Autumn 2017 This England

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For all who love our green and pleasant land

AUTUMN 2017 Quarterly £5.25

NORMAN BROWNE

The Historic Homes of England Michelham Priory, Sussex

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ncircling this 800-year-old priory near Hailsham is one of the country’s longest water-filled moats, from which Thomas Becket was allegedly rescued after being thrown from his horse. Many believe this to have been an inspiration which spurred on his future career before his murder in Canterbury Cathedral in 1170.

The property later fell foul of the Dissolution of the Monasteries in 1537 and was the first monastic site to be awarded to Thomas Cromwell. After he was executed the estate reverted to the Crown following which Henry Vlll gave part of it to his fourth wife, Anne of Cleves. After passing through various hands it was bought by Thomas Gwynn who began renovations in 1905. It was subsequently improved by the Wright family but a disastrous fire in 1927 destroyed much of the original Tudor structure. Nevertheless, part of the building hosted evacuees during the Second World War. Subsequently presented to the Sussex Architectural Society, the priory is also a member of the Historic Houses Association and is open daily from February to October. Further information: Tel 01323 844224 or visit www.sussexpast.co.uk/michelham .

Autumn 2017 . . . is a quarterly journal published in Spring, Summer, Autumn and Winter, for all who love our green and pleasant land. Annual subscription rates: (4 quarterly editions, inc. postage and packing): U.K. addresses £21; Overseas addresses £29 (by Airmail) Personal dollar cheques accepted from USA at $41.18 per subscription; Canada $56.55; Australia $54.81; New Zealand $58.58. Next four UK Publication Dates (approx): Winter 2017: 1st Nov.; Spring 2018: 7th Feb.; Summer 2018: 9th May; Autumn 2018: 8th Aug. Editor: Stephen Garnett Deputy Editor: Angeline Wilcox Assistant Editors: Susan Kelleher, Peter Worsley Media: Edmund Whitehouse Production: Ann Augur, Keren Bowers Music Editor: Percy Bickerdyke Recording Engineer: Eric Holmes Advertising: Bryn Piper Editorial Secretaries: Christine Freeman Angie Mulcahy Head of Publishing: Maria Welch SALES/SUBSCRIPTIONS: This England, PO Box 814, Haywards Heath, Sussex RH16 9LQ. Telephone: FREEPHONE 0800 074 0188 (Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat 9am-5pm)

Overseas +44 1382 575052 E-mail: [email protected] Internet: www.thisengland.co.uk EDITORIAL: This England, The Lypiatts, Lansdown Road, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire, GL50 2JA. Telephone: UK 01242 225780 Overseas +44 (0) 1242 225780 E-mail: [email protected] Articles and photographs submitted for publication must be accompanied by a stamped addressed envelope for return if unsuitable. Whilst all reasonable care will be taken, the Publishers do not accept responsibility for loss of, or damage to material sent in for consideration. Address all submissions to the Editor at This England’s Editorial Office.

Cottages among the fells at Little Langdale in the Lake District, a beautiful corner of England recently awarded Unesco World Heritage status. TOM RICHARDSON

Page Contents

AUTUMN 2017

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The Historic Homes of England:

14 10 12 16 19 20 22

The Royal Oak The Editor’s Letter A Royal History of England: Charles II English Excursions: Askrigg and the Yorkshire Dales It’s A Snail’s Pace in Twickenham In England — Now!: The Fishermen of Selsey Literary Landscapes of England: Elihu Burritt:

26 28 32 34 38 40 42 44 45 50 51 52 53 54 58 60 64 68 72 76 100

Notes from a Cottage Garden Reaching for the Skies Poets’ Corner Somerset’s Feast of Flavours Nelson’s Column: Keeping an eye on the nation England’s Last Revolution Taking to the Skies with Bradshaw’s Post Box: Letters to the Editor Silver Cross of St. George: Richard Meyer Forget-Me-Nots: ‘Before the War’

Michelham Priory, Sussex

An American’s View of Victorian England

The Day My Father Raced a V1 Flying Bomb No Mod Cons Harvest Memory

Beautiful in Black and White Portrait of a Village: Sticky Toffee Cartmel All the Fun of the Fair Centenary of the First World War: Passchendaele Cornucopia English Books English Diary Goodnight World

Source/Contributor Norman Browne William Southwood Stephen Garnett Paul James Steve Roberts Morgan Penn John Periam Brian Conduit Rosemary Pettigrew John Greeves Susan Kelleher Andrea Cowan George Nelson Glyn Jones Alan Thomas —

Peter Worsley Brian Bone Adrian Cooper Suzette Mizen Lesley Pardoe Christopher Nicholson David McVey Bernard Bale Tonie and Valmai Holt — — —

Iris Hesselden

This England — read by two million patriots all over the World! Printed in England by Webmart Ltd, OX26 4UL Distributed by Marketforce (UK), 2nd Floor, 5 Churchill Place, Canary Wharf, London E14 5HU. EXPORT DISTRIBUTION (excluding AU and NZ) Seymour Distribution Ltd, 2 East Poultry Avenue, London EC1A 9PT Tel: +44(0)20 7429 4000 Fax: +44(0)20 7429 4001 Email: [email protected] Website: www.seymour.co.uk © 2017 This England Publishing Ltd.

This England, ISSN 0040-6171, is published quarterly (Feb., May, Aug., Nov.) by This England Publishing Ltd., Stonecroft, 69 Station Road, Redhill, Surrey, RH1 1EY, UNITED KINGDOM. The US annual subscription price is $41.18. Airfreight and mailing in the USA by agent named Worldnet Shipping Inc., 156-15, 146th Avenue, 2nd Floor, Jamaica, NY 11434, USA. Application to Mail at Periodicals Postage Prices is Paid at Jamaica NY 11431. US Postmaster: Send address changes to This England, Worldnet Shipping Inc., 156-15, 146th Avenue, 2nd Floor, Jamaica, NY 11434, USA. Subscription records are maintained at This England Publishing Ltd., Stonecroft, 69 Station Road, Redhill, Surrey, RH1 1EY, UNITED KINGDOM. Air Business Ltd is acting as our mailing agent. THIS ENGLAND,

Autumn, 2017

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The Royal Oak by William Southwood (1889 –1944)

The noblest of trees of old England! I linger to gaze at thy might, And think of the name that men gave thee, And know in my heart they are right! Majestic, ancient oak trees in Windsor Great Park on the Surrey/Berkshire border. JOHN BLAKE

I see in thy grand noble bearing A triumph of nature indeed; It dawns on me now — what a marvel, To rise from so tiny a seed!

How splendid thou art at this moment All blending with soft mystic light The gold of the glorious sunset With gloom of the oncoming night! Cattle grazing peacefully in the late autumn sunshine at Enville in Staffordshire. GRAHAM GOUGH

The smoke of industrial city Ne’er masks thy own glorious pride; Just pure rustic breezes of nature Can ripple thy leaves into sighs.

Years have crept on, aye and centuries, Ye counted them all, one by one: Thou’st braved many cold piercing winters And countless times courted the sun. And still at th’ appointed of seasons Ye robe, as ordained thou should’st do, And bow to the message of autumn Retaining the whole winter through. If blessed with a tongue, though would’st tell us Thy mighty ancestral line; How Druids of old came to greet thee And claim with their worship thy shrine. Autumn’s arboreal splendour abounds at Kilver Court Gardens in Shepton Mallet, Somerset. CHRISTOPHER NICHOLSON

Those Hearts of Oak — Britain’s past glory, The walls of wood, fashioned of thee; Thou would’st surely speak of Trafalgar And deeds of those sons of the sea? Their ensign thou carried to victory And bravest of sailors afloat: O grand thou art! Grand in our history! We knight thee — our Sir Royal Oak.

The Editor’s Letter

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t the time of writing it is a word that is on many people’s lips and the subject of numerous articles in the national newspapers…austerity, the term that has been given by politicians and the media to describe the government’s policy of freezing public-sector pay and reducing expenditure. There is much debate about whether, following their worse-than-expected performance in the recent General Election, Prime Minister Theresa May (at the time of writing!) and the Conservatives will have to alter their cost-cutting strategy to win over supporters from Jeremy Corbyn and the Labour Party: during the election campaign they were promising to hand out money left, right and centre. Only time will tell. Austerity…it seems a strange word to apply to the United Kingdom in 2017 and one that I associate more with the drab and grey-looking country depicted in newsreels in the years immediately after the Second World War. Looking around at the expensive cars on the road, the sophisticated mobile phones that most people seem to possess, the exotic summer holidays many families and couples enjoy each year, the universal access to the internet that is taken for granted and the wide range of food on offer on the shelves of supermarkets, I have to admit that I see little evidence of it. Perhaps I am looking in the wrong place, but I’d be interested to know what the men and women who grew up in the England of the Forties and Fifties think of the comparison. Long after the defeats of Germany and Japan in 1945, the devastating effects of the war and the huge financial cost to the nation continued to be felt. Many towns and cities — particularly London — bore the scars of the conflict with ugly bomb sites of rubble and half-derelict buildings, while every family in the land was affected by shortages and protracted peacetime rationing: bread continued to be on ration until 1948, clothes until 1949; petrol rationing didn’t end until May 1950, confectionery and sugar continued to be rationed until 1953 and meat until July 1954. It was in 1943, looking forward to the return of peace, that the Royal Society of Arts had come up with the idea of an event to commemorate the centenary of the Great Exhibition of 1851, a spectacular world fair that, as well as showcasing the achievements of countries from around the globe, had highlighted Britain’s position as a modern industrial nation at the head of a vast Empire. Taken up by the post-war Labour Government — and in particular the Party’s deputy leader

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Herbert Morrison — the decision was made to organise a Festival of Britain. Rather than being an international exhibition, the festival was planned as an ambitious celebration of British achievements in the fields of the arts, architecture, industry, science and technology. It was also seen as a good way of lifting the doom and gloom from the shoulders of a weary nation and showing the people of Britain that, for all the hardships they were experiencing, the future was bright and exciting with British scientists, designers and inventors leading the world. Following the result of last year’s Referendum and the vote by the majority of the people in the UK to leave the European Union, there has been a lot of doom-mongering among some of those who opposed the verdict and continuing predictions of the dire consequences that will follow our departure. Negotiations are clearly going to be difficult and there is bound to be a period of uncertainty, but for me the thought of the United Kingdom regaining its sovereignty after 45 years remains a glorious and exciting prospect and it is only because of those politicians who took us deeper and deeper into the EU during the last four decades (either by signing treaties or passively supporting those who did) that the task of disentangling ourselves from all the ropes and chains is now such a complicated one. Once we do officially leave, regaining control of our borders, making our own laws, spending our money in a way that is in the national interest and forging trading arrangements around the world, no matter what some people might be thinking I believe it will be a moment of great optimism and opportunity for our country and one that is certain to stimulate the enterprise, ingenuity and invention for which our nation has been known throughout history. In which case, following the examples of 1851 and 1951, I think we should start making plans for another festival: to mark our new-found independence in two years’ time and to celebrate all that is best about, not only England as is customary on these pages, but Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland as well. I have already given the matter some thought and suggest that the “Festival of the United Kingdom” might be a good name. As for location: my initial idea was for separate events to be held in the capital cities of the four home nations, but quickly came to the conclusion that a single, central venue would be more in keeping with the “United” theme, so perhaps a site in a city somewhere in the heart of England might be appropriate. There could, of course, be four corners of the festival ground set aside for each nation where exhibitions, displays, pageants, musical performances and stalls selling traditional food and drink would celebrate each country’s individual culture and history. A large part of the showground would probably be devoted to stands and stalls representing great UK companies (“Made in the United Kingdom”), while there would also be representatives from our Armed Forces (including a flypast), the countries of the Commonwealth and, of course, attractions for children and young people: a fun fair, perhaps, and a stage for a bumper Brexit

concert! It might also be entertaining to have people dressed as Great Britons mingling with the crowds, a centre devoted to the countless inventions and institutions that the UK has given the world (with, I hope, a small space for This England and Evergreen!) and a science and technology area highlighting some of the exciting developments we can expect in the future. If you fancy yourself as one of the Great Britons, I’ll be inviting volunteers from This England readers nearer the time! In addition, I expect there will need to be auditions for someone to take the part of Britannia — oh yes, and in due course a national competition to design the festival logo. I am sure that other ideas will present themselves as the campaign progresses and I would appreciate any suggestions that you might have. In the meantime, a look back at the 1951 event should provide us with some inspiration. And some of you can probably add memories of your own (I have been told that long queues were a feature!) The main site of the festival, which was opened on 3rd May 1951 by King George VI, was 27 acres of derelict land near Waterloo Station on the south bank of the River Thames. A series of pavilions housed nearly 30 exhibitions on a wide range of subjects that included “The Land of Britain”, “Power and Production”, “Sea and Ships”, “Transport”, “Homes and Gardens”, “The New Schools”, “Health”, “Sport”, “The Seaside” and “Television”. One exhibition, “The Lion and the Unicorn”, even explored the British character, with the festival guidebook explaining: “The title of the pavilion serves to symbolise two of the main qualities of the national character: on the one hand, realism and strength, on the other fantasy, independence and imagination.” Another attraction — one of the most popular with the eight million people who visited the festival during its five-month run — was the 400-seat Telecinema which was the first in the world able to show films (in 3D) and large-screen television. Visitors could watch a number of documentary films specially produced for the festival. Dominating the festival site was the spectacular Dome of Discovery (admission five shillings). At the time it was the largest dome in the world — 93 feet tall and with a diameter of 365 feet. Here, exhibitions included “The Land”, “The Earth”, “Polar”, “Sea”, “Sky”, “Outer Space” and “The Living World”. Next to the Dome was the structure that created the biggest stir of all: the Skylon. This slender, cigar-shaped tower was supported by barely visible cables that gave the impression that it was floating above the ground. The largest building, specially built for the event, was the Royal Festival Hall, a 3,300-seat concert hall where symphony, choral and orchestral concerts could be enjoyed. Today, the Royal Festival Hall is a Grade I listed building, and the only one to survive when the election of a Conservative government in October 1951 led to the removal of all traces of the festival. In the years since, there has been much debate about what became of the Skylon: that it was dumped in the river, broken up for scrap etc. Perhaps one day in the future a team of strong men will carry it onto the set of television’s Antiques Roadshow! A short distance upriver, and complementing perfectly the educational exhibition site, Battersea Park was turned into the Festival Pleasure Gardens. Magically floodlit at night, and

The Guinness Clock, visitors by the Dome of Discovery, and the futuristic Skylon.

often further illuminated by firework displays, this was a wonderland with something for everyone, a vast area of terraces, gardens, lakes and grottos, where visitors, traversing the paths and emerging from treelined avenues, encountered bandstands, beer gardens, sparkling fountains, open-air theatres with regular performances, a fun fair, a children’s zoo, a boating pool, a dance pavilion, an aviary and numerous snack bars, tea rooms and restaurants. Two of the most memorable attractions were the ingenious Guinness Clock, which was later transported to towns and cities around the country, and the whimsical Far Tottering and Oyster Creek Railway designed by Punch cartoonist Rowland Emett. In addition to the events in London, there were exhibitions across Britain, as well as Campania, the Festival Ship that took the celebrations to coastal venues around our island. Whether or not towns and cities will want to participate in a similar manner during “our” festival remains to be seen, but if you support the idea of a future Festival of the United Kingdom it would be helpful in enabling us to take the matter further if you could write to me and say so. (Please address any letters to The Festival of the United Kingdom, This England, The Lypiatts, Lansdown Road, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire GL50 2JA, or email [email protected]) And please tell your friends about our campaign. During the next few weeks, in the quest for potential sponsors of the festival, I will be writing to various UK companies to see if we can put them on a provisional list. I also intend to sound out a few prominent public figures and ask them if they are interested in getting involved, and will be alerting the national press to our plan. Once I have received a reasonable number of letters supporting the project, I will send them to the appropriate government minister so that he or she will know that there is an appetite for such a festival. It is an ambitious enterprise but, with the massed ranks of patriotic This England readers behind it, certainly not an impossible dream: remember the important part you played recently in getting Ken Dodd his long-overdue knighthood! Once we have left the European Union, let’s fly the flag with renewed vigour and show the world just what our great country and its people are capable of! Let’s create a festival that will be recalled in years to come as the red-white-and-blue symbol of the moment when, after a strange aberration of nearly half a century, we shook off the rags of defeatism, reconnected with our glorious history and used its power and weight to propel us into a bright and bracing future for everyone. Independence here we come! THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017

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T

he contrast between the austerity of Oliver Cromwell’s England during the Interregnum and the restoration of the monarchy under King Charles II could not have been greater. Under Cromwell’s dictate even Christmas celebrations and the decking of halls with boughs of holly and ivy were forbidden, but of the reign of “Merry Monarch” Charles II one Victorian historian wrote: “Duelling and raking became the marks of a fine gentleman; honest fellows fought, gambled, swore, drank, and ended a day of debauchery by a night in the gutter.” He stressed, however, that such behaviour seemed confined to “the capital and the court”. Having been suppressed during the first 30 years of his life, Charles was determined to enjoy himself once he became King, saying that he did not believe “God would make a man miserable just for taking a little pleasure.” Charles Stuart was born on 29th May 1630 at St. James’s Palace, London, the second son and eldest surviving child of Charles I and Henrietta Maria of France. He was created Duke of Cornwall and Rothesay at birth, and at the age of eight was styled Prince of Wales and Earl of Chester. He had an idyllic early childhood, spent at Greenwich Palace, Hampton Court and Windsor Castle. Surviving Van Dyck portraits of the family show Charles as a young Prince of Wales, dressed immaculately in silk and lace, often with a pet dog. Although the paintings are undoubtedly regal, they depict scenes of domesticity that had not been evident in earlier royal portraits. In a picture dating from c.1635 by Van Dyck, Charles is with his brother the Duke of York (later James II) and sister Princess Mary (who became the mother of William III) as small children, with Charles leaning very casually against a column, his legs crossed and a spaniel by his side. Charles’s main tutor was Dr. Brian Duppa, the King’s Chaplain and later a

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bishop. Charles was not a particularly good scholar, and had only a limited grasp of languages, but became very interested in science and the discoveries of his day. His interest in chemistry was to eventually lead to the foundation of the Royal Society for scientific research. The Royal Observatory at Greenwich was also instigated by Charles when, as King, he established a Royal Commission to look into astronomy.

CHARLES II (1660-1685)

Charles’s secure world was shaken with the onset of the Civil War, which came to dominate his life. At the age of just 12 he was at the Battle of Edgehill. He accompanied his father on campaigns and was appointed a Commander-inChief of Royalist forces in the West Country at Bristol two months before his 15th birthday. Eventually he left England for his own safety, eventually settling at St. Germain near Paris with his mother. He remained there for two years. As King Charles I’s relationship with Parliament deteriorated and he was

put on trial for treason, the Prince tried unsuccessfully to save his father’s life and wrote many letters to Parliament. He was in the Netherlands when news reached him of his father’s execution. Within a few days, the Rump Parliament abolished the monarchy. Six days later Charles was proclaimed King in Scotland, but not in England. The new King took refuge in France and later the Netherlands, where he began negotiations with Scottish Covenanters, Presbyterians who held power, about establishing an army to attack Oliver Cromwell, Lord Protector of the Commonwealth and virtual dictator. In June 1650 Charles sailed to Scotland. He was crowned King of Scots at Scone on 1st January 1651 and agreed to rule England and Scotland equally. The Covenanters formed him a Scots-Royalist army and in July 1651 he headed south with some 10,000 men, but they were largely unskilled and were soundly defeated by Cromwell’s army at Worcester on 3rd September. Charles now became a fugitive with £1,000 offered by the Roundheads for anyone who could take him prisoner. Charles sheltered at White Ladies Priory in the parish of Boscobel in Shropshire, owned by the Giffard family. After an unsuccessful attempt to cross the River Severn, Charles was taken to Boscobel House, home of the Penderel family, tenants of the Giffards. There he met Colonel William Carless, a Royalist officer in the Civil War and also a fugitive, who offered to help the King escape. On 6th September 1651 the pair went to a nearby forest and hid in a great oak tree for a whole day in an attempt to avoid capture. Diarist Samuel Pepys recorded that the King had later told him about hiding in the oak, saying, “While we were in this tree we see soldiers going up and down, in the thicket of the wood, searching for persons escaped; we see them now and then peeping out of the wood.” Having successfully thwarted the Roundheads, Charles and the colonel climbed out of the tree and spent the night hiding in priest holes at Boscobel. When news of the King’s hiding place eventually became public knowledge, many inns in England were later called Royal Oak and over 400 still bear the name today. Before moving on, Charles had his long hair cut with William Penderel’s shears and darkened his skin with soot. He was helped further in his escape by a priest, Fr. John Huddleston.

On reaching Sussex some weeks later, Charles boarded a coal brig at Shoreham harbour and crossed the Channel. Once in France, he lived in exile at Fécamp. For the next nine years he travelled across Europe, staying at the homes of distant family members; living for a time with his mother in France and in Germany with his widowed sister, Mary. He had moved on to Brussels when news reached him of the death of Oliver Cromwell. The weakness of Cromwell’s successor, his son Richard, opened up a path for Charles to take his rightful place on the throne of England. Charles was in the Dutch city of Breda when negotiations came to a successful conclusion between Sir John Grenville, one of his representatives in England, and General George Monck, LordGeneral of the English army who was now effectively running the country. On 4th April 1660 a Declaration was sent from Breda promising religious tolerance and an amnesty for all in England who had committed crimes during the Civil War and the Interregnum just as long as they accepted Charles as their King. Parliament approved the Declaration, agreeing that government should be by “King, Lords and Commons” and on 8th May Charles was officially restored to the throne as King of England, Scotland and Ireland. On 29th May 1660, his 30th birthday, Charles II made a joyous return to London. Church bells rang out, flowers were strewn across the streets, bonfires were lit, and the wraith of Oliver Cromwell seemed finally to have been banished. After years of puritanical austerity, England now had hope and rejoiced that a King was back on the throne. 29th May became a public holiday, known as Oak Apple Day. Charles was crowned at Westminster Abbey on 23rd April 1661 — St. George’s Day — the last Coronation

Boscobel House and the famous Royal Oak. GRAHAM GOUGH

where the procession set off from the Tower of London. The event was delayed, as Cromwell had destroyed or broken up most of the Crown Jewels. New regalia costing £21,978-9s-11d was created by the royal goldsmith, Sir Robert Vyner, including two crowns, two sceptres, an orb, staff, armills and the ampulla, based on designs of those used by Edward the Confessor, recreated from ancient manuscripts. Many of today’s Crown Jewels date from Charles II’s time, although some have been slightly remodelled and added to across the centuries. Although he was on the throne, there remained many issues to be resolved with Parliament. England was in a poor financial state after the Commonwealth; there was religious disharmony, and an ongoing war with Spain. Charles wanted to give the country stability. Parliament granted him a fixed revenue of £1,200,000 for life, but there was insufficient income from taxes to cover this. Charles agreed to a grant of £100,000 a year instead. He had learned

Two of the many women in the King’s life: Catherine of Braganza (left) and Nell Gwyn.

from his father’s mistakes and was determined not to lose the crown, or his head, by antagonising Parliament too much at the outset of his reign. Determined to avoid further costly military conflict, he contrived to make peace with Spain. The army had suffered under the Commonwealth regime and many men had not received their salary. Charles saw that every soldier was paid his due and gave each a financial bonus of an extra week’s wages out of his own money. Although Charles had promised a pardon for past crimes in the Declaration of Breda, this did not include regicide and men involved in the execution of Charles I were tried and sentenced to death. Between 13th and 19th October 1660 some who had signed the death warrant were publicly hanged, drawn and quartered. But Charles II was not a vengeful monarch and requested that the hangings stop. At least 18 lives were spared as a result. Charles was also much more tolerant in his stance towards religion than either Cromwell or his father, although he had a secret bias towards the Catholics which did not go down well with Parliament. In 1662 Parliament passed an Act of Uniformity to ensure that England abided by Anglican doctrine and accepted the revised Book of Common Prayer. A Corporation Act stated that only people who received Anglican Holy Communion could serve on the council. This meant that Catholics, Puritans and Nonconformists could not be part of local government. Charles’s brother, James, Duke of York, failed to conform by converting to Catholicism. This created great concern for the future, as James was Charles’s heir.  THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017

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‘A ROYAL HISTORY OF ENGLAND’ (continued)

In 1672 Charles introduced a Declaration of Indulgence to negate any unfair laws passed by Parliament against Catholics. This gave freedom for people of all denominations to worship as they wanted. Churches and chapels reopened, priests returned to their flocks, and people imprisoned because of their faith were set free. John Bunyan left his prison at Bedford after 12 years. The Declaration of Indulgence proved unpopular with Parliament, which insisted that “penal statutes in matters ecclesiastical cannot be suspended but by consent of Parliament”. In retaliation, the government passed the Test Act of 1673 which excluded from all offices of State anyone who refused to take Anglican Communion. It meant that no Roman Catholic could be a Member of Parliament or sit in the House of Lords. This affected many of Charles’s ministers. The Lord Treasurer was forced to resign for being a Catholic and the King’s own brother, James, Duke of York, gave up his position as Lord High Admiral. The following year the Whig government tried to pass an Exclusion Bill in an attempt to remove the Duke of York from the line of succession. Somewhat ironically, Charles II fathered at least 16 illegitimate children by seven mistresses, but had no legitimate offspring who could succeed him. As a result, his brother was next in line. The Whigs wanted the Duke of Monmouth, Charles’s eldest natural son, to succeed instead. Charles fought this Exclusion Bill with one of his own and eventually dissolved Parliament in 1680, saying he would rather see the Duke of Monmouth hanged than legitimised. A year later he called Parliament to Oxford, where military pressure was exerted to prove that the King had power and that he was not going to be defeated like his father. It was an astute political move. In 1683 republican factions amongst the Whigs engineered the Rye House Plot, with the intention of assassinating the King and the Duke of York on their way home from the Newmarket races. The plot was thwarted when the King happened to leave Newmarket earlier than expected due to a fire at his lodgings. News of the plot had the effect of making the Whigs unpopular and the people of England became even more loyal to Charles and his brother. Although Charles took an interest in politics, he had a greater interest in horse racing and women! By the time he was 18, Charles had already been seduced by the charms of various women. His first love affair was with a

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The Great Fire of London, by an unknown artist, viewed from Tower Wharf.

Mrs. Windham, wife of the Governor of Bridgwater in Somerset. In 1649 a Lucy Walter gave birth to his son and the following year he fathered a daughter with Lady Shannon. Later in life he had liaisons with Lady Byron, the widowed Duchesse de Châtillon, Barbara Villiers, and actress Moll Davies to name but a few. His most notable mistress was Nell Gwyn, who went from orange seller in Covent Garden to comedienne at the Theatre Royal, Drury Lane. Despite his many love affairs and resulting illegitimate children, once he was monarch, Charles needed to marry and produce a legitimate heir to the throne. When the coronation was out of the way, he began to woo Catherine of Braganza, daughter of the King of Portugal. They were married on 21st May 1662 at the Church of St. Thomas à Becket in Portsmouth and honeymooned at Hampton Court. Because she was a Roman Catholic, Catherine was never crowned Queen. She did, however, bring with her a substantial dowry, and Bombay and Tangier which boosted English trade. By the end of his reign trading routes with India had been established. Perhaps because he had already bedded so many beauties, Charles found Catherine physically unattractive and the marriage was childless. He continued to turn to other ladies of the court, notably Barbara, Lady Castlemaine, with whom he had at least four children. Prince William, Duke of Cambridge, can today trace his bloodline directly back to Charles II, through his mother Diana, Princess of Wales, who had two of the

King’s illegitimate sons in her ancestry. Shortly after his marriage to Catherine of Braganza, a beautiful fair-haired girl arrived at court. Frances Stuart was a distant cousin and was appointed lady-inwaiting to Catherine. She was described as being “a great beauty with very little brain”, and Charles was instantly attracted to her. So infatuated did he become that he even contemplated divorce, but to his dismay she eventually married the Duke of Richmond. When Charles was designing a military medal for his forces, the face of Frances Stuart was used as the face of Britannia. This image was also used for the reverse side of coins and appeared on our pennies and halfpennies until 1971, when Britain adopted decimal currency. When Britannia was revived for the 2006 50p piece, she retained the original face. Sadly, in 1669 Frances Stuart contracted smallpox and the renowned beauty became permanently disfigured. Life was not all pleasure for the King and there were times when he had to face reality. In 1665 war was declared with the Dutch, reigniting an old feud over commercial rights. On 4th June 1665 the English navy sank eight Dutch battleships in the Battle of Lowestoft off the Norfolk coast. A Dutch colony in North America was captured and eventually became the English colonies of New York, New Jersey and Delaware. In June 1667 a Dutch fleet took command of the Thames estuary and sailed up to Gravesend, destroyed 13 English ships which protected the Medway near Chatham, and towed away HMS Unity and the flagship HMS Royal Charles.

War with the Dutch finally ended on 9th February 1674 with the Peace of Westminster, drawn up by Parliament which felt that no more money could be wasted on war. Relations with the Dutch were further improved when Charles’s niece, Mary, was married to Prince William of Orange. Relations with the French also improved when Charles sold Dunkirk to his cousin Louis XIV for £400,000. A group of the King’s ministers devised a Treaty of Dover in 1670, which allied England and France in any future Dutch war. Life in England also improved during Charles’s reign. Public entertainment thrived again and not only were theatres reopened, but some new ones were built. Charles loved the theatre and one of his first acts on returning to London from exile was to license two new theatres — one at Lincoln’s Inn and one in Drury Lane, where the present Theatre Royal now stands. A new Habeas Corpus Act of 1679 gave personal freedom to every Englishman. No free man could be held in prison except on a charge or conviction of a crime, or for debt, and every prisoner on a charge could demand the issue of a writ of “habeas corpus” enabling a court to judge whether he had been lawfully imprisoned. There was also greater freedom for the press. With an interest in architecture, Charles personally oversaw the restoration of buildings, such as the Palace of Whitehall, that had been stripped of their grandeur by Cromwell. Splendour returned. Windsor Castle was also extensively modernised. London, however, was hit by two

devastating events during Charles’s reign. First came the Great Plague in 1664-65, when an estimated 70,000 to 100,000 people died in a six-month period. Charles and his court moved out of the capital to the safety of Salisbury. Then on 2nd September 1666 a fire began at the premises of the King’s baker, Thomas Farriner, in Fish Yard off Pudding Lane, and spread westwards, destroying some 13,000 closely packed timber houses and shops. Fortunately only six lives were lost because the fire moved slowly, and most people had time to escape. Some 461 acres of medieval London, however, were razed to the ground in four days. The old St. Paul’s Cathedral on Ludgate Hill was destroyed, as were 87 parish churches and 57 Guild Halls. Some architects have called it a blessing in disguise, as many unhealthy slum dwellings were removed and in their place some magnificent new buildings arose, including Christopher Wren’s glorious new St. Paul’s Cathedral. In 1677 a monument to the Great Fire was erected in Pudding Lane. Diarists Samuel Pepys and John Evelyn both recorded that the King and his brother, James, personally helped put out fires in the City of London and that Charles’s face and clothes were blackened with soot and soaked with water. The King later distributed 100 guineas amongst groups of fire-fighters. Affection for the King grew as his reign progressed. He was more carefree in his attitude than his father had been. And, unlike his father, Charles did not believe in the Divine Right of Kings and so displayed more human qualities. Described by his contemporaries as a pleasant gentleman, playing with his spaniels, drawing caricatures of his ministers, throwing bread and cakes to wildfowl in the park, one of his courtiers said that Charles “delighted in a bewitching kind of pleasure called sauntering”. Samuel Pepys (an administrator in the Royal Navy) added that “the King do mind nothing but pleasures and hates the very sight or thought of business”. In the Middle Ages it was believed in England that Kings had healing powers and that a touch from royalty could cure the skin disease scrofula, known as the “King’s Evil”. Belief in the Divine Right of Kings was very strong by the time of the Stuarts and increasingly people wanted to be touched by the King. It is said that Charles II touched over 9,000 people during his reign. In 1682, Charles laid the foundation stone for a new hospital for sick and

elderly soldiers in Chelsea. The Royal Hospital became home to Chelsea Pensioners in 1692 — old soldiers in time of need “and of good character”. Founder’s Day is still celebrated every year at the Royal Hospital Chelsea on a date close to Charles’s birthday, Oak Apple Day, when a gold statue of him is adorned with oak leaves. A member of the Royal Family always attends and in 2017 it was the Princess Royal, who had a sprig of oak leaves attached to her brooch. The final years of Charles’s life were relatively uneventful, and he continued to live a life of pleasure in private. It was while dining with one of his mistresses, the Duchess of Portsmouth, in February 1685 that the King suffered an apoplectic fit. His last act was to be received into the Roman Catholic church and he made his confession and received the Sacrament. Some of the children of his mistresses gathered around the death bed at Whitehall Palace, and Charles blessed each one and pulled them onto the bed to be close to him. Witty to the end, he apologised for taking “an unconscionable time a-dying”. His last thought was of his favourite mistress, whispering to his brother and successor, “Do not let poor Nelly starve.” Royal Hospital, Chelsea. JOHN HUSBAND

His final recorded words were, “Open the curtains that I may once more see day.” He died at 11.45am on the morning of 6th February 1685 at the age of 54. After lying in state at the Palace of Westminster, a simple funeral was held on the evening of 14th February before he was laid to rest in the south aisle of Henry VII’s Chapel in Westminster Abbey. A lifesize wax effigy of the King, some 6' 2" tall, dressed in robes of the Order of the Garter complete with plumed hat, stood beside the grave for over a century. Taken from a life cast of the King’s face, it is said to be a remarkable likeness and will be on display in a new museum and gallery at Westminster Abbey due to open in 2018. PAUL JAMES

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15

English Excursions

ASKRIGG AND THE YORKSHIRE DALES

Typical Yorkshire Dales landscape, with stone walls snaking across the fields.

L

KEITH MORRIS

ahead to a relaxing, but also instructive the village, I slipped off to the football ooking for a holiday cottage for week. So, what about Askrigg? in the rain, finding the ground and a a quiet week in the Yorkshire Askrigg is a small village and civil few fans on the far side of Askrigg, Dales was proving a vexing parish in Wensleydale in the Yorkshire conveniently just before 3pm. Not experience. There were simply too Dales National Park. It is part of everything was going according to plan, many to choose from, but not many the Richmondshire district of North though. It wasn’t actually a “ground”: it providing all the creature comforts we Yorkshire. The village and parish are was the school playing field. There was were looking for: bathroom with a bath, positioned in Upper Wensleydale, 12 no cover except for my golf umbrella private garden, somewhere to park the miles west of the main town, Leyburn, and the rain was cascading down. There car, and guaranteed peace and quiet. and five miles east of Hawes, the home were no floodlights, so to my chagrin I Then my eye caught one in the small of Wensleydale cheese and presumably discovered that the game had actually village of Askrigg in Wensleydale. Wallace and Gromit. commenced an hour earlier and the What immediately struck me about The name Askrigg is of Old Norse visitors were already 5-0 up at the break. the “blurb” was that this village had origin meaning “the ridge where ash By the game’s conclusion this had been the location for much of the trees grow”, denoting the existence of stretched to an improbable 11-0. filming of the television series All Viking settlers and their farming. The Back at the cottage my wife was Creatures Great and Small in the 1970s oldest settlement probably dates back looking very relaxed and very dry and and ’80s. That sounded interesting. The to the Iron Age. The village remained gave me that knowing look, which says, pictures of the village were also very of little commercial importance through “You’re stark raving bonkers mate.” It surprising, for here was a settlement of the 13th and 14th centuries when may have been raining and I might have modest proportions, yet with imposing Wensleydale was extensively used for diverted briefly to football, but we had dwellings, which suggested importance sheep grazing by Cistercian monks, who arrived in Wensleydale and were looking in times past. This looked like a place became prosperous on the with tales to tell. profits of the wool trade. The Arriving in neighbouring local church, St. Oswald’s, was Leyburn on a Saturday built in about 1466. lunchtime, we bivouacked Askrigg was granted a in a café for eats, partly for charter by Elizabeth I in sustenance and partly for 1587 to hold a weekly market shelter from the UK weather, on a Thursday, and fairs in which was pouring down. I spring, summer and autumn. happened upon a local paper Askrigg’s prosperity peaked and spotted to my delight in the 18th century when that Askrigg’s village football trade in textiles and handteam was playing at home knitting was lucrative, the to local rivals Carperby in a village supporting craftsmen, Wensleydale League match and gaining a reputation for that afternoon; it was too good clockmaking. The earliest an opportunity to pass up. mention of Askrigg’s Advocating some “settling clockmakers was a Quaker in time” at the cottage for A view of the village. DERYCK LISTER HALLAM named John Ogden, who my wife when we arrived in

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The World of James Herriot in Thirsk, and Askrigg’s market square, with the stone pump and (right) Skeldale House.

moved there in 1680 and manufactured his clocks until 1720. The neighbourhood of Askrigg was traditionally the home of the Wensleydale Metcalfe family who lived at nearby Nappa Hall. Mary, Queen of Scots was once imprisoned in the house, possibly before being moved to Castle Bolton further down the dale. Nappa Hall is a fine example of a 15thcentury fortified manor house. The hall remained in the hands of the Metcalfes for centuries. Askrigg’s two- and three-storey stone houses and cottages line the main street, with 15th-century St. Oswald’s in the centre of the village: in the old cobbled market place, complete with market cross, erected in 1830, stone pump and an iron bull ring set into the cobbles. This square is a feature of the village, with bench seating arranged around the solid bulk of the pump: a nice place to

Taking a walk up and down the main street for the first time, what impressed us was the imposing nature of many of the buildings, several three-storey-high stone houses. It had the appearance of a street in a substantial town rather than the main street through a small village and was indicative of a prosperous past. One of the local pubs, the Crown Inn, has been known under this name since the 1850s and there has been an inn at the site since the late 18th century. John Pratt, a local, who made a fortune as a jockey, built the other pub, the Kings Arms, in 1767 as a coaching inn. Pratt was a racehorse breeder and master of the Askrigg Harriers during the 18th century. According to the 2001 Census, Askrigg had a population of 411. The village has a rich history as a former market town, but in more recent years it has been notable as the fictional Darrowby in the BBC TV series already mentioned based on the books of veterinary surgeon Alf Wight who wrote under the pseudonym James Herriot.

tarry a while and watch the world pass, especially when the sun is shining on the righteous. The bull ring dates from the 18th century and earlier, when bulls were tied here, then attacked or baited with dogs. A local historian wrote that, “It used to be a custom in Askrigg for a man who wanted to fight to go and turn the bull ring over; if another man felt the same, he came and turned it back and they had a fight.” It occurs to me that the unsuspecting and curious could get themselves lined up for a good pasting by just touching something that perhaps they shouldn’t. I left well alone. Our cottage for the week was a stone’s throw from the church; in fact the church tower could be seen from the upstairs bedroom window. Turning left out of the cottage brought us to the main square in a few strides, and right opposite, next to the village store and post office, was an imposing three-storey building, which we later discovered was the veterinary surgery in the TV series; more of that later. We never saw any sign of life at the house during our stay and it was apparently up for sale in July 2011.

Christopher Timothy, Robert Hardy and Lynda Bellingham in two scenes from All Creatures Great and Small; the dispensary at The World of James Herriot; Gayle Beck in the centre of Hawes.

CHRISTOPHER NICHOLSON

MOVIESTORE COLLECTION LTD / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

 THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017

17

‘ENGLISH EXCURSIONS’ (continued)

Curious England

Rutland hosts a Every May, Stretton in nship. Nurdling pio am World Nurdling Ch Ages, with le dd Mi the to k dates bac pennies onto a old ing competitors throw seat. drilled hole in a wooden

Filming commenced in the autumn of 1977. The leading role was played by Christopher Timothy, with the irascible Siegfried Farnon portrayed by Robert Hardy and his younger brother, the work-shy Tristan, by Peter Davison. With plenty of screen-time to fill, the series quickly became more of an ensemble show, developing all the characters considerably. In particular, the role of Tristan grew significantly. This was partly because Christopher Timothy was injured in a car accident part-way through the first series and was, as a result, restricted to studio scenes, which required the location scenes to be rewritten and given to Davison. The programme initially ran for three seasons until 1980, with the characters drawn into the Second World War, but was revived in 1988 after the BBC persuaded Alf Wight to allow new scripts to be written. The revival ran for four more series, taking the characters into the early 1950s. The final broadcast was a 1990 Christmas Special. The programme was filmed on location in North Yorkshire, with some scenes shot at Bolton Castle, and in Askrigg. The Kings Arms Hotel, which became the Drover’s Arms on screen, contains photographs of the cast drinking at the establishment during breaks in filming. We spent a very pleasant Friday evening at The Kings Arms, where we enjoyed a superior supper, took in the memorabilia and half-expected an inebriated Tristan to come staggering through the door on one of his frequent pub crawls. The building that doubled as Skeldale House, the veterinary surgery in the

Two views of the River Ure near Aysgarth. DERYCK LISTER HALLAM

series, is, as already mentioned, located in the main square. The original set of the interior of the surgery is now at the Richmondshire Museum in Richmond and is open to the public. Other extensive parts, including the living room and dispensary are displayed at The World of James Herriot in Thirsk. Askrigg was our base for the week, as we set out to explore the Dales, so we saw much more besides Askrigg. In Hawes we saw the extraordinary sight of a river in spate right in the town centre and later the same day the even more spectacular Aysgarth Falls, which featured in the film Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves (1991), as Robin and Little John make hay with staves in the middle of the falls. We also went to Richmond, with its massive, cobbled market-square, which features in the opening scene of All Creatures. Middleham was also a memorable teatime visit one afternoon, this being a bit of a mecca for any aficionado of Richard III. Another highlight of the trip was going to see the Settle and Carlisle Railway and the breathtaking feat of construction that is the Ribblehead Viaduct. No visit to this part of the world would be complete without a long stare at this leviathan, which cost the lives of so many navvies. Visiting England’s highest station at Dent was also something to tell the folks back home about; such a pretty, tidy station for such a remote and exposed place.

PAUL RIDSDALE

It was amazing what Victorian railway engineers achieved. Regrettably we didn’t actually travel on the Settle-Carlisle, so didn’t traverse the viaduct, but we tried to make up for this a little by experiencing the charm of the little Wensleydale Railway before the week was out, taking a ride to the pretty town of Bedale. But it was Askrigg where we started and where we should finish. There were few regrets about our stay. Although it had rained torrentially on arrival, that had been it for the week and we had enjoyed fine weather thereafter. That was good going in these parts so locals told us. Askrigg proved to be a perfect location for exploring the Dales and was also a lovely place to return to each evening; the associations with a still-popular TV series made it all the more enjoyable. On returning home, one of the first things we did was buy a box set of the first three series of All Creatures Great and Small, luxuriating in memories, both real and imagined. STEVE ROBERTS A train approaches Ribblehead station. ANDRIA MASSEY

Further Information Richmondshire Museum, Ryders Wynd, Richmond, Yorkshire DL10 4JA Tel: 01748 825611 www.richmondshiremuseum.org.uk

Walkers make their way towards the Ribblehead Viaduct.

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GORDON GADSBY

The World of James Herriot, 23 Kirkgate, Thirsk, Yorkshire YO7 1PL Tel: 01845 524234 www.worldofjamesherriot.com

IT’S A SNAIL’S PACE IN TWICKENHAM

A

few years ago, when a quiet old lady who had lived in my street in Twickenham passed away, to everyone’s astonishment among her belongings were discovered a cache of weapons. It later emerged that she had been involved with the Nazi interrogations after the war and was a Cold War spy! It occurred to me that the older generation go to great lengths to conceal their colourful pasts, so, fascinated by the — to me — secret and mysterious world of the local allotments, I decided to try and assemble a group of elderly gentlemen to pose for an oil painting. The idea I had was for them to be gambling, drinking and yelling over a snail race in an allotment shed: a scene reminiscent of the Russian roulette incident in the film, The Deer Hunter. I contacted the Richmond and Twickenham Times newspaper about my project, and they kindly ran an article calling for gentlemen gardeners over the age of 80. The response was huge! I decided to choose a group that all came from the same allotment. The men and their families were over the moon to be involved with the project, so a date was arranged for a sitting in my back garden. I had a long checklist of things I wanted them to do, such as waving beer bottles, ripping up betting slips, waving wads of money and shaking their fists. They all had a fantastic time, posing and shouting and alarming the neighbourhood, before finishing off with cakes, scones and brandy. When the brandy bottles on the table were drunk dry, I drove them all home. What an interesting group they were! MORGAN PENN THE GARDENERS Bill (cutting the tomatoes), 97, a veteran of Dunkirk. Endured being dive-bombed and machine-gunned by Stukas while protecting the perimeter of the beach. After several days with no sleep, he was eventually pulled on board a ship by his equipment straps and taken back to Britain. Len (waistcoat), 93, rear gunner on a Lancaster bomber, survived 32 missions over various industrial targets and submarine bases and two plane crashes. Peter (waving the money), 83, royal chauffeur, and drove Dick Van Dyke to the set of Mary Poppins. Peter (lifting hat), 82, accidentally set fire to all his neighbours’ sheds. It took four fire crews to take back control. Richard (fishing hat), 82, Commander on three warships between the wars, and was the Queen’s Messenger at the Foreign Office. Geoff (front left), 87, maths teacher. Kenneth (front centre), worked at Watneys brewery in Barnes, until a beer barrel fell on his head — he assured everyone that there was no longterm damage!

THE ARTIST Morgan Penn is a self-taught artist based in London. He has exhibited at the National Portrait Gallery, the Scottish National Portrait Gallery and at the Royal Society of Portrait Painters. He was the winning artist on the BBC’s Star Portraits TV series and is featured in the National Portrait Gallery’s “500 Portraits”. He has painted Adam Ant, Johnny Vegas, Bob Mortimer, Adrian Edmonson, Bernie Ecclestone with his daughters, amongst many others. He is a pioneer in stereo painting and optical colour mixing. You can find more of his work at: www.morganpenn.com

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19

In England — NOW!

Toby carefully packs and stacks the crab and lobster pots on the deck.

Celebrating English achievement, enterprise and creativity in the 21st century

S

elsey in West Sussex has a strong fishing heritage with its fleet of vessels at anchor either side of the slipway by the RNLI’s Lifeboat Station. They are reached each day by small tenders from the beach. Shellfish is popular with tourists in the summer months, so the fishermen have ample opportunities to source local restaurants and pubs with their daily catches. The Selsey crab has an established name within the fishing industry similar to that of Cromer in Norfolk and Ventnor on the Isle of Wight. It is something that the town’s fishermen are proud of, and the name helps promote their crabs around the region. Established fishing families including the Langfords, Harveys, Delahauntys, Wilsons, Birketts and Reeves have worked this part of the coast for generations. Grandfather to father to son have carried on fishing from the town’s shingle beaches. Behind the promenade are their working huts where they prepare the shellfish ready for sale — along with a couple of fish wholesalers.

The fishermen know each other well, and do share their concerns relating to the industry. As one fisherman said, “Rest assured if anyone was in trouble at sea, we would all be there to help each other.” Dan Langford is a 21-year-old third generation fisherman and one of the youngest to fish from Selsey.

pot buoy is found with the help of a searchlight and hauled on board. It is teamwork at its best, and all runs smoothly. “One of the problems that we encountered today was that in one haul half of the pots were filled with pungent grey-coloured silt. These pots had no whelks, resulting in no income. It takes us extra time and strength to remove this silt from the heavy-weighted pots,” said Dan. After four more whelk trawls they went further out into the Channel whilst at the same time bagging up the whelks and washing the deck down and preparing the bait, ready for more pots. Crabs and lobsters were next on the list. Each pot is opened and the measuring gauge was used. The base skin was also checked for softness and if any did not meet the specification they were returned to the sea. “It was not a good day,” said Dan as we returned to our mooring. “We were at sea for six hours and caught a quartertonne of whelks, 50 kilos of crabs and five kilos of lobster. Fishing just two miles off the coast we would have expected to do a lot better. “Once back on the mooring the catch is transferred to the tender and bought back to the shore. The whelks are then dropped off at one of the two fish wholesalers and the crabs and lobsters taken to my dad’s unit, Selsey Willows, where they are shelled and packed by

The Fishermen of Selsey

Returning an undersized crab to the sea.

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“My current boat Rapid Return L177, is a Colvic Fast Cat 38-foot fishing boat that was built in Poole, Dorset, in 1989. I have had it for 15 months after buying it from its previous owner who fished with it from Milford Haven. It is well equipped with two plotters, radar, two VHF radios as well as a GPS Navigator.” It was at 6am that Dan and his crew Brad Shaw (second hand) and Toby Fairminer (third hand) moved the tender down the timber runners over the gravel bank loaded with bait and supplies into the sea and motored in the darkness towards Rapid Return’s mooring. After boarding, they got underway. Dan finds his pots by using his Global Positioning System (GPS). The first

the experienced Michael, who fished in Dan, Brad and Toby Dave and the days of sail. aboard Rapid Return. Rhiannon. Once processed they go into our cold storage units ready for delivery to our local outlets.” Weather is a major problem along this part of the coast. Strong easterly winds mean that at times they need to moor up in Chichester Harbour as they cannot launch from Selsey. “People seem to forget that weather acts as a quota,” explained Dan, “In the past few weeks we have only been able to go to sea for a couple of days. The forecast looks the same next week; later today I will take Rapid fisherman called Bert Holm; we used Return into Chichester to keep her out willow pots attached to seven-fathom of harm’s way. lines with corks at every fathom. “Currently we fish within the threeSometimes we used to say ‘It’s a soldier’s mile limit — whelking inside the twowind’ and then put our sails up — we did mile — then pot between the two- and not have a lot of pots like they use now three-mile. We also go mid-Channel to — 10 was often our maximum and being fish for crab and lobsters. It can take up willow there were often issues retrieving to three hours to get there, and it is very them. In my day more people went much based on weather and tides. We prawning with a small ketch; there were can stay up to 10 hours. It makes for a more punts, as we called them, rather very long day, sometimes up to 17 hours than crabbers. with very early starts.” “We used to come in and then get Dan started fishing at the age of 15, on our bikes and cycle seven miles into going out with his dad in their Orkney Chichester with our prawns and put 21 ft. Fast Liner called Lauren Dan. them on the train to Billingsgate Fish “It was too small for the both of us Market, then cycle back home, which we so the next step was to get a Holton 24 did every time we went to sea.” called Coralie Dawn from Alderney in Richard, his son, came in with him the Channel Islands.” and they had a French crabber called They fished that for four years prior Pisces, and worked together for eight to getting their current boat Rapid years. “It does not happen now. After Return. school the children used to come down “We needed this as we had to go a lot and help out on the fishing boats, further out into the Channel — it has washing them down, unloading fish proved to be an excellent and reliable and at times going to sea. Sadly now working boat. I am glad I made the it appears to be computer games and decision to follow my dad — I have no mobile-phone texts.” regrets going into fishing. I like it but Selsey lifeboat has played an like any job there are worries. It’s hard important part in the family with all work and you know you have got to earn having been crew members; Dan is money all the time. My partner Isla who currently on the crew. There is a new comes from a fishing family background boathouse to house the latest designed and I want to settle down together and Shannon lifeboat which will launch from eventually get our own house. I think the beach (see the article on page 69). she knows what she is taking on,” said There are exciting plans for the future Dan with a smile. for the Langfords: an expansion into the The future is what it is all about regional farmers’ markets. with the Langford family. Grandfather “It is something we have been looking Michael still likes to keep his eye on at for a while now,” said Richard. “I things. recently acquired from retired fisherman “My how things have changed now Shaun Connors his company called the family is in its third generation. Selsey Willows Seafood. In the New I started fishing by working with a Year I will concentrate on running this

The crew work together to haul pots, riddle the whelks and put fresh bait in the pots.

side of the business whilst Dan will run Langford Lobsters. “Farmers’ markets seem to be part of community life across the region and I will be visiting about 12 of them a month in Sussex and Surrey. The idea is to take the fish direct to the customer, cutting out the middle man. People love fresh fish and if laid out and presented properly on a nice market stall it attracts a lot of interest. People visit these markets to buy a full range of country produce, and we fit nicely into this.” JOHN PERIAM Photographs by GEOFFREY LEA

Shaun Connors (left) and Richard Langford at Chichester Farmers’ Market on the Selsey Willows Seafood stall.

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21

Literary Landscapes of England

ELIHU BURRITT: An American’s View of Victorian England

The view across the South Staffordshire countryside, from above the village of Enville, looking towards Shropshire. Inset, Elihu Burritt. GRAHAM GOUGH

I

t is always interesting to read what others think of us. In recent years we have had Bill Bryson giving us his thought-provoking views on England and the English, but a century and a half ago one of his compatriots did the same thing, albeit for a specific area of the country. This man was Elihu Burritt, who was the United States Consul in

Birmingham at the time and his consular duties obliged him to travel extensively all over Birmingham, the adjoining Black Country and many of the rural areas of Warwickshire, Worcestershire, Staffordshire and Shropshire. In 1868 he published a book about these journeys called Walks in the Black Country and its Green Borderland.

Elihu Burritt viewed the substantial remains of Wenlock Priory in Shropshire “...with its ranks of pillars and arches.”

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On Birmingham Town Hall: “This is the most symmetrical and classical building in England; and looks like one of the grand edifices of ancient Greece...It has played a grea t part in forming the public spirit and character of Birmingham.”

Elihu Burritt was in many ways a remarkable man. He came from a humble background, born the son of a labourer in New Britain, Connecticut, in 1810. At the age of 16 he was apprenticed to a blacksmith and soon acquired the nickname of the “learned blacksmith” because of his thirst for knowledge. He had an enormous appetite for books and, for someone of little formal education, developed a surprising fluency in several languages. Later he became a well-respected crusader for world peace and travelled widely throughout America and Europe, attending international congresses and writing numerous books, articles and pamphlets. He also widened his activities to include other worthy contemporary causes, including the antislavery campaign in his own country and the temperance movement. One cause that he espoused was the promotion of a

The architecture of Birmingham Town Hall, in Victoria Square, drew favourable comment from Elihu Burritt. PETER BAKER

cheap universal postal system, believing that greater communication amongst peoples and nations could lessen the likelihood of war in the future. In 1865 Abraham Lincoln appointed him to the post of United States Consul in Birmingham and during his five years in the job he took up residence in Harborne, at the time still a rural village and now a pleasant suburb on the south side of the city. The house in which he lived, which he named “New Britain Villa” after his American birthplace, still stands in Victoria Road. Nearby is Harborne’s medieval church in which he worshipped. In his book he describes the congregation coming “across the broad fields that converge from every direction into the solemn aisles of the churchyard trees”. Even now this part of Harborne manages to retain much of its previous village atmosphere with the old church flanked by a bowling green and the Bell Inn. If Elihu Burritt was a remarkable man, his book is equally remarkable, painting a detailed picture not only of Birmingham and the Black Country, then at the zenith of its industrial greatness, but also of the “green borderland”, as Burritt called it, the countryside that surrounded the industrial conurbation. The opening sentence gives a vivid description of the Black Country that has been widely quoted: The Black Country, black by day and red by night, cannot be matched, for vast and varied production, by any other space of equal radius on the surface of the globe.

After initial chapters on Birmingham — its industries, its leading citizens, major buildings and institutions — he goes on to describe the towns and industries of the Black Country and the final chapters are devoted to the green borderland, through which Burritt took a number of long-distance walks. His descriptions of these rural areas are particularly glowing. He writes:

“But of all the manufacturers in Birm ingham none has such a wide repu tation abroad, in America especially, as Gillott’s Stee l Pens. Happily there are a hundred ‘young ideas taught to shoot’ with a pen where one is taught to shoot with a gun. Pens are the knitting needles of civilization, and ply in all its webs of social life and literature.”

unbridled enthusiasm for what he saw on his travels throughout the Midlands. Referring to the Lickeys, a small range of hills rising to just under 1,000 feet on the south-west outskirts of the city, he says: ... these remarkable hills look as if transported from the Highlands...they are perfectly Scotch in cut and clothing.

Now many Brummies have a deep affection for the Lickey Hills, a favourite weekend and bank holiday destination, especially in the days before most people had a car, but even the most patriotic of them would think that comparing them with the Scottish Highlands is perhaps going a bit too far.

This over-exaggeration is not just confined to the attractive countryside, old churches and other undoubtedly fascinating historic places that he visited. He gives lavish descriptions of three of Birmingham’s residential suburbs, including the one in which he lived. He writes: Moseley, Edgbaston and Harborne..... are as goodly suburbs as any town in England can show. Hills, dales, gentle slopes, valleys and streams, make a picturesque scenery. The residences of many of the prosperous businessmen of the borough are interspersed in the landscape, and the ornamental grounds form a pleasant feature. Edgbaston especially is full of these elegant houses and gardens.

The Four Stones on the summit of the Clent Hills, were described by Burritt as: “...the breathing ground of the miners and forgers and the other sooty workers of the Black Country.”

The Black Country is beautifully framed by a Green Borderland and that border is rich and redolent with two beautiful wealths — the sweet life of Nature’s happiest springs and summers, and the hive and romance of England’s happiest industries.

This last quotation indicates that, like many English writers of the Victorian era, Burritt was prone to go over the top, which in many ways is an admirable quality and the result of his curiosity and

 THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017

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‘LITERARY LANDSCAPES OF ENGLAND’ (continued)

Curious England

in England is The The longest pub name Astley Volunteer Old Thirteenth Cheshire lybridge. Sta at Inn Rifleman Corps

Burritt said of Lichfield that it “...looks like a city of steeples on approaching it in any direction.”

As someone who spent much of his youth walking and cycling through these areas of the city, it is pleasing that much of what he wrote about them in the 1860s still holds good today. Of particular interest to me are his comments on my old school, Moseley Grammar School, which had only recently been built as a training college for Nonconformist ministers. He describes it as a “noble edifice” erected on a “beautiful and picturesque site” and compares it favourably with the buildings of his native Yale and Harvard. On most of his long walks through the Midlands countryside Burritt was

accompanied by the poet Edward Capern, who also lived in Harborne at the time. Capern was born in Devon where he had been a postman and, like Burritt, was a self-taught man with an enormous thirst for knowledge. The two men, the “learned blacksmith” and the “postman poet” had a strict walking routine which most walkers nowadays would find a little strange. Many of their walks were done in November, not usually thought of as the best month in England for embarking upon lengthy hikes. Also they used to start late in the day at a time of year when the days are at their shortest. Burritt would spend the morning writing up the previous

The church at Tong, in Shropshire, was likened to a “...village Westminster Abbey.”

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On Lichfield Cathedral: “Having visited all the cathedrals of Great Britain, and studied them with all the interest of American admiration for such structures, I am inclined to believe that this exceeds all others in the quality of bea uty, both in its exterior and interior structur e and embellishment.”

day’s activities, after which they would take a light lunch and walk until dusk, sometimes not reaching their intended destination until well after dark. Strangely for a man born and bred in New England, an area renowned throughout the world for the unique beauty of its fall, he is particularly complimentary about the English autumn,

Burritt was impressed by the ruins of the Roman city of Viroconium, near Wroxeter, “...once a goodly city under several Roman emperors.”

frequently commenting that it was his favourite season in England. He writes: The scenery in England in the autumn cannot be equalled by that of any other country.

When describing the view from the summit of the Wrekin, he comments: The mellowest sun in an English autumn was descending the western horizon and no other autumn sun the wide world round equals it.

On their journeys Elihu Burritt and his companion visited many of the wellknown beauty spots and places of historic and architectural interest in the Midlands. These included the Clent and Lickey Hills, Stratford-upon-Avon, the castles at Warwick and Kenilworth, Lichfield Cathedral, Wenlock Priory, the Roman remains at Wroxeter and the Ironbridge Gorge. They also climbed the Wrekin and were particularly fascinated by their visit to Boscobel House where Charles II hid from Cromwell’s troops after his defeat at the Battle of Worcester in 1651. After reading Burritt’s book I was inspired to visit some of the places that he did and walk some of his routes. This was not easy as his book was not a walking guide. Except in a few cases I could not follow his exact routes as many of the country lanes and rough tracks that he would have used are now busy main roads. Also many of his country walks began from his home in Harborne — then a rural village on the edge of Birmingham — and the surrounding countryside is now covered by the city’s expanding suburbs. But the book made an ideal companion as it is a unique piece of social history, written from the perspective of a foreign visitor and providing both an affectionate and sympathetic insight into an area of England that was — and still is — a mixture of urban and rural landscapes. Perhaps it is appropriate to finish with a quotation in which Elihu Burritt explains the aim of the book. It is intended, he writes:

The Wrekin in autumn — Elihu Burritt’s favourite English season and one of his cherished Midlands places. JOHN HAYWARD

“On a beautiful afternoon of the last of November, Capern accepted the challenge, and, having measured walking-stic ks, we set out to see a segment of the border-land between Stourbridge and Wolverh ampton in order to complete the wes tern semi-circle of the Black Country. It was one of the shortest days of the year, and at two o’clock the sun had nearly finished the small arc it was describing a little way above the southern horizon; but it was shining its best and loveliest.”

In Burritt’s view, Kenilworth in Warwickshire, “...perhaps stands at the head of all old English castles.”

...to give distant readers a bird’s-eye view of the district of which it treats, and, perhaps present a few points and aspects of interest which some persons residing within it may have overlooked.

I think he achieved that goal! BRIAN CONDUIT

Further Information Walks in the Midlands Countryside around Birmingham and the Black Country: Tracing the Journeys of a 19th-Century Writer, is written by Brian Conduit and published by Sigma Leisure. THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017

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by Rosemary Pettigrew

T

he long, hot days of summer are drawing to a close and much as I have enjoyed the dry weather my garden hasn’t. There are brown patches on the lawn and I’ve had to let it grow quite long again so it doesn’t get more stressed by constant cutting. Perennials and annuals have been drooping their heads, my apple leaves have been scorched and the strawberries never plumped out. On the plus side the roses haven’t had their blooms spoilt by rain, there appear to be fewer slugs and the currants ripened quickly. I’ll be quite glad of a respite from all the watering. Fortunately (at the time of writing) there is no hosepipe ban so I’ve been able to use the sprinkler. I do wish someone would invent a hosepipe that doesn’t kink though — my hosepipe always seems to bend and stop the water flow when I pull it out. In the spring issue I included a quote from the great garden designer Gertrude Jekyll that stated that a garden teaches patience. I am a great admirer of Gertrude Jekyll and her work but I’m a very impatient gardener. I give plants a year or two to flourish and if they start to look sickly or fail to crop I dig them up and try them somewhere else. I was going to use this kill-or-cure method on some raspberry canes that I planted several years ago. I planted “Malling Jewel” (summer fruiting) and “All Gold” (autumn fruiting). The autumn-fruiting ones were fine but the summer ones have hardly produced anything. I deemed them a failure and was going to dig them up, but I got behind with my other tasks so I left them. This year, despite the dry conditions, they have been smothered in fruit! So Gertrude Jekyll was right.

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MARTINE PEACOCK

Notes from a Cottage Garden

AQUILEGIA ALERT One of my favourite cottage garden plants is under threat — the aquilegia or granny’s bonnet. This spring I noticed that I had fewer aquilegias in the garden, and some that were growing had distorted leaves. I put it down to the late frosts we had had but then I discovered a far more sinister reason — ADM or Aquilegia Downy Mildew. This fungus has spread rapidly and has wiped out the wonderful National Collections of Aquilegia at Touchwood Nurseries, Killay, Swansea. ADM flourishes in cool damp conditions, just as potato blight does. Affected plants show irregular yellowish patches on the leaves and purple blotching on the stems. The leaves curl and become distorted and eventually the whole plant shrivels and dies. The spores of the mildew are on the underside of the leaf and can be difficult to spot in dry weather but they appear as white/purple in damp conditions. There is no known control and plants with ADM should be disposed of as quickly as possible — either by burning or burying. They should not be put in the compost bin. For further advice go to the very useful website of Touchwood Nurseries: www.touchwoodplants.co.uk My story has a happy ending as it was the frost that was causing the problem because other aquilegias in the garden have flowered as usual. However, I will be keeping a very watchful eye on them in the future.

SCOTTS OF STOW

JOHN BLAKE

new

QUIRKY IDEAS Put tiny doors and windows on an old tree stump or some terracotta pots to entrance young and old alike. You can buy ready-made doors and windows (including some that even light up at night!) from certain retail shops, and there is a wide selection available online. There really can be fairies living at the bottom of your garden.

Plant of the Season Japanese maple

‘To Do’ List

t plant daffodils last year bu ❁ More bulb planting: I did nt I think the fact I didn’t pla quite a few came up blind. n so been part of the rea them till October may have bulbs in by the end of so this year I plan to get the our “Gifts” section (pages September. The examples in 86-87) look interesting! joyed a bumper crop of ❁ Dig up potatoes: I’ve en uke of York” which has potatoes — particularly “D oes with a great taste. produced lovely floury potat d I need to dig them all up an Before the slugs get them . store them in hessian bags The fruiting canes need ❁ Cut raspberry canes: the new shoots tied in. I’ll cutting to ground level and st pose of the ones that persi also have to dig up and dis in moving away. year I collected as many ❁ Empty leaf mould: Last . put them in a compost bin fallen leaves as I could and t and spread it as a mulch Now is the time to dig it ou round the borders.

ROY J. WESTLAKE

Grown in Japan for hundreds of years, the first specimen came to England in 1820. Since then these small trees have become a very popular garden plant as their graceful shape and vibrant autumn foliage make them an ideal focal point. Today there are numerous cultivars with different shapes, sizes and colours of leaves. Plant in the autumn in well drained and slightly acidic soil. The foliage is prone to frost and wind damage so it is best to provide shelter. The red and purple varieties do need sun to develop the colour while the variegated and green need partial shade to avoid scorching. They work well in a border because their root system isn’t invasive but make sure they aren’t crowded. Keep them moist but not waterlogged and mulch with well-rotted manure, ensuring that the manure doesn’t come into contact with the collar of the plant.

Slow growing, Japanese maples are also ideal for containers but should be repotted every couple of years in just a slightly larger pot. The compost should be ericaceous or John Innes No. 2. There are so many varieties to choose from including “Bloodgood” (rich purple with deeply cut leaves, grows to 12ft); “Emerald Lace” (bright green, finely dissected leaves that turn orange in autumn, grows to 12ft), “Garnet” (feathery red leaves, grows to 6ft) and “Dissectum” (cascading habit, green, lacy leaves that turn fiery red in autumn, ideal for containers).

Gardens to Visit

Chillingham Castle, Chillingham, Alnwick, Northumberland NE66 5NJ. A 12th-century castle surrounded by beautiful gardens, lakes and woodlands. The chance to see a wide variety of wildlife, including deer, red squirrels and a herd of wild cattle. Knightshayes Court, Tiverton, Bolham, Devon EX16 7RQ. The arboretum and woods are glowing with colour at this time of year. Other attractions include a Victorian walled kitchen garden, quirky topiary and the famous garden in the woods.

PAUL I. MAKEPEACE

LINDSEY MULRAINE

(Acer palmatum)

Ness Botanic Gardens, Neston Road, Little Neston, Cheshire CH64 4AY. Created from 1898 by the Liverpool cotton merchant, Arthur Kilpin Bulley, who was a passionate plant collector. It is now home to the national collection of rowans with over 500 varieties which are spectacular in autumn.

I would be delighted to receive your comments, questions and advice, so please e-mail me at [email protected] or write to our editorial office: This England, The Lypiatts, Lansdown Road, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire GL50 2JA. THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017

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Reaching for the Skies

Inspired by the brothers of an airman who was killed in a raid over Germany in 1944, a Lancaster bomber is being painstakingly restored as a memorial to his courage and sacrifice MARTIN KEEN

I

his last posting being 433 Squadron at Skipton-on-Swale in North Yorkshire. In his autobiography Fred describes how Christopher “seemed to age overnight”. The Nuremberg raid on 31st March saw the heaviest loss that Bomber Command endured on any night during the Second World War. Ninety-four aircraft including Lancaster and Halifax bombers were lost with 500 airmen killed. This was Christopher’s 30th and final mission. Had he lived, he would have probably survived the war. The aircraft was flying at 20,000 feet on a bright moonlit night when it was attacked by a German night fighter. The starboard inner engine caught fire and flames swept past the rear turret of the Halifax. When the extinguishers failed, the pilot Chris Nielsen sent the plane into a steep dive in a desperate attempt to put it out. Nielsen managed to pull out of the initial dive, but his inexperienced second pilot then “feathered” the good engine by mistake and they lost power, causing the aircraft to spiral out of control. Only three of the eight-man crew bailed Christopher Panton in RAF uniform and his brothers Fred and Harold out safely that night: whose dream is well on the way to being fulfilled. ALAN/KAY MARKHAM Jack McClauchlan, the rear gunner (Canadian), Harry Cooper the wireless operator (Canadian) and Christian Nielsen, who was Danish. Edward Panton took his son’s death very badly. “My father took a long while, many, many years, before he got over it,” said Fred. However, Fred always fostered the idea of having

n March 1944 Christopher Whitton Panton was shot down and killed on a bombing raid over Nuremberg. He was 19. His two younger brothers, Fred and Harold, were determined as they grew up to find a suitable memorial for their older brother and something that would commemorate the tremendous loss of lives endured by Bomber Command during the Second World War. Christopher, the son of Edward and Frances Panton, was the oldest of eight children, consisting of four boys and four girls. Like many young men, he joined the ATC (Air Training Corps) in 1942 and later volunteered for aircrew. He was accepted and after training passed out as a flight engineer; by 1943 he was flying. He was assigned to Halifax bombers and flew with Canadians,

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MARTIN KEEN

a memorial to his brother. He suggested to his father they bought one of the surplus Halifax bombers being sold at the end of the war. They were going cheap at the time and Fred thought one could be stationed on the farm. His father wouldn’t entertain the idea, as he “wanted nothing more to do with the war”. He didn’t even want Fred to visit Christopher’s grave in Germany and photograph it. Eventually he relented and Fred was able to visit the crash site high on a hillside near the village of Friesen where it was still possible to gather pieces of his brother’s aircraft into a plastic bag. He also went to a cemetery near a very small village called Butenheim where the bodies were first buried before they were reinterred at Durnbach war cemetery, near Munich. Here 3,000 airmen are buried row upon row. “While I was looking at the grave,” Fred said, “all of those memories of the war years and all my memories of my brother came flooding back.” His father finally was able to view a photograph of his son’s grave. His loss had been immense. Edward was to die a year later, finally reconciled to his son’s death. This visit to the grave had reawakened Fred and Harold’s interest in creating a memorial to their brother and all the men who served in Bomber Command. They set about purchasing a Lancaster NX611, a Second World War bomber which came up for sale in 1972 at Squire Gate auction in Blackpool. Despite some initial bidding, the aircraft didn’t reach its reserve price and the aircraft was removed from the auction. Later it transpired that it had been privately sold to Rt. Hon. Lord Lilford. Fred and Harold were at first disappointed, but had a reassurance from Lord Lilford that they would have first refusal if ever the aircraft was sold again. Meanwhile the two brothers continued to develop a very successful poultry business. They

even managed to purchase part of a former aerodrome at RAF East Kirkby in 1982 which was adjacent to their farm and set about restoring a number of wartime buildings including the control tower. They then erected a large T2 hangar and again went in search of a Lancaster. Good news was to follow. Lord Lilford, who had bought the NX611 with the intention of keeping her flying, discovered that her airworthiness certificate had expired. He knew the prohibitive cost of restoration, so decided eventually to sell the aeroplane. By this time it was stationed as gate guardian at RAF Scampton, near Lincoln. In September 1983, NX611 was finally purchased by Fred and Harold, and four years later, after completing an agreed total of 10 years as gate guardian, the Lancaster was brought to her new home in East Kirkby. Here she was reassembled by the RAF. The brothers nicknamed this 16-ton aircraft with a giant wingspan of 102 feet, Just Jane, after a popular newspaper wartime pin-up. It seemed all the lengthy preparation for her homecoming had been well timed. Lancaster NX611 landing at RAF Scampton in 1967.

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‘REACHING FOR THE SKIES’ (continued)

The restoration work on Just Jane is now being overseen by Andrew Panton (left) of The Lincolnshire Aviation Heritage Centre. Photographs: MARTIN KEEN

George “Johnnie” Johnson, last British survivor of No. 617 Squadron which famously took part in the Dambusters raid of 1943, has taken a keen interest in the project. Here he is with another Second World War veteran (in flying kit) Flight Lieutenant Russell “Rusty” Waughman.

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The Lancaster taxiing on the grass, “Johnnie” Johnson have spent around £700,000 so far,” Work started on her restoration beside the machine he knew so well and (below) crowds Andrew tells me. and by 1993, with the help of admire the magnificent aeroplane. MARTIN KEEN The main money-making former RAF engineers, they had all revenue comes from providing four Merlin engines running. This thunderous bone-shaking taxi was a major feat, considering each rides down the runway, an engine consisted of 11,000 parts. unprecedented experience for Today, Just Jane is undergoing any aviation enthusiast at £325 a a mammoth restoration with trip. the aim of making her only the Finding parts creates another third airworthy Lancaster flying challenge. “It can be very difficult anywhere in the world. During to find Lancaster specific parts but the winter period the aircraft it’s surprising what people keep will undergo a complete strip in a garage. We’ve had electroand repaint, which will facilitate pneumatic valves from Australia, an assessment of the aircraft’s prop blades from America and aluminium skin and permit undercarriage parts from Canada engineers to survey the airframe to name just a few,” he says. and to find any problems and Despite these concerns, 2017 correct them. To get the final heralds another significant step Certificate of Airworthiness, which forward to seeing the aircraft is the ultimate goal, will still involve reaching for the skies. This will taking everything apart, cleaning it, be the first time in 40 years that visually checking it and fixing any the airframe has been properly broken pieces. Key components surveyed for any problems and will need to be screened by x-ray will be a significant advance in and ultra-sound for weakness; only seeing the plane move forward to then can reassembling and testing airworthy condition. take place. Some 7,377 Lancasters were Andrew Panton, third generation built and entered RAF service and grandson of Fred, now runs during the Second World War. The Lincolnshire Aviation Heritage Over 150,000 missions were flown, resulting in 55,000 men Centre. Andrew, who has taken over Fred’s mantle since his of Bomber Command losing their lives. Just Jane will always death in 2013, won’t put a specific time on when the aircraft remain a timely reminder of a brother lost in war and a will be airborne again and knows the nature of the work may commemoration of all those brave men. take several winter seasons to complete. An estimated £3.5 million needs to be raised to complete the restoration. “We JOHN GREEVES

Further Information Lincolnshire Aviation Heritage Centre, East Kirkby, Spilsby, Lincolnshire PE23 4DE www.lincsaviation.co.uk Tel: 01790 763207 Email: [email protected]. THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017

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Are you haunted by a few lines from a poem and want help in finding the rest of the words? Do you have a favourite verse you’d like to share with us? Or have you been writing poetry for years and would like others to read your work? If the answer is “Yes” to any of these questions please write to me, Susan Kelleher, at This England, The Lypiatts, Lansdown Road, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire, GL50 2JA, or email [email protected]

A

reader from Devon set a puzzle for me recently when he sent me a poem entitled “My Love Hath My Heart, and I Have His” by Sir Philip Sidney. Donald Hodgetts was intrigued by the poem and its author and wanted to know more about both. Although familiar with the poem, I didn’t know much about its author but I have been able to find this information. Sir Philip Sidney was born at Penshurst Place in Kent in 1554 and educated at Shrewsbury School and Christ Church, Oxford. He then travelled through Europe for three years becoming proficient in several Educated, handsome, charming, brave, artistic and an excellent horseman, Sir Philip Sidney was the epitome of a perfect Elizabethan gentleman. His family home was Penshurst Place where family portraits hang in the medieval West Solar (right).

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languages, making many influential friends and gaining valuable insight into European politics. In 1576 Elizabeth I made him her cupbearer but Sidney wanted to be more than a courtier and hoped to be given an active political role. He was a keen supporter of the Protestant League but his talents were largely overlooked by the Queen who was reluctant to upset the balance of power between France and Spain. Thwarted in his political ambitions, Sidney turned his attention to writing, producing such important work as “Arcadia”, “Astrophel and Stella” and “The Defence of Poesy”.

He married Frances, the daughter of Sir Francis Walsingham in September 1583 and they had a daughter who was named after the Queen. In July 1585 Sidney finally got his first important appointment when he was made joint master of ordnance with his uncle. The Queen had been persuaded to support the Dutch against Spain and Sidney was made governor of Flushing and given a company of cavalry to command. Whilst leading a cavalry charge against the Spanish at the Battle of Zutphen in September 1586, he was wounded in the thigh and died on 17th October at Arnhem after the wound became infected. Whilst lying wounded he is reputed to have given his water to a fellow soldier saying, “Your need is greater than mine”. His body was taken home and buried in St. Paul’s Cathedral. The poem that Donald sent me comes from Sidney’s long heroic prose romance “Arcadia” written in 1580. Arcadia is a shepherdess who is speaking of her love for a shepherd. When the shepherd saw Arcadia his heart was struck by an arrow fired by Cupid, and as soon as he had been hurt she felt the same. My true love hath my heart, and I have his, By just exchange, one for the other giv’n. I hold his dear, and mine he cannot miss, There never was a better bargain driv’n. His heart in me keeps me and him in one, My heart in him his thoughts and senses guides: He loves my heart, for once it was his own; I cherish his, because in me it bides. His heart his wound received from my sight: My heart was wounded with his wounded heart: For as from me, on him his hurt did light, So still me thought in me his hurt did smart: Both equal hurt, in this change sought our bliss: My true love hath my heart and I have his.

W

ith Armistice Day fast approaching I found this poem, sent in by Frank Gowers of Market Drayton, Shropshire, very moving. It was written by A. E Housman (1859–1936) and is included in his cycle of poems A Shropshire Lad (see page 69). THE LADS IN THEIR HUNDREDS The lads in their hundreds to Ludlow come in for the fair, There’s men from the barn and the forge and the mill and the fold, The lads for the girls and the lads for the liquor are there, And there with the rest are the lads that will never be old. There’s chaps from the town and the field and the till and the cart, And many to count are the stalwart, and many the brave, And many the handsome of face and the handsome of heart, And few that will carry their looks or their truth to the grave. I wish one could know them, I wish there were tokens to tell The fortunate fellows that now you can never discern; And then one could talk with them friendly and wish them farewell And watch them depart on the way that they will not return. But now you may stare as you like and there’s nothing to scan; And brushing your elbow unguessed at and not to be told They carry back bright to the coiner the mintage of man, The lads that will die in their glory and never be old.

NEW REQUESTS

M

r. E. R. Kettle came across this poem in Norfolk and wonders if anyone has any further information on it? DON’T PASS THE SALT If you should drift upon my stone, Don’t pass the salt and cast off home, Spare a thought for what it’s worth, ‘Tis after all my final berth. Get fell in around my neck And cut the nettles from my deck, You’ll find no flowers upon my poop No fancy vase of daffodil soup, A bird or two, maybe singing, A spider climbing up my rigging, Still here I lie run aground, My wooden hammock battened down. No more broadsides off the Cape, No more langridge, shot and grape, No more wax-sealed kissed home, No quay-side hugs with hankies blown. The octopus roots of nearby trees Cradle me now safe from seas Belay a spell and keep your shirt on I’ve sailed with the best from Naples to Merton.

A view of the Shropshire countryside, a county forever associated with A.E. Housman, from Bury Ditches Iron Age hill fort. MIKE HAYWARD But just before you sling your hook, Log me in your spotter’s book, And if it’s sunny, skies not leaden, Take a photo, f.11. And if a stranger cruising past Should ask who’s that amid the grass, A Churchill, Ike or some such Nero, Tell him you’ve found a Nelson hero. And when you’re snug with your ‘Dispatch’, Knocking a grog down your hatch, Remember me, if you can, For I was once a Nelson man. A bronze statue of Admiral Horatio Nelson gazes out over the Thames at Greenwich. See poem above. STEVE BRYANT

Mrs. Angie Wheeler (47-4426 232 Street, Langley, B. C. V2Z 2R3, Canada) discovered this poem in an old album of poems, birthday cards for a four-year-old and postcards that had been put together as a gift for her sister who was born in 1940. The poem, written by “Bea”, is a tribute to children killed when a bomb hit their London school. THE LITTLE LIGHTS When it was very DARK, the clouds rolled back Before a silent wind on high, and then I saw the LITTLE LIGHTS smile in the sky. When it was very COLD and EARTH SHOWED BLACK Through patches of the yellow snow, shining, I saw the LITTLE LIGHTS. The young leaves, glow. Darker it is — more COLD to keep my track. Lit by the LITTLE LIGHTS I’ll try — by making them a GENTLER EARTH and a CLEAR SKY.

Angie wonders if anyone can identify the poem and its author, and give information about the tragedy. Mrs. Maureen Totman from Southampton has asked me to trace a poem that her father used to recite. It was about a dog called Spot and Maureen recalls that it was rather sad. I’ve had a search but haven’t found anything — can any reader help? Now for a very cheeky request! Ray Denvil (3 Emerald Court, 76 Brighton Road, Coulsdon, Surrey CR5 2BB) wonders if anyone can help him trace a monologue about a tattooist that he once recited to a local drama group. Ray has now lost trace of it — all he can recall is that the final line is “And I signed ’er on the bottom with me name!” THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017

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Somerset’s Feast of Flavours

I

t’s time to get your forks at the ready! Sunday 8th October sees the return of the Wells Food Festival. Set against the backdrop of England’s smallest city, this is a true Somerset community event. The festival is back for the fifth year running and it promises to be bigger and better than ever before. From just 3,000 visitors in the first year, numbers swelled to 15,000 last year and, with exciting plans for 2017, the organisers are hoping to entice even more visitors to Wells. Festival founder and director, Paddy O’Hagan, explains how the idea for the event came about: “Looking out over Glastonbury Festival and chatting with friends one year, we decided that if this was Normandy we would be celebrating the wonderful variety and quality of local artisan food and drink. So, why not in Somerset? Why not provide an opportunity for our producers to take centre stage, and in turn support the local economy and the high street?” There are two other directors of the festival: Jon Abbott and Charlotte Steele. Together they organise the stalls including the selection, administration, layout and management on the day. “The event is entirely run by volunteers so we are able to keep our stall costs down, which is obviously good for the traders, especially the smaller ones,” says Jon. “It is also free to enter so it’s a great day out for the family.”

And why Wells? “It made sense to hold the festival here in the heart of Somerset,” continues Paddy. “There is already an established Farmers’ Market in Wells, voted the best in the South West, so the festival really just builds on this. Plus it gives us a chance to show off this beautiful city!” Dare I say it, as a result this could be one of the prettiest food festivals in England. It is set up in the medieval heart of the city in the Market Square, with the magnificent, iconic backdrop of Wells Cathedral. From the Square, market stalls weave along the Bishop’s Palace Moat into the recreation ground, ending in the 15th-century Bishop’s Barn. But, as beautiful as the surroundings might be, ultimately the festival is all about the food. At the heart is the Artisan Market, with more than 150 producers and street food vendors. The magnificent cathedral and England’s smallest city provide the backdrop and setting for Wells Food Festival in October.

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Food festival curious.indd 34

23/06/2017 16:14

Curious England Jacka Bakery in Plymouth, Devon, claims to be the oldest in the world, having made ship’s biscuits for the Mayflower.

Above: Festival-goers enjoying delicious local food in the October sunshine. Right: Food stalls in the medieval heart of Wells.

“The event provides producers with a stage to showcase their products, to demonstrate provenance and highlight great tasting local ingredients,” says Jon. “They are understandably proud of what they do and this is their opportunity to really engage with the visitors.” It’s a melting pot of food and drinks, with one condition: that local produce is key to their business. As a result, visitors can enjoy some of the best food in the world ranging from artisan cheese and honey through to sushi and Thai, all with Somerset at their heart. “I think that people are amazed by the diversity of food and drink produced in Somerset,” says Charlotte. “The festival attracts a different audience to the weekly market. They want to chat and meet the producers, and our stall holders are always really happy to oblige. The Bath Soft Cheese Company now has someone working on their stand who was originally an enthusiastic visitor to the festival a couple of years ago!” In addition to the Artisan Market and street food vendors there are plenty of activities planned to ensure there is something of interest for everyone. Food education and sustainability is a key focus for this year, and the Charlie Bigham Discovery Zone will be taking centre stage in the recreation ground: a large marquee packed to the rafters with fun, interactive and informative things. Innovative companies are getting involved including FoodCycle Bath, an award-winning charity that combines volunteers, surplus food from supermarkets and retailers, and spare kitchen spaces to create meals for people at risk from food poverty and social isolation. According to the charity, 15,000,000 tonnes of food is wasted from plough to plate in the UK, and one tonne of surplus food is saved each week by FoodCycle. There is a long way to go, but it is a move in the right direction. The team at the festival will show what can be done with surplus food that would otherwise have gone to waste.

Tracebridge, located in Wellington, is a company based on the benefits of pickling vegetables. Katie Venner will be demonstrating the art of fermentation showing how to make sauerkraut and kimchi using the traditional methods of dry salting. These ancient techniques are being revived by many people keen to preserve the summer’s glut for the winter store cupboard. The lacto-fermented vegetables Katie produces are also full of probiotic bacteria and yeasts that are great for our stomachs and wonderfully tasty too. Waitrose is really involved with educational aspects of the festival and will be holding several tastings for visitors, including a cheese focus and an exotic fruits tasting session. There will also be a fish identification stand, and a butchery section looking at different cuts of meat. There’s plenty to interest younger visitors as well. The Morrisons Children’s Zone will be housed in the beautiful Bishop’s Barn. With the theme of “Have Fun with Food”, there are lots of hands-on, food-themed activities to ignite children’s imagination, using all the senses. It ranges from the very beginning of the process with planting seeds, then utilising food by making fruit smoothies and decorating cupcakes, right through to the importance of composting and recycling. The effect of food production on the environment is high on the agenda. Liz Baxter, Chair of Noah’s Ark Pre-School Committee, the organisers of the Morrisons Children’s Zone, says: “We broadened the theme to include conservation and so will incorporate elements of our exciting forest school into the festival.” This includes hints and tips for helping the native wildlife by making bird feeders and looking at ways of making gardens hedgehog-friendly. So, what is the future of the festival? Charlotte summarises: “Keeping the community at the centre and making sure it is free to enter and accessible to all; to inform and educate without preaching; to promote good, local food produced to the highest quality and, ultimately, for it to remain fun, relaxed and friendly.” It sounds like a good day out. I’ll see you there! ANDREA COWAN

THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017

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‘SOMERSET’S FEAST OF FLAVOURS’ (continued)

The stars of the festival are the artisan producers and street food vendors, celebrating the culinary culture of Somerset. Here is a brief taster of what is on the menu: White Lake Roger Longman is a third generation Somerset farmer. He started making goat’s cheese in 2004 when he teamed up with cheesemaker Peter Humphries. With an ever expanding herd of goats (close to 800 at last count), the company makes 25 different cheeses including the multi-award winning ‘Rachel’. And what’s so special about Somerset? “The French word for it is ‘terroir’, meaning what is unique to your area and how it affects the taste,” says Roger. “We have a yeast, or mould, that grows on our cheese which is particular to this area; it can’t be replicated. This means our cheese really does provide a taste of Somerset.” In addition to its artisan goat’s cheese, the company also makes batches of sheep’s and cow’s milk cheese. “A local Guernsey herd provides our cows’ milk and our sheeps’ milk comes from a flock also located just down the road. The result is minimal food miles, support for our Somerset neighbours, and truly exceptional cheese!” It’s a formula that is obviously working: White Lake was awarded Supreme Champion at this year’s British Cheese Awards.

Little Jack Horner James Hughes, director says: “We try to make the best handmade sausage rolls that we can. All our pork and chicken comes from local high welfare, free-range small-holdings and farms from within 15 miles of our kitchen in Mells, near Frome. “Our bakers are trained up from the local community; as a result, we feel we are very much part of the fabric of the local rural economy, championing farming animals on a small ethical scale, and training up local people and keeping them employed in the area.” The company’s ethos is obviously working: they won Small Business of the Year at the Mendip Business Awards 2016 and have numerous Great Taste Awards under their belt.

Somerton Beekeepers The Somerton Division of Beekeepers promotes awareness and understanding of the bee and its benefits. It is one of the largest of 12 divisions in Somerset, with more than 200 members ranging from complete novices to highly experienced, national prize winners. “We are always looking for newcomers so regularly run beginner courses,” says member, David Rose. “There is a theory course through winter and then practical sessions throughout the spring and summer at our new apiary in Long Sutton.” The group will bring an observation hive to the festival so visitors can see the bees hard at work. There’s also an opportunity to taste a variety of honeys and other products produced with honey, including chutneys, cakes and honey fudge.

Hullabaloos Lemonade Owned by husband-and-wife team Leigh and Randa Hucker, and based in Axbridge, the company hand makes small batches of traditional lemonade. “We pride ourselves on using only fresh fruit and natural ingredients and use absolutely no chemicals or additives in any of our drinks,” says Randa. There are a variety of fresh fruity flavours on offer: Original, Raspberry, Elderflower, Ginger and Citrus. “We juice the raspberries, infuse the elderflower and hand press the ginger. Our aim is to make people smile with our lemonade.” They are as ethical as possible with the business: “Our cups and straws are all compostable. We use glass bottles so that no chemicals from plastic leach into our lemonade. They are ‘ethical’ bottles making them lighter but just as strong as standard bottles. We feel a strong sense of responsibility towards helping protect the environment and always work towards doing so whenever we can.”

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Worley’s Cider Ltd. The company has a range of award-winning craft ciders, including bottled lines and varieties of traditional draught. “We’re Somerset through and through! We use traditional English cider apple varieties that are grown in Somerset’s heritage orchards, such as Harry Master’s Jersey, Somerset Redstreak, Stoke Red and Dabinett,” says Neil Worley, Managing Director. “As much of our outsourcing is in Somerset as possible; it’s good for the local economy and minimises emissions, which we refer to as our ‘cider miles reduction programme’! If you buy Worley’s Cider you know that it was ‘grown’, produced and bottled here in Somerset.”

Moist Describing his company, James Macfarlane says: “We make high quality artisan hummus and other dips. We source our ingredients from small local suppliers and serve our produce in biodegradable packaging. Working from our small kitchen we trade at markets throughout Bristol and Somerset with one simple mission: to ensure the good people of the South West never need to suffer the bland and boring horror of supermarket hummus ever again!” You can expect big flavours, quality ingredients, inventive recipes and biodegradable packaging — and Moist is 100 per-cent vegan. Dips for the people!

Leckerbissen Leckerbissen means “delicious bite” and this company’s German bratwursts and currywursts are delicious treats for your taste buds. Part of a creative street food movement, owner Julia Jeremiah says: “Our passion for top quality German sausages meets our love for fresh, nutritious food. I’m not sure you will find another street food stall that serves fresh green smoothies, golden milk and raw cakes next to the best currywurst you will ever taste!” This is an innovative, exciting company: apart from the sausages that come from award-winning butchers in Germany, the rest of the products, toppings and ingredients are sourced as locally as possible. Further Information

Wells Food Festival Sunday 8th October, 10.30am - 4.30pm www.wellsfoodfestival.co.uk

F

rom Northumberland, Yorkshire and Cumberland, through Staffordshire, Leicestershire and Shropshire, to Devon, Cornwall, Sussex and Kent, England’s 40 traditional counties are a colourful patchwork, a tapestry created over hundreds of years by geography, history and the men and women who have lived and worked within their boundaries. Each one is different from its neighbour, with its own story to tell, its own landscape, its own customs and traditions, its own cities, towns and villages and its own distinctive character and flavour.

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This new 100-page magazine is a celebration of England’s historic counties (no Cumbria or Merseyside here!), with a feature devoted to each one, and illustrated throughout with stunning colour photographs. Descriptions of the main characteristics of the county are accompanied by details of the major towns and cities, historic sites, local customs and curiosities, regional food and drink, and a selection of fascinating facts. There are also panels highlighting some of the famous people who hail from each county and a series of “county quotations” from writers and poets.

One copy Code: TECOU Just £6.99 to UK overseas £9.25. US $19; Can $20; Aus $21; NZ $24.

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 0800 074 0188 (FREE from UK landlines) Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat 9am-5pm overseas: +44 1382 575052  This England Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 814, Haywards Heath, Sussex RH16 9LQ.

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THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017

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DARKNESS OR LIGHT?

P The man who keeps a watchful eye on the heart of the Nation

rofessor Stephen Hawking of Cambridge, an atheist, said “Christianity is a fairy story for those afraid of the dark”. Professor John Lennox of Oxford, a Christian, replied “Atheism is a fairy story for those afraid of the Light”, (note the capital L for Light!).

THE TEN CANNOTS

T

he following thought-provoking quotes are attributed to William Boetcker, an American religious leader during the First World War:

THE TRAIN OF LIFE

BRITISH VALUES

t birth we board the train of life and meet our parents whom we believe will always travel by our side. However, at some station they depart, leaving us to travel on alone. As time goes by, other significant people climb aboard such as siblings, friends, children, husband, wife etc. Many later get off and leave a permanent vacuum while others depart whom we don’t even notice. Our ride is invariably full of joy, sorrow, fantasy, expectation, hellos, goodbyes, and also farewells. Success consists of having a good working relationship with our fellow passengers which requires us to give the best we can at all times. We don’t know at which station we ourselves will depart, however, so make sure that when your seat is vacated you leave behind only beautiful memories for those still travelling on.

hat are the traditional values of our great Judaeo-Christian culture which have accrued over the centuries and why are they important? Personally, I believe they are vital and challenge any sane person to criticise the following: Integrity, honesty, love, inclusiveness, kindness, compassion, equality of the sexes, tolerance, fairness, freedom of speech, freedom of worship, democracy and rule of law. Sadly, they are regularly undermined so we need to defend them and counter extremism, whatever its source.

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You cannot help the poor by destroying the rich. You cannot strengthen the weak by weakening the strong. You cannot bring about prosperity by discouraging thrift. You cannot lift the wage earner up by pulling the wage payer down. You cannot further the brotherhood of man by inciting class hatred. You cannot build character and courage by taking away people’s initiative and independence. You cannot help people permanently by doing for them, what they could and should do for themselves. If mankind was less greedy and less selfish it would all work well!

FASCISM OR FREEDOM?

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ave you noticed how the political Left brands anyone who disagrees with them as Fascist? They may be interested to know that Mussolini defined the three principles of Fascism as follows: 1. Everything of the state. 2. Nothing outside the state. 3. Nothing against the state. As Derek Bennett, in his latest Euro Realist Bulletin points out, that is exactly what the European Union and its supporters stand for, so how can its opponents possibly be described as Fascists? You know the answer which is why those guilty of this slander need to look in the mirror!

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Everyone travels on the journey of life but for different lengths of time and we don’t know at which station we will depart or what our fellow passengers will remember about us after we have gone (see The Train of Life). This image is of Churston in Devon and comes from The Railway Paintings of Barry Freeman, Silver Link Publishing, 96pp, hardback, £30.

Thanks to stupid EU regulations, discarding almost a quarter of our fish catch has been a scandal for years. Dare we hope for a change via Brexit?

WIGAN HONOURS A LEGEND

A PUPIL HONOURS A TEACHER

BBC COMPLAINTS PROCEDURE

n 1953 a shy young man was reluctantly persuaded to leave his native Cardiff and become a professional rugby league player for Wigan. He initially didn’t want to go so, after a brief secret chat, his mother demanded a king’s ransom to get rid of the club’s representatives, not realising they had brought precisely that amount in cash, concealed in a briefcase. Billy Boston need not have worried, though, because he became one of the greatest players of all time, scoring nearly 500 tries. Now in his 80s he was recently honoured with a statue outside the Wigan ground, a fitting tribute to a fine sportsman.

t the funeral of a former colleague I met an ex-pupil who told me why he had taken a day off work to pay his last respects. Dyslexia was not understood very well 40 years ago and, amazingly, the pupil managed to conceal his problem until he was 16 years old when the teacher spotted he had misspelt his name at the top of an examination paper. “Stay behind, I want a word!” He then helped the pupil with special tuition in his own time. A modest man, he also requested no eulogy which resulted in what the speaker cunningly described as a tribute instead, adding “What younger brother ever obeyed his older brother’s instructions?” We all heartily agreed!

henever I complain about offensive content, I receive an identical reply, which is why I applaud the Radio 4 presenter, Roger Bolton, for laying bare the truth about what is happening at the BBC on the religious front. He believes it is essential for the public, especially young people and immigrants “to understand the crucial ongoing role of Christianity in the formation of British culture”, stressing religious programming should be more involved with promoting knowledge and understanding.

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A

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IS SALFORD IN MANCHESTER?

N

Billy Boston in full flow was an awesome sight for players and spectators alike. Watch out for a forthcoming article on rugby league.

MORE WISE WORDS FROM THOMAS SOWELL

H

ave we reached the ultimate stage of absurdity where some people are held responsible for things that happened before they were born, while other people are not held responsible for what they themselves are doing today?

o it isn’t! The two adjacent cities are separated by the River Irwell but the bosses at Salford Quays have said they wish to rename the Lowry Outlet retail centre to suggest it is in Manchester. More than a mile from the actual boundary it seems odd that anyone should even contemplate removing the internationally famous “Lowry” in favour of a bland place name.

Complaining to the BBC is a meaningless affair with no hope of a reasoned response — rather like pressing the button on this mouse trap!

PUT THE ELDERLY IN PRISON! We should put the elderly in prison because they will get three meals and a shower every day, plus access to a gym, library, computer, television, doctor, and video surveillance in case of problems. We should put criminals in a private care home where they they will get cold meals, lights out at 7pm, two showers a week, a smaller room than a cell and pay rent of at least £2,000 a month! Makes you think, doesn’t it!

I could not have put it better myself. THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017

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England’s Last Revolution Two hundred years ago a small village in Derbyshire became the unlikely setting for an insurrection that would shock the nation

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n 1817 England was a country experiencing significant levels of misery and suspicion. Wars with France and the United States had deprived the iron and textile industries of valuable export opportunities, and a recession had led to unemployment and widespread opposition to the government led by Lord Liverpool. Rural Derbyshire reflected the mood and condition of the country. The lofty ideals of radicals highlighted by the early days of the French Revolution were in direct contrast to the ugly reality of life in the English countryside. A right to liberty and equality sat uneasily with the possibility of imprisonment without trial. “Habeas Corpus”, that fundamental of English Law, had been suspended by a government fearful of insurrection at every turn and with a steely determination to maintain order. There was some justification for the government’s attitude and policies. William Cobbett was attracting a large readership for his radical pamphlets, and his Political Register regularly sold 50,000 copies a week despite being labelled “Two Penny Trash” by the authorities. In March 1817, Cobbett, who feared that he would be arrested and charged with sedition, fled to the United States. By the summer of 1817, 10,000 weavers and spinners had been thrown out of work causing great discontent in the areas around Nottingham and Derby. “Hampden Clubs” spread out from London and into the provinces. These provided a vehicle for radical thinkers and the disaffected to air their grievances.

The authorities decided to become pro-active. A number of spies were dispatched from London to find out exactly what threat there was to the government. These men went far beyond merely reporting back their findings, but became agents provocateurs — instrumental in encouraging action. There was a “Hampden Club” which met at Ripley in Derbyshire and this was attended by a number of men from the nearby villages of South Wingfield and Pentrich. Such activities were being monitored carefully at a time when the government had banned meetings of more than 50 people. Thomas Bacon, a framework knitter from Pentrich, was an influential figure in the area. He was supported by Isaac Ludlam and William Turner from South Wingfield. A fourth man played a key role in driving forward plans for an uprising — “William Oliver”. William Oliver was really William J. Richards — an agent provocateur. He was both experienced and successful. In the two weeks prior to the “Pentrich Revolution” he had orchestrated, and scuppered, plots in Sheffield and Dewsbury. Indeed, as early as 23rd May 1817 he had written to the Home Secretary informing him that there would be an uprising in Derbyshire on 9th June! William Oliver had convinced the Derbyshire revolutionaries that they would be part of a coherent national plan: 70,000 radical sympathisers would take action in London, and Nottingham would already have fallen to a force numbering 100,000. A few days before the scheduled event Thomas Bacon began to have grave doubts and stepped down. He was replaced as leader by Jeremiah Brandreth, a framework knitter from Sutton-in-Ashfield. “The Nottingham Captain”, as Brandreth was known, arrived in Pentrich on 5th June 1817. Pentrich had been identified as the ideal starting point: not only was it home to many of the conspirators but the Butterley Ironworks was nearby and was seen as a key objective. It was believed that it would provide vital weaponry as well as many more supporters. Brandreth quickly organised two meetings: the first at Asherfields Barn was followed by a very public gathering at the White Horse Inn — which was situated right in the centre of Pentrich. A significant number of men were prepared to take some “direct” action against the authorities. If any further inducement were needed, Brandreth provided it by his naïve plan to set up a “Provisional Government” in Nottingham. Men who joined in his enterprise were promised bread, ale and 100 guineas upon their successful arrival in the city!

PAUL THOMPSON

Above: The village sign records the events of 200 years ago and a plaque marks the site of the rebels’ meeting place. Left: Masson Mill in Matlock Bath was built in 1783 and is now a working textile museum. Below: St. Matthew’s Church, Pentrich.

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Two of the main protagonists: William Oliver and Jeremiah Brandreth.

The uprising was scheduled to start at 10 o’clock on the evening of 9th June 1817 and the men duly gathered at Hunts Barn in South Wingfield. Their numbers vary from 50 to near 300 in witness statements from the time. They were armed with an array of unconvincing weapons: a few guns but mainly scythes, pitchforks and rudimentary homemade pikes. Things did not go well from the beginning. Oliver’s tipoff to the authorities was aided by rather persistent rain. The anticipated rush to join those marching south towards Nottingham did not materialise. Brandreth and his men began calling at isolated farms, knocking on doors and exhorting followers to join them but with little success. Brandreth became involved in an argument at the home of Widow Hepworth who was not keen on supporting his venture. A firearm was discharged which resulted in the accidental death of her servant, Richard Walters. Undeterred, the scattered groups reformed at Pentrich Lane End and marched on their first major objective. However, Butterley Ironworks did not throw open its doors and provide support. Instead, the “revolutionaries” were forced to stand outside in the rain and experience resistance and rejection. There was no alternative but to carry on. Wet and losing momentum, they stopped off at three public houses — promising the landlords that they would receive payment in full after Lord Liverpool’s government had been overthrown. When the bedraggled force encountered a detachment of the King’s Hussars resolve evaporated. They broke ranks and made their escape in small groups. The “revolution” was over — the unfortunate Richard Walters being the only casualty. The tinderbox nature of British politics at the time guaranteed the fate of the ringleaders. A show trial followed and Brandreth, Ludlam and Turner were sentenced to be hanged, drawn and quartered. This was the last time that the ultimate punishment in England was handed out. In the event clemency was shown and they were merely hanged and beheaded. Brandreth famously enquired about the role of “Oliver the Spy” prior to his death but his request for further information fell upon deaf ears. Punishment did not end with the deaths of the three ringleaders. Transportation to Australia was the fate of 14 men from Pentrich, South Wingfield, Alfreton and Heanor. Five

The exterior of Butterley Ironworks today and a garden where the White Horse Inn once stood.

men from Pentrich and one from South Wingfield were given prison sentences. The village of Pentrich was also punished. The houses of the men who had taken part were razed to the ground by the Duke of Devonshire, the local landlord, leaving noticeable spaces along the main road today. Dependants were evicted and forced to live in poverty. The White Horse Inn, the scene of Brandreth’s final planning meeting, was demolished. England did experience other worrying events. In particular, in 1819 the Peterloo Massacre in Manchester was another example of tension, suspicion and free speech making for a heady cocktail. Pentrich was to benefit from the endowment of a new school in the aftermath of “England’s Last Revolution”. It was provided by the Duke of Devonshire and built on the site of the former home of Thomas Bacon, which was one of those demolished. Pentrich had paid a high price for its involvement — but stability had returned. GLYN JONES Further Information Established in February 2012 to increase awareness of the 1817 Pentrich Revolution, the Pentrich and South Wingfield Revolution Group has a website with information about the uprising as well as letters, news and details of forthcoming events: pentrichrevolution.org.uk THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017

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Taking to the Skies with Bradshaw’s M

any readers will remember the Bradshaw’s railway timetables, but far fewer are likely to recall the Bradshaw’s International Air Guide that was first published in 1934. It did not enjoy the longevity of its railway counterpart, being withdrawn at the commencement of hostilities in 1939. Nevertheless, it was the very first publication to provide comprehensive, detailed timetables for international air travel. Henry Blacklock and company of Bradshaw House, Surrey Street, London WC2, who published the monthly guide at one shilling (5p in today’s money), issued a formal disclaimer typical of the time: “The tables in this book are compiled with as much care as circumstances will permit; but it must be distinctly understood that the Proprietors do not hold themselves in any way responsible for inaccuracies. It will be esteemed a favour if early intimation be given of any error that may be found in the guide.” In addition to the timetables of worldwide services and a large folding map of transcontinental air routes, the volume carried a host of wonderfully nostalgic advertisements for exotic locations. One such example was the Torrs Hotel in Nairobi, that offered exquisite cuisine, superb dance floor and West End orchestra. Of course, since the guide was issued all those years ago travel by plane has changed beyond all recognition, so much so that today the contents of those early publications, reflecting as they do a

different, more leisurely yet more sophisticated world, make for fascinating reading. In many cases passengers were collected from a town terminus (these were listed) and transported to the airport, to arrive no later than 15 minutes before the “scheduled time of departure.” The table gave distance and time allowance between termini and airports, and listed seasonal variations: for example, 10 minutes by car in the dry season, 45 minutes by launch in the wet season if travelling by flying boat, an aircraft once used quite commonly for internal flights. On pages preceding the timetables, a great deal of information was provided for passengers, and it makes an interesting comparison with present-day rules and regulations. Passengers had to ensure their luggage (free up to 33lbs) was clearly labelled and a receipt obtained upon registration. This was important, since a receipt had to be shown before baggage could be reclaimed.

Pages from Bradshaw’s International Air Guide and pictures of Croydon Aerodrome control tower and booking hall in the 1930s.

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Private radio telegrams could be sent or received during the flight on many Continental and long-distance services, and it was stated that most assurance companies included air travel on a life policy without extra charge. Beneath a heading, “Personal Hints,” was the gratifying information that because the cabins of the “air liners” were enclosed and heated, no special clothing was required; clothing similar to that worn for rail or boat travel being seen as sufficient. The London to Paris timetable detailed the flight from Croydon to Le Bourget by Imperial Airways, a distance of 224 miles with a flight time of 21⁄4 hours. The airport was 12 miles from the terminus, Victoria Station, with a journey time of 45 minutes; the fare was £4.15.0d (£4.75p) for a single and £7.12.0d (£7.60p) for a 15-day return. Numerous small companies are tabled as flying local services. For instance, Southend Flying Services provided a regular daily flight from Southend to Rochester. The distance was 18 miles, with a flying time of 156 minutes, single fares at eight shillings (40p) and returns at 12 shillings (60p). Light baggage was carried free. Railway Air Services and Spartan Airlines flew to the Isle of Wight from London, though they did not operate during the winter months. British Air Navigation Company, based at Heston Airport, provided year-round services to the island and had a flight time of 11⁄2 hours with a single fare of 19/6d (97p). The guide was truly international — in the Zeppelin section it was stated that baggage must contain personal effects only, with a free allowance of 20 kilograms. Issue No. 1, which came out in November 1934, is brimming with gems of social history, of which the advertisements are superb examples. Bradshaw’s offered a wide selection of guides and foreign phrasebooks, “which will fit into the waistcoat pocket.” Pitman’s, of shorthand fame, advertised their wellknown books on aviation, including How to fly an Autogiro, priced at five shillings. That once-renowned firm of Messrs. Wiggins Teape promoted their Imperial Air Mail Writing Paper. It was proudly claimed to have absolute opacity combined with a remarkable absence of weight, and a trial sample was enclosed within the guide. Occupying the outside back cover in its entirety is a stirring advertisement from the Air League of the British Empire — Secretary General Air Commodore J.A. Chamier, Annual Subscription £1. In announcing what would today be described as its “mission statement”, it went on to say that the League worked for no commercial gain, all its funds being devoted to service for British Aviation to help it take its place in the world, on which “our security and prosperity as an Empire largely depend”!

Unfortunately, the recommencement of civil aviation after the war did not prompt Messrs. Henry Blacklock to reintroduce their Bradshaw’s International Air Guide. Had they done so, with the exponential growth of air travel, each guide would have needed to contain thousands of pages. Described as rare and interesting relics, original copies of this 176-page publication, which, remember, cost a princely one shilling in 1934, now change hands for hundreds of pounds. Not a bad return for anyone who has been fortunate enough either to have retained, or to have had passed on to them an original copy. The whole experience of flying during the years covered by the guide could not be compared in any way with air travel now. In the late 1930s it must have been a most pleasurable, relaxed and civilised experience. Today, as we are well aware, the whole business of travelling by air, with congested airports, delayed flights, poor customer relations, long queues and escalating charges have made it a modern nightmare. ALAN THOMAS

Wonderful colourful posters advertising the exciting and glamorous world of air travel in days gone by.

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we retired to a local pub for lunch and drank a toast to Dame Vera. — STAN STADLER, WICKFORD, ESSEX.

Sir: “The Editor’s Letter” about Vera Lynn (Spring 2017) revived many memories. In the early 1930s my sister and I spent many holidays in East Ham with our aunt and uncle. He was a member of the local Working Men’s Club. In about 1933 we were taken to a concert there and were told that “Bert’s girl” would be singing. I remember her well, but I was only eight at the time. The first time I heard Vera Lynn’s voice on the radio I knew at once that it was “Bert’s girl”. One of the few good things to come out of the war. — MRS. W. NEWNHAM, EVESHAM, WORCESTERSHIRE.

English Personalities The Editor is always pleased to receive letters or emails from readers, which must contain the writer’s name and full address, not necessarily for publication, but regrets that he is unable to acknowledge or reply individually to letters received, except by way of occasional comment in these columns. The right is also reserved to abbreviate letters intended for publication, unless correspondents specifically request otherwise.

Please address your letters to “Post Box”, This England, The Lypiatts, Lansdown Road, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire, GL50 2JA. Email: [email protected] Website: www.thisengland.co.uk

Vera Lynn Sir: I am a former Chairman of the City of Westminster Branch of the Royal Society of St. George. On Dame Vera Lynn’s 100th birthday, myself and long-serving branch member Dennis Ramsey, drove to her home in Ditchling, East Sussex, to deliver a bouquet of red roses on behalf of the branch. We did not have her address but, knowing how well-known she is, we planned to call at the local pub and ask where she lived. However, as we entered the village we saw a lady carrying a large bouquet, so we stopped and asked her. To our surprise she said that she was also taking flowers to Dame Vera and that we had stopped right outside her house! We followed her to the front door which was opened by Dame Vera’s daughter, Virginia. She invited us in and explained

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that her mother was resting before a large family party that afternoon, but that she would go and see if she was sleeping. She returned to say that Dame Vera was awake and would be delighted to see us. You can imagine how we felt to meet this icon of English history going back to our childhood in the dark days of the 1940s, when she did so much to help us all through those terrible days. Dame Vera was sitting in her chair overlooking her lovely garden. She was very pleased that we had taken the trouble to travel down to see her, and was delighted with the roses. She remembered being made an Honorary Member of the branch many years ago and when we left she blew us kisses and sent her love and best wishes to all members of the branch. This ended a fantastic nostalgic day for two octogenarians, after which

Sir: I ordered a Stanley Holloway CD advertised in your spring 2017 issue and while I was listening to it I began pondering on which other personalities sum up England to me. After a little thought, I plumped for the following: Stanley Holloway, Alastair Sim, Ted Ray, Gracie Fields, George Formby, Vera Lynn, Tommy Trinder, Ken Dodd, Norman Wisdom and Tommy Steele. I have no doubt that readers would add others, and it would be interesting to see what they think. — JOHN M. SCOTT, WALLASEY, CHESHIRE.

*An excellent idea, sir. We look forward to hearing other readers’ thoughts. — Ed.

Poldark Inspiration Sir: I enjoyed your summer issue very much. As a big Poldark fan I was pleased to see that you had included an article about the actors, scenes and the various parts of Cornwall that were used for filming. (“On the Trail of Poldark”). When I visit Cornwall I will definitely look out for the places that were mentioned. I love reading, and writing poetry, and Poldark has inspired me to write many poems (including the one below) about this beautiful series of books by Winston Graham. — LYNNE REID, CORRINGHAM, ESSEX.

Nampara Bathed in Cornish sunshine Beside the foaming sea Standing proudly all alone By the shadow of the lilac tree. Strong and bold Its walls still hold A thousand memories Of a house that was once filled with love And dreams of what would be. The warm and cosy parlour Its library of treasures and maps The echoes of songs and laughter And Garrick chasing rats. The welcoming smells from the kitchen Of cakes and bread and cheese Hollyhocks in the garden Swaying in the salty breeze.

Readers and Royal Society of St. George members, Stan Stadler and Dennis Ramsey, visited Dame Vera Lynn on her 100th birthday earlier this year. See letter this page.

A Silver Cross of St. George… for the founder of the Cockadoodledo Trust

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and before she died spent some time in St. Peter’s Hospice, Bristol, which caters for patients from a wide area, its main aim, like all hospices, being to improve their quality of life. Last year they cared for more than 2,000 patients and 6,000 family members, offering individual and specific care to all. They were so good that Katherine described it as a five star hotel! As a response, Richard created the TEN for TEN Campaign in which he appealed for ten millionaires to donate £1 million each, or for one million members of the public to donate £10 each. The address is Katharine’s Farm, Swinhay, Wotton-under-Edge, GL12 7PH. The website is www.cockadoodledo.org.uk and the email is [email protected] Also, anyone can text Hens 10 £10 to 70070. Well done Richard and all your family. We take great pleasure in awarding you our Silver Cross of St. George and wish you well as you continue to raise funds to support the vital work of more than 200 hospices across the country.

ancer is a nasty illness and affects almost every family in the country at some stage. When Richard Meyer’s daughter, Katherine, died in March 2012 at the age of only 41, he decided to do something positive to help other sufferers and set up the Cockadoodledo Trust — with emphasis on the letters “DO”. The objective is to create a greater awareness of the wonderful work carried out by around 230 hospices in the United Kingdom and to raise funds to help offset the £800 million that it costs to run them annually, 70 per cent of which comes from private donations. Amazingly, the number of hospice volunteers is more than 125,000. The trust operates a charity garden in a secluded woodland glade by the Cotswold Hills in rural Gloucestershire, home to a number of rare poultry breeds housed in a copy of the Prince of Wales’s chicken house at nearby Highgrove. Not only does the garden raise funds through charity activities and artistic retreats, but is also available as a place of reflection for those who knew Katherine (pictured with her father) or for anyone else to remember a close relative or friend who also succumbed to cancer. Katherine loved chickens and gardening,

The cry of the gulls flying overhead The distant roar of the sea The sound of the hooves that carried him home To the place he longed to be. Oh the tales those walls could tell If only they could speak Of a man and his maid Who against all the odds

PETER WORSLEY

Do you know someone who, because of their dedication, sacrifice, service and devotion to duty deserves our award? If so, please send details to Silver Cross of St. George, This England, The Lypiatts, Lansdown Road, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire GL50 2JA.

Found a love so true and deep.

Lancashire Bay Walks

Though now it is battered and windblown And shrouded by the mist of the sea Behind that old and weathered door There’s no place I would rather be.

Sir: Firstly I must say that, to me, This England and Evergreen are two of the greatest magazines ever produced! How I look forward to every issue. I was particularly interested in “The Editor’s Letter” (Summer 2017) in which you extolled the beauties and fascinating

LYNNE REID

places in Lancashire. I am not a Lancashire person myself (more Hertfordshire and West Sussex), but I have some very good friends there and my husband and I have spent many lovely holidays up there with them. Apart from all the wonderful scenery my most abiding and vivid memories are of the Bay Walks. Cedric Robinson, The  THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017

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‘POST BOX’ (continued) Queen’s Guide to the Sands, who lives next door to my friends, takes parties across the Bay from Hest Bank back to Grange-over-Sands. As everyone knows that is a very treacherous stretch of water and can only be crossed with an expert. Cedric has been guiding people across for many years. His groups have included parties on horseback and many notable people including the Duke of Edinburgh. Many of the walks are done for charity which is an added bonus. As the incoming tide makes continual changes of the sands each walk has to be mapped out individually — the route to be taken marked in advance by sprigs of greenery. Some of the crossing is on dry sand, but at times one is wading thigh high through the water. It is a wonderful experience. I have done it twice and wouldn’t have missed it for the world. Cedric has written many books on his Bay Walks. I have four of them — 40 Years on Morecambe Bay, Between the Tides, Sandman and Time and Tide — and was lucky to get them all signed by him. I wonder if any of your other readers have done the walk? — JO MINNS, CHICHESTER, SUSSEX.

Splendid Surrey Sir: I love your magazine and am pleased to know so many people support and love our green and pleasant land. You say how you try to include every area of England (“The Editor’s Letter”, Summer 2017), but I am always disappointed you neglect my “area”, which is Carshalton, Surrey, now unfortunately part of the Greater London Borough of Sutton. We have a wealth of history, including Henry VIII, Anne Boleyn, two very pretty ponds and Honeywood Lodge which contains many artefacts about the area. A few miles away are the Mitcham Lavender fields and the River Wandle, known for its snuff mills. It would be amazing to see my “area” mentioned. Something a bit different to the northern counties, although they are very interesting! — MRS. GWEN LEWIS, CARSHALTON, SURREY.

*You might recognise the scene above, and you can enjoy more about your historic home county in our new publication, A Celebration of the Traditional Counties of England (see page 37). — Ed.

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that I have always associated with him: “Small profits and quick returns!” — REV. KEN HOLDING, SAXTON, SCARBOROUGH, YORKSHIRE.

Oliver Cromwell

This historic Greyhound Hotel overlooking one of the ponds in the village of Carshalton, Surrey. A reader praises the area. See “Splendid Surrey”. DENNIS MANSELL

Old Scarlett Sir: I was interested to see the article on Old Scarlett (“Christian England”, Summer 2017). Did you know there was a local weekly newspaper, The Peterborough Standard, and in it was a column headed “Old Scarlett hears that...” followed by snippets of local gossip? I lived in Peterborough from 1932 until 1958 and I well remember my parents reading out “Old Scarlett hears...”, so I was really interested to find out who he was! — MRS. ANNE BROWN, DORCHESTER, DORSET.

Butlin’s Memories Sir: Regarding “See You at Butlin’s” (Summer 2017) I was a receptionist at Butlin’s in Clacton in 1962 (see right). Popular and budding entertainers, such as Cliff Richard, frequently appeared at the camps. We earned five guineas per week (accommodation and food included — off-camp accommodation for office staff). The maximum number of campers at the peak period at Clacton was 8,000! — CEILA VAN TILBURG (née BROCK), ARCADIA, NSW, AUSTRALIA.

Sir: Years ago I read an anecdote about Billy Butlin. Apparently he was running

a hoopla stall at a fair. The prizes were on square wooden blocks. The hoops just fitted over the blocks but seldom fell flat, usually caught by one of the corners. Billy observed this and made his blocks smaller. More prizes were won and the other stallholders thought he was mad. Far from it — many more people went to his stall and he used the phrase Happy memories of Butlin’s for one reader who used to work at the famous holiday camps. See letter this page.

Sir: I read “A Royal History of England” (Summer 2017) with interest. After the Battle of Worcester, in 1651, the King made his escape to France when he came upon Bentley Hall, near Wolverhampton, where my ancestor Colonel Lane lived. To assist the King in his escape, his sister Jane assumed the role of Lady and the King her groom. This event has been the subject of many books, not least those penned by Richard Ollard, David Scott Daniell and Georgette Heyer. On the Restoration of the monarchy in 1660, the King was generous in the awarding of honours but Colonel Lane refused any. The King did, however, bestow the royal arms into our family crest, and our family motto is “Garde Le Roy”, and is incorporated into the signet rings worn by the men in our family. When Black Douglas came into our family in the mid 1800s our name became Douglas Lane, which is not hyphenated because of the royal connection. I still possess material relating to that event. There are also family connections in the parish church at King’s Bromley and a Lane Chapel in St. Peter’s Church, Wolverhampton. — REV. SIMON DOUGLAS LANE, HAMPTON, MIDDLESEX.

Sir: In the detailed account of Oliver Cromwell and the Interregnum, Paul James states that Cromwell’s “final resting place is not firmly established.” This is so, but those having associations with the White Rose County will know of the story that he rests within the county. Cromwell’s daughter, Mary, married Lord Fauconberg of Newburgh Priory as his second wife. After the Regicides had been disinterred and exhibited at Tyburn, Mary is said to have secretly taken her father’s body to Newburgh where it was placed in a tomb in the attic. I was shown this some years ago by the then head of the family, who told me that the tomb had never since been opened. Various visitors have pressed for its opening, including Edward VII when Prince of Wales. He ordered a

carpenter to drill a hole in one of the wooden planks and was prevented from further action by the owner of Newburgh. Another disappointed visitor was Winston Churchill who pleaded for the mystery to be solved — and so far as I know the mystery remains. Newburgh is a fine home, surrounded by lovely gardens and well worth a visit, a precious piece of England’s heritage. — BRIAN ARUNDEL, SIEGEN, GERMANY.

Mining Days Sir: I can’t resist addressing Max Pudney’s remembrances of his days as a Bevin Boy (“Forget-Me-Nots”, Spring 2017). He was conscripted in 1944, thus being a good decade

Could Newburgh Priory in Yorkshire be the final resting place of Oliver Cromwell? See letter opposite page. TOM PARKER

ahead of me, for I started at the pit in 1956. I worked in the Staffordshire coalfields.

I got my call-up papers, too, but when they found out I was a coal miner, they sent me

home because it was a reserved occupation. Though Max was not totally happy with his lot, he describes it with a good display of humour. I can understand how difficult it must have been for young men, with no interest whatever in mines and mining, to be suddenly sent down into the bowels of the earth — and for who knew how long? In contrast, I was born and raised in coal-mining villages, and my earliest recollections involve listening to the pit hooter, the rattle of the cages, and the massive puffing of the steam winding engines. I couldn’t wait to go down the pit and see what went on down there. In January 1956 I got my wish. An old miner, a former Deputy, 

This England’s Finest Tea Rooms

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utumn’s first award winner is a place that, judging by its name, will provide the perfect restorative cuppa! Chris and Keith Smalley have nominated the Remedy Tea Rooms, 57 High Street, Southend, Essex (also at Hockley Market Garden Centre, Lower Road, Hockley, Essex). They praise the exceptional standards in the establishment telling us: “The tea rooms are spotlessly clean, everyone is greeted with a smile, and the decor is typically English village tea room. The coffee and tea are excellent and the food is first class served by the nicest staff one could wish to meet.” When it comes to the menu, their particular favourites are the English Breakfast and Ploughman’s Cheese Platter and they describe the Sunday Lunch at Hockley as “excellent”. In recommending these tea rooms for a “richly deserved” award, Chris and Keith say that “..a visit to the Remedy is a visit to friends.” Fine friendships, fine food and fine tea; that certainly sounds like a winning combination to us. A letter from Pauline and Bob Parker, from Bicester in Oxfordshire, highlighted somewhere that’s really off the beaten track; in fact, you can only get there on foot or, wait for it, by narrow boat! (We think this might be a first among our award-winning tea rooms!) Jane’s Enchanted Tea Garden, Mill Lane, Kirtlington, Oxfordshire, is described by the Parkers as “a unique place next to the Oxford Canal” (see above). Once you’ve discovered this delightful hidden gem, which uses all local produce wherever possible, you will not be disappointed, as Pauline and Bob point out: “Jane serves three types of cream teas and is famous for her selection of homemade cakes, some 10 to 12 to choose from, including gluten-free.” It sounds an idyllic location and truly scrumptious too! They reckon that this is the place to find “The best cream teas in Oxfordshire.” High praise indeed from two very happy customers. We looked at the website www.janes-cream-teas.moonfruit.com

and opening dates and hours are limited, so it’s best to check before your visit — and advance booking is essential. Right in the heart of England, a warm-hearted welcome awaits you at The Secret Tea Room, 2 Adies Alley, Stone, Staffordshire. It is a special place for Mrs. Nora Moors from Stoke-on-Trent. Apart from the mouthwatering menu, she comments on the “very pleasant atmosphere”, “pretty bone china” and concludes: “I will certainly go again at the first opportunity.” Well, by then Mrs. Moors, our certificate will be there on display. We follow the worldwide tea room trail with our next nomination, which takes us to The Moments & Memories Tea Room, 34 Camp Street, Beechworth, Victoria, Australia. It has been nominated by Harvey and Thia Wonson, who were treated to afternoon tea here by a friend, while visiting the area. Harvey says: “As an avid reader of your excellent This England I immediately thought of the ‘Finest Tea Rooms’ feature and took the photograph (see left).” He adds: “The Moments & Memories Tea Room offers a selection of 50 different teas, as well as breakfast, morning, afternoon tea and luncheon, with Devonshire Teas available all day.” Taking its inspiration from an English cottage tea room this really sounds a thoroughly delicious slice of Englishness down in south-east Australia, and one of our awards is on its way. Warmest congratulations to these tea rooms and we’ll be announcing plenty more in the winter issue. If you have a tea room you’d like to nominate, send details to: This England’s Finest Tea Rooms, The Lypiatts, Lansdown Road, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire GL50 2JA, or email: [email protected]

THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017

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‘POST BOX’ (continued) took me down. As we got off the cage, I was astounded to see the quality of the old-timers’ brickwork, the vaulted arches all around the pit bottom. My first job was to be a pony driver and my first charge was Darky; though I’m not sure even today who was in control of whom! Incidentally, the ponies were well looked after, they were well-fed, and, they were not blind. I continued working in the mining industry; gold in Africa, iron ore in Canada, etc. I enjoyed it immensely. — DEREK BULLOCK, ONTARIO, CANADA.

Lawrence of Arabia Sir: I see that you are planning an article on Lawrence of Arabia’s time in Dorset (“Post Box”, Summer 2017). My parents were just married when Lawrence arrived at “Clouds Hill” in Wareham. Mum and Dad were living at Burton Bradstock. Dad was building houses near Poole and travelled back and forth on his motorbike. It wasn’t long before he and Lawrence had a close call on one of the country lanes and became well-acquainted with their love of motorbikes. After that they had frequent meets to explore the surrounding country and wasted (according to Mum!) a lot of time rebuilding their bikes to try and squeeze a bit more out of them. Dad knew the area very well and Mum even better, so Lawrence managed to see and explore much more of the countryside than he otherwise would have; and they had some challenging moments such as

The Dorset village of Burton Bradstock where a reader spent his childhood and his parents got to know Lawrence of Arabia. See letter this page. JOHN HUSBAND

the occasion they met a bull who contested right of way! All of that would have been in 1926 and up to May 1927 when my folks moved on. — DAVID

of course, my parents who were paying the fees, so I was allowed to carry on further with more exams over the years. — MRS.

REYNOLDS, CHRISTCHURCH, NEW

BERKSHIRE.

ZEALAND.

*What great memories, sir, and the article will appear in our winter issue. — Ed.

England’s Composers Sir: I found the article on John Ireland (“England’s Unsung Composers”, Spring 2017) very interesting. Many years ago when I was learning to play the piano I went to Reading, Berkshire, to take my first exam. It was December 1936 and I was 13 years of age. The examiner was Dr. John Ireland. I am pleased to say that I passed, which must have been a great relief to my piano teacher and,

A Golden Milestone Next year marks an important anniversary for This England, with the magazine, which was first published in the spring of 1968, celebrating its 50th birthday. We are hoping to produce a special one-off publication reproducing some of the articles and illustrations that appeared on the pages of This England during that hectic half-century (further details to follow), but we would also like you, as readers, to join us in our birthday festivities. We’d love to hear how long you have been reading the magazine. Have you been with us since our earliest days? And what memorable and happy events have occurred in your own lives since 1968? Please share your memories with us (a photograph would also be appreciated) and join the lively party we are planning to hold…on the pages of the Spring 2018 issue of This England! Please send details to This England’s Fiftieth Birthday, This England, The Lypiatts, Lansdown Road, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire GL50 2JA. You can also email us at [email protected]

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JOAN SADLER, HUNGERFORD,

He returned to Toronto, Canada, with his family, in August 1944. We would be pleased to hear from Sergeant “Jordan” who was our father’s driver/batman. I don’t remember whether this was his first or last name. In civilian life, I think he was a market gardener. We would also like to contact one of Father’s secretaries, stationed at RAF Dumfries, Scotland. I think her married name was Margaret Moses. She and her husband emigrated to Canada after the war. I appreciate this is a long shot, but there is great interest in Canada around the First and Second World Wars, plus the skirmishes in the Near and Middle East, and in Canada obtaining nationhood. Father told my brother and I that he and others from Sault Sainte Marie went to war to defend the Empire and our mother country — a noble endeavour! — CHARLES KING, 13 FOREST GLEN CRESCENT, TORONTO, ONTARIO, M4N

Family History

2E7, CANADA.

Sir: My brother and I have commissioned a history of our father Charles Ley King, who died in 1956. He spent 28 years in the RFC – RAF, retiring in autumn 1944, with the rank of Air Commodore. Born in Manitoba, in 1891, he grew up in Sault Sainte Marie and Saint Joseph’s Island, Ontario. Any information people have about him would be gratefully received. Here is an overview of his service history:

Readers’ Experiences

December 1928 — Officer commanding No. 502 Ulster Squadron (Aux) AF March 1932 — Personnel HQ, Inland Area February 1935 — Officer Commanding No. 3 APC, Sutton Bridge October 1935 — Air Staff, HQ Iraq Command April 1938 — Air Staff, HQ Iraq command April 1938 — Air Staff, HQ Iraq, RAF Catterick November 1938 — Air Staff, HQ Iraq, No. 12 FTS, RAF Grantham May 1940 — Senior Air Staff Officer (SASO) HQ Technical Training Command September 1940 — Commanding Officer, HQ No. 9, Fighter Group, WEF, Preston Date unsure — Commanding Officer, RAF Evanton February 1941 — Commanding Officer, RAF Dumfries

Sir: I write books about the paranormal and I wondered if any of your readers have had experiences of ghosts, poltergeists, UFOs, mystery animals or any other strange happening which does not fit into these categories? If they have, please could they contact me with details by letter or email. I would prefer to include people’s names, but they can remain anonymous if they wish. I have written 10 previous books including The Police and the Paranormal (2011) and Our Eric: A Portrait of Eric Portman (2013). — ANDY OWENS, 65 WOODLANDS AVENUE, HALIFAX, YORKSHIRE HX3 6HJ. EMAIL:

[email protected]

On the Road! Sir: Following recent letters about people’s cars, this tale might amuse your readers. Some years ago I bought a secondhand Morris Minor Traveller in Bangkok when I was working at the Palace School, situated within the Royal Palace compound. A feature of Oriental monarchy is the Royal White Elephant, which is housed within the compound and exercised every day. In front of the school was a staff car park through which the white elephant passed on his daily walk. Once in the car

Sir: Regarding our first car, our brother-in-law, who had a car yard, said that he had the perfect one for us. Being entirely ignorant regarding cars, and car salesmen, we trusted him and purchased it. It was a DKW which had a two-stroke engine. One day we went for a drive, with our young son and new baby. We tried to drive up a steep road, but after three attempts we had to go back down. We continued along St. Kilda Road, in Melbourne, when suddenly the car lurched to the left and a wheel passed us on our right! My husband jumped out, ran after it and only then did I realise it was from our car! Somehow he managed to put it back on and we continued on our way. This was a Sunday in 1953 so there were not many cars about, had it been now it would have been a different outcome as it is extremely busy. Needless to say, it was returned to our brother-in-law where we learned it had been packed with sawdust! Did we get a refund from him? No way, we were given another car which travelled a little better but with no further mishaps! — BARBARA CLAYTON, ASPENDALE, VICTORIA, AUSTRALIA.

Egg Correspondence Sir: Whilst researching local First World War history, I found an article (see below) in the Biggleswade Chronicle dated 22nd September 1916. It was the story of a “Potton Egg” and a local schoolgirl, Connie Stonebridge, who had written her address on its shell. From a hospital at Harfleur, Pte. E.C. Gurnett writes to Miss Connie Stonebridge as follows:You will be surprised no doubt at getting a letter through the medium of an egg. But as the hospital orderly handed me an egg for breakfast I noticed some writing on the shell. It was your name and address, no doubt just ‘done for a laugh’. I thought I would drop you a few lines, however, and to see if you care to answer.

ENGLISH EXCURSIONS From a spectacular house designed by artist Grayson Perry to lightships, forts and one of the oldest purpose-built cinemas in England, Essex is a county packed with history and mystery. IN SEARCH OF LAWRENCE OF ARABIA A journey around Dorset on the trail of one of England’s most enigmatic and inspirational heroes. A ROYAL ALBUM As the Queen and the Duke of Edinburgh celebrate their 70th wedding anniversary, we pay tribute in photographs and look back at their life together. TRAMS INTO TOWN For a boy growing up in the city in the 1950s, a ride on one of Sheffield’s trams provided an unforgettable experience. With a collection of nostalgic photographs as illustrations, our writer recalls some memorable outings.

I’ve been wondering if Connie answered the letter and did Pte. Gurnett recover and survive the conflict and safely return home to Canada? So far I’ve had no luck from either side. I am sure that any relatives would find this of interest. I wonder if publication in This England would come up trumps. I’m keeping my fingers crossed! — KEITH G. LAWRENCE,

IN ENGLAND — NOW! If you want to commission a new one or have a childhood favourite that needs restoring to its former glory, the Tetbury Rocking Horse Works in Gloucestershire is the place to go. We observe the skill and craftsmanship at first hand.

BIGGLESWADE, BEDFORDSHIRE.

DO YOU BELIEVE IN FAIRIES? From “A Midsummer Night’s Dream” and “Puck of Pook’s Hill” to the tiny dancing figures photographed by two schoolgirls at Cottingley in 1917, the Little People flit in and out of English history, literature and legend.

Music Hall Magic Sir: “Let’s All Go To The Music Hall!” (“London Pride”, Summer 2017) brought back many happy memories. As a young lad, I was interested in conjuring and to improve my presentation I was coached by a member of the Magic Circle. Our family attended the Methodist church in Barking, Essex, and one member had formed a small concert party and asked me to join them as the “Boy Conjuror”. We visited many Methodist church halls in East London and Essex to perform on Saturday evenings. Wilton’s Music Hall was one of these and used by a Methodist Mission, this would be in the late 1940s and early 1950s. The place was packed with youngsters from the area. My list book gives two occasions we attended Wilton’s — 23rd March 1949 and 26th January 1950. Is there anyone who remembers our Concert Party? — PETER REYNOLDS, STOWMARKET, SUFFOLK.

CHRIS HERRING

WIRRAL, CHESHIRE.

Coming in the Winter 2017 issue of THIS ENGLAND

I am a Canadian. I am in here with a bad ankle, which I had smashed a while ago. It’s getting along fine and I will not be lame without ‘Fritz’ giving me another strafing — ha-ha! This is a dandy hospital, of course a canvas one, and all male orderlies, but most perfectly ordered. The men who pass through this place I am sure will always remember it as a most pleasant break in the hard life that is a soldier’s lot ‘up the line’. I have been out here a year and have been lucky enough not to have been sick or wounded before. We have been utilised you know as infantry up till now, dismounted you see, but we are now again cavalry, and hope to have our hands full soon with the sword and the lance instead of the bayonet. I hope this finds you in good health and having a good time. Yours with best wishes, Pte. E.C. Gurnett

Thatched boathouses at Hickling Broad in Norfolk.

park he would invariably head for the Morris Traveller, lean against the woodwork and rub his flanks and rear contentedly against it for some moments before moving off! Let’s say he was an unusual admirer! Incidentally, I still drive the car most days, none the worse for the experience! — GERALD OWEN,

Plus...regular features including Post Box, Notes from a Cottage Garden, London Pride, A Royal History of England, Nelson’s Column, etc.

Publication date: 1st November ORDER YOUR SUBSCRIPTION NOW.

SEE PAGE 98

THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017

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ananas were the Holy Grail. Apparently they were a stunningly beautiful yellow colour on the outside, utterly delicious, delicately scented and soft inside — as easy to peel as an Elastoplast from a knee. Best of all, monkeys liked them, peeling them with their teeth and fingers, then eating them just like a human. In that magical, near-mythical, totally unobtainable Paradise which was “before the war” you only had to walk down the road to buy as many bananas as you wanted. They weren’t even rationed. During the Second World War every child was tormented by stories of what life was like before war broke out in 1939, and of the wonderful things you could once buy (and do) and which were now never, ever, even glimpsed. Ice cream, for example, made with real cream, which you bought off a man riding down the street on a funny kind of tricycle. This often came in strange cone things made from wafer, whatever that was. Sheet music for a popular wartime song.

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My mother did make one heroic attempt at homemade ice cream. However, even Billy the dog, never one of life’s great gourmets, recoiled from her half-rotten-windfall apple ice cream made with powdered milk and dried egg.

‘Before The War’ My father did manage a few spoonfuls of it, and lived, but then he had survived Passchendaele. Another major disappointment were Christmas and birthday presents, which never, ever, seemed to be new. Everything was at least third-hand, mauled to death by my many cousins. I would have killed for a teddy bear with a full complement of eyes, ears and limbs, which wasn’t two-thirds bald and which hadn’t been gnawed within an inch of its life. The same went for clockwork cars which would actually wind-up, toy lorries which you could push along without the wheels falling off, electric trains that didn’t just buzz at you when you turned on the power and actually moved a little, and Meccano that wasn’t all bent and twisted as if it had been bombed — which it probably had. Jigsaws always had vital bits missing, board games lacked essential counters, and playing cards and card games never

had a full deck (“Hasn’t anyone got Mr. Grim the Undertaker?”) Once upon a time, maddeningly in the not-too-distant past, there had been one particular, unique Shangri-La where all the wonderful things which “before the war” offered had come together in a single place. It was situated by the sea, literally on the beach, a little timber and asbestos summer bungalow which my mother owned with her brother and sister. Here, indeed, was Paradise, and all my older cousins confirmed the fact. There was rowing and sailing, and sand and sandcastles, shingle and swimming and fishing and shrimping, and a thousand other marvellous things to do and see. The building was on stilts and, if there was a gale during spring tides, the surf would sometimes thrillingly whoosh beneath it. It was on the south coast, close to a beautiful seaside town called Eastbourne which had a pier, something called a promenade, and huge, immaculate white-painted buildings all along the front which weren’t all peeling, dirty and shabby like everything nowadays. I wanted to go there more than anywhere else in the world, more even than the

The pier at Eastbourne and a wartime photograph showing how, for some holidaymakers, life went on as normal.

top of Mount Everest where no one had ever been. Tragically, because of its position, the bungalow was no longer accessible as the Germans were going to invade and occupy it. As a result civilians weren’t allowed anywhere near the place, even the owners. In August 1994 my mother and I had a week’s holiday in a small Bexhill

hotel owned by one of my father’s friends. By then the risk of invasion had receded, so the nearby beach had been partly cleared of anti-invasion barbed wire and other temporary structures, and it could once again be enjoyed by the public. Surprised by this, and also inspired by it, my mother came up with a really wonderful idea. “It’s only a few miles away, would you like to have a look at the bungalow?” I was ecstatic. After a lifetime hearing about it, I was actually going to visit Paradise. It wasn’t a simple expedition, though, and involved a train, a bus, and what would be quite a long walk for a six-year-old along an unmade road. Nevertheless, I was happily prepared to die on the way back if I could actually

BRIAN GIBBS

see the place at long last. It took us hours; buses were late, trains didn’t turn up, the road was long, hot and dusty. We had gone about halfway, when we came round the corner and suddenly saw the timber and barbed wire across the road. A large, red-painted sign was attached: “No Entry. Military Personnel Only”. It is still one of the greatest disappointments of my life and, despite all my mother’s attempts to console me, by the waters of the rather smelly dyke that ran alongside I sat down in the dusty road and wept. A year later, on 15th August, using five years of accumulated driftwood, we all built an enormous bonfire on the beach directly in front of our bungalow and, as he perched on the top of his pyre, burned the Emperor of Japan in celebration of VJ-Day. At long last the nation was at peace, and soon, I was absolutely confident, the geology of the entire country would be groaning under the weight of millions and millions of fabulous, utterly delectable bananas. BRIAN BONE

The Day My Father Raced A V1 Flying Bomb

W

aterloo Bridge in London has been a subject for poets and writers for years. The scene of a lovers’ tryst, a car chase or a regiment of marching men —- the historic crossing point has seen it all. My memory of Waterloo Bridge is also dramatic. During the war I was boarded at a school outside London and after the holidays my father would walk with me across the bridge to the station. Like the whole of London we were conscious of the V1 (doodlebug) threat: that sudden flying object somewhere overhead with the recognisable sound, then the engine cutting out, a silence, followed by an explosion. We were halfway across the bridge when there was a growing “putt-putt” sound. The flying bomb swooped over Waterloo Station, dipped, and headed straight for us. We were astounded. “Run!” my father shouted. For an instant the V1 markings were clearly visible, and then it was past us, over the Thames and heading for the Palace of Westminster. Miraculously, it lifted, cleared the building, and disappeared. My father later wrote to me and told me that the flying bomb crossed London and exploded in open country. It was a family joke that father should wear running spikes the next time he went over the bridge. I thought that he sprinted very well with a small boy in one hand, a suitcase in the other and a gas mask slung round his neck! ADRIAN COOPER

More ‘FORGET-ME-NOTS’ overleaf THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017

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‘FORGET-ME-NOTS’ (continued)

No Mod Cons

S

ome of my most memorable and happy memories are of those times I spent at my grandmother’s cottage in the picturesque Essex village of St. Osyth, the birthplace of my late mum and her three sisters. I vaguely remember my grandpop (pictured above with me and Nan), a recipient of the Military Medal in the First World War who is named on the churchyard cross in St. Osyth as he sadly died when I was very young. I have been told he would bounce me up and down on his knee and call me “Peaches”. My dad didn’t have a car in those days, so to get to my nan’s cottage from the village of Kirby Cross where I was brought up, we caught a bus to Clactonon-Sea and then another to St. Osyth. Nan’s cottage wasn’t equipped with running water, gas or electricity and the toilet was a bucket in an outhouse at the bottom of the garden. Cooking was on a very old-fashioned cast-iron range, heated with wood or coal, which was also a means of heating the kitchen. The cottage was lit by oil lamps and with the old oak beams on the ceiling it was very cosy, especially on bath nights. I was bathed in a tin bath in the lounge. Nan would get the water from a shared well in her neighbour’s garden, which was heated on the range in huge pans. When bathtime was over Nan would carry that bath outside to empty it; how she managed it I’ll never know. I loved bedtime; it was so special. Nan would tuck me up with my little Rupert

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Bear, given to me on the day I was born (he now shares my pillow), and read me a story. She always left a small tin of sweets (Nan called them “suckers”) beside my bed. Needless to say the tin was empty in the morning. Mondays were always washday. Nan scrubbed the sheets with a bar of washing soap on an old washboard, then put them through the The Gatehouse, St. Osyth Priory. J.D. ANDERSON mangle and I’d hold them as they came through. at the cottage and it was then that I spent many happy hours in the Nan got her first television. Her sunshine playing and running across the favourite programmes were Saturdayfields at the back of the cottage to the afternoon wrestling and the Eurovision woods of St. Osyth Priory, watching the Song Contest. All the family were deer roam and picking bluebells and at Nan’s cottage when Abba won it in buttercups for my beloved Nan. 1974. The whole family would congregate Life was hard for Nan in those days, at Nan’s cottage for many memorable although it was the only life she knew bonfire nights. Nan made toffee apples and she wouldn’t have changed it for and lots of other delicious goodies for us the world. I was always kept spotlessly children to munch on while we watched clean, well fed and was very much loved. the fireworks go off. Then it was back to Those wonderful times I spent there were the cottage where we were greeted by a idyllic, healthy and carefree. lovely roaring fire, oil lamps burning and That lovely little cottage has now been more delicious food. Nan’s iced coconut brought into the 21st century. I hope that buns topped with cherries were my the people who live there now will enjoy favourite. many happy years at what will always be I was in my early twenties when the to me my grandmother’s cottage. electricity and a telephone were installed SUZETTE MIZEN

MEMORIES OF A BRANCH LINE

Smoke that drifts like muslin underneath an English sky, As busy engines full of steam go puffing slowly by, And country stations by the track with little walls of stone, Have platforms full of summer flowers to welcome people home. High on the steep embankment’s fragrant grass Bright butterflies in coloured clouds are lifting, And wild flowers nod to all the trains that pass, With bumble bees between the brambles drifting.

Arley Station on the Severn Valley Railway in Worcestershire. GRAHAM GOUGH

And sometimes on a silent night beneath a starry sky, You may hear a phantom whistle as a memory passes by…

DAVID WEBB

Harvest Memory

M

y father came in to breakfast one sunny morning in August and announced that the barley was ready to harvest. “I can’t possibly combine your barley today,” said our contractor when my mother phoned him. “Definitely not today.” So for the first and only time, my father declared a day at the seaside. We’d fed and watered the livestock so he drove us to Worthing, the closest beach, and we splashed and swam and built a sandcastle when the tide went out. I was 10. I had never seen my father swim before, and was entranced to find that he could float almost sitting up, with his toes and his head and shoulders out of the water. I tried to copy him, but I couldn’t do it, and I never have since. We left the beach in plenty of time to feed the pigs and chickens, and my father drove us home quickly. As we turned into our lane, we met our contractor and his big combine pulling out. “I’ve done it, after all!” he called from the driver’s platform. “Hope you can get it in. It’s going to rain.” The pigs had never been fed so quickly. My mother made sandwiches, almost unheard of in our house, and my brother and I were still eating ours as we hitched up the trailer to the tractor and set off across the farm to collect the piles of sacks dotted round the barley field. By then it was seven o’ clock. I drove the tractor while my brother and father loaded the sacks onto the little trailer. Back and forth we went to the barn while the August dusk gathered. By the time we picked up the last sacks, the stubble was damp and the moon soared above the quiet land. A fox trotted brazenly across the field, jumping over the lines of straw, and we watched him as I drove us all back to the barn with the last load. I remember my mother was waiting there with fruitcake and a jug of cider, and we sat on the sacks we had unloaded and ate and drank. I remember too how I ached as I climbed the stairs to bed. LESLEY PARDOE

The Old Jug Its grey print smudged and set askew It held no less the harvest brew. This old straight-sided harvest jug With cracked curved lip and dented handle In decorated glory stood Upon the farmer’s harvest table. The milkmaid with her butter churn And labourer in his broad-brimmed hat Stand either side their tools of toil, The sickle, shears, the plough and pail. Woven wreaths of oats and wheat Around the rim in garlands flow, Proclaim the purpose of the jug Supported by the verse below. The last grain stored, lit by the moon, They stacked and thatched the crackling straw Against the winter coming soon. The stubble damped by autumn’s shroud, With aching backs, complaining knees, They drank the ale from off its lees And next day harnessed up and ploughed. LESLEY PARDOE

Curious England

Derwent Reservoir Near the dam wall of ve of Tip, a faithful in Derbyshire is the gra his dead master ed sheepdog who guard 15 weeks. in the snow of 1953 for THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017

53

Beautiful in Black and White

2.

England’s landscape and landmarks as they have never been seen before

O

ver the years I’ve been fortunate that quite a few of my photographs have appeared in This England and Evergreen. All of these images have been in colour ranging from my older colour slides (from cameras that took rolls of film), right up to the files from my modern digital camera. A lot of my early photography was done with black and white film that required, firstly developing the negatives, and then printing them — and what a messy business that could be! But now it’s perfectly possible to produce black and white images from a modern digital camera. You don’t need a darkroom equipped with a sink, an enlarger and trays of magical liquids that make prints appear out of thin air — just a computer or laptop. Would my modern colour files make good black and white images? I’ve recently been experimenting to see if a black and white version is still as dramatic as the colour one. Reducing colours to shades of black, white and grey can give an image great impact because you’re not influenced by the colours of the scene, just the shapes and tones that you see.

1.

Modern software will have no difficulty just turning colour images into black and white, or “greyscale” as it is often referred to. I was encouraged by early conversions so I started investigating what more could be done. Goodness me! What a world of exciting possibilities opened up once I started exploring all the menus and choices the software offered. I soon learnt that it’s possible to change the shade of grey (its lightness or darkness) for individual colours to produce some startling effects that still look realistic, but can be both dramatic and atmospheric at the same time. For instance, take a blue sky: by using one of the software options I can make this appear almost jet black or pure white. If I darken it enough any white clouds in the now dark sky become emphasised and create dramatic cloudscapes. Greens and yellows can be adjusted to appear almost white — which means that trees can appear to have white leaves and expanses of grass look as though they are covered in frost or snow — in the middle of summer! But the effect that I’ve discovered that pleases me the most is the possibility of retaining the colour in just part of a black and white image. You can do it with any colour, but a bright red seems to work quite well — as you can see here. Have a look at these examples — all taken in colour, then converted to black and white, with a few more tweaks added by computer software. What do you think? CHRISTOPHER NICHOLSON

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3.

4.

1. Snow at Cossington in Somerset — with a dramatic splash of red. 2. Hope Valley from Millstone Edge in the Derbyshire Peak District. 3. A Blackpool tram. 4. Ashton Windmill, which dates from the 18th century, at Chapel Allerton in Somerset. 5. Ghostly Glastonbury Abbey beneath dark skies. 6. Barrington Court in Somerset, a Tudor manor house now owned by the National Trust. 6.

5.

THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017

55

1. 2.

1. Beachy Head and its famous lighthouse. 2. Nunney Castle, a 14th-century English Heritage property, looks especially sinister in black and white. 3. Changing the Guard at Windsor Castle, with one soldier standing out from the crowd. 4. The Clifton Suspension Bridge, spanning the Avon Gorge and River Avon in Bristol. 5. All Saints’ Church in the market town of Bakewell in Derbyshire. 5.

3.

4.

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THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017

1. 2.

4.

1. Looking down on Westminster, where a familiar sight on the streets of the capital catches the eye. 2. A full moon lights up the beautiful West Front of Wells Cathedral. 3. Forde Abbey in Dorset, a former Cistercian monastery dating from the 12th century, is now a popular tourist attraction. 4. Lacock Abbey in Wiltshire, which was founded in the 13th century as a nunnery. 3.

THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017

57

Portrait of a Village

Sticky Toffee CARTMEL

V

isitors to the Lake District can be crudely classified into two broad types: there are the fellwalkers, climbers, canoeists, sailors and other outdoor enthusiasts, and then there are the gentler souls who follow the Wordsworth trail, who haunt tea shops, go on shoppingcrawls and crowd onto steam trains and lake cruises. And there’s nothing wrong with either of these types… The great thing about the Lake District is that it has room for everyone, and most locations can offer both adventure and gentle bumbling. And you can combine the two lifestyles in some surprising places. Take the unfeasibly picturesque village of Cartmel, for example. Situated in the historic county of Lancashire (“north of the sands”), it is, first and foremost, a wonderful base for some of the more gentle leisure pursuits: low-level rural walking, admiring chocolate-box village prettiness, joining the crowds at a holiday race meeting, visiting the Priory and sampling alarming amounts of its most famous product, sticky toffee pudding. Actually, I’ve never been to the village on a race day but I have been through it in a horsebox taking our own 14.2hh pony on other equestrian business. The approach to the village on narrow roads, the careful crossing of the square and the sharp right-angled turn towards the racecourse stables past the protruding Sticky Toffee Pudding Shop were pretty alarming even in a smallish vehicle; I can only imagine what the place is like on race days, as lines of lorry-sized boxes duel with racegoers in the village streets. Yet, if you want to set peaceful bumbling aside, it’s also possible to

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escape the gentleness of Cartmel and find exercise and soaring skyscapes on a felltop less than an hour’s walk away, a fell many don’t know exists even though it does have its place in the hand-drawn beauty of Alfred Wainwright’s Outlying Fells of Lakeland. But before setting out to explore and do the fellwalker thing, take time to enjoy the village. You have to visit the Priory, which was founded as an Augustinian house in the late 12th century and was the home of a community of canons until the Dissolution. The Priory Church has survived and continues to serve the community and visitors as a place of worship, peace and prayer. Look out especially for the Priory’s sculptures by the celebrated Josefina de Vasconcellos. Then, perhaps, have a stroll round the village, dropping in to that shop to acquire some sticky toffee pudding for later. The racecourse is on the western edge of the village and it’s difficult to imagine a more scenic venue for the Sport of Kings. Racehorses are also trained locally and you may see them exercising as you strike out into the countryside. There are no high fells nearby, but the Cumbrian Coastal Way passes close to the village while the Cistercian Way also intrudes on this Augustinian territory. But for the visitor of a more fellwalking frame of mind, there’s only one place to head for, and that’s Hampsfell. If you have an older OS map, like mine, this 727ft summit may be shown as Hampsfield Fell, but in more recent editions the OS seems finally to have listened to local people who have long

Above: Houses with creepers and hanging baskets; the famous sticky toffee pudding.

truncated the name to Hampsfell. It is part of the ridge of carboniferous limestone that gives a Dales-like flavour to much of the Lakeland fringe. Hampsfell is a popular walk from Grange-over-Sands but is also easily visited from Cartmel. From anywhere on the Hampsfell ridge you are reminded of how close you are to the sea in the form of the tawny sprawl of Morecambe Bay; Cartmel village has a misleading deep-rural feel as if it could be 100 miles from salt water. The summit of the fell is rich in little limestone edges and shelves and some surprisingly extensive limestone pavements. On the very highest point is a small structure which, you’ll see from the map, is marked “hospice”. It was intended as a refuge and shelter for visitors: the sense that the name would have conveyed before the hospice movement changed our usage of the word. The building, which dates from 1846, was provided by the then vicar of Cartmel and includes a number of inscriptions, one of which is in Greek. It means “Rosy-fingered Dawn” apparently (meaning the glorious sight you see if you come here early, rather than some red-handed local lass). An inscription inside the building begins: This hospice has an open door Alike to welcome rich and poor A roomy seat for young and old Where they may screen them from the cold. Which is nice. On the upper viewing platform there’s a later addition, a viewpoint indicator. It’s an odd survival, in surprisingly good condition, but you’ll

TOM RICHARDSON

Above: A view across the Leven Estuary. Left: An award-winning restaurant that attracts discerning diners to Cartmel. Below: A rider in a lane that leads from the village; Cartmel Priory; the hospice on the hill.

probably be more interested in the fascinating limestone rock architecture that surrounds the summit and perhaps in the wild flora growing in season. To the north, the great fells of Lakeland will call to you while to the east Ingleborough in the Yorkshire Dales is surprisingly impressive from here. In any event, as you stand on top of this high lump of creamy limestone set above the moat of the Kent Estuary and Morecambe Bay, you’ll be glad you decided to make time to visit Cartmel. It may be cosy and comfortable and welcoming, but there’s a real fell to visit while you’re there. And there’s still your sticky toffee pudding to look forward to. DAVID MCVEY

THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017

59

ALL THE of the

FUN

FAIR

T

here is nothing quite like the joy of a brightly painted, brilliantly lit English fair with excited children grasping their candyfloss sticks and toffee apples, young men trying to win a prize at the darts stall and impress their girlfriends by handing them a giant cuddly toy and dads sportingly agreeing to take a turn on the big wheel even though they are still feeling the effects of a heavy lunch. Yes, we just love all the fun of the fair. The traditional English fair has been a part of our heritage for centuries. Nobody really knows how it started, but clearly it has developed over the years from its origins as a market. There were weekly and daily markets even in Roman times but when the Middle Ages arrived those markets that were not daily events became more specialised and much bigger. There were mop fairs at which workers presented themselves for hire. The “mop” part came because domestics would show what they did by carrying a mop, but there were other forms of employment represented at these fairs and the men and women would carry a tool or something symbolic of their work. Shepherds held a crook or a tuft of wool, cowmen brought wisps of straw, and dairymaids carried a milking stool or pail. Prospective employers would look them over and, if they liked what they saw, they would hire them for the coming year, handing them a shilling to seal the deal. Of course, markets and fairs of that sort attracted big crowds who wanted something to eat and to have some fun so it was not long before games started to appear as well as buskers and other entertainers including animal acts and attractions. The early fairground rides started to appear as well but they were a long way off the computer-driven super-rides of today.

JON JAYES

Stratford-upon-Avon, Tewkesbury, Banbury and Warwick are among a number of English towns which still hold mop fairs although the tradition now only lives on by name and by the presence of a fun fair in the town centre. There were also trade fairs, of course, and many of them still exist. Appleby Fair in Westmorland is a great example. Traditionally a horse fair which began life in the late 17th century, it attracts vast numbers of travellers. Other trade fairs seem to have gone in a different direction and are now held in major venues with little sign of any fairground rides. One of the most famous fairs was the River Thames frost fair. It is often reported that this happened only once, but in fact the event occurred a number of times between the 17th and An illustration of a frost fair on the Thames in the 18th century, Nottingham Goose Fair in 1908 and (above) beautifully painted rides on a carousel.

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BRYAN LEDGARD

A helter-skelter on Hampstead Heath, 1938; a boxing booth and forerunner of the ghost train (1900); Appleby Horse Fair; traditional fun-fair rides at Peterborough Show.

JON JAYES

early 19th centuries when the great river froze sufficiently for some serious fun. Henry VIII is reputed to have travelled by sleigh along the frozen river in 1536 and even Queen Elizabeth I is said to have got her skates on to enjoy the novelty of sliding across the river. The first frost fair appears to have been organised in 1608, although perhaps “organised” is not quite the right word since organising something that may or may not happen does seem a little pointless. In fact, when word got round that the Thames was frozen people were drawn to it, and where there are people there is trade — as many of the caterers, buskers and so on of the time were very well aware. Among the attractions were sleigh rides, horse and coach racing, bull-baiting, puppets, music, makeshift roundabouts, strolling players, games and even, on one occasion, an elephant. An enterprising artist created souvenir cards on which you could have your name included. Fairs became more thrilling as the years went by. The enterprising Victorians introduced a wide range of exciting new rides including steam-driven carousels, mostly with horse themes but also including other exotic animals. During the same century fairgrounds also began to have the new attractions of steamboats and tunnel rides which added to the thrill by being

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‘ALL THE FUN OF THE FAIR’ (continued)

covered. It was at the end of the century that the big wheel came into favour and which has grown in popularity ever since. In the early 20th century came the caterpillar, the cake walk and eventually the dodgems. The rides became bigger and more colourful but they were not alone in their development and their popularity. Traditional fairground games also came into their own with hoopla, hooka-duck, ball-in-a-bucket, toss-a-penny, shooting ranges and, of course, the famous coconut shy which took over from the traditional Aunt Sally. The prizes ranged from cuddly toys to fruit baskets, sweets and even money. Of course, winning was not that simple — nothing changes very much on that score. The exotic goldfish later became a popular prize if you were able to get a ping-pong ball into an empty goldfish bowl. Some did and many homes were enriched by the addition of a new pet. Having goldfish as prizes has largely been outlawed in recent times but many a goldfish from a fun fair lived to a ripe old age after it ceased travelling. I can remember in the 1950s winning two and they lived on for decades. Mind you, as a boy I can also remember winning the top prize of £1 on another stall. I was given a 10 shilling note and a box of chocolates. That A fortune-teller at Stow-onthe-Wold, Gloucestershire. wasn’t exactly £1 but the stall owner DEREK STAFFORD did not look like the sort of person to argue with. So the fairgrounds developed into magical places of wonderful rides and games of skill — or luck. They also developed into places of fantastic smells with hot dogs and onions blending beautifully with the seductive aroma of candyfloss. So what is missing? Of course — the sideshows! During the centuries the brilliant sideshows became more and more entertaining and outrageous, but sadly they are now almost a thing of the past. The joy of sideshow operators of past centuries was that they could exhibit just about

Curious England

In 1701 the first crocod anything without being ile was brought to England by Essex res challenged by political ident Richard Bradley who kept it in correctness and make the lake and grounds of his home in Braintree. any claim they chose without issue being taken. If a showman said that he had a giant rat which had been caught in the London sewers there was nobody to challenge him. The fact that it was a capybara was largely unknown. The “real live” mermaid was exactly that — sort of. Yes, all right, it was a carefully constructed costume. But who cared? It was fun. The “giant octopus” was seen to breathe — a gruesome creature. The fact that it was made of rubber and had a concealed pipe through which air was pumped to appear to be its breath was of little consequence. Freaks of all sort were not only exhibited but were paid good money to do what for most was the only job they would ever be able to hold down. Fairground variety shows, circus performances, swordswallowers, fire-eaters, acrobats and performing animals from lions to fleas were all part of this special area of show business. And let us not forget the boxing and wrestling booths and the wonderful wall-of-death. There are still some of those going the rounds too: always a great show. Fortune-tellers have been very popular throughout the centuries and can tell you anything about the future until you ask them which town they are going to next. They can’t tell you just in case you are from the tax office! All these developments through the centuries have served to bring us to today’s fun fairs both travelling and static. Many showmen like the permanent sites at the seaside or at theme parks because they save so much on fuel costs and other expenses, but there are still plenty of travelling showmen who would not want to change their lifestyle for anything. They are members of fairground families that stretch back through the centuries. Their hot dogs might now come with curry sauce, their rides might be louder and even more colourful and frightening, but their cuddly toys are still difficult to win. The showmen are keeping alive the tradition of the fun fair. Candyfloss BERNARD BALE anybody?

After the Fair The singers are gone from the Cornmarket-place With their broadsheets of rhymes, The street rings no longer in treble and bass With their skits on the times, And the Cross, lately thronged, is a dim naked space That but echoes the stammering chimes.

The shy-seeming maiden so mute in the fair Now rattles and talks, And that one who looked the most swaggering there Grows sad as she walks, And she who seemed eaten by cankering care In statuesque sturdiness stalks.

JON JAYES

From Clock-corner steps, as each quarter ding-dongs, Away the folk roam By the “Hart” and Grey’s Bridge into byways and “drongs”, Or across the ridged loam; The younger ones shrilling the lately heard songs, The old saying, “Would we were home”.

And midnight clears High Street of all but the ghosts Of its buried burghees, From the latest far back to those old Roman hosts Whose remains one yet sees, Who loved, laughed, and fought, hailed their friends, drank their toasts At their meeting-times here, just as these! THOMAS HARDY (1840-1928)

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THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017

63

Centenary of the First World War

PASSCHENDAELE “…It was the last ball of the over. The blacksmith glared at the umpire…took another reef in his belt, shook out another inch in his braces, spat on his hand…grasped the ball tightly in his colossal palm and…marched off…over the brow of the hill. At last, after a long stillness, the ground shook, the grasses waved violently, small birds arose with shrill clamours…and the blacksmith, looking more like Venus Anadyomene than ever, came thundering over the crest…It was the charge of Von Bredow’s Dragoons at Gravelotte over again.”

I

n writing what is probably the funniest story of an English village cricket match in his wonderful book, England, Their England, A. G. Macdonell seems to have been intoxicated with delight, his imagination seeking both absurdity and reality within a world of schoolboy fun. It was a world where to be English meant Empire, King and Country, cricket, villages and football. Macdonell had the idea for the book when sheltering with a

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fellow Gunner Subaltern in a bunker on Passchendaele Ridge during the battle in 1917. It would have allowed them both to forget the world of mud — mud which swallowed alive soldiers and animals alike and through which, despite appeals to stop, the British Commander, General Haig, for week after week sent his men to attack the Germans at the top of the ridge. Below the ridge, a rough semicircle like a cup-less saucer broken in half, lies the city of Ypres. Since 1914 the

Germans had been trying to come down to the middle and to take the city, while the British held on to it and the perimeter around it, known as the Ypres Salient, and stopped them. They never took Ypres. Something had to be done. But 1917 was a year of mixed fortunes for the war effort of both sides. There was a German withdrawal to the Hindenburg Line, leaving behind a belt of destruction with poisoned water supplies and ruined buildings akin to

Left: Frank Hurley’s famous image of Australian troops passing through the devastated Chateau Wood on 29th October 1917. Above: A British 18-pounder battery at Boesinghe. Below: The shell-pocked battlefield; Tyne Cot Cemetery.

STEVE DOUGLAS

that of Sherman’s March to the Sea in the American Civil War in 1864. In April the Canadians had success at Vimy Ridge but immediately after that French General Nivelle fought, and lost, a disastrous and costly battle at the Chemin des Dames, which led to widespread mutinies. Then, capping these events, the Germans’ use of unrestricted submarine warfare was causing ever greater hardships at home in Britain. General Haig, the British Commander-in-Chief, convinced the Government that by attacking in force along the Ypres Salient a drive could be made to the German submarine bases along the coast, thus reducing the huge shipping losses which had resulted in rationing at home. They agreed, but first Haig had to take the Passchendaele Ridge before he could advance. This job he gave to General Plumer. On 7th June 1917 General Plumer’s 2nd Army, in a well-planned attack,

took the southern end of the Ridge around Messines, and then for some seven weeks more Haig readied his forces for the main attack on Passchendaele, while the Germans on top of the Ridge watched from their concrete pillboxes behind barbed wire and readied their new weapon — mustard gas. The main battle opened on 31st July. Intensive artillery bombardments and torrential rainfall had turned the ground into a quagmire pitted with shell holes full of water so that every step promised death, not just from the German fire and gas but from the glutinous, hungry mud.

The attack floundered and Haig was pressured to stop the offensive. He didn’t until 10th November when Passchendaele village was captured — but at the cost of an estimated 300,000 British casualties. Of those killed some 12,000 are buried at Tyne Cot CWGC Cemetery which sits on the ridge astride the remains of German bunkers. Today’s visitor to the battlefield should start at Tyne Cot. Here you can count a fraction of the cost and see the battlefield across which the British advanced. This is the largest CWGC cemetery in the world with 11,953 graves, many of them unknown. There is also a huge curved Memorial Wall upon which are the names of almost 35,000 dead from August 1917 to the end of the war. Their bodies were never found. Among them is the poet, 2nd Lt. William Hamilton, a lecturer in Philosophy at University College, Cape Town, who volunteered in the Coldstream Guards in August 1916, 

THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017

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‘CENTENARY OF THE FIRST WORLD WAR’ (continued)

and who was killed on 12th October 1917. In his bitter War Sonnet No. 1, Hamilton questions how those …who lightly talk of England’s debt; Who muddle into government and war… shall meet this greater debt incurred of reasonable hope outraged… …by the death of the youth whose golden promise was spilt. Also named here is the poet, Captain Eric Fitzwater Wilkinson MC, West Yorks, (pictured) killed on 9th October 1917. He vividly describes the reality of the guns’ bombardment in the ironically entitled “TwentiethCentury Civilisation”: There’s a roar like a thousand hells set free, And the riven, tortured ground Sways like a tempest-smitten tree; And the earth shoots up in jets all around And blows like spray at sea. The trench is soon a hideous mess Of yawning holes and scattered mud And tangled wire and splintered wood, And some poor shapeless things you’d guess Were once made up of nerves and blood But now are no more good Than the tattered sandbags — nay, far less, For these can still be used again. Another notable poet killed on the first day of the battle was L. C. Hobson whose name is on the Menin Gate, probably the most visited memorial in the world, under which Belgian buglers sound the Last Post at 2000 hours every day of the year in gratitude for the British defence of Belgium. One verse in Hobson’s “War” summarises tellingly the steady toll of death: Oh! Comrades of the old time The weary months go by, New faces are about me New friends with me to die! Lt. Aidan Chavasse, also on the Menin Gate (together with the names of 54,000 others missing with no

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The headstone of double VC winner Noel Chavasse; the authors holding original bugles, with Last Post Chairman Benoit Mottrie.

known grave from the outbreak of war in August 1914 to 15th August 1917), was the younger brother of Capt. Noel Chavasse, the only double VC who won both the medal and its bar in the First World War. Noel was killed on 4th August during the battle, one month after his brother. His headstone is in Brandhoek New Military CWGC Cemetery. It is easier to find information about a soldier who did not return than it is for one who survived. But to find out more about those who died there are two particular websites to go to. The Commonwealth War Graves Commission site (www.cwgc.org) is easy to use and self-explanatory but one little-used search can be very useful: finding out if anyone from your home town was killed during the battle of Passchendale. Typing in www.cwgc.org/findwar-dead.aspx brings up the site page which is used to search. Let us suppose that your name is Davenport and you wish to discover first of all if any of your ancestors, who also had that name, were killed during the war. Put the name Davenport into the “Surname” box, select First World War in the “War” box and click “Search”. You will get around 200 results. Now let us see how many were killed during the battle of Passchendaele. Put the dates of the battle (31st July – 10th November 1917) into the respective Further Information

starting and ending “Date of Death” boxes in the “Refine Search” column and click. You will get some 15 results. Now you decide to see if any came from your home town (say Birmingham). This is the option that is rarely used, though of course you can only get out information that is held by the Commission. Type “Birmingham” in the box labelled “Additional Information” and click the “Refine Search” option again. The number reduces to two! If any readers find relatives as a result of this sequence that they had not known about before, the authors would love to know (battlefields@ guide-books.co.uk) The Last Post Association (www. lastpost.be), a self-funding voluntary group which runs the nightly Last Post Ceremony, has an excellent app full of information and interesting facts, such as a day-by-day total of the names to be found on the Menin Gate. While this cannot in any way be an accurate measure of those “Missing” along the whole Western Front, it does offer a likefor-like comparison. The figures given for 31st July, the first day of the Passchendaele battle, are 4,480 names — the previous day there were 117! The 31st July figure is greater than the totals for most of the months during the whole of the war and these men simply disappeared in the mud. TONIE and VALMAI HOLT

The authors started running tours to the battlefields, worldwide, some 40 years ago, and more information on the sites mentioned above and hundreds of other places of interest are to be found in their newly published Definitive Battlefield Guide to the Ypres Salient & Passchendaele: 100th Anniversary Edition, available by post direct from This England. For further details see page 85.

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A collection of customs, curiosities and coming events Awakening for Emery Walker’s House

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he best-preserved Arts and Crafts home in Britain has reopened after an 18-month closure for vital restoration work. Emery Walker’s House at 7 Hammersmith Terrace, London, was the home of one of the key members of the Arts and Crafts Movement, a close friend of William Morris and father of the Private Press Movement. The contents of Sir Emery Walker’s riverside home — around 6,000 items — were removed for cataloguing and conservation. This allowed vital repair work to be carried out, creating a safer environment for the remarkable collection. This has now been returned to the atmospheric time capsule, which is packed with Arts and Crafts treasures, including one of the largest in situ collections of Morris & Co. wallpapers in the world, and outstanding textiles and embroideries. Amongst Walker’s many possessions are items which were created especially for, or given to him by his close friends and colleagues; leading artists of their day. These include Morris’s 17th-century library chair, Philip Webb furniture and glass, ceramics by William de Morgan and a Burne-Jones portrait of May Morris. Extended opening hours mean visitors can step back in time on Thursdays and Saturdays when there will be three tours a day. These must be pre-booked online, as the size and fragile interiors of this Georgian, terraced house mean only eight visitors can enter at a time. Visitors are accompanied by an expert guide and steward, making it a unique and intimate experience, with a new exhibition space

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offering the chance to get close to, and even handle, some of the objects in the collection. The house has extended its tour season until 25th November and has launched a new website. For further information go to: www. emerywalker.org.uk .

Capability Returns to Trentham Gardens

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striking bronze statue of the renowned landscape gardener Lancelot “Capability” Brown (1716-1783) is on display in Staffordshire, until spring 2018, at the awardwinning Trentham Gardens, Stoke-on-Trent. Created by Laury Dizengremel, Artist in Residence at Belvoir Castle, the statue is the first-ever life-size figure of “the father of landscape architecture” and based on a portrait by the noted Richard Cosway RA for its likeness. Brown worked on the landscape at Trentham between 1759 and 1780 for the Earl Gower, remodelling the milelong lake and the surrounding parklands in his distinctive style. While Trentham’s landscape has been subsequently altered and enhanced over the centuries,

including the addition of Charles Barry’s Italian Garden, Brown’s important legacy remains and is currently being restored as part of his tercentenary. Brown’s statue gives the impression that he has returned to inspect this work and, with plans tucked under his arm, is eagerly striding towards the west side of the lake to inspect the progress being made. Eventually, the statue will be permanently placed beside the River Thames at Hammersmith, close to where Brown lived for some years. GRAHAM BEBBINGTON

British Entertainment History Project

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ince 1987, volunteer members of The British Entertainment History Project have been quietly and painstakingly recording audio and camera interviews with men and women working in the British film, television, radio and theatre industries to ensure that their experiences are preserved for future generations. The interviews tell us about the challenges they had to overcome, the skills they employed, and the enduring

Visitors on a guided tour of the reopened Emery Walker’s House, an Arts and Crafts gem in London. ANNA KUNST © EMERY WALKER’S TRUST

The statue of Capability Brown, which is currently on display at Trentham Gardens, Staffordshire. LYNNE BEBBINGTON

human relationships they forged as Britain developed into one of the world’s major centres of the entertainment industry. Some interviews are more than 10 hours long and are important social documents of our time. The project has now grown into a unique collection of some 700 interviews, including Sir Richard and David Attenborough, Lord David Puttnam, Sheila Hancock, Virginia McKenna and hundreds of others from all walks of life who have worked in our entertainment industries over the last century. Among them are film editors, hair and make-up artists, actors, projectionists, writers and directors of photography to name a few. Each interview is uploaded to the project’s new website (www.historyproject.org.uk) for use by students, researchers and anyone who wishes to know more about those who have worked in front of, or behind

the camera or microphone. Through these rare interviews, the project has tapped into a rich vein of anecdotal and historical evidence of working practices and experiences that could otherwise be lost over time. The project welcomes suggestions for interviewees who have a story to tell and from individuals interested in assisting them with this fascinating and important work. All enquiries to the Project Secretary: Sue Malden at sue.malden@ btinternet.com . DEREK THREADGALL

Shropshire Surprise for Poet’s Admirers

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surprise awaits admirers of the poet A.E. Housman if they pay a visit to one of the places mentioned in A Shropshire Lad. Housman celebrates the village church at Hughley, near Much Wenlock, in his much-loved cycle of 63 verses, published in 1896. He writes: “The vane on Hughley steeple, veers bright a far known sign. And there lie Hughley people, and there lie friends of mine.” But Housman was employing artistic licence and in fact there is no steeple at Hughley — although it does have a brick and timber bell tower. Another surprise for lovers of the poet’s evocative work is the fact that he wasn’t a Shropshire lad at all. Alfred Edward Housman was born near Bromsgrove, in Worcestershire, in 1859, but had “a sentimental feeling for Shropshire because its hills were our western horizon”. However, his name is indelibly associated with his land of lost content, in life as well as in death. His ashes are buried in the grounds of St Laurence’s Church in Ludlow, Shropshire, within sight of “those blue remembered hills”. LYNNE HAYWARD

Final Launch Down Selsey’s RNLI Slipway

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t the start of April, thousands of people gathered on the beach in the Sussex resort of Selsey to see the last launch of the town’s lifeboat down the slipway into the English Channel. The boathouse was built in 1958 at a cost of £75,000. The 120-yard gangway was built using steel and timber decking. The slipway was manufactured

Above: The tower of St. Laurence’s Church — where A. E. Housman’s ashes are buried — stands proud above the market town of Ludlow, MIKE HAYWARD Shropshire. Right: No steeple, but a very attractive brick and timber bell tower — St. John the Baptist Church at Hughley, Shropshire. JOHN HAYWARD

from steel and set on concrete piers. Operational since April 1960 the RNLI lifeboat station was opened by the Duke of Richmond and Gordon from Goodwood House. During the 57 years of use there have been three different classes of lifeboat stationed in Selsey — the last one, a Tyne Class, was operational from 2006 until April this year. The Selsey lifeboat has been launched 972 times in its lifetime and has assisted 850 people. On several occasions the lifeboat slipway has been used for other purposes including as a filming location for advertisements. Timex Watches and, appropriately enough, Fisherman’s Friend lozenges have filmed commercials here. Lacoste clothing also made films advertising their range of clothes in the 1980s and ’90s. More recently, the Birdman Rally was staged here before relocating to Bognor Regis.

Selsey lifeboat crews are based on a volunteer basis and have, like other RNLI crews around the country, been saving lives at sea since 1861. The crew in Selsey have been awarded 10 gallantry medals in that time. There is now a new building on the beach in Selsey which will house the new Shannon Class lifeboat. A concept that harks back to the original days when lifeboats were launched from the beaches around England, this new class of lifeboat will boast a state-of-the art launch and recovery system straight from the shoreline. JOHN BLAKE

Penguin’s Place of Literary Inspiration

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he founder of Penguin Books, Sir Allen Lane, has been honoured with a plaque at Exeter St. David’s railway station. It was while waiting on

The old RNLI station at Selsey has now been replaced by a new one on the beach.

the station platform in 1934, after visiting Agatha Christie, that the publisher came up with the idea of the sixpenny paperbacks to make books readily available and affordable (see This England, Winter 2015). The plaque was unveiled by Sir Allen Lane’s daughters Clare Morpurgo and Christine Teale. Clare Morpurgo commented: “It is wonderful to be able to celebrate my father’s contribution to literature in the UK. I know he would be delighted to see how many people have fallen in love with reading since Penguin Books first put quality books into the hands of readers everywhere. “Given Exeter’s integral role in my father’s story, I could not think of a better place for this plaque to stand.” Sir Allen Lane went on to found Penguin Books alongside his two brothers Richard and John, and co-founding editor V.K. Krishna Menon in 1935. More ‘CORNUCOPIA’ overleaf THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017

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‘CORNUCOPIA’ (continued)

Russian Soldiers at Rest in Wiltshire

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n July 1940, the Germans took complete control of the Channel Island of Alderney. By May 1942, having built four camps on the island, the Schutzstaffel SS Baubrigade began to ship in 6,000 POWs, mostly East Europeans, to build military fortifications, as forced labour. About 1,600 of the POWs were Soviet soldiers, captured during the later part of 1941. During their time on Alderney they were brutally treated, starved and forced to work long hours in all conditions. Many were executed because they were too ill to work. Approximately 700 died on the island. Just before the end of 1944, the Germans, to try and avoid war crimes trials, shipped the remaining prisoners back to France. When the British liberated Alderney on 16th May 1945, they found three Russian POWs hiding in a derelict cottage. They were starving and all had wounds from their treatment by the SS. The three were taken by the Red Cross ship Vega to Weymouth. From there they were moved to the Tidworth Military Hospital in Wiltshire, but sadly they could not be saved. All three: Nikolay Horiacyk, Alexei Noyakres and Stanislav Suleimanow were buried, side by side, in the Military Cemetery at Tidworth Garrison. On or about Motherland Day, 23rd February, each year two officials from the Russian Embassy in London visit the graves to lay wreaths in

The congregation gathered at Canterbury Cathedral to celebrate 300 years of the Freemasons.

remembrance. The three graves continue to be meticulously cared for by the MOD gardening staff. STEVE KEMP

Canterbury Welcomes England’s Freemasons

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n February, the Dean of Canterbury Cathedral, the Very Revd. Dr. Robert Willis, presided over a special service in the presence of HRH The Duke of Kent: a celebration of 300 years of Freemasonry in England. Some very great names — Kipling, Conan Doyle, Ernest Shackleton, King George V (and indeed, our present Duke of Kent) — have been associated with this illustrious fraternal order; and over the years many hundreds of thousands of pounds have been raised for good causes — including one million for the Royal College of Surgeons, “for the betterment of mankind.” Canterbury Cathedral’s Restoration Fund has also received £300,000 from the

Russian soldiers’ graves at the Military Cemetery, Tidworth Garrison, Wiltshire.

Freemasons of East and West Kent, Sussex and Surrey, in addition to support for a scheme that trains modern-day apprentice stonemasons. Many other community good causes in the South East have also received the benefit of Masonic involvement. With music ranging from Parry’s I was Glad, to the singing by the 1,500-strong contingent of Freemasons of All people that on earth do dwell, the special service confirmed the great history of a remarkable organisation. STUART MILLSON

Golden Age of London’s Coffee Houses

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amuel Pepys raved about them, Charles Dickens wrote his unforgettable characters into them and many gave birth to our most famous institutions. For 200 years London’s colourful coffee houses played a sparkling role in the life of the nation. For as little as a penny they promised a cup of steaming fresh coffee among lively company and laughter and, some claimed, a universitylevel education for life. So great a Universitie I think there ne’er was any In which you may a scholar be For spending a Penny. So reported News From The Coffee Houses in 1677 delighting in the extraordinary value for money to be found in the capital’s coffee houses. In those days, without radio and television, speaking-out publicly was one of the only ways to be heard. In the warm companionship of the coffee house almost

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anyone wanting to share their latest idea or opinion could be sure of a listening ear. For only a penny, coffee was served in such a welcoming atmosphere many patrons claimed they spent more time there than in their own home. Not surprisingly coffee house lanterns glowed well into the night. It all started in 1650 when the rich aroma of coffee wafted through the streets of Oxford as the first-ever coffee house opened its doors. Shortly after, the Pasqa Rosee offered its attractions in London’s St. Michael’s Alley. Together they launched a fashion that was to give birth to 3,000 coffee houses in London by the mid18th century. Leading wits and experts of the day were soon attracted to them and the idea grew that for a mere trifle, patrons would be educated to university standard. In an age when knowing your place was important the coffee houses beckoned to everyone. “All People May Here Be Seen” was a motto seen in many of London’s venues. Visitors from abroad were amazed to see ordinary folk regularly poring over papers and discussing the latest political scene. Still, patrons did favour their own special haunts. The coffee houses of Westminster and Whitehall rang with the gossip of politicians and admirers of high-society while Samuel Pepys sparked the reputation of Wills in Covent Garden as the “favourite of the wits in town”. Charles Dickens lived only a few steps away from Woods at Furnival Inn, Holborn, when he began to write Pickwick Papers. In other coffee houses, partnerships and business plans were hatched and grew into spectacular successes. Insurance underwriters founded the world famous Lloyd’s of London in a coffee house and the Stock Exchange and Commercial Union began in a similar way. Even posting a letter overseas became no problem. A quick trip to the local haunt provided patrons with paper, pens, ink and newspapers and magazines. Reporters, known as runners, circulated among the coffee rooms keeping everyone up-todate with the latest news. Coffee remained popular into Georgian times, when it began to suffer from competition from tea. It failed to become the national drink and could only be afforded by the well-

off. Towards the end of the coffee house era many havens returned to their original role of tavern or wine house. But by then, London’s coffee houses had kindled an astonishing level of sociability among all classes of the population. That openness gave birth to creativity and innovation on a remarkable scale and even today we are reaping benefits from those wonderfully welcoming penny universities of bygone days. IAN SAMSON

New Exhibition Quarter at the V&A

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t the end of June the V&A opened its new Exhibition Road Quarter with a week-long festival, REVEAL, celebrating the museum’s new architecture, heritage and history. This year marks the V&A’s 165th anniversary and the Exhibition Road Quarter, designed by the Stirling Prizewinning British architect Amanda Levete and her practice AL_A is the museum’s largest architectural intervention in the last century. This innovative and ambitious project will create beautiful new public areas and gallery spaces for London, transforming the experience of the V&A for visitors, and revealing historic facades of the V&A’s existing Grade I buildings for the first time. Visitors will be able to enter the V&A Exhibition Road Quarter through the arches of the renovated 1909 Aston Webb Screen, opening up the museum to its neighbours on Exhibition Road. The new spaces include: The Sainsbury Gallery, a versatile exhibition space purpose-built for the V&A’s world-leading programme of temporary exhibitions; The Sackler Courtyard, the world’s first all-porcelain public courtyard, inspired by the rich tradition of ceramics at the V&A; The Blavatnik Hall, a new entrance into the V&A that will transform how visitors experience and discover the museum and its collections.

Aviation and Railway History United

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unique piece of history has been unveiled at the Battle of Britain Memorial in Kent following the presentation

Artists participating in the V&A’s Reveal Festival to celebrate the opening of the museum’s new Exhibition Road Quarter. © VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM

of the original nameplate and squadron badge from a classic steam locomotive. The Battle of Britain Locomotive Society presented the items from Battle of Britain class Pacific locomotive No. 34081 at a ceremony at the Nene Valley Railway. The nameplate and the badge of No. 92 Squadron — famously based at Biggin Hill during the Battle of Britain in 1940 — will go on display at the Battle of Britain Memorial in Capel-leFerne, home to the National Memorial to the Few. The long-term loan of the historic items was suggested by the preservation society as a way of ensuring the items could be displayed “in a truly appropriate setting”. The items will be displayed in The Wing, the Trust’s visitor centre, where the Scramble Experience brings the

Battle of Britain to life and pays tribute to the men of the RAF who made sure this country emerged victorious in 1940. Locomotive No. 34081 entered service in September 1948 but was withdrawn in August 1964 and subsequently sold to Dai Woodham’s scrapyard at Barry Island in South Wales. Purchased by the preservation society in autumn 1973, she arrived at Wansford on the Nene Valley Railway, near Peterborough, in December 1976. Following restoration, she moved, under her own power, in 1998 — the first time since 1964 — and became a regular on various heritage railways until being withdrawn for overhaul at the North Norfolk Railway in May 2008. The locomotive returned to service on the Nene Valley Railway in February after seven

Biblical quotations on high above a shop in Marlborough, Wiltshire.

years of extensive restoration work. She was rededicated at a ceremony at Wansford Station during which a Spitfire from the Battle of Britain Memorial Flight performed a flypast. After the rededication, replica nameplates were unveiled on the locomotive by Wing Commander Tim McAuley, Officer Commanding No. 92 Squadron RAF, so that the original nameplate and badge could be handed over to the Trust.

Look Up for Wise Words from Above

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mongst the many fine buildings in the Wiltshire town of Marlborough’s main street, is one with its upper storey handsomely decorated in brickwork amidst timber framing. A black-framed window is separated by four carved coats of arms with dates of significance to the town or the building: 1408 Henry IV, 1577 Elizabeth I, 1657 Oliver Cromwell and 1687 James II. But what really caught my eye was the barge board bearing the date 1925 (presumably the date of restoration) and a quotation: “A word fitly spoken is like apples of gold in pictures of silver.” Not hard to track down, it’s from the Book of Proverbs Chapter 25, Verse 11, but why here? Does it refer to some long-gone dispute in the street market below, or a general homily to the good people of Marlborough? Perhaps someone will tell us. DAVID HUNTER THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017

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Unless stated at the end of the review, books featured on these pages are not available direct from This England. For details of books that can be ordered from us, please see page 85. VERY HEATH ROBINSON Stories of his absurdly ingenious world by Adam Hart-Davis (Sheldrake £40) ISBN 9781-8733-29481

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o strange and convoluted were his contraptions that his name is now synonymous with anything considered vaguely ridiculous. Often drawn in the greatest of detail, his cartoons poked fun at every strata of society during the late 19th century right up until his death in 1944, but always in the gentlest possible way. The author is a well-known television presenter and his pithy comments against each drawing greatly enhance this large volume. (238pp, hardback) Very Heath Robinson is available by post from This England at the greatly reduced price of £30, inc. p/p. For further details see page 85.

BRITAIN’S HERITAGE — (all Amberley £8.99)

DINKY TOYS by David Busfield ISBN 9781-4456-65801 THE SIXTIES RAILWAY by Greg Morse ISBN 9781-4456-65764 ALLOTMENTS by Twigs Way ISBN 9781-4456-65702 THE 1950s HOME by Janet & John Shepherd ISBN 9781-4456-65689 BEACH HUTS by Karen Averby ISBN 9781-4456-65740 FIRE STATIONS by Billy Reading ISBN 9781-4456-65825

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his is a fine new series at a bargain price. The illustrations and pictures are excellent and the informative text is most revealing, even for the expert. Each book is a gem with fascinating historical detail. (64pp, paperback)

Dinky Toys first appeared in 1931 and proved a sensation. Initially highly successful they suddenly but sadly succumbed to a rapidly changing international toy market (see Britain’s Heritage — Dinky Toys).

METROBURBIA

ISLANDS OF ENGLAND

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The Anatomy of Greater London by Paul Knox (Merrell £35) ISBN 9781-8589-46511 n excellent well-illustrated large volume about the changing urban landscape of the metropolis. Historians and geographers will be equally delighted at the contents and unusual photographs. (224pp, hardback)

The North West by Geoffrey Berriman (Redshank £8.50) ISBN 9781-9113-85127

his brilliant little book is the second in a series tracing all our islands — large, small and tiny. Excellent pictures and text make fine reading. (96pp, paperback)

THE RAILWAY EXPERIENCE by Paul Atterbury (Shire £9.99) ISBN 9781-7844-21236

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nother splendid collection of archive pictures selected by a well-known transport enthusiast. Ranging from 1900 up until the Beeching era there is something here for everyone. (112pp, hardback) One of hundreds of similar cartoons, Heath Robinson’s “Kinecar” was designed to keep passengers amused while returning home from a winter night out. (see Very Heath Robinson).

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The Railway Experience is available by post from This England. For further details see page 85.

Schoolboys clambering over two engines during an open day in 1961. Can you imagine this today? (see The Railway Experience).

VILLA ASTOR (Flammarion £40) ISBN 97820813-75925

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large coffee table book compiled by several authors about the life of William Waldorf Astor, at home and in Italy. (280pp, hardback)

THE VICTORIA CROSS WARS

In the foreground of this picture from 1933 is the liner “Olympic”, sister ship to the ill-fated “Titanic” and “Britannic”. In the background is “Empress of Britain”, the largest liner to be sunk during the Second World War (see England’s Maritime Heritage from the Air).

ENGLAND’S MARITIME HERITAGE FROM THE AIR

by Brian Best (Pen & Sword £25) ISBN 9780-4738-87367

by Peter Waller (Historic England, formerly English Heritage £35) ISBN 9780-7495-76974

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ooking at things from a new angle, the author is to be congratulated on tackling more than 50 campaigns in chronological order, thus creating an important addition to the canon of the Victoria Cross which will be welcomed by all military historians. (574pp, hardback)

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glorious aerial celebration of our industrial coastline — ports, piers, dockyards and all kinds of ships, ranging from the biggest liners to the smallest coasters. Most of the highdefinition photos are black and white but several recent colour images are included as well. A valuable archaeological volume. (296pp, hardback)

The Story of the English Language by Charlie Haylock and Barrie Appleby (Amberley £14.99) ISBN 9781-4456-63821

NATION, TRADITION AND LIBERTY

England’s Maritime Heritage from the Air is available by post from This England. For further details see page 85.

A

n this lively new book, the author, a determined antiEU federalist, details half a century spent on various good causes, including politics, English sport in general and football in particular. With a detailed analysis of previous political events it makes fine and compelling reading for all celebrating the result of last year’s EU referendum. (352pp, hardback)

IN A MANNER OF SPEAKING

marvellous contribution to the understanding of our everyday speech, tackling its historical development with the help of excellent and amusing cartoons (above). (256pp, paperback) In a Manner of Speaking is available by post from This England. For further details see page 85.

My 50 Year Campaign by Sam Swerling (Taw £20) ISBN 9780-9567-75337

I

HISTORIC COACHING INNS OF THE GREAT NORTH ROAD

GREAT BRITISH VILLAGE SHOW

P

C

by Roger Protz (Camra £12.99) ISBN 9781-8524-93394

ublished by the Campaign for Real Ale, this delightful book starts the traveller off in London, before stopping off at many famous inns along the old main road to Edinburgh. Each section has fascinating information about the pub and surrounding area, backed up by superb maps and pictures. (192pp, paperback)

CYCLE YORKSHIRE

by Jonathan Brown (Great Northern £17.99) ISBN 9780-9933-44787

B

right and colourful, this excellent book will please all cyclists and anyone interested in viewing evocative landscape photographs ranging across our biggest county. (192pp, hardback)

THE JANE AUSTEN MARRIAGE MANUAL by Helen Amy (Amberley £9.99) ISBN 9781-4456-51729

D

elving into the literary past, the author reveals how ladies and gentlemen like Elizabeth Bennet and Mr. Darcy may have corresponded prior to their nuptials. Tantalising letters and information. (286pp, paperback)

The yellow jersey, Marcel Kittel, and the rest of the peloton pass York Minster during the 2014 Tour de France (see Cycle Yorkshire).

by Thane Prince & Matthew Biggs (Dorling Kindersley £20) ISBN 9780-2412-55612 ompiled on behalf of the Royal Horticultural Society, and subtitled “What goes on behind the scenes — how to be a prizewinner” this is a terrific book crammed with superb colour illustrations of fruit, vegetables, plants and cakes. Highly recommended! (224pp, hardback)

A selection of famous apple varieties (see Great British Village Show). THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017



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‘ENGLISH BOOKS’ (continued)

RSPB HANDBOOK OF GARDEN WILDLIFE

by Peter Holden and Geoffrey Abbott (Bloomsbury £12.99) ISBN 9781-4729-30842

T Ring-necked parakeets are now common in parts of south east England (see RSPB Handbook of Garden Wildlife).

ARTHUR AND THE KINGS OF BRITAIN by Miles Russell (Amberley £20) ISBN 9781-4456-62749

I

nvestigating “historic truth behind the myths”, this academic tome will please everyone keen on Arthurian legends. (320pp, hardback)

MIDLAND MAIN LINES TO ST. PANCRAS AND CROSS COUNTRY by John Palmer (Pen & Sword £30) ISBN 9781-4729-30842

T

his large volume is aimed unashamedly at trainspotters, past and present. Excellent maps, great archive photos and informative text make it both valued and entertaining. (208pp, hardback)

his second edition makes a marvellous introduction to what lives around our home and covers every type of creature from the humble earthworm to the largest raptor. (256pp, paperback)

MY LIFE WITH PLANTS by Roy Lancaster (Filbert £25) ISBN 9780-9933-89252

T

IN AND AROUND CAMBRIDGE IN THE 1960s by Richard Gaunt (Fonthill £18.95) ISBN 9781-7815-55378

W

ell-written with fine black and white photos, this is a trip down memory lane for everyone, not just those whose good fortune was to study at this elite university more than 50 years ago. (192pp, paperback)

A

A Newcastle to Bristol express in 1961 (see Midland Main Lines).

Amelanchiers are graceful small trees with beautiful spring blossom and red leaves in the autumn (see Beth Chatto’s Shade Garden).

Few people enjoy unbroken sunshine around their home and, with the aid of many fine colour photos, Beth Chatto’s Shade Garden explains how to make the best of things all year round. (Pimpernel, 234pp, hardback, £12.99) ISBN 9780-9102-58224

by Chris Jukes (Brewin £9.95) ISBN 9781-8585-85529

A graduation ceremony suggests student days are almost over (see In and Around Cambridge).

In River Ouse Bargeman, David Lewis relates his time up and down the River Ouse in Yorkshire. (Pen & Sword, 192pp, hardback, £25) ISBN 9781-4738-80696 He’s back and Fergus, a Horse to be reckoned with by Jean Abernethy, will be appreciated by children and adults alike. His varied equine antics (right) are highly entertaining. (Quiller, 40pp, hardback, £12.95) ISBN 9781-5707-67906

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THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017

Prospective dog owners will welcome Choosing the Perfect Puppy by Pippa Mattinson, in which she analyses different breeds and what to look out for. (Ebury, 224pp, paperback, £25) ISBN 9781-7850-34374 Bus enthusiasts will be delighted with The London DMS by Matthew Wharmby, the history of a controversial vehicle which turned the tables on London Transport after being sold off. (Pen & Sword, 272pp, hardback, £30) ISBN 9781-7838-31739

his author and gardener needs no introduction to those with green fingers and in another book linked to the Royal Horticultural Society he outlines his travels at home and abroad. (310pp, hardback)

FORT DUNLOP

n enjoyable look back at the giant Dunlop rubber and tyre factory in Birmingham which was erected in 1916 and by 1954 employed 10,000 people. The iconic building still stands. (256pp, paperback)

Anyone interested in ancient manuscripts will enjoy The Art and History of Calligraphy by Patricia Lovett. (British Library, 224pp, hardback, £25) ISBN 9780-7123-56888

The Strange Death of Europe, Immigration, Identity and Islam by Douglas Murray should not be ignored. The author, who is Associate Editor of The Spectator, says it is “A controversial and devastatingly honest depiction of the demise of Europe”. (Bloomsbury, 334pp, hardback, £18.99) ISBN 9781-4729-42241 One Man and a Mule is Hugh Thomson’s fascinating account of how he and Jethro the mule walked from St. Bees in Cumberland to Robin Hood’s Bay in Yorkshire, mostly via old drovers’ roads across the hills. (Penguin, 291pp, hardback, £20) ISBN 9781-8480-94697

Sea buckthorn, one of many plants recommended for improving health (see Wayside Medicine).

All interested in alternative health cures will welcome Wayside Medicine: Forgotten plants and how to use them, a wonderfully colourful and well-presented volume by Julie Bruton-Seal and Matthew Seal. A worthy sequel to Hedgerow Medicine it will also appeal to those who know little or nothing about herbal remedies. (Merlin Unwin, 224pp, hardback, £16.99) ISBN 9781-9107-23357 William Miller is well-known in passenger ship circles and in Maritime Royalty he paints pictorial and verbal portraits of the many Cunard liners named after a queen. He also covers a few other famous Cunard liners. The photos are appealing and the original text is a a delight. Don’t be put off by the American spellings because this book is superb. (Fonthill, 128pp, paperback, £19.99) ISBN 9781-7815-55675

Gary Bunt did not attend art college and yet has developed a unique style which will please many of the Christian faith. In By the Grace of God he portrays various Bible stories, together with many other poignant pictures, each of which is supported by simple compelling deep poetry. Unusual but definitely pleasing. (Unicorn, 124pp, hardback, £25) ISBN 9781-9107-87656 A Spitfire Girl by Mary Ellis, is the author’s story of her time in the wartime ATA (Air Transport Auxiliary), whose female pilots ferried all kinds of aircraft across the country. (Frontline, 210pp, paperback, £8.99) ISBN 9781-4738-95362 Military and social historians will welcome Resolution by David Rutland and Emma Ellis, the story of two grandsons of the 3rd Duke of Rutland, explaining their contrasting fortunes and tragically short lives. David Rutland is the 11th Duke of Rutland and lives at Belvoir Castle, the ancestral home. (Head of Zeus, 480pp, hardback, £30) ISBN 9781-7849-79911

A quirky painting depicting Adam allocating names to all the animals in the Garden of Eden (see By the Grace of God).

Budding chefs will welcome a reprint of Mrs. Beeton’s Guide to Baking, a collection of her best recipes from 1861. See how they compare to today’s dishes! (Amberley, 252pp, hardback, £9.99) ISBN 9781-4456-51064

Charles Manners (left) aged 18, and Robert Manners, aged 14, in his midshipman’s uniform. Both died young (see Resolution).

Lorenz — Breaking Hitler’s Top Secret Code at Bletchley Park is about solving a personal code used by the Fuhrer to communicate with his generals. The author, Jerry Roberts, was one of those responsible and now, after 75 years, you can read how it was done. (History Press, 240pp, hardback, £20) ISBN 9780-7509-78859

A trio of queens! In May 2015, “Queen Victoria” (top), “Queen Mary 2” (centre) and “Queen Elizabeth” met up at Liverpool to celebrate Cunard’s 175th birthday (see Maritime Royalty).

The Tattie Lads by Ian Dear is the previously untold story of the Rescue Tug Service in two world wars, and its battles to save cargoes, ships and lives. Some were a huge success but others ended in tragedy. (Bloomsbury, 212pp, hardback, £25) ISBN 9781-8448-64010

Feeding an army is a major task, with huge administration and supplies needed prior to food reaching the pot. In The Trench Cookbook 1917 we find many recipes from bully beef stew to trench tea but why did the latter taste of vegetables, what were iron rations and why was Maconochie the most despised food at the front? (Amberley, 252pp, hardback, £9.99) ISBN 9781-4456-55499 The Curious Bird Lover’s Handbook by Niall Edworthy contains more than 1,000 facts, figures and fables, a revelation for those interested in our feathered friends who frequent the skies overhead or visit our garden at ground level. (Black Swan, 210pp, paperback, £8.99) ISBN 9781-7841-62719

Why does the toucan have such an enormous beak (see The Curious Bird Lover’s Handbook). THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017

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English Diary

AUTUMN 2017 JIM HELLIER

1

Exhibition: “Giovanni da Rimini: A 14th-century Masterpiece Unveiled”, National Gallery, Trafalgar Square, London WC2N 5DN. Long thought to be part of a diptych, the exquisite “Scenes from the Lives of the Virgin and Other Saints” by Giovanni da Rimini is reunited with “Scenes from the Life of Christ” on loan from Rome. The exhibition also includes ivory plaques and important and innovative works by artists working in the 14th century in Rimini. To 8th October. Tel: 020 7747 2885; www.nationalgallery.org.uk

AUGUST

2

Trail, RHS Garden 19 Sculpture Wisley, Wisley Lane, Wisley,

Woking, Surrey GU23 6QB. More than 80 sculptures, including “Talking Cobblers” (above) by Simon Conelly, will be on display. Staged by the Surrey Sculpture Society, this is one of the largest sculpture trails in the country. To 24th September. Tel: 01483 224234; www.nhs.org.uk/Gardens/Wisley

St. Annes International Kite Festival, St. Annes Pier, South Promenade, Lytham St. Annes, Lancashire FY8 2NG. Skies above the seafront will be awash with colour as kite clubs and enthusiasts demonstrate their kite-flying skills. Attractions include music, children’s events, art fair, refreshments and a funfair. To 3rd. www.stanneskitefestival.co.uk

Cars at Belsay, Belsay Agatha Christie 33 Classic 13 International Hall, Castle and Gardens, Belsay, Festival, Torre Abbey, The King’s near Morpeth, Northumberland NE20 0DX. Wide array of classic cars with models ranging from the 1920s to the 1970s. Tel: 0370 3331181; www.english-heritage.org.uk

Steamings, Bolton 27 August Steam Museum, Mornington

Exhibition: “Picasso: Ceramics from the Attenborough Collection”, York Art Gallery, Exhibition Square, York YO1 7EW. It wasn’t until 1946 at the age of 65 that Picasso dedicated his work exclusively to ceramics. Lord and Lady Attenborough began acquiring his work in 1954 and have created the most important Picasso collection in the UK. Highlights from this collection will feature in the exhibition, surrounded by the work of British artists working in the 20th century. To 5th November. Tel: 01904 687687; www.yorkartgallery.org.uk

Road, off Chorley Old Road, Bolton, Lancashire BL1 4EU. Volunteers have rescued and restored 30 old stationary steam engines — some of the engines that once powered the cotton and woollen mills of Lancashire and Yorkshire. Most will be running in steam on these days only. To 28th. Tel: 01204 846490; www.nmes.org

Boat Show, 15 Southampton Mayflower Park, Town Quay,

Southampton SO15 1AG. Boats of all shapes and sizes as well as the latest products and services. Attractions include a spectacular marina, tall ship visits, children’s entertainments and on-water activities including the chance to try a boat. To 24th. Tel: 0844 7767766.

MIKE HAYWARD

Food Festival, various 38 Ludlow venues, Ludlow, Shropshire.

A mouth-watering selection of events including cookery demonstrations, hands-on workshops, talks, and the famous ale, bread and sausage trails take place in a beautiful setting. To 10th. Tel: 01584 873957.

CHRIS ALLEN

Horse Trials, Burghley 31 Burghley House, Stamford, Lincolnshire

PE9 3JY. World-famous threeday event in a glorious parkland setting. Riders from all over the world compete in dressage, cross country and showjumping. To 3rd September. Tel: 01933 304744.

International Sheepdog Trials, Lodge Park, Aldsworth, near Northleach, Gloucestershire GL54 3PP. For the first time the Cotswolds play host to this famous sheepdog trials. Some 60 handlers and their dogs who have qualified through national trials will be taking part. To 10th. Tel: 01234 352672.

SEPTEMBER Illuminations 31 Blackpool Switch-on, The Promenade,

Image by kind permission of the Estate of Lord and Lady Attenborough and The Leicester Arts and Museums Service. ©SUCCESSION PICASSO/DACS, LONDON 2017

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THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017

Drive, Torquay, Devon TQ2 5JE. A celebration of the life and legacies of Agatha Christie and a platform for new works by guest writers and artists. To 17th. Tel: 01803 293593; www.iacf-uk.org

Blackpool, Lancashire FY1 5BB. The start of weeks of “Artificial Sunshine” as more than a million lightbulbs are turned on. An amazing spectacle that has been delighting visitors since it first began in 1879. To 5th November. Tel: 07898 157221.

STEVE HARRISON

Harrogate Autumn Flower Show, Great Yorkshire Showground, Harrogate, North Yorkshire HG2 8NZ. Inspiration for the gardener with displays by top nurseries, expert demonstrations, trade stands, gardening advice and a magnificent floral pavilion. One of the many highlights is the giant vegetable competition. To 17th. Tel: 01423 546157.

Air Show, 15 Southport Southport, Lancashire. A

popular family event with the chance to see light aircraft land on the beach, BBMF including the Lancaster, free-fall team, wing walkers, Typhoon, Sea Vixen and many other spectacular attractions. Weather permitting there will be an evening performance. To 17th. Further details:www. visitsouthport.com

DAVID MUSCROFT

22

Chatsworth Festival — Art Out Loud, Chatsworth, Bakewell, Derbyshire DE45 1PP. Talks that offer insight into the work, inspirations and ideas of some of the most famous names in the art world. Top designers, artists, curators and writers who will be taking part include Grayson Perry, Yinka Shonibare MBE, Tristram Hunt, Bendor Grosvenor, Phyllida Barlow, Christopher Kane and Erdem Moralioglu. To 24th. Tel: 01246 565300.

TIMELESS IMAGES

Literature 36 Cheltenham Festival, various venues,

Cheltenham, Gloucestershire. Literary legends, politicians, designers, comedians, cooks and stars of stage and screen arrive in Cheltenham for this exciting annual event. To 15th. Tel: 0844 880 8094.

Drive, London Bridge, 24 Sheep London. The freemen of the

City of London exercise their ancient right to drive sheep over London Bridge. This charity event also has a Wool Fair with over 50 stands selling a wide range of woollen goods, jewellery and luxury accessories, as well as food and drink stalls and entertainment. 10am–5pm.

The spectacular “squibbing” finale to the annual Guy Fawkes Carnival at Bridgwater, Somerset. Large fireworks (known as squibs) are attached to a long pole (known as a cosh) and held at arm’s length by more than 150 squibbers who line the high street. They are then simultaneously fired to provide a dazzling pyrotechnic display. “Rembrandt: 21 Exhibition: Lightening the Darkness”,

Norwich Castle Museum & Art Gallery, Castle Meadow, Norwich, Norfolk NR1 3 JU. Focuses on Rembrandt’s fascination with print-making with a display of his etchings, complemented by a selection of paintings and drawings, which demonstrate how physical and metaphorical light and darkness meet and combine in Rembrandt’s work. To 7th January 2018. Tel: 01603 493649.

Harold Day, various 37 King venues, Waltham Abbey,

Essex. A medieval festival to commemorate the last Saxon king, Harold II. This annual event is held on the nearest Saturday to 14th October, the day Harold died at the Battle of Hastings in 1066. His wife reputedly brought his body back to be buried at Waltham. For details of events visit: kingharoldday.co.uk

OCTOBER of the Year Show, 34 Horse NEC, Birmingham B40 1NT.

Famous equestrian event featuring world-class showing and showjumping events and an impressive line-up of entertainment. Attractions include Atkinson Action Horses stunt riding and liberty work, guest speakers, Pony Club Mounted Games and the famous Puissance. To 8th. Tel: 0844 581 8282.

14

Lincolnshire Sausage Festival, Castle Hill, Lincoln LN1 3AA. The Lincolnshire sausage has a proud heritage and is made using strictly defined ingredients. Enjoy cookery demonstrations, food stalls, children’s entertainment, live music and of course plenty of sausages at this event. 10am–5pm. Tel: 01522 782040.

Head Marathon, Bedes 28 Beachy School, Dukes Drive, Eastbourne, East Sussex BN20 7XL. Scenic and challenging marathon route through the glorious countryside of the South Downs National Park in aid of charity. Starts 9am. A 10k-run will take place after the marathon. www.beachyheadmarathon.co.uk

NOVEMBER Fawkes Carnival, 34 Guy Bridgwater, Somerset TA6 3AR.

©NORFOLK MUSEUM SERVICES

26

Museums at Night, various venues, nationwide. Museums and galleries across the country open their doors after hours with late-night exhibitions, Halloween-themed events, workshops and guided tours. The opportunity to enjoy culture and history in a whole new light. To 28th. www.museumsatnight.org.uk

The oldest event of its kind in the UK and featuring the unique “squibbing”. Starts 10am. Further details: www.bridgwatercarnival.org.uk

Day Service 38 Remembrance and Parade, The Cenotaph,

Whitehall, London SW1A 2DY. The focus of the nation’s commemoration of those who fought and died in war; the Royal Family lead the wreath laying.

11 Armistice Day THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017

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ANNOUNCEMENTS AND NOTICES

Announcements & Notices

To advertise or for more information call: Bryn Piper on 020 7400 1050 or e-mail [email protected] This England Advertisements, 185 Fleet Street, London, EC4A 2HS, England.

Lineage rates: £1.25 per word, £1.00 for Back Issues; Box Ads Rate: £30 per single column centimetre (prices excluding VAT) Copy date for Winter 2017: 29th September 2017.

Back Issues All issues of This England (except 5) from Summer 1998 to present, for reimbursement of advertising and US shipping costs. Email: [email protected] or Tel: 662-842-5581. Complete set 1970-1975 in binders. Complete sets 1990, 2001, 2004-14. 12 odd issues 1992 onwards. Buyer collect. £45.00. Tel: 0208 650 3873. This England 1960s-2010s, 104 total. Buyer collect £120. Tel: 01582 728 663. This England Back Issues for sale — from single copies to complete sets. All enquiries welcomed. Tel: 01522 702425. E-mail: [email protected] This England Spring 1978 to Winter 2016, except Autumn 1978 and Summer 1989. £100. Buyer to collect. Tel: 024 7639 4027.

Devon/Somerset borders family farm Professional research carried out to the highest standards. Competitive prices — free assessments. Send for your FREE brochure:

Debrett Ancestry Research Ltd (TE), PO Box 379, Winchester

SO23 9YQ. Tel: 01962 841904.

www.debrettancestry.co.uk

Books/Literary Book binding, restoration, conservation and custom made binding. Private collections to unique wedding gifts. Cummins Farm, Stockland, Honiton, Devon, EX14 9EZ. Tel: 07876063997. Email: [email protected] Website: www.newmanbookbinding.co.uk ‘Forever England’, Rupert Brooke’s poem The Soldier set to beautiful photographs of Devon. £3.99 plus p&p. UK 75p, Europe £2.45, U.S.A./Canada £3.30, AUS/NZ £3.30. Send cheque to S. Lethbridge, Elgin, Weirfields, Totnes, Devon, England TQ9 5JS. Independent book publishers helping writers into print for 50 years. Details: Email: [email protected] or UWP Ltd, Ailsa, Castle Gate, Penzance, TR20 8BG.

Crafts & Gifts Parades may be over but remembrance is important. Complete medal mounting service, accessories, miniatures, etc. Ex-serviceman who knows his business. Home Counties Medal Services, 53 Bodiam Crescent, Hampden Park, Eastbourne, BN22 9HQ. Tel: 01323 506012.

Holidays/Accommodation Cotswolds, near Chipping Norton. Country cottage, sleeps 6. Fully equipped. Gardens, parking. Stratford, Bourton on the Water, Oxford close by. Tel: 01608 674288. E-mail: [email protected] Ferring, Worthing on beach. Luxurious Bungalow. Sleeps 2/6. Dogs love it! Prices for two from £575 low season. Tel: 077703 90677 or E-mail: [email protected] Ledbury (Herefordshire) — 5 charming self-catering cottages sleeping 2-5. Tranquil countryside setting ideal for walking, touring, relaxing. Free WiFi and parking. Tel: 01531 670349. Website: www.whitehousecottages.co.uk

Genealogy Ancestors can trace your family history world-wide more economically and efficiently. Consult the best for a “total peace of mind” money back guarantee. For a free estimate and brochure write to: Ancestors Professional Genealogy Service, 11 Crosbie Road, Harborne, Birmingham B17 9BG. Tel: 0121 2464260. E-mail: [email protected] Your Ancestors Found: Retired school inspector, Cambridge history graduate, genealogist for 40 years, researches and writes your family’s history. No task too big or small. Phone 01730 812232 for brochure, sample report and free estimate.

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THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017

Louth, Lincolnshire — 2 s/c cott., sleeps up to 7. Well behaved pets welcome. £275 p/w 2-4 sharing (other tariffs available) Now taking bookings for 2017. Tel: 01507 606772 Website: www.railwaycottages.org Morpeth (Northumberland) — Two peaceful, spacious and comfortable country cottages. Sleep 4 & 6. Sorry, no pets. Brochure Tel: 01661 881241. Website: www.gallowhillcottages.co.uk Sidmouth, self-catering, twin bedroom, 1st floor holiday flat. 5 min walk town and seafront. Tel: 01784 454805 Email: [email protected] Suffolk. Coast 3 miles. 2 cottages each sleeps 2 adults. En-Suite B&B also available. Tel: 01728 648377. Website: www.suffolk-selfcatering.co.uk

Peaceful scenic location for touring Exmoor, coasts and historic houses. Renowned for friendliness, comfort and delicious food. ETB 

B&B £32 per night. Dinner optional

Tel: Ann Heard 01398 361 296. Website: lowerwestcottfarm.co.uk

SUSSEX — Peacehaven Ground floor flat, private entrance, parking, sleeps two. Cliff walks 200 yards. Frequent buses to Brighton and Eastbourne. Ideally situated for exploring surrounding countryside.

VISIT ENGLAND: “Quality in Tourism” Grade 4 awarded

Tel:

01273 587365

E-mail: [email protected]

WELSH BORDER Hideaway on our quiet farm. Two delightful properties sleeping 7 & 14, plus cots. Groundfloor wheelchair user friendly & hearing-loops in large house. Indoor swimming-pool. Games room.

Tel:

01544 260237 Website:

www.hicksfarmholidays.co.uk

Devon

(Close to Dartmoor) A perfect 16th century village cottage in the heart of the most beautiful unspoilt countryside. 2 double bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, c/heating. Beautifully decorated and wonderfully comfortable — close to many RHS gardens

Do send for a brochure

Tel: 01837 810466 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.hopetwocottage.co.uk

ANNOUNCEMENTS AND NOTICES

THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017

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ANNOUNCEMENTS AND NOTICES

Wanted Boy scout & girl guide badges & memorabilia wanted by collector. Peter Maryniak, 27 Stowe Walk, Northampton NN3 6EE. Tel: 01604452156. Email: [email protected]

Whitbread Miniature Inn signs wanted by collector. Metal or card, also black and white business cards. Also, East & West Kent metal maps. Tel: Colin 07788 524 400.

Collector/Carpenter — Woodworking hand tools. Tel: 01780 751768. B. Jackson, 10 Ayr Close, Stamford, Lincs. PE9 2TS. Old clocks and watches parts, tools, anything. Also coins. Tel: 01933 624296. Postcards pre 1950 small or large collections required by a keen collector. Jenkins, Flat 4, The Beehives, 1 Jumpers Road, Christchurch, BH23 2JR. Stamp Collections and postcards wanted by keen collector. Pre 1950. Tel: 01684 773173 or write to, Ian Aspey ‘Fieldcroft’ Aston Field Lane, Nr. Aston on Carrant, Tewkesbury, Gloucestershire, GL20 8HJ. Wanted old radio valves and audio valves. Any amount. Buyer will collect or pay postage. please phone Alan on 02392 251062.

GOD SHALL SEND JESUS CHRIST (Acts 3 v 20)

There was the first coming of Jesus Christ to the Earth as a mortal man born of his mother Mary. This meant he was under the sentence of death, as all mankind, due to the sin which is naturally in all. His life though, was an overcoming of sin in himself, which in turn meant his death provided the one sacrifice whereby the sin of the world shall be taken away. He attained to salvation (deliverance from death) as a result of his perfect sacrifice and righteous life being accepted by God. This also made the Hope of Salvation possible for others, even those who will heed the call of God and serve Him in truth. Jesus will return to the Earth at the time appointed by God, both to bring salvation and to establish the Kingdom of God upon this Earth. Bible signs relating to the conditions now existing on Earth indicate his return is near. We invite you to send for the following free pamphlets based on Bible testimony:The Near Return of Jesus Christ, What of the Future?, Israel a Sign to this Generation, A Statement of the Faith.

To advertise in these pages please call

0207 400 1050

To:- The Local Secretary, The Ecclesia of Christ, 149 Browns Lane, Stanton-on-the-Wolds, Keyworth, Nottm NG12 5BN

The Ensign Trust, Newton Institute, Long’s Court, London WC2H 7EL Email - [email protected]

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ANNOUNCEMENTS AND NOTICES

THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017

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ANNOUNCEMENTS AND NOTICES

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THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017

This England Gifts

A selection of gifts from This England and Evergreen

Gifts

Autumn 2017

Victoria Cross Heroes of WORLD WAR ONE Victoria Cross Heroes of World War One is the definitive illustrated history of those who were awarded Britain’s highest military accolade for valour during the Great War. This stunning book tells the inspiring, moving and humbling stories of all 627 Victoria Cross recipients, and is a heart-rending tribute to the loyalty, bravery and selflessness of these British and Commonwealth heroes.

Robert Hamilton’s individual biographies and introductions masterfully portray the experience of those who fought in the Great War. 2,000 stunning, rare and previously unseen photographs vividly portray each VC recipient and the bleak conditions they fought and lived in. Meticulously researched, entries range from brief sketches to detailed accounts and include contemporary reports, newspaper cuttings, and detailed maps. (384pp, hardback)

‘This book would make an ideal gift to someone with an interest in the Great War. It is attractive, entertaining and substantial.’ — WAR HISTORY ONLINE Code: LVICR

RRP £40, This England readers pay just £25 incl. p&p.

UK delivery only

PHONE: 0800 074 0188 (FREE from UK landlines) Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat 9am-5pm. Overseas: +44 1382 575052

ONLINE: www.thisengland.co.uk THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017

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This England Gifts Collector’s Item!

50 Years of Machin stamps “After months of extremely hard work by Mr Arnold Machin and the printers…. a design was evolved which in my opinion will be one of the classics of stamp history.” — EDWARD SHORT, POSTMASTER GENERAL, 1967

This fantastic cover celebrates the 50th anniversary of the Machin stamp design and features a Golden Anniversary miniature sheet detailing the development of the Machin stamps over the years to the present day, cancelled with a London SW1 postmark. Code: MRMAC Just £20.95 to UK, overseas £22.95. US $46; Can $48; Aus $51; NZ $59.

COMMEMORATIVE COINS These finely crafted collectors’ coins offer a timely reminder of British servicemen and women who served in the British Army, Air Force and Royal Navy, having experienced conflict around the world. Each coin has the relevant logo and inscription ‘Lest We Forget’ on the front. Each coin

Diameter: 1½"

comes in a presentation box.

British Army Coin

Code: BACO

Wording on the back: Remembering all of our British Army personnel who have served in previous conflicts.

Royal Air Force Coin

Code: RAFC

Wording on the back: Remembering all of our Royal Air Force personnel who have served in previous conflicts.

Royal Navy Coin

Code: RNCO

Wording on the back: Remembering all of our Royal Navy personnel who have served in previous conflicts.

Just £12.99 EACH to UK, overseas £16.99. US $34; Can $36; Aus $38; NZ $43.

PHONE: 0800 074 0188 (FREE from UK landlines) Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat 9am-5pm. Overseas: +44 1382 575052

ONLINE: www.thisengland.co.uk 84

THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017

This England Gifts

This England Gifts Bookshop

Just

£35

UK delivery only

Just

£30

UK delivery only

Very Heath Robinson

The Railway Experience

(238pp, hardback)

(112pp, hardback)

See the review on page 72. Code: 74107

See the review on page 72. Code: LRAEX

Just £30 to UK ONLY

Just £9.99 to UK, overseas £12.99. US $26; Can $28; Aus $29; NZ $33.

In a Manner of Speaking See the review on page 73. (256pp, paperback) Code: LMASP

Just £14.99 to UK, overseas £18.99. US $38; Can $40; Aus $42; NZ $49.

England’s Maritime Heritage From The Air See the review on page 73. (296pp, hardback) Code: LMARH

Just £35 to UK ONLY

Major & Mrs Holt’s Battlefield Guide to Ypres Salient & Passchendaele See the article on pages 64-66. (272pp, paperback) Code: LYPAS

Just £16.99 to UK, overseas £20.99. US $42; Can $44; Aus $47; NZ $54.

Who Do The English Think They Are?

A nation’s character is moulded by its history. And in Who Do the English Think They Are? historian and journalist, Derek J. Taylor travels the length and breadth of the country to find answers. He discovers that the first English came from Germany, and then in the later Middle Ages almost became French. He tracks down the origins of English respect for the rule of law, tolerance and a love of political stability. And, when he reaches Victorian times, he investigates the arrogance and snobbishness that sometimes blighted English behaviour. Finally, Taylor looks ahead and tries to answer the question: what is it in the national character that will help guide the English people in future? (320pp, hardback) Pre-order now for delivery in September Code: LENGT

Just £12.99 to UK, overseas £17.99. US $36; Can $38; Aus $40; NZ $46.

Pass it On, Household Tips From The 1950s

This book is full of everlasting wisdom and homely nostalgia. How do you get furniture dents out of a carpet? Or beetroot stains out of a table cloth? How do you dust behind an immovable wardrobe? This is the biggest and best collection of tips for living that has ever been published. Buy it for anyone who grew up in the 1950s or ’60s and watch as they remember the troubles that had to be faced and the remedies that were found. This book is a piece of social history, an amazing record of life experiences that will reconnect you with the good old days. (238pp, paperback) Code: SPASS

Just £11.99 to UK, overseas £15.99. US $32; Can $34; Aus $36; NZ $41.

POST: This England Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 814, Haywards Heath, Sussex RH16 9LQ. See order form on page 97 THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017

85

This England Gifts

GLORIOUS DESIGNER ALLIUMS Autumn is just around the corner which means it’s time to plant your spring bulbs for a beautiful floral display next year. Alliums are still top of any garden designer’s list, so why not join the experts and add them to your own garden! The unusual and often striking flower heads complement the modern cottage garden perfectly, ideal for adding a touch of elegance to any display in May/June each year. Alliums left undisturbed in well-drained soil will naturalise and give years of pleasure. Our exciting varieties provide a combination of sizes and colours, ideal for growing in pots, containers or within a creative border display.

A. 20 Allium Aflatunense £9.99 Vibrant lilac purple blooms on 23"-32" stems. Flowers May/June. Code: AL100

B. 20 Allium Violet Beauty £9.99 Violet-blue flowers in May-June. Height up to 30". Code: AL101

3½"/4½" circumference bulbs supplied. Delivery within 28 days.

SPECIAL OFFER:

C. 20 Allium Christophii £9.99 Gigantic silver-lilac flowers, 10"-12" in diameter on a stocky 12" stem in May and June. Code: AL102

Just

£9.99

EACH UK delivery only

BUY 100 BULBS FOR HALF PRICE!

100 Half Price Collection Code: AL105 — Buy all five packs, 100 Allium bulbs in total, for

just £24.97 HALF PRICE

Offer ends 30.09.2017. Mainland UK delivery only.

D. 20 Allium Multibulbosum Nigrum £9.99 Large white ball like flowers on 23"-35" stems. Flower May/June. Code: AL103

E. 20 Allium Purple Sensation £9.99 Violet purple flower balls on 20"-24" stems in May-June Code: AL104

POST: This England Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 814, Haywards Heath, Sussex RH16 9LQ. See order form on page 97 86

THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017

This England Gifts

DWARF ROCKERY NARCISSI

Just

We have brought together six varieties of dwarf rockery Narcissi to give your spring display a boost of colour. Reaching 7½" -14" in height these varieties tend to flower for much longer than the traditional varieties of daffodils. Delivery within 28 days.

Top quality bulbs supplied.

A. 25 Narcissi Canaliculatus £6.65

B. 25 Narcissi Jetfire £6.65

C. 25 Narcissi Pueblo £6.65

Code: DF001

Code: DF002

Code: DF003

D. 25 Narcissi Sundisc £6.65

E. 25 Narcissi Tete-a-Tete £6.65

F. 25 Narcissi Minnow £6.65

Code: DF004

Code: DF005

Rosemary Pettigrew says...

All varieties naturalise to produce an increasing annual show. They are ideal for borders, rockeries and will look exquisite in patio containers.

£6.65

EACH UK delivery only

Code: DF006

SPECIAL OFFER: BUY 150 BULBS FOR £19.95 — HALF PRICE! Code: DF007 150 Half Price Dwarf Narcissi Collection £19.97 — 25 each of the above six varieties. Offer ends 30.09.2017.

Mainland UK delivery only.

PHONE: 0800 074 0188 (FREE from UK landlines) Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat 9am-5pm. Overseas: +44 1382 575052

ONLINE: www.thisengland.co.uk THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017

87

This England Gifts

Enjoy England Throughout the Year

C

elebrate the scenic splendour of our green and pleasant land with This England’s Country Calendar 2018. A selection of 15 superb photographs takes you on a marvellous journey across the English counties from Shropshire to Suffolk and Northumberland to Cornwall. The wonderful views capture the breathtaking beauty of the English countryside amid all the seasons.

The River Windrush wends its way towards the Cotswold town of Burford in Oxfordshire.

“The quality of the photography and the overall production is in keeping with the standard set by both This England and Evergreen.”— A.G. ROWLANDS, COWES, VICTORIA, AUSTRALIA.

Each monthly section includes verses of poetry, and details of important events — saints’ days, anniversaries, bank holidays etc. There is space beside each day for you to jot down your own appointments. This England’s Country Calendar 2018 is the perfect gift to send to anyone who cherishes England, and one that will continue to give pleasure throughout the year. Actual size when open: 17 " x 11"

Looking across the Lancashire countryside towards Sawley.

Snowdrops surround St. Michael’s Church at Upton Cressett in Shropshire.

The Somerset village of Winsford at the heart of Exmoor.

Punting along the River Cam, a tranquil way to explore Cambridge.

PHONE: 0800 074 0188 (FREE from UK landlines) Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat 9am-5pm. Overseas: +44 1382 575052

ONLINE: www.thisengland.co.uk 88

THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017

This England Gifts “Thank you for your beautiful This England Country Calendar. We love that calendar.” — MRS. B. EVANS, BISHOP’S WALTHAM, HAMPSHIRE.

Paddle steamer Kingswear Castle on the River Dart near Dartmouth, Devon.

The attractive village green at Finchingfield in Essex.

A golden harvest scene near Sheringham in Norfolk.

In the small Suffolk market town of Sudbury, cattle graze contentedly.

Sunlight falls across burnish-leafed boughs in the Wyre Forest, Worcestershire.

Soft white clouds fill the blue skies above the spectacular Bamburgh Castle in Northumberland.

Winter casts its snowy blanket across the village of Thwaite in Upper Swaledale, Yorkshire.

At Bude in Cornwall, a pastel pink cottage beside Summerleaze Beach has the perfect ocean view.

Charming thatched cottages and the Church of All Saints in the village of Godshill in the Isle of Wight.

Please order early to avoid disappointment

Available only from the publishers. Not on sale in shops! 1 copy: Code: TSD18

Just £5.95 to UK overseas £7.45. US $15; Can $16; Aus $17; NZ $19.

3 copies to one address: Code: TSD83 Just £14 to UK overseas £18.50. US $37; Can $39; Aus $41; NZ $47. 6 copies to one address: Code: TSD86 Just £25 to UK overseas £36. US $72; Can $76; Aus $80; NZ $92. 10 copies to one address: Code: TSD8T Just £38 to UK overseas £52. US $103; Can $109; Aus $115; NZ $132.

Narrow boats on the Staffordshire and Worcestershire Canal at Kinver in Staffordshire.

POST: This England Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 814, Haywards Heath, Sussex RH16 9LQ. See order form on page 97 THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017

89

This England Gifts This England Desk Diary 2018 The Perfect Companion! Featuring more than 50 superb photographs representing every English traditional county, it means that you can look forward to a different view for every week of the year. Handsomely presented, with a week-to-view, there’s plenty of space to fill in all those important dates and appointments, with a colourful ribbon marker making it ideal for the home or office. Measuring 63⁄4" x 81⁄4" Hardback, 114 pages

SPECIAL OFFER

COUNTRY CALENDAR AND DESK DIARY 2018 Code: TCD18

Save nearly 1 Desk Diary: Code: DIT18 Just £10.45 to UK overseas £14.45. US $29; Can $31; Aus $32; NZ $37.

2 Desk Diaries to one address: Code: DIT82 Just £17.50 to UK overseas £24. US $48; Can $51; Aus $53; NZ $61.

£3!

Just £13.50 to UK overseas £17.50. US $35; Can $37; Aus $39; NZ $45.

Evergreen Pocket Diary 2018 This smart Evergreen pocket diary is perfect for keeping up-to-date with appointments, birthdays and holidays. With its distinctive green cover, gilt foil lettering, and measuring 6" x 3¼", it fits neatly into a pocket or handbag. Contains a comprehensive diary section (two weeks to view with Sunday start), a detailed calendar and maps covering motorways and rail networks. A special section compiled by the Evergreen editorial team includes pages of household hints, wedding anniversaries, mnemonics and words of wit and wisdom. 1 Evergreen Diary: Code: VPD18 Just £5.50 to UK, overseas £7.25. US $15; Can $16; Aus $16; NZ $19. 2 Evergreen Diaries to one address: Code: VD182 Just £9 to UK, overseas £11.75. US $24; Can $25; Aus $26; NZ $30. 3 Evergreen Diaries to one address: Code: VD183 Just £12.50 to UK, overseas £15.50. US $31; Can $33; Aus $35; NZ $40.

POST: This England Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 814, Haywards Heath, Sussex RH16 9LQ. See order form on page 97 90

THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017

This England Gifts

This England’s Annual 2018 P

roduced by the same editorial team responsible for each quarterly issue of This England, and packed with stunning colour photographs and poems and articles on a wide range of subjects, our new Annual promises to be more popular than ever before. As well as providing regular readers of the magazine with a much-anticipated “fifth issue”, This England’s Annual is also top of many people’s lists when deciding what to give a friend or relative as a greatvalue, easy-to-purchase gift. From articles about English places and notable people to features about English customs, history and colourful characters, there is something for everyone. And not only that: every item in the 2018 Annual is published for the first time, and because the articles are refreshingly unconcerned with the problems and controversies of today, they never go out of date and can be enjoyed again and again.

Just

£6.99 to UK

Softback, 100 pages.

HIGHLIGHTS INCLUDE:

SHIPPING FORECAST: “Viking, Forties, Cromarty, Forth, Tyne, Dogger, Fisher, German Bight…” We tell the story behind this •THE much-loved English institution. KIPLING: His poem “If” was recently voted the nation’s favourite. We look at the life and work of one of England’s •RUDYARD greatest writers. OR FICTION?: He has been immortalised in pantomime and is always depicted with a cat. But who was Dick Whittington? •FACT A MOST PARK: Dinosaurs lurk in the undergrowth, stone sphinxes guard a flight of steps that leads…nowhere. A site in •London stillPECULIAR evokes the lost glories of the Crystal Palace. LANGUAGE OF FLOWERS: Red roses for love, snowdrops for hope, marigolds for despair… for the Victorians, the blooms •THE they gave or received were laden with meaning. ENGLAND’S INNS: From Black Horse and Red Lion to Royal Oak and Cross Keys, the names of our pubs tell tales of •EXPLORING history, legend and local industry. One copy: Code: TEA18

There is also a quiz, pages of jokes to make you chuckle, glorious colour photographs depicting England throughout the year, a series of pictures portraying “Old London”, and much, much more. Publication date is early October, but to avoid disappointment you can pre-order now.

Just £6.99 to UK, overseas £9.25. US $19; Can $20; Aus $21; NZ $24.

SPECIAL OFFERS: Two Annuals to one address: Code: TEA82

Just £12 to UK, overseas £16. US $32; Can $34; Aus $36; NZ $41.

Annual, Country Calendar and Desk Diary: Code: TCK18 Just £17.95 to UK, overseas £23.95. US $48; Can $51; Aus $53; NZ $61.

Save over

£5!

PHONE: 0800 074 0188 (FREE from UK landlines) Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat 9am-5pm. Overseas: +44 1382 575052

ONLINE: www.thisengland.co.uk THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017

91

This England Gifts

Hand-tinted Those Were The Days...Calendar 2018

SPECIAL OFFER

Pure nostalgia!

Revisit yesteryear with a wonderful selection of 14 highly evocative hand-tinted photographs capturing the essence of England. 1 Those Were the Days Calendar: Code: CAL18

2 Those Were the Days Calendars: Code: CL182

Just £5.95 to UK, overseas £7.45. US $15; Can $16; Aus $17; NZ $19.

Just £10 to UK, overseas £13. US $26; Can $28; Aus $29; NZ $33.

England Then and Now THOSE WERE THE DAYS... CALENDAR 2018 AND THIS ENGLAND COUNTRY CALENDAR 2018 Code: TTC18

Just £10 to UK, overseas £13. US $26; Can $28; Aus $29; NZ $33.

New Format

This England Christmas Cards We have changed the format for our Christmas cards this year, they are a larger size and glossy! Each pack contains 12 cards (4 designs, 3 cards of each) with envelopes and comes with the simple message: “With all good wishes for Christmas and the New Year”.

Size 7" x 5". One pack: Code: MTC17

Just £10 to UK, overseas £12. US $24; Can $26; Aus $27; NZ $31.

Two packs:

Code: MTC72

Just £16 to UK, overseas £21. US $42; Can $44; Aus $47; NZ $54.

Colin Carr Christmas Cards available from This England Gifts brochure and on our website: www.thisengland.co.uk.

PHONE: 0800 074 0188 (FREE from UK landlines) Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat 9am-5pm. Overseas: +44 1382 575052

ONLINE: www.thisengland.co.uk 92

THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017

This England Gifts

EXPLORE ENGLAND 2017 I

f you love England, the English countryside, English history and English customs and traditions, you will not want to be without the latest edition of Explore England. Although packed with ideas for places to visit and perfect for helping you plan some memorable days out, the 100-page collection of fascinating articles (published for the first time) and beautiful colour photographs can be enjoyed just as much from the comfort of your armchair. And such is the wide variety of subjects covered, all carefully planned and put together by the same editorial team that produces This England and Evergreen, we are confident that Explore England will continue to be of interest far beyond 2017.

HIGHLIGHTS INCLUDE:

THE HARDY WAY: A leisurely ramble along the long•WALKING distance path, visiting many of the places associated with the great

Wessex novelist and poet, with stunning photographs of the glorious Dorset countryside.

Just

UNUSUAL MUSEUMS: A look at some of England’s •MOST quirkiest museums, where everything from pencils and packaging to lawnmowers and clay pipes are celebrated. TO THE SEASIDE: We hop aboard a steam train on •BYthe TRAIN West Somerset Railway and travel back in time to a more leisurely age. WRECKERS AND PIECES OF EIGHT: Steeped in •SMUGGLERS, maritime history, along the coast of Cornwall every cove and creek

£6.99 to UK

Softback, 100 pages.

has an exciting story to tell.

MANY FACES OF SOUTHWOLD: Colourful beach huts, an imposing lighthouse and a curious character called •THE Southwold Jack are encountered during a visit to the Suffolk resort. FURTHEST FRONTIER: Following in the footsteps of the Romans we tramp along Hadrian’s Wall, hearing many •ENGLAND’S entertaining stories along the way.

One copy: Code: TXP17 Just £6.99 to UK, overseas £9.25. US $19; Can $20; Aus $21; NZ $24.

SPECIAL OFFERS: Two Explore Englands to one address:

Code: TX172

Just £12 to UK, overseas £16. US $32; Can $34; Aus $36; NZ $41.

A Celebration Of The Traditional Counties of England & Explore England 2017 Pack: Code: EETCB Just £11 to UK, overseas £15. US $30; Can $32; Aus $33; NZ $38.

As in previous years there is a useful regionby-region section providing information about places to go in each county, a useful diary of events throughout the year and numerous other illustrated features covering castles, stately homes, gardens and the men and women who left their mark on England and the English way of life.

POST: This England Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 814, Haywards Heath, Sussex RH16 9LQ. See order form on page 97 THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017

93

This England Gifts THE WAY WE WERE…DVDs The Way We Were At War DVD Archive film and newsreels present a unique insight into life in Britain during the Second World War. The topics covered include the evacuation of children; the steps we took to protect ourselves; food rationing; training of the Home Guard; a day at school in wartime; and the VE Day celebrations with some extremely rare colour film of a street party. Code: DWWAR

The Way We Were At Work DVD

A fascinating look back at different aspects of working lives in times gone by. See harvest time in Essex in the 1930s, women at work in WW2, the job of a British Bobby in the 1940s, life on a working narrow boat in the 1950s, a day in the life of a Staffordshire miner, behind the scenes at Covent Garden Market in the 1960s and the role of a Yeoman Warder at the Tower of London in the 1960s. Code: DWWRK

The Way We Were At the Seaside DVD A nostalgic look back at the good old British seaside holiday, from the early 20th century, when bathing machines were still required to preserve modesty, to the carefree, bucket and spade, Punch and Judy, donkey-ride days of the 1950s. Code: DWSEA

Just £14.45 EACH to UK, overseas £16.95. US $33; Can $35; Aus $37; NZ $42.

SPECIAL OFFER: Buy all three and save THE WAY WE WERE DVD PACK Code: DWW3W

Just £35 to UK, overseas £38. US $76; Can $80; Aus $84; NZ $97.

All DVDs are region 0 — all regions. Running time approximately 55 minutes each.

BRANCH LINES OF CORNWALL DVD

NATIONAL TRUST PROPERTIES

This film explores the old routes of the Great Western Railway and London and South Western Railway, beginning at Gunnislake in the Tamar Valley, and then travelling around the entire county. We visit the striking landscape in the area of Minions, where the Liskeard & Caradon Railway once ran, and see other long closed lines, such as the North Cornwall Railway. Happily, some of the old branch lines are still in service today such as the attractive Tamar Valley Line, the Atlantic Coast Line from Par to Newquay, the enchanting Looe Valley Line, the Maritime Line from Truro to Falmouth and the St. Ives Bay Line, which is among the most scenic in Britain. All of these are featured with superb modern film, comparisons with historic photographs and informed commentary.

Take a private guided tour of some of the National Trust’s most stunning buildings

Running time: approx. 100 mins. Code: DCORP

PAL DVD (for UK/Europe/Australia/New Zealand)

Code: DCOR1

Region 1 DVD (for USA and Canada only)

Just £15.95 to UK, overseas £17.95. US $36; Can $38; Aus $40; NZ $46.

•Calke Abbey

— an 18th-century mansion preserved in the state of genteel decay in which it was received by the Trust. Code: DNT1

•Hardwick Hall

— the most famous survivor of the ‘Prodigy Houses’ of the 16th century. Code: DNT2

•Bateman’s

— a former Sussex ironmaster’s house that became the home of Rudyard Kipling. Code: DNT3

All DVDs are region 0 — all regions. Running time approximately 60 minutes each. Just £12.95 EACH to UK, overseas £14.95. US $30; Can $32; Aus $33; NZ $38.

POST: This England Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 814, Haywards Heath, Sussex RH16 9LQ. See order form on page 97 94

THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017

This England Gifts AGES OF STEAM DVDs

Take a journey through the five ages of steam trains in Britain

• • • • •

THE GOLDEN AGE — from the early works of the Victorian engineers to the first decade of the 20th century, when locomotive size would double and the railways would reach their zenith. Code: DSTE1 THE JAZZ AGE — covers the locomotives of the 1920s, when the railways of Britain formed four large companies — the “Big 4”. Code: DSTE2 THE STREAMLINE AGE — examines the impact of the financial crisis of the 1930s on Britain’s railways and the urgent need for fleet renewal. Code: DSTE3 THE AUSTERITY AGE — we look at the companies which chased simpler and cheaper designs, as well as the most complicated and expensive steam locomotives produced by Oliver Bulleid. Code: DSTE4 THE STANDARD AGE — lack of investment in electric or diesel technology in the nationalised railway system meant steam continued with the Standard locomotives that soon were worn out and run down. Code: DSTE5

All DVDs are region 0 — all regions. Running time approximately 50 minutes each. Just £12.95 EACH to UK, overseas £14.95. US $30; Can $32; Aus $33; NZ $38.

GRACIE FIELDS: GOLD — 100 Songs (5-CD Set)

An ultimate collection showcasing why Gracie Fields is hailed as one of the greatest stars from both cinema and music hall. It includes 100 of the greatest songs from across her career as well as in-depth sleeve notes covering her lifetime in music. Listen again to Sally, Walter Walter, Wish Me Luck, The Biggest Aspidistra In The World and many more. Code: CGRAC

MANTOVANI: The Complete Collection (5-CD Set)

100-track anthology from the legendary Mantovani and his orchestras boasting some of the finest musicians in Britain. Featuring The Moulin Rouge Theme, Moon River, La Vie En Rose, Charmaine, Arrivederci Roma, Fly Me To The Moon and many more. Code: CMONT

SPECIAL OFFER: Buy all five DVDs in a box set and save 34.80! Code: DSTEP

Just £29.95 to UK, overseas £34.95. US $76; Can $80; Aus $84; NZ $97.

THOSE WERE THE DAYS: 100 Musical Wartime Memories “Those Were The Days” simply features all the songs which won the war! All the classics are here, including We’ll Meet Again, Lambeth Walk, Chattanooga Choo Choo, Don’t Sit Under The Apple Tree and Boogie Woogie Bugle Boy. Sing along with legends like Bing Crosby, Vera Lynn & The Andrew Sisters. You’ll be transported back to a historic period in time with 100 musical memories from the wartime era, as you reminisce on this nostalgic journey. Code: CWAME EACH SET just £20 to UK, overseas £23.50. US $47; Can $50; Aus $52; NZ $60.

PHONE: 0800 074 0188 (FREE from UK landlines) Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat 9am-5pm. Overseas: +44 1382 575052

ONLINE: www.thisengland.co.uk THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017

95

This England Gifts

Yesterda s Music y’ A collection of CDs all exclusive to This England

Dolly Mixtures There has never been anything like this before — 28 unique orchestral tunes and songs associated with the word “dolly” which can be a children’s toy or a girl’s name. You are sure to recognise many of the tunes, even if you never knew the title in the first place! Track listing: The Wedding of the Painted Doll; Dance Hall Doll; The Fairy Doll; Dance with a Dolly; Dance of the Tea Dolls; China Doll; Doll Dance; Paper Doll; Dance of the Paper Dolls; Hello Dolly; Tea Dolls Parade; Broken Doll; Banjo Doll’s Parade; Dancing Dolls; Little Dolly Daydream; Oh, You Beautiful Doll; You Gorgeous Dancing Doll; The Doll and the Showman; Baby Doll; Rag Doll; My Wubba Dolly; Doll’s House suite (Sleeping Doll, Miniature Piano, Blue Boudoir, Clockwork Two-Seater); Goodbye Dolly Gray; Berceuse (Lullaby from the Dolly Suite); La Jardin de Dolly (The Garden of Dolly from the Dolly Suite); Kitty Valse (Kitty Waltz from the Dolly Suite) Le Pas Espagnol (The Spanish Step from the Dolly Suite); The Wedding of the Painted Doll. Code: C168

Sing Something Simple

In the longest continuous running music show ever, the Cliff Adams Singers serenaded us for 42 years, firstly on the BBC Light Programme and later on Radio 2. A group of ten men and four women, to the accompaniment of Jack Emblow and his Accordion Quartet plus Adams at the piano, they gently harmonised favourite songs, old and new. Medleys were their speciality and the public couldn’t get enough of it. Now is your chance to hear them all over again. Code: C160

Comedian Harmonists

This brilliant close-harmony group were the forerunners of the Hi-Los, Kings Singers and many others. Their time at the top, however, was relatively brief because the Nazis broke them up. The group had already conquered Europe and North America but, happily, their superb songs remain for us to enjoy. If you haven’t heard them before then now is the time to be musically educated! Code: C148

Beautiful Brass

Stanley Holloway Songs

Everyone knows his monologues but he also had a brilliant baritone voice. Don’t just take our word for it, though, listen to this terrific CD of a person who Arthur Askey described as “The nicest man I ever knew. He never had a wrong word to say about anyone. He was a great actor, a super mimic and a one-man walking comic show.” We couldn’t have put it better ourselves and you will be delighted with this musical tribute. Code: C155

Some musical snobs think the golden age of brass bands has passed — it hasn’t and is very much alive and well! On this new CD you can enjoy familiar tunes played by famous bands, including Fodens, GUS, Morris Motors and the Salvation Army. British brass bands are unique — and so is this specially created disc made with the special help of the current National and British champions, Fodens! Code: C147

Just £9.95 each to UK, overseas £12. US $24; Can $26; Aus $27; NZ $31.

PHONE: 0800 074 0188 (FREE from UK landlines) Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat 9am-5pm. Overseas: +44 1382 575052

ONLINE: www.thisengland.co.uk 96

THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2017

England Gifts Order This form for Gifts

St. George For England Gifts Gentleman’s Silk Tie

How to order: Phone: 0800 074 0188 (FREE from UK landlines) Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat 9am-5pm

Overseas: +44 1382 575052

Made in Lancashire, this handsome 100% silk woven tie is a must for any English gentleman wherever he lives in the world!

Post:

Complete the order form below and post with payment to:

This England Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 814, Haywards Heath, Sussex RH16 9LQ. Online: www.thisengland.co.uk

Code: PGTS

PLEASE USE BLOCK CAPITALS

Please enter your name and address even if ordering for friends

Just £22.95 to UK, overseas £24.95. US $50; Can $53; Aus $55; NZ $64.

Your Title:

First name:

Your Last name:

Lady’s Silk Scarf

Made in Lancashire of 100% printed silk twill, this luxuriously soft scarf with a stylish St. George and shield pattern will complement a lady’s outfit on any smart occasion.

Your Address: Postcode: Telephone: E-mail address: ITEM CODE

ITEM DESCRIPTION

QTY

£/$

P&P

Included

Code: PGLS

Just £19.95 to UK, overseas £21.95. US $44; Can $46; Aus $49; NZ $56.

St. George Accessories

Proud Englishmen and women all around the world are wearing these exquisitely crafted nickel-plated accessories, each with the enamel shield of the Cross of St. George. Presented in smart black leatherette boxes.

LAPEL PIN with long pin & protector Code: PSG04 Just £11.95 to UK, overseas £13.95. US $28; Can $30; Aus $31; NZ $36.

Made in Warwickshire.

PENDANTS or CHARMS Code: PSG06 WAS £12.95 — NOW just £8.95 to UK, overseas £10.95. US $22; Can $23; Aus $25; NZ $28.

Continue on plain paper if necessary

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99

Goodnight World

Goodnight old world, I’m glad to say farewell, Today held many troubled things, Too numerous to tell. I tried to do the best I could, The path was rough and steep, And you, old world, seemed not to care So now I long for sleep.

Goodnight old world I know you’re turning round, And people wake in distant lands Whilst I am safe and sound. Tomorrow I’ll begin again — A new day looking bright, I’ll take my place with you, old world, But until then, goodnight. IRIS HESSELDEN

The dawn of a new day over Robin Hood’s Bay in Yorkshire.

DERYCK LISTER HALLAM