Haynes Chevrolet Camaro Owners Workshop Manual 1982-1984 All Models 0856968660, 9780856968662

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Chevrolet Camaro

~Owners Workshop Manual by John B Raffa and John

H Haynes

Models covered: Chevrolet Camaro, Berlinetta 1982 through 1984

Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers

and Z28

ISBN 0 85696 866 0

© Haynes Publishing Group 1984 All rights any form recording in writing

reserved. or by any or by any from the

No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, information storage or retrieval system, without permission copyright holder.

Printed in England

A

z

AUTOMOTIVE PARTS &

DOES

HAYNES PUBLISHING GROUP SPARKFORD YEOVIL SOMERSET distributed in the USA

by

HAYNES PUBLICATIONS 861 LAWRENCE DRIVE NEWBURY PARK CALIFORNIA 91320 USA

INC

A A

MEMBER

ENGLAND

Acknowledgments We are grateful for the help and cooperation of the Chevrolet Motor Division of the General Motors Corporation for their assistance with technical information, certain illustrations and vehicle photos, and the

About

Champion Spark Plug Company who supplied the illustrations showing the various spark plug conditions.

this manual

/ts purpose The purpose of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done, even if you choose to have it done by a dealer service department or a repair shop; it provides information and procedures for routine maintenance and servicing; and it offers diagnostic and repair procedures to follow when trouble occurs. It is hoped that you will use the manual to tackle the work yourself. For many simpler jobs, doing it yourself may be quicker than arranging an appointment to get the vehicle into a shop and making the trips to leave it and pick it up. More importantly, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the expense the shop must pass on to you to cover its labor and overhead costs. An added benefit is the sense of satisfaction and accomplishment that you feel after having done the job yourself.

Using the manual The manual is divided into Chapters. Each Chapter is divided into numbered Sections, which are headed in bold type between horizontal lines. Each Section consists of consecutively numbered paragraphs.

The two types of illustrations used (figures and photographs), are referenced by a number preceding their caption. Figure reference numbers denote Chapter and numerical sequence within the Chapter; (i.e. Fig. 3.4 means Chapter 3, figure number 4). Figure captions are followed by a Section number which ties the figure to a specific portion of the text. All photographs apply to the Chapter in which they appear and the reference number pinpoints the pertinent Section and paragraph; i.e., 3.2 means Section 3, paragraph 2. Procedures, once described in the text, are not normally repeated. When it is necessary to refer to another Chapter, the reference will be given as Chapter and Section number i.e. Chapter 1/16). Cross references given without use of the word ‘Chapter’ apply to Sections and/or paragraphs in the same Chapter. For example, ‘see Section 8’ means in the same Chapter. Reference to the left or right side of the vehicle is based on the assumption that one is sitting in the driver’s seat, facing forward. * Even though extreme care has been taken during the preparation of this manual, neither the publisher nor the author can accept responsibility for any errors in, or omissions from, the information given. *

Introduction to the Chevrolet For the years covered in this manual, the Camaro is available in three models: Sport Coupe, Berlinetta and Z-28. Engines available include the 151-cubic-inch in-line four-cylinder (standard in the Sport Coupe and designated L4 in this manual); a V6 of 173-cubic-inch displacement (standard in the Berlinetta and optional in the Sport Coupe); a standard V8 of 305-cubic-inch displacement (standard in the Z-28 and optional in the Sport Coupe and Berlinetta); and a high output (HO) version of the 305-cubic-inch V8 (optional in the Z-28 only).

Camaro

Four and five-speed manual transmissions and three and four-speed automatic transmissions are available as standard or optional equipment, depending on year, model and engine. Front suspension is independent, featuring modified McPherson struts, while the rear suspension is via torque arm with coil springs and lower control arms. Front brakes on all models are power assisted sliding caliper discs; standard rear brakes are drum-type, with discs optionally available on some models.

Contents

A

_

Acknowledgments

°

About this manual

5)

Introduction to the Chevrolet Camaro

2

General dimensions

7

Vehicle identification numbers

7

Buying parts

9

Maintenance

techniques, tools and working facilities

9

Booster battery (jump) starting

16

Jacking and towing

16

Automotive chemicals and lubricants

il

Safety first!

18

Troubleshooting

19

Tune-up and routine maintenance

26

Chapter 2

Part A L4 (four-cylinder) engine

61

Chapter 2

Part B V6 engine

74

Chapter 2

Part C V8 engine

94

Chapter 2.

Part D General engine overhaul procedures

103

Chapter 3

Cooling, heating and air-conditioning systems

125

Chapter 4

Fuel and exhaust systems

132

Chapter 5

Engine electrical systems

158

Chapter 6

Emissions

169

Chapter 7

Part A Manual transmission

185

Chapter 7

Part B Automatic

189

Chapter 8

Clutch and driveline

194

Chapter 9

Brakes

204

Chapter

1

control systems

transmission

Chapter

10 Chassis electrical system

Chapter

11 Steering and suspension

Conversion Index

factors

226 systems

265

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Vehicle identification

4.8 inches 5.1 inches

numbers

Modifications are a continuing and unpublicized process in vehicle manufacturing. Since spare parts manuals and lists are compiled on a numerical basis, the individual vehicle numbers are essential to correctly identify the component required.

Vehicle identification number (VIN) This very important identification number is located on a plate attached to the top left corner of the dashboard and can easily be seen while looking through the windshield from the outside of the vehicle (photo). The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certificate of Title and Registration. It contains valuable information such as where and when the vehicle was manufactured, the model year and the body style.

The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is located on the driver’s side of the dashboard and is visible through the windshield

Body identification plate This metal plate is located on the top left side of the radiator support (photo). Like the VIN, it contains valuable information concerning the production of the vehicle, as well as information about the way in which the vehicle is equipped. This plate is especially useful for matching the color and type of paint during repair work.

Engine identification numbers The ID number on the L4 engine is found at the left rear side of the engine, on the casting to the rear of the exhaust manifold.

The ID number on the V6 engine is found either below the left cylinder

The body identification plate is located at the top right side of the radiator support (A), and the Emissions Control Information label is located on the fan shroud (B)

8

Vehicle identification numbers Control Information

label

head or below the right cylinder head, to the rear of the timing cover.

Emissions

on the V8 engine is found just below the right cylinder ID number The to the rear of the timing cover. head,

The Emissions Control Information label is attached to the radiator fancehioud:

Automatic transmission numbers Automatic transmission ID numbers may be stamped in a variety of locations on pads on either side of the transmission (refer to the accompanying illustration).

Manual transmission numbers Manual transmission ID numbers are stamped on the driver’s side, adjacent to the rear of the cover (four-speed 83 mm and five-speed 70 mm), or on the driver’s side, below the side cover (four-speed

76 mm).

ENGINE V.I.N. NUMBER

Rear axle numbers The rear axle ID number is located on the right axle tube, adjacent to the carrier.

Alternator numbers The alternator ID number is located on top of the drive end frame.

Starter numbers The starter ID number is stamped on the outer case, toward the rear.

Battery numbers The battery ID number is located on the cell cover segment on top

Location of the engine ID number on L4 engines

of the battery.

WATER PUMP NIPPLE

ENGINE

OPTIONAL

V.I.N.

LOCATION

TYPICAL TRANSMISSION - 10 LOCATIONS

THM 200 ANO THM 20048 1D TAG LOCATION

THM 350C STAMPED 10 LOCATION

THM 200 AND THM 2004R VIN LOCATION THM 200 AND THM 2004R VIN OPTIONAL LOCATIONS

THM 350C VIN LOCATION THM 350C OPTIONAL VIN LOCATIONS

THM 250C 10 STAMP LOCATION

THM 250C VIN LOCATION

Location of the engine ID number on V8 engines

Location of the ID numbers

THM 700-R4 STAMPED 1.0 LOCATIO N

THM 700-R4 VIN LOCATION

on automatic

transmissions

Buying parts Replacement parts are available from many sources, which generally fall into one of two categories — authorized dealer parts departments and independent retail auto parts stores. Our advice concerning these parts is as follows: Authorized dealer parts department: This is the best source for parts which are unique to your vehicle and not generally available elsewhere (i.e. major engine parts, transmission parts, trim pieces, etc.). It is also the only place you should buy parts if your vehicle is still under warranty, as non-factory parts may invalidate the warranty. To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, have your vehicle’s engine and chassis numbers available and, if possible, take the old parts along for positive

identification. Retail auto parts stores: Good auto parts stores will stock frequently needed components which wear out relatively fast (i.e. clutch components, exhaust systems, brake parts, tune-up parts, etc.). These stores often supply new or reconditioned parts on an exchange basis, which can save a considerable amount of money. Discount auto parts stores are often very good places to buy materials and parts needed for general vehicle maintenance (i.e. oil, grease, filters, spark plugs, belts, touchup paint, bulbs, etc.). They also usually sell tools and general accessories, have convenient hours, charge lower prices, and can often be found not far from your home.

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Maintenance

techniques

There are a number of techniques involved in maintenance and that will be referred to throughout this manual. Application of techniques will enable the home mechanic to be more efficient, organized and capable of performing the various tasks properly, will ensure that the repair job is thorough and complete.

repair these better which

Fasteners Fasteners are nuts, bolts, studs and screws used to hold two or more parts together. There are a few things to keep in mind when working with fasteners. Almost all of them use a locking device of some type, either a lock washer, locknut, locking tab or thread adhesive. All threaded fasteners should be clean and straight, with undamaged threads and undamaged corners on the hex head where the wrench fits. Develop the habit of replacing all damaged nuts and bolts with new ones. Special

locknuts with nylon or fiber inserts can only be used once. If they are removed, they lose their locking ability and must be replaced with new

ones. Rusted nuts and bolts should be treated with a penetrating fluid to ease removal and prevent breakage. Some mechanics use turpentine in a spout-type oil can, which works quite well. After applying the rust penetrant, let it ‘“work’’ for a few minutes before trying to loosen the nut or bolt. Badly rusted fasteners may have to be chiseled or sawed off or removed with a special nut breaker, available at tool stores. If a bolt or stud breaks off in an assembly,

it can be drilled and re-

moved with a special tool commonly available for this purpose. Most automotive machine shops can perform this task, as well as other repair procedures (such as repair of threaded holes that have been stripped

out).

:

Flat washers and lock washers, when removed from an assembly, should always be replaced exactly as removed. Replace any damaged

10

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities metric and standard bolts can also be distinguished by examining the bolt heads. To begin with, the distance across the flats on a standard bolt head is measured in inches, while the same dimension on a metric bolt is measured in millimeters (the same is true for nuts). As a result, a standard wrench should not be used on a metric bolt and a metric wrench should not be used on a standard bolt. Also, standard bolts have slashes radiating out from the center of the head to denote the grade or strength of the bolt (which is an indication of the amount of torque that can be applied to it). The greater the number of slashes, the greater the strength of the bolt (grades O through 5 are commonly used on automobiles). Metric bolts have a property class (grade)

washers with new ones. Always use a flat washer between a lock washer and any soft metal surface (such as aluminum), thin sheet metal or plastic.

Fastener sizes For a number of reasons, automobile manufacturers are making wider and wider use of metric fasteners. Therefore, it is important to be able to tell the difference between standard (sometimes called U.S., English or SAE) and metric hardware, since they cannot be interchanged. All bolts, whether standard or metric, are sized according to diameter,

thread pitch and length. For example, a standard 1/2 — 13 x 1 bolt is 1/2 inch in diameter, has 13 threads per inch and is 1 inch long. An M12 —

1.75 x 25 metric bolt is 12 mm

number, rather than a slash, molded into their heads to indicate bolt strength. In this case, the higher the number, the stronger the bolt (property class numbers 8.8, 9.8 and 10.9 are commonly used on automobiles). Strength markings can also be used to distinguish standard hex nuts from metric hex nuts. Standard nuts have dots stamped into one side,

in diameter, has a thread pitch

of 1.75 mm (the distance between threads) and is 25 mm long. The two bolts are nearly identical, and easily confused, but they are not interchangeable. In addition to the differences in diameter, thread pitch and length,

Grade

1 or 2

Bolt strength markings (top —

Grade

Identification

bottom

—

metric)

Identification

Hex Nut

Property

Hex Nut

Grade

Grade

standard/SAE;

Class 9

5

Arabic 9

3 Dots

Hex Nut

Hex Nut Grade 8

Property Class 10

6 Dots Standard hex nut strength markings

CLASS 10.9 Arabic

10

Metric hex nut strength markings

Metric stud strength markings

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities while metric nuts are marked with a number. The greater the number of dots, or the higher the number, the greater the strength of the nut. Metric studs are also marked on their ends according to property class (grade). Larger studs are numbered (the same as metric bolts), while smaller studs carry a geometric code to denote grade. It should be noted that many fasteners, especially Grades O through 2, have no distinguishing marks on them. When such is the case, the only way to determine whether it is standard or metric is to measure the thread pitch or compare it to a known fastener of the same size. Since fasteners of the same size (both standard and metric) may have different strength ratings, be sure-to reinstall any bolts, studs or nuts removed from your vehicle in their original locations. Also, when replacing a fastener with a new one, make sure that the new one has a strength rating equal to or greater than the original.

Metric

= 175 Co

aC CRONE

en

Ee

NAO OR ITE RR tas a ES we HAG SS BIS A OE Bua: STE I AS 5G 624. eee BE SEAR Ae OES SRE. 3 / Stl Cars 2. aoe, cach PR ee ero eee 3/8 = QAt,. RRL STE RARE RCE. TAA AE. os TINGE SRI4A Oh eesee OG TED SRC I. LEMAR ZAC Se 2 OG AA AO oy Ie ORE Vo ly oer ie peeoarRocmectcrs tat ob Gaeta ic

(SAE) bolt dimensions/grade

torque values (many of which are noted in the Specifications at the beginning of each Chapter).

Be sure to follow the torque recommen-

dations closely. For fasteners not assigned a specific torque, a general torque value chart is presented here as a guide. As was previously mentioned, the size and grade of a fastener determine the amount of torque that can safely be applied to it. The figures listed here are ap-

proximate for Grade 2 and Grade 3 fasteners (higher grades can tolerate higher torque values).

Ae on Ae = a

Ft-Ib 6 to 9 14 to 21 28 to 40 50 to 71 80 to 140

Nm 9 to 12 19 to 28 38 to 54 68 to 96 109 to 154

a:

5 to 8

7 to 10

#4 a

12 to 18 DIOS

17 to 24 30 to 44

me

25 to 35

34 to 47

#: ue Ae ig — 56 we Sei

6 to 9 12 to 18 14 to 20 PPM Ro) SY ZitOnes 40 to 55 40 to 60 55 to 80

9 to 12 17 to 24 19 to 27 30 to 43 C7 tonol 55 to 74 55 to 81 75 to 108

Metric bolt dimensions/grade

marks

G_ Grade marks (bolt strength) L_ Length (in inches) T Thread pitch (number of threads per inch) D Nominal diameter (in inches)

and procedures

Most threaded fasteners should be tightened to a specific torque value (torque is basically a twisting force). Over-tightening the fastener can weaken it and cause it to break, while under-tightening can cause it to eventually come loose. Bolts, screws and studs, depending on the material they are made of and their thread diameters, have specific

thread sizes

YRS hgh PES

Standard

Tightening sequences

11

P

marks

Property class (bolt strength)

L Length (in millimeters) T Thread pitch (distance between D_ Diameter

threads in millimeters)

2 Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities a Fasteners laid out in a pattern (i.e. cylinder head bolts, oil pan bolts, differential cover bolts, etc.) must be loosened or tightened in a sequence to avoid warping the component. This sequence will normally be shown in the appropriate Chapter. If a specific pattern is not given, the following procedures can be used to prevent warping. Initially, the bolts or nuts should be assembled finger-tight only. Next, they should be tightened one full turn each, in a crisscross or diagonal pattern. After each one has been tightened one full turn, return to the first one and tighten them all one-half turn, following the same pattern. Finally,

tighten each of them one-quarter turn at a time until each fastener has been tightened to the proper torque. To loosen and remove the fasteners,

the procedure would be reversed.

Component disassembly Component disassembly should be done with care and purpose to help ensure that the parts go back together properly. Always keep track of the sequence in which parts are removed. Make note of special characteristics or marks on parts that can be installed more than one way (such as a grooved thrust washer on a shaft). It is a good idea to lay the disassembled parts out on a clean surface in the order that they were removed. It may also be helpful to make sketches or take instant photos of components before removal. When removing fasteners from a component, keep track of their locations. Sometimes threading a bolt back in a part, or putting the washers and nut back on a stud, can prevent mix-ups later. If nuts and bolts cannot be returned to their original locations, they should be kept in a compartmented box or a series of small boxes. A cupcake or muffin tin is ideal for this purpose, since each cavity can hold the bolts and nuts from a particular area (i.e. oil pan bolts, valve cover bolts, engine mount bolts, etc.). A pan of this type is especially helpful when working on assemblies with very small parts, such as the carburetor, alternator, valve train or interior dash and trim pieces. The cavities can be marked with paint or tape to identify the contents. Whenever wiring looms, harnesses or connectors are separated, it’s

a good idea to identify the two halves with numbered pieces of masking tape so they can be easily reconnected.

Gasket sealing surfaces Throughout any vehicle, gaskets are used to seal the mating surfaces between two parts and keep lubricants, fluids, vacuum or pressure contained in an assembly. Many times these gaskets are coated with a liquid or paste-type gasket sealing compound before assembly. Age, heat and pressure can sometimes cause the two parts to stick together so tightly that they are very difficult to separate. Often, the assembly can be loosened by striking it with a soft-faced hammer near the mating surfaces. A regular hammer can be used if a block of wood is placed between the hammer and the part. Do not hammer on cast parts or parts that could be easily damaged. With any particularly stubborn part, always recheck to make sure that every fastener has been removed.

Avoid using a screwdriver or bar to pry apart an assembly, as they can easily mar the gasket sealing surfaces of the parts (which must remain smooth). If prying is absolutely necessary, use an old broom handle, but keep in mind that extra clean-up will be necessary if the wood splinters. After the parts are separated, the old gasket must be carefully scraped off and the gasket surfaces cleaned. Stubborn gasket material can be soaked with rust penetrant or treated with a special chemical to soften it so it can be easily scraped off. A scraper can be fashioned from a piece of copper tubing by flattening and sharpening one end. Copper is recommended because it is usually softer than the surfaces to be scraped, which reduces the chance of gouging the part. Some gaskets can be removed with a wire brush, but regardless of the method used, the mating surfaces must be left clean and smooth. If for some reason the gasket surface is gouged, then a gasket sealer thick enough to fill scratches will have to be used during reassembly of the components. For most applications, a non-drying (or semi-drying) gasket sealer should be used.

Hose removal tips Caution: /f the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, do not discon-

nect any of the A/C hoses without first having the system depressurized by a dealer service department or an air conditioning specialist. Hose removal precautions closely parallel gasket removal precautions. Avoid scratching or gouging the surface that the hose mates against or the connection may leak. This is especially true for radiator hoses. Because of various chemical reactions, the rubber in hoses can bond itself to the metal spigot that the hose fits over. To remove a hose, first loosen the hose clamps that secure it to the spigot. Then, with slip-joint pliers, grab the hose at the clamp and rotate it around the spigot. Work it back and forth until it is completely free, then pull it off. Silicone or other lubricants will ease removal if they can be applied between the hose and the outside of the spigot. Apply the same lubricant to the inside of the hose and the outside of the spigot to simplify installation. As a last resort (and if the hose is to be replaced with a new one anyway), the rubber can be slit with a knife and the hose peeled from the spigot. If this must be done, be careful that the metal connection is not damaged. If a hose clamp is broken or damaged, do not reuse it. Wire-type clamps usually weaken with age, so it is a good idea to replace them with screw-type clamps whenever a hose is removed.

Tools A selection of good tools is a basic requirement for anyone who plans to maintain and repair his or her own vehicle. For the owner who has few tools, if any, the initial investment might seem high, but when compared to the spiraling costs of professional auto maintenance and repair, it is a wise one.

“aie

Micrometer

set

Dial indicator set

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Dial caliper

Hand-operated vacuum

Hydraulic lifter removal tool

pump

13

Universal-type puller

Piston ring groove cleaning tool

Piston ring compressor

Piston ring removal/installation tool

Cylinder ridge reamer

Cylinder surfacing hone

Cylinder bore gauge

Brake shoe spring tool

f

Valve spring compressor

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities 14 a To help the owner decide which tools are needed to perform the tasks

detailed in this manual, the following tool lists are offered: Maintenance and minor repair, Repair and overhaul and Special. The newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit, which is adequate for the simpler jobs performed on a vehicle. Then, as confidence and experience grow, the owner can tackle more difficult tasks, buying additional tools as they are needed. Eventually the basic kit will be expanded into the Repair and overhaul too/ set. Over a period of time, the experienced do-it-yourselfer will assemble a tool set complete enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the Specia/ category when it is felt that the expense is justified by the frequency of use.

Cold chisel — 1/2 in Scriber Scraper (made from flattened copper tubing) Center punch Pin punches (1/16, 1/8, 3/16 in) Steel rule/straightedge — 12 in Allen wrench set (1/8 to 3/8 in or 4mm to 10 mm) A selection of files Wire brush (large) Jackstands (second set) Jack (scissor or hydraulic type) Note: Another tool which is often useful is an electric drill motor (with

Maintenance

a chuck capacity of 3/8-inch) and a set of good-quality drill bits.

and minor repair tool kit

The tools in this list should be considered the minimum required for performance of routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair work. We recommend the purchase of combination wrenches (box-end and open-end combined in one wrench); while more expensive than openended ones, they offer the advantages of both types of wrench.

Combination wrench set (1/4 in to 1 in or Adjustable wrench — 8 in Spark plug wrench (with rubber insert) Spark plug gap adjusting tool Feeler gauge set Brake bleeder wrench Standard screwdriver (5/16 in x 6 in) Phillips screwdriver (No. 2 x 6 in)

Combination pliers —

6 mm

to 19 mm)

6 in

Hacksaw and assortment of blades Tire pressure gauge Grease gun Oil can Fine emery cloth Wire brush Battery post and cable cleaning tool Oil filter wrench Funnel (medium size) Safety goggles Jackstands (2) Drain pan

Note: /f basic tune-ups are going to be part of routine maintenance, it will be necessary to purchase a good quality stroboscopic timing light and combination tachometer/dwell meter. Although they are included in the list of Special tools, it is mentioned here because they are absolutely necessary for tuning most vehicles properly.

Repair and overhaul tool set These tools are essential for anyone who plans to perform major repairs and are in addition to those in the Maintenance and minor repair too/ kit. Included is a comprehensive set of sockets which, though expensive, are invaluable because of their versatility (especially when various extensions and drives are available). We recommend the 1/2-inch drive over the 3/8-inch drive. Although the larger drive is bulky and more expensive, it has the capacity of accepting a very wide range of large sockets (ideally, the mechanic would have a 3/8-inch drive set and a 1/2-inch drive set). Socket set(s) Reversible ratchet Extension — 10 in Universal joint Torque wrench (same size drive as sockets) Ball peen hammer — 8 oz

Soft-faced hammer (plastic/rubber) Standard screwdriver (1/4 in x 6 in) Standard screwdriver (stubby — 5/16 in) Phillips screwdriver (No. 3 x 8 in) Phillips screwdriver (stubby — No. 2)

Pliers —

vise grip

Pliers — lineman’s Pliers — needle nose Pliers — snap-ring (internal and external)

Special tools The tools in this list include those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturer's instructions. Unless these tools will be used frequently, it is not very economical to purchase many of them. A consideration would be to split the cost and use between yourself and a friend or friends. In addition, most of these tools can be obtained from a tool rental shop on a temporary basis. This list primarily contains only those tools and instruments widely available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer for distribution to dealer service departments. Occasionally, references to the manufacturer’s special tools are included in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the special tool is offered. However, sometimes there is _ no alternative to their use. Where this is the case, and the tool cannot be purchased or borrowed, the work should be turned over to the dealer service department or an automotive repair shop.

Valve spring compressor Piston ring groove cleaning tool Piston ring compressor Piston ring installation tool Cylinder compression gauge Cylinder ridge reamer Cylinder surfacing hone Cylinder bore gauge Micrometer(s) and/or dial calipers Hydraulic lifter removal tool Balljoint separator Universal-type puller Impact screwdriver Dial indicator set Stroboscopic timing light (inductive pick-up) Hand-operated vacuum/pressure pump Tachometer/dwell meter Universal electrical multimeter Cable hoist Brake spring removal and installation tools Floor jack

Buying tools For the do-it-yourselfer who is just starting to get involved in vehicle maintenance and repair, there are a number of options available when. purchasing tools. If maintenance and minor repair is the extent of thes work to be done, the purchase of individual tools is satisfactory. If, on: the other hand, extensive work is planned, it would be a good idea to purchase a modest tool set from one of the large retail chain stores. A set can usually be bought at a substantial savings over the individual tool prices (and they often come with a tool box). As additional tools are needed, add-on sets, individual tools and a larger tool box can be purchased to expand the tool selection. Building a tool set gradually allows the cost of the tools to be spread over a longer period of time and gives the mechanic the freedom to choose only those tools that will actually be used. Tool stores will often be the only source of some of the special tools that are needed, but regardless of where tools are bought, try to avoid cheap ones (especially when buying screwdrivers and sockets) because they won't last very long. The expense involved in replacing cheap tools

will eventually be greater than the initial cost of quality tools.

Maintenance Care and maintenance Good

tools

are expensive,

techniques, tools and working facilities

of tools so it makes

sense

to treat them

with

respect. Keep them clean and in usable condition and store them properly when not in use. Always wipe off any dirt, grease or metal chips before putting them away. Never leave tools lying around in the work area. Upon completion of a job, always check closely under the

hood for tools that may have been left there (so they don’t get lost during a test drive). Some tools, such as screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches and sockets, can be hung on a panel mounted on the garage or workshop wall, while others should be kept in a tool box or tray. Measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc. must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged by weather or impact from other tools. When tools are used with care and stored properly, they will last a very long time. Even with the best of care, tools will wear out if used frequently. When a tool is damaged or worn out, replace it; subsequent jobs will be safer and more enjoyable if you do.

Working facilities Not to be overlooked when discussing tools is the workshop. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some sort of suitable work area is essential. It is understood, and appreciated, that many home mechanics do not have a good workshop or garage available and end up removing

15

an engine or doing major repairs outside. It is recommended, however, that the overhaul or repair be completed under the cover of a roof. A clean, flat workbench or table of comfortable working height is an absolute necessity. The workbench should be equipped with a vise that has a jaw opening of at least four inches. As mentioned previously, some clean, dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as the lubricants, fluids, cleaning solvents, etc. which soon become necessary. Sometimes waste oil and fluids, drained from the engine or cooling system during normal maintenance or repairs, present a disposal prob-

lem. To avoid pouring them on the ground or into a sewage system, simply pour the used fluids into large containers, seal them with caps and take them to an authorized disposal site or recycling center. Plastic jugs (such as old antifreeze containers) are ideal for this purpose. Always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean rags available. Old towels are excellent for mopping up spills. Many mechanics use rolls of paper towels for most work because they are readily available and disposable. To help keep the area under the vehicle clean, a large cardboard box can be cut open and flattened to protect the garage or shop floor. Whenever working over a painted surface (such as when leaning over a fender to service something under the hood), always cover it with an old blanket or bedspread to protect the finish. Vinyl covered pads, made especially for this purpose, are available at auto parts stores.

Booster battery (jump) starting Certain precautions must be observed when using a booster battery to ‘jump start’ a vehicle.

a)

Before connecting the booster battery, make sure that the ignition switch is in the Off position.

b) c) d)

Turn off the lights, heater and other electrical loads. The eyes should be shielded; safety goggles are a good idea. Make sure the booster battery is the same voltage as the dead one in the vehicle. e) The two vehicles must not touch each other. f) Make sure the transmission is in Neutral (manual transmission) or Park (automatic transmission).

Connect the red jumper cable to the positive (+) terminals of each battery. Connect one end of the black jumper cable to the negative (—) terminal of the booster battery. The other end of this cable should be connected to a good ground on the vehicle to be started, such as a bolt or bracket on the engine block. Start the engine using the booster battery, then, with the engine running at idle speed, disconnect the jumper cables in the reverse order of connection.

Booster battery cable connections (note that the negative cable is not attached to the negative terminal of the dead battery)

Jacking and towing Jacking The jack supplied with the vehicle should only be used for raising the vehicle when changing a tire or placing jackstands under the frame. Caution: Never work under the vehicle or start the engine while this Jack is being used as the only means of support. The vehicle should be on level ground with the wheels blocked and the transmission in Park (automatic) or Reverse (manual). Pry off the hub cap (if equipped) using the tapered end of the lug wrench. Loosen the wheel nuts one-half turn and leave them in place until the wheel

is raised off the ground. Place the jack under the side of the vehicle in the indicated position and place the jack lever in the ‘up’ position. Raise the jack until the jack head groove fits into the rocker flange notch. Operate the jack with a slow, smooth motion, using your hand or foot to pump the handle until the wheel is raised off the ground. Remove the wheel nuts, pull off the wheel and replace it with the spare. (If you have a stowaway spare, refer to the instructions accompanying the supplied inflator.) With the beveled side in, replace the wheel nuts and tighten them until snug. Place the jack lever in the ‘down’ position and lower the

vehicle. Remove the jack and tighten the nuts in a crisscross sequence by turning the wrench clockwise. Replace the hub cap (if equipped) by placing it into position and using the heel of your hand or a rubber mallet to seat it.

Towing The vehicle can be towed with all four wheels on the ground, pro-

vided that 50 miles, Towing used and

speeds do not exceed 35 mph and the distance is not over otherwise transmission damage can result. equipment specifically designed for this purpose should be should be attached to the main structural members of the vehicle and not the bumper or brackets. Safety is a major consideration when towing and all applicable state and local laws must be obeyed. A safety chain system must be used for all towing. While towing, the parking brake should be released and the transmis-

sion should be in Neutral. The steering must be unlocked (ignition switch in the Off position). Remember that power steering and power brakes

will not work with the engine off.

ROCKER FLANGE NOTCH

2.75 IN. (70.0 mm)

6.25 IN. (160.0 mm)

Location of rocker panel flange notches used for jack placement (left side shown, right side similar)

JACK HEAD GROOVE

Placement and operation of jack for tire changing (left) and details of matching jack head groove-to-rocker panel flange notch (right)

Automotive

chemicals

A number of 2utomotive chemicals and lubricants are available for use during vehicle maintenance and repair. They include a wide variety of products ranging from cleaning solvents and degreasers to lubricants and protective sprays for rubber, plastic and vinyl. Contact point/spark plug cleaner is a solvent used to clean oily film and dirt from points, grime from electrical connectors and oil deposits from spark plugs. It is oil free and leaves no residue. It can also be used to remove gum and varnish from carburetor jets and other orifices. Carburetor cleaner is similar to contact point/spark plug cleaner but it is a stronger solvent and may leave a slight oily residue. It is not recommended for cleaning electrical components or connections. Brake system cleaner is used to remove grease or brake fluid from brake system components where clean surfaces are absolutely necessary and petroleum-based solvents cannot be used. It also leaves no residue. Silicone-based /ubricants are used to protect rubber parts such as hoses, weatherstripping and grommets, and are used as lubricants for

hinges and locks. Multi-purpose grease is an all-purpose lubricant used wherever grease is more practical than a liquid lubricant such as oil. Some multi-purpose grease is white and specially formulated to be more resistant to water than ordinary grease.

Bearing grease/wheel bearing grease is a heavy grease used where increased loads and friction are encountered (i.e. wheel bearings, universal joints, etc.). High-temperature wheel bearing grease is designed to withstand the extreme temperatures encountered by wheel bearings in disc-brake equipped vehicles. It usually contains molybdenum disulfide, which is a ‘dry’ type lubricant. Gear oil (sometimes called gear lube) is a specially designed oil used in differentials, manual transmissions and transfer cases, as well

as other areas where high-friction, high-temperature lubrication is required. It is available in a number of viscosities (weights) for various applications. Motor oil, of course, is the lubricant specially formulated for use in engines. It normally contains a wide variety of additives to prevent corrosion and reduce foaming and wear. Motor oil comes in various weights (viscosity ratings) of from 5 to 80. The recommended weight of the oil depends on the seasonal temperature and the demands on the engine. Light oil is used in cold climates and under light load conditions; heavy oil is used in hot climates and where high loads are encountered. Multi-viscosity oils are designed to have characteristics of both light and heavy oils and are available in a number of weights from 5W-20 to 20W-50. Oil additives range from viscosity index improvers to slick chemical treatments that purportedly reduce friction. It should be noted that most _oil manufacturers caution against using additives with their oils. Gas additives perform several functions, depending on their chemical

and lubricants makeup. They usually contain solvents that help dissolve gum and varnish that build up on carburetor and intake parts. They also serve to break down carbon deposits that form on the inside surfaces of the combustion chambers. Some additives contain upper cylinder lubricants

for valves and piston rings. Brake fluid is a specially formulated hydraulic fluid that can withstand the heat and pressure encountered in brake systems. Care must be taken that this fluid does not come in contact with painted surfaces or plastics. An opened container should always be resealed to prevent contamination by water or dirt. Undercoating is a petroleum-based, tar-like substance that is designed to protect metal surfaces on the underside of a vehicle from corrosion. It also acts as a sound-deadening agent by insulating the bottom of the vehicle. Weatherstrip cement is used to bond weatherstripping around doors, windows and trunk lids. It is sometimes used to attach trim pieces as well. Degreasers are heavy-duty solvents used to remove grease ana grime that may accumulate on engine and chassis components. They can be sprayed or brushed on and, depending on the type, are rinsed off with either water or solvent. So/vents are used alone or in combination with degreasers to clean parts and assemblies during repair and overhaul. The home mechanic should use only solvents that are non-flammable and that do not produce irritating fumes. Gasket sealing compounds may be used in conjunction with gaskets, to improve their sealing capabilities, or alone, to seal metal-to-metal joints. Many gasket sealers can withstand extreme heat, some are impervious to gasoline and lubricants, while others are capable of filling and sealing large cavities. Depending on the intended use, gasket sealers either dry hard or stay relatively soft and pliable. They are usually applied by hand, with a brush, or are sprayed on the gasket sealing surfaces. Thread cement is an adhesive locking compound that prevents threaded fasteners from loosening because of vibration. It is available in a variety of types for different applications. Moisture dispersants are usually sprays that can be used to dry out

electrical components such as the distributor, fuse block and wiring connectors. Some types can also be used as treatment for rubber and as a lubricant for hinges, cables and locks. Waxes and polishes are used to help protect painted and plated surfaces from the weather. Different types of paint may require the use of different types of wax polish. Some polishes utilize a chemical or abrasive cleaner to help remove the top layer of oxidized (dull) paint on older vehicles. In recent years many non-wax polishes that contain a wide variety of chemicals such as polymers and silicones have been introduced. These non-wax polishes are usually easier to apply and last longer than conventional waxes and polishes.

Safety first! Regardless of how enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job at hand, take the time to ensure that your safety is not jeopardized. A moment's lack of attention can result in an accident; so can failure to observe certain simple safety precautions. The possibility of an accident will always exist, and the following points should not be considered a comprehensive list of all dangers; rather, they are intended to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safety-conscious approach to all work you carry out on your vehicle.

Essential DOs and DON’Ts DON'T rely on a jack when working under the vehicle. Always use approved jackstands to support the weight of the vehicle and place them under the recommended lift or support points. DON’T attempt to loosen extremely tight fasteners (i.e. wheel lug nuts) while the vehicle is on a jack; it may fall. DON’T start the engine without first making sure that the transmission is in Neutral (or Park where applicable) and the parking brake is set. DON’T remove the radiator cap from a hot cooling system — let it cool or cover it with a cloth and release the pressure gradually. DON’T attempt to drain the engine oil until you are sure it has cooled to the point that it will not burn you. DON’T touch any part of the engine or exhaust system until it has cooled down sufficiently to avoid burns. DON'T siphon toxic liquids such as gasoline, antifreeze and brake fluid by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin. DON'T inhale brake lining dust — it is potentially hazardous. DON'T allow spilled oil or grease to remain on the floor — wipe it up before someone slips on it. DON'T use loose-fitting wrenches or other tools which may slip and Cause injury. DON’T push on wrenches when loosening or tightening nuts or bolts. Always try to pull the wrench toward you. If the situation calls for pushing the wrench away, push with an open hand to avoid scraped knuckles if the wrench should slip. DON’T attempt to lift a heavy component alone — get someone to help you. DON’T rush or take unsafe shortcuts to finish a job. DON'T allow children or animals in or around the vehicle while you are working on it. DO wear eye protection when using power tools such as a drill, sander, bench grinder, etc. and when working under a vehicle. DO keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving

parts. DO make sure that any hoist used has a safe working load rating adequate for the job. DO get someone to check on you periodically when working alone on a vehicle. DO carry out work in a logical sequence and make sure that everything is correctly assembled and tightened.

cuit, by two metal surfaces contacting

each other, or even

by static

electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite gasoline vapors, which in a confined space are highly explosive. Do not, under any circumstances, use gasoline for cleaning parts; use an approved safety solvent. Always disconnect the battery ground (—) cable before working on any part of the fuel system or electrical system. Never risk spilling fuel on a hot engine or exhaust component. It is strongly recommended that a fire extinguisher suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires be kept handy in the garage or workshop at all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with water.

Fumes Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconsciousness and even death if inhaled to any extent. Gasoline vapor falls into this category, as do the vapors from some cleaning solvents. Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated area. When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions on the container carefully. Never use materials from unmarked containers. Never run the engine in an enclosed space such as a garage; exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide which is extremely poisonous. If you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the work area. If you are fortunate enough to have the use of an inspection pit, never drain or pour gasoline and never run the engine while the vehicle is over the pit; the fumes, being heavier than air, will concentrate in the pit with possibly lethal results.

The battery Never create a spark or allow a bare light bulb near the vehicle’s battery. It will normally be giving off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive. Always disconnect the battery ground (—) cable before working on the fuel or electrical systems. If possible, loosen the filler caps or cover when charging the battery from an external source. Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery may burst. Take care when adding water and when carrying a battery. The electrolyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be allowed to contact clothing or skin. Always wear eye protection when cleaning the battery to prevent the caustic deposits from entering your eyes. *

Household current When using an electric power tool, inspection light, etc., which operates on household current, always make sure that the tool is correctly connected to its plug and that, where necessary, it is properly

DO keep chemicals and fluids tightly capped and out of the reach of children and pets.

grounded. Do not use such items in damp.conditions and, again, do not create a spark or apply excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel vapor.

DO remember that your vehicle’s safety affects that of yourself and others. If in doubt on any point, get professional advice.

Secondary ignition system

Fire Remember at all times that gasoline is highly flammable. Never smoke or have any kind of open flame around when working on a vehicle. But the risk does not end there. A spark caused by an electrical short cir-

voltage

A severe electric shock can result from touching certain parts of the ignition system (such as the spark plug wires) when the engine is running or being cranked, particularly if components are damp or the in-

sulation is defective. In the case of an electronic ignition system, the secondary system voltage is much higher and could prove fatal.

Troubleshooting Contents

Symptom

Section

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Chapter 6

Emissions control systems a aT

1

General

information

To prevent pollution of the atmosphere from burned and evaporating gases, anumber of emissions control systems are incorporated on the vehicles covered by this manual. The combination of systems used depends on the year in which the vehicle was manufactured, the locality to which it was originally delivered and the engine type. The major systems incorporated on the vehicles with which this manual is concerned include the:

Fuel Control System Electronic Spark Timing (EST) Air Injection Reaction (A/R) Early Fuel Evaporation (EFE) Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Evaporative Emissions Control (EECS) Transmission Converter Clutch (TCC) Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Thermostatic Air Cleaner (THERMAC)

service department. This does not necessarily mean, however, that the emissions control systems are particularly difficult to maintain and repair. You can quickly and easily perform many checks and do most (if not all) of the regular maintenance at home with common tune-up and hand tools. Note: 7he most frequent cause of emissions system problems is simply a loose or broken vacuum hose or wiring connection. Therefore, always check the hose and wiring connections first. Pay close attention to any special precautions outlined in this Chapter. It should be noted that the illustrations of the various systems may

not exactly match the system installed on your particular vehicle, due to changes made by the manufacturer during production or from year to year.

All of these systems are linked, directly or indirectly, to the Computer Command Control System (CCCS). The Sections in this Chapter include general descriptions, checking procedures (where possible) and component replacement procedures (where applicable) for each of the systems listed above. Before assuming that an emissions control system is malfunctioning, check the fuel and ignitions systems carefully. In some cases, special tools and equipment, as well as specialized training, are required to accurately diagnose the causes of a rough running or difficult-tostart engine. If checking and servicing become too difficult or if a procedure is beyond the scope of the home mechanic, consult your dealer

A Vehicle Emissions Control Information label is located in the engine compartment of all vehicles with which this manual is concerned. This label contains important emissions specifications and setting procedures, as well as a vacuum hose schematic with emissions components identified. When servicing the engine or emissions systems, the VECI label in your particular vehicle should always be checked for up-to-date information. Unless otherwise noted, procedures in this Chapter referring to carbureted models also apply to fuel injected (TBI) models.

2

Computer Command

Control System (CCCS)

General description This electronically controlled emissions system is linked with as many as nine other related emissions systems. It consists mainly of sensors (as many as 15) and an Electronic Control Module (ECM). Completing the system are various engine components which respond to commands.

Fig. 6.5 The engine coolant temperature sensor (right), shown with its ECM harness connector is located in the cylinder head or intake manifold (Sec 2)

Fig. 6.6 Details of the differential pressure (vacuum) sensor used with V6 and V8 engines, attached to the firewall (Sec 2) BARO SENSOR

Details of a typical firewall-mounted installation (Sec 2)

Baro sensor

Fig. 6.8

Position of the Baro sensor relative to the ECM

(Sec 2)

.

Chapter 6 ee,

Emissions control systems ETT.

from the ECM.

In many system in formation data and,

If no other codes have been stored, Code 12 will continue to repeat

ways, this system can be compared to the central nervous the human body. The sensors (nerves) constantly gather inand send this data to the ECM (brain) which processes the if necessary, sends out a command for some type of vehicle

(body) change. Here's a specific example of how one portion of this system operates. An oxygen sensor, mounted in the exhaust manifold and protruding into the exhaust gas stream, constantly monitors the oxygen content of the exhaust gas as it travels through the exhaust pipe. If the percentage of oxygen in the exhaust gas is incorrect, an electrical signal is sent to the ECM. The ECM takes this information, processes it and then sends an electrical command to the carburetor Mixture Control (M/C) solenoid telling it to change the fuel/air mixture. To be effective, all this happens in a fraction of a second, and it goes on continuously while the engine is running. The end result is a fuel/air ratio which is constantly kept at a predetermined ‘exact’ proportion, regardless of driving conditions.

Testing One might think that a system which uses exotic electrical sensors and is controlled by an on-board computer would be difficult to diagnose. This is not necessarily the case. The Computer Command Control System has a built-in diagnostic system which indicates a problem by flashing a ‘Check Engine’ light on the instrument panel. When this light comes on during normal vehicle operation, a fault has been detected. Perhaps more importantly, the exact cause of this fault is determined and automatically stored in the ECM memory. Thus, troubleshooting this system is easily accomplished by you or a dealer mechanic. To extract this information from the ECM memory, you must use a short jumper wire to ground a ‘Test’ terminal. This terminal is part of a wiring connector located just behind the dashboard, next to the steering column. A small, rectangular plate is used to cover the connector and must be pried out of place to provide access to the terminals. With the connector exposed to view, push one end of the jumper wire into the ‘Test’ terminal and the other end into the ‘Ground’ ter-

minal. Note: Do not start the engine with the ‘Test’ terminal grounded. Turn the ignition to the On position — not the Start or Run positions. The ‘Check Engine’ light should flash Trouble Code 12, indicating that the diagnostic system is working. Code 12 will consist of one flash, followed by a short pause, and then two flashes in quick succession. After a longer pause, the code will repeat itself two more times.

12

Trouble Code (1 flash, pause, 2 flashes)

itself until the jumper wire is disconnected. If additional Trouble Codes have been stored, they will follow Code 12. Again, each Trouble Code will flash three times before moving on. The ECM can also be checked for stored codes with the engine running. Completely remove the jumper wire from the ‘Test’ and ‘Ground’ terminals, start the engine and then plug the jumper wire back in. With the engine running, all stored Trouble Codes will flash. However, Code 12 will flash only if there is a fault in the distributor reference circuit. Once the code(s) have been noted, use the Trouble Code Identification information which follows to locate the source of the fault. Note: Whenever the positive battery cable is disconnected, all stored Trouble Codes in the EMC are erased. Be aware of this before you disconnect the battery for servicing or replacement of electrical components, engine removal, etc. It should be noted that the self-diagnosis feature built into this system does not detect all possible faults. If you suspect a problem with the Computer Command Control System, but a ‘Check Engine’ light has not come on, have your local dealer perform a ‘system performance

check.’ , Furthermore, when diagnosing an engine performance, fuel economy or exhaust emissions problem (which is not accompanied by a ‘Check

Engine’ light) do not automatically assume the fault lies in this system. Perform all standard troubleshooting procedures, as indicated elsewhere in this manual before turning to the Computer Command Control System. Finally, since this is an electronic system, you should have a basic knowledge of automotive electrics before attempting any diagnosis. Damage to the ECM, PROM or related components can easily occur is care is not exercised.

Trouble Code Identification Following is a list of the Trouble Codes which may be encountered while diagnosing the Computer Command Control System. Also included are simplified troubleshooting procedures. If the problem persists after these checks have been made, the vehicle must be diagnosed by a professional mechanic who can use specialized diagnostic tools and advanced troubleshooting methods to check the system. Procedures marked with an asterisk (*) indicate component replacements which may not cure the problem in all cases. For this reason, you may want to seek professional advice before purchasing replacement parts. To clear the Trouble Code(s) from the ECM memory, unplug the ECM electrical pigtail at the positive (+) battery cable.

Circuit or system No reference pulses to ECM

Probable cause This code should flash whenever the ‘Test’ terminal is grounded with the ignition On and the engine not running; if additional Trouble Codes are stored (in-

dicating a problem), they will appear after this code has flashed three times

With the engine running, the appearance of this code indicates that no references from the

distributor are reaching the ECM Carefully check the four-terminal EST connector at the distributor 13

(1 flash, pause,

3 flashes)

Oxygen sensor circuit

Check for a sticking or misadjusted throttle position sensor Check the wiring and connectors from the oxygen sensor

Replace oxygen sensor (see Chapter 1) 14

by

(1 flash, pause, 4 flashes)

Coolant

sensor

circuit

Note: /f the engine is experiencing overheating problems (as indicated by high temperature gauge readings or the ‘hot’ light coming on), rectify by referring to Chapters 1 and 3 before

continuing.

174

Chapter 6

ea

ge

ea

a

(1 flash, pause,

4 flashes)

De

ee

Probable cause

Circuit or system

Trouble Code

14

Emissions control systems

Check all wiring and connectors from the coolant sensor

Coolant sensor circuit

*Replace coolant sensor (located at front of left-hand cylinder head — V6 and V8; front of

engine block — four-cylinder) 15

(1 flash, pause,

2]

(two flashes,

22

23

5 flashes)

Coolant sensor

See above, plus: Check the wiring connections at the ECM

circuit

TPS circuit

Check for sticking or misadjusted TPS plunger Check all wiring and connections at the TPS and at the ECM *Adjust or replace TPS (see Chapter 4)

(two flashes, pause, two flashes)

TPS circuit

Check TPS adjustment (Chapter 4) Check ECM connector *Replace TPS (Chapter 4)

(two flashes, pause, three flashes)

M/C solenoid circuit

Check the electrical connections at the M/C solenoid (see Chapter 4). If OK, clear the ECM memory and recheck for code(s) after driving the vehicle Check wiring connections at the

pause, one flash)

ECM Check wiring from M/C solenoid (Chapter 4)

24

(two flashes, pause, four

Vehicle speed sensor

flashes)

(VSS) circuit

Note: A fault in this indicated only while motion. Disregard when drive wheels Check connections

circuit should be the vehicle is in code 24 if set are not turning. at the ECM

Check the TPS setting (Chapter 4)

32

(three flashes, pause, two flashes)

Baro sensor

circuit

Check for a short between sensor terminals B and C or the wires leading to these terminals Check the wire leading to ECM terminal 1 Check the ECM connections

Check the wires leading to ECM terminals 21 and 22 *Replace Baro sensor (located

the engine compartment, tached

33

(three flashes, pause, three

MAP

sensor

flashes)

to the firewall)

Check vacuum sensor

hose(s) from MAP

Check electrical connections ECM *Replace MAP sensor

34

(three flashes, pause, four flashes)

41

(four flashes, pause, one flash)

Vacuum

sensor circuit

No distributor signals

in

at-

at

Check the wiring leading to-terminals 20, 21 and 22 of the ECM Check the connections at the ECM Check the vacuum sensor wiring and connections *Replace vacuum sensor (located in the engine compartment)

Check all wires and connections the distributor

at

Check distributor pick-up coil connections (Chapter 5) Check vacuum sensor circuit (see above)

Chapter 6 Emissions control systems a Trouble Code

42

Circuit or system

(four flashes, pause, two flashes)

Bypass or EST problem

i Probable cause

Note: /f the vehicle will not start and run, check the wire leading to ECM terminal 12. Note: An improper HE/ module can cause this trouble code. Check the EST wire leading to the HEI module E terminal Check all distributor wires

Check the wire leading from EST terminal

A to ECM

terminal

12

and the wire from EST terminal C to ECM terminal 11 Check all ECM connections *Replace HEI module

43

(four flashes, pause, three

flashes)

44

(four flashes, pause,

four

Electronic Spark Control (ESC) system

Lean exhaust

flashes)

Check wire leading to ECM terminal L Check the wiring ESC controller Check wire from ESC controller; reroute it away such as spark

connector at the and at the ECM knock sensor to if necessary, from other wires plug, etc.

On carburetor-equipped vehicles: Check for a sticking M/C solenoid (Chapter 4) Check ECM wiring connections, particularly terminals 14 and 9 Check for vacuum leakage at carburetor base gasket, vacuum hoses or intake manifold gasket Check for air leakage at air

management

system-to-exhaust

ports and at decel valve *Replace oxygen sensor On fuel-injected vehicles:

Check ECM

wiring connections

Check for incorrect fuel pressure Check for water in the fuel *Replace oxygen sensor 45

(four flashes,

pause,

five

Rich exhause

flashes)

On carburetor-equipped vehicles: Check for a sticking M/C solenoid (Chapter 4)

Check wiring at M/C solenoid connector Check the evaporative charcoal canister and its components for the presence of fuel (Chapters

1, 6) *Replace oxygen sensor On fuel-injected models: Check ECM wiring connections Check fuel pressure (Chapter 4) Check injectors for leakage

(Chapter 4) Check for intermittent bursts of fuel from the injectors at idle, indicating a faulty TPS

51.

(five flashes, pause, one flash)

PROM

54

(five flashes, flashes)

M/C solenoid

pause, four

problem

The PROM is located inside the ECM and is very delicate and easily broken. All diagnostic procedures should be done by a dealer mechanic.

Check all M/C solenoid (carburetor-equipped vehicles) and ECM wires and connections *Replace the M/C solenoid (see Chapter 4)

175

176

Chapter 6

ea

(five flashes, pause, five flashes)

eee

Oxygen

LT

Probable cause

Circuit or system

Trouble Code

55

Emissions control systems

EE

Check for corrosion on the ECM connectors and terminals Make sure that the four-terminal EST wiring harness is not too close to electrical signals such as spark plug wires, distributor housing, alternator, etc. Check the wiring of the various sensors

sensor circuit

*Replace the oxygen

3

sensor

Fuel Control System

General description 1 The function of this system is to control the flow of fuel through the carburetor idle main metering circuits. The major components of the system are the mixture control (M/C) solenoid and the oxy-

gen sensor. 2 The M/C solenoid changes the fuel/air mixture by allowing more or less fuel to flow through the carburetor. The M/C solenoid, located in the carburetor air horn, is in turn controlled by the ECM, which provides a ground for the solenoid. When the solenoid is energized, the fuel flow through the carburetor is reduced, providing a leaner mixture, and when the ECM removes the ground path, the solenoid de-energizes and allows more fuel flow. 3 The ECM determines the proper fuel mixture required by monitoring a signal sent by the oxygen sensor located in the exhaust stream. When the mixture is lean, the oxygen sensor voltage is low and the ECM commands a richer mixture. Conversely, when the mixture is rich, the oxygen sensor voltage is higher and the ECM commands a leaner mixture.

Checking Oxygen sensor 4 Make sure that the oxygen sensor has been replaced at the proper maintenance interval (refer to Chapter 1). 5 The proper operation of the sensor depends on the four conditions which follow: 6 Electrical conditions: The low voltages and low currents generated by the sensor depend upon good, clean connections which should be checked whenever a malfunction of the sensor is suspected or indicated. 7 Outside air supply: The sensor is designed to allow air circulation to the internal portion of the sensor. Whenever the sensor is removed and installed or replaced, make sure the air passages are not restricted. 8 Proper operating temperature: The ECM will not react to the sensor signal until the sensor reaches approximately 600°F (360°C). This factor must be taken into consideration when evaluating the performance of the sensor. 9 WNon-leaded fuel: The use of non-leaded fuel is essential for proper operation of the sensor. Make sure the fuel you are using is of this type. 10 In addition to observing the above conditions, special care must be taken whenever the sensor is handled, as directed in Chapter 1. Violation of any of these cautionary procedures may lead to sensor failure. Note: Do not attempt to measure the voltage output of the oxy-

gen sensor, because the current drain from a conventional voltmeter would be enough to permanently damage the sensor. For the same reason, never hook up test leads, jumpers or other electrical connections. Mixture control solenoid 11. Check the wiring connectors and wires leading to the mixture control solenoid for looseness, fraying and other damage. Repair or replace any damaged wiring as necessary. 12 Check the mixture control solenoid for apparent physical damage. Replace it if damage is found.

Component replacement Oxygen sensor 13 To replace the sensor, refer to Chapter 1. Mixture control solenoid 14 For E2SE carburetors, refer to Chapter 4.

Fig. 6.9 7

Details of a typical oxygen sensor installation (L4 engine shown) (Sec 3)

TBI harness connector

2

Oxygen sensor

15 For E4ME carburetors, due to the need for special tools, this procedure must be performed by a dealer or other suitably equipped repair shop.

4

Electronic Spark Timing (EST)

1 Electronic Spark Timing is used on all engines with which this manual is concerned. The EST distributor contains no vacuum or centrifugal advance, depending on commands from the ECM instead. The ECM receives a reference pulse form the distributor, indicating both engine RPM and crankshaft position, determines the proper spark advance for the engine operating conditions and sends an EST pulse to the distributor. 2 Under normal operating conditions, the ECM will always control the spark advance; however, under certain conditions such as crank- © ing or setting base timing, the distributor can operate independent of ECM control. This condiditon is called ‘bypass’ and is determined by the bypass lead from the ECM to the distributor. When the bypass lead is over two volts, the ECM will control the spark; however, disconnecting the four-terminal EST connector, or grounding the bypass lead, will caue the engine to operate in the bypass mode. 3 The V8 engines equipped with crossfire fuel injection (Model 400 TBI) or the high output (HO) option use Electronic Spark Control (EST) in conjunction with EST to reduce spark advance under detonation conditions. A knock sensor signals a separate ESC controller to retard the timing if it senses knock. The ESC controller, in turn, signals the ECM, which reduces spark advance until no more signals are received from the knock sensor. 4 For further information (and checking and component replacement procedures) regarding the EST distributor, refer to Chapter 5.

Chapter 6 SSS

ae

—_eree—e—e—ee——————— ——

5

PULSAIR system 4 This system performs some of the same functions as the AIR system, but utilizes exhaust pressure pulses to draw air into the exhaust system. Fresh air that is filtered by the air cleaner, to avoid the build-up of dirt on the check valve seat, is supplied to the system on a command from the ECM. The air cleaner also serves as a muffler to reduce noise in the system. 5 Components utilized in the system include the PULSAIR valve and external tubes and hoses. 6 The PULSAIR system's operation begins with the engine’s firing, creating a pulsating flow of exhaust gases which are of positive or negative pressure. The pressure or vacuum is transmitted through the external tubes to the PULSAIR valve, which reacts as follows: 7 \f the pressure is positive, the disc in the valve is forced to the closed position and no exhaust gas is allowed to flow past the valve and into the air supply. 8 If there is negative pressure (vacuum) present in the exhaust system at the valve, the disc will open, allowing fresh air to mix with the exhaust gases. 9 The disc, due to the inertia of the system, ceases to follow the pressure pulsations at high engine rpm. At this point, the disc remains closed, preventing any further flow of fresh air.

Air Injection Reaction (AIR)/PULSAIR reactor systems

General description Note: /f your engine is equipped with an air pump, your concern in this Section will be with the AIR system; if no air pump is present, refer to the procedures involving the PULSAIR system. AIR system 1 The AIR system helps reduce hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide levels in the exhaust by injecting air into the exhaust ports of each cylinder during cold engine operation or directly into the catalytic converter during normal operation. It also helps the catalytic converter reach proper operating temperature quickly during warm-up. 2 The AIR system uses an air pump to force the air into the exhaust stream. An Air Management Valve, controlled by the vehicle’s Electronic Control Module (ECM), directs the air to the correct location depending on engine temperature and driving conditions. During certain situations such as deceleration, the air is diverted to the air cleaner to prevent backfiring from too much oxygen in the exhaust stream. On V6 engines only, a deceleration (gulp) valve is used to help prevent backfiring during high vacuum conditions. The deceleration valve allows air to flow into the intake manifold and enter the air/fuel mixture to lean the rich condition created at high vacuum when the throttle closes upon deceleration. One-way check valves are also used in the AIR system's air lines to prevent exhaust gases from being forced back through the system. 3 The following components are utilized in the AIR system: an enginedriven air pump; air control, air switching and divert management valves; a deceleration valve (V6 only); air flow and control hoses; check valves;

Checking AIR system 10 Because of the ECM’s influence on this system, it is difficult for the home mechanic to make a proper diagnosis. If the system is suspected of not operating properly, individual components can be checked. 11. Begin any inspection by carefully checking all hoses, vacuum lines and wires. Be sure they are in good condition and that all connections are tight and clean. Also make sure that the pump drivebelt is in good condition and properly adjusted. 12 To check the pump, allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature and run it at about 1500 rpm. Locate the air hose running to the catalytic converter and squeeze it to feel for pulsations. Have an assistant increase the engine speed and check for a parallel increase in air flow. If this is observed as described, the pump is functioning properly. If it is not operating in this manner, a faulty pump is indicated. 13 The check valve can be inspected by first removing it from the air line. Attempt to blow through it from both directions. Air should only pass through in the direction of normal air flow. If it is either stuck open or stuck closed, the valve should be replaced. 14 To check the Air Management Valve, disconnect the vacuum signal line at the valve. With the engine running, see if vacuum is present in the line. If not, the line is clogged. If vacuum is present, have the valve checked out by a dealer or other qualified mechanic. 15 To check the deceleration valve, remove the air cleaner and plug the air cleaner vacuum source. With the engine running at the specified idle speed, remove the small deceleration valve signal hose from the

and a dual bed catalytic converter.

LOCK

AIR MANAGEMENT

VALVE

GASKET

Fig. 6.10

Details of a typical AIR management installation (Sec 5)

valve

TO CYLINDER

AIR

VIEW A

a

o4 DISC

DISC

Fig. 6.11

HEAD

FILTERED

FILTERED AIR

177

Emissions control systems a

TO CYLINDER

HEAD

— PRESSURE

VIEW B

and no air enters the valve; With positive pressure present in the PULSAIR valve (left), the valve disc remains closed the exhaust gases (Sec 5) when a vacuum is present in the valve (right), the disc opens and air mixes with

178

Chapter 6

Emissions control systems

Fig. 6.12

5.22

Removing the air pump pulley (note that the drivebelt

Removing the AIR pump filter (remove as shown

has previously been removed)

may occur) (Sec 5)

5.29

Removing the hose from the AIR system check valve

5.33

Removing

5.39

Removing the adjusting bolt from the AIR system pump

5.42 only

AIR system deceleration valve (arrow)

(the mounting

bolt is above the pump)

—

do not insert any tool behind the filter, as damage to the pump

a hose from the AIR management

—

valve

V6 engines

eS

eat

Chapter 6 ll

i

manifold vacuum source, then reconnect the signal hose and listen for air flow through the ventilation pipe and into the deceleration valve. There should also be a noticeable engine speed drop when the signal hose is reconnected. If the air flow does not continue for at least one second, or the engine speed does not drop noticeably, check the deceleration valve hoses for restrictions and leaks. If no restrictions or leaks are found, replace the deceleration valve with a new one. PULSAIR system 16 A-simple, functional test of this system can be performed with the engine running. Disconnect the rubber hose from the air valve and hold your hand over the valve’s inlet hole. With the engine idling, there should be a steady stream of air being sucked into it. Have an assistant apply throttle and as the engine gains speed, see if the suction increases. If this does not occur, the lines are leaking or restricted or the check valves are sticking. Also make sure that air is not being blown out of the air valve as this also is an indication that the check valves are sticking open. Service or replace the components as necessary. If other PULSAIR problems are suspected, have a dealer or repair shop diagnose the problems, as they might relate to the ECM/CCCS.

Component replacement

(AIR system)

Drivebelt 17 Loosen the pump mounting bolt and the pump adjustment bracket bolt. 18 Move the pump inboard until the belt can be removed. 19 Install the new belt and adjust it (refer to Chapter 1). AIR pump pulley and filter 20 Compress the drivebelt to keep the pulley from turning and loosen the pulley bolts. 21 Remove the drivebelt as described above. 22

Remove

the mounting

bolts and lift off the pulley (photo).

23 If the fan-like filter must be removed, grasp it firmly with needlenose pliers, as shown in the accompanying illustration, and pull it from the pump. Note: Do not insert a screwdriver between the filter and pump housing as the edge of the housing could be damaged. The filter will usually be distorted when pulled off. Be sure no fragments fall into the air intake hole. 24 The new filter is installed by placing it in position on the pump, placing the pulley over it and tightening the pulley bolts evenly to draw the filter into the pump. Do not attempt to install a filter by pressing or hammering it into place. Note: /t /s normal for the new filter to have an interference fit with the pump housing and, upon initial operation, it may squeal until worn in. 25 Install the drivebelt and, while compressing the belt, tighten the pulley bolts to the specified torque. 26 Adjust the drivebelt tension. Hoses and tubes 27 To replace any tube or hose, always note how it is routed first, either with a sketch or with numbered pieces of tape. 28 Remove the defective hose or tube and replace it with a new one of the same material and size and tighten all connections. Check valve 29 Disconnect the pump outlet hose at the check valve (photo). 30 Remove the check valve from the pipe assembly, making sure not to bend or twist the assembly. 31 Install a new valve, after making sure that it is a duplicate of the part removed, and tighten all connections. Air management valve 32 Remove the air cleaner. 33 Disconnect the vacuum signal line from the valve. Also disconnect the air hoses and wiring connectors (photo). 34 If the mounting bolts are retained by tabbed lock washers, bend the tabs back, then remove the mounting bolts and lift the valve off of the adapter or bracket. 35

a

tighten the pump

mounting bolts until all components are installed.

41 Following installation, adjust the drivebelt tension as described in Chapter 1. Deceleration valve 42

Disconnect the vacuum

43

Remove the screws retaining the valve to the engine bracket (if

hoses from the valve (photo).

present) and remove the valve. 44 Install a new valve and reconnect

all hoses.

Component replacement (PULSAIR system) 45 Remove the air cleaner and disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. 46 Disconnect the rubber hose from the pulse air valve. 47 \|f equipped, disconnect the support bracket. 48 lf equipped, remove the PULSAIR solenoid and bracket from the

PULSAIR

unit.

49 Loosen the nuts that secure the air tubes to the cylinder head and remove the assembly. Due to the high temperature at this area, these connections may be difficult to loosen. Penetrating oil applied to the threads of the nuts may help. 50 Before installing, apply a light coat of oil to the ends of the air tubes and anti-seize compound to the threads of the attaching nuts. 51 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

Note: For information relating to the replacement of catalytic converter components, refer to Chapter 4.

6

Early Fuel Evaporation (EFE) system

General description Servo type If your vehicle is equipped with a vacuum servo type EFE system, located between the exhaust manifold and the exhaust pipe, refer to Chapter 1 for a general description of the system and system checking procedures. Electrically heated type 1 This unit provides rapid heat to the intake air supply on carbureted engines by means of a ceramic heater grid which is integral with the carburetor base gasket and located under the primary bore. 2 The components involved in the EFE’s operation include the heater

grid, a relay, electrical wires and connectors 3

and the ECM.

The EFE heater unit is controlled by the vehicle’s Electronic Con-

trol Module (ECM) through a relay. The ECM senses the coolant temperature level and applies voltage to the heater unit only when the engine is below a pre-determined level. At normal operating temperatures, the heater unit is off. 4 If the EFE heater is not coming on, poor cold engine performance will be experienced. If the heater unit is not shutting off when the engine is warmed up, the engine will run as if it is out of tune (due to the constant flow of hot air through the carburetor).

Checking Servo type 5 To check

the

operation

of

the

EFE/TVS,

allow

the

engine

temperature to fall below 80°F (26°C).

ee! {t3——

Port 2

X

Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Be sure to use

a new gasket when

installing the valve.

Air pump 36 Remove the air management valve and adapter, if equipped. 37 If the pulley must be removed from the pump, it should be done prior to removing the drivebelt as described elsewhere in this Section. 38 If the pulley is not being removed, remove the drivebelt. 39 Remove the pump mounting bolts and separate the pump from the engine (photo). AO

hg

Emissions control systems

Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Note: Do not

Fig. 6.13 A typical EFE/TVS switch employed in servo-type EFE systems, typically located in the intake manifold (Sec 6)

180

Chapter 6

Emissions control systems

i a

6 Drain the coolant from the engine until the level is below the level of the switch. 7 Disconnect and label the vacuum lines, then remove the switch. 8 Blow into either of the TVS ports. Air should flow through the valve. 9 Heat the TVS in hot water until the temperature of the valve is above

90°F (32°C). 10 Blow into either port of the TVS. No air should flow through the valve. 11 If the condition in either Step 9 or 10 is not met, replace the valve with a new one. 12 For other checking procedures for the servo type EFE system, refer to Chapter 1. Electrically heated type 13 If the EFE system is suspected of malfunctioning while the engine is cold, first visually check all electrical wires and connectors to be sure they are clean, tight and in good condition. 14 With the ignition switch On, use a circuit tester or voltmeter to be sure current is reaching the relay. If not, there is a problem in the wiring leading to the relay, in the ECM’s thermo switch, or in the ECM itself. 15 Next, with the engine cold but the ignition switch On, disconnect the heater unit wiring connector and use a circuit tester or voltmeter to see if current is reaching the heater unit. If so, use a continuity tester to check for continuity in the wiring connector attached to the heater

SS SSSE

OO

eee

unit. If continuity exists, the system is operating correctly in the cold engine mode.

16 If current was not reaching the heater unit, but was reaching the relay, replace the relay. 17. To check that the system turns off at normal engine operating temperature, first allow the engine to warm up thoroughly. With the engine idling, disconnect the heater unit wiring connector and use a circuit tester or voltmeter to check for current at the heater unit. 18 If current is reaching the heater unit, a faulty ECM is indicated. 19 For confirmation of the ECM’s condition, refer to Section 2 or have the system checked by a dealer or automotive repair shop.

Component replacement Servo type EFE switch 20 Note: The oxygen sensor may be located near the EFE valve on some vehicles. If so, care should be taken not to damage the sensor or its connections during this procedure. 21 Disconnect the vacuum hose from the actuator fitting. 22 Remove the exhaust pipe-to-manifold nuts, washers (if used) and tension springs (if used). 23 Lower the exhaust (crossover) pipe. In some cases, complete removal

is not necessary.

24 Remove the nuts retaining the valve assembly to the exhaust manifold. 25 Remove the valve assembly. If only the actuator assembly is to be replaced, separate it from the valve. 26 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. TVS switch (V8 models equipped with carburetor only) 27 Drain the engine coolant until the level is below the level of the switch. 28 Disconnect the hoses from the TVS switch, making note of their positions for reassembly. 29 Using a wrench, remove the TVS switch. 30 Apply a soft-setting sealant uniformly to the threads of the new TVS switch. Be careful that none of the sealant gets on the sensor end of the switch. 31 Install the switch. 32 Connect the vacuum hoses to the switch in their original positions and add coolant as necessary. Heater element 33 Remove the air cleaner. 34 Disconnect all wires, vacuum hoses and fuel lines from the carburetor.

6.37 Removing the EFE system under-carburetor element

heater

35 36 37

Disconnect the wiring connector leading to the EFE unit. Remove the carburetor, referring to Chapter 4 if necessary. Lift off the heater unit (photo).

38

Installation is the reverse of the removal

procedure.

39 Following installation, start the engine and check for air and fuel leaks around the carburetor.

*

7.8

Removing the EGR valve from the manitold

7.15 only)

Removing the EGR TVS from the manifold (V6 engines

Chapter 6

Emissions control systems

Heater relay 40 Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal. 41 Disconnect and label the relay electrical connections. 42 Remove the bolts retaining the relay and remove the relay. 43 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Solenoid 44 Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal. 45 If necessary to gain access to the solenoid, remove the air cleaner. 46 Disconnect and label the electrical connections and vacuum at the solenoid. 47 Remove the solenoid.

48

Installation is the reverse of the removal

7

Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system

hoses

procedure.

General description 1 An EGR system is used on all engines with which this manual is concerned. The system meters exhaust gases into the engine induction system through passages cast into the intake manifold and into the fuel/air mixture for the purpose of lowering combustion temperatures, thereby reducing the amount of oxides of nitrogen (NOX) formed. 2 The amount of exhaust gas admitted is regulated by a vacuum or backpressure controlled (EGR) valve in response to engine operating conditions. The EGR valve, in turn, is under control of the CCCS/ECM. 3 Common engine problems associated with the EGR system are rough idling or stalling when at idle, rough engine performance during light throttle application and stalling during deceleration.

181

Component replacement EGR valve 7 Disconnect the vacuum hose at the EGR valve. 8 Remove the nuts or bolts which secure the valve to the intake manifold or adapter (photo). 9 Lift the EGR valve from the engine. 10 Clean the mounting surfaces of the EGR valve. Remove all traces of gasket material (photo). 11 Place the new EGR valve, with a new gasket, on the intake manifold or adapter and tighten the attaching nuts or bolts. 12 Connect the vacuum signal hose. TVS (V6 engines only) 13 Drain sufficient coolant from the radiator to bring the level below the bottom of the TVS (the TVS is located at the front of the intake manifold). 14 Remove the hoses from the valve, labeling them to ensure proper installation. 15 Remove the TVS with a wrench and replace it with a new one

(photo). 16 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

DIAPHRAGM

PLATE ASSEMBLY

Checking 4

Refer to Chapter

1 for EGR valve checking procedures.

5 If the EGR valve appears to be in proper operating condition, carefully check all hoses connected to the valve for breaks, leaks and kinks. Replace or repair the valve/hoses as necessary. 6 Due to the interrelationship of the EGR system and the ECM, further checks of the system should be made by referring to Section 2 or having the system checked by a dealer or repair shop.

Fig. 6.14 diaphragm

Different types of EGR valves are identified by their plate assembly designs (Be sure to obtain a valve of identical type when replacing it) (Sec 7)

AIR

aw. BOWL VENT

CLEANER

CARBURETOR VACUUM

SIGNAL

OFF IDLE PURGE PORT

IDLE PURGE LINE

FUEL TANK VENT

IDLE PURGE PORT (CONSTANT)

VENT RESTRICTER

PRESSURE - VACUUM RELIEF GAS CAP VAPOR STORAGE

| ae CANISTER CHARCOAL —.,,

}§

EAE

>"

FUEL TANK

ES| OPEN BOTTOM

OLE: PURGE AIR

Fig. 6.15

Details of a typical EECS system

(Sec 8)

182

Chapter 6 Emissions control systems

ee

8

Evaporative Emissions Control System (EECS)

General description 1 This system is designed to trap and store fuel that evaporates from the carburetor and fuel tank which would normally enter the atmosphere and contribute to hydrocarbon (HC) emissions. 2 Thesystem consists of a charcoal-filled canister and lines running to and from the canister. These lines include a vent line from the gas tank, a vent line from the carburetor float bowl or injection unit, an idle purge line into the vehicle’s induction system and a vacuum line to the manifold.

In addition, there is a purge valve in the canister. The

CCCS/ECM controls the vacuum to the purge valve with an electrically operated solenoid. The fuel tank cap is also an integral part of the system. 3 A tip-off that the system is not operating properly is a strong fuel odor.

Checking 4 Maintenance and replacement of the charcoal canister filter is covered in Chapter 1. 5 Check all lines in and out of the canister for kinks, leaks and breaks along their entire lengths. Repair or replace as necessary. 6 Check the gasket in «iie gas cap for signs of drying, cracking or breaks. Replace the gas cap with a new one if defects are found.

7

Due to its interrelationship

with the CCCS/ECM,

other system

checks should be made by referring to Section 2 or having the system checked

by a dealer or repair shop.

Component replacement 8 Replacement of the canister filter is covered in Chapter 1. 9 When replacing any line running to or from the canister, make sure the replacement line is a duplicate of the one you are replacing. These lines are often color-coded to denote their particular usage.

9

Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system

General description 1

The positive crankcase ventilation system, or PCV as it is more com-

SS

SS

monly called, reduces hydrocarbon emissions by circulating fresh air through the crankcase to pick up blow-by gases which are then rerouted through the carburetor to be burned in the engine. The main components of this simple system are vacuum hoses and 2 a PCV valve which regulates the flow of gases according to engine speed and manifold vacuum.

Checking 3 The PCV system can be checked quickly and easily for proper operation. This system should be checked regularly as carbon and gunk

deposited by the blow-by gases will eventually clog the PCV valve and/or system hoses. When the flow of the PCV system is reduced or stopped, common symptoms are rough idling or reduced engine speed at idle. 4 To check for proper vacuum in the system, remove the top plate of the air cleaner and locate the small PCV filter on the inside of the air cleaner housing. 5 Disconnect the hose leading to this filter. Be careful not to break the molded fitting on the filter. 6 With the engine idling, place your thumb lightly over the end of the hose. You should feel a slight pull or vacuum. The suction may be heard as your thumb is released. This will indicate that air is being drawn all the way through the system. If a vacuum is felt, the system is functioning properly. Check that the filter inside the air cleaner housing is not clogged or dirty. If in doubt, replace the filter with a new one, an inexpensive safeguard (refer to Chapter 1). 7 \|f there is very little vacuum or none at all at the end of the hose, the system is clogged and must be inspected further. 8 Shut off the engine and locate the PCV valve. Carefully pull it from its rubber grommet. Shake it and listen for a clicking sound. That is the rattle of the valve’s check needle. If the valve does not click freely, replace it with a new one. 9 Now start the engine and run it at idle speed with the PCV valve removed. Place your thumb over the end of the valve and feel for suction. This should be a relatively strong vacuum which will be felt immediately. 10 If little or no vacuum is felt at the PCV valve, turn off the engine and disconnect the vacuum hose from the other end of the valve. Run the engine at idle speed and check for vacuum at the end of the hose just disconnected. No vacuum at this point indicates that the vacuum hose or inlet fitting at the engine is plugged. If it is the hose which is blocked, replace it with a new one or remove it from the engine and

CRANKCASE VENTILATION

VALVE NN

=

CLEAN AIR

—=

VOLATILE OIL FUMES

---> MIXTURE OF AIR AND FUMES

Fig. 6.16

Details of a typical PCV system on the L4 engine (left) and on V6 and V8 engines (right) (Sec 9)

Chapter 6

Emissions

183

control systems

ee

low it out sufficiently with compressed air. A clogged passage at the sarburetor or manifold requires that the component be removed and horoughly cleaned to remove carbon build-up. A strong vacuum felt

joing into the PCV valve, but little or no vacuum

coming out of the

jalve, indicates a failure of the PCV valve requiring replacement with

i new one.

11 When purchasing anew PCV valve, make sure it is the correct one ‘or your engine. An incorrect PCV valve may pull too little or too much vacuum, possibly leading to engine damage.

Component replacement 12 The replacement procedures for both the PCV valve and filter are covered in Chapter 1.

10

Thermostatic

Air Cleaner (THERMAC)

General description

1. The thermostatic air cleaner (THERMAC) system is provided to improve engine efficiency and reduce hydrocarbon emissions during the initial warm-up period by maintaining a controlled air temperature at the carburetor. This temperature control of the incoming air allows leaner carburetor and choke calibrations. 2 Thesystem uses a damper assembly located in the snorkel of the air cleaner housing to control the ratio of cold and warm air directed into the carburetor. This damper is controlled by a vacuum motor which is, in turn, modulated by a temperature sensor in the air cleaner. On some engines, a check valve is used in the sensor, which delays the opening of the damper flap when the engine is cold and the vacuum signal is low. 3 It is during the first few miles of driving (depending on outside temperature) that this system has its greatest effect on engine performance and emissions output. When the engine is cold, the damper flap blocks off the air cleaner inlet snorkel, allawing only warm air from the exhaust manifold to enter the carburetor. Gradually, as the engine warms up, the flap opens the snorkel passage, increasing the amount of cold air allowed in. Once the engine reaches normal operating temperature, the flap opens completely, allowing only cold, fresh air to enter. 4 Because of this cold-engine-only function, it is important to periodically check this system to prevent poor engine performance when

cold or overheating of the fuel mixture once the engine has reached operating temperatures. If the air cleaner valve sticks in the ‘no heat’ position, the engine will run poorly, stall and waste gas until it has warmed up on its own. A valve sticking in the ‘heat’ position causes the engine to run as if it is out of tune (due to the constant flow of hot air to the carburetor).

Checking 5 Refer to Chapter 1 for maintenance and checking procedures for this system. If problems were encountered in the system’s performance while performing the routine maintenance checks, refer to the procedures which follow. 6 If the damper door did not close off snorkel air when the cold engine was first started, disconnect the vacuum hose at the snorkel vacuum motor and place your thumb over the hose end, checking for vacuum. If there is vacuum going to the motor, check that the damper door and link are not frozen or binding within the air cleaner snorkel. Replace the vacuum motor if the hose routing is correct and the damper door moves freely. 7 \f there was no vacuum going to the motor in the above test, check the hoses for cracks, crimps and proper connection. If the hoses are clear and in good condition, replace the temperature sensor inside the air cleaner housing.

Component replacement Air cleaner vacuum

8

motor

Remove the air cleaner assembly from the engine and disconnect

the vacuum hose from the motor. 9 Drill out the two spot welds which secure the vacuum

motor retaining strap to the snorkel tube. 10 Remove the motor attaching strap. 11 Lift up the motor, cocking it to one side to unhook the motor linkage at the control damper assembly. 12 To install, drill a 7/64-inch hole in the snorkel tube at the center

of the retaining strap. 13 Insert the vacuum motor linkage into the control damper assembly. 14 Using the sheet metal screw supplied with the motor service kit, attach the motor and retaining strap to the snorkel. Make sure the sheet metal screw does not interfere with the operation of the damper door. Shorten the screw if necessary. 15 Connect the vacuum hose to the motor and install the air cleaner assembly.

TEMPERATURE SENSOR INSIDE AIR CLEANER (SHOWN OPEN)

FULL VACUUM SOURCE

Fig. 6.17

AIR CLEANER VACUUM MOTOR (VALVE SHOWN OPEN)

tf

Details of a typical THERMAC

system (Sec 10)

\

Components involved in removing the THERMAC Fig. 6.18 vacuum motor on a typical carbureted vehicle (Sec 10) 3 Retaining strap 1 Spot welds 4 Sensor 2 Motor assembly

Fig. 6.19 vacuum

Components involved in removing the THERMAC motor on a typical fuel-injected vehicle (Sec 10) 71 Spot welds 2 Motor assembly

3. 4

Retaining strap Sensor

184

Chapter 6 Emissions control systems

Air cleaner temperature sensor 16 Remove the air cleaner from the engine and disconnect the vacuum hoses at the sensor. 17 Carefully note the position of the sensor. The new sensor must be installed in exactly the same position. 18 and 19 the 20 trol 21

Pry up the tabs on the sensor retaining clip and remove the sensor clip from the air cleaner.

Install the new sensor with a new gasket in the same position as old one. Press the retaining clip onto the sensor. Do not damage the conmechanism in the center of the sensor. Connect the vacuum hoses and attach the air cleaner to the engine.

11.

Transmission

Converter Clutch (TCC)

1. Toward optimizing the efficiency of the emissions control network, the ECM controls an electrical solenoid mounted in the automatic

transmission

of vehicles so equipped.

When

the vehicle reaches a

specified speed, the ECM energizes the solenoid and allows the torque converter to mechanically couple the engine to the transmission, under which conditions emissions are at their minimum. However, because of other operating condition demands (deceleratiion, passing, idle, etc.), the transmission must also function in its normal, fluid-coupled mode. When such latter conditions exist, the solenoid de-energizes, return-

SENSOR en

ae CLI Penn

se

(at)py Fig. 6.20 Carefully note the position of the sensor before removing the sensor retaining clip (Sec 10) ing the transmission to fluid coupling. The transmission also returns to fluid-coupling operation whenever the brake pedal is depressed. 2 Due to the requirement of special diagnostic equipment for the testing of this system, and the possible requirement for dismantling of the automatic transmission to replace components of this system, checking and replacing of the components should be handled by a dealer or automotive repair shop.

Chapter 7 Part

A

Manual transmission

Contents

Extension housing oliseal—areplacemenitum ruse tenaeee General information Sih seen Sea bre eae CNet ctr, oF aoe

Neutral start Shift control Speedometer mansmission

switch — replacement and adjustment........ lever (5-speed) — removal and installation ..... gear Sealt="replacement

fluid level check

Specifications

nen

‘sos

eee

Cera, (eh ie

7. .0.0..........

Chapter

i 1 9 4

Transmission (4-speed) — removal and installation......... Transmission (5-speed) — removal and installation......... Transmission linkage (4-speed) — removal, installation and Feo) (UkHdpYe)Ascend Neee a ve OU a OR go Bere ee hn 2

8

Transmission

1

eesereneny ores Speerre woe Vrreree? SE

A

Ft-Ibs

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15 55 35

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77 mm

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SPEAKER

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