The Kingdom of the Yellow Robe; Being Sketches of the Domestic and Religious Rites and Ceremonies of the Siamese; [2 ed.]

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GIFT OF T

.;.A.Setchell

THE KINGDOM OF THE YELLOW ROBE

The Kingdom

of the

Yellow Robe. SOME PRESS OPINIONS. has produced a book which ought more affectous conceptions of a singularly All interesting and very amiable and attractive people. phases of the national life are presented by him with a sufficiency of detail, in alright, telling and graphic way.

Mr.

Young

permanently

to

Birmingham

A

Post.

and well informed description of the of social ideals, which is now in progress in Siam .... this singularly vivid and finely illustrated book. The Standard. picturesque

conflict

This book abounds in curious and interesting informaand the many illustrations by Mr. E. A. Norbury, and from the author's photographs are exceedingly good. The Daily News. tion

This aim has been a popular account of the life and ideas of the people .... The Far East is daily coming nearer to the Western reader, and the present work is one which in our opinion destinctly helps to bridge the gulf between them.

A it

is

Nature.

volume of great value and no valuable.

We to our

less attractive

than

Country Life.

welcome the book as contributing very materially knowledge of a singularly people. Westminster Gazette.

"THE SHRINE IN THE MIDDLE OF THE WATERS"

PAKNAM.

Page jo.

THE KINGDOM OF THE YELLOW ROBE BEING SKETCHES OF THE DOMESTIC AND RELIGIOUS RITES AND CEREMONIES OF THE SIAMESE

BY

ERNEST YOUNG Late of the Education Department, Siam, with Illustrations by E. A. NORBURY, R.C.A., and from Photographs by the Author.

WESTMINSTER

ARCHIBALD CONSTABLE 1900

& Co.

"DS--

O

77

.Vii/iU

SECOND EDITION

Printed at the Motley Press,

18,

Eldon

St.,

E.G.

T O

MY WIFE

465103

PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION. THE following pages are intended to present to the reader an account of the domestic and religious rites and ceremonies of the Siamese. They are the outcome of several years' residence in the Capital of Siam. In order to verify some of my own observations or to amplify some points with regard to which my own knowledge

was rather

scanty,

I

have consulted most of the books which in

recent years have been published concerning the country of Siam. I am particularly indebted to the works of two writers whose know-

ledge was both wide and deep; viz., H. Alabaster, whose "Wheel of the Law" deals with Siamese Buddhism; and Captain Gerini,

whose various monographs on domestic or religious customs are full of valuable and reliable information concerning their misty origin and meaning. I must also acknowledge my indebtedness to "The Siam Repository" (a weekly paper long since extinct, but whose pages are a treasure-house of information to the enquirer), and to my friend Mr. R. L. Morant for much helpful criticism and advice. The illustration Planting cut young Rice" is from a sketch in the fc

possession of Mrs. Smith, of Tarrawatta, Beckenham, lent it for the purpose of illustrating this book.

who

has kindly

The

following five illustrations are also from sketches, kindly lent E. Lloyd Williams, Esq., of James St., Buckingham Gate. by "Offering Rice to the Priests."

"Making Curry." "Ploughing a Rice-field." "Collecting ripe Grain." "Rice Boats coming down the

Menam." E. Y,

Chingford, 1898.

CONTENTS Page

Preface

CHAPTER

I.

STREET SCENES

xi

IN

THE VENICE OF THE

EAST II.

III.

IV.

V. VI.

i

BY KHLONG AND RIVER

25

THE CHILDREN THE SHAVING OF THE TOP-KNOT

44

....

COURTSHIP AND MARRIAGE

85

DOMESTIC LIFE AND CUSTOMS

VII.

64

103 (continued}

125

VIII.

POPULAR AMUSEMENTS

147

IX.

OUTSIDE THE CAPITAL

171

THE CULTIVATION OF RICE LAWS AND LEGISLATION

218

X. XI.

196

CEREMONIES FOR THE DYING AND THE DEAD THE ORDER OF THE YELLOW ROBE. XIV. AMONG THE TEMPLES XII.

XIII.

.

XV. XVI.

(continued}

.

...

RELIGIOUS CEREMONIES

235 251

272 297

316

XVII.

(continued}.

.

.

338

XVIII.

(continued}.

.

.

358

XIX XX.

A

PILGRIMAGE TO PRABAT

THE ELEPHANTS

375

388

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Page

THE SHRINE

A

IN

THE MIDDLE OF THE WATERS.

(Frontispiece?)

SCAVENGER

3

THE CURRY VENDOR

6

THE KEROSINE DEALER THE THREE HEADED GATE.

A

10

(Full page.}

GHARRY

15

23

RICE BOATS COMING DOWN THE

A

vi

MENAM

LIGHTER

27

31

SIAMESE CANOES

33

CHINESE TRADING JUNK

36

"CAN

I

GIVE YOU A LIFT,

REVEREND FATHER?"

40

MOTHER AND CHILD

58

MOUNT KAILASA AS ERECTED FOR THE HAIR CUTTING CEREMONIES OF H.R.H. THE CROWN PRINCE OF SIAM. (Full page.} ...

81

A A

CHINESE MERCHANT SIAMESE

97

.

TEAKWOOD HOUSE.

(Full page.}

106

MAKING CURRY

119

STEAMING RICE

123

A

135

RICKSHAW

LAYING WAGERS ON FIGHTING FISH. (Full page.}

A

WRITER OF LOTTERY TICKETS

151 155

FACES FROM A SIAMESE THEATRE

165

PREPARING RATTAN FOR CHAIR-MAKING

172

FISHING BOATS AT THE BAR

177

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

xv j

Page

KLONG NEAR PETCHABOORREE.

A A

181

(Full page}

BUFFALO CART. (Full page.}

185

SIAMESE BULLOCK CART

189

THE SWINGING

FESTIVAL. (Full page}

197

COLLECTING RIPE GRAIN. (Full page}

199

A

203

SIAMESE RICE PLOUGH. (Full page}

PLANTING OUT YOUNG RICE

FOOT OF KORAT HILLS

....

PLOUGHING A RICE FIELD

208

BUFFALOES RETURNING FROM THE RICE FIELDS. (Full page}

A

ROYAL FUNERAL PROCESSION.

206

.

(Full page}

215 237

THE POOR MAN'S FUNERAL

245

PRIEST AND ATTENDANT

255

OFFERING RICE TO THE PRIEST

264

A

VILLAGE TEMPLE. (Full page}

275

A JUNGLE CLEARING. (Full page} TEMPLE BELL TOWER. (Full page} SALA

IN

WAT

CHANG, BANGKOK. (Full page}

THE SLEEPING BUDDHA. THE FESTIVAL

WAT CHANG

OF

KAW

291

299

(Full page}

.

PRASAI. (Full page}

AT SUNSET. (Full page}

PRABAT HILLS FROM NEAR AYUTHIA.

279

309 319 345

(Full page}

379

THE KINGDOM OF THE YELLOW ROBE. CHAPTER

I.

STREET SCENES IN THE VENICE OF THE EAST. the Venice of the East, was not the Capital

BANGKOK, of

Siam during the

earlier period of that country's history.

Formerly the seat of government was ancient

the

to

now

a

mouldering

people

city

Ayuthia; but the

of ruined

heap

an attraction for

dwellings,

tance

is

capital

at

travellers,

At

themselves.

temples

but of

little

impor-

when

the time

and

this

was the home of the Sovereign, a man

of Chinese origin was sent to govern one of the northern

provinces of the country. as

Phya Tak, and was

When

a

He

man

the invading armies of

is

known

in

Siamese history

of great administrative ability.

Burmah,

in their

triumphant

march through Siam, reached the neighbourhood of the ancient aid as

capital,

him with a

Phya Tak was sent his

counsel and

for

strength.

by the king,

His reputation

and powerful warrior secured

brave

to

for

him

his

appointment as Commander-in-Chief of the Siamese army. Mustering out

to

do

all

the available forces of the kingdom, he set

battle with the

enemy.

It

was hoped that he

THE KINGDOM OF THE YELLOW ROBE.

2

would from

utterly rout the invading army,

powerful enemies. But

its

was not long

sight of the foe, he

in

made by

attack that might be

much his

when

and so

free the land

the valiant

Tak came

in realising that

his small

any

against the

army

greater numbers of the Burmese, could only end in

He promptly

defeat.

utter

fled

and with as many of the

tainers,

with

all

his

own

re-

soldiers as cared to follow

him, to the port of Chantaboon.

Here he leagued him-

men and

chiefs of the neighbour-

self with all the fighting

and

ing provinces,

finally collected

He

thousand men.

supported himself and his soldiers by

robbing and pillaging

The Burmese, much

treasure

Ayuthia land.

in

the villages along the coast.

all

carrying with

and

of gold

them many

silver

1767, at last returned

Then Phya Tak came

where the

an army of about ten

Regent's

home and proceeded Having accomplished

palace

gained

captives,

once more to their own

north again, and on the spot

now

stands,

himself a

built

to found the walled city of this

and

at the sack of

Bangkok.

work, he several times defeated

the Burmese, then re-organised some form of administration

and caused himself to be acknowledged as king of the Associated with him in all his adventures and land.

was

successes adviser. acter,

This

and

it

a

close

man was was

to

personal

friend

and

confidential

of noble birth and vigorous char-

his

counsel

new sovereign owed much of

and assistance that the

his success.

Soon

after the

king had completed his great work of re-organisation he unfortunately

became

insane.

The

priests

brought against

STREET SCENES IN THE VENICE OF THE EAST. him accusations of sacrilege and impiety, and the

to

people

revolt.

He was

3

tried to stir

extremely unpopular on

account of the heavy taxes he had levied on the wealthier classes, as also for the

treated

all

extreme cruelty with which he had

ranks of his subjects.

exhortations

of the

priests,

Stimulated both by the

and by the oppressive

treat-

A SCAVENGER.

ment the

eign

which they were daily subjected, the

to

new

capital at length rose in rebellion.

fled

citizens of

Their sover-

from his angry subjects and took refuge

in a

neighbouring monastery, where he donned the yellow robe

and declared himself a life

to

for

priest.

This declaration saved his

a short time, but soon after his flight he was put

death

by

his

favourite

friend

and general, who then

THE KINGDOM OF THE YELLOW ROBE.

4

followed

of his fellow-noblemen, in assuming the royal robes

tions

and

of his ambition and the sugges-

the promptings

He

crown.

himself Somdetch

called

Pra

Rahcha Pra Putta Yaut Fah, and became the the present

It

dynasty.

with

is

the

fall

first

Boroma king of

of Ayuthia, the

two usurpers, and the founding of Bangkok

rise

of these

that

the authentic history of

A

Siam commences.

period

of about one hundred and forty years comprises the limits within

which the chief

substantiated.

Bishop

of Siamese

facts

a very

to

has

remote period

;

its

from

compiled

Pallegoix,

annals an account of Siam and

history

native

people, extending back

but His Majesty the late King

somewhat lessened one's confidence

these annals

in

and are not

that they are "all full of fable,

by declaring

can be

in satisfaction for believe."

The

city

which was thus founded by Phya Tak, has

ever since remained the chief the seat of government. ing of Oriental towns.

noon, from scorching noon ing,

from sunset

of the sovereign, and

now one

It is

From

home

of the most interest-

the break of

till

until midnight,

the

first

day

till

scorching

cool breeze of even-

and from then on through the

small hours of the morning, the busy streets of Siam's capital present a never ending procession of curious and picturesque scenes. life

the

With the

first

of the city begins.

sonorous

voices

faint

glimmer of

The approach of

vigorously beaten by the

the

light in the east, the

of day

is

heralded with

huge gongs that are being

official

welcomer of the dawn,

a turret within the walls of the Royal Palace.

The

in

cocks,

STREET SCENES IN THE VENICE OF THE EAST. who have crowed some

whole night through with trouble-

the

persistency, greet the rising of the sun in notes both

long and their

shrill,

as

if

they were trying to impress upon

hearers the belief that they have but just awakened

The

from the profoundest of slumbers. his

5

good

surly

The

morning.

croaks

bull-frog

pariah dogs howl or bark

with

an amount of vigour and determination, that shows

that

they too are anxious to contribute their share to the

combination of discordant sounds, that forms a

fitting pre-

lude to the noise and bustle of the coming day. It

is

not to be supposed that the wealthier

members of

As

a matter of

Siamese society fact,

at

rise

have but recently retired to

they

appear again either

all

not

for business or pleasure until the

sun

All

broiling heat

night,

that

officialdom sleeps and

The lower

the business of the State,

classes,

or

morning, while during

early

comes and goes with the rests.

It

is

in the East,

daylight,

an excellent arrangement.

however, are soon awake and

to arise are the Chinese inhabitants.

their

rest,

the pleasures of Society are conducted in the cool

hours of evening, the

and

will

has crossed the meridian.

and

early hour.

this

astir.

First

Here, as everywhere

the subjects of the Celestial

Empire have found

way, and, by their untiring energy and their wonderful

adaptability to

all

changes of custom,

life,

and government,

have managed to establish themselves so securely that any attempt to dislodge them would, the

best

the same

interests

of the

country.

if

successful,

They

live

be

fatal to

and

die in

atmosphere of superstition that surrounded them

THE KINGDOM OF THE YELLOW ROBE.

6

at

their

No

birth.

and enterprise their

daily

faith

in

matter to what country their industry

toil

to

them, they never forget during

lead

may

frequent evidence of their

give

the supernatural.

morning

is

Their

first

keen

act on rising in the

explode a number of noisy fire-crackers

to

evil every doorway, to dispel the crowds of

during the dark hours of the night

spirits,

in

who,

may have congregated

THE CURRY VENDOR.

round the

their

thresholds with

swarms of buzzing

flies

intent

to

do them harm.

and stinging mosquitoes there

are innumerable emissaries of the powers of

smoke

the noise and

So

that the

not without

being of

its

daily its

In

ill,

and these

effectually disperse for a brief interval.

practice

immediate

if

of one superstitious custom

temporary

devout observers.

effect

upon the

is

well-

STREET SCENES IN THE VENICE OF THE EAST. The shops and workshops

are open in front to the street

on account of the intense tropical heat. culty

whatever

There

no

is

diffi-

seeing and hearing every native dealer

in

craftsman as he pursues

or

7

his

The

employment.

daily

foot-lathe of the woodturner, rude but efficient, whirls busily

round, scattering his

razors,

roadway

in

sets

his

;

the barber sharpens

pans and chairs at the edge of the

view of every passer-by, and prepares to shave

a head or trim a

and

chips into the street

its

silver leaf

pig-tail

and the idol-maker spreads

;

upon representations of Buddha made

his

gold

in

wood

or plaster after a strictly orthodox and ancient pattern.

Numerous Buddhist or

in

priests

robes of yellow, saffron

orange, pace slowly along with alms-bowls of

brass, receiving their daily food

lately risen sun,

The

and stand out

more sober

in vivid

itinerant curry-vendor wastes

to

in their

the

relief

no time

in preparing his

soon busy trying to dispose of

is

passers-by.

and picturesque

of the roads and dwellings.

tints

unsavoury messes, and

them

from the believers

or

Their garments borrow new hues from the

ancient faith.

against the

wood

A

pole slung over his shoulder,

bears at one end a small earthenware stove with a supply of charcoal

At

and water.

this

end he cooks, to order,

the various delicacies suspended from the other end of the pole.

The water

or stagnant farthing

in the

pool and

pot is

is

drawn from the nearest canal

almost a meal in

you may purchase a bowl of

in the boiling

provide you

water while you wait. with

a

rice,

itself.

which

is

For a

warmed

Another farthing

number of attendant

will

luxuries in the

THE KINGDOM OF THE YELLOW ROBE.

8

form of very smelling

pepper or very strong and unhealthy

fiery

vinegar.

The

basis of the curry

chicken, stale meat, fermented

may be

frog or

decayed prawn, or one

fish,

of a thousand articles of equally evil taste and pungent odour. Most things are either cooked or re-warmed for the

purchaser by the simple plan of suspending them in a sieve inside

The same pot and

pot of boiling water.

the

same water serve

customers

for all

alike, so that the

the

hun-

dredth hungry individual gets for his farthing, not only

all

that he bargains for, but various tastes of the other delicacies that his

No

counter have elected to buy.

predecessors at the is

charge

made

for the use of the china basin

has not been washed since the

man used

last

it,

which

or for the

loan of the leaden or earthenware spoons, or a couple of chopsticks. Neither the proprietor of this strolling restaurant

nor the force of public opinion demand that these articles

be used, and

for

many,

fingers

the place of either

take

chopsticks or spoons.

"Isa-kee! Isa-kee!" for the first time.

road,

pole.

Isa-kee 1"

He

is

his bare yellow

that

little

boys,

a queer sound when you hear

it

Chinaman comes staggering along the

bawls

The man

loins,

collect

is

carrying two heavy

bamboo

down

A

It

pails

the ends of the usual

at

in long, loud, nasal tones, " Isa-kee

!

wet with the perspiration that streams

body and soaks

forms his only clothing. dressed in even

less

the cloth round his Presently, crowds of

than the noisy vendor,

round him and purchase with avidity the strange-

looking mess denominated "isa-kee."

He

collects the coppers,

STREET SCENES IN THE VENICE OF THE EAST.

9

round

his

and places them

in a small leather purse, tied

with a bit of string, there to

waist

lie

in

company

with a

little

rank, black tobacco, or opium, until time will permit

him

to

them

lose

in

maddening excitement of the

the

is the vendor's reproduction of " the English word ice-cream", though there is little resem-

"Isa-kee"

gambling dens.

blance between the commodity he disposes of with such extraordinary rapidity, and the fashionable European delicacy

whose name

of the

description

sweet

it

It

is

half-frozen slush,

dirty water,

more

truthful

name and

sold in the streets of Bangkok,

article

"ice-mud."

would be

A

has borrowed.

it

apparently a concoction

and sugar.

of

Being cold and

a favourite sweetmeat with the native children,

is

and the ice-cream merchant

may

generally be found doing

a roaring trade outside the different schools during playtime.

When

ice itself

was

residents,

European

first

introduced to the Siamese by the

they promptly coined for

and expressive name of "hard-water." hear fluid,

As

the "

little

Golly

1

It is

it

the short

amusing

to

ones exclaim as they swallow the frozen

How

it

burns!"

as the casual observer can judge, in this capital

far

of Siam there are no Siamese engaged in any hard manual

labour at in

all.

various

kinds of domestic

streets nearly

as

There are of course, many Siamese employed

every workman

many Chinese

They

marry

in

the

or official work, but in the is

Chinese.

There are nearly

country as there are Siamese.

Siamese women,

and

their

children

make

excellent subjects, as they possess both the natural brightness

THE KINGDOM OF THE YELLOW ROBE.

10

of the mother and the industry of the father. Unless they

renounce their own nationality they are subject to a

poll-

tax of about five or six shillings, payable once every four

At

years.

a

made known by proclamation, each

date

Chinaman must present himself pay the

tax.

about the

The

receipt given

size of a

is

at

and

the police-station

a small piece of bee's-wax

This bears a

seal,

wrist for a certain time, fastened

by a

three-penny piece.

THE KEROSTNE DEALER.

and

worn on the

is

piece

of string.

as there as

is

leading

Should the

The

police

are

very busy at this time,

nothing the Siamese policeman so

some unfortunate Chinaman seal

as soon as he

is

be

lost,

the alien

is

to

bound

much

enjoys

pay the tax. to

buy another

requested by some officer of the law.

Carpenters, blacksmiths, butchers, bakers and scavengers are

all

Chinese.

It

is

a Chinaman

who

sits

all

through

STREET SCENES IN THE VENICE of the

heat

the

of strange-looking

bamboo

n

EAST,

pole, displaying

an array

placed in thick glass tumblers

liquids,

float in the blue,

Great lumps of vermicelli

long row.

in a

THE

under a tent made of an old sheet

day,

a central

supported by

OF-

green, red, or yellow liquids, presenting the appearance of

curious anatomical specimens preserved in coloured spirits. It

who hawks about

a Chinaman

is

great pails of slimy,

black jelly having the consistency and colour of blacking,

but said to be extremely palatable with coarse brown sugar.

The men who

are watering the roads with

with long

fitted

bamboo

and mend them

roads,

clerks in the offices

are

No in

subjects of

all

;

;

wooden buckets

spouts; the

men who sweep

the

in the

coolies

wharves

;

the

the

the servants in the hotels and houses

"The Lord

:

of the Vermilion Pencil."

Siamese pulls a rickshaw, though he frequently rides

The Chinese

one.

are the beasts of burden as far as

Bangkok rickshaw is concerned. This vehicle, as seen in Siam is a very sorry-looking object, bearing only a distant resemblance to those met with in every Eastern the

port from find

Colombo

to

Yokohama.

Nowhere do you ever

such dilapidated rickety structures

coolies

pull

through the streets of this

would be a veritable

curiosity.

When

as those that the city.

A

new one

the rickshaws of Singa-

pore and Hong-kong have reached a condition of extreme old

age,

and are so broken down that the authorities

those ports refuse to grant

them

licences

in

any longer, they

sent on to Bangkok, where no licences are required. There the poorer classes use them freely, and there too

are

THK KINGDOM OF THE YELLOW ROBE.

it

are they as often used for the removal of household furniture,

or the transportation of pigs, as they are for the carriage

of passengers. The coolies tear through the of

less

k

be

streets, regard-

anyone's comfort or safety except their

own; though,

said, that they never resent the cut of a driver's

whip when some coachman thus which

reminds diem

the r^i* side of the road.

ts

r%s

forcibly

ate not always allowed the luxury of riding in rick-

They are more

usually transported in

a

far less

Their two front feet are tied together, tncn ^Vs!

v

-

.Vv.

and the pi^ of tne to

tibtts

tfeeir

^rm

ot

tctrt

Joe

*

_,-T

^IHIII*LV ~ v

-C^-1,,^4

uLaLciicru.-

:

-

-:-.

earned by two

is

pofce^

para,

'

**- -,

ui u.vi

tLicir .

.

*^_ J

.

Tne

3uumals generally object

i

by the

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A beneficent Runic.

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ol

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linn

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-I

il.

.

,.,.

,il

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v

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MISMilM

Till',

,

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\vlirn

CHAPTER DOMKSTN

i.

serfdom Hi'

in

social

customs M.I

m

hoi,

an.

M

bonowed fiom a neighbouring

11,-n",

which was the name they

called themselves, signified that fact.

name a

is

of

of

iii-

HI'

i

/Hle-spread one. For

is,

many

years

nobles treated

i

nr

tin: inli.-.Lii.-.ni-.

L''..m.

',,'

When

servants and aliens as slaves.

all

.,11,

iln>

domestic custom was

'.muted amongst the "free" men, ami

hi-

moreover, the

were tributary to Cambodia, whose princes

plains

the foreign yoke was thrown in

It

nation to-day, though the condition of slavery

ih