Haynes Triumph 1500 TC & Dolomite 1500 Owners Workshop Manual 0856963690, 9780856963698

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Triumph 00TC

& Dolomite1500— Owners

Manual byJH Hayr~*

Member of the Guild

* .ers

and Alec

cS

BSc Eng, C Eng \

Models cove.

Triumph 1500TC. 1493 cc Dolomite 1500 and 1500OHL. 1493 cc

|

Covers overdrive, manual and automatic transmission

ISBN

©

O 85696

369

O

Haynes Publishing Group 1978

2292/60

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

Printed in England

/s. » PUBLISHING GROUP --& 3D YEOVIL SOMERSET ENGLAND ie vi IEV

i BL / ‘JINS INC IMENCE O-1VE AY PP OK

Acknowledgements Thanks are due to British Leyland UK Limited for the supply of technical information and certain illustrations, and the Champion Sparking Plug Company who supplied the illustrations showing the various spark plug conditions. The bodywork repair photographs used in this manual were provided by Lloyds Industries who supply Turtle Wax’, ‘Dupli-Color Holts’, and other Holts range products. We acknowledge with gratitude the help received from Tice and

Son (Wimborne) Ltd., and in particular Mr S P White. Lastly, special thanks are due to all those people at Sparkford who assisted in the production of this manual. Particularly, Brian Horsfall and Leon Martindale who carried cut the mechanical work and took the photographs respectively; Pete Ward who edited the text and Stanley Randolph who planned the layout of each page.

About this manual [ts aims

numbered

The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your car. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done*by a garage), provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a

sections), with decimal numbers following on from the Section they

Sections, eg. 5; and the Sections into paragraphs (or Sub-

are in, (eg. 5.1, 5.2, 5.3 etc).

garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads.

It is freely illustrated, especially in those parts where there is a detailed sequence of operations to be carried out. There are two forms of illustration: figures and photographs. The figures are numbered in sequence with decimal numbers, according to their position in the Chapter: eg. Fig. 6.4 is the 4th drawing/illustration in Chapter 6. Photographs are numbered (either individually or in related groups) the same as the Section or Sub-section of the text where the operation they show is described.

The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Thén

a contents list at the front.

the tasks are described and photographed in a step-by-step sequence so that even a novice can do the work.

References to the ‘left’ or ‘right’ of the vehicle are in the sense of a person in a seat facing forwards.

logical course

of action

and diagnosis

when

random

faults occur.

However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the werk

yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage, and going there twice to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs the

/ts arrangement The manual is divided into twelve Chapters, each covering a logical sub-division of the vehicle. The Chapters are each divided into

There is an alphabetical index at the back of the manual! as well as

Whilst manual is publishers omissions

every care is taken to ensure that the information in this correct no liability can be accepted by the authors or for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or from, the information given.

Chapter

Sections

Introductory sections

Buying spare parts Routine maintenance

1 Engine

Removal Renovation

2 Cooling system

3 Fuel and exhaust systems

Page 8 9

Section Lubrication chart Tools and working facilities

Page \\2 13

19 Reassembly 24 ~~ Refitting

ALT] 36

Draining/fiiling

38

Flushing

40

Antifreeze Radiator

39 39

Thermostat ~Fan belt

40 42

Air cleaner

43

Fuel pump

50

43

Fuel tank

50

Throttle

48

Exhaust system

51

4 Ignition system

Distributor Contact breaker points

53 54

Ignition timing Spark plugs

57 60

5 Clutch

Bleeding Slave cylinder Master cylinder

62 62

65 66

64

Removal and refitting Release mechanism Pedal and support bracket

92 99

Carburettors

bs

;

66

6 Gearbox, overdrive and automatic transmission

Three rail gearbox Single rail gearbox

70. 84

~=Overdrive Automatic transmission

7 Propeller shaft

Propeller shaft

84

Universal joints

“99

8 Rear axle

Halfshafts Differential assembly

111. 113.

Pinion oil seal Removal and refitting

115 aS

9 Braking system

Bleeding

119

Handbrake

122

Master cylinder Servo unit

119 120.

Front brake Rear brake

123 WAS)

Battery Alternator Starter motor

129 130 431 134

Lights Switches Instruments

Wiring diagrams

138 140 142 145

153 160

Steering gear Wheel alignment

162 167

169 WA 172

Heater Bonnet Boot

WAS, 181 181

178

Bumpers

182

10 Electrical system

;

Windscreen wipers 11 Suspension and steering

12 Bodywork and underframe

Front suspension Rear suspension

:

Maintenance Damage repair Doors Seats

!n addition each Chapter contains, where applicable, Specifications,

;

General description and Fault diagnosis

Metric conversion tables

183

Index

185

Use of English As this book has been written in England, it uses the appropriate English component names, phrases, and spelling. Some of these differ from those used in America. Normally, these cause no difficulty, but to make sure, a glossary is printed below. In ordering spare parts remember the parts list will probably use these words:

Glossary American

English

American

English

-

i>

a

ea Accelerator

Gas pedal

Generator (AC)

Leading shoe (of brake) Locks

Primary shoe

Alternator

Stabiliser or sway bar Energizer

Motorway Number plate

Freeway, turnpike etc. Licence plate

Hood Trunk lid

Paraffin Petrol

Kerosene Gasoline

Boot (luggage compartment)

Trunk

Petrol tank

Gas tank

Bottom gear

1st gear

‘Pinking’

‘Pinging’

Bulkhead a Camfollower or tappet

Firewall Valve lifter or tappet

Propellor shaft Quarter light

Driveshaft Quarter window

Carburettor

Carburetor

Retread

Recap

Catch

Latch

Reverse

Back-up

Choke/venturi

Barrel

Rocker cover

Valve cover

Car-top carrier

Anti-roll bar Battery

we at

Bonnet (engine cover Boot lid fr

a

Latches

Circlip

Snap ring

Roof rack

Clearance

Lash

Saloon

Crownwheel

Ring gear (of differential)

Seized

Disc (brake)

Rotor/disk

Side indicator lights

Drop arm Drop head coupe

Pitman arm Convertible

Side light Silencer

Dynamo Earth (etectrical)

Generator (DC) Ground

Wrench Rocker panel

Engineer's blue Estate car

Prussion blue Station wagon

Spanner seg Sill panel (beneath doors) Split cotter (for valve spring cap) Split pin

Cotter pin

Exhaust manifold

Header

Steering arm

Spindle arm

Fast back (Coupe)

Hard top

Sump

Oil pan

Fault finding/diagnosis Float chamber

Trouble shooting Float bowl

Tab washer Tailgate

Tang; lock Liftgate

Free-play

Lash

Tappet

Valve lifter

Freewheel

Coast

Thrust bearing

Gudgeon pin

Piston pin or wrist pin

Top gear

Gearchange Gearbox

Shift Transmission

Trackrod (of steering Trailing shoe (of brake)

Tie-rod (or connecting rod) Secondary shoe

Halfshaft

Axle-shaft

Transmission

Whole drive line

Handbrake

Parking brake

Tyre

Hood

Soft top

Van

Panel wagon/van

Hot spot Indicator

Heat riser Turn signat

Vice Wheel nut

Vise Lug nut

Interior light Layshaft (of gearbox)

Dome lamp Counter shaft

Windscreen Wing/mudguard

Windshield Fender

Sedan ae

Frozen

Side marker lights 3

Parking light Muffler

=

Lock (for valve spring retainer)

Throw-out bearing a

“i

High

Tire

Cen a ease

Selena

Sbesentaeiansaremert

Miscellaneous points EE

SSeS

An “Oil seal’’ is fitted to components lubricated by grease! A “Damper” is a “Shock absorber’ it damps out bouncing, and absorbs shocks of bump impact. Both names are correct, and both are used haphazardly. Note that British drum brakes are different from the Bendix type that is common in America, so different descriptive names result The shoe end furthest from the hydraulic wheel cylinder is on a pivot; interconnection between the shoes as on Bendix brakes is most

uncommon.

Therefore the phrase “Primary” or ‘‘Secondary”’ shoe does not apply. A shoe is said to be Leading or Trailing. A “Leading”

shoe is one on which a point on the drum, as it rotates forward, reaches the shoe at the end worked by the hydraulic cylinder before the

anchor end. The opposite is a trailing shoe, and this one has no self servo from the wrapping effect of the rotating drum.

Introduction to the Triumph 1500 TC and the Dolomite 1500 and 1500 HL ee

ee

ee

The Triumph 1500 TC was introduced in October of 1973 with a conventional rear wheel drive to replace the earlier front wheel drive models. It was superseded in March 1976 by the Dolomite 1500 which was basically the same, but had the addition of a front torsion

bar. The 1500 HL is a more luxurious version of the Dolomite 1500. All models have the same basic body styling, and use engines and

gearboxes which have been used on other Leyland models.

General dimensions, weights and capacities 1500 TC BRONICME

ee, cc ee

LUPNING CICIG:

ear

Pea

ocr

IL

ks

ie

Cverall dimensions LISTHTC)1)PaaS Saou OMCe eehe One ICE Pian cose toes ke tere Ae en

ERE

rata

Ses A

oat

chou Pet chee

accheae Ae

ohca ene Wane Sleate

A

e

e

e ike

Nne, ck

ey Ge nee Olas a ieee cee eer eee Techn ect Vite I AR Cn Mesa

Weights (approx) Diy exiextrarcQuipmelt) meky oemera cern aid oe oeiioiansi a uae i chawa ean o.6 Basic kerb (inc. tools, fuel, oil and water) .............0000 eves Grossi veniclewwelgntiitax) mee aeteccei trance cee ccats sen toivgy aethiie icons Interior dimensions (seats empty) Front VViclthi— lOO GOON mmr eae ciee rene) eyarees. os ecient crsgegnl ea cco)2 edhe Seat widths mecnees sei ee ceceae, cadens melas BiGaNa tic nie lus

Seatheight (floortoicuishion) ia:

+ ecco. 2 cle oot eoeecniens

mc

eae

‘Dolomite 1500

8 fi OF in (2454 mm)

8 ft 02 in (2454 mm)

4 ft 5 in (1346 mm)

4 ft 54 in (1352 mm)

4 ft 2 in (1270 mm)

4 ft 2 in (1270 mm)

30 ft 6 in (9.3 m)

30 ft 6 in (9.3 m)

13 ft 6 in (4110 mm) 5ft 12 in (1568 mm) 4 ft6 in (1372 mm)

5 ft 24 in (1588 mm) 4 ft 6 in (1372 mm)

1960 Ib (888 kg) 2072 Ib (937 kg) 2884 Ib (1314 kg)

2006 Ib (910 kg) 2116 |b (960 kg) 2954 |b (1340 kg)

49.25 in (1251 mm)

49.25 23 in 12 in 19 in

23 in (584 mm)

12 in (305 mm) 19 in (483 mm)

13 ft 64 in (4122 mm)

in (1251 mm) (584 mm) (305 mm) (483 mm)

Seat depth: Bere sete ee se Foss Mw soate . Suereimrescaens Eats Headroom fronmiseavcushiOM) mest. cet 5 misesic tay eso niteloner asics nl aMells fe Squab to clutch pecdalnrax) cases cieiew ae ericson trometotr, lteter os larelles Steering wheel clearance from seat squab (max) .............0055 UPILA) Seka Cache tones eehrRO Rene

36 in (914 mm) 38 in (965 mm) 19 in (483 mm) 9 in (229 mm)

38 in (965 mm)

Steering wheel clearance from seat cushion (nominal)

4.63 in (118 mm)

6.50 in (165 mm)

46 in (1170 mm)

46 in (1170 mm) 14 in (356 mm)

Rear Reatrseat cirective WiGtil menue

.............

lias cws kere iincttcaic Dha

eerakssacetoie & o

Reariseat height— floor tO CUSMION as cerns mie i die ales lasso eet temins Rearseat deptinee nec temsritr chery aie neniae eofeuaselcun isis etersum ciliohiateo =)2 Rear headroom idroniseaticushiOm) meres cic eeie mitts: oll) sive bale elshat Rearsquab to back of frommseauinax}mesn stelts) sialon eie cables sce er , LIVI) ere ea Oe ak ee end tee

14 19 36 32 26

in in in in in

(356 (483 (914 (813 (661

mm) mm) mm) mm) mm)

38.5 in (978 mm) 19 in (483 mm) 10 in (254 mm)

19 in (483 mm)

36 in (914 mm) 32 in (813 mm) 26 in (661 mm)

Luggage compartment

Be potin,(aX) mereesnee sparse Pisce dhe eoshencsipsz ceavicyorte ac cone] Nun e Doniee Oa a

37 in (939 mm)

Viticl tibetWweenlWiheelranChOS)

39.50 in (1003 mm)

ontuwelelosshete 5cyl oie acoue race listen dele, pes: (oe

37 in (939 mm) 40 in (1016 mm)

Capacities RGtiGlitan meee entre eee ay actin cee geno chers sree urseyoain le Mies Ae TOUT OFso earetes Paco Uo coubroso p Ore o-o,01E OU 0 oromct OIDs Coma ucmennnc CEA ore= eOelnye tfc ase Ro ee 6 WR Oke Oo GO pete Sloat o orcnano weaNONOeG

12.5 gallons (57 litres)

12.5 gallons (57 litres)

7.50 pints (4.25 litres)

7.50 pints (4.25 litres)

1.375 pints (0.75 litres)

GEATOXTanG OVElGhiVelmen am cious aires etait acres cers a loan iite wens is a,0.ayn Retr ada =hennGhny suche de oe ee Ob 64 OD o Sid come Sune cet olnorae Coolingisystemwithiheater 2% j.e 58s eee weet hte ee ewe ee

2.9 pints (1.65 litres) 1.5 pints (0.85 litres) 8.5 pints (4.8 litres)

1.375 pints (0.75 litres) 2.9 pints (1.65 litres)

Maximumitowing weight

9

2p

ee

ets

eee

eee

1680 Ib (762 kg)

1.5 pints (0.85 litres) 9.5 pints (5.4 litres)

1680 |b (762 kg)

yduinuy00S)91

O0G1 auWwojog yduinuy

Buying spare parts and vehicle identification numbers Buying spare parts Spare parts are available from many sources, for example: Leyland garages, other garages and accessory shops, and motor factors. Our advice regarding spare part sources is as follows: Officially appointed Leyland garages: This is the best source of parts which are peculiar to your car and otherwise not generally available (eg. complete cylinder heads, internal gearbox components, badges, interior trim etc). It is also the only place at which you should buy parts if your car is still under warranty as non-Leyland components may invalidate the warranty. To be sure of obtaining the correct parts it will always be necessary to give the storeman your car's engine and chassis number, and if possible, to take the ‘old’ part along for positive identification. Remember that many parts are available on a factory exchange scheme — any parts returned should always be clean! It obviously makes good sense to go straight to the specialists on your car for this type of part for they are best equipped to supply you. Other garages aid accessory shops: These are often very good places to buy material and components needed for the maintenance of

affixed to the top of the left-hand front wing valance. The Engine number is stamped on a flange on the left-hand side of the cylinder block. The Gearbox number is stamped on the top right-hand face of the

gearbox casing. The Rear Axle number is stamped on the bottom flange of the axle casing.

Paint and Trim numbers are included on the Commission

When obtaining new parts, remember that many assemblies can be exchanged. This is very much cheaper than buying them outright and throwing the old part away.

your car (eg. oil filters, spark plugs, bulbs, fan belts, oils and greases, touch-up paint, filler paste etc). They also sell general accessories, usually have convenient opening hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home. Motor factors: Good factors will stock all of the more important components which wear out relatively quickly (eg. clutch components,

pistons,

valves,

exhaust

systems,

brake

cylinders/pipes/-

hoses/seals/shoes and pads, etc). Motor factors will often provide new or reconditioned components on a part exchange basis — this can save a considerable amount of money.

(J PAINT a

GROSS LADEN WEK ry MINIMUM KERB Gn | MANUFACTURED “BRITIS HOLL

Vehicle identification numbers When ordering new parts it is essential to give full details of your car to the storeman. He will want to know the car model and details found on the engine identification plate, and the chassis type. Year of manufacture is necessary too. If at all possible take along the part to be renewed. If you want to re-touch the paintwork you can obtain an exact match (providing the original paint has not faded) by quoting the paint colour in conjunction with the model details. The Commission number (Chassis number) is stamped on a plate

number

plate.

The commission number plate

Routine

maintenance

Routine maintenance is essential for ensuring safety, and desirable for the purpose of getting the best in terms of performance and economy from any vehicle. In many instances, the largest element of maintenance is visual examination and a general sense of awareness. This may lead to repairs or renewals, but should help to avoid roadside breakdowns. The maintenance summary is basically that recommended by the vehicle manufacturer, but in certain instances has been altered by the author where additional or more frequent checks are thought to be advisable.

necessary a proprietary brand of cleaning fluid may be added. 4 When the tyres are cold (ie. before a run) check their pressures, not forgetting the spare. The correct pressures are given in Chapter 11. 5 When the engine is cool, check the level of the coolant. Top-up if necessary

using

rain

water

if possible;

alternatively

cooled

boiled

water.

6 Check the level of the fluid in the clutch and brake master cylinder reservoirs. If necessary top-up with fluid of the correct specification (photos). Note: /f the /eve/ has fallen drastically, refer to paragraphs 9

and 10. 7 Check the operation of all the lights, warning instruments, windscreen washer, windscreen wipers, direction indicators, hazard

Weekly or before a long journey

warning indicators, heated rear window, horns and luggage boot light.

1 With the car standing on level ground, check the oil level. Top-up, if necessary, using a high quality multigrade engine oil. Do not overfill

Every 3000 miles (5000 km) or three months

but always maintain the level at, or near, the full mark (photo). 2 Check the level of the battery electrolyte and top-up if necessary with distilled water. 3 Top-up the windscreen washer reservoir with clean water. lf

8 Check the condition of the fan belt and renew if frayed or at the limit of its adjustment. The procedure for fan belt adjustment and renewal is given in Chapter 10 (photo).

Topping-up the engine oil

Brake master cylinder reservoir

Clutch master cylinder reservoir

Checking fan belt adjustment

10

Routine maintenance

i

9 Check for any leakage of oil, fuel and/or hydraulic fluid. This is best done by giving the car a warming up run, then leaving overnight and checking for any drips beneath. Remove the brake drums and also check around the calipers for any signs of brake fluid leakage. If any is present here, refer to Chapter 9 for information about renewing the rubber seals. 10 Inspect all rigid and flexible pipes in the hydraulic and fuel systems for corrosion, chafing and generai deterioration. Renew parts as necessary. 11 Check the exhaust system for security of fixing and any signs of gasket leakage or blow-holes in the silencer or pipes. 12 Check the condition of the gaiters on the steering rack, and the steering and suspension balljoints, for deterioration. Also check all the balljoints for wear, making reference to Chapter 11 as necessary. 13 Check the brake discs for scoring and the pads for wear. Renew pads which have worn down to 1/16 in (1.6 mm) or which are likely to have worn down to this thickness before the next 3000 mile check. 14 Check the tightness of the road wheel nuts. 15 Check the condition of the tyres, renewing any that have worn down to the statutory limit of 1 mm of tread. Radial ply tyres are fitted as standard equipment and replacements of the same type are recommended. If excessive tyre wear is occurring, consult a Leyland dealer since it may be necessary to carry out a suspension alignment check. 16 Arrange for a headlamp alignment check to be carried out. Although the beams can be readily reset (see Chapter 10) the only really reliable method is to use the proper alignment equipment at a garage. 17 Check the condition of the wiper blades and renew them if they do not give a satisfactory wiping action over the whole range of travel. 18 Check that there is no undue free travel of the brake pedal and handbrake lever. If this is found, adjust the handbrake cable and check the operation of the automatic adjusters on the rear brakes. Refer to Chapter 9 for further information. 19 Check the condition of the seat belts and the security of the attachment points. If any fraying of the webbing is found, the belts should be renewed, since your life may depend on them. If any corrosion around the attachment points is evident, seek the advice of a Leyland dealer without delay. 20 Check the condition of the interior and exterior rear view mirrors both for security of attachment and damage to the glass. 21 Road test the car to check for general performance, satisfactory operation of the brakes and steering, and for general rattles and knocks.

Every 6000 miles (10000 km) or 6 months 22 Apply a few drops of engine oil or light lubricating oil to the pivot points of the brake, clutch and accelerator pedals. 23 Apply a few drops of engine oil or light lubricating oil to the locks,

Sump drain plug

door, boot and bonnet hinges, lock strikers and seat adjusters. 24

Top-up

the

carburettor

piston

dampers

using

engine

oil (see

Chapter 3). 25 Give the car a warming up run, then wipe around the sump drain plug. Remove the plug and drain the oil into a container of at least 8 pints (5 litres) capacity. When all the oil has drained, clean the drain plug then refit it but do not replenish the system until the requirements of paragraph 26 has been carried out (photo).

26 Unscrew the oil filter element, catching any oil spillage in a suitable container. Clean the filter housing, fit a new element and refit to the car. Top-up the system with a high quality multigrade engine oil and run the engine at a fast idle until the oil pressure warning light extinguishes. Note:

Your car manufacturer recommends

more

frequent oil and oil

tilter changes when the foilowing adverse motoring conditions apply:

a) Stop/Start motoring with prolonged engine idling. b) Regular short journey use. c) Frequent cold weather starting.

27 Clean the distributor contact points as described in Chapter 4. Apply two or three drops of engine oil to the lubrication points and contact pivot, and smear a little general purpose grease over the cam profile. 28 Check the ignition timing and adjust if necessary as described in Chapter 4. 29 Clean the spark plugs, and inspect the electrodes and insulators for deterioration. 30 Remove the air cleaner elements. Using a stiff paint brush, clean any dust and dirt deposits from the elements and their housing. 31 Check the carburettor mixture and idle settings, and balance the carburettors if necessary. The procedure is given in Chapter 3. Note the special instructions for tamperproof carburettors. 32 Apply a few drops of erigine oil or light lubricating oil to the linkage and pivot points of the carburettors. 33 Check the battery terminals for security and corrosion. Clean off any corrosion deposits and smear the terminals with petroleum jelly

(Vaseline). 34

Carefully examine

all the hoses

in the cooling system

for leaks,

renewing any hoses which are either leaking or are showing any signs of cracking and/or crazing. Check the radiator and water pump for leakage also.

35 Check the oil level in the gearbox and top-up if necessary using SAE 90 EP hypoid gear oil (photo). Where automatic transmission is fitted, first drive the car for about five miles (8 km) then apply the handbrake and leave the engine running, with ‘P’ selected, for about two minutes. With the engine still running, remove the dipstick, wipe it clean then re-insert it and check the level. Add type F automatic transmission fluid to bring the level to the ‘High’ mark on the dipstick. On completion, switch the engine off then remove any dirt, etc from

Manual gearbox filler and drain plugs (arrowed)

Routine maintenance

Steering rack grease nipple

the cooling apertures beneath 36 Check the rear axle oil filler/level plug then removing hypoid gear oil. 37 Remove the blanking p!ug

11

Handbrake clevis pins

the unit. level after first cleaning around the it. Top-up if necessary using SAE 90 EP on the suspension top balljoint and fit a

grease nipple. Apply three or four strokes of a grease gun charged with

general purpose grease. 38 Apply five strokes of the grease gun to the nipple on the base of the steering rack assembly (photo). 39 Remove the blanking plug on the propeller shaft, fit a grease nipple then apply about five strokes from the grease gun. 40 Smear a little general purpose grease around the handbrake compensator and clevis pins (photo), around the brake drum clevis pins, and around the exposed ends of the inner cable. 41 Road test the car as described in paragraph 21.

44 Remove the engine oil filter cap, wash thoroughly in petrol using a stiff paintbrush then shake off the surplus petrol. Wipe clean with a lint-free rag then refit it on the engine. 45 Renew the elements in the carburettor air cleaners. 46 Check the tightness of all the nuts and bolts securing the suspension, subframe, steering unit, shock absorbers, propeller shaft couplings and rear axle. 47 With the handbrake on and the car firmly supported on axle stands, remove the front wheel, hub dust cap and split pin. Carefully tighten the castellated nut whilst turning the wheel until resistance is felt. Slacken the nut half a flat (ie. 30°) then fit a new split pin. Refit the dust cap and roadwheel, then lower the car to the ground. 48 Remove the rear brake drums and inspect the linings for wear. Renew any linings that have worn down to the rivet heads, or will have worn down by the next 12000 mile check. The procedure is given in Chapter 9. 49 Road test the car as described in paragraph 21.

Every 12000 miles (20000 km) or 12 months 42 Remove the top cover of the fuel pump and clean any sediment from the filter and sediment bowl. On completion, fit the cap then run the engine to check that there are no fuel leaks. 43 Fit new spark plugs of the recommended type. See Chapter 4 for further informatien.

Every 36000 miles (60000 km) or 3 years 50 Renew the air filter in the brake servo. 51 Renew all the rubber seals, flexible pipes and brake fluid in the braking system.

Jacking and towing For normal wheel changing, the jack supplied with the car should be used. There are two jacking points on each side of the car, one at each end of the sill panel. When using this method of jacking, always chock one of the wheels remaining on the ground and apply the car handbrake. When working beneath the car, never rely solely upon the car jack, but use a trolley-type jack, axle-stands or concrete blocks for additional support. The vehicle weight may be taken beneath the front subframe, beneath the rear axle-tube or at the jacking points on the sill

panels. Wherever possible avoid possible damage.

use a wooden

If the car is used for emergency tow-rope may be attached front subframe. Models with recovery purposes provided oil level is correct and the

block on the jack-head to

towing, or needs to be towed, a

around the rear axle-tube or around the automatic transmission may be towed for that the transmission is undamaged, the selector is at N. Do not exceed a towing

distance of 20 miles (32 km) or a towing speed of 30mph (48 km/h).

Lubrication chart

1

Radiator

8

2 3

Engine oil Steering rack-and-pinion

9 Handbrake linkage and cable 10 Locks, hinges and catches

4 5 6 7

Carburettors Brake and clutch reservoirs Pedal pivots Gearbox/automatic transmission

171 Distributor 12 Battery terminals 73 Oil filter element

Recommended Component

Rear axle

lubricants and fluids Type of lubricant or fluid

Correct Castrol Products

Engine

20W/50 multigrade engine

Castrol GTX

Carburettor piston dampers Gearbox and overdrive Rear axle All chassis, steering and suspension greasing points

As for the engine 90 EP hypoid extreme pressure gear oil As for the gearbox Multi-purpose high melting point lithium based grease

Castrol Castrol Castrol Castrol

Clutch and brake system reservoirs

Brake and clutch fluid

Castrol Fiuid

Approved antifreeze solution Automatic transmission

Ethylene glycol type Automatic transmission fluid

Castrol Antifreeze Castrol TOF

GTX Hypoy Hypoy LM Grease

Girling

eee er

In addition, Castrol Everyman Oil can be used to lubricate all hinges, locks, pivots, etc ere eee

Universal

Brake

and

Clutch :

Tools and working facilities Introduction

Repair and overhaul tool kit

A selection of good tools is a fundamental requirement for anyone contemplating the maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle. For the owner who does not possess any, their purchase will prove a considerable expense, offsetting some of the savings made by doing-ityourself. However, provided that the tools purchased are of good quality, they will last for many years and prove an extremely worthwhile investment. To help the average owner to decide which tools are needed to carry Out the various tasks detailed in this manual, we have compiled

These tools are virtually essential for anyone undertaking any major repairs to a motor vehicle, and are additional to those given in the Maintenance and minor repair \ist. Included in this list is a comprehensive set of sockets. Although these are expensive they will be found invaluable as they are so versatile - particularly if various drives are included in the set. We recommend the 3 in square-drive type, as this can be used with most proprietary torque wrenches. If you cannot afford a socket set, even bought piecemeal, then inexpensive tubular box spanners are a useful alternative. The tools in this list will occasionally need to be supplemented by tools from the Spec/a/ list.

three

lists of tools under

the following headings: Maintenance

minor repair, Repair and overhaul, practical mechanics should start off repair tool kit and confine himself vehicle. Then, as his confidence

and

and Special. The newcomer to with the Maintenance and minor to the simpler jobs around the and experience grows, he can

undertake more difficult tasks, buying extra tools as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a Maintenance and minor repair tool kit can be built-up into a Repair and overhaul tool kit over a considerable period of time without any major cash outlays. The experienced do-ityourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for most repairs and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the Specia/ category when he feels the expense is justified by the amount of use these tools will be

put to. It is obviously not possible to cover the subject of tools fully here. For those who wish to learn more about tools and their use there is a book entitled How to Choose and Use Car Tools available from the publishers of this manual.

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit The tools given in this list should be considered as a minimum requirement if routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair operations are to be undertaken. We recommend the purchase of combination spanners (ring one end, open-ended the other); although more expensive than open-ended ones, they do give the advantages of both types of spanner.

Combination spanners - %, 4, % 2, + j, B inAF Adjustable spanner - 9 inch

Sockets (or box spanners) to cover range in previous list Socket for crankshaft pulley nut (1 in x 16 TPI bolt)

Socket for steering wheel nut (jin Whitworth) Reversible ratchet drive (for use with sockets) Extension piece, 10 inch (for use with sockets)

Universal joint (for use with sockets) Torque wrench (for use with sockets) ‘Mole’ wrench - 8 inch Ball pein hammer Soft-faced hammer, plastic or rubber

Screwdriver - 6 in long x % in dia (flat blade) Screwdriver - 2 in long x 2 in square (flat blade)

Screwdriver - 14 in long x 4 in dia (cross blade) Screwdriver - 3 in long x } in dia (electricians) Pliers - electricians side cutters Pliers - needle nosed Pliers - circlip (internal and external)

Cold chisel - 3 inch Scriber Scraper Centre punch Pin punch Hacksaw

Engine sump/gearbox/rear axle drain plug key (where applicable)

Valve grinding tool

Spark plug spanner (with rubber insert) Spark plug gap adjustment too! Set of feeler gauges Brake bleed nipple spanner

Steel rule/straight-edge Allen keys Selection of files

Screwdriver - 4 in long x } in dia (flat blade) Screwdriver - 4 in long x 4 in dia (cross blade)

Axle stands Jack (strong scissor or hydraulic type)

Combination pliers - 6 inch Hacksaw, junior Tyre pump Tyre pressure gauge Grease gun

Oil can Fine emery cloth (1 sheet)

Wire brush (small) Funnel (medium size)

Wire brush (large)

Special tools The tools in this list are those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturers’ instructions. Unless relatively difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken frequently, it will not be economic to buy many of these tools. Where this is the case, you could consider clubbing

14 Tools and working facilities hte eles Ese es together with friends (or a motorists’ club) to make a joint purchase, or borrowing the tools against a deposit from a local garage or tool hire specialist. The following list contains only those tools and instruments freely available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealer network. You will find occasional references to these manufacturers’ special tools in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the vehicle manufacturers’ special tool is given. However, sometimes, there is no alternative to using them. Where this is the case and the relevant tool cannot be bought or borrowed you will have to entrust the work to a franchised garage Valve spring compressor

Piston ring compressor Balljoint separator

Universal hub/bearing puller /mpact screwdriver Micrometer and/or vernier gauge

Carburettor flow balancing device Dial gauge Stroboscopic timing light Dwell angle meter/tachometer Universal electrical multi-meter Cylinder compression gauge Lifting tackle Trolley jack Light with extension lead

Buying tools For practically all tools, a tool factor is the best source since he will have a very comprehensive range compared with the average garage or accessory shop. Having said that, accessory shops often offer excellent quality tools at discount prices, so it pays to shop around. Remember, you don't have to buy the most expensive items on the shelf, but it is always advisable to steer clear of the very cheap tools. There are plenty of good tools around at reasonable prices, so ask the proprietor or manager of the shop for advice before making a purchase.

Care and maintenance of tools

Last, but not least, always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean, lint-free rags available, and try to keep any working area as clean as possible.

Spanner jaw gap comparison table Jaw gap (in.)

Spanner size

0-250

tin. AF

0.275 0-312 0-315 0-340 0-354 0-375 0-393 0.433 0-437 0-445 0-472 0-500 0.512 0-525

7 mm AF 2 in. AF 8 mm AF 11/32 in. AF;% in. Whitworth 9 mm AF 2 in. AF 10 mm AF 11mm AF & in.AF 2 in. Whitworth;7 in. BSF 12 mm AF sin.AF 13 mm AF z in. Whitworth;3 in. BSF

0-551

0-562 0-590

15 mm AF

0-600

2 in. Whitworth; in. BSF

0-629

16 mm AF

0-625

17 mm AF

0-687 0-708 0-710

Bin.AF 18 mm AF 3 in. Whitworth; in. BSF

0-748

19 mm AF

0-750 0-812 0-820 0-866 0.875 0-920

3 in. AF Bin.AF % in. Whitworth;3 in. BSF 22 mm AF = in. AF + in. Whitworth; in. BSF

0-944

24 mm AF

0-937

Working facilities

workbench or table at a suitable working height. Any workbench needs a vice; one with a jaw opening of 4 in (100 mm) is suitable for most jobs. As mentioned previously, some clean dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as the lubricants, cleaning fluids, touch-up paints and so on which become necessary. Another item which may be required, and which has a much more

general usage, is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of at least 3 in (8 mm). This, together with a good range of twist drills, is virtually essential for fitting accessories such as wing mirrors and reversing lights.

8 in. AF

0-669

Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is necessary to keep the tools in a clean serviceable condition. After use, always wipe off any dirt, grease and metal particles using a clean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away. Never leave them lying around after they have been used. A simple tool rack on the garage or workshop wall, for items such as screwdrivers and pliers, is a good idea. Store all normal spanners and sockets in a metal box. Any measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc., must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged or become rusty. Take a little care when tools are used. Hammer heads inevitably become marked and screwdrivers lose the keen edge on their blades from time-to-time. A little timely attention with emery cloth or a file will soon restore items like this to a good serviceable finish.

Not to be forgotten when discussing tools, is the workshop itself. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some form of suitable working area becomes essential. It is appreciated that many an owner mechanic is forced by circumstances to remove an engine or similar item without the benefit of a garage or workshop. Having done this, any repairs should always be done under the cover of a roof. Wherever possible, any dismantling should be done on a clean flat

14 mm AF

2 in.AF

in.AF

1-000

1 in. AF

1-010 1-023 1-062 1-100

2 in. Whitworth;2 in. BSF 26 mm AF 1% in. AF;27 mm AF 3 in. Whitworth;# in. BSF

1-181

30 mm AF

1-200 1-250 1-259

% in. Whitworth;$ in. BSF 14 in. AF 32 mm AF

1-300 eZ

3 in. Whitworth;Z in. BSF 13 in. AF

1-390 1.417

#3 in. Whitworth; in. BSF 36 mm AF

1-480

4 in. Whitworth;1

1-500 1-574

14 in. AF 40 mm AF; in. Whitworth

1-614

41 mm AF

1-670 1-687 1:811 1-812 1-860 1-875 1-968 2-000 2-050 2-165 2-362

1 in. Whitworth;14 in. BSF 12 in. AF

1-125

1-437

1-625

14 in. AF

12 in. AF

in. BSF

18 in. AF

46 mm AF

12 in. AF 13 in. Whitworth;14 in. BSF 1Z in. AF 50 mm AF 2 in. AF 14 in. Whitworth;12 in. BSF 55 mm AF 60 mm AF

Chapter 1 Engine Contents Ancillary engine components—removal

................0

7

Big-end and main bearings — examination and renovation ..... am Shaiteremova \ie.wews tga Aree oar a eran. Goce ra kt a Camshaft and camshaft bearings — examination and renovation . Camshaft and front endplate — refitting ................... Connecting rods to crankshaft— reassembly ............... Crankshaft — examination andrenovation ................. Crankshatt i enctinG swim teen oe cute sesusia oe ents nets Crankshaft and main bearings—removal ................. Crankshaft rear seal, housing, endplate and flywheel — refitting ..

28 14 31 49 48 2, 44 20 55

Cylinder bores — examination and renovation .............. Cylinder head'— decarbonisation; ... os... ...e.25 cenveuen

29 40

CVlinGenNeatieenttinGaeanytr. cuncce fc Gaels sake eon EPR cre ore Cylinder head removal—engineincar ................05. Cylinder head removal—engine onbench ................. Distributor and distributor drive — refitting ................ Distabutondnive removal: ai, aks dcn as Fee ee een ee ee EROING ain allaSSOODlY musmaart crea cack mae e lclive iment eee eee

53 9 8

Engine Engine EMIS Engine ENQGING

— initial start-up after overhaul or majorrepair ........ —imetnoG Onremoval o. 5 wih.) oe a eee os eee es CO MttinG miei eecs ta eeeS Seek Mae GOR Wwhaa eee Rae —removal'withigearbox . 2... 2.6.46 6h2 eb os Fee oes ChSMAntING = GEMCTAle sailors oe Nees ore thee Ae os we

Enginereassembly —general

co 4 Swiss beers Geta Hoe es

58 15 Bg 61 4 60 5 6

43

Examination and renovation—general ................0.4. Fad icMaGgnOSiS PRGING = cect ieinn =)eek die Matinee Gene Flywheel — examination andrenovation ...............0..

26 62 38

Flywheel and engine endplate—removal

19

.................

Flywheel starter ring — examination and renovation .......... SI Generalideseniptiony pass) esarcioraciesar pected uesscabs pntaaciaani enon? 1 Gudgeon DIN TemjIOVallone tee oh otnis 4.Sh sep shia oa ia

Lubrication and crankcase ventilation systems — description Major operations necessitating removal of engine Major operations possible with engine in place

Oil filter — removal and refitting Oil pressure relief valve — removal and refitting Oil pump — examination and renovation Oil pump — refitting Oil pump — removal and dismantling Pistons — refitting Piston rings — refitting Piston rings — removal Pistons and connecting rods — reassembly Pistons and piston rings — examination and renovation

Rocker arms/valves — adjustment Rocker assembly — dismantling Rockers and rocker shaft — examination and renovation Rocker shaft and tappets — reassembly Sump — examination and renovation Sump — refitting Sump, pistons, connecting rods, and big-end bearings — removal Tappets — examination and renovation Timing chain tensioner — examination and renovation Timing chain tensioner — removal and refitting Timing cover, gears and chain — removal Timing gears and chain — examination and renovation Timing gears, chain tensioner and cover — refitting Valves — removal Valves and valve springs — reassembly Valve guides — examination and renovation Valve guides — removal

ee

Specifications a

Engine (general) Number of cylinders Bore Stroke Cubic capacity Compression ratio Firing order Oversize bores Valve operation

2.9 in (73.7 mm)

3.44 in (87.5 mm) 91 cu in (1493 cc) 9:1(1500TC) 8.5: 1 (Dolomite 1500) 1-3-4-2 +0.020 in (+0.51 mm) Overhead, pushrod

Crankshaft Main journal dia. Minimum regrind dia. CrankpinjOurnaliGidawa Minimum regrind dia. Crankshaft end thrust Crankshaft endfloat

ace eksime eae LUa ekeles sae

Main bearings Number

Length (front, centre and rear) End thrust Diametrical clearance Undersizes

reenneny ahr MMs

2.3115 2.2815 1.8750 1.8450

to to to to

2.3120 2.2820 1.8755 1.8455

in in in in

(58.713 (57.935 (47.625 (46.865

to to to to

58.725 57.948 47.638 46.878

mm) mm) mm) mm)

Via rear main bearing thrust washer

0.004 to 0.008 in (0.10 to 0.20 mm)

3 Thin wall

0.840 to 0.855 in (21.34 to 21.72 mm) Via rear main bearing thrust washer

0.0005 to 0.002 in (0.013 to 0.050 mm) 0.010, 0.020, 0.030 in (0.25, 0.50, 0.76 mm)

16

Chapter 1 Engine

Connecting rods Length between centres Small end bush diameter (reamed in position)

5.748 to 5.752 in (145.90 to 146.10 mm) 0.8126 to 0.8129 in (20.64 to 20.65 mm)

Big-end bearings Length Diametrical clearance Undersizes

.

0.672 to 0.692 in (17.20 to 19.58 mm) 0.001 to 0.003 in (0.03 to 0.08 mm) 0.010, 0.020, 0.030 in (0.25, 0.51, 0.76 mm)

Gudgeon pin Type

Connectingrodfit

...

Outside diameter

Fully floating Hand push-fit 0.8123 to 0.8125 in (20.63 to 20.64 mm)

Pistons Type Bore size: ‘F’ grade

‘G’ grade

Solid skirt, aluminium alloy

2.8995 to 2.9000 in (73.647 to 72.660 mm) 2.9001 to 2.9006 in (73.663 to 73.673 mm)

Clearance in skirt in bore:

0.0041 to 0.0051 in (0.104 to 0.129 mm) 0.002 to 0.003 in (0.05 to 0.076 mm) Number of rings Width of ring grooves: Top/second Oil control

2 compression and 1 oil

0.064 to 0.065 in (1.625 to 1.650 mm) 0.157 to 0.158 in (3.99 to 4.02 mm) 0.8123 to 0.8125 in (20.63 to 20.64 mm)

Piston rings Compression: Top

Second Width (top/second) .. Fitted gap (top/second)

Plain type, chrome plated Tapered periphery 0.121 to 0.128 in (3.073 to 3.251 mm) 0.012 to 0.022 in (0.305 to 0.559 mm)

Camshaft Journal diameter Bore in block Diametrical clearances: Front and rear Centre End thrust Endfloat Drive

1.9649 to 1.9654 in (49.91 to 49.92 mm) 1.9680 to 1.9695 in (49.980 to 50.025 mm) 0.0016 to 0.0036 in (0.04 to 0.09 mm) 0.0026 to 0.0046 in (0.07 to 0.12 mm) At front and location plate

0.004 to 0.008 in (0.110 to 0.216 mm) Chain and gear from crankshaft

Rocker gear Rocker shaft outside diameter Rocker arm bore diameter

0.5607 to 0.5612 in (14.24 to 14.25 mm) 0.563 to 0.564 in (14.30 to 14.33 mm)

Tappets (cam followers) Outside diameter Length

0.7996 to 0.8000 in (20.30 to 20.32 mm) 1.75 in (44.45 mm)

Valves Rocker arm to valve clearance (inlet and exhaust) Seat angle (inlet and exhaust)

0.010 in (0.25 mm) — cold

Valve face angle (inlet and exhaust)

45.5° 45°

Head diameter: Inlet

1.429 to 1.433 in (36.31 to 36.40 mm)

Exhaust

Stem diameter: Inlet Exhaust

1.168 to 1.172 in (29.66 to 29.76 mm)

0.3107 to 0.3113 in (7.89 to 7.91 mm) 0.3100 to 0.3105 in (7.874 to 7.887 mm)

Stem guide clearance: Inlet

0.0008 to 0.0023 in (0.02 to 0.06 mm) 0.0015 to 0.0030 in (0.04 to 0.07 mm)

Valve guides Length (inlet and exhaust)

Fitted height

Diameter (inlet and exhaust): Outside Inside

2.0625 in (52.387 mm) 0.75 in (19.050 mm) 0.501 to 0.502 in (12.72 to 12.75 mm) 0.312 to 0.313 in (7.92 to 7.95 mm)

Chapter 1 Engine

17

Ree SSS SSS SSS

sss"

Ss

SSS

Valve springs Free-length:

Outer

1.52 in (38.60 mm)

Inner

1.14 in (30.0 mm)

Valve timing RIL U.N

ieee ee

er eee

ON

ee

kn a

Ie

Notch on crankshaft pulley — pointers on timing chest

Rocker arm/valve clearance — numbers 7 and 8 valves

(for valve timing only) Inlet valve opens fOletvalVerclaSeS many gata wake mee meee ie Mah) ome ExXhaustvalVerOPensine. nc air ce ee at eae aon” ExhatistValVeicloSeses. 5 nae entne eae ee es ons ee

0.050 in (1.27 mm) 132 58° 58° 18°

BUDGE ABDC BBDC ATDC

Lubrication system US

oy. Bars

RA

oe

ae

te ee

ee

eS, oh

en

rr

System pressure: RUUD Ws Be ape: use “ak, Ce Oat fe one eee Oil pump type Clearance between inner and outer rotor Clearance between outer rotorandbody ..................0. BOcOenicdilOcatumnm mar rae ype Re ee ee CEU, fs ceo ccx cd dae eee et Oil filter

Wet sump pressure feed

40 to 60 Ibf in? (2.81 to 4.2 kgf cm’) Habourn Eaton eccentric lobe

0.010 in (0.25 mm) maximum 0.008 in (0.20 mm) maximum 0.004 in (0.10 mm) maximum Full flow replaceable element 3 to 5 Ibf in? (0.21 to 0.35 kgf cm?) oil pressure

Torque wrench settings

Ibf ft

kgf m

AVacleaneattach teal taeda ticeeiiep os 2. oa, Sows Aa iene hb Alternator mounting bracketto block: $0. 5.02 see. myer eee oo oe Alternator to adjusting link Alternator to mounting bracket and front engine plate Beating capSitGiplockas Neches aeons, Sens kei ss aoev nnd ae oe ble Clutch to flywheel Connecting rod bolts SEANKS Maran Ukumeme nae tess eM NS i eA Gay eh Eee ater amie owas eset CUUNGEMDIOCKGRANT OIG nse nce topes nus.t Jo RRA ime aude a brine Ss CYUNACHDIOCK OW GAC Vers aa sca bas. 41ers eee riet kes eee ce Cyincerblocwoilgallery-Seals) 4 tions «ued © so cue oe wee yn Cylinder head to block

8 20 20 20 65 11 45 150 38 14 20 46 14 40 14 65 Z5 20 20 25 20 2 20 34 14 20 20 34 20

ai) 2.8 2.8 228 9.0 15 6.2 20.7 5 1.9 2.8 6.4 (ES S15) 8) 9.0 315 2.8 2.8 3.5 2.8 0.3 2.8 4.7 we 2.8 Ps) 4.7 2.8

Exhaust manifold to cylinder head Flywheel to crankshaft Gearbox andirearengine plate to blocking...

Rocker cover attachment Rocker oil feed to block Rocker pedestalitoicylinder head,

Wan 2.5.

5

aid

we Wee aes Be

Sealing blocktOscVINnGdemDlOCK Mapas lene c eran ee ome wee ee Sealingibiockito~engineblate: 4. cies ose s class time hs «abe SOA DIUGS eae One ees Mev) aint Sn Se Cue te eames StanterinmotorattachtMwent ac. «suc eteksis cic ote brace whe fheres sey meets cslaets Water pump to cylinder head

1

enclosed in a pressed steel cover. The timing chain is tensioned automatically by a spring blade, attached to the inside of the cover, which presses against the non-driving side of the chain.

General description

The engine is a four cylinder, overhead valve type and is supported on a single rubber mounting at each side. There are two valves per cylinder, which are mounted vertically in the cast iron cylinder head, the guides for the valves being pressed into the head. The valves are operated by overhead rocker arms, controlled by pushrods and tappets, in conjunction with a camshaft which is at the bottom lefthand side of the engine. The cylinder block and the upper half of the crankcase are a one

piece iron casting. The bottom part of the crankcase is a steel pressing which is also the oil sump. The pistons are aluminium alloy with solid skirts and have two compression rings and one oil control ring. The crankshaft is supported on three bearings of the thin wall, renewable type, the end thrust being taken by thrust washers on the rear bearing. At the front of the engine, a single chain drives the camshaft from the

crankshaft,

the

chain

and

associated

sprocket

wheels

being

The camshaft is supported on four bearings, bored directly into the

cylinder block and the bearings are non-renewable. Camshaft endfloat is controlled plate.

by a forked locating plate, positioned on the front end-

The centrifugal water pump, radiator cooling fan and the alternator are driven by a V-belt from a pulley, keyed to the crankshaft. The distributor is mounted in the middle of the left-hand side of the cylinder block and is driven from a short shaft and a skew gear, which engages with a gear on the camshaft. The distributor has automatic control of ignition timing, to suit varying engine load and speed. A pressure-fed, oil-circulating system, with continuous filtration, is provided by an oil pump in the crankcase. The pump shares a common drive with the distributor. The flywheel is attached to the crankshaft by four bolts and the rim is fitted with a ring gear, with which the pinion of the starter motor engages.

Fig. Cover — rocker gear Cover — joint gasket Cylinder head

Cylinder head gasket Cylinder block Cylinder liner Crankshaft Starting ring and flywheel Sump gasket Sump ~DOANDAAWNH™

1.1 Exploded view of engine — typical

Sump drain plug Self locking nut Washer Fibre washer Oil filler cap Lifting bracket Exhaust valve Inlet valve Valve spring Shroud for valve guide

30

Valve spring cup Valve cotter Rocker Rocker shaft bracket ‘ Spacer Tappet adjusting screw and /ocknut Split pin Rocker shaft Nut and washer — rocker shaft bracket Rocker spacing spring

Rocker shaft bracket Rocker cover nut and washer

Rocker cover securing stud Valve guide Rocker shaft bracket and stud Core plugs Induction manifold stud Exhaust manifold stud

Piston rings Piston

19

Chapter 1 Engine

Plug

73

Core plugs

107 Dowel

41

Spring washer

74

Stud

108

42 43

Gudgeon pin Circlip

75 76

Dowel Camshaft

109 Oil pressure sensing unit 110 Flywheel bolt

Distributor drive adaptor

44

Smallend bush

77 ~ Gasket

1771

Oil filter andjoint washer

45 46

Connecting rod Sleeve

78 79

Front engine plate Timing chain

112 113

Sleeve Plug

47 48 49

Big-end cap and bolt Big-end bearing shells Pushrod

80 81 82

Camshaft sprocket Chain tensioner Sprocket bolt

114 Oil pressure relief valve 115 Relief valve nut 7116 Crossmember

50 51

Tappet Water pump elbow Elbow securing stud, nut and lockwasher

83 84

Chaincase gasket Chaincase

Gasket Seal

52

53

Dipstick

54 55

Thermostat Top gasket — water pump

.

56 57 58 59

Adaptor for temperature sensor Temperature sensor unit Hose adaptor Water pump securing bolt

60 61 62 63 64 65

Water pump securing bolt (long) and washer Spindle and vane Spindle housing gasket Spindle housing plug (securing) Seal Spindle and bearing housing

85

Chaincase securing nut and lockwasher

117 718 719

86

Chaincase securing bolt and lockwasher (long)

120

Sleeve (flywheel to crankshaft)

87 88

Chaincase securing bolt and lockwasher (short) Camshaft locating plate

121 122

Fuel pump Fuel main bearing thrust washer

89 90 91 92

Core plug Drain tap (water) Head securing studs (grooved) Head securing stud (standard)

and lockwasher 123 Rear main bearing thrust washer 124 Main bearing shells 125 Main bearing cap

93

Dowel

126

Bearing cap bolt and lockwasher

94 95 96 97 98 99

Stud Core plugs Gearbox bearer plate Rear oil seal housing Seal housing bolt and lockwasher Rear oil seal

127 128 129 130 131 132

Crankshaft key Thrust washers Crankshaft sprocket Oil thrower Crankshaft pulley Pulley retaining bolt Sump securing bolt

(medium) and washer

66 67 68 69 70 71 72

Spindle housing nut and

100

Oil seal housing gasket

133

lockwasher

101

Bolt and lockwasher (bearer plate)

134 Securing bolt and lockwasher

Fan pulley and hub Dipstick guide Water pump housing gasket Water pump securing bolt (short) and washer Fan

102 103 104 105 106

Oil gallery piug Drain plug and washer Securing plug for fue! pump Core plug Securing plug for distributor

Fansecuring bolt and lockwasher ;

2

F

;

;

housing ras

Major operations possible with engine in place

Removal Removal Removal Removal Removal — OWN cover oil Removal ne) Removal

and and and and and seal. and and

refitting of the cylinder head. refitting of the sump. refitting of the big-end bearings. refitting of the pistons and connecting rods. refitting of the timing chain, sprockets and timing refitting of the camshaft. refitting of the oil pump.

3

Major operations necessitating removal of engine

1 2 3

Removal and refitting of the crankshaft. Removal and refitting of the main bearings. Removal and refitting of the flywheel.

4

Engine — method of removal The engine may only be removed with the gearbox attached.

5

Oil pump

Engine and gearbox — removal

The following sequence of operations is in the order that we recommend, but strict adherence to the sequence is not critical; where an operation must be performed prior to another operation, we will

state this. + Remove the bonnet by unscrewing the two setscrews from each of the front hinges, and withdrawing the split pin from the clevis pin securing the bonnet stays. Disconnect and remove the battery. Do not tilt it when lifting out 2 of the car or some electrolyte may be spilled on the paintwork or your clothes. 3. Drain the cooling system (Chapter 2).

4

Place

a suitable

receptacle,

with

a capacity of at least 7 pints,

beneath the engine sump. Remove the drain plug and allow the oil to drain for several minutes. Refit the plug when draining is complete. 5 Remove the top and bottom hoses from the engine and the smaller bore hose from the expansion tank. When pulling these hoses off their pipes, do not lever them about too much since it is quite easy to fracture the joint where the stub pipes are connected to the radiator. Open the clips fully and ease the hoses off gradually. 6 Remove the radiator by releasing the four bolts either side; this will leave the mounting brackets, with horns attached, in the car. Alternatively, remove the radiator with horns attached. 7 Loosen the clips securing the two heater hoses to the engine rear; these are small bore hoses and can easily be pulled off the stub pipes (photo). 8 Disconnect the throttle cable linkage from the carburettors. Withdraw the split pin from the clevis pin on the linkage, and then slacken the adjuster nuts securing the outer cable to the bracket. Lift the complete cable away from the linkage and tie back. 9 Disconnect the choke cable by releasing the screw securing the

cable inner to the choke cam, first loosening the locknut; then pulling on the choke control knob until the inner cable is withdrawn sufficiently to separate the cable outer at the rocker box connector. The inner cable will be left hanging and should be tied out of the way. 10 Remove the nuts and washers securing the exhaust front pipe to the manifold. Retain the gasket released by this operation. 11 Release the HT and LT leads from the distributor. Identify each lead.

12

Disconnect the starter cable by removing the nut and washer that

secures it to the terminal post. 13 Withdraw the multi-socket connector from the alternator. 14 Disconnect the oil pressure switch wire, the water temperature transmitter wire, and the battery earth lead from the alternator mount-

ing bracket. Identify each wire with some form of tag and carefully tie back out of the way of the engine. 15 Remove the fuel feed pipe to the fuel pump inlet and plug the end of the pipe to prevent the ingress of dirt or fuel syphoning out. 16 Working underneath the car, disconnect the propeller shaft from the gearbox drive flange by removing the four bolts and locknuts. Mark

20

Chapter 1 Engine

5.16 Disconnecting the propeller shaft

Saasguernr

eer

on

: 5.25a Engine mounting attachments

4

¢

5.20 Disconnecting the speedometer driv2

oy 3

eee Saye

re 5.26 Gearbox separated from engine

5.25b Removing the engine

a line across the flange-to-shaft joint before breaking the joint (photo). 17 Working underneath the car, disconnect the gear lever from the gearbox extension by unscrewing the nut connecting the lever to the extension rod and withdrawing the bolt and washer. 18 Remove the nut and washer securing the gearbox rear mounting to the sub-frame; it is advisable to support the gearbox extension with a jack or blocks before disconnecting the mounting. This will leave the mounting attached to the gearbox when it is removed from the car. 19 Remove the nut and bolt securing the exhaust pipe clip to the gearbox support arm. 20 Disconnect the speedometer drive cable from the gearbox extension by undoing the locking plate and pulling the cable out (photo). 21 Remove the clamp bolt securing the clutch slave cylinder to its housing; ease the cylinder away from the gearbox and lift it into the engine compartment. Tie the cylinder out of the way of the engine. 22 Working inside the car, remove the gear lever knob and locknut, gearbox carpet, and*the four screws securing the clamp ring to the grommet. Lift the grommet and clamp ring away from the gear lever. 23 Release the gear lever cap by twisting anti-clockwise and thus releasing it from the two projections on the extension boss. Withdraw the steel and nylon cups over the gear lever and then remove the circlip and spring. Pull the gear lever out of the extension; the nylon half-sphere will remain on the bottom of the lever.

24 Attach the lifting equipment to the engine lifting eyes and take the weight of the engine on the sling. 25 Remove the two nuts and bolts securing each front mounting to the sub-frame (photo). Lift the engine slightly to raise the sump above the sub-frame and make a final check to ensure that all connections are free of the engine. Raise the hoist slowly and manoeuvre the engine and gearbox clear of the vehicle. It is sound practice to place some form of padding over the perimeter of the engine compartment in case the paintwork or chrome is damaged when removing the assembly (photo). 26 With the combined engine/gearbox safely on the workshop floor it is necessary to remove the gearbox before work can commence on the

from the splines. The weight of the gearbox should never be allowed to hang on the clutch splines (photo).

6

Engine dismantling — general

1 It is best to mount the engine on a dismantling stand, but if one is Rot available, stand the engine on a strong bench to be at a comfortable working height. 2 During the dismantling process the greatest care should be taken to keep the exposed parts free from dirt. As an aid to achieving this, thoroughly clean down the outside of the engine, removing all traces of oil and congealed dirt. 3 Use paraffin or a grease solvent. The latter compound will make the job much easier for, after the solvent has been applied and allowed to stand for a time, a vigorous jet of water will wash off the solvent with all the grease and filth. If the dirt is thick and deeply embedded, work the solvent into it with a wire brush. 4 Finally, wipe down the exterior of the engine with a rag and only then, when it is quite clean, should the dismantling process begin. As the engine is stripped, clean each part in a bath of paraffin or petrol. 5

Never immerse

parts with oilways in paraffin, eg. the crankshaft,

but to clean, wipe down carefully with a petrol dampened rag. Oilways can be cleaned out with pipe cleaners. If an air line is available, all parts can be blown dry and the oilways blown through as an added precaution. 6 Re-use of old engine gaskets is false economy and can give rise to

oil and water leaks. Always use new gaskets throughout. 7

Do not throw the old gaskets away, for it sometimes happens that

engine. Remove the bolts and washers securing the bellhousing to the

an immediate replacement cannot be found and the old gasket is then very useful as a template. Hang up the old gaskets as they are removed, on a suitable hook or nail. 8 To strip the engine it is best to work from the top down. The sump provides a firm base on which the engine can be supported in an upright position. When the stage where the sump must be removed is reached, the engine can be turned on its side and all other work carried

engine rear plate. Pull the gearbox

out with it in this position.

and bellhousing

away from the

engine, endeavouring to keep the input shaft central as it is withdrawn

9

Wherever possible, refit nuts, bolts and washers finger-tight from

Chapter 1 Engine

21

where they were removed. This helps avoid later loss and muddle. If they cannot be refitted then lay them out in such a fashion that it is clear from where they came.

a

a Ancillary engine components -- removal 7 en 1

ee

ee ee

Before basic engine dismantling can begin, the engine should be

stripped

of all its ancillary components.

removed if a factory exchange The items comprise:

These

items should

also be

reconditioned unit is being purchased.

Alternator and alternator brackets

Water pump and thermostat housing Starter motor Distributor and spark plugs Inlet and exhaust manifold and carburettor Fuel pump and fuel pipes Oil filter and dipstick Oil filler cap Clutch assembly 2 All these items can be removed with the engine in the car, if it is merely an individual item which requires attention. It is easy to renew the clutch with engine and gearbox still in the car. 3 Starting work on the left-hand side of the engine, slacken off the alternator retaining bolts and remove the unit and then the support brackets. 4 Take off the distributor and housing, after undoing the two nuts and washers which hold the bottom flange of the distributor housing to the cylinder block. Retain and note the shims between the housing and the block. Do not loosen the square nut on the clamp at the base of the distributor body, or the timing will be lost. Undo the spark plugs. 5 Note that the fuel pump is held in place by two studs. 6 Undo the nuts and lift off the fuel pump. 7 Undo and remove the low oil pressure warning switch located beneath the distributor mounting. 8 Undo and remove the oil filter. The complete body screws off anticlockwise. 9 Moving to the front of the engine, undo the two thermostat housing cover securing bolts. Lift away the cover and the thermostat. 10

Undo

the

nuts

and

washers

which

hold

the

inlet and

exhaust

manifolds to the cylinder head. The inner nuts are very difficult to get at and are best loosened with a thin ring spanner. 11 Lift off the inlet and exhaust manifolds together with the carburettor. If stiff, tap the manifolds gently with a piece of wood. 12 Undo the bolts which hold the water pump in place on the front face of the block (photo). 13 Undo a quarter of a turn at a time, the six bolts which hold the clutch pressure plate assembly to the flywheel. 14 Lift off the pressure plate together with the loose friction plate. 15 Undo the two bolts holding the starter motor in place and lift off the motor. Note and retain the distance piece and any shims that are

7.15 Starter motor and distance piece

fitted (photo).

8

Cylinder head removal — engine on bench

1

With the engine out of the car and standing on the bench or floor,

remove the cylinder head as follows: 2 Unscrew the two rocker cover nuts and lift away the nuts, plain washers, rocker cover and cork gasket. 3. Unscrew the four rocker pedestal nuts, and lift away the nuts and washers. Carefully lift the rocker assembly from the top of the cylinder head. 4 Undo the ten cylinder head nuts half a turn at a time. When all the nuts are no longer under tension they may be screwed off the cylinder head retaining studs, one at a time. Lift away the lifting bracket from the two rear right-hand studs. The cylinder head nuts should be removed in the reverse order to that given in Fig. 1.2. 5 Remove the pushrods keeping them in the relative order in which they were removed. The easiest way to do this is to push them through a sheet of thin card in the correct sequence. Make sure the tappets remain in their bores. 6 The cylinder head can now be removed by lifting upwards. If the head is jammed, try to rock it to break the seal. Under no

Fig. 1.2 The loosening and tightening sequence for cylinder head nuts (Secs. 8 and 53) circumstances try to prise it apart from the cylinder block with a screwdriver or cold chisel, as damage may be done to the faces of the head or block. If the head will not free readily, turn the engine over by the flywheel

or starter

ring gear

carrier,

as the compression

in the

cylinders will often break the cylinder head joint. If this fails to work, strike the head sharply with a plastic headed hammer or wooden hammer, or with a metal hammer with an interposed piece of wood to cushion the blows. Under no circumstances hit the head directly with a metal hammer, as this may cause the iron casting to fracture. Several sharp taps with the hammer, at the same time pulling upwards, should

22

Chapter 1 Engine

ee

free the head. Lift the head cylinder head gasket.

9

off and place on one

side. Recover

the

head.

Cylinder head removal — engine in car

To remove the cylinder head with the engine still in the car, the following additional procedure should be carried out before that listed in Section 8. 1. Disconnect the battery earth terminal for safety reasons.

2

-Drain the water by undoing the taps at the base of the radiator and

the rear of the cylinder block.

3

Loosen

with a suitable hard steel punch, drive the guides out of the cylinder

the clip at the thermostat

housing end on the top water

12

Rocker assembly — dismantling

1

To dismantle the rocker assembly, release the rocker shaft locating

screw, remove

the split pin from the front of the shaft, and slide the

shaft from the pedestals, rocker arms and rocker spacing springs. The rear pedestal is secured to the shaft by a Phillips screw.

2 From the end of the shaft, undo the plug which gives access to the inside of the rocker, which can now be cieaned of sludge etc. Ensure the rocker arm lubricating holes are clear.

hose, and pull the hose from the thermostat housing pipe.

4

Slacken

the alternator

securing

bolts and

move

the alternator

inwards towards the cylinder head. Remove the fan belt. 5 Undo and remove the alternator mounting bolts and nuts and lift away the alternator. Unscrew the two bolts and spring washers securing the alternator mounting bracket to the side of the cylinder head. Lift away the bolts, spring washers and the alternator mounting bracket. 6 Disconnect the fuel line at the carburettor installation end. Also detach the vacuum advance/retard pipe at the distributor vacuum unit. 7 Mark the HT leads to the spark plugs for correct identification and detach the leads from the spark plugs. Release the HT lead from the centre of the ignition coil. 8 Undo and remove the two nuts and spring washers securing the distributor clamping plate to the cylinder block and lift away the distributor. 9 Disconnect the choke and throttle controls at the carburettor installation. 10. Undo and remove all securing nuts and washers holding the inlet and exhaust manifolds to the cylinder head. Detach the exhaust manifold connection from the exhaust system down pipe and lift away the inlet and exhaust manifolds. Recovery the gaskets.

12

Disconnect the rubber hose connection at the thermostat housing

by slackening the clip and drawing off the hose. 13 Undo the heater pipe connection union nut at the rear of the water pump body. Detach the temperature gauge sender unit cable terminal from the unit on the thermostat housing. 14 Slacken the bottom radiator hose clip at the water pump and detach the hose from the water pump. 15 Undo and remove the three bolts securing the water pump to the front of the cylinder head and lift away the water pump. Recover the paper gasket.

en 13

St

Timing cover, gears and chain — removal

The timing cover, gears and chain can be removed with the engine in the car, provided that the radiator, fan blades and fan belt ere removed. The procedure is identical whether the engine is in the car, or out of it and is as follows: 1. Fit a ring spanner on the crankshaft pulley nut and tap the spanner with a heavy hammer to release the nut. Unless the nut has rusted badly, it should not be necessary to put the car into gear and apply the brakes to lock the crankshaft and it is better to avoid this if possible. Remove the crankshaft nut. 2 Pull off the crankshaft pulley, if necessary prising it with two levers placed behind the pulley.

3 Unscrew the bolts and screws securing the timing cover. There are five screws, six bolts and one nut and when refitting them, it should be noted that screws are used in the positions where the timing cover is only attached to the engine front plate.

4

Pull off the timing cover and its gasket. Check the chain for wear

by measuring how much it can be depressed and if this is more than + in (12.7 mm) a new chain should be fitted (Fig. 1.3). 5 Remove the oil thrower, noting that its dished side is towards the timing chain cover. 6 Using a drift or screwdriver, tap back the tabs of the lockwasher on the two camshaft gear retaining bolts and remove the bolts (photo). 7 Remove the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets with the chain by pulling the camshaft sprocket off its dowels and at the same time prising off the crankshaft sprocket. 8 Remove the Woodruff key from the crankshaft, then the shims from behind the crankshaft sprocket and store them safely.

16 The procedure is now the same as for removing the cylinder head when the engine is on the bench or floor.

10

Valves — removal

It is essential

that the valves

RULE OR STRAIGHT EDGE are kept in their correct sequence

unless they are so badly worn that they are to be renewed. If they are going to be kept and used again, place them in a sheet of card having eight holes numbered 1 to 8 corresponding with the relative positions the valves were in when fitted. Also keep the springs and collets in the correct order. 1 Compress each spring in turn with a valve spring compressor until the two halves of the collets can be removed. Release the compressor and remove the cap, spring, shroud and valve. 2 If, when the valve spring compressor is screwed down, the valve

spring retaining cap refuses to free and expose the split collet, do not continue to screw down on the compressor as there is a likelihood of damaging it. 3 Gently tap the top of the tool directly over the cap with a light hammer. This will free the cap. To avoid the compressor jumping off the valve spring retaining cap when it is tapped, hold the compressor firmly in position with one hand. Drop each valve out through the combustion chamber.

st 11

ee

Valve guide — removal

If it is wished to remove the valve guides they can be removed from the cylinder head in the following manner. Place the cylinder head with the gasket face on the bench and

CHECK AND NOTE ADJACENT TIMING MARKS

Fig.

1.3 Method of checking timing chain wear (Sec. 13)

A = 0:5 in(12.7 mm) orless B = Timing marks

Chapter 1 Engine 14

23

adjacent sides of the big-end caps and connecting rods, indicating which cap fits on which rod and which way round the cap fits. If no

Camshaft — removal

numbers

The camshaft can be removed with the engine in place in the car, or with the engine on the bench. If the camshaft is to be removed with the engine in the car, the radiator, fan blades and belt, andthe radiator left-hand grille should be removed after the cooling system has been drained. The inlet and exhaust manifolds, rocker-gear, pushrods and tappets, and fuel pump must also be removed. The timing cover, gears and chain, must be removed as described in Section 13. It is also necessary to remove the distributor drive gear as described in Section 15. With the drive gear out of the way, proceed as follows: 1 First measure the camshaft endfloat with a feeler gauge placed between the keeper plate and the flange. If endfloat exceeds 0.008 in (0.216 mm) it will be necessary to fit a new plate. Then remove the two bolts and spring washers which hold the camshaft locating plate to the block. The bolts are normally covered by the camshaft gearwheel. 2 Remove the plate (photo). The camshaft can now be withdrawn. Take great care to remove the camshaft gently. It may be necessary to remove the engine mountings and jack-up the engine sufficiently to enable the camshaft to be withdrawn through the radiator grille.

or lines can

be found, then with a sharp screwdriver or file

scratch mating marks across the joint from the rod to the cap. One line for connecting rod No 1, two for connecting rod No 2, and so on. This will ensure there is no confusion later as it is most important that the caps go back in the correct position on the connecting rods from which they were removed. 6 If the big-end caps are difficult to remove, they may be gently tapped with a soft hammer. 7 To remove the shell bearings, press the bearing opposite the groove in both the connecting rods, and the connecting rod caps and

the bearings will slide out easily. 8 Withdraw the pistons and connecting rods upwards and ensure they are kept in the correct order for replacement in the same bore. Refit the connecting rod caps and bearings to the rods, if the bearings do not require renewal, to minimise the risk of getting the caps and rods in the wrong order.

17

Gudgeon pin — removal

1 To remove the gudgeon pin and free the piston from the connecting rod, remove one of the circlips at either end of the pin with a pair of 15

Distributor drive — removal

circlip pliers (photo).

1 To remove the distributor drive with the sump still in position first undo the two nuts which hold the distributor housing in place. 2 Lift off the distributor, distributor housing and the associated gasket, which should be stored for possible re-use. Then, with a pair of long nosed pliers, lift out the driveshaft. As the shaft is removed turn it slightly to allow the shaft skew gears to disengage from the camshaft skew gear.

16 Sump, removal

pistons,

connecting

rods

and

big-end

bearings

—

1 The sump, pistons and connecting rods can be removed with the engine still in the car or with the engine on the bench. If in the car, proceed as for removing the cylinder head with the engine in the car, as described in Section 9. If on the bench, proceed as for removing the cylinder head with the engine in this position, as described in Section 8. The pistons and connecting rods are drawn up out of the top of the cylinder bores. 2 If the engine is in the car it will be necessary to drain the sump oil,

remove the engine mountings and raise the engine sufficiently to lower the sump, turn it 90° and withdraw. The sump itself is removed by releasing the sixteen bolts that secure it to the crankcase. Retrieve the sump gasket. Note the longer bolts fitted at the rear of the sump. 3 Remove the oil pump strainer by releasing the locknut and unscrewing the strainer.

4 Knock back with a cold chisel the locking tabs on the big-end retaining bolts, and remove the bolts and locking tabs. 5 Remove the big-end caps one at a time, taking care to keep them in the right order and the correct way round. Also ensure that the shell bearings are kept with their correct connecting rods and caps unless they

,

are

renewed.

=

Normally,

the

hy

numbers

1 to 4 are

stamped

on

2 Press out the pin from the rod and piston with your fingers. 3. If the pin shows reluctance to move, then on no account force it out, as this could damage the piston. Immerse the piston in a pan of boiling water for three minutes. On removal the expansion of the aluminium should allow the gudgeon pin to slide out easily. 4 Make sure the pins are kept with the same piston for ease of refitting and are refitted the same way round.

18

Piston rings — removal

1 Toremove the piston rings, slide them carefully over the top of the piston, taking care not to scratch the aluminium alloy. Never slide them off the bottom of the piston skirt. It is very easy to break the iron piston rings if they are pulled off roughly, so this operation should be done with extreme caution. It is helpful to make use of an old hacksaw blade with the teeth ground off, or better still, an old 0.020 in feeler gauge. 2 Lift one end of the piston ring to be removed, out of its groove, and insert the end of the feeler gauge under it. 3 Turn the feeler gauge slowly round the piston and, as the ring comes out of its groove, apply slight upward pressure so that it rests on the land above. It can then be eased off the piston with the feeler gauge stopping it from slipping into any empty groove, if it is any but the top piston ring that is being removed.

19

Flywheel and engine endplate — removal

Having

removed

the clutch

(see Chapter

5), the flywheel

Ma

’,

@ *.

SS 13.6 Timing chain and sprockets

and

engine endplate can be removed. It is only possible for this operation to be carried out with the engine out of the car.

14.2 Camshaft fixing plate

17.1 Removing a gudgeon pin circlip

24

Chapter 1 Engine

eee

1. Bend back the locking tabs from the four bolts which hold the flywheel to the flywheel flange on the rear of the crankshaft. 2 Unscrew the bolts and remove them, complete with the locking plates if fitted (photo). 3 Lift the flywheel away from the crankshaft flange in order to clear the locating dowel. Note: Some difficulty may be experienced in removing the bolts because of the rotation of the crankshaft every time pressure is put on the spanner. To lock the crankshaft in position while the bolts are removed, use a screwdriver as a wedge between a backplate stud and the ring gear. Alternatively a wooden wedge can be inserted between the crankshaft and the side of the block inside the crankcase. 4 The engine endplate is held in position by a number of bolts and spring washers of varying sizes. Release the bolts noting where

different sizes fit and place them

together to ensure

none of them

possibility of crankcase fumes entering the interior of the car.

22

Oil filter — removal and refitting

1 The oil filter on all models is readily accessible and can be replaced very quickly. It is located on the left-hand side of the engine towards

the front. Unscrew the complete turning it anti-clockwise (photo).

filter unit by grasping it firmly and

2 Throw the complete filter unit away, clean the mating faces on a new filter and the crankcase, and ensure the sealing ring on the new filter is undamaged. Smear oil round the sealing ring and screw the new filter on W handtight.

fe

become lost. Lift away the endplate from the block. 5 The front engine endplate is removed in identical fashion.

23 20

Crankshaft and main bearings — removal

With the engine out of the car, remove the timing gears, sump, oil pump, and the big-end bearings, pistons, flywheel and engine endplates as has already been described in Sections 13, 16 and 19. Removal of the crankshaft can only be attempted with the engine on the bench or floor. Take off the front sealing block and the packing pieces. 1 Undo by one turn, the bolts which hold the three main bearing caps in place. 2 Unscrew the bolts and remove them, together with the washers. 3. At the rear of the engine, remove the seven bolts which hold the rear oil seal housing in place and remove the housing and its gasket (photo). 4 Remove the main bearing caps and the bottom half of each bearing shell, taking care to keep the bearing shells in the right caps. 5 When removing the rear bearing cap, NOTE the bottom semicircular halves of the thrust washers, one half lying on either side of the main bearing. Lay them with the centre bearing along the correct side. 6 Slightly rotate the crankshaft to free the upper halves of the bearing shells and thrust washers which should now be extracted and placed over the correct bearing cap. 7 Remove the crankshaft by lifting it away from the crankcase.

To prevent excessive oil pressure, for example when the engine is =: cold, an oil pressure relief valve is built into the left-hand side of the engine immediately above the crankcase flange and in line vertically with the distributor. 2 The relief valve assembly is dismantled by undoing the large hexagonal headed bolt which holds the relief valve piston and spring in place (photo). 3 Always renew the spring at a major overhaul. To refit the assembly, fit the valve piston into its orifice in the block, then the spring followed by the bolt, ensuring that the sealing washer is in place on the latter.

24

Lubrication and crankcase ventilation systems — description

1 A forced feed system of lubrication is fitted, with oil circulated round the engine from the sump below the block. The level of engine oil in the sump is indicated on the dipstick which is fitted on the righthand side of the engine. It is marked to indicate the optimum level which is the maximum mark. 2 The level of the oil in the sump, ideally, should not be above or below this line. Oil is replenished via the filler cap on the rocker cover. 3 The eccentric rotor-type oil pump is bolted in the left-hand side of the crankcase and is driven by a short shaft from the skew gear on the

Oil pump — removal and dismantling

1 Undo the three bolts and spring washers which hold the pump to the underside of the cylinder block. Removal of these bolts also releases the end cover so the pump Nh can be taken from the engine and the outer and inner rotors pulled off, together with the pump and strainer (photo).

25 21

Oil pressure relief valve — removal and refitting

Timing chain tensioner — removal! and refitting

1 With time, the spring bladed timing chain tensioner will become worn and it should be renewed at the same time as the timing chain. Wear can besclearly seen as two grooves on the face of the tensioner where it presses against the chain. 2 To remove the tensioner, bend it back then pull it out from its securing

pins.

On refitting, fit the open end of the tensioner over the pin and press the blade with the aid of a screwdriver until it snaps into place. Ww

camshaft which also drives the distributor shaft.

26

4 The pump is the non-draining type to allow rapid pressure build-up when starting from cold. 5 Oil is drawn from the sump via the pick-up strainer. From the oil pump, the lubricant passes through a non-adjustable relief valve to the

With the engine stripped down and all parts thoroughly cleaned, it is now time to examine everything for wear. The following items

full flow filter. Filtered oil enters the main gallery which runs the length of the engine on the left-hand side. Drillings from the main gallery carry the oil to the crankshaft and camshaft journals. 6 The crankshaft is drilled so that oil under pressure reaches the crankpins from the crankshaft journals. The cylinder bores, pistons and

Examination and renovation — general

should

be checked

and, where

necessary,

renewed

or renovated

as

described in the following Sections.

27

Crankshaft — examination and renovation

gudgeon pins are all lubricated by splash and oil mist. 7

Oilis fed to the valve gear via the hollow rocker shaft, at a reduced

pressure, by means of a scroll and two flats on the camshaft rear journal (photo). 8 Drillings and grooves in the camshaft front journal lubricate the

Examine the crankpins and main journal surfaces for signs of scoring or scratches. Check the ovality of the crankpins at different positions with a micrometer. If more than 0.001 in (0.025 mm) out of round, the crankpins will have to be reground. They will also have to be

camshaft thrust plate, the timing chain and gearwheels. Oil returns to

reground

the sump by gravity, the pushrods and cam followers being lubricated by oil returning via the pushrod drillings in the block.

journals in the same fashion. If it is necessary to regrind the crankshaft and fit new bearings, your local Leyland garage or engineering works will be able to decide how much metal to grind off and the correct undersize shells to fit.

9

The crankcase ventilation is of the closed-circuit type, with a pipe

connecting

the rocker cover to the air intake filter. This reduces the

if there are any scores or scratches present. Also check the

Chapter 1 Engine

19.2 Flywheel attachment bolts

0.3 Crankshaft oil seal housing

22.1 Oil filter

23.2 Oil pressure relief valve

28

Big-end and main bearings — examination and renovation

from

Big-end bearing failure is often accompanied by a noisy knocking the crankcase and a slight drop in oil pressure. Main bearing

failure is accompanied

by vibration, which

can be quite severe

as the

engine speed rises and falls, and a drop in oil pressure. Bearings which have not broken up, but are badly worn will give rise to low oil pressure and some vibration. Inspect the big-ends, main bearings and thrust washers for signs of general wear, scoring, pitting and scratches. The bearings should be matt grey in colour. With leadindium bearings, should a trace of copper colour be noticed, the bearings are badly worn as the lead bearing material has worn away to expose the indium underlay. Renew the bearings if they are in this condition, or if there is any sign of scoring or pitting. The undersizes available are designed to correspond with the regrind sizes, ie. —O.010 in (0.254 mm) bearings are correct for a crankshaft reground —O.010 in (0.254 mm) undersize. The bearings are in fact, slightly more than the stated undersize, as running clearances have been allowed for during their manufacture. Very long engine life can be achieved by changing big-end bearings at intervals of 30000 miles and main bearings at intervals of 50000 miles, irrespective of bearing wear. Normally, crankshaft wear

25

21.7 Camshaft oil scroll and flat

24.2 Oil pump and strainer (dismantled)

piston rings. 2 Measure the bore diameter just under the ridge with a micrometer, and compare it with the diameter at the bottom of the bore, which is not subject to wear. If the difference between the two measurements is more than 0.006 in (0.152 mm) then it will be necessary to fit special pistons and rings to have the cylinders rebored and to fit over-

size pistons. If no micrometer is available, remove the rings from a piston and place the piston in each bore in turn about 3 in below the top of the bore. If a 0.010 in feeler gauge can be slid between the piston and the cylinder wall on the thrust side of the bore, then remedial action must be taken. 3 Pistons are available in an oversize of 0.020 in (0.52 mm). These are accurately machined to just below these measurements to provide correct running clearances in bores bored out to the exact oversize dimensions. 4 If the bores are slightly worn, but not so badly worn as to justify

reboring them, then special oil control rings and pistons can be fitted which will restore compression and stop the engine burning oil.

between 100000 to 120000 miles before crankshaft regrinding becomes necessary. Crankshafts normally have to be reground because of scoring due to bearing failure.

Several different types are available, and the manufacturers’ instructions concerning their fitting must be followed closely. 5 If the block is to be sent away for reboring, it is essential to remove the cylinder head studs. Lock two nuts together on a stud and then wind the stud out by turning the bottom nut anti-clockwise. 6 If new pistons are being fitted and the bores have not been reground, it is essential to slightly roughen the hard glaze on the sides of the bores with fine glass paper so the new piston rings will have a chance to bed in properly.

29

30

is infinitesimal

and

a change

of bearings

will ensure

mileages

of

Cylinder bores — examination and renovation

i The cylinder bores must be examined for taper, scoring and scratches. Start by carefully examining the top of the cylinder bores. If they are at all worn, a very slight ridge will be found on the thrust side.

This marks the top of the piston ring travel. The owner will have a good indication of the bore wear prior to dismantling the engine, or removing the cylinder head. Excessive oil consumption, accompanied by blue smoke from the exhaust, is a sure sign of worn cylinder bores and

Pistons and piston rings — examination and renovation

If the old pistons are to be refitted, carefully remove the piston rings and then thoroughly clean them. Take particular care to clean out

the piston ring grooves. At the same time do not scratch the aluminium in any way. If new rings are to be fitted to the old pistons, then the top ring should be stepped so as to clear the ridge left above the previous top ring. If a normal but oversize new ring is fitted, it will hit the ridge and break, because the new ring will not have worn in the

26

a

a

a

a

a

Chapter Ee 7 Engine

i

St

same way as the old, which will have worn in unison with the ridge. Before fitting the rings on the pistons, each should be inserted approximately

3 in (76

mm)

down

the

cylinder

bore

and

a

33

Timing gears and chain — examination and renovation

the gap

measured with a feeler gauge. This should be between 0.015 and 0.038 in (0.381 and 0.965 mm). It is essential that the gap should be measured at the bottom of the ring travel, as if it is measured at the top of a worn bore and gives a perfect fit, it could easily seize at the bottom. If the ring gap is too small, rub down the ends of the ring with a very fine file until the gap, when fitted, is correct. To keep the rings square in the bore for measurement, line up each in turn by inserting an old piston in the bore upside down and using the piston to push the

ring down

ee

about 3 in (76 mm). Remove the piston and measure the

piston ring gap.

When fitting new pistons and rings to a rebored engine, the piston ring gap can be measured at the top of the bore as the bore will not taper. It is not necessary to measure the side clearance in the piston ring grooves with the rings fitted, as the groove dimensions are

accurately machined during manufacture. When fitting new oil control

Examine

the teeth

on

both

the crankshaft

gearwheel

and

the

camshaft gearwheel for wear. Each tooth forms an inverted V with the gearwheel periphery, and if worn, the side of each tooth, ie. one side of the inverted V, will be concave when compared with the other. If any sign of wear is present the gearwheels must be renewed. Examine the links of the chain for side slackness, and renew the chain if any slackness is noticeable when compared with a new chain. It is a sensible precaution to renew the chain at about 30000 miles and at a lesser mileage if the engine is stripped down for a major overhaul. The actual rollers on a very badly worn chain may be slightly grooved.

34

Timing chain tensioner — examination and renovation

rings to old pistons, it may be necessary to have the grooves widened by machining to accept the new wider rings.

1 If the timing chain is badly worn it is more than likely that the tensioner will be too. 2 Examine the side of the tensioner which bears against the chain and renew it if it is grooved or ridged. See Section 25 for details.

31 Camshaft tion

35

and camshaft

bearings — examination

and renova-

In the majority of engines the camshaft runs direct in the cylinder block, and wear of the journals and bearings is negligible. If pre-formed camshaft bearings are fitted, it is possible for these to be renewed, but it is an operation for the local Leyland garage or the local engineering works as it demands the use of specialised equipment. The bearings are removed with a special drift, after which new bearings are pressed in, care being taken to ensure the oil holes in the bearings line up with those in the block. On no account can the bearings be reamed in position. The camshaft itself should show no signs of wear, but, if very slight scoring on the cams is evident, the score marks can be removed by very gentle rubbing down with a very fine emery cloth. The greatest care should be taken to keep cam profiles smooth.

32

Valves and valve seats — examination and renovation

1 Examine the heads of the valves for pitting and burning, especially the heads of the exhaust valves. The valve seatings should be examined at the same time. If the pitting on valve and seat is very slight, the marks can be removed by grinding the seats and valves together with coarse, and then fine, grinding paste. Where bad pitting has occurred to the valve seats, it will be necessary to recut them and fit new valves. If the valve seats are so worn that they cannot be recut, then it will be necessary to fit new valve seat inserts. These latter two

jobs should be entrusted to the local Leyland garage or engineering works. In practice, it is very seldom that the seats are so badly worn that they require renewal. Normally, it is the exhaust valve that is too badly worn to be refitted, and the owner can easily purchase a new Set of valves and match them to the seats by valve grinding. 2 Valve grinding is carried out as follows: Smear a trace of coarse carborundum paste on the seat face and apply a suction grinder taci to the valve head. With semi-rotary motion, grind the valve head to its seat, lifting the valve occasionally to redistribute the grinding paste. When a dull matt even surface finish is produced on both the valve seat and the valve, then wipe off the paste and repeat the process with fine carborundum paste, lifting and

Rockers and rocker shaft — examination and renovation

Remove the threaded plug from the end of the rocker shaft with a screwdriver and thoroughly clean out the shaft. As it acts as the oil passage for the valve gear also, ensure the oil holes in it are quite clear after having cleaned them out. Check the shaft for straightness by rolling it on the bench. It is most unlikely that it will deviate from normal, but if it does, then a judicious attempt must be made to straighten it. If this is not successful, purchase a new shaft. The surface of the shaft should be free from any worn ridges caused by the rocker arms. If any wear is present, renew the snaft. Wear is only likely to have occurred if the rocker shaft oi! holes have become blocked. Check the rocker arms for wear of the rocker bushes, for wear at the rocker arm face which bears on the valve stem, and for wear of the adjusting ball ended screws. Wear in the rocker arm bush can be checked by gripping the rocker arm tip and holding the rocker arm in place on the shaft, noting if there is any lateral rocker arm shake. tf shake is present, and the arms are very loose on the shaft, a new bush or rocker arm must be fitted. Check the tip of the rocker arm where it bears on the valve head for cracking or serious wear on the case hardening. !f none is present, re-use the rocker arm. Check the lower half of the ball on the end of the rocker arm adjusting screw. On high performance engines, wear on the ball and top of the pushrod is easily noted by the unworn ‘pip’ which fits in the small central oil hole on the ball. The larger this ‘pip’, the more wear has taken place to both the ball and the pushrod. Check the pushrods for straightness by rolling them on the bench. Renew any that are bent.

36

Tappets — examination and renovation

Examine the bearing surface of the tappets which lie on the camshaft. Any indentation in this surface, or any cracks, indicate serious wear and the tappets should be renewed. Thoroughly clean them out, removing all traces of sludge. It is most unlikely that the sides of the tappets will prove worn, but if they are a very loose fit in their bores and can

be rocked

readily, they should

be exchanged

for

new units. It is very unusual to find any wear in the tappets, and any wear present is likely to occur only at very high mileages.

turning the valve to redistribute the paste as before. A light spring placed under the valve head will greatly ease this operation. When a

37

smooth unbroken ring of light grey matt finish is produced, on both valve and valve seat faces, the grinding operation is completed. 3 Scrape away all carbon from the valve head and the valve stem. Carefully clean away every trace of grinding compound, taking care to leave none in the ports or in the valve guides. Clean the valves and valve seats with a paraffin soaked rag, then with a clean rag, and finally, if an air line is available, blow the valves, valve guides and valve

If the teeth on the flywheel starter ring are badly worn, or if some are missing, then it will be necessary to remove the ring. This is achieved by splitting the ring with a cold chisel. The greatest care should be taken not to damage the flywheel during this process. It is

ports clean.

Flywheel starter ring — examination and renovation

sometimes advantageous to drill a j in hole at the intersection point of two teeth, and to strike this point with the cold chisel. To fit a new ring, heat it gently and evenly with an oxyacetylene flame until a temperature of 200° C maximum is reached. This is

Chapter 1 Engine indicated by a light metallic blue surface colour. With the ring at this temperature, fit it to the flywheel with the front of the teeth facing the flywheel register. The ring should be tapped gently down onto its

register and left to cool naturally when the shrinkage of the metal on cooling will ensure that it is a secure and permanent fit. Great care must be taken not to overheat the ring, as if this happens the temper of the ring will be lost. A safer method is to place the ring in an oil bath and heat the oil to 200° C maximum. A maximum gap of 0.025 in (0.635 mm) is tolerable between the ring gear and the flywheel face around

the

circumference.

Ring

gear

eccentricity

must

not

exceed

0.010 in (0.254 mm).

38

Flywheel — examination and renovation

If the flywheel clutch face is déeply scored, a new flywheel should be obtained. !t is possible for the surface to be skimmed using a lathe. The maximum allowable flywheel face run-out relative to the spigot face is 0.002 in (0.051 mm) at a radius of 3 in (76.2 mm).

39

Oil pump — examination and renovation

Thoroughly clean all the component parts in petrol, then check the rotor endfloat and lobe clearances in the following manner: 1 Position the rotors in the pump and place the straight edge of a steel ruler across the joint face of the pump. Measure the gap between the bottom of the straight edge and the top of the rotors with a feeler gauge. If the measurement exceeds 0.004 in (0.102 mm) then check the lobe clearances as described in the following paragraphs. if the lobe clearances are correct, then lap the joint face on a sheet of plate glass (photo). 2 Measure with a feeler gauge the gap between the inner and outer rotors. It should not be more than 0.010 in (0.254 mm) (photo). 3 Then measure the gap between the outer rotor and the side of the pump body which should not exceed 0.008 in (0.203mm). It is essential to renew the pump if the measurements are outside these figures. It can be safely assumed that at any major reconditioning the pump

27

carbon entering the cooling system and damaging the water pump. There are two schools of thought as to how much carbon should be removed from the piston crown. One school recommends that a ring of carbon should be left around the edge of the piston and on the cylinder bore wall as an aid to low oil consumption. Although this is probably true for older engines with worn bores, on newer engines the thought of the second school can be applied, which is that for effective decarbonisation, all traces of carbon should be removed. If all traces of carbon are to be removed, press a little grease into the gap between the cylinder walls and the two pistons which are to be worked on. With a blunt scraper, carefully scrape away the carbon from the piston crown, taking great care not to scratch the aluminium. Also scrape away the carbon from the surrounding lip of the cylinder wall. When all carbon has been removed, scrape away all the grease which will now be contaminated with carbon particles, taking care not to press any into the bores. To assist prevention of carbon build-up, the piston crown can be polished with a metal polish such as Brasso. Remove the rags or masking tape from the other two cylinders, and turn the crankshaft so that the two pistons which were at the bottom are now at the top. Place rag or masking tape in the cylinders which have been decarbonised and proceed as just described. If a ring of carbon is going to be left round the piston, this can be helped by inserting an old piston ring into the top of the bore to rest on the piston and ensure that carbon is not accidentally removed. Check that there are no particles of carbon in the cylinder bores. Decarbonising is now complete.

41

Valve guides — examination and renovation

Examine the valve guides internally for wear. If the valves are a very loose fit in the guides and there is the slightest suspicion of lateral rocking using a new valve, then new guides will have to be fitted. If the valve guides have been removed compare them internally by visual inspection with a new guide as well as testing them for rocking with a new valve. The valve guide height above the cylinder head should be 0.75 in (19.05 mm).

will need renewal (photo).

40

Cylinder head — decarbonisation

With the cylinder head off, carefully remove with a wire brush and blunt scraper al! traces of carbon deposits from the combustion spaces and the ports. The valve head stems and valve guides should also be freed from any carbon deposits. Wash the combustion spaces and ports down with petrol and scrape the cylinder head surface free of any foreign matter with the side of a steel rule, or a similar article. Clean the pistons and top of the cylinder bores. If the pistons are still in the block, then it is essential that great care is taken to ensure that no carbon gets into the cylinder bores as this could scratch the cylinder walls or cause damage to the piston and rings. To ensure this does not happen, first turn the crankshaft so that two of the pistons are at the top of their bores. Stuff rag into the other two bores, or seal them off with paper and masking tape. The waterways should also be covered with small pieces of masking tape to prevent particles of

42

Sump —- examination and renovation

1 stiff 2 3

It is essential to thoroughly clean out the sump with petrol and a brush. Scrane all traces of the old sump gasket from the flange. Examine the sump for cracks, splits or any sign of oil leakage.

43

Engine reassembly — general

1 To ensure maximum life with minimum engine, not only must everything be correctly parts must be spotlessly clean, all the oilways washers and spring washers must always be

and

all bearing

and

other

working

surfaces

trouble from a rebuilt assembled, but all the must be clear, locking fitted where indicated,

must

be

thoroughly

lubricated during assembly. Before assembly begins, renew any bolts or studs the threads of which are in any way damaged, and whenever possible, use new spring washers.

Yo

39.1 Measuring rotor end clearance

39.2

Measuring

clearance

the

inner

to outer

rotor

39.3

Measuring

clearance

outer

rotor

to

body

28

Chapter 1 Engine

i

2

Check the core plugs for signs of weeping and always renew the

plug at the front of the engine as it is normally covered by the engine endplate.

3 Drive a punch through the centre of the core plug. 4 Using the punch asa lever, lift out the old core plug. 5 Thoroughly clean the core plug orifice and, using a small diameter headed hammer as an expander, firmly tap a new core plug in place, convex side facing out. 6 Apart from normal tools, a supply of clean rag, an oil can filled with engine oil (an empty plastic detergent bottle thoroughly cleaned and washed out, will invariably do just as well), a new supply of assorted spring washers, a set of new gaskets and preferably a torque wrench, should be collected together.

with, but the gudgeon pins should be fitted on the basis of selective assembly. Because aluminium alloy, when hot, expands more than steel, the 2 gudgeon pin may be a very tight fit in the piston when cold. To avoid

damage to the piston, it is best to heat it in boiling water when the pin will slide in easily. 3 Lay the correct piston adjacent to each connecting rod and remember that the same rod and piston must go back into the same bore. If new pistons are being used, it is only necessary to ensure that the right connecting rod is placed in each bore (photo). 4 Fit a gudgeon pin circlip in position at one end of the gudgeon pin hole in the piston. 5 Locate the connecting rod in the piston with the arrow on the

piston crown towards the front of the engine, ie. the timing cover end, and the connecting

44

rod cap towards

the camshaft side of the engine

(photo).

Crankshaft -— refitting

Ensure that the crankcase is thoroughly clean and that all oilways are clear. A thin twist drill or a nylon pipe cleaner is useful for cleaning them out. If possible, blow them out with compressed air. Treat the crankshaft in the same manner and then inject engine oil into the crankshaft oilways. Commence work on rebuilding the engine by refitting the crankshaft and main bearings: 1 If the old main bearing shells are to be refitted (it is false economy to do so unless they are virtually new), fit the three upper halves of the main bearing shells to their location in the crankcase, after wiping the locations ciean (photo). 2 Note that at the back of each bearing is a tab which engages in the locating grooves in either the crankcase or the main bearing cap housings. 3 If new bearings are being fitted, carefully clean away all traces of the protective grease with which they are coated. 4 With the three upper bearing shells securely in place, wipe the lower bearing cap housings and fit the three lower shell bearings to their caps, ensuring that the right shell goes into the right cap if the old bearings are being refitted (photo). 5 Wipe the recesses either side of the rear main bearing which locates the thrust washers. Smear some grease onto the thrust washers and place the upper halves in position (photo). 6 Note the milled faces of the thrust washers face outwards as shown in the photo 44.5. 7 Generously lubricate the crankshaft journals and the upper and lower main bearing shells. 8 Carefully lower the crankshaft into position (photo). 9 Fit the main bearing caps in position ensuring they locate correctly. The mating surfaces must be spotlessly clean or the caps will not seat correctly. As the bearing caps were assembled to the cylinder block and then line-bored during manufacture, it is essential that they are returned to the same positions from which they were removed (photo). 10 Refit the main bearing cap bolts and washers and tighten the bolts to a torque wrench setting of 65 Ibf ft (9 kgf m) (photo). 11 Test the crankshaft for freedom of rotation. Should it be stiff to turn or possess high spots, a most careful inspection must be made, preferably by a qualified mechanic, with a micrometer to get to the root of the trouble. It is very seldom that any trouble of this nature will be experienced when fitting the crankshaft. ; 12 Check the crankshaft endfloat with a feeler gauge measuring the longitudinal movement between the crankshaft and the rear main bearing cap. Endfloat should be between 0.004 to 0.008 in (0.102 to 0.203 mm). If endfloat is excessive, oversize thrust washers can be

fitted (photo). 13 The sealing block may next be fitted over the front main bearing

6 Slide the gudgeon pin in through the hole in the piston and through the connecting rod little end, until it rests against the previously fitted circlip. Note: That the pin should be a push fit. 7 Fit the second circlip in position. Repeat this procedure for all four pistons and connecting rods.

8 Where special oil control pistons are being fitted, should the position of the top ring be the same as the position of the top ring on the old piston, ensure that a groove has been machined on the top of the new ring so no fouling occurs between the unworn portion at the top of the bore and the piston ring, when the latter is at the top of its stroke.

46

Piston rings — refitting

1 Check that the piston ring grooves and oilways are thoroughly clean and unblocked. Piston rings must always be fitted over the head of the piston and never from the bottom. 2 The easiest method to use when fitting rings, is to wrap a 0.020 feeler gauge round the top of the piston and place tne rings one at a time, starting with the bottom oil control ring, over the feeler gauge. 3 The feeler gauge, complete with ring, can then be slid down the piston over the other piston ring grooves until the correct groove is reached. The piston ring is then slid gently off the feeler gauge into the groove. 4 An alternative method is to fit the rings by holding them slightly open with the thumbs and both index fingers. This method requires a steady hand and great care as it is easy to open the ring too much and break it.

47

Pistons — refitting

The pistons, complete with connecting cylinder bore in the following manner:

rods can be fitted to the

1 With a wad of clean rag, wipe the cylinder bores clean. 2 The pistons, complete with connecting rods, are fitted to their bores from the top of the cylinder block. 3 Before each piston is inserted make sure that the piston ring gaps are apart from each other to ensure a gas tight joint. Endeavour to avoid a gap on the thrust side of the cylinder bore. 4 Aseach piston is inserted into its bore, ensure that it is the correct piston/connecting rod assembly for that particular bore, that the connecting rod is the correct way round, and also that the front of the piston is towards the front of the bore, ie. towards the front of the

engine. An arrow (thus >) points to the front of the piston. The connecting rod cap should be towards the camshaft side of the engine. 5

Lubricate the piston before inserting into the bore.

cap. Smear the ends of the block with jointing compound and fit the block in place (photo). Fit the securing screws but do not tighten fully. Fit new wedge seals at each end and line up the front face of the block with the front of the cylinder block. Tighten the screws fully and cut

6

The piston will only slide into the bore as far as the oil control ring.

the wedge seals flush with the crankcase flange (photo).

hammer (photo).

It is then

necessary

(photo). 7

to compress

the

piston

rings

using

Gently push the piston into the bore with the wooden

a clamp

handle of a

eee 45

Pistons and connecting rods — reassembly

1

If the same

pistons are being used, then they must

be mated to

the same connecting rod with the same gudgeon pin. If new pistons are being fitted, it does not matter which connecting rod they are used

48 Connecting rods to crankshaft — reassembly —————————— eee 1 Wipe clean the connecting rod half of the big-end bearing cap and the underside of the shell bearing and fit the shell bearing in position with its locating tongue engaged with the corresponding rod.

aS

44.1 Fitting a crankcase bearing

44.5 Crankshaft thrust washer

«

44.10 bolts

44.12 Measuring crankshaft endfloat

45.3

Crankshaft

cylinder

rod identification,

Tightening

the

main

44.13b Crankshaft sealing wedge flush with casting

No.

3

45.5 Arrow on piston crown

bearing

cap

block

and

47.6 Piston ring clamp fitted to piston

SA

48.4 Location of bearing tongue in bearing

48.6 Tightening a connecting rod bolt

cap

w

49.2 Inserting the camshaft

49.7 Camshaft locating plate and bolts

50.2 Crankshaft Woodruff key

50.12 Bent rod holding chain tensioner

50.5 Timing marks on centre line between shafts

50.13 Fitting the timing chain cover

Chapter 1 Engine

31

2 If the bearings are nearly new and are being refitted, then ensure they are refitted in their correct locations on the correct rods. 3 Generously lubricate the crankpin journals with engine oil, and turn the crankshaft so that the crankpin is in the most advantageous position for the connecting rod to be drawn onto it. 4 Wipe clean the connecting rod bearing cap and back of the shell bearings and fit the shell bearing in position, ensuring that the locating tongue at the back of the bearing engages with the locating groove in

the connecting rod cap (photo). 5 Generously lubricate the shell bearing and offer up the connecting rod bearing cap to the connecting rod. 6 Fit the connecting rod bolts and tighten them to a torque wrench setting of 45 Ibf ft (6.2 kgf m) (photo). 7 When all the connecting rods have been fitted, rotate the crankshaft to check that everything is free and that there are no high spots

causing binding (photo).

49

Camshaft and front endplate — refitting

1 Wipe the camshaft bearing generously with engine oil.

journals

clean

and

lubricate

them

2 Insert the camshaft into the crankcase gently, taking care not to damage the camshaft bearings with the cams (photo). 3 Fit a new gasket over the front of the cylinder block using the dowel to locate it correctly. 4 Carefully fit the front endplate aligning it with the dowel (photo). 5 Fit the one securing bolt located immediately above the crankshaft nose. 6 Refit the camshaft locating plate. 7 Tighten the two camshaft locating plate securing bolts and spring washers (photo).

Fig. 1.4 Timing cover showing

position of screws,

bolts and nut

(Sec. 50) 12 Lubricate the front cover oil seal, fit a new gasket in place on the endplate and fit the cover at an angle so as to catch the spring tensioner against the side of the chain. Alternatively, it can be hooked

back using a piece of bent rod (photo). 13

Swing

the cover

into its correct

position and insert one or two

screws fingertight (photo). 50

Timing gears, chain tensioner and cover — refitting

1 Place the gearwheel in position without the timing chain, and place the straight edge of a steel rule from the side of the camshaft gear teeth to the crankshaft gearwheel, and measure the gap (if any) between the steel rule and the crankshaft gearwheel. If a gap exists, a suitable number of packing washers must be placed on the crankshaft nose to bring the crankshaft gearwheel onto the same plane as the camshaft gearwheel. 2 Fit the Woodruff key to the slot in the crankshaft nose (photo). 3. It is possible to fit the sprocket wheel the wrong way round on the camshaft. The best way of ensuring that the wheel is fitted the right way round is to make certain the two slot marks on the back of the wheel correspond with the slots on the rear surface of the camshaft.

4 Lay the camshaft gearwheels on a clean surface so that the two timing marks are adjacent to each other. Slip the timing chain over them and pull the gearwheels back into mesh with the chain so that the timing marks, although further apart, are still adjacent to each other. Note: The camshaft timing sprocket is provided with four holes which are equally spaced but are offset from a tooth centre. A halftooth adjustment is obtained by turning the sprocket 90° from its position. A quarter-tooth adjustment is obtained by turning the sprocket ‘back to front’ and a three-quarter-tooth variation by turning it on the bolt locations by 90° in this reverse position. 5 With the timing marks adjacent to each other, hold the gearwheels above the crankshaft and camshaft. Turn the camshaft and crankshaft so that the Woodruff key will enter the slot in the crankshaft gearwheel, and the camshaft gearwheel is in the correct position rela-

tive to the camshaft (photo). 6

Fit the timing chain and gearwheel

assembly

14 Refit the five screws, six bolts and one nut that secure the cover. Fig. 1.4 gives the position of these items. Do not tighten at this stage. 15 Insert the crankshaft pulley over the Woodruff key and through the seal. 16 Refit the pulley securing nut and tighten to a torque of 90 to 100

Ibf ft (12.4 to 13.8 kgf m). 17 Tighten the screws, bolts and nut that secure the timing Cover.

51

—

Valves and valve springs — reassembly

To refit the valves and valve springs to the cylinder head proceed as follows: 1 Rest the cylinder head on its side. 2 Fit each valve and valve spring in turn, wiping down and lubricating each stem as it is inserted into the same valve guide from which it was removed (photo). 3 Build up each valve assembly by first fitting the lower collar (photo).

4

Fit the valve springs (photo).

5 Move the cylinder head towards the edge of the work bench if it is facing downwards, and slide it partially over the edge of the bench so as to fit the bottom half of a valve spring compressor to the valve head. Slide the upper collar over the valve stem. 6 With the base of the valve compressor on the valve head, compress the valve spring until the collets can be slipped into place in the collet grooves. Gently release the compressor (photos). 7 Repeat this procedure until all eight valves and valve springs are fitted.

onto the camshaft

and crankshaft, keeping the timing marks adjacent (photo 50.5) 7 Fit a new double tab washer in place on the camshaft gearwheel and fit the two retaining bolts to a torque wrench setting of 26 Ibf ft

52

Rocker shaft and tappets — reassembly

(3.59 kgf m).

1

Fit the

8 Bend up the tabs on the lockwasher. 9 The oil seal in the front of the timing cover should be renewed. To remove it, carefully prise it out with a screwdriver taking care not to damage the timing cover in the process. 10 Evenly press a new seal into the cover using a vice, ensuring that the seal lip is towards the crankshaft sprocket wheel. 11. Fit the oil thrower in place on the nose of the crankshaft making sure that the dished periphery is towards the cover.

rocker;

rear

secure

pedestal

in position

over

with

the

rocker

a Phillips

shaft

with

screw,

its associated

ensuring

that

it

engages with the rocker shaft. 2 Slide the rockers, pedestals, springs and spacers over the front end

of the shaft (Fig. 1.5). 3 When all is correctly assembled, fit the split pin to the front of the shaft and oil the components thoroughly. 4 Generously lubricate the tappets internally and externally, and insert them in the bores from which they were removed (photo).

Chaptery 1 Engine

32

51.3 Fitting a lower collar

51.6b Fitting the collets

51.6a Compressing a valve spring

Fig. 1.5 The component parts of the rocker shaft assembly (Sec. 52)

camshaft front bearing.

53

Cylinder head — refitting

1. Thoroughly clean the cylinder head block cylinder head studs using the double nut method.

face

then

refit the

4 Fit a new gasket in place. One side of the gasket is marked TOP and must be fitted with this side facing upwards (photo). 5 Generously lubricate each cylinder with engine oil.

Note that the two slightly longer studs must be fitted to the last

6 Ensure that the cylinder head face is perfectly clean and then lower the cylinder head into place, keeping it parallel to the block to

two holes towards the rear of the block on the right-hand side for the engine lifting lug (photo). 3. Apply a little jointing compound around the oil hole to the

avoid binding on any of the studs (photo). 7 With the head in place, lift the lifting eye over the two rear right hand studs (photo).

2

Chapter 1 Engine

33

ae)

53.6 Fitting the cylinder head

53.7 Cylinder head with lifting lug fitted

53.8 Tightening the cylinder head

8 Fit the cylinder head nuts and washers and tighten down the nuts half a turn at a time in order shown in Fig. 1.2 to a torque wrench

setting of 46 Ibf ft (6.4 kgf m) (photo). 9 Insert the pushrods into the block so the ball end rests in the tappet. Ensure the pushrods are refitted in the same order in which

they were removed (photo). 10 Then refit the rocker shaft assembly ensuring that the rocker arm

53.9 Cylinder head with pushrods fitted

the hexagonal locknut with a spanner while holding the ball pin against rotation with the screwdriver. Then, still pressing down with the screwdriver, insert a feeler gauge in the gap between the valve stem head and the rocker arm and adjust the ball pin until the feeler gauge will just move in and out without nipping. Still holding the ball pin in the correct position, tighten the locknut (photo).

balljoints seal in the pushrod cups. 11. Refit the four rocker pedestal nuts and plain washers and tighten them down evenly.

55

54

1 A lip-type crankshaft rear oil seal is used and is located in the rear seal housing. 2 Coat both sides of a new gasket with jointing compound and position the gasket on the crankcase joint face.

Rocker arms/valves — adjustment

1 The valve adjustments should be made with the engine cold. The importance of correct rocker arm/valve stem clearances cannot be overstressed as they vitally affect the performance of the engine. 2 If the clearances are set too open, the efficiency of the engine is reduced as the valves open late and close earlier than was intended. If,

on the other hand, the clearances are set too close, there is a danger tnat the stems will expand upon heating and not allow the valves to close properly. This will cause burning of the valve head and seat, and possible warping. 3. If the engine is in the car, to get at the rockers it is merely necessary to remove the two holding down studs from the rocker cover, and then to lift the rocker cover and gasket away. 4 |t is important that the clearance is set when the tappet of the valve being adjusted, is on the heel of the cam (ie. opposite the peak). This can be done by carrying out the adjustments in the following order, which also avoids turning the crankshaft more than necessary:

3 Press a new seal into the oil seal housing with the lip of the seal facing the crankshaft. Oil the seal and carefully fit the housing, making sure that the lip of the seal is not turned over. 4 Replace the housing bolts fingertight, turn the crankshaft over several times to centralise the seal and tighten the bolts down firmly. The top bolt must have a copper washer under its head (photo). 5 Fit a new input shaft bush into the hole in the centre of the crank-

shaft (photo).

5

The correct

valve clearance

Valves fully open 8 and6é 4 and7 7 and3 5 and2

of 0.010

in is obtained by slackening

;

6 No gasket is fitted between the endplate and the cylinder block. Fit the endplate in position and tighten down the securing bolts and washers (photo). 7 Make certain that the flange of the flywheel and crankshaft are perfectly clean, and offer up the flywheel to the end of the crankshaft. Ensure that the dowel enters the locating hole in the flywheel.

8 Refit the four bolts and lockwashers (if fitted). Tighten down the four retaining bolts in a diagonal manner to a torque wrench setting of

4O Ibf ft (5.5 kgf m). Bend over the lockwasher tabs (photo). 9

Adjust valves 1 and3 § and2 8 and6 4 and/7

Crankshaft rear seal, housing, endplate and flywheel — refitting

Smear

the crankshaft

spigot bush

with a small

quantity of zinc

oxide grease.

56

Oil pump -— refitting

1

Wipe the mating faces of the oil pump and crankcase, and fit the

54.5 Adjusting the valve clearances

55.4 Copper washer on top bolt of oil seal

55.5 Crankshaft bush

housing

"

=

56.3 Fitting the oil pump cover

58.3 Fitting the distributor boss

58.2a Insert the gear with the slot in this position ...

58.2b ... it will engage with the gear and turn to this position

58.5 Fitting the distributor — clamping plate bolt arrowed

59.1 Fitting the rocker cover

Chapter 1 Engine

a

eee

35

pump and driveshaft. If the drivegear shaft is fitted, ensure the oil pump driveshaft engages it correctly. 2 Prime the pump to preclude any possibility of oil starvation when the engine starts.

between the underside of the housing flange and the block and subtract this latter figure from the former to determine the endfloat with the standard gasket.

3 Refit the cover to the pump and tighten down the three securing bolts and washers (photo). 4 Fit the pick-up strainer to the pump, if not previously fitted, and

in the cap which carries the lead to No 1 cylinder, and fit the distributor to the distributor housing. The lip on the distributor should mate perfectly with the slot in the distributor driveshaft. Fit the bolt whichs the distributor clamp plate to the housing (photo). 6 Tighten down the two nuts and washers which hold the distributor housing in place. 7 \lf the clamp bolt on the clamping plate was not previously loosened and the distributor body was not turned in the clamping plate, then the ignition timing will be as before. If the clamping bolt has been loosened, then it will be necessary to re-time the ignition as described in Chapter 4.

ensure the locknut is secure.

57

Sump - refitting

1 After the sump has been thoroughly cleaned, scrape all traces of the old sump gasket from the sump and crankcase flanges, fit a new gasket in place and then refit the sump (photo). 2 Insert and tighten down the sump bolts and washers remembering to fit the longer bolts at the rear of the sump, where they mate with the

holes in the oil seal housing.

58

to set the distributor drive correctly as otherwise

the ignition timing will be totally incorrect. It is easy to set the distributor drive in apparently the right position, but in fact exactly 180° out, by omitting to select the correct cylinder which must not only be at TDC but must also be on its firing stroke with both valves closed. The distributor should, therefore, not be fitted until the cylinder head is in position and the valves can be observed. Alternatively, if the timing cover has not been replaced, the distributor drive can be replaced when the marks on the timing wheels are adjacent to each other. 1

Rotate

the crankshaft

Turn the distributor so that the rotor arm is pointing to the terminal

59

Distributor and distributor drive — refitting It is important

5

so that No

1 piston

is at TDC

and on its

Engine — final assembly

1 Fit a new rocker cover gasket and carefully fit the cover in place (photo). 2 Refit the washers over the rocker cover studs, ensuring that the sealing washer lies under the flat steel washer. Refit the rocker cover nuts. 3 Make sure the mating faces of the water pump body and cylinder head are clean and fit a new gasket holding it in position with a little jointing compound. 4 Place the water pump body in position on the cylinder head face. 5 Secure the water pump body with the three bolts and reconnect

the pipe union (photo). 6 Make sure that the mating faces of the water pump and body are clean and fit a new gasket to the water pump body. 7 Refit the water pump over the three studs (photo).

firing stroke. When No 1 piston is at TDC the inlet valve on No 4 cylinder is just opening and the exhaust valve closing. The notch on the pulley hub should be aligned with the 10 degree before graduation on the timing cover scale. 2 Insert the distributor drive into its housing (photo) so that when fully home, the slot in the top of the driveshaft is positioned with the larger segment facing downwards. Ensure that the slot is in line with the threaded hole for oil filter attachment (photo). The end of the shaft engages with a slot in the top of the oil pump rotor shaft. It may be necessary to turn the pump rotor shaft to allow the distributor drive to engage fully. 3. It is essential that between 0.003 and 0.007 in (0.076 and 0.178 mm) endfloat exists between the top side of the gear driven by the skew gear on the camshaft and the underside of the pedestal boss

Replace the three nuts and spring washers and tighten fully. Refit the starter motor into its aperture; replace the identical packing and shims that were removed on dismantling. 10 Secure the starter motor with the two nuts, bolts and spring washers. 11. The alternator should be refitted next. Position the alternator and fit the main mounting bolt assembly to the block (photo). 12 Fit the alternator adjustment bracket to the head. 13 Swing the alternator towards the head and fit the adjustment bolt assembly through the bracket and alternator.

(photo).

15 Refit the fuel pump using a new joint gasket, easing the rocker arm to the outside of the cam. 16 Secure the fuel pump with two nuts and spring washers. 17 Refer to Chapter 3 and refit the carburettor and inlet manifold. Reconnect the fuel line from the fuel pump to the carburettor installation (photos). 18 Smear a little engine oil onto the threads of a new oil filter and screw in the filter. 19 Fit new spark plugs, and the complete unit is now ready for refitting the clutch and gearbox (Chapters 5 and 6).

If the

same

components

are

being

used,

it will be safe to

assume that the endfloat is correct, but ensure the same number of packing washers are used (if any) and always fit a new gasket. 4 lf the drivegears are assembled without endfloat, wear on the crankshaft gearwheels, chain and distributor drivegear, will be very heavy. If new components are being fitted then cut a small notch in the outer edge of the distributor housing flange gasket and bolt the housing down firmly. Measure the thickness of the gasket with a feeler gauge placed in the notch. Then remove the distributor housing and gasket and replace the housing without the gasket. Measure the gap

8 9

14

Refit the fan belt. Adjust the tension until there is 2 in (19 mm) of

lateral movement at the mid-point position of the belt between the alternator pulley wheel and the crankshaft pulley wheel. Tighten the nuts.

=

59.5 Water pump pipe union

59.7 Fitting the water pump

59.11

Fitting the alternator pivot bolt

36

Chapter 1 Engine

59.17a Fitting the manifold ...

60

o) Water temperature cable p) Vacuum advance and retard pipe q) Battery

Engine - refitting Although the engine and gearbox can be refitted by one man anda

suitable winch, it is easier if two are present. One to lower the unit into

the engine compartment, and the other to guide the unit into position and to ensure that it does not foul anything. Generally speaking engine replacement is a reversal of the procedures used when removing the engine (see Sections 4 and 5) but one or two added tips may come in useful. 1 Ensure all the loose leads, cables etc., are tucked out of the way. If not, it is easy to trap one and cause much additional work after the engine is replaced. 2 Carefully lower the unit into position and then refit the following: a) b) c) d)

Engine mountings and gearbox mounting Propeller shaft to gearbox Clutch slave cylinder to its hausing, tightening the clamp bolt Speedometer cable

e) Gear change lever and linkage f) Multi-socket connector to alternator g) Oil pressure switch and cable h) Wires to coil and distributor i) Carburettor controls J) Air cleaner k) Exhaust manifold to downpipe !) Earth and starter motor cables m) Radiator and hoses n) Heater hoses

3.

Finally check that the drain taps are closed, and refill the cooling

system with water and the engine with the correct grade of oil.

61

Engine — initial start-up after overhaul or major repair

1 Make sure the battery if fully charged and that all lubricants, coolants and fuel are replenished. 2 If the fuel system has been dismantled, it will require several revolutions of the engine on the starter motor to get the petrol up to

the carburettor. 3 As soon as the engine fires and runs, keep it going at a fast tickover only (no faster) and bring it up to normal working temperature. 4 Asthe engine warms up, there will be odd smells and some smoke from parts getting hot and burning off oil deposits. Look for leaks of oil or water, which will be obvious if serious. Check also the clamp connections of the exhaust pipes to the manifolds.

5° When running temperature has been reached, adjust the idling speed as described in Chapter 3. 6 Stop the engine and wait a few minutes to see if any lubricant or coolant is dripping dbut when the engine is stationary. 7 Road test the car to check that the timing is correct and giving the necessary smoothness and power. Do not race the engine — if new bearings and/or pistons and rings have been fitted, it should be treated as a new engine and run in at reduced revolutions for 500 miles.

Chapter 1 Engine

a rr a a a

37

62 Fault diagnosis — engine ee

Symptom

Reason/s

ee

ee

Engine fails to turn over when starter switch is operated

Discharged or defective battery. Dirty or loose battery leads. Defective solenoid or starter switch. Loose or broken starter motor leads. Defective starter motor.

Engine spins, but does not start

Ignition components damp or wet.

-

Disconnected low tension lead. Dirty contact breaker. Faulty condenser. Faulty coil. No petrol, or petrol not reaching carburettor. Faulty fuel pump.

Too much choke, leading to wet plugs. Engine stops and will not re-start

Ignition failure. Fuel pump failure. No petrol in tank. Water in fuel system. Carburettor dashpot piston stuck.

Engine lacks power

Burnt out exhaust valve. Incorrect timing. Blown cylinder head gasket. Leaking carburettor gasket. Incorrect mixture. Blocked air intake, or dirty air filter.

Ignition automatic advance faulty. Excessive oil consumption

Engine noisy

Defective valve stem oil seals. Worn pistons and bores. Blocked engine breather. Incorrect valve clearances. Worn timing chain. . Worn distributor drive. Worn bearings.

ese

Chapter 2 Cooling system Contents

XGtiineeZe — GOMelali)

ear euebertingety alee

4

Fault diagnosis — cooling system

om omc oo nocs done ano0 ooocccn

2

Géneralidescription.

eis ciecde ote sis co arenas

Coline Sain — Clee)

neneies 3 Coolingisystennatilling’ sss sneer ice terencienette okt atin yf moon amas o cm ce Comm orncim—auteiive) sicacocnmoouoc 11 ...........+55: Fan belt — removal, refitting and adjustment 9 cs rele. « ota aerctectan Faniblades=atemovaland) retittingn .

= . ase

rees +-++ .........essere

ne

rere

eee

a teen

Header tank — removal and refitting ............+...+--++. Radiator — removal and refitting ...........+.-+++:++s02: Thermostat — removai, testing and refitting . «-..--.++++s+Water pump — removal and refitting .........-.-+++5+055

12

1 6 5 8 10

Specifications eee

Pressurised, no loss, pump circulated with fan cooling

Type of system Thermostat

Wax filled

180°F (82°C) normal 190°F (88°C) cold climate

Expansion tank EIGMCADeaLV DC Mma tote sions Gi eects ois she es. sMeucenerc lelMalena e Grates Filletaea PiloneSSUTC mm. crea uate eee epsech its,ie, caMellsi ce3,tte saa. “oie a, oie) opens

AC 13 Ibf/in? (0.91 kgf/cm?)

Fan blades 7

Number Diameter

System capacity including heater

114 in (292 mm) .....................

84 pints (4.83 litres)

Torque wrench settings

ibf ft

kgfm

Water elbow to water pump attachment .............500 0005: Water pump attachment (bolt) Water pump attachment (stud) Cyiinderblockidrainip|U Gimeaeestcn. ores aku \/awebawcite cits ciematto tae carare yore ie RACIAUOMAIXG) GHDOItS mmmemrp nena Glsnlekrdc (sineieae

,

2.5 Front hub grease cap removed, showing nut and split cotter

commencing

work,

a special

tool

(Fig.

11.4)

will be

necessary to compress the coil spring so that the dampers can be released from the spring. Due to the strong tension of the spring, do not attempt to remove the spring without a spring compressor. 2 Apply the handbrake firmly and chock the wheel on the opposite side of the car to that being worked upon. Remove the front wheel trim and slacken the wheel nuts. Jack up the car and place on axle stands.

17 2. 3 4 5

6

11.2 Exploded view of front wheel hub (Sec. 3) Hub grease cap Split pin

Locknut Washer Outer bearing Bearing track

7 8 9 10 771 12

Hub Bearing track Inner bearing Bearing shield Oilseal Brake disc

Chapter 11 Suspension and steering

155

Remove the roadwheel. 3 Support the weight of the front disc and hub assembly to prevent it dropping in the subsequent operations. 4 Undo and remove the nut and bolt that connects the bottom of the damper to the suspension upper wishbone fishplates. Slacken the two bolts securing the damper mounting plates to the wishbone and balljoint.

5 Undo and remove the three nuts with plain and spring washers from the top of the turret in the side of the engine compartment

(photo). 6

Lift away the front spring and damper from the wheel arch.

7 If it is necessary to separate the spring from the damper, take the assembly along to the local Leyland garage who will have the necessary equipment to do the work. Should, however, the special tool be available, follow the instructions in the subsequent paragraphs. 8 Using the press, compress as many coils as possible of the road spring, just enough to relieve the load from the damper top nuts.

9

Fig. 11.3 Front spring and damper (Sec. 4) 1 2 3 4 5

Locknut Full nut Cup washer Stem rubber Cap

6 7 8 9

Plate assembly Fixing bolts Spring Damper

Undo and remove the locknut, nut, washer, rubber bush and cap

from the top of the damper. 10 Very carefully release the load from the road spring and then lift away the parts from the press. : 11 Withdraw the damper from the upper spring plate and road spring. 12 Unless the car has completed a very high mileage, has been used under very arduous conditions or involved in an accident, it will not be necessary to renew the spring. If the car has shown signs of a list it nay well be that the spring requires renewal; your Leyland dealer will be able to tell you whether the spring is at fault and also to advise whether a chassis alignment check is required. If one spring is renewed the other one should be renewed also. 13 Inspect the damper for signs of a damaged or dented body, bent piston rod, slackened mounting flange or fluid leakage. If evident, a new damper should be fitted as it is not a repairable item. 14 If the damper appears to be mechanically sound, hold the unit vertically, and slowly extend and compress it approximately ten times through its full operating range. Resistance must be considerable and constant whilst being extended and compressed. It is well worth while

fitting a new rubber bush (Fig. 11.5) to the eye at the bottom of the damper because this can sometimes eliminate squeaks and knocks. A little rubber grease will ease the fitting of the bush. 15 Should there be no resistance, only slight resistance in one or both directions, excessive resistance, or a region of no resistance when the direction is reversed, a new damper must be obtained. 16 To reassemble the spring and damper, first fit the washers and rubber to the top of the damper. 17 Extend the damper and insert it into the road spring and upper spring plate. 18 Using the special spring compressor, compress the road spring sufficiently to enable the fitting of the damper attachment to the upper spring plate. 19 Refitting the spring and damper assembly is the reverse sequence to removal. It is however, important that before the bolt is fully

—

Fig. 11.4 Using the special tool to compress a coil spring (Sec. 4)

4.5 Front damper upper attachment nuts

Chapter 11 Suspension and steering

156

17 Fit the outer plain washer, upper rear wishbone arm (cranked end away from nuts) and inner plain washer to the fulcrum shaft. 18 Insert the fulcrum shaft into the rear of the wishbone bracket. 19 Fit the inner plain washer, upper front wishbone arm (cranked end towards rear arm), plain washer and Nyloc nut. Do not tighten the Nyloc nut at this stage. Note:/t is recommended

SPD Fig. 11.5 Sectional view of damper bush (Sec. 4) tightened, the vehicle is loaded by placing

150 Ibs (68 kg) on each

that the Nyloc nut is

renewed since it can easily be damaged during removal and would therefore give an incorrect ‘run-down’ torque when tightened /ater. 20 Fit the wishbone bracket and shim(s) to the subframe and secure with the four bolts and nuts. It is extremely important that the same shims that were removed are refitted, or the correct wheel camber will be lost. 21 Fit the lower wishbone to the wishbone bracket and secure with the bolt and nut. Do not tighten at this stage. 22 Engage the balljoint in the upper wishbone and insert the triangular plates. Fit the two bolts and nutswto the wishbone arms, olates, and balljoint stem. 23 Fit the lower end of the damper to the wishbone, and secure with the nut and bolt. 24 Tighten the three nuts and bolts securing the balljoint and damper to the wishbone. 25 Whatever was used to support the weight of the disc and hub should now be removed. 26 Fit the roadwheel and remove the axle stands which were used for support. 27 Now tighten the nut and bolt securing the lower wishbone to the

seat (the rear seat must be considered as two seats). Tighten the bolt

suspension bracket. 28 Tighten the Nyloc nut on the forward

securely.

shaft to 46 to 50 Ibf ft (5.23 to 6.77 kgf m).

end of the upper fulcrum

29 |f any new component has been fitted, it is recommended that the wheel camber angle is checked at a Leyland garage and reset if 5 Front suspension and refitment

upper wishbone

arms — removal,

rebushing

1. Apply the handbrake firmly and chock the wheels on the opposite side of the car to that to be worked upon. Remove the front wheel trim and slacken the wheel nuts. Jack up the car and support on axle stands. Remove the roadwheel. 2 Support the weight of the disc and hub. 3 Remove the two bolts which clamp the upper wishbone arms to the steering upper balljoint. 4 Release the bolt and nut securing the inner end of the lower wishbone to the wishbone bracket; ease the lower wishbone out ofthe bracket. 5 Detach the balljoint from the wishbone. 6 Remove the four nuts and bolts (three upper and one lower) that secure the wishbone bracket to the subfrarne. Withdraw the wishbone bracket and any packing shims that are fitted behind it. Carefully note exactly what shims are removed. This is vital, because they are used to set the wheel camber. 7 Remove the Nyloc nut and washer at the forward end of the upper wishbone fulcrum shaft, and withdraw the front wishbone arm and inner washer. 8 Withdraw the fulcrum shaft, rear wishbone arm and plain washers. 9 Inspect the rubber bushes for wear. If evident, new bushes will have to be fitted, and for this operation either a press or a large bench vice will be necessary.

10

Obtain a piece of tube with an internal diameter slightly larger

than the external diameter of the bush. Place it behind the bush and,

using a piece of rod slightly smaller in diameter than the bush outer diameter, push out the old bush. 11 Using coarse emery cloth, clean the eye of the suspension arm and

lubricate with rubber grease. 12 Place a bolt in the tube of the new rubber bush and press into position. 13 Inspect the wishbone bracket for fractures or evidence of corrosion, and check the fulcrum shaft for fractures, corrosion or score marks. Renew if damaged. 14 Dismantling and inspection of the balljoints is covered in Section 8.

15 Refitting the bracket and wishbones is essentially the reverse of dismantling, and is as follows. 16 Check the position and tightness of the two nuts on the end ofthe fulcrum shaft. They should be located on the shaft with one full thread projecting beyond the locknut. The locknut should be tightened to 46 to 50 Ibf ft (6.23 to 6.77 kgf m).

necessary.

6 Front suspension lower wishbone arm and radius rod removal, renewing the balljoint and rubber bushes, and refitting

—

1. Apply the handbrake firmly and chock the wheels on the opposite side of the car to that worked upon. Slacken the wheel nuts, jack-up the car and support on axle stands. Remove the roadwheel. 2 Support the weight of the disc and hub. 3 Disconnect the anti-roll bar, if fitted, from the attachment point on the subframe and radius rod on whichever side of the car you are working. Refer to the following Section, if necessary, for further information. 4 If it isnecessary to remove the radius rod, first take out the cotter, the nut, dished washer and outer rubber bush from the subframe end of the radius rod. Withdraw the radius rod complete with its inner rubber bush and flat washer. 5 Using a universal balljoint separator and suitable thrust pad, separate the lower wishbone arm from the steering arm. 6 Undo and remove the nut and bolt securing the radius arm to the lower wishbone arm. 7 Undo and remove the nut and bolt securing the lower wishbone arm to the lower wishbone bracket. 8 Withdraw the lower wishbone arm and take off the water shield and balljoint seal from the balljoint at the inner end. 9 Inspect the balljoint assembly for any tendency to seize and for any sloppiness. If either is present, the balijoint must be renewed. At the same time check the water shield and balljoint seal for wear and general deterioration. Any unserviceable or suspect parts should be renewed. 10 If it is found necessary to renew the balljoint assembly, it must be renewed as a complete item. 11 If the radius rod was removed previously, carefully examine the rubber bushes for wear and general deterioration. If the condition of the rubber bushes is unsatisfactory, or that of the plain and dished washers, they must be renewed. 12 When refitting the radius rod, first fit the flat washer with the radiused inner diameter towards the spigot, followed by the outer bush with the plain face towards the flat washer. Fit the radius rod to the subframe, the inner rubber bush to the radius rod (with the plain face towards the front of the car), and then the dished washer. 13 Fit the rear end of the radius rod to the lower wishbone, then fit the nut and cotter. If the cotter has been damaged in any way a new

157

Chapter 11 Suspension and steering

Fig. 11.6 Front suspension components

1

Lower wishbone arm

7

Coil spring

13 Nut

2

Mounting bracket

8

Wishbone bracket mounting bolts

14 Locknut

3

Bolts securing balljoint and damper

9

Fulcrum shaft

4 5

Balljoint Radius arm

10. Inner washer 11 Wishbone arm

6

Damper

72

15

Vertical link

16 Steering arm 17 Steering tie-rod

Outer washer

one must be fitted. 14 If the radius rod was not removed, the lower wishbone and antiroll bar can be refitted. This is the reverse procedure to removal, but do

not tighten the bolt and nut securing the wishbone to the inner bracket until all other components have been fitted, the car has been lowered to the ground and is resting on its wheels.

158

Chapter 11 Suspension and steering

a

7 Front anti-roll (Dolomite) 1

bar

—

removal,

rebushing

and

refitting

Apply the handbrake firmly and chock the rear wheels. Raise the

front of the car and support it securely on axle stands, or blocks. It is not necessary to remove the front roadwheels. 2 Remove the Nyloc nuts which secure the anti-roll bar to the radius

rods. 3 Remove the two bolts from each of the subframe fixings of the mounting brackets. The brackets can be removed if desired. 4 Remove the anti-roll bar links, complete with their spacers, from

the radius rods. 5 If the brackets have not been removed previously, they can now be removed with the links from the anti-roll bar. It may be necessary to grip the plain shank of the link stud in a vice to enable it to be pulled off the anti-roll bar. 6 If the rubbers

underneath the brackets have deteriorated, they must be cut from the anti-roll bar and one of the end links must be removed, so that new rubbers can be fitted. Clean the anti-roll bar carefully and lubricate it with rubber grease, or brake fluid, then slide the new rubbers into position. 7 Inspect the rubber bushes in the links and if they have deteriorated and are not satisfactory, renew them.

Fig. 11.8 Front anti-roll bar attachments (Sec. 7)

Chapter 11 Suspension and steering

159

EE

8 When refitting the anti-roll bar, just press the brackets on to the rubbers and then fit the assembly to the subframe loosely. 9 Fit the spacers to the radius rods and connect the anti-roll bar links. If the links were removed from the anti-roll bar they will need to be refitted and the ends of the anti-roll bar should be smeared with rubber grease to facilitate this. 10 Fit the Nyloc nuts to the anti-roll bar links and tighten them to a torque of 14 Ibf ft (2.0 kgf m). 11 Tighten the mounting brackets to the subframe. 12 Fit the wheels if they have been removed, then lower the car to the ground.

8 Front suspension vertical link upper balljoint — removal, overhaul and refitting 1. Apply the handbrake firmly and chock the rear wheels. Slacken the wheel nuts, jack the car and support it on an axle stand or blocks, then remove the roadwheel. 2 Support the vertical link and hub assembly so that the flexible brake hose cannot be strained. 3 Detach the hose support bracket from the vertical link.

4 Undo and remove the nut and plain washer securing the balljoint to the vertical link, then use a balljoint separator to release the balljoint pin from the vertical link. 5 Undo and remove the two nuts and bolts clamping the wishbone arms to the joint and remove the joint. 6 Check the endfloat, which should not exceed 0.004 in (0.102 mm). If endfloat is excessive, remove the gaiter clip, the gaiter and the internal circlip and carefully wash all the parts in petrol or paraffin. Dry them with a lintfree cloth and inspect them carefully for signs of corrosion, scoring, or pitting. Any defective parts, including the gaiters and gaiter clips, should be renewed. 7 (If it is necessary to remove the plastic socket, carefully, taking care not to damage the housing.

8

chisel

this out

If a new socket is being fitted, press it into the housing using the

ball. 9 Assemble the pin and the lower seat without any grease. 10 Fit the circlip and measure the balljoint endfloat. The bearing should rotate freely and the endfloat should not exceed 0.004 in

(0.102 mm). Select a suitable lower ball seat and shims to meet this requirement. Three sizes are available and shims of 0.005 in and 0.010

in (0.127

mm

and 0.254

mm)

enable this requirement to be

met. 11 Dismantle

the joint, lubricate with multi-purpose grease and reassemble. Ensure that the open end of the circlip is at right angles to the shank of the ball housing. 12 Partially pack the gaiter with grease, then fit the gaiter and its clip.

13 Fit a grease nipple to the hole in the plug (photo) and charge the assembly with multi-purpose grease, taking care not to over-fill it and burst the gaiter. Remove the grease nipple and refit the plug and washer (photo). 14

Complete the reassembly operations as a reversal of removal.

Fig. 11.9 Upper balljoint details (Sec. 8) 1 2 3 4

Rubber boot Circlip Balljoint Ball lower seat

5 Plug 6 Washer 7 Ball upper seat

9 Vertical link lower balljoint — removal, joint overhaul and refitting 1. Apply the handbrake fully and chock the wheels on the opposite side of the car to that to be worked upon. Slacken the wheel nuts, jack up the car and support on axle stands. Remove the roadwheel.

2

es

8.13a Hole for grease nipple

Undo and remove the nut and plain washer securing the steering

,

8.13b Plug and washer refitted

Chapter 11 Suspension and steering

160

—_ >

1

Fig. 1 2 3 4

rack outer balljoint to the steering arm 3 Using a universal balljoint separator and suitable thrust pad, separate the balljoint pin from the steering arm. 4 Undo and remove the two bolts and spring washers which secure the arm to the vertical link.

5

Separate the steering arm from the lower wishbone, first undoing

and removing the nut and spring washer, and then using a universal balljoint separator and suitable thrust block. 6 To dismantle the ballioint for inspection, take out the sealing cap, circlip, top cover, spring disc and ball upper seat. Wash all the parts thoroughly in petrol or paraffin and dry with a lint-free cloth. 7 Carefully inspect the parts for corrosion, scoring and pitting, and renew any which exhibit these symptoms. Also renew the gaiters and gaiter clips.

5

>

11.10 Lower bailjoint details (Sec. 9)

Rubber boot Bailljoint Ball upper seat Sealing cap

§ 6 7 8

acs

yes

&

|

Circlip Top cover Spring disc Lower ball seat

TIO TAA MA cals

8 If it is necessary to remove the lower socket, a suitable chisel can be used, but a good deal of care must be taken to prevent damage to

the housing. Fit a new socket with the elongation of the ball pin hole at right angles to the steering arm mounting face. This will place the two tags on a diameter which lies parallel to the mounting face. Insertion of the socket will be easily accomplished by using the ball to press it into the steering arm in a bench vice. Tap the end of the ball with the threads suitably protected to ensure that the socket seats fully. 9 Reassembly and refitting is now the reverse sequence to dismantling and removal. All joint components should be liberally coated with grease. The spring disc must be fitted with its outer tip upwards.

10

Rear hub assembly — removal and refitting

1 Chock the front wheels, jack-up the rear of the car and place on firmly based axle stands. 2 Remove the roadwheel. Apply the handbrake. 3. Undo and remove the halfshaft nut and washer. 4 Release the handbrake and back off the brake adjuster (refer to Chapter 9 for further information if necessary). Remove the two

countersunk

head screws

that retain the brake drum, then pull the

drum off.

Fig. 11.11 Section through rear wheel hub (Sec. 10)

5 Using a universal puller and suitable thrust block, pull the hub from the end of the axleshaft.

1 Halfshaft

5 Wheel nut

6

2 Inner oil seal

6 Hub

3 Bearing 4 Outer oil seal

7 Hub retaining nut and washer 8 Brake drum

Remove the axleshaft key.

7 Refitting the rear hub assembly is the reverse sequence to removal. The halfshaft nut must be tightened to the torque wrench setting given in the Specifications.

8 Refitting a rear hub oil seal is covered in Chapter 8 which details removal of halfshafts and their associated bearings and oil seals.

Chapter 11 Suspension and steering

161

dismantling could well result from the spring ‘flying’.

6

Either compress the spring with the special tool or fit the spring

‘keep’. Remove the locknut and plain nut securing the damper rod to the mounting flange. Then withdraw the mounting flange complete

with upper rubber bush, washers and spring insulating ring. This will

Fig. 11.12 Illustrating the correct method of tightening the rear nub retaining nut: this prevents any undue load being placed on

the crownwheel-and-pinion (Sec. 10)

11

leave the lower rubber bush and washers on the damper rod; withdraw these and then lift away the coiled spring (still compressed). 7 Inspect the damper for signs of damaged or dented body, bent piston rod, slackened mounting flange or fluid leakage. If evident, a new damper should be fitted as it is not a repairable item. 8 If the damper appears to be mechanically sound, hold the unit vertically, and slowly extend and compress it approximately ten times — through its full operating range. Resistance must be considerable and constant whilst being extended and compressed. It is well worth while fitting a new rubber bush to the eye at the bottom of the damper, as a worn bush sometimes causes quite a few squeaks and knocks. A little rubber grease will! ease the fitting of the bush. 9 Should there be no resistance, only slight resistance in one or both directions, excessive resistance, or a region of no resistance when the direction is reversed, a new damper must be fitted. 10 Unless the car has completed a very high mileage, has been used under very arduous conditions or involved in an accident, it will not be necessary to renew the spring. If the car has shown signs of a list it may well be that the spring requires renewal; your Leyland dealer will be able to tell you whether the spring is at fault and also advise whether a chassis alignment check is required. If one spring is renewed, the other one should be renewed also. 11 Refitting the parts should be carried out in the reverse sequence to removal. If the anti-roll bar was removed, and shims had originally been used between the clamping faces on the suspension arm, these must be refitted.

Rear damper — removal, inspection and refitting

1 Jack-up the rear of the car and support on firmly based axle stands located under the main longitudinal chassis members. Support the weight of the axle on the side from which the damper is to be removed. 2 Remove the four nuts and plain washers securing the damper upper mounting studs to the top of the rear spring turret, inside the boot (photo). 3 Release the nut and bolt securing the lower end of the damper to the rear suspension arm. 4 Remove the nut and bolt that secures the front end of the rear suspension arm to the body. Lower the rear suspension arm from its mounting bracket; this will provide sufficient access to withdraw the damper complete with coil spring, from its location. 5 lf it is considered necessary to separate the spring from the damper it is necessary to either obtain a special tool, ‘S4221A’ with adaptors 5 and 18, from a Leyland Agent, or use a spring ‘keep’. If these precautions are not followed, injury to the person doing the

12

Radius rod — removal and refitting

1.

Under normal

circumstances

it will not be necessary to remove

the radius arms except when the rubber bushes have worn. To remove the radius rod, jack-up the rear of the car and support on firmly based stands. Also support the weight of the rear suspension by placing a jack under the rear axle. Remove the roadwheels.

2 Undo and remove the front securing nut and bolt, and withdraw from the radius rod eye. Draw the radius rod from its mounting and recover the rubber bushing. 3. Now working at the rear of the radius rod, release the hairpin type cotter, remove the clamping nut and lift away the plain washer. Lift off the rear half of the rubber bushing. Draw the radius rod forwards and lift away from the underside of the car. Remove the second half of the rubber bushing. 4 Inspect the rubber bushes for damage and deterioration. If any is present it is essential that they are renewed; the same applies to the plain and dished washers. If new bushes are to be fitted a little rubber

grease will facilitate the operation — no other lubrication should be used. 5 Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal. The order of assembly of the washers and rubber bushes is shown in the illustration

(Fig.

13

11.13).

Rear suspension arm — removal and refitting

1 Jack-up the rear of the car, support the body side members on axle stands and place a jack under the rear axle. 2 Remove the bolt and nut securing the lower end of the damper to the suspension arm. 3 Remove the bolt and nut securing the forward end of the suspension arm to the body bracket.

4 Remove the bolt and nut securing the rear end of the suspension arm to the rear axle tube bracket. 5 Detach the suspension body bracket.

11.2 Rear damper upper attachment nuts

arm

from

the damper,

axle bracket

and

6 When refitting, engage the rear end of the suspension arm in the axle bracket and fit the retaining bolt and nut. 7 Engage the lower end of the damper in the suspension arm and fit the retaining bolt and nut. 8 Engage the front end of the suspension arm in the body bracket and fit tne retaining bolt and nut.

162

Chapter 11 Suspension and steering 9 Remove the jack from the axle, and lower the car to the ground. 10 Tighten the attachment bolts at the damper, axle bracket and body bracket.

14

Steering wheel — removal and refitting

1

Remove the two screws securing the steering wheel pad and lift

the pad off.

2 Remove the nut and washer securing the steering wheel to the steering mast. 3 Put mating marks on the steering wheel hub and boss so that the wheel can be refitted in exactly the same position on the splines. 4 Draw the steering wheel off its splines. 5 When refitting the wheel which has not had mating marks scribed on disassembly, put the roadwheels in the straight-ahead position and engage the steering wheel on the splines with the spokes of the wheel horizontal. 6 Refit the washer and nut, and tighten to a torque of 32 Ibf fi (4.4

kgf m). 7

Refit the steering wheel pad.

15

Rack-and-pinion steering gear — removal and refitting

1. Chock the rear wheels, apply the handbrake, jack-up the front of the car and support on firmly based stands. Additionally remove the

front roadwheel on the side of the car which is nearest to the steering column.

2

Fig. 11.13 Rear suspension components and ancillaries

Handbrake cable support bracket Handbrake cable Cable location point

9

Brake hose union

12 Radius rod to axle securing

Damper Suspension DAaAAWNH to axle

arm

connection

Damper lower anchorage

mounting

Suspension arm connection

Inset:

Radius rod connection body 70 Suspension arm 11 Radius rod spring pin

13 14 15 16 17

nut Washer Outer rubber bush

Inner rubber bush Dished washer+

Dished washer 718 Radius rod

Section through radius rod bushes

Undo the Nyloc nut securing the tie-rod ends to the steering arms.

Lift away the nut and plain washer. 3 Using a universai balljoint separator, detach the tie-rod ends from the steering arms.

to

4 Undo and remove the nuts, washers, U-bolts. and locating plates securing the steering rack assembly to the front subframe. 5 Mark the relative positions of the intermediate shaft coupling and the rack pinion shaft. 6 Remove the pinch bolt from the intermediate shaft lower flexible coupling. 7 Ease the rack forward to disengage the pinion shaft from the flexible coupling and withdraw the rack from the vehicle. 8 If the assembly is to be dismantled, remove all traces of road dirt or oil by washing in paraffin and wiping dry with a lint-free cloth, then refer to the following Section. 9 To refit the steering rack assembly first fit new rubber bushes and a new nylon damping plug. 10 Carefully position the rack in the subframe in a reverse manner to removal. 11 Engage the pinion shaft splines in the intermediate shaft flexible coupling, ensuring that the previously marked scribe-marks are aligned. If no scribe-marks are present it will be necessary to centralize the rack shaft, locate the rack in its fitted position and ensure that the steering wheel spokes are horizontal before engaging the pinion shaft in the flexible coupling. 12 Fit and tighten the pinch bolts in the flexible coupling, and check

that the rack mounting rubbers are correctly located. 13 Fit the bearer plate under the rack mounting rubber (not pinion side). 14 Fit the rack clamp brackets and U-bolts, then compress the rack rubbers ana tighten the U-bolts. 15 Refit the tie-rod ends to the steering arms and refit the roadwheel. Lower the car to the ground.

16 Set the front wheels in the straight-ahead position, and secure the steering couplings with the upper column and the steering wheel and direction indicator cancelling clip in the straight-ahead position. 17 As the front wheel alignment will probably have been disturbed, the car should be taken to the local Leyland garage to have the wheel alignment reset. This should be carried out as soon as possible, and is of particular importance after the steering gear has been dismantled.

a 16 Rack-and-pinion

steering

gear —

er dismantling, overhaul

and

reassembly

——— ee Fig.

11.14 Rear suspension arm bushes (Sec. 13)

1 With the exterior of the assembly clean, and free of dirt and oil, release the gaiter clips and slide both gaiters outwards.

Chapter 11 Suspension and steering

163

2 Slacken the locknuts and unscrew both tie-rod assemblies from the rack. 3 Withdraw the small coil spring from each end of the rack. 4 Bend up the tab washer tab, unscrew the sleeve nut and remove the tab washer, shims and thrust cap. Slacken the locknuts and unscrew the tie-rod ends from their tie-rods. 5 Remove the locknut, gaiters, clips and cap nut from each tie rod. 6 Undo and remove the locknuts. Unscrew the cap nut and remove the shims, spring and pressure pad from the housing. 7 Unscrew and withdraw the plug holding the pinion assembly to the rack housing. 8 Carefully detach the rubber O-ring from its groove in the retainer. Invert the plug and fit into the pinion shaft. Engage the two short bolts in the tapped holes in the plug and tighten to grip the pinion shaft. Using two screwdrivers, prise the pinion shaft clear of the housing. Next, remove the circlip securing the ball-race to the pinion shaft and

withdraw the ball-race (Figs.

11.16 and 11.19).

9 Finally, withdraw the rack from the tube. 10 Thoroughly wash all components and then inspect for wear or damage. Should the pinion bearings be worn, a complete new steering rack must be obtained. 11 Check the bush in the end of the rack tube for wear. If evident, it may be removed, using a suitable diameter drift; and a new one inserted using a bench vice to press it into position. 12 With all parts ready for reassembly, carefully insert the rack into the tube and refit the pinion. 13 Fit the pressure pad and cap nut to the rack tube. Tighten the plug to just remove all endfloat and, using feeler gauges, measure the clearance between the cap nut and housing faces. 14 Unscrew and remove the cap nut and pad. 15 Make up a shim pack equal to the cap/housing clearance previously determined plus 0.006 in (0.152 mm) nominal endfloat. 16 Pack the assembly with grease and assemble the cap nut, shim pack, spring and pad to the housing. Tighten the cap nut. 17 Obtain a small spring scale and a piece of metal bar about twelve inches (305 mm) long. Attach the metal bar to the pinion and, with the spring scale, measure the force required to rotate the pinion shaft at a radius of eight inches (203 mm) through three-quarters of a turn either side of the mid-position. This force must not exceed 2 Ibs (0.95 kg) and for the remainder of the rack travel, 3 Ibs (1.36 kg). 18 Should these figures be exceeded, adjust by adding or subtracting shims from beneath the cap nut. 19 Continue reassembly by sliding the cap nut over the tie-rod and insert the thrust cap into the cap nut. 20 Position the tab washer over the sleeve nut and screw this fully into the cap nut. 21 With the cap nut held in a vice, pull and push the tie-rod so as to estimate the approximate amount of ball lift. 22 Make-up a shim pack slightly thicker than the estimated ball lift and insert this between the thrust cap and the sleeve nut. 23 Add or remove shims to obtain the required 0.0005 to 0.003 in (0.0127 to 0.0762 mm) ball lift when the sleeve nut is firmly screwed into the cap nut. 24 Test the ball to make sure that it can now move freely in the joint. Should tightness occur at any point, increase the shim thickness sufficiently to overcome this. Shims are available in 0.002, 0.004 and

0.010 in (0.051, 0.102 and 0.254 mm) sizes. 25 When adjustment is correct, lock the assembly by bending the tabs of the tab washer over the sleeve nut and the cap nut.

26 27 the The

Repeat the above sequence for the second inner balljoint. Fit one locknut and spring to each end of the rack, and screw on tie-rod assemblies. Adjust the position of the tie-rod assemblies. distance between the inner and outer tie-ball joint centres should

be 93 in (233.4 mm). Tighten the two locknuts to a torque of 80 Ibf ft (11 kgf m). 28 Pack the ends of the rack shafts and tie-rod inner balljoints with clean grease, and fit and secure the gaiters. The unit is now ready for refitting to the vehicle as described in the previous Section.

Fig. 11.15 Disconnection points to remove rack-and-pinion steering gear (Sec. 15) 1 Tie-rod 2 U-bolt nuts 3 Rubber mountings

4 U-bolts 5 Intermediate shaft pinch bolts

ja 17 Outer balljoint assembly — inspection, removal and refitting Se 1 If the tie-rod outer balljoints are worn it will be necessary to renew the whole balljoint assembly as they cannot be dismantled and repaired. To remove a balljoint, free the balljoint shank from the steering arm and mark the position of the locknut on the tie-rod accurately

Fig. Nut, locking ballpin on rack Balljoint locknut Washer Gaiter assembly Outer balljoint assembly Locknut, balljoint to ball pin Ball pin Ball housing

Gaiter (rubber) DANAAAWH™ 710 Ball socket

11. Shim (0-002 inch) 12 Shim (0-004 inch} 13° Shim (0.010 inch) 14 Gaiter inner locking wire 715 Spring, inner balljoint

11.16 Rack-and-pinion steering gear components (Sec. Sleeve, adaptor Tab washer, locking ball housing to sleeve Locating plate Washer

Shim (0-004 inch) pinion adjusting Nut Plunger Spring plunger Screwed cap, retaining plunger Grease plug in screwed cap Pinion lower bush Grease nipple in screwed cap End cover

Housing

Note:

All shims are a selective-fit on assembly

16) Steering rack Gaiter securing clip

Gaiter (rubber) Gaiter securing clip Outer balljoint assembly Mounting rubber Clamp, rack-and-pinion housing Bush, rack tube Plug (fitted in housing) Pinien Pinion ball race Circlip O-ring Pinion end plug

165

Chapter 11 Suspension and steering

Fig. 11.18 Section through the pinion shaft and pressure pad (Sec.

Fig.

11.19 Removing the pinion shaft (Sec. 16)

16) to ensure

near

accurate

toe-in

on

reassembly.

A universal

balljoint

separator will be necessary for removing the shank from the steering arm. 2 Slacken off the balljoint locknut, and holding the tie-rod by its flat with a spanner, to prevent it from turning, unscrew

the complete ball

assembly from the rod. Refitting is a straightforward reversal of this process but it is very important to visit your local Leyland agent to ensure that toe-in is correct.

18

Steering column -— removal and refitting

1 2

Disconnect the battery as a safety measure. Disconnect the plug-in connectors for the ignition starter circuits

and for the horn/direction marking the respective

indicators/lights.

plugs and sockets

It is well worth

while

in order to facilitate refit-

ment. 3. Withdraw the ignition key and remove the three screws clamping the nacelle halves together; remove the nacelle. 4 Remove the pinch bolt which secures the intermediate shaft to the lower end of the steering column, working from the engine compartment.

Fig. 11.20 The steering column clamp (Sec. 18) 1 Clamp bracket bolt 2 Clamp

3 Spring 4 Bolt retaining pin

Chapter 11 Suspension and steering 166 Se pe) 5 6

Slacken the steering column adjusting nut. Using a pin punch, extract the clamp bolt retaining pin from the

bracket (Fig. 11.20). 7 Remove the clamp bracket bolt and wing nut, then take off the bracket by spreading the two halves apart at the top. Note the internal spring. 8 The steering column can now be withdrawn. Note the steel washer on the engine compartment side of the lower bush and the plastic washer on the interior side. 9 When reassembling, fit the steering column through the lower bush. Don’t forget the correct order for refitting the steel and plastic

washers. 10 With the roadwheels in the straight-ahead position and the steering wheel centralised, fit the splines on the steering column into the intermediate shaft. Fit the pinch bolt when it is correctly located. 11 Fit the clamping bracket to the steering column, making sure that

6 While the column is dismantled, thoroughly clean all the component parts. Besides checking the bearings, also check the column for damage (ie., cracks, damaged splines, etc) and distortion. Renew any defective parts.

7 When refitting the column, if a new lower bearing was fitted it should be greased and the spire washer fitted loosely at first. 8 Next tighten the tapered nut fully, ensuring that backlash is eliminated but that axial movement is freely obtainable. 9 Slide the column upwards into the housing, making sure that the upper bearing is correctly positioned. Fit the retaining washer and circlip at the upper end of the shaft, and load the assembly downwards.

the spring is properly located. 12 Fit the clamping bracket into the steering column support bracket and insert the clamp bolt, ensuring that the flats on the bolt head are properly located in the steering column support bracket. 13 Screw on the adjusting nut, check that the milled slot in the adjusting bolt is aligned with the retaining pin hole, then fit the pin. The pin should be flush with the surface of the clamp bracket and must not be a loose fit. A new pin should be used if it is not a firm fit in the hole. 14 The electrical connections can now be refitted and also the two halves of the nacelle. 15 Finally, adjust the steering column as required and reconnect the battery.

19

Steering column — dismantling, overhaul and reassembly

1

Remove the steering column as previously described. Also remove

the steering wheel and hub. 2 Remove the brackets which secure the switch clusters to the column, followed by the direction indicator trip cam. 3 Take off the circlip and washer which retain the steering mast upper bearing and carefully slide the upper column downwards from the housing. 4 If the upper ball-race shows any sign of rough running or excessive play, it can be prised out of the housing. If all is satisfactory it should be greased with a multi-purpose grease. 5 If the lower ball-race is satisfactory it can also be regreased; otherwise it will be necessary to remove the spire washer and tapered nut. A C-spanner will be required for the latter item and when replacing, it will be necessary to fit a new spire washer.

Fig. 11.21 The steering column upper bearing (Sec. 19) 1 Bearing 2 Circlip

=

Fig. 11.22 The steering column parts (Sec. 19) 1 Tapered nut

2 Shaft

3 Washer 4 Alignment holes

3 Spire washer 4 Lower bearing

Chapter 11 Suspension and steering

167

10 Carefully press the lower bearing into the housing fully and evenly, ensuring that the upper bearing does not move. 11 Move the spire washer into contact with the lower bearing until all the endfloat of the column is eliminated. 12 Fit the thrust washer to the lower end of the shaft and lightly stake it in position. 13 The rest of the reassembly procedure is the reverse. of removal.

20

Intermediate shaft — removal, inspection and refitting

1 The intermediate shaft is normally renewed when it is apparent that any play in the steering is not in the rack and pinion, or the balljoints, but is in the intermediate shaft universal joints. This can be detected by disconnecting the pinion shaft universal joint, and, with an assistant holding the steering wheel firmly, twisting the intermediate shaft in both directions and noting any excess play or knocks. 2 To remove the intermediate shaft, remove the upper and lower pinch bolts and nuts securing the intermediate shaft to the steering column and steering rack pinion. 3 Ease the sliding member of the steering column upwards, clear of the intermediate shaft, and then withdraw the intermediate shaft. 4 In order to remove the flexible coupling, it is necessary to remove the pinch bolt securing the coupling and pull it off the shaft. 5 Inspect the shaft for fractures or corrosion, and the universal joint and flexible couplings for excessive play or other evidence of deterioration. Fit new parts where necessary. 6 Reassembly is the reverse to removal. Remember to set the

roadwheels to the straight-ahead position, and with the steering wheel centralised,

connect

the

intermediate

shaft

universal

joint

to the

column and the flexible joint to the rack pinion.

21 Steering column lock and ignition switch — removal and refitting 1 Disconnect the battery. 2 Remove the ignition key from the steering column lock/ignition switch. 3 Remove the two halves of the nacelle after first removing the three fixing screws. 4 Centre-punch the tops of the shear-head screws which secure the steering lock to the column, then remove the screws by using a small chisel to turn them or by drilling them and using a suitable extractor (eg, an ‘Easiout’ extractor). 5 Disconnect the plug-in connector to the ignition switch, then remove the steering column lock. 6 Refitting the lock is a straightforward operation after aligning the lock with the mounting holes on the column. Tighten the shear head screws until the heads shear off. 7 The rest of the refitting operation is the reverse sequence to removal.

22

Front wheel alignment

1.

The front wheels are correctly aligned when they are turning in at

the front zero to 4 in (zero to 1.6 mm).

Fig. 11.23 The intermediate shaft (Sec. 20) 1 Pinch bolts 2 Pinch bolts correct.

3 Pinch bolts .

3. This is a job best left to your local Leyland garage, as accurate alignment requires the use of special equipment. If the wheels are not in alignment, tyre wear will be heavy and uneven, and the steering will be stiff and unresponsive.

23

Rear wheel alignment

It is important that the rear wheel alignment is always checked every time the rear suspension has been dismantled. To do this accurately, measuring equipment is necessary and will usually be found at Leyland garages. This check should be entrusted to them.

24

Front wheel camber — setting up

It is important that this

measurement is taken on a centre line drawn horizontally and parallel to the ground through the centre line of the hub. The exact point should be in the centre of the sidewall of the tyre and not on the wheel rim, which could be distorted and so give inaccurate readings.

The adjustment is effected by loosening the locknut on each tie2 rod balljoint and also slackening the rubber gaiter clip holding it to the tie-rod, both tie-rods being turned equally until the adjustment is

Apart from checking toe-in, the only other adjustment possible is the camber of the wheels. This is accomplished by removing or fitting shims behind the front suspension bracket. However, since this operation requires specialised measuring equipment, it is virtually

impossible for the home owner to do it himself with anything like the degree of accuracy that is required. For that reason we recommend that the operation be carried out by a Leyland agent.

See overleaf for ‘Fault diagnosis-suspension and steering’

168 25

Chapter 11 Suspension and steering Fault diagnosis — suspension and steering

Symptom

Reason/s

Steering feels vague, car wanders and ‘floats’ at speed

Tyre pressures uneven. Dampers worn.

Steering gear balljoints badly worn. Suspension geometry incorrect. Steering mechanism free-play excessive. Front suspension and rear suspension. alignment.

Stiff and heavy steering

Tyre pressures too low. No grease in steering gear. No grease in steering and suspension balljoints. Front wheel toe-in incorrect. Suspension geometry incorrect. Steering gear incorrectly adjusted too tightly. Steering column badly misaligned.

Wheel wobble and vibration

pick-up

Wheel nuts loose. Front wheels and tyres out-of-balance. Steering gear free play excessive. Steering balljoints badly worn. Hub bearings badly worn.

.

points

out

of

Chapter 12 Bodywork and underframe Contents Bonnet—removalanaretittingy susan) im wer cee eee Bonnet lock control cable — removal and refitting ............ Bonnet lock — removal and refitting ..................005 Boot lid lock and striker — removal and refitting ............. BOouid—iTemovaland retittinge ©. ee «1 eee eeene Bumpers: —removallandsentungun 1.9 6 aoa nee ee Door hinges (front and rear) — removal and refitting .......... Door rattles — tracing and rectification ................... Facia panel — removal and refitting (including renewal of

24 23 eZ. 26 25 oi) 10 if

speedometer cable and access toinstruments) ............. Front and rear seat — removal andrefitting ................ Front door—dismantling andreassembly ...............-4

airflow control cable — removal and refitting .......... 19 fan motor switch — removal and refitting ............ 21 unit and fan motor —removal andrefitting ........... 18 water valve — removal andrefitting ................ 20 Maintenance — bodywork and underframe ...............4. 2 Maintenance — upholstery andcarpets ............-..0003 Maintenance PVG Covenings emacs ick euorenen dene cate eee 4 Major subframe and body damage — general ............... 6 Minor body damage—epait) = S24 a ©) etc) eee 5 Rarcelishelfi=removaliandinetittingm 0c.) ornate ean nan 17 Rear door — dismantling and reassembly ...........-...0812 Reargoor— removalland)rerittimGuay-:sr-ne-et aeons reaemee meen tee )

Erontdoor—femoval'andretitting) 1... ea. Gearbox tunnel cover — removal and refitting

Windscreen glass — removal and refitting

16 is 11 > seas schon s 8 .............. 28

Heater Heater Heater Heater

Striker plate — removal, refitting and adjustment

............

13

.................

14

General description

ment. The 1500HL has additionally a tachometer, battery condition indicator and a clock. An air-mix heater control system is fitted and has a two-speed booster fan to provide additional airflow. ‘Eyeball’ outlets are fitted at each end of the facia, these being fed by ram air only.

renovations are necessary. Steam cleaning is available at many garages and is necessary for removal of the accumulation of oily grime which sometimes is allowed to cake thick in certain areas near the engine, gearbox and back axle. If steam cleaning facilities are not available, there are one or two excellent grease solvents available which can be brush applied. The dirt can then be simply hosed off. 4 After washing paintwork, wipe off with a chamois leather to give an unspotted clear finish. A coat of clear protective wax polish will give added protection against chemical pollutants in the air. If the paintwork sheen has dulled or oxidised, use a cleaner/polisher combination to restore the brilliance of the shine. This requires a little effort, but is usually necessary because regular washing has been neglected. Always check that the door and ventilator opening drain holes and pipes are completely clear so that water can be drained out. Bright work should be treated the same way as_ paintwork. Windscreens and windows can be kept clear of the smeary film which often appears, if a little ammonia is added to the water. If they are scratched, a good rub with a proprietary metal polish will often clear them. Never use any form of wax or other body or chromium polish on glass.

2

3

1.

General description

The body shell is similar to that which has been used previously on the 1300, 1500, Toledo and Dolomite, and consists of a monocoque shell, with a subframe to support the engine, gearbox and front suspension. The car is manufactured in four-door versions only, with toughened glass fitted to all windows and a laminated windscreen. A heated rear window is optional on the 1500TC and is a standard

fitment on the Dolomite range. Seats are upholstered in a brushed nylon material, the front seats being reclinable and fitted with head rests. There is a full width wood-veneered facia panel, a lockable glove box and a full width parcel shelf. The facia houses the speedometer, fuel and temperature gauges, and warning lights as standard equip-

Maintenance — bodywork and underframe

1 The general condition of a car's bodywork is the one thing that significantly affects its value. Maintenance is easy but needs to be regular. Neglect, particularly after minor damage, can lead quickly to further deterioration and costly repair bills. It is important also to keep watch on those parts of the car not immediately visible, for instance, the underframe, inside all the wheel arches and the lower part of the

engine compartment. 2 The basic maintenance routine for the bodywork is washing — preferably with a lot of water, from a hose. This will remove all the loose solids which may have stuck to the car. It is important to flush these off in such a way as to prevent grit from scratching the finish. The wheel arches and underframe need washing in the same way to remove any accumulated mud which will retain moisture and tend to encourage rust. Paradoxically enough, the best time to clean the underframe and wheel arches is in wet weather when the mud is thoroughly wet and soft. In very wet weather the underframe is usually cleaned of large accumulations automatically and this is a good time for inspection. 3. Periodically it is a good idea to have the whole of the underframe of the car steam cleaned, engine compartment included, so that a thorough inspection can be carried out to see what minor repairs and

Maintenance — upholstery and carpets

1 Mats and carpets should be brushed or vacuum cleaned regularly to keep them free of grit. If they are badly stained remove them from the car for scrubbing or sponging and make quite sure they are dry before refitting. Seats and interior trim panels can be kept clean by a wipe over with a damp cloth. If they do become stained (which can be more apparent on light coloured upholstery) use a little liquid detergent and a soft nail brush to scour the grime out of the grain of the material. Do not forget to keep the head lining clean in the same way as the upholstery. When using liquid cleaners inside the car do not over-wet the surfaces being cleaned. Excessive damp could get into the seams and padded interior causing stains, offensive odours or even rot. If the inside of the car gets wet accidentally it is worthwhile taking some trouble to dry it out properly, particularly where carpets are involved. Do not leave oil or electric heaters inside the car for this

purpose.

4

Maintenance — PVC coverings

PVC.

Plain soap and water If dirt is ingrained,

is all that is required to remove dirt from a soft nailbrush can be used. Under no

170

*Front seat headroom

A

in 38

cm 96-5

(Uncompressed) *Rear seat headroom

Front seat cushion depth Rear seat cushion depth

seat seat seat seat

squab height squab height cushion height cushion height between between

-1500

M

in 24-5

cm 62-2

-1500HL

M N

26 16-5

66-1 41-9

-1500

B

35-5

90-2

Luggage boot height — min.

N

12

30-5

-1500HL -1500 -1500HL -1500 -1500HL

B Cc C D D E F G H H

36 (7a 19 18 19 19-5 19-75 12 12 14

91-4 44.5 48-3 45.7 48.3 49-5 50-2 30-5 30-5 35-6

Luggage boot depth — max. Luggage boot depth — min. Luggage boot width *Front seat cushion width

6) O P Qi Q1 Q2 Q2 R

37 34-5 52-5 20-75 23 44.5 46-5 51

93-9 87-6

Ss

49.25

125-1

T U

51 49.25

129-5 125-1

Vv V Ww x iY.

48.75 48-5 96-6 54 62-5

123-8 123-1 245.4 137-2 158-8

Zz AA AB

162-2 30-75 17 53-2

412-2 78-1 43-2 135-2

-1500

-1500HL *Distance max. *Distance min.

set leg reach — min.

Luggage boot height — max.

(uncompressed)

Front Rear Front Rear

*Rear

seats —

I

ile

33-0

I

7

17-8

-1500 -1500HL

J J

19 19

48-3 48-3

1500 -1500HL

J J

13 10

33-0 25-4

seats —

*Steering wheel to squab — max. *Steering wheel to squab — min.

-1500HL *Front cushions overall -1500 width -1500HL *Rear cushion overall width Width between front doors (at waist) Width across rear seat Shoulder width over front seat Shoulder width over rear seat -1500 -1500HL Wheelbase Overall height max. unladen Overall width

-1500

K

6-5

16-5

Overall length Front door entry width Rear door entry width Track at front

-1500HL

K

9

22-9

Track at rear

*Front seat leg reach— max.

-1500

L

39

99-1

Kerbside weight (approx.)

-1500HL

L

38-5

97-8

*Front seat leg reach — min.

-1500

L

6 i6}

83-8

Maximum

*Rear seat leg reach— max.

-1500HL -1500 -1500HL

L M M

32-5 30:5 32

82-6 hi -5 81-3

Maximum roof rack load *Approximate

*Steering wheel to cushion — max.

-1500

towing

weight

133-4 52-7

58.4 113-0 118-1 129-5

49-9

126-7

-1500

2097 Ib

951 kg

-1500HL

2108 lb

956 kg

1680 Ib

762 kg

110 Ib

50 kg

Chapter 12 Bodywork and underframe

171

ooo

circumstances

use detergents, caustic soaps or spirit cleaners since

irreparable damage may result.

ee 5

Minor body damage - repair

The photographic sequence on pages 174 and 175 illustrates the operations detailed in the following sub-Sections.

Repair of minor scratches in the car’s bodywork If the scratch is very superficial, and does not penetrate to the metal of the bodywork, repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area of the scratch with a paintwork renovator, or a very fine cutting paste, to remove loose paint from the scratch and to clear the surrounding bodywork of wax polish. Rinse the area with clean water. Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using a thin paint brush, continue to apply thin layers of paint until the surface of the paint in the scratch is level with the surrounding paintwork. Allow the new paint at least two weeks to harden; then, blend it into the surrounding paintwork by rubbing the paintwork, in the scratch area, with a paintwork renovator, or a very fine cutting paste. Finally, apply wax polish. An alternative to painting over the scratch is to use a paint patch. Use the same preparation for the affected area; then simply pick a patch of a suitable size to cover the scratch completely. Hold the patch against the scratch and burnish its backing paper; the patch will adhere to the paintwork, freeing itself from the backing paper at the same time. Polish the affected area to blend the patch into the surrounding paintwork. Where the scratch has penetrated right through to

the metal of the bodywork, causing the metal to rust, a different repair technique is required. Remove any loose rust from the bottom of the scratch with a penknife, then apply rust inhibiting paint to prevent the formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber or nylon applicator, fill the scratch with bodystopper paste. If required, this paste can be mixed with cellulose thinners to provide a very thin paste, which is an ideal way of filling narrow scratches. Before the stopper-paste in the scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth cotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip the finger in cellulose thinners and then quickly sweep it across the surface of the stopper-paste in the scratch; this will ensure that the surface of the stopper-paste is slightly hollowed. The scratch can now be painted over as described earlier in this Section.

brush on a power drill. If these are not available a few sheets of abrasive paper will do the job just as effectively. With the paint removed you will be able to gauge the severity of the corrosion and therefore decide whether to renew the whole panel (if this is possible) or to repair the affected area. New body panels are not as expensive as most people think and it is often quicker and more satisfactory to fit a new panel than to attempt to repair large areas of corrosion. Remove all fittings from the affected area except those which will act as a guide to the original shape of the damaged bodywork (headlamp shells etc.,). Then, using tin snips or a hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and any other metal badly affected by corrosion. Hammer the edges of the hole inwards in order to create a slight depression for the filler paste. Wire brush the affected area to remove the powdery rust from the surface of the remaining metal. Paint the affected area with rust inhibiting paint; if the back of the rusted area is accessible treat this also. Before filling can take place it will be necessary to block the hole in some way. This can be achieved by the use of one of the following materials: Zinc gauze, Aluminium tape or Polyurethane foam. Zinc gauze is probably the best material to use for a large hole. Cut a piece to the approximate size and shape of the hole to be filled, then position it in the hole so that its edges are below the level of the surrounding bodywork. It can be retained in position by several blobs of filler paste around its periphery. Aluminium tape should be used for small or very narrow holes. Pull a piece ‘off the roll and

trim

it to the approximate

screwdriver or similar, to ensure that the tape is securely attached to the metal underneath. Polyurethane foam is best used where the hole is situated in a section of bodywork of complex shape, backed by a small box section (eg; where the sill panel meets the rear wheel arch — most cars). The usual mixing procedure for this foam is as follows: Put equal amounts of fluid from each of the two cans provided in the kit, into one container. Stir until the mixture begins to thicken, then quickly pour this mixture into the hole, and hold a piece of cardboard over the larger apertures. Almost immediately the polyurethane will begin to expand,

gushing out of any small holes left unblocked. When the foam hardens it can be cut back to just below the level of the surrounding bodywork

Repair of dents in the car’s bodywork

with a hacksaw blade.

When deep denting of the car’s bodywork has taken place, the first task is to pull the dent out, until the affected bodywork almost attains its original shape. There is little point in trying to restore the original shape completely, as the metal in the damaged area will have stretched on impact and cannot be reshaped fully to its original contour. It is better to bring the level of the dent up to a point which is

Bodywork repairs — filling and re-spraying

about 4 in (3 mm) below the level of the surrounding bodywork. In cases where the dent is very shallow anyway, it is not worth trying to pull it out at all. If the underside of the dent is accessible, it can be hammered out gently from behind, using a mallet with a wooden or plastic head. Whilst doing this, hold a suitable block of wood firmly against the impact from the hammer blows and thus prevent a large area of the bodywork from being ‘belled-out’. Should the dent be in a section of the bodywork which has a double skin or some other factor making it inaccessible from behind, a different technique is called for. Drill several small holes through the metal inside the dent area — particularly in the deeper sections. Then screw long self-tapping screws into the holes just sufficiently for them to gain a good purchase in the metal. Now the dent can be pulled out by pulling on the protruding heads of the screws with a pair of pliers. The next stage of the repair is the removal of the paint from the damaged area, and from an inch or so of the surrounding ‘sound’ bodywork. This is accomplished more easily by using a wire brush or abrasive pad on a power drill, although it can be done just as effectively by hand using sheets of abrasive paper. To complete the preparations for filling, score the surface of the bare metal with a screwdriver or the tang of a file, or alternatively, drill small holes in the affected area. This will provide a really good ‘key’ for the filler paste. To complete the repair see the Section of filling and re-spraying.

Repair of rust holes or gashes in the car's bodywork Remove all paint from the affected area and from an inch or so of the surrounding ‘sound’ bodywork, using an abrasive pad or a wire

size and shape

required, then pull off the backing paper (if used) and stick the tape over the hole; it can be overlapped if the thickness of one piece is insufficient. Burnish down the edges of the tape with the handle of a

Before using this Section, see the Sections on dent, deep scratch, rust hole, and gash repairs. Many types of bodyfiller are available, but generally speaking those proprietary kits which contain a tin of filler paste and a tube of resin hardener are best for this type of repair. A wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will be found invaluable for imparting a smooth and

well contoured finish to the surface of the filler. Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card or board — use the hardener sparingly (follow the maker's instructions on the packet) otherwise the filler will set very rapidly. Using the applicator, apply the filler paste to the prepared area; draw the applicator across the surface of the filler to achieve the correct contour and to level the filler surface. As soon as a contour that approximates the correct one is achieved, stop working the paste — if you carry on too long the paste will become sticky and begin to ‘pick up’ on the applicator. Continue to add thin layers of filler paste at twenty minute intervals until the level of the filler is just ‘proud’ of the surrounding bodywork. Once the filler has hardened, excess can be removed using a metal plane or file. From then on, progressively finer grades of abrasive paper should be used, starting with a 40 grade production paper and finishing with 400 grade ‘wet-or-dry’ paper. Always wrap the abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork, or wooden block — otherwise the

surface of the filler will not be completely flat. During the smoothing of the filler surface the ‘wet-or-dry’ paper should be periodically rinsed in water. This will ensure that a very smooth finish is imparted to the filler at the final stage. At this stage the ‘dent’ should be surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in turn should be encircled by the finely ‘feathered’ edge of the good paintwork. Rinse the repair area with clean water, until all of the dust produced by the rubbing-down operation has gone.

172

Chapter 12 Bodywork and underframe

Spray the whole repair area with a light coat of primer — this will show up any imperfections in the surface of the filler. Repair these imperfections with fresh filler paste or bodystopper, and once more smooth the surface with abrasive paper. If bodystopper is used, it can be mixed with cellulose thinners to form a really thin paste which is ideal for filling small holes. Repeat this spray and repair procedure until you are satisfied that the surface of the filler, and the feathered edge of the paintwork are perfect. Clean the repair area with clean water and allow to dry fully. The repair area is now ready for spraying. Paint spraying must be carried out in a warm, dry, windless and dust free atmosphere. This condition can be created artificially if you have access to a large indoor working area, but if you are forced to work in the open, you will have to pick your day very carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing the floor in the work area with water will ‘lay’ the dust which would otherwise be in the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined to one body panel, mask off the surrounding panels; this will help to minimise the effects of a slight mis-match in paint colour. Bodywork fittings (eg. chrome strips, door handles etc.,) will also need to be masked off. Use genuine masking tape and several thicknesses of newspaper for the masking operation. Before commencing to spray, agitate the aerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area (an old tin, or similar) until the technique is mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick coat of primer; the thickness should be built up using several thin layers of paint rather than one thick one. Using 400 grade ‘wet-or-dry’ paper, rub down the

surface of the primer until it is really smooth. While doing this, the work area should be thoroughly doused with water, and the ‘wet-anddry’ paper periodically rinsed in water. Allow to dry before spraying on more paint. Spray on the top coat again building up the thickness by using several thin layers of paint. Start spraying in the centre of the repair

Fig. 12.2 Front door securing poiats (Sec. 8)

area and then, using a circular motion, work outwards until the whole repair area and about 2 inches of the surrounding original paintwork is

1 Hinge plate bolts

covered. Remove all masking material 10 to 15 minutes after spraying on the final coat of paint. Allow the new paint at least 2 weeks to harden fully, then, using a paintwork renovator or a very fine cutting paste, blend the edges of the new paint into the existing paintwork. Finally apply wax polish.

6

Major subframe and body damage — general

1 Major subframe and body repair work cannot be successfully undertaken by the home mechanic. Work of this nature should be entrusted to a competent body repair specialist who should have the necessary jigs, welding and hydraulic equipment as well as skilled panel beaters, to ensure a proper job is done.

2 If the damage is severe, it is vital that on completion of repair the chassis is correctly aligned. Less severe damage may also have twisted or distorted the chassis although this may not be visibie immediately. It is therefore, always best on completion of a repair to check for twist and squareness to ensure that all is correct. It is recommended that these checks are made by a Leyland main agent, who will have the necessary body checking jigs.

7

a) Loose door handles, window winder handles or door hinges. b) Loose, worn or misaligned door lock components. c) Loose or worn remote control mechanism. or a combination of these items. 2 If the striker catch is worn as a result of door rattles renew it and adjust as described later in this Chapter.

Should the hinges be badly worn then they must be renewed also.

Cee

8

Front door— removal and refitting

Cee Te

1

Mark the outline of the hinge plate on the door frame using a soft

pencil.

3 Remove the water curtain, then having gained access to the door inner section, drill out the rivet that retains the check strap. Remove the check strap. 4 With an assistant taking the weight of the door, remove the six bolts and spring washers that secure the door. 5 Refitting the door is the reverse sequence to removal. Should it be necessary to adjust the position of the door in the aperture, leave the locknuts slightly loose and reposition the door by trial and error. Fully tighten the locknuts when the correct position is obtained.

9

Rear door — removal and refitting

1 Remove the two bolts and spring washers that secure the retaining strap. 2 Mark the position of the hinge plates on the door frame and, with the door supported, remove the six bolts and spring washers that secure them.

3. Refitting is the reverse to removing. Adjust the position of the hinges as necessary to achieve an accurate fit in the door frame.

Door rattles — tracing and rectification

1 The most common cause of door rattles is a misaligned, loose or worn striker plate but other causes may be:

3

2

2 Check strap

Refer to Section 11 and remove the trim pad.

10

Door hinges (front and rear) — removal and refitting

1 2

Remove the door (Sections 8 or 9). To remove the front door hinges, first remove the two bolts and

washers that secure screws and washers 3 Ease the parcel away from the door fixings. 4 Mark the outline

the driver's side of the parcel shelf, and the two that retain the side trim. shelf slightly upwards and the side trim slightly frame, in order to gain access to the inner hinge

of the hinge plates, then undo the three nuts and washers that secure each hinge plate to the door frame. Withdraw the hinges. 5 To remove the rear door hinges it is only necessary to remove the rear door and then release the three bolts and washers that secure each hinge to the door. 6 Refitting is the reverse of removal. Line up the hinges with the previously made marks. Adjust the hinge position as necessary.

Chapter 12 Bodywork and underframe

173

Fig. 12.4 Removing front door hinges (Sec. 10) Fig. 12.3 Rear door securing points (Sec. 9)

1 Hinge plate bolts

1 Hinge bolts beneath the trim 2 Parcel shelf bolts

2 Check strap bolts 7

11.

Front door — dismantling and reassembly

1 Unscrew and remove the interior lock plunger knob. 2 To remove the window winder, depress the bezel and press out the retaining pin (photo). The shank of a nail will do for this. Remove the handle and bezel, then the arm rest (photo). 3. Itis now possible to remove the trim pad; prise off the sixteen clips that secure it. Use a wide bladed tool without any sharp edges and apply gentle but firm pressure. Take out the screws which retain the capping, then remove the capping (photo). 4 Pull out the ashtray bowl then pull out the retainer after removing the two securing screws. 5 In order to remove the door lock, the water curtain must first be removed. Then release the four linkage clips and undo the four screws

that secure the lock. Pull the lock clear (Fig. 12.5).

R

6 The remote control linkage is released by removing the three screws and washers that retain the handle, and detaching the clip from the handle (photo).

11.2a Window handle and fixing pin

3 Trim retaining screws

The next series of operations concerns the removal of the window

glass so take extra care(Fig. 12.6). 8 Remove the anti-drum stiffener. 9 Wind the glass fully down and detach the regulator arm from the channel (photo). 10 Remove the single bolt and washer that secures the forward glass stop to the bottom of the regulator assembly. 11 Release the glass vertical channel by removing the single bolt and two washers that secures it at the bottom bracket. 12 Carefully remove the window channel rubbers by easing them out of the door glass apertures and the associated clips. 13 Taking extreme care, turn the glass sideways and lift it out through the aperture; try and avoid scratching it on the seal clips. 14 The regulator can now be removed, by releasing the four bolts and washers that secure it to the door frame (photo). Withdraw the regulator. : 15 The final part to be removed from the door is the ventilator. First

remove the top glass sealing rubber (Fig. 12.7). 16 Then, using an electric drill, remove the two pop rivets located in

11.2b Removing the arm rest

11.3 Removing the door trim

This sequence of photographs deals with the repair of the dent and scratch (above rear lamp) shown in this photo. The

In the case of a dent the first job - after removing surrounding trim - is to hammer out the dent where access is possible. This

procedure will be similar for the repair of a hole. It should be

will minimise filling. Here, the large dent having been hammered

noted that the procedures given here are simplified - more explicit instructions will be found in the text

out, the damaged area is being made slightly concave

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Now all paint must be removed from the damaged area, by rubbing with coarse abrasive paper. Alternatively, a wire brush or abrasive pad can be used in a power drill. Where the repair area meets good paintwork, the edge pf the paintwork should be ‘feathered’, using a finer grade of abrasive paper

In the case of a hole caused by rusting, all damaged sheet-metal should be cut away before proceeding to this stage. Here, the damaged area is being treated with rust remover and inhibitor before being filled

Mix the body filler according to its manufacturer's instructions. In the case of corrosion damage, it will be necessary to block off any large holes before filling - this can be done with zinc gauze or aluminium tape. Make sure the area is absolutely clean before ...

... applying the filler. Filler should be applied with a flexible applicator, as shown, for best results: the wooden spatula being used for confined areas. Apply thin layers of filler at 20-minute intervals, until the surface of the filler is slightly proud of the surrounding bodywork

ii

mr

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p

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i

Re ica

Initial shaping can be done with a Surform plane or Dreadnought file. Then, using progressively finer grades of wet-and-dry paper,

wrapped around a sanding block, and copious amounts of clean water, rub-down the filler until really smooth and flat. Again, feather the edges of adjoining paintwork

Again, using plenty of water, rub down the primer with a fine grade of wet-and-dry paper (400 grade is probably best) until it is really smooth and well blended into the surrounding paintwork. Any remaining imperfections can now be filled by

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The whole repair area can now be sprayed or brush-painted with primer. If spraying, ensure adjoining areas are protected from over-spray. Note that at least one-inch of the surrounding sound paintwork should be coated with primer. Primer has a ‘thick’ consistency, so will fill small imperfections

aie

Mh

carefully applied knifing stopper paste

When the stopper has hardened, rub-down the repair area again before applying the final coat of primer. Before rubbing-down this last coat of primer, ensure the repair area is biemish-free - use more stopper if necessary. To ensure that the surface of the primer is really smooth use some finishing compound

The top coat can no pick a dry, warm and wind-free day. Ensure surrounding areas are protected from over-spray. Agitate the aerosol thoroughly, then spray the centre of the repair area, working outwards with a circular motion. Apply the paint as several thin coats.

After a period of about two-weeks, which the paint needs to harden fully, the surface of the repaired area can be ‘cut’ with a mild cutting compound prior to wax polishing. When carrying out bodywork repairs, remember that the quality of the finished job is proportional to the time and effort expended

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Fig. 12.6 Removing window glass and winder mechanism (Sec. 11)

: F Fig. 12.5 Removing the door lock (Sec. 11)

1 Lock retaining screws

2 Linkages

1 Vertical channel bolt 2 Glass bottom stop

3 Stiffener

4 Regulator arm

@

5 Bolt 6 Vertical channel

7 Rubber seals

8 Window glass

-

11.9 Regulator arm and channel

11.14 Door regulator fixings

Fig. 12.7 Removing the ventilation window (Sec. 11) 1 Vertical channel bolt

6 Vertical channel!

2 Stiffener

7 Rivets (2)

3 Glass bottom stop 4 Window glass 5 Bolt

8 Rubber seals 9 Ventilation window

Chapter 12 Bodywork and underframe

177

the angled frame. 17 Pull the glass clear of the vent runner and lift out the vent assembly. 18 The parts are now ready for inspection and refitting. Should the window winder or door lock mechanism prove to be faulty, the complete unit must be renewed as individual service parts are not available. 19 Refitting the door parts is the reverse sequence to removal. Lubricate well all moving parts. It is recommended if there are signs of excessive internal rusting of the door panels, that the rust be removed with a suitable solvent and the interior of the door be painted with a rust inhibiting paint. Check that the drain holes are free of rust and dirt.

ee a Se . . e e 12 Rear door — dismantling and reassembly a

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The rear door is dismantled in essentially the same manner as the front door (Section 11) from the point of removing the various control handles. The next step is the removal of the trim pad and door internal mechanisms. 1

Using a wide bladed screwdriver carefully prise away the door trim

pad from the door inner panel. There are fifteen spring clips securing it in position. Unscrew the lock plunger knob and take out the screws which retain the capping. 2 To detach the remote control linkage, remove the spring clips by prising them out of their recesses with a screwdriver. 3 Undo and remove the three screws securing the handle to the door inner panel. 4 Lift away the window regulator control linkage. 5 To remove the regulator, undo the three screws securing the glass stop. Lift away the glass stop.

6 Carefully lower the door glass. Undo and remove the four screws, disengage the regulator arm from the door glass channel and lift the regulator mechanism away from the door. 7 Toremove the door lock, undo and remove the four screws and lift away the lock assembly. 8 To remove the door handle, undo and remove the three screws and lift away the door handle. 9 The door glass and ventilator may next be removed. Allow the glass to rest in the bottom of the door and remove the inner and outer weather strips. 10 Undo and remove the two screws and clips which secure the anti-

Fig. 12.8 Rear window components (Sec. 12) 1 Winder mechanism

5

2 Screw

6 Rubber seals

Vertical channel

3 Regulator arm 4 Bolt

7 Rivet

drum stiffener. Lift away the stiffener. 11 Carefully pull the weatherstrip from the ventilator area of the door, to expose the securing pop rivet. 12 Remove the pop rivet using a drill. 13 Remove the glass sealing rubber from the top of the door. 14 Undo and remove the screw located at the bottom of the quarter light stanchion. Carefully pull the stanchion away from the glass and remove it. 15 The door quarter light glass assembly may now be lifted out of the

door frame.

13

Striker plate — removal, refitting and adjustment

1 If it is wished to renew a worn striker plate, mark its position on the door pillar, so a new plate can be fitted in the same position. 2 To remove the plate, simply undo and remove the two screws which hold the plate in position. Refitting is equally straightforward. 3 To adjust the striker plate, close the door and then push it hard

against its sealing rubber. The door edge furthest from the hinges should move in approximately 3/32 in (2.4 mm). Slacken the door striker plate screws and adjust the plate until the 4 clearance is correct. Tighten the screws and check that the door closes properly without lifting or dropping and that on the road it does not rattle.

eee 14 Windscreen glass — removal and refitting e ee e (ar 1

_

If you are unfortunate enough to have a windscreen shatter, fitting

a new windscreen

is one of the few jobs that the average owner is

advised to leave to a body repair specialist. For the owner who wishes

to do the job himself, however, the following instructions should be followed.

Fig. 12.9 Fitting a new windscreen (Sec. 14) if (GOlKe) 2 Ensure that the windscreen wipers are in their OFF position. 3 Remove the windscreen wiper arms, by prising them off with a screwdriver blade. 4 Using a piece of tapered hardwood, break the seal around the outside of the windscreen sealing rubber. 5 An assistant will now be required, and he should be prepared to catch the glass as it is released from the aperture. 6

Sit in the

passenger's

seat

and,

with

one

foot

placed

on

the

windscreen glass, and a soft pad interposed between the shoe and the glass, carefully push the glass out. Ensure the foot is protected in case the glass breaks and your foot goes through. 7 Carefully pull the weatherstrip and finisher strip from the glass and

178

Chapter 12 Bodywork and underframe

inspect for signs of stretching or perishing. If evident, a new weatherstrip or finisher should be obtained. 8 Clean the glass, weatherstrip and aperture with petrol or white spirit to remove all old sealant from the windscreen aperture edge.

9 Fit the weatherstrip to the windscreen with the joint at the bottom. Seal the rubber to the glass with a mastic sealant such as Seelastik. Insert the finisher at this stage as it is easier to do now than when the weatherstrip is back in the aperture. 10 Insert a thick cord, longer than the perimeter of the glass, into the inner channel of the rubber strip in such a manner that the ends protrude from the bottom edge of the weatherstrip. 11 Smear some soapy water solution to the flange of the windscreen aperture. Position the windscreen centrally on the aperture after passing the ends of the cord through into the car.

12 The services of an assistant should be obtained again, this time to maintain a steady pressure on the outside of the glass. The ends of the cord may now be pulled so as to bring the lip of the weatherstrip over

the body flange. 13 Make quite sure that the lip is firmly pushed down behind the facia. To obtain a good seating, it may be necessary to strike the outside of the weatherstrip with a rubber faced hammer.

Fig. 12.10 Front seat channel fixings (Sec. 15) 1 Front bolt

14 Completely withdraw the cord and then seal the weatherstrip to body joint with mastic sealant. Remove surplus sealant with a cloth moistened in petrol or white spirit. Do not allow any excess cleaning liquid to seep into the joint and destroy the seal.

2 Rear bolt

channel.

Rear seat 1 Lift the front of the rear seat cushion up by about two inches (50 mm) until it is clear of its retaining clip. Draw the cushion forwards and

lift away from inside the car. 15

2 To remove the rear seat squab, undo and remove the two bolts located in the centre of the lower edge, and lift the squab from its two hooks. 3. Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal.

Front and rear seat — removal and refitting

Front seat 1 Move the front seat forwards as far as it will go and remove the bolt from the rear of each channel. 2 Push the seat fully rearwards and remove one bolt from the front of each channel. 3. The front seat may now be lifted away complete with side channels. 4 Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal. To ensure smooth operation of the seat in its channels, apply a little grease to each

16 Facia panel — removal and refitting (including speedometer cable and access to instruments}

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Fig. 12.11 Removing the facia panel (Sec. 16) 1 Ventilator hoses 2 Ventilation console Screws 3 Heater control knobs

4 Instrument securing

of

1 Disconnect the battery earth lead for safety reasons. 2 Pull off the rubber hoses to the ‘eyeball’ ventilators. Note: This /s not necessary if access to the clock only is required. If it is only

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renewal!

panel

securing

Screws

5 Connections to the clock 6 Demister grille

7 Top facia panel securing screws 8 Steering column adjustment bracket screws 9 End facia panel securing screws and brackets

179

Chapter 12 Bodywork and underframe required to withdraw or remove

the instrument panel, then the rubber

hose on the driver's side only needs to be removed. 3 Remove the lining of the glovebox by taking out the screws which secure the check link, and the four screws which retain the lining and striker at the top. The lining can then be prised out and the clock removed. Note: This is not necessary if access to the instrument panel only is required. 4 Remove the four crosshead screws which retain the instrument panel then, working from beneath, ease the panel forward. Now slip a hand in above the speedometer and pull off the cable. If it is required to remove the inner (drive) cable it can be pulled out. If the outer cable

is to be removed, first unscrew the collar on the right-hand side of the gearbox and remove the rubber grommet on the bulkhead in the engine compartment. The cable can now be pulled out through the engine compartment. (Also see Chapter 10, Sections 56 to 59). 5 Remove all the electrical leads from the instrument panel, noting

reconnect the speedometer cable before finally fitting the instrument panel, and the rubber hoses to the ‘eye-ball’ ventilators if removed.

17

Parcel shelf — removal and refitting

1 Initially, pull off the duct tubes on the rear of each ‘eyeball’ ventilator. 2 Remove the cap nuts, nuts, washers and screws which are used to hold the parcel shelf to the central support tube and to the angle support at each end. 3 Remove the four crosshead screws which hold the heated rear window switch. 4 Remove the fasteners which hold the parcel shelf to the heater

(one at each side).

their respective colours for refitting.

5 Take out the crosshead screws, washers and clips which secure the parcel shelf to the reinforcement strap (two each side of the steer-

6

ing column).

Remove the demister grille and the three screws beneath it which

retain the facia panel at the top. 7 Unscrew the grub screws which retain the heater control knobs, and puil the knobs off. 8 Remove the three bolts, spring washers and plain washers which screw the steering column support/adjustment bracket to the facia. 9 Take out the two screws, spring washers and plain washers which retain the central ventilation outlet console. 10 Take out the two bolts, spring washers and plain washers at each end which secure the facia panel end brackets to the sidewall, then carefully draw the facia panel forwards. 11 Refitting is the reverse procedure to removal, but take care that all the electrical leads are connected correctly and, where instruments have been removed, that they are refitted squarely. Do not forget to

)

6 Slacken the bolt at each end of the support tube, then remove each remaining bolt, spring washer and plain washer. 7 Now pull the support tube downwards and remove the angle supports at each end of the parcel shelf. 8 The parcel shelf can now be pulled carefully away. 9 Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal.

18

Heater unit and fan motor — removal and refitting

1. Drain the cooling system as described in Chapter 2. 2 Remove the facia panel as described previously in this Chapter and remove the front carpet.

“ease

=

2 Fig. 12.12 Parcel shelf securing points (Sec. 17) 1 2 3

Ventilator hose Support tube screws Angle support screws

4 5

Heated rear screws Fasteners

window

switch

6

Reinforcement strap screws

Support tube bolt Support tube bolt Support tube COON ~ O Parcel shelf bracket screws

180

Chapter 12 Bodywork and underframe

3 Place a container of approximately 1 pint (1 litre) capacity beneath the heater, then take off the hoses taking care to catch any coolant which flows out. 4 Remove the demister duct from the heater. 5 Disconnect the hooked end of the air vent control cable from the central lever. 6 Disconnect the two electrical leads from the central lever, noting their respective colours to prevent mix-up when refitting. 7 Remove the nuts, bolts and washers which secure the heater unit to the air distribution duct (one bolt each side).

8

12 Slacken the two clips and ease off the moulded plastic air hose. 13 Undo the three bolts securing the blower motor to the bulkhead and lift away the blower assembly. Note that the earth cable is connected to the lower of the two mounting bolts. 14 In both cases, refitting is the reverse sequence to removal. Refer to Chapter 2, and refill the cooling system. A mastic sealant sucn as Seelastik should be used to sea! the fan motor to the bulkhead. Before refitting the control cable, ensure the central control lever is in the OFF position and the fan motor flap lever is positioned fully to the left.

Remove the four bolts, washers and spring washers which secure

the heater unit to the bulkhead. 9 The heater unit can now be removed but take care not to damage the matrix. Have a supply of rags handy, or cover the floor with newspapers, to absorb any spillage of coolant as the unit is withdrawn. 10 If it is necessary to remove the heater blower motor, note the cable connections to the motor and disconnect the cables from their connectors. Then remove the screen washer bottle. 11. Slacken the trunnion bolt and detach the air control cable from the air valve.

19 Heater airflow control cable — removal and refitting 1 Slacken the trunnion on the blower flap lever and detach the cable. 2 Detach the inner cable from the fan switch and pull the cable assembly clear. 3. To refit, reverse the removal instructions, ensuring that the fan switch is in the OFF position and the fan motor flap lever is positioned fully to the left.

20

Heater water valve — removal and refitting

1

Detach

the control rod from the locating hole in the end of the

valve stem. 2 Slacken the screw that secures the valve retainer on the shoulder of the valve; withdraw the retainer and valve.

3

Refit in the reverse order to removal, ensuring that the contro! rod

is positioned to allow free movement of the valve.

Fig. 12.13 Heater unit disconnection points (Sec. 18) 1 2 3 4

Bulkhead gaskets Hose clips Rear gasket Switch knob

5 6 7 8

Control cable Motor leads Bottom bracket bolts Rear bracket bolts

Fig. 12.14 Fan motor, flap valve and ducting hose (Sec. 18) 71 Windscreen washer bottle 2 Motor leads

3 Flap valve lever and trunnion bolt 4 Hose and clips

21

Heater fan motor switch — removal and refitting

1 Remove the three grub screws securing the control knobs and pull off the knobs. 2 Next, remove the escutcheon by releasing the two boits, nuts and

washers that secure it to the facia.

Fig. 12.15 Heater water valve (Sec. 20) 7 Control rod 2 Retainer and screw

3 Valve components

,

Chapter 12 Bodywork and underframe 23

181

Bonnet lock control cable — removal and refitting

1 Open the bonnet and support on its stay. 2 Slacken the nut and detach the release cable from the trunnion located at the lock lever. Loosen the pinch bolt. 3 Detach the release cable and its clip from the bonnet lock. 4 Remove the screw that secures each combined rubber buffer and cable clip to the wing valance. Lift away the two rubber clips. 5 Undo and remove the nut and shakeproof washer that secures the outer cable to the body side bracket mounted below the facia panel. 6 Carefully withdraw the control cable assembly through the body grommet.

Fig. 12.16 Removing fan motor switch (Sec. 21) 7 Control knobs and clips 2 Escutcheon and locating bolts 3 Control cable

4 Motor leads 5 Switch screws

7 Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal. It is however, necessary to adjust the inner cable. Push the release knob in fully and make sure that the lock release lever is not pre-loaded by the release cable. 8 There must be a minimum movement of 0.5 in (12.7 mm) prior to the release of the bonnet. To adjust, slacken the cable trunnion nut and re-adjust the cable so that the bonnet is released within 0.5 to 2.0 in (30 to 50 mm) of cable movement. Note: /f at any time the release cable breaks when the bonnet is closed, careful manipulation of a screwdriver through the air intake grille in the bonnet lid will release the catch.

3 Unhook the control cable from the switch and disconnect the two leads: it is best to note the connection points of the leads before

24

removal, rather than have confusion when refitting.

1 Open the bonnet and hold open using the bonnet stay. To act as a datum for refitting, mark the position of the hinges using a soft pencil. 2 If wished, the bonnet stay can be removed at this stage by taking out the split pin, washers and clevis pin (photo). Alternatively, remove the hinge bolts first as described in paragraph 3. 3 With the help of an assistant to take the weight of the bonnet, remove the four bolts, spring washers and plain washers, then the two location plates, which secure the hinges (photo). 4 Lift the bonnet away from the car. If the stay has not yet been removed, ease the bonnet first towards the rear of the engine compartment a little and withdraw the stay from the large opening in the stay support. In this way the stay need not be removed from the bonnet. 5 Refitting the bonnet is the reverse of removal for whichever

4 Remove the two screws that secure the switch and lift it out of the panel. 5 Refit in the reverse order to removal.

22

Bonnet lock — removal and refitting

1 Open the bonnet and support it on its stay. 2 Slacken the nut and detach the release cable from the trunnion located at the lock lever, loosen the pinch bolt. 3. Detach the release cable and its clip from the bonnet lock (photo). 4 Undo and remove the three bolts, plain and spring washers securing the bonnet lock. Lift away the bonnet lock. 5 Undo and remove the two nuts, plain and shakeproof washers that secure the catch assembly to the underside of the bonnet. 6 Detach the return spring and catch assembly. 7 Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal. 8 Carefully lower the bonnet and check the alignment of the catch with the lock hole. If misaligned, slacken the fixing bolts and move the assembly slightly. Retighten the fixing bolts. 9 Close the bonnet and check its alignment with the body wing panels. If necessary reposition the catch assembly. 10 The bonnet must contact the rubber stops. To adjust the position of the stops, remove the screws and place packing beneath the stops until the bonnet will close sufficiently to just compress the stops, thus eliminating any rattle. 11. Lubricate all moving parts and finally check the bonnet and release operation.

Bonnet — removal and refitting

method was adopted.

25

Boot lid — removal and refitting

1 It is recommended that a blanket be placed under the top side of the lid and spread over the wing panels to act as a precaution against scratching of the paintwork during removal or refitting. 2 For safety reasons disconnect the battery earth terminal. Also detach the wires leading to the lid from the top left-hand corner of the

‘luggage compartment. 3 With the help of an assistant to take the weight of the boot lid, remove the four securing bolts. 4 Should it be necessary to remove the hinges, disconnect the lead from the boot light switch and pull it clear of the hinge. 5 Remove the single nut, bolt and washers from the inside of the

a

24.2 Bonnet stay clevis

24.3

Removing

location plate

s

the

bonnet

re

hinge

and

182

Chapter 12 Bodywork and underframe ¥

26.1 Bonnet latch fixings

left-hand hinge. 6 Finally remove the four nuts and washers and lift away the hinge and torsion bar assemblies. 7 Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal.

\

27.8 Rear bumper fixings

rider support. 3 Whilst supporting the bumper, remove the two screws at each fixing bracket then lift the bumper and brackets clear of the car. 4 Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal.

Rear bumper 26

Boot lid lock striker — removal and refitting

Lock 1 Open the boot lid and remove the three bolts, spring washers and plain washers then lift off the latch (photo). 2 Rotate the locking ring through 90°. Withdraw the lock assembly and sealing ring, taking care not to damage the later. 3. Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal.

5 Disconnect the two number plate lamp leads. 6 Remove the side trim pads in the luggage boot. There are two screws and one clip on each pad. 7 Remove the bolt, spring washer and plain washer which secure each end of the bumper. 8 Remove the four bolts, spring washers and plain washers which secure the bumper to the fixing brackets (photo).

9

Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal.

Lock striker 4 Remove the eleven crosshead screws, which retain the trim pad. 5 Remove the three bolts, spring washers and plain washers, then lift off the striker. ; 6 Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal but before finally tightening the striker check that the boot lid is correctly aligned when closed.

27

Bumpers — removal and refitting

Front bumper 1 Remove the bumper. 2 Remove

the bolt, spring washer and plain washer at each end of

the bolt, spring washer and plain washer on each under-

28 1 2

Gearbox tunnel cover — removal and refitting

Remove the front seats as described in Section 15 of this Chapter. Remove the carpeting from the gearbox tunnel cover. 3 Take out the two bolts at each end of the parcel shelf support tube and the two crosshead screws which secure the front edge. 4 Pull off the hand grip from the handbrake lever. 5 Take out the fifteen bolts and four nuts which secure the tunnel to the floor. 6 Break the seal between the tunnel cover and the floor, then carefully lift out the tunnel over the gear lever. 7 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure but apply a film of mastic sealant such as Seelastik to the mating surfaces of the tunnel and floor. Also ensure that the seal retainers are correctly located in the cover.

Metric conversion tables Millimetres to Inches

Inches 1/64 1/32 3/64 1/16 5/64 3/32 7/64 1/8 9/64 5/32 11/64 3/16 13/64 7/32 15/64 1/4 17/64 9/32 19/64 5/16 21/64 11/32 23/64 3/8 25/64 13/32 27/64 7/16 29/64 15/32 31/64 1/2 33/64 17/32 35/64 9/16 37/64 19/32 39/64 5/8 41/64 21/32 43/64 11/16 45/64 23/32 47/64 3/4 49/64 25/32 51/64 13/16 53/64 27/32 55/64 7/8 57/64 29/32 59/64 15/16 61/64 31/32

0.015625 0.03125 0.046875 0.0625 0.078125 0.09375 0.109375 0.125 0.140625 0.15625 0.171875 0.1875 0.203125 0.21875 0.234375 0.25 0.265625 0.28125 0.296875 0.3125 0.328125 0.34375 0.359375 0.375 0.390625 0.40625 0.421875 0.4375 0.453125 0.46875 0.484375 0.5 0.515625 0.53125 0.546875 0.5625 0.578125 0.59375 0.609375 0.625 0.640625 0.65625 0.671875 0.6875 0.703125 0.71875 0.734375 0.75 0.765625 0.78125 0.796875 0.8125 0.828125 0.84375 0.859375 0.875 0.890625 0.90625 0.921875 0.9375 0.953125 0.96875

Decimals

63/64

0.984375

Millimetres

.

Inches to Millimetres

mm

Inches

Inches

mm

0.3969 0.7937 1.1906 1.5875 1.9844 2.3812 2.7781 3.1750 3.5719 3.9687 4.3656 4.7625 5.1594 5.5562 5.9531 6.3500 6.7469 7.1437 7.5406 7.9375 8.3344 8.7312 9.1281 9.5250 9.9219 10.3187 10.7156 11.1125 11.5094 11.9062 12.3031 12.7000 13.0969 13.4937 13.8906 14.2875 14.6844 15.0812 15.4781 15.8750 16.2719 16.6687 17.0656 17.4625 17.8594 18.2562 18.6531 19.0500 19.4469 19.8437 20.2406 20.6375 21.0344 21.4312 21.8281 22.2250 22.6219 23.0187 23.4156 23.8125 24.2094 24.6062

0.01 0.02 0.03 0.04 0.05 0.06 0.07 0.08 0.09 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6 0.7 0.8 0.9 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 U?/ 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32) 64} 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44

0.00039 0.00079 0.00118 0.00157 0.00197 0.00236 0.00276 0.00315 0.00354 0.00394 0.00787 0.01181 0.01575 0.01969 0.02362 0.02756 0.03150 0.03543 0.03937 0.07874 0.11811 0.15748 0.19685 0.23622 0.27559 0.31496 0.35433 0.39370 0.43307 0.47244 0.51181 0.55118 0.59055 0.62992 0.66929 0.70866 0.74803 0.78740 0.82677 0.86614 0.90551 0.94488 0.98425 1.02362 1.06299 1.10236 1.14173 1.18110 1.22047 1.25984 1.29921 1.33858 1.37795 1.41732 1.4567 1.4961 1.5354 1.5748 1.6142 1.6535 1.6929 1.7323

0.001 0.002 0.003 0.004 0.005 0.006 0.007 0.008 0.009 0.01 0.02 0.03 0.04 0.05 0.06 0.07 0.08 0.09 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6 0.7 0.8 0.9 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35

0.0254 0.0508 0.0762 0.1016 0.1270 0.1524 0.1778 0.2032 0.2286 0.254 0.508 0.762 1.016 1.270 1.524 1.778 2.032 2.286 2.54 5.08 7.62 10.16 12.70 15.24 U7ie7ks) 20.32 22.86 25.4 50.8 76.2 101.6 127.0 152.4 177.8 203.2 228.6 254.0 279.4 304.8 330.2 355.6 381.0 406.4 431.8 457.2 482.6 508.0 533.4 558.8 584.2 609.6 635.0 660.4 685.8 iallez 736.6 762.0 787.4 812.8 838.2 863.6 889.0

25.0031

45

1.7717

36

914.4

184

Metric Conversion Tables

i

Imperial gallon = 8 Imp pints = 1.16 US gallons = 277.42 cu in = 4.5459 litres

1

US gallon = 4 US quarts = 0.862 Imp gallon = 231 cu in = 3.785 litres

1

Litre = 0.2199 Imp gallon = 0.2642 US gallon = 61.0253 cu in = 1000 cc

Miles to Kilometres

Kilometres to Miles

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

1.61 $.22 4.83 6.44 8.05 9.66 11.27 12.88 14.48 16.09 32.19 48.28 64.37 80.47 96.56 112.65 128.75 144.84 160.93

0.62 1.24 1.86 2.49 3.11 3.73 4.35 4.97 5.59 6.21 12.43 18.64 24.85 31.07 37.28 43.50 49.71 55.92 62.14

:

Ib fft to Kg fm

Kg fmto Ib f ft

Ib f/in2 :Kg f/cm2

Kg f/cm2: Ib f/in2

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 20 30

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 20 30

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 20 30

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Ke) 10 20 30

0.138 0.276 0.414 0.553 0.691 0.829 0.967 1.106 1.244 1.382 2.765 4.147

7.233 14.466 21.699 28.932 36.165 43.398 50.631 57.864 65.097 72.330 144.660 216.990

0.07 0.14 0.21 0.28 0.35 0.42 0.49 0.56 0.63 0.70 1.41 2.11

14.22 28.50 42.67 56.89 7142 85.34 99.56 113.79 128.00 142.23 284.47 426.70

index removal — 23 renovation — 26

Air cleaner — 43 Alternator — 130 Antifreeze — 39 Automatic transmission description — 99 downshift cable — 101, 104 extension rear oil seal — 102 fault diagnosis — 107 front brake band— 101 front servo — 101

governor — 102 hand lever turret — 104 rear brake band— 101 rear extension — 102 rear servo — 101

=

removal and refitting — 100 restrictor valve and bypass pipe — 103 road test — 105 selector rod — 103 specifications — 69 stall test — 105 starter inhibitor/reverse lamp switch — 103

torque wrench settings — 70 transmission sump — 103

Battery —- 129 Big-end bearings renewal — 23 renovation — 25 Bodywork bonnet — 181

boot lid— 181 bumpers — 182 description — 169 dimensions — 170 facia panel — 178

gearbox tunnel cover — 182 maintenance — 169 major damage repair — 172 minor damage repair — 171 parcel shelf — 179 Braking system bleeding — 199 disc brakes description — 117 drum brakes description — 117 fault diagnosis — 127 front brake disc shields — 124 front brake discs — 124 front brake pad — 123 front disc brake calipers — 124, 125 handbrake adjustment — 123 handbrake cable — 123 handbrake lever assembly — 122 hydraulic pipes — 119 master cylinder— 119 pedal — 121 rear brake backplates — 127 rear brake shoes — 125 rear brake wheel cylinders — 126

servo non-return valve and filter — 121 servo unit description — 120 servo unit removal and refitting — 120 specifications — 117 stoplight switch — 121

torque wrench settings — 117 Bumpers — 182

Camshaft refitting — 31

Capacities general — 5 Carburettors dismantling — 44 inspection — 44 reassembly — 46 removal and refitting — 43 tamperproof — 47 tuning — 46 Choke cable — 49 Clutch bleeding — 62 description — 62 fault diagnosis — 67 master cylinder — 64 pedal — 66 release mechanism — 66 removal and refitting — 18

slave cylinder dismantling and reassembly — 63 slave cylinder renewal and refitting — 62 specifications — 62

torque wrench settings — 22 Coil — 60 Condenser removal and refitting — 56 Connecting rods reassembly — 28 reassembly to crankshaft — 28 removal — 23 Contact breaker points adjustment — 56 removal and refitting — 55 Cooling system description — 38

draining — 38 fault diagnosis — 42

filling — 38 flushing — 40 specifications — 38 torque wrench settings — 38 Crankcase ventilatign system — 24 Crankshaft

housing refitting — 33 rear seal refitting — 33 refitting — 28 removal — 24 renovation — 24 Cylinder bores renovation — 25 Cylinder head decarbonisation — 27

refitting — 32 removal (engine in car) — 22 removal (engine on bench) — 21 D Decarbonisation — 27 Dimensions

general — 5 Distributor

dismantling and reassembly— 54 drive refitting — 23 drive removal — 23 lubrication — 58

refitting — 53 removal — 53 Doors

front, dismantling and reassembly — 173 front, removal and refitting — 172 hinges — 172 rattles —172

186

Index

ET

rear, dismantling and reassembly — 177 rear, removal and refitting — 172

G Gearbox specifications — 68 Gearbox (single rail)

striker plate — 177

description — 84 dismantling — 85 fault diagnosis — 84

Electrical system

accessories fitment — 138 cigarette lighter — 142 description — 129 fault diagnosis — 144 flasher unit — 137 fusebox 142 headlamps— 138 instruments —142 lights — 138, 189, 140 night dimming relay— 137 specifications — 128 speedometer — 142 speedometer cable — 142, 143 switches— 140, 141 voltage stabilizer — 142 wiring diagrams — 145 — 151 Engine

input shaft — 87 mainshaft — 87 reassembly — 89 removal and refitting — 85 renovation — 85 Gearbox tunnel cover — 182 Gearbox (three rail) cover extension — 80 description — 70 dismantling — 70 fault diagnosis — 84 input shaft — 76 mainshaft — 73 rear extension — 84 rear oil seal — 84 reassembly — 78

ancillary components removal — 21

removal and refitting — 70

assembly final — 35

renovation — 76

dismantling — 20 endplate refitting — 31 endplate removal — 23 fails to start — 61 fault diagnosis — 37

top cover — 82 torque wrench settings — 70 Gudgeon pin removal — 23

misfires — 61

H

operations necessitating engine removal — 19

Headlamps — 138

Operations with engine in place — 19 refitting — 36 reassembly general — 27

Heater — 179, 180 Horns — 137 Hubs

removal — 19 removal method — 19

front bearings — 133, 154 rear bearings — 160

renovation — 24 specifications — 15 start-up after overhaul — 36

|

Ignition system coil and ballast resistor — 60 description — 33 fault diagnosis — 61

torque wrench settings — 17 Exhaust system — 15

F

Fan belt — 42 Fan blades — 40 Fault diagnosis automatic transmission — 107 braking system — 127 clutch — 67

specifications — 53

timing adjustment — 57 ’ Jacking — 11

cooling system — 42 electrical system — 144 engine — 37

Lights — 138, 139, 140 Lubricants recommended — 12

fuel system — 52 gearbox — 84

Lubrication chart — 12 Lubrication system — 24

J

L

ignition system — 61

overdrive — 99 propeller shaft — 110 rear axle— 116 steering — 168 suspension — 168 Flywheel

M Main bearings removal — 24 renovation — 25 Maintenance routine — 9

refitting — 33 removal — 23 renovation — 27 Flywheel starter ring

renovation — 26 Fuel pump filter cleaning — 50 removal and refitting — 50

testing — 50 Fuel system

description — 43 fault diagnosis — 52 specifications — 43 Fuel tank — 50

O Oil filter — removal and refitting — 24 Oil pressure relief valve — removal and refitting — 24 Oil pump

dismantling — 24 refitting — 33 removal — 24 renovation — 26

Overdrive description — 92

fault diagnosis — 99 hydraulic pump non-return valve — 94 hydraulic system — 92 oil pressure checks — 94

Index

187

EE overhaul — 95 pressure filter — 95 principle of operation — 92 relief valve and dashpot — 94 removal and refitting — 95 solenoid control valve — 94 specifications — 69 torque wrench settings — 70

Piston rings refitting — 28 removal — 23 renovation — 25 Pistons reassembly — 28 refitting — 28 removal — 23 renovation — 25 Propelier shaft description — 108 fault diagnosis — 110 removal and refitting — 108 torque wrench settings — 108 type — 108 universal joints — 109

Radiator header tank — 39 removal and refitting — 39 Radio fitting — 138 Rear axle bearings— 111 description — 111 differential assembly — 113

fault diagnosis — 116 halfshafts — 111 oilseals— 111 pinion and refitting — 115 removal and refitting — 115 specifications — 111 torque wrench settings — 111 Rocker assembly dismantling — 22 reassembly — 31 renovation — 26

removal — 23 renovation — 27 Suspension description — 153

fault front front front front

diagnosis — 168 anti-roll bar — 158 lower wishbone arm and radius rod — 156 spring and damper — 154 upper wishbone arms — 156

radius rod — 161 rear damper— 161 rear suspension arm — 161 specifications — 152

torque wrench settings — 153 vertical link lower balljoint — 159 Switches — 140, 141 Yr Tappets reassembly — 31 renovation — 26 Thermostat — 40 Throttle cable — 48 linkage — 49 pedal —.48 Timing chain removal — 22 renovation — 26

tensioner refitting — 24, 31 tensioner removal — 24 tensioner renovation — 26 Timing cover refitting — 31 removal — 22 Timing gears refitting — 31 removal — 22 renovation — 26 Tools — 13 Towing — 11 Tyre pressures — 152 Tyres — 152

Universal joints — 109

Routine maintenance — 9 Valve guides

Seats — 178 Spare parts buying — 8 Spark plugs — 60 Speedometer — 142

Starter motor description — 131

overhaul — 131 removal and refitting — 131 roller clutch — 133 testing on engine — 133 Steering column — 165, 166 column lock and ignition switch — 167 description — 153 fault diagnosis — 168 front wheel alignment — 167 front wheel camber — 167 intermediate shaft — 167 outer balljoint assembly — 163 rack and pinion gear — 162 rear wheel alignment — 167 specifications — 152 torque wrench settings — 153

wheel — 162 Sump refilling — 35

removal — 22 renovation — 27 Valves adjustment — 33 reassembly — 31 removal — 22 renovation — 26 Vehicle identification numbers — 8

WwW Water pump — 41 Weights, general — 5 Wheels — 152 Windscreen glass — 177 Windscreen washers dismantling and reassembly — 136 general — 136 jets -— 137 pump and reservoir — 137 Windscreen wipers arms — 134 blades — 134 description — 134 fault finding — 136 linkage — 135 motor — 134 Wiring diagrams — 145 — 151

R

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>

=

a

; —_

Ss

a

— —— rs