set the parking and support securely on jackstands.

lug nuts. Block the rear

brake. Raise the front of the vehicle

it

the front wheel.

Hold the tie-rod end with a wrench and loosen the jam nut enough to

mark the

position of the tie-rod

end

in relation to

the threads (see illustra-

tions).

3

4

Remove the cotter pin and loosen the nut on the tie-rod end stud. Disconnect the tie-rod from the spindle arm with a puller (see illustra-

tion).

5

Remove

the nut and separate the tie-rod.

Unscrew the

end from the

tie-rod

tie-rod.

Installation 6

Thread the

tie-rod

end onto the marked position and

insert the tie-rod 1

7.3

stud into the spindle arm. Tighten the jam nut securely.

7

Install

a new nut on the stud and tighten it to the torque listed in this Install a new cotter pin. the wheel and lug nuts. Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug

Remove the boot clamps

Chapter's Specifications.

8

Install

nuts to the torque listed

in

the Chapter

1

18

Have the alignment checked by a dealer service department or an 9 alignment shop.

Refer 1

2 17

3

1

to illustration

1

7.3

Loosen the wheel

jackstands.

Remove

lug nuts, raise the vehicle

and support securely on it

the wheel.

2

Referring to Section

3

Remove

isn't

damaged.

5

Slide the

1

6,

remove the

tie-rod end.

in

new boot into position on the steering gear until seats in the install new clamps.

Remove

7

Install

the stabilizer bar bracket bolts and

remove the brackets.

19

Rear shock absorber - removal and installation

it

the steering rod and

6

Remove

4 Remove the rear muffler hanger retaining bolts. 5 Make a mark on the stabilizer bar and chassis for reassembly purposes and remove the bar from the vehicle. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Be sure to install 6 the bar with the mark on the correct side of the vehicle.

the clamps and slide the boot

off (see illustrations). Before installing the new boot, wrap the threads and serrations on the 4 end of the steering rod with a layer of tape so the small end of the new boot

groove

to illustration 18.2

Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Remove the stabilizer bar-to-stabilizer bar link attaching bolts (see il-

lustration).

Steering gear boots - replacement

Refer

Rear stabilizer bar - removal and installation

Specifications.

the tape and

install

the tie-rod end (see Section

1

Chapter 1 Have the alignment checked by a dealer service department or an

8 alignment shop.

in

to illustrations 19.4, 19.5

and

19.6

6).

the wheel and lug nuts. Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug

nuts to the torque listed

Refer

Removal Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Support the lower control arm with a floor jack to prevent it from dropping when the shock absorber is disconnected. The jack must remain in 1

2

)

Chapter 10

18.2

Remove the from the

this position

Open

bolt

and nut (arrow)

stabilizer bar link

19.4 The rear shock absorber ARC actuator can be removed from the shock by pinching the retainer tabs and lifting it off

throughout the entire procedure.

19.5 Location of the upper mounting nut of the rear shock absorber (standard suspension shown) - note the hex area at the top for using a wrench in case the rod turns when the nut is removed

nect the electrical connector.

compartment and remove the side trim panel. 4 On models equipped with ARC (Automatic Ride Control), remove the cover, disconnect the ARC actuator electrical connector, squeeze the retaining tabs and lift the actuator from the top of the shock absorber (see 3

10-15

Suspension and steering systems

the rear

10

Install

20

Rear

the side trim panel inside the trunk.

coil

spring - removal and installation

illustration).

Remove the upper mounting nut from the shock absorber rod (see ilmay be necessary to prevent the rod from turning by holding

5

lustration).

Refer

with a

from the vehicle.

Removal 1

Place the inner washer and rubber insulator on the shock rod and

in-

through the upper mounting hole. Push up on the shock absorber to align the lower shock eye in the mounting bracket and install the sert the rod

and

8

Install

nut, tightening

9

them

securely.

the upper mounting rubber insulator and the dished

the shock rod.

Install

Loosen the wheel

lug nuts, raise the rear of the vehicle

securely on jackstands placed under the frame.

2

bolt

20.4 and 20.6

Remove

and support

the nut and tighten

On models equipped

with

ARC,

it

install

washer on

secureiy.

the

ARC actuator and

recon-

Remove

the rear stabilizer bar (see Section 18)

if

the vehicle

REAR SPRING

SPRING CAGES

SPRING

CAGES 086-00031

(WtTH ADJUSTERS)

OUTBOARD SIOE OF SPRING

Location of the shock lower mounting bolt and nut

is

equipped with one. Disconnect the parking brake cables at the rear brake caliper or drum 3 (see Chapter 9). 4 Install three rear spring compressors (Ford tool number 086-00031 to the coil spring (see illustration). Note: Be sure to stagger the three compressing tools at 120-degrees to each other. 5 Position a floor jack under the lower control arm of the side being disassembled.

ASSY

19.6

it

the wheel and

block the front wheels.

Installation 7

to illustrations

It

wrench or locking pliers. Remove the lower mounting bolt and nut (see illustration), pull the 6 bottom of the shock absorber out of the mounting bracket and remove it it

20.4

Position the coil spring compressor tools as

shown

4 5 6 8 1 3 7

1 4 6 3 5

10-16

Remove the nuts and bolts from the

6

21 .3 Remove the upper control arm-to-knuckle assembly bolt and nut (A) then the inner control arm-to-sub-frame bolt and nut (B)

Remove the lower control arm-to-knuckle bolts

20.6

sembly (see

Suspension and steering systems

Chapter 10

lower control arm-to-knuckle as-

arm

to the body.

Remove the shock absorber lower mounting bolt and nut (see Section

8

of the

Be sure to mark the relationship camber adjusting washer to the

subframe before removing the lower control arm pivot bolts and nuts

under the lower arm and raise

it

slightly.

It

must remain

in this

position throughout the entire procedure.

illustration).

Support the rear knuckle and caliper assembly by wiring the upper

7

control

floor jack

21 .11

19).

Remove the upper arm-to-knuckle bolt and nut (see illustration). 3 Remove the upper arm-to-frame pivot bolt and nut and remove the 4 upper control arm from the vehicle. Installation

Mark the position of the lower control arm cam to keep the toe adjustment correct for reassembly. Loosen but do not remove the lower control arm pivot bolts. 1 Slowly lower the jack until the spring can be removed. 1 Remove the coil spring and insulators from between the suspension arm and the spring upper seat. Note: Make a note to remember the position of the pigtail (or the end of the coil spring) and the chassis to aid in reassembly. Note: If the coil springs must be replaced with new ones, carefully separate the compressing tools from the coil spring using Ford special tool number D78P-5310-A or equivalent.

Raise the floor jack until the vehicle just raises off the jackstand. Tighten the nuts to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. 7 Install the rear wheels and tighten the lug nuts to the torque listed in the Chapter 1 Specifications. Have the alignment checked at a dealer service department or other repair shop.

Installation

Lower arm

9

Set the upper insulator on top of the spring, using tape place, if necessary. 1 Place the lower insulator on the lower suspension arm.

12

Install

1

the

coil

spring compressor (see Step

being replaced with 1

1

1

)

if

1

it

in

the coil springs are

position as

it

was

arm

is in

the ex-

prior to removal.

Raise the suspension lower arm up into position and install the pivot and nuts into the knuckle assembly, but don't fully tighten the nuts

bolts yet.

1 Raise the lower control arm to simulate a normal ride height and tighten the pivot bolt nut to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. 1 If the vehicle is equipped with a rear stabilizer bar, install it, referring to

Section 18

if

arm

Position the control

bolts

and

Refer

8

install

the pivot

to illustration

21.11

Loosen the wheel

lug nuts, raise the rear of the vehicle rails.

and support

it

Block the front

wheels and remove the rear wheel. 9 1

Remove the coil spring following the procedure outlined in Section 20. Remove the toe compensating link from the lower control arm.

Mark the position of the camber adjustment washer on the pivot boltto Remove the lower arm-to-frame pivot bolts and nuts (see illustration), then remove the arm from the vehicle. 1

the subframe.

Installation

Note: The Ford Motor Company recommends installing when reassembling the suspension components.

new

fasteners

necessary.

arm attachment. If the cap is cracked, replace with a new one. Install the lower control arm but do not tighten the nuts completely at this time. Align the matchmarks made on the camber adjustment washer and subframe. 1 Install the toe compensating link to the control arm and the sub-frame. 1 Install the coil spring and connect the outer end of the control arm to the knuckle assembly. Position a floor jack under the lower arm and raise it 12

Rear suspension arms - removal and installation

Upper arm Refer to

mounting bosses and

fasteners

6

Inspect the large nut used at the inner front

plastic

21

in its

new

nuts.

securely on jackstands placed under the frame

Place the spring between the suspension arm and the frame, so that

same

5

installing

Removal

new ones.

the pigtail (the end of the spring) on the suspension lower act

to hold

Note: The Ford Motor Company recommends when reassembling suspension components.

illustration

21.3

until

Removal Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands rails. Block the front wheels. Support the knuckle and hub assembly with wire so that it cannot 2 swing outward when disconnected from the upper control arm. Place a

it

the vehicle just

torque values

lifts

1

nuts to the torque listed

Have

the jackstand, then tighten the nuts to the

Chapter's Specifications.

the wheel and lug nuts. Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug

Install

1

placed beneath the frame

1

off

listed in this

in

the Chapter

1

Specifications.

the alignment checked at a dealer service department or other

repair shop.

3 4 5 6 7 8

1

Chapter 10

10-17

Suspension and steering systems METRIC HUB REMOVER ADAPTER

HUB INSTALLER

HUB REMOVER/REPLACER

HOLD THIS

WRENCH

Use a special tool to push the half shaft from the hub assembly

22.1

STATIONARY

METRIC HUB REMOVER

ADAPTER

TURN THIS

WRENCH COUNTERCLOCKWISE

22.1 3

Remove the lower control arm-to-knuckle assembly bolts (arrows)

1

Use Ford

special tool

number T81

P-1 1 04-C or equivalent,

the halfshaft from the hub (see illustration).

22.11

Mark the position of the bushings

to

If

and push

this tool isn't available,

a

two-jaw puller can be used. Mark the position of the lower control arm to the knuckle with the bush1 ings in a relaxed position (see illustration). Note: when the upp"er control

keep proper

alignment with the lower control arm

arm bolt is removed from the knuckle,

the lower arm bushings return to the

relaxed position. Correct position of the bushings is vory important in order

22

avoid incorrect ride height and premature tire wear. If the knuckle is to be replaced, note the angle of the knuckle in the relaxed position by measuring the distance from the upper bushing to the

Rear suspension knuckle - removal and installation

to

12

Refer to

illustrations 22.

1

0,

22.

1 1

and 22. 13

vehicle body. Write the

Note The Ford Motor Company recommends the replacement of the hub retainer nut once it has been removed. :

port

2 3

Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts, raise the rear of the vehicle and supit securely on jackstands. Block the front wheels.

Remove the wheel. Remove the parking brake cable from the rear calipers or drums

(see

Chapter 9). 4 Remove the caliper (if equipped) (see Chapter 9). 5 Wire the caliper out of the way. Note: Be careful not to twist or kink the brake hose assembly. 6 Remove the brake disc or drum (see Chapter 9). 7 On disc brake models, remove the three bolts that retain the splash shield to the knuckle and remove the splash shield. 8 On drum brakes, disconnect the brake line from the wheel cylinder (see Chapter

9

Remove

arm

nut

and

bolt.

measurement down

for future reference.

the lower control arm-to-knuckle bolts and nuts (see illus-

Remove

the knuckle from the driveshaft.

Installation 1 Place the knuckle assembly on the driveshaft splines and install the lower control arm-to-knuckle assembly bolts and nuts. Position the knuckle assembly so that the index marks on the bushing (see Step 11)

up with the marks on the control arm. If a new knuckle is being inassembly in the approximate angle as noted before removal (see Step 12). Push the knuckle assembly onto the halfshaft and into the upper con1 trol arm connection. Install the upper control arm nut and bolt. hand Install a new hub nut onto the halfshaft and temporarily tighten 1 line

stalled, set the

it

tight. 1

Install

the splash shield (disc brake models) onto the

and tighten the three

9).

the upper control

Remove

tration). 1

Removal 1

1

tions.

hub assembly

bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifica-

9

1 1

10-18

Suspension and steering systems

Chapter 10 METRIC TIRE SIZES

mt Tin P T

C

\

/

rspict mho section height (SECTION WIDTH)

PASSENGER TEMPORARY COMMERCIAL

(

70 75 80

SCCTMN WIDTH (MIlllMETERS) IBS 195

(inches)

\

,

3

14

15

CONSTRUCTION TYPC R RADIAL

JOS ETC

The

illustration).

rear

end may only be ad-

Getting the proper wheel alignment is a very exacting process, one in which complicated and expensive machines are necessary to perform the job properly. Because of this, you should have a technician with the proper equipment perform these tasks. We will, however, use this space to give you a basic idea of what is involved with front end alignment so you can better understand the process and deal intelligently with the shop that

mSTmamctu

\

)

camber and toe-in (see camber and toe.

er,

justed for

80 R 13

BELTED

B

BIAS

D

DIAGONAL

does the work.

(BIAS)

Toe-in is

to

is

ensure

the turning

in

of the wheels.

parallel rolling of the

The purpose of a toe specification

wheels.

a vehicle with zero toe-in, the

In

will be the same as the distance between the rear edges of the wheels. The actual amount of toe-

distance between the front edges of the wheels in is

normally only a fraction of an inch. Front toe-in

rod end position on the tie-rod. Rear toe-in the lower

arm inner

properly by making

is

is

adjusted by the

set by turning a

pivot. Incorrect toe-in will cause the tires them scrub against the road surface.

cam to

tie-

bolt at

wear

im-

Camber is the tilting of the wheels from the vertical when viewed from

When the wheels When the wheels

the end of the vehicle. 23.1

A

Metric

tire

size

B

Section width

code

said to be positive

(+).

camber is camber is negdegrees from the vertical and

tilt

tilt

out at the top, the

in at

the top the

(-). The amount of tilt is measured in measurement is called the camber angle. This angle affects the amount of tire tread which contacts the road and compensates for changes in the suspension geometry when the vehicle is cornering or trav-

Section height

ative

this

1

Attach the brake line to the wheel cylinder (drum brake models) and

elling

attach the parking brake cables (see Chapter 9).

the brake drums or disc.

20

Install

21

Install

the rear brake calipers (see Chapter

22 23 24 25

Install

the parking brake cable onto the calipers (disc brake models).

Adjust the parking brake (see Chapter

over an undulating surface.

Front and rear camber

9).

9).

A

Caster is the tilting of the top of the front steering axis from the vertical. toward the rear is positive caster and a tilt toward the front is negative

tilt

Front caster is adjusted by moving the tension subframe. Rear caster is not adjustable.

hub caps.

tions. Install the

Vertical

s

FRONT Of ENGINE

"i

^P

VIEW A

1

12

Bumpers - removal and

2.4

Rear bumper details

installation

is

used, place a rag between

it

and the door to protect the

door's painted

surfaces.

Refer

to illustrations 12. 1a, 12.

1b

and

3 4

12.4

Removal

Scribe around the door hinges.

Remove the

hinge-to-door bolts and carefully

lustration).

1 Detach the bumper covers (see illustrations). The front bumper assembly is welded to the unibody structure and removal and installation should be left to a body shop. 2 Disconnect any wiring or other components that would interfere with

bumper removal. 3

Support the bumper with a jack or jackstand. Alternatively, have an bumper as the bolts are removed. Remove the retaining bolts and detach the bumper (rear only)(see il-

assistant support the

4

lustration).

Installation removal.

5

Installation is the reverse of

6

Tighten the retaining bolts securely.

7

Install

the

bumper cover and any

other

components

that

were

re-

moved.

13

Door - removal,

Refer

installation

and adjustment

to illustration 13.4

Removal 1 Remove the door trim panel (see Section 14). Disconnect any wire harness connectors and push them through the door opening so they won't interfere with door removal. 2 Place a jack or jackstand under the door or have an assistant on hand to support it when the hinge bolts are removed. Note: If a jack or jackstand

HINGE

13.4

Door hinge

details

lift

off

the door (see

il-

11

-10

Chapter

Body

11

CUP

SCREW

14.2

Door trim panel

SCREW

Installation

and adjustment

5

Installation

is

6

Following installation of the door, check the alignment and adjust

the reverse of removal. it if

necessary as follows:

WITHOUT POWER DOOR LOCKS

HOUSING

details

a)

Up-and-down and forward-and-backward adjustments are made by loosening the hinge-to-body bolts and moving the door as nec-

b)

The door

POWER WINDOW SWITCH

essary. lock striker

sideways nism. This

WITH POWER

can also be adjusted both up-and-down and engagement with the lock mecha-

to provide positive is

moving the

done by loosening the

striker pin with

a Torx-head tool

pin as necessary.

DOOR LOCKS SCREW

Door trim panel - removal and

14 '

POWER MIROR SWITCH

Ay/y J

installation

POWER WINDOW

J

'SWITCH

Refer to HOUSING

illustrations 14.2, 14.3, 14.4

and

14.5

Removal Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Remove all door trim panel retaining screws and door pull/armrest assemblies (see illustration). On manual window regulator equipped models, remove the window 3 crank. On power regulator models, remove the switch housing screw, pry 1

2

out the housing and unplug the switch (see illustration).

4

Dislodge the clips at the bottom edge, grasp the trim panel and rotate edge out, then lift the panel up to detach it from the door (see

the bottom

illustration).

Unplug any wire harness connectors and remove the

trim

panel from the vehicle.

5

For access to the inner door, carefully peel back the plastic water-

shield (see illustration).

Installation 6

Prior to installation of the

the panel which

main 7

in

the door

Plug

in

door panel, be sure

to reinstall

Switch housing details

clips in

itself.

the wire harness connectors and place the panel

in

position

in

window glass opening at the top of door, then rotate down into position and seat the clips at the bottom, then install the armrest/door pulls. Install the manual regulator window crank or power window switch assembly. it

14.3

any

may have come out during the removal procedure and re-

Chapter

14.4 Rotate the bottom of the trim panel out, then lift it up out of the glass opening at the top of the door

14.5

11-11

Body

11

Peel the watershield carefully off the door, so that it isn't torn or distorted

1

5.2

Remove the screw and lift the weatherstrip out of the door glass opening

WEATHERSTRIP

15.3

15

Door window glass - removal,

Refer

to illustrations

15.2

and

installation

Door glass

and adjustment

15.3

details

holes

in

the inner door panel.

washer (see

lizer

nut and

4

Remove the glass from

and out

of the

opening

Remove the two nuts, then

loosen the stabi-

illustration).

the door by tipping

at the top of the door,

it forward, then lifting toward the outside.

it

up

Removal the door trim panel and watershield (see Section 14).

Installation

the inside door belt weatherstrip (see illustration).

5

2

Remove Remove

3

Lower the glass until the two retaining nuts are accessible through the

1

Lower the glass into position, making sure and rear glass run retainers.

it

is

set

between the

front

1 2

11

-12

Chapter

PUSH BUTTON

Body

11

RETAINER

ACTUATOR ROD

ROD

LATCH

LATCH TO CYLINDER

ROD

SCREW VIEW A

PUSH BUTTON

LATCH TO CYLINDER

ROD

ROD

REMOTE CONTROL LINK

BUSHING

DOOR LATCH SHIELD BUSHING

REMOTE CONTROL ACTUATOR ROD

VIEWB

16.2

Door lock and remote control component layout

Adjustment Raise the glass to within three inches of the top of the door. sure the stabilizer nut and washer are loose, then with door open, seat the glass in the rear glass run (B pillar). Press down on the equalizer bracket and tighten the nut and washer 1 8

9

Make

securely. 1

Set the glass stabilizer so that it touches the glass

the nut and 1

16

16.4

6

The three door

Place the glass

en them securely. 7 Install the door

in

screws are accessible with the door open

latch retaining

position

in

the bracket,

belt weatherstrip.

install

the two nuts and tight-

slightly

and tighten

securely.

Cycle the glass several times to

make

sure

it

is

properly adjusted.

Door lock and remote controls - removal and

Refer 1

washer

to illustrations

16.2

Remove the door trim

and

installation

16.4

panel and peel the watershield back (see Sec-

tion 14).

2

Remove the remote

control

and the

control

assembly and disconnect the rod

at the

lock cylinder (see illustration).

Disconnect the push button rod and handle from the latch. Remove the three screws located in the end of the door and detach the latch (see illustration). Installation is the reverse of removal. 5 3 4

Chapter

11-13

Body

11

CONSOLE TOP PANEL

FLOOR CONSOLE

17.1

Console top panel

details

Center console - removal and installation

17

Console top panel to illustrations 1 7. 1 and 1 7.2 Open the console lid for access and remove the two retaining screws

Refer 1

(see illustration).

Remove the shift lever knob. On manual models this is accomplished by removing the two screws and detaching the upper part of the lever. On automatic models, push the detent button in and hold it, then pull up sharply to detach the knob from the lever (see illustration). 3 Rotate the rear of the panel forward, disconnect the electrical connectors, then detach the clips at the front edge and lift the panel from the ve2

hicle.

Console housing Refer 17.2

Press the automatic transmission detent button, then up sharply and detach the shift knob

.

CONSOLE

17.4

Console housing details

pull

4

to illustration 17.4

Remove the top panel and the stereo tape container or mat (see illus-

tration).

STEREO TAPE CONTAINER

1

11

18.1

-14

Use a

Chapter

Phillips screwdriver to

Body

11

remove the two bezel screws

1

Use a screwdriver

9.3

Remove the screws,

5

nectors, then

6

access cover

the housing up, disconnect the electrical con-

is

the reverse of removal.

Instrument cluster bezel - removal and installation

Refer

to illustration 18.

2

Remove the two screws along the top of the Remove the headlight switch (see Chapter

3

Detach the bezel and remove

4

Installation

1

1

9

is

bezel (see illustration). 1

2).

from the instrument panel. the reverse of removal. it

Outside mirror - removal and installation

Refer

to illustrations 19.3

and

19.4

2

On power mirror models, disconnect the negative Remove the door trim panel (see Section 14).

3

Pry

4

Remove the three nuts and detach the mirror from the door (see illus-

1

off

The mirror

is

held in place by three nuts

battery cable.

the mirror access hole cover (see illustration).

tration).

19.4

off

remove the housing.

Installation

18

lift

to pry the

5

On power

6

Installation is the reverse of removal.

models, unplug the electrical connector.

Chapter 12

Chassis

electrical

system

Contents Battery check

See Chapter 1 See Chapter 5 See Chapter 9

and maintenance

- removal and installation Brake light switch - replacement Battery

Bulb replacement Circuit

breakers - general information

Cruise control system

-

and check - general information

description

Electrical troubleshooting

Fuses - general information Fusible links

- general

information

General information Headlights - adjustment Headlight bulbs - replacement Headlight switch - replacement Ignition switch - removal and installation Ignition lock cylinder - removal and installation

1

14 5 21

2 3 4 1

13 12 18 10

and

Electrical troubleshooting

2

is a 1 2-volt, negative ground type. Power for the and all electrical accessories is supplied by a lead/acid-type battery which is charged by the alternator. This Chapter covers repair and service procedures for the various electrical components not associated with the engine. Information on the battery, alternator, distributor and starter motor can be found in Chapter 5. It should be noted that when portions of the electrical system are serviced, the negative battery cable should be disconnected from the battery

The electrical system

lights

and/or

fires.

19

installation

Wiring diagrams - general information

24

11

General information

to prevent electrical shorts

- removal and installation 17 - removal and installation 8 Neutral start switch - replacement See Chapter 7B Power window system - description and check 22 Power door lock system - description and check 23 Relays - general information 6 Radio antenna - check and replacement 16 Radio/CD player and speakers - removal and installation 15 Rear window defogger - check and repair 20 Steering wheel switches - removal and installation 9 Turn signal/hazard flasher - check and replacement 7 Windshield wiper/washer switch and motor - removal Instrument cluster

Multi-function switch

A

- general information

typical electrical circuit consists of

an

electrical

component, any

switches, relays, motors, fuses, fusible links or circuit breakers related to that

component and the wiring and connectors

that link the

component to

both the battery and the chassis. To help you pinpoint an electrical

problem, wiring diagrams are included at the end of

this

Before tackling any troublesome electrical circuit,

first

circuit

book.

study the appro-

diagrams to get a complete understanding of what makes up that individual circuit. Trouble spots, for instance, can often be narrowed down by noting other components related to the circuit are operating properly. If several components or circuits fail at one time, chances are the priate wiring

if

,

12-2

Chassis

Chapter 12

electrical

The high current fuse block is next to the battery the engine compartment

3.1b

The standard fuse block

3.1a

is

located under the

left

system

in

side of

the instrument panel, behind a cover

problem

is in

a fuse or ground connection, because several circuits are same fuse and ground connections.

of-

ten routed through the

problems usually stem from simple causes, such as loose blown fuse, a melted fusible link or a bad relay. Visually inspect the condition of all fuses, wires and connections in a problem circuit before troubleshooting it. If testing instruments are going to be utilized, use the diagrams to plan ahead of time where you will make the necessary connections in order to Electrical

or corroded connections, a

accurately pinpoint the trouble spot.

The basic tools needed tester or voltmeter (a

1

a circuit a set of test leads can also be used)

for electrical troubleshooting include

2-volt bulb with

a continuity tester, which includes a bulb, battery and set of test leads, and a jumper wire, preferably with a circuit breaker incorporated, which can be used to bypass electrical components. Before attempting to locate a prob-

lem with

make

test instruments,

use the wiring diagram(s)

to

decide where to

the connections.

To test for a blown fuse, pull it out and inspect it for an open (1), then, with the circuit activated, use a test light

3.2

Voltage checks Voltage checks should be performed

if

a

circuit is not functioning

across the terminals

prop-

(2)

Connect one lead of a circuit tester to either the negative battery terminal or a known good ground. Connect the other lead to a connector in

erly.

the circuit being tested, preferably nearest to the battery orfuse.

If

the bulb

which means that the part of the circuit between the connector and the battery is problem free. Continue checking the rest of the circuit in the same fashion. When you reach a point at which no voltage is present, the problem lies between that point and the last test point with voltage. Most of the time the problem can be traced to a loose connection. Note: Keep in mind that some circuits receive voltage only when the ignition key is in the Accessory or Run position. of the tester lights, voltage is present,

Continuity check A continuity check is done to determine cuit -

circuit),

One method of finding shorts in a circuit is to remove the fuse and con-

is

passing

electricity properly.

if

there are any breaks

With the

circuit off

in

(no power

a self-powered continuity tester can be used to check the

a cirin

the

circuit.

Connect the test leads to both ends of the circuit (or to the "power" end and a good ground), and the test light comes on the circuit is passing if

come on,

a break somewhere a switch, by connecting the continuity tester to the switch terminals. With the switch turned On, the test light should come on.

current properly. in

Finding a short

if it

the

circuit.

If

the

light

doesn't

there

The same procedure can be used

is

to test

nect a test

light or voltmeter in its place to the fuse terminals. There should be no voltage present in the circuit. Move the wiring harness from side-toside while watching the test light. If the bulb goes on, there is a short to ground somewhere in that area, probably where the insulation has rubbed through. The same test can be performed on each component in the circuit, even a switch.

Ground check Perform a ground test to check whether a component is properly grounded. Disconnect the battery and connect one lead of a selfpowered

known as a

Finding an open circuit When diagnosing for possible open circuits, them by

sight

because oxidation

it

is

often

difficult to

locate

or terminal misalignment are hidden by

the connectors. Merely wiggling a connector on a sensor or

in

the wir-

may correct the open circuit condition. Remember this when an open circuit is indicated when troubleshooting a circuit. Intermittent problems may also be caused by oxidized or loose connections. ing

harness

Electrical troubleshooting is simple circuits are basically electricity

if

you keep in mind that all

electrical

running from the battery, through the wires,

known good ground. Connect

switches, relays, fuses and fusible links to each electrical component (light

the other lead to the wire or ground connection being tested. If the bulb goes on, the ground is good. If the bulb does not go on, the ground is not

Any electrical problem is an interruption in the flow of electricity to and from

good.

the battery.

test light,

continuity tester, to a

bulb, motor, etc.)

and to ground, from which

it

is

passed back to the battery.

1

Chapter 12

Chassis

electrical

12-3

system

Some cartridge fusible links are held in place by bolts which must be loosened before removing the link. Fusible links cannot be repaired, but a new link of the same size wire can be put in its place. The procedure is as follows: a) b) c)

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Disconnect the fusible link from the wiring harness. Cut the damaged fusible link out of the wiring just behind the connector.

back approximately 1/2-inch.

d)

Strip the insulation

e)

Position the connector on the

new

fusible link

and crimp

it

into

place.

Use

f)

rosin core solder at

solder g)

Use

each end

of the

new

link to

obtain a

good

joint.

plenty of electrical tape around the soldered

joint.

No

wires

should be exposed. h)

Connect the battery ground cable. Test the circuit for proper operation.

ELECTRICAL WIRING

CONNECTOR Circuit breakers

5

TURN SIGNAL/ HAZARD FLASHER

FRONT OF

- general information

Circuit breakers protect components such as power windows, power door locks and headlights. Some circuit breakers are located in the fuse

VEHICLE

box.

On some models the

The turn signal/hazard

7.1

flasher

is

circuit breaker resets itself automatically, so an a circuit breaker protected system will cause the circuit to fail momentarily, then come back on. If the circuit does not come back on, check it immediately. Once the condition is corrected, the circuit breaker will resume its normal function.

located to the right of

the steering column

in

Fuses - general information

3

Relays - general information

6 Refer to

The

illustrations 3.1a,

blocks,

3.1b and 3.2

electrical circuits of the vehicle are protected

fuses, circuit breakers

left

overload

electrical

one

for

and

fusible links.

standard fused located under the instrument panel on the

side of the dashboard and

Several electrical accessories

by a combination of

These models have two fuse

one for high current fuses in the engine com-

partment, adjacent to the battery (see illustrations). Disconnect the bat-

Note: The manufacturer recommends that high capacity fuses be replaced by a deal-

tery negative cable before replacing high current fuses.

electrical signal to the will

component.

in If

the vehicle use relays to transmit the the relay

is

defective, that

component

not operate properly.

The various

relays are grouped together in several locations. a faulty relay is suspected, it can be removed and tested by a dealer service department or a repair shop. Defective relays must be replaced as a unit. If

er or qualified electrical technician.

Miniaturized fuses are employed in the fuse block in the passenger compartment. These compact fuses, with blade terminal design, allow fingertip removal and replacement. If an electrical component fails, always check the fuse first. A blown fuse is easily identified through the clear plastic body. Visually inspect the element for evidence of damage (see illustration). If a continuity check is called for, the blade terminal tips are

exposed in the fuse body. Be sure to replace blown fuses with the correct type. Fuses of different ratings are physically interchangeable, but only fuses of the proper rating

should be used. Replacing a fuse with one of a higher or lower value than is not recommended. Each electrical circuit needs a specific amount of protection. The amperage value of each fuse is molded into the

specified

fuse body. If

it

again

until

the

cause of the problem is isolated and corrected. In most cases, the cause will be a short circuit in the wiring caused by a broken or deteriorated wire.

Fusible links - general information

Some circuits cuits

Turn signal/hazard flasher - check and replacement

Refer 1

to illustration

The

7.

turn signal/hazard flasher, a small rectangular-shaped unit

are protected by fusible

which are not

ordinarily fused,

links.

The

such as the

links

are used

in

a

clip

faulty turn signal bulb

3

If

is

both turn signals

indicated. fail

to blink, the

problem may be due

are used on some models. Cartridge fusible links are located in the engine compartment fuse block and, after disconnecting the negative battery cable, are simply unplugged and replaced by a unit of the same amperage.

a blown If

4 To replace the flasher, simply pull it out of the clip on the steering column. Make sure that the replacement unit is identical to the original. Com5 pare the old one to the new one before installing it. 6 Installation is the reverse of removal.

in cir-

addition to the conventional type of fusible link described below (located in the wiring harness), cartridge fusible links, similar to a large fuses,

to

open connection.

a quick check of the fuse box indicates that the turn signal fuse has blown, check the wiring for a short before installing a new fuse.

ignition circuit.

In

lo-

on a bracket to the right of the steering column, flashes the turn signals or hazard flasher (see illustration). 2 When the flasher unit is functioning properly, an audible click can be heard during its operation. If the turn signals fail on one side or the other and the flasher unit does not make its characteristic clicking sound, a cated

fuse, a faulty flasher unit, a broken switch or a loose or

the replacement fuse immediately fails, don't replace

4

7

8

Multi-function switch

Refer

to illustrations

- removal and

installation

8.3a and 8.3b

1

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.

2

Remove

the steering column cover.

2 1 3 4 5

12-4

8.3a

Chapter 12

Remove the two

Chassis

electrical

system

8.3b Use a small screwdriver to release the latch so the electrical connector can

multi-function

switch bolts (arrows)

9.2a

Grasp the horn pad securely and it off the steering wheel

pull

be unplugged ACTUATOR

PIN

SLIDER PIN SLOT "RUN" POSITION

9.2b

Unplug the switch connector IGNITION SWITCH

3

Remove

the two retaining bolts, pull the switch out, unplug the con-

nector and withdraw the switch assembly from the steering column (see

10.9

4

Plug

in

when

the electrical connector, place the switch

in

position

pin slot must be in the the switch is installed

The switch actuator

illustrations).

Run

position

and install

the screws. Tighten the bolts securely.

5 6

9

Install the steering column cover. Connect the negative battery cable.

Steering wheel switches

Refer 1

2

to illustrations

- removal and

Remove the four nuts retaining the steering column to the bracket and lower the column for access to the switch screws.

3

installation

9.2a and 9.2b

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Grasp the horn pad securely and detach it from the steering wheel

4 5 6 7 8

Unplug the

use a small screwdriver to gently pry the switch from the steering wheel and remove it. 4 Installation is the reverse of removal. electrical connector,

the upper steering column cover. Unplug the ignition switch electrical connector. Turn the ignition key lock cylinder to the Run position. Remove the two switch retaining screws. Disengage the ignition switch from the actuator pin.

Installation

(see illustrations). 3

Remove

9

Make sure the actuator pin slot in the new ignition switch

position (see illustration). Note:

be set 1

10

Ignition switch

- removal and

installation

1

to illustration 10.9

Removal 1

2

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Remove the screws and detach the lower steering column cover.

Run

new switch in position on the actuator pin and install the remay be necessary to move the switch back and forth to It

up the screw holes. Plug the electrical connector into the switch.

the upper steering column cover. Raise the steering column into position and install the retaining nuts. Tighten the nuts securely. Note: If there are any clips on the steering column studs, remove them before installing the nuts. 1 Install the steering lower column cover. 1

Refer

the

in this position.

Place the

taining screws. line

is in

A new replacement switch assembly will

Install

1

1

Connect the negative battery cable.

1

Chapter 12

11.7

With the lock cylinder

in

the

Run

12.3

depress the release lever with a punch or screwdriver and pull the

position,

Ignition lock cylinder

Refer

- removal and

electrical

12-5

system

Use a screwdriver to hold the way and slide

1 2.4 Rotate the bulb holder counterclockwise and pull it out of the housing

retaining clip out of the

the electrical connector off the bulb holder

cylinder out

11

Chassis

installation

to illustration 11.7

Removal Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Remove the steering wheel (see Chapter 10). If your vehicle is equipped with a tilt column, remove the steering 3 umn upper cover. 4 Remove the retaining screws and detach the column cover. 1

2

Locate the electrical lead

col-

key warning buzzer (the insulated it back to the pigtail connector near the multi-terminal connector for the ignition switch and unplug it. 6 Turn the ignition switch to the Run position. 7 Place a 1/8-inch punch in the hole in the casting surrounding the lock cylinder. Depress the punch while pulling out on the lock cylinder to remove it from the column housing (see illustration). 5

for the

single wire coming out of the key lock cylinder housing), trace

The adjustment screws (arrows) are accessible from the back of the headlight housing

13.1

Installation 8

Install

the lock cylinder by turning

it

to the

Run

position

and depress-

ing the retaining pin. Insert the lock cylinder into the lock cylinder housing.

Make sure the cylinder is completely seated and aligned in the interlocking washer before turning the key to the Off position This will permit the retain-

6

Insert the

new bulb

into the holder

and

rotate

it

clockwise to seat

it

in

the holder.

7

Install

the bulb holder

in

the headlight assembly.

.

extend into the hole. Turn the lock to ensure that operation is correct in all positions. The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal.

ing pin to

9 10

13

Headlights - adjustment

Refer

12

Headlight bulbs - replacement

Refer

to illustrations 12.3

Warning Halogen gas :

and

filled

12.4

bulbs are under pressure and may shatter if

the surface is scratched or the bulb is dropped. Wear eye protection and handle the bulbs carefully, grasping only the base whenever possible. Do not touch the surface of the bulb with your fingers because the oil from your skin could cause it to overheat and fail prematurely. If you do touch the bulb surface, clean it with rubbing alcohol.

to illustration 13.

Note: The headlights must be aimed correctly. If adjusted incorrectly they could blind the driver of an oncoming vehicle and cause a serious accident or seriously reduce your ability to see the road. The headlights should be checked for proper aim every 12 months and any time anew headlight is installed or front end body work is performed. It should be emphasized that the following procedure is only an interim step which will provide temporary adjustment until the headlights can be adjusted by a properly equipped shop. 1

Headlights have two spring loaded adjusting screws, one on the top

up-and-down movement and one on movement (see illustration).

controlling

the side controlling

left-

1

and-right

tion).

There are several methods of adjusting the headlights. The simplest method requires a blank wall 25 feet in front of the vehicle and a level floor. Position masking tape vertically on the wall in reference to the vehicle 3 centerline and the centerlines of both headlights.

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 2 Open the hood. 3 Reach behind the headlight assembly and unplug the electrical connector, using a screwdriver to hold the clip out of the way (see illustra-

4

Grasp the bulb holder and turn counterclockwise to remove Lift the holder assembly out for access to the bulb. Push in and rotate the bulb counterclockwise to remove it

illustration).

5

it.

it

(see

2

4

Position a horizontal tape line

headlights. Note:

vehicle

It

in

reference to the centerline of

all

the

may be easier to position the tape on the wall with the

parked only a few inches away.

1

12-6

Chassis

Chapter 12

electrical pry

them

off

system

(see illustration).

Some are removed by pushing in and them counterclockwise (see illustration). Others can simply be undipped from the terminals or pulled straight out of the socket (see illus3

Several types of bulbs are used.

turning

tration).

4 will

LAMP

To gain access to the instrument panel lights, the instrument cluster to be removed first (see illustration).

have

Radio/CD player and speakers - removal and

15

1

installation

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.

Radio/CD player Refer

to illustration 15.4

Removal DOME LAMP

2

Remove

3

For theft protection, the radio receiver and

retained

The dome lamp can be replaced

14.2

in

the instrument cluster bezel (Chapter 11).

CD player assemblies are

the instrument panel by special clips. Releasing these clips re-

quires the use of two Ford removal tools T87P-19061-A, or two short

after prying off the lens

lengths of coathanger wire bent into U-shapes. Insert the tools into the

holes at the corners of the radio/CD player assembly

Adjustment should be made with the vehicle sitting and no unusually heavy load in the vehicle.

5

level, the

gas tank

4

half-full

Starting with the low

6

beam

pull

move

If

feel the in-

With the clips released,

flex

outward simultaneously on both tools and

connectors and remove

trical

it

from the vehicle (see illustration).

Installation 5

Plug

in

the electrical connectors and slide the radio or CD player along

the track and into the instrument panel

until

the clips can be felt snapping

in

place.

beam left or right. high beams on, the high

the

intensity zone should be vertically 7 With the centered with the exact center just below the horizontal line. Note: It may not be possible to position the headlight aim exactly for both high and low

beams.

you

the assembly out instrument panel, disconnect the antenna and elec-

adjustment, position the high intensity

zone so it is two inches below the horizontal line and two inches to the right of the headlight vertical line. Adjustment is made by turning the top adjusting screw clockwise to raise the beam and counterclockwise to lower the beam. The adjusting screw on the side should be used in the same manner to

until

ternal clips release.

a compromise must be made, keep

in

mind that the low beams

Speakers Door mounted Refer

are the most used and have the greatest effect on safety. Have the headlights adjusted by a dealer service department or ser8

6

vice station at the earliest opportunity.

trical

7

to illustrations

15.7a

and 15.7b

Remove the door trim panel (see Chapter 11). Remove the mounting screws, withdraw the speaker, unplug the elecconnector and remove the speaker from the vehicle (see illustra-

tions).

8

14

Bulb replacement

Installation

Refer Refer

to illustrations 14.2, 14.3a,

The lenses of many

1

a simple procedure

is

the reverse of removal.

Rear quarter panel mounted

lights

to gain

14.3b

are held

access

and

in

14.4

place by screws, which

makes

it

to the bulbs.

On some lights the lenses are held in place by clips. The lenses can be removed either by unsnapping them or by using a small screwdriver to

10

the speaker

Pry

1

Remove the retaining screws, withdraw the speaker,

trical

2

to illustration 15.

9

off

grille.

unplug the elecconnector and remove the speaker from the vehicle (see illustra-

tion). 1

Installation

is

the reverse of removal

H* Turn the bulb housing for the counterclockwise, lift it out, then remove the bulb by turning it counterclockwise

14.3a

taillight

14.3b

The center console bulb simply pulls straight out from

the socket

Turn the instrument cluster bulb holders counterclockwise, then lift them out

14.4

Chapter 12

Chassis

electrical

12-7

system

TRACK

SCREW

VIEW A

TRACK

COMPACT OISC PLAYER 15.4

15.7a

Remove the speaker screws

Radio and

with a Phillips screwdriver

CD

player details

15.7b

Pull the

NOISE

SUPPRESSION

COVER

speaker out and use a flat bladed screwdriver to detach the electrical connector

NOISE

WIRING ASSY

SUPPRESSION

MA488

COVER

TRIM PANEL TRIM

WIRING

PANEL RETAINING

SCREWS

SPEAKER

JBL LUXURY

SOUND

SYSTEM SPEAKER CONVENTIONAL SOUND SYSTEM

15.10

Details of the rear quarter panel

mounted speaker

1 2

12-8

Chassis

Chapter 12

electrical shown

in

the

system

accompanying

illustration

(see illustration).

If

any readings

are not as specified, replace the antenna and cable assembly.

Replacement MUST BE LESS THAN OR LOW SETTING

5.0

OHMS ON

XI

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2

Power antenna Lower the antenna. Remove the rear screws from the right side front splash shield for access and remove the lower antenna bolt (see illustration). 5 Remove the nut at the top of the antenna stanchion and remove the antenna through the fender opening. 3 4

6

Installation

is

the reverse of removal.

Manual antenna Detach the holding straps from the instrument panel and lower the

7

INFINITY (») ON X1000 SETTING OR HIGHEST

MUST BE

glove compartment.

RANGE AVAILABLE

Remove the screws and detach the right cowl side trim panel. Unplug the cable from the radio (see illustration). 1 Disengage the antenna cable from the clips and retainers along the top of the heater/air conditioning assembly (see illustration 16.9). 1 Remove the radio antenna base cap, remove the mounting screws, pull the base and cable assembly out through the holes in the door hinge pillar and remove the assembly from the vehicle (see illustration). 8

EXISTING

9

CABLE

CONNECTOR NOTE: CHECK AT TRIM PIECE ON FENDER AT BASE OF ANTENNA FOR POSITIVE CONNECTION.

Installation

1

16.1

the reverse of removal.

Instrument cluster - removal and installation

17

16

is

Antenna resistance check

Refer

Radio antenna - check and replacement

to illustration

17.5

Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2 Remove the instrument cluster bezel (see Chapter 11). Remove the four instrument cluster retaining screws. 3 4 Pull the cluster out and unplug the electrical connectors. charged models, disconnect the boost gauge vacuum hose. 1

Refer

to illustrations 16.

1,

16.4, 16.9

and

16.11

Resistance check 1 With the antenna cable installed on the vehicle and the cable unplugged from the radio, check the antenna with an ohmmeter at the points

5

umn

super-

Swing the bottom of the cluster out to clear the top of the steering colcover and remove it from the instrument panel (see illustration).

NUT WIRING

STANCHION

HINGE PILLAR

WIRING

MOTOR TUBE AND BRACKET FENDER FRONT OF VEHICLE

16.4

On

Power antenna

details

Chapter 12

Chassis

12-9

system

electrical

CLIP

ANTENNA RECEPTACLE

RADIO

\TO FRONT OF VEHICLE

X

16.9

Antenna cable routing WIRING

HINGE

VIEW A

details

NUT

STANCHION

PILLAR

FENDER

BASE

16.11

Antenna fender attachment and cable

details

INSTRUMENT PANEL WIRING

17.5

Remove the screws,

rotate the

bottom edge clear of the steering column, then

cluster out of the instrument panel

pull the

12-10

Chapter 12

Push the release lever in, then the knob out of the switch

18.2

Chassis

pull

The dimmer switch can simply be pried out

18.3

2 3

4

Refer

to illustrations 18.2

and

column cover.

the wiper switch

off

the steering

Wiper motor to illustrations 19.6,

removal.

19.7 and 19.8

arm release

5

pry the windshield wiper

6

Remove the left cowl vent screen (see illustration). Remove the vacuum manifold connectors from the wiper module as-

Use a screwdriver to and lift the wiper arm off.

lever out

sembly, unplug the electrical connectors, then remove the five screws and one nut and lift the wiper module out as an assembly (see illustration). 8 Remove the clip from the wiper motor and disconnect the wiper link-

Headlight switch - replacement

8

steering

Installation is the reverse of removal.

Refer

7 1

lift

switch.

The windshield wiper switch is held on the steering column by two screws

Installation is the reverse of

Remove the screws and detach the Remove the mounting screws and

of the bezel

column (see illustration). Unplug the electrical connector and remove the

WINDSHIELD WIPER/WASHER SWITCH

19.3

system

electrical

age drive arm from the motor (see illustration). 9 Remove the retaining nuts and lift the wiper motor from the wiper

18.3

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Detach the headlight switch knob by inserting a pointed tool into the release hole at its base and then pulling the knob out of the switch housing 1

2

module. 10 Installation

is

the reverse of removal.

(see illustration). 3

Pry the dimmer switch

(if

equipped) out of the bezel, unplug the elec-

4

remove (see illustration). Remove the screws and detach the instrument panel

5

Remove the

trical

connector, then

nut,

it

bezel.

20

Rear window defogger - check and repair

lower the switch, unplug the connector and remove

the switch from the vehicle.

6

Installation is the

reverse of removal.

Refer

to illustrations

20.9 and 20. 19

Check 19

Use a strong light inside the vehicle. Visually inspect the wire grid from A broken grid wire will appear as a brown spot. Run the engine at idle. Set the control switch to On. The indicator light

Windshield wiper/washer switch and motor - removal

1

and

the outside.

installation

2

should 1

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.

Wiper/washer switch Refer

to illustration

19.3

come

on.

Working inside the vehicle with a voltmeter, contact the broad red/ brown strips (the "bus") on the sides of the rear window. The meter should read 1 0-to-1 3 volts. A lower voltage reading indicates a loose ground wire (pigtail) connection at the grounded side of the glass. 3

Chapter 12

Chassis

electrical

12-11

system

SCREEN

COWL VENT

SCREW SCREW

SCREW

RETAINER

19.6

Cowl vent screen

details

SCREW

WIPER MODULE

VACUUM MANIFOLD ASSY

SCREW

1

4

9.7

Wiper module details

Contact a good ground point with the negative lead of the meter. The

5

c)

A

reading of 12-volts indicates that the circuit

is

broken between

the mid-point of the grid and ground.

voltage reading should not change.

With the negative lead of the meter grounded, touch each grid line of window at its midpoint with the positive lead: a) A reading of approximately 6-volts indicates that the line is good.

the heated rear

b)

A

reading of 0-volts indicates that the

line is

mid-point and the positive side of the grid

broken between the

line.

Repair Note: Any break

in

the grid longer than

one inch cannot be

repaired.

The

rear window must be replaced. For breaks less than one inch in length, use

1

12-12

Chapter 12

Chassis

electrical

system

AND SLIDE CLIP TO REMOVE ARM LIFT

WIPER LINKAGE DRIVE

ARM

NOTE: PUSH THE DRIVE ARM FIRMLY ONTO PIN UNTIL LOCKED IN PLACE

INSTALLATION

19.8

Wiper linkage connection details

USING CELLULOSE TAPE, MASK OFF THE AREA DIRECTLY ABOVE AND BELOW THE GRID BREAK THE BREAK AREA SHOULD BE AT THE CENTER OF THE MASK AND THE TAPE GAP MUST BE NO WIDER THAN THE EXISTING GRID LINE

BRUSH APPLICATOR GRID

APPLY BROWN TOUCH-UP PAINT TO THIS AREA FIRST WHEN BROWN LAYER OF GRID IS DAMAGED OR MISSING

TAPE

APPLY COATING AT LEAST 6.35mm ON BOTH SIDESOF BREAK

(1/4")

BREAK

20.9

Grid wire repair details

the following procedure. You will need to obtain grid repair compound and brown touch-up paint from a Ford dealer. Bring the vehicle inside and allow to reach room temperature, which 6 it

should be 60-degrees F or above. Clean the entire grid line repair area with glass cleaner or a suitable 7 cleaning solvent. Remove all dirt, wax, grease, oil or other foreign matter.

The

repair area

8 9

Mark the

must be clean and

location of the break

Using cellulose tape, mask

off

dry.

on the outside of the window. the area directly above and below the

The break area should be at the center of the mask and the tape gap must be no wider than the existing grid line (see illustration). 1 If both the brown and silver layers of the grid are broken or missing, apply a coating of the brown touch-up paint across the break area first. grid break.

Two coats may be necessary to obtain the proper color. Allow the touch-up paint to dry.

Apply three coats of the silver grid repair compound. Allow three to minutes drying time between coats. The coating of the silver grid repair compound should extend at least 1 /4-inch on both sides of the break. 1

five

8 4 5 6 7

Chapter 12

Chassis

12-13

system

electrical

er service department or a repair shop. However,

it

is

possible for the

home mechanic to make simple checks of the wiring and vacuum connecwhich can be easily repaired. These include:

tions for minor faults

Inspect the cruise control actuating switches for broken wires and

a)

loose connections.

Check the cruise control fuse. The cruise control system is operated by vacuum so it's critical that all vacuum switches, hoses and connections are secure. Check the hoses in the engine compartment for tight connections, cracks and obvious vacuum leaks. b)

c)

Power window system - description and check

22

The power window system operates the electric motors mounted in the doors which lower and raise the windows. The system consists of the control switches, the motors (regulators), glass mechanisms and associated wiring.

Because of the complexity of the power window system and the speand techniques required for diagnosis, repair should be left to a

cial tools

dealer service department or a repair shop. However,

20.19

Bus bar

repair details

it

is

possible for the

home mechanic to make simple checks of the wiring connections and motors for

minor faults which can be easily repaired. These include:

a)

Inspect the power window actuating switches for broken wires and

the brown layer of the grid is not broken or missing, apply only the

b)

Check

silver grid repair compound to the break. Alio wthe compound to dry for five

c)

Remove

loose connections.

Note

If

:

minutes, then

remove

the mask.

After If

power window fuse/and

nisms

or circuit breaker.

power window motor damaged. Inspect the glass mechadamage which could cause binding.

the door panel(s) and check the

wires to see

removing the mask, check the outside appearance of the grid compound is visible above or below the grid, this excess should be removed. This can be done by placing a single edge razor blade on the glass parallel to the grid and scraping gently towards the grid. Caution Be careful not to damage the grid line with the razor blade. 13 The repair coating will air dry in about one minute and can be energized within three to five minutes. Optimum hardness and adhesion occurs after approximately 24 hours. At that time, the repair area may be cleaned with a mild window cleaner. 12

repair.

the

for

if

they're loose or

the silver repair

Power door lock system - description and check

23

:

Lead wire terminal service 1

to 1

to 1

Allow the rear window to warm up to room temperature for a half hour an hour. Clean the bus bar in the area to be repaired using fine steel wool (3/0 4/0 grade). Restore the area where the bus bar terminal was originally attached

by applying three coats of grid repair compound. Allow approximately ten minutes drying time between coats. 1 Working as quickly as possible to avoid overheating the glass, tin the bus bar with solder in the area where the terminal will be reattached. 1 Using a heat gun or heat lamp, pre-heat the glass in the solder area to

between 1 20-degrees and 1 50-degrees F just prior to soldering the termi-

The power door lock system operates the door lock actuators mounted each door. The system consists of the switches, actuators and associated wiring. Since special tools and techniques are required to diagnose the system, it should be left to a dealer service department or a repair shop. However, it is possible for the home mechanic to make simple checks of the wiring connections and actuators for minor faults which can be easily repaired. These include: a) Check the system fuse and/or circuit breaker. b) Check the switch wires for damage and loose connections. Check in

the switches for continuity. c)

Remove tions to

the door panel(s) and check the actuator wiring connec-

see

if

they're loose or

damaged. Inspect the actuator rods

make sure they aren't bent or damaged. Inspect the actuator wiring for damaged or loose connections. The actuator can be checked by applying battery power momentarily. A discern(if

equipped) to

ible click indicates that

the solenoid

is

operating properly.

nal on.

19

on the bus bar in the area that was tinned and place with an ice pick or screwdriver (see illustration). Apply soldering heat to the pad of the terminal until the solder flows. Position the terminal

hold

it

in

20 Note To avoid damaging the bus bar, remove the soldering gun or iron as soon as the solder flows. 21 Start the vehicle, turn the heated rear window on and leave it on for :

minutes.

five

21

Cruise control system - description and check

The

cruise control system maintains vehicle

speed with a vacuum ac-

the engine compartment, which is connected to the throttle linkage by a cable. The system consists of the servo

tuated servo motor located

in

BK BR DB DG

GY LB LG N

Orange

Black

Brown

PK

Dark Blue Dark Green Gray Light Blue

P R

Light Green

Natural

motor, clutch switch, brake switch, control switches, a relay and associated

vacuum hoses.

Because of the complexity of the cruise control system and the special tools and techniques required for diagnosis, repair should be left to a deal-

24.4

Wiring color codes

Pink Purple

W

Red Tan White

Y

Yellow

T

12-14

Chapter 12

Chassis

electrical ers

24

Wiring diagrams - general information

(if

system

equipped) to make sure they're in good condition. Make sure the is properly charged and check the cable connections (see Chap-

battery ter 1).

Since it isn't possible to include all wiring diagrams for every year covered by this manual, the following diagrams are those that are typical and most commonly needed. Prior to troubleshooting any circuits, check the fuse and circuit break-

When checking a circuit, make sure that all connectors are clean, with no broken or loose terminals. When unplugging a connector, do not pull on the wires. Pull only on the connector housings themselves. Refer to the accompanying table for the wire color codes applicable to your vehicle.

"

Chapter 12

Chassis

III

Q

it;

83

OC"

2t UJ -i o -i X
-o CCU

CC

k^

CO CC

m •*

iii

6 •a

12-15

system

CO a.

l-Q OU *3 CO CO -1

electrical

*>

I

5 * en w|

CO

ST CO

< co CO CC CO

u

2

#

CC

^ ^ ^

#»

z

mQ -JCO

c 4>

O *E

o

ts a>

LU

Chapter 12

Chassis

electrical

system

12-29

o M 0)

"O

o E

2>

a

&

3 M

C a> o C e

S ui

12-30

Chapter 12

Chassis

electrical

system

a.

O w u HI H .i 7 u. Z O >|w o «CO

o CO at a>

oo E

o CO

O) L-

cno i-

« a 3 C o 0>

E >> (A

C o o c '5>

c a o c o a>

UJ

Chapter 12

Chassis

electrical

system

12-31

o CO

5 "O

o E

"O CD

a

E (0

>> (0

c o o a>

E "5»

c CU

o c o o UJ

,

12-32

Chassis

Chapter 12

electrical

system

o CO to

O

o -J

«t

O

^5 '#

4)

O f> *N W O Q < UJ 1- o < 1UJ CO z cc O T 3 UJ < O CO iT I > Z UJ X X UJ ^ UJ U CO !»•

'z_

r

HI

i_ UJ

>

w

—«rf 1

rr

I

oJ

UJ

X

1

v rv °°

»

n

(0

E

I

i

1

Q

& 3




c 4) O c o » UJ

12-36

Chapter 12

Chassis

electrical

system

Index About

this

manual: 0-5

Accelerator cable, removal and installation: 4-6 Accumulator, removal and installation: 3-12 Air cleaner housing assembly, removal and installation: 4-5 Air conditioner control assembly, removal and installation: 3-14 Air conditioning accumulator, removal and installation: 3-12 blower motor, removal and installation: 3-9 compressor, removal and installation: 3-12 condenser, removal and installation: 3-14

system check and maintenance: 3-11

system:

3-1

through 16

housing assembly, removal and installation: 4-5 replacement: 1-19 Alignment, wheel, general information: 10-18 Alternator brushes, replacement: 5-9 removal and installation: 5-9

Antenna, removal and installation: 12-8 Anti-lock brake system (ABS), general information: 9-2 Antifreeze draining

and

refilling:

1-30

general information: 3-2

Automatic Ride Control (ARC) system, general information: 10-2 Automatic transmission: 7B-1 through 6

cleaning: 2B-11

honing: 2B-12 inspection: 2B-11

Blower motor, heater and and installation: 3-9 Body: 11-1 through 15

change: 1-29 and filter, change:

fluid level,

1

-29

removal

maintenance: 11-1 repair

major damage: 11-3 minor damage: 11-2 Booster (brake), inspection, removal and installation: 9-19 Booster battery (jump) starting: 0-15 Boots, steering gear, replacement: 10-14

Brake system (ABS), general information: 9-2 and installation: 9-19 cables, removal and installation: 9-17 caliper (front), removal, overhaul and installation: 9-5 caliper (rear), removal, overhaul and installation: 9-9 disc (front), inspection, removal and installation: 9-7 Anti-lock brake

booster, inspection, removal

fluid

check: 1-12 installation:

type:

1-1

general information: 9-2

hoses and

general information: 7B-1

removal and

air conditioner,

bleeding: 9-16 level check: 1-8

diagnosis: 7B-1 fluid,

power steering system: 10-13 Block (engine)

Body

Air filter

fluid

brake system: 9-16 clutch: 8-6

general information: 11-1

general information: 3-2 Air conditioning

Bearing (main, engine), oil clearance check: 2B-17 Bearings, main and connecting rod, inspection: 2B-15 Belts (engine), check, adjustment and replacement: 1-15 Bleeding

7B-5

light bulb,

lines,

inspection

and replacement: 9-16

replacement: 12-6

removal and installation: 9-20 master cylinder, removal, overhaul and installation: 9-14 pads, check: 1-22 pads (front), replacement: 9-3 pads (rear), replacement: 9-9 parking, adjustment: 9-17 light switch,

B replacement: 12-6 Balljoint, check and replacement: 10-8

Back-up

light bulb,

Battery cables, check and replacement: 5-2

check and maintenance: 1-16 emergency jump starting: 5-2 removal and installation: 5-2 Battery

jump

starting: 0-15

Bearing (clutch release), removal and installation: 8-5

shoes, inspection and replacement: 9-9 system, check: 1-22

system bleeding: 9-16 wheel cylinder, removal, overhaul and installation: 9-13 Brakes: 9-1 through 20 Break-in (engine): 2B-20 Bulb, replacement: 12-6 Bumpers, removal and installation: 11-10

Buying parts: 0-8

3

IND-2

3

Index installation

and main bearing

clearance check: 2B-17

oil

removal: 2B-10

Cable and installation: 4-6 check and replacement: 5-2 parking brake, removal and installation: 9-17 Caliper (front brake), removal, overhaul and installation: 9-5 Caliper (rear brake), removal, overhaul and installation: 9-9 Camshaft and bearings, removal, inspection and installation: 2A-16 Carpets, maintenance: 11-2 accelerator, removal battery,

Catalytic converter: 6-8

Charging system check: 5-8 general information and precautions: 5-8 Chassis electrical system: 12-1 through 35 Chassis lubrication: 1-31 Chemicals and lubricants: 0-17

sensor, removal and installation: 5-4 Cruise control, description and check: 12-13 Cylinder block cleaning: 2B-11

honing: 2B-12 inspection: 2B-11 Cylinder compression check: 2B-3 Cylinder head cleaning and inspection: 2B-7 disassembly: 2B-7 reassembly: 2B-9 removal and installation: 2A-11 valves, servicing: 2B-9 Cylinder honing: 2B-12

Circuit breakers, general information: 12-3

Clutch bleeding: 8-6

components, removal, inspection and installation: 8-2 description and check: 8-2 disc, removal, inspection and installation: 8-2 fluid

level check:

1

-8

Dent repair major damage: 11-3 minor damage: 11-2 Diagnosis: 0-20 through 26 Differential

type: 1-1

carrier,

general information: 8-2

master

Defogger, rear window, check and repair: 12-10

cylinder, removal, overhaul

and

installation:

8-6

removal and

release bearing, removal and installation: 8-5

change: 1-32

slave cylinder, removal and installation: 8-5

check: 1-26

Clutch and driveline: 8-1 through 14 Clutch/starter interlock switch, Coil, ignition,

removal and

check and replacement: 8-7

installation: 5-3

pinion seal, replacement: 8-9

side

oil

seal,

replacement: 8-13

Disc, brake, inspection, removal

and

installation: 9-7

Disc brake

Coil spring

caliper (front), removal, overhaul

front

removal and installation: 10-6 replacement: 10-7 rear, removal and installation: 10-15 Compression, cylinder, checking: 2B-3

Compressor, removal and installation: 3-12 Condenser, removal and installation: 3-14 Connecting rods bearing inspection: 2B-15 inspection: 2B-13 installation and oil clearance check: 2B-18 removal: 2B-9

Console, removal and installation: 11-14 Constant Velocity (CV) joint, boot replacement and overhaul: 8-11 Constant Velocity (CV) joints and boots, check: 8-10 Control arm, front, removal and installation: 10-8 Converter (catalytic): 6-8 Coolant

type:

pads pads

(front),

(rear),

and installation: 9-5 and installation: 9-9

replacement: 9-3 replacement: 9-9

Distributor cap, check

and replacement: 1-27 removal and installation: 5-5 stator, check and replacement: 5-7 Distributor rotor, check and replacement: 1-27

Door lock system (power), description and check: removal, installation and adjustment: 11-10

1

2-1

trim panel, removal and installation: 11-11 window glass, removal, installation and adjustment: 11-12 Door lock and remote controls, removal and installation: 11-13 Drivebelt, check, adjustment and replacement: 1-15 Driveline: 8-1 through 14 Driveplate, removal and installation: 2A-22

inspection: 8-7

check: 1-8

recommended

caliper (rear), removal, overhaul

Driveshaft

general information: 3-2 level

8-13

installation:

lubricant

removal and

1-1

removal and installation: 3-7 temperature sending unit, check and replacement: 3-6 Cooling fan, check and replacement: 3-4 Cooling system: 3-1 through 16 check: 1-20 reservoir,

installation:

8-7

universal joints, replacement: 8-8

Drum brake wheel and

cylinder, removal, overhaul

installation: 9-13

coolant, general information: 3-2

general information: 3-2 servicing: 1-30

Core (heater), removal and installation: 3-10 Crankcase breather filter, replacement: 1-19

EECS (Evaporative Emission Control System): EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) system: 6-6

Crankshaft

Electric

front

oil

seal, replacement:

inspection:

2B-14

2A-20

door lock system, description and check: windows, description and check: 12-13

1

2-1

6-6

2

IND-3

Index Electrical

Front hub and wheel bearing assembly, removal and installation: 10-10 Front stabilizer bar, removal and installation: 10-5 Fuel filter, replacement: 1-19 lines and fittings, replacement: 4-2 pressure relief procedure: 4-2

system, general information: 12-1 troubleshooting, general information: 12-1

system (chassis): 12-1 through 35 systems (engine): 5-1 through 12 Electronic Engine Control (EEC-IV) system: 6-2 Emergency battery jump starting: 0-15 Emissions control systems: 6-1 through 8 Electrical

Electrical

pump

general information: 6-1

check: 4-2

Engine

removal and system

block cleaning: 2B-11

4-5

check: 1-19

inspection: 2B-11

general information: 4-2

coolant

tank

general information: 3-2 level

installation:

cleaning and repair: 4-5

check: 1-8

removal and installation: 4-4 Fuel injection system

coolant type: 1-1 cooling fan, check and replacement: 3-4 cylinder head, removal

and

installation:

drivebelts, check, adjustment

component removal and

2A-11

and replacement: 1-15

general information: 2A-2

installation:

4-7

general information: 4-6 pressure check: 4-7

Fuel system: 4-1 through 16 Fuses, general information: 12-3 Fusible links, general information: 12-3

mount, check and replacement: 2A-23 oil

change: 1-13 level

type:

check: 1-8 1-1

seal, replacement:

oil

2A-20

overhaul: 2B-1 through 20

disassembly sequence: 2B-6 general information: 2B-3 reassembly sequence: 2B-15 overhaul alternatives: 2B-4 overhaul general information: 2B-3 rebuilding, alternatives: 2B-4

Gauge Gear

installation:

automatic transmission: 7B-1 body: 11-1 brakes: 9-2

2B-5

repair operations possible with engine in vehicle:

clutch

2A-2

electrical

driveline: 8-2

and

air

conditioning systems: 3-2

system: 12-1

emissions control systems: 6-1 engine overhaul: 2B-3 fuel injection system: 4-6 fuel system: 4-2 ignition system: 5-2

manual transmission: 7A-1 suspension and steering systems: 10-2

general information: 6-6 4-1

and

cooling, heating

Engine electrical systems: 5-1 through 12 Engine emissions control systems: 6-1 through 8 Engine fuel and exhaust systems: 4-1 through 16 EVAP system: 6-6 Evaporative Emission Control System: 6-6 Exhaust, manifold, removal and installation: 2A-7 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system,

Exhaust system:

removal and installation: 12-8 removal and installation: 10-12

General information

removal, methods and precautions: 2B-4

removal and

cluster,

(steering),

tune-up: 1-8

through 16

check: 1-20 servicing, general information: 4-11

wheels and tires: 10-18 Generator (alternator), removal and installation: 5-9

H Fan, engine cooling, check and replacement: 3-4 Fault-finding: 0-20 through 26 Filter

automatic transmission, replacement: 1-29 fuel, replacement: 1-19 oil,

change: 1-13 system, replacement: 1-19

PCV Fluid

8-11

removal and installation: 8-10 Hand brake, adjustment: 9-17 Hazard flasher, check and replacement: 12-3 Head, cylinder, removal and installation: 2A-11 (cylinder)

disassembly: 2B-7

checks: 1-8 steering, checking:

CV joint, overhaul: 8-11 CV joint boot, replacement:

cleaning and inspection: 2B-7

checking: 1-12

power

check: 8-10

Head

automatic transmission change: 1-29 level

Halfshaft

1

-1

Fluids and lubricants: 1-1 Flywheel, removal and installation: 2A-22 Front fender, removal and installation: 11-4

reassembly: 2B-9 Headlight adjustment: 12-5

removal and

installation:

12-5

switch, replacement: 12-10

IND-4

Index

Heater blower motor, removal and installation: 3-9 core, removal and installation: 3-10 Heater control assembly, removal and installation: 3-14 Heating system: 3-1 through 16

Linings (brake) check: 1-22 inspection and replacement: 9-9 Lock (key), replacement: 12-5 Locks

maintenance: 11-3

general information: 3-2

power

Hinges, maintenance: 11-3 Honing, cylinder: 2B-12

Hood installation:

and check: 12-13

Lubricants: 0-17 Lubricants and fluids: 1-1 Lubrication, chassis: 1-31

adjustment: 11-3

removal and

door, description

Lower control arm, front, removal and installation: 10-8 Lubricant, manual transmission, checking: 1-24 11-3

Hoses brake, inspection and replacement: 9-16 check and replacement: 1-14 Hub and bearing (front), removal and installation: 10-10 Hydraulic clutch system, bleeding: 8-6

M Main and connecting rod bearings, inspection: 2B-15 Main bearing, oil clearance, check: 2B-17 Main bearing oil seal, installation: 2B-18 Maintenance

Identification

introduction: 1-8

numbers: 0-6

techniques: 0-8

Ignition

camshaft sensor/synchronizer assembly, removal and installation:. 5-4 coil and coil pack, removal and installation: 5-3 crankshaft sensor, removal and installation: 5-4 distributor

removal and installation: 5-5 check and replacement: 5-7 key lock cylinder, replacement: 12-5 module, replacement: 5-6 switch, removal and installation: 12-4

Maintenance schedule: 1-3 Manifold exhaust, removal and installation: 2A-7 intake, removal and installation: 2A-6 Manual transmission: 7A-1 through 4

general information: 7A-1 lubricant, check: 1-24

stator,

check: 5-2 general information: 5-2 Initial

seal, replacement:

7B-4

overhaul, general information: 7A-4

removal and installation: 7A-4 removal and installation: 7A-1 Master cylinder brake, removal, overhaul and installation: 9-14 clutch, removal and installation: 8-6 Module, ignition, replacement: 5-6 Mount, engine, check and replacement: 2A-23 Muffler, check: 1-20 shift lever,

system

timing,

oil

check and adjustment: 5-6 and break-in after overhaul: 2B-20

start-up

Injection (fuel)

system

check: 4-7

component removal and

installation:

4-7

Multi-function switch, removal

and

installation: 12-3

general information: 4-6

Instrument cluster, removal and installation: 12-8 cluster bezel, removal and installation: 11-15 Intake manifold, removal and installation: 2A-6 Intermediate shaft, removal and installation: 10-11 Introduction to the Ford Thunderbird/Mercury Cougar: 0-5

Neutral start switch, replacement and adjustment: 7B-4

Jacking: 0-16

Oil

Jump

starting: 0-15

N Neutral safety switch, check: 1-16

change: 1-13 filter, change: 1-13 level

check: 1-8

pan, removal and installation: 2A-17

pump, removal and

K Key lock

installation:

2A-19

seal

cylinder, replacement: 12-5

Knuckle, rear suspension, removal and installation: 10-17

engine:

2A 20 :

transmission: 7B-4 type:

1-1

main bearing, installation: 2B-18 Outside mirror, removal and installation: 11-15 Overhaul Oil seal,

engine: 2B-1 through 20 Lifters, valve,

removal, inspection and installation: 2A-15

general information: 2B-3 manual transmission, general information: 7A-4

IND-5

Index Overhaul (engine) alternatives: 2B-4

Rocker arms, removal, inspection and

installation:

2A-4

Rods (connecting)

disassembly sequence: 2B-6 initial start-up and break-in: 2B-20 reassembly sequence: 2B-15

2B-18

installation:

removal: 2B-9, 13 Rotation (tire): 1-20

Rotor brake, inspection, removal and check and replacement: 1-27 Routine maintenance: 1-1

Pads, brake, check: 1-22 (front brake), replacement: 9-3 (rear brake), replacement: 9-9 Pan, oil, removal and installation: 2A-17 Parking brake adjustment: 9-17

installation:

9-7

Pads Pads

and installation: 9-17 and installation: 9-19 Parking lamp bulb, replacement: 12-6 Parts, replacement: 0-8 PCV filter, replacement: 1-19 PCV valve, check: 1-19 Pilot bearing, inspection and replacement: 8-4 Pinion seal, replacement: 8-9 cables, removal pedal, removal

Piston installation:

2B-18

Safe automotive repair practices: 0-18 Safety: 0-18 Seal differential,

replacement: 8-13

pinion, replacement: 8-9

Seat belts, check: 1-16 Sending unit, cooling system temperature, check and replacement: 3-6

Sensor camshaft, removal and installation: 5-4 crankshaft, removal and installation: 5-4 Shift lever,

removal and

installation: 7A-1

2B-16 Pistons and connecting rods inspection: 2B-13 installation: 2B-18 installation and rod bearing oil clearance check: 2B-18 removal: 2B-9 Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system: 6-7

Shift linkage, adjustment:

Power

inspection and replacement: 9-9 Slave cylinder, removal and installation: 8-5 Smog control systems: 6-1 through 8 Spark plug

rings, installation:

brake booster, inspection, removal and installation: 9-19 door lock system, description and check: 12-13 window system, description and check: 12-13

Power steering check: 1-12

installation: 8-2

Propeller shaft inspection: 8-7 8-7

installation:

removal and installation: 4-5 oil, removal and installation: 2A-19 power steering, removal and installation: 10-12 water, removal and installation: 3-8 Pushrods, removal, inspection and installation: 2A-4 fuel,

Radiator coolant, general information: 3-2

and

refilling:

1-30

removal and installation: 3-3 Radio, antenna, removal and installation: 12-8 Radio/CD player, removal and installation: 12-6

main oil seal, installation: 2B-18 Rear window defogger, check and repair: 12-10 Rear,

Recommended

lubricants

and

fluids: 1-1

Relays, general information: 12-3 Release bearing (clutch), removal and installation: 8-5 Reservoir (coolant), removal and installation: 3-7

Rings (piston),

Shock absorber Shoes (brake)

(rear),

removal and

installation: 10-14

check: 1-22

installation:

Speakers, removal and installation: 12-6 Speed control system, description and check: 12-13 Spindle, front, removal and installation: 10-9 Stabilizer bar front, removal and installation: 10-5 rear, removal and installation: 10-14 Starter

Pump

draining, flushing

removal and installation: 10-6 replacement: 10-7

wires:

pump, removal and installation: 10-12 Pressure (tire), checking: 1-10 Pressure plate, removal, inspection and

removal and

7B-2

front

replacement: 1-26 1-27

bleeding: 10-13 fluid level,

Shock absorber,

2B-16

motor removal and

installation:

5-12

testing in vehicle: 5-11

neutral start switch, replacement

and adjustment: 7B-4

removal and installation: 5-12 Starter safety switch check: 1-16 check and replacement: 8-7 Starting system, general information: 5-11 Stator, distributor, check and replacement: 5-7 Steering gear boots, replacement: 10-14 removal and installation: 10-12 relay,

intermediate shaft, removal and installation: 10-11

pump

(power), removal and installation: 10-12 system, check: 1-21 wheel, removal and installation: 10-10

Steering system: 10-1 through 18

Supercharger and related components, removal and diagnosis: 4-11

general information: 4-11 lubricant level check: 1-29

installation: 4-11

IND-6

Index general information: 1-8

Suspension check and replacement: 10-8 rear knuckle, removal and installation: 10-17

introduction: 1-8

balljoint,

Turn signal bulb, replacement: 12-6

system, check: 1-21

Suspension and steering systems, general information: 10-2 Suspension arms, rear, removal and installation: 10-16 Suspension system: 10-1 through 18

flasher,

TV

check and replacement: 12-3

(Throttle Valve) cable, replacement

and adjustment: 7B-2

Switch brake

lights,

removal and

installation:

9-20

headlight, replacement: 12-10 ignition, removal and installation: 12-4 Switches, steering wheel, removal and installation: 12-4 Synchronizer assembly, removal and installation: 5-4

Taillight bulb,

Tank

Underhood hose check and replacement:

1--14

Universal joints, replacement: 8-8 Upholstery, maintenance: 11-2 Upper control arm, front, removal and installation: 10-8 Using this manual: 0-5

replacement: 12-6

(fuel)

cleaning and repair, general information: 4-5 removal and installation: 4-4

TDC

u

dead center), locating: 2A-12 Temperature sending unit, check and replacement: 3-6 Thermostat, check and replacement: 3-2 Throttle, valve, cable, replacement and adjustment: 7B-2 Throwout bearing, removal, inspection and installation: 8-5 Tie-rod ends, removal and installation: 10-14 Timing, ignition, check and adjustment: 5-6 Timing chain and sprockets, inspection, removal and installation: 2A-13 Timing chain cover, removal and installation: 2A-12 (top

Valve covers, removal and installation: 2A-2 Valve job: 2B-9 Valve lifters, removal, inspection and installation: 2A-15 Valve springs, retainers and seals, replacement in vehicle: 2A-5 Valves, servicing: 2B-9 Variable Assist Power Steering (EVO), general information: 10-13

VIN (Vehicle Identification Number): 0-6 Vinyl trim, maintenance: 11-2 Voltage regulator, replacement: 5-9

Tire

checking: 1-10 rotation: 1-20

Tires

and wheels, general information: 10-18

Washer pump, removal and

Tools: 0-8

Top Dead Center (TDC),

locating: 2A-12

Towing: 0-16 Transmission automatic, linkage lubrication: 1-24

mount, check and replacement: 7B-4 Transmission (automatic): 7B-1 through 6 diagnosis: 7B-1 fluid level,

check: 1-12

generaNnformation: 7B-1 removal and installation: 7B-5

Transmission (manual): 7A-1 through 4 general information: 7A-1 overhaul, general information: 7A-4

removal and installation: 7A-4 Troubleshooting: 0-20 through 26 electrical,

w

general information: 12-1

Trunk lid, removal, installation and adjustment: 11-5 Tune-up: 1-1

Water

installation: 12-10

pump

check: 3-7, 10

removal and

installation:

3-8

Wheel bearing

(front),

removal and

cylinder, removal, overhaul

steering, removal

and

installation:

and

10-10 9-13

installation:

installation:

10-10

Wheel alignment, general information: 10-18 Wheels and tires, general information: 10-18 Window, power, description and check: 12-13 Windshield and fixed glass, replacement: 11-3 washer fluid, level check: 1-8 wiper blades, inspection and replacement: 1-17 wiper motor, removal and installation: 12-10 wiper switch, removal and installation: 12-10 Wiring diagrams, general information: 12-14

Working

facilities:

0-8

HAYNES AUTOMOTIVE MANUALS NOTE: New manuals

are added to this list on a periodic basis. If you do not see a listing for your vehicle, consult your local Haynes dealer for the latest product information.

ALFA-ROMEO 531

Alfa

625

Romeo Sedan & Coupe 73 thru

449

AMC 694

Hornet, Gremlin

934

550

Jeep CJ - see JEEP (4 12) Mid-size models, Concord,

&

all

models

70 thru & Encore

Spirit

(Renault) Alliance

•1628 '83 *1

'83 thru '87

274 336 704

AUDI 162 615 428 1117

207

31 9

100 all models '69 thru 77 4000 all models '80 thru '87 5000 all models 77 thru '83 5000 all models 84 thru '88 Fox all models 73 thru 79

626 241 '1642

AUSTIN 049

•420

Healey 100/6 & 3000 Roadster '56 Healey Sprite - see MG Midget Roadster (265)

thru '68

'1

BLMC 260 527 •646

'831

1100, 1300 & Austin America 62 thru 74 Mini all models 59 thru '69 Mini all models 69 thru 88

348

'345

208

BMW 276 632 240

664

all

4

Century

(front

(829)

Buick, Oldsmobile & Pontiac Full-size Front wheel drive) all models '85 thru '90 S luick Electra, LeSabre and Park Avenue; Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royale, Ninety Eight

and Regency; Pontiac Bonneville Buick Oldsmobile & Pontiac Full-size (Rear wheel drive) Buick Electra 70 thru '84, Estate 70 thru '90, LeSabre 70 thru '79 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser 70 thru '90, Delta 88 70 thru '85,

Mid-size all rear-drive Regal & Century models with V6, V8 and Turbo 74 thru '87 Skyhawk - see GENERAL

'1337

Skylark

402 647 228 525 206

all

334 754

359

773

'654

78

thru

'558

310 all models 78 thru '82 510 & PL521 Pick-up '68 thru 73 510 all models 78 thru '81 610 all models 72 thru 76 620 Series Pick-up all models 73 thru 79 710 all models 73 thru 77 720 Series Pick-up - see NISSAN

'723

357 231

204 649

'1231

2000 MK Coupe all models 71 thru 75 2300 MK II Coupe all models 74 thru 78 2600 & 2800 V6 Coupe 71 thru 75 2800 Mk II V6 Coupe 75 thru 78 Mercury in-line engines - see FORD Mustang (654) Mercury V6 & V8 engines - see FORD Mustang (558) I

699 236 419

'1026

Pick-ups (771) 810/Maxima all gasoline models

'1421

'1418

thru '84

models 70 thru 73 F10 all models 76 thru 79 Pulsar see NISSAN (876) Sentra - see NISSAN (982) Stanza - see NISSAN (981) 1200

all

1338 *344

& Plymouth

'556

CHEVROLET

234

Astro & GMC Safari Mini-vans all models '85 thru '90 Camaro V8 all models 70 thru 81 Camaro all models '82 thru '89 Cavalier - see GENERAL MOTORS

'1140

Reliant

models '81 thru '88 Caravan & Plymouth Voyager

J-Cars (766) Celebrity - see GENERAL MOTORS A-Cars (829)

*

Listings

shown

with

updated

Haynes Publications

an asterisk

to

Inc.,

*91 2

Pick-ups

'349

Vans - Dodge & Plymouth V8 & 6 cyl models 71 thru '89

(') indicate

model coverage as

include later model years

Ranger & Bronco

II

all

gasoline

models '83 thru '89 Taurus & Mercury Sable 86 thru '90 Tempo & Mercury Topaz all gasoline models '84 thru '89 Thunderbird & Mercury Cougar/XR7 83 thru '88 Vans all V8 Econoline models '69 thru '90

A-Cars - Chevrolet Celebrity, Buick Century, Pontiac 6000 & Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera all models '82 thru 89 J-Cars - Chevrolet Cavalier, all models '82 thru '89 N-Cars - Pontiac Grand Am, Buick Somerset and Oldsmobile Calais

Tracker - see SUZUKI Samurai (1626) Prizm - see CHEVROLET Nova (1642)

GMC Safari - see

CHEVROLET ASTRO (1477)

Vans & Pick-ups - see

Omni & Plymouth Horizon all models 78 thru '89 models

models 70 thru 74 & Mercury Bobcat models 75 thru '80

GEO

'84 thru '88

full-size

78

all

'85 thru '87; Buick Skylark '86 thru '87

& Plymouth Champ (front wheel drive) all models 78 thru '87 D50 & Plymouth Arrow Pick-ups 79 thru '88 Dart & Plymouth Valiant all 6 cyl models '67 thru 76 Daytona & Chrysler Laser

all

thru

Pinto Pinto

Cimarron

*1420

thru '80

models

74

II, Mercury Montego, Comet, XR-7 & Lincoln Versailles (75 thru '86) Mustang & Mercury Capri all in-line models & Turbo 79 thru '90 Mustang & Mercury Capri all V6 & V8 models 79 thru '89 Mustang V8 all models '64- 1 /2 thru 73 Mustang II all 4 cyl, V6 & V8 models

Pontiac J-2000, Oldsmobile Firenza, Buick Skyhawk & Cadillac

Colt

*545

P.O. Box 978,

•766

Mini-Vans all models '84 thru '89 Challenger & Plymouth Saporro all models 78 thru '83 Colt all models 71 thru 77 Colt (rear wheel drive) all models

all

LTD

GENERAL MOTORS •829

Aries

77 610

('83 thru '86); Ford Torino, Torino, Elite, Ranchero pick-

up,

all

all

CAPRI

Granada & Mercury Monarch all in-line, 6 cyl & V8 models 75 thru '80 Ford & Mercury Mid-size, Ford Thunderbird & Mercury Cougar (75 thru '82); Ford LTD & Mercury Marquis

all

DODGE

GENERAL

76

Fairmont & Mercury Zephyr all in-line & V8 models 78 thru '83 Fiesta all models 77 thru 80 Ford & Mercury Full-size, Ford LTD & Mercury Marquis (75 thru 82); Ford Custom 500,

Gran

models 77 thru 79 all models '80 thru '83 B-210 all models 73 thru 78 210 all models 78 thru '82 240Z, 260Z & 280Z Coupe & 2+2

200SX 200SX

77

Lotus '66 thru 70 Cortina MK III 1 600 & 2000 ohc 70 thru Courier Pick-up all models 72 thru '82 Escort & Mercury Lynx all models

Country Squire, Crown Victoria & Mercury Colony Park (75 thru '87); Ford LTD Crown Victoria & Mercury Gran Marquis ('83 thru '87)

Chrysler & Plymouth Mid-size wheel drive '82 thru '88 K-Cars - see DODGE Aries (723) Laser - see DODGE Daytona (1140)

679 123 430 372 277 235

124 368

MOTORS J-Cars (766)

"866

560

77

thru

Aerostar Mini-vans all models '86 thru '88 Bronco and Pick-ups 73 thru 79 Bronco and Pick-ups '80 thru '90 Cortina MK II all models except

'81 thru '90

models '67 thru '87 Pick-ups '88 thru '90 - Chevrolet & GMC all full-size (C and K) models, '88 thru '90 S-1 & GMC S-1 5 Pick-ups all models '82 thru '90 Vans - Chevrolet & GMC, V8 & in-line 6 cyl models '68 thru '89 Vega all models except Cosworth

280ZX Coupe & 2+2 79 thru '83 30OZX - see NISSAN (1 137)

X-car models '80 thru '85

Cimarron - see

554

GMC

563

CADILLAC

'1477

&

295 268 789

front

376

MOTORS J-Cars (766)

296 283 205 375

models, '85 thru '90 Pick-ups '67 thru '87 - Chevrolet all V8 & in-line 6 cyl 2WD & 4WD

1 24 Sedan & Wagon all ohv & dohc models '66 thru 75 124 Sport Coupe & Spider 68 thru 78 1 28 all models 72 thru 79 131 & Brava all models 75 thru 81 850 Sedan, Coupe & Spider '64 thru 74 Strada all models 79 thru '82 X1 /9 all models 74 thru '80

FORD *1476 788 '880 014

models 72 thru '82 Monte Carlo all V6, V8 & Turbo models 70 thru '88 Nova all V8 models '69 thru 79 Nova and Geo Prizm all front wheel drive

CHRYSLER

,

552

Full-size Sedans Caprice, Impala. Biscayne, Bel Air & Wagons, all V6 & V8 models '69 thru '90 Luv Pick-up all 2WD & 4WD

70

Ninety-eight '70 thru '84 Pontiac Bonneville 70 thru '86, Catalina 70 thru '81 Grandville 70 thru 75, Parisienne '84 thu '86

627

094 087 310 038 479 273

DATSUN

wheel drive) - see

GENERAL MOTORS A-Cars

'1551

080

cyl

BUICK '1627

FIAT

all

Chevette & Pontiac T1 000 all models 76 thru '87 Citation all models '80 thru '85 Corsica; Beretta all models 87 thru 90 Corvette all V8 models 68 thru '82 Corvette all models '84 thru '89

70 models '75 thru '83 & 530I all models 75 thru 80 1 500 thru 2002 all models except Turbo '59 thru 77 2500, 2800, 3.0 & Bavaria '69 thru 76 320i 528i

& El Camino '69 thru '87

Chevelle, Maiibu

V6 & V8 models

80

CHEVROLET (420, 74

831, 345, 1664)

thru '90

(continued on next page)

of this printing. These

titles will

be periodically

— consult your Haynes dealer for more information.

Newbury

Park,

CA 91320

•

(818)

889-5400

•

(805)

498-6703

2

HAYNES AUTOMOTIVE MANUALS NOTE: New manuals are added

NISSAN & Z Coupe

75

models '67 thru Accord CVCC all models 76 thru '83 Accord all models '84 thru 89 Civic 1 200 all models 73 thru 79 Civic 1 300 & 1 500 CVCC all models

138

360, 600

351 '1221

60 633 1

all

341 *771

Civic Civic

'601

1

*876 '982 *981

*1552

all

models '84

thru '86

Maxima

models

all

models

658

'86 thru '89

Trooper & Pick-up,

all

MK &

II,

XJ6

6

240 & 340 Sedans '55 thru '69 models '68 thru '86 XJ1 2 4 X JS all 1 2 cyl models 72 thru '85 XK-E 3.8 & 4.2 all 6 cyl models '61 thru 72 I

all

Cutlass

all

standard gasoline V6 &

57

(Buick) Manta

Comanche & Wagoneer

Cherokee, all

3

161

663 200,

1

425

LANCIA 533

Lancia Beta Sedan, Coupe & models 76 thru '80

HPE

II,

HA,

&

III

all

4

cyl

gasoline

'58 thru '86 Diesel all models '58 thru '80

models

529

MAZDA 648 •1

082

1232 555

626 Sedan & Coupe (rear wheel drive) all models 79 thru '82 626 & MX-6 (front wheel drive)

all

models

*867

B1 600, B1 800 & B2000 Pick-ups

72 thru 370

models

757

GLC

109 096 460

RX2 RX3

•1419

'90

GLC Hatchback (rear wheel all

77 thru

(front '81 thru '86

551

drive)

643

346 983

wheel drive)

all

698

697

'264

all

239 397 "1027

1 90 Series all four-cylinder gasoline models, '84 thru '88 230, 250 & 280 Sedan, Coupe & Roadster all 6 cyl sohc models '68 thru 280 1 23 Series all gasoline models

141

72

079 097

thru '81

350 & 450 Sedan, Coupe & Roadster all models 71 thru '80 Diesel 123 Series 200D, 220D, 240D, 240TD, 300D, 300CD, 300TD, 4- & 5-cyl incl. Turbo 76

768 081 thru '85

'1

MK

models '80 thru 4 cyl sohc

all

'82

360

models 74 thru '82 Cressida all models 78 thru '82 Land Cruiser all models '68 thru '82 MK II all 6 cyl models 72 thru 76 MR2 all models '85 thru '87 Pick-up all models 69 thru 78 Pick-up all models 79 thru '90 Starlet all models '81 thru '84

313 200 339 304

787

II

all

74

'69 thru

Corona

*656

all

TRIUMPH GT6 &

11

CHEVROLET

Chevette (449) J-2000 - see GENERAL MOTORS J-Cars (766) 6000 - see GENERAL MOTORS A-Cars (829) Fiero all models '84 thru '88 Firebird all V8 models except Turbo

Vitesse

113

Spitfire

028

TR2,

all

models

all

models

'62 thru

74

'62 thru '81

031

3, 3A, & 4A Roadsters '52 thru '67 TR250 & 6 Roadsters '67 thru 76

322

TR7

models 75 thru

all

'81

VW 091

& 412 all 103 cu in models '68 Bug 1 200 all models '54 thru '66 Bug 1300 4 1500 '65 thru 70 Bug 1600 all basic, sport & super

411

036 039 159

thru '81

Firebird all models 82 thru '89 Full-size Rear Wheel Drive - see Buick. Oldsmobile, Pontiac Full-size (1551)

(curved windshield) models

Phoenix & Oldsmobile Omega X-car models '80 thru '84

thru

73

70 thru 74

Bug 1600 Super all models (flat windshield) 70 thru 72

110

all gasoline models 74 thru '81 Rabbit, Jetta, Scirocco, & Pick-up gasoline models 74 thru '89 &

Dasher

238 '884

451

911 all Coupe & Targa models except Turbo '65 thru '87 91 4 all 4 cyl models '69 thru 76

924 944

all all

models including Turbo 76 models including Turbo '83

082 226

thru '82 thru '89

084 1029

598 984

5 Le Car all models 76 thru '83 8 & 10 all models with 58.4 cu in engines '62 thru 72 12 Saloon & Estate all models 1 289 cc engines 70 thru '80 15 & 17 all models 73 thru 79 16 all models 89.7 cu in & 95.5 cu engines '65 thru 72

085

MGA all models '56 thru '62 MGB Roadster & GT Coupe

•365

models '62 thru '80 Midget & Austin Healey Sprite Roadster '58 thru '80

203 1 29 244 *270 in

& Sportwagon all models '81 thru Alliance & Encore - see AMC (934) Fuego all models '82 thru '85 18i

•1

'86

198 247 *980

MITSUBISHI Pick-up - see Dodge D-50 (556)

3500 & 3500S Sedan 21 5 cu engines '68 thru

237

400 550

76

3500 SDI V8

models 76

all

1479 in

1654 1480

thru '85

482 299 393 300

95 & 96 V4 all models '66 thru 75 99 all models including Turbo '69 thru '80 900 all models including Turbo 79 thru '88

diesel

& 1800 Sports '61 models '66 thru 74

120, 130 Series

40 164 240 260 740

Series

1

all

all

models

75 models 74 thru models 75 thru

thru

73

'68 thru

Series all Series all & 760 Series

all

models

'90

'82 '82 thru '88

Automotive Body Repair & Painting Manual Automotive Electrical Manual Automotive Heating & Air Conditioning Manual Fuel Injection Manual

SU

Carburetors thru 88

Weber Carburetors Zenith Stromberg thru

SUBARU

MORRIS

all

models 77 thru '84 Transporter 1600 all models '68 thru 79 Transporter 1700, 1800 & 2000 all models 72 thru 79 Type 3 1500 & 1600 all models '63 thru 73 Vanagon all air-cooled models '80 thru 83

SPECIAL MANUALS

SAAB

MG

Convertible '80 thru '89 Rabbit, Jetta & Pick-up

VOLVO

ROVER

all

265

74

79

thru '83

RENAULT

MG 111

Corolla Tercel

Corona &

PORSCHE

all

FORD Listing

475

models

wheel

all

MERCURY See

diesel

(front

230

models

models 71 thru 75 models 72 thru 76 RX-7 all models 79 thru '85 RX-7 all models '86 thru '89

77

all

gasoline models '68 thru

all

'83

MERCEDES-BENZ * 1

all

models

all

models

Coupe 1 900 74

thru

Arrow all models 76 thru '80 For all other PLYMOUTH titles, see DODGE listing.

70

'83 thru '90

'267

504 504

T1000 - see

LAND ROVER Series

models 70

PONTIAC

all

314

Corolla

drive) '84 thru '88

PLYMOUTH

300. 1 500 & 1 600 all models including Riva 74 thru '86 1

'80 thru '87

•1025

Phoenix &

*532

LADA •41

361 961

PEUGEOT

'89

all models '84 thru models '49 thru '86

Limited

201

OPEL 1

CJ

1139

GENERAL

•636

all

412

680

thru '88

Omega - see PONTIAC Omega (551)

cyl

JEEP *1553

'935

Firenza - see GENERAL MOTORS J-Cars (766) Ninety-eight - see BUICK Full-size (1551)

JAGUAR

140

all models '83 thru '90 Carina Sedan all models 71 thru 74 Celica ST, GT & liftback all models 71 thru 77 Celica all models 78 thru '81 Celica all models except frontwheel drive and Supra '82 thru '85 Celica Supra all models 79 thru '81 Celica Supra all in-line 6-cylinder models '82 thru '86 Corolla 1100, 1200 & 1600 all models '67 thru 74 Corolla all models 75 thru 79 Corolla all models (rear wheel drive)

150 229

MOTORS A-Cars (829)

gasoline models

'81 thru '89

098

Camry

•1023

437

Cutlass Ciera - see

ISUZU

•242 •478

Samurai/Sidekick and Geo Tracker all models '86 thru '89

Full-size (1551) all

vehicle,

TOYOTA

Pulsar all models '83 thru '86 Sentra all models '82 thru '90 Stanza all models '82 thru '90

Custom Cruiser - see BUICK

Excel

your

'85 thru '89

Pick-ups/Pathfinder gas models

V8 models 74 •1641

*1626

Turbo & non-Turbo

OLDSMOBILE

HYUNDAI

for

SUZUKI

30OZX

'80 thru '88

500 CVCC all models 75 thru 79 all models except 1 6-valve CRX & 4 WD Wagon '84 thru '86 Prelude CVCC ail models 79 thru '89

297 227

•11 37 *1

'80 thru '83 "1

list on a periodic basis. If you do not see a listing Haynes dealer for the latest product information.

to this

consult your local

HONDA

,con,inged ,rom previous page)

1100,1300,1400 8.1600 models 71 thru 79 1600 & 1800 2WD&4WD all models '80 thru '88

thru

CD

79

Carburetors

76

See your dealer

for other available titles

all

074 024

(Austin) Marina 1.8

all

models 71

Minor 1000 sedan & wagon

thru '80 '56 thru 71

*681

6-1-90

' Listings shown with an asterisk (') indicate model coverage as of this printing. These titles will be periodically updated to include later model years consult your Haynes dealer for more information.

i

o

'38345"01725

• • • • •

Step-by-step procedures linked to hundreds of easy-to-follow photos using common tools Written from "hands-on" experience Quick and easy troubleshooting sections Detailed wiring diagrams Color spark plug diagnosis .

.

.

ISBN

1

85010 725

4

.