Spring 2018 This England [Golden Jubilee Edition]

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Golden Jubilee Edition For all who love our green and pleasant land

SPRING 2018 Quarterly £5.25

RICHARD TOZER

The Historic Homes of England Loseley Park, Surrey

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et in extensive parkland near Guildford and home of the More-Molyneux family, the house was built in 1560 although a newer 17th-century wing was later destroyed. The estate was purchased in the reign of Henry Vll by Sir Christopher More but it was his son who furiously began extending it in anticipation of a visit by Elizabeth l. In fact she never appeared until several years later.

Stone was taken from the now ruined Cistercian Abbey at Waverley near Farnham and the fine wood panelling came from the short-lived Nonsuch Palace, a Tudor creation of Henry VIII near Ewell. There is an abundance of carvings by Grinling Gibbons and the fireplace is to a design by Holbein. Ann, a descendant of Sir William, married John Donne the poet who is famous for the phrase “No man is an island”. Her father-in-law had John thrown into prison but later relented of his hasty action. The walled garden is two and a half acres in extent and grows vegetables, roses and flowers, while a mulberry tree is reputed to have been planted by Elizabeth l during her eventual visit. The Loseley dairy herd of cattle is well-known regionally for the Loseley ice-cream brand. The estate is open from the end of April to the end of August on Mondays to Thursdays. For further information telephone 01483 304440 or www.loseleypark.co.uk .

Spring 2018 . . . is a quarterly journal published in Spring, Summer, Autumn and Winter, for all who love our green and pleasant land. Annual subscription rates: (4 quarterly editions, inc. postage and packing): U.K. addresses £21; Overseas addresses £29 (by Airmail) Personal dollar cheques accepted from USA at $39.44 per subscription; Canada $51.91; Australia $51.62; New Zealand $54.81. Next four UK Publication Dates (approx): Summer 2018: 9th May; Autumn 2018: 8th Aug.; Winter 2018: 31st October; Spring 2019: 30th Jan. Editor: Stephen Garnett Deputy Editor: Angeline Wilcox Assistant Editors: Susan Kelleher, Peter Worsley Media: Edmund Whitehouse Production: Ann Augur, Keren Bowers Music Editor: Percy Bickerdyke Recording Engineer: Eric Holmes Advertising: Bryn Piper Editorial Secretaries: Christine Freeman Angie Mulcahy Head of Publishing: Maria Welch SALES/SUBSCRIPTIoNS: This England, Po Box 814, Haywards Heath, Sussex RH16 9LQ. Telephone: FREEPHONE 0800 074 0188 (Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat 9am-5pm)

Overseas +44 1382 575052 E-mail: [email protected] Internet: www.thisengland.co.uk EDIToRIAL: This England, The Lypiatts, Lansdown Road, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire, GL50 2JA. Telephone: UK 01242 225780 Overseas +44 (0) 1242 225780 E-mail: [email protected] Articles and photographs submitted for publication must be accompanied by a stamped addressed envelope for return if unsuitable. Whilst all reasonable care will be taken, the Publishers do not accept responsibility for loss of, or damage to material sent in for consideration. Address all submissions to the Editor at This England’s Editorial Office.

Blossom-time in the orchard at Sissinghurst Castle in Kent. Planned and planted by Vita Sackville-West and Harold Nicolson, the gardens are now owned by the National Trust. DAVID SELLMAN

Page Contents

SPRING 2018

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The Historic Homes of England:

14 10 12 16 18

An English Song The Editor’s Letter A Royal History of England: William III and Mary St. George the Patron Saint...in Pictures English Excursions: A Snapshot of the Victorian

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This England’s Golden Anniversary:

26 30 32 36 38 42

The Cornwall of Thomas Hardy Notes from a Cottage Garden The Merry Month of May Poets’ Corner The Fraternity of St. George The Importance of Happiness:

44 45 48 50 52 54

Source/Contributor

Loseley Park, Surrey

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‘good life’ at Tyntesfield

A Celebratory Album

Richard Tozer Annie Kessler Stephen Garnett Paul James —

Dale Le Vack —

John Husband Rosemary Pettigrew Kitty Pike Susan Kelleher Graham Fife

Noel Coward and the Actors’ Orphanage Post Box: Letters to the Editor Silver Cross of St. George: Eunice McGhie-Belgrave

Elliot James

This England’s New Festival of Britain! Forget-Me-Nots: A Bootlace of Ticket Stubs

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Teachers in Training In England — Now!:

The Oldest Family Business in Britain

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Charles Meredith Jan Clark Angela Conyers John Greeves Amanda Hodges

56 60

The Wonder of Winnie-the-Pooh The English News:

62 65 66

Christian England: High treason and Sacred music to soothe the soul Centenary of the First World War:

Stuart Millson Christopher Hawkins

68 72 76 100

Cornucopia English Books English Diary Present Spring

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Stories and reports from around the country hidden priests

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Memories of ‘Smiler’ Marshall

Miranda Gudenian

Margaret Comer

This England — read by two million patriots all over the World! Printed in England by Webmart Ltd, oX26 4UL Distributed by Marketforce (UK), 2nd Floor, 5 Churchill Place, Canary Wharf, London E14 5HU. EXPoRT DISTRIBUTIoN (excluding AU and NZ) Seymour Distribution Ltd, 2 East Poultry Avenue, London EC1A 9PT Tel: +44(0)20 7429 4000 Fax: +44(0)20 7429 4001 Email: [email protected] Website: www.seymour.co.uk © 2018 This England Publishing Ltd.

This England, ISSN 0040-6171, is published quarterly (Feb., May, Aug., Nov.) by This England Publishing Ltd., Stonecroft, 69 Station Road, Redhill, Surrey, RH1 1EY, UNITED KINGDOM. The US annual subscription price is $41.18. Airfreight and mailing in the USA by agent named Worldnet Shipping Inc., 156-15, 146th Avenue, 2nd Floor, Jamaica, NY 11434, USA. Application to Mail at Periodicals Postage Prices is Paid at Jamaica NY 11431. US Postmaster: Send address changes to This England, Worldnet Shipping Inc., 156-15, 146th Avenue, 2nd Floor, Jamaica, NY 11434, USA. Subscription records are maintained at This England Publishing Ltd., Stonecroft, 69 Station Road, Redhill, Surrey, RH1 1EY, UNITED KINGDOM. Air Business Ltd is acting as our mailing agent. THIS ENGLAND,

Spring, 2018

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An English Song by Annie Kessler

Heather and gorse on the Stiperstones in Shropshire looking towards the Long Mynd. JOHN HAYWARD

You, sweet land of mist and green, Of moors and monarchs and clotted cream, Your heathered country calls my name, And I come back again, again.

You, of farmstead, fell and vale, Cornish coast and Yorkshire Dale, In dreams I hear your English song, To you fair England, I belong.

The spectacular steep-sided limestone gorge of Troller’s Gill near the village of Appletreewick in the Yorkshire Dales. RITA COATES

You, an island drenched in rain, Your hedgerows in an endless chain, Of footpaths on the Cotswold Way, And heaven above in muted grey.

You, a country crowned in the past, What has come before will always last, The legends of yesterday live on your shores, They’re with me dear England, forever I’m yours.

Looking north from Tintagel Castle, the drama of the Cornish coastline is revealed. JOHN HUSBAND

The Editor’s Letter

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lthough I don’t suppose the news stories that hit the headlines in 1968 were, as a whole, substantially worse than those of any other year, I have to say that looking at the events of half a century ago one would be hard put to find 12 months that were more dispiriting or which presented such a bleak outlook. Beginning with the world at large, the United States of America was involved in the Vietnam War, with daily reports of military setbacks against the Communist Viet Cong forces, the loss of life of young GIs, and violent protests at home calling for American withdrawal proving a constant drain on morale. It was also in 1968 that two figures who represented hope for the future in the United States were assassinated: in April the leading civil rights campaigner Martin Luther King, and in June, five years after his brother had suffered the same fate, presidential candidate Senator Robert Kennedy. Elsewhere, at a time when people on both sides of the Iron Curtain lived with the constant possibility of nuclear attack, the temperature of the Cold War suddenly went even chillier as thousands of Soviet troops and tanks invaded Czechoslovakia and ruthlessly froze the so-called “Prague Spring”. Natural disasters included earthquakes in the Philippines and Sicily which, although they resulted in several hundred deaths, were overshadowed by one of the greatest humanitarian tragedies in history: a famine in Biafra, caused by the Nigerian Civil War. Although there were not, mercifully, any tragedies or disasters on such a scale in the United Kingdom in 1968 (where Harold Wilson was in his fourth year as Prime Minister at the head of a Labour Government), a number of events sent out worrying signals for those men and women who were concerned that the traditional values, way of life and civil stability that had always been accepted in our society without question were being undermined in Sixties Britain. Among the developments that might have caused them alarm were: clashes between demonstrators and the police in Londonderry (an event that would be looked back upon as the beginning of “The Troubles”); a warning by Conservative MP Enoch Powell about mass immigration into Britain that became known as his “Rivers of Blood” speech; the introduction of five and ten pence coins in preparation for the decimalisation of our currency; the abolition of theatre censorship and the performance of rock musical Hair in London’s West End; news that an 11-year-old girl from Newcastle upon Tyne had been sentenced to life in detention for the manslaughter of two little boys.

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Such were some of the items that made the news exactly 50 years ago. There were more optimistic and uplifting stories, of course: the “I’m Backing Britain” campaign in support of the country’s businesses, the triumphant return of solo yachtsman Alec Rose from a 354-day round-the-world voyage, Manchester United’s 4-1 defeat of Benfica in the European Cup Final at Wembley which made them the first English football club to lift the trophy…even the debuts on BBC Television of two series that over the next few years became long-running, much-loved favourites — Gardeners’ World with Percy Thrower and Dad’s Army (Arthur Lowe, John Le Mesurier, Clive Dunn etc.). And if anyone wanted further diversion from the stories of doom and gloom, if they looked beyond the rows of daily papers on sale the next time they were in their newsagents, they would see, among the racks displaying magazines, a bright, attractivelooking quarterly publication that made its first appearance on the shelves in the spring of that year. It was called This England and I am delighted that this year, the magazine that was launched with the slogan “As refreshing as a pot of tea” is celebrating its 50th birthday! Half a century later, those news headlines are still shouting about wars, acts of terrorism, crime, disasters and scandals involving people in the public eye, but I hope that This England which, like the world around it has undergone a few changes since 1968, continues to provide an informative, uplifting and wholesome alternative and remains true to the principles and values of its founder and long-time editor. It was several months previously, during a long and boring sermon at his local church in Grimsby, Lincolnshire, that magazine editor and publisher Roy Faiers, a regular worshipper with his wife Dorothy, found himself trying to remember some lines from Shakespeare. As the sunlight filtered weakly through the stained-glass windows, the words he was seeking, from John of Gaunt’s speech in Richard II, gradually rippled into his mind: This royal throne of kings, this sceptred isle, This earth of majesty, this seat of Mars, This other Eden, demi-paradise, This fortress built by Nature for herself Against infection and the hand of war, This happy breed of men, this little world, This precious stone set in the silver sea, Which serves it in the office of a wall, Or as a moat defensive to a house, Against the envy of less happier lands, This blessed plot, this earth, this realm, this England… The final line flashed like a sunburst through the coloured glass, an inspirational moment that he couldn’t wait to share with his close friends and colleagues. So it was, on Monday morning, in their small office above Barclays Bank in Victoria Street, Grimsby — then the world’s leading fishing port — that artist Colin Carr and journalist Peter Chapman learned of Roy Faiers’ ambitious plan to launch This England. The aim of the magazine would be, in Roy’s own words: “To raise the proud banner of England aloft and rekindle the tradional principles of English goodness, decency and common sense in this uncertain world.”

Although during the previous few years on board the iconic Flying Scotsman. Articles Roy Faiers had successfully established six about bygone modes of transport, particularly county magazines celebrating the history, steam trains, have always proved popular on culture, customs and people of Lincolnshire, the pages of the magazine so it was appropriate Devon, Norfolk, Suffolk, Somerset and the that the journey on the greatest locomotive Cotswolds, the prospect of applying the of them all should have proved such a great same template to a national publication was success, with a large number of anglophiles certainly challenging. However, as Peter climbing aboard to join the This England Chapman later wrote, “Roy Faiers’ dreams adventure as new subscribers. The boost in quickly become reality”, and after a lot of sales, bolstered by some top-notch contributors hard work the team were able to celebrate that included historian Sir Arthur Bryant, the arrival of their “baby” — cover price novelist R. F. Delderfield and country poet six shillings, with, in a dark-green frame, a J. H. B. Peel meant that relocation to a more colour photograph of the village church at central position in England soon became The magazine’s founder: Roy Faiers. Burrington in Somerset flying the Cross of possible: to Chipping Norton in Oxfordshire in St. George. They toasted the publication of 1970 and two years later to Cheltenham on the the first edition not with champagne but with the much more edge of the Cotswolds where we remain today. English tea and cakes! I joined This England in 1982, by which time a number of In that first edition, Roy Faiers, a former newspaper reporter regular features that would become familiar favourites had for the local evening paper and a freelance journalist for the been established: “Minor Masterpieces of English Art”, “From national press, radio and television who had launched his first an English Country Garden”, “Cathedral ‘Towns’ of England”, magazine, Lincolnshire Life, in 1961, set out his “manifesto” “Characters from the Classics” (by Ronald Embleton), “English for This England in more detail: “We shall not be slick or County Regiments”, “English Heroes”, “Cornucopia”, “This sensational. There will be no world scoop articles, no glamour Earth” and, of course, on the back cover which she made her pictures, no fierce controversies. Instead we set out deliberately own for many years, Patience Strong’s poem. I remember to produce a wholesome, straightforward and gentle magazine with pride writing articles for, and taking part in, the various that loves its own dear land, and the people who have sprung campaigns: “Don’t Let Europe Rule Britannia”, “Save Our from its soil. Instead of politics we shall bring you the poetry Shires”, support for the so-called “Metric Martyrs” etc. of the English countryside in words and pictures. Instead of More recently we have promoted the idea of an English bigotry we shall portray the beauty of our towns and villages. national anthem for purely English occasions, encouraged Instead of prejudice there will be pride in the ancient traditions, the countrywide celebration of St. George’s Day, petitioned the surviving crafts, the legends, the life, the splendour and (successfully) for a knighthood for Ken Dodd and are currently peace of this England.” gathering support for a new Festival of Britain Articles in the Spring 1968 issue to coincide with the United Kingdom leaving the included “Sunset of the Mills”, “In Search European Union. of Sundials”, “A Page from Pickwick”, Sadly, Roy Faiers passed away in 2016 but all of “Where have all the eccentrics gone?”, us at This England are committed to continuing his “The Follies of England”, a celebration legacy and are excited at the prospect of embarking of “Afternoon Tea”, a “County Cameo” on the next 50 years. I hope that you will continue to (Northumberland), the story of Percy enjoy This England, to contribute to its pages with Shaw the man who invented cat’s eyes and comments and suggestions and to spread the word the first in a series about English market about the magazine to your friends and relatives: towns (Cirencester). The magazine also even after 50 years there are still proud Englishmen opened with the now-familiar illustrated introductory and women at home and abroad who do not know of poem (those lines from Shakespeare, of course) and featured its existence! We have many features planned for the future, many examples of Colin Carr’s artwork which, during the halfbeginning in this issue when we are launching a series entitled century that followed, became greatly loved by our readers. “English News” (combined with “English Humour”) which Letters praising the magazine poured in, with a number will take the place of the long-running “Nelson’s Column” and of famous people adding their support. These included allow us to highlight, for a change, a few light-hearted, optimistic encouraging comments from actresses Dame Sybil Thorndike and uplifting stories from around England. I hope that you like and Dame Anna Neagle, Sir Charles Tennyson the grandson it and find it a refreshing addition to the magazine. As part of of the Victorian poet, and Prime Minister Harold Wilson. One our celebrations we have produced a special 50th anniversary observer who wasn’t so impressed was “Atticus” of the Sunday publication (see page 29) and published some memories and Times, saying that This England was “devoted to patriotic selfobservations from long-time contributors and loyal readers indulgence” and asking the question: “Is there really a market (see page 22). for the good old days?” All that remains is for me to thank you all for your A key event in securing the survival of This England took support and to set off on the next stage of our place during the autumn of 1969 when Roy Faiers and his team adventure. It promises to be an exciting journey, so embarked on a sales tour across the United States of America please come with us! THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

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William III and Mary II

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(1689–1702)

he “Glorious Revolution” that led to the deposition of King James II, saw the Catholic monarch flee to France in December 1688 leaving the throne of England vacant. His successor was his eldest daughter, Mary, who had married Prince William III of Orange. At the instigation of the Bishop of London and several government ministers, the Dutch Prince William was invited to England to try and give the country stability and restore the Protestant faith, although Parliament never actually intended to give him the crown. A month before James II’s departure, Prince William of Orange landed at Brixham harbour, Torbay, on 5th November 1688 with an army of some 13,000 men, declaring “The Liberties of England and the Protestant religion I will maintain.” He was soon joined by English soldiers and sailors who had deserted James II. Although James tried initially to fight for his throne, support for him dwindled in all areas, even within his own family, and the deserted King fled the country a month later. Parliament initially saw William’s role as that of Regent, but he did not want a Regency and insisted on being King. He told a “Convention Parliament” at the beginning of 1689, “I have not come to establish a Republic or be a Duke of Venice,” adding that neither would he be his “wife’s gentleman usher”. Equally Mary, the rightful heir, was not content with reigning on her own or simply being a consort, declaring that she did not want “a divided interest” coming between husband and wife. Parliament reluctantly accepted them as a couple, to rule jointly as King and Queen. William and Mary officially acceded to the throne on 13th February 1689 and were crowned King William III

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and Queen Mary II two months later at Westminster Abbey by the Bishop of London. The then Archbishop of Canterbury, William Sancroft, was a Jacobite, supporting James II and refused to recognise William and Mary as sovereigns. Subsequent Jacobite schemes to restore James II to the throne failed, including the Battle of the Boyne in Ireland in 1690. Over the centuries there had been countless struggles between the monarch and Parliament, but this ended with the reign of William and Mary, as they were considered to be Constitutional Monarchs — chosen to rule by Parliament rather than as heirs under the Divine Right of Kings. In December 1689 a new Bill of Rights was passed, said to be one of the most significant documents in England’s constitutional history. It decreed that no Catholic could be King or Queen of England. This was to prevent another

James II situation, where a Protestant monarch had converted to Catholicism after being crowned. The new monarchs had their powers somewhat curtailed by the Bill and could not, for example, use the royal prerogative to suspend laws, increase taxes or raise an army without Parliament’s approval. Parliament now had the upper hand. The Bill of Rights also established the royal line of succession, with Queen Mary’s sister, Princess Anne, being named as the next in line to the throne after any children that William and Mary might have. A later Civil List Act gave Parliament control over royal expenditure and granted William and Mary £700,000 a year for their official duties and the running of the royal household. This figure remained unchanged until the reign of George III. Within a few months of being crowned, William and Mary bought a property in the Kensington area of London called Nottingham House. The Surveyor of the King’s Works, Sir Christopher Wren, enlarged the house, building three-storey extensions at each corner of the original building, an entrance archway and clock tower. William and Mary’s court took up residence in time for Christmas 1689 and their new home was renamed Kensington Palace. Within the grounds is a small property, still known as Nottingham Cottage. In this century it was briefly the home of the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge before they moved into the palace, and more recently Prince Harry. Although Dutch-born, William was a nephew and son-in-law of James II, and a grandson of Charles I, so had some Stuart blood in his veins. He was born at

Portraits of William III by Sir Godfrey Kneller and Mary II by Sir Peter Lely.

Kensington Palace.

ADINA TOVY

the Binnenhof Palace in The Hague on 4th November 1650, the posthumous son of William II of Orange (who had died just eight days earlier) and his wife Mary the Princess Royal, eldest daughter of Charles I and sister of Charles II and James II. William had no siblings. He was baptised Willem Hendrik and from birth was William III, Prince of Orange, and Stadtholder of Holland, although not allowed to use the title until adulthood. Stadtholder was “leader” or the “first noble”, and throughout his childhood and youth the Dutch people lived through what is known as The Stadtholderless Period. The young Prince William was given an English honour in April 1653, being made a Knight of the Garter. With his father having died, William’s guardians became his mother, paternal grandmother and an uncle, although he saw very little of his mother, who appeared to have no real interest in him. He was educated by a succession of governesses and a male tutor, and received religious instruction from a Calvinist minister. He began a more formal education from the age of nine at the University of Leiden, founded in 1575 and now the oldest university in the Netherlands. He studied there until he was 16 and learned to speak French, German, Latin and Spanish. It was never kept from him that he would one day be head of the House of Orange, an aristocratic dynasty that had long played a central role in politics and government of the Netherlands. By the time William was 16, his mother had died and he was made a “Child of the State”. It is said that all pro-English supporters were removed from the royal court and William’s focus was very much on Dutch affairs. As his 18th birthday approached, champions of the House of Orange pressed for him to become legally Stadtholder and Captain-General. In a somewhat complicated system, the Netherlands was then broken into seven provinces, known as the Dutch Republic, with Holland being

“Prince of Orange Landing at Torbay” — an engraving by William Miller.

the wealthiest and most powerful province. Stadtholders governed the country together with the States General (consisting of a Senate and a House of Representatives). William was appointed First Noble of Zeeland, one of the seven provinces, although Holland then abolished the position of Stadtholder altogether. William wrote unsuccessfully to his uncle, King Charles II, asking him to make him Stadtholder in return for an alliance with England. In 1672 the Netherlands was invaded by France, along with its allies. This caused panic within the country and in July that year Holland relented and made William Stadtholder. As the war went on into a second year, William increased his power as a military leader and became Stadtholder of more provinces. Throughout his adult life William saw King Louis XIV of France as his staunch enemy. In 1674 he was encouraged by his uncle King Charles II of England to marry Mary, elder daughter of his brother James, Duke of York. It was felt that marriage would unite William and the Dutch with England and make them stronger in their fight against France. But William was unenthusiastic. “I cannot leave the battlefield,” he said, “nor believe it would be agreeable for a lady to be where the battlefield is.” He prevaricated for three more years before finally agreeing to marry his cousin Mary. Mary had been born at St. James’s Palace on 30th April 1662, the eldest daughter and heir of James, Duke of York (James II) and his first wife Anne Hyde. The Duke was disappointed that she was not a boy. Although her parents converted to Catholicism, Mary was raised as a Protestant and remained so

throughout her life. She was eventually disowned by her father when she accepted the English crown that he had abandoned. Her childhood was spent largely at Richmond Palace, the home of her grandfather, where she was brought up with her sister, Anne, under a governess called Lady Frances Villiers. The girls rarely saw their parents. Mary had a succession of tutors and proved to be particularly good at drawing and dancing. She also studied music, French, and religious education. By the time she was 15, Mary found herself engaged to Prince William of Orange. The couple married on William’s birthday, 4th November 1677, at St. James’s Palace in London. It was a joyless marriage, with only stillborn children, although Mary grew to love her husband, once writing in a letter to him that it was “a passion that cannot end but with my life”. Unlike many of his predecessors, William is only known to have had one mistress during his marriage: Elizabeth Villiers, later Countess of Orkney, one of the Queen’s ladies-in-waiting and a daughter of Mary’s former governess, Lady Frances Villiers. William and Mary spent the first decade of their married life in Holland and a great deal of time apart. When they moved to England to reign, William was invariably involved in peace negotiations and put his work before his wife, while Mary spent a lot of time at St. James’s Palace nursing her sick sister, Anne. Mary had a strong faith and it is said that she lived as if she were a nun. She had her dining room turned into a chapel because her husband never ate with her. Short in stature, but F THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

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‘A ROYAL HISTORY OF ENGLAND’ (continued)

The magnificent Painted Hall at the Royal Hospital for Seamen in Greenwich.

buxom, Mary was known for her warm heart and bright smiles. Being English born, she was always more popular than her husband, although William did absolutely nothing to court popularity once he was King of England. William was also short in height, some 4½ inches less than his wife, and thin. He had contracted smallpox as a child, which had left him asthmatic and with a deep cough throughout his life, exacerbated by the London fog. Described as taciturn, William had a cold manner, few friends and certainly no English ones. It is said that he never loved the English and they never loved him. His greatest passion was hunting, as on horseback he was alone and did not need to speak to anyone. Gilbert Burnet, Bishop of Salisbury, in his History of My Own Time, has left us with a first-hand portrait of William’s character, writing that he was, “much neglected in his education; for all his life long he hated constraint. He spoke little. He put on some appearance of application, but he hated business of all sorts. Yet, he hated talking, and all house games, more. This put him on a perpetual course of hunting, to which he seemed to give himself up, beyond any man I ever knew: but I looked on that

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as a flying from company and business. He had a way that was affable and obliging to the Dutch. But he could not bring himself to comply enough with the temper of the English, his coldness and slowness being very contrary to the genius of the nation.” Thomas Macaulay in his History of England reveals more of the King’s manner, writing, “He was in truth far better qualified to save a nation than adorn a court. He seldom came forth out of his closet, and when he appeared in the public rooms, he stood among the crowd of courtiers and ladies, stern and abstracted, making no jest, and smiling at none. His freezing look, his silence, the dry and concise answers which he uttered when he could keep silence no longer, disgusted noblemen and gentlemen who had been accustomed to being slapped on the back by their royal masters. He spoke our language, but not well. His accent was foreign; his diction was inelegant, and his vocabulary seems to have been no larger than was necessary for the transaction of business.” One of the reasons that William was not particularly liked by the English people during his reign was because it quickly became clear that he primarily

considered himself to be Dutch. Through England he was able to save Holland from the grasp of Louis XIV of France, and that was where his main interest in the country lay. Within months of becoming joint sovereigns of England, William and Mary were also offered the crown of Scotland. There were many Jacobite uprisings to try and prevent this, including the Battles of Killiecrankie and Dunkeld, and the Massacre of Glencoe, which made William unpopular in Scotland as well as England. He had an equally tough fight in Ireland, which was then predominantly Catholic and very antiEngland. But he did eventually become William I of Ireland, William II of Scotland, William III of England and William IV of Normandy. England became involved in seven wars during their reign, which kept William out of the country for long periods, with Mary at the helm during his absence. Although she had more right to the throne than her husband, as the daughter of a King, she did not enjoy these periods of solo rule. The wars with France were very costly, which put a financial strain on England’s coffers. Louis XIV wanted

to extend his territory, which meant seizing the Spanish Netherlands and neighbouring Holland. Consequently, William joined forces with Spain and Austria against the French. In 1697 the Treaty of Ryswick was signed, finally bringing peace to the Netherlands, and Louis XIV was forced to recognise William as King of England. Although William appeared cold and remote, he did have some positive achievements and is credited with establishing the Bank of England, to which he gave a Royal Charter, and a style of banking that we would still recognise today with credits and loans. He also set up the National Debt to help ease England’s financial situation and help pay for future conflicts. The East India Company, set up in Elizabeth I’s reign, was also further developed: a company that was responsible for 50 per cent of the world’s trade at its height, employing 25 per cent of the country’s population. In 1698 it officially became the English Company trading to the East Indies and was soon in a position to loan the Treasury over £3,000,000. The Bank of England. ADINA TOVY

Being Dutch, William was able to attract his fellow countrymen to England and many Dutchmen worked in East Anglia, digging ditches to drain the fens so that the land became suitable for agriculture. There was also a Dutch influence on architecture and furniture. Houses built during the reign have a distinct Flemish look and there is a definite “William and Mary” style of furniture, with elaborately turned legs, heavily lacquered and painted finishes, marquetry inlays, with dark walnut being a popular wood. Chairs became more comfortable with upholstery and shaped backs to fit the human frame. China cabinets were introduced, reflecting Mary’s love of displaying Delft china and oriental porcelain. Blue and white china started to become a feature in people’s homes. Tallboys and lowboys also became practical pieces of furniture.

During their reign Hampton Court Palace was extended, replacing half of Henry VIII’s Tudor rooms and private apartments with new wings, and William commissioned a new Hospital for Seamen at Greenwich, designed by Sir Christopher Wren. In 1700 King Charles II of Spain died. Being childless, he had named Louis XIV’s grandson as his successor. This would inevitably form a strong French and Spanish alliance. There were concerns as to who would now rule this vast empire, which included territories in Spain, the Netherlands, the Americas and parts of Italy. With Louis XIV of France and the Holy Roman Emperor, Leopold I, being the late King’s close relatives, William intervened to prevent either becoming a super-power that could dominate Europe. This led to a conflict known as The War of Spanish Succession, with the English army under the command of John Churchill, Duke of Marlborough. William died before being able to take an active part. Within months James II, the former King of England died. Louis XIV saw this as the perfect opportunity to remove William from the throne. He pushed to have James II’s last child, James Frances Edward Stuart, recognised as King James III of England. Nicknamed “The Old Pretender”, many believed that he was not truly the son of James II and had been smuggled into the bedchamber as a baby in a warming pan. The last act of William’s reign was an Act of Settlement so that the line of succession did not revert to “The Old Pretender”. As William and Mary were childless and so had no immediate heirs, and the next in line, Mary’s sister Anne, had no surviving children either, it was agreed that the Electress Sophia of Hanover, a Protestant granddaughter of James I, and her heirs would inherit the throne of England. Mary died from haemorrhagic smallpox on 28th December 1694 at Kensington Palace, aged just 32, and was laid to rest in Westminster Abbey amid great public sorrow. Funeral music was composed specially by Henry Purcell. William had slept on a camp bed in Mary’s room during her final days and was grief-stricken at her death. He wrote to Gilbert Burnet, Bishop of Salisbury, “During the course of our marriage I have never known one single fault with

The statue of William in Brixham. JOHN HUSBAND

her.” Knowing that she was dying, Mary kept people away from her for fear that they might also catch smallpox. She wrote a letter to William, to be opened only after her death. In it she begged him to give up his mistress, Elizabeth Villiers. He did as she had wished and for the rest of his life he wore a black ribbon on his left arm containing a lock of Mary’s hair and her wedding ring. William reigned alone after her death but spent half the year abroad. He died on 8th March 1702, aged 52, after his horse Sorrel slipped on a molehill while he was out riding near Hampton Court. The King broke his collar bone, which was badly reset. He went into a decline and died of pneumonia at Kensington Palace. There was no great public show of mourning, other than from his Jacobite enemies who made a toast to the mole that had inadvertently killed the King, raising their glasses “to the little gentleman in black velvet”. William was buried in Westminster Abbey next to Mary. In a touching tribute to the late King, author Daniel Defoe revealed that “Dutch Billy” never came to terms with the fact that he was not fully welcomed by the English people, writing that it, “absolutely broke his heart; for which reason I think him as much murdered as his predecessor was, whose head was cut off by his subjects.” Defoe defended the King in a satirical poem, which he called “The True-Born Englishman”. Had William known of these sentiments during his lifetime, he might finally have felt accepted. PAUL JAMES

THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

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Saint George the Patron Saint… in Pictures

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A portrait of St. George by German artist Hans von Kulmbach (1480-1522).

lthough a lot of English people might not know (despite the best efforts of this magazine over the years!) the full story of Saint George — that he was an actual historical figure who was born in present-day Turkey in around 280AD — even those with only the sketchiest knowledge will be aware that he is England’s patron saint whose feast day falls on 23rd April. In fact, so widely revered did George of Cappadocia become following his martyrdom on the orders of Roman Emperor Diocletian, that churches dedicated to him and paying tribute to his chivalry and sacrifice soon appeared in countries around the world. Today, as well as England, Saint George is recognised as the patron saint of numerous other countries, regions and cities, including Georgia, Portugal, Malta, Romania, Aragon, Catalonia and Genoa. Similarly, over the centuries, Saint George (often depicted slaying the legendary dragon) has been portrayed in mosaics, frescos, wood carvings, statues, stained glass and countless paintings by artists of all nationalities and styles. Although limited space means that only a relatively small number of these works can be reproduced here, we hope that, as you think about St. George’s Day and plan your own celebrations, they will stir afresh your admiration for such an inspirational figure, and confirm your love — if such confirmation were needed! — for the greatest country in the world of which he is patron and protector — the country called England!

The first image in England of St. George slaying the dragon is on a 12th-century monument at St. Peter’s Church, Conisbrough in Yorkshire.

Stained-glass windows depicting St. George in various ways can be found in cathedrals and churches across the length and breadth of England. This magnificent example, dating from 1883, is in St. George’s Hall opposite Lime Street station in Liverpool.

Housed in the Museo del Prado in Madrid, “Saint George and the Dragon” (oil on canvas), one of the most dramatic depictions of the legend, was painted by Flemish artist Peter Paul Rubens (1577-1640) during a visit to Genoa in 1606.

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St. George has been depicted on religious icons in Russia for hundreds of years. This example dates from the 14th century.

“The Triumph of St. George” (tempera on canvas) was the second in a series of three paintings by Italian Renaissance artist Vittore Carpaccio (1465-1525): the others were “St. George and the Dragon” and “Baptism of the Selenites”. The painting is exhibited in the School of San Giorgio degli Schiavoni, Venice.

A view of the soldier-saint far away from slaying dragons and rescuing princesses was portrayed by Italian artist Paolo Veronese in his “Martyrdom of Saint George” (1564). In 2014 the painting, which measures more than 12 feet in height, was part of an exhibition of the artist’s work, “Veronese, Magnificence in Renaissance Venice”, at the National Gallery in London.

Paulo Uccello (1397-1475) was an Italian painter and mathematician who pioneered the use of perspective in art. His oil painting, which dates from 1470, shows St. George stabbing the dragon with his lance while the princess has attached a leash to the beast. The eye of the storm lining up with Saint George’s lance suggests that divine intervention has helped him to victory. The painting is on display at the National Gallery in London (www.nationalgallery.org.uk). Now under the care of English Heritage, Farleigh Hungerford Castle in Somerset dates from the 15th century, as does St. Leonard’s Chapel which stands beside the spectacular ruins. Sir Walter Hungerford (1378-1449), a veteran of Agincourt, was a member of the Order of the Garter which had close associations with St. George, and it was he who decorated the chapel with scenes depicting the Christian warrior.

The carving above the door of St. George’s Church at Fordington in Dorset is thought to be the oldest image of St. George in England. Dating from 1100, it depicts St. George, not slaying a dragon, but doing battle with an army.

One of 67 illustrations in a 15th-century manuscript entitled the De Grey Hours, now housed in the National Library of Wales in Aberystwyth (www.llgc.org.uk), which is thought to have belonged to Sir John Grey (1387-1439) and his family of Blisworth in Northamptonshire. One of the most famous paintings of England’s patron saint is “The Wedding of St. George and Princess Sabra” by Dante Gabriel Rossetti (1828-1882). Jane Burden, later to become Mrs. William Morris, was the model for Princess Sabra. The watercolour, part of the Tate collection (www. tate.org.uk) in London, was completed in 1857 and one of a number of paintings of the saint by the great Pre-Raphaelite.

A medieval wall painting of St. George slaying the dragon is among several to be seen, including images of St. Christopher and the martyrdom of St. Edmund, in St. Mary’s Church at Troston in Suffolk.

The Commonwealth Chapel in St. Lawrence Jewry, Guildhall Yard, London EC2V 5AA, is where this St. George Window by stained-glass designer Christopher Rahere Webb (1886-1966) is located. The first church on the site was destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666, but rebuilt by Christopher Wren some 10 years later. It suffered extensive damage during the Blitz in 1940 but was again rebuilt — to Wren’s design — by architect Cecil Brown in 1957. It is the official church of the Lord Mayor of London.

THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

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ENGLISH EXCURSIONS

PETER FRY

A snapshot of the Victorian ‘good life’ at Tyntesfield

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leading National Trust venue providing the general public with an accurate snapshot of life enjoyed by the landed gentry in Victorian England has plans to increase its visitor numbers to 375,000 a year. Acquired in 2002, and with a quarter of a million visitors currently, Tyntesfield is a relatively new site within the Trust’s portfolio. It’s a Grade I listed Victorian Gothic Revival Mansion near Wraxall, in North Somerset, on an easyto-reach location 10 minutes off the M5. The mansion and chapel next to it were built and owned by the Gibbs

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family who provided proof of the adage “where there’s muck there’s money”. William Gibbs (pictured with his family in the 1860s) was the wealthiest commoner in Victorian England. He created the family fortune by importing guano from Peru. The dried bird droppings were a potent fertiliser and revolutionised Victorian agriculture. Four generations lived at Tyntesfield and they became the Lords Wraxall. By the start of the millennium, however, the house and gardens were in a serious state of disrepair and the park and estate were rundown. A campaign to save it was launched in April 2002. Just 50 days later £24

million had been raised, with a grant of £17.4 million from the National Heritage Memorial Fund, as well as over £8 million in public donations. Hundreds of people have since been involved in restoring Tyntesfield. Starting out with 30 volunteers, by 2013 the employed and volunteer staff was over 600, more than at any other National Trust property. Lisa Topham, Tyntesfield’s Gardens and Countryside Manager, says: “At the start a lot of the focus went on the house because it had the largest collection of objects within the National Trust and much of the fabric of the building, including the chapel, was in poor condition.

The Grand Staircase, Library, Butler’s Pantry, bell pulls and (right) Chapel.

“So the Trust concentrated on key conservation work: securing walls, replacing doors, fixing the roof, doing vital electrical and plumbing work. That’s been completed and we’re starting now to look at the story and the spirit of the property. “Tyntesfield is the quintessential Victorian home so it has an important place in history and visitors enjoy a fascinating journey back to the 19th century. There are numerous visitor facilities at Home Farm. The animal stalls and milking parlour are a restaurant and shop and there’s a learning centre for schoolchildren in the old saw mill.” A target was set to reduce dependency on fossil fuels by 50 per cent by 2020 using new energy conservation and production technologies. Stateof-the-art insulation was fitted to the roofs of the house and Home Farm buildings. Further innovations involved

CHRISTOPHER NICHOLSON

fitting biomass boilers and photovoltaic systems to produce heat. It’s now a well-tended estate of 548 acres set amid undulating Somerset countryside, woodland and wild flower meadows, to which the public has access. A 2011 survey recorded 779 different kinds of plants and animal species. Relatively unchanged since 1900, the gardens at Tyntesfield range from large open lawns to formal terraces, on to smaller spaces such as the Rose Garden. This contains a variety of plants grown inside box-edged beds. The Kitchen Garden comprises a walled vegetable garden, with an array of home-grown fruit and vegetables, and three glasshouses which are particularly interesting because of their metal construction. A range of working buildings survive intact and are still used for their original purpose — a potting shed, toolshed and apple store.

Recently restored, the classical Orangery forms the backdrop to the Cut Flower Garden where flowers are used for arrangements in the house. Ten ornamental flower beds, mostly around the house, provide formal displays of spring bulbs and bedding plants during the summer. Over 10,000 plants fill the beds in summer creating a dramatic colourful contrast to the Victorian Gothic house above. Paul Evans, the Head Gardener, THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

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The gardens and greenhouses, including (top) the restored Orangery and Rose Garden. CHRISTOPHER NICHOLSON

has been working at Tyntesfield since 2004 and in his present role since 2011. He has a full-time team of seven gardeners supported by 35 volunteers. There are also approximately 50 garden guides who conduct free guided talks for visitors. “All of the gardens are as they were in the last decade of the 19th century. There have been no major changes and we still have all of the different classic elements created in the Victorian era by the Gibbs family. The last two generations didn’t change the estate much so the spirit here is high Victorian at its peak up to the years before the outbreak of the First World War in 1914. “The family was still very rich and the gardens and estate were well maintained with many staff. The kitchen garden illustrates how they consumed fruit and vegetables all year round by cultivating them under glass. We grow figs, apricots,

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peaches and nectarines together with a vinery. “Wherever in the world the Victorians found new plants and trees they brought them back to England. The Gibbs family were able to afford to buy these new introductions from nurseries. They created an arboretum and named it Paradise.” It has an extensive selection of 19thcentury trees and shrubs. There are different Victorian conifers, including several champion trees. Probably the best is the zelkova from Japan on the edge of the ha-ha. Zelkova are deciduous trees from the elm family. Historical records reveal the Gibbses went on a religious pilgrimage to the Holy Land in 1858. They visited Lebanon and from the natural habitat collected seeds of more than a dozen species of plant all of which later appeared at Tyntesfield.

“The Gibbses brought back olive branches and olive seed collected from the Garden of Gethsemane which lies at the foot of the Mount of Olives in Jerusalem. “A lot of trees and shrubs at Tyntesfield are early introductions from the Holy Land which is not surprising since the early generations were deeply religious. “The formal garden and arboretum are designed to be explored from the house. The Paradise tree collection is between the house and Home Farm and we’ve labelled 50 trees there. It’s the perfect place for a picnic and a great place for children to run around on the big lawns. “There’s a circular path running through Paradise. Some of the labels date from the 1840s but most of the trees were planted between 1870 and 1900.”

CHRISTOPHER NICHOLSON PAUL BLAKEMORE

The colourful gardens, evidence of the continuing work and (left) Area Ranger Darren Mait and Ranger Janine Connor.

Darren Mait, Area Ranger at Tyntesfield, has planted 2,000 trees on the estate over the last two years assisted by Ranger Janine Connor and around 16 volunteers. “Rhododendrons were firmly established along the woodlands in the late 19th century,” Darren explains, “but we removed them because they host diseases that affect other trees. It allowed us to plant native broadleaf species in their place which include oak, beech, hornbeam, sweet chestnut, maple, spindle and hazel. These new

trees link the ancient woodland at Wraxall to the plantation here.” Darren is also responsible as Area Ranger for the planting of a new 11-acre 350-tree orchard over a five-year period. “These include the nationally important Tidnor cider apple collection saved by the Trust after the owner suggested he might move his orchards to France. Varieties rejoice in names such as slackma-girdle, netherton late blower and billy down pippin.” Last word to Lisa Topham: “There are several large-scale conservation projects still going on such as the restoration of the lake, reinstating old collapsed glasshouses and installing new estate fencing around the park. These investments are an exciting part of the conservation and restoration of the property. “We’re in the Higher Level Stewardship Scheme which is funded

through Natural England providing us with capital works each year for further restoration. “The HLS also covers hedge restoration, the planting of 30 new trees in the parkland, boundary wall restoration, and the improvement of the 200-acre wild-flower meadows. An important part of my job is to look at how we can encourage people to get off the beaten track to enjoy the wider landscape. Old meadows have a rich diversity of plant life. It’s a wonderfully peaceful oasis. The public can take a walk or enjoy a picnic undisturbed by other visitors. It’s encouraging to see how that’s developing.” DALE LE VACK Further Information Tyntesfield, Wraxall, Bristol, Somerset BS48 1NX Tel: 0344 8004966 www.nationaltrust.org.uk/tyntesfield THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

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This England’s Golden Anniversary A CELEBR ATORY ALBUM

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ifty years ago, Roy Faiers a wonderfully patriotic and talented journalist, with a number of regional magazines to his name, launched a new quarterly publication in his hometown of Grimsby, Lincolnshire. He described his latest magazine, This England, as “Refreshing as a pot of tea!” and in his first editorial, he wrote: “I hope you will find real enjoyment among its pages, for we shall seek to capture the true spirit of England in every edition.” Two hundred issues and half a century later, inspired by Roy Faiers’ example, we remain true to his words and intentions. In every edition we continue to celebrate England — blessed with its magnificent countryside, culture, heritage and traditions — and the English way of life. During the past five decades, much of This England’s success is due to you, our devoted readers across the world, together with our marvellous contributors, the writers, poets and photographers, whose work has graced the pages of this exceptional magazine over the years. We thank you all for the part you have played. In celebration and recognition of this, we invited readers and some of our regular contributors to share their memories of This England, to tell us what England means to them, and to highlight their favourite places in our “green and pleasant land”. We also thought that our readers might like to see what our regular contributors look like so that when they are reading their work in the future, they can put a face to a name! We will be sharing more of these fascinating anecdotes and stories with you in the summer issue, and we’re already looking ANGELINE WILCOX forward to the next 50 years!

Roger Harvey

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can be moved to tears or swept to excitement by the sounds of England, amongst which English itself is most amazing when we realise how this once-obscure dialect has become a world language, the most powerful and versatile known to humankind. It inspires in innumerable ways, from the sound of a child reading her first storybook to the cries of the Speaker calling “Order!” (that he is not always heeded echoes the freedoms we enjoy); from Shakespeare’s quill to today’s keypad, it can express, as Keats put it, “...all we know and all we need to know”. The weight of history told in this language should not to burden us but thrill us, from the struggles of ancient cultures to the amazing achievements in the longest reign of our greatest Queen. There is delicious melancholy and rumbustious vigour in English music: strains of lute and viol to which Tudor queens would dance, the glories of Handel’s pomp and the tenderness of his arias, the achingly nostalgic themes of Delius, the potent appeal of our pop-music and memories evoked by a favourite TV theme. What wonders can be heard outside: the haunting cry of the curlew on our moors, the yelp of gulls along our shores, the song of the nightingale on a dusky summer evening, the crunch of snow on a winter’s day, the growl of a Spitfire returning from an air-show, the exquisite thunder of steam whistles from a great Cunarder setting out to cross the Atlantic, the distant roar of a huge jet folding gently down over a sunlit morning, the crisp exhaust of a classic sports car taking the curves of a country road, the welcoming clink of fine china by the warm hiss of a fire when we are safely home for tea.

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Paul James

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t was on Prince Charles’s 40th birthday in November 1988 that I first discovered This England. I had written numerous royal biographies, associated books and articles, and was broadcasting regularly about the Royal Family. To mark the Prince’s birthday, I was invited to be a guest on a celebratory live television programme presented by Alan Titchmarsh, Judi Spiers and Sue Cook. Before embarking on a long train journey to the BBC Pebble Mill studios in Birmingham, I searched the station bookshop for something to read. It was the cover of This England that initially attracted me. I bought my first copy and was enchanted by it. I soon took out a subscription and eventually began to wonder if a royal article would fit into the magazine. I approached the Editor Roy Faiers, suggesting a piece on “Prince Charles’s Other Grandmother”. I felt then that we knew everything about one of his grandmothers, Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother, yet so little about the other — Prince Philip’s remarkable mother, Princess Alice. Mr. Faiers responded that he thought “the idea worthy of merit”, but instead of one article, he requested a whole series on past members of the Royal Family from the 20th century who were within living memory, which we called “Royalty Remembered”. My first article was published in the spring 1992 edition. I wrote the column for over 10 years, plus other articles to coincide with major royal birthdays and anniversaries. In 2006 I began a new series “The Royal History of England”. This has been in 45 issues so far, with quite a few more to go to reach Elizabeth II, and possibly even up to King Charles III…on whose birthday 30 years ago This England first came into my life!

Maureen Kishtaini

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first became aware of This England when I returned to Britain after living for over 30 years in the Middle East, first in Basrah, Iraq and then Abu Dhabi in the UAE. But it was as a teacher of English as a Foreign Language in Abu Dhabi that started my article writing, mostly about teaching but also reflections about life in an Arab society. But back in England on a permanent basis, I had the opportunity to discover or rediscover places that interested me, be it regarding history, architecture or landscape. Not forgetting the people who had made a meaningful contribution to their fields of interest or expertise. So my article writing continued. But I needed an outlet, hopefully a market too. Fortunately, my articles seemed to tick just the right boxes for This England and thus began a happy and successful association. How do I choose my subjects? In a variety of ways. Anniversaries of births, deaths and significant events are a good starting point. So too is finding somewhere or something unique. Bromley House, a private library in Nottingham, certainly qualified in this respect. Research is essential. Capability Brown was a point in question. Familiar with his name but little else, I devoured books about his life and work as well as enjoying several of his gardens at first hand. And once in the field, the appropriate equipment is vital — notebook, camera, eyes and ears. In particular, I try to discover some nugget of information that exudes the atmosphere of a place or reveals the character of a person. Recently on holiday in Looe, Cornwall, I was fascinated by a young boy crabbing by the harbour. The words, “crustaceans, claws, translucent” floated into my consciousness, already destined for my next article.

Brian Arundel,

Germany ongratulations on the golden anniversary of your unique and praiseworthy magazine. I have been a reader almost since its inception when it was given to me by a cousin, and after her death I continued to subscribe. It represents a treasury of English life, with its superb illustrations and interesting articles. Long may this magazine continue to give pleasure and joy to its readers.

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Stuart Millson

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ay back in 1987 (that’s if my memory serves me correctly) I penned an article about one of our great English composers, Sir Edward Elgar. I sent one or two copies of the piece to various magazines, including a title that I often saw (but never subscribed to, I am ashamed to say!) — This England. In August 1988, sitting at home one Saturday morning, an unusually heavy item of post came through the letterbox — a copy of This England, with a note that my Elgar article — “His music breathes the spirit of England” — had been published within. A cheque also fell from the pages, undoubtedly launching my career as a writer of articles! In 1989 or 1990 (again, memory is cloudy) an advertisement appeared in the magazine, stating that a sub-editor’s position had become available; and my old friend, also a fellow “TE” contributor, Andy Smith, recommended that I apply. I duly submitted a CV and was invited to Cheltenham to see Roy Faiers, the Editor and founder. After this meeting, a few months passed by... But one day in the early summer of 1991, a letter came from Mr. Faiers offering me the position at the old Alma House HQ, in which I would learn “the whole caboodle” of magazine editing and production. So I moved to the Cotswolds for three years, working my apprenticeship and being rewarded with a regular column, “Forever England” — a section which had quite a lot to say about Britain’s European Union membership! Since those days, I have maintained a steady flow of articles for This England (and Evergreen and Explore England), and — astonishingly — the year 2018 has come into being: my own 30th anniversary as a writer for this unique magazine.

Stephen Roberts

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hat connects Lakes’ poet Robert Southey, artist Edmund Wimperis and retail magnate Mr. Selfridge? Answer: They all lived in Christchurch, in the traditional county of Hampshire, at one time or another. Wimperis and Selfridge are buried here. Here, pithily stated, is what I love about both England and the town where I hang my hat. History abounds. For a modest borough of some 40,000 souls, Christchurch punches above its weight in terms of historical clout. Twentyodd royal personages set foot here in days past: everyone from King John to Princess Victoria. John simply couldn’t stay away, rocking up here no fewer than ten times. Why, we even had the German Kaiser here in 1907 (Wilhelm II). An Anglo-Saxon fortified burh under Alfred the Great, Christchurch profited from the Norman Conquest with a mention in the Domesday Book and its feature building, the late-11th century Priory (right), reputedly England’s longest parish church at 311 feet head to toe. It also has a classic motte and bailey castle, besieged more than once in its eventful life and left ruinous on the orders of Oliver Cromwell. The town has stored up smuggling tales in the same way the perpetrators would have stacked up barrels of contraband. If you believe all the tales of secret tunnels we must be living atop a veritable warren of subterranean passageways. We even had a battle here in 1784 between smugglers and revenue men. It’s not just history that makes you fall in love with a place though, it’s also the vista and here we are blessed with sea, harbour, two rivers (Avon and Stour), a mill stream, venerable bridges, a pair of quays, and beaches. THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

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Christopher Nicholson

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lthough I was born and brought up a long way from the sea I have always been fascinated by England’s maritime heritage. Tiny coastal harbours and bustling commercial ports draw me to their history and tradition. Later on I became fascinated by the remote lighthouses guiding vessels safely around the English coast, so when I became seriously interested in photography they all naturally caught my eye. This one (see right), a relatively recent shot of Newlyn harbour in Cornwall, is one of my favourites. We can see a complete range of fishing vessels from the tiny one-man day boats to the huge deep-water trawlers safely berthed within the harbour walls. At its mouth stands a lighthouse whose unceasing flash will have guided those boats safely back to port in darkness and storm. It’s a vibrant mix of colour, shapes and atmosphere. The waters in this English harbour are tranquil, but outside there’s a gale blowing sending white horses scudding across the sea, keeping all boats at their berths. Beyond the harbour mouth lies the unmistakable profile of one of England’s finest coastal landmarks — St. Michael’s Mount. This particular image reminds me of John Masefield’s poem “Sea Fever” whose lesser-known second verse contains the lines: “And all I ask is a windy day with the white clouds flying, And the flung spray and the blown spume, and the sea-gulls crying.”

John Husband

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ith an interest in photography in the 1970s I spent hours devouring photographic magazines, later teaching myself the art of developing and printing, in those days, black and white prints. There were a few photographers whose names cropped up regularly in photo magazines, among them Jane Miller and Raymond Lea. Mr. Lea wrote articles telling readers how to give impetus to their hobby by contributing pictures to magazines, and I was keen to emulate his success. When a friend passed on a few copies of This England dating from the 1970s, I was delighted to see that these contained pictures by both Mrs. Miller and Mr. Lea. The photographs presented double page impressed me the most, so much so that I invested £49 in a secondhand medium-format camera to produce the large transparencies required. In 1983 I sent off my first batch of 11, taking care to follow the submission guidelines and include return postage and packing. Ten were returned, with one kept on file. Shortly after I sent a batch of 11 black and white prints, of which nine were retained. In total I have sent 125 envelopes to Cheltenham, recently these have been CDs of digital files making this task a lot easier. They are always acknowledged with courtesy. I remember the excitement of browsing through the summer 1987 edition in the newsagents and seeing my first photograph used across two pages, helping to illustrate Rupert Brooke’s poem “Forever England”. I still look for out my work when the latest edition hits the shelves. Further advice from Raymond Lea was to use words to accompany pictures, and my first article to be published was a portrait of the village of Veryan in my home county of Cornwall. More recently I have seen my pictures on the cover, and enjoyed looking out for them in the newsagents!

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June Byrne

by Email first came across This England in the waiting room of the Sir William Rous unit at Kingston upon Thames Hospital. My husband was waiting for his first session of chemotherapy. It was such interesting reading that our minds were completely taken off what lay ahead. I was both entranced and enchanted by This England. I took that copy home with me although I did return it when we returned for my husband’s next session as, by then, I had subscribed. We both have been avid readers ever since; it is now a question of who can get to the magazine first as it drops on the hall mat! This England has lifted my spirits in the darkest days. Thank you so much for such delightful reading and wonderful historical articles about this wonderful country of ours. I constantly have a notebook by my side as I am reading to make notes of interesting places to go.

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Melodie Kind Kelmer,

USA was born and raised in “this green and pleasant land”, attending the Arts Educational School in London. At the age of 18, I arrived in New York, USA, to eagerly begin my new life as a nanny to a family of four children and later to another family with two children, a busy and hectic life. My mother began sending me subscriptions to This England in 1968. My aunt later came across Evergreen and also began subscribing to it for me, both of them making sure that I never forgot my homeland! I looked forward to receiving them on a regular basis and now my husband has taken over the gift subscriptions for me as my mother and aunt have passed on. Thanks to Evergreen, I was able to track down my half-sister Roberta in 1997, (who I hadn’t seen since she was eight and I was three), and we’ve both been delighted to have re-established our relationship and have spent many wonderful times together every year since. Without your beautiful magazines this would probably never have happened. Thank you with all my heart.

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Iris Hesselden Congratulations to This England A golden anniversary! A really special date, With happy thoughts and memories A time to celebrate. With thanks for all the loveliness The beauty that you share, The days you lift our spirits And brush away all care. This England brings us sunny times From places far and near, We keep the joy within our hearts — Be with us every year!

Tony Nicholson,

East Sussex y association with This England goes back without a break to the winter 1972 issue. “Rural Evening” by Matthew Arnold was the poem that introduced that edition and for me it set the tone. I find it relaxing simply to pick an edition out and read it again and see the wonderful photography that has graced its pages. I have had a quarterly visit from you for about 45 years. This England is a contrast to the coarseness of the internet age and long may it be so.

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Paul Makepeace,

Gloucestershire became a This England reader in spring 1984 as I was going abroad on a business trip. After checking-in, I browsed the magazines on offer for something to read during the flight. My eyes fell upon the front cover of a magazine which showed a picture of a house from my home county of Derbyshire. Although I had not heard of the magazine before, the title This England appealed to me. As a patriotic Englishman since my scouting days this was the magazine for me. The flight passed quickly and I had a very pleasant read. As I had been associated with the publishing trade all my working life, I wanted to know where the magazine was produced. I was pleased and surprised to find that it was in Cheltenham where I had just moved to only a few weeks before. I became a regular reader, passing it on to my mum who was also delighted with it, but disappointed that it was quarterly and not monthly. Ten years later, having been made redundant from the travelling job, I wrote to Roy Faiers, the Editor and founder of This England. He made me very welcome and offered me the position of Production Manager which I was delighted to accept. Over the following 17 years, we progressed from manually pasting up the bromide text into pages, to full page computer make-up including all the images. All the 14,000 photographic transparencies were also scanned into a computer searchable picture database. The magazine has changed slightly in content and appearance over those 33 years, but it is still informative and a delight to read. Congratulations on reaching 50 years and I hope it gives readers pleasure for many more years.

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Vera Bayliss,

Essex y first copy of your lovely magazine was winter 1968/69. In fact I brought two copies. I had gone to Barnstaple, Devon, to visit a great friend in hospital and took a copy for her to read. Thumbing through it with her I realised it was for me. I was not wrong for I have enjoyed every copy since. The contents are always so varied and interesting and portray the strong feelings we have for our beloved country.

M

Do you have any This England memories to share? If so, please send them to: This England, The Lypiatts, Lansdown Road, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire GL50 2JA or email: editor@thisengland. co.uk .

THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

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LITERARY LANDSCAPES OF ENGLAND

The Cornwall of Thomas Hardy

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he recent film version of Thomas Hardy’s Far from the Madding Crowd is the fourth to be made of his 1874 novel, so there can be no doubt of the author’s popularity. Hardy’s novels were usually set in the Dorset heathland around Dorchester and Wareham, and this region has long been marketed as Hardy country. The author, however, also has associations with Cornwall. Quite significant ones too, for North Cornwall is where he met his first wife Emma, and where he gathered the material for his third novel, A Pair of Blue Eyes, the first to be published under his name, and which inspired some of his later poems. In his twenties, Hardy was an architect with the firm of Crickmay, who had recently taken over the practice he worked for in Dorchester. In

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1870, aged 29, he was sent to visit the hamlet of Hennett, near Boscastle in North Cornwall. The church of St. Juliot had fallen into disrepair, and the parish had amassed sufficient funds to restore it. Hardy’s job was to

survey the building, and prepare a design for a new tower and chancel. He was given accommodation at the rectory by the rector, Reverend Caddell Holder, and it so happened that Hardy fell in love with the rector’s sister-in-law, Emma Lavinia Gifford. Whilst there, he also began to gather material for a novel. This was to be partly autobiographical, with a complicated plot centred on Stephen Smith, a young architect who had been sent to North Cornwall to conduct a survey prior to rebuilding a crumbling church at fictional Endlestow, a few miles from a fictional coastal village by the name of Castle Boterel. In the novel, Smith came from The rectory, Boscastle harbour London, and he fell in love with and (above) Beeny Cliff, where the romance of Thomas Hardy and the rector’s niece Elfrida. In Emma Gifford (pictured) began. fact, Hardy had spent five years in London where he worked

“When I Set Out for Lyonnesse”

The stream in the Valency valley that inspired a poem.

for church designer Arthur Blomfield before returning to Dorchester. There are details in the novel which almost certainly reflect Hardy’s experiences, such as the long train journey with many changes, and the pony and trap ride from the station to the rectory, arriving late at night. Suffering from gout, the rector had gone to bed and Hardy was received by Emma. This was before the railway line from Exeter via Okehampton had been extended to North Cornwall, and the nearest station was probably Bodmin Road, which would have meant a long road journey. Interestingly, following the closure of the North Cornwall line by Beeching, Bodmin Road is still the nearest rail connection today. Setting out to explore North Cornwall’s Hardy country recently, I parked in the large car park at Boscastle and followed the footpath to St. Juliot church. This took me through wooded countryside that would have been familiar to Hardy and his future wife.

The path follows the Valency River, pronounced with an emphasis on the second syllable, not as in its chemical context. Hardy and Emma picnicked here and dropped a tumbler into the stream, an incident which later became the subject of his poem, “Under the Waterfall”. The river is by nature a fairly gentle stream flowing into the sea at Boscastle, but in August 2004, some six hours of heavy rain on the catchment area above turned it into a torrent which swept boulders down to the car park and onto the harbour, taking vehicles, shops and bridges with it. Few who saw the news footage, frequently repeated in those TV extreme weather documentaries, will forget the sight of camper vans and cars being carried by the flood through the harbour

When I set out for Lyonnesse, A hundred miles away, The rime was on the spray, And starlight lit my lonesomeness When I set out for Lyonnesse A hundred miles away. What would bechance at Lyonnesse While I should sojourn there No prophet durst declare, Nor did the wisest wizard guess What would bechance at Lyonnesse While I should sojourn there. When I came back from Lyonnesse With magic in my eyes, All marked with mute surmise My radiance rare and fathomless, When I came back from Lyonnesse With magic in my eyes! THOMAS HARDY to end up on the seabed. A total of 75 cars, five caravans and six buildings were washed away. Today the village, which is in the care of the National Trust, has been restored, and inhabitants remain

The Church of St. Juliot which was rebuilt by Thomas Hardy and the view from the churchyard.

THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

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‘LITERARY LANDSCAPES OF ENGLAND’ (continued)

thankful that no lives were lost that afternoon. Avoiding the detour to Minster church, which crosses the river by a wooden footbridge, after a mile or so of woodland walking I arrived at Newmills and struck out across open fields affording wide views across the Valency valley. It is easy to miss the footpath signs which direct us to the church, and walkers may be confused by the reference to St. Julietta’s church on one of them. Eventually I climbed a stile to get my first glimpse of Hardy’s church, its square tower smaller than the 14th-century original, framed by a group of trees and silhouetted against the sky on the far side of the field. The church porch looks out across the Valency valley and an ancient Celtic cross stands guard at the gate. The rebuilt church is smaller than the original, and Hardy made great efforts to reuse materials and fittings, although not always in this church— the Elizabethan altar rails were taken out and reused at Selbourne. Emma laid the first stone of the rebuilding. Strangely perhaps, Hardy did not attend the rededication of the restored church in April 1872, nor did he and Emma visit it again during their married life. After Emma’s death in 1912, Hardy returned the following year and arranged for the erection of the memorial plaque that we see on the north aisle. This visit also bore literary fruit as it inspired his Poems of 1912-13, in which he expressed his feelings for Emma, from whom he had become estranged during the last few years of their marriage. After his death in 1928, a plaque to his memory, also of his own design, was erected alongside his first wife’s. In 2003, another link with Dorset was forged when an engraved memorial window was installed on the south wall, funded by an appeal from the Thomas Hardy Society. This was designed by Simon Whistler, son of the famous glass engraver Laurence Whistler, whose windows adorn the church of St. Nicholas at Moreton in Dorset. It celebrates Hardy’s time in Cornwall with designs based on three of his poems, illustrating his journey from Dorset, the tumbler incident during a picnic beside the river, and his poem set on Beeny Cliff, of which more later. The Old Rectory, half a mile from the church, is now a guest house and the owner has made good use of its associations with the famous novelist. Guests can stay in Hardy’s room, Emma’s room, even the rector’s room,

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Beeny Cliff O the opal and the sapphire of that wandering western sea, And the woman riding high above with bright hair flapping free — The woman whom I loved so, and who loyally loved me. The pale mews plained below us, and the waves seemed far away In a nether sky, engrossed in saying their ceaseless babbling say, As we laughed light-heartedly aloft on that clear-sunned March day. A little cloud then cloaked us, and there flew an irised rain, And the Atlantic dyed its levels with a dull misfeatured stain, And then the sun burst out again, and purples prinked the main. Still in all its chasmal beauty bulks old Beeny to the sky, And shall she and I not go there once again now March is nigh, And the sweet things said in that March say anew there by and by? Nay. Though still in chasmal beauty looms that wild weird western shore, The woman now is — elsewhere — whom the ambling pony bore, And nor knows nor cares for Beeny, and will see it nevermore.

which are all furnished in period style. It is surrounded by lovely gardens, and is very eco-friendly, even having an electric vehicle charging point. Beeny Cliff (above) lies to the north of Boscastle’s harbour, reached by taking the cliff path as it rises steeply through the shales which make up the geology here. At the top I arrived a little out of breath at Penally with magnificent views north along the coast towards Crackington Haven. Beeny Cliff is immediately ahead, made up of grey shale and reached via Fire Beacon Point, passing on the way Pentargon waterfall, subject of another Hardy

poem, where a small stream plunges down from a hanging valley. It was here that Hardy came with Emma, who was on horseback, in March 1870. It featured in A Pair of Blue Eyes as the location where Elfride and her suitor Henry Knight become trapped on a ledge on the cliff face. Hardy’s poem “Beeny Cliff” was written after Emma’s death, following his visit in 1913, recalling happier times 43 years earlier. She is also remembered in the old county town of Bodmin, where the street she once lived in has been renamed Emma Place. JOHN HUSBAND

Fifty Years of THIS ENGLAND

New!

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eople, places, literary landscapes, customs, curiosities, military heroes and notable events; royalty, film stars, craftsmen, churches, stately homes, country cottages and castles; childhood memories, county cameos, village characters, pomp and pageantry. Since This England first appeared on the newsagents’ shelves in spring 1968, and subsequently began dropping on the doormats of postal subscribers across the world, these, and many other subjects have been featured on the pages of the magazine. Often accompanied by pieces of poetry, and illustrated with beautiful colour photographs and the whimsical artwork of Colin Carr, they cover a wide spectrum. They are, however, united by one glorious, matchless theme…England.

As we celebrate this golden milestone we are delighted to present a special 100-page magazine looking back on This England through the decades. On its pages you will find a fascinating selection of articles, poems, pictures and letters that appeared during those 50 years, as well as special sections highlighting the events of each decade in England and the wider world. It wasn’t an easy task selecting which items to include from all those issues but we are confident that our choice captures the essence of This England. Which means, of course, as always, that it also captures the essence of our green and pleasant land, Shakespeare’s fabled “sceptred isle”. Whether you are new to This England or a long-time subscriber who has been with us since the beginning, you will find much to enjoy as you turn the pages: rediscovering old favourites, learning about a person or place of which you weren’t aware, revelling in the beauty of the English countryside, and Code: TE50 being reminded once again what a great country our England is. Just £6.99 to UK overseas £9.99. US $20; Can $21; Aus $22; NZ $26.

100pp, softback (Order now for delivery in June)

There is sure to be great demand for FIFTY YEARS OF THIS ENGLAND, which looks set to become a cherished collector’s item. To avoid disappointment order your copy today!

 0800 074 0188 (FREE from UK landlines) Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat 9am-5pm overseas: +44 1382 575052  This England Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 814, Haywards Heath, Sussex RH16 9LQ.

 www.thisengland.co.uk

E-mail: [email protected]

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THIS ENGLAND, Summer, 2017

29

Notes from a Cottage Garden by Rosemary Pettigrew

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his New Year was grey, windy and wet and, suffering from a heavy cold, I was stuck indoors for days. When I finally ventured into the garden, a depressing sight met my eyes. The heavy snow we’d had before the rain set in had broken off branches from some of the trees and split open the netting over the vegetable patch. The borders were full of withered stalks and the brown, soggy remains of rosebuds; some of my pots had cracked open and the glass in the greenhouse roof had slipped down because the supports had rotted. Piles of leaves had blown into corners and the lawn had turned a brilliant shade of green because of the moss. For the first time I had the feeling that the garden was taking over control from me. Was it all becoming too much? But then, reaching the far end of the garden, I turned a corner — and turned a corner in my mind — because there amid all the damp and decay was a flash of white. A little group of snowdrops were nodding their heads in encouragement. Of course the garden will be beautiful again they seemed to say. So the snowdrops banished my winter blues and boosted my confidence. Now I’m planning an exciting new year in the garden.

ROSES ARE RED? Ernie Paddon from Victoria, Australia has written to me to say he has been confused by a rose bush in his garden which has produced both red and yellow flowers. It certainly is a striking combination. The reason must be that Ernie has planted a rose that has had two types grafted together. The technique is to cut a young stem from one rose bush in midsummer when the sap is flowing. The stem should have flowered and have a little hardwood developing. Cut off the flower and leaves and trim to about 4-5 inches making the lower cut at an angle about an inch below a bud. On another rose bush make a slit in a stem between two buds, insert the cutting from the other rose and bind up with grafting tape — making sure that the bud is exposed and facing upwards. Water well.

Later this year I hope to be able to report on gardens in more depth. So if you have a favourite garden you’d like to see featured here please do let me know. Please check opening times before visiting any of these gardens. Coughton Court, near Alcester, Warwickshire B49 5TA. Thousands of daffodils of different colours and varieties make a stunning spring display. The Daffodil Society has its national show here on 21st and 22nd April. Later in the season the ancient woodlands are renowned for the extensive scented carpets of bluebells. Evenley Wood Garden, Brackley, Northamptonshire NN13 5SL. A 60-acre privately owned garden with swathes of spring bulbs and an 800m-long ‘stream’ of scillas. Later in the season magnolias, rhododendrons and azaleas produce a magnificent display.

JOHN BLAKE

Glendurgan Garden, Mawnan Smith, near Falmouth, Cornwall TR11 5JZ. Beautiful gardens in three sheltered valleys leading to the River Helford. In 1990 a severe storm felled more than 70 trees but, instead of replacing the trees, the area was planted with wildflowers. Spring brings a continuing display of primroses, violets, daffodils, bluebells and aquilegias.

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THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

Pashley Manor Gardens, Ticehurst, Wadhurst, Kent TN5 7HE. A romantic, quintessentially English garden with herbaceous borders, fountains, historic walled and rose gardens, woodland walks and stunning views. One of the special events held here is the famous Tulip Festival where many thousands of different tulips will be at the peak of perfection (21st April-8th May).

GRAHAM GOUGH

GARDENS TO VISIT

GREAT BRITISH BEE COUNT

Plant of the Season Azalea

PETER HERRING

Last year over 16,000 people took part in the Great British Bee Count which was featured on the BBC’s “Springwatch”. They recorded more than 300,000 bees providing valuable information that can be used to protect these precious pollinators. Suitable for all ages, the Great British Bee Count takes place this year between 17th May and 30th June and if you’d like to take part you can register at www.greatbritishbeecount.co.uk. When I registered, I was amazed to learn how many different species of bee there are — we have over 260 in Britain! I’ve also found out from the website how to make my garden more bee-friendly. Suggestions include growing pollen and nectar-rich flowers of different shapes from tubular to open-headed; keeping some weeds such as dandelions and clover; making sure there is a shallow bowl of clean rainwater with some pebbles in the bottom for bees to land on in hot weather; planting through the seasons so there is always food, and, of course, avoiding pesticides. BIRD WATCH

Throughout the winter I’ve had a lot of pleasure watching the birds that have enjoyed the seeds, nuts and fat balls that we have put out for them. There is literally a pecking order for the food with the blue tits being chased off by the great tits — and all birds hurriedly leaving when the great spotted woodpecker arrives. The great spotted woodpecker is a bird that, according to the latest annual report by the British Trust for Ornithology, is thriving with an increase in numbers of 300% since 1967. Another bird that is doing particularly well is the chiffchaff which seems to be benefiting from the warmer winters. JOHN BLAKE

LISA GEOGHEGAN

These beautiful spring-flowering shrubs have been popular garden, and house, plants for many centuries. They are native to many parts of the world including North America, Asia, Europe, Japan and China. Belonging to the genus Rhododendron there are two types — deciduous and evergreen. Deciduous azaleas can reach several feet in height and often have scented flowers and lovely autumn colour. The evergreen (or Japanese) azaleas are far smaller and much slower growing. There are now a huge variety of cultivars that come in many colours with the vibrant reds, purples and pinks being particularly popular. Azaleas like acid soil that is moist and well drained. Incorporate plenty of organic matter when planting, feed after flowering and mulch. If you don’t have acid soil, evergreen azaleas do well in pots of loambased ericaceous compost. Water containers with rainwater as tapwater may be too limey. Frosts can cause damage to the plants so protect in the winter. However, there are many once-familiar garden birds that are in sharp decline. Greenfinch populations have dropped significantly, and other species with rapidly falling numbers include the lesser spotted woodpecker, nightingale, house martin, tree sparrow, turtle dove and skylark. For full details please visit https://www.bto.org/about-birds/ birdtrends/2017. We have a range of Dwarf Evergreen Japanese Azaleas available to buy from This England Gifts. Only £7.99 each or five for £19.97. See the enclosed This England Gifts catalogue or go to www.thisengland.co.uk . THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

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The Merry Month of May

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ome lasses and lads, get leave of your dads, And away to the maypole hie, For every he has got a she, And the fiddler’s standing by... Anon

“Come to the May celebrations,” calls the old verse, with a hint of coupling, dancing and joyous celebration. England has an ancient tradition of celebrating May Day, or Beltane, as it was known in Celtic and Saxon history. The feast

A traditional maypole dancing scene at Slingsby, near Castle Howard, in Yorkshire. ROBERT RIXON

day marked the victory of summer over winter, heralding the new season of growth and fertility. The English have continued to honour the first day of May ever since. Different generations and communities have added their own interpretations to the occasion, so that we inherit a wealth of May Day customs. Hail, bounteous May, that doest inspire Mirth, and youth, and warm desire; Woods and grove are of thy dressing, Hill and dale does boast thy blessing. From “On May Morning” by John Milton (1608-1674)

Beltane was a spirited affair; a festival which began at sunset on May Day eve and lasted until Morris dancers at the Maypole Festival at Sedgley in Staffordshire. NIGEL D. ASTON

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sunset on the day itself. Bonfires were lit to represent cleansing. There was dancing, feasting and games, but most importantly participants revelled in the fertility of the countryside. Young men and women hurried to the woods before daybreak to gather garlands of mayflower blossom and birch wands. Legend has it that these forays were licentious affairs but, for that one night, illicit couplings were overlooked. It would seem that Greenwood marriages — betrothals which lasted a year and a day — were sanctioned and any resulting offspring, known as “Children of the Greenwood” or “Merry Begots” were honoured at the May Day feast. By the 17th century Philip Stubbes, the Puritan pamphleteer, was berating the activity. Against the backdrop of the Civil War he wrote that, “...of forty, three score, or a hundred maids, going to the wood over night, they have scarcely the third part of them returned home again undefiled”. There’s not a budding boy or girl, this day, But is got up, and gone to bring in May... And some have wept and wooed, and plighted troth, And chose their priest, ere we can castoff sloth: Many a green-gown has been given, Many a kiss, both odd and even: Many a glance, too, has been sent From out the eye, love’s firmament: Many a jest told of the keys betraying This night, and locks picked: yet we’re not a-Maying! From “Corinna’s Going A-Maying” by Robert Herrick (1591-1674)

“The bringing in of May” — the blossom of the hawthorn — was a significant part of the day for many generations. (Calendar changes in 1752 meant that May Day was 11 days further into summer than it is today and hence the May further into flower. The spring solstice was known as New Year before the change.) Children would make garlands, hang them on neighbours’ door knobs and thus earn the right to beg for money; in the same way that Christmas carollers collect money for their singing. Young girls were advised to bathe their faces in the dew of the May-buds to ensure “the blush of the rose and the whiteness of the lily”. In his book, Common Wayside Flowers published in 1860, Thomas Miller writes, “Go into the country, and

ADINA TOVY

MIKE HAYWARD

you will meet young men and maidens, and even little children, returning home laden with May.” Among the buds proclaiming May, Decking the fields in holiday array, Striving who shall surpass in braverie, Marke the faire flowering of the hawthorn tree Who finely clothed in a robe of white, Fills full the wanton eye with May’s delight. Geoffrey Chaucer (c.1343-1400)

By around 1350 the fetching of the maypole was taking on a greater significance. The night-time revellers would emerge from the woods at dawn in a procession with their newly cut pole; possibly affirming their rights, in an annual wood-gathering march to Grovely Forest. Many interpretations have been offered on the symbolism of the maypole. Pagans promote the pole as a phallic symbol and the ribbons as the female form, Earth worshippers see it as a channel guiding the energy of the dance down into the Earth’s womb, encouraging her fertility. To Puritan observers, maypoles were a manifestation of papal influence or alternatively a form of idol worship and they were banned by an Act of Parliament in 1644. Others have likened the pole to a crucifix with the dancers representing the Apostles. Whatever we believe, the maypole has survived into the 21st century as the most recognised symbol and focal point of May Day. The crowning of a May queen has its roots in early Beltane rituals. She has taken many forms through the ages: Lady of the May, Mary Magdalene and Maid Marian. Sometimes she was given

The Green Man in London (above) and Clun, Shropshire (left), is a favourite May Day character.

a consort who was in charge of the revels — the May King — also materialising as the Green Man, Jack in the Green, Robin Goodfellow and Robin Hood. You must wake and call me early, call me early, mother dear, Tomorrow’ll be the happiest time of all the glad new year, Of all the glad new year, mother, the maddest, merriest day, For I’m to be Queen o’ the May, mother, I’m to be Queen o’ the May. From “The May Queen” by Alfred, Lord Tennyson (1809-1892)

During the Middle Ages the legends of Robin Hood became popular and were acted-out by mummers. Saint George and the Dragon, hobby horses

and Morris bands became associated with May Day. There were athletic games and tug-of-war. It was a colourful, exciting and bawdy occasion with a good deal of drunken and rowdy behaviour, but by the 16th century the celebrating of May Day was reaching its zenith. The May games attracted the attention of reformers who were hostile to all “folk” gatherings and there was a background of disapproval from the Puritan movement throughout the Elizabethan and Stuart eras. “Playacting,” said Stubbes, encouraged “whoredom and uncleanness”. By 1644 the ascendance of the Puritan cause and the Civil War had brought a ban to May Day activities, as well as Christmas celebrations and even the playing of football.

Below: Colourful costumes and celebrations are all part of the Jack in the Green Festival at Hastings in Sussex.

DAVID SELLMAN

F THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

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‘THE MERRY MONTH OF MAY’ (continued)

The ‘Obby ‘Oss procession in the streets of the Cornish town of Padstow on May Day.

With the restoration of the monarchy in 1660, May Day was no longer outlawed. The diarist Samuel Pepys recorded the raising of a maypole on 1st May 1660. “Today I hear they were very merry at Deal, setting up the King’s flag upon one of their maypoles and drinking his health upon their knees in the Another hobby horse features in the May Day celebrations at Minehead in Somerset. ROBERT HARDING/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

streets.” The following year a maypole was erected on the Strand to celebrate the return of Charles II to London and they have continued to be raised for special royal occasions up to the present day. May Day was never quite the same in its reinstatement. Perhaps it had less relevance during the industrialisation of England. Maypoles were brought into the cities but the tradition became less fashionable and began to fade during the 18th century. The Victorians cleaned up the image of May Day and reinvented it for their times. Now it represented all that was wholesome: an innocent country custom. The May Queen and her retinue of dancers wore virginal white and carried posies. The maypole was garlanded with ribbons and streamers and the dance became a morally correct presentation on the village green or in the town park. While Earth herself is adorning This sweet May morning, And the Children are culling On every side, In a thousand valleys far and wide, Fresh flowers; while the sun shines warm, And the Babe leaps up on his Mother’s arm. From “Ode” by William Wordsworth (1770-1850)

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GoUK/NEIL SUTHERLAND/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

The Arts and Crafts Movement of the late-19th century encouraged the revival of traditional craftsmanship and nostalgia for a lost vision of “Olde England”. Country entertainments including maypole dancing were championed. In 1881 John Ruskin, the artist, critic and social philosopher designed a May Day pageant for Whitelands Teacher Training College in Chelsea. The influence continued into the 20th century with a drive to teach “folk” dance to children in schools, including the ribbon dances of the maypole. It was essentially the secular nature of the festival — May Day does not commemorate any prominent religious occasions — which attracted the attentions of the socialist movement and the “people’s day” was adopted as a Labour Day. In 1975, amid much political debate, the state recognised May Day as a bank holiday and reinstated it to be celebrated on the first Monday of May. With many communities working to keep the traditions alive there is sure to be a May Day event close to home. But don’t forget to dip your face in the May dew, garland your door with spring flowers, frolic through the woods and marvel at the fragrance of new growth. KITTY PIKE

This England’s Annual 2018

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roduced by the same editorial team responsible for each quarterly issue of This England, and packed with stunning colour photographs and poems and articles on a wide range of subjects, our Annual promises to be more popular than ever before. As well as providing regular readers of the magazine with a much-anticipated “fifth issue”, This England’s Annual is also top of many people’s lists Just when deciding what to give a friend or relative as a greatvalue, easy-to-purchase gift. From articles about English places and notable people to UK to features about English customs, history and colourful characters, there is something for everyone. And not only that: every item in the 2018 Annual is published for the first time, and because the articles are refreshingly unconcerned with the problems and controversies of today, they never go out of date and can be enjoyed again and again.

Last chance to buy!

£6.99

Softback, 100 pages.

HIGHLIGHTS INCLUDE:

SHIPPING FORECAST: “Viking, Forties, Cromarty, Forth, Tyne, Dogger, Fisher, German Bight…” We tell the story behind this •THE much-loved English institution. KIPLING: His poem “If” was recently voted the nation’s favourite. We look at the life and work of one of England’s •RUDYARD greatest writers. OR FICTION?: He has been immortalised in pantomime and is always depicted with a cat. But who was Dick Whittington? •FACT A MOST PARK: Dinosaurs lurk in the undergrowth, stone sphinxes guard a flight of steps that leads…nowhere. A site in •London stillPECULIAR evokes the lost glories of the Crystal Palace. LANGUAGE OF FLOWERS: Red roses for love, snowdrops for hope, marigolds for despair… for the Victorians, the blooms •THE they gave or received were laden with meaning. ENGLAND’S INNS: From Black Horse and Red Lion to Royal Oak and Cross Keys, the names of our pubs tell tales of •EXPLORING history, legend and local industry. There is also a quiz, pages of jokes to make you chuckle, glorious colour photographs depicting England throughout the year, a series of pictures portraying “Old London”, and much, much more. One copy: Code: TEA18 Just £6.99 to UK, overseas £9.25. US $19; Can $20; Aus $21; NZ $24.

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THIS ENGLAND, Winter, 2017

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But sometimes in my head at night Or when I’m all alone, I walk across those purple moors And like delirium I see entwined together The oak tree and the gum. Spent many years in England Before I left her shore, And now I am Australian And couldn’t ask for more. I still love the country of my birth So when my time is come Bury me in English oak Beneath Australian gum.

NEW REQUESTS

Are you haunted by a few lines from a poem and want help in finding the rest of the words? Do you have a favourite verse you’d like to share with us? Or have you been writing poetry for years and would like others to read your work? If the answer is “Yes” to any of these questions please write to me, Susan Kelleher, at This England, The Lypiatts, Lansdown Road, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire, GL50 2JA, or email [email protected]

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ustralia is a wonderful country which is home to many This England readers. It’s somewhere I have always wanted to go to — and hopefully will one day. Bob Townshend lives in Dalveen in Queensland and has sent me the lyrics to a song he has written. It puts into words the feelings that he has for both his native and his adopted country. THE OAK TREE AND THE GUM The thread of immigration Started on that day When the good ship the “Endeavour” Sailed into Botany Bay. She was made from English oak, She was the first to come, And set a mighty precedent, The oak tree and the gum.

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reader has asked me to trace a verse that has stood him in good stead over the years. He first heard it in the 1940s and has always wondered where it came from. I have drawn a blank so if anyone recognises it, please do let me know and I’ll pass the information on.

The first fleet filled with convicts, Like an acorn in the sun, Put down the roots of progress, Immigration had begun. From high-born place, from countryside, From city and from slum, To settle in Australia, The oak tree and the gum.

Sometimes when things aren’t going right and worries seem supreme, When heartache fills your eyes with tears and all things useless seem, There’s someone who can wipe away the tears that scold and blind. The one who puts an arm round you and whispers, “Never mind.”

Two bloody wars in Europe Stopped immigration’s tide, Proud immigrants went back again And bravely fought and died. From both sides of the world they came To march to the same drum, And they stood tall together, The oak tree and the gum.

Does anyone know a poem about a rifle training session? The instructions on gun assembly were interspersed with descriptions of the beauty of the countryside. I have been searching for this poem for some time now for a reader in Portsmouth but have never found the right one. Mrs. W. Rickard from Bristol has asked me to trace a poem about a boy trying to post a letter for his father. She only recalls a few of the lines including:

Like many did before me I’ve made Australia home,

A protective canopy of oaks in the ancient woodland known as The Ercall, near Telford, JOHN HAYWARD Shropshire. See poem above.

“You know where the postbox is laddie”; I thought I did but when I got there, The postbox wasn’t in sight anywhere. I ran on and with never a stop Found it in a hairdresser’s shop!

Mrs. Christine Gatenby (9-757 Victoria Park Avenue, Scarborough, Ontario, Canada M4C 5N8) found a reference in a book to a poem by Gregory Shoesmith called “Remember This When I Was Best Forgotten”. She has never been able to trace the poem and hopes readers can help. In the 1970s Julie Wood (8 Black Horse Drive, Silkstone Common, Barnsley, Yorkshire S75 4SD) spent several summer holidays with her parents in Alfriston, East Sussex. They stayed in Dean’s Place Hotel which was then run by a Captain Brewster and his wife. On the bar was a framed poem about Alfriston which ended with the lines: Don’t let them know my heart is aching, For I shall tell them, when I come again.

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THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

She always leaned to watch for us, Anxious if we were late, In winter by the window, In summer by the gate. And though we mocked her tenderly, Who had such foolish care, The long way home would seem more safe Because she waited there. Her thoughts were all so full of us, She never could forget! And so I think that where she is She must be watching yet. Waiting till we come home to her, Anxious if we are late, Watching from Heaven’s window, Leaning on Heaven’s gate.

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ary Kempton from Sheffield sent me an intriguing poem on a First World War postcard addressed to a Mr. J. H. Wagstaff of Lady Grove, Ambergate, Derbyshire. Mary can’t recall how the poem came into her possession as the address means nothing to her. In December 1914 Kitchener announced that Ripon was to be developed into a garrison town and before long there were four different camps (known collectively as Ripon Camp). This humorous poem is a tongue-in-cheek look at life in this massive training camp that was capable of housing 30,000 troops. RIPON CAMP There’s an isolated, desolated spot I’d like to mention, Where all you hear is “stand at ease”, “quick march”, “slope arms”, “attention.”

The YMCA Hut at Ripon Camp, Yorkshire. A poem about this First World War training camp was discovered on a postcard. See this page. CHRONICLE/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO It’s miles away from anywhere, by Jove it is a rum un, A man lived there for 50 years and never saw a woman; There’s lots of tiny huts all dotted here and there, For those who live inside them I have offered many a prayer, It’s mud up to your eyebrows, it gets into your ears, But into it you have to go without a sign of fear; There’s soldiers living in the huts, it fills my heart with sorrow; With tear-dimmed eyes they say to me, it’s Ripon Camp tomorrow. Inside the huts live rats, they say as big as any goat; Last night a Soldier saw one “trying on his overcoat”. You “double” round the hut 3 times and dive into the cupboard, Sometimes they give you Bacon, sometimes they give you Cheese,

Which “marches” up and down your plate. “slopes arms” and “stands at ease”. At night you sleep on straw and boards just like a herd of cattle, And if perchance you should turn round, your bones begin to rattle, And when you hear “Reveille” blown, it makes you feel unwell, You knock the Icebergs off your feet and wish the Bugler in Hell; Now when the War is over, and we’ve captured Kaiser Billy, To shoot him would be merciful, and absolutely silly, Just send him up to Ripon Camp among the rats and clay, And let the Crown Prince watch him as he slowly fades away.

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lorence Owen from Truro, Cornwall, writes that one of her favourite spring poems is “Green Rain” by Mary Webb (1881–1927). I think it’s lovely and hope you enjoy it. Into the scented woods we’ll go, And see the blackthorn swim in snow. High above, in the budding leaves, A brooding dove awakes and grieves; The glades with mingled music stir, And wildly laughs the woodpecker. When blackthorn petals pearl the breeze, There are the twisted hawthorn trees Thick-set with buds, as clear and pale As golden water or green hail — As if a storm of rain had stood Enchanted in the thorny wood, And, hearing fairy voices call, Hung poised, forgetting how to fall.

LISA GEOGHEGAN

Julie says it was a beautiful poem that she believes was written by one of the guests. She always regrets not writing it down because, when she later returned to the hotel, the Brewsters and the poem had gone. Can anyone help? In my box of “treasures” are handmade cards my children have made for me over the years to celebrate Mothering Sunday. They are very special and it always cheers me up to take them out and reminisce! Celebrated three weeks before Easter Sunday, Mothering Sunday was originally a time when people went back to their “mother” church. Later it was a holiday when servants were given time off to go home and now it is a more general celebration of motherhood. A poem about a mother was recently requested by Dorothy Hodgetts of Rotherham, Yorkshire. She remembers her mother teaching it to her and thought it was entitled “Mother”. After a bit of hunting I discovered it on the internet — the poem is actually called “The Watcher” and was written by the American poet Margaret Widdemer (1884–1978).

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The Fraternity of St. George In 2018, thanks to a band of enthusiasts of all ages and from across England, the ancient skills and traditions of archery are being kept alive

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t is, perhaps, an indicator of just how deep the influence of the longbow runs in our national consciousness, that the name chosen for what has become the longest-running soap opera on the radio is The Archers. Other surnames attest to the continuation of folk memory if not the formal practice of the skill and craft which went into the manufacture and shooting of the longbow: Bowyer, the artisan who made them; Fletcher, who put the feathered flights on the arrows; Bowman, another name for archer, both of which words first appear in print in 1297. The Fraternity of Saint George is an association of men and women who perpetuate the tradition of archery with the famous longbow, by shooting at mark in open country. The mark designates the point at which the arrows are aimed, in the Fraternity’s context, a small plaque mounted on a wooden stake (whence the expressions “to stake a claim”, “to up the stakes”). In the original context, when the bows were deployed in battle, the mark would have been the enemy. But, for the moment, let me speak of the pacific practice of these devotees of the longbow, gathering from across the country, united in their love of every aspect of the sport. Dylan, aged 10, is from Birkenhead in Cheshire. He began shooting with a jelly bow, described as “a simple, yet effective, glass fibre compound bow”. Designed for beginners, it’s no toy, however. It may even be able to shoot an arrow a distance of 90 yards. Dylan is with his father and began shooting at the age of six. From the other end of the country, Horsham in Sussex, Imogen, now 12 years old, began shooting when she was five. Each of the youngsters handles a light bow but join the muster with all their fellow archers at 10.15 on a bright sunny morning

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to hear instructions for the ensuing day’s shoot from the Fraternity’s Captain, Brian Mooyaart, and his wife, Catherine, the Secretary. They are a disparate group of people, of all ages, with no fancy togs, and the bare essentials of their trade — bow, quiver containing around a dozen arrows, most slung from the belt, although one woman prefers the over-the-shoulder position. Our guide, James, also prefers that method. He’s not shooting today. He’s been unable to practise and is, he admits, not in the right shape to draw the bow with any degree of efficiency. For, as easy as putting an arrow against a string, opening the bow and letting fly might look, it demands strength, poise and stamina in equal proportion. The first mark is positioned a little over 100 yards away and I make no apology for using yards as opposed to the metric measure. Those of us of an age were brought up knowing about the cloth yard and the cloth-yard arrow which matched the distance roughly between shoulder and tip of the outstretched hand, that is, three feet or 36 inches. This was a standard measure used by early drapers and the arrow shot by the longbow was nominally the same. The mark is just visible behind a small clump of trees but since the trajectory of an arrow shot to cover the distance will be high, general direction seems to suffice for ranging in on the mark. The archers fan out in a long line across the brow of a rise above a narrow, shallow valley. They are to shoot three arrows, in their own time, after the order. I expect a similar sound to that in the soundtrack of the 1944 Laurence Olivier film of Henry V, a mighty whirring whizz, enhanced, of course, as part of the Walton soundtrack. In fact, the sound is quite different, even given that there are but 61 bows unleashing their arrows: a slight ping and the clack of the string snapping back into place after the draw and release. The slender arrows fly, flexing up on their lofty parabola into the cloudless blue sky of this glorious spring day. They shimmy and shiver like a bamboothin plant stick, like elvers, all a-quiver on the draughting of the arrows at their butt end. And then they fall, out of the sun, invisible, at terminal velocity to the ground. Such is the force of their drop that they drive several inches into the earth. It is impossible not to connect

Men and women, boys and girls... people of all ages and backgrounds enjoy archery.

that with the effect on a human or equine target. Indeed, one of the male archers is wearing a tee-shirt emblazoned with the names of the famous engagements of the Hundred Years War between England and France in which the longbow played such a dominant role: Crècy, Poitiers and Agincourt. The archers move down the slope towards the mark to retrieve their arrows and for any scoring shots to be marked. Three radiating circles from the mark yield: inner at half a bow’s length from the mark scores 12; middle, three-quarters of a bow length, 7; outer, 1¾ length, 3. The competition runs through the day. At this first mark there’s a bit of goodnatured joshing about scores. The Fraternity is open to all, its sole and driving aim to encourage the practice of the longbow in its ancient tradition. To quote their principle, declared purpose: “You do not have to be a member to join. Archers from all walks of life just turn up, pay their shooting fee and join the event — all thereby become shooting members of the Fraternity. Openness and welcome that originate in the ancient tradition of free association. Freedom to shoot in glorious surroundings.” The origins of the association date back to 1509 when the young King Henry VIII inaugurated annual payments to a small company of archers to be known as the Fraternity of Saint George, with payment due each 23rd April, the saint’s day. By then, the use of the longbow in war was on the way to being superseded by the rather clumsy but powerful new firearms. The last occasion when the longbow played a decisive role is generally reckoned to be in the decisive victory of the

English over the Scots at Flodden in 1513. In 1537, the Fraternity was reconstituted as The Honourable Artillery Company, artillery being a native rendering of the French for “to draw a bow”, “arc tirer”. Some technical background. English yew was not the preferred wood for the longbow, rather the yew grown in Europe. Indeed, during the Hundred Years War, the royal exchequer not uncommonly demanded payment for exports in yew. One of the archers showed me his bow made of Italian yew. The bow is unusual in that the maker has retained the knots in the shaped stave. Some makers will drill out the knots and replace with inset wood. Does this upset the structure of the material or not? As with all niche crafts, opinions differ. Some makers like to keep their secrets “under their hat”. Origin of the phrase? On an approach to battle, archers kept their flax or hemp string under their cap to keep it dry for action. The range of woods formerly used includes wych elm and ash, but the modern makers, for the laminated bow (i.e. a structure combining more than one wood) will use lemonwood, hickory, American yew, osage, which one bowmaker to whom I spoke called “the king of bow woods”. The crucial qualities of a bow must be intrinsic strength, flexibility, and the capacity to withstand the extreme torsion of being drawn to full bend. As James tells me, there is an old saying: “A fully drawn bow is nine-tenths broken”, namely very close to breaking point. And, something not widely known: after around 200 to 400 arrows, a battle bow would have lost its cast — its full efficiency — and been turned into a practice bow or child’s bow.

F THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

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‘THE FRATERNITY OF ST. GEORGE’ (continued)

St. George for England! England is our castle wall and steadfast shield: Fight on, fight on, never yield. See now St. George’s banner fly, Hear now our battle cry: St. George for England! England! Fight on for justice and for right, Fear not the enemy’s might. Our enemy shall know fear This battle cry to hear: St. George for England! England! It took a skilled artisan some 40 hours to make a bow. The training of an archer for place in the battle ranks was a long and continual process, perhaps years. These two factors spelled the end of the bow as a dominant weapon of war. The musket which took its place could be manufactured very quickly in quantity and a man could be trained to fire one in a day. Rate of fire was very slow by comparison and accuracy minimal, but the combined effect of what could now properly be termed “fire power” was damaging if not lethal, the noise bewildering, the acrid fumes of spent powder creating further discomfort for those engaged in the nasty business of war. As a writer said, in 1598: “A vollie of musket…goeth with more terrour…than doth your vollie of arrows.” Some 5,000 to 6,000 English archers were arrayed at Agincourt. Their volleys of arrows — each man was initially supplied with two dozen shafts of bodkin or else bladepointed tips — to a range of around 250-300 yards. It would take a medieval destrier (battle horse) around 28 seconds to cover that distance, allowing the archers to loose four to five arrows at aimed distance. The famous arrow storm probably caused most injury to the horses of the French knights, which were armoured only round the face and chest. The knights themselves, clad in plate armour, will have suffered little because the arrows dropped at an angle and glanced off the metal. But the clattering noise of that storm of arrowheads, dropping at deadly speed out of the sky, must have been terrifying, unsettling and demoralising. We moved across the shallow trough of the valley and up the steeper slope on the far side. Here the archers once more lined up to shoot across the dip at the Lees’ Lion mark. The names of the marks derive, largely, from reference to marks laid out on their practice grounds in Finsburie (Finsbury) Fields to the north of the City of London. One such, Primrose,

The battle’s now won, Our day’s work be done, In song our voices raise, Give this land our praise: St. George for England! England! J. W. PAGETT

recalls the spring flowers which grew in profusion on those fields before the advance of house-building. The poet Geoffrey Chaucer, born three years before Crècy, died 15 years before Agincourt, and wrote in his tales of the pilgrims en route to Canterbury, how spring “bathes every vein of the plants in a sap which engenders the force and virtue of the flower”. We feel and smell it this day. The archers wait. For in solemn show and in memory of one of their number who died earlier in the year, a chosen woman archer unleashes a black arrow towards the mark. There ensues a minute’s silence, broken only by the drone way aloft of a jet airliner. The sound dwindles, there’s a slight freshening of the breeze, and three white arrows fly towards the mark. Rest in peace. The archers take up position to shoot. James talks me through the dynamic of this: feet planted square, shoulder-width apart. The legs must not bend during the effort, the bending is done from the hips. With the arrow nock (open slit) at the end by the fletching fitted to the string — often silk, these days — the arms brace ready to open the bow, as the body tilts down from the waist and the strength of middle back, shoulders and arms combine to produce the force necessary to draw the bow to full. Even as the arrowhead moves to the passing point on the front of the bow, the fingers holding the string at the archer’s lips, chin or upper breast, let it slip. The longer the arms hold the bow open, the more the propulsive force developed by the liberated string diminishes. The action is best done: nock, draw, release. And the same position each time, for consistency of shot and range. I ask James what the optimum angle of release would be. Instantly, he replies: “42.3 degrees.” That precise. It goes along with the sort of intense laboratory testing to which some bow-makers have subjected their bows. We leave the field at lunchtime, buoyed up by the pleasure of amiable company, having been delighted close witness to an ancient mystery, longbow and arrow, and, phew, not a single mention of Robin Hood. GRAHAM FIFE Photographs: PAUL SANDERS

Further Information www.longbow-archers.com Tel: 01227 752375 (evenings only)

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THE IMPORTANCE OF HAPPINESS: Noël Coward and the Actors’ Orphanage

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n April 1934, the most successful living playwright, Noël Coward, became the President of The Actors’ Orphanage and he remained in the position for 22 years. The orphanage took in the children of those in the theatrical profession who couldn’t afford to care for them, or sometimes even want them. It is a lesser-known aspect of Noël’s life and, after meeting and talking to former orphans, the whole saga is unveiled. Under Noël the somewhat Dickensian orphanage, located in Langley, Berkshire, greatly changed. It became fully coeducational, cold baths were ended, food was improved and rooms were decorated. On visits Noël would often bring famous friends like Mary Pickford, Marlene Dietrich or Ivor Novello; hand out Mars bars and play the piano. Some deep-rooted problems did exist, however, and took time to resolve. A report was published in 1936, called “Irregularities and Illegalities”. It revealed that there was a severe abuse of corporal punishment. Noël and his committee of actors took action and certain members of staff were soon “retired”. It transpired that Noël, despite his name being on the stationery, hadn’t officially been made President. This did not point to brilliant administration. Financial records were incomplete, no one had attended meetings and the staff lived in a culture of fear. Noël brought in the lawyers and had the entire organisation straightened out. In June 1937 The Stage newspaper published the transcript of the charity’s AGM held on the stage of Wyndham’s Above: Noël Coward entertaining children at the Silverlands orphanage in 1953. Left: From the left, young residents Judy Staber, Susannah Slater, Liz Eastham and Caroline Baldwin. ACT ACTORS’ CHILDREN’S TRUST

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Theatre. It was a quick, formal meeting, noting that “... everything possible has been done to make the children happy and to see to their health”. The income and accounts were in good order and more money was being spent on staff salaries, food and accommodation. From the transcripts we glean Noël’s authority and effect. At one point, in a way that only Noël could get away with, he proposes, and, as President, seconds a vote to thank himself for chairing the meeting! In 1938 the orphanage moved from Langley to a much grander property at Silverlands in Chertsey. Neo-Georgian in design, it was a 27-room mansion. Soon, however, with the start of the war, Noël started making plans for the children to be evacuated to America. They ended up at the Edwin Gould Foundation in the Bronx, New York City. It was, according to Noël: “Wonderful to the children and I suspect has spoiled them forever.” Jimmy Burke, then aged nine, recalled that he found America more relaxed, with less punishment and that the classes were okay, you just had to adjust to history being taught solely from America’s perspective. And how, after Pearl Harbor, they suddenly had to practise air raids with their hands over their heads in the corridors. In 1945 they returned to Silverlands and the post-war orphans I’ve spoken with all remember it as their home, their family. (Read Judy Staber’s excellent book, Silverlands). Children would be dropped at the gates and left; this experience could be damaging but it also bonded them. Norma Gumley would sit on the front step every visiting Sunday waiting for a mother who would never come. As for Noël, they have only fond memories; Judy Staber: “All I knew was that from time to time this nicely dressed, posh-sounding man came to see us. He would come upon us outside, playing hide-and-seek in and around the

air-raid shelters and would call out, ‘Hello boys and girls. Having a jolly time are you?’” Susannah Slater, whom Noël helped to get a start in show business: “He was wonderful, he really did turn that place around and we’re all very grateful to him.” She added “...he was like a benevolent angel.” Caroline Baldwin had stayed at Noël’s house one weekend in order to attend a premiere and hand the Queen flowers. She did fall over on the curtsy but all this time later said, “Noël did more for me in that one weekend than my Daddy ever did.” Life wasn’t perfect of course, there was another vindictive headmaster for a while, (again fired by Noël), and a degree of bullying. Noël tried to help the really troubled children, including the bullies, such as Peter Collinson, writing in his diary: “He is being torn to pieces by his divorced parents. He is in an emotional turmoil. I promised that I would look after him and be his friend. I honestly don’t think he will transgress again. Actually he practically broke my heart. I may be over-sentimental but a sensitive little boy bereft of all personal affection is to me one of the most pathetic things in the world.” Fast-forward many years and Peter was directing Noël in the 1969 comedy caper film The Italian Job.

Above: Silverlands, in Surrey, was home to the children from 1938 before they were evacuated to America in the war. They returned in 1945. Right: Richard Attenborough, with Noël Coward. He became the charity’s chairman in 1956. ACT ACTORS’ CHILDREN’S TRUST

I know they get a lot of publicity out of it but even so I shouldn’t think from their point of view it was worth all the effort. MAY: It is always possible, my dear Cora, that just one or two of them might do it from sheer kindness of heart. CORA:

Noël did much to improve life for the children in the charity’s care. ACT ACTORS’ CHILDREN’S TRUST

When Noël left England in 1956, Richard Attenborough, (only 33), was asked to take over and Noël’s secretary, Lorn Loraine, had written to him: “You’ll say you’re too young to be President — Noël was only 34 and hadn’t a clue!” Yet Richard didn’t feel prestigious enough so Sir Laurence Olivier became the new President and Richard the Chairman, but, like Noël, Richard was hands on. By 1958 with dwindling numbers and roof repairs needed, Silverlands was closed. The Actors’ Charitable Trust was born and donated money instead. As Richard said: “...it is hoped that we may in the future be able to subsidise some needy children in their own homes and to save families from being split up. This is surely a better way of spending money than upon roof repairs!” Noël’s motives in the end seem pure and simple; take for example this short exchange between May and Cora in Noël’s 1960 play, Waiting in the Wings, regarding the committee of actors that runs The Wings retirement home:

In 1955 Noël had written “The Importance of Happiness” for a fund-raiser programme, it’s almost a last word before he had to relinquish his Presidency. It says of the children: “None of them has a home in the accepted sense of the word and it is this that we try to give them. Somewhere safe and stable where birthdays and Christmases can be looked forward to with excitement and remembered with joy.” After listing his duties as President he continues: “But in my heart what I really mind about, what I have minded about since I became President in 1934, is the happiness of the children who come into the care of this charity.” At a reunion in 2000, organised by Susannah Slater, Lord Attenborough spoke of what The Actors’ Orphanage had meant to him and to Noël. He expressed passionately that when he was thanked for what he did for them, the children, assembled now in late middle age and older, that it was he who should be thanking them: “Love goes both ways and the love that you have shown to us, has brought us joy and reward beyond words.” The charity now exists as the Actors’ Children’s Trust (www.actorschildren.org) and is based in Bloomsbury. ELLIOT JAMES

Special thanks to: Robert Ashby at ACT, Michael Attenborough CBE, Susannah Slater, Judy Staber, Liz Eastham, Ann Hollis, Caroline Baldwin, Jimmy Burke, Granville Bantock and Canon David Slater. Jessica Clark at the Cadbury Research Library — Special Collections, University of Birmingham, L.J. Elliott, Carrie Kruitwagen and Alan Brodie. The author is currently writing a book on Noël Coward and the Actors’ Orphanage.

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all day. The patrol boats were an appropriate escort bearing in mind the presence during the evacuation of many of their predecessors. One of those 1940 boats, MTB 102 (pictured below), is now fully restored and took part in the recent film Dunkirk but was sadly not shown in the final cut. As she was the only naval craft to be present in both 1940 and 2016 one wonders how much the film production team valued the true history of that miraculous event? — HUGH CAMPBELL, LIMPLEY STOKE, BATH, SOMERSET.

Lawrence of Arabia

The Editor is always pleased to receive letters or emails from readers, which must contain the writer’s name and full address, not necessarily for publication, but regrets that he is unable to acknowledge or reply individually to letters received, except by way of occasional comment in these columns. The right is also reserved to abbreviate letters intended for publication, unless correspondents specifically request otherwise.

Please address your letters to “Post Box”, This England, The Lypiatts, Lansdown Road, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire, GL50 2JA. Email: [email protected] Website: www.thisengland.co.uk

Ringing Recollections Sir: What a lovely picture of Beverley Minster on the cover of the Winter 2017 issue, which also featured an article about bell ringing (“Forget-Me-Nots”). I learned to ring at Beverley Minster about 60 years ago and yes, the tower captain was called Fred! Alas, female recruits then were not welcome in many towers, as they are now, and I had to insist that I was serious, putting up with comments, made to my father, that these were “Men’s bells” and I might strain myself so really I ought to give up! I told my father I was not going to give up and that many female ringers rang these bells. I was glad I persevered with this absorbing pastime. Through ringing, I made lots of friends all over the world, met my husband of 48 years, spent many happy holidays visiting churches to ring their bells and taught many

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youngsters and older people to ring. — FRANCES MULVEY, ABBEYDALE, GLOUCESTER.

Dunkirk Memorial Sir: The “Day of Prayer” letter (“Post Box”, Winter 2017) reminded us of the spell of calm weather, which helped to ensure the success of the Dunkirk evacuation, inferring perhaps that Divine intervention had lent a hand after the National Day of Prayer called by the King. Your correspondent might be interested to know that, 17 years later, the Queen Mother sailed across the Channel in HMS Chieftain to open the Dunkirk Memorial dedicated to all those who had died there without a known grave. Escorting the destroyer were four Dark Class boats of the 1st Fast Patrol Boat Squadron. As the black and white picture shows (right), there was calm in the Channel

Sir: I congratulate Steve Roberts on his excellent article on Lawrence of Arabia (Winter 2017). Lawrence was an outstanding personality, and from my boyhood I have been interested in him. An uncle of mine knew him well and worked with him in Palestine. During one of his leaves I asked him for his opinion of Lawrence. He replied: “He was a very fine man,” and said no more. He left mysteries behind, which may never be solved, but he remains a national hero who will never be forgotten. — BRIAN ARUNDEL, SIEGEN, GERMANY.

Sheffield Trams Sir: I enjoyed reading the article on Sheffield trams (Winter 2017). Like the writer I am Sheffield born and bred and remember with fondness the

HMS Chieftain sails across the calm waters of the Channel in 1957 (right) and the restored MTB 102 (below) See “Dunkirk Memorial”.

trams, which were regarded then as the finest in the world. Unlike our modern tramway system they served all areas of the city and it was a fascinating experience to have ridden on them. I remember as a child being lulled to sleep in bed at night by the sound of them trundling past my family home. It was a sad day when they left our streets for ever, but I have visited the Crich Tramway Village and seen some of those “old friends” that were saved from the scrap-yard. It brought back very happy memories. I wrote the following poem about Sheffield’s trams some years ago. Memories of Sheffield Trams Those dear old friends the Sheffield trams Departed from our streets long ago, But will forever be a nostalgic reminder Of the times we used to know. They were always frequent and reliable And were deemed the best in the world, In all kinds of weather they trundled along Gathering speed as the tram-track unfurled. In their livery of cream and blue paintwork Looked after with such pride and care, It seems like only yesterday I climbed aboard, Ran upstairs and paid my penny fare.

A Silver Cross of St. George for a green-fingered great-granny

An infectious smile and clear determination to succeed in difficult circumstances have earned Eunice McGhie-Belgrave widespread recognition in the gardening world and beyond. BIRmINGHAm mAIL

T

here is nothing more disheartening than wanton vandalism caused by rioting but equally nothing more uplifting than an enthusiastic response to rebuilding what has just been destroyed. Following the Handsworth Riots in Birmingham during the Eighties, Eunice McGhie-Belgrave, who worked with young offenders in the probation service until she retired in 1999, decided to respond with something positive. It has long been recognised that disadvantages of living in a barren urban environment can be alleviated by visits to the country so what better idea than to bring the countryside to the town? Eunice set about highlighting the value of allotments and, supported by Birmingham City Council, the Barrow Cadbury Trust and Free Radio, created “Shades of Black” and “Help Signs Allotment” projects. Aimed specifically at Afro-Caribbean women, the aim was to grow vegetables and other plants, leading to the joy of partial self-sufficiency by eating one’s own produce. Local schools were soon happy to involve their children. Imagine the sadness, therefore, when vandals — people who cannot abide others being helpful or successful — damaged the allotments and stole the equipment.

The memories all come flooding back When a ride on a tram was a treat, Of happy trips into town with my mum and dad, Viewing the city from the bay-window seat. I can still see them in my mind so clearly, Rumbling along on their journey’s way, That familiar sound and the flash at the points, Crammed with townsfolk of yesterday.

Now there is modern transport in our city, Supposed to give a much smoother ride, But memories will remain of that bygone age, As we recall Sheffield trams with pride.

—

SUSAN RICHARDSON, SHEFFIELD,

YORKSHIRE.

Fly with Bradshaw’s Sir: “Taking to the Skies with Bradshaw’s” (Autumn 2017) brought back memories

Undaunted, Eunice, now 83 and a great-granny, created a new enterprise in her own back garden where children and others are welcome to come along and join the green-fingered fraternity. Happily, Eunice’s work has not gone unnoticed and in 2002 she received an MBE, followed two years later by the Queen’s Golden Jubilee Award for Voluntary Service. In addition to her gardening she has been involved with improving disabled facilities at her local railway station, sewing groups, helping at the local library, coffee mornings, Christmas dinners for the elderly and many more worthwhile projects. Nicknamed the First Lady of the Allotments, she puts her love of hard work and social conscience down to her upbringing and education in Jamaica when Christian values were instilled into her from a very early age. She has received numerous other awards, including a Pride of Britain sponsored by the Daily Mirror and Trustee Savings Bank, to which we are delighted to add our Silver Cross of St. George. We wish there were more social crusaders like her around because she has brought happiness and hope to many adults CHARLES MEREDITH and children.

Children of all colours take part in Eunice’s unique gardening projects. BIRmINGHAm mAIL

of my home town of Croydon. It was in the mid-1930s, and every day at 4pm my sister Dorothy and I would sit on the doorstep of our house in Davidson Road, waiting for the aeroplane from Paris to fly past on its way to Croydon Aerodrome. The aeroplanes were always biplanes — I don’t think we’d ever seen a plane with only one set of wings — and each biplane had a name: Hercules, Heracles and Hermes, are the names I remember.

Sometimes Mother would make a picnic, and Father would take us all to the aerodrome for the afternoon. The Control Tower and Booking Hall were next to the landing strip, and the area around them was bounded by a tall “diamond wire” fence. As we sat waiting, someone would suddenly shout, “Here she comes!” and we would all rush to the fence. We would gaze in awe at this giant aeroplane as it came gliding in and running along the strip to stop just near to the Booking F THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

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‘POST BOX’ (continued) Hall. And we would watch all the fine ladies and gentlemen, and sometimes children, who would gracefully descend from the plane and walk across to the Hall. It was only a few years later when, during the war, I stood in the garden of our new abode in Addiscombe, near East Croydon, and watched some aircraft of a different silhouette fly in towards the aerodrome. Suddenly strange-shaped things began falling out of them. I called my father, who took one look and almost threw us into the “dug-out” air-raid shelter, saying, “They’re bombs!” There had been no siren sounding the alert. So lax were things just after the beginning of the war, that a few German planes had flown in after a Canadian crew, beginning the first of many raids on Croydon after that. — MARY AKERS, NORTH BALLARAT, VICTORIA, AUSTRALIA.

Church Carving Sir: I wonder if any of your readers can identify this carving (below)? I seem to remember seeing a similar one in an old church in the UK, when I was younger and lived there. I remember reading that it was Anglo-Saxon and it was said to represent the Nativity with two donkeys looking over Mary’s shoulder.

Although I found my small carving in a garden centre in the United States many years ago, I thought that it must have been copied from the carving I saw in the English church. Perhaps someone else has seen it and could tell me if I am correct. — CHRISTINE BORN, WILLIAMSBURG, VIRGINIA, USA.

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Old fishing huts at Selsey in Sussex. A reader has fond memories of childhood visits there. JOHN BLAKE

Selsey Fishermen Sir: “The Fishermen of Selsey” (“In England — Now!”, Autumn 2017), brought back fond memories of family holidays spent there as a child. My grandmother had a holiday cottage on Eastern Beach called “Jolly Nice”. Later in the 1950s, I stayed with her when she lived at “Flint Cottage” in East Street. I spent many happy hours on the shingle beach where the fishermen had their tarry smelling huts, cooking vats and boats winched up beyond high tide. The boats were wooden, clinker-built, with single cylinder diesel engines which puttered off when they put to sea. The fishermen always welcomed a helping hand (or so it seemed!) and they let me help strip the old paint off their boat hulls with a blow-lamp and scraper. Later my grandmother moved to a new cottage on Fisherman’s Walk — there were just paddocks with cows grazing between her cottage and the beach. The fishermen rode their bikes to and from the village along Fisherman’s Walk and their bikes had baskets front and rear often with a dog, usually a spaniel, in one of the baskets and crabs or fish in the other. My Grandmother got to know them and exchanged greetings as they passed or hailed them to see if they had anything for sale. It is good to know that the current generations of fishermen

are carrying on the tradition and that they are going to sea in bigger and safer boats and that the lifeboat is still there to protect all those who put to sea. It is also great to know that delicious Selsey crabs and lobsters will still be on the menu! — DAVID HESSE, PELICAN WATERS, QUEENSLAND, AUSTRALIA.

Wartime Picture Sir: My aunt, Ida McNally, has been a reader of This England for many years. She particularly likes any memories

of the First World War, because her father served in the conflict. Ida remembers her father telling her about a photo that was taken at the old Royal Hospital on Chapel Street, Salford, Lancashire. Her father’s name was Charles Hufton who served in the 15th Battalion Lancashire Fusiliers (1st Salford Pals). Charles fought on the Somme and was wounded by an exploding shell on 22nd April 1917. His friend and fellow fusilier Private Arthur Briggs dragged him into a shell hole. Moments later Arthur was also hit by shrapnel and sadly died from his wounds. Clearly both men would have died as a result of the second shell explosion, but for Arthur’s selfless act of dragging the wounded Charles into that shell hole. To our family, Arthur is one of the unsung heroes of the First World War. Charles spent time at the St. Quentin field hospital before being sent back to Blighty sometime between April and November 1917. Back in England Charles was in the Dixon Mann ward of the now closed Salford Royal Hospital. During his time there, Charles and another wounded soldier were introduced to King George V and a photo was taken of them shaking hands. We have tried to find a copy of the photo, but so far without success. All we know is that a copy was once on display in the now demolished Seven Stars pub in

The Imperial War Museum North at Salford Quays. A wartime photograph taken in the area is of interest to a reader. See letter this page. mIKE O’BRIEN

This is the cottage that stands by the castle, Carefully built beside old Roman walls. Spirits of Normans on grey charging horses Ride silently past — and still the rain falls.

Withy Grove, Manchester. It would be lovely for my elderly aunt to see the photo and any help from readers would be wonderful. — STEVE WILSON, SALFORD, MANCHESTER. EMAIL:

[email protected] .

Raindrops, like tears, on the bright yellow pumpkins That grow in this garden down by the gate, Wet leaves that lend shelter to little brown sparrows, Stop searching for cake crumbs, they patiently wait.

Tea Time Poem Sir: My late mum had a fair few poems published over the years, and my son (her grandson) seems to be following in her footsteps. Mum particularly loved England and her poem “Rain on the Tea Garden” is very precious to our family. One of Mum and Dad’s favourite haunts was the lovely tea garden attached to Pevensey Castle in Sussex. Of course, my dear Mum was inspired to write this beautiful poem, which is framed alongside a picture and now proudly hangs at the Castle Tea Rooms.

F

Historic Pevensey Castle, Sussex, with its pretty tea gardens, provided poetic inspiration for a reader’s mother. See letter this page. DAVID SELLmAN Rain On the Tea Garden by Jeanne K. Pitcher Furled are the sunshades over the tables,

No pretty china set for tea, Pink serviettes so familiar are absent, Rainwater dripping from every tree.

Ours are the footsteps, ours and no others, That sound on the red brick path to the door, And inside, hot tea, soft music and flowers, We look for new sunbeams on the Castle Cottage floor.

—

JULEY ROSS, BEXHILL-ON-SEA,

SUSSEX.

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This England’s Finest Tea Rooms

or the magazine that was launched under the slogan as We received a recommendation — and a delightful story — from “Refreshing as a pot of tea,” we continue our search for Cornelia and Hubert Simon in Memmingen, Germany. Cornelia favourite English tea rooms — right across the world — as writes: “I met my German husband on holiday in south Germany recommended by you, our discerning readers. over 40 years ago — and officially never returned to England. But, We start off in the heart of the country with The Vintage Tea instead of losing a Brit, England has gained an enthusiastic fan Emporium, 38 Market Place, Uttoxeter, Staffordshire. It has in my husband, be it in the countryside, towns and villages, the been nominated by Michael and Christine Lomax who tell us: people, the cafes ... he’s even more of a tea drinker than I am!” “Whilst on our travels we always look for a traditional tea room to Their favourite tea-time destination is Coastguards Tea Rooms, enjoy a break in the journey.” Fortunately, Coastguard Lane, Fairlight, East though, they didn’t have to venture Sussex which they first discovered 14 too far to find this one which is close to years ago. These long-time customers where they live. highlight the tasty breakfasts, The Vintage Tea Emporium is, they say, home-cooked lunches, cream teas, “a wonderful example of an old English sandwiches and “...a large selection of tea room. The proprietor serves other delicious home-made cakes”, which snacks as well as the very traditional are served by “friendly, charming afternoon tea and sources as much waitresses”. produce as possible locally. The attention It is ideal for dog walkers too as to detail as well as good quality and good four-legged friends are allowed inside service is clear to see.” and in the courtyard. As Cornelia and This sounds like a winning combination Welcoming staff await customers at the Hubert point out: “What more could to us, so one of our certificates will be we want after an enjoyable, bracing Prinknash Abbey Cafe in Gloucestershire. winging its way to Uttoxeter. hike with Pepper, our Jack Russell, Our next well-deserved winner is to be found in This England’s along the Fairlight cliffs overlooking the English Channel!” home county of Gloucestershire. John and Helen Thorn of Upton Describing it as their “first and last stop when visiting Britland,” St. Leonards, have contacted us to sing the praises of Prinknash they say they have “never found an all-round comparison. The Abbey Cafe, near Gloucester, which is situated on the beautiful Coastguards is the best!” Cotswold escarpment with splendid views over the Severn Vale. High praise indeed from two devoted customers for whom An excellent menu is on offer ranging from breakfasts to lunches distance is no object. and afternoon teas. They tell us: “One can select to have a light To our trio of winners we offer our lunch/snack or a more substantial meal, such as the excellent congratulations and your certificates are on steak and ale pie which we recently sampled. The food is all their way for you to display in your awardcooked to order, well presented and tasty, and is served by a winning establishments. friendly and helpful staff.” If you have a favourite tea room that With such a mouth-watering menu it is no surprise that the you would like to nominate for our award cafe, which appeals to visitors of all ages, gets very busy on then send details to: This England’s Finest a Saturday lunchtime. There is also outdoor seating, which is Tea Rooms, The Lypiatts, Lansdown Road, perfect for those sunny days, and many walkers use the venue Cheltenham, Gloucestershire GL50 2JA, or because of its proximity to the Cotswold Way. email: [email protected] .

THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

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‘POST BOX’ (continued)

This England’s New Festival of Britain! I

n the autumn 2017 issue, the Editor’s Letter recalled the 1951 Festival of Britain and suggested that, as the UK prepares to leave the EU, perhaps we should consider calling for a new Festival celebrating all that the UK has to offer. Since publication, we have been inundated by your responses, so thank you to everyone who has replied. We include a few snippets from some your letters and emails below. Keep watching this space and the Blog section of our website (www.thisengland.co.uk) for more news. You can also register your online support at www.thisengland.co.uk/festival . We share your optimism for the future of Great Britain and think the Festival would be a wonderful idea to encourage the less hopeful to feel the same way. I will be trying to get my friends involved, the ones who are not already subscribers to your fantastic magazine. The very best of luck with your venture, you have our complete support. — BARRY & JACKIE PENNEY, BY EMAIL.

You ask if people are interested in a festival to celebrate the UK. The answer from us is “Yes!” Having been born in 1948 and 1950 we remember the time before joining the EU and are delighted that the UK is leaving. We do hope This England will be successful in organising a Festival, it will be an excuse for us to visit the UK! — JOHN & ALEXANDRA LOWE, SOUTH AFRICA.

I have been getting your beautiful magazine for a long time now, and your idea of the Festival is brilliant! I fully support this lovely idea. — ANNE PRAGNELL, AUSTRALIA.

With great interest I support your campaign about organising a Festival. The large exhibition that took place in Milan a few years ago (the Expo) attracted many visitors and was a success. — MARCO MILESI, ITALY.

LLOYD, SWITZERLAND.

My wife and I think that your suggestion for a Festival is an excellent idea. We have already given copies of your article to several of our friends and neighbours and will continue to push it locally. — PETER SIMMONDS, NORTHAMPTONSHIRE.

I would like to add my support for your idea of a Festival. It sounds terrific, especially if held away from London. Somewhere near the geographical centre of the UK would be good, further north than Birmingham to allow for those in Scotland to attend with ease, and also nearer the ferry ports from Northern Ireland. I wish you every success with the idea. Long may This England and Evergreen flourish! — MRS. LYNN NUDD, SHROPSHIRE. I think it a splendid idea to have a Festival of the United Kingdom when we regain our sovereignty. Good luck with the scheme. — ALEXANDER S. MARTIN, BY EMAIL.

I would like to show my support for for another Festival. Having spent the first 40 years of my life in Wembley, Middlesex, surviving the Blitz etc., l will be extremely happy to see Britain freed from the chains of the EU. My husband and l then moved to Kent, the garden of England, and then 35 years ago to Canada, so we take much pleasure in receiving This England. May you long continue with your good work and I wish you every success in getting support for this new venture. — PEGGIE DRAPER, BY EMAIL.

I am not old enough to remember the Festival of Britain, as I was born in 1954. However, I remember my late father fondly recalling it and saying how much it had helped boost morale in post-war Britain. Both my wife and I fully support your proposal and have no hesitation in writing to support the venture. We trust the opportunity will also be taken to extol the virtues of the younger generation and provide a showcase for the work that youth organisations are doing in the country. — LIZ & ADRIAN HARRIS,

Yes! Let’s have another Festival of Britain — I might get to see it this time! In 1951 I was in the Women’s Royal Army Corps, stationed in Hounslow, a stone’s throw away from the Tube station, which took us right through to central London. A colleague who had been in basic training with me at Guildford — a Scots girl named Betty English — expressed a desire to see the Festival, so off we went. I knew London pretty well, but we just could not find the Festival Gardens (Battersea Park). Walking over Westminster Bridge, I spotted a bobby and asked him for directions. “Sorry, lass,” he said, “I’m just here on traffic duty for the day, from my town force.” I looked at his badge and saw Luton Borough Police Force. Of all the coppers in London that day I had picked one from my home town! We all laughed about it and had a companionable cuppa in the police office. Betty and I never did get to the Festival, but we still had a good time. Who knows, if we do have another Festival, I might make it! — MRS. MADGE EVANS, HAMPSHIRE.

MIDDLESEX.

Your Festival is such an excellent idea and I sincerely hope that it will materialise. —

I wish to add my vote — and my husband’s — to the idea of holding another Festival of Britain sooner rather than later and perhaps you might consider including the Armed Forces who do such a fantastic job in keeping us safe for very little reward. Having done their duty and carried out instructions from the War Office, they now find that many of them are being investigated for War Crimes. I remember, as a child, being taken by my parents to the original Festival site on the Embankment and looking at all the exhibits especially a huge aircraft that was displayed on a plinth. Wishing you much success. — ANN HAMLET, (Founder of

I was so pleased to read your suggestion of a Festival. I think you say what many people like myself think and we are glad for someone to speak out. From such beginnings of ideas the momentum can gather and, once it does, build into a Festival for the people of Britain to be proud of. We know it’s possible — we have done it before. —

I wholeheartedly endorse your Festival proposal. My wife and I had been married for a year when we visited the original Festival of Britain and what a wonderful and enjoyable experience it was joining thousands of other visitors. I served in the Royal Navy from 1943 to 1946, to protect our freedom as I understood it. Many died, including my brother, to liberate those countries who are dictating to us and for that reason I voted for Brexit. I am old enough to remember the time when we were happy to be on our own. All good wishes for the campaign. —

ROSEMARY WHEELER, CAMBRIDGE.

the Italy Star Memorial Fund), BY EMAIL.

MRS. PAMELA ELMSLIE, SURREY.

CHARLES ROPER MEDHURST, LONDON.

I share your enthusiasm at the prospect of a new Festival. Without doubt Britain has been great in the past and, together with America, has had a tremendous influence on the rest of the world. But sadly people in general have forgotten (or never knew or understood) where this “greatness” came from. Because of this the majority are probably unaware that the “greatness” is gradually disappearing. — CHRIS BARNES, QUEENSLAND, AUSTRALIA.

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I congratulate you on a brilliant idea and offer you my wholehearted support on bringing it to fruition. — CYNTHIA

THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

What a wonderful idea! I do hope your Festival comes to fruition. We have lost our pride in our country; it’s great to see someone so motivated. I’ve just received my first copy of This England and I am loving it! — DI GEORGE, CHESHIRE.

DAWKIN (née VINCENT), DANVILLE, CALIFORNIA, USA.

English Personalities Sir: The “English Personalities” letter (“Post Box”, Autumn 2017) brought back memories for me; at the dinner table on Sunday and of sitting round the fire in the evening with the wireless for company! How about the following for celebrities “summing up England”? Arthur Askey, Charlie Chester, Cyril Fletcher, Tommy Handley, Will Hay, Arthur Haynes, Kenneth Horne, Frankie Howerd, Max Miller, Richard Murdoch, Vic Oliver, Tessie O’Shea, Al Read, Derek Roy, Anne Shelton, Max Wall, Robb Wilton — I could go on! I think I remember Howerd and Derek Roy alternating as top-of-the-bill artists in Variety Bandbox on Sunday night. Furthermore, what about band leaders of the period including Stanley Black, Carroll Gibbons, Henry Hall, and Joe Loss? When I was a boy, my cousin who lived in the heart of London took me to the BBC Studios for a performance of Henry Hall’s Guest Night where

REDDITCH, WORCESTERSHIRE.

Wartime Verse Sir: My father John Eyre is 93 and remembers his stepfather singing the following rhyme to him in the mid-1930s: Away down communication trenches In the middle of the whizz bang line I’ve got got a nice little sandbag villla Where the Krupps and the Johnsons Are very close to a sniper’s post Where the aerial torpedoes visit us most A charge we will give them, machine gun too Away down the whizz bang line.

EASTBOURNE PIER: A STORY OF SURVIVAL Constructed in 1872, during its long history this creator of happy holiday memories for generations of visitors to the Sussex resort has suffered fire, storm and damage from a wartime mine. Now fully refurbished, it is once again open for business. THE CIRCUS KING We have all heard of Billy Smart, Chipperfields and Bertram Mills, but it was Philip Astley, a native of Newcastle-under-Lyme in Staffordshire, who, 250 years ago, presented the very first entertainment involving horses, acrobats, trained animals and clowns.

We assume that it originated in the trenches during the First World War, but do your readers have any more information regarding its origins? — SHEILA GREEN, GREAT COATES, GRIMSBY,

DORSET SUMMER GARDENS On a sunny day in June a coach-load of keen gardeners set off on an enjoyable and enlightening tour of the county’s horticultural highlights. We join them on their journey.

LINCOLNSHIRE.

Chain Measurements Sir: Referring to John Husband’s interesting article “The Roads of Old England” (Summer 2017) what particularly took my eye was the reference to Dr. William Warren surveying by using a 66-foot-long chain. This measurement is still used today, i.e. 66 feet (22 yards) is one chain, 10 chains (220 yards) one furlong and 8 furlongs (80 chains) equals one mile. Rail distances always have, and still are, measured in miles and so many chains and, of course, cricket pitches are 22 yards (one chain) in length. — MEL BARNES, SANDOWN, ISLE OF WIGHT, HAMPSHIRE.

Ypres Bells Sir: You very kindly published a news item about the new ring of eight bells at St. George’s Memorial Church, Ypres, (“Cornucopia”, Spring 2017). As a result of this we received quite a few donations from your readers who may be interested to know that the project has been completed and the first official service the bells were rung for was on Armistice Day last year. — IAN G. CAMPBELL, WIMBLEDON, LONDON.

THE ROYAL PARKS OF LONDON Originally owned by the monarchy, there are eight in all: havens of peace, places for exercise and recreation, and keepers of English history and heritage among the lakes, trees and pathways.

GRAHAm GOUGH

Sir: The “Splendid Surrey” letter (“Post Box”, Autumn 2017) prompted me to write. I was born in Carshalton near the old St. Helier’s Hospital many, many moons ago so I know Carshalton Ponds very well and have often visited the little museum there. When I met my husband-to-be and his pals, we used to have a pub crawl on Friday or Saturday nights from The Greyhound, through the lovely old churchyard next door, to the next watering hole, The Coach and Horses. There were several other pubs on that stretch of narrow road going all the way along to Wallington Green to the Duke’s Head. In those days my sherries would cost 2/- each and the men would be drinking beer for 10d and, as you can imagine, I was not very popular because of my expensive taste! There was also a young lady in our group called Ann (sorry, I can’t remember her last name now after 60 years), but she and I remained friends when we moved to Lewes, Sussex, as her boyfriend was my husband’s best friend. Sadly, when we moved to California, we lost touch completely. Ann, if you read this, please get in touch via the editorial office. — JANE

Coming in the Summer 2018 issue of THIS ENGLAND

an, at that time, unknown Al Read was on the bill — “That’s the wife from the kitchen” was, I seem to remember, one of his catchphrases. — BRIAN REDMAN,

The South Devon coast viewed from Hallsands.

Surrey Memories

’PER ARDUA AD ASTRA’ Translated as “Through adversity to the stars”, during its glorious 100-year history, in war and peace, the RAF has more than lived up to its motto. We celebrate its centenary and highlight some of the events that are planned for 2018. CENTENARY OF THE FIRST WORLD WAR The execution of merchant seaman Captain Charles Fryatt in 1916 caused outrage in England and widespread condemnation of Germany and the Kaiser. We pay tribute to a true English hero. THE PLEASURES OF THE PERFECT PICNIC! Summer is the season to pack up the hamper and enjoy an open-air feast. From sandwiches to Scotch eggs and lemonade to champagne we celebrate the tradition of the English picnic across the centuries. Plus...regular features including Post Box, London Pride, Notes from a Cottage Garden, A Royal History of England, Cornucopia, etc.

Publication date: 9th May ORDER YOUR SUBSCRIPTION NOW. See page 98

THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

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nly the circle left! Move along unless you want a ticket!” And the commissionaire waved us either in, if we were lucky, or away if we couldn’t afford the, to us, huge price of a seat in the best part of the cinema. We would creep away, disappointed, and vow to catch an earlier bus and be there in good time next Saturday. In our smallish town (Wakefield) there were several cinemas to choose from, all reflecting an age of glory, prosperity and enjoyment: the Regal, the Essoldo, the Grand Electric. Even the outskirts of town might boast a small picture-house; ours was the Palace Super Cinema, known to everyone as the Spit, and that gives you an idea of the quality of the place. It closed down not long after the war and for years afterwards my parents still fancied they were itching from the fleas that, according to local legend, considered it home. “Fancy coming to ABC Minors?” my friend asked me one Friday after school. I’d never heard of this — something to do with the collieries that surrounded us in the West Riding? A quick check with Mum, a brief lesson on homonyms and I was set to go to Saturday Morning

Pictures: sixpence downstairs, ninepence upstairs. We went downstairs and saved our threepence for a bag of chips to eat on the way home. The packed cinema whooped and galloped with Roy Rogers, giggled at Old Mother Riley (who, intriguingly, was actually a man) and sat on the edge of our seats at the closing, cliff-hanging episodes of serials like

A Bootlace of Ticket Stubs Flash Gordon and Rin Tin Tin; we were then encouraged to go back for next week’s instalment. During the interval a spotlight would roam around the audience and whoever it picked out when it stopped won a free seat next time. Intoxicated with shouting encouragement at cowboy/Indian chases, guns firing at every possible target, and incredible feats of derring-do, we’d re-enter the real world two hours later, Roy Rogers and Trigger with Lynne Roberts in The Kid Returns (1938), Old Mother Riley (Arthur Lucan) and Kitty McShane, and an ABC Minors badge.

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blinking into the sunlight after a singsong and a rousing chorus that ended “We’re all pals together…we’re the Minors of the A-B-C!” Queues were common when a big film came to town and it always seemed to be raining as you waited in a snaking line round the corner from the cinema and tried to avoid people rushing past on the pavement. Once in the foyer, what impressed was the velvety fitted carpet (most of our houses had lino and rugs) and polished brass banisters on the stairs going to the circle. Huge, moody, black and white photographs of past and present stars lined the walls: Doris Day, Rita Hayworth, Clark Gable, David Niven and, sure enough, Roy Rogers and his heroic horse, Trigger. There was a smell of perfume and dust. You paid the ticket-man in his glass-fronted booth and moved inside to the auditorium, first relinquishing half of your ticket to the usherette who threaded it onto an old bootlace. This seemed a fairly universal practice — but why? Another usherette with a formidable torch showed you to a seat — not booked in advance but for a popular film, anywhere that you could fit in. Seats were scratchy moquette, floors uncarpeted unlike the sumptuous foyer. Cigarette smoke was everywhere because cinemas were all-smoking in those days. It would writhe its way to

PHILLD

Opened in 1935 as the Regal Cinema, the ABC in Wakefield’s Kirkgate closed in 1997 and has been derelict ever since.

the ceiling of the auditorium through the projectionist’s light, adding an extra frisson to a black and white mystery film. The programme was continuous, unlike today, when everyone leaves and the next batch of punters comes in. You could sit there all day if you wanted. If you were late getting in, you watched through until a familiar bit, then whispered “This is where we came in”, gathered up coats and shuffled past others on the row. A ticket gave good value for money: the main picture, a B picture (usually quite ancient), a cartoon which we always hoped might be Tom and Jerry, the “coming shortlys”, the newsreel heralded by a crowing cockerel and the Pearl and Dean advertisements. After the main picture usherettes moved down the aisles with their trays of ice creams and lollies. There was popcorn, but not buckets of the stuff, just little boxes. I suppose most of us dreamt of being a cinema usherette; you could lean on the bar at the back and watch films all day. And they all wore maroon uniforms, it seemed. Film-going played a different role once adolescence was reached and young people started “going out”. “Going to the pictures” was many people’s first proper “date”. The dark intimacy of the cinema provided an accepted venue for teenage (and notso-teenage) romance. In the strait-laced 1950s and early ’60s it was one of the few places where people could go and get on with what was generally termed their “courting” — a decorous term to describe a lot of the activity that went on, if the usherettes were to be believed. When things got steamy, they would shine their torches pointedly at the offending lovers — a recognised signal for them to calm down a bit. The back two rows were where couples went; a neighbouring town’s

cinema boasted double seats — such unaccustomed luxury, and at a premium on a Saturday night. After the last showing came a grainy shot of the Queen on a horse, saluting at the Trooping the Colour, and the National Anthem played creakily as people tried their best to exit without seeming disrespectful — the trick was to have everything ready as the final credits or “The End” came up, then race madly for the doors. If you missed your chance it would be a case of half-standing, half-crouching until the music had finished and you had done your patriotic duty. Now we are herded into viewing areas about as exciting as a doctor’s waiting room, many people carrying the equivalent of a three-course meal to sustain them through the programme. The seats, however, are supremely comfortable — none of the scratchy moquette of yesteryear, and few places would be nicknamed fleapits today. Maybe the camaraderie of the ABC Minors has disappeared and they don’t make you sing a song at the end, but catch a good film and there are still shrieks, gasps and giggles as the plot unfolds. When Colin Firth, as George VI in The King’s Speech, battled through his final ordeal of the film, you could feel the audience holding its collective breath, and when the end was reached applause echoed around the auditorium. Shades of days gone by when Roy Rogers and Trigger had at last routed those baddies and we knew that the world was safe, at least until next Saturday,

as we tucked into hot chips with salt and vinegar soaking the newspaper and licked greasy fingers as we walked towards the bus stop. JAN CLARK More ‘FORGET-ME-NOTS’ overleaf

England, My England England, Oh, my England, I’m coming back to you. I’ll see you in the springtime. Watch For me! I’ll dance Down memory’s lane, And dream of days gone by. And then I’ll pick some buttercups For you. I’ll skip Through mossy woods, Watch little lambs at play, And listen to the nightingales And larks. I’ll walk Along the shore And watch the tide roll in And listen to the seagull’s cry With you. So put The kettle on, And wait beside the fire, And we will share a pot of tea Once more. DOROTHY COE THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

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‘FORGET-ME-NOTS’ (continued)

TEACHERS IN TRAINING abc

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y modest-size, all-girls comprehensive that I attended in the Sixties sent a small handful of pupils to university (most of the would-be nurses had left after their O’ Levels) but me and most of the rest of my classmates were aiming at what were still popularly called Teacher Training Colleges. So it was that, in September 1966, a couple of months after leaving school, I arrived for the first of my four years at the Bishop Lonsdale College of Education in Derby. The college was on two sites. Down near the town centre were the old buildings: a redbrick mock Jacobean structure which proclaimed in letters of stone across its frontage, “To the Glory of God: A diocesan institution for training school mistresses”. This annoyed the men, but we girls thought it was hilarious. This housed some of the college departments, the chapel, the Students’ Union offices and provided accommodation for some of the men. Daffodils beside Derby Cathedral.

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Out the back was another high building, once a gymnasium but now the refectory with the art studio in the attic and a lovely garden which came as a real surprise in its inner-city surroundings. Many of the nearby houses had been converted for student occupation and half a mile up the hill was Lonsdale Hall, the largest hall of residence for women. Meanwhile, at the beginning of the Sixties the New College had been built out at Mickleover on the edge of the countryside. This contained the rest of the departments, the administration, the main hall, a large double gym, all the sports facilities and another large female hall of residence. As the council planned to build a new bypass, the college had taken out short leases on a number of biggish houses due for demolition along the main road and this was where more of the men lived. As a result we spent a lot of our time waiting for buses between the two sites. Bicycles were encouraged, but although it was a joy to freewheel down from Mickleover at the end of the day, it took a lot of hard pedalling to get there in the first place. It was a Church of England college, but oddly enough in many ways it was far more easy-going and up-to-date than some of my friends found at their local authority run establishments as the original rules had been overhauled at the time of the move to new buildings. We still had to sign in during the evenings and there was a 10.30 curfew for those under 21 although these requirements were abolished by the time I was in my third year. Most of the new students lived in the halls of residence under the jurisdiction of matron housekeepers. These ladies could be very fierce when

it came to tidiness and cleanliness and so on and were in the habit of leaving little admonishing notes sellotaped to washbasins, but in a crisis they showed that they had hearts of gold. There were some twin rooms but most students had their own private quarters with washbasins; it was very comfortable and all our meals were provided. As for what we were really there for, our studies fell into several distinct sections. First there was our main subject. I had toyed with doing English but in the end went in for my real love, history. This was what I hoped to teach in schools, but we were told that these studies were primarily for our own intellectual development. Then there were the curriculum courses: short series of lectures and some practical activities on some of the other things we would come across or be expected to teach.

Angela on her last day at college, July 1970.

Naturally some subjects were more interesting than others and later became more useful. I particularly enjoyed the art and maths, while games and gym came a long way down my list. Most important of all was education: the theory and practice of teaching. Although psychology played an important part in this and we learned the history of education, most of our time was devoted to sociology which was one of the fashionable studies of the Sixties. It had its uses and considerable bearing on our future work, but much of it and its accompanying politics are completely out-of-date now. The National Curriculum was 20 years in the future so we didn’t have to spend any time learning its requirements. Most of our lectures were in groups according to the ages we hoped to teach, but once a week there was a mass lecture when an entire year of students

were gathered together in the main hall to receive a handful of xeroxed notes and to listen to a member of the education department. Everybody hated these sessions; it was not the best learning experience and doodling and whispering were commonplace with some people even falling asleep. I doubt if the lecturers were entirely happy, either. Some of them looked as if they could have done with a stiff drink beforehand, and probably afterwards too. They were a mixed bunch but mainly knew what they were talking about. Most of them were battle-scarred former teachers, but there were one or two more exotic blooms, among them Geoffrey Elton, later a Conservative politician, and Russell Harty, the television personality of the Seventies. Besides all this, the culmination of each year’s work was the Teaching Practice where we put our studies into operation. It was frightening, and many students got into a state beforehand, but at the same time it was exhilarating — being let out into the big wide world to try our hands. Great efforts were made to ensure that we went to as wide a variety of schools as possible. The head of the education department admitted that he was prepared to phone up headteachers personally — the ones he knew by their Christian names — to get students into suitable places. As our practice area was spread over three counties and two large towns, some people found themselves getting up at the crack of dawn to face a long journey by hired coach or minibus, but I was very lucky as none of my schools were more than a few miles away. It was the second year which was make or break. A number of students dissolved in tears when something happened to upset their carefully laid out planning but my worst experience

was when a dog appeared outside my large unscreened picture window and jumped into the ornamental fountain in the middle of the garden there. The effect on the class that was supposed to be doing RE can be imagined! It was by no means all work. There was a wide variety of sporting activities available for those that way inclined, although the women’s tended to be monopolised by the PE Wing, an almost separate section of the college devoted to training female games teachers, a species I had suffered from enough at school. They were mostly big, strong, athletic girls and the rest of us did tend to take the mickey out of them, especially when they were running around the campus waving lacrosse sticks. There were also many opportunities for music. I remember Dido and Aeneas and Trial by Jury in my first term, but my chief interests, then as now, were dramatic and literary. Apart from pantomime appearances I distinguished myself as a messenger in “The Scottish Play” and prompter for Twelfth Night which was played in the round so I had a ringside seat for every performance. Derby was not a very prepossessing town in those days, but a few miles north it was a very different story and I enjoyed trips to Dovedale, Melbourne, Haddon Hall, Chatsworth and Dethick among other places, and twice managed to get to the Well Dressing at Tissington on Ascension Day. As well as this we were all eager dressmakers and the hall sewing machines were constantly busy. It was a very inward-looking way of life. In-college dances were held nearly every weekend, the student bar was situated underneath the chapel and there was a popular film society. In the common rooms there were televisions and newspapers, but most of us preferred radio with our little trannies

Well Dressing at Tissington.

JACQUI CORDINGLEY

invariably tuned to Radio Caroline. The town’s cinemas were well patronised, but otherwise there was almost no need to leave the campus for entertainment. Politics were confined to a bit of noise but no action, except for the tiny but vociferous bunch of Young Liberals. Looking back, although there was a wild element among us, most of the students were very serious and sedate. Nowadays there are no Colleges of Education. They were done away with in the Eighties, merged with other institutions to become university departments. We often complained about being surrounded almost exclusively by future teachers and ex-teachers, but we knew that they all knew the conditions we would work under and the problems we would meet. And there was not one of our lecturers who would not try to move heaven and earth to get a student through a difficult teaching practice or to help with personal problems. And I have never forgotten the final piece of advice we were given: “Whatever you do in school,” said my tutor, a hardy veteran of Nottingham Secondary Moderns, “Never, ever, upset the caretaker.” I have always been careful never to do so. ANGELA CONYERS

Trips to Dovedale provided an escape from the college campus. JOHN HUSBAND

THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

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In England — NOW! Celebrating English achievement, enterprise and creativity in the 21st century

The Oldest Family Business in Britain

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t first glance you might be mistaken for thinking that R. J. Balson, a traditional butchers in the pretty town of Bridport, Dorset, is like any other independent business in Britain today. Nothing could be further from the truth. This is Britain’s oldest family business and was founded over 500 years ago in 1515 during the reign of Henry VIII. It has survived the Reformation, English Civil War, bubonic plague, 23 monarchs, the Industrial Revolution, 47 recessions, two world wars and the relentless onslaught of the supermarkets. The current proprietor (pictured above) is Richard Balson, Master Butcher, who is the 26th generation to serve in the business. “It puts everything into perspective and seems quite remarkable when you consider 30 per cent of all family businesses only survive into the second generation,” Richard tells me. “Of these only 12 per cent will survive into the third generation with only three per cent of all family businesses going on to a fourth generation.” R. J. Balson & Sons are a member of the Tercentenarian Club, a unique group with barely a dozen members each of which has been in existence for at least

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300 years. They include Fortnum & Mason and other businesses such as a wine merchant, a hat maker, a ribbon manufacturer, a builder and a boatyard owner, but the oldest still remains the Bridport butchers. Sadly, one prominent member, Whitechapel Bell Foundry founded in 1570 (famous for casting Big Ben’s bell), recently closed. Nothing, it seems, remains everlasting in this ever changing world. Robert Balson first set up his business about a mile away from where the present shop stands in Bridport. An ancient document (the Shambles Licence) dated September 1515 grants one Robert Balson the right to operate two shambles (blocks) in return for “five

shillings of legal money to be paid at the feasts of Easter and St. Michael the Archangel”. In those days there were no shops, just stalls on the Shambles — an openair market where livestock was traded and butchered. For almost 365 years the butchers moved between the town hall, pubs and markets before they settled into their present shop to the west of the town. The family has occupied the current premises since 1892. Richard started work there when he left school in 1974: “I was born into it and living above the shop in those days it was in the blood.” He worked with his father Master Butcher Donald Balson who started in the firm in 1938 and always maintained that his first task every day as a young lad was to go into the fields to catch the horse before the day’s deliveries could begin. Richard on the other hand remembers that by the time he joined the firm the horse and cart had gone and his first job each day involved pumping up the tyres of the trade bicycle before deliveries were made. After 73 years’ service to the business, interrupted only by a stint in H. M. Navy, Richard’s father sadly passed away in 2011. The business still remains very Changing scenes and ways of delivery from the shop’s much a family affair. A typical long history.

day starts at 6.30am when the shop is opened up. The covers are removed from the counters and the signs placed outside. Everything is switched on, the answerphone is checked for orders often from restaurants and hotels. These orders are completed and taken by the delivery girl early each morning. All sausages or faggots are made to traditional secret recipes in the shop each day. Deliveries come in any time from 8.30am onwards and customers start to filter in just before nine. It’s a long day even though it finishes at 4pm. Richard works with his brother-inlaw Rudi Boulay (pictured right) who is married to his sister Jane. Rudi is a big asset and makes all the award-winning sausages from a recipe that has been handed down since Tudor times. A consignment was actually on board the Mary Rose before she sank in the Solent in 1545. Richard’s wife Allison and his sister Jane also work in the business a few mornings a week. Fortunately deliveries are now done by van today. “Life is certainly easier now,” Richard tells me. “Imagine years ago going up a farm track on a horse and cart with all the winds and weather against you on a bitterly cold day.” I want to know why the business has continued to survive. From the early 1990s to the mid-2000s, butcher numbers tumbled from 15,000 to around 6,000, a drop of 60 per cent according to the Meat Trades Journal, though in more recent years it has stabilised. Success has come through selling good quality local free-range meat and by providing a good personal service and an enjoyable shopping experience. “We make people feel wanted and welcome,” he says. Richard takes a real interest in the customers and knows many by name, just as his father and grandfather did before him. “People like that interaction, it’s something they don’t get in the supermarket.” Many of his customers regard him as a friend. Although Richard, dressed in his straw boater and striped apron, is keen to maintain all the traditions of a family business, he’s also very aware of the changing times: “You have to diversify and offer exciting new products as shopping trends have changed.” Today they sell over 20 varieties of sausages such as venison, wild boar, pork and leek, duck and orange and chicken etc. The demand has changed and less fashionable cuts such as belly pork, ox

cheeks and oxtail have made a return. Customers are also demanding exotic meats such as kangaroo, elk, bison, ostrich and even zebra. Richard has diversified to meet these changing tastes and market forces. Lifestyles have also played a part. “Years ago the wife stayed at home, the man went out to work and she prepared the meal and looked after the house and brought up the children. She put the meal on the table and took the children to school.” Nowadays both partners work and instead of selling big joints of meat, Richard finds he is selling smaller cuts

which are more versatile and can be cooked in 20 minutes. He butchers in the same traditional way but removes far more of the fat nowadays to match the customers’ needs. “With such busy lives, no one wants to spend half a day behind the stove,” he tells me. Richard is also keen to provide a range of products that match every pocket: “Not everyone can afford to eat fillet steak every day.” They sell many faggots, ham hocks and specialist sausages which are quick, inexpensive meals. In 2015 the business celebrated its quincentenary. Over 300 people attended the 500th party in the town hall which is built over the site of the old shambles. The party was a great success and had two positive effects in raising £5,000 for Cancer Research UK and giving Richard the impetus to write a book called 500 Years Behind the Block. Not only does his book recount history, memories and the experience of working nearly 40 years with his father, but it also contains many interesting stories about

the Balson family, some of whom weren’t butchers in the past. Leading Seaman Albert Balson, a cousin from Allington near Bridport, served on Captain R. F. Scott’s British National Antarctic Expedition (1910-13) and survived. He had an eventful war, gaining the DSM. After the war he helped to retrieve (as a diver), nearly £5 million in gold from the White Star Liner Laurentic which had been sunk by a German U-boat. Other stories don’t end so happily. Richard tells me that his mother’s mother’s father was a steward on the Titanic who went down with the ship. Richard isn’t worried about the future. His only son Billy isn’t in the business at the moment. “It’s a shame,” says Richard, “because he’s not going to have the same relationship I had with my father. As to who will take over in the future I’m not worried about it. I still have another 20 years left in the business. My son has two boys and a girl and there’s nothing to say it won’t skip a generation.” Richard clearly shows he has the foresight and the ability to adapt to new methods and change. More importantly than this, he knows that the real value of an enduring business lies in the ability to provide good service, quality produce and an enjoyable shopping experience to be shared by all. JOHN GREEVES Further Information R. J. Balson & Son, 9 West Allington, Bridport, Dorset DT6 5BJ Tel: 01308 422638 www.rjbalson.co.uk THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

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The Wonder of Winnie-the-Pooh An exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London is celebrating the work of A. A. Milne, E. H. Shepard and their much-loved ‘bear of little brain’

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early a century after Winnie-the-Pooh first appeared in print he’s back in the limelight at London’s Victoria & Albert Museum at a major new exhibition which explores the origins of Pooh’s evolution. The affection in which this beloved “bear of little brain” and friends are held seems timeless but how did his tale actually begin? In the 1920s A. A. Milne was a very popular playwright and humorist who’d also penned a detective book entitled The Red House Mystery. Changing pace somewhat he’d written humorous verses for the children’s book When We Were Very Young (1924) and had the illustrator E. H. Shepard, another First World War veteran, recommended to him as the ideal person to bring the poems to life. Shepard’s economy of style, flair and lively approach was perfectly suited to Milne’s own wry humour and the phenomenal success of the book would lead to the publishers requesting another volume, one in which a certain bear came to the forefront. Milne had a young son, Christopher Robin, who had been given a teddy bear for his first birthday, the bear — known as Edward Bear — swiftly becoming his inseparable companion. With the exception of Owl and Rabbit who were bought specifically A.A. Milne and Christopher Robin. for the book and © NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY who would be invested with a grown-up quality not shared by other residents of the 100 Acre Wood, all the other animals in Pooh came from the child’s own collection. When creating his cast of lovable animals Milne anchored his characters’ exploits firmly around the real-life milieu of Ashdown Forest in Sussex where he had a country home. This ancient, tranquil area of

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open heathland Line block print, hand-coloured by was on the edge E.H. Shepard, 1970. of Cotchford Farm, Piglet: “How do the Milnes’ house you spell love?” and Christopher Pooh: “You do n’t spell it, you feel it.” Robin spent many happy hours exploring the area or playing the game that became Poohsticks at Posingford Bridge with his beloved nanny. Milne’s depiction of his characters was strongly influenced by the toys’ actual demeanour. This is why Pooh so solid and steadfast and loyal in his devotion to honey became a beacon of equable bonhomie whereas Eeyore, the grey donkey, had a drooping neck which naturally made him melancholy; both animals were deftly captured by Shepard’s expert drawings. “It’s snowing still,” said Eeyore gloomily. “So it is.” “And freezing.” “Is it?” “Yes,” said Eeyore. “However,” he said, brightening up a little, “we haven’t had an earthquake lately.” Years later Christopher Milne, whose relationship with his father became strained in adult life (largely as a result of the fame he endured as a small boy) would recall the early childhood games which had inspired the Pooh stories. “My mother

E.H. Shepard (1879-1976) and (left) one of his original drawings.

© VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM

Left: “Bump, bump, bump”, Winnie-thePooh chapter one, pencil drawing by E.H. Shepard. Above: Teddy Bear manufactured by Margarete Steiff c. 1906-1910.

joined me and she and I and the toys played together and gradually more life, more character flowed into them until they reached a point at which my father could take over.” Although Edward Bear was the inspiration behind Pooh and had briefly been glimpsed in the poem “Teddy Bear” (from When We Were Very Young) the actual bear used in the drawings was that belonging to Graham Shepard and was called Growler (as Edward was deemed too gruff for pictorial use). Winnie-the-Pooh derived his unusual name from a combination of Winnie, the bear befriended at the zoo by young Christopher, and the expression “pooh” which the young boy coined. Beginning its life as a festive story for the Evening News in 1925 and then published in book form, Winnie-the-Pooh appeared in 1926 and opens with an image taken directly from a Shepard drawing, that of Christopher Robin and bear descending the stairs: “Here is Edward Bear, coming downstairs now, bump, bump, bump, on the back of his head, behind Christopher Robin. It is, as far as he knows, the only way of coming downstairs, but sometimes he feels that there really is another way, if only he could stop bumping for a

moment and think of it. And then he feels that perhaps there isn’t. Anyhow, here he is at the bottom, and ready to be introduced to you. Winnie-the-Pooh.” Pooh’s adventures, which would enthral adults and children alike, were a perfect example of true serendipity for both narrative and illustration played a pivotal role in ensuring the book’s success. Shepard’s talent for animating and interpreting Milne’s writing was very important (like the time he draws Eeyore’s tail as Owl’s bellpull long before Pooh has spotted it himself) but Milne’s deceptively simple text and easily engaging dialogue disguised a vast reservoir of quickwitted verbal humour which was testament to his previous experience as a playwright of humorous dramas. “People say nothing is impossible, but I do nothing every day,” reflects Pooh happily. After Winnie-the-Pooh there would be Now We Are Six, another verse collection and a final goodbye to the world of Pooh in The House at Pooh Corner which introduced an unsuspecting world to the effervescent delight that was Tigger.

 THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

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‘THE WONDER OF WINNIE-THE-POOH’ (continued)

Despite his change of literary focus Milne’s approach to his children’s material was never flippant, and what he said of his first poetry collection can easily be applied to all his children’s fiction: “It is the work of a light-verse writer who should take his job seriously even though he is taking it into the nursery.” He always maintained that he never aimed specifically for the children’s market but primarily wrote for himself, an adult aware of the child within. For him the world of his childhood was a time remembered as a wonderful and exhilarating period, a perspective he shared with Kenneth Grahame, whose The Wind in the Willows Milne both adored and used as a barometer of character with any new acquaintance. “Usually I speak about it at my first meeting with a stranger. It is my opening remark, just as yours is something futile about the weather,” he wryly remarked. Shepard himself recalled being asked about his reaction to the book and he would of course go on to provide classic illustrations for The Wind in the Willows in 1931. From the very beginning Milne and Shepard enjoyed an unusually equable relationship, both men investing equally

in the creation of Pooh. Usual practice at that time was for illustrations to be added to the text after it had been written, but here Shepard’s drawings became integral to the overall narrative. Milne was very keen for the artist to draw his cast of characters within the natural environment of Ashdown Forest so Shepard was invited to visit and spent considerable time sketching the locality, his work beautifully reflecting the rural landscape of the area. Much of Winnie-the-Pooh’s appeal derives from the amusing juxtaposition of the toy animals situated within the very real Sussex forest. And now, over 90 years since Winnie-the-Pooh first appeared headfirst on the stairs, contemporary visitors once again have a chance to walk in Milne and Shepard’s shoes and relive the exciting creation of what has become one of the bestloved children’s classics of all time. AMANDA HODGES Original pencil drawings © The Shepard Trust, reproduced with permission from Curtis Brown. Right: Christopher Robin ceramic tea set presented to Princess Elizabeth, Ashtead Pottery 1928. Below: Winnie-the-Pooh saki cups, blue and white porcelain, made by Hasami for the Walt Disney Corporation c. 2014. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London.

ROYAL COLLECTION TRUST © HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II

Further Information “Nobody can be uncheered with a balloon,” once wrote A.A. Milne in the Pooh stories. And there are balloons galore in the V&A’s celebratory exhibition, “Winnie-the-Pooh: Exploring a Classic” which runs until 8th April 2018. It’s the museum’s first multi-sensory exhibition aimed squarely at young families (as well as adults interested in the Milne and Shepard creative partnership) and positively bursts with playful goodwill as it delves into the magical world of Pooh and friends through a whole host of family-friendly exhibits. As well as a rare opportunity to see the original manuscript of Winnie-the-Pooh (usually stored at the Wren Library, Cambridge) early Milne stories and Shepard sketches and the pair’s Pooh correspondence are on display, combined with multi-dimensional exhibits (like an animated Poohsticks Bridge) designed to intrigue young children. Possessing truly universal appeal, it offers the rare opportunity to see how the classic books evolved whilst also introducing young children to the timeless magic of Winnie-the-Pooh. Victoria and Albert Museum, Cromwell Road, London SW7 2RL. Tel: 020 79422000 www.vam.ac.uk

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EXPLORE ENGLAND 2018

ardens, castles and stately homes, historic towns and cities, picturesque villages and stunning countryside, working museums, heritage railways, ancient settlements and literary landmarks…England has something for everyone, and in this latest edition of Explore England we have put together a collection of articles (published for the first time) that will provide readers with some great ideas when planning days out or longer breaks. An added bonus is that, even if you do not plan to visit any of the places featured, the articles are so informative, the colour photographs so beautiful and evocative of all that is best about England, the 100 pages are sure to keep you entertained for hours and remain of interest far beyond 2018.

Just

£6.99

HIGHLIGHTS INCLUDE:

•TRANSPORTS OF DELIGHT: We pay a visit to the Oxford Bus Museum, where exhibits such as a preserved

to UK

horse-drawn tram, motor buses, coaches and a wide selection of artefacts recall travel in days gone by. Classic Morris cars and 40 vintage bicycles are also on display.

•

NORTHUMBERLAND’S CROWNING GLORIES: Celebrating the climb and spectacular views from the county’s highest peaks of Cheviot and Hedgehope.

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FOTHERINGHAY’S PLACE IN ROYAL HISTORY: This tiny Northamptonshire village, site of a former castle, boasts a wealth of royal history including the birth of Richard III and the execution of Mary, Queen of Scots. We go on a journey of discovery.

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Softback, 100 pages.

ENGLAND’S WORLD HERITAGE SITES: From the Derwent Valley Mills in Derbyshire and Studley Royal Park in Yorkshire, to Blenheim Palace in Oxfordshire, Ironbridge Gorge in Shropshire and Stonehenge in Wiltshire, there are 20 places in England recognised by UNESCO for their great beauty and historic importance. We look at what makes them so special.

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SHAKESPEARE’S STRATFORD: Inextricably linked with the great poet and playwright, the town on the banks of the Avon is one of England’s greatest tourist destinations.

Just £6.99 to UK overseas £9.99. US $20; Can $21; Aus $22; NZ $26.

As in previous years there is a useful region-by-region section providing information about places to visit in each county, a useful diary of events and numerous other illustrated features. Please order now for delivery in March 2018.

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Stories and reports from around the country Chris Grayling, the Transport Secretary, announced that some rail routes lost in the Beeching cuts of the 1960s could be restored to help increase house-building levels and boost the economy. Work on reopening the rail link between Oxford and Cambridge is expected to be completed by the mid-2020s. A team of archaeologists from Leicester University discovered a defensive ditch and iron weapons (including a Roman javelin) at Pegwell Bay in Kent, leading them to the conclusion that this was the place where Julius Caesar and his invasion force of 800 ships, 20,000 soldiers and 2,000 cavalry landed in 54BC. The most popular names for boys and girls in 2017 were: Boys: Girls: 1. Muhammad 1. Olivia 2. Oliver 2. Sophia 3. Harry 3. Amelia 4. Jack 4. Lily 5. George 5. Emily 6. Noah 6. Ava 7. Leo 7. Isla 8. Jacob 8. Isabella 9. Oscar 9. Mia 10. Charlie 10. Isabelle

After a visitor to Dawlish in Devon branded the town “oppressive” because of the large number of signs telling people what they could and could not do, the mayor, Councillor Martin Wrigley, agreed to reduce them and “make them more positive”. Messages on the signs include: “Please do not chase the birds. It will frighten them. They cannot run fast and most cannot fly” and “Please do not feed nesting birds as this attracts seagulls who steal the eggs and chicks”.

ENGLISH HUMOUR

The Definition of Cricket as Explained to an American

“Freud said that the essence of the comic was the conservation of psychic energy. But then again Freud never played second house Friday night at Glasgow Empire.” — KEN DODD

You have two sides, one out in the field and one in. Each man that’s in the side that’s in goes out, and when he’s out he comes in and the next man goes in until he’s out. When they are all out, the side that’s out comes in and the side that’s been in goes out and tries to get those coming in, out. Sometimes you get men still in and not out. When a man goes out to go in, the men who are out try to get him out, and when he is out he goes in and the next man in goes out and goes in. There are two men called umpires who stay out all the time and they decide when the men who are in are out. When both sides have been in and all the men have been out, and both sides have been out twice after all the men have been in, including those who are not out, that is the end of the game.

One fine day in the middle of the night, Two dead boys got up to fight. Back-to-back they faced one another, Drew their swords and shot each other. One was blind and the other couldn’t see, So they chose a dummy for a referee. A blind man went to see fair play, A dumb man went to shout “hooray!” A deaf policeman heard the noise, And came to arrest those two dead boys. A paralysed donkey passing by, Kicked the blind man in the eye, Sent him through a rubber wall, Into a dry ditch and drowned them all. (If you don’t believe this lie is true, Ask the blind man — he saw it too!) ANON

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Every morning, when pub landlord Peter Parsons pokes the fire in the bar of the remote Warren House Inn on Dartmoor in Devon, not only is he ensuring that any customers who call in later in the day will be warm, he is keeping a link with history going. Although sometimes only smouldering in the grate, the fire hasn’t once gone out since the pub was built to provide refreshment for tin miners in 1845.

THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

TRAGEDY That morning, when my wife eloped With James, our chauffeur, how I moped! What tragedies in life there are! I’m dashed if I can start the car. — Harry Graham, Ruthless Rhymes for Heartless Homes (1899)

ERIC: She’s a lovely girl. I’d like to marry her, but her family objects. ERNIE: Her family? ERIC: Yes, her husband and four kids. The Morecambe and Wise Joke Book (1979)

Most professional footballers are taken off the pitch part-way through a match because they are injured, not performing well enough, or because their team’s manager wants to introduce a substitute to effect a change in tactics. However, during a League One match between Wigan Athletic and Doncaster Rovers last November, home supporters were astonished to see Wigan winger, Ryan Colclough, leave the pitch, particularly as he had just scored his second goal and a possible hat-trick beckoned. What the spectators didn’t realise, as 22-year-old Ryan ran down the tunnel, was that the player had just received news that his wife, Steph, had gone into labour with their second child. Ryan made it to the local hospital with half an hour to spare and shortly after, still in his football kit, was cradling a baby boy in his arms. Harley Thomas Colclough weighed 8lb 6oz; Wigan beat Doncaster 3-0. Figures released by the Office of Rail and Road revealed that nine of the United Kingdom’s top 10 busiest stations during 2016/17 were in London. Waterloo (pictured) came top of the list, with a quarter of a million people using the station each day, followed by Victoria and Liverpool Street. The only station on the list outside the capital was Birmingham New Street in sixth position.

The Association of British Counties announced that three new county flags have been approved: Berkshire, Oxfordshire and Suffolk.

The stag and oak, representing Berkshire’s forests and deer, are symbols that have been associated with the county for hundreds of years; the blue of Oxford University, white stripes representing the River Thames, an “ox” on a “ford”, and a tree and wheat sheaf commemorating the county’s woods and agriculture; on a blue background, the arms of Saint Edmund, the last King of East Anglia, who was murdered by the Danes in 870. When two volunteers working at the St. Margaret’s Hospice charity shop at Chard in Somerset were sorting through a collection of clothes that had been donated, they were astonished to find — stuffed into a sock — a wad of £10 and £20 notes amounting to £5,000. Uncertain whether the money was a genuine donation or a mistake by a member of the public, an appeal was launched for further information. As no one came forward to claim the money, the unexpected windfall was put towards paying for a patient’s care. The 2017 World’s Biggest Liar contest, which is held each year at the Bridge Inn, Santon Bridge, Cumberland, was won for the fifth time by 61-year-old animal health adviser Mike Naylor. Entrants have eight minutes to tell the most outlandish tale, making it sound believable, without the use of a script; Mike’s story was about a flock of sheep on the moon. The competition dates from the 19th century and the tall tales recounted to tourists by local pub landlord, Will Ritson. Anyone can enter the contest except for politicians and lawyers who are considered to be too skilled at telling lies.

The Missing No. 10 Downing Street

“I can’t sit still and see another man slaving and working. I want to get up and superintend, and walk round with my hands in my pockets, and tell him what to do. It is my energetic nature. I can’t help it.” — Jerome K. Jerome, Three Men in a Boat (1889)

The Wit of Winston Churchill “Men occasionally stumble on the truth, but most of them pick themselves up and hurry off as if nothing had happened.” “I am ready to meet my Maker. Whether my Maker is prepared for the great ordeal of meeting me is another matter.”

WILLIUM (Peter Sellers): Well, sir, it’s like this, see. At 12.30 a monster lorry draws up outside, ten men jump out and wallop me on the head. I turn round to see who it was, and wallop, wallop, on my head again. I stood up, you see, have a quick barder, no one there and wallop, wallop, wallop, all on my head! As I took out my notebook, all official like, wallop! Wallop, wallop, on my head, all wallops all over my head. And then… SEAGOON (Harry Secombe): Yes, yes, yes, but did you notice anything about these men? WILLIUM: Yes. SEAGOON: What? WILLIUM: I noticed they kept walloping me on the head. — The Goon Show, 1957

THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

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CHRISTIAN ENGLAND

High treason and hidden priests

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nglish history has two sides: on the one hand, a vision of pastoral unity and Albion, as fostered by the distinguished historian Sir Arthur Bryant in books such as Protestant Island. On the other, it is a story of religious mania, subterfuge, tyranny, bloodshed and in the case of the 1605 Gunpowder Plot, a narrowly averted revolution. That version of England, seen through the eyes of contemporary historian, Tony Reynolds, brings us face to face with an overlooked period and an unfamiliar name, St. Nicholas Owen… Through Henry Vlll’s rejection of Rome, to Catholic “Bloody Mary’s” burning of Protestant martyrs, to the restoration of Protestantism under Elizabeth I, England’s religious loyalties and wars account for an often uncomfortable reading of our island story. With the invasion scare of the Spanish Armada and the looming shadow of a Catholic and Jesuit coup d’état in England, Catholicism represented to the authorities of the late 16th century what Communism was to the Americans of the 1950s. As Tony Reynolds informs us in his book, St. Nicholas Owen: PriestHole Maker (Gracewing, 2014): “During the reigns of Elizabeth I and James I it was high treason, and therefore meant death, to be a Catholic priest in England. (This was due to a 1585 Act of Parliament — ‘against Jesuits, Seminary priests and other such like disobedient persons’.) It was consequently vital that there be somewhere to hide when the pursuivants came battering at the door.” And so, entering our story of religious strife — from the humble beginnings of a carpenter’s workshop in Oxford — is one Nicholas Owen: the clever

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craftsman who invented one of history’s most unusual curiosities — the priesthole. Built into the fabric of the country houses of recusant English families (the recusants being those who refused to accept the Protestant faith), Nicholas Owen’s priest-holes provided a magical route for the evasion by Catholic priests of state authority. In fact, so remarkable were Nicholas’s cunning creations in facilitating the disappearance of priests, that he might, inadvertently, have added to the almost sinister supernatural aura which fed anti-Catholic hysteria. The Owen family’s sons were clearly steeped in a definite and earnest following of the Catholic faith, aspiring to a more spiritual station than their craftsman father. Two of young Nicholas’s brothers did in fact train as priests, and it might have been his calling, too, had it not been for his

Baddesley Clinton in Warwickshire, where several priest-holes were built. JON JAYES

unusually short, virtually dwarf-like stature (he was later known as “Little John”) which made entry into the priesthood in those days impossible. So instead, Nicholas — to some extent — followed his father’s trade, but as a skilled joiner — a maker of fine furniture and fashionable wood-panels — rather than as a simple carpenter. It was in 1577 that Nicholas was enrolled as an apprentice in his home city — a period which was to come to an end in 1585, but not before Oxford’s Edmund Campion (a convert to Catholicism) returned to England to work against the Church of England. Nicholas and his co-religionists became increasingly (to use a term with a clear modern resonance) radicalised in their faith, inspired by Campion and later by Father Henry Garnet, the “high priest” of the Jesuits in England. From his apprenticeship to the year 1588 — the time of the Spanish Armada — it seems that Nicholas continued his day-to-day work as a skilled craftsman, but his meeting with Garnet caused some form of intense radical conversion to take place, and from that moment on he became the priest’s assistant, man-servant and general factotum — assisting in Garnet’s mission to England. As the leader of The Society of Jesus, Garnet’s work concerned the importing, training and dispersal of priests across the country, to perform not just the rites of the Catholic church to recusants, but to create a life-blood — a force — for renewed Catholicism. Garnet saw Nicholas’s unquestioning devotion to

Riddled with the largest number of priest-holes of any house in England, Harvington Hall in Worcestershire. GRAHAM GOUGH

Jesuit priests and martyrs, Henry Garnet (1555-1606) and Saint Edmund Campion (15401581) and a statue in Saint Nicholas Owen’s Church, Burton Latimer, Northamptonshire, of the ingenious carpenter and engineer. Below: Priestholes at (top left and bottom left) Boscobel House in Shropshire, and one of the seven hides at Harvington Hall.

the cause as one of his mission’s most precious assets, but more than that — his young assistant had a practical use: his ability to create a system of physical protection and concealment for the entire operation. And so began a career in an underground, subversive movement: the building in many dozens of English homes, tiny hiding places for the renegade priests — holes and cupboards barely large enough, in some cases, to hide a man, but which always tested the wits and powers of those whose job it was to flush out the Catholic radicals. Nicholas Owen brought genius to his

work, in that no priest-hole was ever the same — there was no fingerprint or common characteristic which, once discovered, would make it easy to scratch through a wall to find a priesthole. Whether behind fireplaces, chiselled out from the very bowels of a house, or lurking behind a false panel, the priest-hole system was an early triumph in the art of espionage. In his excellent account of the era, Tony Reynolds writes: “... some of these meetings were held at a moated manor house called Baddesley Clinton in Warwickshire which had been leased by the Vaux

sisters, who had sheltered Garnet on his arrival in England. This house still stands and is in the possession of the National Trust. Nicholas had spent the winter of 1589 constructing several places of concealment including a sizeable priesthole, which Garnet described as ‘a very safe refuge in a well-concealed cave.’” The cave in question was actually part of the house’s sewer system, so it seems that with his skill at rerouting and redrawing the pipes, passages and conduits, Nicholas was able to bring an extraordinary level of imagination and resourcefulness to the campaign. Military strategists and resistance fighters of the Second World War could hardly have bettered this young Oxford joiner’s grasp of his subject. Another house, this time in East Anglia — Braddocks (or Broad Oaks, as it is known today)— served as a base for another important priest, Father John Gerard. Braddocks was owned by a recusant by the name of William Wiseman — his staff, apart from one supposedly faithful old retainer, all devout Catholics. However, the old fellow was not as harmless as Wiseman supposed, and he began to inform the authorities of the comings and goings at Braddocks. However, a new priesthole — just large enough for a man to squeeze into — had been devised by Nicholas, by digging into the very brickwork of the building. This little tomb served Father Gerard well: scrambling into its claustrophobic space and praying for all he was worth, the THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

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‘CHRISTIAN ENGLAND’ (continued)

fanatical leader, Robert Catesby, how any act of outrage or violence would bring about the ruin of the Catholic cause in England, provoking repression of the most savage kind. His words of warning went unheeded... On discovery of the Plot, the leading Catholic radicals of England were hunted and imprisoned. Garnet was no exception, and went to his execution in 1606. Nicholas Owen, faithful servant of the priest — and now recognised as one of the “underground’s” greatest agents and operatives — was also imprisoned, but tortured to death in circumstances of utter barbarity: the pathetic figure of “Little John” hanging from his wrists, as sadistic torturers and rackmasters The Gunpowder Plot conspirators. destroyed his body. But faith still burned searchers of the house, despite banging in Nicholas’s heart, and despite all that against door and investigating every he endured he did not betray his fellows However, Garnet’s campaign in nook, went away empty handed. or recant his principles. It was a martyr’s England reached its end with the Oxburgh Hall — again in East Anglia advent of the Gunpowder Plot of death, but was only recognised as such — provided slightly better conditions 1605 — an act of terrorism (though by the Catholic church some three-andfor its occupant: Nicholas, leading his a-half centuries later, priest from door-to-door, when, in 1970, the through a process of diminutive craftsman disorientation, and then and joiner from taking him to a cavity Oxford became... Saint — the priest-hole maker Nicholas Owen. having burrowed away Today, visitors come into the stonework and to see the National fabric, to build a refuge Trust properties and where it was even possible their quaint priestto move one’s limbs holes — and families and take a few paces to still reside in some of maintain the circulation of the old houses where blood. the recusants once Father Gerard, though, lived and worshipped. was eventually captured, It seems, from our and taken to what was Now in the hands of the National Trust, in the 17th century Oxburgh Hall in modern vantage point, renowned throughout Norfolk was home to the Bedingfield family, staunch Roman Catholics. inconceivable that men all England as the most DERYCK LISTER HALLAM should be hunted and impregnable fortress: tortured for their religious beliefs — in the Tower of London. Yet neither the thankfully thwarted) against Elizabeth England. But our forefathers lived in ancient Norman architects of the castle, I’s successor, the Protestant James ages of passion, vision and unwavering nor the jailers of the time could outwit I and the entire English, or British, belief; and the story of Protestant and the Catholic conspirators and Nicholas establishment. Yet Father Garnet, Catholic, Royalist and recusant, priest Owen — to the astonishment of all — although not initially aware of the exact and pursuer is the story of England succeeded in 1597 in spiriting Gerard nature of the plot, and never one of its itself. out of captivity. co-conspirators, nevertheless warned its STUART MILLSON

And The Cock Crowed… Our rooster crows at break of day, A shrill and strident call, He has no thought for lie-a-beds — His crowing wakes us all.

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Our rooster heralds break of day, Ten thousand others too: A lusty chorus in the dawn, Their cock-a-doodle-do.

When roosters crow at break of day I wonder do they know, The solemn part one had to play In Easter long ago? MAY HILL

T

wo years ago, with support from Classic FM and reversed, and two chants by Goss arranged from themes in Heritage Records, I set out to record a selection Beethoven’s “Pathetic” Sonata and Seventh Symphony. of well-known and lesser-known sacred chants, a Anglican chants are still very much in use today across the genre which, sung by monks and choirs, has a long history in United Kingdom, Europe, the United States and beyond and England’s cathedrals, abbeys and churches. This ancient music to me, hearing these chants by themselves, without the psalmhas long held my fascination, with its beauty and timeless, singing, is like hearing them in an entirely new way. Some are contemplative reach, and I was intrigued to find out what haunting and mournful, others are reassuring and uplifting. might happen if The obvious the words to these choice for sacred chants were my music hidden, leaving recording would Sheffield-based composer and only the music. probably have In England, been a choral pianist Christopher Hawkins the singing of ensemble, but describes his new album, plainsong during I decided to go the time of the in the opposite Silent Conversations early Church direction, gradually initially developed into sketching Anglican (or out some 22 English) chants. arrangements These simple but for solo piano. often beautiful, What followed harmonised was an evolution melodies were from pure piano used principally instrumentals for the singing into a more of psalms and complex the canticles in reimagining, Christian worship. involving Many of the combinations chant composers were distinguished musicians at England’s of piano, cello, viola and violin, alongside unembellished finest churches and cathedrals. My recording features John solo arrangements for piano, violin, cello and classical guitar Stafford Smith (1750–1836) who was organist at the Chapel respectively. Royal and who will long be remembered for composing the On the Silent Conversations CD an important feature of tune of the National Anthem of the United States of America the arrangements was the creation of space for the listener to (Star-Spangled Banner), and Thomas Attwood (1765–1838) participate in the musical conversation. In these instrumental who was sent to study abroad at the expense of the Prince of reimaginings of English chants, the ancient Hebrew poetry Wales (afterwards George IV) and became a favourite pupil of of the psalms is implied without being sung, and a calming, Mozart in Vienna. contemplative pace of music, with ample pauses and Through the centuries the chants developed in different silences between verses and half-verses, invites the listener styles, often reflecting the changing trends in classical music. to participate in the conversation. My inspiration for this During the 18th century there was a strong tendency towards recording came from a desire to hear these beautiful English the provision of chants of an intricate, elaborate and chants in quiet reflection, shaped by the contemplative sometimes carefree character; during the 19th century style of reading text that developed across many monastic to the provision of chants of a more sentimental and communities. The recording also honours this distinctly chromatic type. These different styles were part of the English type of music, written by fine church musicians appeal for me in making the Silent Conversations CD over hundreds of years. and are represented on the album along with a varying Teaming up with Sheffield-based producer James range of instrumentation and musical textures. Bacon, I made full use of the studio’s Bösendorfer The greatest composer of chants is probably James Imperial — a piano prized for its richness of Turle who was prolific in his writing and was Organist sound and singing sustain. Violinist and violist and Master of the Choristers at Westminster Abbey David Milsom’s instrumental skills and scholarly from 1831 to 1882. In the west cloister of the abbey background bring a unique and mesmerising is a memorial tablet and in the north choir aisle a dimension to the work, whilst cellist Liz Hanks’s stained glass window by Clayton and Bell featuring soulful and sensitive performances create the ideal small portraits of James and his wife. warmth and sense of space, inviting the listener into The English chant composers produced a a world free from the pressures of modernity. number of curiosities in their works too, such So, what remains when the words of the as the Grand Chant of Pelham Humfrey, the chants are hidden? The short answer is “Silent melody of which consists of merely two Conversations”. I think the longer answer will be notes, an ingenious double chant of a matter for each individual listener to decide for William Crotch, of which the second themselves. half is, note for note and chord for Silent Conversations is available by post direct from Liz Hanks chord, the same as the first half but This England. For further details, please see page 95.

Sacred music to soothe the soul

THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

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Centenary of the First World War

W

Memories of ‘Smiler’ Marshall

e knew him as Mr. Marshall and he scared me to bits. In those days — the Sixties — children, or at least the children I knew, weren’t brought up to be anxious of adults and we happily passed the time of day with all kinds of characters as we roamed the village and its surrounding fields and woods. But Mr. Marshall, clad in cavalry breeches and leather gaiters, with a rubbery smile that seldom left his face, seemed to me every inch a villain. Somewhere I had read to be wary of people who were always smiling and anyway I hardly dared to look at him because at some point in his life he’d lost an eye and the false one glinted from a sunken socket. It would be melodramatic to say he haunted my dreams but I did weave sinister stories around him. In the Sixties there were thousands of men — our grandfathers — who had served in the First World War, but by the late Nineties a mere handful remained and each was revered as a

hero, the last living links to our past. In the spring of 1997 a friend who still lived in Ashtead, the Surrey village of my childhood, sent me a cutting from the local paper. To my amazement, smiling out of the page was Mr. Marshall. The village was celebrating his 100th birthday. After that the press cuttings came regularly because by then, you see, Mr. Marshall was the only British soldier still alive who had taken part in a cavalry charge with a drawn sword. In the words of Richard van Emden, meticulous chronicler of the First World War, Trooper Albert ‘Smiler’ Marshall was a “rough diamond”. Born in an age when riding a horse was as natural as breathing, Smiler barely knew his mother who died when he was four; his Essex farm labourer father brought him up happy but as tough as they came. At the age of two he was given a cart drawn by a goat and for a joke the toddler was placed on the goat’s back facing the tail, so Smiler learnt to ride facing backwards as well as forwards. Progression to a pony was swift. A few months after the outbreak of war, inspired by Kitchener’s visit to Colchester, hungry for action and hot with war fever, Smiler took the King’s Shilling. At the recruiting office the conversation went something like this: Recruiting Officer: “Date of birth?” Smiler, truthfully: “1897, Sir.” Recruiting Officer: “Sure, laddie? Go outside for 10 minutes and think about it.” Puzzled, Smiler went outside and his eyes alighted on a recruitment poster: volunteers had to be over the age of 18. He went back inside. Same Recruiting Officer: “Date of birth?” Smiler: “1896, Sir.”

“That’s better,” replied the Recruiting Officer. “In you go.” And in he went, to the 1/1st Essex Yeomanry. In January 1915 at a PT session on the parade ground he got his nickname. While lobbing a furtive snowball at a friend he was bawled out by the NCO: “Yes, I’m talking to you, Smiler!” The name stuck. A supreme horseman, he liked to tell you he never fell off, not once. During their rigorous training the boys had to ride a different horse every day with neither saddle nor bridle but just a cane under each arm. When the sergeant major cracked his whip the horses stopped dead and many of the boys went straight to the ground with the sergeant major shouting, “Who the hell told you to dismount?” But Smiler always clung on. Ypres, Loos, the Somme, Arras, Cambrai, names from the history books now, but Smiler survived each battle. He was there on the infamous first day of the Somme when 20,000 British soldiers were killed. In an interview with the BBC in 1998 he recalled that at Cambrai the cavalry surprised the advancing Germans: “We drew our swords and cut them down. It was cut and thrust at the gallop. They stood no chance.” Harrowing memories kept Smiler silent about the war for most of his long life, hardly surprising for a man who saw action at Mametz Wood, part of the Somme offensive. You may know the story of the Oxfordshire & Buckinghamshire Light Infantry: several hundred boys — for that was what they were — arrived at the front at 6.30pm, stepping fresh-faced from the train, the buttons on their new uniforms gleaming. The following morning they were ordered over the top and by 9am all but a few lay dead. Smiler’s and his

One of the few known pictures of ‘Smiler’ Marshall during his army career and (below) soldiers advancing on the first day of the Battle of the Somme (1st July 1916).

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unit’s task was to follow an officer with a white flag into no-man’s-land to bury the bodies in ground that was too compacted to dig deep. Smiler never forgot the sight of those boys lying dead in the mud, the buttons of their uniforms catching the rays of the sun. “But the next day there was nothing, just plain ground again. Yet underneath, just a foot deep, was all that battalion, all dead.” “You didn’t worry if you were singing,” Smiler recalled, and his songs made many a bleak moment bearable for him and his mates. Whenever he met with serious trouble he’d break into the second verse of “Nearer, My God, To Thee”; even in old age if he stumbled down a step he wouldn’t get up until he’d sung that verse. The way this began is best told in Smiler’s own words: “Our intelligence could tell that the Germans were ready to blow a mine and we were told to evacuate the trenches but we didn’t go far enough. They made a great crater; hundreds of tons of dirt blew up into the air. Two of our fellows were almost completely buried, another was caught up to his legs, and I had my feet trapped. One chap had just his head sticking out of the earth and a message was passed round from this man: ‘Is Smiler all right?’ That came round to me and I said, ‘Yes, but I can’t move, I’ll have to wait until our lads come to dig us out’. ‘Well, will you sing Nearer, My God, To Thee?’ So I sang this hymn until they dug us out.” On the internet you can find a clip of Smiler, at the age of 101, singing “Take Me Back To Dear Old Blighty”. A bullet through the hand in 1917 gave him his own Blighty ticket but after a few months convalescing Smiler volunteered to return to the front, this time with the Machine Gun Corps. His most searing experience was witnessing the death of his best friend, Lennie Passiful, shot dead in the trench beside him. His sense of disgust at the treatment of Lennie’s mother — when she received her son’s final pay packet £1 had been deducted for the cost of the blanket in which he was buried — never left him. In 1921, after a tour of service in Ireland, Smiler left the army with a gratuity of £28 and returned to Essex where he married his childhood sweetheart, Florence, with whom he had five children. Employed by the Essex & Suffolk Foxhounds, Smiler lost an eye in a freak accident when a mare he was grooming flicked her tail across his face. In 1940 he and Florence moved to Ashtead to work on a small estate where they

‘Smiler’ with his son on the occasion of his 105th birthday in March 2002.

spent the rest of their lives. A cavalryman to the core, Smiler took great delight in teaching hundreds of children to ride and he himself still rode in his nineties. Like many of his generation, he rarely mentioned the war and it wasn’t until the approach of his centenary that relatives and friends began to draw the memories from him. When his remarkable story circulated Smiler became a celebrity; television crews arrived at his cottage, he gave interviews and attended a veterans’ garden party at Buckingham Palace. After much persuasion Smiler returned to Passchendaele — but only because his favourite singer, Harry Secombe, was appearing there in a Songs of Praise special. At least it gave him the chance to lay a wreath on Lennie’s grave. In 1998 he was awarded the Legion d’Honneur by the French government and in 2000 at Rochester Cathedral his solo renditions of First World War songs won him a standing ovation. The Tommies brought home all kinds of souvenirs from the battlefields of the Great War; Smiler’s was a wooden cross which he picked up from the rubble of Albert Basilica on the Somme. He kept it near him always. In his final years his bed was brought downstairs and on his bedside table stood that cross. It was beside him when he died peacefully in his sleep at the age of 108. Though this great oak of an Englishman touched my life but briefly, I feel privileged that I actually met him but I would so love the opportunity to say to him, “Sorry, Mr. Marshall, I was too young, you see. I wish I’d realised, reached out and shaken your hand.”

The Last Cavalry Charge So many days have come and gone, A hundred years in all, Since Jack became a stable lad — Back there at Kildale Hall. Then came the 1914 war Which brought a change of plan, And through intentions resolute — The lad became a man. With Major Turton forth he went Into the great unknown, With them went their horses — And nostalgic thoughts of home. The harsh effects of mustard gas And trenches damp and cold Gnawed away at life and limb And tore at heart and soul. The horses they were high on corn, The cavalry dosed with rum, Then the horses’ bits were slipped And so the charge begun. On burnished hooves the horses sped With gunfire ever near, Nostrils steaming, mouths afroth And eyes enlarged with fear. The slaughter and the carnage Was on so great a scale, But Jack was one of the lucky ones Who lived to tell the tale. This war they said would end all wars But wars they have a knack — For like a boomerang they turn And keep on coming back. Jack rode in the final cavalry charge Where many paid the price: Men and boys and horses too Made the utmost sacrifice.

GILLIAN WALSH (In memory of my father-in-law)

MIRANDA GUDENIAN

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A collection of customs, curiosities and coming events Countryside Artist Gordon Beningfield

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he 20th century was blessed with a wealth of artistic talent, yet few caught the atmosphere of the countryside and its natural history better than Gordon Beningfield. Dressed in tailored British tweed he was the archetypical countryman and he was awarded This England’s Silver Cross of St. George in 1994. On first impressions you would think he was a land agent or head keeper of a country estate; certainly not a gifted, artistic polymath skilled in all aspects of the artistic repertoire from painting to stained and engraved glass and sculpture. Although a countryman at heart, Gordon was born and brought up in the East End of London; his father was a lighterman on the River Thames. During the Second World War, Gordon and his mother were evacuated to rural Hertfordshire and the family increased in size with the birth of a brother, Roger, 10 years his junior. Gordon’s academic career was undistinguished. However, one of his teachers recognised and encouraged his skill with paint and pencil — steering him towards a career that would suit his talents. Gordon’s father, who was a skilled amateur artist himself, encouraged him into an artistic apprenticeship rather than following his early inclination towards gamekeeping. Apprenticed as ecclesiastical artist to Faithcraft, a well-known church restoration company based in St. Albans, Gordon was an excellent pupil, rapidly learning carving and gilding, painting heraldic emblems and shields; how to make his own

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THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

Gordon Beningfield (1936-1998).

paints and mix colours. The College of Art in St. Albans, where he studied, defined his incredible skill and it wasn’t long before he began to be recognised as a fine artist. His love of the countryside and wildlife found expression in his wealth of paintings and drawings, both in watercolours and in oils, and brought his work to the attention of the land-owning and country set. This led to him taking a bold step and becoming selfemployed. His first London exhibition at the Moorland Gallery in Cork Street was a sell-out; something that was to become a pattern whenever his paintings were shown, but he never quite understood his success. What he enjoyed as an artist was what he was as a person: a friendly, loyal man with an intense desire to capture on paper, canvas, glass or bronze the magical beauty of the English countryside. Probably best known for his paintings of butterflies, he set them in their own individual landscapes, so realistic that one felt they might fly away. Later in his career he was commissioned by Royal Mail to

create a set of stamps showing endangered butterflies. I had the good fortune to enjoy his company as a friend and fellow naturalist for more than 30 years until his early death, in 1998, robbed us all, family and friends alike, of a wonderful companion and confidant. He has left us a vision of the countryside imbued with his love of nature. All who knew him and appreciated his work, have a duty to remember one of the finest natural history and wildlife artists of the last century. DENNIS FURNELL A series of events, from April to September, will be held to commemorate the 20th anniversary of Gordon Beningfield’s untimely death. 14th April — Spring bird walk along the River Ver (Redbourne, one of Gordon’s former homes). 15th-17th June — Flower Festival in Great Gaddesden Church (Gordon’s resting place) celebrating the English countryside. 15th June — Evening reception, tickets only. 16th and 17th June — Walks and talks by the Hertfordshire

and Middlesex Wildlife Trust will be available along the River Gade (Water End — Gordon’s home). 6th-8th July — Event including an exhibition of Gordon’s work at the Natural History Museum, Tring, Hertfordshire. 6th July — Evening reception. 7th and 8th July — Family activities in support of conservation. This event is supported by Butterfly Conservation, The Woodland Trust, Dacorum Heritage Trust, and Beds, Bucks and Oxon Wildlife Trust. 14th-16th September — Exhibition and events led by The Boxmoor Trust. For further details on all events visit: www. hertswildlifetrust.org.uk/ gordonbeningfield and www. dacorumheritage.org.uk/dhtnews/Gordon-beningfield-2018 .

Film Brings Fame to Cornish Village

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he Cornish village of Minions on the eastern edge of Bodmin Moor, near Liskeard, has been enjoying a tourist boost after the release of the hit cartoon film of the same name in 2015. Cheerful recent additions to a Cornish village sign.

Visitors were coming to the village to take pictures of the village sign. Universal Studios, who made the film, paid Cornwall Council to erect new signs which feature the yellow characters. Although only intended as temporary, the signs are still in place and proving popular with the film’s young fans. At 980 feet, the village is the highest in Cornwall and the surrounding moors have many ancient standing stones, in particular the Hurlers stone circles, said to be men turned to stone for playing the Celtic sport of hurling on the Sabbath. A natural rock formation, the Cheesewring is so named because it resembles the pulp left behind after pressing the juice from cider apples. There are also many ruined mining chimneys and pumping houses built during the 19th-century tin and copper mining boom, and the village is part of the Cornish Mining World Heritage Site. JOHN HUSBAND

Mystery Solved...In a Country Churchyard

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o not Stoke Poges, made famous by the poet Thomas Gray in his Elegy of 1750, but one set in a harsher environment than rural Buckinghamshire. Dartmoor, and to be more precise the churchyard of St. Michael and All Angels, Princetown. Here, sharing the consecrated ground where many local people have been laid to rest, are four lines of truncated headstones about a foot in height. No name, no words of remembrance, just initials and a date. These mark the graves of prisoners who died whilst serving their sentences in the nearby prison. They cover the period from 1902. In the half-century before that, burials were in unmarked graves — but subsequently collectively remembered by a large granite cross erected in 1912. Death makes all men equal and perhaps the time may come for some modernday Thomas Gray to pen an elegy in Dartmoor’s country churchyard. The church, but not the churchyard, which has its own story to tell, is now in the care of the Churches Conservation Trust and is open to the public. DAVID HUNTER

The churchyard of St. Michael and All Angels, Princetown, Devon, with the tiny stones.

Birmingham’s Golden Boys and Giants

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hree giants of the Industrial Revolution are commemorated in the heart of the city that nurtured their pioneering work. From their base in Birmingham, the groundbreaking team of Matthew Boulton, James Watt and William Murdoch made their mark not only on England but on the entire world. Watt and Murdoch made improvements to the steam engine and invented gas lighting, among other advances, while their talents were harnessed by Boulton, an entrepreneur and industrialist. The towering achievements of this trio were recognised with a gilded bronze statue, known locally as the “Golden Boys”,

which shows them discussing engine plans. Only Boulton was a native of the city that has honoured the men in this way — Watt and Murdoch were Scots who came to live and work in Birmingham in the late-18th century. In death, however, they remain united as in life. All three were buried in Birmingham at St. Mary’s Church, Handsworth, which is sometimes described as the “Westminster Abbey of the Industrial Revolution”. LYNNE HAYWARD

Britain’s Caring Friendly Societies

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o overcome poverty and help each other in difficult times, ordinary people in 19th and early 20th century Britain gathered together to

The statue of Matthew Boulton, James Watt and William Murdoch, known locally as the Golden Boys. It is the work of William Bloye. MIKE HAYWARD

form friendly societies. These remarkable organisations grew from the simple idea that if a group of individuals contributed to a mutual fund, they could draw on it in times of emergency and distress. With financial help and mutual support as their main aims, friendly societies brought comfort and relief to countless working people and became the most important providers of social welfare in the country until the 1940s. Before the days of the welfare state and insurance schemes these wonderful support groups were the only means members had to cope with illness, death or the loss of a breadwinner’s job. No income meant a life of begging or living in the poorhouse. Each month, members paid into the society and in return payments from the pooled funds were made to those in trouble. Without such help, the shame of a pauper’s funeral could have been the fate of many of the country’s poorest people. In many towns, a public house was the only venue large enough to accommodate several members of a friendly society at any one time. Landlords were tried and trusted members of the community and could provide security for the society’s funds. If a landlord belonged to the society they would usually offer accommodation free of charge. And since the public More ‘CORNUCOPIA’ overleaf THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

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‘CORNUCOPIA’ (continued) house was foremost socially as a centre for communal activities, in time, club nights and annual celebrations became common. Not surprisingly, society meetings could include a number of toasts during the evening accompanied by a certain amount of jollity. It is little wonder that the names of friendly societies became closely linked to those of public houses. Many of the societies’ names are still remembered in pub signs, for instance Foresters, Carters, Gardeners. One of the largest friendly societies in the UK, the Oddfellows, which recently celebrated its 200th anniversary, met in a variety of public houses and today many pubs around the country bear the name Oddfellows Arms or just Oddfellows. The curious title stemmed from the fact that members were fellow tradesmen from an odd assortment of trades. The names of many friendly societies offer a clue to their origins — places, for example: Liverpool, Nottingham, Wiltshire, while others suggest occupations: Teachers, Foresters, Shepherds. More general titles include Children’s or Anglo-Saxon. The Forester’s Friendly Society reflects the society’s strong sense of duty to help those who fell into distress “as they walked through the forests of life”. The great contribution made by friendly societies lies in their marked contrast to charities. The assistance offered by a friendly society to a member in trouble was a solid entitlement earned by regular contributions paid into the common fund by all members. Well-meaning charities, on the other hand, provided only uncertain help through donations from the better-off who were often slow

well and forcing up ladders and equipment to the surface. The guardians had finally achieved what they set out to do and although the well was eventually capped for safety reasons, it remains the deepest hand-dug well in the world. PETER WORSLEY

Appeal to Help Find Historic Naval Flag

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to recognise that the plight of the poor arose largely from unemployment and poor wages. By the late-19th century, Britain was home to nearly 30,000 friendly societies, ranging in size from a handful of members to over a million. Today there are around 200, some small and locally based organisations, others are nationals offering sophisticated financial services, including long-term saving schemes. True to the past, their aim is to make a positive impact on the lives of members by helping people to help themselves. There can be no doubt that many a British family at some time in its history owes a debt of gratitude to the remarkable fabric of a friendly society. IAN SAMSON

The World’s Deepest Hand-dug Well

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uring the mid-19th century the parish guardians of Brighton in Sussex decided that a new workhouse and industrial training school for delinquents would be erected in the suburb of Woodingdean and, rather than pay high prices for pumped water from the local

Beneath this inauspicious cover in a Brighton suburb is the deepest hand-dug well in the world.

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Above: Sunderland hosts this year’s Tall Ships Races. MICHAEL DURNAN

Right: The city is also celebrating a local Naval hero, Jack Crawford. SUNDERLAND ANTIQUARIAN SOCIETY

waterworks, decided to dig a well on site. This was not unusual and they confidently expected to hit the water table at around 400 feet. Despite going down to 428 feet, however, there was no sign of any water so some horizontal shafts were added but again to no effect. Rather than admit failure, and using the available pauper workforce, they started to dig deeper. Using a process called steining, they excavated by hand, cementing bricks in place as they progressed, in effect a chimney built from the top downwards. The spoil was passed in buckets to the surface via a series of winchmen standing on narrow ledges. Not surprisingly, one winchman was reported as having fallen to his death. Conditions were appalling but the work went on 24 hours a day for almost four years and eventually reached a depth of 1,285 feet, equivalent to the Empire State building underground. Suddenly, now 850 feet below sea level, the earth began to move and all the workmen hurriedly evacuated by ladder, a process which took them 45 minutes. They were only just in time because the water abruptly burst through, flooding the

nationwide appeal has been launched to find the flag which helped secure one of the Navy’s greatest victories. The flag — or colours — were nailed to the mast of HMS Venerable by a young Sunderland sailor during the battle of Camperdown in 1797 — a dangerous and pivotal action which changed the course of the fight. Now, as Sunderland prepares to host The Tall Ships Races 2018, it has begun a campaign to bring the colours home to Wearside, in honour of Jack Crawford, the Hero of Camperdown. Born in Sunderland’s East End on 22nd March 1775, Jack became a keelman aged just 11, ferrying coal on the River Wear. Press-ganged into the Royal Navy in 1796, he served on the gun ship HMS Venerable under Admiral Duncan, the Royal Navy Commander-inChief of the North Seas. In 1797, Britain was at war with France, Holland and Spain and, on 11th October, the British and Dutch Navies met in battle off the coast of Norway, near Camperdown, close to Bergen. Instead of forming a line of ships, Admiral Duncan split the British fleet into two groups, which broke through the Dutch ships, firing damaging broadsides. It was a daring move, but successful, as it prevented the Dutch fleet from joining the French Navy and scuppered their plans to invade Ireland and then to attack Britain. However, during the fierce fighting, HMS Venerable was badly damaged and the main mast, bearing its flag — or colours — was felled. As the Union Flag (the original Union

Jack without the red saltire of St. Patrick) was the command flag of Admiral of the Fleet, its loss could have been interpreted as surrender. But, under heavy fire, 22-year-old Jack climbed the mast and nailed the colours to the top, leading to victory for the British. After the battle he was hailed a hero for his action and was honoured at a victory procession in London. In March 1798, the people of Sunderland presented him with a silver medal — now in Sunderland Museum — in honour of his daring act — and in January 1806, Jack was formally presented to King George III and granted a pension of £30 a year. Jack died on 10th November 1831, aged just 56. He was the second victim of cholera in the town and was buried in the churchyard of Sunderland Parish Church, where a headstone, erected on the site in 1888, can still be seen today. In 1890 a bronze statue commemorating his deed was erected in Sunderland’s Mowbray Park and unveiled by the Earl of Camperdown, the grandson of Admiral Duncan — and it is believed the colours Jack nailed to the mast were displayed at the ceremony. “As far as we are aware, they have never been seen again,” said Michelle Daurat, Project Director for The Tall Ships Races Sunderland 2018, “We believe the time has come to find them.” As host port for the event, which will take place from 11th to 14th July, Sunderland — once the UK’s largest shipbuilding port — expects to welcome up to 80 Tall Ships, “very similar indeed to the sort of ships on which Jack served during his time at sea,” said Michelle. “He died in poverty and his heroic actions — which turned the tide of war — have largely been forgotten. But we want to change that and I can’t think of a better tribute to him or to the huge role played by this city to the nation’s maritime heritage, than to return the colours to Wearside.” “If anyone, anywhere can help us track down the colours Jack nailed to the mast we desperately want to hear from them.” Anyone who can shed light on the whereabouts of the colours is asked to contact 0191 2656111 or email [email protected] .

The National Maritime Museum at Greenwich is staging a photography exhibition “The Great British Seaside”. © NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM, LONDON

The Jorvik Viking Festival 2018

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ork will host its annual Jorvik Viking Festival from 12th to 18th February. The event is the largest Norse-themed festival in Europe, regularly attracting over 40,000 visitors to the city. Entitled Invasion: The Dawn of Viking York this year’s festival tells the story of how the Viking warriors first arrived in the Anglo-Saxon town, before settling and creating the city of Jorvik, the capital of Viking-age England. The festival will feature the call to battle as the Viking hordes march from York Minster to Coppergate; a column of fearsome warriors stretching from one end of the city centre

to the other (Saturday 17th February, from 1pm). An encampment will run for the duration of the festival in Parliament Street, enabling visitors to get close to the Vikings on the move, and learn about what they traded, the clothes that they wore and the sagas they shared around the fire. The search for a Viking warrior returns to Coppergate Square on Saturday 17th February, with the Strongest Viking Competition — a mix of brute strength, bravado and bluster that thrills and entertains the crowds. Bringing the festival to a close will be a thrilling live-action battle, combining son-etlumiere with pyrotechnics and

Vikings are on the march again in York at the Jorvik Festival. CHARLOTTE GRAHAM

an incredible battle-royale. A cast of more than 100 warriors takes to the Eye of York, in the shadow of Clifford’s Tower, for this commemoration of the Viking invasion which laid the foundations for the next 200 years of prosperity for the city. Full details are available at www.jorvikvikingfestival.co.uk .

“Oh, we do like to be beside the seaside!”

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he nation’s love of the seaside will be celebrated in the National Maritime Museum’s special exhibition for 2018, which will showcase beach photography by some of Britain’s best photographers. The Great British Seaside: photography from the 1960s to the present will run from March to September, and will feature more than 100 works by photographers including: Martin Parr, Tony Ray-Jones, David Hurn and Simon Roberts. The exhibition will explore our changing relationship with the seaside over the last six decades and will hold up a critical and affectionate mirror to a much-loved and quintessentially British experience, captured by photographers who share a mutual love of the coast. The Great British Seaside will include images from the archival collections of each of the photographers, news film as well as some never before seen images. For further details: www.rmg.co.uk . THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

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For details of books that can be ordered from us, please see pages 83-84. LONDON THEATRES

by Michael Coventry and Peter Dazeley

UNSEEN LONDON

by Mark Daly and Peter Dazeley (Frances Lincoln £30) ISBN 9780-7112-38619 & ISBN 9780-7112-39074

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wo magnificent volumes packed full of stunning colour photographs. All the major London theatres are included and several on the fringe, making a grand total of 46, all described in full detail with colourful images. “Unseen London” is equally pleasing. (each 272pp, hardback)

ASHLEY JACKSON

The Yorkshire Artist (Pen & Sword £25) ISBN 9780-7112-39074

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ubtitled “A Lifetime of Inspiration Captured in Watercolour”, the atmospheric paintings of rural Yorkshire landscapes speak volumes. (352pp, hardback)

THE SNAIL THAT CLIMBED THE EIFFEL TOWER and other work by John Minton by Martin Salisbury (Mainstone Press £35) ISBN 9780-9576-66535

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post-war romantic artist, John Minton also embraced commercial art and this fine book celebrates his centenary. Wonderful colour images include dust-jackets, journals, adverts, prints, posters and wallpaper. A delightful volume. (240pp, hardback)

PAINTER OF PEDIGREE

Thomas Weaver of Shrewsbury by Laurence Trevelyan Weaver (Unicorn £30) ISBN 9781-9107-87670

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n excellent biography of a fine but neglected artist who lived from 1775 until 1844 and painted pedigree animals for pedigree people. The quality of his work deserves to be better-known than it is. (400pp, hardback)

Now in ruins, this is Ashley Jackson’s reconstruction of Top Withens near Haworth, the bleak farmhouse featured in Emily Brontë’s novel, Wuthering Heights (see The Yorkshire Artist).

THE WILD BOOK by David Scarfe

MY WOOD by Stephen Dalton

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(Trapeze £16.99) ISBN 9781-4091-72727 dd a dash of adventure to your life by acquiring this wonderful book of “Outdoor activities to unleash your inner child”. From climbing trees and camping to dowsing, tightrope walking and yodelling there are more than 50 exciting ventures to tackle. (272pp, hardback)

(Merlin Unwin £14.99) ISBN 9781-9107-23449 n outstanding collection of colour photographs from the owner of a nine-acre wood in rural Sussex. (154pp, hardback)

THE LOST HOUSE REVISITED

by Ed Kluz (Merrell £35) ISBN 9781-8589-46627

T Now restored to its Louis XVI decoration, the Theatre Royal, Haymarket, is one of only three Grade 1 listed London theatres, the others being Drury Lane and the Royal Opera House (see London Theatres).

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he author’s bold collages explore the creation and destruction of 10 great country houses. Illustrated by many antique prints and scraper-board pictures, it brings to life a former glory. (192pp, hardback)

One of many images in The Snail that climbed the Eiffel Tower.

THE UNSEEN OLYMPIC

The ship in rare illustrations by Patrick Mylon (History Press £19.99) ISBN 9780-7509-82672

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nlike its ill-fated sisters, Titanic and Britannic, Olympic survived into old age, but not without a few sizeable scrapes along the way. Here is her story in dozens of evocative illustrations and photographs, maritime and social history brought back to life. (196pp, hardback)

A YORKSHIRE VET Yulbah is a species native to north eastern Australia and was painted by Joseph Banks in 1770 (see Florilegium).

FLORILEGIUM

by Joseph Banks (Thames & Hudson £65) ISBN 9780-5005-19363

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hat a book! Joseph Banks sailed on Cook’s first world voyage and returned with a huge number of brilliant illustrations and botanical information. This magnificent modern compilation is quite breathtaking in its beauty, and detail, something which, sadly, Banks never saw published in his lifetime. (320pp, hardback)

Through the Seasons by Julian Norton (Michael O’Mara £14.99) ISBN 9781-7824-38434

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hose familiar with the Channel 5 fly-on-the-wall television documentary will know what to expect in this personal account of the day-today workings of a busy vet. If you like animals then you will enjoy reading about the ups and downs of a difficult but rewarding job. (256pp, hardback)

A rare and surprising German advertising card from 1934 depicting the splendour of the White Star liner routes (see The Unseen Olympic).

LOST TO THE SEA

Britain’s Vanished Coastal Communities by Stephen Wade Norfolk & Suffolk Yorkshire Coast (Pen & Sword £12.99) ISBN 9781-4738-93474 & ISBN 9781-4738-93476

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s the east coast is steadily eroded so local communities have to retreat, leaving behind their homes although not their memories. These two books tell their stories. (142pp, paperback)

A YEAR IN SHROPSHIRE

THE N.W. OF ENGLAND TRAMWAYS, POST 1945 by Peter Waller (Pen & Sword £25) ISBN 9781-4738-62074

by Mike and John Hayward (Merlin Unwin £20) ISBN 9781-9107-23388

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omplete with route maps, this is the definitive history of Lancashire and north Cheshire tramways, including the new Manchester Metrolink. (192pp, hardback)

EIGHTEENTH CENTURY WOMEN ARTISTS

Their trials, tribulations and triumphs by Caroline Chapman (Unicorn £20) ISBN 9781-9107-87502

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he 18th century was a man’s world with women largely relegated to marrying and producing a family, all of whom had to conform to rigid social conventions. We know about great women writers from this period but what about women artists? The answer is contained in this book which examines the work and careers of a number of ladies and their creations. (224pp, hardback)

ather and son have made a great job of photographing one of our remoter A narrowboat idles along the Montgomery counties throughout the seasons, describing it as Canal (see A Year in Shropshire). “Shropshire as you’ve never seen it before.” They are absolutely right. (110pp, hardback)

LONGFORD CASTLE

Treasures and Collectors by Amelia Smith (Unicorn £40) ISBN 9781-9107-87687

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A Stockport tram at Piccadilly Gardens, Manchester. The X on the local bus to the left indicates a limited stop express for Belle Vue, a once popular amusement park and zoo (see The N.W. of England Tramways).

n in-depth study of the many fine paintings and other objets d’art housed in this stately home near Salisbury in Wiltshire. Definitely one for the connoisseur who enjoys learning about the past. (308pp, hardback)

William Bouverie, 1st Earl of Radnor, painted as a child by Peter Paul Rubens during the early 17th century (see Longford Castle). F THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

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‘ENGLISH BOOKS’ (continued)

A chartered mechanical engineer, Mick Greenhough was so concerned at what the European Union was up to in secret that he wrote Brave New Europe to tell others. (Shield Crest Publishing, 112pp, paperback, £10.25) ISBN 9781-9110-90489 A 1909 proposal for New Court at Emmanuel College, Cambridge — note the different spelling (see Between Two Worlds).

BETWEEN TWO WORLDS

An Architectural History of Emmanuel College Cambridge by Jeremy Musson (Scala Arts & Heritage £30) ISBN 9781-7855-10786

PLANTS OF THE WORLD

An illustrated encyclopedia of vascular plants by Dan Jones (Kew Publishing £72) ISBN 9781-8424-66346

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large and comprehensive study of one of the many fine Cambridge colleges, which in this case dates back to the 16th century. Much, however, has changed in architectural design and styles during the intervening years. (184pp, hardback)

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The Man Who Was George Smiley by Michael Jago, is the true story of John Bingham who joined MI5 in 1940. Truth is often stranger than fiction and there is a great deal of intrigue, double dealing and extraordinary deception which saved D-Day. (Biteback, 308pp, paperback, £9.99) ISBN 9781-7859-02970

back at not just the London bus but the tram, tube, car and everything else which created the modern-day bustling metropolis. (London Transport Museum, 292pp, paperback, £12.50) ISBN 9781-8718-29235 u

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anonymous preferred (Pen & Sword White Owl £19.99) ISBN 9781-5267-06751

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illager Jim is a pseudonym for an exceptional outdoor naturalist photographer who prefers to remain anonymous. We know he lives in the Peak District, however, because this is where most of these truly superb pictures were taken. An outstanding volume. (160pp, hardback)

Phlox divaricata, from Tennessee, USA, one of around 3,000 colour pictures in Plants of the World.

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t is hard to find suitable adjectives to describe this monster encyclopedia. Truly momentous in scale it contains more than enough information and technical detail to last several lifetimes. At a rough estimate there are more than 3,000 colour maps, illustrations and photos covering the whole world. Nothing can match it. (792pp, hardback)

“Withen” means “wind” and this Yorkshire beer was inspired by Top Withens farm in Emily Brontë’s novel “Wuthering Heights” (see The Yorkshire Beer Bible).

Did you know there are nearly 200 independent breweries in Yorkshire, including one in the corner of a famous rugby league ground which produces ales with names linked to the club and former players? The Yorkshire Beer Bible by Simon Jenkins is an amusing and colourful production. (Great Northern, 192pp, hardback, £11.99) ISBN 9781-9121-01696 u

A bird-shaped murmuration of starlings created whilst being hunted by a peregrine falcon. Quite how these vast numbers of creatures manage to fly in close but rapidly changing formations is one of the miracles of the ornithological world (see Villager Jim’s Moorland Wildlife).

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Edited by David Lawrence, Omnibus, A Social History of the London Bus is a terrific collection of photographs, posters, illustrations and cartoons, which together make a wonderfully nostalgic look

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Compiled by Derek Dobson, Secret Tears is a moving collection of “comforting words for those who suffer in silence” — it really is. (Runnymede, 90pp, paperback, £9.95) ISBN 9780-9524-48631 u

VILLAGER JIM’S MOORLAND WILDLIFE

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In A Visitor’s Guide to Georgian England, Monica Hall relives drama, poetry, music, clothes, gambling, etiquette and every other aspect of an exciting slice of history. (Pen & Sword, 146pp, paperback, £12.99) ISBN 9781-4738-76859

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The Isles of Scilly in the Great War by Richard Larn is another in a long line of books charting what happened in towns and cities during the First World War. Not surprisingly for its strategic location, this one majors on the offshore shipping which came to grief. (Pen & Sword, 176pp, paperback, £12.99) ISBN 9781-4738-67666

How to Build a Skyscraper by John Hill details 46 whoppers from around the world. Fascinating for all interested in high-rise structures. (RotoVision, 192pp, hardback, £15) ISBN 9782-8889-33434 u

An unidentified group of small boys practising semaphore on the beach at Hugh Town (see The Isles of Scilly in the Great War). Does anyone know what organisation they belonged to?

English, a Story of Marmite, Queuing and Weather is a volume in which Ben Fogle attempts to discover what makes the English so distinct. Taking part in such activities as sheep dog trials, worm charming, cheese rolling, swan upping on the Thames, the Wimbledon tennis queue, reading the shipping forecast and Marmite-tasting makes for a delightful and enjoyable read. (William Collins, 292pp, hardback, £20) ISBN 9780-0082-22246 u

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Chaucer’s People, Everyday Lives in Medieval England may sound dull but it isn’t because Liza Picard, now in her 90th year, brings to life the social history of a period we still know little about. A jolly good read for historians. (Weidenfeld and Nicolson, 342pp, hardback, £25) ISBN 9780-2976-09032

Edited by Melissa Harrison, Spring is an anthology for the changing seasons, featuring more than 60 short essays. (Elliott & Thompson, 196pp, paperback, £12.99) ISBN 9781-7839-62235 u

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Put together by Tom Quinn, Great Angling Disasters is a highly amusing collection of calamitous fishing tales from the last 200 years. (Quiller, 184pp, hardback, £14.95) ISBN 9781-8468-92417 u

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“Coffee is not everyone’s cup of tea” and “A man on his high horse risks being kicked” are just two of 300 brilliant one-liners to be found in Robert Eddison’s Wisdom and Wordplay. If you are looking for a pithy quote then look no further. (Filament, 116pp, hardback, £11.99) ISBN 9781-9122-56266

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Fully revised and possibly the best and most comprehensive encyclopedia of its kind, Animal, The Definitive Visual Guide is a fantastic volume covering all mammals, birds, reptiles, amphibians, fish, and invertebrates. The colour photography is magnificent and the accompanying text highly informative. It also includes hundreds of species you will have never come across before. A real gem! (Dorling Kindersley, 632pp, hardback, £30) ISBN 9780-2412-98848 u

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In Pit Boy to Prime Minister, Graham Bebbington traces the incredible rise to fame and fortune of Sir Joseph Cook (1860-1947), who was born in Staffordshire and worked in a local mine before emigrating and becoming prime minister of Australia. (Churnet Valley, 100pp, paperback, £9.95) ISBN 9780-9956-03905 u

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Liam Mulvin’s Don’t Worry, He Doesn’t Bite is an amusing collection of tales from a country postman. Well-written and poignant they certainly entertain. (Merlin Unwin, 160pp, hardback, £12) ISBN 9781-9107-23425 u

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Colourful pocket-sized walking guides can be excellent value and Guide to Bristol and Bath Pub Walks by Nigel Vile fits the bill perfectly. (Countryside, 64pp, paperback, £12) ISBN 9781-8467-43481 u

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Most people are fascinated by tall buildings and this is the world leader. At 2,717 feet, almost twice the height of the Empire State building in New York, the Burj Halifa in Dubai is an incredible construction (see How to Build a Skyscraper).

In The Brass Eagle Lecterns of England Marcus Van Der Meulen traces a quintessential piece of church furniture which dates back to the 10th century. Many of the current lecterns are Victorian but based on Tudor counterparts. With special emphasis on Oxford and Cambridge colleges, plus a comprehensive survey of East Anglia together with an explanation of why the eagles have open beaks, this is a book for all church historians. (Amberley, 96pp, paperback, £14.99) ISBN 9781-4456-68208

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Age and the Antique Sideboard is a glance back at the absurdities of life and growing older by Barbara Spencer. (Matador, 170pp, paperback, £8.50) ISBN 9781-7880-32810 Ben Fogle is presented with his Marmite-tasting certificate by “Mr. Marmite”, St. John Sheldon (see English — A Story of Marmite, Queuing and Weather).

An early 16th century lectern at King’s Lynn Minster (see Brass Eagle Lecterns of England).

THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

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Exhibition: “The Lost Words”. The Foundling Museum, 40 Brunswick Square, London WC1N 1AZ. In a survey done by the National Trust in 2008 only one-third of primary school children could identify a magpie though nine out of ten could name a Dalek. This exhibition explores this widening gulf between childhood and the natural world. It also reveals an important part of the Foundling Hospital’s ethos of how important nature is for children’s health, education and well being. With poems by Robert Macfarlane and illustrations by Jackie Morris that conjure up the beauty of nature for both young and old. To 6th May. Tel: 020 7841 3600.

Show, Chiswick 22 Camellia House, London W4 2QN. The

Home Exhibition Exhibition, 17 Ideal Olympia London, Hammersmith

exquisite camellias housed in the Grade 1 19th-century glasshouse include rare and historically important examples including Middlemist’s red — one of only two known to exist in the world. There are also plants for sale. To 25th March. Tel: 020 8743 3905; www.chgt.org.uk .

Jazz and Blues Festival, 15 Bristol various venues, Bristol. One of

MARCH

ONEDITION

FEBRUARY

Dog Show, National 28 Crufts Exhibition Centre, Birmingham

Shrovetide Football, 13 Royal Ashbourne, Derbyshire DE6 1EU. A tradition that dates back to the 17th century, this unique football game is played over two eight-hour periods with very few rules. With goals three miles apart, and a vast scrum known as “the hug”, it attracts hundreds of participants. To 14th. Tel: 01335 343666.

Week, Easton 17 Snowdrop Walled Gardens, Grantham,

Lincolnshire NG33 5AP. Swathes of snowdrops, aconites and hellebores in an ancient 12-acre garden. For the first time there will also be a Botanical Art Exhibition for visitors to enjoy. Open 11am–4pm. To 25th. Tel: 01476 530063.

SPRING 2018

JOHN HUSBAND

English Diary

B40 1NT. World-famous event where more than 22,000 dogs compete for the coveted title of Crufts Best in Show. Attractions include fantastic displays of dog agility, a Discover Dogs section where you can meet more than 200 different breeds, a Dog Activities ring where you can unleash your dog’s potential, the Scruffts competition for crossbreeds and over 400 trade stands. To 11th. Tel: 0844 444 9944. Exhibition: “The Ey Exhibition, Picasso 1932 — Love, Fame, Tragedy”, Tate Modern, Bankside, London SE1 9TG. The first solo exhibition of Picasso’s work ever to be held at Tate Modern takes visitors on a month-by-month journey through 1932 — Picasso’s “year of wonders”. Exhibition includes more than 100 paintings, sculptures and works on paper. To 9th September. Tel: 020 7887 8888; Email: [email protected] .

the city’s largest music events, this festival is designed to appeal to music lovers of all ages and tastes. Features an exciting programme of jazz and film commissions, concerts, dancing, jam sessions, masterclasses and a host of legendary and rising jazz and blues stars. To 18th. Tel: 0117 203 4040; www.bristoljazzandbluesfest.com . York Literature Festival, various venues, York. Attracting celebrated writers, performers and artists, this well-established festival promotes the arts in York. Events will feature literature, spoken word, poetry, music, comedy, cinema and theatre. To 26th March. Further details see www.yorkliteraturefestival.co.uk .

Road, London W14 8UX. Iconic exhibition that has helped transform homes for over a century. Attractions include interior design inspiration, beautiful show gardens, fashion, food and drink and the latest gadgets. A new addition this year is trends and products in the world of fitness. To 2nd April. Tel: 0844 858 6763.

Dragon Egg Hunt, 21 Easter Lowther Castle, Penrith,

Cumberland CA10 2HH. Search through the gardens to find dragon eggs and win a chocolate prize. In the castle courtyard a huge flower installation will be on display — Lowther’s Living Egg Sculpture. To 19th April. Tel: 01931 712192; www.lowthercastle.org .

Spring Festival, 15 Falmouth various venues, Falmouth,

Cornwall. A celebration of the town’s beautiful green spaces with guided walks, Gardeners’ Question Time, clean-up gardening, music, talks, a Spring Fair and much more. To 2nd April. Tel: 01326 313553.

and Cambridge Boat 24 Oxford Races, River Thames, from

Putney to Mortlake, London. The 164th Boat Race and 73rd Women’s Boat Race will both take place on the Championship Course. This is one of the world’s oldest sporting events and one of the few that is free. For further information visit: www.theboatraces.org .

Glos. GL50 4SH. The finest horses, jockeys, trainers and owners battle it out for the top racing honours. The highlight of the Jump season, the Gold Cup, takes place on the last day. To 16th. Further information: www.cheltenham.co.uk .

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THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

JOHN HUSBAND

11 Mothering Sunday Festival, 13 Cheltenham Prestbury Park, Cheltenham,

MAY

“Queen Victoria in 24 Exhibition: Paris”, Bowes Museum, Barnard

Book Festival, 27 Hexham various venues, Hexham,

Northumberland. Mixed bag of literary delights for all ages. To 6th May. Tel: 01434 652477; www.hexhambookfestival.co.uk .

30 Good Friday “The Passion of Jesus”, Trafalgar Square, London. Moving and electric performance of the final days of Christ by 100 Wintershall players. This openair event is free. NB: There is a realistic representation of the Crucifixion so parental guidance is advised. Performances 12 noon and 3.15pm. Easter Egg Hunt, Hare Hill, Over Alderley, Macclesfield, Cheshire SK10 4PY. The Easter bunny returns to Hare Hill — solve the nature-themed puzzles and claim your prize. 10.30am–4pm. Further dates and details see www.nationaltrust.org.uk .

APRIL

Day Dawn Choir, Oxford. 21 May The choir of Magdalen College

Oxford sing to welcome the dawn from the top of Magdalen tower. Other May Day celebrations take place around the city. Starts 6am.

National Racing 12 Grand Festival, Aintree Racecourse,

Ormskirk Road, Aintree, Liverpool L9 5AS. Passion, thrills and drama at this prestigious three-day event that culminates in the world-famous race that is one of the toughest of all tests for horses and jockeys. To 14th. Tel: 0344 579 3001.

Showground, Harrogate, North Yorkshire HG2 8NZ. The first big event in the gardening calendar and one of the country’s most prestigious independent gardening shows. Attractions include exciting and innovative show gardens, Plant Pavilion, floral art marquee with stunning exhibits by florists and flower arrangers, live entertainment, cookery theatre and over 100 exhibitors with garden-related products, crafts and gifts. To 29th April. Tel: 01434 652477; www.flowershow.org.uk .

Birthday of Her Majesty 21 92nd Queen Elizabeth II Shakespeare Birthday Celebrations, various venues, Stratford-upon-Avon, Warwickshire. Celebrated on the Saturday closest to the bard’s birthday, this popular event includes a community carnival parade, music, entertainment and floral tributes taken to place on Shakespeare’s grave at Holy Trinity Church. Further details: www.shakespearecelebrations. com .

Spring Festival, 28 Liverpool Sefton Park, Croxteth Drive,

race that has been held annually since 1981. Many thousands of runners take part and large sums of money are raised for charity.

Liverpool L17 1AP. A celebration of new beginnings. Visitors have the chance to experience and gain inspiration from gardening sessions, craft workshops, yoga and meditation. A wide range of stalls will offer natural and freefrom gluten food and products. To 29th. Further details: www.springliverpoolfoodand drinkfestival.co.uk .

JULIAN CLAXTON

There are many events taking place around the country including:

3

Easter Family Fun, Ightham Mote, Mote Road, Ivy Hatch, Sevenoaks, Kent TH15 0NT. A special quiz, craft workshops and an exciting garden trail. Tel: 01732 810378.

George’s Day Celebration, Hever 22 St. Castle, Hever, Kent TN8 7NG. A family event at this romantic double-moated castle, once the childhood home of Anne Boleyn. Tel: 01732 865224; www.hevercastle.co.uk .

HEVER CASTLE AND GARDENS

ST. GEORGE’S DAY

Easter Egg Rolling, Avenham and Miller Parks, South Meadow Lane, Preston, Lancashire PR1 8JT. Traditional family event where eggs are rolled down a hill in the park. A popular Easter Bonnet competition is held and Lancashire food and drink will be on offer. Tel: 01771 253731.

GL9 1DF. One of the toughest and most exciting equestrian events in the country with world-class riders competing in dressage, cross country and show jumping in a beautiful setting. To 6th. Tel: 01454 218272.

de Yorkshire, various 23 Tour venues, Yorkshire. Now

expanded from three to four stages, this famous cycle event encompasses all four corners of the county and takes in 169 villages, towns and cities along the route. To 6th. www.letour.yorkshire.com .

Cuckoo Festival, 25 Downton various venues, Downton,

Marathon, London, 22 London finishing at the Mall. Gruelling

21 Easter Sunday 22 Easter Monday

Horse Trials, 22 Badminton Badminton, Gloucestershire

Spring Flower 26 Harrogate Show, Great Yorkshire

PETER HERRING

Castle, Co. Durham DL12 8NP. In August 1855 Queen Victoria made a State Visit to Paris and this marked a historic turning point in Anglo/French relations which had been strained by Napoleon’s defeat at Waterloo 40 years earlier. This exhibition features 51 watercolours created for and by Queen Victoria to remember this unique moment in history. To 24th June. Tel: 01833 690606.

George’s Day Charity Festival, Lytham Green, 15 East Beach, 23 St. Lytham St. Annes, Lancashire FY8 5EU. Lytham celebrates in style with

a wide range of both free and ticketed events including a St. George’s Day Lunch, Golf Day, Tea Dance and a Parade. To 29th. Further details tel: 01253 667420; www.stgeorgesdayfestival.com . St. George’s Day Marathon, Kingsdown Road, Walmer, Kent CT14 7LH. Run along a classic English seafront, runners are encouraged to wear appropriate fancy dress. Further details: [email protected]

Send your friends a greetings card to honour England’s Patron Saint. See the advert on page 85.

Wiltshire. Fun for all the family with a huge range of stalls, rural craft demonstrations and live entertainment that includes morris dancers and brass bands. www.cuckoofair.co.uk .

Island Street, 26 Crabfest, Salcombe, Devon TQ8. Charity

event that celebrates seafood. Learn how to pick a crab, make a crab pot and cook delicious dishes. Attractions include demonstrations, talks, music, wine tasting and much more. https://salcombecrabfest.co.uk .

Festival, various venues, 11 Bath Bath, Somerset. With over

160 events across the city, this celebration of music and literature marks 70 years of Bath festivals. To 27th. Further details see bathfestivals.org.uk .

We always like to hear about events of any type, but please send details in to us at least three months in advance. Readers please note that because dates and details may be changed at the last minute, they are advised to check with local organisers nearer the time of the events.

THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

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ANNOUNCEMENTS AND NOTICES

Announcements & Notices

To advertise or for more information call: Bryn Piper on 020 7400 1050 or e-mail [email protected] This England Advertisements, 185 Fleet Street, London, EC4A 2HS, England.

Lineage rates: £1.25 per word, £1.00 for Back Issues; Box Ads Rate: £30 per single column centimetre (prices excluding VAT) Copy date for Summer 2018: 6th April 2018.

WELSH BORDER

Back Issues This England Back Issues for sale — from single copies to complete sets. All enquiries welcomed. Tel: 01522 702425. E-mail: [email protected] This England Vols 1-48, 1-34 bound in blue, 35-48 in This England L.L. binders inc. indexes. Pictures available via email. Buyer Collect. All VGC £4.99. Tel: 07947 571103. Back issues 1973-2017 (1 missing). Buyer collects (N. Devon). Offers. Tel: 01271 373494.

Books/Literary Book binding, restoration, conservation and custom made binding. Private collections to unique wedding gifts. Cummins Farm, Stockland, Honiton, Devon, EX14 9EZ. Tel: 07876063997. Email: [email protected] Website: www.newmanbookbinding.co.uk Independent book publishers helping writers into print for 50 years. Details: Email: [email protected] or UWP Ltd, Ailsa, Castle Gate, Penzance, TR20 8BG.

Authors invited to submit manuscripts all categories including poetry

New Authors welcome

A.H. STOCKWELL LTD, Dept. 152, Ilfracombe, Devon, EX34 8BA. Tel 01271 862557 Fax 01271 862988

Publishers for 100 Years www.ahstockwell.co.uk

Crafts & Gifts Parades may be over but remembrance is important. Complete medal mounting service, accessories, miniatures, etc. Ex-serviceman who knows his business. Home Counties Medal Services, 53 Bodiam Crescent, Hampden Park, Eastbourne, BN22 9HQ. Tel: 01323 506012.

Debrett Ancestry Research Ltd (TE),

PO Box 379, Winchester SO23 9YQ. Tel: 01962 841904. www.debrettancestry.co.uk Holidays/Accommodation Ferring, Worthing on beach. Luxurious Bungalow. Sleeps 2/6. Dogs love it! Prices for two from £575 low season. Tel: 077703 90677 or E-mail: [email protected] Ledbury (Herefordshire) — 5 charming self-catering cottages sleeping 2-5. Tranquil countryside setting ideal for walking, touring, relaxing. Free WiFi and parking. Tel: 01531 670349. Website: www.whitehousecottages.co.uk

Wanted Boy scout & girl guide badges & memorabilia wanted by collector. Peter Maryniak, 27 Stowe Walk, Northampton NN3 6EE. Tel: 01604452156. Email: [email protected] Collector/Carpenter — Woodworking hand tools. Tel: 01780 751768. B. Jackson, 10 Ayr Close, Stamford, Lincs. PE9 2TS. Old clocks and watches parts, tools, anything. Also coins. Tel: 01933 624296. Postcards pre 1950 small or large collections required by a keen collector. Jenkins, Flat 4, The Beehives, 1 Jumpers Road, Christchurch, BH23 2JR.

SUSSEX — Peacehaven

E-mail: [email protected]

THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

Website:

www.hicksfarmholidays.co.uk

Suffolk. Coast 3 miles. 2 cottages each sleeps 2 adults. En-Suite B&B also available. Tel: 01728 648377. Website: www.suffolk-selfcatering.co.uk

Genealogy

Your Ancestors Found: Retired school inspector, Cambridge history graduate, genealogist for 40 years, researches and writes your family’s history. No task too big or small. Phone 01730 812232 for brochure, sample report and free estimate.

01544 260237

ROSS-ON-WYE — Herefordshire. 2 lovely s/c bungalows, sleeps 2/4, in the heart of the beautiful Wye Valley. A real home from home — sorry no pets. Tel: 01989 566301. Email: [email protected]

36 sumptuous Glyndebourne programmes in period 1959-2008 plus 10 spares. £65. Tel. 01628 822828.

Ancestors can trace your family history world-wide more economically and efficiently. Consult the best for a “total peace of mind” money back guarantee. For a free estimate and brochure write to: Ancestors Professional Genealogy Service, 11 Crosbie Road, Harborne, Birmingham B17 9BG. Tel: 0121 2464260. E-mail: [email protected]

Tel:

Wanted old radio valves and audio valves. Any amount. Buyer will collect or pay postage. please phone Alan on 02392 251062.

Morpeth (Northumberland) — Two peaceful, spacious and comfortable country cottages. Sleep 4 & 6. Sorry, no pets. Brochure Tel: 01661 881241. Website: www.gallowhillcottages.co.uk

Ground floor flat, private entrance, parking, sleeps two. Cliff walks 200 yards. Frequent buses to Brighton and Eastbourne. Ideally situated for exploring surrounding countryside.

For Sale

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Professional research carried out to the highest standards. Competitive prices — free assessments. Send for your FREE brochure:

Hideaway on our quiet farm. Two delightful properties sleeping 7 & 14, plus cots. Groundfloor wheelchair user friendly & hearing-loops in large house. Indoor swimming-pool. Games room.

Stamp Collections and postcards wanted by keen collector. Pre 1950. Tel: 01684 773173 or write to, Ian Aspey ‘Fieldcroft’ Aston Field Lane, Nr. Aston on Carrant, Tewkesbury, Gloucestershire, GL20 8HJ.

Tel:

01273 587365

Devon/Somerset borders family farm Peaceful scenic location for touring Exmoor, coasts and historic houses. Renowned for friendliness, comfort and delicious food. ETB 

B&B £32 per night. Dinner optional

Tel: Ann Heard 01398 361 296. Website: lowerwestcottfarm.co.uk

To receive a sample copy of this quarterly magazine, write or e-mail the address below:

The Ensign Trust, Newton Institute, Long’s Court, London WC1H 7EL Email - [email protected]

ANNOUNCEMENTS AND NOTICES

THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

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ANNOUNCEMENTS AND NOTICES

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THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

ANNOUNCEMENTS AND NOTICES

THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

81

This England Gifts

Gifts

Spring 2018

A selection of gifts from This England and Evergreen

F

rom Northumberland, Yorkshire and Cumberland, through Staffordshire, Leicestershire and Shropshire, to Devon, Cornwall, Sussex and Kent, England’s 40 traditional counties are a colourful patchwork, a tapestry created over hundreds of years by geography, history and the men and women who have lived and worked within their boundaries. Each one is different from its neighbour, with its own story to tell, its own landscape, its own customs and traditions, its own cities, towns and villages and its own distinctive character and flavour.

Just

£6.99 to UK

100pp, softback This 100-page magazine is a celebration of England’s historic counties (no Cumbria or Merseyside here!), with a feature devoted to each one, and illustrated throughout with stunning colour photographs. Descriptions of the main characteristics of the county are accompanied by details of the major towns and cities, historic sites, local customs and curiosities, regional food and drink, and a selection of fascinating facts. There are also panels highlighting some of the famous people who hail from each county and a series of “county quotations” from writers and poets.

One copy Code: TECOu Just £6.99 to uK overseas £9.25. US $19; Can $20; Aus $21; NZ $24.

SPECiAL OFFER

Two copies of A CELEBRATION OF THE TRADITIONAL COUNTIES OF ENGLAND Code: TECO2

Just £12 to uK, overseas £16. US $32; Can $34; Aus $36; NZ $41.

POST: This England Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 814, haywards heath, Sussex Rh16 9LQ. See order form on page 97 82

THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

This England Gifts

This England Gifts Bookshop The Official Story of the RAF 100

RAF 100 celebrates and commemorates 100 years of the Royal Air Force. With unique access to the RAF’s historic archives, James Holland uses photographs and documents to bring to life the story of the people, planes and missions. From its genesis in the horrors of the First World War, when pilots were open to the elements in craft made of little more than wood and fabric, to the infamous air battles of the Second World War, through to the life-saving missions carried out in today’s trouble zones, RAF 100 looks at the men, women and aircraft that are at the heart of this great service. (224pp, hardback) Code: LR100

Just £25 to uK, overseas £31. US $62; Can $65; Aus $69; NZ $79.

ChuRChiLL: The Greatest Briton in Words, Pictures and Rare Documents From his Official Archive

There are few figures in British history more famous than Winston Churchill. This lavishly illustrated book explores his history in detail, tracking Churchill’s nine-decade life from his early childhood, all the way to his last days. Churchill: The Greatest Briton is full of revealing personal letters, documents, and speeches, drawing attention to the unforgettable power of his oratory, which added a special dimension to this undoubtedly true statesman. (160pp, hardback) Code: LChuR

PuBLiShED in ASSOCiATiOn WiTh W.S.C ChuRChiLL hERiTAGE

Just £20 to uK, overseas £25. US $50; Can $53; Aus $55; NZ $64.

harry and Meghan: A Royal Engagement

On 27th November 2017, Clarence House announced the exciting news that Prince Harry is engaged to Meghan Markle, with a wedding planned for 2018. This special royal souvenir celebrates the truly modern love story. This is the tale of how the dashing Prince met and fell in love with the beautiful American actress. Despite their differing backgrounds and career paths, the new royal couple are united in their commitment to charitable campaigns and devotion to one another. With beautiful illustrations and some previously unseen images, this is a souvenir to cherish. (57pp, paperback) Code: LhAME

Just £7.99 to uK, overseas £10.99. US $22; Can $23; Aus $25; NZ $28.

PHONE: 0800 074 0188 (FREE from UK landlines) Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat 9am-5pm. Overseas: +44 1382 575052

ONLINE: www.thisengland.co.uk THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

83

This England Gifts

LOnDOn: hidden interiors

An English Heritage Book

Behind London’s many inscrutable façades lies a wealth of treasures little known to the world outside. London: Hidden Interiors describes and vividly illustrates 180 extraordinary examples, which have been selected from a complete range of building types to portray the richness and diversity of London’s architectural heritage, and the secrets that lie within. The 1,700 images from English heritage and authoritative text offer the reader a unique opportunity to see what lies behind closed doors. (448pp, hardback) ‘A remarkable exploration of the grand, the humble, the quirky and the previously undiscovered … A magnificent eye-opening collection.’ — THIS ENGLAND Code: LhinT

RRP £50, This England readers pay just £30 incl. p&p.

uK delivery only

English Parish Churches and Chapels

There are over 40,000 churches and chapels in the united Kingdom. The earliest were built by the first AngloSaxon Christians and about 10,000 were built before the Reformation in the sixteenth century. This beautifully illustrated book features photographic portraits and descriptions of 26 english churches and chapels: ancient and modern, large and small, urban and rural. It reveals the beauty of this group of buildings, the history and significance of which are unmatched anywhere in the world. (192pp, hardback) Code: LEnPC

Just £20 to uK, overseas £24. US $48; Can $51; Aus $53; NZ $61.

is Anyone Watching? By Kenneth Alwyn

In this superb sequel to Baton in the Ballet, Kenneth Alwyn, relates his time as musical director of smash hit West end musicals Half a Sixpence, Charlie Girl and Camelot before heading east to Japan with Leopold Stokowski, then west touring America conducting the late Mantovani’s orchestra where he got into all kinds of scrapes. The book tells many bizarre stories, all written in the author’s tongue in cheek amusing style which is sure to entertain everyone who reads it. (306pp, paperback) Code: LiSAW

Just £14.99 to uK, overseas £18.99. US $38; Can $40; Aus $42; NZ $49.

The Beano & Dandy Gift Book 2018

A popular collection of classic, rarely seen comic strips specially selected from our archive, with plenty of strips featuring classic characters and of course everyone’s favourite’s Dennis the Menace and Desperate Dan.

Ideal for readers of all ages, from the young to young at heart! (144pp, hardback)

RRP £12.99 – save £2! Code: LBD18

Just £10.99 to uK, overseas £15.99. US $32; Can $34; Aus $36; NZ $41.

PHONE: 0800 074 0188 (FREE from UK landlines) Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat 9am-5pm. Overseas: +44 1382 575052

ONLINE: www.thisengland.co.uk 84

THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

This England Gifts

Send a card for

ST. GEORGE’S DAY nEW DESiGn FOR 2018 if you share the Spirit of St. George send this card to all your friends at home and abroad as a truly English greeting on 23rd April,

St. George’s Day Approx. size: (folded) 5" x 7" Each card carries the simple message:

May the goodness of St. George, the Patron Saint of England, inspire and bless you and yours on this our nation’s Festival Day Sold in packs of 5 including printed St. George envelopes.

Pack of five cards and envelopes: Code: PSG18

Just £7.50 to uK, overseas £9. US $18; Can $19; Aus $20; NZ $23.

3 packs for the price of 2: Code: PSG83

Just £15 to uK, overseas £18. US $36; Can $38; Aus $40; NZ $46.

Gentleman’s Silk Tie

Lady’s Silk Scarf

Made in Lancashire of 100% printed silk twill, this luxuriously soft scarf with a stylish St. George and shield pattern will complement a lady’s outfit on any smart occasion.

SPECiAL OFFER:

Made in Lancashire, this handsome 100% silk woven tie is a must for any english gentleman wherever he lives in the world!

Code: PGLS

Code: PGTS

Just £19.95 to uK, overseas £21.95. uS $44; Can $46; Aus $49; NZ $56.

Just £22.95 to uK, overseas £24.95. uS $50; Can $53; Aus $55; NZ $64.

POST: This England Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 814, haywards heath, Sussex Rh16 9LQ. See order form on page 97 THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

85

This England Gifts

THE PERFECT GIFTS Our luxury hampers from Virginia Haywards, a family-owned company from Dorset, are the perfect way to say: happy birthday, thank you or get well soon! THe TeA TRAY

An elegant hamper that has all the ingredients for the perfect afternoon tea, including two florally designed mugs. Beautifully presented in a grey wooden tray this is a lovely gift for friends, family or valued clients.

Just

£38.50 UK delivery only

Contents: New english Teas Always Time for Tea 10 Afternoon Tea Bags 20g, Simply Cornish Clotted Cream Shortbread 200g, 2 x Teacup Flora Britannica Blue, The Original Cake Company 4” Round Topped with Red Cherries & Chipped Almonds, Wooden Tray. Code: 81609

Just

DIABeTIC JuTe BAG

Inside this jute bag is a tasty collection of diabetic treats including a chocolate bar, oat crunch biscuits, cake and morello cherry jam.

£28.50 UK delivery only

Contents: Diablo No Added Sugar White Chocolate Bar with Strawberry 75g, Diablo No Added Sugar Yoghurt Coated Strawberry Muesli Bar 30g, Diablo No Added Sugar Yoghurt Forest Fruits Muesli Bar 30g, Diablo Sugar Free Cappuccino & Cream Sweets 75g, Farmhouse Biscuits Sugar Free Oat Crunch Biscuits 150g, Gold Crown 4” No Added Sugar Fruit Cake, Stute No Sugar Added Morello Cherry extra Jam 430g, Red Jute Bag. Code: 81529

BeeR LOveRS’ CASe

This gift box contains 6 bottles of Staffordshire Brewery beers which will be received with great cheer by the beer lovers in your life. Contents: Staffordshire Brewery Black Grouse Stout 500ml 4.5% vol, Staffordshire Brewery Danebridge IPA Ale 500ml 4.5% vol, Stafforshire Brewery Double Sunset Ale 500ml 5% vol, Staffordshire Brewery Gold Beer 500ml 3.8% vol, Just Staffordshire Brewery Hoppy Bitter 500ml 4.2% vol, 99 Staffordshire Brewery Rudyard Ruby Premium Ale UK delivery 500ml 4.8% vol. only

£31.

Code: 81542

POST: This England Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 814, haywards heath, Sussex Rh16 9LQ. See order form on page 97 86

THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

This England Gifts VIRGInIa HaywaRd HamPERS THe LADIeS LuxuRY HAMPeR

Make the ladies in your life smile with this perfectly pink delightful hamper. With all the ingredients for a perfect night in, this is the ideal gift in which to pamper and indulge.

Just

£40.99 UK delivery only

Contents: elegant & english Chocolate & Raspberry Biscuits 125g, Fentimans & Bloom Gin & Rose Lemonade 275ml 6.5% vol, Macarons de Pauline Fraise - Pistache - Citron x 6 72g, Ooh! Chocolata White Heart with Raspberry Pieces 70g, Pintail Wild Rose Candle. Code: 81694

WILLIAMS GIN

A lovely gift for those who enjoy a gin and tonic — a bottle of Williams Chase elegant crisp Gin. Contents: Williams elegant 48 Gin in Presentation Box 70cl 48% vol. Code: 81271

Just

Just

£56.50 UK delivery only

£43.50 UK delivery only

TRAY OF DeLIGHTS

Light, bright and packed full of deliciousness our Tray of Delights is a real winner! A fail-safe choice for those who appreciate good food with a great selection of sweet and savoury products to choose from. Oloves Basil & Garlic Natural Green Pitted Olives 30g, Sauvignon Blanc Primera Luz Central valley Chile 75cl 13% vol, Simply Cornish Fruit Crumble & Clotted Cream Shortbread 200g, Water Hyacinth Tray. Code: 81687

PHONE: 0800 074 0188 (FREE from UK landlines) Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat 9am-5pm. Overseas: +44 1382 575052

ONLINE: www.thisengland.co.uk THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

87

This England Gifts

Refresh your kitchen with quality textiles by Sophie Conran Sophie Conran is an english designer, cook and author. Her eszter range of quality kitchen textiles was inspired by Hungarian folklore and will be a practical and stylish addition to any home.

uK delivery only

Eszter Apron This beautiful cotton apron features two front pockets and an adjustable cross over strap for the perfect fit. Code: ESZCA

Just £18.50 to uK OnLY

Eszter Knitted Tea Cosy Code: ESZKT

Just £22 to uK OnLY

Eszter Gauntlet Code: ESZGu

Just £14 to uK OnLY

Eszter Double Oven Glove Code: ESZDG

Just £16 to uK OnLY

Eszter Cotton 2-Tea Towel Set Just £15 to uK OnLY

PHONE: 0800 074 0188 (FREE from UK landlines) Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat 9am-5pm. Overseas: +44 1382 575052

ONLINE: www.thisengland.co.uk 88

THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

Code: ESZTT

This England Gifts

Shop in style with our stylish PvC coated bags With plenty of room for those daily essentials, the bags are also exceptionally practical and require very little maintenance — just simply wipe with a damp cloth! each bag has a magnetic clasp for closing and an inner pocket with a zip. Made of 100% cotton with PvC coating.

Beautiful Floral PvC Bag SMALL: Code: 609Bu MEDIUM: Code: 604Bu

Available sizes: SMALL (9" x 9" x 4¼") MEDIUM (12¼" x 15¼" x 6")

RhS Foliage PvC Bag

SMALL

£17.50

SMALL: Code: 609FL MEDIUM: Code: 604FL

UK delivery only

Arts & Crafts PvC Bag

MEDIUM

£19.50

SMALL: Code: 609AC MEDIUM: Code: 604AC

UK delivery only

Cat nap PvC Bag

Bee Keeper PvC Bag

Bird Song PvC Bag

SMALL: Code: 609Cn MEDIUM: Code: 604Cn

SMALL: Code: 609BK MEDIUM: Code: 604BK

SMALL: Code: 609BS MEDIUM: Code: 604BS

POST: This England Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 814, haywards heath, Sussex Rh16 9LQ. See order form on page 97 THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

89

This England Gifts The Stewart Granger Collection (12-DvD Set) With his dashing good looks and confident acting style, London born Jimmy Stewart changed his name to Stewart Granger to avoid confusion with the American film star and became Britain’s most popular matinee idol and an international star. This 12-film collection contains all the box office hits that boosted morale during the war and made the austerity of the immediate post-war years a little more bearable. Films included are: The Lamp Still Burns, Love Story, Fanny By Gaslight, Madonna of the Seven Moons, Waterloo Road, Caesar and Cleopatra, Caravan, The Magic Bow, Captain Boycott, Blanche Fury, Woman Hater, Adam and Evelyne. (Total running time: 1,182 mins, region code: 2) Code: DSGRA

Just £22.99 to uK, overseas £26.99. US $54; Can $57; Aus $60; NZ $69.

The Complete Doctor Collection

(7-DvD Set) A box set of all seven of the ‘Doctor’ films. Doctor in the House stars Dirk Bogarde as junior doctor Simon Sparrow and James Robertson-Justice as the terrifying Sir Lancelot Spratt, chief surgeon at St. Swithin’s. In Doctor at Sea Bogarde becomes a ship’s doctor. In Doctor at Large Bogarde is a qualified doctor and working in Casualty. Doctor in Love sees Michael Craig starring. Doctor in Distress sees Bogarde trying to manage Sir Lancelot Spratt’s love life. Doctor in Clover stars Leslie Phillips as a young doctor and in Doctor in Trouble, Leslie Phillips stows away on an ocean liner. (Total running time: 647 mins, region code: 2)

Dixon of Dock Green: series 1-3 (6-DvD Set) This collection features every surviving colour episode of one of the longest running police series on British television — and one of the best-loved. Aired between 1955 and 1976, Dixon of Dock Green starred the popular Jack Warner in the role of Sergeant George Dixon, in a series that set the tone for television police drama and paved the way for all that would follow. Filmed on set and on location around the fast-disappearing dockland community of London’s east end, the character of Dixon, with his friendly and informal ‘evening all’, offered viewers the kind of policeman you’d be tempted to welcome into your home for a cup of tea — even if you’d just robbed a bank!

(Total running time: 976 mins, region code: 2) Code: DDiXD

Code: DDOCT

Just £22.99 to uK, overseas £26.99. US $54; Can $57; Aus $60; NZ $69.

Just £34.99 to uK, overseas £40.99. US $82; Can $86; Aus $91; NZ $104.

Monty Don: The Secret history of the British Garden (2-DvD Set) From Royal palaces of the 17th century, to wistful cottages of the 20th, many of the world’s most famous, influential and important gardens were created in the uK. World-famous gardener and horticultural expert Monty Don explores the stories behind four of the country’s most important gardens to unearth plans, diaries, letters and paintings with the aim of unpacking their fascinating secrets, and revealing how our most treasured outside spaces have evolved over the past 400 years. (Total running time: 200 mins, region code: 2) Code: DGARh

Just £20.99 to uK, overseas £23.99. US $48; Can $51; Aus $53; NZ $61.

POST: This England Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 814, haywards heath, Sussex Rh16 9LQ. See order form on page 97 90

THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

This England Gifts

METAL ART:

The London Collection Create amazing miniature models with our new construction set. Simply pop out the pieces, bend the tabs and slot together using the tools provided. These intricate puzzle sets are made from high quality, stainless steel and have fine, laser-etched detailing engraved into the pieces making them impressive showstoppers to display once assembled.

Just

£27.50 UK delivery only

The set includes: Big Ben model, Tower Bridge model, Shard model, needle nose pliers, magnifying glass, ruler and fun fact postcards.

• • • •

Code: MARTL

uK delivery only

PHONE: 0800 074 0188 (FREE from UK landlines) Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat 9am-5pm. Overseas: +44 1382 575052

ONLINE: www.thisengland.co.uk THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

91

This England Gifts

WAINWRIGHT WALKS WITH JULIA BRADBURY In this fascinating BBC series Julia Bradbury retraces walks made popular by the legendary fell-walker, artist and guide writer Alfred Wainwright. Wainwright Walks

SERIES ONE We accompany Julia on four of Wainwright’s 214 illustrated walks, as she climbs to the top of the legendary fell-walker’s final resting place, Haystacks; shimmies along Sharp edge to reach the summit of Blencathra; absorbs the rugged beauty of Castle Crag; and takes on Wainwright’s ultimate challenge, the tallest mountain in england, Scafell Pike. Also featured is the compelling documentary Wainwright, The Man Who Loved the Lakes which interviews those who knew the legendary guide writer. (Running time: 175 mins) Code: DWAW1

Coast To Coast

Beautifully simple, beautifully defined and providing a complete spectrum of northern england, Wainwright’s Coast to Coast Walk is 190 miles that have become one of the classic long-distance challenges of the British Isles. Having completed his Pictorial Guides to the Lakeland Fells, Alfred Wainwright became obsessed with finding the perfect route across the north of england, from the Irish to the North Sea. Following in his footsteps, Julia sets out from the cliffs at St. Bees in Cumbria, crossing moorland, mountains and national parks to reach her destination — the beach at Robin Hood’s Bay in North Yorkshire.

(Running time: 174 mins) Code: DWAWC

Canal Walks

This time Julia Bradbury explores the canals of Britain and their towpath trails. These four walks: the Llangollen Canal, Caledonian Canal, Worcester and Birmingham Canal and the Kennet and Avon Canal, follow a hidden network of locks, bridges, aqueducts and tunnels, cutting a sedate path through some of the country’s finest scenery.

(Running time: 120 mins) Code: DWAWL

Wainwright Walks

SERIES TWO We follow Julia on six of Wainwright’s walks as she tackles Helvellyn via Striding edge, one of the Lake’s most famous challenges; ascends the “perfect family” fell Catbells; and succeeds in conquering Wainwright’s “best ridge mile” and two peaks in one day, Crinkle Crags and Bowfell. She also surmounts the true summit of Helm Crag; learns of the sadness of Mardale while climbing High Street encountering its many twists and turns; and experiences the drama of what Wainwright called the most handsome crag in Lakeland, Pillar.

(Running time: 174 mins) Code: DWAW2

Railway Walks

In the 1960s thousands of railways across the country were closed. Many of these old branch lines, and the spectacular scenery they pass through, are now treasured by ramblers. Julia follows these old tracks, overgrown cuttings and ancient viaducts of Britain’s lost rail empire, visits the disused lines in stunning landscapes, urban backstreets, with each contrasting walk having a unique story to tell. Featuring The Monsal Trail, The Mawddach Trail, Cornwall’s Mineral Tramways, The Strathspey Railway, The Rodwell Trail & Portland, and Callander to Loch Tay, the series provides hours of beautiful walks steeped in history and offers a fascinating and in-depth insight into industrial Britain. (Running time: 174 mins) Code: DWAWR

SPECiAL OFFER

Wainwright Walks Complete Boxed Set with Julia Bradbury Featuring all ten walks covered in series 1 and 2 of Wainwright Walks, all six episodes of Coast to Coast, all six episodes of Railway Walks all four walks featured in Canal Walks; and the documentary Wainwright: The Man Who Loved the Lakes, plus an interview with eric Robson, Chairman of the Wainwright Society. Code: DWAW5

Just £10.99 EACh to uK, overseas £13.99. US $28; Can $30; Aus $31; NZ $36.

Just £34.99 to uK, overseas £40.99. US $82; Can $86; Aus $91; NZ $104.

All DvDs on this page are region 2.

PHONE: 0800 074 0188 (FREE from UK landlines) Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat 9am-5pm. Overseas: +44 1382 575052

ONLINE: www.thisengland.co.uk 92

THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

This England Gifts

ImperIal War museum ConstruCtIon sets This new collection has been inspired by five of IWM’s most iconic objects, with the sets featuring Second World War Navy ship HMS Belfast, the Lancaster Bomber, Sherman Tank, Willys MB Jeep and the Hawker Hurricane. Lancaster Bomber Construction Set 386 pieces Code: FX023

hawker hurricane Construction Set 285 pieces Code: FX022

Just

£27.50 each

UK delivery only

Each package features archival images of the vehicles and informative descriptions.

hMS Belfast Construction Set 514 pieces Code: FX026

Size approx. 10" x 11" when complete.

Each box contains step-by-step instructions and necessary tools to build the model vehicle. Sherman Tank Construction Set 287 pieces, size: 24.5 x 28 x 4cm when complete. Code: FX024

Willys MB Jeep Construction Set 377 pieces, size: 24.5 x 28 x 4cm when complete Code: FX025

POST: This England Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 814, haywards heath, Sussex Rh16 9LQ. See order form on page 97 THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

93

This England Gifts THE TRUE, HISTORIC COUNTIES OF GREAT BRITAIN AND NORTHERN IRELAND This map is the only one in existence showing the counties in a modern, large scale format. It shows real historic (not administrative) counties that remain the same today as they have been for hundreds of years. This unique map, printed on satin paper, comes either as a plain or laminated wall map or a traditional folded map that you can take anywhere. • Size 46" x 32" • Scale 1" to 13½ miles • Principal cities and towns • historic county towns • Motorways and principal road network

• Fascinating “About this

map” account included Laminated wall map:

Folded map:

Plain wall map:

Code: MFMAP

Code: MWMAP

Code: MLMAP

Just £14.95 to uK, overseas £19.95. US $40; Can $42; Aus $44; NZ $51.

Just £21.95 to uK, overseas £29.95. US $60; Can $63; Aus $66; NZ $76.

Just £39.95 to uK, overseas £51.95. US $103; Can $109; Aus $115; NZ $132.

The Real County of Yorkshire Map Yorkshire, our largest county, with its three historic Ridings, is the same today as it has been for over a thousand years. The boundaries of no fewer than 35 councils governing those who live in Yorkshire bear no relation to the real county. This map, the first in the ‘Real County’ series, sets the record straight. • Size approx. 33" x 23" • Accurate boundaries of the real county of Yorkshire • Yorkshire’s three Ridings clearly marked • historic boundary of the city of York • Current local government boundaries • Principal cities, towns and villages • national parks, principal rivers and peaks • heritage railways • Key tourist attractions Also included is a fascinating, detailed ‘About this map’ account.

Yorkshire folded map: Code: MFYOR Just £12.95 to uK, overseas £18.95. US $38; Can $40; Aus $42; NZ $48. Yorkshire plain wall map: Code: MWYOR Just £16.95 to uK, overseas £23.95. US $48; Can $51; Aus $53; NZ $61. Yorkshire laminated wall map: Code: MLYOR Just £29.95 to uK, overseas £37.95. US $76; Can $80; Aus $84; NZ $97.

POST: This England Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 814, haywards heath, Sussex Rh16 9LQ. See order form on page 97 94

THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

This England Gifts Sing Something Simple On Sunday evenings for over 40 years, listeners would sit back in their armchairs and relax to the gentle sounds of Sing Something Simple. Broadcast first on the BBC Light Programme and then on BBC Radio Two, the show featured the most popular melodies of the last 70 years, performed by The Cliff Adams Singers, accompanied by accordionist Jack Emblow. SinG SOMEThinG SiMPLE...AS CARES GO BY (4-CD Set)

Code: CSin1

April Showers; Over My Shoulder; Bring Me Sunshine; The Old Fashioned Way; Try A Little Tenderness; Raining in my Heart; Just One of Those Things; Dancing In The Dark; Pretty Baby; Tiptoe Through The Tulips; You Do Something To Me; Unforgettable and many, many more.

SinG SOMEThinG SiMPLE....SECOnD TiME AROunD (4-CD Set)

Code: CSin2

Everything I’ve Got; Danny Boy; C’est Si Bon; I Left My Heart In San Francisco; Dancing On The Ceiling; Cabaret; Ol’ Man River; I Only Have Eyes For You; Lili Marlene; Can’t Buy Me Love; Gone With The Wind; Time After Time; With A Song In My Heart and more. Each set just £20.99 each to UK, overseas £23.99. uS $48; Can $51; Aus $53; NZ $61.

On ThE AiR

(5-CD Set) If you know the theme tunes to The Archers, Two Way Family Favourites, Music While You Work, Friday Night Is Music Night, Dr Finlay’s Casebook, Desert Island Discs, Housewives’ Choice, My Word, What The Papers Say, Dr Kildare, Blue Peter, Brief Encounter, Dixon of Dock Green, Genevieve, Paul Temple, Down Your Way — then On The Air is for you. This fiveCD collection has 100 full-length original versions of the most popular light orchestral British radio and Tv themes. Code: COTA5

Just £20.99 to uK, overseas £23.99. US $48; Can $51; Aus $53; NZ $61.

ThOSE WERE ThE DAYS: 100 Musical Wartime Memories (5-CD Set) “Those Were The Days” simply features all the songs which won the war! All the classics are here, including We’ll Meet Again, Lambeth Walk, Chattanooga Choo Choo, Don’t Sit Under The Apple Tree, As Time Goes By, Bless ‘Em All and Boogie Woogie Bugle Boy. Sing along with legends like Bing Crosby, vera Lynn, Judy Garland, The ink Spots & The Andrews Sisters. You’ll be transported back to a historic period in time with 100 musical memories from the wartime era, as you reminisce on this nostalgic journey. Code: CWAME Just £20 to uK, overseas £23.50. uS $47; Can $50; Aus $52; NZ $60.

MAnTOvAni: The Complete Collection

SiLEnT COnvERSATiOnS CD

(5-CD Set)

See article on page 65.

Annunzio Paolo Mantovani was born in venice in 1905 and seven years later his family moved to London. From the 1930s to the 1960s he sold 60 million records. This 100-track anthology from the legendary

Just

£13.99

Mantovani and his orchestras features The Moulin Rouge Theme, Moon River, La Vie En Rose, Charmaine, Arrivederci Roma, Fly Me To The Moon and many more. Code: CMOnT Just £20 to uK, overseas £23.50. uS $47; Can $50; Aus $52; NZ $60.

UK delivery only

Code: CSiLC

Just £13.99 to uK OnLY

PHONE: 0800 074 0188 (FREE from UK landlines) Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat 9am-5pm. Overseas: +44 1382 575052

ONLINE: www.thisengland.co.uk THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

95

This England Gifts

Yesterda s Music y’ A collection of CDs all exclusive to This England

Continental Cabaret: You are sure to recognise several of the songs and singers which make up this delightful CD with a distinct French flavour. Others will be new and all the better for that! Tracks include: Boum; La Mer (The Sea); Le Fiacre (The Cab); J’Attendrai (I Will Wait); Non, Je Ne Regrette Rien; Une Hirondelle (A Swallow); Marianne; Caroline, Cherie; La Vie En Rose; Sur la Pont d’Avignon; Moulin Rouge; Marinella; Louise; Madame la Marquise; Minouche (Affection); Lady Be Good; My Melancholy Baby; Canastos (Oh My Goodness); La Petite Tonkinoise (My Pretty Little Tonkin Girl); Parlez Moi D’Amour (Talk to Me of Love); Darling, Je Vous Aime Beaucoup, etc. Code: C170

On the Right Track

On the Right Road

Listen again to the graceful, timeless melodies of steam which recreated the charm, poise and punctuality of a personal service on rails. On the Right Track includes both rare and wellknown tunes and is already a best seller.

A real gem in the transport crown, alternating orchestral and vocal tunes. Many of the tracks have never previously been released on CD, in particular Impressions of London by Ronald Binge. A unique compilation!

Code: CTRC

Code: COTR

On the Quarterdeck

up in the Air

Much of this nautical CD is deliberately atmospheric. Sit back and wallow in the glow of naval history, military bands, serious songs, comic songs, large boats, small boats, hornpipes and other nautical dances.

This aerial CD includes both vocal and orchestral numbers, some of which have never been heard in public before, especially the rare short four movement Airways Suite. You won’t be able to stop your feet tapping.

Code: COTS

Code: COTF

Just £9.95 each to uK, overseas £12. US $24; Can $26; Aus $27; NZ $31.

SPECiAL OFFER

Buy all four transport CDs for only £25 and save £14.80! Code: CTRA4

Just £25 to uK, overseas £28. US $56; Can $59; Aus $62; NZ $71.

PHONE: 0800 074 0188 (FREE from UK landlines) Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat 9am-5pm. Overseas: +44 1382 575052

ONLINE: www.thisengland.co.uk 96

THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

England Gifts Order This form for Gifts

This England Any Occasion Cards High quality glossy cards featuring stunning images taken from This England Country Calendar 2018. Size:7" x 5" blank inside.

how to order: Phone: 0800 074 0188 (FREE from UK landlines) Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat 9am-5pm

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THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2018

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Present Spring

A mist of bluebells hangs beside the path From border beds of mossy green, To speak to me of high celestial bliss Where lately only weeds had been. A clinging ivy creeps across the wall Transforming bricks of background red; Pale primroses and golden crocuses Proclaim the fact that winter’s fled. The freezing days of frost and snow are gone As birds now trill in carolling — The summer comes as cuckoo promises In glowing terms of present spring. MARGARET COMER

Bluebells and Wild Campion beside a shady path at Kingswood, St. Austell in Cornwall. JOHN HUSBAND