Haynes Dodge & Plymouth Vans Automotive Repair Manual [349] 1850107416, 9781850107415

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Dodge & Plymouth Vans

Automotive Repair

Manual

by Olaf Wolff and John H Haynes Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers

Models covered: Full-size Dodge and Plymouth vans, 1971 thru 1991 225 cubic inch inline six-cylinder, 238 cubic inch V6, 318, 360, 400 and 440 cubic inch V8 engines, manual and automatic transmissions

(11U6 — 349)

PAE cSonuss MEMBER MESES Haynes Publishing Group Sparkford Nr Yeovil Somerset BA22 7JJ England Haynes North America, Inc. 861 Lawrence Drive Newbury Park California 91320 USA

ABCDE

fs

Acknowledgements We are grateful for Corporation for their tain illustrations and Plug Company who plug conditions.

the help and cooperation of the Chrysler assistance with technical information, cervehicle photos, and the Champion Spark supplied the illustrations of various spark

© Haynes North America, Inc.

1987, 1989, 1991

With permission from J. H. Haynes & Co. Ltd.

A book in the Haynes Automotive Repair Manual Series Printed in the USA

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any

information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 185010

7416

Library of Congress Catalog Card Number 91-71152 While every atttempt is made to ensure that the information in this manual is correct, no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

Contents

Page

Introductory pages About this manual Introduction to the Dodge and Plymouth Vans Vehicle identification numbers

5 5 6

Buying parts Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Booster battery (jump) starting Jacking and towing Safety first!

8 8 15 15 16

Automotive

17

chemicals and lubricants

Conversion factors Troubleshooting

18 19

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

26

Chapter 2 Part A Six-cylinder engine

62

Chapter 2 Part B V8 engines

70

2B

Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures

80

2c

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

101

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

105

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

127

Chapter 6 Emissions control systems

134

Chapter 7 Part A Manual transmission

147

7A

Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transmission

169

7B

Chapter8 Clutch and drivetrain

173

Chapter 9 Brakes

184

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

201

Chapter 11

Body

Zia

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

226

Chapter 13 Supplement: Revisions and

information on 1987 and later models

233

Wiring diagrams

250

Index

297

See hh nie

ebpog uea

About this manual [ts purpose The purpose of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done, even if you choose to have it done by a dealer service department or a repair shop; it provides information and procedures for routine maintenance and servicing; and it offers diagnostic

and repair procedures to follow when trouble occurs. It is hoped that you will use the manual to tackle the work yourself. For many simpler jobs, doing it yourself may be quicker than arranging an appointment to get the vehicle into a shop and making the trips to leave it and pick it up. More importantly, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the expense the shop must pass on to you to cover its labor and overhead costs. An added benefit is the sense of satisfaction and accomplishment that you feel after having done the job yourself.

Using the manual The manual

is divided into Chapters.

Each Chapter is divided into

numbered Sections, which are headed in bold type between horizontal

lines. Each Section consists of consecutively numbered paragraphs. At the beginning of each numbered section you will be referred to any illustrations which apply to the procedures in that section. The reference numbers used in illustration captions pinpoint the pertinent Section and the Step within that section. That is, illustration 3.2 means the illustration refers to Section 3 and Step (or paragraph) 2 within that Section. Procedures, once described in the text, are not normally repeated. When it is necessary to refer to another Chapter, the reference will be given as Chapter and Section number i.e. Chapter 1/16). Cross references given without use of the word ‘’Chapter’’ apply to Sections and/or paragraphs in the same Chapter. For example, ‘’see Section 8”’ means in the same Chapter. Reference to the left or right side of the vehicle is based on the assumption that one is sitting in the driver’s seat, facing forward. Even though extreme care has been taken during the preparation of this manual, neither the publisher nor the author can accept responsibility for any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

NOTE A Note provides information necessary to properly complete a procedure or information which will make the steps to be followed easier to understand.

CAUTION A Caution indicates a special procedure or special.steps which must be taken in the course of completing the procedure in which the Caution is found which are necessary to avoid damage to the assembly being worked on.

WARNING A Warning indicates a special procedure or special steps which must be taken in the course of completing the procedure in which the Warning is found which are necessary to avoid injury to the person performing the procedure.

Introduction to the Dodge and Plymouth vans The Dodge late model full-size vans were introduced in mid-1970 to replace the earlier A100/108 models. From the start, these models were a great success in a competitive market, not only for the general trade and passenger-carrying duties, but also with those people interested in customizing. The range was supplemented in 1974 with the Plymouth Voyager which appeared as a passenger-carrying variant only.

The original Dodge version used a six-cylinder 225 cubic inch inline engine, or a V8 engine of either 318 or 360 cubic inch capacity, with either a 3-speed manual or a 3-speed automatic transmission. There were later modifications that brought engine capacities up to 400 and 440 cubic inches as options, as well as a a 4-speed manual transmission.

Vehicle identification

numbers

Modifications are a continuing and unpublicized process in vehicle manufacturing. Since spare parts manuals and lists are compiled on a numerical basis, the individual vehicle numbers are essential to correctly identify the component required.

Vehicle identification number

Dodge

Plymouth

Fargo

DeSOT0

MARCAS REG IMS REG

(VIN)

The vehicle identification plate is attached to the driver’s door post and includes on it such information as vehicle make, model, VIN, maximum gross vehicle weight, etc.

GROSS VEHICLE WEIGHT (GVW) 1S TOTAL WEIGHT OF 4% CHRYSLER THE VEHICLE INCLUDING OPTIONS DRIVER. PASSENGERS Wa (onroanoe BODY & PAYLOAD. “SEE OPERATORS MANUAL PACKAGE FOR SPECIFIC EQUIPMENT REQUIRED FOR,A GIVEN GVW RATING WARRANTY VOID IF ANY RATINGS ARE EXCEEDED FOR THE ACTUAL

Equipment identification plate The equipment identification plate contains information regarding the vehicle: model, wheel base, VIN (vehicle identification number), TON (order number) and all production or special equipment on the vehicle when it was shipped from the factory. This plate is located on the front surface of the air conditioning or heater housing.

US PAT OFF

NO} 0)ol

This very important identification number is located on a plate attached to the driver’s door post. The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certificate of Title and Registration. It contains valuable information such as where and when the vehicle was manufactured, the model year and the body style (see illustration).

Vehicle identification plate

GVW

& GAWR

RATINGS

SAFETY CERTIFICATION LABEL

OF

THIS VEHICLE

SEE

THE

MADE

Vehicle identification number plate

Vehicle safety certification label The vehicle safety certification label is attached to the ‘’B’’ post or

lock pillar. This label reflects the date of manufacture, Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) front, Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) rear and Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) (see illustration). A Month-Day-Hour (MDH) number is included on this label and indicates the month, day and hour of manufacture.

@

Safety certification label

IN

USA

©

Vehicle identification numbers

7

avy

225 cubic inch engine identification number location (this one is at the rear of the engine, under the number 6 plug)

Early model 318/360 cubic inch engine identification number location

DENTIFICATION PAD V6 and late model 318/360 cubic inch V8 engine identification number location

Engine identification number (EIN) All engines are assigned an engine identification number. On the 225 cubic inch six-cylinder engine, the EIN is on a pad located on the right side of the block, below the number six spark plug or the number one spark plug (depending on model year) (see illustration).

On 318 and 360 cubic inch engines the EIN is either stamped into the left front of the block, below the head, or on a pad located on the right side of the block, to the rear of the engine mount (see illustrations). On 400 cubic inch engines the EIN is on the right side of the block

ye sft

Gen Vis 440 cubic inch engine identification number location

next to the distributor (see illustration). On 440 cubic inch engines the EIN is stamped on the top of the block next to the rocker arm cover (see illustration).

Buying parts Replacement parts are available from many sources, which generally fall into one of two categories — authorized dealer parts departments and independent retail auto parts stores. Our advice concerning these parts is as follows: Retail auto parts stores: Good auto parts stores will stock frequently needed components which wear out relatively fast, such as clutch components, exhaust systems, brake parts, tune-up parts, etc. These stores often supply new or reconditioned parts on an exchange basis, which can save a considerable amount of money. Discount auto parts stores are often very good places to buy materials and parts needed for general vehicle maintenance such as oil, grease, filters, spark plugs, belts, touch-up paint, bulbs, etc. They

also usually sell tools and general accessories, have convenient hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home. Authorized dealer parts department: This is the best source for parts which are unique to the vehicle and not generally available elsewhere (such as major engine parts, transmission parts, trim pieces, etc.). Warranty information: |f the vehicle is still covered under warranty, be sure that any replacement parts purchased — regardless of the source — do not invalidate the warranty!

To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, have engine and chassis numbers available and, if possible, take the old parts along for positive identification.

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Maintenance

techniques

There are a number of techniques involved in maintenance and that will be referred to throughout this manual. Application of techniques will enable the home mechanic to be more efficient, organized and capable of performing the various tasks properly, will ensure that the repair job is thorough and complete.

repair these better which

Fasteners Fasteners are nuts, bolts, studs and screws used to hold two or more parts together. There are a few things to keep in mind when working with fasteners. Almost all of them use a locking device of some type, either a lockwasher, locknut, locking tab or thread adhesive. All threaded fasteners should be clean and straight, with undamaged threads and undamaged corners on the hex head where the wrench fits. Develop the habit of replacing all damaged nuts and bolts with new ones. Special locknuts with nylon or fiber inserts can only be used

once. If they are removed, they lose their locking ability and must be replaced with new ones. Rusted nuts and bolts should be treated with a penetrating fluid to ease removal and prevent breakage. Some mechanics use turpentine in a spout-type oil can, which works quite well. After applying the rust penetrant, let it work for a few minutes before trying to loosen the nut or bolt. Badly rusted fasteners may have to be chiseled or sawed

off or removed with a special nut breaker, available at tool stores. If a bolt or stud breaks off in an assembly, it can be drilled and removed with a special tool commonly available for this purpose. Most automotive machine shops can perform this task, as well as other repair procedures, such as the repair of threaded holes that have been stripped

out. Flat washers and lockwashers, when removed from an assembly, should always be replaced exactly as removed. Replace any damaged washers with new ones. Never use a lockwasher on any soft metal surface (such as aluminum), thin sheet metal or plastic.

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Fastener sizes For a number of reasons, automobile manufacturers are making wider and wider use of metric fasteners. Therefore, it is important to be able to tell the difference between standard (sometimes called U.S. or SAE) and metric hardware, since they cannot be interchanged. All bolts, whether standard or metric, are sized according to diameter, thread pitch and length. For example, a standard 1/2 — 13 x 1 bolt is 1/2 inch in diameter, has 13 threads per inch and is 1 inch long. An M12 — 1.75 x 25 metric bolt is 12 mm in diameter, has a thread pitch of 1.75 mm (the distance between threads) and is 25 mm long. The two bolts are nearly identical, and easily confused, but they are not interchangeable. In addition to the differences in diameter, thread pitch and length, metric and standard bolts can also be distinguished by examining the bolt heads. To begin with, the distance across the flats on a standard bolt head is measured in inches, while the same dimension on a metric bolt is sized in millimeters (the same is true for nuts). As a result, a

Grade

standard wrench should not be used on a metric bolt and a metric wrench should not be used on a standard bolt. Also, most standard bolts have slashes radiating out from the center of the head to denote the grade or strength of the bolt, which is an indication of the amount of torque that can be applied to it. The greater the number of slashes, the greater the strength of the bolt. Grades O through 5 are commonly used on automobiles. Metric bolts have a property class (grade) number, rather than a slash, molded into their heads to indicate bolt strength. In this case, the higher the number, the stronger the bolt. Property class numbers 8.8, 9.8 and 10.9 are commonly used on automobiles. Strength markings can also be used to distinguish standard hex nuts from metric hex nuts. Many standard nuts have dots stamped into one side, while metric nuts are marked with a number. The greater the number of dots, or the higher the number, the greater the strength of the nut. Metric studs are also marked on their ends according to property class (grade). Larger studs are numbered (the same as metric bolts),

1 or 2

Bolt strength markings (top — standard/SAE/USS;

Grade

9

Identification

Class

—

metric)

Identification

‘a

Hex Nut Property Class 9

Hex Nut Grade 5

bottom

Hex Nut Property

Hex Nut Grade 8

Class 10

6 Dots Standard hex nut strength markings

Arabic10 Metric hex nut strength markings

CLASS 9.8 Metric stud strength markings

CLASS 8.8

10

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

while smaller studs carry a geometric code to denote grade. It should be noted that many fasteners, especially Grades O through 2, have no distinguishing marks on them. When such is the case, the only way to determine whether it is standard or metric is to measure the thread pitch or compare it to a known fastener of the same size. Standard fasteners are often referred to as SAE, as opposed to metric. However, it should be noted that SAE technically refers to a non-metric fine thread fastener only. Coarse thread non-metric fasteners are referred to as USS sizes. Since fasteners of the same size (both standard and metric) may have different strength ratings, be sure to reinstall any bolts, studs or nuts removed from your vehicle in their original locations. Also, when replacing a fastener with a new one, make sure that the new one has a strength rating equal to or greater than the original.

Metric NMEOUe

tcl

Tightening sequences and procedures Most threaded fasteners should be tightened to a specific torque value (torque is the twisting force applied to a threaded component such as a nut or bolt). Overtightening the fastener can weaken it and cause it to break, while undertightening can cause it to eventually come loose. Bolts, screws and studs, depending on the material they are made of and their thread diameters, have specific torque values, many of which are noted in the Specifications at the beginning of each Chapter. Be sure to follow the torque recommendations closely. For fasteners not assigned a specific torque, a general torque value chart is presented here as a guide. These torque values are for dry (unlubricated) fasteners threaded into steel or cast iron (not aluminum). As was previously mentioned, the size and grade of a fastener determine the amount of torque that can safely be applied to it. The figures listed here are approximate

thread sizes coe ved. Sieh e ae ee

Ft-Ib 6 to 9 14 to 21 28 to 40 50 to 71 80 to 140

Nm/m 9to 12 19 to 28 38 to 54 68 to 96 109 to 154

es sh

5 to 8 12 to 18

7 to 10 17 to 24

ee, Peake

22 to) 33 25 to 35

30 to 44 34 to47

6 to 9 12 to 14 to 22 to 27 to 40 to 40 to 55 to

9to 12 17 to 24 19 to 27 30 to 43 37 to 51 55 to 74 55 to 81 75 to 108

ast iran Pears Behn vere ae:

TLS Pa ae ate cea

ae Re

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AE ZO Nor eae ieranain ose nen rans Jxches VOi ail Osea clade doy hitycena pA ae LS) Sera eM PRSein Pra teeeaoyh eG Sune a priate oo OK SHB=F Ghee ee ee A 3/ BR Zar A Ree oes nek eer FIV NA: oe a WING = G2OT aie. cla eanacierennte ee Ane 1S ere poe St, 3 ae a Sie

Standard G L T D

xf

Metric bolt dimensions/grade marks

(SAE and USS) bolt dimensions/grade marks

Grade marks (bolt strength) Length (in inches) Thread pitch (number of threads per inch) Nominal diameter (in inches)

18 20 32 38 55 60 80

P L T D

Property class (bolt strength) Length (in millimeters) Thread pitch (distance between Diameter

threads in millimeters)

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities for Grade 2 and Grade 3 fasteners. Higher grades can tolerate higher torque values. Fasteners laid out in a pattern, such as cylinder head bolts, oil pan bolts, differential cover bolts, etc., must be loosened or tightened in sequence to avoid warping the component. This sequence will normally be shown in the appropriate Chapter. If a specific pattern is not given, the following procedures can be used to prevent warping. Initially, the bolts or nuts should be assembled finger-tight only. Next, they should be tightened one full turn each, in a criss-cross or diagonal

pattern. After each one has been tightened one full turn, return to the first one and tighten them all one-half turn, following the same pattern. Finally, tighten each of them one-quarter turn at a time until each fastener has been tightened to the proper torque. To loosen and remove the fasteners, the procedure would be reversed.

11

can easily mar the gasket sealing surfaces of the parts, which must remain smooth. If prying is absolutely necessary, use an old broom handle, but keep in mind that extra clean up will be necessary if the wood splinters. After the parts are separated, the old gasket must be carefully scraped off and the gasket surfaces cleaned. Stubborn gasket material can be soaked with rust penetrant or treated with a special chemical to soften it so it can be easily scraped off. A scraper can be fashioned from a piece of copper tubing by flattening and sharpening one end. Copper is recommended because it is usually softer than the surfaces to be scraped, which reduces the chance of gouging the part. Some gaskets can be removed with a wire brush, but regardless of the method used, the mating surfaces must be left clean and smooth. If for some reason the gasket surface is gouged, then a gasket sealer thick enough to fill scratches will have to be used during reassembly of the com-

Component disassembly

ponents. For most applications, a non-drying (or semi-drying) gasket

Component disassembly should be done with care and purpose to help ensure that the parts go back together properly. Always keep track of the sequence in which parts are removed. Make note of special characteristics or marks on parts that can be installed more than one way, such as a grooved thrust washer on a shaft. It is a good idea to lay the disassembled parts out on a clean surface in the order that they were removed. It may also be helpful to make sketches or take instant photos of components before removal. When removing fasteners from a component, keep track of their locations. Sometimes threading a bolt back in a part, or putting the washers and nut back on a stud, can prevent mix-ups later. If nuts and bolts cannot be returned to their original locations, they should be kept in a compartmented box or a series of small boxes. A cupcake or muffin tin is ideal for this purpose, since each cavity can hold the bolts and nuts from a particular area (i.e. oil pan bolts, valve cover bolts, engine mount bolts, etc.). A pan of this type is especially helpful when working on assemblies with very small parts, such as the carburetor, alter-

sealer should be used.

nator, valve train or interior dash and trim pieces. The cavities can be

marked with paint or tape to identify the contents. Whenever wiring looms, harnesses or connectors are separated, it is a good idea to identify the two halves with numbered pieces of masking tape so they can be easily reconnected.

Gasket sealing surfaces Throughout any vehicle, gaskets are used to seal the mating surfaces between two parts and keep lubricants, fluids, vacuum or pressure contained in an assembly. Many times these gaskets are coated with a liquid or paste-type gasket sealing compound before assembly. Age, heat and pressure can sometimes cause the two parts to stick together so tightly that they

are very difficult to separate. Often, the assembly can be loosened by striking it with a soft-face hammer near the mating surfaces. A regular hammer can be used if a block of wood is placed between the hammer

Hose removal tips Warning: /f the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, do not disconnect any of the A/C hoses without first having the system depressurized by a dealer service department or an air conditioning specialist. Hose removal precautions closely parallel gasket removal precautions. Avoid scratching or gouging the surface that the hose mates against or the connection may leak. This is especially true for radiator hoses. Because of various chemical reactions, the rubber in hoses can bond itself to the metal spigot that the hose fits over. To remove a hose, first loosen the hose clamps that secure it to the spigot. Then, with slip-joint pliers, grab the hose at the clamp and rotate it around the spigot. Work it back and forth until it is completely free, then pull it off. Silicone or other lubricants will ease removal if they can be applied between the hose and the outside of the spigot. Apply the same lubricant to the inside of the hose and the outside of the spigot to simplify installation. As a last resort (and if the hose is to be replaced with a new one anyway), the rubber can be slit with a knife and the hose peeled from the spigot. If this must be done, be careful that the metal connection is not damaged. If a hose clamp is broken or damaged, do not reuse it. Wire-type clamps usually weaken with age, so it is a good idea to replace them with screw-type clamps whenever a hose is removed.

Tools A selection of good tools is a basic requirement for anyone who plans to maintain and repair his or her own vehicle. For the owner who has few tools, the initial investment might seem high, but when compared to the spiraling costs of professional auto maintenance and repair, it is a wise one.

and the part. Do not hammer on cast parts or parts that could be easily damaged. With any particularly stubborn part, always recheck to make sure that every fastener has been removed. Avoid using a screwdriver or bar to pry apart an assembly, as they

Micrometer

set

Dial indicator set

12

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Dial caliper

Compression gauge with spark plug hole adapter

Hydraulic lifter removal tool

Valve spring compressor

Ridge reamer

Piston ring groove cleaning tool

Ring removal/installation tool

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Ring compressor

Cylinder hone

Brake cylinder hone

Clutch plate alignment tool

13

Brake hold-down

spring tool

¢

Tap and die set

Battery post and cable cleaning tool

To help the owner decide which tools are needed to perform the tasks detailed in this manual, the following tool lists are offered: Maintenance and minor repair, Repair/overhaul and Special. The newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the maintenance and minor repair tool kit, which is adequate for the simpler jobs performed on a vehicle. Then, as confidence and experience grow, the owner can tackle more difficult tasks, buying additional tools as they are needed. Eventually the basic kit will be expanded into the repair and overhaul tool set. Over a period of time, the experienced do-ityourselfer will assemble a tool set complete enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the special category when it is felt that the expense is justified by the frequency of use.

Note: /f basic tune-ups are going to be part of routine maintenance, it will be necessary to purchase a good quality stroboscopic timing light and combination tachometer/dwell meter. Although they are included in the list of special tools, it is mentioned here because they are absolutely necessary for tuning most vehicles properly.

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit

Repair and overhaul tool set

The tools in this list should be considered the minimum required for performance of routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair work. We recommend the purchase of combination wrenches (box-end and open-end combined in one wrench). While more expensive than open end wrenches, they offer the advantages of both types of wrench.

These tools are essential for anyone who plans to perform major repairs and are in addition to those in the maintenance and minor repair tool kit. Included is a comprehensive set of sockets which, though expensive, are invaluable because of their versatility, especially when various extensions and drives are available. We recommend the

Oil filter wrench Funnel (medium size) Safety goggles Jackstands (2) Drain pan

1/2-inch drive over the 3/8-inch drive. Although the larger drive is bulky Combination wrench set (1/4-inch to 1 inch or Adjustable wrench, 8 inch Spark plug wrench with rubber insert Spark plug gap adjusting tool Feeler gauge set Brake bleeder wrench Standard screwdriver (5/16-inch x 6 inch) Phillips screwdriver (No. 2 x 6 inch) Combination pliers — 6 inch Hacksaw and assortment of blades Tire pressure gauge Grease gun Oil can Fine emery cloth Wire brush

6 mm

to 19 mm)

and more expensive, it has the capacity of accepting a very wide range of large sockets. Ideally, however, the mechanic should have a 3/8-inch drive set and a 1/2-inch drive set.

Socket set(s) Reversible ratchet Extension — 10 inch Universal joint Torque wrench (same size-drive as sockets) Ball peen hammer — 8 ounce Soft-face hammer (plastic/rubber) Standard screwdriver (1/4-inch x 6 inch) Standard screwdriver (stubby — 5/16-inch)

Phillips screwdriver (No. 3 x 8 inch) Phillips screwdriver (stubby — No. 2)

14

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Pliers — vise grip Pliers — lineman’s Pliers — needle nose

Pliers — snap-ring (internal and external) Cold chisel — 1/2-inch Scribe Scraper (made from flattened copper tubing) Centerpunch Pin punches (1/16, 1/8, 3/16-inch)

Stee/ rule/straightedge

—

12 inch

Allen wrench set (1/8 to 3/8-inch or A selection of files Wire brush (large) Jackstands (second set) Jack (scissor or hydraulic type)

4mm

to 10 mm)

on the other hand, extensive work is planned, it would be a good idea to purchase a modest tool set from one of the large retail chain stores. A set can usually be bought at a substantial savings over the individual tool prices, and they often come with a tool box. As additional tools are needed, add-on sets, individual tools and a larger tool box can be purchased to expand the tool selection. Building a tool set gradually allows the cost of the tools to be spread over a longer period of time and gives the mechanic the freedom to choose only those tools that will actually be used. Tool stores will often be the only source of some of the special tools that are needed, but regardless of where tools are bought, try to avoid cheap ones, especially when buying screwdrivers and sockets, because they won't last very long. The expense involved in replacing cheap tools will eventually be greater than the initial cost of quality tools.

Care and maintenance Note: Another tool which is often useful is an electric drill motor with a chuck capacity of 3/8-inch and a set of good quality drill bits.

Special tools The tools in this list include those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturer’s instructions. Unless these tools will be used frequently, it is not very economical to purchase many of them. A consideration would be to split the cost and use between yourself and a friend or friends. In addition, most of these tools can be obtained from a tool rental shop on a temporary basis. This list primarily contains only those tools and instruments widely available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer for distribution to dealer service departments. Occasionally, references to the manufacturer’s special tools are inluded in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the special tool is offered. However, sometimes there is no alternative to their use. Where this is the case, and the tool cannot be purchased or borrowed, the work should be turned over to the dealer service department or an automotive repair shop.

of tools

Good tools are expensive, so it makes sense to treat them with respect. Keep them clean and in usable condition and store them properly when not in use. Always wipe off any dirt, grease or metal chips before putting them away. Never leave tools lying around in the work area. Upon completion of a job, always check closely under the hood for tools that may have been left there so they won't get lost during a test drive. Some tools, such as screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches and sockets, can be hung on a panel mounted on the garage or workshop wall, while others should be kept in a tool box or tray. Measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc. must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged by weather or impact from other tools. When tools are used with care and stored properly, they will last a very long time. Even with the best of care, though, tools will wear out if used frequently. When a tool is damaged or worn out, replace it. Subsequent jobs will be safer and more enjoyable if you do.

Working facilities

Buying tools

Not to be overlooked when discussing tools is the workshop. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some sort of suitable work area is essential. It is understood, and appreciated, that many home mechanics do not have a good workshop or garage available, and end up removing an engine or doing major repairs outside. It is recommended, however, that the overhaul or repair be completed under the cover of a roof. A clean, flat workbench or table of comfortable working height is an absolute necessity. The workbench should be equipped with a vise that has a jaw opening of at least four inches. As mentioned previously, some clean, dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as the lubricants, fluids, cleaning solvents, etc. which will soon become necessary. Sometimes waste oil and fluids, drained from the engine or cooling system during normal maintenance or repairs, present a disposal problem. To avoid pouring them on the ground or into a sewage system, pour the used fluids into large containers, seal them with caps and take them to an authorized disposal site or recycling center. Plastic jugs, such as old antifreeze containers, are ideal for this purpose. Always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean rags available. Old towels are excellent for mopping up spills. Many mechanics use rolls of paper towels for most work because they are readily available and disposable. To help keep the area under the vehicle clean, a large cardboard box can be cut open and flattened to protect the garage or shop floor.

For the do-it-yourselfer who is just starting to get involved in vehicle maintenance and repair, there are a number of options available when purchasing tools. If maintenance and minor repair is the extent of the work to be done, the purchase of individual tools is satisfactory. If,

a fender to service something under the hood, always cover it with an old blanket or bedspread to protect the finish. Vinyl covered pads, made especially for this purpose, are available at auto parts stores.

Valve spring compressor

Piston ring groove cleaning tool Piston ring compressor Piston ring installation tool Cylinder compression gauge Cylinder ridge reamer Cylinder surfacing hone Cylinder bore gauge Micrometers

and/or dial calipers

Hydraulic lifter removal tool Balljoint separator Universal-type puller Impact screwdriver Dial indicator set

Stroboscopic

timing light (inductive pick-up)

Hand operated vacuum/pressure pump

Tachometer/dwell meter Universal electrical multimeter Cable hoist Brake spring removal and installation tools Floor jack

Whenever working over a painted surface, such as when leaning over

Booster battery (jump) starting Certain precautions must be observed when using a booster battery to jump start a vehicle.

a) b) c) d) e) f) g)

Before connecting the booster battery, make sure that the ignition switch is in the Off position. Turn off the lights, heater and other electrical loads. The eyes should be shielded. Safety goggles are a good idea. Make sure the booster battery is the same voltage as the dead one in the vehicle. The two vehicles must not touch each other. Make sure the transmission is in Neutral (manual transmission) or Park (automatic transmission). If the booster battery is not a maintenance-free type, remove the vent caps and lay a cloth over the vent holes.

Connect the red jumper cable to the positive (+) terminals of each battery. Connect one end of the black jumper cable to the negative (—) terminal of the booster battery. The other end of this cable should be connected to a good ground on the vehicle to be started, such as a bolt or bracket on the engine block. Use caution to insure that the cable will not come into contact with the fan, drivebelts or other moving parts of the engine. Start the engine using the booster battery, then, with the engine running at idle speed, disconnect the jumper cables in the reverse order of connection.

Make the booster battery cable connections in the numerical order shown (note that the negative cable of the booster battery is not attached to the negative terminal of the dead battery)

Jacking and towing Jacking The jack supplied with the vehicle should only be used for raising the vehicle when changing a tire or placing jackstands under the frame. Warning: Never work under the vehicle or start the engine while this Jack is being used as the only means of support. The vehicle should be on level ground with the wheels blocked and the transmission in Park (automatic) or Reverse (manual). If the tire is to be changed, pry off the hub cap (if equipped) using the tapered end of the lug wrench. If the wheel is being replaced, loosen the wheel nuts one-half turn and leave them in place until the wheel is raised off the ground. When using a conventional hydraulic jack, it may be positioned beneath the front axle crossmember or lower control arm, or beneath the rear axle adjacent to the spring U-bolts. If one side of the vehicle is to be raised, always use a jack front and rear; never use a single jack midway along the vehicle. After the wheel is changed, lower the vehicle, remove the jack and tighten the nuts (if loosened or removed) in a criss-cross sequence. Replace the hub cap (if equipped) by placing it in position and using the heel of your hand or a rubber mallet to seat it.

Towing The vehicle can be towed with all four wheels on the ground, provided that speeds do not exceed 30 mph and the distance is not over 15 miles, otherwise transmission damage can result. Towing equipment specifically designed for this purpose should be used and should be attached to the main structural members of the vehicle, not the bumper or brackets. Safety is a major consideration when towing and all applicable state and local laws must be obeyed. A safety chain system must be used for all towing. If the vehicle must be towed over 30 mph or farther than 15 miles, then the rear wheels must be lifted off the ground or the driveshaft must be disconnected. While towing the parking brake should be released and the transmission should be in Neutral. The steering must be unlocked (ignition switch in the Off position). Remember that power steering and power brakes will not work with the engine off.

Safety first! Regardless of how enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job at hand, take the time to ensure that your safety is not jeopardized. A moment's lack of attention can result in an accident, as can failure to observe certain simple safety precautions. The possibility of an accident will always exist, and the following points should not be

considered a comprehensive list of all dangers. Rather, they are intended to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safety conscious approach to all work you carry out on your vehicle.

Essential DOs and DON’Ts DON’T rely on a jack when working under the vehicle. Always use approved jackstands to support the weight of the vehicle and place them under the recommended lift or support points.

Fire Remember at all times that gasoline is highly flammable. Never smoke or have any kind of open flame around when working on a vehicle. But the risk does not end there. A spark caused by an electrical short circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, or even by static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite gasoline vapors, which in a confined space are highly explosive. Do not, under any circumstances, use gasoline for cleaning parts. Use an approved safety solvent.

Always disconnect the battery ground (—) cable at the battery before working on any part of the fuel system or electrical system. Never risk spilling fuel on a hot engine or exhaust component. It is strongly recommended that a fire extinguisher suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires be kept handy in the garage or workshop

at all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with water.

DON'T attempt to loosen extremely tight fasteners (i.e. wheel lug nuts) while the vehicle is on a jack — it may fall. DON'T start the engine without first making sure that the transmission is in Neutral (or Park where applicable) and the parking brake is set. DON'T remove the radiator cap from a hot cooling system — let it cool or cover it with a cloth and release the pressure gradually. DON’T attempt to drain the engine oil until you are sure it has cooled to the point that it will not burn you. DON’T_touch any part of the engine or exhaust system .until it has cooled sufficiently to avoid burns. DON'T siphon toxic liquids such as gasoline, antifreeze and brake fluid by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin. DON’T inhale brake lining dust — it is potentially

hazardous (see Asbestos below) DON'T allow spilled oil or grease to remain on the floor — wipe it up before someone slips on it. DON'T use loose fitting wrenches or other tools which may slip and cause injury. DON'T push on wrenches when loosening or tightening nuts or bolts. Always try to pull the wrench toward you. If the situation calls for pushing the wrench away, push with an open hand to avoid scraped knuckles if the wrench should slip.

DON’T attempt to lift a heavy component alone —

get someone

to

help you. DON’T rush or take unsafe shortcuts to finish a job. DON'T allow children or animals in or around the vehicle while you are working on it. DO wear eye protection when using power tools such as a drill, sander, bench grinder, etc. and when working under a vehicle.

DO keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving parts. DO make sure that any hoist used has a safe working load rating adequate for the job. DO get someone to check on you periodically when working alone on a vehicle. DO carry out work in a logical sequence and make sure that everything is correctly assembled and tightened. DO keep chemicals and fluids tightly capped and out of the reach of children and pets. DO remember that your vehicle's safety affects that of yourself and others.

If in doubt on any point, get professional advice.

Asbestos Certain friction, insulating, sealing, and other products — such as brake linings, brake bands, clutch linings, torque converters, gaskets, etc. — contain asbestos. Extreme care must be taken to avoid inhalation of dust from such products since it is hazardous to health. \f in doubt, assume that they do contain asbestos.

Fumes Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconscious-

ness and even death if inhaled to any extent. Gasoline vapor falls into this category, as do the vapors from some cleaning solvents. Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated area. When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions on the container carefully. Never use materials from unmarked containers.

Never run the engine in an enclosed space, such as a garage. Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide, which is extremely poisonous. If you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air, or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the work area. If you are fortunate enough to have the use of an inspection pit, never drain or pour gasoline and never run the engine while the vehicle is over the pit. The fumes, being heavier than air, will concentrate in the pit with possibly lethal results.

The battery Never create a spark or allow a bare light bulb near a battery. They normally give off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive. Always disconnect the battery ground (—) cable at the battery before working on the fuel or electrical systems. If possible, loosen the filler caps or cover when charging the battery from an external source (this does not apply to sealed or maintenancefree batteries). Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery may burst. Take care when adding water to a non maintenance-free battery and when carrying a battery. The electrolyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be allowed to contact clothing or skin. Always wear eye protection when cleaning the battery to prevent the caustic deposits from entering your eyes.

Household current When using an electric power tool, inspection light, etc., which operates on household current, always make sure that the tool is correctly connected to its plug and that, where necessary, it is properly grounded. Do not use such items in damp conditions and, again, do not create a spark or apply excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel vapor.

Secondary ignition system voltage A severe electric shock can result from touching certain parts of the ignition system (such as the spark plug wires) when the engine is running or being cranked, particularly if components are damp or the insulation is defective. In the case of an electronic ignition system, the secondary system voltage is much higher and could prove fatal.

Automotive

chemicals

A number of automotive chemicals and lubricants are available for use during vehicle maintenance and repair. They include a wide variety

and lubricants is used for mounting HEI ignition modules where heat be transferred away from the module.

it is essential that

of products ranging from cleaning solvents and degreasers to lubricants and protective sprays for rubber, plastic and vinyl.

Sealants

Cleaners

RTV sealant is one of the most widely used gasket compounds. Made from silicone, RTV is air curing, it seals, bonds, waterproofs, fills surface

Carburetor cleaner and choke cleaner is a strong solvent for gum, varnish and carbon. Most carburetor cleaners leave a dry-type lubricant film which will not harden or gum up. Because of this film it is not

recommended for use on electrical components. Brake system cleaner is used to remove grease and brake fluid from the brake system where clean surfaces are absolutely necessary. It leaves no residue and often eliminates brake squeal caused by contaminants. Electrical cleaner removes oxidation, corrosion and carbon deposits from electrical contacts, restoring full current flow. It can also be used to clean spark plugs, carburetor jets, voltage regulators and other parts where an oil-free surface is desired. Demoisturants remove water and moisture from electrical components such as alternators, voltage regulators, electrical connectors and fuse blocks. It is non-conductive, non-corrosive and non-flammable. Degreasers are heavy-duty solvents used to remove grease from the outside of the engine and from chassis components. They can be sprayed or brushed on, and, depending on the type, are rinsed off either with water or solvent.

Lubricants Motor oil is the lubricant formulated for use in engines. It normally contains a wide variety of additives to prevent corrosion and reduce foaming and wear. Motor oil comes in various weights (viscosity ratings) from 5 to 80. The recommended weight of the oil depends on the season, temperature and the demands on the engine. Light oil is used in cold climates and under light load conditions. Heavy oil is used in hot climates and where high loads are encountered. Multiviscosity oils are designed to have characteristics of both light and heavy oils and are available in a number of weights from 5W-20 to

20W-50. Gear oil is designed to be used in differentials, manual transaxles and other areas where high-temperature lubrication is required. Chassis and wheel bearing grease is a heavy grease used where increased loads and friction are encountered, such as for wheel bearings, balljoints, tie rod ends and universal joints. High temperature wheel bearing grease is designed to withstand the extreme temperatures encountered by wheel bearings in disc brake equipped vehicles. It usually contains molybdenun disulfide (moly), which is a dry-type lubricant. White grease is a heavy grease for metal to metal applications where water is a problem. White grease stays soft under both low and high temperatures (usually from —100°F to +190°F), and will not wash off or dilute in the presence of water. Assembly lube is a special extreme pressure lubricant, usually containing moly, used to lubricate high-load parts such as main and rod bearings and cam lobes for initial start-up of a new engine. The assembly lube lubricates the parts without, being squeezed out or washed away until the engine oiling system begins to function. Silicone lubricants are used to protect rubber, plastic, vinyl and nylon parts.

Graphite /ubricants are used where oils cannot be used due to contamination problems, such as in locks. The dry graphite will lubricate metal parts while remaining uncontaminated by dirt, water, oil or acids. It is electrically conductive and will not foul electrical contacts in locks such as the ignition switch. Moly penetrants \oosen and lubricate frozen, rusted and corroded fasteners and prevent future rusting or freezing. Heat-sink grease is a special electrically non-conductive grease that

irregularities, remains flexible, doesn’t shrink, is relatively easy to remove, and is used as a supplementary sealer with almost all low and medium temperature gaskets.

Anaerobic sealant is much like RTV in that it can be used either to seal gaskets or to form gaskets by itself. It remains flexible, is solvent resistant and fills surface imperfections. The difference between an anaerobic sealant and an RT V-type sealant is in the curing. RTV cures when exposed to air, while an anaerobic sealant cures only in the absence of air. This means that an anaerobic sealant cures only after the assembly of parts, sealing them together. Thread and pipe sealant is used for sealing hydraulic and pneumatic fittings and vacuum lines. It is usually made from a teflon compound, and comes in a spray, a paint-on liquid and as a wrap-around tape.

Chemicals Anti-seize compound prevents seizing, galling, cold welding, rust and corrosion in fasteners. High temperature anti-seize, usually made with copper and graphite lubricants, is used for exhaust system and manifold bolts. Anaerobic locking compounds are used to keep fasteners from vibrating or working loose, and cure only after installation, in the

absence of air. Medium strength locking compound is used for small nuts, bolts and screws that you expect to be removing later. High strength locking compound is for large nuts, bolts and studs which you don’t intend to be removing on a regular basis. Oil additives

range

from

viscosity

index

treatments that claim to reduce internal noted that most oil manufacturers caution their oils. Gas additives perform several functions, makeup. They usually contain solvents

improvers

to chemical

engine friction. It should be against using additives with

depending on their chemical that help dissolve gum and varnish that build up on carburetor and intake parts. They also serve to break down carbon deposits that form on the inside surfaces of the combustion chambers. Some additives contain upper cylinder lubricants for valves and piston rings, and others chemicals to remove condensation from the gas tank.

Miscellaneous Brake fluid is specially formulated hydraulic fluid that can withstand the heat and pressure encountered in brake systems. Care must be taken that this fluid does not come in contact with painted surfaces or plastics. An opened container should always be resealed to prevent contamination by water or dirt. Weatherstrip adhesive is used to bond weatherstripping around doors, windows and trunk lids. It is sometimes used to attach trim pieces. Undercoating is a petroleum-based tar-like substance that is designed to protect metal surfaces on the underside of the vehicle from corrosion. It also acts as a sound-deadening agent by insulating the bottom of the vehicle. Waxes andpolishes are used to help protect painted and plated surfaces from the weather. Different types of paint may require the use of different types of wax and polish. Some polishes utilize a chemical or abrasive cleaner to help remove the top layer of oxidized (dull) paint on older vehicles. In recent years many non-wax polishes that contain

a wide variety of chemicals such as polymers and silicones have been introduced. These non-wax polishes are usually easier to apply and last longer than conventional waxes and polishes.

Conversion

factors

Length (distance) 25.4 0.305 1.609

Inches (in) Feet (ft) Miles

0.0394 3.281 0.621

X X

Millimetres (mm) Metres (m) Kilometres (km)

Inches (in) Feet (ft) Miles

Volume (capacity) Cubic inches (cu in; in’) Imperial pints (Imp pt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) US quarts (US qt) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) Imperial gallons (Imp gal)

US gallons (US gal)

OK &< KK x

16.387 0.568 AS? 1.201 0.946 4.546 1.201 3.785

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F38-14VT* F-14BK/RD

H25-12LG

COLOR CODE BLACK BROWN DARK BLUE LIGHT BLUE DARK GREEN LIGHT GREEN ORANGE PINK RED TAN VIOLET GRAY WHITE YELLOW WIRES WITH TRACERS TYPICAL EXAMPLES BLACK WIRE WITH WHITE TRACER YELLOW WIRE WITH BLACK TRACER

FIA-20RD* FI-14RD

B14-18BK

L11-18BR

F1-14RD*

a

ears

Hens 7 SS

TY

O-18WT T10-18OR* H1-16DG/RD

Lay)

samerelb ||

—}———- aed) sy

B15B-18OR/WT

hy

PU

= =—————

F-14BK/RD-—————

seo ——— ee aes

FIA-20R

atta eal a Vastra nian

T10-18OR*

D12B-18YL LJ it sti: JIOA-14RD PIDeAeLe: C/eiNiniGaN t+++ JIOA RD J2B-12RD/BK +4 EIaEIESPasig J2B-12RD/BK ————_ V3 1SBR/YLo J1B-14OR en pt tt y1B-12PK © ——__ J1B-12PK* V3-18BR/YL ne F38-14VT* . V6-18VT

¥ALSO INDICATES

A WIRE WITH TRACER

oa

R6E-12BK

pil

pe

al

18DB*

A1-20RD

8 16C-1808"

Fie Laan

pegs

208 ——

H1-16DG/RD

A CZOR D ae

D12B-18YL D13B-18LG

L11-18BR

B14-18BK

Heater and bulkhead disconnect block —

1983 models

270 HEATER CONTROL LAMP

J2B- 12RD/ BK

zoek

WINDSHIELD

-

Ly

sae

GID20WT*

2-12BK/RD

F52A-18OR

Beak

X12-20RD/BK

melt

uk

F9-16PK— 1G-18WT*—

ae Se ae ORANGE MOLD\| | froel | 1T “a F52B-18OR 523-180 a a g0R| | }|S1A-zOWT®

G1J-18WT/BK

anes CURB

Seah TT PROVISION ———GIK-20WT/BK

—O-18WT

AUXILIARY HEATER

—_.—-

AND A/C PROVISION YELLOW MOLD R3-16LG/BK—>C—9

4H

POROE 128)

BESS

ra

a=

F52-18OR

5 Rake Se: = ST

Berle

a

FOOT

SWITCH

Acc

TOMO

ei =a

aig

|-20BK ae R3-16LG* RELAY

i FA9A-16PK

PRee yl

Rig

J)]

BATTERY FEED A

aoe]

L10-18BR—

REP

D15-18DG— DI4-YL*—

FA49C18PK

F39-160B

F49B-18PK

C

eh Ge

D12B-18YL

ee

PS

ES Ss ES

Esa alla

D13B-18LG DMs

L11-18BN

AP

F47-16RD* —

pee al

—Fas-16PK| “US )”switc

TURN SIGNAL

“3

mm ptcre

STOP LAMP

asieorwr

FLASHER

HORN

L20-18TIN—

F52H-18OR

V3-18BR/YL j Saag 12 vaneee -12PK* He ps

RSS

T10-180R*—

See ceF9A-16PK F11-18BK* Siar WARNING saat ; FLASHER

Barer: cian

—B16C-18DB/WT

R

oe

pT

no Sac

FIIC-

+-—}—18BK/WT—

eso——]or8-18wT*—

HT

a i La

B15A-18OR/WT

J10A-14RD

:

poni- 28k |||

SS

LT eae pis

R3A-16LG*

UNUSED

Anat

oa eee

aech

SeSaqays

hia

1 FEED

wo

ie

Et I 208K— F52GGit 18OR 1gWT* a a ae eos

ini fn. WMSti |

LeiiMeR elie

———

GIE-16WT*r—

RADIO FEED

ERIEeas

a

B16A-18DB2—— G1-16WT*

|| GI1E-20WT*

mele

F52F-18OR

WMSSesSs —

Q1B-14LB

ACCESSORY 1-14BK— ACCESSORY

Bee ae aS

:

IGNITION-14DB ——

740)

thee O2-121878K

1-12RD———

GROU CD-BATTERY 2-12PK/BK—

71B-12PKe

RPT stele pete rele] g

CEI it 1008 V3-18BR/YL BV

BATTERY

—

D13B-18LG— D12B-18YL— £3-18RD—

H10-18DG* ——

F49B-18PK — D14-18YL* —— L11-18BR— D15-180G eae F12-18LB* — LO: BR anne BY 421K 814-1 —____?_?_?___ BBK EE

Fuse block, ignition switch, auxiliary wiring systems

—

1983 models

271 BATTERY 1}-12RD BATTERY 2-12PK/BK

|

a

IGNITION SWITCH

START-14YL

eae

Y4-20DG/YL

G1H-18WT*

SEAT BELT BUZZER

artes ACCESSORY

BI6A-

Sores

1-14BK

| ota

IGNITION-14DB

GIG-18wT"

v4.

Y2-20YL

ai

F11D-18BK*

a! HAND BRAKE LAMP SWITCH

OIL ee

Pei ewit wy a INSTRUMENT CLUSTER GROUND ~GIE-16WT*—=)_ CIGAR LIGHTER GROUND

OR GAUG

\

ne 86 ie na Thy

—F9-16PK——C} CIGAR LIGHTER FEED Se WT 1D 18BK* G1D-20WT* F11B-18BK* =e ee ; TEMPERATURE G1A-18WT*

33

A “

AMMETER | _INSTRUMENT CLUSTER

seater

PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD

INSTRUMENT

GAUGE

RIGHT ! TURN SIGNAL ||HIGH BEAM

GIF-18WT/BK B16-18DB*

F12-18LB*

LEFT

F1A-20RD*

TURN SIGNAL

F11A-18BK* G1B-18WT/BK

VOLTAGE

LIMITER

D6D-183WT —{pD Cite

HEADLAMP SWITCH

HORN RING

HORN SWITCH

18DG HEADLAMP SWITCH TITLE LAMP LI0A-18BR

D6D-18WT D6B- 18WT DOME LAMP GROUND

(- STOP LAMP-18WT RIGHT REAR-18DG LEFT REAR-18YL TURN SIG FLASHER-18RD HAZARD FLASHER-18DB RIGHT FRONT-18LG H10-

:

!H10-180G* |

—FA49B-18PK —

STEERING COLUMN

—L11-18BR See ican 0 —B14B-18BK

Ovl

WARNING

SWITCH

TURN SIGNAL SWITCH

DISCONNECT

—D6A-18WT AT

HAZARD

LEFT FRONT-18YL

HORN-18D

Wes IKBS

F49B-18PK

Be

loo} doo ISOC ris Saann® | 18k or

Instrument cluster, steering column and switches —

D6C-18WT————— D14-18YL*

F12-18LB*

B14-18BK

1983 models

D15-18DG L10-18BR

272

SIDE MARKER

LAMP

:

ag TAIL, STOP AND TURN SIGNAL LAMP

L10E-18BR L10B-18BR D15-18DG B14B-18BK

18BR 18RD 18BK BACK-UP LAMP

GROUND C

16BK FRONT DOME LAMP

18BK 18BR

4 :

REAR DOME LAMP

18BK 18BR

F49A-18PK: D6A-18WT

L10D-18BR

BACK-UP LAMP TAIL, STOP AND TURN SIGNAL LAMP

_ LIOB-18BR a

18L Ae 1

B14A-18BK

+~9

ian

LI0D-18BR 8

,

18BK

Biri 18BR

L10C-18BR LI0A-18BR —D6C-18WT —————F-49B-18PK —D14-18YL*

BOG I —F12-18LB ——————10-18BR —B14B-18BK

:

LICENSE LAMP abe

FUEL TANK SENDING UNIT

ss (@>,, it

SIDE MARKER

ic ae

:

Interior lights, fuel tank and rear lights —

1983 models

the

LAMP

: kp

273 Al 6RD ———-4__

@ NOTE IOGA- STANDARD ALTERNATOR (60 AMP) 6 GA- 100 AMP ALTERNATOR

TO STARTER MOTOR (SEE PG 5 )

(REAR OF

BATTERY)

LACK

A3 200R

|_f-

Ag

68K

BATTERY

(LEFT FRONT OF ENGINE)

Ag oe

FUSIBLE LINK HYPALON WIRE

ENGINE GROUND (LEFT FRONT

|

OF ENGINE)

AS VAI

TO HAZARD

ne

I

100 AMP Pa e* RG 6BK -~—~

FLASHER FUSE (SEE PG 26)

SS

NATURAL

923

/

( NATURAL

ORs eK === (CENTER OF DASH PANEL)

H

| {-+— R6 IOBK

= BODY GROUND (LEFT YOKE FRONT OF BATTERY)

Je oak 6BK 100 AMP ALTERNATOR

WITH 100 AMP ALTERNATOR ONLY ELECTRONIC SPARK ADVANCE

=

STANDARD

eon

(RIGHT FRONT

ALTERNATOR OF ENGINE) GROUND — WITH 100 AMP 100 AMP ALTERNATOR .ALTERNATOR (ELECTRONIC CONTROL GROUND UNIT ONLY)

zi Sane

2

1408

TO

(SEE PG 5)

J3 14PK

a

3 14PK

4 (SEE PG 6)

J3 14PK

J2 1408

J5 I8BK/YL¢

J6 ISBR/WTe J7 18GY a

S

4

18L6

J7 I8GY

v2 1408

J5 I8BK/YLe

J6 I8BRe

BLACK (REAR OF ENGINE) IGNITION COIL (REAR OF ENGINE) '

18BK

ELECTRONIC IGNITION CONTROL UNIT (CENTER OF DASH PANEL)

16BK

DISTRIBUTOR (REAR OF ENGINE) J4 18LG

Electronic Control Unit (Federal, California and Canada) 318/360-V8

—

1986 models

4 :

281

OIL PRESSURE SWITCH (REAR OF ENGINE)

ELECTRIC CHOKE CONTROL

BLACK

>a 0 —P] © -

Rtv

TO OIL LIGHT (SEE PG 34)

‘ai

mane Ne: esa

CG: 206Y

(RIGHT REAR OF ENGINE)

BLACK

:

J2 1408

=

14RD

GRAY (RIGHT SIDE OF CARBURETOR)

BLACK v2 1408 Oe oay 1408 (LEFT CENTER OF DASH PANEL)

be

ELECTRIC CHOKE (RIGHT SIDE OF CARBURETOR)

NATURAL Bere =

re I8TN

44 I8LG

_DECELERATION THROTTLE CONTROL SOLENOID (LEFT SIDE OF CARBURETOR)

NOT REQUIRED FOR FEDERAL

ELECTRONIC SPEED SWITCH (LEFT CENTER

OF DASH PANEL)

J4 I8LG

Electronic Control Unit (Federal,

California and Canada) 318/360-V8

—

1986 models

282

S——

TO FOOT DIMMER SWITCH (SEE PG 24)

S—— L3 I4RD/ors

TO PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD (SEE PG 56) TO TURN SIGNAL SWITCH (SEE PG 27) TO PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD (SEE PG 56) TO REAR LIGHTING (SEE PG 53,54)

TO HEADLAMP SWITCH (SEE PG 24)

4 levt/wis

S—— L3 I6rD/ors S——— 05 18™N S——— 5 18™N

or

>— L7 I8BK/YL®

PARK & TURN SIGNAL LAMP (SEE P6 21)

=

TO TURN SIGNAL SWITCH

\——--__——.

(SEE PG 27)

(LEFT UPPER INSTRUMENT PANEL ABOVE PARK BRAKE)

53leerie

|$____________________ 7 isprvv*

B2 I8VT/BKe

L7 188K D7 I8BR/RD* B2 I6VT/BKe

(AT LEFT TAIL LAMP)

(eax

(RIGHT REAR FLOOR PAN) L7 188K

l7 I8BK

08 18BR

x2 l8BK/WTe

B2 ISBK/VTs

x2 I8BK/WTe L7 leBK

LEFT SIDE

MARKER

Lave

LEFT TAIL STOP

AND TURN

LAMP

LEFT BACK-UP

BLACK

Lae

L7 188K

(OUTSIDE-RIGHT REAR UNDERBODY)

Rear lighting —

1986 models

285

—f

TO STARTER RELAY (SEE P6 5)

>— BI ewT de

Bi iSWT

$4 I8BR YLe

ii

@ gy (SEE P6 29)

Oo.

MANUAL TRANSMISSION

39 18BK

(CENTER DASH PANEL)

/ /

/

/

/

Bi isewr ——_—~< BI GWT B2 18VT:

res! LAMP SWITCH

B2 I8VT/BKe —< (REAR OF ENGINE)

BLACK

(ON TRANSMISSION)

L7 168K D7 I6BR/RDs B2 I6VT/BKe

BLACK (AT RIGHT TAIL LAMP)

B2 IGBK/VT*

7 188K

18BR

x2 I8BK/WTs

RIGHT

LICENSE LAMP (ON BUMPER) L7 168K

Rear lighting —

1986 models

L7 188K

x2 1I8BK/WTs

RIGHT

RIGHT

BACK-UP

TAIL STOP

Lamp

AND TURN

MARKER

SIDE

Lamp

Lae

286

:

RQ 6BKX

RQ 6BKX TO ENGINE CONTROLLER CAVITY 1-41

TO AUTO SHUT

GROUND REAR OF ENGINE

Jl 12R0 —S

DOWN RELAY (SEE SH 8)

MODULE (SEE SH 9)

SWITCH (SEE SH 6)

Jl ei

Ji ee

Ji ‘SRD

TO IGNITION

Jl 120R TO STARTER MOTOR -—Al 6RD (SEE SH 5)

vil 22uT FUSIBLE LINK HYPALON WIRE

‘ aah

Al LORD RED

BLACK

ae

Et

SO CRSA

Ag

6BK

Al 6BK

HH

coeeacmen!

BATTERY

(LEFT FRONT

TO STARTER

RELAY

AS

(SEE SH 5

14RD

=ax

a GROUND

(LEFT YOKE

(SEEOEM SH 5)~ a 5

14BR

ky

Beit

(=) #43

Alt 18RD “9

TO STARTER

A BATTERY)

((

|

OF ENGINE)

=> ENGINE GROUND (LEFT FRONT OF ENGINE)

CAVITY 2 LEFT

TO PRINTED

AMMETER

CIRCUIT BOARD SEE SH 33)

!4R0

. 12RD

CAVITY 1

ip

4

R16

14BR

BLACK

arex

A3 16PK

FUSIBLE LINK (LEFT SIDE COWL PANEL)

2biT A3_ 16PK

i :

:

(e) «+ Re

(5) «23 ———seLice Lm 1ePk—C@@+))— peas | C13 12BK/ROX

CUTOUT RELAY

200R

(SEE SH 5S)

TO HEATED

FUSIBLE LINK (HYPALON WIRE)

7

(LEFT SIDE COWL PANEL)

REAR WINDOW

cl

(SEE SH 32)

#49

B7

18GY

\

R6 6BK SHUNT ——Al 12R0 R16 20BK

Jl 200R —-@—vl 12RD —)}>———— 1 12RD —J

SWITCH

(5) «50

aN

J10 12PKX—))}————J10_ (s) +:

L1 186Y —-@—L1

(SEE SH 6)

12PK/BKxJ,

12R0x—)>—______

Waeteie tae

eo FUSIBLE LINK (HYPALON WIRE)

TO IGNITION

FUSE #6 (20 AMP)

—L1

WITCH I (SEE SH 21) |~}——————————L_ Charging system wiring diagram

(SEE SH 45)

WTX

12RD/WTX

12RD /WT

— fuel injected models (2 of 2)

L1 12RD/WTxX

288

N11

18PK

HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR (CENTER OF ENGINE ON EXHAUST MANIFOLD)

Z1 18WT NS 186Y (5.2L & 5.9L ONLY)

K7 180R/DBX KB 20VTX X NS 18BK/LB xX

| |

Z1 16D6/BKx NS 18BK/LBX

| |!

(TOP. OF THROTTLE BODY INJECTOR)

3.91 ENGINE ONLY eee SH 8) [wow sn ws] wn ee aa, faba, 1 iw

[eS TG

| |

1

\_ \,

OXYGEN SENSOR OR

41 '

ees BU ees «gE Se JI

perk

BLACK

JS

| |

ENGINE

LEFT FRONT OF ENGINE

N11 18BK/D6x

p|o o on BLACK

THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR Z1 16D6/BKk*

14BK

ee NS 18BK/LBx ar :

Ge gar far aes iat vie Z1 16DG/BKx

|

Y12 18TN

: | | Ui geek ba

S——ke 2ovtx

Z1 16DG/BK x ae rah aa

INJECTOR #2

SPLICE (SEE SH 10) fe

TO TRANSMISSION S—v9 14BK WIRING (SEE SH 16)

et ie SaTT TO THROTTLE

KICKER MOTOR

(SEE SH 9) mh

GROUND

Jg S

=

ie

N45)

le56e2-98

a7 3 14BK

1gip

16BKx K5

ibaa 16BKxX

22 10Mis23

200B YLK

DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR

py 1 4pB

R K9 a0 DK19 re riste 20DB

| 1806

BKx

x

|

y12 18TN i,

teu

ug 148K

18BKx 5,

INJECTOR #1 TO A/C AND HEATER STsitM (SEE SH 40)

J. C20 OR x

eeZ1 ee 16D6/BK

ie

02-2

1-5

SINGLE MODULE ENGINE CONTROLLER SMEC (CENTER OF DASH PANEL)

ug

si

240

yg RDX 16BK

RO*

ne bee

i

gi2aT

N23 206K DBx DK21

| it

LVS

(W516) ks22

f=58)

Nesniesst

FOR 14 AND 60 WAY SINGLE MODULE ENGINE CONTROLLER CONNECTORS (SEE SH 51,52)

Ignition system wiring diagram — fuel injected models (1 of 4)

est

:

‘

a

289

TO FUEL TANK ——_J pee ee

Z1 14D6/BKk

ral 1606 BKx

SPLICE (SEE SH 6)

AUTO

SHUT DOWN RELAY

|

@

C7) H Eee SUE SEAL || nek

TO ALTERNATOR (SEE SH 4)

J2 140B K1 20PKx | GREEN SEAL! “y-==-1

Cci.)

1408

|

Du2

140B

Ki)

4 J2

___.__

1408

DK19 200B/YL x

J2

ik

/

/ J

TRANSMISSION

OE

gees)

1

y

;7

TO

;

1606

/ f

)

SHUT. DOWN

RELAY

Pies Toad |Saal

one

OR

6

Rae

oe

:

©

IGNITION

©

( ERR A F

PURGE

14RD

K16 20VT

ENGINE)

EGR

18DBx K14 por Yt v2 18DBx 1408 | To CHARGING yas a

21 1606

BKX

SYSTEM

K1 20PKX it

56 206Y

YLX

R31 2006

Js

dong ORK 188K GYx ri i

(SEE SH 3) Wee 253 SINGLE MODULE

133) 72-81 5224 110 ENGINE CONTROLLER MEC (CENTER OF DASH PANEL)

o4 1-40 Lol4e2stlo2s2 FOR 14 AND 60 WAY SINGLE MODULE ENGINE (ores St CONNECTORS SEE SH 51,52)

Ignition system wiring diagram — fuel injected models (2 of 4)

i]

}ol REDSEAL_|

K14 18DBx K14

/Y

ie ott eee

1408 /

!

|

|

/ VACUUM {SOLENOIDS

SWITCHING

BKx

aa et aaa

290

Nl 18GY/RDX N2 18BRX

HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR (RIGHT OF ee ON EXHAUST PIPE

KS 18BKx N31

18VT

(3.9L ENGINE

ONLY) OXYGEN a

(CENTER

KICKER MOTOR

FOR 3.9

REAR OF ENGINE) Z1

ENGINE ONLY (SEE SH 9)

16DG6/BK

NS 18BK/LBX

KS 18BKK Hl

N2

N11

N31

«18VT

NI RD

NS 18BK/LBX

18BK/D0GxX J9 14BK

TO EMISSIONS MAINTENANCE REMINDER

(SEE SH 11)

T0SPLICE

ENGINE LAMP (SEE SH 26)

(SEE SH 7)

(SEE” si ey 16)

TO CHARGING SYSTEM (SEE SH 3)

PKX TO OVERDRIVE SWITCH

R3 18DG6

N31 NB 2008 2089 18VT —18BRX K15

K1S

(SEE SH 16)

Jit

i

16RD

U4 200R WTX

|

Be

(CENTER

erd3 eee

D40 18WT PK

K3 208K

FE sHis)

Ssh

628 20G6Y PKX

TO CHARGING SYSTEM (SEE SH 4)

TO AUTOMATIC ee etceike

SINGLE

#42 (e)

K3 20BK PKX

N2 18BRX

esky

TO STOP LAMP (SEE SH 18)

Loi el Nos

asd

eels

b= 41

CONTROLLER

OF DASH PANEL)

Ignition system wiring diagram

2514

1-59

pe 2 PKX

1-38

629 206Y PKX

1-29

FOR 14 AND 60 WAY SINGLE MODULE ENGINE CONTROLLER CONNECTORS (SEE SH 51,52)

— fuel injected models (3 of 4)

293

ee 118BK

| LBX

«1 8BK |

Seay)Y

pores

RDx| | | ! | | te gs: | |

Ee

(5.2L & 5.9L

ENGINE ONLY) THROTTLE BODY TEMPERATURE SENSOR

NS 20BK LBx

ae G7 20WT/OR

(ON THROTTLE BODY)

G7 20WT/ORX

NS 18BK/LBX

NS 18BK/LBX

NS 18BK/LBX

NS 18BK/LBx

NS 18BK LBx

NS

18BK

ne

DISTANCE SENSOR ON REAR OF TRANSMISSION)

ae

it

67 20WT ORK

NS

NS (SEE SH 7)

ee) ||US

oe oe BLACK

LBx

K8 20VT/WTX

K4 200G6/RDx Lvs 18BK/LBX

/

/

Kis 18BK RDX

RE

ENGINE

|

// COOLANT SENSOR 1NS 18BK/LBX | ¢ come eee

NS 18BK/LBX

K10 20TNX DISTRIBUTOR

ee

es ee ee

ee

|

| !

| KIO 20TNX a

es ee

ee

K13

se

es ee ee

=]

18BK/RDX N6 180R

N6 180R

N6. 180R

KIO. 20TNX

—NT 18GYx

oie

fe52

le3

Way

Yl! NS 20GY 20GY 18BK Wx WTX LBX

Ne2e

SINGLE MODULE ENGINE CONTROLLER SMEC (CENTER OF DASH PANEL)

Vas20

225)

lied

WTR I

Tesi

ORK I

l= 48

foyl

FOR 14 AND 60 WAY SINGLE MODULE ENGINE CONTROLLER CONNECTORS (SEE SH 51,52)

Ignition system wiring diagram — fuel injected models (4 of 4)

i|| |

|| | | | |

df HDId

3ONIYIII / EI

SOBKIaS

eNOILINDIE3 YOSNAS

YOLNGILSIA

: «

JUNLVaadW3L iNVesS

HDLIMS

Se

ANION] BA = XO3HD CE fant

auNssadd Fi BONIS ALadvS HDLIMS Si nt

YOSN3S — ONITDAD JONVISIG

YOLWNLOV (si) JOUYLNOD G33dS 3101

JILLOWHL

NOILISOd

YOSNaS

weiGeip Guim uondefu jeny Apog e304)

Jans

SYOLD3INI

TIOJINVW GNV 16'S 12'S

Peeler

TWuLlN4Nn

d31V4H N3JSAXO YOSN3S

WN XNVI-NI OD NOILINS! im

\Gy

AVI3U INOLND d/V ooh

ws)

ee

Be

SGION310S 3OUNd USISINVD FYNSSIYd = GNV ONIHOLIMS IV ‘YOR 20s:ALMIOSAV

IVNUSLTV

FJINGOW INIONA

sits

SSNIDON3)

AVIAN NMOd -LNHS OLNY esas

to YILYIANOD JINOYOL dN-1D01 : iwi

b

YINOYLNOD

#

A YOSN3S WNLvaadWwal —

Agoe JIWLOYHL

id

sass

AV134 YDOINN JILLOYH! LWVd

1001 Bev

JTONIS

292

293

G60 20GY/YLx

G60 20GY/YLX TO OIL LAMP (SEE SH 11)

@ ~ oD WeuUu

BOA (SEE SH 33)

66 206Y

(PLUG TOGETHER FOR OIL GAUGE ONLY)

©

YELLOW

(SEE SH 26) (CENTER OF DASH PANEL)

66 206Y

oiofal

BLACK

(CENTER OF DASH PANEL)

To IGNITION SWITCH (SEE SH 6) PS

if

pS BKX

206Y BKx

206Y YLx A

BKx 620

BLACK

18VT

YLX

OIL PRESSURE SENDING UNIT

AND SWITCH

:

\

===

\.

N

TEMPERATURE SENDING

[>| =

gine | PARK

SWITCH

ia SWITCH (LEFT SIDE BRAKE

G6 206Y

660

==

N AR

(OF

OS

\, | \

8

8 ee

ee

}

|

:

1

1

|

| 66 20cy 660206Y/YLX|

FRAME PANEL)

Oil pressure, coolant temperature and brake warning light wiring diagram — fuel injected models

294

G5 20DBx {+a

70} 9)

v2 1408 —————J

TO IGNITI N SWITCH

(ceevcu g

20DBx

TO ay, TO LICENSE

(See sH'8)

LAMP WRG

(SEE SH 47)

Z1 1406 BKx

+0 (8) RIGHT PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD (SEE SH 34)

seni YL

X2 18GY

X20 18GYxX

7 1406

'P

BK X

18GY

(REAR CANE RAIL)

X20

18GYx

X2 18GY X20 18GYx

(LEFT UPPER INSTUMENT

PANEL

i

ABOVE

BLACK

PARK BRAKE)

X2 | 0 186Y

penne nee Z1 1406/BKx |

kaa

X20

x

Z1 14DG/BKx

|

(RIGHT REAR FLOOR PAN)

Z1 14D6/BKx BLACK

a

186YxX

X2 16G6Y 64 18DB -

|

ee

64 18DB X20

18GY x ae —

64

18DB

FUEL TANK SENDING UNIT AND PUMP WITH EFI IGNITION

Z1

160G/BK x G4 18DB

Fuel pump and gauge wiring diagram

X2 16GY

— fuel injected models

: :

295

eS

ae

i ea

fuse # ; (30 AMP)

.

forte b-

| | | |

| |

lame

1306

A

Q20

C1 1806

12BK/RDx

——————J

TO are

i

(SEE SH 6)

TO AUXILIARY HEATER AND A/C (SEE SH 41,42)

1043 SPLICE (SEE SH 22) C20

; (GH

ia

| »—CE Niall

»—C5

C20

C7 BLACK 1206

er

1416

A/C BLOWER SWITCH (INSTRUMENT PANEL) | »—-C4

16DB/0Rx

12TN

3

C4 10TN