Haynes Dodge Grand Caravan Chrysler Town & Country Automotive Repair Manual 1620920441, 9781620920442

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Dodge Grand Caravan

Chrysler Town & Country

Automotive Repair Manual by Jeff Killingsworth and John H Haynes Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers

Models covered: Dodge Grand Caravan and Chrysler Town & Country 2008 through 2012 Includes Caravan Cargo models Does not include information specific to all-wheel drive or diesel engine models

AUTOMOTIVE PARTSJ &

ACES OMS MEMBER

Haynes Publishing Group Sparkford Nr Yeovil

Somerset BA22 7JJ England Haynes North America, Inc 861 Lawrence Drive Newbury Park California 91320 USA

Acknowledgements Wiring diagrams provided exclusively for Haynes North America, Inc. by Bosch Automotive Service Solutions.

© Haynes North America, Inc. 2013 With permission from J.H. Haynes & Co. Ltd.

A book in the Haynes Automotive Repair Manual Series Printed in the U.S.A. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, with-

out permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN-13: 978-1-62092-044-2 ISBN-10: 1-62092-044-1 Library of Congress Control Number: 2013941194 While every attempt is made to ensure that the information in this man-

ual is correct, no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from,

the information given. 13-304 a” |

A

Contents Introductory pages About this manual

0-5

Introduction

0-5

Vehicle identification numbers Recall information

0-6 0-7

Buying parts

0-10

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

0-10

Booster battery (jump) starting Jacking and towing

0-17 0-17

Automotive chemicals and lubricants Conversion factors

0-18 0-19

Fraction/decimal/millimeter equivalents Safety first! Troubleshooting

0-20 0-21 0-22

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

1-1

Chapter 2 PartA 3.3L and 3.8L V6 engines

2A-1

Chapter 2 PartB 3.6L and 4.0L V6 engines

2B-1

Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures

2C-1

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

3-1

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

4-1

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

5-1

Chapter 6 Emissions and engine control systems

6-1

Chapter 7 Automatic transaxle

7-1

Chapter 8 Driveaxles

8-1

Chapter 9 Brakes

9-1

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

10-1

Chapter 11 Body

11-1

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

12-1

Wiring diagrams

12-19

index

IND-1

0-4

Haynes mechanic and photographer with a 2012 Dodge Grand Caravan

About this manual Its purpose The purpose of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done, even if you choose to have it done by a dealer service department or a repair shop; it provides information and procedures for routine maintenance and servicing; and it offers diagnostic and repair procedures to follow when trouble occurs. We hope you use the manual to tackle the work yourself. For many simpler jobs, doing it yourself may be quicker than arranging an appointment to get the vehicle into a shop and making the trips to leave it and pick it up. More importantly, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the expense the shop must pass on to you to cover its labor and overhead

costs. An added benefit is the sense of satisfaction and accomplishment that you feel after doing the job yourself.

Using the manual The manual is divided into Chapters. Each Chapter is divided into numbered Sections, which are headed in bold type between horizontal lines. Each Section consists of consecutively numbered paragraphs.

At the beginning of each numbered Section you will be referred to any illustrations which apply to the procedures in that Section.

The reference numbers used in illustration captions pinpoint the pertinent Section and the Step within that Section. That is, illustration 3.2 means the illustration refers to Sec-

tion 3 and Step (or paragraph) 2 within that Section. Procedures, once described in the text, are not normaily repeated. When it’s necessary to refer to another Chapter, the reference will be givenas Chapter and Section number. Cross references given without use of the word “Chapter” apply to Sections and/or paragraphs in the same Chapter. For example, “see Section 8” means in the same Chapter. References to the left or right side of the vehicle assume you are sitting in the driver's seat, facing forward. Even though we have prepared this manual with extreme care, neither the publisher nor the author can accept responsibility for any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

NOTE A Note provides information necessary to properly complete a procedure or information which will make the procedure easier to understand.

CAUTION A Caution provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the Caution is found. Not heeding a Caution can result in damage to the assembly being worked on.

WARNING A Warning provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the Warning is found. Not heeding a Warning can result in personal injury.

Introduction to the Dodge Caravan, Grand Caravan and Chrysler Town & Country The Dodge Caravan, Grand Caravan, Chrysler Town & Country and Lancia Grand Voyager are front engine, front wheel drive mini-van models. These models feature transversely mounted V6 engines equipped with electronic multi-port fuel injection. The engine drives the front wheels through a four-speed or six-speed automatic transaxle

via independent driveaxles. The fully-independent front suspension consists of coil spring/strut units, and lower control arms with stabilizer bar links connecting the stabilizer bar..The rear suspension uses a beam axle, trailing arms, shock absorbers and spindle/hub units supported by coil springs. A track bar locates the beam axle,

and is connected between the beam axle unit and the vehicle body. A rear stabilizer bar is installed on some models. The power-assisted rack-and-pinion steering unit is mounted behind the engine. Front brakes and rear brakes are disctype. Power brake assist is standard with an

Antilock Brake System (ABS) optional.

Vehicle identification numbers Modifications are a continuing and unpublicized process in vehicle manufacturing. Since spare parts manuals and lists are compiled on a numerical basis, the individual vehicle numbers are essential to correctly identify the component required.

Vehicle Identification Number

(VIN) This very important identification number is stamped on a plate attached to the left side of the dashboard just inside the windshield on the driver’s side of the vehicle (see illustration). The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certificate of Title and Registration. It contains information such as where and when the vehi-

cle was manufactured, the body style.

the model year and

VIN year and engine codes Two particularly important pieces of information located in the VIN are the model year and engine codes. Counting from the left, the engine code is the eighth digit and the model year code is the 10th digit. On the models covered by this manual the engine codes are:

H........3.3L, E........3.3L, P........3.8L, «Rep ea 3.8L, G........3.6L, X....+-4.0L,

2008 2009 2008 2009 2011 2008

only - 2010 (EGV) only - 2010 (EGL) and later (ERB) - 2010 (EGQ)

The VIN plate is visible from outside of the vehicle, through the driver’s side of the windshield

On the models covered by this manual the model year codes are:

BixLetee 2008 O cel oeeerste 2009 A eeeeebss2010 Bet e8 2011 Cente 2012

Equipment identification plate This plate is located on the inside of the

hood. It contains valuable information concerning the production of the vehicle as well as information on all production or special equipment.

Safety Certification label The Safety Certification label is affixed

to the left front door (see illustration). The plate contains the name of the manufacturer, the month and year of production, the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the safety certification statement. This label also contains the paint code. It is especially useful for matching the color and type of paint during repair work.

Engine identification number The engine identification number on all engines is stamped into the rear of the engine block, below the cylinder head.

Transaxle identification

number The ID number on the automatic transaxle is stamped into the left front corner of the transaxle (see illustration).

The Vehicle Safety Certification label is affixed to the end of the driver’s door

Automatic transaxle identification number location

Recall information Vehicle recalis are carried out by the manufacturer in the rare event of a possible safety-related defect. The vehicle’s registered owner is contacted at the address on file at the Department of Motor Vehicles and given the details of the recall. Remedial work is carried out free of charge at a dealer service department.

Recall date

2/5/2009

6/3/2010

If you are the new owner of a used vehicle which was subject to a recall and you want to be sure that the work has been carried out, it’s best to contact a dealer service department and ask about your individual vehicle you'll need to furnish them your Vehicle Iden-

tification Number (VIN). The table below is based on informa-

tion provided by the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), the body which oversees vehicle recalls in the United States. The recall database is updated constantly. For the latest information on vehicle recalls, check the NHTSA website at www.nhtsa.gov, www.safercar.gov or call the NHTSA hotline at 1-888-327-4236.

Recall campaign number

09V046000

10V235000

2009 Dodge Grand Caravan and Chrysler Town & Country

On some models, unused electrical connectors for the blind spot detection system may become corroded and could short circuit, which can cause a variety of conditions. If the fuse for this circuit does not blow, the connectors could overheat and potentially catch fire.

2008, 2009 Dodge Grand Caravan and Chrysler Town & Country

Some models may have been built with an improperly routed wire harness that may have a condition where the lower sliding door hinge bracket can make contact and wear through the wire insulation. A short circuit could occur inside the sliding door, overheating the latch, possibly resulting in a fire.

0-8

Recall information

Recall date | Recall campaign number

12/8/2010

3/1/2011

6/8/2011

8/3/2011

10V611000

11V139000

11V315000

11V394000

Model(s) affected

2008 Chrysler Town & Country and Dodge Grand Caravan

2010, 2011 Chrysler Town & Country and Dodge Grand Caravan

2011 Dodge Grand Caravan and Chrysler Town & Country

2008 Chrysler Town & Country and Dodge Grand Caravan

Some models may experience a heating and air conditioner (HVAC) condensate leak from the HVAC drain grommet onto the occupant restraint control (ORC) module, which can lead to the illumination of the airbag warning light and a potential inadvertent airbag deployment without warning. An inadvertent airbag deployment could result in injury to the seat occupant in front of the deploying airbag and/ or a vehicle crash.

Some models may experience ignition key displacement from accessory position while driving engine to shut off. Engine shut off could increase the risk of a crash.

inadvertent the run to causing the while driving

Some models may have been built with a missing or incorrectly installed steering column pivot rivet. A missing or incorrectly installed rivet could compromise the ability of the steering column to support the occupant loads in the event of a frontal crash, decreasing the effectiveness of the frontal impact safety system. As a result, the condition may increase the potential for injury in a frontal crash.

Some models may experience a heating and air conditioner (HVAC) condensate leak from the HVAC drain grommet onto the occupant restraint control (ORC) module, which can lead to the illumination of the airbag warning light and a potential inadvertent airbag deployment without warning. An inadvertent airbag deployment could result in injury to the seat occupant in front of the deploying airbag and/ or a vehicle crash.

Recall information

0-9

Recall date | Recall campaign number

9/29/2011

4/3/2012

11V487000

2012 Chrysler Town & Country and Dodge Grand Caravan

12V141000

2012 Chrysler Town & Country and Dodge Grand Caravan

On some models equipped with 3.6L engines, the engine may experience connecting rod bearing failure due to debris inside the engine block. Connecting rod failure may lead to engine seizure which may increase the risk of a crash.

Some models may be equipped with right rear hub and bearing assemblies that were not fully machined. This could result in a decrease in durability, which may lead to wheel separation, increasing the risk of a crash.

Some models may be equipped with a right

5/2/2012

12V191000

201 bani ee Sar AS CountryChrysiet“rawana, and Dodge Grand |“goPrOmeuss ; mley, C

aravan

be required in order to stop the power liftgate : : ; during final closing stages. The power liftgate door may close on an appendage, increasing the risk of injury.

0-10

Buying parts Replacement parts are available from many sources, which generally fall into one of two categories - authorized dealer parts departments and independent retail auto parts stores. Our advice concerning these parts is

as follows: Retail auto parts stores: Good auto parts stores will stock frequently needed components which wear out relatively fast, such as clutch components, exhaust systems, brake parts, tune-up parts, etc. These stores often supply new or reconditioned parts on

an exchange basis, which can save a considerable amount of money. Discount auto parts stores are often very good places to buy materials and parts needed for general vehicle maintenance such as oil, grease, filters, spark plugs, belts, touch-up paint, bulbs, etc. They also usually sell tools and general accessories, have convenient hours, charge

lower prices and can often be found not far from home. Authorized dealer parts department: This is the best source for parts which are

unique to the vehicle and not generally available elsewhere (such as major engine parts, transmission parts, trim pieces, etc.). Warranty information: \f the vehicle is still covered under warranty, be sure that any replacement parts purchased regardless of the source - do not invalidate the warranty! To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, have engine and chassis numbers available and, if possible, take the old parts along for positive identification.

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Maintenance techniques There are a number of techniques involved in maintenance and repair that will be referred to throughout this manual. Application of these techniques will enable the home mechanic to be more efficient, better organized and capable of performing the various tasks properly, which will ensure that the repair job is thorough and complete.

ers may have to be chiseled or sawed off or removed with a special nut breaker, available at tool stores.

Fasteners Fasteners

must be replaced with new ones. Rusted nuts and bolts should be treated with a penetrating fluid to ease removal and prevent breakage. Some mechanics use turpentine in a spout-type oil can, which works quite well. After applying the rust penetrant, let it work for a few minutes before trying to loosen the nut or bolt. Badly rusted fasten-

are nuts, bolts, studs and

screws used to hold two or more parts together. There are a few things to keep in

mind when working with fasteners. Almost all of them use a locking device of some type, either a lockwasher, locknut, locking tab or thread adhesive. All threaded fasteners should be clean and straight, with undamaged threads and undamaged corners on the hex head where the wrench fits. Develop the habit of replacing all damaged nuts and bolts

with new ones. Special locknuts with nylon or fiber inserts can only be used once. If they are removed, they lose their locking ability and

If a bolt or stud breaks off in an assembly, it can be drilled and removed with a special tool commonly available for this purpose. Most automotive machine shops can perform this task, as well as other repair procedures, such as the repair of threaded holes that have been stripped out. Flat washers

and

lockwashers,

when

removed from an assembly, should always be replaced exactly as removed. Replace any damaged washers with new ones. Never use a lockwasher on any soft metal surface (such as aluminum), thin sheet metal or plastic.

Fastener sizes For a number of reasons, automobile manufacturers are making wider and wider use of metric fasteners. Therefore, it is important to be able to tell the difference between standard (sometimes called U.S. or SAE) and metric hardware, since they cannot be interchanged. All bolts, whether standard or metric, are sized according to diameter, thread pitch and length. For example, a standard 1/2 - 13 x 1 bolt is 1/2 inch in diameter, has 13 threads per inch and is 1 inch long. An M12 - 1.75 x 25 metric bolt is 12 mm in diameter, has a thread pitch of 1.75 mm (the distance between threads) and is 25 mm long. The two bolts are nearly identical, and easily confused, but they are not interchangeable. In addition to the differences in diameter, thread pitch and length, metric and standard bolts can also be distinguished by examining the bolt heads. To begin with, the distance across the flats on a standard bolt head is measured in inches, while the same dimension on a metric bolt is sized in millimeters

0-11

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities LSE

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(the same is true for nuts). As a result, a standard wrench should not be used on a metric bolt and a metric wrench should not be used on a standard bolt. Also, most standard bolts have slashes radiating out from the center of the head to denote the grade or strength of the bolt, which is an indication of the amount of torque that can be applied to it. The greater the number of slashes, the greater the strength of the bolt. Grades 0 through 5 are commonly used on automobiles. Metric bolts have a property class (grade) number, rather than a slash, molded into their heads to indicate bolt strength. In this case, the higher the

dots, or the higher the number, the greater the strength of the nut. Metric studs are also marked on their ends according to property class (grade). Larger studs are numbered (the same as met-

number, the stronger the bolt. Property class numbers 8.8, 9.8 and 10.9 are commonly used on automobiles.

Standard fasteners are often referred to as SAE, as opposed to metric. However, it should be noted that SAE technically refers to a non-metric fine thread fastener only. Coarse thread non-metric fasteners are referred to as USS sizes. Since fasteners of the same size (both standard and metric) may have different

Strength markings can also be used to distinguish standard hex nuts from metric hex nuts. Many standard nuts have dots stamped into one side, while metric nuts are marked with a number. The greater the number of

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ric bolts), while smaller studs carry a geometric code to denote grade.

It should be noted that many fasteners, especially Grades 0 through 2, have no dis-

tinguishing marks on them. When such is the case, the only way to determine whether it is standard or metric is to measure the thread pitch or compare it to a known fastener of the same size.

Grade 1 or 2

Grade 5

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Identification

Grade

Most threaded fasteners should be tightened to a specific torque value (torque is the twisting force applied to a threaded component such as a nut or bolt). Overtightening the fastener can weaken it and cause it to break, while undertightening can cause it to eventually come loose. Bolts, screws and studs, depending on the material they are made of and their thread diameters, have specific torque values, many of which are noted in the Specifications at the beginning of each Chapter. Be sure to follow the torque recommendations closely. For fasteners not assigned a

Grade 8

Identification

Property Class 9

»o° Hex Nut

Hex Nut Grade 8

Property Class 10

6 Dots

Standard hex nut strength markings

Class 10.9

Class 9.8

Class 8.8

Arabic 10

Metric hex nut strength markings

ETSI

Tightening sequences and procedures

Hex Nut

Hex Nut Grade 5

A

strength ratings, be sure to reinstall any bolts, studs or nuts removed from your vehicle in their original locations. Also, when replacing a fastener with a new one, make sure that the new one has a strength rating equal to or greater than the original.

Bolt strength marking (standard/SAE/USS; bottom - metric)

Grade

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Metric stud strength markings 00-1 HAYNES

0-12 pS

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities aS

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specific torque, a general torque value chart is presented here as a guide. These torque values are for dry (unlubricated) fasteners threaded into steel or cast iron (not aluminum). As was previously mentioned, the size and grade of a fastener determine the amount of torque that can safely be applied to it. The figures listed here are approximate for Grade 2 and Grade 3 fasteners. Higher grades can tolerate higher torque values. Fasteners laid out in a pattern, such as

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cylinder head bolts, oil pan bolts, differential

cover bolts, etc., must be loosened or tightened in sequence to avoid warping the component. This sequence will normally be shown in the appropriate Chapter. If a specific pattern is not given, the following procedures can be used to prevent warping. Initially, the bolts or nuts should be assembled finger-tight only. Next, they should be tightened one full turn each, in a crisscross or diagonal pattern. After each one has

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been tightened one full turn, return to the first one and tighten them all one-half turn, following the same pattern. Finally, tighten each of them one-quarter turn at a time until each fastener has been tightened to the proper torque. To loosen and remove the fasteners, the procedure would be reversed.

Component disassembly Component disassembly should be done with care and purpose to help ensure that

Metric thread sizes TS bald aOR os 08h TR a aR RB cele ec beniirtit near Arnis napsiah Mae one SLO aR ARS e ites coe iaieneeale oySeid 1 ei ala aR ne: SM aR gi ah RY paths MMe ahs on Mra WIS A 8

Ft-Ibs 6 to 9 14 to 21 28 to 40 50 to 71 80 to 140

Nm 9 to 12 19 to 28 38 to 54 68 to 96 109 to 154

Pipe thread sizes AB ek Sie Lc Sloe TR aR aa ht gf AA esc cmee tansoR ented su oe aN ed SB Aen ee he ae ee ; Fee SP BEIRUT HDI

5 to 8 12 to 18 22 to 33 25 to 35

7 to 10 17 to 24 30 to 44 34 to 47

U.S. thread sizes G7 31) Mee ees Ca RE ens BBS A8:,.. pee aeee MeN ed etiam BIG 324). peas NG OS ee SIG AG oy. ce cee ee cc ce: RU REM cE a Ae Er ei Mae aes! IDAAA ao Go laa cc tae ce Meco nS Ue eel TAG 20 tee ec ea fs Be i (UR Re SABO Ne OM Loran oat ead

6 to 9 12 to 18 14 to 20 22 to 32 27 to 38 40 to 55 40 to 60 55 to 80

9 to 12

17 19 30 37

to to to to

24 27 43 51

55 to 74

55 to 81 75 to 108

| ma ildddd bilidiletetlad

Standard (SAE and USS) bolt dimensions/grade marks Grade marks (bolt strength) Length (in inches) Thread pitch (number of threads per inch) 4xr®Nominal diameter (in inches) oO

Metric bolt dimensions/grade marks Property class (bolt strength) Length (in millimeters) Thread pitch (distance between threads in millimeters)

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Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Micrometer set

the parts go back together properly. Always keep track of the sequence in which parts are removed. Make note of special characteristics or marks on parts that can be installed more than one way, such as a grooved thrust washer on a shaft. It is a good idea to lay the disassembled parts out on a clean surface in the order that they were removed. It may also be helpful to make sketches or take instant photos of components before removal. When removing fasteners from a component, keep track of their locations. Sometimes threading a bolt back in a part, or putting the washers and nut back on a stud, can prevent mix-ups later. If nuts and bolts cannot be returned to their original locations, they should be kept in a compartmented box or a series of small boxes. A cupcake or muffin tin is ideal for this purpose, since each cavity can hold the bolts and nuts from a particular area (i.e. oil pan bolts, valve cover bolts, engine mount bolts, etc.). A pan of this type is especially helpful when working on assemblies with very small parts, such as the carburetor, alternator, valve train or interior dash and trim pieces. The cavities can be marked with paint or tape to identify the contents. Whenever wiring looms, harnesses or connectors are separated, it is a good idea to identify the two halves with numbered pieces of masking tape so they can be easily reconnected.

Gasket sealing surfaces Throughout any vehicle, gaskets are used to seal the mating surfaces between two parts and keep lubricants, fluids, vacuum or pressure contained in an assembly. Many times these gaskets are coated with a liquid or paste-type gasket sealing compound before assembly. Age, heat and pressure can sometimes cause the two parts to stick together so tightly that they are very difficult to separate. Often, the assembly can be loosened by striking it with a soft-face hammer near the mating surfaces. A regular hammer can be used if a block of wood is placed between the hammer and the part. Do

0-13

Dial indicator set

not hammer on cast parts or parts that could be easily damaged. With any particularly stubborn part, always recheck to make sure that every fastener has been removed. Avoid using a screwdriver or bar to pry apart an assembly, as they can easily mar the gasket sealing surfaces of the parts, which must remain smooth. If prying is absolutely necessary, use an old broom handle, but keep in mind that extra clean up will be necessary if the wood splinters. After the parts are separated, the old gasket must be carefully scraped off and the gasket surfaces cleaned. Stubborn gasket material can be soaked with rust penetrant or treated with a special chemical to soften it so it can be easily scraped off. Caution: Never use gasket removal solutions or caustic chemicals on plastic or other composite components. A scraper can be fashioned from a piece of copper tubing by flattening and sharpening one end. Copper is recommended because it is usually softer than the surfaces to be scraped, which reduces the chance of gouging the part. Some gaskets can be removed with a wire brush, but regardless of the method used, the mating surfaces must be left clean and smooth. If for some reason the gasket surface is gouged, then a gasket sealer thick enough to fill scratches will have to be used during reassembly of the components. For most applications, a non-drying (or semi-drying) gasket sealer should be used.

Hose removal tips Warning: /f the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, do not disconnect any of the A/C hoses without first having the system depressurized by a dealer service department or a service station. Hose removal precautions closely parallel gasket removal precautions. Avoid scratching or gouging the surface that the hose mates against or the connection may leak. This is especially true for radiator hoses. Because of various chemical reactions, the

rubber in hoses can bond itself to the metal spigot that the hose fits over. To remove

a hose, first loosen the hose clamps that secure it to the spigot. Then, with slip-joint pliers, grab the hose at the clamp and rotate it around the spigot. Work it back and forth until it is completely free, then pull it off. Silicone or other lubricants will ease removal if they can be applied between the hose and the outside of the spigot. Apply the same lubricant to

the inside of the hose and the outside of the spigot to simplify installation. As a last resort (and if the hose is to be replaced with a new one anyway), the rubber can be slit with a knife and the hose peeled from the spigot. If this must be done, be careful that the metal connection is not damaged. If ahose clamp is broken or damaged, do not reuse it. Wire-type clamps usually weaken with age, so it is a good idea to replace them with screw-type clamps whenever a hose is removed.

Tools A selection of good tools is a basic requirement for anyone who plans to maintain and repair his or her own vehicle. For the

owner who has few tools, the initial investment might seem high, but when compared to the spiraling costs of professional auto maintenance and repair, it is a wise one. To help the owner decide which tools are needed to perform the tasks detailed in this

manual, the following tool lists are offered: Maintenance and minor repair, Repair/overhaul and Special. The newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the maintenance and minor repair tool kit, which is adequate for the simpler jobs performed on a vehicle. Then, as confidence and experience grow, the owner

can tackle more difficult tasks, buying additional tools as they are needed. Eventually the basic kit will be expanded into the repair and overhaul! tool set. Over a period of time, the

experienced do-it-yourseifer will assemble a tool set complete enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the special category when it is felt that the expense is justified by the frequency of use.

0-14

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Dial caliper

Compression gauge with spark plug hole adapter

Damper/steering wheel puller

Hydraulic lifter removal tool

Valve spring compressor

Ridge reamer

Piston ring groove cleaning tool

Ring removal/installation tool

0-15

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Torque angle gauge

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit The tools in this list should be considered the minimum required for performance of routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair work. We recommend the purchase of combination wrenches (box-end and openend combined in one wrench). While more expensive than open end wrenches, they offer the advantages of both types of wrench.

Combination wrench set (1/4-inch to 1 inch or 6 mm to 19 mm) Adjustable wrench, 8 inch Spark plug wrench with rubber insert Spark plug gap adjusting tool Feeler gauge set Brake bleeder wrench Standard screwdriver (5/16-inch x 6 inch) Phillips screwdriver (No. 2 x 6 inch) Combination pliers - 6 inch Hacksaw and assortment of blades Tire pressure gauge Grease gun Oil can Fine emery cloth Wire brush Battery post and cable cleaning tool Oil filter wrench Funnel (medium size) Safety goggles Jackstands (2) Drain pan

Cylinder hone

Brake hold-down spring tool

Clutch plate alignment tool

Tap and die set

Note: /f basic tune-ups are going to be part of routine maintenance, it will be necessary

Standard screwdriver (stubby 5/16-inch) Phillips screwdriver (No. 3 x 8 inch) Phillips screwdriver (stubby - No. 2)

to purchase a good quality stroboscopic tim-

ing light and combination tachometer/dwell meter. Although they are included in the list of special tools, it is mentioned here because they are absolutely necessary for tuning most vehicles properly.

Repair and overhaul tool set These tools are essential for anyone who plans to perform major repairs and are in addition to those in the maintenance and minor repair tool kit. Included is a comprehensive set of sockets which, though expensive, are invaluable because of their versatility, especially when various extensions and drives are available. We recommend the 1/2inch drive over the 3/8-inch drive. Although the larger drive is bulky and more expensive, it has the capacity of accepting a very wide range of large sockets. Ideally, however, the

mechanic should have a 3/8-inch drive set and a 1/2-inch drive set. Socket set(s) Reversible ratchet Extension - 10 inch Universal joint Torque wrench (same size drive as sockets) Ball peen hammer - 8 ounce Soft-face hammer (plastic/rubber) Standard screwdriver (1/4-inch x 6 inch)

Pliers Pliers Pliers Pliers

-

vise grip lineman’s needle nose snap-ring (internal and external) Cold chisel - 1/2-inch Scribe Scraper (made from flattened copper tubing) Centerpunch Pin punches (1/16, 1/8, 3/16-inch) Steel rule/straightedge - 12 inch Allen wrench set (1/8 to 3/8-inch or 4mm to 10 mm) A selection of files Wire brush (large) Jackstands (second set) Jack (scissor or hydraulic type) Note: Another tool which is often useful is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of 3/8-inch and a set of good quality drill bits.

Special tools The tools in this list include those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturer’s instructions. Unless these tools will be used frequently, it is not very economical to purchase many of them. A consideration would be to split the cost and use between

0-16 PSS

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities ESR

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ST

yourself and a friend or friends. In addition,

most of these tools can be obtained from a tool rental shop on a temporary basis. This list primarily contains only those tools and instruments widely available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer for distribution to dealer service departments. Occasionally, references to the manufacturer’s special tools are included in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the special tool is offered. However, sometimes there is no alternative to their use. Where this is the case, and the tool cannot be purchased or borrowed, the work should be turned over to the dealer service department or an automotive repair shop.

Valve spring compressor Piston ring groove cleaning tool Piston ring compressor Piston ring installation tool Cylinder compression gauge Cylinder ridge reamer Cylinder surfacing hone Cylinder bore gauge Micrometers and/or dial calipers Hydraulic lifter removal tool Balljoint separator Universal-type puller Impact screwdriver Dial indicator set Stroboscopic timing light (inductive pick-up) Hand operated vacuum/pressure pum Tachometer/dwell meter Universal electrical multimeter Cable hoist Brake spring removal and installation tools Floor jack

Buying tools For the do-it-yourselfer who is just starting to get involved in vehicle maintenance and repair, there are a number of options available when purchasing tools. If maintenance and minor repair is the extent of the work to be done, the purchase of individual tools is satisfactory. If, on the other hand, extensive work is planned, it would be a good idea to purchase a modest tool set from one of the large retail chain stores. A set can usually be bought at a substantial savings over the individual tool prices, and they often come with a tool box. As additional tools are needed, add-on sets, individual tools and a larger tool box can be purchased to expand the tool selection. Building a tool set gradually allows the cost of the tools to be spread over a longer period of time and gives the mechanic the freedom to choose only those tools that will actually be used. Tool stores will often be the only source of some of the special tools that are needed,

SBS

SL

iS

EE

A

but regardless of where tools are bought, try to avoid cheap ones, especially when buying screwdrivers and sockets, because they won't last very long. The expense involved in replacing cheap tools will eventually be greater than the initial cost of quality tools.

Care and maintenance of tools Good tools are expensive, so it makes sense to treat them with respect. Keep them clean and in usable condition and store them properly when not in use. Always wipe off any dirt, grease or metal chips before putting them away. Never leave tools lying around in the work area. Upon completion of a job, always check closely under the hood for tools that may have been left there so they won't get lost during a test drive. Some tools, such as screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches and sockets, can be hung on a panel mounted on the garage or workshop wall, while others should be kept in a tool box or tray. Measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc. must be carefully stored where

they cannot be damaged by weather or impact from other tools.

When

tools are used

with care

and

stored properly, they will last a very long time. Even with the best of care, though, tools will wear out if used frequently. When a tool is damaged or worn out, replace it. Subsequent jobs will be safer and more enjoyable if you

do.

How to repair damaged threads Sometimes, the internal threads of a nut or bolt hole can become stripped, usually from overtightening. Stripping threads is an all-toocommon occurrence, especially when working with aluminum parts, because aluminum is so soft that it easily strips out. Usually, external or internal threads are only partially stripped. After they've been cleaned up with a tap or die, they'll still work. Sometimes, however, threads are badly damaged. When this happens, you’ve got three choices:

1) Drill and tap the hole to the next suitable oversize and install a larger diameter bolt, screw or stud. 2) Drill and tap the hole to accept a threaded plug, then drill and tap the plug to the original screw size. You can also buy a plug already threaded to the original size. Then you simply drill a hole to the specified size, then run the threaded plug into the hole with a bolt and jam nut. Once the plug is fully seated, remove the jam nut and bolt.

3) The third method uses a patented thread repair kit like Heli-Coil or Slimsert. These easy-to-use kits are designed to repair

damaged threads in straight-through holes and blind holes. Both are available as kits which can handle a variety of sizes and thread patterns. Drill the hole,

then tap it with the special included tap. Install the Heli-Coil and the hole is back to its original diameter and thread pitch. Regardless of which method you use, be sure to proceed calmly and carefully. A little impatience or carelessness during one of these relatively simple procedures can ruin your whole day’s work and cost you a bundle if you wreck an expensive part.

Working facilities Not to be overlooked when discussing tools is the workshop. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some sort of suitable work area is essential. It is understood, and appreciated, that many home mechanics do not have a good workshop or garage available, and end up removing an engine or doing major repairs outside. It is recommended, however, that the overhaul or repair be completed under the cover of a roof. A clean, flat workbench or table of comfortable working height is an absolute necessity. The workbench should be equipped with a vise that has a jaw opening of at least four inches. As mentioned previously, some clean, dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as the lubricants, fluids, cleaning solvents, etc. which soon become necessary. Sometimes waste oil and fluids, drained from the engine or cooling system during normal maintenance or repairs, present a disposal problem. To avoid pouring them on the ground or into a sewage system, pour the used fluids into large containers, seal them with caps and take them to an authorized disposal site or recycling center. Plastic jugs, such as old antifreeze containers, are ideal for this purpose. Always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean rags available. Old towels are excellent for mopping up spills. Many mechanics use rolls of paper towels for most work because they are readily available and disposable. To help keep the area under the vehicle clean, a large cardboard box can be cut open and flattened to protect the garage or shop floor. Whenever working over a painted surface, such as when leaning over a fender to service something under the hood, always cover it with an old blanket or bedspread to protect the finish. Vinyl covered pads, made especially for this purpose, are available at auto parts stores.

0-17

Booster battery (jump) starting Observe the following precautions when using a booster battery to Dead battery

start a vehicle:

a) Before connecting the booster battery, make sure the ignition switch is in the Off position. b) Turn off the lights, heater and other electrical loads. c) Your eyes should be shielded. Safety goggles are a good idea. d) Make sure the booster battery is the same voltage as the dead one in the vehicle.

Booster battery

O O O

e) The two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other. f) Make sure the transaxle is in Park. g) If the booster battery is not a maintenance-free type, remove the vent caps and lay a cloth over the vent holes. Connect the red jumper cable to the positive (+) terminals of each battery. Connect one end of the black cable to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery. The other end of this cable should be connected to a good ground on the engine block (see illustration). Make sure the cable will not come into contact with the fan, drivebelts or other moving parts of the engine. Start the engine using the booster battery, then, with the engine running at idle speed, disconnect the jumper cables in the reverse order of connection

60-3 HAYNES

Make the booster battery cable connections in the numerical order shown (note that the negative cable of the booster battery is NOT attached to the negative terminal of the dead battery)

Jacking and towing Jacking The jack supplied with the vehicle should only be used for raising the vehicle for chang-

ing a tire or placing jackstands under the frame. Warning: Never crawl under the vehicle or start the engine when the jack is being used as the only means of support. All vehicles are supplied with a scissors-

type jack. When jacking the vehicle, it should be engaged with the rocker panel flange, between the two cutouts (see illustration). The vehicle should be on level ground with the wheels blocked and the transmission in Park. Pry off the hub cap (if equipped) using the tapered end of the lug wrench. Loosen the lug nuts one-half turn and leave them in place until the wheel is raised off the ground. Place the jack under the side of the vehicle in the indicated position. Use the supplied wrench to turn the jackscrew clockwise until the wheel is raised off the ground. Remove the lug nuts, pull off the wheel and install the spare. With the beveled side in, install the lug nuts and tighten them until snug. Lower the vehicle by turning the jackscrew counterclockwise. Remove the jack and tighten the nuts in a diagonal pattern to the torque listed in the Chapter 1 Specifications. If a torque wrench is not available, have the torque checked by a service station as soon as possible. Install the hubcap by placing it in position and using the heel of your hand or a rubber mallet to seat it.

Towing As a general

rule, the vehicle should

be towed with the front (drive) wheels off the ground or, preferably, on a flat bed car carrier. If the front wheels can't be raised or a carrier isn't available, place them on a dolly. The ignition key must be in the ACC position, since the steering lock mechanism isn't strong enough to hold the front wheels straight while towing. In emergency situations the vehicle can be towed from the front with all four wheels on the ground, provided that speeds don't exceed 40 mph and the distance is not over

100 miles. Before towing, check the transaxle fluid level (see Chapter 1). If the level is below

the HOT mark on the dipstick, add fluid. Towing equipment specifically designed for this purpose should be used and should be attached to the main structural members of the vehicle, not the bumper or brackets. Safety is a major consideration when towing and all applicable state and local laws must be obeyed. A safety chain system must be used for all towing. While towing, the parking brake must be released and the transmission must be in Neutral. The steering must be unlocked (ignition switch in the Off position). Remember that power steering and power brakes will not work with the engine off.

The jack fits over the rocker panel flange (there are two

jacking points on each side of the vehicle)

0-18

Automotive chemicals and lubricants A number of automotive chemicals and lubricants are available for use during vehicle maintenance and repair. They include a wide variety of products ranging from cleaning solvents and degreasers to Jubricants and protective sprays for rubber, plastic and vinyl.

Cleaners Carburetor cleaner and choke cleaner is a strong solvent for gum, varnish and carbon. Most carburetor cleaners leave a dry-type lubricant film which will not harden or gum up. Because of this film it is not recommended for use on electrical components. Brake system cleaner is used to remove brake dust, grease and brake fluid from the brake system, where clean surfaces

are absolutely necessary. It leaves no residue and often eliminates brake squeal caused by contaminants. Electrical cleaner removes

oxidation,

temperatures encountered by wheel bearings in disc brake equipped vehicles. It usually contains molybdenum disulfide (moly), which is a dry-type lubricant. White grease is a heavy grease for metal-to-metal applications where water is a problem. White grease stays soft under both low and high temperatures (usually from -100 to +190-degrees F), and will not wash off or dilute in the presence of water. Assembly lube is a special extreme pressure lubricant, usually containing moly, used to lubricate high-load parts (such as main and rod bearings and cam lobes) for initial start-up of a new engine. The assembly lube lubricates the parts without being squeezed out or washed away until the engine oiling system begins to function. Silicone lubricants are used to protect rubber, plastic, vinyl and nylon parts. Graphite lubricants are used where oils

corrosion and carbon deposits from electrical

cannot be used due to contamination

contacts, restoring full current flow. It can also

lems, such as in locks. The dry graphite will lubricate metal parts while remaining uncontaminated by dirt, water, oil or acids. It is electrically conductive and will not foul electrical contacts in locks such as the ignition switch. Moly penetrants loosen and lubricate frozen, rusted and corroded fasteners and prevent future rusting or freezing. Heat-sink grease is a special electrically non-conductive grease that is used for mounting electronic ignition modules where it is essential that heat is transferred away from the module.

be used to clean spark plugs, carburetor jets, voltage regulators and other parts where an oil-free surface is desired. Demoisturants remove water and moisture from electrical components such as alter-

nators, voltage regulators, electrical connectors and fuse blocks. They are non-conductive and non-corrosive. Degreasers are heavy-duty solvents used to remove grease from the outside of the engine and from chassis components. They can be sprayed or brushed on and, depending on the type, are rinsed off either with water or solvent.

Lubricants Motor oil is the lubricant formulated for use in engines. It normally contains a wide variety of additives to prevent corrosion and reduce foaming and wear. Motor oil comes in various weights (viscosity ratings) from 0 to 50. The recommended weight of the oil depends on the season, temperature and the demands on the engine. Light oil is used in cold climates and under light load conditions. Heavy oil is used in hot climates and where high loads are encountered. Multi-viscosity oils are designed to have characteristics of both light and heavy oils and are available in a number of weights from OW-20 to 20W-50. Gear oil is designed to be used in differentials, manual transmissions and other areas where high-temperature lubrication is required. Chassis and wheel bearing grease is

a heavy grease used where increased loads and friction are encountered, such as for wheel bearings, balljoints, tie-rod ends and universal joints. High-temperature wheel bearing grease is designed to withstand the extreme

prob-

Sealants RTV sealant is one of the most widely used gasket compounds. Made from silicone, RTV is air curing, it seals, bonds, waterproofs, fills surface irregularities, remains flexible, doesn’t shrink, is relatively easy to remove, and is used as a supplementary sealer with almost all low and medium temperature gaskets. Anaerobic sealant is much like RTV in that it can be used either to seal gaskets or

to form gaskets by itself. It remains flexible, is solvent resistant and fills surface imperfections. The difference between an anaerobic sealant and an RTV-type sealant is in the curing. RTV cures when exposed to air, while an anaerobic sealant cures only in the absence of air. This means that an anaerobic sealant cures only after the assembly of parts, sealing them together. Thread and pipe sealant is used for sealing hydraulic and pneumatic fittings and

vacuum lines. It is usually made from a Teflon compound, and comes in a spray, a paint-on liquid and as a wrap-around tape.

Chemicals Anti-seize

compound

prevents seiz-

ing, galling, cold welding, rust and corrosion

in fasteners. High-temperature ant-seize, usually made with copper and graphite lubricants, is used for exhaust system and exhaust manifold bolts. Anaerobic locking compounds are used to keep fasteners from vibrating or working loose and cure only after installation, in the absence of air. Medium strength locking compound is used for small nuts, bolts and screws that may be removed later. Highstrength locking compound is for large nuts, bolts and studs which aren’t removed on a regular basis. Oil additives range from viscosity index improvers to chemical treatments that claim to reduce internal engine friction. It should be noted that most oil manufacturers caution against using additives with their oils. Gas additives perform several functions, depending on their chemical makeup. They usually contain solvents that help dissolve gum and varnish that build up on carburetor, fuel injection and intake parts. They also serve to break down carbon deposits that form on the inside surfaces of the combustion chambers. Some additives contain upper cylinder lubricants for valves and piston rings, and others contain chemicals to remove condensation from the gas tank.

Miscellaneous Brake fluid is specially formulated hydraulic fluid that can withstand the heat and pressure encountered in brake systems. Care must be taken so this fluid does not come in contact with painted surfaces or plastics. An opened container should always be resealed to prevent contamination by water or dirt. Weatherstrip adhesive is used to bond weatherstripping around doors, windows and trunk lids. It is sometimes used to attach trim pieces. Undercoating is a petroleum-based, tar-like substance that is designed to protect metal surfaces on the underside of the vehicle from corrosion. It also acts as a sound-deadening agent by insulating the bottom of the vehicle. Waxes and polishes are used to help protect painted and plated surfaces from the weather. Different types of paint may require the use of different types of wax and polish. Some polishes utilize a chemical or abrasive cleaner to help remove the top layer of oxidized (dull) paint on older vehicles. In recent years many non-wax polishes that contain a wide variety of chemicals such as polymers and silicones have been introduced. These non-wax polishes are usually easier to apply and last longer than conventional waxes and polishes.

0-19

Conversion

factors

Length (distance) Inches (in) Feet (ft)

X X

25.4 0.305

= Millimeters (mm)

X

0.0394

= Meters (m)

Xi

roo)

= Feet (ft)

Miles

xX

1.609

= Kilometers (km)

X

0.621

= Miles

Volume (capacity) Cubic inches (cu in; in*)

X 16.387 = Cubic centimeters (cc; cm’)

X

0.061

Imperial pints (Imp pt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) US quarts (US qt) Imperial gallons (Imp ga!) Imperial gallons (Imp gal)

xX 0.568 X 1.137 X 1.201 xX 0.946 X 4.546 xX 1.201

x

1.76

= Imperial pints (Imp pt)

US gallons (US gal)

X

3.785

= Liters (I)

= = = = = =

= Inches (in)

=Cubic inches (cu in; in’)

Liters (I)

x

0.88

US quarts (US qt)

Xx

0.833

Liters (I) Liters (I) US gallons (US gal) Liters (I)

X X X X

1.057 0.22 0.833 0.264

= Imperial quarts (Imp qt) =Imperial quarts (Imp qt) =US quarts (US gt) =Imperial gallons (Imp gal) =Imperial gallons (Imp gal) =US gallons (US gal)

0.035 2.205

= Ounces (oz) = Pounds (lb)

Mass (weight) X 28.35 xX 0.454

= Grams (g) = Kilograms (kg)

Ounces-force (ozf; oz)

xX 0.278

= Newtons

X x

3.6 0.225 9.81

= Ounces-force (ozf; 02)

X 4.448 XE!

(N) = Newtons (N) = Kilograms-force (kgf; kg)

x

Pounds-force (Ibf; Ib) Newtons (N)

xX

0.070

= Kilograms-force per square

xX

14.223

= Pounds-force per square inch

xX

0.068

= Atmospheres

X

14.696

= Pounds-force per square inch

xX

0.069

= Bars

Xx

14.5

= Pounds-force per square inch

Xx

6.895

= Kilopascals (kPa)

X

0.145

= Pounds-force per square inch

X

0.01

= Kilograms-force per square

x

98.1

X

1.152

= Kilograms-force centimeter

x

0.868

= Pounds-force inches

x

8.85

(Ibf in; Ib in) = Pounds-force inches

Ounces (oz)

Pounds (Ib)

Force = Pounds-force (Ibf; Ib) = Newtons (N)

Pressure Pounds-force

per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?) Pounds-force per square inch

centimeter (kgf/cm?; kg/cm?) (atm)

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)

(psi; Ibf/in?; |b/in?)

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?) Pounds-force per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?) Pounds-force

per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?) Kilopascals (kPa)

= Kilopascals (kPa)

centimeter (kgf/cm?; kg/cm?)

Torque (moment of force) Pounds-force

inches

Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; Ib in) Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; Ib in)

X

0.113

(kgf cm; kg cm) = Newton meters (Nm)

X

0.083

= Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft)

X

fi2

Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft)

X

0.138

X

7.233

Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft) Newton meters (Nm)

xX 1.356 xX 0.102

= Kilograms-force meters (kgf m; kg m) = Newton meters (Nm) = Kilograms-force meters

= Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; Ib in) = Pounds-force feet (\bf ft; Ib ft)

X X

0.738 9.804

= Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; Ib ft) =Newton meters (Nm)

= Inches mercury = Inches mercury

(Ibf in; Ib in)

(Ibf in; Ib in)

(kgf m; kg m)

Vacuum X X

3.377 25.4

= Kilopascals (kPa) = Millimeters mercury (mm Hg)

X X

0.2961 0.0394

X

745.7

= Watts (W)

xX

0.0013

=Horsepower (hp)

xX

1.609

= Kilometers per hour (km/hr; kph) X

0.621

=Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

Fuel consumption* Miles per gallon, Imperial (mpg)

X

0.354

= Kilometers per liter (km/I)

2.825

=Miles per gallon, Imperial (mpg)

Miles per gallon, US (mpg)

xX 0.425

Inches mercury (in. Hg) Inches mercury (in. Hg)

Power Horsepower (hp)

Velocity (speed) Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

Temperature Degrees Fahrenheit

=

(°C x 1.8) + 32

= Kilometers per liter (km/I)

X

X

2.352

=Miles per gallon, US (mpg)

Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; °C)

*/t is common practice to convert from miles per gallon (mpg) to liters/100 kilometers (I/100km),

where mpg (Imperial) x 1/100 km = 282 and mpg (US) x 1/100 km = 235

= (°F - 32) x 0.56

0-20 DECIMALS to MILLIMETERS |

Decimal

Decimal

0.0254 0.0508 0.0762 0.1016 0.1270 0.1524 0.1778 0.2032 0.2286 0.2540 0.5080 0.7620 1.0160 1.2700 1.5240 1.7780 2.0320 2.2860 2.5400 2.7940 3.0480 3.3020 3.5560 3.8100 4.0640 4.3180 4.5720 4.8260

5.0800 5.3340 5.5880 5.8420 6.0960 6.3500 6.6040 6.8580 7.1120 7.3660 7.6200 7.8740 8.1280 8.3820 8.6360 8.8900 9.1440 9.3980 9.6520 9.9060 10.1600 10.4140 10.6680 10.9220 11.1760 11.4300 11.6840 11.9380 12.1920 12.4460

12.7000 12.9540 13.2080 13.4620 13.7160 13.9700 14.2240 14.4780 14.7320 14.9860

15.2400 15.4940 15.7480 16.0020 16.2560 16.5100 16.7640 17.0180 17.2720 17.5260

17.7800 18.0340 18.2880 18.5420 18.7960 19.0500 19.3040 19.5580 19.8120 20.0660

20.3200 20.5740 21.8280 21.0820 21.3360 21.5900 21.8440 22.0980 22.3520 22.6060

22.8600 23.1140 23.3680 23.6220 23.8760 24.1300 24.3840 24.6380 24.8920 25.1460 25.4000

FRACTIONS to DECIMALS to MILLIMETERS Fraction

Decimal

mm

Fraction

Decimal

mm

1/64 1/32 3/64

0.0156 0.0312

0.0469

0.3969 0.7938 1.1906

33/64 17/32 35/64

0.5156 0.5312 0.5469

13.0969 13.4938 13.8906

1/16

0.0625

1.5875

9/16

0.5625

14.2875

5/64 3/32 7/64

0.0781 0.0938 0.1094

1.9844 2.3812 2.7781

37/64 19/32 39/64

0.5781 0.5938 0.6094

14.6844 15.0812 15.4781

1/8

0.1250

3.1750

5/8

0.6250

15.8750

9/64 5/32 11/64

0.1406 0.1562 0.1719

3.5719 3.9688 4.3656

41/64 21/32 43/64

0.6406 0.6562 0.6719

16.2719 16.6688 17.0656

3/16

0.1875

4.7625

11/16

0.6875

17.4625

13/64 7132 15/64

0.2031 0.2188 0.2344

5.1594 5.5562 5.9531

45/64 23/32 47/64

0.7031 0.7188 0.7344

17.8594 18.2562 18.6531

1/4

0.2500

6.3500

3/4

0.7500

19.0500

17/64 9/32 19/64

0.2656 0.2812 0.2969

6.7469 7.1438 7.5406

49/64 25/52 51/64

0.7656 0.7812 0.7969

19.4469 19.8438 20.2406

5/16

0.3125

LISTS

13/16

0.8125

20.6375

21/64 11/32 23/64

0.3281 0.3438 0.3594

8.3344 S342 9.1281

53/64 27/32 55/64

0.8281 0.8438 0.8594

21.0344 21.4312 21.8281

3/8

0.3750

9.5250

7/8

0.8750

22.2250

0.3906 0.4062 0.4219

9.9219 10.3188 10.7156

57/64 29/32 59/64

0.8906 0.9062 0.9219

22.6219 23.0188 23.4156

0.4375

Sh

15/16

0.9375

23.8125

0.4531 0.4688 0.4844

11.5094 11.9062 12.3031

0.9531 0.9688 0.9844

24.2094 24.6062 25.0031

0.5000

12.7000

1.0000

25.4000

25

0-21

Safety first! you

DO carry out work in a logical sequence and

may be about getting on with the job at hand, take the time to ensure that your safety is not jeopardized. A moment's lack of attention can result in an accident, as can failure to observe certain simple safety precautions. The possibility of an accident will always exist, and the following points should not be considered a comprehensive list of all dangers. Rather, they are intended to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safety conscious approach to all work you carry out on your vehicle.

Regardless

of how

enthusiastic

make sure that everything is correctly assembled and tightened. DO keep chemicals and fluids tightly capped and out of the reach of children and pets. DO remember that your vehicle’s safety affects that of yourself and others. If in doubt

Essential DOs and DON’Ts DON’T rely on a jack when working under the vehicle. Always use approved jackstands to support the weight of the vehicle and place them under the recommended lift or support points.

DON’T attempt to loosen extremely tight fasteners (i.e. wheel lug nuts) while the vehicle is on a jack - it may fall. DON’T start the engine without first making sure that the transmission is in Neutral (or Park where applicable) and the parking brake is set. DON’T remove the radiator cap from a hot cooling system - let it cool or cover it with a cloth and release the pressure gradually. DON’T attempt to drain the engine oil until you are sure it has cooled to the point that it will not burn you. DON’T touch any part of the engine or exhaust system until it has cooled sufficiently to avoid burns. DON’T siphon toxic liquids such as gasoline, antifreeze and brake fluid by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin. DON’T inhale brake tining dust - it is potentially hazardous (see Asbestos below). DON’T allow spilled oil or grease to remain on the floor - wipe it up before someone slips on it.

DON’T use loose fitting wrenches or other tools which may slip and cause injury. DON’T push on wrenches when loosening or tightening nuts or bolts. Always try to pull the wrench toward you. lf the situation calls for pushing the wrench away, push with an open hand to avoid scraped knuckles if the wrench should slip.

DON’T attempt to lift a heavy component alone - get someone to help you. DON’T rush or take unsafe shortcuts to finish a job.

DON’T allow children or animals in or around the vehicle while you are working on it. DO wear eye protection when using power tools such as a drill, sander, bench grinder, etc. and when working under a vehicle. DO keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving parts. DO make sure that any hoist used has a safe working load rating adequate for the job. DO get someone to check on you periodically when working alone on a vehicle.

on any point, get professional advice.

Steering, suspension and brakes These systems are essential to driving safety, so make sure you have a qualified shop or individual check your work. Also, compressed suspension springs can cause injury if released suddenly - be sure to use a spring compressor.

Airbags Airbags are explosive devices that can CAUSE injury if they deploy while you’re working on the vehicle. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to disable the airbag whenever you’re working in the vicinity of airbag components.

Asbestos Certain friction, insulating, sealing, and other products - such as brake linings, brake bands, clutch linings, torque converters, gaskets, etc. - may contain asbestos or other hazardous friction material. Extreme care must be taken to avoid inhalation of dust from such products, since it is hazardous to health. If in doubt, assume that they do contain asbestos.

Fire Remember at all times that gasoline is highly flammable. Never smoke or have any kind of open flame around when working on a vehicle. But the risk does not end there. A spark caused by an electrical short circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, or even by static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite gasoline vapors, which in a confined space are highly explosive. Do not, under any circumstances, use gasoline for cleaning parts. Use an approved safety solvent.

Always disconnect the battery ground (-) cable at the battery before working on any part of the fuel system or electrical system. Never risk spilling fuel on a hot engine or exhaust component. It is strongly recommended that a fire extinguisher suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires be kept handy in the garage or workshop at all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with water.

When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions on the container carefully. Never use materials from unmarked containers. Never run the engine in an enclosed space, such as a garage. Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide, which is extremely poisonous. If you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air, or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the work area.

The battery Never create a spark or allow a bare light bulb near a battery. They normally give off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive. Always disconnect the battery ground (-) cable at the battery before working on the fuel or electrical systems. If possible, loosen the filler caps or cover when charging the battery from an external source (this does not apply to sealed or maintenance-free batteries). Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery may burst. Take care when adding water to a non maintenance-free battery and when carrying a battery. The electrolyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be allowed to

contact clothing or skin. Always wear eye protection when cleaning the battery to prevent the caustic deposits from entering your eyes.

Household current When using an electric power tool, inspection light, etc., which operates on household current, always make sure that the tool is correctly connected to its plug and that, where necessary, it is properly grounded. Do not use such items in damp conditions and, again, do not create a spark or apply excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel vapor.

Secondary ignition system voltage A severe electric shock can result from touching certain parts of the ignition system (such as the spark plug wires) when the engine is running or being cranked, particularly if components are damp or the insulation is defective. In the case of an electronic ignition system, the secondary system voltage is much higher and could prove fatal.

Hydrofluoric acid

Fumes

This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber, found in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses, etc. are exposed to temperatures above 750-degrees F (400-degrees C). The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the

Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconsciousness and even death if inhaled to any extent. Gasoline vapor falls into this category, as do the vapors from some cleaning solvents. Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated area.

acid. Once formed, the acid remains dangerous for years. If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned. When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use.

0-22

Troubleshooting Contents Symptom

Section

Symptom

Section 31

Transaxle fluid brown or has a burned Smell...........:c:cccsesseseeeeees

Engine and performance Engine will not Enginetrotates Engine hardtO: Engine hardtto

rotate when attempting to start... eee eens DUt WiNInOt Stents rie-c. tec. ccsc-.-s0s nce dnccusPgaas es ..s-ceeree akcak Aakers eee Ree eae See Chapter 1 Fuel tank - removal and installation..............c::ccccccscssesceesecesseeseees 7 Generalhinionmation tac.crcciescseeeict eae enna anne we eee eee 1 Throttle body - removal and installation...............:ccccccccesecessesseeseens 11 AMOUBDIESHOOUNG)..2t. sc -.casseeette rere eae eek eee emer tee CE 2 Underhood hose check and replacement...................006 See Chapter 1

Specifications

Fuel system Fuel system pressure (all MOdEIS)............:cccccceeeceeeeeeteeeeeeeeeeeeneeeers mead

53 to 63 psi

Torque specifications

Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)

Note: One foot-pound (ft-lb) of torque is equivalent to 12 inch-pounds (in-lbs) of torque. Torque values below approximately 15 ft-lbs are expressed in inch-pounds, since most foot-pound torque wrenches are not accurate at these smaller values.

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106 in-lbs 45 in-lbs

20.5 65 in-lbs 80 in-lbs 50 in-Ibs

Chapter 4

Fuel and exhaust systems

2.9 An automotive stethoscope is used to listen to the fuel injectors in operation

2.2 Fuel pump relay fuse location on a 2012 3.6L model (be sure to check the underside of the fuse relay box for the exact location on your vehicle)

1

General information

Fuel system warnings Gasoline is extremely flammable and repairing fuel system components can be dangerous. Consider your automotive repair knowledge and experience before attempting repairs which may be better suited for a professional mechanic. ¢ Don’t smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area ® Don't work in a garage with a gas-type appliance (water heater, clothes dryer)

© Use fuel-resistant gloves. If any fuel spills on your skin, wash it off immediately with soap and water

underside of the vehicle. Various sections of the fuel line are either rigid metal or nylon, or flexible fuel hose. The various sections of the fuel hose are connected either by quick-connect fittings or threaded metal fittings.

Exhaust system The

exhaust

system

consists

of the

exhaust manifold(s), catalytic converter(s), muffler(s), tailpipe and all connecting pipes, flanges and clamps. The catalytic converters are an emission control device added to the exhaust system to reduce pollutants.

2

Troubleshooting

Fuel pump

© Clean up spills immediately

Refer to illustration 2.2

° Do not store fuel-soaked rags where they could ignite

1 The fuel pump is located inside the fuel tank. Sit inside the vehicle with the windows closed, turn the ignition key to ON (not START) and listen for the sound of the fuel pump as it’s briefly activated. You will only hear the sound for a second or two, but that sound tells you

® Prior to disconnecting any fuel line, you must relieve the fuel pressure (see Section 3) °

Wear safety glasses

® Have a proper fire extinguisher on hand

Fuel system The fuel system consists of the fuel tank, electric fuel pump/fuel level sending unit (located in the fuel tank), fuel rail and fuel injectors. The fuel injection system is a multi-port system; multi-port fuel injection uses timed impulses to inject the fuel directly into the intake port of each cylinder. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) controls the injectors. The PCM monitors various engine parameters and delivers the exact amount of fuel required into the intake ports.

Fuel is circulated from the fuel pump to the fuel rail through fuel lines running along the

that the pump is working. Alternatively, have an assistant listen at the fuel filler cap. 2 If the pump does not come on, check the fuel pump relay fuse (see illustration). Note: The fuel pump “relay” is actually just a circuit incorporated into the Totally Integrated Power Module, which is part of the underhood fuse/relay block; there is no replaceable fuel pump relay. If the fuse is okay, check the wiring back to the fuel pump. If the fuse and wiring are okay, the fuel pump module is probably

defective. If the pump runs continuously with the ignition key in the ON position, the Totally Integrated Power Module or Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is probably defective. Have the circuit checked by a professional mechanic.

Fuel injection system Refer to illustration 2.9 Note: The following procedure is based on the assumption that the fuel pump is working and the fuel pressure is adequate (see Section 4). 3. Check all electrical connectors that are related to the system. Check the ground wire connections for tightness. 4 Verify that the battery is fully charged (see Chapter 5). 5 Inspect the air filter element (see Chapter 1). 6 Check all fuses related to the fuel system (see Chapter 12). 7 Check the air induction system between the throttle body and the intake manifold for air leaks. Also inspect the condition of all vacuum hoses connected to the intake manifold and to the throttle body. 8 Remove the air intake duct from the throttle body and look for dirt, carbon, varnish, or other residue in the throttle body, particularly around the throttle plate. If it’s dirty, clean it with carb cleaner, a toothbrush and a clean shop towel. 9 With the engine running, place an automotive stethoscope against each injector, one at a time, and listen for a clicking sound that indicates operation (see illustration). Warning: Stay clear of the drivebelt and any rotating or hot components. Note: This check will not be possible on some models, as the upper intake manifoid (plenum) is in the way. 10 If you can hear the injectors operating, but the engine is misfiring, the electrical circuits are functioning correctly, but the injectors might be dirty or clogged. Try a commercial injector cleaning product (available at auto parts stores). If cleaning the injectors doesn't help, replace the injectors. 11 If an injector is not operating (it makes no sound), disconnect the injector electrical connector and measure the resistance

Chapter 4

3.2 To relieve the pressure in the fuel system, disable the electric fuel pump by unplugging the electrical connector in the fuel pump module harness; slide out the connector lock (A), then depress the tab (B) and pull the two halves apart

Re

eeclle

ce QE

Fuel and exhaust systems

ak

ae (cit c

4.2 This typical fuel pressure testing kit contains all the necessary fittings and adapters, along with the fuel pressure gauge, to test most automotive

across the injector terminals with an ohmmeter. Compare this measurement to the other injectors. If the resistance of the non-operational injector is quite different from the other injectors, replace it. 12 If the injector is not operating, but the resistance reading is within the range of resistance of the other injectors, the PCM or the circuit between the PCM and the injector

been completely relieved. Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery before working on the fuel system. 4 It's a good idea to cover any fuel connection to be disassembled with rags to absorb the residual fuel that may leak out. Properly dispose of the rags. :

might be faulty.

4

3

Fuel pressure relief procedure

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable. See Fuel system warnings in Section 1.

Refer to illustration 3.2 Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable. See Fuel system warnings in Section 1. 1 Remove the fuel filler cap to relieve any pressure built-up in the fuel tank. 2 Unplug the electrical connector in the fuel pump module harness, at the rear of the fuel tank (see illustration). 3 Start the engine; it should run momentarily then stall. Crank the engine several more times to ensure the fuel system has

Note: The following procedure assumes that the fuel pump is receiving voltage and runs.

Fuel pressure - check

Refer to illustrations 4.2, 4.4a and 4.4b

1 Relieve the fuel system pressure (see Section 3). 2 In addition to a fuel pressure gauge capable of reading fuel pressure up to 70 psi, you'll need a hose and an adapter suitable for tee-ing into the fuel system at the quick-connect fitting between the fuel delivery hose and the fuel rail (see illustration).

fuel systems

3. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting at the connection between the fuel delivery hose and the fuel rail (if you’re unfamiliar with quickconnect fittings, refer to Section 5). 4 Tee-in the fuel pressure gauge between

the fuel delivery hose and the fuel rail (see illustrations). 5 Start the engine and allow it to idle. Note the gauge reading as soon as the pressure stabilizes, and compare it with the pressure listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

6

If the fuel pressure is not within specifi-

cations, check the following:

a) If the pressure is lower than specified, check for a restriction in the fuel system (kinked fuel line, plugged fuel pump inlet strainer or clogged fuel filter). If no restrictions are found, replace the fuel pump module (see Section 8). b) If the fuel pressure is higher than specified, replace the fuel pump module (see Section 8).

ve 4.4a Connect the fuel pressure gauge hoses to the fuel delivery hose and the fuel rail (3.8L engine)

ae

4.4b The fuel pressure gauge is installed between the fuel feed line (A) and fuel rail (B) (3.6L engine)

4-4

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

_Two-tab type fitting; depress both tabs with your fingers,

|

|

_

then pull the fuel line and the fitting apart

Metal collar quick-connect fitting;

pull the end of the retainer off the fuel line and disengage the other end from the female side of the fitting...

On this type of fitting, depress the two buttons on opposite sides of the fitting, then pull it off the fuel line

_

... Insert a fuel line separator

tool into the female side of the fitting, push it into the fitting and pull the fuel line off the pipe :

Spring-lock coupling; remove the safety cover, install a coupling release too! and close the tool around the coupling...

_|

Threaded fuel line fitting; hold

Plastic collar-type fitting; rotate

the stationary portion of the line or component (A) while loosening the tube nut (B} with a flare-nut wrench

the outer part ofthe fitting

Some fittings are secured by lock

... then push the retainer out and pull the fuel line off the pipe

tabs. Release the lock tab (A) and rotate it to the fully-opened position, squeeze the two smaller lock tabs (B)...

... push the tool into the fitting, then pull the two lines apart

Hairpin clip type fitting: push

the legs of the retainer clip together, then push the clip down all the way until it stops

and pull the fuel line off the pipe

Chapter 4

use a hacksaw, or if you have compressed air, there are special pneumatic cutting chisels that can also be used. Wear safety goggles to protect your eyes from metal chips and wear work gloves to protect your hands. 4 Here are some simple guidelines to follow when repairing the exhaust system:

6.1 Here’s a typical exhaust system hanger. Inspect them regularly and replace at the first sign of damage or deterioration

7 Turn off the engine. Fuel pressure should not fali more than 8 psi over five minutes. If it does, the problem could be a leaky fuel injector, fuel line leak, or faulty fuel pump module. 8 Relieve the fuel system pressure, then disconnect the fuel pressure gauge. Reconnect the fuel line and wipe up any spilled gasoline.

5

Fuel lines and fittings - general information and disconnection

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable. See Fuel system warnings in Section 17. 1 Relieve the fuel pressure before servicing fuel lines or fittings (see Section 3), then disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal (see Chapter 5) before proceeding. 2 The fuel supply line connects the fuel pump in the fuel tank to the fuel rail on the engine. The Evaporative Emission (EVAP)

system lines connect tne fuel tank to the EVAP canister and connect the canister to the intake manifold. 3 Whenever you're working under the vehicle, be sure to inspect all fuel and evaporative emission lines for leaks, kinks, dents and other damage. Always replace a damaged fuel or EVAP line immediately. 4 If you find signs of dirt in the lines during disassembly, disconnect all lines and blow them out with compressed air. Inspect the fuel strainer on the fuel pump pick-up unit for damage and deterioration.

Steel tubing 5 It is critical that the fuel lines be replaced with lines of equivalent type and specification. 6 Some steel fuel lines have threaded fittings. When loosening these fittings, hold the stationary fitting with a wrench while turning the tube nut.

Plastic tubing 7 When replacing fuel system plastic tubing, use only original equipment replacement plastic tubing. Caution: When removing or installing plastic fuel line tubing, be careful not to bend or twist it too much, which can damage it. Also,

4-5

Fuel and exhaust systems

a) Work from the back to the front when removing exhaust system components. b) Apply penetrating oil to the exhaust system component fasteners to make them easier to remove. c) Use new gaskets, hangers and clamps.

d) Apply anti-seize compound to the threads of all exhaust system fasteners during reassembly. e) Be sure to allow sufficient clearance between newly installed parts and all points on the underbody to avoid over-

plastic fuel tubing is NOT heat resistant, so keep it away from excessive heat.

heating the floor pan and possibly damaging the interior carpet and insulation. Pay particularly close attention to the catalytic converter and heat shield.

Flexible hoses 8 When replacing fuel system flexible hoses, use only original equipment replacements. 9 Don’t route fuel hoses (or metal lines) within four inches of the exhaust system or within ten inches of the catalytic converter. Make sure that no rubber hoses are installed directly against the vehicle, particularly in places where there is any vibration. If allowed to touch some vibrating part of the vehicle, a hose can easily become chafed and it might start leaking. A good rule of thumb is to maintain a minimum of 1/4-inch clearance around a hose (or metal line) to prevent contact with the vehicle underbody.

6

Exhaust system servicing general information

Refer to illustration 6.1

Warning: Allow exhaust system components to cool before inspection or repair. Also, when working under the vehicle, make sure it is securely supported on jackstands. 1 The exhaust system consists of the exhaust manifolds, catalytic converter, muffler, tailpipe and all connecting pipes, flanges

7

+ Fuel tank - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 7.5, 7.7 and 7.8

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable. See Fuel system warnings in Section 1. Note: The following procedure is much easier to perform if the fuel tank is empty. If the fuel tank isn’t empty or nearly empty, you can siphon fuel from the tank with a siphon kit, available at most auto parts stores. NEVER start the siphoning action with your mouth! 1 Remove the fuel filler cap to relieve fuel tank pressure. 2 Relieve the fuel system pressure (see Section 3). 3 Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery (see Chapter 5). 4 Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. 5 Loosen the hose clamp and disconnect the fuel filler hose from the fuel tank (see illustration).

and clamps. The exhaust system is isolated from the vehicle body and from chassis components by a series of rubber hangers (see illustration). Periodically inspect these hangers for cracks or other signs of deterioration, replacing them as necessary. 2 Conduct regular inspections of the exhaust system to keep it safe and quiet. Look for any damaged or bent parts, open seams, holes, loose connections, excessive corrosion or other defects which could allow exhaust fumes to enter the vehicle. Do not repair deteriorated exhaust system components; replace them with new parts. 3 If the exhaust system components are extremely

corroded,

or rusted

together,

a

cutting torch is the most convenient tool for removal. Consult a properly-equipped repair shop. If a cutting torch is not available, you can

7.5 Loosen the clamp and detach the filler hose from the fuel tank

4-6

Chapter 4

Fuel and exhaust systems

wassrereenee ieee”

7.7 Disconnect the fuel delivery line (A) and EVAP line (B). (C) are the front fuel tank strap bolts

6 Unplug the electrical connector in the fuel pump module harness (see illustration 3.2). 7 Disconnect the fuel line and EVAP line quick-connect fittings, both of which are located at the front of the fuel tank (see illustration). If you’re unfamiliar with fuel line quick-connect fittings, refer to Section 5. 8 Disconnect the fuel fill vapor hose and the electrical connector from the EVAP system integrity monitor switch (see illustration). 9 Support the fuel tank with a transmission jack or with a floor jack. If you’re using a floor jack, put a piece of plywood between the jack head and the tank to protect the tank. 10 Remove the fuel tank strap bolts (see illustration 7.7). 11 Carefully lower the fuel tank from the vehicle, making sure no hoses or wiring harness are still attached. 12 Installation is the reverse of removal.

7.8 EVAP system integrity monitor switch electrical connector (A) | and fuel fill vapor hose (B) |

Tighten the fuel tank strap bolts securely. 13 Start the engine and check for leaks at any fuel line connectors that were disconnected.

8

Fuel pump/fuel pressure regulator/fuel level sending unit assembly - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 8.6, 8.7 and 8.8

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable. See Fuel system warnings in Section 1. 1 Relieve the fuel system pressure (see Section 3). 2 Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal (see Chapter 5). 3 Remove the fuel tank (see Section 7). 4 Disconnect the fuel delivery line quick-

8.6 Before removing the fuel pump module, make alignment marks (if none exist) on the mounting flange for the fuel pump/ pressure regulator/sending unit assembly and on the fuel tank. These marks will help you reinstall the assembly so it’s correctly oriented

connect fitting from the fuel pump/fuel pressure regulator/fuel level sending unit assembly (see Section 5). 5 Disconnect the electrical connector from the fuel pump/fuel pressure regulator/fuel level sending unit assembly. 6 Before removing the fuel pump/fuel pressure regulator/fuel level sending unit assembly, make alignment marks on the assembly and the fuel tank (see illustration), if marks don’t already exist, to ensure the assembly will be correctly realigned when it’s installed again. 7 Using a brass punch and hammer, loosen the locknut that secures the fuel pump/ fuel pressure regulator/fuel level sending unit assembly (see illustration). 8 Carefully lift the fuel pump/fuel pressure regulator/fuel level sending unit assembly from the fuel tank (see illustration). Angle the module so that you don’t bend the float arm of

8.7 Using a brass punch and hammer, loosen the locknut that secures the fuel pump/fuel pressure regulator/fuel level sending unit assembly

Chapter 4

Fuel and exhaust systems

10.5 Remove the power steering fluid reservoir nut, and set the reservoir aside. Detach all wiring harness retainers, then pull up on the air filter housing to detach the grommets from the ballstuds

8.8 Carefully remove the fuel pump/fuel pressure regulator/fuel level sending unit from the fuel tank. Angle the assembly so that you don’t bend the fuel level sending unit float arm or damage the fuel pump inlet strainer

the fuel level sending unit or damage the fuel pump inlet strainer. 9 While the pump is removed, inspect the pump inlet strainer. Make sure that it’s not clogged or damaged. If the inlet strainer is dirty, try washing it in clean solvent. If it’s still clogged, replace it. 10 _ Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to line up the marks, and tighten the fuel pump module locknut securely.

9

Fuel level sending unit replacement

4 Remove the fuel pump/fue! pressure regulator/fuel level sending unit assembly (see Section 8). 2 Mark the position of the sending unit to the module, also note the positions of the two wires on the sending unit - they must be returned to their same terminals. 3 Using a special terminal removal tool or a suitable substitute, disengage each terminal from the sending unit. 4 Disengage the retaining lugs, then slide the sending unit off the fuel pump module housing. 5 Installation is the reverse of removal.

10

Air filter housing - removal and installation

Air intake duct 1 Loosen the hose clamps air intake duct to the air filter and to the throttle body, then intake duct. 2 Installation is the reverse

that secure the housing cover remove the air of removal.

Air filter housing Refer to illustration 10.5

3 Loosen the hose clamp and detach the air intake duct from the housing. 4 Detach the cover from the air filter hous-

ing. 5 Remove the nut securing the power steering fluid reservoir to the filter housing (see illustration), then move the reservoir aside. 6 To detach the air filter housing assembly, simply pull it straight up and disengage the two grommets on the underside of the housing from their corresponding locator pins on the vehicle (see illustration 10.5). 7 ‘Inspect the rubber mounting grommets on the underside of the air filter housing. If the grommets are cracked, dried out, torn or otherwise damaged, replace them. 8 _ Installation is the reverse of removal.

11

Throttle body - removal and installation

Refer to illustration 11.5

8 Installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten the throttle body bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

12

Fuel rail and injectors - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 12.5, 12.6a, 12.6b, 12.8,

12.9, 12.10a and 12.10b

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable. See Fuel system warnings in Section 2. Warning: Wait until the engine is completely cool before beginning this procedure. 1 Relieve the fuel system pressure (see Section 3). 2 Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery (see Chapter 5). 3 Remove the upper intake manifold (see Chapter 2A or 2B). 4 Disconnect the fuel delivery line quick-

connect fitting and disconnect the fuel delivery line from the fuel rail (if you’re unfamiliar with quick-connect fittings, see Section 5). 5 Disconnect the fuel injector electrical connectors (see illustration). Detach the

Warning: Wait until the engine is completely cool before beginning this procedure. 1 Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal (see Chapter 5). Remove the engine covers 2 Detach the air intake duct or resonator, as applicable, from the throttle body. 3 «If the throttle body has coolant lines attached to it, clamp off and disconnect the lines. 4 Disconnect the throttle body electrical connector.

5 Remove the throttle body mounting fasteners and detach the throttle body from the upper intake manifold (see illustration). 6 Remove the throttle body gasket and inspect it for cracks, tears and deterioration. If it isn’t in perfect condition, replace it. 7 Make sure that the gasket mating surfaces of the throttle body and the intake manifold are clean.

11.5 Throttle body mounting bolts (upper intake manifold removed for clarity) - 3.6L engine shown, others similar

4-8

Chapter 4

Fuel and exhaust systems

12.6a Fuel injector harness clips (1) and fuel rail mounting bolts (2) - 3.3L/3.8L engines

12.5 Slide the connector lock up and disconnect the electrical connector from

the fuel injector

injector wiring harness mounting clips from the fuel rail (if equipped) and set the harness aside. 6 Remove the fuei rail mounting bolts (see illustrations). 7 Carefully pull up on the fuel rail to disengage the injectors from their respective bores in the intake manifold, then remove the fuel rail and injectors as a single assembly. The injectors might initially stick in their bores, but they'll pull free when sufficient force is

12.6b Fuel rail mounting bolts - 3.6L engine shown, 4.0L engine similar

applied.

8 3.3L/3.8L engines - Rotate each injector to disengage the retainer clip from the flange on the injector mounting pipe and pull it out of the fuel rail (see illustration) (the retainer clip stays on the injector). 3.6L/4.0L engines - Pull the injectors straight out of the fuel rail (there are no retaining clips).

9 Remove the O-rings from each injector (see illustration) and discard them. Install new O-rings and coat them with some clean

engine oil to facilitate installation of the injectors.

10 3.3L/3.8L engines - Before installing each injector into the fuel rail, install the injector retainer clip by sliding the open end into

its slot in the injector (see illustration). When

12.8 3.3L/3.8L engines - Rotate each injector to disengage the retainer (A) from the flange (B), then pull the injector out of the fuel rail

installing each injector, make sure that the flat side of the retainer clip is aligned with the flat side of the flange on the injector mounting pipe, and that the slots in the other two sides of the retainer clip are aligned with the curved parts of the flange (see illustration).

12.9 Remove the O-rings from each injector. Discard them and install new O-rings

Chapter 4

Fuel and exhaust systems

All models - Make sure that the injector is square to the bore of the mounting pipe and push it down into the mounting pipe until it’s fully seated. _11__ Installation is otherwise the reverse of removal. Tighten the fuel rail retaining bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 12 Start the engine and check for leaks at the quick-connect fitting that connects the fuel supply hose to the fuel rail. Also look for leaks at the upper end of each injector, where it’s installed into the fuel rail.

12.10a Before installing each injector into the fuel rail, install the injector clip by sliding the open end into the top slot of the injector (3.3L/3.8L engines)

12.10b Make sure that the flat side (A) of the retainer clip is aligned with the flat side (B) of the flange on the injector mounting pipe and that the slots (C) in each side of the retainer clip are aligned with the curved parts (D) of the flange. With the injector square to the bore of the mounting pipe, push it into the pipe until it seats (3.3L/3.8L engines)

Chapter 4

Fuel and exhaust systems

Notes

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems Contents Section 7 3

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4

Ignition coil pack or coils - replaceMenNt.............cccccccccecessssseeeeentnees

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Battery check, maintenance and charging ..............c00008 See Chapter 1

Spark plug wire check and replacement..............c000c000 See Chapter 1

Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor - replacement............. See Chapter 6

Starter motor - removal and installation. ............ccccsccesccsseereereeseees

8

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2

Specifications

Charging system POTTALCINIGAV OMAGS fevie aera, earnest ae evi ceaficcerns scteeovgnctesseneetissenstoebsosss

Torque specifications Alternator bracket nut/bolt (3.3L and 3.8L engines).............::ccceeeeeeeeeees Alternator mounting boits Bis PO ANG A OLNEMCHNOS nip. aeimacteesecnsdl s-teevsasseckessiacascesceessesecass sive 3.6L engines............ P R eRe MAORI RL cine ie arshersatzapsiepeivavanesacerse Starter mounting bolts SiS ANIC SOONG INGIMOS sete: peer ineseec cee ADM eh or ce thy ars cfr swanees cavensessnsespwas SOW angi A Ol eMOline Sstmecteeseeen cr te stece ras erestoscv-cesiatesxiacvsdqctessayscseen osc

13.5 to 14.5 volts

ee erence

rene

5-2 ae

1

Chapter 5 AL

SO

ES

General information and

precautions

General information Ignition system The electronic ignition system consists of the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor, the Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor, the Knock Sensor (KS), the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), the ignition switch, the battery, the individual ignition coils or a coil pack, and the spark plugs. For more information on the CKP, CMP and KS sensors, as well as the PCM, refer to Chapter 6.

Charging system The charging system includes the alternator (with an integral voltage regulator), the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), the Body Control Module (BCM), a charge indicator light on the dash, the battery, a fuse or fusible link and the wiring connecting all of these components. The charging system supplies electrical power for the ignition system, the lights, the radio, etc. The alternator is driven by the drivebelt.

Starting system The starting system consists of the battery, the ignition switch, the starter relay, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), the Body Control Module (BCM), the Transmission Range (TR) switch, the starter motor and solenoid assembly, and the wiring connecting all of the components.

Precautions Always observe the following precautions when working on the electrical system: a) Be extremely careful when servicing engine electrical components. They are easily damaged if checked, connected or

handled improperly. b) Never leave the ignition switched on for long periods of time when the engine is not running. c) Never disconnect the battery cables while the engine is running. d) Maintain correct polarity when connecting battery cables from another vehicle during jump starting - see the “Booster battery (jump) starting” Section at the front of this manual.

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2

Troubleshooting

Ignition system 1 If a malfunction occurs in the ignition system, do not immediately assume that any particular part is causing the problem. First, check the following items: a) Make sure that the cable clamps at the baitery terminals are clean and tight. b) Test the condition of the battery (see Steps 21 through 24). If it doesn’t pass all the tests, replace it. c) Check the ignition coil or coil pack connections. d) Check any relevant fuses in the engine compartment fuse.and relay box (see Chapter 12). If they're burned, determine the cause and repair the circuit.

Check Refer to illustration 2.3

Warning: Because of the high voltage generated by the ignition system, use extreme care when performing a procedure involving ignition components. Warning: /f you’re working on a model! with a 3.6L or 4.0L engine, relieve the fuel system pressure by disconnecting the fuel pump module electrical connector (see Chapter 4, Section 3). Note: The ignition system components on these vehicles are difficult to diagnose. In the event of ignition system failure that you can’t diagnose, have the vehicle tested at a dealer service department or other qualified auto repair facility. Note: You'll need a spark tester for the following test. Spark testers are available at most auto supply stores.

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tester between the boot at the lower end of | the coil and the spark plug (see illustration). On models with spark plug wires, disconnect a spark plug wire from a spark plug and install the tester between the spark plug wire boot and the spark plug. 4 Crank the engine and note whether or not the tester flashes. Caution: Do NOT crank the engine or allow it to run for more than five seconds; running the engine for more than five seconds may set a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) for a cylinder misfire.

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Models with a coil-over-plug type ignition system | 5 If the tester flashes during cranking, the

coil is delivering sufficient voltage to the spark | plug to fire it. Repeat this test for each cylin-— der to verify that the other coils are OK. |

6

If the tester doesn’t flash, remove a coil

from another cylinder and swap it for the one being tested. If the tester now flashes, you |

know that the original coil is bad. If the tester still doesn’t flash, the PCM or wiring harness is probably defective. Have the PCM checked out by a dealer service department or other qualified repair shop (testing the PCM is beyond the scope of the do-it-yourselfer because it requires expensive special tools). 7 ‘If the tester flashes during cranking but a misfire code (related to the cylinder being tested) has been stored, the spark plug could

be fouled or defective. Models with spark plug wires 8 If the tester flashes during cranking, sufficient voltage is reaching the spark plug to fire it. 9 Repeat this test on the remaining cylinders. 10 Proceed on this basis until you have verified that there’s a good spark from each spark plug wire. If there is, then you have verified that the coils in the coil pack are functioning correctly and that the spark plug wires are OK. 11 If there is no spark from a spark plug wire, then either the coil is bad, the plug wire is bad or a connection at one end of the plug wire is loose. Assuming that you’re using new plug wires or known good wires, then the coil is probably defective. Also inspect the coil pack electrical connector. Make sure that it’s clean, tight and in good condition.

12 If all the coils are firing correctly, but the engine misfires, then one or more of the plugs might be fouled. Remove and check the spark plugs or install new ones (see Chapter 1). 13 No further testing of the ignition system is possible without special tools. If the problem persists, have the ignition system tested by a dealer service department or other qualified repair shop.

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

2.21 To test the open circuit voltage of the battery, connect the black probe of the voitmeter to the negative terminal and the red probe to the positive terminal of the battery; a fully charged battery should be at least 12.6 volts

Charging system 14 If a malfunction occurs in the charging system, do not automatically assume the alternator is causing the problem. First check the following items: a) Check the drivebelt tension and condition, as described in Chapter 1. Replace it if it’s worn or deteriorated. b) Make sure the alternator mounting bolts are tight. c) Inspect the alternator wiring harness and the connectors at the alternator and voltage regulator. They must be in good condition, tight and have no corrosion. d) Check the fusible link (if equipped) or main fuse in the underhood fuse/relay box. If it is burned, determine the cause, repair the circuit and replace the link or fuse (the vehicle will not start and/or the accessories will not work if the fusible link or main fuse is blown). e) Start the engine and check the alternator for abnormal noises (a shrieking or squealing sound indicates a bad bearing). f) Check the battery. Make sure it’s fully charged and in good condition (one bad cell in a battery can cause overcharging by the alternator). g) Disconnect the battery cables (negative first, then positive). Inspect the battery posts and the cable clamps for corrosion. Clean them thoroughly if necessary (see Chapter 1). Reconnect the cables (positive first, negative last).

Alternator - check 15 Use a voltmeter to check the battery voltage with the engine off. It should be at least 12.6 volts (see illustration 2.21). 16 Start the engine and check the battery voltage again. It should now be approximately 13.5 to 15 volts.

2.23 Connect a battery load tester to the battery and check the battery condition under load following the tool manufacturer’s instructions

17 If the voltage reading is more or less than the specified charging voltage, the volt- © age regulator is probably defective, which will require replacement of the alternator (the voltage regulator is not replaceable separately). Remove the alternator and have it bench tested (most auto parts stores will do this for you). 18 The charging system (battery) light on the instrument cluster lights up when the ignition key is turned to ON, but it should go out when the engine starts. 19 Ifthe charging system light stays on after the engine has been started, there is a problem with the charging system. Before replacing the alternator, check the battery condition, alternator belt tension and electrical cable connections. 20 If replacing the alternator doesn’t restore voltage to the specified range, have the charging system tested by a dealer service department or other qualified repair shop.

Battery - check Refer to illustrations 2.21 and 2.23

21 Check the battery state of charge. Visually inspect the indicator eye on the top of the battery (if equipped with one); if the indicator eye is black in color, charge the battery as described in Chapter 1. Next perform an open circuit voltage test using a digital voltmeter.

Note: The battery’s surface charge must be removed before accurate voltage measurements can be made. Turn on the high beams for ten seconds, then turn them off and let the vehicle stand for two minutes. With the engine and all accessories Off, touch the negative probe of the voltmeter to the negative terminal of the battery and the positive probe to the positive terminal of the battery (see illustration). The battery voltage should be 12.6 volts or slightly above. If the battery

is less than the specified voltage, charge the battery before proceeding to the next test. Do not proceed with the battery load test unless the battery charge is correct. 22 Disconnect the negative battery cable, then the positive cable from the battery. 23 Perform a battery load test. An accurate check of the battery condition can only be performed with a load tester (see illustration). This test evaluates the ability of the battery to operate the starter and other accessories during periods of high current draw. Connect the load tester to the battery terminals. Load test the battery according to the tool manufacturer’s instructions. This tool increases the load demand (current draw) on the battery. 24 Maintain the load on the battery for 15 seconds and observe that the battery voltage does not drop below 9.6 volts. If the battery condition is weak or defective, the tool will indicate this condition immediately. Note: Co/d temperatures will cause the minimum voltage reading to drop slightly. Follow the chart given in the manufacturer’s instructions to compensate for cold climates. Minimum load voltage for freezing temperatures (32 degrees F) should be approximately 9.1 volts.

Starting system The starter rotates, but the engine doesn’t 25 Remove the starter (see Section 8). Check the overrunning clutch and bench test the starter to make sure the drive mechanism extends fully for proper engagement with the flywheel ring gear. If it doesn’t, replace the starter. 26 Check the flywheel ring gear for missing teeth and other damage. With the ignition turned off, rotate the flywheel so you can check the entire ring gear.

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Power door lock system (1 of 2) a

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Chapter 12

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EXTERIOR

LIGHTS SYSTEM

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=

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truer iM RIGHT REAR POWER

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| | | | | |

| | |

|RH DR IN/OUT HANDLE Swsns__ RH DR SECTOR SW SNS

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|

12-32

Chapter 12

CF |

NN

I

|

|

B (+)

LEFT

| | FoGLey

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| |INDFD1 |

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IND FD 2

BUS (-)

LOW

CAN

BUS (+)

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NS

es

|

Chassis electrical system

BEAM FD

HDLP

RTNSIG-

____ GIRCUT BOARD

LEFT

RIGHT

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|

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GND

GND

PASSENGER 1 OVERHEAD HALO LAMP

PASSENGER 2 OVERHEAD HALO LAMP.

(RT)

(IF EQUIPPED)

Courtesy lights system - 2011 and earlier models (1 of 2) —_—_—_—_———————— SPSS

Chapter 12 ——— — —-HOTATALL TIMES | GIRCUITBOARD $f— = Ps B+)! A | 1 | a

i | il |

RUN RLY CTRL

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Courtesy lights system - 2011 and earlier models (2 of 2)

12-42

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

HOT AT ALL TIMES

f

7 TOTALLY

|

| INTEGRATED

| CIRCUIT BOARD re

|| |! |

|

|

I

| POWER | MODULE FUSE

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NMA Chapter 12

a

Chassis electrical system a VSG a

HOT W/ RUN/START

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RELAY ENERGIZED “| TOTALLY | INTEGRATED | POWER | MODULE

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POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE

Warning lights and gauges system - 2010 and earlier models

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TRUNK, TAILGATE,

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COMPUTER DATA > Lines :

BESO DK BLU/GRY :

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CRNESSEIES Ee:

INTERIOR LIGHTS SYSTEM

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Warning lights and gauges system - 2011 and later models

DOOR LOCKS SYSTEM

\

Lacie Rae ae peat eS Se A eS ae

GRN PNK/LT

SNDR LVLSIG LK SW r FUEL | PRIMARY | DR | RTN iE

|

TE

RED/ORG

1 FUEL PUMP. MODULE

SIG SW PARK BRK

PARKING

12-46

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system HOT AT __ ALL TIMES

HOT AT ALL TIMES

| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | || | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |

HOT AT

HOT AT ALL TIMES

_ALL TIMES.

WIPER HIGH/LOW RELAY

WPR ON/OFF RLY CTRL WPR HI/LO RLY CTRL FERVOR 60

pr rr

rrr

eons

BLK/ LT GRN

BRN/LT GRN

RR WPR PRK SIG MTR}

BRN/LT GRN

| | | | | | | | |

aa

CAN BUS (-) IHS 125K tale Sa

|

AS SESNaa

WHT/GRY

CAN BUS (+) IHS 125K as

Beetn COMPUTER

| | | | | | | | | | - BRN/GRY OO

|

FT WPR MTR PRK sigL —_—3}

BRNIYEL

DATA LINES

ee

FT WSH MTR CTRL

|

RR WSH CTRL

| |

)

WINDSHIELD WASHER PUMP

SRN/IWHT BRN/ORG

BRN/GRY

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BRN/TAN

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ABMT TEMP/FCM SSR RTN ses a

| | |

|

|

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WHT/ORG

CAN BUS(-) IHS 125K Sle

WHT/GRY CAN BUS(+) IHS 125K ==

ee | ee _—_.

|

|

ee

WHT/DK GRN

aes

ane COMPUTER

———_—_—__—_—

> DATA LINES

CLUSTER

Windshield wiper/washer system - 2010 and earlier models

VIOVBRN

WASHER FLUID LEVEL SENSOR

i

Chapter 12

HOT W/ RUN

HOT AT

ee |

ee oe LIMES

wy

ACCESSORY

age

12-47

Chassis electrical system

SELES

HOT AT

HOT AT

RELAY ENERGISED ALL TIMES OL TSE ae =i

SAS

ALL TIMES ae

=

Sa

a

TOTALLY.

| INTEGRATED POWER

|

| |

|

MODULE

| .

| |

|

WIPER

|

HIGH/LOW

!|

RELAY

|

ecies [he |

WPR ON/OFF RLY CTRL RR WPR RLY CTRL

| |

WPR HI/LO RLY CTRL IPM PWR GND A

FUSE M24 25A

|

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1 | | | | | |

| | | | | |

|

|

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| |

|

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s

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|

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DK BLU/

|

11

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| |

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WHT/GRY

|

| | |

DK BLU/PNK

IGN FD

RAIN SENSOR (IF EQUIPPED)

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BRN/LT GRN

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l

CAN BUS (-)

F

WHT/ORGwy |.area

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| | | i |

LS

| | | | |

| eal ial i |

| | | |

:

| |

REAR WIPER MOTOR BRN/YEL BRN

BRN/WHT

SNISINE BRN/GRY

BRN/GRY

|

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BLK/ORG

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WHT/DK GRN

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FRONT WIPER MOTOR

STEERING CONTROL MODULE _

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FT WPR MTR LO SPD FD

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FT WSH MTR CTRL

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DATA LINES

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Windshield wiper/washer system - 2011 and later modeis

12-48

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system HOT AT TIMES—

ALL ‘alias

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10D FD CAN BUS (-)

YEL/RED WHT/ORG re

)

LH SPKR FD+ LH SPKR RTNRH SPKR FD+ RH SPKR RTNGROUND CAN BUS (+) ) LEFT AUDIO OUTPUT RIGHT AUDIO OUTPUT

COMMON AUDIO OUT RF SPKR 1 (+) RF SPKR 1 (-) LF SPKR 1 (+) LF SPKR 1 (-) AM/FM COAX AM/FM COAX SHLD SDARS COAX SAT SIG SDARS COAX SAT SHLD

COMPUTER DATA LINES

DK GRN/TAN DK GRN/GRY DK GRN/BRN YEL/GRY

BLK WHT/GRY DK GRN/ORG

di p- COMPUTER DATA LINES

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HANDS FREE MODULE CIRCUIT

)

HANDS FREE MODULE CIRCUIT

GRN/YEL ye DKPR DK GRN DK GRN/VIO DK GRN/YEL GRY/VIO GRY/YEL WHT/ORG WHT/YEL

WHT/LT GRN WHT/TAN

RADIO

GRY/YEL GRY/VIO GRN/YEL DK GRN/VIO DK

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LEFT FRONT DOOR SPEAKER

Audio system

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LEFT RIGHT INSTRUMENT — INSTRUMENT PANEL SPEAKER PANEL SPEAKER 2011-2012 ONLY

RIGHT FRONT DOOR SPEAKER

peat RIGHT REAR SPEAKER

LEFT REAR SPEAKER

IND-1

[pe (2) Coy

ate

ica

MRI Oe

A About this manual, 0-5

Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) sensor, replacement, 6-9

Acknowledgements, 0-2 Air conditioning and heating system, check and maintenance, 3-5 compressor, removal and installation, 3-12 condenser, removal and installation, 3-13 expansion valve, removal and installation, 3-14

receiver-drier, removal and installation, 3-13 Air conditioning and heating housing, rear, removal and installation, 3-14

Air filter element, check and replacement, 1-18 housing, removal and installation, 4-7 Air intake duct, removal and installation, 4-7

Airbag system, general information and precautions, 12-16 Alternator, removai and installation, 5-6 Antenna and cable, removal and installation, 12-9

Anti-lock Brake System (ABS), general information, 9-7 Automatic transaxle, 7-1

Brake Transmission Shift Interlock (BTSI) system, description, check and replacement, 7-4 diagnosis, general, 7-2 driveaxle oil seais, replacement, 7-2 fluid and filter change, 1-26 level check, 1-10 type, 1-1 oil cooler line, removal and installation, 7-5

overhaul, general information, 7-6 removal and installation, 7-5 shift cable, removal, installation and adjustment, 7-3 Automotive chemicals and lubricants, 0-18 Axle assembly, rear, removal and installation, 10-10

Balljoints, replacement, 10-8 Battery cables, replacement, 5-5 check, maintenance and charging, 1-15 disconnection, 5-4 removal and installation, 5-4

Blower motor resistor/power module and biower motor assembly, replacement, 3-10 Body repair major damage, 11-3 minor damage, 11-2 Booster battery (jump) starting, 0-17 Brakes Anti-lock Brake System (ABS), general information, 9-7 caliper, removal and installation, 9-11 disc, inspection, removal and installation, 9-11 fluid change, 1-23 level check, 1-9 type, 1-1 general information, 9-2 hoses and lines, inspection and replacement, 9-13

light switch, check, replacement and adjustment, 9-15 master cylinder, removal and installation, 9-13 pads, replacement, 9-7 power brake booster, check, removal and installation, 9-15 system check, 1-19 system, bleeding, 9-14 troubleshooting, 9-3 Brake Transmission Shift Interlock (BTSi) system, description, check and replacement, 7-4 Bulb replacement, 12-11 Bumper covers, removal and installation, 11-8

Buying parts, 0-10

IND-2

index

C Cabin air filter replacement, 1-21 Cable replacement antenna, 12-9 battery, 5-5 shift (automatic transaxle), 7-3 Cable replacement, hood release, 11-8 Caliper, disc brake, removal and installation, 9-11

Camshaft, oil seal, replacement (4.0L engine), 2B-14 Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor, replacement, 6-9 Camshaft(s), 3.6L V6 engines, removal, inspection and installation, 2B-16 Camshafts and bearings, 3.3L and 3.8L, removal, inspection and installation, 2C-8 Capacities, fluids and lubricants, 1-2 Carpets, maintenance, 11-6 Catalytic converter, replacement, 6-16 Center floor console, removal and installation, 11-30

Charging system, alternator, removal and installation, 5-6

Cylinder heads, removal and installation 3.3L/3.8L engines, 2A-11 3.6L and 4.0L V6 engines, 2B-18

D Dashboard trim panels, removal and installation, 11-23

Daytime Running Lights (DRL), general information, 12-16 Defogger, rear window, check and repair, 12-9 Diagnosis, 0-22 Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs), obtaining and clearing, 6-4

Disc brake caliper, removal and installation, 9-11 disc, inspection, removal and installation, 9-11 pads, replacement, 9-7 Disconnecting fuel line fittings, 4-4 Door module, latch, lock cylinder and handles, removal and

Chassis electrical system, 12-1 Chemicals and lubricants, 0-18 Circuit breakers, general information, 12-3

installation, 11-16 power sliding door drive assembly, removal and installation, 12-13

Coil pack or coils, ignition, replacement, 5-5 Coil springs, removal and installation, 10-9 Compressor, air conditioning, removal and installation, 3-12 Condenser, air conditioning, removal and installation, 3-13 Console, removal and installation center floor, 11-30 overhead, 11-23 Control arm, removal, inspection and installation, 10-7 Conversion factors, 0-19 Coolant level check, 1-9 reservoir, removal and installation, 3-8

type, 1-1 Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor, replacement, 6-11 Cooling system check, 1-18 servicing (draining, flushing and refilling), 1-26 Cowl cover, removal and installation, 11-10 Crankshaft balancer, removal and installation 3.3L/3.8L engines, 2A-8 3.6L and 4.0L V6 engines, 2B-9 front oil seal, replacement

3.3L/3.8L engines, 2A-8 3.6L and 4.0L V6 engines, 2B-11 Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor, replacement, 6-10 Crankshaft, removal and installation, 2C-13 Cruise control system, description and check, 12-14

Cylinder compression check, 2C-4

removal and installation, 11-14 trim panels, removal and installation, 11-11 window glass regulators, removal and installation, 11-21 window glass, removal and installation, 11-19

Driveaxle boot check, 1-19

replacement, 8-3 general information and inspection, 8-1 oil seals, replacement, 7-2 removal and installation, 8-2 Drivebelt check, adjustment and replacement, 1-22 tensioner, replacement, 1-22 Driveplate, removal and installation

3.3L/3.8L engines, 2A-14 3.6L and 4.0L V6 engines, 2B-22

E Electric side view mirrors, general information, 12-14 Electrical connectors, general information, 12-4 Electrical troubleshooting, general information, 12-1

Emissions and engine control systems, 6-1 Engine and emissions control systems general information, 6-2 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor, replacement, 6-11 Engine coolant, level check, 1-9 Engine cooling fan, replacement, 3-7

IND-3

Index 5 SS

SS

SSS

SS SPURS

Ss

SSS

SSCS

SS

I

Engine electrical systems, 5-1 troubleshooting, 5-2 Engine mount subframe, removal and installation, 10-10

oil pan, removal and installation, 2A-13

oil pump, removal, inspection and installation, 2A-13 rear main oil seal, replacement, 2A-15 repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle, 2A-3 rocker arms and pushrods, removal, inspection and

installation, 2A-4

DS

ZOE

tS

SSE

SA

OST

valve covers, removal and installation, 2A-3

3.6L and 4.0L V6 engines camshaft oil seal, 4.0L, replacement, 2B-14 camshaft(s), 3.6L, removal, inspection and installation, 2B-16 crankshaft balancer, removal and installation, 2B-9 crankshaft front oil seal, replacement, 2B-11 cylinder heads, removal and installation, 2B-18

driveplate, removal and installation, 2B-22 exhaust manifolds, removal and installation, 2B-9 intake manifold, removal and installation, 2B-6 mounts, check and replacement, 2B-23 oil cooler, removal and installation, 2B-22 oil pan, removal and installation, 2B-20 oil pump, removal, inspection and installation, 2B-21 rear main oil seal, replacement, 2B-22

Engine, general overhaul procedures

camshafts and bearings, 3.3L and 3.8L, removal, inspection and installation, 2C-8 crankshaft, removal and installation, 2C-13 cylinder compression check, 2C-4 engine overhaul disassembly sequence, 2C-8 reassembly sequence, 2C-18 engine rebuilding alternatives, 2C-6 engine removal, methods and precautions, 2C-6 engine, removal and installation, 2C-7 initial start-up and break-in after overhaul, 2C-18 oil pressure check, 2C-4 pistons and connecting rods, removal and installation, 2C-9 vacuum gauge diagnostic checks, 2C-5 Engine, in-vehicle repair procedures 3.3L and 3.8L V6 engines camshafts and bearings, removal, inspection and installation, 2C-8 crankshaft front oil seal, replacement, 2A-8 crankshaft pulley, removal and installation, 2A-8 cylinder heads, removal and installation, 2A-11 driveplate, removal and installation, 2A-14 exhaust manifolds, removal and installation, 2A-7 hydraulic roller lifters, removal, inspection and installation, 2A-10 intake manifold, removal and installation, 2A-5 mounts, check and replacement, 2A-15 oil cooler, removal and installation, 2A-14

FR

timing chain and sprockets, removal, inspection and installation, 2A-9 Top Dead Center (TDC) for number 1 piston, locating, 2A-3

general information and precautions, 5-2

Engine mounts, check and replacement 3.3L/3.8L engines, 2A-15 3.6L and 4.0L V6 engines, 2B-23 Engine oil and filter change, 1-13 level check, 1-8 type and viscosity, 1-1 Engine overhaul disassembly sequence, 2C-8 reassembly sequence, 2C-18 Engine rebuilding alternatives, 2C-6 Engine removal, methods and precautions, 2C-6

SP

repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle, 2B-5 rocker arms and hydraulic valve lash adjusters, removal, inspection and installation, 2B-15

timing belt, 4.0L, removal, inspection and installation, 2B-10 timing cover, chain and sprockets, 3.6L, removal,

inspection and installation, 2B-11 Top Dead Center (TDC) for number 1 piston, locating, 2B-5 valve covers, removal and installation, 2B-6 Engine, removal and installation, 2C-7 Evaporative emissions control (EVAP) system, component replacement, 6-17 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system, component replacement, 6-18 Exhaust manifolds, removal and installation 3.3L/3.8L engines, 2A-7 3.6L and 4.0L V6 engines, 2B-9 Exhaust system check, 1-20 servicing, general information, 4-5 Expansion valve, air conditioning, removal and installation, 3-14

Ie Fan, engine cooling, replacement, 3-7 Fastener and trim removal, 11-6

Fault finding, 0-22 Fender, front, removal and installation, 11-9 Filter replacement automatic transaxle, 1-26 engine air, 1-18

engine oil, 1-13 interior ventilation, 1-21

IND-4 Firing order, 1-2 Fluid level checks, 1-8

automatic transaxle, 1-10 brake fluid, 1-9 engine coolant, 1-9 engine oil, 1-8 power steering, 1-10 windshield and rear window washer, 1-9

Fluids and lubricants capacities, 1-2 recommended, 1-1 Fraction/decimal/millimeter equivalents, 0-20 Front hub and bearing assembly, removal and installation, 10-8

Fuel disconnecting fuel line fittings, 4-4 level sending unit replacement, 4-7

lines and fittings, general information and disconnection, 4-5 pressure relief procedure, 4-3 pressure, check, 4-3 pump/fuel pressure regulator/fuel level sending unit assembly, removal and installation, 4-6 rail and injectors, removal and installation, 4-7

system check, 1-21 tank, removal and installation, 4-5 troubleshooting, 4-2 Fuses, general information, 12-3 Fusible links, general information, 12-3

G General engine overhaul procedures camshafts and bearings, 3.3L and 3.8L, removal, inspection and installation, 2C-8 crankshaft, removal and installation, 2C-13 cylinder compression check, 2C-4 engine overhaul disassembly sequence, 2C-8 reassembly sequence, 2C-18

engine rebuilding alternatives, 2C-6 engine removal, methods and precautions, 2C-6 engine, removal and installation, 2C-7 initial start-up and break-in after overhaul, 2C-18 oil pressure check, 2C-4 pistons and connecting rods, removal and installation, 2C-9 vacuum gauge diagnostic checks, 2C-5 Grille, radiator, removal and installation, 11-8

index

H Headlight adjustment, 12-11 bulb, replacement, 12-10 housing, replacement, 12-10 Heater core, replacement, 3-11

Heater/air conditioning control assembly, removal and installation, 3-11

Heating and air conditioning system, check and maintenance, 3-5 Hood latch and cable, removal and installation, 11-8 Hood, removal, installation and adjustment, 11-7 Horn, replacement, 12-13

Hub and bearing assembly, removal and installation front, 10-8 rear, 10-10 Hydraulic roller lifters, 3.3L/3.8L engines, removal,

inspection and installation, 2A-10

Ignition system coil pack or coils, replacement, 5-5 Wireless Ignition Node (WIN), replacement, 12-5 Information sensors, 6-3 Initial start-up and break-in after overhaul, 2C-18 Injectors, fuel, removal and installation, 4-7 instrument cluster, removal and installation, 12-6

Instrument panel removal and installation, 11-26 switches, replacement, 12-5 Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor, replacement, 6-12 Intake manifold, removal and installation 3.3L/3.8L engines, 2A-5 3.6L and 4.0L V6 engines, 2B-6 Interior ventilation filter replacement, 1-21 Introduction, 0-5

J Jacking and towing, 0-17 Jump starting, 0-17

K Key lock cylinder and latch, door, removal and

installation, 11-16 Keyless entry system, description and check, 12-15 Knock sensor(s), replacement, 6-12

IND-5

Index SS

SE SES

SS

SS SSCP

SS

SESS

ES

L Liftgate latch, replacement, 11-18 struts, replacement, 11-15 Lubricants and chemicals, 0-18 Lubricants and fluids capacities, 1-2 recommended, 1-1

Maintenance schedule, 1-6 Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities, 0-10 Maintenance, routine, 1-1

Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor, replacement, 6-13 Master cylinder, brake, removal and installation, 9-13 Mirrors electric side view, general information, 12-14 removal and installation, 11-22

SS

O Oil cooler line, automatic transaxle, removal and

installation, 7-5 Oil cooler, removal and installation

3.3L/3.8L engines, 2A-14 3.6L and 4.0L V6 engines, 2B-22 Oil pan, removal and installation

3.3L/3.8L engines, 2A-13 3.6L and 4.0L V6 engines, 2B-20 Oil pressure check, 2C-4 Oil pump, removal, inspection and installation 3.3L/3.8L engines, 2A-13 3.6L and 4.0L V6 engines, 2B-21 Oii, engine level check, 1-8 type and viscosity, 1-1 On-Board Diagnosis (OBD) system, 6-4 Overhead console, removal and installation, 11-23

Oxygen sensors, general information and replacement, 6-13

PSS

SSS

SS

SSS

valve check and replacement, 1-25 Power brake booster, check, removal and

installation, 9-15 Power door lock and keyless entry system, description and check, 12-15

Power sliding door drive assembly, removal and installation, 12-13 Power steering fluid level check, 1-10 fluid type, 1-1 pump, removal and installation, 10-14 system, bleeding, 10-15 Power window system, description and check, 12-14 Powertrain Control Module (PCM), replacement, 6-16

Q Quarter window glass, removal and installation, 11-21

R Radiator grille, removal and installation, 11-8 Radiator, removal and installation, 3-8 Radio and speakers, removal and installation, 12-7 Rear axle assembly, removal and installation, 10-10

Rear heating and air conditioning housing, removal and installation, 3-14

Rear hub and bearing assembly, removal and installation, 10-10 Rear main oil seal, replacement

3.3L/3.8L engines, 2A-15 3.6L and 4.0L V6 engines, 2B-22 Rear trim panels, removal and installation, 11-27 Rear window defogger, check and repair, 12-9 Recall information, 0-7 Receiver-drier, air conditioning, removal and installation, 3-13 Recommended lubricants and fluids, 1-1 Relays, general information and testing, 12-3 Repair of minor paint scratches, 11-2 Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle

Parts, replacement, buying, 0-10

3.3L/3.8L engines, 2A-3 3.6L and 4.0L V6 engines, Replacement parts, buying, Rocker arms and hydraulic removal, inspection and 3.6L and 4.0L V6 engines,

Pistons and connecting rods, removal and installation, 2C-9

Rocker arms and pushrods, 3.3L/3.8L engines, removal, inspection and installation, 2A-4

p Pads, disc brake, replacement, 9-7

SS

Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) general information, 6-19

Multi-function switch, replacement, 12-5

Obtaining and clearing Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs), 6-4 Oil change indicator resetting, 1-14

SSS

2B-5 0-10 valve lash adjusters, installation 2B-15

IND-6

Index

Rotating the tires, 1-17 Rotor, brake, inspection, removal and installation, 9-11 Routine maintenance schedule, 1-6

Ss Safety first!, 0-21 Safety recall information, 0-7 Scheduled maintenance, 1-1, 1-6 Seat belt check, 1-17 Seats, removal and installation, 11-29 Shift cable, removal, installation and adjustment, 7-3 Shock absorbers (rear), removal and installation, 10-9 Spare tire, installing, 0-17

Spark plug check and replacement, 1-23 torque, 1-2

type and gap, 1-2 wire, check and replacement, 3.3L and 3.8L, 1-24 Speakers, removal and installation, 12-7 Stabilizer bar and bushings (front), removal and installation, 10-5 Starter motor, removal and installation, 5-7

Steering column covers, removal and installation, 11-23 column, removal and installation, 10-13

gear, removal and installation, 10-13 knuckle, removal and installation, 10-8 wheel, removal and installation, 10-11 Steering, suspension and driveaxle boot check, 1-19 Stop light switch, check, replacement and adjustment, 9-15 Strut assembly, front, removal, inspection and installation, 10-6 Strut/coil spring, Saatmaneat 10-6 Subframe/cradle, removal and installation, 10-10

Tire rotation, 1-17 Tire, spare, installing, 0-17

Tools and working facilities, 0-10 Top Dead Center (TDC) for number 1 piston, locating 3.3L/3.8L engines, 2A-3 3.6L and 4.0L V6 engines, 2B-5 Torque specifications cylinder head bolts 3.3L/3.8L engines, 2A-2 3.6L and 4.0L V6 engines, 2B-3 spark plugs, 1-2 thermostat housing bolts, 3-2 water pump bolts, 3-2 wheel lug nuts, 1-2 Other torque specifications can be found in the Chapter that deals with the component being serviced Towing, 0-17 Track bar, removal and installation, 10-9 Trailing arm bracket, removal and installation, 10-9

Transaxle speed sensors, replacement, 6-15 Transmission Range (TR) and transmission temperature sensors, replacement, 6-15 Trim panels, removal and installation

dashboard, 11-23 door, 11-11 rear, 11-27 Trouble codes, obtaining and clearing, 6-4 Troubleshooting, 0-22

brakes, 9-3 cooling, heating and air conditioning systems, 3-3 engine electrical systems, 5-2 fuel and exhaust systems, 4-2 Tune-up and routine maintenance, 1-1 Tune-up general information, 1-8

U Underhood hose check and replacement, 1-17

. Tensioner, drivebelit, replacement, 1-22 Thermostat, replacement, 3-7 Throttle body, removal and installation, 4-7

Throttle Position (TP) sensor, replacement, 6-15 Tie-rod ends, removal and installation, 10-12 Timing belt, 4.0L V6 engines, removal, inspection and installation, 2B-10 Timing chain and sprockets, 3.3L/3.8L engines, removal, inspection and installation, 2A-9 Timing cover, chain and sprockets, 3.6L V6 engines, removal, inspection and installation, 2B-11 Tire and tire pressure checks, 1-12

Upholstery, maintenance, 11-6

V Vacuum gauge diagnostic checks, 2C-5 Valve covers, removal and installation 3.3L/3.8L engines, 2A-3 3.6L and 4.0L V6 engines, 2B-6 Variable valve timing solenoid(s) (3.6L), replacement, 6-11 Vehicle identification numbers, 0-6 Vinyl trim, maintenance, 11-6

Index

IND-7

Windshield and rear window washer fluid,

W

Water pump, replacement, 3-8 Wheel alignment, general information, 10-15 ees and tires, general information, 10-15

indow glass regulators, removal and installation, 11-21

removal and installation door, 11-19

quarter window, 11-21

Hevelcnecks 1:9 Poem Wena

;

;

}

bennlade Inspection and, Feclacemen t 12-6

ay

des

Wireless ignition Node (WIN), replacement, 125

Wiring diagrams, general information, 12-17 Working facilities, 0-10

IND-8

Index

Notes

Haynes Automotive

Manuals

NOTE: If you do not see a listing for your vehicle, consult your local Haynes dealer for the latest product information.

ACURA 12020 12021

12050 AMC 14020 14025 AUDI 15020 15025 15026 15030

integra ’86 thru ’89 & Legend ’86 thru ’90 Integra ’90 thru 93 & Legend ’91 thru ’95 Integra '94 thru ’00 - see HONDA Civic (42025) MDX ’01 thru ’07 - see HONDA Pilot (42037) Acura TL all models ’99 thru ’08

Jeep CJ - see JEEP (50020) Mid-size models ’70 thru ’83 (Renault) Alliance & Encore '83 thru ’87 4000 5000 5000 Audi Audi

all all all A4 A4

models models models ’96 thru ‘02 thru

24066 24067 24070

24071 24072 24075 24080 24081

’80 thru ’87 ’77 thru ’83 ’84 thru ’88 ’01 - see VW Passat (96023) ‘08

BMW 18020 18021 18022 18023 18025 18050 BUICK

Chrysler Engine Overhaul Manual Chrysler Cirrus, Dodge Stratus,

25020

Plymouth Breeze '95 thru ’00 Full-size Front-Wheel Drive ’88 thru ’93

19010

19020

19025

25026 25027 25030

320i all 4 cyl models ’75 thru ’83 1500 thru 2002 except Turbo ’59 thru ’77

Buick Century ’97 thru ’05 Century (front-wheel drive) - see GM (38005) Buick, Oldsmobile & Pontiac Full-size (Front-wheel drive) ’85 thru ’05 Buick Electra, LeSabre and Park Avenue; Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royale, Ninety Eight and Regency; Pontiac Bonneville Buick, Oldsmobile & Pontiac Full-size (Rear whee! drive) ’70 thru ’90 Buick Estate, Electra, LeSabre, Limited, Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser, Delta 88, Ninety-eight, Pontiac Bonneville, Catalina, Grandviile, Parisienne

19030

Mid-size Regal & Century all rear-drive models with V6, V8 and Turbo ’74 thru ’87 Regal - see GENERAL MOTORS (38010) Riviera - see GENERAL MOTORS (38030) Roadmaster - see CHEVROLET (24046) Skyhawk - see GENERAL MOTORS (38015) Skylark - see GM (38020, 38025) Somerset - see GENERAL MOTORS (38025)

CADILLAC 21015 21030

CTS & CTS-V ‘03 thru ‘12 Cadillac Rear Wheel Drive ’70 thru ’93 Cimarron - see GENERAL MOTORS (38015) DeVille - see GM (38031 & 38032) Eldorado - see GM (38030 & 38031)

Fleetwood - see GM (38031) Seville - see GM (38030, 38031 & 38032)

10305 24010 24015 24016 24017

Chevroiet Engine Overhaul Manual Astro & GMC Safari Mini-vans ’85 thru ’05 Camaro V8 all models ’70 thru ’81 Camaro all models ’82 thru ’92 Camaro & Firebird ’93 thru ’02 Cavalier - see GENERAL MOTORS (38016)

Celebrity - see GENERAL MOTORS (38005)

24020 24024 24027 24032 24040 24041 24045 24046

Cheveile, Malibu & El Camino ’69 thru ’87 Chevette & Pontiac T1000 ’76 thru ’87 Citation - see GENERAL MOTORS (38020) Colorado & GMC Canyon ’04 thru 10 Corsica/Beretta all models ’87 thru ’96 Corvette all V8 models ’68 thru ’82 Corvette al! models ’84 thru ’96 Full-size Sedans Caprice, Impala, Biscayne, Bel Air & Wagons ’69 thru ’90 impala SS & Caprice and Buick Roadmaster '91 thru ’96

24047 24048 24050 24055 24059 24060 24064 24065

impala ’00 thru ’05 - see LUMINA (24048) Impala & Monte Carlo all models ’06 thru 11 Lumina ’90 thru ’94 - see GM (38010) Lumina & Monte Carlo ’95 thru ’05 Lumina APV - see GM (38035) Luv Pick-up all 2WD & 4WD ’72 thru ’82 Malibu ’97 thru ’00 - see GM (38026) Monte Carlo ali models ’70 thru ’88 Monte Carlo '95 thru ’01 - see LUMINA (24048) Nova all V8 models ’69 thru ’79 Nova and Geo Prizm ’85 thru ’92 Pick-ups ’67 thru ’87 - Chevrolet & GMC Pick-ups ’88 thru ’98 - Chevrolet & GMC

SS

25035 25040

ET

LT

ES

K-Cars - see DODGE Aries (30008) Laser - see DODGE Daytona (30030) Chrysler LHS, Concorde, New Yorker, Dodge Intrepid, Eagle Vision, ’93 thru ’97 Chrysler LHS, Concorde, 300M, Dodge Intrepid, ’98 thru ’04 Chrysler 300, Dodge Charger & Magnum ’05 thru ’09 Chrysler & Plymouth Mid-size front wheel drive ’82 thru ’95 Rear-wheel Drive - see Dodge (30050) PT Cruiser all models ’01 thru 710 Chrysler Sebring ’95 thru ’06, Dodge Stratus ‘01 thru '06, Dodge Avenger ’95 thru ’00

28005 28007 28009 28012 28014

200SX all models ’80 thru ’83 B-210 all models ’73 thru ’78 210 all models ’79 thru ’82 240Z, 260Z & 280Z Coupe ’70 thru ’78 280ZX Coupe & 2+2 ’79 thru ’83 300ZX - see NISSAN (72010)

28018 28020 28022

510 & PL521 Pick-up ’68 thru ’73 510 all models ’78 thru ’81 620 Series Pick-up all models ’73 thru ’79 720 Series Pick-up - see NISSAN (72030) 810/Maxima all gasoline models ’77 thru ’84

28025

DODGE 30008 30010 30011 30012 30013

30016 30020 30021 30022 30023 30025

30034 30035 30036 30040 30041 30042 30045 30050 30055 30060 30065

36070 36071 36074 36075 36078 36082 36086 36090 36094 36097

TE

GM Automatic Transmission Overhaul Buick Century, Chevrolet Celebrity, Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera & Pontiac 6000 all models ’82 thru ’96

38010

Buick Regal, Chevrolet Lumina, Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme & Pontiac Grand Prix (FWD) ’88 thru ’07 Buick Skyhawk, Cadillac Cimarron, Chevrolet Cavalier, Oldsmobile Firenza & Pontiac J-2000 & Sunbird ’82 thru 94 Chevrolet Cavalier & Pontiac Sunfire ’95 thru ’05 Chevrolet Cobalt & Pontiac G5 ’05 thru 11 Buick Skylark, Chevrolet Citation, Olds Omega, Pontiac Phoenix ’80 thru ’85 Buick Skylark & Somerset, Oldsmobile Achieva & Calais and Pontiac Grand Am all models ’85 thru ’98 Chevrolet Malibu, Olds Alero & Cutlass, Pontiac Grand Am ’97 thru ’03 Chevrolet Malibu ’04 thru ’10 Cadillac Eldorado, Seville, Oldsmobile

Neon all models 95 thru ’99 Omni & Plymouth Horizon ’78 thru ’90 Dodge and Plymouth Neon ’00 thru ’05 Pick-ugs all full-size models ’74 thru ’93 Pick-ups all full-size models ’94 thru ’07 Pick-ups full-size models ’02 thru ’08 Ram 50/D50 Pick-ups & Raider and Plymouth Arrow Pick-ups ’79 thru ’93 Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler RWD ’71 thru ’89 Shadow & Plymouth Sundance ’87 thru ’94 Spirit & Plymouth Acclaim ’89 thru ’95 Vans - Dodge & Plymouth ’71 thru ’03

38016 38017 38020

38025 38026 38027 38030

Toronado, Buick Riviera ’71 thru ’85 Cadillac Eldorado & Seville, DeVille, Fleetwood & Olds Toronado, Buick Riviera ’86 thru 93

38031 38032

Cadillac DeVille ’94 thru ’05 & Seville ’92 thru ’04 Cadillac DTS '06 thru 10 Chevrolet Lumina APV, Olds Silhouette & Pontiac Trans Sport all models ’90 thru ’96 Chevrolet Venture, Olds Silhouette, Pontiac Trans Sport & Montana ’97 thru ’05 General Motors Full-size Rear-wheel Drive - see BUICK (19025) Chevrolet Equinox ‘05 thru ‘09 Pontiac Torrent ‘06 thru ‘09 Chevrolet HHR ‘06 thru ‘11

38035 38036

38040

38070 GEO

Metro ~ see CHEVROLET Sprint (24075) Prizm - ’85 thru ’92 see CHEVY (24060),

’93 thru ’02 see TOYOTA Corolla (92036) 40030

FIAT

36016 36020

10360 38005

38015 400 & 600 - see CHRYSLER (25030) Aries & Plymouth Reliant ’81 thru ’89 Caravan & Plymouth Voyager ’84 thru ’95 Caravan & Plymouth Voyager ’96 thru ’02 Challenger/Plymouth Saporro ’78 thru ’83 Caravan, Chrysler Voyager, Town & Country ’03 thru ’07 Colt & Plymouth Champ ’78 thru ’87 Dakota Pick-ups all models ’87 thru ’96 Durango ’98 & 99, Dakota ’97 thru ’99 Durango ’00 thru ’03 Dakota ’00 thru ’04 Durango '04 thru ’09, Dakota ’05 thru ’11 Dart, Demon, Plymouth Barracuda, Duster & Valiant 6 cyl models ’67 thru ’76 Daytona & Chrysler Laser ’84 thru ’89 Intrepid - see CHRYSLER (25025, 25026)

Talon - see MITSUBISHI (68030, 68031) Vision - see CHRYSLER (25025)

FORD 10320 10355 11500 36004 36006 36008 36012

F-150 & Expedition ’97 thru ’09, F-250 ’97 thru ’99 & Lincoln Navigator ’98 thru ’09 Super Duty Pick-ups, Excursion ’99 thru ’10 F-150 full-size ’04 thru 10 Pinto & Mercury Bobcat ’75 thru ’80 Probe all models ’89 thru ’92 Probe ’93 thru ’97 - see MAZDA 626 (61042) Ranger/Bronco Ili gasoline models ’83 thru ’92 Ranger ’93 thru 10 & Mazda Pick-ups ’94 thru 09 Taurus & Mercury Sable ’86 thru ’95 Taurus & Mercury Sable ’96 thru ’05 Tempo & Mercury Topaz ’84 thru ’94 Thunderbird/Mercury Cougar ’83 thru ’88 Thunderbird/Mercury Cougar ’89 thru ’97 Vans all V8 Econoline models ’69 thru 91 Vans full size ’92 thru 10 Windstar Mini-van ’95 thru ’07

GENERAL MOTORS

EAGLE

34010 34025

Escape & Mazda Tribute ’01 thru ’11 Explorer & Mazda Navajo ’91 thru ’01 Explorer/Mercury Mountaineer ’02 thru 10 Fairmont & Mercury Zephyr ’78 thru ’83 Festiva & Aspire ’88 thru ’97 Fiesta all models ’77 thru ’80 Focus all models ’00 thru ’11 Ford & Mercury Full-size ’75 thru ’87 Ford & Mercury Mid-size ’75 thru ’86 Fusion & Mercury Milan ‘06 thru ‘10 Mustang V8 all models ’64-1/2 thru ’73 Mustang II 4 cyl, V6 & V8 models ’74 thru ’78 Mustang & Mercury Capri ’79 thru ’93 Mustang all models ’94 thru ’04 Mustang ’05 thru ’10 Pick-ups & Bronco ’73 thru ’79 Pick-ups & Bronco ’80 thru ’96

36060 36061 36062 36066

DATSUN

30030

CHEVROLET

ing Blazer, Jimmy & Hombre Chevrolet TrailBlazer, GMC Envoy & Oldsmobile Bravada ’02 thru ’09 Sprint ’85 thru ’88 & Geo Metro ’89 thru ’01 Vans - Chevrolet & GMC ’68 thru ’96 Chevrolet Express & GMC Savana Full-size Vans ’96 thru 10

10310 25015

25025

3/5 Series ’82 thru ’92 3-Series incl. Z3 models ’92 thru ’98 3-Series incl. Z4 models ’99 thru ’05 3-Series ‘06 thru ‘10

36022 36024 36025 36028 36030 36032 36034 36036 36044 36045 36048 36049 36050 36051 36052 36054 36058 36059

CHRYSLER

AUSTIN-HEALEY Sprite - see MG Midget (66015)

Pick-ups 99 thru ’06 - Chevrolet & GMC Chevrolet Silverado & GMC Sierra ‘07 thru ‘12 S-10 & S-15 Pick-ups ’82 thru '93, Blazer & Jimmy ’83 thru 94, S-10 & Sonoma Pick-ups '94 thru ’04, includ-

124 Sport Coupe & Spider ’68 thru ’78 X1/9 all models ’74 thru ’80

Storm all models ’90 thru ’93 Tracker - see SUZUKI Samurai (90010)

GMC

Vans & Pick-ups - see CHEVROLET

HONDA 42010 42011 42012 42013 42014 42015 42020 42021 42022

Ford Engine Overhaul Manual Ford Automatic Transmission Overhaul Mustang ’64-1/2 thru ’70 Restoration Guide Aerostar Mini-vans all models ’86 thru ’97 Contour & Mercury Mystique ’95 thru ’00 Courier Pick-up aii models '72 thru ’82 Crown Victoria & Mercury Grand Marquis ’88 thru ’10 Escort/Mercury Lynx all models ’81 thru ’90 Escort/Mercury Tracer ’91 thru ’02 I

SE

LL

DT

SE

A

LOE

ELE

TET

Accord CVCC all models '76 thru ’83 Accord all models ’84 thru ’89 Accord all models ’90 thru ’93 Accord all models ’94 thru ’97 Accord all models ’98 thru ’02 Accord '03 thru ’07 Civic 1200 all :models ’73 thru ’79 Civic 1300 & 1500 CVCC ’80 thru ’83 Civic 1500 CVCC all models ’75 thru ’79

(Continued on other side) IL

I

EE

ENE SEE

ESE

ELL IDOL

DDE SESE

EEL

Haynes North America, Inc., 861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, CA 91320-1514 © (805) 498-6703 ¢ http://www.haynes.com

ATT,

Haynes Automotive

Manuals (continued)

NOTE: If you do not see a listing for your vehicle, consult your local Haynes dealer for the latest product information. 42023 42024 42025

42026 42035 42037 42040

Civic all models ’84 thru ’91 Civic & del Sol ’92 thru ’95 Civic ’96 thru ’00, CR-V ’97 thru ’01, Acura Integra ’94 thru ’00 Civic ’01 thru 10, CR-V ’02 thru ’09 Odyssey all models ’99 thru '10 Passport - see /SUZU Rodeo (47017) Honda Pilot ’03 thru 07, Acura MDX '01 thru '07 Prelude CVCC all models '79 thru ’89

HYUNDAI 43010 43015 43050 43055

Elantra all models ’96 thru '10 Excel & Accent all models ’86 thru ’09 Santa Fe all models ’01 thru ’06 Sonata all models ’99 thru ’08

INFINITI G35 ’03 thru ’08 - see NISSAN 350Z (72011) Hombre - see CHEVROLET S-10 (24071) Rodeo, Amigo & Honda Passport ’89 thru '02 Trooper & Pick-up ’81 thru ’93

JAGUAR 49010 49011 49015

XJ6 all 6 cyl models ’68 thru ’86 XJ6 all models ’88 thru ’94 XJ12 & XJS all 12 cyl models ’72 thru ’85

JEEP 50010

50020 50025 50026 50029 50030 50035

Cherokee, Comanche & Wagoneer Limited all models ’84 thru ’01 CJ all models ’49 thru ’86 Grand Cherokee all models ’93 thru ’04 Grand Cherokee ’05 thru ’09 Grand Wagoneer & Pick-up ’72 thru ’91 Grand Wagoneer ’84 thru ’91, Cherokee & Wagoneer ’72 thru ’83, Pick-up ’72 thru ’88 Wrangler all models ’87 thru ’11 Liberty 02 thru ’07

KIA 54050 54070

LEXUS

Optima ‘01 thru ‘10 Sephia ’94 thru ’01, Spectra ’00 thru ’09, Sportage ’05 thru ’10

ES 300/330 - see TOYOTA Camry (92007) (92008) RX 330 - see TOYOTA Highlander (92095)

LINCOLN 59010

Navigator - see FORD Pick-up (36059) Rear-Wheel Drive all models ’70 thru ’10

MAZDA 61010 61011

GLC Hatchback (rear-wheel drive) '77 thru '83 GLC (front-wheel drive) ’81 thru '85

61012 61015 61016

Mazda3 ‘04 thru ‘11 323 & Protogé '90 thru '03 MX-5 Miata '90 thru ’09

61020

MPV all models ’89 thru '98 Navajo - see Ford Explorer (36024) Pick-ups ’72 thru ’93 Pick-ups 94 thru '00 - see Ford Ranger (36071)

61030

61035 61036 61040 61041 61042 61043

RX-7 all models ’79 thru ’85 RX-7 all models ’86 thru ’91 626 (rear-wheel drive) all models ’79 thru ’82 626/MX-6 (front-wheel drive) '83 thru '92 626, MX-6/Ford Probe '93 thru '02 Mazda6 ‘03 thru ‘11

MERCEDES-BENZ 63012 63015 63020 63025 63030 63040

123 Series Diesel ’76 thru 85 190 Series four-cyl gas models, ’84 thru ’88 230/250/280 6 cyl sohc models ’68 thru ’72 280 123 Series gasoline models ’77 thru ’81 350 & 450 all models ’71 thru ’80 C-Class: C230/C240/C280/C320/C350 '01 thru '07

MERCURY 64200

Villager & Nissan Quest ’93 thru ’01 All other titles, see FORD Listing.

MG 66010 66015

MGB Roadster & GT Coupe ’62 thru ’80 MG Midget, Austin Healey Sprite ’58 thru 80

MINI 67020 Mini ‘02 thru ‘11 MITSUBISHI 68020 68030 68031 68035 68040

72010 72011 72015 72016 72020 72021 72025 72030 72031 72032 72040

300ZX all models including Turbo ’84 thru ’89 350Z & Infiniti G35 all models ’03 thru ’08 Altima all models ’93 thru ’06 Altima ‘07 thru ‘10 Maxima ail models ’85 thru ’92 Maxima all models ’93 thru ’04 Murano ‘03 thru ‘10 Pick-ups ’80 thru ’97 Pathfinder ’87 thru ’95 Frontier Pick-up, Xterra, Pathfinder ’96 thru ’04 Frontier & Xterra ’05 thru 11 Pulsar all models ’83 thru ’86 Quest - see MERCURY Villager (64200) Sentra al! models ’82 thru ’94 Sentra & 200SX all models ’95 thru ’06 Stanza all models ’82 thru ’90 Titan pick-ups ‘04 thru ‘10 Armada ‘05 thru ‘10

72050 72051 72060

72070

OLDSMOBILE

ISUZU 47017 47020

TRIUMPH

NISSAN

Cordia, Tredia, Galant, Precis & Mirage ’83 thru ’93 Eclipse, Eagle Talon & Ply. Laser ’90 thru ’94 Eclipse ’95 thru ’05, Eagle Talon ’95 thru '98 Galant ’94 thru 10 Pick-up ’83 thru ’96 & Montero 83 thru 93

73015

Cutlass V6 & V8 gas models ’74 thru ’88 For other OLDSMOBILE titles, see BUICK, CHEVROLET or GENERAL MOTORS listing.

PLYMOUTH For PLYMOUTH titles, see DODGE listing.

PONTIAC 79008 79018 79019

Fiero all models ’84 thru ’88 Firebird V8 models except Turbo ’70 thru ’81 Firebird all models ’82 thru ’92 G6 all models ‘05 thru ‘09 Mid-size Rear-wheel Drive ’70 thru ’87 Vibe ’03 thru 11 - see TOYOTA Matrix (92060) For other PONTIAC titles, see BUICK, CHEVROLET or GENERAL MOTORS listing.

79025 79040

PORSCHE 80020 80025 80030 80035

911 914 924 944

except Turbo & Carrera 4 ’65 thru ’89 all 4 cyl models ’69 thru ’76 all models including Turbo ’76 thru ’82 all models including Turbo ’83 thru ’89

RENAULT Alliance & Encore - see AMC (14020)

SAAB 84010

900 all models including Turbo ’79 thru ’88

SATURN 87010 87011 87020

Saturn all S-series models ’91 thru ’02 Saturn lon ’03 thru ’07 Saturn all L-series models ’00 thru ’04

87040

Saturn VUE '02 thru ’07

SUBARU 89002 89003 89100 89101

1100, 1300, 1400 & 1600 '71 thru ’79 1600 & 1800 2WD & 4WD ’80 thru '94 Legacy all models ’90 thru ’99 Legacy & Forester '00 thru '06

SUZUKI 90010

Samural/Sidekick & Geo Tracker '86 thru '01

TOYOTA 92005 92006 92007 92008 92009 92015 92020 92025 92030 92032 92035 92036 92037 92040 92045 92050 92055 92056

Camry all models 83 thru ’91 Camry all models '92 thru '96 Camry, Avalon, Solara, Lexus ES 300 ’97 thru '01 Toyota Camry, Avalon and Solara and Lexus ES 300/330 all models '02 thru ’06 Camry ‘07 thru ‘11 Celica Rear Wheel Drive '71 thru '85 Celica Front Wheel Drive ’86 thru '99 Celica Supra all models '79 thru '92 Corolla all models ’75 thru ’79 Corolla all rear wheel drive mode's ’80 thru 87 Corolla all front wheel drive models '84 thru ’92 Corolla & Geo Prizm '93 thru '02 Corolla models ’03 thru '11 Corolla Tercel all models '80 thru ’82 Corona all models ’74 thru ’82 Cressida all models ’78 thru ’82 Land Cruiser FJ40, 43, 45, 55 ’68 thru ’82 Land Cruiser FJ60, 62, 80, FZJ80 ’80 thru 96

92060 92065 92070 92075 92076 92077 $2078 92079 92080 92081

Matrix & Pontiac Vibe ’03 thru ’11 MR2 all models ’85 thru ’87 Pick-up all models ’69 thru ’78 Pick-up all models ’79 thru ’95 Tacoma, 4Runner, & T100 ’93 thru ’04 Tacoma all models ’05 thru ’09 Tundra ’00 thru 06 & Sequoia ’01 thru '07 4Runner all models ’03 thru ’09 Previa all models ’91 thru 95 Prius all models 01 thru ’08

92082

RAV4 all models ’96 thru ’10

92085 92090 92095

Tercel all models ’87 thru '94 Sienna all models ’98 thru ’09 Highlander & Lexus RX-330 ’99 thru '07

94007 94010

Spitfire all models ’62 thru ’81 TR7 all models ’75 thru ’81

VW 96008 96009 96016

Beetle & Karmann Ghia 54 thru ’79 New Beetle ’98 thru ’11 Rabbit, Jetta, Scirocco & Pick-up gas models ’75 thru ’92 & Convertible ’80 thru ’92

96017 96018 96019 96020 96023 96030 96035 96040 96045

Golf, GTI & Jetta ’93 thru 98, Cabrio ’95 thru 02 Golf, GTI, Jetta ’99 thru ’05 Jetta, Rabbit, GTI & Golf ‘05 thru ‘11 Rabbit, Jetta & Pick-up diesel ’77 thru ’84 Passat ’98 thru ’05, Audi A4 ’96 thru ’01 Transporter 1600 all models ’68 thru ’79 Transporter 1700, 1800 & 2000 ’72 thru ’79 Type 3 1500 & 1600 all models ’63 thru ’73 Vanagon all air-cooled models ’80 thru ’83

VOLVO 97010 97015 97020 97040 97050

120, 140 240 740 850

130 Series & 1800 Sports ’61 thru ’73 Series all models ’66 thru ’74 Series all models ’76 thru ’93 & 760 Series all models ’82 thru ’88 Series all models ’93 thru ’97

TECHBOOK 10205 10206 10210 10215 10220 10225 10230 10240 10305 10310 10320 10330 10333 10340 10341 10345

MANUALS

Automotive Computer Codes OBD-II & Electronic Engine Management Automotive Emissions Control Manual Fuel Injection Manual ’78 thru ’85 Fuel Injection Manual ’86 thru ’99 Holley Carburetor Manual Rochester Carburetor Manual Weber/Zenith/Stromberg/SU Carburetors Chevrolet Engine Overhaul Manual Chrysler Engine Overhaul Manual Ford Engine Overhaul Manual GM and Ford Diesel Engine Repair Manual Engine Performance Manual Small Engine Repair Manual, 5 HP & Less Small Engine Repair Manual, 5.5 - 20 HP Suspension, Steering & Driveline Manual

10355' Ford Automatic Transmission Overhaul 10360 10405 10410 10411 10415 10420 10425 10430 10435 10440 10445 10450 10452

GM Automatic Transmission Overhaul Automotive Body Repair & Painting Automotive Brake Manual Automotive Anti-lock Brake (ABS) Systems Automotive Detaiing Manual Automotive Electrical Manual

Automotive Heating & Air Conditioning Automotive Reference Manual & Dictionary Automotive Tools Manual Used Car Buying Guide Welding Manual ATV Basics Scooters 50cc to 250cc

SPANISH MANUALS 98903 98904 98905 98906 98910 98913

98915 99040 99041 99042 99043 99048 99055 99075 99076 99077 99088 99089 99091 99095 99100 99106 99110 99118 99125

Reparacién de Carroceria & Pintura Manual de Carburador Modelos Holley & Rochester Cédigos Automotrices de ta Computadora OBD-II & Sistemas de Control Electrénico del Motor Frenos Automotriz Electricidad Automotriz Inyeccién de Combustible '86 al '99 Chevrolet & GMC Camionetas ’67 al '87 Chevrolet & GMC Camionetas ’88 al '98 Chevrolet & GMC Camionetas Cerradas '68 al 95 Chevrolet/GMC Camionetas ‘94 al ‘04 Chevrolet/GMC Camionetas ‘99 al ‘06 Dodge Caravan & Plymouth Voyager ’84 al 95 Ford Camionetas y Bronco ’80 al '94 Ford F-150 ‘97 al ‘09 Ford Camionetas Cerradas ’69 al ’91 Ford Modelos de Tamafio Mediano '75 al 86 Ford Camionetas Ranger ‘93 al ‘10 Ford Taurus & Mercury Sable ’86 al ’95 GM Modelos de Tamajfio Grande ’70 al 90 GM Modelos de Tamafio Mediano ‘70 al ’88 Jeep Cherokee, Wagoneer & Comanche *84 al 00 Nissan Camioneta ’80 al ’96, Pathfinder '87 al 95 Nissan Sentra ’82 al 94 Toyota Camionetas y 4Runner ’79 al ’95 Over 100 Haynes motorcycle manuals also available

7-12

Haynes North America, Inc., 861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, CA 91320-1514 ¢ (805) 498-6703 « http://www.haynes.com

Common

spark plug conditions NORMAL Symptoms: Brown to grayish-tan color and slight electrode wear. Correct heat range for engine and operating conditions. Recommendation: When new spark plugs are installed, replace with plugs of the same heat range.

TOO HOT

WORN Symptoms: Rounded electrodes with a small amount of deposits on the firing end. Normal color. Causes hard starting in damp or cold weather and poor fuel economy. Recommendation: Plugs have been left in the engine too long. Replace with new plugs of the same heat range. Follow the recommended maintenance schedule.

ry sooty deposits \ixture or weak ignisfiring, hard starting ion: Make sure the sorrect heat range.

logged air filter or jel system or engine ystem. Also check em problems.

:

oe) o,

SITS ght brown deposits the side or center oth. Derived from oil additives. Excessive amounts may mask the spark, causing misfiring and hesitation during acceleration. Recommendation: _ |f excessive deposits accumulate over a short time or low mileage, install new valve guide seals to prevent seepage of oil into the combustion chambers. Also try changing gasoline brands.

OIL DEPOSITS Symptoms:

Oily coating

by poor oil control.

mixture, intake manifold vacuum leaks, sticking valves and _ insufficient engine cooling.

PREIGNITION

[POSITS

an oy

Symptoms: Blistered, white insulator, eroded electrode and absence of deposits. Results in shortened plug life. Recommendation: Check for the correct plug heat range, overadvanced ignition timing, lean fuel

caused

Oil is leaking

past worn valve guides or piston rings into the combustion chamber. Causes hard starting, misfiring and hesitation. Recommendation: Correct the mechanical condition with necessary repairs and install new plugs.

Symptoms: Melted electrodes. Insulators are white, but may be dirty due to misfiring or fiying debris in the combustion chamber. Can lead to engine damage. Recommendation: Check for the correct plug heat range, over-

advanced ignition timing, lean fuel mixture, insufficient engine cooling and lack of lubrication.

HIGH SPEED GLAZING Symptoms; Insulator has yellowish, glazed appearance. Indicates that combustion chamber temperatures have risen suddenly during hard acceleration. Normal deposits melt to form a conductive coating. Causes misfiring at high speeds. Recommendation: _ Install new plugs. Consider using a colder plug if driving habits warrant.

DETONATION Symptoms: Insulators may be cracked or chipped. Improper gap setting techniques can also result in a fractured insulator tip. Can lead to piston damage. Recommendation: Make sure the fuel anti-knock values meet engine requirements.

Use care when

set-

ting the gaps on new plugs. Avoid lugging the engine.

MECHANICAL DAMAGE GAP BRIDGING Symptoms: Combustion deposits lodge between the electrodes. Heavy deposits accumulate and bridge the electrode gap. The plug ceases to fire, resulting in a dead eylinder. R. commendation: — Locate the fewtty plug and remove the deposits

from between the electrodes.

Symptoms: May be caused by a foreign object in the combustion chamber or the piston striking an incorrect reach (too long) plug. Causes a dead cylinder and could result in piston damage.

Recommendation: Repair the mechanical damage. Remove the foreign object from the engine and/ or install the correct reach plug.

ANOKA

i

sp-by-step proc

RARY, BLAINE MN

sinked tohundreds of

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and illustrations

Complete troubleshooting : _ Specific problems

© Written from

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for the home mechanic

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’ Dodge Grand eéravan and ChryslerTown & Country models , 2008 through 2012 ny

Includes Caravan Cargo models

h ~ Does not include information specific to all-wheel drive or diesel engine models.

inh MNOPORST:

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ISBN-10:1-62092-044-1 ISBN-13; 978-1-62092-044-2

81620"920442