Trekking in Mallorca 9781852848507, 1852848502

Citation preview

TREKKING IN MALLORCA

TREKKING IN MALLORCA GR221 – THE DRYSTONE ROUTE THROUGH THE SERRA DE TRAMUNTANA by Paddy Dillon

JUNIPER HOUSE, MURLEY MOSS, OXENHOLME ROAD, KENDAL, CUMBRIA LA9 7RL www.cicerone.co.uk

© Paddy Dillon 2017 Second edition 2017 ISBN-13: 978 1 85284 850 7 Reprinted 2021, 2022 (with updates) First edition 2009 Printed by Severn, Gloucester, on responsibly sourced paper. A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. All photographs are by the author unless otherwise stated. Base for route maps © Editorial Alpina, SL Additional route mapping by Lovell Johns www.lovelljohns.com

Updates to this Guide While every effort is made by our authors to ensure the accuracy of guidebooks as they go to print, changes can occur during the lifetime of an edition. Any updates that we know of for this guide will be on the Cicerone website (www.cicerone.co.uk/850/updates), so please check before planning your trip. We also advise that you check information about such things as transport, accommodation and shops locally. Even rights of way can be altered over time. We are always grateful for information about any discrepancies between a guidebook and the facts on the ground, sent by email to [email protected] or by post to Cicerone, Juniper House, Murley Moss, Oxenholme Road, Kendal, LA9 7RL. Register your book: To sign up to receive free updates, special offers and GPX files where available, register your book at www.cicerone.co.uk.

Front cover: La Trapa and Sa Dragonera (Stage 2)

CONTENTS Map key. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Serra de Tramuntana. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . GR221 – Ruta de Pedra en Sec. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Brief history of Mallorca. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Plants and wildlife . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Travel to Mallorca. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Travel around Mallorca. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . When to go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Accommodation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Language. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Money. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Food and drink. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Water. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Walking the GR221. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Emergencies. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Using this guide. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

11 12 12 13 18 21 22 24 25 28 29 29 30 31 35 35

GR221 – THE DRYSTONE ROUTE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Stage 1 Port d’Andratx to Sant Elm. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Stage 2 Sant Elm to Ses Fontanelles. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Stage 3 Ses Fontanelles to Estellencs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Stage 4 Estellencs to Esporles. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 Stage 5 Esporles to Valldemossa. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 Stage 6 Valldemossa to Deià. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Stage 7 Deià to Sóller . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 Stage 8 Sóller to Tossals Verds. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 Stage 9 Tossals Verds to Lluc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111 Stage 10 Lluc to Pollença and Puig de Maria. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 ALTERNATIVES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Alternative start A s’Arracó to Ses Fontanelles. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Alternative start B es Capdellà to Estellencs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Alternative start C Calvià to Estellencs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Alternative finish D Sóller to Cala Tuent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

133 134 140 149 160

Alternative finish E Tossals Verds to Alaró or Orient. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168 Alternative finish F Lluc to Caimari via GR222. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177 Alternative finish G Pollença to Port de Pollença. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183 Appendix A Route summary table. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Appendix B Glossary. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Appendix C Public transport . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Appendix D Accommodation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Appendix E Useful contacts. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

187 189 202 205 211

Warning Mountain walking can be a dangerous activity carrying a risk of personal injury or death. It should be undertaken only by those with a full understanding of the risks and with the training and experience to evaluate them. While every care and effort has been taken in the preparation of this guide, the user should be aware that conditions can be highly variable and can change quickly, materially affecting the seriousness of a mountain walk. Therefore, except for any liability which cannot be excluded by law, neither Cicerone nor the author accept liability for damage of any nature (including damage to property, personal injury or death) arising directly or indirectly from the information in this book. To call out the Mountain Rescue, ring the European emergency number 112: this will connect you via any available network. Once connected to the emergency operator, ask for the police. (Only to be used in an emergency) Six blasts on a whistle (and flashes with a torch after dark) spaced evenly for one minute, followed by a minute’s pause. Repeat until an answer is received. The response is three signals per minute followed by a minute’s pause.

Jaume Tort, field researcher for the Editorial Alpina mapping company, on Pas Vermell (Stage 1). Cliffs rise above forested slopes on the descent from Coma d’en Vidal (Stage 3)

7

Trekking in Mallorca

Map Key main route

lighthouse/telecoms mast

alternative route

church or hermitage/ cemetery/cross

main route of GR221 on alternative start/finish maps

archaeological site ruined castle/watchtower

provisional route

bunker/stone cattle pen

start point/finish point

stream/gorge

start/finish point

lake

alternative finish point

marshland

dual carriageway

water source/well or drinking trough cave

main road local road

hotel

paved track

restaurant

dirt track

museum

footpath

information centre

high-tension line

tourist office

town boundary

hospital

limit of protected area

viewpoint

parking area

point of interest

village centre

bus stop

building/ruin

picnic site

N

forest brushwood and meadow farmland/rock

8

0

0.5 km

Walkers check a GR221 map-board at Cúber (Stage 8)

9

Trekking in Mallorca

Rampant flowers near es Capdella, with Puig de Galatzó rising beyond

10

INTRODUCTION

The Camí des Correu runs through dense holm oak woodland (Stage 5)

Mallorca is the largest of the Balearic Islands, basking in sunny splendour in the Mediterranean between Spain and Algeria. It has been a favourite destination for sun-starved northern Europeans for many decades. While beach holidays remain popular, more and more visitors seek the quieter pleasures of rural Mallorca, especially taking opportunities to explore the island’s most rugged mountain range, the Serra de Tramuntana. In the high mountains there is more shade among the evergreen oak and pines, with cooling breezes to temper the heat of the sun. Away from the bustling resorts the pace of life in the mountain villages is more sedate and relaxing. Almond trees burst into blossom, oranges ripen in the sun

and vineyards yield heavy bunches of grapes. Kid goats bleat plaintively, often unseen among the undergrowth, while bongling bells alert shepherds to the location of their free-range sheep and cattle. Every so often, emerging from the forests, walkers discover the sun-scorched façades of palatial country mansions, wayside ermitas and little casetas. In a sense, the visitor who is prepared to walk can forget everything they’ve ever heard about Mallorca and start afresh by making new discoveries every day, around every corner. As walking became more and more popular over the years and guidebooks proliferated in many languages, the island authorities began to purchase some extensive rural estates, 11

Trekking in Mallorca protecting them from development and marking paths and tracks for walkers. It was only a matter of time before they turned their attention to the creation of a long-distance walking route. SERRA DE TRAMUNTANA

Serra de Tramuntana translates as ‘Mountains of the North’, and they form an incredibly rugged range stretching all the way along the northern flank of Mallorca. The Paratge Natural de la Serra de Tramuntana, or Nature Area of the Serra de Tramuntana, was designated in 2007, covering an area of approximately 625 square kilometres (240 square miles). Although the mountains are predominantly limestone, the coastline often features a complex mix of rock types. Pine forests and extensive holm oak woodlands abound, with cultivated areas featuring olive groves, citrus groves and nut groves. Terraced slopes near the towns and villages produce abundant crops, while bare, rocky mountainsides are colonised by tough plants that form dense maquis, or patchy garigue formations. These rugged mountains form the backdrop for trekking through Mallorca. Around 90 per cent of the Serra de Tramuntana is private property, and many regular walkers can tell tales about access problems. On the other hand, every few years extensive mountain estates come onto the market and some of these have been purchased and opened to the public. Some of the 12

most notable acquisitions and recreational areas, from west to east, include: Finca Galatzó, Sa Coma d’en Vidal, Son Fortuny, Planícia, Son Moragues, Cúber and Menut. There are plenty of places where walkers are welcome, or at least tolerated, and the provision of the long-distance GR221 is a splendid way to trek all the way through the Serra de Tramuntana from end to end. GR221 – RUTA DE PEDRA EN SEC

The GR221 is also known as the Ruta de Pedra en Sec, or the Drystone Route. It was created by the Consell de Mallorca, or more specifically the Department de Natura i Medi Ambient, with input from local councils. While the eastern and central parts are well-signposted and fully waymarked, there is still some work to be done on the western parts, as well as on some of the alternative routes. Some old paths high in the mountains have been completely rebuilt at considerable expense, and one very popular path is protected along with its landscape as a site of cultural interest. The main route measures around 140km (87 miles) and is split into ten daily stages in this guidebook. However, there are half a dozen major variant routes, allowing several alternative start and finish points. Most of the mountainous, wellwooded Serra de Tramuntana is made of limestone, which has provided

Brief history of Mallorca the raw material to build all kinds of structures from humble huts to splendid palaces and churches. The limestone readily breaks into blocks, and uses can be found even for broken chippings. It can be burnt to produce lime for mortar or whitewash. Place one lump of limestone carefully on top of another and all manner of drystone constructions are possible. Trekking the GR221 involves walking on the bare limestone bedrock of Mallorca, or following old stone-paved paths through the mountains. Massive drystone buttresses, or marges, hold cultivation terraces in place on steep mountainsides. Stone channels, or canaletes, carry water to where it is needed. Strange stone structures encountered along the way Looking from Puig de Maria, across Pollença, back to Calvari (Stage 10 extension)

include large limekilns and igloo-like bread ovens. Circular sitges, or charcoal burning platforms, often have the crude stone hut of a carboner, or charcoal burner, alongside. There are drystone walls, cairns and stone-lined snow-pits on the high mountains, all created from limestone blocks. In effect, the GR221 is a celebration of the outdoor life and backbreaking labour of the mountains of Mallorca, as well as being a scenic and interesting route. The GR221 visits several attractive little mountain villages, as well as passing through a couple of fine towns, often following old mule paths from one to another. The villages generally provide good accommodation and offer a selection of bars and restaurants, as well as a couple of shops stocking provisions. They also have good bus services, allowing trekkers to join or leave the route, or even commute to and from the route from a base far away. A splendid range of services is available along the route, and this guidebook contains all the details required to follow the GR221 through the mountains over a period of one or two weeks. BRIEF HISTORY OF MALLORCA

Mallorca has been inhabited for more than 6000 years, when the earliest settlers lived in caves, hunted and kept animals, made stone tools and employed certain rituals when burying their dead. Around 4000 years 13

Trekking in Mallorca ago, stone buildings and large towers, or talaiots, were constructed, suggesting highly organised societies working together for the common good, while clearly engaging in serious disputes with their neighbours. The Carthaginians established trading posts and often recruited local people to defend them. Most of the ports on the island had their origins around this time. The Romans invaded Mallorca in 123bc, but much of their work was later destroyed by Vandals from North Africa. After the breakup of the Roman Empire, the Byzantine general Belisarius dealt with the Vandals, and the Balearic islands were linked with what is now Tunisia. As part of the Byzantine Empire, Mallorca again became a trading post protected by military might. Arab raids commenced in ad707. Arab settlers profoundly influenced the development of agriculture. The legacy of these times is recalled in placenames – Bini means ‘house of’, as in Binibassi and Biniaraix. In the city of Palma the Moorish arches of the Almudaina palace and the Arab baths can still be seen. In 1229 Jaume I of Aragon, ‘The Conqueror’, led a fleet of 150 ships and an army of 16,000 men to Mallorca. Their intention was to land at Port de Pollença, but they were prevented from doing so by storms so they sheltered in the lee of Sa Dragonera and later landed at Santa Ponça. The re-conquest was completed in 1230, but this didn’t lead 14

to peaceful times. Disputes between Jaume’s sons, passed on to their sons and heirs, led to successive invasions, but the royal line continued through Jaume II and Jaume III, the latter being killed in battle in 1349. The reign of independent kings ended, and Aragon took direct control of the island. Mallorca’s chequered history continued with invasions, rebellions and natural disasters such as earthquakes, floods, and outbreaks of cholera and bubonic plague. Watchtowers, or talaies, were built between 1550 and 1650 on high vantage points, so that invaders and pirates could be spotted in good time. In 1716 Mallorca finally lost the title of kingdom and became a province of Spain. Neighbouring islands had similarly convoluted histories, with Menorca spending the best part of the 18th century as a British possession. In the 20th century, the Catalan language was suppressed under Franco’s dictatorship, but has since flourished and is now very evident throughout Mallorca. Mountain heritage The GR221 highlights the heritage of the mountains, and especially the built heritage, which often uses nothing more basic than roughly hewn lumps of limestone. On the lower cultivated slopes, the terraces are held in place by huge drystone buttresses and watered by stone-lined channels. Water may be stored in tanks (cisternas), or small underground reservoirs (aljubs), all built of stone.

Brief history of Mallorca Snow-pits are found on many of Mallorca’s highest mountains

Look out for large stone-lined pits, which are limekilns (forns de calç), on the lower wooded slopes, where fuel was readily available. On the highest mountainsides, larger and deeper stone-lined snow-pits (cases de sa neu) were used for storing snow and ice. In dense holm oak woodland look out for the dark, flat, circular, moss-grown remains of the charcoal burning platforms – trekkers sometimes use these as wild-camp sites, but it is very difficult to get pegs into the hard-baked ground. Somewhere nearby will be the low remains of the circular huts of the charcoal burner. Stone-built outdoor bread ovens are also likely to be spotted nearby, while drystone walls and cairns abound almost everywhere.

Snow collecting The highest paths on Mallorca were built by snow collectors (nevaters). Snow was collected to make ice for use in the summer and conserved in snow-pits (cases de sa neu). These are found scattered around Puig Major, Puig de Massanella, Puig Tomir, Es Teix and Serra d’Alfàbia, mostly above 900m (2950ft). The pits were usually circular, oval, or occasionally rectangular, partly or wholly below ground level. When the mountains were covered with snow, groups of men went up to gather it into baskets. Flat platforms were made and cleared of vegetation, where the snow was arranged in layers and trampled down hard to pack it into ice, in time to the following rhyme: 15

Trekking in Mallorca Pitgen sa neu, pitgen sa neu, i tots estan dins ses cases! Peguen potades, peguen potades, en Toni, en Xisco, en Juan i n’Andreu. Tramp the snow, tramp the snow, and throw it in the pit! Beat it down, beat it down, on Tony, Harry, John and Andrew.

to be imported from the mainland, but in glut years it was exported to neighbouring Menorca. The last time a snow-pit was used was in 1925 on Puig de Massanella. The industry was killed stone-dead by the advent of modern refrigeration techniques.

The packed snow was put into the pit and each layer was covered with càrritx, a tall pampas-like grass, to make it easier to split the blocks later. When the pit was full it was covered with ashes, branches and more càrritx, then carefully guarded. On summer nights blocks of ice were taken down on mules to the villages and towns. It was not only used for ice creams and cooling drinks, but also for medicinal preparations. The local authority controlled the price and a tax was fixed on it. Sometimes ice had

Charcoal burning Complex networks of paths were made by charcoal burners. Almost every evergreen oakwood was once used for the production of charcoal. Charcoal burning hearths are flat circular areas, often ringed by stones and now covered with bright green moss. They often serve as landmarks in the route descriptions in this guidebook. They are referred to as ‘sitges’ (singular sitja). Charcoal burning lasted until butane gas became popular in the 1920s, although in some areas

A sitja is a circular area where charcoal was produced

16

Brief history of Mallorca production lasted a while longer. Charcoal was used specifically for cooking, being preferred over wood because it was cleaner and gave a steadier heat. Carboners started work in April, living and working all summer in the woods with their families. They had to watch their hearths carefully, as charcoal burning was a delicate operation and everything could be ruined in a moment of neglect. The idea was to carbonise the wood, not burn it to ash. Carboners lived in simple, circular stone huts, roofed with branches and grass. The remains of huts, as well as modern reconstructions, are often seen in the woods, along with igloolike stone bread ovens nearby. Axes and enormous two-handed saws were used to fell large oaks, of a diameter stipulated by the landowner.

Each carboner had his own area, or ranxo. A circular site was prepared, with stones carefully arranged so that the air intake was limited, causing the wood to carbonise without igniting it. Logs and branches were arranged in a dome, leaving a narrow central chimney. Gravel and clay were heaped over it, and a ladder was used to reach the chimney, so that the carboner could start the firing process. The weight of the wood was reduced by 75–80 per cent and each firing lasted up to 12 days. Sieved earth was used for quenching and the covering was then removed. The hot charcoal was extracted with a shovel and rake, and an average burn could produce around 2800 kilos (2¾ tons) of produce. Once cool, the charcoal pieces were graded, loaded onto mules and taken to towns and villages

A restored carboner’s hut, where a charcoal burner would have lived

17

Trekking in Mallorca for sale. Bark from the oak trees was also collected and used for tanning. Lime burning Limekilns are seen throughout the woodlands in the mountains. They are quite different from those seen in Britain, as they lack a draw-hole at the bottom, and are simply deep, stonelined pits. Great heat was needed to split the calcium carbonate (CaCO³) into calcium oxide (CaO) and carbon dioxide (CO²), so a plentiful supply of wood was necessary. Although a vast amount of limestone is available, the stones used to produce lime were always chosen very carefully, and were referred to as pedra viva or ‘living stones’. At the base of the pit, a dome was built of large stones with gaps left between them for aeration. Above the dome, more stones were built up, and the spaces around the sides of the kiln were filled with the actual stones that were to be converted into lime. The interior was filled with wood and the top of the kiln was covered with earth. The fire was lit and kept burning for up to two weeks, with more wood added continually. Huge quantities of wood were needed – up to 155,000 kilos (150 tons) – leading to devastation of the forests and producing as little as 10,000 kilos (10 tons) of lime. It was very hard work and it brought little financial reward. According to an old proverb, ‘qui fa calç, va descalç’, or ‘he who makes lime goes barefoot’. Lime was used for the annual 18

whitewashing of houses and also for making mortar. PLANTS AND WILDLIFE

Trees, shrubs and flowers Trees on Mallorca come in four main types – pines, oaks, olives and palms – but there are also several minor types. Overall, the forests and woodlands are green and leafy throughout the year owing to the predominance of evergreen species. Abundant Aleppo pines can grow almost anywhere from sea level to 1000m (3280ft). They usually grow tall and straight, but can be twisted in exposed locations. Holm oaks are the commonest of the evergreen oaks. They grow in dense woodlands and Rock rose – one of many varieties of cistus found among the scrub

Plants and wildlife

Pines are common along the route, but many suffer from fire damage

were exploited for the production of charcoal. Olives may have grown wild on Mallorca before being cultivated. Some of the thickest and most gnarled specimens are over 1000 years old. Dwarf fan palms grow mostly at lower elevations, but are abundant around the start of the GR221. Other common trees include the strawberry tree, with its strange edible fruit, and the carob which produces distinctive pods that are high in sugar and contain tooth-breaking seeds. Citrus fruits, oranges and lemons, are picked around January and are most abundant around Sóller. Almond trees blossom pink and white around February, and were first planted on a large scale in 1765.

Woody shrubs include various species of broom, including some that bristle with thorns, blazing with yellow flowers in March and April. The resin-scented lentisk grows almost anywhere, and aromatic rosemary is also common. Heather tends to form feathery clumps and some species are like small trees. Plants such as amaryllis and asphodels thrive in rocky, barren places, but many other flowering plants manage to eke out an existence. There are Mallorcan varieties of St John’s Wort, for example, and several species of cistus. Two species of spiny plants, despite being quite separate, are both referred to as coixinets de monja or ‘nuns’ sewing cushions’. Another spiny plant is smilax, known locally as aritja, giving rise to the placename aritges. Shrubby euphorbias, or spurges, contain a milky, latex sap, and some bushy species are referred to as tree spurges. Delightful little flowers include tiny crocuses and cyclamens, sometimes appearing to grow from bare rock, but actually rooted in tiny crevices. Most open mountainsides, as well as sunny spots inside woods and forests, may be covered with a tall pampas-like grass, Ampelodesmus mauritanica, which is best referred to by its common name of càrritx. It looks innocuous from a distance but can prove troublesome on closer acquaintance. Avoid stepping on its long fronds with one foot, which can form a loop, tripping walkers as they 19

Trekking in Mallorca bring their next foot forward. Get into the habit of high-stepping past càrritx to avoid tripping. Animals Whatever large mammals once roamed Mallorca, only feral goats remain, along with domesticated sheep, a few cattle and fewer pigs. Bells draw attention to farm stock foraging on the mountainsides. Signs reading ‘Big Game Hunting’ might seem alarming, but they refer to the hunting of feral goats, which is permitted on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays from October to February. Hunters are unlikely to shoot across popular paths, but walkers should be aware of their presence. In the unlikely event that you find yourself too close to a shooting party, yell loudly in any language!

Most of the mammals native to the island are small, including pine martens, weasels, hedgehogs, bats, hares, rabbits and rodents, and many of them are hunted by birds of prey. Snakes are only rarely spotted and should cause no concern to walkers. Geckos are unlikely to be seen, except by those keeping a keen watch. Frogs and toads may be common in wellwatered areas, and they are notable near the large reservoirs at Cúber and Gorg Blau. Snails can be easy to spot because of their distictive shells. Insect life includes abundant butterflies in spring and summer, and even more species of moths. In the hot summer months cicadas and grasshoppers chirp and whir in the vegetation. A notable ‘pest’ insect is the pine processionary moth. The female lays up to 200 eggs, which hatch into

Sheep grazing among old orchards on the descent to Son Fortuny (Alternative start C)

20

Travel to Mallorca voracious caterpillars that can cause great damage to trees. They live in dense, spherical webs and move to new foraging areas by marching noseto-tail, thus giving rise to their name. Don’t handle them, as they are covered in hairs that can irritate the skin. They are constantly monitored and controlled using pheromone traps. Bird watching Serious bird watchers should get in touch with the local experts, the Grup Ornitològic Balear (GOB), www. gobmallorca.com. GOB has long been involved in renovating an old building as a refugi at La Trapa, above Sant Elm. Unfortunately, construction has stalled and its future is in doubt. Other Mallorcans have a passion for hunting birds, especially thrushes, which cause a lot of damage to olive groves. Shooting and netting take place from the end of August to the end of January, but this should not inconvenience walkers as it usually occurs in the evenings. Most species of birds are protected. The black vulture is unmistakeable when seen above remote mountains. Numbers dropped alarmingly in the last century and a programme was set up to assist their recovery. This involves minimising disturbance, leaving carrion out for them, setting up breeding programmes and introducing black vultures from other areas. The breeding season is exceptionally long, extending from January through to July. One stretch of the GR221 was planned to

climb above Valldemossa, through an area frequented by black vultures. Permits are now required to walk in that area, so the projected course of the GR221 has been shifted onto other paths. Black vultures are more usually seen over the Serra de Tramuntana between Sóller and Pollença. Raptors include red kites, peregrines, kestrels and booted eagles. Harriers are occasional visitors, while ospreys may be seen at the large reservoirs at Cúber and Gorg Blau. Eleanora’s falcon breeds along the northern coastal cliffs. Hoopoes are eagerly spotted in many places, while large flocks of crag martins are notable in the mountains in winter. Alpine accentors also frequent the highest mountains in winter. The blue rock thrush keeps itself out of sight, while swifts breed safely on cliffs. During the winter there is a big influx of birds from northern Europe, including starlings, thrushes, finches, waders and wildfowl. Woodlands support blackcaps, black redstarts, crossbills and goldfinches. Look out for white wagtail, meadow pipits, serins and greenfinches. Linnets and great tits are common and robins and chaffinches are abundant. Firecrests are found fairly high in the mountains. TRAVEL TO MALLORCA

By air Most visitors fly to Mallorca from airports as far apart as Iceland and Israel, 21

Trekking in Mallorca from all over Europe, including over two dozen British airports. The choice of routes and airlines is bewildering, but there are plenty of budget operators and deals for those willing to search online. It is worth accessing the Palma de Mallorca airport website to discover just how many routes and operators are available, www.aena.es/ en/palma-de-mallorca.html. By road or rail Few travellers consider an overland journey to Mallorca, but the Mediterranean ports of Barcelona and Valencia are served by trains and buses. For coach travel check Eurolines, www.eurolines.com, or for trains check www.renfe.com. Driving overland is a very time-consuming approach, but may suit British expatriates living in southern Spain. Ferries Ferries sail from Barcelona and Valencia to Palma, including Trasmediterranea, www.trasmediterranea.es, and Balearia, www.balearia. com. Ferries berth so close to Palma that it is possible to walk straight through the historic city centre for onward bus or rail connections, or use EMT bus 1 to get from the port to the Estació Intermodal on Plaça d’Espanya. Some buses heading west to the GR221 can be caught near the ferryport, without the need to go into the city. These include bus 102 to Port d’Andratx and bus 111 to Calvià and es Capdellà. 22

Taking or hiring a car Taking a car to Mallorca is not a good idea. The GR221 is linear and returning to a parked car is a huge inconvenience. Some walkers may wish to use a car in order to have a personalised backup service. If so, choose a good navigator to meet you at intervals along the route. Car hire can be arranged in advance, on arrival at the airport or through most hotels. Travel plans Shop around travel agents or browse websites to find appropriate flight, coach, rail and ferry schedules, as well as fair prices. Choose outward and return dates, but build in a couple of extra days in case delays, fatigue or inclement weather cause alterations to your planned walking schedule. See Appendix E for a selection of useful contacts. TRAVEL AROUND MALLORCA

By train There are only two railway lines leaving the centre of Palma, just off the Plaça d’Espanya. An expensive, rickety, vintage train called the Ferrocarril de Sóller runs northwards to Bunyola. It then passes through 13 tunnels beneath the Serra d’Alfàbia and spirals down to Sóller. It links with an electric tram to Port de Sóller. For timetables, tel 971 752051 or 971 752028, trendesoller.com.

Travel around Mallorca

A vintage tram, or ‘tranvia’, links Sóller and Port de Sóller

Serveis Ferroviaris de Mallorca (SFM) trains don’t serve the GR221 directly, although buses can be caught from a couple of railway stations along the line to points on the GR221. For instance, bus 320 links the Consell-Alaró station with Alaró, and bus 330 links the Inca station with Caimari and Lluc. For train timetables, tel 971 177777, www.tib.org. By bus Bus timetables are published to cover summer (April to September) and winter (October to March) seasons. The Estació Intermodal in Palma provides them, and they are posted on brightly coloured bus stops around Mallorca, but otherwise printed copies are difficult to obtain. Most buses, but by no means all of them, are red and yellow. Buses run from

early until late, but some remote villages have few buses. A list of useful bus services covering all parts of the GR221 is given in Appendix C. For bus timetables, tel 971 177777, www.tib.org. By taxi Taxis are available in all towns and most villages throughout Mallorca, usually close to the main squares or near popular hotels. Cars are generally white, with a stripe bearing the crest of the local municipality. The green sign Lliure/Libre means ‘free’ and any taxi displaying this can be used. In case of difficulty ask your hotel, or a roadside bar, to call one for you. Offer a couple of Euros if they seem reluctant. A general rule of thumb is that a long taxi journey will cost five times more than the bus fare. 23

Trekking in Mallorca If three or four walkers share a taxi, the individual cost is close to the bus fare for the same journey. You can ask to see a scale of charges approved by the local municipality, but if you want to go on a long journey you may have to pay the fare both ways even if you’re not returning. Tips of 10 per cent of the fare are customary. Transport to and from the GR221 Reaching the start Catch an EMT bus from the airport into Palma. Get off at Plaça d’Espanya and walk into the nearby Estació Intermodal. Bus 102 runs directly to Port d’Andratx, otherwise use bus 111 to reach the alternative starting points of es Capdellà and Calvià. If arriving by ferry, both these buses can be caught near the port without needing to go into Palma. Reaching the middle Details of trains, buses and taxis are given at appropriate points along the course of the GR221 in this guidebook. Most villages along the route have good connections with neighbouring villages, as well as with Palma, and it is often possible to commute to and from the route, or leave the route in search of accommodation. Always arrive at a bus stop in good time, as the bus will not stop anywhere else. If in doubt, ask local people where the bus stop, or parada, is located. 24

Leaving the route Bus 340 runs direct from Pollença to Palma. If using one of the alternative finishing points, other buses can be caught. These include bus 221 from Orient to Bunyola, which must be booked in advance, linking with bus 220 to Palma. Bus 320 can be caught at Alaró, linking with the SFM railway at the Consell/Alaró station. Bus 330 can be caught at Caimari, linking with other buses or trains at Inca. Once in Palma, EMT bus 1 runs frequently from Plaça d’Espanya to the airport and ferryport. WHEN TO GO

In theory the GR221 could be walked at any time of the year, but the peak summer period is very hot and any strenuous activity is quite exhausting. Spring and autumn are usually warm and clear, with a chance of rain, and most walkers would be happy with conditions at these times. The winter months can be clear and warm, but there is a greater risk of rain and the possibility of cold winds and snow on higher ground. Roughly every 20 years the whole of Mallorca is covered in snow, all the way down to the beaches, making transport to the GR221 and walks along mountain paths difficult. Note the large number of religious or cultural holidays, or festas, on the island. Many businesses close on these days and public transport operates a reduced level of service.

Accommodation The main dates are 1 and 6 January, 1 March, Easter (Thursday to Monday), 1 May, 25 July, 15 August, 12 October, 1 November and 6, 8, 25 and 26 December. Some towns and villages have local festas, but these usually only affect local businesses and not public transport. Mountain weather on Mallorca Mallorca has a typical Mediterranean climate with mild, damp winters and hot, dry summers. The relative humidity is around 70 per cent throughout the year. This, together with sea breezes, makes the hot summer days bearable, providing you are not walking uphill too much. There are nearly 300 sunny days in the year and even the winter months see an average of five hours of sunshine a day.

Rain usually falls in heavy showers that soon clear up, although there are occasional days of torrential rain in the late autumn and early spring. The rainfall is greatest over the high mountains and least on the south coast. Snow is common on the mountain tops in winter but very rare at sea level, with falls there recorded in 1956, 1985 and 2005. When snow falls deeply on the mountain paths, they can be quite difficult to follow. Take nothing for granted with the weather, and obtain a forecast whenever possible. ACCOMMODATION

The main tourism website for Mallorca is www.infomallorca.net. Tourist information offices are located in all the main resorts, but not all of

The route could be in the Torrent de la Vall d’en Marc after rain (Stage 10)

25

Trekking in Mallorca them operate through the winter. Staff at these offices usually speak English and can assist with information about accommodation, transport and visitor attractions. There is a tourist information office at the airport and others in Palma if assistance is needed before trekking. Other offices are found along the GR221 and are listed in Appendix E. Accommodation along the GR221 varies widely. Hotels occur at intervals along the way, and refuges, or refugis, are also available. There is only one campsite, which is at Lluc, but many trekkers manage by wildcamping. Although it is possible to commute fairly easily to and from the GR221 from the city of Palma, don’t assume that it would be easy to do so from one of the main tourist resorts around the coast. The best way to appreciate the GR221 is to stay on the trail and stay at a different place along it each night. All accommodation options are open for most of the year. Some hotels close in the winter. Refugis are often available throughout the year, but the only way to be certain is to contact them in advance with specific dates. Hotels Hotels of varying grades are available in every town along the GR221 and almost every village, but some places have far more hotels than others. (See Appendix D for a list.) In Valldemossa, lodgings tend to be quite expensive, but buses allow 26

walkers to move off-route in search of better deals. Former monastic cells at Lluc provide unusual and comfortable accommodation for visitors and are remarkably good value. Bear in mind that all beds could be taken at peak holiday periods, but most of the popular online accommodation booking websites will reveal something, somewhere. Prices range from about €40 per person in a budget hotel to well above €100 in some places, with meals costing extra. Prices of meals vary in hotels, and it is often possible to forgo whatever is offered and eat at a nearby restaurant instead. Breakfast buffets are usually very good value. Refugis The Consell de Mallorca established a number of excellent refugis, generally by restoring old buildings and equipping them to a high standard. In terms of services and facilities, they are like very good hostels, with beds in dormitories. They are certainly grander than the average Alpine refuge and are extremely good value. Since being established, some of the refugis continue to be administered centrally by the Consell, while others are run independently. In a few places, privatelyowned refugis have opened, and a couple of long-established pilgrim hostels, or hostatgerias, are also available. Mallorcans were very quick to take advantage of such economic yet quality accommodation, so weekends tend to be particularly busy with family groups. Trekkers who want a

Accommodation

The Refugi de Son Amer is surrounded by forested slopes (Alternative finish F)

quieter experience would be well advised to avoid holiday periods and weekends, and use the refugis on less busy weekdays wherever possible. Booking beds in the Conselladministered refugis can be done online https://seu.conselldemallorca. net/refugis/en/ruta/ (select English and follow the links), but be sure to follow the instructions, pay a deposit and keep a note of the confirmation. At the privately owned refugis it is possible to phone in advance. Sometimes it is possible just turn up at refugis without booking and hope for the best, but have a plan in place in case they are full. Meals are available and can either be booked in advance or organised on arrival. Packed lunches may also be available. There will be ‘rules’ that need to be observed, so that everyone enjoys a pleasant stay. The

provision of refugis along the GR221 is as follows: • La Trapa – construction has been stalled for some time • Ses Fontanelles – privately owned, near Km104 on the Ma-10 • Sa Coma d’en Vidal – a Consell property for groups only • Son Trias – privately owned, at Esporles • Can Boi – a Consell property at Deià • Muleta – a Consell property near Port de Sóller • Tossals Verds – a remote Consell property • Castell d’Alaró – a pilgrim hostatgeria on Puig d’Alaró • Pont Romà – operated on behalf of the Consell at Pollença • Puig de Maria – a pilgrim hostatgeria above Pollença 27

Trekking in Mallorca Camping There is only one campsite on the GR221, which is at Lluc. It is modern and replaces a site that was very rundown. Trying to use the campsite as a base for tackling the GR221 simply won’t work effectively. It is increasingly common to notice many trekkers carrying full backpacking gear along the trail. Evidently, they are quietly establishing unobtrusive wild camps along the way. If considering this approach, bear in mind that it is illegal, so you must be very discreet and leave no evidence of overnight stops. The level platforms of old sitges among dense holm oak woods are popular among wild campers! LANGUAGE

There are two official languages in Mallorca: Castilian Spanish and Catalan. Catalan is spoken from Andorra to València, as well as on the Balearic Islands. Mallorquí is a dialect of Catalan and includes words of French and Arabic origin. No-one expects visitors to learn Catalan, let alone Mallorquí, and any Spanish you learn will be readily understood. Many people in the main resorts and large hotels speak English, German and other languages, but this may not be the case in small villages and in the countryside. Catalan in its written form may be understood by anyone with a knowledge of Spanish, but the spoken language is another matter. Between 28

themselves, most islanders speak Mallorquí, so conversations on buses and in bars and shops may be incomprehensible to visitors. However, if you speak a little Spanish you will find that people are delighted and will help you all they can, and even more so if you attempt to converse in Catalan. It is well worth taking the trouble to learn a few words and phrases so as to be able to pass the time of day with local people. Placenames Most places in Mallorca had two names in the past, Spanish and Mallorquí. Since Mallorquí was given equal status with Spanish, almost all Spanish placenames have vanished from signposts and street signs. In fact, only in a few tourist resorts are there any Spanish signs to be seen, and Mallorquí may be the only language in evidence in rural areas. Confusion is likely to arise if you use old maps and guidebooks, which generally show only Spanish placenames. Spanish IGN maps have mostly switched to Mallorquí placenames, and the popular Editorial Alpina maps use only Mallorquí placenames. As a rule, many placenames look similar, regardless of whether they are in Spanish or Mallorquí, but some hotels and businesses insist on using Spanish forms for their addresses. For visitors, this could be confusing if your hotel is listed as being in Puerto Sóller or Pollensa, but the only road signs you see are for Port de Sóller or Pollença!

Food and drink See Appendix B for basic phrases and useful words in English, Spanish and Catalan, along with a topographical glossary for use when interpreting placenames on maps. MONEY

The Euro is the currency of Mallorca. Large denomination Euro notes are difficult to use for small purchases, so avoid the €500 and €200 notes altogether, and avoid the €100 notes if you can. The rest are fine: €50, €20, €10 and €5. Coins come in €2 and €1. Small denomination coins come in values of 50c, 20c, 10c, 5c, 2c and 1c. Bus drivers will appreciate the correct change and will frown on large notes. Banks and ATMs are mentioned in route descriptions if further supplies of cash are needed. Many accommodation providers will accept major credit and debit cards, as will large supermarkets, but small

bars, shops and cafés deal only in cash. Some insurance policies may class a walk along the GR221 as a hazardous pursuit, in which case you may not be covered. Others, such as that provided by the BMC, www. thebmc.co.uk/insurance, would class it as an ordinary walk. FOOD AND DRINK

All the towns and villages along the GR221 offer the opportunity to buy food and drink. In some places there may only be one or two shops selling food, but there will always be a bar restaurant, and there are often opportunities to sample local fare. There are occasional roadside bar restaurants, but read ahead to be sure where the next shops, bars and restaurants are located. If there is a significant gap in services, be sure to stock up appropriately in advance. Shops generally open

The dining room at the remote Refugi de Tossals Verds (Stage 8)

29

Trekking in Mallorca from 0900–1300 and 1600–2000. Long lunch hours are common, but some open all day, while some close on Saturday afternoons, and some may not open at all on Sundays. Mallorquín cuisine, or cuina Mallorquina, can differ from that of Catalonia on the mainland. Fish dishes are a speciality and so are tapas, served with drinks in many bars. They are usually behind glass on the counter, so you can point to the ones you want. Small or large helpings are offered and a large one can make a substantial meal. Meals in hotels may involve table service or a self-service buffet with an excellent selection. Meals in refugis are usually wholesome, filling, local

specialities. See Appendix B for translations of many types of local specialities that may appear on menus. WATER

Ordinary tap water is fine for drinking, and bottled water is on sale everywhere. Very little running water is available in the limestone mountains. However, the word ‘font’ on maps indicates a spring. Sometimes, these will flow copiously and provide excellent drinking water. Others might be stagnant, and unsuitable for drinking without treating. Others may be dry most of the time, or have been piped away at source. Play safe and carry plenty of water.

Most of the GR221 has been signposted and waymarked, with amazing precision in some places!

30

Walking the GR221

Little houses are passed on the way to Coll de sa Gramola (Alternative start A)

WALKING THE GR221

Walking from south-west to north-east works well with the prevailing weather and there is less likelihood of squinting into the sun. At the time of writing, the early stages of the GR221 were neither signposted nor waymarked, with agreements yet to be concluded with landowners. Most of these routes are already in regular use by walkers and access doesn’t appear to be a problem. The greater part of the route and its alternatives are very well signposted and waymarked, proving very popular with trekkers. The Consell de Mallorca breaks the route into eight stages, but this guidebook presents the main route in 10 daily stages, with a further three alternative starting points and three alternative finishing points. The main route from Port d’Andratx to Pollença measures about 140km (87 miles), while all the variant routes added together give an additional 90km (56 miles).

Alternative routes Many maps have been produced showing the course of the GR221 over the years, regardless of whether or not some stretches have been negotiated with landowners, or cleared of undergrowth to allow access. Every so often, one of the suggested alternatives becomes formally adopted, signposted and waymarked. At present, there are enough of these routes to offer three additional starting points, and three additional finishing points. Full details of alternative routes that are already available are given in this guidebook. Instead of starting at Port d’Andratx and passing through Sant Elm, where the first one-and-a-half days of the route aren’t yet waymarked, your route could be started in the village of s’Arracó, where the route is waymarked all the way to Coll de sa Gramola. Another alternative starting point is the village of es Capdellà, where the route is fully signposted 31

Trekking in Mallorca and waymarked all the way through the Galatzó estate to Estellencs. Yet another alternative starting point is the small town of Calvià, where the route is fully signposted as the GR221 as far as Puigpunyent, and at least waymarked to Coll d’Estellencs. The descent to Estellencs, despite being regarded as a Camino Real, or right of way, has not yet been formally adopted, and is admittedly a sorry mess by the time it reaches Estellencs. A major alternative is planned, and could be open any time after 2022, between Valldemossa and Orient. The plan involves leaving Valldemossa via Son Verí and continuing past Pastoritx, where the route has already been approved. After passing Bunyola, however, it is likely that the bulk of the route to Orient will follow roads. Using this particular variant would cut Deià, Sóller and Cúber from the trek, along with many scenic highlights, although the walking would of course be much easier. Instead of finishing at Pollença, three other finishing points could be considered. One option, while not specifically marked as the GR221, is at least fully signposted all the way from the outskirts of Sóller to Cala Tuent. The problem with this route is getting away at the end, but ultimately it is planned that the route will continue to Lluc. Another option for finishing involves leaving the main route at Tossals Verds, and walking either to Alaró for an easy exit, or over Puig d’Alaró to finish in the village 32

of Orient. Yet another finishing point can be considered by switching from the GR221 to the GR222, from Lluc to Caimari. In due course, the GR222 will be signposted and waymarked across the plains of es Pla to the distant Serra de Llevant. Extra mountains Hardy enthusiasts could walk the whole of the GR221 and include several mountain peaks along the way. Many prominent peaks lie close to the route, but climbing some of them involves hands-on scrambling. Peaks worth considering include Mola de s’Esclop, Puig de Galatzó, Mola de Son Ferrandell, Puig des Teix, Puig de l’Ofre, Puig des Tossals Verds, Puig de Massanella and Tomir. Guided walking holidays Some activity holiday companies claim to offer guided walks along the GR221. Check their details carefully as most of them do not actually trek along the entire route, but offer only a series of short walks along certain ‘highlight’ sections. However, there are some companies who offer longdistance guided walks through the Serra de Tramuntana that either follow or run roughly parallel to the GR221. Maps of the GR221 At the time of writing the GR221 is neither signposted nor waymarked in its early stages, but the latter parts are usually very well marked. This

Walking the GR221 guidebook contains extracts from the excellent Editorial Alpina 1:25,000 scale maps of the Serra de Tramuntana. These are far and away the best maps for trekking along the GR221 and all its alternatives. To enjoy full coverage of the mountains and to appreciate where the GR221 is located in a wider context, obtain the Alpina 25 maps of the Serra de Tramuntana Sud, Central and Nord, along with their Caps del Nord map. All these maps come with a five-language key. For details see www.editorialalpina.com. Th e I n s t i t u t o G e o g r á f i c o Nacional (IGN) publishes maps of Mallorca at scales of 1:50,000 and 1:25,000. These are part of the Mapa Topográfico Nacional (MTN) series. Be sure to check the style and quality of these maps if tempted to make

a purchase, as they don’t show the course of the GR221, nor do they show many of the paths and tracks that form the route. For details see www.cnig.es. Maps can be ordered in advance from British suppliers such as Stanfords (7 Mercer Walk, Covent Garden, London WC2H 9FA, tel 020 7836 1321, www.stanfords. co.uk); The Map Shop (15 High Street, Upton-upon-Severn WR8 0HJ, tel 01684 593146, www.the mapshop.co.uk); or Cordee (tel 01455 611185, www.cordee.co.uk). Path conditions For the most part the GR221 is made up of clear paths and tracks, sometimes cut through solid rock and often built laboriously by hand. Some of the

The Camí des Correu runs through dense holm oak woodland (Stage 4)

33

Trekking in Mallorca paths were engineered as zigzagging mule tracks from village to village, and these are often quite plain and obvious to follow. Others were made to exploit woodlands for charcoal, so they tend to fan out among dense woodlands, with many spurs reaching dead-ends. On these tracks it is necessary to pay careful attention to maps and route descriptions, confirming your location at every junction before making the next move. Even when the signposting and waymarking is good, remember that markers can go missing. Conditions underfoot range from bare rock to well-paved stretches. There are also some uncomfortably stony sections, or paths that run through deeply eroded gullies. Leafmould can obscure uneven surfaces, so tread carefully. Some mountainsides are covered in huge grassy tussocks of càrritx. Walkers quickly learn to high-step through càrritx, because stepping onto the tough fronds can cause the other foot to be caught as it is swung forward! Kit check Think carefully about the gear you plan to carry and keep your pack light. Ground conditions are often hard and stony, but there are plenty of easier tracks and roads. Wear boots or shoes according to your personal preference over such terrain. Bear in mind that hot feet might be more of a problem than wet feet, so 34

think carefully when choosing footwear and socks. Clothing should be lightweight and light coloured, offering good protection from the sun, while being able to offer good ventilation for sweat. It could be cold on the high mountains, especially in the winter. Waterproofs and windproofs may only be used rarely, so lightweight items will usually be fine. On sunny days, use sunscreen on exposed skin and wear a good sun hat. Bare limestone is very bright in the full sun, so consider taking sunglasses. Water must be carried on hot days – a minimum of two litres. Guard against sunburn and heat exhaustion at all times, but be prepared for colder and wetter days too. If trekking along the GR221 and using hotel accommodation, little is needed apart from normal day-walking kit and a change of clothes. If using the refugis, add a wash-kit and towel, and maybe a sleeping bag, although bedding can be hired. Backpackers should remember that there is only one campsite on the route. Carrying heavy loads in hot weather is exhausting, so if planning to wild-camp in the mountains, ensure that all your kit is lightweight, and that you are self-sufficient in food and water for overnight stops. Weather conditions in summer are seldom severe, but in winter be prepared for cold nights and wetter weather. Always know where the next shops are located on the route,

Using this guide

GR221 signposts are often added to signposts in towns and villages

resupplying as necessary and avoiding carrying too much too far. EMERGENCIES

Until 1995 there was only a voluntary mountain rescue service on Mallorca, but now there are two professional teams: one from the fire service, or Bombers, tel 080 or 112, and the other from the Guardia Civil, tel 062 or 112. There are three police forces: the Policía Local wear blue uniforms and are attached to local municipalities; the Policía Nacional wear brown uniforms; and the Guardia Civil wear green uniforms and are often seen in rural areas. All three police forces may

be called upon in an emercency, tel 112. Mountain rescue is free of charge and unfortunately has been kept very busy. Getting a message out in an emergency is not always easy. Mobile phones may not get a good signal on some parts of the GR221, and time lost trying to get a signal can be crucial. Carry a first aid kit to deal with the usual cuts, scrapes and blisters. For other health issues, there are pharmacies in the towns and most villages. If any regular medication is needed, include it in your pack. If a doctor or a trip to a hospital is required, there may be costs involved, and an insurance policy with good medical cover is recommended. Best of all, walk safely and avoid suffering any injuries. USING THIS GUIDE

This guidebook offers all the information you need to organise a successful trek along the GR221, or any of its alternative routes, whether the route is fully waymarked or not. Information produced by the Consell de Mallorca breaks the route into eight stages, but this guidebook breaks it into 10 daily stages, ensuring that time is available to explore interesting places, such as Valldemossa and Deià. Feel free to adapt and amend the schedule, based on the availability of accommodation and useful bus services. 35

Trekking in Mallorca If walking from refugi to refugi, remember that it is best to book them in advance. The same applies to hotels, although it is often possible to turn up unannounced and secure a bed, if one is available. For food and drink, keep reading ahead through the guidebook to discover where shops, bars and restaurants are located, and be sure to buy provisions to cover for long stages that lack refreshment. An information box at the beginning of each stage provides the essential statistics for the day’s walk: start and finish points with grid references, distance covered, total ascent and descent, the length of time it’s likely to take to complete the stage, the title of the sheet map you should carry with you, and places en route where you can buy refreshments. In the route description, significant places or features along the way that also appear on the map extracts are highlighted in bold to aid navigation. As well as the detailed route description, information about local places is provided in brief. The nature of the terrain is always described, so that you know which parts are on open mountainside, which parts are in dense forest, which parts are on rugged paths and which parts run along gentle tracks. By all means double-up stages, or split stages, based on the information supplied. If time isn’t available to walk the entire route, then consider one of the alternative starting and finishing

36

points, which can significantly reduce the distance. Many things are likely to influence the time it takes to complete a day’s walk. The timings given in this guidebook are walking times, and do not account for breaks along the way. If you keep beating the stated times, you probably always will, and you can plan ahead on that basis. If you fall behind the stated times, then work out by how much, and apply that forward along the route to estimate your eventual time of arrival at the end of each day. A route summary is given in Appendix A. Buses are mentioned wherever they operate, but in some places services are limited. Check current bus and train timetables online, or obtain them from the Estació Intermodal in Palma. If you have timetables to hand, then you can refer to them easily. If you don’t have them, then you risk missing a bus by a matter of minutes and might discover that the next one will not arrive for several hours, or even a couple of days! See the summary of useful bus routes in Appendix C, and collect timetables for those services. If stuck for words, needing a handy phrase, wondering what an item of food is on a menu, or just idly curious about the meaning of some of the place-names on maps, check the Glossary in Appendix B. Useful contacts are listed in Appendix E.

GR221 – THE DRYSTONE ROUTE

A trekker descends a reconstructed zigzag path at Voltes d’en Galileu (Stage 9)

37

Trekking in Mallorca

STAGE 1 Port d’Andratx to Sant Elm Start Finish Distance Total ascent Total descent Time Map Refreshments

Footbridge, Port d’Andratx – 478775 Plaça de na Caragola, Sant Elm – 442817 8.5km (5¼ miles) 370m (1215ft) 370m (1215ft) 3hr Alpina 25 Tramuntana – Sud Plenty of bars and restaurants at Port d’Andratx and Sant Elm.

Tracks and paths running between Port d’Andratx and Sant Elm are in regular use, but are neither signposted nor waymarked. They traverse a range of small, rugged, forested hills, where it is worth making a detour to enjoy fine views from the summit of Pintal Vermell. A narrow path called Pas Vermell easily exploits a breach in an overhanging cliff to allow a descent. Sant Elm is reached early in the day, but until a long-delayed upland refugi is completed at La Trapa, the coastal village offers the only convenient lodgings. Despite a few rugged moments, this is an easy and pleasant start, with good views of the mountains ahead.

Leave the head of the bay at Port d’Andratx by crossing a humped footbridge over a river at s’Aulet. Follow a broad palm-fringed promenade past the Club de Vela boatyard and a marina. Turn right as signposted for Mon Port, up Carretera Aldea Blanca. Turn left at a crossroads along Carrer de Cala d’Egos, again signposted for Mon Port. Keep right when the road forks, as left leads to the Mon Port Hotel and a striking windmill. Pass old olive terraces and avoid a road climbing steeply on the right, rising gently into pine forest instead. Watch for a steep and stony path on the right, often worn to bedrock. The road could be followed uphill, but it is 38

Stage 1 – Port d’Andratx to Sant Elm PORT D’ANDRATX

Port d’Andratx is busy with tourists and has a wellstocked marina, but it still maintains a small fishing fleet, with nets and ropes strewn around. Boats unload their catches and fish are sold from a shop on the harbourside. The village lies at the head of a bay surrounded by forested hills, with the distant peaks of Mola de s’Esclop and Puig de Galatzó in sight. Head inland to find old buildings and narrow streets clustered around the church of Nostra Senyora del Carme. A good range of services includes hotels, banks with ATMs, a post office, plenty of shops and far too many estate agents. The sea front boasts a long line of busy bars and restaurants, naturally featuring fish dishes, along with plenty of cosmopolitan choices. Bus 102 links Port d’Andratx with Palma, while bus 100 runs ahead to s’Arracó and Sant Elm. Taxis are also available. Ferries occasionally sail between Port d’Andratx and Sant Elm, offering visits to the island of sa Dragonera. A tourist information office stands on the harbourside, tel 971 671300. Marina at Port d’Andratx, with Mola de s’Esclop and Galatzó beyond

very convoluted. The path climbs straight uphill, clipping three bends on the road.It is possible to switch between the road and the path at all three bends, as well as one more time where the path and road cross each other. The path finally reaches a track junction on the gap of Coll des Vent, at 163m (535ft). There are a couple of ruined limekilns nearby and views back to Port d’Andratx. Turn left to follow a track away from the gap, keeping right at two junctions that appear soon afterwards. The track runs gradually downhill on a forested slope, reaching another junction around 110m (360ft). Keep right again, but note that a left turn leads down to a rugged little beach at Cala d’Egos. Follow the track uphill, climbing

Take care at weekends, when mountain bikers tend to hurtle down the path, making the road a safer option.

39

Trekking in Mallorca

map continues on page 42

40

Stage 1 – Port d’Andratx to Sant Elm steeply at times, and keep left at a junction where there is a sitja. When a higher junction is reached below Puig d’en Ric, turn left to climb further, passing back and forth beneath a pylon line. Cross a high crest where there is a view north-east to Mola de s’Esclop; the mountain rising beyond the village of s’Arracó. Follow the track towards a prominent red and white mast, but pass below it, rather than climbing to it. Watch carefully for a series of vague paths on the right, mostly marked with little cairns. All of these lead up to a rocky crest touching 300m (985ft). Ascent of Pintal Vermell 1km (½ mile) there-and-back – 30m (100ft) ascent/ descent – 30min It is worth staying on the track, descending gently then climbing steeply a short way. It ends just below a trig point on Pintal Vermell, at 312m (1024ft). Enjoy splendid views to the island of sa Dragonera, Sant Elm and the mountains beyond, then double back along the track and turn left up one of the cairned paths to cross the rocky crest.

View from Pintal Vermell to sa Dragonera and Sant Elm

41

Trekking in Mallorca

42

Stage 1 – Port d’Andratx to Sant Elm Scout around to find a fine mountain path called Pas Vermell, which cuts across a natural breach, easily avoiding fearsome overhanging cliffs. The path then drops through a well-worn groove, passing pines and càrritx to reach a track.4 Turn left and follow the bendy track down into a forest. Stay on the main track, passing a junction on a pronounced hairpin bend. When another junction is reached, spot ‘S Elm’ painted on a rock, indicating a right turn. After a steeper descent among taller pines, there are three opportunities to turn right in close succession. Take the last of these, which should be marked by a small cairn and paint marks. Quickly turn left and a cable should be stretched across the track to exclude vehicles. Rise gently along the track to reach a little house called sa Pineta. Continue down past small fields, and the track is later patched with concrete, with fine views of sa Dragonera and Sant Elm. Pass a chain, continue down to a junction and turn right along a forest track. Emerge into a field and turn left along a path, then go through a gap in a wall, briefly back into forest. Cross a road at the gateway to Castell de Sant Elm, also known as the Torre de Sant Elm. Continue along a track and turn left down a flight of 50 concrete steps. Turn right along a road, passing the Hotel Aquamarin to reach a road junction and bus stop beside a sandy beach. Turn left and follow the pedestrianised, brick-paved Avinguda Jaume I all the way through Sant Elm. Either continue straight to a bus stop on Plaça de na Caragola, or keep left towards the end, passing above the ferry landing before reaching the bus stop.

Turning right down the track leads to a road, which in turn leads to the village of s’Arracó.

Look out to the little island of Pantaleu, with the larger sa Dragonera beyond.

This popular little village of Sant Elm might have become a large resort but for its proximity to sa Dragonera. When the island was given special protection in 1995, the coastline north of Sant Elm was protected from development. The Torre de Sant Elm stands above the village and is floodlit at night. There is a small range of services, including a hotel, hostal, bank with ATM, bars, restaurants and 43

Trekking in Mallorca shops. A tourist information office is available, tel 971 671300. Bus 100 links with s’Arracó and Port d’Andratx, and there are also taxis. SA DRAGONERA

This rugged island is historically important, being where Jaume I prepared for the Conquest of Mallorca in 1229. The Parc Natural de sa Dragonera is a strictly controlled nature reserve, with special emphasis on the bird-life and endemic plants of the island. The information centre in Sant Elm offers advice in advance of a visit. La Margarita ferry, tel 639 617545 or 696 423933, runs daily for most of the year, but not always on Sundays or in bad weather. Other options include Bergantin, tel 627 966264 or 600 520503; the Water Taxi, tel 667 592657; or Jumbo II, tel 971 686849 or 687 800400. Access on sa Dragonera is limited to a track running the length of the island, where lighthouses stand at Cap des Llebeig and Cap de Tramuntana. A winding path climbs to the highest point, na Pòpia at 349m (1145ft), which is crowned with a disused lighthouse. See www.conselldemallorca.net/dragonera.

Sant Elm, the Hostal Dragonera and the island of sa Dragonera 44

STAGE 2 Sant Elm to Ses Fontanelles Start Finish Distance Total ascent Total descent Time Map Refreshments

Plaça de na Caragola, Sant Elm – 442817 Ses Fontanelles – 504855 12km (7½ miles) 520m (1705ft) 240m (790ft) 4hr Alpina 25 Tramuntana – Sud Plenty of bars and restaurants at Sant Elm. Basic refreshments at Ses Fontanelles.

This stage has an easy start, but it becomes progressively steeper and rockier. The ruined monastic site of La Trapa springs suddenly into view and is worth exploring. Rough and rocky paths continue into the barren uplands beyond, linking with an alternative, fully signposted route that rises from s’Arracó. The rest of this stage can be covered quickly using a clear track to Coll de sa Gramola and a road to Ses Fontanelles. The provision of a private refugi at Ses Fontanelles makes this an ideal place to break before tackling the rugged and awkward slopes of Mola de s’Esclop.

Leave Plaça de na Caragola in Sant Elm, and hug the coast while following the road called Carrer de Cala en Basset. Signposts confirm that this is the way to La Trapa, and the bus terminus is passed on Plaça de Mossen Sebastià Grau. Head inland from es Molí restaurant, where there is an old windmill, following Avinguda de La Trapa uphill. The road runs into forest and gives way to a dirt road called Camí Can Tomeví. Keep straight ahead at a junction in the forest, eventually passing near the solitary house of Can Tomeví. Watch for a marker post for La Trapa and walk straight ahead on a bare limestone path criss-crossed with tree roots. Simply follow a well-trodden path up the forested 45

Trekking in Mallorca map continues on page 49

46

Stage 2 – Sant Elm to Ses Fontanelles

slope, passing a pair of old gate pillars and crossing other tracks. Little cairns and occasional paint blobs mark the way, while other paths may be blocked by branches or lines of stones to keep walkers on course. Climb past old terraces then drift to the left along the foot of rugged cliffs as the pines become sparse. An easy stone-buttressed terrace path overlooks a secluded boulder-beach at Cala en Basset, with sa Dragonera in view beyond.The terrace gives way to a steep and rocky slope where hands must be used for a little mild scrambling, and one part has a rope for protection. Cross a rocky shoulder at 300m (985ft), pass a noticeboard and look down on old buildings and former cultivation terraces at La Trapa. Follow a path in that direction and cross a ladder stile to reach an access track.

The ruined monastery of La Trapa and the island of sa Dragonera

The maquis includes rock roses, spiky broom, fan palms and càrritx.

LA TRAPA

Two communities of exiled Trappist monks, from Normandy in France and Zaragoza in Spain, combined resources to construct a small monastery in this remote valley in 1810. They devoted their lives to prayer and hard work

47

Trekking in Mallorca while observing a vow of silence. One monk was elected to trade with the outside world and was obliged to live apart from the community. The site was abandoned in 1820, sold in 1853 and fell into ruins after serving as a farm. It was purchased in 1980, along with the surrounding land, by a birdwatching and environmental organisation, Grup Ornitològic Balear (GOB) – see www.gobmallorca.com. Disaster struck in 1994 when a fire destroyed the forested upland. Trees have been replanted among the tangled maquis, but will take decades to mature. Old drystone terraces and the irrigation system have been restored. Camping is permitted, though there are no facilities, and a permit must be obtained in advance. See www.gobmallorca.com/ que-feim/la-trapa/acampar-a-la-trapa. To explore the site, simply walk down the track, passing the former monastery to reach a nearby mill. (The millstone inside was once turned by a mule.) Walk down to a bare circular area that was an era, or threshing floor, but now bears tall pines. A little further downhill is a mirador with a fine view of sa Dragonera. Double back uphill to continue the walk, and consider leaving a donation.

View along the coast near ses Basses, all the way to Puig Major

48

Follow the zigzag access track uphill from La Trapa. A signpost and a marker post indicate that this is the way to ses Basses, but be sure to leave the track on a bend to follow a narrow path onwards. Pass occasional burnt and toppled pines among the dense scrub, while

Stage 2 – Sant Elm to Ses Fontanelles

map continues on page 51

wondering how long it takes to re-grow a forest. Pass a noticeboard and follow the path as it climbs gradually past old terraces in Vall de Sant Josep, becoming steeper and more rugged later. There is no sign of habitation in any direction as the path reaches 450m (1475ft) on the open slopes of Puig de ses Basses. 49

Trekking in Mallorca Detour to Mirador d’en Josep Sastre When a large cairn is reached, turn left to follow a short path to the mirador for a fine and final view of sa Dragonera, then return to the cairn to continue.

In 2003 and 2013 fires burnt many trees between here and Estellencs.

See Alternative start A.

The path crosses rugged terrain dotted with amaryllis and rosemary. There are superb views north-east along the coast, taking in the nearby peak of Mola de s’Esclop and distant Puig Major – the highest peak on Mallorca. Head gradually downhill from one burnt pine tree to another, relishing the shade offered by surviving trees if the sun is strong. When more pines are reached on a crest, turn left along a path that might be obscured by a fallen tree. Another short path on the left could be followed for a view, otherwise keep right, traversing a slope thick with càrritx. Enjoy coastal views and eventually reach a track beside a solitary little house at ses Basses. Turn left and follow a winding track downhill, keeping left at a couple more track junctions. A signpost and mapboard stand where an alternative route from s’Arracó joins.3The track climbs gently, keeping high above a valley, and is often buttressed with stone. There is a glimpse of s’Arracó downhill, with the coast far beyond. A sweeping zigzag later climbs past notices bolted onto a cliff, and old terraces are covered in maquis. Cross a crest at 390m (1280ft) and follow the winding track down to grassy spaces and pines at es Campàs. Go straight ahead where a chain is stretched across the track, and avoid other tracks to right and left. The main track runs gently downhill, passing tracks leading to little houses, as well as another chain. Reach the main Ma-10 road at 344m (1129ft) on Coll de sa Gramola. The Ma-10 road runs the length of the Serra de Tramuntana from Andratx to Pollença. It is equipped with prominent kilometre markers, and between each of these are smaller markers every 100 metres. Navigating stretches of the Ma-10 is simply a matter of counting off the markers, first noting the Km106

50

Stage 2 – Sant Elm to Ses Fontanelles

51

Trekking in Mallorca marker. In future, the first part of this road might be avoided if paths can be constructed across the slopes below.

Note the great girth of some of the old olive trees.

Turn left to follow the road up from Coll de sa Gramola, passing the Km106 marker. Go through a crumbling rock cutting, then the road runs gently down across a rugged slope where trees have been burnt. Pass the Km105 marker and continue through the level, cultivated Pla de s’Evangèlica, where a gritty path runs beside the road. The roadside path ends and a road on the right rises at sa Coma de ses Selles. The GR221 might go that way in the future, but an alternative route is well worth considering. Follow the main road further downhill to the Km104 marker and turn right along the Camí de ses Fontanelles. This access track leads to Ses Fontanelles at 280m (920ft). Until 2016 there was no accommodation for trekkers on the GR221 between Sant Elm and Estellencs. A private 12-bed refugi and self-catering house is now available at Ses Fontanelles, and the owners have signposted a route past the property. They prefer trekkers to book a few days in advance, tel 971 940941. Breakfast is offered, along with basic refreshments, but anyone staying overnight should take food for their evening meal.

52

STAGE 3 Ses Fontanelles to Estellencs Start Finish Distance Total ascent Total descent Time Map Refreshments

Ses Fontanelles – 504855 Església de Sant Joan Baptista, Estellencs – 555896 13km (8 miles) 600m (1970ft) 730m (2395ft) 4hr Alpina 25 Tramuntana – Sud Basic refreshments at Ses Fontanelles. Bars and restaurants at Estellencs.

Rough and rocky paths climb from Ses Fontanelles towards Mola de s’Esclop. Clear weather is an advantage while following vague, sparsely cairned paths on rocky slopes. Should this route become signposted and waymarked in future, it would be easier to follow. An extensive forest fire has left some parts covered in awkward fallen trees and branches. The route climbs so high that it is well worth including the rocky summit of s’Esclop. The descent follows a rugged path, linking with easier waymarked tracks that drop steeply through forest. The route becomes quite convoluted, but some loops might be short-cut in future. A winding road finally drops to the charming village of Estellencs.

Leave Ses Fontanelles, following a track as signposted up to a path. Walk up the forested valley of Coma des Cellers and keep left at a higher level to follow another track. Just before the track reaches a gate, switch to a narrow, rugged, cairned path, swinging left as it climbs, with views back to Pla de s’Evangèlica. Watch carefully to spot where the path exploits a breach in the cliffs at Pas Gran, crossing an old fence. Keep watching for small cairns all the way up a rocky slope dotted with pines, bushes and scrub. 53

Trekking in Mallorca

In 2003 a forest fire caused extensive damage in this area.

The rather vague path crosses a metal ladder stile over a fence, almost touching 610m (2000ft) before descending through an area with more pines and dense càrritx. A house might be noticed uphill at ses Alquerioles, but keep watching for the cairned path, rising to cross another metal ladder stile. Turn right and pass between an old well and a ruin. Climb, but pay great attention to the route, which is vague in places. It rises across old terraces, where burnt and fallen trees often obscure the way.3 It is important to spot a rocky cleft in a cliff at Pas d’en Ponsa, which is awkwardly clogged with burnt and fallen trees. Once through, it is tempting to follow a trodden path onwards, but it leads downhill, so turn right and climb, watching for more small cairns. These show the way up another rocky slope dotted with pines. Views open up wonderfully, with the tower of sa Torre Nova seen far below. Looking back along the route, Pla de s’Evangèlica is in view, along with Port d’Andratx and neighbouring Andratx, and the south coast. Keep climbing to reach a prominent fan palm. Just beyond it is an area of short-cropped grassy, with a circular era, or threshing floor, situated between tumbled ruins and old terraces at Caseta Mola, 844m (2769ft). Ascent of Mola de s’Esclop 1km (½ mile) there-and-back – 80m (260ft) ascent/ descent – 30min Turn right to follow a path across terraces beneath a cliff. Turn left and tackle some mild scrambling to gain the crest of Mola de s’Esclop. Turn either right or left. Right leads quickly to a ruined building that once served as an observatory; left leads to the summit trig point at 928m (3045ft). Splendid views stretch in all directions, with the neighbouring peak of Puig de Galatzó featuring particularly well. Retrace steps to the era to continue, or look for another descent in the direction of es Castellet. From the era, a path descends past old terraces, traverses a slope and passes above a rocky chasm near Font des

54

Stage 3 – Ses Fontanelles to Estellencs

map continues on page 57

55

Trekking in Mallorca

The route passes es Castellet, with Puig de Galatzó seen beyond

See Alternative start B.

56

Quer. Take care not to follow a path downhill, but keep straight ahead to cross a low, tumbled wall on a broad, gentle coll. The path continues across a rugged slope covered in càrritx, where the rocky hump of es Castellet rises to the left. A ruin lies to the right, and another era is crossed at Era d’en Coll. The path continues downhill, but there are occasionally burnt trees lying across it, forcing slight detours. A signpost is reached where an alternative route from es Capdellà joins on a gap at 652m (2139ft). Cross a stile over a wall and turn left as marked to follow a clear track down through a fire-damaged forested valley below Serra des Pinotells. When a junction is reached, keep left to continue down a lower track. The refugi of sa Coma d’en Vidal is passed, around 550m (1805ft). This should have been providing accommodation when it was first acquired, back in 2002, but to date it is only open to large groups of walkers. The track leading away from the building is flanked by an avenue of trees, then it passes through a gate, where there is a glimpse of the coast. The track is very steep and convoluted as it descends, passing through a

Stage 3 – Ses Fontanelles to Estellencs map continues on page 58

57

Trekking in Mallorca

58

Stage 3 – Ses Fontanelles to Estellencs formidable wall and fence that once barred access to the property. There are splendid views of the high cliffs of es Morralàs, forested slopes and the coast. Pines give way to holm oaks as the track winds further downhill, reaching a signposted junction near a water tank. Turn left to continue downhill and the track joins the Ma-10 road at the Km97 marker. Turn left to follow the bendy road, watching for a signpost on the right. A winding path runs down a forested slope to land on an old highway, which is now a forest track. Follow it gently downhill round a series of tight bends. When it passes above a little house in the forest, join another track and turn right to continue. When this bendy track later approaches the main road, fork left at a junction beforehand. The track becomes a path running parallel to the road, passing the Km96 marker. Join the road to walk round a descending bend at Coll des Pi. Turn left as signposted at a junction to walk down an old, narrow road in a series of tight zigzags. Turn right at a junction far below, passing a house and a towering stone wall. Overlook orange groves while passing other road junctions, continuing straight towards the village of Estellencs. Turn left along the main road when the Hotel

Before reaching the road, a track on the right could be used to short-cut a very convoluted stretch of the route.

The village of Estellencs is surrounded by rugged mountains

59

Trekking in Mallorca Maristel is reached, quickly reaching the church of Sant Joan Baptista, around 150m (490ft). Estellencs is the first mountain village on the GR221, surrounded by steep terraces, forested slopes and rocky mountainsides. Accommodation is available at two hotels – the Maristel and the Nord. There are a few bars and restaurants, a shop, a post office and an ATM. Bus 200 links Estellencs, Banyalbufar, Esporles and Palma.

The country mansion of es Collet is passed after leaving Estellencs 60

STAGE 4 Estellencs to Esporles Start Finish Distance Total ascent Total descent Time Map Refreshments

Església de Sant Joan Baptista, Estellencs – 555896 Plaça d’Espanya, Esporles – 638913 14km (8¾ miles) 660m (2165ft) 620m (2035ft) 4hr 30min Alpina 25 Tramuntana – Sud Estellencs, Banyalbufar and Esporles have bars and restaurants.

Almost as soon as the GR221 opened between Estellencs and Banyalbufar, a stretch in the middle was closed by landowners. Shortly afterwards, a vast estate at Planícia was purchased and opened to the public, but landowners closed some of the paths leading to it. In 2016 several paths were legally declared to be public and the GR221 went back to its original course. Most of the day’s walk is along good tracks and paths, crossing cultivated and forested slopes. A rugged old track, the Camí des Correu, or ‘Post Path’, crosses densely forested slopes between Banyalbufar and Sa Granja on the way to Esporles.

Leave Estellencs by following the main Ma-10 road down from the church, and turn round a bend at a communal washhouse.4Climb past the Pizzeria Giardini. A GR221 signpost points left down a concrete track; turn left at the bottom to cross a small stream-bed then climb a clear, boulder-paved path between terraces of olives, oranges and carobs. Cross a concrete track and pass the fine old house of ses Amitges. When the access road is reached for another old house, es Collet, don’t follow it, but turn right to climb to the Ma-10 road. Turn left to follow the main road, looking back to see Estellencs at the foot of Puig de Galatzó. The road passes

Alternative start C joins the main route here.

61

Trekking in Mallorca

The Casa de ses Collidores, near Planícia, is being converted into a refuge.

Fertile terraces are arranged around the village of Banyalbufar 62

olive terraces and is followed until a right turn is signposted up a concrete track. This track winds uphill and passes in front of the imposing house of Son Serralta de Dalt. Turn left to climb round the back of the house and enjoy views back to Puig de Galatzó. Just before the end of the track, step to the left to follow a narrow path into a forest of pines and holm oaks, with a mixed and tangled understorey. Climb gently round the slopes of Puig de na Foradada and go through a gateway in a wall, entering the Finca Pública de Planícia. The path undulates across rocky, wooded ground then crosses a narrow access road serving the old country house of Planícia.The path generally climbs as it enters a rugged, forested valley, reaching a small gateway in the bed of the Torrent de Can Cerdà. Climb a zigzag path to reach a signposted junction near Font de s’Obi. Turn left along an easy terrace path with fine views back to Puig de Galatzó and Mola de s’Esclop. Reach a mapboard at a gate in a tall fence; go through the gate and walk along a broad path between olive terraces. The way is well marked and signposted. Keep left as signposted for Banyalbufar, crossing a slope of leaning pines at Bosquet des Rafal, followed by more olive terraces. Pass quietly below the big house of es Rafel and walk down a forested slope to a gate. Go through the gate and continue down a winding path flanked by stone walls, with stone steps part of the way. Walk down a concrete access track and a

Stage 4 – Estellencs to Esporles map continues on page 64

63

Trekking in Mallorca

map continues on page 65

narrow road to reach the main Ma-10 road. Turn right into Banyalbufar and enjoy fine views of well-cultivated terraces as the road runs gently down into the village. Reach the Plaça de la Vila in the village centre, around 100m (330ft). 64

Stage 4 – Estellencs to Esporles

map continues on page 66

The attractive village of Banyalbufar clings to a steep slope and features neat cultivation terraces, with those just below the village full of oranges and lemons. A good range of services include a few hotels, bars and restaurants, as well as a bank 65

Trekking in Mallorca

map continues on page 68

66

Stage 4 – Estellencs to Esporles with an ATM, a post office and a few shops. Bus 200 links Banyalbufar with Estellencs, Esporles and Palma.

Leave the village centre by climbing from the Plaça de la Vila, up the narrow Carrer Jeroni Albertí. This is quite bendy and when it turns right its name changes to Carrer de la Font de la Vila.4The road climbs relentlessly past terraces of fruit and vegetables, dipping a little to cross the Torrent de Son Roig. The tarmac eventually ends at a stone gateway leading to Son Sanutges, which is off-route and out of sight to the right. The GR221, however, is signposted straight ahead uphill, where a narrow tarmac and concrete track quickly gives way to a stony path. The Camí des Correu, or ‘Post Path’, is rough and stony as it climbs a wooded slope past old terraces. Pine trees are passed then the path goes through a gap in a wall to enter holm oak woodlands. Pass another wall where the path broadens and rises as a well-buttressed, boulderpaved track to the gentle Coll des Pi at 454m (1490ft). An easier stretch of track runs gently down through Bosc de Son Valentí, with brief glimpses of mountains ahead. A limekiln stands to the left and a sitja is less obvious to the right. Keep straight ahead as marked where the path is cut by a forest track. Continue down through the woods and swing left across a stream-bed, passing other sitges. The track rises broad and clear, passing a gap in a wall where there are GR221 signposts. The track descends in a series of tight zigzags and is rough and rocky underfoot. Keep straight ahead at a junction as marked then keep to the right of a drystone wall.Keep right to avoid a track dropping down to the nearby house of ses Mosqueres. Some stretches of the track have their original paving intact, while other parts have been restored. Go through a gate and follow the boulder-paved path further downhill. Keep to the clearest path at all times, still fairly wooded, but also with olives in sight too. Go through another gate and later swing left to reach the Ma-1100 at a rocky cutting. Cross the road using

Sometimes, the conduit that gives the road its name gushes with water.

Those who know Mallorca well might briefly spot the distant hump of Randa, well beyond Palma, through a gap in the trees.

67

Trekking in Mallorca

68

Stage 4 – Estellencs to Esporles specially constructed stone ramps then walk parallel to the road and pass a junction opposite La Granja. An interesting folk museum, La Granja can be visited by making a short detour. La Granja has a long history and was a Cistercian property in the 13th century, later passing into private hands. The Vida and Fortuny families developed the site, building a splendid house in the middle of a lush, green country estate, once tended by over a hundred workers. It takes a few hours to explore all its features and there are haphazard collections of bygone articles to study, as well as the gardens and grounds outside. There is a restaurant on site and an entrance charge, tel 971 610032, www.lagranja.net.

The GR221 runs along the top of a stone buttress high above the road and follows a concrete watercourse for a while before dropping to cross an old road bridge. Soon afterwards, cross the road and climb a track on a wooded slope. Pass through a couple of gates and walk beside fields on top. Around 40 stone steps lead downhill and the narrow road of Costa de Sant Pere continues past the church of Sant Pere to reach the Plaça d’Espanya in Esporles, around 190m (625ft). The village of Esporles has a large central paved square flanked by shady plane trees, as well as a network of narrow streets in its older parts. The church has a fine rose window set high above the Plaça d’Espanya, but the rest of the building is a mixture of styles, with a separate rickety bell-tower at the back. There is a good range of services in the village. Accommodation options range from a hotel to a private refugi. There are banks with ATMs, bars, restaurants, shops and a post office. The bus stop is on Carrer Jaume I; bus 200 links Esporles with Palma, Banyalbufar and Estellencs.

69

Trekking in Mallorca

STAGE 5 Esporles to Valldemossa Start Finish Distance Total ascent Total descent Time Maps Refreshments

Plaça d’Espanya, Esporles – 555896 Plaça de Campdevànol, Valldemossa – 675957 9.5km (6 miles) 650m (2130ft) 440m (1445ft) 3hr 30min Alpina 25 Tramuntana – Sud & Central Plenty of bars and restaurants at Esporles and Valldemossa.

The GR221 was expected to be signposted and waymarked between Esporles and Valldemossa during 2005. That never happened, and instead only a short stretch beyond Esporles was marked in 2008. In fact, notices forbidding access appeared on either side of the well-wooded upland of Mola de Son Pacs, apparently erected by hunters. Regardless, walkers regularly follow the rough and stony paths and tracks. Trekkers have to decide for themselves whether to walk this stretch, or move ahead by bus. Dense woodlands obscure views most of the time, and without markers it is important to navigate carefully across Mola de Son Pacs and sa Comuna. This stage should allow plenty of time to explore a splendid monastic site at Valldemossa.

Start on the Plaça d’Espanya in Esporles, beside the church of Sant Pere. Cross the main road and walk along the narrow Carrer Nou de Sant Pere. Cross a bridge and walk through the little Plaçeta des Pla, heading right as signposted to continue along Carrer de Mateu Font. Turn right to cross a bridge onto the Plaçeta de sa Taulera, then turn left to follow a road out of the village. The road suddenly turns left, so leave it and walk straight ahead as signposted up a track. This swings left and narrows, then swings right and leads up to a road. 70

Stage 5 – Esporles to Valldemossa

map continues on page 73

71

Trekking in Mallorca The Esglèsia de Sant Pere on the Plaça d’Espanya in Esporles

To the right, the house of Na Servera offers lodgings for walkers.

72

Turn left as signposted along the road and keep straight ahead at a junction to pass a house called Can Nadal. Later, the fine old country house of Son Dameto can be seen well away to the left.Follow the road until it runs between stout stone gate pillars marked for Son Cabaspre. (The ‘private’ notices only apply to vehicles.) Turn right as signposted along the Camí des Bosc and rise gradually, catching a glimpse of the mansion of Son Cabaspre. The road swings left round the head of a valley, passing a solitary house called Finca Can Buades. Turn right to pass a low gateway and follow the Camí de sa Coma Llobera. This is a broken concrete track,

Stage 5 – Esporles to Valldemossa

map continues on page 76

73

Trekking in Mallorca

The grand house of Vistamar stands in solitary splendour among extensive olive groves.

The adjacent woodlands suffered extensive damage when trees were snapped in half by a tornado in September 2004.

74

which levels out on Coll de sa Basseta, at 455m (1493ft). Turn left up a track marked by a makeshift signpost for Valldemossa, but after only a few paces turn right up a vague, cairned path. There are no more obvious waymarks for the rest of this day’s walk, so pay careful attention to the route description. The path climbs a stony slope covered in holm oak woodland, passing a vague junction at a sitja, where it is best to keep left. Go up through an awkward gap in a wall and bear right soon afterwards. The path rises to another sitja and another junction in a shallow valley. Either direction works, but maybe it is clearer to turn right and follow a path that makes a rising traverse across a wooded slope. Pass another sitja and later join a rugged track. Turn left and later keep straight ahead at a junction. Simply stay on the clearest track through the woods, passing a stone igloo-like bread oven and yet another sitja. Later, several interesting features are arranged well to the left of the track, and are worth a short detour. A stone shelter, or porxo, has a barrel-vaulted roof, as does a nearby cisterna where water is stored. There is also another bread oven and a number of nearby sitges. Retrace steps and continue along the track, keeping right at a junction and passing a couple more sitges. As the track descends, a wall should be spotted to the left, and it is worth stepping across it for a view from a cliff edge.3 Keep walking down the track, which becomes a rugged path passing yet more sitges. Swing left and walk down to a wall and fence in a rocky cleft. It is important to find this cleft, which is one of the few breaches in the cliffs surrounding Mola de Son Pacs. At the foot of the cleft, drift left across a wooded slope, then follow a wall and fence down to Coll de Sant Jordi at 479m (1572ft). Turn left to go through a metal gate in the wall, then turn right to climb a broad, clear path flanked at first by a wall and a fence.3 The path narrows at a higher level and zigzags up a steep and rocky slope. Keep to the clearest path, although it can be vague at times. There are occasional views

Stage 5 – Esporles to Valldemossa A steep, rugged path climbs from Coll de Sant Jordi to sa Comuna

down to Vistamar and back to Mola de Son Pacs, as well as in the other direction to Palma, es Pla, Randa and the distant Serra de Llevant. However, it is difficult to find good viewpoints from sa Comuna, whose well-wooded summit rises to 704m (2310ft). Pass a couple of crude stone huts and go through a gap in a wall. Take care while following the rugged path through holm oak woodland, where thrush-hunters occasionally operate. Pass sitges and the path becomes much clearer, zigzagging down a steep and rocky slope. There are glimpses of Valldemossa below, but these are lost as the path passes an open cisterna. Continue straight downhill and the path swings right across a rocky, mossy, wooded slope. Go through an iron gate in a wall and follow the path to a covered cisterna beside a ruined building. The path drops straight downhill, passing through a gateway gap in a 75

Trekking in Mallorca wall. Continue downhill and pass through another gap in a wall, then the path is fenced. Eventually, a house is reached near Font de na Llambies. Turn right down a dozen stone steps and go through a broken stone archway. Follow a concrete road, which later passes through another stone arch beside Finca Son Messenya, passing an old windmill that has been converted to a dwelling at Es Molinet. Walk straight ahead if intending to visit the Reial Cartoixa, or turn left along Carrer de Uruguay to reach the main road and bus stop in Valldemossa, around 400m (1310ft).

76

Stage 5 – Esporles to Valldemossa VALLDEMOSSA

The Reial Cartoixa de Valldemossa is an extensive monastic site founded in 1399, and a visit could last for the rest of the afternoon. Rooms in the monastery were hired by unlikely lovers George Sand and Frederick Chopin during 1838–1839. Their story is told in the book A Winter in Mallorca, available in many languages around town. Busy, polished, stone-paved streets are often full of visitors and it is certainly worth wandering around the poky alleyways. Valldemossa has a good range of facilities, but accommodation is expensive. There are plenty of bars and the restaurants are fairly cosmopolitan. The local speciality is coca de patata, which is a light bun, one quarter made of potatoes, ideal for dipping into a cup of thick, hot chocolate a la taza. There are banks with ATMs, shops and a post office. Bus 210 runs from Plaça de Campdevànol to Deià, Sóller and Palma. Taxis are also available. A tourist information office is located on the main road, tel 971 612019.

Old Valldemossa, centred on the Reial Cartoixa, below sa Comuna 77

Trekking in Mallorca

STAGE 6 Valldemossa to Deià Start Finish Distance Total ascent Total descent Time Map Refreshments

Plaça de Campdevànol, Valldemossa – 675957 Bus stop, Ma-10 road, Deià – 700002 13.5km (8½ miles) 580m (1900ft) 870m (2855ft) 4hr 30min Alpina 25 Tramuntana – Central Plenty of bars and restaurants at Valldemossa and Deià.

This stage has yet to be waymarked, but it uses a series of mountain paths that are already very popular with walkers. The ascent climbs through a well-wooded valley, followed by rocky slopes leading to a high crest. A splendid path traverses the mountains, constructed as a carriage drive for the Archduke Lluis Salvador. The steep and rugged path used for the descent must be located with care; it exploits a breach in a fearsome cliff that overhangs in places. After negotiating fiddly paths among olive terraces on the lower slopes, the delightful hilltop village of Deià, beloved of artists, should be explored thoroughly.

The GR221 was originally planned to climb straight uphill, but that route now requires a permit to be obtained in advance.

78

Leave Valldemossa from the bus stop on Plaça Campdevànol. Walk past the taxi stand, along Carrer Rector Joan Mir, and turn right when the Camp de Futbol is reached. Climb through a crossroads and later turn left up Carrer de les Oliveres, which climbs beside olive terraces.3Turn right along Carrer dels Ametlers, which is also signposted as a public footpath. The road later changes its name to Carrer Hongria and descends to a junction. Turn left to follow Carrer Xesc Forteza, which becomes Carrer Toscana. Later, turn left again along a clear track signposted as a public footpath. There are gates along this track, as well as other tracks heading right and left, but simply keep straight ahead. Steep

Stage 6 – Valldemossa to Deià

map continues on page 81

79

Trekking in Mallorca forested slopes rise to the left and olive terraces fall to the right; look back to catch attractive glimpses of the Reial Cartoixa. Eventually, pass a gate and cattle grid at es Cairats, turning left at a track junction. Pass a small ruined building at Font de na Ropit and keep straight ahead at a junction. The forested valley features holm oaks, pines and tangled ground scrub, with cliffs towering above. The track climbs a couple of sweeping bends, passing wooden gates and a chunky stone stile. A signpost is passed, and the track keeps climbing to the right. Pass notices explaining about limekilns and charcoal-burning. The track becomes steeper as it climbs and several tight bends are covered in concrete. Pass a picnic site at Font des Polls and the track climbs to the Refugi de Son Moragues (marked on maps as the Refugi des Cairats). The track passes a snow-pit that was constructed on the orders of the Archduke Lluis Salvador – unfortunately it was built too low on the mountain, around 780m (2560ft), and failed in its purpose. A rugged, stony path continues climbing, soon levelling out on a fine terrace with good views back down the valley. Climb again, and as the path levels out again above the forested slopes, note a couple of cairns on the right where a path heads off-route to Puig des Teix. Ascent of Puig des Teix 2km (1¼ miles) there-and-back – 185m (605ft) ascent/ descent – 45min The rugged path soon involves a short rock scramble, followed by an awkward ladder stile over a wall. Notices explain that it is private property beyond, but watch how many walkers take any heed. The path later crosses a track then becomes rocky as it climbs. Bare rock features around a trig point at 1063m (3491ft) on Puig des Teix. Enjoy fine views back towards Puig de Galatzó then retrace steps to the cairned path junction. The path being followed is the Camí de s’Arxiduc, or Archduke’s Path, which was a scenic carriageway built 80

Stage 6 – Valldemossa to Deià map continues on page 83

81

Trekking in Mallorca

The high-level carriageway of Camí de s’Arxiduc near es Caragoli

Left is the Camí de Fontanelles. It is possible to descend to Valldemossa, but a permit should be acquired in advance.

82

on the orders of the Archduke Lluis Salvador. Although too rugged to take a horse-drawn carriage these days, it is very popular with walkers. Simply follow the clear path as it zigzags a short way up to the summit of Puig Gros, at 938m (3077ft). Views are remarkably extensive, stretching coast to coast as well as through the Serra de Tramuntana. Walk across a broad dip where there are pines and càrritx. Continue gently uphill, reaching a small stand of pines at Pla des Aritges. There is a big cairn and a signposted path junction at this point.Keep right and climb further. Cross a summit at 941m (3087ft) and look across a slight gap to a more prominent summit of bare rock. This is es Caragolí, rising to 945m (3100ft). Pass left of it, but note a rugged path on the right which leads to the summit. Climb again for a short way and watch carefully for a couple of cairns and a post, where a path drops to the right. This is trodden and cairned, but it needs to be followed carefully. Pass a stand of holm oaks, watching for a tight left turn into more holm oaks. It is essential that this path is located and followed faithfully, as it provides the only safe descent to Deià via the Cingles de Son Rul.lan.

Stage 6 – Valldemossa to Deià

83

Trekking in Mallorca

A post and a cairn for the descent via Cingles de Son Rul.lan

84

The path turns right and begins to drop steeply. Once underway, the path features well-engineered zigzags that should be followed faithfully, whether down through woods, hugging the base of overhanging cliffs, or crossing open slopes. There are views of the village of Deià, the substantial old country house of Son Rul.lan and the distinctive pierced headland of sa Foradada. Don’t follow any spur paths, but stay on the main path, which later zigzags fairly easily down a steep, boulder-strewn, wooded slope. The path crosses two sitges fairly close together. Go down more zigzags then turn right at a junction to pass a bread oven, sitja and a carboner hut. The path rises slightly to pass these then, as it descends again, notice a bathtub-like water trough carved into a huge boulder on the right. The path is broad and clear, turning left at another sitja with a limekiln alongside. The track finally leaves the woods and crosses ancient olive terraces with a view towards Deià. Don’t go through a gateway, but turn sharp right along an obvious track to stay on the olive terraces. The track descends in long and lazy zigzags down the terraces, where a rough cobbled track could be used as a short-cut.

Stage 6 – Valldemossa to Deià Watch for stone steps leading down from the track before it becomes overgrown with càrritx. A sloping terrace path passes a stone archway; have a look inside with a torch to find a well of water at the end. The path bends left, then it is necessary to step down to the left along another old, cobbled path. The path is often overgrown with càrritx, while old terraces of olives and carobs are overgrown with pines. However, there is only one path and it is easy to follow, regardless of its meanderings. Later, the path slices across the side of a valley with a view towards Deià, then the solitary house of Can Borràs is seen, surrounded by lemons. The path winds downhill towards it, passing through a stout stone gateway. Turn right down an access track, which becomes a narrow, winding road leading down to a hotel called es Molí. When the main Ma-10 road is reached, don’t be tempted to turn right for a direct approach to Deià. Instead, turn left gently downhill along a wooden walkway beside the road. Pass a bus stop just before the Restaurante Can Quet, and turn right down a minor road. Keep straight ahead at a junction and walk uphill to reach another junction. The Refugi de Can Boi stands to the right, around 140m (460ft). From the outside, Refugi de Can Boi looks like any other well-restored stone house in the village. Inside, it houses a bar restaurant, dormitories and a communal area. A large room at the back of the building is like a museum full of old stone structures, including a hearth, a water trough and a splendid old olive press. Tel 971 636186.

Turn left at the junction beside the refuge to continue into Deià. On the way uphill, turn left up another road then turn left again up a flight of almost 90 stone steps, called Calle Costa d’en Topa. These overlook terraces of oranges before reaching a road called Carrer es Porxo. Walk straight ahead to pass the post office then head left to reach the main Ma-10 road near the bus stop, around 180m (590ft). 85

Trekking in Mallorca DEIÀ

Deià’s name has Arab origins, and the village has expanded down from its original hilltop site. Find the time to wander round the narrow roads and stone steps, visiting the hilltop church where a couple of cannons point across the valley. Calle Es Puig, leading up to the church, is equipped with ceramic Stations of the Cross. Search for the burial place of Robert Graves – one of many artists and writers who found themselves attracted to Deià. Ca n’Alluny, La Casa de Robert Graves, or Robert Graves’ house, is signposted along the main road and can be visited, www.lacasaderobertgraves.org, tel 971 636185. A good range of services includes a number of hotels, from luxurious to budget, as well as the Refugi Can Boi. There are a couple of small banks with ATMs, a post office, shops, bars and restaurants. Bus 210 runs daily to Sóller and Port de Sóller, as well as to Valldemossa and Palma. There are also taxis.

The village of Deià clings to a steep-sided hill 86

STAGE 7 Deià to Sóller Start Finish Distance Total ascent Total descent Time Map Refreshments

Bus stop, Ma-10 road, Deià – 700002 Plaça de sa Constitució, Sóller – 756021 16km (10 miles), or 13km (8 miles) omitting the spur to Refugi de Muleta 420m (1380ft), or 320m (1050ft) omitting the spur to Refugi de Muleta 570m (1870ft), or 470m (1540ft) omitting the spur to Refugi de Muleta 5hr, or 4hr omitting the spur to Refugi de Muleta Alpina 25 Tramuntana – Central Snacks at Son Mico. Restaurant at Son Bleda. Bar at Refugi de Muleta. Restaurant at Muleta de Ca s’Hereu. Plenty of bars and restaurants at Sóller, or off-route at Port de Sóller.

This stage of the GR221 is fully waymarked and links with other signposted and waymarked trails around Vall de Sóller. The paths and tracks used are rough and stony at times, but are generally clear and easy to follow, crossing olive terraces and forested slopes with occasional mountain and coastal views. If walking from one refugi to another, note that the Refugi de Muleta lies on a spur extending north from the main route. If not using the refugi, then there is no need to walk the spur, and there are plenty of alternative lodgings around Port de Sóller and Sóller.

Start on the main Ma-10 road in Deià, walking from the bus stop in the direction of Sóller, but almost immediately head left down a narrow road as signposted for the GR221. (Disregard the timing on the signpost, ‘Sóller 2h 30min’, as this applies to a direct route.) The road soon ends at a school, so continue down a track called Camí de sa Vinyeta, winding down olive terraces with plenty of marker posts. Cross a winding road three times using 87

Trekking in Mallorca

map continues on page 90

88

Stage 7 – Deià to Sóller stone ramps and steps. When the road is reached a fourth time, turn right along it, then right again opposite a footbridge. The GR221 climbs from a stile, up a stony path, levelling out among olive terraces with a brief glimpse of Cala de Deià. Head right and join a track, following it gently uphill. Markers show the way past a building, followed immediately by a view of the fine country house of Son Bujosa among its orange groves. Follow the access road away from a cattle grid, and later turn right as marked up an old cobbled path to reach the Ma-10 road. Turn left to follow the bendy road with care. There is a brief view past the big house of Can Oliveres to Punta de Sóller, and later there is a view back to Cala de Deià. Watch out on the right, after passing a turning for Ca l’Abat, to spot stone steps rising between two houses, signposted for the Camí de Castelló. The path leads quickly up to a road bend, and the road is followed straight uphill past olive terraces. Watch for a marker post indicating a left turn up a rugged path. This levels out on a wooded terrace, from which there are views back to Cala de Deià, down to Llucalcari and ahead to Punta de Sóller. Climb by degrees to reach a small house, followed by the large house of Son Coll. Descend gently at first then drop down a restored stone-paved path to a junction. The Font de ses Mentides is signposted downhill, but the GR221 climbs a rugged old cobbled path. Cross a narrow access road and climb more gently, then descend near Can Miquelet to reach the base of a cliff among shady holm oaks. Pass huge boulders and a sitja, then pass through a rocky cleft among pines. Pass the base of another cliff and zigzag up a well-buttressed path, levelling out among pines afterwards around 310m (1015ft). Go through a gateway and walk along an olive terrace to a junction where a large, bare, circular era, or threshing floor, lies to the left. Keeps straight ahead and follow a track down to a gate. A big country house, split

It is worth walking another 1km (½ mile) down the road to see rustic fishermen’s huts at Cala de Deià.

89

Trekking in Mallorca

map continues on page 92

90

Stage 7 – Deià to Sóller into Son Mico and Can Prohom, is reached. Refreshments are available at Son Mico, and it is worth taking a look inside the house. The view from the garden stretches across Vall de Sóller to Puig de Bàlitx, Puig Major, Puig de l’Ofre and es Cornadors. Walk in front of the house and continue down a cobbled track to a restored chapel and a junction.4Turn left down a track to reach the Ma-10 road and a hotel at Son Bleda (Can Bleda on the map). Turn left along the main road, then right at a junction along a road signposted for Bens d’Avall and the GR221. The road runs downhill among pines, but there are views back towards Cala de Deià. Climb gently to a junction and turn right, where the tarmac soon gives way to a dirt road. Turn right again as signposted at a junction of gravel roads among olive groves. Puig Major is seen ahead in the distance. Turn left as marked down another track, which soon bends right as if approaching the stout stone house of Muleta Gran, with its fine tower. A decision needs to be made at a mapboard and three-way signpost at a track junction, around 190m (625ft). Turn left to visit the Refugi de Muleta, or if you prefer to omit this 3km (2 mile) there-and-back spur, continue directly ahead to Sóller.

It is possible to leave the GR221 and take the Camí des Rost or Camí de Rocafort more directly to Sóller.

To visit the Refugi de Muleta For the Refugi de Muleta proceed up a track, passing olive groves, with a fence to the right. The track narrows as it runs downhill, passing through a gap in a wall and becoming quite rocky. A rough and cobbly path passes bushy spurges, càrritx and amaryllis, then it bends as it passes old terraces and a few pines while crossing the Torrent de s’Argentera. There are marker posts among the scrub, as well as good views of Port de Sóller, then a signposted junction is reached. Keep right to climb a little, passing through a gate in a wall to reach the Refugi de Muleta, around 110m (360ft). Anyone visiting the refugi should retrace their steps to rejoin the main route afterwards, although some might wish to visit Port de Sóller and find an alternative route to Sóller. 91

Trekking in Mallorca REFUGI DE MULETA AND PORT DE SÓLLER

The Refugi de Muleta served as a telegraph station from 1912 to 1953 and stands next to a lighthouse – Far des Cap Gros. This stands above the narrow entrance to the harbour at Port de Sóller, and its twin stands opposite. The refugi has a dining room on the ground floor and dormitories upstairs. An open terrace lies in front of the building, with shaded picnic tables out the back. Book online (www.conselldemallorca.net) or tel 971 634271. The road serving the refugi can be followed down to Port de Sóller, which is a bustling little resort with hotels, banks with ATMs, plenty of shops, bars and restaurants, as well as a tourist information office, tel 691 779532. Bus 211 links Port de Sóller with Sóller and proceeds directly through a tunnel to Palma. Bus 210 links Port de Sóller with Sóller then runs via Deià and Valldemossa to Palma. A slow, bone-shaking vintage tram also links Port de Sóller with Sóller, terminating at the railway station. Taxis are also available.

map continues on page 94

92

Stage 7 – Deià to Sóller

To continue walking along the GR221 from the mapboard and three-way signpost, follow the track as indicated for Sóller. Go straight through a track intersection, where Muleta Gran lies to the right. Keep right, as if aiming to go round the back of the house, but later turn sharp left as marked and go down a stony path. Keep an eye on the marker posts as the path winds down past olives, rising and falling. It reaches a junction where the big house of Muleta de Ca s’Hereu stands to the left.4 If not visiting the house, keep right as signposted and walk down a rough, boulder-paved path, with fine views of the apparently land-locked bay at Port de Sóller. A gate leads onto a stony slope covered in olives, and another gate is passed later. Zigzag down a cobbled path to reach a three-way signpost at a path junction. A left turn leads to nearby Port de Sóller if required, otherwise keep straight ahead along a terrace path towards Sóller. When a concrete river channel is reached, a sign points out a direct route to Sóller via l’Horta, but this later involves busy roads. Instead, turn right to stay on the GR221, following a narrow path past a couple

Olive groves and rugged mountains seen near Muleta de Ca s’Hereu

Refreshments and accommodation are offered there.

93

Trekking in Mallorca

94

Stage 7 – Deià to Sóller of buildings. The path rises across a slope of pines and enjoys fine views across Vall de Sóller, with mountains rising beyond Sóller and its abundant citrus groves. Follow the path down to a track and turn right as signposted. The Camí de Binidorm leads to a signposted junction with a minor road. Turn left and walk straight ahead along the road, passing the Ca n’Ai hotel. Later, the road reaches a junction with a busier road. Turn right up this, then turn left and walk along a quiet road. Turn left at the Bar Sa Frontera, then use a pedestrian crossing while turning right at a roundabout, where there is a mapboard. Walk beside the busy Ma-11 road, but turn left just before the Km31 marker to follow the quiet road called Camí des Camp Llarg. Turn left when the busier Carrer de Cetre is reached. Pass a little bus station and go straight through Plaça d’Amèrica. The GR221 is signposted for Binibassí and Biniaraix, turning right at a staggered crossroads along the narrow Carrer de sa Mar. Tall buildings flank the road and the narrow pavements are polished like marble. Turn left after the museu, as signposted along Carrer de Baucà, reaching the busy Plaça de sa Constitució in the centre of Sóller, only 30m (100ft) above sea level.

Port de Sóller, as seen on the way to and from the Refugi de Muleta

95

Trekking in Mallorca SÓLLER

Sóller is the biggest and busiest town reached so far on the GR221. Its narrow canyon-like streets form a maze around the central Plaça de sa Constitució, which is dominated by the 17th century church of Sant Bartomeu. Naturally, there is a full range of services, including accommodation, banks with ATMs, post office, plenty of shops and bars, along with restaurants offering local and cosmopolitan dishes. The tourist information office is near the railway station, and is located in an old tram carriage, tel 971 638008. Despite being surrounded by high mountains, the town has direct road access to Palma through a long tunnel. There is also a rickety vintage rail link with Palma, but this is expensive and takes much longer to cover the distance, charting a circuitous course through 13 tunnels. It is used mainly by tourists. Taxis are also available.

The peaks of L’Ofre and es Cornadors rise high above Sóller

96

STAGE 8 Sóller to Tossals Verds Start Finish Distance Total ascent Total descent Time Map Refreshments

Plaça de sa Constitució, Sóller – 756021 Refugi des Tossals Verds – 845022 18 to 20.5km (11¼ to 12¾ miles) 1000 or 1180m (3280 or 3870ft) 500 or 680m (1640 or 2230ft) 6hr to 6hr 30min Alpina 25 Tramuntana – Central Bar at Biniaraix. Meals and refreshments at the Refugi des Tossals Verds.

This stage is full of contrasts. The morning is spent wandering through citrus groves between Sóller, Binibassí and Biniaraix. As the day warms up, a couple of thousand stone steps zigzag up through the canyon-like Barranc de Biniaraix. By the afternoon on the Coll de l’Ofre, some trekkers may despair at their apparent lack of progress, but paths become easier and are covered more quickly. After passing a reservoir, the Embassament de Cúber, the route climbs high above another, the Embassament des Gorg Blau. Dense woodlands are negotiated before a long descent follows a spur route to the only available accommodation, the Refugi de Tossals Verds. Alternatively, adventurous trekkers could finish by scrambling to Tossals Verds via the steep and rocky Pas Llis.

Leave the main square in Sóller, Plaça de sa Constitució, by following Carrer de sa Lluna. This is a narrow street of small shops, with pavements polished by constant use. Turn left along Carrer de la Victoria 11 Maig, signposted for Binibassí and Biniaraix. Don’t cross a bridge on the left, but keep straight ahead to cross another bridge, Pont dels Ases. Continue straight along Avinguda d’Asturies and cross yet another bridge. Turn right at a football ground, Camp den Maiol, as signposted for Biniaraix along Camí des Murterar, beside 97

Trekking in Mallorca map continues on page 101

98

Stage 8 – Sóller to Tossals Verds a bouldery riverbed. Follow the road upstream to a bridge called Pont de Can Rave, but don’t cross it. Instead, turn left as signposted for the GR221, walk up the road and turn right as signposted. From a crest on this road, Camí de s’Ermita, enjoy a view from Penyal des Migdia, round the high mountains to Puig de l’Ofre, es Cornadors and the rugged crest of Serra d’Alfàbia, back to Sóller and Coll de Sóller, with citrus groves filling the valley. The road runs down, up and down again, to where the tarmac ends. Turn left up a track to the gates of Can Bac, then turn right up a cobbled path to reach Binibassí and its huddle of charming villas.Walk down the narrow access road, Camí de Binibassí, and cross the Pont de Binibassí at sa Teulera to reach the busier Ma-2121 road, where there is a bus stop, with buses running to and from Sóller and Fornalutx. Turn left along the road, then right as signposted for Biniaraix, along Camí Horta de Biniaraix. Walk to the end of the road at Ca’n Serol then zigzag as marked up cobbled steps to reach a stone-paved road in the village of Biniaraix. Turn left up the stone-paved Carrer de

An alternative route (Alternative finish D), signposted initially for Fornalutx, leaves here and runs to Cala Tuent.

Looking down through the Barranc de Biniaraix to Sóller

99

Trekking in Mallorca Santa Caterina then left again to reach the Plaça de la Concepció. ‘Bini’ is an Arabic term meaning ‘house of’, and it appears all over maps of Mallorca. The houses in Biniaraix are tall and the streets are narrow, so it is generally well-shaded from the sun. The Bar Bodega Biniaraix stands on Plaça de la Concepció, where a plane tree provides shade.

The left-hand path leads to Es Verger and a few more houses.

100

Walk straight along the tarmac Carrer de Sant Josep, noting a rusty old footpath sign reading ‘Lluch a pie’, meaning Lluc by foot. Pass a fine communal washhouse at the end of the road. Turn right to follow a clear track signposted as the GR221, then keep right again at a junction, down to a footbridge and ford over a stream-bed that is usually dry. Follow a broad and clear stone-paved and stepped path uphill, bearing in mind that the Barranc de Biniaraix is one of the busiest walking routes on the whole of Mallorca, and is designated as a site of cultural interest. The path zigzags uphill, passing a signposted junction and crossing another footbridge. Massive buttresses hold ranks of olive terraces in place. Climb past a stone hut and note how the zigzags are piled one on top of another. The path enjoys a gentler and leafier stretch where water may well be flowing in the river, then the path and river have to squeeze through a narrow, rockwalled gorge at s’Estret. Watch for a little waterfall on the left while crossing a stone-arched bridge. Climb past more terraces and cross the river a couple more times using fords, stepping-stones or footbridges as desired. A junction of paths is reached at a house called Can Silles. Keep right, in effect straight ahead, staying on the GR221.The cobbled, stepped path zigzags up even more terraces, passing another house before climbing a less-cultivated slope while passing along the base of towering cliffs. There are fine views back down the valley to Biniaraix and Sóller. Later, a level path passes through a gateway and curves round a steep slope of càrritx,

Stage 8 – Sóller to Tossals Verds

map continues on page 102

101

Trekking in Mallorca map continues on page 103

A rugged path on the right leads towards the prominent domed summit of es Cornadors.

102

overlooking a rock-walled gorge at Salt des Cans. Soon afterwards, a path junction is reached, where the GR221 keeps straight ahead.3 Walk uphill to go through a gate near farm buidlings at l’Ofre, then turn left up a rugged path. A fine viewpoint is reached, taking in es Cornadors, the Barranc de

Stage 8 – Sóller to Tossals Verds

map continues on page 106–107

103

Trekking in Mallorca Biniaraix and Port de Sóller, while closer to hand is the conical Puig de l’Ofre. Join a clear track at a bend and continue up into pine forest. The track bends, then a path is marked on the left, zigzagging uphill. Cross the track to keep climbing, with more holm oak present, and pass a couple of sitges. Follow the track a short way beside a rock wall, then switch to a path up through a gap in a wall to reach open ground at the top of Coll de l’Ofre, at 875m (2871ft). A memorial cross of wrought iron rises from a cairn, and the eye is led along a valley to a reservoir at Cúber, with Puig Major and its distinctive summit radome rising steeply above. Follow a path straight downhill from the col and avoid the track altogether. Pass through pine forest with an undergrowth of juniper scrub and càrritx. Join the track again at a building, turning left as signposted to follow it through the largely treeless valley of the Torrent de Binimorat, which is grazed by sheep and horses. Pass a stone hut and eventually reach some gates. Go through a small gate to the left of the large gates barring the track. Walk down a path signposted as the GR221, crossing a ford to continue through level, sheepgrazed terrain. The path later runs near the reservoir, Embassament de Cúber, where a small refugi can be seen. The steep limestone slopes of Serra de Cúber are dotted with holm oaks. Cross a couple of concrete channels and turn right as marked along a track, reaching a gate giving access to the main Ma-10 road near the Km34 marker. (The road has a bus service between April and October linking Port de Sóller, Sóller, Lluc and Pollença, which are all on the GR221.) There is no need to step onto the main road, but follow a path parallel to it, passing pines while turning left round a bend to pass a ruined wall. Here a rugged variant route to Tossals Verds via Pas Llis is signposted straight uphill. Variant route from Cúber to Tossals Verds This variant saves 2.5km (1½ miles), but is much more steep and rugged than the main route from Cúber to 104

Stage 8 – Sóller to Tossals Verds Tossals Verds. It was cleared of undergrowth, and a rocky ramp had a chain installed for protection. It has been waymarked as part of the GR221. Anyone following it is likely to reach Tossals Verds before anyone on the main route, but one section requires hands-on scrambling, agility and a head for heights. A zigzag path climbs steeply from the signpost, rising above the pines onto slopes of càrritx where there are splendid views down to the Embassament des Gorg Blau, with Puig Major and Serra des Teixos rising either side of it. Pass above the rocky Coll de sa Coma des Ases, at 903m (2963ft), and go down through a gap in a drystone wall for striking views of Puig de s’Alcadena and Puig d’Alaró, with Randa and es Pla far beyond. A rough and stony path winds down slopes of càrritx, passing clumps of rosemary and later juniper bushes. The path appears to lead deep into the exceptionally rugged Almadrà valley. However, the path cuts across slopes of scree and càrritx, passes the base of a cliff then rather alarmingly begins to climb. A route hacked from bare rock, known as Pas Llis, is protected with chains, offering an exciting ascent. Once the pas has been negotiated, a rugged path cuts across rocky slopes bearing a few pines. There are plenty of ups and downs, ins and outs, but essentially there is only one path to follow. When a shoulder is crossed and a little valley is seen beyond, look out to spot the rooftop of Tossals Verds, then follow the path gently down and round the valley. Lose sight of the rooftop and pass olives and a couple of sitges. Climb the other side of the valley and keep right at a path junction, climbing

A chain offers assistance on the variant route via Pas Llis

105

Trekking in Mallorca

106

Stage 8 – Sóller to Tossals Verds

107

Trekking in Mallorca

Looking from Tossals Verds to Puig de s’Alcadena and Puig d’Alaró

108

a rugged paved path with a rustic fence alongside. Go through a gate on a rocky shoulder and walk straight down to Tossals Verds, around 520m (1075ft). Continuing on the main route from the variant signpost, a ladder stile leads into a car park at Font des Noguer, where it is necessary to head down to the road, turn right, then quickly right again to leave it (or walk through the car park if water is needed from a vigorous spring). Follow a plain and obvious concrete channel, the Canal des Embassaments, contouring across a forested slope around 750m (2460ft). Later, there are splendid views down to the Embassament des Gorg Blau, with Puig Major and Serra des Teixos rising either side of it. Holm oak woods obscure these views later, then a concrete bridge is signposted across the channel. Follow a rugged path up over Coll des Coloms, at 808m (2651ft). A path on the right is signposted for Puig de Tossals Verds, but note that this is not for the refugi, but climbs a rugged peak of the same name! Follow the path through dense woodlands, passing numerous sitges, zigzagging down to a junction where three paths are signposted as the GR221 at Prat de

Stage 8 – Sóller to Tossals Verds Cúber. A mapboard makes it clear that the main route turns left, while the path to the right is a spur route to the Refugi de Tossals Verds, over an hour away. If the refugi is visited, then steps must be retraced to this point. There is a view of Puig de Massanella rising above a forested valley, with a col to the left of it, and Lluc lies far beyond that, for those who are considering walking further. Turn right for Tossals Verds, following the path downhill, crossing a canaleta (aqueduct) and some black pipes. Cross a footbridge and walk downstream a little, then use a ford or stepping-stones to cross back again. A boulder-paved path gives way to a smooth path across rocky, wooded slopes, leading up to a small gate. The path heads downhill, while the view across the valley reveals the stone arches of the Canaleta de Massanella apparently clinging to a cliff. After a number of foreign engineers declared it an impossible task to construct an aqueduct from Font des Prat to Mancor, a local man called Montserrat Fontanet Llabrés rose to the task and built one – the Canaleta de Massanella – in 1748. Although the channel now carries a plastic water pipe, it still conveys water to Mancor, where a monumental font records the modernisation of the canaleta in 1983.

The path is rough and bouldery as it descends, with a view through the valley to the plains of es Pla and mountains of Serra de Llevant. Cross a gap covered in amaryllis and juniper near the ruins of ses Cases Velles, at 707m (2320ft). An old well, the Pou de sa Basola, lies away to the left. A signpost offers two ways to Tossals Verds, the GR221 being straight ahead, while a slightly shorter parallel alternative heads to the right. Follow the GR221 ahead and downhill, passing holm oaks and pines, avoiding other paths heading left. Notice a pipe that carries water down to the refugi. Olives are passed before the path drops a little steeper and more rugged. Go through a gate to reach the Refugi de Tossals Verds, around 520m (1075ft).

Alternative finish E describes a route south from Tossals Verds, ending at either Alaró or Orient. 109

Trekking in Mallorca REFUGI DE TOSSALS VERDS

This refugi was the first to be built when only a short stretch of the GR221 had been waymarked. Since its opening in 1995 it has proved very popular with local people, with weekends and holiday periods being particularly busy. With no other accommodation available nearby, it is probably best to secure a booking here before booking other places along the route. Tel 971 182027 or book online (www.conselldemallorca.net). If it proves necessary to leave the route here, a 2.5km (1½-mile) walk down through the valley leads through a magnificent gorge to a small parking area where a pick-up could be arranged in advance. Note that taxis do not favour this road, as it is narrow, uneven and full of potholes.

Puig de ses Vinyes and the Embassament de Gorg Blau

110

STAGE 9 Tossals Verds to Lluc Start Finish Distance Total ascent Total descent Time Maps Refreshments

Refugi des Tossals Verds – 845022 Santuari de Lluc – 902082 14km (8¾ miles) 830m (2725ft) 870m (2855ft) 6hr Alpina 25 Tramuntana – Central & Nord Bar restaurants and a shop at Lluc.

This is the highest and toughest part of the GR221, and it is entirely without facilities or services except for those at the start and finish. Paths are fairly clear and well-marked, but can be rough and stony underfoot. The start and finish are forested, but in-between there are high, rugged mountains. The remains of old snow-pits are passed as the route crosses high gaps on the shoulders of Puig de Massanella and neighbouring peaks. The main descent is along a splendidly reconstructed mountain path, the Camí de ses Voltes d’en Galileu. A final woodland walk leads suddenly to a huge monastic complex at Lluc.

Start by walking straight uphill from Tossals Verds, through a gate as signposted for the GR221.Zigzag up a rugged, cobbled path on a slope of olives, following the pipe that carries water to the refugi. Keep straight ahead at a path junction, climbing past pines and holm oaks, then keep straight ahead at another path junction. Cross a gentle gap covered in amaryllis and juniper near the ruins of ses Cases Velles, at 707m (2320ft). An old well, Pou de sa Basola, lies away to the right. Keep straight ahead and continue into woods, losing sight of Puig de Massanella, but gaining a view to the right down a valley to the plains of es Pla, with the Serra de Llevant beyond. The path rises and is quite rugged.

A slightly shorter alternative heads left, via Pou de sa Coma, otherwise stay on the main route.

The slightly shorter route from Tossals Verds rejoins the main route here.

111

Trekking in Mallorca map continues on page 114

112

Stage 9 – Tossals Verds to Lluc Look to the right to spot an old stone-arched aqueduct, the Canaleta de Massanella, clinging to a cliff. Go through a small gate on rocky, wooded slopes and a smooth path gives way to a boulder-paved path. Use a ford or stepping-stones to cross a stream, then walk upstream a little and cross a footbridge. The path crosses a canaleta and some black pipes, then reaches a junction of three paths, all signposted as the GR221, at Prat de Cuber. A mapboard makes it clear that the main route turns right for Lluc, while left leads all the way back to Cúber and Sóller. Turn right to follow a rugged path a short way down through a gap in a wall, then easier walking leads past a square corral and a couple of sitges, with a large carboner hut in-between. At a path junction there is an option to turn left to visit Font des Prat, returning later. Cross a stone-covered channel and a stone bridge over a riverbed to continue. The path climbs fairly gently among the woods, even levelling out as it passes a gateway between a wall and a huge, cliff-like boulder. The undergrowth is a mixture of càrritx and juniper. Several sitges can be seen, while a rock outcrop to the left allows an opportunity to look back down the valley, the Comellar des Prat. Pass the

Trekkers above Tossals Verds, with Puig de Massanella rising beyond

113

Trekking in Mallorca

map continues on page 116

114

Stage 9 – Tossals Verds to Lluc

water trough of Font de ses Tosses d’en Gallina, then the path climbs from holm oaks to pines then emerges onto slopes thick with càrritx and stunted pines. Stony zigzags climb higher, passing an old snow-pit and a ruined building, and a path might be noticed heading off to the right afterwards. Don’t follow it, but bear in mind that it offers a way onto Puig de Massanella, by way of a steep and rocky scramble. The clearest path leads to Coll des Prat, at 1220m (4000ft). A stout stone wall crosses this gap and there are fine views beyond, stretching to the north-eastern parts of Mallorca, from Puig Roig and Puig Caragoler to Puig Tomir, then from Alcúdia to the distant Serra de Llevant. Pass the wall and turn left to follow the path just a little higher across bare rock, then drop down through a cleft to continue. The stony path passes to the right of a snow-pit then drops down a steep and rugged slope of càrritx to reach Coll des Telègraf at 1126m (3694ft). Another snow-pit lies to the left, with Puig Major beyond, but the GR221 turns down to the right as signposted for Lluc. Yet another snow-pit is passed, along with the ruins of a building. Note the level platforms beside the pits, and the stumps of old telegraph poles.4

Looking back through Comellar des Prat on the way to Coll des Prat

There is a fine view down the valley to the sea. 115

Trekking in Mallorca Literally translating to ‘snow houses’, Cases de Sa Neu are ruins that recall a time when ice was a highly-prized commodity in hot Mediterranean countries. Snow falls most winters on the mountains of Mallorca, but it is often short-lived. In the past, in several high places, people would quickly gather the snow into heaps, compact it and store it in deep, stone-lined pits. Clumps of càrritx were cut and strewn in layers over the ice so that it would separate easily into blocks at a later date. Càrritx was also used to cover the pits and protect the contents from the sun. When ice was needed later in the year, it was cut from the pit and delivered at speed, generally being used in medical preparations. The snow-gathering industry ended abruptly with the advent of modern refrigeration. map continues on page 118

116

Stage 9 – Tossals Verds to Lluc Watch carefully for the path across a slope of càrritx and later turn left as marked to cross the valley of the Torrent de Comafreda. Look to the left, up the valley, to spot the stumps of old telegraph poles. The path is rough and rocky as it climbs from the valley, with views back to Puig de Massanella, Coll des Prat, Coll des Telègraf and Puig Major. A rugged, but gently graded gap is reached around 1140m (3740ft) beside the peak of Puig d’en Galileu. Turn left to follow the path across a slope of càrritx, rising and falling gently, with views from Puig Tomir and Ternelles to Puig Caragoler, Puig Roig and the deep-cut gorge of Torrent de Pareis. Swing round to the right as signposted for the GR221.4Follow a fairly level, but rough and stony path, before zigzagging down the steep and rugged Voltes d’en Galileu. The path is called Camí de ses Voltes d’en Galileu, and it starts with its old cobbled stonework intact. It was completely rebuilt further downhill, on a wooded scree slope, and it became very popular in a short time. There is a view of the Santuari de Lluc far below. The path features tighter zigzags as it drops down rugged, wooded scree slopes. When it runs through denser holm oak woodland, the path is more direct and passes sitges and a limekiln. The stone paving ends just above a snow-pit, giving way to a stony track. The track winds downhill, passing numerous sitges in dense holm oak woodland, including a big one on a bend. After the bend, keep straight ahead as marked at a track junction, then further downhill, turn right off a sharp, steep bend as signposted, to follow a lesser track at a gentler gradient. Later, this track bends left downhill, reaching a signpost. Turn right along a path and go through a small gate in a wall. Turn left to follow another track in broad loops downhill, avoiding houses at nearby Son Macip. Keep left just before reaching the main Ma-10 road, crossing as signposted. Walk down a rugged path through holm oak woodland, continuing along a broad, stony path and a restored paved path, then an old cobbled path. Pass from holm

It is worth turning left for Casa de Neu d’en Galileu – another nearby snow-pit.

117

Trekking in Mallorca

oak woodland, through a gap in a wall, onto old olive terraces where the ground is thick with cistus and amaryllis. As the path winds downhill, go through a couple of gateways, then a few steps lead down to a road at Font Cuberta. There is an old font and a bar restaurant to the right, as well as the only campsite beyond. The road leads down to a picnic area and car park. The Refugi de Son Amer is signposted to the right, across the car park towards another bar restaurant at Ca s’Amitger.

Alternative finish F describes a route south from Lluc to Caimari if time for the final stage is in short supply, or it could be taken as a worthwhile thereand-back detour. 118

The old building of Ca s’Amitger, the Centre d’Interpretació de Ca s’Amitger, was restored just outside the monastic complex and it serves as an interpretation centre for the Serra de Tramuntana. Leaflets and information about walking opportunities are dispensed in many languages, tel 971 517083 or 971 517070.

The Santuari de Lluc is only slightly off-route, around 480m (1575ft), and is reached by leaving the car park along a paved path, then passing through a lovely courtyard garden.3

Stage 9 – Tossals Verds to Lluc SANTUARI DE LLUC

According to legend, a small statue of the Virgin was discovered beside a stream by a shepherd-boy called Lluc. He showed it to a monk, who took it to a chapel at Escorca. The next day the statue disappeared but was found again beside the stream. This happened three times, as if giving a strong hint about the sacredness of the location, so a chapel was built beside the stream. History sheds little light on the foundation of the chapel, although it is mentioned twice in 13th-century documents and was already a place of pilgrimage. The site grew in importance throughout succeeding centuries and the current structure largely dates from the 17th century. Great honours have been bestowed on the monastery by bishops, princes and popes, while today’s visitors are enchanted by the voices of the adjoining school’s choir, which performs briefly each day in the richly decorated Basilica. Dressed in blue robes, they are nicknamed ‘Els Blauets’ and are recruited from around Mallorca. The ground plan of the monastery is extensive, and while some parts are private, there is a high degree of access around the site. Be sure to visit the herb garden behind the school, and take a stroll around the stone-paved Camí dels Misteris del Rosari, which encircles a rocky knoll and offers splendid views of rugged mountains arranged around a fertile plain. There is also a fine museum with exhibits stretching back to prehistoric times, tel 971 871525, www.lluc.net. LLUC

Services around Lluc include comfortable accommodation in former monastic cells, with meals available in the glorious former refectory of Sa Fonda, or at nearby bar restaurants. There is a small grocery as well as gift shops, and there are two ATMs. Outside the monastery and beyond Ca s’Amitger is a campsite – the only campsite on the GR221. There is a refugi nearby; see the start of the next day’s walk for details. Bus 332 runs daily between Lluc, Caimari and Inca, linking with bus and rail services to Palma and buses to Pollença. In the summer months a direct bus service links Lluc with Pollença, Cúber and Sóller.

119

Trekking in Mallorca

STAGE 10 Lluc to Pollença and Puig de María Start Finish Distance Total ascent Total descent Time Map Refreshments

Santuari de Lluc – 902082 Plaça Major, Pollença – 013142 19.5km (12 miles) 330m (1080ft) 760m (2495ft) 6hr Alpina 25 Tramuntana – Nord Bar restaurants at Lluc. Plenty of bars restaurants around Pollença.

The final stage of the GR221 is long, but is also fairly gentle, and mostly downhill. There are several junctions of paths and tracks throughout the day, so take care to spot the signposts and waymarks. For the most part, well-wooded slopes are crossed, although there are open spaces too. After heading from Lluc to Binifaldó, the route crosses the lower slopes of Puig Tomir. The last part of the route is virtually flat, following roads and a river through the well-cultivated Vall d’en Marc. The GR221 ends with a choice of routes into Pollença – either heading straight for the town centre, or climbing to Calvari and coming down an impressive flight of stone steps. For those with the time and energy there is an optional ascent of Puig de María from the centre of Pollença.

Leave the main gateway of the Santuari de Lluc and turn left along the road as signposted for both the GR221 and GR222. The road is straight, with a broad pavement alongside. Turn right at a gateway and cross a ladder stile. A track leads gently onwards and a restored watermill, Molí de Lluc, stands to the right. However, keep straight ahead and the track gives way to a path up a wooded slope to a small gate. Continue up a cobbled zigzag path to reach the Refugi de Son Amer. 120

Stage 10 – Lluc to Pollença and Puig de María Son Amer dates from the 13th century and its estate includes a chapel and watermill. The refugi occupies a hilltop site surrounded by woodland, with a garden terrace offering a fine view back to Lluc. Visit the basement of the refugi to see photographic displays about the evolving long-distance trail network on Mallorca. Both the GR221 and GR222 pass the refuge, and in time the GR222 will lead to the Serra de Llevant.

Signposts and markers show the way to stone steps leading down to an access track. The GR222 (and the route for Alternative finish F) turns right for Caimari and the GR221 turns left for Pollença. Keep an eye on the markers to pass a car park, then walk parallel to the main Ma-10 road. Cross it using the gates provided, then continue walking parallel to it. Later, veer away from the road and turn right to cross a stone-lined channel. map continues on page 123

121

Trekking in Mallorca

The Santuari de Lluc, as seen from the Refugi de Son Amer

A rugged track to the left features two restored carboner huts and leads to a fine mirador overlooking Lluc and its surrounding mountains.

122

A clear path leads up a slope of scrub to join a track going through a gap in a wall. Look back to admire Son Amer before climbing through mixed forest containing pines, holm oaks, arbutus and tree heather. Follow the bendy track until a path is marked off to the left. This rises to the restored chapel of s’Ermita de Son Amer, where there are a few little terraces, sitges and a view of the mountains flanking Puig de Massanella. Walk up to a track and turn left further uphill, passing more sitges and a limekiln.3Further up the track, head right as marked and cross a ladder stile over a wall and fence on Coll Pelat, around 690m (2265ft). A path leads quickly to a track, which is followed straight ahead past a few sitges in rocky woodland. Turn right at a signposted track junction. The track runs gently up and down before passing a gap in a wall beside Serra d’en Massot, where there is a view of bulky Puig Tomir ahead. Walk down the track but when it bends sharply right, keep straight ahead as signposted along a narrow, rugged path. This features plenty of ups and downs as it passes sitges and a ruin, but remains clear and obvious as it crosses a forested slope to reach the broad Coll des Pedregaret at around 650m (2130ft).

Stage 10 – Lluc to Pollença and Puig de María map continues on page 124

Cross a stone stile beside a gate and follow a road downhill. A signpost on the right indicates the Font des Pedregaret, where water issues from the flank of Puig Tomir. The road bends left and right before passing a restored building at Binifaldó, where school groups regularly visit to learn about the natural history of the area. Turn right at a ford and stepping-stones to follow a track, where notices alongside are available in braille. Fields rise on the right towards Puig Tomir, while stony scrub stretches to the left. Mountains form a complete circle including Puig Tomir, Moleta de Binifaldó, Puig de Massanella, Puig Roig and Puig Caragoler. A holm oak tree of considerable girth stands on the left of the track; it is known as Alzina d’en Pere and is estimated to be 500 years old! 123

Trekking in Mallorca

map continues on page 125

The track rises gently and is joined by the Camí Vell, or old road, from Lluc. Walk straight ahead and gently down into a forest with limited views. Pass through gates and follow the track beneath the rocky face of Puig Tomir, heading down through sparser woodland with an undergrowth of heather and cistus. The track is broad, rough, stony and increasingly bendy. Views range from the rugged Ternelles region to the spiky peaks of the Formentor peninsula in the distance, with Cuculla de Fartàritx closer to hand. Watch for marker posts, stepping down a cobbled path on the left to short-cut a bend from the track. Cross the track and go down a winding path that features old cobbles and restored surfaces. Pass the Font de Muntanya and land on the track again beside a bridge. Continue straight ahead downhill until a path is signposted away from the track. Use this to short-cut a bend, then continue along the track. Watch for another path short-cutting another bend, and land on the track again further downhill. Follow the track until a hairpin bend is reached at ses Covasses, where a narrow path is signposted straight 124

Stage 10 – Lluc to Pollença and Puig de María map continues on page 126

ahead. When a sitja is reached, step down to the left as marked. Walk down across a wooded slope alongside a wall and go through a wooden gate. The path runs down a steep, rugged, bouldery, wooded slope, becoming incredibly convoluted further downhill. Pass a couple of sitges and a limekiln and continue roughly parallel to a wall. Fork right as marked, and follow the woodland path downhill beside a tall fence. Turn right along a tarmac access road as signposted and continue down mock-paved concrete bends. After passing through a gateway, the mock paving gives way to a narrow tarmac road. Simply follow this straight ahead, bending right to pass Son Marc and Camp d’Avall, on the way past fields, orchards and nut groves in Vall d’en Marc. Eventually cross a bridge over a river to reach a junction with the main Ma-10 road. 125

Trekking in Mallorca

map continues on page 127

There might be changes here in the future, and the route might cross to the southern bank of the river.

126

Turn right as signposted for the GR221, following a riverside path, rather than the main road. The Torrent de la Vall d’en Marc is followed closely, and the path is quite rugged in places. Sometimes there is no water in the river, while at other times it may carry enough water to flood low-lying parts of the path, in which case it is best to double back and follow the road. The riverside path crosses a track beside some tall plane trees, where the big house of Can Serra can be seen across the nearby main road. Keep to the northern bank of the river, gradually approaching the main road to join it. Turn right to walk beside the main road, passing Can Pontico. A signpost indicates a right turn to a track, which in turn leads to a road. Further along, turn left along a track that runs parallel to the river, but some distance from it. Turn right as marked at a junction and cross a footbridge over the river at Pont d’en Barqueta. Continue straight along a road,

Stage 10 – Lluc to Pollença and Puig de María map continues on page 129

which leads unerringly to the Refugi del Pont Romà, around 60m (195ft), on the outskirts of Pollença. Refugi del Pont Romà is based in a former slaughterhouse, but this isn’t at all apparent from the smart decor. The Pont Romà itself can be found by heading a little further downstream, where the crumbling arches of an old bridge span the river. Although the refugi supplies food and drink, there is also access to a splendid range of bars and restaurants around Pollença. Walkers who aren’t intending to stay at the refugi can continue into town using a choice of routes.

Leave the refugi and turn right along the Carrer de l’Horta. This road could be followed straight into town, and is signposted as such, but a more impressive alternative is available. Turn right up Carrer de Gruat, a winding road that is also signposted as the GR221. The road is 127

Trekking in Mallorca flanked by the Stations of the Cross, which lead to the hilltop chapel of Església del Calvari at 125m (410ft). From there, after enjoying views across town to Puig de María, walk down 365 stone steps into the Plaça dels Seglars at the foot of the hill. Continue down the narrow Carrer de l’Ombra to reach the open Plaça Major in front of the church in the middle of Pollença. POLLENÇA

After days spent in the mountains of Mallorca, it can seem very hot in the centre of Pollença in the middle of the afternoon, barely 50m (165ft) above sea level. The town has a full range of facilities, including hotels and other accommodation, banks with ATMs, post office, plenty of shops, bars and restaurants. A tourist information office stands beside the leafy Jardins Joan March Servera, tel 971 535077, with a museum and old buildings alongside. Taxis are available, but for bus services walk down Carrer de Sant Domingo and turn right. Buses 340, 341 and 342 run to the nearby coast at Port de Pollença. Bus 340 runs across Mallorca to Palma, but usually it is quicker to catch the 341 or 342 bus from Pollença to Inca or Sa Pobla and catch a train the rest of the way to Palma.

Looking east from Calvari, over Pollença, towards Formentor

128

Stage 10 – Lluc to Pollença and Puig de María

129

Trekking in Mallorca Extension to Puig de Maria 5.5km (3½ miles) there-and-back – 275m (900ft) ascent/descent – 2hr

The fortified Santuari de la Mare de Déu del Puig sits on Puig de Maria

130

Anyone with a couple of hours to spare in Pollença can climb Puig de María. This is a small but very steep and rugged hill just outside town, crowned with interesting buildings. A chapel has existed on the summit since 1348, and by 1362 this was tended by the first female hermits in Mallorca. As a place of pilgrimage, the site expanded to include accommodation and dining facilities. In 1988 the last of the elderly nuns who ran the place retired, but the chapel remains open. Food and drink are available at a hostatgeria, where visitors can stay overnight. The hill is popular with Sunday strollers and is very busy on Easter Monday. Leave Plaça Major in the centre of Pollença, walking along Carrer de Sant Isidre, turning right at the end to reach the leafy Jardins Joan March Servera. Walk past the tourist information office and museu, continuing straight along a road, then turn left along Carrer del Bisbe Desbach. Take the second turning on the right, along

Stage 10 – Lluc to Pollença and Puig de María

131

Trekking in Mallorca Carrer del Puig de Maria. This reaches a Repsol filling station on a busy road, opposite the Bar Ca’n Bach. Cross the busy road to follow what appears to be a dead-end road. However, turn right and left along a track, reaching the main Ma-2200 road. Cross this road with care and follow Camí del Puig de Maria straight ahead. This narrow road rises and turns sharp right and left past a few houses and terraced gardens. The road becomes even narrower, with tarmac giving way to concrete, climbing in steep zigzags past holm oak, pines, carobs and fan palms. At the end of the road a wide cobbled path with steps continues climbing and leads unerringly to the summit. However, there is another path on the way uphill, heading off to the left, leading to the Mirador del Molí Vell; this offers a splendid a bird’s-eye view of Pollença. The top of Puig de María is entirely built-up, standing around 325m (1065ft). Go through a gate into a courtyard to face the chapel and enjoy excellent views from a parapet wall. Go through a gate to the left of the chapel to reach a picnic site behind it. Explore the buildings, noting that there is usually access between the chapel and the adjoining hostatgeria. Bygone artefacts can be studied in a small museum. Accommodation is available, as well as a bar restaurant, and there is a particularly spacious room that was once a refectory, tel 971 184132. Retrace steps to the centre of Pollença.

132

ALTERNATIVES

The village of Fornalutx is passed on the initial ascent of Alternative finish D

133

Trekking in Mallorca

ALTERNATIVE START A s’Arracó to Ses Fontanelles Start Finish Distance Total ascent Total descent Time Map Refreshments

Roundabout, s’Arracó – 475811 Ses Fontanelles – 504855 11.5km (7 miles) 440m (1445ft) 230m (755ft) 3hr 30min Alpina 25 Tramuntana – Sud Bar restaurants at s’Arracó. Basic refreshments at Ses Fontanelles.

This variant route from s’Arracó is, unlike the main route, signposted and waymarked. After climbing between rugged, arid hills to join the main GR221 near ses Basses, the route continues to Coll de sa Gramola, where the Ma-10 can be followed onwards to Ses Fontanelles. Using this variant saves a whole day’s walk, which might suit those who can’t spare the time for the entire trek.

Start at a roundabout and bus stops, then follow the road called Carrer de França into s’Arracó, passing the church of Sant Crist. Continue along the road, hemmed in by tall buildings, then turn left along Calle del Porvenir. The road is signposted as the GR221 and there are marker posts at most junctions on the way out of the village. Turn left at a signposted junction up Barri sa Clota. The road passes farms and there are occasional views back to s’Arracó. Keep taking note of the marker posts at junctions and the tarmac eventually gives way to a stony track. This becomes very bendy as it climbs through forest, passing left of a house called Can Corso. Keep climbing, turning left at a triangular junction, crossing a gentle, forested gap beside Puig d’en Corso, at almost 220m (720ft). The track descends and rises gently around the slopes of Puig 134

Alternative start A – s’Arracó to Ses Fontanelles map continues on page 136

135

Trekking in Mallorca

map continues on page 139

136

Alternative start A – s’Arracó to Ses Fontanelles d’en Guida, catching glimpses of little houses, or casetes, on old cultivation terraces. There might be fallen trees to negotiate just before the forest thins out, and the track climbs past Coll des Cucons, crossing rocky, scrubby slopes before passing the solitary ruin of Caseta de l’Amo en Pep. Follow the path across broken bedrock to reach a rocky, scrubby crest around 325m (1065ft), taking in views from Mola de s’Esclop to ses Basses, where a couple of buildings are seen sitting on a forested knoll. The path runs easily across a slope, then has a buttressed edge as it winds downhill. Keep right at a junction on the way downhill, before swinging left into a valley. Pass above a concrete dam and reach a junction of tracks. Keep right, but note a limekiln to the left among some pines. Follow a track that winds up a scrubby slope, passing more pines before reaching a junction below ses Basses, where there is a signpost and mapboard.4 The track climbs gently, keeping high above a valley, and is often buttressed with stone. There is a glimpse of s’Arracó downhill, with the coast far beyond. A sweeping zigzag later climbs past notices bolted onto a cliff, and old terraces are covered in maquis. Cross a crest at 390m (1280ft) and follow the winding track down to

Stage 2 of the GR221 is joined here, so turn right to follow it onwards.

Easy tracks and paths climb from s’Arracó to ses Basses

137

Trekking in Mallorca grassy spaces and pines at es Campàs. Go straight ahead where a chain is stretched across the track, and avoid other tracks to right and left. The main track runs gently downhill, passing tracks leading to little houses, as well as another chain. Reach the main Ma-10 road at 344m (1129ft) on Coll de sa Gramola. The Ma-10 road runs the length of the Serra de Tramuntana from Andratx to Pollença. It is equipped with prominent kilometre markers, and between each of these are smaller markers every 100 metres. Navigating stretches of the Ma-10 is simply a matter of counting off the markers, first noting the Km106 marker. In future, the first part of this road might be avoided if paths can be constructed across the slopes below.

Note the great girth of some of the old olive trees.

Turn left to follow the road up from Coll de sa Gramola, passing the Km106 marker. Go through a crumbling rock cutting, then the road runs gently down across a rugged slope where trees have been burnt. Pass the Km105 marker and continue through the level, cultivated Pla de s’Evangèlica, where a gritty path runs beside the road.3 The roadside path ends and a road on the right rises at sa Coma de ses Selles. The GR221 might go that way in the future, but an alternative route is well worth considering. Follow the main road further downhill to the Km104 marker and turn right along the Camí de ses Fontanelles. This access track leads to Ses Fontanelles at 280m (920ft), from where Stage 3 of the main route starts. Until 2016, there was no accommodation for trekkers on the GR221 between Sant Elm and Estellencs. A private 12-bed refugi is now available at Ses Fontanelles, and the owners have signposted a route past the property. They prefer trekkers to book a few days in advance, tel 971 940941. Breakfast is offered, along with basic refreshments, but anyone staying overnight should take food for their evening meal.

138

Alternative start A – s’Arracó to Ses Fontanelles

139

Trekking in Mallorca

ALTERNATIVE START B es Capdellà to Estellencs Start Finish Distance Total ascent Total descent Time Map Refreshments

es Capdellà – 544812 Església de Sant Joan Baptista, Estellencs – 555896 16km (10 miles) 580m (1900ft) 560m (1840ft) 5hr Alpina 25 Tramuntana – Sud Bars restaurants at es Capdellà. Drinks machine at Galatzó. Bar restaurants at Estellencs.

There was a plan at one point to run this variant route coast-to-coast from Peguera to Estellencs. A walking route was constructed at great expense parallel to the road from Peguera to es Capdellà, and this is well worth the extra effort, but the first signposts for the GR221 are at es Capdellà. The route runs through the Finca Galatzó estate, which was brought into public ownership in 2006, and boasts a number of interesting paths. A gap in the mountains is crossed, where another private property was brought into public ownership in 2002. The route makes a convoluted descent to Estellencs. Using this variant route effectively replaces the first two-and-ahalf days of the main route.

ES CAPDELLÀ

The name of this remote village is derived from es cap d’alla, meaning ‘the very end’. Towards the close of the 17th century a number of houses were documented, which belonged to agricultural labourers on the surrounding estates, and these houses gave rise to the village of es Capdellà. Facilities include a bank with an ATM, a post office, a couple of shops and a bar restaurant. There is also an office for the Finca Pública Galatzó. Bus 111 links es Capdellà with Palma.

140

Alternative start B – es Capdellà to Estellencs map continues on page 143

141

Trekking in Mallorca

Almond groves in the Comellar de ses Sínies beyond Galatzó

Start at a crossroads at Plaça de Bernado Calvet in es Capdellà, around 130m (425ft). Follow Carrer de Galatzó, which is signposted for the Finca Pública Galatzó. A mapboard and signpost are passed at a junction with Camí del Graner del Delme. The road later becomes a track passing almond groves, olive groves and small farms, reaching a gateway on a gentle, wooded gap beside Puig Matós. A track leads gently down into a marvellous valley, full of fertile red earth, flanked by the towering peaks of Mola de s’Esclop and Puig de Galatzó. Stay on the main track to reach the Finca Galatzó, where a huge old building features a courtyard, chapel, oil press and several outbuildings. Dating from the 13th century, Finca Pública Galatzó, an extensive estate that was once private property, was purchased in 2006 and opened to the public. At first, only native Mallorcans and school parties seemed aware of the place, but tourists now arrive in increasing numbers. The estate is well-placed for excursions onto the mountains of Mola de s’Esclop and Puig de Galatzó, and formerly overgrown paths have been cleared. Take note of signposts on the way through, so that plans can be made to explore more

142

Alternative start B – es Capdellà to Estellencs map continues on page 145

thoroughly in future. All who visit this secret valley will want to return. It is hoped that refuge accommodation will be provided here in future.

Keep to the right of the main building to pass beneath an arcade and follow a walled track, which continues through almond groves. Keep to the main track at all times, which means turning right at a junction, as signposted for ses Sínies. The track drops gently into a sparsely forested valley, passing fan palms. Go 143

Trekking in Mallorca

The path heading right leads towards Pas des Cossis and Puig de Galatzó. It can be used to reach Estellencs.

144

through a stone gateway and pass two limekilns – one small and one large – both to the left. Wander gently up through the valley, winding alongside the Torrent de Galatzó. Watch out for a sitja, carboner hut and limekiln on the right. A picnic site is located in the shade of pine trees later, with a reconstructed sitja and carboner huts. Keep following the track to approach Pou de ses Sínies. There is a junction of tracks just before the pou, or well; turn right, then decide whether to make a short detour to the archaeological site of Naveta de ses Sinies. Later, avoid a turning to the right, then watch for a marker post and follow a path cut through càrritx, winding up a rugged slope and passing above an old trough. Also watch out for a well at Font des Poll, hidden on the other side of the path. A steep and rugged climb includes views of Puig de Galatzó for a while, and some parts of the path feature old cobbling and stone buttressing. There is a view back to the sea at a higher level, and the path climbs past a sitja and passes the occasional pine tree. Climb past another sitja at a higher level, noting how the course of the old path has been cleared in preference to any other trodden line. Always keep sight of the path, noting another sitja to the right, climbing to a signposted junction. Turn left to follow the GR221.3 The mountains loom large as the path zigzags further uphill, buttressed with boulders and passing a few stout pines. A signpost is reached near a gap at 652m (2139ft), and the main route (Stage 3) is joined. Cross a stile over a wall and turn left as marked to follow a clear track down through a fire-damaged forested valley below Serra des Pinotells. When a junction is reached, keep left to continue down a lower track. The refugi of sa Coma d’en Vidal is passed, around 550m (1805ft). (This should have been providing accommodation when it was first acquired, back in 2002, but when it finally opened in 2016, it was only available to large groups.) The track leading away from the building is flanked by an avenue of trees, then it passes through a gate,

Alternative start B – es Capdellà to Estellencs map continues on page 147

145

Trekking in Mallorca Cliffs rise above forested slopes on the descent from Coma d’en Vidal

Before reaching the road, a track on the right could be used to short-cut a very convoluted stretch of the route.

146

where there is a glimpse of the coast. The track is very steep and convoluted as it descends, passing through a formidable wall and fence that once barred access to the property. There are splendid views of the high cliffs of es Morralàs, forested slopes and the coast. Pines give way to holm oaks as the track winds further downhill, reaching a signposted junction near a water tank. Turn left to continue downhill and the track joins the Ma-10 road at the Km97 marker. Turn left to follow the bendy road, watching for a signpost on the right. A winding path runs down a

Alternative start B – es Capdellà to Estellencs

147

Trekking in Mallorca forested slope to land on an old highway, which is now a forest track. Follow it gently downhill round a series of tight bends. When it passes above a little house in the forest, join another track and turn right to continue. When this bendy track later approaches the main road, fork left at a junction beforehand. The track becomes a path running parallel to the road, passing the Km96 marker. Join the road to walk round a descending bend at Coll des Pi. Turn left as signposted at a junction to walk down an old, narrow road in a series of tight zigzags. Turn right at a junction far below, passing a house and a towering stone wall. Overlook orange groves while passing other road junctions, continuing straight towards the village of Estellencs. Turn left along the main road when the Hotel Maristel is reached, quickly reaching the church of Sant Joan Baptista, around 150m (490ft). Stage 4 of the main route starts here. The first mountain village on the GR221, Estellencs is surrounded by steep terraces, forested slopes and rocky mountainsides. Accommodation is available at two hotels – the Maristel and the Nord. There are a few bars and restaurants, a shop, a post office and an ATM. Bus 200 links Estellencs, Banyalbufar, Esporles and Palma.

148

ALTERNATIVE START C Calvià to Estellencs Start Finish Distance Total ascent Total descent Time Map Refreshments

Carrer Major, Calvià – 574796 Església de Sant Joan Baptista, Estellencs – 555896 18.5km (11½ miles) 840m (2755ft) 810m (2660ft) 6hr Alpina 25 Tramuntana – Sud Bars restaurants at Calvià, off-route at Galilea, at Puigpunyent and Estellencs.

This variant route looks long on a map, but most of the way follows quiet roads and good tracks. It can be used instead of the first three days of the main route. The route is signposted as the GR221 from Calvià to Puigpunyent, but the continuation towards the Coll d’Estellencs has simpler waymarking. The convoluted and well-wooded descent to Estellencs is entirely unmarked and requires careful route-finding. It is important to avoid the access road serving Son Fortuny, where walkers are not welcome, but the lower parts of this old path are now badly eroded and very overgrown. Despite being a Camino Real, or public right of way, this route actually ends with a locked gate at Estellencs!

The 13th-century church of Sant Joan Baptista looms over the Plaça de la Vila in Calvià. Despite being in the town centre, it enjoys good views out into the surrounding countryside. Facilities in the town include banks with ATMs, a post office and several shops, bars and restaurants. Bus 111 links Calvià with Palma.

If arriving in Calvià by bus, get off at a staggered crossroads at the bottom of Carrer Major, around 120m (395ft). Follow Carrer dels Montcada gently uphill. Turn right at the end to continue along Carrer de Son Mir, 149

Trekking in Mallorca map continues on page 153

150

Alternative start C – Calvià to Estellencs later noticing a GR221 signpost for Puigpunyent. Follow the road uphill and it becomes the Camí des Molí des Castellet, running along the foot of a well-wooded little hill called es Castellet. The road leaves town and rises through Vall Negra, reaching a mapboard. Turn left as signposted along a broad track called Camí des Pou Nou, climb a slope covered in almonds, then turn right along a clear path on a wooded slope. Go down through a gateway and pass a concrete aljub (small reservoir), then climb a steep and stony path. This bends and climbs along the foot of a cliff. When a path junction is reached, a left turn is signposted for Aljub d’es Pou Nou, which is worth a visit, otherwise keep right up a slope of dense maquis to reach an access road beside Puig de Son Font. The road is the Camí d’es Pou Nou and there is a glimpse of the south coast. Climb past houses to reach a junction and turn left along Camí d’es Molí Fariner. Follow this bendy road up to another junction and turn left up the Camí de Son Font. The bendy road climbs past some fine modern houses in the Son Font estate. Although a stone gateway is marked as private property, simply follow Camí de Na Morruda onwards. There are stout gates at the end of the road at Na Morruda, which is also marked as private property. If the gates are closed, step through a small gateway alongside. The road runs downhill and quickly gives way to a broad dirt road with a view ahead to the mountain village of Galilea, with Puig de Galatzó beyond. Stay on the dirt road and avoid all other tracks, heading downhill and uphill, with fences and forest on either side. The track narrows and reaches a gate with a builtin stile. Beyond it, the path passes a mapboard outlining the route. Continue over a forested crest at Coster de ses Gatoves, over 420m (1380ft), with a good view of Mola de s’Esclop and Puig de Galatzó. Keep to the clearest path, which means turning right as marked, then left, to follow a broader path, again with fine mountain views. The path runs level and passes above some olive terraces. Join a track at sa Planeta and continue straight 151

Trekking in Mallorca ahead and downhill, reaching another mapboard where a gate with a built-in stile leads onto the Ma-1032 road at Coll des Molí de Vent, around 380m (1245ft). At this point, the nearby village of Galilea can be reached by turning left; otherwise turn right and follow the road towards Puigpunyent. Galilea is worth a 1km (½-mile) detour off-route if time can be spared. A huddle of houses was

The village of Galilea, with cloudcapped Puig de Galatzó beyond 152

Alternative start C – Calvià to Estellencs recorded here in the 14th century, while the name of the village dates from 1550, when the area was said to resemble the Holy Land. The church stands around 420m (1380ft). Apart from fine houses spilling down a steep slope, there are a couple of hotels and bar restaurants serving speciality local dishes. Bus 140 links Galilea with Puigpunyent and Palma. map continues on page 154

153

Trekking in Mallorca map continues on page 156

154

Alternative start C – Calvià to Estellencs From Coll des Molí de Vent, walk down the road a little in the direction of Puigpunyent, then step down to the left as signposted. Steps and a path drop beside a small house and an old cobbled path soon crosses a track. Continue down a broader path to reach a bend on the Ma-1032 road. Keep straight ahead down the road, round a bend, then go down a path on the left to shortcut through another bend. The road runs past orange groves and there is a view of Puig de Galatzó to the left later. Walk down past a church to reach a crossroads in the centre of Puigpunyent, around 210m (690ft). Accommodation is available in the hilltop hotel of Son Net, outside the village of Puigpunyent. Other facilities in the town include banks with ATMs, shops and bar restaurants. Bus 140 links Puigpunyent with Palma, and also runs to and from Galilea.

Follow the Ma-1101 road straight ahead, up through Puigpunyent, until it bends right for Es Grau. Keep straight ahead along another road and go through black gates to follow the Camí Vell d’Estellencs. This old road climbs towards the palatial old house of Son Fortesa, first seen

The Camí Vell d’Estellencs rises high above Puigpunyent

155

Trekking in Mallorca map continues on page 159

156

Alternative start C – Calvià to Estellencs towering above lemon terraces, while other terraces may be churned up by pigs. Before reaching the house, turn sharp right as marked, up through a gate and into woods. Zigzag up to a gate made of a bedstead, go through it and turn left. Climb to a track and turn right to follow a clear and obvious old track. The track has a buttressed edge as it winds uphill through a pine forest, with a glimpse of Puig de Galatzó ahead. A broken water channel accompanies the track, so when the track suddenly bends right, follow a rugged path parallel to the old water channel, short-cutting a bend to return to the track near a ruin at sa Teulera. Turn left up the track, noting the ruined house of Muntanya overlooking olive terraces. Keep right as marked to avoid the house and climb into dense holm oak woodland, reaching a stout gateway in a wall. Go through and turn right as marked, climbing parallel to the wall through the woods. The path is rugged, but at a higher level turn right as marked along a clearer track. When the wall drops down to the right, keep climbing along the track to reach a junction on a crest. It is worth stepping to the right for a fine view of Puigpunyent from a rocky edge, otherwise turn left for the final climb along a rugged, stony track, levelling out to reach the well-wooded Coll d’Estellencs at 652m (2139ft). Go through a gap in a stout stone wall.4Catch a glimpse of Estellencs and the north coast far below, then start following the path down through dense woodland at es Pins Vers. The Camí Vell, or old road, is generally the clearest path or track on the descent, so avoid any lesser paths on the slopes. The first turning left, for instance, heads towards Galatzó, so keep right and continue downhill. There are a couple of places on the higher slopes where it is possible to turn left or right, as both options quickly rejoin. Go through a gate in a fence and later turn right near a pylon. Turn left at a junction and later right at another junction, passing another pylon. Go through a gateway gap in a wall and turn left at a junction, but look to the right to spot Font de Son Jover. Soon afterwards,

A ladder stile alongside was used in previous years when there was a locked gate at this point.

157

Trekking in Mallorca

Turning left offers the easiest exit to Estellencs, but the road is private and a large gate might be locked.

pass an aljub where water from the font was stored. These features confirm that the correct route is being followed. Zigzag down overgrown old olive terraces and pass yet another pylon. Later, keep left at a junction then simply stick to the clear, stony track as it passes old terraces, or passes through boulder-strewn woodland. The big old palatial house of Son Fortuny is close, but it should not be approached. Instead, turn right at a junction and follow a track beside a fence, overlooking tilled cultivation terraces. Go down past a building and keep right along a narrow path to cross the bouldery bed of the Torrent de Son Jover. Go through a gate and take great care along the old path, which is crumbling into the ravine of Torrent de s’Aigua. Go through another gate, cross a canaleta – a narrow channel carrying water – and land on a road.Turn right up the road, but only as far as a pine tree, then turn left along a path and go through a small gate. The path is mostly flanked by walls, fences and bushes, then it quickly becomes very narrow and overgrown. Hopefully, enough walkers will have passed to tread some of the vegetation out of the way, but it can be very awkward to make progress. Brambles tear at clothes and flesh, while tall, dense canes fill the valley floor. Suddenly, a splendid paved path continues beside a stream, and rather annoyingly reaches a locked gate. This can be passed without too much difficulty, reaching recycling bins beside the main Ma-10 road. Turn left to pass a communal washing place and follow the road up into the charming old village of Estellencs, quickly reaching the church of Sant Joan Baptista, around 150m (490ft). Stage 4 of the main route starts here. The village of Estellencs, like Galilea and Puigpunyent, lies in the mountains and is surrounded by steep terraces, forested slopes and rocky slopes. Accommodation is available at two hotels – the Maristel and the Nord. There are a few bars and restaurants, a shop, a post office and an ATM. Bus 200 links Estellencs, Banyalbufar, Esporles and Palma.

158

Alternative start C – Calvià to Estellencs

159

Trekking in Mallorca

ALTERNATIVE FINISH D Sóller to Cala Tuent Start Finish Distance Total ascent Total descent Time Maps Refreshments

Plaça de sa Constitució, Sóller – 756021 Jetty, Cala Tuent – 807102 17km (10½ miles) 700m (2300ft) 730m (2395ft) 5hr Alpina 25 Tramuntana – Central & Nord Plenty of choice around Sóller and Fornalutx. Bar restaurant at Mirador de ses Barques. Basic refreshment at Bàlitx d’Avall. Restaurant at Cala Tuent.

A variant of the GR221 is being planned between Sóller and Lluc. At the moment, none of it is specifically signposted as the GR221, but the route has long been signposted between Sóller and Cala Tuent. The route is popular, passing three old country houses at Bàlitx, then crossing a col for a highlevel coastal walk at Sa Costera. This route could be used as an alternative finishing point by those who don’t have the time to complete the entire trek. However, it only works if a pick-up can be arranged at Cala Tuent. Ferries occasionally link Cala Tuent and Port de Sóller, but it is important to be absolutely certain of their timetables and restrictions. Hiring a taxi would be very expensive.

Leave the main square in Sóller, Plaça de sa Constitució, by following Carrer de sa Lluna. This is a narrow street of small shops, with pavements polished by constant use. Turn left along Carrer de la Victoria 11 Maig, signposted for Binibassí and Biniaraix. Don’t cross a bridge on the left, but keep straight ahead to cross another bridge, Pont dels Ases. Continue straight along Avinguda d’Asturies and cross yet another bridge. Turn right at a football ground, Camp den Maiol, as signposted for Biniaraix along Camí des Murterar, beside 160

Alternative finish D – Sóller to Cala Tuent a bouldery riverbed. Follow the road upstream to a bridge called Pont de Can Rave, but don’t cross it. Instead, turn left as signposted for the GR221, walk up the road and turn right as signposted. From a crest on this road, Camí de s’Ermita, enjoy a view from Penyal des Migdia, round the high mountains to Puig de l’Ofre, es Cornadors and the rugged crest of Serra d’Alfàbia, back to Sóller and Coll de Sóller, with citrus groves filling the valley. The road runs down, up and down again, to where the tarmac ends. Turn left up a track to the gates of Can Bac, then turn right up a cobbled path to reach Binibassí and its huddle of charming villas.Turn left up cobbled stone steps, as signposted for Fornalutx. Keep climbing until a junction is reached, then turn right, go through a gate and walk downhill between olive terraces. Join a concrete road and follow it straight ahead, passing the Cementiri Municipal and a village mapboard on the way into Fornalutx. Keep

The main route continues down the access road towards Biniaraix – see Stage 8.

map continues on page 163

161

Trekking in Mallorca straight ahead, following the stone-paved Carrer Joan Albertí Arbona, reaching a five-way junction of streets, around 150m (490ft). Carrer de sa Plaça leads straight to the central square, otherwise turn left up Carrer des Toros to continue walking. When the stone paving ends, turn left up a concrete road signposted for Tuent. This is the Camí de Bàlitx, which passes a big house called La Bisbala, continuing past olive terraces. Short-cut a bend on the road by using a short flight of stone steps, then continue climbing up a longer flight of steps. Watch for marker posts to spot other short-cuts, rising past olive terraces and patchy woodlands. The narrow road leads from Binirrossí to another road, where a left turn leads quickly to the main Ma-10 road. Turn left and walk a short way down the road, then turn right up a signposted path. This rises and falls gently as it follows terraces across a slope. Despite crossing land used for a multitude of purposes, there are no barriers, gates or stiles. When the path joins a concrete track, simply walk straight ahead until a signpost points right, beside a gate and ladder stile. A rugged path climbs past olive trees and goes through a gate to the left of a house. Walk up a track until a marker post indicates a right turn up some steps. A clear, rough-cobbled path climbs a partly wooded slope. When a signposted path junction is reached, go through a gate and continue climbing towards the Ma-10 road. Turn left to walk parallel to the road, with a cable alongside. Reach a car park and bar restaurant at Mirador de ses Barques, around 400m (1315ft). Climb to the top of the mirador to enjoy a view over Port de Sóller. A signpost beside the car park indicates the path for Tuent, Sa Costera and Bàlitx, climbing stone steps. Pass a house on a concrete track, around 490m (1610ft), walking through an avenue of holm oaks. Pass a few houses, go down through a gate and walk past olive trees, later joining a dirt road called the Camí Vell de Bàlitx. Turn right to follow this across a cattle grid, while drawing close to the big house of Bàlitx d’Amunt. 162

Alternative finish D – Sóller to Cala Tuent map continues on page 164

163

Trekking in Mallorca map continues on page 166

164

Alternative finish D – Sóller to Cala Tuent

Go down through a gateway in a tall wall before reaching the house, following the dirt road until it suddenly bends left. Walk along a cobbled path as marked, going down steps. Just before reaching the Font de Bàlitx, turn left, then later turn right to follow the path back down to the dirt road to pass the big house of Bàlitx d’Enmig. The dirt road continues, passing some pines. When a small house is seen to the left, turn left as if to visit it, but then turn right as signposted along a rugged path. The path passes olives, then goes through a gateway gap in a wall to enter a forest. Zigzag down a cobbled path with steps, emerging from the trees to continue down a track, keeping to the right of the big house of Bàlitx d’Avall.4Cross a ford or footbridge across a streambed and walk up a rugged track. Turn right along a signposted, cobbled path, rising to a gateway in a wall. Don’t go through the gateway, but follow the path uphill and go through a higher gateway to reach a bend on a track. Follow the track further uphill on the forested slope, keep right at a junction and cross the Coll de Biniamar, at 365m (1198ft).

Looking down on Port de Sóller from the Mirador de ses Barques

Accommodation and freshly squeezed orange juice are offered here.

165

Trekking in Mallorca Anyone descending to explore will have to climb back the same way, and the path is quite rugged, along with a climb of around 150m (490ft).

map continues on page 167

166

Walk down the bendy track among holm oaks, using a cobbled path to short-cut a bend. Keep an eye on markers at junctions, and when a signpost is reached, note an arch off to the left. The path eventually leaves the woods and undulates across a steep and rugged slope. At one point, a three-way signpost points downhill for sa Fàbrica, where a hydro-electric plant once operated.3 The path to Cala Tuent involves some climbing as it passes along the foot of some cliffs. After passing through a succession of old gateway gaps, the path crosses Coll de na Polla and descends into a forest. Join a track near a house and turn left to follow it, but soon turn left down another path, back into the forest. Turn right along a track, but watch for steps down to a signposted path junction. Turn left to reach a tall mast, then go down steps, passing a house to reach the road-end restaurant of es Vergeret. Drop from the road to go down a path as marked, which is soon signposted as it crosses the road at a lower level. Continue down rugged steps to find a signpost

Alternative finish D – Sóller to Cala Tuent beside the bay of Port de Tuent. The few houses that can be seen on the wooded slopes above the bay constitute Cala Tuent, and there are no services for visitors. Walk across a crunchy shingle beach to reach a small jetty and another road-end. If a ferry is due, then enjoy the sailing to Port de Sóller. To check timetables tel 971 630170, barcoscalobra.com. If a taxi has to be called, expect it to cost rather more than €60 to Sóller.

167

Trekking in Mallorca

ALTERNATIVE FINISH E Tossals Verds to Alaró or Orient Start Finish Alternative finish Distance Total ascent Total descent Time Map Refreshments

Refugi de Tossals Verds – 845022 Orient – 795983 Alaró – 819951 9.5 to 18km (6 to 11 miles) 120 or 690m (395 or 2265ft) 420 or 750m (1380 or 2460ft) 3 to 6hr Alpina 25 Tramuntana – Central Plenty of choice if finishing at Alaró. Bar restaurant on Puig d’Alaró. Restaurants at Orient.

This alternative route allows the GR221 to be finished early by heading for Alaró, but it is also possible to keep walking and enjoy a more adventurous finish, as well as the possibility of spending a night on top of Puig d’Alaró. The first half of the route passes through the Solleric estate, where a through route was negotiated some years ago. The route passes easily between two of Mallorca’s most striking mountains on the way to Alaró. Those who wish to climb Puig d’Alaró will not be disappointed, and if not tempted to spend a night on the summit, a descent can be made to the charming village of Orient.

It is possible to leave the route, following the road for over 1.5km (1 mile) to a small parking area, where a pick-up could be arranged in advance.

168

Leave Tossals Verds, around 520m (1705ft), by walking down its access road, but turn left as signposted for Alaró down stone steps. The first of these are restored, but the remainder are mostly old, cobbled and uneven. The path descends past olive terraces and rejoins the road. Turn left to continue down the road then turn right as marked. The path drops, crosses the road, drops again and rejoins the road. Turn right and follow the road down a left-hand bend. A signpost points to the right and a track crosses a bridge over the Torrent d’Almadra, around 370m

Alternative finish E – Tossals Verds to Alaró or Orient map continues on page 170

(1215ft). Go through gates and turn left as signposted along a path. This passes olive terraces, becoming a fine old highway, solidly built and buttressed with stone, with evenly spaced stone bollards on either side. The old road rises gently and is quite bendy in places. Keep left at a signposted junction, avoiding a spur to the derelict house of Casa Nova. 169

Trekking in Mallorca

map continues on page 173

170

Alternative finish E – Tossals Verds to Alaró or Orient Later, turn right up a path, short-cutting bends on the old road. Cross over at a higher level, then the next time the old road is reached, pass through a gate, cross a gap at 465m (1525ft) and reach the Plaçeta d’en Sion. Keep left at a junction near a small building. Go down an old tarmac road whose surface is breaking into gravel. Keep straight ahead past a signposted junction, then turn right as marked down a path. Turn right again to continue down the bendy road to Solleric. Turn left as signposted at a junction to pass below all the buildings. Go through a gateway and later turn right as signposted through another gateway. Follow an old track with more gates, running parallel to a fearsome gorge drained by the Torrent de Solleric. The deep valley is flanked by the impressive mountains of Puig de s’Alcadena and Puig d’Alaró, which both feature steep wooded slopes and sheer cliffs. Walk round a side valley and pass a signposted junction below a derelict house at Font Figuera. Note how the stone paving underfoot has been laid in two parallel lanes. Also note the hotel of s’Olivaret on the other side of the valley. Pass through a couple of old gateways, then the track reaches a ford in the riverbed, where steppingstones and a handrail are available if any water is flowing. Continue past gates and follow the track until it joins a road. Walk straight ahead, but note the big old country house of Son Berga to the left. Follow the road past groves of almonds and oranges, passing occasional houses. The mountains of Puig de s’Alcadena and Puig d’Alaró continue to dominate the broad and fertile valley. Keep straight ahead at road junctions, rising slightly to join and follow the main Ma-2100 road, around 220m (720ft). Walk along a generous verge while following this road, passing the Km18 marker. Keep straight ahead past carob trees, and maintain that direction if intending to visit Alaró or finish there.

Admire the old buildings and agricultural implements, as well as a collection of large pottery jars.

Carrer de Solleric, Carrer del Pontarró, Carrer Can Ros and Carrer Petit lead straight into Alaró, where narrow streets reach the open space of Plaça de 171

Trekking in Mallorca la Vila in the town centre, near the church of Sant Bartomeu. There are small hotels, banks with ATMs, a post office, shops, bars and restaurants. Bus 320 links Alaró with the railway station of Consell/Alaró, which is actually 4km (2½ miles) away.

The GR221, however, turns right up a road called Camí de sa Sort, which is signposted for Castell d’Alaró. Camí de sa Sort rises past almond groves to reach a higher junction; turn right and follow the road through a gateway near the big house of Son Penyaflor, which offers accommodation. The winding road climbs past old olive terraces, now invaded by other trees so that the rugged slopes are quite well-wooded. Some of the road bends could be shortcut in the past, but have since been closed to walkers. However, when a huge boulder stands beside the road, a signpost indicates a good short-cut zigzag path. Follow the road again, keeping left when it splits into separate one-way carriageways that soon join again. Turn right as signposted up a stone-paved path that climbs in sweeping zigzags on a rugged, wooded slope. There are steps as the path climbs higher and higher, approaching a sheer cliff that rises above the holm oaks and pines. A signposted junction is reached with another path, so keep right and keep climbing more stone steps. The path wriggles its way through two fortified stone gateways that were built to defend the mountain-top. Although it looks as though only ruins of Castell d’Alaró now stand on Puig d’Alaró, keep climbing to discover a lovely chapel and the Hostatgeria del Castell d’Alaró. Visit the 821m (2694ft) summit, where views look one way towards Alaró and the plains, and the other way towards the Serra de Tramuntana. Puig d’Alaró is a naturally defended peak, surrounded on all sides by cliffs. Very little man-made fortification was needed to render it almost impregnable. It was a hill fort before recorded history, and 172

Alternative finish E – Tossals Verds to Alaró or Orient map continues on page 175

map continues on page 174

its later Moorish defences were replaced following the Conquest mounted by Jaume I in the 13th century. There were periods of building in the 14th and 15th centuries, while the current chapel, the 173

Trekking in Mallorca Santuari de la Mare de Déu del Refugi, dates from the 17th century. As a site of pilgrimage, a hostatgeria was founded to offer food, drink and lodgings. This has recently been restored, extended and now incorporated into the refugi provision along the GR221. Tel 971 182112.

The path onto Puig d’Alaró passes through fortified gateways

174

Naturally, anyone climbing Puig d’Alaró must descend from the mountain afterwards. One possibility is to retrace steps all the way down the road, past Son Penyaflor, and head for the town of Alaró – a distance of 6.5km (4 miles). The other option is to descend to Orient – a distance of 4km (2½ miles). For Orient, retrace steps back through the fortified gateways and

Alternative finish E – Tossals Verds to Alaró or Orient walk down to the first signposted path junction. Turn sharp right and walk down steps, then traverse a steep, wooded slope. A few steps lead through a cleft in a rocky outcrop, then further along, steps descend to a signpost on a wooded gap around 700m (2295ft) at Pla des Pouet.4 Turn right and walk down a forested slope where there is barely a trace of a path, although a worn, rugged groove soon develops. When a tumbled wall is reached, go left or right, but preferably right, down a steep slope of holm oaks. Pass through another tumbled wall and continue across a slope of olives, enjoying valley and mountain views. A gate and stile lead onto a road beside a sign for Coll d’Orient, at 498m (1634ft). Turn left and follow the road past a hotel at l’Hermitage. Soon afterwards, note a signpost on the left for the Pas de s’Escaleta, for a future visit. The road

It is possible to keep left and descend to a restaurant at es Verger, then continue down the road to Alaró.

175

Trekking in Mallorca The village of Orient, in a fertile valley flanked by high mountains

enjoys good views of the village of Orient before finally descending to it, finishing around 460m (1510ft). The village of Orient is a charming huddle of fine old buildings, but facilities are sparse. There are just a couple of hotels with restaurants. Bus 221 occasionally links Orient with Bunyola, but seats on this service must be booked at least the day before intending to travel, tel 617 365365. At Bunyola there is a link with bus 220 for onward travel to Palma. 176

ALTERNATIVE FINISH F Lluc to Caimari via GR222 Start Finish Distance Total ascent Total descent Time Map Refreshments

Santuari de Lluc – 902082 Bus stop, Caimari – 917023 9km (5½ miles) 210m (690ft) 520m (1705ft) 2hr 15min Alpina 25 Tramuntana – Nord Bars and restaurants at the Coll de sa Batalla and Caimari.

This route is part of the GR222 trail, which will ultimately stretch from Lluc, across the plains of es Pla, to the distant Serra de Llevant. At the moment the only parts waymarked and signposted are from Lluc to Caimari, and in the Serra de Llevant. The route to Caimari offers a shorter and quicker option for finishing, if there isn’t time to walk all the way to Pollença. Alternatively, if plenty of time is available, it is worth including this route for its own sake, then catching a bus from Caimari back to Lluc in the afternoon. Buses in the other direction link with the railway station at Inca.

Leave the main gateway of the monastery at Lluc and turn left along the road as signposted for both the GR221 and GR222. The road is straight, with a broad pavement alongside. Turn right at a gateway and cross a ladder stile. A track leads gently onwards and a restored watermill, Molí de Lluc, stands to the right. However, keep straight ahead and the track gives way to a path up a wooded slope to a small gate. Continue up a cobbled zigzag path to reach the Refugi de Son Amer. Son Amer dates from the 13th century and its estate includes a chapel and watermill. The refugi occupies a hilltop site surrounded by woodland, with 177

Trekking in Mallorca a garden terrace offering a fine view back to Lluc. Visit the basement of the refugi to see photographic displays about the evolving long-distance trail network on Mallorca. Both the GR221 and GR222 pass the refuge, and in time the GR222 will lead to the Serra de Llevant.

There is a filling station with a shop and bar restaurant as well as a bus stop.

178

Signposts and markers show the way to stone steps leading down to an access track. The GR221 turns left for Pollença and the GR222 turns right for Caimari. Walk up the access track then turn left down an old wooded path. Go through a gap in a wall and cross a footbridge over a water channel. A path leads up to a road at the Urbanització des Guix. Walk on a road running parallel to the main Ma-10 road, as marked and signposted for the GR222, up past the Bar Restaurant Can Gallet, to reach a road junction. Note the distinctive ‘Camí Vell de Lluc’ stone beside the road, as more of these will be noticed along the way. Turn left to follow a path beside the Ma-2130 road, which is signposted for Caimari, crossing the Coll de sa Batalla around 590m (1935ft).3Cross the road and follow a path alongside, crossing a footbridge over the Torrent de Comafreda. Pass a mapboard and follow a track gently uphill on a forested slope. Keep straight ahead and avoid all turnings to the right. This is an old road and the stout oaks alongside were probably planted when it was made. Emerge from the trees alongside an unfinished building at es Guix, where there are views down the valley to the plains of es Pla. The track leads gently downhill, passing a bouldery rock-fall in a dip. Note a couple of sitges on the track, which were clearly made after the track had fallen into disuse, or they would have blocked any traffic. Climb along a cobbled stretch, passing a couple of places where the edge has collapsed. After another bouldery rock-fall, go through a striking cleft at Sa Bretxa Vella, where there is a cliff to the right and a pinnacle of rock to the left. Turn a corner for a fine view across the plains to the Serra de Llevant. The old track runs around 600m

Alternative finish F – Lluc to Caimari via GR222

map continues on page 180

179

Trekking in Mallorca

180

Alternative finish F – Lluc to Caimari via GR222 (1970ft), while the modern road below is around 450m (1475ft). The cobbled track has an intriguing patterned surface as it runs down through another cleft, passing another fine viewpoint. It is stoutly buttressed on the left and later flanked by amaryllis, càrritx and woody scrub, with pines dotted around. Look through a gap between two hills to spot the distant hill of Randa. When a junction of tracks is reached, turn right, uphill, crossing a col at Sa Llengonissa, at 533m (1749ft). The track is stony as it winds downhill, but some bends are surfaced in concrete. Keep to the clearest track as marked, dropping into the forested valley of Torrent de Coveta Negra, where pines give way to holm oak woodland, with plenty of bare limestone slopes. The track runs along the floor of a valley, passing beneath an overhanging cliff where there is a memorial tablet. A few sitges are passed, including one with steps leading up to it. Gates are reached at a road bend, but normally there is no need to step on the road. The GR222 goes under an arched bridge beneath the Ma-2130 road, and is only impassable on rare occasions when the stream is in flood. A picnic area is reached on the other side. The road is stoutly buttressed and a path has been constructed on another buttress, climbing to reach a higher bend. Turn right to leave the road and pass the lovely old house of Son Canta, which stands on olive terraces. An old path winds downhill and its original cobbled surface links with reconstructed stretches, becoming quite broad as it drops to the road near the Km9 marker. Cross the road to pick up another cobbled path running parallel. When this rises to the road again, keep right as signposted for Caimari. Pass between a huge buttress supporting the road, and a massive boulder with trees growing on it, easily mistaken for a cliff. Stone steps offer a short-cut down and there is a view down the valley to Selva and Randa. The track drops as it runs parallel to the road then the road must be followed onwards. Walk carefully as there is little respite from the traffic, and pass a Serra de 181

Trekking in Mallorca

Looking back uphill from a bus stop just outside the village of Caimari

Tramuntana sign on the way down into the village of Caimari. By all means head left as signposted for the centre, to find the Plaça Major, otherwise stay on the main road as if heading for Selva, to find bus stops at a crossroads around 170m (560ft). Caimari is the end of the GR222 until it is waymarked across the plains to the Serra de Llevant. Anyone walking out of the village at present will find that signposts are exclusively for cyclists. Olive oil is important in this area, handled by a company called Oli-Caimari. Facilities in the village include shops, bars, a bank, post office and ATMs. The Plaça Major lies in a quiet part of the village, overlooked by a church. Bus 332 links Caimari with Lluc, if returning to the GR221, or Inca, for onward travel by train to Palma.

182

ALTERNATIVE FINISH G Pollença to Port de Pollença Start Finish Distance Total Ascent Total Descent Time Map Refreshments

Refugi de Pont Romà, Pollença – 012147 Port de Pollença – 071174 7km (4½ miles) 0m (0ft) 60m (195ft) 2hr Alpina 25 – Caps del Nord Bars and restaurants at Pollença and Port de Pollença

This stretch of the GR221 is technically the main route, but as it does no more than run alongside a busy main road, it is better to regard it as an alternative route. Pollença is a fine old town in which to finish, and if an ascent of Puig de María is made, that is an even better way to finish. However, those who wish to continue all the way to the end, and have the satisfaction of completing a coast-to-coast trail, simply grit your teeth and walk alongside the busy Ma-2200 to Port de Pollença. One day, this stretch of the route will have greater significance, once the trail is extended onto the rugged Formentor peninsula, where the ultimate aim will be to finish at a remote lighthouse on the Cap de Formentor.

Leave the Refugi de Pont Romà and turn right along the nearby Carrer de l’Horta. Quickly turn left along Carrer del Pont Romà. Cross the narrow stone-arched bridge of Pont Romà and turn right to continue along the dirt road of Camí de Can Joanot. The road soon reaches a junction where a right turn is made, still following the Camí de Can Joanot, though now it is a tarmac road. Pass houses and cultivated areas to reach another junction and turn left. A broad pavement and an avenue of trees accompany the road to a roundabout. Keep right to pass the roundabout and use a pedestrian crossing to continue alongside the busy Ma-2200 road, as signposted for Port de Pollença. Always stay on 183

Trekking in Mallorca the southern side of this road, never crossing it, and take care at all junctions along the way. Also bear in mind that although there is a generous path running parallel to the road, cyclists may be travelling along it at speed, so exercise caution at all times. There is no mistaking the way ahead, and the gradient is virtually level, although while passing la Punta,

184

Alternative finish G – Pollença to Port de Pollença walkers might wish that they were climbing along the rugged crest of Serra de la Punta, away from the traffic. Follow the road past houses and cultivated areas, then keep to the right of two roundabouts as marked and signposted, finally entering Port de Pollença. The road makes a bee-line through the town centre and the final GR221 signpost is found at a roundabout beside a marina.

map continues on page 186

185

Trekking in Mallorca

PORT DE POLLENÇA

This is a busy and popular resort with a full range of services and plenty of accommodation. In the summer months a bus runs through the mountains to Lluc and Sa Calobra. Other buses regularly link Port de Pollença with Pollença, as well as with nearby coastal resorts. There is a tourist information office, tel 971 865467.

The end of the trail at the harbour in Port de Pollença

186

Distance

Total (excluding Stage 10 extn)

Pollença to Puig Maria (return)

Stage 10 extn

14km (8¾ miles)

Tossals Verds to Lluc

Lluc to Pollença

Stage 9

Sóller to Tossal Verds

Stage 8

Stage 10

18 or 20.5km (11¼ or 12¾ miles)

Deià to Sóller

Stage 7

9.5km (6 miles)

140.5km (87.5miles)

5.5km (3½ miles)

19.5km (12 miles)

13 or 16km (8 or 10 miles)

13.5km (8½ miles)

Esporles to Valldemossa

Valldemossa to Deià

Stage 5

14km (8¾ miles)

13km (8 miles)

12km (7½ miles)

8.5km (5¼ miles)

Stage 6

Ses Fontanelles to Estellencs

Estellencs to Esporles

Stage 3

Sant Elm to Ses Fontanelles

Stage 2

Stage 4

Port d’Andratx to Sant Elm

Start/Finish

Stage 1

Time

2hr

6hr

6hr

6hr or 6hr 30min

4hr or 5hr

4hr 30min

3hr 30min

4hr 30min

4hr

4hr

3hr

Route summary table

APPENDIX A

Ascent

6140m (20,140ft)

275m (900ft)

330m (1080ft)

830m (2725ft)

1000 or 1180m (3280 or 3870ft)

320 or 420m (1050 or 1380ft)

580m (1900ft)

650m (2130ft)

660m (2165ft)

600m (1970ft)

520m (1705ft)

370m (1215ft)

Descent

6150m (20,185ft)

275m (900ft)

760m (2495ft)

870m (2855ft)

500 or 680m (1640 or 2230ft)

470 or 570m (1540 or 1870ft)

870m (2855ft)

440m (1445ft)

620m (2035ft)

730m (2395ft)

240m (790ft)

370m (1215ft)

130

120

111

97

87

78

70

61

53

45

38

Page

Appendix A – Route summary table

187

188

s’Arracó to Ses Fontanelles

es Capdellà to Estellencs

Calvià to Estellencs

Sóller to Cala Tuent

Tossals Verds to Alaró or Orient

Lluc to Caimari via GR222

Alternative start A

Alternative start B

Alternative start C

Alternative finish D

Alternative finish E

Alternative finish F

Alternative starts and finishes

Start/Finish

9km (5½ miles)

9.5 to 18km (6 to 11 miles)

17km (10½ miles)

18.5km (11½ miles)

16km (10 miles)

11.5km (7 miles)

Distance

2hr 15min

3hr to 6hr

5hr

6hr

5hr

3hr 30min

Time

210m (690ft)

120 to 690m (395 to 2265ft)

700m (2300ft)

840m (2755ft)

580m (1900ft)

440m (1445ft)

Ascent

520m (1705ft)

420 to 750m (1380 to 2460ft)

730m (2395ft)

810m (2660ft)

560m (1840ft)

230m (755ft)

Descent

179

170

160

149

140

134

Page

Trekking in Mallorca

APPENDIX B Glossary Pronunciation tips Castilian Spanish is pronounced exactly as it is spelled, so once the rules are grasped a reasonable attempt at pronunciation is possible. Stress is normally on the last-but-one syllable unless an accent indicates otherwise. There are plenty of English–Spanish phrasebooks available, and every effort should be made to use the language. Opportunities for English speakers to learn Catalan are limited but resources can be found online. Castilian Spanish

The following is a basic reference guide, but it is best to listen to people speaking the language in real life. a b c ch d e f g gu h i j k l ll m n ñ o p q r

between a in lass and in father – adiós – goodbye as in English – banco – bank used before i and e, like th in thin – cinco (thinco) – five used before anything else, as in cat – cliente – customer as in church – chico – boy used at beginning of word, like d in dog – dos – two used at the ends of words, like th in though – verdad – true as in men, but at end of word as in day – leche – milk as in English – fácil – easy used before a,o,u, or consonants, as in gas – gasolina – petrol used before e and i as ch in loch – gente – people used before a, like gw – agua (agwa) – water is always silent – hombre (ombre) – man between i in bit and in machine – litro – litre like ch in loch – ajo – garlic as in English – kilo – kilo as in English – libro – book like lli in million – me llamo – I’m called as in English – mantequilla – butter as in English – naranja – orange as ni in onion – los niños – the children between top and for – oficina – office as in English – pan – bread like English k – quizás – perhaps pronounced slightly rolled – el norte – the north 189

Trekking in Mallorca rr s t u v x y y z

pronounced strongly rolled – carretera – main road voiceless hiss, as in sin – seis – six as in English – tienda – shop as in boot – usted – you like a soft English b – vaso (baso) – glass used at end of word, like tch – Felanitx (placename) used between vowels, like gs – taxi (tagsi) – taxi like y in yes – mayor – bigger the word y, as the i in machine – y – and as th in thick – manzana (manthana) – apple

The three double letters ch, ll and rr are considered as separate letters by the Spanish Academy so they have separate sequences in Spanish dictionaries. Catalan

The sounds are broadly the same as for Spanish, including those pronounced as in English, but with a few notable exceptions. Mastering the rules ensures that placenames will be pronounced correctly. c used before e or i is soft, otherwise hard, never lisped: cinc (sink) – five ç sounds like s in English – plaça (plassa) – square g used before e or i is soft, otherwise hard j is pronounced soft the same as the French pronounce Jean ll like lli in million l.l sounds like ll in English, as in col.laboració – collaboration ny is always used in Catalan where Spanish uses ñ – Bunyola/Buñola qu used before e or i like k, but before a or o like kw r is pronounced rolled at the start of a word v used at the start of a word sounds like b, otherwise sounds like f z is pronounced like an English z and is never lisped Placenames

Andratx Biniaraix Lluc Mallorca Pollença Puig Sóller Valldemossa 190

an-dratch bini-a-raitch l’yook my-orka pol-yen-sa pooj (with a soft j) sole-yair vall-day-moh-sah

Appendix B – Glossary Basic words and phrases

Some very basic words and phrases are included here because it can be useful to have them without having to carry a phrase book. Note: Question marks and exclamation marks are always used upside down at the beginning of a question or exclamation in Spanish. English hello

Spanish hola

Catalan hola

good morning

buenos días

bon dia

good afternoon

buenas tardes

bones tardes

goodnight

buenas noches

bona nit

goodbye

adios

adéu

see you tomorrow

hasta mañana

fins demà

see you later

hasta luego

fins després

yes/no

sí/no

si/no

please

por favor

per favor

thank you

gracias

gràcies

that’s all right

de nada

de res

thank you very much

muchas gracias

moltes gràcies

excuse me

perdón

perdoni

I’m sorry

lo siento

ho sento

I’m English (man)

soy ingles

sóc anglès

I’m English (woman)

soy inglesa

sóc anglesa

I don’t understand

no comprendo

no ho entenc

¿puede repetir, por would you repeat please? favor?

ho pot repetir, per

more slowly, please

más despacio, por favor

mès lent, per favor

what did you say?

¿qué ha dicho usted?

que m’ha dit vostè?

what is that?

¿qué significa ésto?

què vol dir això?

do you speak English?

¿habla inglés?

parla anglès?

I don’t speak Spanish

no hablo español

no parlo espanyol 191

Trekking in Mallorca English

Spanish

Catalan

I don’t speak Catalan

no hablo catalán

no parlo català

there is/are, is/are there

hay

hi ha

is there a bank here?

¿hay un banco aquí?

hi ha un banc d’aquí?

where is…?

¿dónde está…?

a on és…?

…the post office?

¿…la oficina de correos?

l’oficina de

…the toilet?

¿…los servicios?

…el banyo?

men

señores/hombres/ caballeros

homes

women

señoras/mujeres

dones

open/closed

abierto/cerrado

obert/tancat

today/tomorrow

hoy/mañana

avui/demà

next week

la semana próxima

la propera setmana

where can I buy…?

¿dónde puedo comprar…?

a on se pot comprar?

…a newspaper/stamps

un periódico/los sellos

un diari/uns segells

I’d like that

me gusta eso

m’agrada això

I’ll have this

me llevo ésto

m’en duc aixó

how much?

¿cuánto cuesta?

quant val?

do you have a room?

¿tiene una habitación?

té alguna habitació?

double/single

doble/individual

doble/individual

tonight

esta noche

aquesta nit

for two/three nights

para dos/tres noches

per dues/tres nits

how much is the room?

¿cuanto cuesta la habitación?

quan val

with bath/without bath

con baño/sin baño

amb bany/sense bany

anything else?

¿algo más?

qualque cosa més?

nothing more, thank you

nada más, gracias

res més, graciès

the bill, please

la cuenta, por favor

el compte, per favor

packed lunches

los picnics

els picnics

192

Appendix B – Glossary English

Spanish

Catalan

two packed lunches

dos picnics

dos picnics

for tomorrow

para mañana

per demà

by car/on foot

en coche/a pie

en cotxe/apeu

¿cómo se llega a how do you get to Sóller? Sóller?

com es va a Sóller?

where is…?

¿dónde está…?

a on és…?

…the bus station?

la estación de autobuses?

l’estació d’autobusos?

…the bus stop?

¿…la parada de autobús?

…la parada d’autobús?

…for Pollença?

¿…para Pollensa?

…per Pollença?

how much is the fare?

¿cuánto vale el billete?

quan val el bitllet?

return

ida y vuelta

d’anada i tornada

single

solo ida

nomes anada

where is the footpath to…?

¿dónde está el camino a…?

a on és el camí a…?

may we go this way?

podemos pasar por aquí?

podem passer per aquí?

is it far?

¿está lejos?

està lluny?

how far?

¿a qué distancia?

a quina distància?

how long?

¿cuánto tiempo?

a quans minuts?

very near?

¿muy cerca?

molt proper?

to the left/right

a la izquierda/a la derecha

a l’esquerra/a la dreta

straight on

todo recto

tot recte

first left

la primera a la izquierda

la primera a l’esquerra

second right

la segunda a la derecha

la segona a la dreta

in front of the church

en frente de la Iglesia

davant l’església 193

Trekking in Mallorca English

Spanish

Catalan

behind the hotel

detrás del hotel

darrera l’hotel

at the end of the street

al final de la calle

al final del carrer

after the bridge

después del Puente

passat el pont

where are you (singular/ plural) going?

¿adónde va/van?

a on va/van?

I’m going/we’re going to…

voy a/vamos a…

vaig a/anam a…

a right of way

derecho de paso

dret de pas

private hunting

coto privado de caza

àrea privada de caça

please close

cierren, por favor

tancau, per favor

dogs on guard

cuidado con el perro

alerta amb el ca

Monday

lunes

dilluns

Tuesday

martes

dimarts

Wednesday

miércoles

dimecres

Thursday

jueves

dijous

Friday

viernes

divendres

Saturday

sábado

dissabte

Sunday

domingo

diumenge

Help! Fire!

¡Socorro! ¡Fuego!

Ajuda! Foc!

Police

Policía/Guardia Civil

Policía/Guardia Civil

there’s been an accident

ha habido un accidente

hi ha hagut un accident

call a doctor quickly

llamen a medico rápidamente

cridau a metge tot d’una

it’s urgent!

¡es urgente!

és urgent!

drinks

las bebidas

les begudes

breakfast

el desayuno

el berenar

lunch/dinner

la comida/cena

dinar/sopar

Eating and drinking

194

Appendix B – Glossary English

Spanish

Catalan

I’d like/we’d like

quiero/queremos

voldria/voldriem

I’ll have/we’ll have

tomo/tomamos

prendré/prendrem

a black coffee

un café solo

un café sol

two black coffees

dos cafés solos

dos cafés sols

white coffee

un café con leche

un café amb llet

three white coffees

tres cafés con leche

tres cafés amb llet

tea with milk

un té con leche

un tè amb llet

tea with lemon for me

un té con limón para mi

un tè amb llimona

beer

una cerveza

una cervesa

the house wine

el vino de la casa

el vi de la casa

a glass of red wine

un vaso de vino tinto

un tassó de vi negre

white wine

un vino blanco

un vi blanc

a dry sherry

un jeréz seco

un xerès sec

a bottle of water

una botella de agua

una botella d’aigo

fizzy/still

con gas/sin gas

amb gas/sense gas

orange juice

el zumo de naranja

suc de taronja

starters

el primer plato

primer plat

soup

la sopa

sopa

eggs, egg dishes

los huevos

ous

fish, fish dishes

pescado

peix

sea food/shellfish

los mariscos

marisc

meat, meat dishes

la carne

carn

game

la carne de caza

carn de caça

vegetables

los verduras/legumbres verdures/llegums

I’m vegetarian

soy vegetarian

sóc vegetarià

cheese

el queso

formatge

fruit

la fruta

fruita

195

Trekking in Mallorca English

Spanish

Catalan

ice-cream

el helado

gelat

desserts

los postres

postres

sandwich

un bocadillo

panet

Local specialities

Angules small eels fried whole in batter Arròs brut rice soup with meat Bacallà dried codfish with tomatoes in a casserole Butifarra Catalan spiced sausage Calamars squid, served a la romana or deep fried, in rings Caldereta de peix fish soup with rice and slices of bread Capó a lo Rei en Jaume capon, cock or turkey stuffed with marzipan and sweet potatoes and lightly fried Cargols snails cooked in garlic mayonnaise sauce Xocolata calenta (Chocolate a la taza) thick hot chocolate for dipping pastries such as ensaimadas or cocas de patatas Coca de trempó looks like a pizza without cheese Coca de patata light round bun (looks like a potato) for dipping in chocolate Ensaimada a light, flaky, spiral bun sprinkled with icing sugar, often eaten for breakfast or on picnics Escaldums a casserole of chicken and potatoes in an almond sauce Espinagada savoury pie of eels and seasoned vegetables Frit Mallorquí a fry-up of liver, kidneys, onions and garlic Gambes prawns Gazpacho a cold soup made from tomatoes, onions, pep pers, cucumbers, garlic, oil and vinegar Greixonera de peix fish with vegetables and eggs Greixera mixed pressed cold meats with egg artichokes, peas, beans and herbs Guisantes a la catalana peas fried with ham and onions Laccao/Saccao trade names for a hot or cold chocolate drink like cocoa Llangosta a la catalana lobster sautéed in wine and rum with herbs and spices Llenguat sole, usually grilled with fresh herbs 196

Appendix B – Glossary Molls red mullet Musclos a la marinera mussels cooked in a spicy sauce Napolitanas like sausage rolls but filled with chocolate or custard (crema) Pa amb oli bread drizzled with oil, may also be rubbed with tomato and garlic, and may be served with sliced meat Paella cooked to order for a minimum of two people and take at least half an hour, combining rice with various seafoods, meat and vegetables Paella catalana spicy sausage, pork, squid, tomato, chilli pepper and peas Paella marinera fish and seafood only Paella valenciana the traditional dish with chicken, mussels, shrimps, prawns, peas, tomatoes and garlic Panada (Empanada) meat and/or vegetable pie Porcella rostida roast suckling pig (a famous speciality) Sobrassada pork-liver sausage, bright red with pimento Sopes Mallorquines very filling soup, almost a stew, made from gar lic, onions, vegetables in season and bread Trempó a summer salad with mixed vegetables Truita can mean trout or omelette in Mallorquí, hence: Truita a la navarra trout stuffed with bacon or smoked ham Truita de patates (Tortilla española) omelette with potatoes Tumbet a type of ratatouille with layers of aubergines, peppers, tomatoes and potatoes cooked in olive oil Xoriç (chorizo) a strong spicy sausage Zarzuela a stew of various fish in a hot spicy sauce Topographical terms

This glossary is given in Catalan and English only, to assist walkers to unravel placename meanings. The list contains names that occur frequently on maps, as well as throughout this guide. Some words that will be noticed on signs are also included. (Where some Spanish placenames are still lingering, these are shown in brackets.)

197

Trekking in Mallorca Catalan

English

Albufera

lagoon

Aljub

small covered reservoir

Alzina

evergreen oak

Aguila

eagle

Arena

sand

Avenc

deep cleft

Avinguda (Avenida)

avenue

Badia

bay

Baix

low

Bassa

small pool

Barranc

ravine

Bini

house of (Arabic)

Blanca

white

Bosc

woodland

Cala

small bay or cove

Caleta

small bay

Camí

path

Camp

field

Can/Ca’n

house of

Canaleta

open canal

Cap

rocky point

Capella

chapel

Carboner

charcoal burner

Carrer (Calle)

street

Cas/Casa

house

Caseta

small house/hut

Castell

castle

Cavall

horse

198

Appendix B – Glossary Catalan

English

Cingle

cliff

Clot

hollow/depression

Cocó/cocons

very small rock pool/s

Coll

mountain pass

Coma

valley

Comellar

small valley

Comuna

communal land

Corral

animal pen

Costa

coast

Cova/Coves

cave/caves

Des/d’es

of the

Embassament

reservoir

Ermita

hermitage

Es

the

Església

church

Finca

farm or country estate

Font

spring/fountain

Forn de calç

limekiln

Gorg

a pool in a gorge

Gran

big

Illa/Illes

island/s

Jardí

garden

Llarga

long

Lluc

Luke (personal name)

Major

main/big

Mar

sea

Marge

drystone walled buttress

Migdia

midday 199

Trekking in Mallorca Catalan

English

Mirador

viewpoint

Mola

tooth

Moleta

mill

Monestir

monastery

Moro

Moor (Arab)

Morro

snout

Museu

museum

Neu

snow

Palau

palace

Parc

park

Pas

a rocky scramble

Penya/penyal

steep-sided mountain

Pic

peak

Pla

plain/flat land

Plaça (Plaza)

square

Platja (Playa)

beach

Pont

bridge

Port (Puerto)

port or harbour

Porta

door

Porxo

shelter

Puig

hill or mountain

Punta

rocky point

Racó

hidden corner

Rafal

small farm attached to finca

Rei

king

Roca

rock

Roig

red

200

Appendix B – Glossary Catalan

English

Rota

marginal farm

Salt d’aigua

waterfall

Santuari

sanctuary

Sant/Santa

male/female saint

Serra

mountain range

Serreta

a small serra

Sitja/sitges

charcoal-burning site/s

Talaia

watch tower

Torre

tower

Torrent

river

Vall

valley

Vell

old

Vent

wind

Verd

green

Verger

fertile area

Vinyes

vineyard

201

Trekking in Mallorca

APPENDIX C Public transport Transport de les Illes Balears (TIB) is the main transport portal for Mallorca. Bus and train timetables and route maps are available online at www.tib.org. Information can also be obtained on tel 971 177777. Bus timetables are posted at brightly coloured bus stops throughout Mallorca, and train timetables are posted at railway stations. Printed timetables are not always easy to find, so pick up any that are available at the Estació Intermodal in Palma before heading for the remoter parts of Mallorca. While many parts of the GR221 can be reached by bus, some parts can’t, including the refuges of Ses Fontanelles, Muleta and Tossals Verds. Cúber is only served by buses in the summer. Bus transport EMT Bus 1 Airport–Plaça d’Espanya–Port This bus links the airport and ferryport with Plaça d’Espanya in the centre of Palma, which is where the Estació Intermodal is located, for onward bus and rail journeys. Buses are cheap, running fast and frequent from early until late. Bus 102 Palma–Andratx–Port d’Andratx Fleets of buses run frequently, early until late, west of Palma to Port d’Andratx and the start of the GR221. Some services are faster than others. Bus 100 Port d’Andratx–Sant Elm Half-a-dozen buses per day shuttle between Port d’Andratx and Sant Elm. The bus also serves s’Arracó, for the alternative start A. Services are timed to link with bus 102. Bus 111 Palma–Calvià–es Capdellà This fairly frequent bus runs from Palma to Calvià and es Capdellà. It is useful for those who choose one of the alternative starting points, B or C. Bus 140 Palma–Puigpunyent–Galilea This infrequent bus runs west of Palma to Puigpunyent and Galilea. It is useful as it crosses the course of the alternative start C. Weekend services are less frequent. Bus 200 Palma–Esporles–Banyalbufar–Estellencs This fairly frequent bus links three villages on the GR221 – Estellencs, Banyalbufar and Esporles – with Palma. Weekend services are less frequent. 202

Appendix C – Public transport Bus 210 Palma–Valldemossa–Deià–Sóller–Port de Sóller This frequent bus is useful for walkers based in Palma or Sóller, allowing them to commute to and from several villages along the GR221. Bus 211 Palma–Tunel–Sóller–Port de Sóller This is the direct bus service linking Palma and Sóller via a long tunnel. Don’t use it if heading for Deià or Valldemossa, but use bus 210 instead. Bus 220/221 Palma–Bunyola–Orient Bus 221 runs twice each way, each day, between Orient and Bunyola. This is useful for anyone taking the alternative finish E. It is essential to book a seat in advance on this bus. Services link with bus 220, from Bunyola to Palma, which don’t require booking. Bus 320 Alaró–Consell/Alaró This frequent bus is useful for those who take the alternative finish E to Alaró. The bus saves having to add a lengthy road walk to reach the Consell/Alaró railway station. Bus 354 Port de Sóller–Sóller–Cúber–Lluc–Pollença This bus runs twice each way, daily except Sundays, through the summer. Although it links several places along the GR221 it is very popular and seats can’t be guaranteed. Bus 355 Port de Sóller–Sóller–Cúber–Lluc–Pollença This bus runs once each way, daily except Sundays, through the summer. It links Pollença and Lluc, as well as Sa Calobra, so an exit from the alternative finish D is possible, by walking up the road from Cala Tuent to catch it. Bus 330 Palma–Inca–Caimari–Lluc This bus runs infrequently between Lluc and Caimari, then more frequently to Inca. It connects with train services to and from Palma, and bus 340 to Palma and Pollença. Bus 340 Palma– Inca–Pollença Fleets of buses run early until late between Palma and Pollença, although trains are also available between Palma and Inca. Bus 330 can also be caught between Inca and Lluc. Rail transport Ferrocarril de Sóller

The only direct rail access to the GR221 is the vintage train, or Ferrocarril de Sóller, which runs a few times each day between Palma and Sóller. It should be 203

Trekking in Mallorca experienced at least once for the sake of its heritage value and unusual views. Walkers who wish to travel fast and cheaply between Palma and Sóller should use the bus. The Ferrocarril de Sóller links with a vintage tram service that provides a bone-shaking service to the coast at Port de Sóller. For timetables, tel 971 752051 or 971 752028, www.trendesoller.com. Serveis Ferroviaris de Mallorca (SFM)

SFM trains don’t serve any part of the GR221, but there are a couple of useful bus links between the route and the railway. These include bus 330, from Lluc and Caimari to the railway station at Inca, and bus 320 from Alaró to the railway station at Consell/Alaró. Trains run frequently to and from Palma, but there are two levels of service – one that stops at all the stations, and a faster service that misses some of the stations, shown on timetables as sense aturades and/or sin paradas. For timetables, tel 971 177777, www.tib.org.

204

APPENDIX D Accommodation The following list serves to illustrate the extent of available lodgings along the course of the GR221 and its variant routes. Some places have plenty of lodgings, while other places have very little. There is only one campsite along the whole of the GR221, which is at Lluc. Those who wish to ‘wild camp’ should bear in mind that it is illegal, although commonly practised. If choosing this option, keep out of sight and cause no nuisance of any kind. There are ten comfortable refugis, including some administered by the Consell de Mallorca (tel 971 173700, seu.conselldemallorca.net/refugis/en/ ruta/) and others run privately. Hotels range from cheap and simple to expensive and luxurious. Try to avoid places with limited accommodation at weekends. If a bed cannot be secured at any point, then consider moving off-route by bus to a location with more options. It is possible to commute to and from most parts of the GR221 each day from Palma, with careful reference to bus timetables. Port d’Andratx Hotel Brismar Avenida Almirante Riera Alemany tel 971 671600 www.hotelbrismar.com/en

Sant Elm Hotel Aquamarin Carrer Cala es Conills tel 971 081682 www.universalhotels.es

Hotel Villa Italia Camí Sant Carles tel 971 674011 hotelvillaitalia.com-hotel.com

Hostal Dragonera Avinguda Jaume 1 tel 971 239086 www.hostaldragonera.es

Hostal Residència Catalina Vera Carrer de Isaac Peral tel 971 671918 www.hostalcatalinavera.es Aparthotel La Pérgola Avinguda s’Almudaina tel 971 671550 www.hotelpergolamallorca.com Mon Port Hotel & Spa Carrer Cala d’Egos tel 971 238623 www.hotelmonport.com

S’Arracó Hotel L’Escaleta Carrer de Porvenir tel 971 671011 or 609 022803 La Trapa Camping subject to permit www.gobmallorca.com/que-feim/ la-trapa/acampar-a-la-trapa Ses Fontanelles Refugi Ses Fontanelles tel 971 940941 www.ses-fontanelles.es 205

Trekking in Mallorca Sa Coma d’en Vidal Refugi for large groups only tel 971 173700 caminsdepedra.conselldemallorca.cat/ en/refuges Puigpunyent Gran Hotel Son Net Carrer Castillo Son Net tel 971 147000 www.sonnet.es Estellencs Petit Hotel Sa Plana Carrer Eusebio Pascual tel 971 618666 saplana.com Hotel Maristel Carrer Eusebio Pascual tel 971 618550 www.maristelhotel.com

Hotel Ca Mado Paula Carrer Constitució tel 660 474 548 www.hotelcamadopaula.com Hotel Sa Coma Camí des Molí tel 971 618034 Esporles S’Hostal d’Esporles Plaça d’Espanya tel 971 610202 Agroturismo Son Galcerán Pont de Son Galcerán tel 971 611224 www.songalceran.com Refugi Son Trias Carrer Costa de Son Trias tel 971 610002 www.refugisontrias.com

Hotel Nord Plaça des Triquet tel 971 149006 hotelnordmallorca.com

Sa Fita Backpackers Carrer de Joan Riutort tel 619 428436 safitabackpackers.com

Banyalbufar Hotel Sa Baronia Carrer de la Baronia tel 971 618146 www.hbaronia.com

Valldemossa Residencial Suites Valldemossa Carrer Catalina Homar tel 617 695765 residencialsuitesvalldemossa. islasbaleares.website

Hotel Son Borguny Carrer Borguny tel 971 148706 www.sonborguny.com Hotel Mar i Vent Carrer Major tel 971 618000 hotelmarivent.com

206

Hostal Ca’n Mario Carrer Uetam tel 971 612122 Es Petit Hotel de Valldemossa Carrer Uetam tel 971 612479 www.espetithotel-valldemossa.com

Appendix D – Accommodation Hotel Valldemossa Carrer Vell de Valldemossa tel 971 612626 www.valldemossahotel.com Hotel Sa Vall Camí de Son Escanyelles tel 667 777710 www.savallhotel.com Ca’s Papà Carrer de Jovellanos tel 971 612808 www.hotelcaspapa.com Deià Hotel Es Molí tel 971 639000 esmoli.com Hotel La Residència Son Canals tel 971 639011 www.belmond.com Hostal Villaverde Carrer Ramon Llull tel 971 639037 hostalvillaverde.es Pensión Miramar Carrer Ca’n Oliver tel 971 639084 pensionmiramardeia.com Hotel d’es Puig Carrer d’es Puig tel 971 639409 hoteldespuig.com Refugi de Can Boi tel 971 173700 caminsdepedra.conselldemallorca.cat/ en/refuges

Llucalcari Hoposa Hotel Costa d’Or tel 971 639025 www.hoposa.es/hotels/costa-dor Muleta Refugi de Muleta Camí del Far tel 971 634271 caminsdepedra.conselldemallorca.cat/ en/refuges Muleta de Ca S’Hereu tel 971 186018 muletadecashereu.es Port de Sóller (off-route) Citric Hotel Sóller Camí del Far tel 971 631352 citrichotels.com Hotel Los Gerianos Passeig de Sa Platja tel 971 631440 www.hotellosgeranios.com Hotel Marina Passeig de Sa Platja tel 971 631461 www.hotelmarinasoller.com Hotel Minister Passeig de Sa Platja tel 971 700010 www.hotelminister.es Sol Port Sóller Carretera Puerto Sóller tel 971 634052 Hotel Espléndido Carrer es Través tel 971 631850 www.esplendidohotel.com

207

Trekking in Mallorca Hotel Miramar Carrer Marina tel 971 631350 www.miramarsoller.com

Hotel Ca’n Roses Carrer Quadrado tel 971 632299 www.canroses.com/es

Hotel Eden Carrer es Través tel 971 631600 www.hoteleden.com

Hotel L’Avenida Gran Via tel 971 634075 www.avenida-hotel.com

Hotel Eden Nord Carrer de Mestral tel 971 631513 www.hoteleden.com

Ca’n Isabel Carrer Isabel II tel 692 273736 www.canisabel.com

Bikini Island and Mountain Hotel Carrer de Migjorn tel 971 631700 www.bikini-hotels.com

Hotel El Guia Carrer del Castanya tel 971 630227 www.hotelelguia.com

Jumeirah Hotel & Spa Carrer de Bèlgica tel 971 637888 www.jumeirah.com/en/stay/mallorca/ jumeirah-port-soller-hotel-and-spa

Gran Hotel Sóller Carrer Romaguera tel 971 638686 www.granhotelsoller.com

Sóller Garden Hotel Plaç de Reis de Mallorca tel 971 638046 sollergarden.com Hotel Es Port Carrer Antoni Montis tel 971 631650 www.hotelesport.com Sóller Hotel Ca n’Ai Camí de Son Sales tel 971 632494 canai.com Hotel Ca’l Bisbe Carrer de Bisbe Nadal tel 971 631228 www.hotelcalbisbe.com

208

Hostal Residència Nadal Carrer Romaguera tel 971 631180 La Vila Hotel Plaça de sa Constitució tel 971 634641 lavilahotel.com Hotel Ca’n Abril Carrer de Pastor tel 971 579419 www.hotelcanabril.com Hotel Rural Salvia Carrer de la Palma tel 971 634936 www.hotelsalvia.com Hotel Ca’s Curial Camí de Villalonga tel 971 633332 www.cascurial.com

Appendix D  – Accommodation Finca Hotel Can Quatre Camí de la Villalonga tel 971 638006 www.canquatre.com Son Grec Petit Resort Camí de sa Figuera tel 971 631705 www.songrec.com Finca Ca’s Sant Camí de Ses Fontanelles tel 971 630298 cas-sant.com Fornalutx Hotel Apartament Sa Tanqueta de Fornalutx tel 971 638520 sa-tanqueta.com Hotel Can Verdera Carrer dels Toros tel 971 638203 www.canverdera.com Fornalutx Petit Hotel Carrer Alba tel 971 631997 www.fornalutxpetithotel.com Hotel Ca’n Reus Carrer de l’Auba tel 709 458996 www.canreusmallorca.com Bàlitx Agroturismo Bàlitx d’Avall tel 639 718506 Tossals Verds Refugi de Tossals Verds tel 971 182027 caminsdepedra.conselldemallorca.cat/ en/refuges

Solleric Hotel Rural S’Olivaret Carrer Alaró-Orient tel 971 510889 www.solivaret.com/en Alaró Petit Hotel Alaró Carrer de Camp Roig tel 971 518751 www.petithotelalaro.es Hostal Can Tiu Carrer del Petit tel 697 470808 www.hostalcantiumallorca.com Hotel Can Xim Plaça de la Vila tel 971 879117 www.canxim.com Hostalet Ca’n Pep Carrer Metge Jaume Colom tel 971 510591 www.hostaletcanpep.com Castell d’Alaró Hostatgeria del Castell d’Alaró tel 971 940503 www.castellalaro.cat/en/home Orient L’Hermitage Hotel & Spa tel 971 180303 www.hermitage-hotel.com Hotel Dalt Muntanya tel 642 308042 www.dalt-muntanya.com Finca Hotel Son Palou tel 971 148282 www.sonpalou.com

209

Trekking in Mallorca Lluc Campsite Sa Font Cuberta tel 971 517070 www.lluc.net Santuari de Lluc tel 971 871525 www.lluc.net Refugi de Son Amer tel 971 517109 caminsdepedra.conselldemallorca.cat/ en/refuges Vall d’en Marc Agroturismo Vall de Pollença tel 971 103400 Pollença Refugi de Pont Romà Camí Can Gulló tel 971 173700 refugidelpontroma.com Hotel Juma Plaça Major tel 971 535002 www.pollensahotels.com Hotel d’Interior L’Hostal Carrer Mercat tel 971 535002 www.pollensahotels.com Hotel Son Sant Jordi Carrer Sant Jordi tel 971 530389 www.hotelsonsantjordi.com/en Hotel Desbrull Carrer Marquès Desbrull tel 971 535055 www.desbrull.com

210

Puig de María Hostatgeria del Puig de Maria tel 971 184132 Port de Pollença Hotel Eolo Plaça Ingeniero Gabriel Roca 2 Port de Pollença tel 971 866550 www.hoteleolopollensa.com Mar Calma Hotel Carrer Formentor 17 Port de Pollença tel 971 868000 www.marcalmahotel.com Hotel Miramar Passeig Anglada Camarassa 39 Port de Pollença tel 971 866400 hotel-miramar.net Pensión Bellavista Calle Monges 14 Port de Pollença tel 971 864600 www.pensionbellavista.com

APPENDIX E Useful contacts Getting to Mallorca Most visitors fly to Mallorca from airports as far apart as Iceland and Israel, from all over Europe, including over two-dozen British airports. The choice of routes and airlines is bewildering, but there are plenty of budget operators and deals for those willing to search online. It is worth accessing the Palma de Mallorca airport website to discover just how many routes and operators are available. www.aena.es/en/palmade-mallorca.html For ferries to Palma from Barcelona and Valencia, check schedules with Trasmediterranea, www.trasmediterranea.es, and Balearia, www.balearia.com. Consell de Mallorca The Consell de Mallorca administers the whole of Mallorca and their website contains an immense amount of information, but only in Catalan or Spanish – www.conselldemallorca.cat. However, by clicking on the Info Mallorca panel, users are transferred to www.infomallorca.net, where English is available as an option, and a search function can be used. Serra de Tramuntana The Paratge Natural de la Serra de Tramuntana, or Nature Area of the Serra de Tramuntana, covers an area of approximately 625 square kilometres (240 square miles). It is administered from an office in Valldemossa, tel 971 612876, and maintains a visitor centre at Lluc, tel 971 517070. www.serradetramuntana.net GR221 – Ruta de Pedra en Sec Apart from the information provided by the Consell de Mallorca, another useful site about the GR221 is operated by local mountain guide Jaume Tort, who keeps up-todate with the latest developments along the route. Jaume provided plenty of useful information when this guidebook was first prepared, as well as for this new edition. Information is available in four languages. www.gr221.info and www.camins-mallorca. info Maps The maps in this guidebook have been extracted from the immensely popular Editorial Alpina 1:25,000 scale maps of the Serra de Tramuntana. To enjoy full coverage of the mountains and to appreciate where the GR221 is located in a wider context, obtain the Alpina 25 maps of the Serra de Tramuntana Sud, Central and Nord, along with

211

Trekking in Mallorca their Caps del Nord map. All these maps come with a five-language key. For details see www.editorialalpina.com. Tourist information Tourist information websites abound in Mallorca, but many of the private sites are geared to supporting particular commercial ventures. For impartial information, use the ‘official’ tourist information website, which is available in four languages.www. infomallorca.net Tourist information offices can be visited or contacted as follows: Airport tel 971 789566 Ferryport tel 971 707400

Valldemossa tel 971 612019

Palma Plaça de la Reina tel 971 173990

Port de Sóller tel 691 779532

Palma Parc de les Estacions tel 902 102365 Port d’Andratx tel 971 671300 Sant Elm tel 971 239205

Sóller tel 971 638008 Pollença tel 971 535077 Port de Pollença tel 971 865467

Public transport Transport de les Illes Balears (TIB) is the main transport portal for Mallorca. Bus and train timetables are available online, or tel 971 177777. See also Appendix C for details of specific bus and train timetables that can be used to get to and from the GR221. www.tib.org Sundry contacts Bird watching – Grup Ornitològic Balear (GOB) www.gobmallorca.com Black Vulture Conservation Foundation blackvultureconservation.blogspot.com La Granja, near Esporles www.lagranja.net Santuari de Lluc www.lluc.net

212

Appendix E – Useful contacts Emergencies The standard European emergency number 112 can be used to call the police, ambulance, fire service or mountain rescue. If specifically requiring the police, there are three separate forces and three telephone numbers. The Policía Local, tel 092, are attached to local municipalities and wear blue uniforms. The Polícia Nacional, tel 091, are the national force and wear brown uniforms. The Guardia Civil, tel 062, wear green uniforms and are fully equipped to provide mountain rescue cover. If only wishing to report a crime, tel 902 102112. If specifically requiring an ambulance (ambulancia), tel 061. If specifically requiring the fire service (bombers), tel 080.

213

LISTING OF INTERNATIONAL GUIDES INTERNATIONAL CHALLENGES, COLLECTIONS AND ACTIVITIES Canyoning in the Alps Europe’s High Points ALPS CROSS-BORDER ROUTES 100 Hut Walks in the Alps Alpine Ski Mountaineering Vol 1 – Western Alps Vol 2 – Central and Eastern Alps Chamonix to Zermatt The Karnischer Hohenweg The Tour of the Bernina Tour of Monte Rosa Tour of the Matterhorn Trail Running – Chamonix and the Mont Blanc region Trekking in the Alps Trekking in the Silvretta and Ratikon Alps Trekking Munich to Venice Trekking the Tour of Mont Blanc Walking in the Alps AFRICA Walking in the Drakensberg KilimanjaroThe High Atlas Walks and Scrambles in the Moroccan Anti-Atlas PYRENEES AND FRANCE/ SPAIN CROSS-BORDER ROUTES Shorter Treks in the Pyrenees The GR10 Trail The GR11 Trail The Pyrenean Haute Route The Pyrenees Walks and Climbs in the Pyrenees AUSTRIA Innsbruck Mountain Adventures The Adlerweg Trekking in Austria’s Hohe Tauern Trekking in the Stubai Alps Trekking in the Zillertal Alps Walking in Austria Walking in the Salzkammergut: the Austrian Lake District

EASTERN EUROPE The Danube Cycleway Vol 2 The Elbe Cycle Route The High Tatras The Mountains of Romania Walking in Bulgaria’s National Parks Walking in Hungary FRANCE, BELGIUM AND LUXEMBOURG Chamonix Mountain Adventures Cycle Touring in France Cycling London to Paris Cycling the Canal de la Garonne Cycling the Canal du Midi Mont Blanc Walks Mountain Adventures in the Maurienne Short Treks on Corsica The GR20 Corsica The GR5 Trail The GR5 Trail – Benelux and Lorraine The GR5 Trail – Vosges and Jura The Grand Traverse of the Massif Central The Loire Cycle Route The Moselle Cycle Route The River Rhone Cycle Route The Way of St James – Le Puy to the Pyrenees Tour of the Queyras Trekking in the Vanoise Trekking the Cathar Way Trekking the Robert Louis Stevenson Trail Vanoise Ski Touring Via Ferratas of the French Alps Walking in Provence – East Walking in Provence – West Walking in the Ardennes Walking in the Auvergne Walking in the Brianconnais Walking in the Dordogne Walking in the Haute Savoie: North Walking in the Haute Savoie: South Walking on Corsica

GERMANY Hiking and Cycling in the Black Forest The Danube Cycleway Vol 1 The Rhine Cycle Route The Westweg Walking in the Bavarian Alps IRELAND The Wild Atlantic Way and Western Ireland Walking the Wicklow Way ITALY Alta Via 1 – Trekking in the Dolomites Italy’s Sibillini National Park Shorter Walks in the Dolomites Ski Touring and Snowshoeing in the Dolomites The Way of St Francis Trekking in the Apennines Trekking in the Dolomites Trekking the Giants’ Trail: Alta Via 1 through the Italian Pennine Alps Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites Vols 1&2 Walking and Trekking in the Gran Paradiso Walking in Abruzzo Walking in Italy’s Cinque Terre Walking in Italy’s Stelvio National Park Walking in Sicily Walking in the Dolomites Walking in Tuscany Walking in Umbria Walking Lake Como and Maggiore Walking Lake Garda and Iseo Walking on the Amalfi Coast Walking the Via Francigena pilgrim route – Parts 2&3 Walks and Treks in the Maritime Alps MEDITERRANEAN The High Mountains of Crete Trekking in Greece Treks and Climbs in Wadi Rum, Jordan Walking and Trekking in Zagori

Walking and Trekking on Corfu Walking in Cyprus Walking on Malta Walking on the Greek Islands – the Cyclades NEW ZEALAND AND AUSTRALIA Hiking the Overland Track NORTH AMERICA The John Muir Trail The Pacific Crest Trail SOUTH AMERICA Aconcagua and the Southern Andes Hiking and Biking Peru’s Inca Trails Torres del Paine SCANDINAVIA, ICELAND AND GREENLAND Hiking in Norway – South Trekking in Greenland – The Arctic Circle Trail Trekking the Kungsleden Walking and Trekking in Iceland SLOVENIA, CROATIA, MONTENEGRO AND ALBANIA Mountain Biking in Slovenia The Islands of Croatia The Julian Alps of Slovenia The Mountains of Montenegro The Peaks of the Balkans Trail The Slovene Mountain Trail Walking in Slovenia: The Karavanke Walks and Treks in Croatia SPAIN AND PORTUGAL Camino de Santiago: Camino Frances Coastal Walks in Andalucia Cycling the Camino de Santiago Cycling the Ruta Via de la Plata Mountain Walking in Mallorca Mountain Walking in Southern Catalunya Portugal’s Rota Vicentina

Spain’s Sendero Historico: The GR1 The Andalucian Coast to Coast Walk The Camino del Norte and Camino Primitivo The Camino Ingles and Ruta do Mar The Camino Portugues The Mountains of Nerja The Mountains of Ronda and Grazalema The Sierras of Extremadura Trekking in Mallorca Trekking in the Canary Islands Trekking the GR7 in Andalucia Walking and Trekking in the Sierra Nevada Walking in Andalucia Walking in Menorca Walking in Portugal Walking in the Algarve Walking on the Azores Walking in the Cordillera Cantabrica Walking on Gran Canaria Walking on La Gomera and El Hierro Walking on La Palma Walking on Lanzarote and Fuerteventura Walking on Madeira Walking on Tenerife Walking on the Costa Blanca Walking the Camino dos Faros

Trekking in Tajikistan HIMALAYA Annapurna Everest: A Trekker’s Guide Trekking in the Himalaya Trekking in Bhutan Trekking in Ladakh MOUNTAIN LITERATURE 8000 metres A Walk in the Clouds Abode of the Gods Fifty Years of Adventure The Pennine Way – the Path, the People, the Journey Unjustifiable Risk? TECHNIQUES Fastpacking Geocaching in the UK Map and Compass Outdoor Photography Polar Exploration The Mountain Hut Book MINI GUIDES Alpine Flowers Navigation Pocket First Aid and Wilderness Medicine Snow

SWITZERLAND Switzerland’s Jura Crest Trail The Swiss Alpine Pass Route – Via Alpina Route 1 The Swiss Alps Tour of the Jungfrau Region Walking in the Bernese Oberland Walking in the Engadine – Switzerland Walking in the Valais Walking in Zermatt and Saas-Fee JAPAN AND ASIA Hiking and Trekking in the Japan Alps and Mount Fuji Japan’s Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage

For full information on all our guides, books and eBooks, visit our website: www.cicerone.co.uk

Trust Cicerone to guide your next adventure, wherever it may be around the world...

Discover guides for hiking, mountain walking, backpacking, trekking, trail running, cycling and mountain biking, ski touring, climbing and scrambling in Britain, Europe and worldwide. Connect with Cicerone online and find inspiration. • buy books and ebooks • articles, advice and trip reports • podcasts and live events • GPX files and updates • regular newsletter

cicerone.co.uk