Haynes Ford & Mercury Full-Size Models Automotive Repair Manual 1850104611, 9781850104612

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Our Price

HALF PRICE

Merc

05-16 6 10163760 —100010

1975 thru 1987 □ V8 engines * Ford: LTD (1975 thru 1982), Custom 500, Country Squire, Crown Victoria Mercury: Marquis (1975 thru 1982), Grand Marquis, Colony Park

Haynes Repair Manual Based on a complete teardown and rebuild

^CLEOV^

Includes essential information for today’s more complex vehicles

Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2019 with funding from Kahle/Austin Foundation

https://archive.org/details/fordmercuryfullsOOOOmuir

Ford& Mercury Full-size Models

Automotive Repair Manual by Chaun Muir and John H Haynes Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers

Models covered: Ford: LTD (1975 thru 1982); Custom 500; Country Squire; Crown Victoria Mercury: Marquis (1975 thru 1982); Grand Marquis;

Colony Park Engines covered: 225 (4.2); 302 (5.0); 351 (5.8); 400 (6.6); 460 (7.5)

Haynes Publishing Group

Sparkford Nr Yeovil Somerset BA22 7JJ England Haynes North America, Inc

861 Lawrence Drive Newbury Park California 91320 USA

Acknowledgments We are grateful for the help and cooperation of the Ford Motor Company for their assistance with technical information, certain illustrations and vehicle photos.

© Haynes Publishing Group 1985, 1987, 1988 A book in the Haynes Owners Workshop Manual Series Printed by J.H. Haynes & Co., Ltd. Sparkford Nr. Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 85010 461

1

Library of Congress Catalog Card Number 87-80833 While every atttempt is made to ensure that the information in this manual is correct, no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

Contents Introductory pages About this manual Introduction to the Ford Full-size passenger cars Vehicle identification numbers General dimensions Buying parts Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Booster battery (jump) starting Jacking and towing Automotive chemicals and lubricants Safety first! Conversion factors Troubleshooting

5 5 11 11 11 12 18 19 20 21 22 23

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

29

Chapter 2 Part A V8 engines

53

Chapter 2 Part B General engine overhaul procedures

74

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

96

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

102

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

126

Chapter 6 Emissions control systems

137

Chapter 7 Automatic transmission

150

Chapter 8 Driveline

159

Chapter 9 Brakes

169

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

191

Chapter 11 Body

203

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

221

Wiring diagrams

234

Chapter 13 Supplement: Revisions and information on 1985 and later models

271

Index

276

1984 Ford Crown Victoria

4

/

About this manual Its purpose The purpose of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done, even if you choose to have it done by a dealer ser¬ vice department or a repair shop; it provides information and procedures for routine maintenance and servicing; and it offers diagnostic and repair procedures to follow when trouble occurs. It is hoped that you will use the manual to tackle the work yourself. For many simpler jobs, doing it yourself may be quicker than arranging an appointment to get the vehicle into a shop and making the trips to leave it and pick it up. More importantly, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the expense the shop must pass on to you to cover its labor and overhead costs. An added benefit is the sense of satisfaction and accomplishment that you feel after having done the job yourself.

Using the manual The manual is divided into Chapters. Each Chapter is divided into numbered Sections, which are headed in bold type between horizon¬ tal lines. Each Section consists of consecutively numbered paragraphs.

The two types of illustrations used (figures and photographs), are referenced by a number preceding their caption. Figure reference numbers denote Chapter and numerical sequence within the Chapter; (i.e. Fig. 3.4 means Chapter 3, figure number 4). Figure captions are followed by a Section number which ties the figure to a specific por¬ tion of the text. All photographs apply to the Chapter in which they appear and the reference number pinpoints the pertinent Section and paragraph; i.e., 3.2 means Section 3, paragraph 2. Procedures, once described in the text, gre not normally repeated. When it is necessary to refer to another Chapter, the reference will be given as Chapter and Section number i.e. Chapter 1/16). Cross references given without use of the word 'Chapter' apply to Sections and/or paragraphs in the same Chapter. For example, 'see Section 8' means in the same Chapter. Reference to the left or right side of the vehicle is based on the assumption that one is sitting in the driver's seat, facing forward. Even though extreme care has been taken during the preparation of this manual, neither the publisher nor the author can accept respon¬ sibility for any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

Introduction to the Ford Fullsize passenger cars This manual covers maintenance and repair operations for the 1975 through 1987 Ford Fullsize passenger cars, with the exception of the LTD and Marquis, which are covered here only through 1982 due to major de¬ sign changes in 1983. Other models included in this manual are the Grand Marquis, the Cus¬ tom 500, the Colony Park, the Country Squire and the Crown Victoria.

Over the years covered in this manual, Ford utilized five different V8 engines, fuel injection, five different carburetors, eight separate emissions systems, four automatic transmissions, three types of differentials, two types of front suspension and disc or disc/drum brake systems. All models in all years come equipped with power steering.

1984 Mercury Grand Marquis

1981 Ford Country Squire

7

V.

1981 Ford Crown Victoria

8

1979 Ford Country Squire

r

v.

9

10

1FABP43F9DB100001 VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER WORLD MANUFACTURER IDENTIFIER

RESTRAINT SYSTEM TYPE

MFD. BY FORD MOTOR CO. IN U.S.A. DATE:

09-82

CONSTANT"P"

GVWR: 5347 LB — 2425 KG

FRONT GAWR: 27)4 LB 1231 KG

LINE, SERIES, BODY TYPE

REAR GAWR: 2683 LB 1216 KG

ENGINE TYPE CHECK DIGIT MODEL YEAR

THIS VEHICLE CONFORMS TO ALL APPLICABLE FEDERAL MOTOR VEHICLE SAFETY AND BUMPER STANDARDS IN EFFECT ON THE DATE OF MANUFACTURE SHOWN ABOVE

ASSEMBLY PLANT

PRODUCTION SEQUENCE NUMBER

©-

-VEHICLE TYPE

(2>

-PAINT

©-

- BODY TYPE CODE

©-

-VINYL ROOF

©-

- BODY SIDE MOULDING TRIM CODE - (FIRST CODE LETTER : FABRIC AND SEAT TYPE, SECOND CODE = COLOR)

©Typical vehicle identificataion number label — 1983 shown, other years similar

©-

®" ®" ®-

®®-

■ AIR CONDITIONING - RADIO - SUN/MOON ROOF • AXLE RATIO - TRANSMISSION SPRINGS - FRONT L. AND R., REAR L. AND R. (4 CODES) • DISTRICT SALES OFFICE PTO/SPL ORDER NUMBER ACCESSORY RESERVE LOAD

FORD

MOTOR COMPANY

VEHICLE EMISSION CONTROL INFORMATION SET PARKING BRAKE AND BLOCK WHEELS. DISCONNECT AUTOMATIC PARKING BRAKE RELEASE (IF SO EQUIPPED) MAKE ALL ADJUSTMENTS WITH ENGINE AT NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERATURE. ACCESSORIES AND HEADLIGHTS OFF PUT AIR CLEANER IN POSITION WHEN CHECKING ALL ENGINE SPEEDS MAKE ALL ADJUSTMENTS WITH TRANSMISSION IN NEUTRAL IGNITION TIMING-DISCONNECT AND PLUG DISTRIBUTOR VACUUM HOSE ADJUST TIMING TO 10* BTDC. 800 RPM MAX RECONNECT HOSE FAST IDLE-DISCONNECT AND PLUG EGR VALVE VACUUM HOSE PUT FAST IDLE SCREW ON KICKDOWN STEP OF FAST IDLE CAM. RUN ENGINE UNTIL RADIATOR COOLING FAN COMES ON ADJUST TO 2400 RPM (2200 RPM "OR VEHICLE WITH LESS THAN 100 MILES) RECONNECT EGR VACUUM HOSE

VACUUM HOSE

CURB IDLE1 VACUUM OPERATED THROTTLE MODULATOR (VOTM) OFF- PUT FAST IDLE SCREW ON SECOND STEP OF FAST IDLE CAM AND RUN ENGINE UNTIL RADIATOR COOLING FAN COMES ON ACCELERATE ENGINE MOMENTARILY DISCONNECT ANO PLUG VO TM VACUUM HOSE ADJUST TO 000 RPM BY TURNING THROTTLE STOP ADJUSTING SCREW (700 RPM FOR VEHICLE WITH LESS THAN 100 MILES) ADJUST DASHPOT CLEARANCE TO 2 VO TM ON- PLACE HEATER SELECTOR ON HEAT. TEMPERATURE ON COOL AND BLOWER ON HIGH CONNECT A VACUUM HOSE FROM MANIFOLD VACUUM TO THE VOTM. WITH RADIATOR COOLING FAN RUNNING. ADJUST TO 1200 RPM BY TURNING SCREW ON TOP OF VOTM (1100 RPM FOR VEHICLE WITH LESS THAN 100 MILES) RE9T0RE VOTM VACUUM CONNECTIONS SEE SHOP MANUAL FOR CHOKE AND IDLE MIXTURE ADJUSTMENT INFORMATION

This VEHICLE CONFORMS TO U.S E P A REGULATIONS APPLICABLE TO 1983 MODEL YEAR NEW MOTOR VEHICLES COMPLIANCE DEMONSTRATED AND DESIGNED FOR PRINCIPAL USE BELOW 4000 FEET FOR NEW VEHICLE COMPLIANCE ABOVE 4000 FEET. SEE SERVICE PUBLICATIONS E3AE-9C405-

DFS

CATALYST

spark plug awsf - 32 GAP- .042- 046 1 6 LITER /3CM OF M 1.6 V2GOK6 EGR/AIP/TWC

Typical vehicle emissions control label

V

ROUTING

- —^ A/C ONLY

Vehicle identification numbers Modifications are a continuing and unpublicized process in vehicle manufacturing. Since spare parts manuals and lists are compiled on a numerical basis, the individual vehicle numbers are essential to cor¬ rectly identify the component required. The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is located on the driver's side of the dashboard where it meets the windshield and sometimes

on the right fender panel in the engine compartment. A data plate in¬ cluding the date of production can be found on the latch post of the driver's door. An emissions hose routing diagram and tune-up infor¬ mation can be found on the underside of the hood on some models and on the engine valve cover on other models. In this book, this label will be referred to as the Emission Control Information Label.

General dimensions 1975/1978 Overall length . 225 in Overall width. 80 in Wheelbase. 121 in

1979/1984 211 in 78 in . 114.3 in

Buying parts Replacement parts are available from many sources, which gen¬ erally fall into one of two categories-authorized dealer parts depart¬ ments and independent retail auto parts stores. Our advice concerning these parts is as follows: Retail auto parts stores: Good auto parts stores will stock fre¬ quently needed components which wear out relatively fast, such as clutch components, exhaust systems, brake parts, tune-up parts, etc. These stores often supply new or reconditioned parts on an ex¬ change basis, which can save a considerable amount of money. Dis¬ count auto parts stores are often very good places to buy materials and parts needed for general vehicle maintenance such as oil, grease, filters, spark plugs, belts, touch-up paint, bulbs, etc. They

also usually sell tools and general accessories, have convenient hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home. Authorized dealer parts department: This is the best source for parts which are unique to the vehicle and not generally available elsewhere (such as major engine parts, transmission parts, trim pieces, etc.). Warranty information:^ the vehicle is still covered under warran¬ ty, be sure that any replacement parts purchased - regardless of the source - do not invalidate the warranty! To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, have engine and chassis numbers available and, if possible, take the old parts along for posi¬ tive identification.

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Maintenance techniques

Fasteners

There are a number of techniques involved in maintenance and repair that will be referred to throughout this manual. Application of these techniques will enable the home mechanic to be more efficient, better organized and capable of performing the various tasks properly, which will ensure that the repair job is thorough and complete.

Fasteners are nuts, bolts, studs and screws used to hold two or more parts together. There are a few things to keep in mind when working with fasteners. Almost all of them use a locking device of some type, either a lock washer, locknut, locking tab or thread adhesive. All threaded fasteners should be clean and straight, with undamaged

Bolt strength markings (top — standard/SAE/USS; bottom — metric)

Grade

Hex Nut Grade 5

Identification

€>>

Class

Hex Nut Property Class 9

3 Dots

/T3\ Hex Nut Grade 8

/•(

) •> /

6 Dots Standard hex nut strength markings

Identification

Arabic 9 Hex Nut Property Class 10

©

Arabicl 0 Metric hex nut strength markings

CLASS

CLASS

10.9

9.8

CLASS 8.8

Metric stud strength markings

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities threads and undamaged corners on the hex head where the wrench fits. Develop the habit of replacing all damaged nuts and bolts with new ones. Special locknuts with nylon or fiber inserts can only be used once. If they are removed, they lose their locking ability and must be replaced with new ones. Rusted nuts and bolts should be treated with a penetrating fluid to ease removal and prevent breakage. Some mechanics'use turpentine in a spout-type oil can, which works quite well. After applying the rust penetrant, let it "work" for a few minutes before trying to loosen the nut or bolt. Badly rusted fasteners may have to be chiseled or sawed off or removed with a special nut breaker, available at tool stores. If a bolt or stud breaks off in an assembly, it can be drilled and re¬ moved with a special tool commonly available for this purpose. Most automotive machine shops can perform this task, as well as other repair procedures (such as repair of threaded holes that have been stripped out). Flat washers and lock washers, when removed from an assembly, should always be replaced exactly as removed. Replace any damaged washers with new ones. Always use a flat washer between a lock washer and any soft metal surface (such as aluminum), thin sheet metal or plastic.

Fastener sizes For a number of reasons, automobile manufacturers are making wider and wider use of metric fasteners. Therefore, it is important to be able to tell the difference between standard (sometimes called U.S., English or SAE) and metric hardware, since they cannot be interchanged. All bolts, whether standard or metric, are sized according to diameter, thread pitch and length. For example, a standard 1/2—13x1 bolt is 1/2 inch in diameter, has 13 threads per inch and is 1 inch long. An Ml 2 — 1.75 x 25 metric bolt is 1 2 mm in diameter, has a thread pitch of 1.75 mm (the distance between threads) and is 25 mm long. The two bolts are nearly identical, and easily confused, but they are not interchangeable. In addition to the differences in diameter, thread pitch and length, metric and standard bolts can also be distinguished by examining the bolt heads. To begin with, the distance across the flats on a standard bolt head is measured in inches, while the same dimension on a metric bolt is measured in millimeters (the same is true for nuts). As a result, a standard wrench should not be used on a metric bolt and a metric wrench should not be used on a standard bolt. Also, most standard bolts have slashes radiating out from the center of the head to denote the grade or strength of the bolt (which is an indication of the amount

13

of torque that can be applied to it). The greater the number of slashes, the greater the strength of the bolt (grades 0 through 5 are commonly used on automobiles). Metric bolts have a property class (grade) number, rather than a slash, molded into their heads to indicate bolt strength. In this case, the higher the number, the stronger the bolt (property class numbers 8.8, 9.8 and 10.9 are commonly used on automobiles). Strength markings can also be used to distinguish standard hex nuts from metric hex nuts. Many standard nuts have dots stamped into one side, while metric nuts are marked with a number. The greater the number of dots, or the higher the number, the greater the strength of the nut. Metric studs are also marked on their ends according to property class (grade). Larger studs are numbered (the same as metric bolts), while smaller studs carry a geometric code to denote grade. It should be noted that many fasteners, especially Grades 0 through 2, have no distinguishing marks on them. When such is the case, the only way to determine whether it is standard or metric is to measure the thread pitch or compare it to a known fastener of the same size. Standard fasteners are often referred to as SAE, as opposed to metric. However, it should be noted that SAE technically refers to a non-metric fine thread fastener only. Coarse thread non-metric fasteners are referred to as USS sizes. Since fasteners of the same size (both standard and metric) may have different strength ratings, be sure to reinstall any bolts, studs or nuts removed from your vehicle in their original locations. Also, when re¬ placing a fastener with a new one, make sure that the new one has a strength rating equal to or greater than the original.

Tightening sequences and procedures Most threaded fasteners should be tightened to a specific torque value (torque is a twisting force). Over-tightening the fastener can weaken it and cause it to break, while under-tightening can cause it to eventually come loose. Bolts, screws and studs, depending on the material they are made of and their thread diameters, have specific torque values (many of which are noted in the Specifications at the beginning of each Chapter). Be sure to follow the torque recommen¬ dations closely. For fasteners not assigned a specific torque, a general torque value chart is presented here as a guide. As was previously men¬ tioned, the size and grade of a fastener determine the amount of torque that can safely be applied to it. The figures listed on the next page are approximate for Grade 2 and Grade 3 fasteners (higher grades can tolerate higher torque values).

r

■\

Standard (SAE and USS) bolt dimensions/grade marks G Grade marks (bolt strength) L Length (in inches) T Thread pitch (number of threads per inch) D Nominal diameter (in inches)

V__

Metric bolt dimensions/grade marks P Property class (bolt strength) L Length (in millimeters) T Thread pitch (distance between threads in millimeters) D Diameter

__/

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

14

Ft -lb to 9 to 21 to 40 to 71 to 140

5 12 22 25

00

M-6. M 8. M-1 0. M-1 2. M-1 4.

Pipe thread sizes 1/8. 1/4. 3/8.

1/2.

Nm to 12 to 28 to 54 to 96 to 1 54

6 14 28 50 80

to to 18 to 33 to 35

7 17 30 34

to to to to

10 24 44 47

6 12 14 22 27 40 40 55

to to to to to to to to

9 18 20 32 38 55 60 80

9 17 19 30 37 55 55 75

to to to to to to to to

12 24 27 43 51 74 81 108

Metric thread sizes

9 19 38 68 109

U.S. thread sizes 1/4-20. 5/16-18. 5/16-24. 3/8-16. 3/8-24. 7/16 - 14. 7/16-20.

1/2

-

13. Torque Limits

Fasteners laid out in a pattern (i.e. cylinder head bolts, oil pan bolts, differential cover bolts, etc.) must be loosened or tightened in a se¬ quence to avoid warping the component. This sequence will normally be shown in the appropriate Chapter. If a specific pattern is not given, the following procedures can be used to prevent warping. Initially, the bolts or nuts should be assembled finger-tight only. Next, they should be tightened one full turn each, in a crisscross or diagonal pattern. After each one has been tightened one full turn, return to the first one and tighten them all one-half turn, following the same pattern. Finally, tighten each of them one-quarter turn at a time until each fastener has been tightened to the proper torque. To loosen and remove the fasteners, the procedure would be reversed.

Component disassembly Component disassembly should be done with care and purpose to help ensure that the parts go back together properly. Always keep track of the sequence in which parts are removed. Make note of special characteristics or marks on parts that can be installed more than one way (such as a grooved thrust washer on a shaft). It is a good idea to lay the disassembled parts out on a clean surface in the order that they were removed. It may also be helpful to make sketches or take instant photos of components before removal. When removing fasteners from a component, keep track of their loca¬ tions. Sometimes threading a bolt back in a part, or putting the washers and nut back on a stud, can prevent mix-ups later. If nuts and bolts cannot be returned to their original locations, they should be kept in a compartmented box or a series of small boxes. A cupcake or muffin tin is ideal for this purpose, since each cavity can hold the bolts and nuts from a particular area (i.e. oil pan bolts, valve cover bolts, engine mount bolts, etc.). A pan of this type is especially helpful when working on assemblies with very small parts, such as the carburetor, alternator, valve train or interior dash and trim pieces. The cavities can be marked with paint or tape to identify the contents. Whenever wiring looms, harnesses or connectors are separated, it's a good idea to identify the two halves with numbered pieces of masking tape so they can be easily reconnected.

Gasket seating surfaces Throughout any vehicle, gaskets are used to seal the mating surfaces between two parts and keep lubricants, fluids, vacuum or pressure contained in an assembly. Many times these gaskets are coated with a liquid or paste-type gasket sealing compound before assembly. Age, heat and pressure can sometimes cause the two parts to stick together so tightly that they are very difficult to separate. Often, the assembly can be loosened by striking it with a soft-faced hammer near the mating surfaces. A regular hammer can be used if a block of wood is placed between the hammer and the part. Do not hammer on cast parts or parts that could be easily damaged. With any particularly stubborn part, always recheck to make

sure that every fastener has been removed. Avoid using a screwdriver or bar to pry apart an assembly, as they can easily mar the gasket sealing surfaces of the parts (which must remain smooth). If prying is absolutely necessary, use an old broom handle, but keep in mind that extra clean-up will be necessary if the wood splinters. After the parts are separated, the old gasket must be carefully scraped off and the gasket surfaces cleaned. Stubborn gasket material can be soaked with rust penetrant or treated with a special chemical to soften it so it can be easily scraped off. A scraper can be fashioned from a piece of copper tubing by flattening and sharpening one end. Copper is recommended because it is usually softer than the surfaces to be scraped, which reduces the chance of gouging the part. Some gaskets can be removed with a wire brush, but regardless of the method used, the mating surfaces must be left clean and smooth. If for some reason the gasket surface is gouged, then a gasket sealer thick enough to fill scratches will have to be used during reassembly of the com¬ ponents. For most applications, a non-drying (or semi-drying) gasket sealer should be used.

Hose removal tips Caution: If the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, do not discon¬ nect any of the A/C hoses without first having the system depressurized by a dealer service department or an air conditioning specialist. Hose removal precautions closely parallel gasket removal precau¬ tions. Avoid scratching or gouging the surface that the hose mates against or the connection may leak. This is especially true for radiator hoses. Because of various chemical reactions, the rubber in hoses can bond itself to the metal spigot that the hose fits over. To remove a hose, first loosen the hose clamps that secure it to the spigot. Then, with slip-joint pliers, grab the hose at the clamp and rotate it around the spigot. Work it back and forth until it is completely free, then pull it off. Silicone or other lubricants will ease removal if they can be applied between the hose and the outside of the spigot. Apply the same lubri¬ cant to the inside of the hose and the outside of the spigot to simplify installation. As a last resort (and if the hose is to be replaced with a new one anyway), the rubber can be slit with a knife and the hose peeled from the spigot. If this must be done, be careful that the metal connection is not damaged. If a hose clamp is broken or damaged, do not reuse it. Wire-type clamps usually weaken with age, so it is a good idea to replace them with screw-type clamps whenever a hose is removed.

Tools A selection of good tools is a basic requirement for anyone who plans to maintain and repair his or her own vehicle. For the owner who has few tools, if any, the initial investment might seem high, but when com-

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities pared to the spiraling costs of professional auto maintenance and repair, it is a wise one. To help the owner decide which tools are needed to perform the tasks detailed in this manual, the following tool lists are offered: Maintenance and minor repair, Repair and overhaul and Special. The newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit, which is adequate for the simpler jobs performed on a vehicle. Then, as confidence and experience grow, the owner can tackle more difficult tasks, buying additional tools as they are needed. Eventually the basic kit will be expanded into the Repair and overhaul tool set. Over a period of time, the experienced do-it-yourselfer will assemble a tool set complete enough for most repair and overhaul pro¬ cedures and will add tools from the Special category when it is felt that the expense is justified by the frequency of use.

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit The tools in this list should be considered the minimum required for performance of routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair work. We recommend the purchase of combination wrenches (box-end and open-end combined in one wrench); while more expensive than openended ones, they offer the advantages of both types of wrench. Combination wrench set (1/4 in to 1 in or 6 mm to 19 mm) Adjustable wrench — 8 in Spark plug wrench (with rubber insert) Spark plug gap adjusting tool Feeler gauge set Brake bleeder wrench Standard screwdriver ©®

V8 Engines

45 Remove the exhaust manifold retaining bolts. 46 Remove the exhaust manifold. 47 Clean the mating surfaces of the exhaust manifold and the cylinder head. 48 Clean the mounting flange of the exhaust manifold and the exhaust pipe. Installation 49 Apply graphite grease to the mating surface of the exhaust manifold. 50 Position the exhaust manifold on the head and install the attaching bolts. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque in three steps, work¬ ing from the center to the ends. 51 If so equipped, install the spark plug heat shields. 52 Install the gasket or spacer between the exhaust pipe and the ex¬ haust manifold outlet. 53 Connect the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold using new retain¬ ing nuts. 54 Tighten the retaining nuts, making sure that the exhaust pipe is situated squarely in the exhaust manifold outlet. 55 Install the oil filter if the left exhaust manifold was removed (351M or 400 engine). 56 If removed, install the oil dipstick assembly. 57 Install the automatic transmission selector cross shaft at the chassis and the engine block if the vehicle is equipped with a column shifter. 58 If the right exhaust manifold was replaced, install the air cleaner heat stove, air cleaner and intake duct. 59 Start the engine and check for exhaust leaks.

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246

C

THE FUSE PONEL IS LOCATED 0N THE l.H. SIDE 0F THE STEERING COLUMN BEHINO THE LOWER STEERING COLUMN C0VER

_

1.

I 15 AMP FUSE l HAZZORO FLASHER

SYSTEM,

4

ST0P LIGHTS

2.

10.25 OMP C.B.I M/S WIPER 4 MOSHER SYSTEM. INTERMITTENT HIPER. MOSHER FluIO LEVEL INOICOT0R

3 .

IBLONK I

4.

(15 ONP FUSE I PORK LOUP,

37 11.

I 20 OMP FUSE I RADIO . CB . PREMIUM SOUND SYSTEM. P0MER ONTENNO

12.

125 OMP FUSE) O00R CI60R

0

INSTRUMENT OU10-LOMPS.

_

PONEL

TOIL

ONO CLUSTER

SIOE

MORKER/C0OCH LAMPS

(15 OMP FUSE I T/S FLOSHER. BOCK -UP LOMPS. T0M RELOY C01L FEED

6.

(20 OMP I HEOTEO 0OCKLITE RELOY. DECK LID RELEASE. SPEEO CONTROL M0OULE. ELEC TR0NIC DIGITAL CL0CK DISPLAY. ILLUMINOTI0N ENTRY M0DULE. CORNERING

E

(4

TRAILER

7.

IBLONK I

8.

(15 AMP

—

FUSE I C0URTESY LIGHTS.

4 l.H.

D00RS. D0ME . 6 L 0 V E

9. 10 .

13 .

IBLONK I

14.

125 OMP FUSE I

140.120 OMP FUSE I

0R

T0IL60TE 2-O80R

HINO0M

P0MEB

15.

IBLONK l

16.

(20 OMP FUSE) HORN

4

ELECTRONIC CONSOLE

CLOCK

CARGO

15 OMP FUSE) RADIO . OSH

(S T A T10N 18.

SMIT C H ,1

OCCY FEED

.I/P

SWITCH l

MINO0H S

I/P CI60R LI6HTERS

INSTRUMENT PANEL

4 CLUSTER

TROY, HEATER . 0/C OR OTC

ILLUMINATION .

ILLUMINATION

110 OMP FUSE) MORNING LIGHTS , L0M FUEL HORN IN6 MODULE . OU TO - LOMPS • THROTTLE SOLENOID POSITIONER. OUOL

H0OULE

I 30 OMP FUSE l HEATER. 0/C

(KEY

1 20.(30 AMD C.B.I P0MER O00R l 0CK S . OOORS CI60R LIGHTERS. T01L60TE MIN03M BOTTERY FEED.. (KEY SWITCH). P0MOER SEATS

17.

INSTRUMENT PANEL. 80*.

WAGON 0NLY) LOMPS. LU6&0&E C0MPOR TMEN T LOMPS. CL0CK FEEO. ILLUMINOTE0 ENTRY. VIS0R VONITY HIRR0R. I6NITI0N KEY MORNING BUZZER. ENGINE COMPORTMENT LP. OUT0 LAMPS

MINO0M BOTTERY FEEO

OR MOLSI.

P0LICE/OCCY RELAY

R.H.

F

I.OMP,

5.

LOMPS. P0HER HIND0M RELAY

V

LOMP. LICENSE ILLUMINOTI0N .

TAILGATE

LI6HTERS

TIMER BUZZER

OTC.

IBLONK )

1

I

3

I

3

I

252

*0*0 BfOB lA*P

1.-

.»

i

ALL

id

€ ■C€P^

i

S T 0 T I 0S

M A60N MjTM0uf

n

i

IBAIlfB

1 0tf

w

i

rr~

i

i«

Exterior lighting system, 1981 models, 4 of 6

V.

i

'is

r

r

253 i -212

*_L 08 -

-212 08 -32 Y -

-32 V — -38 Bn

0

298 P

0

HE 8 C UR Y BE OR

‘I

I

-38 BK-0 298 P 8 H -

?

I

L OhP WIRING. ALL

3'

1

EXCEPT

_«_I

STOTI0N HOG0N MIIm0uT

i

IRQIlER

I0W

1 _6_ I

?

I

8

Exterior lighting system, 1981 models, 5 of 6

(0RO

4

MERCURY

STOU0N WQG0N REOR LOUP WIRING WIT H0U T

IROIiER

r

10W

12

ml

li

I

~

i2

I

n

|

h

I

is

|

~Tt

Exterior lighting system, 1981 models, 6 of 6

V.

J

P0HE R OISTRIBuT I0N

SIR

HTR

Ri v

PBwER OISTRI0UTI0N. FUSE

P0MER (DISTRIBUTION. FUSE

L'lR

0RKR,

PANEL

iF-6i

PONE i

F

-1S3 v-lG -296

W-P -

14

L X

-57

0K

—S

P0MER

D00R

L0CK . P0HER

O00R

L0Ck

SWITCH

-52

0K

-*»

P0HER O00R

L0CX. P0WER

O00R

L0CK

SWITCH

~]

Power window system, 1981 models, 1 of 2

Power window system, 1981 models, 2 of 2

r

265

j

‘I

2

|

.

3

|

«

|

i

|

t

|

7

|

8

Windshield wiper/washer system, 1981 models S

10

11

1?

13

1 .

1«

Power door lock system, 1981 models

V.

J

256'

-A

ThE

FuSE

PANEL

IS LOCATED 8N

STEERING COLUMN BEHIND

ThE

ihE

115 AMP E USE 1 HAZARD FlOShER ST0P L16H T s A SPEEO C0NTB0L -

l.m.

l0mER

SIOE

0F

ThE

S T £ E R I N6 COLUMN COVER SYSTEM. TRAILER

T0M RELAYS.

C0RNERIN6 LAMP RELAYS >8.25 AMP C.B.I M/S HIPER A nAShEB SYSTEM. INTERMITTENT WIPER, h A 3 h t P FLUID lEvEl INDICATOR I BL ANK I 115 AMP Fuse I PARK lamp. TAIL INSTRUMENT PANEL AND CLUSTER AU ' 0 - L AMPS . SIDE MARKER/C0ACH TRAILER

AMP .

L ICENSE

LAMP ,

LUMINATION , AMPS

T0H relay .

U5 amp fuse i t/s flasher, back-up lamps, T0M RELAY C 01L FEED .C0RNERIN6 LAMP RELAY 120 AMP i HEATED BACKLITE

RELAY.

DECK

trailer

LID RELEASE.

speeo c0ntr0l module, electronic di6ital clbck DISPLAY. ILLUMINATION EN'Ry MODULE. C 0RNE RI NS lamps, P0hE R HIND0H RELAY I •» DR MDl S l . P0LICE/ACCY RELAY. TRIP M J NDE P . »UEL FILLER D00R S0LEN0ID.

A/C

Clutch

Bl ANK 115 AMP FUSE ' C0URTESY LI6h’s . INSTRUMENT PANEL. R.H. 4 L.M. D90RS. O0ME . q l 0 y E 60 > . CAP&0 iS'ATION MASON ONLY I LAMPS. LJb&A&E COMPARTMENT LAMPS. ClOCK FEED.

Illuminated En’Ry.

:&NI’I0N KEY MAPNIN6

viS0R

BuZZEP.

v on It v

EN6INE

mirror.

:0MPAR'MENT

lP,

t r ;pminoe r '30 amp

FUSE ‘ “EATER. A/c

A'C.

Power distribution, 1984 models, 1 of 2

15

14 EXTERIOR LI&HTIN&. ELECTRIC

BR -FUSE

LINK

— 291

BK-fUSE

LINK

HEATED BACKLITE. HEATED BACKLITE

-291

BK-fUSE

LINK

EXTERIOR LIGHTING.

— 291

BK-fUSE

LINK

S-1003

;