Haynes Dodge & Plymouth Vans 1971 to 1996 Automotive Repair Manual 1563921847, 9781563921841

Citation preview

piel=

PLYMOUTH‘ ai y

PANT) Co)ay]otive

Repa ir

0-3

Contents Introductory pages About this manual Introduction to the Dodge and Plymouth Vans Vehicle identification numbers Buying parts Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Jacking and towing

0-5 0-5 0-6 0-9 0-9 0-16

Booster battery (jump) starting Automotive chemicals and lubricants

0-17 0-18

Conversion factors Safety first! Troubleshooting

0-19 0-20 0-21

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

Chapter 2

PartA

Inline six-cylinder engine

Chapter 2

2A-1

PartB

V6 and V8 engines

Chapter 2

1-1

2B-1

Part C

General engine overhaul procedures

2C-1

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

Chapter 4

PartA

Fuel and exhaust systems - carbureted engines

Chapter 4

3-1

4A-1

4A

4B-1

4B

PartB

Fuel and exhaust systems - fuel-injected engines

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

5-1

Chapter 6 Emissions and engine control systems

Chapter 7

PartA

Manual transmission

Chapter 7

6-1

7TA-1

7A

7B-1

7B

PartB

Automatic transmission

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveline

8-1

Chapter 9 Brakes

9-1

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

10-1

Chapter 11 Body

11-1

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

12-1

Wiring diagrams

12-25 -

Index

IND-1

WRN

IND

Haynes mechanic, author and photographer with 1986 Dodge

Ram Van

0-5

About this manual Its purpose The purpose of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done, even if you choose to have it done by a dealer service department or a repair shop; it provides information and procedures for routine maintenance and servicing; and it offers diagnostic

and repair procedures to follow when trouble occurs. We hope you use the manual to tackle the work yourself. For many simpler jobs, doing it yourself may be quicker than arranging an appointment to get the vehicle into a shop and making the trips to leave it and pick it up. More importantly, .a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the expense the shop must pass on to you to cover its labor and overhead costs. An added benefit is the sense of satisfaction and accomplishment that you feel after doing the job yourself.

Using the manual The manual is divided into Chapters. Each Chapter is divided into numbered Sections, which are headed in bold type between horizontal

lines. Each Section consists of consecutively numbered paragraphs.

At the beginning of each numbered Section you will be referred to any illustrations which apply to the procedures in that Section. The reference numbers used in illustration captions pinpoint the pertinent Section and the Step within that Section. That is, illustration 3.2 means the illustration refers to Section 3 and Step (or paragraph) 2 within that Section. Procedures,

once

described

in the

text,

are

not

normally

repeated. When it’s necessary to refer to another Chapter, the reference will be given as Chapter and Section number. Cross references given without use of the word "Chapter” apply to Sections and/or

paragraphs in the same Chapter. For example, "see Section 8” means in the same Chapter. References to the left or right side of the vehicle assume you are sitting in the driver’s seat, facing forward. Even though we have prepared this manual with extreme care, neither the publisher nor the author can accept responsibility for any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

NOTE A Note provides information necessary to properly complete a procedure or information which will make the procedure easier to understand.

CAUTION A Caution provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the Caution is found. Not heeding a Caution can result in damage to the assembly being worked on.

WARNING A Warning provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the, .

Warning is found. Not heeding a Warning can result in personal injury.

Introduction to the Dodge and Plymouth vans Dodge and Plymouth Full-size vans feature conventional chassis ‘layout, with the engine mounted at the front and the power being transmitted through either a manual or automatic transmission to a driveshaft and solid rear axle. Transmissions used are a three-, four- or a five-speed manual and three- or four-speed automatic.

The front suspension features independent coil spring type front suspension and solid axle and leaf springs at the rear. All models are equipped with power assisted front drum or disc and either drum or disc rear brakes. An Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) is used on some later models.

Vehicle identification numbers Modifications are a continuing and unpublicized process in vehicle manufacturing. Since spare parts manuals and lists are compiled on a numerical

basis, the individual vehicle numbers are essential to

correctly identify the component required.

Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)

ee

Dodge

Plymouth

It= ge[e]

DeSoto

MARCAS

REG

TMS

REG

US

PAT

OFF

This very important identification number is stamped on a plate attached to the left door or pillar (earlier models) or side of the dashboard just inside the windshield on the driver’s side of the vehicle (later models) (see illustrations). The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certificate of Title and Registration. It contains information such as where and when the vehicle was manufactured,

the model year and

the body style.

VIN year and engine codes Two particularly important pieces of information located in the VIN are the model year and engine codes. On models through 1980, counting from the left, the engine code is the fourth digit and the model year code is the fifth digit. On 1981 and later models, the 8th digit is the engine code and the 10th digit is the model year code. After obtaining the engine code from the VIN, use the accompanying chart to identify which engine was installed in your vehicle at the factory (see illustration). On earlier models, it’s possible the original engine may have been “swapped” for a different engine; see Engine sequence number below to determine if this has happened.

WARRANTY VOID IF ANY RATINGS ARE EXCEEDED @r* GVW & GAWR RATINGS OF THIS VEHICLE,SEE THE MADE SAFETY CERTIFICATION LABEL

Example (1971 through 1980 models):

This number-stamped metal plate is located on inside of the hood. It contains valuable information concerning the production of the

Engine code (5th digit)

Model year code (6th digit)

Example (1981 and later models):

VIN. PLATE LOCATION Engine code (8th digit)

Force

INSTRUMENT

Model year c ode (10th digit)

PANEL

Model Year Codes

1 = 1971 2=1972 3=1973 4=1974 5=1975 6=1976 7=1977 8=1978 9=1979 On later models the VIN is visible from the outside of the vehicle,

through the driver’s side of the windshield

@

On earlier models the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is found on the vehicle identification plate on the driver’s side door or door post

Equipment identification plate vehicle as well as information about the way in which the vehicle is equipped. This plate is especially useful for matching the color and type of paint during repair work.

IN USA

0=1980 Bz=1981 C=1982 D=1983 E=1984 F=1985 G=1986 H=1987 J=1988

K=1989 L = 1990 M=1991 N=1992 P=1993 R=1994 $=1995 T=1996

Engine and model year codes

Vehicle identification numbers

0-7

360 CID V8 EFI engine (1994)

Safety Certification label

198 CID six-cylinder engine one-barrel carburetor (1971 through 1974)

The Safety Certification label is affixed to the left front door pillar. The plate contains the name of the manufacturer, the month and year of production, the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the certifi-

225 CID six-cylinder engine one-barrel carburetor (1974 through 1980)

“cation statement.

Engine identification number 225 CID six-cylinder engine two-barrel carburetor (1974 through 1980) 440 CID V8 engine one-barrel carburetor (1974 through 1978) 318 CID V8 engine (1 barrel carburetor) (1971 through 1980) 360 CID V8 engine (1974 through 1980)

318 CID v8 engine two-barrel carburetor (1980) 225 CID six-cylinder engine one-barrel carburetor (1983 through 1987) 225 CID six-cylinder engine, (1 barrel carburetor) (1985 through 1987)

The engine ID number on the six-cylinder engine is stamped into the rear of the block, just below the cylinder head and in front of the bellhousing (see illustration). On the earlier small-block V8 engine, the number is on the front of the left cylinder bank, just below the cylinder head (see illustration). On the later small block V8 and V6 engines the number is a pad located next to the right engine mount (see illustration).On big-block 440 and 400 engines, the pad is on the right (passenger’s side) of the distributor.

Engine sequence number In addition to the engine identification number, a sequence number, which may be helpful when buying replacement parts, is used. On six-cylinder engines, the number is directly below the engine identification number. On V8 engines, the number is on the right side of the block, just above the oil pan (see illustration). If the original engine is still installed in your vehicle, the last six digits of this number will match the last six digits of the VIN number.

360 CID V8 engine (California) (1983 through 1987)

400 CID V8 (1974 through 1978) 225 CID six-cylinder engine, one-barrel carburetor (1983)

225 CID six-cylinder engine one-barrel carburetor (1980) 318 CID V8, four-barrel carburetor (1980) 318 CID V8, two-barrel carburetor) (1981 and 1982) 318 CID V8, four-barrel carburetor (1981 and 1982)

IDENTIFICATION PAD

318 CID V8 engine four-barrel carburetor (1982) 360 CID V8 high-performance engine (1980) 360 CID V8 engine two-barrel carburetor (1981 and 1982) On the inline six-cylinder engine, the engine number is located

360 CID V8 engine (1974 through 1982)

318 CID V8 engine two-barrel carburetor (1983 through 1987)

on the identification pad below the right rear corner of the cylinder head

360 CID V8 engine (1980 through 1982)

318 CID V8 engine four-barrel carburetor (1983 through 1987) 360 CID V8 high performance (1981 through 1983) 360 CID V8 engine two-barrel carburetor (1983 through 1989) 360 CID V8 engine (Federal) (1983 through 1991) 238 CID v6 EFI engine (1989 through 1996)

318 CID V8 EFI engine (1989 through 1996) 360 CID V8 MPI engine (1990 through 1996)

5.9 liter V8 EFI engine (heavy duty) (1990 through 1993) Engine identification codes for the models covered in this manual

On later small block V8 and V6 engines the identification number is on a pad near the engine mount

0-8

Vehicle identification numbers

IDENTIFICATION TAG

Typical manual transmission identification number location

PART

NUMBER

AXLE MODEL

Pith

Pee

SERIAL NUMBER

DIFFERENTIAL PUSH-IN FILL PLUG

Automatic transmission number pad location

Transmission identification number The ID number on manual transmissions is located on a pad on the right side of the case (see illustration). On automatic transmissions, the number is stamped on the transmission case near the fluid dipstick tube (see illustration).

Axle identification numbers The identification number is located on a tag attached to the differential cover (see illustration). IDENTIFICATION TAG

LIMITED SLIP TAG

Typical axle identification tag location

0-9

Buying parts

)

Replacement parts are available from many sources, which generally fall into one of two categories - authorized dealer parts departments and independent retail auto parts stores. Our advice concerning these parts is as follows: Retail auto parts stores: Good auto parts stores will stock frequently needed components which wear out relatively fast, such as clutch components, exhaust systems, brake parts, tune-up parts, etc. These stores often supply new or reconditioned parts on an exchange basis, which can save a considerable amount of money. Discount auto parts stores are often very good places to buy materials and parts needed for general vehicle maintenance such as oil, grease, filters, spark plugs, belts, touch-up paint, bulbs, etc. They

hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home. Authorized dealer parts department: This is the best source for parts which are unique to the vehicle and not generally available elsewhere (such as major engine parts, transmission parts, trim pieces, etc.). Warranty information: \f the vehicle is still covered under warranty, be sure that any replacement parts purchased - regardless of the source - do not invalidate the warranty! To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, have engine and chassis numbers available and, if possible, take the old parts along for positive identification.

also usually sell tools and general accessories, have convenient

Maintenance techniques,

tools and working facilities Maintenance techniques There are a number of techniques involved in maintenance and repair that will be referred to throughout this manual. Application of these techniques will enable the home mechanic to be more efficient,

better organized and capable of performing the various tasks properly, which will ensure that the repair job is thorough and complete.

Fasteners Fasteners are nuts, bolts, studs and screws used to hold two or

more parts together. There are a few things to keep in mind when working with fasteners. Almost all of them use a locking device of some type, either a lockwasher, locknut, locking tab or thread adhesive. All threaded fasteners should be clean and straight, with undamaged threads and undamaged corners on the hex head where the _ wrench fits. Develop the habit of replacing all damaged nuts and bolts with new ones. Special locknuts with nylon or fiber inserts can only be

used once. If they are removed, they lose their locking ability and must be replaced with new ones. Rusted nuts and bolts should be treated with a penetrating fluid to ease removal and prevent breakage. Some mechanics use turpentine in a spout-type oil can, which works quite well. After applying the rust penetrant, let it work for a few minutes before trying to loosen the nut or bolt. Badly rusted fasteners may have to be chiseled or sawed off or removed with a special nut breaker, available at tool stores. If a bolt or stud breaks off in an assembly, it can be drilled and

removed with a special tool commonly available for this purpose. Most automotive machine shops can perform this task, as well as other repair procedures, such as the repair of threaded holes that have been

stripped out. Flat washers and lockwashers, when removed from an assembly,

should always be replaced exactly as removed. Replace any damaged washers with new ones. Never use a lockwasher on any soft metal surface (such as aluminum), thin sheet metal or plastic.

0-10

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities wrench

Fastener sizes For a number of reasons, automobile manufacturers are making wider and wider use of metric fasteners. Therefore, it is important to be able to tell the difference between standard (sometimes called U.S. or SAE) and metric hardware, since they cannot be interchanged. All bolts, whether standard or metric, are sized according to diameter, thread pitch and length. For example, a standard 1/2 - 13 x 1 bolt is 1/2 inch in diameter, has 13 threads per inch and is 1 inch long. An M12 - 1.75 x 25 metric bolt is 12 mm

in diameter, has a thread pitch of

1.75 mm (the distance between threads) and is 25 mm long. The two bolts are nearly identical, and easily confused, but they are not interchangeable. In addition to the differences in diameter, thread pitch and length, metric and standard bolts can also be distinguished by examining the bolt heads. To begin with, the distance across the flats on a standard

bolt head is measured in inches, while the same dimension on a metric bolt is sized in millimeters (the same is true for nuts). As a result, a standard wrench should not be used on a metric bolt and a metric

should

not

be used on a standard bolt. Also, most standard

bolts have slashes radiating out from the center of the head to denote the grade or strength of the bolt, which is an indication of the amount of torque that can be applied to it. The greater the number of slashes, the greater the strength of the bolt. Grades 0 through 5 are commonly used on automobiles. Metric bolts have a property class (grade) number, rather than a slash, molded

into their heads

Metric studs are also marked on their ends according to property

class (grade). Larger studs are numbered (the same as metric bolts), while smaller studs carry a geometric code to denote grade.

Grade1 or 2

Bolt strength markings (top - standard/SAE/USS; bottom - metric)

a

Standard hex nut strength markings

=

© | Wa

Metric hex nut strength markings

to indicate bolt

strength. In this case, the higher the number, the stronger the bolt. Property class numbers 8.8, 9.8 and 10.9 are commonly used on automobiles. Strength markings can also be used to distinguish standard hex nuts from metric hex nuts. Many standard nuts have dots stamped into one side, while metric nuts are marked with a number. The greater the number of dots, or the higher the number, the greater the strength of the nut. .

Metric stud strength markings

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities It should

be noted that many fasteners,

especially Grades

0

through 2, have no distinguishing marks on them. When such is the case, the only way to determine whether it is standard or metric is to measure the thread pitch or compare it to a known fastener of the same size. : Standard fasteners are often referred to as SAE, as opposed to metric. However,

it should be noted that SAE technically refers to a

non-metric fine thread fastener only. Coarse thread non-metric fasten- ers are referred to as USS sizes. Since fasteners of the same size (both standard and metric) may

have different strength ratings, be sure to reinstall any bolts, studs or nuts removed from your vehicle in their original locations. Also, when replacing a fastener with a new one, make sure that the new one has a

strength rating equal to or greater than the original.

Tightening sequences and procedures Most threaded fasteners should be tightened to a specific. torque value (torque is the twisting force applied to a threaded component

such as a nut or bolt). Overtightening the fastener can weaken it and cause it to break, while undertightening can cause it to eventually come loose. Bolts, screws and studs, depending on the material they are made of and their thread diameters, have specific torque values, many of which are noted in the Specifications at the beginning of each Chapter. Be sure to follow the torque recommendations closely. For fasteners not assigned a specific torque, a general torque value chart is presented here as a guide. These torque values are for dry (unlubricated) fasteners threaded into steel or cast iron (not aluminum). As was

previously mentioned, the size and grade of a fastener determine the amount of torque that can safely be applied to it. The figures listed

Metric thread sizes

NSN

nctee tela catte tas ie hae ai aipiee eek

Standard (SAE and USS) bolt dimensions/grade marks — G_ L T

Grade marks (bolt strength) Length (in inches) Thread pitch (number of threads per inch)

D

Nominal diameter (in inches)

0-11

Ft-Ibs

Nm

meer

6 to9

9to 12

Rig ratte Peer aws nica

14 28 50 80

to to to to

21 40 71 140

19 to 28 38 to 54 68 to 96 109 to 154

Feces 5 to 8 seetens a 12 to 18 WA Aer 22 to 33 beseieis 25 to 35

7 to 10 17 to 24 30 to 44 34 to 47

Seo:

6 to9

9 to 12

Bh Sota Bi anne Eee net trees Rests bra ens Rng

12 14 22 27 40 40 55

to to to to to to to

18 20 32 38 55 60 80

17 19 30 37 55 55 75

to to to to to to to

24 27 43 51 74 81 108

Metric bolt dimensions/grade marks Property class (bolt strength) Length (in millimeters) Thread pitch (distance between threads in millimeters) Oy4rD Diameter

0-12

- Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

here are approximate for Grade 2 and Grade 3 fasteners. Higher grades can tolerate higher torque values. Fasteners laid out in a pattern, such as cylinder head bolts, oil pan bolts, differential cover bolts, etc., must be loosened or tightened

in sequence to avoid warping the component. This sequence will normally be shown in the appropriate Chapter. If a specific pattern is not given, the following procedures can be used to prevent warping. Initially, the bolts or nuts should be assembled finger-tight only. Next, they should be tightened one full turn each, in a criss-cross or diagonal pattern. After each one has been tightened one full turn, return to the first one and tighten them all one-half turn, following the same pattern. Finally, tighten each of them one-quarter turn at a time until each fastener has been tightened to the proper torque. To loosen and remove the fasteners, the procedure would be reversed.

Component disassembly Component disassembly should be done with care and purpose to help ensure that the parts go back together properly. Always keep track of the sequence in which parts are removed. Make note of special characteristics or marks on parts that can be installed more than one way, such as a grooved thrust washer on a shaft. It is a good idea

to lay the disassembled parts out on a clean surface in the order that they were removed. It may also be helpful to make sketches or take instant photos of components before removal. When removing fasteners from a component, keep track of their locations. Sometimes threading a bolt back in a part, or putting the washers and nut back on a stud, can prevent mix-ups later. If nuts and bolts cannot be returned to their originalilocations, they should be kept in a compartmented box or a series of small boxes. A cupcake or muffin tin is ideal for this purpose, since each cavity can hold the bolts and nuts from a particular area (i.e. oil pan bolts, valve cover bolts, engine mount bolts, etc.). A pan of this type is especially helpful when working

Hose removal tips Warning: /f the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, do not disconnect any of the A/C hoses without first having the system depressurized by a dealer service department or a service station. Hose removal precautions closely parallel gasket removal precau-

tions. Avoid scratching or gouging the surface that the hose mates against or the connection may leak. This is especially true for radiator hoses. Because of various chemical reactions, the rubber in hoses can bond itself to the metal spigot that the hose fits over. To remove a hose, first loosen the hose clamps that secure it to the spigot. Then, with slip-joint pliers, grab the hose at the clamp and rotate it around the spigot. Work it back and forth until it is completely free, then pull it off. Silicone or other lubricants will ease removal if they can be applied between the hose and the outside of the spigot. Apply the same lubricant to the inside of the hose and the outside of the spigot to simplify installation. As a last resort (and if the hose is to be replaced with a new one anyway), the rubber can be slit witha knife and the hose peeled from the spigot. If this must be done, be careful that the ie connection is not damaged. If a hose clamp is broken or damaged, do not reuse it. Wire-type

clamps usually weaken with age, so it is a good idea to replace them with screw-type clamps whenever a hose is removed.

Tools A selection of good tools is a basic requirement for anyone who plans to maintain and repair his or her own vehicle. For the owner who has few tools, the initial investment might seem high, but when com-

pared to the spiraling costs of professional auto maintenance and repair, it is a wise one.

on assemblies with very small parts, such as the carburetor, alternator,

valve train or interior dash and trim pieces. The cavities can be marked with paint or tape to identify the contents. Whenever wiring looms, harnesses or connectors are separated,

it is a good idea to identify the two halves with numbered pieces of masking tape so they can be easily reconnected.

Gasket sealing surfaces Throughout any vehicle, gaskets are used to seal the mating surfaces between two parts and keep lubricants, fluids, vacuum or pressure contained in an assembly. Many times these gaskets are coated with a liquid or paste-type gasket sealing compound before assembly. Age, heat and pressure can sometimes cause the two parts to stick together so tightly that they are very difficult to separate. Often, the assembly can be loosened by striking it with a soft-face hammer near the mating surfaces. A regular hammer can be used if a block of wood is placed between the hammer and the part. Do not hammer on cast parts or parts that could be easily damaged. With any particularly stubborn part, always recheck to make sure that every fastener has been removed. Avoid using a screwdriver or bar to pry apart an assembly, as they can easily mar the gasket sealing surfaces of the parts, which must remain smooth. If prying is absolutely necessary, use an old broom handle, but keep in mind that extra clean up will be necessary if the wood splinters. After the parts are separated, the old gasket must be carefully scraped off and the gasket surfaces cleaned. Stubborn gasket material can be soaked with rust penetrant or treated with a special chemical to soften it so it can be easily scraped off. A scraper can be fashioned from a piece of copper tubing by flattening and sharpening one end. Copper is recommended because it is usually softer than the surfaces to be scraped, which reduces the chance of gouging the part. Some gaskets can

be removed

Micrometer set

with a wire brush, but regardless of the

method used, the mating surfaces must be left clean'and smooth. If for some reason the gasket surface is gouged, then a gasket sealer thick enough to fill scratches will have to be used during reassembly of the components. For most applications, a non- ye (or semi-drying) gasket sealer should be used.

oy

Dial indicator set

ee

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

—

Timing light

-

Compression gauge with spark plug hole adapter

__ Ridge reamer

;

Valve spring compressor

Valve spring compressor

Piston ring groove cleaning tool

Ring removal/installation tool

0-13

0-14

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Ring compressor

Cylinder hone

Brake hold-down spring tool

Brake cylinder hone

Clutch plate alignment tool

Tap and die set

To help the owner decide which tools are needed to perform the tasks detailed

‘

in this manual,

the following tool lists are offered:

Oil can Fine emery cloth Wire brush Battery post and cable cleaning tool Oil filter wrench

Maintenance and minor repair, Repair/overhaul and Special. The newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the maintenance and minor repair tool kit, which is adequate for the simpler jobs performed on a vehicle. Then, as confidence and experience grow, the owner can tackle more difficult tasks, buying additional tools as they are needed. Eventually the basic kit will be expanded into the repair and overhaul tool set. Over a period of time, the experienced do-it-yourselfer will assemble a tool set complete enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the special category when it is felt that the expense is justified by the frequency of

Drain pan Note: /f basic tune-ups are going to be part of routine maintenance, it will be necessary to purchase a good quality stroboscopic timing light and combination tachometer/dwell meter. Although they are included

use.

in the list of special tools, it is mentioned

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit The tools in this list should be considered the minimum required for performance of routine maintenance, servicing work. We recommend the purchase of combination end and open-end combined in one wrench). While than open end wrenches, they offer the advantages wrench.

and minor repair wrenches (boxmore expensive of both types of

Combination wrench set (1/4-inch to 1 inch or 6 mm to 19 mm) Adjustable wrench, 8 inch

Spark plug wrench with rubber insert Spark plug gap adjusting tool Feeler gauge set Brake bleeder wrench Standard screwdriver (5/16-inch x 6 inch) Phillips screwdriver (No. 2 x 6 inch) Combination pliers - 6 inch Hacksaw and assortment of blades Tire pressure gauge

Grease gun

Funnel (medium size) Safety goggles Jackstands (2)

here because

they are

absolutely necessary for tuning most vehicles properly. ~

Repair and overhaul tool set These tools are essential for anyone who plans to perform major

repairs and are in addition to those in the maintenance and minor repair tool kit. Included is a comprehensive set of sockets which, though expensive, are invaluable because of their versatility, especially when various extensions and drives are available. We recommend the 1/2-inch drive over the 3/8-inch drive. Although the larger drive is bulky and more expensive, it has the capacity of accepting a very wide range of large sockets. Ideally, however, the mechanic should have a 3/8inch drive set and a 1/2-inch drive set.

Socket set(s) Reversible ratchet Extension - 10 inch Universal joint Torque wrench (same size drive as sockets) Ball peen hammer - 8 ounce Soft-face hammer (plastic/rubber) Standard screwdriver (1/4-inch x 6 inch)

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Standard screwdriver (stubby - 5/16-inch)

to purchase a modest tool set from one of the large retail chain stores. A set can usually be bought at a substantial savings over the individual

Phillips screwdriver (No. 3 x 8 inch) Phillips screwdriver (stubby - No. 2) Pliers - vise grip Pliers - lineman’s. Pliers - needle nose Pliers - snap-ring (internal and external) Cold chisel - 1/2-inch

tool prices, and they often come with a tool box. As additional tools are

Scribe Scraper (made from flattened copper tubing) Centerpunch Pin punches (1/16, 1/8, 3/16-inch) Stee! rule/straightedge - 12 inch

Allen wrench set (1/8 to 3/8-inch or A selection of files

4mm to

0-15

10 mm)

Wire brush (large) Jackstands (second set) Jack (scissor or hydraulic type) Note: Another tool which is often useful is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of 3/8-inch and a set of good quality drill bits.

Special tools The tools in this list include those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturer’s instructions. Unless these tools will be used frequently, it is not very economical to purchase many of them. A consideration would be to split the cost and use between yourself and a friend or friends. In addition, most of these tools can be obtained from

a tool rental shop on a temporary basis. This list primarily contains only those tools and instruments widely available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer for distribution to dealer service departments. Occasionally, references to the manufacturer’s special tools are included in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of

doing the job without the special tool is offered. However, sometimes there is no alternative to their use. Where this is the case, and the tool cannot be purchased or borrowed, the work should be turned over to

the dealer service department or an automotive repair shop.

Valve spring compressor Piston ring groove cleaning tool Piston ring compressor Piston ring installation tool Cylinder compression gauge Cylinder ridge reamer Cylinder surfacing hone Cylinder bore gauge Micrometers and/or dial calipers Hydraulic lifter removal tool Balljoint separator Universal-type puller Impact screwdriver Dial indicator set Stroboscopic timing light (inductive pick-up) _ Hand operated vacuum/pressure pump Tachometer/dwell meter Universal electrical multimeter

Cable hoist = Brake spring removal and installation tools Floor jack

Buying tools For the do-it-yourselfer who is just starting to get involved in vehicle maintenance and repair, there are a number of options available when purchasing tools. If maintenance and minor repair is the extent of the work to be done, the purchase of individual tools is satisfactory. If, on the other hand, extensive work is planned, it would be a good idea

needed, add-on sets, individual tools and a larger tool box can be purchased to expand the tool selection. Building a tool set gradually allows the cost of the tools to be spread over a longer period of time and gives the mechanic the freedom to choose only those tools that will actually be used. Tool stores will often be the only source of some of the special tools that are needed, but regardless of where tools are bought, try to avoid cheap ones, especially when buying screwdrivers and sockets, because they won’t last very long. The expense involved in replacing cheap tools will eventually be greater than the initial cost of quality tools.

Care and maintenance of tools Good tools are expensive, so it makes sense to treat them with respect. Keep them clean and in usable condition and store them properly when notin use. Always wipe off any dirt, grease or metal chips before putting them away. Never leave tools lying around in the work area. Upon completion of a job, always check closely under the hood for tools that may have been left there so they won’t get lost during a test drive. Some tools, such as screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches and sockets,

can be hung on a panel mounted on the garage or workshop wall, while others should be kept in a tool box or tray. Measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc. must be carefully stored where they can-

not be damaged by weather or impact from other tools. When tools are used with care and stored properly, they will last a very long time. Even with the best of care, though, tools will wear out if used frequently. When a tool is damaged or worn out, replace it. Subsequent jobs will be safer and more enjoyable if you do.

Working facilities Not to be overlooked when discussing tools is the workshop. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some sort of suitable work area is essential. It is understood, and appreciated, that many home mechanics do not have a good workshop or garage available, and end up removing an engine or doing major repairs outside. It is recommended, however,

that the overhaul or repair be completed under the cover of a roof.

A clean, flat workbench or table of comfortable working height is an absolute necessity. The workbench should be equipped with a vise that has a jaw opening of at least four inches. As mentioned previously, some clean, dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as the lubricants, fluids, cleaning solvents, etc. which soon become necessary. Sometimes waste oil and fluids, drained from the engine or cool-

ing system during normal maintenance or repairs, present a disposal problem. To avoid pouring them on the ground or into a sewage system, pour the used fluids into large containers, seal them with caps and take them to an authorized disposal site or recycling center. Plastic jugs, such as old antifreeze containers, are ideal for this purpose. Always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean rags available. Old towels are excellent for mopping up spills. Many mechanics use rolls of paper towels for most work because they are readily available and disposable. To help keep the area under the vehicle clean, a large cardboard box can be cut open and flattened to protect the garage or shop floor. Whenever working over a painted surface, such as when leaning over a fender to service something under the hood, always cover it with an old blanket or bedspread to protect the finish. Vinyl covered pads, made especially for this purpose, are available at auto parts stores.

0-16

Jacking and towing Jacking The jack supplied with the vehicle should only be used for raising the vehicle when changing a tire or placing jackstands under the frame. NEVER work under the vehicle or start the engine when the vehicle supported only by a jack. The vehicle should be parked on level ground with the wheels blocked, the parking brake applied and the transmission in Park (automatic) or Reverse (manual). If the vehicle is parked alongside the roadway, or in any other hazardous situation, turn on the emergency hazard flashers. If a.tire is to be changed, loosen the lug nuts one-half turn

before raising off the ground. Place the jack under the vehicle in the indicated position (see illustration). Operate the jack with a slow, smooth motion until the wheel is raised off the ground. Remove the lug nuts, pull off the wheel, install the spare and thread the lug nuts back on with the beveled side facing in. Tighten the lug nuts snugly, lower the vehicle until some weight is on the wheel, tighten them completely in a criss-cross pattern and remove the jack. Note that some spare tires are designed for temporary use only - don’t exceed the recommended speed, mileage or other restriction instructions accompanying the spare.

Safety is a major consideration when towing and all applicable state and local laws must be obeyed. In addition to a tow bar, a safety chain must be used for all towing. These vehicles may be towed with four wheels on the ground for a distance of 15 miles or less, as long as the speed doesn’t exceed 30 mph. If the vehicle has to be towed more than 15 miles, place the rear wheels on a towing dolly. If any vehicle is to be towed with the front wheels on the ground and the rear wheels raised, the ignition key must be turned to the OFF

position to unlock the steering column and a steering wheel clamping device designed for towing must be used or damage to the steering column lock may occur.

Towing Equipment specifically designed for towing should be used and attached to the main structural members of the vehicle. Optional tow hooks may be attached to the frame at both ends of the vehicle; they are intended for emergency use only, for rescuing a stranded vehicle. Do not use the tow hooks for highway towing. Stand clear when using tow straps or chains, they may break causing serious injury.

PLACE JACK ON STRUT gia BRACKET ‘“Qxa

PLACE JACK ON REAR AXLE

Front and rear jacking points

:

0-17

Booster battery (jump) starting Observe these precautions when using a booster battery to start a vehicle: ;

a) Before connecting the booster battery, make-sure the ignition ‘switch is in the Off position. b) Turn off the lights, heater and other electrical loads. c) Your eyes should be shielded. Safety goggles are a good idea. d) Make sure the booster battery is the same voltage as the dead one in the vehicle. e) The two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other! f) Make sure the transaxle is in Neutral (manual) or Park (automatic). _g). If the booster battery is not a maintenance-free type, remove the vent caps and lay a cloth over the vent holes. Connect the red jumper cable to the positive (+) terminals of each

battery (see illustration). Connect one end of the black jumper cable to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery. The other end of this cable should be connected to a good ground on the vehicle to be started, such as a bolt or

bracket on the body. Start the engine using the booster battery, then, with the engine running at idle speed, disconnect the jumper cables in the reverse

-

order of connection.

Make the booster battery cable connections in the numerical order shown (note that the negative cable of the booster battery is NOT attached to the negative terminal of the dead battery)

0-18

Automotive chemicals and lubricants A number of automotive chemicals and lubricants are available for use during vehicle maintenance and repair. They include a wide variety of products ranging from cleaning solvents and degreasers to lubricants and protective sprays for rubber, plastic and vinyl.

that is used for mounting electronic ignition modules where it is essential that heat is transferred away from the module.

Cleaners

Made from silicone, RTV is air curing, it seals, bonds, waterproofs, fills

Carburetor cleaner and choke cleaner is a strong solvent for gum, varnish and carbon. Most carburetor cleaners leave a dry-type lubricant film which will not harden or gum up. Because of this film it is not recommended for use on electrical components. Brake system cleaner is used to remove grease and brake fluid from the brake system, where clean surfaces are absolutely necessary. It leaves no residue and often eliminates brake squeal caused by contaminants. Electrical cleaner removes oxidation, corrosion and carbon deposits from electrical contacts, restoring full current flow. It can also be used to clean spark plugs, carburetor jets, voltage regulators and other parts where an oil-free surface is desired. Demoisturants remove water and moisture from electrical components such as alternators, voltage regulators, electrical connectors and fuse blocks. They are non-conductive, non-corrosive and nonflammable. Degreasers are heavy-duty solvents used to remove grease from the outside of the engine and from chassis components. They can be sprayed or brushed on and, depending on the type, are rinsed off either

with water or solvent.

Lubricants Motor oil is the lubricant formulated for use in engines. It normally contains a wide variety of additives to prevent corrosion and reduce

foaming and wear. Motor oil comes in various weights (viscosity ratings) from 5 to 80. The recommended weight of the oil depends on the season, temperature and the demands on the engine. Light oil is used in cold climates and under light load conditions. Heavy oil is used in hot climates and where high loads are encountered. Multi-viscosity oils are designed to have characteristics of both light and heavy oils and are available in a number of weights from 5W-20 to 20W-50. Gear oil is designed to be used in differentials, manual transmissions and other areas where high-temperature lubrication is required. Chassis and wheel bearing grease is a heavy grease used

where increased loads and friction are encountered, such as for wheel bearings, balljoints, tie-rod ends and universal joints. High-temperature wheel bearing grease is designed to with-

stand the extreme temperatures encountered by wheel bearings in disc brake equipped vehicles. It usually contains molybdenum disulfide (moly), which is a dry-type lubricant. White grease is a heavy grease for metal-to-metal applications where water is a problem. White grease stays soft under both low and high temperatures (usually from -100 to +190-degrees F), and will not wash off or dilute in the presence of water. Assembly lube is a special extreme pressure lubricant, usually containing moly, used to lubricate high-load parts (such as main and rod bearings and cam lobes) for initial start-up of a new engine. The assembly lube lubricates the parts without being squeezed out or washed away until the engine oiling system begins to function. Silicone lubricants are used to protect rubber, plastic, vinyl and nylon parts. Graphite lubricants are used where oils cannot be used due to contamination problems, such as in locks. The dry graphite will lubricate metal parts while remaining uncontaminated by dirt, water, oil or acids. It is electrically conductive and will not foul electrical contacts.in locks such as the ignition switch. Moly penetrants loosen and lubricate frozen, rusted and corroded fasteners and prevent future rusting or freezing.

Heat-sink grease is a special electrically non-conductive grease

Sealants ° RTV sealant is one of the most widely used gasket compounds. surface irregularities, remains flexible, doesn’t shrink, is relatively easy to remove, and is used as a supplementary sealer with almost all low and medium temperature gaskets. Anaerobic sealant is much like RTV in that it can be used either to seal gaskets or to form gaskets by itself. It remains flexible, is solvent resistant and fills surface imperfections. The difference between

an anaerobic sealant and an RTV-type sealant is in the curing. RTV cures when exposed to air, while an anaerobic sealant cures only in the absence of air. This means that an anaerobic sealant cures only after the assembly of parts, sealing them together. Thread and pipe sealant is used for sealing hydraulic and pneumatic fittings and vacuum lines. It is usually made from a Teflon compound, and comes in a spray, a paint-on liquid and as a wrap-around

tape.

Chemicals Anti-seize compound prevents seizing, galling, cold welding, rust and corrosion in fasteners. High-temperature ant-seize, usually made with copper and graphite lubricants, is used for exhaust system and exhaust manifold bolts. Anaerobic locking compounds are used to keep fasteners from vibrating or working loose and cure only after installation, in the absence of air. Medium strength locking compound is used for small nuts, bolts and screws that may be removed later. High-strength locking compound is for large nuts, bolts and studs which aren’t removed on a regular basis. : Oil additives range from viscosity index improvers to chemical treatments that claim to reduce internal engine friction. It should be noted that most oil manufacturers caution against using additives with their oils.

Gas additives perform several functions, depending on their chemical makeup. They usually contain solvents that help dissolve gum and varnish that build up on carburetor, fuel injection and intake parts. They also serve to break down carbon deposits that form on the inside surfaces of the combustion chambers. Some additives contain upper cylinder lubricants for valves and piston rings, and others contain chemicals to remove condensation from the gas tank.

Miscellaneous Brake fluid is specially formulated hydraulic fluid that can withstand the heat and pressure encountered in brake systems. Care must be taken so this fluid does not come in contact with painted surfaces or plastics. An opened container should always be resealed to prevent contamination by water or dirt. Weatherstrip adhesive is used to bond weatherstripping around doors, windows

and trunk lids. It is sometimes

used to attach trim

pieces.

Undercoating is a petroleum-based, tar-like substance that is designed to protect metal surfaces on the underside of the vehicle from corrosion. It also acts as a sound-deadening agent by insulating the bottom of the vehicle. Waxes and polishes are used to help protect painted and plated surfaces from the weather. Different types of paint may require the use of different types of wax and polish. Some polishes utilize a chemical or abrasive cleaner to help remove the top layer of oxidized (dull) paint on older vehicles. In recent years many non-wax polishes that contain a wide variety of chemicals such as polymers and silicones have been

introduced. These non-wax polishes are usually easier to apply and last longer than conventional waxes and polishes.

|

0-19

Conversion

factors

Length (distance) Inches (in)

X

25.4

=Millimetres (mm)

X

0.0394

Feet (ft)

X

0.305

= Metres (m)

X

3.281

=Inches (in)

= Feet (ft)

Miles

X

1.609

=Kilometres (km)

xX

0.621

= Miles

Cubic inches (cu in; in®)

X 16.387 = Cubic centimetres (cc; cm’)

X

0.061

Imperial pints (Imp pt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) US quarts (US qt) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) US gallons (US gal)

X. X X X X X X

0.568 1.137 1.201 0.946 4.546 1.201 3.785

= Litres (I) = Litres (I) =US quarts (US qt) = Litres (I) =Litres (I) =US gallons (US gal) =Litres (I)

x Xx X X x X X

1.76 0.88 0.833 1.057. 0.22 0.833 0.264

Ounces (oz)

X

28.35

=Grams

xX

0.035

Ounces (oz)

Pounds (Ib)

X

0.454

=Kilograms (kg)

X

2.205

= Pounds (Ib)

X X X

0.278 4.448 0.1

=Newtons (N) = Newtons (N) =Kilograms-force (kgf; kg)

x X x

3.6 0.225 9.81

= Ounces-force (ozf; oz) =Pounds-force (Ibf; Ib) = Newtons (N)

X

0.070

= Kilograms-force per square

X

14.223

= Pounds-force per square inch

X

14.696

= Pounds-force per square inch

Volume (capacity) © =Cubic inches (cu in; in*) = Imperial pints (Imp pt) = Imperial quarts (Imp gt) =Imperial quarts (Imp qt) =US quarts (US gt) = Imperial gallons (Imp gal) =Imperial gallons (Imp gal) =US gallons (US gal)

Mass (weight) (g)

Force Ounces-force (ozf; oz) Pounds-force (Ibf; |b) Newtons (N)

Pressure Pounds-force per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in?; |b/in?)

centimetre (kgf/cm?; kg/cm?) X

0.068

=Atmospheres

Pounds-force per square inch.

xX

0.069

= Bars

x

14.5

= Pounds-force per square inch

X

6.895

= Kilopascals (kPa)

x

0.145

= Pounds-force per square inch

X

0.01

=Kilograms-force per square

Xx

98.1

X

0.868

x

8.85

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?) ’

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)

Pounds-force per square inch

(atm)

(psi; Ibf/in?; |b/in?)

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)

‘Pounds-force per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)

(psi; Ibf/in?: Ib/in?)

Kilopascals (kPa)

= Kilopascals (kPa)

centimetre (kgf/cm’; kg/cm’) Torque (moment of force) Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; Ib in) ’ Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; Ib in) Pounds-force inches

X

1.152

X

0.113

=Kilograms-force centimetre (kgf cm; kg cm) =Newton metres (Nm)

= Pounds-force inches .(Ibf in; Ib in) = Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; Ib in) = Pounds-force inches

X

0.083

= Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft)

xX

12

Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft)

X

0.138

= Kilograms-force metres

X

7.233

=Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft)

Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft) Néwton metres (Nm)

X X

1.356 0.102

=Newton metres (Nm) =Kilograms-force metres

X X

0.738 9.804

= Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft) =Newton metres (Nm)

X

0.0013

=Horsepower (hp)

X

0.621

=Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

X X

2.825 2.352

=Miles per gallon, Imperial (mpg) =Miles per gallon, US (mpg)

(Ibf in; tb in)

(Ibf in; Ib in) (kgf m; kg m)

(kgf m; kg m)

Power Horsepower (hp)

X

745.7

=Watts

(W)

X

1.609

= Kilometres per hour (km/hr; kph)

X X

0.354 0.425

= Kilometres per litre (km/I) =Kilometres per litre (km/I)

Velocity (speed) Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)”

_ Fuel consumption* Miles per gallon, Imperial (mpg) Miles per gallon, US (mpg)

'

_ Temperature Degrees Fahrenheit

=

(°C x 1.8) + 32

Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; °C)

“it is common practice to convert from miles per gallon (mpg) to litres/100 kilometres (1/100km), where mpg (Imperial) x 1/100 km = 282 and mpg (US) x 1/100 km = 235

= (°F - 32) x 0.56

q

0-20

Safety first! Regardless of how enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job at hand, take the time to ensure that your safety is not jeopardized. A moment’s lack of attention can result in an accident, as can failure to observe certain simple safety precautions. The possibility of an accident will always exist, and the following points should not be considered a comprehensive list of all dangers. Rather, they are

intended to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safety conscious approach to all work you carry out on your vehicle.

Essential DOs and DON’Ts DON’T rely on a jack when working under the vehicle. Always use approved jackstands to support the weight of the vehicle and place them under the recommended lift or support points. DON’T attempt to loosen extremely tight fasteners (i.e. wheel lug nuts) while the vehicle is on a jack - it may fall. DON’T start the engine without first making sure that the transmission is in Neutral (or Park where applicable) and the parking brake is set. DON’T remove the radiator cap from a hot cooling system - let it cool or cover it with a cloth and release the pressure gradually.

DON’T attempt to drain the engine oil until you are sure it has cooled to the point that it will not burn you. DON’T touch any part of the engine or exhaust system until it has cooled sufficiently to avoid burns. DON’T siphon toxic liquids such as gasoline, antifreeze and brake fluid by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin. DON’T inhale brake lining dust - it is potentially hazardous (see Asbestos below). DON’T allow spilled oil or grease to remain on the floor - wipe it up before someone slips on it. DON’T use loose fitting wrenches or other tools which may slip and Cause injury. DON’T push on wrenches when loosening or tightening nuts or bolts. Always try to pull the wrench toward you. If the situation calls for pushing the wrench away, push with an open hand to avoid yaa knuckles if the wrench should slip. DON’T attempt to lift a heavy component alone - get someone to help

you. DON’T rush or take unsafe shortcuts to finish a job. DON’T allow children or animals in or around the vehicle while you are working on it. DO wear eye protection when using power tools such as a drill, sander, bench grinder, etc. and when working under a vehicle. DO keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving parts.

DO make sure that any hoist used has a safe working load rating adequate for the job. : DO get someone to check on you periodically when working alone on a vehicle. DO carry out work in a logical sequence and make sure that everything is correctly assembled and tightened. DO keep chemicals and fluids tightly capped and out of the reach of children and pets. DO remember that your vehicle’s safety affects that of yourself and others. If in doubt on any point, get professional advice.

Asbestos Certain friction, insulating, sealing, and other products - such as

brake linings, brake bands, clutch linings, torque converters, gaskets, etc. - contain asbestos. Extreme care must be taken to avoid inhalation of dust from such products, since it is hazardous to health. If in doubt, assume that they do contain asbestos.

Fire

|

Remember at all times that gasoline is highly flammable. Never smoke or have any kind of open flame around when working on a vehi- cle. But the risk does not end there. A spark caused by an electrical short circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, or even by static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite gasoline vapors, which in a confined space are highly explosive. Do not, under any circumstances, use gasoline for cleaning parts. Use an approved safety solvent.

Always disconnect the battery ground (-) cable at the battery before working on any part of the fuel system or electrical system. Never risk spilling fuel on a hot engine or exhaust component.It is strongly recommended that a fire extinguisher suitable for use on fuel

and electrical fires be kept handy in the garage or workshop at all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with water.

Fumes Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconsciousness and even death if inhaled to any extent. Gasoline vapor falls into this category, as do the vapors from some cleaning solvents. Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated area. When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions on

the container carefully. Never use materials from unmarked containers. Never run the engine in an enclosed space, such as a garage. Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide, which is extremely poisonous. If you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air, or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the work area. If you are fortunate enough to have the use of an inspection pit, never drain or pour gasoline and never run the engine while the vehicle is over the pit. The fumes, being heavier than air, will concentrate in the

pit with possibly lethal results.

;

The battery Never create a spark or allow a bare light bulb near a battery.

They normally give off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive. Always disconnect the battery ground (-) cable at the battery

before working on the fuel or electrical systems. If possible, loosen the filler caps or cover when charging the bat- . tery from an external source (this does not apply to sealed or maintenance-free batteries). Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery may burst. Take care when adding water to a non maintenance-free battery and when carrying a battery. The electrolyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be allowed to contact clothing or skin. Always wear eye protection when cleaning the battery to prevent the caustic deposits from entering your eyes.

Household current When using an electric power tool, inspection light, etc., whisk operates on household current, always make sure that the tool is correctly connected to its plug and that, where necessary, it is properly grounded. Do not use such items in damp conditions and, again, do not create a spark or apply excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel vapor.

Secondary ignition system voltage A severe electric shock can result from touching certain parts of the ignition system (such as the spark plug wires) when the engine is running or being cranked, particularly if components are damp or the insulation is defective. In the case of an electronic ignition system, the

secondary system voltage is much higher and could prove fatal. .

0-21

Troubleshooting Contents Symptom

Section

Symptom

Section

Engine and performance Ammeter does not function (needle never MOVES).......:ss:ceceseeees

13

Automatic transmission Engine will start in gears other than Park or Neutral...

50

Ammeter registers a discharge or alternator light stays on...........

12

FUNC SO AKAG Sas. cat caasc4 eetascdes acres seneecant ecerates sauces yar cuaue eta

Aathesecpesee

47

BSGHOLY VuINITOE OIG ACM ANGCsescsveccc.e.esossescseesssobecce.scecsercsscessenoeesses SYREN SE IIRLESTE: coseae

11 18

General shift mechanism ProbleMs .........+.:s:cceeeeseeseeeeesesseeseeeenes Transmission slips, shifts rough, is noisy or has

48

Engine diesels (continues to run) after being turned off...........2.-.-

4

no drive in forward or REVeErse GearS.......:.ccccsccccssecesseeessnecensees

51

Transmission will not downshift with the accelerator pedal pressed to the flOOM......:...eseseseeeeseseentestens

49

ETIGIneiane tO Start WIMeM!COIG

ada

Sea

:

6.4 Remove the two bolts (arrows) and detach the pump from the engine block 5

Before

installation,

coat

both

sides of the gasket with RTV

sealant, position the gasket and fuel pump against the block and install the bolts, tightening them securely. 6 Attach the lines to the pump and tighten-the pressure fitting securely (use a flare-nut wrench, if one is available, to prevent damage to the fittings). Use a new hose clamp on the inlet hose.

7

Run the engine and check for leaks. Install the wheel and lug nuts,

lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts to the torque listed in the Chapter 1 Specifications.

—

side of the engine, towards the front of the engine, either on or near the

timing chain cover. On six-cylinder engines, the pump is also located on the right side of the engine, but it’s closer to the center of the

engine. 2 Loosen the right front wheel lug nuts. Raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstrands. Remove the wheel. Place rags under the fuel pump to catch any gasoline which is spilled during removal. 3 _ Loosen the fuel line fittings and detach the lines from the pump. A flare-nut wrench along with a backup wrench should be used on the pressure-side fitting to prevent damage to the line and fittings (see illustration). 4 Unbolt and remove the fuel pump (see illustration). Remove all traces of gasket material from the mounting surface on the engine block.

7

Fuel level sending unit - check and replacement

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don’t smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don’t work in a garage where a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water heater or a clothes dryer) with a pilot light is present. Since gasoline is carcinogenic, wear latex gloves when there’s a possibility of being exposed to fuel, and, if you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water, Mop up any spills immediately and do not store fuel-

soaked rags where they could ignite. When you perform any kind of — work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a Class B type — fire extinguisher on hand.

4A-5

7.4 Connect the leads of an ohmmeter to the sending unit terminals and check the resistance of the sending unit (this particular fuel tank is almost empty, as indicated by the high resistance value)

7.7 Connect the probes of the ohmmeter to the terminals of the sending unit, then move the float through the complete range of travel and observe the resistance. The sending unit should indicate low resistance when it reaches the top of its travel distance (full tank) and then high resistance when it reaches the bottom of its travel (empty tank)

Check Refer to illustrations. 7.4 and 7.7° 1 Before performing any tests on the fuel level sending unit, com-

pletely fill the tank with fuel. 2 _ Raise the vehicle and secure it with jackstands. 3. Disconnect the fuel level sending unit electrical connector located on the fuel tank, usually at the rear. 4 Connect the probes of an ohmmeter to the electrical connector of the sending unit and check for resistance (see illustration). Use the

200-ohm scale on the ohmmeter. . 5

With the fuel tank completely full, the resistance should be about

5.0 to 8.0 ohms. 6 Reconnect the electrical connector, lower the vehicle and drive it until the tank is nearly empty. 7 Check the resistance. The resistance of the sending unit should be about 60 to 75 ohms. Note: /f there is any doubt concerning the resistance of the sending unit, remove the sending unit (see Steps 9

through 14) and check it by moving the float through its entire range of motion (see illustration). 8

If the readings are incorrect, replace the sending unit.

Replacement 9

Refer to illustrations 7.11 and 7.12 Remove the fuel tank from the vehicle (see Section 4).

ee 7.11 Use a brass punch to tap the » sending unit lock ring until the tabs align with the indentations on the fuel tank ring |

10 If necessary, carefully peel back the insulation material from the top of the fuel tank without damaging it. 11. Using a brass punch and hammer, tap the sending unit lock ring (see illustration) until the tabs align with the indents on the fuel tank retaining ring. 12 Lift the sending unit from the tank. Carefully angle the sending unit out of the opening without damaging the fuel level float located at the bottom of the assembly (see illustration). 13 Disconnect the electrical connector from the sending unit. 14 Installation is the reverse of removal.

8

Air cleaner housing - removal and installation

Refer to illustration 8.2 1 Remove the engine cover (see Chapter 2B, Section 2). Remove the air filter from the air cleaner housing (See Chapter 1). 2 Disconnect any vacuum hose or electrical connectors that are attached to the air cleaner (see illustration) and mark them with paint or marked pieces of tape for reassembly purposes. 3 _Lift the air cleaner housing from the engine. 4 Installation is the reverse of removal.

7.12 Carefully lift the sending unit from the fuel tank without damaging the float

8.2 Using a small screwdriver, pry the tabs on the electrical connectors and separate them from the computer (models with a Spark Control Computer)

4A

4A-6

Chapter 4 Part A

: Ne

Fuel and exhaust systems - carbureted engines

_

9.3 Loosen the clamp nut (arrow) and remove the cable from the clamp

o

9.2 Remove the retainer clip from the throttle shaft and slide the accelerator cable off the shaft

Lm

CABLE RETAINERCLIP PEDAL SHAFT AND BRACKET

9

Accelerator cable - removal, installation and adjustment CABLE ASSEMBLY

Refer to illustrations 9.2, 9.3 and 9.5

Removal il Remove the engine cover (see Chapter 2B, Section 2). 2 Remove the accelerator cable from the throttle linkage by prying the retainer clip off the shaft using a small screwdriver (see illustra-

ee e e e

BEND UP TO SECURE

tion).

3 Loosen the accelerator cable locknut and remove the cable from the bracket assembly (see illustration). 4 Detach the screws and the clips retaining the lower instrument trim panel on the driver’s side and remove the trim piece (see Chapter 11). 5 Pull the cable end out and then up from the accelerator pedal recess (see illustration). 6 — Push the cable through the firewall into the engine compartment.

EW OF ARR ;

(THROTTLE CABLE INSTALLED)

VIEW DIRECTION IN ARROW Y (SPRING INSTALLATION)

9.5 An exploded view of a typical accelerator cable and pedal

To disconnect the cable at the firewall, remove the cable retainer clip, if equipped, then use pliers to squeeze the tabs on the cable retainer

10

from inside the vehicle (see illustration 9.5, View Z).

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don’t smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don’t workin a garage where a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water heater or a clothes dryer) with a pilot light is present. Since gasoline is carcino-

Installation 7 Installation is the reverse of removal. Note: To prevent possible interference, flexible components (hoses, wires, etc.) must not be routed within two inches of moving parts, unless routing is controlled. 8 Operate the accelerator pedal and check for any binding condition by completely opening and closing the throttle. 9 If necessary, at the engine compartment side of the firewall, apply sealant around the accelerator cable to prevent water from entering

Carburetor - diagnosis and overhaul

genic, wear latex gloves when there’s a possibility of being exposed to fuel, and, if you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse jt off immediately with soap and water. Mop up any spills immediately and do not store fuelsoaked rags where they could ignite. When you perform any kind of

the passenger compartment.

work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a Class B type fire extinguisher on hand. -

Adjustment

Diagnosis

10 Warm the engine until normal operating temperature is attained and allow the engine to idle. Set the specified idle speed, if necessary. 11. Loosen the cable clamp (see illustration 9.3) and slide the accelerator cable away from the carburetor until all the cable slack has been removed, but don’t move the throttle lever on the carburetor. 12 Slide the cable back toward the carburetor to allow 1/4-inch play in the cable tension. Tighten the clamp assembly. 13 Raise the engine rpms and then allow the engine to settle back down to idle. Check for proper adjustment and carburetor throttle actuation and re-adjust the cable if necessary. 14 Shut off the engine and remove the air cleaner assembly. Press the accelerator all the way to the floor while you observe the movement of the throttle plate(s). The throttle plate(s) must be fully open (completely vertical). If not, readjustment is necessary.

1 A thorough road test and check of carburetor adjustments should be done before any major carburetor service. Specifications for some adjustments are listed on the Vehicle Emissions Control Information (VECI) label found in the engine compartment or on the air cleaner | housing. 2 Carburetor problems usually show up as flooding, hard starting, stalling, severe backfiring and poor acceleration. A carburetor that’s e e N n e leaking fuel and/or covered with wet looking deposits definitely needs attention. 3 Some performance complaints directed at the carburetor are actually a result of loose, out-of-adjustment or malfunctioning engine

or electrical components. Others develop when vacuum hoses leak, — are disconnected or are incorrectly routed. The proper approach to— analyzing carburetor problems should include the following items: .

4A-7

Choke Plate Choke Shaft & Lever Assembly

FEEDBACK DIAPHRAGM ASSEMBLY PARTS NOT AVAILABLE FOR SERVICE

Fast Idle Adjusting Screw Throttle Body Screw & L.W.

Dashpot Bracket Screw. Choke Diaphragm Bracket Screw

Pump Rod Clamp Screw Power Valve Diaphragm Body Screw & L.W. (Duty Cycle Solenoid) Throttle Plate Screw Curb Idle Adjusting Screw ECS Hinge Retaining Screw

Retaining Plate Screw

Choke Plate Screw Wire Hold-Down Clamp Screw ECS Vent Cover Screw Air Horn Screw & L.W.

Idle Solenoid Bracket Screw & L.W Solenoid Adjusting Screw Power Valve Lever Adjusting Screw ECS Vent Valve Adjusting Screw Fuel Inlet Fitting (Needle & Seat

Assy.) Gasket Throttle Body Gasket Main Body Gasket

Switch Vent Solenoid Gasket

Power Valve Spacer Gasket Throttle Plate Throttle Body & Shaft Assy. Idle Adjusting Needle Float & Hinge Assy. Float Hinge Shaft Fuel Inlet Needle & Seat Assy. Choke Diaphragm Hose Connector Spark Tube Hose Connector Main Jet ECS Vent Valve Switch Vent Seal ~ Power Valve Diaphragm & Stem SSSLBSSSBBNSRRBL Assy. Power Valve Piston Power Valve Assembly (Vacuum)

Power Valve Assembly (Mech,)

Idle Adj. Needle ‘0" Ring

Pump-Rod Seal» i Pump Discharge Valve Checkball ECS Lever Hinge Pin L Choke Diaphragm Link Pin Pump Stem & Retainer Plate Assy. Pump Operating Link Choke Diaphragm Link

Idle Needle Limiter Cap or Plug ECS Vent Cover Power Valve Diaphragm. Body Accelerator Pump Cup Choke Diaphragm Assy. Fast Idle Cam Retainer Float Shaft Retainer Power Valve Piston Retainer Wire Tje-Down Strap* Idle Adj. Needle Spring Power Valve Lever Adj. Screw Spring

Curb Idle Adj. Screw Spring Fast Idle Adj. Screw Spring

ECS Vent Spring : Power Valve Diaphragm Spring

Power Valve Piston Spring

Power Valve Lever Return Spring Power Valve Rod Drive Spring Switch Vent Solenoid Spring Idle Solenoid Adj. Screw Spring LESS BISRLBILS SBISHLSSLSESLSHRES

4A, Index Number

80 81

82 83 84

85 86 87 88

Part Name

Pump Rod Clam Wire Hold-Down Clamp

Choke Diaphragm Vacuum Hose Idle Screw Insulator* ECS Vent Lever

Pump Operating Lever Power Valve Lever Idle Stop Switch* Idle Stop Solenoid

Pump Operating Lever Nut

89

Duty Cycle Solenoid

Dashpot Lock Nut Pump Discharge Valve Weight

90

Switch Vent Solenoid & Armature Assy.

Power Valve Diaphragm Spacer* Fast Idle Cam Power Valve Rod Fast Idle Rod

91 92 93 94

Dashpot Assy. A/C Speed-Up Solenoid* T.P.T. Assy.* T.P.T. Bracket*

Pump Operating Rod

95

Power Valve Vacuum Hose Clamp

Pump Operating Lever Nut L.W. Insulator Washer’ Dashpot Bracket

96 97

Power Valve Vacuum Hose Spark Tube Vacuum Hose

10.7a An exploded view of the Holley Models 1945 and 6145 carburetors

Inspect all vacuum hoses and actuators for leaks and correct installation (see Chapters 1 and 6).

m)

Tighten the intake manifold and carburetor mounting nuts/bolts

o)

Check for a plugged exhaust system.

n) Check EGR valve operation (see Chapter 6).

evenly and securely. Perform a compression test and vacuum test (see Chapter 2C). Clean or replace the spark plugs as necessary (see Chapter 1). Check the spark plug wires (See Chapter 1). Inspect the ignition primary wires. Check the ignition timing (follow the instructions printed on the Emissions Control Information /abel). Check the fuel pump pressure/volume (see Section 2). Check the heat control valve in the air cleaner for proper operation (see Chapter 1). Check/replace the air filter element (see Chapter 1).

p) q)

Check the PCV system (see Chapter 6).

Check the choke - it should be completely open at normal engine operating temperature (see Chapter 1). 6 Check for fuel leaks and kinked or dented fuel lines (see Chapters 1 and 4) Check accelerator pump operation with the engine off (remove the air cleaner cover and operate the throttle as you look into the carburetor throat - you should see a stream of gasoline enter the carburetor). Check for incorrect fuel or bad gasoline. Check the valve clearances (if applicable) and camshaft lobe lift (see Chapters 1 and 2) Have a dealer service department or repair shop check the electronic engine and carburetor controls.

Check/replace the fuel filter (see Chapter 1). Also, the strainer in

4

the tank could be restricted.

started and run with the air cleaner off. While running the engine with-

Diagnosing carburetor problems may require that the engine be

4A-8

Chapter 4 Part A

Fuel and exhaust systems - carbureted engines

10.7b An exploded view of the Holley Models 2210 and 2245 carburetors

44>

index

Part Name

Part Name

Choke Plate Choke Shaft&Lever Assembly Fast Idle Lever Choke’ Housing Lever & Shaft Assembly Thermostat Cap Clamp Screw Fast Idle Adjusting Screw Curb Idle Adjusting Screw Pump Shaft Lever Screw BON Choke Piston Adjusting Screw OBNAMH Choke Lever screw & L.W. Fuel Bowl Baffle Screw & L.W. Throttle Body Screw & L.W. Air Horn Screw & L.W. (Short) Air Horn Screw & L.W. (Long) Throttle Plate Screw & L.W. Choke Plate Screw E.C.S. Hinge Retainer Screw E.C.S. Vent Cover Screw Vent Valve Adjusting Screw Choke Housing Screw & L.W. Choke Housing Gasket Thermostat Housing Gasket Fuel Inlet Filter Gasket Fuel Inlet Fitting Gasket Fuel Inlet Seat Gasket Main Body Gasket

Throttle Body Gasket Flange Gasket Throttle Plate Throttle Body & Shaft Assembly idle Adjusting Needle Float & Hinge Assembly Fuel Inlet Needle & Seat Assembly Fuel Inlet Fitting Main Jet Pump Discharge Needle Valve Air Vent Valve Power Valve Assembly Power Valve Piston Assembly Pump Piston Cup Float Hinge Pin E.C.S. Lever Hinge Pin Pump Stem Assembly Pump Link Idle Needle Limiter Cap E.C.S. Vent Cover Choke Housing Assembly Thermostat Cap Retainer Ring “E” Ring Retainer Pump Shaft Retainer Fast Idle Adjusting Screw Spring

out the air cleaner, backfires are possible. This situation is likely to occur if the carburetor is malfunctioning, but just the removal of the air cleaner can lean the fuel/air mixture enough to produce an engine backfire. Warning: Do not position any part of your body, especially your face, directly over the carburetor during inspection and servicing procedures. Wear eye protection!

Curb Idle Adjusting Screw Spring Idle Needle Adjusting Screw Spring Fuel Inlet Filter Spring Pump Drive Spring E.C.S, Vent Spring Fast Idle Lever Nut Pump Lever Nut Fast Idle Cam Fast Idle Rod Choke Rod

Pump Lever L.W. Fast Idle, Lever L.W. Washer Pump Drive Spring Washer Thermostat & Cap Assembly Rod Retainer Choke Vacuum Hose Fuel Bowl Baffle Fuel Inlet Filter Vent Lever Pump Lever

Pump Lever Shaft : Choke Thermostat Lever & Piston Assembly

Overhaul Refer to illustrations 10.7a through 10.7f

5 Once it’s determined that the carburetor needs an overhaul, sev- — eral options are available. If you’re going to attempt to overhaul the — carburetor yourself, first obtain a good-quality carburetor rebuild kit —

Chapter 4 Part A

4A-9

Fuel and exhaust systems - carbureted engines

Index Part Name

Choke Plate Choke Shaft & Lever Assembly Dechoke Lever Air Cleaner Bracket Screw Air Horn to Main Body Screw & L.W. ~ Throttle Stop Screw Fast Idle Adjusting Screw Bracket Retaining Throttle Body to Main Body OOMND TAAWNH— Screw & L.W. Choke Plate Screw Throttle Plate Screw Cover Screw Nozzle Bar Screw Fuel Inlet Fitting Gasket

56 Ne

J

18

Main Body Gasket

Nozzle Bar Gasket Throttle Body Gasket

E.C.S. Cover Gasket Throttle Plate Throttle Body & Shaft Assembly Throttle Return Spring Bushings Idle Adjusting Needle Float & Hinge Assembly Float Hinge Shaft & Retainer Fuel Inlet Needle & Seat Assembly Nozzle Bar Assembly Main Jet Vent Valve Power Valve Piston Power Valve Assembly Pump Cup Pump Discharge Ball Vent Valve Lever Pin Vent Valve Operating Lever Pin Air Cleaner Ring Retaining Pin Pump Steam & Head Assembly Choke Diaphragm Link Pump Stem Link Pump Link Idle Needle Limiter Accelerator Pump Housing Cover Choke Diaphragm Assembly Complete Fast Idle Cam Retainer

4A

Pump Operating Lever

Retainer Power Valve Piston Retainer Throttle Stop Screw Spring Fast Idle Adjusting Screw Spring Idle Adjusting Needle Spring Vent Valve Operating Lever Spring

Vent Valve Spring

Throttle Return Spring Pump Drive Spring Power Valve Piston Spring Choke Shaft Spring Dechoke Lever Nut Air Cleaner Ring Fast Idle Cam Fast Idle Rod Pump Discharge Weight Dechoke Lever Nut L.W. Pump Link Retainer Air Cleaner Bracket Vacuum Hose Float Baffle Pump Lever Vent Valve Lever Vent Valve Operating Lever Pump Operating Lever Pump Operating Lever Shaft Vent Valve Retainer )

T.P.T. Bracket Screw

—~

Power Valve Adjusting Screw Power Valve Assembly

(Staged)

Index Number

Part Name

Choke Diaphragm Link Pin Roll-Pin Power Valve Stem Retainer Power Valve Spring T.P.T. Lever Nut T.P.T. Assembly Locknut

Mechanical Power Valve Stem Mechanical Power Valve Stem Cap T.P.T. Lever Lockwasher T.P.T. Bracket T.P.T. Lever T.P.T. Assembly T.P.T. Wire Assembly

Duty-Cycle Solenoid

10.7c An exploded view of the Holley Models 2280 and 6280 carburetors

4A-10

Chapter 4 PartA

Fuel and exhaust systems - carbureted engines

. Screw & Lockwasher (2)—Alllluae Lompensator

. Altitude Compensator Assy. (Some Models) Gasket—Altitude Compensator Screw (2)—Diaphragm Cover Screw & Seal Washer (1)—Cover Cover—Diaphragm . Spring—Diaphragm , . Diaphragm Assy.—Enrichment Valve . Housing—Idle Enrichment Valve wm OONMA

5

ad

10. Valve Seat—Enrichment

@ a

11. Valve—Enrichment Seat 12. Spring—Enrichment Valve 13. Gasket—Enrichment Valve Housing

~ 0) nm

14. Screw—Transducer Bracket 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24, 25. 26. 27. 28. 29. 30. 31. 32. 33. 34. 35. 36. 37. 38. 39. 40. 41. 42. 43. 44. 45. 46. 47. 48. 49. 50. 51. 52. 53. 54. 55. 56. 57. 58. 59. 60. 61. 62. 63. 64. 65. 66. 67. 68. 69.

Transducer, Idle Stop Switch & Bracket Assy. Hose—Bowl Vent Solenoid Screw & Lockwasher (3)—Bowl Vent Solenoid Bow! Vent Solenoid Assy. Valve—Bowl Vent Gasket—Bowl Vent Solenoid Assy. Fitting—Fuel Inlet Gasket—lInlet Fitting Screw—Rod Retainer Retainer—Choke Connector Rod Rod—Choke Connector Screw—Metering Rod Cover Plate Plate—Cover Screw—Metering Rod Cover Plate Plate—Cover Screw—Plate Plate—Step Up Piston Cover Step Up Piston & Rod Assy. Rod (2)—Step Up Spring—Step Up Piston Retainer—Choke Pull Off Rod Washer—Choke Pull Off Rod Retainer—Choke Pull Off Rod Rod—Choke Pull Off Retainer—Pump Rod Rod—Pump Arm Connector Screw—Pump Arm Arm—Pump Screw—Pump Jet Housing Housing—Pump Jet Gasket—Housing Needle—Pump Disc. Check Screw (10)—Bowl Cover Bowl Cover Assy. Pin (2)—Float Lever Float Assy. (2) Rotary Disc—Fuel Inlet Valve & Gasket (2) Tube—Pump Passage Gasket—Bowl Cover Valve—Bowl Vent - (Mechanical Model) S Link—Pump Check Valve Assy.—Pump Intake Pump Assy. Spring—Pump 0 Ring (2)—Main Well Seal Bow! Assy.—Fuel Gasket—Throttle Body Lever—Step Up Piston Pin—Lever Screw—Choke Pull Off Bracket Choke Pull Off Assy. Cap (2)—Idle Limiter Needle (2)—Idle Adjusting Spring (2)—Idle Adjusting Needle Throttle Body Assy.

2

@ } 8

10.7d An exploded view of the Carter ThermoQuad carburetor

}

Chapter 4 Part A

Fuel and exhaust systems - carbureted engines p15 WITH/STEPPER MOTOR

4A-11

. SCREW (3) - CHOKE COVER RETAINER . RETAINER (3) - CHOKE COVER CHOKE COVER ASSY. GASKET - CHOKE COVER BAFFLE - CHOKE HOUSING RETAINER - CHOKE ROD SCREW (2) - CHOKE HOUSING HOUSING ASSY. - CHOKE =PNOAHAABD © SEAL - VAC. PASSAGE SCREW (2) - CHOKE PULL OFF

. . . . . . . . . . _ . . . .

TAMPER RESISTANT CHOKE PULLOFF ASSY.

CHOKE PULL OFF ASSY. LINK - CHOKE PULL OFF RETAINER - FAST IDLE ROD ROD - FAST IDLE SCREW (3) - DUST COVER COVER ASSY. - DUST GASKET -COVER RETAINER - PUMP ROD ROD - PUMP SCREW - METERING ROD ARM WASHER WASHER - METERING ROD ARM PISTON ASSY. - VACUUM ROD (2) - METERING SPRING - VACUUM PISTON SCREW & LOCKWASHER (4) - BOWL

COVER . SCREW & LOCKWASHER (2) - BOWL COVER , BOWL COVER ASSY. . SCREW - PUMP ARM WASHER . WASHER - PUMP ARM . SHAFT - PUMP . ARM- METERING ROD . ARM - PUMP LINK . LINK - PUMP . PUMP ASSY. . SPRING - PUMP GASKET - BOWL COVER . BALL - PUMP INTAKE CHECK (LARGE) . BAFFLE - FUEL BOWL ROTORY VALVE & GASKET ASSY.

. . . . . . . . . . .

RETAINER - FLOAT PIN FLOAT ASSY. PIN -FLOAT JET (2) - MAIN SCREW (2) - VENTURI CLUSTER COVER - VENTURI GASKET -VENTURI COVER CLUSTER ASSY. - VENTURI GASKET -VENTURI CLUSTER BALL - PUMP DISC. CHECK (SMALL) SCREW & LOCKWASHER (2) -THROTTLE BODY

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.7e An exploded view of the Carter BBD carburetor

BOWL ASSY. GASKET -THROTTLE BODY CAP (2) - IDLE LIMITER NEEDLE (2) - IDLE ADJUSTING SPRING (2) - IDLE ADJ. NEEDLE THROTTLE BODY ASSY. SCREW - FAST IDLE CAM - FAST IDLE SCREW & LOCKWASHER (2) - DASH-POT DASH-POT & BRACKET SCREW (4) - STEPPER MOTOR STEPPER MOTOR ASSY. PIN- METERING (MAIN SYSTEM) PIN - METERING (LOW SPEED) SPRING - STEPPER MOTOR GASKET STEPPER MOTOR

4A

4A-12°

Chapter 4 Part A

Fuel and exhaust systems - carbureted engines

. Fuel Filter Nut . Fuel Filter Nut Gasket Euel Filter . Fuel Filter Spring

Solenoid Screw.

Idle Speed Rear Vac. Rear Vac. . Rear Vac. Front Vac. . Front Vac.

Solenoid Break Screw Break Assembly Break Rod Break Screw Break Assy. .

ront Vac. Break Rod . Choke Lever Screw . Choke Lever

oke Ro . Choke Cover Retainer Rivet . Choke Cover Retainer

. Choke Cover Assembly

. Choke Cover Gasket . Choke Housing Screw —SoMO Rw SOON Sopown— . Choke eg ae ot, et eee ces ct cs es ENS ENS oke Lever . Intermediate 23. Choke Coil Lever Screw . Choke Coil Lever . Intermediate Choke Shaft . . . , .

Fast Idle Cam Choke Housin Seal Sec. Lockout Cam Inter. Choke Shaft Seal Vacuum Passage Tube Pump Lever

ump Ro . Sec. Metering Rod Holder Scre Ww . Sec. Metering Rod Holder imoee: HO Rods . Air Bleed Valve Cover . Idle Air Bleed Valve. _ . Lower Bleed Valve O-Ring . Upper Bleed Valve O-Ring

. . . . . . .

MODEL-E4M DUAL CAPACITY PUMP

g

PUMP VALVE

©

GASKET

GENERAL EXPLODED VIEW

Vent Cover Screw Vent Cover Vent Cover Gasket Vent Valve Spring Airhorn Screw-Long Airhorn Screw-Short Air Baffle ;

THE GENERAL DESIGN AND PARTS SHOWN WILL VARY

. Airhorn Screw-Special

. Airhorn peek,

. Pump Stem Seal Pump Stem Seal Retainer

PaleSeRl unger Seal

-

. T.P.S. Plunger Seal Retainer . Airhorn Gasket

. Pump Stem Spacer . Pump Spring Retainer

=

Replaces #(85)

. Pump $ ring . Pump Stem Assy. . Pump Return Spring

. Aneroid Assy. . . . . .

Screw

Aneroid Assy. | Auxiliary Metering Rod Metering Rod Sprin Auxiliary Power Piston Auxiliary Power Piston Spring 65. Power Piston Assy.

Rods | 65A. Main Metering { 66. Power Piston ssy. Spring . Main Jets

. Pump Discharge Ball Screw

. Pump Discharge Ball . Throttle Position Sensor Ssy.

; TPS Spring

,

. Well Insert

. Fuel Bowl Insert . Float Hinge Pin

. Float & Lever Assy. . Needle & Seat Assy. . Hot Idle Compensator Cover Screw

. Main ee Rod & Spring . Pump Well Batfle Solenoid Plunger . Sol. Lean Mixture Adj.

. Hot Idle Compensator Cover . Hot Idle Compensator Assy. . Hot Idle Compensator asket _ . Idle Limiter Cap (2)

. ECM Connector Screw . ECM Connector Gasket ; pel Connector & Solenoid

. Throttle Body Screw

Screw, See Special Instruction.

ssy.

E Lean Mixture Screw . Solenoid Spring

. Idle Needle (2) . Idle Needle

Spring (2)

. Throttle Body

i Ge Body Gasket . Main a . Rotory Inlet Valve .10.7f An exploded view of the Rochester QuadraJet carburetor

|

-

Chapter 4 Part A

Fuel and exhaust systems - carbureted engines

(which will include all necessary gaskets, internal parts, instructions and a parts list). You'll also need some special solvent and a means of blowing out the internal passages of the carburetor with air. 6 _An alternative is to obtain a new or rebuilt carburetor. They are readily available from dealers and auto parts stores. Make absolutely sure the exchange carburetor is identical to the original. A tag is usually attached to the top’ of the carburetor or a number is stamped on the float bowl. It will help determine the exact type of carburetor you have.

4A-13

heater is heating the choke coil, occasionally tap the accelerator to allow the choke to open. 2 _ If the choke heater tests okay, but the choke valve does not open in normal operation, check for voltage to the choke heater when the engine is cold and the ignition switch is in the ON position. 3. If no voltage is present in Step 2, repair the open in the power circuit to the choke heater (be sure to check the fuse first!).

When obtaining a rebuilt carburetor or a rebuild kit, make sure the kit

or carburetor matches your application exactly. Seemingly insignificant differences can make a large difference in engine performance. 7 If you choose to overhaul your own carburetor, allow enough time y to disassemble it carefully, soak the necessary parts in the cleaning solvent ‘(usually for at least one-half day or according to the instructions listed on the carburetor cleaner) and reassemble it, which will usually take much longer than disassembly (see illustrations). When disassembling the carburetor, match each part with the illustration in the carburetor kit and lay the parts out in order on a clean work surface. Overhauls by inexperienced mechanics can result in an engine which runs poorly or not at all. To avoid this, use care and patience when disassembling the carburetor so you can reassemble it correctly. 8 Because carburetor designs are constantly modified by the manufacturer in order to meet increasingly more stringent emissions regulations, it isn’t feasible to include a step-by-step overhaul of each type. ‘You’ll receive a detailed, well illustrated set of instructions with the carburetor overhaul kit.”

11

Electric choke heater - testing

Refer to illustration 11.1 Caution: /f there is any loss of electrical current to the choke heater,

operation of any type, including idling, should be avoided. Loss of

power to the choke will cause the choke to remain partly closed during engine operation. A very rich air-to-fuel mixture will be created and result in abnormally high exhaust system temperatures, which may cause damage to the catalytic converter or other underbody parts of the vehicle. Note: This system is used on most

1974 and later models,

except

some mid-1980’s and later four-barrel carburetors (Rochester Quadrajet). For more information and detailed test procedures for the entire system, refer to Chapter 6. 1 Remove the engine cover (see Chapter 2B, Section 2). With the engine cold, connect a jumper wire from the choke heater wire to the positive battery terminal. The choke heater housing should begin becoming hot and the choke plate in the carburetor should slowly open after some time. Be sure it opens completely in about five minutes or replacement is necessary (see illustration). Note: As the

12

Carburetor adjustments

Note 1: These carburetor adjustments are strictly on-vehicle adjustments. During overhaul, refer to the instructions included in the overhaul kit for complete procedures and any additional adjustments that are required. Note 2: For additional information concerning overhaul and adjustments on the Holley and Rochester carburetors, refer to the Haynes Holley Carburetor Manual and the Haynes Rochester Carburetor Manual.

Choke plate opening Note: For more information on the choke system, refer to Chapter 1 and the previous Section on the electric choke heater system. 1 The choke plate opening is a critical carburetor adjustment directly involved with cold-running conditions and choke enrichment during cranking. The choke unloader is a mechanical device that partially opens the choke valve at wide open throttle to eliminate choke enrichment during hard acceleration. 2. Engines which have been stalled or flooded by excessive choke enrichment can be cleared by the use of the choke unloader. With the throttle valve at wide open throttle, the choke plate should be slightly open to allow a sufficient amount of intake air into the carburetor venturi.

Holley carburetors 3

These

mounted

models

are

equipped

with

a choke

thermostat

coil

in the intake manifold, which actuates the choke via a rod.

With the carburetor installed and the engine cold, the coil should hold the choke lightly closed (possibly open slightly, but no more than about 1/16-inch). 4 _ If the choke is closed tightly or open too far, remove the coil from the intake manifold; the center mount for the thermostat coil should be

slotted so you can adjust the coil’s tension with a screwdriver.

If

there’s no adjustment at the choke coil’s center mount, bend the rod to adjust the choke. If the coil is broken, corroded or deformed, replace it.

Carter carburetors 5 These models are equipped with a choke mounted in the intake manifold, which actuates the With the carburetor installed and the engine cold, the the choke lightly closed (possibly open slightly, but no 1/16-inch).

thermostat coil choke via a rod. coil should hold more than about

6 If the choke is closed tightly or open too far, remove the coil from the intake manifold; the center mount for the thermostat coil should be slotted so you can adjust the coil’s tension with a screwdriver. If there’s no adjustment at the choke coil’s center mount, bend thé rod to adjust the choke. If the coil is broken, corroded or deformed, replace it. Rochester carburetors 2GV models 7 These models mounted

are

equipped

with

a choke

thermostat

coil

in the intake manifold, which actuates the choke via a rod.

With the carburetor installed and the engine cold, the coil should hold the choke almost, but not quite, completely closed. 8 If the choke is closed tightly or open too far, remove the coil from ~~ 11.1 Apply 12 volts to the choke heater connector - the choke

‘should open in about five minutes

the intake manifold; the center mount for the thermostat coil should be

slotted so you can adjust the coil’s tension with a screwdriver.

If

4A-14 © ALIGN MARK ON COVER WITH SPECIFIED POINT ON HOUSING. NOTE: ON MODELS WITH SLOTTED COIL PICK-UP LEVER, MAKE SURE COIL TANG IS INSTALLED IN SLOT IN LEVER (SEE INSET # 2) LOOSEN THREE RETAINING SCREWS (NOTE: TIGHTEN SCREWS AFTER ADJUSTMENT).

®

ROTATE COVER AND COIL ASSEMBLY COUNTERCLOCKWISE UNTIL CHOKE VALVE COIL JUST CLOSES 7e—N

THERMOSTATIC CHOKE COIL LEVER cS:

PLACE CAM FOLLOWER ON HIGHEST STEP OF CAM

12.12a

Adjusting the idle mixture screw on the Holley Model 1945

e n

FUEL BOWL VENT TUBE

TO DISTRIBUTOR ORIFICE SPARK ADVANCE CONTROL (OSAC) VALVE

12.12b

TO CHARCOAL CANISTER PURGE PORT IDLE MIXTURE ADJUSTING SCREW

Component locations on the Holley Model 2245 (note that this idle mixture screw has a limiter cap)

there’s no adjustment at the choke coil’s center mount, bend the rod to adjust the choke. If the coil is broken, corroded or deformed, replace it.

Quadrajet models Refer to illustration 12.9 9 All the Quadrajet carburetors installed on to the models covered in this manual are equipped with an integral choke system. Since choke coils lose their tension over time, you may find, on older coils, that lining up the marks does not provide enough choke. Readjust the coil by rotating the cover counterclockwise until the choke plate closes completely, then rotate it clockwise until the plate just moves away

screws, do not adjust the mixture any richer than the caps will allow (do not break off the caps). If the engine runs too rich at the factory settings, there’s something wrong with the choke or the carburetor is faulty. If the engine is running too lean at the factory settings, there’s a vacuum leak or the carburetor is faulty. If necessary, have the system diagnosed by a qualified shop. 11. After the engine has reached normal operating temperature, set the parking brake and block the wheels, then remove the air cleaner and turn the idle speed adjusting screw out as far as possible without the engine running rough, since the throttle plate(s) must be as nearly closed as possible when adjusting the idle mixture. : 12 Working with one idle mixture screw at a time (one-barrel models have only one screw, but all others have two screws), turn the screw

clockwise until the idle speed drops a noticeable amount (see illustrations). Now slowly turn the screw out until the maximum idle speed is reached, but no further.

13 On two- and four-barrel models, repeat the procedure for the other idle mixture screw. Keep track of the number of turns each screw is off the seat to be sure they are each out approximately the same number of turns. This will verify that the idle circuit is operating properly and balance is maintained. Note: /f it was necessary to turn the idle speed screw in (to keep the engine running) before setting the idle mixture, adjust the idle speed, then perform the mixture adjustment procedure again. This will ensure that the idle mixture is set with the throttle plates fully closed, so the engine is drawing the fuel mixture only from — the idle circuit.

-

from the fully closed position (about 1/16-inch, measured at the rear of the air horn) (see illustration). 10 Re-tighten the three cover screws. Note: The metal clips beneath the screws must be positioned so they exert their maximum spring force against the cover. If they’re installed backwards, the choke cover will have a tendency to rotate, changing the choke setting.

Idle mixture Refer to illustrations 12.12a through 12.12e Note: Be sure to check the ignition timing, the condition of the spark plugs and ignition wires and, if necessary, perform a complete tune-up before attempting to make the following carburetor adjustment. Often, problems with the mixture are due to a vacuum leak (see Troubleshooting at the front of this manual and the vacuum gauge

checks in Chapter 2C).

}

Note: On carburetors that have the factory concealment plugs installed over the idle mixture screws, do not adjust the idle mixture, as it has been factory pre-set. Also,.on models with limiter caps on the mixture

12.12c Adjusting the idle mixture screw on the Holley Model 6280

iq ,.

I

era

Nea: Chapter 4 PartA

Fuel and exhaust systems - carbureted engines

4A-15

BOWL VENT TUBES CHOKE. BLADE

CHOKE

DIAPHRAGM

IDLE MIXTURE ADJUSTING SCREWS

ff TO DISTRIBUTOR OSAC VALVE

FUEL JNLET

CANISTER PURGE ¥ NIPPLE

CONCEALMENT PLUGS

12.12d }

Component locations on the Carter BBD. Note that these mixture screws are covered by concealment plugs CHOKE

FAST IDLE SOLENOID

VALVE

*TO CHARCOAL CANISTER PURGE PORT

CHOKE VACUUM

BIB EHBSOM LINK CHOKE VACUUM

DIAPHRAGM

NG

FAST IDLE CAM LINK

Sie

BOWL

VENT VALVE

TUBE

FAST IDLE CAM

ECONOMIZER“COVER HOT IDLE COMPENSATOR VALVE COVER {H.C

4A Aten, CLOSED CRANKCASE: VENT TUBE FITTING

DISTRIBUTOR VACUUM ADVANCE TUBE FITTING AIR CLEANER TO THROTTLE LEVER CARBURETOR VACUUM IDLE SPEED ADJUSTING TUBE FITTING SCREW FAST IDLE SPEED {CURB IDLE} ADJUSTING SCREW

12.17a Component locations on the Holley Model 1920

12.17b

Adjusting the idle speed screw on the Holley Model 1945 TO EGR VACUUM AMPLIFIER (VENTURI SYSTEM)

ACCELERATOR PUMP ROCKER ARM

TO CRANKCASE VENT (PCV) VALVE

Idle speed _ Refer to illustrations 12.17a through 12.17f Note: /n order to adjust the idle speed (curb idle speed) on engines equipped with feedback carburetor systems (Models 6280, 6145, BBD, _Thermoquad, Quadrajet etc.), it will be necessary to prevent certain systems (EVAP, EGR, Oxygen sensor feedback, idle stop solenoid, etc.)

_ from operating. Refer to the VEC! label in the engine compartment of _ your vehicle for a list of the steps necessary to make this adjustment. “14 Engine idle speed is the speed at which the engine operates when no accelerator pedal pressure is applied, as when stopped at a traffic light. This speed is critical to the performance of the engine itself, as

well as many engine subsystems.

15

FAST IDLE CAM TO AIR CLEANER HEATED INLET AIR SYSTEM

Ahand-held tachometer must be used when adjusting idle speed

to get an accurate reading. The exact hook-up for these meters varies with the manufacturer, so follow the particular directions included.

16 All vehicles covered in this manual should have a tune-up decal or Emissions Control Information label located on the inside of the hood. The printed instructions for setting idle speed can be found on this _ decal, and should be followed since they are for your particular engine. 17. After adjusting the idle mixture, adjust the idle speed. Turn the _idle speed adjusting screw (sge Illustrations) clockwise to increase

=

POSITIVE THROTTLE RETURN

CURB IDLE SPEED

BEANS SCREyy

SPRING FAST IDLE SPEED ADJUSTING SCREW

12.17¢c Component locations on the Holley Model 2245

4A-16

Chapter 4 Part A

Fuel and exhaust systems - carbureted engines

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION

FAST

IDLE

CAM

IDLE SPEED

CHOKE VACUUM:

SCREW

DIAPHRAGM

MANUAL TRANSMISSION BOWL VALVEVENT

CHOKE

OPERATING iEVER

VALVE

FAST IDLE

CONNECTOR

CHOKE

FAST IDLE SPEED SCREW

VACUUM DIAPHRAGM

THROTTLE ‘BODY HOT IDLE COMPENSATOR

HEATED AIR NIPPLE :

THROTTLE RETURN SPRING

: PCV

POWER BRAKE NIPPLE

NIPPLE

.-

ootCRANKCASE VENT :

TUBE FITTING

ACCELERATOR PUMP ROD

~ FAST IDLE SPEED

ADJUSTING screw ACCELERATOR PUMP ROCKER ARM

12.17d

12.17e

Component locations on the Carter BBD

t

THROTTLE

\,

:ep tec TUBE FITTING

ACCELERATOR

BOWL VENT TUBE

PUMP ARM

CURB IDLE SPEED ADJUSTING SCREW

LEVER

Component locations on the Holley Model 2210

the idle speed and counterclockwise to decrease it. Set the idle speed to the specifications on the VECI label located in the engine compartment. If the label is missing, set the idle speed to approximately 750 rpm with the transmission in Park or Neutral.

Fast-idle speed

CURB IDLE | ADJUSTMENT SCREW :

FAST IDLE SASL OE

Refer to illustrations 12.18a and 12.18b Note 1: To adjust the fast idle speed on engines equipped with feedback carburetor systems (Models 6280, 6145, BBD, Thermoquad,

- TO AIR CLEANER HEATED INLET AIR SYSTEM

Quadrajet etc.), it may be necessary to prevent certain systems (EVAP,

FAST IDLE CAM

ee,

AIR VALVE

EGR, Oxygen sensor feedback, idle stop solenoid, etc.) from operating.

FASTIDLE CONTROL LEVER

CHOKE VALVE WIDE OPEN

12.17f Component locations on the Carter Thermoquad

(5)sauce BETWEEN UPPER EDGE OF CHOKE VALVE & INSIDE AIR HORN WALL NOTE:

HOLD GAUGE VERTICAL

e

()seno TANG ON FAST IDLE CAM TO ADJUST

ee ee y e

(4)ctose CHOKE BY PUSHING UPWARD ON CHOKE COIL LEVER

FAST IDLE SPEED ADJUSTING SCREW ON SECOND HIGHEST STEP OF CAM

JAKE FAST IDLE ADJUSTMENT REMOVE THERMOSTATIC COVER

PLACE CAM FOLLOWER ON SECOND STEP OF CAM NEXT TO HIGH STEP

INSTALL COVER AND REFER TO AUTOMATIC CHOKE ADJUSTMENT

FAST IDLE ADJUSTING SCREW

12.18a

Fast idle speed adjustment on the Carter BBD

12.18b

Fast idle speed adjustment on the Rochester Quadrajet

-

aT ee ee

4

4

-

Chapter 4 PartA

Fuel and exhaust systems - carbureted engines

13.6 Use a flare-nut wrench and a back-up wrench when detaching the fuel line from the carburetor

4A-17

13.8 Remove the carburetor nuts (arrows) from the base of the carburetor body (other two nuts not visible)

j

Refer to the VECI label for your particular model for a list of the steps

4

If the vehicle is equipped with an automatic transmission, discon-

_ necessary to make this adjustment. } Note 2: Many of the locations of the fast idle adjusting screw for the - various carburetors are pictured in the preceding illustrations.

nect the kickdown cable from the throttle lever. 5 Clearly label all vacuum hoses and fittings, then disconnect the hoses.

18 Set the parking brake and block the wheels. Remove the air cleaner and place the fast-idle speed adjusting screw on the second highest step of the fast-idle cam (see illustrations). 19 Connect a tachometer according to the tool manufacturer’s instructions. 20 Start and run the engine to normal operating temperature. 21 With the choke fully open, turn the fast-idle adjusting screw until the correct fast-idle speed is obtained. Double-check to make sure the fast idle adjusting screw remains on the second highest step of the cam. Refer to the VECI label in the engine compartment. If the label is not available, set the fast-idle speed to approximately 1,700 rpm. 22 To verify the fast-idle speed is correct, return the engine to idle, then reposition the adjusting screw on the second highest step of the _ fast-idle cam. Readjust the fast-idle speed, if necessary.

6 _ Disconnect the fuel line from the carburetor (see illustration). The fuel line fitting is usually very tight. Be sure to use a flare nut wrench on the fuel line nut and hold the inlet fitting with a wrench to prevent it from turning (which would cause the fuel line to twist). 7 Label the wires and terminals, then unplug all the electrical con-

13

Carburetor - removal and installation

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don’t smoke or allow _open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don’t work in a

garage where a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water heater or a clothes dryer) with a pilot light is present. Since gasoline is carcinogenic, wear latex gloves when there’s a possibility of being exposed to fuel, and, if you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with ‘soap and water. Mop up any spills immediately and do not store fuel-

nectors.

8 Remove the mounting fasteners (see illustration) and detach the carburetor from the intake manifold. Remove the carburetor mounting gasket. Stuff a rag into the intake manifold openings.

Installation 9 Use a gasket scraper to remove all traces of gasket material and sealant from the intake manifold (and the carburetor, if it’s being reinstalled), then remove the shop rag from the manifold openings. Clean the mating surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone. 10 Place anew gasket on the intake manifold.

11. Position the carburetor on the gasket and install the mounting fasteners. 12 To prevent carburetor distortion or damage, tighten the fasteners to approximately 16 ft-lbs in a criss-cross pattern, 1/4-turn at a time. 13 The remaining installation steps are the reverse of removal. 14 Check and; if necessary, adjust the idle speed (see Section 12). 15 If the vehicle is equipped with an automatic transmission, refer to Chapter 7B for the kickdown cable adjustment procedure. 16 Start the engine and check carefully for fuel leaks.

soaked rags where they could ignite. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a Class B type _ fire extinguisher on hand. “a

14

_ Removal

Refer to illustrations 14.1a and 14.1b Note 1: Refer to Chapter 5 for additional checks and replacement procedures for components and output actuators incorporated into the SCC system that are not covered in this Section. Note 2: The Electronic Feedback Carburetor systems were installed on some models starting in 1981. The computer, which is mounted on the air cleaner, will usually read Electronic Fuel Control system. 1. The Electronic Feedback Carburetor (EFC) emission system relies on an electronic signal, which is generated by an exhaust gas oxygen

Refer to illustrations 13.6 and 13.8

1

Remove the fuel filler cap to relieve fuel tank pressure. Remove the engine cover (See Chapter 2B, Section 2). 2 Remove the air cleaner from the carburetor. Be sure to label all _ vacuum hoses attached to the air cleaner housing. -3 Disconnect the accelerator cable from the throttle lever (see

- Section 9). ey

ie

Electronic Feedback Carburetor (EFC) system general information

4A

4A-18

Chapter 4 Part A

Fuel and exhaust systems - carbureted engines Pais VACUUM

12 WAY

TRANSDUCER

A

CONNECTOR

WIRING HARNESS

SS

oa

CL

CARBURETOR

Ub,

COOLANT SWITCH

ELECTRIC CHOKE CONTROL

f/ DELAY VALVE

VALVE COVER

EMP SENSOR HEATED AIR 4 FSB DELAY VALVE —_upsTREAM

=)

ao ie

AIR SW/RELIEF VALVE

4 a8 VACUUM Papeete OPTIONAL OPERATED ACCESSORIES

&

1.6ae 1985 through 1987 vacuum hose routing schematic for 3.7L six-cylinder engines with manual transmission ESA (Federal models)

Ly O Y HEATED

VAPOR

CANISTERS ox

E

AIR DIAPH

AIR

ee

AIR Sw/ReLier

>

”

AIR

VALVE tASry) OPTIONAL VACUUM OPERATED ACCESSORIES

O

- a ne

ENGINE 3.7L-1

aay =

ey,

di ESA

AIR PUMP

—

+ es

VAPOR CANISTER

ENGINE 3.7L-1¥

> HEATED AIR

g

;

(COLD CLOSED)

—_—

= s

‘AIR DIAPH

iS : z

BRAKE

rE

oO

UPSTREAM es

POWER BOOSTER

L. |

7)

FEMP SENSOR

WALVE

O

ae = BLEED SOLENOID __AIR SW. SOLENOID POWER CHOKE pirep -VALVE__DIAPH

[4

CHEATED AIR

‘ SOURCE

z

an

eS

MANIFOLD

rb) g aa

AIR SW. SOLENOID

o

Kc

VALVE COVER | eGR AMPLIFIER =| p

io

Ee 5

a;

CONTROL

Ale CONTROL

z

o oO Q =

'

TO CRUISE Ps =

TO HEATER A/C CONTROL

1.6af 1985 through 1987 vacuum hose routing schematic for 3.7L six-cylinder engines with (California models)

TO CRUISE i a ASRV / PHY SOLENOID

Pee

SOURCE

TO HEATER A/C CONTROL

Gi POWER BRAKE BOOSTER

YO HEATER

A/C CONTROL HEATED AIR

BREATHER

TEMP SENSOR

BREATHER

COOLANT 4 SWITCH (COLD CLOSED) HEATED AIR DIAPH

DIAGRAM 4306826 HOSE VACUUM ROUTING

i:

TO FUEL >

TANK

aac

ee

| | | | | | AIR INJECTION

e

YCLEANER " OPERATED ACCESSORIES

1.6ai 1985 through 1987 vacuum hose routing schematic for 5.2L engine (high-altitude California models)

1.6aj 1985 through 1987 vacuum hose routing schematic for 5.2L V8 engines with catalyst, ESA and Aspirator (Canadian models) (1985 models are not equipped with ESA)

DISTRIBUTOR

aes © () OGY HEATED AIR TEMP SENSOR

BOOSTER TO CRUISE CONTROL TO HEATER A/C CONTROL

PHV/EGR

oad

FILTER S=

AIR SWITCH

RELIEF VALVE SOLENOID

®

DISTRIBUTOR

605)

Gy

[ {a°00 LoP

aN

C

VALVE COVER

“=

POWER

Beaks

BOOSTER wa TO. CRUISE

CONTROL TO HEATER

A/C CONTROL

EGR AMPLIFIER TOAIR CLEANER

BREATHER CAP TRAP DOOR DELAY VALVE

VALVE AIR PUMPL Cane oP EXHAUST MANIFOLD THERMAL BOWL VALVE. TO S VENT VALVE AIR PUMP hf june EXHAUST ELECTRIC BOWL MANIFOLD VENT VALVE eiencaaeecane OPTIONAL VACUUM ENGINE 5.9L-4 Gy SHBYSLER 4405731 VACUUM DIAGRAM ROUTING HOSE OPERATED ACCESSORIES

1.6ak 1985 through 1987 vacuum hose routing schematic for 5.9L V8 engines without catalyst and ESA (Federal models)

UPSTREAM AIR 4

O©

C) O>

ENGINE fp stisysyas 4405729 VACUUM HOSE DIAGRAM ROUTING

LA

a}

THERMAL BOWL VENT VALVE ELECTRIC BOWL VENT VALVE

5.9L-4

7

DOWN: STREAM

AIR PUMPL. a AIR AiR SW = RELIEF VALVE (ASRV) OPTIONAL VACUUM

OPERATED ACCESSORIES

1.6al 1985 through 1987 vacuum hose routing schematic for 5.9L V8 engine (high-altitude Federal models)

Chapter 6 Emissions and engine control systems

(oe) (e)

DISTRIBUTOR £ Oo

N

(offe)

wo

Oo°/

oO as ~~

6-15

POWER BRAKE BOOSTER

Fito crul CONTRO

HEATED

AIR

CATEMP SENSOR

i]

=

TO HEATER

A/C

CONTROL

Ps! Oo

aE

a

Oo

ra = 2

O

fo 4

td

EGR AMPLIFIER

TO AIR CLEANER —— BREATHER CAP TRAP DOOR

”n

O

VALVE COVER

a

= =) =.

THERMAL sow VENT VALVE

SNORKEL

DIVERTER VALVE AIR PUMPF

le ELECTRIC BOWL

]

VENT VALVE

EXHAUST MANIFOLD

OPTIONAL VACUUM OPERATED ACCESSORIES

&

1.6am

POWER

TID.C. VALVE

1985 through 1987 vacuum hose routing schematic for 5.9L V8 engines with air conditioning (California models)

TO REMOTE VENT ASSY. PURGE

SOLENOID

rp

eee

MANIFOLD

ea ote

CONTROL

aig soc

al

POWER BOOSTER

RESERVOIR

aac pi

SOURCE

CONTROL >

HEATED AIR

| TEMP SENSOR

a |TRANSDUCER

ie VALVE

A ©)

HEATED

\

valve Se

nies

AIR DIAPH. Tsetrca f TO ee H | . ae aaa -— VALVE* DO WNSTREAM AIR . s SWITCH AIR PRESSURERE RELIEF/ ; | 1\ VALVE RELIEF VALVE ROLLOVER 608) VAPOR CANISTER *WHEN EQUIPPED OPTIONAL VACUUM OPERATED ACCESSORIES 1.6an

1988 through 1991 vacuum hose routing schematic the 3.9L V6 engines

¥

6-16

Chapter 6 Emissions and engine control systems

aaer PURGE

ne

=

cou)

Bb oe

r---7,

bet ,Bs

BRAKE

ales

BOOSTER

TO SPEED

MANIFOLD SOURCE ©)

©

HEATED AIR TEMP. SENSOR

MAP SENSOR MA

s

—s

ich

Ea!

THROTTLE

VALVE

© HEATED

UPSTREAM

AIR DIAPH.

+H

OX)O)}

TO ATMOSPHERE a JO FUEL ne=

AIR

,

.

PRESSURE RELIEF! TANK

AIR PUMP

ROLLOVER VALVE

VAPORS ioica Data Cech. oe Gt CANISTER 1.6ao

AIR SWITCH

DOWNSTREAM

t

AIR

ame ea eae te OPTIONAL VACUUM OPERATED ACCESSORIES

1988 through 1991 vacuum hose routing for 5.2L V8 and 3.9L V6 engines

VAPOR CANISTER

~ ELECTRIC age

FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR

M = MANIFOLD VACUUM P =. PORTED VACUUM

j,

NS,

EGR VALVE

BREATHER CAP

PURGE SOLENOID

ORIFICE ' TO CLIMATE CONTROL, CRUISE CONTROL, 4x4 AXLE, (WHEN EQUIPPED)

THROTTLE BODY Ms

2 CLEANER

ites TO BRAKE

vi

BOOSTER

MAP

ORIFICE

SENSOR

CHECK VALVE

1.6ap 1992 vacuum hose routing for 3.9L V6 and 5.2L V8 engines

Chapter 6 Emissions and engine control systems

TO VENT

ome

NIFOLD MA SOURCE

A| \ AIR SWITCH/RELIEF VALVE SOLENOID

6-17

= THROTTLE

MAP

|

BODY

SENSOR

POWER BRAKE

eT oir]

et vacuum RESERVOIR \ BOOSTER

TO CRUISE ee CONTROL

TRANSDUCER

HEATED AIR

TEMP SENSOR

>

C-

|

EGR

a)

VALVE! PCV VALVE

mixed HEATED AIR DIAPH

vatve cover ORIFICE ——

TO ATMOSPHERE

\ =F

PRESSURE RELIEF/

E608

ROLLOVER VALVE

VALVE COVER SECIS DIVERTER VALVE

AIR PUMP Ha

——

TO FUEL TANK

AIR SWITCH/

RELIEF VALVE

1.6aq

at julie toca

|

DOWNSTREAM AIR

*WHEN EQUIPPED OPTIONAL VACUUM ~ 7" OPERATED ACCESSORIES

5 VAPOR CANISTER

1992 vacuum hose routing for 5.9L V8 engines

EVAP

M = MANIFOLD VACUUM

ROLLOVER VALVE

CANISTER

P = PORTED VACUUM

oe “oo

a,

IS

PCV VALVE

AIR

CRANKCASE BREATHER

® eS

EVAP PURGE

SOLENOID

TO CLIMATE CONTROL,

ima

FILTER

VEHICLE SPEED CONTROL, 4X4 AXLE

M

THROTTLE

eee

(WHEN EQUIPPED)

M

RELIEF VALVE

BODY

)( =

aN

\

,

TO

ME]

AIR CLEANER

M

a MAP

i

ae TO BRAKE BOOSTER

| \

WCORIFICE

FUEL TANK

ae DOWNSTREAM

vesikes IR

AIR PUMP

INTAKE MANIFOLD

ORIFICE

CHECK VALVE

W/ORIFICE

1.6ar 1993 through 1996 vacuum hose routing for 3.9L V6, 5.2L and 5.9L Light Duty Cycle engines (typical)

6-18

Chapter 6

Emissions and engine control systems |

TO ATMOSPHERE

M = MANIFOLD VACUUM

TRANSDUCER FUEL TANK PRESSURE RELIEF ROLLOVER VALVE W/ORIFICE

P = PORTED VACUUM

FUEL PRESSURE qt ___REGULATOR >. tal

PCV VALVE

Ga

EVAP CANISTER

.

CRANKCASE BREATHER

EGR VALVE

EVAP PURGE SOLENOID |

THROTTLE TO AIR CLEANER

TO CLIMATE CONTROL, CRUISE CONTROL, 4WD AXLE _ (WHEN EQUIPPED)

TO BRAKE BOOSTER

SENSOR ENGINE VALVE COVER INTAKE MANIFOLD ORIFICE 1.6as

ENGINE VALVE COVER

CHECK VALVE W/ORIFICE FRONT OF VEHICLE

1993 through 1996 vacuum hose routing for 5.9L Light Duty Cycle engines (typical)

VENT LINE

CARBURETOR FUEL BOWL VENT TUBE (BLACK)

= lz

AIR CLEANER |

= =|

PCV VALVE VENT TUBE (RED) | DISTRIBUTOR VACUUM TUBE — (WHITE) NOx SOLENOID VACUUM VALVE

CARBURETOR OVERFILL LIMITING VALVE (NOT REQUIRED ON ALL MODELS)

DISTRIBUTOR

ENGINE INTAKE MANIFOLD VENT TUBE (YELLOW)

LIQUID RETURN

LINE

CHARCOAL PRESSURE/VACUUM FILLER GAS !>

LIQUID/VAPOR SEPARATOR

(VAPOR)

f°,

fe eo

PURGE VALVE

%&-ss°o ee a

bs

CANISTER Foge © © ° of ‘

FUEL TANK VENT LINE

Fe KN

ACTIVATED CHARCOAL

poe

PURGE AIR

FUEL TANK

2.2 Schematic of a typical early-type EVAP system

.055 RESTRICTION

‘030 RESTRICTION FILTER

‘

Chapter 6

EGR SOLENOID

VACUUM SOURCE NIPPLE

6-19

Emissions and engine control systems

AIR SWITCHING SOLENOID

CANISTER PURGE SOLENOID

COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR

ELECTRICAL

\ CONNECTORS SS

2.6 The Coolant Vacuum Switch Cold Closed (CVSCC) valve allows vacuum to pass to the purge control solenoid at ' temperatures above 98-degrees F

2

2.10a With the ignition key on, check for voltage to the purge-control solenoid

2.10b Location of the canister purge solenoid on later TBI systems

Evaporative emissions control (EVAP) system

General description * Refer to illustrations 2.2, 2.6, 2.10a, 2.10b and 2.13

1. This system is designed to trap and storé fuel that evaporates from the fuel system that would normally enter the atmosphere in the form of hydrocarbon (HC) emissions. _ 2 _~ The system consists of a charcoal-filled vapor canister (see illustration), a purge control valve (early systems), a purge control solenoid (later systems), a rollover valve (later systems), overfill-limiting valve (early systems), pressure vacuum filler cap (on tank inlet) and connecting lines and hoses (see the VECI label attached to the inside of the . engine compartment). Note: Not all the models covered in this manual _ are equipped with the same components. Early systems are more simplified. Refer to the VECI label for the exact location and component breakdown for the particular model. Also refer to the vacuum diagrams in Section 1. Note that many early models are not equipped with a purge control valve or solenoid. ir 3 When the engine is off and pressure begins to build up in the fuel tank (caused by fuel expansion), the charcoal in the canister absorbs _ the fuel vapor. When the engine is started (cotd), the charcoal contin-

ues to absorb and store fuel vapor. As the engine warms up, the stored fuel vapors are routed to the intake manifold or air cleaner and combustion chambers where they are burned during normal vehicle operation. 4 ~ On early models the charcoal canister is purged using the purge control valve. When vacuum reaches a specified level, the control diaphragm opens and allows vapor to pass from the canister into the carburetor venturi where they are burned during the normal combus_ tion process. This is a mechanically operated system. 5 ‘On later models, the charcoal canister is purged using engine vacuum via the purge control solenoid which is controlled by the Spark

2.13 Check all the hoses on the charcoal canister for leaks, breaks or, misrouting - note that the right hose in this photo is disconnected

d) The engine speed must be above 800 to 1200 rpm. e) The engine vacuum must be below 30 inches. f) The carburetor switch must be open. 8 Some models are also equipped with an external bowl vent valve which is controlled by air pump operation. Some Canadian and Federal models are equipped with a thermal bowl vent valve (located in the bowl vent line to the canister) which is controlled by engine temperature to aid in cold starting. 9 All models are equipped with a relief valve, mounted in the fuel tank filler cap, which is calibrated to open the fuel tank when vacuum

or pressure reaches a certain level. This vents the fuel tank and relieves

extreme tank vacuum or pressure.

Check

- Control Computer (SCC). This type is an electrically operated system.

Purge control solenoid

6 The purge control valve or solenoid operates in conjunction with ' the Coolant Vacuum Switch: Cold Closed. (CVSCC) valve (see illustration). This valve is usually mounted in the thermostat housing. The CVSCC and the purge contro! valves remain shut at low engine temperatures. When the engine is operating at normal temperatures, the CVSGC valve opens, allowing vacuum to be applied to the purge con-

10 Check the power to the solenoid. With the ignition key on (engine not running), check for voltage at the electrical connector (see illustrations). There should be battery voltage (approximately 12 volts) present. If not, check the wiring harness (See Chapter 12). If the solenoid is suspect, use jumper wires and apply battery voltage to the solenoid and check for solenoid activation. 11 Also check for vacuum to the solenoid. With the engine running, install a vacuum gauge and check for a vacuum signal. If vacuum is not present, check all the lines for damage or improper vacuum hose rout-

trol valve so fuel vapors can be vented into the intake manifold.

j7 On all models equipped with Spark Control Computer or - Electronic Fuel Control system, before the SCC will energize the purge control solenoid for canister purging, the following conditions must be \ met: a ;a) The coolant temperature must be above 90-degrees F. __ b) The engine must have been running for approximately 1.5 minutes

-

ormore.

;

.

c) The vehicle speed must be above 5 to 15 mph.

ing.

Charcoal canister 12 Remove the filter at the bottom of the canister and inspect it for damage and saturation. If necessary, replace it with anew one. 13 Check all the hoses, valves and connectors for damage or cracked hoses (see illustration).

6-20

Chapter 6

Emissions and engine control systems

* EGR DELAY TIMER * EGR DELAY SOLENOID VACUUM

AMPLIFIER

a+

cee

\s

SIGNAL =.

TO ELECTRIC

CHOKE CONTROL BATTERY TERMINAL

TO CARBURETOR PORT VACUUM

—

TO VACUUM AMPLIFIER Ne

DARK BLUE

ee) Fg)

a

:

:

VACUUM.

ine

VACUUM

DARK BLUE WITH WHITE

Oe

EGR VALVE

EGR TIMER CONTROL

* EGR TIME DELAY ON SOME MODELS

3.1 A typical EGR system with Venturi Vacuum EGR System

14

Replace any component that is damaged.

Purge control valve 15 Disconnect the upper (smaller) vacuum hose from the purge control valve and attach a hand vacuum pump. 16 Disconnect the lower (larger) hose from the purge control valve and attach a short length of clean hose to the fitting on the valve. 17 Try to blow through the hose connected to the lower hose fitting; air should not pass through the valve. 18 Apply 15 inches of vacuum to the upper hose fitting with the vacuum pump, then try again to blow through the lower hose fitting; air should not pass through the valve. If the valve does not operate as specified, the valve is faulty and should be replaced.

3

Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system

General description Refer to illustrations 3.1 and 3.4 1 This system recirculates a portion of the exhaust gases into the intake manifold or carburetor in order to reduce the combustion temperatures and decrease the amount of nitrogen oxide (NOx) produced (see illustration). The main component in the system is the EGR valve. 2 Early models are equipped with either a Ported Vacuum Control

3.9 Apply vacuum to the EGR valve and put your finger on the underside of the valve, feeling for movement - the valve diaphragm should move up (small-block V8 engine shown)

BLACK

SOLENOID

:

GROUND

3.4 Schematic of the EGR time delay system

system or a Venturi Vacuum Control system. The Venturi Vacuum system utilizes a vacuum tap at the throat of the carburetor venturi to provide the control signal. This signal is a low amplitude signal that requires a vacuum amplifier to increase the level of vacuum needed to operate the EGR valve. The ported vacuum control system uses a slot in the carburetor body which is exposed to an increasing percentage of manifold vacuum as the throttle valve is opened up during acceleration. Ported systems do not require a vacuum amplifier. 3. The early models are also equipped with a Coolant Control Exhaust Gas Recirculation (CCEGR) valve mounted on the radiator. | When the coolant temperature in the top radiator tank reaches 65degrees F, the valve opens so that vacuum is applied to the EGR valve controlling exhaust gas recirculation. 4 Some models are equipped with an EGR delay system that uses an electrical timer mounted on the firewall in the engine compartment which controls an engine-mounted solenoid (see illustration). The timer prevents any exhaust gas recirculation for at least 35 seconds after the engine has started. 5 Engines equipped with SCC (see Chapter 5) and/or EFC (see Chapter 4A) systems are equipped with a charge temperature switch that is activated above 60-degrees F, thus allowing EGR timer to control exhaust gas recirculation. The CTS is located in the number 6 intake manifold runner on six-cylinder engines or the number 8 intake

manifold runner on eight cylinder engines. Refer to Section 14 for the charge temperature switch diagnostic procedures.

3.15 Remove the rubber junction block along with the vacuum hoses from the vacuum amplifier

3.16 Check to make sure engine vacuum

|

is reaching the vacuum amplifier by using a vacuum gauge to check for vacuum on the corresponding line °

ae

ASSEMBLY GEAR SHIFT CONTROL MECHANISM THIRD AND

OVERDRIVE ROD

oS)

Caer bee

NY,

‘

Te

Ory

Ye SWIVEL

eas

TRANSMISSION EXTENSION

SWIVEL (2) WASHER (2)

CLIP (3) LOCK WASHER (2)

(RUBBER ISOLATED SHIFTER WITH HANDLE RETAINED BY SPRING CLIP)

REVERSE ROD

2.17 An exploded view of a typical Overdrive-4 shift linkage assembly 5 Set the 1st/Reverse lever on the transmission to the Reverse position. Adjust the 1st/Reverse rod swivel by loosening the clamp bolt and sliding the swivel along so it will enter the 1st/Reverse lever at the transmission. Install the washers and clip and tighten the swivel bolt to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 6 Remove the gearshift housing locating tool and shift into the Neutral position. 7 OnA-250 and A-230 units, adjust the 2nd/Srd swivel rod by loosening the clamp bolt and sliding the swivel along the rod so that it will enter the 2nd/8rd lever at the transmission. Install the washers and clip and tighten the swivel bolt to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

; 8 | Remove the tool from the crossover blade at the steering column and shift it through all gears to check the adjustment and the smooth- i ness of the crossover during operation. Ee 9 Check for proper operation of the steering column lock in Reverse. If the linkage adjustment is correct, the ignition should lock in . the Reverse position. i 10 Remove the jackstands and lower the vehicle. Test drive the vehicle to make sure that the adjustment is correct.

.

:

A250 gearshift interlock

13

FLOOR SHIFT ASSEMBLY O)

~

0:70)

gg

Loosen the swivel clamp bolt and slide the swivel on the rod to ©

enter the pawl. Install the washers and the clip. | 14 While holding the interlock pawl forward, tighten the swivel clamp — bolt but make sure the clutch pedal is returned completely during this adjustment. Don’t pull the clutch rod to the rear to engage the swivel — pawl during these steps.

b\

W \ \ OAC x

HAND

LEVER

010” FEELER GAUGE

DRIVER'S SIDE

15

Shift from Neutral to 1st, then from Neutral to Reverse, using the

OH ©

2.18 On floor shift models, insert a feeler gauge into the drivers side of the shift lever base and pull up to detach the lever

~

clutch in the normal manner. The clutch action should be normal. : 16 Disengage the clutch, and shift halfway to 1st or Reverse. The 4 clutch should now be held down by the interlock to prevent clutch q

engagement.

Q ——— ——

.

11 Disconnect the clutch rod swivel from the interlock pawl (see ~ illustration 2.1a), then adjust the clutch pedal freeplay (see Chapter 1). 12 With the 1st/reverse lever in Neutral (middle detent), the interlock ~ pawl will enter the slot in the 1st/reverse lever.

vet

a

4

Floor-shift models (Overdrive-4) Removal and installation

4 ;

Refer to illustrations 2.17 and 2.18

‘17. Remove the retaining screws from the floor pan boot (see illustration) and remove the boot. ‘ 18 Insert a 0.10-inch feeler gauge into the shift lever base (see illus-— tration), then pull up on the lever to detach it. ;

19

Remove the retaining clips, washers and shift rods from the shift — \

Chapter 7 Part A Manual transmission KNOB

CROSSOVER ALIGNMENT TOOL, MAKE FROM Y%" DIA. ROD 2%" LONG

7TA-5

BOOT

ts

3RD-O/D / ROD pee ye ROD” ‘ADJUSTABLE SWIVELS ADJUSTABLE SWIVEL

BEZEL

GEARSHIFT LEVER

SCREW (6)

2.20 Make your own alignment tool for the Overdrive-4 out of a piece of 2-1/4 inch long 1/4-inch diameter rod

BEZEL SUPPORT

\mechanism levers under the floor pan. Remove the bolts and washers

LOWER BOOT

which secure the shift lever assembly to the transmission extension housing mounting plate and remove the shift lever unit.

Adjustment Refer to illustration 2.20

- 20 Fabricate a lever alignment tool out of 1/4-inch diameter rod (see - illustration). 21 Insert the lever alignment tool into the holes in the levers and the mechanism frame to hold the levers in the Neutral crossover position. 22 With all rods removed from the transmission shift levers, place the levers in the Neutral detent position. 23 Rotate the threaded shift rods until their length is correct for entering the transmission levers. Start with the 1-2 shift rod (you may _ have to pull the clip at the shifter end to rotate this rod). 24 Replace the washers and the clips.

25 26 27

Remove the aligning tool and test the shifting action. Attach the shift lever to the mechanism.

rather than to replace the lever itself, it isn’t necessary to remove the ‘shift lever from the boot. Simply leave the lever in place for later reassembly. 6 To install the shift lever, reach up and around the transmission and insert the lever into the shift tower. Press the lever retainer down

and turn it clockwise to lock it into place. Install the shift lever dust boot on the shift tower. Raise the transmission back into place. Install the rear crossmember,

remove the jackstands and lower the vehicle.

Slide the boot and retainer over the shift lever and fasten it to the |

floor with the screws. _ 28 Connect the negative battery cable.

_ 29

TRANSMISSION 3.1 The shift lever on the NP 2500 transmission simply unscrews

4

Transmission - removal and installation

Check the shifting action for smoothness.

Removal 3

Shift lever (NP2500 and AX-15) - removal and installation

Refer to illustration 4.13 1 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, 2 Raise the front end of the vehicle on a jack. Raise the vehicle

7A

_ NP2500 Refer to illustration 3.1 1 Remove the bezel screws and pull off the bezel and shifter boot, _then unscrew the gearshift lever (see illustration). 2 Installation is the reverse of removal.

AX-15 Refer to illustration 3.5 3 Shift the transmission into Neutral. Raise the front of the vehicle _and place it securely on jackstands. °

4 Support the transmission with a floor jack and remove the rear _ crossmember. ‘5 _ Lower the transmission about three inches, reach up on top of the | , transmission, unseat the shift lever dust boot from the transmission

shift tower (see illustration), move the boot up on the lever for better access to the lever retainer and disengage the shift lever from the

transmission as follows: _ a) Reach up and around the transmission case and press the shift lever retainer down with your fingers. _b) Turn the retainer counterclockwise to release it.

» ¢) Lift the lever and retainer out of the shift tower. _ Note: /f you’re detaching the shift lever to remove the transmission

3.5 To remove the shift lever from an AX-15 transmission, lower the transmission about three inches, reach up and press the shift lever retainer down, turn the retainer counterclockwise, and lift the lever and retainer out of the tower

7A-6

Chapter 7 Part

A Manual transmission ENGINE

Es Ca) Ses

ENGINE CLUTCH HOUSING CLUTCH HOUSING BOLTS

4.13

Fastener.torque guide for the AX-15 transmission

sufficiently to provide clearance to easily remove the transmission. Support the vehicle securely on jackstands. 3 Disconnect the external shift levers or rods from the transmission levers (See Section 2) or remove the shift lever (see Section 3). 4» Disconnect the clutch linkage (1971 through 1987 models) or the hydraulic release cylinder (1988 through 1993 models) (see Chapter 8). 5 Disconnect the speedometer cable (see Chapter 7B), then unplug the back-up light switch connector.

6 Drain the lubricant from the transmission (see Chapter 1). 7 Remove the driveshaft (see Chapter 8). Use a plastic bag to cover the end of the transmission to prevent fluid loss and contamination. 8 Remove the exhaust system components as necessary for clearance (see Chapter 4). 9 Support the engine. This can be done from above with an engine hoist, or by placing a jack (with a block of wood as an insulator) under the engine oil pan. The engine should remain supported at all times while the transmission is out of the vehicle. 10 Support the transmission with a jack - preferably a special jack made for this purpose. Safety chains will help steady the transmission on the jack. 11. Raise the engine slightly and disconnect the extension housing from the center crossmember.

12 Raise the transmission slightly and remove the center crossmember. 13 On all transmissions except AX-15 units, remove the bolts securing the transmission to the clutch housing. On AX-15s, remove the

clutch housing-to-engine bolts (see illustration). (The bolts securing the transmission to the bellhousing on AX-15s are inside the bellhousing.) 14 Make a final check that all wires and hoses have been disconnected from the transmission, then move the transmission and jack toward the rear of the vehicle until the transmission drive pinion shaft (input shaft) clears the splined hub in the clutch disc. Keep the transmission level as this is done. 15

Once the input shaft is clear, lower the transmission and remove it

from under the vehicle.

16

The clutch components can be inspected by removing the clutch

housing from the engine (see Chapter 8). In most cases, new clutch — components should be routinely installed if the transmission is | removed.

Installation 17 Insert a small amount of multi-purpose grease into the pilot bushing in the crankshaft and lubricate the inner surface of the bushing. Make sure no grease gets on the input shaft, clutch disc splines or the release lever. 18 If removed, install the clutch components (see Chapter 8). 19 If removed, attach the clutch housing to the engine and tighten

the bolts to the torque listed in the Chapter 8 Specifications. . 20. With the transmission secured to the jack as on removal, raise the transmission into position behind the clutch housing and then carefully slide it forward, engaging the input shaft with the clutch plate hub. Do — not use excessive force to install the transmission - if the input shaft © does not slide into place, readjust the angle of the transmission so it is — level and/or turn the input shaft so the splines engage properly with the © clutch. : 21 Install the transmission-to-clutch housing bolts. Tighten the bolts — to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. | 22 Install the crossmember and attach it to the transmission housing. Tighten all nuts and bolts securely. 23 Remove the jacks supporting the transmission and the engine. 24 Install the various items removed ‘previously, referring to Chapter 8 for the installation of the driveshaft and Chapter 4 for information regarding the exhaust system components. 25

Make a final check that all wires, hoses and the speedometer -

cable have been connected and that the transmission has with lubricant to the proper level (see Chapter 1). Lower the 26 Connect the shift levers or rods to the transmission Section 2) or install the shift lever (see Section 3). 27 Connect the negative battery cable. Road test the proper operation and check for leakage.

been filled — vehicle. levers (see j 4 vehicle for — ;

M

;

Chapter 7 Part

A Manual transmission

5.4a An exploded view of the A-230 three-speed transmission

1 =. 2 e3. 4 _ §

First gear Ring Spring Sleeve Struts (3)

22 23 24 25 26

Sleeve Struts (3) Spring Ring Second gear

6 _ 7

Spring Snap-ring

27 28

Output shaft Washer

Bushing Reverse gear Bearing Snap-ring Snap-ring Retainer Gasket Extension housing

29 Roller 30 | Washer 31 Roller 32 Washer 33 Countershaft 384 Washer 35 Roller 36 Washer

Bushing Seal

37 38

Roller. Washer

Yoke Snap-ring Ring

39 40 41

Retainer Gasket Seal

8 9

42 ._ Snap-ring 43 Snap-ring — 44 Bearing 45 Drive pinion 46 Roller 47 Snap-ring 48 Case 49 Drain plug 50 Fork 51 ~=~Lever 52 Housing 53. Lever 54 Locking nut 55 Switch 56 Lever o7 \ Bolt 58 Gasket 59 Interlock lever 60 Lever 61 ~~ ~-Fork

62 Spring 63 Snap-ring 64 Washer 65 Countershaft gear 66 Washer 67 Roller 68 Idler gear 69 Washer 70 ~~ ~Shatft 71 Key 72 Washer 73 ‘Filler plug 74 Clutch gear 75 Clutch gear 76 Key 77 Exhaust emission switch gasket 78 O-rings (2) 79 Exhaust emission switch 80 O-ring retainers (2)

Spring

5

Transmission overhaul - general information

cost of a rebuilt unit. Nevertheless,

_ Refer to illustrations 5.4a, 5.4b, 5.4c and 5.4d

4 _ Overhauling a manual transmission is a difficult job for the do-it_ yourselfer. It involves the disassembly and reassembly of many small _ parts. Numerous clearances must be precisely measured and, if nec_ essary, changed with select fit spacers and snap-rings. As a result, if

|transmission problems arise, it can be removed and installed by a competent do-it-yourselfer, but overhaul should be left to a transmission repair shop. Rebuilt transmissions may be available - check with your dealer parts department and auto parts stores. At any rate, the ime and money involved in an overhaul is almost sure to exceed the

it’s not impossible for an inexperienced

mechanic

to rebuild a transmission if the special tools are available and the job is done in a deliberate step-by-step manner so nothing is overlooked. The tools necessary for an overhaul include internal and external snap-ring pliers, a bearing puller, a slide hammer, a set of pin punches, a dial indicator and possibly a hydraulic press. In addition, a large, sturdy workbench and a vise or transmission stand will be required. During disassembly of the transmission, make careful notes of how each piece comes off, where it fits in relation to other pieces and what holds it in place. Exploded views are included (see illustrations) to show where the parts go - but actually noting how they are installed

7A

TA-8

Chapter 7 Part A Manual transmission COVER GEAR

SPRING

ROLLERS Tees

SLEEVE

EXTENSION BEARING oe

RING

SHAFT

FORK

gh

Be

TRUCK

| =

‘

ji\

YOKe/

NUT

WASHER

WASHER ROLLERS

WASHER

SEAL

:

i

ROLLERS

BUSHING

EXTENSION

GEAR

RETAINER 9

as

ROLLERS

WASHER BEARING

OIL SLINGER

SCREW ‘

LEVER

BALL

SPACER

ey =>

FORK LEVER SPRING

VY

CASKET :

GASKET

i}

Perene

\

RING

PLUG

BEARING

SF

' oe at

SHAFT Y

PINION

SEAL

PIN

SLEEVE

RING

SNAP RING

WASHER

ian ma

a

NUT

ee pea

SEAL

CASE

:

TEVER

GASKET

CLAMP

WASHER

RETAINER

10"

LEVER

PAWL

ras

BOLT AND WASHER

5.4b An exploded view of the A-250 three-speed transmission

when remove the parts will make it much easier to get the transmission back together. Before taking the transmission apart for repair, it will help if you have some idea what area of the transmission is malfunctioning.

Certain problems can be closely tied to specific areas in the transmission, which can make component examination and replacement easier. Refer to the Troubleshooting Section at the front of this manual for information regarding possible sources of trouble.

5.4c An exploded view of the A-390 three-speed transmission

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Case cover Case cover screw Case cover gasket Countershaft bearing roller Countershaft bearing washer Countershaft thrust washer Reverse idler thrust washer Reverse idler bushing Countershaft

21 ~~ Extension housing screw and lockwasher 22 Output shaft bearing retainer 23 Extension gasket 24 ~ Gearshift 1st and Reverse rail 25 Fork set screw 26 Gearshift 1st and Reverse fork 27 Gearshift lever shaft oil seal 28 Gearshift lever

10

Countershaft roll pin

29

11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

‘Reverse idler gear Output shaft bearing Reverse idler shaft Reverse idler stop pin Output shaft bearing outer snap-ring Output shaft bearing inner snap-ring Extension housing Extension housing seal Back-up light switch Back-up light switch gasket

30 =6Plug 31 Gearshift 2nd and 3rd rail 32 Gearshift detent-pin spring 33 Gearshift 2nd and 3rd fork 34 Gearshift detent pin 85 Gearshift detent-pin spring 36 Plug 37 = Case filler plug 38 Countershaft gear 89 2nd and 3rd synchronizer ring 40 Synchronizer 2nd and 3rd stop ring

‘

41 42 43 44 45 46 47

‘Transmission case

2nd-speed gear Low-speed gear thrust washer snap-ring Low-speed gear thrust washer. Low-speed gear Synchronizer low stop ring Synchronizer low and Reverse clutchgear snap-ring Lowand Reverse synchronizer

assembly 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57

:

Output shaft : Output shaft pilot roller ‘Input shaft ‘Input shaft bearing Bearing outer snap-ring Bearing inner snap-ring Bearing retainer oil seal Bearing retainer gasket Bearing retainer Bearing retainer screw

ee E eee ae

Chapter 7 Part A

Manual transmission

A-390 three-speed transmission

7TA-9

“—~

7A-10

Chapter 7 Part A

Manual transmission

5.4d An exploded view of the Overdrive-4 transmission

Bearing retainer Bearing retainer gasket Bearing retainer oil seal Bearing inner snap-ring Bearing outer snap-ring Pinion bearing Transmission case Filler plug 2nd-speed gear OANDAAARWDANM= Snap-ring Shift strut springs Clutch gear Shift struts (3) Shift strut spring Snap-ring 1st and 2nd clutch sleeve gear Synchronizer ring 1st-speed gear Bearing retainer ring Rear bearing Snap-ring Baffle Case-to-extension housing gasket Lock-washer Bolt Extension housing Mainshaft yoke bushing Oil seal Main drive pinion Needle bearing rollers Snap-ring Synchronizer ring Snap-ring Shift-strut spring Clutch gear Shift-strut spring Clutch sleeve Synchronizer ring 3rd speed gear (A-833), Overdrive gear (Overdrive-4) Mainshaft (output shaft) Shift struts (3) Woodruff key Countershaft Gear thrust washer Needle roller bearing spacer rings Needle roller bearing Bearing spacer Countershaft gear cluster Needle bearing rollers Needle roller bearing spacer rings Gear thrust washer Back-up light switch Back-up light switch gasket Plug Reverse detent ball spring retainer Gasket Reverse detent ball spring Reverse detent ball Woodruff key Reverse idler gear shaft Reverse idler gear bushing

Reverse idler gear

Lock-washer lever

Reverse shifter fork Reverse lever

Flat-washer lever 3rd and Overdrive operating lever Interlock lever (2) E-ring Spring Oil seal (2) 3rd and Overdrive lever 1st and 2nd lever

}

3rd and Overdrive-speed fork —

q

1st and 2nd-speed fork Drain plug

|

Reverse lever shaft oil seal Reverse operating lever — Flat washer Lock-washer Nut

Gearshift control housing 1st and 2nd operating lever Flat washer Lock-washer lever Lever nut

Shift control housing gasket

5

|

7B-1

'

’

‘

Automatic transmission Contents Section Automatic transmission fluid and filter change .............-. See Chapter 1 Automatic transmission fluid level Check .........:::cccccceeee See Chapter 1 Automatic transmission - removal and installation ...........csee 8 _ Band adjustment.......... Wee eres ae eee ee) ey See Chapter 1 POAC OSI seat MMENGl Oeecte tanae cc nekcsceanstssvednsenssesvaseoasssancdatsidapecdssenstnvaws 2 es eA enact cc rhc cnr an een nae anareueneeneayecnascctnsneancnetntnes 1

Section Oilsealireplacennemtac ss -ariscc seeks wwesseeces oleae xaeeneneesens ares seatecaesuceeguas 3 Neutral start/backup light switch - check and replacement.......... 6 Shift linkage/cable - check and adjustment...........:::ecceeseereeneereeee 4 Throttle rod and cable adjuStMent............::ccccceeescceeeeeeeeeeetteeseeeeeeees 5) Transmission mount - check and replaceMent...........:::cceeeeeeeeeeees 7

7B

Specifications

- Torque specifications

Ft-Ibs (unless otherwise indicated)

Nettralistant/backup light SWItCHY......::1.-...ccqcasdecccsececssaccersccsenpengensdecerennas aS IA SSIOM BTUNCANNY OMS (a2 cccsccetescsiceseostevgecrveesensonsssustyconevesenceadeetaasners

24 See Chapter 1

Transmission-to-engine bolts MAME ETOAC MM OC regeSe kee cerca sasel vy etacévsaveuirededeasnitpaneds sedasereavaesunenie 1995 on (see illustration 8.26) UNM eres ree Nee fetes ve deneinsvoasssnnessndunctsevevesesvansvevies sietoeanuecaesth

*30 20 80 30 35

to to to to

Torque converter-to-driveplate bolts Jee MENTEST rsa)ICIS ONLSeemann tee 9.5- inch, 4-lug bolts .........

~ _ 10.0-inch, 4-Iug bolts ........

—~

10.75-inch, 4-lug bolts

ees

GscsavauacassatwestcascsusSecsucevsasaveseecvers

40 55 ° 55 22.5

40 120 in-lbs 50 in-lbs 65

-7B-2 1

Chapter 7 PartB

Automatic transmission

essary (see Section 5). Note: The throttle rod may function properly ; when the engine is shut off and cold, but it may malfunction once the — engine is hot. Check it cold and at normal engine operating tempera- —

General information

All vehicles covered in this manual come equipped with a three-, four- or five-speed manual transmission or an automatic transmission. All information on the automatic transmission is included in this Part of Chapter 7. Information on the manual transmission can be found in Part A of this Chapter. You'll also find certain procedures common to both automatic and manual transmissions - such as oil seal replacement - here in Part B. All automatic transmissions are three- or four-speed units based on the basic Torqueflite design. The A-727 is the most common of the three-speed types along with several variants; the A-904T, A-998, A999, 32RH and 36RH. Four-speed versions of this transmission also go by several names; the A-500, A-518, 42RH and 46RH. The four-speed transmissions are basically the three-speed unit with an overdrive unit attached to the rear. Many 1978 and later transmissions are equipped with a lock-up torque converter that engages in high gear. The lock-up torque converter provides a direct connection between the engine and the drive wheels for improved efficiency and economy. The lock-up converter consists of a solenoid-controlled clutch on the torque converter that engages to lock up the converter in high gear.

Due to the complexity of the automatic transmissions covered in this manual and the need for specialized equipment to perform most service operations, this Chapter contains only general diagnosis, routine maintenance, adjustment and removal and installation procedures.

If the transmission requires major repair work, it should be left toa dealer service department or an automotive or transmission repair shop. You can, however, remove and install the transmission yourself

and save the expense, even if the repair work is done by a transmission shop.

2

Diagnosis - general

Note: Automatic transmission malfunctions may be caused by five general conditions: poor engine performance, improper adjustments, hydraulic malfunctions, mechanical malfunctions or malfunctions in the

computer or its signal network (later models). Diagnosis of these problems should always begin with a check of the easily repaired items: fluid level and condition (see Chapter 1), shift linkage adjustment and throttle rod linkage adjustment. Next, perform a road test to determine if the problem has been corrected or if more diagnosis is necessary. If the problem persists after the preliminary tests and corrections are completed, additional diagnosis should be done by a dealer service department or transmission repair shop. Refer to the Troubleshooting

section at the front of this manual for information on symptoms of transmission problems.

Preliminary checks 1

Drive the vehicle to warm the transmission to normal operating

temperature.

2

Check the fluid level as described in Chapter 1:

a) If the fluid level is unusually low, add enough fluid to bring the level within the designated area of the dipstick, then check for

external leaks (see below). b) If the fluid level is abnormally high, drain off the excess, then check the drained fluid for contamination by coolant. The presence of engine coolant in the automatic transmission fluid indicates that a failure has occurred in the internal radiator walls that separate the coolant from the transmission fluid (see Chapter 3). c) If the fluid is foaming, drain it and refill the transmission,

then

check for coolant in the fluid or a high fluid level. 3 Check the engine idle speed. Note: /f the engine is malfunctioning, do not proceed with the preliminary checks until it has been repaired and runs normally. 4 Check the throttle rod for freedom of movement. Adjust it if nec-

ture.

q

5 Inspect the shift linkage (see Section 4). Make sure it’s properly adjusted and that the linkage operates smoothly.

:‘

i

Fluid leak diagnosis

|

6 Most fluid leaks are easy to locate visually. Repair usually consists of replacing a seal or gasket. If a leak is difficult to find, the Eso

’ :

ing procedure may help.

7 Identify the fluid. Make sure it’s transmission fluid and not engine oil or brake fluid (automatic transmission fluid is a deep red color). 8 Try to pinpoint the source of the leak. Drive the vehicle several miles, then park it over a large sheet of cardboard. After a minute or two, you should be able to locate the leak by agile the source of the fluid dripping onto the cardboard. 9 Make acareful visual inspection of the Suspontee component and the area immediately around it. Pay particular attention to gasket mating surfaces. A mirror is often helpful for finding leaks in areas that are hard to see. 10

| )

— —

~

If the leak still cannot be found, clean the suspected area thor-

oughly with a degreaser or solvent, then dry it. 11 Drive the vehicle for several miles at normal operating temperature and varying speeds. After driving the vehicle, visually inspect the suspected component again. 12 Once the leak has been located, the cause must be determined before it can be properly repaired. If a gasket is replaced but the sealing flange is bent, the new gasket will not stop the leak. The bent flange must be straightened. 13 Before attempting to repair a leak, check to make sure that the following conditions are corrected or they may cause another leak. Note: Some of the following conditions cannot be fixed without highly specialized tools and expertise. Such problems must be referred to a transmission repair shop or a dealer service department.

N

—

: © — — —

Gasket leaks

14 Check the pan periodically. Make sure the bolts are tight, no bolts are missing, the gasket is in good condition and the pan is flat (dents in the pan may indicate damage to the valve body inside). 15 If the pan gasket is leaking, the fluid level or the fluid pressure may be too high, the vent may be plugged, the pan bolts may be too tight, the pan sealing flange may be warped, the sealing surface of the transmission housing may be damaged, the gasket may be damaged or the transmission casting may be cracked) or porous. If sealant —

instead of gasket material has been used to form a seal between the — pan and the transmission housing, it may be the wrong type sealant.

Seal leaks

16 Ifa transmission seal is leaking, the fluid level or pressure may be — too high, the vent may be plugged, the seal bore may be damaged, the — seal itself may be damaged or improperly installed, the surface of the shaft protruding through the seal may be damaged or a loose bearing — may be causing excessive shaft movement. 17 Make sure the dipstick tube seal is in good condition and the tube ~

is properly seated. Periodically check the area around the speedometer gear or sensor for leakage. If transmission fluid is evident, check the O-ring for damage. ;

Case leaks

18 If the case itself appears to be leaking, the casting is Rerous and — will have to be repaired or replaced. 19 Make sure the oil cooler hose fittings are tight and in good ° condition.

Fluid comes out vent pipe or fill tube

ern

20 If this condition occurs, the transmission is overfilled, there is — coolant in the fluid, the case is porous, the dipstick is incorrect, the —

vent is plugged or the drain-back holes are plugged.

Chapter 7 PartB

7B-3

Automatic transmission

eae

3.4 Use a hammer and chisel to dislodge

the rear seal

3.6 A large socket can be used to drive the new seal evenly into the bore

3.8 The adapter (arrow), or driven gear housing, as it’s sometimes called, is located on the left side of the extension

housing, right in front of the crossmember; it can be hard to find if it’s coated with oiland dirt like this one

7 Lubricate the splines of the transmission output shaft and the outside of the driveshaft sleeve yoke with multi-purpose grease, then install the driveshaft. Be careful not to damage the lip of the new seal.

1

Oil leaks frequently occur due to wear of the extension housing oil seal, and/or the speedometer drive gear oil seal and O-ring. . Replacement of these seals is relatively easy, since the repairs can usu_ally be performed without removing the transmission from the vehicle.

Extension housing oil seal _ Refer to illustrations 3.4 and 3.6 2 The extension housing oil seal is located at the extreme rear of the transmission, where the driveshaft is attached. If leakage at the seal is suspected, raise the vehicle and support it securely on jack-

_Speedometer driven gear seals Refer to illustrations 3.8, 3.9, 3.10a, 3.10b, 3.11, 3.12, 3.13 and 3.15 Note: Any time the speedometer pinion adapter is removed, you MUST install a new O-ring. 8 The speedometer cable and driven gear housing (see illustration). is located on the left (driver’s) side of the extension housing. Look for transmission fluid around the.cable and housing to determine if the seal and O-ring are leaking.

stands. If the seal is leaking, transmission fluid will be built up on the

9 On 1977 and earlier models, disconnect the speedometer cable (see illustration).

front of the driveshaft and may be dripping from the rear of the transmission. 3 Refer to Chapter 8 and remove the driveshaft. 4 Using a chisel and hammer, carefully pry the oil seal out of the

10 Mark the relationship of the adapter to the transmission, then remove the bolt and retainer and pull out the adapter (see illustrations). Caution: Every combination of rear axle gear ratio and tire size requires a different pinion (driven gear), and each pinion is a different

rear of the transmission (see illustration). Be careful not to damage the splines on the transmission output shaft. 5

If the oil seal and bushing cannot be removed with a chisel, a spe-

cial oil seal removal tool (available at auto parts stores) will be required. 6 Using a large section of pipe or a very large deep socket as a drift, _ install the new oil seal (see illustration). Drive it into the bore squarely and make sure it’s completely seated.

3.9 Unscrew the speedometer

‘-

cable collar with a wrench

(1977 and earlier models)

3.10a

diameter, so the position of the (eccentric) adapter is critical. If you try to install the adapter in some position other than the one it was in before you removed it, the pinion will be stripped or will seize as soon as the vehicle is driven. That’s why it’s important to carefully mark the position of the adapter in relation to the transmission housing so that the adapter is installed in exactly the same orientation it was in prior to

disassembly.

To remove the driven gear housing, remove the retainer bolt. . .

3.10b

...and pry the housing out with a screwdriver

7B-4

Chapter 7 PartB

Automatic transmission ya RETAINER

ADAPTER

“OQ” RING ~

PINION

BOLT AND WASHER

OlL SEAL RETAINER RING

3.12 An exploded view of a typical speedometer pinion and adapter assembly (1977 and earlier models) 3.11

Use a hooked tool to remove the O-ring

SPEEDOMETER CABLE HOUSING

ADAPTER

OIL SEAL

11. Remove the old O-ring (see illustration) and install a new O-ring in the adapter.

“QO” RING

can’t find the mark, there should be a number molded into the end of

the plastic pinion gear. This number will fall into one of four ranges cast into the outside flange of the adapter. When reinstalling the adapter, rotate it until the correct range is in the six O’clock position (see illustration). For example, if the number on the end of the pinion gear is 28, position the 26-31 range down. 16 Reinstall the retainer and bolt, tightening the bolt securely.

: ;

BOLT _, ag?

AND WASHER

| * j

(

hi,

12 On 1977 and earlier models, remove the retainer ring with a small screwdriver, then, using a hook, remove the seal (see illustration).

13 On 1978 and later models, remove the adapter clip and pinion clip, then remove the pinion gear and speedometer cable from the adapter (see illustration). 14 Using a small socket as a drift, install the new seal. 15 Installation is the reverse of removal. Make SURE you align the marks you made so the adapter will be in the same position. If you

.

PINION] OIL SEAL pinio

ADAPTER

CLIP

|

CLIP

RETAINER

3.13 An exploded view of a typical speedometer pinion and adapter assembly (1978 and later models) swivel lockscrew (see illustrations) and make sure the adjustable swivel block is free to turn on the shift rod. If the swivel block binds at

4qf

all on the shift rod, clean off any corrosion, dirt or grease with solvent

Front seal 17 If you find transmission fluid leaking from the front of the transmission, coming out from around the torque converter cover, the transmission front seal is probably leaking. Remove the torque converter cover (see illustration 8.6) and check for transmission fluid in the cover area, which will normally confirm your diagnosis. However, oil leaking from the engine rear seal can also accumulate in the torque converter housing area and lead to confusion. Transmission fluid is a deep red color. 18 Replacing the front seal is a difficult job, since the transmission and torque converter must be removed first (see Section 8). Also, the torque converter bushing in the transmission front pump should be replaced at this time, since front seal leaks are frequently caused by a worn bushing which causes increased movement of the torque converter hub and subsequent seal failure. We recommend taking the removed transmission to an automotive transmission shop for replacement of the front seal and bushing - this way you’ll make sure the seal will not fail on you again soon.

4

\ s

6 O'CLOCK POSITION

\

3.15 If you forgot to mark the adapter, look at the number molded into the end of the pinion gear, then find the number range. it falls into on the adapter - position the correct range in the six O’clock position STEERING COLUMN

LEVER

Shift linkage/cable - check and adjustment

ae

Shift linkage Refer to illustrations 4.4a, 4.4b and 4.4c

Note: Should it be necessary to disassemble any linkage rods from levers which use plastic grommets as retainers, always replace the

grommets. 1. To check the shift linkage adjustment, verify that the engine starts only in the Park or Neutral position. If the engine won’t start at all, the Neutral start/backup light switch may be faulty. If it starts in any other gear, adjust the linkage as follows: 2 __ Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. In the passenger compartment, place the shift lever in Park. 4 Before proceeding with the adjustment, loosen the adjustment

TRANSMISSION CONTROL LEVER

UN e

e

4.4a Typical shift linkage assembly for column-shift . models (1978 and earlier models) 1 ad ee ;

ee a A

Chapter 7 PartB

Automatic transmission

4.4b Typical shift linkage

FRONT ROD

assembly for V8 engines (1979

ASSEMBLY

through 1994 models)

TORQUE

SHAFT

.

SHIFT ARM AND GROMMET

STEERING COLUMN

TORQUE SHAFT BRACKET

BRACKET

BUSHING

ASSEMBLY 4.4c Typical shift linkage

FRONT

assembly for V6 engines (1991 through 1994 models)

WASHER (2) BUSHING

LOCK SCREW ‘f{— BRACKET GEARSHIFT

oe

CONTROL LEVER

a and ‘5 tion 6

RETAINER

a wire brush before proceeding. Place the shift lever (the one inside the vehicle) in the Park posiand lock the steering column with the ignition key. With all linkage assembled and the adjustment swivel lockscrew

still loose, move the shift lever on the transmission all the way to its

rear detent (the Park position). 7 With the shift lever inside the vehicle and the shift lever on the - transmission in their Park positions, tighten the adjustment swivel lockscrew securely. 8 Lower the vehicle and check the shift linkage operation, again mak_ ing sure the engine starts only in Park or Neutral. The detent position for Neutral and Drive should be within the limits of the shift lever stops.

CABLE RETAINER TABS

SHIFT CABLE

TORQUE SHAFT EXTENSION BRACKET

SWIVEL LOCK SCREW

GROMMET

TRANSMISSION SHIFT LEVER

Shift cable Refer to illustrations 4.10a and 4.10b 9 To check the shift cable adjustment, verify that the engine starts only in the Park or Neutral position. If the engine won’t start at all, the Neutral start/backup light switch may be faulty. If it starts in any gear other than Park or Neutral, adjust the shift cable as follows:

Description 10 The upper end of the shift cable is attached to, and operated by, an arm on the steering column shaft (see illustration) and the lower end is attached to the transmission shift lever. Brackets support and anchor the cable at each end and clips are used to attach the cable to the floorpan (see illustration). The cable has a built-in adjuster device

GROMMET

yee

DASH PANEL

DASH PANEL

\ 4.10a Typical shift cable assembly connections at steering column and at transmission (1995 and later models)

STEERING COLUMN

STEERING

STEERING COLUMN .

eda Sheth BALL ARM STUD THROTTLE VALVE SPRING BRACKET

MOUNTING BOLT

RETURN SPRING LOW BEAM TERMINAL

fj BATTERY TERMINAL

16.9 Dimmer switch adjustment details - you can fabricate your own adjustment pin with a paper clip

12

Chapter 12

ete

Chassis electrical system

al 18DG H11C-18BK/ W

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B15-18 O/8K. B14-18BK

:

i

12-26

.

Chapter 12

(. |

Chassis electrical system

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,

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

HEATER BLOWER MOTOR

t G1-12WH DASH oe

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Wiring diagram - 1979 through 1984 models (3 of 6) Heater, wiper motor, bulkhead disconnect block

-

12-34

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

HEATER CONTROL LAMP

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x

Chapter 12

ee

12-35

STARTER AND IGNITION SWITCH

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Chassis electrical system

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Wiring diagram - 1985 through 1987 models (2 of 11) Charging system

12-38

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

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Wiring diagram - 1985 through 1987 models (3 of 11) Starting system

Chapter 12

12-39

Chassis electrical system

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Ignition system - 318 V8 —

12-40

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system |

(OIL PRESSURE SWITCH RIGHT SIDE OF ENGINE)

ELECTRIC CHOKE CONTROL

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Index 4 A

Booster battery (jump) starting, 0-17 Brakes, 9-1 through 9-28 anti-lock, general information, 9-27 cables, parking, replacement, 9-17

About this manual, 0-5 Accelerator cable, replacement

carbureted models, 4A-6

caliper, removal, overhaul and installation, 9-4

fuel-injected models, 4B-8 Air aspirator system, 6-25 Air cleaner housing, removal and installation

check, 1-18 disc brake pads, replacement, 9-2 disc, inspection, removal and installation, 9-5

general information, 9-2 hoses and lines, check and replacement, 9-22 hydraulic system control valve, check, resetting

carbureted models, 4A-5 fuel-injected models, 4B-8

| Air conditioning and heating system, check and maintenance, 3-12 Air conditioning

|

and replacement, 9-24

compressor, removal and installation, 3-14 condenser, removal and installation, 3-15 evaporator, removal and installation, 3-15 receiver/drier, removal and installation, 3-14 Air filter replacement, 1-25 Air gap, distributor, check and adjustment, 5-16

light switch, check, adjustment and replacement, 9-20 master cylinder, removal, overhaul and installation, 9-14

Air injection (AIR) system, 6-23 Air temperature sensor (MPFI systems only), 6-35

shoes, replacement, 9-6

parking, adjustment, 9-18 power booster, check, removal and installation, 9-23

Rear Wheel Anti-Lock (RWAL) brake system, general information, 9-25 system bleeding, 9-19 wheel cylinder, removal, overhaul and installation, 9-13

Airbag, general information, 12-23

Alignment, front end, general information, 10-17 Alternator components, check and replacement, 5-19 Alternator, removal and installation, 5-18

_ Antenna, removal and installation, 12-10

Brake and clutch fluid, level check, 1-8 Bulb replacement, 12-6 Bumpers, removal and installation, 11-9

Buying parts, 0-9

_ Antifreeze, general information, 3-2

Anti-lock Brake System (ABS), general information, 9-27 Automatic transmission, 7B-1 through 7B-14 band adjustment, 1-26 diagnosis, general, 7B-2 fluid and filter change, 1-25

fluid level check, 1-10 general information, 7B-2 mount, check and replacement, 7B-12 removal and installation, 7B-12 Automotive chemicals and lubricants, 0-18 Axle assembly, rear, removal and installation, 8-16

Axleshaft, removal and installation full-floating axles, 8-13 | semi-floating axle, 8-11 _ Axleshaft bearing (semi-floating axles), replacement, 8-13 Axleshaft oil seal, (semi-floating axles), replacement, 8-13

C Cable, replacement accelerator, 4A-6, 4B-8 parking brake, 9-17 speedometer, 12-20 Caliper, disc brake, removal, overhaul and installation, 9-4

Camshaft and lifters, removal, inspection and installation inline six-cylinder engine, 2A-10

V6 and V8 engines, 2B-15 Carburetor adjustments, 4A-13

choke check and shaft cleaning, 1-32 diagnosis and overhaul, 4A-6

electronic feedback system, general information, 4A-17 mounting bolt/nut torque check, 1-20 removal and installation, 4A-17 Catalytic converter, 6-37

_

Ballast resistor, check and replacement, 5-13 Balljoints, check and replacement, 10-5 - Battery (jump) starting, 0-17 cables, check and replacement, 5-3 check, maintenance and charging, 1-13 electrolyte, level check, 1-8

Charge temperature switch (sensor), carbureted models, 4A-20 Charging system check, 5-17

Chassis lubrication, 1-23

CHECK ENGINE light, 6-29

removal and installation, 5-2

Choke heater, electric, testing, 4A-13 Circuit breakers, general information, 12-3

and circuit, check, 3-8 removal and installation, 3-8 Body, 11-1 through 11-14 | Body repair : i major damage, 11-3

| _ minor damage, 11-2

hk:Body, maintenance, 11-1

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general information and precautions, 5-17 Chassis electrical system, 12-1 through 12-60

emergency jump starting, 5-3

_ Blower motor

3

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CAUTION, 0-5

Clutch components, removal, inspection and installation, 8-3 description and check, 8-2 fluid, level check, 1-8

hydraulic release system, removal and installation, 8-5 pedal freeplay check and adjustment (1987 and earlier models), 1-17 release bearing, removal, inspection and installation, 8-5

IND-2

Index general information, 8-6

Clutch and driveline, 8-1 through 8-16 Coil springs, removal and installation, 10-7

removal and installation, 8-7

Compression check, 2C-6 Compressor, air conditioning, removal and installation, 3-14 Condenser, air conditioning, removal and installation, 3-15 Control arms, removal and installation, 10-8 Conversion factors, 0-19 Coolant reservoir, removal and installation, 3-4 temperature sending unit, check and replacement, 3-7 temperature sensor, 6-33 fan and clutch, check, removal and installation, 3-3 Cooling system check, 1-14 general information, 3-2

servicing (draining, flushing and refilling), 1-29 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems, 3-1 through 3-16

universal joints, replacement, 8-7 Drum brake shoes, replacement, 9-6

E Electric assist choke system, 6-25 Electric choke heater, testing, 4A-13 Electrical troubleshooting, general information, 12-1 Electronic Feedback Carburetor (EFC) system, general information, 4A-17 Electronic ignition system module, check and replacement, 5-13 Emergency jump starting, 5-3 Emissions and engine control systems, 6-1 through 6-38 general information, 6-1

Cowl grille, removal and installation, 11-13 Crankcase inlet filter, cleaning, 1-31

3

Emissions Maintenance Reminder (EMR) light, 1-36 Engine

Crankshaft

block

front oil seal, replacement

cleaning, 2C-16 inspection, 2C-17

inline six-cylinder engine, 2A-7 V6 and V8 engines, 2B-12 inspection, 2C-19

installation and main bearing oil clearance check, 2C-22 removal, 2C-14 Crankshaft position sensor (MPFI systems only), 6-33 Cruise control system, description and check, 12-22 Cylinder head cleaning and inspection, 2C-11 disassembly, 2C-11

reassembly, 2C-13

camshaft and lifters, removal, inspection and installation inline six-cylinder engine, 2A-10 V6 and V8 engines, 2B-15 compression check, 2C-6 cooling fan and clutch, check, removal and installation, 3-3 crankshaft front oil seal, replacement

inline six-cylinder engine, 2A-7 V6 and V8 engines, 2B-12 inspection, 2C-19 installation and main bearing oil clearance check, 2C-22 removal, 2C-14

removal and installation inline six-cylinder engine, 2A-11 V6 and V8 engines, 2B-19

cylinder head reassembly, 2C-13 removal and installation inline six-cylinder engine, 2A-11 V6 and V8 engines, 2B-19

Cylinder honing, 2C-17

D Daytime Running Light Module (Canada only), general information and replacement, 12-8 Detonation sensor, carbureted models, 4A-21 Diagnosis, 0-20 Differential lubricant change, 1-27 lubricant level check, 1-17 Disc brake caliper, removal, overhaul and installation, 9-4 disc, inspection, removal and installation, 9-5 pads, replacement, 9-2 Distributor

cylinder honing, 2C-17 exhaust manifolds, removal and installation

inline six-cylinder engine, 2A-6 V6 and V8 engines, 2B-11

general engine overhaul procedures, 2C-1 through 2C-24 general information inline six-cylinder engine, 2A-2 V6 and V8 engines, 2B-3

initial start-up and break-in after overhaul, 2C-24 intake manifold, removal and installation

©

inline six-cylinder engine, 2A-6 V6 and V8 engines, 2B-8

air gap, check and adjustment, 5-16

main and connecting rod bearings, inspection and selection, 2C-20

removal and installation, 5-15

mounts, check and replacement, 2B-25 oil and filter change, 1-11 oil, level check, 1-7 oil pan, removal and installation

Door(s) handle, latch and linkage (rear), removal and installation, 11-10

latch, lock cylinder and handles (front), removal and installation, 11-7 lock system, description and check, 12-22 rear and side hinged, removal and installation, 11-11

removal, installation and adjustment (front), 11-10 11-13

removal and installation, 11-13

trim panel, removal and installation, 11-3 window glass, removal and installation, 11-6 Drivebelt check, adjustment and replacement, 1-20 Driveline inspection, 8-6 Driveplate, removal and installation, 2B-24 Driveshaft and universal joints

center bearing, check and replacement, 8-8

oil pump, removal and installation

inline six-cylinder engine, 2A-12 —

side, sliding

latch and linkage, removal and installation,

inline six-cylinder engine, 2A-12 V6 and V8 engines, 2B-20

V6 and V8 engines, 2B-21 overhaul disassembly sequence, 2C-10 general information, 2C-5 reassembly sequence, 2C-20

piston rings, installation, 2C-21

piston/connecting rod assembly, inspection, 2C-18

installation and rod bearing oil clearance check, 2C-23

‘

4

Index

IND-3

rear main oil seal, replacement inline six-cylinder engine, 2A-13

lines and fittings, repair and replacement, 4A-2, 4B-5 Multi Port Fuel Injection (MPFI), component check and replacement, 4B-13 pressure relief procedure, 4B-2

V6 and V8 engines, 2B-22

rebuilding alternatives, 2C-8 removal and installation, 2C-8

pump, removal and installation, 4A-4, 4B-6

removal, methods and precautions, 2C-4

pump/fuel pressure check

repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle

carbureted models, 4A-1 fuel-injected models, 4B-2

inline six-cylinder engine, 2A-2 V6 and V8 engines, 2B-3 rocker arms, shafts and pushrods, removal, inspection and

installation inline six-cylinder engine, 2A-4 V6 and V8 engines, 2B-5 timing cover, chain and sprockets, removal, inspection and

installation inline six-cylinder engine, 2A-8

_ system check, 1-20 tank cleaning and repair, general information, 4A-4

removal and installation, 4A-2 Throttle Body Injection (TBI), component check and replacement, 4B-11 Fuel and exhaust systems, carbureted engines, 4A-1 through 4A-22 Fuel and exhaust systems, fuel injected engines,

4B-1 through 4B-16

V6 and V8 engines, 2B-13

Top Dead Center (TDC) for number one piston, locating, 2C-6 inline six-cylinder engine, 2A-3

Fuses, general information, 12-2 Fusible links, general information, 12-3

V6 and V8 engines, 2B-4

vacuum gauge diagnostic checks;.2C-6 valve cover, removal and installation inline six-cylinder engine, 2A-3 V6 and V8 engines, 2B-4

valve springs, retainers and seals, replacement inline six-cylinder engine, 2A-5 V6 and V8 engines, 2B-7 valves, servicing, 2C-13 Engine coolant temperature sensor, carbureted models, 4A-19 _ Engine coolant, level check, 1-8 Engine electrical systems, 5-1 through 5-28 general information and precautions, 5-2 Evaporative emissions control (EVAP) system, 6-19 Evaporative emissions control system check, 1-30 Evaporator, air conditioning, removal and installation, 3-15 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system, 6-20. Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system check, 1-30 Exhaust manifold heat control valve, check and servicing, 1-32 Exhaust manifolds, removal and installation inline six-cylinder engine, 2A-6

V6 and V8 engines, 2B-11 Exhaust system check, 1-16 Exhaust system, servicing and general information, 4A-21

F Fault finding, 0-20

‘Filter replacement engine oil, 1-11

fuel, 1-32

_ Fluid level checks, 1-7

G General engine overhaul procedures, 2C-1 through 2C-24 Glove box, removal and installation, 11-14

Grille, cowl, removal and installation, 11-13

H Hazard flashers and turn signals, check and replacement, 12-4 Headlight Headlights adjustment, 12-4 dimmer switch, check and replacement, 12-12

removal and installation, 12-4

switch, replacement, 12-12 Heat control valve, check and servicing, 1-32 Heated inlet air (HIA) system, 6-22 Heater and air-conditioning control assembly, removal and installation, 3-11 Heater core, removal and installation, 3-9

Hinges and locks, maintenance, 11-3 Hood latch release cable, removal and installation, 11-9 removal, installation and adjustment, 11-8 Horn, check and replacement, 12-20 Hoses, check and replacement, underhood, 1-15

Hub/drum assembly and wheel bearings (full-floating axles), removal, installation and adjustment, 8-14 Hydraulic system control valve, brake, check, resetting and replacement, 9-24

_ Flywheel, removal and installation, 2B-24 _ Front end alignment, general information, 10-17 _ Front wheel bearing check, repack and adjustment, 1-28

Fuel _ Carburetor adjustments, 4A-13

diagnosis and overhaul, 4A-6 removal and installation, 4A-17~ choke heater, electric, testing, 4A-13

Electronic Feedback Carburetor (EFC) system, general information, 4A-17 filter replacement, 1-32 general information, 4A-1°

injection system, check, 4B-10

general information, 4B-9 ~ level sending unit, check and replacement, 4A-4, 4B-7

Idle enrichment system, 6-27 Idle speed check and adjustment, 1-35 Ignition ballast resistor, check and replacement, 5-13 coil, check and replacement, 5-10 ~— distributor air gap, check and adjustment, 5-16 distributor, removal and installation, 5-15 electronic ignition system module, check and replacement, 5-13 lock cylinder, removal and installation, 12-21

pick-up coil(s), check and replacement, 5-10 points, check and replacement, 1-23 Spark Control Computer (SCC) system, check and component replacement, 5-14

IND

IND-4

Index

7 so

switch, check and replacement, 12-18

Oil seal replacement

system, géneral information, 5-3, 5-4

crankshaft front

timing check and adjustment, 1-35

inline six-cylinder engine, 2A-7

Information sensors (1988 through 1993 models), check and replacement, 6-30 Information sensors and output actuators, check and replacement, carbureted models, 4A-19 Inline six-cylinder engine, 2A-1 through 2A-14 Instrument cluster bezel, removal and installation, 11-8 Instrument cluster, removal and installation, 12-20 Intake manifold, removal and installation inline six-cylinder engine, 2A-6 V6 and V8 engines, 2B-8 Introduction to routine maintenance, 1-6

Ie

5

pe

:

ts ‘y

eR

—

a

Raa

Nes

V6 and V8 engines, 2B-12 ~ rear main inline six-cylinder engine, 2A-13 = V6 and V8 engines, 2B-22 transmission, 7B-3 Orifice Spark Advance Control (OSAC), 6-27 Outside rear view mirror, removal and installation, 11-13 Oxygen sensor, 1-36, 4A-19, 6-30 ;

Introduction to the Dodge and Plymouth vans, 0-5

es Pads, disc brake, replacement, 9-2 Parking brake

J

adjustment, 9-18

cables, replacement, 9-17 Pick-up coil(s), check and replacement, 5-10 Pilot bushing, inspection and replacement, 8-5 Pinion oil seal, replacement, 8-15 Piston rings, installation, 2C-21 Piston/connecting rod

Jacking and towing, 0-16

L

inspection, 2C-18

Leaf springs and bushings (rear), removal and installation, 10-9

installation and rod bearing oil clearance check, 2C-23

Lock-up control solenoid, 6-36

removal, 2C-14 Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) replacement, 1-30 Power brake booster, check, removal Power door lock system, description Power steering fluid, level check, 1-10

M

Main and connecting rod bearings, inspection and selection, 2C-20 MAINT

REQD,

Emissions Maintenance Reminder light, 1-36

system, 6-21 valve check and and installation, 9-23 and check, 12-22

Maintenance schedule, 1-6

pump, removal and installation, 10-15

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities, 0-9

system, bleeding, 10-16

Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor, 6-32

Manual transmission, 7A-1 through 7A-10 General information, 7A-2 lubricant change, 1-27 lubricant level check, 1-17 overhaul, general information, 7A-7 removal and installation, 7A-5 Master cylinder, removal, overhaul and installation, 9-14

-

Power window system, description and check, 12-23

Powertrain Control Module (PCM) or Single Module Engine Controller (SMEC) - removal and installation, 6-29

R

Mirror, outside rear view, removal and installation, 11-13

Radiator and coolant reservoir, removal and installation, 3-e

Mixture control solenoid (carbureted models), 44-20 Multi Port Fuel Injection (MPFI), component check and

Radiator grille, removal and installation, 11-9 Radio, removal.and installation, 12-9

replacement, 4B-13

Rear axle

Multi-function switch (1991 and later models), check and replacement, 12-11

;

assembly, removal and installation, 8-16 description and check, 8-9 Rear main oil seal, replacement inline six-cylinder engine, 2A-13 V6 and V8 engines, 2B-22

N

Rear Wheel Anti-Lock (RWAL) brake system,

Neutral start switch, check, 1-22 Neutral start/backup light switch, check and replacement (automatic transmission), 7B-11 NOTE,.0-5

Receiver/drier, air conditioning, removal and installation, 3-14 Relays, general information, 12-4 Rocker arms shafts and pushrods, removal, inspection and installation inline six-cylinder engine, 2A-4

general information, 9-25

V6 and V8 engines, 2B-5 Rotor, brake, inspection, removal and installation, 9-5 Routine maintenance schedule, 1-6

O Oil pan, removal and installation inline six-cylinder engine, 2A-12

V6 and V8 engines, 2B-20 Oil pump, removal and installation

inline six-cylinder engine, 2A-12

V6 and V8 engines, 2B-21

,

S ‘

Safety first, 0-20

Scheduled maintenance, 1-6

;

i

} i

j

IND-5

Index Transmission, manual, 7A-1 through 7A-10

Seat belt check, 1-22

‘Seats, removal and installation, 11-14

general information, 7A-2

Self-diagnosis system, description and code access, 6-29 Shock absorber, removal and installation

lubricant change, 1-27 level check, 1-17 overhaul, general information, 7A-7

front, 10-5 rear, 10-9

Single Module Engine Controller (SMEC) or Powertrain Control Module (PCM) - removal and installation, 6-29 Spark Control Computer (SCC) system, check and component replacement, 5-14 Spark plug replacement, 1-33 ; Spark plug wires and distributor cap and rotor, check and replacement, 1-34 Speedometer cable, removal and installation, 12-20 Stabilizer bar and bushings, removal and installation, 10-4 Starter motor brushes, replacement, 5-26 removal and installation, 5-25 testing in vehicle, 5-25 Starter relay, check and replacement, 5-27

Starter solenoid (Nippondenso starters), removal and installation, 5-28 Starting system, general information and precautions, 5-24 Steering gear, removal and installation, 10-14 knuckle, removal and installation, 10-7 linkage, inspection, removal and installation, wheel, removal and installation, 10-10 Strut rod, removal and installation, 10-7

10-12 ;

Suspension and steering check, 1-16 Suspension and steering systems, 10-1 through 10-18

removal and installation, 7A-5

shift lever (NP2500 and AX-15),

removal and installation, 7A-5

shift linkage, removal, installation and adjustment, 7A-3 Trouble code accessing, 6-29 Troubleshooting, 0-20

Tune-up and routine maintenance, 1-1 through 1-36 Tune-up, general information, 1-7 Turn signal and hazard flashers, check and replacement, 12-4 Turn signal/hazard warning switch, check and replacement, 12-14

U Underhood hose check and replacement, 1-15

Universal joints, replacement, 8-7 Upholstery and carpets, maintenance, 11-2

V V6 and V8 engines, 2B-1 through 2B-26 Vacuum gauge diagnostic checks, 2C-6 Vacuum throttle positioner, 6-28 Valve clearance check and adjustment, 1-24 Valve cover, removal and installation

+ Thermostat, check and replacement, 3-2 Thermostatic air cleaner check, 1-31 Throttle Body Injection (TBI), component check and replacement, 4B-11 Throttle body temperature sensor (5.2L and 5.9L TBI systems

only), 6-36 Throttle linkage inspection, 1-20 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), 6-34 Throttle rod and cable adjustment (automatic transmission), 7B-7 Timing chain, cover and sprockets, removal, inspection and

installation

inline six-cylinder engine, 2A-3 V6 and V8 engines, 2B-4 Valve springs, retainers and seals, replacement inline six-cylinder engine, 2A-5 V6 and V8 engines, 2B-7 Valves, servicing, 2C-13 Vehicle identification numbers, 0-6

Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS), 6-36 Vinyl trim, maintenance, 11-2

Voltage regulator (external type), replacement, 5-18

W

inline six-cylinder engine, 2A-8 V6 and V8 engines, 2B-13 Timing, ignition, check and adjustment, 1-35

WARNING, 0-5

Tire and tire pressure checks, 1-9 Tire rotation, 1-18 Tires and wheels, general information, 10-16 Tools, 0-12

removal and installation, 3-6 Wheel

Top Dead center (TDC) for number one piston, locating inline six-cylinder engine, 2A-3

V6 and V8 engines, 2B-4 Towing the vehicle, 0-16 Transmission, automatic, 7B-1 through 7B-14 band adjustment, 1-26

diagnosis, general, 7B-2 fluid and filter change, 1-25 fluid level check, 1-10 general information, 7B-2 mount, check and replacement, 7B-12 neutral start/backup light switch, check and replacement, 7B-11

oil seal replacement, 7B-3 removal aid installation, 7B-12 : _ Shift linkage/cable, check and adjustment, 7B-4 throttle rod pre cable adjustment, 7B-7

Water pump check, 3-6

alignment, general information, 10-17

bearings (front) check, repack and adjustment, 1-28 bearings and hub/drum assembly (full-floating axles), removal, installation and adjustment, 8-14 cylinder, removal, overhaul and installation, 9-13 and tires, general information, 10-16.

2

Window glass, door, removal and installation, 11-6 regulator, removal and installation, 11-6

power system, description and check, 12-23 Windshield and fixed glass, replacement, 11-3 washer fluid, level check, 1-8 wiper

motor, check and replacement, 12-21 blade inspection and replacement, 1-16 /washer switch, replacement, 12-17

Wiring diagrams, general information, 12-24

—

IND

Haynes Automotive

Manuals

NOTE: New manuals are added to this list on a periodic basis. If you do not see a listing for your vehicle,” consult your local Haynes dealer for the latest product information. « 1227 2118 *601

Sentra - see NISSAN (982) Stanza - see NISSAN (981)

ACURA “1776 = Integra & Legend ‘86 thru '90

DODGE

AMC 694 934

Jeep CJ - see JEEP (412) Mid-size models, Concord, Hornet, Gremlin & Spirit '70 thru '83 (Renault) Alliance & Encore '83 thru '87

AUDI 615 428 1117

J 4000 all models '80 thru '87 5000 all models '77 thru’83 5000 all models '84 thru '88

AUSTIN Healey Sprite - see MG Midget (265)

BMW *2020

276 632 240 348

3/5 Series not including diesel or all-wheel drive models '82 thru '92 320i all 4 cyl models ‘75 thru '83

528i & 530i all models '75 thru '80 1500 thru 2002 except Turbo '59 thru 77 2500, 2800, 3.0 & Bavaria '69 thru '76

BUICK Century (FWD) - see GM (829) *1627

Buick, Oldsmobile & Pontiac Full-size (Front wheel drive) '85 thru ’95 Buick Electra, LeSabre and Park Avenue;

Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royale, Ninety Eight 1551

and Regency; Pontiac Bonneville Buick Oldsmobile & Pontiac Full-size (Rear wheel drive) Buick Estate ’70 thru ’90, Electra’70 thru ’84, LeSabre '70 thru '85, Limited '74 thru '79 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser '70 thru 90,

Delta 88 ’70 thru ’85,Ninety-eight '70 thru '84 Pontiac Bonneville '70 thru '81,

627

Catalina '70 thru ’81, Grandville ’70 thru ’75, Parisienne '83 thru '86 Mid-size Regal & Century '74 thru '87

Regal - see GENERAL MOTORS (1671) Skyhawk - see GENERAL MOTORS (766) Skylark '80 thru '85 - see GM (38020) Skylark '86 on - see GM (1420)

Somerset - see GENERAL MOTORS (1420)

CADILLAC *751

~=Astro & GMC Safari Mini-vans '85 thru '93 Camaro V8 all models '70 thru '81 Camaro all models '82 thru '92 Cavalier - see GENERAL MOTORS (766) Celebrity - see GENERAL MOTORS (829)

625

Chevelle, Malibu, El Camino '69 thru '87

449

Chevette. & Pontiac T1000 '76 thru '87 Citation - see GENERAL MOTORS (38020) Corsica/Beretta all models ’87 thru ’95 Corvette all V8 models '68 thru '82 Corvette all models '84 thru '91 Chevrolet Engine Overhaul Manual

“1628 274 1336 1762 704

319 626 241 *1642. 420 *1664

*831 “4727 *345

*2058 “1337

Biscayne, Bel Air & Wagons ’69 thru '90 Lumina - see GENERAL MOTORS (1671) Lumina APV - see GM (2035) Luv Pick-up all 2WD & 4WD '72 thru '82 Monte Carlo all models ’70 thru ’88 Nova all V8 models ’69 thru '79 Nova/Geo Prizm front wheel drive '85 thru '92 Pick-ups ’67 thru ’87 - Chevrolet & GMC, all V8 & in-line 6 cyl, 2WD & 4WD ’67 thru '87; Suburbans, Blazers & Jimmys '67 thru ’91 Pick-ups '88 thru ’95 - Chevrolet & GMC, all full-size models '88 thru '95; Blazer & Jimmy '92 thru ’94; Suburban ’92 thru '95; Tahoe & Yukon '95 S-10 & GMC S-15 Pick-ups '82 thru '93 Sprint & Geo Metro '85 thru '94 Vans - Chevrolet & GMC, V8 & in-line 6 cylinder models ’68 thru ’95

376

2098 *1726 "1779 *349

Full-size Front-Wheel Drive '88 thru '93 K-Cars - see DODGE Aries (723) Laser - see Chrysler & front-wheel Rear-wheel Rear-wheel

DODGE Daytona (1140) Plymouth Mid-size drive ’82 thru '93; Drive - see DODGE Drive (2098)

310 all models ’78 thru '82 510 & PL521 Pick-up '68 thru 73 510 all models ’78 thru 81 610 all models '72 thru’76 620 Series Pick-up all models '73 thru '79 720 Series Pick-up - see NISSAN (771) 810/Maxima all gas models, '77 thru ’84 Pulsar - see NISSAN (876)

all models '78 thru '87

,

Dakota Pick-ups all models '87 thru '93 Dart, Challenger/Plymouth Barracuda

& Valiant 6 cyl models '67 thru '76 Daytona & Chrysler Laser '84 thru '89 Omni & Plymouth Horizon '78 thru '90 Pick-ups all full-size models '74 thru '91 Ram 50/D50 Pick-ups & Raider and Plymouth Arrow Pick-ups '79 thru '93 Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler

rear wheel drive '71 thru '89

Shadow/Plymouth Sundance '87 thru '93 Spirit & Plymouth Acclaim '89 thru ’95

Vans - Dodge & Plymouth ‘71 thru '91 Talon - see Mitsubishi Eclipse (2097)

FIAT 094 © 124 Sport Coupe & Spider '68 thru '78 X1/9 all models '74 thru '80 273

FORD “1476 788 *880 268 2105 1763 789 *2046 *2021 560 334 754

Aerostar Mini-vans '86 thru '94 Bronco and Pick-ups '73 thru '79 4 Bronco and Pick-ups '80 thru '95 Courier Pick-up all models '72 thru '82 Crown Victoria & Mercury Grand Marquis ’88 thru '94 Ford Engine Overhaul Manual Escort/Mercury Lynx '81 thru '90 Escort/Mercury Tracer ’91 thru ’95 Explorer & Mazda Navajo '91 thru '95 Fairmont & Mercury Zephyr ‘78 thru '83 Fiesta all models '77 thru '80 Ford & Mercury Full-size, Ford LTD & Mercury Marquis ('75 thru '82); Ford Custom 500,Country Squire, Crown Victoria-& Mercury Colony Park ('75 thru ’87);

359 773

Ford LTD Crown Victoria & Mercury Gran Marquis ('83 thru '87) Granada & Mercury Monarch '75 thru '80 Ford & Mercury Mid-size,

Ford Thunderbird & Mercury Cougar ('75 thru ’82); Ford LTD & Mercury Marquis (’83 thru '86); Ford Torino,Gran Torino, Elite, Ranchero pick-up, LTD II, Mercury Montego, Comet, XR-7 & Lincoln Versailles (’75 thru '86) Mustang & Mercury Capri incl. Turbo Mustang, ’79 thru '93; Capri, ’79 thru '86 Mustang V8 all models ’64-1/2 thru ’73

Mustang Il 4 cyl, V6 & V8 ’74 thru '78 Pinto & Mercury Bobcat ’75 thru 80 Probe all models '89 thru '92 Ranger/Bronco Il gas models ’83 thru '93 Taurus & Mercury Sable '86 thru '94 Tempo & Mercury Topaz '84 thru ’94 Thunderbird/Mercury Cougar '83 thru '88 Thunderbird/Mercury Cougar '89 and '93

Vans all V8 Econoline models ’69 thru '91 Vans full size '92 thru '95

HYUNDAI *1552

*829 *1671 *766 38020

*2035

Buick Century, Chevrolet Celebrity, Olds Cutlass Ciera & Pontiac 6000 all models '82 thru '93 Buick Regal, Chevrolet Lumina, Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme & Pontiac Grand Prix front wheel drive ’88 thru '95 Buick Skyhawk, Cadillac Cimarron, Chevrolet Cavalier, Oldsmobile Firenza Pontiac J-2000 & Sunbird '82 thru '94 Buidk Skylar, Chevrolet Citation, Olds Omega, Pontiac Phoenix '80 thru '85 Buick Skylark & Somerset, Olds Achieva, Calais & Pontiac Grand Am ’85 thru '95 Chevrolet Lumina APV, Oldsmobile Silhouette & Pontiac Trans Sport '90 thru 94 General Motors Full-size Rear-wheel Drive - see BUICK (1551)

GEO

*1641

*242 “478 *1553

Cherokee, Comanche & Wagoneer Limited all models '84 thru '93 412 CJall models '49 thru '86 *50025 Grand Cherokee all models '93 thru ’95 *1777 +Wrangler all models '87 thru '94

LINCOLN 2117

351 Accord CVCC all models '76 thru ’83 1221 » Accord all models '84 thru '89 2067 Accord all models '90 thru '93 *42013 Accord all models '94 thru '95 160 Civic 1200 all models '73 thru '79 633 Civic 1300 & 1500 CVCC ’80 thru '83 297 Civic 1500 CVCC all models '75 thru ’79

PORSCHE *264

5 Le Car all models ’76 thru '83 Alliance & Encore - see AMC (934)

SAAB 247 *980

99 all models including Turbo ’69 thru '80 900 including Turbo ’79 thru '88

SATURN *2083

Saturn all models ’91 thru "94

SUBARU 237 *681

1100, 1300, 1400 & 1600 ’71 thru '79 1600 & 1800 2WD & 4WD’80 thru ’89

230, 250 & 280 6 cyl sohc '68 thru 72 280 123 Series gas models '77 thru ’81

698 697

350 & 450 all models '71 thru ’80 Diesel 123 Series '76 thru '85

1023

Celiea Supra all models '79 thru "92 Cotolta all models ’75 thru '79 Corolla rear wheel drive models ’80 thru '87

Corolla ftont wheel drive models '84 thru "92 Corolla Tercel all models ’80 thru '82

Corona all models '74 thru '82

Cressida all models '78 thru '82 Land Cruiser all models ’68 thru '82

MR2 all models'’85 thru’87

Pick-up all modal 6 thru '78.

Pick-up all mod igrethru "95 Previa all models '91 thru '93 Tercei all models '87 thru '94

See FORD Listing

MGB Roadster & GT Coupe '62 thru '80 MG Midget & Austin Healey Sprite Roadster ’58 thru '80

Camry all models '83 thru ’91 Camry all models ’92 thru ’95 Celica Rear Wheel Drive '71 thru '85 Celica Front Wheel Drive '86 thru 92

MERCURY

MG

Samurai/Sidekick/Geo Tracker ’86 thru 95

“1626

TOYOTA

190 Series 4-cyl gas models, '84 thru '88 *

346 983

111 265

: 4

RENAULT

MERCEDES-BENZ "1643

911 all Coupe & Targa models except Turbo & Carrera4 ’65 thru '89 914 all 4 cyl models '69 thru '76 924 all models incl. Turbo ’76 thru '82 944 all models incl. Turbo '83 thru '89

239 397 “1027

SUZUKI

648 626 (rear wheel drive) '79 thru ’82 “1082 626 & MX-6 (front wheel drive) ’83 thru '91 267 _8B Series Pick-ups '72 thru 93 370 GLC (rear wheel drive) '77 thru ’83 757 GLC (front wheel drive) '81 thru ’85 *2047 MPV all models '89 thru ’94 Navajo - see FORD Explorer (2021) 460 RX-7 all models '79 thru '85 “1419 RX-7 all models '86 thru '91

TRIUMPH 113 322

4

Spitfire all models '62 thru '81 TR7 all: models '75 thru '81

MITSUBISHI "1669

*2097 *2022

Beetle & Karmann Ghia ‘54 thru '79 Dasher all gasoline models '74 thru '81 Rabbit, Jetta, Scirocco, & Pick-up gas

Cordia, Tredia, Galant, Precis & Mirage ’83 thru '93 Eclipse, Eagle Talon & Plymouth Laser '90 thru '94 Pick-up & Montero '83 thru ’95

models ’74 thru 91 & Convertible '80 thru ’92

Rabbit, Jetta & Pick-up diesel models ’77 thru 84 Transporter 1600 all models '68 thru '79 Transporter 1700, 1800, 2000 '72 thru 79

NISSAN 1137 *1341 *771 876 *982 *981

300ZX all models incl. Turbo '84 thru '89 Maxima all models '85 thru '91 +~=Pick-ups/Pathfinder gas models '80 thru ’95 Pulsar all models '83 thru '86 Sentra all models '82 thru 94 Stanza all models '82 thru ’90

Type 3 1500 & 1600 ’63 thru '73 Vanagon air-cooled models '80 thru '83 120, 140 240 260

OLDSMOBILE Bravada - see CHEVROLET S-10 (831) *658

Calais - see GENERAL MOTORS (1420) Custom Cruiser - see BUICK (1551) Cutlass '74 thru '88

Cutlass Ciera - see GM (829) Cutlass Supreme - see GM (1671) Delta 88 - see BUICK Full-size RWD (1551)

Automotive Computer Codes Automotive Emissions Control Manual Fuel Injection Manual, 1978 thru 1985 Fuel Injection Manual, 1986 thru 1994 Holley Carburetor Manual

Delta 88 Royale - see BUICK (1551)

Rochester Carburetor Manual Weber/Zenith/Stromberg/SU Chevrolet Engine Overhaul Manual Chrysler Engine Overhaul Manual Ford Engine Overhaul Manual GM and Ford Diesel Engine Repair Small Engine Repair Manual

Firenza - see GENERAL MOTORS (766) Ninety-eight Regency - see BUICK

Full-size RWD (1551), FWD (1627)

Omega - see GENERAL MOTORS (38020) Silhouette - see GENERAL MOTORS (2035)

PEUGEOT

Ford Automatic Transmission Overhaul

504 all diesel models '74 thru ’83

GM Automatic Transmission Overhaul Automotive Body Repair & Painting Automotive Brake Manual Automotive Detaiing Manual Automotive Eelectrical Manual Automotive Heating & Air Conditioning Automotive Reference Manual &

PLYMOUTH Laser - see MITSUBISHI Eclipse (2097) Other PLYMOUTH titles, see DODGE

PONTIAC T1000 - see CHEVROLET Chevette (449) J-2000 - see GENERAL MOTORS (766) 6000 - see GM (829) Bonneville - see Buick Full-size Bonneville Brougham - see Buick (1551) Catalina - see Buick Full-size (1551) Fiero all models ’84 thru '88 Firebird V8 models except Turbo '70 thru ’81 Firebird all models '82 thru '92 Full-size Front Wheel Drive - see BUICK Oldsmobile, Pontiac Full-size FWD (1627)

Full-size Rear Wheel Drive - see BUICK Oldsmobile, Pontiac Full-size RWD (1551) Grand Am - see GM (1420) Grand Prix - see GM (1677) Grandville - see BUICK (1551) Parisienne - see BUICK (1551) Phoenix - see GM (38020)

* Listings shown with an asterisk (*) indicate model coverage as of this printing. These titles will be periodically updated to include later model years - consult your Haynes dealer for more information.

|

illustrated Dictionary

Automotive Tools Manual Used Car Buying Guide

Welding Manual

FWD (1627), RWD (1551) 1232 555 867

'61 thru '73 '74 '93 ’82

740 & 760 Series all models '82 thru'88

Full-size: FWD (1551), RWD (1627)

663

130 Series & 1800 Sports Series all models '66 thru Series all models '76 thru Series all models ’75 thru

TECHBOOK MANUALS

Delta 88 Brougham - see BUICK

GMC

(420, 831, 345, 1664)

Rear Wheel Drive all models '70 thru ’95

MAZDA

Tracker - see SUZUKI Samurai (1626)

HONDA

Sunbird - see GENERAL MOTORS (766) Trans Sport - see GM (2035)

141 XJ6 all 6 cyl models '68 thru '86 XJ12 & XJS all 12 cyl models ’72 thru '85

JEEP

Metro - see CHEVROLET Sprint (1727)

Vans & Pick-ups - see CHEVROLET

Trooper & Pick-up, all gasoline models Pick-up, '81 thru '93; Trooper, '84 thru ’91

JAGUAR

Prizm - see CHEVROLET Nova (1642) Storm all models '90 thru '93

Safari - see CHEVROLET ASTRO (1477)

Excel all models '86 thru '94

ISUZU

GENERAL MOTORS

*2039 200SX all.models '77 thru '79 200SX all models ’80 thru ’83 B- 210 all models '73 thru '78 210 all models '78 thru '82 240Z, 260Z & 280Z Coupe ’70 thru '78 280ZX Coupe & 2+2 79 thru '83

Aries & Plymouth Reliant '81 thru '89 Caravan & Plymouth Voyager Mini-Vans all models '84 thru ’95 Challenger/Plymouth Saporro '78 thru '83 Challenger ’67-’76 - see DODGE Dart (234) Colt all models '71 thru '77 Colt/Plymouth Champ (front wheel drive)

EAGLE

1420

300ZX - see NISSAN (1137) 679 123 430 372 277

*1140 *545 *912 *556

Chrysler Engine Overhaul Manual

DATSUN 402 647 228 525 206 563

236 610

“1668 234

Full-size Sedans Caprice, Impala,

CHRYSLER 2114

699

Cadillac Rear Wheel Drive all gasoline models '70 thru '93 Cimarron - see GENERAL MOTORS (766)

CHEVROLET “1477 554 866

400 & 600 - see CHRYSLER Mid-size (1337) *723 1231

Civic all models '84 thru '91 Civic & del Sol 92 thru '95 Prelude CVCC all models '79 thru '89

SPANISH MANUALS 98905 98915 99040

99041 99075 99125

-

Cédigos Automotrices de la Computadora Inyeccién de Combustible 1986 al 1994 Chevrolet & GMC Camionetas '67 al’87

Incluye Suburban, Blazer & Jimmy ’67 al ’91 » Chevrolet & GMC Camionetas 88 al’95 Incluye Suburban ’92 al '95, Blazer &

Jimmy ’92 al ’94, Tahoe y Yukon ’95

Ford Camionetas y Bronco ’80 al 94

Toyota Camionetas y 4-Runner '79 al ’95

Nearly 100 Haynes motorcycle manuals also available

Haynes North America, Inc., 861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, CA 91320 « (805) 498-6703 ay

; ‘

NORMAL Symptoms: Brown to grayish-tan color and slight electrode wear. Correct heat range for engine and operating conditions. Recommendation: When new spark plugs are installed, replace with plugs of the same heat range.

TOO HOT

'1N toms: Rounded electrodes small amount of deposits on ng end. Normal color. Causes starting in damp or cold sr and poor fuel economy. nmendation: Plugs have left in the engine too long. ve with new plugs of the heat range. Follow the recnded maintenance schedule.

PY

BON DEPOSITS

46-*|

oms: Dry sooty deposits nrenedte a rich mixture or weak ignition. Causes misfiring, hard starting

and hesitation. Recommendation: Make sure the plug has the correct heat range. Check for a clogged air filter or problem in the fuel system or engine management system. Also check for ignition system problems.

ASH DEPOSITS Symptoms; Light brown deposits encrusted on the side or center electrodes or both. Derived from oil and/or fuel additives. Excessive amounts may mask the spark, causing misfiring and hesitation during acceleration. Recommendation: \f excessive deposits accumulate over a short time or low mileage, install new valve guide seals to prevent seep-

age of oil into the combustion chambers. Also try changing gasoline brands.

OIL DEPOSITS Symptoms:

Oily coating caused

by poor oil control. Oil is leaking past worn valve guides or piston rings into the combustion chamber.

Causes hard starting, misfiring and hesitation. Recommendation: Correct the mechanical condition with necessary repairs and install new plugs.

GAP BRIDGING Symptoms: lodge

Combustion deposits

between

the

electrodes.

Heavy deposits accumulate and bridge the electrode gap. The plug ceases to fire, resulting in a dead cylinder.

icemmandatian:—

Locate

faulty plug and remove the deposits from between the electrodes.

Symptoms: Blistered, white insulator, eroded electrode and absence of deposits. Results in shortened plug life. Recommendation: Check for the correct plug heat range, overadvanced ignition timing, lean fuel mixture, intake manifold vacuum leaks, sticking valves and insufficient engine cooling.

PREIGNITION Symptoms: Melted electrodes. Insulators are white, but may be dirty due to misfiring or flying debris in the combustion chamber. Can lead to engine damage. Recommendation: Check for the correct plug heat range, overadvanced ignition timing, lean fuel mixture, insufficient engine cooling and lack of lubrication.

HIGH SPEED GLAZING Symptoms: Insulator has yellowish, glazed appearance. Indicates that combustion chamber temperatures have risen suddenly during hard acceleration. Normal deposits melt to form a conductive coating. Causes misfiring at high speeds. Recommendation: _|nstall new plugs. Consider using a colder plug if driving habits warrant.

DETONATION Symptoms: Insulators may be cracked or chipped. Improper gap setting techniques can also result in a fractured insulator tip. Can lead to piston damage. Recommendation: Make sure the fuel anti-knock values meet engine requirements. Use care when setting the gaps on new plugs. Avoid lugging the engine.

MECHANICAL DAMAGE Symptoms: May be caused by a foreign object in the combustion chamber or the piston striking an incorrect reach (too long) plug. Causes a dead cylinder and could result in piston damage. Recommendation: Repair the mechanical damage. Remove the foreign object from the engine and/or install the correct reach plug.

ML Tl

8 03975 5723

Haynes mechanic,

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Models covered by this manual: PNi ivi |bs-}74-m Dlolelel-m-laleM adhaanelelia mca iiiia) Six-cylinder inline, V6 and V8 engines - 1971 thru 1996

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