Spring 2017 This England

Citation preview

For all who love our green and pleasant land

SPRING 2017 Quarterly £4.95

CHRISTOPHER NICHOLSON

The Historic Homes of England Powderham Castle, Kenton, near Exeter, Devon

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entioned in the Domesday Book and located to the south of Devon’s cathedral and county town, Exeter, the ancient Manor of Powderham is situated on the western side of the Exe estuary and is one of the country’s oldest family seats, coming into the Courtenays via the dowry of Edward I’s granddaughter, Margaret de Bohun. After marrying Hugh de Courtenay she bore 13 children, including an Archbishop of Canterbury (William Courtenay) and six knights, two of whom were founder members of the Order of the Garter. The fifth of her eight sons, Sir Philip Courtenay, began building the castle in 1391 and it has remained in the family ever since, recently becoming home to the 28th generation Earl and Countess of Devon. Effectively a fortified manor house, it lies within the former hundred of Exminster, midway between Brunel’s original Great Western mainline railway and the A479, which converge near Teignmouth on the coast. Immediately to the south of the castle the River Kenn flows into the larger Exe. The Courtenays originally came from the town of the same name in central France but split during the 12th century, when one of the two sons moved to England after an argument with King Louis VII. His immediate descendants then married into the Earls of Devon. The castle was badly damaged during the Civil War when, following a siege, it was taken from the Royalists by the Parliamentarians. Half a century later, the wreckage was repaired by Sir William Courtenay, before being considerably expanded during the 18th and 19th centuries, notably in the 1790s by the neo-classical and neo-Gothic architect, James Wyatt. Grade 1 listed since 1952, Powderham Castle today is a thriving centre for weddings and social events.

Spring 2017 . . . is a quarterly journal published in Spring, Summer, Autumn and Winter, for all who love our green and pleasant land. Annual subscription rates: (4 quarterly editions, inc. postage and packing): U.K. addresses £19.80; Overseas addresses £27 (by Airmail) Personal dollar cheques accepted from USA at $42.40 per subscription; Canada $54.85; Australia $57.55; New Zealand $63.20. Next four UK Publication Dates (approx): Summer 2017: 10th May; Autumn 2017: 9th Aug.; Winter 2017: 1st Nov.; Spring 2018: 7th Feb. Editor: Stephen Garnett Deputy Editor: Angeline Wilcox Assistant Editors: Susan Kelleher, Peter Worsley Media: Edmund Whitehouse Production: Ann Augur, Keren Bowers Music Editor: Percy Bickerdyke Recording Engineer: Eric Holmes Advertising: Bryn Piper Editorial Secretaries: Christine Freeman Angie Mulcahy Head of Publishing: Maria Welch SALES/SUBSCRIPTIONS: This England, PO Box 814, Haywards Heath, Sussex RH16 9LQ. Telephone: FREEPHONE 0800 074 0188 (Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat 9am-5pm)

Overseas +44 1382 575052 E-mail: [email protected] Internet: www.thisengland.co.uk EDITORIAL: This England, The Lypiatts, Lansdown Road, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire, GL50 2JA. Telephone: UK 01242 225780 Overseas +44 (0) 1242 225780 E-mail: [email protected] Articles and photographs submitted for publication must be accompanied by a stamped addressed envelope for return if unsuitable. Whilst all reasonable care will be taken, the Publishers do not accept responsibility for loss of, or damage to material sent in for consideration. Address all submissions to the Editor at This England’s Editorial Office.

Page Contents 12

The Historic Homes of England:

14 10 14

The Lanes of Old England The Editor’s Letter This Sceptred Isle:

16 22 24 27 28

A Royal History of England: Charles Notes from a Cottage Garden The Glorious River Thames The Day We Opened Tower Bridge Meeting Matt:

30 34 36 40 42 44 45 50 52 54 56 58 64 66 67

Aspects of English Towns: Wetherby, Yorkshire Poets’ Corner Monarch of the Seas: Memories of the QE2 Nelson’s Column: Keeping an eye on the nation Camborne Cheers Trevithick Day Post Box: Letters to the Editor Silver Cross of St. George: Amy Perrin Forget-Me-Nots: A Shropshire Lass

68 70 74 78 100 The scent of spring flowers mingles with the salt-sea air at Portloe in Cornwall. DAVID SELLMAN

SPRING 2017

Source/Contributor Christopher Nicholson Roy Gaveston-Knight Stephen Garnett

Powderham Castle, Kenton, near Exeter, Devon

A Celebration of England for St.George’s Day I

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Matthew Pritchett, the award-winning cartoonist

Kent Worcester Steve Roberts Susan Kelleher John Greeves George Nelson John Husband

Paul James Rosemary Pettigrew Gilly Pickup Jenny Tyler

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Bevin Boy Pictures from the Past In England — Now!: The Arbeau Dancers Elswyth Thane: An American Author Devoted to England England’s Unsung Composers: John Ireland Christian England: Church Curiosities Centenary of the First World War:

Edward Campion Lynne Hayward Max Pudney Angeline Wilcox Roy Hampson Francine Kirsch Peter Worsley Wendy Turner

The Picture on the Wall Portrait of a Village: Brinkworth, Wiltshire

Ray Scott Dene Bebbington

Cornucopia English Books English Diary Easter

— — —

Iris Hesselden

This England — read by two million patriots all over the World! Printed in England by Webmart Ltd, OX26 4UL Distributed by Marketforce (UK), 2nd Floor, 5 Churchill Place, Canary Wharf, London E14 5HU. EXPORT DISTRIBUTION (excluding AU and NZ) Seymour Distribution Ltd, 2 East Poultry Avenue, London EC1A 9PT Tel: +44(0)20 7429 4000 Fax: +44(0)20 7429 4001 Email: [email protected] Website: www.seymour.co.uk © 2016 This England Publishing Ltd.

This England, ISSN 977004061713, is published quarterly by This England Publishing Ltd., Stonecroft, 69 Station Road, Redhill, Surrey, RH1 1EY, UNITED KINGDOM. The US annual subscription price is $42.39. Airfreight and mailing in the USA by agent named Worldnet Shipping Inc., 156-15, 146th Avenue, 2nd Floor, Jamaica, NY 11434, USA. Application to Mail at Periodicals Postage Prices is Pending at Jamaica NY 11431. US Postmaster: Send address changes to This England, Worldnet Shipping Inc., 156-15, 146th Avenue, 2nd Floor, Jamaica, NY 11434, USA. Subscription records are maintained at This England Publishing Ltd., Stonecroft, 69 Station Road, Redhill, Surrey, RH1 1EY, UNITED KINGDOM. Air Business Ltd is acting as our mailing agent. THIS

ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

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The Lanes of Old England Roy Gaveston-Knight

Verdant fields, leafy boughs and spring flowers line a Cheshire lane. DAVID SEDDON

The lanes of old England are tranquil and green, No land can compare, Fresh scents of crushed grasses, damp moss by a brook, Make dreamy the air; When eglantine climbs with sweet woodbine again, Haw hedges spread wide, Flushed beauty and fragrance inspiring to walk With bounce in your stride. Bold trees build shade-canopies arched overhead, Leaves dappling the way, A piping and twittering brightens the mood From first hint of day... With sudden surprises... a horse by his gate, The splash of a spring; New lambs leaping gaily, a hare on the run; Barn owls on the wing.

Cow parsley and buttercups frame this view of St. Andrew’s Church in the Sussex village of Alfriston. DAVID SELLMAN

The lanes of old England wind on and on, Fine views on each hand, A greenery pleasant to eye and to mind Throughout this fair land; They urge us to go further, beyond that next turn Past farmhouse and shed, Past thatch and sharp steeple, and over the hill Where Sol goes down red.

So tranquil, but urgently drawing away Through valley and combe... Where blackbirds and nightingales minstrel for joy, And wild flowers bloom.

Beautiful bluebells bloom beneath arboreal canopies at Enville in Staffordshire. GRAHAM GOUGH

The Editor’s Letter

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t 11 o’clock on the morning of 3rd September 1939, as Sunday lunch was cooking and the delicious aroma of roast beef and Yorkshire pudding or some other family favourite drifted out of open doors and windows into gardens and streets where children were playing in the sunshine, thousands of people across the United Kingdom gathered around their wireless sets in anticipation of the expected announcement. A statement had been made at 10 o’clock informing listeners that Prime Minister Neville Chamberlain was going to address the nation at 11.15, so there was time for those who did not own a wireless to visit those friends, neighbours or relatives who did. For all the weariness with which they were delivered, and although the news was not unexpected, Chamberlain’s words, particularly the beginning of his sombre statement, seared themselves into the listeners’ minds. “I am speaking to you from the Cabinet Room at 10 Downing Street. This morning the British Ambassador in Berlin handed the German Government a final note stating that, unless we hear from them by 11 o’clock that they were prepared at once to withdraw their troops from Poland, a state of war would exist between us. I have to tell you now that no such undertaking has been received, and that consequently this country is at war with Germany…” When he had finished speaking the National Anthem played, and a few minutes later, over London and many other cities across the United Kingdom, air-raid sirens wailed: the first notes in a frequently deafening, cacophonous, sixyear symphony, where the conductor’s baton was more of a conjuror’s magic wand, calling up sights and sounds, movements and routines, colours and shapes that had never been seen, experienced or heard before. During the next few months as those cymbals clashed and drums thundered, the country filled its house with the furniture of war: air-raid shelters, barrage balloons, sandbagged buildings, anti-aircraft batteries, pillboxes, military vehicles, rolls of barbed wire and anti-landing obstructions on beaches. And, as if England were dreaming, all around unfamiliar sights appeared: Home Guard volunteers training in the lanes and woods, Land Army girls toiling in the fields, railway carriages crammed with child evacuees, legions of women working in the factories, servicemen and women wearing military uniforms, queues outside shops stretching along the street, workmen removing iron railings, crowds sheltering underground, the rubble of houses destroyed or damaged by bombs, Hurricanes and Spitfires streaking overhead like exotic birds of prey…

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THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

As season followed season, the bright green and yellow of spring, the warm pink and red of summer, the dazzling bronze and gold of autumn and the vivid black and white of winter were gradually dulled by the blue, grey, camouflage and khaki of a country at war. Having been the bearer of bad tidings on 3rd September 1939, it was the wireless that, as the war progressed, provided people with a much-needed core of stability and togetherness. As the dial was turned and the crackles and whistles faded like a storm clearing, the inspiring, never-say-die voice of Winston Churchill might be heard (he replaced Chamberlain as Prime Minister in May 1940), also the warm, down-to-earth Yorkshire burr of J.B. Priestley, or one of the regular newsreaders and reporters such as Alvar Lidell, Bruce Belfrage, John Snagge and Frank Gillard. There were also Freddie Grisewood (The Kitchen Front), Dr. Charles Hill (“The Radio Doctor”) and popular programmes which included Workers’ Playtime, The Brains Trust, Hi Gang!, Garrison Theatre and ITMA. At a time when everyone in the country listened to the same programmes, the war years made household names of many presenters, comedians and performers. And there was one singer in particular whose strong, clear voice and haunting songs of hope and longing won her a place, above all others, in the affections of the nation. In the early months of the war the Daily Express asked British servicemen to name their favourite singer, and it was this lady who topped the vote and as a result became known as “The Forces’ Sweetheart”. Since then she has become very much “The Country’s Sweetheart” and the person who, alongside Churchill and King George VI and Queen Elizabeth, is most associated with the spirit of Britain during the Second World War. I am referring, of course, to Vera Lynn, who, on 20th March, celebrates her 100th birthday. Vera was 22 when war was declared, and already an established performer. In fact, at the moment Neville Chamberlain made his historic broadcast, she was sitting in the garden of the house at Barking in Essex, which, thanks to the money she had earned from her singing career, she had been able to buy for herself and her parents. It was appropriate that the three of them should be living together, because the family background that her mum and dad had provided when she was a little girl had made it almost inevitable that Vera would one day become a professional singer. As they sat in deckchairs sipping their cups of tea, like everyone else who heard the announcement on that sunny September day they must have wondered what the next few years would bring. It was a momentous moment for the world. Although they did not know it at the time, it was also a momentous moment for Vera. Britain was engaged in another world war when Vera was born, Vera Margaret Welch, on 20th March 1917. Her father, Bertram, was a plumber, although he had also worked in the docks and been employed as a glass-blower. Vera has often commented on his easy-going nature, love of a joke and tendency to let her and her older brother (by three years) Roger do pretty much as they wanted. It was her mother, Annie, a dressmaker, who was the “go-getter”, who instilled a

Vera singing at a munitions factory in 1941.

TRINITY MIRROR/MIRRORPIX/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

strong work ethic in her children, and because of her skill with a needle and thread ensured that they were always well-dressed. For the first four years of Vera’s life home was a ground-floor flat in East Ham, Essex. They then moved to a house in the same area which they shared with Annie’s mother, Margaret Martin. Although the family were not well-off, there was always food on the table and a lively, happy atmosphere. Every August there were also idyllic summer holidays with relatives who lived at Weybourne on the Norfolk coast. The weeks spent there gave Vera a lifelong love of the English countryside. In those days, whenever working-class families and friends met for parties or gatherings in the local pub, there would often be a sing-song round the piano or a “turn” by someone who fancied themselves as a comedian or storyteller. In this respect, the Welch family were no different from many of their contemporaries. However, for Vera’s family, singing and entertaining played a huge part in their lives all year round. Vera’s Uncle George (the Weybourne relative) was a regular performer at a number of small venues with his impression of George Robey, while her father, a talented dancer, was MC at East Ham Working Men’s Club where Annie often helped out. The whole family would go to the club each week, so Vera quickly became immersed in the world of show business and, at the age of seven, began getting up on stage to sing and dance. Over the next few years, although increasingly well-known on the local working men’s club circuit, as a rather shy girl who worried about forgetting her lines, Vera did not enjoy performing. She was aware, however, that the money she received was of tremendous help to the family, and, in any case, in those days children did what their parents asked without any complaint. What Vera did enjoy was being taken to the local variety theatre, where she would marvel at the colour and versatility of the various acts. One of the artists who made a big impression was Florrie Forde, highly thought of at the time for having entertained the troops during the Great War. It was when Vera was 11 and joined a juvenile troupe, Madame Harris’s Kracker Kabaret Kids, that she adopted her grandmother’s maiden name, Lynn. She was with the troupe for four enjoyable years, travelling slightly further afield and gaining valuable experience as they performed in clubs and on the stages of cinemas. Vera had never really liked school so when she was 14 she decided to leave. Although she found a job at a local factory, sewing on buttons, the work was so boring and poorly paid compared with the money she earned from her singing she only lasted a day. Her decision, supported by Annie and Bertram, to concentrate on her musical career quickly paid off.

In June 1942 the Forces’ Sweetheart opened a Ladies Guild YMCA car.

In 1932, after a performance at Poplar Baths, she was signed by bandleader Howard Baker who was responsible for a number of bands. Her busy schedule included a week in Manchester with Billy Cotton (for which she earned the considerable sum for the time of £5!) which, although it didn’t last, proved another important stepping stone. Although turned down by Henry Hall after an audition at the BBC, she was taken on by up-and-coming bandleader Joe Loss. In August 1935, this led to a very important milestone: her first radio broadcast. Events were moving fast for Vera, and after a successful audition at his Casani Club in London’s Regent Street, she joined the popular American band-leader and pianist Charlie Kunz. Her Saturday night broadcasts with Charlie brought her appealing voice to a much wider audience. At the same time she was recording with the Casani Club Band (The first disc was “I’m in the Mood for Love”) and making records for the Crown label: anonymously in the beginning but, as her name became known, with the small credit, “With Vocal Refrain by Vera Lynn”. Her first solo record, in February 1936, was “Up the Wooden Hill to Bedfordshire”/“That’s What Loneliness Means to Me”. Suddenly Vera’s picture was appearing in the local press and letters from fans were dropping on the mat. She was on her way up the golden hill to stardom. Like many singers at the time, Vera spent a lot of time in the offices of the music publishers who inhabited Denmark Street. There she would browse sheet music for new songs and it was here that she became acquainted with Joe Brannelly, an American musician who had played with the top bandleader of the day, Bert Ambrose, whose stints at the Embassy Club, Cafe de Paris and Mayfair Hotel with the finest musicians had gained him an unrivalled reputation. Although reluctant at first — Ambrose already had two great vocalists in Evelyn Dall and Sam Browne — the bandleader was persuaded by Brannelly to give Vera a chance. As her broadcasts and appearances with the band began to attract favourable reviews and a lot of fan mail, Ambrose realised what a jewel he had. His appreciation of her was demonstrated when, tired of Dall’s hostility to her, she decided to leave the band. Ambrose travelled from London to Glasgow to persuade her to change her mind. He also doubled her salary. Vera was now at the top of the tree and, although her background had taught her not to be a spendthrift, she was keen to enjoy the rewards of her hard work. First of all she bought a car, a green Austin 10, and learnt to drive: unusual for a  THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

11

‘THE EDITOR’S LETTER’ (continued)

RICHARD BAKER NEWS/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

woman in the 1930s. Then she acquired the house in Barking (for £1,175), the most enjoyable aspect of which was being able to take a bath in a proper bathroom! Life with the band was exciting and included an early television broadcast from Alexandra Palace in 1938, and tours of the United Kingdom and the Netherlands. The band members treated Vera like their young sister, but travelling on trains and coaches across the country to perform at ballrooms, theatres, factories and concerts for the troops, she gradually became particularly close to the clarinettist and tenor saxophonist, Harry Lewis. They became engaged at the end of 1939. In due course, Harry and several other musicians joined the RAF and formed The Squadronaires dance band. Recording was becoming increasingly important, and it was during this period that Vera released the song for which she would forever be associated: “We’ll Meet Again”. Another song that captured the mood of the time was “Goodnight Children, Everywhere”, a poignant accompaniment to the widespread evacuation that was taking place. The sales of her records and the positive comments she was receiving from radio listeners and concert audiences prompted Vera to strike out on her own as a solo performer. A series of successful concerts culminated in a spot in a new variety show at the Holborn Empire, Apple Sauce, alongside Max Miller. Unfortunately, not long after the show opened the theatre suffered a direct hit during an air raid.

Dame Vera with Spitfire Pilot Flt. Lt. William Walker on the 70th anniversary of the Battle of Britain.

Vera continued to record, driving to the studios through bomb-shattered streets in her little car. “Business as usual” was the motto of most Londoners and a desire to show that Hitler wouldn’t stop them enjoying themselves. In this spirit, on 5th March 1941, to tremendous acclaim, Apple Sauce reopened at the London Palladium. Joining the cast was popular singer and impressionist Florence Desmond. She and Vera became great friends. In her autobiography, Some Sunny Day (Harper Collins, 2009), Vera described what would typically happen in the theatre during an air raid: “I think they just used to put an illuminated sign on at the side of the stage to say that there was an alert on, and I suppose there were always a few members of the audience who would get up and go, most of them just stayed where they were and we’d carry on.” The show ran until November 1941, during which time, on 11th August at Marylebone Register Office, Vera and Harry had found time to marry.

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THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

After Vera was voted the British Expeditionary Force’s favourite singer in April 1940, the BBC was inundated with requests from servicemen wanting to hear her songs. It was Vera’s idea that she should present a regular programme singing some of the requests, and so it was that, in November 1941, Sincerely Yours — Vera Lynn was launched. Although modestly billed as “To the men of the Forces: a letter in words and music from Vera Lynn, accompanied by Fred Hartley and his orchestra”, the show, broadcast on Sunday evenings after the news, proved phenomenally successful. “After the first shows, we were flooded with requests,” recalled Vera, “and they continued to pour in at a rate of over a thousand a week. To establish an intimate link with individuals in the audience, I visited hospitals and nursing homes before the show so that I could tell Gunner Jones or Bombardier Brown that his wife had just had a baby, that I had talked to her and that mother and child were just fine. It was like putting their hands together.” Given the popularity of “We’ll Meet Again”, “White Cliffs of Dover”, “Yours” and Vera’s many other songs, and knowing how they became so intricately bound up with the war effort, it is astonishing to realise that, at the time, there were some in the BBC, in Parliament and in the ranks of retired military officers who tried to have them banned on the grounds of their “slushy sentimentality” which they believed would make the men homesick and undermine morale. For Vera, the satisfaction gleaned from the success of Sincerely Yours was matched in April 1942 when she was invited to appear at a Royal Command Performance at Windsor Castle to celebrate the 16th birthday of Princess Elizabeth. Other entertainers taking part included Tommy Handley and the cast of ITMA, comedian Robb Wilton, actor Jack Warner and harmonica player Max Geldray. In 1942 Vera made her first film, We’ll Meet Again; this was followed by Rhythm Serenade (1943) and One Exciting Night (1944). It was in 1939 that Basil Dean and Leslie Henson founded ENSA (Entertainments National Service Association) to provide entertainment for British military personnel. Vera Lynn’s unique relationship with our servicemen, together with a desire to “do her bit” more actively, made it inevitable that she would volunteer. However, for someone who had hardly travelled outside London, her choice of destination was brave to say the least. On 23rd March 1944, having donned her ENSA uniform and with her accompanist Len Edwards by her side, she set off for one of the most inhospitable of all the theatres of the war: Burma. Transport throughout the exhausting journey was a combination of sea planes, old military aircraft and rickety army lorries, with stops en route at Cairo, Bombay and Calcutta where Vera gave concerts for the troops, did some radio broadcasts and visited hospitals. It was quite an ordeal for someone who suffered from both air sickness and sea sickness, but gave her a foretaste of the hardships she would endure when they reached Burma: heat, stomach upsets, mosquitoes and the most primitive living conditions. Vera took it all in her stride, performing in front of audiences that could number anything from a handful to several thousand, in theatres, in hospitals, on makeshift stages, under canvas or in the open air wherever the troops happened to be. On a number of occasions, soldiers who were soon to go into battle, hearing that Vera was due to arrive, would wait all day on the edge of

ROGER BAMBER/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

the jungle in order to see her show. Just as important as the songs Vera sang was the way she talked to them, answering their questions about what was going on at home and listening to stories about the people and places they missed. The “strange and wonderful experience” that stayed with Vera for the rest of her life lasted four months. Having shared the hardships of the troops in Burma, shortly after her return from the Far East Vera got a taste of what people on the home front had been experiencing. Although Vera’s parents continued to live in the house she had bought before the war, Vera and Harry were now renting a property in the same road. During the summer of 1944 it was damaged by a landmine, making most of the property uninhabitable and forcing them to look for somewhere else to live. This led to a major change in their lives: the purchase of Clayton Holt, a huge, 22-roomed property with 198 acres of land on the South Downs of Sussex. As well as running the house and trying to make it a profitable business enterprise with cows, chickens and a large fruit orchard, Vera continued to work. However, with the birth of their daughter, Virginia, on 10th March 1946, she decided to put her career on hold. Although Vera had seriously considered retiring for good, when it became clear that Clayton Holt would never be a going concern, she decided to return to recording, performing and broadcasting. They sold the property, and after a short period living in a flat in Regent’s Park bought a house in Finchley. This would be their home for 22 years, but with Vera still yearning for a life in the country, they also purchased a small cottage in Ditchling. The world of entertainment was changing, with many small theatres closing down, but Vera was relieved to discover that she was still very much in demand. With Harry as her personal manager, they toured as a family, staying in hotels and guest houses across the country. As well as her continuing popularity in the UK, Vera was astonished to learn that she had a large following in both Denmark and the Netherlands and performed at many concerts in those countries. Incredibly, in 1949 the BBC’s Head of Variety told Vera that they did not want her to do any more broadcasts because her type of music was “finished”. It was an astonishing insult and displayed breathtaking ignorance of the affection with which Vera and her songs were regarded. A successful summer show at Blackpool followed in 1951 (later transferring to the Adelphi in The Strand as London Laughs, with Vera alongside Tony Hancock and Jimmy Edwards), broadcasts on Radio Luxembourg and a series of appearances in the United States on Tallulah Bankhead’s popular radio programme The Big Show. This led to the recording of what became her biggest hit record: “Auf Wiederseh’n Sweetheart”. Although Vera turned down a lot of work because of the need to look after Virginia, there were also tours of Scandinavia (she was there in 1954 when she learnt of the death of her father), and a 17-week series on the new Independent Television channel. Another big hit record was “My Son, My Son”. In 1956 Vera did finally return to the BBC, with TV shows, radio broadcasts and a series of programmes in which she acted as disc jockey. In 1960 she made the first of three appearances at the Royal Variety Performance (repeated in 1975 and 1986) and over the years, as a staunch royalist, built up a friendship with the Queen Mother.

At home on her 90th birthday.

Her first tour of Australia and New Zealand, travelling with Harry and Virginia and with co-star the popular trumpeter Eddie Calvert, took place in 1963 and was a sell-out success. She played 48 concerts in 40 days and was thrilled to meet a lot of families who had emigrated from England and who thanked her for “taking a part of home” out to them. Throughout the Sixties and Seventies, Vera continued to perform and record. She hosted her own television show in 1969, discovering new songs to suit her style such as “Windmills of Your Mind” and “By the Time I Get to Phoenix”, and enjoying working with the dance group The Young Generation. As Vera got older she made a deliberate decision to gradually reduce these television appearances, devoting most of her time instead to her family, her garden and a great deal of charity work (In 1955 she had been one of the founders of the Stars Foundation for Cerebral Palsy). This culminated, in 1968, with the OBE “for services to the Royal Air Forces Association and other charities”. An even greater honour came in 1975 when she was made Dame Commander of the Order of the British Empire (DBE). Vera Lynn’s last public performance was in May 1995, the golden jubilee of VE-Day, when she sang to an audience of thousands outside Buckingham Palace. Ten years later, she attended the 60th anniversary celebrations when Katherine Jenkins revived many memories by singing “We’ll Meet Again”. Vera made a typically inspiring speech, urging young people never to forget the sacrifices made by their forebears. It was Vera’s attitude — shared by many of her generation — to “just get on with it”, as well as her tireless charity work, that helped her come to terms with the devastating loss of Harry in 1998, following a stroke. Today she lives quietly in Ditchling, with Virginia and her husband Tom as neighbours. Dame Vera Lynn has had a wonderful life and has given so much to so many people in so many different ways. The working-class girl from East Ham captured the hearts of the wartime generation with her lovely voice and simple, wistful songs, and then went on to become an ambassador for that generation and the men and women to whom we owe so much. As this remarkable lady celebrates her 100th birthday, I am sure that you will join me in sending her our warmest congratulations and very best wishes. Happy birthday, Dame Vera! And thanks for everything! A new CD of Vera Lynn’s songs is available from This England. For further details, please see page 92. THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

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THIS SCEPTRED ISLE

A Celebration of England for St. George’s Day England and Home

My Flag ag Let my nation’s fl e, m r fo y Always fl Let it fly so high see. For the world to . George Let the flag of St st, Rise above the re l bo m Let it be a sy st. Of all that is be flag So let me fly my d to be And say I’m prou land Part of this great try. un co That I call my

“Ah,” sighed the gaffer, “it’s quite right what the song says: “there’s no place like home. When I’ve made my bit, I’m going back to end my days peaceful. Green medders. Yaller cornfields. A cottage covered all over with creeper…The village’ll still be there, the woods, an’ the river, an’ the hills, an’ the sea in the distance. Them things don’t alter. There ha’ been times aboard o’ some rotten old wind-jammer, under the Sorthern Cross, when I’ve seen the little stone bridge as I fell off of into the mill-dam, and the little God’s acre behind the church…I’ve seen ’em plainer ’n I could ever see the everlasting ocean an’ the sky all round me. Cos that wos my home, d’ye understand? England.” EDWIN PUGH (1874-1930)

“England has two books, the Bible and Shakespeare. England made Shakespeare, but the Bible made England.” — VICTOR HUGO (1802-1885) ST. GEORGE’S DAY

PEGGY LOCKE

“England is a country with edges and a core. It is a country very small for the number of people who live in it, and very appreciable to the eye for the traveller who travels on foot or in a boat from place to place. Considering the part it has in the making of the world, it might very justly be compared to a jewel which is very small and very valuable and can almost be held in the hand.” — HILAIRE BELLOC (1870-1953)

England is our castle wall and steadfast shield, Fight on, fight on, ne ver yield. See now St. George’s banner fly, Hear now our battle cry: “St. George for Engla nd — England!” Fight on for justice an d for right, Fear not the enemy’s might, Our enemy shall know fear, This battle cry to hear: “St. George for Engla nd — England!” The battle’s now wo n, Our day’s work be do ne, In song our voices rai se, Give this land our pra ise: “St. George for Engla nd — England!” J.W. PAGETT

Stained glass at St. Mi chael and All Angels Church, Linton, Yorks hire. DOROTHY BURROW S

The English Country Cottage

Thatched cottage, Wherwell, Hampshire. KRYS BAILEY

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THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

A cottage — no — a miniature house, with many additions, little odds and ends of places, pantries, and what not; all angles, and of a charming in-and-outness; a little bricked court before one half, and a little flower-yard before the other; the walls old and weather-stained, covered with hollyhocks, roses, honeysuckles, and a great apricot-tree; the casements full of geraniums (ah! there is our superb white cat peeping out from among them); the closets (our landlord has the assurance to call them rooms) full of contrivances and corner-cupboards; and the little garden behind full of common flowers, tulips, pinks, larkspurs, peonies, stocks, and carnations, with an arbour of privet, not unlike a sentry-box where one lives in a delicious green light, and looks out on the gayest of all gay flower-beds. That house was built on purpose to show in what an exceeding small compass comfort may be packed. MARY RUSSELL MITFORD (1787-1855)

“A seashell should be the crest of England, not only because it represents a power built on the waves, but also the hard finish of the men.” — RALPH WALDO EMERSON (1803-1882) The English Language I take it you already kno w Of tough and bough and cough and dough? Others may stumble, but not you On hiccough, thorough, slough and through. Well done! And now you wish, perhaps, To learn of less familiar traps? Beware of heard, a dreadful word That looks like beard and sounds like bird. And dead; it’s said like bed, not bead. For goodness sake, don’t call it deed ! Watch out for meat and great and threat (They rhyme with suite and stra ight and debt). A moth is not a moth in mother, Nor both in bother, broth in brot her. And here is not a match for there, Nor dear and fear for bear and pea r, And then there’s dose and rose and lose — Just look them up — and goose and choose, And cork and work and card and ward And font and front and word and sword. And do and go and thwart and cart — Come, come, I’ve hardly made a start. A dreadful language? Man alive, I mastered it when I was five. ANON

“England is a domestic country; here home is revered and the hearth sacred.” — BENJAMIN DISRAELI (1804-1881) A Word in Season (1940) Since Angle, Jute and Saxon became one With Norman, never have we lost a war, Even though England bears full many a scar Of old disasters and we oft have known Defeat, as when there struggled for the throne The white rose and the red, or an ill star Shone on King Charles and Cromwell, or afar Cornwallis and his men were overthrown; But always, when we came upon defeat, English with English fought. No foreign power Has ever yet laid England at its feet. And those that wait and watch us at this hour, Like wolves about a camp, do well to wait, For to fight England is like fighting Fate.

View from the Wrekin, Shropshire. JOHN HAYWARD

Home Thoughts From Abroad Oh, to be in England Now that April’s there, And whoever wakes in England Sees, some morning unaware, That the lowest boughs and the brushwood sheaf Round the elm-tree bole are in tiny leaf, While the chaffinch sings on the orchard bough In England — now! And after April, when May follows, And the whitethroat builds, and all the swallows. Hark where my blossomed pear-tree in the hedge Leans to the field and scatters on the clover Blossoms and dewdrops — at the bent spray’s edge — That’s the wise thrush; he sings each song twice over, Lest you should think he never could recapture The first fine careless rapture! And though the fields look rough with hoary dew, All will be gay when noontide wakes anew The buttercups, the little children’s dower — Far brighter than this gaudy melon-flower! ROBERT BROWNING (1812-1889)

“He is not deserving of the name of Englishman who speaketh against ale; that is, good ale.” — GEORGE BORROW (1803-1881) Warwick Castle. R.V. JONES

LORD DUNSANY (1878-1957)

Porlock Bay, Somerset. FRAN HALSALL

THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

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A

s crowds jostle daily along London’s Whitehall, going about their business, few people probably glance up to see the small bust of an English monarch above the entrance to the Banqueting House, all that now remains of a former Royal Palace. But on 30th January every year King Charles I, whose bust gazes down, is remembered with a service at the building from which he was led out onto a temporary wooden scaffold to become the only King of England to be publicly executed. During the Mass, which is organised by the Society of King Charles the Martyr, relics of the King are laid on the altar for veneration and a choir, usually from King’s College, Cambridge, sings in his honour. The English Civil War Society also mounts a parade on the Sunday nearest to the anniversary of his death, following the route of Charles’s final journey from St. James’s Palace, across Horse Guards Parade to Whitehall, where a wreath is laid and a service takes place at the site of his execution. Similar commemorative events and observances of his Feast Day are held across the country. Considered a martyr from the moment of his death, King Charles I was canonised after the Restoration in 1660 for his firm resolve to keep the Church of England part of the One Holy Catholic and Apostolic Church, so that its ancient traditions could be retained and not reformed into the Puritan/Presbyterian style of worship. In 1895 Bishop Creighton, later Bishop of London, wrote, “Had Charles been willing to abandon the Church and give up Episcopacy, he might have saved the throne and his life. But on this point he stood firm; for this he died and, by dying, saved it for the future.” Victorian Prime Minister William Gladstone concurred, “It was for the Church that King Charles shed his blood upon the scaffold.”

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Charles had himself written, “Let my condition be never so low, I resolve by the grace of God, never to yield up the Church. By God’s grace, no misery shall make me change Episcopal government into Presbyterian. God is my witness,

Charles I (1625-1649)

my chiefest end in regaining my power is to do the Church service.” Today there are at least five churches in England dedicated to King Charles the Martyr, including those in Tunbridge Wells (Kent), Potters Bar (Hertfordshire), Falmouth (Cornwall), Shelland (Suffolk) and Newtown (Shropshire). Fortunately the King, who is particularly remembered for his death, also has his birthday celebrated at services to mark his nativity. The second son of King James I and Anne of Denmark, Charles Stuart was born on 19th November 1600 at Dunfermline Palace, Fife. Not until the birth of

Princess Margaret at Glamis Castle in 1930 was another heir so close to the English throne born in Scotland. Charles was created Duke of Albany at his baptism and became Duke of York and a Knight of the Bath at the age of four; he was made a Knight of the Garter by the age of 10, and became Duke of Cornwall and heir apparent on the death of his elder brother, Henry, in 1612. Just days before his 16th birthday, Charles was invested as Prince of Wales and Earl of Chester. His other titles included Marquess of Ormond, Earl of Carrick, Earl of Ross, Baron Renfrew, Lord Ardmannoch, Lord of the Isles, Prince and Great Steward of Scotland. A weak and sickly child, Charles was very shy, partly because his elder brother was so extrovert. Even as an adult, it was said that Charles blushed if anyone used bad language in his presence. He was smaller than average height and never grew to be more than 5' 4", possibly because he had a very spartan diet. He also suffered with weak ankles as a result of rickets and had to wear reinforced boots, made for him by one Edward Stuteville, to enable him to begin walking. In addition, he had a speech defect and did not actually start to speak until the age of three. Throughout his life he had a slight stammer, although worked hard to control it by speaking in a careful, deliberate way. Although shy, the boy was wilful, difficult to control and did not accept discipline. But as he matured into adulthood, it is recorded that he had a polite, kind, gentle manner and preferred to avoid confrontation. Somewhat lonely, particularly after the death of his brother, and the departure of his sister, Elizabeth, to Germany when she married in 1613, Charles struck up a friendship with his father’s favourite courtier George Villiers, the Duke of Buckingham. Some historians credit Buckingham for giving Charles attention and helping him to blossom and gain in confidence. James I referred to Charles and George as “my sweet boys”. Charles had a formal education, which included studying languages such as Greek and Latin, mathematics, architecture and the arts. He was extremely musical and could play the viola to a very high standard. Literature was very important to him too, and he loved poetry, and he was particularly fond of the plays of Shakespeare, although poet John Milton commented that Charles’s only vice was “reading too much Shakespeare”!

For relaxation Charles enjoyed playing tennis and bowls as he grew older, and loved riding and hunting. He was artistic, acted in masques, and was good at painting, although none of his own works are thought to have survived. In adulthood he collected a large number of pictures and was very knowledgeable about the artists. During his reign he employed Rubens to paint the ceiling of the Banqueting House in Whitehall. Following the death of Queen Elizabeth I, Charles’s father became King James I and the family moved to England in July 1604. Although Charles resided in England for the rest of his life, he never completely lost all traces of a Scottish accent. As Prince of Wales and heir to the throne, the question of Charles’s marriage became an increasingly important issue as he grew older. In 1623 Charles went with Buckingham to Madrid in an unsuccessful attempt to woo the Spanish Infanta, Maria Anna, daughter of Philip III of Spain. But Philip would only allow the relationship to proceed on the condition that Charles converted to the Roman Catholic faith, and so he returned to England still a bachelor. As the Infanta ran away as soon as she saw Charles, any relationship seemed doomed from the start! To overcome the humiliation of rejection, Charles demanded that his father declare war with Spain as soon as he was back in England. Parliament wanted Charles to marry a Protestant, but ultimately he went against their wishes and married the staunchly Catholic Princess Henrietta Maria, daughter of King Henry IV of France. As the French and Spanish were sworn enemies at the time, the union may have been another way of rebuffing Spain. At their first meeting, the 15-yearold Henrietta Maria was keen to make Charles aware of her height and was

A portrait of Henrietta Maria by Sir Anthony van Dyck (1599-1641) and, by the same artist, the couple’s five eldest children: Left to right: Mary, James, Charles, Elizabeth and Anne. Below: The Church of King Charles the Martyr, Royal Tunbridge Wells, Kent. BRIAN HEBDITCH

adamant that she was not wearing high heels. “Sire, I stand on my own two feet,” she exclaimed in her native tongue, “I have no help by art; this high am I, neither higher nor lower!” As Charles was only 5' 4" tall himself, it is strange that she felt a need to draw attention to her height! Charles succeeded his father on 27th March 1625 when he was aged 24. He was crowned at Westminster Abbey on 2nd June 1626, and again in June 1633 at Holyrood Abbey when he became King of Scotland. Going against tradition, Charles wore white at his coronation and so became known as “The White King”. A few weeks after his accession, Charles and Henrietta Maria were married on 1st May 1625 by proxy at Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris, then in person at Canterbury Cathedral on 13th June 1625, spending their wedding night in the state bed-chamber of St. Augustine’s Abbey in Canterbury. It was not initially a happy marriage, particularly as Henrietta Maria was unable to speak English when she first came to England, but they eventually grew to love each other. They spent the first two years living apart, meeting only for official duties and state

occasions. Almost five years of marriage were to pass before Henrietta Maria produced an heir, the future Charles II, but the couple went on to have four sons and five daughters, including the future James II. By the terms of the marriage contract, Henrietta Maria was responsible for bringing up their children until they were 13. When Henrietta Maria arrived in England ahead of their marriage, she had an enormous retinue of staff, numbering several hundred, which shocked the King’s courtiers. Within a year Charles had dispensed with the services of more than 400 of them,  THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

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‘A ROYAL HISTORY OF ENGLAND’ (continued)

Above: Thomas Wentworth, 1st Earl of Strafford (1593-1641). Below: Archbishop William Laud (1573-1645).

including 30 clergy. Henrietta Maria was looked upon as virtually a missionary for the Roman Catholic faith and she refused to participate in a Church of England coronation ceremony, so was not crowned Queen Consort. She took little interest in England or English affairs, and was not sympathetic to the Church of England either. Yet the Church was to have a profound effect on Charles’s life and reign. Being High Anglican and enjoying ritual, Charles easily accepted his wife’s Catholic style of worship, even if she did not accept his. But Parliament was Puritan (Low Church) at this time, which immediately put the King at odds with his ministers. King Charles I was a very different character to his predecessors. Perhaps because of his innate shyness, he was said to be aloof from his people. Not for him the royal progresses across England so that he could be seen by his subjects and walk amongst them, as Elizabeth I had done. His progresses tended to involve travelling between royal residences or to hunting lodges for his own amusement. Although he did make speeches in public

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when required, these were a trial for him and not something that he enjoyed doing. Through the numerous portraits painted of Charles I in his lifetime, notably the famous triptych painting by Sir Anthony Van Dyck, we have a very clear idea of how the King looked, with long chestnut brown hair and pointed goatee beard. Paintings up to the early 1620s show him wearing a ruff and with collar-length hair, but by the time he came to the throne this had been replaced by a much longer, shoulderlength hairstyle and an ornate lace collar. From an early age Charles wore a gold earring in his left ear, and a grander pearl earring once he became King. Portraits of Charles all have one thing in common: an air of dignity. As King, Charles continued to be greatly influenced by George Villiers. The Duke of Buckingham had been unpopular during the reign of James I and was no more welcomed in Charles’s time. Spurred on by Buckingham, the King engaged in wars against Spain and France that were disasters for England. Buckingham was described at the time as “the great author of our misfortunes”. Parliament refused to grant supplies needed to pursue military campaigns and the pair resorted to selling off royal properties to raise money. Parliament was particularly suspicious of Buckingham and tried to have him impeached in June 1626 because of his poor leadership in war. Charles was angered and immediately dissolved Parliament. Two years later in August 1628, Buckingham was murdered by a grudge-fuelled infantry lieutenant named John Felton. Felton was owed £80 in back pay and had twice been passed over for promotion. Filled with anger, he plunged a knife into Buckingham’s heart at the Greyhound Inn in Portsmouth. Buckingham, who was about to lead an expedition for the relief of La Rochelle in France, died almost instantly. Felton fled through the kitchen, but eventually gave himself up. Although many felt that he had done the world a service by removing Buckingham, Felton was tried, found guilty and hanged at Tyburn. His body was taken back to Portsmouth, where it was venerated by the public. The dagger used to kill the duke was put on display and the cross-guard style actually became known as the “Buckingham Dagger”. For the King, Buckingham’s murder was a tragedy. He withdrew from public view, grief-stricken. At Charles’s insistence, Buckingham was buried in

Westminster Abbey in an elaborate tomb in Henry VII’s chapel, a place that had previously been reserved for royalty. Friction with Parliament dominated Charles I’s reign from beginning to end. Between 1625 and 1629 he called three Parliaments and each time he ended up dissolving them because of their differing viewpoints. For 11 years, from 1629 to 1640, he tried to rule without Parliament at all, a period that is now known as the “Eleven Years Tyranny”. With no Parliament, there was no financial backing for the monarch. Charles therefore increased taxes to raise money, which made him unpopular. In 1634 he revived the Anglo-Saxon Ship Tax to finance the navy, but faced stiff opposition including at least one attempt through the courts to suppress it. He also brought an end to the costly wars with France and Spain, merely to save money, and attempted to recover church lands that had been lost during the reign of Henry VIII. The King had two main advisers at this period: Thomas Wentworth, 1st Earl of Strafford (known as “Black Tom”) and William Laud, who was appointed Archbishop of Canterbury in 1633. The latter was a particularly severe man and anti-Puritan. Any clergy who disobeyed his rules could be flogged, branded, imprisoned or have their ears cut off! Even parishioners faced heavy fines for the least misdeed and people were persecuted in the infamous Star Chamber and Court of High Commission. Puritans sought religious freedom by fleeing to American colonies in Massachusetts and New England. In 1637 William Laud tried to Anglicise the Scottish church and forced a new prayer book on them so that England and Scotland should be uniform in their worship. This was deeply unpopular and thousands of Scots signed a National Covenant, registering their opposition to the new prayer book and also to bishops, as Presbyterians had no time for bishops. This resulted in two skirmishes known as Bishops’ Wars, when Charles tried to forcibly impose his will on the Scottish church. But this created a dilemma for him, because only Parliament could grant funds to finance a war. Suddenly he needed the Parliament that he so detested, and a “Short Parliament” met in April 1640, but ministers wanted the matter settled through negotiation rather than battle. The King was forced to give in to the Scots and promptly dissolved Parliament. Charles reluctantly agreed

Above: A re-enactment of the siege of Bolsover Castle during the Civil War. DAVID MUSCROFT Right: The Battle of Naseby (14th June 1645) when the victory of the New Model Army under Sir Thomas Fairfax and Oliver Cromwell (below) marked a turning point in the English Civil War.

to sign the Treaty of Ripon, which was designed to keep the Scots north of Yorkshire until the situation was fully resolved. By its terms, Northumberland and County Durham were ceded to the Scots, and Charles had to pay them £850 a day to keep their armies there. As he was facing financial problems, this did not go down well. In November 1640 Parliament resumed and is now known as the “Long Parliament” as it actually lasted for 20 years. Once again, Charles was forced to concede and accept the terms that Parliament should meet at least once every three years and could no longer be dissolved by the King without consent. Parliament gained total control over taxes and military matters, and abolished Charles’s unpopular Ship Tax. Parliament issued the “Grand Remonstrance” in 1641, listing all their grievances against the King since the start of his reign. Parliament also wanted to rid itself of his closest advisers. In 1641 Strafford was tried and executed for being a corrupting influence on the King. Charles was forced to sign a Bill of Attainder, which in essence meant that Strafford could be put to death for any reason. When Strafford heard that Charles had signed the bill, he quoted Psalm 146: “Put not your trust in Princes, nor in the son of man, in whom there is no help.” Strafford was executed at Tower Hill and Charles’s other adviser, Archbishop Laud, lost his head in 1645. The power of the Crown diminished and Parliament now had control. The Star Chamber and Court of High Commission were abolished. Puritan John Pym was Leader of the

Commons, but there was one matter in which Charles adamantly refused to bow to pressure and that was in not allowing any reform of the Church of England. The Commons felt that Charles’s Roman Catholic Queen had too much influence and that the Church of England was becoming Anglo-Catholic in style. On 4th January 1642 Parliament tried to impeach the Queen. Charles went straight to the Commons himself to arrest five MPs for high treason, but the men had gone. “I see all the birds are flown,” he told the Speaker, “I do expect that you shall send them unto me as they return hither. If not, I will seek them myself, for their treason is foul and such a one as you will thank me to discover.” To which the Speaker, William Lenthall, famously replied, “May it please Your Majesty, I have neither eyes to see nor tongue to speak in this place but as this House is pleased to direct me, whose servant I am.” With Royalists and Parliamentarians now at odds over many matters, civil war loomed. In August 1642 the King mustered an army at Nottingham with his nephew Prince Rupert. To raise sufficient funds, Queen Henrietta Maria pawned the Crown Jewels in the Netherlands. A contemporary report states that she received 1,265,300 guilders from the sale and pawning of personal, Crown and State treasures. Although some pieces were lost for ever, a few items were recovered and other medieval objects had remained in England anyway. After Charles I’s death, the Crown Jewels were further depleted when the regalia was stripped of precious jewels and the gold melted down to turn into coins

So, with money available, the Civil War began — with the King and members of the nobility on one side (Cavaliers) and the Parliamentarians with townspeople and yeomen on the other (Roundheads), although it was much more a war of religion — Anglicans versus Puritans — than a class war. There was a geographical boundary, with a dividing line down the length of England from Southampton in the south up to the River Humber in the north. Royalists were west of this line, Parliamentarians to the east. London, roughly in the centre, became the key stronghold to take. Charles was successful at the Battle of Edgehill, Warwickshire, in October 1642, but was thwarted at Turnham Green a month later by nearly 25,000 Londoners. A series of battles were fought across England over the next two years, with neither side having any great victories. A defining moment came in July 1644 with the Battle of Marston Moor, when a cavalry general by the name of Oliver  THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

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‘A ROYAL HISTORY OF ENGLAND’ (continued)

Carisbrooke Castle, where Charles was imprisoned in 1647. He made two unsuccessful attempts to escape. PAUL COLLINS

Cromwell came to the fore with his New Model Army. The Royalists were defeated and Charles lost control of the north of England. At the Battle of Naseby in 1645, Charles suffered further huge losses, including many of his best officers, at least half his cavalry, and all his artillery and infantry. His sons, Charles and James, fled abroad for safety. In September 1645 in a battle at Philiphaugh near Selkirk in Scotland, the King’s representative, the Marquis of Montrose, was defeated by the Covenanters (Scottish Presbyterians). In May 1646 Charles surrendered to the Scots and was taken prisoner. Oxford fell a month later and the war ended. The Scots sold the King to the English Parliament. Cromwell wanted to negotiate with the King, but Charles’s advisers felt that too much power was being taken away from the monarch. Charles was kept in “honourable captivity” at various locations including Hampton Court, but escaped and fled to the Isle of Wight, where he tried unsuccessfully to bargain from afar. He sought refuge at Carisbrooke Castle, where he thought the governor would be sympathetic towards him, but found himself a virtual prisoner. He tried to make peace with the Scots over church issues in the hope that they could restore him to the throne, but when the Scottish army crossed over into England in July 1648, they were defeated at Preston by Cromwell’s forces. Charles’s last hopes were dashed. On 6th December 1648 Colonel Thomas Pride set up a court to try the King and the following month Charles was brought to Westminster Hall in London to be tried for waging war against “Parliament and the Kingdom of England”. The charge described him as “a Tyrant, Traitor and Murderer”. With his belief in the Divine Right of Kings, Charles notoriously refused to accept the legality of the court and so did

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not defend himself or make a plea. This was taken to be an admission of guilt. He was found guilty by just one vote: 68 to 67 and was convicted of treason against the state and condemned to death. When he tried to speak out after the sentence had been pronounced, he was told that he was too late and he was led away by force. Colonel Pride’s coat of arms was stamped on the King’s death warrant.

On the eve of his execution Charles said farewell to his two youngest children, telling eight-year-old Henry, Duke of Gloucester, “They will cut off my head and perhaps make thee King, but mark what I say, you must not be King so long as your brothers Charles and James do live — for they will cut off your brothers’ heads if they catch them, and cut off thy head too, at last, and therefore I charge you: do not be made King by them!” It was a startling thing to say to such a young child. Remarkably the boy replied that he would be torn in pieces before he would be King. To his daughter, Elizabeth, Charles said that he was dying for the laws and liberties of the land, and for maintaining the true Protestant religion. On 30th January 1649 Charles rose early, saying that he had much to do and that by nightfall “I hope to be espoused to my blessed Jesus.” After Morning Prayer and receiving Holy Communion,

The trial of King Charles, with the King in the centre facing his accusers.

he was led from St. James’s Palace at 10 o’clock in the morning for the journey to Whitehall. As the procession reached Horse Guards Parade, Charles felt that the soldiers were walking too slowly and shouted for them to hurry up. A temporary scaffold had been placed outside the Banqueting House in Whitehall, but neither an executioner nor a block could be found, as the original executioner refused to behead his King. Eventually another man agreed to do the deed, on the proviso that he could wear a mask to hide his face from the crowds. Because of this delay, the King was kept waiting for several hours in the bitter cold of that January day. Even the River Thames had frozen over. He put on two shirts as he didn’t want to be seen shivering and have people think that it was through fear. The overshirt that he wore on that day is now preserved at Windsor Castle. Shortly before two o’clock in the afternoon, Charles was led through a window and onto the scaffold, where a very low block of only around 12 inches high had been placed. To the masked executioner he asked, “Does my hair trouble you?” Consequently, it was tucked out of the way under a cap. Turning to Bishop Juxon, the then Bishop of London, he said, “I have a good cause, and a gracious God on my side.” To which the bishop replied, “There is but one stage more, which, though turbulent and troublesome, yet it is a very short one; it will soon carry you a very great way. It will carry you from earth to heaven; and there you will find, to your great joy, the prize you hasten to. A crown of glory.” The King added, “Death is not terrible to me. I bless God that I am prepared. I go from a corruptible to an incorruptible crown, where no disturbance is, no disturbance in the world.” Handing the Bishop his St. George’s Emblem from the Order of the Garter, Charles urged him, “Remember.” After saying that he wished the block was a little higher, for it meant he had to lay almost flat to place his head upon it, the King said a few words of private prayer and then stretched out his hands to indicate that he was ready. The axe fell. Eyewitnesses recorded that there were shrieks, groans and sobs from the crowds in Whitehall. The English people were horrified by the King’s death and very soon many came to look upon him as a martyr. Due to the swiftness of events, no tomb had been prepared for the King and so Charles I was laid to rest alongside Henry VIII in a vault at St. George’s

Chapel, Windsor. In April 1813 this tomb was opened while work was being undertaken to enlarge a passage under the choir stalls and the vault was searched to ascertain that the royal coffins were still there and had not been destroyed by Cromwell’s men in earlier times. King George III’s physician, Sir Henry Halford, was present and has left a very detailed account of the opening of Charles I’s coffin, revealing that the face, pointed beard and the fact that the head was detached from the body left witnesses, which included the Prince Regent, in no doubt that it was indeed the remains of the Stuart monarch. The fourth cervical vertebra was loose, as a result of the executioner’s axe, and Halford kept this for himself along with other “relics”.

In 1888 a grandson of Sir Henry Halford returned these relics to the Prince of Wales (later Edward VII) in an ebony box. Queen Victoria gave permission for the vault to be opened once again and at 7pm on 13th December the prince laid the box on Charles I’s coffin. One unusual artefact is still retained in the Royal Collection, however, and that is a gold and enamel locket which contains some of Charles’s hair that was removed in 1813. Following the execution of King Charles I his eldest surviving son, Charles II, was declared King in name only. For the first and only time in history England became a republic, with Oliver Cromwell as Lord Protector. PAUL JAMES

A Great Englishman

I

t is with sadness that I have to report the death, on 12th December 2016, at the age of 88, of our magazine’s founder and long-time editor, Roy Faiers. Born in Cleethorpes in Lincolnshire in 1927, as a schoolboy during the war he was evacuated to Canada, joining the Royal Navy on his return and, while still in his teens, seeing service in the Far East. He gained his journalism experience as a reporter on the Grimsby Evening Telegraph, started his own news agency and worked as a sports reporter for the BBC. At the beginning of the 1960s he launched Lincolnshire Life, the first of many county magazines he published and which are still going strong, and in 1968 published the first issue of This England with the delightful slogan “as refreshing as a pot of tea”. The magazine quickly attracted a loyal readership all over the world, with subscribers enjoying the mixture of articles, poetry, colour photographs and Colin Carr illustrations, but also appreciating the underlying values that Mr. Faiers stamped on the magazine: decency, morality, love of country, respect for tradition, importance of family life etc. As well as celebrating England and her beautiful countryside, rich history, colourful customs and remarkable people, he also made sure that the magazine stood up for what he believed was right. A proud Lincolnshire “Yellowbelly”, he strived for the preservation of England’s traditional counties, promoted the celebration of St. George’s Day, ensured the magazine always had a strong Christian ethos, opposed enforced metrication and, perhaps most passionately of all, campaigned for the United Kingdom to leave the European Union. On a lighter

note, he also loved many of the popular singers and songs of the Twenties, Thirties and Forties, an infatuation he was able to indulge more fully when he launched our other magazine, Evergreen, in 1985. I was privileged to work alongside Roy Faiers for 25 years, trying to absorb as much of his knowledge and as many of his editing skills as I could: from planning the contents of the magazines and masterminding the various campaigns to ensuring each apostrophe was in the right place and every word was spelt correctly, nothing escaped his attention. Aside from magazine production, another of his qualities, and one from which I benefited in 1982, was his willingness to give young people a chance. For that, and for so much more, I will be forever grateful. All of us at This England are dedicated to continuing the work Roy Faiers began and to carry on producing publications that are interesting, attractive and uplifting, but which are not afraid to speak out when England and the English way of life are threatened. In the meantime, our thoughts and prayers are with our late great editor’s family and friends. STEPHEN GARNETT THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

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Plant of the Season CROCUS

by Rosemary Pettigrew

I

don’t like having trees cut down but there were two trees in my garden that were causing problems with their roots and excessive growth. We took the advice of tree surgeons who said that total removal was the best option. However, after two different companies let us down by failing to turn up, my husband said he was going to fell them himself. I expressly forbade him such foolhardy behaviour but when I returned from shopping one day the trees were down and fortunately my husband was still upright. He was very pleased with himself but it was an extremely reckless thing to do on his own, and with only limited protection. Seeing the garden without the trees was like being introduced to a stranger and indeed one I wasn’t sure I was going to like. But gradually I’ve got to know this changed landscape and can see the advantages it’s given to other plants in the garden. So I have almost a fresh canvas to work with this year — one with less shady areas and flower beds that hopefully will flourish better due to lack of competition from tree roots.

R J BEARD

DAVID HUNTER

Notes from a Cottage Garden

With their sumptuous hues, the appearance of crocuses (or croci) in the garden is a much welcome harbinger of spring. There are some 90 species of different sizes, shapes and colours and they have been popular garden plants for centuries. The usual flowering times are spring and autumn. Originating thousands of years ago in Asia and the Mediterranean, the popularity of the crocus gradually spread throughout the world. However, there was one species, Crocus sativus, that was particularly prized because its stigma were used to produce saffron, the world’s most

Attingham Park, Atcham, Shrewsbury, Shropshire SY4 4TP The Pleasure Grounds of this magnificent 18th-century house are being restored and there is a Mile Walk where swathes of snowdrops and spring flowers can now be seen.

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Blickling Hall, Blickling, Norwich, Norfolk NR11 6NF Carpets of bluebells can be enjoyed in the extensive acres of gardens and woodlands that surround this Jacobean house. Other attractions include an orangery, parterre, wilderness and secret garden.

Hardwick, Doe Lea, Chesterfield, Derbyshire S44 5QJ Built in the 16th century and boasting “more glass than wall”, the beautiful mansion is surrounded by parkland and gardens. Spring brings a succession of flowers including snowdrops, daffodils, aconites, iris and wood anemones.

NIGELLA COWEN

DAVID MUSCROFT

CHRIS HERRING

GRAHAM GOUGH

Gardens to Visit

Sizergh Castle, near Kendal, Westmorland LA8 8DZ One of the longest familyinhabited houses in the country, this medieval property boasts superb gardens that have a wide range of springtime interest from tulips in the formal garden to cherry blossom in the orchard and wild flowers in the meadow.

expensive spice. This autumn-flowering crocus triggered disputes, wars and made and lost fortunes such was the demand for saffron’s flavouring, colouring and medicinal properties. In fact the name crocus comes from the Latin meaning saffron yellow. In Europe the popularity of saffron escalated dramatically during the Black Death (1347 – 50) as saffron was used as a medicine to combat the plague. During this time the growing of saffron crocuses in England developed particularly in Essex where the light soil provided perfect growing conditions. Today the Essex town of Saffron Walden acknowledges the town’s heritage as a centre for saffron by including the crocus in the town’s crest. I have a large number of Dutch crocuses (Crocus vernus) growing in the garden and I planted more this autumn. They have large gobletshaped flowers and are very easy to grow. I like them naturalised in grass but you do have to wait until the foliage has died before mowing to ensure good blooms for the following year. Plant in the autumn and ensure each corm has its “nose” upwards at a depth of about 4 inches deep. Cover with earth and then water. Divide clumps every 5 years or so.

‘I must have flowers, always, and always.’ — Claude Monet (1840 – 1926) ‘ A garden is a grand teacher. It teaches patience and careful watchfulness; it teaches industry and thrift; above all it teaches entire trust.’ — Gertrude Jekyll (1843 – 1932) ‘The more help a person has in his garden, the less it belongs to him.’ — W. H. Davies (1871 – 1940) Please see our Fragrant Rose Queen Elizabeth offer on page 89.

‘To Do’ List a Plant trees Having removed two trees I feel I should put two back. However, I will choose smaller trees more suitable for the size of the garden and site them well away from paths and borders. Possibilities are Sorbus hupehensis “Pink Pagoda” (a type of rowan with all-year interest and lovely pink berries) and Acer griseum (also known as the paperbark maple which has attractive coppery-brown peeling bark). a Resite the greenhouse My greenhouse is in an odd position and access is difficult. Many of the panes are now cracked and leaking and need replacing. So I have had the idea of repositioning it nearer to the vegetable patch and replacing all the very thin glass with safety glass. However, this will require building a new concrete base, carefully taking apart each section of the greenhouse and then reassembling it in hopefully the right order. My husband is not keen on this idea! a Divide snowdrops I have some large clumps of snowdrops that I will lift and divide up and then replant in different parts of the garden. I’m going to concentrate particularly on the clumps nearest my garden fence as the snowdrops tend to spread next door rather than into my garden. a War on moles The lovely flat lawn that we spent a lot of time and effort on constructing is now a sea of molehills. The last time I had this problem I followed the tips readers sent in and the problem disappeared. However, this latest mole is immune to garlic, windmills and the like and I am having murderous thoughts because of the amount of damage it is causing. a Seed sowing If my greenhouse project goes ahead this will limit the seeds I can sow early as I’ll have to make do with cloches and windowsills. I’m going to stick to my tried and tested favourites such as cosmos for the flower garden and peas and runner beans for the vegetable garden. a Plan new border The loss of the trees have given me the opportunity to plan a new herbaceous flower bed. However, I’ve got some hard work to do first, digging out the tree roots! I would be delighted to receive your comments, questions and advice, so please e-mail me at [email protected] or write to our editorial office: This England, The Lypiatts, Lansdown Road, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire GL50 2JA. THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

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The Glorious River Thames

At 215 miles in length the iconic waterway has long been a source of transport, trade and inspiration. It makes its way through five counties — Gloucestershire, Wiltshire, Oxfordshire, Buckinghamshire and Berkshire — and into London

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ld Father Thames may not be the United Kingdom’s longest river, that accolade belongs to the River Severn, but it is the most significant with a rich vein of historic buildings, cultural connections and landmarks from start to finish. The story of the Thames started over 30 million years ago when it was a tributary of the River Rhine — Britain was not an island at that time. Then, 10,000 years ago during the Great Ice Age, the Thames changed its course, pushing its eager way through the Chiltern Hills at the place now known as the Goring Gap. At that time, the fast flowing river was 10 times its current size, fuelled by melting ice sheets. Then its rapid progress slowed down and by 3,000 years ago the river had settled into its familiar meandering pattern that we know today. From the 1600s to the early 1800s frost fairs were held on the river. At that time, it would often freeze over for up to two months at a time because Britain was in the throes of the “Little Ice Age”. The other reason for freezing over was because London Bridge and its piers were so close together that pieces of ice would get lodged between them and dam up the river, so making it easier to freeze. The frost fairs were the whole colourful shebang, with entertainers, food stalls, coach races, puppet plays and even a pop-up pub or two. The ice was so thick that football matches were held and, quite bizarrely, shopkeepers would light fires inside their tents! Probably the most famous frost fair was that held in the winter of 1683/1684. It was known as the “Blanket Fair” and was described by diarist John Evelyn: “… horse and coach races, puppet plays and interludes, cookes, tipling and other lewd places, so that it seemed a bacchanalian triumph or

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carnival on the water, whilst it was a severe judgement on the land, the trees not onely splitting as if lightning-struck, but men and cattle perishing in divers[e] places, and the very seas so lock’d up with ice, that no vessels could stir out or come in.” The monarch of the day King Charles II didn’t want to miss out on any fun and came along to this fair. While there, so history tells us, he enjoyed eating roasted ox. Of course, during the fairs, perhaps not surprisingly there was the occasional disaster when chunks of ice broke and people drowned. The last frost fair, although the largest and starring a parading elephant, only lasted five days. By then climate changes meant winters were becoming far less severe. There are 45 locks on the river: the first is St. John’s Lock near Lechlade in Gloucestershire and the last is at Teddington in Middlesex. Each lock has one or more adjacent weirs which are used for controlling the flow of water down the river, most notably when there is a flood risk. Most locks are operated by keepers between 9am and 7pm during the summer months with shorter hours in other seasons. However, Teddington Lock, which separates the long Kingston reach of the non-tidal river from Hampton Court to the

Did you know? Around 119 different species of fish inhabit the River Thames. Some creatures that call the river their home include otters, river voles and European eels. Westminster Bridge is painted the same shade of green as the leather benches in the House of Commons.

Did you know? Handel’s Water Music was first played on George I’s barge in the Thames in 1717. Apparently the King enjoyed it so much that he ordered the 50 tired musicians to play the suites three times. The Thames has been the inspiration for artists including French Impressionist Claude Monet (1840-1926) who obviously couldn’t get enough of the river as he painted it three times. His most famous work of art was “The Thames Below Westminster”. DOROTHY BURROWS

PAUL I. MAKEPEACE

Opposite page: Boats on the river on a misty autumn day at Pangbourne in the Chilterns. JIM HELLIER Above: A statue of Old Father Thames at Lechlade in Gloucestershire; the source of the River Thames at Seven Springs in the Cotswolds. Right: The lock-keeper’s cottage at Goring Lock, Oxfordshire. Below: A quiet corner of the river at Mapledurham in Oxfordshire, with the water mill reflected in the water; Chelsea Bridge and Battersea Power Station.

JIM HELLIER

tideway, is manned 24 hours a day. The locks at the upper end of the river, from St. John’s Lock to King’s Lock, are manually operated while all other locks are hydraulically operated. Locks and weirs break the river up into reaches, some of which host regattas and other events, and in the days when boats were horse-drawn a towpath was needed on the bank side. This formed the basis for the Thames Path which runs between the source and mouth of the river. Since 1984 the World Poohsticks Championship, a quirky, typically English event, has been held at Day’s Lock near Dorchester-on-Thames in Oxfordshire. This game, first mentioned in A. A. Milne’s book The House at Pooh Corner, is where contestants drop a stick from a bridge into the water and whoever’s stick appears on the other side of the bridge

ROY J. WESTLAKE

first is the winner. Any players who throw their sticks are disqualified. It is all taken very seriously. Many of the present road bridges over the river are on the sites of earlier fords, ferries and wooden structures. Hampton Court Bridge, the furthest west, is only just within the Greater London boundary while the furthest east, Tower Bridge, is practically in the centre of London. The most recent is the Millennium Bridge which spans the river between the Tate Modern Gallery and St. Paul’s, while the first bridge was built by the Romans almost 2,000 years ago near the spot where London Bridge is now. Waterloo Bridge, which was built mostly by women, is the longest at 1,250 feet. Several central London bridges were built in the 19th century including Tower Bridge, designed to allow ocean-going

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‘THE GLORIOUS RIVER THAMES’ (continued)

Left: The view over London towards Hungerford Bridge and Waterloo Bridge. VB JAMES McCORMICK

Below: One of the most easily recognisable buildings on the banks of the Thames: the Houses of Parliament. In 2017 the famous chimes of Big Ben will fall silent for several months as much-needed repairs are carried out.

ships to pass beneath it. At Folly Bridge in Oxford the remains of an original Saxon structure can be seen while medieval structures including Newbridge and Abingdon Bridge are still in use. Proposals to build bridges across the river at Lambeth and Putney around 1670 were defeated by the Rulers of the Company of Watermen, since it would have spelled ruin for the 60,000 rivermen who provided a pool of naval reserve. As for the tunnels, there are eight under the river. The world’s first underwater tunnel was the Thames Tunnel built by Marc Brunel and it was fitted out with lighting, roadways and spiral staircases. An engine house on the Rotherhithe side, which now houses the Brunel Museum, was constructed to house machinery for draining the tunnel which was opened to the public on 25th March 1843. It proved to be a hugely popular tourist attraction and when it opened 50,000 people waited to pay a penny to climb down the stairs and walk through it. By the

Did you know? In 1888 swimmer Jules Gautier — something of an exhibitionist it has to be said — swam three and a half miles from Westminster Bridge to Greenwich with his wrists and feet tied. A few years later, he swam it again from Putney to Mortlake while “towing a boat licensed to carry eight persons”. Kenneth Grahame (1859-1932), who lived in the village of Pangbourne on the riverbanks, wrote The Wind in the Willows. The River Thames has played its part in famous films: Indiana Jones raced along it, Harry Potter had a broomstick chase there and James Bond sped past MI6 HQ in a speedboat. Not that high-speed rides are exclusive to Bond. London Rib Voyages allow passengers to see many of the city’s famous landmarks while whizzing along the river on a speedboat. 

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end of the first three months a million people, or half the population of London, had visited, buying souvenirs and listening to the entertainment in the cross-tunnel arches. By the 1600s, people began to understand that the pollution of London’s most vital water source was a problem. No one really knew what to do about it and the people of the city continued to use the Thames as both a water source and a rubbish bin, making a bad situation even worse. In essence, the River Thames was an open sewer and had the dubious distinction of being the world’s most unhygienic river. The matter eventually came to a head in the hot summer of 1858 when the sewage started to ferment and the “Great Stink” had everyone clutching handkerchiefs to their noses. It was so horrible that sittings at the House of Commons had to be abandoned even though they tried blocking the windows with curtains doused in chloride of lime to try to get rid of the smell. Then Joseph Bazalgette came to the rescue. He was the chief engineer of London’s Metropolitan Board of Works and developed the biggest sewage system the world had ever seen. The new invention pumped the sewage eastwards out to sea and the flow of foul water from old sewers and underground rivers was intercepted and diverted along new, low-level sewers, built behind embankments on the riverfront and taken to new treatment works. The system, instrumental in relieving the city from cholera epidemics while beginning the cleansing of the river, is still in use today. GILLY PICKUP

The Day We Opened Tower Bridge

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n August 2015 my husband and I were lucky enough to be guests of the Master of Tower Bridge. On a wonderful sunny day, with his special dispensation, we were invited into one of the four control cabins on Tower Bridge. It was very interesting to be high above the river and we actually spotted a seal with an eel in its mouth from this great viewing place. The sun sparkled on the river where many boats and tugs sailed up and down, and we saw hundreds of people on the bridge and along the sides of the rolling water. We were shown the various controls in the cabin by the chief technician, who was very knowledgeable and helpful. We were also allowed into the majestic engine room and then the huge, atmospheric bascule chamber, which is down many steep steps. There was a large cruise ship due in, and at the appropriate time we watched with mounting anticipation as the bridge was cleared and made ready to be lifted.

To our delight, but rather scary surprise, the chief technician asked us if we would like to work the controls to open the bridge. He had already pointed out the various buttons that needed to be pushed in sequence, and the final lever that completed this famous task. We couldn’t believe that we would be officiating. On the cabin’s radio we heard the captain of the ship saying they would be sailing through as arranged, and verifying permission, which was granted. The cruise ship, with its pilot ship in front, was by then in sight. My husband, John, was told when to push the appropriate buttons by the chief technician who was standing close by. I watched in awe as the bridge began the glorious five-minute lifting manoeuvre. For the last minute, I was allowed to hold and gently lift the lever to complete the opening. I am 70 years old and, wow!, I never thought that I would do that. It was incredible! I feel honoured to have had

such an experience. The guests on the ship were waving and the crowds were cheering as the great ship sailed through. I felt so proud to be British. The bridge is lifted on average 15 times a week and you can look on the website to find out when. Everyone can visit “The Tower Bridge Exhibition”, where you can go on the recently installed glass-bottomed walkway and look out at wonderful views of London. You can also see the prodigious Victorian engine rooms. Tower Bridge was built 120 years ago, and 40,000 people go over it every day: motorists, cyclists and pedestrians. It is a truly great icon of England, well worth going to see. JENNY TYLER

Further Information Tower Bridge, Tower Bridge Road, London SE1 2UP Tel: 020 74033761 www.towerbridge.org.uk

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Meeting

JEFF MORGAN 15/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

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hen Matthew Pritchett first started submitting topical cartoons to the Daily Telegraph, the paper was still ensconced in its beautiful Grade II-listed art deco headquarters in Fleet Street. Pritchett was fresh out of art school — Saint Martin’s — and had decided to try his luck as a self-employed cartoonist. “You didn’t have to interview well, or dress well, to be successful,” he told me. “But you needed to be able to tell a good joke.” He laboured for a couple of years as a freelancer, placing cartoons in magazines like Punch, the New Statesman and the Spectator until the Telegraph offered him a full-time job in 1988. “Someone in the accounting office realised they would practically save themselves money if they put me on the payroll,” he said. By this point his cartoons “were showing up in various corners of the paper, including the Sunday edition”. Since then he has hand-crafted nearly 10,000 cartoons for the Telegraph, and in 2018 will celebrate his 30th anniversary with the paper. Pritchett, known to his many fans as “Matt”, joined the paper shortly after it ditched Fleet Street for an office tower in the Docklands. More recently the paper has operated out of a sleek, glass-encased complex in Buckingham Palace Road next to Victoria Station. There is something rather telling about the Telegraph’s journey from EC4 to SE16 to SW1. Back when Matt was a freelancer, some journalists were still using manual typewriters. Today, everything is digital.

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There should be “some sort of compromise between the old ways of doing things,” he muses, “and the constant pressure to produce fresh content.” Technology can help keep quality broadsheets in business, he suggests, “as long as the technology is easy to use. Here’s the Telegraph — click once. An online paper is cheaper to produce — no ink, no drivers, and no printing presses. But you have to make things as easy as possible.” Matt and I recently chatted about newspapers, cartoons and current events over Earl Grey at the Telegraph office. He has an easy laugh, an affable manner, and a fondness for old films, the Muppets, Parks and Recreation, and Second World War documentaries. “I can’t bear comedy that wants to tell you how clever it is,” he says. “You must never forget to be silly.” His own goal is to “understand the news and then do something silly with it”. Growing up, he and his sister Georgina were encouraged at dinner to “tell a story about our day. The idea was to make everyone laugh.” He still tells funny stories, but he is not one of those compulsive joke-tellers who rattles off one-liners and never lets anyone else finish their sentences. The storytelling gene seems to run in the family. Their paternal grandfather, V.S. Pritchett CBE (1900-1997), was a prominent short-story writer, essayist and memoirist, while their father, Oliver Pritchett, is a successful newspaper columnist and satirist. Their mother, Joan Pritchett, is the author of numerous non-fiction books about animals and rural life in England; for many years she wrote under a pseudonym, Josephine Howarth. Her books include Horsemasters: The Secret to Understanding Horses (1983), The Country Habit (1987), Not All Grannies Knit (2007), and, most recently, An Inconvenient Dog (2016). Meanwhile, Georgina Pritchett has become an established comedic writer for television whose credits include The Lenny Henry Show, Miranda, Tracey Ullman’s Show and Veep. (“Thank God my sister can’t draw!”, her brother jokes.) Matt’s two eldest children are at art school, and they are starting to create their own comics. He confesses that he is “…living through them to some extent. Their work is a bit feminist, and looks current.” Matt’s own work is neither avant-garde nor old-fashioned. He excels at creating deceptively simple, one-panel cartoons

that are of their time but timeless. He starts not with the image but the punchline. “Once I have the joke,” he explains, “I work on the drawing. I always know that it will work if I have a good joke.” “What has changed most over time,” he says, is not his technique but “my news sense — after doing it for so long you learn what is important about the story.” As the Telegraph’s resident “pocket cartoonist” his readily identifiable cartoons often appear on the front page, but not always. He has “a good memory for jokes” but “sometimes worries about whether someone else has told the joke before.” When it comes to comedy he says: “I don’t want to get too cute, and I don’t want to tell too many husband-and-wife jokes. I try to avoid having two people respond to something they have seen as they walk by a newsstand. That’s been done to death. I’m not good at caricature, and feet are impossible to draw.” I asked Matt if he was indebted to the tradition of English satirical printmakers like James Gillray, Thomas Rowlandson and George Cruikshank, but he politely demurred. Many of his favourite cartoonists, it turns out, are associated with the weekly New Yorker magazine — gifted mid-century commercial artists like James Thurber, Peter Arno, Lee Lorenz and Charles Addams. He describes their cartooning as “the pinnacle of the art form”. He praises the work of Gary Larson (“Farside”) and also that of Bryan McAllister, the post-war cartoonist whose minimalistic cartoons still occasionally appear in the Observer. He has nice things to say about the French cartoonist and children’s book artist Jean-Jacques Sempé, who usually goes by the name Sempé, and who has recently been drawing cover illustrations for the New Yorker. He similarly recommends the work of a twenty-something political cartoonist who publishes under the one-word alias “Bob” and who was recently hired by the Telegraph.

Matt insists that he has “absolutely no interest in producing a graphic novel” but admits that “a long time ago I did a cover for a magazine” and says that “I’d be interested in doing more of those.” When it comes to cartooning, the important thing to keep in mind, he emphasises, is that space is at a premium. On the one hand “you have to squeeze a ton of information into such a small amount of space”, but on the other hand “you don’t want readers to have to overthink things. It’s a tricky issue.” Matthew Pritchett has received numerous honours and awards for his cartooning. He was awarded an MBE in 2002, and the following year the Observer included him in their list of the country’s 50 funniest people. He has been named Cartoonist of the Year by the British Press Association no fewer than five times — 1996, 1998, 2000, 2008 and 2009 — and he received the Cartoon Art Trust’s Pocket Cartoonist of the Year award in 1995, 1996, 2005 and 2013. In addition, Granada TV’s What the Papers Say Awards named him Cartoonist of the Year in 1992. While newspaper cartoons are often said to be ephemeral, hundreds of Matt’s cartoons have been reprinted in book collections and, more recently, day planners. At this point his gentle one-liners and delightful linework have become an integral part of the Telegraph’s brand. More than a decade ago, an art editor at the paper told him that they could start to run his cartoons in colour, but he quickly shut down the discussion. “Colour often makes cartoons look a bit childish,” he suggests, “and I much prefer to work in black-and-white.” When I asked him how he keeps things fresh, he joked, “four children and distractions”. He then paused, and admitted that “the advantage of doing topical cartoons is that there’s always something new to respond to. You have to be aware of what’s going on around you. I survive by being optimistic. Things can get better. It’s easy to fall into the trap of thinking that everything was better in the past. I generally adhere to a kind of dogged optimism.” KENT WORCESTER Matt Cartoon © Telegraph Media Group Limited

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St. James’s Church, with the cross of St. George fluttering in the breeze. DOROTHY BURROWS

Aspects of English Towns

Wetherby, Yorkshire History and Hospitality on the Great North Road

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etherby is a small market town in the West Riding of Yorkshire, centred in the triangle of Leeds, York and Harrogate. It stands on the twisting, winding River Wharfe and has for centuries been a crossing place and staging post on the A1 Great North Road, the longest numbered road in the United Kingdom at 410 miles. Wetherby is midway between London and Edinburgh, amazingly lying exactly 198 miles from each of the two great capital cities. It is no wonder it became a favourite stopping-off point. The 2001 Census gave a population of around 11,000, although this is likely to have increased with recent house building. Appropriately, as the town is noted as a staging post, my wife and I pitched

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up here one Friday night, uninvited and unannounced. We were looking for a place to stay the night, a stop-over on a long journey from Dorset to the North Yorkshire Moors. We hadn’t booked anywhere. It was that tried and tested strategy of drive and see how far you get and where you end up. Archaeological evidence suggests that the area was inhabited from at least Neolithic times. Bronze Age finds have also been recorded in villages around Wetherby. The town was also an important Roman settlement and it is believed that it was the Romans who began the tradition of horse racing in this area, racing Arab horses at a place called “Netherby”, a few miles upstream from Wetherby itself.

Historically Wetherby was a part of the “Wapentake of Skyrack”. A “wapentake” was a Norse term for a meeting place, at a crossroads or river, whilst “skyrack” is believed to come from an old English term meaning “shire oak”. Wetherby is mentioned in the Domesday Book as “Wedrebi“, thought to derive from “Wether” (ram farm), or else meaning “settlement on the bend of a river”. Local folklore has it that when heavy snowstorms hit the county, Wetherby does not get as much because the “Weather goes by”, which sounds like the proverbial “old wives’ tail”! Wetherby Bridge, which spans the River Wharfe, is a Scheduled Ancient Monument and a Grade II listed structure, dating back over 750 years. As a result of its situation on the Great North Road, a large number of coaching inns were established in Wetherby, and many are still used today by travellers. In the heyday of the coaching era, Wetherby had up to 40 inns and alehouses, the first recorded mail coach arriving here in 1786. Turning up here tired and hungry on a Friday evening, at least we could feel that we were following tradition; always a reassuring feeling. In 1240 the Knights Templar, one of the most famous of western Christian military orders, were granted by Royal Charter of Henry III the right to hold a market in Wetherby (known then as Werreby). The charter stated the market should be held on a Thursday and a yearly fair was also permitted lasting three days over the day of St. James the Apostle, which falls on 25th July, the feast day when pilgrims visit his grave at Santiago de Compostela in Spain. Engagingly the historic Thursday market is still a fixture of the town’s calendar. Wetherby’s position on the route north did not always work in its favour as the North of England suffered many raids from the Scots. After the Battle of Bannockburn in 1314, Wetherby was burned and many people taken and killed. On 19th February 1408 there was a battle at Bramham Moor, south of Wetherby, in which Henry Percy, the 1st Earl of Northumberland, attempted to unseat King Henry IV, for which he paid with defeat and death. Wetherby also had a small part to play in the English Civil War in 1644. Before marching to Tadcaster and then to overwhelming victory at Marston Moor, the Parliamentarians spent two days in the town while joining forces with the

Waterfront apartments by the Weir.

Scots. Oliver Cromwell probably spent the night after the battle at the original Half Moon Inn at Collingham, just three miles from Wetherby. The “Grand Old Duke of York” of nursery rhyme fame is popularly held to have been Prince Frederick, Duke of York and Albany (1763–1827), the second son of King George III and Commander-in-Chief of the British Army during both the French Revolutionary Wars and the Napoleonic Wars. In 1789 he left his home at Allerton Mauleverer near Wetherby, to be with his troops in the south of England. The “hill” in question is reputed to be the town of Cassel, which rises 570 feet above the otherwise flat terrain of Flanders. The Duke of Devonshire built The Shambles in 1811 as 10 butchers shops, which were only to open on market day. In 1888 they were converted to a covered market where farmers brought their produce to trade. The present facade was added early in the 20th century. Wetherby used to be amongst the chattels of the Dukes of Devonshire. This was until 1824 when William George Spencer Cavendish, the 6th Duke, also known as the “Bachelor Duke”, disposed of this particular bit of real estate, selling the town of Wetherby, with the exception of just one house, to finance work at his great family home at Chatsworth. As well as selling off towns, the 6th Duke

PETER HERRING

was also heavily into bananas. The world’s most commercially exploited banana, the “Cavendish”, was named in honour of the Duke, who acquired an early specimen, which he raised in his glasshouse. There was to be no respite from the exigencies of war even in the 20th century. Many Wetherby men served with either the 5th or 9th West Yorkshire Regiments, who suffered great losses in Flanders during the First World War. A war memorial designed by E. F. Roslyn was dedicated on 22nd April 1922. In 1918 the citizens of Wetherby contributed greatly to support the crew of the minesweeper HMS Wetherby despite hardship and shortages caused by the war. During the Second World War, RAF Tockwith, to the east of Wetherby, was renamed RAF Marston Moor to avoid confusion with RAF Topcliffe in North Yorkshire. Part of the airfield is now used as a driver training centre and the old control tower is used as the offices. Parts of the runways can still be seen. Heartthrob of the American silver screen, Clark Gable, was stationed at Marston Moor during the Second World War as a member of the USAAF ground staff, with the rank of Captain. Group Captain Leonard Cheshire VC was also stationed at Marston Moor for a short while. Although Wetherby unusually does not have a museum, the town council has for some years commissioned blue

plaques to highlight buildings and sites of interest around the town, for example St. James’s Church and the impressive Town Hall. St James’s is actually not that old, the first stones being laid by a local man, Quentin Rhodes, on 1st April 1839. Rhodes made a significant contribution to the £4,000 initial cost of building St. James’s, raised by subscriptions from local people. The church was completed in 1841 and extended later in the century. Wetherby Town Hall stands in the centre of the Market Square and replaced the former Court House and Wetherby Prison. It cost £1,300 and was also paid for by public subscription. The Town Hall has had many varied uses. It was famous as the venue for the Wetherby Statute Fairs, held every November, for the hiring of local servants on a day usually observed as a general holiday. In the inter-war years the Town Hall dances were important social events. There is a significant manufacturing presence both in the town and on a nearby trading estate. The most notable company to emerge from Wetherby is Goldenfry, originally a Wetherby fish and chip shop but now a diversification success, especially with its own brand gravy, where every UK supermarket “own brand” is actually manufactured by Goldenfry. The company employs 300 staff on a modern site opened in 1999. Interestingly another major employer is none other than the British Library,  THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

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‘ASPECTS OF ENGLISH TOWNS’ (continued)

Above: The Shambles, dating from 1811. Top right: The Town Hall in the Market Square. Bottom right: An inn for more than 400 years: The Swan & Talbot.

which has a document storage centre and reading room at nearby Boston Spa, a town renowned for its fine Georgian architecture. Considering that a lot of Wetherby folk work in Leeds today, it is a great regret and another classic piece of shortsightedness that the railway in Wetherby was closed in 1964. Had the line to Leeds still been in existence today, it no doubt would have been very popular with commuters, as well as providing a convenient way of getting to the racecourse. The closure of the cattle market in the 1990s and its replacement by a combination of apartments and a major retail store illustrate the changing face of Wetherby, which is no longer a small rural town but a growing town situated firmly within the Leeds commuter belt.

In spite of out-of-town development, the town centre still possesses a number of interesting small shops selling a variety of goods and a selection of teashops and restaurants. There is also a monthly farmers’ market, which started in 2001. Wetherby does not have much of a sporting claim to fame, except perhaps for its National Hunt racecourse, which has been in use since 1891 and is the only racecourse in Yorkshire which is used exclusively for jump racing. The River Wharfe provides a focal point for relaxation, with attractive riverside walks and a bandstand, which was built as recently as 2000 by volunteers and public subscription. Also, hidden away in the centre of Wetherby is a peaceful wooded triangle of disused railway line that is enjoyed by walkers, cyclists and wildlife.

Fishing in the River Wharfe at Thorp Arch near Wetherby.

JOHN EDENBROW

Wetherby is the starting point for the Great Yorkshire Bike Ride. This is an annual event held every June. The 70mile ride starts at Wetherby Racecourse and ends on the coast at Filey. The event has raised nearly £2 million for charity since starting in 1984. Returning to the theme of “passing through” I should relate that following a hearty breakfast we found good reason to delay our departure from this sweet little town and conduct an exploration. A walk through the town to the River Wharfe was rewarded with splendid views from the vicinity of the old bridge. Walking back into the town, the architecture around the Market Square, with the Town Hall and Shambles prominent presented worthwhile photo’ opportunities, and reaching St James’s we were delighted to find the church fair in full swing. The locals were out in force, thronging the stalls on a sunny morning. If you just need a one-night stop-over as we did, or you need to base yourself somewhere for a few days to explore this part of Yorkshire, then you could do a lot worse than Wetherby. As a lover of tradition I was overjoyed to have bivouacked in a town such as this, following so surely in the footsteps (or carriage wheels) of thousands upon thousands before. STEVE ROBERTS

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I

EXPLORE ENGLAND 2017

f you love England, the English countryside, English history and English customs and traditions, you will not want to be without the latest edition of Explore England. Although packed with ideas for places to visit and perfect for helping you plan some memorable days out, the 100-page collection of fascinating articles (published for the first time) and beautiful colour photographs can be enjoyed just as much from the comfort of your armchair. And such is the wide variety of subjects covered, all carefully planned and put together by the same editorial team that produces This England and Evergreen, we are confident that Explore England will continue to be of interest far beyond 2017.

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HIGHLIGHTS INCLUDE:

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WALKING THE HARDY WAY: A leisurely ramble along the long-distance path, visiting many of the places associated with the great Wessex novelist and poet, with stunning photographs of the glorious Dorset countryside.

•

MOST UNUSUAL MUSEUMS: A look at some of England’s quirkiest museums, where everything from pencils and packaging to lawnmowers and clay pipes are celebrated.

•

BY TRAIN TO THE SEASIDE: We hop aboard a steam train on the West Somerset Railway and travel back in time to a more leisurely age.

•

THE MANY FACES OF SOUTHWOLD: Colourful beach huts, an imposing lighthouse and a curious character called Southwold Jack are encountered during a visit to the Suffolk resort.

Softback, 100 pages.

• •SMUGGLERS, WRECKERS AND PIECES OF EIGHT: Steeped in maritime history, along the coast of Cornwall every cove and creek has an exciting story to tell.

ENGLAND’S FURTHEST FRONTIER: Following in the footsteps of the Romans we tramp along Hadrian’s Wall, hearing many entertaining stories along the way.

Just £6.99 to UK overseas £9.99. US $20; Can $21; Aus $22; NZ $26.

As in previous years there is a useful region-by-region section providing information about places to go in each county, a useful diary of events throughout the year and numerous other illustrated features covering castles, stately homes, gardens and the men and women who left their mark on England and the English way of life. Please order now for delivery in March 2017. Code: TXP17

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Are you haunted by a few lines from a poem and want help in finding the rest of the words? Do you have a favourite verse you’d like to share with us? Or have you been writing poetry for years and would like others to read your work? If the answer is “Yes” to any of these questions please write to me, Susan Kelleher, at This England, The Lypiatts, Lansdown Road, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire, GL50 2JA, or email [email protected]

a few of the many poets whose work is included. I have selected this poem by Michael Henry on one of London’s most famous churches. ST. MARTIN IN THE FIELD

I

recently sat in a local restaurant enjoying a pizza. Nothing unusual in that except I was surrounded by stained glass, an organ and altar rails as this pizza parlour had formerly been a church. The pizza ovens were right in front of the altar space and I felt uncomfortable and indeed guilty. Much as I approve of redundant churches being given a new lease of life rather than crumble into ruin, I am saddened that religion means so little today. Soon after my pizza experience a new book entitled Building Jerusalem: Elegies on

Parish Churches arrived on my desk for review and I was instantly captivated by this anthology (Bloomsbury, hardback, £16.99). Edited by Kevin J. Gardner, a world expert on the work of Sir John Betjeman, it is a superb selection of poems on English churches that invoke both the beauty of what we have and poignancy of what we have lost. Philip Larkin, U. A. Fanthorpe, C. Day-Lewis, Simon Armitage, Ted Hughes, Andrew Motion, Fleur Adcock, Rowan Williams and Sir John Betjeman are just

The distinctive spire of St Martin-in-the-Fields is a landmark in the heart of London. It is a thriving church that serves a diverse community and is known as the “Church of the Ever Open Door”. See poem this page. ADINA TOVY

It was a world of brown holland of Miss Havishams and Estellas until poverty was diverted from the reading rooms of libraries — an unofficial congregation sleeps out full forty winks of prayer touching reassurance in the oaken pews remembering when life was new and Sunday-smelling — secular sermons to “Mind your wallet. Do not leave unattended valuables ...” the Church’s treasure is a dish of sunlight that streams in through the unstained glass — there is that rustling noise of silence shuffling conversation and newspapers taking little liberties with God — this is the pit shift St Martin in the Field field grey down the tunnel of a gun.

A

nother book I’ve received is the work of This England reader Arthur Baskerville who was born in Cheshire in 1938. Arthur has always been interested in writing and has had both poetry and short stories published. Making Tracks (Downland Press, Owls’ Castle, Easton Common Hill, Winterslow, Wiltshire SP5 1QD, paperback, £5.95) is a collection of poems that are a lifetime’s observations encompassed in a wide variety of form and style ranging from witty and humorous to wistful and thoughtful. Here are two of his poems that I am sure will provoke a fellow feeling in many readers.

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THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

TXTNG I hvnt reli lrnd 2 txt In fct it mks me fele kwite vxt Its hrd 2 fnd wch key 2 press How mny x? dnt nid ths strss. Hld phne in 1 hnd, u joke I cnot ews a thum so poke Wth ndx fngr kerflie As strn th lit up scrn 2 c Bt avin writ th mssge clere I try 2 snd it now frm ere Cmpose phne no nd prss snd Th scrn tho irrtate no end 4 it say now yr mssge faled So i gve up will gt it maled

HENRY II

JOHN

HENRY III

EDWARD I

EDWARD II

HENRY IV

HENRY VIII

EDWARD VI

GRANDCHILDREN’S VISIT After you’d all left I wandered through the silent garden and wood as darkness fell; Followed the footprints and sledge lines in the snow, Recognised each child’s foot and heard again the banter and laughter of your play, Felt the familiar wistful pang of loss. Next day in the frost I stood once more among your footprints, Their white dimpled sole patterns a frozen memorial to a joyful afternoon. So too the following day, and the next, Until at lasting the creeping thaw melted and blurred each one. But the memories, freeze-branded in my mind, remain crisp and sharp.

NEW REQUESTS

V

al Whitehead from Bristol asked help tracing a poem about the order of the kings and queens of England. At first I thought it was the one I learnt at school many years ago which begins “William, William, Harry, Ste” but it is actually this one:

Some of the monarchs associated with Bridgnorth in Shropshire are depicted in stained-glass windows in the town hall. A mnemonic for the correct order of kings and queens has been requested by a reader. DAVID HUNTER First William the Norman, Then William his son, Henry, Stephen, Henry, Then Richard and John. Next Henry the Third, Edwards One, Two and Three, And again after Richard, Three Henrys we see. Two Edwards, Third Richard, If rightly I guess, Two Henrys, Sixth Edward, Queen Mary, Queen Bess. Then Jamie the Scotsman, And Charles whom they slew, Yet received after Cromwell, Another Charles too. Next James the Second Acceded the Throne, Then good William and Mary, Together came on. Not till Anne, Georges Four, And Fourth William all passed, Came the reign of Victoria, Whose longest did last. Then Edward the Peacemaker, (He was her son), The fifth of the Georges, Was next in the run. Edward the Eighth, Gave the Crown to his brother, Now God’s sent Elizabeth, All of us love her.

Another poem that I have been able to trace was requested by Stuart Vince who remembered a few lines from a poem that he thought was entitled “Dunkirk 1940”. This is a poem written by the Welsh poet Idris Davies.

The little ships, the little ships Rushed out across the sea To save the luckless armies From death and slavery. From Tyne and Thames and Tamar, From the Severn and the Clyde, The little ships, the little ships, Went out in all their pride. And home they brought their warriors, Weary and ragged and worn, Back to the hills and shires And towns where they were born. Three hundred thousand warriors, From hell to home they came, In the little ships, the little ships Of everlasting fame.

Born in the town of Rhymney, Monmouthshire, Idris Davies worked as a miner from the age of 14. When the mine closed he educated himself so that he could train as a teacher and while teaching in London he became good friends with Dylan Thomas. Davies published his first volume of poetry in 1938 and perhaps his most famous poem is “The Bells of Rhymney”, a tribute to his home town. This request from Jane Uff (“Ola”, 47 Old Castle Road, Rodwell, Weymouth, Dorset DT4 8QE) has defeated me and I wonder if any readers can help? Jane would love to know the complete version of the Lord’s Prayer expressed in the names of Underground stations. She knows that it ends “ ... for Esher and Esher, Crouch End”! THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

35

Monarch of the Seas

Memories of the QE2

T

CUNARD

he QE2 story is a timeless chronicle of an iconic ship, launched by Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II on 20th September 1967, which became far more than a symbol of ocean-liner travel and a testament to elegance and style. She exudes history and has encountered war, hurricanes, 95-foot waves, uncharted reefs, engine failure, gun-runners, stowaways, terrorist plots and drug smugglers. She has come to represent something inherently British, touching hearts everywhere and mirroring the nation’s joy and sadness over the last 50 years. Built for Cunard by the John Brown Shipyard of Clydebank as a twin-screwed transatlantic liner and cruise ship, Queen Elizabeth 2 had a service speed of 28.5 knots and operated for nearly 40 years. Her revolutionary design used aluminium alloy in her construction (mainly in the superstructure) which allowed for a shallower draft, while increasing the ship’s stability and permitting restaurants and public rooms to be placed higher in the ship. The interior had all the verve of the Swinging Sixties, reflecting a quiet elegance. Nightclubs, a piano bar, a two-level theatre, two ballrooms, a card room, two libraries, a shopping arcade and an observational lounge as well as four swimming pools (two indoors) and a large expanse of deck were some of the amenities on hand. The lobby was circular with a sunken

seating area, navy carpets, walls lined with navy hide and sofas covered in green leather. The silvered ceiling flowed to the outer walls in concentric circles like the pattern made by a stone dropped in the water. On the Sports’ Deck below, apart from the usual ship-board games, there was a children’s room with a crèche and a cinema. Brian Price, Cruise Director from 1974 to 1995, says: “The original exterior and interior designs were iconic from any other...and remain iconic today, even as she lies in Dubai. No other more recent ship, regardless of modern techniques, will ever replace her image.” During her long service the QE2 would undergo many major refitting and refurbishments, change ownership several times and become the largest ship at the time to travel through the Panama Canal. Challenging events would arise in her long history such as the time she went to the rescue of the burning Antilles cruise ship which had run aground. The QE2 would suffer from her own troubles when power failure occurred off Trinidad as a result of jellyfish being sucked into the intakes. In the Seventies extortionists informed Cunard in New York that they had placed six bombs on board. A bomb disposal team was parachuted onto the ship in mid-Atlantic. No bombs were found and the criminal mastermind was arrested and sentenced to 20 years in prison. On another occasion the ship left on a chartered cruise to Israel to commemorate the 25th anniversary of the state’s founding. President Anwar Sadat of Egypt later revealed in a Panorama interview on BBC Television that he had countermanded an order given to an Egyptian submarine commander by President Gaddafi of Libya to torpedo the vessel. Another plot to blow up the ship by the IRA was again averted in the mid-Seventies. In 1982 she was requisitioned by the British Government to carry 3,000 troops and 650 crew volunteers to the Falklands where she was under the constant threat of attack. She became the last Cunard steamship to undertake the crossing of the Atlantic and in 1987 she was re-engined with nine diesel engines and totally refurbished at a cost of £110 million. Working aboard the QE2 was not always plain sailing. John Chillingworth joined Cunard as a cadet in The QE2 under construction (above) at Clydebank, and launched by the Queen on 20th September 1967. CUNARD

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THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

Chief Engineer John Chillingworth and some glimpses of the luxury that passengers could enjoy. Below: The QE2 in New York. CUNARD

1969. By 1984, aged 31, he had become the youngest ever Chief Engineer for a Queen. “Not only did I have large boots to fill,” he says, “but I had to prove myself.” The QE2 was proving to be a handful at the time. “Fortunately for me, I had lived through many crises of my predecessors, so had a good handle on how things had to be done.” John would later go on to head-up QE2 London, a consortium set up to return the QE2 to Britain and to save her for perpetuity. By 2002 the QE2 had completed five million miles — a world record and the equivalent of sailing to the moon and back nine times. By the end of her time with Cunard she had completed 1,423 voyages, carried 2.5 million passengers, made 806 Atlantic crossings and 25 full world cruises. For those travelling on the QE2, the first night was the Captain’s cocktail party. Gentlemen would dress in dinner jackets and ladies in stunning evening gowns. John Chillingworth (Chief Engineer) would greet the 12 people at his table in first class in the evening, while the Deputy Chief Engineer did the same at his table in the tourist class restaurant. Conversation would flow and they were usually a “good bunch”, says John. “I used to find socialising a good way to turn off; however, if there was a major going-on, or if we were on fog or ice stand-by I would keep everything low key and not drink.” First class and cabin class were only in operation on the trans-Atlantic crossings when accommodation and dining were the main criteria for establishing a difference between the two. When QE2 went cruising she was one class and afforded a lifestyle which was out of this world. Glamour was the order of the day and one particular lady hired an additional suite of rooms just to house her extensive wardrobe, so she never appeared in the same outfit twice. “I suppose the quantity of caviar consumed was a fair indicator of opulence whether crossing the Atlantic or cruising,” reflects Brian Price. “For most of its life QE2 was

the world’s number one consumer of the best caviar, and I managed a fair bit myself.” There were many passengers who cruised for long periods of time, and others who came back repeatedly to travel on QE2. It didn’t seem to matter where the ship was going. Cunard ships were best known for being just a bit more formal than the ordinary cruise ships. QE2 epitomised this, with grand staircases that gave every opportunity for ladies to show off their finest ball gowns. Brian Price remembers chatting with Sir Nigel Broackes (Chairman of Trafalgar House who owned QE2 for a number of years) at a Captain’s cocktail party in the Queen’s Rooms. “Brian, don’t look now,” he whispered, “but there’s a lady just behind you wearing matching earrings, necklace and bracelet in emeralds and diamonds. Well, they’re probably worth more than it cost to build this ship.” 

THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

37

‘MEMORIES OF THE QE2’ (continued)

The QE2 and Royal Yacht Britannia, with the Queen Mother on board; the family of Cruise Director, Brian Price, being served by a steward; Captain R.W. Warwick on the bridge.

Brian remembers the guests being entertained by many big names, including Vera Lynn and Bob Hope on a D-Day Commemorative Cruise while his wife still remains amazed by “the endless whirl of cocktail parties”. Captain R. W. Warwick, Lt. Cdr. RNR FNI, captained the QE2 for several years in the Nineties. As a young man he had stepped aboard her in 1970 and was “totally in awe” at what he saw. “At this point,” he says, “it became my ambition to join Cunard with the hope and goal of being in command one day.” In 1990 he took command as Captain and Master of the ship. As Master, his prime responsibility was always for the safety of all those aboard, closely followed by the safety of the ship although this role extended further to the management of all aspects of the ship. The ship is like a small town, often with over 2,500 people on board. One moment the Master is being a managing director caring for the commercial viability of the vessel, next he can be like the mayor of a town, judge and jury, promoting sales, planning future cruises, attending press and television interviews or hosting a reception for port officials. Many memorable events and incidents occurred during his time on board. It was while he was Second Officer in 1972 that the bomb scare occurred. The ship launched a lifeboat in the North Atlantic and Second Officer Warwick (as he was then) assisted in picking up the bomb disposal experts who had parachuted into the sea. As Chief Officer in 1982 he was involved in the Falklands and helped convert the ship to carry troops, vehicles, ammunition, helicopters and stores to the campaign. Later in 1990 he took command of the QE2. This was the first time that a Cunard Master had captained the same ship as his father (Commodore W. E. Warwick was QE2’s first Captain). He remembers the first day very clearly when Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II boarded for the Spithead review on the 150th anniversary of the Cunard line and when the Queen came to the bridge to witness his first docking. Later, Captain Warwick’s father would sail with him as a passenger. This meant a lot. “My father was a man of few words, but the fact that he sailed with me as a passenger when I was in command meant that I had done all right in his eyes.” Perhaps one of the greatest pleasures for Captain Warwick was performing the marriage ceremony of his daughter in 2001. Captain Warwick found every aspect of the job enjoyable: travelling the world, exploring foreign lands, experiencing different cultures and “welcoming passengers from all the corners of the earth was always a pleasure”. He believes the QE2 always had a unique appeal to those who liked to go to sea in ships; for many it was turning this dream into a reality. As he says: “Other ships go to destinations but for many travellers the QE2 was the destination.”

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THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

Captain Warwick would go on to become Master and Commodore of the QM2, but still remembers the QE2 with great fondness. QE2 will spend its 50th anniversary in Dubai facing a very uncertain future. She was officially handed over to new owners, Dubai World, in November 2007 after 40 years as an ocean-going liner. Three companies were involved: Istithmar (the equity wing of DW), Nakheel and later Dubai World Ports. The contract and ownership for QE2 was initially with Istithmar. It was hoped that Nakheel would be in control of the future development, but Nakheel had over-expanded and came close to going out of business when the global recession hit. After four years of lay-up costing $12 million a year, Istithmar transferred ownership to Dubai Dry Docks who report to Dubai World Ports. Plans to develop the ship into a luxury hotel have not materialised up to now, although it is rumoured that some repair work is being carried out. Attempts were made by QE2 London, a consortium based in Britain, to bring QE2 back to the UK in 2012. Despite initially making good progress with Dubai World to secure the ship, the agreement fell through and QE2 London was ultimately dissolved. The future of this iconic ship now seems very uncertain. John Chillingworth says: “Since the ship has been in Dubai, she has spent the last two years without power and has suffered from the extreme heat. All her aluminium decks have buckled and the teak decks have lifted. There are thousands of cracks in her superstructure.” He believes that QE2 “represents a testament to British shipbuilding and design and was part of many people’s lives for over 40 years. She is a national treasure and should be kept for future generations to see.” JOHN GREEVES The QE2 in Dubai.

CUNARD

Further Information www.qe2.org.uk www.cunard.co.uk

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The man who keeps a watchful eye on the heart of the Nation

and social engineers to brainwash us that family and Christian values are out of date then, literally, God help us because they laid the once rock-solid foundations of our now crumbling democratic society.

No comment!

THE WORLD’S WEALTH

PLOTTING THE FUTURE

CAN WE TRUST THE BBC?

A

D

T

s one grows older, we should grow wiser through experience. Sadly, many of us are conditioned into believing what is often untrue because rich corporations and people control the all-pervasive media and thus control what is — and is not — broadcast. Incredibly, if Caitlin Moran writing in The Times is to be believed, then just 62 people own half the world’s wealth. Insane! It would not be so bad if they gave away or shared their wealth to help others. Some do but most don’t even though they can’t take it with them.

GIVING TO CHARITY

W

hilst talking about charity, I urge you again not to give anything to people who accost you in the street because as much as 90 per cent of your contribution legally goes into their own pocket. I also urge you to choose a smaller charity as opposed to the many global ones where much, if not most of the money raised, is either swallowed up in administration or ends up in the wrong hands. Opt for a small personal charity or where the money goes directly to a worthy project.

o you own an allotment? There has been a boom in demand in recent years and waiting lists can be as much as five years. What a splendid paradox but if you are aware of any green projects or allotments under threat, then please contact the Campaign to Protect Rural England at [email protected] .

COUNTY TIES

B

elieve it or not, I now own every one of our 40 traditional county ties (see page 96) and wear a different one to work each day. Being patriotic is nothing to be ashamed of and we should all be proud of our English heritage. The enemy is at the gates, however, and if we continue to allow trendy politicians

his is the title of a book written by former BBC employee, Robin Aitken, in which he questions the neutrality of the Beeb. I personally believe it was hijacked some years ago and is now institutionally left wing, especially in its coverage of politics and world affairs. Aitken confirms this and he ought to know. If you are white and middle class then the BBC doesn’t want you any more, even if you are appearing on radio! These are the facts exposed by the Daily Mail last October when it revealed extremely worrying traits such as the sacking of comedian Jon Holmes from The Now Show. I don’t much care for so-called modern comics but this is an affront to all decent citizens. Why was

ALL WE LIKE CHIC

D

o we really? I don’t enjoy watching unsmiling, faceless models trundling fashions along the catwalk and nor do my female colleagues in the office who came up with the adapted Biblical phrase “All we like anorexic sheep” — further adapted into the short slogan above. Who buys these uglylooking clothes anyway?

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THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

There is nothing so fulfilling as an allotment which allows us to grow own own produce. However, many are under threat from developers (see Plotting the Future). PAUL THOMPSON

How much genuine progress has been made since the referendum vote to leave the EU? It seems extremely unlikely we will find out in a hurry!

he sacked? Apparently because he is white and middle class, the Beeb saying “We’re recasting the programme with more women and diversity.” Other BBC stars have also described how they have been affected by “positive discrimination”. All my nonwhite (a horrible phrase) friends believe in appointing the best person for the job, irrespective of colour, class or religion because to do otherwise is mad, unfair, and extremely dangerous. If I wish to hear what is really going on around the world then I find programmes like Russia Today and Al Jazeera more likely to tell the truth than the BBC. Did you know that 1,500 newspapers, 1,100 magazines, 9,000 radio stations, 1,500 television stations and 2,400 publishers are owned by just six companies? How many of them, though, are exposing the appalling behaviour of so many male migrants in Europe who see women as only fit for sexual assault and vilification? I belong to the pre-Baby Boomer generation (only just though), who have become increasingly disillusioned by our world leaders and fear for the future. We won’t be here to see the fallout from world terrorism but we fear for our children and grandchildren.

PRESERVING THE PAST, PROTECTING THE FUTURE

D

riving to work recently I spotted this slogan on a fencing truck which struck me as both clever and profound but with a wider meaning for society. Many have no sense of history and also no sense of the future. Existing purely for the present is both short-term and stupid.

SAY THAT AGAIN!

FAREWELL HILDA OGDEN

M

y daughter talks to her young twins in English, French and German but I doubt they could get their heads around this veritable tongue twister seen painted on a mug: I’ll go out on a limb, a bough even, to concede that English is weird. It can be understood though, through tough thorough thought, if you’ll pardon my cough.

W

hen it began in 1960 Coronation Street was full of wonderful characters who acted out believable scripts without the need for bad language or gratuitous violence and nastiness now so prevalent. The Hilda Ogden Society was formed by Russell Harty, John Betjeman, Laurence Olivier and Michael Parkinson but the actress who depicted her, Jean Alexander, died recently, aged 90. In real life she was more quiet and reserved. RIP! LETTER SENT TO AN AUSTRALIAN NEWSPAPER

WINCHESTER DECLARATION

A

lfred the Great was also known as Alfred the Lawgiver, and last November a group of constitutional experts and activists gathered at Winchester to make a public declaration requiring that the Rule of Law be immediately restored within the UK. George Orwell would recognise the very real risk of illegal and authoritarian rule now unfolding.

It’s about time the authorities did something about older drivers. For too long they have caused havoc by hogging the left hand lane, sticking to the speed limits and halting at “Stop” signs, causing great inconvenience and preventing others doing what they like. Another concern is by avoiding fines they are not doing their bit for state revenue and therefore placing a further burden on younger drivers. Until older drivers can prove they are proficient at weaving in and out of traffic, driving while texting or talking on their mobile phone, tailgating, using drugs or doing wheelies they must be banned from holding a licence. THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

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The replica Puffing Devil steams through the streets of Camborne. Trevithick’s statue in his home town.

Camborne Cheers Trevithick Day

O

n the last Saturday in April, the streets of the Cornish mining town of Camborne are alive with the sight and sounds of brass bands, dancers and the hiss and whistles of steam engines. The townsfolk are celebrating their most famous son, Richard Trevithick. Trevithick was born on 13th April 1771 at Pool, within sight of the rocky granite outcrop of Carn Brea. The location of the miner’s cottage in Station Road is now marked by a memorial made of Cornish granite. At this time Camborne was only a village, experiencing the growth to its present size in the mid-19th century. In 1772, the Trevithick family moved to a cottage in the village of Penponds, which is today in the care of the National Trust, and known as Trevithick Cottage. At the age of 18, Richard followed his engineer father into the tin-mining industry and such was his aptitude for engineering that he became a consulting engineer two years later. This was despite having a poor academic record at school! His father died in 1796, and a year later he married Jane Harvey, also from an engineering family, with whom he went on to have six children. Known as the “Cornish giant” he was 6 feet 2 inches tall and powerfully built. It was not surprising that, besides engineering, he had a reputation as a wrestler.

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THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

Following James Watt’s earlier patents, Trevithick was the first British engineer to experiment with high-pressure steam. By the turn of the century, when Watt’s patents expired, he was well on his way to developing the world’s first steampowered road locomotive capable of carrying passengers. This had its test run on Christmas Eve 1801, when it made its famous ascent of Tehidy Road in Camborne. This event is forever immortalised in the Cornish folk song “Going up Camborne Hill Coming Down”, beloved of male voice choirs and rugby teams alike! The engine earned the nickname “Puffing Devil” and an exact replica, completed in 2001, is the star turn in the steam vehicle parade on Trevithick Day, including the ascent of Camborne Hill. Watching the driver

and his helpers try to steer this unwieldy contraption through the town’s narrow streets lined with onlookers gives us a clue to the origin of this soubriquet! In 1803 he demonstrated a second steam carriage in London, but lost money on the venture. Trevithick followed his road locomotives with a rail locomotive in 1804. This hauled a load of 10 tons of iron and 70 men for nine miles at Pen-yDarren Ironworks near Merthyr Tydfil in South Wales. It has been said that this event heralded the beginning of the railway age. In 1808 he built what was to be his last steam railway locomotive, which he named Catch Me Who Can. He took the engine from Bridgnorth, where it was built, to London, where he had set up a circular track near Euston Square. Here the engine and carriages were demonstrated against horse power in a “steam circus”, but again he had to halt the venture, this time due to a derailment. Nonetheless, he had successfully run the world’s first fare-paying passenger train. The Severn Valley Railway at Bridgnorth in Shropshire is currently building a replica of Catch Me Who Can, and holds, an annual “Rally in the Valley” inspired by Trevithick (http://www. catchmewhocan.org.uk). Trevithick then turned to civil and marine engineering projects, including an attempt at a tunnel under the Thames at Rotherhithe. This failed when

Brass bands and dancers celebrate Trevithick Day in Camborne.

the tunnel flooded and he narrowly escaped drowning. By now living in London, his next idea was a steam tug design followed by a number of other marine projects, but none was successful. Disaster struck in 1810 when he contracted typhus and was forced to return to Cornwall. The following year, recovered from the illness, he was declared bankrupt. For a few years he worked on Cornish pumping engines and in 1813 he received a visitor from the Peruvian silver mines interested in his high-pressure steam pumping engines. So it was in 1816 that Trevithick set sail from Penzance to Peru, and spent the next 11 years travelling around South and Central America. During this time he had many adventures, including a stint in Simon Bolivar’s revolutionary army, and was almost devoured by an alligator. Most of his money spent, he returned to Falmouth in 1827 with only the clothes on his back. He had been fortunate enough to have met fellow steam pioneer James Stephenson in Costa Rica, who gave him enough money for his fare home. Trevithick never again built road or railway engines, and his last project was a commission to work on a new steam turbine in Kent. After a year on this project, lodging in Dartford, Trevithick fell ill with pneumonia and died in his hotel room on 22nd April

Trevithick Cottage in the village of Penponds, near Camborne.

1833. He was penniless and no members of his family were present. He was buried in an unmarked pauper’s grave in St. Edmund’s burial ground, Dartford. The burial ground closed in 1857 and he is now remembered by a plaque on the wall. In the years that followed his death, his contribution to steam engineering has been commemorated in several places, including Westminster Abbey, where a stained-glass window was erected in 1888. This depicts nine Cornish saints with Trevithick himself as St. Piran, Cornwall’s patron saint. There is also a wall plaque at University College in Gower Street, close to where Trevithick held his “steam circus”. In 2007 a blue plaque was unveiled on the wall of the Royal Victoria and Bull Hotel in Dartford, where he died. Of course he has also been remembered in the town of his birth. As well as the birthplace monument and Trevithick Cottage, a magnificent statue outside the Passmore Edwards Library in Camborne was unveiled by the Duke of Kent, Prince George, in 1932 in front of 10,000 people. Sculpted by L.S. Merrifield, it depicts the “Cornish giant” holding a model of his locomotive and a pair of dividers. As a living memorial, in 1984 the Trevithick Society planned the first Trevithick Day which was held on 28th April. Special

dances were devised, with the morning dance consisting of girls dressed as “bal maidens”, women who used to work on the surface dressing the tin ore, and in the afternoon the Trevithick Dance, with the women wearing the Cornish colours of gold edged with black. The highlight is a parade of rarely seen steam vehicles, latterly including the appearance of the replica “Puffing Devil”. Sadly, Trevithick’s achievements were not recognised in his lifetime. However, the annual celebrations in Camborne have helped to rectify this, and have spread farther afield, to South Wales. The townsfolk of Merthyr, where his railway locomotive was first demonstrated, held their own Trevithick Day on 21st February 2014, the 210th anniversary of the historic event. In Camborne, meanwhile, organisers worked hard establishing funding to secure future events after wet Cornish weather on Trevithick Day in 2014 kept the crowds away, leading to heavy financial losses. They have been successful so far, and I have a feeling that the spirit of Trevithick will not be allowed to die! JOHN HUSBAND Further Information Trevithick Day is on Saturday 29th April 2017. For further information: www.trevithick-day.org.uk

Some of the steam-powered vehicles at past Trevithick Day celebrations in Camborne, including a Stanley steam car (above) and one made by the White Motor Company (below).

Above: A replica of the Enterprise steam coach which started running in 1833. Right: A Stanley steam car. The company produced 10,000 cars between 1898 and 1925. THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

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The Editor is always pleased to receive letters or emails from readers, which must contain the writer’s name and full address, not necessarily for publication, but regrets that he is unable to acknowledge or reply individually to letters received, except by way of occasional comment in these columns. The right is also reserved to abbreviate letters intended for publication, unless correspondents specifically request otherwise. Please address your letters to: “Post Box”, This England, The Lypiatts, Lansdown Road, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire GL50 2JA. Email: [email protected] Website: www.thisengland.co.uk

High Street Shops

Chatham Memories

Sir: What an interesting and revealing article (“The Editor’s Letter”, Winter 2016) dealing with the closing of the shops with which we have all been familiar during our lives. I well remember when Lewis’s opened in Leeds. I was taken by my grandmother by double-decker bus from Wrenthorpe, near Wakefield, for their exhibition of a small aircraft in which a then-famous pilot had made a return flight to Australia. Grandma paid sixpence so that I could climb some steps and peer down into the cockpit. I cannot recall the name of the intrepid airman, but I do recall that the plane was red in colour. Many people queued out onto the pavement for this event. Going to Lewis’s was always a great treat and only happened during school holidays. — JONNI

Sir: Reading the “Junior Sales” article (“Forget-Me-Nots”, Winter 2016) took me back as I lived just five minutes from Hawkins shop. I was born in 1947, and lived in Chatham until 1970. Hawkins would have been on the corner of Church Street and the New Road, then the main trunk road from Dover to London, the A2. Opposite would have been a Friary Meux pub. The other corner was a chemist and the fourth corner was St. Paul’s Church. All have gone now! At the bottom of Church Street was our High Street, which started at Luton Arches. This viaduct still carries the trains from east and north Kent to London. Names the author of the article may remember include: Elliott’s bike shop, Petts the newsagents, Packer’s the bakers,

STRATTON-BROOK, EGREMONT, CUMBERLAND.

Sir: Reading about the department stores which are no longer around reminded me of an incident during the war. My mother had taken us into Coventry and we were in Owen Owen when an air-raid siren went off. All the customers were ushered into the basement for the next hour or so until the all-clear. The next day whilst we were at home in Tile Hill another air-raid occurred and Owen Owen got hit and several people in the basement were killed with others hurt. — RITA BULLEN (née BARNARD), SOUTH GRAFTON, NSW, AUSTRALIA.

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THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

Clifford’s the leather shop, Lofts fish and chip shop, and Pats the sweet shop where every Easter there would be an enormous egg displayed in the window. Opposite was the Regent cinema. Then came the notorious Cage Lane, hang out for the Teddy Boys in the late 1950s. Cooper’s record shop was where I bought my first 78 record, Frankie Lymon and the Teenagers. Then the Ritz cinema where us ABC Minors would go to Saturday morning flicks. I could go on. It was a wonderful place, but like so many others, it has gone to seed. There wasn’t a phone shop, charity shop or Pound shop to be seen. Every premises was in use. There were pubs dotted along the way, too numerous to mention. My mum called it the Golden Mile. She probably wasn’t far wrong. — GRAHAM ROBERTSON, GILLINGHAM, KENT.

The Town Hall in Leeds, Yorkshire. A reader recalls visiting a department store when it first opened in the city. See “High Street Shops”. TONY ROSTRON

Deryck Guyler Sir: Some time ago a friend gave me a copy of your spring 2013 issue, which featured a letter (“Deryck’s Washboard”) about the late actor Deryck Guyler. My friend knew I would be interested as I am Deryck’s youngest son! I would like to thank the correspondent, Mike Cowen, for his kind words and assure him that Deryck’s washboard is still safe in my ever-loving care and is very dear to me for obvious reasons after I lost my wonderful father 17 years ago. — CHRIS GUYLER, BRISBANE, QUEENSLAND, AUSTRALIA.

Railway Records Sir: The winter 2016 This England was, as usual, filled with excellent articles including “On the Footplate of the Flying Scotsman”. The author states that the Flying Scotsman was the first authenticated locomotive to achieve 100 mph. This is incorrect as the first record of 102.4 mph was recorded by the redoubtable Charles Rous-Marten when travelling on the Bristol-Plymouth Ocean Mails hauled by the Great Western locomotive 3440 City of Truro on 9th May 1904. It was an event carefully planned by GWR management to show that the GWR could handle the Ocean Mails at speeds much faster than their rival, the London and South Western Railway who were competing for this valuable traffic. This speed has been endlessly disputed by envious rivals, but is proudly

A Silver Cross of St. George for the founder of the Marmalade Trust Volunteers were recruited and fund-raising took on a new meaning. By the following year 18 had grown to 40 and within two years Christmas Day lunch was being held in three different locations with companionship extended to 60 people. The Trust believes nobody should spend Christmas Day alone if they don’t want to and also recognises loneliness as a year-round affair. Amy comments: “We host our lunches at local pubs and restaurants because our guests say this makes them feel part of the community. We also fund-raise to make sure all our guests are invited as friends. We do not exclude people by age and are now able to extend invitations to people with disabilities who would also have been on their own. Our volunteers mean everything because they drive the guests, raise the money, fill the hampers and share the excitement. We could not do it without them.” Well done Amy, and all her volunteers. EDWARD CAMPION

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oneliness is bad for your health, which occupational therapist, Amy Perrin, quickly recognised. Having worked as a health professional and volunteer for more than 20 years, she was well aware of how tough social isolation and loneliness can be, so in 2013 she founded the Marmalade Trust in order to help older, vulnerable people. When three of those she regularly helped told her they would be spending Christmas Day alone, she tried to find them somewhere to go but immediately discovered the great shortage of Christmas Day events in Bristol, so she decided to take them out herself instead. Word spread and Amy was approached by GPs, health professionals and a local bank clerk, all asking if there was space for someone they knew who was going to be alone. The original group of three quickly expanded to 18 and, following a lovely day, the thank-you cards began to flood in and, with comments such as “This was the first time in 16 years I was not alone on Christmas Day”, the Marmalade Trust was born.

depicted at the Great Western Society site at Didcot, Berkshire. — JIM PARTRIDGE, WAIKANAE, NEW ZEALAND.

Annual Enjoyment Sir: My husband and I subscribe to both This England and

Evergreen and such pleasure they have brought to us both. Receiving the This England Annual has been reminiscent of childhood days when we would hope to receive the Annual of our favourite reading throughout the previous year!

Further Information

Marmalade Trust, c/o Entrepreneurial Spark, RBS Building, Avon Street, Trinity Quay, Bristol, BS2 0PT Tel: 07566-244788 http://marmaladetrust.org Email [email protected]

The 2017 Annual features the poem “A Song of Kent” by Margaret Owen. This poem was, in fact, set to music by my uncle, Lawrence Beach, and very popularly received, bearing the title Kentish John. Lawrence Beach became an exceptionally talented musician

on a number of different instruments, having enlisted in the Royal Engineers Band in 1907, eventually completing 21 years with the Colours in 1928. In 1923 he was awarded the LRAM for Theatrical Conducting, and his musical career ended as THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017



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‘POST BOX’ (continued) bandmaster of a voluntary Royal Engineers Band at Aldershot. Lawrence Beach’s working life ended in 1950 having been sub-postmaster at Hollingbourne village in Kent for 20 years. It is interesting to note that Margaret Owen lived a mere 16 miles or so from Hollingbourne, at Whitstable. — SHIRLEY BEDELLE (née BEACH), SITTINGBOURNE, KENT.

Sir: Thank you so much for the article on Ivor Novello (“West End Magic”) in the This England Annual 2017. On 23rd April 1943 my fiance and I were engaged and married on 2nd October. To celebrate he took me to see Ivor Novello in The Dancing Years. I have never forgotten the show or Mary Ellis’s wonderful voice. — BERYL WILLIAMS, BIGGLESWADE, BEDFORDSHIRE.

*Our Annual is proving to be very popular, but it’s not too late to get your copy. See page 86. — Ed.

Friendly Lancashire Sir: I was intrigued to see your photo relating to the Lancashire sign (“Nelson’s Column”, Winter 2016) and to read the accompanying caption. I have to say that “people didn’t matter all that much” when County Hall made punitive cuts to the Library Service meaning that many village branch libraries have been closed. Those who supposedly matter have lost one of the hubs of their local community. Perhaps the best commentary on the rash of this slogan, which appears countywide, is the sign at the Cumbrian border on the A6070 near Burton-in-Kendal. Some local wag has employed his penknife to amend the same and it now reads: “Lancashire — a place where people natter.” Having experienced the sterile atmosphere of the London Tube on a daily basis, I am qualified to confirm a degree of loquaciousness is indeed one of the traits of Lancashire people. Yes, we “natter” but in my opinion it is one of our strong points and is indicative of an essentially friendly nature. Perhaps this edited slogan is far more revealing than the trite claim of the original. — IAN DENT, CARNFORTH, LANCASHIRE.

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THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

People enjoying the sun in Piccadilly Gardens, Manchester. Discover some heart-warming characteristics about Lancashire folk. See letter this page. TONY ROSTRON

Motoring Verse Sir: The series of motoring reminiscences (“My First Car”, Spring 2015 to Winter 2016) reminded me of the 1937 Morris Eight (“Morrie”), which I purchased in 1955 for £185. There followed three years of fun and adventure, the like of which I have never repeated with any other car. Morrie prompted me to write this poem: My Dear Old Friend We all remember our first car. For me it’s reaching very far. To times when aspirations grew Of one day owning one that’s new. On looking back across the years, I realise those hopes and fears Don’t really matter any more

With roads so crowded it’s a bore, A means to get from door to door. At weekends I could hardly wait Driving in the country in my Morris Eight Nothing really worked too well, I’d knock on wood and go like hell! I really felt I was alive When the speedo hit the 55! And now my course is nearly run But my Morrie and I sure had some fun.

— ARTHUR BENSLEY, GOLD COAST, QUEENSLAND, AUSTRALIA.

Cross (some people called it the “Suffering Cross”). After a very exciting two weeks we arrived in England when a South African citizen was still accepted on a working holiday. Between various jobs, a South-African friend and I decided to hitch-hike through Europe, England, Scotland, Ireland and Wales. This took us seven months and I still possess my two YHA cards. Carrying a rucksack each we went through France, Holland, Denmark, Norway and Sweden, down to Switzerland, Austria and Germany and continued down south to Turkey, Greece, Spain and Italy. It was a wonderful experience never to be forgotten. Hitch-hiking was reasonably easy and safe. I returned to England in 1964/65 when I had to obtain a work permit. I then spent another two years in London. From the time I arrived I fell in love with the country and have returned on holiday a further seven times. I have a son who lives in the UK, he sends me air tickets and I stay with him. I am now 78 and until last year my son still took the two of us to Europe for 10 days at a time (with rucksacks). Seeing the countries again made me feel very nostalgic and I have memories I shall never let go of. I still remain in constant contact with friends from those trips more than 50 years ago. — LORRAINE SCHOLTZ, CAPE TOWN, SOUTH AFRICA.

YHA Traveller Sir: “YHA Memories” (“Post Box”, Autumn 2016) reminded me of similar experiences. In 1961 I left Cape Town, South Africa, for London on an Australian liner Southern

A reader’s first car was the source of poetic inspiration. See “Motoring Verse”.

Literary Whitby Sir: I read the article about Beatrix Potter and Frank Sutcliffe (Winter 2016) with interest because I had just finished reading a book entitled Sylvia’s Lovers, which is set in and about Whitby — under the fictitious name of Monkshaven — by Elizabeth Gaskell. The great detail in which she describes the location makes me feel sure that she is another author who must have visited Whitby, if not stayed there for a time. It is a somewhat harrowing story, not at all like Mrs. Gaskell’s well-known style, and involves the press gang, a hanging, drownings and several other deaths! I read it because of the author’s connections with Knutsford (Cranford) where I was born and brought up. — IAN BLEASDALE, RAMSEY, ISLE OF MAN.

Royal Pictures Sir: To commemorate Queen Elizabeth’s 90th birthday, a set of stamps was issued in Australia depicting Prince Charles, Queen Elizabeth, Prince George and Prince William. So we have the male heir apparent, the reigning Queen and two male heirs, four generations of the British Royal family together. In the historic schoolroom of the Redland Museum in Cleveland, Queensland, Australia, hangs a framed photo, taken in 1894, of four generations of the same British Royal family. What is especially interesting is that the configuration (the female reigning Queen and her three male heirs) is exactly the same as the current portrait. Queen

father, Prince Edward, King Edward VII from 1901 to 1910. There is a big contrast between the style of the two photos. The 2016 group is, like the 1894 one, dressed formally, but the pose is by no means as rigid. The one of Queen Victoria and her heirs is sufficiently imposing to inspire both reverence and fear in the children in the classroom! This may have been no bad thing. — SANDRA DAVIS, WELLINGTON POINT, AUSTRALIA.

Familiar, but different! A reader contrasts these photographs of the royal generations. See letter this page.

Victoria is seated, holding her great grandson, the infant Prince David, who in 1936 reigned briefly as King Edward VIII. On

the left stands the baby’s father, Prince George, who reigned as King George V from 1910 to 1936. On the right stands his

Guernsey Evacuees Sir: Re “Guernsey Evacuation” (“Post Box”, Autumn 2016), evacuees came from St. Peter Port to my home town near Manchester. I was nine years old and was excited at the 

This England’s Finest Tea Rooms

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town to have tea with me. We have been to Sweet Simplici-Tea so etting our tea room recommendations off to a good start often that we are like family.” Indeed, Ellie considers that on their for 2017 is Ruth Franklin from This England’s hometown of regular visits there they are “treated like royalty”. Cheltenham. Ruth admits that she is “a devotee of tea rooms” With such a regal recommendation we will be despatching and likes nothing better than finding the perfect place for her a certificate to Sykesville, post-haste, with a suitably majestic afternoon cuppa wherever she goes on her many travels. One fanfare! of the little treasures which she has discovered is Deja Vu, Little Heath Farm, Little Heath Lane, Potters Our next winner for this issue, is End, Berkhamstead, Hertfordshire. situated in the home county of Sir As Ruth tells us, this is much more than Edward Elgar. Neil and Brenda Skidmore, your usual tea room: “it is a small, quirky who live in Brewood, Staffordshire, antiques centre which also has a tea shop wrote in to nominate Tisanes Tea serving home-made cakes.” She describes Room, Cotswold House, 21 The Green, it as “delightful, like an old cottage with Broadway, Worcestershire. On their rambling, meadow-like gardens,” where regular visits to the Cotswolds they say visitors can sit if they prefer to take their that this is “always our first port of call, tea outdoors on a fine day. Ruth praises for the excellence of the tea and coffee, this “peaceful little sanctuary in a rural and the smiling, helpful service that we location”, which is open on Fridays, receive from the young staff.” Saturdays and Sundays, and says it would Looking at the tea menu, a copy of be “lovely if it was mentioned in the Tisanes Tea Room in Broadway, which Neil and Brenda helpfully supplied pages of This England.” Well, Ruth, thanks Worcestershire, offers 30 different teas and to us, shows that this establishment is to you, we have done just that and a infusions. a tea-connoisseurs’ paradise. There are certificate will be on its way to Deja Vu. 30 different blends of leaf teas and infusions on offer ranging from Almond to Yunnan, so whatever your preference you will For our second award, we go a little further afield — to certainly find one to suit and refresh your palate. Maryland in America! “Devoted Anglophile” Ellie Baublitz, from Neil and Brenda also highlight the cakes (including Victoria Woodbine, wants to nominate her favourite tea room: Sweet Sponge and banana) and biscuits which are served, together Simplici-Tea, 7520 Main St., Sykesville, Maryland, 21784, with delicious breakfasts, lunches, light meals and the allUSA. This Victorian-style tea room prides itself on treating customers important afternoon tea. Walkers and dogs are welcome and as friends and family and is open from Wednesdays to Saturdays. there is also a garden where visitors can enjoy their tea. It is run by Robyn Zumbrun and Ellie tells us: “Her food, sandwiches and dessert combinations never cease to amaze and Congratulations to our trio of top tea are always delicious and home-made on the day.” rooms for this issue — your certificates are Customers can also purchase bags of specially blended teas as on their way. Look out for more winners well as teapots, cups, saucers and all manner of tea accessories. As in the summer. If you’d like to nominate Ellie explains, it is not just her favourite tea room: “Happily, Sweet your favourite please send details to: Simplici-Tea is always busy and has become a real asset to the This England’s Finest Tea Rooms, The small historic town of Sykesville.” However, the personal touch Lypiatts, Lansdown Road, Cheltenham, is what really matters as she points out: “I am only 15 minutes Gloucestershire GL50 2JA, or email: away from the tea room, but I have a ‘tea buddy’, Theresa, who [email protected] . loves Sweet Simplici-Tea so much that she drives an hour across

THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

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‘POST BOX’ (continued)

Probus South Africa

prospect as they came to stay in our Sunday School. Our Chapel was not attached to the Sunday School building. We had a large hall, which we called the “big school”, and a small indoor passage which took us to the “primary school”. When the children arrived with the headmaster and teachers there were mattresses on the floor of the big school and on the stage. The primary school was used as the dining room with trestle tables along three sides. At the end of the primary school was the kitchen, perfectly adequate in those days but I don’t know what health and safety would say today! All the ladies of the church had a rota and meals were cooked and served from this kitchen. After about three weeks the subject was brought up about the children being billeted. Our family of four were allocated one of the young teachers. Whilst they were all still in the Sunday school and before the Germans invaded the island, the parents of the children were sending over baskets of tomatoes which were grown in their glasshouses. We were inundated with tomatoes! Suddenly the government decided that it was too dangerous for the children to remain in our area and it was arranged that they would be moved to the Wirral which was just across the River Mersey from Liverpool, which everyone thought was madness.

Sir: I was most interested in the article on the Probus Movement (Autumn 2016). We have a very vibrant Probus Movement here in South Africa. The first Probus Club was formed in Durban in 1977. At present there are 96 clubs in South Africa. There are four Regional Associations with some 44 mixed clubs, 41 men’s clubs and 11 ladies’ clubs. They meet monthly and several times a month for outings, walks, and fellowship. My husband belongs to Hout Bay Probus. People may ask “Why do we belong and what makes the concept so great”. The bottom line for our existence is friendship and fellowship amongst like-minded people. To my mind there are three basic types of people in the world, regardless of colour or creed, they are: “Those that make things happen, those that watch what happens and those that wonder what on earth happened”. You will find that most Probians fall into the first category! What makes the organisation so unique is the sanctity of the individual clubs. We all operate under a common umbrella with certain ground rules, but the integrity of each individual club allows us to achieve our enjoyment in different ways. It’s a great movement to belong to in retirement. — YVONNE MONRO,

Gloucester’s historic docks with the cathedral in the distance. A reader tells of the First World War hospital trains that arrived in the city. See letter below. PAUL THOMPSON

We were never evacuated because it was said we were not in a dangerous area although we were about a mile from the Manchester Ship Canal and the largest industrial estate in the country. — ELSE ANDREW, ALTON, HAMPSHIRE.

Hospital Trains Sir: “Forgotten First World War Railway Stories” (“Cornucopia”, Autumn 2016) was of great interest. My late father, Oliver Say, the third son of a furniture mover in Gloucester, had an involvement with this subject. His two older brothers worked in the family removals business, but after they enlisted at the start of the war, my grandfather, William, was left short of a

A Knighthood For Ken Dodd At last, at the age of 89, and following a campaign by This England (see the Summer 2015 issue), comedy genius and superb all-round entertainer Ken Dodd was awarded a knighthood in the New Year Honours List. In true Doddy style, Ken, the “King of Knotty Ash” who has been exercising the nation’s chuckle muscles for more than 60 years and continues to perform to packed houses, said he was “tickled and full of plumtiousness” at the honour (for services to entertainment and charity). As well as being one of the greatest stand-up comedians our country has ever produced, Ken has also enjoyed a successful recording career and his 1965 hit “Tears” remains one of the best-selling records of all time.

Congratulations Sir Ken, the honour is richly deserved. And many thanks to all those This England readers who supported our campaign: your many nominations clearly influenced the decision to give Ken a knighthood.

workforce. As a result he applied for — and was granted — permission for my 11-year-old father to leave school to work for him. At that time the main way of haulage was by horse and waggon and as my father later recounted to me, there were many occasions when grandfather would wake him at 2am and they would hitch up the horses to the trailer. They would then go to Gloucester Station to meet the hospital trains coming in from the Front. From the station, the injured soldiers were conveyed on the horse-drawn trailer to the local hospital. This was often in the winter in dreadful, freezing cold weather. He never described to me what injuries he saw that the soldiers had sustained, but he always said of them, “Poor men”. — DONALD SAY, GLOUCESTER.

Community Pubs Sir: I was interested to read your editorial about pubs (Autumn 2016). Did you know that a few years ago, the residents of Hudswell (a village on a road to nowhere near Richmond in Yorkshire) got together to buy and run their own pub, The George and Dragon, when it was faced with closure? This has run successfully ever since and has been visited by Prince Charles. Since then, the idea has been copied by villagers at Carlton-in-Coverdale who have successfully acquired and run The Foresters Arms in their village. Closer to Richmond, the residents in the village of Skeeby are attempting to do the same. — ALAN GRAHAM, LEYBURN, YORKSHIRE.

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Secretary Probus Association of the Western Cape, SUN VALLEY, SOUTH AFRICA.

Brexit Thoughts Sir: Congratulations on reclaiming your country from the EU monolith! I hope the other EU countries will soon follow suit, and judging by the amount of Euroscepticism now apparent in Europe, that possibility may not be far away. Brexit opens up many opportunities for the Union (although I think the knee-jerk reaction by Scotland is very ill-advised), both within the EU (as Germany has indicated that they are still open to trade), and without the EU (for example, the redrafting of various trade agreements between Britain and the Commonwealth is on the cards, plus a strengthening of the special relationship between the US and Britain). This decision will help farmers, fishermen and people in rural areas. I also pray that it might precipitate a domino-effect and

NSW, AUSTRALIA.

Sir: Colin Bullen’s emotive letter (“Postbox”, Winter 2016) branded remainers “spoilt children”, but wouldn’t Brexiteers have continued campaigning had they lost? Like 48 per cent of others I voted to remain, but fully respect the result without suggesting everything is perfect in Europe. At 86 years, a pensioner and not part of his “metropolitan elite”, I am just as patriotic as anyone but extricating ourselves from Europe is more complex than imagined. One reason I voted to remain was that the majority of young people desire it, seeing themselves as European as well as UK citizens. Unlike me they have 60 or more years in this world. Brexit almost certainly means that higher inflation will rear its unwelcome head this year. Young families and the poor will suffer most, not Boris or Nigel. The UK economy was my single most important consideration, not “go home you foreigners”. Europe was a huge and certain trading market pre-Brexit. I hope overseas workers return this year to pick our strawberries etc. on display annually in supermarkets, and allay the fears of anxious growers following Brexit — UK workers won’t. Also I hope we shall see the end of mindless violence against, of all people, the Polish who did so much to defend our country in the war when Poland was brutally overrun by the Nazi war machine. — A.J. CROWHURST, SUTTON COLDFIELD, WARKWICKSHIRE.

WALKING THE SOUTH DOWNS WAY

Although a reluctant rambler at first, for one lady, exploring the beautiful countryside between Eastbourne and Winchester proved an unforgettable experience.

LONDON PRIDE

A visit to Grace’s Alley, where we discover one of the capital’s best-kept secrets: Wilton’s Music Hall, the oldest surviving example of its kind in the country.

AUSTRALIA.

Precious Coins Sir: Regarding “Edward VIII’s Coins” (“Post Box”, Winter 2016) the correspondent correctly stated that coins in the name of this king were issued “in certain parts of the former British Empire”. The other currencies were: Fiji, New Guinea and British West Africa. All of these issues carry Edward’s name and titles, none of them carry his portrait and all have holes in the centre for reasons given in the previous letter. A few proof sets of British coins were struck and some of the dodecagonal threepenny bits got into circulation. If you own one of these they are now valued at £50,000 each! In the 1960s a local shopkeeper drew my attention to a shilling which had been passed over his counter to make a purchase. Although very worn it could still be identified as a coin of King Charles II (1660-1685). It had long ceased to be legal tender, but was still doing the rounds as currency. — DAVID A. MOSLEY, KEIGHLEY, YORKSHIRE.

Correct Waiting? Sir: Regarding examples of idiotic political correctness (“Post Box”, Autumn 2016), a few years ago I was in a restaurant in a remote part of Scotland. I came across references in the restaurant menu to “your waitperson”. “Waiter” or, heaven forbid, “waitress”, were obviously considered beyond the pale. — KEITH FARR, CHOLSEY,

“Lusitania” Facts

OXFORDSHIRE.

Sir: In the article “Lost on the Lusitania” (Winter 2016), I noted that it said: “...smoke belched from the four giant red and black funnels”. It may

For the Record Winter 2016, page 68: the picture shows Shanklin, not Ventnor, on the Isle of Wight.

ON THE TRAIL OF POLDARK

We follow in the footsteps of the handsome Cornish captain, Ross Poldark, to seek out the locations which provide the stunning backdrop for the award-winning television series, based on Winston Graham’s novels.

OLD SCARLETT

Immortalised in a painting and accompanying verse on the wall of Peterborough Cathedral, Robert Scarlett, sexton and gravedigger, lived through the reigns of five Tudor monarchs and officiated at the burials of Katherine of Aragon and Mary Queen of Scots. We tell his intriguing story.

THE SECRET GARDENS OF SANDWICH

Surrounding the majestic Salutation manor house in the heart of the town, the pathways, lawns, fountains and flower beds are a living monument to the work of Gertrude Jekyll and Sir Edwin Lutyens.

ASPECTS OF ENGLISH TOWNS

GRAHAM GOUGH

MATTHEW HICHOLSON, AVONDALE,

Coming in the Summer 2017 issue of THIS ENGLAND

interest readers to know that the fourth funnel was, in fact, a fake, put there purely for appearance by the designers/ship owners. Four funnels were considered more aesthetically pleasing than three, and the fourth gave a sense of speed. This concept was used in many of the liners of the time, including Titanic. Whilst not connected to the boilers, the fourth dummy funnel was not wasted though as it was used for ventilation for the turbine engine room and the reciprocating engine room. — MARK NELSON, SYDNEY,

Looking towards Herefordshire from the Malvern Hills.

bring the whole edifice of the EU crashing down about Europe’s ears. It was a 1950s solution to a 1940s problem unnecessary in 21st-century politics and business. Brexit has brought about a new paradigm, and the challenge now for British academia is how to work within that paradigm. It has brought scientists and the intelligentsia out of their comfort zones, and now it is time for Britain to rise again to the challenge presented to them by a new set of circumstances. —

It developed as a spa town in the 18th century, but since then the fortunes of Buxton in Derbyshire have ebbed and flowed. Now, thanks to an annual festival of literature and music, visitors are once again discovering its many delights.

HAPPY CAMPERS

After the first camp was opened at Skegness in 1936, Butlin’s quickly became a household name and for thousands it was their first seaside holiday which they happily repeated every year. Plus...regular features including Post Box, Nelson’s Column, Notes from a Cottage Garden, A Royal History of England, etc.

Publication date: 10th May O",-" Š=È" VÈ)V*"6ŒÞ6=@ @=— .

SEE PAGE 98 THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

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S

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unday was the best day of the week when I was growing up in the 1950s. There was no school, just long hours of freedom and the anticipation of a delicious roast lunch and a proper sit-down tea. The highlight, however, was the weekly visit by my much-loved grandfather who would take me on a gentle amble around our home town of Bridgnorth in Shropshire. Granddad had piercing blue eyes and a full head of snowy white hair, with the faded remains of a boyhood scar on his cheek. This was caused by a glass marble stopper which exploded out of a bottle of lemonade after a spot of over-enthusiastic shaking. Needless to say, Granddad never made that mistake again. We lived in a terrace house on a steep slope leading down to the railway station, and I used to bounce up and down on the back of an armchair placed in front of the window waiting for Granddad to appear. As soon as I spotted him, I would rush out and grab his hand tightly, full of anticipation. Granddad and I would invariably head for the Castle Gardens first of all and spend time admiring the castle ruins, imagining the people who used to live there in those far-off days. Bridgnorth folk are very proud of the fact that the Norman tower leans at an angle of 15 degrees — more than three times greater

than that of the Leaning Tower of Pisa — following an attempt to blow it up during the Civil War. We would then wander past the war memorial and its bronze figure of a soldier, arm outstretched in the act of throwing a grenade. I chattered on regardless, but Granddad always went a little quiet as he took time to read the names on the sides of the plinth. Was he recalling the faces of those lost comrades who never came home again? I was too young to understand the significance of the First World War and the sacrifices of a

The castle ruins and tower of St. Mary’s Church.

The Castle Hill Railway, seen from Castle Walk.

THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

A SHROPSHIRE LASS

lost generation but oh how I wish I could talk to him now about his memories. After a suitable pause we would walk out through the far gates and on to the Castle Walk with its sweeping outlook across the River Severn. This was what Charles I described as “the finest view in all my kingdom” when he stayed in Bridgnorth for three days shortly before the battle of Edgehill in Warwickshire in 1642. How I loved picking the white trumpetlike flowers of the bindweed that grew in such profusion at the base of the metal railings, and then reaching out as far as I could to launch them spinning into the air. Parachutes, we called them, and much time was spent seeing who could send them the furthest. I invariably won although, looking back down the years, I don’t think Granddad was trying too hard. More excitement came at the end of Castle Walk when we stopped to watch the comings and goings on the Cliff Railway. This is England’s oldest and steepest inland electric funicular railway, and for more than a century it has been transporting the people of Bridgnorth up and down the 111ft sandstone cliffs that separate High Town from Low Town. We always saved the railway for the return journey and instead made our way down to Low Town via the Stoneway Steps, which we called the Donkey Steps. Granddad used to tell me tales of the An old advertising sign on a building alongside the bridge.

Stoneway Steps. In days gone by, horses and donkeys carried cargo up these steps from boats on the River Severn. Left: The view down Railway Street in the late 1950s/early 1960s. The child in the centre is the author outside the family home.

days when Bridgnorth was a thriving port, and horses and donkeys carried cargo up these shallow steps from boats arriving on the River Severn. Halfway down we passed the Stoneway Chapel which we children always believed to be haunted. I held Granddad’s hand very tightly at this point! When we reached the bottom of the steps we headed across the river bridge and called in at the British Legion Club where Granddad enjoyed a glass of shandy and treated me to a bottle of Vimto and a packet of crisps. No ready salted in those days, of course — you had to fish out a blue packet of salt, sprinkle it over the crisps, and then shake the bag furiously in a vain attempt to disperse it evenly throughout. If Granddad got involved in conversation with other former servicemen, I passed the time by blowing down my straw and making the Vimto bubble up like a volcano. Much giggling ensued before we set off again and retraced our steps home. The trip back up to High Town on the Cliff Railway was something I looked forward to with an equal mixture of fear and delight — fear that the carriage would plunge back down to the bottom before we could get off, and delight at the breathtaking view laid out before us. My six-year-old legs would be getting very tired at this point so it was with relief that we made our way along Waterloo Terrace, with its row of entrancing shops, down Listley Street and back into Railway Street where we lived.

The strains of Family Favourites on the radiogram would greet us as we walked in through the front door, coupled with the appetising aroma of roast chicken and sage and onion stuffing, or roast beef and Yorkshire pudding. There would be apple pie and Bird’s custard to follow, or perhaps sticky treacle tart accompanied by a can of Carnation evaporated milk. Our family weren’t churchgoers, but in the afternoon my big sister and I would head off to Sunday School where I delighted in my growing collection of stamps depicting Bible scenes. They were brightly coloured and adorned with much gold and silver, and I took great pleasure in sticking them into my attendance book. Swans on the River Severn.

I kept that book for years, but it was lost when we subsequently moved house. Back home again and it was time for tea — ham salad with lettuce from the garden, tinned salmon or fish paste sandwiches, coconut sponge cake (Granddad’s favourite) and, if we were really lucky, a Tunnock’s caramel wafer. My mouth is watering as I write! We waved goodbye to Granddad and then it was the usual Sunday ritual of hairwashing and bathtime in the kitchen. No bathroom or indoor WC for us, but back in the 1950s we never thought of ourselves as deprived or poor. It was a good life with lots of love and attention — and what child could possibly ask for more? LYNNE HAYWARD More ‘FORGET-ME-NOTS’ overleaf

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(continued)

BEVIN BOY

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week before my 18th birthday a small buff official envelope arrived. This is it, I thought. I had previously registered for military service and had passed my medical examination. I unfolded the cyclostyled letter and quickly read the contents — I was unable to believe what it said. In a few sentences it told me that I had been selected, by ballot, to be called up for work in the coal mines! I had to report to the Creswell Colliery Training Centre at Worksop, Nottinghamshire, on 20th November 1944. If I wished to appeal against the order I had to do so within so many days. I was due for National Service, I was medically fit and there was no question of conscientious objection. It looked very much as though I was stuck with it. I knew this coal mining scheme was operating; it was the brainchild of Ernest Bevin, then Minister of Labour, and the unfortunate ballotees were nicknamed “Bevin Boys”. It seemed too many coal miners had joined the Forces and there

were not enough hands to run the coal mines. None of my friends had been unlucky enough to win such a ballot: it made me stand out like a sore thumb. In 1967 Alan Bullock wrote: “Bevin’s scheme, although fair enough in its procedure, was highly unpopular. Most of the young men drafted into the mines disliked the work and the conditions in which they had to live, there was more opposition than to any other form of conscription and a number preferred imprisonment to accepting direction. Up to the end of October 1944 out of 16,000 youths picked by ballot, 500 had been prosecuted for refusal to obey the National Services Officer’s order or for leaving their employment in the coal mines. Of this total 143 had been sentenced to imprisonment.” I arrived at Worksop after a day’s travel, took a bus to the village of Creswell and in no time I was settled in at the hostel, specially built close to the pit, no doubt to provide us with the suitable atmosphere.

Above: The Bevin Boys Medal is available to all those ballotees and volunteers who were called up between 1942 and 1948; lessons in the classroom were also part of the routine. Bevin Boys receiving training in 1945.

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On the first day there were about 100 of us, from all parts of the country and from all walks of life. I knew no one, but it was easy to talk to the others, we were all in the same boat. Divided into different groups we were given timetables for lectures, PT and underground and surface training. Then there was the issue of personal equipment: pit boots (great heavy things with studs and steel toecaps), pit helmets, PT shorts and vests, towels and overalls. Creswell Colliery was an old established coal mine, part of which was worked out, and had been taken over by the Training Centre, self-contained with classrooms, surface facilities and a large underground area. We started training at some ungodly hour like 6am: all dressed in helmets, overalls and pit boots, trudging through the muddy yard, across the wooden bridge which spanned the railway lines, inhaling diesel fumes and the long forgotten smell of steam engines. The instructors were from the older age group of mining deputies and foremen. They had to tread a gentle line with us — we were not a willing audience, none of us wanted to be there and, unlike the Army, they could not inflict punishment to keep us in order. The lectures were always carried out in a relaxed and often amusing way despite the fact that some of the aspects were somewhat boring. Physical Training was fairly energetic. Under the command of a Parachute Regiment PT Instructor, it included long walks, then later runs in our new pit boots. Many of us suffered painful blisters on heels and toes. The people of Creswell became accustomed to seeing the tortured looks on our faces as we ran painfully around their streets, but slowly we, and they, got used to it. Then, it was our turn to make our first visit into the bowels of the earth. I’m sure we all felt a little uneasy as we waited for the gates to be fitted to the cages. We

filed on, trying not to look each other in the eye, heard the bell “ting, ting, ting”, and we shot away into the darkness with a burst of negative G. The cage gathered speed and the air rushed past as we plunged what seemed like thousands of feet, and when it finally slowed down gradually the scene became lighter as we arrived in the pit bottom, white painted and with permanent electric lighting. A comedian among us called out “Basement, Ladies’ Underwear” as we filed out and followed the instructor to the training coalface. All was dark there, our cap lamps providing the only illumination. The atmosphere was warm with a musty smell and above we could see bits of jagged rock poking between the steel arches that formed the sides and roof of the roadway. At the end of the road we came to the coalface proper. It was nearly six feet thick but the instructor told of many cases where the coal was only three feet six inches thick. He suggested we all sit down, turn off our lights and remain silent. Instantly we were in total darkness. No one spoke, we heard the clicks and cracks of the roof being slowly compressed by the earth above. It was a sobering experiment. Someone asked “Is the roof coming in?” He assured us it was not and after about 10 minutes we put on our lights again. I finally found out where I was being sent: Ramcroft Colliery in Derbyshire, a reasonably modern pit working just one seam of coal about 300 feet below the surface. Down below, the coal was transported on conveyor belts from one belt to another until it reached the pit bottom where the coal went through a loader into wheeled tubs, then up the shaft to the screens where it was sorted, washed and finally sent to the market. Someone was of the opinion Bevin Boys needed further training and I was sent to Williamthorpe Colliery for a month to work on tubs near the pit bottom. Not by any stretch of the imagination could it be called training. I had to work with a young lad, who told me he liked working there because it was safe. He didn’t want to go near the coalface. The job was to marshal a group of empty tubs which arrived down a slight incline and send them away into the workings to be refilled. I returned to Ramcroft, supposedly as a trained coal miner. On my first day the deputy led me away for a long walk and a big surprise. We had half a mile to go starting with a one-in-four gradient which made us puff somewhat. We arrived at the gear-head of a conveyor

belt which the deputy stopped, telling me to “hop over” while the miners along the coalface were waving their lamps and shouting “Let the belt go!” I followed him on my hands and knees. Every time I lifted my head to see where I was going my lamp caught the roof and knocked my hat off. I was beginning to feel a bit desperate. We finally arrived at another gear-head, right in the middle of the face with a tiny recess behind: just enough room for two. Someone called “Firing! Firing!” The deputy called “Get down. They’re shot firing.” I was flat on my stomach with fingers in my ears. I heard “Woomph” and then again “Woomph” and tiny bits of coal came flying over the gear-head. The Bevin Boys Association banner. At that moment I wished I could have gone into the Air Force. Lodgings had been arranged for me up and saw bigger bits were falling, then by the Ministry of Labour with the Link two of the recently installed iron arches family. Mrs. Link, aged about 50 and moved out of place. without any teeth, always dressed in I rushed to the gear-head and stopped a pinafore; Mr. Link was a quiet, henthe belt. A voice called out “What’s the pecked miner. She would never have won matter?” I told him what was happening awards for variety in cooking and my and the miners started tapping the roof lunches were always cheese sandwiches. I and told me to go back and operate the later went to live in a Bevin Boys hostel, gear-head from the switch box further which was a great improvement. down the road. Two experienced colliers I was working alone one day in an came off the face and looked around. unlit main road, keeping an eye on the They decided it had settled down and conveyor belt which was transporting the that we could carry on. coal to the pit bottom, when I suddenly Next morning I found a completely noticed a flashing light on the belt. The different scene. It looked rather like the light signal was to stop the belt, and as inside of a cathedral: tons and tons had it looked a bit urgent I went to the main come down during the night shift. They switch box and pulled the lever. were expecting it, so no harm was done. Riding on the belts was not allowed, I was released in January 1948 but everyone did it, and when the belt after three years and two months of stopped beside me I saw the Overman purgatory, with only a railway warrant was on it. I asked what was the trouble to get me home and a letter from the and he said his boot was caught in mine manager stating “I can offer no the joint in the belt. He climbed off, finer example of a young man who said “Thank you”, and walked off. It served his country in time of crisis.” occurred to me, and I’m sure it did to MAX PUDNEY him too, that just a few feet Creswell Colliery, Derbyshire. further the belt went down MARTIN JENKINSON IMAGE LIBRARY/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO between hefty rollers. It doesn’t bear thinking about what would have happened to the Overman had I not been there! My usual place of work was at the gearhead, where I sent pit props and bars and other requirements to the colliers and kept the machinery clear of coal dust. Generally, everything went well but one day I noticed tiny bits of rock dropping on my helmet. I stepped back and looked THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

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Pictures from the Past

Admiralty Arch, The Mall, Westminster, London, 1913.

Charabanc leaving LNWR Station, Windermere, The Lake District, 1909.

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he power of photography is exceptional and farreaching. It can capture a moment in time, evoke an emotional response and provide a factual record. You only need to turn the pages of an old family photograph album to experience that sense of magic and wonder as you revisit past decades — the events, the people and the places. Looking at each snapshot prompts memories, perhaps tinged with joy and laughter, or sorrow and reflection. This fascination and curiosity persists even if we don’t have a personal or family connection to the images we see. Many of us have a compulsion to explore the lives of earlier generations and to discover how our predecessors lived. From our 21stcentury perspective, we eagerly embrace any opportunity to engage with past centuries as if satisfying our childhood dreams

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Barefoot urchins working as shoe-blackers, Liverpool, c1895.

Navvies at work constructing Manchester Ship Canal — a feat of Victorian engineering in Acton Grange, Warrington, c1889.

of travelling through time. We enjoy seeking out places of historical interest and gaining precious insights from an array of first-hand sources. Nowhere is the value and importance of visual testimony better illustrated than in a magnificent new book entitled Lost England 1870-1930 by Philip Davies. Turning the pages of this incredible and extensive volume is akin to opening the door to another world. An unrivalled collection of 1,200 images has been drawn from the archives of Historic England to provide a remarkable portrait of bygone times. Glimpsing each photograph takes you back to the late 19th and early 20th centuries and what strikes you most is the immense transformation that occurred throughout these six decades. It was the era of industrialisation and development, with great changes to

Newly opened petrol service station in Redhill, Surrey, 1927.

Bigg Market, Newcastle upon Tyne, c1920. Bainbridge’s on the left was one of the world’s first department stores.

transport, housing, education, employment, commerce and the way people conducted their everyday lives — whether they were blessed with wealth or struggled against poverty. There were also tremendous challenges as the cruel shadows of conflict fell across England with the outbreak of the First World War. The beauty of these photographs is that they record many diverse locations from the countryside and villages, to towns and cities. There is an excellent contrast too, between the stately homes, slums, suburbs, city streets and seaside resorts. By dividing the book into regions and counties, readers can satisfy their curiosity about their hometown, or a place with which they have a special affinity. But to fully appreciate this spectacular panorama of English history — and the changes between then and now — you will want to linger over all 560 pages. Every photograph reveals so much depth and detail, and the immediacy, impact and astonishing honesty of black-and-white images becomes startlingly apparent. A welcoming party at Charwelton Station, Northamptonshire for HRH The Duchess of Albany, 1905. Just as history is about facts, so too is it about feelings and perceptions and these pictures evoke a mixture wonder about their personalities, their families and their lives. of emotions. There is relief at how living conditions have As you look at them a stream of questions flows in your mind. improved, but you also think about what has been lost. What happened to them in the years after the photographs were In providing a mesmerising visual chronicle of the taken? Where are their descendants today, or is it possible that Victorian and Edwardian age, the pictures subtly document one of your ancestors could be in that picture? altering social attitudes. These were the years that witnessed Clearly some of these subjects were unaware of the women’s suffrage; child labour and statutory requirements photographer’s presence, while others were all prepared for education; the workhouse; innovation and enterprise; the as they stood lined up in their Sunday best. For these more mobilisation of troops on a vast scale; the building of canals, composed pictures this might have been the first time that they roads and railways, and the advent of motor vehicles. England had seen a camera, or posed for a photograph. Alas, in today’s and her people were transformed for ever as the foundations “selfie-obsessed” generation that innocence is one thing that for the future — and our lives today — were laid. The nation has been lost for ever. was initiating and responding to a rapidly altering world. Lost England 1870 - 1930 is a masterpiece of visual history. But as well as change and contrast, there is a welcome It also serves as a testament to the vital contribution that continuity in those images depicting crowds gathering at fairs, photography has made to the recording and understanding of markets or celebrations; children playing; families at the England’s eternally engrossing heritage. seaside; city traffic queues (both horse-drawn and motorised!) ANGELINE WILCOX and seasonal farming activities. Although machinery, methods and fashions have altered, the pattern of life and its traditions remains and is reassuringly familiar. Further Information Equally as revealing as the locations and events featured are Photographs extracted from Lost England: 1870-1930 the faces of the men, women and children who gaze out at you by Philip Davies (Atlantic Publishing, £45, hardback, from the pages. Some have expressions that seem to convey so out now). much, while others are more enigmatic. With all of them you THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

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In England — NOW! Celebrating English achievement, enterprise and creativity in the 21st century

THE ARBEAU DANCERS

With elegance, charm and expertise, the Yorkshire group are bringing traditional dancing to a new audience

E

lected Mayor of Ripon in Yorkshire in 1702, John Aislabie later became an ambitious MP for the town, and in 1718 went on to hold the position of Chancellor of the Exchequer. Two years later, implicated in the South Sea Bubble scandal, a credit crunch of its day, he was barred from public office and briefly imprisoned in the Tower of London. It was during this period that Aislabie dreamed of creating the Water Gardens at Studley Royal Park, and today they remain a rare surviving example of early 18th-century landscaping in the grand manner. The lakes, grottoes, canals, cascades, classic temples and the adjoining ruins of Fountains Abbey all provide a fitting setting for the Arbeau Dancers. This Yorkshire-based group, who in beautiful period costumes perform dances from the 15th to the 19th centuries, regularly appear there, as well as touring other historic sites around the North of England. I visited Arbeau member Jan LiddleHulme at her home in Bradford, where

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she was joined by the team’s oldest member, Neil Lloyd. I found both surrounded by a collection of period dresses and hats as they went on to tell me about the group that provides such perfect entertainment on glorious summer’s days in some of England’s most spectacular parks and gardens. “We usually have a dozen dedicated performers on hand, who dress and dance anything from medieval to Victorian and the ones in between,” Jan explained. “The team prides itself on being semi-professional, and any money gained goes straight back into the group to finance costumes and travel. No one takes anything out. Lots of our work comes via the National Trust and English Heritage. We also attend weddings, private parties, corporate events and even perform in shopping centres. “The costumes are all authentic, although it would be impossible to wear the actual clothing that has survived from the era as it would be far too

delicate and almost rotting away by now. We are lucky to have a lady member within our group who is City and Guilds trained in the art of dressmaking, and I lend a hand too. We carefully study and research prints and paintings from a particular era, utilising silks, cottons, satins and velvets in order to make the reproductions.” Jan (pictured with Neil, below) confessed that the public shows a great interest in what’s actually worn under the costumes, such as the corsetry which was worn by both men and women during the Baroque period (1600-1750).

Neil told me that the team was formed in 1974 when two friends were asked to demonstrate some dances at a concert; Neil joined the group during the 1980s. He told me the name “Arbeau” is taken from a 16th-century dance manual called Orchesographie which was written by a French monk using the pen-name of Thoinot Arbeau (an anagram of his real name). “Arbeau describes how the dances and steps were performed and gives useful pointers towards the etiquette and manners of the time. This and other contemporary manuscripts provide the sources for our repertoire of 150 dances. We also source notes made by dance masters of the day.” Neil said that, while dances from the early 20th century can be recreated precisely, being within living memory and after the advent of film and video

recording, the dances they perform “might be all wrong”, but they do strive to be accurate. The main thing is, they are keeping the dances alive. “We cover a time period of approximately 600 years, commencing with the grace of the medieval and renaissance courts, through the splendour of the Elizabethan age, the lively dances of the Civil War and Restoration eras, the elegance of the French and English Baroque courts and the light-hearted English Regency society to the enthusiastic celebrations of Victorian high society.” I pointed out to Jan that dancing in the modern sense seems like a mating ritual to me, but if the Arbeau dancing demonstrations are anything to go by it all seems a little too genteel for that? She explained that the dances themselves were performed in the royal courts to entertain the King, Queen or nobility. The dances would always be directed to the head of the room, who would be known as the “presence”. Jan told me that during the late 18th and early 19th century there was lots of chaperoneing going on so the dances were often the only opportunity for making contact with the opposite sex. As a consequence, there was lots of flirting taking place amongst younger people. Neil pointed out that gentlemen seized the opportunity to hold a lady’s hand and to speak to her. Towards the end of the Regency era (1811-1820) the waltz arrived in English society. It was a dance that was considered shocking due to the closeness and intimacy it demanded of the dancers, and it was banned in many European courts. The dances of the Victorian era reflect a time when the British Empire was at its height and the social scene was expanding to include mill owners and merchants. The waltz was now all the

rage, and Scottish country dances were much loved by the Queen. Some of the dance music had rather strange titles, Neil told me, such as “Lord Byron’s Maggots”! “Maggots” in this instance means fanciful whimsical notions and not white wriggling grubs. Entertaining to watch, informative and amusing especially when they invited members of the audience to take part in an impromptu court dancing lesson or two, the Arbeau Dancers suited the surroundings perfectly. In fact it was as if the Studley Royal Water

Gardens had been specially designed for them! “We are always on the lookout for new members”, were Jan and Neil’s departing words. Fancy having a go? ROY HAMPSON

Further Information Jan Liddle-Hulme, Peartree Cottage, 18 Crownest Lane, Bradford, Yorkshire BD16 4HL. Tel: 01274 566472 Website: www.arbeau.co.uk.

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Elswyth Thane

The American Author Devoted to England

A

merican novelist Elswyth Thane (1900-1984) published England Was An Island Once in 1940 to drum up support for Britain, to prove to her fellow citizens that their Mother Country was worth saving from a German invasion. “You in America,” she wrote, “how do you think it feels to live in a city not yet under fire but accessible by bombing from the air?” She feared that “more than the people who might be killed, a state of mind might die”. A passionate Anglophile, Elswyth was moved by the emergency measures she experienced first-hand on her 1938 trip, when Neville Chamberlain narrowly averted war at Munich, and by being caught in England at the start of war, to pen her first non-fiction book. She had already published an article, “When London Held Its Breath”, in the December 1938 issue of a popular American magazine. When she returned to England the following

The Sunken Garden at Kensington Palace. Elswyth recalled trenches being dug nearby as London prepared for war. PETER HERRING

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summer, she was cognisant of the dangers but determined. “There was no doubt this time about what I meant to do. I was writing this book.” But her book was more than a report on war preparations. “This is a record of England in her halcyon times as well as in her travail,” written because she “...felt it to be inconceivable that so much serenity and continuity and good sense could be in peril of its life.” Beginning in 1928, after she married William Beebe, one of America’s foremost naturalists, Elswyth spent every summer through to 1939 in England, researching historical fiction with British themes, while her husband mounted expeditions, often from a research station lent to him by Prince George, Duke of Kent. She admitted that “a deep-rooted, atavistic, indestructible love for England was haunting me long before I ever went there. On the brink of each of my summers in England, I have felt the way a properly indulged child feels on Christmas Eve.” The books and plays she wrote between 1928 and 1939 mirrored these feelings, with titles like The Tudor Wench, Young Mr. Disraeli, His Elizabeth, and Queen’s Folly. She even tried to “live as nearly as possible like an Englishwoman” while she visited, staying in flats — preferably in modern blocks in the Bayswater area of London — rather than a hotel.

Bright Lights Between Wars

“A small furnished flat,” she explained, “equipped with automatic refrigeration; a two-way radio set; electric fires; steam heat, and hot water.” She paid 10 shillings a week extra for a char. In 1938 and 1939 it was a Mrs. Richmond who she regarded very highly. Nearby Kensington Gardens was where she lounged in green canvas deck chairs (“which you can sit in all day for tuppence. These chairs, in this city of orderly Britons, are never snatched and seldom broken.”). She described listening to an afternoon concert at the Gardens’ bandstand or watching children fish for tiddlers in its Round Pond. She was also moved by the less fortunate children “from the Paddington slums, not clean, for baths in the buildings where they live are tuppence each extra and one tub of hot water does for the whole family in turn.” Among her pre-war experiences were a sevenpenny 1931 bus ride to Epping Forest and a 1932 Hunger Strike partially derailed by a “mushroom” fog (not as dense as a pea souper). The summer of 1934 was so hot it caused drought and her husband’s patron Prince George married Princess Marina. Elswyth spent part of her 1936 trip in a Buckinghamshire cottage. She remembered how 1937 was Coronation summer, following Edward VIII’s abdication (“England’s shock absorbers, the essential good temper and homogeny of her people, brought her through this.”) But her 1938 trip was mostly a waiting game, seeing if war would break out. Writing in 1940, she noted how “a great many of my days out of every summer since 1929 had been spent in the Reading Room of the British Museum. Little did I think, all those years, that I

The titles of Elswyth’s plays tell why an American’s works were produced in London’s West End: The Tudor Wench, Young Mr. Disraeli, Queen’s Folly. At a time of intense British interest in British history, these historical dramas quite literally fit the bill, no matter their author’s nationality. The Tudor Wench, which Elswyth researched during her 1932 trip, opened at the Embassy Theatre in October 1933, then moved to the Alhambra. Young Mr. Disraeli had its premiere at the Kingsway in 1934 and transferred to the Piccadilly Theatre. To a writer specialising in historical romances, Britain’s charismatic prime minister was the perfect subject. Disraeli not only looked like a fictional heart-throb in his youth, he also wrote romantic novels to earn badly needed money. The production’s star, Derrick de Marney, is unknown today but the play brought him to the attention of Alfred Hitchcock who cast him as the male lead in the 1937 film Young and Innocent. Elswyth visited a dozen great houses, including Compton Wynyates (pictured below), for Queen’s Folly. In the summer of 1939, the stage version “seemed on the point of getting somewhere at last…We were daring to look ahead.” But war soon dashed her hopes.

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‘ELSWYTH THANE’ (continued)

Above: Elswyth Thane and her husband Dr. William Beebe. Left: William (second left) and Elswyth (far right) with friends in Vermont, 1957.

would ever see the day the Museum itself was banked with sandbags against a possible aerial bombardment of London. That day came in September 1938.” “Sandbags were (also) going up round Burlington House, in the heart of Piccadilly, at St. Paul’s and the City churches, in Downing Street and Whitehall.” Sandbags were not the only war preparation Elswyth saw. “Traffic was complicated by trucks loaded with anti-aircraft guns and searchlights and Air Territorials.” Trenches were being dug near the Sunken Garden of Kensington Palace, beneath the windows of the Ritz Hotel, and in private squares. “Men have been digging all night by the light of motor lorry headlamps, flares, and improved searchlights,” she observed. Under her own windows work went on in the small hours to gas- and splinter-proof her apartment building and “certain Tube stations were being closed in London ‘for urgent structural alterations’ — which meant bomb-proofing.” Elswyth noticed ARP posters going up in banks and post offices, on stone walls and gateposts. Announcements about the procurement of gas masks were being made in churches, cinemas, and at sporting events. Precautions were not merely

material. “On September 12th we first heard a disturbing addition (to BBC news broadcasts) which at first puzzled us, an unintelligible mass of figures and nautical terms which had to do with the laying of mines in the North Seas, and was being given in code.” Despite all this Elswyth noticed very little scaremongering “even among the cheaper newspapers. In fact, the papers which held out the most hope sold the most copies.” On 21st September she visited Westminster Abbey, “open continuously for unbroken intercession and silent prayer, at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. There was no music, almost no sound….This was going on day and night without a break. The door was never closed, the candles went on burning.” At the urging of friends, Elswyth changed her original 15th October liner booking for a 30th September one. Ironically, Chamberlain and Hitler reached an accord the day before she sailed home. When Elswyth returned in 1939 — a gas mask packed in her hat box — she found that “the faces in the parks and restaurants and streets were normal and cheerful. London’s outward appearance was the same.” Ironically, “The London papers

Hither and Yon Although she was based in London, Elswyth frequently travelled through England, often with friends Dorothy and Percy Marmont, he was a well-known actor of the time. She was especially fond of British cathedrals, Winchester (“comforting, dependable, eternal, grand”) being her favourite. She knew its “tombs and chantries by heart”. At Wells (pictured right), she purposely sat in the Swan’s upstairs lounge because “its windows looked on the cathedral green”. In Salisbury Cathedral she waited until she saw “sunset fade from the windows of its great West Front”, then left through Harnham Gate because it led to a lane of high brick walls “overhung by heavy mingling sprays of jasmine and pink roses, pale in the slow twilight”. In describing Exeter Cathedral in 1938, Elswyth lovingly described its minstrel gallery, 1390 window, 1480 bell, and the 700-year-old clock. The next summer, as war loomed, she visited Gloucester Cathedral which she hadn’t seen since 1930. Given her close association with Disraeli, it’s not surprising that Elswyth would spend time at his haunts, like Bradenham Manor (where he and his father had lived) and Hughenden Manor, the Georgian house which Disraeli turned into an ultra-Gothic fantasy of battlements and pediments. She tried to imagine Dizzy’s reaction to the new “mechanical gambling game” in High Wycombe’s Red Lion Hotel and recounted how the interior of Beaconsfield’s Saracen’s Head “had been ‘improved’ to distraction for the benefit of the film trade from the studios nearby”.

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Always Time for Tea

were distinctly less alarming than the New York ones.” All the same, there were barrage balloons above Paddington Station and “all Hyde Park was being dug up, it seemed, for sandbags.” A trial blackout took place on 11th August. It was not compulsory so Elswyth reported how people gathered at Marble Arch and Piccadilly to sing until midnight and that Paddington Station was ablaze with light. Yet she also believed that “we were as ready as it was possible to be”, with free gas masks and shelters being provided for low-income Londoners. Elswyth herself attended a training session for air wardens. Although Americans were advised to leave on 22nd August, Elswyth stayed on, moving to Cheltenham which “felt as secure as any town in England could” and where she heard war declared, as she sat on a garden deck chair, “by the miracle of radio. We heard through an open window in the hotel smoking-room the voice of the Prime Minister in Downing Street.” The radio initially stole some of the thunder from newspapers, including the first Sunday Special Edition: “There were three words only: BRITAIN AT WAR. Trade was not brisk. There was little to add, at least as yet, to what we already knew.” Elswyth spent five weeks in a Cheltenham hotel but “the first two weeks of war crept past us with a sense of fantastic unreality. There was little to bring it home to us…the hotel garden dazzled in the sunlight.” But, soon enough, “the post office and the police station were sandbagged, and the big plate glass windows in the Promenade were taped in criss-cross patterns. The little green squares and the lawns in the public gardens were all dug up for trenches. Cinemas and theatres were closed” and the town was being filled with evacuees. Soon, too, British friends began hinting that her room, her food, even her gas mask, were needed by citizens. “With genuine hurt feelings I realised that I was, after all, an alien, and found it was wholly bewildering and sad. I didn’t really belong there. But I felt as though I did.” On her home-bound voyage, “we were limited to two pieces of stateroom luggage each, and one of these had to be my writing case.” There were six in her room, the ship held twice as many passengers as it was meant to, sat deep in the water and rolled since it also carried too much cargo. It took 12 days to reach New York from Southampton.

The Blitz began on 7th September 1940. England Was An Island Once was published on 18th September. Although Elswyth continued penning popular historical fiction, it always had an American setting, possibly because she already realised — as she wrote in 1940 — that “there is really nothing so sad as an old happiness. Sorrow can ease with time…but the memory of an old delight, a sunny hour that will never come again grows sharper with the passing of time.” Elswyth Thane published her final book in 1972 and died in 1984. FRANCINE KIRSCH RON GREGORY

Elswyth recounted London life as the country faced war. She later spent time in the Gloucestershire town of Cheltenham (below).

Elswyth’s English summers sometimes seem like a loving litany of tea times. In 1938 she basked in the friendly service of the oak-panelled George in Wells and also at the town’s Swan with a “smiling, white-aproned maid, laden silver tray, hot toast cakes, scalding, heavenly tea, at a table in the window. Wells never let you down.” Back in London, she sat under a big umbrella on the Hyde Park lawn among “a lot of well-dressed, smiling, chatting people drinking tea.” A year later, at The George in Shipston, tea included nine kinds of cake and strawberries while Gloucester’s New Inn (pictured below) “had a delicious, imperturbable tea with hot, buttered toast.” But while the “plentiful strawberry jam and thick brown bread-and-butter” at a Winchester Inn left her feeling that “all was right with the world”, she decried its pastries, “covered with an aggressive sort of icing”. From time to time she recounted other meals as when “at Guildford I met a truly noble cheese. It was a Stilton and it lived at the Angel. You will remember it often again, over a lump of hard Camembert in a gilded London hotel.”

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THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

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B

orn in 1879 at Bowdon near Altrincham in Cheshire, John Ireland had a sombre childhood because his father was 70 when he was born, 30 years older than his second wife with whom he had five children. John, being the youngest, was still only a youthful teenager when they died. Almost immediately, he entered the Royal College of Music where he studied piano and organ, then composition with Sir Charles Villers Stanford. While still only 17 he became sub-organist at Holy Trinity, Sloane Square, and from 1904 to 1926 was organist and choirmaster at nearby St. Luke’s, Chelsea. He was introspective by nature, and his music reflects deep thought and possibly solitude because, at 47, he married a student aged 17 but, unfortunately, their union did not last more than a couple of years. Thereafter he became a confirmed bachelor immersed in his music. Fascinated by landscapes, he composed many named pieces including

JOHN IRELAND several relating to the metropolis including Ballade of London Nights, London Pieces (Chelsea Reach, Ragamuffin, Soho Forenoons), Epic March (commemorating the London

Blitz), and his well-known London Overture which began as a test piece for the 1934 Crystal Palace Brass Band Championship called Comedy Overture which he later orchestrated as an image of post-war London. One of the composer’s more animated tunes, it begins with a jaunty sound based on a London bus conductor shouting “Dilly, Piccadilly”. A regular visitor to the Channel Isles, his musical tributes include The Island Spell and Phantasie plus Sarnia (Guernsey) and The Forgotten Rite (Jersey). He was evacuated shortly before the Nazi invasion in June 1940. Other atmospheric pieces include Mai Dun (Maiden Castle in Dorset), Legend, Downland Suite, Rhapsody, Amberley Wild Brooks and Cello Sonata all based on the South Downs to where he retired to live in a former windmill in West Sussex. His Concertino Pastorale was based on Deal in Kent and the Towing Path on the Thames Valley at Pangbourne in Berkshire.

Ireland retired to Rock Mill, an old windmill located near Washington in West Sussex (left). He often took walks on the adjacent South Downs where, while taking a picnic on Harrow Hill near Chanctonbury Ring (right), he once found himself surrounded by children silently dancing in ancient clothes. When he briefly looked away, however, they vanished, local legend declaring they were the last fairies to be seen in the country.

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“Amberley Wild Brooks”, one of Ireland’s many fine piano pieces, describes a beautiful wetland area on the River Arun in Sussex.

Ireland’s single venture into films was The Overlanders, a 1946 movie about Australian cattlemen who, in the face of a possible Japanese wartime invasion, drove hundreds of cattle 1,600 miles across the outback from Northern Territory to the relative safety of Queensland. Their leader was Chips Rafferty, whose film career came to a sad and premature end after he challenged a man to a fight. His opponent turned out to be a professional wrestler who did him serious damage from which he never recovered. John Ireland died in 1962, his huge output including chamber and orchestral music, dozens of piano pieces, songs, carols and anthems, including the hymn tunes, Chelsea and My Song is Love Unknown. Shy? Possibly but when Benjamin Britten arrived at the Royal School of Music, Ireland declared “Either the boy

The jaunty and delightful “London Overture” was inspired by a bus conductor’s call of “Dilly, Piccadilly”, which Ireland heard while travelling aboard a double-decker in the metropolis. The London Bus Museum is located at Brooklands near Weybridge in Surrey, and the website details are www. londonbusmuseum. com.

is awarded a scholarship or I resign.” He retained his job and Britten soon became famous. Introspective he may have been but what a musical legacy, which you can enjoy again via our boxed set of solo piano pieces offered at a special price. PETER WORSLEY

Further Information The John Ireland Trust was formed in 1968 to promote awareness of the composer’s works through recordings, performances and publications. For further information go to www. johnirelandtrust.org or you can email Karen Fletcher at [email protected].

THE PIANO WORKS OF JOHN IRELAND (3 CD set)

D

espite his name, John Ireland was fundamentally English and wrote tuneful works for all musical genres. After living in the Chelsea area of London for 40 years, he retired to Rock Mill, a converted windmill near Washington in West Sussex (opposite). Here he met the young pianist, Alan Rowlands, whom he encouraged to record all his delightful piano pieces. Here is your chance to buy this well-illustrated historic triple-CD at greatly reduced cost - to enjoy at home or in your car. THE 51 TRACKS INCLUDE: Chelsea Reach Ragamuffin Boy Bishop Sea Idyll Trees (several) Daydream Towing-Path Holy Boy Amberley Wild Brooks Summer Evening London Nights Sarnia etc. Code: CJIRE

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PRICE: £29.99 (inc. UK post). overseas by airmail £32.99; or US $66; Can $69; Aus $73; NZ $84.

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Christian England

CHURCH CURIOSITIES The Bishop’s Cat Flap, Exeter Cathedral, Devon

It was a game of cat and mouse in Exeter Cathedral. From 1305 to 1467 two cats were paid a penny a week to eradicate mice and rats from the north tower. A hole carved into the wooden door below the cathedral’s 13th-century astronomical clock allowed the dynamic duo access to hunt down rogue rodents. The pennies in question were used to reward the felines with an alternative menu. Perhaps the attraction of vermin to the cathedral’s ancient clock was not surprising as it was once maintained using animal fat. The famous timepiece could well have provided the inspiration for the nursery rhyme “Hickory dickory dock, the mouse ran up the clock”.

The Wig Protector, Church of St. Augustine, Brookland, Kent

It was not mice but the elements that troubled the parson of St. Augustine near Romney Marsh, Kent. In the 1700s the question arose of how to keep his wig dry when performing burials out on the marsh. The hairy problem was passed to the local carpenter who came up with a wooden “Hudd” which shielded the parson from sudden downpours. Happily the rare shelter survived the years and now stands in St. Augustine’s nave. A unique feature of the church is its octagonal wooden bell tower dating originally from the 11th century. Designed almost in Christmas tree fashion, it stands entirely separate from the main body of the church as it was feared its weight and that of its bells could not be supported by the surrounding marsh.

The Wheel of Fortune, Rochester Cathedral, Kent

There was not much protection from Lady Fortuna for the good people of Rochester Cathedral in the 1200s. A salutary message awaited from the Wheel of Fortune high on the wall near the choir. It is our good fortune to be able to see it today as it was hidden beneath layers of whitewash until restoration work in the early 1800s. Lady Fortuna herself stands boldly against a red background controlling the wheel’s orbit. She is usually shown holding a horn of plenty in one hand and a rudder in the other with which she steers her blessings as she chooses. The figures round the perimeter rise and fall as their fortunes are randomly dealt out. Only half of the wheel survives, the rest likely destroyed in the Civil War of the 1640s, but it remains an exquisite and rare medieval wall painting. The Wheel of Fortune, a metaphor for the world turning, was widely used to illustrate the futile pursuit of wealth and fame, and the uncertain and temporary nature of life.

The Miraculous Beam, Christchurch Priory, Hampshire

Fortune, however, favoured Christchurch Priory in Hampshire. Legend and miracles combined to change the ancient name of the town of “Twynham” to the present “Christchurch”. It concerns a mysterious carpenter who appeared when the priory was being built in the 11th century. He took no pay and ate no food. One evening the carpenters hoisted a beam into place only to find that it had been cut too short. It was lowered to the ground and the problem was pondered overnight. But in the morning it was not only of the correct length but had been fitted perfectly in place. The stranger was never seen again but was believed to be Christ the carpenter. The priory became known as “Christ’s Church”. “Twynham” eventually disappeared and the magnificent church is known today as Christchurch Priory. The Miraculous Beam was eventually fastened to the roof timbers of the south choir aisle to protect it from pilgrims who were not above slicing off little keepsakes. WENDY TURNER

IN THE CATHEDRAL CLOSE

In the cathedral close that afternoon The mellow English sunlight fell just so Across the step, and pausing to admire The chevroned arch and iron-bound oaken door, I saw instead the hollow in that stone, As if the block had melted in the warmth; Or carved crusader, risen from his slab, Had strolled once more upon the grass, and made That awkward place his pillow for a snooze. Canterbury Cathedral.

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Approaching, I observed how smooth the dip — Dark burnished blue, a bruise on honeyed stone — Where pilgrims’ feet had crossed the threshold wide. And I then placed my foot upon the step And laid my hand upon the oaken door And took my place among the throng within As Dunstan did a thousand years before. DAVID WEBB

Centenary of the First World War

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The Picture on the Wall

uring my pre-teen years there was a picture on my bedroom wall. It had always been there, it was part of the furniture. Then I had an attack of jaundice and spent hours looking at that picture on the wall. It was a photograph of a First World War soldier standing with his arms behind his back. I asked who he was, and was told he was my mother’s brother and that he was dead, killed like so many of his contemporaries at Ypres in 1915 shortly after the photograph was taken. I asked more questions and was shown other photographs; she was pleased at my interest in her late brother, yet saddened by the resurrection of memories of the years spent with him before the 1914-1918 war. There was a small collection of prints of him taken during happy pre-war years, photos of him in Eastbourne in 1911 with his girlfriend, and later shots of him in Army uniform. Before the war he had joined the London Rifle Brigade, a Territorial Army unit, one of the first drafted to France and Flanders when war erupted. There was a poignant shot with seven other soldiers, taken in a studio “somewhere in France” (actually near Ypres). After months of the rigours of war they looked somewhat strained. Their faces were focused; all with half smiles, the date written on the photo

in my uncle’s neat handwriting (he is in the middle row on the left) was only days before his death. I wondered if any of the others survived. Originally I thought of them as mature men, but now realise they were little older than I was in those days, mere boys seven or eight years my senior, although my uncle was 27 at the time of his death, older than many young boys who were cannon fodder in 1914-18. My interest aroused, I read many books about this terrible war and the effect it had on virtually every family in Britain. Many in the trenches were teenagers, immature and ill-prepared for what they experienced; some, shattered by incessant shelling, buckled under the strain and were castigated or even shot as cowards by a High Command with little cognisance of the effects of shell shock that we take for granted today. Thankfully there are instances where public outcry has resulted in many young “cowards” being rehabilitated, their names belatedly inserted onto war memorials. Another upsetting aspect was that not only did youngsters have to endure shellfire, ricocheting bullets, poison gas and cloying mud, they also had to face sniping on the home front. Young women frequently waylaid young men in the street who weren’t in uniform and handed them white feathers. In some cases the recipients were schoolboys, soldiers on leave or merchant seamen, the last mentioned more in the front line than anyone due to the devastating carnage wrought by U-boats. Did it ever occur to these young women to enrol in the nursing services to look after the wounded? Probably not! One day I discovered a photograph of a heaped up pile of earth. I asked one of my aunts what this represented. She said it was of my uncle’s grave, sent from the front by one of his comrades. When my grandmother died aged 96, many old photos disappeared, including this one, victims of the unintended vandalism when relatives clear out the family home. Like many of his comrades at Ypres, the location

of my uncle’s grave is unknown, though his name appears on the Menin Gate. His remains were lost for ever amongst the earth pulverised by shellfire, weather and earthworks. For years his fate was never far from my mind, though with the passing of years this became less acute. Yet I have found that it can be reawakened whenever First World War songs are played, many exemplified in that cynical film directed by Richard Attenborough Oh! What a Lovely War. Many tunes, even hymns, were adapted by the fighting forces who incorporated their own words, frequently profane but nonetheless appropriate for men who were being shelled, shot at and living knee-deep in water. Two songs are particularly moving, one based on the hymn “What a friend we have in Jesus”. The trench version begins “When this lousy war is over, No more soldiering for me…” Ironically these words were more relevant than the originals for the circumstances in which they found themselves, surrounded by sudden death, exploding shells and mud. This was incorporated in Oh! What a Lovely War, as was “The Bells of Hell go Ting-a-ling-a-ling”, a song rendered even more poignant as the visual scene in the film is of a mass grave being filled in by soldiers before they are marched back to the line singing this song. The scene brings back vividly that lost photograph of my uncle’s grave at Ypres. I emailed that wall picture image to many family members on the 100th anniversary of the death of William George Charles, my uncle, killed on 27th April 1915. It was the least I could do to keep his memory alive and the memories of that dreadful conflict that killed so many and resolved so little. Its utter futility was demonstrated by the subsequent conflict that erupted in 1939. RAY SCOTT

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Portrait of a Village

The Longest Village in England

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n the B4042 road between Royal Wootton Bassett and Malmesbury in Wiltshire lies England’s longest village. The parish of Brinkworth encompasses two tithings: Brinkworth to the north and the hamlet of Grittenham to the south. Claimed to be the longest village in England, it is just over four miles between boundary posts. Another claim to fame for the village is that Hill End Farm is the only cheesemaker in North Wiltshire. Curiously, the outline of the parish is similar in shape to the continent of Africa. The only transportation link to the village is by road, the railway station having been closed in 1961. Passing along the southern tip of Brinkworth is the Wilts and Berks Canal which is undergoing an ambitious restoration by a group of volunteers. Brinkworth appears in the Domesday Book where it is listed as having nine villagers, three slaves, 18 cottagers and 13 other population. The name Brinkworth probably derives from the Old English “Brynca’s farmstead”, and Grittenham is believed to mean “gravelly enclosure”.

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Brinkworth may have a name in common with Brinklow in Warwickshire which is thought to have derived from “Brynca’s Low” — a motte-and-bailey castle site. Nowadays, Brinkworth is a well-to-do semi-rural village consisting of typical village buildings, several farms and a mix of housing built in recent centuries. It has a population of 1,300. And yet, a little over 200 years ago half the people in the parish were paupers. Consequently, there was a lot of poor relief in the parish during the first half of the 19th century; the parish helped over 100 people emigrate to Quebec in Canada. Most of the village buildings and amenities are clustered on a stretch of the B4042 from which there’s an expansive view south to the M4 motorway and beyond. My first job after leaving university was in Malmesbury. On the daily commute from Swindon, passing through Brinkworth an occasional but memorable sight was a Hercules transport aircraft from nearby RAF Lyneham (now closed as an airbase) flying low over fog-shrouded land below the escarpment.

Only one pub remains in the village. The Suffolk Arms, not far from Callow Hill, recently closed and stands abandoned. In contrast, the Three Crowns which has stood for over two centuries still thrives thanks to its reputation for good food. Outside this pub a red telephone box has been given an ingenious new use as a book exchange where people can borrow, donate or swap books. Two village residents started a weekly market in 2009 as a place for people to meet and buy goods as Brinkworth doesn’t have a shop — not even a post office. The market has been very successful, even attracting stallholders and shoppers from neighbouring villages. One of the largest buildings in the village is Brinkworth House which was built on land owned by Malmesbury Abbey for several centuries. Built over a 10-year period beginning in 1871, it was originally known as Clitchbury House and had three storeys. A fire in the early 20th century reduced it to two storeys. In recent times it was extended, incorporating a glass atrium between the original building and the extension. It operates as a business centre providing offices and meeting rooms. Across the road from Brinkworth House can be found Woodbridge Park Golf Club (formerly Brinkworth Golf Club). The golf course, which sits in 150 acres, comprises an 18-hole course and a six-hole pitch and putt course. Along with the village itself, the golf club is situated on land that until the year 1300 was known as Braydon Forest — a royal hunting forest. Over the next 300 years the forest shrank substantially as sections were sold off; a few woods

Above: Brinkworth House has been extended and converted to a business centre, while the old telephone box (far left) is now a book exchange. St. Michael and All Angels church (left), one of the concrete anti-invasion cylinders (below) and Brinkworth Brook (right).

scattered around the area are the remnants. Turning off the main road and heading south over the railway one comes to Brinkworth Brook, known locally as Thunder Brook, a tributary of Bristol’s River Avon. Here anti-invasion measures from the Second World War can be found in the form of concrete cylinders designed to hinder invading German tanks. These cylinders were part of a series of defences in the south of England (pillboxes, tank traps, tank obstacles) called stop lines. Stop Line Red, of which the Brinkworth defences are part, ran from Great Somerford in Wiltshire to Tilehurst in Berkshire. In 1824 the preacher Samuel Heath brought Primitive Methodism, an offshoot of Wesleyan Methodism, to Brinkworth. Meetings were first held in houses until a chapel could be built a few years later, by which time Brinkworth was the centre of a circuit. Despite persecution — it’s reported that in nearby Malmesbury windows of a preaching room were repeatedly broken — this form of Methodism spread in Wiltshire. Two Primitive Methodist chapels can be found in Brinkworth, though neither are in use as places of worship anymore. The larger of the two is in Barnes Green on the B4042 opposite a farmhouse. Built of stone, the chapel dates back to 1828 and originally seated 22 people. Later renovations to the floor and the addition of a gallery in 1839

multiplied the seating capacity tenfold to 230. For some time the building has been a private house, as has the adjacent rectory. The Grittenham chapel fared less well. A small structure made from corrugated iron, it has been derelict and overgrown for many years. It was well attended until the Second World War, but fell out of favour after the war and closed in the 1950s. The Anglican church of St. Michael and All Angels is the main church in the village. Dating back to 1360, with

evidence of a building from 1151, it holds regular Sunday services and hosts the weekly market. The longest village in England is more than just a pleasant place to drive through between its larger and more well-known neighbours. Visitors to the area should give this village, with its strong sense of community and history, a second look. DENE BEBBINGTON

A gathering at the Primitive Methodist Chapel in the late 19th century.

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A collection of customs, curiosities and coming events Homecoming for a Hero’s Medals

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he wartime medals of a Battle of Britain hero have come “home” to the UK, thanks to the generosity of an Australian couple who flew them halfway around the world. Flight Lieutenant Charles “Tich” Palliser, one of “the Few”, died in 2011 after spending the last decades of his life in Australia. His daughter Gill felt his medals, including the DFC and the Battle of Britain clasp — awarded only to those who saw service in the historic aerial battle of 1940 — should be returned to Britain and kept safe for future generations. Thanks to Facebook, she was in touch with the Battle of Britain Memorial Trust, the charity responsible for the National Memorial to the Few at Capel-le-Ferne in Kent, and offered the medals to the Trust for safekeeping. The Trust was delighted with the offer, but the practicalities

were daunting. Gill, who lives in Melbourne, didn’t want to trust the post with her precious cargo and even consulted the British Consulate for advice on sending the medals safely to Kent. At that point her good friends Colin and Faye Murphy revealed that they were planning a golden wedding anniversary trip to Britain and Europe — and offered to bring the medals with them. With the medals still wrapped in the three handkerchiefs Tich himself had used to keep them safe inside their leather pouch, the couple — who had been close friends of the pilot who flew both Hurricanes and Spitfires during the war — brought the package to London. They met the Trust Chairman, Richard Hunting CBE, at the RAF Club and handed the medals over to him for safekeeping. “This was a splendid gesture by Gill to offer the Trust her father’s medals, which I know meant a great deal to her,” Richard said. “We are also

Richard Hunting CBE, Chairman of the Battle of Britain Memorial Trust (left), with Faye and Colin Murphy who safely delivered a set of treasured medals from Australia.

incredibly grateful to Colin and Faye for bringing this precious cargo halfway around the world. “Gill and her friends can be assured that the Trust will take very great care of the medals and will continue to make sure that the story of Tich and his brave colleagues continues to be told long into the future.“ Faye said it had been “a pleasure to help make Gill’s dream become a reality and an absolute privilege to bring Tich’s medals back home to England”. For further information on the Trust visit the website: www. battleofbritainmemorial.org .

Monkeys might not feature among the usual wildlife in Cambridgeshire, but one thatcher couldn’t resist adding one to this roof!

Monkeying Around in Cambridgeshire!

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hrough the ages craftsmen have been accustomed to adding some form of personal signature to their work. The builder engaged on a great house discreetly left his mason’s mark, perhaps only to be seen centuries later by one of his successors engaged on repair and restoration. Wood and stone carvers might cheekily incorporate a less than holy image amongst the

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cherubs they were employed to decorate a cathedral. Thatchers completing their task added a final touch with their own special signature — a thatch bird. Often enough it would be a pheasant, an owl or a squirrel, but in the Cambridgeshire village of Histon there seems to be a rather less common figure enjoying the open-air life. Look up and you’ll see a monkey patrolling along the ridge of a house! DAVID HUNTER

Statues for British Comedy Greats

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ew statues commemorating some of Britain’s best-loved comedians have been making the news in the past few months — and reviving many laughter-filled memories. The legendary duo of Morecambe and Wise, who brought us so much sunshine over the decades, have been honoured with a statue in the foyer of the Winter Gardens in Blackpool. It was unveiled, last October, by Eric’s wife, Joan, his son Gary and daughter Gail, together with a representative from Ernie’s family. The statue, the first to feature both comedians together, was commissioned to mark the 75th anniversary of the double-act’s first stage appearance in 1941. The Lancashire resort is the perfect location for the tribute as Morecambe and Wise performed in the town more than 1,000 times during their career. Standing eight-feet tall, the statue was sculpted by Graham Ibbeson and funded by donations. A similar tribute is planned for the comedian Victoria Wood who died last April. In July her brother, Chris FooteWood, announced plans for a

statue in Bury where he and his sister grew up. He has the backing of the council and a fundraising appeal for the statue on the Justgiving website (https://www.justgiving.com/ crowdfunding/chris-footewood) is nearing its £30,000 target. Among the generous donations received was one of £1,000 from the Oscar-winning actress Dame Judi Dench. Following a public vote, the statue will depict Victoria as the long-suffering canteen supervisor, Bren, from the popular BBC comedy Dinnerladies, which she created and wrote. It is intended that the statue will be completed later this year.

Conflicting Claims for Lifeboat’s Inventor

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he story of the invention of one of the first-ever lifeboats — the Original — is surrounded in controversy. Built in 1789 the actual design of the lifeboat is acknowledged as being the work of William Wouldhave, born in North Shields in 1751. However, Wouldhave’s claim was challenged by Henry Greathead who also made a submission claiming recognition for another craft. Wouldhave, a parish clerk and a man of little finance, had his claim supported by a Mr. Hailes, a local mathematician who was familiar with marine engineering. Wouldhave’s boat was made of copper and cork which made it buoyant. In contrast, Greathead’s craft was a rectangular boat that was reputed to be a copy of an American troop carrier and totally unsuitable for the rough and unpredictable waters off the North-East coast. Although Henry Greathead went on to build the Original, and was rewarded for his work at the time, he did include many of Wouldhave’s design features. Many now recognise Wouldhave’s vital contribution to the design of lifeboats. William Wouldhave died in the town in 1821. A restored 1833 lifeboat — the Tyne — stands proudly today as a memorial, to the efforts of both men, on the sea front in South Shields. History would record that the first-ever lifeboat was built by John Lionel Lukin in 1784; his gravestone states that he received the King’s patent for his invention. JOHN PATTISON

The restored Tyne lifeboat and the clock at South Shields, in County Durham, commemorate the town’s association with the invention of the lifeboat.

English Bells to Chime in Flanders Fields

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fundraising appeal has been launched to install a commemorative peal of bells in the tower of an Anglican church close to the First World War battlefields. St. George’s Memorial Church in the Belgian town of Ypres (now Ieper) was built in the late 1920s as a place of remembrance and to serve the British community in the area. Those who now visit the battlefields also come to pay their respects at the church. The tower at St. George’s was originally designed to house a peal of English change ringing bells, but sadly this was never realised. Now, permission has been granted to finally complete this precious and poignant memorial church. Eight individually inscribed bells will be cast and installed by the renowned bell-

maker John Taylor & Co of Loughborough. In order to achieve this, the charity Bells4StGeorgeYpres has been established to raise £195,000 for the project. This will allow English bells to ring out across Flanders Fields at certain times, while being mindful of the necessary periods of silence in the memorial church. The project has also received a cherished donation: a set of 16 Victorian handbells, which belonged to a First World War veteran. Once they have been restored at the Whitechapel Bell Foundry they will be housed in St. George’s. To find out more about this worthwhile project and how to make a donation visit: www. bells4stgeorge.org , or contact Alan Regin, 39 Maud Road, London E13 0JT. Is it a case of double measures at this pub in London? Read on to discover more. PETER HERRING

Seeing Double at The Ship and Shovell?

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o, your eyes do not deceive you! If you look at the picture below you will see that The Ship and Shovell pub, near Charing Cross Station, London, is in two separate buildings on opposite sides of Craven Passage, a pedestrian walkway. Fortunately, the two halves of this Grade-II listed hostelry are connected by a cellar underneath. Dating back to Victorian times, the inn takes its curious name from the Admiral of the Fleet, Sir Cloudesley Shovell.

Folklore and Fun in Flirty February

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an you find the common link between an ancient Roman lottery, a martyred priest, Mrs. Samuel Pepys and a bay leaf? The giveaway clue is a day in February. There you have it immediately because the only day in the month worthy of note is, of course, Valentine’s Day. On the 14th day of this month hearts beat a little faster and some unfortunately break. This isn’t merely a modern phenomenon — it has been the regular state of affairs for the best part of 2,000 years. The tradition appears to have started in Ancient Rome when young people took part in the Festival of Lupercalia. This was in honour of the goddess Februate Juno and was celebrated on More ‘CORNUCOPIA’ overleaf THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

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alongside a modern replica. This shows what the original garland may have looked like when it was first made. Historian Rosie Morris, who was born in Minsterley, attended Sunday School at Holy Trinity and used to gaze up in wonder at the strange-looking objects suspended from iron hooks. She decided to research maiden’s garlands as a dissertation topic for her final year of degree study at Birmingham University, and delved even deeper into the subject when she embarked on a PhD. Rosie says: “Holy Trinity became an early tourist attraction during the latter part of the 19th century because of the garlands. They are fine examples

‘CORNUCOPIA’ (continued) 15th February. The girls put their names, or a token, into a love urn, the boys took a lucky dip and the resulting couples paired off. It was a kind of primitive mating game and one that proved quite unacceptable when the old pagan religion was replaced by Christianity. Gradually pagan festivals were Christianised and their dates associated, as closely as possible, with events on the Christian calendar. The popular Festival of Lupercalia fell conveniently close to the martyrdom of a Roman priest on 14th February 273 AD. His name was Valentine and in the process of time Februato Juno’s festival fell out of fashion to be replaced by St. Valentine’s Day. St. Valentine was a noted celibate, a man of considerable courage who helped fellow Christians escape from Rome and death in the arena. He was captured, tortured, clubbed to death and finally beheaded. However, old habits die hard and St. Valentine’s name is now almost synonymous with Cupid’s which, to the unfortunate saint, might have seemed like a fate worse than death. The Festival of Lupercalia has survived into the 21st century in a modified but remarkably similar form. Romantic expectations are still high and the element of chance remains because traditionally the first man a woman happens to see on that day is her Valentine. This is where Samuel Pepys’ wife comes into the story. Desperate in case the first person she saw on St. Valentine’s Day was one of the painters decorating her house, she went about with her hands covering her eyes. One hopes that Samuel put in an early appearance! Naturally it was the Victorians who introduced Valentine cards. Ideally suited to the times these anonymous cards, delivered by Penny Postage, gave young men a chance to speak of love when more direct advances would not have been socially acceptable. Covered in velvet, lace and satin ribbons, with a secret panel containing a message for her eyes only, such cards must have provoked many a lovesick sigh in the tightly laced Victorian breast. To ensure that she would know who sent such a token of love any young woman worthy of her smelling salts would pin a bay leaf to her pillow the night before. This was bound to cause

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Holy Trinity Church in Minsterley, Shropshire (above), is home to a nationally important and intriguing collection of 18th-century maiden’s garlands (right).

her to dream of her Valentine. A tip you may well decide to put to the test if you can find a bay tree. MARION CARAGOUNIS

Treasures in a Shropshire Church

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aded, yellowing wreaths found in a handful of parish churches remind us of a oncepopular custom to mark the death of an unmarried woman or young girl. Maiden’s garlands were crown-shaped structures placed on the coffin or carried in the funeral procession. They were decorated with flowers, ribbons

and gloves, which represented a challenge to those who doubted the maiden’s reputation or virginity. After the ceremony the garlands were put in the grave or, more commonly, hung in the church where they remained as poignant reminders of lives lost. No fewer than seven such tributes — also known as crowns — can be found in Holy Trinity Church in the village of Minsterley, Shropshire. The garlands, which date from the 18th century, are regarded as nationally important. Six of them hang over the west gallery, while the seventh is on display

A vintage postcard capturing love’s young dream! The Victorians introduced the idea of sending cards to sweethearts on St. Valentine’s Day.

of 18th-century skill, ingenuity and pride. The embossed papers used in the flowers and rosettes which cover the wooden frames are common to each garland and were probably taken from 18th-century wallpaper sample books.” She adds: “The garlands at Minsterley are of national importance as they represent a snapshot in time of the long 18th century, politically, socially and theologically. “Minsterley also had a unique custom involving those who were betrothed to marry but lost their love through early death. If they remained true to their betrothed and didn’t marry anyone else, they went on to receive a crown at their own funeral.” The earliest of the garlands is from 1726 and the latest from 1794. Elsewhere in Shropshire, a maiden’s garland commemorates Hannah Phillips who drowned on the eve of her wedding in 1707 while crossing the River Severn by ferry. The garland is to be found in the Church of St. Calixtus at Astley Abbotts, where she was to have been married. The oldest surviving garland in the country was made in 1680 and is displayed at St. Mary’s Church in Beverley, Yorkshire. In most parts of England the garlands were specifically for

Famous Dinosaur Heading Your Way!

women, but some were made for men or young boys. Holy Trinity Church at Minsterley, Shropshire SY5 0BA, is open in daylight hours each day for people to visit and view the garlands. For more details about maiden’s garlands visit Rosie Morris’s website: www. maidensgarlands.com .

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LYNNE HAYWARD

Blenheim Palace — A Treasured Destination

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ecognised as a World Heritage Site, with more than 300 years of history, Blenheim Palace in the Oxfordshire village of Woodstock is one of England’s most impressive treasure houses as well as the birthplace of the country’s greatest prime minister, Sir Winston Churchill. The palace, which was designed for the 1st Duke of Marlborough by Sir John Vanbrugh, was built to celebrate the Allied victory over the French and Bavarians at the Battle of Blenheim in 1704. It is a supreme example of Baroque architecture and is surrounded by a 2,000-acre parkland designed by Capability Brown. A visit to Blenheim is a fascinating journey through three centuries of history. Inside there is the chance to discover exciting contemporary artworks, tapestries and learn all about the life of the family, the staff and the history of the Palace together with the military victory which led to its construction. In the Long Library visitors will see more than 10,000 books including many first editions and rare finds. At 183 feet long, the library is the second longest room in a private house in the country. The special Winston Churchill Exhibition begins in the very room in which the future prime minister was born and includes many photographs, letters, artefacts and treasures providing a detailed and immersive look at the great Briton’s life. To find out opening times and visitor information go to: www.blenheimpalace.com . Blenheim Palace is a member of the Treasure Houses of England, 10 of the most magnificent palaces, stately homes and castles in England. More details about the other sites can be found at: www.treasurehouses.co.uk .

The magnificent Saloon, with its opulent walls and ceiling, at Blenheim Palace in Oxfordshire. The ancestral home of the Dukes of Marlborough is a World Heritage Site and well worth a visit.

Charity Care for Cotswold Church

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medieval church in the Cotswolds has become the 350th to be taken under the care of the Churches Conservation Trust. St. Kenelm’s Church near Cirencester in Gloucestershire has been added to the collection of the national charity which protects historic churches at risk. St. Kenelm’s is renowned for its extraordinary collection of ornate memorials dating from the 15th and 16th centuries and its unusual Jacobean carved woodwork. The churchyard is also the resting place of Ernest and Sidney Barnsley, leaders of the Arts and Crafts Movement. The church lies in a picturepostcard location in the Cotswold village of Sapperton. The Churches Conservation Trust will now work closely with local people to ensure the church is regularly open to visitors and continues as a social, educational and cultural space in the village.

The charity also plans to work with local partners to promote the church as a heritage site where visitors, holidaymakers and special interest groups can learn more about the building’s remarkable artistry and history. St. Kenelm’s remains consecrated and open for private worship but, in accordance with Church of England rules, it will have only a limited number of services a year.

or many visitors to London’s Natural History Museum, probably the most famous exhibit is the immense skeleton of the diplodocus dinosaur, known as “Dippy”, which dominates the main entrance hall. This year the plaster-cast model, which measures 69 feet in length, is temporarily leaving the capital to embark on a nationwide tour. Dippy will start his incredible journey by going on display at Dorset County Museum, followed by other venues including: Birmingham Museum; Great North Museum, Newcastle; Number One Riverside, Rochdale; and Norwich Cathedral. The touring exhibition will last until 2020, but staff at the Natural History Museum are keen to stress that their most popular exhibit will return to his London home and continue to appear as a star attraction. During Dippy’s absence, his prominent position will be filled by an equally impressive exhibit: the skeleton of a blue whale, which is more than 100 years old. The four and a half ton creature was beached at Wexford in Ireland and was acquired by the Museum in 1881. It first went on show there in 1935. In its new display it will be dramatically suspended in its diving pose above the heads of visitors in the entrance hall. The exhibit changes are part of a major front-of-house makeover for the Natural History Museum. For further details see: www. nhm.ac.uk .

The Natural History Museum in London is unveiling its new entrance display, while one of its best-loved exhibits goes on a nationwide tour. DOROTHY BURROWS

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Unless stated at the end of the review, books featured on these pages are not available direct from This England. For details of books that can be ordered from us, please see page 85. LIVES OF THE GREAT GARDENERS

by Stephen Anderton (Thames & Hudson £24.95) ISBN 9780-5005-18564

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howcasing more than 500 years of gardens, this large well-illustrated volume tells the story of 40 gardeners from 13 different countries. As one might expect, they include Lancelot “Capability” Brown, Vita Sackville-West, Rosemary Verey, Humphrey Repton, Sir Edward Lutyens, Gertrude Jekyll, Claude Monet, Sir Roy Strong, Christopher Lloyd and Beth Chatto. The photos and illustrations are excellent and everyone who likes domestic landscapes will enjoy it. (304pp, hardback)

CAMPING

Explore the Great Outdoors with Family and Friends by Don Philpott (National Trust £12.99) ISBN 9781-9098-81822

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superb and wonderfully illustrated guide on where to go, what tents and equipment to take, and how to get the best natural experience. (224pp, paperback)

ENGLAND’S HISTORIC CHURCHES BY TRAIN by Murray Naylor (Pen & Sword £25) ISBN 9781-4738-71427

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companion volume to England’s Cathedrals by Train, this equally fine publication has a great deal to offer any itinerant railway traveller or transport enthusiast interested in ecclesiastical history. The 32 carefully selected churches are covered in 18 regional chapters, backed up by excellent notes on both the railways and on the history and architecture of the churches themselves. The photos also cover the railways and the whole enterprise is unusual and satisfying. (214pp, hardback)

St. Andrew’s Church, Cullompton in Devon (see England’s Historic Churches by Train).

THE RAILWAY

British Track Since 1804 by Andrew Dow (Pen & Sword £40) ISBN 9781-4738-22573

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his massive tome is the swan-song of a late author who was once Head of the National Railway Museum at York. It is not about railways per se but a comprehensive history of the track on which they ran. (460pp, hardback)

SPITALFIELDS

The History of a Nation in a Handful of Streets by Dan Cruickshank (Random House £35) ISBN 9781-8479-47079

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Vita Sackville-West’s garden at Sissinghurst Castle, near Cranbrook in Kent, receives more visitors than any other garden in Britain (see Lives of the Great Gardeners).

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huge academic in-depth study which will appeal to social historians and urban geographers. The author knows his trade and includes in print what he describes on his television programmes. (764pp, hardback)

THE RATION BOOK DIET

by Mike Brown, Carol Harris and C.J. Clarkson (History Press £14.99) ISBN 9780-7509-68225

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delightful book explaining what food was available and how to cook it during the Second World War. With excellent illustrations and recipes this is a treat for all who like the culinary arts. (144pp, hardback) The Ration Book Diet is available by post from This England. For further details see page 85.

BRADSHAW’S CONTINENTAL RAILWAY GUIDE by George Bradshaw (Collins £20) ISBN 9780-0082-01272

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e can thank Michael Portillo for bringing the Bradshaw guides back to life via his Great Continental Railway Journeys on television and here is a reproduction of the 1853 version, complete with timetables, maps, illustrations and adverts. A remarkable publication, it dates back to a time when Prussia and Germany were two separate countries. Packed full of fascinating information it is also very reasonably priced for such a large volume. (400pp, hardback)

SOUTH

The Illustrated Story of Shackleton’s Last Expedition 1914-1917 by Sir Ernest Shackleton with photographs by Frank Hurley (Zenith £25) ISBN 9780-7603-50256 A famous wartime slogan (see The Ration Book Diet).

ANCIENT TREES OF THE NATIONAL TRUST by Edward Parker and Brian Muelaner (National Trust £25) ISBN 9781-8575-99442

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nhanced by modern colour photography this is the original story of an ill-fated polar expedition which could so easily have ended in total disaster. It is an amazing account, and we can only

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ow much do we know about the age of the trees around us? Probably very little when it comes to really old ones, so this large volume is a fascinating introduction as to what to look for and where to find it. Copiously illustrated with many fine colour images, it is a must for those keen on the countryside and a treat for all interested in arboriculture. (190pp, hardback)

The White Star Line was Cunard’s main trans-Atlantic rival before the First World War (see The Big Four).

marvel at the bravery of the men who survived atrocious freezing conditions, not to mention the epic voyage of the small boat James Caird which, following the loss of the Endurance, navigated its way to South Georgia and eventually set up a successful rescue attempt for those stranded back on the Antarctic ice sheet. (382pp, hardback)

PRINCE ARTHUR

by Sean Cunningham (Amberley £20) ISBN 9781-4456-47661 The James Caird setting off from Elephant Island to sail 800 miles to South Georgia to seek help for those left stranded (see South).

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e should have had King Arthur but he died so we got Henry VIII instead! This is the Tudor king who never was. (270pp, hardback)

THE BIG FOUR OF THE WHITE STAR FLEET Celtic, Cedric, Baltic and Adriatic by Mark Chirnside (History Press £25) ISBN 9780-7509-65972

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recursors to the larger Titanic, Olympic and Britannic, these four ships carried one and a half million passengers across the North Atlantic for a combined total of 110 years. Celtic and Cedric served as armed merchant cruisers in the First World War and this is the quartet’s illustrated story. (194pp, hardback)

FROM JOURNEY’S END TO THE DAM BUSTERS The Life of R.C Sherriff, Playwright of the Trenches by Roland Wales (Pen & Sword £25) ISBN 9781-4738-60698

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Ancient wood pasture on the fringes of Ullswater in the Lake District, a scene which has changed very little in more than 5,000 years (see Ancient Trees).

he play Journey’s End was performed everywhere during the inter-war years but there was much more to the author than that, and you can read all about him in this welcome new biography. In total he wrote 18 plays, 15 film scripts and several novels. No mean achievement! (388pp, hardback)  THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

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‘ENGLISH BOOKS’ (continued)

DRAWN FROM HISTORY

A Cartoon Journey Through Britain’s Past by James Mellor (Filament Publishing £9.99) ISBN 9781-9114-25168

THE CALL UP

A Study of National Service in Peacetime Britain by Phil Carradice (Fonthill £18.99) ISBN 9781-7815-55262

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great book which will have you chuckling out loud as you browse dozens of splendidly witty cartoons. (128pp, paperback)

f you did National Service then this is the book for you. Even if you didn’t it is still an interesting read. (224pp, hardback)

LANDSCAPE PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE YEAR — Collection 10

THE WORCESTER AND BIRMINGHAM CANAL by Rev. Alan White (Brewin £25) ISBN 9781-8585-85567

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n excellent study of a busy former industrial waterway which served the Black Country and surrounding areas well. (392pp, hardback)

The Cutty Sark tea clipper under full sail off China (see A History of Sailing in 100 Objects).

Was the great bard who we think? Many believe that only a better-educated man could have written his plays and in Sir Henry Neville was Shakespeare, John Casson and William Rubinstein assess the evidence. (Amberley, 320pp, paperback, £14.99) ISBN 9781-4456-54669 Now in its sixth edition The Complete Encyclopedia of Horse Racing by Bill Mooney and George Senior will please all equine fans. (Carlton, 256pp, hardback, £14.99) ISBN 9781-7809-77652

An unusual night time shot of Central London with Canary Wharf clearly visible in the background (see Landscape Photographer of the Year).

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Operation Big, The Race to Stop Hitler’s A-Bomb by Colin Brown is an unusual story which will appeal to all military historians. (Amberley, 288pp, hardback, £20) ISBN 9781-4456-51842 In Made on the Isle of Wight, David Williams relates several inventions, including the hovercraft (below), jet-engined cars, rockets, flying boats, satellites, helicopters, etc. Well presented with many fine archive photos. (History Press, 222pp, paperback, £20) ISBN 9780-7509-67549

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(AA £25) ISBN 9780-7495-78268

here is something here for everyone whether rural, urban or all places in between. Many are picture postcard scenes and all are atmospheric. (224pp, hardback)

A History of Sailing in 100 Objects by Barry Pickthall is a potpourri of all things nautical with informative text supporting each picture and illustration. (Bloomsbury, 224pp, hardback, £20) ISBN 9780-7611-69086

The Victoria Letters by Helen Rappaport is the official companion to the television drama (right) and delves into the private writings of the young Queen Victoria who ascended to the throne as a rebellious teenager but grew into a regal icon. Splendidly illustrated there is much here to please everyone. (Harper Collins, 302pp, hardback, £20) ISBN 9781-7809-77652

In a kaleidoscope of brilliant colours Football Infographics will appeal to all soccer lovers. Described as “The beautiful game in brilliant detail” this is a large-format survey and analysis of trends, statistics and data, the like of which you have never seen before. (Carlton, 174pp, hardback, £25) ISBN 9781-7809-77720

Tony Ward is a raconteur and poet, and in Unravelling Sussex, Around the County in Riddles, he cleverly portrays people, places and things in verse, illustration and prose. (History Press, 192pp, paperback, £12.99) ISBN 9781-4456-49863

The 1953 hit movie, “Genevieve”, starred Dinah Sheridan (top left), John Gregson (top right), Kenneth More and Kay Kendall (see A Darracq Called Genevieve).

Anyone alive in 1953 could not possibly avoid knowing the film “Genevieve” in which two veteran car drivers race each other from London to Brighton, and then back again. In Rodney Laredo’s A Darracq Called Genevieve, the Story of Veteran Motoring’s Most Famous Car you can read all about what happened behind the scenes. (Veloce, 160pp, hardback, £30) ISBN 9781-7871-10076 In Steamship Travel in the Interwar Years, historians Lorraine Coons and Alexander Varias open a window into the bygone age of travel when large liners roamed the seas carrying tourists to all points of the globe. Strict protocol, however, existed between the different classes. (Amberley, 160pp, paperback, £9.99) ISBN 9781-4456-49863

The VC is the nation’s highest award for gallantry in face of the enemy and in Victoria Cross Heroes, Vol. II, we read about some of the more modern acts of bravery amongst the 200 VCs owned by Lord Ashcroft. It is the largest private collection in the world, and we should be pleased they have been preserved for posterity. (Biteback, 374pp, hardback, £25) ISBN 9781-7859-00976 The Complete Uxbridge English Dictionary has been “comprehensively reviled”! In other words, this is the latest edition of the outrageous puns featured on the radio programme “I’m Sorry, I Haven’t a Clue”. They are extremely witty: for instance “literally” means “to drop rubbish in a narrow passage” while “humanitarian” means someone who only eats people. There are hundreds more! (Penguin, 320pp, hardback, £14.99) ISBN 9781-7855-10618

In Maps of War, Mapping Conflict Through the Centuries, Jeremy Black has produced a hugely important historical work which deserves great credit. The maps and illustrations are many and varied and cannot fail to fascinate scholars and laymen alike. (Bloomsbury, 224pp, hardback, £30) ISBN 9781-8448-63440 Simon Webb’s Commuters traces the history of a very British way of travelling to work each day. Concise and informative, it explains how public transport created new suburbs. (Pen & Sword, 150pp, paperback, £12.99) ISBN 9781-4738-62906

Sir Patrick Moore, the country’s favourite astronomer, is one of those featured in Unravelling Sussex.

Major & Mrs Holt’s Definitive Battlefield Guide to the Somme is well illustrated and a must if you are planning to visit this area, criss-crossed by trenches, cemeteries and other items of war. (Pen & Sword, 360pp, paperback, £16.99) ISBN 9781-4738-66720

Many children aspire to become vets and will enjoy reading Horses, Heifers and Hairy Pigs, the Life of a Yorkshire Vet by Julian Norton. (Michael O’Mara, 256pp, hardback, £12.99) ISBN 9781-7824-36836 Pozières was one of the villages on the Somme where many Australians died.

The Complete Uxbridge English Dictionary is available by post from This England. For further details see page 85.

Tynwald Day on the Isle of Man is celebrated on 5th July each year at St. John the Baptist Church. Although a parish church it doubles as home to the Manx parliament (see Churches of the Church of England).

From Saxon to the 21st century, by way of Norman, Medieval, Post-Reformation, Victorian and 20th century, Janet Gough takes us inside Churches of the Church of England. With the help of stunning photography she covers 42 churches of all styles. (Scala, 96pp, paperback, £12.95) ISBN 9781-7855-10618

Divided into four, this 1943 map cleverly, clearly and effectively portrayed the Second World War to US Navy service personnel (see Maps of War).

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Exhibition: “Undressed: A Brief History of Underwear”. V&A, Cromwell Road, London SW7 2RL. The revealing story of underwear from the 18th century to modern times. More than 200 garments are featured from home-made “stays” to pieces by modern designers such as Stella McCartney, Rigby & Peller and Paul Smith. To 12th March. Tel: 020 7942 2000.

“Diana: Her 24 Exhibition: Fashion Story”, Kensington

Palace State Apartments, Kensington Gardens, London W8 4PX. Marking 20 years since her death this exhibition reveals Diana’s impact on fashion and popular culture. Iconic outfits such as the pale pink blouse she wore for her engagement photograph and the blue velvet gown worn when she danced with John Travolta at the White House will be on display. A temporary White Garden featuring narcissii, roses and a carpet of forget-me-nots will be created. To 24th February 2019. Tel: 0844 482 7777; www.hrp.org.uk .

Festival, 14 Cheltenham Prestbury Park, Cheltenham,

Drinker Beer and 28 London Cider Festival, Camden Centre,

Bidborough Street, London WC1H 9AU. With a dedicated area for 150 London craft beers, and a wide range of imported beers, ciders and perries this is an understandably popular event! To 10th. Tel: 020 8452 6965.

Shrovetide Football, 28 Royal Ashbourne, Derbyshire DE6 1EU.

Viking Festival, various 20 Jorvik venues, York. As a prologue to

the reopening of the worldfamous Jorvik Viking Centre on 8th April, the festival focuses on the end of Eric Bloodaxe’s reign. Visitors can join in the final campaign where Eric meets his death in combat and witness his spectacular flaming funeral pyre. A wide range of attractions include living history encampments, strongman and best beard competitions, have-a-go archery and sword fighting, talks, workshops and the famous march through the city streets on Saturday, 25th. To 26th. Details: www.jorvik-viking-festival.co.uk .

Classic Car Show, 23 London ExCel, London E16 1FR.

Highlights of the show include a celebration of 70 years of Ferrari road cars, a chance to see cars up close in the paddock area, guest speakers in an open forum, display of car clubs showing affordable classics and the “Perfect 10” — the best examples of classic cars in 10 different body styles. To 26th. Tickets: 0844 871 8805; www. thelondonclassiccarshow.co.uk .

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THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

With goals three miles apart, played over two eight-hour periods and with very few rules — this is a unique football game. To 1st March. Tel: 01335 343666.

MARCH

Show, Chiswick 23 Camellia House, London W4 2RP. The

fabulous camellias housed in the beautifully restored 19th-century glasshouse include rare and historically important examples including Middlemist’s red — one of only two known to exist in the world. To 2nd April. Tel: 020 8995 0508; www.chgt.org.uk . Words by the Water, Theatre by the Lake, Keswick, Cumberland CA12 5DJ. Festival of words and ideas with lectures, discussions, book launches, workshops and exhibitions taking place in a beautiful setting right on the edge of Derwentwater (pictured). High-profile names who will be there include Melvyn Bragg, John Simpson, Chris Tarrant, Prue Leith, Harriet Harman, Peter Snow, Alan Johnson and Vince Cable. To 12th. Tel: 017687 74411.

Gloucestershire GL50 4SH. The finest horses, jockeys, trainers and owners battle it out for the top racing honours and prize money of £4.1m. The highlight of the Jump season, the Gold Cup, takes place on the last day. To 17th. Further information: www.thefestival.co.uk .

Bang Fair, National 15 Big Exhibition Centre, Birmingham

B40 1NT. The UK’s largest celebration of science, technology, maths and engineering is the opportunity for young people (primarily 7–19) to see how what they learn in the classrooms translates into jobs in later life. Hands-on activities, theatre shows and career advice. To 18th. For free tickets www. thebigbangfair.co.uk .

Dog Show, National 29 Crufts Exhibition Centre, Birmingham

B40 1NT. World-famous event where thousands of dogs compete for the coveted title of Crufts Best in Show. Attractions include fantastic displays, a Discover Dogs section where you can meet more than 200 different breeds, a Dog Activities ring where you can unleash your dog’s potential, the Scruffts competition for crossbreeds and over 400 trade stands. To 12th. Tel: 0844 338 8000.

Literature Festival, various 16 York venues, York. Events across the

city feature poetry, literature, spoken word, workshops, music, comedy, cinema and theatre — something for everyone. To 30th; further details visit: www.yorkliteraturefestival.co.uk .

CHRIS HERRING

FEBRUARY

SPRING 2017

JUSTIN MINNS

English Diary

“Creating the 18 Exhibition: Countryside”, Compton

26 Mothering Sunday

Verney Art Gallery, Compton Verney, Warwickshire CV35 9HZ. Major exhibition that examines our relationship with the countryside through the work of both Old Masters and contemporary artists. To 18th June. Tel: 01926 64500.

APRIL and Cambridge Boat 22 Oxford Races, River Thames, from

Putney to Mortlake, London. The 163rd Boat Race and 72nd Women’s Boat Race will both take place on the Championship Course. This is one of the world’s oldest sporting events and one of the few that is free. For further information visit: www.theboatraces.org .

The World’s Original Marmalade Awards and Festival, Dalemain Mansion, Penrith, Cumberland CA11 0HB. Popular charity event where amateur and professional competitors from around the world enter their marmalades for judging. On the same weekend other local marmaladerelated events are taking place. Penrith Goes Orange features plenty of marmalade, music and Paddington Bear in Penrith town centre, and other events take place at the nearby Rheged Centre. There will be a shuttle bus service for visitors between all three venues. To 19th. Tel: 017684 86450.

English Tourism Week, various venues. A wide variety of local and national events with discounts and special offers available. To 2nd April. Further information: www.visitengland.com .

BRIAN GIBBS

14 Good Friday 16 Easter Sunday 17 Easter Monday Easter Egg Rolling, Avenham and Miller Parks, South Meadow Lane, Preston, Lancashire PR1 8JP. Traditional family event where eggs are rolled down a hill in the park. A popular Easter Bonnet competition is held and Lancashire food and drink will be on offer. Tel: 01772 903215.

Details of more events visit: www.stgeorgesholiday.com

MAY

Spring Flower 20 Harrogate Show, Great Yorkshire

Day Dawn Choir, Oxford. 21 May The choir of Magdalen College

Showground, Harrogate, North Yorkshire HG2 8NZ. One of the country’s most prestigious independent gardening events. Attractions include show gardens, a new Plant Pavilion, floral art marquee, cookery theatre and over 100 exhibitors with garden-related products, crafts and gifts. To 23rd. Tel: 01423 546157.

Oxford sing to welcome the dawn from the top of Magdalen tower. Other May day celebrations take place around the city. Starts 6am.

Horse Trials, 23 Badminton Badminton, Gloucestershire

GL9 1DF. One of the toughest and most exciting equestrian events in the country with world-class riders competing in dressage, cross country and show jumping in a beautiful setting. To 7th. Tel: 01454 218375.

Birthday of Her Majesty 21 91st Queen Elizabeth II Marathon, London, 23 London finishing at the Mall. Gruelling

race that has been held annually since 1981. Many thousands of runners take part and large sums of money are raised for charity.

LURU WEI

Ormskirk Road, Aintree, Liverpool L9 5AS. Passion, thrills and drama at this prestigious three-day event that culminates in the world-famous race that is one of the toughest of all tests for horses and jockeys. To 8th. Tel: 0344 579 3001.

St. George’s Day Marathon, Samphire Hoe, A20 Folkestone to Dover Road CT17 9FL. Details: www.saxon-shore.com .

ADINA TOVY

National Racing 26 Grand Festival, Aintree Racecourse,

Road, London W14 8UX. Iconic exhibition that has helped transform homes for over a century. Ideal interiors, show gardens, fashion, food and drink, the latest gadgets and plenty of shopping opportunities mean that you can come home with everything including the kitchen sink! To 9th April. Tel: 0844 858 6763.

CT16 1HU. A voyage back in time with Perkin the jester. Meet Roman gladiators, medieval princesses and Victorian toymakers, try a First World War assault course and follow the special chocolate trails. To 28th. Tel: 01304 211067.

22

ST. GEORGE’S DAY St. George’s Festival, Wrest Park, Silsoe, Bedfordshire MK45 4HR. To 23rd. Other English Heritage sites having special St. George’s Day events include Bolsover Castle (Derbyshire), Beeston Castle (Cheshire) and Kenilworth Castle (Warwickshire). Details: www.english-heritage.org.uk

George’s Day Charity Festival, Lytham St Anne’s, Lancashire. 23 St. Tel: 01253 667420.

Home Exhibition, 24 Ideal Olympia London, Hammersmith

Festival, Dover 25 Children’s Castle, Castle Hill, Dover

Send your friends a greetings card to honour England’s Patron Saint. See the advert on page 63.

at Night, various 17 Museums venues, England. Biannual

nationwide festival when major museums, historic properties and heritage sites open their doors after dark for exhibitions, talks, torch-lit tours and live music. To 20th. Details: www.museumsatnight.org.uk .

We always like to hear about events of any type, but please send details in to us at least three months in advance. Readers please note that because dates and details may be changed at the last minute, they are advised to check with local organisers nearer the time of the events.

THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

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ANNOUNCEMENTS AND NOTICES

Announcements & Notices

To advertise or for more information call: Bryn Piper on 020 7400 1050 or e-mail [email protected] This England Advertisements, 185 Fleet Street, London, EC4A 2HS, England.

Lineage rates: £1.25 per word, £1.00 for Back Issues; Box Ads Rate: £30 per single column centimetre (prices excluding VAT) Copy date for Summer 2017: 7th April 2017.

Back Issues This England 1968-2016. £100. Buyer to collect. 0208 399 4441. Zaragoza Spain, from Winter 1974. All except Winter 1987 & Spring 1988, perfect condition, buyer to collect, offers. Paula. Tel: +34 976 227 743.

Books/Literary Book binding, restoration, conservation and custom made binding. Private collections to unique wedding gifts. Cummins Farm, Stockland, Honiton, Devon, EX14 9EZ. Tel: 07876063997. Email: [email protected] Website: www.newmanbookbinding.co.uk ‘Forever England’, Rupert Brooke’s poem The Soldier set to beautiful photographs of Devon. £3.99 plus p&p. UK 75p, Europe £2.45, U.S.A./Canada £3.30, AUS/NZ £3.30. Send cheque to S. Lethbridge, Elgin, Weirfields, Totnes, Devon, England TQ9 5JS

Crafts & Gifts Parades may be over but remembrance is important. Complete medal mounting service, accessories, miniatures, etc. Ex-serviceman who knows his business. Home Counties Medal Services, 53 Bodiam Crescent, Hampden Park, Eastbourne, BN22 9HQ. Tel: 01323 506012.

Genealogy Ancestors can trace your family history world-wide more economically and efficiently. Consult the best for a “total peace of mind” money back guarantee. For a free estimate and brochure write to: Ancestors Professional Genealogy Service, 11 Crosbie Road, Harborne, Birmingham B17 9BG. Tel: 0121 2464260. E-mail: [email protected] Your Ancestors Found: Retired school inspector, Cambridge history graduate, genealogist for 40 years, researches and writes your family’s history. No task too big or small. Phone 01730 812232 for brochure, sample report and free estimate.

Devon

Holidays/Accommodation Cotswolds, near Chipping Norton. Country cottage, sleeps 6. Fully equipped. Gardens, parking. Stratford, Bourton on the Water, Oxford close by. Tel: 01608 674288. E-mail: [email protected] Delightful self-catering house, 3 bedroom in historical Warwick. Perfect for visits to castle, Stratford the Shakespeare country. Fully equipped, heated private garden, parking near to shops. Email Roger.Mann@talktalk. Website: www.tudorvilla.com Ferring, Worthing on beach. Luxurious Bungalow. Sleeps 2/6. Dogs love it! Prices for two from £575 low season. Tel: 077703 90677 or E-mail: [email protected] Ledbury (Herefordshire) — 5 charming self-catering cottages sleeping 2-5. Tranquil countryside setting ideal for walking, touring, relaxing. Free WiFi and parking. Tel: 01531 670349. Website: www.whitehousecottages.co.uk Louth, Lincolnshire — 2 s/c cott., sleeps up to 7. Well behaved pets welcome. £275 p/w 2-4 sharing (other tariffs available) Now taking bookings for 2017. Tel: 01507 606772 Website: www.railwaycottages.org

(Close to Dartmoor) A perfect 16th century village cottage in the heart of the most beautiful unspoilt countryside. 2 double bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, c/heating. Beautifully decorated and wonderfully comfortable — close to many RHS gardens

Do send for a brochure

Tel: 01837 810466 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.hopetwocottage.co.uk

SUSSEX — Peacehaven Ground floor flat, private entrance, parking, sleeps two. Cliff walks 200 yards. Frequent buses to Brighton and Eastbourne. Ideally situated for exploring surrounding countryside.

VISIT ENGLAND: “Quality in Tourism” Grade 4 awarded

Tel:

01273 587365

E-mail: [email protected]

Wanted Boy scout & girl guide badges & memorabilia wanted by collector. Peter Maryniak, 27 Stowe Walk, Northampton NN3 6EE. Tel: 01604452156. Email: [email protected] Collector/Carpenter — Woodworking hand tools. Tel: 01780 751768. B. Jackson, 10 Ayr Close, Stamford, Lincs. PE9 2TS. Old clocks and watches parts, tools, anything. Also coins. Tel: 01933 624296. Postcards pre 1950 small or large collections required by a keen collector. Jenkins, Flat 4, The Beehives, 1 Jumpers Road, Christchurch, BH23 2JR. Stamp Collections and postcards wanted by keen collector. Pre 1950. Tel: 01684 773173 or write to, Ian Aspey ‘Fieldcroft’ Aston Field Lane, Nr. Aston on Carrant, Tewkesbury, Gloucestershire, GL20 8HJ. Wanted old radio valves and audio valves. Any amount. Buyer will collect or pay postage. please phone Alan on 02392 251062.

Morpeth (Northumberland) — Two peaceful, spacious and comfortable country cottages. Sleep 4 & 6. Sorry, no pets. Brochure Tel: 01661 881241. Website: www.gallowhillcottages.co.uk Suffolk. Coast 3 miles. 2 cottages each sleeps 2 adults. En-Suite B&B also available. Tel: 01728 648377. Website: www.suffolk-selfcatering.co.uk

WELSH BORDER Hideaway on our quiet farm. Two delightful properties sleeping 7 & 14, plus cots. Groundfloor wheelchair user friendly & hearingloops in large house. Indoor swimming-pool. Games room.

Tel: 01544

260237

Website: www.hicksfarmholidays.co.uk

Professional research carried out to the highest standards. Competitive prices — free assessments. Send for your FREE brochure:

Debrett Ancestry Research Ltd (TE),

PO Box 379, Winchester SO23 9YQ. Tel: 01962 841904. www.debrettancestry.co.uk

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THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

Devon/Somerset borders family farm Peaceful scenic location for touring Exmoor, coasts and historic houses. Renowned for friendliness, comfort and delicious food. ETB 

B&B £32 per night. Dinner optional

Tel: Ann Heard 01398 361 296. Website: lowerwestcottfarm.co.uk

To receive a sample copy of this quarterly magazine, write or e-mail the address below:

The Ensign Trust, Newton Institute, Long’s Court, London WC1H 7EL Email - [email protected]

ANNOUNCEMENTS AND NOTICES

THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

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ANNOUNCEMENTS AND NOTICES

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THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

ANNOUNCEMENTS AND NOTICES

THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

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This England Gifts A selection of gifts from This England and Evergreen

Gifts The Journey Continues....

Spring 2017

RAILWAY JOURNEYS IN ART VOLUME EIGHT:

Worldwide Destinations

This magnificent volume takes a journey around some wonderful continental destinations such as France, Germany and Italy, as well as Ireland and North America, which both the British and foreign railway companies advertised, before examining general British poster policy and the services our railways offered, covering hotels, ferry, air and freight services and holiday guides. • 272 pages of stunning images and informative text • Around 454 poster images from worldwide destinations Just £44 to UK, overseas £74. US $147; Can $155; Aus $163; NZ $188.

Code: LPTP8

ALSO AVAILABLE IN THE SERIES

Back in stock! VOLUME 1: Scotland Code: LPTP1 Just £39 to UK, overseas £69. US $137; Can $145; Aus $152; NZ $175.

VOLUME 5: London and the South East Code: LPTP5 Just £42 to UK, overseas £72. US $143; Can $151; Aus $159; NZ $183.

VOLUME 2: Yorkshire and the North East of England Code: LPTP2 Just £44 to UK, overseas £74. US $147; Can $155; Aus $163; NZ $188.

VOLUME 6: The British North West Code: LPTP6 Just £44 to UK, overseas £74. US $147; Can $155; Aus $163; NZ $188.

VOLUME 3: The Midlands & Wales Code: LPTP3 Just £44 to UK, overseas £74. US $147; Can $155; Aus $163; NZ $188.

VOLUME 7: The Glorious South-West Code: LPTP7 Just £43 to UK, overseas £73. US $145; Can $153; Aus $161; NZ $185.

VOLUME 4: The Eastern Counties Code: LPTP4 Just £39 to UK, overseas £69. US $137; Can $145; Aus $152; NZ $175.

PHONE: 0800 074 0188 (FREE from UK landlines) Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat 9am-5pm. Overseas: +44 1382 575052

ONLINE: www.thisengland.co.uk 84

THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

This England Gifts

This England Gifts Bookshop The Ration Book Diet

See the review on page 75. (144pp, hardback) Code: LRADI

Just £14.99 to UK, overseas £17.99. US $36; Can $38; Aus $40; NZ $46.

The Complete Uxbridge English Dictionary See the brief on page 77. (320pp, hardback) Code: LUXBR

Just £14.99 to UK, overseas £22.99. US $46; Can $49; Aus $51; NZ $59.

Deputy Editor’s Choice

The Anthology of English Folk Tales

This enchanting collection of stories gathers together folk tales from across England in one special volume. It’s a treasure trove of tales from a wealth of talented storytellers performing in the country today, including prominent figures Taffy Thomas MBE, Hugh Lupton and Helen East. From hidden chapels and murderous vicars to travelling fiddlers and magical shape-shifters, this book celebrates the distinct character of England’s different customs, beliefs and dialects, and is a treat for all who enjoy a good yarn. (192pp, hardback) Code: LFOLK

Just £9.99 to UK, overseas £12.99. US $26; Can $28; Aus $29; NZ $33.

Steam in the North East — Northumberland, Durham & Yorkshire

R.J. (Ron) Buckley’s photographs show the changing locomotive scene taking place throughout the counties of Northumberland, Durham and Yorkshire, illustrating from the later 1930s those pre-grouping classes that were still working. These included the work of such well-known designers as Wilson Wordsell and Vincent Raven of the North Eastern railway, John Aspinall of the Lancashire and Yorkshire railway and Samuel Johnson and Henry Fowler of the Midland Railway. Ron’s later photographs, from 1946 onwards, continue to show remaining working pre-grouping locomotives and also portray the newer designs of William Stanier, Charles Fairburn, Edward Thompson and Arthur Peppercorn, as well as standard examples designed under Robert Riddles. (96pp, paperback) Code: LSTNE

Just £19.99 to UK, overseas £22.99. US $46; Can $49; Aus $51; NZ $59.

The Ingenious Victorians

We all know that some of the greatest inventions came from the Victorian age, the successors of which are still with us today. But this book is not entirely about those. It’s more about some of the weird and wonderful inventions, ideas and projects — some successful, others less so — that have largely been forgotten. Here you can read how Victorian innovators were responsible for an electric railway with lines under the sea, cameras disguised as bowler hats, safety coffins designed to prevent premature burial, the first traffic lights, which exploded a month after their erection in Westminster... as well as many other ingenious inventions. (288pp, paperback) Code: LVICT

Just £14.99 to UK, overseas £17.99. US $36; Can $38; Aus $40; NZ $46.

The Harcombe Year

Curl up in a corner of the Cotswolds with this delightful and heartwarming book, which captures the joy of English country life throughout the seasons. Local journalist and author, Di Alexander, reflects upon twelve months on the farm where she lives with her husband, Malcolm, and assorted horses, hens, dogs, cats and goats — not forgetting the wildlife in the surrounding fields and woods. Written with warmth, verve and humour, this is a treat for anyone who loves to savour and celebrate the rural idyll. (137pp, paperback) Code: LHARY

Just £8.99 to UK, overseas £11.99. US $24; Can $26; Aus $27; NZ $31.

POST: This England Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 814, Haywards Heath, Sussex RH16 9LQ. See order form on page 97 THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

85

This England Gifts

st chance to buy....last chance to buy...last chance to buy....last chance to buy...

This England’s Annual 2017 A 100-page treat packed with articles on a whole range of subjects and filled with stunning colour photographs, inspiring pieces of poetry and pithy quotations about England and the English. Highlights include:

MORNINGS: Warm recollections of late summer days in the • HOPPING hopfields of Kent. NOTHING QUITE LIKE A FLAMING PUD!: The delicious history of • THERE’S the much-loved Christmas pudding — and a selection of mouth-watering

recipes.

• LINDISFARNE — ENGLAND’S CRADLE OF CHRISTIANITY: • A visit to Holy Island. REVERIE: • AA CHRISTMAS glowing, tinsel-twinkling memory of festive family gatherings many LESLIE HOWARD — An English Gentleman.

years ago.

MUSICAL LIFE — Memories of dance bands, early rock and roll and • Asoundtracks for the silver screen.

There is also a Traditional Counties Quiz, a short story about a wartime evacuee’s train journey, jokes to make you giggle and groan, a selection of Pictures from the Past…and much, much more! Softback,100 pages.

While Stocks Last!

One copy:

Code: TEA17

Just £5.99 to UK, overseas £8.25. US $17; Can $18; Aus $19; NZ $21.

The Man with the Golden Typewriter

Ian Fleming bought the gold-plated typewriter as a present to himself for finishing his first novel, Casino Royale. It marked in glamorous style the arrival of James Bond, agent 007, and the start of a career that saw Fleming become one of the world’s most celebrated thriller writers. Before the world-famous films came the world-famous novels and this book tells the story of the man who wrote them and how he created spy fiction’s most compelling hero. (392pp, hardback) Code: LMANF WAS £25, now just £15 to UK, overseas £23. US $46; Can $49; Aus $51; NZ $59.

Londonopolis

Spanning above and below ground, from the outer suburbs to the inner city, and from the medieval period to the modern day, Londonopolis is a celebration of the weird and the wonderful that makes the mysterious city of London so magical. It is an amusing alternative history, a quirky guide, and an excellent bedtime read. (224pp, hardback) Code: LLOND

WAS £12.99, now just £9.99 to UK, overseas £12.99. US $26; Can $28; Aus $29; NZ $33.

SPECIAL OFFER: Two Annuals to one address:

Code: TA172

Just £10 to UK, overseas £14. US $28; Can $30; Aus $31; NZ $36.

Steam Trains

The first railway lines, the activities of the early railway companies, the design and manufacture of faster and faster engines and the lives of the men and women who drove the industry. These, and other fascinating stories from the age of steam, are all revealed in this accessible book illustrated with over 150 photographs and period ephemera, many in colour. (220pp, paperback) Code: LSTTR WAS £14.99, now just £8.99 to UK, overseas £11.99. US $24; Can $26; Aus $27; NZ $31.

Engel’s England

Matthew Engel takes the road less travelled through England’s historic counties. England, says the author, is the most complicated place in the world. And, as he travels through each of the historic English counties, he discovers that’s just the start of it. Every county is fascinating, a unique slice of a nation that has not quite lost its ancient diversity. (538pp, hardback)

Code: LENG

WAS £20, now just £10 to UK, overseas £20. US $40; Can $42; Aus $44; NZ $51.

POST: This England Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 814, Haywards Heath, Sussex RH16 9LQ. See order form on page 97 86

THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

This England Gifts

JIGSAW PUZZLES Each box contains a 500-piece puzzle, information sheets and a full size folded print of the jigsaw image. Size approx. 19¼" x 13½" when completed.

Made in England by Cranham Publications, Oxford.

A COLOURFUL IRIS GARDEN JIGSAW PUZZLE

SUMMER FLOWERS AT CHENIES MANOR JIGSAW PUZZLE

THE GARDENING YEAR JIGSAW PUZZLE

HADDON HALL JIGSAW PUZZLE

A view of the Schreiner’s Iris Gardens in Oregon, USA. An annual festival is held in late spring and is famous for its stunning display gardens, where dozens of iris varieties are planted in a richly layered tapestry along with poppies, lupins, alliums and aquilegia. Code: MJG15

This jigsaw puzzle features twelve assorted garden images representing each month of the year and provides a patchwork combination of texture and colour. Photographed in different locations, these pictures illustrate a chronological trip through the seasons. Code: MJG14

A view of the sunken garden at Chenies Manor in Buckinghamshire. A wide variety of dahlias provide late summer colour and make a stunning display. The garden, which can be traced back to the Tudor period, is also well-known for its wonderful planting of tulips in the spring. Code: MJG16

The jigsaw puzzle photograph captures old stone and roses at Haddon Hall, Derbyshire. The predominantly medieval and Tudor house provides a magnificent backdrop for the gardens which in summer are abundant with delphiniums, clematis and the large rose collection which is well known throughout the world. Code: MJG17

Just £14.95 each to UK, overseas £18.95. US $38; Can $40; Aus $42; NZ $48.

PHONE: 0800 074 0188 (FREE from UK landlines) Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat 9am-5pm. Overseas: +44 1382 575052

ONLINE: www.thisengland.co.uk THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

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This England Gifts

Garden Inspirations Delightful collection featuring designs adapted from the original RHS archive illustrations. Just

RHS Foliage Linen Tea Towel

£14.50

Just

UK delivery only

£12

Code: 00FOL

100% linen, size approx. 19" x 29"

UK delivery only

Just

£12

UK delivery only

RHS Roses Linen Tea Towel

RHS Roses Muff Tea Cosy Code: 7RSE7

Code: 00RSE

100% cotton with a polyester wadding filling.

100% linen, size approx. 19" x 29"

Just

£21.50

RHS Roses Placemat & Coaster Set

UK delivery only

Code: 8RSEP

A set of 4 placemats (size 11½" x 8¼") and 4 coasters (size 4" x 4") to protect your table from heat or food spills. RHS Roses Large Tray Code: 8RSE6

Melamine tray, size approx. 19" x 11½"

Each bag has a magnetic clasp for closing and inner pocket with a zip. It is produced from 100% cotton with a PVC coating.

Just

£16.50

UK delivery only

UK delivery only Just

£19.50

UK delivery only

Just

£17.50

UK delivery only

Just

£17.50

Just

UK delivery only

£19.50

UK delivery only

RHS Roses Small Shopping Bag Code: 609RS

Size approx. 9" x 9" x 4¼"

RHS Roses Medium Shopping Bag Code: 604RS

Size approx. 12¼" x 15¼" x 6"

RHS Foliage Medium Shopping Bag Code: 604FL

Size approx. 12¼" x 15¼" x 6"

RHS Foliage Small Bag Code: 609FL

Size approx. 9" x 9" x 4¼"

PHONE: 0800 074 0188 (FREE from UK landlines) Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat 9am-5pm. Overseas: +44 1382 575052

ONLINE: www.thisengland.co.uk 88

THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

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Rose Elizabeth II Fragrant Rose Queen Elizabeth We are delighted to offer three premium and much sought after Floribunda ‘Queen Elizabeth Roses’, the perfect way to add a bit of royal charm to your garden. Available in three wonderful colours, which complement each other perfectly, each fragrant variety will add charm, character and class to the English garden. Each variety can be planted as a great impact summer shrub or in larger groups as a hedge or boundary. A great choice for either a novice or more experienced gardener, these roses should be planted where you can appreciate the wonderful fragrance and beauty.

ROSE QUEEN ELIZABETH The traditional light pink variety introduced to celebrate the Queen’s accession to the throne.

£9.99 or order 4+2 FREE for only £19.98. Buy two for

ROSE APRICOT QUEEN ELIZABETH Produces apricot and creamy white flowers throughout the summer.

£9.99 or order 4+2 FREE for only £19.98. Buy two for

Top quality two year old roses supplied. 6 QUEEN ELIZABETH ROSE COLLECTION Buy two each of the above three varieties for only £19.98 (4+2 FREE). Code: GA130

Code: I829 Code: I830

Code: GA126 Code: GA127

Code: GA128 Code: GA129

2 Rose Queen Elizabeth £9.99 4 Rose Queen Elizabeth + 2 FREE £19.98 2 Rose Apricot Queen Elizabeth £9.99 4 Rose Apricot Queen Elizabeth + 2 FREE £19.98 2 Rose Scarlet Queen Elizabeth £9.99 4 Rose Scarlet Queen Elizabeth + 2 FREE £19.98

ROSE SCARLET QUEEN ELIZABETH A vibrant scarlet red variety that really makes a statement.

£9.99 or order 4+2 FREE for only £19.98. Buy two for

Please allow 28 days for delivery. Closing date:

15th April 2017

More gardening offers available in This England Gifts brochure and on the website www.thisengland. co.uk

Rosemary Pettigrew’s top tips I love floribunda roses because they produce so many flowers in large clusters and they are so easy to grow. a Plant them at a back of a border to give height and long-term interest — or plant as an eyecatching hedge. a Prune in early spring (February to early March) and use the same pruning techniques as for hybrid teas. If the roses form a hedge just prune to the required shape and height. a For winter protection give your roses a good mulch of well-rotted organic matter.

POST: This England Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 814, Haywards Heath, Sussex RH16 9LQ. See order form on page 97 THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

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This England Gifts

PORTMEIRION BOTANIC GARDEN Portmeirion was founded in 1960 by the legendary pottery designer Susan Williams-Ellis and twelve years later its most recognised design, Botanic Garden, was born. Today it is still holding the fort at the centre of home and family life, making everyday occasions special — a secret garden in which to enjoy the good times. Each and every piece is unique and made with care, attention and love. 4 x Dinner Plate 10"

Botanic Garden 12pc Dinner Set The Botanic Garden 12pc set consists of: 4 x Dinner Plate 10" 4 x Salad Plate 8" 4 x Bowl 6". Dishwasher & microwave safe, oven & freezer proof. Code: PGB12

Just

£90

UK delivery only (RRP £174)

4 x Salad Plate 8"

4 x Bowl 6"

SPECIAL OFFER: Botanic Garden 24pc Dinner Set Buy two sets for

£170 and

SAVE £10! (RRP £348) Code: PGB24

POST: This England Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 814, Haywards Heath, Sussex RH16 9LQ. See order form on page 97 90

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This England Gifts

Branch Lines of Devon Vol. 1 DVD

This first volume on Devon explores what remains of the stations and infrastructure of the branch lines in the Exeter area, and the central, eastern and southern parts of the county. Illustrated by superb modern film, explanatory maps and rare archive photographs and footage, we tell the story of railways which once provided a valuable service in carrying passengers and freight around Devon, as well as taking holidaymakers to the seaside.

REGION 1

Code: DDV11

REGION 2

Code: DDV1P

Branch Lines of Devon Vol. 2 DVD

The second volume explores the old branch lines of North & West Devon, including an evocative visit to Dartmoor and a special feature on the Plymouth area. The story is enhanced by stunning modern film as well as rare archive photographs and footage. It also includes interviews with people who have created successful heritage lines from what was left of the old system, with visits to the Lynton & Barnstaple Railway, the Plym Valley Railway and the Dartmoor Railway. REGION 1

Code: DDV21

REGION 2

Code: DDV2P

Discovering Wiltshire Vol. 1 DVD

Celebrate Wiltshire’s rich history by joining us on this first part of a fascinating journey, in which we explore the spectacular south of the county. This historical tour includes Salisbury, Old Sarum, Warminster, Imber, Trowbridge, Stonehenge and many other towns, villages and places of interest. REGION 1

Code: DWL11

REGION 2

Code: DWL1P

Discovering Wiltshire Vol. 2 DVD

Explore North Wiltshire’s rich heritage by embarking on an historical tour of the area, which includes visits to some of the most picturesque towns in the West Country: Bradford-on-Avon, Melksham, Devizes, Marlborough, Avebury, Calne, Chippenham, Corsham, Swindon, the Kennet & Avon Canal and pretty villages such as Castle Combe, Aldbourne and Pewsey. REGION 1

Code: DWL21

REGION 2

Code: DWL2P

Just £15.95 each to UK, overseas £18.95. US $38; Can $40; Aus $42; NZ $48. All DVDs are available in two formats: REGION 1 - NTSC for USA and Canada only and REGION 2 - PAL for UK/Europe/Australia/New Zealand.

Sing Something Simple On Sunday evenings for over 40 years, listeners would sit back in their armchairs and relax to the gentle sounds of Sing Something Simple. Broadcast first on the BBC Light Programme and then on BBC Radio Two, the show featured the most popular melodies of the last 70 years, performed by The Cliff Adams Singers, accompanied by accordionist Jack Emblow. SING SOMETHING SIMPLE...AS CARES GO BY (4-CD Set)

Code: CSIN1

April Showers; Over My Shoulder; Bring Me Sunshine; The Old Fashioned Way; Try A Little Tenderness; Raining in my Heart; Just One of Those Things; Dancing In The Dark; Pretty Baby; Tiptoe Through The Tulips; You Do Something To Me; Unforgettable and many, many more.

SING SOMETHING SIMPLE....SECOND TIME AROUND (4-CD Set)

Code: CSIN2

Everything I’ve Got; Danny Boy; C’est Si Bon; I Left My Heart In San Francisco; Dancing On The Ceiling; Cabaret; Ol’ Man River; I Only Have Eyes For You; Lili Marlene; Can’t Buy Me Love; Gone With The Wind; Time After Time; With A Song In My Heart and more. Each set just £20.99 each to UK, overseas £23.99. US $48; Can $51; Aus $53; NZ $61.

PHONE: 0800 074 0188 (FREE from UK landlines) Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat 9am-5pm. Overseas: +44 1382 575052

ONLINE: www.thisengland.co.uk THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

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This England Gifts

Yesterda s Music y’ A collection of CDs all exclusive to This England

Editor Recommends See The Editor’s Letter on pages 10-13.

A Centenary Tribute to VERA LYNN

“A legend in one’s own lifetime” is a much overused phrase but not in the case of Dame Vera Lynn whose centenary we celebrate with this tribute CD. Voted “The Forces’ Sweetheart” by a poll of the troops shortly after the war began, she remains so to this day. Tracks include: As Time Goes By; It’s a Lovely Day, Tomorrow; Lili Marlene; Don’t Fence Me In; If I Had My Way; Deep in the Heart of Texas; I’m in the Mood for Love; My Happiness; You’ll Never Know; Goodnight, My Love; Alone; Travellin’ Home; Little Sir Echo; Bless ‘Em All; Yours; We’re Gonna Hang Out the Washing on the Siegfried Line; Kiss Me Goodnight, Sgt. Major; The Love Bug Will Bite You; Far Away Places; I Don’t Want to Set the World on Fire; Coming Home to You; When the Lights Go On Again; Somewhere Along the Way; Here in My Heart; Let the Rest of the World Go By; When You Hear Big Ben; Have I Told You Lately?; We’ll Meet Again; A Nightingale Sang in Berkeley Square; The White Cliffs of Dover; There’ll Always Be an England and Auf Wiederseh’n Sweetheart. Code: C165

Thomas Round

An outstanding singer who played all the major tenor roles in every Gilbert and Sullivan opera. Listen to the wandering minstrel in The Mikado, a love-sick sailor in HMS Pinafore, a gallant Venetian in The Gondoliers, a condemned man in The Yeomen of the Guard, a peer from the House of Lords in Iolanthe, a dashing lover in Ruddigore and a wronged apprentice in the Pirates of Penzance, all with a full supporting cast. Code: C152

Ray Martin’s Marching Strings

Having narrowly escaped from the Nazis, Ray Martin became one of the biggest names in British popular music, regularly conducting his own orchestra on radio and television. He also composed many catchy melodies including Marching Strings, the well-known theme tune to Top of the Form. Never without a smile on his face he lit up the nation with his all-embracing and attractive music. Code: C161

Stanley Holloway Songs

Everyone knows his monologues but he also had a brilliant baritone voice. Don’t just take our word for it, though, listen to this terrific CD of a person who Arthur Askey described as “The nicest man I ever knew. He never had a wrong word to say about anyone. He was a great actor, a super mimic and a one-man walking comic show.” We couldn’t have put it better ourselves and you will be delighted with this musical tribute. Code: C155

Two-Way Family Favourites:

This wonderful programme ran without a break for 38 years and was designated listening for much of the population. Here are 25 of the most popular songs chosen by those wishing to convey love to their other half “at home and abroad”. Code: C162

Just £9.95 each to UK, overseas £12. US $24; Can $26; Aus $27; NZ $31.

PHONE: 0800 074 0188 (FREE from UK landlines) Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat 9am-5pm. Overseas: +44 1382 575052

ONLINE: www.thisengland.co.uk 92

THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

This England Gifts

THE WAY WE WERE We have teamed up with Britain On Film and are delighted to present a new series of nostalgic DVDs — THE WAY WE WERE. They combine unique cine films from various regions, old photos and stories as well as recollections of former residents to paint a fascinating picture of life in a bygone era.

THE COTSWOLDS

SOUTHAMPTON

Code: DWW02

Code: DWW04

PLYMOUTH

Find out more about each DVD at www.thisengland. co.uk

COLCHESTER Code: DWW07

Code: DWW06

DVDs in this panel just £12.50 each to UK, overseas £15.50. US $31; Can $33; Aus $35; NZ $40.

SOUTHEND

WIRRAL

Code: DWW01

WATFORD

Code: DWW08

PEMBROKESHIRE

Code: DWW03

Code: DWW09

BLACKBURN

Code: DWW05

KINGSTON

BOLTON

ON

THAMES

Code: DWW11

Code: DWW10

ST. HELENS

Code: DWW12

DVDs in this panel just £15.50 each to UK, overseas £18.50. US $37; Can $39; Aus $51; NZ $47.

ALL DVDS

ARE

REGION 0,

ALL REGIONS, RUNNING TIME APPROX.

50

MINS EACH.

POST: This England Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 814, Haywards Heath, Sussex RH16 9LQ. See order form on page 97 THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

93

This England Gifts THE TRUE, HISTORIC COUNTIES OF GREAT BRITAIN AND NORTHERN IRELAND This map is the only one in existence showing the counties in a modern, large scale format. It shows real historic (not administrative) counties that remain the same today as they have been for hundreds of years. This unique map, printed on satin paper, comes either as a plain or laminated wall map or a traditional folded map that you can take anywhere. • Size 46" x 32" • Scale 1" to 13½ miles • Principal cities and towns • Historic county towns • Motorways and principal road network

• Fascinating “About this

map” account included

Folded map: Code: MFMAP

Just £14.95 to UK, overseas £19.95. US $40; Can $42; Aus $44; NZ $51.

Plain wall map: Code: MWMAP

Just £21.95 to UK, overseas £31.95. US $64; Can $67; Aus $71; NZ $81.

Laminated wall map: Code: MLMAP

Just £35.95 to UK, overseas £59.95. US $119; Can $126; Aus $132; NZ $152.

The Real County of Yorkshire Map Yorkshire, our largest county, with its three historic Ridings, is the same today as it has been for over a thousand years. The boundaries of no fewer than 35 councils governing those who live in Yorkshire bear no relation to the real county. This map, the first in the ‘Real County’ series, sets the record straight. • Size approx. 33" x 23" • Accurate boundaries of the real county of Yorkshire • Yorkshire’s three Ridings clearly marked • Historic boundary of the city of York • Current local government boundaries • Principal cities, towns and villages • National parks, principal rivers and peaks • Heritage railways • Key tourist attractions Also included is a fascinating, detailed ‘About this map’ account.

Yorkshire folded map: Code: MFYOR Just £12.95 to UK, overseas £18.95. US $38; Can $40; Aus $42; NZ $48. Yorkshire plain wall map: Code: MWYOR Just £13.95 to UK, overseas £18.95. US $38; Can $40; Aus $42; NZ $48. Yorkshire laminated wall map: Code: MLYOR Just £28.95 to UK, overseas £36.95. US $74; Can $78; Aus $82; NZ $94.

POST: This England Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 814, Haywards Heath, Sussex RH16 9LQ. See order form on page 97 94

THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

This England Gifts

Elephant Parade Designer Shoppers These beautiful shopping bags have been produced by Ulster Weavers in co-operation with well-known designers, Sir Terence Conran and Lulu Guinness. A percentage of profits will be donated to the Just Elephant Parade charity in £25 support of elephant welfare each and conservation UK delivery only projects.

Lulu Guinness Grocery Shopper

Code: 936LU

Sir Terence Conran Grocery Shopper Code: 936ST

100% cotton canvas, PVC coated on inside. Size: 16½" x 13" x 7¼". UK delivery only.

PHONE: 0800 074 0188 (FREE from UK landlines) Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat 9am-5pm. Overseas: +44 1382 575052

ONLINE: www.thisengland.co.uk THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

95

This England Gifts

If you are truly proud of your unique corner of England, you can now wear your own

COUNTY TIE Each tie is emblazoned with its own particular Coat of Arms. When tied, the county shield appears some 3" below the knot, complemented by an attractive diagonal stripe picking out the various colours in the county Coat of Arms, all on a royal navy blue background. MADE IN ENGLAND Code: TIE01 Code: TIE02 Code: TIE03 Code: TIE04 Code: TIE05 Code: TIE06 Code: TIE07 Code: TIE08 Code: TIE09 Code: TIE10 Code: TIE11 Code: TIE12 Code: TIE13 Code: TIE14 Code: TIE15 Code: TIE16 Code: TIE17 Code: TIE18 Code: TIE19 Code: TIE20 Code: TIE21 Code: TIE22 Code: TIE23 Code: TIE24 Code: TIE25 Code: TIE26

Bedfordshire Berkshire Buckinghamshire Cambridgeshire Cheshire Cornwall Cumberland Derbyshire Devon Dorset Durham Essex Gloucestershire Hampshire Herefordshire Hertfordshire Huntingdonshire Kent Lancashire Leicestershire Lincolnshire Middlesex Monmouthshire Norfolk Northamptonshire Northumberland

Exclusive to

This England!! England

Code: TIE27 Code: TIE28 Code: TIE29 Code: TIE30 Code: TIE31 Code: TIE32 Code: TIE33

Nottinghamshire Oxfordshire Rutland Shropshire Somerset Staffordshire Suffolk

Code: TIE34 Code: TIE35 Code: TIE36 Code: TIE37 Code: TIE38 Code: TIE39 Code: TIE40

Surrey Sussex Warwickshire Westmorland Wiltshire Worcestershire Yorkshire

Just £12.95 each to UK, overseas £15.95. US $32; Can $34; Aus $36; NZ $31.

PHONE: 0800 074 0188 (FREE from UK landlines) Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat 9am-5pm. Overseas: +44 1382 575052

ONLINE: www.thisengland.co.uk 96

THIS ENGLAND, Spring, 2017

This England Gifts Order form for Gifts Patience Strong gift cards Patience Strong poems have brought inspiration and comfort to many readers. This new series of six cards features beautiful photographs, which have been carefully chosen to reflect the Patience Strong verse contained inside.

How to order: Phone: 0800 074 0188 (FREE from UK landlines) Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat 9am-5pm

Overseas: +44 1382 575052 Post:

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One pack contains 6 cards with envelopes.

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One pack: Code: MPCSA Just £5.95 to UK, overseas £7.95. US $16; Can $17; Aus $18; NZ $21. Two packs: Code: MPCS2 Just £10 to UK, overseas £13. US $26; Can $28; Aus $29; NZ $33.

Continue on plain paper if necessary

This England Slip-Case

Our Slip Cases are the ideal way of displaying your collection of magazines Code: TSCN

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This sturdy slip-case comes in a lovely shade of deep blue with a St. George motif, plus the red and white flag of England on the front and spine. It will be a smart and very patriotic addition to your bookshelf. Holds 8 editions, no wires to slip in.

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Just £9.95 each to UK, overseas £14.95. US $30; Can $32; Aus $33; NZ $38.

POST: This England Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 814,

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Order form for subscriptions YES, I would like to subscribe to THIS ENGLAND for: (tick relevant box)  Only £17 by Direct Debit (UK) + FREE gift + FREE This England calendar  1 year for £19.80 (UK) or £27.00 (Overseas) + FREE gift  2 years for £37.50 (UK) or £51.00 (Overseas) +FREE gift + FREE This England calendar Choose your FREE gift:  English Whisky Nosing Glass (GLASS)  Lilliput Lane Cottage (COTTG)

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Take out a direct debit or two-year subscription and receive a This England Country Calendar FREE! Terms and Conditions: *One year for £17 subscription offer is available for delivery within the UK by Direct Debit only. Overseas Direct Debit rate at £25 and is available for UK Bank Accounts only. One year minimum term applies. Prepaid rates available by cheque and credit card. One year pre-paid UK rate £19.80 or £27 Overseas. Overseas prices in other currencies are available on application, please dial +44 1382 575052. FREE gifts are available to all new subscribers. Lilliput Lane gift limited to first 230 orders. Please allow up to 28-days for delivery from receipt of payment. Should the gift pictured be unavailable, a replacement gift will be sent. Offer ends 7th June, 2017.

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99

Easter Easter blessings touch our hearts As spring ’wakes all around, New life is filling field and tree With colour, light and sound. Easter blessings, yours and mine, As once more earth revives, But most of all, the precious love Which comforts all our lives. The Easter message gives us hope, We know love cannot die, We keep the knowledge life goes on, Though springtime passes by. So share the healing and the joy, It helps our spirits climb, Go forward with a lighter heart, Rejoice at Easter time. IRIS HESSELDEN

A perky little wren heralds the joys of spring. LISA GEOGHEGAN