Haynes Toyota Corolla 1984 thru 1988 Owners Workshop Manual 1850102384, 9781850102380

Citation preview

Y

© OUNTY LIBRAR CUMBERLAND STREET 300 E, COMMERCE 302 BRIDGETON, NJ 08

Toyota _ iii 629.287 STR STRASMAN, TOYOTA

Co}

Ol

a

Owners Workshop Manual

COROL

RLAND CUMBE BOO FAS) 3

LST

LCC OWNERS W (6)

COUNTY

CfOMNI PVR

BRID GETON,

N. J. 08302

by Peter G Strasman and John H Haynes Member

Models

of the Guild of Motoring Writers

covered

Toyota Corolla Deluxe & LE Sedan and Deluxe Liftback Front-wheel-drive versions with 1.6 liter (96.8 cu in) engine Does not cover diesel engine or rear-wheel-drive models

ISBN

1 85010

238

4

© Haynes Publishing Group 1985, 1988 All rights any form recording in writing

reserved. or by any or by any from the

No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, information storage or retrieval system, without permission copyright holder.

Printed in England (7P7

—

7025)

AUTOMOTIVE 275 Sa eee ACCIESSORIES

ASSOCIATION VIEMBETe Haynes Publishing Group Sparkford Nr Yeovil Somerset BA22 7JJ England Library of Congress

Haynes Publications, Inc 861 Lawrence Drive Newbury Park California 91320 USA

LIBRARS

pene ETREEY

Catalog card number

88-82996

.

;

Acknowledgements supplied the lubrication data and Sykes-Pickavant Ltd provided some of the workshop tools. Special thanks are due to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual.

Our thanks are due to the Toyota Motor Sales Company Limited for their assistance with technical information and the supply of certain illustrations. The Champion Sparking Plug Company supplied the illustrations showing the various spark plug conditions. Castrol Limited

About

this manual

_.

[ts aim The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage),

provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads. The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Then the tasks are described and photographed in a step-by-step sequence so that even a novice can do the work.

[ts arrangement The

manual

is divided

into twelve

Chapters,

each

covering

a

logical sub-division of the vehicle. The Chapters are each divided into Sections, numbered with single figures, eg 5; and the Sections into paragraphs (or sub-sections), with decimal numbers following on from the Section they are in, eg 5.1, 5.2, 5.3 etc.

It is freely illustrated, especially in those parts where there is a detailed sequence of operations to be carried out. There are two forms of illustration: figures and photographs. The figures are numbered in sequence with decimal numbers, according to their position in the Chapter — eg Fig. 6.4 is the fourth drawing/illustration in Chapter 6. Photographs carry the same number (either individually or in related groups) as the Section or sub-section to which they relate. There is an alphabetical index at the back of the manual as well as a contents list at the front. Each Chapter is also preceded by its own individual contents list. References to the ‘left’ or ‘right’ of the vehicle are in the sense of a person in the driver's seat facing forwards. Unless otherwise stated, nuts and bolts are removed by turning anti-clockwise, and tightened by turning clockwise. Vehicle manufacturers continually make changes to specifications and recommendations, and these, when notified, are incorporated into our manuals at the earliest opportunity. Whilst every care is taken to ensure that the information in this manual is correct, no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

Introduction to the Toyota Corolla This model represents a courageous step for Toyota by departing from the traditional configuration used in one of the world’s largest selling rear wheel drive cars, to front wheel drive.

The new models are very similar to most other makes in this class and are well finished and equipped. Being conventional in every respect, they are easily serviced and

maintained, and present no problems to the keen home

mechanic.

Page

> ° o.5 fo) = ® a a ® = ® = con >

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=

® 2} &

N

2.

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Introduction to the Toyota

General

dimensions,

Corolla

weights and capacities

2

6

Use of English

7

Buying spare parts and vehicle identification numbers

8

General repair procedures

11

Jacking and towing

12

lubricants and fluids

Recommended

13

Safety first!

14

Routine maintenance

15

Fault diagnosis

20

Chapter

Engine

24

Chapter 2.

Cooling, heating and air conditioning

50

Chapter 3.

Fuel and emissions control systems

63

Chapter 4

Ignition system

92

Chapter 5

Clutch

104

1.

Chapter

6

Manual transmission

110

Chapter

7

Automatic transmission

132

hubs, roadwheels and tyres

Chapter 8

Driveshafts,

Chapter 9

Braking system

Chapter 10

Electrical system

Chapter

Suspension

11

Chapter 12

and steering

Bodywork

136

143

158 182

198

Revisions and information on 1985 and later models Chapter 13 Supplement: a Wiring diagrams

221

Conversion factors

306

Index

307

266

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General

dimensions,

weights and capacities

Dimensions Overall length

4135.0

mm

(162.8 in)

Overall width OVerallith Sight seretencr store tick eAostaass son. chest aaets eraataers endemteers cites paverateie aehbennaos Ground clearance

1636.0

mm

(64.4 in)

1384.0 mm (54.5 in) 160.0 mm (6.3 in)

Weights Kerb weight

Saloon

Manual

890 kg (1960 Ib) 910 kg (2005 Ib)

transmission

Towing capacity: Trailer with brakes

Liftback 906 kg (1995 926 kg (2040

1000 kg (2205 Ib) 400 kg (800 Ib)

Capacities Engine oil (with filter change)

3.3 litre (5.8 Imp pt, 3.5 US qt)

WanualiztransimiSs|Ompeercsaictccametrctatcr ntsiccasscseecasnniveteneetcta mene te ete Automatic transmission (routine fluid change)

2.3 litre (4.0 Imp pt, 2.4 US qt) 2.3 litre (4.1 Imp pt, 2.4 US qt) 1.4 litre (2.4 Imp pt, 1.48 US qt)

Differential (automatic transmission) POWEIASLC CIN Oierccrse sree cs trnna ses cesettcatiaasee meron mars: ssarSascivtn scale eateee eam Cooling system: 1.3 litre engine 1.6 litre engine Fuel system

ee

0.8 litre (1.4 Imp pt, 0.8 US qt) 5.0 litre (8.8 Imp pt, 5.3 US qt) 6.0 litre (10.6 Imp pt, 6.3 US qt)

50.0 litre (11.0 Imp gal, 13.2 US gal)

Ib) Ib)

Use of English As this book has been written in England, it uses the appropriate English component names, phrases, and spelling. Some of these differ from those used in America. Normally, these cause no difficulty, but to make sure, a glossary is printed below. In ordering spare parts remember the parts list may use some of these words:

English

American

English

American

Accelerator Aerial Anti-roll bar Big-end bearing Bonnet (engine cover) Boot (luggage compartment) Bulkhead Bush Cam follower or tappet Carburettor Catch Choke/venturi Circlip Clearance Crownwheel Damper

Gas pedal Antenna Stabiliser or sway bar Rod bearing Hood Trunk Firewall Bushing Valve lifter or tappet Carburetor Latch Barrel Snap-ring Lash Ring gear (of differential) Shock absorber, shock

Leading shoe (of brake) Locks Methylated spirit Motorway Number plate Paraffin Petrol Petrol tank ‘Pinking’ Prise (force apart) Propeller shaft Quarterlight Retread Reverse Rocker cover Saloon

Primary shoe Latches Denatured alcohol Freeway, turnpike etc License plate Kerosene Gasoline (gas) Gas tank ‘Pinging’ Pry Driveshaft Quarter window Recap Back-up Valve cover Sedan

Disc (brake)

Rotor/disk

Seized

Frozen

Distance piece Drop arm Drop head coupe Dynamo Earth (electrical) Engineer's blue

Spacer Pitman arm Convertible Generator (DC) Ground Prussian blue

Sidelight Silencer Sill panel (beneath doors) Small end, little end Spanner Split cotter (for valve spring cap)

Parking light Muffler Rocker panel

Estate car Exhaust manifold Fault finding/diagnosis Float chamber Free-play Freewheel

Station wagon Header Troubleshooting Float bowl Coast

Split pin Steering arm Sump Swarf Tab washer Tappet

Wrench Lock (for valve spring retainer) Cotter pin Spindle arm Oil pan Metal chips or debris Tang or lock Valve lifter

Gearbox Gearchange Grub screw Gudgeon pin

Transmission Shift Setscrew, Allen screw Piston pin or wrist pin

Thrust bearing Top gear Trackrod (of steering) Trailing shoe (of brake)

Throw-out bearing High Tie-rod (or connecting rod) Secondary shoe

Halfshaft Handbrake

Axleshaft Parking brake

Transmission Tyre

Whole Tire

Hood

Soft top

Van

Panel wagon/van

Hot spot

Heat riser

Vice

Vise

Indicator Interior light

Turn signal Dome lamp

Wheel nut Windscreen

Lug nut Windshield

Layshaft (of gearbox)

Countershaft

Wing/mudguard

Fender

Lash

Piston pin or wrist pin

drive line

Buying spare parts and vehicle

identification

Buying spare parts Spare parts are available from many sources, for example: Toyota garages, other garages and accessory shops, and motor factors. Our advice regarding spare parts is as follows: Officially appointed Toyota garages — this is the best source of parts which are peculiar to your car and otherwise not generally available (eg complete cylinder heads, internal gearbox components, badges, interior trim etc). It is also the only place at which you should buy parts if your vehicle is still under warranty; non-Toyota components may invalidate the warranty. To be sure of obtaining the correct parts it will always be necessary to give the storeman your cars engine and chassis number, and if possible, to take the old part along for positive identification. Remember that many parts are available on a factory exchange scheme — any parts returned should always be clean! It obviously makes good sense to go straight to the specialists on your car for this type of part for they are best equipped to supply you. Other garages and accessory shops — these are often very good places to buy material and components needed for the maintenance of your car (eg oil filters, spark plugs, bulbs, fan belts, oils and grease,

numbers touch-up paint, filler paste etc). They also sell general accessories, usually have convenient opening hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home. Motor factors — good factors will stock all of the more important components which wear out relatively quickly (eg clutch components, pistons, valves, exhaust systems, brake cylinders/pipes/hoses/ seals/shoes and pads etc). Motor factors will often provide new or reconditioned components on a part exchange basis — this can save a considerable amount of money.

Vehicle identification numbers Modifications are a continuing and unpublicised process in vehicle manufacture quite apart from major model changes. Spare parts manuals and lists are compiled upon a numerical basis, the individual vehicle number being essential to correct identification of the compo-

nent required. The Vehicle Identification Number, stamped on a plate, is located on the rear bulkhead of the engine compartment. The number is repeated just inside the windscreen on the top of the facia panel and on the centre body pillar, on North American models. The Engine Number is located on the front face of the cylinder block.

~JT1EQAE8000011492

Bulkhead identification number

Main vehicle identification plate

Tools and working facilities /ntroduction

Repair and overhaul tool kit

A selection of good tools is a fundamental contemplating the maintenance and repair of owner who does not possess any, their considerable expense, offsetting some of the it-yourself. However, provided that the tools quality, they will last for many years worthwhile investment. To help the average owner to decide

requirement for anyone a motor vehicle. For the purchase will prove a savings made by doingpurchased are of good

and

prove

an

extremely

which tools are needed to carry out the various tasks detailed in this manual, we have compiled three lists of tools under the following headings: Maintenance and minor repair, Repair and overhaul, and Special. The newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit and confine himself to the simpler jobs around the

vehicle.

Then,

as

his

confidence

and

experience

grow,

he

can

undertake more difficult tasks, buying extra tools as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a Maintenance and minor repair tool kit can be built-up into a Repair and overhau/ tool kit over a considerable period of time without any major cash outlays. The experienced do-it-

yourselfer will have overhaul procedures

a tool kit good enough for most repair and and will add tools from the Specia/ category when he feels the expense is justified by the amount of use to which these tools will be put. It is obviously not possible to cover the subject of tools fully here. For those who wish to learn more about tools and their use there is a book entitled How to Choose and Use Car Tools available from the publishers of this manual.

Maintenance

and minor repair tool kit

The tools given in this list should be considered as a minimum requirement if routine maintenance, servicing and. minor repair operations are to be undertaken. We recommend the purchase of combination spanners (ring one end, open-ended the other); although more expensive than open-ended ones, they do give the advantages of both types of spanner. Combination spanners - 10, 11, 12, 13, 14 & 17 mm Adjustable spanner - 9 inch Spark plug spanner (with rubber insert)

Spark plug gap adjustment too/ Set of feeler gauges Brake bleed nipple spanner

Screwdriver - 4 in long x } in dia (flat blade) Screwdriver - 4 in long x + in dia (cross blade) Combination

Hacksaw

pliers - 6 inch

(junior)

Tyre pump Tyre pressure

gauge

Oil can Fine emery cloth (1 sheet) Wire brush (small) Funnel (medium size)

These tools are virtually essential for anyone undertaking any major repairs to a motor vehicle, and are additional to those given in the Maintenance and minor repair \ist. Included in this list is a comprehensive set of sockets. Although these are expensive they will be found invaluable as they are so versatile - particularly if various

drives are included in the set. We

recommend

the 4 in square-drive

type, as this can be used with most proprietary torque wrenches. If you cannot afford a socket set, even bought piecemeal, then inexpensive tubular box spanners are a useful alternative. The tools in this list will occasionally need to be supplemented by tools from the Special list. Sockets (or box spanners)

to cover range in previous /ist

Reversible ratchet drive (for use with sockets) Extension piece, 10 inch (for use with sockets) Universal joint (for use with sockets) Torque wrench (for use with sockets) ‘Mole’ wrench - 8 inch Ball pein hammer Soft-faced hammer, plastic or rubber

Screwdriver - 6 in long x 3 in dia (flat blade) Screwdriver - 2 in long x % in square (flat blade)

Screwdriver - 14 in long x + in dia (cross blade) Screwdriver - 3 in long x ¢ in dia (electricians) Pliers - electricians side cutters Pliers - needle nosed Pliers - circlip (internal and external)

Cold chisel - + inch Scriber Scraper Centre punch Pin punch Hacksaw Valve grinding

tool

Steel rule/straight-edge Allen keys Selection of files Wire brush (large) Axle-stands Jack (strong trolley or hydraulic type)

Special tools The tools in this list are those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturers’ instructions. Unless relatively difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken frequently, it will not be economic to buy many of

these

tools. Where

this is the case,

you

could

consider

clubbing

together with friends (or joining a motorists’ club) to make a joint purchase, or borrowing the tools against a deposit from a local garage or tool hire specialist.

Tools and working facilities

10 Pe ee ee SE The following list contains only those tools and instruments freely available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealer network. You will find occasional references to these manufacturers’ special tools in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the vehicle manufacturers’ special tool is given. However, sometimes, there is no alternative to using them. Where this is the case and the relevant tool cannot be bought or borrowed, you will have to entrust the work to a franchised garage. Valve spring compressor Piston ring compressor Balljoint separator Universal hub/bearing puller /mpact screwdriver Micrometer and/or vernier gauge Dial gauge Stroboscopic timing light

Dwell angle meter/tachometer Universal electrical multi-meter Cylinder compression gauge Lifting tackle Trolley jack Light with extension lead

Buying tools For practically all tools, a tool factor is the best source since he will have a very comprehensive range compared with the average garage or accessory shop. Having said that, accessory shops often offer excellent quality tools at discount prices, so it pays to shop around. Remember, you don't have to buy the most expensive items on the shelf, but it is always advisable to steer clear of the very cheap tools. There are plenty of good tools around at reasonable prices, so ask the proprietor or manager of the shop for advice before making a purchase.

Care and maintenance of tools Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is necessary to keep the tools in a clean serviceable condition. After use, always wipe off any dirt, grease and metal particles using a clean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away. Never leave them lying around after they have been used. A simple tool rack on the garage or workshop wall, for items

such

as screwdrivers

and pliers is a good

idea. Store all normal

wrenches and sockets in a metal box. Any measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc, must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged or become rusty. Take a little care when tools are used. Hammer heads inevitably become marked and screwdrivers lose the keen edge on their blades from time to time. A little timely attention with emery cloth, a file or grindstone will soon restore items like this to a good serviceable finish.

Working facilities Not to be forgotten when discussing tools, is the workshop itself. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some form of suitable working area becomes essential. It is appreciated that many an owner mechanic is forced by circumstances to remove an engine or similar item, without the benefit of a garage or workshop. Having done this, any repairs should always be done under the cover of a roof. Wherever possible, any dismantling should be done on a clean, flat workbench or table at a suitable working height. Any workbench needs a vice: one with a jaw opening of 4 in (100 mm) is suitable for most jobs. As mentioned previously, some clean dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as for lubricants, cleaning fluids, touch-up paints and so on, which become necessary. Another item which may be required, and which has a much more general usage, is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of at least z in

(8 mm). This, together with a good range of twist drills, is virtually essential for fitting accessories such as mirrors and reversing lights. Last, but not least, always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean, lint-free rags available, and try to keep any working area as clean as possible.

Spanner jaw gap comparison Jaw gap (in)

Spanner

table

size

in AF 0.250 mm 0.276 in AF ONS mm Wala Wa|0.315 in AF; = in Whitworth 0.344 mm 0.354 in AF OrS5 O mm 0.394 1 mm 0.433 in AF 0.438 in Whitworth; b|— = BSF 0.445 0.472 0.500 Nl= Salealy OF) ole >— oo 3 3 O52 t in Whitworth; lon ;oa = BSF 0.525 14 mm 0.551 2 in AF 0.563 15 mm Cros 2 in Whitworth; |e = BSE 0.600 2 in AF 0.625 16 mm 0.630 17 mm 0.669 in AF 0.686 18 mm 0.709 2 in Whitworth; aly ; s" BSF 0.710 0.748 0.750 0.813 in Whitworth; |=> in =| BSF 0.820 0.866 2mm in AF 0.875 in Whitworth; ;ale |pe BSF 0.920 Naas IANIFOIN 2se in AF 0.938 0.945 1.000 1.010 2 in Whitworth; olen = BSF 1.024 26 mm 1.063 15 in AF; 27 mm .100 = in Whitworth; 2 in BSF 25 12 in AF 181 30 mm .200 % in Whitworth; 3 in BSF .250 14 in AF .260 32 mm .300 ¢ in Whitworth; ol = BSF ihe! 18 in AF 7590 3 in Whitworth; 3alon i BSF 417 36 mm .438 1% in AF .480 % in Whitworth; 1 in BSF .500 14 in AF rOLo 40 mm; # in Whitworth .614 41 mm .625 12 in AF .670 1 in Whitworth; 13 in BSF .688 12 in AF 811 46 mm 813 18 in AF .860 1% in Whitworth; 14 in BSF TS Ae cSt Se 9 ee eee eee SS SE .875 12 in AF 1.969 50 mm 2.000 2 in AF 2.050 14 in Whitworth; 12 in BSF 2.165 55 mm 2.362 60 mm

General

repair procedures

Whenever servicing, repair or overhaul work is carried out on the car or its components, it is necessary to observe the following procedures and instructions. This will assist in carrying out the operation efficiently and to a professional standard of workmanship.

Joint mating faces and gaskets Where a gasket is used between the mating faces of two components, ensure that it is renewed on reassembly, and fit it dry unless otherwise stated in the repair procedure. Make sure that the mating faces are clean and dry with all traces of old gasket removed. When cleaning a joint face, use a tool which is not likely to score or damage the face, and remove any burrs or nicks with an oilstone or fine file. Make sure that tapped holes are cleaned, and keep them free of jointing compound if this is being used unless specifically instructed otherwise. Ensure that all orifices, channels or pipes are clear and blow through them, preferably using compressed air.

grease, water or other fluid before installing the bolt or stud. Failure to do this could cause the housing to crack due to the hydraulic action of the bolt or stud as it is screwed in. When tightening a castellated nut to accept a split pin, tighten the nut to the specified torque, where applicable, and then tighten further to the next split pin hole. Never slacken the nut to align a split pin hole unless stated in the repair procedure. When checking or retightening a nut or bolt to a specified torque setting,

slacken

Whenever an oil seal is removed from its working location, either individually or as part of an assembly, it should be renewed. The very fine sealing lip of the seal is easily damaged and will not seal if the surface it contacts is not completely clean and free from scratches, nicks or grooves. If the original sealing surface of the component cannot be restored, the component should be renewed. Protect the lips of the seal from any surface which may damage them in the course of fitting. Use tape or a conical sleeve where possible. Lubricate the seal lips with oil before fitting and, on dual lipped seals, fill the space between the lips with grease. Unless otherwise stated, oil seals must be fitted with their sealing

lips toward the lubricant to be sealed. Use a tubular drift or block of wood of the appropriate size to install the seal and, if the seal housing is shouldered, drive the seal down to the shoulder. If the seal housing is unshouldered, the seal should be fitted with its face flush with the housing top face.

Screw threads and fastenings Always ensure that a blind tapped hole is completely free from oil,

nut

or bolt

by a quarter

of a turn,

and

then

Locknuts, locktabs and washers Any fastening which will rotate against a component or housing in the course of tightening should always have a washer between it and the relevant component or housing.

Spring or split washers should always be renewed when they are used to lock a critical component such as a big-end bearing retaining nut or bolt.

Locktabs

Oil seals

the

retighten to the specified setting.

which

are folded

over to retain

a nut or bolt should

always be renewed.

Self-locking nuts can be reused in non-critical areas, providing resistance can be felt when the locking portion passes over the bolt or stud thread. Split pins must always be replaced with new ones of the correct size for the hole.

Special tools Some repair procedures in this manual entail the use of special tools such as a press, two or three-legged pullers, spring compressors etc. Wherever possible, suitable readily available alternatives to the manufacturer's special tools are described, and are shown in use. In some instances, where no alternative is possible, it has been necessary to resort to the use of a manufacturer's tool and this has been done for reasons of safety as well as the efficient completion of the repair operation. Unless you are highly skilled and have a thorough understanding of the procedure described, never attempt to bypass the use of any special tool when the procedure described specifies its use. Not only is there a very great risk of personal injury, but expensive damage could be caused to the components involved.

Jacking and towing To avoid repetition, the procedure for raising the vehicle in order to carry out work under it is not included before each relevant operation described in this Manual. It is to be preferred and it is certainly recommended that the vehicle be positioned over an inspection pit or raised on a lift. Where these facilities are not available, use ramps or jack up the vehicle strictly in accordance with the following guide and once the vehicle is raised, supplement the jack with axle stands.

Tool kit jack

Workshop jack This should preferably be of trolley type, but a hydraulic bottle or mechanical screw type jack is also suitable. To raise the front end, locate the jack under the mid-point of the engine mounting centre member. To raise the rear end, place the jack under the floor pan support which is located between the inboard ends of the suspension arms. Always supplement the jacks with axle stands.

This should be used for emergency roadside wheel changes only. To change a wheel, prise off the wheel trim and loosen, but do not

Towing

remove the roadwheel nuts. Engage the jack in the sill slot nearest the wheel being removed and raise the car until the tyre leaves the floor. Remove the nuts and lift the wheel from the hub. Refit by reversing the removal operations. Fully tighten the nuts after the weight of the car is on the wheels.

hooks, but remember to unlock the steering and be prepared for the need for harder brake pedal pressures as the servo will be inoperative. If the car is equipped with automatic transmission, it must not be towed in excess of 45 km/h (30 mph) or for more than 89 km (50 miles). It is recommended that where possible all vehicle recovery be

Spare wheel and jack location

Emergency

towing

may

be carried out using the front tie-down

carried out using a towing dolly or transporter.

Tool kit jack

Front tow hook

13

Recommended Component

lubricants

Lubricant type or specification

or system

API SE SAE 5W/30 to 20W/50

Engine (1)

Manual transmission

Automatic

and fluids

API GL4 or 5 SAE 75W/90 or 80W/90

(2)

transmission

multigrade depending upon climate

(3)

Dexron

automatic transmission

fluid

Dexron

automatic transmission

fluid

Power steering (5)

Dexron

automatic

fluid

Steering gear (6)

Molybdenum

Wheel

Multi-purpose

Differentia! (automatic transmission)

bearings (7)

(4)

transmission

disulphide grease grease

Brake and clutch fluid (8)

SAE J1703 DOT 3

Cooling system

Ethylene glycol antifreeze and water

(9)

Safety first! Regardless of how enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job at hand, take the time to ensure that your safety is not jeopardized. A moment's lack of attention can result in an accident, as can failure to observe certain simple safety precautions. The possibility of an accident will always exist, and the following points should not be considered a comprehensive list of all dangers. Rather, they are in-

tended to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safety conscious approach to all work you carry out on your vehicle.

Essential DOs and DON'Ts DON'T rely on a jack when working under the vehicle. Always use approved jackstands to support the weight of the vehicle and place them under the recommended lift or support points. DON’T attempt to loosen extremely tight fasteners (i.e. wheel lug nuts) while the vehicle is on a jack — it may fall. DON'T start the engine without first making sure that the transmission is in Neutral (or Park where applicable) and the parking brake is set. DON’T remove the radiator cap from a hot cooling system — let it cool or cover it with a cloth and release the pressure gradually. DON'T attempt to drain the engine oil until you are sure it has cooled to the point that it will not burn you. DON'T touch any part of the engine or exhaust system until it has cooled sufficiently to avoid burns. DON'T siphon toxic liquids such as gasoline, antifreeze and brake fluid by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin. DON'T inhale brake lining dust — it is potentially hazardous (see Asbestos below) DON'T allow spilled oil or grease to remain on the floor — wipe it up before someone slips on it. DON'T use loose fitting wrenches or other tools which may slip and cause injury. DON'T push on wrenches when loosening or tightening nuts or bolts. Always try to pull the wrench toward you. If the situation calls for pushing the wrench away, push with an open hand to avoid scraped knuckles if the wrench should slip. DON'T attempt to lift a heavy component alone — get someone to help you. DON'T rush or take unsafe shortcuts to finish a job. DON'T allow children or animals in or around the vehicle while you are working on it. DO wear eye protection when using power tools such as a drill, sander, bench grinder, etc. and when working under a vehicle. DO keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving

parts. DO make sure that any hoist used has a safe working load rating adequate for the job. DO get someone to check on you periodically when working alone on a vehicle. DO carry out work in a logical sequence and make sure that everything is correctly assembled and tightened.

DO keep chemicals and fluids tightly capped and out of the reach of children and pets.

DO remember that your vehicle’s safety affects that of yourself and others. If in doubt on any point, get professional advice.

Fire Remember at all times that gasoline is highly flammable. Never smoke or have any kind of open flame around when working on a vehicle. But the risk does not end there. A spark caused by an electrical short circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, or even by static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite gasoline vapors, which in a confined space are highly explosive. Do not, under any circumstances, use gasoline for cleaning parts. Use an approved safety solvent. Always disconnect the battery ground (—) cable at the battery before working on any part of the fuel system or electrical system. Never risk

spilling fuel on a hot engine or exhaust component. It is strongly recommended that a fire extinguisher suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires be kept handy in the garage or workshop at all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with water.

Fumes Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconsciousness and even death if inhaled to any extent. Gasoline vapor falls into this category, as do the vapors from some cleaning solvents. Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated area. When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions on the container carefully. Never use materials from unmarked containers. Never run the engine in an enclosed space, such as a garage. Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide, which is extremely poisonous. If you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air, or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the work area. If you are fortunate enough to have the use of an inspection pit, never drain or pour gasoiine and never run the engine while the vehicle is over the pit. The fumes, being heavier than air, will concentrate in the pit with possibly lethal results.

The battery Never create a spark or allow a bare light bulb near the battery. The battery normally gives off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive. Always disconnect the battery ground (—) cable at the battery before working on the fuel or electrical systems. If possible, loosen the filler caps or cover when charging the battery from an external source. Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery may burst.

Take care when adding water and when carrying a battery. The electrolyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be allowed to contact clothing or skin. Always wear eye protection when cleaning the battery to prevent the caustic deposits from entering your eyes.

Household current When using an electric power tool, inspection light, etc., which operates on household current, always make sure that the tool is correctly connected to its plug and that, where necessary, it is properly

grounded. Do not use such items in damp conditions and, again, do not create a spark or apply excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel

vapor.

Asbestos

Secondary ignition system voltage

Certain friction, insulating, sealing, and other products — such as brake linings, brake bands, clutch linings, torque converters, gaskets, etc. — contain asbestos. Extreme care must be taken to avoid inhalation of dust from such products since it is hazardous to health. \f in doubt, assume that they do contain asbestos.

A severe electric shock can result from touching certain parts ignition system (such as the spark plug wires) when the engine ning or being cranked, particularly if components are damp or the tion is defective. In the case of an electronic ignition system, the dary system voltage is much higher and could prove fatal.

of the is runinsulasecon-

Routine

maintenance

Refer to Chapter

13 for information on

Maintenance

1985 and later models

is essential for ensuring safety, and desirable for the

purpose of getting the best in terms of performance and economy from your car. Over the years the need for periodic lubrication — oiling,

Check and adjust dwell angle and ignition timing (Chapter 4, Sections 3 and 4)

greasing and so on — has been greatly reduced if not totally eliminated. This

has

unfortunately

tended

to

lead

some

owners

to think

that

because no such action is required, components either no longer exist, or will last forever. This is a serious delusion. It follows therefore that the largest initial element of maintenance is visual examination. This may

lead to repairs or renewals.

The

summary

below

gives a schedule

of routine

maintenance

operations. More detailed information on the respective items is given in the Chapter concerned. Use the time intervals where mileages covered are low.

At weekly

intervals

Check engine oil level (Chapter 1, Section 2) Check Check Check Check Check Check Check

brake reservoir fluid level (Chapter 8, Section 2) clutch reservoir fluid level (Chapter 5, Section 1) tyre pressures (Chapter 8, Specifications) battery electrolyte level (Chapter 10, Section 2) washer fluid reservoir levels operation of all lights, wipers, horn coolant level in expansion tank

Sections 8 or 9)

miles (38 600 km) or at two yearly intervals

Inspect Renew Renew Renew

rear brake linings for wear (Chapter 9, Section 4) fuel filter (Chapter 3, Section 3) transmission oil (Chapters 6 and 7, Section 2) differential oil (auto transmission) (Chapter 7) Check all emission control systems (N. America) (Chapter 3, Sections NOntons 1) Inspect and renew worn drivebelts (Chapter 2, Section 9) Tighten all steering and suspension nuts and bolts to the specified

(Chapter

3,

torque (Chapter 11, Specifications)

-

Check clutch pedal adjustment (Chapter 5, Section 2) Check brake hydraulic system pipes and hoses for leaks (Chapter 9,

Section

Check and adjust valve clearances (Chapter 1, Section 4) Renew spark plugs (Chapter 4, Section 10) Renew contact breaker points (Chapter 4, Section 2) Renew air cleaner element (Chapter 3, Section 2) Check all carburettor adjustments (Chapter 3) Check and clean positive crankcase ventilation system (Chapter 1, Section 3) Check clutch pedal adjustment (Chapter 5, Section 2) Check for wear in steering joints and suspension bushes (Chapter 11, Section 2) Inspect driveshaft joint boots for cuts and splits (Chapter 8, Section 4) Inspect exhaust system for corrosion and leaks (Chapter 3, Section 33) Check operation of throttle positioner system (Chapter 3, Section 18)

Every 24000

After first 600 miles (960 km) — new vehicles Check valve clearances (Chapter 1, Section 4) Check drivebelt tension (Chapter 2, Section 9) Check idle speed, mixture and fast idle adjustments

Every 12 000 miles (19 300 km) or annually

Every 48 000 miles (77 200 km) or at four yearly intervals

11)

Tighten all steering and suspension

bolts to specified torque (Chapter

11 Specifications)

Check charcoal canister (Chapter 3, Section

17)

Renew sealed type fuel filler tank filler cap gasket Check fuel evaporative control system (Chapter 3, Section

17)

Every 6000 miles (9600 km) or at six monthly intervals

Renew engine oil and filter (Chapter 1, Section 2) Check clutch pedal adjustment (Chapter 5, Section 2) Check disc pads for wear (Chapter 9, Section 3) Check power steering pump fluid level (Chapter 11, Section 2) Check steering balljoint boots for cuts, splits and general condition (Chapter 11, Section 2) Check transmission fluid level (Chapter 6, Section 2 or Chapter 7, Section 2) Check differential fluid level — automatic transmission (Chapter 7, Section 2) ; Clean and re-gap spark plugs (Chapter 4, Section 10)

Every 60 000 miles (96 000 km) or at five yearly intervals Renew Renew

the brake servo oil filter (Chapter 9, Section toothed timing belt (Chapter 1, Section 6)

13)

Every two years

Renew the brake hydraulic and clutch hydraulic fluid by bleeding (Chapter 5, Section 5; Chapter 9, Section 12) Renew the coolant in the engine cooling system (Chapter 2, Section 3)

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Clutch fluid reservoir

Engine oil sump drain plug

Topping up transmission oil

Transmission drain plug

Fault diagnosis /ntroduction

fault is indicated, look for loose or broken wires before digging out the

The vehicle owner who does his or her own maintenance according to the recommended schedules should not have to use this section of the manual very often. Modern component reliability is such that, provided those items subject to wear or deterioration are inspected or renewed at the specified intervals, sudden failure is comparatively rare. Faults do not usually just happen as a result of sudden failure, but develop over a‘ period of time. Major mechanical failures in particular are usually preceded by characteristic symptoms over hundreds or even thousands of miles. Those components which do occasionally fail without warning are often small and easily carried in the vehicle. With any fault finding, the first step is to decide where to begin investigations. Sometimes this is obvious, but on other occasions a little detective work will be necessary. The owner who makes half a dozen haphazard adjustments or replacements may be successful in

test gear.

curing a fault (or its symptoms), but he will be none the wiser if the fault recurs and he may well have spent more time and money than was necessary. A calm and logical approach will be found to be more satisfactory in the long run. Always take into account any warning signs or abnormalities that may have been noticed in the period preceding the fault — power loss, high or low gauge readings, unusual noises or smells, etc — and remember that failure of components such as fuses or spark plugs may only be pointers to some underlying fault. The pages which follow here are intended to help in cases of failure to start or breakdown on the road. There is also a Fault

-Diagnosis Section at the end of each Chapter which should be consulted if the preliminary checks prove unfruitful. Whatever the fault, certain basic principles apply. These are as follows:

Verify the fault. This is simply a matter of being sure that you know what the symptoms are before starting work. This is particularly important if you are investigating a fault for someone else who may not have described Don’t

overlook

it very accurately. the obvious.

For example,

if the vehicle

won't

start, is there petrol in the tank? (Don’t take anyone else’s word on this particular point, and don’t trust the fuel gauge either!) If an electrical

Cure the disease, not the symptom. Substituting a flat battery with a fully charged one will get you off the hard shoulder, but if the underlying cause is not attended to, the new battery will go the same way. Similarly, changing oil-fouled spark plugs for a new set will get you moving again, but remember that the reason for the fouling (if it wasn't simply an incorrect grade of plug) will have to be established and corrected. Don’t take anything for granted. Particularly, don't forget that a ‘new’ component may itself be defective (especially if it's been rattling round in the boot for months), and don’t leave components out of a fault diagnosis sequence just because they are new or recently fitted. When you do finally diagnose a difficult fault, you'll probably realise that all the evidence was there from the start.

Electrical faults Electrical faults can be more puzzling than straightforward mechanical failures, but they are no less susceptible to logical analysis if the basic principles of operation are understood. Vehicle electrical wiring exists in extremely unfavourable conditions — heat, vibration and chemical attack — and the first things to look for are loose or corroded connections and broken or chafed wires, especially where the wires pass through holes in the bodywork or are subject to vibration. All metal-bodied vehicles in current production have one pole of the battery ‘earthed’, ie connected to the vehicle bodywork, and in nearly all modern vehicles it is the negative (—) terminal. The various electrical components — motors, bulb holders etc — are also connected to earth, either by means of a lead or directly by their mountings. Electric current flows through the component and then back to the battery via the bodywork. If the component mounting is loose or corroded, or if a good path back to the battery is not available, the

circuit will be incomplete and malfunction will result. The engine and/or gearbox are also earthed by means of flexible metal straps to the body or subframe; if these straps are loose or missing, starter motor, generator and ignition trouble may result.

Fault diagnosis

21

NEGATIVE

18in. MIN

DISCHARGED BATTERY

BOOSTER BATTERY

H.12390.

Crank engine and check for spark. Note use of insulated tool to hold plug lead Jump start lead connections for negative earth vehicles — connect leads in order shown

sufficient

for

those

repairs

that

most

motorists

would

consider

attempting at the roadside. In addition a few items which can be fitted without too much trouble in the event of a breakdown should be carried. Experience and available space will modify the list below, but the following may save having to call on professional assistance: Spark plugs, clean and correctly gapped HT lead and plug cap — long enough to reach the plug furthest from the distributor Distributor rotor, condenser and contact breaker points

Drivebelt(s) — emergency type may suffice Spare fuses Set of principal light bulbs Tin of radiator sealer and hose bandage Exhaust bandage Roll of insulating tape Length of soft iron wire A simple test lamp is useful for tracing electrical faults

Assuming the earth return to be satisfactory, electrical faults will be due either to component malfunction or to defects in the current supply. Individual components are dealt with in Chapter 10. If supply wires are broken or cracked internally this results in an open-circuit, and the easiest way to check for this is to bypass the suspect wire temporarily with a length of wire having a crocodile clip or suitable connector at each end. Alternatively, a 12V test lamp can be used to verify the presence of supply voltage at various points along the wire and the break can be thus isolated. If a bare portion of a live wire touches the bodywork or other earthed metal part, the electricity will take the low-resistance path thus formed back to the battery: this is known as a short-circuit. Hopefully a short-circuit will blow a fuse, but otherwise it may cause burning of the insulation (and possibly further short-circuits) or even a fire. This is why it is inadvisable to bypass persistently blowing fuses with silver foil or wire.

Spares and tool kit Most vehicles are supplied only with sufficient tools for wheel changing; the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit detailed in Too/s and working facilities, with the addition of a hammer, is probably

Length of electrical flex Torch or inspection lamp (can double as test lamp) Battery jump leads Tow-rope Ignition waterproofing aerosol Litre of engine oil Sealed can of hydraulic fluid Emergency windscreen Jubilee’ clips Tube of filler paste If spare fuel is carried, a can designed for the purpose should be used to minimise risks of leakage and collision damage. A first aid kit and a warning triangle, whilst not at present compulsory in the UK, are obviously sensible items to carry in addition to the above. When touring abroad it may be advisable to carry additional spares which, even if you cannot fit them yourself, could save having to wait while parts are obtained. The items below may be worth considering:

Throttle cables Cylinder head gasket Alternator brushes Fuel pump repair kit Tyre valve core

One of the motoring organisations will availability of fuel etc in foreign countries.

be

able

to advise

on

Fault diagnosis

22

Carrying a few spares can save you a long walk!

Other fuel system

Engine will not start

Engine fails to turn when starter operated

Engine fires but will not run

Flat battery (recharge, use jump leads, or push start) Battery terminals loose or corroded Battery earth to body defective

Insufficient choke (cold engine) Air leaks at carburettor or inlet manifold

Fuel starvation (see Chapter 3) Ballast resistor defective, or other ignition fault (see Chapter 4)

Engine earth strap loose or broken

Starter motor (or solenoid) wiring loose or broken Automatic transmission selector in wrong position, switch

fault (see Chapter 3)

Poor compression (see Chapter 1) Major mechanical failure (eg camshaft drive)

or inhibitor

faulty

Ignition/starter switch faulty

Engine cuts out and will not restart

Major mechanical failure (seizure) Starter or solenoid internal fault (see Chapter 10)

Engine cuts out suddenly — ignition fault

Starter motor turns engine slowly Partially discharged battery (recharge, use jump start) Battery terminals loose or corroded Battery earth to body defective Engine earth strap loose Starter motor (or solenoid) wiring loose Starter motor internal fault (see Chapter 10)

leads, or push

Loose or disconnected LT wires Wet HT leads or distributor cap (after traversing water splash) Coil or condenser failure (check for spark)

Other ignition fault (see Chapter 4)

Engine misfires before cutting out — fuel fault Fuel tank empty Fuel pump defective or filter blocked

(check for delivery) Fuel tank filler vent blocked (suction will be evident on releasing cap) — not N. American cars with sealed cap Carburettor needle valve sticking Carburettor jets blocked (fuel contaminated) Other fuel system fault (see Chapter 3)

Starter motor spins without turning engine Flat battery Starter motor pinion sticking on sleeve Flywheel gear teeth damaged or worn Starter motor mounting bolts loose

Engine cuts out — other causes

Engine turns normally but fails to start

Serious

Damp or dirty HT leads and distributor cap (crank engine check for spark) Dirty or incorrectly gapped distributor points (if applicable)

and

No fuel in tank (check for delivery at carburettor) Excessive choke (hot engine) or insufficient choke (cold engine) Fouled

or

incorrectly

gapped

spark

plugs

regap)

Other ignition system fault (see Chapter 4)

(remove,

clean

and

overheating

Major mechanical failure (eg camshaft drive)

Engine overheats

ee ie ee ee Pe a a

/gnition (no-charge) warning light illuminated Slack or broken drivebelt — retension or renew (Chapter 2)

Fault diagnosis

23

CE

Ignition warning light not illuminated Coolant loss due to internal or external leakage (see Chapter 2) Thermostat defective Low oil level Brakes binding Radiator clogged externally or internally Electric cooling fan not operating

correctly

Engine waterways clogged Ignition timing incorrect or automatic Mixture too weak

advance

malfunctioning

Note: Do not add cold water to an overheated engine or damage may result

Low

Engine

noises

Pre-ignition (pinking) on acceleration Incorrect grade of fuel Ignition timing incorrect Distributor faulty or worn Worn or maladjusted carburettor Excessive carbon build-up in engine

Whistling or wheezing noises Leaking vacuum hose Leaking carburettor or manifold gasket Blowing head gasket

engine oil pressure

Gauge reads low or warning light illuminated with engine running Oil level low or incorrect grade Defective gauge or sender unit

Wire to sender unit earthed Engine overheating Oil filter clogged or bypass valve defective

Oil pressure relief valve defective Oil pick-up strainer clogged Oil pump worn or mountings loose Worn main or big-end bearings Note: Low oi/ pressure in a high-mileage

engine at tickover is not necessarily a cause for concern. Sudden pressure loss at speed is far more significant. In any event, check the gauge or warning light sender before condemning the engine.

Tapping or rattling Incorrect valve clearances Worn valve gear Worn timing belt Broken piston ring (ticking noise)

Knocking or thumping Unintentional mechanical Worn drivebelt

contact (eg fan blades)

Peripheral component fault (generator, water pump etc) Worn big-end bearings (regular heavy knocking, perhaps

under

load)

Worn

main bearings (rumbling

and knocking,

under load) Piston slap (most noticeable when cold)

less

perhaps worsening

Chapter 1 Engine Refer to Chapter

13 for Specifications and information on

1985 and later models

Contents CrankcaseavChullationnsyStelimsmeereetttsa

ce rtestentrs ce dicts:

UV RO OG Mees leremtr ricer tetera etre ais caxcyst a saiearevncostvecnenccsvsuuaea Tassteaveseeneioasanevs NialV.Galate athanelses conc ance sccnserst cgi cscsa dua chavesras avancnaandon ovaneenancarsaa teva nastavanacansenness

80 to 84°C (176 to 183°F) 95°C (203°F) Not less than 8.0 mm

(0.31

in)

Coolant capacity TSMC REinhI) Clee ce eos sees nccttey sare acters ves cab ic use visye casn en tavacdapeoush sasebevunenccetoenent 1.6 litre engine

5.0 litre (4.4 Imp qt, 5.3 US qt) 6.0 litre (5.3 Imp qt, 6.3 US qt)

Torque wrench settings

Nm lt 39

COO lA

MOUDA MO OMESeerceageeme yrsar aestas saves sosecto srech adesvaae teas cuesata deuece eas cust emsseh Nene

Coolant temperature

switch

Ibf ft 13 29

a

ee ot a Ll a ll a a i et ee tet General description 1 ee ee The cooling system is of thermo-syphon type with a belt-driven pump

and an electrically-operated

A remotely

sited

coolant

radiator cooling fan.

expansion

tank is located

within

the

engine compartment. The coolant in the cooling system supplies the car interior heater.

2

Maintenance

1 This consists of a regular visual inspection of the coolant level in the expansion tank and checking the coolant hoses for condition and their clips for security (photo). 2 The addition of coolant to the expansion tank should seldom if ever be required.

Chapter 2 Cooling, heating and air conditioning

51

3.2 Cylinder block drain plug

4

Coolant

mixtures

1

Plain water should never be used in the cooling system

as apart

from the risk of freezing, the inhibitors in the anti-freeze will prevent rust and corrosion, the latter being a problem in engines with a high proportion of light alloy. 2 Use a good quality ethylene glycol type of anti-freeze in a proportion of not less than 50% to protect down to -35°C (-32°F). 3. Even in climates where anti-freeze is not required, use a corrosion inhibitor in the water. 4 If topping up is ever required, always use a mixture made up in ‘similar proportions to the original.

5

Thermostat — removal, testing and refitting

Fig. 2.1 Expansion tank (early type) (Sec 2) 3. If regular topping up is needed, check for a leak in the system and rectify immediately. 4 At the intervals specified in Routine Maintenance, renew the

coolant/anti-freeze mixture). 5 Clean the radiator fins of dirt and flies using a cold water hose or compressed air.

3

1 Drain the cooling system. 2 Unbolt the thermostat housing cover and withdraw the thermostat (photo). 3 If the thermostat is suspectedof being faulty, suspend it in a container of water. Heat the water and check the opening temperature

and valve lift against those given in the Specifications Section at the beginning of this Chapter.

Cooling system — draining, flushing and refilling

1 Make sure that the engine is cool and remove the radiator and expansion tank caps. Set the heater temperature control to WARM. 2 Unscrew the radiator and cylinder block drain plugs (photos). 3 If the system has been regularly maintained, it may be refilled immediately. If it has been neglected and the coolant appears rusty or

discoloured then it must be flushed out by inserting a cold water hose in the radiator filler neck and flushing until the water flows clean from the drain plugs. 4 Tighten the drain plugs. 5 Refer to the next Section for anti-freeze mixture recommendations and then pour the specified quantity of anti-freeze into the radiator. 6 Top up the radiator slowly and preferably using rainwater. 7 (\f the level drops, top up with more coolant until it ceases. 8 Start the engine and run it at a fast idle speed for a few minutes. 9 Top up the radiator with coolant and fit the cap. 10 Fill the expansion tank half full with coolant containing the same proportion of anti-freeze to water as the main quantity. Fit the tank cap. 11

Check

the

coolant

level

in the

expansion

journey, and top up the tank if necessary.

tank

after

the

first

5.2 Thermostat housing

Chapter 2 Cooling,

52 4

Renew

the thermostat

if necessary

with one

of similar type, the

valve opening temperature being stamped on it. 5 Refit by reversing the removal operations making new cover gasket. 6 Refili the cooling system. ee

ee

6 Radiator — removal, ee

heating and air conditioning

sure to use a

ee repair and refitting ee

1 Drain the cooling system. 2 Disconnect the battery, then disconnect the leads from the radiator temperature switch. 3 If the car is equipped with automatic transmission, disconnect the fluid cooler hoses from the radiator. Be prepared for some loss of transmission fluid and cap or plug the hoses. 4 Disconnect the expansion tank hose. 5 Disconnect the leads from the radiator fan motor. 6 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the radiator (photos). 7 Unbolt the radiator upper fixing clamps (photo). 8 Withdraw the radiator upwards complete with electric cooling fan. Take great care not to damage the condenser on cars equipped with

air conditioning (photo). 9 If the radiator is suspected of being blocked, try reverse flushing it with a cold water hose inserted in its lower hose connecting stub while the radiator is inverted. -

4

6.7 Radiator fixing clamp

+

res

—

——

Sieinll

6.8 Removing radiator

nat

eres

6.6B Radiator bottom hose and clip

10 If this fails, use a chemical cleaner, but strictly in accordance with the maker's instructions. 11 The radiator is of the plastic tank type secured to the matrix by claw type clips and a sealing strip. The radiator can be dismantled to renew a leaking matrix, but this is a specialised job and it should be left to a radiator repairer.

12 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Fill the cooling system and check the fluid level of the automatic transmission if fitted.

53

Chapter 2 Cooling, heating and air conditioning

7

Radiator electric fan — removal

and refitting

1.

Disconnect

2 3 4

Remove the radiator grille (Chapter 12). Disconnect the fan motor leads. Unbolt the fan mounting struts from the radiator and lift the fan

the battery.

assembly from the engine compartment.

5

8

Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Fan Motor

Electric cooling fan — overhaul

1 With the fan assembly removed, unscrew the fan securing nut and pull the fan from the motor spindle. 2 Unscrew the mounting screws and separate the fan motor from the support frame. 3 If the motor is faulty obtain a new unit, no repair being possible as it is of sealed type.

Fan Shroud

Fan

Fig. 2.3 Radiator fan (1.3 litre) (Sec 8)

Fan Shroud

Fig. 2.4 Radiator fan (1.6 litre) (Sec 8)

Fan Motor

Chapter 2 Cooling, heating and air conditioning

54 a

A

9

Drivebelts — tensioning,

I er

el removal

ee

and refitting

SS Se ee eee es 1 It is very important to keep the drivebelts in good condition and correctly tensioned. 2 The number of drivebelts fitted will depend with which the engine is equipped.

6—8 mm

10—12

(0.24—0.32 in.)

(0.39 —0.47 in.) a

POWER STEERING

upon

the ancillaries

mm

ALTERNATOR gaia :

PUMP

(0.35 —0.47 in.)

COOLANT

PUMP

AIR CONDITIONER COMPRESSOR

IDLER

CRANK

Fig. 2.5 Drivebelt arrangements and deflections (Sec 9)

Crankshaft — coolant pump

9.3 Checking drivebelt tension

bolts and pull the pump completion.

away from the engine. Tighten the bolts on

Crankshaft — idler — air conditioner compressor

— alternator

3. This belt must be tensioned to give a deflection of between 10.0 and 12.0 mm (0.39 and 0.47 in) when depressed with moderate thumb pressure at the mid-point of the top run of the belt (photo). 4 To adjust the tension, release the alternator mounting bolts and the adjuster link bolt and pull the alternator away from the engine. Correct tensioning will be made easier if the bolts are only released sufficiently to allow the alternator to pivot stiffly. Tighten the bolts on completion.

Coolant pump — power assisted steering pump 5 Tension the belt to give a deflection of between 6.0 and 8.0 mm (0.24 and 0.32 in) when depressed with moderate thumb pressure at the mid-point of the top run of the belt. 6 To adjust the tension, release the pump mounting and adjuster link

7 This belt must be tensioned to give a deflection of between 9.0 and 12.0 mm (0.35 and 0.47 in) when depressed with moderate thumb pressure at the mid-point of the top run of the belt. 8 To adjust the tension, turn the adjuster bolt on the belt idler pulley.

Belt removal 9 To remove a drivebelt always slacken the tension right off and slip the belt over the pulley rim. If it is still too tight to come off, never prise

it with a tool, but press it against the pulley rim while turning the crankshaft. The belt will then ride up and over the pulley rim. Refit the belt in the same way. 10 If a brand new belt has been fitted, always re-check its tension after the first few miles of running after its initial stretch has occurred. 11 On later models, the drivebelts are of V-ribbed type. When fitting

V-ribbed Fig. 2.6 Alternative belt types (Sec 9)

belt

Chapter 2 Cooling, heating and air conditioning

Coolant 9.11 Multi-grooved type pulleys

55

Temperature

Gauge

45V

these belts it is essential that the ribs are all engaged in their pulley grooves (photo). 12 It will be obvious that where more than one drivebelt is fitted, removal of one provide access.

10

belt may

require the removal

of another

in order to

|Battery

il

Coolant temperature gauge and switch

1 If either unit is faulty or reads incorrectly, the electrical connections should first be checked for security. If these are in order, the units should be tested by substitution or if an ohmmeter and voltmeter are available, test them in the following way.

Fig. 2.9 Coolant temperature gauge (bi-metal type) test circuit with voltmeter (Sec 10)

Gauge 2 If the gauge is of coil type, disconnect the gauge lead suvstitute an earth lead with a test bulb as shown (Fig. 2.7).

and

3 Switch on the ignition and observe that the bulb illuminates and the gauge needle operates. 'f this does not happen, remove the gauge

and measure

the resistance between the terminals (Fig. 2.8)...

Terminals

Resistance

IG to TU TU to E

65 21

IG toE

46

(ohms)

4 If the resistances are not as indicated, renew the gauge. 5 If the gauge is of bi-metal type, connect a voltmeter to the gauge as shown (Fig. 2.9). Switch on the ignition and check that the needle vibrates near the 4.5V position.

Coolant ate

Ignition Switch _-

If this does not happen, remove

Temperature

the

Fig. 2.10 Coolant temperature gauge (bi-metal type) terminals (Sec 10)

Test Bu 3.4 W Nal

auge

9

Naa gauge and measure the resistance between terminals 1 and 2 which should be 55 ohms (Fig. 2.10). If the resistance is not as indicated, renew the gauge.

Sender switch

I

6

Using an ohmmeter measure the resistance between the switch

terminal and earth. At the specified resistance should be as follows (photo).

Fig. 2.7 Coolant temperature gauge (coil type) test lamp circuit

(Sec 10)

coolant

Coolant temperature

Resistance

5OZER(1222R) 111 52C (2392R)

189.4 to 259.6 24.19 to 28.11

temperature,

the

(ohms)

7 If the resistances are not as specified, drain the cooling system and renew the switch.

Chapter 2 Cooling, heating and air conditioning

56

eee S SS S 11 Fan thermostatic switch — testing ne If the switch is suspected of being faulty, drain the cooling system 1 and unscrew the switch from the radiator lower tank. Connect an ohmmeter to the switch terminals and then suspend 2 the switch in a container of water which is being heated. 3. Check that there is no continuity when the coolant is above 90°C (194°F) and there is continuity when it is below 83°C (181°F).

oe See 12 Coolant pump — removal, overhaul and refitting oe eee ee eee 1. Drain the cooling system. 2 Remove the coolant pump drivebelt. 3. Unbolt and remove the coolant pump pulley. 4 Unbolt and remove the coolant inlet pipe which runs from the rear of the coolant pump along the side of the cylinder block (photo). 5 Remove the engine oil dipstick and then unbolt and remove the dipstick guide tube. Plug the hole with a piece of rag. 6 Unbolt and remove the timing belt upper cover. 7 Unscrew the three fixing bolts and remove the coolant pump. 8 If the pump has been in use for a long time, it is recommended that it be Bente complete. If it is only required to renew a leaking shaft seal, obtain a repair kit and proceed in the following way.

‘ P : BO SC Co la nite mmpeialliie sender Impeller ee

Coalant

body. Locate

Locate a new O-ring seal in the cylinder block and bolt the pump

Pulley Seat

gE

the pump holes.

18

Coolant

gf

seal into the impeller. then press the impeller

into 19 20 21 22

Sec 10)

Coolant

is

Press the seal onto the bearing/shaft.

16 Insert a new packing piece and a new Lubricate the seal with a little neat antifreeze, onto the shaft (Fig. 2.16). 17 Locate a new gasket and fit the cover to the pump mounting bolts in their pump body

Fig. 2.11 Measuring caren of coolant temperature switch

85°C

Using a suitable tool press the pump bearing with impeller from pump body. Press the impeller from the pump shaft and then remove the seal. Commence reassembly with the pump warmed again to 85°C

(18 52k). 14 Press the bearing/shaft flush with the pump bgdy.

15

body.

in a container of water to approximately

|

Pump Body

Fig. 2.12 Exploded view of coolant pump (Sec 12)

Gasket

: O-Ring

,

—

.

of

sae

12.4 Coolant distribution pipe at rear of coolant pump es

Mounting

;

i

(Se

\ ‘ nae 12.18 Coolant pump O-ring &

i

Bolt

Coolant

Inlet

Pipe

Fig. 2.13 Coolant inlet pipe (Sec 12)

Fig. 2.14 Removing coolant pump cover (Sec 12)

Fig. 2.15 Fit a new packing piece (left) and seal (right) to the coolant pump impeller (Sec 12)

Fig. 2.16 Impeller setting on coolant pump shaft (Sec 12)

Chapter 2

58 ee

SSS

Se

Cooling,

heating and air conditioning

ee

13 Heating and ventilation system a a a A 1 The heater is fed by coolant from offers the choice of fresh air flow or fitted. 2 A four lever control panel is used

— description a od the engine cooling system and recirculated air. A blower fan is for the following purposes:

Air intake control to select either fresh or recirculated air Air flow control to vary the directional flow to floor, facia vents or windscreen demister outlets Temperature contro/ to vary the position of the coolant flow valve and in consequence the temperature level Blower fan control combines on/off switch with four position speed selector (photo)

3. Air enters the system through grilles just below the windscreen under the rear edge of the bonnet. Stale air is exhausted into the

luggage boot (Saloon) or through tailgate recess slots (Liftback).

FAN SPEED CONTROL

AIR INTAKE CONTROL 13.2 Heater coolant valve

Morr ia mH! coou a

WARM

CE RECIRC BQDFRESH VENT

BB/L

a

MHEAT MOEF

14

Heater — removal and refitting

Sead {

1

USE BI-LEVEL IN THIS RANGE

AIR FLOW CONTROL

TEMPERATURE CONTROL

1

Disconnect

2

Remove the glovebox and facia undercover (Chapter 12).

3

Remove

the

the battery.

centre

cluster

panel

and

the

radio

4

Remove

the heater control panel screws

10).

and having lowered the

panel, disconnect the control cables and blower switch

Fig. 2.17 Heater control panel (Sec 13)

14.4C Heater flap valve levers

(Chapter

Remove the heater to blower duct (photo). leads (photos).

5 Working within the engine compartment, drain the cooling system and disconnect the heater hoses at the bulkhead stubs. 6 Unbolt the heater mounting bolts and lower the unit to the floor.

14.6A Heater Recntns ai

14.6B Heater mounting nut

Chapter 2 Cooling, heating and air conditioning

14.6C Heater air duct seal

14.6D Heater footwell duct

14.7 Heater blower and flap valve cable

Take care not to allow coolant to damage the carpet. Disconnect the air ducts as the heater is lowered (photos). 7 The heater matrix may be removed by unscrewing and unclipping the heater casing. If the matrix is clogged or leaking, renew it. The blower motor may be removed after disconnecting its fixing bolts and

control cable (photo). 8 Refit by reversing the removal operations and adjust the controls in the following way.

Air inlet cable Set the control lever to FRESH AIR and the damper flap to fully open and connect the inner cable to the flap lever. Snap on the outer cable clip without moving the settings.

Air mix cables These should COOL position.

be set with

the damper

and

control

lever in the

Air flow (directional) cable This should be clipped with the damper and lever held in the VENT position.

Coolant valve cable 9

Clip the cables with the valve and lever in the COOL positions. Refill the cooling system, reconnect the battery.

15

Air conditioner — description

1 The air. conditioner is basically a combined heating and cooling unit. The control panel is similar to the one used for the heater only

with the addition of an air conditioner on/off switch.

Fig. 2.18 Heater air inlet control cable (Sec 14)

Fig. 2.21 Heater coolant control valve cable (Sec 14)

59

60 Liquid Line Tube Fan Shroud

Discharge Flexible Hose

& Ca

= Suction Tube

Compressor

©@

— Actuator

Suction Flexible Hose

ro

Receiver

&

Condenser

Liquid Line Tube

A/C Switch

Expansion Valve ermistor

Liquid Line

Ss

Low Pressure Switch

iW ' ' u

Fig. 2.22 Layout of air conditioner components (Sec 15)

=>

Amplifier |

Chapter 2 Cooling, heating and air conditioning 2 The main components of the system are the cooling unit mounted under the facia panel, a condenser located ahead of the radiator, a belt-driven

compressor,

an evaporator

and a receiver.

Compressor 1 Operate the switched on.

2

Switch

engine

Air conditioner — precautions and maintenance

1 For maximum efficiency, keep the windows closed when the air conditioner is in operation. 2 When climbing a long uphill gradient, the additional load with the compressor switched on may cause engine overheating. 3 Always keep the compressor drivebelt correctly tensioned and the fins of the condenser free from dirt, leaves and flies. 4 Occasionally check the refrigerant in the sight glass. If bubbles are apparent, refrigerant is required and this should be added by your

dealer or a competent

17

Air conditioner

Refer to WARNING,

Chapter

— removal

1, Section

minutes,

and disconnect

with

the

air conditioner

the battery negative

lead

lead.

3 4 cap 5

Discharge the system. Disconnect the two hoses from the compressor and immediately the openings to avoid the entry of moisture. Remove the radiator fan.

6

Release

the compressor

drivebelt tension.

7 Unbolt the compressor mountings and remove 8 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tension described in Section 9. 9 Recharge the system.

the unit. the drivebelt

as

Condenser

refrigeration engineer.

main components

for ten

off the engine

and the compressor

16

61

and refitting

5.

Alternator Stay

Idle Pulley

10 11 12 13 14

Discharge the system. Remove the radiator grille and bonnet lock strut. Disconnect the flexible hose from the condenser inlet stub. Disconnect the pipeline from the outlet stub of the condenser. Cap the openings immediately to prevent the entry of moisture.

Compressor Mounting Bracket

Compressor Drive Belt Fig. 2.23 Air conditioner compressor (Sec 17)

quid Line Tube me ——

Liquid Line Tube

Fig. 2.24 Condenser flexible hose (Sec 17)

Fig. 2.25 Condenser pipeline (Sec 17)

Batt

Chapter 2 Cooling,

62 15 16

heating and air conditioning ng. 28 Reassembly and refitting are reversals of removal and dismantli to be 29 If the condenser or receiver were renewed, then oil will need added to the compressor. Refer to your dealer.

Unscrew the four mounting bolts and remove the condenser. Refitting is a reversal of removal. Recharge the system.

Receiver 17 Discharge the system. 18 Disconnect the pipelines and cap the openings immediately prevent the entry of moisture. 19 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Recharge the system.

Thermistor to

Air conditioner cooler unit 20

Disconnect the battery negative lead.

21 Discharge the system. 22 Disconnect the pipelines from the unit and quickly plug all openings to prevent the entry of moisture. 23 Remove the glovebox and the facia under cover. 24 Disconnect the electrical leads. 25 Unscrew the four mounting nuts and three bolts and lift away the air conditioner. 26 Remove the amplifier. 27 The unit can be dismantled by extracting the casing clips and screws and unscrewing the thermistor screw.

18

Fig. 2.26 Thermistor and attachment screw (Sec 17)

Fault diagnosis

Symptom

Reason(s)

Cooling Overheating

Insufficient coolant in system Pump ineffective due to slack drivebelt Radiator blocked either internally and externally Kinked or collapsed hose causing coolant flow restriction Thermostat not working properly

Engine out of tune Ignition timing retarded or auto advance

malfunction

Cylinder head gasket blown Engine Exhaust Engine Brakes

not yet run-in system partially blocked oil level too low binding

Engine running too cool

Faulty, incorrect or missing thermostat

Loss of coolant

Loose

hose clips

Hoses perished or leaking Radiator leaking

Filter/pressure cap defective Blown cylinder head gasket Cracked cylinder block or head Leak into transmission fluid (automatic transmission)

Heater Heater gives insufficient output

Engine Heater Heater Heater

overcooled (see above) matrix blocked controls maladjusted or broken control valve jammed or otherwise defective

Air conditioner Bubbles observed in sight glass of receiver drier No cooling

Expansion valve frosted over on evaporator

Leak in system Low refrigerant level No refrigerant

Faulty or clogged expansion valve

Thermal Insufficient cooling

bulb leaking

Faulty expansion valve Air in refrigerant circuit Clogged condenser Receiver drier clogged Faulty compressor Compressor overfilled with oil

Chapter 3 Fuel and emissions control systems Refer to Chapter

13 for Specifications and information on

1985 and later models

Contents

Accelerator pedal and cable — removal, refitting and elClSLUT)IU race ta renee nONe eees ras SPER Sega Psa soscscunssteeteSehases cenmiereohons FAG OLECAWitthOre CCNAGK SV SCE MM tatetccs.aite cas catetscvadverctescst oresvareusws coseeee Air cleaner — servicing, removal and refitting ........cccccscsesesseeees ANTE BAWROLATOYryeVANS) VASEggViet ea neg oR J PUMA VeACCe] ShALOM, (UR AA/AI) aduenenscnacasensr yonsscocaseacbevarnsowerdonsases acsxe Sar FL LO tre tS SCHIP THOM aera seecneecebcaea sisestiscattaeeataste seees ehoeseeinaneseass Canouretton == hemOVall ame) EMU G .ccxcscerctereossavterarssseessteusvadecsevssavees: Carburettor fast idle speed — AdjUStMENt .......cccccceccesccecssesesseeseseesesees Carburettor (1.3 litre engine) — idle speed and mixture ACHUSMCoIMAM emer ty tio anaes? ance smi eemae ec aeecsevacrocaaiae sete isseae capeesucherssaeasee Carburettor (1.6 litre engine) — idle speed and mixture ACHP SEC Ilteres Sete etree a caatin: ote cathad,Vane sana oteMeTecrre ers roveeess ee ieee etne cts Carburettor (1.6 litre engine) — OVErhAUl ou... ceecsessesesseseseeeeeseeeeses Cansuretton (s3 (tre ENGime) — OVEMMAUehe.c. ccvscousssecsassseveesevecvesear ooane Carburettor throttle positioner — Setting .....cccccccccsessesseseesessessesteseeseees Gata lViiC COMM CLEC latrsrstenea s tkteve= dee

ne)

cm 3rd/4th

5th Selector

Selector

Fork

& ag

&

Fork

i

ZZ

Bolt and Lock Washer Fig. 6.10 Casing and selector components (Sec 6)

Rear

Output Shaft Cover

Output Shaft

Slotted Roll Pin Thrust Washer 1st Gear

Needle Roller Bearing

Synchronizer Baulk Ring

3rd Gear

Snap Ring 3rd/4th

Synchro

Needle Roller Bearing

Synchronizer

Ue ~.

Ring

(Ny) —sus Ring

Snap Ring

Needle Roller Bearing

4th Gear Rear Bearing

Needle Roller Bearing

Synchronizer Ring

Reverse Idler Gear

Rear Bearing Retainer

©

5th

Spacer

Idler Gear Shaft Fig. 6.11 Gears and shafts (Sec 6)

Synchro

Chapter 6 Manual

117

transmission

differential/final drive. Note that the side shaft with the deeper recess in the spider goes on the clutch housing side. Unscrew and remove the reversing lamp switch. 3 Unbolt and remove the front bearing retainer from within the

bellhousing using a Torx bit. 4 Using a dial gauge, measure and record the 5th gear endfloat. It should not exceed the specified limit of 0.65 mm (0.0256 in). 5 Unbolt and remove the bellcrank selector lever. Unscrew the lockbolt and selector lever assembly. 6 Push two of the dogs on the selector shafts to engage two gears simultaneously and then unscrew the output shaft nut. 7 Disengage the gears. 8 Unscrew the lockbolt from 5th speed selector fork. 9 Extract the circlip from the face of the 5th speed synchro hub. 10 Using a suitable puller, draw off 5th speed synchro unit with selector fork from the input shaft.

11 Remove 5th speed gear, baulk ring, split needle roller bearing and spacer from the input shaft. 12 Again using the puller, remove 5th speed driven gear from the output shaft, making sure to locate the puller claws behind the gear collar. 13 Remove the rear bearing retainer. 14 Extract the two bearing outer circlips. 15 Unscrew and remove the reverse idler gear shaft lock bolt. 16 Extract the circlip from 3rd/4th selector shaft. 17 Remove the four detent plugs, springs and balls. 18 Unscrew the sixteen bolts, tap off the transmission casing with a

plastic-faced

Winan?

Fig. 6.14 Removing 5th speed gear from output shaft (Sec 6)

vinx [

hammer from the bellhousing.

19 Unbolt and remove the reverse selector arm bracket. 20 Remove the reverse idler gear and shaft. 21 Extract the three circlips from the selector shaft. 22 Flatten the lockwasher tabs and unscrew the three bolts from the selector shaft dogs.

23

Withdraw 3rd/4th selector shaft and dog.

24 25 26

Using a pencil magnet, retrieve the two interlockballs. Withdraw 5th selector shaft with reverse selector fork. Remove 1st/2nd selector shaft.

Fig. 6.13 Unbolting selector lever assembly (Sec 6)

Fig. 6.17 Reverse idler gear (Sec 6)

118

transmission

Chapter 6 Manual

Fig. 6.22 Removing geartrains (Sec 6) 27 28 29 30

Withdraw 1st/2nd and 3rd/4th selector forks. Lift out the input and output shaft geartrains meshed Remove the differential/final drive. Remove the magnet.

31

Unbolt

7

Input shaft — dismantling

1

Inspect the gear teeth for wear or damage.

and

remove

together.

the oil receiver.

2 Check the 3rd and 4th gear clearance using a feeler gauge. If either gear clearance exceeds the specified limit, renew the gear (photo).

3rd gear 4th gear

0.40 mm 0.60 mm

(0.0157 in) (0.0236 in)

7.2 Checking input shaft 3rd/4th gear clearance

Fig. 6.21 5th speed selector shaft and reverse fork (Sec 6)

Fig. 6.23 Checking 3rd speed gear clearance (Sec 7)

Chapter 6 Manual

transmission

119

3 Extract the shaft circlip, support 4th speed gear and press the shaft out of the bearing and the gear. Remove the needle roller bearings and the synchro baulk ring. 4 5 Extract the circlip, support 3rd speed gear and press the shaft out

of 3rd/4th synchro hub. 6

Remove

the needle bearings and synchro baulk ring (photo).

Fig. 6.28 Pressing input shaft out of 3rd speed gear and 3rd/4th synchro (Sec 7)

7.6 Input shaft stripped

8 =

1

i

real .

:

2

Output shaft — dismantling Inspect the gear teeth for wear or damage.

Check the 1st and 2nd speed gear clearance using a feeler gauge.

If either gear clearance exceeds the specified limit, renew the gear.

1st speed gear 2nd speed gear

0.45 mm 0.50 mm

(0.0177 in) (0.0236 in)

Fig. 6.26 Pressing input shaft out of 4th speed gear and bearing

(Sec 7)

Fig. 6.27 Extracting input shaft synchro circlip (Sec 7)

Fig. 6.29 Checking 1st and 2nd speed gear clearance on output shaft (Sec 8)

Chapter

120

transmission

6 Manual

Fig. 6.30 Pressing output shaft from 4th speed gear and bearing (Sec 8)

3 Support 4th speed gear and press the shaft out of bearing. Retrieve the spacer. 4 Move 1st/2nd synchro sleeve to the 1st speed gear 5 Support 2nd speed gear and press the shaft out of speed gears. 6 Remove the needle roller bearing, spacer and baulk 7 Extract the shaft circlip. 8 Support 1st speed gear and press the shaft out of

the gear and position. 2nd and 3rd

ring. the gear and

1st/2nd synchro hub (photo). 9 Remove the baulk ring, needle roller bearing, thrust washer and its lockball (photo).

8.9 Output shaft stripped

Fig. 6.31 Pressing output shaft from 3rd speed gear (Sec 8)

Fig. 6.32 Pressing output shaft from 1st speed gear and 1st/2nd

synchro (Sec 8)

9

Gear selector lever assembly — dismantling

1 2 3 4 and 5

Extract the E-clip and remove the coil spring. Drive out the roll pins from the inner levers. Remove the selector levers and the interlock plate. Drive out the remaining roll pin and take off the lever, coil spring spring seat. Extract the circlip from the shaft and remove the boot.

10

Transmission

components

— inspection

1 The condition of the synchro unit will be fairly obvious from the gearchange history. If the gearchange has been noisy with the synchro ‘beaten’ during all but the slowest of changes then check the synchro for wear. 2 Place each baulk ring on the gear cone and twist it to feel for braking action. If none is evident or if the clearance between the baulk ring and the gear teeth is less than 0.6 mm (0.024 in), renew the baulk ring. 3 Place the selector fork in the synchro sleeve groove and check the clearance. 4 If it exceeds 1.0 mm (0.039 in), it is probably the fork which must be renewed owing to wear.

121

Fig. 6.33 Removing roll pins from gear selector inner levers (Sec 9)

Fig. 6.34 Removing interlock plate (Sec 9)

Fig. 6.36 Removing selector lever, coil spring and spring seat (Sec 9)

Fig. 6.37 Removing selector rod circlip (Sec 9)

Fig. 6.38 Removing selector rod boot (Sec 9)

Fig. 6.39 Checking baulk ring braking action (Sec 10)

Fig. 6.40 Checking baulk ring clearance (Sec 10)

_ Fig. 6.41 Check selector fork clearance in synchro sleeve groove (Sec 10)

Fig. 6.43 Output shaft (Sec 10)

Fig. 6.42 Input shaft (Sec 10) 24.870 mm

(0.9791 in)

C

26.470 mm diameter

30.970 mm

(1.2193 in)

A

(1.0421 in)

D

= 24.970 mm (0.9831 in) diameter

32.970 mm

diameter

diameter

diameter B

Fig. 6.35 Driving out selector lever outer roll pin (Sec 9)

B

(1.2980 in)

é;

37.970 mm (1.4949 in) diameter

C

31.970 mm

diameter

(1.2587 in)

Chapter 6 Manual

122

transmission

5 Check the shaft bearings. If they are worn or rattle, renew them after extracting them from the casing using a puller or slide hammer. Renew the oil seals as a matter of routine including the one for the speedometer driven gear. 6 Inspect the crownwheel and differential gears for worn teeth. If the bearings are slack, worn or damaged, they must be removed and new ones fitted. 7 Check the shaft journals. If they are worn below their minimum diameters, renew the shafts.

11

Input shaft — reassembly

1

Assemble

the 3rd/4th

synchro

hub and sleeve

Engine Side Vacuum servo mounting nuts Caliper CVlinGetemMOUlMulMG OOlte. csuwerscstesceetese:orercwecersceuceetatsntceachcnseysrestres Caliper torque plate bolts SAVACIEIEUNIG: (ONOXEY WNIANOLDS crs ococcee: cutee e-tcscpeareseanseesasesbeeacs nouoco6bI1cs5% annempaeaTaSL UNGORtSReE Flexible hose banjo bolts Rig aCe © mIlllit Surtanescebuaseet ten cacti oct tee

eer aes

aca

cs lcenaner asc aasidasisapee

1.0 mm

Nm S 12 2 24 88 i, 2S 103

mm mm

(7.874 in) (7.913 in)

(0.039

in)

(DOT 3) Ibf ft i 9 3) 18 65 lid 7 76

—

1

Chapter 9 Braking

44

General

system

description

The braking system is of four wheel hydraulic type with discs at the front and self-adjusting drums at the rear. The hydraulic circuit is of diagonally split type and incorporates a pressure regulating valve to prevent rear wheel lock up during heavy brake applications. A vacuum servo unit is fitted to all models. The handbrake is cable-operated to the rear wheels.

2

Maintenance

and inspection

1

At the weekly service check, inspect the brake hydraulic fluid level

in the translucent reservoir on the master cylinder. The level should be at, or just below the MAX mark, if not, remove the cap and top up (photo). 2 The addition of fluid should only be necessary very infrequently, just a small quantity to compensate for the displaced fluid as the friction linings wear. 3 Where large quantities of fluid are needed, look for a leak in the pipelines or hydraulic cylinders. A leak can often be overlooked at the rear of the master cylinder pushrod inside the car. This is caused by failure of the master cylinder seals.

4 Regularly inspect the condition of the hoses and pipes as described in Section 11. 5 At the specified intervals, check the disc pads and brake linings for wear as described

3

in the following Sections.

Disc pads — inspection and renewal

1. The disc pads are fitted with a wear indicator which takes the form of a thin plate which rubs against the disc when the friction material

2.1 Fluid reservoir cap and float

has worn down to 2.5 mm

(0.098 mm) and emits a squeaking noise.

2 Even so, it is recommended that the pads are inspected for wear at the intervals specified in Routine Maintenance and renewed if worn as the noise from the wear indicator can be confused with normal brake disc squeal. 3 To inspect the pads, raise the front of the car and remove the roadwheel.

4

Observe

provided

the thickness of the friction material

in the caliper.

Brake Hose

Installation Bolt

Torque Plate

Anti-Squeal Shim

Dust Boot Collar

Slide Bush

Retaining

Fig. 9.1 Disc brake components (Sec 3)

Clip

through the holes

Chapter 9 Braking

3.5 Withdrawing caliper cylinder

system

3.7A Withdrawing disc pad (inboard)

5 If the pads must be renewed, unbolt the caliper cylinder from the torque plate (photo). 6 Tie up the cylinder without disconnecting the hydraulic hose. 7 Withdraw the disc pads, the anti-squeal shim, the wear indicators and the support plates (photo). 8 Brush away all dirt and dust, but without inhaling it as it is injurious to health. 9 Fit new support plates and the new pads, with their wear indicator plates. 10 When fitting the wear indicators make sure that the arrows on them point in the rotational direction of the disc. 11. Fit the anti-squeal shim to the rear face of the outboard pad. 12 Untie the cylinder and using a flat tool depress the piston into it. This will cause the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir to rise, so

145

3.7B Withdrawing disc pad (outboard)

anticipate this by syphoning out some of the fluid. An old (clean) battery hydrometer or poultry baster is useful for this. 13 Fit the cylinder assembly carefully without trapping the dust excluding boot. Tighten the fixing bolts to the specified torque.

14 Fit the 15 Repeat 16 Apply against the

roadwheel and the operations the foot brake disc and then

lower the car to the floor. on the opposite front brake. two or three times to position the pads top up the fluid reservoir to the MAX mark.

4

Rear shoe linings — inspection and renewal

No-

From the brake backplate, prise out the inspection hole plug. Looking through the hole, check that the shoe lining is not less

RQ

Automatic Adjusting Lever Adjusting Shim

Wheel Cylinder

C-Washer

Rear Shoe

Parking Brake Lever

Backing Plate

Inspection Hole Plug Anchor Spring

Front Shoe

on

Adjusting Lever Spring

© Retainer

Shoe Hold-Down Spring

Fig. 9.2 Drum brake components (Sec 4)

Chapter 9 Braking

146

9 10

system Disconnect the anchor spring from the leading shoe (photo). From the trailing shoe, slip the handbrake cable out of the shoe

lever. 11 Remove the trailing shoe with strut. 12 From the trailing shoe unhook the adjuster lever spring (photo).

13 14

Remove the automatic adjuster strut with return spring. Prise out the C-washer, remove the shim and handbrake

lever from the trailing shoe. 15. Renew the shoes with factory re-lined ones. 16 Clean the automatic adjuster strut threads and apply high melting point grease. 17 Apply a smear of the same grease to the shoe contact points on the backplate and to the shoe anchor block.

18 Fit the handbrake lever to the new trailing shoe using the original shim and a new C-washer. Check the clearance between the shoe and lever which should be between O and 0.35 mm (O and 0.0138 in). Adjust if necessary with a different shim. Shims are available in three different thicknesses. 19 Once fitted, pinch the ends of the C-washer together to secure it.

Fig. 9.3 Method of releasing brake adjuster (Sec 4)

than the specified minimum.

If it is, renew

the shoes in the following

way. 3 Raise the rear of the car and remove the roadwheel. 4 Pull the drum from the axle flange. 5 If the drum is stuck tight, it may be necessary to insert a screwdriver into the inspection plug hole and turn the star adjuster wheel while the adjuster level is held away from its teeth. Tapped holes are provided for screwing in bolts to withdraw the drum (photo). 6 Brush away all dust and dirt taking care not to inhale it as it is injurious to health. 7 Disconnect the shoe upper return spring (photo). 8 Remove the shoe steady springs and pins. To do this, grip the cup on top of the spring with a pair of pliers, depress the cup against spring pressure

and turn

it through

cup, spring and pin (photo).

90°.

Release

the pressure,

remove

the

20 Fit the strut to the trailing shoe. 21 Connect the return spring and the adjuster lever spring. 22 Fit the trailing shoe to the backplate. As it is offered into position, connect the handbrake cable to the shoe lever. 23 Fit the shoe hold down spring and pin. 24 Connect the anchor spring between the lower ends of the shoes. 25 Offer the leading shoe to the backplate and connect the adjuster strut in its fully retracted state. 26 Fit the steady spring and pin to the leading shoe. 27 Connect the shoe upper return spring. 28 Have an assistant operate the handbrake while you check the automatic adjuster operates correctly. 29 Fit the drum and the roadwheel. 30 Repeat the operations on the opposite brake. 31 Operate the handbrake lever in the car several times fully until a ‘clicking’ sound can no longer be heard. This indicates that the shoes are fully adjusted within the drums.

4.7 Shoe upper return spring

4.9 Shoe lower anchor spring

Fig. 9.4 Disconnecting anchor spring from

leading shoe (Sec 4)

Fig. 9.5 Releasing handbrake cable from trailing shoe (Sec 4)

147

Fig. 9.6 Unhooking adjuster lever spring from trailing shoe

4.12 Adjuster lever spring

(Sec 4)

Fig. 9.7 Removing automatic adjuster and spring (Sec 4)

Fig. 9.8 Removing shoe lever C-washer (Sec 4)

Fig. 9.9 Grease application points on automatic adjuster (Sec 4)

Shim

Clearance

Fig. 9.11 Checking shoe to lever clearance (Sec 4)

Fig. 9.12 Securing shoe lever C-washer (Sec 4)

Chapter 9 Braking system

148

eee Caliper — removal, overhaul and refitting 5 EE e ee SS 1 Raise the front of the car and remove the roadwheel. Disconnect the fluid line at the banjo type union on the caliper. 2 Either allow the fluid to drain or place a small rubber disc each side of the union and hold them with a pair of self-locking grips. Unscrew the two caliper cylinder mounting bolts and withdraw the 3. cylinder (photo). i

¢

Fig. 9.13 Extracting caliper piston seal (Sec 5)

5.3 Caliper cylinder bolt

4 Clean away external dirt and pull out the slide bushes, dust excluding boots and collars. 5 Prise off the piston dust excluder retaining ring and remove the dust excluder. 6 Apply air pressure to the fluid entry hole in the cylinder body and eject the piston. Quite low air pressure is all that is required from a hand or foot-operated tyre pump. 7 Examine the surfaces of the piston and cylinder bore. If they are scored, corroded or show evidence of metal to metal rubbed areas, renew the complete assembly. 8 If these components are in good condition, discard the seal and dust excluder and obtain new ones which are supplied in the form of a repair kit. 9 Fit the new piston seal, manipulating it into its groove using the fingers only. 10 Dip the piston in clean hydraulic fluid and insert it into the cylinder. 11 Fit the dust excluder and retaining ring. 12 Refit the slide bushes, boots and collars. 13 Fit the caliper, screw in and tighten the mounting bolts to the specified torque. Reconnect the hydraulic hose. 14 Bleed the hydraulic circuit as described in Section 12.

6

Fig. 9.14 Checking disc run-out (Sec 6)

mounting flange. In this event, apply freeing fluid or screw in two bolts into the tapped holes provided to force it from the hub (photos). 6 Remove the rust with abrasive cloth or by the application of rust removal fluid. 7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Make sure that any protective coating is cleaned from a new disc before fitting it.

Brake disc — inspection and renovation

_ 1 Whenever the disc pads are being checked for wear, inspect the disc for deep scoring or cracks. 2 It may be possible to have the disc re-finished provided the thickness is not reduced below new disc will have to be fitted.

the minimum

specified

otherwise

a

3 If the disc is suspected of being distorted, check it using a dial gauge with the stylus positioned 10.0 mm (0.39 in) from the outer edge. Alternatively, use feeler blades between the disc and a fixed point while the disc is slowly turned. 4 To remove a disc, jack up the car, remove the roadwheel. 5 Unbolt the caliper and tie it up out of the way. Unbolt and remove the caliper torque plate. Pull the brake disc from the hub. The disc is sometimes difficult to remove owing to its rusting onto its hub

6.5A Caliper torque plate bolts

Chapter

9 Braking

7

system

149

Rear hydraulic wheel cylinder — removal, overhaul and refitting

1 Raise the rear of the car and remove the roadwheel. 2 Disconnect the hydraulic line from the wheel cylinder and cap the open end of the pipe to prevent loss of fluid. 3 Remove the brake drum. 4 Prise the upper ends of the shoes apart so that the wheel cylinder can be unbolted and removed from the backplate. 5 Clean external dirt from the cylinder, pull off the dust excluding boots and shake out the pistons and springs. If necessary, apply air pressure from a tyre pump to eject them. 6 Inspect the piston and cylinder bore surfaces. If they are scored, corroded or show evidence of metal to metal rubbed areas, renew the wheel cylinder complete.

7

\|f however, these components

are in good condition, discard the

seals and boots and obtain new ones which are supplied in the form of a repair kit. 8 Clean all components in clean hydraulic fluid or methylated spirit — nothing else. 9 Manipulate the new seals into position using the fingers only and lubricate them with clean hydraulic fluid.

6.5B Removing caliper torque plate

10 Fit the pistons and boots. 11

Bolt the

cylinder

to the backplate,

reconnect

the hydraulic

pipe

and refit the brake drum. 12 Fit the roadwheel, lower the car and bleed the hydraulic system as described in Section 12.

OD &

—9 HfoD Boot

WY

“4

Cup Seal

Spring

Fig. 9.15 Components of rear wheel cylinder (Sec 7)

Piston Cup 6.5C Using bolts to withdraw

Piston

Seal

brake disc

Fig. 9.16 Rear wheel cylinder seals showing direction of lips

(Sec 7)

8

Brake

drum — inspection and renovation

1 Whenever the brake drum is removed to check the shoe linings, take the opportunity to inspect the interior friction surfaces of the drum. 2 \f the drums are deeply scored or grooved owing to rubbing of the shoes then it may be possible to have the drum re-finished provided

the internal diameter of the drum does not exceed the specified maximum. 3. The drum can also be checked for distortion and if necessary

6.5D Removing brake disc

rectified in a similar way. 4

Removal and refitting of the brake drum is described in Section 4.

150

Chapter

9

Braking

system

Fig. 9.17 Checking brake drum for distortion (Sec 8)

9

Master cylinder — removal, overhaul and refitting

1 Disconnect cap switch.

the electrical

9.3 Master cylinder and vacuum servo

lead from the master cylinder reservoir

2 Syphon out the fluid with a syringe. 3 Disconnect the two hydraulic pipes from the master cylinder. Cap the open ends of the pipes (photo). 4 Unscrew the two mounting nuts and withdraw the master cylinder from the servo unit. Note the gasket. 5 Clean away external dirt. 6 Extract the small screw cylinder.

and

remove

the

reservoir

Connector

from

7 Secure the master cylinder by gripping its flange in the jaws of a vice. 8 Depress the pistons with a screwdriver, then unscrew and remove the stop bolt.

the

Gasket

Gasket

Master Cylinder

Connector

Fig. 9.18 Master cylinder connections (Sec 9)

Chapter 9 Braking system

151

Cap

Gre5) Strainer

Snap Ring

Reservoir

Grommet

aa

Primary

Boot Piston and Spring

Secondary Piston and Spring

Cylinder Housing

Piston Stop

Bolt

Fig. 9.19 Exploded view of master cylinder (Sec 9)

Fig. 9.20 Removing master cylinder piston stop screw (Sec 9)

Fig. 9.21 Extracting master cylinder piston circlip (Sec 9)

9 Keep the pistons depressed and extract the circlip. 10 Tap the end of the cylinder body on a block of hardwood to eject the pistons and springs. 11 Examine the surfaces of the pistons and cylinder bore. If they are corroded, scored or show evidence of metal to metal rubbed areas, renew the master cylinder complete. 12 Where these components are in good condition, discard the old seals and obtain new ones which are supplied in the form of a repair

COPTER OTS s.c2BE A veinsnesvvs oe oosce ina tems nun ras tuaesers cvateee re tay nce oneeaestesm ere reee

9 28 22

De na ony SeaDoo .........c:cceeeeeseeseeeteeeneeees ........ceeeeeteeeceseeneeeeereees refitting .........

21 Pai 15 25

16 13 10

17 panel — removal and refitting ........... iat door — dismantling and reassembly seat —nemovaleamCmneitthi) Gpmryrsneseesserace-seerscedeen'=creteaveeneeevenaters 18 screevg 9 sremovallealnel aretitel G|ecssmtesssenesecsesdsarssssisadsorsseneaneeer vigil

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29,

GemenalacleScnitlo lnbweseseeese cee ceese ce tae eae bese ee Name Grabuhandles—

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tne-cee eraaeater 20 FC AGHCSTS eeeeenrdrecseanstarseecsvevoncunse sunceenotesacs cuceh acest enreatte Luggage

refitting and adjustment ...............0.

boot lid — removal,

light (Liftback) — removal

peed

Centre console — removal and refitting ..... Door — removal and refitting ..........ceeee Door trim panel — removal and refitting ... Facia Front FLOmt Front

WA

cic arene che crest ee S Sat Slt Ses, Pe eee Sunroof — removal, refitting and AGjUSTMENT Tailgate — removal, refitting ANd ACjUSTMENT Tailgate or rear window glass — removal and

Tirirva ave! vrvoull hits webnceteseses sess Upholstery

Windscreen

and

carpets

sees cece eee eae a aen ae eae

23

— MAINTENANCE ........... cece esseeeeteeteeteeteeeees

3

e.crsesses. eeenneeeneoseoneemteeryeee see removalllaiia) fenrttingjis.an

24

14

a

Specifications For dimensions,

1.

General

weights etc refer to the Introductory Section of this Manual.

descrintion

The body is of all-steel unitary construction available in five-door Saloon or Liftback (Hatchback) versions. The

rear seat backs on all models

objects can be accommodated

2

Bodywork

and underframe

are of ‘split’ type so that long

even on Saloon versions.

— maintenance

The general condition of a vehicle’s bodywork is the one thing that significantly affects its value. Maintenance is easy but needs to be regular. Neglect, particularly after minor damage, can lead quickly to further deterioration and costly repair bills. It is important also to keep watch on those parts of the vehicle not immediately visible, for instance the underside,

inside all the wheel arches and the lower part

considering the use of such wax-based protection for injection into door panels, sills, box sections, etc, as an additional safeguard against rust damage. After washing paintwork, wipe off with a chamois leather to give an unspotted clear finish. A coat of clear protective wax polish will give added protection against chemical pollutants in the air. If the paintwork sheen has dulled or oxidised, use a cleaner/polisher combination to restore the brilliance of the shine. This requires a little effort, but such dulling is usually caused because regular washing has been neglected. Care needs to be taken with metallic paintwork, as special non-abrasive cleaner/polisher is required to avoid damage to the finish. Always check that the door and ventilator opening drain holes and pipes are completely clear so that water can be drained out. Bright work should be treated in the same way as_ paintwork. Windscreens and windows can be kept clear of the smeary film which often appears by the use of a proprietary glass cleaner. Never use any form of wax or other body or chromium polish on glass.

of the engine compartment. The

basic

maintenance

routine

for the

bodywork

is washing

—

preferably with a lot of water, from a hose. This will remove all the loose solids which may have stuck to the vehicle. It is important to flush these off in such a way as to prevent grit from scratching the finish. The wheel arches and underframe need washing in the same way to remove any accumulated mud which will retain moisture and tend to encourage rust. Paradoxically enough, the best time to clean the underframe and wheel arches is in wet weather when the mud is thoroughly wet and soft. In very wet weather the underframe is usually cleaned of large accumulations automatically and this is a good time for inspection. Periodically, except on vehicles with a wax-based underbody protective coat, it is a good idea to have the whole of the underframe of the vehicle steam cleaned, engine compartment included, so that a thorough inspection can be carried out to see what minor repairs and renovations are necessary. Steam cleaning is available at many garages and is necessary for removal of the accumulation of oily grime which sometimes is allowed to become thick in certain areas. If steam cleaning

facilities are

not available,

there

are one

or two

excellent

grease solvents available which can.be brush applied. The dirt can then be simply hosed off. Note that these methods should not be used on vehicles with wax-based underbody protective coating or the coating will be removed. Such vehicles should be inspected annually, preferably just prior to winter, when the underbody should be washed down and any damage to the wax coating repaired. Ideally, a completely

fresh

coat

should

be applied.

It would

also

be worth

2.4A Door drain hole

Chapter

12

Bodywork

and fittings

199

of the stopper-paste in the scratch; this will ensure that the surface of the stopper-paste is slightly hollowed. The scratch can now be painted over as described earlier in this Section.

Repair of dents in bodywork When deep denting of the vehicle’s bodywork has taken place, the first task is to pull the dent out, until the affected bodywork almost attains its original shape. There is little point in trying to restore the original shape completely, as the metal in the damaged area will have stretched on impact and cannot be reshaped fully to its original contour. It is better to bring the level of the dent up to a point which

is about % in (3 mm) below the level of the surrounding bodywork. In

2.4B Sill drain hole

3

Upholstery

and carpets — maintenance

Mats and carpets should be brushed or vacuum to keep them

cleaned regularly

free of grit. If they are badly stained remove

them from

the vehicle for scrubbing or sponging and make quite sure they are dry before refitting. Seats and interior trim panels can be kept clean by wiping with a damp cloth. If they do become stained (which can be more apparent on light coloured upholstery) use a little liquid detergent and a soft nail brush to scour the grime out of the grain of the material. Do not forget to keep the headlining clean in the same way as the upholstery. When using liquid cleaners inside the vehicle do not over-wet the surfaces being cleaned. Excessive damp could get into the seams and padded interior causing’stains, offensive odours or even rot. If the inside of the vehicle gets wet accidentally it is worthwhile taking some trouble to dry it out properly, particularly where carpets are involved. Do not /eave oil or electric heaters inside

the vehicle for this purpose.

4

Minor body damage — repair

The photographic sequences on pages 206 and 207 illustrate the operations detailed in the following sub-sections.

Repair of minor scratches in bodywork — | If the scratch is very superficial, and does not penetrate to the metal of the bodywork, repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area of the scratch with a paintwork renovator, or a very fine cutting paste, to remove loose paint from the scratch and to clear the surrounding bodywork of wax polish. Rinse the area with clean water. Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using a fine paint brush; continue to apply fine layers of paint until the surface of the paint in the scratch is level with the surrounding paintwork. Allow the new paint at least two weeks to harden: then blend it into the surrounding paintwork by rubbing the scratch area with a paintwork renovator or a very fine cutting paste. Finally, apply wax polish. Where the scratch has penetrated right through to the metal of the bodywork, causing the metal to rust, a different repair technique is required. Remove any loose rust from the bottom of the scratch with a penknife, then apply rust inhibiting paint to prevent the formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber or nylon applicator fill the scratch with bodystopper paste. If required, this paste can be mixed with cellulose thinners to provide a very thin paste which is ideal for filling narrow scratches. Before the stopper-paste in the scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth cotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip the finger in cellulose thinners and then quickly sweep it across the surface

cases where the dent is very shallow anyway, it is not worth trying to pull it out at all. If the underside of the dent is accessible, it can be hammered out gently from behind, using a mallet with a wooden or plastic head. Whilst doing this, hold a suitable block of wood firmly against the outside of the panel to absorb the impact from the hammer blows and thus prevent a large area of the bodywork from being ‘belled-out’. Should the dent be in a section of the bodywork which has a double skin or some other factor making it inaccessible from behind, a different technique is called for. Drill several small holes through the metal inside the area — particularly in the deeper section. Then screw long self-tapping screws into the holes just sufficiently for them to gain a good purchase in the metal. Now the dent can be pulled out by pulling on the protruding heads of the screws with a pair of pliers. The next stage of the repair is the removal of the paint from the damaged area, and from an inch or so of the surrounding ‘sound’ bodywork. This is accomplished most easily by using a wire brush or abrasive pad on a power drill, although it can be done just as effectively by hand using sheets of abrasive paper. To complete the preparation for filling, score the surface of the bare metal with a screwdriver or the tang of a file, or alternatively, drill small holes in the affected area. This will provide a really good ‘key’ for the filler paste. To complete the repair see the Section on filling and re-spraying.

Repair of rust holes or gashes in bodywork Remove all paint from the affected area and from an inch or so of the surrounding ‘sound’ bodywork, using an abrasive pad or a wire brush on a power drill. If these are not available a few sheets of abrasive paper will do the job just as effectively. With the paint removed you will be able to gauge the severity of the corrosion and therefore decide whether to renew the whole panel (if this is possible) or to repair the affected area. New body panels are not as expensive as most people think and it is often quicker and more satisfactory to fit a new panel than to attempt to repair large areas of corrosion.

Remove all fittings from the affected area except those which will act as a guide to the original shape of the damaged bodywork (eg headlamp shells etc). Then, using tin snips or a hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and any other metal badly affected by corrosion. Hammer the edges of the hole inwards in order to create a slight depression for the filler paste. Wire brush the affected area to remove the powdery rust from the surface of the remaining metal. Paint the affected area with rust inhibiting paint; if the back of the rusted area is accessible treat this also. Before filling can take place it will be necessary to block the hole in some way. This can be achieved by the use of aluminium or plastic mesh, or aluminium tape. Aluminium or plastic mesh is probably the best material to use for a large hole. Cut a piece to the approximate size and shape of the hole to be filled, then position it in the hole so that its edges are below the level of the surrounding bodywork. It can be retained in position by several blobs of filler paste around its periphery. Aluminium tape should be used for small or very narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll and trim it to the approximate size and shape

required, then pull off the backing paper (if used) and stick the tape over the hole; it can be overlapped if the thickness of one piece is insufficient. Burnish down the edges of the tape with the handle of a screwdriver or similar, to ensure that the tape is securely attached to

the metal underneath.

Bodywork repairs — filling and re-spraying Before using this Section, see the Sections on dent, deep scratch, rust holes and gash repairs. Many types of bodyfiller are available, but generally speaking

Chapter

200 those

proprietary

kits which

Bodywork

12

contain a tin of filler paste and a tube of

resin hardener are best for this type of repair. A wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will be found invaluable for imparting a smooth and well contoured finish to the surface of the filler. Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card or board — measure the hardener carefully (follow the maker's instructions on the pack) otherwise the filler will set too rapidly or too slowly. Using the applicator apply the filler paste to the prepared area; draw the applicator across the surface of the filler to achieve the correct contour and to level the filler surface. As soon as a contour that approximates to the correct one is achieved, stop working the paste — if you carry on too long the paste will become sticky and begin to ‘pick up’ on the applicator. Continue to add thin layers of filler paste at twenty-minute intervals until the level of the filler is just proud of the surrounding bodywork. Once the filler has hardened, excess can be removed using a metal plane or file. From then on, progressively finer grades of abrasive paper should be used, starting with a 40 grade production paper and finishing with 400 grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrap the abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork, or wooden block — otherwise the surface of the filler will not be completely flat. During the smoothing of the filler surface the wet-and-dry paper should be periodically rinsed in water. This will ensure that a very smooth finish is imparted to the filler at the final stage. At this stage the ‘dent’ should be surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in turn should be encircled by the finely ‘feathered’ edge of the good paintwork. Rinse the repair area with clean water, until all of the dust produced by the rubbing-down operation has gone. Spray the whole repair area with a light coat of primer — this will show up any imperfections in the surface of the filler. Repair these imperfections with fresh filler paste or bodystopper, and once more smooth the surface with abrasive paper. If bodystopper is used, it can be mixed with cellulose thinners to form a really thin paste which is ideal for filling small holes. Repeat this spray and repair procedure until

and fittings

e SS e 2 6

Radiator grille — removal

1

Open

4

Refit by locating on the clips and then pressing the grille until the

and refitting

the bonnet.

Insert a screwdriver through the slats of the grille and raise the 2 tongues of the securing clips (photo). 3 Pull the grille forward and remove it. clip tongues

lock (photo).

* Bs iS

6.2 Releasing radiator grille fixing clip

you are satisfied that the surface of the filler, and the feathered edge of the paintwork are perfect. Clean the repair area with clean water and allow to dry fully. The repair area is now ready for final spraying. Paint spraying must be carried out in a warm, dry, windless and dust free atmosphere. This condition can be created artificially if you have access to a large indoor working area, but if you are forced to work in the open, you will have to pick your day very carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing the floor in the work area with water will help to settle the dust which would otherwise be in the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined to one body panel, mask off the surrounding panels; this will help to minimise the effects of a slight mis-match in paint colours. Bodywork

fittings (eg chrome strips, door handles etc) will also need to be masked off. Use genuine masking tape and several thicknesses of newspaper

for the masking operations.

Before commencing to spray, agitate the aerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area (an old tin, or similar) until the technique is mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick coat of primer; the thickness should be built up using several thin layers of paint rather than one thick one. Using 400 grade wet-and-dry paper, rub down the surface of the primer until it is really smooth. While doing this, the work area should be thoroughly doused with water, and the wet-anddry paper periodically rinsed in water. Allow to dry before spraying on more paint. Spray on the top coat, again building up the thickness by using several thin layers of paint. Start spraying in the centre of the repair area and then, using a circular motion, work outwards until the whole repair area and about 2 inches of the surrounding original paintwork is covered. Remove

all masking material

10 to 15 minutes after spraying

on the final coat of paint. Allow the new paint at least two weeks to harden, then, using a paintwork renovator or a very fine cutting paste, blend the edges of the paint into the existing paintwork. Finally, apply wax polish.

ee 5

ee

ee ee

ee

ae

ee

ee

Bumpers — removal and refitting

eee 1 To remove the front or rear bumpers is simply unbolting them from the body and wing panels. 2

Before

removing

the

front

6.4 Radiator grille clip and socket

bumper,

disconnect

indicator lamp leads at their wiring connectors. 3 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

a matter the

of

direction

———_—_— eee 7

Bonnet — removal

and refitting

a a 1 Open the bonnet and underside (photo).

mark

a the position

of the hinges on

its

2 With the help of an assistant, support the bonnet on the shoulders and unscrew the hinge bolts. 3 Lift the bonnet from the car and stand it where it will not be damaged. 4 Refit by reversing the removal operations locating the hinges in their original positions. Do not tighten the bolts fully until the bonnet

Chapter

12

Bodywork

a has been closed and its alignment within the wing channels checked. 5 The bonnet should close smoothly with moderate pressure. If necessary, adjust the position of the lock by releasing its bolts after

first having removed

the grille as described in Section 6 (photo).

and fittings

201

3

Raise the front end, support securely and remove

4

Remove

the roadwheel.

the plastic shield from under the wing, also the washer

fluid reservoir. 5 Remove the headlamp and front parking lamp as described in Chapter 10. 6 Unscrew and remove the wing fixing bolts from the upper edge of the engine compartment. 7 Open the front door and remove the wing fixing bolts from the body A pillar (photo). 8 Remove the bumper to wing bolts including the one within the headlamp housing. 9 Remove the wing. The seams and flange joints will probably require cutting with a sharp knife to release the sealing mastic. 10 Clean away all old sealing compound, apply rustproof paint if necessary to any corroded areas and then apply a new thick bead of

mastic to 11 Offer 12 Refit 13 Apply 14 15

the wing mating flanges of the body. the wing into position and screw in the bolts. the headlamp and parking lamp. underseal to the undersurface of the wing.

Refit the plastic shield and washer fluid reservoir. Fit the roadwheel.

16

Re-finish the wing to match the colour of the bodywork.

17

Check

the headlamp

beam

alignment

on completion.

7.1 Bonnet hinge

9.7 Wing bolt at body pillar

10

Door trim panel — removal

and refitting

1

Prise out the small blanking plates from under the door armrests,

7.5 Bonnet lock

8

Bonnet

extract the screws now exposed and lift off the top section of the armrest (photos). 2 Extract the fixing clip from the window regulator handle. To do this, either insert a piece of wire which has a hook at its end behind the handle and pull out the clip or use a piece of rag to work the clip

lock and release

1 This is of remote, cable-operated type. 2 The release lever is located at the bottom of the facia lower panel. 3 The cable can be detached from the lock lever once the radiator grille has been removed. The release lever is held by two screws. 4 When reconnecting the cable to the lock, allow a very slight amount of free movement in the cable.

upwards as shown in Fig. 12.1. 3. Remove the control knob from the exterior rear view mirror, then the three cover plate screws. Remove the cover plate and mirror (refer to Section 28). 4 Extract the single screw and remove the escutcheon plate from the lock remote control handle (photo). 5 Using a screwdriver, prise out the weatherstrip from the inner side

of the door glass (photo).

EEE ——————————————— EEE ee 9

Front wing — removal

and refitting

E EE E I E a 1 The front wings are bolted into position in the economical repair. 2 Open the bonnet.

interest

of

6

Using the fingers, pull the door trim panel from the door. Use a

sharp jerking action to release the clips from the holes in the door. Peel off the waterproof sheet (photos). 7 The refitting operations are reversals of those described for removal, but note the fitting of the window regulator handle described in Section 11, paragraph 16.

Chapter 12

202

10.1B Removing

Bodywork

armrest screw

10.5 Removing door glass weatherstrip

10.4 Door lock remote control handle escutcheon plate screw

10.6B Trim panel upper edge clip

y Fig. 12.1 Method of removing window regulator handle clip

10.6A Door trim panel clip

10.6C Removing door waterproof sheet

11

Ex.

(Sec 10)

and fittings

Front door — dismantling and reassembly

1 Open the door and remove the trim panel as described in the preceding Section. 2 Unscrew the two bolts and detach the door loek remote control handle (photo). 3 If the glass is to be removed, unbolt and remove the glass rear lower frame. 4 Unscrew the two bolts from the glass bottom channel. 5 Withdraw the glass from the door by pulling it upwards. 6 Unbolt the window regulator and equaliser and withdraw them through the aperture in the door (photo). 7 Pull the glass channel from the front lower frame, extract the two screws from under the weatherstrip, the two lower fixing screws tana withdraw the lower frame.

203

:

ony

Rear View Mirror

Door Glass

Outside Handle (Door

Lock Knob

Channel

Door Belt Moulding

lad

Inside Handle

Door Hinge

Door Check Regulator

fag)

Remote

Handle

Control

Escutcheon

Front Frame

Armrest

Waterproof

Sheet Door Trim Panel

Regulator Handle

Fig. 12.2 Front door components (Sec 11)

11.2 Removing door lock remote control

handle

Fig. 12.3 Removing front door glass

(Sec 11)

11.6 Window equaliser bolt

Chapter

204

12

Bodywork

and fittings

Se

11.10 Door lock fixing screws

11.8 Door lock cylinder retaining clip

11.16A Window regulator handle retaining clip

8 The lock cylinder can be removed after pulling out its retaining clip which is accessible from inside the door cavity (photo). 9 The exterior handle is retained by two bolts again reached from inside the door cavity (photo). 10 The door lock is retained by three screws on the edge of the door. Once the lock has been released and pushed upwards, the lock plunger can be unscrewed from its link rod (photo). 11 If a new door glass is being fitted, the bottom channel must be fitted to the glass in accordance with the diagram Fig. 12.6. 12 Wet the rubber channel with soapy water and tap it onto the glass using a wooden mallet. 13 Reassembly is a reversal of dismantling, but observe the following points. 14 Apply grease to the lock, regulator and equaliser assemblies. 15 With the glass raised to within an inch or two of the fully closed

Fig. 12.4 Front door front frame screws (Sec 11)

11.16B

Fitting window regulator handle

position, adjust and tighten the equaliser arm to give equal gaps A and

BuFign

W257):

16 Locate the retaining clip in the window regulator handle and fit the handle to the regulator shaft so that with the window fully closed the handle is positioned as shown in Fig. 12.8. The regulator handle is fitted to its shaft simply by banging it with the hand. The clip being already in position will engage in the shaft groove to lock the handle to the shaft (photos).

12

Rear door — dismantling and reassembly

1 The operations are very similar to those described in the preceding Section but observe the following differences. 2 To remove the dividing bar and fixed quarter light, extract the

Fig. 12.5 Unscrewing door lock plunger (Sec 11)

205

Front @

97 mm

(3.82 in.)

Fig. 12.6 Front door glass channel

positioning diagram (Sec 11)

Fig. 12.7 Door glass gap alignment

Fig. 12.8 Door window regulator

(Sec 11)

handle position with glass fully up (Sec 11)

Division Bar

Door Glass—

Quarter Glass

Weatherstrip

Outside Handle

Door Lock Knob

Door Lock

aie

@n>

Inside Handle

Regulator

Door Check

Inside Handle Bezel

Belt Moulding

Waterproof

Sheet

© (3) Po~ Fig. 12.9 Rear door components (Sec 12)

% ressiaos Handle

This sequence of photographs deals with the repair of the dent and paintwork damage shown in this photo. The procedure will be similar for the repair of a hole. It should be noted that the procedures given here are simplified — more explicit instructions will be found in the text

In the case of a dent the first job — after removing surrounding trim —is to hammer out the dent where access is possible. This

Now all paint must be removed from the damaged area, by rubbing with coarse abrasive paper. Alternatively, a wire brush or abrasive pad can be used in a power drill. Where the repair area meets good paintwork, the edge of the paintwork should be ‘feathered’, using a finer grade of abrasive paper

In the case of a hole caused by rusting, all damaged sheet-metal should be cut away before proceeding to this stage. Here, the damaged area is being treated with rust remover and inhibitor before being filled

Mix the body filler according to its manufacturer's instructions. In the case of corrosion damage, it will be necessary to block off

.. applying the filler. Filler should be applied with a flexible applicator, as shown, for best results; the wooden spatula being used for confined areas. Apply thin layers of filler at 20-minute intervals, until the surface of the filler is slightly proud of the surrounding bodywork

any large holes before filling — this can be done with aluminium

or plastic mesh, or aluminium tape. Make sure the area is absolutely clean before ...

will minimise filling. Here, the large dent having been hammered out, the damaged area is being made slightly concave

=

Initial shaping can be done with a Surform plane or Dreadnought file. Then, using progressively finer grades of wetand-dry paper, wrapped around a sanding block, and copious amounts of clean water, rub down the filler until really smooth

and flat. Again, feather the edges of adjoining paintwork

ant

4

i

The whole repair area can now be sprayed or brush-painted with primer. If spraying, ensure adjoining areas are protected from over-spray. Note that at least one inch of the surrounding sound paintwork should be coated with primer. Primer has a ‘thick’ consistency, so will find small imperfections

—

|

Any remaining imperfections can now be filled by carefully applied knifing stopper paste

When the stopper has hardened, rub down the repair area again before applying the final coat of primer. Before rubbing down this last coat of primer, ensure the repair area is blemish-free — use more stopper if necessary. To ensure that the surface of the primer is really smooth use some finishing compound

The top coat can now be applied. When working out of doors, pick a dry, warm and wind-free day. Ensure surrounding areas are protected from over-spray. Agitate the aerosol thoroughly, then spray the centre of the repair area, working outwards with a circular motion. Apply the paint as several thin coats .

After a period of about two weeks, which the paint needs to harden fully, the surface of the repaired area can be ‘cut’ with a mild cutting compound prior to wax polishing. When carrying out bodywork repairs, remember that the quality of the finished job is proportional to the time and effort expended

Again, using plenty of water, rub down the primer with a fine grade wet-and-dry paper (400 grade is probably best) until it is

really smooth and well blended into the surrounding paintwork.

Chapter

208

12

Bodywork

and fittings

single screw from under the weatherstrip and the two lower bolts. Pull out the bar followed by the glass with its weatherstrip. If a new main glass is being fitted, tap the bottom channel onto 3. the glass using a wooden or plastic-faced hammer having wetted the rubber channel with soapy water. Position the channel as shown in FignalZals:

a ee a eee 13 Door — removal and refitting SS ee 1. Open the door fully and support on blocks or jacks padded with rag to prevent damage to the paint. 2 Have an assistant support the door then unbolt the hinges and remove the check from the door. Lift the door from the car (photos). ere?”

Fig. 12.10 Rear door divider bar top screw (Sec 12)

Fig. 12.11 Rear door divider bar being removed (Sec 12) 13.2A Door lower hinge

Fig. 12.12 Removing rear door quarter light (Sec 12)

13.2B Door upper hinge

12 mm ;

3 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but the door may require adjustment. If it does, follow this procedure. 4 To move the door forwards or rearwards loosen the hinge bolts on the body pillar side. On front doors, a special cranked spanner will be

(0.47 in.) : i

Fig. 12.13 Rear door glass channel positioning diagram (Sec 12)

required to reach the bolts. 5 To move the door up or down, or to bring

door or wings, release the hinge bolts on ale

it flush

wi

ciaeiee ee

Chapter 12

Bodywork

and fittings

209

Fig. 12.14 Loosening front door hinge bolts on body pillar (Sec 13)

Wee

13.6 Door lock striker

6 Finally, release the lock striker screws and move ensure smooth positive closure of the door (photo).

Fig. 12.15 Loosening rear door hinge bolts on body pillar (Sec 13)

(

the striker to

14

Luggage boot lid — removal, refitting and adjustment

1

Open

the

lid fully and

mark

the position

of the hinges

on

its

underside (photo). 2 Disconnect the wiring from the rear number plate lamps. 3 With the help of an assistant, unscrew the hinge bolts from the lid and lift it from the car. 4 Refit by reversing the removal operations. Adjust if necessary before fully tightening the hinge bolts. 5 Adjust the lock and striker to give smooth positive closure of the

lid (photos).

4

e

6 Should it be necessary to remove the counterbalance torsion bar, open the lid and have an assistant support it. 7 Make up a long rod suitably cranked at its end so that the torsion bar can be levered from its anchor slots. Release the tool slowly, remove it and the torsion bar.

Fig. 12.16 Front door hinge bolts (door side) (Sec 13)

Fig. 12.17 Rear door hinge bolts (door side) (Sec 13)

14.1 Boot hinge

Chapter

210

12

Bodywork

and fittings

Fig. 12.18 Disconnecting tailgate strut (Sec 15)

Oncars with automatic transmission, extract the small screw from 2 the upper end of the speed selector lever and take off the knob. Extract the screws from each side of the front end of the centre 3 console (photos). Slide the seat fully forward and remove the screws from the sides 4 of the rear section. 5 Lift away the console sections in an upward direction. 6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

14.5A Boot lock

|

14.5B Boot lock striker and lamp switch 16.1 Removing gearchange lever knob 15 Tailgate — removal,

refitting and adjustment

1 Open the tailgate fully and disconnect the electrical leads from the glass heater element and the wiper motor. 2 Disconnect the hose from the washer jet. 3 With an assistant taking the weight of the tailgate, disconnect the gas-filled struts from the tailgate. Do this by unscrewing the hexagon on the ball stud. On no account attempt to prise the socket from the ball stud. 4 Mark the position of the hinges on the tailgate, unscrew the nuts and lift the tailgate from the car. - 5 Refitting is a reversal of removal. If adjustment is required, release the nuts for rearward or forward movement or alter the number of washers or shims under the hinges to bring the tailgate flush with the body panels. 6 Adjust the position of lock and striker to ensure smooth, positive closure of the tailgate. —_-e.err

16

ss

eee

nn

Centre console — removal and refitting

—_e_eee—— ee sO ee eee

1

On

cars

with

manual

transmission

gearchange lever knob (photo).

unscrew

and

remove

the

17

Facia panel — removal

and refitting

1 Refer to Chapter 10 and remove the instrument panel. 2 Refer to Chapter 11 and remove the steering wheel. 3 Remove the spéaker grille panels (photo). 4 Extract the two screws and allow the bonnet release handle to drop down. 5 Remove the facia under-cover panel and the facia lower panel

(photo). 6 Extract the fixing screw and remove the heater duct (photo). 7 Remove the speakers and brackets. 8 Remove the glove compartment door by taking out the hinge screws (photo). 9 Refer to Chapter 10 and remove the centre cluster escutcheon and radio. Remove the cluster housing (photo). 10 Remove the ashtray and its metal safety cover. Note the fibre optic in the cover used to illuminate the ashtray (photos). 11 Extract the four screws and detach the heater control panel from

the facia (photo). 12 Lever out the demister vents from both ends of the facia panel (photo).

16.3A Centre console fixing screw

17.6 Heater duct

17.8 Glove compartment door

17.10A Ashtray metal cover screws

17.10B Ashtray cover fibre optic

17.12 Removing facia panel demister ducts

17.13A Facia fixing screw at bracket

4 {RVENT S81. Hinest @ ee

17.11

Heater control panel screws

5,

Chapter

é

Pe ye

12

Aine

17.13B

Bodywork

and fittings

ah

Facia fixing screw within air grille

outlet

aperture

,

17.15A Facia air ducts

13 Extract the screws and bolts which hold the facia panel in position, including those within the end air grille apertures (photos). 14 Pull the facia towards you off its locating spigots and brackets. Remove the end cap (photo). 15 The demister ducts now exposed may be unbolted and removed if

required (photos). 16 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

18

Front seat — :emoval and refitting

17.15B

19

Facia demister duct

Rear seat — removal and refitting

1 Raise the: two clips at the bottorn edge at the front of the seat cushion (photo). 2 Lift out the cushion. 3 The seat back is split on Saloon models, but both these and the Liftback rear seat are pivoted at the base. Unbolt the pivot brackets to remove the seat backs. 4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

1 Push the seat fully forward, prise off the plastic covers then unbolt and slide the side rail out towards the rear of the car (photo). 2 Move the seat as necessary to unbolt the seat from the floor.

20

3 Withdraw the seat, but if the seat is fitted with cushion or back heaters, unplug the leads first. 4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

1 One of two types of headrest may be fitted, vertically adjustable or vertically and horizontally adjustable. 2 Both types are controlled by a lock button.

Headrests

Chapter

12

Bodywork

and fittings

213

UNLOCK

Fig. 12.19 Seat back lock button (Sec 19)

[ UNLOCK |

19.1 Rear seat cushion clip

21

Fig. 12.21

Headrests (vertically and horizontally adjustable type) (Sec 20)

Seat belts

1 Inertia reel type seat belts are fitted to both front and rear seats (photos). 2 Keep the belts clean by wiping them over with a damp cloth and detergent only.

21.1A Front seat belt reel

3 Regularly check the belts for fraying and renew if necessary. 4 -Never alter the belt anchorage points and if the belts are disconnected, make sure that the original fitted sequence of washers, spacers and belt end fitting is maintained when the belt is reconnected to its anchor point.

21.1B Seat belt upper anchor bolt

21.1C Rear seat belt anchorage

214 Chapter 12 Bodywork a

and fittings

eT

1 Depending upon the vehicle model and operating territory the following remote, cable-operated controls may be fitted.

2 Prise the trim in an upward direction. A tool may be made up to engage in the lower edge of the trim to facilitate its removal. 3. Fit the trim by engaging its upper edge first and striking it with the hand. 4 Fit the screw at its lower end.

Luggage

Door belt moulding

22

2 3

Remote

control

boot

The operating lever is located by the driver's seat. If the key is turned in the boot lid lock in an anti-clockwise

direction when

closed, the remote

control is rendered

inoperative.

Tailgate 4 A release lever is located by the driver's seat. It operates in a similar way to that described for the luggage boot, but does not have the built-in cancelling facility.

Fuel filler cap flap 5

The release lever is located next to the boot or tailgate opening

lever. 6 Once the flap is released, the fuel filler cap must still be unlocked with a key before a pump attendant can fill the tank.

5 Remove the door trim panel and unscrew the window regulator equaliser bolts so that the door glass can be lowered as far as possible. 6 Prise out the clips and remove the moulding. 7 When refitting, locate the clips into the door edge first and then tap the moulding into the clips using the hand.

Quarter window moulding (Liftback) 8 9 10

11 Remove the rear panel trim cover. 12 Remove the quarter trim panel. 13 Remove the quarter escutcheon panel by prising it off its retaining clips. 14 Unscrew the four nuts and take off the window moulding.

15 23

Trim and mouldings

Remove the rear seat cushion (Section 19). Remove the seat back. Remove the rear cover side brackets and suspension strut covers.

Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Quarter vent louvre (Saloon)

Gutter trim 1 Open the front door and remove the small screw from the end of the trim.

16 17 18 19

Remove Prise out Unscrew Refitting

Gutter

Front Door

Belt Moulding

the rear seat. the clips and remove the finisher panel. the two nuts, prise off the louvre from its three clips. is a reversal of removal.

Trim

Rear Door Belt Moulding

Fig. 12.22 Exterior trim (Sec 23)

NS Fig. 12.23 Removing gutter trim

screw (Sec 23)

Fig. 12.24 Prising off gutter trim (Sec 23)

Fig. 12.25 Removing door belt moulding (Sec 23)

215

Fig. 12.26 Fitting door belt moulding (Sec 23)

Fig. 12.28 Rear panel trim cover (Liftback) (Sec 23)

Fig. 12.27 Rear cover side brackets (Liftback) (Sec 23)

Fig. 12.29 Quarter trim panel (Liftback) (Sec 23)

eS) —

Fig. 12.30 Quarter escutcheon panel (Liftback) (Sec 23)

Fig. 12.31

Unscrewing quarter window moulding nuts (Liftback)

(Sec 23)

Chapter

216

Quarter

Vent

12

Bodywork

and fittings

Louvre

Inner

Finisher

Panel

Fig. 12.32 Quarter vent louvre (Saloon) (Sec 23)

Fig. 12.34 Removing louvre nuts (Sec 23) Fig. 12.33 Removing louvre finisher panel (Sec 23)

Windscreen

moulding

20 This will normally only be removed if the windscreen is to be renewed. 21 Remove the wiper arms and blades. 22 Remove the side mouldings, corner covers, and upper and lower mouldings in that order. 23 Two types of clips are used. To release the side moulding clips, bend the shaft of a small screwdriver at 90° and insert it between the glass and moulding. 24 Release the clips by inserting a blade with turned-over edge on the body side of the moulding. 25 Slide the moulding out without bending it. 26 When refitting the moulding, snap it onto the clips by striking it with the hand.

Fig. 12.35 Prising louvre from clips (Sec 23)

Chapter 12

Bodywork

and fittings

217

a oe General description

4

Cylinder head covers —-removal and installation Timing belt and pulleys — removal and installation Camshafts — removal and installation Intake manifold — removal and installation Toyota Variable Induction System (T-VIS) — check (4A-GE engine) Exhaust manifold — removal and installation Cylinder head — removal, overhaul and installation Engine — removal and installation (4A-GE engine)

Fuel and emissions control systems ................... EFI system — general description EFI system — general diagnosis Fuel pressure relief procedure Fuel pressure — check Fuel tank — removal and installation Fuel pump and fuel gauge sending unit — removal and installation Cold start injector — check and replacement Pressure regulator — removal and installation Fuel injector — testing, removal and installation Air flow meter — testing, removal and installation Throttle body — testing, removal and installation Throttle position sensor — check, replacement and adjustment Auxiliary air valve — check, removal and installation EFl main relay — testing and replacement Circuit opening relay — testing and replacement Solenoid resistor and injector relay — testing and replacement Start injector time switch — testing and replacement

1.

5

— testing

and replacement Idle-up system — testing and replacement Emissions control systems (4A-GE engine) information and precautions

—

general

Electronic control system (4A-GE engine) — general information and precautions Self diagnosis system (4A-GE engine) — general information and code output Oxygen sensor (4A-GE engine) — removal and installation Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) hose (4A-GE engine) — check and replacement Fuel Evaporative Emission Control (EVAP) system (4A-GE engine) Dashpot system (4A-GE engine) Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system (4A-GE engine) Emissions control systems (4A-F engine) — general information Evaporative Emissions Control system (4A-F engine)

Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system (4A-F engine) Spark Control System — check (4A-F engine) Ignition’ SyStemnt ¥ sete oh rae ee ce ee General information Precautions Ignition system — check Igniter — check and replacement Ignition coil — testing and replacement Distributor (4A-GE engine) — testing, removal and installation Ignition timing — check and adjustment Engine main relay — check and replacement

6

Driveshafts, hubs, wheels and tires

7

Driveshafts

—

removal

Braking system: ..e cca General information

...................

and installation

s

ee

Gere

fe

ethan Seemann

ai

8

Introduction

This Supplement contains specifications and service procedure changes that apply exclusively to Toyota Corolla front-wheel drive models manufactured from 1985 through 1988. Also included is information related to previous models that was not available at the time

of original publication of this manual. Where no differences (or very minor differences) exist between 1984 models and later models, no information is given; the original material

included in Chapters 1 through 12, pertaining to 1984 models, should be used. Before beginning a service or repair procedure, check this Supplement for new specifications and procedure changes. Note the supplementary information and be sure to include it while following the original procedure in Chapters 1 through 12.

Chapter 13 Supplement: Revisions and information on 1985 and later models 222 eee ES 2

Specifications

ON

——eeeeeeeSeSeSeSesSsSsSsSse

of this manual. Note: The following specifications are revisions of or supplementary to those listed at the beginning of each Chapter specifications apply unless alternative figures are included here.

Engine designation eo

AW AG

AkAOS EAR Sens hcDea

ac RCN

CUE 8S. 0 CEPR ROND wc choi

MERE

oho Grant cece nats MCR PAW NAGY 3 cl iis Aen eG. ORG PaO tte CRORE Led cp cfuo) 0 cr en ele et aM Tne dc ee eee WINES OS ge

Routine

Dual overhead cam, four valves per cylinder, EFI Dual overhead cam, four valves per cylinder, carburetor equipped

maintenance

Spark plug type LWNA SATA (elo ae dee

AW

two valves per cylinder, carburetor equipped

cam,

Single overhead

CE Ciielinn

Soenh< fllure Ce Idle speed 4A-C engine

o oped (ll)

eeOME OIeeD fhtaoeg lorc.d meuepeneA ect cetac au oo SAO es ao Oh

oo conto

Modi

egner spaces

ons

om ot a pa cw karen

Ow

«

1985 Manual! transaxle Rat ects

mB is. F cnahak Gnckels © Meum chee AutomaticstranSaxlete, wwscci da) saci uctaatne cus sul ees 1986 and 1987 (automatic transaxle)............... 4A-F engine ManualsthansSaxl@ ese. ..0t con leeiaim Grd fo. sarthe vas cenia ies AutomaticuransSaxles sce ete secs sees aoe otounpest eens talons, oles 4A-GEX(ERNengines(all)ier ais caer orci coe eee nenene at ate Valve clearance (cold) (4A-F and 4A-GE engines)

Intakes hs. Exhaust: See eens

peewee eee te CRP Petes 20s screws

oD Re «5 See

eT alaee eee lee epee

Torque specifications Ruel tfiltershittimngSaneser: SparkeplugSie-apere

. = ss cer meee ts «172 caine was

ee ct eteuae odaeons oe Yeadon

ND Q16R-U11 NGK BCPR5EY11 ND PQ16R NGK BCPR5EP1 1 1.1 mm (0.043 in)

650 rpm 800 rpm 750 rpm 650 rpm 750 rpm 800 rpm

0.15 to 0.25 mm 0.20 to 0.30 mm

(0.006 to 0.012 in) (0.008 to 0.012 in)

Nm

Ft-lbs

29 18

DD, ike

4A-C engine Pistons and rings Piston=to-cylinder clearance (i986) Ring-to-groove clearance (1986)

ai

«oe

ets ed yee

ees

HO PEI\Geren reise sakeee: fuse cease ncotmeiee oar Cte e ee arco, Piston ring end gap (1987) HL OMNI)GMa RE ctAPN ee ec es acd cha ok

0.09 to 0.11

mm

(0.0035

to 0.0043

in)

0.04 to 0.08 mm

(0.0016 to 0.0031

in)

0.25 to 0.35 mm

(0.0098 to 0.0138 in)

Crankshaft Main bearing oil clearance 1986 Sinko t=]a0 iene 6:cro. fcr los pul lieeeeong 6 Bi osate cu Caoame ©

Tae ce eR oo craton abscto Eo. s iaBie cre eee 1987 Stamdardi-2 2 2.7. gee eRe ene ke eae holerste: Engh Meee mene cococ MEM te ee oho ues SAR Endiiplav( 19 8'7)):. . 1c. 5 caer ase eei et Berne trevea gas:

0.012

to 0.039

0.10 mm

mm

(0.0005

to 0.0015 in)

(0.00339 in)

0.015 to 0.033 mm (0.0006 to 0.0013 in) 0.10 mm (0.0039 in) 0.020 to 0.022 mm (0.0008 to 0.0087 in)

Camshaft (1986) Cam lobe height (intake and exhaust) Standard weeks oc.2 fee eee ene heeta LEI t cessed Gite neiedno sas Re eae Re EC Rumout limits.

2.0.2 5. 3+ Seen ene

ae enna

ene ctrae er a eck Ono cae 0 isn aN

eee

Torque specifications

39.49 to 39.99 mm (1.5508 to 1.5547 in) 39.14 mm (1.5409 in) 0.06 mm

(0.0024 in)

Nm

Ft-lbs

39 49

29 36

Connecting rod nuts

NOS amen ar aca SRY ae Stee Ma e ters oe o-sat aciuines ee Coe reNs WRITS orca cathodes eicaee Oe OCR eta Da Dont Se oe een enn as

4A-GE engine General Bore Anes troy Oil pressure

soreteg a eet pretties syacorns maniac

carter

aed syle

A tGeespeGdis ake. cred ncHeldu: ahulons ae Gare editors: Gl ie AteS OOO DMip tote iets tock Se eee do eet MOA GEDEIENC OTISC EON nie.th 615.0 visa wee RAR Giron oe ee

The otiginal

81.0 x 77.0 mm

(3.19 x 3.03 in)

More than 29 kPa (4.3 psi) 245 to 490 kPa (36 to 71 psi) 4 mm at 2 kg (0.16 in at 4.4 Ib)

Chapter 13 Supplement: Revisions and information on 1985 and later models eee Cylinder head SWS WESC TMs cn onan oondo onan sooo a ene one Manifold surface warpage limit Intake (air EM controlOUV valve) side aed EINE) SIOG ue ee . Glen 34clohe EXhaUStesid eta. Manne Valve seat

me

reny

ers

AO

AAD

Wey

REtaCinGganglame seme-p. whch ancereele whaler manera ks Pte ws Conta ChinGkang|Ouwrtnnt hei as ee eee ea ar lel he Contacting NVC oeeeanch Srna cache at ie eee cree oh ae Valve guide bushing InsicerdiaMetetnes Outside diameter

et .ec.eeearet tice

ac nee

ae

SHETACLENGO| A cnn eR Ae Ehea oe oat tena ee ae OversizestyperO:O50s.>, cote eee eee Valve overall length Standard 2 es olcial hte S eo Roh eats 8caeons intl mae [SU DRELSESIN a hkAng i

on Cech A Hee oann ee oo Tees OPE

Limit [hitter eGaeraetet ee ah eee

ne ra

nee

NieIVeEracerang|Cmim-etmsh

webtna terncrnae Shy Reei ec

oreo ahs Marcos ain core ep) MM Sate Openh RCP ES S92 grey vey

2

METRE at che ceca Mae a a8 atau) Goat Sena STUER Valve spring atta se Ae Gare tod teres Beare s Bac pa eRark. tM EEC CMen OTM

LASEaNE GRMEItween saefenseo Gals tale x voto ene 8Svata otrraba es Installecatoad musa weeunncly. ete aeons oases CUE Mls an apnmmaNn cae OUtCME SCION

INAIC cats aru

Sip aewie

Piva, dees

30°, 45° and 60° 45° 1.0 to 1.4 mm (0.039 to 0.055 in) 6.01

to 6.03 mm

(0.2366

11.033 to 11.044 mm 11.083 to 11.094 mm

mm

in)

(0.4344 to 0.4348 (0.4363 to 0.4368

in) in)

in)

(3.921

99.6 mm

to 0.2374

in)

(3.9272

(3.902 in)

mm mm

in)

(3.9075

44.5°

ee

ce

Standard eer te EVES ch A Bee Atct engi i erence teen See Soph Fans ©meh uP ici. sears), ater at NS 1B EXC STE Limit Pe ott cee IS VW RAK OM sift. rors eked ae io Se I at Bee oe EXMAUSt wet oraretna ome ok ice nesta homer ee osta or Bai Margin width MSM

(0.0020 in) (0.0039 in)

99.25

Stem diameter ee Cr re ee RIGGS 60", GS. osHack Oe ORD oe OE Natop. \cecd.d ee er ceinrs olcertat tees Coeur EX AUSL ee Rene Bee Stem oil clearance

CONC

0.05 mm 0.10 mm

99.1

oe

ee ee, oege

ee eee

(0.0020 in)

99.75

Retin, ea

Pet Ns one

RA hy Bae GOR A ene

ep ARETUESTA Sa Jo cate RUE

0.05 mm

CAD asta nee

5.970 to 5.985 5.965 to 5.980

(0.2350 to 0.2356 (0.2348 to 0.2354

mm mm

(0.0010 to 0.0024 in) (0.0012 to 0.0026 in)

0.025 to 0.060 mm 0.030 to 0.065 mm (0.0031 (0.0039

0.08 mm 0.10 mm 0.5 mm

(0.020 in)

0.5 mm

(0.020 in)

41.09 mm

in) in)

in) in)

(1.6177

in)

34.7 mm (1.366 in) 16.3 kg (35.9 Ib) 1.8 mm

(0.071

in)

Camshaft End play arora ce tae FelE's[e-e-Seenc cen hecites ee eh Mieete adit ctr SSUPSTINYG ee es ee ee ah Oe ee erica Ae Be tea pers RUAN tM Lobe height 1987 crt coche chen hacsia, aoe, teense asec nraea ee eae tenoas StamGandeer tetera ten ct een te Linnitalininimuim) nce. eae 1988 TG en atte een ac ce ee ee ee oe Stamcancimecrdes Rial Pome ceo moAtemcrcn onGael ncaraamcne GeceomciD =n, cutee. is EC ani nnItANin@le ees eee Genter journalistandard diameter sige a... -- «+ Journal oil clearance ee tr ee rane, econ ono cae Pen 00. Seen le eS on Ske ch Syeslayekelitals. ene rT etree te pia ae eta hee nO ie ETGTRTE aeeae A,Proe RA cee snseaac edisoe Valv eulitter outemdiameteta(Standalcd)s Lifter-to-cylinder head oil clearance Rocka meaty atu eke o wage Reet ee he A IC eee STATIC nn crc e ae sais. ghee dame tency Oe ee [ain CREME et Nee Me

0.08 to 0.19 mm (0.0031 0.30 mm (0.0118 in)

35.555 35.155

to 0.0075

in)

to 35.565 mm (1.3998 to 1.4002 mm (1.3841 in)

35.410 to 35.510 mm (1.3823 to 1.3980 in) 35.21 mm (1.3862 in) 34.97 to 35.03 mm (1.3768 to 1.3791 in) 0.035 to 0.072 mm (0.0014 to 0.0028 in) 0.1 mm (0.004 in) 27.975 to 27.985 mm (1.1014 to 1.1018 in) 0.015 to 0.046 mm (0.0006 to 0.0018 0.10 mm (0.0039 in)

in)

Intake, exhaust manifold and air control valve Warpage LEAK STIR

va.cuch etm here cotinioe spt apy Chcradraulvvo Melee Ne nyearerban [STAUe nal eter: & Mee Ban eid chbid CG on aero one Ona AaAnDIRCeT atch cacy aCe OmcmE ono renecgioio Dead Nip Cinta WelNdee Haile 6 oo ac ow olblo om A ep

Engine block Wereeellinllias

éhuct

homed ouu ot oocotougacnannew dam

: 0.05 mm (0.0020 in) 0.3 mm (0.012 in) 0.05 mm (0.0020 in)

0.05 mm

(0.0020 in)

r Seta lhe, Leech Seg atta Ey homes ARO Wyo arial tl tetas (cote vemess no eitinee cer ARR.

Mae

nalitmniteens eWteiee wueio tacttedetetean eee)

OTK

Eee

Om merc ©. Ste Puede

cake” Penden

oc

lomdan omc ieciGrortnc alotiicounec! inli® © oo a alot poe plobeuoeS

in)

81.00 to 81.03 mm 0.2 mm (0.008 in)

(3.1890 to 3.1902

0.02 mm

(0.0008 in)

0.02 mm

(0.0008 in)

in)

223

Chapter 13 Supplement: Revisions and information on 1985 and later models 224 EEE nnn nn 4A-GE

engine (continued)

Pistons and rings eee cit tase ore ehbree cine on rence Piston Gilaneten emis ci Piston-to-cylinder bore clearance.........-.----++s+se05 Piston ring end gap No. 1 Standard er Pr recy Ste Sc .8fo ac 0 OMe Oe ee SRCISH (>ae, ee ea PO ie cota ntanw Mo sco ab ee a RERSTES oe RIOR CRS Pucehaninuomonosors cexracd 0 S10 oc eR ECO GA (eirinthtee: No. 2 Standard Mee hoe et arenas fo Eno cme AeToe: Seducan Lh ee Ae cairn sarees nt tee Aue GRae ARR Rm vt he OS Be

Lita Clg

ties cues ace ate Gods aaa hepraec Meee

ikeremiei

neuer

Oil ring Standard (RSLSWeee oeMr eee rics pcan eeAke noth On ee enone MO CB ek 2 atari w ditact teck reeset Gieielsic) Srakenclo ie.chaeal ORmearC ae

80.89 to 80.92 mm (3.1846 to 3.1858 in) 0.10 to 0.12 mm (0.0039 to 0.0047 in)

0.25 to 0.35 mm (0.0098 to 0.0138 0.25 to 0.47 mm (0.0098 to 0.0047 1.07 mm (0.0421 in)

in) in)

0.20 to 0.30 mm (0.0078 to 0.0118 0.20 to 0.42 mm (0.0079 to 0.0165 1.02 mm (0.0402 in)

in) in)

0.20 to 0.70 mm 0.15 to 0.52 mm

in) in)

(0.0078 to 0.0276 (0.0059 to 0.0205

Limit

1:9 O:7 ear evaae ae may het nse tc ce Salut) as) cot ems Con eke cree ree eee eres can MSHEKSY Semcoel eso Ss Lo dy eneree ec

1.62 mm 1.12 mm

(0.0638 in) (0.0441 in)

Ring-to-groove clearance limit

hy ce opRR NG Sie ieee seas, rachcateus coe Aten gi EE cg meapm are NOME 2 Mere eee ches Gor sone Gener pees, ne oh

0.04 to 0.08 mm 0.03 to 0.07 mm

(0.0016 to 0.0031 (0.0012 to 0.0028

in) in)

0.15 to 0.25 mm (0.0059 to 0.0098 0.30 mm (0.118 in)

in)

Connecting rods and bearings End play

StanGardertneretas mieten bon atonal tate cp ioe ee BT italtere ee ee en tae secret ethics sy c cnewt eta entuaes, nates a eee Bearing oil clearance

StanGan em Lirias

eee Sees

ea tare anaeel aatee twas kta ee tee, Sl ee eee eam, Chace See My et ee Se 6 eae

0.020 to 0.051 mm (0.0008 to 0.0020 in) 0.080 mm (0:0031 in)

Crankshaft End play Stanmore ae. seemeeiin: cnt tens Gutecericiem ere oxy coe Autor

ASiyal Ce

me

ee

Me

ik

fac As, code

Wepreoat

Awe bn BC Pe

0.02 to 0.22 mm

0.30 mm

(0.0008 to 0.0087

in)

(0.0118 in)

Main journal oil clearance

1987 Standard LASSC, See

tacos feces « opty ae Sk Cent a heh ne ee ae Ce ee eer

Os cytes te ac ere

0.012 to 0.039 mm (0.0005 to 0.0015 0.10 mm (0.0039 in)

in)

0.015 to 0.033

in)

1988 StaniCanclamanad@

WinGite

art mucear estou

keto. sce) cuscs, Geeta

ne op ec cue

Oe

oc etcaden & eaqnepeeee

oieh PND,

Maingrounmalacdiameter ns anne. ues Connecting rod journal diameter

Ph cae

aan au dete

Hee ee

MO Sis yee seks lace cre tee SR a LOE ES oe eri WOGHEE 35°55) See eee ee Seetene Leeee eeen eeeee tl rsa Main journal taper/out-of-round

a

0.10 mm ots

SOT eee

limit ...............5-0-

Connecting rod journal taper/out-of-round limit

...........

mm

(0.0006 to 0.0013

(0.0039 in)

47.982 to 48.000 mm

(1.8891

39.985 to 40.000 mm 41.985 to 42.000 mm

(1.5742 to 1.5748 in) (1.6529 to 1.6535 in)

0.02 mm

(0.0008

0.02 mm

(0.0008 in)

to 1.8898

in)

in)

Torque specifications

Nm

Ft-lbs (un/ess otherwise noted)

Cvlindermhead#boltsy.

ja} o>

xrO

o

Om

oo

©

z

(1C-L RHD)

[og

> z es z> Wa

SS ac we

Se

= S

£

= | ro

Y

n

K =

S

Ss) a Ww

1

Riga = =)

re} oO

From Sedimenter Warning Light (4-7) & Glow Plug Timer (4-5) (4-6)

4 2 1} c w be

< Ww

=

|

=

ewnen TL © DISTRIBUTOR

To Tachometer

(2-3)

Be c

za Ww

ALTERNATOR

at

REGULATOR

[ay = fe)

i

=

=

ao

hk

lunder right front piller | under left front piller

df! = LHD: Located under left front piller RHD;

Located under right front piller

Wiring diagram for European models (continued) (page 1 of 4)

4

I

Wiring diagram for European models (continued) (page 1 of 4) ° (= e = 2 =

METER ECONOMY

G-R (EUR LHD) CHOKE WARNING R-Y

— LIGHT S/W W-B

ROOMS HEATER

BLOWER

S/W

W-B

nan

Ground points

@ = Located on right front fender

C = LHD; Located under right front piller

RHD: Located under left front piller

Wiring diagram for European models (page 2 of 4)

d = LHD: Located under left front piller

RHD: Located under right front piller

272

ier

f

\

>

Seat Belt

Back-up Light

Defogger

G

¢

s

aan’

3

bd

«

WATER TEMP

WATER TEMP SENDER

a)

Ss

a};

ae

FUEL

aes

z| 3

Y-G

FUEL LEVEL

92

alk

= SENDER

z

4

al

i

os?

or

=

Zw

a

aj

Y-R

iia

TACH

(RH

3

c

—'

(LHD)

R-L

z

n

Yn

jog it oO

c ul oO

1o)

e

o)

w

fa)

e w

a)

a2

12) 3

=o re

5

we

v Ss)

a ae

Fs

wS

From Ignition Coil

or HA Coil (1-3)

= fog

> < a

foal

SPEED ALARM (SAA) =

SEAT BELT

a

WARNING

e2

ae

= RELLY

ae

gw

a

neal

a

—i

Pe

cc

= 7p)

bE Je o St

z wa iS)

=

LH

s

RH

5x 5S

eo

W

5

©

w

a

o

ls

a

Ww

=

wu

a

Bal

a

sg]

9

=|

=

fog o

c oO

3fal 2 = «

v

a

ue

= 2

A

o s

&

r 4

il

1

——+—

@——-+-

piller

c

2

1

4 @ = Located on center of back panel

it piller

Oe eee Be, i Wiring diagram for European models (continued) (page 2 of 4)

a

Sd Le

273

Sun Roof

.

Seat Heater

>

a

C

FF

d

1

f

jE

1

SEAT HEATER

5

=

1

y

(RHD)

=

Q

=)

‘j|

SEAT HEATER S/W

”

c

O

3| 3) Ww

o

S

uw

©)

Ww

ie)

@ =
|z

=

ax

GB f

2

of

z}

=

a

REAR LH G-B

a

= 3 =

oO

M

=

Oia < o

—

2 1

G8

SIDE LH

9

9

a

‘

pe

ai

a

= =

@

nc

°

>

all

LH

Ls

o

a

o

x

ie

a

a

2

=

3]

2)

ol

S|

3

1

1

Wiring diagram for European models (continued) (page 2 of 4)

1

we ‘aul

274

Turn Signal and Hazard

Harn

I

oi Stop Light

Headlight Cleaner

v

8

HAZ-HORN 10A

STOP 15A

w 2

5

; SIGNAL

&

HAZARD

WARNING

S/W

=

DO!

fa

= n

2

O/)

(ss x

cx

Zz

ae

ee

oO

oa

eo)

2

: fo

= 3

= ray

a

4

ri

€

E

P}S= = oO

aM: ed

w

Be

=a

2

5= 4

me3 w

‘

8

Sa

$ re




DIMMER

S/W

8>

W-B

>t>SUE

>

Lyne —«-

——}_—§.

o———

Sa —————————

=

ont piller

C =

Located

——©@:

oe

on center of back panel

front piller

Ce

Eh,

ee

Wiring diagram for European models (continued) (page 3 of 4)

SEE a

ay ee

277

5

tars

Headlight (Ex. W. Germany) =

=

SS

Taillight and Illumination (For W

Germany)

A

dD fice ||

)

()

HEAD

LH

HEAD

10A

‘@)

RH

10A

O

O

oO

TAIL LH

TAIL RH

10A

10A

O

5

G-O

< 1

To Headlight Cleaner Relay (2-8)

ao

«

2) a

i

os

ele;

w

©:

E

=)

Sicines

2

ak

I

x

E BN |

9

¢

RY

A

16

Al

:

S

oO

‘ ¢

CLEARANCE, RH

é

Le

ey

5

3

t)

I

BY

2 a= ei

G

B (S/D)

BW (S/D)

shel (qyseus

3

z5u

0056 z20

«| e|

al

«|

:

Ww-B >

Qo eR

Wiring diagram for European models (continued) (page 4 of 4)

283 SYSTEMS Air Conditioner, Cooler and Heater

LOCATION

(nee 1-7, 2-1

Back-up Light

SYSTEMS

LOCATION

Rear Wiper and Washer

3-3

oe

2-7

cS

3-5

Seat Belt

Charging

1-3

Starting

CIG. Lighter

3-8

Stop Light

Clock

3-8

Sun ‘Roof

2-4,4-6

Taillight and Illumination

Combination

E>

Meter

Cruise Control

Turn Signal and Hazard

Defogger

Windshield Wiper and Washer

Emission Control

Glow Plug

at Or

3-1

?>

3-4

Abbreviations

1-4

A/C

Air conditioner

4-4

A/T CB CMH FL

Automatic Transmission Circuit Breaker Choke Mixture Heater Fusible Link

J/B

Junction Block

L/B

Liftback Type

LH

Left-hand

M/T RH

Manual Transmission Right-hand

S/D S/W

Sedan Type Switch

VSV W/ W/O

Vacuum With Without

c/P H/T W/G

Coupe Hardtop Wagon

Headlight

3-7

Horn

3-2

Idle-up

Switching Valve

Wire Colour Code

Ignition

Interior Light

S:/

Power Source

1-1, 4-2

Radio and Stereo

4-1

B GR O V BR L P Ww G LG R ay

Black Grey Orange Violet Brown Light Blue Pink White Green Light Green Red Yellow

The first letter indicates the basic wire colour and the second letter indicates the colour of

Rear View Mirror

2-8

the stripes.

Wiring diagram system index for North American models

284

i Starting

Power Source

Ig nition

4

B lL. C D

; Js

F

1

Ss

1

9°

IGNITION SiW

Ge 1

= Ss

Ww

2

2

a kb

s




5) rs)

o

Ee

O

«

Zz

as ae Ee

5

Sw

HA 9

a

= z o)

B

a ss

IGNITION

COIL

fea}

=

=

wo

o

: c

2

(©)

So =i-= cS 2 w °

q




my

d

=

es =

o

re) Ww

ir 5

&

Y i) ie

BLOWER MOTOR

Oo ad

ae

=

=

°4

=

el

a z= c

eee

=

Es a=

©

==

2

=

a

wn 1S

.z

oe

me &&

8 *a

faa i ®o

o

uo

8

mie

[oes

BLOWER RESISTOR O

ra r| 9 F

4

a

fog CF

oO

al B-W A/C AMPLIFIER

=

5

oO

a

wis

is o

a

c/s

=]

a|o

a

wo

vf

IS)

2?

q

= 8

=e eo 30

4 iS =

=

e

a8 io} 23

w F

SS

HEATER

a

o

o

=

=

ss

a

ene

d

BLOWER

S/W

ES

é

Ground points

Q

=

Located on right front fender

C

=

Located

under right front piller

Wiring diagram for North American models (page 2 of 4)

da

Located under left front piller

1

289

a

Combination

Meter

3

B

B 30A )HEATER cB

R-L

3

€

>

R-L

ch c

3 To Washer

W-B

Change Valve (3-3)

OIL PRESSURE S/W

WATER TEMP.

WATER TEMP. SENDER

Y-G

}

ane

FUEL LEVEL SENDER

=

Y-R

a O

O

eI c

3

To ’’CHARGE” Fuse (1-3)

5 a E 6 iS)

2 € lo}

{S)

&

2

©a

5

ES jee

“@ oO

:

c

=

o

oO

oO

2

=

oO

1

ont piller

cd

=

(a

4

1

Locate) on center of nack panel

ee

oe emeeseeee Ep

E

e

leee

Wiring diagram for North American models (continued) (page 2 of 4)

ee

db

290

Seat

Back-up Light

From ‘‘DOME”

Belt

O =]

Defogger

re o

O ° iS 5 = fe)

Fuse (3-7)

R-L

ONINYYM M/S ADOTNN

dN-yOVELHON1 M/S

AD

O

COMPUTER

13SO

JWNS3H O

M8 ga

NIVWM/S

O

dW YOLVOIOGNI

3SINYS

YOLVNLOV

O

w =) < >

ay

(L/W) M/S HOLN1TD

c

M/S 1TOYNLNOD

93990330 AW13¥

O SEAT BELT =

RELAY

sg)

§5 Ras

2 ©

=

ac B-R

B-R

o AIR

FLOW METER

OPENING CIRCUIT RELAY

INJECTOR

4

o

s

=

Located on left fender

©ou

=

fea)‘

=

a

ao

C = Located on intake manifold

Wiring diagram for 1985 and later North American models — typical (2 of 7)

301

ve |vs |raa]eary

[cor]#10] sralve ||

ei [e2i|sre] seo] | +0 From

Neutral Start S/W or Clutch Start Relay

Ox. SENSOR

ao

R-W

—4—

FPU VSV B-R

2

1

LG

LG

G-W

From

“stop” Fuse (3-8) To Cruise Control

Computer

(3-8)

CONTROL VALVE B-R

B-R

2 Baa

G-R

Lee

et

Ae

nae

VW

To Cruise Control Computer (3-7)

B-W

To Magnet Clutch

+B BRI B-R

(2-5)

*B1

Y-B

Y-B

YL

30

Y-L

seer

To A/C Amplifier

7

Y-L

From

vc

(3-1)

“GAUGE”

Fuse

vs

BR 8

5

B

BR

EGR GAS TEMP. SENSOR 1 2 —2 THG

CHECK

ENGINE

4 ) (COMB. METER)

REG

WATER BRY 11

RG THERMO

SENSOR 2

Sho ea R

=| ac = EF! ECU

x [ee}

a o

4 THROTTLE

POSITION SENSOR B

s B-R L-B

CHECK CONNECTOR 12 a r 8 VE ae

FP

13. 4

To Electrical

Idle-up VSV (34) B B-Y

L -W

B-R

R-W B

=)

Ww

co

3

B

BR

BR

ee

eet

Ox, SENSOR BR

a a

BR

d = Located on left kick panel

@ = Located on J/B No. 4

Wiring diagram for 1985 and later North American models — typical (3 of 7)

& = Located on unde Located on left ¢

302 mT

Ignition

B-O

DISTRIBUTOR

® GREEN

B-O

(4A-F)

IGNITION COIL

IGNITION

/

CHECK CONNECTOR 3%

Ws |

IGNITER

IGNITER

|| 3

(O)

FILTER NOISE

DISTRIBUTOR

DISTRIBUTOR

B (4A-F)

To Check Connector (2-2) Emission Control Computer (2-2)

To A/C Amplifier (2-5)

To Tachometer (3-2)

& = Located on under left rear pillar (E. W/G) Located on left quarter rear (W/G)

Wiring diagram for 1985 and later North American models — typical (4 of 7)

303

Charging

10A IGN

w

9

To Fan Radiator (2-3) Relay

ft

a

(1-3) To EFI Main Relay

mE

B-O

B-O

CHARGE

ENGINE MAIN RELAY

q

=)

_—

—

WARNING

pas Se

2s

Q “4

2 DQ

LIGHT (COMB.METER)

Oo 2 % 9

FOR wee

6

4

5 Y;

Fa

®-®

Co

Rees ii

®

12a

&

Control Emission To (2-1) Computer

es

2 >

c

bf

> From Brake Warning

Light (3-1)

1

w x (e) ade

W-B8

S) a Ww

To Radiator Fan and Condenser System

sie

Fan

Ne

(24)

sat)

=

(fe

>

< L = WwW B-Y

ALTERNATOR (W/ IC Regulater)

d e

Wiring diagram for 1985 and later North American models — typical (5 of 7)

304

eS Emission Control A

B ¢ —

-

D F

2

Qa

= Ex

C

°

cw

>

=)

%

SE le)

fo)

2

? 5

a

a

©

) EZ 3S

8-0

racarrigc)

°

—

a I

= a2

oe

E

2>

2

ceEe

=

if

;

Ss

E

1

1

(ve

Zu

s

:2

=

ms Et a

°

a

:$

=

aw

5