Haynes Ford Tempo and Mercury Topaz Automotive Repair Manual 1563921286

Citation preview

36078

^yne!

Mercury Tc^paz 1984 thru 1994

j

Gasoline engine models

{

Haynes Repair Manual Based on a complete teardown and rebuild

i'te^'

Includes essential informatidh for today's

more complex

vehicles

Digitized by the Internet Archive in

2009

http://www.archive.org/details/fordtempomercuryOOchri

Ford Tempo and

Mercury Topaz

Automotive Repair

Manual by Mark Christman

and John H Haynes Member of

the Guild of Motoring Writers

Models covered: Ford Tempo and Mercury Topaz models

All

with a gasoline engine

1984 through 1994

(8B10- 36078)

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A /UlTCiMCTIVI I^VIfTS

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4

-

M 9.18 Install the circlrp

.

9.19

.

.

.

.

then seat the stop ring the groove

9.20

in

Pack grease

into the bearing until

completely

it's

full

LH DRIVEAXLE ASSEMBLY LH DRIVEAXLE ASSEMBLY

432mm (17,0

INCHES)

408mm (16

MANUAL TRANSAXLE

1

INCHES)

AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE

130,0

9.22a Oriveaxle standard length

18

Install

the circlip ancd

and cage assembly out

siiide

until

-

INCHES!

1991 and earlier models (note the beveled portion of the [arrow] faces toward the outer end)

the inner race

the inner race

contacts the circlip (see illustration). 19 Install the stop ring in the groove (see illustration). Make sure it's completely seated by pushing on the inner race and cage

assembly.

rtirl

Four-cylinder engine, manual transaxle

Fill the outer race and boot with CV joint grease (normally included with the new boot kit). Pack the inner race and cage assembly with grease, by hand, until grease is worked completely into the assembly (see illus-

20

tration).

21

Slide the outer race

race and

install

down onto

the inner

the wire ring retainer.

22 Wipe any excess grease from the axle boot groove on the outer race. Seat the small diameter of the boot in the recessed area on the axleshaft and

install the clamp. Push the other end of the boot onto the outer race and move the race in-or-out to adjust the axle to

the proper length (see illustrations).

23

With the axle set to the proper length, in the boot by inserting a dull screwdriver between the boot and the outer race (see illustration overleaf). Don't damage the boot with the tool. 24 Install the boot clamp. A pair of special clamp-crimping pliers are required. The pliers equalize the pressure

407.0

(16.02 IN)

damper assembly on the

right side driveaxle

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles

8-10

9.23 Equalize the pressure inside the boot by inserting a small screwdriver between

the boot and the outer race

9.25 Always replace the circlip on the inner stub axle

9.24 Securing the boot clamp with the special pliers (available at most auto parts stores)

outward movement. Both on V6 models and the left driveaxles on four-cylinder models use snap-

On

are available at most auto parts stores (see

ring to prevent

32

illustration).

driveaxles

driveaxle,

a

new

illustration)

and

25

Install

described

in

clip

on the stub axle (see

install

Section

the driveaxle as

(see Section

Disassembly

28

illustrations 9.30, 9.31, 9.32a. 9.32b,

9.33 and 9.34

26

movement

in

will

both directions. when the

specify

process differs. Remove the driveaxle from the vehicle 27

Tripod type Refer to

rings to prevent

The following procedure

8.

The major difference between the two

types of inner Tripod joints is in the method of securing the tripod bearing assembly to the axleshaft. The right Tripod joint on four-

models uses the driveshaft shoulder prevent inward movement and one snap-

driveaxle

of the vise should to prevent

29

be

damage

in

a vise.

lined with

The jaws

wood

or rags

to the axleshaft.

Cut the boot clamps from the boot and

discard them (see illustration 9.3).

30

Bend

for tripod

the retaining tabs slightly to allow

removal (see

Remove

four-cylinder

engine

right

remove the snap-ring at the end of the driveaxle and remove the Tripod assembly (see illustrations). 33 On the four-cylinder engine left driveaxle and either V6 engine axle, move the inner (exposed) stop ring down the shaft about 1/2-inch (see illustration).

8).

Mount the

the

tripod

cylinder

31

to

race (see illustration).

illustration).

assembly from outer

34 On the four-cylinder engine left axle and any V6 engine axle, move the Tripod down the shaft towards the inner snap-ring until the circlip is visible on the end of the driveaxle. Remove the circlip and remove the tripod assembly off the driveaxle (see illustration). No further disassembly of the Tripods is 35 possible. Inspect the tripod rollers, roller

bearings and races carefully for damage.

SNAP RING

TRIPOD BEARING 9.30

Bend the

retaining tabs to allow Tripod removal

9.31

Removing the Tripod assembly

9.32a Removing the snap ring on the four-cylinder engine right axle Tripod

CHAMFER

9.32b Removing the four-cylinder engine right axle Tripod assembly

CIRCLIP

9.33 Move the stop ring down the axle shaft (V6 [either axle] and four-cylinder [left axle])

Remove the circlip and pull off the Tripod assembly (V6 [both axles] and

9.34

four-cylinder

left axle)

8-11

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles worn spots and smooth operation. Damaged or worn Tripods cannot be rebuilt and must be replaced. 36 If new boots will be installed on V6 engine models (either driveaxle) and fourcylinder model (left axle), remove the inner stop ring completely and remove the old boot.

Reassembly Refer to illustrations 9.41a, 9.41b and 9.42

37 Slide new clamp and inner CV joint boot on the axleshaft (see illustration 9.15). 38 On four-cylinder engine left and all V6 engine axles, install a new inner stop ring past the second ring groove about 1/2-inch. Install the Tripod assembly on the 39 driveaxle with the chamfered side inward

9.41a Installing the Tripod snap ring (V6 [both axles] and four-cylinder left axle)

9.41b Push the Tripod assembly toward the axle end (V6 [both axles] and fourcylinder left axle) then install the stop ring in its

(see Illustration 9.32b). 40 On the four-cylinder engine right side axle, install a new snap-ring onto driveaxle

groove

PACK WITH GREASE

secure Thpod assembly. four-cylinder engine left and all ve engine axles, push the Tripod assembly down the axle far enough to allow circlip

end

to

41

On

installation. Install the new circlip and push the Tripod assembly towards the axle end until the Tripod seats on the circlip and the inner stop ring groove is exposed. Next,

CV JOINT OUTER RACE

move the inner stop ring to its groove to secure the Tripod assembly (see illustra-

SPREAD REMAINING GREASE EVENLY INSIDE BOOT

tions).

42

On

all

axles,

fill

the outer race with

CV

grease and spread some on the inside of the boot as well (see illustration). The left

joint

axle Tripods use about 6.5 oz. of grease and the right axles use about 5 oz on the four-

and about 7 oz. for the V6. Push the Thpod assembly into outer race and bend the six retaining tabs back to their original shape. 43 Wipe any excess grease from the axle boot groove on the outer race. Seat the small diameter of the boot in the recessed area on the axleshaft and install the clamp. Push the other end of the boot onto the outer race and cylinder

move

the race in-or-out to adjust the axle to

the proper length (see illustrations 9.22a

and

9.22b).

45

the boot with the tool.

Install

the boot clamp.

clamp-crimping

A

pair of special

(see

illus-

tration 9.24).

46

Install

a

new

clip

on the stub axle (see

47

Install

Section

the driveaxle as described

in

inner

Boot replacement (1992 and models) 48

Remove

(Section

49

On 1992 and

CV joint).

later

the driveaxle from the vehicle

Mount the

driveaxle

to prevent

be

damage

in

a vise. The jaws wood or rags

lined with

to the axleshaft.

50 Cut the boot clamps from both inner and outer boots and discard them (see illustration 9.3)

Remove

inner

CV

Steps 30 through 36). Remove the outer 52

CV

joint

joint

CV

clip

in

8.

illustrations 9.60, 9.62, 9.63.

9.64

and 9.65 58 59

Remove

the driveaxle from the vehicle.

Follow the procedure

in

Steps 2 and 3 of

this Section.

Slide the boot off the outer race. With a 60 brass drift positioned on the inner race, dislodge the CV joint assembly from the axle

(see illustration).

A

lot

of force

will

be

and boot (see

joint boot.

assembly

Section

Refer to

8).

a

in

Wash

solvent and

as described in Step 12. Replace if any CV joint components are excessively worn. Install the new, outer boot and clamp onto the axleshaft (see illusinspect

it,

tration 9. 15)

CV Joint and boot

models, the outer CV joint is a non-serviceable item and is permanently retained to the driveaxle. If any damage or excessive wear occurs to the axle or the outer CV joint, the entire driveaxle assembly must be replaced (excluding the

Note:

1991 and earlier models Disassembly

Install

(see illustration 9.25). 57 Install the driveaxle as described

the axle assembly

8.

Outer

on the inner stub axle

are included in this Section.

the outer

illustration 9.25).

new

inside the boot

56

51

pliers are required

some

limited to boot replacement and grease repacking only. Earlier year models use removable Double Offset-type CV joints and procedures for disassembly and reassembly is

of the vise should

With the axle set to the proper length, equalize the pressure in the boot by inserting a dull screwdriver between the boot and the outer race (see illustration 9.23). Don't

44

damage

9.42 Apply grease to the outer race and spread

later

Service to the outer

CV joints

Repack the outer CV joint with CV joint 53 grease and spread grease inside the new boot as well. 54 Position the outer boot on the CV joint and install new boot clamps, using boot clamp pliers (see illustration 9.24). 55 Reassemble the inner CV joint and boot (see Steps 37 through 45).

CV joint assembly with and hammer (be careful not

9.60 Dislodge the

a brass

drift

to let the joint

fall)

Q

8-12

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles

9.62 Tilt the inner race far enough to allow ball removal - a brass punch can be

used

if

the inner race

is difficult

to

necessary, pry the balls out with a screwdriver

9.64 Tilt the inner race and cage 90degrees, then align the windows in the cage with the outer race lands and rotate the inner race up and out of the outer race

The beveled edge of the inner race (arrow) must face out when assembled

cage windows and the and outer race grooves, then tilt the cage and inner race to insert the balls

9.63

If

move

JkJ 9.65 Align the inner race lands with the

cage windows and rotate the inner race out of the cage

inner

required, as the inner race

method used

circllp

the inner race splined area must face out after it's installed in the outer race (see illus-

71 Install the boot on the axleshaft as described in Step 15. Apply a liberal amount of grease to the inside of the

tration).

boot.

joint

61

must overcome a on the axleshaft. Do not let the CV assembly fall. Mount the assembly in a vise lined with

9.69 Align the

9.68

wood 62

69

or rags.

Press

down on

the inner race far

to allow a ball to be removed.

enough

it's difficult,

If

tap the inner race with a brass drift and a hammer (see illustration). 63 Pry the balls from the cage, one at a time, with a blunt screwdriver or wooden tool (see illustration). 64 With all of the balls

removed from the cage and the cage/inner race assembly tilted 90-degrees, align the cage windows with the outer race lands and remove the assembly from the outer race (see

Remove

65

in

Step 64. The beveled edge

of

Press the balls into the cage windows

(see illustration). 70 Pack the CV

72

Install

a

new stop

groove

in

on the inner end

of

ring in the

the axleshaft. joint

assembly with CV

joint

grease through the inner splined hole. Force the grease into the bearing by inserting a wooden dowel through the splined hole and pushing it to the bottom of the joint. Repeat this procedure until the bearing is completely packed (see Illustration).

73

Install

a

new

circlip

the axleshaft.

74

Position the

CV

joint

assembly on the

axleshaft, aligning the splines. Using a brass or plastic

drive the CV joint onto the seats against the stop ring

hammer,

axleshaft until

it

(see illustration).

illustration).

the inner race from the cage by

turning the inner race 90-degrees

the cage, the cage windows and rotating the inner race out of the cage (see illustration). aligning

the

inner

lands

in

with

Inspection

Wash

66 the

all

of the parts in solvent. Inspect

components as described

in

Step

12.

Reassembly Refer to

67

illustrations 9.68, 9.69, 9. 70,

and 9. 74

the cage by reversing the technique described in Step 65.

68 in

Install

the inner race

in

Install the inner race and cage assembly the outer race by reversing the removal

9.70 Apply grease through the splined hole, then insert a wooden dowel (approximately 15/16-inch diameter) into the hole and push down - the dowel will force the grease into the joint

9.74 Line up the splines of the inner race with the axleshaft splines, then tap the CV joint assembly onto the shaft with a brass or plastic hammer until the inner race is seated against the stop ring

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles 75

Install

the boot and clamps (see illus-

trations 9.23

76

Install

Section

10

and

^

9.24).

the driveaxle as described

8.

Differential seals

Refer to

in

illustrations 10.2

-

replacement

and

10.3

Caution: Whenever both the right and

left

removed at the same time, the side gears must be supported so

driveaxles are differential

they don't

fall

into the case.

A wooden

dowel,

approximately 15/1 6-inch in diameter, inserted into each side gear will work. If this precaution is not heeded and the side gears

do drop, the removed from

differential

will

have

to

be

the transaxle to realign the

gears (which will necessitate towing the vehicle to a Ford dealer service department or other repair shop). 1

Refer to Section 8 and remove the

driveaxle.

>C'

8-13

8-14

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles

Notes

9-1

Chapter 9

Brakes

Contents Section

Section Brake Brake Brake Brake Brake Brake Brake Brake

check check

fluid

See Chapter See Chapter

check

- inspection, removal and installation hoses and lines - inspection and replacement hydraulic system - bleeding light switch - removal and installation pedal - removal and installation system check Front brake caliper - removal, overhaul and installation Front brake pads - replacement

1 1

4

disc

9 10 14 15

See Chapter

1

3 2

General information Master cylinder - removal, overhaul and installation Parking brake - adjustment Parking brake cables - removal and installation Power brake booster - check, removal, installation and adjustment Rear brake drum - removal, inspection and installation Rear brake shoes - replacement Wheel cylinder - removal and installation

1

8 11

12

13 5 6 7

Specifications

Brake

fluid

type

See Chapter

1

0.945 inch 0.882 inch 0.0005 inch 0.003 inch See Chapter

1

Disc brakes Brake disc Thickness Standard

Minimum* Thickness variation

Runout

limit (1-inch

from edge)

limit

Minimum brake pad thickness stamped on

'Refer to marks

the disc (they supersede information printed here).

Drum brakes Brake drum Diameter Standard

1984 and 1985 1986 on

8.006 inches 8.065 inches

Maximum* 1984 and 1985 1988 on Out-of-round

Minimum brake

8.065 inches 8.124 inches 0.005 inch

limit

lining

See Chapter

thickness

'Refer to marks cast into the

drum

(they

supersede information printed

1

here).

Torque specifications

Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)

Brake caliper mounting pins Brake hose-to-caliper bolt Master cylinder to-booster nuts

18 to 25

Fluid control valve

Pressure control valves Power brake booster nuts

Wheel cylinder Wheel lug nuts

bolts

Rear axle nut Step 1 (initial torque) Step 2 Step 3 (final torque) 1988 and earlier 1989 and later

30

to

40

13 to 25 96 to 120 in-lbs 10 to 18 13 to 15 108 to 156 in-lbs See Chapter 1 17 to 25

Back

off 1/2 turn

10 to 15 24 to 28

in-lbs in-lbs

9

9-2

Chapter 9

Brakes

that reduce the pressure to the rear brakes 1

General information

order to

limit

in

rear wheel lockup during hard

Precautions

models are equipped with disc type front and drum type rear brakes which are hydraulically operated and vacuum assisted. The front brakes feature a single piston, floating caliper design. The rear drum brakes are leading/trailing shoe types with a single

which are hazardous to your When working on brake system components, carefully clean all parts with brake system cleaner. Don't allow the

brakes. Do not, under any circumstances, use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts. Use brake system cleaner only! When servicing the disc brakes, use only high quality, nationally recognized brand name

asbestos

fibers,

health

inhaled.

if

dust to become airborne. Safety should be paramount

fine

The front disc brakes automatically compensate for pad wear during usage. The rear drum brakes also feature automatic

working on brake system components. Don't

when

use parts or fasteners that aren't in perfect condition and be sure that all clearances and torque specifications are adhered to. If you're at all unsure about a certain procedure, seek professional advice. When finished working on the brakes, test them carefully under controlled vehicle

conditions

in traffic.

If

before

a problem

is

driving

the brake system, don't drive the vehicle the fault

is

the

suspected

The

hydraulic system

is

a diagonally-split In the event

2

-

will still

operate.

The master

cylinder

also Incorporates two pressure control valves

Remove the front wheels. 3 Check the disc carefully as outlined in Section 4. If machining is necessary, follow the procedure in Section 4 to remove the disc.

replacement

of a brake line or seal failure, half the brake

system

Remove about two-thirds of the fluid 1 from the master cylinder reservoir. Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the 2 vehicle and support it securely on jackstands.

in

corrected.

Front bralte pads

pads.

Follow

4

accompanying

photos,

illustration 2.4a, for

the actual

the

until

rear brakes.

type with a dual master cylinder.

never

-

don 't inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the

pivot.

Front drive vehicles tend to wear the front brake pads at a faster rate than rear drive vehicles. Consequently, it's important to inspect the brake pads frequently to make sure they haven't worn to the point where the disc itself is scored or damaged. All models are equipped with a cable actuated parking brake which operates the

wheels at the same time

Use only DOT 3 brake fluid. The brake pads and linings may contain

All

adjustment.

front

replace the pads on only one wheel. Also, the

dust created by the brake system contains asbestos, which is harmful to your health. Never blow it out with compressed air and

braking.

Description

on both

Refer to illustrations 2.4a through 2.4i Warning: Disc brake pads must be replaced

beginning with

pad replacement procedure. Be sure to stay in order and read the information in the caption under each illustration. 5 Once the new pads are in place and the caliper pins have been installed and properly tightened, install the wheels and lower the vehicle to the ground. Note: If the brake hose

T~^ 1-

I

r

/./ ^:S

J push the piston back into the caliper bore - note that one end of the clamp is on the flat area near the brake hose fitting and the other end (screw end) is pressing on the outer pad

2.4a Using a large C-clamp,

2.4d Pull the inner brake

pad

straight out

of the caliper piston (inspect the piston for

cracks and signs of leakage, which will warrant replacement of the caliper)

2.4b

Remove

the two caliper mounting will require a special TORX socket)

pins (this

2.4c Rotate the bottom of the caliper up off the brake disc (don't put excessive

and

strain

on the brake hose or damage could occur)

2.4e Push the outer pad towards the piston to dislodge the locating lugs from the caliper frame, then lift out the pad

2.4f

Push the piston

to provide

room

into the cylinder

bore

new pads to fit block of wood and

for the

over the disc - use a C-clamp; don't use excessive force or

damage

to the plastic piston will result

Chapter 9

9-3

Brakes

m

2.4g

To

install

new pads into the push the inner pad

the

caliper, carefully

retaining clips straight into the piston until

the brake pad backing plate rests on the piston face - slide the outer pad into the caliper as shown (be sure the locating lugs on the pad [1] seat into the nnounting

holes

in

the caliper frames

[2])

2.4h Position the anti-rattle spring on the outer pad (1) under the upper arm of the steering knuckle with the notches in the upper edge of both pads on the upper arm (2), rotate the caliper down the notches In the opposite end of the pads seat against the lower arm of the steering knuckle (make sure the brake hose is not twisted)

of the knuckle until

9-4

Chapter 9

3.7 Carefully pry the dust

boot from the caliper

Brakes

3.8

To avoid damage

to the caliper bore or seal groove,

the seal with a plastic or

7

INNER SHOE

wooden

tool

-

remove

a pencil works well

Carefully pry the dust boot out of the

and discard it (see illustration). Using a plastic or wooden tool, remove the piston seal from the groove in the caliper bore and discard it (see illustration). 9 Remove the mounting pins and remove and discard the pin insulators from caliper caliper bore

PISTON

8

OUTER SHOE

(see illustrations).

10 Clean the remaining parts

w/ith

brake

cleaner or denatured alcohol. CALIPER LOCATINa PIN

11

Carefully

examine the piston for surface chips and cracks (see Replace piston if damaged.

irregularities or small illustration).

12

Check

nicks,

the caliper bore for score marks,

loss

of

and

plating

burrs.

Light

polishing of the bore with crocus cloth

permissible to remove

light

is

corrosion and

stains.

CAUPER LOCATMQPIN

CAUPER HOUSING

13 When reassembling, lubricate the piston bore and new seal with brake fluid. Position the new piston seal into the caliper bore

groove (see illustration). 14 Install a new dust boot

in

the piston

groove, with the flange facing up {see 3.9a Exploded view of the caliper

components

illus-

tration).

PHENOLIC PISTON INSPECTION

MINOR SURFACE IMPERFECTIONS ARE ALLOWABLE, PROVIDED THEY DO NOT ENTER THE DUST BOOT GROOVE AREA

NO CRACKS. CHIPS. GOUGES, OH ANY OTHER SURFACE DAMAGE ON PISTON OD IS

ACCEPTABLE

CRACKS COMPLETELY ACROSS PISTON FACE NOT ACCEPTABLE

BOTTOM OF DUST BOOT GROOVE

3.11

3.9b

To remove a

needle-nose

caliper pin Insulator, grab

pliers, twist

it

and push

it

with a pair of through the caliper frame it

Inspect the plastic piston carefully for signs of

as shown

damage

Chapter 9

3.14 Stretch the new boot over the top of the piston, making sure it rests in the piston groove - the flange must be nearest to the top of the piston

3.13 Position the seal into its groove, making sure it isn't twisted

15

Lubricate the piston with brake

insert

push

it it

resists,

fluid

and

squarely into the caliper bore, then

bore with both hands.

into the

wood

place a

block or other

flat

If

Check brake operation

little

4

silicone grease.

vehicle

the mounting pins through the

Refer to

Installation Refer to Section 2 for the caliper instal-

procedure.

20 After the caliper is reinstalled, reconnect the brake hose (if removed) using new washers on each side of the brake hose fitting bolt. Tighten the bolt to the torque listed in this

21

Pump

bring the

Chapter's Specifications.

the brake pedal several times to

pads

into contact with the disc.

22 Bleed the brakes as described in Section 10. This isn't necessary if the brake hose was left

connected

was removed 23

Install

to the caliper

(if

the

resistance)

the caliper

access to other parts). the wheel and lower the vehicle. for

-

inspection, removal

installation

illustrations 4.2, 4.3a, 4.3b,

4.4a

and

4.4b

Inspection Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the and support it securely on jackstands. Remove the wheel and install two lug nuts to 1

2

lation

Brake disc

and

hold the disc

caliper insulators.

19

before

in

push it in by hand as far as possible (it may be necessary to use a C-clamp and a block of wood to bottom the piston in the bore - work slowly, making sure the piston does not become cocked - it should slide in with very

it

an old brake pad) over the piston and use a C-clamp to carefully press the piston into its bore until it seats (see illustration). Caution: Never use the C-clamp directly on the piston surface, as damage can result. 16 Position the dust boot in the caliper bore, then use a punch to seat it (see illustration). 17 Install new insulators in the caliper ears and fill the area inside the insulators with Install

carefully

driving the vehicle in traffic.

3.15 Install the piston squarely caliper bore, then

stock

(like

18

9-5

Brakes

in

place.

Visually Inspect the disc surface for score

marks and other damage. Light scratches and shallow grooves are normal after use and may not be detrimental to brake operation. Deep score marks - over 0.015-inch - require removal and refinishing by an disc automotive machine shop. Be sure to check both sides of the disc (see illustration).

To check disc runout, attach a dial indicator to the brake caliper and locate the stem about 1-inch from the outer edge of the 3

disc (see illustration). Set the indicator to

zero and turn the disc. The indicator reading

should not exceed the value listed in this Chapter's Specifications. If it does, the disc should be resurfaced by an automotive

3.16

Use a punch

to carefully seat the

dust boot

machine

shop.

recommend

Note:

resurfacing

Professionals of

brake

discs

regardless of the dial indicator reading produce a smooth, flat surface that eliminate brake pedal pulsations

undesirable

symptoms

(to will

and other

related to questionable

At the very least, if you elect not to have the discs resurfaced, deglaze the brake discs).

pad surface

w/ith

sandpaper or emery cloth

(use a swirling motion to ensure a non-directional finish)

(see illustration).

9

The brake pads on this vehicle were obviously neglected, as they were down to the rivets and cut deep grooves into the disc - wear this severe will require replacement of the disc 4.2

4.3a With two lug nuts installed to hold the disc in place, check the runout with a dial indicator - if the reading exceeds the maximum allowable runout limit, the disc will have to be machined or replaced

4.3b Using a swirling motion, remove the glaze from the disc with sandpaper or

emery

cloth.

9-6

Brakes

Chapter 9

4.4a The

minimum allowable thickness

is

cast into the inside of

4.4b

A micrometer is used to measure

disc thickness

the disc

Remove

4

The disc should never be machined to a under the specified minimum allowable thickness, which Is cast Into the Inside of the disc Itself (see illustration). The disc thickness can be checked with a

2

thickness

lock and retaining nut (see illustration).

micrometer (see

stuck, loosen the brake adjuster star wheel

illustration).

5

Refer to Section 3 and remove the brake

caliper. Warning: Don't allow the caliper to hang by the brake hose and don disconnect the hose from the caliper. 6 Remove the two lug nuts which were put on to hold the disc In place and detach the

grease cap, cotter

pin, nut

Grasp the brake drum and pull out far enough to dislodge the outer bearing and washer (see illustration). If the drum Is 3

it

as shown

Removal and installation

the

In

4

Remove

5

Pull

illustration 6.9a.

the bearing.

the hub/drum assembly off the axle.

Inspection

't

Installation is the reverse of removal.

Rear brake drum

5

-

removal,

inspection and installation Refer to

overheated areas, they should be replaced. Also, look for grease or brake fluid on the shoe contact surface. Grease and brake fluid can be removed with denatured alcohol or brake cleaner, but the brake shoes must be replaced If they are contaminated. Surface glazing, which is a glossy, highly polished finish, can be removed with sandpaper or emery cloth (see spots,

disc from the hub. 7

Check the drum for cracks, score marks, deep grooves and signs of overheating of the shoe contact surface. If the drums have blue 6

illustrations 5.2, 5.3, 5.6

and 5.9

illustration).

Removal Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the rear and support It securely on jackstands. Block the front wheels, then remove the rear wheel.

is

bility

chisel

can be used to

gently tap the grease cap from the

hub/drum assembly

recommend

new

Installation While the hub/drum assembly is off the It's a good Idea to clean, inspect and repack or. If necessary, replace the rear wheel bearings. Refer to Chapter 10 for rear wheel bearing service. 8 Place the hub/drum assembly on the axle. Install the outer wheel bearings and 7

vehicle.

washer and push the assembly Into place. 9 Install the retaining nut and washer and tighten the nut to the

while

rotating

Initial

drum.

the

specified torque

Back

off

the

adjusting nut 1/2 turn, then tighten the nut to

torque (see illustration).

the

final

10

Install

the nut lock, cotter pin

and grease

damage

the grease

cap.

Be

cap.

Install

careful not to

the wheel, lower the vehicle

tighten the lug nuts to the torque listed

and

in this

Chapter's Specifications.

6

Brake shoes

-

replacement

drums whenever a brake job

done. Resurfacing

1

A hammer and

Note: Professionals

resurfacing the

of the vehicle

5.2

Indicating

diameter (stamped into the drum), then ones will be required.

eliminate the possi-

will

of out-of-round drums.

If

the

drums are

worn so much that they can't be surfaced without exceeding the maximum allowable

and nut lock have the drum out to dislodge the bearing - be careful not to

5.3 After the cotter pin

been removed,

pull

drop

It

Refer to 6.9a

illustrations 6.5a

through 6.5n,

6.8,

and 6.9b

Warning: The brake shoes must be replaced on both rear wheels at the same time - never

5.6

Remove

glaze from the drum surfaces with sandpaper or emery cloth

.

Chapter 9

9-7

Brakes

replace the shoes on only one wheel. Also, brake system dust may contain asbestos, which is harmful to your health. Never blow it out with compressed air and don't inhale any of it. Do not, under any circumstances, use

petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts. Use brake system cleaner only. Whenever the brake shoes are replaced, the return and hold-down sphngs should also be

WITH WHEEL ROTATING TIGHTEN ADJUSTING NUT.

TO

23-34 N

m

continuous the Due to replaced. heating/cooling cycle that the springs are subjected to, they lose their tension over a

BACK ADJUSTING NUT OFF 1/2 TURN

period of time and may allow the shoes to drag on the drum and wear at a much faster rate than normal. When replacing the rear brake shoes, use only high quality, nationally recognized brand-name parts. 1 Remove about two-thirds of the brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir. Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the rear 2 of the vehicle and support it on jackstands. Block the front wheels and remove the rear w/heels from the vehicle. 3 Refer to Section 5 and remove the brake drums. 4 Carefully inspect the brake drums as outlined in Section 5. Also inspect the wheel cylinder for fluid leakage as described in

(17-25 LB-FT)

©

INSTALL THE RETAINER

TIGHTEN ADJUSTING NUT TO 1-1.7 N m

AND A NEW COTTER

1

PIN

110-15 LB-INl

5.9

Step Step Step Step

Rear wheel bearing adjusting procedure

1

While rotating the drum, tighten the adjusting nut to the

2.

Loosen the nut

torque

1/2-turn

3.

Tighten the nut to the

4.

Install

the nut lock

final

torque

and cotter pin

ADJUSTING NUT

WHEEL CYLINDER

AND SCREW

ADJUSTER

WASHER

ADJUSTER SCREW RETRACTING

ADJUSTER LEVER ADJUSTING SOCKET

SPRING

LEADING SHOE

AND

initial

SHOE HOLD DOWN PIN AND

LINING

SHOE HOLD

SPRING

DOWN AND

PIN

PARKING BRAKE LEVER

SPRING

TRAILING SHOE

BACKING PLATE

AND SPRING

drum brake components

6.5c Depress and turn the spring and remove the hold down

retainers

springs and pins

LINING

LOWER RETRACTING

SHOE RETAINING PLATE 6.5a Rear

Chapter 1. Follow the accompanying photos (see 5 illustrations 6.5a through 6.5n) for the

-

left

side

shown

6.5d Slide the entire assembly up and off the shoe retaining plate (be careful not to bend the adjuster lever)

6.5b Before removing any drum brake components, wash them off with brake cleaner and allow them to dry - position a drain pan under the brake to catch the residue - DO NOT USE COMPRESSED AIR

TO BLOW THE BRAKE DUST FROM THE PARTS!

6.5e

Unhook the lower from the

trailing

retracting spring

brake shoe

.

.

9-8

6.5f

Chapter 9

.

.

.

then remove the adjuster screw

retracting spring from the adjuster lever

which time the adjuster lever, adjuster screw assembly and the leading brake shoe can also be removed)

(at

Brakes

6.5g Unclip the parking brake cable end from the parking brake lever on the trailing shoe, then remove the shoe and lever

assembly

6.5h Spread the parking brake retaining clip with a screwdriver and remove the clip and spring washer (note that the lever mounts to the BACK SIDE of the trailing shoe)

;;,

Attach the parking brake lever to the shoe, inserting the pivot pin through the front of the shoe, then through the lever - install the spring washer and retaining clip and crimp it closed with a

6.5i

new

pair of pliers

6.5j Lubricate the brake shoe contact areas (arrows) with hightemperature grease

^

fliffilS

1

.

Chapter 9

9-9

Brakes

RUBBER PLUG REMOVED

INSPECTION

HOLE

wheel on the adjuster the brake shoes drag on the drum

6.8 Turn the star

screw

until

.

Two

6.9b

.MOVE HANDLE UPWARD "TO RETRACT BRAKE SHOES

.

shoe replacement procedure. Be sure and read the information in the caption under each illustration. 6 Once the new shoes are in place, install the hub/drum assembly as outlined in

screwdrivers may also be used to adjust the brakes

because of

actual

(usually

to stay in order

tance or no resistance at

Section

5.

Remove the rubber plug from the brake 7 backing plate. 8 Insert a narrow screwdriver or brake adjusting tool through the adjustment hole and turn the star wheel until the brakes drag slightly as the drum is turned (see illustration).

9

Turn the star wheel

direction until the

drum

in

the opposite

turns freely.

Keep the

then back off the star wheel with a brake tool while holding the adjuster lever away from the star wheel until the brake shoes drag just slightly on the drum (the drum must still be able to rotate freely)

6.9a

.

.

.

on the backing plate. If the foam damaged, apply RTV-type sealant to

into position

seal

is

the wheel cylinder mating surface of the backing plate. Carefully insert the brake fitting into

6

Install

the cylinder and tighten

the two wheel cylinder mounting

adjuster lever from contacting the star wheel

bolts

it won't turn (see illustrations). 10 Repeat the adjustment on the opposite

7

Tighten the brake

8

Install

wheel.

(see Sections 6 and

or

11

Install

the plug

in

the backing plate

access holes. 12

Install

the wheels and lower the vehicle.

Tighten the lug nuts to the torque listed

in this

by hand.

it

and tighten them securely.

13 Adjust the parking brake as described 1 1

5).

Bleed the brakes (see Section 10). Install the wheels and lower the vehicle. Check the brakes for proper operation before

9 10

in traffic.

in

of this Chapter.

Top

off the master cylinder with brake and pump the pedal several times. Lower the vehicle and check brake operation

14

Refer to illustrations 8.2a. 8.2b. 8.4a, 8.4b,

in traffic.

8.9, 8.

1

Note: The master cylinder installed on 7

Wheel cylinder

removal and

that the

master

New and

it.

factory rebuilt units are

on an exchange basis, which makes this job quite easy and will ensure that the master cylinder is in top condition. If it's decided to rebuild the master cylinder, make

available

sure a rebuild kit is available before proceeding. The factory recommends replacing the piston assemblies (including the

opposed

seals) as

addition,

if

to just the seals alone. In

the plastic reservoir

removed from

the

master

must be

cylinder,

the

must be replaced.

Removal Place rags under the fittings and prepare 1 caps or plastic bags to cover the ends of the lines once they are disconnected. Remove as much fluid as possible with a suction gun before starting this procedure. Caution: Brake fluid will damage paint. Cover all body this

fluid

before driving the vehicle

rebuild

parts

Master cylinder - removal, overhaul and installation

8

recommended

resis-

line fitting securely.

Chapter's Specifications. Section

it's

pedal

or external fluid

all,

cylinder be replaced rather than attempt to

reservoir

the brake shoes and the hub/drum

driving the vehicle

leakage)

insufficient

this

vehicle features a plastic reservoir

mated

an aluminum body.

indicated

If

service

is

to

installation

and be

careful not to spill fluid during

procedure.

2 Loosen the fittings at the ends of the brake lines where they enter the master cylinder (see illustration). To prevent rounding off the flats, use a flare-nut wrench, which wraps around the nut. Note: On later models, the lines exit the master cylinder through the bottom and require a back-up

wrench

to

hold the pressure control valves

Refer to illustration 7.3 Note: If the wheel cylinder is leaking or malfunctioning, replace it with a new or

9

factory rebuilt unit. 1

Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the rear and support it on jackstands,

of the vehicle

then block the front wheels.

Remove

the rear

wheel(s).

Remove the rear hub/drum (see Section and brake shoes (see Section 6). 3 Disconnect the brake line from the back of the wheel cylinder and plug it (see illus-

2

5)

tration).

Unbolt the wheel cylinder and remove it from the backing plate. Clean the backing plate and wheel cylinder mating surfaces. 5 Place the wheel cylinder and foam seal 4

Unscrew the brake line fitting (1), then remove the two wheel cylinder bolts (2)

7.3

Unscrew the brake line fittings (4) from the master cylinder - a flare nut

8.2a

wrench

is

recommended

9-10

Chapter 9

Brakes wood to prevent damage to the cylinder body. Remove the primary piston snap-hng by 6 depressing the piston and removing the hng with snap-ring pliers. of

CAP AND GASKET ASSY

FLUID

CONTROL

VALVE

REED SWITCH ASSY SECONDARY

GROMMET __ V-§ECONDAR

8.2b Detailed cutaway of a model master cylinder

later

7 Remove the primary piston assembly from the bore. 8 Remove the secondary piston assembly from the bore. It may be necessary to remove the master cylinder from the vise and invert it, carefully tapping it against a block of wood to

expel the piston.

9

the reservoir

If

grommets have been

leaking, pry the reservoir from the

master

cylinder (see illustration). Warning: resen/oir

a

PRIMARY PISTON ASSY

RIGHT REAR

PRESSURE CONTROL

new

10 the 11

tration).

3

Pull

the brake lines

cylinder slightly

away from the master

and plug the ends

to prevent

booster (see illustrations). Pull the master cylinder off the studs and lift it out of the engine compartment. Again, be careful not to spill the fluid as this is done.

contamination.

Unplug the electrical connector at the master cylinder, then remove the two nuts attaching the master cylinder to the power 4

Overhaul Mount the master

5

sure to

line

cylinder

in

a vise. Be

the vise jaws with rags or blocks

with

one.

you removed the

reservoir, also

grommets from

sealing

Using a

12mm

the

remove master

socket, remove the fluid

inspect for contamination under the seal or

Other than cleaning, the

fluid control valve is

and inspect them

control valves

8.9

If it's

contaml-

necessary to remove the

broken

reservoir), pry

it

a screwdriver

CAP AND GASKET ASSEMBLY RESERVOIR AND FLOAT ASSY

REED SWITCH ASSY MASTER CYUNDER BODY RIGHT REAR

PRESSURE CONTROL VALVE

^5»— SNAP RING PRIMARY PISTON ASSY

Exploded view of the master cylinder

for

fluid

reservoir (to replace leaking seals or a

power booster

PRIMARY GROMMET

in

not serviceable and must be replaced as an assembly. 12 On later models, remove the pressure

connector to allow removal)

8.1 1

the

If

must be replaced

the center orifice (see illustration). Note:

8.4b

cylinder off the

it

control valve from the master cylinder and

Remove the two master cylinder mounting nuts and pull the master

8.4a Unplug the electrical connector from the master cylinder reservoir (dislodge the locking tab on the underside of the

removed,

cylinder.

VALVE whiie loosening the line fittings (see illus-

If

is

off with

9

3 1

.

Chapter 9 nation (see illustration 8.2b).

When you push down on

13 Clean the master cylinder body, the primary and secondary piston assemblies, fluid control valve, pressure control valves and the reservoir with brake system cleaner. Warning: DO NOT. under any circumstances, use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake

your finger

the piston

the hole, allowing the

off

be expelled. When only brake

to

9-11

Brakes it'll

force

air

inside

fluid is

being

ejected from the hole, replace the plug and

go on to the other port. 28 Refill the master cylinder reservoir and install

the cap.

careful not to

let

any brake

fluid drip

on the

vehicle's paint. Rinse the area around the

master cylinder with water immediately to

wash away residual fluid that engine compartment paint. 38 Refer to Section 10 hydraulic system bleeding.

will

damage

the

brake

for further

parts.

14

Inspect the master cylinder piston bore

corrosion and score marks. If any corrosion or damage in the bore is evident, replace the master cylinder assembly. Don't use abrasives to try to clean it up. 15 Inspect the reservoir for cracks and distortion. If any damage is evident, replace it. 16 Dip new replacement piston assemblies in clean brake fluid. 17 Lubricate the cylinder bore with clean brake fluid and install the secondary (smaller) piston assembly into the bore, spring end for

(see illustration 8.11). 18 Install the primary piston assembly in the cylinder bore, spring end first (see illustration 8.11), depress it and install the snapnng. first

1

Install

the fluid control valve and tighten

it

to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifi-

cations.

the reservoir was removed, install new grommets in the master cylinder, lubricating them with brake fluid first. 21 Install a new reservoir the old one was

20

If

if

removed. 22 On later models, reinstall the pressure control valves and tighten them to the torque listed in this

Chapter's Specifications.

through 28). 24 Insert threaded plugs of the correct size into the brake line outlet holes and fill the reservoirs with brake fluid. The master cylinder should be supported so brake fluid won't spill during the bench bleeding procedure. at a

29 Install the master cylinder over the studs on the power brake booster and tighten the 30 Using your

fingers, thread the

brake

line

master cylinder. Since the master cylinder is still a bit loose, it can be

moved

Slightly

order for the fittings to Don't strip the threads as the in

thread

in

fittings

are tightened.

easily.

Tighten the brake line fittings and the two mounting nuts. 32 Fill the master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid. It will be necessary to bleed the master cylinder to remove any air that may be 31

present.

33 Place plenty of rags or newspapers under and around the master cylinder to absorb the brake fluid that will escape during the bleeding process. It is also recommended that eye protection be worn while performing

its

Refer to

illustration

lines

-

9.3

Inspection About every six months, with the vehicle and supported securely on jackstands. the rubber hoses which connect the steel brake lines with the front and rear brake assemblies should be inspected for cracks, chafing of the outer cover, leaks, blisters and other damage. These are important and vulnerable parts of the brake system and inspection should be complete. A light and 1

raised

mirror

he helpful

will

replace

it

with a

Flexible

34 With an assistant seated in the driver's seat, loosen the upper secondary brake line

2

the one closest to the front of the

3

fitting,

vehicle, approximately 3/4-turn.

assistant

Have your

push the brake pedal slowly

to the

and hold it there. Tighten the fitting and have the assistant slowly return the pedal to the released position. Wait five seconds, then repeat this operation until the stream of fluid from the loosened fitting is free of air bubbles.

35 Repeat the procedure at the upper primary brake line fitting (the one closest to the power booster). Be sure to keep an eye on the fluid level 36 Fill the reservoir to the MAX indicator and install

37

the

filler

Remove

cap.

the newspapers or rags.

Be

for

a thorough check.

Clean

new

one.

hose replacement

all dirt

away from the ends

of the

hose.

Disconnect the brake

fitting

line

from the hose

using a back-up wrench on the

fitting

(see illustration). Be careful not to bend the

frame bracket or line. If necessary, soak the connections with penetrating oil. Unbolt the hose bracket from the strut 4 assembly. Remove the U-clip from the female fitting 5 at the bracket (see illustration 9.3) and remove the hose from the bracket. Disconnect the hose from the caliper, 6 discarding the copper washers on either side of the fitting block.

Using new copper washers, attach new brake hose to the caliper. Tighten 7

fluid fitting bolt to

the torque listed

bracket. With the least

hose,

the

the

in this

install

the

amount

fitting in this

of twist

in

the

position (use the

on the hose to help determine twist). Note: The v/eight of the vehicle should be on the suspension, so the vehicle should not be

stripe

original position.

26 Stroke the piston three or four times for each outlet to ensure that all the air has been

raised while positioning the hose.

expelled.

9

27 Since high pressure isn't involved in the bench bleeding procedure, there is an alternative to the removal and replacement of the plugs with each stroke of the piston assembly. Before pushing in on the piston assembly, remove one of the plugs completely. Before releasing the piston, however, instead of replacing the plug,

the frame bracket.

master cylinder. Wait several seconds for the brake fluid to be drawn from the reservoir into the piston bore, then repeat the procedure.

a

Chapter's Specifications. 8 Pass the female fitting through the frame

air

simply put your finger tightly over the hole to keep air from being drawn back into the

If

hose exhibits any of the above conditions,

the bleeding procedure.

from the master cylinder. To prevent air from being drawn back in, the appropriate plug must be tightened before allowing the piston to return to

Brake hoses and

inspection and replacement

fittings into the

time and push the

piston assembly into the bore to force

9

nuts only finger tight at this time.

floor

23 Note: Whenever the master cylinder is removed, the complete hydraulic system must be bled. The time required to bleed the system can be reduced if the master cylinder is filled vi/ith fluid and bench bled before it's installed on the vehicle (refer to Steps 24

25 Loosen one plug

Installation

Install

the U-clip

10 Attach the brake

in

line to

fitting at

the hose

using a back-up wrench on the 1

Q

the female

fitting

fitting.

Mount the brake hose bracket

to the strut

assembly. 12 Carefully

To disconnect the brake hose from the steel brake line, place a back-up wrench (1) on the hose fitting and loosen the tube nut with a flare nut wrench (2) (the U-clip [arrow] can now be removed) 9.3

check to make sure the suspension or steering components don't make contact with the hose. Have an assistant push on the vehicle and also turn the steering wheel from lock-to-lock duhng inspection. 1

Bleed the brake system as described

Section 10.

in

7

9-12

Chapter 9

10.8 When bleeding the brakes, a hose is connected to the bleeder screw and then submerged in bral^-

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6-103

Typical underhood

component

ll-tl

•

S-?03

I

1^9

263 L«-l

'"

wiring diagram (1985 to 1987

US models)

-

continued

/v.

I

r.

'-A---i.--''-A-

-

ll-ii D

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.

.^-..^...^...^

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— — Chapter 12 Chassis

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Chapter 12 Chassis

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