Haynes Chevrolet & GMC Pick-Ups Owners Workshop Manual 1967 thru 1985 1850101299, 9781850101291

Citation preview

CHEVROLET 1967 thru 1985

2WD and 4WD

6-cyl in-line and Suburban n Blazer All

V8 engine models Jimmy

Owners Workshop Manual

mi

&

Chevrolet

GMC

Pick-ups

Owners Workshop Manual by J H Haynes Member

of the Guild of Motoring Writers

Trevor Hosie and Peter G Strasman Models covered: Chevrolet C/K 10, 20 and 30 Series. Blazer and Suburban

GMC CE/CS/KE

1

500,

2500 and 3500

Series,

Jimmy and Suburban

Covers 230, 250 and 292 cu in 6 cylinder in-line engines and 283, 305, 307, 350, 396, 400 and 454 cu in V8 engines. Manual and automatic transmission

ISBN

©

85010 129 9

1

Haynes Publishing Group 1979, 1982, 1985

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

Printed

England

in

(420-8L2)

ILTTCHCT1VE

/

m\

JCCKOMK member

Haynes Publishing Group Sparkford Nr Yeovil

Somerset BA22 7JJ England Library of

Haynes

Congress

Publications, Inc

861 Lawrence Drive

Newbury Park California

91320 USA

Catalog card number

85-81 245

Acknowledgements Thanks are due to the Chevrolet Motors Division and the Truck and Coach Division of the General Motors Corporation for their assistance with technical information and the supply of certain illustrations. The Champion Sparking Plug Company supplied the illustrations showing the various spark plug conditions, and the bodywork repair photographs used in this manual were provided by Lloyds Industries Limited who supply Turtle Wax', 'Dupli-color Holts' and other Holts

The Section interference in

of Chapter

was

10 dealing with the suppression of radio P. Davey, and was first published

originated by Mr.

I.

Motor magazine.

thanks are due to all those people at Sparkford who helped in this manual, in particular Stanley Randolph who planned the layout of each page, and Matthew Minter who edited the Lastly,

in

the production

text.

range products.

About this manual Its

aim

logical sub-division of the vehicle.

you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a service station or dealer), provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs it may be even quicker than booking the vehicle into a service station or dealer, and going there twice to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs the service station or dealer must charge to cover its labor and overheads. The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Then the tasks are described and photographed in a step-by-step sequence so that even a novice can do the work. The aim

Its

of this

manual

is

to help

arrangement The manual

is

divided

into

thirteen

Chapters,

each covering a

Sections,

numbered with

The Chapters

are each divided into

single figures, eg 5; and the Sections into

(or sub-sections), with decimal numbers following on from the Section they are in, eg 5. 1 5.2, 5.3 etc. It is freely illustrated, especially in those parts where there is a detailed sequence of operations to be carried out. There are two forms

paragraphs

,

and photographs. The figures are numbered in sequence with decimal numbers, according to their position in the

of illustration: figures

Chapter: eg,

Fig.

6.4

is

the 4th drawing/illustration

Photographs are numbered

in

Chapter

6.

(either individually or in related groups) the

same as the Section or sub-section they show is described.

of the text

where the operation

There is an alphabetical index at the back of the manual as well as contents list at the front. References to the left' or right' of the vehicle are in the sense of a person sitting in the driver's seat facing forwards. Whilst every care is taken to ensure that the information in this manual is correct no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given. a

Introduction to the Chevrolet/GMC light duty trucks (C and K series) The trucks described in this manual are conventional factory produced vehicles with either pick-up, coach or cab/chassis bodywork. Custom built bodywork fitted to cab/chassis vehicles is not covered due to the sheer number of body styles available. The engines may be of the in-line or V8 type driving through two or four wheels using either manual or automatic transmission. The trucks in the range are rugged vehicles, economical to operate and simple to service and repair.

Due problems

extremely long production run of the series, no be experienced in obtaining spare parts, either genuine,

the

to will

pattern or secondhand.

Throughout this manual reference is made to C and K series or C10, 20. 30 or K10, 20, 30 models. It should be understood that all references

apply

otherwise stated.

equally

to

the

equivalent

GMC

models,

unless

Contents Page

2

Acknowledgements

About

this

2

manual

Introduction to the Chevrolet/GMC light duty trucks (C and K series)

2

Buying spare parts and vehicle identification numbers

5

Tools and working

6

facilities

Jacking and towing

8

Lubrication chart

9

Recommended

lubricants

and

fluids

9

Routine maintenance

10

Chapter

Engine

12

Chapter 2

Cooling system

49

Chapter 3

Fuel and emission control systems

56

Chapter 4

Ignition

Chapter 5

Clutch

120

Chapter 6

Transmission

126

Chapter 7

Propeller shafts

169

Chapter 8

Front and rear axles

175

Chapter 9

Braking system

184

Chapter 10

Electrical

Chapter

Suspension and steering

262

Bodywork and frame

302

1

1

Chapter 12

system

system

105

200

Chapter 13 Supplement

323

Conversion Factors

398

Index

399

1974 Chevrolet Cheyenne Super Pick-up

1977 Chevrolet Fleetside Pick-up

Buying spare parts

and vehicle

identification

numbers

Buying spare parts Spare

parts

are

available

from

many sources although

they

ENGINE DESIGNATION

two categories - those items which are supplied by a Chevrolet dealer and those which are supplied by auto accessory stores. In some cases the two facilities may be combined with an overthe-counter service and a pre-pack display area. In some cases it may be possible to obtain parts on a service-exchange basis but, where this can be done, always make sure that the parts returned are clean and intact. Our advice regarding spare parts purchase is as follows:

generally

fall

into

Chevrolet dealers: This is the best source of supply for major items such as transmissions, engines, body panels, etc. It is also the only place to obtain parts if your vehicle is still under warranty, since the warranty may be invalidated if non-Chevrolet parts are used. Auto accessory shops: Auto accessory shops are able to supply practically all of the items needed for repair, maintenance, tune-up and customizing. This is not only true for the vehicle but also for tools and test

equipment.

Whichever source of spare parts is used it will be essential to provide information concerning the model and year of manufacture of your vehicle.

V8-454-4

DIVISION

MODEL YEAR

C = CHEVROLET T = GMT \

7 = 1977

CHASSIS TYPE

C

2

WHEEL DRIVE

K

4

WHEEL DRIVE

SEQUENTIAL NUMBER

ASSEMBLY Vehicle identification

numbers

A-Lokewood

Modifications are a continuing and unpublicised process in vehicle manufacture. Spare parts manuals and lists are compiled on a numerical basis, the individual vehicle numbers being essential to identify correctly, the component required.

number and rating plate is located on the left-hand door lock pillar. The number stamped on the plate may be decoded after reference to the accompanying illustration. The vehicle

identification

The service parts identification plate is located on the inside of the glovebox door. The plate includes the vehicle serial number, the wheelbase, production options and special equipment. Always refer to this plate

when

BODY STYU

4-

Cob-chassis Pickup and Van

5-

Panel

Truck-Pontiac

B-Baltimore

S-St.

F-Flint

U-Lordstown Z-Fremont

J3-

PLANT

V-GM

Janesville

Louis

1-Oshawa

3-GMAD

Detroit

4-Scarborough

6-Suburban

Decoding details

for vehicle identification plate

ordering spare parts.

MFD. BY GENERAL MOTORS CORPORATION

o

for all

Series.

GAWR FRONT

GVWR H GAWR REAR

VINI

Z3

O

i

CAMPER LOADING DATA ] DIM

CWR INFLAT ION

FRONT REAR

Q

SEE

A[

DIM

Bl

DATA FOR T IRES FURNISHED WITH VEHICLE I

IMPORTANT: RETAIN THIS PLATE AS A PERMANENT RECORD

PRESSURE

1

I

I

PRESSURE

|

|

QQ

WARRANTY VOIDED IF LOADED IN EXCESS OF RATINGS OWNERS MANUAL FOR OTHER LOADING AND INFLATION DATA Vehicle identification plate

Service parts identification plate

Tools and working

facilities

Introduction

A

and minor

good tools is a fundamental requirement for anyone contemplating the maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle For the owner who does not possess any, their purchase will prove a considerselection of

repair

Included

list.

in this list is a

comprehensive set of

sockets. Although these are expensive they will be found invaluable as they are so versatile - particularly if various drives are included in the

yourself.

We recommend the -j- in square-drive type, as this can be used with most proprietary torque wrenches. If you cannot afford a socket set, even bought piecemeal, then inexpensive tubular box wrenches

quality,

are a useful alternative.

able

expense,

offsetting

some

of the

savings

made by

doing-it-

However, provided that the tools purchased are of good they will last for many years and prove an extremely worthwhile investment. To help the average owner to decide which tools are needed to carry out the various tasks detailed in this manual, we have compiled three lists of tools under the following headings: Maintenance and minor repair, Repair and overhaul, and Special. The newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit and confine himself to the simpler jobs around the car. Then, as his confidence and experience grow, he can undertake more difficult tasks, buying extra tools as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a Maintenance and minor repair tool kit can be built-up into a Repair and overhaul tool kit over a considerable period of time without any major cash outlays. The experienced do-it-yourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the Special category when he feels the expense is justified by the amount of use to which these tools will be put. It is obviously not possible to cover the subject of tools fully here. For those who wish to learn more about tools and their use there is a book entitled How to Choose and Use Car Tools available from the publishers of this Manual.

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit The tools given

in

this

list

should be considered as a

The

tools

this

in

list

tools from the Special

Sockets

(or

will

box wrenches)

minimum

if

We

Pliers

-

needle nosed

Pliers

-

circ/ip (internal

Cold chisel - \ inch Scriber (this can be

made by grinding

Valve grinding tool Steel rule/straight edge Allen keys Selection of files Wire brush (large) Axle stands

-

\ toftinAF

Adjustable wrench - 9 inch Engine sump/gearbox/rear axle drain plug key (where applicable) Spark plug wrench (with rubber insert) Spark plug gap adjustment tool Set of feeler gauges Brake adjuster wrench (where applicable) Brake bleed nipple wrench Screwdriver - 4 in long x \ in dia (flat blade) Screwdriver - 4 in long x \ in dia (cross blade) Combination pliers - 6 inch

Hacksaw, junior Tire

pump

Tire

pressure gauge

^to^inAE

the

end of a broken hacksaw

Scraper (this can be made by flattening and sharpening one end of a piece of copper pipe) Center punch

types of wrench.

(ring

Combination wrenches

cover range

and external)

Pin punch

wrenches

to

Reversible ratchet drive (for use with sockets) Extension piece, 10 inch (for use with sockets) Universal joint (for use with sockets) Torque wrench (for use with sockets) Self-grip wrench - 8 inch Ball pein hammer Soft-faced hammer, plastic or rubber Screwdriver - 6 in long x ^ in dia (flat blade) Screwdriver - 2 in long x fo in square (flat blade) Screwdriver - 1 \ in long x \ in dia (cross blade) Screwdriver - 3 in long x j in dia (electricians) Pliers - electricians side cutters

one end, open-ended the other); although more expensive than open-ended ones, they do give the advantages of both tion

occasionally need to be supplemented by

list.

blade)

routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair operations are to be undertaken. recommend the purchase of combina-

requirement

set.

Grease gun (where applicable) Oil can

Hacksaw

Jack (strong scissor or hydraulic type)

Special tools The tools in this list are those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturers' instructions. Unless relatively difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken frequently, it will not be economic to buy many of these tools. Where this is the case, you could consider clubbing together with friends (or an automobile club) to make a joint purchase, or borrowing the tools against a deposit from a local repair station or tool hire specialist.

cloth (J sheet) Wire brush (small)

The following list contains only those tools and instruments freely available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealer network. You will find

Funnel (medium

occasional references to these manufacturers' special tools

Fine

emery

size)

of this manual.

Repair and overhaul tool

kit

These tools are virtually essential for anyone undertaking any major repairs to a car, and are additional to those given in the Maintenance

in

the text

Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the vehicle manufacturer's special tool is given However, sometimes, there is no alternative to using them. Where this is the case and the relevant tool cannot be bought or borrowed you will have

Tools and working facilities to entrust the

work

Wrench jaw gap comparison

to a franchised dealer.

Valve spring compressor Piston ring compressor

J

Balljoint separator

0-250

275

Universal hub/bearing puller Impact screwdriver

312 315 344 354 375 393 433 437 445 472 500 512 525

Micrometer and/ or vernier gauge Carburetor flow balancing device (where applicable) Dial gauge

Stroboscopic timing

light

Dwell angle meter/tachometer Universal electrical multi-meter Cylinder compression gauge Lifting tackle

Trolley jack

Light with extension lead

Buying tools For practically all tools, a tool factor is the best source since he will a very comprehensive range compared with the average repair station or accessory shop. Having said that, accessory shops often offer excellent quality tools at discount prices, so it pays to shop around.

551

have

Remember, you

don't have to buy the most expensive items on the always advisable to steer clear of the very cheap tools. There are plenty of good tools around at reasonable prices, so ask the proprietor or manager of the shop for advice before making a shelf,

but

it

is

purchase.

Working

facilities

Not to be forgotten when discussing tools, is the workshop itself. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some form of suitable working area becomes essential. It is appreciated that many an owner mechanic is forced by circumstances to remove an engine or similar item, without the benefit of a garage or workshop. Having done this, any repairs should always be done under the cover of a roof. Wherever possible, any dismantling should be done on a clean flat workbench or table at a suitable working height. Any workbench needs a vise: one with a jaw opening of 4 in (100 mm) is suitable for most jobs. As mentioned previously, some clean dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as the lubricants, cleaning fluids, touch-up paints and so on which soon become necessary.

1 1

1 1 1 1

lights.

always keep a supply of old newspapers and and try to keep any working area as

clean as possible.

gauges, meters, or

etc,

become

must be

carefully stored

where they cannot be

rusty.

soon restore items

like this to a

1

1 1

1

1

1

Take a little care when tools are used. Hammer heads inevitably become marked and screwdrivers lose the keen edge on their blades from time to time. A little timely attention with emery cloth or a file will

good serviceable

finish.

'"

Whitworth

$ inAF 10 mm 1

mm

1

i^inAF $ in Whitworth;^ in BSF 12 mm 4-inAF 13 mm | in Whitworth; £ in BSF 14 mm

AF

&

600 625 629 669

& in Whitworth; £ f inAF

687 708 710 748 750 812

^ in AF 18 mm | in Whitworth; £

820 866 875 920

£ in Whitworth;^ 22 mm

000 010 023 062 100 125 181

1

in

mm

5

in

BSF

in

BSF

in

BSF

in

BSF

in

BSF

in

BSF

in

BSF

in

BSF

j|

in

BSF

1

in

BSF

mm mm

16 17

mm

19

fin AF

HinAF

|inAF \ in Whitworth; £ % inAF

24 mm inAF 1

$ in Whitworth; | 26 mm 1£ in AF; 27 mm | in Whitworth; jj

1|inAF 30

mm

1J§inAF 1 ^ in Whitworth;

1

damaged

AF ''i

mm

46

1

Having purchased a reasonable

the tools away. Never leave them lying around after they have been used. A simple tool rack on the garage or workshop wall, for items such as screwdrivers and pliers, is a good idea. Store all normal wrenches and sockets in a metal box. Any measuring instruments,

in

H 9

812 860 875 968 000 050

1

1

dirt,

mm

7

&in AF 8 mm

811

1

Care and maintenance of tools tool kit, it is necessary to keep the a clean serviceable condition. After use, always wipe off any grease and metal particles using a clean, dry cloth, before putting

iinAF

1

1

1

in

size

1

1

1

tools

Wrench

200 250 259 300 312 390 417 437 480 500 574 614 625 670 687

1

1

clean, lint-free rags available,

(in)

562 590

937 944

1

Another item which may be required, and which has a much more general usage, is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of at least £ in (8 mm). This, together with a good range of twist drills, is virtually essential for fitting accessories such as wing mirrors and reversing Last, but not least,

aw gap

table

1

2 2

165 2 362 2

jj

in

Whitworth; £

1|inAF 32 mm | in Whitworth; | 1,| inAF ||

in

36

Whitworth;

mm

l^inAF I

in

Whitworth;

1-J-inAF

40 mm; 41

1-| in 1

in

1ft

||

in

Whitworth

mm AF

Whitworth;

1

1

in

BSF

inAF

mm 1

in

BS

2 inAF 1^ in Whitworth; 1|

in

BS

1

l^inAF 50

55 60

mm mm mm

Jacking and towing Jacking On early models,

raising the vehicle.

the jacking equipment is stored either with the spare tire or secured in a corner of the cab. On later models, the jack is stored within the engine compartment.

To jack up the front of the vehicle, place the jack either under the lower control arm pivot bar (early models) or under the front edge of the lower control arm (later models). To jack-up the rear of the vehicle, place the jack under the rear axle casing as close to the roadwheel as possible. To change a roadwheel, always slacken the wheel nuts before

When

carrying out repairs or maintenance, always supplement the

jack with axle stands placed under the chassis frame.

Towing If the vehicle is to be towed, restrict the speed to 35 mph and the distance to 50 miles. Make sure that the tow rope is fixed to the main structural parts of the vehicle, not the bumpers. The front crossmember (independent front suspension) or the front and rear leaf spring shackles are the most suitable connecting points. If the vehicle is equipped with automatic transmission, limit the

mph and distance to 30 miles, otherwise disconnect the propeller shaft from the rear axle and tie it up out of the way. If the vehicle is equipped with four-wheel drive it is recommended that the front propeller shaft is disconnected before the vehicle is towing speed to 30

towed.

Always make sure that the steering towed by another vehicle.

Push To

starting start

a

POSITION JACK UNDER AXLE HOUSING AS CLOSE TO

WHEEL AS POSSIBLE

Jacking points (early models)

K

MODELS

0^

POSITION JACK AS CLOSE TO WHEEL AS

POSITION JACK AS CLOSE TO WHEEL AS

POSSIBLE

FROI JACK

C-

MODEL

vehicle

with

a

defective starter motor or a

connecting a fully charged battery to the discharged one in the disabled vehicle. Observe the following conditions: Check that the ignition switch is off, the parking brake is applied and the transmission is in neutral or N'. Connect the positive and negative terminals of the booster battery to the identical terminals of the discharged battery. Start the engine of the rescue' vehicle and allow it to run for a few minutes, then operate the starter switch on the disabled vehicle. Once the engine is running on the disabled vehicle, disconnect the

jump

leads, negative (-) first. Throughout the operations, keep naked flames away from the battery vent caps and take care not to touch the alligator clips on the jump leads together or to any other metal components.

JACK

POSSIBLE

ARM

JACK HANDLE

JACK HANDLE

FRONT Jacking points

REAR (later

partly

vehicles (except C10 and CE/CS 1500 \ ton models with light duty emission control systems) should be push started, not towed. Select top gear with the clutch depressed (and cold start choke in operation if applicable) and when the vehicle reaches 10 to 15 mph, engage the clutch which will cause the engine to fire. Vehicles with light duty emission control systems or automatic transmission cannot be push started and should be jump started by all

AXLE ASM.

POSITION JACK AS CLOSE TO WHEEL AS

CONTROL 6.00

POSSIBLE

JACK HANDLE

unlocked (OFF) before being

(manual transmission)

discharged battery, CENTER UNDER LOWER CONTRCX ARM PIVOT BAR

is

models) Steering lock positions

Recommended Component

lubricants

and

fluids

Lubricant

20W-50

(above 20°

1

Engine

SE

2

Manual transmission

GL5 SAE 90 (SAE 80 Canada)

2

Automatic transmission

Dexron type

3

Standard rear axle

GL5 SAE 90 (SAE 80 Canada)

3

Positraction rear axle

GM

1

05 022

4

Manual steering gear

GM

1

05 052

4

Power

GM

105001

5

Control arm balljoints

Chassis grease

GM

603 1-M

6

Control arm pivot shafts

Chassis grease

GM

6031 -M

7

Tie-rod ends

Chassis grease

GM

6031 -M

8

Front wheel bearings

Chassis grease

GM

6031 -M

9

Distributor

Engine

steering gear

10 Brake master cylinder 1

slip joint

F)

or

5W-20

(below 20°

F)

fluid

1

1

oil,

or

7 or

Dexron

renew

No

Delco Supreme

Propeller shaft universal joints

12 Propeller shaft

type:

fluid

lubricator (later models)

1 1

or

DOT-3

Chassis grease

GM 6040-M

Chassis grease

GM 6040-M

13 Rear spring shackles

(early

models)

Chassis grease

GM

14 Rear wheel bearings

(early

models)

Chassis grease

GM603 1-M

603 1-M

Four-wheel drive vehicles, front axle

GL5 gAE 90 (SAE 80 Canada)

Controls, door hinges, locks

Engine

oil

Note: The above are general recommendations only. Lubrication requirements Consult operator's handbook supplied with vehicle.

may

vary for individual vehicles

and from

territory to territory.

Routine maintenance Maintenance

and desirable for the terms of performance and economy from the car. Over the years the need for periodic lubrication - oiling, greasing and so on - has been drastically reduced if not totally eliminated. This has unfortunately tended to lead some owners to think that because no such action is required the items either no longer exist or is

essential for ensuring safety

purpose of getting the best

will last for ever.

largest

initial

This

is

in

a serious delusion.

element of maintenance

is

It

follows therefore that the

visual examination. This

may

Brakes Check master cylinder fluid reservoir and top-up Check parking brake operation.

if

Steering Check tire pressures. Examine tires for wear or damage. Check steering wheel lost movement. Where evident, trace and wear in linkage or gear.

lead to repairs or renewals.

The service

intervals

and the procedures given are basically those The major service intervals

recommended by the have always been

vehicle manufacturer.

manufactured up to

974, but

7500

1

in

multiples for

1

of

6000

miles

for

975 models an extended

vehicles interval

in

Electrical Check operation of all lights, front and Check operation of horn and wipers. Check washer fluid level and top-up.

rear.

view of the improvements in lubricants which have taken place during the past few years, servicing at 7500 mile intervals on pre-1975 models will normally multiples of

miles has been introduced.

In

prove adequate.

Where any vehicle is used under arduous conditions, in very dusty atmospheres, in continual stop/start conditions or where the engine does not have a chance to thoroughly warm up, engine oil should be at intervals of 3000 miles. The vehicle manufacturers do not recommend supplemental oil additives, and only recommend oils of SE designation (GM specification 61 36-M 1972). Note: Where an item is referred to in the routine maintenance table, and that item is not applicable to a particular model, it is to be ignored.

changed

Every 7500 miles or at 6 monthly intervals

Engine Renew engine oil. Renew oil filter. Clean and re-gap spark plugs. Check exhaust system for corrosion.

Brakes Every 250 miles or weekly - whichever

comes first

necessary.

Inspect disc pads for wear.

Suspension and steering Engine

Lubricate

Check the oil level and top-up if necessary. Check the coolant level and top-up if necessary. Check the battery electrolyte level and top-up if necessary.

Move

suspension and steering points. even out tire tread wear. Check suspension and steering for wear. all

the roadwheels to

Check power steering

fluid level.

rectify

Routine maintenance

Every

1

5

11

000 miles

or at

1

2 monthly intervals

Engine Check manifold heat

valve.

Renew fuel filter. Renew PCV valve. Renew spark plugs. Check and adjust ignition timing and dwell angle. Check drivebelt tension and adjust. Check all emission control systems and connecting hoses.

Brakes Check wear

of brake

drum shoe

linings.

Electrical Check headlamp beam adjustment.

Body and frame Clean underbody and make good any undersealing.

Every 30 000 miles or at 24 monthly intervals

Engine refill cooling system with fresh antifreeze mixture. cleaner element.

Drain, flush and

Renew

air

Check and adjust

Renew ECS

idle speed. charcoal canister

filter.

Steering Check steering gear

for

grease ieak.

If

evident, rectify and

refill

with

specified lubricant.

Transmission Renew axle and transfer case Lubricating a

CV joint on front

propeller shaft

oils.

Lubricate clutch cross-shaft. Repack wheel bearings.

Transmission Check fluid levels in manual or automatic transmission, front and rear axles and transfer case and top-up as necessary. Renew oil in front and

Every 60 000 miles or at 4 yearly intervals

if trailer pulled regularly. Lubricate propeller shaft universal and

transmission fluid. conditioning system (Dealer check). Bleed brake hydraulic fluid, renew all rubber seals ponents and fill with fresh fluid. Renew brake booster filter.

Renew automatic

rear axles

Bodywork Lubricate hinges, locks and controls.

slip joints.

Check

air

in

system com-

Chapter

1

Engine

Contents Part 1 - Engine general Engine/automatic transmission- separation and reconnection Engine dismantling - general Engine/manual transmission -separation and reconnection .... Engine - method of removal Engine/transmission (except four wheel drive vehicles) - removal and installation General description On-vehicle repairs

Piston/connecting rod assemblies- removal

6 7 5 3

4 1

Engine ancillary components- installation Engine front and rear mountings- renewal with engine in

vehicle

Engine reassembly - general Engine start-up after major repair or overhaul Engine to transmission reconnection and engine installation

Examination and renovation - general Flywheel (or flexplate) and starter ring gear - examination Lubrication system Main bearings - renewal with engine in vehicle Oil filter - renewal Oil pan and oil pump - removal Oil pump and oil pan - installation Oil pump - overhaul Oil seals - renewal with engine in vehicle

13 19 31

and rings - servicing

Timing gear and camshaft- installation Timing gear and camshaft - removal Valve adjustment Valves and valve seats- examination and renovation Valve guides and springs - examination and renovation Valve lifters -dismantling, cleaning and reassembly

11

34 24 25 27

2

10 18

Part 3- V8 engines Camshaft, timing chain and sprockets- installation Crankshaft and main bearings- installation Crankshaft and main bearings- removal Cylinder head -dismantling Cylinder head - installation Cylinder head - reassembly Cylinder heads - removal Engine ancillary components- installation Engine front and rear mountings - renewal with engine

23

in

Part 2 - In-line engines

Camshaft and bearings- examination and renovation Crankshaft and bearings- examination and renovation Crankshaft and main bearings - removal Crankshaft, main bearings, piston/connecting rods and flywheel (or flexplate) - reassembly and installation Crankshaft torsional damper- removal Cylinder block - examination and renovation Cylinder head -decarbonising, examination and servicing Cylinder head - dismantling Cylinder head -reassembly and installation Cylinder head - removal

Pistons, piston pins

20 17 14

29

9

32 8 33

39 28 36 35 16

26 15

38 22 12

53

50 46 41

56 55

40 57 63

vehicle

Engine reassembly - general Engine start-up after major repair or overhaul Engine to transmission reconnection and engine

49 60

installation

59

Examination and renovation Flywheel (or flexplate) - installation Flywheel (or flexplate) - removal Lubrication system Main bearings - renewal with engine Oil pan and oil pump - removal

48 52

in

45 47 62 42 54

vehicle

pump and

oil pan - installation - renewal with engine in vehicle Pistons and connecting rods- installation Pistons, connecting rods and bearings- removal Timing chain, sprockets and camshaft- removal Valve adjustment

Oil

Oil seals

61 51

44 43 58

30 4-

21

Part

37

Fault diagnosis - engine

Fault diagnosis

64

Specifications - general

Engine application chart Year

1967

1968

1969

Vehicle series

C10

C20

K10

K20

6-cyl-230

6-cyl-230

6-cyl-250

6-cyl-250

V8-283

V8-283

V8-283

V8-283

C30

6-cyl-250

6-cyl-250

6-cyl-250

6-cyl-250

6-cyl-250

V8-307

V8-307

V8-307

V8-307

V8-307

6-cyl-250

6-cyl-250

6-cyl-250

6-cyl-250

6-cyl-250

V8-307

V8-307

V8-307

V8-307

V8-307

Chapter

1

Engine

13

Year

Vehicle series

1970

1971

1972

1973

6-cyl-250 6-cyl-292

6-cyl-250 6-cyl-292

6-cyl-250 6-cyl-292

6-cyl-250 6-cyl-292

6-cyl-250 6-cyl-292

V8-307 V8-350 V8-396

V8-307 V8-350 V8-396

V8-307 V8-350 V8-396

V8-307 V8-350

V8-307 V8-350

6-cyl-250 6-cyl-292

6-cyl-250 6-cyl-292

6-cyl-250 6-cyl-292

6-cyl-250 6-cyl-292

6-cyl-250 6-cyl-292

V8-307 V8-350 V8-402

V8-307 V8-350 V8-402

V8-307 V8-350 V8-402

V8-307 V8-350

V8-307 V8-350

6-cyl-250 6-cyl-292

6-cyl-250 6-cyl-292

6-cyl-250 6-cyl-292

6-cyl-250 6-cyl-292

6-cyl-250 6-cyl-292

V8-307 V8-350 V8-402

V8-307 V8-350 V8-402

V8-307 V8-350 V8-402

V8-307 V8-350 V8-402

V8-307 V8-350 V8-402

6-cyl-250

6-cyl-250 6-cyl-292

6-cyl-250 6-cyl-292

V8-307 V8-350 V8-454

V8-307 V8-350 V8-454

6-cyl-250 6-cyl-292

6-cyl-250 6-cyl-292

V8-350 V8-454

V8-350 V8-454

V8-307 V8-350 V8-454

1974

6-cyl-250

V8-350 V8-454

1975

1976

1977 onwards

*This engine also

6-cyl-250

6-cyl-250

V8-307 V8-350

V8-307 V8-350

6-cyl-250

6-cyl-250 6-cyl-292

V8-350

V8-350

6-cyl-250

6-cyl-292

6-cyl-292

6-cyl-250

6-cyl-292

V8-350 V8-454

V8-350 V8-454

V8-350 V8-454

V8-350

V8-350 V8-^00

V8^00

6-cyl-250

6-cyl-292

6-cyl-292

6-cyl-250

6-cyl-292

V8-350 V8-454

V8-350 V8-454

V8-350 V8-454

V8-350 V8-400

V8-350 V8-400

6-cyl-250

6-cyl-292

6-cyl-292

6-cyl-250

6 cyl-292

V8-305 V8-350* V8-454

V8-305 V8-350* V8-454

V8-350* V8-454

V8-305 V8-350* V8-400

V8-305 V8-350* V8-400

used on K30 series vehicle from 1977

Specifications - in-line engines

(All

dimensions

in

inches unless otherwise stated)

Engine- general Type Displacement

Six cylinder, in-line, overhead valves

230 cu 3£

Bore Stroke

250 cu

in

292 cu 21

in

in

3.250

°8 3.530

8.5:1

8.5:1

8.0:1

Torque

Horsepower at rpm at rpm*

130 lbf/in 2 20 lbf/in 2 1 40 at 4400 220lbfftat 1600

130 lbf/in 2 20 lbf/in 2 155 at 4200 235lbfftat 1600

130 lbf/in 2 20 lbf/in 2 1 70 at 4000 275 Ibf ft at 1600

Firing order

1

1-5-3-6-2-4

1-5-3-6-2-4

Compression ratio* Compression pressure Permitted difference

at cranking speed, throttle

in

wide open* compression pressure between cylinders .

.

-5-3-6-2-4

4.125

Cylinder bore Diameter

Maximum Maximum

out-of-round taper

3.8745 0.0005 0.0005

to

3.8775

Pistons

230 and 250 cu

Clearance between piston and cylinder wall: Production (new) Service (max)

0.0005 0.0025

to 0.001

in

292 cu

in

0.0026 0.0045

to

0.0032

Chapter

14

1

Engine 230 and 250 cu

Piston rings Groove clearance (compression Top compression 2nd compression Endgap Groove clearance (oil control)

292

in

cu

in

rings):

0.0020 to 0.0040 0.0020 to 0.0040 0.010 to 0.020 0.0005 to 0.0055

0.001 2 to 0.0027

0.0012 to 0.0032 0.010 to 0.020 0.0 to 0.005 0.01 5 to 0.055

Endgap

0.01 5 to 0.055

Piston pin 0.9270

Diameter Clearance

in

to

0.0001 5

piston

0.0008

to

0.001 6

Diameter (main journal)

2.2983

to

2.2993

Maximum Maximum

0.001 0.001

Interference

fit

connecting rod

in

0.9270 to 0.9273 0.00025 to 0.00035 0.0008 to 0.001

0.9273 0.00025

to

Crankshaft out-of-round taper Running clearance (main bearing): 230 and 250 engines 292 engine Maximum clearance Crankshaft endfloat

0.0003 to 0.0029 0.0008 to 0.0034 0.004 0.002 to 0.006

Diameter (crankpin): 230 and 250 engines 292 engine

.999 and 2.000 1.999 to 2.100 0.001 0.001 1

Maximum Maximum

out-of-round taper Running clearance (connecting rod bearings): 230 and 250 engines 292 engine Maximum clearance Connecting rod side clearance

0.0007 0.0007 0.004 0.0085

to

0.0027 0.0027

to

0.0135

to

Camshaft Lobe

lift:

230 engine 250 engine 292 engine

0.1

896

0.221 7 0.23 1 5 1 .8682 to 0.001 5

Journal diameter Run-out (max)

1

.8692

Valves 45° 46°

Valve face angle Valve seat angle Seat width: Intake

£

to

Exhaust

A

t0

Stem

^ &

clearance:

0.0010

Intake

Intake

(all

One

engines)

Exhaust (230 and

1

250

turn

dimensions

down

of nut from zero lash

$$

4 US quarts 5

US

quarts

'Compression ratios, compression pressures and engine torque may vary according equipment installed. Consult vehicle decal

(All

0.0027

1^ (292 engine 1fJ

engines)

Oil capacities Without oil filter change With oil filter change

Specifications -

to

0.001 5 to 0.0032

Exhaust Valve lash Valve spring installed height:

to date of vehicle

production and type of emission control

V8 engines

in

inches unless otherwise stated)

Engine- general Eight cylinder. V-configuration, overhead valves

Type Displacement Bore

283 cu

Stroke

30

Compression ratio* Compression pressure Permitted difference

in

3.875

in

cranking speed, throttle wide open* compression pressure between cylinders

at

.

.

80:1 2 1 50 Ibf/in

20

Ibf/in

2

305 cu

in

307 cu

in

3.736 3.48

3.875 3.25

8.5:1

9.0:1

Not available Not available

2 50 Ibf/in 20 Ibf/in 2 1

Chapter

1

Engine

15

283 cu

Displacement Bore Stroke

Compression ratio* Compression pressure Permitted difference

wide open* compression pressure between cylinders

at cranking speed, throttle

in

Horsepower at rpm at rpm

Torque

Firing order (All

V8

in 305 cu in 4400 Not available 275lbf ft at 1600 Not available

307 cu in 200 at 4600 300lbf ft at 2400

350 cu

400 cu

175

Horsepower at rpm Torque at rpm*

.

.

at

396 cu

in

4.250

3.76

8.0:1

9.0:1

9.0:1

4.0 10.25:1

cu

Maximum

in in

taper

Pistons Clearance between piston and cylinder wall: 283 cu in engine Production (new) Service (max) 305 cu in engine Production (new) Service (max) 307 cu in engine Production (new) Service (max) 350 cu in engine Production (new) Service (max) 396 cu in engine Production (new) Service (max) 400 cu in engine Production (new) Service (max) 454 cu in engine Production (new) Service (max)

0.0005 0.0025

to

0.0011

0.0007 0.0027

to

0.0010

0.0005 0.0025

to

0.0011

0.0007 0.0027

to 0.00 13

0.001 8 to 0.0026

0.0045 0.001 4 to 0.0020

0.0034

0.0024 0.0049

to

0.0034

0007 0012

to

0.0027 0.0032

0012 0012

to

001 2 001 2

to

001 8

to

0010

to

0012

to

001 2 001 7

to

Piston rings Groove clearance (compression

283

rings):

engine Top compression ring 2nd compression ring 305 and 307 cu in engines Top compression ring 2nd compression ring 350 cu in engine Top compression ring 2nd compression ring 396 cu in engine Top and 2nd compression rings 3rd compression ring 400 cu in engine Top compression ring 2nd compression ring 454 cu in engine (both compression rings) Endgap (compression rings): All engines except 305 and 350 305 cu in engine: Top compression ring 2nd compression ring 350 cu in engine: Top compression ring 2nd compression ring cu

in

2 2 2 2 1 50 lbf/in 1 50 lbf/in 1 50 lbf/in 1 50 lbf/in 20 lbf/in 2 20 lbf/in 2 20 lbf/in 2 20 lbf/in 2 215 at 4400 310 at 4800 265 at 4400 345 at 4400 320lbfftat2400 400lbf ftat3200 400lbf ftat2400 500lbf ft at 3000

3.8745 to 3.8775 3.7350 to 3.7385 3.8745 to 3.8775 3.9995 to 4.0025 4.1246 to4. 1274 4.1246 to4. 1274 4.2495 to 4.2525 0.0005 0.0005

engine engine cu in engine cu in engine cu in engine cu in engine cu in engine Maximum out-of-round

305 307 350 396 400 454

454 cu

4.125

Cylinder bore Diameter: 283 cu

in

4.125 3.76

1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

engines)

in

4.0 3.48

in

to

to

to

to

0.0027 0.0032 0.0032 0.0027 0.0032 0.0030

0.0027 0.0032 0.0032

0.010

to

0.020

010 010

to

to

0.020 0.025

010

to

0.020

01 3 to 0.025

Chapter

16 Groove clearance

283 305 307 350 396 400 454 Endgap

cu cu

in

cu cu cu cu cu

in

in

in

in in

in

(oil

1

Engine

control ring):

0.000 to 0.005 0.002 to 0.007 0.000 to 0.005 0.002 to 0.007 0.0020 to 0.0035 0.0005 to 0.0065 0.0005 to 0.0065

engine engine engine engine engine engine engine

control ring):

(oil

283 cu in engine 305 and 307 cu in engines 350 cu in engines 396 cu in engine 400 cu in engine 454 cu in engine

0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01

5 to 0.055 5 to 0055 5 to 0.055 to

0.030

5 to 0.055 5 to 0.055

Piston pin 283, 305, 307 and 350 cu in engines: Diameter Clearance in piston (except 305) Clearance in piston (305) Fit in connecting rod (interference) 396, 400 and 454 cu in engines: Diameter Clearance in piston Fit in connecting rod (interference)

0.9273 0.00025 0.00025 to 0.00035 0.0008 to 0.001 6

0.9270

to

0.0001 5

to

0.9895 to 0.9898 0.00025 to 0.00035 0.0008 to 0.00 16

Crankshaft Diameter (main journal): 283 cu in engine

No journal No 2, 3 and 4 journals No 5 journal 305 cu in engine No journal No 2, 3 and 4 journals No 5 journal 307 and 350 cu in engines No 1,2,3 and 4 journals No 5 journal 396 cu in engine No and 2 journals No 3 and 4 journals No 5 journal 400 cu in engine No and 2 journals No 3 and 4 journals No 5 journal 454 cu in engine No journal No 2, 3 and 4 journals No 5 journal Maximum out-of-round (all engines) Maximum taper (all engines) 1

1

.

.

.

.

1

1

1

2987 2983 2978

to

4484

to

4481

to

4479

to

4484 4479

to

7487

to

7481

to

7478

to

7481 7481

to

7473

to

7485

to

7481

to

7478

to

to to

to

to

2.2997 2.2993 2.2998 2.4493 2.4490 2.4488 2.4493 2.4488

2.7496 2.7490 2.7488

2.7490 2.7490 2.7483 2.7494 2.7490 2.7488

001 001

Running clearance (main bearings):

283 cu in engine No 1 2, 3 and 4 journals No 5 journal 307 and 350 cu in engines No 1 journal No 2, 3 and 4 journals No 5 journal 396 cu in engine No journal No 2. 3 and 4 journals No 5 journal 400 cu in engine No journal No 2, 3 and 4 journals No 5 journal 454 cu in engine No 1,2,3 and 4 journals No 5 journal ,

.

.

.

.

0008 to 0.0024 010 to 0.0026 0003 0006 0008

1

1

.

.

.

.

to

0.00 15 0.001 8

to

0.0023

to

0007 0013 0024

to

0.00 19

to

0.0025 0.0040

0003 0006 0008

to

0.001 6 0.001 8

to

0.0023

to

0.0025 0.0045

0013 0024

to

to

to

Chapter Crankshaft endfloat: 283 cu in engine

1

Engine

0.003 0.002 0.006 0.002 0.006

305, 307 and 350 cu in engines 396 cu in engine 400 cu in engine 454 cu in engine Diameter (crankpin): 283 cu in engine 305 cu in engine 307 and 350 cu in engines 396 cu in engine 400 cu in engine 454 cu in engine Running clearance (connecting rod bearing): 283, 307 and 350 cu in engines 305 cu in engine 396, 400 and 454 cu in engines Connecting rod side clearance: 283, 305, 307 and 350 cu in engines 396, 400 and 454 cu in engines

17

to 0.011 to to to

to

0.006 0.010 0.006 0.010

1.999 to 2.000 99 to 2.200 2.099 to 2.100 2.1

2.1985 2.0990 2.

to

to

2.1995 2.1000

1985 to2. 1995

0.0007

to

0.001 3

to

0.0009

to

0.008

to

0.0028 0.0035 0.0025

0.014

0.01 5 to 0.025

Camshaft Lobe

lift

(intake):

283 cu 305 cu 307 cu 350 cu 396 cu 400 cu 454 cu Lobe

lift

in

in in in in in in

0.2658 0.2485 0.2600 0.2600 0.2714 0.2365 0.2343

engine engine engine engine engine engine engine

(exhaust):

283 cu in engine 305 and 307 cu in engines 350 cu in engine 396 cu in engine 400 cu in engine 454 cu in engine

0.2658 0.2733 0.2733 0.2824 0.2411 0.2343

Journal diameters:

283, 305, 307 and 350 cu in engines 396, 400 and 454 cu in engines

1.8682 1.9482

to to

1.8692 1.9492

Valves 45° 46°

Valve face angle Valve seat angle Seat width:

Etc*

Intake

Exhaust

Stem

clearance:

0.0010 0.0012

Intake

Exhaust Valve lash Valve spring installed height (Intake and Exhaust): 283 cu in engine 305 cu in engine

One

to to

turn

0.0027 0.0029

down from

zero lash

Intake

Exhaust

307 and 350 cu in engines 396, 400 and 454 cu in engines Oil capacities (all engines) Without oil filter change With oil filter change

Compression equipment

ratios,

installed.

compression pressures and engine torque Consult vehicle decal

4 US quarts 5

may

US

quarts

vary according to date of vehicle production

Torque wrench settings

Ibfft

In-line engines Connecting rod cap nuts (230 and 250 cu in engines) Connecting rod cap nuts (292 cu in engine) Flywheel housing bolts Main bearing cap bolts Thermostat housing bolts Flywheel bolts (230 and 250 cu in engines) Flywheel bolts (292 cu in engine)

35 40 30 65 30 60 1

10

and the type of emission

control

Chapter

18

Engine

1

Ibfft

Torsional damper bolt Cylinder head bolts: 1

st

60 35 60 95 20 65 25 25 Hand

stage

2nd stage Final Oil

pan drain plug

Oil

pump

bolts

Spark plugs Oil filter

center bolt (early type

Oil filter

(throw-away type)

filter)

tight

V8 engines Oil filter center bolt (where applicable) Spark plugs Camshaft sprocket bolts

25 15

20

Flywheel bolts: 283, 305, 307, 350 and 400 cu in engines 396 and 454 cu in engines Main bearing cap bolts: 283, 305, 307 and 350 cu in engines 396, 400 and 454 cu in engines Torsional

damper

60 65 80 110

bolt:

305, 307, 350 and 400 cu 396 and 454 cu in engines Flywheel housing bolts Torque converter housing bolts Connecting rod cap nuts: 283 cu in engine 305, 307, 350 and 400 cu 396 and 454 cu in engines Cylinder head bolts: 283, 305, 307 and 350 cu 1 st stage

in

engines

in

engines

in

engines

60 85 30 30 35 45 50

20 45 65

2nd stage Final

396, 400 and 454 cu

in

engines

30 60 80

stage 2nd stage st

1

Final Oil

pump

Oil

pan drain plug

Part

1

65 20

bolts

- Engine general (d)

1

General description

1

The engine used may be

of six cylinder in-line or

The engine capacity varies according

V8

type, accord-

to the year of production:

may be selected as a factory-fitted option. All the power units are of conventional overhead valve design, and 3 incorporate hydraulic valve lifters.

also the engine size

4

The cylinder block and heads are

5

On

six

seven main

V8

of cast-iron construction. cylinder in-line engines, the crankshaft is supported bearings with end-thrust being taken by No 7 bearing.

on

On

is supported on five main bearings. camshaft is gear-driven from the crankshaft on in-line engines, and chain-driven on V8 engines. The V8 engines used in the range of vehicles covered by this 7 manual are known either as small V8s for the 283, 305, 307, 350 and 400 cu in engines, or as large or Mk IV V8s for the 396 and 454 cu

6

in

and

installation

engines, the crankshaft

The

engines.

(e)

Remo val and installation

(f)

Renewal

On-vehicle repairs

The following operations may be remove the engine from the vehicle: (a)

(b) (c)

rod

of the

oil

pan and oil pump

oil

seal

Removal of the crankshaft and flywheel, and renewal of the main 2 bearings, should be carried out after the engine has been removed from the vehicle.

3

Engine - method of removal

The method of engine removal adopted will be governed by the equipment available. As a general guide, all engines used in conventional two wheel 2 drive vehicles covered by this manual, can be removed with or without 1

lifting

the transmission attached. Vehicles fitted with four wheel drive have a transfer case fitted to 3 the rear of the transmission. Therefore, it is only possible to remove the

4

1

piston/connecting

the

of the crankshaft rear

engine, leaving the transmission

2

of

assemblies

ing to vehicle model.

2

Removal

carried out without having to

Removal and installation of the cylinder heads Removal and installation of the intake and exhaust manifolds Removal and installation of the camshaft and timing gear

It

is

easier,

when

in

possible, to

position

in

the vehicle.

remove the engine and transmission

as a unit as described in this Chapter. Where it is not practical or possible, due to four-wheel drive or 5 limited space, to remove the complete engine and transmission as a unit, the transmission must be separated from the engine. Details of this

can be found

A good

in

Chapter

6.

quality mobile type hoist or pulley block will be needed and, in the case of the pulley block, a strong and convenient beam capable of taking the necessary weight.

6

Chapter

4

Engine/transmission removal and installation

(except four wheel

drive

vehicles)

-

Engine

1

22 Support the engine/transmission on a suitable hoist, ensure that the slings used are safely located, then just take the weight of the power unit on the hoist. 23 With the power unit safely supported by the hoist, remove the rear engine mounting bolts and the crossmember.

Note: It is necessary, on vehicles equipped with four-wheel drive, to leave the transmission in position in the vehicle. Engine removal procedures for these vehicles are basically the same as for conventional two-wheel drive vehicles, so initially carry out the operations described

24 Remove the front engine mountings. 25 Make a final check to see that all connecting

paragraphs 1 through 1 6 of this Section. A t this point, the engine to transmission bolts must be removed in order to separate the engine from the transmission. This procedure will be found in Chapter 6.

26

in

Disconnect and remove the battery. Place suitable containers beneath the vehicle and drain the cooling system and engine oil. Refer to Chapter 3, and remove the air cleaner and ducts. 3 4 Refer to Chapter 12, and remove the hood. 1

19

wires, pipes and conhave been detached, then carefully hoist the engine/transmission out of the engine compartment.

trols

Installation is a reversal of removal, but remember to refill the engine with oil and coolant, adjust the clutch free movement and topup the transmission oil.

2

Remove the radiator hoses. Undo and remove the bolts securing the Where applicable, remove the radiator shroud. 5 6

Disconnect

1

radiator in position.

wires from the engine and transmission. there is likely to be any doubt about their reconnection, identify them. 8 Disconnect the accelerator linkage. Where applicable, disconnect the manual choke cable. 9 Disconnect and suitably plug the fuel line to the fuel pump. 1 1 Disconnect the heater hoses. 12 Identify and disconnect all air and vacuum lines. 1 3 Where applicable, disconnect the power steering hoses. 1 4 Disconnect the engine ground straps. 1 5 Disconnect the exhaust downpipes and move them to one side. 7

all

electrical

If

16 Remove the fan and pulley. 1 7 Disconnect the clutch actuating assembly from the transmission. Disconnect the speedometer drive cable from the transmission. 1 8 1 9 Refer to Chapter 7, and remove the propeller shaft. 20 Disconnect the shift linkage from the transmission. 21 On automatic transmission vehicles, disconnect the automatic transmission fluid cooler lines and suitably plug the lines and openings.

r

5

Engine/manual transmission - separation and reconnection With the engine/transmission removed from the vehicle, clean all external dirt. Do this using kerosene and a stiff brush, or a

away

water-soluble solvent. Unscrew and remove the bolts from the flywheel housing and 2 then, supporting the weight of the transmission, withdraw it in a straight line from the engine. Do not allow the weight of the transmission to hang upon the clutch shaft while the shaft is engaged in the driven plate, or the clutch mechanism may be damaged. Reconnection is a reversal of separation but if the clutch has been 3 disturbed, the driven plate must be centralized first as described in

Chapter

6

5.

Engine/automatic transmission - separation and reconnection

1 Repeat paragraph 1 of Section 5. Unbolt and remove the cover-plate from the lower front face of the 2 torque converter housing. 3 Mark the relative position of the flexplate to the torque converter and then unbolt the flexplate from the torque converter. To bring each

20

Fig.

1

.3

C

series rear engine

mounting (Sec 4)

(early in-line engines)

Fig.

1

.4

C

series rear engine

mounting (Sec 4)

(later in-line

engines)

Chapter

1

Engine

Fig.

1

.6

21

C

series front engine

mounting

(in-line

engines) (Sec 4)

view so that it can be unscrewed, the engine crankshaft will be turned by applying a wrench to the crankshaft pulley bolt. If the spark plugs are first removed, the job will be made easier. 4 Disconnect the detent (downshift) rod or cable, then extract the bolts which hold the torque converter housing to the engine. Support the weight of the transmission and withdraw it in a 5 straight line. As the transmission starts to move, pry the torque converter rearwards. This will prevent loss of fluid and keep the torque bolt into

have

to

in engagement with the oil pump. Once the transmission has been withdrawn, use

converter

6 Fig.

1

.5

K

series rear engine

mounting

(in-line

engines) (Sec 4)

the one described

in

a tool similar to

Chapter 6 to keep the torque converter

in

the fully

rearward position. 7 Reconnection is a reversal of separation. Remember to align the flexplate marks with those made on the torque converter.

Fig.

1 .7

K

series front engine

mounting

(in-line

engines) (Sec 4)

22

VIEWB 350 CU.

454 CU.

VIEW C

IN.

IN.

350 RIGHT SIDE ONLY

TURBO HYDRA-MATIC 400 ONLY

Fig.

1

.8

Engine mounting diagram (C series V8) (Sec

4)

24

7

Chapter

Engine

1

"**«?

^T y

Engine dismantling -general

It is best to mount the engine on a dismantling stand but if one is 1 not available, then stand the engine on a strong bench so as to be at a

comfortable working height. During the dismantling process the greatest care should be taken 2 to keep the exposed parts free from dirt. As an aid to achieving this, it is a sound scheme to thoroughly clean down the outside of the engine, removing all traces of oil and congealed dirt. Use kerosene or a water-soluble grease solvent. The latter com3 pound will make the job much easier, as, after the solvent has been applied and allowed to stand for a time, a vigorous jet of water will wash off the solvent and all the grease and filth. If the dirt is thick and deeply embedded, work the solvent into it with a wire brush. 4 Finally wipe down the exterior of the engine with a rag and only then, when it is quite clean, should the dismantling process begin. As the engine is stripped, clean each part in a bath of kerosene or gas-

J-

23523

oline.

Never immerse parts which have internal oilways in kerosene 5 (such as the crankshaft) but wipe them carefully with a gasoline soaked rag. Probe the oilways with a length of wire and if an air line is available, blow the oilways through to clean them. 6 Re-use of old engine gaskets is false economy and can give rise to oil and water leaks, if nothing worse. To avoid the possibility of trouble after the engine has been reassembled, always use new gaskets throughout. 7 Do not throw the old gaskets away as it sometimes happens that an immediate replacement cannot be found and the old gasket is then very useful as a template. Hang up the old gaskets as they are

removed on a suitable hook or nail. 8 Wherever possible, install nuts, bolts and washers finger-tight from wherever they were removed. This helps avoid later loss and muddle. If they cannot be installed then lay them out in such a fashion that it is clear from where they came. 9 all

It is

recommended that if a major overhaul components such as the emission

ancillary

is

being carried out that

control

equipment (see

Chapter 3), the fuel pump, distributor and alternator, together with the water pump, are first removed from the engine as described in the appropriate Chapter of this manual.

Part 2 - In-line engines 8

Cylinder head - removal If

drain the cooling

2 3 If

Remove

the manifold assembly complete with carburetor. Extract the bolts from the rocker cover and then remove the cover. the rocker cover is stuck tight, tap the front end of it with a rubber

mallet.

Unscrew each of the rocker arm nuts in sequence and remove the rocker arm ball, rocker arm and pushrod. Keep the components together. The best way to do this is to sub-divide a box or tray with the divisions numbered 1 to 12, number 1 being at the front end of the 4

engine.

6

Disconnect the radiator upper hose. Disconnect the ground strap from the cylinder head.

7

Unscrew

5

block.

If it

is

the cylinder

stuck

tight,

head bolts and

tap

it

lift

the cylinder head from the hammer but use a

sharply with a heavy

block of hardwood as an insulator. Remove and discard the cylinder head gasket. 8

1.10 Removing the torsional damper (Sec 10)

1

Crankshaft torsional damper - removal

1

If

the engine is

still in

position in the vehicle, drain the cooling

system and remove the radiator and drivebelts. Unscrew and remove the bolts which secure the crakshaft 2 Pull off the

pulley.

crankshaft pulley.

problem to prevent the crankshaft turning when the pulley jam the flywheel starter ring gear with a large screwdriver or cold chisel inserted either through the bellhousing cover-plate aperture, or through the hole left when the starter motor is removed. 4 The torsional damper should now be removed using the special 3

If it is

a

bolts are being unscrewed,

J-23523 or a three-legged damper (Fig. 1.10).

tool

11

the engine is in position in the vehicle, disconnect the battery, system and disconnect all hoses, controls and wires from the cylinder head. 1

Fig.

puller

engaged

in

the cut-outs of the

Timing gear and camshaft- removal

1 Remove the crankshaft torsional damper as described in the preceding Section. 2 Unscrew and remove the two screws which hold the oil pan to the timing cover. Unscrew and remove the screws which hold the timing cover to 3

the front face of the engine. If the oil pan is still in position then the oil pan front flange gasket should be cut through flush (on both sides)- with the cylinder block. If the oil pan has been removed, or is going to be removed, then the oil

4

pan gasket can be destroyed by pulling the timing cover forward. Remove the timing cover and gasket. 5 Drive out and discard the cover oil seal. 6 Unbolt and remove the pushrod covers from the side of the engine 7 and extract the valve lifters. Keep them in their original order, together with the other valve components, in the sub-divided box. Make sure that the fuel pump was removed at an earlier stage (see 8 Section 7) and then turn the crankshaft until the timing marks on the timing gears are in alignment. By inserting a socket wrench through the holes in the larger 9 gearwheel, the camshaft thrust plate bolts can now be unscrewed.

10

Pull the

camshaft and gear from the engine out of the front of the camshaft bearings as the lobes of

block. Take care not to damage the the cams pass through them.

9

Cylinder head - dismantling

Using a suitable valve spring compressor, compress each spring in removed. Release the compressor and remove the spring cap or rotator, shield (where applicable), spring and damper, then remove the oil seals and spring shims. 2 Remove the valves and place them in the box in their proper sequence with their associated pushrods etc. (see previous Section). Unscrew and remove each spark plug. 3

1 If the camshaft gear must be removed, then a press will be required and in consequence this job should be left to your dealer.

1

turn to permit the locks to be

12

Oil

pan and

oil

If the engine 1 drain the engine

cover-plate.

pump - removal

position in the vehicle, disconnect the battery, starter motor and flywheel housing Disconnect the engine front mountings and raise the is in

oil,

remove the

Chapter

1

Engine

25

engine using a hoist, or with a jack placed under the crankshaft torsional damper. Unscrew and remove the oil pan bolts and remove the oil pan. 2 Unscrew and remove the two flange mounting bolts from the oil 3

pump. 4 Unscrew and remove the

bolt

position and then withdraw the screen.

1

oil

which secures the pick-up pipe in pipe complete with filter

pump and

3 Piston/connecting rod assemblies - removal

If the engine is still in position in the vehicle, remove the cylinder 1 head, oil pan and oil pump as described in earlier Sections of this Chapter. Feel round the tops of the cylinder bores. If a distinct wear ridge is 2 felt, then this must be carefully scraped away before any attempt is made to push the pistons out of the top of the cylinder block. Check that each connecting rod big-end bearing cap is numbered 3 1 to 6 from the front of the engine, with a corresponding number on the connecting rod at an adjacent point. If these numbers are not visible, dot punch both caps and rods. Note also to which side the bumper faces. Although the notch in the piston crown faces the front of the engine, and so will determine which way round the connecting rod is located, this may not be very helpful if new components are installed or if the piston is removed from the connecting rod before

marking

Fig. 1.11 Cutting the oil

pan front flange gasket (Sec

1 1

it.

4 Unscrew and remove the nuts from the connecting rod caps, and remove the caps. If the original shell bearings are to be used again, make sure that they are kept with their respective caps by taping them together.

Using the wooden handle of a hammer, tap the piston/connecting 5 rod assemblies out of the top of the cylinder block. As each assembly is removed, clean the piston crown and check that it bears the correct cylinder sequence number. If not, mark it, unless the pistons are not to be removed from their connecting rods, or if new pistons are to be fitted.

6 To remove all six pistons, the crankshaft will have to be rotated in order to bring some of the cap nuts into a suitable position for removal. 7 If the shell bearings are to be used again, retain the rod bearings with their respective rods in a similar way to those for the caps. 8 Piston rings can be removed by slipping two or three old feeler blades behind the top ring and removing it using a twisting motion. The feeler blades will prevent the lower rings dropping into the higher empty grooves from which the rings have already been removed. 9 The piston pins are an interference fit in the connecting rods and removal should be left to your dealer (see Section 1 9).

14 Crankshaft and main bearings - removal

THRUST PLATE

With the connecting rod/piston assemblies removed, as described the preceding Section, remove the clutch by unbolting the clutch pressure plate cover and extracting the driven plate. Unbolt and remove the flywheel (or flexplate on automatic 2 1

SCREWS

in

Fig.

1

.12 Location of the timing

marks and the

thrust plate

(Sec 11)

screws

transmission). Check that the main bearing caps are numbered in sequence from 3 the front of the engine, and also that they indicate which way round they are fitted by a directional arrow. If such marks are indistinct, remark the caps and their adjacent crankshaft webs with dots by using a

punch. Unbolt each main bearing cap and remove it, keeping the bearing shell together with its cap if the shells are to be used again. Lift the crankshaft from the crankcase. 5 6 Extract the half shells from the crankcase, keeping them identified in respect of position if they are to be used again. The shell bearings used on number 7 main bearing position incorporate thrust flanges to control crankshaft endfloat. 7 If necessary, the gear can be drawn off the front end of the crank-

4

shaft with a suitable puller (Fig. 1.13).

1

Fig.

5 Lubrication system

1.13 Removing the crankshaft gear (Sec 14) Engine lubrication is provided by a gear-type oil pump which is 1 driven by an extension of the distributor shaft, which itself is driven by

Chapter

Engine

1

27

on the camshaft. pressure lubrication is provided through a full-flow filter. The main oil gallery supplies oil through drilled passages to the camshaft and crankshaft bearings, also to the hydraulic type valve lifters. The rocker arms are fed through hollow pushrods.

a helical gear

2

1

Full

6 Examination and renovation - general

With the engine completely stripped, clean every component 1 (except the cylinder bores) in kerosene and dry off. Make sure that all oilways are then thoroughly cleaned out to remove all trace of kerosene. Pay particular attention to the engine block. Scrape off old pieces 2 of gasket or jointing compound, probe the oilways and waterways, examine the casting for cracks, and check the freeze plugs for security. Never clean the cylinder bores with gasoline or kerosene but 3 use hot water and detergent and when dry, apply clean engine oil.

The

4

individual

components should be

carefully

checked

for

wear

or

distortion, as described in the following Sections.

1

7 Crankshaft and bearings - examination and renovation

1

7.4 Connecting rod big-end details

1 Examine the crankpin and main journal surfaces for scoring, scratches or corrosion. If evident, then the crankshaft will have to be reground professionally. Using a micrometer, test each journal and crankpin at several 2 different points for ovality. If this is found to be more than 0001 inch then the crankshaft must be reground. Undersize bearings are available to suit the recommended reground diameter, and normally your Chevrolet dealer will supply the correct matching bearings with the reconditioned crankshaft. 3 After a high mileage, the main bearings and the connecting rod bearings may have worn to give an excessive running clearance. The correct running clearance for the different journals is given in the

Specifications.

best checked using a proprietary product such as refitted the original bearings and caps and tightened the cap bolts to the torque settings specified in Specifications. Never attempt to correct excessive running clearances by filing the caps. Always fit new shell bearings, having first checked the crankshaft journals and crankpins for ovality and to establish

The clearance

'Plastigage',

is

having

their diameters are of standard or reground sizes. Do not turn the crankshaft while the 'Plastigage' material is in position. 4 Checking the connecting rod bearings is carried out in a similar manner to that described for the main bearings (photo). The correct running clearance is given in the Specifications.

whether

5 The crankshaft endplay should be checked by forcing the crankshaft to the extreme front position, then using a feeler gauge at the front end of the rear main bearing. Refer to the Specifications for the permissible clearance (Fig. 1.15).

The connecting rod side clearance should be measured with gauge between the connecting rod caps. If the side clearance outside the specified tolerance renew the rod assembly (Fig. 1.16). 6

a

feeler

is

Fig.

7 Finally check the condition of the pilot (spigot) bearing in the center of the crankshaft rear flange. If it is worn or cracked, extract it

and

1

install a

new one

1.15 Measuring crankshaft endplay (Sec

1

7)

(photo).

8 Cylinder block - examination and renovation

1 The cylinder bores must be examined for taper, ovality, scoring and scratches. Start by carefully examining the top of the bores. If they are worn, a ridge will be found on the thrust side. The bottom of the ridge marks the upper limit of piston ring travel and the thickness of

the ridge will be a guide to the amount of bore wear. 2 Another indication of cylinder bore wear will be evident before engine dismantling takes place by the emission of blue smoke from the

exhaust and the frequent need for topping-up the engine oil. 3 Using an internal type dial gauge, measure each bore at three different points in both the thrust and axial directions. Carry out this operation near the top of the bore and then near the bottom of the bore. From the readings obtained, establish the out-of-round and the taper which must not exceed the values given in the Specifications. 4 Where the cylinder bores are worn beyond the permitted tolerance

Fig.

1.16 Measuring connecting rod side clearance (Sec 17)

Chapter

28

17.7 Crankshaft rear flange spigot bearing

19.1

A

Piston

(oil

1

Engine

control) ring

then they must be honed or bored to the next oversize. This is a specialist operation and must be carried out in a properly equipped workshop. New pistons are available in standard and oversizes and they will 5 be supplied to match the new bore diameters of the cylinder block. Keep each piston identified in respect of its cylinder. The maximum permissible piston to bore clearance is given in the Specifications.

1

rail

9.1

B Removing

oil

control piston ring

top ring should be stepped so as to clear the ridge left in the cylinder bore, above the previous top ring. If a normal but oversize new ring is used it will hit the ridge and break, because the new ring will not have worn in the same way as the old, which will have worn in unison with the ridge. 5 Both compression rings are marked to indicate their top surfaces and the upper compression ring is chromium plated or treated with a molybdenum compound. The oil control ring is of three section construction.

1

9 Pistons, piston pins and rings - servicing

6

Before installing the compression rings, insert each one in turn, Push the ring squarely down the bore

into its respective cylinder bore.

Note: Refer to Section 23 for decarbonising. 1 Each ring should be sprung open only just sufficiently to permit to ride over the lands of the piston body (photos).

Once

groove, it is helpful to use two or three old feeler blades and slip them under the ring at equidistant points. Using a twisting motion, this method of removal will prevent the 3 ring dropping into an empty groove as it is being removed from the 2

a ring

is

out of

its

piston.

4

the old pistons are to be re-installed, carefully remove the piston and then thoroughly clean them. Take particular care to clean out the piston ring grooves. At the same time do not scratch the aluminum in any way. If new rings are to be installed to the old pistons then the If

rings

Fig.

^

1

.17

Measuring a

ring

endgap (Sec 19)

j inch below its normal upper travel limit. Now measure the endgap with a feeler blade and compare the gap with that

to a position about it

in the Specifications. Carefully grind the endfaces of the rings if necessary to adjust the gap. 7 Now check the fit of the piston rings in their grooves, removing any burrs which might cause them to stick. 8 Using a feeler blade, check the ring to groove clearance and compare the clearances with those given in the Specifications. Refitting piston rings to the piston is a reversal of the removal 9 method but ensure that the endgaps of the rings are positioned as indicated to prevent gas blow-by (Fig. 1.19). 10 The piston pins are a press fit and are only available as matched

given

Fig.

1.18 Measuring piston ring groove clearance (Sec 19)

Chapter

1

Engine

29

sets together with the pistons. 11 In order to remove a piston from the connecting rod, an arbor press will be required and this is usually a job best left to your Chevrolet dealer. The relationship of the piston to connecting rod is

ENGINE FRONT

very important.

20 Camshaft and bearings - examination and renovation Check all the cam lobes for wear, chipping and scoring. 1 Check the teeth of the cam gearwheel for worn or chipped teeth. 2 Where any faults are observed, the camshaft will have to be 3 renewed. Removal of the gearwheel is explained in Section 1 1 4 If the camshaft bearings are worn, renewal is best left to your dealer although they can be removed and new ones installed using a long bolt, nut, washer and distance pieces to draw the bearings out of, or into, their crankcase seats. When drawing new bearings into position, make sure that the oil 5 hole in the bearing is in alignment with the one in the crankcase. The plug at the rear of the camshaft must be removed from the cylinder block in order to renew the camshaft bearings. Install a new plug on Fig.

1.19 Piston ring gap location diagram (Sec

1

9)

completion, flush with the rear face of the cylinder block.

A

Oil control ring minimum spacing gap B Oil control ring rail gaps C 2nd compression ring gap

D

Top compression ring gap

21

pump -

Oil

overhaul

Note Oil pump gears and the body are not serviced separately. If wear damage is evident on the gears or body, the complete pump assembly must be renewed. :

or

1 Remove the pump cover retaining screws and the pump cover. Index mark the gearteeth to permit reassembly in the same position

(photo).

2 3

Remove Remove

the idler gear, drivegear and shaft from the body. the pressure regulator valve retaining pin, the regulator

valve and the related parts.

Fig.

1

.20 Extracting a camshaft bearing (Sec 20)

Fig.

7

2 21.1 Oil

pump

with cover removed

3 4 5

1

.21

The component parts

Pressure regulator valve Pressure regulator spring Retaining pin Retaining screws Pump cover

6

of the

oil

pump

(Sec 21

Cover gasket gear Drive gear and shaft

7

Idler

8 9

Pump body

10 Pickup screen and pipe

Chapter

30 4

If necessary, the pick-up screen and pipe assembly can be extracted from the pump body. Wash all the parts in kerosene or gasoline, and thoroughly dry 5 them. Inspect the body for cracks, wear or other damage. Similarly inspect the gears.

6

for looseness in the pump body, and the cover for wear that would permit oil leakage past

Check the drivegear shaft

inside of the

pump

the ends of the gears.

Inspect the pick-up screen and pipe assembly for 7 screen, pipe or relief grommet.

damage

to the

Apply a gasket sealant to the end of the pipe (pick-up screen and pipe assembly) and tap it into the pump body taking care that no damage occurs. If the original press fit cannot be obtained a new

8

assembly must be used to prevent sure that the final setting of the face of the oil pan.

air leaks

filter

and

screen

is

loss of pressure. parallel to the

Make

bottom

the pressure regulator valve and related parts. the drivegear and shaft in the pump body, followed by the idler gear, with the smooth side towards the pump cover opening.

9

Install

10

Install

Lubricate the parts with engine oil. 1 Install the cover and tighten the screws to the specified torque. Turn the driveshaft to ensure that the pump operates freely. 1

22

Oil filter

-renewal

Engine

1

freed from any carbon deposits. Wash the combustion spaces and ports down with gasoline and scrape the cylinder head surface free of

any foreign matter with the side of a steel rule, or a similar article. Clean the pistons and top of the cylinder bores. If the pistons are still in the block then it is essential that great care is taken to ensure that no carbon gets into the cylinder bores as this could scratch the cylinder walls or cause damage to the piston and rings. To ensure this does not happen, first turn the crankshaft so that two of the pistons are at the top of their bores. Stuff rag into the other bores or seal them off with paper and masking tape. The waterways should also be covered with small pieces of masking tape to prevent particles of carbon entering the cooling system and damaging the water pump. Press a little grease into the gap between the cylinder walls and 3 the two pistons which are to be worked on. 4 With a blunt scraper carefully scrape away the carbon from the piston crown, taking great care not to scratch the aluminum. Also scrape away the carbon from the surrounding lip of the cylinder wall. When all carbon has been removed, scrape away the grease which will now be contaminated with carbon particles, taking care not to press any into the bores. To assist prevention of carbon build-up the piston crown can be polished with a metal polishing compound but on no account allow this to seep down the cylinder bore or it will congeal in the ring grooves and cause the rings to seize. 5 Rotate the crankshaft until the next two pistons are at the top of their bores. Repeat the foregoing operation until all cylinders are 2

decarbonised.

On some

engines the oil filter may be of the separate disposable internal element type. To renew this type of filter element, unscrew the through bolt and 2 draw the filter body downward. Be prepared for some loss of engine 1

earlier type

oil.

Discard the internal element and wipe out the interior of the new rubber sealing ring and washers supplied with the new element. Refit the components in the reverse order to removal but do not 4 overtighten the through bolt.

Examination 6 Inspect the cylinder head for cracks in the exhaust ports and bustion chambers, or external cracks into the water chambers. 7 Inspect the rocker arm studs for wear and damage.

com-

3

casing. Install the

On

other engines, the filter is of the disposable cartridge type. Unscrew the oil filter with a suitable wrench. Apply grease to the sealing rubber gasket on the new filter and 6 screw it into position using hand pressure only. Run the engine for a few minutes and check for leaks. When the 7 oil has had time to settle, after the engine has been switched off, check the level and top-up to make up for the oil absorbed by the new filter. 5

all

Servicing 8

If

the rocker

damaged

arm studs are loose

in

threads, then they should be

the cylinder head or have fitting oversize

renewed by

reaming the holes to accept them and this is your dealer. It is important that the correct fit is obtained for the new studs. Refer to the next two Sections for details of valve renovation.

studs, but this will require

job best interference

a

9

to

left

24 Valves and

valve seats - examination and renovation

23 Cylinder head - decarbonising, examination and servicing

Examine the heads of the valves for pitting and burning, especially heads of the exhaust valves. The valve seatings should be examined at the same time. If the pitting on valve and seat is very slight the marks can be removed by grinding the seats and valves together with coarse, and then fine, valve grinding paste.

Decarbonising

2

This can be carried out with the engine either in or out of the car. With the cylinder head off, carefully remove with a blunt scraper or wire brush all traces of carbon deposits from the combustion spaces and the ports. The valve head stems and valve guides should also be

carborundum paste on the seat face and apply a suction grinder tool to the valve head. With a semi-rotary motion, grind the valve head to its

1

the

1

Valve grinding

is

carried out as follows:

Smear

a trace of

coarse

seat, lifting the valve occasionally to redistribute the grinding paste.

When

a dull matt even surface finish is produced on both the valve seat and the valve, wipe off the paste and repeat the process with fine carborundum paste, lifting and turning the valve to redistribute the paste as before. A light spring placed under the valve head will greatly

When a smooth unbroken ring of light grey matt produced, on both valve and valve seat faces, the grinding operation is completed. Where the valve or seat shows signs of bad pitting or burning, 3 then the valve should be refaced by your dealer and the seat recut. If ease

finish

this operation. is

the refacing of the valve will reduce the edge of the valve head to less than that given in the Specifications, renew the valve. Scrape away all carbon from the valve head and the valve stem. 4 Carefully clean away every trace of grinding compound, taking great care to leave none in the ports or in the valve guides. Clean the valves and valve seats with a kerosene soaked rag then with a clean rag. and finally, if an air line is available, blow the valves, valves guides and

valve ports clean.

THROW-AWAY Fig.

1.22 Oil

filter (earlier

vehicles) (Sec 22)

Fig.

1.23 Oil

TYPE

filter (later

vehicles) (Sec 22)

25 Valve guides and springs - examination and renovation Thoroughly clean out each valve guide and then insert the 1 appropriate valve. Using a dial gauge test the movement of the valve (at 90° to the centerline of the cylinder head) making sure that the

Chapter valve

2

held from its seat by about £ inch. the stem clearance exceeds that given

is

the Specifications it will be necessary to ream the valve guide and install oversize valve stems. Check the availability with your Chevrolet dealer or engine If

in

repair specialist for this servicing operation.

Each valve spring and damper should be compared with the and renewed if it is shorter. In any event it is recommended that new springs and dampers are installed if the engine has covered more than 30 000 miles since they were new.

Engine

1

body over the spring and plunger, aligning the oil feed holes in the plunger and lifter body. 10 Fill the assembly with SAE 10 oil then insert the end of a ^ inch drift pin into the plunger and press down solid to align the oil feed holes in the lifter body and plunger assembly. Do not force or attempt

3

to

specified free-length

1

26 Flywheel

(or

f

lexplate)

and starter

ring gear

31

pump

the plunger.

Insert a

down

inch drift pin through both ,-j against the lifter spring tension.

oil

holes to hold the plunger

- examination

The starter ring gear is attached to the outer edge of the flywheel 1 (manual transmission) or the flexplate (automatic transmission). If the gear teeth are chipped or broken, renew the flywheel or flexplate complete.

Examine the driven plate contact surface of the flywheel. If deep scoring or tiny cracks are visible (due to overheating), then renew the flywheel. 2

3

the flexplate

If

bolt

holes appear elongated, then renew the

flexplate.

27 Valve

lifters

- dismantling, cleaning and reassembly

1 The valve lifters are of the hydraulic type and are designed to reduce engine valve noise, and to obviate the need for precise valve clearance adjustment. To dismantle, hold down the plunger with a pushrod and remove 2 the rod seat retainer with a small screwdriver. Remove the pushrod seat and metering valve (Fig. 1 .24). 3 Remove the plunger, ball check valve assembly and plunger 4

spring.

5 Remove the ball check valve and spring by prying the ball retainer loose from the plunger with the blade of a small screwdriver. Thoroughly clean all the parts and inspect for wear or damage. If 6 any parts are unserviceable the complete lifter must be renewed. Where wear is present, also inspect the mating surfaces (eg the camshaft lobe, cylinder block lifter bore, pushrod end) and renew or

t,

repair the appropriate parts.

7

To assemble, place the check

ball on the small hole in the bottom on the seat in the ball retainer then so that the spring rests on the ball.

of the plunger. Insert the spring

place the retainer over the ball Carefully press the retainer into position in the plunger with the blade of a small screwdriver. 9 Place the plunger spring over the ball retainer and slide the lifter

Fig.

1

.25 Installing a check valve ball (Sec 27)

8

Fig.

1

.24 The /

2 3 4 5

component

parts of the hydraulic valve

Irfter

Body

6

Pushrod seat retainer

Pushrod seat Metering valve Check ball Check ball plunger

7

Plunger

8 9

Plunger spring

Check

ball spring

(Sec 27)

Fig.

1

.26 Assembling a hydraulic valve

lifter

(Sec 27)

Chapter

32

1 1

Remove

2 3

the £ inch pin and refill the lifter with the metering valve and pushrod seat.

Install

SAE

1

1

Engine

APPLY SEALANT TO SHADED AREAS ONLY

oil.

14 Install the pushrod seat retainer, press down on the pushrod seat and extract the ^ inch drift-pin from the oil holes. The lifter is now assembled, charged with oil and ready for use. 1 5 16 Before installing the lifters coat their bottom surfaces with Molykote or similar anti-friction compound.

28 Engine reassembly- general To ensure maximum life with minimum trouble from a rebuilt 1 engine, not only must everything be correctly assembled, but everything must be spotlessly clean; all the oilways must be clear, locking washers and spring washers must always be installed where indicated, and all bearing and other working surfaces must be thoroughly lubricated during assembly. Before assembly begins, renew any bolts or studs the threads of 2

which are

ir

any way damaged.

Apart from your normal tools, a supply of clean rag, an oil can 3 with engine oil, a supply of assorted spring washers, a set of gaskets, and a torque wrench, should be collected together.

filled

new

Fig.

29 Crankshaft,

main bearings, piston/connecting flywheel (or flexplate) - reassembly and installation If

1

the

the gear

new one

2

was removed from

1

.27 Crankcase

oil

seal sealant diagram (Sec 29)

and

*

the front end of the crankshaft, tap

into position using a piece of tubing as a drift.

the rear

Install

rods

oil

seal

half-sections into the

grooves

in

the

crankcase and in the rear bearing cap. Position the lip of the seal towards the front of the engine. If the seal has two lips, install so that the lip and helix are towards the front of the engine. Insert the shell bearings into the crankcase recess and the main 3 bearing caps. If the original shells are being used, make sure that they are returned to their original positions. Note that the flanged (thrust control) shells are located at No 7 main bearing position. Oil the bearing shells liberally and lower the crankshaft carefully 4

/

into position.

Apply a little sealant to the end surfaces of the crankcase oil seal and then install the main bearing caps in their correct sequence, with their directional arrows pointing towards the front of 5

section,

the engine.

Tighten the main bearing cap bolts to the specified torque with the 6 exception of the rear (No 7) one. The bolts for this cap should only be tightened to 1 Ibf ft at this stage. 7 Now tap the crankshaft first rearward and then fully forward to line up the rear bearing and crankshaft thrust surfaces. Tighten all main bearing cap bolts to the specified torque.

8 but

The crankshaft endplay will probably already have been checked not, do it now as described in Section 1 7. With the pistons assembled to the connecting rods and fitted with

if

9

Fig.

1

.28 Installing a piston/connecting rod assembly (Sec 29)

described in Section 19, they should now be installed into the cylinder block. Set the block on its side for this opera-

their piston

rings, as

16 Screw on and tighten the connecting rod nuts to the specified

tion.

10 Locate the

connecting rod and cap recess. If the original shells are being used, see that they are returned to their shell bearings in the

original locations. 1

1

Lightly coat the cylinder bores, pistons

also apply

some

oil

and rings with engine

oil;

to the surfaces of the bearing shells.

torque.

17 Repeat the operations on the remaining piston/connecting rod assemblies. The crankshaft will probably need to be turned periodically to enable the various connecting rods to be engaged with their crankpins.

12 Check that the piston ring endgaps are correctly positioned as described in Section 19. 13 Apply a piston ring clamp to the first piston and then insert the connecting rod into its correct bore (from which is was removed, or if new components are being used, into the bore to which the piston was selectively matched). Make sure that the front-facing notch on the top

18 Install the flywheel (manual transmission) to the crankshaft mounting flange so that its locating dowel engages correctly. Screw in the bolts and tighten them to the specified torque. To prevent the flywheel turning while the bolts are tightened, jam the crankshaft web.

is facing forward and that the base of the piston ring compressor is standing square on the top of the cylinder block. 14 Place the end of a wooden hammer handle against the top of the piston and strike the head of the hammer with the hand. This will send the piston with its compressed rings into the bore (Fig. 1 .28). 1 5 Push the piston carefully down until the big-end of the connecting rod can be engaged with its crankpin on the crankshaft. Install the correct cap with its shell bearing, making sure that it is in the right way round with the cap sequence number adjacent to the number on the

the transmission.

connecting rod.

stick

of the piston

19 When installing the flexplate (automatic transmission), make sure that the torque converter mounting pads on the flexplate are towards

30

Oil

pump and

oil

pan - installation

Install the oil pump into the crankcase using a new gasket. Tighten 1 the screws to the specified torque. Insert and tighten the oil pick-up tube screw. 2 Throughly clean all the crankcase and oil pan mating surfaces and 3

new

side gaskets into position on the crankcase flanges.

Chapter new

4

Fit

5

Offer up the

a

gasket onto the rear main bearing cap. oil pan and tighten all bolts in a diagonal sequence to

the specified torque.

Engine

1

33

bottoms against the crankshaft gear. Tighten the timing cover bolts and front two 9 cover bolts.

oil

pan-to-timing

Bolt on the drivebelt pulley.

1

Lubricate the valve lifters and insert them into position with the engine standing upright on its oil pan. Using new gaskets, install the engine pushrod side covers. 1 2 1

31

Timing gear and camshaft -

installation

Oil the camshaft bearings and then pass the camshaft, complete 1 with gearwheel, into the crankcase. Turn the crankshaft (by means of a wrench on one of the flywheel 2 bolts) until the timing marks on the crankshaft and camshaft gears are in alignment and on an imaginary line drawn through the centers of the crankshaft and camshaft. The camshaft will have to be pulled partly

out, turned

and re-inserted to achieve

this.

Fit the camshaft thrust plate. Screw in the plate retaining bolts 3 through the holes in the camshaft gear and tighten them to the specified torque. Fit a new oil seal to the timing cover so that the open end of the 4 seal faces inward. Support the timing cover so that it is not bent when the seal is tapped into position. Engage a new strip seal at the lower edge of the timing cover so 5

go into the holes provided in the cover. the timing cover was removed without disturbing the oil pan (see Section 1 1) then a new section must now be cut from a gasket set, and located on the front ends of the oil pan flanges. Also in this case, place a bead of silicone jointing compound at either side of the joint to make a good seal when the timing cover is installed (Fig. 1 .29). 7 Install the front timing cover, but only insert the cover screws and oil pan-to-cover screws finger tight until the crankshaft torsional damper has been installed; this will have the effect of centralising the that the tips

6

If

cover round the crankshaft. Install the torsional damper to the front end of the crankshaft 8 using a piece of tubing as a drift, but take care not to separate the damper assembly by using too much force. Drive it home until it

32 Cylinder head - reassembly and Insert the 1 valve stem.

valve into the seat into which

6 Lay a new gasket on top of the block so that the gasket bead is uppermost. 7 Lower the cylinder head into position over the dowel pins and onto the gasket.

Screw

8

fully to

in the cylinder head bolts finger tight and then tighten them the specified torque wrench settings, in stages and in the

sequence shown (Fig. 1.31). Install the pushrods in their 9 they engage in the lifter sockets. 1

original

1 )

sequence making sure that

rocker arms, bolts and nuts. Tighten the rocker arm nuts the pushrod (up and down movement) is eliminated. The valves must be finally adjusted as described in Section 34 Install the

until

any lash

now

in

or

33 Engine

.29 Cutting a timing cover gasket (Sec 31

Oil the

•

when

the engine has been installed

ancillary

components -

Install

in

the vehicle.

installation

FROM NEW SEAL 1

was ground.

Using the valve spring compressor, compress the spring, install 3 the oil seal into the lower groove in the valve stem, and then install the valve locks. Release the compressor gently so that the locks engage positively in the upper groove in the valve stem. 4 Repeat the operation on all the remaining valves making sure that they are fitted into their correct valve seats. Thoroughly clean the mating surfaces of the head and block, and 5 clean out the bolt holes.

1

Fig.

it

Fit the valve spring shim, valve spring, damper (not on 250 cu in 2 engines), valve shield, cap and rotator (exhaust valves only) (Fig. 1 .30).

either

CUT THIS PORTION

first

installation

pump,

the distributor, clutch, fuel

alternator

and water

pump

as described in the appropriate Chapters of this manual. 2 The manifolds and carburetor can also be fitted at this time preferred, not until the engine is installed.

or,

if

34 Valve adjustment 1 The valves should be adjusted after major overhaul, or whenever the cylinder head bolts have been tightened after head removal and

installation.

2

Mark the

distributor

opposite the entry of No

1

body with a piece of chalk at the positions and No 6 plug wire entries to the distributor

cap.

3 4

Remove

the distributor cap and put

it

to

one

side.

Turn the crankshaft until the rotor in the distributor is in alignment with the No 1 chalk mark. Adjust the following valves counting from the front of the engine: 5 Inlet valves of cylinders

Exhaust valves of cylinders

1-2-4 1-3-5

Back off the rocker adjuster nut until lash can be felt at the pushrod, and then tighten the nut until all lash disappears. Now turn down the adjuster nut one full turn. 7 Turn the crankshaft until the distributor rotor is in alignment with the No 6 chalk mark. 6

*

Fig.

1

NOT USED ON

230

& 250 CU.

IN. L6

.30 Exploded view of the valve retaining (Sec 32)

components

Fig.

1

.31

The correct cylinder head bolt tightening sequence (Sec 32)

Chapter

34

1

Engine

Adjust the following valves, again counting from the front of the

8

engine: Inlet valves of cylinders

Exhaust valves of cylinders 9

Install

1

Install

the rocker cover, using a the distributor cap.

35 Engine

3-5-6 2-4-6 new gasket

to transmission reconnection

if

necessary.

and engine

installation

Refer to the relevant earlier Sections of this Chapter.

1

36 Engine

start-up after major repair or overhaul

the cooling system (refer to Chapter 2). the crankcase with the correct grade and quantity of engine oil. If a new camshaft or valve lifters have been installed, an additive containing EP lube, such as EOS, should be added to the crankcase oil for the break-in period. 3 Make a final check to ensure that all cables and pipes have been connected and that no tools or rags have been left in the engine compartment. 4 Start the engine and check for water and oil leaks. Note: The engine may not start readily since there may be condensation inside; also it may take a little while for the fuel pump to deliver fuel to the 1

Refill

2

Refill

Fig.

.32

1

Removing the crankshaft rear oil seal from the main bearing cap (Sec 37)

carburetor.

Check that the instruments are indicating satisfactory readings. Run the vehicle until normal engine operating temperature

5

6

is

reached. 7 Check the carburetor and emission control settings, as described in

Chapter

8 9

new

3.

Check the ignition timing (Chapter 4). Top-up the engine oil level to make up filter

for the oil

absorbed by the

element.

between 500 and 1000 miles and with the all engine nuts and bolts, the cylinder head bolts.

10 Run the vehicle

for

engine cold, check the torque settings of particularly

1 Re-check the valve adjustment head bolts.

37

Oil seals

after

- renewal with engine

in

having tightened the cylinder

vehicle Fig.

1 The timing cover oil seal can be renewed after first removing the crankshaft pulley and torsional damper. Pry out the defective seal and drive in a new one. 2 3 Install the damper and pulley. 4 The crankshaft rear oil seals may be renewed if the oil pan and oil pump are first removed and the rear main bearing cap withdrawn. 5 Pry out the cap section of the seal with a small screwdriver and

insert the

new one.

6 The upper section of the seal can be removed if it is first tapped round with a small punch, until its end can be gripped with a pair of pliers (Fig.

7

1

new upper

Insert the

shaft at the

same

seal section (well oiled) by pressing

it

into

front of the engine. Turning the cranktime as the seal is pressed will help to locate it. sealant to the end faces of the seals, before bolting

lip

towards the

8 Apply a little up the main bearing cap and tightening to the specified torque. 9 Install the oil pump and oil pan, and refill with the correct grade

and quantity of

oil.

in

Undo and remove No

same method

of the crankshaft

main bearing cap and remove the

shell

to

roll

it

into position.

the new shell into the bearing cap and tighten the bolts to the specified torque. Install

7 Repeat the foregoing operations on all other main bearings except the rear one. As the journal at this position has no oil hole, tap out the flanged upper shell bearing with a small punch, until the opposite end can be gripped with a pair of pliers, as described for the oil seal in the

preceding Section (Fig. 1.34). Install the new shell in a similar manner. 8 Install the oil

39 Engine Renewal

seal

pump and

oil

pan, and

refill

with

oil.

vehicle

main bearing shells can be carried out in the following way. without having to remove the engine from the vehicle. However, the need for new bearings will usually be the result of lack of oil or general overall wear, and the reason for renewal should first be established; also, whether the crankshaft itself and other engine internal components require attention at the same time. It is no good fitting new bearing shells to a worn crankshaft. 2 Remove the oil pan, the oil pump and the spark plugs. 1

1

oil

4 To remove the upper shell, insert a cotter pin into the oil hole in the crankshaft journal. Turn the crankshaftln a clockwise direction and the head of the cotter pin will roll the shell out of its recess in 'he crankcase. 5 Installation of the new upper shell can be carried out using the

9

38 Main bearings - renewal with engine

half of the crankshaft rear (Sec 37)

Removing the upper

.33

bearing.

6

.33).

position with the

3

1

front and rear

mountings - renewal with engine

in

vehicle

The

mountings can be renewed if the engine is supported pan with a jack, and a block of wood as an insulator. Do not raise the engine any more than is necessary, or damage to the engine controls, hoses or wires may result. The engine rear mountings can be removed if the transmission is 2 supported on a jack and the crossmember removed. 1

front

under the

oil

Chapter

Engine

1

35

emission control and crankcase ventilation hoses. Remove the distributor cap and mark the distributor body and 3 rotor position (where applicable). Remove the distributor clamp and distributor, then position the cap rearwards, clear of the manifold. 4 Remove the alternator upper bracket, and the coil and its bracket. Remove the manifold to head attaching bolts, and lift off the 5 manifold complete with carburetor. Remove the carburetor (and choke tube assembly, where applic6 able), the water outlet and thermostat heater hose adapter, choke coil and EGR valve, if the manifold is to be removed.

Exhaust manifold Remove the air injection 7 to Chapter 3),

8

Remove

if

reactor (AIR) air manifold and tubes (refer

considered necessary.

the battery ground cable and the air cleaner pre-heater

air

stove.

Remove the manifold-to-exhaust flange nuts, then lower the pipe 9 assembly. Hang it from the frame to prevent undue loading. 10 Remove the end mounting bolts followed by the center ones and lift the manifold away from the engine.

Head assembly 1

If

the engine

is still in

position,

remove the appropriate crankcase

ventilation hoses.

Disconnect the wiring harness from the clips on the rocker covers retaining screws and lift off the covers. 13 If the engine is installed, drain the coolant from the cylinder block (refer to Chapter 2). 14 Working on each valve in turn, loosen the rocker arm nut until the rocker can be pivoted, then remove the pushrod and valve lifter. Place the pushrods and valve lifters in a rack so that they may be installed in the same location during engine assembly. 1 5 Remove the valve rocker arm nuts, balls and rocker arms. 16 Unscrew the cylinder head bolts, one turn at a time and remove them. 1 7 With the aid of an assistant lift the cylinder heads from the block. If they are stuck, do not attempt to lever them off, but tap upwards using a block of wood and a hammer at each end. Place the heads on a

12

remove the cover

Fig.

Part

1

.34 Removing the rear main bearing upper shell (Sec 38)

3- V8 engines

clean workbench for further dismantling.

40 Cylinder heads - removal Note: If the engine has been removed, ignore those operations, following paragraphs, which have already been carried out.

in

the

41 1

Inlet

manifold

Cylinder head - dismantling

Using

a suitable valve spring

compressor, compress each spring

1 Drain the radiator and remove the carburetor air cleaner. Disconnect the battery cables, upper radiator and heater hose at 2 the manifold, the accelerator linkage at the pedal, the fuel line at the carburetor, the coil and temperature sender switch wires, the power brake hose, the distributor spark advance hose and the appropriate

LOCKS--^^

"CAP SEAL

f£^ff- i^A ~_y

S^f- I 1

SHIELD—-.pal *

SPRING—CJP1 W DAMPER "JJ[J

ROTATOR

ON

A

-£

EXHAUST VALVE

Fig.

1

.35

Small V8

The components parts

in

compressor and remove the spring cap or rotator, shield (where applicable), spring and damper, then remove the oil seals and spring shims (Fig. 1 .35). 2 Remove the valves and place them in a rack in their proper sequence with their associated pushrods etc. Unscrew and remove each spark plug. 3 turn to permit the locks to be removed. Release the

of the valve retaining

mechanism (Sec 41 B

)

Mk IVV8

36

42

Chapter

Oil

If

pan and

the engine

ing preliminary

oil

pump - removal

is still in

43 Timing

position in the vehicle, carry out the followin paragraphs 1 thru 4.

work described

Disconnect the battery. Remove the fan shroud, disconnect the 1 exhaust pipes or cross-over pipes. Drain the engine oil and, where automatic transmission is fitted, remove the converter housing underpan and splash shield. Remove the starter motor. Turn the crankshaft until the timing mark on the torsional damper, 2 at the front

end of the crankshaft,

is

at the

6 o'clock position.

Remove both front engine mount through-bolts. Using suitable jacks and wooden blocks positioned beneath the torsional damper, raise the engine until 3 inch wooden spacers can be inserted at the engine mounts. Lower the engine onto the 3 inch

3 4

spacers.

Remove the oil pan retaining bolts and the oil pan. If stuck, tap it 5 sharply with a soft-faced mallet or cut around the joint with a thin sharp knife. Do not pry against the crankcase or irreparable distortion may occur. 6 7

Engine

1

Where applicable, remove the oil pan baffle. Remove the oil pump and screen assembly, and

the extension

shaft.

chain, sprockets

and camshaft - removal

the engine is still in the vehicle, remove the drivebelts, fan and Remove the fan shroud, drain the cooling system, and remove the radiator and the grille. Remove the cylinder heads, valve gear and If

pulley.

pushrods.

Remove the accessory 1 damper retaining bolt. 2 3

drive pulley, then

remove the

torsional

a suitable extractor, draw off the torsional damper. Refer to Chapter 2, and remove the water pump. Small V8: Unscrew the crankcase front cover attaching bolts, then

Using

4 remove the

cover.

Large or Mk IV V8: Remove the timing cover screws and pull the 5 cover slightly forward to enable the front seal of the oil pan to be cut either side of the cylinder block (this operation is only required if the oil pan is still in position and not intended to be removed) (Fig. 1.36).

Turn the crankshaft until the timing marks on the crankshaft and 6 camshaft sprockets are in alignment. 7 Remove the camshaft sprocket bolts, pull off the sprocket and

remove the timing chain. 8 The crankshaft sprocket can be removed,

if

necessary, using a

suitable puller.

9 Before removing the camshaft, withdraw the fuel pump pushrod and the valve lifters. Keep the latter in strict original order. 1 Withdraw the camshaft bearings as the lobes pass through them.

44

Pistons, connecting rods

and bearings - removal

1 Initially remove the cylinder heads, oil pan and oil pump, as described previously in this Chapter. 2 Ensure that identification marks are present on each connecting rod and bearing cap to enable them to be installed in their original positions. If no marks are present small punch indentations will be satisfactory (left-bank- 1, 3, 5, 7; right-bank -2, 4, 6, 8). Turn the crankshaft so that the relevant piston is at the lowest 3 point of its stroke. Place a piece of rag on top of the piston and then carefully remove the wear ridge from the top of the cylinder bore. Remove the rag and the metal scrapings. 4 Turn the crankshaft so that one piston is at the top of its stroke. Remove the connecting rod bearing cap. Push a piece of rubber or 5 plastic tubing onto each of the connecting rod studs to prevent them scratching the soft cylinder bores as the rods are removed. Push the piston/connecting rod assembly out of the top of the 6

cylinder block.

Repeat the operations on the remaining seven cylinders turning 7 the crankshaft as necessary, to gain access to the connecting rod cap bolts and to bring the piston to the bottom or top of its stroke as required.

45 Flywheel 1

(or flexplate)

- removal

To remove either component, simply unbolt

it

from the crankshaft

rear flange (photo).

2 in

If the flywheel must be removed while the engine is still in position the vehicle, the transmission must be withdrawn as described in

Chapter

6.

46 Crankshaft and main bearings - removal

&r\

The crankshaft can be removed only after the engine has been removed from the vehicle and completely dismantled as described in 1

the earlier Sections of this Chapter. Check that the main bearing caps are marked in respect of their 2 location in the crankcase (and their orientation), as carried out for the connecting rod bearing caps.

Unbolt the main bearing caps (keeping their shell bearings 3 together with their respective caps if they are to be used again).

Fig.

1

.37

Withdrawing the camshaft (Sec 43)

4

Lift

5

If

the crankshaft from the crankcase, with help from an assistant. the upper half shell bearings are to be removed and it is intended

to use them again, keep them identified with (but not interchanged with) their respective lower half shell bearings. Remove the two halves of the crankshaft rear oil seal. 6

Chapter

Engine

1

37

front of the engine) (photos).

Lubricate the seal lips with engine oil. Install the main bearing shells in the cylinder block and main 3 bearing caps, and lubricate the bearing surfaces with engine oil (photo). The rear shells incorporate the thrust flanges. 4 With the aid of an assistant, install the crankshaft, taking care not to damage the bearing surfaces (photo). Lubricate the crankshaft journals with engine oil.

2

Apply a thin coat of a brush-on sealant to the block rear seal end 5 faces and corresponding surfaces of the cap. Do not allow the sealant to contact the crankshaft or seal. Install the main bearing caps in their correct positions, arrows 6 towards the front of the engine (photo). Tighten the main bearing caps to the specified torque, with the 7 exception of the rear cap bolts. Tighten these to 1 to 1 2 Ibf ft. Tap the end of the crankshaft rearwards then forwards with a hammer interposed with a block of wood to align the rear main bearing thrust faces. Re-tighten all the bearing caps to the specified torque (photo).

45.1 Flywheel mounted

51

Pistons and connecting rods - installation

1

Check that the piston

the piston

is

ring

gaps are as shown

in Fig.

1

.40, also that

correctly aligned to the connecting rod. Apply engine

oil

to the cylinder bores (photo).

47 Lubrication system 1 The lubrication system for the V8 engines is very similar to that described for in-line engines in Section 15, but the different pressure circuit should be observed from the illustrations (Figs. 1 .38 and 1 .39).

48 Examination and renovation 1

The operations

for the

for the in-line engines,

V8

type engines are essentially the

and reference should be made

same

as

to Part 2 of this

Chapter, Sections 1 6 to 27. The following differences should however be noted, and refer only to the V8 Section of Specifications:

2

Install a piston ring compressor over the piston rings which should 2 have been well lubricated. Install pieces of plastic or rubber tube to the threads of the con3 necting rod bolts. Install and lubricate the bearing shells (photo). 4 Insert the connecting rod/piston assembly into its respective bore, ensuring that it is the correct way round (connecting rod tang slot towards camshaft) (Fig. 1 .45). With the base of the base of the piston ring compressor resting on 5 the top face of the cylinder block, tap the assembly into the bore using the wooden handle of a hammer (photo). Carefully guide the connecting rod to engage with the crankpin 6 and install the bearing cap so that the numbers on the rod and cap are

adjacent. 7 Tighten the cap bolts to the specified torque.

Repeat the operations on the remaining pistons. The crankshaft have to be rotated to facilitate connection of the connecting rods and bearing caps (photo). 8

Crankshaft and main bearings 3

There are only

Piston rings 4 The piston diagram

five

ring

will

main bearings.

end gaps should be staggered as shown

in

the

52 Flywheel

Cylinder heads 6 On Mk IV V8 cylinder heads inspect the pushrod guides for wear and damage. 7 On Mk IV V8 and some high performance small V8 heads the puohrod guides are retained by nuts on the rocker arm studs. These studs can be unscrewed for replacement of the guides. When assembling, coat the replacement stud with a gasket sealant and torque tighten.

On

- installation

the flywheel with the dowel hole aligned with the dowel the crankshaft. On vehicles with automatic transmission, the converter attaching pads and flange collar should face towards the 1

Oil pump 5 Note the different construction of the V8 oil pump, otherwise overhaul procedure is as given for in-line engines (Figs. 1 .41 through 1 .44).

8

(or flexplate)

(Fig. 1.40).

small

V8

engines the studs are pressed

in,

but replacement

is

considered a specialist operation involving the reaming of the stud holes 0003 or 00 13 inch oversize, the new studs being lubricated with hypoid axle oil and pressed in to their original depth.

hole

Install in

transmission. Torque-tighten the attaching bolts. A clean wooden block wedged 2 between the crankshaft and cylinder block will prevent rotation while the bolts are being tightened.

Where

this operation is being carried out with the engine installed, the clutch, clutch housing and manual transmission, or the automatic transmission (refer to Chapters 5 and 6).

3

install

53 Camshaft, timing chain and sprockets -

installation

-18x4

inch bolts in the camshaft bolt holes, to Install two j| inch 1 act as holding points, then lubricate the journals with engine oil. Carefully install the camshaft, taking care to feed the journals and 2 cams through the bearings to prevent damage. When the camshaft is

home, remove the two ^ inch bolts (photo). Place the timing chain on the camshaft sprocket then align the 3 marks on the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets. Connect the chain to the crankshaft sprocket, align the camshaft dowel with the dowel hole in the sprocket and install the sprocket on the camshaft (Figs. 1 .46 and fully

49 Engine reassembly -general Refer to Part 2, Section 28.

1.47).

Draw the sprocket onto the camshaft using the attaching bolts. Do not drive the sprocket on, or the rear plug may be loosened. Torque tighten the sprocket attaching bolts. Lubricate the timing chain with engine oil. 5 If not already carried out, pry out the old seal from the front of the 6 front cover using a screwdriver. 4

50 Crankshaft and main bearings -

installation

1 Install the rear main bearing oil seal in the cylinder block and rear main bearing cap grooves, with the seal lip towards the front of the engine. (Where a seal has two lips, the lip with the helix is towards the

38

—

^w

flr

\^^^^^^^

N

l

DISTRIBUTOR SHAFT OILING

Fig.

1

.38 Engine lubrication diagram (small V8) (Sec 47)

39

TO

OIL

COOLER

(HI-PERFORMANCE ONLY)

COOLER BY-PASS VALVE (HI-PERFORMANCE ONLY)

OIL

OIL FILTER BY-PASS

CYLINDER WALLS ARE OILED BY OIL THROWN OFF PRESSURE FED CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS

CYLINDER WALL

AND

VALVE

OIL FILTER

AND

DISTRIBUTOR OILING

CAMSHAFT LOBE OILING

FUEL

PUMP PUSH ROD OILING

CROSS DRILLED MAIN BEARING JOURNALS WITH HIGH PERFORMANCE ENGINE ONLY.

VALVE MECHANISM OILING

CRANKCASE AND CRANKSHAFT OILING

Fig.

1

.39 Engine lubrication

diagram

(large or

Mk

IV V8) (Sec 47)

40

ENGINE LEFT

ENGINE FRONT

ENGINE RIGHT

CYLINDER BLOCK NOTCHES "MARK IV V8" 2-4-6-8

cyl.

Fig.

1

.40 Piston ring end gaps location diagram (Sec 48)

A

gap gaps 2nd compression ring gap Top compression ring gap Oil control ring spacer

B C

Oil control ring rail

D

l

-3-5-7 cyl

**
/

'

Fig. 3.1

1

5

A typical V8

EGR system

(EFE)

system

-

description

and

This system improves cold engine warm-up and driveability by 1 routing hot exhaust gases under the base of the carburetor which results in better atomization of fuel and reduced exhaust emission. The system consists of a vacuum controlled actuator which is 2 linked to a stainless steel exhaust heat valve and a method of controll-

*& engine

Evaporation

ing the

(Sec 26)

vacuum

source.

On in-line engines the vacuum is controlled according to oil 3 temperature, while on V8 engines the vacuum is controlled by a coolant temperature switch.

Chapter 3 Fuel and emission control systems

102

DIAPHRAGM SPRING

RETAINER

Fig. 3.1 Fig. 3.1

1

/.

'

t

21

A typical TRC system

(Sec 29)

PLUNGER SCREW

8 Sectional view of a typical purge valve (Sec 27)

IDLE SPEED 1 ADJUST SCREW TO OBTAIN

TO 20

IN

SPECIFIED

HG

R P

M

r-7

VACUUM SOURCE.

THROTTLE LEVER ACTUATOR

VIEW A

Fig. 3.1

22 Adjusting

a typical

TRC

system (Sec 29)

4

Fig. 3.1

19

A typical EFE system

(Sec 28)

POWER ACTUATOR

Maintenance consists of inspecting all hoses for security of connection and for splits. Move the exhaust valve by hand. If it is stiff to operate or seized, free it with special heat valve lubricant.

GM

29 Throttle Return Control (TRC) system - description and maintenance This system is used on V8 engined vehicles operating in California. purpose is to open the throttle lever slightly when coasting to reduce the emission of hydrocarbons. 2 Periodically check the security of the vacuum hose and the adjust1

ACTUATOR ROD

Its

ment

of the actuator.

To check the actuator valve, disconnect the hose from the valve and connect the valve to an external vacuum source such as a section pump. Have the engine idling at normal operating temperature, with the 4 3

transmission

in

neutral or

'P'.

Apply a vacuum pressure of 20 in Hg to the actuator and then manually open the throttle slightly and let it close again against the actuator plunger. Record the engine rpm which should be approximately 1 500 rpm. If it is not, turn the screw on the plunger and repeat the check (Fig. 3.122). 5

30 Catalytic Converter -

This device, which is used on most vehicles, is fitted into the system. It reduces hydrocarbon and carbon monoxide pollutants in the exhaust gas stream as it passes over the catalytic 1

Fig.

3.120 Atypical actuator and rod used on EFE systems (Sec 28)

description, removal and installation

exhaust

Chapter 3 Fuel and emission control systems

Fig. 3.1

23 A

material contained

103

typical Catalytic Converter (Sec 30)

the converter casing. It should be remembered that the fuel for use in vehicles equipped 2 with a catalytic converter must be of unleaded type only. The converter can be removed by unbolting the clamps at its front 3 and rear, and then cutting through the exhaust pipe sealant and withdrawing the pipes from it. 4 If the catalyst beads must be renewed, have your dealer carry out this work as it requires the use of special equipment and tools. Installation is a reversal of removal. 5 in

31

Manifolds and exhaust systems

1

The intake and exhaust manifolds

Fig.

3.124 Typical V8 manifold gaskets and seals location (Sec 31

are located on the left side of

the engine on six cylinder in-line engines.

On 250 cu in engines the intake manifold is in one section, while 2 on 292 cu in engines the manifold is of a four section type. On V8 engines, the intake manifold is of a cast-iron double level 3 design and incorporates an EGR port. It is located between the two

FRONT

/^\

cylinder banks.

4

A

cast iron exhaust manifold

to serve

5

each

Removal

of the

of

all

is

located on each side of the engine

banks of four cylinders. manifolds

buretor, emission control

is

a matter of disconnecting the car-

and vacuum connections then unbolting the

Fig.

3.125 Typical intake manifold bolt tightening sequence (V8) (Sec 31)

assemblies.

Always use new gaskets on installation and tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified torque wrench settings, and in the sequence 6

specified (V8) (Fig. 3.125). 7 When any one section of the exhaust system needs renewal often follows that the whole lot is best renewed.

It is most important when fitting exhausts that the twists and contours are carefully followed and that each connecting joint overlaps the correct distance. Any stresses or strain imparted, in order to force the system to fit the hanger rubbers, will result in early fractures and

8

failures.

See overleaf

for 'Fault diagnosis

-

When

a new part of a complete system it is well worth the system from the vehicle and cleaning up all the joints so that they assemble together easily. The time spent struggling with obstinate joints whilst flat on your back under the vehicle is eliminated

9

it

removing

fitting

all

even breaking a section is greatly time trying to undo rusted and corroded clamps and bolts. Cut them off. New ones will be required anyway if they are that bad.

and the

likelihood of distorting or

reduced.

Do not waste

fuel

a lot of

and emission control systems'

Chapter 3 Fuel and emission control systems

104 32

Fault diagnosis - fuel

and emission control systems

Symptom

Reason/s

Excessive fuel consumption

Air cleaner

Leaks

choked

in fuel

Fuel level

tank, carburetor or fuel lines

in float

chamber too high

Mixture too rich Incorrect valve clearances Dragging brakes Tires underinflated Ignition fault Insufficient fuel delivery or lean mixture

Clogged fuel filter Stuck carburetor inlet needle valve Faulty fuel

pump

Leaking fuel pipe unions Leaking inlet manifold gasket Leaking carburetor mounting flange gasket Incorrect carburetor adjustment

PCV system Clogged PCV valve hoses

Escaping fumes from engine

Split or collapsed

Fuel evaporative emission control system (ECS) Fuel odor and/or rough running engine

Transmission controlled spark (TCS) system Idle speed too low or too high or dieseling Poor high gear performance Excessive fuel consumption

Choked carbon canister Stuck filler cap valve Collapsed or split hoses

Faulty idle stop solenoid

Blown fuse Loose connections or broken leads

Backfire on deceleration

Faulty coolant temperature switch

Difficult cold start

Faulty transmission switch Faulty

Air injection reactor (AIR)

vacuum advance solenoid

system

Fume emission from exhaust

pipe

Slack

air

pump

drivebelt

broken hoses Clogged pump air filter Split or

Defective air pump Leaking pressure relief valve

Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system Rough idling

Faulty or dirty

EGR

valve

Broken valve diaphragm spring Disconnected or split vacuum hose Split valve diaphragm Leaking valve gasket

Chapter 4 Ignition system Refer to Chapter 13 for specifications and information applicable to 1979 through 1985 models Contents Condenser -

testing,

removal and installation

6

14

Distributor (electronic type) -dismantling and reassembly Distributor (mechanical breaker type) - removal and

7

installation

Distributor (6-cylinder mechanical breaker type) - overhaul Distributor (V8 mechanical breaker type)- overhaul

Dwell angle -checking and adjusting Electronic type distributor- maintenance and precautions Electronic type distributor- removal and installation Fault diagnosis - (electronic ignition - 6-cylinder engines) Fault diagnosis- (electronic system - V8 engines)

....

8 9

4 11

12

19

20

Fault diagnosis- (mechanical contact breaker type ignition) .... General description Ignition coil (used with electronic type distributor) Ignition coil (used with mechanical breaker distributor) Ignition timing (electronic distributor) Ignition timing (mechanical breaker type distributor) Mechanical type breaker points (6-cylinder engine) adjustment Mechanical type breaker points (6-cylinder engine) - renewal ... Mechanical type breaker points (V8 engine) - renewal and adjustment Spark plugs and high tension leads

Specifications

System type 1 1

967 through 975 on

1

1 2V, battery and coil Mechanical breaker type distributor

974

Electronic type distributor

Firing order

1-5-3-6-2-4 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

6-cylinder engine

V8 engine

Mechanical contact breaker type distributor Clockwise

Rotation Points gap

001 6

inch (new points

6-cylinder engine

3

34°

V8

29°

001 9

inch)

Dwell angle: engine

Condenser Distributor data Check also with vehicle In-line

°

1

1

decal.

to

to 31

23 mfd

8 to

The timing figures should be used in conjunction with the specified idling speeds: see Chapter 3

engines 230 cu

1

°

in

967 4° BTDC 4°

BTDC

250cuin

292 cu

in

Without emission control 4° BTDC With emission control 4° BTDC

1968

Without emission control 4° BTDC With emission control TDC Manual 4° BTDC Auto

1969

Without emission control 4° BTDC With emission control TDC Manual 4° BTDC Auto

1970

TDC Manual 4° BTDC Auto

TDC Manual 4° BTDC Auto

1971

4°

4°

BTDC

BTDC

18 1

16 15 13

10 2 3 5 17

Chapter 4 Ignition system

106

1972

250 cu in 4° BTDC

1973

6°

BTDC

4° BTDC Federal 8° BTDC California

1974

8°

BTDC

8°

BTDC

1975

6° BTDC Manual 10° BTDC Auto

8°

BTDC

8°

BTDC

8°

BTDC

230 cu

in

10°

1976

292 cu 4°

BTDC

in

BTDC

California

6° BTDC Manual 10° BTDC Auto 8° BTDC Manual 12° BTDC Auto

1977/1978

California

6°

BTDC Manual BTDC Auto

10°

V8 engines 283 cu

in

1967 4°

BTDC

4°

BTDC

307 cu in Without emission control

350 cu

in

396 cu

in

400 cu

in

454 cu

in

With emission control

1968

Without emission control 2° BTDC With emission control 2° BTDC

1969

Without emission control 2° BTDC With emission control 2° BTDC

1970

2°

BTDC

TDC Manual 4° BTDC Auto

4°

BTDC

1971

2°

BTDC

TDC Manual 4° BTDC Auto

2°

BTDC

1972

4° 8°

1973

1974

BTDC Manual BTDC Auto 4° BTDC Manual 8° BTDC Auto

4° 8°

BTDC Manual BTDC Auto 8° BTDC Manual 12° BTDC Auto

8°

BTDC 10°

2-barrel carburetor

All

TDC Manual 8° BTDC Auto

10°

BTDC

Federal

areas

BTDC

4-barrel carburetor

8° BTDC Manual 12° BTDC Auto California

4° 8°

1975

BTDC Manual BTDC Auto

Light duty

6°

4°

BTDC

BTDC

With Catalytic Converter

12° BTDC Without Catalytic

Heavy duty

California

8°

2°

BTDC

Converter 8° BTDC

4°

BTDC

With Catalytic

BTDC

California

2°

1976

BTDC

2-barrel carburetor

2° 6°

BTDC Manual BTDC Auto

4-barrel carburetor

8°

BTDC

Converter

12° BTDC Without Catalytic Converter

8° California

6°

BTDC

BTDC

Chapter 4 Ignition system 283 cu -

1977/1978

in

305 cu 8°

in

BTDC

350 cu

396 cu

in

107

8°

BTDC

454 cu

400 cu in 4° BTDC

in

2-barrel carburetor

in

Light duty

4°

(except

BTDC

California)

6°

BTDC

California

2°

(California)

BTDC

Heavy duty 8° BTDC

4-barrel carburetor

8°

BTDC

(except

California)

2° BTDC (California)

Sparkplugs Engine 1

967

1968

1969

1970

230 250 283

cu cu cu

250 307

cu cu

250 307

cu cu

in (in-line)

250

cu cu cu cu cu

in (in-line)

292 307 350 396 1971

1972

in (in-line) in (in-line) in

in (in-line)

in

in

1974

(V8)

(V8)

in (in-line)

in

(V8) (V8)

in

-it S>

c

£.< io 1 Oj

1.

^

2

01

If X

-Q

^

v. 9) 9)

95 9>

ct ct

^

•

Bl

1

g

9)

9>

01

C C:

a:

c

|i

S£ rv co

to

o 5-

o

9) V)

c 9) W

9)

< O)

u.

-C (j

if

3

c 9) iK "5 O) "G "& 9)

9) 9)

9] 9)

9) 9)

9)

is 9)

9) i. 9)

(O

S

_ u>

^

QD

-t o Oj »-.

9J 9> «o

Cfc

C

5

ft

9)

C

^3

9)

52

9)

Q. Q. 9) «0

^

c ;

9) 9)

Q

< 9) 9)

i» CO

.^

-C

c

ij

o

c c * S. 9) H C3) S "& CS ^ * o m V 9>

"°

ege

ege

5

9)

iV

spee

? -i "o" «c ^^ QQcjcm •» c\

V

«*J

9)

'3rd

^J-

5 ^ 10 53

9)

CJ.

C5.

u « - 5

Chapter 6 Transmission

165

INTERMEDIATE CLUTCH

FRONT BAND OFF

ON

INTERMEDIATE ROLLER CLUTCH EFFECTIVE

DIRECT CLUTCH OFF

LOW ROLLER CLUTCH INEFFECTIVE

FORWARD CLUTCH ON

REAR BAND OFF

Fig.

6.94 Turbo Hydra-matic 400 automatic transmission cutaway view (Sec 12)

(65°-85°F.)

(18°-29°C.)

COOL

HOT

towards the steering wheel and select Drive' by the action of the transmission detent. Do not be guided by the indicator needle, as this

may

ADD

1

J** FULL

PT.

be out of adjustment. 2 Release the hand control lever and check that Low' cannot be selected unless the lever is lifted. Finally, lift the hand control lever towards the steering wheel and 3 let the action of the transmission detent set the lever in 'Neutral'. 4 Release the lever and check that Reverse' cannot be selected unless the lever is first lifted. A correctly adjusted linkage will prevent the hand control lever from moving beyond the 'Neutral' and 'Drive' detents, unless the lever is first lifted to pass over the mechanical stop. 5 Where adjustment is required, remove the screw (A) and spring

HOT

-J_

Ji_

WARM NOTE: DO NOT OVERFILL. level

from

ADD

to

It

takes only one pint to raise

FULL with a hot transmission.

6.95 Automatic transmission dipstick markings (Sec 13)

Fig.

washer from

Should the vehicle be operating under severe conditions such as hauling a

trailer or stop/start delivery

operations then halve the fluid

change frequency to 12 000 miles. Run the engine for a minute or two with the selector 2

('clicks') to 'Neutral'.

lever

in

neutral.

Remove

tainer.

1

1

(If

5 Shift control linkage - adjustment

To check

7

for correct linkage adjustment,

lift

the

hand control

lever

8

then assemble the swivel, (D). Tighten the screw. necessary, adjust the indicator needle and the neutral safety

Set the hand control lever

spring

the oil pan drain plug and catch the oil in a suitable conno drain plug is fitted it will be necessary to remove the oil pan. When this is done, the filter screen should be cleaned also). Note: On some transmissions it will be necessary to support the engine and remove the crossmember support to permit removal of the oil pan. Refit the drain plug, then remove the dipstick and into the dipstick 4 guide tube pour transmission fluid of the specified grade and quantity. Run the vehicle until the transmission is at normal operating 5 temperature and then check and adjust the fluid level, as described in the preceding Section.

3

the swivel (B) (Fig. 6.96).

6 Set the transmission lever (C) in the Neutral' position by moving it counterclockwise to the 'L1' detent and then clockwise three detents

If

washer and screw

in 'Neutral',

to the lever

assembly

switch.

1

1

6 Neutral start switch - adjustment Place the hand control lever

in

the 'Neutral' position.

2 Loosen the screws attaching the switch to the steering column. Using a 0.098 in diameter guide pin, rotate the switch alternately 3 clockwise and counterclockwise until the guide pin can be inserted into the switch and the steering column (to a depth of f inch). 4 Whilst maintaining the switch in this position, tighten the switch attaching screws. 5 When a satisfactory adjustment has been carried out, remove the guide pin.

Chapter 6 Transmission

166

SHIFT LEVER

1

7 Turbo-Hydra-matic 350 detent cable - adjustment Refer to Chapter 3, and remove the air cleaner assembly. Locate and then loosen the detent cable clamp screw. With the choke off, position the carburetor lever in the wide open

1

2

3

LEVER ASSEMBLY

TRANSMISSIONS LEVER

(D)

^vjH

throttle position.

^

4

Pull the detent cable rearward, until the wide open throttle stop in the transmission is felt. Note: The cable must be pulled through the detent position to reach the wide open throttle stop. Tighten the detent cable clamp screw and check the linkage for 5

\\^yj

(C)

DO NOT

USE

IMPACT WRENCH TO

TORQUE

proper operation.

THIS NUT.

1

8 Turbo Hydra-matic 400 detent switch - adjustment

Pre-1 972 models Loosen the switch mounting bolts and rotate the carburetor lever wide open throttle position. Now, maintaining the wide open throttle position, move the 2 switch so that a dimension of 0.200 in (350 V8 engine) or 0.050 in (all other engines) exists between the carburetor lever and the switch 1

to obtain the

LEVER ASSEMBLY

SCREW

(A)

t

^4

plunger.

SPRING WASHER

When the correct dimension has been obtained, firmly tighten the 3 switch attaching bolts.

\,

SWIVEL

(B)

1972 models onwards Fig.

6.96 Shift control linkage - adjustment points (Sec

1

5)

4

.098 DIA.

GAUGE

new

switch, press the switch plunger in fully. with the first wide open throttle application at the accelerator pedal. After installation of a

The switch

then adjust

will

itself

PIN

19 Automatic transmission (Turbo Hydra-matic 350) - removal and installation Vehicles equipped with 4-wheel drive transfer case Disconnect the battery ground cable. Raise the vehicle on a hoist or place it over an inspection pit. 3 Remove the transfer case shift lever and rod (see Section 3). 4 Disconnect the vacuum modulator line and the speedometer drive cable at the transmission. Tie this line and cable up out of the way of 1

2

the

work

area.

Disconnect the manual control lever rod and the detent cable from 5 the transmission. 6

STEERING

COLUMN

Disconnect the front and rear propeller shafts

at the transfer

case

(see Chapter 7).

Loosen and remove the transmission to adapter case attaching and place a suitable support under the transfer case. Using a trolley jack or other suitable means of support, take the 8 weight of the transmission. Loosen and remove the transfer case to frame bracket bolts and 9 7

bolts Fig.

6.97 Neutral safety switch - adjustment (Sec 16)

remove the transfer case. 10 On V8 engined vehicles, remove the exhaust system crossover pipe.

Remove the bolts securing the rear crossmember in position and away from the transmission. 12 Remove the torque converter underpan, suitably scribe the

1

lift

it

flexplate to converter relationship for correct installation, then

remove

the flexplate to converter securing bolts. 1 3 Support the engine at the oil pan rail with a jack or other suitable support capable of taking the weight of the engine when the transmis-

is removed. 14 Slightly lower the transmission so that the upper transmission housing-to-engine attaching bolts can be reached using a universal socket with a long extension bar. Remove the upper bolts. 15 Remove the remainder of the transmission housing-to-engine

sion

attaching bolts.

16 To remove the transmission, move it slightly to the rear and downward. Have a second person to assist in this operation. Lower the transmission to the ground and remove it from beneath the vehicle. Note: Observe the converter when moving the transmission rearward. it does not move with the transmission, pry it free of the flexplate before proceeding. When removing the transmission keep the front

If

Fig.

6.98

Detent cable adjustment - Turbo Hydra-matic 350 (Sec 17)

end upwards 17

to

Installation

prevent the converter from falling out. is the reverse of removal, but tighten

specified torque.

all

bolts to the

Chapter 6 Transmission

167

WITH ACCELERATOR CONTROLS PROPERLY ADJUSTED, ROTATE LEVER TO OBTAIN WIDE OPEN THROTTLE. POSITION SWITCH TO OBTAIN DIM. A SHOWN IN TABLE

BETWEEN PLUNGER AND LEVER TIGHTEN SWITCH ATTACHING SCREWS. DIM.

A

ALL EXCEPT

307 V-8 ENGINE Fig.

TRANSMISSION

350

350 V8

.05

350 V8

.20

ENGINE

6.99 Turbo Hydra-matic 400 detant switch - pre-1 972 models (Sec

1

8)

Conventional 2-wheel drive vehicles

PLUNGER

Disconnect the battery ground cable. Raise the vehicle on a hoist or place it over an inspection pit. 20 Disconnect the vacuum modulator line and the speedometer drive cable fitting at the transmission. Tie this line and cable up out of the

CONTROL

1 1

SWITCH

\

way

of the

21

Disconnect the manual control lever rod and the detent cable from

work

area.

the transmission.

22 Refer to Chapter 7, and disconnect the propeller shaft. 23 Using a suitable jack, support the weight of the transmission. 24 Disconnect the engine rear mounting at the transmission extension, then remove the transmission support crossmember. 25 Remove the torque converter underpan, scribe the flexplate-toconverter relationship for installation purposes, then remove the flexplate-to-converter bolts. 26 Support the engine at the

oil pan rail with a jack or other suitable brace capable of supporting the engine weight when the transmission

is

removed.

27

CK SERIES Fig.

6.100 Turbo Hydra-matic 400 detent switch

onwards (Sec 18)

1972 models

Slightly lower the rear of the transmission, so that the upper transmission housing-to-engine bolts can be reached using a universal socket and a long extension bar. Remove the upper bolts. 28 Remove the remainder of the transmission housing-to-engine attaching bolts. 29 With the assistance of a second person, remove the transmission by moving it rearwards and downwards. Lower the transmission to the ground and remove it from under the vehicle. Note: Observe the converter when moving the transmission rearward. If it does not move with the transmission, pry it free of the flexplate before proceeding. When removing the transmission keep the front end upwards to prevent the converter from falling out. 30 Installation is the reverse of removal. Ensure that all bolts are tightened to the specified torque.

Chapter 6 Transmission

168

Turbo Hydra-matic 350 transmission. With the exception of disconnecting the oil cooler pipes, the electrical wires to the detent switch and (where applicable) the

to the

20 Automatic transmission (Turbo Hydra-matic 400) - removal and

installation

2

removal procedures are very similar to those described for the Turbo Hydra-matic 350 (conventional 2-wheel drive vehicles) in Section 19. catalytic converter, the

The Turbo Hydra-matic 400 transmission

1

21

is

very similar

in

design

Fault diagnosis - automatic transmission

Symptom

Reason/s

No

Low

drive in Drive range

oil

level

Incorrect linkage adjustment

1

to 2 shift

on

full

throttle only

Detent valve cable incorrectly set Detent valve sticking Leak in vacuum line Internal fault

No

upshift

from

1

to 2

Detent cable binding Incorrectly adjusted intermediate

band

Internal fault

No

upshift

Moves Drive

No

from 2 to 3

off in

in

Internal fault

second speed

Intermediate band adjustment too tight

neutral

drive

in

Incorrectly adjusted linkage

Low

reverse

fluid level

Incorrectly adjusted linkage Internal fault Slip in

all

ranges and upshifts

Low

oil

level

Incorrectly adjusted intermediate

band

Internal fault

No engine

braking

Incorrectly adjusted intermediate

band

Internal fault

No

part throttle downshift

No

full

throttle

Detent valve cable broken or incorrectly adjusted

downshift

Shift points too high or too

Detent valve cable broken or incorrectly adjusted

low

Faulty

Won't hold

in

P'

vacuum line vacuum modulator assembly

Fault in

Incorrectly adjusted linkage Internal fault in parking

pawl mechanism

Chapter 7 Propeller shafts Contents

4^

Center support bearing - dismantling and reassembly Fault diagnosis- propeller shafts Front driveshaft (4-wheel drive vehicles) - removal and

7

Lubrication

9

Propeller shaft- correcting out-of-balance Propeller shaft - removal and installation

installation

6

General description

1

Universal joints -overhaul Universal joints- testing for wear

Specifications

Type Tubular steel with front sliding yoke. One or two sections, depending on vehicle model and wheelbase dimension. Universal joints at front

2-wheel drive vehicles

and rear of shaft As above, but with the addition of a driveshaft between the front axle and the transfer case. A constant velocity joint is used at the transfer case end of the shaft

4-wheel drive vehicles

Torque wrench settings

Ibfft

Propeller shaft to rear axle (strap type)

1

Propeller shaft to rear axle (U-bolt type)

1

20 40

Bearing support to hanger

Hanger

to

2 to 1 8 to 22

frame

to

to

30 50

end connecting to the output shaft of the transmission, while two-section shafts have a central slip joint. The purpose of these devices is to accommodate, by retraction or extension, the varying shaft length caused by the movement of the rear axle sliding sleeve at the front

1

General description

1

The propeller shaft

is

of tubular construction and

may be

wheelbase of the vehicle. On four-wheel drive vehicles, the rear wheel drive line

of a

one

is

very

or two-section type according to the

2

in paragraph 1 but in order to drive the front incorporated between the transfer case and the front axle. This shaft is basically similar to the shafts used to drive the

similar to that described

wheels

a driveshaft

,

is

rear axle.

propeller shafts used to drive the rear wheels have needle bearing type universal joints. Single-section shafts have a splined

3

All

BALL

as the rear suspension deflects. On four-wheel drive vehicles, due to the extent of the front driveshaft angle, a constant velocity joint is used at the transfer case end of the driveshaft. 4 Where a two-section shaft is used, the shaft is supported near its forward end on a ball bearing which is flexibly mounted in a bracket

attached to the frame crossmember. Some universal joints can be lubricated but other types are grease 5 sealed for life. The constant velocity joint used on four-wheel drive vehicles must be lubricated regularly.

6 WASHER

2

end of the propeller shaft

to the rear

COUPLING YOKE FLANGE YOKE

view of a two-section propeller shaft (Sec

Lubrication

1 On early vehicles, the universal joint at the center bearing is fitted with grease nipples. Apply the grease gun as specified in Routine Maintenance at the beginning of this manual. 2 The constant velocity joint used on 4-wheel drive vehicles (at the transfer case end of the front wheel driveshaft) must also be lubricated

BALL STUD

Fig. 7.1 Typical

of the rear

axle pinion flange) may be by U-bolt or bolted strap, according to the date of production and model. 7 The propeller shaft is finely balanced during manufacture and it is recommended that an exchange unit is obtained rather than dismantling the universal joints when wear is evident. However, this is not always possible and provided care is taken to mark each individual yoke in relation to the one opposite then the balance will usually be maintained. Do not drop the assembly during servicing operations.

SEAL

YOKE

The attachment

axle pinion flange (or the attachment of the front driveshaft to the front

regularly. 1

)

Use the

special lubricant

special adaptor, tool

1050679

(or equivalent) for this.

J-25512-2, placed on the end of

be needed to carry out this operation satisfactorily.

a flex hose,

A

may

Chapter 7 Propeller shafts

170

Fig.

3

7.2 Typical constant velocity joint used on 4-wheel drive vehicles (Sec 1)

models having two-section propeller shafts, and 4-wheel drive on the slip joint. Lubricate these also as

All

vehicles, have a grease nipple specified.

4

On

3

being checked, and the front half coupling when the front is being checked. Any movement between the propeller shaft and the front half couplings, and round the rear half couplings, is indicative of considerable wear. 3 If wear is evident, either fit a new propeller shaft assembly complete or renew the universal joints as described later in this Section. 4 A final test for wear is to attempt to lift the shaft and note any

joint

single-section shafts, the splined sliding section at the front

automatically lubricated by

propeller shaft in position, by trying to turn the shaft with one hand, the other hand holding the rear axle flange when the rear universal

oil

is

seepage from the transmission.

Propeller shaft - correcting out-of-balance

Vibration not caused by worn universal joints may be due to mud underbody sealing compound adhering to the shaft. Check this and remove it, where applicable. 2 Some improvement may be experienced if the attachment of the rear end of the shaft is moved through 180° and then reconnected to 1

is

universal joint

movement between

the yokes of the joints.

or

the rear axle drive pinion flange.

important that the relative position of the propeller shaft to this flange is maintained, therefore always make alignment marks on the shaft and flange before removing the shaft. 4 In difficult cases of out-of-balance condition, try a worm drive clip round each section of the shaft in sequence, with the worm moved to different positions until road tests prove that the trouble has been 3

It

is

eliminated.

4

Universal joints- testing for wear

1 Wear in the needle roller bearings is characterized by vibration in the transmission, clonks' on taking up the drive, and in extreme cases of lack of lubrication, metallic squeaking and ultimately grating and shrieking sounds as the bearings break up. 2 It is easy to check if the needle bearings are worn with the

5 1

Propeller shaft - removal and installation Place the vehicle over an inspection

pit

or raise the rear

end on

stands.

Using chalk or white paint, mark the relative positions of the components to ensure correct alignment upon installation. It is most important that the propeller shaft to rear axle companion flange is marked in this way. Unbolt the rear connecting U-bolt or straps, whichever type of 3 fixing is used. It is advisable to tape the universal joint bearing cups to the trunnions to prevent displacement of cups or needle rollers. 4 On vehicles which have a two-section shaft, unscrew and remove the bolts from the center bearing bracket. Push the shaft slightly forward to disengage it from the rear axle, 5 then, while lowering it, withdraw the complete shaft assembly to the rear. The front splined sliding sleeve section will be drawn off the transmission output shaft during the removal operation and a small amount of lubricant may be lost from vehicles equipped with manual

2

installed

transmission.

Chapter 7 Propeller shafts

type attachment between the propeller shaft and the axle companion flange (Sec 5)

Fig. 7.3 U-bolt

6

To

install a

single-section shaft, simply reverse the removal opera-

install a

two-section propeller shaft, slide the front part of the The center joint spline has an alignment

171

Fig.

7.4 Strap type attachment between the propeller shaft and the axle companion flange (Sec 5)

Fig.

7.5 Spline alignment key used on conventional drive vehicles (Sec 5)

tions.

7

To

shaft into the transmission. key, so vehicles

it

is

not possible to install it incorrectly. On 4-wheel drive with two-section propeller shafts, the method of

fitted

installation is as follows. Slide the front part of the shaft into the transmission and bolt the center bearing bracket to the crossmember. Slide the grease cap and gasket onto the rear splines, then rotate 8 the shaft so that the front universal joint trunnion is in a vertical

attitude.

9

Support the rear section of the shaft and align the universal

trunnions

in

the

same

joint

vertical attitude as the front one.

10 Now rotate the rear section of the shaft four splines (90°) in an anti-clockwise direction (facing front of vehicle) and connect the rear shaft to the front shaft. This alignment operation is known as 'phasing'. Connect the rear of the shaft to the rear axle flange, then tighten 1 the grease cap on the slip joint.

6

Front

driveshaft

(4-wheel

drive

vehicles)-

removal

and

installation

1

The connection

joints of the front driveshaft are basically the

same

FRONT YOKE OF REAR PROP SHAFT

FRONT PROP SHAFT

ROTATE SHAFT FOUR SPLINES LEFT SIDE OF VEHICLE

TOWARD

Fig. 7.6

Correct alignment of propeller shafts on 4-wheel drive vehicles (Sec 5)

Chapter 7 Propeller shafts

172

as the rear propeller shaft joints, except that the transfer case end the driveshaft uses a constant velocity joint. 2 The removal and installation procedures, in theory, are described in the preceding Section, but in practice, will be found to simpler in as much as there is only the one single-section shaft

of

as

be to

remove.

7

Center support bearing - dismantling and reassembly

1 With the propeller shaft removed from the vehicle and the shaft sections separated at the center bearing, remove the bearing dust

shield.

2 Remove the strap which retains the rubber cushion to the bearing support bracket. Separate the cushion, bracket and bearing. 3 4 Pull the bearing assembly from the propeller shaft. 5 Renew any worn components and then commence reassembly. If the inner deflector

was removed,

two opposite points

to ensure that

install it

is

it

to the shaft

a tight

and stake

it

at

fit.

Pack the space between the inner dust deflector and the bearing 6 with lithium base grease. 7 Carefully tap the bearing and slinger assembly onto the propeller shaft journal until the components are tight against the shoulder on the shaft. Use a suitable piece of tubing to do this, taking care not to

damage 8

the shaft splines.

the dust shield (small diameter

Install

and press

it

up against

Universal joints- overhaul

Outer snap-ring type With the propeller shaft removed, mark the location of the 1 yokes in relation to each other.

Fig. 7.7

Fig. 7.8 /

2 3

Removing the joint bearing cups (Sec

An

outer snap-ring joint repair

Trunnion Seal

Needle

rollers

of the bearing cups. Position the trunnion 8

yoke and

in

the yoke, partially install one cup into the

insert the trunnion a

little

way

into

it.

Partially install the

opposite cup, center the trunnion, then, using the vise, press both cups into position using socket wrenches of diameter slightly less than that of the bearing cups. Make sure that the needle bearings are not displaced and trapped during this operation. Fit the snap-rings. 9 10 Align the shaft yokes and install the other bearing cups in the

same way. Injected plastic (inner snap-ring) type

first)

the outer slinger. Install the bearing rubber cushion, bracket and strap. 9

8

Extract the snap-rings from the ends of the bearing cups. Using socket wrenches or pieces of pipe of suitable diameter, use a vise to press on the end of one cup and to displace the opposite one into the larger socket wrench or pipe. The bearing cup will not be fully ejected and it should be gripped in the jaws of the vise and twisted completely out of the yoke. 4 Remove the first bearing cup by pressing the trunnion in the opposite direction, then repeat the operations on the other two cups. Clean the yoke and inspect for damage or cracks. 5 Obtain the appropriate repair kit which will include, trunnion, cups, 6 needle rollers, seals, washers and snap-rings. Before commencing reassembly, pack the reservoirs in the ends of 7 the trunnion with grease and work some into the needle bearings taking care not to displace them from their location around the inside

2 3

4 5 6

kit

joint

This type of universal joint will be found on late model vehicles. 1 Repair can be carried out after destroying the production line plastic retainers and fitting conventional snap-ring type repair kits. 12 Support the joint yoke in a press so that using a suitable forked pressing tool, pressure can be applied to two 'eyes' of the yoke to eject a bearing cup partially into a socket wrench of adequate diameter. 13 Repeat on all the cups and then twist the cups out of the yokes with a vise. 14 Clean away all trace of the plastic bearing cup retainers. This can be facilitated by probing through the plastic injection holes.

Fig.

8)

7.9 Installing a trunnion seal (Sec 8)

(Sec 8)

Washer Cup Snap-ring

Fig.

7.10 Trunnion to yoke installation (Sec

8)

Chapter 7 Propeller shafts 15 Obtain the appropriate repair kit which will include one prelubricated trunnion assembly, bearing cups, seals and other com-

ponents as shown in Fig. 7.12. 16 Assemble the universal joint as described in paragraphs 8, 9 and 10 of this Section. Note that the snap-rings are installed on the inside of the yokes on this type of joint. 17 When reassembly is complete, if the joint is stiff to move, apply some hammer blows to the yoke which will free the bearing cups from the snap-rings.

173

2

Clean the seal, ball seats, spring and washers and inspect for wear. excessive wear is evident or parts are broken, a repair kit must be used. If

22 Remove (if

all

plastic material

23 Inspect the centering ball, 24 Withdraw the centering

if

extractor. Provided that the ball it

from the groove of the coupling yoke

applicable).

is

damaged

it must be renewed. from the stud using a suitable not to be re-used, it will not matter if

ball is

damaged.

a new ball onto the stud until it seats firmly on the stud shoulder. It is extremely important that no damage to the ball occurs during this stage and suitable protection must be given to it. 26 Using the grease provided in the repair kit, lubricate all the parts

25 Press

Double cardan type constant 18 An inspection

kit

velocity joint containing two bearing cups and two retainers

is

where the commenced, mark

available to permit the joint to be dismantled to the stage

can be inspected. Before any dismantling is the flange yoke and coupling yoke to permit reassembly in the same position, then follow the procedure given previously for the snap-ring or injected plastic type, as applicable (Fig. 7.13). 19 Disengage the flange yoke and trunnion from the centering ball. Pry the seal from the ball socket and remove the washers, spring and the 3 ball seats. 20 Clean the ball seat insert bushing and inspect for wear. If evident, the flange yoke and trunnion assembly must be replaced.

joint

r

n

ROLLER BEARINGS

BEARING RETAINER

BEARING CUP

ROUND

PLASTIC

and insert them into the ball seat cavity in the following order: spring, washer (small o.d.), 3 ball seats (largest opening outwards to receive the ball), washer (large o.d.) and the seal. 27 Lubricate the seal lips and press it (lip inwards) into the cavity. Fill the cavity with the grease provided. 28 Install the flange yoke to the centering ball, ensuring that the alignment marks are correctly positioned. 29 Install the trunnion caps as described previously for the snap-ring or injected plastic types.

CROSS

WASHER

Fig. Fig. 7.1

1

An

injected plastic joint repair kit (Sec 8)

7.12 Installing a snap-ring to the injected plastic type joint (Sec 8)

FLANG€ YOKE COUPLING YOKE

BAH SUPPORT

WASHER

TUBE YOKE

(Large

OD

3-BALL SEATS

SEAL

WASHER

7.14 Exploded view of the centering

OD)

SPRING

REPLACEABLE BALL

Fig.

(Small

ball

mechanism (Sec

8)

ALIGNMENT PUNCH MARKS Fig.

7.13 Alignment marks to be made before dismantling of

CV joint

(Sec 8)

mgm Fig. Fig.

7.15 Installing the centering

ball

(Sec 8)

7.16 Installing the flange yoke to the centering

ball

(Sec 8)

J

174

Chapter 7 Propeller shafts

9 Fault diagnosis - propeller shafts

Symptom

Reason/s

Vibration

Wear

in

sliding sleeve splines

Loose bolts on rear universal

Worn Out

joint

universal joint bearings

of balance propeller shaft

Distorted propeller shaft

Knock

or 'clunk'

when

taking up drive or shifting gear

Loose bolts on rear universal

Worn Worn

joint

universal joint bearings drive pinion splines causing looseness

Excessive backlash

in differential

gears

in

companion flange

Chapter 8 Front and rear axles Refer to Chapter 13 for specifications and information applicable to 1979 through 1982 models Contents Bearing (semi-floating type axleshaft)- renewal Fault diagnosis

4 15

installation

12

- front and rear axles Freewheeling hub (front wheel drive axle) - removal and

General description

Hub/drum assembly

1

(fully-floating axle)

- removal and

installation

10

removal and installation Fully-floating type axle assembly - removal and

14

- renewal - renewal Pinion oil seal (fully-floating type axle) - renewal Pinion oil seal (semi-floating type axle) - renewal Semi-floating type axle assembly- removal and

installation

11

Semi-floating type rear axleshaft - removal and

Front drive axle (K Series) with

drum brakes -

axleshaft

removal and installation

13

Front drive axle (K Series) with disc brakes

Fully-floating type axleshaft-

-

axleshaft

removal and installation

9

Oil seal

(semi-floating type axleshaft) Pinion oil seal (front wheel drive axle)

3 7 6 5

installation

8

installation

2

Specifications

Rear axle Make and type

Chevrolet or Dana (semi- or fully-floating) with varying ring gear diameters depending on the axle capacity (see below)

Vehicle series

Axle type/capacity

C10andK10

Salisbury/3750 Salisbury/4000 Salisbury/5700 Salisbury/7500 Salisbury/7500 Salisbury/7500

K10

C20andK20 C20

(crew cab)

C30andK30 C30

(camper)

lb lb

lb lb lb

lb

Manufacturer

Ring gear diameter 8| inches 8| inches 10| inches 10| inches 10| inches 10| inches

Chevrolet Chevrolet Chevrolet Chevrolet Chevrolet

Dana

Front axle

Make and

type

Dana 44

Vehicle series

Axle type/capacity

K10and20

Salisbury/3100 Salisbury/4500

K30

lb

Ring gear diameter 8 j inches

lb

9|

Lubricant capacity (front and rear axles) 8| inch (Dana) 8| inch (Chevrolet) 9| inch (Dana) 10| inch (Chevrolet) 10| inch (Dana) Pinion bearing preload 8| inch (Dana) 8| inch (Chevrolet) j inch (Dana) 9| and 0| inch (Chevrolet)

4.2 3.5

6.0 5.4 7.2

1

bf ft

i

plug:

inch

Dana

inch and

1

axles 0-y inch

25 Dana

axles

10 18

Chevrolet axles Brake backing plate: All

S\ 9|

inch and inch and

8| inch axles 1 0| inch axles

Axleshaft to hub bolts (9| inch and

1

0|

inch axles)

35 1 05 115

fully-floating (see

Manufacturer Dana Dana

pints pints

pints pints pints

bfin 1

Torque wrench settings 8| 9f

US US US US US

New 5 to 30 New 5 to 30 New 20 to 40 New 25 to 35

1

Dana 60

inches

l

1

Filler

semi-floating or

(Used 5 to 1 0) (Used 5 to 1 0) (Used 1 to 20) (Used 5 to 1 5)

below)

Chapter 8 Front and rear axles

176

1

General description

The rear axle may be one of three types, depending upon the model series. On the 10 series vehicles a semi-floating axle, which is produced 2 by Chevrolet and has an 8£ diameter ring gear, is used. The differential assembly is a hypoid pinion and gear design incorporating two pinions. On heavier duty vehicles (20 and 30 series), a Dana or Chevrolet 3 axle is installed which has a 60-$- inch ring gear diameter and is of the 1

vehicle

easy removal of the axleshafts without having to unload the vehicle or to jack-up the

fully-floating type. This type of construction permits

7 Later four-wheel drive vehicles have what is known as a full-time four-wheel drive system'. Earlier vehicles were fitted with freewheeling hubs on the front wheels, which enabled the axle drag to be eliminated when the front wheel drive was not in use. These freewheeling hubs were manually engaged and disengaged. Due to the need for special tools and equipment, it is recom8 mended that operations on these models are limited to those described in this Chapter. Where repair or overhaul is required, remove the axle assembly and take it to a specialist company, or exchange it for a new or reconditioned unit. It is becoming increasingly rare to be able to obtain individual axle components for local repair work as it is generally recognised that dismantling and rebuilding this unit is an 'in plant' job.

axle (Fig. 8.4).

4 On four-wheel drive vehicles, the front axle is of Dana production. The 10 and 20 series vehicles use an 8 inch diameter ring gear, while the later 30 series vehicle uses a 9-j- inch diameter ring gear.

9

Always make sure

type and reduction

that an axle unit

is

changed

for

one of

identical

ratio.

-J-

the axles used on these trucks are of the Salisbury type. front axle on four-wheel drive vehicles is a slightly modified rear axle. These axles incorporate a universal joint at the end of each driveshaft, inboard of the front brake assembly. This joint enables the

5

All

6

The

front

wheels to both drive and

steer.

Fig. 8.1

Companion

flange

Deflector Pinion oil seal Pinion front bearing Pinion bearing spacer Differential carrier

2 1

2 3

Semi-floating type rear axleshaft - removal and installation Raise the rear of the vehicle and support securely. the roadwheel and the brake drum. Unscrew and remove the pressed steel cover from the differential

Remove

Cross-section of the differential (8} and 8£ inch ring gear) (typical) (Sec

7

Differential case

13 Rear cover

8 9

Shim

1

Gasket 10 Differential bearing 11 1

C-lock

2 Pinion shaft lock screw

4 Pinion

shaft

15 Ring gear Side gear 1 6 17 Bearing cap 18 Axleshaft

1

19 Thrust washer

20 D ifferential pinion 21 Shim 22 Pinion rear bearing 23 Drive pinion

Chapter 8 Front and rear axles

Fig. 8.2

1

2 3 4 5 6

Exploded view of the Dana differential (9} inch ring gear) (Sec

Shims

17 Cover and plug 18 Lockpin (pinion shaft) 19 Differential case

Nut Washer Companion flange

9

Pinion

12 Cup (inner pinion bearing)

20 Shims

Cone and roller (inner pinion) 14 Ring and pinion

2

15 Gasket (housing cover) 1 Sere wand washer (co ver)

22 Cup 23 Cap

oil

(outer pinion bearing)

10 Oilslinger 1

seal

Gasket

Shims

(inner pinion bearing)

1

Oils linger

7 and 8 Cone and roller (outer pinion bearing}

177

(differential adjusting)

Cone and roller

(differential

1

]

24 25 26

Bolt (differential bearing cap) Bolt (ring gear) Pinion shaft 2 7 Thrust washer (pinion) 28 Pinion

29 Side gear

bearing) (differential bearing)

30

Thrust washer (side gear)

(differential bearing)

the end of the axle housing as the splined end of the axleshaft passes

through 7

it.

Installation

is

a reversal of removal, but firmly tighten the lock

screw.

Always use

8

a

new

cover gasket and tighten the cover bolts to the

specified torque.

the unit with the correct quantity and grade of lubricant.

9

Refill

3

Oil seal (semi-floating type axleshaft)

- renewal

Remove

the axleshaft as described in the preceding Section. Pry out the old oil seal from the end of the axle casing using a large screwdriver, or the inner end of the axleshaft itself, as a lever. Apply high melting point grease to the oil seal recess and tap the 3 seal into position so that the lips are facing inwards and the metal face 1

2

is

visible

from the end of the axle housing. When correctly installed, oil seal should be flush with the end of the axle casing.

the face of the

4 Fig.

8.3

Differential

pinion shaft removal

(Sec 2)

1

2

and allow the oil to drain into a suitable container. Unscrew and remove the lock screw from the differential

carrier

4

Remove

will

pini non

the pinion shaft. Push the outer (flanged) end of the axleshaft inwards and remove 5 the C-lock from the inner end of the shaft. Withdraw the axleshaft, taking care not to damage the oil seal in 6 pin (Fig. 8.3).

Bearing (semi-floating type axleshaft) - renewal

(semi-floating axle)

Remove the axleshaft (Section 2) and the oil A bearing extractor will now be required, or

seal (Section 3).

a tool made up which engage behind the bearing. Attach a slide hammer and extract the bearing from the axle

3 casing (Fig. 8.6). 4 Clean out the bearing recess and drive in the new bearing using a piece of tubing applied against the outer bearing track. Make sure that the bearing is tapped in to the full depth of its recess, and that the

Chapter 8 Front and rear axles

178

Fig.

7

Companion

2

Oil deflector

3 4

Bearing retainer

5

Shim

8.4 Differential cross-section (10} inch ring gear) (typical) (Sec

6

1

7

1

Pinion bearing Collapsible spacer a Pinion bearing Drive pinion 9 10 Straddle bearing

flange

Oil seal

numbers on the bearing

2 13 1 4 1 5

Discard the old

oil

1

6 Side bearing

Differential spider

1

7 Side bearing adjusting nut

Differential case

and

install a

new

Differential side

one, then

install

the

axleshaft.

On some

very early models, the bearings are pressed onto the Have your dealer remove these as they are very tight and before removal, a retaining collar must be cut away.

6

axleshaft

5

itself.

Pinion

oil

18 Adjusting nut retainer 19 Retainer screw 20 Bearing cap

D ifferential pin 'on

are visible from the outer end of the axle

seal

)

Ring gear

casing.

5

1

seal (semi-floating type axle) - renewal

1 Raise the rear axle and support it on axlestands so that the roadwheels are clear of the ground. Remove the brake drums and

roadwheels. 2 Disconnect the propeller shaft from the rear axle drive pinion as

gear

2 1 Case-to-ring gear 22 Cover plate 23 Bearing cap bolt 24 Cover screw

25

bolt

Ax/eshaft

described in Chapter 7 and tie it to the body sideframe. Using a torque wrench, check the torque required to rotate the 3 pinion and record this for use later. If a torque wrench is not available, use a spring balance with a length of cord wound round the pinion

companion flange. 4 Scribe or dot punch alignment marks on the pinion stem, nut and flange so that they can be installed in the same relative position. 5 Count the number of threads visible between the end of the nut

and the end of the pinion stem, and record for later use. 6 A suitable tool must now be used to hold the pinion flange quite still while the self-locking pinion nut is removed. This can easily be made by drilling two holes at the end of a length of flat steel bar and bolting 7

8

it

to the flange (Fig. 8.1

1 ).

Unscrew and remove the pinion nut. Withdraw the companion flange. If this

is

tight,

use a two or three

179

Fig.

8.5 Sectional view of the wheel bearing and floating axle) (Sec 4)

Fig. 8.7 Installing the

Fig.

8.9

wheel bearing (semi-floating

oil

seal (semi-

axle) (Sec 4)

Measuring pinion rotating torque (semi-floating axle) (Sec

5)

Fig.

8.6

Fig.

Fig.

Wheel bearing removal

8.8 Installing the

oil

(semi-floating axle) (Sec 4)

seal (semi-floating axle) (Sec 4)

8.10 The pinion nut and flange suitably index marked (semifloating axle) (Sec 5)

Chapter 8 Front and rear axles

180

legged extractor engaged behind the flange. On no account attempt to lever behind the deflector or to hammer on the end of the pinion stem. Pry out the old seal and discard it. 9 10 Tap the new oil seal into position making sure that it enters the housing squarely and to its full depth. 1 Align the mating marks made before dismantling and install the companion flange. If necessary, use a piece of tubing as a spacer and screw on the pinion nut to force the flange fully home on the stem. On

no account attempt

to

hammer the

flange home.

12 Smear jointing compound on the ends of the splines which are companion flange so that any oil seepage will be sealed in. 13 Install the thrust washer and nut, but tighten the nut carefully so that the original number of threads is exposed. 14 Now measure the torque required to rotate the pinion and tighten the nut fractionally until the figure compares with that recorded before dismantling. In order to compensate for the drag of the new oil seal, the nut should be further tightened so that the rotational torque of the pinion exceeds that recorded before dismantling by between 1 and 5 visible in the center of the

Ibf in.

15

Install

the propeller shaft, brake

drum and roadwheel and lower

6

Pinion

oil

seal (fully-floating type axle)

- renewal

1 Disconnect the propeller shaft from the rear axle companion flange (see Chapter 7). Refer to Fig 8.10 and scribe a line down the pinion stem, the 2 pinion nut and the companion flange.

A

suitable tool must now be used to hold the pinion flange quite while the self locking pinion nut is removed. This can easily be made by drilling two holes at the end of a length of flat steel bar and bolting it to the flange. Extract the split-pin from the slotted pinion nut. Unscrew the nut 4

3

still

and remove the companion flange. Unscrew and remove the bolts which secure the 5

oil

seal retainer to

the differential carrier. Pry out the defective oil seal and tap in the new one. Fill the space 6 between the seal lips with high melting point grease. 7 Install the retainer and the companion flange. Install the washer and slotted nut, tightening the nut only until the 8 scribed marks made before dismantling are in alignment. 9 Insert a new split-pin and then re-connect the propeller shaft.

the vehicle.

Note: With this type of axle having a collapsible spacer, it is most important that the pinion nut is not overtightened. Backing off the nut will not rectify the situation and the only remedy is to remove the front bearing assembly, extract the collapsible spacer and install a new one, then repeat the adjustment operations.

7

Pinion

1

As mentioned

oil

seal (front

wheel

drive axle)

- renewal

the front wheel drive axle

is,

2 Once the front driveshaft has been disconnected as described Chapter 7, pinion oil seal renewal is identical to that described Section 5 or 6, depending upon the type of axle fitted.

in

in effect,

8

previously

in

Section

1

,

a modified rear axle. in

Semi-floating type axle assembly - removal and installation

Rear axle Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it securely on stands or 1 blocks placed under the bodyframe side members. Remove the

roadwheels. Position a jack under the rear axle differential carrier. 2 Disconnect the propeller shaft from the rear axle companion 3 flange. Push the shaft to one side and tie it up out of the way to the bodyframe. Disconnect the shock absorber lower mountings. 4 Disconnect the axle vent hose from the connector on the axle 5 casing and tie it to one side. Disconnect the hydraulic brake flexible hose from the axle casing 6 and plug the open pipes. 7 Remove the brake drums. Disconnect the parking brake cables from the actuating levers and 8 at the backplate (see Chapter 9). 9 Disconnect the rear spring U-bolts; remove the spacers and clamp Fig. 8.1

1

Pinion nut removal (semi-floating axle) (Sec 5)

plates.

Lower the jack under the differential and then remove the assembly from under the vehicle. 1

rear axle

1

Installation is a reversal of removal, but tighten the spring U-bolts

to the specified torque after the

roadwheels. 1 2 Bleed the brake hydraulic

weight of the vehicle

circuit as

described

in

is

again on the

Chapter

9.

Front axle 13 The operations are described

in

9

Fully-floating type axleshaft -

1

Unscrew and remove the

1 1

,

Section 12.

removal and installation

bolts which attach the axleshaft flange no need to remove the roadwheel or jack-up the the illustration, the roadwheel has been removed in the interest

to the hub. There car. In

Chapter

is

of clarity (Fig. 8.1).

Tap the flange with a soft-faced hammer to loosen the shaft and 2 then grip the rib of the face of the flange with a pair of self-locking grips, twist the shaft slightly in both directions and then withdraw it from the axle tube.

Fig.

8.12 Pinion

oil

seal installation (Sec 5)

Installation is a reversal of removal but hold the axleshaft level in 3 order to engage the splines at its inner end with those in the differential side gear. Always use a new gasket on the flange and keep both

the flange and hub mating surfaces free from grease or

oil.

Chapter 8 Front and rear axles

10 Hub/drum

assembly

(fully-floating

axle)

-

removal

and

2 3

Bend over the long tang of the retainer. 20 Install the axleshaft and lower the vehicle

Ibf

to the ground.

Remove

the axleshaft as described in the preceding Section. Jack-up the axle and remove the roadwheel.

Release the tang of the locknut retainer, and unscrew and remove the locknut from the axle tube. 4 Release the tang of the retainer from the adjusting nut and remove the retainer.

5

Unscrew and remove the adjusting

6

Remove

the thrust washer.

7

Pull the

hub/drum assembly straight off the end of the axle tube. drum can be removed separately after extracting

On some

axles, the

the countersunk retaining screws. Remove the oil seal and discard it. To further dismantle the hub, drive out the inner bearing, track and 9 oil seal using a long drift. 10 Extract the outer bearing snap-ring and drive out the outer bearing

and

its track.

On

axles where the brake drum is not secured independently by screws, the drum can be detached from the hub if necessary by pressing out the roadwheel studs. When reassembling this type of hub and drum make sure that the drain holes are in alignment and then apply an even coating of jointing compound to the hub oil deflector contact surface before locating the deflector to the drum. 12 Commence installation of the hub/drum assembly by first packing the bearings with the specified lubricant and also smearing it on the hub-to-axle tube contact surfaces. 13 Offer the hub/drum assembly to the axle tube, taking care not to

damage

the

oil

Fully-floating type axle

1 1

assembly - removal and

installation

The operations are type axle

in

similar to those described for the semi-floating Section 8 of this Chapter.

nut.

8

11

and the roadwheel will turn freely. 19 Install the tanged retainer; install the locknut and tighten to 65 ft.

installation

1

181

12 Freewheeling hub

(front

wheel drive

axle)

- removal and

installation

KW Series 1 Turn the actuator lever to set the hub to the 'Lock' position. Raise the vehicle on a suitable hoist or jack-up the appropriate 2 roadwheel. Loosen and remove the six retaining plate bolts. Remove the 3

knob and O-ring. Using suitable pliers, remove the internal snap-ring outer clutch retaining ring and the actuating cam body.

retaining plate actuating

4

6

Remove Remove

7

If

5

the axleshaft snap-ring. the pressure spring and spring retainer plate.

further dismantling

is

required,

remove the actuator knob and

seal.

14 Fit the thrust washer so that the internal tang engages in the groove on the axle tube. 15 Screw on the adjusting nut. 16 Before adjusting the hub bearings, make sure that the brakes are not dragging, then install the roadwheel. 17 Keep the roadwheel turning and tighten the adjuster nut to a torque wrench setting of 50 Ibf ft, then back-off the nut and retighten to 35 Ibf ft; finally back-off the nut | turn.

18 If this adjustment has been correctly carried out, the endplay will be between 0.001 and 0.010 inch, or if the tire is gripped top and bottom and the wheel pulled back and forth, there will be an almost imperceptible movement between brake drum and brake backplate 10

12 13

11

Fig.

8.13 Removing flange-to-hub bolts (fully-floating axle) (Sec 9)

FREE POSITION

Fig.

8.14 Cross-section of the K10 freewheeling hub assembly (Sec 12) Spring retainer plate Pressure spring Inner clutch ring and bushing assembly Axleshaft sleeve and clutch ring •assembly Outer clutch retaining ring Internal snap-ring

7

8 9

O-ring Retaining plate Retaining plate bolts and seals

10 Actuator knob 1

Axleshaft snap-ring

12 O-ring 13 Actuator cam body

Fig. 8.1

5 Typical hub key positions (Sec

1

2)

182"

SPRING RETAINER PLATE

INNER CLUTCH RING

HUB ASSEMBLY AXLE SHAFT

\

SNAP RING

PRESSURE

OUTER CLUTCH

SPRING

RETAINING RING AXLE SHAFT SLEEVE AND RING

O" RING ACTUATING

ACTUATOR KNOB "O" RING

CAM BODY

\

WASHER

INTERNAL SNAP RING

\

ACTUATOR

KNOB BUSHING

HUB RING RETAINING KNOB AXLE SHAFT

RETAINING PLATE BOLTS

SNAP RING GEAR HUB HOUSING

INNER CLUTCH GEAR

ACTUATING

CAM

INNER

PIN

GASKET (METAL)

ACTUATING

KNOB RETAINER DISHED

GASKET

WASHER RETAINER

SCREWS

ACTUATING

KNOB "O" RING ACTUATING

KNOB Fig.

8.16 Exploded view of the K10 and K20 freewheeling hubs (Sec 12)

Chapter 8 Front and rear axles the O-ring from the retaining plate. Slide the inner clutch ring and bushing assembly from the axle sleeve and clutch ring assembly. 8 Wash all parts in kerosene and dry with a lint-free cloth. Inspect all parts for signs of damage or wear, renewing as necessary.

9

Installation

is

the reverse of removal.

183

30 Install the exterior sleeve extension housing (with a new gasket) and the hub retainer cap assembly. 31 Install the Allen head bolts securing the retainer cap assembly to the wheel hub. 32 Turn the hub key knob to the 'Lock' position to ensure engagement.

K20

33

Series

roadwheel. 1 Turn the hub key knob to the 'Free' position. 12 Loosen and remove the Allen head bolts securing the retainer cap

assembly 1

3

to the

Roll off the

wheel hub. hub cap assembly and gasket; also remove the

exterior

retainer cap.

for signs of

22 Begin reassembly by

Raise the front of the vehicle so that the roadwheel hangs free. off the hub grease cap. Extract the snap-ring from the axleshaft. 3 4 On K10 or K1500 models, pull the splined drive flange from the shaft and hub and remove the spacer from the hub. On K20 or K2500 models, remove the stud nuts and washers and 5

withdraw the drive flange and gasket. Remove the bearing locknut, lockring and adjusting nut 6

end of the axleshaft. 23 Install a pre-lubricated O-ring in the groove of the knob and insert this into the retainer cap.

1 1

.20, Chapter

1 1

(refer to

for illustration).

,

Remove Remove

the roadwheel,

8

9

Remove

the flange plate from the steering knuckle and support the

hub and brake drum as an assembly. the bolts and lockwashers which hold the brake flange plate and spindle to the steering knuckle. lint-free cloth.

wear or damage, renewing as

installing the internal clutch

axleshaft

Tap

2

7

gear collar and

gear. Install the lockring at the

plate to avoid straining the hydraulic hose.

10 Slide the spindle from the shaft and withdraw the

hub key

axleshaft/joint

assembly. Installation

1

plastic

the lockring securing the plastic key knob to the hub Check to see that the lockring is fully engaged into the slot by pushing outward on the plastic knob. 25 Install the slotted adjustment sleeve with the two tabs facing

24

13 Front drive axle (K series) with drum brakes removal and installation

Fig.

8 Remove the O-ring from the plastic hub key knob. 1 9 Remove the snap-ring from the end of the axleshaft. 20 Pull off the internal clutch gear and collar. 21 Wash all parts in kerosene and dry them with a 1

components

the roadwheel and lower the vehicle to the ground.

1

sleeve extension housing. 14 If further dismantling is required, turn the hub key knob to the locked position and drive out the key knob retainer roll pin. 1 5 Remove the outer clutch gear assembly. 16 Remove the lockring and the slotted adjustment sleeve. Remove the spring. 17 Remove the lockring securing the plastic key knob to the hub

Inspect all necessary.

Finally, install

a suitable hoist, or jack-up the appropriate

10 Place the vehicle on

hold

it

is

a reversal of removal.

quite level to

engage

its

When

inserting the axleshaft,

splines with those

in

the differential

side gear.

Install

2 Tighten

1

all

bolts to the specified torque.

retainer cap.

downward. 26 Install the key knob

retaining

roll

pin with the

knob

in

the

Lock'

14 Front drive axle (K and installation

series) with disc

brakes- axleshaft removal

position. Install the spring.

clutch gear assembly on top of the spring, compress the spring and install the lockring at the sleeve end. 28 Turn the key knob to the Free' position. Note: Before continuing to install the extension housing and the assembled cap assembly, remove the head from a 5 inch long, f inch diameter bolt. Use this to align the assembly of the parts to the hub. 29 Install this bolt into one of the hub housing bolt holes.

27 Place the outer

1

1

a freewheel

If

hub hub

is fitted,

refer to Section 12.

refer to Chapter 11, Section 14, paragraphs 1 to 8. 3 Withdraw the axleshaft/joint assembly. 4 Installation is a reversal of removal but refer to paragraphs 22 to 33 of Section 12 (freewheel hub) or to paragraphs 21 to 30 of Section 14 in Chapter 11.

2

If

a

locked

is

fitted,

5 Fault diagnosis - front and rear axles

Symptom

Reason/s

Vibration

Worn

axleshaft bearing

Loose U-bolts (driveshaft to companion flange) Tires require balancing

Driveshaft out of balance

Noise on turns

Worn

differential

Noise on drive or coasting

Worn

or incorrectly adjusted ring

Worn Worn

differential

Clunk' on acceleration or deceleration

gear

and pinion gear

gear cross shaft

propeller shaft universal joints

Loose flange U-bolts

Chapter 9 Braking system Contents Brake disc - inspection and repair Brake drum - inspection and renovation Brake pedal - removal and installation Disc caliper (Bendix) - overhaul Disc caliper (Delco) - overhaul Drum brake wheel cylinder - removal, overhaul and

10 11

25 9 8 5

installation

Fault diagnosis- braking system (manual or vacuum-assisted) Fault diagnosis- braking system (Hydro-boost) Front disc brake pads (Bendix type) - inspection and renewal Front disc brake pads (Delco type) - inspection and renewal Front drum brakes -shoe inspection and renewal General description Hydraulic lines - inspection and renewal Hydraulic system - bleeding Hydra-boost (steering) system - bleeding

27 28 7

6 3 1

15 16 17

Hydro-boost unit - removal and installation Maintenance and adjustment Master cylinder (Bendix type) - removal, overhaul and installation Master cylinder (Delco type) - removal, overhaul and installation Parking brake (early models) - adjustment Parking brake hand control and cables (early models) removal and installation Parking brake (later models) - adjustment Parking brake pedal and cables (later models) removal and installation Pressure regulating combination valve - testing, removal and installation Rear drum brakes- shoe inspection and renewal Stoplamp switch - adjustment Vacuum booster unit - description and maintenance Vacuum booster unit - removal and installation

20 2

13 12 21

22 23

24 14 4

26 18 19

Specifications

System types and application Thru 1970

Four wheel drum, dual hydraulic circuit with vacuum booster. Parking brake mechanical to rear wheels Four wheel dual hydraulic circuit, disc front and drum rear. Vacuum booster except on some late models which have Hydro-boost unit operating in conjunction with power steering circuit. Parking brake

1971 on

mechanical to rear wheels

Torque wrench settings Master cylinder mounting nuts Vacuum booster mounting nuts

Ibfft .

.

.

.

.

.

25 22 25 140 35 25 22

Pedal pivot bolt Rear brake anchor pin Caliper

mounting

bolt

Hydro-boost mounting bolts Flexible hose to caliper Flexible hose to front wheel cylinder Hydro-boost inlet and outlet unions

1

General description

1

The braking system

15

25

Bendix made. The drum brakes are of duo-servo, single anchor pin type which means that they are self-energizing when the vehicle is in motion

of is

of four wheel, dual circuit hydraulic type

on

models. 2 Vehicles built through 1970 have four wheel self-adjusting drum brakes, while later models have front discs and rear drums. On the earlier models, the parking brake is operated by a hand 3 control while on later vehicles, a foot pedal is used. 4 On all models except some of the latest 1 ton versions the booster is of the vacuum servo type. On these heavier duty vehicles, the booster operates in conjunction with the power steering system and operates hydraulically. Some models with manual steering are provided with a power steering hydraulic pump purely to provide hydraulic pressure for the braking system (see Fig. 9.28). Generally, the braking equipment on vehicles with vacuum servo boosters is of Delco manufacture while the equipment used with hydro-boosters is all

5

either forwards or in reverse.

The disc brakes incorporate a single piston sliding caliper. All later models incorporate a pressure regulating combination valve which is located adjacent to the master cylinder. The purpose of this device is to meter the hydraulic pressure during heavy brake applications so that the front brakes are not applied in advance of the rear ones while the latter are overcoming the restriction of the shoe return springs. This makes for even braking on both front and rear 6 7

axles.

8

An

lamp.

is to sense pressure failure in to indicate this by illuminating a warning

additional function of the valve

either hydraulic circuit

and

Chapter 9 Braking system

185

do

2 1

this, knock out the oval shaped blanking plate in the web of the brake drum and insert a screwdriver to release the adjuster sprocket until the drum can be withdrawn clear of the shoes. Retrieve the blank-

Maintenance and adjustment The most important task with the braking system

is

to maintain

the master cylinder at the indicated level. Only use clean hydraulic fluid of the specified type for this purpose. At the intervals specified in Routine Maintenance at the beginning 2 of this manual, check the wear in the disc pads and shoe linings. Also at the specified intervals, check for hydraulic fluid leaks at all 3 the fluid level

in

pipe unions and hydraulic components; also check the condition of the and rigid pipes of the system. None of the brakes installed require adjustment. Disc calipers are 4 self-adjusting, drum brakes incorporate automatic adjusters which are actuated when the foot brake is applied when the vehicle is in forward or reverse motion, and the parking brake is adjusted automatically at flexible

the

same time

as the rear shoes.

from the

interior of the drum and discard it. A plug must be before reassembly. On no account depress the brake pedal while the drum is removed. 3 Inspect the thickness of the linings. With riveted linings, if the fric4 tion material is worn down to, or nearly down to, the rivets, renew the shoes as an axle set. With bonded linings, if there is only a thickness of ,3 inch of the friction material left, renew the shoes. If the friction linings are in good condition, brush away all dust 5 from the shoes and drum interior, taking care not to inhale it, then install the drum. If the automatic adjuster sprocket was turned, during 6 dismantling, rotate it in the opposite direction until the drum locks, then back it off until the drum is free to turn without drag. If the shoes are to be removed, disconnect the shoe return springs. 7

ing plate

fitted into the hole

Remove

the shoe hold-down springs. To do this, grip the dished pliers, depress it and turn it through 90°. Release it remove cup, spring and pin. Remove the actuating lever assembly. It is not recommended that

1

8 cap and 9

2

the assembly

3

Front drum brakes - shoe inspection and renewal

Raise the front of the vehicle and remove the roadwheels. Extract the drum securing screws and pull off the drum. If the drum cannot be withdrawn due to the shoe having worn a channel in the drum interior, the automatic adjuster will have to be released. To

with a pair of

is

dismantled.

10 Remove the shoes noting installed

carefully which way round they are with reference to the greater portions of shoe web not

PRIMARY

SHOE

WIRE LINK

OVERRIDE LEVER

OVERRIDE SPRING

RETURN SPRING STAR WHEEL Fig. 9.1

Brake master cylinder

fluid level

PAWL

(Sec 2)

Fig. 9.3 Typical front

Fig. 9.2

Releasing

drum brake automatic adjuster (Sec

3)

Fig.

drum brake assembly (Sec

3)

9.4 Removing shoe hold-down spring with special tool (pliers are equally satisfactory) (Sec 3)

Chapter 9 Braking system

186 covered by 1

its

12

lining material.

(a)

Remove

the star wheel adjuster, clean and lubricate fully retracted position. Install

the

new shoes

in

the

same

it,

and set

it

If

a fully-floating rear axle

is fitted,

refer also to

Release the locknuts from the parking brake equalizer so that all tension is removed from the brake cables when the

(c)

(d)

Disconnect the end of the parking brake cable from the parking brake lever and then disconnect the lever from the secondary brake shoe Remove any rust from the shoe sliding high points on the

(e)

If

control lever is fully off

brake backplate any oil contamination

PULL

hold-down springs. 14 Install the actuator and the anchor plate and install the wire link. Connect the actuator spring. Pry the brake shoes away from the brake backplate just enough to 1 5 be able to apply a smear of recommended brake grease to the rubbing

is

evident on the shoes or linings.

BACK SPRINGS

PRIMARY SHOE

surfaces on the backplate. 1 6 Turn the adjuster wheel until the shoes have been expanded to the point where the drum will only just pass over them into position. 1 7 Install the drum and the securing screws. 18 Make sure that the opposite brake drum is in position and then apply the footbrake hard several times. 19 Now check that the drum in which the new shoes have been installed can be turned with only an imperceptible drag. If the drum drags, release the star wheel until it is free. 20 Repeat all the foregoing operations on the opposite front wheel, then install the roadwheels and lower the vehicle.

FWD*

HOLD

SECONDARY SHOE

1

Rear drum brakes - shoe inspection end renewal The operations are very

AND

ACTUATING LEVER Fig. 9.5 Typical rear

WHEEL CYLINDER SECONDARY SHOE & LINING-

LINKS-

drum brake assembly

PIN

(right-hand) (Sec 4)

WHEEL CYLINDER SCREWS BACKING PLATE

SHOE GUIDEPARKING BRAKE STRUTSTRUT SPRING ADJUSTER LEVER-

ACTUATING

DOWN

SPRING

similar to those described in the preceding

Section, but observe the following differences:

LINK-

-WHEEL CYLINDER

PRIMARY SHOE AND LINING HOLD DOWN SPRING SCREW SPRING •—ADJUSTING SCREW I— ADJUSTING

BRAKE SHOE RETURN SPRING

-LEVER RETURN SPRINGS Fig.

8,

(b)

relative positions as the old

ones, keeping them free from oil and grease. Make sure that the star wheel adjuster is attached so that the wheel is nearer the secondary shoe. The star wheel adjusters are left-hand and right-hand; do not mix them up if both front brakes are being dismantled at the same time. Make sure that the tension spring just above the adjuster is installed so as not to interfere with the star wheel. 13 Engage the upper ends of the shoes with the wheel cylinder and with the anchor pin. Use a pair of needle nosed pliers to connect the

4

Chapter

Section 10

to

9.6 Exploded view of typical rear brake (Sec 4)

Chapter 9 Braking system

187

PUSH ROD

AND BOOT

PISTON

CUP RETURN SPRING WITH EXPANDERS

WHEEL CYLINDER HOUSING PISTON CUP PISTON CUP

BLEEDER

^

^W ^-

Fig.

SCREW

PISTON

PUSH ROD AND BOOT

9.8 Exploded view of a drum brake wheel cylinder (Sec 5)

HIICH5 Fig. 9.7

Drum brake backing

plate

showing shoe rubbing surfaces

the internal coil spring.

examine the interior of the cylinders (a small mirror is is any sign of scoring, or 'bright' wear areas are visible, then the cylinder must be renewed complete. To do this, disconnect the hydraulic line and unbolt the cylinder from the back-

(arrowed) (Sec 4)

6

At

this point,

useful for this).

If

there

plate.

Where

the

seals from

OUTER BRAKE SHOE

Fig.

9.9 Using a clamp to depress a caliper piston into (Sec 6)

If)

its

bore

determine whether it is hydraulic fluid or rear axle lubricant. If the former, overhaul the wheel operating cylinder as described later in this Chapter. If the latter, renew the oil seal after reference to Chapter 8 Lubricate the parking brake cable end and lever with brake lube

6

Drum

brake wheel cylinder - removal, overhaul and installa-

spring

1 At the intervals specified in Routine Maintenance, or whenever the roadwheels are removed, check the wear of the friction material on the

disc pads.

To do this, jack-up the car and remove the roadwheel. Check both ends of the outboard shoe by looking in at each end of the caliper. Then look down through the inspection hole in the caliper to check the inboard shoe. If the friction material has worn down to, or nearly down to, the rivets at either end of the pad, then the pads should be renewed as an axle set. 4 Syphon off some of the hydraulic fluid from the front compartment 2 3

master cylinder. An old hydrometer or syringe is useful for this is necessary to accommodate the rise in fluid level

operation, which

when

tion

wheel cylinder overhaul will usually arise if leakage of evident from the assembly. However, renewal of the cup seals is recommended in any event at 50 000 mile intervals. Jack-up the vehicle securely and remove the roadwheel, brake 2 drum and brake shoes as previously described. 3 Tape over the vents in the master cylinder reservoir cover to create a partial vacuum in the hydraulic circuit which is to be disconnected, thus preventing undue loss of fluid. 4 Pull out the wheel cylinder links (pushrods) from the wheel cylinder and remove the rubber boots. The piston assemblies will now be ejected under the pressure of 5 1

their

Front disc brake pads (Delco type) - inspection and renewal

of the

5

components

are in good condition, remove the cup expanders. Discard the seals. Obtain the appropriate repair kit which will contain all the renewable items. Wash all the internal parts in clean hydraulic fluid or denatured 8 alcohol. Never use mineral oil, solvents or kerosene when cleaning components of the brake hydraulic system. Using the fingers only, manipulate the new cup seals into position 9 on the spring expanders. 1 Dip the cup seals in clean hydraulic fluid, and insert the spring and seals into the cylinder. 1 Install the pistons, pushrods and boots. 12 Install the shoes and the drum, then bleed the appropriate hydraulic circuit as described in Section 16. Do not forget to remove the tape from the master cylinder vents before bleeding.

7

The need

hydraulic fluid

for is

the caliper piston is depressed. 5 A 7 inch clamp will now be required, located as shown in Fig. 9.9, with the non-adjustable side resting against the backing plate of the outboard pad. Tighten the clamp to move the caliper so that the piston can be depressed to the bottom of its bore. 6 Remove the clamp and observe that the disc pads are now backed off

7

from the

disc.

Unscrew and remove the two

caliper

mounting

bolts.

8 Lift the caliper from the disc and remove the inboard shoe. 9 Dislodge the outboard shoe and then tie the caliper to the front suspension arm with a piece of wire to prevent strain on the hydraulic flexible hose. 1

Extract the

pad support spring from the cavity

in

the piston.

Chapter 9 Braking system

188 1

1

Remove

the sleeves from the inboard ears of the calipers and then

extract the rubber bushings from

all

four caliper ears.

and obtain new sleeves and rubber bushings. If the caliper mounting bolts are corroded, renew these as well. 13 Commence reassembly by installing the new rubber bushings 12 Clean away

followed by the new sleeves. Make sure that the sleeves are installed with the end nearest the pads flush with the machined surface of the caliper ear.

shoe support spring so that the single tang end of the over the notch in the center of the edge of the pad. Now press the two tangs at the end of the inboard shoe spring over the bottom

14

Insert the

spring

is

edge of the pad. 15 Position the inboard pad complete with spring into the caliper so that the wear indicator is towards the rear of the caliper. 16 Position the outboard pad in the caliper so that the tab at the bottom of the pad is engaged in the cutout in the caliper. 17 Hold the caliper in position over the disc and screw the mounting bolts (smeared with lubricant) through the sleeves in the inboard ears and the mounting bracket. Pass the bolts through the outboard holes and tighten them to the specified torque. 1 8 Use self-locking grips to clinch the upper ears of the outboard pad flat

Front disc brake pads (Bendix type) - inspection and renewal

7

all dirt

against the caliper housing.

9.11

Method

of

to

4

of Section

If the friction material is worn down to, or nearly down to, the rivet heads, renew the disc pads as an axle set. Wipe or brush away all dirt, taking care not to inhale any of the 8

7

dust.

9

Smear silicone grease on the sliding surfaces of the caliper and new inboard pad clip, making sure that the loop of the spring away from the disc.

install a

10

Install

the inboard pad into the groove

in

the steering knuckle, and

the outboard pad into the caliper.

making sure that the flexible not twisted. 12 Tap the support key and spring into position, and screw in the lock

1

Position the caliper over the disc

hydraulic hose

is

SHOE

UNTIL

9.10 Installing a Delco type inboard disc pad and support spring (Sec

Delco type outboard disc pad (Sec 6)

1

Remove the inboard pad (its end rests in the steering knuckle). 5 Discard the pad clip. 6 Remove the outboard pad from the caliper. Note: If the original pads are to be re-installed, mark them so that they can be installed in their original position.

PUSH

Fig.

paragraphs

Using a clamp, move the caliper so that the piston is depressed to the bottom of its bore. Using a brass drift, drive out the caliper support key and spring. 3 4 Lift the caliper from the disc and tie it up to the suspension arm so that the hydraulic flexible hose is not strained.

DOWNWARD

Fig.

in

2

is

19 Apply the footbrake pedal several times to position the pads against the disc and then top-up the master cylinder reservoir with clean fluid which has been stored in an airtight container and has remained unshaken for the previous 24 hours. 20 Renew the disc pads on the opposite front brake.

Carry out the operations described

1

6.

IT

LAYS FLAT

6)

installing

Fig.

9.12 Method of installing Delco caliper mounting bolts (Sec 6)

Chapter 9 Braking system

189

tightening to the specified torque. Make sure that the boss on the engages with the cutout in the key. 13 Apply the brake pedal several times to position the pads against the disc and then top-up the fluid reservoir on the master cylinder using fluid which has been stored in an airtight container and has remained unshaken for the preceding 24 hours. 1 Repeat the operations on the opposite front brake.

bolt,

bolt

8

Disc caliper (Delco) - overhaul

1

Carry out the operations described

the caliper is removed from the disc. reservoir vents.

STEERING

KNUCKLE SPRING BRASS ROD

SUPPORT KEY

Fig.

9.13 Installing a caliper key (Bendix type) (Sec

7)

Section 6 to the point where Tape over the master cylinder

in

Mark the relative position of the flexible hose union to the caliper, 2 then unscrew and remove the bolt which secures the hose union to the caliper. Retain the bolt and the two copper sealing washers (one fitted each side of the union block). Cap the open end of the hose with plastic sheet and tape to prevent the entry of dirt. With the caliper removed, clean away all external dirt. 3 4 Place a pad of rag in the caliper to insulate the piston when it is ejected. To remove the piston, apply air from a tire pump to the fluid entry hole. Only gentle air pressure is required; a foot or hand operated pump is adequate. At this point, with the piston removed, inspect the surfaces of the 5 piston and cylinder. If there is any sign of scoring or bright' wear areas

CALIPER ASSEMBLY

fen

T31

D D D D

D D D D

Off

Q^ o-

leu

UoJ

NEW PAD

PISTON

INBOARD DUST BOOT Fig.

SPRING 9.14 Exploded view of Delco type disc caliper (Sec 8)

BRAKE SHOE

n

1

ROTOR VEAR SENSOR

Chapter 9 Braking system

190

then the caliper must be renewed complete. If the components are in good condition, discard the piston seal 6 and dust-excluding boot, and obtain a repair kit which will contain all the renewable items. 7 Wash the piston and cylinder bore in clean hydraulic fluid or denatured alcohol - nothing else. 8 Manipulate the new piston seal into its groove in the cylinder using the fingers only to do this. 9 Engage the new dust-excluding boot with the groove in the end of the piston; dip the piston in the hydraulic fluid and insert it squarely into the cylinder. Depress the piston to the bottom of the cylinder bore. 10 Seat the boot in the caliper counterbore using a suitable piece of

CALIPER

PISTON

BOOT SQUARE RING SEAL

-^S^ J&Pl SHOE CLIP

SUPPORT

tubing.

INBOARD SHOE

Connect the flexible hose to the caliper making sure that the copper gaskets are in position, and align the union fitting with the marks made before dismantling to ensure that the hose will not rub or

KEY

1

SPRING

"OUTBOARD SHOE

twist.

12 Install the caliper as detailed hydraulic circuit (see Section 1 6).

9 1

in

Fig.

Section 6, then bleed the front

9.15 Exploded view of Bendix type disc caliper (Sec 9)

Disc caliper (Bendix) - overhaul Refer to Section 7 and carry out the operations to the point where is removed from the disc. Tape over the master cylinder

the caliper

reservoir vents.

Mark the relative position of the flexible hose union to the caliper, 2 then unscrew and remove the bolt which secures the hose union to the caliper. Retain the bolt and the two copper sealing washers (one fitted each side of the union block). Cap the open end of the hose with plastic sheet and tape to prevent the entry of dirt. With the caliper removed, clean away all external dirt. 3 The overhaul operations are now as described in the preceding 4 Section for the Delco caliper, but note the detailed differences in components. When installing the piston push it only halfway down the cylinder 5 bore.

When the caliper 6 Section 16).

1

is

installed,

bleed the front hydraulic circuit (see

Fig. 9.1

Brake disc - inspection and repair

6 Checking a brake disc

for run-out (Sec

1

0)

The condition of the front brake discs is vital to braking efficiency. The disc should run true with a run-out limit of 0.005 inch. Any distortion can only satisfactorily be checked using a dial gauge. If runout is greater than that specified, renew the disc. 3 Light scoring is a normal condition, but deep grooves must be removed by either renewing the disc or having it ground professionally. If the latter course is adopted, the thickness of the disc must not be reduced beyond the figures shown. 1

2

Mark on Disc (minimum wear

Minimum thickness after

thickness)

refinishing

7.465 1.215

1.480 1.230

0.965

Make

0.980 sure that both sides of the ventilated type disc are ground

equally.

4 is

Removal and described

in

combined front hub/disc assembly together with adjustment of the wheel

installation of the

Chapter

1 1

bearing.

5 Whenever a new hub/disc assembly is installed, remove the protective grease from the disc with a gasoline soaked rag before installing the disc pads. Fig.

1 1

Brake drum - inspection and renovation

have

9.17 Checking the internal diameter of a brake drum (Sec

it

refinished by a service station.

drum must not exceed the 1

for cracks

After high mileage,

drum

to

wear oval in measured

satisfactorily

maximum 3

shown

The

internal

are removed, they should be cleaned and deep grooves.

possible for the inside diameter of the shape. The degree of ovality can only be it

is

using

an

internal

type

micrometer.

The

out-of-round is 0.006 inch. Where any of these conditions are found, either renew the drum or

Mark on drum (maximum wear

Maximum

diameter)

diameter after refinishing

11.090 12.090 13.090

11.060 12.060 13.060

)

diameter of the

after finishing.

Whenever the brake drums

and examined 2

figures

1

internal

Chapter 9 Braking system 4

If

new brake drum is being installed, always clean from the inside before installing it.

a

tive oil

off the protec-

The

all necessary renewable components includ(completely assembled) primary piston. 10 Install new seals in the grooves of the secondary piston using the fingers only to manipulate them into position. The front seal must have its lip towards the pointed end of the piston. Make sure that the seal protector is in position. The seal which has the smallest internal diameter is the front seal. The second seal should be installed on the secondary piston so 1 that its lips face the pointed end of the piston. The third seal should be installed in the rear groove of the secondary piston so that its lips face the flat end of the piston. 12 Apply clean hydraulic fluid to the cylinder bores and to the piston assemblies. 13 Install the secondary piston spring over the pointed end of the

repair kit will contain

ing a

12 Master cylinder (Delco type) - removal, overhaul and

installa-

tion

Disconnect the brake pipes from the master cylinder and cap the of the pipes to prevent entry of dirt. Unbolt the master cylinder from the power booster. As the master 2 cylinder is removed, take care not to drip hydraulic fluid onto the paintwork or it will act as an effective paint stripper! Clean away all external dirt and remove the reservoir cover. Pour 3 out the hydraulic fluid and discard it. 4 Use a rod to depress the primary piston to eject the hydraulic fluid from the master cylinder. Inspect the bottom of the front fluid reservoir. If a stop bolt is 5 visible, unscrew and remove it. 6 Secure the master cylinder in a vise fitted with jaw protectors and then extract the snap-ring from the end of the cylinder. 7 Extract the primary piston, and the secondary piston and spring. The latter can be ejected by applying air pressure at the front fluid 1

ends

191

new

secondary piston, and insert the assembly into the master cylinder bore. Take care not to trap or distort the seal lips. Insert the primary piston and pushrod (complete with retainer) into 1 the master cylinder bore. Exert pressure on the pushrod and install the snap-ring.

Fit

the stop bolt.

15 Fill the master cylinder reservoirs with clean hydraulic fluid which has been stored in an airtight container and has remained unshaken for at least

24

hours.

16 Depress the primary piston two or three times using

outlet.

Examine the surfaces of the cylinder bore and the secondary piston. If there is evidence of scoring or 'bright' wear areas, renew the master cylinder complete. If the components are in good condition, wash in clean hydraulic 9 fluid. Discard all rubber components and the primary piston complete.

8

until

17

a thin rod the cylinder is filled with fluid. Install the master cylinder to the booster and reconnect the brake

pipes.

Bleed the system as described

1

1

in

Section

1

6.

3 Master cylinder (Bendix type) - removal, overhaul and installa-

tion

Remove

1

the master cylinder from the booster unit as described

the preceding Section. Tip out the fluid from the reservoirs and discard 2

Unscrew and remove the

3

in

it.

four bolts which secure the

body

to the

reservoir.

Remove the small 0-ring and the two compensating valve seals 4 from the recesses on the underside of the reservoir. Do not remove the two small filters unless they are damaged and require renewal. 5 Depress the primary piston with a thin rod, then remove the compensating valve poppets and springs. Fig.

SECONDARY

9.18 Typical mounting of master cylinder (Delco type) to booster (Sec 12)

SEALS

PRIMARY SEAL

LOCK RING

-saw Fig.

TUBE SEAT INSERTS

SPRING'

Jb

SPRING RETAINER^ PRIMARY SEAL

9.20 Delco master cylinder secondary piston seals (Sec 12)

^

>&

SECONDARY PISTON SECONDARY SEALS

Fig.

9.19 Exploded view of Delco master cylinder (Sac 12)

Fig.

9.21

Typical

mounting of master cylinder (Bendix type) (Sec 13)

Chapter 9 Braking system

192

Extract the snap-ring from the end of the master cylinder and pull 6 out the piston assemblies. Inspect the surfaces of the pistons and cylinder bore for scoring or 7 bright' wear areas. If these are evident, renew the master cylinder

complete. If the components are in good condition, renew the seals or obtain 8 completely assembled new piston assemblies. Clean all parts in hydraulic fluid or denatured alcohol - nothing 9

else

I

10 Install the secondary spring (shorter one) into the open end of the secondary piston actuator, then install the piston return spring onto the projection at the rear of the secondary piston. Insert the secondary piston assembly (actuator end first) into the 1 master cylinder and depress it fully. 12 Dip the primary piston into the hydraulic fluid and insert it (actuator end first) into the master cylinder. 13 Depress the pistons with a thin rod so that the snap-ring can be installed.

14

the compensating valve seals and the 0-ring into the

Install

reservoir recesses.

15 Hold the pistons depressed and install the compensating valve springs and poppets, then secure the reservoir, tightening the bolts to the specified torque. 16 Install the master cylinder to the booster and bleed the system as described in Section 16.

14 Pressure regulating combination valve -

testing,

removal and

installation Fig.

9.22 Bendix master cylinder used (Sec 13)

in

Hydro-boost system 1 This device is located adjacent to the brake master cylinder and incorporates the dual hydraulic circuit pressure differential valve and

COVER DIAPHRAGM FILTER

RESERVOIR

COMPENSATING VALVE SEAL

"

VALVE POPPET -SPRING

SECONDARY

SPRING

SECONDARY

PISTON

PISTON RETURN SPRING

PRIMARY PISTON

BODY

SNAP RING Fig.

9.23 Exploded view of Bendix master cylinder (Sec 13)

Chapter 9 Braking system

193

SWITCH TERMINAL

FROM MASTER

FROM MASTER CYLINDER

CYLINDER

TO REAR BRAKES

TO FRONT BRAKES

Fig.

9.24 Pressure regulating combination valve (Sec 14)

Fig.

9.25 Typical front hydraulic brake hose (Sec

1

5)

Fig. Fig.

9.26 Flexible brake hose retainer (Sec 15)

9.27 Bleeding a front wheel brake cylinder (Sec

1

6)

The spring steel shield which is designed to protect the rigid hydraulic lines must be installed after a new length of line has been inserted in the circuit.

8

the warning lamp switch.

Any fault developing in the assembly can only be rectified by renewal. Bleed the hydraulic system after installing the new component. 2

1

6 Hydraulic system - bleeding

Whenever

the hydraulic system is disconnected (to remove or air will enter the fluid lines and bleeding must be carried out. This is not a routine operation and if air enters the system without any repair operations having been carried out, then the cause must be sought and the fault rectified. 2 When applying the foot brake pedal, if the first application causes the pedal to go down further than usual but an immediate second or third application (pumping) reduces the pedal travel and improves the braking effect, this is a sure sign that there is air in the system. 3 Use only clean hydraulic fluid (which has remained unshaken for 24 hours and has been stored in an airtight container) for topping-up the master cylinder reservoirs during the following operations. Make sure that the reservoirs are kept topped-up during the whole of the bleeding operations, otherwise air will be drawn into the system and the whole sequence of bleeding will have to be repeated. 4 With a vacuum servo booster installed, depress the brake pedal several times to destroy the vacuum. 5 The brakes should be bled in the following order - right rear, left rear, right front, left front. If only one hydraulic circuit has been 'broken' then this circuit only need be bled but where the master cylinder or pressure differential valve has been removed and installed then obviously the complete system will require bleeding. 6 Push a length of plastic or rubber hose onto the bleed valve of the 1

install a

1

5 Hydraulic lines - inspection and renewal

examine

all hydraulic brake lines, both rigid and chafing and general deterioration. Also check the security of the unions. Before disconnecting any of the hoses or pipes, tape over the 2 1

Periodically,

flexible, for rusting,

vents

in

the master cylinder reservoir cover. This will create a partial loss of hydraulic fluid at the point of disconnec-

vacuum and prevent tion.

To disconnect a rigid line from a flexible hose, unscrew the connector out of the hose end fittings. These connectors are located at the support brackets. Always hold the flexible hose end fitting quite still using an open-ended wrench. 4 To remove the flexible hose, extract the U-shaped retainer from the hose end fitting and pull the hose from the support bracket. Unscrew the bolts which secure the end of the flexible hose to a 5 caliper unit, or unscrew the hose end fitting from the connector on the differential carrier as the case may be. Installation is a reversal of removal, but if possible use new copper 6 gaskets in conjunction with the flexible hose end fittings and always let the flexible hose take up its natural curvature; never secure it in a 3

twisted or kinked position. Rigid lines which need to be renewed can be purchased at most service stations. Take the old pipe as a pattern and make sure that the pipe* have the correct connectors and that their ends are double-

7

flared.

component)

brake which is to be bled. 7 Immerse the open end of the hose in a jar containing sufficient hydraulic fluid to keep the end of the hose well covered. 8 Unscrew the bleed valve one quarter-turn and have an assistant depress the brake pedal to the full limit of its travel. 9 Gently retighten the bleed valve and have the brake pedal return to its stop with the foot of the assistant completely removed.

first

194'

K

Fig.

MODELS

9.28 Arrangement of power steering hoses (Sec 17)

(A) In conjunction with Hydro-boost brake system (B) With manual steering but using power steering type hydraulic

pump

_.

Chapter 9 Braking system 10 Again release the bleed valve and repeat the operation. Air will be seen being expelled from the open end of the hose beneath the fluid in the jar. Carry out the process until no further air bubbles appear and finally tighten the bleed valve when the pedal is fully depressed. 1 Remove the bleed hose and transfer it to the next brake, but before repeating the bleeding operation, check and top-up the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. Use clean fluid, not that which has been bled from the system which must (later) be discarded. 1 Repeat the operations on the remaining brakes in sequence. 13 Finally top-up both the master cylinder reservoirs to within •£ inch of the top.

14 Never allow hydraulic of the vehicle as

1

it

fluid to

come

in

contact with the paintwork

7 Hydro-boost (steering) system - bleeding

1 On vehicles equipped with a brake booster which is operated in conjunction with the power steering system or pump, the bleeding of the brake hydraulic system is carried out as described in the preceding Section. The steering hydraulic booster system however should be oled in the following way whenever lack of power assistance indicates the need for it. 2 If the power steering fluid has foamed due to low fluid level, first park the vehicle with the reservoir cap removed until the foam has

cleared.

4

Top-up the power steering reservoir cap off.

the roadwheels are clear of the

until

When the reservoir will accept no more fluid, reconnect the 6 primary lead and start the engine. Depress the brake pedal several times while EXISTING WtRlNGWlRiNG FART CP EQUIPMENT AIR CONDITION l*J6

Fig.

© TO L

MED

B TO L

^iPiiSkS

10.67 1968 C/K series 1500 and 2500 and CE/CS 3500

air

BATTCRV

TO NOME

LOW HIGH

ruse pang.

CONTACTS p.

UMPOSCD

conditioning wiring diagram

1

M

6TDLIH

232'

Instrument

Fig. 10. 68 A

1968 C/K

series

1500 and 2500 and CE/CS 3500 (except Suburban) instrument panel wiring diagram

233

Instrument Panel Wiring-Except Cowl, Panel

Fig.

V.

and Suburban-CE/CM/CS/KE/KM-1 500-2500; CE/CM/CS-3500-T-5292

10.68B 1968 C/K series 1500 and 2500 and CE/CS 3500 (except Suburban) instrument panel wiring diagram

234

Fig.

10.69A 1973 C10. 20. 30 and K10. 20 wiring diagram

235

i

i6B-i05f-» 5R.ICE-2-V

— 'C=-2C

"^.

< FUStBL£ L1N

— 20Y-7B*-l4D/BPH-2B-,J =- if "-

MTR.

I

-

SOL

•

Fig.

10.69B 1973 C10, 20, 30 and K10, 20 wiring diagram

236

03

3BE

Fig.

V

10.69C 1973 C10, 20. 30 and K10, 20 wiring diagram

237

TOME LAMPS BLAZER RP0-C88

— — IflrXVlQ-* I8LG-24 18

8RN -9—

(6 Y- 18

sir

Fig.

10.69D 1973 C10. 20, 30 and K10, 20 wiring diagram

s-

TO REAR END WIRING HARN

^CONNECTOR

238"

& MARKER

A

ft

MKR LP TtRM

LAMPS

TERM^LL

J_ J

J_J MKR LP

.

-^

SOCKET

SOOKET

/SHEET ML TALGRD

L-iee-iso-^

y4*

-I8B-I50 TERM '

1

TERM ^ I8B-45C

-I8B-45B-

L-ieB-iso-^Ti

1

! IN

'

isb-iso

TERM-^|\

ft

—

SmEE

T

Mf TAL

uRD

socket^ TE

j*l

I86-45D-

-I8B-43E

•I8B-45A-

^

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TO LIGHT

—

>=

I8B-I50 TERM SHEET METAL GRD

TERM

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ROOF MARKER LAMF RPO-LlOl

FRT CORNER MKR LAMP

16

B

FRT CORNER MKR LAMP

^m)

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SPLCE-9

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I8BRN-9B

—^

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I8LG-24A 4^I8LG-24C ee-isoe— SPLICE-150-

__--

•I8B-I50C-

I8BRN-9 I8BRN-9B

^//L..i8BRN-9F

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188-150

c

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CONVECTOR ASM

RADIO-TAPE

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,

Fig.

10.71 E 1973

C 10,

20, 30 and K10. 20,

RPO equipment wiring

diagram

T

LREC TAPE EQUIPMENT

246

Fig.

10.72A 1977 C/K

10. 20.

30 cab. engine and chassis wiring diagram

247

Fig.

10.72B 1.977 C/K 10, 20, 30 cab, engine and chassis wiring diagram

248"

-2989595 TERM

-I8UGRN-24-I8BRN-9 -I8YEL-I8

I8 0K0RN-I9-

Fig.

10.72C 1977 C/K 10, 20. 30 cab, engine and chassis wiring diagram

249

P8WHT-I56C

rtl56]

E?«" SW

Fig.

V.

10.72D 1977 C/K 10, 20, 30 cab, engine and chassis wiring diagram

250"

—^mfe—

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LAMP

jfl)&OCK£Tfl(JJ

JL

JL LIC

TAIL -

\jm .891 1029*1 -J

[-I8B - 90—QO"i8BRN-9e-' r-l8B-9G—(p

LIC

STOP 8 OIR- Si MKR 8AJ LAMP

LAMP WITH

RPO BUMPER

TAIL-STOP S DIR-

SI

MKR

B/U LAMP,.

FLEETSIDE PICK UP

RPO E63 ENGINE

WRG HARNESS 6288440^ I8T

TAIL

-STOP 8 B/U

DIR -SI

—

fic)

65

LIC

MKR

I8T-HDT

^^-8911220

LAMP

TAIL- STOP S DIR -SI 8/U LAMP

LAMP

MKR

SUBURBAN BLAZER

Fig.

V

10.73A 1977 C/K

10, 20.

30 RPO and

rear

lamp wiring diagram

&.

252

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TAIL-STOPS. DIR

LAMP

B/U LP

LIC

LAMP

LlC

LAMP

WITH BUMPER

STEPSIDE PICK UP

RPO-E62

I8BRN I6LTGRN-ti^4 I8DK.GRN 18

6288566 RE AR CCNN -TAIL 4 STOPLAMP FRONT EXT WIRE

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