Haynes Triumph 1500TC and Dolomite 1500 Owners Workshop Manual 0856968412, 9780856968419

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Triumph 1500TC & Dolomite1500 Owners Workshoo Manual byJH Haynes Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers

and Alec J Jones asc eng. c eng Models covered:

Triumph 1500TC. Dolomite

1493 cc

1500 and 1500HL.

1493'cc

Covers overdrive, manual and automatic transmission versions of above

ISBN O 85696 841 2

©

Haynes Publishing Group 1978, 1982, 1984

All rights any form recording in writing

reserved. or by any or by any from the

No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, information storage or retrieval system, without permission copyright holder.

Printed in England

(369-70J2)

HAYNES PUBLISHING GROUP SPARKFORD YEOVIL SOMERSET distributed in the USA by

HAYNES PUBLICATIONS 861 LAWRENCE DRIVE NEWBURY PARK CALIFORNIA 91320

USA

EDINBURGY

INC

BA22 7JJ ENGLAND

aycos

Acknowledgements Thanks are due to British Leyland UK Limited for the supply of technical information and certain illustrations, and the Champion Sparking Plug Company who supplied the illustrations showing the various spark plug conditions. The bodywork repair photographs used in this manual were provided by Lloyds Industries who supply ‘Turtle Wax’, ‘Dupli-Color Holts’, and other Holts range products.

We acknowledge with gratitude the help received from Tice and

Son (Wimborne) Ltd., and in particular Mr S P White. Lastly, special thanks are due to all those people at Sparkford who

assisted in the production of this manual. Particularly, Brian Horsfall and Leon Martindale who carried out the mechanical work and took the photographs respectively; Pete Ward who edited the text and Stanley Randolph who planned the layout of each page.

About this manual /ts aims The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your car. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work

must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage), provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage, and going there twice to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs the garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads. The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Then the tasks are described and photographed in a step-by-step sequence so that even a novice can do the work.

are in, (eg. 5.1, 5.2, 5.3 etc). It is freely illustrated, especially in those parts where there is a detailed sequence of operations to be carried out. There are two forms of illustration: figures and photographs. The figures are numbered in sequence with decimal numbers, according to their position in the Chapter: eg. Fig. 6.4 is the 4th drawing/illustration in Chapter 6.

Photographs are numbered (either individually or in related groups) the same as the Section or Sub-section of the text where the operation they show is described. There is an alphabetical index at the back of the manual as well as a contents list at the front.

References to the ‘left’ or ‘right’ of the vehicle are in the sense of a person in a seat facing forwards.

Whilst every care is taken to ensure that the information in this

/ts arrangement The manual

numbered Sections, eg. 5; and the Sections into paragraphs (or Subsections), with decimal numbers following on from the Section they

manual

is divided into thirteen

Chapters, each

covering a

logical sub-division of the vehicle. The Chapters are each divided into

is correct

no liability can

be accepted

publishers for loss, damage or injury caused omissions from, the information given.

by the authors

or

by any errors in, or

Page

Acknowledgements

2

About this manual

2

Use of English

4

Introduction to the Triumph

1500TC

and the Dolomite

1500 and

1500 HL

5

~ General dimensions, weights and capacities

5

Buying spare parts and vehicle identification numbers

8

Routine

9

maintenance

Jacking and towing

Recommended

11

12

lubricants and fluids

Tools and working facilities

13

1 Engine

15

Chapter 2 Cooling system

38

Chapter 3 Fuel and exhaust systems

43

Chapter 4 Ignition system

53

Chapter 5 Clutch

62

Chapter 6 Gearbox, overdrive and automatic transmission

68

Chapter

Chapter 7 Propeller shaft a A ks AN 5 Br ae

108

sb Se

Chapter 8 Rear axle

dec

ee

et

111

a

Chapter 9 Braking system se So tl a

da

a

RR

lr

Ss

INR

oT 117

a

eee

ern

a

ee

Ee

eS 128

Chapter 10 Cc bi

Electrical system cE a

Chapter 11

Suspension and steering

152

Chapter 12

Bodywork and underframe

169

ee

Se

ee

Fault diagnosis Safety first! Conversion factors Index

196

Use of English As this book has been written in England, it uses the appropriate English component names, phrases, and spelling. Some of these differ from those used in America. Normally, these cause no difficulty, but to make sure, a glossary is printed below. In ordering spare parts remember the parts list will probably use these words:

Glossary American

English

American

English Accelerator

Gas pedal

Leading shoe (of brake)

Alternator

Generator (AC)

Locks

Latches

Anti-roll bar Battery

Stabiliser or sway bar Energizer

Motorway Number plate

Freeway, turnpike etc. Licence plate

Bonnet (engine cover

Hood

Paraffin

Kerosene

Boot lid se ee Boot (luggage compartment)

Trunk lid Trunk

Petrol Petrol tank

Gasoline Gas tank

Bottom gear

Res

:

Primary shoe

1st gear

‘Pinking’

‘Pinging’

Bulkhead ae Camfollower or tappet

Firewall Valve lifter or tappet

Propellor shaft Quarter light

Driveshaft Quarter window

Carburettor

Recap

Carburetor

Retread

Catch

se

Latch

Reverse

Back-up

Choke/venturi Circlip Clearance

Barrel Snap ring Lash

Rocker cover Roof rack Saloon

Valve cover Car-top carrier Sedan

Crownwheel

Ring gear (of differential)

Disc (brake)

Rotor/disk

Seized

MA

Side indicator lights

Frozen

Side marker lights

Drop arm

Pitman arm

Side light

:

Drop head coupe

Convertible

Silencer

-

Muffler

Dynamo

Generator (DC)

Spanner

es

Wrench

Earth (electrical)

Ground

Sill panel (beneath doors)

Engineer’s blue

Prussion blue

Split cotter (for valve spring cap)

Estate car Exhaust manifold

Station wagon

Split pin

Cotter pin

Header

Steering arm

Spindle arm

Fast back (Coupe)

Hard top

Sump

Oil pan

Fault finding/diagnosis

Trouble shooting

Tab washer

Tang; lock

Float chamber

Float bowl

Tailgate

Liftgate

Free-play Freewheel Gudgeon pin

Lash Coast Piston pin or wrist pin

Tappet Thrust bearing Top gear

Valve lifter Throw-out bearing High

Gearchange

Shift

Trackrod (of steering

Halfshaft

Axle-shaft

Transmission

Handbrake

Parking brake

Tyre

Tire

Hood Hot spot Indicator

Soft top Heat riser Turn signal

Van Vice Wheel nut

Vise Lug nut

Dome lamp Counter shaft

Windscreen Wing/mudguard

Windshield Fender

Gearbox

Transmission

de

Interior light ee Layshaft (of gearbox

Parking light

is

Trailing shoe (of brake) ‘

Rocker panel Lock (for valve spring retainer)

Tie-rod (or connecting rod)

Secondary shoe

Whole drive line Panel wagon/van

————— ree

Miscellaneous points —_e———sesoese

An “Oil seal” is fitted to components lubricated by grease! A “Damper” is a ‘’Shock absorber’’ it damps out bouncing, and absorbs shocks of bump impact. Both names are correct, and both are used haphazardly. Note that British drum brakes are different from the Bendix type that is common in America, so different descriptive names result, The shoe end furthest from the hydraulic wheel cylinder is on a pivot; interconnection between the shoes as on Bendix brakes is most

uncommon. Therefore the phrase “Primary” or "Secondary" shoe does not apply. A shoe is said to be Leading or Trailing. A “Leading”

shoe is one on which a point on the drum, as it rotates forward, reaches the shoe at the end worked by the hydraulic cylinder before the anchor end. The opposite is a trailing shoe, and this one has no self servo from the wrapping effect of the rotating drum.

Introduction to the Triumph 1500 TC and the Dolomite 1500 and 1500 HL The Triumph 1500 TC was introduced in October of 1973 witha conventional rear wheel drive to replace the earlier front wheel drive models. It was superseded in March 1976 by the Dolomite 1500 which was basically the same, but had the addition of a front torsion

bar. The 1500 HL is a more luxurious version of the Dolomite 1500. All models have the same basic body styling, and use engines and gearboxes which have been used on other Leyland models.

General dimensions, weights and capacities 1500 TC 8 ft OF in (2454 mm)

Dolomite 1500

8 ft 02 in (2454 mm)

4 ft 5 in (1346 mm) 4 ft2 in (1270 mm)

4 ft 54 in (1352 mm)

30 ft 6 in (9.3 m)

30 ft 6 in (9.3 m)

13 ft 6 in (4110 mm) 4 ft 6 in (1372 mm)

13 ft 64 in (4122 mm) 5 ft 23 in (1588 mm) 4 ft6 in (1372 mm)

1960 Ib (888 kg) 2072 |b (937 kg) 2884 Ib (1314 kg)

2006 Ib (910 kg) 2116 Ib (960 kg) 2954 Ib (1340 kg)

Front NVidthiz= door tO;dOOt meme tess chote corre fe) oe ieee Gta asS Ba Fw gs es Seat Width” \gepeeaeetene meee are saps c.cs sen vie pak meee Neca. oak, ore si

49.25 in (1251 mm)

49.25 in (1251 mm)

23 in (5684 mm)

23 in (584 mm)

Seat height: (floontowushion)'y

oiua. 2 sila. 2

12 in (305 mm)

12 in (305 mm)

Seat depth: © ance eee ence i hmge Cal ea tem aie Ra sets wie. wd Headroom (framiseatcusiion)im «a leks suet eis te ctefa elacr ie Wsaasbepens Squab torlutch pedalltmax) oes cen. acne totrie ets atemesc corte se ae Steering wheel clearance from seat squab (max) ..............05:

19 in (483 mm)

19 in (483 mm) 38 in (965 mm) 38.5 in (978 mm) 19 in (483 mm) 10 in (254 mm) 6.50 in (165 mm)

ECON

2

ss

TUFNING CitClas®

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Overall dimensions MSOPIQEI VS oevoinn. sane coeMeMeRE Leneins URN vii eede, «ameceewe Sena v,> siete atte aaa VICES isicc's 5, ens ho Sem eR aon watt seaeeiSEM as. atts trietous, BRE sayeiie ames

Weights (approx) Dry (exextra equipment). . heciettreatiene tees) fete ec. sw wee Basic kerb (inc: toolsstueljoil'andiwater)memmee « sis elec ges > oles ake Gross vehicle'weight(maxpmere.cusk ate cos etiels ads cos wtabens wake © 4

5ft 13 in (1568 mm)

4 ft2in (1270 mm)

Interior dimensions (seats empty)

macwy aus settee

Terr

(mir) Ras, eseeare cleps ead yetatts se Steering wheel clearance from seat cushion (nominal) ............. Rear Rear seat effective width wmmane oe iene ate Mee aloes ee eters! «crepe Rear seat height— tloontocushiony yi « ollets eld ateuslca ow » alee « Rearseat depth. wes orm marten ton rokeyahe GiSuone ete ehetings, arte 5% aNscalre > Rear headroomitromiseatcusiiOn)e a. cvetieenats els eo Goss ie sues 6c

Rear squab to back of front seat (max) ... 1.26... eee eee eee eee (Calla ee Satta aadee WrerOke? Larieg Aaceceene rene. ace Luggage compartment MYcfordaMUnptehal ss — crGey Cosco Soo A7O Gusti cide MORE role ovina a maebecuT SBSEOD WidthipetWween wheel ancheGSi sa)erteeienans otal wasn Gln susie es stb arale

Capacities Os date eereine stveach enci cies, othe seinen . Slacken the locknut on the adjustment screw then torque tighten

the screw to 5 Ibf ft (0.7 kgf m). 3. Back the screw off 3/4 of a turn then hold it stationary in this posi-

tion whilst tightening the locknut.

selector lever and rod. 2 Take out the four cover bolts and withdraw the servo assembly, spring and joint washer. 3. Remove the spring and withdraw the piston (Fig. 6.28). 4 Take off all the O-rings from the piston and body, and discard them. 5 Clean all the parts in petrol and wipe them dry with a lint-free rag. 6 Inspect the piston for scoring, corrosion or other damage and

4

Fit the access plate and refit the carpet.

36

Rear brake band — adjustment

renew if necessary.

1 2

Drive the car onto a ramp or raise it on jacks. Apply the handbrake. Select ‘P’: raise the ramp and slacken the adjuster locknut.

unobstructed. 8 It is preferable serviceable.

3. Torque tighten the screw to 5 Ibf ft (0.7 kgf m) then back it off 7 of a turn. Hold the screw stationary in this position and tighten the locknut. 4 5 Lower the car to the ground.

RT I a LT ES 37 Front servo —removal, overhaul and refitting EE [iin 1 With the handbrake on and ‘N’ selected, remove the gearbox

2 Locknut

7

9

Inspect the cover for damage

Assemble

to renew

and check that the passages are

the spring, unless

it is known

to be

the unit in the reverse order to dismantling, using new

O-rings and a new gasket.

38

Rear servo — removal, overhaul and refitting

1

Remove the front exhaust pipe, then take out the six bolts on the

rear servo cover.

Chapter 6 Gearbox, overdrive and automatic transmission

102

Fig. 6.28 Component parts of front servo (Sec. 37)

5 6 7 8

1 Joint washer (gasket) 2 O-ring 3 Spring 4 Piston O-rings

Piston Cover O-rings Cover Screw

Fig. 6.29 Component parts of rear servo (Sec. 38) 1 2 3 4

Screw Cover Piston O-rings Piston

5 6 7 8

Spring Pushrod Joint washer (gasket) O-rings

2 Withdraw the servo assembly, joint washer, spring and pushrod. 3 Remove the pushrod and spring; then withdraw the piston. 4 Take off all the O-rings from the piston and body and discard them. 5 Clean all the parts in petrol and wipe them dry with a lint-free rag. 6 Inspect the piston for scoring, corrosion or other damage and renew if necessary.

7 Inspect the cover for damage and check that the passages are unobstructed. 8 It is preferable to renew the spring if possible unless it is known to be serviceable. 9 Assemble the unit in the reverse order to dismantling, using new O-rings and a new gasket. 10 Finally refit the front exhaust pipe.

Fig. 6.30 Rear extension oil seal (Sec. 40) 39

Rear extension — removal and refitting

1 Drive the car on to a ramp or have jacks available. Chock the wheels and select ‘N’. 2 Remove the propeller shaft flange connection and support the weight of the shaft. 3 Remove the exhaust pipe bracket from the transmission unit. 4 Support the transmission unit under its sump, using a suitable jack. b 5 Remove the four nuts which secure the support cradle to the underframe and the two nuts which secure the rear extension to the support cradle. Note the washers and spacers used. 6 Lift away the cradle. 7 Disconnect the speedometer drive gear. 8 Whilst restraining the flange from turning, unscrew the locking nut then pull the flange off.

9 Unscrew the flange restraining bolts (note the special head on some bolts and their respective positions). 10 Withdraw the rear extension. 11 Refitment is a straightforward reversal of the removal procedure, but make sure that a new flange gasket is used.

1 Oil seal 2 Rear extension

4 Washer 5 Nut

3 Drive flange

—— 40

Extension rear oil seal — renewal

ee 1 Carry out the procedure given in paragraphs 1, 2 and 8 of the previous Section. 2 Prise out the existing oil seal.

3 Using a suitable drift, carefully drive in a new lubricate the lip of the seal. 4 Refit the parts in the reverse order to removal.

oil seal. Lightly

area BeOS intl ta etn ethers ea 41 Governor— removal, overhaul and refitting eee ee eee ae 1 Remove the rear extension as described in Section 39. 2 Take off the speedometer drive clamp tube and withdraw the drive

gear.

Chapter 6 Gearbox, overdrive and automatic transmission

103

eS

3 Unscrew the counterweight from the base of the governor, taking note of the spring washer. Withdraw the governor from the shaft. 4 5 Prise off the weight retaining circlip and remove the weight. Withdraw the stem, spring and valve. 6 7 ash all the parts in petrol and dry with a lint-free rag. 8 Check the parts for burrs and scoring and for any signs of thread damage. It is best to renew the spring, even if it is apparently satisfactory. 10 When reassembling, first insert the valve into the body. 11 Next, fit the spring to the stem; then fit both parts into the body. 12 Refit the weight and a new circlip. 13 Refit the governor and refit the counterweight and spring washer. 14 Refit the speedometer drive gearand clamp tube. 15 Refit the rear extension. —_——_——_:?}??

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Fig. 12.12 Parcel shelf securing points — 1500 HL (Sec. 17) 7 2 3

Ventilator hose Support tube screws Angle support screws

'

4 5 6

Heated

rear window

switch

Screws Fasteners

Reinforcement strap screws

Support tube bolt Support tube bolt 9 Support tube 10 Parcel shelf bracket screws

Z

180 Chapter underframe ee pe at12 aBodywork a and NN, 3 Place a container of approximately 1 pint (1 litre) capacity beneath the heater, then take off the hoses taking care to catch any coolant which flows out. 4 Remove the demister duct from the heater. 5 Disconnect the hooked end of the air vent control cable from the central lever. 6 Disconnect the two electrical leads from the central lever, noting

their respective colours to prevent mix-up when refitting. 7 Remove the nuts, bolts and washers which secure the heater unit to the air distribution duct (one bolt each side).

8

a

eae

een

12 Slacken the two clips and ease off the moulded plastic air hose. 13 Undo the three bolts securing the blower motor to the bulkhead and lift away the blower assembly. Note that the earth cable is connected to the lower of the two mounting bolts. 14 In both cases, refitting is the reverse sequence to removal. Refer to Chapter

2, and

refill the cooling

system.

sealant

A mastic

such

as

Seelastik should be used to seal the fan motor to the bulkhead. Before refitting the control cable, ensure the central control lever is in the OFF position and the fan motor flap lever is positioned fully to the left.

Remove the four bolts, washers and spring washers which secure

the heater unit to the bulkhead. 9 The heater unit can now be removed but take care ndt to damage the matrix. Have a supply of rags handy, or cover the floor with newspapers, to absorb any spillage of coolant as the unit is withdrawn. 10 If it is necessary to remove the heater blower motor, note the cable connections to the motor and disconnect the cables from their connectors. Then remove the screen washer bottle. 11 Slacken the trunnion bolt and detach the air control cable from the air valve.

19 Heater airflow control cable — removal and refitting 1. Slacken the trunnion on the blower flap lever and detach the cable. 2 Detach the inner cable from the fan switch and pull the cable assembly clear. 3. To refit, reverse the removal instructions, ensuring that the fan switch is in the OFF position and the fan motor flap lever is positioned fully to the left.

20

Heater water valve — removal and refitting

1. Detach the control rod from the locating hole in the end of the valve stem. 2 Slacken the screw that secures the valve retainer on the shoulder of the valve; withdraw the retainer and valve.

3

Refit in the reverse order to removal, ensuring that the control rod

is positioned to allow free movement of the valve. :

Fig. 12.13 Heater unit disconnection points (Sec. 18) 1 2 3 4

Bulkhead gaskets Hose clips Rear gasket Switch knob

5 6 7 8

Control cable Motor leads Bottom bracket bolts Rear bracket bolts

Fig. 12.14 Fan motor, flap valve and ducting hose (Sec. 18) 7 Windscreen washer bottle 2 Motor leads

3 Flap valve lever and trunnion bolt 4 Hose and clips

21

Heater fan motor switch — removal and refitting

1

Remove the three grub screws securing the control knobs and pull

off the knobs. 2 Next, remove the escutcheon by releasing the two bolts, nuts and washers that secure it to the facia.

Fig. 12.15 Heater water valve (Sec. 20) 1 Control rod 2 Retainer and screw

3

Valve components

Chapter 12 Bodywork and underframe

23

Fig. 12.16 Removing fan motor switch (Sec. 21) 1 Control! knobs and clips 2 Escutcheon and locating bolts 3 Control cable

4 Motor leads 5 Switch screws

181

Bonnet lock control cable — removal and refitting

1 Open the bonnet and support on its stay. 2 Slacken the nut and detach the release cable from the trunnion located at the lock lever. Loosen the pinch bolt. 3 Detach the release cable and its clip from the bonnet lock. 4 Remove the screw that secures each combined rubber buffer and cable clip to the wing valance. Lift away the two rubber clips. 5 Undo and remove the nut and shakeproof washer that secures the outer cable to the body side bracket mounted below the facia panel. 6 Carefully withdraw the control cable assembly through the body grommet. 7 Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal. It is however, necessary to adjust the inner cable. Push the release knob in fully and make sure that the lock release lever is not pre-loaded by the release cable. 8 There must be a minimum movement of 0.5 in (12.7 mm) prior to the release of the bonnet. To adjust, slacken the cable trunnion nut and re-adjust the cable so that the bonnet is released within 0.5 to 2.0 in (30 to 50 mm) of cable movement. Note: /f at any time the release cable breaks when the bonnet is closed, careful manipulation of a screwdriver through the air intake grille in the bonnet lid will release the catch.

3. Unhook the control cable from the switch and disconnect the two leads: it is best to note the connection points of the leads before

24

removal, rather than have confusion when refitting.

1 Open the bonnet and hold open using the bonnet stay. To act as a datum for refitting, mark the position of the hinges using a soft pencil. 2 If wished, the bonnet stay can be removed at this stage by taking out the split pin, washers and clevis pin (photo). Alternatively, remove the hinge bolts first as described in paragraph 3. 3 With the help of an assistant to take the weight of the bonnet, remove the four bolts, spring washers and plain washers, then the two location plates, which secure the hinges (photo). 4 Lift the bonnet away from the car. If the stay has not yet been removed, ease the bonnet first towards the rear of the engine compartment a little and withdraw the stay from the large opening in the stay support. In this way the stay need not be removed from the bonnet. 5 Refitting the bonnet is the reverse of removal for whichever method was adopted.

4

Remove

the two screws that secure the switch and lift it out of the

panel. 5

Refit in the reverse order to removal.

eS

22 Bonnet lock — removal and refitting ee a e Wt

eee

1 Open the bonnet and support it on its stay. Slacken the nut and detach the release cable from the trunnion 2 located at the lock lever, loosen the pinch bolt.

3.

Detach the release cable and its clip from the bonnet lock (photo).

Undo and remove the three bolts, plain and spring washers secur4 ing the bonnet lock. Lift away the bonnet lock. Undo and remove the two nuts, plain and shakeproof washers that 5 secure the catch assembly to the underside of the bonnet. 6 Detach the return spring and catch assembly. 7 Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal. Carefully lower the bonnet and check the alignment of the catch 8 with the lock hole. If misaligned, slacken the fixing bolts and move the assembly slightly. Retighten the fixing bolts.

9

Close

the bonnet

and check

its alignment with the body wing

panels. If necessary reposition the catch assembly. 10 The bonnet must contact the rubber stops. To adjust the position of the stops, remove the screws and place packing beneath the stops until the bonnet will close sufficiently to just compress the stops, thus eliminating any rattle. 11. Lubricate all moving parts and finally check the bonnet and release

operation.

25

Bonnet -— removal and refitting

Boot lid — removal and refitting

1 It is recommended that a blanket be placed under the top side of the lid and spread over the wing panels to act as a precaution against scratching of the paintwork during removal or refitting. or safety reasons disconnect the battery earth terminal. Also 2 detach the wires leading to the lid from the top left-hand corner of the luggage compartment. 3. With the help of an assistant to take the weight of the boot lid, remove the four securing bolts. Should it be necessary to remove the hinges, disconnect the lead 4 from the boot light switch and pull it clear of the hinge. Remove the single nut, bolt and washers from the inside of the 5

“a

22.3 Bonnet lock

24.2 Bonnet stay clevis

“e

24.3. Removing location plate

‘ .

the

a

bonnet

a) ‘

hinge

ne

and

182

Chapter 12 Bodywork and underframe

N

26.1 Bonnet latch fixings

27.8 Rear bumper fixings

left-hand hinge. 6 Finally remove the four nuts and washers and lift away the hinge and torsion bar assemblies. 7 Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal.

a

ee 26 Boot lid lock striker — removal and refitting eer

ee

Lock 1

Open the boot lid and remove the three bolts, spring washers and

rider support. 3 Whilst supporting

the bumper,

remove

the two

screws

fixing bracket then lift the bumper and brackets clear of the car. 4 Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal.

at each

Rear bumper 5

Disconnect the two number plate lamp leads.

6 Remove the side trim pads in the luggage boot. There are two screws and one clip on each pad. 7 Remove the bolt, spring washer and plain washer which secure

each end of the bumper.

plain washers then lift off the latch (photo). 2 Rotate the locking ring through 90°. Withdraw the lock assembly and sealing ring, taking care not to damage the later. 3 Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal.

8 Remove the four bolts, spring washers and plain washers which secure the bumper to the fixing brackets (photo). 9 Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal.

Lock striker

————

4 Remove the eleven crosshead screws, which retain the trim pad. 5 Remove the three bolts, spring washers and plain washers, then lift off the striker. 6 Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal but before finally tightening the striker check that the boot lid is correctly aligned when closed.

28

Gearbox tunnel cover — removal and refitting

1 2 3 and 4 5

Remove the front seats as described in Section 15 of this Chapter. Remove the carpeting from the gearbox tunnel cover. Take out the two bolts at each end of the parcel shelf support tube the two crosshead screws which secure the front edge. Pull off the hand grip from the handbrake lever. Take out the fifteen bolts and four nuts which secure the tunnel to

ee ee a ee a 27 Bumpers — removal and refitting pe eS ee ee Front bumper 1 Remove the bumper.

2

a

ee

——— ee

ee

eee

ee ee

the floor. ee

the bolt, spring washer and plain washer at each end of

Remove the bolt, spring washer and plain washer on each under-

6 Break the carefully lift out 7 Refitting is mastic sealant and floor. Also the cover.

seal between the tunnel cover and the floor, then the tunnel over the gear lever. the reverse of the removal procedure but apply a film of such as Seelastik to the mating surfaces of the tunnel ensure that the seal retainers are correctly located in

Chapter

13 Supplement:

Revisions

and

information

on later models

Contents PFATHOCHIGEIONI teens cactee a ceteartncec cece nrescvoveuiReetabed svetetav lea cenacaceaccdhacesdarsansncveats

1

PA sesets SDGCITICALIONNS series sc cectratey see tacos coc vesocrsa ca sonscsaesennettnearaeneanctnoroenensaronn

2

Pinion bearing preload Electrical

PAI

Gly SYStSN iesrtech aaer nt eo

Distributor

PMUEOITIALIG

mien cine meth mgeet!

3

cable cam

4

bracket — adjustment

Propeller Shaft ...........:::ccccssccssesssssesensesssecececeecseesessesusesaseesesanensesneaeareeens

5

LEE

1.

SYSt@M .........::ccccsssesssssssessenscesssesscsssesscasesenecenssesnceensectesensoeses

Introduction

ee ee eee From the time of its introduction back in 1973 until the discontinuation of the model in 1980, the Triumph 1500 TC and Dolomite 1500 underwent very few major changes or modifications. This proves the worth of its practical and functional design, which was well proven

bes kn

Specifications

ih

Ae

er

1500) — removal

ee BOdYWOKK oe eeeeesessscstscssscseeeesesseecesusuenseenenensnsasecessceneveaseesensnseeeneneneasanenens Facia panel (Dolomite 1500) — removal and refitting Parcel shelf (Dolomite 1500) — removal and refitting

8

over the years of production. In order to use the Supplement to its best advantage it is suggested that it is referred to before the main Chapters of the manual: this will then ensure that any relevant information can be collected and accommodated into the procedures given in Chapters 1 to 12. Time and cost will therefore be saved and the particular job will be completed correctly.

SS SS 2

es

Temperature and fuel gauge (Dolomite 1500) — removal Speedometer and cable (Dolomite

CFANSITMSSIOMV ccs scecccrs tabsssoceeecetencesad cactuststusecectesesterssventsaseunavs

Downshift

6

Rear axle

Se

a

ons given at the start of each Chapter. The specifications listed below are supplementary to the main specificati

Propeller shaft (later Dolomite models) TYPO caaccssssnsessscccssssssssssssseeseensssnnceencencnsusssseneecccunssnereetensnanneensnansonencqnnnnertses

Two section, tubular with central bearing but without coupling flanges

Rear axle (with collapsible spacer for pinion bearing preload) Ibf in Drive flange retaining nut torque (with oil seal

FittOd) ccccecscccecesssesssscscssssssssssssssssssssssseccecnessnsssnnsunnsnnnsssussessesenssccsenccecccesnececeenennet 3 a

Downshift cable cam bracket — adjustment

A new distributor type was fitted from

1980 which has revised

pre-ignition centrifugal advance curve characteristics to prevent the some earlier affected which rpm 2000 at rumble t crankshaf and

models. and operation The new distributor is basically the same in design to that Chapter to the earlier type given in Chapter 4, therefore refer for removal, overhaul

14.9 to 23

ne 4 Automatic transmission ne

Ignition system

Distributor

13 to 20

kgf cm

and refitting procedures.

Later models fitted with automatic transmission are fitted with an adjustable downshift cable cam and bracket assembly to allow throttle valve gap adjustment without the need to remove the valve body. The does later type bracket has elongated holes for the fixing screws, but it on not have the lug which engaged in the throttle valve exhaust port earlier models. When fitting the later type bracket, ensure that the retaining screw

184

Chapter

13

Supplement

0-040" (Imm) GAUGE

DOWNSHIF

T

VALVE

BRACKET SECURING SCREWS

SOUARE NUTS ADJUSTABLE CAM BRACKET ASSY 4.15 447

It

SCREWS

THROTTLE VALVE EXHAUST PORT

Fig. 13.1 Later type adjustable cam bracket

(Sec 4)

Fig. 13.2 Cam bracket adjustment (Sec 4)

DOWNSHIFT

VALVE

ADJUSTABLE CAM & BRACKET ASSEMBLY

0-040'(mm) gauge

Fig. 13.3 Insert feeler gauge where indicated to adjust the cam

bracket (Sec 4) heads butt against the bracket whilst the square nuts bear against the

upper valve body, (located between

from turning.

the cast lugs), to prevent them

To adjust the bracket position first detach the downshift cable from the cam then loosen off the two retaining screws just enough to allow the bracket to slide towards the cam (producing a large clearance in the throttle valve exhaust port). Now insert a 0.040 in (1.0 mm) thick feeler gauge in between the cam heel and the downshift valve, then holding the cam against the feeler gauge move the bracket away from the cam to the point where the throttle valve and exhaust port gap just closes. Tighten the bracket screws

to secure

the bracket

in this position

and then

remove

the

feeler gauge. Check that, as the gauge is removed, the throttle valve moves

forwards to provide the correct exhaust port clearance.

The downshift cable can now be reattached to the cam. Check that the flat of the cam is against the downshift cable in the zero throttle position. Incorrect cam adjustment will give poor gear engagement.

Sse 5

Propeller shaft

ss sess 1 Later 1500 Dolomite variants are fitted with a modified propeller shaft unit which has the splined companion flange.

sliding yoke

2

of the

The

front

and

rear

sections

mounted

propeller

to the axle

shaft are joined

together by means of a male spline on the front section, and a female

splines on the rear section. A modified type of centre bearing mounting supports the joined sections of the shaft, midway between the two

flange ends.

3 The universal joints are identical to those used on early vehicles and are fully described in Chapter 7. To remove and refit the later type propeller shaft, proceed as follows.

4 Jack-up the rear of the vehicle and support on firmly based axlestands. Alternatively, position the rear of the vehicle on a ramp or over an inspection pit. Chock the front wheels. 5 The propeller is carefully balanced to fine limits and it is important that it is refitted in exactly the same position prior to its removal. Scratch marks on the gearbox, differential pinion and propeller shaft drive flanges for correct re-alignment when refitting. 6 Support the weight of the front section of the propeller shaft. Undo and remove the four gearbox drive flange nuts and bolts. 7 Support the weight of the rear section of the propeller shaft. Undo and remove the four axie companion flange nuts and bolts. 8 Undo and remove the two bolts, spring and plain washers that retain the centre bearing mounting to the body brackets. 9 Lift away the propeller shaft assembly, together with the centre mounting assembly, from the underside of the vehicle. 10 To separate the two halves of the propeller shaft assembly, first bend back the locking washer tab, then undo and remove the retaining bolt. Lift away the C-washer and tab washer. 11 Draw the front propeller shaft section away from the rear propeller shaft section universal joint splines.

12 Reconnection and refitting the two sections of the shaft is the reverse sequence to removal, but the following additional points should be noted.

fa)

(b)

Ensure that the mating marks scratched on the propeller shaft, gearbox and differential pinion flanges are lined up. Tighten the centre bearing mounting bolts to the specified torque setting.

(c)

-

Tighten the front and rear specitied torque setting.

flange

retaining

nuts

to

the

Centre bearing — removal and refitting 13 Remove the propeller shaft assembly as previously described in this Section. Separate the two halves. 14 Using a universal puller and a suitable thrust block (a suitable size bolt will do) draw. the centre bearing from the end of the front section of the propeller shaft. 15 To fit a new bearing simply drive it into position using a piece of suitable diameter metal tube. 16 Reconnect and refit the propeller shaft assembly, following the

reverse sequence to removal.

ee ee 6

ee

Rear axle

eee

Pinion bearing preload 1 Later models have a modified axle unit fitted where a collapsible spacer is used to set the pinion bearing preload setting instead of the shims used on earlier models. 2 Asimple way to identify the axle is to check the pinion flange nut. Axles with shims have a nut with split pin. Axles with a collapsibl e spacer have a nyloc nut with a protective cap over it. 3 Very accurately dot punch the relative position of the pinion nut to

Chapter 13.

185

Supplement

Fig. 13.4 Front and rear sections of the propeller shaft fitted to later models (Sec 5) 7 2 3

4 5 6

Centre bearing mounting Front shaft section Seal

7 8

Seal retainer Screw cap Retaining bolt

Front/rear propeller shaft and gearbox/rear axle flanges

2

Securing bolt and locknut

attachment (Sec 5)

Rear propeller shaft section Bolt

1 2

Bolt Spring washer

3. 4

Plain washer Centre bearing assembly

the end of the pinion shaft, also the end of the shaft in relation to the drive flange. Hold the pinion drive flange quite still (this is simply done by 4 bolting a length of flat steel bar to two of the holes in the drive flange) and then unscrew and remove the pinion nut and washer (counting the number of turns to remove the nut). Pull off the splined drive flange. This may be tight, in which case 5 tap it from the rear using a plastic-faced mallet. If the flange is very tight, use a two-legged puller. Prise out the oil seal with a screwdriver taking care not to damage 6 the pinion splines or oil seal seating. Install the new seal with the lips facing inward, after first having 7

Fig. 13.7 Rear propeller shaft section to centre bearing

1 2

C-washer Universal joints

Fig. 13.6 The centre bearing attachments (Sec 5)

Fig. 13.5 The propeller shaft attachments (Sec 5) 1

9 70

Rear shaft section Tab washer

3 4

Lockwasher C-washer

soaked it in oil for one hour. Smear the drive flange oil seal contact areas with oil and install 8 the flange. Hold the flange and tighten the self-locking (nyloc) nut (using the 9 the alignment number of turns noted on removal) very carefully until If the nut is before dismantling just coincide. made marks will be overtightened past the alignment marks, the collapsible spacer spacer to over-compressed and backing off the nut will not restore the have to be its original length. In this case, the differential will to tighten the dismantled and a new spacer fitted, so take great care

186

Chapter

13

Supplement

4

OR3 ae

aw Tf

7 £

Fig. 13.8 Connections to gauges and warning lights — Dolomite 1500 (Sec 7) No.

Colour

Code

Connection

Component

il

GW and B

Bulb holder

2 3 4 5) 6 if 8

LG GU R LG GB GR and B B

R.H. turn signal warning light

9 10 ihe 12

Lucar Lucar Bulb holder Lucar Lucar Bulb holder Eyelet

W and NY W and WN

Temperature indicator Temperature indicator Instrument illumination Fuel indicator Fuel indicator L.H. turn signal warning light Earth

Bulb holder Bulb holder

UW and B R and B

Bulb holder Bulb holder

Ignition warning light Oil pressure warning light Main beam warning light Instrument illumination

nut with sufficient force only to overcome the restriction of the nylon self-locking insert; as soon as the nut becomes stiff, check the position of the alignment marks. 10 The pinion bearing preload can be checked if the axle is raised, the roadwheels

removed

and a suitable

torque

wrench

attached

to the

pinion nut, or a cord wound round the drive flange and attached to a spring balance. The pull required to rotate the flange should be as shown in the Specifications in Chapter 8. 11 After the pinion oil seal has been renewed, always top up the rear axle lubricant.

SSS 7

Electrical system

SSeS

Temperature and fuel gauge (Dolomite and refitting

1500) — removal

1 Isolate the battery. 2 Remove the trim board from under the facia panel by prising it out of the four spring clips.

3 Unscrew the two knurled nuts that secure the instrument to the facia panel. The inboard nut must be removed, while the outboard nut need only be loosened. Withdraw the instrument. 4 Both gauges are secured to the instrument with two screws; these can be removed after the instrument is withdrawn sufficiently to obtain access to the screws. It may be found necessary to disconnect the

Lucar connectors, the panel light bulbholder and the turn signal warning light bulbholders. 5 Refit in the reverse manner to removal. Ensure that the earth lead eyelet is under the spring washer and knurled nut. Check that all bulbholders and Lucar connectors are refitted in their correct positions.

Speedometer and cable (Dolomite refitting 6

1500) — removal and

Disconnect the battery earth lead.

7 Unscrew the two knurled nuts, spring washers and release the clamp brackets. Pull the speedometer forward until it is possible to obtain access at the rear.

8 Pull out the panel light bulbholders and unscrew the trip reset knurled nut at the attachment to the facia support rail. 9 Depress the lever to release the catch from the annular groove in the boss. Pull the cable away from the instrument. 10 To remove the cable completely, jack up the car sufficiently high to allow access to the gearbox extension. Unscrew the knurled nut

from the speedometer drive. 11 Note the cable run in relation to other adjacent components from the speedometer down to the body panel aperture. Manoeuvre the

cable downwards through the grommet and detach it from the vehicle.

12 The inner cable can be removed on its own with a pair of longnosed pliers, gripping the end of the inner cable and pulling it out. This can be carried out as soon as the instrument is separated from the

187

Fig. 13.9

i} 2B 3

Instruments

and facia panel switches — Dolomite

Hazard warning switch (not fitted on UK models)

Choke outer cable — primary Flasher unit 4 Grommets Connecting sleeve 5 Choke outer cable — secondary 6 dh Choke inner cable Pivot and screw assembly 8 go Speedometer outer cable 10 Speedometer inner cable

ieGhip 12 Retaining plate 713 Locking nut

14 Spring washer 715 Rubber washer 716 Bezel

17 18

1500

(Sec 7)

Screw Voltage stabilizer

19 “2 in 1” instrument gauge 20 Dual brake warning light (not fitted on UK models) 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29

Speedometer assembly Bezel Windscreen wiper switch Light selector switch Bezel Rubber washer PVC washer Spacer nut Locknut

30

Light switch unit

31 32

Windscreen Spacer

wiper and washer switch

188

sx

q] | f

‘POS

by ga: 7

Fig. 13.10 1 2

5 6

3

Wiring harness connectors WNacelle screws Lower fixing screws

4

Demister grille

7

Centre screw Brackets and retaining

8& 9

SCrews

10

Vent hoses

Fig. 13.11 1 2 3

Trim board Finisher frame screws End bolts and cap nuts

4 5

Front panel securing points (Sec 8) Speedometer Upper securing nuts Windscreen wiper and

171 Studs 12 Disconnection

washer contro/

13

speedometer

point for cable

Switch grub screws

Parcel shelf securing points (Sec 8)

Support tube screws and nuts Support tube bolts

6

Air vent bracket bolts and nuts

7

Strap screws, and clips

washers

PE

a

Se

a

Chapter 13 Supplement a a a

combined inner and outer cable. Take care that the greasy inner cable does not contaminate the upholstery as it is withdrawn. 13 Refitting is the reverse of the removal instructions. The cable inner should be greased sparingly and fed into the cable outer, rotating it slightly to ease engagement of the squared end with the drive gear. Leave about one inch protruding to aid mating with the instrument.

oe 8

ee oo

Facia panel (Dolomite 2

a

ee

ae

Bodywork

—_—_————

1

a

189

10 Remove the six screws securing the demister grille. 11 Remove the one centre screw and washer below the grille. 12 Release the two brackets and their retaining screws also located beneath the grille. 13 Undo and remove the four nuts (two each end of the facia on the upper surface). 14 Pull the hoses off the vents. 15 Insert a hooked tool under the front lip of the facia and lift the studs out of the closed holes whilst the facia is pulled clear. 16 Refitting the facia is the reverse sequence to removal.

— —

1500) — removal and refitting

For safety reasons disconnect the battery earth terminal.

Remove the three screws and washers securing the two halves of

the steering column nacelles. 3 Using an electrician’s screwdriver, depress the pin securing the choke control knob and withdraw the knob. Unscrew the choke control

securing bezel. 4 Release the two water pipes from the rear of the screen washer pump. Note which pipe is connected to its associated nozzle. 5 Working from under the dash panel, detach the speedometer cable from the rear of the instrument by depressing the connector button. 6 Carefully pull the heater control knobs from their operating levers after removing the grub screws.

7 Make a note of the connection at the rear of the two multiconnectors located below the right-hand end of the facia and disconnect them. 8 Make a note of the cable connections at the various snap connectors and then detach all these cables. 9 Undo and remove the five screws and “fix’’ nuts that secure the bottom of the facia to the support rail.

Parcel shelf (Dolomite 17

First move

1500) — removal and refitting

the air distribution

lever to the OFF

position where

it

must stay during the removal and refitting of the parcel shelf. 18 Unscrew and remove the two screws which secure the radio mounting console in position. Withdraw the console. 19 Prise free the trim board which is secured by four clips. 20 Unscrew the Phillips screws that retain the finisher frame. 21 At the extremities of the parcel shelf, remove the four screws, nuts and cap nuts securing the shaft to the end brackets. 22 Remove the two bolts and washers and the two screws, washers and nuts securing the parcel tray to the support tube. 23 Release the two nuts and washers from the bolts that protrude through the brackets either side of the air vent and withdraw the bolts. 24 Remove the two screws that secure the parcel shelf to the metal strap on the right-hand side behind the steering column. Withdraw the strap and washers. 25 Ease the parcel shelf clear, carefully watching for any snagging with cables. 26 Refitting is the direct reversal of the removal procedure: ensure that the air distribution lever is in the OFF position.

Wiring diagram overleaf

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/ntroduction The vehicle owner who does his or her own maintenance according to the recommended schedules should not have to use this section of the manual very often. Modern component reliability is such that, provided those items subject to wear or deterioration are inspected or renewed at the specified intervals, sudden failure is comparatively rare. Faults do not usually just happen as a result of sudden failure, but develop over a period of time. Major mechanical failures in particular are usually preceded by characteristic symptoms over hundreds or even thousands of miles. Those components which

do occasionally fail without warning are often small and easily carried in the vehicle.

With any fault finding, the first step is to decide where to begin investigations. Sometimes this is obvious, but on other occasions a little detective work will be necessary. The owner who makes half a dozen haphazard adjustments or replacements may be successful in curing a fault (or its symptoms), but he will be none the wiser if the fault recurs and he may well have spent more time and money than was necessary. A calm and logical approach will be found to be more satisfactory in the long run. Always take into account any warning signs or abnormalities that may have been noticed in the period preceding the fault — power loss, high or low gauge readings, unusual noises or smells, etc — and remember that failure of components such as fuses or spark plugs may only be pointers to some underlying fault. The pages which follow here are intended to help in cases of failure to start or breakdown on the road. There is also a Fault Diagnosis Section at the end of each Chapter which should be consulted if the preliminary checks prove unfruitful. Whatever the fault, certain basic principles apply. These are as follows: Verify the fault. This is simply a matter of being sure that you know what the symptoms are before starting work. This is particularly important if you are investigating a fault for someone else who may not have described it very accurately. Don’t overlook the obvious. For example, if the vehicle won't start, is there petrol in the tank? (Don't take anyone else’s word on this particular point, and don’t trust the fuel gauge either!) If an electrical fault is indicated, look for loose or broken wires before digging out the test gear.

Cure the disease, not the symptom. Substituting a flat battery with a fully charged one will get you off the hard shoulder, but if the underlying cause is not attended to, the new battery will go the same way. Similarly, changing oil-fouled spark plugs for a new set will get you moving again, but remember that the reason for the fouling (if it wasn't simply an incorrect grade of plug) will have to be established and corrected.

Don't take anything for granted. Particularly, don’t forget that a ‘new’ component may itself be defective (especially if it’s been rattling round in the boot for months), and don’t leave components out of a fault diagnosis sequence just because they are new or recently fitted. When you do finally diagnose a difficult fault, you'll probably realise that all the evidence was there from the start.

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Electrical faults Electrical faults can be more puzzling than straightforward mechanical failures, but they are no less susceptible to logical analysis if the basic principles of operation are understood. Vehicle electrical wiring exists in extremely unfavourable conditions — heat, vibration and chemical attack — and the first things to look for are loose or corroded connections and broken or chafed wires, especially where the wires pass through holes in the bodywork or are subject to vibration. All metal-bodied vehicles in current production have one pole of the battery ‘earthed’, ie connected to the vehicle bodywork, and in nearly all modern vehicles it is the negative (—) terminal. The various electrical components — motors, bulb holders etc — are also connected to earth, either by means of a lead-or directly by their mountings. Electric current flows through the component and then back to the battery via the bodywork. If the component mounting is loose or corroded, or if a good path back to the battery is not available, the circuit will be incomplete and malfunction will result. The engine and/or gearbox are also earthed by means of flexible metal straps to the body or subframe; if these straps are loose or missing, starter motor, generator and ignition trouble may result. Assuming the earth return to be satisfactory, electrical faults will be due either to component malfunction or to defects in the current supply. Individual components are dealt with in Chapter 10. If supply wires are broken or cracked internally this results in an open-circuit, and the easiest way to check for this is to bypass the suspect wire temporarily with a length of wire having a crocodile clip or suitable connector at each end. Alternatively, a 12V test lamp can be used to verify the presence of supply voltage at various points along the wire and the break can be thus isolated. If a bare portion of a live wire touches the bodywork or other

earthed

metal part, the electricity will take the low-resistance

path

thus formed back to the battery: this is known as a short-circuit. Hopefully a short-circuit will blow a fuse, but otherwise it may cause burning of the insulation (and possibly further short-circuits) or even a fire. This is why it is inadvisable to bypass persistently blowing fuses with silver foil or wire.

Spares and too! kit Most vehicles are supplied only with sufficient tools for wheel changing; the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit detailed in Too/s and working facilities, with the addition of a hammer, is probably sufficient for those repairs that most motorists would’ consider attempting at the roadside. In addition a few items which can be fitted without too much trouble in the event of a breakdown should be carried. Experience and available space will modify the list below, but the following may save having to call on professional assistance: Spark plugs, clean and correctly gapped HT lead and plug cap — long enough to reach the plug furthest from the distributor : Distributor rotor, condenser and contact breaker points Drivebelt(s) — emergency type may suffice Spare fuses Set of principal light bulbs Tin of radiator sealer and hose bandage

a

Fault diagnosis ES

a

Exhaust bandage Roll of insulating tape Length of soft iron wire Length of electrical flex Torch or inspection lamp (can double as test lamp) Battery jump leads

193

Battery earth to body defective Engine earth strap loose or broken

Starter motor (or solenoid) wiring loose or broken Automatic transmission switch faulty

selector

in wrong

position,

or inhibitor

Ignition/starter switch faulty

Tow-rope /gnition waterproofing

Major mechanical failure (seizure) Starter or solenoid internal fault (see Chapter

aerosol Litre of engine oil Sealed can of hydraulic fluid Emergency windscreen Jubilee’ clips Tube of filler paste

10)

Starter motor turns engine slowly Partially discharged

battery

(recharge,

use jump

leads, or push

start)

If spare fuel is carried, a can designed for the purpose should be

used to minimise risks of leakage and collision damage. A first aid kit

and a warning triangle, whilst not at present compulsory in the UK, are obviously sensible items to carry in addition to the above. When touring abroad it may be advisable to carry additional spares which, even if you cannot fit them yourself, could save having to wait while parts are obtained. The items below may be worth considering: Throttle cable Cylinder head gasket Alternator brushes Fuel pump repair kit Tyre valve core

Battery terminals loose or corroded Battery earth to body defective Engine earth strap loose

Starter motor (or solenoid) wiring loose Starter motor internal fault (see Chapter 10)

Starter motor spins without turning engine Flat battery Starter motor pinion sticking on sleeve Flywheel gear teeth damaged or worn Starter motor mounting bolts loose

Engine turns normally but fails to start

One of the motoring organisations will be able to advise availability of fuel etc in foreign countries.

on

Damp or dirty HT leads and distributor cap (crank engine check for spark) Dirty or incorrectly gapped distributor points (if applicable) No fuel in tank (check for delivery at carburettor)

and

Excessive choke (hot engine) or insufficient choke (cold engine) Fouled

Engine will not start

Engine fails to turn when starter operated Flat battery (recharge, use jump leads, or push start) Battery terminals loose or corroded

or

incorrectly

gapped

spark

plugs

regap) Other ignition system fault (see Chapter 4) Other fuel system fault (see Chapter 3) Poor compression (see Chapter 1) Major mechanical failure (eg camshaft drive)

NEGATIVE

18in. MIN

DISCHARGED BATTERY

Jump start lead connections for negative earth vehicles — connect leads in the order shown

(remove,

clean

and

194

Fault diagnosis Fuel tank filler vent blocked

(suction will be evident on releasing

cap) Carburettor needle valve sticking Carburettor jets blocked (fuel contaminated) Other fuel system fault (see Chapter 3)

Engine cuts out — other causes Serious overheating Major mechanical failure (eg camshaft drive)

Engine overheats

/gnition (no-charge) warning light illuminated Slack or broken drivebelt — retension or renew (Chapter 2)

[gnition warning light not illuminated

A simple test lamp is useful for tracing electrical faults

Engine fires but will not run Insufficient choke (cold engine) Air leaks at carburettor or inlet manifold Fuel starvation (see Chapter 3) Ballast resistor defective, or other ignition fault (see Chapter 4)

Coolant loss due to internal or external leakage (see Chapter 2) Thermostat defective Low oil level Brakes binding Radiator clogged externally or internally Engine waterways clogged Ignition timing incorrect or automatic advance malfunctioning Mixture too weak Note: Do not add cold water to an overheated engine or damage may result

Engine cuts out and will not restart

Low engine oil pressure

Engine cuts out suddenly — ignition fault

Gauge reads low or warning light illuminated with engine running

Loose or disconnected LT wires Wet HT leads or distributor cap (after traversing water splash) Coil or condenser failure (check for spark)

Other ignition fault (see Chapter 4)

Engine misfires before cutting out — fuel fault Fuel tank empty

Fuel pump defective or filter blocked (check for delivery)

Oil level low or incorrect grade Defective gauge or sender unit Wire to sender unit earthed Engine overheating Oil filter clogged or bypass valve defective Oil pressure relief valve defective Oil pick-up strainer clogged

Carrying a few spares can save you a long walk!

Fault diagnosis

”

195

“38

Crank engine and check for a spark. Note use of insulated pliers — dry cloth or a rubber glove will suffice

Oil pump worn or mountings loose Worn main or big-end bearings Note: Low oi! pressure in a high-mileage engine at tickover is not necessarily a cause for concern. Sudden pressure loss at speed is far more significant. In any event, check the gauge or warning light sender before condemning the engine.

Engine noises

fuel pipe from carburettor and check that fuel is being delivered

Leaking carburettor or manifold gasket Blowing head gasket

Tapping or rattling Incorrect valve clearances Worn valve gear Worn timing chain or belt

Broken piston ring (ticking noise)

Pre-ignition (pinking) on acceleration Incorrect grade of fuel Ignition timing incorrect Distributor faulty or worn Worn or maladjusted carburettor Excessive carbon build-up in engine

Whistling or wheezing noises Leaking vacuum

Remove

hose

Knocking or thumping Unintentional mechanical Worn fanbelt

contact (eg fan blades)

Peripheral component fault (generator, water pump etc) Worn big-end bearings (regular heavy knocking, perhaps less under load) Worn main bearings (rumbling and knocking, perhaps worsening under load) Piston slap (most noticeable when cold)

Safety first! Professional motor mechanics are trained in safe working procedures. However enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job in hand, do take the time to ensure that your safety is not put at risk. A moment's lack of attention can result in an accident, as can failure to observe

certain elementary

precautions.

There will always be new ways of having accidents, and the following points do not pretend to be a comprehensive list of all dangers; they are intended rather to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safety-conscious approach to all work you carry out on your vehicle.

electrical short-circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, or even by static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite petrol vapour, which in a confined space is highly explosive. Always disconnect the battery earth (ground) terminal before working on any part of the fuel system, and never risk spilling fuel on : to a hot engine or exhaust. It is recommended that a fire extinguisher of a type suitable for fuel and electrical fires is kept handy in the garage or workplace at all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with water.

Fumes

Essential DOs and

DON Ts

DON'T rely on a single jack when working underneath the vehicle. Always use reliable additional means of support, such as axle stands, securely placed under a part of the vehicle that you know will not give way. DON'T attempt to loosen or tighten high-torque nuts (e.g. wheel hub nuts) while the vehicle is on a jack; it may be pulled off. DON'T start the engine without first ascertaining that the transmission is in neutral (or ‘Park’ where applicable) and the parking brake applied. DON'T suddenly remove the filler cap from a hot cooling system — cover it with a cloth and release the pressure gradually first, or you may get scalded by escaping coolant. DON'T attempt to drain oil until you are sure it has cooled sufficiently to avoid scalding you. DON'T grasp any part of the engine, exhaust or catalytic converter without first ascertaining that it is sufficiently cool to avoid burning you. DON'T syphon toxic liquids such as fuel, brake fluid or antifreeze by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin. DON'T inhale brake lining dust — it is injurious to health. DON'T allow any spilt oil or grease to remain on the floor — wipe it up straight away, before someone slips on it. DON'T use ill-fitting spanners or other tools which may slip and cause injury. DON'T attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability — get assistance. DON'T rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts. DON'T allow children or animals in or around an unattended vehicle. DO wear eye protection when using power tools such as drill, sander, bench grinder etc, and when working under the vehicle. DO use a barrier cream on your hands prior to undertaking dirty jobs — it will protect your skin from infection as well as making the dirt easier to remove afterwards; but make sure your hands aren't left slippery.

DO keep loose clothing (cuffs, tie etc) and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts. DO remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle — especially the electrical system. DO ensure that any lifting tackle used has a safe working load rating adequate for the job. DO keep your work area tidy — it is only too easy to fall over articles left lying around. DO get someone to check periodically that all is well, when working alone on the vehicle. DO carry out work in a logical sequence and check that everything is correctly assembled and tightened afterwards. DO remember that your vehicle's safety affects that of yourself and others. If in doubt on any point, get specialist advice. IF, in spite of following these precautions, you are unfortunate enough to injure yourself, seek medical attention as soon as possible.

Fire Remember at all times that petrol (gasoline) is highly flammable. Never smoke, or have any kind of naked flame around, when working on the vehicle. But the risk does not end there — a spark caused by an

Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconscious-

ness and even death if inhaled to any extent. Petrol (gasoline) vapour comes into this category, as do the vapours from certain solvents such as trichloroethylene. Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated area.

When carefully.

using cleaning

fluids and

solvents,

Never use materials from unmarked

read the instructions containers — they may

give off poisonous vapours. Never run the engine of a motor vehicle in an enclosed space such as a garage. Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide which is extremely poisonous; if you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the workplace. If you are fortunate enough to have the use of an inspection pit, never drain or pour petrol, and never run the engine, while the vehicle is standing over it; the fumes, being heavier than air, will concentrate in the pit with possibly lethal results.

The battery Never cause a spark, or allow a naked light, near the vehicle's battery. It will normally be giving off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive. Always disconnect the battery earth (ground) terminal before working on the fuel or electrical systems. If possible, loosen the filler plugs or cover when charging the battery from an external source. Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery may burst. : Take care when topping up and when carrying the battery. The acid electrolyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be allowed to contact the eyes or skin. If you ever need to prepare electrolyte yourself, always add the acid slowly to the water, and never the other way round. Protect against splashes by wearing rubber gloves and goggles. When jump starting a car using a booster battery, for negative earth (ground) vehicles, connect the jump leads in the following

sequence:

First connect

one

jump

lead

between

the positive

(+)

terminals of the two batteries. Then connect the other jump lead first to the negative (—) terminal of the booster battery, and then to a good

earthing (ground) point on the vehicle to be started, at least 18 in (45 cm) from the battery if possible. Ensure that hands and jump leads are clear of any moving parts, and that the two vehicles do not touch. Disconnect the leads in the reverse order.

Mains electricity When using an electric power tool, inspection light etc, which works from the mains, always ensure that the appliance is correctly connected to its plug and that, where necessary, it is properly earthed (grounded). Do not use such appliances in damp conditions and, again, beware of creating a spark or applying excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel vapour.

/gnition HT voltage A severe electric shock can result from touching certain parts of the ignition system, such as the HT leads, when the engine is running or being cranked, particularly if components are damp or the insulation is defective. Where an electronic ignition system is fitted, the HT voltage is much higher and could prove fatal.

Conversion

factors

Length (distance) Inches (in) Feet (ft) Miles

X X X

25.4 0.305 1.609

=Millimetres (mm) =Metres (m) = Kilometres (km)

& x

0.0394 3.281 0.621

= Inches (in) = Feet (ft) = Miles

Volume (capacity)

7

Cubic inches (cu in; in’)

X 16.387

=Cubic centimetres (cc; cm’)

= Cubic inches (cu in; in’)

Imperial pints (Imp pt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) US quarts (US qt) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) imperial gallons (Imp gal) US gallons (US gal)

X xX X X X X X

0.568 1.137 1.201 0.946 4.546 1.201 3.785

=Litres (I) = Litres (l) =US quarts (US qt) =Litres (I) = Litres (I) =US gallons (US gal) =Litres (I)

= = = =

X X

28.35 0.454

=Grams (g) =Kilograms (kg)

= Ounces (oz) = Pounds (Ib)

X X X

0.278 4.448 0.1

=Newtons (N) =Newtons (N) =Kilograms-force

(kgf; kg)

= Ounces-force (ozf; oz) = Pounds-force (Ibf; Ib) = Newtons (N)

X

0.070.

= Kilograms-force

per square

Imperial pints (Imp pt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) US quarts (US qt)

= Imperial gallons (Imp gal) = Imperial gallons (Imp gal) = US gallons (US gal)

xX OX KOK KK xx

Mass (weight) Ounces (oz) Pounds (Ib)

Force Ounces-force (ozf; oz) Pounds-force (Ibf; |b) Newtons (N)

X< xX x

Pressure Pounds-force

per square

inch

(psi; Ibf/in?; |b/in?) Pounds-force

14.223

= Pounds-force

centimetre (kgf/cm?; kg/cm?)

per square inch

X

0.068

=Atmospheres

14.696

(atm)

= Pounds-force

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?) Pounds-force

per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in?: Ib/in?) per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in)

per square inch

X

0.069

14.5

=Bars

= Pounds-force

per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)

(psi; Ibf/in?: |b/in7) Pounds-force per square inch

X

6.895

X

0.01

0.145

= Kilopascals (kPa)

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?) Kilopascals (kPa)

= Kilograms-force

per square

GOS eS. eure OSD, Py

98.1

= Pounds-force

per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in?: Ib/in?) = Kilopascals (kPa)

centimetre (kgf/cm?; kg/cm?)

Torque (moment of force) Pounds-force

inches

X

1.152

(Ibf in; Ib in) Pounds-force (Ibf in; Ib in) Pounds-force

=Kilograms-force

0.868

centimetre

inches

X

0.113

=Newton

inches

(lbf in; Ib in)

8.85

metres (Nm)

= Pounds-forte

inches

(Ibf in; Ib in)

inches

X

0.083

= Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft)

(Ibf in; Ib in),

Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft)

X

0.138

: Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft) Newton

= Pounds-force

(kgf cm; kg cm)

metres

(Nm)

=Kilograms-force

metres

(kgf m; kg m)

metres (Nm)

X

1.356

=Newton

X

0.102

=Kilograms-force

metres

OS. AOS EOS Sa ae

= Pounds-force

inches

F.233

(Ib€ in; Ib in) = Pounds-force

feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft)

0.738 9.804

= Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft) = Newton metres (Nm)

(kgf m; kg m)

Power Horsepower (hp)

=Watts (W)

X

1.609

= Kilometres per hour (km/hr; kph) Xx

0.621

= Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

X X

0.354 0.425

= Kilometres per litre (km/I) =Kilometres per litre (km/I)

2.625 2:352

= Miles per gallon, Imperial (mpg) = Miles per gallon, US (mpg)

Temperature =

= Horsepower (hp)

745.7

Fuel consumption* Miles per gallon, Imperial (mpg) Miles per gallon, US (mpg)

0.0013

X

Velocity (speed) Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

Degrees Fahrenheit

12

(°C x 1.8) + 32

Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; °C)

(i/100km), */t is common practice to convert from miles per gallon (mpg) to litres/100 kilometres 235 = km 1/100 x (US) mpg and 282 = km 1/100 x (Imperial) where mpg

= (°F - 32) x 0.56

Index A

bumpers — 182 door dismantling and reassembly — 173,

Accelerator see Throttle Accessories (electrical) — 138

door hinges — 172 door rattles — 172

Air cleaner — 43 Airflow control cable (heater) — 180 Alignment (wheel) — 167 Alternator general description — 130 removal and refitting — 130 servicing — 130 testing — 130 Antifreeze — 39 Anti-roll bar (Dolomite) — 158 Automatic transmission — 99 et seq Automatic transmission bypass pipe — 103 downshift cable — 101, 104, 183 fault diagnosis — 107 front brake band adjustment — 101 front servo — 101 general description — 99 governor — 102 hand lever turret — 104 oil seal (rear extension) — 102 rear brake band adjustment — 101 rear extension — 102 rear extension oil seal — 102 rear servo — 101 removal and refitting — 100 restrictor valve — 103 reverse lamp switch — 103

177

door removal and refitting — 172 facia panel — 178, 189 fan motor — 179, 180 gearbox tunnel cover — 182 general description — 169 heater unit — 179 maintenance — 169 parcel shelf — 179, 189 seats — 178 striker plate (door) — 177 windscreen — 177 Bonnet lock — 181 lock control cable — 181 removal and refitting — 181 Boot lid lock and striker — 182 removal and refitting — 181 Boot light switch — 141 Brake bands (automatic transmission) — 101 Brake master cylinder — 119 Brake servo unit description — 120 filter — 121 non-return valve — 121 removal and refitting — 120 Braking system — 117 et seq Braking system

road test — 105

bleeding — 119

selector panel lamp — 140

fault diagnosis — 127

selector rod adjustment — 103 specifications — 69 stall test — 105 starter inhibitor — 103 sump draining and refilling — 103

front brakes — 123, 124 general description — 117

handbrake — 122, 123 hydraulic pipes — 119 pedal — 121 : rear brakes — 125, 126, 12 servo

B

unit — 120, 121

specifications — 117 stoplight switch — 121

Ballast resistor — 60 Balljoints front suspension — 156, 159 steering — 163 Battery — 129

Beam adjustment (headlamp) — 138

Bumpers — 182 Buying spare parts — 8 Bypass pipe (automatic transmission) — 103

C

Big-end bearings examination and renovation — 25 removal — 23

Bodywork and underframe — 169 et seq Bodywork and underframe body damage repair — 171, 172 bonnet — 181 boot lid — 181, 182

Camber (front wheel) — 167 Camshaft examination and renovation — 26 refitting — 31 removal — 23 Carburettors dismantling — 44

sn

inspection — 44 reassembly — 46 removal and refitting — 43 tamperproof carburettors — 47 tuning — 46 Choke cable — 49 Choke switch — 141 Cigarette lighter — 142 Clutch — 62 et seq Clutch bleeding — 62 fault diagnosis — 67 general description — 62 inspection — 65 master cylinder — 64 pedal — 66 release mechanism — 66 removal and refitting — 65 slave cylinder — 62, 63 specifications — 62 Clutch master cylinder dismantling and reassembly — 64 examination — 64 removal and refitting — 64 Clutch pedal and support bracket — 66 Clutch release mechanism — 66 Clutch slave cylinder dismantling and reassembly — 63 examination — 63 removal and refitting — 62

Coil (ignition) — 60 Combination switch — 141 Condenser — 56 Connecting rods reassembly with crankshaft — 28 reassembly with pistons — 28 removal — 23 Contact breaker points adjustment — 56 removal and refitting — 54 Conversion factors — 197 Cooling system — 38 et seq Cooling system antifreeze — 39 draining — 38 fan belt — 42 fan blades — 40 fault diagnosis — 42 filling — 38 flushing — 40 general description — 38 header tank — 39

radiator — 39 specifications — 38 thermostat — 40 water pump — 41

Courtesy (interior) lamp — 140 Crankcase ventilation system — 24 Crankshaft examination and renovation — 24 reassembly with connecting rods — 28 refitting — 28, 33 removal — 24 Cylinder bores — 25 Cylinder head decarbonisation — 27 refitting — 32

removal (engine in car) — 22 removal (engine on bench) — 21

D Dampers front — 154 rear — 161

199

Index Differential assembly — 113 Direction indicators flasher unit — 137

removal and refitting (front) — 139 removal and refitting (rear) — 139 Dimensions, weights and capacities — 5 Distributor dismantling and reassembly — 54 general description — 183 inspection — 54 lubrication — 58 removal and refitting — 35, 53 Distributor drive

refitting — 35 removal — 23 Door dismantling and reassembly front — 173 rear — 177

Door hinges — 172 Door light switch — 140 Door rattles — 172 Door removal and refitting — 172 Door striker plate — 177 Downshift cable (automatic transmission) — 101, 104

E Electrical system — 128 et seq Electrical system accessories — 138 alternator — 130 battery — 129 cigarette lighter — 142 direction indicators — 139 fault diagnosis — 144 flasher unit — 137 front parking lights — 139 fuse box — 142 general description — 129 headlamps — 138 horns — 137 instruments — 142, 186 interior lamp — 140 night dimming relay — 137 number plate lamps — 139

panel lamps (Dolomite) — 140 radio fitment — 138 rear lights — 139

selector panel lamp (automatic transmission) — 140 specifications — 128 speedometer cable — 142, 143 starter motor — 131, 133 switches — 140, 141 voltage stabiliser — 142

warning light cluster (1500TC) — 140 windscreen windscreen

washer system — 136, 137 wipers — 134, 135

wiring diagrams — 146 to 151, 190 Engine — 15 et seq

Engine dismantling — 20 endplate refitting — 33 endplate removal — 23 fault diagnosis — 37 general description — 17 initial start-up after major repair — 36 operations possible with engine in place — 19 operations requiring engine removal — 19 reassembly — 27, 35 refitting — 36 removal — 19 specifications — 15 Exhaust system — 51

200

Index

F Facia panel — 178, Fan belt — 42 Fan blades — 40

189

Gearbox Gearbox

Governor (automatic transmission) — 102 Gudgeon pins refitting — 28

Fan

motor removal and refitting — 179 switch — 180 Fault diagnosis — 192 et seq

removal

Fault diagnosis automatic transmission — 107 braking system — 127 clutch — 67 cooling system

— 42 direction indicator flasher unit — 137 electrical system — 144 engine — 37 flasher unit — 137 fuel system — 52 horns —

137

ignition system — 61 manual transmission — 84 overdrive — 99 propeller shaft — 110 rear axle — 116 suspension and steering — 168 transmission — 84, 107 windscreen wipers — 136 Flasher unit — 137 Flywheel examination

and renovation

— 27

refitting — 33 removal — 23 Flywheel starter ring — 26

Front anti-roll bar (Dolomite) — 158 Front brake calipers — 124, discs — 124 disc shields —

pads —

H Halfshafts — 111 Handbrake adjustment — 123 cable — 123 lever assembly — 122 switch — 141 Header tank (cooling system) — 39 Headlamps beam adjustment — 138 removal and replacement — 138 Heated backlight switch — 141 Heater airflow control cable — 180 fan motor — 179, 180 removal and refitting — 179 water valve — 180 Horns — 137 HT leads — 60 Hub units front bearings — 153, 154 rear assembly — 160 Hydraulic pump non-return valve (overdrive) — 94

124

123

Ignition switch — 140, 167 Ignition system — 53 et seq Ignition system

ballast resistor — 60 coil — 60 contact breaker points — 54, 56 distributor — 53, 54, 58, 183 fault diagnosis — 61 general description — 53 HT leads — 60

Front door

dismantling and reassembly — 173 removal and refitting — 172 Front hub bearings adjustment — 154 removal and refitting — 153 Front parking lights — 139

points — 54, 56 spark plugs — 60 specifications — 53

Front radius rod — 156 Front seat — 178

(automatic transmission) — 101

Front spring and damper — 154 Front suspension balljoints — 156, 159 lower wishbone arms — 156 radius rod — 156 rubber bushes — 156 upper wishbone arms — 156 Front wheel alignment — 167 Fuel and exhaust systems — 43 et seq

Fuel and exhaust systems carburation — 43, 44, 46, 47 exhaust system — 51 fuel system — 50 fault diagnosis — 52 general description — 43 specifications — 43

Fuel gauge (Dolomite Fuel

1500) — 186

pump

filter cleaning — 50 removal and refitting — 50 testing — 50 Fuel tank — 50 Fuse box — 142

— 23

125

Front brake band (automatic transmission) — 101 Front damper — 154

Front servo

see Transmission tunnel cover — 182

timing adjustment — 57 Indicators flasher unit — 137 removal and refitting (front) — 139

removal and refitting (rear) — 139 Instruments — 142, 178, 186 Interior lamp — 140 Intermediate shaft (steering column) — 167

J Jacking — 11

L Light switches door (interior light) — 140 master — 140 Lubricants — 12 Lubrication system — 24 Luggage compartment light switch — 141

Index

M Main bearings (crankshaft) examination and renovation — 25 removal — 24

Master

light switch — 140

N Night dimming relay general — 137 removal and refitting — 137 Number plate lamps — 139

O Oil Oil Oil Oil Oil

filter — 24 pressure checks (overdrive) — 94 pressure relief valve — 24 pressure switch — 141 pump dismantling — 24

examination and renovation — 27 refitting — 33 removal — 24 Overdrive

dismantling and reassembly — 95 fault diagnosis — 99 general description — 92 hydraulic pump non-return valve — 94 hydraulic system — 92 oil pressure checks — 94 overhaul — 95 pressure filter — 95 principle of operation — 92 relief valve and dashpot assembly — 94 removal and refitting — 95 solenoid control valve — 94 specifications — 69

201

overhaul — 162 removal and refitting — 162 Radiator — 39 Radio fitment — 138 Radius rod — 156, 161 Rear axle — 111 et seq Rear axle fault diagnosis — 116 general description — 111 halfshaft bearings — 111 halfshaft oil seals — 111 halfshafts — 111 pinion bearing preload — 184 pinion oil seal — 115 removal and refitting — 115+ specifications — 111 Rear brake backplate — 127 shoes — 125 wheel cylinder — 126

Rear brake band (automatic transmission) — 101 Rear damper — 161 Rear door dismantling and reassembly — 177 removal and refitting — 172 Rear hub assembly — 160 Rear lights — 139 Rear radius rod — 161 Rear seat — 178 Rear servo (automatic transmission) — 101 Rear suspension arm — 161 Rear wheel alignment — 167 Relays

night dimming

relay — 137

Relief valve and dashpot assembly (overdrive) — 94 Restrictor valve (automatic transmission) — 103 Reversing lights removal and refitting — 139 switch (automatic transmission) — 103

switch (single rail gearbox) — 141 switch (three rail gearbox) — 140 Rocker assembly adjustment — 33

dismantling — 22

P

Panel lamps (Dolomite) — 140 Parcel

shelf — 179,

189

Parking lights — 139 Pinion oil seal (rear axle) — 115 Piston rings examination and renovation — 25 refitting — 28 removal — 23 Pistons

examination and renovation — 25 reassembly with connecting rods — 28 refitting — 28 removal — 23 Points adjustment — 56

removal

and refitting — 54

Pressure filter (overdrive) — 95 Propeller shaft — 108 et seq Propeller shaft centre bearing — 14 fault diagnosis — 110

general description — 108, 184 removal and refitting — 108 specifications — 108

universal joints and splines — 109

R Rack-and-pinion

steering gear

dismantling and reassembly — 162

examination and renovation — 26 reassembly — 31 Routine maintenance — 9

S Safety first! — 196 Seats — 178 Selector panel lamp (automatic transmission)

Selector rod (automatic transmission) — 103 Servo (automatic transmission) — 101 Servo (braking system) — 120 Sidelights — 139 Single rail gearbox dismantling — 85 examination and renovation — 85 fault diagnosis — 92 general description — 84 input shaft — 87 mainshaft — 87 reassembly — 89 removal and refitting — 85

reversing light switch — 141 specifications — 69 Solenoid control valve (overdrive) — 94 Spark plugs — 60 Specifications braking system — 117 clutch — 62 cooling system — 38 electrical system — 128

— 140

Index 202 a top cover — 82 Throttle cable — 48 Throttle linkage — 49 Throttle pedal — 48 Timing chain tensioner examination and renovation — 26 removal and refitting — 24 Timing cover, gears and chain examination and renovation — 26 refitting — 31 removal — 22 Timing (ignition) — 56 Transmission automatic — 99

engine — 15 fuel and exhaust systems — 43 ignition system — 53 propeller shaft --108,

183

rear axle — 111, 183 suspension and steering — 152 transmission — 68 Speedometer cable (complete) — 142, 178, 186 cable (inner) — 143, 178, 186 removal and refitting — 142, 186 Starter motor dismantling and reassembly — 131 general description — 131 overhaul — 131 removal and refitting — 131 roller clutch — 133 testing on engine — 133 Starter motor roller clutch — 133 Starter switch — 140 Steering column switch — 141 Steering see Suspension and steering Stop lights removal and refitting — 139 switch (brake pedal) — 121 Striker plate (door) — 177 Sump (automatic transmission) — 103

Sump

overdrive

— 92

single rail gearbox — 84 three rail gearbox — 70 Tunnel cover (transmission) — 182

U Underframe

see Bodywork

and underframe

Universal joints (propeller shaft) dismantling and bearing renewal — 109 inspection and repair — 109

(engine)

examination and renovation — 27 refitting — 35 removal — 23 Suspension and steering — 152 et seq Suspension and steering

V Valve guides examination and renovation — 27 removal — 22 Valves clearance adjustment — 33 examination and renovation — 26 refitting — 31 removal — 22 Valve seats — 26 Vehicle identification numbers — 8.

anti-roll bar (Dolomite) — 158 fault diagnosis — 168 front damper — 154 front hub bearings — 153, 154 front radius rod — 156 front spring — 154 front suspension — 154, 156, 159 general description — 153 radius rod — 156, 161 rear damper — 161 rear hub assembly — 160 rear radius rod — 161 rear suspension arm — 161 specifications — 152 steering column — 141, 165, 166, steering gear — 162, 163

Vertical link balljoints (front suspension) lower — 159 upper — 159 Voltage stabiliser — 142

167

steering wheel — 162 wheel alignment — 167 Switches — 121, 140, 141

T Tail lights — 139 Tamperproof carburettors — 47 Tappets — 26 Temperature gauge (Dolomite 1500) — 186 Thermostat — 40 Three rail gearbox cover extension — 80 dismantling — 71 examination and renovation — 76 fault diagnosis — 84

general description — 70 input shaft — 76 mainshaft — 73 reassembly — 78 rear extension — 84 rear oil seal — 84 removal and refitting — 70

reversing light switch — 140 specifications — 68

Ww Warning light cluster (1500TC) — 140 Washer system — 136, 137, 141 Water pump — 41 Water valve (heater) — 180 Windscreen — 177 Windscreen washers dismantling and reassembly — 136 general — 136 switch — 141 washer jets —137 washer pump — 137 washer reservoir — 137 Windscreen wipers dismantling and reassembly — 134 fault finding — 136 general description — 134 overhaul — 134

removal and refitting — 134 switch — 141 wiper arm — 134 wiper blades — 134 wiper linkage — 135 wiper motor — 134 Wiper system — 134, 135, 141

Wiring diagrams — 146 to 151, 190

Wishbone arms (front) — 156

—

:

¢

Printed by Haynes Publishing Group Sparkford Yeovil Somerset England

Models covered by this manual Triumph Triumph

1500TC Saloon, 1493 cc Dolomite 1500 & 1500HL Saloon,

1493 cc EDUCATIONAL DIVISION APPROVED AND RECOMME!

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The clear, step-by-step illustrated instructions cover the dismantling, inspection, repair and refitting of the engine, cooling system, fuel and |

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only are covered. ONLY

HAYNES

COMPLETELY STRIP AND EACH MANUAL

‘These are really worthwhile manuals which can save you a lot of money.” Autocar

| |

emission control systems, exhaust, ignition system, clutch, manual gearbox, propeller shaft or drive shafts, braking system, electrical system, suspension, steering, bodywork and fittings. Routine maintenance, complete specifications and detailed fault diagnosis procedures are also included. For rear axle differential units and automatic transmissions (where applicable) the removal, refitting and fault diagnosis procedures

‘Haynes manuals are

outstanding for giving the learner mechanic an easy to foliow guide to doing most any type of repair or maintenance work on his

rhea REBUILD THE CAR FOR

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or her car.’ Road & Track,

‘These authentic manuals are actually written from

ia

practical experience ...’ Car Mechanics

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Whether you just want to change your oil or replace your plugs, or change your clutch or rebuild your gearbox, the Haynes manual will show you how, and can help you save pounds on servicing and repair bills.

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‘Excellent value for money, beginners and experts should find it equally useful, overall a mine of information’ Motor

‘It is thus opportune that a _ simply splendid Owners y

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A Haynes manual can help you stretch your motoring budget that little bit further in other ways too. Regular maintenance and servicing will mean your Car is safer to drive whilst giving you more of those precious mpg. What's more, a car that is well looked after will

hold its price better and last a lot longer!

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Workshop Manual has just come out. Every imaginable job is

illustrated ... Autosport

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_ISBN O 85696 841 2

Operations in pictures. Sunday Mirror .

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