Haynes Chevrolet and Chevelle Owners Workshop Manual 085696350X, 9780856963506

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Chevrolet and Chevelle Owners Workshop Manual by J H Haynes Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers .

and Peter G Strasman Models covered:

Chevelle: Nomad, 300 Deluxe, Malibu, Malibu Classic, Concours Laguna, Laguna Type 53, Monte Carlo, Monte Carlo S, Classic Estate Chevrolet: Biscayne, Bel Air, Impala, Caprice, Caprice Classic 305, 307, 327, 350, 396, 400, 402, 427 and 454 cu in engine models, manual and automatic transmission IES

ISBN 0 85696 350 X ©

Haynes Publishing Group 1979

ABCDE FGHIJ

KLMNO PQRS

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission

in writing from the copyright holder.

Printed in England

HAYNES PUBLISHING GROUP SPARKFORD

YEOVIL

SOMERSET

distributed in the USA by

HAYNES PUBLICATIONS INC 861 LAWRENCE DRIVE NEWBURY PARK CALIFORNIA 91320 USA

ENGLAND

Acknowledgements Thanks are due to the Chevrolet Motor Division of the General Motors Corporation for their assistance with technical information and supply of certain illustrations. The Champion Sparking Plug Company supplied the illustrations showing the various spark plug conditions.The bodywork repair photographs used in the manual were provided by Lloyds Industries Limited who supply ‘Turtle Wax’, ‘Dupli-color Holts’, and other Holts

range products.

Lastly we

are grateful to all of those people at Sparkford who

helped in the production of this manual. Particularly Brian Horsfall and Les Brazier who carried out the mechanical work and took the photographs, respectively, Lee Saunders who planned the layout of each page, and David Neilson who edited the text.

About this manual Its aim The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your car. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work

paragraphs (or sub-sections), with decimal numbers following on from the Section they are in, eg 5.1, 5.2, 5.3 etc.

must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage), provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the Manual by tackling the work

It is freely illustrated, especially in those parts where there is a detailed sequence of operations to be carried out. There are two forms of illustration: figures and photographs. The figures are numbered in sequence with decimal numbers, according to their position in the Chapter: eg Fig. 6.4 is the 4th drawing/illustration in Chapter 6.

yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car

into a garage, and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs the garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads. The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Then the tasks are described and photographed in a step-by-step sequence so that even a novice can do the work.

/ts arrangement The manual is divided into twelve Chapters, each covering a logical sub-division of the vehicle. The Chapters are each divided into Sections, numbered with single figures, eg 5; and the Sections into

Photographs are numbered (either individually or in related groups) the same as the Section or sub-section of the text where the operation they show is described. There is an alphabetical index at the back of the manual as well as a contents list at the front. References to the ‘left’ or ‘right’ of the vehicle are in the sense of a person in a seat facing forwards. Whilst every care is taken to ensure that the information in this manual is correct no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

‘

Introduction to Chevrolet/Chevelle range The very long production run of the models covered by this manual must indicate the sales success which they have enjoyed. Although the bodystyling and trim have been regularly modified to meet fashion changes, the basic mechanical design has remained unchanged except for refinements and improvements. For this

maintenance

reason

can

alone,

be

reliability,

expected

when

simple

one

servicing

of

these

and

reduced

vehicles

is

purchased.

The body is mounted on a rugged chassis and safety features are in-built on all models.

Optional manual or automatic transmission was available on all models until 1973 but after that date, automatic transmission became standard equipment with manual transmission as an option on Chevelle versions only.

Contents Acknowledgements

2

About this manual

2

Introduction to the Chevrolet/Chevelle range

2

Buying spare parts and vehicle identification numbers

5

Tools and working facilities oe ee

ee

ee

ee

ee ele

Lubrication chart ee ee Routine maintenance eee ee Jacking and towing ee

6

eee

8

eee

9

ee

eee 10

ee

Chapter 1 Engine

11

Chapter 2 Cooling system

45

Chapter 3 Fuel system, carburation, emission control

51

Chapter 4 Ignition system

97

Chapter 5 Clutch

112

Chapter 6 Part

A Manual transmission

118

Chapter 6 Part

B Automatic transmission

141

Chapter 7 Propeller shaft

154

Chapter 8 Rear axle

159

Chapter 9 Braking system

164

Chapter 10

Electrical system

Chapter 11

Suspension and steering

Chapter 12

Bodywork and fittings

Index

1969 Chevrolet Caprice Custom Coupe

1974 Chevelle Laguna

Buying spare parts and vehicle identification numbers Buying spare parts Spare parts are available from many sources although they generally fall into two categories — those items which are supplied by a Chevrolet dealer and those which are supplied by auto accessory stores. In some cases the two facilities may be combined with an over-

the-counter service and pre-pack display area. In some cases it may be possible to obtain parts on a service-exchange basis but, where this can be done, always make sure that the parts returned are clean and intact. Our advice regarding spare parts purchase is as follows: Chevrolet dealers: This is the best source of supply for major items such as place to warranty Auto

transmissions, engines, body panels, etc. It is also the only obtain parts if your vehicle is still under warranty, since the may be invalidated if non-Chevrolet parts are used. accessory stores: Auto accessory stores are able to supply

practically all of the items needed for repair, maintenance, tune-up and customizing. This is not only true for the vehicle but also for tools and test equipment.

TYPE

BODY

UNIT

NUMBER

N as

123456 aH : $23

BDY

al

CERITIFIES TO THE DEALIER THAT THIS VEHICLE CONFORMS TO AJ_L U.S. FEDERAL MO VEHICLE SAFETY STANDARDS APPLICABLE |AT TIME OF MANUFACTURE UPPER BODY COLOR FABRIC TOP OR CONV. TOP COLOR

CODE

TRIM COMBINATION NUMBER

MODULAR

Engine — Located on pad, front right-hand side of cylinder block.

BY FISHER]

bee

Macbee ESB Eee 76 Shiai SEAT CODE FOR GMAD | TR ,0000, "AST

BUILT

(Chevelle).

PLANT

MODEL YEAR

TIME

Modifications are a continuing and unpublicised process in vehicle manufacture. Spare parts manuals and lists are compiled on a numerical basis, the individual vehicle numbers being essential to identify correctly, the component required. The following identification numbers are applicable. Vehicle Serial Number Plate — Located on top of instrument panel, left front. Body number, trim and point plate —.Located on dash panel, upper right-hand side (Chevrolet) or on dash panel upper left-hand side

STYLE

ASSEMBLY

DIVISION

see

Vehicle identification numbers

OPTION DESIGNATION ( for plant use}

SERIES BODY

Whichever source of spare parts is used it will be essential to provide information concerning the model and year of manufacture of your vehicle.

SEAT

CODE

LOWER

BODY

COLOR

Typical body number plate

Tools and working facilities Introduction

Repair and overhaul tool kit

A selection of good tools is a fundamental requirement for anyone contemplating the maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle. For the owner who does not possess any, their purchase will prove a considerable expense, offsetting some of the savings made by doing-ityourself. However, provided that the tools purchased are of good quality, they will last for many years and prove an extremely worthwhile investment. To help the average owner to decide which tools are needed to carry out the various tasks detailed in this manual, we have compiled three lists of tools under the following headings: Maintenance and minor repair, Repair and overhaul, and Special. The newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit and confine himself to the simpler jobs around the vehicle. Then, as his confidence and experience grow, he can undertake more difficult tasks, buying extra tools as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a Maintenance and minor repair tool kit can be built-up into a Repair and overhaul tool kit over a considerable period of time without any major cash outlays. The experienced do-ityourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the Specia/ category when he feels the expense is justified by the amount of use these tools will be

These tools are virtually essential for anyone undertaking any major repairs to a motor vehicle, and are additional to those given in the

put to.

Maintenance and minor repair \ist. Included in this list is a comprehensive set of sockets. Although these are expensive they will be found invaluable as they are so versatile - particularly if various drives are included in the set. We recommend the ¢ inch square-drive type, as this can be used with most proprietary torque wrenches. If you cannot afford a socket set, even bought piecemeal, then inexpensive tubular box wrenches are a useful alternative. The tools in this list will occasionally need to be supplemented by tools from the Specia/ list.

Sockets (or box wrenches) to cover range % to 3 in AF or 6 to 12 mm

4

Reversible ratchet drive (for use with sockets) Extension piece, 10 inch (for use with sockets) Universal joint (for use with sockets) Torque wrench (for use with sockets) Self-grip wrench - 8 inch Ball pein hammer Soft-faced hammer, plastic or rubber

For those who wish to learn more about tools and their use there is a book entitled How to Choose and Use Car Tools available from the publishers of this manual.

Screwdriver Screwdriver Screwdriver Screwdriver

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit

Pliers - electricians side cutters Pliers - needle nosed Pliers - circlip (internal and external)

It is obviously not possible to cover the subject of tools fully here.

The tools given in this list should be considered as a minimum requirement if routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair operations are to be undertaken. We recommend the purchase of combination wrenches (ring one end, open-ended the other); although more expensive than open-ended ones, they do give the advantages of both types of wrench.

Combination wrenches - } to } in AF or 6 to 12 mm Adjustable wrench - 9 inch Engine oilpan/transmission/rear axle drain plug key (where applic-

able) Spark plug wrench (with rubber insert) Spark plug gap adjustment tool Set of feeler gauges Brake adjuster wrench (where applicable) Brake bleed nipple wrench

Screwdriver - 4 in long x } in dia (flat blade) Screwdriver - 4 in long x t in dia (cross blade) Combination pliers - 6 inch Hacksaw, junior

Tire pump Tire pressure gauge

Grease gun (where applicable) Oil can Fine emery cloth (1 sheet)

Wire brush (small) Funnel (medium size)

-

6 in long x 3 in dia (flat blade) 2 in long x % in square (flat blade) 14 in long x $ in dia (cross blade) 3 in long x 4 in dia (electricians)

Cold chisel - 4 inch Scriber (this can be made by grinding the end of a broken hacksaw blade) Scraper (this can be made by flattening and sharpening one end of a piece of copper pipe) Center punch Pin punch

Hacksaw Valve grinding tool

Steel rule/straight edge Allen keys Selection of files Wire brush (large) Jack stands Jack (strong scissor or hydraulic type)

Special tools The tools in this list are those which

are not used regularly, are

expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their

manufacturers’ instructions. Unless relatively difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken frequently, it will not be economic to buy many of these tools. Where this is the case, you could consider clubbing together with friends (or an automobile owners’ club) to make a joint purchase, or borrowing the tools against a deposit from a local service station or tool hire specialist.

Tools and working facilities

ee The following list contains only those tools and instruments freely available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealer network. You will find occasional references to these manufacturers’ special tools in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the vehicle manufacturer's special tool is given. However, sometimes, there is no alternative to using them. Where this is the case and the relevant tool cannot be bought or borrowed you will have to entrust the work to a franchised dealer.

Wrench jaw gap comparison table

Valve spring compressor Piston ring compressor Balljoint separator

Universal hub/bearing puller Impact screwdriver Micrometer and/or vernier gauge Dial gauge Stroboscopic timing light

Dwell angle meter/tachometer Universal electrical multi-meter Cylinder compression gauge Lifting tackle Workshop trolley jack Light with extension lead

Jaw gap (in)

Wrench size

0-250

fin AF

0-275

7 mm AF

0-312 0-315 0-340 0.354 0-375 0-393 0-433 0.437 0-445 0.472 0-500 0-512 0-525 0-551 0-562 0-590 0-600

% in AF 8 mm AF % in AF;4 in Whitworth 9 mm AF $ in AF 10 mm AF 11 mm AF % in AF # in Whitworth;4 in BSF 12 mm AF + in AF 13 mm AF 4 in Whitworth; % in BSF 14mm AF & in AF 15 mm AF 3 in Whitworth; ¢ in BSF

0-629 0:669

16 mm AF 17 mm AF

0-687

13 in AF

0-625

Buying tools For practically all tools, a tool factor is the best source since he will have a very comprehensive range compared with the average repair station or accessory store. Having said that, accessory stores often offer excellent quality tools at discount prices, so it pays to shop around. Remember, you don't have to buy the most expensive items on the _ shelf, but it is always advisable to steer clear of the very cheap tools. There are plenty of good tools around at reasonable prices, so ask the proprietor er manager of the shop for advice before making a purchase.

Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is necessary to keep the tools in a clean serviceable condition. After use, always wipe off any dirt, grease and metal particles using a clean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away. Never leave them lying around after they have been used. A simple tool rack on the garage or workshop wall, for items such as screwdrivers and pliers is a good idea. Store all normal spanners and sockets in a metal box. Any measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc, must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged or become rusty. Take a little care when the tools are used. Hammer heads inevitably become marked and screwdrivers loose the keen edge on their blades from time-to-time. A little timely attention with emery cloth or a file will soon restore items like this to a good serviceable finish.

18 mm AF

0-710 0-748 0-750 0-812 0-820 0-866 0.875 0-920

$ in Whitworth; % in BSF 19 mm AF fin AF #8 in AF % in Whitworth; + in BSF 22 mm AF $ in AF + in Whitworth; % in BSF

0-944 1-000

24 mm AF 1 in AF

1-010

& in Whitworth; $ in BSF

1-023 1-062 1-100 1-125 1-181 1-200

26 mm AF 14inAF;27 mm AF $ in Whitworth; #{ in BSF 14 in AF 30 mm AF 1g in Whitworth; ¢ in BSF

# in AF

1-250

14 in AF

e259 1-300

32 mm AF 3 in Whitworth; $ in BSF

1-390

#3 in Whitworth; # in BSF

1-417 1-437

36 mm AF 1% in AF

1-480 1-500 1-574 1-614

$ in Whitworth; 1 in BSF 14 in AF 40 mm AF; 2 in Whitworth 41 mm AF

1-625 1-670

1% in AF 1 in Whitworth; 14 in BSF

1-811

46 mm AF

15312

Working facilities

¥ in AF

0-708

0-937

Care and maintenance of tools

Not to be forgotten when discussing tools, is the workshop itself. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some form of suitable working area becomes essential. It is appreciated that many an owner mechanic is forced by circumstances to remove an engine or similar item, without the benefit of a garage or workshop. Having done this, any repairs should always be done under the cover of a roof. Wherever possible, any dismantling should be done on a clean flat workbench or table at a suitable working height. Any workbench needs a vise: one with a jaw opening of 4 in (100 mm) is suitable for most jobs. As mentioned previously, some clean dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as the lubricants, cleaning fluids, touch-up paints and so on which soon become necessary. Another item which may be required, and which has a much more general usage, is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of at least % in (8 mm). This, together with a good range of twist drills, is virtually essential for fitting accessories such as wing mirrors and back-up lights. Last, but not least, always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean, lint-free rags available, and try to keep any working area as clean as possible.

ee

1-687

1-812 1-860

18 in AF

1H in AF 1B in AF

14 in Whitworth; 14 in BSF

1-875

1f in AF

1-968 2-000

50 mm AF 2 in AF

2-165 2-362

55 mm AF 60 mm AF

2.050

14 in Whitworth; 1} in BSF

Thread sizes On all vehicles built up until 1976, customary

(coarse and fine

pitch) fasteners are used. Commencing with 1977 models, metric threads were introduced. The fasteners on B Series vehicles are predominantly metric after that date, while A Series vehicles may have fasteners of customary and metric type.

Chevrolet lubrication diagram Engine

7

Transmission Rear axle Steering box

Parking brake cables 8 Propeller shaft rear joint 9 10 Front wheel bearings

Front suspension

Power steering reservoir

11

Chevelle/Monte Carlo lubrication diagram Key as for Chevrolet diagram except for (9) propeller shaft rear joint

Brake master cylinder reservoir

Steering linkage

Recommended Component

lubricants

Lubricant type

Engine (1)*

Component

Lubricant type

Rear axle (3)

—SOStorZOSF.

ae eesae SAE SAE OCSTO GOS Eee eacntacar SAE SAE SAE SAE ZOcetOnOOci paneereeeSAE SAE SAE SAE SAE

5W — 5W — 10W 5W 10W 10W 20W 10W 10W 20W 20W

20 30

30 — 30 - 40 - 20 - 30 - 40 - 40 — 50

* Engine lubricants must meet SE requirements

Standard)

gcse ae cee

SAE 80 GL5 gear oil SAE 90 GL5 gear oil Fositractionieci-aenacnneea. GM 1051022 gear oil

Steering box (4)

........... GM 1051052 grease

Power steering reservoir (5)

. .Dexron |! fluid

Steering linkage (6)

........ GM 6031-—M grease

Front suspension(7)

........ GM 6031-—M grease

Parking brake cables (8)

..... GM 6031-M grease

and oil containers should be so marked

Propeller shaft rear joint (9) Transmission (2)

Maritialliit

eos ater cmpeetck: SAE 80 GL5 gear oil SAE 90 GL5 gear oil

AGLOMAati Cer neue oncats fye cece Dexron II fluid

Front wheel bearings (10)

Brake master cylinder (11)

..GM 1050679 grease ... .GM 6031—M

grease

...Delco Supreme 11 or DOT-3 fluid

Routine maintenance Maintenance is essential for ensuring safety and desirable for the purpose of getting the best in terms of performance and economy from the car. Over the years the need for periodic lubrication — oiling, greasing and so on — has been drastically reduced if not totally eliminated. This has unfortunately tended to lead some owners to think that because no such action is required the items either no longer exist or will last for ever. This is a serious delusion. It follows therefore that the largest initial element of maintenance is visual examination. This may

lead to repairs or renewal. On vehicles built up until 1974, the original service interval was specified in multiples of 6000 miles. Since 1975, this interval has been increased to 7500. In view of the improvements which have taken place in lubricants and replacement components, the maintenance intervals may be extended for earlier vehicles without any increase in wear being anticipated. Where any vehicle is used under very arduous conditions, in dusty

atmospheres or under stop/start conditions where the engine never really warms up, then the maintenance intervals for such items as engine oil and filters should be halved.

Fy RECOMMENDED VEHICLE LOAD UP

TO VEHICLE CAPACITY UP

TO 5 OCCUPANTS 250 [BS MAXIMUM

RECOMMENDED TIRE SIZE(S) (USE

ONLY

XXX(X)XX BECAUSE

IN

OF

POSSIBLE

LOAD

RANGE

ADVERSE

EFFECTS

ON

TOTAL SEE

5 OCCUPANTS

3 REAR

1100

OWNERS

2 FRONT

LOAD

LBS

MANUAL

KKK

3 REAR

200 (BS TRUNK

TOTAL FOR

ADDITIONAL

950

(LOAD

LBS

I WS ORMATION

PRINTED

IN USA

Typical tire placard located on edge of front door

After the first 7500 miles or at the end of the first six months (new vehicles only) Renew engine oil and filter Check operation of themostatically-operated air cleaner Check that the carburetor choke is operating correctly Check that the manifold heat valve is operating Check that the early fuel evaporation valve (EFE valve) is operating Torque-tighten the carburetor mounting nuts/bolts Check and adjust the ignition timing Check and adjust the engine idle speed

%"" BELOW TOP EDGE

Every 7500 miles or at six monthly intervals Lubricate propeller shaft rear universal joint Lubricate suspension, hinges, controls Check transmission fluid level and top up Check rear axle oil level and top up Change engine oil Check and top up power steering fluid Check and top up brake hydraulic fluid Rotate position of roadwheels (to even out tire wear) Inspect exhaust system for corrosion

Check and adjust clutch pedal free movement

X

XX(X) XXX

CAPACITY BUCKET SEAT

6 OCCUPANTS

XXX

tire pressures (cold) and examine for wear or damage coolant level engine oil level battery electrolyte level washer fluid level operation of all lamps and windshield wipers

XXK(X)XKX

VEHICLE BENCH SEAT 3 FRONT

Check Check Check Check Check Check

SETS)

VEHICLE HANDLING, DO NOT MIX RADIAL TIRES WITH OTHER TYPE TIRES ON THE SAME VEHICLE

200 LBS TRUNK

Every 250 miles or weekly — whichever comes first

TIRE PRESSURES (PSI COLD) FRONT — REAR

Brake fluid reservoir level

10

Routine maintenance for trailer hauling when

oil should be renewed

at every 15 000 mile

interval. (This also applies to standard type rear axles) Have steering angles and toe-in checked

Every 22 500 miles or at 18 monthly intervals

Ja AOA0™ 1/4” DEFLECTION

13” TO 16” oo 1/2” DEFLECTION

Check Check Check Check Check Check Check Check Check

and adjust engine idle speed carburetor choke operation EFE valve operation carburetor mounting nuts for torque TCS system spark plug HT wires idle stop solenoid dwell angle, renew points if necessary ignition timing and adjust

Every 30 000 miles or at two yearly intervals Drivebelt deflection diagram

Every 15 000 miles or at twelve monthly intervals Renew brake hydraulic fluid, by bleeding system Check drivebelt tension and adjust Inspect brake lining and pad wear Check underbody for corrosion, clean and re-coat as necessary Check steering linkage and suspension for wear Inspect brake lines and renew if necessary Renew fuel filter (carburetor inlet) Check condition of energy absorbing bumpers Renew PCV filter Clean EGR valve Check operation and connections of all emission control systems

Repack front wheel bearings and adjust Check for ‘lost’ movement in steering gear, also for grease leakage from steering box oil seals Lubricate clutch cross shaft Check ECS system and renew filter Check fuel filler cap, tank and vent lines Renew air cleaner element Check and adjust mechanical valve lifters

Every 60 000 miles or at four yearly intervals Change automatic transmission fluid and renew filter Renew brake hydraulic component seals

Renew spark plugs Inspect cooling system hoses, clean exterior of radiator and condenser

Every two years (in the fall)

cores Change Pozitraction rear axle oil (first 15 O00 miles only) unless used

Drain and flush the cooling system. Refill with antifreeze mixture.

Jacking and towing Jacking

COLUMN

The jack supplied in the vehicle tool kit should only be used for changing a roadwheel after a flat on the highway. Never attempt to work under the car using this type of jack. For repairs and maintenance, use either a hydraulic jack or trolley type jack and once the vehicle is raised, support the frame with axlestands. Jacks are best located under the front crossmember, under the side rails or under the differential.

Towing Towing

may be carried out by another vehicle provided that the

transmission is in neutral and the steering column is unlocked (ignition key in the ‘OFF’ position). Cars equipped with manual transmission may be towed or push started provided that a catalytic converter is not fitted. Cars equipped with automatic transmission must not be towed above a speed of 35 mph or for distances greater than 50 miles unless the propeller shaft is disconnected.

Vehicle jack

Chapter 1 Engine Contents

Camshaft and bearings — examination and renovation Camshaft, timing chain and sprockets — installation .......... Crankshaft and bearings — examination and renovation ....... Crankshaft and main bearings — installation ............... Crankshaft front oil seal — renewal with BNGIOSINVehiClOmermwec tees eis ss eic ceceferentiene ne Fe Gs. ake tec ke tse Crankshaft main bearings and oil seals—removal ........... Cylinder block — examination and renovation ............... Cylinder head and manifolds — installation ................ Cylinder head—reassembly .............. 00000 e ee eeee Cylinder head — decarbonising, examination ANG SCIVICINGismeesere Hem eis Severin Ae > Gen wane Oe clots es ok Cylinderhead'—cismantlingi= cnc om s2 = assy tes ee eens 6 Goes BCVA Gad. —=TeOMOVAl =aktacicr. ciel ecis tia fuvede oe oem aie. Engine ancillary components — installation ................ Engine ancillary components—removal ..............0005

Engine — dismantling (general) ..............000 eee eae Engine mounts — renewal with engine invehicle ............ Engine — reassembly (general) ............ 000.00 see uee Engine — removal and installation (complete WICMtLOn Sit) ISSION) Meera tices ces sic iela tales ev-ve, cee eee Rhee: Secs Engine — removal and installation (independent OLCrAMSIMISSION) ecwe feathery kesh 8 wa oss oltre) Ses aah inns felverat.cvermine

36 20 33 44 17 21 39 38

................005.

OilifilteF= Servicing: «tes aesste sents oe, bummer Oil pan (engine in vehicle) up to 1970 — removaliand|installationy

5

ss... eer

cr ie

tere eRe

neice

einen

2.00

«aortas

ool

ke acuroue atari

cee ieee aetna Oilipumprandioilipani—installationieaer scien creer Oil pump — dismantling, examination and reassembly 2.4.5 .siciattcg ahametear a eae cine pon casement eae Oil pump—removal Sa" siis dae cestode saya ea ere eee eee

Pistons Pistons, TOMOVAls Pistons,

and connecting rods—installation ................ connecting rods and bearings — Peyrs, srdek BRN enecence ameter estas rayin ite aniasect kee tae piston pins and rings—servicing ...............45

19

description:andiservicingy sc, craic aye ries tee Timing chain sprockets and camshaft—removal

12 37 24 13 34 i 22

26 14

Valves and valve seats — examination and FEMOVATION ci5). x et Gus eile: asnisopucl nsSeat sapts, avon neues adentautuney tonite eereae Valve guides and springs — examination and

28

FENOVAtIONe

wa ele

Oceuce ae ice

nent ae)

ee

Valve lashi— adjustment.” sis..15.. sae res at eee een cl) setae ae Valve lifters — examination and renovation ................

V8 water-cooled, overhead valve 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

Engine availability and performance

1969 models Horsepower @ rpm

Torque

Compression ratio

9.0:1 9.0:1 9.0:1 10.25: 1 9.0:1

2GV (14) 2GV (14) 4MV 4MV 2GV (14)

200 235 255 300 265

4600 4800 4800 4800 4800

Ibf ft o rpm 300 @ 2400 325 @ 2800 365 @ 3200 300 @ 3200 400 @ 2800

396

4MV

325 @ 4800

410 @ 3200

10.25: 1

396

4MV

350 @ 5200

415 @ 3400

TOR

@ @ @ @ @

11

cite ee nem eene ............

Engine — general

Carburetor type

10

Positive Crankcase Vetilation (PCV) system —

4

ily (DG aN aS st cecreicoiel. a,sucess rsice s.Pellelo/ oye ello e layoer auarie hous Fini MONOrmearteren a ee atone cheveueusiep suse e stansee Teresa lsho scan wisceusy

(cu in) 307 eV27/ 350 350 396

nee

Oil pan (engine removed from vehicle) — removalbandiinstallation) “S24 cscas tue oer ao

Specifications

Displacement

25

Oil pan (engine in vehicle) 1971 on— removallandiinstallation:.

PAT 9 8 41 18 7 43 32

Engine — removal and installation methods ANCIPFaCAUTIONS = r.uaguormsee tt clans sues. iors, e mnealsincd sletnrale eras 3 Engine repair operations — general notes ...............+. 2 Engine start up after major repairor overhaul ............-.. 42 Engine/transmission removed — separation BHCMECONNECHONI sicher tes ie os bod korea a Os Qe aw s ees 6

Examination and renovation (general)

Fatiitidiagnosis— engine’ ..4c sad een eee ne me iene 45 Flywheel and starter ring gear—examination .............. 31 Flywheel (driveplate — automatic transmission) — IMStAllAtiON pcs els. cicessete eee eeSate eee pote ees eel Ateek epee 35 Flywheel (driveplate — automatic transmission) — FOMOVE eis ee fo asA evan oyss cute ene EE Tee enohne een ont one heme 16 Generalidescriptions =< cn... mek ei en ce tucson eee 1

Seat

29 40 30

Chapter 1 Engine

12

SSS

4MV 4MV

375 @ 5600 335 @ 4800 390 @ 4800

460 @ 3200 415 @ 3600 460 e 3600

Oe 10:25 OZ Sra

Displacement (cu in)

Carburetor type

Horsepower @ rpm

Torque Ibf ft 2 rpm

Compression ratio

307 350 350 396 396 400

2GV 2GV 4MV

300 345 380 415 415 400 410 500 500 500

9.0:1

2GV 4MV 4MV 4MV Holley 4150

200 250 300 350 375 265 330 345 390 450

Displacement (cu in)

Carburetor type

Horsepower @ rpm

Torque Ibf ft @ rpm

307 350 350 400 402 454 454

2GV 2GV 4MV (4QJ) 2GV 4MV (4QJ) 4MV (4QJ) Holley 4150

200 @ 4600 245 @ 2800 270 @ 4800 255 @ 4400 300 @ 4800 365 @ 4800 425 @ 5600

300 350 360 390 400 465 475

Carburetor type

Horsepower e rpm

Torque Ibf ft @ rpm

2GV 2GV 4MV 4MV 2GV 4MV 4MV

200 165 175 255 170 240 270

230 280 280 280 325 345 390

396 427 427

Holley 4150

1970 models

400 454 454 454

4amv Holley 4150

@ @ @ @ @ @ e @ @ @

4600 4800 4800 5200 5600 4400 4800 4400 4800 5600

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ e @

2400 2800 3200 3400 3600 2400 3200 3000 3400 3600

9.0:1

10.25: 1 10.2531 14.031 9.0:1

10.25: 1 10.25: 1 10.25: 1 11.25: 1

1971 models @ e @ @ @ @ @

Com pression ratio

2400 2800 3200 2400 3200 4000 4000

1972 models Displacement (cu in) 307 350 350 350 400 402 454

(40J) (40J) (40J) (4QJ)

@ @ @ @ @ @ @

4600 4000 4000 5600 3400 4400 4000

@ @ @ @ @ @ @

2400 2400 2400 4000 2000 2400 3200

1973 models Carburetor type

Horsepower @ rpm

Torque Ibf ft @ rpm

Compression ratio

2GV 2GV 4MV (4QJ) 2GV 4MV

115 @ 4000 145 @ 4000 175 @ 4000 150 @ 3200 215 @ 4000

205 255 260 295 345

8.5: S551 8.5:1 8.5:1 8.5:1

Displacement

Carburetor type

Horsepower @ rpm

(cu in) 350 350 350 400 400 454

Torque Ibf ft @ rpm

2GV 4MV 4MV 2GV 4MV 4MV

145 @ 3600 160 @ 3800 185 @ 4400 150 @ 3200 180 @ 3800 235 @ 4000

250 245 270 295 290 360

Displacement (cu in)

Carburetor type

Horsepower @ rpm

Torque

350 350 400 400 454

2GC M4MCA 2GC M4MC M4MC

145 195 150 180 215

Ibf ft o rpm 250 @ 2200 275 @ 2800 295 @ 2000 290 @ 2400 350 @ 2400

Displacement (cu in)

Carburetor type

Horsepower @ rpm

Compression ratio

305 350 350 400 454

2GC 2GC M4MC M4MC M4ME

Torque Ibf ft @ rpm

140 145 165 175 235

245 250 260 305 360

8.5:1 SHG) 84 8.5:1 8.5:1 St5ient

Displacement (cu in) 307 350 350 400 454

@ @ @ @ @

2000 2400 2800 2000 2400

1

1974 models @ @ @ @ @ @

2200 2400 2800 2000 2400 2800

1975 models @ @ @ @ @

3600 4400 3200 3800 4000

1976 models @ @ @ @ @

3800 3800 3800 3600 4000

@ @ @ @ @

2000 2200 2400 2000 2800

Chapter 1 Engine er

ee

es

1977 models Displacement

Carburetor type

(cu in) 305 350

2GC M4MC

Horsepower @ rpm

Torque

Compression ratio

140 @ 3800 165 @ 3800

Ibf ft @ rpm 245 @ 2000 260 @ 2400

8:53)1 85a

General engine dimensions Engine Displacement Bore (in) Stroke (in) Cylinder bore (diameter) (in) at of round (max) in Taper (max) (in)

305cuin

307cuin

327cuin

350cuin

396cuin

400cuin

402cuin

427cuin

454cuin

3.736 3.48 3.73503.7385 0.002

3.875 3.25 3.87453.8775 0.002

4.00 3.25 3.99954.0025 0.002

4.00 3.48 3.99954.0025 0.002

4.09 3.76 4.09254.0995 0.002

4.125 3.75 4.12464.1274 0.002

4.126 3.76 4.12464.1274 0.002

4.25 3.76 4.24954.2525 0.002

4.25 4.00 4.24954.2525 0.002

0.005

0.005

0.005

0.005

0.005

0.005

0.005

0.005

0.005

* Piston oversizes available 0.001 and 0.030 in

Engine specifications — 1969 models All dimensions in inches

Pistons and piston rings Piston clearance in bore

327, 350 and 396 (265, 325, 350 hp) and

APTMSS 57490 Np IONgiNeSs aes choice enti os ys sean eer 396 (375 hp) and 427 (425 hp) engines .................. Piston ring clearance in groove 3O7sandes2 7(210, 235 hp) engines = NOpl« as. .47646s a QING ee cageme te obs eioust steitss hans Oilicontrolweeee ieee eee SOOLENGING MeOP tea wenaieesite. steels. herons AGUS Giotd ete kswsArecanscird 4 PALA ecoa ehRRC ONCE Ce,ORCL ROPER: CRAY OTE RCE RPE NT Oilicontrolieiis

a. ese. othe

Oe esa d Sanne

acs woAut

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SOGrandr42vcenginemlOpuriereciicieiiccrciease vara eed ciaiay 2nd (SOC) awerci is alto ereketaies ete were UA 27 aeyencccmceuets COS cishesecinhetuni ayers

OM CeMi@) Piston ring end gap BOTEENGING BEMlOD eye

asoovcecccsvnemocongoc

reysyotena cuseokan «Sue eeuainekGkk ealtelome sv ho

2 Ce

erie Coke

Oiliconttolleveatemstcns OZ Aes OOlENGINCS MENLODmraewatcas

tore ts Stoke) cereus lus Ainie S

0.0025 0.0065 0.0012—0.0027 0.0012—0.0032 0.000—0.005 0.0012-—0.0032

0.0012—0.0027 0.000—0.005

0.001 7-—0.0032 0.001 7—0.0032 0.0012-0.0032

0.005—0.0065 0.010—0.020

0.010—0.020

crete Cesc cee OPes)cpartuayecroutindete ashen cues Cece: seeks on \

|

ge)

/

STOPLIGHT et CONNECTO © e) (=)

WITHOUT CRUISE MASTER Fig. 9.23 Stop lamp switch detail

Fig. 9.22 Brake pedal 1974 on any worn bushings and lubricate on reassembly which is a reversal of 11 1

Disc and drum — inspection and renovation

removal and dismantling.

Whenever

4 On vehicles without a power booster, adjust the brake pedal by releasing the push rod locknut and turning the pushrod in or out to give

the disc brake pads are inspected for wear, take the

opportunity to check the condition of the disc (rotor) surfaces. Light

between 4 and ¢ in free movement. Tighten the locknut to 14 Ibf ft.

scoring or grooving is normal but deep grooves or severe erosion are not. 2 If vibration has been noticed during application of the brake pedal, suspect disc runout. 3 To check this, a dial gauge will be required or the use of feeler blades between the disc and a fixed point. 4 Turn the disc slowly and check that the runout does not exceed 0.004 in. 5 Sometimes the different wearing characteristics of the disc material may cause it to wear to uneven thickness. Any variation in thickness over 0.0005 in will also cause vibration during brake

5 6

Adjust the brake stop lamp switch as described in Section 14. Check the clutch pedal free play as described in Chapter 5.

13

Brake pedal (1974 on) — removal and installation

1

On Chevelle models, disconnect the clutch pedal return spring.

application. 6 Discs usually have the wear

limit and refinish thickness dimen-

sions cast into them. 7 lf your dealer cannot refinish a disc to come within the specified tolerances then a new disc must be installed (refer to front suspension, Chapter 11). 8 Whenever a brake drum is removed for lining inspection, check the drum for cracks, scoring or out of round. 9 An out of round drum will usually give rise to a pulsating feeling of the brake pedal as the brakes are applied. The internal diameter should be checked at several different points using an internal micrometer. Drums can be refinished internally provided the wear and refinish sizes cast into it are not exceeded.

12

2 Extract the clip retainer from the push rod pin. 3 Unscrew the nut from the end of the pedal pivot shaft and withdraw the shaft far enough to be able to remove the pedal spacer and bushings. 4 Renew and lubricate bushings as necessary. 5 Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure.

14

Stop lamp switch — adjustment

1. The brake stop lamp switch should actuate (with ignition on) if the brake pedal is depressed between } and $ in from the fully released position. 2 Adjustment can be made if the brake pedal is first depressed and the switch (threaded) socket released from the bracket notch and screwed in or out as required.

Brake pedal (1969 thru 1973) — removal and installation

1 On manual transmission models, disconnect the clutch pedal return spring and disconnect the clutch push rod from the pedal arm. 2 /f a power booster is not fitted, disconnect the brake pedal return spring and then disconnect the master cylinder push rod from the pedal arm. Extract the retainer from the right-hand side of the pedal pivot shaft. Slide the clutch pedal to the left and remove it from the

support brace (see Chapter 5, Section 3). Withdraw the brake pedal and nylon bushings. 3 /f a power booster is fitted, loosen the booster mounting nuts enough to allow the push rod to slide off the pedal pin. Extract the clip retainer from the pedal pin and remove the push rod. Remove the

15

1 Adjustment of the parking brake .is normally automatic and is Carried out by adjustment of the rear shoes whenever the vehicle is moved in reverse and the brakes applied. 2 Additional adjustment may be required however in the event of

cable stretch or the fitting of new brake cables. 3. The parking brake should be fully applied after it has depressed over the following number of ratchet teeth (‘clicks’).

pedal pivot shaft nut and slide the pivot bolt out of the mounting bracket. The brake pedal and bushings can now be removed.

Renew

Parking brake — adjustment

4

been

A Series 10to 14 B Series 9to 16 If adjustment is required, depress the parking brake pedal 1 click

—

SS

[NOTE] CABLE MUST NOT BE KINKED BELOW THIS POINT . FRAME

—

Ge Fay ee

Se

viewD| Fig. 9.24 Typical parking brake arrangement (A models)

Fig. 9.25 Typical parking brake arrangement (B modeis)

176

Chapter 9 Braking system

(B models) or 3 clicks (A models). Jack up the rear of the car. 5 Tighten the adjusting nut on the equalizer until the left-hand rear roadwheel can just be turned in the reverse direction of rotation using two hands but is too stiff to turn forwards. 6 Now release the parking brake pedal and check that the roadwheels are completely free to rotate in both directions without any brake drag.

16

Parking brake pedal — removal and installation

1. Disconnect the battery ground cable and the parking brake warning switch wire. 2 Remove the clip and ball from the clevis (if necessary, the equalizer nut can be slackened).

3

Remove

the pedal

rear

mounting

bolt and

the nuts from

the

mounting studs at the front of the dash panel (under the hood).

4

Remove the pedal assembly.

5

Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure, but the nuts

and pedal rear mounting bolt must be torque tightened.

17

Parking brake cables — renewal

Front cable 1 2 ing 3

Disconnect the battery ground cable. Remove the front cable from the swivel after removing the retainclips and pulling out the ball. Compress the locking fingers and push the front cable out of the

dash panel. 4 Raise the front end of the vehicle. 5 Remove the equalizer nut and remove

the front cable from the

equalizer.

6 Remove the cable clip at the frame and withdraw the cable. 7 When installing, feed the stud end of the cable through the frame and secure it with a clip. 8 Feed the cable through the hold in the dash panel, making sure that the locking fingers are fully expanded and secured in the cut out. 9 Install the ball end in the swivel, install the clip. 10 Connect the stud end to the center at the equalizer then adjust the brake as described in Section 15. 11 Lower the vehicle and connect the battery ground cable.

Center and rear cables 12 Raise the vehicle, then remove the equalizer nut and separate the front and center cables. 13 Remove the center cable from the cable connectors; remove the

pressures

will be noticed. Alternative

types of power

brake booster

have been used; these are the Delco-Moraine and the Bendix types.

The principle of operation is similar in each case, and the descriptive cycle given in the following paragraph is applicable to both types. 3 Brakes released: |n the ‘at rest’ condition with the engine running, is present on both sides of the power piston. Air at vacuum atmospheric pressure, entering through the filter behind the pushrod, is shut off at the air valve. The floating control valve is held away from the seat in the power piston insert. Any air in the system is drawn through a small passage in the power piston, past the power piston insert valve seat to the insert itself. It then travels through a drilling in the support plate, into the space in front of the power piston then to the intake manifold via a check valve. Vacuum therefore exists on both sides of the power piston which is held against the rear of the housing under spring action. 4 Brake application: When the pedal is depressed, the pushrod carries the air valve away from the floating control valve. The floating control valve will follow until it contacts the raised seat in the power piston insert; vacuum is now shut off to the rear power piston and atmospheric air enters through the filter‘past the air valve seat and through a passage into the housing at the rear of the power piston. The power piston therefore moves forward to operate the floating piston assembly of the hydraulic master cylinder. As pressure increases on the end of the master cylinder piston, the hydraulic reaction plate is moved off its seat on the lower piston and contacts the reaction levers. These levers swing on their pivots and bear against the end of the air valve operating rod assembly to provide a feed back (approximately 30% of the master cylinder load) to the pedal. This enables the driver to ‘feel’ the degree of brake application. 5 Brake holding: When the desired braking force is achieved the power piston moves forward until the floating control valve again seats on the air valve. The power piston will now remain stationary until there is a change in applied pedal pressure. 6 Brakes released: When the pedal pressure is released the air valve is forced back to contact the power piston under spring action. As it moves, the floating control valve is pushed off its seat on the power piston insert by the air valve. Atmospheric air is shut off by the air

valve seating on the floating control valve. As the floating control cable lifts from

its seat, it opens

manifold vacuum,

the rear of the power

piston to intake

and the power piston returns to the rear housing.

The hydraulic pressure in the brake system is released as the floating piston assembly returns to the normal position.

7 Vacuum failure: In the event of vacuum failure, ie; engine switched off or failure of the vacuum line, application of the brake pedal moves the pedal pushrod which in turn contacts the master cylinder pushrod and the brakes are applied. This gives a condition as found in the standard braking system, and a correspondingly higher pedal pressure is required.

cable from the cable guides. 14 Remove the clip from the frame bracket and release the cable from the guides. 15 Release the cable ball from the parking brake lever (the brakes must be exposed for this). 16 Compress the cable locking fingers and remove the cable from the flange plate. 17 When installing, push the rear cable through the flange plate and connect the ball to the lever. Ensure that the locking fingers are expanded on the flange plate. 18 Connect the cable to the guides and run the cable through frame bracket. Install the clip. 19 Connect the center and rear cables together, then connect

the

the center cable guides. 20 Install the equalizer to the center cable and install the front cable stud to the equalizer. 21 Set and release the parking brake 3 times, then adjust the brake as described in Section 15.

18

Power brake booster — general description

1 A power brake booster has been an option on all models since its introduction. The booster utilizes vacuum from the engine manifold. 2 In the event of a fault developing in the booster, enough vacuum is stored to provide sufficient assistance for two or three brake applications

and

after that the

performance

of the

hydraulic

part of the

braking system is only affected in so far as the need for higher pedal

“BY MODELS

Fig. 9.26 Typical power brake booster mounting

Chapter 9 Braking system 8 The power brake devise requires no special maintenance apart from periodic inspection of the hoses and inspection of the air filter beneath the boot at the pedal pushrod end. 9 Dismantling of the power brake devise requires the use of special

tools and in the event of a fault developing, it is recommended that.a new or factory-exchange unit is fitted rather than attempt to overhaul

177

pin. Remove the unit. 6 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. There is no need to bleed the hydraulic system except where the hydraulic lines have been disconnected. 7 After installation, check the brake operation, adjustment and stoplamp switch setting as described earlier in this Chapter.

the original booster. 20 19

Power brake booster air filter — cleaning or renewal

Power brake booster — removal and installation

1 Remove the vacuum hose from the check valve. 2 Remove the power brake unit to master cylinder retaining nuts. 3 Pull the master cylinder clear of the mounting studs and support it to one side of the power brake unit. Take great care when doing this not to strain the hydraulic pipes. If there is any doubt about the flexibility of the pipes, disconnect them and cap their ends.

4 5

Remove the nuts securing the power unit to the dash. Remove the pushrod to pedal retainer and slip the pushrod off the

21

Fault diagnosis — braking system

Symptom

Pedal travels almost to floor before brakes operate

1 At3 yearly intervals (earlier if very dusty operating conditions) or if the booster performance is below standard, the air filter should be removed, cleaned in soapy water and dried or renewed if severely soiled. 2 Access to the air filter is obtained if the push rod is disconnected from the brake pedal and then withdrawn. Remove the flexible boot,

extract the silencer and retainer and pull out the filter using a hooked piece of wire. 3 Install by reversing the removal operations.

Reason/s

Brake fluid level too low

Caliper or wheel cylinder leaking Master cylinder leaking (bubbles in master cylinder fluid) Brake flexible hose leaking Brake line fractured Brake system unions loose

Pad or shoe linings over 75% worn Brake adjusters not functioning

Brake pedal feels springy

New linings not yet bedded-in Brake disc or drums badly worn or cracked Master cylinder securing nuts loose

Brake servo loose (where fitted) Brake pedal feels ‘spongy’ and ‘soggy’

Caliper or wheel cylinder leaking Master cylinder leaking (bubbles in master cylinder reservoir) Brake pipe line or flexible hose leaking Unions in brake system loose

Excessive effort required to brake car

Pad or shoe linings badly worn New pads or shoes recently fitted — not yet bedded-in Harder linings fitted than standard causing increase in pedal pressure Linings and brake drums contaminated with oil, grease or hydraulic fluid Brake servo malfunction (where fitted) or faulty vacuum hose

Brakes uneven and pulling to one side

Linings

and

discs

or drums

contaminated

with

oil, grease

fluid Tire pressures unequal Brake caliper loose Brake pads or shoes fitted incorrectly Different type of linings fitted at each wheel Anchorages for front suspension or rear suspension loose Brake discs or drums badly worn, cracked or distorted

Brakes tend to bind, drag or lock-on

Rear brakes overadjusted (release automatic adjuster or cables) Air in system

or hydraulic

Chapter 10

Electrical system

Contents

Alternator — maintenance and special precautions ........... ) Alternator — removal, dismantling, reassembly and installation merarrcemiret tas catsieeecn teeter yee oer eitoteseteiet seiterets 7 Battervicnarging a cuateniario rkiscuccucis sian lak es ans i enain ome 4 Battonyi-malncenance marae cctarcietsieneie eta aieiors teeuenat cite! oan 3 Battery —removal andinstallation ............-0+eee cues 2 Balbirenewal:= front em svc cus te:ccte o -eer ncionten wieaitee woke mine e 20 Bulb renewal — instrument panel, warning and IMCICSTOM IAMS ceemecic ne ceca oes eel eee sence unm Monel 23

Power windows and Wagon tailgate ...........-e eee euee Radio — removal and installation .............020eeeeees Radio— trimmings ate cherries eicnaitees sien iean aoa memeae Rear window blower type defogger ..........00e eee eeuee Rear window grid type defogger ........... 2. e cence eeee Seat belt'warningisystem) Giccue sets enol etian ae eermCn Speaker — removal and installation ........... 0.0. eaeeee Speedometer cable—renewal ........ 0.00. eevee even eee Starter motor — dismantling and component testing ..........

Bulb renewal -—interiorlamps

Starter motor — general description

Bulbirenewal/—rear@nd)

....... kok

we dapFokeile Saeacallahcieah ous 22

= opcmscces ae soacetoercene. os) lorpany cipseedhios @)atm tts 21

..............0.0000-

Starter motor — reassembly and adjustment

46 39 40 48 47 43 41 747) 11

8

...............

lz

10

Cigar lighter — removal and installation ..............+.0-, Fault diagnosis — electrical system ..........0 0505 eee eee Fuses, fusible links and circuit breakers ..............004.

26 49 14

Starter motor — removal and installation .........6.....08Starter motor solenoid — removal, repair and installation, ais. 5.6 5am oto oe we ae Gis Sein Gia ae ee em

Generalideschiptionimisc: seria chats sacrete Sie aieg roma are)canoe Head ampi— ad |UStMON te gece) sum crear sensei tears kcinks so .apei onc) otRonit

1 19

Starter motor —testinginvehicle ..............0. ev eaee Switches=gerierall ion 6 CONTACTS SHIFT

LEVER+—J

PULL-IN

|

TERMINAL pk GROUND ON ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET

1 \ CAT La |

Tin

et

CLUTCH

CRANKING

------~

MOTOR

TO

BATTERY

Fig. 10.7 Starter solenoid wiring diagram

Fig. 10.8 Starter motor cranking voltage test circuit

Chapter 10

Electrical system

185

———————————— eS

3 The starter motor fitted to the Chevrolet/Chevelle range has remained almost unchanged throughout the production run of the vehicle. However, with the introduction of a modified (HEI) ignition system for 1975 models, the ‘R’ terminal on the solenoid has been removed.

9

the solenoid and then connect the negative lead to ground.

11 Actuate the ignition switch and take the voltmeter readings as soon as a steady figure is indicated. Do not allow the starter motor to turn for more than 30 seconds at a time. A reading of 9 volts, or more, with the starter motor turning at normal cranking speed proves it to be in good condition. If the reading is 9 volts, or more, but the cranking speed is slow, then the motor is faulty. If the reading is less than 9 volts and the cranking speed is slow, the solenoid contacts are probably at fault and should be renewed as described later in this Chapter.

Starter motor — testing in vehicle

1 If the starter motor does not rotate at all when the switch is operated, check that the speed selector lever is in ‘N’ or ‘P’ (automatic transmission) and that the front seat belts are connected (starter interlock system) and also that the clutch pedal is depressed (where

applicable). 2 Check that the battery is well charged and all cables, both at the battery and starter solenoid terminals, are secure.

3 If the motor can be heard spinning but the engine is not being cranked, then the overrunning clutch in the starter motor is slipping

1 2

Disconnect the ground cable from the battery. Raise the vehicle to a satisfactory working height.

ing threads and if mixed up may damage the threads of the terminal posts when an attempt is made to screw them on. 4 Loosen the starter motor front bracket nut and then remove the two mount bolts. 5 Remove the front bracket bolt, rotate the bracket so that the

If, when the switch is actuated, the starter motor does not operate

at all but the solenoid plunger can be heard to move with a loud ‘click’ then the fault lies in the main solenoid contacts or the starter motor itself. 5 If the solenoid plunger cannot be heard to move when the switch is actuated then the solenoid itself is defective or the solenoid circuit is open. 6 To check out the solenoid, connect a jumper lead between the battery (+) terminal and the terminal on the solenoid to which the purple cable is attached. If the starter motor now operates, the solenoid is OK and the fault must lie in the ignition or neutral start switches or in their interconnecting wiring. 7 \f the starter motor still does not operate, remove the starter/solenoid assembly for dismantling, testing and repair. 8 If the starter motor cranks the engine at an abnormally slow speed, first ensure that the battery is fully charged and all terminal connections are tight, also that the engine oil is not too thick a grade and that the resistance is not due to a mechanical fault within the power unit. 9 Run the engine until normal operating temperature is attained, disconnect the coil to distributor LT wire so that the engine will not fire

starter motor can be withdrawn by lowering its front end. 6 Installation is a reversal of removal but tighten the mount bolts first to the specified torque and then tighten the front bracket bolt and nut.

11

Starter motor — dismantling and component testing

1. Disconnect the starter motor field coil connectors from the solenoid terminals. 2 Unscrew and remove the through bolts. 3 Remove the commutator end frame, field frame assembly and the armature from the drive housing. 4 Slide the two section thrust collar off the end of the armature shaft and then using a piece of suitable tube drive the stop/retainer up the armature shaft to expose the snap-ring. 5 Extract the snap-ring from its shaft groove and then slide the stop/retainer and overrunning clutch assembly from the armature

during cranking. 10

Starter motor — removal and installation

3 Disconnect all the leads from the solenoid terminals. Temporarily refit the terminal nuts to their respective terminals as they are of differ-

and the assembly must be removed from the engine and dismantled. 4

10

Connect a voltmeter positive lead to the starter motor terminal of

SOLENOID

CONTACT

RETURN SPRING

PLUNGER

an

ke

SHIFT

cae

"OE

GROMMET

aM

o

Ss

peers

Po

SPIRAL SPLINES

as:

e iF ee

|

—

BUSHING

OVERRUNNING INSULATED BRUSH GROUNDED

BRUSH

SPRING BRUSH

HOLDER

FIELD COIL ARMATURE

HOLDER

Fig. 10.9 Cutaway view of typical starter motor

ASSIST

SPRING

CLUTCH

186

Fig. 10.10 Starter motor mountings

Fig. 10.11

Exploded view of a typical starter motor

1

Drive housing

8

Screw and lockwasher

15 Clutch assembly

22

Grounded brush holders

2 3 4 §

Pivot bolt Pin Shift lever Solenoid plunger

9 Grommet 10 Field frame 11 Tie bolts 12 Thrust collar

16 17 18 19

Armature Brake washer Commutatorendframe Brush springs

23 24 25 26

Brushes Screws Field coils Insulators

6 vf

Spring

13 Snap ring

20

Washer

27 Pole shoes

Solenoid body

14 Retainer

21

Brush holders

28

Screws

Chapter 10

Electrical system

187

shaft. 6 Dismantle the brush components from the field frame. 7 Release the V-shaped springs from the brush holder supports. 8 Remove the brush holder support pin and then lift the complete brush assembly upwards. 9 Disconnect the leads from the brushes if they have worn down to half their original length and they are to be renewed. 10 The starter motor is now completely dismantled except for the field coils. If these are found to be defective during the tests described later in this Section removal of the pole shoe screws is best left to a service station having the necessary pressure driver. 11 Clean all components and renew any obviously worn components. On no account attempt to undercut the insulation between the commutator segments on starter motors having the moulded type commutators. On commutators of conventional type, the insulation should

CYLINDER RETAINER

be undercut (below the level of the segments) by % inch. Use an old hacksaw blade to do this and make sure that the undercut is the full width of the insulation and the groove is quite square at the bottom. When the undercutting is completed, brush away all dirt and dust. 12 Clean the commutator by spinning it while a piece of number ‘OO’

Fig.

10.12

Driving

starter

motor armature off snap ring

shaft

stop/retainer

sandpaper is wrapped round it. On no account use any other type of abrasive material for this work. 13 If necessary, because the commutator is in such bad shape, it may be turned down in a lathe to provide a new surface. Make sure to

undercut the insulation when the turning is completed. 14

To test the armature

for ground: Use a lamp type circuit tester.

Place one lead on the armature core or shaft and the other on a segment of the commutator. If the lamp lights then the armature is grounded and must be renewed. 15 To test the field coils for open circuit: Place one test probe on the

Pe.

RETAINER

insulated brush and the other on the field connector bar. If the lamp

does not light, the coils are open and must be renewed. 16 To test the field coils for ground: Place one test probe on the connector bar and the other on the grounded brush. If the lamp lights then: the field coils are grounded. 17 The overrunning clutch cannot be repaired and if faulty, it must be renewed as a complete assembly.

12

Fig. 10.13 Driving snap ring onto starter motor armature shaft

BATTERY

Fig. 10.14 Starter motor pinion clearance test circuit

Starter motor — reassembly and adjustment

1 Install the brush assembly to the field frame as follows: 2 Fit the brushes to their holders. 3 Assemble the insulated and grounded brush holders together with the ‘V’ spring and then locate the unit on its support pin. 4 Push the holders and spring to the bottom of the support and then rotate the spring to engage the ‘V’ in the support slot. 5 Connect the ground wire to the grounded brush and the field lead wire to the insulated brush. 6 Repeat the operations for the second set of brushes. 7 Smear silicone oil into the drive end of the armature shaft and then slide the clutch assembly (pinion to the front) onto the shaft. 8 Slide the pinion stop/retainer onto the shaft so that its open end is facing away from the pinion. 9 Stand the armature vertically on a piece of wood and then position the snap-ring on the end of the shaft. Using a hammer and a piece of hardwood, drive the snap-ring onto the shaft. 10 Slide the snap-ring down the shaft until it drops into its groove. 11 Install the thrust collar on the shaft so that the shoulder is next to the snap-ring. Using two pairs of pliers, squeeze the thrust collar and stop/retainer together until the snap-ring fully enters the retainer. 12 Lubricate the drive housing bush with silicone oil and after ensuring that the thrust collar is in position against the snap-ring, slide the armature and clutch assembly into the drive housing so that at the same time, the shift lever engages with the clutch. 13 Position the field frame over the armature and apply sealing compound between the frame and the solenoid case. 14 Position the field frame against the drive housing taking care not to damage the brushes. 15 Lubricate the bush in the commutator end-frame using silicone oil; place the leather brake washer on the armature shaft and then slide the commutator end-frame onto the shaft. 16 Reconnect the field coil connectors to the ‘Motor’ terminal of the solenoid. 17 Now check the pinion clearance. To do this, connect a 6 volt battery between the solenoid ‘S‘ terminal and ground and at the same

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