Wild Guide Balearic Islands: Hidden Adventures in Mallorca, Menorca, Ibiza & Formentera 1910636282

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Balearic Islands Hidden adventures in Mallorca, Menorca, Ibiza & Formentera

New from the award-winning Wild Guide series, with 400 secret adventures and 150 wilder places to eat and sleep. Taking you to places no other guidebook reaches. •

Hike down dramatic ravines to deserted beaches with clear turquoise waters

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Scan the ocean from bronze age cave dwellings high in the cliffs

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Discover smugglers’ sea caves accessed by secret entrances

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Watch the sunset whilst enjoying fresh fish cooked over a fire in the best chiringuito beach bars

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Kayak around uninhabited islands from wide, white beaches

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Explore ancient forests, wild headlands and stunning salt flats

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Stay in medieval farmhouses among olive groves

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Discover the hidden side of these popular islands, from deserted beaches, plunging cliffs and emerald coves to mountain peaks, caves and ancient ruins. Step back into history to explore lost ruins, forts and watch towers. Eat fresh local food next to the sea and sleep out under the stars. This inspiring travel compendium reveals the most exciting places to eat, sleep and explore in Mallorca, Menorca, Ibiza & Formentera. Featuring stunning photography, detailed maps and engaging travel writing, this is the perfect guide for wild adventures and ultimate escapes.

£18.99

9 781910 636282 9 781910 636282

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Sisters Anna Deacon and Lizzie Graham are wild swimmers and adventure seekers. Lizzie has lived off-grid in Mallorca for over 20 years and leads mountain treks on rescue horses, as featured in The Sunday Telegraph. Author and photographer Anna lives in Scotland, has written for The Guardian, The Scotsman & Stylist and is the author of four books.

Inside the Wild Guide water Boat / kayak Islands Jump or rope swing

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Secret beach

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Ancient forest

Great swimming Snorkelling

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land & wildlife Sunsets or hilltop Lost ruins or folly Sacred site Ancient site Cave or cavern

Local wine Picnic spot

Amazing wildlife Amazing birdlife Scramble

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sleep

food Local food

Magical meadow

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Wilder campsites

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Uncertain access

Rustic hideaway Mountain refuge

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general Great for kids Adventurous / hazards Lovely walk Cycling Secluded / remote Strenuous walk

Popular / busy Entrance fee Secret / lesser known Romantic / dramatic Horse riding

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U K £ A * x

Balearic Islands Hidden adventures in Mallorca, Menorca, Ibiza & Formentera Anna Deacon and Lizzie Graham

Es Vedrà Viewpoint p63

Torre d’Aubarca p178

Contents

Regional overview . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Route finding & safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

best for Hidden coves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Cliff jumps & sea caves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Uninhabited islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Hilltops and views . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Ancient & sacred . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Exploring land caves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Hikes & coastal walks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Wildlife & nature reserves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Beach food . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Sleeping & stargazing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

chapters Formentera & Ibiza overview . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Mallorca overview . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 Menorca overview . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182 Acknowledgements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228

Regional Overview

1 Formentera

38

2 Ibiza South

50

IBIZA 2 4

3 Ibiza Central

66

4 Ibiza North

78

5 Mallorca West

94

6 Mallorca South

112

7 Mallorca North

130

8 Mallorca Central

148

9 Mallorca East

164

10 Menorca West

184

11 Menorca Central

198

12 Menorca East

212

XX 3

XX 2

p91

p77

p65

XX 1

p49

FORMENTERA

XX 11 XX 10

XX 7

XX 12

p225

p147

XX 9 XX 5

p197

p211

p181

p111

MENORCA XX 8

p163

Palma

XX 6

p129

MALLORCA

7

Sa LacPedrera du Lauzon dep251 Cala D’Hort p55

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Introduction We fell in love with the Balearic islands on our first visit two decades ago, when we discovered a side to them that we hadn’t heard or read about, entirely at odds with their touristy reputation. We were entranced by the ever-changing landscapes, the olive groves, vineyards, dry-stone walls, breathtaking turquoise water, luscious green forests and limestone cliffs, by the smell of jasmine on the air and the jingling of distant goat bells. That summer we lay out like lizards in the sun in hidden coves, diving off the rocks into the deep blue sea, then in the evenings we sat in church squares filled with villagers young and old, who ate and chatted into the night. Lizzie moved to Mallorca and has never looked back, now living in an off-grid finca in the mountains within the natural park on the Llevant peninsula, raising her three boys and exploring the mountains on horseback as a guide. Anna has visited more times than we can count, and together we have explored all the islands, looking for hidden gems following local tip-offs or rumours and scouring maps: some we have never found and remain a mystery, while others we go back to again and again. A family of islands The more we got to know them, the more these beguiling islands also seemed like sisters, with so much in common yet each so uniquely itself. Mallorca is the largest, approximately 100km from east to west, with dramatic mountain ranges, rolling plains and endless white, sandy beaches. Menorca, a couple of hours by ferry to the east, is less than a quarter of the size and quieter and more relaxed, with a coastal path winding right round all its beautiful beaches and coves. Yet smaller is Ibiza or Eivissa a couple of hours south-west of Mallorca, with a colourful reputation but a different kind of wild side that is utterly entrancing. All of these have airports, but the smallest sister, Formentera, can only be reached by 9

Aiguille SunrisePerceé over the p144 Trumuntana mountains, Mallorca

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boat from nearby Ibiza. The pace of life on this gorgeous island is slow, with a hippy vibe and no big towns. There are another 147 tiny uninhabited islands in the archipelago; some, such as Cabrera and Sa Dragonera, can be visited. Finding adventure Almost all the tourist areas on the islands are contained in beach resorts, designed to keep holiday-makers entertained within them. Wild beauty remains protected and hidden, waiting to be discovered by those prepared to hike up goat tracks, through pine forests and along empty, rocky coastlines. We have travelled by foot, bike, car, horse and kayak: some of these destinations require caution and common sense, but a bit of adventure makes us healthier and happier travellers. This Wild Guide will help you find it. On the coast, beyond the popular beaches are stretches kept quieter by the hike needed to reach them, sea caves and hidden coves with warm rocks to lie on. The turquoise waters that lap their shores are rinsed crystal clear by Posidonia oceanica, or Neptune’s grass, a seaweed that often washes up on beaches. Popular beaches clear this away, but it’s best left to follow its natural cycle, enriching and cleansing the marine environment, much of which is now internationally protected. Diving and snorkelling here is a dream because of it. The ‘pine islands’ to the ancient Greeks, the Balearics have forestclad peaks, otherworldly salt flats and dramatic gorges. These are home to all kinds of wildlife, some found only here. There are natural parks large and small, and paths to explore them all. Scattered across them you will find markers of the islands’ long and rich history: there are the unique and ancient talaiots, Phoenician tombs, Roman forts, remote monasteries and coastal watchtowers guarding against pirate attacks. Seasonal rhythms Life on the islands follows the same natural rhythm year after year. Spring begins in February when the almond trees are in full 11

Cala Rafalet p219

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bloom, wildflowers explode with vibrant colours and a warm breeze signals that summer is on its way again. Summer days are long, hot and lazy, a time for indulgent siestas after lunch, with everything closing until early evening. Early mornings and late afternoons are perfect times to go in search of a hidden cove, and in the evenings the rural towns come alive with local families dining al fresco into the night. Autumn is the time to gather in harvests of grapes and figs, almonds and apricots. There is a sense of relief when the first rains come and the desert-dry landscape returns to a lush green; the sea is still warm enough for swimming and the air now cool enough for all-day exploring along mountain or coastal paths. The sun still shines brightly throughout the winter, and even the most popular beaches are empty and wild, so this is the best time to enjoy the quiet of the islands and snuggle by cosy fires in local restaurants dining slow-food style. The visiting season is heralded each year by the sunbeds going out on Easter weekend and closes when everything is packed away at the end of October; we love the islands most during the quiet period from autumn to spring. Celebration & food Celebration is a huge part of life all year, and scarcely a week goes by without a local fiesta for some historical event, rural tradition or religious day. The islanders love to visit neighbouring towns or hop between islands, so they don’t miss out on any of them. The festivals include musicians, giants, traditional dancing, chasing devils, riding horses through the towns, juggling fire and plenty of food and wine. Throughout the islands there are many different local cuisines, all using the abundant produce from these rich and fertile islands and intricate recipes passed down through the generations. Families and friends gather to harvest the grapes for wine in September. Matanzas are also very popular, where every scrap of the family pig is put to use, making traditional sausages like spicy sobrasada, and even the lard is used in pastries such as coca de patate or the sweet spirals of ensaimada. Foraging is very much ingrained into local culture, with locations of wild asparagus and mushrooms a well-kept secret, and on misty mornings snails are picked from wet grass and turned into a local delicacy. The Balearic islands remain unique destinations for seekers of wild places, explorers of caves, mountain tops and underwater worlds. They are all here, waiting to be found by dreamers who long to lie under a million stars, to float in clear azure water, to walk for miles on powder-soft sand or to lose themselves in mountains and forests. We hope you find your own paradise here, just like we have. Anna & Lizzie 13

Route finding & safety Each wild place can be located using the overview map provided at the end of each chapter, along with the detailed directions, but to be sure of finding the right spot you can use the latitude and longitude provided. This is given in decimal degrees (WGS84) correct to 10m and can be entered into any online mapping program or app such as Google Maps. Approximate one-way walk-in times are given unless it is a circuit. Remember, return routes downhill will often take less time than the outward ascent. Abbreviations in the directions refer to left and right (L, R) and north, east, south and west (N, E, S, W). Official routes have red signs showing the way, but many routes shown are small trails and may be marked with paint on rocks, or not marked at all. If walking to a remote location always carry plenty of water and , food, wear suncream and stay out of the sun in heat of the day. Tell someone where you are going. Don’t rely purely on your , mobile phone to navigate or to summon help. However, in an emergency, call 112 for emergency services if you can. Check the forecast. The weather can change fast, with , frequent electrical storms and torrential downpours, often after a fine morning. Don’t get caught in an exposed location. Never attempt a hike along any of the Barranc’s/ravines if there is any rain forecast as these can easily turn into raging torrents of water with high sides and no escape. Be careful to check for recent rockfall or erosion. Some routes , listed may change and become dangerous if rockfall blocks the way or damages the path, particularly in coastal locations. Mirador Es Colomer p145 14

Wild & responsible It’s a privilege to be able to enjoy such stunning natural surroundings, please treat nature with respect. Ensure you ‘leave no trace’ and note the following:

1.

There are several National Parks and other designated protected nature areas. Local signs will let you know the restrictions in place. Dogs must be kept on a lead in all national parks and beaches, although you may walk your dog offleash between November and February.

2.

Take all litter away with you and also help out by collecting other people’s rubbish.

3.

Park considerately and don’t block passing places on single-track roads.

4.

Wildfires are a major hazard; there is a strict no fire rule across all the islands.

5.

Camping is not allowed on the islands, except in designated camping areas or campsites.

6.

If you have to go to the toilet in the wild make sure you are at least 50m from water; bury your waste and take all toilet paper and sanitary products away with you.

7.

No swimming is allowed in the reservoirs.

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Best for Hidden coves The combined Balearic islands have over 1,000km of coastline, and all along them there are coves empty of people and full of charm just waiting to be discovered. The further you have to hike to find one, the more deserted you can expect it to be, incrementally rewarding you for your effort. These tiny coves or inlets backed by pine forests are known as calas and are great for snorkelling and jumping off rocks. The most unlikely of paths can set you rambling through a wood, scrambling over a gate, meandering through a field then scrabbling down a steep descent where your breath will be taken away, not by the hike itself, but by the sheer beauty of a cove revealing itself to you for the first time. Take everything you might need with you on trips like this: by definition there will be no facilities, no drinking water and often no shade. The best plan is often to stay until the sunset has finished its fabulous show – always remembering you have to find your way back!

Cales Coves, Menorca p16 Cala Es Talaier, Menorca p188 Macarelleta, Menorca p189 (pictured) Cala de Llucalari, Menorca p201 Cala en Baster, Formentera p43 Cala Blanca, Ibiza p70 Cala Mastella, Ibiza p85 Cala Boquer, Mallorca p134 Caló d’en Monjo, Mallorca p99 Cala del Toro, Mallorca p98 Cala Varques, Mallorca p115

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Best for Cliff jumps & sea caves Why is a cave mouth such an irresistible invitation to explore, or a rocky, wave-cut ledge above deep blue water such a prompt to jump? Caves have always drawn people in, and swimming into one is particularly thrilling. There is nothing like floating inside an ancient, echoing chamber, with luminous waters rolling and thumping against the walls like timpani drums, and silver darts of fish teasing you. These islands offer plenty of opportunities to indulge. There are different levels of cliff-jumping, all of them widely available across this hugely varied archipelago. There’s the simplest joy of jumping off a low ledge into deep water and surfacing with a giggle and a splutter. Then there’s watching others take the high jumps, plunge into the depths and re-emerge thrilled, and steeling yourself to follow suit. Both of these require a bit of common sense, because caves can be low and their waters cold, and waters that look deep can be deceptive. Another option is to go with professionals and spend a day coasteering in places you could not reach alone – often flinging yourself wildly from great heights with safety equipment and precautions firmly in place. Whichever you choose, please be careful!

Sa Calobra, Mallorca p133 Cala Tarida, Ibiza p56 Cueva de los Sastres, Ibiza p59 Ullal de na Coloms, Ibiza p70 (pictured) Cala Llombards, Mallorca p119 Cala En Brut, Menorca p192 Sa Cova des Pardals, Menorca p193 Cala de Xarraca, Ibiza p82 Cala Varques, Mallorca p115 Cova de Tres Boques, Menorca p193

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Be safe

w

1 Never swim alone and ideally join an organised trip. 2 Wear a helmet, wetsuit, trainers and buoyancy aid. 3 Caves amplify swell as they narrow, sometimes bumping you on their ceiling, so enter only when the sea is calm . 4 Never jump or dive into water unless you have checked it for depth and obstructions. When looking down, water always appears deeper than it is. 5 Swim within the shelter of coves and bays unless you understand the tidal streams at headlands and in the open sea. 6 Walk your route first and identify escape routes from the sea. 7 Do not approach seals or pups.

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Best for Uninhabited islands The Balearic archipelago has 147 uninhabited islands and islets. Many of them sit quite close to shore, perfect for exploring by kayak or SUP, or even near enough to swim or snorkel out to. Much of the water around them is protected, and some designated as UNESCO Marine Heritage sites, due to the dense Posidonia oceanica (seagrass). An endemic species, it clears the water and provides shelter for a wonderful array of marine life. You can take boat trips to some of the islands, such as Cabrera or S’Espalmador, and enjoy finding deserted buildings, spotting wildlife that enjoys the isolation and exploring caves and beaches. Others are best reached by kayak or SUP, like Illa d’en Colom off Menorca, or Tagomago off Ibiza. Illa de l’Aire off Menorca is home to a lighthouse and also the sargantana negra, an endemic lizard that can camouflage itself by changing colour. Some of the tiny islets lie just offshore and hold secret caves or hidden communal burial sites from the Bronze Ages, and some have mystical associations, perhaps none more than Es Vedrà off Ibiza, the home of sirens from Greek mythology and birthplace of the Phoenician goddess Tanit.

Playa de S’Illot, Mallorca p137 (pictured) Parc Nacional de l’Arxipèlag de Cabrera, Mallorca p127 Sa Dragonera Natural Park, Mallorca p108 Illa d’Alcanada, Mallorca p137 Es Vedrà Viewpoint, Ibiza p63 Caló de S’Illa, Ibiza p81 S’Espalmador, Formentera p41 Illa d’en Colom, Menorca p222 Illa de l‘Aire, Menorca p222 Tagomago (from Platja d’es Figuera), Ibiza p84

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Best for Hilltops & views The urge to see far and wide, from a high hill or a long promontory, is a strong one. The Balearic islands have scores of giddy clifftops that will lure you, and the views will never disappoint. Hot and tiring scrambles to hilltops, perhaps with a monastery or castle, will reward you with sweeping vistas across undulating landscape right out to sea, reminding you that you are on an island. A stroll to a western coast can delight you with a view of endless sea and a sunset to swoon at, and a long, sometimes winding road out to a lighthouse will show you everything for miles around from a completely new perspective. On clear days at the far north-easterly tip of Mallorca you can see all the way to Menorca, and from the peak of Sa Talaia on Ibiza there are fabulous views of Formentera and the scatter of little islands around her. Some watchtowers are in good enough repair for you to climb the rope ladder to the top, like the watchmen of 400 years ago, but looking out for the glisten of sunlight on a dolphin’s back instead of pirates.

Cova des Culleram, Ibiza p88 Sa Talaia, Ibiza p63 Far de Cavalleria, Menorca p207 Far des Mola, Formentera p46 Punta Galera, Ibiza p73 Torre de Campanitx, Ibiza p88 Es Vedrà Viewpoint, Ibiza p63 (pictured) Mirador de Cap Andritxol, Mallorca p107 Castell d’Alaró, Mallorca p158 Far de Formentor, Mallorca p144

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Best for Ancient & sacred These islands are studded with sacred places and bound together by festivals. On a winter night you might come across a nit do foc (night of fire), with people waving firebrands, tables heaped for feasting and folk music filling the air. The past is as real as the present to many islanders, and evidence of it is all around. The huge dry-stone walls of prehistoric talaiots abound, especially on Menorca, while Phoenician and Roman buildings have left ruins as footprints. The Moorish legacy is most visible, woven into the landscape as irrigated terraces where orange, almond and apricot trees, cumin and saffron are grown. Many of the stone watchtowers that encircled the islands in the days of pirates, all in sight of each other’s signals, still stand on giddy cliffs, while inland summits are crowned with ancient castles or santuaris and monasteries. There are also countless caves cut into cliffs and hillsides across the islands, once used for burials, worship or dwellings; some are still lived in to this day, others empty but for mysterious carvings. Everywhere these echoes of the past whisper to those who stop and listen.

Sanisera Roman Sites & Torre d’en Galmés, Menorca p206 Ses Roques Llises, Menorca p208 (pictured) Es Castellas des Caparrot de Forma, Menorca p223 Nécropolis de Cala Morell, Menorca p195 Cova des Coloms, Menorca p210 Necròpolis de Son Real, Mallorca p155 Ses Païsses, Mallorca p177 Ses Païsses de Cala D’hort, Ibiza p62 Talaiot de Binifat, Mallorca p155 Megalithic de Cap de Barbaria, Formentera p45 Ses Roques Llises, Menorca p208

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Best for Exploring land caves The Balearic islands are riddled with beautiful caves just perfect for exploring, from natural caverns dripping with stalactites and stalagmites to burial chambers cut in the Bronze Age. Many of the most spectacular caves have guided tours, underground concerts and light shows, but there are some beautiful hidden gems you can explore for free if you know where to look. Some caves we have stumbled upon, small steps hidden amongst bushes just off a trail, leading down to a huge chamber, perhaps once used for storage by smugglers or pirates. Others we have heard tales about or even seen in a film, such as the hole in the ground hidden in plain sight just below a Formentera lighthouse, leading to a cavern with spectacular views. A handful are hard-to-reach legends: you clamber up to the Cova des Sants in Ibiza using a rope, to find yourself below extraordinary rock formations like jellyfish. Quite a few have been lived in, long ago or very recently, and sitting in a Neolithic cave set high in the cliffs looking out across an empty headland, you can almost imagine that nothing has changed in all the ages since it was first inhabited.

Torrent de Coanegra Canyoning, Mallorca p156 La Cueva de Lily, Mallorca p177 Sa Cova Foradada, Formentera p46 Far des Mola Cave, Formentera p46 Cova des Coloms, Menorca p210 (pictured) Sa Cova Tancada, Mallorca p141 Cova des Migdia, Mallorca p139 Cova de Portals Vells, Mallorca p103 Cova des Sants, Ibiza p88 Nécropolis de Cala Morell, Menorca p195

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Best for Hikes & coastal walks The great thing about small islands is that you can walk all the way around them. Menorca’s coastal route, the Camí de Cavalls, circles it like a gorgeous bracelet adorned with bright white beaches and rocky red coves. Mallorca has many coastal paths, sometimes covering long stretches, but the west and north have wild, steep cliffs that prevent a full circular route. You can hike all around Ibiza’s coastline, joining several paths together yourself, while there’s an ultramarathon once a year around the coastal trail of Formentera, but is otherwise a quiet and relaxing route to ramble on. Inland hiking routes range from heart-pumping mountain treks where snow falls in winter to gentle wooded hillsides lined with aromatic rosemary bushes, while ancient stone paths wind through farmlands between oranges, vineyards or frothy almond blossoms. There are some dry gorges or torrents that are a family ramble, and others that should only be done with ropes and guides. Wherever you walk there are remote hostels offering a welcome bed and something to eat, or charming villages where you can recharge on strong coffee and dine on the menu del dia in a traditional bar.

Cocó de Ses Ninfes trail, Mallorca p126 Ses Balandres, Ibiza p69 (pictured) Cala d’Albarca, Ibiza p70 Camí de Cavalls from Platja Es Grau, Menorca p217 Camí de Sa Pujada, Formentera p47 Camí de S’Arxiduc, Mallorca p108 Camí de Coanegra, Mallorca p158 Avinguda Colon trail, Mallorca p179 Barranc de Biniaraix, Mallorca p140 Barranc d’Algendar, Menorca p209 Cala Llentrisca, Ibiza p55

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Best for Wildlife & nature reserves The Balearics attract huge numbers of migrating birds, many within the vast protected marshes, salt flats and reed-beds where herons, flamingos and egrets thrive. Ospreys breed in the coastal cliffs, as well as the endemic Balearic shearwater. Eleonora’s falcons, peregrines, black vultures and booted eagles swoop overhead in the mountains, and swifts, beeeaters, hoopoes, greenfinches and tawny pipits fill the sky with their song. It’s common to see wild sheep and goats roaming the mountains, and you can also spy spotted civet cats, pine martens, genets, hedgehogs, lizards and tortoises. The plants of the islands are no less entrancing. The farmlands are famed for the early almond blossom, followed by wildflowers such as orange marigolds, wild fennel and other graceful umbellifers, violets, poppies, gladioli and many orchids. Out in the garrigue scrub, the yellow blooms of native broom fragrance the air, while blue-flowered rosemary scents anything that brushes past, and in the forest native holm oak, dwarf palms and carob thrive alongside ancient olive trees, some over a thousand years old. Thankfully huge areas are protected from development, rewilding to let nature thrive; many are national parks, some even have UNESCO World Heritage status.

Ses Salines, Ibiza p62 Parc Natural de S’Albufera, Mallorca p156 Can Morroig, Formentera p47 (pictured) Parc Natural de S’Albufera Des Grau, Menorca p224 Es Amunts Natural Park, Ibiza p89 Finca Publica s’Arangí, Menorca p208 Sa Dragonera Natural Park, Mallorca p108 Reserva Natural de S’Albufereta, Mallorca p144 Parc Natural de la Península de Llevant, Mallorca p176 Sa Comuna de Bunyola, Mallorca p157

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Best for Beach food Eating good food on a gorgeous beach is one of life’s great pleasures, and even the less frequented Balearic beaches often have a chiringuito shack or a restaurant, or something in between, sometimes open late into the evening with live music adding to the atmosphere. Depending where you are in the islands, you might find a simple outdoor kitchen, a little café or bar with a terrace or a smart restaurant with breathtaking views. The simple food is often the best: deliciously fresh catch of the day or a huge seafood paella to be shared by a table, glistening olives, a rainbow of salads, meat or fish grilled on a blazing fire and traditional pa amb oli, an unsalted rye bread called pan moreno spread with rich tomato juices and olive oil. Local wines can be excellent, or a cold cerveza (beer) might be more welcome on a hot day. Coffees are good, strong and cheap, and many places serve artisan ice cream or gató, a dry almond cake served with almond ice cream. If you’re heading to somewhere truly remote it’s best to pack a picnic, and you can pick up sheep’s cheese, spicy sobrasada sausage, fresh figs and artisan bread at the local markets. Don’t forget to bring plenty of drinking water too, whether you are hiking to an isolated peak or a remote cove.

Es Jardi at Sa Caleta, Ibiza p64 Cala Gracioneta Chiringuito, Ibiza p75 S’Embat, Mallorca p128 Sa Foradada, Mallorca p110 Restaurant Illeta, Mallorca p110 (pictured) Cova Sa Nacra, Menorca p196 Bucaneros, Menorca p224 Juan Y Andrea, Formentera p49 El Bigotes, Ibiza p90 Amante Ibiza, Ibiza p76

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Chiringuito Cala Saona, Formentera p48

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Best for Sleeping & stargazing There are places on these islands where the night skies are so deeply dark and clear that the stars seem to multiply and twinkle in dense swirls, and all you can do is lie on your back and gaze. You can’t wild camp in these wild places: it’s strictly forbidden on all the islands, as are fires, to protect the environment, and if you pitch a tent you may well wake up to angry police and a hefty fine. You can, however, sling a hammock in the trees with a mosquito net over you, and if you leave no trace, this is a good option for the truly wild places. There are government-run hostels called refugís providing cheap and simple food and accommodation in wild and remote locations, mostly along hiking paths. They are great places to meet like-minded people and share tips, routes and anecdotes with your dinner – but you have to plan and book ahead. All the islands also offer rural agroturismos, usually family farms converted into hotels. From simple to opulent and everything in between, they boast generations of history, often set in stunning grounds and decorated in a typical Balearic style.

Sa Torre Blanca, Menorca p224 Camping s’Atalaia, Menorca p211 Es Pas Formentera Agroturismo, Formentera p49 Las Mariposas, Ibiza p77 Camping La Playa, Ibiza p91 Son Roig, Mallorca p163 Can Cosmi Prat, Ibiza p76 Finca Hotel Rural Es Turó, Mallorca p129 Refugio de s’Alzina, Mallorca p180 Ses Sucreres, Menorca p211 Castell d’Alaró, Mallorca p158 (pictured)

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Punta de Sa Pedrera p42

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FORMENTERA & IBIZA Ibiza and Formentera are only three nautical miles apart, but their characters are distinctly unique. Away from the resorts many associate with Ibiza lies another world where winding roads meander between fields of flouncy, fragrant almond blossom, dry stone walls, twisted fig trees and orange groves. Huge limestone cliffs hide secret trails leading down through pine forests to empty coves of limpid turquoise water. A short ferry journey takes you to the tiny island paradise of Formentera, with its plentiful white sandy beaches, crystal-clear waters fringed by pine forests and relaxed hippy vibe. It is easy to see why the ancient Greeks called them the Pityûssai, or pine islands. The swathes of ancient pine forests are dense, making the landscape surprisingly green and luscious. Ancient remains show that early settlers lived here in caves and on the plains. Bronze Age settlements have also been discovered, and it seems the islands were depopulated before Phoenicians, Carthaginians and Romans arrived. They were subsequently settled by Arabs, Christians and Turks, and subjected to regular attacks from pirates, as the watchtowers on many of the headlands attest. More recently Ibiza was a haven for those fleeing Franco’s rule, then hippies seeking an off-grid lifestyle. Musicians flocked there in the 1960s and 1970s to record music and soak up the vibes: Mick Jagger, Joni Mitchell and Bob Marley to name just a few. The party scene that followed grew until Ibiza gained the reputation of clubbing capital of the world. The calmer alternative of Formentera’s shores drew musicians like

Bob Dylan, who is rumoured to have played chess in the Fonda Pepe restaurant. Ibiza is probably the most exploited island in the Balearics, but although some areas are scarred by resorts those who take time to go off the beaten track in search of the true spirit of Ibiza will discover another world: tiny villages where wood-fired ovens cook traditional food to eat on bougainvillea-covered terraces with mountain views; old farmhouses converted into agroturismo hotels with sustainability at heart; beautiful forests, hidden beaches, craggy mountains and sunsets that are the stuff of legends. Watching the burning orange disc sink behind the mystical island of Es Vedrà is an experience to treasure forever. The ancient Greeks said this was where the sirens sang to Odysseus. All around Ibiza you will find ancient sacred stone circles, rock carvings and shrines, while today people are making their mark with murals, drumming ceremonies and quirky hippy markets. One of the most iconic Ibizan images is of tiny coves lined with old fishing huts, lyrical remnants of times gone by. Both islands are a paradise for nature lovers. Ses Salines Natural Park stretches from south-west Ibiza all the way to Formentera and is home to sea turtles, cetaceans and many sea birds. It contains a large area of salt flats where migratory birds including flamingo, storks and fish eagles thrive and has UNESCO World Heritage status due to the dense forests of Posidonia seaweed, which keeps the water around the islands so perfectly clear. 37

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formentera Our perfect weekend , Stroll along the narrow path that divides the salt pans of Ses Salines and watch the sun rise over perfect reflections with flamingos feeding , Gaze out to S’Espalmador island from the northern tip of Formentera with beautiful white sand and turquoise sea on either side of you , Disappear down a natural hole on the moonlike landscape near Cap de Barbaria into the hidden grotto of Sa Cova Foradada and look out across the sea , Feel the wind in your hair as you cycle along one of Formentera’s many dusty, car-free tracks to find your own little patch of beach , Explore caves that shelter the boats by the shore of Cala en Baster and snorkel around the rocks , Enjoy delicious, local fresh fish at the old mill Es Moli de Sal where you can jump straight into the sea from the jetty , Watch the sunset from the cliffs above Cala Saona, with a cocktail from the charming chiringuito below

The tiny island of Formentera is scarcely 20km long and can only be reached by ferry from Ibiza. From the 15th to the early 18th century it lay uninhabited, due to pirate attacks from the Barbary Coast, and even today only about 12,000 people live here. But this little paradise of white sand beaches and rocky coves, with narrow and often unsurfaced lanes linking quaint villages, looms surprisingly large in culture, especially music. This is where Joni Mitchell was when her relationship fell apart and her iconic album ‘Blue’ came together, this was the inspiration for the song ‘Formentera Lady’ by King Crimson, and it was reputedly briefly the home of Bob Dylan. Ever since the 1960s, hippies and dreamers have been drawn here – no wonder it was chosen as a setting for the turbulent emotional events of the Spanish film Lucía y el sexo.

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There is a very laid-back feel to the island. Although there are regular crossings for foot or car passengers that take under an hour, opportunities to hire or bring over cars are limited. Thankfully the island is relatively flat with lots of little country lanes leading to beaches, coves and villages, and there are several car-free cycling and walking ‘green routes’, so bicycles or scooters are a very attractive alternative.

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There’s no better way to take in the effortless beauty of the landscape, the tantalising strips of turquoise water and white, powdery sand, the towering cliffs, the whitewashed houses and dusty tracks. Protecting all of this means that camping isn’t an option these days, but there are plenty of hostels, beach chalets and small hotels to choose from. XX 5

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coves & beaches north 1 S’ESPALMADOR This privately owned and uninhabited island, just 150m off the north coast, is accessible only by boat; from the very end of Platja de ses Illetes (see entry) it looks close and shallow enough to swim to, but the currents are strong so don’t attempt it. You can kayak, or catch the little ‘barca Bahia’ ferry from La Savina in the summer months to spend the day exploring the beautiful beaches – you will need to bring supplies. People used to visit the mud lake to wallow in it, but changing weather patterns have shrunk it drastically, and it is now off-limits. The ferry departs La Savina port (38.7342, ,  1.4167) at 10.15am, 11.45am and 1.15pm returning at 4.15pm, 5.30pm and 6.45pm, calling at a jetty on ses Illetes (38.7583, 1.4347) both ways; timings can change. Experienced kayakers can hire from Centro Nautico in La Savina (+34 627 478452). 4 hours, 38.7869, 1.4250 h012' 2 PLATJA DE SES ILLETES The most iconic beach of Formentera, this beautiful, thin strip of sand at the north

of the island has little islands, white sand, turquoise water and gentle undulating dunes dotted with flowers. Truly heaven on earth on a quiet day, it is busy in high season. At those times, just keep walking north. Head NE from La Savina on PM-820-2. At ,  about 1.6km there is a L signed Ses Illetes for car parks with a fee in high season (cyclists are free). Alternatively, drive on 1.4km park and walk N as for Platja de Llevant (see entry), turning L to face the islands after 2km where the grassy dunes give way to sand. 10–20 mins, 38.7595, 1.4356 1qk' 3 PLATJA DE LLEVANT (NORTH) As the name suggests, this beach snakes up the east coast of the Es Trucadors peninsula, at the northern tip of the island. One stretch (Tanga, see entry) is backed by high grassy dunes, the other has a lower spit only a few metres wide, and both are beautiful white sand. Here we are referring to the more northern beach, from which you can look out across the sea in both directions. Slightly more rocky than its southerly sister, it has an amazing, protected dune system. About 3.5km from the car park to the very end, where you can look across to S’Espalmador (see entry).

Follow PM-820-2 from La Savina 3km, ,  curving around E side of Estany Pudent lake, and take signed L. Continue 900m to car park at end. Follow boardwalk to beach, and walk N 2.5km. Or walk over E from Platja de ses Illetes (see entry). 25 mins, 38.7645, 1.4352 1q 4 PLATJA DE LLEVANT (TANGA) The southerly stretch of Platja de Llevant is sometimes known as Platja Tanga after the open-air restaurant here (+34 971 187905). Soak up the sunshine or rest in the shade with a paella, watching the waves lap the shore. The toll-controlled entry to Platja de ses ,  Illetes (see entry) has signs for Tanga car park. Otherwise park as for Platja de Llevant north (see entry) and follow boardwalk to beach; 850m N to restaurant. 2 mins, 38.7459, 1.4391 q 5 PLATJA DE SA ROQUETA A smaller, quieter beach to swim or snorkel off the rocks or bask on the sand, just between Platja de Llevant (Tanga) and Ses Canyes (see entries). Known for being a nudist beach, although not officially. Follow PM-820-2 from La Savina just over ,  3km around Estany Pudent lake look for L

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2 XX signed platja de Sa Roqueta. Follow 300m to park at end, then for rocks walk a little way L on beach past the hostel. 3 mins, 38.7340, 1.4460 1h 6 SES CANYES A quiet bay made up of a mixture of rocks and sand and protected by dunes. Beautifully clear water for a snorkel. It can be a little busier than neighbouring Platja de Sa Roqueta (see entry). Park as for Sa Roqueta but turn R and walk S. ,  3 mins, 38.7324, 1.4469 -q

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7 PLATJA DE SES XALANES This simply stunning little bay just south of the more famous Playa de ses Illetes (see entry) has a mixture of rocks and white powder sand, with shallow turquoise waters making it a real paradise. Overlooked by the renowned restaurant Es Moli de Sal (see entry) who do a cracking lobster paella with a view to match. Head NE from La Savina on PM-820-2 ,  and at 1.6km take a L turn signed Ses Illetes (parking fee in high season) and park in first car park R, 850m after ticket booth. Walk 200m back, past El Pirata restaurant, to cove. 5 mins, 38.7471, 1.4321 kq1-

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8 ES CAVALL D’EN BORRÀS This beautiful, sandy beach stretches for 2km and has a gentle slope into the crystal clear water. Backed by protected sand dunes and a pine forest, and with two popular chiringuitos discreetly tucked into the dunes, it is a popular spot amongst locals to watch the sun go down. Take PM-820-2 from La Savina N about ,  1.5km, turn L signed Platja Cavall d’en Borràs/ Beso Beach into car park. Walk down to the shore. Alternatively, you could walk or cycle 1km from E end of La Savina harbour (38.7324, 1.4206) along the track. 5 mins, 38.7399, 1.42937 6-q1 9 PUNTA DE SA PEDRERA This old coastal quarry site, which forms part of the Can Morroig nature reserve (see entry), is a wonderful spot to snorkel and swim. Explore the many different nooks and crannies in natural pools and caves formed long ago, as well as the dramatic contours of recent extraction. From La Savina head S on PM-820, and ,  230m after edge of town turn R signed Can Morroig, then after 350m R signed Parc natural de ses Salines Follow signs 2.5km to car park at end (38.7281, 1.3965). Walk

XX 9 back along road 250m to signed trailhead and follow N about 1km headland, to explore either side. 20 mins, 38.7340, 1.3964 QUh1-9

coves & beaches south 10 CALA EN BASTER This quiet cove sits on the edge of a village and is surrounded by high cliffs, sculpted into an almost lunar-looking rock landscape. There are caves in the cliff base with wooden slipways to carry boats over the rocks to the water. A truly magical beach for exploring. You can even hike from here to Torre de sa Punta Prima (see entry). Take PM-820 from Sant Francesc Xavier ,  E to Sant Ferran de ses Roques, as you enter the village take second L and bear immediately R (38.7064, 1.4572) to follow one-way system onto Carrer de Sant Jaume, turn L at end then follow Carrer de Cala en Baster R all the way to the coast. Cove is on the edge of housing with some street parking. Walk to end of headland and descend to beach at SE. You can continue this road along afterwards to rejoin PM-820. 5 mins, 38.7023, 1.4777 9qA1

11 PLATJA ES CALÓ A quiet, rocky beach just north of the village of Es Caló with incredible water colour. The charming little fishing village is worth a visit in itself, with a tiny natural harbour encircled by traditional fishing huts. The water is shallow and perfectly clear, a lovely spot for a quick dip before lunch. Follow PM-820 about 6.5km S from Sant ,  Ferran de ses Roques to Es Calo on L. Parking in the village, including by harbour. Walk N behind fishing huts and along boardwalk. 3 mins, 38.6782, 1.5145 -1 12 SES PLATGETES This ‘little beaches’ name covers lovely stretches of white sand with rocky outcrops and abundant sea life. They are reached either along the shore or down the wooden walkways that keep the dune system and juniper forest protected. Can be rough when the north wind blows. Park and walk as for Platja es Caló (see ,  entry) and walk on to the next beach along. Cyclists can also turn off the road onto the boardwalk 400m W of the village (38.6783, 1.5125). 10 mins, 38.6791, 1.5126 1z

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13 XX 13 CALO DES MORT Tiny and exquisite cove with gloriously clear, shallow water, sheltering rocks and scoop of white sand below wind-sculpted golden cliffs. Follow PM-820 for 1km S from Es Caló ,  village, turn R signed platja des Copinar and Caló des Mort, just after Alcapulco restaurant R with all the surfboards outside. This road runs 800m to the shore; park where you can on street, walk to beach and turn L, continue 500m S past Chiringuito Bartolo to the undeveloped section. 10 mins, 38.6598, 1.5178 A014 PLATJA DE MIGJORN This beautiful beach stretches for 8km along the south coast of the island. With shallow, turquoise water and white sand, there are busier spots, with beach bars to refuel at, but also quiet areas where you can spread out. Follow PM-820 from Sant Ferran de ses ,  Roques S for just under 4km, take signed Restaurant Vogamari and Platja Migjorn, follow to the restaurant, park and follow boardwalk to beach. Alternatively, stay on PM820 another 500m and turn R on rough road at painted white rock with ‘10.5’ on it R, follow to public parking at end (38.6726, 1.4987). 3 mins, 38.6749, 1.4933 kq1-

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XX 14 15 CALA SAONA The west coast is mostly rocky, but this absolutely picture-perfect beach is the exception, with white sand, turquoise sea and even photogenic fishing huts on the red rocks. Check out the little trees next to them, often hung with freshly caught fish drying in the sunshine. It can be busy in high season, but is worth an evening trip for some of the best sunset views; climb the hill to the south of the beach, above the fishing huts, for a spectacular viewpoint. From roundabout at S of Sant Francesc ,  Xavier head S on PMV-820-1, after 2km take R signed Cala Saona, keep L and follow signs 3km. Park next to the large hotel and walk down to the beach. 2 mins, 38.6930, 1.3891 6K1-

ancient ruins 16 CA NA COSTA This is a fine Bronze Age tomb, the oldest in the islands, in use from around 2000BC to 1600BC. The remains of eight people were found within the central chamber of the circular structure in the 1970s, together with bone beads and ceramic shards. You can wander around the outside, but there is a

small fence to protect the remains. There is also a charming little farmhouse next to the ruins with some fine examples of traditional farming tools. Follow PM-820-2 from La Savina for 3.5km ,  E and S past Estany Pudent, look for sign on L for dirt track R before Es Pujols, follow 150m to end, very limited parking space. 1 min, 38.7265, 1.4456 Q8Aq 17 CASTELLUM DE CAN BLAI This late Roman site is something of a mystery: it was clearly a square fort with five towers, like many others that defended the border of the empire, but it seems it was not used for long. With Vandal and Byzantine invasions, this quiet island was a dangerous part of the world in the Roman era. Definitely worth a visit, although the ruins are fenced for protection. Follow PM-820 from Es Caló N around ,  1.7km to turning L with stone walls – signed, but not visible in this direction. Follow 200m, parking at end. 1 min, 38.6817, 1.4975 QqA 18 MEGALITHIC DE CAP DE BARBARIA These low, fragile remains are believed to be the earliest settlement on the island. At nearly 4,000 years old, they are from the

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Xavier S, for 8km, all the way to the lighthouse outside of high season. In season, you must park by the last Megalithic de Cap de Barbaria site and walk the last 1.5km. 1 min, 38.6410, 1.3893 9Aq 20 SA COVA FORADADA Made famous by the film Lucía y el sexo, this magical cave is hidden in plain sight. A simple hole in the lunar landscape leads down a ladder into a large, dark cave. Walk through and you come right to the cliff face, blinking into the sunshine with fabulous views. Park as for Cap de Barbaria lighthouse (see ,  entry). Walk to R of lighthouse, until you almost fall into a hole with a ladder leading down. 5 mins, 38.6413, 1.3887 9qA

XX 22 same era as Ca na Costa tomb (see entry). There are three separate sites: Cap de Barbaria I, the circle, is near the end of the road, while II and III, the settlement and the cabins, are further north. All are fenced. Follow PMV-820-1 from roundabout at ,  Sant Fransesc Xavier S for 5km, pass heritage sign for site II and pull off L shortly after at sign for site III, visible at roadside. Walk back and down path 200m to site II, keeping L at fork (38.6598, 1.4034). Drive on 800m to parking for Cap de Barbaria lighthouse (see entry) where site I is signed and visible (38.6554, 1.3949). 5 mins, 38.6604, 1.4003 Qhq

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sacred sites & secret caves 19 CAP DE BARBARIA LIGHTHOUSE This is the most southerly point of the island, closest to the Barbary Coast in Algeria, which lies only 100km away. The lighthouse is iconic, dramatically sited at the end of a long, straight road with nothing around it but rocks, rosemary and thyme. While here you can also explore the nearby Sa Cova Foradada cave and the ancient Megalithic de Cap de Barbaria sites (see entries). Take PMV-820-1 from Sant Fransesc , 

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21 FAR DES MOLA & CAVE In one of his novels Jules Verne made this lighthouse ‘the end of the world’ on a chunk of the planet knocked into space by a comet. Perched high on the cliffs in a stark, otherworldly landscape, it seems appropriate, and the views are stunning. For a small fee you can go into the lighthouse in the summer months, but our most exciting find was the cave below it. If you keep to the left of the lighthouse and walk to the edge of the cliff you will see a little very hidden pathway; scramble down very carefully to find a large cave with the most spectacular view, and a perfect spot for a picnic. Follow PM-820 all the way to the SE tip of ,  the island, 2.5km beyond El Pilar de la Mola, and park. 2 mins, 38.6633, 1.5837 Aw 22 TORRE DE SA PUNTA PRIMA This 18th-century defence tower, the largest and most striking of five built to defend against Barbary pirates, perches alone on top of the cliffs. A great spot to see all the way down the rocky coast and across to Ibiza, watching the seabirds wheeling below, and particularly fine at sunrise. Follow PM-820-2 from roundabout ,  in Es Pujols just over 2km S, take L with heritage sign for tower, (also advertising signs for Ses Fiexes and Chezz Gerdi), follow 450m to a hotel car park, turn R on unpaved road, follow 200m and park near tower. You can also hike from Cala en Baster beach (see entry). 2 mins, 38.7229, 1.4707 7h6 23 SANT FRANCESC XAVIER CHURCH This unusual church in the capital of Formentera looks more fortress-like than ecclesiastical; when it was built in

XX 21 the 18th century it was as much a refuge during pirate attacks as a place of worship. The door is backed with iron plates and overlooked by a small shooting ‘loop’ high in the wall, and even the interior was designed to maintain its strength. The square outside often has live music in the evenings, and this little town is a joy to simply wander around, with great places to eat and drink. In the heart of the town. Car parks off ,  Carrer de Sant Joan; walk E on Carrer d’Isidor Macabich and through pedestrianised section to square. 1 min, 38.7054, 1.4283

nature & trails 24 ESTANY PUDENT This enormous and beautiful lagoon has three times the salt content of the sea and is a rich and very important habitat for wildlife. You can spot flamingos here in the summer months, as well as herons, egrets and black-crested grebe. The reflections are stunning, but beware the mosquitos at sunset! The name means ‘stinky pond’, and on a hot summer day it can live up to this.

Follow PM-820-2 from La Savina around N ,  and E of lake, there are several spots to pull over and explore. Or walk or cycle all around it on car-free green routes, a lovely way to explore the area. 1 min, 38.7339, 1.4267 DQ& 25 CAN MORROIG A public park encompassing many wonderful trails through a pine forest as well as a designated picnic and BBQ spot in the shade of the trees; the welcome centre is very informative and worth a visit. This is also the starting point from which to head out and swim at Punta de sa Pedrera (see entry). From La Savina head S on PM-820 and ,  230m after edge of town turn R signed Can Morroig, then after 350m R signed Parc natural de ses Salines, and follow signs 2.5km to car park at end. Walk S to visitor centre. 1 min, 38.7264, 1.3959 3Wz 26 CAMI DE SA PUJADA For centuries this cobbled path was all that linked the village of Es Pilar de Mola to Es Caló and the rest of the island. Today it is a nature trail where you can take in spectacular views while walking in the footsteps of the Augustine monks who used

XX 26 it; for this association, it is also known as the Camino Roma. Follow PM-820 from Es Calo about 500m ,  S, turn L by hotel Entres Pinos, follow 300m and park in small layby L just before heritage sign for cobbled path R (38.6724, 1.5235). If there is no space, turn back to park near hotel and walk up. 45 mins, 38.6714, 1.5297 A6H 27 NA BLANCA D’EN MESTRE The fig trees of wind-blown Formentera are distinctive, supported on a complex pattern of Y-shaped ‘estalons’ to form a shady

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back 450m. Tree is on L up dead-end; no designated parking nearby, best visited by bike. 1 min, 38.6862, 1.4885 53

chiringuitos 28 BESO BEACH RESTAURANT Busy beach restaurant with old wooden tables and a busy, happy party vibe. With an emphasis on local and fresh food, the paella is just perfection! Cavall d’en Borràs, 07860 Formentera, ,  +34 971 349900 38.7396, 1.4297

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XX 42 canopy that is easy to pick from, and Na Blanca d’en Mestre is the most emblematic of them all. Over a century in age and over 350 square metres in area, it is the largest fig tree on the island, with over 200 estalons holding it up; maintaining the supports is a community effort. Follow PM-820 from Sant Ferrán de ,  ses Roques S for just under 4km, take signed Restaurant Vogamari and Platja Mig jorn. Follow 160m, turn R and double

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restaurants with history 33 CAFÉ MATINAL This is the place to go for a delicious slow brunch with all sorts of morning foods from fresh fruit, yoghurts and smoothies, to croissants, cheeses, eggs and jamón. It has a slightly vintage feel and the little terrace is usually packed. Carrer de l’A rxiduc Lluís Salvador 18, ,  07860 San Francisco Javier, +34 971 322547 38.7056, 1.4292

29 CASA BARTOLO Simple and utterly gorgeous, this little blue beach hut is famous for the shells hung up around it. Serves delicious food and snacks, and welcome cocktails. Carretera a Maryland, 4606 Playa de Es ,  Pujols, 07872 Formentera 38.6619, 1.5161

34 ES MOLI DE SAL An absolutely stunning restaurant in an old salt mill, perched right above Platja de ses Xalanes cove (see entry) with terrific views and a jetty just perfect to jump off into the turquoise sea. Specialising in local foods, especially fish, this place is a cut above, with prices to match. Calle Afores, s/n, 07871 Formentera, ,  +34 971 187491 38.7464, 1.4318

30 CHIRINGUITO CALA SAONA Little beach hut built into the rocks, with a windmill on the top. They make great smoothies using fresh local produce. Perfect for sunset drinks, as Cala Saona is one of the best places on Formentera to watch the sun drop below the horizon. Carretera a Cala Saona 1713, 07860 ,  Formentera 38.6927, 1.3885

35 JUAN Y ANDREA Established in 1971 and still run by the same family, this restaurant has arguably the best location on the island. Set right in the middle of the famous Playa de ses Illetes (see entry), its palm trees can be seen from afar. Brilliant for fish and paella. Playa Illetes, s/n, 07871 Formentera, ,  +34 630 258144 38.7538, 1.4335

31 PIRATA BUS Forty years ago a couple of self-described hippies from Germany bought an old bus and put it on the beach as a makeshift bar; when they were made to remove the bus, they simply kept the name for the wooden shack chiringuito. This place is still run by Pascual, the original ‘Pirata’, and his wife Edith, with a fun vibe and great music. Platja de Migjorn, PM-820 turn off at km 11 ,  38.6676, 1.5074

36 FONDA PEPE Right on the town’s main square, this simple eatery is an institution. Legend has it that Bob Dylan spent time recovering from an accident playing chess here back in the 1970s. The food is local and homemade, and it is always busy which is a good sign. Sant Ferran de ses Roques Carrer Major, ,  07871 Formentera, +34 971 328033 38.7072, 1.4586

32 TIBURON This simple, funky eatery is translated as ‘the shark’. Follow the track through forest and dunes to find this little shack with a typically postcard-perfect beach spread out in front of it. A fun little spot to grab some seafood with your toes in the sand. Cavall d’en Borras, Es Pujols, 07872 ,  Formentera, +34 659 638945 38.7415, 1.4309

37 RESTAURANTE EL MIRADOR This local institution opened up in the 1960s and is worth visiting for the location as well as the cooking, with incredible panoramic views across the island to Es Vedrà and Ibiza, especially at sunset. Carretera de la Mila/PM-820, km 14.3, ,  07872 Formentera, +34 971 327037 38.6695, 1.5293

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places to stay 38 ES PAS FORMENTERA AGROTURISMO A small, smart agroturismo in a 200-year-old country house, situated near Es Calo and the long sands of Platja de Migjorn (see entry). Surrounded by fig and olive trees, the finca produces extra virgin olive oil and fruit jams. Venda Ses Clotades, Can Joan Barber, s/n, ,  07872 Es Caló, +34 670 332045 38.6773, 1.5071 39 HOSTAL RAFALET Right on the seafront in Es Calo, this hotel is simple and budget-friendly in a great location.

Carrer sant Agustí 1, 07872 Es Caló, ,  +34 971 327016 38.6773, 1.5175 40 TALAYA Self-catering studios and apartments, each with its own terrace under the palm trees, tucked into the dunes behind Platja de Migjorn (see entry). Platja de Migjorn, km 7.2, Can Yern s/n, ,  07871 Sant Ferran de Ses Roques, +34 971 185164 38.6843, 1.4709

on the sands of Platja de Migjorn (see entry). The lovely restaurant is open to passing trade. Carretera de la Mola, km 11, 07872, ,  +34 971 328041 38.6692, 1.5087 42 HOTEL ES MARÈS Situated in the heart of the old town of Sant Francesc, this small, family-run hotel is stylish and boasts a beautiful spa and rooftop pool. Carretera Santa Maria 15, Sant Francesc ,  Xavier, +34 971 323216 38.7060, 1.4290

41 LAS DUNAS PLAYAS Simple, inexpensive chalets situated almost

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ibiza south Our perfect weekend , Plunge into the mysterious tidal pools of Sa Pedrera de Cala D’Hort, looking out to the legendary island of Es Vedrà , Snorkel around the coastline of Sa Bassa to find the enormous Cueva de los Sastres sea cave ,Stroll   the ramparts of ancient Dalt Vila and sip a cocktail on the staircase beanbags at S’Escalinata , Hike up Sa Talaia, the tallest mountain in Ibiza, and enjoy the views across to Formentera and the mainland , Marvel at the enigmatic sculptures of Time and Space and Las Puertas de Can Soleil before hiking to the hidden beach of Cala Llentia , Explore the ladders and walkways between the rocks overlooking the islets on the secret beach of Es Niu de s’Àguila , Watch flamingos and migratory birds on Ses Salines and the ever-changing colours of the salt flats as the sun sets , Jump in the turquoise water from the jetty outside Es Xarcu restaurant before a freshly caught fish lunch , Listen to the drummers play the day away from a prime position on Cala Escondida while you watch the sun set

This side of Ibiza is best known for the classic ‘sunset strip’ of coast, with people gathering on the beaches to dance and drum down the sun with bongos. It’s hard to oversell the splendour of this spectacle, as the sun drops over a coastline surrounded by gorgeous islets that dramatically turn into hues of orange, pink and red. Beachfront restaurants also celebrate the view, with plenty of places to watch the glorious sunset over a cocktail or a meal of fresh fish. But if the drums or drinks aren’t for you, there are smaller coves off the beaten track where you can experience it in greater tranquillity.

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Among the most extraordinary swimming places along this coast are the tidal pools of Sa Pedrera de Cala D’Hort and Punta de sa Torre de ses Portes on the western coast. Sa Pedrera, nicknamed Atlantis, has become an Ibizan legend due to its position, hidden at the bottom of a huge cliff with views across to the iconic island of Es Vedrà. Discovered by hippies in the 1960s, it has been decorated and carved with shrines and artwork to create an otherworldly landscape, and is seen by many as an extremely spiritual place. The pools were created by the quarrying of limestone, used in the 1550s to fortify the impressive Dalt Vila in the city of Ibiza; you can still walk all around those walls today, and explore the old town within.

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Much of the most southerly part of Ibiza is a protected UNESCO world heritage site called Ses Salines, a very different landscape. Salt was once the main export of Ibiza, first bringing the Phoenicians to settle the headland of Sa Caleta, and later guarded by watchtowers like Torre des Carregador; its production is still a thriving business. The shallow pools of the flats where the seawater dries out to yield salt change colour at different times, from greens and blues to a deep pink that matches the flamingos who visit in the summer months. They also provide the perfect habitat for a whole host of other migratory birds. The site extends out across the sea all the way to Formentera, protecting an extraordinary environment that is home to turtles, octopuses, dolphins, sea horses and many other species. The clarity of the water is mainly thanks to posidonia seaweed, which thrives here and provides near-perfect conditions for absolutely excellent snorkelling; this fascinating underwater world can be enjoyed from pretty much any part of the coastline.

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beaches 1 SAL ROSSA PLAYA Small, quiet shingle cove with traditional fishing huts along one side and crystal-clear water. The rocky Illa de sa Sal Rossa sits right in front, and is great to swim out to and explore. Surrounded by pine forests and watched over by the Torre des Carregador (see entry). Follow E-20 from Ibiza town S to ,  roundabout where it becomes EI-800, and take PM-802/E1-900 heading S. Follow 2km, turn L just after bar San Fransisco opposite salt flats, signed Torre des Carregador, then immediately L again also signed to the tower, follow 1.4km and pull off to park at signs L for tower (38.8728, 1.4033). Walk on 120m along track to beach. 5 mins, 38.8725, 1.4043 -hqA' 2 LA XANGA A peaceful and calm scrap of pebbled beach between fishing huts, with trails leading back into the pine forests and juniper bushes behind to explore. From Sal Rossa Playa (see entry), walk ,  400m S along the rocky shore to fishing huts. 10 mins, 38.8697, 1.4046 hz-A

3 PLATJA DE SES SALINES This long, wide, sandy beach in the Ses Salines Natural Park is popular and has a large car park, so is best visited out of season. Sandy trails through pine forests lead you to different points along it, and you should find some quieter spots. Follow E-20 from Ibiza town S to ,  roundabout where it becomes EI-800, and take PM-802/E1-900 heading S. Follow 5km, crossing Ses Salines salt flats, to roundabout. Here turn L following sign for Ses Salines beach parking, follow 300m to end (38.8431, 1.3905). Follow trails S to beach; there are a few. 2 mins, 38.8424, 1.3849 qk14 PLATJA ES CAVALLET Flanked by sand dunes and a large pine forest, this long, sandy beach with crystalclear turquoise water is best discovered out of season, when you can have the whole stretch to yourselves. Fabulous fish restaurant La Escollera (see entry) at the north end, a chiringuito at the south, and often quieter midway between them. Park as for Platja de Ses Salines (see entry), ,  but follow signed forest trail heading E from car park just over 1km. Alternatively, for N

end of beach, turn L off PM-802/E1-900 just before it crosses the salt flats, signed Capella de la Revista, and follow 1km to car park R. 15 mins, 38.8446, 1.4024 qk1-z 5 PUNTA DE SA TORRE DE SES PORTES These natural pools were formed by the ancient quarrying of rock to build the walls of Dalt Vila (see entry), and now provide a wonderful, well-hidden natural playground. Overlooked by the old watchtower Torre de Ses Portes. Park as for Platja de Ses Salines (see entry), ,  but follow forest trail heading E from car park signed for Platja des Cavallet. Bear R at around 1km toward tower at end of headland, and look out for quarry formations along coast before you arrive. You can also walk along the seafront from Ses Salines, passing coves and carved rocks. 20 mins, 38.8328, 1.4040 hzA01Q 6 ES BOL NOU This long, pebbly beach lies below huge red clay cliffs which also divide it into sections: if you turn right on reaching the shore and scramble along the rocks you will find plenty of little hidden-away spots. You can also climb up the hill to the east of the beach and

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11 XX find the Sa Caleta Phoenician settlement and Coastal Battery (see entries) that look out over the beach. From Ibiza town, head W on EI700 for ,  7km, take L signed Sa Caleta, follow just under 4km take R signed for Sa Caleta, and prominently Sa Caleta Restaurant. Follow 250m to parking R near beach, next to restaurant. 2 mins, 38.8682, 1.3320 q1-9 7 SA CALETA Quiet cove with crystal-clear water encircled by with a semicircle of traditional fishing huts, and surrounded in turn by pine forests. Spread out your towel on an unused slipway and dive into the beautiful water. This is a harbour with a long history, once used by the Phoenician settlement (see entry) on the headland to the south. Park as for Es Bol Nou (see entry) and walk ,  E past the chiringuito on trail into trees and uphill, crossing headland. 10 mins, 38.8689, 1.3353 q1-

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8 PORROIG This little cove lined with fishing huts has beautiful, clear water to swim in and stunning views. Very quiet.

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Ibiza South

Take EI-700 from Ibiza town W for just over ,  8.5km, and turn left onto Carrer de Porroig, signed es Cubells/Porroig/es Torrent. Follow 5.5km and as road descends to sea ahead look for a gravelled turnoff R to a little ruined building, just after a hairpin bend; drive in and park (only room for a couple of cars), follow steps down to beach. 2 mins, 38.8667, 1.3052 1-A 9 CALA ES CUCÓ This sheltered, pebbly cove is quite hidden away below the cliffs and so is not frequented much by visitors on foot; it has traditional fishing huts and at times a few boats moored nearby. The stones give way to sand under the turquoise water. Turn off EI-700 as for Porroig after about ,  4km park in a sandy layby R (38.8712, 1.3030) and look for zig-zag path R down steep slope. 5 mins, 38.8704, 1.3037 h110 ES NIU DE S’ÀGUILA This pebbly beach is known for its line of four large rocks leading out to sea; the tallest is said to have supported an eagle’s nest, giving the beach its name. To the western end there are some fun ladders, ramps and platforms, like a giant playground

XX 12 between the huge rocks, leading up to the (private) road above. Fairly quiet, because there is no public vehicle access and the path needs proper footwear. In the coastal village of Es Cubells, turn off ,  main road in front of the large white church, signed Platja des Cubells/Platja de ses Boques. Follow 1.6km, with hairpin through village, to signed L for Restaurant Ses Boques Beach (see entry), take this down to park. From beach head R 500m; you will need to clamber over rocks to get along to this stretch of shoreline. 15 mins, 38.8725, 1.2616 vhA 11 CALA LLENTRISCA This is one of the most isolated beaches on Ibiza, at the end of a private road and rugged path, but it is worth making the effort to see the wonderful views and have the place to yourselves. There is a little wooden jetty you can jump off into the water near the traditional fishing huts, and the water is a breathtaking shade of blue. Start as for Es Niu de s’Àguila (see entry) but ,  follow road past Ses Boques 150m to deadend sign and security cabin. Say you are visiting Cala Llentrisca and they will usually take your number and let you in. Follow road, which deteriorates as it goes, and park where you

can without inconveniencing residents. Trail starts behind last house on the road, after 2km (38.8660, 1.2544), leading about 700m down to cove; walking shoes recommended. 30 mins, 38.8628, 1.2533 UhzA 12 SA PEDRERA DE CALA D’HORT A stunning old quarry at the bottom of the cliffs, just across from the fabled island of Es Vedrà, ‘Atlantis’ is the place everyone has heard about, but it is a very well-hidden spot and hard to reach, At the end of a tough hike down over rough terrain you find a magical place with vivid tidal pools to dip in and towering rock formations covered in carvings. Swim, explore, and experience a core part of Ibizan hippy history. From the centre of Sant Josep de sa Talaia, ,  head SW dir Cala D’Hort on Avenida Cubells then PMV-803-1 for 8.5km. Descending with sea ahead, take small L with red heritage sign for Torre de Savinar (see entry), follow 600m to parking at R bend; if busy you may have to park back near road. Take L track from car park, away from tower and Es Vedrà viewpoint (see entry), uphill into the forest to stone labyrinths (38.8763, 1.2314). From here a path leads down the cliffs. 30 mins, 38.8725, 1.2308 6vhzw

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XX 14 13 CALA D’HORT A charming white, sandy cove dominated by a view to iconic Es Vedrà. Busy in high season, with a chiringuito on the beach, but you can climb up high to the south end for a wonderful spot to watch the sun sink behind the island. From the centre of Sant Josep de sa Talaia, ,  head SW on Avenida Cubells then PMV-803-1 for just over 9km. At crossroads PMV-803-1 bends sharp R, continue straight signed Cala d’Hort. Follow 1km to parking at end near beach, but when busy you may have to park further out. 3 mins, 38.8902, 1.2242 q-'k1

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14 CALA CARBÓ This little cove is protected by a horseshoe of rocky cliffs that perfectly frame the sunset, and there are a couple of lovely restaurants just by the beach so you can have dinner with a beautiful panorama. Climb round the headland a little for a cracking view of Es Vedrà. From the centre of Sant Josep de sa Talaia, ,  head W on Carretera de Sant Josep/EI-700 about 700m and turn L signed for several beaches including Cala Carbó. Follow Cala Carbó signs at roundabout after 1km (L onto

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Ibiza South

PMV-803-1), L after 5km then shortly R and L again at T junction, and follow this road (Camí Cala Carbó/Carrer de Cala Carbó) 1.7km to parking R. Walk on 100m to beach. 3 mins, 38.8948, 1.2182 6k1 15 CALA MOLÍ Lovely sand and shingle cove with perfect sunset views and a unique chiringuito right on the beach, El Silencio, which has an area filled with modern art installations. From the centre of Sant Josep de sa Talaia, ,  head W on Carretera de Sant Josep/EI-700 about 700m and turn L signed for several beaches including Cala Molí (Avenida Cala Tarida), follow signs straight at roundabout after 1km, and L at mini roundabout 3.5km after. Continue 800m and take hairpin R onto Avinguda de Cala Molí, follow 300m to park at beach. 2 mins, 38.9299, 1.2329 qk1 16 CALA TARIDA The main beach here is busy and familyoriented, but is known for great cliff jumping. There are two smaller beaches to the northern end, Cala Tarida Pequeña and Playa de los Pescadores Tarida further along, with fishing huts and places to swim off the

XX 16 rocks, and some nice hiking behind them. Both are tricky to access, so quieter spots to swim from; scramble down the hill to reach them. Heading S on EI-700 from Sant Antoni, ,  take signed R for Cala Tarida about 450m S of the main Sant Antoni junction (38.9415, 1.2905), follow 2.5km to turn L at roundabout. Continue 2km and take L fork signed Cala Tarida, follow 2km and continue straight over mini roundabout to find a large car park at end (38.9427, 1.2357). Walk S down steps signed as beach access, or take trail to R of this, past graffitied building, and head down from hairpin bend to smaller satellite beaches. 5 mins, 38.9414, 1.2349 T1v17 CALA CORRAL A classic Ibizan cove with a crescent of little fishing huts, a quiet spot to jump in for a swim from the rocks and relax in the sunshine. Some shingle, mostly boat ramps and rocks. Start as for Cala Tarida (see entry), but ,  when car park appears on L take R signed Cala Corral and Port esportiu by the car rental, to car park L after 200m. Follow path by car park past the little harbour and on to cove. 5 mins, 38.9450, 1.2328 hq-1

18 CALA LLENTIA This tiny beach nestled in the cliffs is tricky to find and reach, which keeps it beautifully quiet; most people just come to see the Time and Space (see entry) stone circle on the headland. You will need to scramble carefully down a very steep slope. Do watch out for recent rockfall, and ensure you will be able to get back up again afterwards. Heading S on EI-700 from Sant Antoni, ,  take signed R for Cala Tarida about 450m S of the main Sant Antoni junction (38.9415, 1.2905), follow 2.5km to turn L at roundabout. Follow just over 3km and turn L onto a dirt track signed Cala Codolar, continue 1km to Es Pujolets and park R (38.9478, 1.2303). Walk to sea past stone circle, follow headland N around 400m to find beach and steep path – be very careful. 20 mins, 38.9481, 1.2279 vUh1 19 CALA CODOLAR A relaxed cove off the beaten track, with a platform to jump into the sea from a little chiringuito on the shore. The beach is mostly sandy but also has quite a lot of pebbles, called còdols in Catalan and giving the beach its name.

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XX 20 Start as for Cala Llentia (see entry), but ,  about 850m along the dirt track turn R and follow road 650m to parking. Walk downhill to beach. 10 mins, 38.9502, 1.2278 q1s 20 CALA ESCONDIDA Home to one of the island’s most sustainable beach bars, this is a wonderful spot for the classic Ibiza sunset experience, when drummers gather to play as the sun goes down. Cala Escondida is made up of sand and stones, with lots of spots to enter the water from the rocks, and a smaller hidden beach lies 100m to the left along the headland. You can also walk from here to the enormous sea cave Sa Figuera Borda (see entry). Heading S on EI-700 from Sant Antoni, ,  take signed R for Cala Tarida about 450m S of the main Sant Antoni junction (38.9415, 1.2905), follow 2.5km to turn L at roundabout. Continue on this road for 5km, following signs to parking at very end. Don’t park on the road, you may get a ticket. Head L from parking for 200m to path and steps down. 5 mins, 38.9607, 1.2197 6kq-

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sea caves 21 CUEVA DE LOS SASTRES A short walk away from the busy beach of Cala Bassa lies an opening to this enormous sea cave: scramble down carefully and you have a perfect spot for a dip away from the crowds. There are several breathtaking sea caves to explore around this area and loads of sea life to spot, so we recommend bringing a snorkel and swimming around this whole headland. Heading S on EI-700 from Sant Antoni, take ,  signed R for Cala Bassa about 450m S of the main Sant Antoni junction (38.9415, 1.2905), follow 2.5km to turn L at roundabout. After 450m take fork R signed Cala Bassa. Follow 3km to paid car park L for beach. Walk E for 50m from gate, you almost fall into the cave. Or enter the water from the rocks and snorkel your way around. 10 mins, 38.9663, 1.2429 E9W1 22 SA FIGUERA BORDA This cavernous tunnel through a tawny headland over a blue bay is brilliant to explore; you can enter the sea from rocks on either side of the arch, which contains fishing huts. Sometimes known as the rave

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its stunning location is surrounded by olive groves and lemon trees. Es Cubells is reached from the N on a ,  branch of PM-803-1. Car park R and church L as you enter village. 1 min, 38.8813, 1.2722 sqz 24 DALT VILA WALLED CITY The old neighbourhood of Dalt Vila is visible across Ibiza town, and entered through one of five gates in the fortified Renaissance walls, which you can also walk along. It is dominated by the huge Castell d’Eivissa, where over a thousand years of history can be seen, right back to an 8th-century Moorish keep. The whole of Dalt Vila is now a protected UNESCO World Heritage site, a wonderful place to get lost in the narrow winding streets between bougainvilleadraped houses, discovering magic places to eat and viewpoints all along the way. The Portal de ses Taules (38.9082, 1.4366) ,  is the main and most imposing entrance and the perimeter walk can be started from the Sant Llúcia bastion just to the E; it is about 2km, with some parts in tunnels, and includes the castle, cathedral and an information centre. Within the walls, simply wander. 8 hours, 38.9066, 1.4356 Qq

XX 25 cave, it has in the past hosted pop-up club nights that are part of Ibiza legend. Heading S on EI-700 from Sant Antoni, ,  take signed R for Cala Tarida about 450m S of the main Sant Antoni junction (38.9415, 1.2905), follow 2.5km to turn L at roundabout. Continue on this road for 5km, following signs to parking, but just before car park take dirt road L. Follow 450m past houses, turn L toward monolithic block in landscape, go R past this to park on open area on cliff. Walk S, look for the old block stairs near tip of headland on S side and descend carefully to the cave. 10 mins, 38.9551, 1.2185 9E1

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castles & churches 23 ESGLÉSIA MARE DE DÉU DEL CARME, ES CUBELLS You may never find a church, or a village, with better views. The traditional church is on the site of a chapel built by the original 19th-century Es Vedrà hermit. Walk around to the back terrace to enjoy panoramic views over to Formentera and follow the zig-zag paths down to the shrine, or walk all the way to the beach below. Stop for refreshment in the square to soak up this lovely village and

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towers & tunnels 25 TORRE DES CARREGADOR This watchtower is one of the oldest on the island, built at the same time as the walls of Dalt Vila (see entry) to provide protection from pirate attacks to the salt pan workers and the little port below (see Sal Rossa Playa entry). In summer the inside can be visited for unparalleled panoramas; at other times there are beautiful views from the headland. Follow E-20 from Ibiza town S to ,  roundabout where it becomes EI-800, and take PM-802/E1-900 heading S. Follow 2km, turn L just after bar San Fransisco opposite salt flats, signed Torre des Carregador, then immediately L again also signed to the tower, follow 1.4km and pull off to park at signs L for tower (38.8728, 1.4033). Walk up from parking to tower. 2 mins, 38.8733, 1.4040 67zA 26 TORRE DES SAVINAR Built in the 18th century, this watchtower was cast as ‘the Pirate Tower’ by celebrated 19th-century novelist Vicente Blasco Ibanez. It is an arduous climb and not well signposted, but absolutely worthwhile for an unrivalled sunset

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27 XX viewpoint: the tower is 200m above sea level on a dramatic rocky promontory, looking directly out to the island of Es Vedrà, behind which the sun sinks. From the centre of Sant Josep de sa Talaia, ,  head SW dir Cala D’Hort on Avenida Cubells then PMV-803-1 for 8.5km. Descending with sea ahead, take small L with red heritage sign for Torre de Savinar, follow 600m to parking in R bend (if busy you may have to park back near road). Walk downhill towards Es Vedrà viewpoint (see entry) and watch for red sign L for trail uphill to tower, easily missed. 30 mins, 38.8742, 1.2284 678E 27 SA CALETA COASTAL BATTERY These gun emplacements and bunk rooms on the headland were built in the 1930s to protect the airport during the Spanish Civil War. Now covered in graffiti, the tunnels are fun to explore with a torch, popping up in different places, even at a window cut through the cliff from which you can look down to the beach of Es Bol Nou (see entry). From Ibiza town, head W on EI700 for ,  7km, take L signed Sa Caleta, follow just under 4km take R signed for Sa Caleta, and more prominently Sa Caleta Restaurant. Follow 250m to parking R near beach, next

to restaurant. Walk over headland, and from the top you will see structures on the edge before the Sa Caleta Phonecian settlement (see entry). Tunnel through cliffs is R before the building as you ascend headland (38.8681, 1.3329). 10 mins, 38.8672, 1.3341 A79

ancient 28 SA CALETA PHOENICIAN SETTLEMENT The Phoenicians settled this headland around 650BC, exploiting the salt marshes. The fenced remains are just a small part of what they built: the headland has eroded since, and the Sa Caleta Coastal Battery (see entry) destroyed much of what remained before the foundations were discovered in the 1980s. With stunning views all around, this is a UNESCO World Heritage site and free to visit. Park and walk up to the Sa Caleta Battery, ,  and continue along the path for another 100m. 10 mins, 38.8677, 1.3297 Q867 29 PUIG DE MOLINS NECROPOLIS The exceptional necropolis is the largest, oldest, and best-preserved in the islands and a UNESCO World Heritage site. It

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30 SES PAÏSSES DE CALA D’HORT This fascinating archaeological site has both settlement and necropolis remains dating from the Phoenicians through the Roman era to Vandal invasion in the 5th century and Moorish incursions in the 8th. A rural setting with stunning views across to Es Vedrà, it has a museum you can visit as well as a whole area of ruins to discover. From the centre of Sant Josep de sa ,  Talaia, head W on Carretera de Sant Josep/ EI-700 about 700m and turn L signed for

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dates back to the 7th century BC and contains some 3,000 tombs, although only 340 are visible, and sits in the heart of Ibiza town, below the ramparts of Dalt Vila (see entry). There is a museum, but you can then also wander among the entrance shafts to the hypogea, and walk up the hill through a beautiful tree-filled meadow for a fabulous viewpoint over the city. Entry through Puig des Molins Monographic ,  Museum, Vía Romana 31, 07800 Eivissa, +34 971 176090. Hours vary through week, generally morning to early afternoon and Friday evenings. Parking in street is metered. 4 hours, 38.9070, 1.4294 Q75q£

Ibiza South

several beaches including Cala Carbó. Follow Cala Carbó signs at roundabout after 1km (L onto PMV-803-1), L after 5km. After 1.5km a small red heritage sign R indicates site up dirt access L. Parking and museum at end. 1 min, 38.8915, 1.2393 8Q7

nature 31 SES SALINES The ‘Estanys des Roig’ or ‘red ponds’ of the salt flats here have been in production for thousands of years. They are of great importance to migratory bird populations, and a stunning spot to watch the bird life, especially the flamingo flocks that visit during the warmer months. Also perfect for catching a dramatic sunset, but do be aware the mosquitoes get up as the sun goes down. Heading to airport from Ibiza town on ,  EI-800, take PM-802 heading S signed es Cavallet and ses Salines. Just after 2km salt flats appear R. Several spots where you can pull off and watch birds before road bends R over flats. 2 mins, 38.8609, 1.3874 D6q

art experiences 32 TIME AND SPACE This fascinating sculpture by Andrew Rogers is often described as ‘Ibiza’s Stonehenge’, but it is very different, and has only been here since 2014. Thirteen vast basalt columns stand in a Fibonacci-inspired ellipse on the headland, commanding terrific views all around, and the tallest is topped with gold to catch the setting sun. It was commissioned by Guy Laliberté, founder of Cirque De Soleil, who lives here. Free to visit, together with Las Puertas de Can Soleil (see entry). Heading S on EI-700 from Sant Antoni, ,  take signed R for Cala Tarida about 450m S of the main Sant Antoni junction (38.9415, 1.2905), follow 2.5km to turn L at roundabout. Follow just over 3km and turn L onto a dirt track signed Cala Codolar, continue 1km to Es Pujolets and park R (38.9478, 1.2303). Walk on 120m to sculpture R. 2 mins, 38.9473, 1.2288 q*7z6 33 LAS PUERTAS DE CAN SOLEIL This work is a companion to the larger Time and Space (see entry) and stands within sight of it. Two mysterious doorways, one with carved Arabic doors, give access to a ‘room’ with stone walls you could step over, like a Phoenician ruin. It is fascinating to walk around and see how they frame the superb views, from the nearby sculpture to the distant isle of Es Vedrà. Park and walk to Time and Space, then walk ,  about 160m N. 5 mins, 38.9488, 1.2290 q*7z6

hikes & viewpoints 34 SA TALAIA The tallest mountain on Ibiza, also called Sa Talaiassa, rears up 457m above sea level but is not too difficult to hike up. There are great views all the way up, from a rural landscape dotted with traditional houses, to stunning panoramas from the top right across the island out to Formentera and even mainland Spain on a clear day. Proper footwear and water are a must! Park in Sant Josep de Sa Talaia village ,  and start from church. Cross road and walk down L side of bar opp, then R across back and uphill, following Carrer de Sa Talaia around bend R and hairpin L onto Carrer des Pujol d’En Cardona. Follow 500m to T junction, turn R. After 60m take signed path with rope L (38.9193, 1.2876 ). Follow path to summit and past

XX 35 telecommunications masts for views – whole route about 2.5km. 75 mins, 38.9113, 1.2741 6z 35 ES VEDRÀ VIEWPOINT A dramatic stretch of clifftop from which to see the celebrated island of Es Vedrà, particularly breathtaking at sunset as the sun sets right behind it. The island has been a spiritual icon for millennia: in ancient tales, it was home to the sirens and the goddess Tanit, healing plants and a fierce giant. In recent times, it has starred in music videos, and this exact view appeared on the cover of Mike Oldfield’s album Voyager. On the headland above is the Torre de Savinar, an alternative viewpoint with an arduous climb (see entry). From centre of Sant Josep de sa Talaia, ,  head SW dir Cala D’Hort on Avenida Cubells then PMV-803-1 for 8.5km. Descending with sea ahead, take small L with red heritage sign for Torre de Savinar, follow 600m to parking in R bend (if busy you may have to park back near road). Walk downhill from the car park through the forest along the track until you see the island rising in front of you. 15 mins, 38.8759, 1.2280 86

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Cala Es Xarco, Porroig, 07839 Sant Josep ,  de sa Talaia, +34 971 187867 38.8686, 1.3116 s 39 LA ESCOLLERA Laidback but elegant and pricey fish restaurant, with magical evening views down Platja Es Cavallet (see entry). Open all year round but ring ahead, because it is a popular place for private functions. Platja Es Cavallet, 07817 Sant Jordi de ses ,  Salines, +34 971 396572 38.8501, 1.4021 s

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chiringuitos 36 CALA CODOLAR This chiringuito sits on a lovely beach of the same name (see entry). The simple wooden shack has been run by the same family since 1974 and offers cocktails and chilled wines along with simple but delicious meals and tapas. Carrer Codolar 14, 07829 Sant Josep, ,  +34 672 243163 38.9502, 1.2278 s

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37 ES JARDI AT SA CALETA This laid back ‘chill-out zone’ on Es Bol Nou (see entry) is well known for its summer concerts and homemade local liqueur Hierbas, and the shady garden is particularly lovely on hot days. Attached to the longestablished Sa Caleta restaurant above the beach, which is perfect for a traditional meal. Playa es Bol Nou/Sa Caleta, 07818 Sant ,  Jordi de Ses Salines, +34 971 187095 38.8682, 1.3320 s

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fresh fish 38 ES XARCU This restaurant is right by the beach, but a long way from a casual chiringuito. Sit on the terrace that reaches to the water’s edge, with a lovely wooden jetty just outside and magnificent views, and dine on freshly caught fish and shellfish, traditionally cooked.

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40 ES TORRENT This lovely beachfront eatery started as a wooden shack and has earned a great reputation as one of the best places for lobster, paella and fish stew, with ingredients sourced as close to home as possible. A destination restaurant for the summer, so advisable to call ahead. Playa Es Torrent, s/n, 07830 Sant Josep, ,  +34 971 802160 38.8751, 1.2988 s 41 SES BOQUES Lovely family-run fish restaurant with sea views. Book ahead in high season and try their specialty, roasted fish in a salt crust, maybe followed by a delicious pastry. Playa de Ses Boques, 07839 Sant Josep de ,  sa Talaia, +34 606 081570 38.8764, 1.2653 s

hidden gems 42 RESTAURANTE ES CUBELLS A lovely, simple restaurant in the village square with a terrace just opposite the traditional church (see entry). Serving traditional grilled meats and fish, it’s a perfect pit stop when exploring the village. Carrer es Cubells 2, 1, 07839 Es Cubells, ,  +34 971 802797 38.8816, 1.2722 s 43 S’ESCALINATA This little gem tucked away in the old town of Dalt Villa is, as the name suggests, on a staircase. Lounge on bean bags on the cobbled steps of the street, soak up the hippy atmosphere and enjoy cocktails and tapas as you watch the sun set over the old town. Carrer des Portal Nou 10, 07800 Eivissa, ,  +34 653 371356 38.9079, 1.4339 s

Carrer Valladolid 1-3, 07829 San Agustín, ,  +34 971 345000 38.9629, 1.2694 sg

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16 17 47 HOSTAL SALINAS Set in the Ses Salines Natural Park, this funky little 3 hotel is simple yet chic, with a Buscastell lovely friendly atmosphere, drumming and 14 evenings and couscous and vegan healing nights 13 23 25in the restaurant. In a great position 21

camping

camping 48 CAMPING CALA BASSA Pitch your tent in the shade of the trees, or rent one of the small bungalows or mobile homes. There is a pool, BBQ area, children’s playground, restaurant and fresh bread daily. Only 600m from popular Cala Bassa beach (see entry) with cool seacaves like Cueva de los Sastres (see entry) to explore. Carretera Cala Bassa, 07829 San José–San ,  Agustin Santa Gertrudis de Fruitera 38.9633, 1.2419 d 24

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45 HOTEL SES PITRERAS This contemporary boutique hotel is a luxurious treat, with only seven rooms, a spa and a splendid restaurant. Fabulously positioned near many of the island’s great beaches and the sunset coastline.

46 LOS JARDINES DE PALERM Sleek, contemporary design sets this hotel apart. Just outside the village of San Josep with only nine bedrooms, but boasting two swimming pools and beautiful secluded grounds. Santa Agnès de Corona Can Pujol d’en Cardona ,  19 34, 2007830 SantN-2 Josep de sa Talaia, +34 971 800318 S/ 38.9218, 1.2906 g

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44 PETUNIA This boutique hotel has an absolutely gorgeous location, with views right across to Es Vedrà and extensive gardens to explore. Rooms and apartments, and even a farm-totable rooftop restaurant with breathtaking views, La Mirada, where you can also book as a non-guest. Carrer de Sa Pala Marina, Cala Carbó 07830 ,  Sant Josep de sa Talaia, +34 971 808197 38.8982, 1.2202 sg

near the beautiful beaches of the south coast and the dramatic salt flats. Carretera Sa Canal de Ses Salines, km 5, 07817 ,  Sant Jordi de Ses Salines, +34 971 308899 38.8440, 1.3864 sg

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ibiza central Our perfect weekend , Snorkel from Cala Gracio to Cala Gracioneta and marvel at all the amazing fish, then enjoy brunch on the beach in the chiringuito , Hike through wild forests and negotiate an abandoned tunnel to find the secret beach of Cala Blanca , Wander around the sleepy little inland villages or farmland lanes between shady pines and picturesque orchards , Marvel at the ancient Moorish terraces and stone canals in the beautiful valley of Es Broll , Scramble down the near-vertical drop to the hidden beach of Ses Balandres using ladders and ropes , Jump off the rocks for a swim or watch the sun go down from the rocks at the old quarry of Punta Galera , Play a round of pétanque and feast on excellent local fare in the secluded courtyard of Can Cires restaurant

Travelling into the heart of Ibiza is a little like stepping back in time. The tiny villages feel as if they have not changed for many centuries, with whitewashed cottages and narrow winding streets that open onto village squares with enormous churches. Much of this area is still given over to farming, with fields, orchards and vineyards growing richly in the dark red soil. Olive groves, carob, fig and almond trees are surrounded by low, dry-stone walls and sleepy roads, and you can wind your way along them for ages barely seeing another soul.

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The billowing fields of almond blossoms in the winter months here are a particular wonder, and full-moon walks through the almond groves are a January tradition in the village of Santa Agnés de Corona. The village of Santa Gertrudis de Fruitera has developed a reputation as the foodie place to visit on Ibiza, with a wide selection of fabulous restaurants in the central square and a real emphasis on local farm-to-table food, prepared with traditional methods and recipes. The centre of the island is also where most of the best places to stay are located: centuries-old farmhouses converted into agroturismos, or small, boutique hotels in the middle of nowhere, offering typical Ibizan charm and style in absolute peace and quiet.

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This section of the island on the western side is also where the biggest Ibizan adventures are to be found by the bravest souls. The secret beach of Ses Balandres can only be reached via ladders and ropes down an almost sheer cliff, and you must brave a tunnel under a mountain after a long scrambly hike through a dense pine forest to reach Cala Blanca. Most dramatic of all, in the deep sea cave of Na Coloms you can jump down into a turquoise pool, but must swim out through an underwater tunnel.

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coast 1 CALA GRACIO A pristine little beach, a stone’s throw from Sant Antoni de Portmany. It can get quite busy during peak season, but apart from a little chiringuito it is relatively undeveloped and in a beautiful location. There is some brilliant snorkelling to be done here, and around the headland to the north you will find its tiny sister beach Cala Gracioneta (see entry). Head north out of St Antoni on the PM-812 ,  and at the roundabout take the exit signed Cap Negret. At T junction turn R signed Cala Gracioneta, follow 900m and just after Marble hotel R take L signed Cala Gracio and follow to car park L at end. 2 mins, 38.9921, 1.2901 q-ks 2 CALA GRACIONETA This tiny cove makes up in personality for what it lacks in size, with cute little stone steps leading up to the headland path and rocks to spread out on if the sand is busy. The chiringuito at the back has a wonderful atmosphere with chilled out music and a real Ibizan vibe. Snorkelling around the rocks you can see so many fish it seems unreal at times.

Park as for from Cala Gracio and walk or ,  swim round the headland N. Alternatively walk down through back of the chiringuito, signed R just before you reach the car park. 10 mins, 38.9929, 1.2891 s-q 3 CALA SALADA & SALADETA Cala Salada is the bigger of these two beaches, and has a great family atmosphere, white sand, turquoise sea, a simple chiringuito and surrounded by pine forests. We love the smaller and just as beautiful satellite beach Cala Saladeta for a quieter, untamed beach experience with no facilities. From San Antonio, take the PM-812 ,  north, about 850m after passing the sports centre and skatepark on R turn L signed Cala Salada. Follow signs to beach at end, parking alongside road where you can. Walk to beach; walk and scramble along low cliff at N end for Cala Saladeta. 10 mins, 39.0101, 1.2989 kq

adventure beaches 4 SES BALANDRES This utterly remote and stunning beach, with beautiful views across to the islet of Ses Margalides, is worth the effort it takes

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7 XX to reach it. At first when you peer down the almost sheer cliffs it looks impossible, but fishermen have installed steps, rickety ladders, and ropes to help with the arduous climb. It is an exhilarating venture, but not for the fainthearted or less agile. Wear sturdy shoes, watch out for any recent rockfalls and assess the safety level on the day. Park in large car park in Santa Agnès de ,  Corona (39.0380, 1.3352). Walk W up the road Pla de Corona 500m to fork with old well on R, take dirt road R uphill. Once past houses, look out for a stone wall, go R, stay on larger path (becoming smaller) through forest all the way to cliff. Descend very carefully using ladders and ropes. 45–60 mins, 39.0479, 1.3259 hvuAE 5 CALA D’ALBARCA This rocky cove with lovely clear water is undeveloped and usually completely empty. It is a bit of a hike and steep scramble to get down, but the path descends through a beautiful forest and past an amazing natural stone bridge, Puente de Piedra (see entry). Signed from the tiny village of Sant ,  Mateu d’Albarca, heading N with church

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on your R. After about 1.75km take a R exit onto unmarked dirt road by a house in small stand of trees. Follow about 1.2km to park under trees (39.0610, 1.3820) then look for slightly hidden trail just beyond heading steeply down in zig-zags towards sea. 45 mins, 39.0620, 1.3755 Ewvho 6 ULLAL DE NA COLOMS This incredible sea cave is the ultimate adventure, and it should only be attempted with an experienced local guide. You enter from land, with light streaming down around you to illuminate the cave walls and make the water glow – this place is also called Cave of Light. Once you take the 6m jump into the beautiful bright turquoise pool, almost the only way out is through an underwater tunnel to the sea; the alternative rope climb is extremely tough. Parking is as for Cala d’A lbarca (see ,  entry) and a complex trail heads north from here. We recommend Balearic Outdoor Adventures (+34 646 265952) where Stivi specialises in bespoke adventures to remote and wild places. 3–4 hours, 39.0717, 1.3822 Ewvho

XX 9 7 ES PORTITXOL Notoriously hard to reach, this beach is absolutely worth the effort to find. With soaring cliffs all around you, crystalclear water and nothing but a handful of fishing huts at the shore, this is a perfect place to find some solitude and great swimming. From Sant Miguel de Balansat head W ,  on SN-2 SW, after 1.2km take R signed Portitxol. Follow 3.7km, bearing L at Urbanización Isla Blanca sign on wall R, to parking L at end of driveable road. Walk on around 350m and look for old stone wall on L. At this point, there will be a painted arrow indicating trail heading W along coast 1.5km down to the beach. It is steep and involves a fair bit of scrambling. 30 mins, 39.0744, 1.3979 hAo1E 8 CALA BLANCA Why would a majestic sweep of white pebbles surrounded by cliffs and pine forests, on a busy stretch of coast, be so quiet that even many locals don’t know it? Perhaps because reaching it involves a slightly treacherous walk and scramble through the pine forests, with steep drops at times, and even then it is hidden at the

end of a 100m tunnel. Of course, for some of us, these things make it the perfect spot. From S end of Santa Eularia follow ,  Carrer ses Dàlies S along coast as a dirt road for 1.5km to small layby R with fork ahead. Park and walk downhill on L fork 200m to house L and path into forest R marked by a red arrow spray-painted onto rocks. Follow red arrows along rough forest path, passing some treacherous cliff edges to reach tunnel through the rocks; look for the large stone tortoise as you go. Check for signs of recent rockfall. 45 mins, 38.9595, 1.5284 *vhvw

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southern coastline 9 CALA SOL D’EN SERRA This rock and pebble cove surrounded by tall, rugged cliffs is a beautiful spot for a snorkel. One end is overlooked by the fabulous Amante beach bar (see entry), the rest stretches away to become even quieter. Take PM810-1 Santa Eularia W about 3.5km ,  and take large signed L for Cala Llonga resort. Follow 1km through Cala Llonga, then R signed Sol d’en Serra and 900m to parking at beach. 2 mins, 38.9472, 1.5108 *-1

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10 XX 10 CALA OLIVERA A perfect, secluded little beach, reached at the end of a walk through the pine forest. Great swimming spots off the rocks, and if you scramble along the coast a short way to the west a fascinating large rock with a hole in the middle, like a low sea arch, comes into view. Follow PMV 810-1 SE from Santa Eularia for ,  7km. On hairpin R take large signed entrance to Roca Llisa and follow 1km keeping L at forks following Cala Olivera signs, and turn R signed Cala Olivera (Cami Olivers). This road deteriorates, so park and walk on, maximum 1.4km from turning. 15 mins, 38.9339, 1.5026 h-T

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11 CALA ESPART This pebbly cove is tucked away and little known, making it a quiet spot for a snorkel, with plenty of tree cover for shade. Start as for Cala Olivera (see entry) but ,  after turning into Roca Llisa take the R fork at 300m onto Carrer Can Ros past car park and recycling. Follow just over 1km to take a L fork, then the R option (Carrer Roma) all the way to the shore. Rough road and limited parking. 1 min, 38.9297, 1.4914 qA-1

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12 PLATJA DE S'ESTANYOL A charming little cove where a rocky shoreline gives way to a sandy seabed, and a jetty allows you to jump straight into the water. Further round the cove is another good place to enter the water, and the headland offers great snorkelling. Once you’ve worked up an appetite, there is a restaurant right on the beach (Cala Bonita, +34 605 450592). Where E20 and EI-300 merge at E of Ibiza ,  town, take PMV-801-1 from roundabout E for 900m and turn R onto Carrer des Cap Martinez, signed es Cap Martinet and s’Estanyol. At crossroads after 900m turn L signed Platja de s’Estanyol, continue about 1.5km to fork and take R. Follow dirt road 1.5km to parking at end by beach. 2 mins, 38.9254, 1.4865, -1*s

sunset spots 13 CAP NEGRET For the perfect sunset vistas, head up to Cap Negret. There are plenty of places to settle across the cliffs, so you can take a picnic or bottle of wine and enjoy a wonderful and free view. Or if you want to make it special, book a table at Hostal La Torre (see entry).

XX 14 Follow PM-812 from Sant Antoni de ,  Portmany N to roundabout, then follow road for Cap Negret 2km. Park on the road near Hostal La Torre and walk down path beside restaurant to back and headland. 5 mins, 38.9984, 1.2841 6 14 PUNTA GALERA This bay is an old stone quarry that has been left with a series of stone slab steps, perfect for jumping and swimming from or just lazing in the sunshine. The epic spit of rock jutting out from the shore is perfectly positioned for watching the sun setting over the island, and you can scramble along the top for amazing views, or down to the lovely little beach Platja de Sa Galera below. Follow PM-812 from Sant Antoni de ,  Portmany N over roundabout with Sa Capella restaurant, after 150m take unsigned L, take L fork after 700m onto dirt road, then R after 300m and R again 500m further. There is a tiny area to park right on the cliff edge, 300m on; be prepared to turn in a tight space and go back to find a spot, or simply pull off further back on this road and walk. 5 mins, 39.0036, 1.2906 6-T

natural wonders 15 PUENTE DE PIEDRA The Bridge of Stone is a breathtaking natural wonder. Shaped by erosion and rockfalls, this stone arch is around 28m above sea level. It is possible to cross it, and many people do, but we urge caution as the very processes that created it are still active. There is a walk through the pine forest to find this spot, which has wonderful views and you might spy birds of prey, including the elegant Eleanor’s falcon. Below lies Cala d’Albarca (see listing). Follow sign for Cala d’Albarca from the tiny ,  village of Sant Mateu, heading N with church on your right. After about, 1.75km take a right exit onto unmarked dirt road by a house in small stand of trees. Follow about 1.2km to park under trees (39.0610, 1.3820) then look for slightly hidden trail just beyond heading steeply down in zig-zags towards sea, the bridge will come into view ahead of you. 40 mins, 39.0646, 1.3790 EvwA 16 ES BROLL The river valley of Es Broll (literally ‘the stream’) contains an amazing thousandyear-old irrigation system dating back to the Arabic settlement of the island. The canals,

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stone pools and floodgates are still in place today, with crops planted up and down the hill on terraces. You can see small waterfalls in spring or after autumn rains, when the river is in spate, and enjoy hiking through the calm, green oasis for a real change of scene. On the SN2 road halfway between Sant ,  Agnès de Corona and Sant Mateu d’Albarca take turning signed Buscastell and Es Broll, follow 1.5km through farmland and forest to reach river from here on. No parking as such, this is a working landscape, but several safe spots to pull off and explore respectfully. 60–120 mins, 39.0216, 1.3639 zA

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17 COVA DE SES FONTANELLES This cave, named after the spring waters that used to flow in this area, is home to prehistoric cave paintings of ships and grapes dating back to the Phoenicians. They are now heavily protected with bars. The hike to the cave from Cala Salada (see entry) is a good enough reason in itself to visit – it can be fairly rough going at times, but there are spectacular views from the top! From San Antonio, take the PM-812 ,  north, about 850m after passing the sports centre and skatepark R turn L signed Cala Salada. Follow signs to beach at end, parking

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alongside road where you can. Follow the trail north from beach along headland until you see signs painted on trees and rocks for Cova, and follow these down a dirt track. 90 mins, 39.0222, 1.2941 vzQ 18 AQUARIUM CAP BLANC This cute little aquarium is built inside a natural cave on the coast. It was once used by local fishermen to keep live lobsters for the restaurant trade, but became a marine rescue centre to nurse sea creatures before returning them to the sea, which you can visit for a small fee. You might see small sharks, turtles or starfish here alongside many types of fish. Beautifully situated, with a friendly café above for a cold drink and even a jump off the rocks. From roundabout in NW of Sant Antony ,  de Portmany, follow Carretera de Cala Gracio about 600m and park on street. Path for coastal walkway about 250m N to aquarium is signed L (38.9896, 1.2926). Or park as for Cala Gracio (see entry), walk from S end up steps to road and take path signed for ferry across headland. 5 mins, 38.9892, 1.2895 q£Ds 19 SANTA AGNÈS ALMOND BLOSSOMS Ibiza in winter is a quite different island, and one place to be sure to visit is Es Pla

XX 19 de Corona, the agricultural fields around the tiny village of Santa Agnès de Corona. From late January the almond trees here bear clouds of fragrant blossoms for a few weeks, and are heaven to walk through. There is even an organised night walk on the full moon, starting from the church (details from local walking guides such as walkingibiza.com). Park in Santa Agnès de Corona village ,  car park; there are many fields and quiet lanes to S. For one 5km route, walk W about 650m and turn L into fields on dirt road. Follow 1.4km to T junction, turn R on tarmac road, follow back to Sant Agnès around fields and past Las Puertas del Cielo restaurant (see entry). 60–120 mins, 39.0376, 1.3242 z

eat 20 C’AN COSMI With informal tables inside and out and views of the church, the mountains, and the farmland nearby, this place does a great tortilla and is a good pit stop for lots of trails. Plaza de la Iglesia, s/n, 07828 Santa Agnès ,  de Corona, +34 971 805020 39.0385, 1.3360 s

21 CAN CIRES Local, seasonal Ibizan food, some from the garden next door, is served up in this gem of a restaurant in the charming village of Sant Mateu. There is a sunny outdoor terrace, a play area for children and a pétanque court. The owner is often seen walking around with a parrot on his shoulder. Camí de S Pla, 07816 Sant Mateu d’Albarca, ,  +34 971 805551 39.0395, 1.3817 sq 22 LAS PUERTAS DEL CIELO Called ‘Heaven’s Gates’ due to its absolutely incredible location, this restaurant is perched on the clifftop by a remote road in the hills. The view stretches right out to sea and along the headland, so it sensibly has an enormous outdoor BBQ and serves traditional, simple food in this heavenly setting. Wonderful for a sunset meal. Cami Des Pla de Corona, km 2, 07828 ,  Santa Agnès 39.0415, 1.3165 s6 23 HOSTAL LA TORRE This restaurant – part of a hotel – is perched on the cliffs near Sant Antoni, with panoramic views from Cap Negret. Simple

surroundings and fabulous food, with tables outside and benches scattered across the headland so you can order a drink and find your own spot from which to enjoy the spectacular sunset. Cap Negret 25, 07820 Sant Antoni de ,  Portmany, +34 971 342271 38.9981, 1.2854 s6 24 WILD BEETS This wonderful, plant-based restaurant in Santa Gertrudis is devoted to local, organic and seasonal produce. Truly tasty food in a stylish, contemporary setting. Carrer Venda de Can Llàtzer 9, 07814 Santa ,  Gertrudis de Fruitera, +34 971 197870 38.9979, 1.4300 s 25 CALA GRACIONETA CHIRINGUITO This chiringuito has a laid-back atmosphere, but with a real sense of beachy style. Delicious food cooked in a wood-fired oven in an open kitchen, great cocktails and located on the most lovely of beaches. On the pricey side, but worth it. Cala Gracioneta beach, 07820 Sant Antoni ,  de Portmany, +34 971 348338 38.9929, 1.2891

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26 AMANTE IBIZA A gorgeous setting overlooking the Cala Sol d’en Serra, this restaurant offers fresh fish, and a modern Mediterranean menu as well as cocktails and day beds you can hire. They also host movie nights under the stars! Cala Sol d’en Serra (Cala Llonga), 07849 ,  Santa Eulalia des Riu, +34 971 196176 38.9472, 1.5103 27 CAN CAUS This restaurant serves delicious local farm to table food and the complex in which it sits is dedicated to the production of traditional food and drinks – grilled meats a speciality. You can sit out on the terrace in the sunshine, or by the log fire in the winter. Carretera Sant Miguel, km 3.5, 07814 Santa ,  Gertrudis de Fruitera, +34 971 197516 38.9857, 1.4380 s

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sleep 28 CAN COSMI PRAT This agroturismo is simple and chic, in a building over 200 years old, with only 11 bedrooms and beautiful grounds. Organic food is grown on site, and it is near the charming foodie village of Santa Gertrudis de Fruitera. Camí Vell de Sant Mateu Poligono 27, ,  Numero 60, 07814 Ibiza, +34 871 110594 38.9881, 1.4036 sg 29 CAN PUJOLET A quiet oasis in the heart of the countryside with only ten rooms and an emphasis on sustainability and conservation. This small, whitewashed, family-run hotel was once a farm and still has beautiful orchards to wander through. Camino des Camp Vell Santa Ines, 07828 ,  Santa Agnès de Corona, +34 971 805170 39.0505, 1.3507 g

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30 CAN LLUC & VILLAS This rural country house is surrounded by pine forests and vineyards. Over 300 years old, it has been lovingly restored in traditional Ibizan style, with elegant rooms and villas of different sizes. Carretera Sant Rafel a Santa Agnès, ,  km 2, Camí des Tercet, 07816 Sant Rafel, +34 971 198673 38.9818, 1.3906 g XX 24

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46 31 LAS MARIPOSAS A charming little oasis of a hotel with traditional styling, set in carob, olive 34 and almond groves with fabulous views. Beautiful fresh breakfasts served EI- up 70 0 on a terrace adorned with deep pink bougainvillea. Camí des Fornas 74, San Rafael, 07816 ,  Ibiza, +34 687 041604 42 Es Cubells 38.9361, 1.4039 sg 23 40 9 7 37 627 38 28 8

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ibiza north Our perfect weekend , Drink orange juice straight from the orchard with your breakfast at Agroturismo Can Gall , Explore the hidden beach of Cala Es Canaret and hike around to find the Cova de Llevant sea cave ,Enjoy   delicious fresh ceviche and an ice-cold drink from the chiringuito on the sands of Cala Xuclar , Jump off the rocks, swing on the ropes and explore the sea cave at Cala Xarraca , Kayak to the Illa de Tagomago in the marine reserve from Platja d’es Figueral and enjoy the rich underwater world , Swim from Cala Mastella to the legendary hidden beach restaurant El Bigotes , Jump or bodyboard at Cala de Boix before lunch at the chiringuito on the shore , Hike up the pine-clad hill to visit Cova des Culleram, the ancient shrine to the goddess Talit, and enjoy stunning views across the island. , Climb the ropes up into the secret Cova des Sants to find jellyfish-like calcite formations , Sleep under the trees in your tent or rent a quirky painted caravan at Camping la Playa

The north of Ibiza is rugged and wild, with hairpin coastal roads following the towering limestone cliffs through dense pine forests and offering brief glimpses of turquoise sea between the trees. Much of the north is included in the natural park of Es Amunts, which covers 15,000 hectares and is home to many endemic bird species such as the Balearic warbler as well as birds of prey like the peregrine falcon and Eleonora’s falcon, which nest high in the cliffs. XX 1

The beaches here are rockier, and some have darker sand due to the geology of the area, but beautifully clear water and rows of iconic fishing huts are still on offer. Towering cliffs often shelter tiny coves, and proper walking shoes are recommended for exploring here. This part of the island is also the least populated and has a distinctly laid back, hippy vibe, but many of the tiny coves will still have a little chiringuito on the shore, with fresh food and cold drinks served upon simple tables on the sand under palm-fringed roofs. Inland, lush green forests fringe traditional farmland and tiny whitewashed villages. Fields of almond, carob and fig trees are surrounded by dry stone walls, the air rich with the scent of rosemary, thyme and lavender that grows almost everywhere.

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Climbing steeply uphill to visit the shrine Cova des Culleram you get a real sense of the extraordinary greenness of this landscape. There is also a stunning view over to the sea where you can see the Illa de Tagomago and numerous other islets dotting the coastline, tempting you to explore what lies around the corner. 5 1 XX

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sant llorenç coast 1 CALÓ DES MOLTONS This tiny, sheltered cove was home to a chiringuito, but was recently declared a ‘virgin beach’ so should be even quieter, with just sand and fishing huts. Great snorkelling due to the rocky seabed and some good rock jumping here. Take EI-400 from Sant Miquel de Balansat ,  N to resort of Port de Sant Miquel and park as near to the beach as possible. At far L of beach follow trail up the hill into the trees, and around headland past Illot des Xigarros to find the cove. 10 mins, 39.0811, 1.43766 z1T 2 BENIRRÁS This sweep of white sand is far from quiet on a Sunday, as crowds gather through the day to listen to the drummers as the sun sets in a real Ibizan hippy tradition. But it is quieter on other days and one of the absolute best spots to watch the sunset, so scramble over the rocks and up the hills on either side to find a perfect spot all to yourself. Take SN-1 from Sant Miquel de Balansat ,  W towards Sant Joan de Labritja, look out for a signed left turn then follow the Benirrás

road all the way to the beach, with parking. On summer Sunday afternoons take the shuttle bus from Ibiza town via Can Coroner, the road is closed to private cars to limit congestion. 2 mins, 39.0892, 1.4537 K6 3 CALÓ DE S’ILLA This rugged, secluded little pebble cove, also known as Moon Beach, is totally isolated and has no facilities, just a couple of fishing huts, so there is usually hardly anyone here. You can swim, snorkel or almost hop over to the little island from the headland here and explore. Head W on PM-811 from Sant Joan ,  de Labritja, then R at roundabout signed Portinatx (EI-300), follow 1.8km and take L signed es Caló de s’Illa. Stay on this road nearly 4km, bearing R at first fork, staying L at second fork (don’t take Cala Xarraca turn). Road begins to deteriorate near coast, so you may want to park before end (39.0988, 1.4703) and walk the last bit. 15 mins, 39.0994, 1.4648 h'vwAU 4 CALA ES CANARET This secluded cove was once only accessible through the grounds of a private home with a tower; they have

opened up a pathway now, but it still feels super secret when you get there. Beautiful turquoise water, fishing huts and a mix of sand and stone with some amazing rock formations to swim or snorkel around. While devastated by fire in recent times, the area where the huge pine forest once stood is slowly coming back to life. There is a lovely satellite beach if you are prepared to scramble or swim around. Head W on PM-811 from Sant Joan de ,  Labritja, then R at roundabout signed Portanix (EI-300), follow 1.8km and take L signed es Caló de s’Illa (see entry). Stay on this road nearly 1.5km, bearing R at first fork, and then take R fork signed Xarraca, then take third dirt road L after about 400m. You will arrive at the drive to a house after 1km, turn R here up headland to parking spot (39.1029, 1.4878) follow path behind it to cove. 10 mins, 39.1026, 1.4851 h-1AEU 5 COVA DE LLEVANT This grotto-like sea cave is reached by a very rugged coastal footpath and is a fun spot to explore. If you follow the headland round from Cala Es Canaret (see entry) you will cross an almost lunar landscape of honeycomb rock dotted with pools. First you

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XX 9 pass a smaller cave with a rock bridge over the top of it, and continuing around you will reach the chambers and pillars here. A good hike of about 5.3km that takes in both these sites is all the way around the headland to Cala Xarraca – take plenty of water! Park as for Cala Es Canaret, but head N to ,  follow rocky trail around headland, staying R to go directly to Cova de Llevant at 750m, or follow the path 1.5km N and around headland to pass first cave (39.1083, 1.4929). 15 mins, 39.1069, 1.4924 h9E

portinatx coast 6 CALA DE XARRACA On the face of it, this bay has just another family-friendly beach with lovely water and a nice restaurant, but as so often on Ibiza, just a quick walk and scramble leads to find another, much quieter spot. With rocks to jump and swim off rather than sand, there are some great little islands to snorkel around, a sea cave to swim through and sometimes ropes slung along the rocks for swinging on or climbing up. Head W on PM-811 from Sant Joan ,  de Labritja, then R at roundabout signed Portinatx (EI-300), follow 3.5km L fork signed

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XX 8 to the beach. Park at bottom of hill near the beach; scramble or swim R from the beach to reach far fishing huts and rocks. 2 mins, 39.0998, 1.4987 Tq-9T 7 S’ILLOT DES RENCLI The name means ‘forsaken islet’, and this quiet little beach with fishing huts and sandstone cliffs, flanked by steep forests, is in a quiet spot that was for a long time hidden away and fairly unreachable. The road in is still winding and steep, but it is worth a detour to this lovely spot. There is also a lovely restaurant right on the beach with magnificent views to the islet. Continue past Cala Xarraca (see entry) on ,  E1-300 and look out for a signed sharp L turn about 500m further on. Follow road down to park at bottom or by roadside and walk the rest of the way. 5 mins, 39.1002, 1.5026 vh18 CALA XUCLAR This tiny, sandy cove is a perfect little escape with typical fishing huts nearby to lay out and soak up the sun next to, and rocks to scramble around and explore, surrounded by craggy coastline and pine trees. There is a simple wooden

chiringuito serving up excellent seafood like ceviche and gambas where you can eat with your feet in the sand. Continue past Cala Xarraca (see entry) ,  on E1-300 for 1.5km to find a signed L turn. Follow this road down to car park and short path from far end to beach. 5 mins, 39.1026, 1.5092 hs1-

sant vicent coast 9 CALA D’EN SERRA This beautiful little cove sits below the highly graffitied ruins of a hotel development that never came to pass, surrounded by mountains and forest that make it superbly tranquil. It has a laidback chiringuito and is loved by locals, but if you want a beach to yourself, follow the path behind the ruins down through the pine forest to find a smaller, untouched, rocky beach. Perfect for snorkelling and solitude! From E end of Sant Joan de Labritja head ,  N next to Les Ostros restaurant signed Portinatx for 5.5km to a R turn signed for beach. Follow 1.2km to the beach; this road is in poor condition. Park near abandoned hotel and walk down to the shore, to L for

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12 XX main beach and R (39.1066, 1.5360) for smaller cove. 10 mins, 39.1077, 1.5370 h0-1 10 AIGÜES BLANQUES This beach is loved by locals and is officially a nudist beach, but very mixed so you are welcome to also wear clothes. The golden sand gives way to crystal clear and beautifully blue water, best enjoyed early, when you can watch the sun rising over the Illa de Tagomago in the distance. Some people like to take clay from the surrounding cliffs, mix with water and use it as a mask for the skin and hair, as it is said to have healing properties. There is a restaurant on the beach, and also a charming chiringuito further along. Follow PM-810 from Santa Eulària des Riu ,  NE dir Sant Vicent nearly 9km (do not miss L turn 500m after passing through Sant Carles de Peralta) and take R turn signed Aigües Blanques. Parking on-site, follow path down steep steps to beach. 5 mins, 39.0597, 1.5891 sk 11 PLATJA D’ES FIGUERAL A long, sweeping beach with dramatic hills all around. This is a good place to hire

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XX 13 kayaks or SUPs and snorkels (from kayakibiza.com) and head off on an adventure around the coastline. The Illa de Tagomago is nearby and within the marine reserve that covers this area, so there is a rich underwater world to explore. Follow PM-810 from Santa Eulària des Riu ,  NE dir Cala de Sant Vicent 6km, through Sant Carles de Peralta, and continue straight when PM-810 turns L to Cala de Sant Vicent shortly after, following almost 3km all the way to parking at back of beach. 2 mins, 39.0535, 1.5935 2q-'k

santa eulària coast 12 PLATJA POU D’ES LLEO Quiet little pebble-and-sand cove with fishing huts, calm water and some fun rock formations to swim around. Chiringuito on the beach for simple snacks and drinks. You can hike or drive on along the headland from here to visit Torre de Campanitx (see entry) for terrific views. Follow PM-810 from Santa Eulària des ,  Riu NE dir Cala de Sant Vicent 6km, through Sant Carles de Peralta, and continue straight when PM-810 turns L to Cala de Sant Vicent shortly after. Continue this road 1.3km to

well-signed R turn to this beach and Cala de Boix, follow 2km to L turn signed for Pou d’es Lleo. Follow this road 1km past restaurant to park above shore. 2 mins, 39.0347, 1.6087 q-1 13 CALA DE BOIX This unique dark sand beach is great for wave jumping and bodyboarding with the right wind, but the perfect spot to snorkel when calm. Much loved by locals, who gather in the little chiringuito for long family lunches with a fabulous view, it is sheltered by huge cliffs and rugged headlands. Drive as for Platja Pou d’es Lleo (see ,  entry), but continue past the L turn near end and continue straight for 1km to Cala Boix restaurant (+34 971 335408). Park L and walk steeply downhill to beach. 5 mins, 39.0298, 1.6064 6sq-1 14 CALA MASTELLA A little gem, this beach has a laid-back vibe, a chiringuito under the trees and plenty of shady areas to lay a towel down. The water is amazing for snorkelling, but rocky underfoot so water shoes are a good idea. You can scramble or swim around to the next

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17 cove to discover the wonderful El Bigotes restaurant (see entry). Follow PM-810 from Santa Eulària des ,  Riu NE dir Cala de Sant Vicent for 4km to Sant Carles de Peralta. On entering village take R signed Cala Llenya (on Carrer de la Vénda de Morna), then at roundabout take first exit R signed Cala Mastella. Continue 2.7km, passing turnings on R, then take L signed for beach. After about 1km the beach turning is well signed on R, with parking next to shore. 2 mins, 39.0248, 1.5956 -qE

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15 PLAYA CALA MARTINA This long, sheltered family beach is particularly popular with windsurfers when there is a southerly wind, and there are some great water sports available to hire from here (Divestar Ibiza, +34 971 336726). The charming chiringuito is popular with locals and the famous Punta Arabí hippy market is very close. Head E out of Santa Eulària des Riu ,  on Carrer Cesàr Puget Riquer approx 1.7km, past Eroski supermarket L. At next roundabout take second R signed Cala Martina. Follow 1.3km to R turn onto dirt road signed for Cala Martina restaurant. Pull

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XX 18 over R (limited space) or park at restaurant if eating here. 5 mins, 38.9913, 1.5731 q2sK 16 CALÓ DES GAT A lovely, quiet little bay near the campsite Camping La Playa (see entry), with red clay walls and a small, pebbled beach. A wooden jetty stretches right out over the crystal clear water and gives a great platform to swim from, and you can explore the rocky Punta Arabí headland from here on foot or in the water. Park as for Playa Cala Martina (see entry). ,  Walk 300m E on coastal path past end of beach and Chirincana restaurant around headland to Caló des Gat. 10 mins, 38.9906, 1.5753 -d 17 CALA PADA A lovely, lively family beach with plenty of room to spread out. Jump off the jetty with the local kids, or find a quiet spot next to the quaint row of blue fishing huts. Swing from an old pine tree in the funky homemade pallet swing, or explore the headland. There is also a dive centre on the beach. Head E out of Santa Eulària des Riu on ,  Carrer Cesàr Puget Riquer 1.7km, past Eroski

supermarket L. Just before next roundabout take R after the large hotel, signed for Cala Pada. Follow 650m down to car park. 2 mins, 38.9932, 1.5609 qs-Tk

ancient & sacred 18 AQUEDUCT DE S’ARGAMASSA This unusual structure runs parallel to the side of a hotel for about 425m all the way to the sea, and is quite something to behold. It is all that remains an aqueduct built by Romans in the 1st century to carry fresh water to a fish farm and processing plant at the coast. Made from cut limestone and now encrusted with calcified deposits, it is 2m high at some points. Head E out of Santa Eulària des Riu ,  on Carrer Cesàr Puget Riquer approx. 1.7km, past Eroski supermarket L. At next roundabout take second R signed Cala Martina. Follow 850m and turn R Avinguda de Cala Martina. Aqueduct starts R after 950m; park on street and follow to coast. Alternatively, if parked at Cala Martina (see entry), follow the beach R to little pathway along shoreline to coastal end of aqueduct, set just back from headland. 5 mins, 38.9945, 1.5691 7qA

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XX 22 19 COVA DES CULLERAM An ancient Phoenician shrine to the goddess Talit was discovered here in 1907, with hundreds of terracotta figurines, some gilded; it is considered one of the island’s most sacred places. Access to the cave interior is uncertain, it may be open in the middle of the day in high season. You can always leave an offering and peer inside, and the wonderful steep hike up through a forest to the cave also brings you to the most amazing views across to the Illa de Tagomago. You can drive closer, and the

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hike needs decent walking shoes, but we prefer it! Take PM-811 E from Sant Vicent de Cala ,  dir Cala de Sant Vicent at the coast. For a shorter walk, take L within 1km at small red sign for Santuari Púnic des Culleram. Follow through hairpins 1.4km to car park R; there is parking further up access road (about 700m to cave), but you may have to turn back. For longer, steep hike, continue past turning 650m to large layby on L (39.0796, 1.5787) park here and follow little wooden sign for trail. 40 mins, 39.0826, 1.5805 vhz8Q4

20 TORRE DE CAMPANITX Also called the Torre d’en Valls, this typical Ibizan defence against pirate attack was built in 1763 and badly damaged by an explosion in the 19th century, due to either a lightning strike or local resentment of the soldiers. Today it is restored, and a peaceful spot to start or end a day or even do some stargazing. The inside is closed off, but there are cracking views across to the Illa de Tagomago and on a clear day Mallorca on the horizon. Follow PM-810 from Santa Eulària des ,  Riu NE dir Cala de Sant Vicent 6km, through Sant Carles de Peralta, and continue straight when PM-810 turns L to Cala de Sant Vicent shortly after. Continue on this road 1.3km to well-signed R turn for Pou d’es Lleo and Cala de Boix, follow 2km to L turn signed for Pou d’es Lleo (see entry). Follow road 1km, past restaurant to park above shore and hike the last 1km. You can brave the bumpy road in a car, but we don’t recommend it. 20 mins, 39.0346, 1.6189 6Q

natural wonders 21 COVA DES SANTS This amazing cave is pretty tricky to access, but awe-inspiring once you are

XX 25 inside. The flowstone formations look like giant jellyfish with tentacles hanging down above you – giving it its other name, Cueva de las Medusas – and light pours in from an overhead opening. You need to climb inside using ropes, so you will need common sense and your own safety observations, or a local guide. On PM-811 heading E at Sant Vicent ,  de Cala take L at Bacheo Camí del Port de ses Caletes sign (39.0800, 1.5632). Follow almost 3km, winding uphill, then downhill about 800m to small parking area L after a hairpin (39.0922, 1.5637). Less confident drivers may prefer parking R under trees further back near summit (39.0906, 1.5617). Walk on to house on last bend and take path around it down to shore, scramble R over boulders until you see cave entrance with rope in cliff ahead close to sea. 30 mins, 39.0955, 1.5666 hQEAvw9 22 PALLER DES CAMP The viewpoint down onto this impressive rock structure and across the stunning headland is covered in little red painted love hearts. It is also possible to climb into the structure and the cave below it if you reach it from Platja d’es Figueral (see

entry), sometimes there are ropes left by others to help you clamber up, but it can be dangerous so go carefully. Follow PM-810 from Santa Eulària des ,  Riu NE dir Cala de Sant Vicent 6km, through Sant Carles de Peralta, and continue straight when PM-810 turns L to Cala de Sant Vicent shortly after, following almost 3km all the way to parking at back of beach. Take small path from beach behind hotel up to road to viewpoint (39.0560, 1.5914) from the west side of beach, 400m. Or walk W along the shore to reach the rocks. 10 mins, 39.0562, 1.5919 EUW9

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23 ES AMUNTS NATURAL PARK This natural park spans 15,000 hectares, around a quarter of the island, and is home to many endangered plant and animal species. You can look for flamingos, falcons, goldfinches, owls and dormice within the park, or simply wander among the stone pine, sabina tree, wild rosemary and juniper bushes. The free interpretation centre is the best place to start planning routes and trails. Carretera San Lorenzo, s/n, 07812 Illes ,  Balears, +34 971 325141 1 min, 39.0302, 1.4778 zhD4q

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eat 24 ANTARCTICA HELADERIA Absolutely delicious homemade ice cream is served here, off the main promenade of Santa Eulària. Such a good spot to cool down in the shade and people watch. Paseo Maritimo, Local 7, 07849 Santa ,  Eulària des Riu, +34 971 318609 38.9838, 1.5351

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25 AUBERGINE BY ATZARÓ A unique vegetarian, farm-to-table organic restaurant in a beautiful rural finca. Stroll through the truly magnificent vegetable garden that provides their home-grown ingredients, and dine on the shady terrace under the olive trees or bougainvillea-hung pergola. Carrer de Sant Miquel, km 9, 9, 07815 Sant ,  Miquel de Balansat, +34 971 090055 39.0406, 1.4332 s

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chiringuitos 26 CHIRINCANA Beach bar with live music and entertainment, famous for its homemade pizza and plenty of plant-based options. Festooned with twinkly fairy lights and a great family atmosphere right on the beach. Avinguda Punta Arabí, s/n, Playa Cala ,  Martina, 07849 Es Canar, +34 971 935403 38.9910, 1.5747 s

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27 CALA XUCLAR CHIRINGUITO Well-hidden in a tiny cove, down a steep road, this cash-only chiringuito has a fabulous reputation for fresh fish and cocktails. The beach itself is lovely and quiet with clear water for swimming, but rocky so bring beach shoes. Ctra. Portinatx, km 26, 5, 07810 Portinatx, ,  +34 971 337666 39.1027, 1.5092 s XX 29

28 EL BIGOTES A simple set-up right on the shore with only one fish dish on the menu: bullit de peix con arroz a banda, a saffron-infused fish and rice stew cooked in the huge woodfired oven inside the restaurant. This place is an Ibizan institution, and you must book ahead: legend has it King Juan Carlos I was turned away as he had no reservation. Camino Cala Boix a Cala Mastella, 138T, ,  07850 Sant Eulària des Riu, +34 650 797633 39.0246, 1.5966 s

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29 AIYANNA Aiyanna is a hip, award-winning beachside restaurant serving up modern Mediterranean food using ingredients from their own organic garden. Beautifully decorated with colourful parasols and comfortable sofas, it even has a food truck selling fresh juices and snacks. Situated on Cala Nova. Avinguda Cala Nova, 07850 Cala Nova, Sant ,  Carles de Peralta, +34 971 330456 39.0099, 1.5822 s 30 BAR ANITA Although it has been open in the small village of Sant Carles since the late 1800s, Bar Anita is now better known as the original hangout for the hippies who set up home on the island. It acted as a sort of post office, collecting their mail and offering them a place to gather. Entering is like stepping back in time. Simple, traditional tapas is the main fare here, with the traditional homemade Hierbas Ibicencas liqueur being served after meals. opp Eglésia de Sant Carles , 07850 Sant ,  Carles de Peralta, +34 971 335090 39.0346, 1.5655 s

sleep 31 AGROTURISMO CA SA VILDA MARGE A beautiful converted 400-year-old finca with just seven rooms, each with their own terrace. Set in large grounds with vegetable gardens and orchards in a terraced green valley. Venda de Xarraca 10, Carretera de ,  Portinatx, 07810 Sant Joan de Labritja, +34 971 333234 39.0834, 1.4976 gs 32 CAN TALAIAS A deeply rural, family-friendly agroturismo, Can Talais is known for its wonderful gardens (which grow produce for the kitchen) and a nursery specialising in plants for dry landscapes. Peacocks roam the extensive grounds and the views from the terrace across the hills to the sea are breathtaking. Easier to find with their own signs than a satnav, a hidden little oasis! Apartado 244, 07850 Sant Carles de ,  Peralta, +34 971 335742 39.0368, 1.5803 gsh 33 FINCA CAN MARTI An organic farm as well as a hotel, Can Marti has sustainability and great food at its heart. The 400-year-old farmhouse has been

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sympathetically restored to offer elegant rustic suites and guesthouses, and the lovely grounds feature a natural fresh-water swimming pool. Venda de Ca’s Ripolls 29, 07810 Sant Joan ,  de Labritja, +34 971 333500 39.0716, 1.5158 gs 34 AGROTURISMO CAN GALL This family-run hotel is a foodie heaven, with orange juice straight from the orchards and home-grown or locally produced food on the menus. In the same family since the 1800s, the house sits amid citrus, almond and olive trees, surrounded by mountains. Carretera San Juan, km 17.2, 07812 Sant ,  Llorenç de Balafia, +34 971 337031 39.0505, 1.4968 gs 35 CAN PARDAL BOUTIQUE HOTEL With whitewashed walls covered in pink bouganvillea, this beautiful hotel has just five rooms in a sensitively restored

16th-century building. It sits in the heart of the historic village of Sant Miquel and has panoramic views across the mountains. 8 Carrer de Missa 3, 07815 Sant Miquel de ,  Balansat, +34 971 334575 39.0569, 1.4385 g

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36 CAMPING LA PLAYA Quirky forest campsite with a range of accommodation to rent, from tipis, yurts and vintage caravans to small timber bungalows (you can pitch your own tent too). Situated right on Caló des Gat beach near the oldest hippy market on the island. Avinguda Punta Arabi, s/n, Playa Cala ,  Martina, 07849 Es Canar, +34 971 338525 38.9911, 1.5754 d

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MALLORCA Mallorca is an island of contrasts: the narrow streets of the capital Palma teem with colour and commerce, but there are huge areas of protected wilderness with hundreds of bird species and tame lizards. A whole world is contained in this island, from craggy mountains to lush rolling fields, soft pink almond blossom to bright turquoise seas, from hidden rocky coves to endless sandy beaches, and densely forested hillsides to flat, salty marshes. Soft sunrises are followed by intense sunsets, soft breezes by exhilarating wild winds. The sun shines brightly day after day, then the heavens open and streams and waterfalls burst from forest floors as if by magic. Echoes of the past are everywhere, in Neolithic burial grounds and Roman ruins, while Moorish terraced fields and hanging gardens still flourish a thousand years on. Sanctuaries top almost every hill, and defensive watchtowers sit dizzyingly high all around the coastline, reminding people how for centuries Mallorca protected its essence inland, leaving the hardy few to keep guard and warn of marauders. Today it’s still in the rural towns and villages that you’ll find the true spirit of Mallorcans, speaking their language with pride and continuing age-old traditions in food and wine production. Feasts and fires, music and art, demon-chasing and theatrical processions mark seasonal and religious festivals, all of them steeped in the island’s rich history. Day to day, the calm evening paseo brings people of all generations outside

to walk and talk, foraging for slim spears of asparagus on the verges or plucking stems of fennel to chew. Speak even a few words of Mallorquin in these small communities and you will always be rewarded with a warm welcome. Fish and seafood are staples here, especially by the coast, where local fishermen sell a rainbow of shiny fresh sardines, octopus, cuttlefish, lobsters, prawns and much more. All are delicious cooked on the grill with garlic and herbs or in a rustic terracotya greixonera with local spices, saffron and rice. Up in the mountains you can feast on tender lamb cooked in a wood oven, spicy homemade sausages known as sobrasadas cooked on an open fire, bubbling pots of traditional stew with pigs’ trotters, tender rabbit and thick stock. If you ask for the menu of the day, menu del dia, you get a three-course meal with as much wine as you can drink for extremely reasonable prices throughout the island. The best food is served where locals eat, so look out for busy bars full of workmen and lively families. From medieval philosopher Ramon Llul to a 19thcentury conservationist archduke, from Chopin to Miró, Churchill to Hollywood stars, visitors have always fallen in love with Mallorca. It truly is a paradise for lovers of wild, hidden places and breath-taking adventures, for seekers of isolated coves and silky seas filled with life, for quiet immersion in nature and lively participation in a rich and fascinating culture. 93

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mallorca west Our perfect weekend , Hop on a boat from Sant Elm and look for wildlife on the tiny island of Sa Dragonera , Savour thick hot chocolate with traditional potato cakes from Pastelería Ca´n Molinas ,Snorkel   in the turquoise waters of a little harbour below ancient terraced fields at Cala Banyalbufar , Wonder at the mysterious carvings at Cova de Portals Vells and jump off the rocks into the bay , Dive into crystal clear water at Platja de Cala Conills, near the sleepy fishing village of Sant Elm , Hike over hills and through forests in the footsteps of an early conservationist on the Camí de S’Arxiduc , Slather yourself with healing minerals in the mud at Es Canyaret beach near Deià , Bathe in dense holm oak forest on the old path between Esporles and Valldemossa ,Walk   on water over to the tiny island of Restaurant Illeta to dine on fresh prawns and sip local wine. , Climb a cliffside stone stairway and gaze at a stunning sunset from Mirador de Ricardo Roca

The west of Mallorca is often overlooked by those in search of wild places, being home to the capital city of Palma and several commercially developed resorts to the west of it, like the infamous Magaluf. But venture beyond Magaluf and almost immediately you’ll feel the vibe changing, as you discover sparkling little coves like Cala Cap Falcó and Cala Bella Dona. The whole south-west coast is strung with gorgeous gems just waiting to be found. Inland the sunny climate also provides near-perfect conditions for the growing of almonds, carob, figs and citrus fruits, most famously the orange groves of the north-west hills.

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The foothills of the Serra de Tramuntana begin in the far west, rising majestically the further north you go. You can hike the entire length of this impressive mountain range on a stony trail, the Ruta de la Pedra en Sec (see North Mallorca) beginning on the west coast at Port d’Andraxt and ending way over on the other side of the island in Pollença. There are a number of other well-signed hikes that lead you to dizzying views and hidden coves, through dense forests and along dry riverbeds, past unexpected ancient ruins, old charcoal works and historic sites. El Camí del Correu is a 15th-century stone pathway through oak woods, while the circular Camí de S’Arxiduc leads you along the backbone of the Tramuntana mountains before dropping back into the flower-filled village of Valdemossa.

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At the island’s most westerly point you can catch a boat from the sleepy fishing village of Sant Elm to the protected island of Sa Dragonera, so-called because it looks like a sleeping dragon protecting the coast. This uninhabited island is one of several impressive nature reserves in Mallorca and home to the largest colony of Eleanora’s falcons in the Balearics. Lilford’s wall lizards, a symbol of the islands, are prolific there, and quite approachable. Protecting the coastline from raiders, and sailors from the coastal rocks, there are a good number of historic watchtowers and lighthouses, all of which are great hiking destinations with stunning sunset views.

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Travelling on north up the coast the terrain becomes more dramatic, dominated by the striking conical peak of Puig de Galatzó – mighty in appearance, but very hikeable. Narrow roads zigzag precariously down steep hillsides, ending in hidden coves and fishing docks nestled under sheer red cliffs. High above them timeless mountain villages perch on impossibly steep hills, surrounded by ancient irrigation systems built by the Moors that still enable people to cultivate crops and maintain communities here today. 96

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calvia 1 CALA CAP FALCÓ Just south of the busy, built-up resort of Magaluf, this is where the atmosphere changes and the crowds start to dissipate. Although popular, it’s a great place to spend a chilled-out beach day in a relaxed atmosphere. There’s a long and dramatic staircase down to the sand, nice little chiringuito at the top of the beach (see entry), and just round the headland is another magical, secluded bay, Cala Bella Dona (see entry). From Ma-1 just W of Magaluf, at junction ,  14 take exit signed for Magaluf onto Camí Cala Figuera. Cross first roundabout, take L at next roundabout onto Camí Porrassa, signed Magaluf. Next roundabout turn R onto Carrer de Quevedo, signed Cala Cap Falcó. After 1km road bends R around Naveta d’Alemany, the remains of an ancient tomb; no actual parking but you might be able to pull over for a short look (39.4965, 2.5263), do not miss signed L turn opp tomb. Bear left downhill at fork, then at slightly tricky junction at bottom turn L and immediately R to continue in broadly same direction. From here follow signs around curves for about

950m to park along R side on Carrer Cap Falcó and descend the stairs to the shore (39.4878, 2.5338) or turn R shortly just before on signed dirt road for parking and path to back of beach. 5 mins, 39.4879, 2.5328 S1 2 CALA BELLA DONA There are no signs to clarify the official name of this small, secluded bay – locals also call it Caló de sa Nostra Dama or sa Dona Morta – but Bella Dona (beautiful lady) works well for this gorgeous cove of crystal blue water and bright white sand. The discreet entrance is located in the residential neighbourhood of Sol de Mallorca, with steep steps down through the trees. Starts as for Cala Cap Falcó (see entry) ,  but do not take L opp Naveta d’Alemany tomb remains. Instead continue on road about 1.8km to a crossroads and turn L here onto Avinguda Balear. Follow 700m and pull onto the small gravelled area L at the junction of Carrer Emblat and Avinguda Joan Miró – you may need to do this over the zebra crossing (39.4832, 2.5288). Trail from here leads down to the beach. 5 mins, 39.4840, 2.5306 -1q

3 CALA XADA This is an impressive but challenging rocky bay, and this stretch of it is variously referred to as Ca Corda or Cala Corda. A perfect place to stretch out in the sun on smooth flat rocks, find some shade in the cliff overhangs or cool off in the choppy sea – although swimming here with much swell would be risky. Reached down a stone staircase and winding path from a quiet residential street. Starts as for Cala Cap Falcó (see entry) ,  but do not take L opp Naveta d’Alemany tomb remains. Instead continue on road just over 2km (past turning to Cala Bella Dona, see entry). Turn L at old tennis court (Club Balear written on wall) onto Avinguda Portals Vells. Park after 350m and walk down staircase L (39.4773, 2.5248). 5 mins, 39.4774, 2.5257 14 PLATJA DEL REI Boasting such a regal name you might expect something grander, but the ‘king’s beach’ is actually a perfect little sandy and rocky bay with sparkling turquoise water and trees all along its banks providing shade. There is a little beach bar and it can get busy in high season,

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7 XX so best to visit early in the day or during quieter periods. From Ma-1 just W of Magaluf, at junction 14 ,  take exit signed for Magaluf onto Camí Cala Figuera. Follow for just over 5km then take L fork at the large painted sign for different beaches. Follow 1km to car park R or park along road here. Walk on to where road bends and take path L 160m to beach. Can also be reached by parking on Avinguda Portals Vells at the edge of Sol de Mallorca and taking a path from the road down to the harbour (39.4758, 2.5220); on the far side of the harbour from this is a sea swimming pool. 2 mins, 39.4763, 2.5208 q1-

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5 PLATJA DEL MAGO This is a really gorgeous little bay, best enjoyed early in the morning as it can be busy all year round. It’s at the bottom of a steep hill so be warned if you cycle down, it’s a hard slog back up! There are two rocky flanks to the beach, the more nudist side is to the right; this was one of Mallorca’s first nudist beaches. The sand is soft, the views are great, the water is shallow but with a rock shelf on the side which is a great diving and snorkelling platform into a deeper area, and there’s also a beach bar.

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Park as for Platja del Rei (see entry) but ,  continue around the bend R at bottom of road to back of this cove. If you are early and lucky you may be able to park down here; car parking at the top is free but limited. 2 mins, 39.4751, 2.5202 q16 CALA PORTALS VELLS With its rocky headlands this bay is a great place for cliff-jumping, and there’s also a sandy beach here called Platgeta de Portals Vells. Up on the hill to the left is a great viewpoint and across on the other side of the bay is a cave with historic carvings that’s quite easy to get to, Cova de Portals Vells (see entry); the ‘old portals’ of the openings give the bay its name. There’s a small restaurant and a few parking spaces right by the beach. Drive as for Platja del Rei (see entry) but ,  stay R at fork with large painted sign for beaches and continue 1.5km, past gate R signed Portals Vells, round hairpin L down to parking area at back of beach. 2 mins, 39.4722, 2.5203 9-1q 7 CALA DEL TORO Not to be confused with the Playa del Toro in the town, this is a wild and rocky place with

XX 7 a beautiful shallow shelf left by quarrying. Part of the El Toro marine nature reserve, it is great for snorkelling and diving, with many different species thriving in its protected waters, including octopus and starfish. You can also walk out along the horn-shaped peninsula of Punta del Toro (see entry). A perfect place to watch stunning sunsets. From the harbour in Santa Ponsa follow the ,  coastal road to a roundabout with a red ‘A’ at the edge of the suburb of El Toro (39.4922, 2.4812). Turn S here onto Carrer Gran Via and follow 1.7km, over a roundabout and through crossroads, to T junction onto Avinguda de la Mar at coast. Turn L and park before corner. Follow very steep and slightly hidden steps and trail R behind railings down to sea. 15 mins, 39.4766, 2.4817 q-1o6

andratx onwards 8 CALÓ D'EN MONJO This virgin beach surrounded by dense woodland feels pretty remote and special. Just around the headland on the right are caves to explore, and to the left is another tiny scoop out of the rocks with a boathouse and slip. A sheltered little cove with a narrow entrance, this place is a dream for

snorkelling and diving, with loads of marine life and a sea cave to discover. With plenty of shade from the trees along the beach, it is popular with nudists. On Ma-1 just S of Andraxt, leave onto ,  Ma1-a signed Camp de Mar and follow 1.6km to roundabout on outskirts of Peguera. Take R exit signed Cala Fornells (Carrer 866) and follow to T junction at end. Turn R down dead end road and follow along shore and back inland to park at end (limited space). Walk about 350m on along trail and turn L down to shore. 15 mins, 39.5292, 2.4308 01Ah 9 CALÓ DE SES LISSES This tiny beach has shallow, clear waters, a little cave and islets to explore with a snorkel, and is a wonderful spot for children. It lies just around the bay from the larger beach of Cala Fornells, which offers great swimming off the rocks. Drive as for Caló d'en Monjo but at T ,  junction turn L to park under trees (39.5334, 2.4378) then walk down dead end road about 60m to path L down to beach. For Cala Fornells, walk on another 150m, or swim or scramble around. 2 mins, 39.5326, 2.4381 q-`

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sant elm 10 PLATJA DE CALA CONILLS Idyllic rocky cove just south of the sleepy fishing village of Sant Elm. Explore the rock shelves and pools and launch off into the sparkling water, great for diving. Spectacular sunset views across to the small uninhabited island of La Illa Pantaleu, and beyond to the stunning Sa Dragonera (see entry). Take Ma-1030 from Andratx W through ,  S’A rracó, and approx 3km after roundabout in W of S’A rracó take unsigned L by substantial metal and stone gate and wall on bend, onto Camí de sa Torre. Follow this road to parking at end and walk down to shore. 5 mins, 39.5733, 2.3533 q-1

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11 ES TERRER This virgin rocky cove is almost completely deserted for much of the time, and the waters are crystal clear and teeming with life for snorkellers and divers to enjoy. Situated directly facing the iconic nature reserve island of Sa Dragonera (see entry) which is especially spectacular at sunset; follow the clifftop trail for amazing viewpoints. Cars can be left nearby, but the steep descent is tricky.

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Follow Ma-1030 from Andratx W to coastal ,  village of Sant Elm and through one way system N, to park at the far end of Carrer de na Popia (39.5858, 2.3467) and follow paths through trees carefully down to beach. 10 mins, 39.5868, 2.3455 6vh

trumuntana 12 CALA ESTELLENCS This small rock and stone cove is a beautiful surprise, nestled between red clay cliffs under its namesake town, with gorgeous sunsets in front and the looming peak of Puig de Galatzó (see entry) behind. A bathing area about 80m long has been made of stones and boulders from the surrounding cliff, and the Son Fortuny stream that flows into the cove sometimes produces a little waterfall that can be used as a freshwater shower. Originally a haven for local fishermen, almost half the cove is occupied by a row of little stone huts for boats, and the little seasonal bar right on the seafront is very picturesque. Be careful when swimming, it can be exposed in a westerly wind. Follow Ma-10 N from Andratx up coast ,  about 17km to village of Estallencs, and turn sharp L downhill just before Hotel Maristel on

XX 13 R. The 1.5km drive down to beach is possible but very steep and single track with space for only a few cars at the bottom; better to take sharp hairpin R after 140m into village car park (39.6523, 2.4788) and walk down. Stay for sunset and walk back up when it is cooler. 5 mins, 39.6584, 2.4713 SH113 CALA BANYALBUFAR This is such a quirky place and quite tricky to find! Steep, winding stone steps lead down the cliffside to enormous concrete columns and a waterfall on one side of the quaint little harbour, where a broad concrete shelf popular with locals leads to traditional fishing huts and boats pulled up on rails. Beyond these, the wildness of the rugged rocky shore of the bay to the north is quite a contrast. Access to the water is pretty steep here, great for snorkelling. Get there early for free parking at the bottom of the steep hill, or take coins to park in the village and walk to the beach. Banyalbufar is worth visiting for its ancient terraces (see entry), and a lovely hike from Esporles on the Camí des Correu (see entry). Banyalbufar lies on Ma-10 running along ,  the coast. Car park is off Camí de sa Canaleta (39.6886, 2.5145); walk back uphill, turn R

and then R again on Camí des Moli with yellow beach sign (there is limited parking here too). Follow 450m down to sea, turning R on path to steps by last building where road bends L to small car park on headland. 15 mins, 39.6916, 2.5172 -z1 14 PLATJA PORT D’ES CANONGE A pretty, quiet little harbour mostly visited by locals, with fishing huts strung out all along its length. You can swim or take a paddleboard out, or stroll along to the western end of the bay and scramble over some rocks to see boats pulled up in a picturesque semi-circle on handmade wooden ramps. There is a nice little restaurant, Restaurante Can Madó (closed Tuesdays, +34 971 610552), in the village above, which is reached on alarming hairpin roads. On Ma-10 heading E from Banyabulfar dir ,  Valdemossa, after about 6km take fork L just before hairpin R, signed Port d’es Canonge. Follow almost 5km into the village, straight on to seafront, and turn L onto Avinguda del Mar to parking spaces at end. Viewpoint and short path down to harbour R. 2 mins, 39.6999, 2.5545 hA-1

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XX 19 15 PLATJA DE SON BUNYOLA A dreamy, hidden cove just a short walk through the pine trees from Port d’es Canonge (see entry). Nearly always very quiet, this delightful north-facing shingle and pebble beach is quite rocky. There are several tiny coves beside it that are fun to explore. Park as for Platja Port d’es Canonge, but follow ,  trail W from parking 350m to find this beach. 10 mins, 39.6995, 2.5510 hA-1 16 PORT DE VALDEMOSSA This charming little shingle beach lies beside the quiet harbour of a tiny fishing village reached by driving half an hour on a steep, winding road. There is a wooden walkway for jumping into the translucent blue-green waters and swimming under the craggy red rock cliffs that slide steeply into the bay. Take a moment to gaze up at those looming cliffs standing guard over the small, isolated community and remember that you have to drive all the way back up there! Take MA-1130 (becoming Ma-10) out of ,  Valdemossa W and about 800m beyond end of town turn R signed Port de Valdemossa (on Ma-1131). Then follow this hairpin road all the way to the harbour below, turning R to car park on headland at end, where there is also a café.

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The hairpins will take longer than a satnav or mapping app suggests. 2 mins, 39.7183, 2.5874 AH-1 17 CALA DEIÀ A near-perfect pebble and boulder beach, Cala Deià is truly stunning, but best visited in the winter or super early in the morning to really appreciate its rugged backdrop, charming buildings and clear, intense waters. In spite of its tricky approach and fairly remote location, the beauty of this rocky cove has made it a well-known destination, so it is always packed in high season despite paid parking. There are two very picturesque beach bars, Ca’s Patró March (see entry) and Ca’n Lluc, and a dramatic coastal walk starts from here. Follow Ma-10 from Valldemossa N, twisting ,  to and through village of Deià. About 600m beyond Deià, take sharp L turn with a yellow sign for Can Lluc and Ca’s Patró March restaurants. Follow single track and very steep road carefully 1.5km to start of metered parking along road at the bottom. Follow rest of road (about 500m) and then steep track down to shore. 10 mins, 39.7603, 2.6410 £zK1-

XX 20 18 CALA TOMÀS Leave the crowds behind and find this lovely, quiet little gem of a rocky cove. Its deep blue waters contrast gorgeously with the lush green landscape and red rocks surrounding it, and the views are spectacular. On the cliffside the Camí dels Pintors trail, which leads north from Cala Deià (see entry) to Lluc Alcari, there are multiple spots to clamber down the steep rocks to swim, with some providing ladders or steps for easy access. Park as for Cala Deià but take signed trail ,  to NE before you reach the beach, and hike around 700m through trees, following the coastline. Keep an eye out for the steep steps down, they are fairly hidden. 20 mins, 39.7622, 2.6455 h-10 19 ES CANYARET If you are walking north along the coast from Cala Deià (see entry) you really must stop off for a mud bath at this little bay hidden away amongst the trees. Created by a natural spring you can find halfway down the beach, this mud is great for your skin. You will come across this gem of a place on the trail just before you arrive at the tranquil, unspoilt beach of Llucalcari; sometimes that name is used to apply to this whole area.

Park as for Cala Deià, but take signed Camí ,  dels Pintors trail to NE before you reach the beach, and hike around 1.5km through trees, past Cala Tomàs (see entry) following the coastline. Keep an eye out for the steps, which are well concealed, and take them very carefully as they are damaged. 40 mins, 39.7668, 2.6532 z-0ah

ancient wonders 20 COVA DE PORTALS VELLS The history of these caves is full of mystery. They are generally said to have been cut by Moorish slaves, quarrying rock for the cathedral in Palma; others claim a Phoenician origin, giving an ancient sunken ship nearby as evidence. Local history says that the carvings were made by seafarers in the 15th century who placed a statue of the Virgin Mary in an alcove there after surviving a storm, and the cave is also known as Cova de la Mare de Deu. There is no statue today, but you can still see a chiselled sun, moon, solar wheels and a head, and some enthusiasts say these signify a Templar history. Looks down over Cala de Portals Vells (see entry), with great swimming and snorkelling off the rocks.

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XX 21 From Ma-1 just W of Magaluf, at junction 14 ,  take exit signed for Magaluf onto Camí Cala Figuera. Follow for just over 6.5km, staying R at fork with large painted sign for beaches and continuing past gate R signed Portals Vells, round hairpin L down to parking area at back of beach. Follow coastline path around 250m E to find the cave. 10 mins, 39.4718, 2.5223 Q89 21 PARQUE ARQUEOLOGICO PUIG DE SA MORISCA This park is delightful to explore, with trails meandering around the hill through forests to emerge next to a variety of ancient ruins. An important talaiotic village stood here from the late Bronze Age through the Iron Age, and appears to have been a key trading site; one of the largest finds of imported ceramics was discovered here. The site was re-occupied in the Moorish era, and may have been the first place to fall to the Christians. More recent charcoal burners’ huts are also scattered on the slopes. The park is also noted for its variety of flora and fauna, and you can climb to the top of the hill for fabulous views over Santa Ponça below and all across the island. Signed off Avinguda De Santa Ponça ring ,  road around Santa Ponsa, one roundabout

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W of golf course (39.5098, 2.4829). Parking is immediately off the ring road, directly opposite park entrance. 2 mins, 39.5092, 2.4827 qzQ86 22 TERRACES OF BANYABULFAR Banyabulfar means ‘founded by the sea’, and this village clings to a steep coastal slope at the edge of the Serra de Tramuntana. It is known for its ancient, irrigated terraces, around 2,000 in all, which descend to the sea in a triumph of Moorish engineering. Now mostly given over to tomatoes, all kinds of crops were grown on them in the past, but above all grapes: the Malvasia grape was used to make a sweet malmsey wine here. Nearby you can visit a treasure of a rocky cove, Cala Banyabulfar, and hike the mountain trail of El Camí del Correu (see entries), while the oldest of Mallorca’s remaining 16th-century coastal watchtowers, Torre de Verger, perches high on a rock just along the coast road. There is little sign of tourism in this authentic mountain village, just a couple of simple hotels, cafés and an art gallery. Along the Ma-10 N from Andratx. Park in ,  car park (needs coins 39.6886, 2.5145) and wander; terraces are best seen from above.

XX 24 Torre de Verger is 1km south, with parking in layby shortly beyond (39.6836, 2.5000). 1 min, 39.6872, 2.5138 sYh

vast viewpoints 23 PUIG DE GALATZÓ, GALILEA The almost perfectly conical peak of Puig de Galatzó is a nature reserve and popular hiking challenge, at just over 1,000m. Routes up for the ambitious are reached from Puigpunyent to the east or Estellenc to the north, but if you are happy to admire it from lower down, you could start in the isolated and unspoilt terraced mountain village of Galilea, a peaceful oasis at the end of the dramatic switchbacks on the tiny road from Andratx. A destination in itself, there are fabulous views from Café Sa Plaça De Galilea (+34 971 147206) near the church, and you can hike about 1.5km to La Reserva Puig de Galatzó rather than drive the long and bumpy road in. The nearest accommodation is in Puigpunyent. Ma-1032 from Es Capadella N passes ,  through Galilea village after 6km. Eastern ascent of the mountain starts from Font des Pí (39.6300, 2.4942), northern starts from the Ma-10 (39.6460, 2.4621). 30 mins, 39.6155, 2.4947 hzs

24 PUNTA DEL TORO This amazing horn-shaped promontory is a dramatically beautiful place, especially at sunset. A rocky walk from the residential area of El Toro takes you almost to the tip of the landmark, which gives the area its name. On the very last rocky island outcrop, Islote or Illa de Toro, there’s a lighthouse. Below are the shallow shelves of the Cala del Toro (see entry), good for a dip after. This area is a former military zone, so you have to go through a gate marked as such which says no trespassing to begin the walk. From the harbour in Santa Ponsa follow the ,  coastal road to a roundabout with a red ‘A’ on the edge of the suburb of El Toro (39.4922, 2.4812). Turn S here onto Carrer Gran Via and follow 1.7km, over a roundabout and through crossroads, to T junction onto Avinguda de la Mar at coast. Turn L and park before corner. Follow trail along the top 350m and turn R to the point, about 1.3km from here. 15 mins, 39.4670, 2.4772 z6h 25 FAR DE CALA FIGUERA This particularly beautiful lighthouse with its dramatic diagonal stripes stands almost at the south-western tip of the vast Bay of Palma. There are the vestiges of some

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XX 29 military infrastructure on the path in, and the ruins of the Torre de Cala Figuera watchtower just to the west for company. Worth a visit in itself, if only to gaze across the bay at the spectacular views of Palma, but there is also some excellent coasteering along this stretch, and if you like a long hike the Camí de Cala Figuera winds its way from Magaluf to here, past the lovely rocky cove of Platja de Cala Figuera. From Ma-1 just W of Magaluf, at junction 14 ,  take exit signed for Magaluf onto Camí Cala Figuera. Follow for just over 6.5km, staying R at fork with large painted sign for beaches. If there is space, park at gate R signed Portals Vells (one or two cars only, 39.4724, 2.5106) and walk along car-free road 3km, past trail down to Cala Figuera cove (39.4627, 2.5192). Otherwise continue 800m down to parking area at back of Cala Portals Vells (see entry) and walk back up to here. 45 mins, 39.4587, 2.5221 z67

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26 MIRADOR DE RICARDO ROCA Climb a broad stone staircase up the cliff beside a tunnel to the simple little stone shelter at this stunning observation point. There is a stone table inside where you can lay out a map or a picnic – but nearby

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XX 28 the fabulous restaurant Es Grau perches precariously by a steep drop down to the rippling blue sea far below, a triumph of engineering with excellent food and stunning views (+34 971 183769). On Ma-10 about 12km from Andraxt ,  heading E towards Estellencs, pass the Es Grau restaurant L and park R in large designated layby. Staircase is across the road. 2 mins, 39.6457, 2.4517 6s 27 MIRADOR DE CAP ANDRITXOL The full panoramic view from the far end of the narrow Es Cocó de Sa Sal promontory is truly awesome, especially at sunset. Nearby is a terrifying cliff edge called Montano Pacharán, which you can peer over to watch colonies of seabirds nesting on the sheer rock wall. The walk in is bracing, and some parts are quite steep, but there are great views all the way and a scattering of lovely flowers to look out for. On your way you will pass one of Mallorca’s many 16th-century coastal watchtowers, Torre de Cap Andritxol, but there is no access inside it. On Ma-1 just S of Andraxt, leave onto ,  Ma1-a signed Camp de Mar, and follow 1.6km to roundabout on outskirts of Peguera. Take R exit signed Cala Fornells (Carrer 866) and

follow to T junction at end. Turn R down deadend road and follow along shore and back inland to park at end (limited space, 39.5310, 2.4358). Follow the trail straight about 700m; don’t turn L to Caló d’en Monjo (see entry), but join trail S 300m further on and follow to viewpoint, 2km in total. Alternatively, a rocky climb of 1.5km will take you there in about 25 minutes along the Camí Salinar from the beach at Camp de Mar. 40 mins, 39.5245, 2.4222 67

historical hikes 28 TORRE CALA EN BASSET You can climb up to the top of this precariously placed 16th-century watchtower on a rope ladder, the traditional method used by the men who kept guard there, but even the views from the bottom are just stunning. Unusually, this tower was used again in the Spanish Civil War, so there are other structures here. It’s an enjoyable hike of about an hour from Sant Elm, and although some parts are quite challenging the views all the way are wonderful, and spectacular at certain points. You can combine this hike with another one nearby, La Trapa (see entry), or visit Cala en Basset below for a dip.

Follow Ma-1030 from Andratx W to coastal ,  village of Sant Elm and through one-way system N, to park at the far end of Carrer de na Popia (39.5858, 2.3467). Continue up this road, turn L at the crossroads near an abandoned building, then take the R towards the tower. The route can be quite hard to find at times; there are a few waymarkers, but they are not very obvious. 60 mins, 39.5959, 2.3508 67 29 LA TRAPA The scenery along the way to this ruined Trappist monastery is fabulous, the route dotted with ancient ruins, and the view to the peaks of Sa Dragonera Natural Park (see entry) on arrival is incomparable. Abandoned in the mid-20th century, it lies both within a nature reserve – Balearic shearwaters, peregrine falcons and ospreys are to be seen – and on one of the most scenic routes in Mallorca, taking you high into the southern Serra de Tramuntana. All this is best enjoyed out of high season, as summer temperatures can make it pretty exhausting. Go there and back on a circular hike from Sant Elm, perhaps taking in Torre Cala en Basset (see entry). Follow Ma-1030 from Andratx W to coastal ,  village of Sant Elm and through one way

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system N, to Avinguda de la Trapa, follow this out of village and look for space to pull off L. If spaces are full, go back and park as for Torre Cala en Basset and walk back. Follow this track all the way; when it splits, take L signed track. The other entry point, with car park, is on the Ma-1030 W of S’A rranco (39.5803, 2.3774). 3–4 hours, 39.5997, 2.3607 436Qz

nature & hikes 30 SA DRAGONERA NATURAL PARK The small, uninhabited island of Dragonera is shaped like a sleeping dragon and has a colourful history of smugglers and pirates, two watchtowers and a lighthouse at each end. Together with up the tiny islets of Es Pantaleu and Sa Mitjana, it makes up a protected area that is perfect for hiking and wildlife watching. There are many plant species here, 18 of them endemic to the Balearics, and an abundance of quite tame wall lizards, the iconic symbol of Mallorca. It is also home to the largest colony of Eleonora’s falcons in the islands. Pack drinks and food, and take rubbish away with you as there are no facilities here. Take a boat from the pier in the centre of ,  Sant Elm or from the harbour in Andraxt (look for signs). In Sant Elm you can also hire kayaks and explore the whole area. Best to prebook either option. 4–8 hours, 39.5851, 2.3197 401`

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31 CAMÍ DE S’ARXIDUC This iconic bridlepath offers an easily walked route along a mountainous backbone, with amazing views over the north-western coastline. The Austrian Archduke Ludwig Salvator fell in love with Mallorca and became a nature writer and passionate conservationist here before there really was such a concept. This is one of several paths mapped out on his estate in the late 19th century, and offers an introduction to traditional mountain industries, with round charcoal ovens, lime kilns, and casas de neu where snow and ice were stored in pits for summer sale. Pick up a local map for the 13km circular route, which starts and ends at the beautifully preserved old village of Valldemossa, where there is a tourist office. This is a fairweather hike: if low cloud or fog comes in, the views are gone. In Valldemossa turn off Ma-1110 into one ,  of the two car parks in the centre (39.7119, 2.6220 or with tourist office 39.7108, 2.6212). Head N through village, away from

XX 32 main road, to end up at edge on Carrer de les Oliveres; trail continues from end of this, to L of large gate. 4–5 hours, 39.7287, 2.6261 36z 32 ESPORLES–VALLDEMOSSA HIKE Most of this hike is perfect for forest bathing, as you lose yourself in the atmosphere of a dense oak forest. From the little town of Esporles, couched in a hollow in the hills, the old rural path winds north-east to the mountain village of Valldemossa, where you can refuel at Pastelería Ca´n Molinas (see entry). Even at its highest point, the summit of Sa Communa, the trees dominate and obscure the views. Incorporating very old sections of stone pathway, the whole 9.5km route has been restored to become part of the Ruta de Pedra en Sec (see entries, North Mallorca), although it still lacks GR221 signs. There are ancient charcoal platforms along the way, and a short detour takes you to interesting stone ruins with a barrelvaulted roof at Avenc de Porxo. Mushrooms are gathered here in November. Heading N on Ma-1100 in Esporles ,  centre turn R on Carrer de Canonge Joan Ganau to car park (39.6682, 2.5793). Walk

back out of car park, turn R up Carrer de Francesc de Borja Moll. Turn R at end and walk up to triangle with fountain, bear R onto Carrer de Mateu Font. Continue along this road 750m, crossing R over river at dead-end sign and L again uphill out of village, until it bends sharp L. Go straight ahead here on start of trail. Red signs show the way. 4–5 hours, 39.6728, 2.5859 3z 33 CAMÍ DES CORREU A beautiful walk through the woods between Esporles in the mountains and Banyalbufar at the coast. It dates from 1401, and the quaint dry-stone walls and paths are well maintained. At the highest point it passes through a dense oak grove, the branches framing stunning glimpses of the north coast, and the shade from the trees makes this hike a good choice for a hot day. When you arrive there is the beautiful Cala Banyalbufar (see entry) for cooling down. The hike is just over 8km, but bus route 202 connects the villages; check the timetables in advance for the return leg. In Esporles park as for Esporles– ,  Valldemossa Hike (see entry). Walk back

down and turn R main road, Carrer de Joan Ruitort, then after 120m L onto Plaça d’Espanya. Turn R at end onto Costa de Sant Pere, and follow past church and uphill where it becomes the trail. 2–3 hours, 39.6689, 2.5755 3z

eat 34 CAFÈ BELLAVISTA, BANYALBUFAR This place offers friendly service, homemade cakes, delicious burrata and fresh tapas, and the sangria is fabulous. If you can still ask for more, the view from the lovely terrace is breathtaking, especially at sunset. Carrer Comte de Sallent 15, 07191 ,  Banyalbufar, +34 971 618004 39.6877, 2.5147 35 THE HIDDEN KITCHEN, ANDRATX The food at this gem is fresh and beautifully presented and tastes amazing, the staff are attentive and there is a great selection of wines. Off the beaten track in Andratx. Carrer Castanyetes 2, 07157 Port ,  d'Andratx, +34 971 884701 39.5382, 2.3780 s

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Diseminado Sa Foradada 2, 07179 Deià, ,  +34 616 087499 39.7556, 2.6223 s 39 RESTAURANT ILLETA, CAMP DE MAR This priceless little seasonal restaurant on an islet in the bay has crisp white tablecloths and local menu with delicious paella and a fresh seafood platter to die for. You can even jump into the sea between courses at sunset, which is just magical. Some people arrive by boat, but most come across a wooden walkway from the beach. Best to book ahead. An excellent place to relax after a hike to the stunning views from Mirador de Cap Andritxol nearby (see entry). Playa de Camp de Mar, s/n, 07160 Camp de ,  Mar, +34 971 235884 39.5369, 2.4223 s

41 XX 36 RESTAURANTE CALA CONILLS, SANT ELM Come here for amazing seafood – the freshest spiny lobster and the best cigalas on the island. The views are beautiful and the service excellent. Carrer Cala es Conills 1, 07159 Sant Elm, ,  +34 971 239186 39.5777, 2.3545 s 37 CA’S PATRÓ MARCH, DEIÀ This iconic seasonal restaurant in a gorgeous cove serves delicious food and the wine list is awesome. Sitting here with perfectly cooked fish in front of you and a glass in your hand you feel like you might just be in one of the best places in the world. Having achieved screen fame as ‘the Night Manager restaurant’, unsurprisingly it’s very popular, so book in advance. Carrer Sa Cala, 16, 07179 Deià, ,  +34 971 639137 39.7602, 2.6409 s

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38 SA FORADADA, DEIÀ Famed for its traditional paellas cooked over a smoky wood-fired grill, this is one of Mallorca’s most memorable dining experiences. The ambience of this fabulous seasonal outdoor kitchen comes from its unique setting almost at the tip of the Sa Foradada peninsula. Views from here are exceptional – look out for the iconic 18m natural hole in the rock right at the very end. Fabulous place for diving. Open for lunches only.

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40 PASTELERÍA CA´N MOLINAS This place is rightly popular, with long queues of eager customers for the famous coca de patate, a light and delicious sweet bun made with potato flour and traditionally served with hot chocolate. Cake in hand, explore the flower-filled little cobbled streets of the picturesque village, and visit the former Carthusian charterhouse: there is a museum to Chopin in the rooms where he spent a winter with George Sands, and magnificent performances in the cloisters on the Festival of St Bartomeu every 24th August. Via Blanquerna 15, 07170 Valldemossa, ,  +34 971 612156 39.7098, 2.6216 s 41 CALA CAP FALCÓ Friendly staff and delicious dishes – the skewers of beef are excellent. This tiny chiringuito serves drinks, fresh fish and local food with a relaxed atmosphere on a lovely little beach of the same name (see entry). Carrer Cap Falcó, 07181 Calvià, ,  +34 631 425540 39.4879, 2.5328 s

sleep 42 FINCA CA N'AÍ, SÓLLER This gorgeous estate has belonged to the same family since 1723. Converted in the 1990s into a fabulous rural hotel, it’s full of Mallorcan character and style, and everything about it reflects the owner’s passion for nature. In the beautiful valley of Sóller, below the majestic Serra de Tramuntana, the hotel has its own tram stop on the historic Tranvía de Sóller tram line to the port and a direct link to the Ruta de

Pedra en Sec (see entries, North Mallorca).

the host using fresh ingredients grown on the farm, or you can use their professional kitchen to cook yourself. Carretera Andraxt–Estellence, km 103.9, ,  07150 Estellencs, ses-fontanelles.es 39.6177, 2.4226 gs

location, the hosts, the rooms and the breakfast in the garden. It is a fine base for exploring the Serre Tramuntana range, on foot or by bike. The rooms are arranged in three separate locations around the extensive grounds with great views of the surrounding mountains and a pool to cool down. Carretera Palma Puigpunyent, km 12,3, ,  07194 Puigpunyent, +34 636 959398 39.6221, 2.5453 g

Camí de Son Sales 50, 07100 Sóller, ,  +34 971 632494 39.7780, 2.6970 g 43 AGROTURISMO S’OLIVAR, ESTELLENCS Nestled into the terraces of a slope above the sea, this is a rural idyll but just a 5-minute walk from the nearest bus stop. Cosy, comfortable and well-equipped self-catering houses and cottages with a seasonal infinity pool share the finca with an environmental foundation, surrounded by woodland and spectacular views. Carretera C-710, km 93.5, 07192 Estellencs, ,  +49 9142 804857 39.6536, 2.4871 g

45 FINCA SES FONTANELLES, ANDRATX This rustic guesthouse is in a lovely remote location between mountain ridges – so forget using your mobile – and has a beautiful authentic style. There’s plenty of room to relax: three sitting rooms with fireplaces and two terraces with stunning views. There is also a bunk room for longdistance hikers. Dinner can be cooked by

44 FINCA HOTEL SON PONT, PUIGPUNYENT This lovely quiet oasis is a real gem – the

46 PUNT BLANC RESIDENCE, SANT ELM Self-catering by the sea in the small fishing village of Sant Elm, with beach access and incredible views of Sa Dragonera. A family-run business since it began as a guesthouse and restaurant in the 1960s, this small, welcoming complex comprises five apartments and a house, all named after members of the family. 1 33 Carrer de sa Punta Blanca 12, 07159 Sant 25 ,  2 36 Elm, puntblanc.es 39.5847, 2.3478 g

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mallorca south Our perfect weekend , Sip a strong coffee at Sa Cova in Plaça Major, Santanyí and watch the world go by , Fly a kite on the seemingly endless pristine white sandy beach of Platja d’Es Trenc , Wander round the ancient talaiotic village of Capocorb Vell and lose yourself in the past , Jump off the rocks into the cool turquoise water with local kids at Cala Sa Nau , Soak up the sunset over the salt works at Parc Natural Es Trenc and look for pink flamingos , Explore the underwater world in the sea cave at the remote Caló des Màrmols , Stroll over the Arc Natural de la Cova des Pont, or just gaze out at the mighty arch of Es Pontàs, where only three people have ever reached the top , Marvel at the extraordinary stalagmites in the legendary cave system Cova des Coloms , Plunge into Cocó de Ses Ninfes after a hike through a moonscape of abandoned quarries , Dance all night long to live music in the forest bar S’Embat near Platja d’Es Trenc

The southern coastline, where the sun shines the brightest, is known for its relaxed atmosphere and long stretches of clear turquoise waters. There are glorious protected areas like Parc Natural de Mondragó, where you can find remote unspoiled coves, and you might be lucky enough to see flamingos on the dazzling salt flats of Salines de Llevant. From Porto Cristo right around the headland of Cap de Ses Salines almost to the capital Palma, white sandy beaches and hidden rocky coves are strung together by long coastal paths, like pearls on a necklace.

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This glorious stretch of coastline also offers plenty of exciting caves to explore, and headland lookout points with stunning views. You can watch the sun rise in the east by the stripy tower of Far de Portocolom, then swoon at the sunset on the west-facing observation deck at Mirador de Maioris – or just spend all day at Far Cap de Ses Salines and follow the sun right round. Between these points lie ancient watchtowers and spectacular sea arches like Es Pontàs to visit. Visible on the horizon are the protected islands of the Cabrera Archipelago, inhabited only by park rangers. You can get a permit to go ashore and explore this remote, unspoilt and glorious nature reserve, and the boat ride provides a chance to spot dolphins and whales too.

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Inland market towns like Campos, Llucmajor, Santanyí and Felanitx are spread across this largely rural area, and dozens of small villages scattered amongst them with rustic cafés, local markets and quiet, authentic charm to discover. Much of the land is cultivated, growing crops such as beans, coffee, rice, sugar cane and cacao, and Campos is at the centre of not only the region but also the agricultural economy. Dotted amongst these living communities, echoes of the past such as the prehistoric talaiotic site at Capocorb Vell draw the explorer deep into the past.

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beaches 1 CALA MURTA, PORTO CRISTO Not to be confused with the beach of the same name on the Formentor peninsula (see North Mallorca), this little gem is just south of Porto Cristo. A long V-shaped bay narrows to a secluded, rocky cove where a tiny boulder beach is tucked way back in the point. Surrounded by scrubland and unspoilt nature, dramatic waves crash on the rocks in stormy weather. There is a Spanish Civil War redoubt set into the rock on the north side of the beach, with a deep entrance and a slit to aim through. On the south side you can follow the path out to Punta de Cala Murta, a lovely viewpoint that’s perfect for watching the sunrise. On Ma-4020 heading E into to Porto ,  Cristo, at last roundabout before edge of Porto Cristo turn R signed Portocolom, then at next roundabout turn L dir Porto Cristo on Ma-4014. At next large roundabout on edge of town, take first R signed coves del Drac and then next right into large car park under trees. A little path from S end of car park leads through undergrowth and gap in stone wall to cove. 5 mins, 39.5327, 3.3320 0SH

2 CALA FALCÓ This very quiet, rocky cove is set into the cliffs of Manacor and bordered to the south-east by the Punta d’En Barrufau peninsula; its level of sand varies from year to year. On the north side is a karst cave, Cova de Cala Falcó, with easy access directly from the beach, and a large seawater pool inside with stalactites hanging low above; far from the sun, the water is shockingly cold, and this should only be visited with waterproof head torches, good footwear and companions. There are several other caves nearby, including the Cova des Coloms (see entry) which only be reached by sea. Follow Ma-4014 from Porto Cristo SW ,  dir Portocolom 4km, then turn L signed Romantica onto Avinguda Geranis. Follow to parking at end. From the S side of the beach climb up the hill to find the coastal trail and follow the coast for around 2km, then look for a path L down to Cala Falcó cove. 60 mins, 39.5038, 3.3002 0hz9 3 CALÓ BLANC This small, uncrowded rock and sand cove is tucked into a sheltered inlet that forms a beautiful base for deep water soloing

with lots of shadow. Snorkelling and cliff jumping are truly awesome here, and there are two amazing caves scooped out of the rock face that you can swim inside. It is in the protected area of Cales Verges de Manacor, so it can only be reached on foot: on the way you pass Cala Falcó, which has amazing caves and a beautiful sea arch, Arc Natural de la Cova des Pont (see entries). Park and walk down to Cala Falcó cove, and ,  follow path R around headland past sea arch to next cove. 90 mins, 39.5008, 3.2985 0hz9 4 CALA VARQUES A secluded paradise with magical sunrises, reached on foot through in the protected area of Cales Verges de Manacor. The gorgeous, white sandy beach gives way to pine forest as it stretches inland, and the bay is framed by two rocky headlands covered with low Mediterranean scrub, pines and holm oaks. Two large secret caves are partially hidden by scrub on the east side of the shore, which carries on to another smaller beach, and a huge sea cave lies just offshore, a popular spot for jumping and snorkelling.

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5 XX Park and walk as for Cala Falcó, and follow ,  the coastal trail S past Caló Blanc (see entries) another 350m. 75 mins, 39.4999, 3.2960 0hz9 5 CALA BOTA This little bay lies well hidden in a conservation forest area and is one of the most tranquil beaches in Mallorca, surrounded by untouched nature. The beach is around 30m long and consists entirely of white pebbles, and white cliffs rise all around it interspersed with the orange of the local soil and the green of the pine trees. An old smugglers cave is fun to explore. From here you can walk north to three more isolated coves: Cala Virgili, Cala Pilota, and Cala Magraner (see entries). From Porto Cristo follow Ma-4014 dir ,  Portocolom 9km, then turn L signed Cales de Mallorca/Platja. Follow just over 2km, to small parking area L (39.4774, 3.2726). Winding trail from here bends L after 1km with two paths off R; take rightmost down to cove. Stick to paths, they are crossing private land. 20 mins, 39.4756, 3.2861 0h-A

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6 CALA VIRGILI The small sand-and-gravel beach of Cala Virgili is very remote and quiet, surrounded by unspoiled nature as far as the eye can see. There is a deserted fishing hut at one side of the bay, and a cave on the other. Park and walk as for Cala Bota (see ,  entry) but continue along the trail around the bend past the turn off for Cala Bota for 600m, past another turn of R and bend L, to path sharp R leading further 600m to shore. 35 mins, 39.4826, 3.2864 0h-A 7 CALA PILOTA This tucked-away little paradise is a white cobble cove cut deep into limestone cliffs. Its name comes from the ‘pilotes de mar’, or ‘sea balls’ of posidonia that collect here; they are what keeps the water so wonderfully clear. Park and walk as for Cala Bota (see entry) ,  but continue from on winding trail a further 1.3km from that corner, past another three paths R, and take fourth, following 500m to shore. 45 mins, 39.4840, 3.2863 0h-A

XX 10 8 CALA MAGRANER The widest of the three long narrow bays cut into the cliff of this remote stretch of coast. It’s a tranquil place in the shelter of looming white cliffs that have eroded into gorgeous caves and hollows. The beach consists of white pebbles with a small wetland area behind and turquoise waters in front that are ideal for swimming and snorkelling among a variety of fish. Park and walk as for Cala Bota (see entry) but ,  continue from on winding trail a further 2km from that corner, past another four paths R and two L, taking L fork down to cove after 1.6km. 60 mins, 39.4864, 3.2872 0h-A 9 CALA BRAFI A virgin cove with a small, irregularly shaped sandy area that extends quite far inland. Flanked by low cliffs covered in pine trees and juniper bushes, there is nothing in this tranquil bay save a small disused boathouse and fishermen’s refuge. There are a few rocks under the water to watch out for when swimming and snorkelling, and the shallow water dissuades boats. The coastal path to here from Cala Sa Nau via Cala Estreta (see entries) is part of the Cami Sa Ronda trail. Popular with nudists.

In the village of Can Marcal, park in Carrer ,  Del Virot (39.4073, 3.2586). Walk W along road out of town and past some farmhouses, around 400m. On corner are two entrance gates and to R a small path; follow path 250m to shore. 30 mins, 39.4036, 3.2541 0A1-z 10 CALA ESTRETA Estreta means narrow, and this remote and rocky cove is barely a couple of metres wide at its narrowest point. It looks almost like the branch of a river as you approach it down a rocky ramp after quite a long walk in. It is like being in a brilliant turquoise swimming pool with an otherworldly feel to it, and divers and snorkellers will find a fine variety of fish. (Do not confuse this with the equally lovely Cala Estreta on the Llevant coast, see East Mallorca.) Continue along the coast about 750m from ,  the SW side of Cala Brafi (see entry), either on the forest trail being careful not to get lost, or the scrambly coastal cliffside walk. 45–60 mins, 39.3992, 3.2518 0-AEz 11 CALA SA NAU Brilliant turquoise water and soft sand at the end of a zig-zag inlet mean this

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XX 16 lovely beach is popular with locals, who know how to find it down a long, narrow, winding road. You can swim out to the cave on the north side, or jump off the rocky coastal path into clear, still depths, and a little cave with a great view sits up on the clifftops to the right if you want to explore (39.3918, 3.2483). There is a bar right on the beach serving delicious snacks and drinks. From E side of Felanitx take Ma-4010 ,  SE to coast heading R at first roundabout, then again at second onto Ma-4012 signed S’Horta. After 4km as you enter the village take second L onto Carrer De Cala Marcal, signed to Cala Sa Nau and follow 1.5km, then bear L at brown sign for Cala Sa Nau. Paid car park at end of road, but you can also carefully park along the road before this. Walk down the steep steps through forest to shore. 10 mins, 39.3932, 3.2472 6kq9

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mondragó park beaches 12 PLAYA DE S’AMARADOR One of two beautiful wide beaches within the Parc Natural de Mondragó (see entry). Surrounded by pine trees, it has stunning

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views, fine, white sand and clear, shallow water. Although it is quite secluded, there is a small beach bar and it can become crowded at weekends and in high season. You can follow a 500m mountain path to the neighbouring beach, Cala Mondragó, which is great for cliff-jumping, and Caló des Borgit (see entry) beyond or seek out a real hidden gem the same distance in the other direction, a tiny but gorgeous rocky cove called Caló d’en Perdiu (39.3474, 3.1893). Take Carrer de Mondragó E out of the ,  village of Santanyí and from R fork after 1.7km follow brown signs for Parc Natural de Mondragó around twisting lanes, and then finally Platja signs to large paid Ca Sa Muda car park on L (€5, 39.3454, 3.1867). Follow road beyond wooden barrier at end 500m down to beach. 10 mins, 39.3496, 3.1855 s6-1 13 CALÓ DES BORGIT Sheltered in a deep, rocky inlet, this tiny, sandy cove is situated in the Parc Natural de Mondragó (see entry) just around the headland from Cala Mondragó, which is great for cliff jumping. Surrounded by pine trees and low cliffs, with no facilities,

it is unspoilt, more secluded and cleaner than the resort beach, and definitely worth the short forest walk along the rugged coastal path. From Playa de S’A marador (see entry) walk ,  along the coastal path past Cala Mondragó and through forest on trail, approx 2km from car park. 30 mins, 39.3527, 3.1930 zA1-

es llombards region 14 CALA LLOMBARDS This rocky cove surrounded by high cliffs and pine trees is great for diving, jumping off cliffs or snorkelling. The beach is not wide, but stretches a long way back, with fine, white sand that shelves gently below completely clear water. Near the town of Es Llombards, it has a shower, with sun loungers and sunshades available in high season, so does get full then. At those times, a short walk east towards Cala Santanyí and the rock arch Es Pontàs (see entry) takes you to a charming and usually deserted little rocky cove with a rug of posidonia, called Caló des Macs. Best enjoyed in low season. From Santanyí ring road take Ma-6100 ,  SW to roundabout and head L signed Cala Llombards. Follow 3.3km to go straight over roundabout, then turn L onto Carrer del Pi, continue on then take second L signed Platja and follow signs L at fork L after 750m and on to parking at back of beach. For Caló des Macs walk up steps from L of beach to road, follow R and just around bend L, look for tiny path down R between two houses (39.3253, 3.1402) which can be slippery. 5 mins, 39.3236, 3.1381 qT-k 15 CALÓ DES MORO Situated deep inside a beautiful bay with sheer limestone cliffs, the little beach here is fine-grained, bright sand, and the shallow shelf means the whole bay has stunning, clear turquoise water. Access is via a walk along quiet roads and down steep cliffside steps and there are no facilities, but this bay is still very popular in summer, sometimes with queues: go early or late or enjoy it as a paradise out of season. A walk on south around the headland leads to S’Almonia (see entry) From Santanyí ring road take Ma-6100 ,  SW to roundabout and head L signed Cala Llombards. Follow 3.3km to roundabout with large car park L and park in here. Opposite over zebra crossing is a no entry

XX 15 road signed for S’Almonia and Caló del Moro. Follow this road to T junction, turn L, then immediately R, then L at end, and R around bend again and after 240m take little footpath L to beach; approx 1km walk from car park. 20 mins, 39.3136, 3.1214 -1hk 16 S’ALMONIA This gorgeous and tiny rock cove is surrounded by pine trees, a short walk from Caló des Moro (see entry). The turquoise water is clear and inviting for swimming and snorkelling and the rocks are often used as jump-off points, but make sure to check the water depth first. There is also a fabulous cave hole to clamber to and jump through. If you walk around the twin headlands of Es Castellet de Llevant and Es Castellet de Ponent you pass other jumping points and a large sea cave that you can swim right inside. Park and walk to Caló des Moro and ,  continue around headland, or continue on road past Caló des Moro footpath to next corner and signed set of extremely steep steps down to the cove. 25 mins, 39.3126, 3.1196 -0A

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cap de ses salines 17 CALÓ DES MÀRMOLS Deep in the ‘marble bay’ this is a rugged, remote beach backed by dramatic, high cliffs, and accessible only on foot by a tough hike in on a scrambly coastal path that extends on up the rugged east coast from the Far Cap de Ses Salines (see entry). There are steps cut into the cliff leading down to this hidden gem, which is never over-crowded. The crystal-clear water shimmers in blues and turquoise over the sandy beach and there is a really great cave to swim into. From Ma-6100 halfway between Es ,  Llombards and Ses Salines take turning S signed Far Cap de Ses Salines, follow 5.7km, all the way to lighthouse at end. Park carefully on roadside here and walk to and around lighthouse onto coastal trail E and hike 4.5km following fence on your L to stay on meandering trail. There is no shade on this long hike. 75 mins, 39.2886, 3.0896 A10Hv

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18 PLATJA CAP DE SES SALINES Quiet rock shore halfway between Far Cap de Ses Salines and Platja des Caragol (see

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entries). Almost on the southernmost tip of Mallorca, this is the closest place to the African continent on the island where you can swim. All around the landscape is flat, with junipers and brush forming most of the vegetation. The coast is low here, and the only building you can see for miles is the lighthouse. Park at the lighthouse as for Caló des ,  Màrmols (see entry), but follow coastal trail W about 800m. 15 mins, 39.2708, 3.0460 Ahz0 19 PLATJA DES CARAGOL Protected by a natural rock pier, these long, pale sands are the most southerly sandy beach on Mallorca, with a gradual slope that gives the crystal clear water the most fantastic shades of blue and turquoise. Entirely natural and untended, with sand dunes and wild, sparse vegetation behind it, it is very remote and quiet, with no facilities. Park at the lighthouse as for Caló des ,  Màrmols (see entry), but follow coastal trail W about 2km, passing Platja Cap de Ses Salines (see entry). 30 mins, 39.2785, 3.0433 Azh01

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colònia de sant Jordi 20 PLATJA DES DOLÇ Facing Colònia Sant Jordi and its Platja d’es Port across the curving sweep of the bay, Platja des Dolç is a much quieter, more secluded option, backed by wild trees rather than urban palms. Interrupted by some rocks halfway along, both parts of this wide beach have fine, almost white sand, and the shallow water is crystal clear, making it great for swimming and snorkelling. There are some parasols and pedal boats for hire and a good little chiringuito for snacks, but it is not overly commercialised. A coastal walk takes you from here south along a string of gorgeous beaches all the way to the southernmost tip of the island. There are several car parks in the town of ,  Colònia Sant Jordi, including one right on the harbour with its entrance on Carrer Llotja. From here walk N and E on beach and coast trail 600m around bay. 10 mins, 39.3158, 3.0052 q2s 21 PLATJA DE CAN CURT Sweet little remote bay just around the headland and out of sight from Colònia de

Sant Jordi, with two small islets close to the shore. Traditional fishing huts provide excellent shade in this hideaway, which has a unique charm. Good bay for divers and snorkellers, with plenty of fish and clear water. Park and walk to Platja des Dolç (see entry), ,  and continue along shore about 500m to fishing huts on headland. 20 mins, 39.3122, 3.0060 h-1A0 22 ES DOFÍ This wide, sweeping and pristine bay is particularly quiet and secluded and is therefore often used as a nudist beach. Mostly white sand with some rocky areas and beautiful clear water, backed by protected sand dunes and wooded areas. It’s pretty remote from any facilities so bring your own supplies and shade. Park and walk to Platja des Dolç (see entry) ,  and continue along shore about 900m to the next bay, past Platja de Can Curt (see entry) on headland. 30 mins, 39.3121, 3.0097 0Az23 PLATJA DES CARBÓ A long stretch of gorgeous, wild sands covered with posidonia and driftwood

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small chiringuitos and sunbed concessions are scattered along its length. There are two large paid car parks, and it can be busy, especially at entry points each end in high season – best to walk halfway along for more space. You can also walk the other side of Ses Covetes village to find its quieter beach. From E edge of village of Sa Rapita head N ,  on Ma-6030 for 2.6km and turn R signed for Es Trenc on Ma-6014. Follow this road 2.4km around bends to large car park. Walk 1.5km S down this road into the village of Ses Covetes and turn L to beach, or R for Ses Covetes beach. There is another car park further on, behind S’Embat restaurant (see entry); also a few tight spaces to park right in the village, but they are nearly always full early. Second entry point and car park at S end is a shorter walk to shore; take signed turn off Ma-6040 between Campos and Colònia de Sant Jordi (39.3485, 3.0131), and follow road 2.4km to car park at end. 20 mins, 39.3423 2.9865 £kqs25 PLAYA DE ROCAS This stone shoreline lies right in front of the small town of Sa Ràpita and it has a fabulous diving board off the rocks for the local sea swimmers. There are plenty of fish, and it is a great area for snorkelling. A little further round the coastline lies the original fishing harbour, and in high season you can take a ferry from there to the national park on the island of Cabrera (see entry). There are lots of fabulous restaurants along this stretch, not on the tourist trail but very popular with locals. Park in Sa Rapita, there is plenty of parking ,  on side streets and a car park at E end, above harbour, about 1.5km from diving board. 2 mins, 39.3639 2.9389 T6A

XX 24 and edged by forests. You can keep going along the coastline to the next beach, Platja de Ses Roquetes and even further to the enchanting tree-lined cove of Cala en Tugores (39.2893, 3.0308). The whole area is very flat and wild and remote, with nobody else and no shade for miles, so be sure to be well supplied with all that you might need. Park and walk to Platja des Dolç (see entry), ,  and continue along shore about 1.4km, past Platja de Can Curt on headland and smaller Es Dofí (see entries). 35 mins, 39.3068, 3.0160 ha01

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es trenc onwards 24 PLATJA D’ES TRENC This long beach of pearl-white fine sand is one of the most beautiful in Mallorca, where the sea can look anywhere from deep blue or pale turquoise to emerald green depending on the time of day and natural light. Great for swimming, snorkelling and sunsets. The flat dunes of Park Natural Es Trenc-Salobrar de Campos (see entry) serve as a breeding ground for birds such as the ringed plover and stilt-walker, and there is a complete ban on beach-side developments; instead several

26 PLAYA DE CALA PI A flight of 147 cliff-hugging stone steps takes you down from a stunning view to a gorgeous, narrow, sheltered beach with fishing huts at the outlet of the Torrent de Cala Pi. Ideal for easy snorkelling in the turquoise water, with lots of fish and sometimes hermit crabs. Take a picnic, you will have to go back up the steps for cafés. A short walk away is the 17th-century watchtower Torre de Cala Pi. Take Ma-6015 from Llucmajor S almost ,  11km, then take R signed Cala Pi onto Ma6104. Continue along this road 8km then turn L onto roundabout signed Cala Pi and follow this 3.5km to village, keeping R at fork at end, to parking next to the beach steps. Walk or drive on, bearing R to reach headland and

XX 26 tower (39.3615, 2.8352), with parking spaces on road. 10 mins, 39.3639 2.8362 AH0-1

cocó de ses ninfes 27 PLAYA MAIORIS A strangely beautiful stretch of curiously shaped pools left from quarrying stone for the cathedral in Palma, with incredible views and sunsets. One of the pools, Puig de Ros, is cut almost like a swimming pool. Crystal-clear turquoise water, you can see fish without goggles when snorkelling. There are lovely big slabs of rock for sunbathing and also for shade, but best to wear bathing shoes, they can be quite sharp. Gets busier later in the day as it is the closest beach to the resort, and sometimes there is a sunset drumming ceremony. The Cocó de Ses Ninfes coastal trail (see entry) to the north begins here. Take Ma-6014 almost 4km S from S’A renal ,  to R turn signed Puigderros (also with stone sign saying Puig de Ros). At T junction at end turn R towards Mhares Sea Club, then take first L and follow this hairpin road down past Mhares to car park at end (also paid parking in Mhares). Quarried area begins at bottom of

steps, but walk approx 300m N along shore to this spot. 15 mins, 39.4530, 2.7410 A0EH-1 28 CALA DELTA The largest of several perfect rocky coves on the old quarry coastal path Coco de ses Ninfes (see entry), this is an ideal destination if you don’t want to hike all the way to the end of this challenging trail. The water is very clear with great visibility, excellent for snorkelling. Great slabs of warm, smooth, golden-pink rock are lovely to stretch out on and catch some sun and there are gorgeous tidal pools to bask in. Just follow the coastline around for some great dipping spots. Park and walk as for Playa Maioris (see ,  entry) but continue along the coast north for around 200m on the coastal path. 30 mins, 39.4546, 2.7396 A0EH-1 29 CALA VELLÓ Also known as Cala Vella, this most beautiful and perfectly curved cove has red rocks and clear turquoise water. Quite a scramble to get down the rocky coastline to the sea, but well worth it as it’s a great place for swimming and snorkelling with plenty of fish to see.

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viewpoints & monuments 31 TALAIÓT CAPOCORB VELL This outstanding talaiotic village near Lluc Major is one of the largest and most impressive Neolithic sites in Mallorca, yet it is fairly unknown and quiet. There are five talaiots, two square and three circular, around several older single-room dwellings; the village originally stretched further to the north-east, and the remains of 28 homes have been found in a century of excavations. The first work was done by the great archaeologist of talaoitic culture, Josep Colominas Roca; there is a monolith erected to him in the heart of the site. Small entry fee at the charming little bar at the entrance of this middle of nowhere location. Follow Ma-6015 S from Llucmajor almost ,  10km and take R signed S’A renal onto Ma-6014. After about 7.5km site and bar are signed R. Parking by entrance. Open 10a.m.–5p.m., closed on Thursdays. 2 mins, 39.3975 2.8242 z£8q

XX 30 Park and walk as for Playa Maioris (see entry) ,  but continue along the coast north for around 600m past Cala Delta on the coastal path. 55 mins, 39.4583, 2.7366 A0EH-1 30 COCÓ DE SES NINFES It’s a long hike to reach this very remote ‘cove of the nymphs’ (sometimes also spelled Cocó de ses Nimfes) but there is an amazing plunge pool linked to the sea underwater which you can jump down into to cool off when you arrive. Great for cliff jumping too. You walk in through a dusty moonscape of abandoned quarry workings, or across scrub, proper footwear is essential. Park as for Playa Maioris and then walk for ,  about 2 miles N along coast path. Can also be walked from Cala Blava village, similar distance but inland and an easier trail. Park near 39.4794, 2.7382 and look for gap in wall S opp houses by speed limit sign. Follow path along wall R to corner, go through gap and continue with wall on L to next corner, go through gap and turn R on path. Follow this, meandering near walls on your R all the way to the sea. Turn R and complete final 350m or so to cove along shore. 120 mins, 39.4706 2.7263 A0EH-1

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32 FAR CAP DE SES SALINES This lighthouse on the southernmost point of Mallorca was built in 1863 and is still operating, so not accessible. There is a rocky beach, with panoramic views across to the island of Cabrera, which is a national park (see entry) and rewarding birdwatching. It’s also the place with the least light pollution on the island, ideal for stargazing. From here you can follow coastal trails in both directions, visiting a string of gorgeous secluded sandy beaches and hidden coves. To the west a 6-mile hike through the arid flatlands of the west coast takes you to Colònia de Sant Jordi; to the east is a more rugged cliffside hike towards Cala Llombards. From Ma-6100 halfway between Es ,  Llombards and Ses Salines take turning S signed Far Cap de Ses Salines, follow 5.7km, all the way to the lighthouse at the end. Park carefully on the roadside here. 2 mins, 39.2652, 3.0534 67h 33 TORRE DE S’ESTALELLA This well-restored 16th-century tower kept watch for enemies at sea and communicated with neighbouring towers guarding the southern coasts, the Torre Son Duri (39.3625, 2.9533) and Torre de Cala Pi (39.3615, 2.8352). Nice quiet walk there along the seafront from S’Estanyol and round the headland, where there is a lighthouse. There’s no access to the tower, but superb views, and the cliff below is undercut into caverns, with fun pools and great swimming off the rocks.

Park in Sa Rapita at far W end of seafront ,  by the harbour where the road turns into a dirt track (39.3597, 2.9170). Follow dirt track and coastline to tower. 40 mins, 39.3588 2.9021 6-AH9 34 EQUILIBRIO SUD This totem-like monument looks ancient, but is part of an extraordinary international project by sculptor Rolf Schaffner, portraying a balance between the planet and its people. This and other columns in Norway, Germany, Russia and Ireland form a vast cross if ‘Meridians of Peace’ are drawn linking them. This southernmost point is situated near the coast on the path that leads to Es Pontàs (see entry) just south of Santanyí. From Santanyí follow signs S for Cala ,  Santanyí on Ma-6102 and R at roundabout by cemetery after 1.6km. Continue just over 1km then take R where Platja is signed straight on at edge of village, and follow this 900m, past beach below on L, to park where it bends R at end (39.3278, 3.14531, there is electric car charging here). Walk down road signed dead end and no entry, and follow signs at footpath for Es Pontàs (see entry) and Equilibrio Sud. 10 mins, 39.3264, 3.1442 6 35 ES PONTÀS This massive and magnificent natural arch rises from intense turquoise waters, very close to the rocky shoreline. The colours and light here are breathtaking at sunset. You can get down to the shore, and it’s an amazing experience swimming through this iconic arch, but it is a real scramble, and you need to check you can get back out too. The name means ‘the big bridge’ in Catalan, and it is a famous site for top-notch climbers; the full ascent is perhaps the hardest deepwater solo ever completed. Park and walk to Equilibrio Sud (see entry) ,  then continue along the rocky pathway, and the arch is ahead. 15 mins, 39.3259, 3.1442 TU-We

adventures & caves 36 SA COVA FORADADA A stunningly perfect tunnel through the rock on the headland of Punta de ses Crestes, one of the two promontories that embrace the harbour of Portocolom like arms. This natural formation perfectly frames the view of the Portocolom lighthouse at the far end of the other promontory, Punta des

XX 35 Raconàs. Wear sturdy shoes to go down into the small chamber. From Portocolom harbour follow one-way ,  road S hugging coastline all the way round to headland, then away from sea at fork on headlandand then immediately R with no entry ahead. After 160m road bends L with dead end R; take bend and park. Walk on and follow path by gravelled area with bench R down to shore, tunnel is to L, behind next house. 5 mins, 39.4151, 3.2674 97E 37 COVA DES COLOMS This wild and barely accessible cave is where pioneering paleontologist Dorothea Bate discovered an unknown ancient species, the tiny Myotragus or ‘mouse-goat’ standing only 50cm tall. A karst cave rather than an open sea cave, access is difficult and should be done in a guided group. Participants abseil the cliff face to the sea then swim under water through the submerged entrance. Inside there is more swimming until you reach dry land in a stunning cave full of fantastic stalactites and stalagmites, with some scrambling and climbing. There are other caves nearby that are partially accessible and linked by underground lakes and may be reached with guided groups:

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38 XX Cova de sa Piqueta, Cova des Pont, Cova des Xots and Cova des Pirata. Contact Experience Mallorca, Avenida son ,  Noguera 7 local 2, Llucmajor, + 34 687 358922, experience-mallorca.com (39.4845, 2.8516) 4 hours, 39.5009, 3.3017 9UAEW 38 ARC NATURAL DE LA COVA DES PONT Cut through the headland between the little beaches of Cala Falcó and Caló Blanc (see entries) this enormous sea arch seems to appear out of nowhere on the point of the headland – you simply can’t see it until it is right in front of you. It is possible to walk over this bridge carefully. Follow Ma-4014 from Porto Cristo SW ,  dir Portocolom 4km, then turn L signed Romantica onto AvingudIf Geranis. Follow to parking at end then walk up back of beach to Carrer de les Petunies and turn L to Hotel Cala Romatica. Walk over bridge and turn R to pick up coastal route turning L around swimming pool (39.5170, 3.3060) and continue along the track to a dirt pathway after around 350m along, follow this W for around 2km, then look for a path L down to Cala Falcó, and follow path R around headland to arch. 60 mins, 39.5002, 3.2999 9EW

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39 COCÓ DE SES NINFES TRAIL This unique coastal trail passes through an extraordinary and unearthly landscape of abandoned quarries on a stone path cut into the rocky hillside. You set off from Playa Maioris (see entry) and see nothing but wilderness all the way. Clamber over vast slabs of the pink and honey-coloured marés sandstone, so typical of buildings in Mallorca; stone for the cathedral of Palma de Mallorca was cut here. The path is dotted with pools and little coves such as Cala Delta and Cala Vella (see entries) where you can take delicious dips along the way. The remote destination is Coco de ses Ninfes (see entry), with an amazing deep pool to jump into and cool off in. There is nothing along the trail, not even shade, so take all you need with you; on your return you might catch a sunset drumming ceremony at Playa Maioris. Take Ma-6014 almost 4km S from S’A renal ,  to R turn signed Puigderros (also with stone sign saying Puig de Ros). At T junction at end turn R towards Mhares Sea Club, then take first L and follow this hairpin road down past Mhares to car park at end (also paid parking in Mhares). Quarried area begins at bottom of steps, turn R and follow coast N. 4 hours, 39.4530, 2.7410 A0Hz-.

nature & wilderness 40 PARC NATURAL ES TRENC-SALOBRAR DE CAMPOS Declared a natural park to protect its dynamic ecosystem, this is the secondlargest wetland area in Mallorca after Albufera (see Mallorca Central). It is a wild landscape of perfectly adapted coastal plants, and a paradise for birds that rest and nest here, like flamingos, sea eagles and waders. Behind the sands of Platja d’Es Trenc (see entry) lies a unique dune chain with plants that tolerate the sea winds and salt content of the soil, like salicornia, sea thistle and tamarind. Further east, some 140 artificial salt ponds fed from the sea sit alongside marshlands on the Son Catlar and Son Xorc rivers. The mild climate, gentle sea breeze and low humidity of this peculiar ecosystem naturally evaporate the seawater, leaving salt that is harvested into gleaming mountains, the ‘most ancient spice’. Perfect for sunset photos! The Salinas d’Es Trenc saltworks can also be visited at times on a guided tour (+34 971 655 306, salinasdestrenc.com). Follow Ma-6040 from Campos S nearly ,  9km and turn R signed Es Trenc; this road runs alongside the salt flats. You can drive 2.5km to park in the official Es Trenc car park at the end and wander back up, but there are a few perfectly placed laybys by the flats for a short visit. We found 39.3473, 3.0049 particularly fine for a sunset shot. 1 min, 39.3490, 3.0036 6A4D 41 PARC NATURAL DE MONDRAGÓ The colours of this natural park are incredible, its green vegetation and bright blue waters creating fabulous contrasts. Rare giant and pyramid orchids can be found here, as well as the Algerian hedgehog, pine martens and the Iberian hare. The park is also a refuge for birds, including the stone curlew, the turtle dove, the kestrel and the hoopoe, while the rocky cliff-lined coast is an ideal nesting ground for the peregrine falcon. Hiking trails wind throughout the public parts, and you often come across remains of past use like charcoal mounds, farmworkers and charcoal makers’ shelters, lime kilns, slipways for boats, sandstone quarries, small defence towers and smugglers’ hiding places. There are three beaches within its boundaries: S’Amarador and Caló des Borgit (see entries) and busier Cala Mondragó (39.3522, 3.1884) Follow Carrer Porto Petro/Ma-19 from ,  S’Alqueria Blanca dir Porto Petro for 3.6km

XX 37 to roundabout. Take R signed cala Mondragó, follow signs straight over next roundabout and L at T junction, the park is signed next R. Follow this road 900m to large paid Ses Fonts de n’Alis car park R on junction; information centre next to this. Or park at Ca Sa Muda car park, as for S’Amarador beach. Follow trails from car park. 10 mins, 39.3566, 3.1906 £4DAzq 42 PARC NACIONAL DE L’ARXIPÈLAG DE CABRERA The largest natural park in Spain, covering a vast area of land and sea, is uninhabited except for a rotating few dozen staff on the islands. The coastal landscape of this beautiful untouched archipelago just south of Mallorca is considered one of the best-preserved in the Mediterranean, with important colonies of seabirds and a wide variety of flora and fauna, some of it rare even in the rest of the Balearics. There are three beaches and several hiking routes: one leads to the mostly 16th-century castle in the north, another to the 19th-century Ensiola lighthouse to the south. A great end to the day is a visit to Cova Blava or Cueva Azul, the ‘blue cave’, a magical place to swim into off a boat. There is a small café and museum, and a permit is needed to visit, so

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join an official boat trip from Colònia de Sant JordI. Several companies offer excursions. Start at the visitor centre on the mainland ,  of Mallorca, where there is an aquarium and helpful information about tours. Carrer Gabriel Roca, 07638 Colonia de Sant Jordi, +34 971656282 (39.3186, 2.9996). 4 hours, 39.1442, 2.9371 4`9-

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43 S’EMBAT, SES COVETES Enjoy the relaxed vibe at this beach-shack restaurant in a lovely wooded area just back from the beach at Ses Covetes (see Platja d’Es Trenc entry). Great atmosphere, good food, and live music on Sundays with the best of the island’s musicians, dancers and artists, circus performers and more. Carrer des Murters, 9 Ses Covetes 07639 ,  Campos, +34 871 702772 39.3554, 2.9729 s

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44 CHIRINGUITO ES DOLÇ Awesome beach bar right on the sands of Platja des Dolç (see entry) across the bay from Colònia de Sant Jordi. Very accommodating staff and excellent freshly made food, especially seafood. Platja es Dolç, Colònia de Sant Jordi, 07640 ,  Ses Salines 39.3171, 3.0041 s 45 ES MOLI, SANTANYÍ A beautiful restaurant in an old windmill in the sleepy town of Santanyí, offering tables in an internal garden bursting with colourful flowers. Tapas is the main offering here. Carrer Consolació 19, 07650 Santanyí, ,  +34 971 653629 39.3583, 3.1333 s

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46 SA COVA, SANTANYÍ There’s a gorgeous little seating area cut out of rock like a cave inside this tapas bar, most probably the origin of its name. The outdoor seating surrounds a gnarled olive tree that is lit up at night, when live music, good food and great cocktails create a unique atmosphere. It spreads across the Plaça Major beside the looming church Parròquia de Sant Andreu, in the heart of this golden sandstone town. Plaça Major 30, 07650 Santanyí, +34 971 ,  16 33 70 39.3544, 3.1293 s

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47 FLOR DE SAL D’ES TRENC, SANTANYÍ This gourmet shop sits on one end of the charming pedestrian Plaça Major in the heart

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of Santanyí. You can buy all sorts of flavoured sea salt from the pans in the Parc Natural Es Trenc-Salobrar de Campos (see entry), as well as oils, wine and other ingredients. Plaça Major 15, 07650 Santanyí, ,  +34 971 654320 39.3542, 3.1283 s 48 5ILLES BEACH RESTAURANT Set just back from the wide sweeping beach, tucked into the forest but still with clear views to the sunset, this stylish and buzzy restaurant is wonderful for families; kids can run free on the beach while you wait for your huge shared paella to arrive. Just behind here lies the working salt flats of the Salines de s’Avall, great for bird watching but there are mosquitoes. Platya de Estany, 07638 Colònia de Sant ,  Jordi, +34 971 180558 39.3258, 2.9902 s 49 CASSAI BEACH HOUSE, PORTOCOLOM Lovely hip place to eat by the beach at Platja de Cala Galiota, in the town centre at Colònia de Sant Jordi. Good atmosphere, modern Mediterranean food and gorgeous views. Carrer Major, 21, 07638 Colònia de Sant Jordi ,  39.3146 2.9943 s 50 ORGANIC RESTAURANTE ECOLOGICO, PORTOCOLOM Delicious, beautifully presented organic fresh food with a lot of vegan options, which can be hard to find in this area, and check out the gorgeous drinks and colourful cocktails. Overlooking the bay of Platja de Cala Marçal, the view from the delightful terraced area is special. The service is excellent, and you need to make a reservation. Carrer del Corb Mari, 07670 Cala Marçal, ,  +34 674 804151 39.4091, 3.2579 s 51 PANORÁMICA PLAYA RESTAURANTE Right on the sea, this restaurant in Cala Blava lives up to its name with fabulous panoramic views over Palma Bay. The sunsets are stunning here. Typical Mediterranean food and generous portions, a terrace and chill-out sofa area and its own beach club, it’s best to book ahead here. A short walk west is a great little cove for cliff jumping called Cala Cap Rocat (39.4792, 2.7258). Passeig Dames 29, 07609 Llucmajor, ,  +34 971 740211 39.4805, 2.7299 s

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and wine in the excellent restaurant and in spacious, clean and comfortably furnished access to the thermal spa included. rooms, the gardens are beautifully laid out and the pool is inviting. Breakfasts are 52 FINCA HOTEL RURAL ES TURÓ Carretera Campos, Colonia de Sant Jordi, ,  generous and the hosts are full of tips about km 8.2, 07630 Campos, +34 971 655016 Amazing36 rural hotel in beautiful surroundings Ma 2 -10 Lluc Platja de Murolocal eateries and beaches. near the beaches of Caló des Moro and Cala 39.3541, 3.0152 gs Carretera Palma- Porto Petro, km 33, Llombards (see entries). In the same46 group as ,  30 48 07630 Campos, +34 971 652387 Cassai Beach House28 restaurant (see entry), 22 54 CAN SULL, CAS CONCOS 1 8 it has excellent attention to detail in the 39.4457, 2.9738 g A charming little hotel in the centre of the Can Picafort 36 7 Campanet well-equipped suites, a great restaurant and Fornalutx 29 small community of Cas Concos des Cavaller. Son Bauló Caimari 6 44 40 5SA really 56 FINCA SA FONT BLAVA &47 23ECO 42 accommodating staff. Gorgeous infinity Moscari A magicalBúger gem ofsa a place. 34 PoblaThe interior décor is 20 4 23 area with views over 45 12 49 3 4 pool, garden and chillout 41 Colònia de Sant Pere BECADETA Selva stylish, the rooms are spacious, the breakfasts 21 2 65 33 30 50 s'Estanyol1 Montferrutx Cabrera and the sea. Mancor de la Vall 44 Muro Four-bedroom Sa Font Blava and the little bountiful, the garden dreamy and the pool 23 9 7 37 0 Cami De Cas Perets, s/n, 07640 Ses 350 ,  single-bedroom Sa Benedeta right next door absolutely perfect. Ma- There’s a lovely farm shop in Biniamar 37 Salines,Orient +34 971 649531 can be rented independently or together: the village selling seasonal fruit, almonds, wine 28 Inca Lloseta 25 Artà 52 39.3536, 3.0780 both properties are a rural idyll. Both offer and more called Magatzem Agrícola 0Ca’n Puça. 51 gs 344 MaLlubí 11 46 45 39 fabulous attention to detail and cool, simple 32 Alaró Carrer Major 30, 07208 Cas Concos des ,  38 26 52 decor, very comfortable accommodation and 53 FONTSANTA HOTEL Cavaller, +34 971 842404 Binissalem 21 a lovely pool and garden This gorgeous hotel in the countryside is 39.4171, 3.1381 gs Maria de la Salut 50 Camino de Son Pieras Poligono 42, 07620 a haven27 of calm yet very close to Es Trenc ,  Consell Ariany Llucmajor, safontblava.com beach and right on the edge of the protected 55Costitx FINCA SON SALA 33 01 nature reserve of Es Trenc-Salobrar de Sencelles Ma-33 39.4961, 2.8633 g 13An oasis of calm in Sineu 19 del Camí 31 a fabulous building 32Santa Campos (see entries).Maria Beautiful, secluded Cascanar 17 complex dating back to the 13th century, just Biniali 18 Ma-3020 030 gardens and pools to relax in, fantastic food Sant Llorenç des Cardassar Ma-4 outside es Caülls Ruberts Campos. Excellent accommodation 53 40Petra

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mallorca north Our perfect weekend , Bathe in the light of the sun rising over Menorca from the dramatic Far de Formentor , Snake down the crazy switchback Ruta de Sa Calobra, in a car or on your bike , Explore the twisty smugglers tunnels and magical flowstone formations of Sa Cova Tancada , Dine on delicious vegetarian fare in Restaurant Bellaverde’s delightful shady courtyard , Marvel at the miracle of the Font Ufanes surging up from the forest floor after heavy rain , Snorkel among anemones, starfish and sea urchins in the remote cove of Cala Figuera , Feast on the world’s best ensaïmada at Forn Can Rafel in Buger , Hurl yourself off a cliff, coasteering style, in the bay of Pollença , Kayak round the rugged, lonely coast to Cala Estremer looking out for dolphins and flying fish , Hike on La Ruta Seca and sleep in a remote hostel high in the Serra de Tramuntana

This wild, rugged corner of Mallorca makes the heart beat a little faster. It’s a place for adventurers and pilgrims, a symphony of sea, wind and mountains. Remote hostels along the iconic Ruta de Pedra en Sec hiking trail are buzzing with hikers, cyclists and even horseback riders, all poring over maps, brewing coffee on little stoves and sharing stories under the twinkling stars that decorate the dark night sky. You are a world away from high-rise beach hotels and sun loungers.

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The scenery is dramatic here, with tall pine-clad mountains dipping into deep blue and enticing hidden coves. Even driving is not for the fainthearted: the narrow roads twist through the jaw-dropping views, and wild mountain goats roam in ancient olive groves. The Serre de Tramantuna is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, on the strength of not just its wild landscape but its cultural heritage – the old cobbled roads in the villages, the ancient terraces and watering systems, the buildings in local stone. XX 4

Mountain villages such as Fornalutx and Biniaraix are indeed picturepostcard beautiful. Streets are steep and narrow with flowers blooming in pots and tin cans and intricately painted tiles on the walls. Busy little church squares with old-style cafes and bakeries sell local delights such as delicious traditional ensaïmada pastries. And all surrounded by fruit and olive groves where oranges and figs are laid out in baskets for passers-by to take in return for a coin or two. This corner of Mallorca is a place where time seems to stand still, where exploring can be both beautiful and perilous – a place to feel truly free.

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beautiful & hidden coves 1 SA CALOBRA This truly stunning, remote beach lies at the end of the Torrent de Pareis canyon (see entry). The 200m cliffs almost encircle an expanse of shingle on the river, with a dramatic narrow gateway to the sea. Beyond are steps and a walkway that are fantastic for cliff jumping into the open sea. Even arriving at this beach is an adventure, driving the crazy switchback of the Ruta de Sa Calobra (see entry) down to a rocky little fishing cove that shares its name with this beach, then walking around the cliff and through a tunnel. Alternatively, you can hike down the Torrent de Pareis itself, but we recommend you go with a guide. There have been unique choral performances on the beach here in July most summers since 1964, the awesome acoustics created by the cliffs making it an altogether otherworldly experience. On Ma-10 8.5km S from Lluc, take R for ,  Sa Calobra immediately after passing under stone aqueduct. Follow this road about 12km, through hairpins, down to large, signed car park R (39.8476, 2.7982). Walk 400m down to shore and follow paved walkway R for a further 600m around headland and through tunnel to shore. 20 mins, 39.8520, 2.8060 0qz-

2 CALA TUENT Below the massive peak of Puig Major, pine-covered hillsides slope down gently to frame the perfect sweeping curve of this little cove. More remote and considerably quieter than nearby Sa Calobra (see entry) the beach is a mix of sand and pebbles. You can hire kayaks and paddleboards here from Tuent Adventure (+34 611 661406) to explore the rugged coastline. A short walk along the coast takes you to the super relaxed and fabulous restaurant Es Vergeret (see entry). Start as for Sa Calobra (see entry) 10km ,  after the aqueduct turning take L on bend signed for beach. Follow 4.6km to end and limited roadside parking space above beach. 2 mins, 39.8406, 2.7766 2-hs1 3 CALA ESTREMER Wildly beautiful, this small, remote boulder beach is one of the most inaccessible coves in Mallorca; the only way to visit is by kayaking in a guided expedition. These leave from Cala Sant Vicenç and head out past the looming cliffs and caves of El Pontàs and around the Punta de Coves Blanques. Continuing on round the rugged coastline you will only be able to beach the

kayaks when you arrive if the weather is favourable. On the way there or back you might be lucky enough to see dolphins or flying fish. We recommend Món Aventura Kayak Rental ,  (Plaça Vella 8, 07460 Pollença, +34 971 535248). Follow Ma-2200 E from El Calvari 1.5km to signed L for Cala Sant Vicenç on Ma2203. At edge of village in 3km turn R signed for Coves d’Alzinaret and follow this road to car park at end by Cala Molins beach where tours begin (39.9192, 3.0565) 2 hours, 39.9298, 3.0386 2`hU 4 CALA CARBÓ, CALA SANT VICENÇ This gorgeous little rocky cove lies just outside the hillside fishing village of Cala Sant Vicenç, where a short walk east along the Camino Can Botana brings you into open countryside with a pebbly beach and the clear turquoise sea stretching out invitingly. There are also three small beaches with crystal-clear water in the village itself, as well as some interesting hypogea (Coves d’Alzinaret, 39.9152, 3.0483). Park as for kayak trips to Cala Estremer ,  (see entry). Turn R from Cala Molins and walk 270m E around headland on quiet coast road. 10 mins, 39.9192, 3.0603 1-

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5 CALA BOQUER, FORMENTOR This tranquil cove lies at the end of a short hike from Port de Pollença along Camí Boquer, a charming stony trail amongst pine, palm and scrub. You may find you have wild goats for company so keep an eye on your picnic! The trees and bushes thin out as you gain height, then you scramble down the last bit onto a gorgeous pebble beach sheltered by giant cliffs of calcereous stone. There is very little vegetation on these steep cliffs, but the beach will probably have washed up posidonia, the seaweed that keeps the water so beautifully clear. Take Ma-2200 from Pollença to Port de ,  Pollença. On reaching edge of town and bypass, take third exit on roundabout with aeroplane sculpture, heading NE signed Formentor. Continue over one roundabout, then at next head L taking fourth exit and park in gravelled area R (39.9131, 3.0839). The trail starts here and follows the Boquer valley to beach. 60 mins, 39.9287, 3.0946 z-0A

wonderful place to relax, nestled below the peak of Es Fumat behind and protected by an almost vertical stone cliff on one side and a soft sandstone slope on the other. The crystal waters are great for snorkelling, with rocks and marine vegetation harbouring many species of fish, anemones, starfish and sea urchins, while sandy areas of seabed give a gorgeous pale green hue that turns into deep turquoise further out. It is a bit of a scramble down the steep path from the car park on the road to Cap de Formentor (see entry), but well worth it. From edge of Port de Pollença head N on ,  Ma-2210 towards Cap de Formentor. After about 11km as rocky Es Fumat looms ahead, turn L into car park with sign for Camí de Cala Figuera (39.9493, 3.1716). Take narrow path down steep slope to beach. Congestion means that driving this road is now limited to residents 10a.m.–7p.m. in high season, with shuttle bus 334 from Port de Pollença that stops here during the day, and free parking at the bus station (39.9090, 3.0797). Cyclists can go through. 15 mins, 39.9521, 3.1730 z0h-1

6 CALA FIGUERA, FORMENTOR This secluded little gem on the wild and craggy north side of the Formentor peninsula is a

7 CALA MURTA, FORMENTOR Picturesque and remote little south-facing bay with a shingle beach, and large areas

8 XX of sand on the gently sloping seabed giving the clear, clean water its gorgeous turquoise colour. The beach is boxed in by impressively steep rocks and cliffs, almost like a fjord. The vegetation on these rugged headlands of the Formentor peninsula is sparse, low maquis and pine trees, and the south side extends out into the sea like an animal’s tail or long snout, with the wonderful viewpoint of El Castellet near the end making it worth a walk. Park as for Cala Figuera (see entry). Walk ,  back down road about 150m to signed trail L to Cala Murta. 25 mins, 39.9408, 3.1811 -10Ah 8 PLATJA DE FORMENTOR This long, slender arc of sand overhung by pine trees is a truly beautiful location, and the shallow water makes it perfect for families. All this means it can get busy, so is best visited out of season, early mornings or late afternoons. You can also hire SUP or kayaks here to explore the dramatic, rugged coastline. Follow Ma-2210 from edge of Port de ,  Pollença N, signed Cap de Formentor (see entry) for 7km, turn R for car park. Congestion means that driving this road is now limited

to residents 10a.m.–7p.m. in high season, with shuttle buses 333 and 334 from Port de Pollença stopping here during the day, and free parking at the bus station (39.9090, 3.0797). Cyclists can go through. 5 mins, 39.9280, 3.1385 K2q

quiet calas 9 PLATJA DE SA FONT DE SANT JOAN With just a few low buildings scattered along the coast behind it, this wide, sandy beach feels unspoilt and calm and has stunning views over the clear blue water of Pollença Bay. The sand extends around a wiggly headland for a short distance east until it becomes Platja de San Pere; there are not many sandy, shallow beaches along this side of the Alcúdia peninsula, which may explain why this stretch is overlooked by both the 18thcentury Castell de Manresa (now a luxury hotel) and the ruins of a more recent bunker below it (39.8661, 3.1347). From SE of Alcúdia take Carrer De Xara E, ,  Alcúdia signed for Bonaire. Follow 1.7km to crossroads, turn L onto Camí de Manresa and follow to parking R above shore. 2 mins, 39.8645, 3.1379 q1-

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XX 10 10 CALA GII, BONAIRE A hidden and rather magical treasure of a bay. Find the stone staircase hidden in a residential street and follow it down to the water, where you can swim out under a natural stone arch or jump off the rocks into deep water. There are also ladders and beautiful views under the clear water for snorkelling, and a heavenly rock pool just big enough to get in and enjoy its silky water. Usually only frequented by locals because the staircase is unsigned and tucked between houses – you really have to know what’s there or you’d never notice it. In the village of Bonaire follow Camí Vell ,  de Victoria along seafront to car park just E of harbour. Walk on up the road NE about 400m and turn L at crossroads at top down Carrer Fonoll. About 100m along, after double garage, steps are on L. 10 mins, 39.8695, 3.1496 -tA01

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11 LA VICTÒRIA, BONAIRE This little river-mouth beach of shingle is lovely for swimming, and you can sit under the little road bridge for cool shade. La Victòria nature reserve begins here, and the peninsula becomes a wild and rugged place with secret coves, steep, winding

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roads and wandering feral goats; the village has petered out, vegetation has taken over and the lofty Talaia d’Alcúdia peak rears up in the centre. The area is named after the nearby hermitage of La Victòria, further up the road, with a restaurant beside it and fabulous views. From the harbour in the village of Bonaire ,  head NE on Camí Vell de la Victoria about 1km to parking R just after bridge with gateposts and signs for the nature reserve. Walk under the bridge or cross the road to the rocks. 2 mins, 39.8712, 3.1541 1-0 12 COASTEERING ALCÚDIA Experience the adrenaline thrill of hurling yourself from a great height and plunging into deep cool water along this wild coastline. Coasteering takes the joy of cliffjumping (together with swimming, abseiling, scrambling, climbing and deep-water soloing) to another level, all in the safe hands of local professionals. Expeditions usually start from La Victòria car park (see entry). Contact Experience Mallorca, Avenida ,  son Noguera 7 local 2, Llucmajor, + 34 687 358922, experience-mallorca.com (39.4845, 2.8516) 4 hours, 39.8708, 3.1545 wT9

XX 13 13 PLAYA DE S’ILLOT, ALCÚDIA An idyllic little pine-tufted island that you can swim to – or walk when water is low – gives this beach its name. It’s a gorgeous sandy bay with a scattering of boulders, very safe and shallow, with rich marine life, so perfect for rock jumping, nervous swimmers and snorkelling, and the views over to the rugged Formentor peninsula are spectacular. Restaurant S’Illot (+34 971 557127) serves great seafood and more in a relaxed setting with fabulous views just above the beach, where there is parking, or it’s just a short walk along the quiet road from its neighbour, La Victòria (see entry). From the harbour in the village of Bonaire ,  head NE on Camí Vell de la Victoria about 1.7km to sign for restaurant L. Parking opp, or down on headland; beach is R of headland. 3 mins, 39.8730, 3.1620 s1qA 14 PLATJA DE COLL BAIX, ALCÚDIA Coll Baix is a remote treasure, with azure waters lapping on a pale half-moon of pebble and sand, tucked away under steep wooded cliffs a good hike from the nearest parking place. There are more remote and hidden coves along the end of the Alcúdia peninsula, such as Es Clot and Platjola de

la Solana just to the north, but this one is bigger than its neighbours and well worth the effort. Up on the hill is the Refugí des Coll Baix, a basic bothy-type shelter where hikers can book space, perhaps to take in an extra hike to Cap de Menorca, which gives astonishing views right over to Menorca on a clear day. A cliffside walk takes you round to the fascinating cave Sa Cova Tancada (see entry). Best to head out here in the morning: the sun sinks early behind the high cliffs. From Port d’Alcúdia head NW over the Ma,  3460 roundabout onto Carrer De Pollentia, signed Alcúdia, then turn R after 500m onto Carrer De l’Estel. Follow round bend R, then fork L after 170m turn L onto Camí de S’Alou heading E. Continue for 2km and at T junction turn R and continue 4km to park under trees at end near the Refugí (39.8581, 3.1826). Follow the path downhill to the beach, scrambling over rocks at end. Book Refugí online or call +34 971 177652 Mon–Fri 10a.m.–2p.m. 30 mins, 39.8617, 3.1883 hA115 ILLA D’ALCANADA, ALCÚDIA A pretty and accessible little island with a sandy beach and a small lighthouse, opposite the lovely tree-lined and dog-

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XX 17 friendly beach of Platja d’Alcanada. You can cross by boat or paddleboard, or even wade a good distance and swim, and enjoy a different perspective on the inland-facing beach. Clean water, great for swimming and snorkelling. Follow Ma-3460 around Port D’Alcúdia ,  to E end, at roundabout by port take third exit, signed Alcanada (Camí d’Alcanada). Follow this road 2km to parking at end by beach. Walk E on beach, island is visible 140m from headland. 8 mins, 39.8360, 3.1699 `wh

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16 PLATJA DES SECS, ALCÚDIA This secluded beach is at the foot of a gentle, tree-clad slope, and clear water, cleaned by the posidonia that often collects here, laps the long and narrow strip of shingle. The bay is quieter than its neighbour overlooking Illa d’Alcanada (see entry) and therefore often visited by nudists. It is also one of few beaches where dogs are welcome. Park as for Illa d’Alcanada and walk along ,  the coastal trail another 700m beyond the headland and island. 20 mins, 39.8397, 3.1750 A01-

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17 ES FARALLÓ, ALCÚDIA This V-shaped cove is well hidden and rarely visited by tourists. The rocky seabed conceals many marine treasures, so it’s well worth bringing masks and fins for snorkelling or diving, and just above the cove is the Museu sa Bassa Blanca (+34 971 549880), a modern art museum with sculpture park. Park as for Illa d’Alcanada and walk along ,  the coastal trail another 1km beyond the headland and island, past Platja des Secs (see entry). If you want to visit the gallery, you can drive closer: the entrance gate (39.8500, 3.1757) is off the dirt road to Platja de Coll Baix (see entry) and there is an entry fee. 40 mins, 39.8421, 3.1787 A01-

stunning hikes 18 FAR DES CAP GROS, PORT DE SÓLLER It’s a fun hike up narrow winding roads to reach this landmark 19th-century lighthouse (or you can drive it). You can watch spectacular sunsets from here, and check out the incredible views of Soller and the surrounding area. The Refugí de Muleta just next door offers coffee or beer or even overnight stays, and you can

19 XX hike from there to Refugí Tossals on the Ruta de Pedra en Sec (see entry). This whole protected peninsula is the Reserva Natural Sóller. From Port de Sóller head W along the coast ,  on the Camí del Far and up to summit. There is parking below the restaurant. 30 mins, 39.7970, 2.6816 z6g

the start of the trail (39.8021, 2.7019). Follow the track past olive groves and look for a gate on your left at Coll s’Illa. Look for handwritten ‘Torre’ markers, and you will need to use a bit of intuition to find your way as it isn’t always straightforward or well marked. 45 mins, 39.8065, 2.6975 AE7w

19 TORRE PICADA, PORT DE SÓLLER Perched at the edge of a towering, almost sheer cliff this solid watchtower seems to be standing at the prow of a ship. Built in the 17th century against pirate attacks, when those inside would light signal fires to warn of approach, it remained in use to combat smuggling in the 19th century, and for defence in the Spanish Civil War. Today the magnificent views can just be enjoyed for themselves, although you can’t go inside the tower at present. There are beautiful gnarly old olive trees along the route, which begins as a tarred road and then becomes rocky gravel. This route starts in Port de Sóller. Park ,  in Placa dels Reis de Mallorca (or possibly just off Ma-2124 roundabout and walk in) and follow Carrer De Belgica uphill. When it bends L follow pathway straight ahead,

20 COVA DES MIGDIA The ‘midday cave’ is a large cavern with fantastically shaped stalactites, where almost magical light pours in through the wide entrance above in the middle of the day, so no torches are required. The entrance is partially hidden by bushes, but once you’ve found it there are steps carved into the stone leading down inside. The route up starts on the Camí de S’Illeta, an overgrown coastal path marked with cairns, then turns to the mountain top Puig de Bàlitx, with breathtaking views down to Port de Sóller. A tough but rewarding hike, it crosses private land and may be closed. Start at the same trailhead as for the Torre ,  Picador (see entry). You will need a detailed map to navigate this route: mallorcaoutdoors. com is a good place to start. 6 hours, 39.8101, 2.7183 E96vUhW

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XX 21 21 BARRANC DE BINIARAIX, GR221 The GR221 is a network of restored dry-stone paths for walkers in the Serra de Tramuntana. The entire route stretches the length of the north-west coast, but you can walk shorter sections of it, and there are even circular routes along the way. There are large signs and maps at various trailheads, but we advise taking a detailed hiking map with you or picking up the GR221 book locally. Book hostel and refugí overnight stops in advance on the Consell de Mallorca website. The Barranc section is a deep, dramatic gorge running north-west into the Sóller valley. This section of the GR221 route is a partly circular hike on well-maintained stone paths with breathtaking views, following the Torrent de Biniaraix up the mountain to a waterfall that appears only after heavy rain. Great areas for rock climbing on the way, and wonderful for bird watching. You start and end in the tiny, magical village of Biniaraix with its narrow streets and ancient stone laundry and drinking fountain, Font d’en Det. There are many route and distance options; you could complete a further circuit of Puig l’Ofre in 4–5 hours, or continue on to the Embassament de Cúber lake (see entry) in around 4 hours. Alternatively, you can catch a bus to Cúber and walk back to Biniaraix.

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Take the Calle d’Ozones E out of Sóller, ,  becoming Camí de Biniaraix. Park carefully on R on the main road at the entrance of the village (39.7701, 2.7316). Walk up through village to trailhead at top (39.7713, 2.7361). 4–5 hours, 39.7640, 2.7533 A4Ez 22 REFUGÍ MULETA TO TOSSALS VERDS This section of the GR221 hike begins at Refugí Muleta on the coast near Port de Sóller and wanders through a fertile valley of orange groves, also known as the valley of gold, towards the pretty mountain village of Fornalutx. Rosemary bushes proliferate beside the path, which winds on through holm oaks and the dramatic Barranc de Biniaraix gorge (see entry) before eventually arriving at the Font des Nagner spring, where you can fill up your water bottle. Then it’s on to the lake of Embassament de Cúber (see entry) and uphill to Refugí Tossals Verds (see entry). This section is quite tough, rising from 100m above sea level to 525m over 27km. Look out for a rare, protected species endemic to the Serra de Tramuntana called the midwife toad, which lives in streams in limestone caverns and hides under boulders and stones. From Port de Sóller head W along the coast ,  on the Camí del Far up to the parking point

XX 23 below the restaurant and the Refugí Muleta, where the trail begins. 9 hours, 39.7968, 2.6807 z46A

for Refugí. Follow 5km to the car park L at end and well-signed track up to Refugí from gate. 6 hours, 39.7687, 2.8190 46z8

23 REFUGÍ TOSSALS VERDS TO SON AMER This section of the GR221 is entirely in the peaks of the mighty Serra de Tramuntana, where the vegetation is sparse and the ground is often covered in snow in winter. In the past, snow and ice were harvested here by nevaters, and the route passes the remains of several elliptical dry-stone cases de neu, where snow and ice were stored under ash to be brought down and sold in the summer. The highest point of the hike is 1,100m at Coll des Prat, then the path descends to the iconic Santuari de Lluc monastery, the most important pilgrimage site in Mallorca, where you can stop for refreshments or even stay the night. Passing Font des Prat, a spring with a dry-stone roof, the path soon arrives at Refugí Son Amer (see entry). Although less than 14km long, this section is fairly challenging. Look out for black vultures, successfully reintroduced here in the 1980s. From roundabout to SW of Lloseta village ,  head N on Ma-2111 signed Alaró. After 1.8km road bends L, continue straight ahead signed

24 SA COVA TANCADA This spectacular cave on the Alcúdia peninsula with its extraordinary flowstone displays was prosaically used for storage by 20th-century tobacco smugglers. The entrance is quite small and squared out, but inside it opens up into a warren of chambers and tunnels, with steps cut into the stone leading in all directions. Keep a written or photographed track of your route; people have used tealights as markers, but this harms the cave environment. You will need sturdy footwear, a torch (ideally head torch), spare batteries and a guide before for an exploration; this cave is isolated and should never be entered alone and without competent guidance. A broad track becomes a stony path and then a via ferrata on the rocky headland; not recommended if you have vertigo. Several tour operators take boat or kayak ,  trips to the base of the cliff, where it is a short scramble up to the cave. From land, head NW from Port d’Alcúdia over the Ma-3460 roundabout onto Carrer De Pollentia, signed

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XX 25 Alcúdia, then turn R after 500m onto Carrer De l’Estel. Follow round bend R, then fork L after 170m turn L onto Camí de S’Alou heading E. Continue for 2km and at T junction turn R and continue 4km to park under trees at end near the Refugí (39.8581, 3.1826). Trails to Sa Cova Tancada and Platja des Coll Baix (see entry) start here. 3 hours, 39.8541, 3.1913 E9vw 25 TORRENT DE PAREIS This jaw-dropping karst canyon is a dangerous paradise, and walking and clambering down it is one of the most stunning and challenging hikes in Mallorca. Starting from the Escorca in the heart of the Serra de Tramuntana, the route includes scrambles over large boulders and through narrow squeezes, finally opening onto a beautiful sandy beach in the bay of Sa Calobra (see entry). The cliffs either side are so tall and vertical that there is no phone signal and no other exit from the canyon, which can be very cold, or hot, or flood after rain. It’s not an easy trail to follow in places, so should only be undertaken with a guide and never in rainy weather or in winter. The name means ‘torrent of the pairs’

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and describes the union of two deep canyons, the smaller being the Torrent de Gorg Blau, which is so narrow and deep that no daylight reaches in. Look out for rare black vultures circling above in search of the corpses of animals who fell by the wayside. The walk starts from near Escorca which ,  is just off the Ma-10 about 5km W of Lluc. We suggest using a guide such as Mallorca Walks (mallorcawalks.com) who can also arrange return transport via boat from Sa Calobra to Puerto Sóller, or via bus to the start point. 8 hours, 39.8424, 2.8232 wvUhz4E

ancient wonders 26 CUITAT ROMANA DE POLLENTIA These fascinating and extensive Roman ruins lie just outside the castle ramparts of the old city of Alcúdia, where the medieval history is also worth exploring. You can explore the remains of this ancient town with its amphitheatre using a QR code which explains what you are looking at. The site is still being excavated. The small entry charge is great value and includes the local museum.

In the town of Alcúdia head to Avinguda ,  Príncep d’Espanya in the SW, and the site car park is on the bend, opp large church. 2 mins, 39.8505, 3.1204 Q7Q 27 CASTELL DEL REI This extraordinary and ancient ruined castle is built not so much on as into a windblown golden cliff above the barren north-west coast. The hike in from Pollença is one of the loveliest in Mallorca, the setting truly remote and dramatic. Built in the 12th century by the Moors then reinforced by Jaume I in the 13th century, it has been abandoned since 1715. It lies within the large private Ternelles estate, and you have to apply at the town hall in Pollença for a permit, which can take up to four days as daily numbers are limited; you can also ask to visit the wild and remote pebble beach of Cala Castell, also within the estate and otherwise reachable only by boat. The route leaves Pollença from next to ,  the beautiful Roman Bridge, at Camí de Ternelles, where there is parking. The town hall should provide route instructions when you request access permission. Cala Castell is at 39.9310, 3.0309. 5 hours, 39.9227, 3.0102 76AU

lakes & wetlands 28 EMBASSAMENT DE GORG BLAU The name of the river dammed to create this reservoir means ‘blue well’, and the waters of this enclave of calm beauty are an exceptionally vivid shade of blue. The two mountains that flank it are almost vertical, and the valley slopes are a haven for wildlife including birds of prey. On the eastern shore below Puig Massanella there is a partly submerged Talaiotic site, Almallutx. A road runs along the western shore below Puig Major and through an impressive rock tunnel, created when the hydroelectric dam was built in 1906; this lake is a great place to stop before or after driving the hairpins of the iconic Ruta de Sa Calobra (see entry). The first of Mallorca’s reservoirs, since the 1970s Gorg Blau has been used for water supply rather than power; swimming is prohibited. Several more reservoirs were planned, but in the end only neighbouring Cúber (see entry) was created. Take the Ma-10 from Lluc W towards ,  Fornalutx. After 9km enter the tunnel, and on the other side are several parking laybys along the shore. The one given here has a marker pillar for Almallutx; look over

XX 28 to two pillars on opp shore. Reachable on foot around S end of lake, but site is mostly below water. 2 mins, 39.8066, 2.8188 zhW 29 EMBASSAMENT DE CÚBER This luminously blue-green reservoir nestled beneath Mallorca’s highest mountain, Puig Major, and fed by the Torrent de l’Ofre is a breathtakingly beautiful and tranquil place. You can walk all the way round in about an hour on a reasonably flat path; a good point to start is from the Font des Noguer spring. The cliffs above the dam at the far end are a good area for raptors, and you might be lucky enough to see a rare black vulture or Griffon vulture; booted eagles and Eleanora’s falcons have also been seen. The Ruta de Pedra En Sec skirts the northern shore of the reservoir. This is one of two artificial reservoirs supplying water to the people of Palma de Mallorca and the surrounding areas, together with neighbouring Gorg Blau (see entry) and swimming is prohibited. From S end of Gorg Blau continue 2km ,  along Ma-10 and park. Several parking areas, including one under trees near Font des Noguer (39.7871, 2.7995). 2 mins, 39.7860, 2.7933 zh

XX 29 30 FONT UFANES, CAMPANET This area was declared a Natural Monument in 2001 because of a spectacular natural phenomenon that occurs when heavy rain falls in the Serra de Tramuntana. Underground watercourses are overwhelmed, and water gushes up seemingly from nowhere to surge through the holm oak forest and quickly turn the ground into a flooded torrent. In the dry summer months you would never guess such a thing could happen. The medieval church is also worth visiting, built shortly after the Christian re-conquest of the island,

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XX 31 on the site of earlier Christian and Islamic establishments. Nearby are the Coves de Campanet show caves. Sant Miquel and the caves are signed from ,  Campanet on the Camí Blanc, follow 9km to T junction. Turn L and immediately L again to park by church visible ahead (39.7931, 2.9637). Walk back to bend in road and E up 110m to signed entrance of Es Gabelli finca (open 10a.m.–5p.m.) and a further 50m NW along the estate road and R through woods. Crowds can gather: there is more parking near show caves, continue shortly past finca gates and turn R, 250m to parking L. 5 mins, 39.8044, 2.9645 5Azh

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31 RESERVA NATURAL DE S’ALBUFERETA The wide bay of Pollença, so popular with tourists, is also the surprising home of a small wetland of huge botanical and ornithological value. It’s a marshy area covered by reeds and bulrushes and separated from the sea by a narrow barrier of dunes, and has one of the largest tamarisk woods on the island as well as over 300 other species, some found only here. There are two lakes and several canals that almost always carry water, making it invaluable to birds. Spend some time sitting quietly here

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and you may well be rewarded by seeing birds of prey such as marsh harriers, osprey and Eleonora’s falcons, water birds including herons and purple swamphen and flocks of warblers. One of the best ways to visit the reserve ,  is by cycling from Port de Pollença. Head S on Ma-2220 for 3.5km. About 450m after crossing river turn R onto Carrer Salvador Dalí, then R again at crossroads to double back along Carrer Fransisco de Goya. Park near far end, walk to end, turn L and follow trails into reserve. 5 mins, 39.8570, 3.0983 5Dzq

scenic routes & points 32 FAR DE FORMENTOR Mallorca’s most northerly point is nicknamed ‘the meeting of the winds’ which added just one more consideration for the engineer of the switchback road over the rugged Formentor peninsula, the same one who dreamed up the Ruta de Sa Calobra (see entry). His route follows the contours of the land in wildly swinging twists and turns around 400m cliffs that fall sheer to the sea, tenacious pines clinging to the weird rock formations where gulls and Eleanor’s

falcons nest. It is a hair-raising experience whether you drive, cycle or hike. Stop for the view at Mirador d’Es Colomer (see entry) then continue through pine woods with trails to more lookout points before tunnelling through El Fumat mountain. At the wild and windy lighthouse, which opened in 1863, you can see all the way to Menorca on a clear day. Small bar and shop. From edge of Port de Pollença head N on ,  Ma-2210, 18km to end. Congestion means that driving this road is now limited to residents 10a.m.–7p.m. in high season, with a shuttle bus 334 from Port de Pollença during the day with free parking at the bus station (39.9090, 3.0797). Cyclists can go through, and you can get off and walk the last stretch from the Cala Figuera car park (see entry). 1 min, 39.9614, 3.2123 67* 33 RUTA DE SA CALOBRA One of the most scenic roads in the world, the wild and wonderful Ma-2141 is a destination in itself, and you have almost certainly seen it on screen. Built in 1932 it was designed by Antonio Paretti, as was the road to Far de Formentor (see entry). Famous for its snake-like bends, some very sharp, the narrow road winds from the island’s highest point, Puig Major, to the sea, following the mountain contours in a masterpiece of twists and turns. It was a model of environmentally sympathetic engineering: the masses of rock excavated to make it were used to sculpt and level the road. Paretti drew inspiration from his neck-tie knot for the innovative Nus de Sa Colabra, which turns a full circle under itself. Very narrow in places, the descent has to be taken very slowly, and drivers often have to reverse to a passing place. On Ma-10 8.5km S from Lluc, take R for ,  Sa Calobra immediately after passing under stone aqueduct. Follow this road (Ma-2141) about 12km, through hairpins, down to large, signed car park R (39.8476, 2.7982). The only way back is up the same road. 25 mins, 39.8477, 2.7985 6vw 34 MIRADOR ES COLOMER This view from here is truly spectacular, making it a stop on the road to Far de Formentor (see entry) or a destination in itself. Head up the stone steps to the wooden observation deck and gaze in awe at the gorgeous, sweeping ocean vistas. The cliff drops straight into the ocean from here, giving a clear view of the rocky little islet, Es Colomer, which is said to guard the peninsula. Its incredibly rich seabed attracts divers from all over the world.

XX 34 From edge of Port de Pollença head N on ,  Ma-2210, about 6km to parking L. Congestion means that driving this road is now limited to residents 10a.m.–7p.m. in high season, and the shuttle bus does not stop here. Cyclists can go through. 5 mins, 39.9300, 3.1112 6* 35 ESCALA DE L’AMO JOAN CERDA A fascinating piece of history at this famous road tunnel. The views from here are far-reaching but the real interest is the terrifying and precarious stone staircase cut into sheer cliffs which was used by the workers when the tunnel that takes the Far de Formentor road (see entry) through the mountain El Fumat was being excavated. Most of the iron railings are completely gone, making it very exposed and dangerous. An alternative route around the mountain for adrenalin junkies and thrill-seekers, this can be really dangerous and only attempted by the foolhardy, so take the risk seriously. The views are breathtaking, if you can bear to look down. From edge of Port de Pollença head N ,  on Ma-2210 towards Cap de Formentor (see entry). After about 11km as rocky Es Fumat looms ahead, turn L into car

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park with sign for Camí de Cala Figuera (39.9493, 3.1716). Congestion means that driving this road is now limited to residents 10a.m.–7p.m. in high season, with a shuttle bus 334 from Port de Pollença during the day that stops here, and free parking at the bus station (39.9090, 3.0797). Cyclists can go through. Walk on along road to start of tunnel and stone staircase up on left. Be extremely careful. 10 mins, 39.9495, 3.1771 vw6E

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eat 36 RESTAURANT ES VERGERET, CALA TUENT Best to book ahead for this wonderful, relaxed restaurant in a remote converted farmhouse above Cala Tuent (see entry). It offers traditional foods and a great view from the terrace. Also has an apartment above for a group stay. Carrer Cala Tuent, s/n, 07315 Cala Tuent, ,  +34 971 517105 39.8392, 2.7739 sg

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37 RESTAURANT LA TERRAZA, ALCANADA A beautifully positioned restaurant by Platja Alcanada, right on the seafront with incredible views from the bistro on the terrace. There are steps down to the beach and a little platform by the water, and a park and children’s playground right nearby. Enjoy a seafood paella or some arroz negro from the traditional local menu. Plaça Pompeu Fabra 7, 07400 Alcúdia, ,  +34 971 545611 39.8372, 3.1585 s

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38 CREPERIE MADUIXA, POLLENÇA Delicious crepes are cooked in front of you, and generously sized with great toppings. The smoothies and fruit juices here are fabulous. Carrer d’A ntoni Maura, 10, 07460 Pollença, ,  +34 606 751643 39.8775, 3.0153 s

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39 RESTAURANT BELLAVERDE VEGAN & VEGETARIAN Wonderful restaurant tucked away in a side street in Port de Pollença, probably still the only one in the area. Enchanting little oasis in their interior garden, which is shared with the Pension Bellavista (see entry) next door but open to non-guests. Carrer de les Monges, 14, 07470 Port de ,  Pollença, +34 675 602528 39.9059, 3.0810 sg

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40 BAR ALHAMBRA, POLLENÇA Fantastic tapas is served here, the smoked cod is a highlight. Set in a lovely little square, Plaça de l’Almoina, in the old town of Pollença, it’s a great place to watch the world go by. Plaça de l’Almoina, 7, 07460 Pollença ,  39.8779, 3.01597 41 FORN CAN RAFEL, BUGER A perfect, authentic Mallorcan bakery serving ensaïmadas (traditional coiled pastries) that were judged to be the best in the world in 2019. All their cakes are amazing, and they serve great coffee with a view of the 16th-century church. Situated in the small hilltop town of Buger, which is surrounded by almond and carob orchards. Carrer Major, 14, 07311 Búger, ,  +34 971 516213 39.7584, 2.9842

sleep 42 CAN VERDERA, FORNALUTX This charming, small hotel has just 11 rooms, a beautiful shaded courtyard and a terrace with panoramic views over the valley of bright citrus groves. Tucked away in the gorgeous old village of Fornalutx, with its steep lanes filled with bright potted plants – some say it’s the prettiest village in Spain. Carrer des Toros, 1, 07109 Fornalutx, ,  +34 971 638203 39.7820, 2.7400 43 PENSION BELLAVISTA, PORT DE POLLENÇA Run by the third generation of the family, this is one of the oldest hotels in Porto Pollença. The staff are really friendly, and the rooms good value, clean and comfortable. Connected to the Restaurant Bellaverde next door (see entry), with shared use of the absolutely gorgeous courtyard. Carrer de les Monges 14, 07470 Port de ,  Pollença, +34 699 549376 39.9058, 3.0811 44 FORNALUTX PETIT HOTEL Traditional old Mallorcan building with a cool, spacious interior, formerly a convent and a school; elegant, pared-back style, and the collection of modern art on the walls is a unique feature. Wonderful breakfasts on the sun terrace with glorious views and an infinity pool. Situated in a quiet street in the pretty village of Fornalutx with its narrow, cobbled streets and flower-filled stone steps

Carrer de l’Alba 22, 07109 Fornalutx, ,  +34 971 631997 39.7824, 2.7414 45 REFUGÍ TOSSALS VERDS, MARGARITA This is one of the most remote refuges on the Ruta de Pedra en Sec, in a magnificent mountain setting 550m above sea level and a long walk from roads or habitation. Offering bed, breakfast, lunch and dinner it’s an extremely welcome stop after the hike from Refugí Muleta (see entry), which is the longest section on the route and takes a full day to complete. Clean rooms, hot water, delicious dinner, stunning views, perfect! One of five government owned refugís on the route, book in advance on the Consell de Mallorca website. 07315 Escorca ,  39.7687, 2.8190

46 REFUGÍ SON AMER, ESCORCA This is the largest of the government-owned refuges in the Serra, situated at the very heart of the Serra de Tramuntana, near the imposing Lluc monastery. The recently converted sanctuary sits on a hillside surrounded by forest and has 52 beds in dormitories and rooms of various sizes, dining hall, good, hot showers and wood fires. One of five government owned refugís on the Ruta de Pedra en Sec, book in advance on the Consell de Mallorca website. 07315 Escorca ,  39.8182, 2.8916 47 BIKINI HOTEL, PORT DE SÓLLER This stylish remodel of a seafront hotel has created something quirky and magical. Attentive staff, fabulous breakfasts, Bohemian atmosphere, and a stunning view over the port from the sheltered little balconies with every room. There’s a wide

range of sporting activities included too: not just the gym and pool, but e-bike and SUP. No children. Carrer de Migjorn 2, 07108 Port de Sóller ,  39.8006, 2.6946 48 FANGAR, CAMPANET A really gorgeous finca in the peaceful, rural heart of Mallorca, this 18th-century possessió has several comfortable serviced casitas with kitchenettes to prepare your own meals, swimming pool. They maintain a quirky rustic and traditional feel with all the comforts of modern facilities. Off Camí de Fangar, 07310 Campanet, ,  +34 971 941185 39.8077, 2.9782

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mallorca central Our perfect weekend , Gallop along the sands of Es Dolç and swim into the sunrise on horseback , Stand at the very heart of Mallorca in the natural woodlands of Sa Comuna de Lloret , Lose yourself in the past inside the ancient walls of the Talaiot de Son Coll Nou , Feast on traditional food in an old wine cellar at Celler Son Toreó in the lovely village of Sineu , Bask in the sun on the empty white sands of the beach at S’Arenal d’en Casat , Discover a magical forest waterfall on a winter hike to at Es Salt de Freu , Feel the sand between your toes as you dine on the best paella at Ponderosa Beach bar , Swim out to S’Illot des Porros and explore an ancient burial ground , Brave the switchback road up to Santuari de Cura monastery to visit a hermit’s cave and enjoy stunning sunset views with dinner , Gaze at a million stars deep in a dark forest and sleep in a tree tent at remote Son Roig, an agriturismo in an ancient watermill

The centre of Mallorca is an area of contrasts, both topographical and cultural. Between dense, remote forests in the foothills of the dramatic Serra de Tramuntana mountain range and endless stretches of wild, deserted sandy beaches, this part of the island is a vast cultivated plain called Es Pla, where almond and olive trees and acres of vineyards stretch as far as the eye can see. Here every little town is a maze of narrow cobbled streets and steep alleyways, between buildings of golden marés sandstone with hidden wine cellars that serve delicious local food. Huge churches dominate their centres, and you could visit a market here every day, as most villages and towns host their own every week.

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In many of the towns the whole community gets together to celebrate traditional fiestas and religious festivals with great enthusiasm during the winter months, often filling the streets with processions of elaborate costumes, fire and demon chasing.

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In the west the oldest walking trail on the island, the Camí de Coanegra, takes hikers through ancient forests and up steep ascents to incredible viewpoints. The night sky in this isolated area of protected wilderness is unpolluted and perfect for stargazing.

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For those in a more historical frame of mind, the archaeological route of Sencella and Costitx offers a glimpse into the distant past of the island, and there are extraordinary necropolis sites to be found right on the beaches. Even the coast of this central region is a wild, protected area where wildlife flourishes and people are scarce. Between the villages you can hike for miles or gallop on horseback along pristine white beaches, and swim, surf and skinny dip in clear turquoise water.

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coast 1 PLATJA DE MURO, ALBUFUERA This long strip of bright white sand is a continuation of its more commercialised neighbours, Platja de Moro and Platja d’Alcúdia. Together they fringe the entire wide, sweeping curve of Alcúdia bay. Running south-east from where the Canal de Siurana joins the sea, at first there are low-rise buildings, but then all the way to the small town of C’an Picafort only the coastal road lies between the virgin beach and the vast, flat wetlands of the Parc Natural de S’Albufera (see entry), which you can walk into by the canal. You can hire kitesurf gear at the north end, and bikes and kayaks further up on Platja d’Alcúdia. There is also a long wooden jetty which is great to jump off! Folllow Ma-12 for 2km N from C’an Picafort ,  to beach car park R. Turn L on beach for jetty and places to eat, and R for quieter area and natural park. 2 mins, 39.7850, 3.1326 zD1

son real 2 PLATJA DE SON BAULÓ This triangle of bright, fine sand lies where the Torrent de Son Bauló flows into the sea

and the south-eastern edge of popular Ca’n Picafort gives way to dunes. It is about 200m long and up to 150m wide, with clear water that shelves gradually, though there can be big waves when the wind is from the north. A coastal path runs from here along Platja de Na Patana (see entry) all the way east to Betlem and beyond, into the wilderness. Showers and toilets are available and you can rent sunshades. Park in the village of C’an Picafort (no cars ,  allowed immediately behind the beach) and walk E along the seafront just beyond the edge of the rocky area. 5 mins, 39.7591, 3.1705 qks1-

4 S’ARENAL D’EN CASAT Distinct from the beach called Arenal de sa Canova (see entry) this long strip of secluded, wild, white beach is bordered by sand dunes and trees in the protected natural area of the Finca Pública de Son Real. Banks of posidonia seaweed, often visible on the shore, help to keep the waters beautifully clear. Head SE on the Ma-12 from C’an Picafort ,  village and Finca entrance is signed L at about 3km. Park at the information centre and follow well-signed path through estate for just over 2km, or hire bikes from the estate office. Head E at shoreline along this stretch of about 800m. 45 mins, 39.7509, 3.1916 A0Hz

3 PLATJA DE NA PATANA This wide, sweeping beach feels quite remote despite being a short walk from a busy village. A mixture of rocks and sand flanked by sand dunes, with perfectly blue sea and mountain views. A few minutes’ walk further east along the beach will take you to the amazing Necròpolis de Son Real (see entry). Park and walk as for Platja de Son Bauló ,  (see entry) but continue along the rocky shoreline for a further 5 mins. 10 mins, 39.7572, 3.1756 Aqz-0

5 ES DOLÇ This long stretch of sandy beach to the west of the quiet resort town of Son Serra leads into a string of other beaches all along the bay of Alcúdia to C’an Picafort village. The whole area is perfect for magical sunrise and sunset beach gallops on horseback (contact naturacavall.com) or surfing. Follow Ma-12 from C’an Picafort about 7km ,  and turn L signed Son Serra da Marina. Follow 1km to town edge and take first L onto Carrer Veneçuela, follow this 1km as it bends R at start and again at end to beach parking on L

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XX 7 (39.7391, 3.2196). Walk W to dunes and beach just beyond last houses. 3 minutes 39.7409, 3.2146 wxA 6 PLATJA DE SON REAL Rocky area of beach where the Torrent des Revellar joins the sea. Extensive meadows of zostera seagrass have formed here, purifying and oxygenating the water for great snorkelling and swimming. Park as for Es Dolç (see entry) but continue ,  walking along shore W 750m to river. 20 mins, 39.7423, 3.2104 A0Hz

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son serra 7 PLATJA DE SON SERRA DE MARINA One of a string of natural long, white beaches here, this lovely strand runs along below the town of Son Serra. At the eastern fringe it becomes Platja sa Canova at the outlet of Torrent de na Borges and the Pantà del Bisbe, a vast backdrop of protected wetland and dune landscape with wooden boardwalks and plenty of migratory birdlife to see. Son Serra de Marina has a relaxed, hippy atmosphere, and winter conditions are often particularly good for kitesurfing.

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Follow Ma-12 from C’an Picafort about 7km ,  and turn L signed Son Serra da Marina. Follow 2km into town and turn R onto Carrer Fra Juníper Serra, follow this 1.5km and find street parking near El Sol bar (see entry). Walk down to beach. Alternatively, park as for Es Dolç (see entry) and walk R past town along beach. 5 mins, 39.7328, 3.2348 1sk 8 ARENAL DE SA CANOVA A long sweep of sandy beach between Platja de Son Serra de Marina and S’Estanyol (see entries) that is never crowded and perfect for watching gorgeous sunrises. Crystalclear water washes a natural and unspoilt virgin beach with some algae and seaweed, bordered by the dunes of a protected wetland area. Some nudist areas. Parks as for Platja de Son Serra de ,  Marina and walk 1km from E end of town. Alternatively, park as for Es Dolç (see entry) and walk about 2.5km past town and on. 10 mins, 39.7299, 3.2472 9 PLATJA DE S’ESTANYOL Secluded, undeveloped pebble beach at the mouth of the Barranc de Sa Canova, just across from the beautiful little residential area of S’Estanyol. This area is a nature

XX 10 reserve, and the dunes are lined with pine and juniper. You can wander through them, or head west for miles on lovely beaches all along the bay of Alcúdia as far as C’an Picafort. Beware of tricky currents from the river mouth. From the seafront in Colonia St Pere ,  head W along the coastal road to S’Estanyol and turn R just before very end onto Carrer de s’Entrada. Turn L and park along Carrer des Pla de Mar, or follow around two bends, then turn R and R again to parking on L (39.7323, 3.2596). Walk west to cross footbridge over river and follow shore R around headland. 2 mins, 39.7324, 3.2571 0qA

historic and hidden 10 SA FONT DE PINA Although very close to Algaida, the quiet, traditional village of Pina is well off the tourist track. On its south-eastern edge there is an ancient Arabic qanawat, meaning ‘channels’, a well and water distribution structure. A reminder of the historic Arab presence, it’s about a thousand years old and one of only a few on the island. Make time to enjoy a reviving strong coffee in the

Plaça Major at the cosy little Bar Estanco and watch the world go by – especially on Tuesdays, when the market stalls are full of fresh local produce. Pina is signed form Ma-15 at roundabout ,  to E of Algaida. Follow signs on Ma-3130 4km to edge of village and park where road bends L into village with palm trees and stone arch ahead. Follow path through trees. 1 min, 39.5983, 2.9251 AQ 11 ERMITA DEL COCÓ, LLOSETA Also known as the Oratorio del Cocó, this small rural chapel was built in 1878 on top of a small cave. Legend says a Muslim shepherd saw a bright light on a rock at the Torrent des Rafal, part of the Torrent d’Almedrà, and found a statue of the Virgin Mary, which always returned when moved; there are several such stories in Mallorca, most famously that of the Black Virgin of Lluc. It is possible to scramble down to the cave where there is a rock with a hole, a ‘didalet’ that people put their fingers in to protect them from evil. You can walk north-west into the wilderness along the river; there’s a nice little bar next door called Es Cocó, where you can leave your bike if cycling.

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XX 13 Take Ma- 2111 (Avinguda de Cocó) SW out ,  of the village of Lloseta. Within 1km there is a layby R and path under trees to chapel. 2 mins, 39.7119, 2.8619 8A7 12 TORRE D’ENFILACIO, FINCA SON REAL Along this stretch of coast are a couple of dozen strange obelisk-shaped towers, in pairs. They date back to the Spanish Civil War, and were used either for submarine spotting or for targeting. This one is showing its age; its partner inland has been spruced up. Nearby is a tiny cave, Cova d’en Gurgull, and a small viewing platform for birdwatching with great views over the wild coastline and S’Illot des Porros (see entry). You can walk a few minutes from here out to a little headland, Punta des Patro. Head SE on Ma-12 from C’an Picafort ,  village; Finca Son Real entrance is signed L at about 3km. Park at information centre and follow well-signed path through estate just over 2km, or hire bikes from estate office. Tower is at end of path; partner tower visible inland (39.7518, 3.1866). Walk L along beach for Cova d’en Gurgull (39.7531, 3.1857), R for headland. 30 mins, 39.7525, 3.1875 7HA

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ancient 13 SANTUARI TALAIÒTIC DE SON CORRÓ These enigmatic pillars date from the Iron Age, about 500 BC, and once supported the roof of a building thought to have been a sanctuary. Three elegant life-sized bronze bulls’ heads were found here by a farmer in 1895 while removing stones from the edge of his field; the originals are in Madrid, but replicas can be seen in the Casal del Cultura de Costitx. A dry-stone wall surrounds six reassembled columns in front of an altar area. Fascinating to wander around and very quiet, so you will likely have the place to yourself. Follow Ma-3121 from Costitx W dir ,  Sencelles. After about 1.4km turn R into bumpy parking area (for one or two cars, be careful not to ground) with signboard. Short walk up to site. 2 mins, 39.6530, 2.9334 QA 14 TALAIOT DE SON COLL NOU This lonely talaiot in a quiet field near Algaida is in good condition even though it was used for keeping livestock, and over 4m high and 13m in diameter. You can enter through the original doorway – more of a corridor due to

the thickness of the walls – without having to stoop, and the construction is impressive, the irregular local boulders packed tight with smaller stones. At Ma-15 roundabout at SW of Montuïri ,  take the exit signed Randa, follow as it sweeps left then bends R after 250m. Follow 1.4km to crossroads and turn R (Camí vell de Porreres), then after 1km take L (Camí de la Pau de Castellitx). Follow this 1km to sharp R and then L bend to talaiot in field R with space to pull off. 2 mins, 39.5521, 2.9395 QAH 15 MUSEU ARQUEOLÒGIC & TALAIOT DE SON FORNÉS On the outskirts of the charming old town of Montuïri is a charming museum is based in a restored windmill, providing a rare opportunity to explore inside one of these iconic buildings, a symbol of Mallorca. It is well-curated, with leaflets in different languages, and you can join a tour if you want. There are artefacts from the nearby Talaiotic settlement, so visiting here first is good preparation, although there are boards at the site. The settlement is fairly extensive, with two ancient talaiots, a well and later Iron Age and Roman additions, and usually quiet. Follow Ma-3220 to NE outskirts of ,  Montuïri, and museum entrance and car park is signed R just before the roundabout. Talaiotic settlement is signed R off Ma-3200 just over 3km N from Montuïri (39.5840, 2.9670). 2 mins, 39.5718, 2.9871 Q87£ 16 NECRÒPOLIS DE SON REAL This unique site is one of the most extraordinary ancient cemeteries in the Balearics, dating back 2,500 years. There are over 100 graves, round, square and boat-shaped, that held over 300 bodies; the range of jewellery, utensils, musical instruments and food left as grave goods indicate centuries of use by the elites of different cultures. Right on the coast with fabulous views over the sea, which may have claimed many more tombs – it might once have been connected to the graves on S’Illot des Porros (see entry). One of Mallorca’s two dolmen tombs, which held the dead of a previous millennium, is nearby on the outskirts of C’an Picafort. Head SE on the Ma-12 from C’an Picafort ,  village and Finca entrance is signed L at about 3km. Park at the information centre and follow well-signed path through estate for about 2.5km, staying L at fork at 1.5km. The site is on small headland at end of path. Alternatively walk in from Platja de Son Bauló (see entry),

about 30 mins. Dolmen de Son Bauló de Dalt is at 39.7539, 3.1586. 30 mins, 39.7550, 3.1822 8Qz 17 ES TURASSOT This site is one of the best-preserved settlements in Mallorca and only excavated since 2015. A total of five naviform (boatshaped) buildings, the earliest type on the island, are preserved here. Some of them have olive trees growing in them, but the best three are still up to 3m high, a group in the centre of the complex with south-facing entrances. Hearths and tools have been found in good condition, showing livestock and crop farming in a fertile plain between the two rivers. It’s a lovely, easy stroll from the free parking at the Observatorio Astronomico (which is also worth a visit, but check that it’s open first, +34 608 398607). From the village of Costitx head S on ,  Ma-3121, after 500m take fork L at pink sign for Observatorio. Shortly after turn L at another Observatorio sign and black sign for Es Turassot, then stay left following the signs at fork. Continue 1km to park at Observatorio. Walk down dead end lane and turn L on footpath, after about 200m site is signed R. 5 mins, 39.6408, 2.9511 A7Q8 18 TALAIOT DE BINIFAT The remains of this ancient round tower, about 15m in diameter, still stand up to 4m tall. The low, straight entrance on the western side, framed with larger stones, is intact, but the central pillar is long gone. This was probably part of a settlement – although nothing has been found immediately around it, there are barely visible remains nearby of a ceremonial enclosure with another circular talaiot and a square one. Start as for Es Turassot (see entry) but ,  bear right at final fork. Follow just over 1km and park in layby R. Walk on 150m to sign and gate to climb over wall L and follow short path to talaiot. 5 mins, 39.6396, 2.9380 Q87 19 COVA DEL CAMP DEL BISBE This funerary cave was used for communal burial by some of the earliest settlers on Mallorca, those who built the naviform homes of places like Es Turassot (see entry). Dating back to 1200BC, it has yielded human remains, food offerings and over 100 ivory buttons traded from Africa. A well-cared-for site with information boards, and clearly signed.

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Head E on Ma-3121 out of Sencelles 4oom ,  to roundabout and cave is R. Pull off in little layby and walk in. 2 mins, 39.6493, 2.9058 9Q8 20 S’ILLOT DES PORROS The ‘islet of wild leeks’ is covered in its namesake vegetable and holds ancient secrets you would not imagine looking from the shore; reaching it is an adventure in itself, because you will have to swim. It was used for burials from the 7th century BC, with three large communal graves, built from blocks and carved out of the rock, as well as individual graves. These are more like these at the Necròpolis de Son Real (see entry) on the headland nearby. A later area contains remains of 285 people that could be Phoenician, and there is evidence of burials in Roman and even Medieval times. Park as for Necròpolis de Son Real and ,  follow the trail 2km to the coastline, staying right at the fork. Swim 100m to the island from the shore if conditions are right and your swimming ability is sufficient. 60 mins, 39.7546, 3.1879 Q1A7

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21 TORRENT DE COANEGRA CANYONING Mallorca has some incredible gorges and dry limestone caves where you can crawl and scramble amid spectacular landscapes – we recommend you do this with experienced instructors who can lead you safely through these jumps, climbs and crawls. You don’t need to have done caving or potholing before, as the horizontal cave systems are a perfect introduction to the underground world of adventure caving, far from the big tourist show caves. We recommend Experience Mallorca, ,  Avenida son noguera 7 local 2, Llucmajor, + 34 687 358922, experience-mallorca.com (39.4845, 2.8516). 8 hours, 39.6951, 2.7567 vzw£E

nature & wilderness

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22 PARC NATURAL DE S’ALBUFERA The largest wet grassland and marsh area in the Balearic Islands, this is a paradise for bird watching. Over 10,000 birds spend the winter months here, including ducks, herons, massive flocks of starlings, garganeys, swallows and sometimes cranes. In all, over 300 bird species use the reserve, and the Iberian marsh frog is abundant there too. Sea daffodil, thyme and prickly juniper thrive in the harsh conditions of the dunes and there are over 200 species of fungi. A canal runs through

it and out into the sea with a walkway cycle path beside it. Head N on Ma-12 out of C’an Picafort along ,  the coast just under 4km to parking L at roundabout. Follow trails into park. 2 mins, 39.7950, 3.1039 5D4zQ 23 FINCA PÚBLICA DE SON REAL This ‘possessió’ (old manor house and estate) is a gem, with preserved historical buildings from the manor to workers’ cottages, ecologically managed groves of almonds, figs and carob and native livestock breeds. In the low hills clothed with aleppo pine and holm oak you might see hoopoes, stone-curlews, red-legged partridges, Thekla’s larks, tawny pipits, crossbills and firecrests, and if you walk down over the coastal dunes to the natural beaches, look out for a population of rare Mediterranean turtles. There are four gravelled walking trails in a variety of easy lengths; the longer trails take you towards the coast through trees growing in strange twisted shapes, where the air is full of cicadas and the pungent aroma of thyme. Cyclists are permitted on all but one trail, and there is a fifth one for horses. Information centre open 9a.m.–4p.m. for bike hire and leaflets. There is a museum (paid entry) and parking. Head SE on the Ma-12 from C’an Picafort ,  village and Finca entrance is signed L at about 3km. Park at the Information Centre. 1 min, 39.7368, 3.1822 z4h 24 SA COMUNA DE LLORET Located just outside the little village of Lloret, Sa Comuna is a natural area of forest and garrigue scrubland. One of the oldest communal areas on Mallorca, it dates back to the 12th-century common land of the Manresa farmstead, where livestock was fattened by locals. Clearly marked trails lead through areas with abundant wildlife, from dormice to nightingales (do check for ticks after walking). One path takes you to the generally accepted Centre of Mallorca and a small but well-preserved Bronze Age funerary hypogeum, called Sa Cova d’en Dainat. There are information boards and picnic area with barbecues clearly signposted. Head W out of Lloret de Vistalegre on the ,  Carrer Major, turn L at T junction at end, and park after tennis courts R after 250m. Follow wooded trail 800m to centre of Mallorca (39.6154, 2.9580) and 200m further to tomb (39.6151, 2.9560). 4 hours, 39.6140, 2.9656 zAW9Q34

25 XX 25 ES SALT DES FREU This seasonal waterfall tucked away in a quiet forested area of the Orient valley may be dry in summer but is beautiful after heavy rain, with water plunging over rocks into turquoise pools and streams. There are several trails through the dappled shade of the oak forest to the base of the waterfall, passing other cascades and ancient ruins along the way. The terrain is rocky and mossy with a few fences to climb on some routes, so good shoes are a must, but it is not too difficult. Follow Ma-2100 just over 8km from Bunyola ,  and pull off beside road where trails are signed (39.7329, 2.7427) – best to arrive early, this fills up. Follow track S out of trees between fields about 1km and into forested gorge with well-worn trails along river, and explore. 30 mins, 39.7234, 2.7466 h=3z 26 SA COMUNA DE BUNYOLA The incredible garrigue forest of Sa Comuna de Bunyola, in the heart of the Serra de Tramuntana, is one of the largest on the island. It’s an ideal place for hiking, cycling and climbing, and amid the pine and holm oak you may pass remains of a previous way of life such as silos, cisterns and lime kilns, or see a royal kite, a black vulture or

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XX 28 even the strange, catlike Balearic genet. You could hike to find the hidden Cova de s’Aigua, or take in the spectacular views from the Penyal d’Honor. In the village of Bunyola take Carrer ,  del Garrigo (unsigned, next to playground and opp. car park at 39.6910, 2.7016) and follow road 7km up to car park, with hairpins uphill near start. Once at the top there is a picnic area and trails here to Penyal d’Honor (39.7162, 2.7228) and Cova de s’Aigua (39.7069, 2.7336). Nervous drivers may prefer to park at the start and walk longer trails up (visitbunyola.com/en/sa-comuna but directions are not in English). 2-8 hours, 39.7100, 2.7282 hz34w

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hilltops and hikes 27 CAMÍ DE COANEGRA One of the oldest routes in Mallorca follows the Coanegra river bed through a stunning landscape in the foothills of the Tramuntana mountain range. Hiking here can be very impressive in the winter when the rivers and waterfalls are full. The hike from Santa Maria del Camí to Orient through this hilly, wooded wilderness takes about three and a half hours and passes eco finca Son Roig and Es Salt de Freu waterfall (see entries);

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the cathedral-like Avenc de Son Pou cave is now closed to the public. In the village of Santa Maria del Camí, park ,  at the station on Camí Coanegra (39.6535, 2.7758), and follow road N. When road forks at 3km, take dead-end road L and continue through a gate and onto a trail following the river; Orient is 8km from the fork. 3.5 hours, 39.6826, 2.7626 z3 28 CASTELL D’ALARÓ This ancient honey-coloured rock castle ruin sits high on the Puig d’Alaro. Its origins lost in the mists of time, over a thousand years it has been a refuge for Moors and Christians in turn and then a pilgrimage destination. A steep climb up a winding stone staircase is rewarded with astonishing views of the valley of Orient, the Serra de Tramuntana, the Puig Major and across the plain of Mallorca as far as Palma (you can drive closer for a 15-minute walk, but the road is very poor; we recommend earning the view). According to legend, the witches of the castle cave fly between the two mountains of Alaró on a full moon! There’s also a hostel here with good, cheap accommodation. From Alaro take Ma-2100 NE and turn L ,  signed for castle 500m after edge of town and

R at T junction after 350m. Follow nearly 4km up hairpins to large car park for trail below Es Verger restaurant (39.7292, 2.7886). The trail starts from the car park. 60 mins, 39.7330, 2.7929 Q6z 29 SANTUARI DE CURA & COVA DEL BEAT RAMON LLULL The zig-zagging road up Puig de Randa is also known as the Santuari de Cura climb, because at the top is Mallorca’s first monastery. It was built in the 13th century because hermits and pilgrims gathered around the cave here, where influential philosopher and writer Ramon Llull conceived his writings. The view over the plain from the top of this peak is certainly inspiring. The monastery controls access, and offers a comfortable hostel with a restaurant. From roundabout at N of Llucmajor follow ,  Ma-510 3km N and, turn R at sign for Randa and Cura, onto Ma-5017. Follow pink signs to Santuati de Cura through village and continue on Ma-5018 through hairpins 5km to top. Car park at Santuari, collect keys from the hotel front desk, 10a.m.–2p.m. 2 mins, 39.5274, 2.9261 6q7 30 PUIG DE BONANY For some spectacular views, hike or cycle up from the village of Petra to this hilltop ermita. The first part is gentle, but the second is steeper, and there is no café, so bring plenty of water. For a different kind of excursion you can let a horse do more of the work with NaturaCavall (naturacavall.com) who also arrange bespoke group treks. The nearby town of Vilafranca de Bonany is well worth a visit, famous for its colourful strings of dried vegetables hanging outside the shops and, above all, its tomatoes – the famous tomatigues de ramallet, delicious with bread and olive oil. Park in the village of Petra and follow the ,  pink street signs to Cami de Bonany in SW (39.6083, 3.1101). Follow the road 3.6km to top, or divert on to walking trails at foot of hill. 120 mins, 39.5936, 3.0849 6*z

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slow food 31 SINEU MARKET There are many markets in Mallorca, but our favourite is in the ancient town of Sineu on Wednesdays. The tiny town is overtaken by wonderful stalls selling beautiful home-grown and artisan produce. The olives and cheeses are particularly special, as are the strings of multicoloured chilli peppers. The village

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XX 38 square has cafés and restaurants, so you can sit with your breakfast and watch the stalls set up, then spend the morning sampling local produce. Car park in field on S outskirts of Sineu ,  on market day (39.6405, 3.0132). Walk N into centre of village; market covers several streets. 39.6435, 3.0105 sq 32 SANTA MARIA DEL CAMÍ MARKET This market every Sunday sells beautiful fresh local produce from organic vegetables to artisan cured meats. After shopping, it’s wonderful to just sit in the square with a coffee and watch the bustle. Or you could head over to the neighbouring village of Consell, which hosts a flea market on the same day, to browse for second-hand goods and artisan pieces (39.6634, 2.8048). Parking at Aparcement de Son Gulla ,  in the S (39.6454, 2.7769), Aparcement de s’Escorxador in the centre (39.6475, 2.7761) and the station to the E (39.6537, 2.7760). Short walk from any to the main square. 39.6489, 2.7777 sq

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33 BODEGA RIBAS, CONSELL A family business for over 300 years, this is the oldest bodega on the island. Take a guided tour of the vineyards and small bodega, followed by a traditional meal inside the atmospheric 18th-century family home. Every year 200 volunteers come together for a full moon harvest that finishes with a gourmet feast, and wine enthusiasts from across the world put their names on a waiting list to be part of this tradition. You can also follow a vineyard trail from here. Carrer de Muntanya 2, 07330 Consell, ,  +34 971 622673 39.6676, 2.8144 sa 34 FINCA AUBOCÀSSER An ancient possessió, dating back to 12th-century documents, that has grown figs, carob and grapes over the centuries and now produces top-notch extra virgin olive oil. The tasting tours are well worth the fee. Camí de Son Fangos, s/n, 07500 Manacor, ,  +34 971 100388 39.5272, 3.1489 s

35 RESTAURANTE S’HOSTAL, MONTUÏRI This authentic eatery in the charming sleepy mountain village of Montuïri has been making the traditional bread and tomato dish of pa amb oli for over 150 years. Not a typical tourist pitstop, all the food and prices are exceptional, as is the service. Take some time to explore the streets of this village, perched high on a ridge and surrounded by old stone windmills: there’s a timeless feel, and in August you may catch the spectacular Festival of Sant Bartomeu, centred on a traditional dance to drive away evil, accompanied by Mallorcan bagpipes, flutes and drums. Carrer de Palma, 58, 07230 Montuïri, ,  +34 971 646049 39.5632, 2.9773 s 36 PONDEROSA BEACH, PLAYA DE MURO Beautiful café for a relaxed beach-side lunch in C’an Picafort. The food is outstanding, particularly their paellas and fried squid, and the pistachio dessert is a dream. Book as far ahead as possible, and the staff will do their best to slot you in. Casetes des Capellans 123, 07440 Playa de ,  Muro, +34 971 184118 39.7740, 3.1440 s 37 EL SOL BEACH BAR, SON SERRA Right on one of the most glorious beaches in Mallorca, El Sol is a great place to chill out and enjoy cocktails and fabulous food throughout the day. A meeting place for kite surfers, it often has live music on Sundays. Very popular, so best to book in advance. Puig de Bonany 1, 07459 Son Serra de ,  Marina, +34 971 854029 39.7316, 3.2360 s 38 DAICA, LLUBI A traditional Mallorcan house in the centre of the sleepy rural village of Llubí has been transformed from a grocer’s shop stocked with cold cuts and sausages into a charming boutique hotel with a signature restaurant. Using local ingredients in creative combinations, the beautifully presented food (offered in two set tasting menus) is exceptional, and so is the service and atmosphere. Carrer de la Farinera 7, Carrer Nou 8 ,  (pedestrian access), 07430 Llubí, +34 686 001604 39.7002, 3.0049 s

XX 40 39 ES CELLER DE PETRA A small door in one of Petra’s quiet, narrow streets of honey-coloured buildings leads down stone steps into this restaurant in a cavernous and cool wine cellar. Popular with locals, it serves good-value, fresh and tasty traditional Mallorcan food. There is a little museum that’s definitely worth a visit if you decide to spend some time in this charming village. Carrer de l’Hospital 46, 07520 Petra, ,  +34 971 561056 39.6125, 3.1125 s 40 RESTAURANTE CA N’OMS, PETRA This delightful family-owned restaurant in an old Mallorcan manor house specialises in meat and fish grilled on an open fire. There is an extensive terrace at the front and a charming interior courtyard. Grilled octopus is a real treat! Live music on Friday and Saturday evenings. Carrer Ample 7, 07520 Petra, ,  +34 971 561920 39.6154, 3.1115 41 CELLER SON TOREÓ, SINEU A traditional restaurant just up from the main square in Sineu in a large 14th-century wine cellar with high vaulted ceilings, where

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44 MICELI, SELVA Delightful restaurant offering a unique dining experience tucked away in a side street in the lovely little town of Selva. The chef visits a local market each morning and creates a four- or five-course meal from the products she buys that day. The staff are charming and the kitchen is open plan, so you can see this great team in action. Booking well in advance is essential. Calle Angels 11, 07313 Selva, ,  +34 971 873784 39.7542, 2.9010 s 45 HOSTAL D’ALGAIDA Traditional food with fantastic service in a quaint setting – check out the ladies room! The fact that lots of local people eat there says it all: good service, good ambience, good food. Carretera Palma-Manacor km 21, 07210 ,  Algaida, +34 971 665109 39.5674, 2.8968 s

XX 51 Mallorcan food such as suckling pig is cooked to perfection on an open fire. A perfect place to come and dine on Wednesdays, when a weekly market sprawls joyously through the streets (see entry). Carrer son Torelló 1, 07510 Sineu, ,  +34 971 520138 39.6437, 3.0116 42 RESTAURANT CA’L DIMONI, ALGAIDA Filled with a fascinating collection of demon masks and memorabilia so typical of Mallorcan culture, this popular restaurant offers local food cooked over a huge stove in the centre of the restaurant, with fast and friendly service at very reasonable prices. All the locals, from farmers to lawyers, eat here. The suckling pig is excellent. Carretera Vieja Manacor, km 21, 07210 ,  Algaida, +34 971 665035 39.5647, 2.9007

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43 FORN CA NA BOLLA, MANCOR DE LA VALL This fabulous bakery houses the massive village oven – an old-style community tradition that is now quite rare. They make a delicious selection of breads, cakes and croissants, including pan moreno, the unsalted rye bread typical of the Balearics. Go early, before they sell out. And if you happen to be in Mallorca on the last Friday of November, come to Mancor for the Mushroom Fair! Carrer de Sant Joan 2, 07312 Mancor de la ,  Vall, +34 971 504538 39.7498, 2.8720

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sleep 46 SON SANT ANDREU, PETRA Excellent self-catering agroturismo accommodation in this 350-year-old manor house just outside the little town of Petra. Very peaceful and super clean. Two shared kitchens and a large lounge, swimming pool and sun terrace with stunning panoramic views of the countryside. Bikes can be hired here. Carretera Petra a Felanitx, km 2, 07520 ,  Petra, +34 650 439955 39.5924, 3.1145 g 47 FINCA RAIMS, ALGAIDA An understated door in a quiet street of the rural village of Algaida leads into another world. This 18th-century manor house and former bodega has been converted into a charming boutique hotel with five spacious apartments, named after wine varieties as a reminder of its history. The enchanting garden has palm trees and a swimming pool. Have breakfast on the patio in the sun, or a glass of Mallorcan red wine on your private terrace at night. Carrer de la Ribera 24, 07210 Algaida, ,  +34 971 665157 39.5612, 2.8965 g 48 HOSTATGERIA DEL SANTUARI DE CURA, RANDA Dominating the peak of Puig de Randa, a steep and solitary hill, this impressive former monastery has a hostel with 33 wellequipped rooms and a terrace restaurant

50 SA CASA ROTJA, SINEU A very cosy, rustic agroturismo surrounded by trees at the end of a gravel road near the bustling market town of Sineu. There are several large apartments and spacious shared areas, also a good-sized pool. Carretera Sineu-Muro, km 3.5, 07510 Sineu, ,  +34 673 374253 39.6724, 3.0284 g

52 SON ROIG, SANTA MARÍA Dating back to the 13th century, this was the very first water mill in Mallorca; today it is an eco-paradise guesthouse. Accommodation is simple, delicious food is specially prepared for guests and spending the night in the tree tents with dark sky starry galaxies above is not to be missed. Hidden in a hilly, forested area directly on the route of the Camí de Coanegra (see listing). 635 Camí de Coanegra, 07320 Santa Maria del ,  51 AGROTURISMO SON PENYAFLOR, Camí, +34 6627534901 PEDRA EN SEC 39.7047, 2.7548 gd A wonderful, relaxed finca, in 8 3 a stunning 5 34 mountain location at27 the heart of4the Pedra en Sec hiking route, with unbelievable Port de Pollença 0 39 43 and views. The accommodation is traditional 20 a-2 stylish as well as very clean, M the pool is well maintained, and you canPollença grill and eat beside it or just chill out. 11 1213 -10 10 a 38 40 M 9 Bonaire 14 Camino del Castillo de Alaró, 07340 Alaró, ,  Alcúdia 24 +34 660 757717 31 26 17 Alcanada 39.7209, 2.7952 g 16 3715

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49 REFUGI CAS GARRIGUER DE SON REAL This simple rural cabin is part of the Finca Pública Son Real (see entry). The single-storey building has been renovated and transformed into accommodation for eight, with a bathroom, living room with wood burner and common room with four bunk beds, near Platja de Son Real (see entry). Access is on foot from free parking 1.8km away, but if there are toddlers or people with reduced mobility, you can ask for permission to drive in. 07450 Santa Margalida, +34 971 177652, ,  (Mon–Fri, 10a.m.–2p.m.) 39.7515, 3.1876 g 1 33 25 2 36

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with unbelievable views across the bay of Palma. Serves traditional Mallorcan and typical Mediterranean food. Nearby is the Cova del Beat Ramon Llull (see entry). Puig de Randa, 07629 Randa, ,  +34 971 120260 39.5271, 2.9261 gs

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mallorca east Our perfect weekend , Breakfast high in the Llevant wilderness after sleeping in the Refugio De S’Alzina bothy , Marvel at the outstanding views along mountain goat tracks and spot peregrine falcons, booted eagles and tortoises ,  Kayak the rugged coastline, discovering secret smugglers caves and healing pools , Discover ancient stone age ruins at Ses Païsses, then dine in La Mar de Vins’ delightful courtyard in the old town of Artà , Skinny dip in the wild waves at the deserted beach Cala des Matzoc after a long hike from Cala Torta , Dare to experience the adrenalin-pumping exhilaration of coasteering and cliff-jumping in Cala Ratjada , Cycle through the countryside on the Via Verde and feel the wind in your hair , Climb up high into the rocks to find the secret tidal pools of S’Olla hidden from sight with breath-taking water clarity and beautiful views. ,Experience   an exhilarating night swim while you wait for your supper next to the dock at Sa Cova

The northern part of Llevant is often compared to the Highlands of Scotland for its wide-open spaces, shrubby mountains and crags. This beautiful, undeveloped wilderness known as the Llevant Natural Park is covered in fan palms, holm oak, pine trees and wild grasses and crisscrossed by feral goat tracks and old pathways through forests and along vertiginous cliff tops. Here you can climb to dramatic viewpoints then drop down to hidden coves and remote and secret beaches on the wild north coast, such as Matzoc and Font Celada, which are only accessible on foot or by bike and are therefore clean and unspoilt. A haven for wildlife, booted eagles, peregrine falcons and even osprey can be seen flying high overhead while tortoises, genets, pine martens and Algerian hedgehogs take refuge in the dense scrub and woodland.

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Down among the towns and villages you can cycle, hike or horse ride along the old train track, the Via Verde, from the market town of Artà to Manacor through quaint, rural communities or head to the west coast to dine out on fresh catch of the day along the promenade in the small town of Colònia de Son Pere.

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From there a coastal trail, Avinguda Colon, takes you north with the mountains on one side and the sea on the other to the wild and hidden beaches of Cala d’es Torrent and Platja des Caló. The coastline on the south-east side of the peninsula can be more built up in some areas, but it still contains plenty of hidden treasures if you know where to look, like Cala Petita and Cala Varques where the waters are crystal clear. 5 XX

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beaches & coves - betlem 1 PLATJA DE LA COLÒNIA DE SANT PERE A delightful small sandy beach with a curving breakwater at the north end in the charming little fishing village of Colònia de Sant Pere. It is usually fairly quiet, a gorgeous place for a sunset swim, with several cafes and restaurants nearby to refuel after. Head past the breakwater to choose from the catch of the day at the seafront restaurant Sa Xarxa (+34 971 859281). Walk the other way and you come to a harbour with a tiny lighthouse and several more areas of beach beyond, such as Cala des Port, all the way down to the photogenic shell of a house on the cliff. Follow MA-12 E from Artà 7km and turn R ,  signed Colònia Sant Pere (Ma 3331). Continue on this road around 4km then take signed L onto Carrer Major de la Colònia. Take the sixth R onto Carrer Sant Mateu and follow 350m to car park L at end of village (39.7395, 3.2813). Walk west along seafront to beach. 5 mins, 39.7389, 3.2775 q1 2 PLAYA SA MACADA DE SA TORRE Wild garlic grows along the edge of this lonely sweep of stony bay just outside the fishing village of Colònia de Sant Pere.

Mostly visited by locals at the weekends and in the evenings, it can feel incredibly quiet and remote much of the time, with farmland and a nature reserve stretching out from the quiet road behind it. On windy days it’s great for surfing. Park as for Platja de la Colònia de Sant ,  Pere (see entry) but walk about 160m east to descend to beach past headland. 5 mins, 39.7400, 3.2858 AQ3 CALO DELS ERMITANS A little beach tucked between interestingly shaped rock shelves interspersed beside a flat area of farmland and vineyards – you might sample local wine and delicious tapas at the nearby Bodega Conde de Suyrot (+34 871 870472). The beach’s name has a more sober origin: it was named after the hermits lived in the Ermita de Betlem (see entry) high up on the hill behind, who frequented the beach. Follow MA-12 E from Artà 7km and turn R ,  signed Colònia Sant Pere (Ma 3331). Continue on this road around 5.3km, then turn L signed Cala los camps. At the end of this road turn L and immediately pull off L. Cross the road and follow the track down to shore. 10 mins, 39.7467, 3.2937 zhq

4 PLAYA CALA CAMPS VELLS A small, shady undeveloped cove halfway between Colònia de Sant Pere and Betlem, where you can swim out to the sheer, vertical rock face on one side of the bay and explore strange doorways cut into the rock by fishermen in days gone by; you may spot cormorants. The quiet beach is pebbly with small areas of sand, and very sheltered, with calm and clean water. It’s also worth exploring the coastal footpath eastwards to the Dolmen de s’Aigua Dolça (see entry) with the interesting rocky shelves of Aigua Dolça beach below it. Drive as for Calo dels Ermitans (see entry) ,  but turn R along coast road at end for 700m and park L just before beach. 10 mins, 39.7479, 3.3013 q-A 5 PLATJA DE BETLEM This tranquil, pebbly beach on the outskirts of Betlem village nestles under dramatic, overhanging cliffs. You can walk just up from the beach and eat at the Restaurante Casablanca (see entry) or south-east along the coast to the other side of the village to Cala Fonda, another quiet and charming little stony bay where you can hire canoes to explore this gorgeous coastline by sea. This

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8 XX is also the start of the coastal path Avinguda Colon (see listing). Follow MA-12 from Artà W for 7km to turn ,  R signed Colònia Sant Pere (Ma 3331), and continue on this road 8.5km, keeping straight through Betlem to the E side, where the road Avinguda Colon becomes a dirt track. Park on R here, walk back to road downhill signed Restaurante Casablanca, past restaurant next R is path to beach. 5 mins, 39.7562, 3.3205 -2qs 6 CALA NA CLARA This small, rocky beach has magical westerly light and views at sunset. On a tree- and shrub-lined stretch of coastline, it is reached by quite a scramble down a rocky path that is steep in places and not for the fainthearted! There are good snorkelling spots with sand beneath the crystal-clear turquoise water, although not much sand on the beach itself. A little further north along the coastal path and up on the cliffs is the stunning viewpoint of Mirador de Na Clara; one of Mallorca’s darker night places, it’s fabulous for stargazing. Park as for Platja de Betlem and follow ,  Avinguda Colon as it becomes a trail. Follow this for around 250m to a smaller path L,

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follow this towards the water. It seems as if you will walk over the cliff, but the trail takes a sharp inland turn and follows the cliff down to the shore. 15 mins, 39.7578, 3.3256 z-v0 7 CALA D’ES TORRENT This gorgeous, wild beach is a remote and hidden paradise. The path is not obvious, and so effective at keeping the beach hidden that the rocky shore is not just uncrowded but usually completely empty. Named after the torrent (river) that once ran down from the mountains, now within the Parc Natural de la Península de Llevant (see entry) where if you’re lucky you might find orchids amongst the virgin scrub and pine trees. Park as for Platja de Betlem (see entry) and ,  follow Avinguda Colon E as it becomes a trail. Follow this about 3km, past Cala Na Clara (see entry), out to promontory and down. 40 mins, 39.7652, 3.3324 h-vAz 8 PLATJA DES CALÓ One of Mallorca’s hidden gems, this remote beach is flanked by pine trees and tucked into the curve of a promontory, so it is south-facing with stunning turquoise water. Reached at the end of a scenic hike, this is

XX 10 about as far north as you can safely go on this peninsula; there are a couple of tiny coves to explore on the northern side of the promontory, but after that sheer cliffs rise up from the sea. Park as for Platja de Betlem (see entry) ,  and follow Avinguda Colon E as it becomes a trail. Follow this about 1.5km, past Cala Na Clara and Cala d’es Torrent (see entries), but continue walking on the coastal trail. 90 mins, 39.7746, 3.3335 h-z

llevant coast 9 CALA ESTRETA Literally named ‘narrow cove’, this rocky, hidden inlet feels like a natural swimming pool, with beautiful still waters that shine deep turquoise in the sunlight. No amenities anywhere nearby so bring all you need for a visit here. The cove lies at the end of a dirt track, best in an offroad vehicle but possible in regular cars if taken carefully to avoid the biggest potholes. (Do not confuse this with the equally lovely cove of the same name on the south-east coast.) From E side of Artà below hilltop ,  fortress, take Carrer de s’Abeurador

XX 9 NE almost 9km, following signs for Cala Mitjana and avoiding R fork for Cala Torta (see entry). Surface deteriorates abruptly at a fork with trees. The potholed dirt road is a circular route to both Cala Estreta 1.5km down L fork and Cala Mitjana (see entry) down R fork. Some may prefer to park here and walk final stretch; those braving the drive can park at end, where road bends R around headland, and path down to beach is clear. If walking down L fork, take narrow sandy footpath L after 1.2km for shorter route to back of cove. 5 mins, 39.7543, 3.4116 AvH1-0

10 CALA MITJANA O SA DUAIA Secluded and often quiet to the point of being lonely, this sandy virgin cove is hidden away amongst the trees and hills of the exhilaratingly wild north-eastern coast of the Llevant peninsula. There can be mounds of posidonia on the sandy beach due to its wild, untended status. It lies at the end of a dirt track, best in an off-road vehicle. Drive as for Cala Estreta (see entry) to ,  fork at end of good rood surface. Some may prefer to park here and walk final 1.2km down R fork to beach; for those braving the drive

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12 XX the L fork is in better condition, but continue around end of headland to park. 15 mins, 39.7518, 3.4136 AvH1z-0 11 CALA DES MATZOC This breathtakingly beautiful, remote cove on the unspoilt coastline of the Llevant can only be reached on foot along a dramatic stretch of coastal path. It is part of the natural park, so the seaweed is left in its natural state on the bright white sand. Wonderful views include the lookout tower Torre d’Aubarca (see listings) to the north. Park as for Cala Estreta (see entry), and ,  from the N side of cove follow coastal path over 1km right around headland, passing very close to steep drop-offs at times. 30 mins, 39.7591, 3.4041 AvH1z-0

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12 SA FONT CELADA Set at the outlet of the Torrent des Porrassar, this rugged north-facing cove has absolutely magnificent views north-west to the cliffs of Cap Farrutx, the most northerly point of the peninsula. One of Mallorca’s most secret beaches, it feels like the middle of nowhere, and retains its secret status thanks to the long, rough and unshaded hiking trail in, passing the natural stone bridge of Es Seulonar. Walk west

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from the beach and you’ll soon find yourself on S’Arenalet d’Aubarca, another stunning, remote strand on the edge of the Parc Natural de la Península de Llevant (see entry). Park as for Cala Estreta (see entry) and walk ,  N on coastal path about 3.5km past Cala Matzoc (see entry), Es Seulonar (39.7643, 3.3973) and the rocky coastal stretch of Na Balladora. 60 mins, 39.7636, 3.3846 AvH1z-0 13 CALA TORTA This remote sandy cove at the outlet of Torrent de Sa Font des Pí is an idyllic place. With crystal water and plenty of fish to see – sometimes even an octopus – it’s ideal for snorkelling. The tricky, bumpy access road deters many and keeps it fairly quiet. Take everything you need: the beach bar that was once here is gone, so there is nothing now but the soft white sand, the blue water of the Mediterranean and the wild and wonderful scenery. From E side of Artà below hilltop fortress, ,  take Carrer de s’A beurador out NE for 8.5km, then take R fork for Cala Torta, follow bumpy dirt road 1km and park R (39.7478, 3.4133); road further on is closed. Walk 500m to shore. Alternatively, walk in SE from nearby Cala Mitjana o sa Duaia or NW

XX 15 from slightly more distant Cala Mesquida (see entries). 10 mins, 39.7500, 3.4178 h-

cala ratjada coast 14 CALA MESQUIDA On windy days, huge, exciting waves of turquoise brilliance come crashing onto the wide north-facing shore here. The main beach is a sweeping triangle of gorgeous white sand and can get busy. A large area of protected dunes stretches east, crossed by zig-zagging wooden boardwalks over to the rocks above the less frequented end of the beach, where there is a Spanish Civil War redoubt and a path uphill to Talaia de Son Jaumell (see entry). Lovely area for winter hiking. From MA-15 ring road around N of ,  Capdepera village take signed exit from the W roundabout. Follow 5km, into Cala Mesquida village, to car park L at end. Follow Playa sign opp from zebra crossing down to beach. 5 mins, 39.7430, 3.4369 qk15 CALA AGULLA This long stretch of bright white sand to the north of Cala Ratjada is a popular beach with

facilities and concessions and can get very busy in high season. But the wild beauty of sand dunes, pine trees and desert plants make it worth coming early in the morning and hiking along to the far north end which is quieter and is the start point of a wonderful hiking trail, or better still come in winter and have the entire beach to yourself! Signed from middle of MA-15 ring road ,  around N of Capdepera village, between the two roundabouts. Follow 1.5km and turn L opp riding school to paid car park at end. Follow trails through pine forest to beach. 5 mins, 39.7221, 3.4525 qk£

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16 PLATJA DE SES CAVASSES A wonderful wild and rocky bay sheltering behind the long, narrow promontory of Punta des Gulló, which extends into the sea like a finger separating it from Cala Agulla (see entry). Lovely carved stone steps take you down to the perfectly clear water, and there are fabulous caves to swim through if you scramble north along the rocks. Walking further along the coast to the north you will come across Cala de na Llòbriga, another small and hidden stony bay. Park as for Cala Agulla, and walk to far N ,  end along shore or trail in woods from car

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19 XX park. At N end join coastal trail for 200m, then look for hidden R into the trees to N side of cove. 15 mins, 39.7274, 3.4518 h9117 COVA DE NA XORIGUER This cove is a well-kept secret. Most people follow the path from Cala Agulla (see entry) overland through the woods to the popular beach of Cala Mesquida (see entry) missing the little wooden sign directing you along the coast to an adorable little rocky beach with its own cave, perfect for picnics on sunny days. Park as for Cala Agulla and from N end of ,  beach follow path Camì de Coll de Marina N behind white cottage, through a gate and up track. After approx five minutes take small path R with low wooden marker post signed Cala Llòbriga. This leads up a steep coastal track in a deep pine forest and then down until you see the bay and can scramble down to the cove. Approx 2km hilly walk. 45 mins, 39.7310, 3.4543 zh-1

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18 PLATJA DE CALA GAT A leisurely stroll around the coast from the harbour resort of Cala Ratjada on a well-maintained coastal path brings you to this lovely little sandy beach. Named for

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the many stray cats that linger here, this bay is great for snorkelling and swimming and has a good bar. On your way back, stop at the harbour for the best homemade ice cream in Mallorca at Gelateria Des Port (see entry). Park in Cala Ratjada; free parking on many ,  streets or a small car park at Carrer d’Isaac Peral and Carrer de Can Melis (39.7122, 3.4646). Walk south to seafront, turn L and follow coastal promenade E 500m to beach. 15 mins, 39.7130, 3.4700 qzk 19 SA COVA This little gem of a cove, with stone steps to the beach and tidal pools surrounded by pine trees and striated rock, is a hidden haven close to nearby tourist destinations. Just a short walk overland from Platja de Cala Gat (see entry); if you want to explore further, walk on a little way round the rocky coast to reach Punta de Cala Gat, a small south-facing rocky headland and viewpoint to the islet of Faralló de Cala Gat. Park and walk to Platja de Cala Gat, then ,  follow steps up from E side of beach, over headland between houses, and back down to next cove. 10 mins, 39.7124, 3.4709 Az-

20 XX 20 CALA LLITERAS This postage-stamp of a beach below a cliff and coastal walkway is urban and busy, but it is the home of Mero dive school, where you can sign up for diving trips across the area. Also, underwater lights come on at night, so you can climb down one of the ladders and snorkel among the abundant fish with darkness above and the lights showing the way below. Jump off the rocks and swim out to the rock, or have a drink at Sa Cova bar right on the shore. Signed from middle of MA-15 ring road ,  around N of Capdepera village, between the two roundabouts. Follow this road just over 2km into town, past high-fenced tennis club L, then take next R onto Carrer S’Entrador. Follow this one-way road over one crossroads, turn L at next crossroads, signed for beach. Park at end or on street as close as you can; walk down stone steps to the shore. Dive school is next to bar (mero-diving.com, +34 689 448308). 1 min, 39.7201, 3.4615 q-`

secret pools & caves 21 CALA FONT DE SA CALA II This quiet little cove is tucked away on the outskirts of a residential area. If you head

north from here along the rocks, passing some great tidal pools along the way, you can find a large cave. Climb a little way through a small tunnel inside to find an underground lake; very much hidden away and unknown, this is not on any maps. Follow Carrer des Port, becoming Ma-4043, ,  from S of Capdepera 2.3km into Font de sa Cala, turn left at the sign for N’Alardern and pull over to parking spaces R after 300m. Walk down path beyond bollards to beach. For cave, clamber E and N along rocks: this is slow and arduous as you must climb up and over large boulders. Keep an eye out on L after about 300m. Climb up and in, being very careful on entry and inside. 20 mins, 39.6839, 3.4547 AUvw9E 22 SIMONETA SEA POOLS There are two ways to access these lovely tidal pools with a reputation for healing. The first way is to check into the luxury hotel, Can Simoneta (see entry): originally the residence of a 19th-century monk who was sent for a saltwater cure here, it is perched high on the cliffs above and has private access down steep winding steps to the pools. The second and cheaper option is by sea kayaking along several

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XX 23 caves on your way from Cala Ratjada to Canyamel, where you can stop for a rest and a snack at the beach bar before the final stretch. Hire a kayak at Sea Safari Mallorca ,  (seasafari-mallorca.com, +34 634 335107) and make your way along the coast for about 3 miles to Canyamel; if you have your own paddleboard or kayak you could start here. Continue about 300m along the bay to the pools. You could try and swim from Canyamel, but will need to assess conditions carefully on the day. 60 mins, 39.6519, 3.4376 E98HU 23 S’OLLA ROCK POOLS North of Cala Ratjada these ethereal turquoise pools high up on a cliff appear in photographs and tantalising short videos, but are not on any maps. We can understand why people want to keep such a magical place secret. You cannot see the pools most of the time that you are approaching them, and the final stretch is a tricky scramble, but the destination is totally worth it. Paradise! Head to NE outskirts of Cala Ratjada, ,  Carrer de l’Olla. Park where road bends L at end into dead-end (pools can be seen from this high up). Follow track S, curving around

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bay below and stay high once on far side to pools at the far tip of bay. There is no path; tread carefully and be sure you can get back the way you came. 20 mins, 39.7201, 3.4747 UvHW 24 CALA RATJADA SEA CAVE Just off the walkway from Cala Lliteras to Cala Agulla (see entries) lies a little-known sea cave and large pool. Neither is on a map, but both are great to explore and discover. The cave has a small entrance and opens up into a large cavern, which you can also peer down into from above. The saltwater pool is also wonderful for a dip, especially on a windy day when the water is a bit rough. Walk W from Cala Lliteras, or E from Cala ,  Agulla on paved walkway. Look out for a little islet known as the burger due to its shape; the sea cave lies facing this. It is easier to see it from the rocks on the shore than from the sea as the entrance is quite small. Pool at 39.7206, 3.4583. 5 mins, 39.7209, 3.4590 9Ew

tiny coves - canyamel 25 CALA ROTJA The two small beaches of this bay are uncrowded and tranquil and have very

clear water, ideal for snorkelling. The rocky shore and the headland between them are lined with shady trees and bushes, and Restaurante Cala Rotja (+34 871 811519) is a brilliant chiringuito nearby overlooking the bay. A short coastal walk north through the dense pines rewards the explorer with another little hidden gem of a cove called Cala Auberdans (see entry). From Capdepera head SW on MA-4040 ,  about 3.5km to roundabout, then head L signed Canyamel on Ma 4042. After 3.5km, at next large roundabout, turn R signed Restaurante Cala Rotja and follow to shore, turning L where road splits. Park on street outside restaurant and walk down path next to it to N beach; clear path over headland to S beach. 5 mins, 39.6464, 3.4369 q26 CALA AUBERDANS This beautiful little tree-shaded beach, also known as Cala Alberdans or Cova dels Alberdans, is tucked away at the apex of a small, v-shaped inlet. Surrounded by a thick pine forest, it’s a short walk from Cala Rotja (see entry). There is great snorkelling around the rocks from here; the whole area south to Cap des Pinar is also excellent for diving and also cave diving for the advanced, with three tunnels (Cala Roja), a submarine cave 7m down (Punta des Pi) or the 20m deep Cova del Congre (Cap des Pinar). Park as for Cala Rotja and walk N along the ,  coast about 200m. 15 mins, 39.6478, 3.4365 E-

tiny coves - porto cristo 27 CALA MORLANDA This little gem of a rocky cove is tucked away below cute cottages, with stone steps down from the road to a flat rock platform which is ideal for sunbathing, and a cave area that provides great shade. The clear turquoise water is excellent for snorkelling and diving, and locals gather to jump or dive into deep water off the clifftop on the headland to the left. If you want a quieter beach, tucked into the opposite end of the bay is Caló d’en Rafalino (see listing). From Porto Cristo head N on Ma-4023 ,  about 2km and turn R signed Cala Morlanda/ S’Illot. Follow 1.4km and just before dead end turn L on Anguda del Llop and park R (39.5576, 3.3691). Follow dead-end down to the coast and walk N along coastal trail or road about 150m. 5 mins, 39.5577, 3.3708 qz-

24 XX 28 CALÓ D’EN RAFALINO The tiny, rocky cove of Caló d’en Rafalino is the south-western and quieter corner of Cala Morlanda (see entry). The beach is only about 7m top to bottom, made up of rock and pebbles with a little sand, with surrounding rocks providing shade in some places and jumps straight into deep water in others. The pure, clear water makes this a particularly lovely spot for snorkellers and divers, and it is also popular with nudists. The wider bay is sheltered by Cape Punta Rasa to the south and backed by the undeveloped scrub and woodland of Sa Gruta, and there is even an amazing cave nearby to explore (see La Cueva de Lily entry). Park as for Cala Morlanda and walk S on ,  coastal trail 300m or so to beach. 7 mins, 39.5562, 3.3668 .h-1z 29 CALA PETITA Cala Petita is, as its name suggests, quite small. A narrow, secluded cove curves away from the open sea to a beach of sand, rocks and pebbles bordered by scrubland. Very sheltered, it is popular with nudists, and the waters are ideal for snorkelling, with a variety of fish and even octopus. Swimming around the peninsula towards Porto Cristo you can

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XX 30 find caves such as Cova de Fumassos and Cova des Tabac within 200m of the inlet. If you work up an appetite, the rustic restaurant Es Turó de ses Alzines (+34 971 822814) serves authentic traditional food nearby. Entering Porto Cristo from E on Ma-4023, go ,  over roundabout to second exit signed for town centre (Carretera De Son Servera) then after 240m turn left onto Carrer del Mitjà de Mar, which becomes Avinguda Cala Petita and has large parking area L at edge of town (39.5453, 3.3444). Walk straight on along path to L of the recycling bins for 600m then fork R towards the sea and after 300m follow the trail around to the shore. Alternatively walk S for 2km from Caló d’en Rafalino (see entry). 15 mins, 39.5472, 3.3551 hzq-

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nature & wilderness 30 PARC NATURAL DE LA PENÍNSULA DE LLEVANT This protected area of outstanding wild beauty and diverse wildlife stretches from Cap Ferrutx in the north to the Ermita de Betlam (see entry) in the south. A highland landscape, it includes much of the Muntanyes d’Artà range as well as the highest peak of the Serres de Llevant, the towering Puig Morei

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(564m). In the pristine wilderness you might spot everything from birds of prey, tortoises and beautiful genet cats to orchids amongst the virgin scrub and pine trees. You can follow 13 short suggested walk routes, or combine them, and there are three shelters for those who would like to explore for a few days. The little park office at S’Alqueria Vella de ,  Baix is a good starting point, with parking on site. Take Ma-333 from NE of Artà towards Ermita de Betlem for 5km and then take fork R signed Parc natural to car park at end. 4 hours, 39.7363, 3.3348 64zh 31 PUNTA DE N’AMER This 200-hectare nature reserve is on a headland that juts out from the east coast of Mallorca like a thumb hoping to hitch a ride. An oasis of peace beyond the high-rise apartments and hotels along the coast, it is rich in local plants from regenerating pine and scrub to sprawling sand dunes hosting sea lilies, and rocky areas where orchids can be found. All this provides perfect habitats for many species of birds from larks and warblers to curlew and shearwaters. In the middle of the headland is the Castell de n’Amer, a 17thcentury watchtower with panoramic views from the top and a lovely relaxed little café,

Bar es Castell. Quarrying on the southern side has left interesting pools and ledges to swim off, wonderful at sunrise. From roundabout near beach at S end of ,  Cala Millor resort, take exit signed Es Castell next to the Bahia Grande hotel (Carrer Castell) and park at end. Follow the footpath; 1.4km to tower, bearing L at fork. 30 mins, 39.5801, 3.4036 4z1

historic & hidden 32 SES PAÏSSES This archaeological site on a low hill south of Artà is one of the largest, most important and best-preserved talaiotic sites in the Balearics. The oldest parts were built about 1000BC, the rest over a few centuries, near a confluence of two rivers that would have provided water. Largely overgrown with holm oak, it’s difficult to get an idea of this fascinating settlement as a whole, but it’s well worth going to have a look. There is a well-marked trail that takes you around the whole site, over 10,000 square metres, and a small entry charge. Signed from roundabout on Ma-15 at S of ,  Artà Païsses. Road soon becomes smaller; entrance through stone gates R after 450m, small parking area. 3 mins, 39.6872, 3.3552 Q73 33 ERMITA DE BETLEM This serene hilltop hermitage offers fantastic views of the Bay of Alcúdia and has orchards and an ancient water-mill that allowed the monks to live self-sufficiently. Founded in 1805, the monastery was in use until 2010, when the last of the monks from the San Pablo San Antonio order went into retirement. Don’t miss a small path just past the entrance which leads down the hillside to a sacred drinking fountain. Take Ma-333 from NE of Artà signed Ermita de ,  Betlem for almost 9km to parking by gates at end. 3 mins, 39.7373, 3.3113 8Qz 34 DOLMEN DE S’AIGUA DOLÇA This megalithic site would be easy to miss but is an important early tomb, one of only two on the island; the other is the Dolmen de Son Bauló de Dalt near the Necròpolis de Son Real (see Mallorca Central). Dating back to 1750BC, the dolmen chamber containing the remains of some 20 people with items of jewellery and ceramic arrowheads was found intact inside the almost 7m wide stone circle, which was the kerb of the long-gone burial mound. Follow Ma-12 E from Artà 7km and turn R , 

XX 35 signed Colònia Sant Pere (Ma 3331). Continue on this road around 5.3km, then turn L signed Cala los Camps. At end turn R along coast road and park L at end just before beach Playa Cala Camps Vells (see entry). Follow trail behind beach through forest and then L down to shore. 15 mins, 39.7500, 3.3033 Q8zA 35 LA CUEVA DE LILY My daughter discovered this cave on a hike through some scrubland, and as it isn’t marked on any maps we called it after her. Partially hidden from view by bushes, with little steps down, it opens out into a huge cavern where the sea washes in and out. We didn’t have head torches to explore in the water; there may be a way to swim through the cave out to the sea beyond. We don’t know the history of this place but guessed it was used by smugglers at one time. From Porto Cristo head N on Ma-4023 about ,  2km and turn R signed Cala Morlanda/S’Illot. Follow 1.4km and just before dead end turn L on Anguda del Llop and park R (39.5576, 3.3691). Follow dead-end down to the coast and walk S dir Caló d’en Rafalino (see entry). Look out for cave R in bushes at about 120m; you will only see start of steps from path. 5 mins, 39.5567, 3.3681 A9Q

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37 PUIG DE FERRUTX The views from the top of this strikingly shaped mountain are spectacular; you can see the whole sweep of the Bay of Alcúdia and more than half the island. At 523m, it is the second highest mountain of the Serres de Llevant, surpassed only by the less distinctive Puig Morei, but the route up is not too taxing because you can start from the Ermita de Betlem (see entry) which is more than halfway as high. Proper hiking shoes are essential. Take Ma-333 from NE of Artà signed Ermita ,  de Betlem for almost 9km to parking by gates at end. Hike SW about 6½ miles following trail, broadly sticking to contour lines between lower peaks. 4 hours, 39.7178, 3.2861 6Eh

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hilltops, hikes & adventure 36 TORRE D’AUBARCA This lookout tower built in 1751 is perched dramatically, almost precariously, on the highest point at the far north of the peninsula, a headland overlooking the remote beach of Cala Matzoc (see entry). You can climb two flights to the top where there are the remains of a cannon and the sea views are absolutely glorious. It’s quite dark inside so watch your step, and enjoy the weird acoustics! From E side of Artà below hilltop ,  fortress, take Carrer de s’Abeurador NE for almost 9km, following signs for Cala Mitjana and avoiding R fork for Cala Torta (see entry). Surface deteriorates abruptly at a fork with trees. The potholed dirt road is a circular route to Cala Estreta and Cala Mitjana (see entries). Some may prefer to park here and walk 1.5km to coast; those braving the drive (L fork is slightly better) can park at end. If walking L fork, take narrow sandy footpath L after 1.2km. Walk N along coast past several coves, over 1.5km from Cala Estreta, uphill at end. 45–60 mins, 39.7629, 3.4033 QHWA7

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38 TALAIA DE SON JAUMELL Only about half of this 16th-century watchtower is left atop the crest of this coastal ridge. Although the ruins are undeniably photogenic, this is more about the climb and the panoramic vista. Well worth the effort for the views of Cala Agulla on one side and Cala Mesquida (see entries) on the other. The more interesting approach is from Cala Agulla, a continually steep and winding adventure of loose shingle and rock hopping until it plateaus on the ridge about 15 minutes from the top. The ascent from Cala Mesquida is more gentle, until it becomes a short climb up a steep gulley near the summit. Cala Agulla is signed from middle of ,  Ma-15 ring road around N of Capdepera village, between the two roundabouts. Follow 1.5km and turn L opp riding school to paid car park at end. Follow trail from N end of beach (39.7253, 3.4518) through forest and up. Cala Mesquida is signed from Ma-15 N of Capdepera at W roundabout. Follow 5km into village and to car park L at end. Follow Playa sign opp from zebra crossing down to beach and start ascent via boardwalk. 45–60 mins, 39.7377, 3.4518 6EQ

trails on bike or foot 39 ARTÀ TO MANACOR VIA VERDA This gravel path following the old railway line through the unspoilt north-eastern corner of Mallorca can be travelled on foot, by bike or on horseback. Thousands of new trees and shrubs such as pine, holm oak, tamarind and mulberry have been planted

XX 41 along the 18-mile route, with information boards to help identify local flora and fauna. There are six rest areas along the way with picnic tables and bicycle racks (but no toilet facilities), and restored original railway station buildings in Sant Llorenç, Son Servera and Son Carrió – where it’s worth stopping to see the railway museum or refuel at the friendly bar C’as Patró near the church. Bike hire and route maps available at La Bicicletta café near the old station in Artà, the start of the Via Verde. Hire a bike at La Bicicletta, Calle Ciutat ,  2, 07570 Artà, +34 626 943813 (39.6935, 3.3501) and head S about 300m, first pedestrianised, then with traffic, to turn L at roundabout, with disused station and start of Via Verda just ahead on R. 4–8 hours, 39.6909, 3.3497 czqA 40 AVINGUDA COLON TRAIL Hike north on this trail and you enter an unspoilt wilderness flanked by mountains on one side and the sea on the other. First, you pass beaches, from Cala na Clara with its stunning viewpoint at the start to remote Cala d’Es Torrent (see entries). After that

the path disappears into dense forest for a stretch, only to open out onto an sweeping landscape of wild scrubland. It leads eventually to a low, flat headland with Platja des Caló (see entry) nestled below its south face. Follow Ma-12 from Artà W for 7km to turn ,  R signed Colònia Sant Pere (Ma 3331), and continue on this road 8.5km, keeping straight through Betlem to the E side, where the road Avinguda Colon becomes a dirt track. Park on R here and follow track N. 4 hours, 39.7564, 3.3235 6h1z 41 COASTEERING CALA RATJADA The rugged coastline near Cala Ratjada is one of the dramatic locations favoured for a day of coasteering. This adrenalinpumping way of enjoying the wilder places is best undertaken with the guidance of local professionals, as it combines swimming, abseiling or zip lining, climbing, deep water soloing, rock scrambling and cliff-jumping. Contact Experience Mallorca, Avenida ,  son noguera 7 local 2, Llucmajor, + 34 687 358922, experience-mallorca.com (39.4845, 2.8516). 4–8 hours, 39.7065, 3.4609 ETW1

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eat 42 FINCA SA DUAIA DE DALT Situated in what feels like the middle of nowhere in the Parc Natural de la Península de Llevant (see entry) with incredible views across the mountains, this unique place conjures up great food for weary hikers. It also has very simple accommodation, and breakfast with the sunrise on the glorious terrace by the pool is like a dream. (Some signs on approach say ‘Castillio’ rather than ‘Finca’, but mean the same place.) Carretera Artà–Cala Torta km 6, 07570 ,  Artà, +34 658 958890 39.7248, 3.3848 sg

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43 QUINCE, PORTO CRISTO A beautifully restored traditional Mallorcan home in the charming seaside town of Porto Cristo houses a new restaurant called Quince which uses all fresh and local ingredients, including fish caught that day, and makes desserts using recipes passed down from the chef’s grandmother. A bright, lively restaurant with an ‘industrial cantina’ feel and excellent views across the port. Suitable for vegetarians, vegans and gluten-free. Carrer Veri 1, 07680 Porto Cristo, ,  +34 971 821830 39.5390, 3.3332 s

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44 SA COVA, CALA RATJADA Lively bar, café, and bistro on tiny Cala Lliteras cove (see entry) and next door to Mero’s dive school. Perfect for a relaxed brunch overlooking the water, and there are often live bands in the evenings, with lights under the water. Very popular with locals, and entirely plastic-free. Cala Lliteras, s/n, 07590 Cala Ratjada, ,  +34 871 902407 39.7202, 3.4616 s

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45 LA MAR DE VINS, ARTÀ This little gem doesn’t look like much from the outside but when you enter the bright blue doors you go along a corridor past an open kitchen where you see fresh fish being grilled and many vegetarian and vegan delights being prepared from local, organic and even home-grown produce. Then you come into a magical courtyard that is just delightful, and the service could not be more helpful. Carrer d’A ntonio Blanes 34, 07570 Artà, ,  +34 971 59 64 10 39.6936, 3.3503 s

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46 CAFÉ PARISIEN, ARTÀ Charming Bohemian café in Artà with a beautiful vine-shaded courtyard garden and an international menu for lunch and dinners. Carrer de Ciutat, 18, 07570 Artà, ,  +34 971 835440 39.6927, 3.3495 s 47 RESTAURANTE CASABLANCA, BETLEM Delicious food close to the beach in Betlem. Especially recommended for seafood and fish lovers. The terrace has breezy white shade sails, inside is air-conditioned, great for cooling off after a long hike. Polígon Artà, s/n, 07579 Betlem, ,  +34 971 58 94 04 39.7555, 3.3203 s 48 GELATERIA DES PORT Quite simply, some of the best homemade ice creams on the island. Perfectly placed on the harbour to enjoy while you sit and watch the world go by. Carrer Ingeniero Gabriel Roca 10, 07590 ,  Cala Ratjada, +34 630 152582 39.7116, 3.4640

sleep 49 REFUGIO DE S’ALZINA This off-grid mountain refuge, one of three in the Parc Natural de la Península de Llevant (see entry), is near the coast in a forested area and only accessible via a long walk. It’s a traditional old stone house surrounded by olive, lemon and carob trees, with wild goats roaming the hillside nearby. You have to book the whole house, and it’s a great place for a group to unwind together. There are five double rooms with bathrooms and it is fully equipped, but the water is not for drinking and you have to carry in your supplies. One for the fit! To book any of the refuges call +34 971 ,  177652 (10a.m.–2p.m. Mon–Fri) or search the name online to find online booking form . The others are the Refugí dels Oguers and the Refugio de s’A renalet. Walk-in starts from the information centre car park. 39.7471, 3.3846 g 50 FINCA SON PUÇA Off-grid finca deep inside the Parc Natural de la Península de Llevant (see entry). Everything is run on solar power, including pumping up the water from an underground reservoir. A little slice of paradise where you can truly unwind and melt into nature. The self-catering studios are stylishly simple and there are lots of tucked away seating areas.

The outdoor kitchen is a natural gathering point, and the forest yoga platform is idyllic. Climb the old stone steps to the hilltop pool for a dip with a stunning mountain view and at night go back up there to lie in awe beneath a magnificently starry dark sky. Two-hour hike from here to the remote and wonderful Platja de Sa Font Celada (see listing). 13 Polígono 19 , Parcela 64 Finca Son ,  11 12Puça 10 PasBonaire ArtàMal 07570, +34 617 107532 9 14 39.7340, 3.3611 g 24 Alcúdia 26 51 CAN SIMONETA,17 CANYAMEL Alcanada 16 Secluded and37 luxurious period, clifftop hotel 15 with private steps to a cove with healing saltwater pools in the rock (see SImoneta Sea Pools). There is also a large swimming Platjaand de Muro pool spa and a great restaurant too.

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52 JARDÍ D’ARTÀ Delightful and very stylish boutique hotel with just nine rooms and three suites, in a 19th-century house on the edge of the historic town of Artà. Tranquil courtyard garden with a small pool, restaurant and spa. Carrer de s’A beurador 21, 07570 Artàà, ,  +34 971 835230 39.6951, 3.3537 gs

54 HOTEL MAMBOO, CALA RATJADA A funky little hotel, recently refurbished, in a little street near the harbour. There is a roof terrace and pool – with solar and heat-pump heating – and beautiful fresh breakfasts. Carrer des Moll 12, 07590 Cala Ratjada, ,  +34 871 200373 39.7125, 3.46386 g

53 FINCA SA COVA VELLA, MANACOR This Arab farmhouse, which dates back to 1239, is still a working farm but also runs as

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an agroturismo with three apartments, set in glorious seclusion at the end of a country road. Aside from an outdoor swimming pool with outstanding views, it also hosts a ‘hidden’ cave that gives the property its name! Carretera Manacor a Colònia St. Pere, km 3, ,  07500 Manacor, +34 651 853617 39.6160, 3.1886 g

Carretera Artà–Canyamel, km 8, 07580 ,  Capdepera, +34 971 816110 39.6517, 3.4383 gs

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MENORCA Diverse in natural character and rich in culture, Menorca is simply one of the most beautiful places we have ever visited. It was awarded UNESCO Biosphere Reserve status in 1993, and its natural landscapes and ecosystem are remarkably well preserved despite its tourist-destination status. A relatively flat island, much of its landscape is agricultural, punctuated by forests of holm oak, wild olive and pine trees, and crisscrossed by dry stone walls. Rosemary and juniper bushes scent your way along coastal paths, while wild saffron, foxgloves, gladioli and orchids provide jewel colours. The island has two distinct landscape areas: the north, Tramuntana, and the south, Migjorn. In Migjorn you find the white-sand beaches and turquoise sea, the limestone gorges and lush green forests for which Menorca is famed. Tramuntana, in contrast, is rugged and wild, with extraordinary vistas of sharp, craggy red rocks and high, wild cliffs. In parts nothing seems to grow except small shrubs, but it is here that we find some of the best wild beaches. A 185km coastal path called the Camí de Cavalls (road of the horse) circumnavigates the island, so you can walk its entire boundary. This 700-year-old track allowed islanders to travel between the defence towers across the island, which was regularly invaded; today it is used by hikers, mountain bikers and horses instead. Some stretches of the walk are steep, scrambly climbs with terrific views, while others are gentle forest walks with pine needles underfoot and birdsong in the air. Pit-stops along the way are few, and some sections cross very wild and rough terrain with no shade, so walking the entire route needs careful planning. Wild camping is not officially allowed on Menorca, but we took a hammock to string up in the gnarled old pine trees next to a beautiful wild beach and enjoyed the dawn chorus after a night under the stars. The island has a many-layered history. Little is known about the Bronze Age Talaioitic culture, but there are 1,600 sites on the island today, from the ‘talaiot’ fortifications to the

mysterious ‘taula’ megaliths and unique ‘navetas’ tombs. Many of them are in superb condition, with explanatory information boards, and can be explored for free. The island also has a wealth of hypogeas, cave systems used by these people either as dwellings or for burials. Even now some caves are lived in, but others are important nesting sites for the island’s birds of prey. Over more recent centuries, the island has been occupied and invaded by Romans, Turks, Byzantines, Muslims, Christians, French, English and Spanish, as well as pirates, so watchtowers mostly from the 16th and 17th century still stand around the coastline, in positions with breathtaking views. The crystal-clear, almost luminous water around the coast is rich in biodiversity, and a large area of the sea here is a marine reserve which makes it wonderful for snorkelling and exploring by kayak. Rippling meadows of Neptune’s grass (Posidonia oceanica) clean the water, and reefs house a host of fish and invertebrates. The island has more beaches than Mallorca and Ibiza combined, and they range from white, powdery sands to slate-covered shores, from dune-backed beaches and coves that appear almost magically at the end of a long hike down a ravine. The climate and geographical diversity of the island – marshes, farmland, wild islets, cliffs, caves and ravines – has created habitats for an equally wide range of birds and wildlife. Over 200 bird species can be spotted, from raptors like the red kite, booted eagle, and osprey, to Mediterranean locals like the Egyptian vulture and hoopoe and migratory species like the melodious nightingale. We have explored Menorca in high season and low, and it is definitely possible to find a beach all to yourself even in the height of summer. We recommend heading out early or late in the day and taking everything you need with you, as you will need to walk to these spots. This is an island best explored on foot, with salt on your skin and a pack on your back, following in the footsteps of ancient people that came before, swimming and hiking through paradise.

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menorca west Our perfect weekend , Dip in the cool, turquoise water of the beautiful little cove of Macarelleta , Seek out the secret steps to Cova des Pardals (Cave of Sparrows) a hidden sea cave once used for unloading boats, now perfect for snorkelling , Explore ancient ruins at Cala Morell and look down to the Punta des Elefant below , Devour garlic prawns in the Cova Sa Nacra restaurant in the cliff, and use the ladder down to the sea for a swim while you wait , Hike to the secret beach of Cala Es Talaier with powder-soft sand underfoot, wild pines all around and crystal water for a swim , Descend into the extraordinary world of Lithica, and walk a labyrinth in a vast quarry , Lose yourself in the ancient walled settlement of Son Catlar , Watch the sun set over the otherworldly landscape at Punta Nati

The stark difference between the landscapes of the north and south is most palpable in the west. Here, the desolate rockiness of northern Tramuntana prickles, while the beaches of southern Migjorn seduce. Ciutadella, the second city of the island, is a fine historical port, best explored with a homemade gelato or a ‘pomada’, the much-loved local mix of Menorcan gin (distilled from wine) and fresh lemonade. The north-west coastline between Ciutadella and the quiet resort of Cala Morell is one of the trickiest parts of the Camí de Cavalls trail. The landscape is wild and inhospitable, supporting only a few shrubs like wild capers, and the coast is famously stormy. The vast, flat plains of rock fall away into sheer drops to the sea, creating spectacular views, particularly from the Punta Nati lighthouse.

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The south-west couldn’t be more different. Here the landscape is lush and green, and the beaches are among the best in the world. Their white sand is soft underfoot and the sea is an almost unbelievable turquoise; almost all are undeveloped, and most welcome nudism. All are flanked by forests filled with birdsong and shady spots, and the scent of pine needles and saltwater is on the air everywhere.

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Some of the accessible beaches, like Cala Macarella and Cala en Turqueta, are popular, so you must visit them early, late or out of season to make the most of them. However, those who are prepared to walk can find plenty of quieter and, in our opinion, far more beautiful beaches. There are only a couple of car parks at the more popular spots, which fill up fast. We found the best plan is to park at the larger resorts of Cala Galdana or Son Xoriguer and then walk to smaller coves, or arrive at the smaller beach car parks either super early in the morning or early in the evening when most are leaving.

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A series of beautifully preserved talaiotic sites are dotted about this area, from necropolis hypogea to settlements. Most are free to enter and deserted, so you can wander around utterly alone, with only the astonishingly loud crickets and the tinkle of goat bells to hear. It is an almost spiritual experience standing in such ancient places where nothing has really changed in hundreds of years and imagining what life might have been like then. 186

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beaches 1 CALA D’ALGAIARENS A pristine white beach surrounded by pine forests and a rugged coastline. Well-known, so visit early, late, or out of season. The dune system is beautifully preserved, as the area is environmentally protected, with some lovely hikes nearby. Take RC-1 from Ciutadella NE, at ,  roundabout continue NE signed Cala Morell for 3kms, then turn R signed Algaiarens on sharp L bend. Follow for 3.6km to second car park (40.0426, 3.9202). Follow trail from signed gap in the wall in the NE corner down to the shore. 5 mins, 40.0459, 3.9227 qzK 2 PLATJA D’ES BOT This lovely little cove is a short walk from the busier Cala d’Algaiarens (see entry), passing a river where terrapins and fish can usually be spotted. This part of the island is fairly uninhabited and remote, great for exploring and multiple beach stops. On Cala d’Algaiarens, head to the far ,  E end and look for the trail (40.04692, 3.9239). You can either follow it around the coastline from here and scramble down

to the beach, or take a short walk through the forest behind the headland and over the river. 20 mins, 40.0497, 3.9244 qz 3 CALA DE SES FONTANELLES A very quiet little rock-and-shingle beach with old fishing huts and a mooring jetty, great to explore with a snorkel. Follow the road for Cala d’Algaiarens ,  (see entry) but park in the first car park, La Vall (40.0381, 3.9213). Walk on 80m towards the second car park to a gate into a field on your left, go through and follow the trail, joining the Camí de Cavalls down to the beach. 20 mins, 40.0464, 3.9146 zhA14 CODOLAR DE BINIATRAM Nestled between quiet Cala de ses Fontanelles and Cala Morell (see entries), on the Camí de Cavalls route, this remote and rocky cove is surrounded by rugged coastline. From Cala de ses Fontanelles continue W ,  along the Camí de Cavalls for another 1km then carefully scramble down, or swim from the rocks nearby. 25 mins, 40.0482, 3.9101 Ahv1-E

5 CALA MORELL This tiny, rocky cove has platforms built into the rock face right around the bay, with ladders into the water for swimmers and snorkellers. The little village of Cala Morell is charming, with whitewashed traditional houses set below huge cliffs and a small chiringuito by the shore, overlooked by Punta des Elefant, a striking elephantshaped rock. Follow RC-1 from NW Ciutadella and at ,  roundabout continue NW, signed Cala Morell. Follow 5.6km to roundabout on Cala Morell outskirts, with a taula-like sculpture, and take third exit signed for platja/beach and necropolis. Follow the twisting road down through the village – it ends in a roundabout by the chiringuito – and park on the street. Walk steeply downhill to the shore. 5 mins, 40.0538, 3.8820 1-qT 6 CALA PILAR This beach is loved by the locals for its golden sand and picture-book beauty. Surrounded by hills of red clay and reached down wooden steps, it has a man-made cave perched up in the hill where you can shelter from the sun and a spring at the back of the beach you can drink from. Take care if there

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is a north wind, as the sea is likely to be very wild. You can follow the coastal trails east to Platja dels Alocs and west to Macar de Alfuri, but this stretch of coastline is steep, craggy and harsh so be prepared for a tough hike. Follow Me-1 from the edge of Ciutadella ,  towards Ferreries for about 7.5km, take the slip road on the right signed Camí de Pilar and follow under the ME-1 to a roundabout. Follow the Camí d’Alfurí/Camí Alpuze Vey 4km to the car park (40.0357, 3.9727). From here it is a 2km downhill trek through scrubby forest to the long wooden steps. 30 mins, 40.0509, 3.9781 Ah1-9

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7 CALA EN TURQUETA Possibly one of the most beautiful beaches on Menorca, this little white-sand cove is surrounded by forests and protected from developers. With picture-perfect turquoise sea in front and pine trees behind, it can get very busy in the summer. But go early morning, late evening or off-season and you could have it all to yourself. Also a great spot for bouldering and jumping. On RC-2 to the S of Ciutadella, at the fifth ,  roundabout from the port, take the exit S signed for platjes and beach car parks including Cala en Turqueta, and continue 9km

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following signs. The road becomes single track closer to the end, where you turn R for car park. Follow track from end of car park to the beach. 15 mins, 39.9323, 3.9149 qK1T 8 CALA ES TALAIER This shallow little cove feels like a slice of paradise, backed by pine trees and cocooned by rocks either side. Stretch out on the soft sand and enjoy being in the middle of nowhere. Best of all, there is no road to it: walk in from Platja de Son Saura or slightly further from Cala en Turqueta (see entries). From Platja de Son Saura follow the ,  coastal trail E through the trees from the last beach (39.9268, 3.8972) across the headland – or walk around the headland to pass a bunker from the Spanish Civil War. From Cala en Turqueta follow the signposted coastal trail W from the beach. 10–20 mins, 39.9268, 3.9028 hq-z 9 PLATJA DE SON SAURA Two long, white sandy beaches, Son Saura and Bellavista, stretch along the coastline. They can get busy in high season, however it

11 XX is always possible to find a quiet spot if you wander along either. On RC-2 to the S of Ciutadella, at the fifth ,  roundabout from the port, take exit S signed for platjes and beach car parks including Cala en Turqueta. Follow this road 2.7km and bear right, signed Son Saura. Continue on this road past ancient ruins of Son Catlar (see listing) 6.3km to car park. First beach lies 140m beyond car park. 5 mins, 39.9265, 3.8962 q1K 10 CALA DE SON VELL This stretch of coastal path takes you by some of Menorca’s most unspoilt beaches, and this little cove is perfect for a dip along the way. Masses of posidonia seaweed collects on the shore, and the water is wonderfully clear as a result. Drive to Platja de Son Saura car park (see ,  entry). From W end of beach follow coastal trail for 2km. You can continue on this route, which becomes the Camí de Cavalls, 1km to the Cova des Pardals sea cave (see listings), and a further 1.5km to the resort of Son Xoriguer, a nice easy walk. 60 mins, 39.9235, 3.8687 0zhA

11 CALA MACARELLA Macarella is quite rightly one of Menorca’s ‘poster’ beaches, sheltered by rock and pine forest, the water an almost unbelievably vibrant turquoise, and the sand perfectly white. It has a lovely little chiringuito just off the shore as well. Quite busy in the summer months so go early, or out of season. Follow Me-22 from Ferreires S to Cala ,  Galdana resort and park on the street or in the car park on Passatge Riu. Either join the Camí de Cavalls (39.9387, 3.9571) for a lovely clifftop hike with wonderful views and a lot of steps down (45 mins) or hire a kayak and paddle your way round. There is a beach car park but it is often full: On RC-2 to the S of Ciutadella, at the fifth roundabout from the port, take exit S signed for platjes and beach car parks including Cala en Turqueta. Follow 5km and turn L signed Macarella, follow 8.2km to car park at end and track through forest to the beach (15 mins). 15–45 mins, 39.9382, 3.9371 qK1 12 MACARELLETA The smaller sister beach to Cala Macarella (see entry) is Macaralleta, a much quieter and even more magical cove. The colour of the sea revealed as you turn the corner

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XX 15 13 towards the beach is simply breathtaking. Enjoy the rustic wooden fences on the walk and keep an eye out for wild goats along the trail. Best enjoyed first thing in the morning! From the W end of Cala Macarella continue ,  on the Camí de Cavalls. 15 mins, 39.9361, 3.9348 1zh 13 CALA EN BRUT This inlet in the hamlet resort of Torre del Ram is wild in the adventurous sense, with ladders leading to rock platforms of varying levels especially for cliff jumping, and it is deservedly popular. The water is 4–5m deep, so even a jump from the 10m height of La Cueva is possible for the experienced. From the W of Ciutadella head north ,  on RC1, at second roundabout follow signs for Cala en Blanes/Els Delfins by the Eroksi supermarket. Follow road 2km to a roundabout on outskirts of the resort, take first exit W (signed for hotels and scuba centre). Almost immediately there is a signed L to the main parking and access to the cliffs, but this is often full. Continue 700m to another roundabout, take unsigned third exit onto Carrer des Canal, and follow 630m to end. Just before the road ends it widens,

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and there is a sign and a trail R down to shore (40.0026, 3.8056). Park on the street. 5 mins, 40.0007, 3.8067 wK-1T 14 SA CALETA A pretty little suburban beach with pink tones to the white sand as the sea washes up. Whilst fairly narrow, this beach stretches back into the trees and the Camí de Cavalls trail, which crosses behind it. It can get busy, but is quieter than neighbouring Cala Santandria, oozes charm and has great swim spots and rock jumping. A short walk from here are the Torre des Castellar fort, a cave system and the sea cave Cova le Tres Boques (see entries). Head S on Me-24 from Ciutadella. At ,  the third roundabout take RC2 heading W, then at next roundabout take third exit, S onto Camí de Sa Caleta. Continue down this road 500m, fork L onto Paseig de Sa Caleta, and beach is at the end; look for street parking nearby. 5 mins, 39.9815, 3.8345 T1-K 15 PONT D’EN GIL Sculpted by the sea, this stunning natural bridge on the Camí de Cavalls trail also hides an enormous cave 200m long, accessed by boat and popular with scuba divers. This is the start of the hardest section of the trail, which is rocky and unforgiving as it curves around the western tip of the island. Start as for Cala en Brut (see entry), but at ,  the second roundabout on the outskirts of Torre del Ram continue straight on Avinguda Pont d’en Gil Los Delfines 500m, bear R at the shops to stay on this road, and follow 750m to the parking spot at the sharp bend. Walk through the gate in the little stone wall by the sign and follow the trail along the coast 300m to the arch. 5 mins, 40.0107, 3.7944 Aw6

sea caves 16 COVA DE TRES BOQUES Found just off an unassuming suburban street, these large sea caves are tricky to access but definitely worth it. The three entrances connect inside and it is possible to enter through one, swim and scramble through and emerge from the other side to swim back in the open sea. Start as for Sa Caleta (see entry), but ,  instead of bearing L off the Camí de Sa Caleta near shore, stay R onto Carrera Vorera dels Molls, follow for 500m and park. Alternatively

XX 17 follow the shoreline path from Sa Caleta. From parking, walk to a circular stone wall on the clifftop (39.9841, 3.8301), around the roof hole to the cave below. From this, bear L to cliff edge, and very carefully make your way down the cliff face to a cave entrance facing the open sea; this is visible from the top. Once down, there is a little platform you can stand on to enter the cave system. This is a very dangerous climb! 2 mins, 39.9841, 3.8301 w69AUv 17 SA COVA DES PARDALS The ‘cave of sparrows’ is reached from above, down enclosed steps, and was used to unload boats; if you look up you can see into the building above through the ceiling. Crystal waters open out to the sea to make a perfect spot for snorkelling. Take Me-24 S from Ciutadella to Son ,  Xoriguer/Cala en Bosc. At roundabout take third exit, signed Cala en Bosc, onto Carrer Llevant, and continue 1.3km around centre to the Carema Beach hotel. Turn L onto Gran Via de Son Xoriguer, follow 1km to end and park (39.9284, 3.8498). Follow trail from the end SW for 500m, or walk down parallel Carrer la Platja 330m and

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historical wonders 19 LITHICA, PEDRERES DE S’HOSTAL This unique site is a vast former limestone quarry which has been transformed into a spectacular space to explore. Contemplate the lily pool or medieval-style garden, walk the labyrinths, and discover the many other hidden delights below the towering walls. An absolute gem! Free for children and totally worth the entrance for adults. Take RC-2, and at sixth roundabout from ,  Ciutadella Port (2.5km) take the second exit, signed Pedreres de s’Hostal, the longer name for Lithica. Follow 800m to the entrance on L. Parking on site. 4 hours, 40.0043, 3.8675 7£qz 20 CAVE SYSTEM, SA CALETA There is a curious little system of caves along the headland as you head west from Sa Caleta beach towards the Torre des Castellar (see entries). We can’t find any information as to why they are there, possibly they were used by fishermen, but they are fun to explore and see where you pop out. There are great spots to jump in and swim along here too. Park as for Sa Caleta, follow headland W ,  around 150m dir Torre des Castellar to caves R. 5 mins, 39.9809, 3.8327 9qA

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turn L through car park, to arrive at the far E of the beach next to the Surf & Sail shack. Look for signed Camí de Cavalls trail (39.9256, 3.8451) and follow E for around 1.4km to a little building near cliff edge and white wall around staircase. 30 mins, 39.9222, 3.8587 9Ah118 BUFOADOR DE PUNTA NATI The extraordinary rocky pavement landscape of Punta Nati is home to not only a lighthouse and military ruins beside it, but two impressive blowholes to gaze into, Bufador de Punta Nati and nearby Bufador de Son Salomo (40.0443, 3.8198). Go carefully, this is a wild and unfenced place. If you stay for the sunset you might want a torch to pick your way back to the main track over the rug ged stone. From Ciutadella follow Cf-5 from the ,  roundabout with RC-1, signed for Punta Nati, for 3.8km to car park. Walk on 1km along the access road to lighthouse, climb stile R and go around for ruins and blowhole; follow coast back S to find the Bufador de Son Salomo. 15 mins, 40.0516, 3.8250 69w7

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21 TORRE DES CASTELLAR This well-preserved Martello tower dates from the end of the 18th century, when the last British governor ordered 12 built along the coast. This one, 8m tall and entered underground from an adjacent building, was to defend Ciutadella. It boasts a fabulous view, and there is a tiny unnamed beach right next to it and fabulous snorkelling around the headland. Park as for Sa Caleta beach (see entry) and ,  from W of the beach follow headland round 350m to the tower, passing the tiny beach on the way. 10 mins, 39.9803, 3.8318 7q-

prehistoric ruins 22 NAVETA D’ES TUDONS This impressive restored chamber tomb held the bones of about 100 people from around 1000BC, but was probably built earlier. With two levels inside its upturned boat shape (not accessible), it is the largest and possibly the most famous of the pre-Talaiotic navetas, so it can get busy at times, but it is worth a stop just to marvel at the ancient exterior. Follow Me-1 from roundabout on outskirts , 

of Ciutadella E for 2.4km look for signs R. There is a pull off lane for car park, walk 500m S to the site. 5 mins, 40.0030, 3.8917 Q87 23 NÉCROPOLIS DE CALA MORELL These 14 ancient hypogea burial chambers were carved out of the rocks from the Bronze Age through the Talaiotic era to the Iron Age. There are niches in the front wall, internal columns, windows with fabulous views, skylights and even classical carved decorations. A truly awe-inspiring place, free to enter and wander around. Follow RC-1 from NE Ciutadella and take ,  the exit signed Cala Morell and Nécropolis at the roundabout, follow 5.5km to the village. At roundabout on the outskirts, with taula-like sculpture, the Nécropolis is signed from the third exit, along Carrer Lira. Parking R after 300m, opp entrance. 5 mins, 40.0497, 3.8823 8Q9 24 NAVIFORMES DE CALA MORELL All but invisible until you are upon them, these ancient boat-shaped outlines are not tombs but a fortified settlement perched atop a 35m high coastal headland, with a spectacular view out over the sea. There are at least 12 dwellings you can explore and imagine what it might have been like to live in this spot around 1600–1200BC. The remains of hearths were excavated, and although surrounded by the sea, it seems the early population here ate no fish or shellfish. Drive to Cala Morell as for the Nécropolis ,  (see entry), but at the roundabout take the second exit (Carrer Via Làctia) signed Assentament costaner de cala Morell and follow it to the end, bearing left after 500m and then after 200m taking the second exit L off a triangular roundabout. Park where you can and follow the trail at the S end of the dead-end road (40.0562, 3.8849) 300m along the headland. 10 mins, 40.0576, 3.8823 *6qQ 25 TORRELLAFUDA This Bronze Age settlement was inhabited until the end of the Roman occupation. A remarkable site to walk around, it has burial chambers, a talaiot, a taula shrine and many dwelling chambers. Very quiet, so usually you will get the place to yourself, although it is also home to several cows who wander freely. Follow Me-1 for 5.3km E from edge of ,  Ciutadella dir Maó. Take signed turn off R,

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slow food 28 COVA SA NACRA This quirky little beach restaurant is set into the rocks, so you can sit inside the cave to eat and cool down, or on the terrace overlooking the sea. There is even a ladder down to take a dip while you wait. Wonderful views and terrific black paella with squid ink. Carrer de Sa Nacra, Santandría, Sa Caleta, ,  07769 Ciutadella, +34 971 386206 39.9790, 3.8381 29 LA MER BEACH HOUSE A refreshing pit stop on the Camí de Cavalls, this chiringuito is set right on the beach and serves simple food and welcome frozen cocktails. Enjoy sitting with your toes in the sand, sipping your drink in the shade of the olive trees. Carrer igne de lleó, Sa Caleta, 07769 ,  Ciutadella, +34 654 434220 39.9814, 3.8345

XX 26 follow 800m to small car park. Follow path opp through field to the site. 5 mins, 39.9994, 3.9239 87Qqz 26 SON CATLAR The enormous prehistoric settlement of Son Catlar has a taula enclosure and the remains of four talaiots, with helpful signs to show you the way and explain what you are looking at. Uniquely, the 1km-long encircling defensive wall is almost intact, with a perfectly preserved entrance. Very quiet aside from the noisy crickets. On RC-2, at the fifth roundabout from ,  Ciutadella port take first exit S, signed for beach car parks including Cala en Turqueta. Follow 2.7km, bear right signed Son Saura. Follow 3.3km to parking L and path to site. 5 mins, 39.9538, 3.8750 87Qqz

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27 TORRETRENCADA This site is best known for its impressive T-shaped taula, in remarkable condition and with a reinforcing column. There are also a talaiot enclosure, the remains of circular houses, and hypogea you can explore. The settlement appears to have been lived in until the Middle Ages, and the fascinating finds from many different eras here include a bronze statue of Jupiter. Follow Me-1 E from Ciutadella past Naveta d’es ,  Tudons (see entry) and 1km further turn R following purple sign for Poblat talaiótic de Torretrencada, continue 1km to T junction. Turn L and continue 2km to car park L and short path into the site. 5 mins, 39.9865, 3.9235 87Qq

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30 RESTAURANT EL MIRADOR Cala Galdana is one of the most beautiful beaches on the island. The large hotels are an unwelcome presence on the cove, but this restaurant on a headland inside the shelter of the bay is a delight. You can watch the sun setting through a gap in the rocks behind, and have a panoramic view of the sea from the front. The best seafood and wonderful atmosphere. Playa Cala Galdana, 07750 Ferreries, ,  +34 971 154503 39.9378, 3.9583 31 BAR RESTAURANTE ES FAR D’ARTRUTX Popular spot in a converted lighthouse on the rocky coastline. Get a cocktail and simple meal from the bar and relax watching the sun set over Mallorca. Paseig maritim, s/n, Edificio Faro Urb. Cap ,  D’A rtutx, 07769 Ciutadella, +34 654 397300 39.9225, 3.8241 32 SA GELATERIA DE MENORCA, CIUTADELLA A wonderful place to stop for a cool down whilst exploring the winding streets of Ciutadella. Opposite the cathedral, this artisan shop has been selling its many flavours of homemade ice cream for 40 years. They also make a mean pomada, the local speciality of Menorcan gin with cloudy lemonade. Plaça de la Catedral 3, 07760 Ciutadella, ,  +34 971 381192 40.0016, 3.8379

33 BINIGARBA QUESOS Pick up cheese and cured meats produced on the estate here, as well as honey, wine and other local produce. Camí de Binigarba, s/n, 07760 Ciutadella, ,  +34 971 188811 39.9937, 3.9044

talaiots on its land, this lovely agroturisme is set in the old stables. Stylish attention to detail, decorated with artisanal products from around the island, and lovely fresh homegrown produce. RC-1 km 0.9, 07760 Ciutadella, ,  +34 603 634121 40.0160, 3.8627

places to stay

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36 SON JUANEDA AGROTURISMO, CIUTADELLA This 18th-century country house has been beautifully converted to a 12-bedroom hotel with a restaurant. Simple, light décor and attention to detail, in rural surroundings but close to Ciutadella. Camí de Cala Morell, 07760 Ciutadella, ,  +34 686 404275 40.0154, 3.8666

34 AGROTURISME BINIATRAM, CIUTADELLA A simple, rustic, family-run farmhouse hotel, set in extensive gardens with its own walking trail. Rooms and self-catering apartments available. Carretera Camí de Cala Morell, km 1, 07760 ,  Ciutadella, +34 971 383113 40.0382, 3.8916 35 SES TALAIES, CIUTADELLA Set amongst beautiful olive groves and fruit trees and named after the three ancient

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menorca central Our perfect weekend , Scramble down the ravine to beautiful, lonely Cala Llucalari beach, explore the caves and swim in the deep blue sea , Hike between towering ravine cliffs to the vast Cova des Coloms and on down to Platja de Binigaus , Explore the incredible honeycombed rockface of Peña del Indio in the stunning s’Arangi park , Search for Roman remains in the sites of the abandoned Roman city of Sanisera, now the little harbour of Sanitja , Feast on local seafood paella shaded by trees overlooking the beach at Restaurant Binimel-là , Watch the sun rise or set over the sea from Far de Cavalleria, the northernmost point of the island , Indulge a sweet tooth with traditional Menorcan pastries from Cas Sucrer des Mercadal

This middle section of Menorca is home to some of the island’s most dramatic places, a northern coastline dotted with wild and remote beaches set within a protected marine biosphere, and a southern coastline where deep ravines carve through ancient forests to wild and beautiful beaches. The Northern Marine Reserve was created in 1999 and is the largest in the Balearics, protecting 5,199 hectares of sea. It covers most of the northern coastline here, and has a rich diversity of hundreds of species of fish, crustaceans and weeds, as well as a protected reef. This makes it a magical place to explore with a snorkel, and most of the beaches along the northern coast have perfect conditions to swim around and see what you can find, with crystal waters flanked by plenty of rocks and seaweed. Keep your eyes peeled for seahorses, octopus, damselfish, striped mullet, saddled seabream and rainbow wrasse living amongst the seaweed meadows and craggy rocks.

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Several ‘barrancs’ or deep ravines run from the centre of the island to the southern coast. Once these were raging torrents of water heading out to the sea, but most are now dried up and filled with wild vegetation, offering stunning hikes along winding trails through ancient forests dotted with Neolithic caves. Barranc de Binigaus is one notable trail that runs from the tiny village of Es Migjorn Gran down to the beautiful beach of Platja de Binigaus, passing the awe-inspiring natural Cova des Coloms (literally cave of the doves, but also called the Cathedral), 24m high and 100m deep. It was a burial site in the Talaiotic era, and human bones and ceramic artefacts from around 500BC have been discovered here. The coast stretching east from Cala Galdana is riddled with caverns too; many gleam with an array of different colours, a natural phenomenon caused by bacteria in the rocks, known as ‘living stone’, and there is even a beach within one.

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This part of the island holds other significant historical sites including the Son Bou Basilica, an ancient Christian ruin at one end of the 2.5km long Platja de Son Bou. In the cliffs behind it are cave dwellings, inhabited even to this day. There are many Talaiotic ruins, and also remains of a Roman fort near the Sanitja port, which is an ongoing archaeological research base.

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The northern coastline is scenic and sparsely populated, with vast cliffs dipping down to stunning beaches right along the Camí de Cavalls trail. Only two car parks serve the whole area from Cala Pilar east to Cala Tirant, so the beaches here are mostly accessible only on foot. This makes them much quieter, and the further you walk the more likely you are to have the whole beach to yourself, even in the peak season. The landscape changes significantly as you walk along, both the colour of the stone and the feel of the rocks, especially around Cala Pregonda and the neighbouring beaches; at times it feels otherworldly. 200

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beaches & coves 1 PLATJA DE SON BOU One of the best-known beaches on the island, Son Bou is popular, and its white sands can be very busy near the car park. However, is over 2.5km long and due to its size it is easy to find a quiet spot if you walk along, and there is great hiking in either direction from here, so it is worth knowing about. Wild chickens roam the beach and the wooden walkways that run along behind it, and you can buy a simple seafood lunch or a cold drink after a long hike from one of the several chiringuitos right on the shore. At the eastern end of the beach are the remains of Son Bou Basilica (see entry), and several of the ancient caves high up in the cliffs behind are still lived in. There can be rip tides here: there are lifeguards in high season, but be especially careful at any other time. Heading E on Me-1, at junction and ,  roundabout W of Alaior take first exit, signed Son Bou. Follow 6.6km to roundabout at E side of village, take second exit and follow straight through another roundabout to beach car park at end. Follow the wooden walkways to the beach. 3 mins, 39.8993, 4.0724 qK1

2 CALA DE LLUCALARI This rocky beach frequented by wild goats is reached from Son Bou (see entry) via a very steep and scrambly ravine, with caves to explore up in the hills either side and an ancient man-made cave on the shore, providing great shelter from the sun. If you look high up the cliffs to the west you will see a door painted with a heron, which leads into a little cave dwelling. The posedonia seaweed that builds up on the shoreline keeps the water brilliantly clear, perfect for snorkelling. From E end of Son Bou, with the path to Son ,  Bou Basilica ahead of you, follow path L up to a one-way road. Head R 175m, around the corner L, to red Camí de Cavalls sign R on a dirt track up the hill (39.8982, 4.0800). Follow the well-signed trail 1km through the forest and down the Barranc de Llucalari ravine to the shore. It is possible to continue hiking to the east from here, along to Cala de Sant Llorenc (39.8831, 4.0937). 30 mins, 39.8913, 4.0820 hzvA01-E 3 PLATJA DE SANT ADEODATO A lovely wide and sandy beach with a relaxed, family feel and plenty of space to spread out, although it is popular. There is a

little island just off the western end, which is perfect to snorkel around. Chiringuito es Bruc (see entry) is popular with locals and overlooks the shore. From Es Migjorn Gran follow Me-18 for ,  3.5km S to the village of Sant Tomas. The car park is R off the first roundabout, the beach and chiringuito straight ahead. 2 mins, 39.9167, 4.0340 Kq14 PLATJA DE BINIGAUS Just west of Platja de Sant Adeodato (see entry) lies this beautiful sandy beach, backed by protected sand dunes that merge into a dense forest beyond. You can walk in on the coastal path, with great places to dip all along the way, or hike down the Barranc de Binigaus ravine via the stunning Cova des Coloms (see entry). From W end of Platja de Sant Adeodato ,  continue 500m along coastal path. To hike in from Es Migjorn Gran, park at cemetery (39.9431, 4.0457) and walk on S on road for 1.2km, past the Hotel Rural Binigaus Vell, to turn L on Camí de Cavalls signed Cova des Coloms and the beach (39.9355, 4.0378). This is a rough path, and you will need proper footwear. Hike steeply downhill for around 1km and look for signs painted on rocks

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7 XX indicate Cova des Coloms L, steeply uphill off main path (39.9331 4.0390). Continue a further 2.3km down the main ravine path to reach the beach. 10–90 mins, 39.9207, 4.0245 Qz15 BUFADOR DEL RACO DES BARRILL This blowhole lies just off the coastal trail between Platja de Binigaus and Cala Escorxada (see entries). It is a deep hole down into a sea cave below, and on a windy day water blows right up and out of the top. There are plenty of other great caves and rockpools nearby to discover on this part of the trail, making it a fun stretch for a hike along the coast. Follow coastal trail from W end of Platja de ,  Binigaus (39.9214, 4.0249). Keep an eye on the co-ordinates, as this blowhole is hard to spot: it is just off the trail on the seaward side of the fence. 45 mins, 39.9207, 4.0143 EvwA

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6 CALA ESCORXADA This remote and wild, forest-fringed cove is a pretty serious hike from Platja de Sant Adeodato, passing Platja de Binigaus along the way (see entries). The coastal trail is rough going at times, with climbing

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up and scrambling down, and sometimes precariously close to the cliff edge, but it all feels worth it when you turn that final corner and see this unspoilt crescent ahead of you. Park as for Platja de Sant Adeodato, and ,  follow coast path W from the beach almost 3km. There is also a longer walk in from Cala Mitjana, or you could hire a kayak and paddle in passing the sea caves E of Cala Galdana (see entries). 60–90 mins, 39.9255, 4.0042 whvA01z 7 CALA FUSTAM This secluded beach, surrounded by forests, offers beautifully clear water over white sand and cool caves to explore with a snorkel. The hike in is very long and fairly arduous, but you will pass other lovely beaches and swim spots right along the way, notably Cala Escorxada, Platja de Binigaus and Platja de Sant Adeodato (see entries). Park as for Platja de Sant Adeodato, and ,  follow coast path W from beach almost 3km. There is also a longer walk in from Cala Mitjana, or you could hire a kayak and paddle in passing the sea caves E of Cala Galdana (see entries). 90–120 mins, 39.9257, 4.0007 whvA1E

XX 10 8 CALA MITJANA This is the place if you want to try high cliff jumping into the sea – watch the locals do it first so you know where to jump from! There are some excellent sea caves to explore with a snorkel or kayak too. A walk from here to the beautiful Cala Trebalúger to the east is possible (see entry). Take the Me-22 from Ferreries towards ,  Cala Galdana for 6.3km and look for wellsigned parking L for Cala Mitjana just before a roundabout (39.9397, 3.9667). Head through gap in the stone wall, after 200m bear right on trail through forest, then take L fork in road to Cala Mitjana (old car park at end of this is now closed). 15 mins, 39.9341, 3.9723 Tw-9 9 CALA MITJANETA A short walk along the coast from Cala Mitjana (see entry) lies its quieter counterpart, Cala Mitjaneta. The tiny beach is flanked by high rocks, great to spread a towel out on and jump down to swim or snorkel from, with quiet pine forests behind, and sparkling, shallow turquoise water. There’s even a Civil War bunker looking down from the rocks.

From Cala Mitjana continue from R end of ,  beach and uphill for 200m. 5 mins, 39.9341, 3.9723 1-z 10 CALA TREBALÚGER It is worth the hilly forest hike to get to this stunning beach. With wide white sands and shallow turquoise water, it is surrounded by trees and unusually has a river flowing over the shore into the sea. It is also possible to walk in from Platja de Sant Adeodato and continue on to the resort of Cala Galdana via Cala Mitjana (see entries), but it would be half a day of hard hiking. Water taxis do also drop people off here in the mid-part of the day. Park and walk as for Cala Mitjana. At E ,  end of beach take steps to coast path and follow through forest about 1.5km to Cala Trebalúger. To reach the beach, wade across river and climb over rocks. 45 mins, 39.9311, 3.9890 0hAv1 11 SEA CAVES, CALA GALDANA There are many sea caves in Menorca, and the stretch of water between Cala Galdana and Cala Mitjana is great to explore, with three major caves. Cova Pudent is the best known of them, and at 200m it is possibly

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XX 12 the longest sea cave on the island; tree roots can be seen hanging from the roof above and there is a beach at the end. Bring a torch! Hire a kayak from Artiem Audaux hotel ,  (+34 971 154646) right on the slipway, who can advise on how to locate all the caves, or join an expedition. 4 hours, 39.9387, 3.9573 9A2 12 PLATJA DE CAVELLARIA The steps down to these wide, golden sands have stunning views across the protected dunes down the wild coastline. It can get busy during high season, but is large enough to easily find a quiet spot, or you can walk along the shore onto its sister beach Platja de Ferragut, which is much quieter, or 700m beyond that to Cala Mica (40.0561, 4.0661). There is a little chiringuito in the car park. A beautiful spot for watching the sun set. At the roundabout of Me-7 and Me-15 to N ,  of Es Mercadal, take exit W signed Binimel-là and Far de Cavelleria and follow 4km. Turn R signed Far de Cavalleria lighthouse (see entry) and follow 3km to large signed car park L. Head through gate at top of car park for signed trail and stairs to shore. 5 mins, 40.0596, 4.0768 qK1-

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13 CALA ROJA A delightful red, rocky beach, nestled at the bottom of a hill in a remote and wild part of the island. There is excellent snorkelling here, as the water is perfectly clear with lots of weeds and rocks and plenty of fish to find. Next to Platja de Cavellaria (see entry), and you can also walk from here to the tiny cove of Cala Torta (40.0666, 4.0789). Park at Platja de Cavellaria but take fork ,  R in path above steps to scramble down to Cala Roja. For Cala Torta, follow dirt trail from middle of the beach about 500m, heading inland to a wall and then N to cove. 5 mins, 40.0626, 4.0775 q-1 14 CALA VIOLA DE PONENT The most northerly beach on the island, Cala Viola is situated on the west coast of a very narrow spit of land leading up to the Cap de Cavalleria – so narrow that you can see across to the sea on the east side and a cove called Cala Viola de Llevant. This side has great rock pooling and snorkelling – all of this stretch of coast is part of the marine reserve – and there are wild goats on the Cap who often visit the beach. Shallow and protected, this is a lovely family-friendly beach and a beautiful place from which to watch the sunset.

XX 18 Start as for Platja de Cavellaria (see entry) ,  but continue 2.3km beyond; pull off to park 700m after passing through a wall with sign for the marine reserve (40.0694, 4.0903), and follow track to beach. The road continues to Far de Cavelleria (see entry) where there is a café. 3 mins, 40.0760, 4.0909 A1-q6 15 PLATJA DE BINIMEL-LÀ This beach is part of the protected coastal reserve and teems with underwater life. The rocks either end of the wide, red sands are great to swim from, don’t forget your snorkel! If you wander along to the east of the beach, you can explore a string of tiny, rocky coves that lie just beyond – Caleta de Binimel-là, Caleta de s’Elisabet, Cala Racó d'en Miquel and Punta de Binimel-là – and several more spots further west can only be reached from this beach, as the roads near them are private. At roundabout of Me-7 and Me-15 to N of ,  Es Mercadal, take exit W signed Binimel-là and Far de Cavelleria, and follow 6km. Turn R signed Platja de Binimel-là and follow 1.4km, turn L avoiding dead end. Park along road (40.0478, 4.0544), walk on past Restaurant Binimel-là (see entry) and down path to beach. 5 mins, 40.0516, 4.0530 q-1

16 CALA MORTS Much quieter than neighbouring Platja de Binimel-là and Cala Pregonda (see entries), as most people pass by this pebbly beach and don’t stop. We found it to be a perfect little spot for a refreshing dip, and the rocks underwater make it a great spot for snorkelling, especially as this area is part of the marine reserve. Park as for Platja de Binimel-là (see entry) ,  and follow path 350m W from end of beach. 15 mins, 40.0524, 4.0482 Ahz117 CALANCA DE SON NADAL A tiny, rocky cove nestled between beaches, this is a lovely little spot for a quiet swim slightly off the beaten track, a hidden gem and really tucked away from the path. Park as for Platja de Binimel-là, follow path ,  W from end of beach 600m and look for a little path R down to the water, about 200m beyond Cala Morts (see entry). 20 mins, 40.0540, 4.0467 01A 18 CALA SON MERCADURET The rich red, craggy rocks are in stark contrast to the vivid blues at this little cove just off the path. You can swim out to the nearby island from here, there are great

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21 XX spots to jump from and wonderful clear water to snorkel in. The rocks are spiky though, so water shoes are advised. From Platja de Binimel-là (see entry), follow ,  coastal path W from end of beach about 750m. Just before Cala Pregonda S’Alario (see entry) visible ahead, follow a small trail R 50m down to the water. 25 mins, 40.0549, 4.0454 h119 CALA PREGONDA S’ALARIO & CALA PREGONDA The first of these beaches has some amazing rock formations to explore, and plenty of places to jump into the water from them. A little further round on the coastal path is the more popular Cala Pregonda, a wide, orange volcanic beach with deep turquoise waters. It also has some fabulous little islets to snorkel around and explore, including Escullar de Pregonda and Punta de Cala Pregonda. From Platja de Binimel-là (see entry), ,  follow the coastal path W from end of beach 800m reach Cala Pregonda S’Alario. To reach Cala Pregonda (40.0569, 4.0405) walk up from W end of this beach through gap in wall onto the roadway and 220m to a path R down to sand. 30 mins, 40.0546, 4.0439 1z-

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sacred & ancient 20 SON BOU BASILICA One of the oldest Christian structures on the islands, this basilica dates from around the 5th century and like others on the island is more North African than European in shape. The ruins, low enough to be tempting for children to climb on, are enclosed by a wall, but you can walk around and clearly see the original layout, a baptismal font, and simple graves outside the building. Fabulous views from the pathways above. Heading E on Me-1, at junction and ,  roundabout W of Alaior take first exit, signed Son Bou. Follow 6.6km to roundabout at E side of the village, take second exit and follow straight through another roundabout to beach car park at end (39.9001, 4.0741). Follow the wooden walkways to beach, walk 500m E to ruins just beyond end of beach. 10 mins, 39.8960, 4.0789 78q 21 SANISERA ROMAN SITES Along the small road leading up to Cap de Cavalleria are Roman remains related to the ancient port of Sanisera, long abandoned, silted up and reduced to little Sanitja Port nearby. The sites, from a military camp

23 XX above the harbour to the seabed below it, are still being studied, but you can enjoy wandering around. There are boat remains and amphorae to be seen in the water, but they sank and the port was abandoned for a good reason; the currents are often dangerous to those in the water. If you would like to get closer to the Romans, you can take a course excavating in the necropolis across the inlet (40.0695, 4.0876), where participants are allocated a grave to work on. At roundabout of Me-7 and Me-15 to N of ,  Es Mercadal, take exit W signed Binimellà and Far de Cavelleria and follow 4km. Turn R signed Far de Cavalleria lighthouse and follow 3km to car park L for Platje de Cavalleria (see entry) and walk on 1.3km; alternatively continue 2.3km beyond Platje de Cavalleria and park as for Cala Viola de Ponent (see entry, 40.0753, 4.0928), walking back 900m to ruins on both sides of the road. For courses, see Sanisera Archaeology Institute (archaeology.institute). 15–20 mins, 40.0671, 4.0897 Q7 22 TORRE DE FORNELLS This British-built tower from 1801 stands at the end of the headland just outside the fishing village of Fornells, where the

Castell de San Antoni that the tower defended now lies in ruins, deliberately demolished (40.0572, 4.1332). The tower is in remarkable condition and there is an exhibition inside with paid entry, but we came for the view it commands, looking out along the headland towards Cap de Cavalleria, Menorca’s most northerly point. Fornells harbour is also a great place for fresh seafood. From Es Mercadal follow Me-15 for 7km ,  N into Fornells, follow the one-way system and then signs for Torre de Fornells through roundabouts and N on Carrer Trumuntana overlooking the sea to parking at end (40.0617, 4.1329). Walk up to the tower, visible from here. 5 mins, 40.0613, 4.1306 7Q£ 23 FAR DE CAVALLERIA This lighthouse sits at the most northerly point of Menorca, at the tip of a 3km spit of land where there were over 700 shipwrecks from the 14th to the 19th century, when the lighthouse was built. There is a small exhibition and a café, and this is also a popular place to come to watch the sun set; the landscape is scrubby and wild, and the views are excellent.

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XX 25 is impressive to walk around, with three defensive talaiots, a taula enclosure, typical roundhouses, and a sophisticated water system – well worth the €3 entry fee. There is also a lovely signed walk from here to the village of Cala En Porter following the ravine. Heading E on Me-1, at junction and ,  roundabout W of Alaior take first exit, signed Son Bou. Follow 2.4km and take L with purple sign for Poblat talaóitic Torre d’en Galmés. Follow 1.4km, keep L at fork following purple sign for a further 350m to signed car park R. 2 mins, 39.9029, 4.1157 £87Q

XX 25 At roundabout of Me-7 and Me-15 to N of ,  Es Mercadal, take exit W signed Binimel-là and Far de Cavelleria and follow 4km. Turn R, signed Far de Cavalleria, and follow 7km to car park at end. 5 mins, 40.0883, 4.0920 6zh 24 TORRE D’EN GALMÉS One of the largest Talaiotic sites on the island, this was also one of the longestoccupied, from the start of the era in 1400BC to the end of the Roman era and then again intermittently until the 13th century. It has an information centre and

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25 SES ROQUES LLISES This early Bronze Age Talaiotic structure was a communal tomb. Recovered artefacts include an archer’s bracelet, a copper weapon point and ceramic pieces. Unlike neighbouring Torre d’en Galmés (see entry), this site is free but doesn’t attract many visitors so is a peaceful place to explore. As for Torre d’en Galmés, but continue ,  700m down what becomes a bumpy singletrack road to a small parking space L and sign. The ruins are a short walk up a signed track. 5 mins, 39.8974, 4.1126 8QAh

26 BINICODRELL DE DARRERA Around 1000-700BC there was apparently a large settlement here, but now only two talaiots still remain. One is in fairly good condition, with a zig-zag ramp up to views of the area it commanded. If you are on the way to visit Cova des Coloms (see entry) it is worth a quick detour to wander around here; ancient pottery fragments can still be found. In Es Migjorn village follow Camí de sa ,  Malagarba to the SW and cemetery, but park R just before leaving the village (39.9445, 4.0464). Cross to wooden gate and sign opp, ruins in field. 1 min, 39.9439, 4.0464 8QA

wildlife walks 27 FINCA PÚBLICA S’ARANGÍ This natural park, opened to the public as part of the forest conservation programme, has three beautiful hiking trails and amazing views across the valley and towards El Toro, the highest hill on the island. Wild and quiet, with a diverse ecosystem, it is a great place for spotting wildlife, with plenty of lizards, tortoises and birds of prey. We recommend walking to Peña del Indio, a huge rock formation named for its shape, which

XX 27 from one angle resembles a head with a Native American warbonnet. This is popular with climbers, as the amazing honeycomb texture makes it perfect for bouldering, but otherwise the forest is not very well-known, so you could have it to yourself. There is also a great shop across the road with a café where you can try samples with your coffee of cheese and other local produce. Take Me-1 from Es Mercadel S for about ,  1.5km and turn R at finca publica s’A rangi sign into car park. It is very easy to miss and on a fast road, so be prepared; you can turn in a layby 250m on, but cannot turn across into the car park heading N, so you would have to drive right back to the roundabout at Es Mercadel. Trails of various lengths are clearly marked from the car park. 20–90 mins, 39.9701, 4.0934 hzqAE34 28 PEDRERA DE SANTA PONÇA A wonderful example of nature taking back space, or ‘rewilding’, this old limestone quarry is now a beautiful spot to explore. Paths lead through soaring canyons full of nesting birds, lumbering tortoises and wildflowers. It is a peaceful haven in the centre of the island, absolutely worth a visit and very much under the radar so likely to be quiet.

On Me-1 at roundabout to W of Alaior, ,  follow about 1.5km W and take the small, unsigned L to Sa Maleta (39.9366, 4.1232). Follow 450m and turn L on a small gravel road to park after 100m. Walk on along track. 5 mins, 39.9329, 4.1227 45d

caves & gorges 29 BARRANC D’ALGENDAR This spectacular limestone gorge (barranc) has cliffs towering 50m high on either side in places. It starts just outside the village of Ferreries and twists through the landscape to the coastal resort of Cala Galdana with beautiful forests, dramatic narrow passes, and Bronze Age sites that bear testament to its long history. Well-known Cova Murada (39.9663, 3.9654) was a tomb for a nearby talaiot, while Cova des Càrritx was totally sealed by a rockfall until just 25 years ago; archaeologists have found unique funerary items here, including a boxwood comb and decorated bone containers holding ochredyed human hair, now in the museum in Ciutadella. From Me-20 roundabout W of Ferreries ,  take SW exit signed Barranc d’Algendar and follow for 3.6km, turn R in front of private

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entry) and the beaches beyond, this restaurant boasts the best views around. With a terrace overlooking the sea and traditional Menorcan dishes, it is very popular with locals, so book ahead to ensure a window seat. Ub la Binimel 1, 07740 Es Mercadal, ,  +34 971 359275 40.0491, 4.0543 32 CAS SUCRER DES MERCADAL Trading since 1884, this bakery in Mercadal has a well-earned reputation as the best place on the island for traditional pastries like the spiralled ensaimadas. Plaza Constitucion 11 (Carrer del General ,  Albertí), 07740 Es Mercadal, +34 971 375175 39.9886, 4.0930

XX 30 gates and continue 600m to car park at end. Walk down into the gorge and follow trail south as far as you like: it is 6km to the sea. 60–90 mins, 39.9808, 3.9742 7QzA 30 COVA DES COLOMS Also known as the Cathedral, this enormous cave has pillars and a second chamber at the rear and a 24m high ceiling that gives a truly cathedral-like acoustic. It was once a tomb, and human bones, ceramic vessels and bronze horns from 406BC were found here, but the last traces are long gone – as are the pigeons that gave the cave its other name. You can combine this with a hike to the sea at Platja de Binigaus (see entry). Drive SW from Es Migjorn Gran and ,  park at cemetery (39.9431, 4.0457). Walk on S on road for 1.2km, past the Hotel Rural Binigaus Vell, to turn L on the Camí de Cavalls signed Cova des Coloms and Platja de Binigaus (39.9355, 4.0378). This is a rough path, and you will need proper footwear. Hike steeply downhill for around 1km and look for signs painted on rocks for Cova des Coloms L, steeply uphill off main path (39.9331 4.0390). 30 mins, 39.9331, 4.0390 Q9vz

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slow food 31 RESTAURANT BINIMEL-LÀ At the top of the hill leading down from the car park to Platja de Binimel-là (see

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33 MOLI D’ES RACÓ Very popular with locals, this traditional restaurant is set in an old windmill, serves a wide range of Menorcan specialities on its renowned menu del dia and has a great, buzzy atmosphere. Carrer Major 53, 07740 Es Mercadal, ,  +34 971 375392 39.9875, 4.0913 34 MERCADAL THURSDAY MARKET From 7pm to midnight every Thursday in the summer, this market is a good place to find local cheeses, ham and wine. Plaça de Pare Camps, 07740 Es Mercadal ,  39.9873, 4.0939

chiringuitos 35 CHIRINGUITO ES BRUC When a restaurant is bustling with locals, you know it is going to be good. This busy chiringuito is right on the Platja de Sant Adeodato (see entry) at Sant Tomàs with a great view over the shore. The freshest seafood served and just perfect for long, lazy lunches. Platja de Sant Adeodato, 07749 Es ,  Migjorn Gran 39.9173, 4.0331 36 CHIRINGUITO PLATJA DE CAVALLERIA This tiny chiringuito is one of the only places for many miles to get a cold drink and somewhere to sit in the shade. A welcome stop on a long hike! Platja de Cavalleria car park, 07740 ,  Es Mercadal 40.0595, 4.0806

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places to stay 37 CAMPING S’ATALAIA Open from April to September, this simple campsite set in a forest is for tents only, and has tents to rent. There is plenty of space to string a hammock in the pine trees and pitch a tent in the shade, plus a shop, bar, barbecue pits, pool and the usual facilities. Carretera de Cala Galdana km 4.5, 07750 ,  Ferreries, +34 971 374232 39.9514, 3.9874

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38 CAMPING SON BOU Pitches, furnished tents and chalets. All the usual facilites, plus swimming pool, several sports and a playground make this a very family- friendly site. Carretera de Llucalari km 3.5, 07730 Alaior, ,  +34 971 372727 39.9193, 4.0892 39 SON TRIAY Simple family agroturismo on a dairy farm, but set in a grand old Neoclassical house with beautiful gardens and a pool.

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40 SES SUCRERES 27 This eco-conscious boutique hotel is a restored 19th-century house in the pedestrianised old town of Ferrieres. It has just six bedrooms, with eclectic and beautiful décor, and a rooftop terrace. Carrer Sant Joan 15, 07750 Ferreries ,  39.9833, 4.0097

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menorca east Our perfect weekend , Count how many species of birds you spot on the incredible trails around the S’Albufera des Grau lagoon , Climb to the Roman shrine in the Talaiot de Torellónet Vell and seek out the ancient basilica mosaics nearby , Swim in the turquoise waters of Cala Tortuga after hiking through the wild terrain of the northern headland , Kayak to the uninhabited Illa d’en Colom from Es Grau, explore the coves and wildlife , Snorkel in the narrow ravine of Cala Rafalet or try your hand at climbing overhangs with only water below you , Stride along the Camí de Cavalls and dip in all the beautiful beaches along the way from Es Grau to Cap de Favàritx , Jump off the rocks for a snorkel at Cala Binidalí after a long walk down the steps , Stargaze while staying in a 14th-century tower at the truly secluded Sa Torre Blanca , Feast feast on fresh fish and watch the sun set with sand under your toes at Bucaneros on Cala Binibeca

The north-east of Menorca is dominated by the Parc Natural de S’Albufera des Grau, a wildlife park that is the heart of the UNESCO biosphere reserve. The wonderfully diverse ecosystem here includes a huge lagoon, marshlands, beaches, dune systems, woodland and little islets, so this area is perfect for nature lovers. Booted eagle, Egyptian vulture, osprey, red kite, wood warbler and red crossbill are among the birds often seen here, and the Balearic lizard is found only within the reserve. The Camí de Cavalls trail runs right through the park along the coastline, giving a clear route to most of the beaches, and marked trails lead off from it to reach the lagoon and bird hides or viewpoints.

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Much of the coast here is uninhabited and can only be reached on foot or by boat, so it is a perfect place to find wild beaches. The section of the Camí de Cavalls between Cap de Favàritx and Es Grau takes around 3–4 hours and is popular with hikers, as it passes through some of the most beautiful landscape on the island and is flatter and easier to walk than other parts, but in places you can walk for kilometres and not see a single soul. You will pass through shady woodland with twisted old olive trees above or pine needles underfoot, and open scrubby landscape scented by wild rosemary and juniper bushes, and pass beaches of white sand or pebbles, tempting for a dip after a hike in the sunshine. There really are no facilities for many kilometres, so take plenty of water and food.

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The capital city Maó (or Mahón) lies on the east coast, along one of the largest natural harbours in the world, and was founded over 2,000 years ago. A rich history of different occupations by the Romans, Vikings, Moors, Spanish, Ottomans, French and British has left it with layers of culture surprising for an island with such a small population. It lends its name to Menorca’s most famous cheese, and possibly also to mayonnaise.

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The land south and west from here is more populated, with sleepy whitewashed resorts and villages, the wild limestone coastline occasionally punctuated by a beautiful little beach or a tiny dart-shaped cove ending in a scrap of white sand, flanked by huge cliffs. Roads meander past farms and forests, and everything operates at a relaxed pace.

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As with the rest of the island, the east has some wonderfully preserved Neolithic remains, most notably Cales Coves, where over 100 burial hypogea have been carved into the coastal cliffs, the largest necropolis on the island. Standing inside one of these tombs looking down into the perfectly clear water below you can feel transported back to a different time. Es Castellàs des Caparrot de Forma is another extraordinary necropolis, high up along the cliffs, with 23 burial chambers you can scramble to and sit within, and a breathtaking view all the way down the coastline. So many beautiful places to discover, especially if you are prepared to walk! 214

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northern coast 1 ARENAL DE SON SAURA Despite being on the edge of Son Parc resort, we found this large beach to be fairly calm even on a busy summer day. A perfect place to take a dip and relax with something from the chiringuito before or after a hike along the Camí de Cavalls, which runs right alongside the beach. A coast path leads to a couple of quieter coves nearby. Follow Me-7 N from Maó for about 16km, ,  turn R signed Son Parc and Arenal de Son Saura, follow 3km to a roundabout and bear L for Platja (brown signs point both ways here), turn L following beach sign after 400m, continue to beach car park at end. Follow path past chiringuito onto beach. 2 mins, 40.0331, 4.1617 q10 2 MACAR DE CALA PUDENT This quiet little pebbly cove gives way to beautiful sand the moment your feet hit the water. A stunning spot, just perfect for a refreshing swim. Park as for Arenal de Son Saura (see entry), ,  join the coastal path up the steps at W end and follow N for 1km. 20 mins, 40.0416, 4.1593 1-

3 CALA PUDENT This sandy cove with shallow water is a perfect little paradise and accessible only on foot along the coastal path. Enjoy snorkelling around the islets and rocks. Park as for Arenal de Son Saura (see entry), ,  join the coastal path up the steps at the W end and follow N for 1.2km, passing Macar de Cala Pudent (see entry). 25 mins, 40.0435, 4.1588 qh0124 CALA PRESILI This little beach, also called Capifort, is sheltered by rolling cliffs of beautiful bluegrey slate and the rugged Cap de Favàritx headland. It is sandy, and the dunes behind it are protected. From here you can walk south to a couple more beaches – you could even keep going all the way to Platja Es Grau (see entry), dipping in a string of coves along the way. Follow Me-7 from Maó N 7km, turn N onto ,  CF-1 signed Favàritx and follow 6km N towards the lighthouse. The final approach is a private road across finca de Son Camamil-la and the car park will be R after the gate. Walk on towards the lighthouse and turn R onto signed Camí de Cavalls (39.9968, 4.2567). Follow S about 600m and look for trail to beach L. 25 mins, 39.9924, 4.2547 zh1-

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XX 6 5 CALA TORTUGA Turquoise water and soft white sand make this beautiful, remote beach a true paradise. Behind the beach and protected sand dunes is the hidden coastal lagoon, Bassa de Morella, which brings plentiful birdlife to the area. Park and star t as for Cala Presili ,  (see entr y) but stay on Camí de Cavalls about another 400m and then follow it L towards the beach, ignoring the path straight ahead. 35 mins, 39.9886, 4.2550 z1-hqD

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XX 8 6 CALA MORELLA NOU These two dark, pebbly coves separated by a small headland are only accessible by foot along the Camí de Cavalls and coast path, but so worth it. Remote, wild and sheltered by a lovely deep pine forest. Park and start as for Cala Presili and walk ,  to Cala Tortuga (see entries). From far S end of Cala Tortuga, climb the steps to continue Camí de Cavalls. Walk for another 700m over headland and down through forest to beach signed L. 50 mins, 39.9829, 4.2582 z1-hq 7 PLATJA ES GRAU This beautiful beach in Parc Natural de S’Albufera des Grau (see entry) is perfect for young families, with calm water that is knee-deep for some distance and nearby parking and facilities. There are kayaks for hire, some great rocks to swim out to and explore, and in the middle Roca des Marbres, a large rock to clamber over and snorkel around. A path from the northern end leads through the forest to the lake. From here you can also walk north to a series of coves, and you could follow the Camí de Cavalls all the way up to Cala Preseli (see entry).

On Me-7 N from Maó, turn R at first ,  roundabout onto Me-5 and follow just over 6km to parking on outskir ts of Es Grau, R and L. Boardwalk to beach from parking L. 3 mins, 39.9503, 4.2657 qzK18 ES BOL LARG This quiet little spot sits hidden just behind overhanging rocks, perfect for shade and seclusion. Park as for Platja Es Grau (see entry) ,  walk to far N of beach to find the signed Camí de Cavalls trail heading N near the large rock; peek over the edge when you are up the little hill to see it nestled below, scramble down. 15 mins, 39.9523, 4.2640 1-EA 9 CALA EN VIDRIER Sweet little cove, smaller and quieter than Platja Es Grau. Picturesque surroundings and great snorkelling. Park as for Platja Es Grau (see entry) and ,  follow the signed Camí de Cavalls trail N from the far N end of the beach for about 180m, look for trail R down to beach. 25 mins, 39.9539, 4.2674 q1-

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10 CALA TAMARELLS DE SUD An idyllic, secluded bay just off the Camí de Cavalls, with perfectly turquoise water, white sand and great snorkelling around the rocks that flank the shore. A great alternative way to get here is to hire a kayak from Menorca en Kayak (Tramuntana 9, Es Grau, +34 669 097977) and paddle around the headland. Park as for Platja Es Grau (see entry) and ,  walk 800m on path from N end of beach; it is about 5 mins on from Cala En Vidrier (see entry), across the headland. 30 mins, 39.9584, 4.2629 z1hA-2

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11 CALA TAMARELLS DES NORD Wild and beautiful little cove, only accessible by foot, separated from Cala Tamarells de Sud (see entry) by a small headland and a short walk. You can walk around the larger rocky headland with the Torre de Rambla (see entry) then snorkel below, where the water is shallow and great for wildlife. Park as for Platja Es Grau (see entry) and ,  walk 1.3km on path from N end of beach, look for path R when you see the short tower on the headland. 40 mins, 39.961, 4.2631 A-1z

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12 CALA RAMBLES This beautiful beach is probably one of the quietest, an oasis of calm with the turquoise sea lapping at the shore, and cool pine forests around it. It lies almost at the midway point between Platja Es Grau (see entry) and Cap de Favàritx (see Cala Preseli entry), the two-road accessible endpoints of this stretch of coast. As such it is a good walk to reach it from either end, and quite a hilly climb across rough terrain from Es Grau. Park as for Platja Es Grau and walk ,  1.3km on path from N end of beach. It’s about 40 mins beyond Cala Tamarells des Nord (see entry). 90–120 mins, 39.9640, 4.2544 zhA01-

east coast 13 PLATJA DE MESQUIDA A lovely, sandy beach with headlands at either end, one of which has an 18th-century watchtower, Punta de sa Creueta, overlooking the beach. The other, known as Es Pa Glos, is home to one of the largest colonies of gulls and cormorants on the island and a good hike for panoramic views. The water becomes deep quite quickly, so take care with children.

XX 14 Follow Me-3 N from Maó for 2.5km then ,  turn L signed Sa Mesquida, follow another 2.5km down and through village, out to parking L as road rises. Follow path from end of road to beach. 2 mins, 39.9155, 4.2866 qK1 14 CALA RAFALET Not a conventional beach, but a narrow ravine leading around a corner from a narrow ribbon of sand and out to sea. The attraction is the eroded cliffs above the clear turquoise waters, perfect for exploring and snorkelling below. For climbers, the undercut area to the right of the inlet is a great spot to try a bit of deep water soloing. Follow Me-8 from roundabout S of Sant ,  Lluis 3km, turn L signed S’Algar and follow 1km. At roundabout on edge of resort, take second exit left and immediate right onto 1a Avenida. Follow over two roundabouts then turn L onto 5a Avenida. Follow to end and bear R to look for street parking on 7a Avenida coastal road. Cross step stile in stone wall at N end of parking (39.8399, 4.2998), follow trail about 300m turn R into woods at post 51; bit of a scramble down the hill, but ever so worth it. 10 mins, 39.8410, 4.2979 whvT-

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XX 17 15 CALÓ ROIG An absolutely tiny, rocky little cove situated below the impressive 18th century Torre d’Alcalfar. This is a great spot for snorkelling and exploring the coastline; you can take a walk up to the tower for panoramic views, but the inside is not accessible. Follow Me-8 from roundabout S of Sant ,  Lluis 4km into the village of Alcalfar. Find parking on streets and walk downhill to the beach. At S end pick up Camí de Cavalls trail (39.8289, 4.2920), follow approx 500m along the coast. 5 mins, 39.8255, 4.2940 -17A

southern coast 16 CALES COVES A simply stunning ravine leading out to the sea between towering limestone cliffs. The beach here is small and varies from pebbly to muddy, but it is a beautiful spot for snorkelling as the water is protected by the winding ravine and is very clear and calm. There are around 100 burial chambers in the cliffs, carved over 3,000 years ago. You can wander along the cliffs and enter some of them, but others have bars over.

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18 XX Follow Me-12 W out of Mahón, through ,  San Climent, 3.5km further, at the second roundabout, take the second exit signed Necrópolis de Calescoves and shortly after bear R onto smaller road following sign. Continue 1.5km to unsurfaced parking areas either side; it is possible to drive further but hard to turn and you may not get a space. Walk on about 850m to shore. 30 mins, 39.8648, 4.1468 9Qz117 CALA BINIDALÍ A steep hike down from the car park takes you through an archway to a lovely unspoilt cove. It can get busy in summer. Further around the headland, opposite Som Sis beach bar (see entry), is another set of steps down to a little boathouse with great snorkelling and rock jumping. On the Me-12 W from Maó, entering Sant ,  Climent turn L signed Bindalí and Biniparratx. Follow 4.3km to Binidalí, continue straight into village and turn L at end signed platja. Follow along seafront, bear L round and up the hill, and park near Som Sis bar. Path to beach signed at corner, steps to rock jumping unsigned opp bar. 10 mins, 39.8342, 4.1979 TqK1-

18 CALA DE BINIPARRATX A stunning little cove with a small sandy shore and bright turquoise water sheltered by cliffs on either side creating a deep, curving ravine. There are ancient cave dwellings in the cliffs on the right. Ideally arrive early: if the tiny car park is full there are no options. Start as for Binidalí (see entry) but at edge ,  of village turn L on Carrer des Carritx signed Binibèquer, continue 1km and look for rough, unsigned car park R (39.8362, 4.2036). Follow steep trail into ravine 200m to beach. 10 mins, 39.8335, 4.2028 -019 19 CALA BINIBECA (BINIBÈQUER) With soft sand and shallow water, this charming little family beach is popular but a great pitstop for a swim and some lunch when exploring the wilder beaches in the area. Great snorkelling and quiet spots if you continue around the headland a little way. The village, although relatively new, is charming. Follow Me-10 W from Sant Lluis 1.7km, turn ,  L signed Binibèquer Nou and follow 2.3km to Binibèquer Vell roundabout. Take third exit L onto Carrer de la Mar Mediterrania follow to Binibèquer Nou roundabout, take third exit L and look for two car parks R both with paths to beach. 5 mins, 39.8163, 4.2399 1qK-

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towers & castles 22 TORRE DE RAMBLA Also called Torre de Tamarells, this Britishbuilt defence tower from 1800 stands on the Es Colomar headland looking out towards Illa d’en Colom (see entry). Erosion by salt winds and waves have given it an extraordinary texture, looking much more ancient than it is; you can go inside, but it is in a bad state of repair. We prefer to view it from the sea, snorkelling around from the little patch of sand on the neck of the headland. From Platja Es Grau (see listing) walk to ,  far N of the beach to find the signed Camí de Cavalls trail heading N and walk N for around 1.3km, once down the very steep hill leave the trail when you see this spot and scramble down. The beach is Cala Tamarells des Nord (see entry). 25 mins, 39.9628, 4.2653 -0E

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wild islands 20 ILLA D’EN COLOM This island is part of the Nature Parc de S’Albufera des Grau (see entry) with a wild interior and a couple of beautiful beaches; you can hire a kayak or little boat in Platja Es Grau (see entry) to explore the coves and wildlife. Mostly uninhabited, it does have one house on it. Hire a kayak or SUP from Menorca en Kayak ,  (Tramuntana 9, Es Grau, +34 669 097977) who can help you plan a trip, give advice on good locations and supply specialist gear. They also run expeditions for the less experienced. The house is at 39.9585, 4.2756. 4 hours, 39.9578, 4.2748 `q4D12

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21 ILLA DE L’AIRE This tiny, uninhabited island is home to the Balearic lizard or sargantana negra, giving it the nickname ‘lizard island’. It is also an important island for migrating birds and seabirds. A lighthouse built in 1860 stands tall on the cliffs. Hire a SUP or kayak from SUPAire Punta ,  Prima (Carrer des Pins 37, 07713 Punta Prima, +34 619 573211) who can advise you on local routes, including the island. 4 hours, 39.8011, 4.2897 `q4D12

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23 FAR DE FAVÀRITX An iconic black-and-white striped working lighthouse built in the early 1900s, set in isolation on an almost lunar landscape of rocks in an area that is protected and wild. Wonderful views, and dramatic light morning or evening. For the last few years, access from June to ,  October has been by shuttle bus from Maó, taxi or bicycle only, pending the opening of a proper car park. Once this is open, or out of season, follow Me-7 from Maó N 7km, turn N onto CF-1 signed Favàritx and follow 6km N towards the lighthouse. The final approach is a private road across finca de Son Camamil-la and the car park will be R after the gate. Walk on to lighthouse at end. 20 mins, 39.9970, 4.2666 z& 24 FORTALESA DE ISABEL II An imposing and exceptionally wellpreserved 19th-century fortress with excellent viewpoints along the La Mola peninsula. Paid entry allows you to explore the massive ramparts and buildings, gun emplacements and labyrinthine underground spaces; there are even night tours. Sturdy footwear is best for exploring here. Follow Me-3 E from Maó docks 8km to the ,  end of the headland. 4 hours, 39.8732, 4.3148 £q

ancient sites 25 TALAIOT DE TORELLÓNET VELL At 24m across, this remarkable late Bronze Age tower is one of the largest still standing

27 XX on the island. A shrine was made in the Roman era inside the doorway at the top, and Roman lamps and pottery were found here. The remains of a second smaller talaiot and water catchment system stand to the southwest, and bronze figures, remains of houses and hypogea nearby show the settlement here was the largest in the area. Nearby a fine mosaic floor is almost all that remains of the pre-7th century Basilica des Fornas de Torrelló, also worth a look. Heading W on Me-12 W from Maó around ,  500m after Me-14 roundabout turn R onto Torelló Vell country road. Follow this road 650m to the talaiot L following Poblat talaiòtic de Torelló sign. No parking space by talaiot; park at basilica entrance on R 350m further on (39.8836, 4.2220). 5 mins, 39.8807, 4.2206 78Q 26 TREPUCÓ TALAIOTIC VILLAGE This ancient site and its taula enclosure are among the largest on the island – the taula is the tallest you will find – and well worth a visit. The taula and two talaiots from 700–1000BC still stand, along with parts of the original wall, houses with central patios, and a star-shaped fortification built in the 18th century. Especially beautiful at sunset.

Purple signs all the way from roundabout ,  on RM to S of Maó (39.8819, 4.2644) follow Camí Trepuco 750m, bear L then after 100m turn R onto Camí Vell de St Lluis, parking R after 150m. 2 mins, 39.8738, 4.2653 78Q 27 ES CASTELLÀS DES CAPARROT DE FORMA These two fabulous ancient sites lie next to Es Canutells, a sleepy fishing village. Atop a small promontory are fascinating ruins of a late Bronze Age settlement, with a defensive wall, houses and cistern. Even more exciting are the Iron Age necropolis of 23 hypogea in the cliffs below and opposite. Scrambly paths lead down from the sign, and you can enter the tombs and look down into the sea and along the coastline, but be careful! On the Me-12 W from Maó, entering Sant ,  Climent turn L signed Bindalí and Biniparratx. Follow 2.6km, turn R signed Es Canutells. Follow to T junction where site is signed L and follow around edge of village, keeping L, about 800m until road becomes dirt track at the end of the row of white buildings. Park L here and walk along track to headland, signs and a small track heading along cliff edge W to caves. 5 mins, 39.8440, 4.1748 78QEWA9

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32 BUCANEROS This simple little chiringuito right on the beach is an institution. It has a great atmosphere, and is widely known as Santiago’s after the legend who ran it for years. Wander around the tiny traditional alleyways of the village, which is new but feels old, then follow your nose to the shore. Carrer de sa Platja de Ponent 15, 07711 ,  Binibèquer 39.8163, 4.2405

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wetlands & forests 28 PARC NATURAL DE S’ALBUFERA DES GRAU Spanning over 5,000 hectares of varied wetlands, marshlands, dunes, olive forests and a lagoon, this park is the heart of the Biosphere Reserve. A wonderful place to walk and spot birds, with well-signed trails and hides. There are over 8,000 species to see, including flamingo, heron, osprey and egrets. On the Me-7 shortly after leaving Maó, take ,  the Me-5 to Es Grau and after 3.5km the park is signed L. Follow 1km to car park at visitor centre and for trails. There are also trails to the lagoon from Platja Es Grau (see entry). 4 hours, 39.9398, 4.2515 D4zcq

31 XX

slow food 29 ES MOLI DE FOC An old cereal mill makes an atmospheric location for this restaurant, frequented by locals for the typical rice dishes. It is worth booking a table in advance. Carrer de Sant Llorenç 65, 07712 Sant ,  Climent, +34 971 153222 39.8714, 4.2071

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30 RESTAURANTE CAP ROIG For fresh paella or local fish with superb sea views from its clifftop location, this restaurant is a Menorcan institution. Make sure you book a sea view table in advance. Carretera sa Mesquida 13, 07701 Sa ,  Mesquida, +34 971 188383 39.9104, 4.2914

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31 BAR ES GRAU A simple chiringuito with a fabulous view of the beach from tables shaded by trees in the charming fishing village of Es Grau. This is a great place to stop for a cool drink and a simple meal or gelato when exploring the coast or the natural park. Plaça de Mestre Jaume 13, 07701 Es Grau ,  39.9495, 4.2678

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Menorca East

33 BAR SOM SIS Great little beach bar perched up on the cliffs above the sea with amazing views. It is very much a locals’ place, so be prepared to make an effort with the language here, as there is not always someone Englishspeaking on duty! Carrer de sa Nastre 147, 07712 Binidalí ,  39.8344, 4.1970 34 BINIFADET A family winery where you can book a tasting tour and see all the stages of growing and production, have a meal in the restaurant and take home a few bottles to enjoy after. The family behind this project also revived the iconic Bucaneros chiringuito (see entry). Carretera Sant Lluís-Es Castell, km 0.5, ,  07710 Sant Lluis, +34 971 150715 39.8540, 4.2628 35 MERCAT DES PEIX & MERCADO CLAUSTRO DEL CARMEN Both of these markets, almost next to each other, are worth visiting for the many stalls selling fish, tapas, and local charcuterie, wine and cheese. You can pick up an ensaimada pastry at the panaderia between them on the way from one to the other. Plaça del Carme, 07701 Maó ,  39.8889, 4.2656

places to stay 36 ALCAUFAR VELL This lovely 400-year-old rural hotel has retained the charm of the original farmhouse. It has a recommended restaurant, knowledgeable staff, and you can borrow bikes to explore. Carretera de Cala Alcaufar, km 8.2, 07710 ,  Sant Lluis, +34 971 151874 39.8342, 4.2779 37 SA TORRE BLANCA These rustic apartments are in a 14thcentury tower that even has a talaiot

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and taula right next door, Sa Torreta de Tramuntana, with fabulous views, which can be explored on Thursdays. Its blissfully quiet location is on a farm within the Nature Parc de S’Albufera des Grau (see entry), and near the hard-to-reach beaches off the Camí de Cavalls. Calle Isabel II 21 2-2, 07701 Mahón, ,  +34 971 185296 39.9661, 4.2416

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is simple but has everything you need in a wonderful location, from lovely fish restaurants nearby, to a dip in the sea next to the harbour. Binibeca Vell Carrer 51, 11A, 07711 ,  Binibequer 39.8184, 4.2358 39 HOTEL HEVRESAC An eclectic and eco-conscious boutique hotel of just eight rooms in the heart of Maó. With beautiful tiled floors, original art on the walls, e-bike rental and yoga mats available, this is the second venture from the people who created Ses Sucreres in Ferreries (see Menorca Central).

21

Anuncivay 20–San Fernando 1, 07702 Maó, ,  +34 655 997349 39.8878, 4.2662 40 HOTEL BINIAROCCA This small hotel is in a renovated 18th-century farmhouse, with the traditional windows and red tiled floors still in place, set in gardens enclosed by typical Menorcan stone walls and filled with local plants. Massage and exercise classes are offered onsite, along with a fine restaurant and two pools, one by the bar. Idyllic. Camí Vell 57, Sant Lluís, 07710 Menorca, ,  +34 971 150059 39.8614, 4.2672

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Wild Guide Balearic Islands Hidden adventures in Mallorca, Menorca, Ibiza & Formentera Words: Anna Deacon & Lizzie Graham Photos: Anna Deacon & Lizzie Graham & those credited Editing: Candida Frith-Macdonald Layout & Proofreading: Rae Malenoir Distribution: Central Books Ltd 50, Freshwater Road Dagenham, RM8 1RX 020 8525 8800 [email protected] Published by: Wild Things Publishing Ltd. Freshford, Bath, BA2 7WG Contact: hello@ wildthingspublishing.com

the award-winning, bestselling adventure travel series, also available as iPhone and Android apps.

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Photo credits / copyrights: Copyright @ 2022 Anna Deacon & Lizzie Graham except the following images reproduced under with permission (given as chapter-listing-listing etc, or as page number when no listing number is present): Gaston Morello Stiglich 2-3,8,9,10,13,14,15,20,22,34, 3-11, 4- 1,2,3,5,8,9; Marie-Luisa Muller-Rochholz p20. 4- 3,4,5,6. 6-5,6,7,8. 7-9,10,11,13; Alina Lohmann p14, p92, 4-13,22, 29,30,31, 7-18,19,33, 8-30 9-18,30,36; Juan Jose Alabern Martinolich p36, p38. 1-7,8,13,26,27 2-12; John Weller 2-11, 3-7, 6-23, 7-14, 11-7,10; Andrea Gabriella Ipuche Garland 6-30, 39, 8-10,13,19; Experience Mallorca p6, 6-37, 7-12, 8-21, 9-41; Margarita Negre Ferriol 4-32, 7-21,22,23; Juan Contesti Murci p35, 3-4, 4-28, 7-24; Michael Stivarello p18,p28, p66, 7-1,25; Cristina Santos Villarubia, p2,p8, 3-6, 25; Juan Andres Perdomo 7-29,30, 8-25; Adventure Vans 4-14 top, 8-7, 10-13; Majika Vidora, 4-14bottom, 15,16; Anne Korsch- P, 4-7; Gisella Abella Ruiz 6-24,26; Eric Mas p12. 12-14; Jamie Graham- 9-29; Amante 3-9; Xavier Marques Triay-11-23; SUPAire Menorca- 12,21; Christopher Strassler (ccbysa) p100 middle; Radnor/ istock p106 bottom.) Author acknowledgements: This book is dedicated to our fabulous Mum Helen whose research, support and writing was integral to this book. Special thanks to Gaston, Lui, Alina, Annie and Juan for joining us on our adventures. Thanks to the Natura Cavall team for igniting a passion for the wild side of the islands and for giving more insight into the local culture, flora and fauna. Thank you to Daniel and Tania from Wild Things for commissioning us to write this book, we are so grateful to you for all the support and faith in us. Also to the fabulous and very patient Candida and Rae for editing and design. Thanks to our partners Sergi & Rob, and our children Mateu, Jaume, Danny, Lily and Finlay for being so patient and supportive. Special love to our Dad Addy & brother Jamie. Health, Safety and Responsibility: The activities in this book have risks and can be dangerous. The locations may be on private land and permission may need to be sought. While the authors and publishers have gone to great lengths to ensure the accuracy of the information herein they will not be held legally or financially responsible for any accident, injury, loss or inconvenience sustained as a result of the information or advice contained in this book.

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