125 64 18MB
English Pages 178 Year 1975
Toyota Carina
.
a
Owners
=
Workshop
47
+
Mianuall
erste
by J H Haynes Associate Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers
and B L Chalmers-Hunt TEng (CEI), AMIMI, AMIRTE, AMVBRA Models covered
ia
arn 17, Dao
UK: USA:
Toyota Carina Saloon, 1588 cc Toyota Carina Sedan, 96.9 cu in
ISBN
a
2
0 85696
150 7
© JH Haynes and Company Limited 1975
oe.
All rights any form recording in writing
Kuno
reserved. or by any or by any from the
No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, information storage or retrieval system, without permission copyright holder.
Printedin England toes
BP
s
HAYNES PUBLISHING GROUP SPARKFORD
YEOVIL
SOMERSET
distributed in the USA by
HAYNES PUBLICATIONS INC 861 LAWRENCE DRIVE NEWBURY PARK CALIFORNIA 91320 USA
10
162
6797
AA
ENGLAND
| ee:WEST SUSSEX LIBRARIES
—S—
Fuel Tank
/
Wy //if
if
Front Fuel Tube
Fig. 3.30. Fuel lines and tank - Type 2 (Sec. 17) 4
a
Chapter 3/Carburation; fuel and emission control systems
5 The choke valve closes fully at an atmospheric temperature of 77° F (25° C) and one graduation of the scale on the thermo-
stat case is equal to a 99 F (5° C) change.
55
can be assumed that the voltage regulator is satisfactory. However, if neither operates then check the regulator as described in Chapter 10. 4 To check
the sender unit first disconnect the wire from the
15 Idle speed - basic adjustment
unit at the connector. Switch on the ignition and the gauge should read ‘Empty’. Now connect the lead to earth and the gauge should read ‘Full’. Allow 30 seconds for each reading.
1 With the engine at normal operating temperature screw the idle adjustment screw in as far as possible without using force
sender unit.
(Fig. 3.28). 2
Unscrew
it three
complete
turns
from
the
fully
closed
position.
5
lf both
the situations
are correct
then the fault lies in the
6 If the gauge does not read ‘Empty’ with the wire disconnected from fhe sender unit, the wire should then also be disconnected from the gauge to the sender unit.
7
\f not, the gauge is faulty and should be replaced. (For details
see Chapter 10.) 8
16 Carburettor - adjustments
With the wire disconnected from the sender unit and earthed,
if the gauge reads anything other than ‘Full’ check the rest of the
circuit (see Chapter 10 for the wiring diagram). To enable the carburettor to be correctly set
a vacuum gauge,
adaptor and electric tachometer are necessary. 1
Start the engine and allow to reach normal operating temper-
ature. 2 3 4
Connect the tachometer and vacuum gauge. Adjust the engine idle speed, as described in Section 15. Turn the throttle adjustment and the idle adjustment screw
slowly
until
maximum
vacuum
9 Toremove the unit first remove the tank from the car. 10 Undo and remove the screws and spring washers securing the unit to the top of the tank. Lift away the unit taking care not to bend the wire arm. Recover the gasket. 11 Refitting the sender unit is the reverse sequence to removal. Always use a new gasket.
is obtained at the specified idling
speed (see Specifications). 5 Slowly screw in the idle adjustment
20 Exhaust emission control systems - general description
reached drop.
where
6 For Federal
engines operating Exhaust Emission
Vehicles being operated in areas controlled by the US Federal Regulations governing exhaust emissions must have their ancillary equipment modified and accurately tuned so that carbon monoxide, hydrocarbons and nitrogen levels produced by the engine are within specified limits. To achieve this there are several systems used. Depending on the pollution standard required, the systems may be fitted either
the engine
speed
screw until the point is or vacuum level just begins to
in areas under control of the US Regulations, it will be necessary to
have the exhaust emission levels re-checked (see Section 2).
17 Fuel tank - cleaning and repair 1
With
time
it is likely that sediment
of the fuel tank.
Condensation,
will collect in the bottom
resulting
singly or as a combination of them all. The solution to the problem is achieved by modifying various parts of the engine and fuel supply system as will be seen in subsequent Sections.
in rust and other im-
purities is sometimes found in the fuel tank. 2 When the tank is removed, it should be rigorously flushed out and turned upside down, and if facilities are available, steam cleaned.
3 Repairs to the fuel tank to stop leaks are best carried out using resin adhesive and hardeners as supplied by most accessory shops. In cases of repairs being done to large areas, glass fibre mats or perforated zinc sheet may be required to give the area support. If any soldering, welding or brazing is contemplated, the tank must be steamed out to remove any traces of fuel vapour. It is extremely dangerous to use naked flames or heat tools on a fuel tank without this precaution, even though the tank may have been ‘empty’ for a considerable time.
18 Fuel pipes and lines - general
1
Check
all flexible
hoses
for signs of perishing,
cracking
or
damage and replace if necessary. 2 Carefully inspect all metal fuel pipes for signs of corrosion, cracking, kinking or distortion and replace any pipe that is suspect. These pipes are clipped to the underbody.
19 Fuel gauge sender unit - fault diagnosis 1
The
sender
unit
is mounted
on
the fuel tank
and
access is
gained once the tank has been removed. This is a straightforward operation. 2 \f the fuel gauge does not work correctly then the fault is either in the sender unit, the gauge in the instrument panel, the wiring or the voltage regulator. 3 First test for operation, switch on the ignition and observe if
the fuel and temperature gauges operate. If only one operates it
Fig. 3.31. Accelerator linkage Accelerator pedal support bracket Accelerator pedal Accelerator pedal rod support bearing 4 Torsion spring 5 Accelerator pedal rod sub-assembly 6 Accelerator connecting rod sub-assembly ip Accelerator connecting rod boot 8 Accelerator link rod bracket, No.1 9 Accelerator link rod sub-assembly 10 Accelerator link rod bracket, No.2 11. Accelerator connecting rod 7
2 3
12 13 14
Accelerator connecting rod end Accelerator torque rod bracket sub-assembly Accelerator torque rod sub-assembly
56 1G Switeh
Air Cleaner
il} ahi]
Fuse
(Turn)
(BY)
|
Ventilation Hose
a
7
an
f
°)
rly
x
T 1
|
8
f
C
Remarks Computor
When |
position
| |
(we) i
a
the VSV
|
Valve
the V the
in OF F aur
flows
between the air passages of A and B also C and D While
a
1s in ON
position
the air flow is cut off
|
The air does not flow between the passage of C and E
|
= +e ae
=
When the VSV position
the
1s in ON aw
flows
between the air passages of D .
.
Ventilation
|
and € also F and G
|
Hose
the VSV
|
the air is cut off
ea
oe
>= sae
—= 7
= € 3
= z||
3s
e
:
TG)
3
s||= =
=
al)
°S|)
L
|
fee!
\
—————
OO
Computor
Q7
A Distributor
RS U
(BLUE/WHITE) for TP (RED/BLUE)
a)
ai
Asayieg
Throttle Positioner
eet |
=e
| —
= r) eat
(
Check Valve
Charcoal Canister
Fuel Tank
Safety Type Cap
A Fig. 3.34. Engine connections - full emission control system - Part 2
/
Chapter 3/Carburation; fuel and emission control systems
21 Mixture control system (emission control system)
With the engine under sudden deceleration conditions the air intake will become insufficient and cause incomplete com bustion of the fuel. This will result in a greater emission of carbon monoxide and hydrocarbons to the atmosphere. A mixture control valve is fitted and designed to open momentarily and allow fresh air to enter the inlet manifold under these conditions thereby ensuring complete combustion. When the engine is idling or running at a low speed a speed sensor will emit a signal and the current from a computor will stop, thus switching off the vacuum valve. The vacuum valve will remain
closed,
rendering
the
mixture
control
valve
inoperative.
Under normal running at medium and high speeds, signals from a speed sensor will allow current to flow from the computor to the vacuum switching valve, opening the valve and allowing a free passage from the mixture control valve sensing
M.C, Valve Intake Manifold
57
hose to the inlet manifold. This condition will remain as longas there is no sudden change in the inlet manifold vacuum. The pressures at both sides of the valve diaphragm will remain equal because of the regulating port connecting the upper and lower diaphragm chambers. If the car is suddenly decelerated from a high speed when the
vacuum switching valve is open, the mixture control valve will open, momentarily, and allow fresh air to enter into the manifold. The pressures on both sides of the diaphragm becomes equal quickly through the regulating port. The diaphragm is then returned by the return spring so that the mixture control valve remains open, momentarily, when the car is suddenly decelerated. To check the operation of the system requires the use of special equipment but a round check can be made by starting the engine and seeing if there is a momentary vacuum at the inlet
when control
the engine is decelerated. system
[a
is in operation.
Computor
Fig. 3.37. Mixture control system - sudden decelleration (Sec. 21)
This will show Use the hand
if the mixture
for this but take
Chapter 3/Carburation; fuel and emission control systems
58 care
as the fingers will be near the fan. To achieve best results
the
rear
of the
car
should
be jacked
up and
the
rear
wheels
driven. Alternatively, detach the vacuum sensing hose at the vacuum switch valve and suck the vacuum sensing hose with the mouth. lf air can be drawn into the mixture valve for a second or so the valve is satisfactory. If this cannot be done the valve should be renewed.
22 Transmission
controlled
spark
system
(emission
control
system) The objective of this system is to control the release of nitrogen oxides contained in the exhaust gases to a minimal level. It comprises a computer and other components which regulate the ignition vacuum advance by monitoring the speed of the car and engine coolant temperature. No regular maintenance is called for but in the event of a suspected malfunction test the
TO VACUUM SWITCHING VALVE
components in the following manner:
A
TO INTAKE MANIFOLD
Distributor diaphragm unit and TCS on/off test
1 To test that the distributor vacuum diaphragm is in good order run the engine to normal operating temperature. Raise the rear wheels and support the rear axle on stands. Securely chock the front wheels. 2 Accelerate the engine and have an assistant note the movement of the vernier adjuster on the distributor body. The TCS
alters the distributor advance characteristics when
the car ‘road’
speed is between 16-62 mph (26-100 kph); the distributor should appear as shown
Keep fingers away from fan.
in diagram ‘A’ (Fig. 3.40) between these speeds
and as diagram ‘B’ when below or above this speed range and the distributor advance mechanism is working normally. This testing procedure
Fig. 3.38. Testing operation of mixture control system (Sec. 21)
also
proves
the on/off
positions
of the system
as a
whole. 3 An alternative method which is also less dangerous, as it does not require the jacking-up of the rear wheels for speed testing, is to remove the hoses from the nozzles ‘F’ and ‘G’ of the vacuum switching
valve and
in their place connect
two
vacuum
gauges
which can be seen by the driver. 4 Road test the car and when the engine is at its normal operating temperature note the operation of the vacuum gauges. 5 The main disadvantage of this last method is that it does not
Computer
indicate the condition of the distributor diaphragm unit.
B 1
Vacuum switching valve Check
the vacuum
switching valve for leaks by blowing air or
smoke (cigarette smoke) through the nozzles. 2 Check the vacuum switching valve electrically by unpluging the connector and then using a circuit tester check for shorting
Vacuum switching valve Thermo
between each of the connector plug terminals in turn and the vacuum switching valve casing. 3 Test for open circuit by checking the resistance between the connector plug (+) terminal and each of the terminals in turn,
the resistance should be 28.0 ohms.
sensor
Fig. 3.39. Transmission controlled spark system (Sec. 22)
C
Thermo sensor test The thermo
T.C:S.
(ON
sensor
is screwed
into the base of the cooling
eGo, OFF
Vacuum Advance Cut
Vacuum
Advance
Vacuum
Advance
Original set Line Vacuum
Advance Cut & Vacuum
Retard
+—
Vacuum
a
Atmosphere
a
Fig. 3.40. Movement of distributor octane selector (Sec. 22)
B
y, system
thermostat
Chapter 3/Carburation; fuel and emission control systems housing
and
it should
only
be removed
if
essential. Test by connecting a circuit tester when a resistance of between 15 and 30 kilo-ohms should be registered. When the engine is cold, or approximately operating temperature.
D
2 kilo-ohms with the engine at
Computer and speed sensor
1 It will be appreciated that if the tests described in part ‘A’ of this Section have proved positive then there cannot be a fault in either the Computer or Speed Sensor units. Where, however, the distributor, the Vacuum Switching Valve and the Thermo Sensor have been individually tested as described, but the TCS system still operates incorrectly then the fauit must be in the computer or speed sensor. 2 The cemputer unit can only be tested by the local Toyota dealer or by substitution of another unit. 3 The Speed Sensor operates by the action of the speedometer head. Correct functioning can be checked by pulling out the speed marker relay connector and connecting a circuit tester
(Fig. 3.41).
Disconnect
the speedometer
drive
at the trans-
mission housing and turn the cable by hand observing that there are six on/off cycles for each revolution of the cable. If this is not the case, renew the speedometer head. 4 Having carried out all the preceeding checks and tests, any component
which
fails
must
be
renewed
as a unit,
no
59
Checking the operation of the system should be entrusted to the local Toyota deater. However, a quick check may be made by the owner. When the positioner diaphragm is held in the return position by the spring the system is ‘on’ whereas the system is ‘off’ when the positioner is released from the throttle link due to vacuum acting on the positioner diaphragm. If a vacuum gauge and long hose are available disconnect the positioner diaphragm hose from the vacuum switching valve and connect the vacuum gauge hese in its place. Connect the other end of the hose to the gauge. Drive the car throughout its operating range and check that during operation when a vacuum is indicated on the gauge, the throttle positioner is ‘off’. When there is nc vacuum the system is ‘on’.
24 Charcoal canister storage system (emission contre! system) The charcoal canister storage system is designed to lead the petrol vapours in the fuel system into the inlet manifold and its operation is shown in Fig. 3.44. Its operation is very reliable but
there are several points that should be checked during maintenance service.
repair
SPEEDOMETER
CABLE
being possible. WIRE HARNESS SIDE CONNECTOR (for Computor)
23 Throttle positioner system (emission control system)
— ZA
y SPEED
computer
———
i
When the engine is decelerated the air/fuel mixture supply becomes insufficient, causing incomplete combustion in the engine and allowing a greater discharge of carbon monoxide and hydrocarbons to the atmosphere. To cope with this condition, a throttle positioner is fitted to open the throttle valve slightly more than at idling speed when the engine is being decelerated. By slightly increasing the air/fuel supply at this time, complete combustion will take place to minimise carbon monoxide and hydrocarbons to the atmosphere. During medium and high speed motoring the speed sensor signal allows the vacuum switching valve to be energised by the
SENSOR
=
=>
i
ar)
Fig. 3.41. Checking speed sensor (Sec. 22)
Throttle valve
which causes the valve to open so enabling fresh air
to be led into the positioner diaphragm. The positioner is then set by the tension of the return spring. When the accelerator
pedal and
is released the throttle valve strikes against the positioner being
unable
to return
to the full idling position
remains
slightly open. When the car is driven at low speed a signal from the speed sensor actuates the computer, this in turn sends a current to the vacuum switching valve, causing the vacuum switching valve to be closed and the valve shut off. This allows the inlet manifold vacuum to act on the positioner diaphragm and release the positioner from the throttle valve. The throttle valve then returns to its idling speed position.
Vacuum
switching valve
Computer
Fig. 3.42. Throttle positioner system (Sec. 23)
Vacuum
Atmosphere
Fig. 3.43. Operation of throttle
positioner (Sec. 23)
=)
Chapter 3/Carburation; fuel and emission control systems
60
Intake Manifold
Safety Type Cap
Vacuum Siwthcing Valve
Fuel Tank
Check Valve
Charcoal Canister
Fig. 3.44. Charcoal canister storage system (Sec. 24)
Safety Type Cap
CHARCOAL
CANISTER
SIDE
Fig. 3.46. Exhaust system
Fig. 3.45. Check valve and safety cap
(Sec. 24) 1 Carefully examine the fuel tank for damage, corrosion or leaks. Rectify any fault found. Check the air-tightness of the fuel tank safety cap. 2 Inspect the thermal expansion tank to ensure that it is not cracked or deformed.
Exhaust.pipe support bracket Exhaust pipe gasket Front exhaust pipe assembly No. 1 exhaust pipe support Exhaust pipe gasket Exhaust pipe centre section No. pipe support Tail 2 pexhaust i bl ANAARWHY ail pipe assembly
3 Disconnect the canister and inspect for signs of blockage. Clean if necessary with an air jet. 4 Check all hoses and clips for security. Renew any hoses that have deteriorated.
ao
Chapter 3/Carburation; fuel and emission control systems
61
Fig. 3.47. Exhaust manifold and attachments Automatic choke stove inlet pipe
2 3
Exhaust manifold gasket Exhaust manifold
4 5
Stud Union choke stove
6 7
Automatic outlet pipe Clamp
Fig. 3.48. Inlet manifold and attachments
7 . Stove inlet hose
4
Intake manifold
2 3
5 6
Water bypass gasket Water bypass outlet
Elbow Automatic stove inlet pipe
7
sub-assembly
8
Plug
Automatic stove outlet sub-assembly
39
Intake manifold to head gasket
25 Fault diagnosis - carburation; fuel and emission control systems Unsatisfactory engine performance and excessive fuel consumption are not necessarily the fault of the fuel sy$tem or carburettor. In fact, they more commonly occur as a result of ignition faults. Before acting on the fuel system it is necessary to check the ignition system first. Even though a fault may lie in the fuel system it will be difficult to trace unless the ignition system is correct.
This table may
also be read in conjunction with the chart applicable to exhaust emission control models.
Symptom
Reason/s
Smell of petrol when engine is stopped
Leaking fuel lines or unions Leaking fuel tank
Smell of petrol when engine is idling
Leaking fuel line unions between pump and carburettor
Overflow of fuel from float chamber due to wrong level setting or ineffective needle valve or punctured float
Chapter 3/Carburation; fuel and emission control systems
62
Symptom
Reason/s
a
Excessive fuel consumption float chamber faults
for reasons not covered by leaks or
Difficult starting, uneven running, lack of power, cutting out
Worn needle valve Sticking needle One or more blockages Float chamber fuel level too low or needle sticking Fuel pump not delivering sufficient fuel Inlet manifold gaskets leaking, or manifold fractured
Fault diagnosis - exhaust emission control system
When trouble is being experienced with the fuel system it is recommended that if possible the car be taken to the local Toyota garage. The reason for this is that quite often a fuel system problem does not necessarily originate from the fuel system but from a fault in the ignition or cooling systems or their controls. To find the cause quickly requires the use of test equipment which the average owner driver does not possess. The following chart covers some of the more common symptoms and causes to assist the owner in cases where expert advice is not immediately available.
Symptom
Reason/s
Engine loss of power
Insufficient engine compression Valve adjustment incorrect
Air cleaner blocked Ignition timing incorrect Distributor contact breaker points gap incorrect Engine difficult to start (Ignition system)
(Fuel system)
Poor acceleration or misfiring and backfiring on deceleration
(Ignition system) (Fuel system)
Discharged battery Ignition timing incorrect Distributor contact breaker points gap incorrect Spark plugs gap incorrect or dirty Automatic choke operation incorrect Carburettor adjustment incorrect Distributor contact breaker points gap incorrect Ignition timing incorrect Ignition cable resistance incorrect Carburettor adjustment incorrect
Blockage in fuel system Idling rough
Air cleaner blocked
Ignition system malfunction Fuel system malfunction PCV ventilation hoses cracked or connections defective Malfunction in inlet or exhaust system Valve adjustment incorrect Leaks in manifold or valves
Engine runs on when ignition system switched off
Incorrect spark plugs Idle speed too fast
Ignition timing incorrect Engine/cooling system overheating Too low grade of fuel Petrol smells
Petrol leak from evaporative emission control system Petrol leak at carburettor Petrol leak from tank or lines
Blow-by gas smells
PCV system hose disconnected or cracked
Excessive fuel consumption
Malfunction in TCS system Malfunction in ignition system Malfunction in fuel system
a
Chapter 4 Ignition system Contents
Condenser - removal, testing and replacement Contact breaker points - adjustment
...
Contact breaker points - removal and replacement
ons
Distributor - dismantling, overhaul and reassembly. Distributor - lubrication Distributor - removal Distributor - replacement
Emission control legislation and its effect on d-i-y adjustments and repairs a ee sen rt : 444546
47 48 49 5755 . 6.3. Gearbox
59
internal components
Gear thrust cone spring Shaft snap ring
Needle roller bearing Ball
Radial ball bearing
First gear bushing
571
Radial ball bearing Reverse gear bushing Reverse gear Transmission clutch hub No. 3 Transmission hub sleeve No. 3 Spacer Spacer Shim Nut
52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59
Input shaft Roller Hole snap ring Shaft snap ring Synchroniser ring No. 1 Synchromesh shifting key spring No. 1 OANAAAWH™ Synchromesh shifting key spring No.1 Transmission clutch hub No.2 Transmission hub sleeve No.2 Third gear sub-assembly Second gear sub-assembly Synchroniser ring No.2 Synchromesh shifting key spring No.1 Synchromesh shifting key No.1 Transmission clutch hub No.7 Transmission hub sleeve No.7 First gear sub-assembly
58
49 50
Radial ball bearing Counter gear Ball Cylindrical roller bearing Countershaft reverse gear Shaft snap ring Reverse idler gear thrust washer
Reverse idler gear Bimetal formed bushing Reverse idler gear shaft Shaft retaining bolt
Shaft snap ring Bal!
Speedometer drive gear Shim Gear thrust cone spring Mainshaft Washer with bolt Plate washer
A
83
Fig. 6.4. Gearbox extension housing assembly Slotted spring pin Selector fork No. 1 Spring seat
Spring Ball bearing Selector fork No. 2 Selector fork No. 3 Pin DOANDAARWH™ Selector rod No.
1 Selector rod No. 2 Selector rod No. 3 Gasket Dowel Extension housing Bolt and washer Bush
Oil seal Dust cover Boot Bush Gasket Selector return plate Bolt
Spring Spring seat Knob
Gearchange lever Retainer Spring Ball Shaft Bush Gasket
84
Chapter 6/Manual gearbox and automatic transmission
4 Refer to Chapter 2, and drain the cooling system. Slacken the radiator top hose clips and remove the top hose. 5 Working inside the car undo and remove the console securing screws. There are two each side of the moulding. (photo) 6 Unscrew the gearchange lever knob. (photo) 7 Untie the leather thong at the top of the gearchange lever
gaiter and lift away the console. (photo) 8 These photos (2.8A and 2.8B) show console mounting brackets. 9 Undo and remove the screws
the location
securing the gearchange
of the lever
be necessary
to disconnect
the small
pipe located
at the front
end of the manifold. (photo) 21 Make a note of the electrical connections at the rear of the starter motor solenoid. Disconnect the cables. (photo)
22 Undo and remove the bolts securing the starter motor to the engine backplate. Draw the starter motor forwards and lift away from the side of the engine. (photo) 23 Working under thé car again, disconnect the clutch release arm return spring. 24 Undo and remove
the two
bolts and spring washers
securing
rubber gaiter retaining plate. (photo)
the clutch slave cylinder to the side of the clutch housing. Tie
10 Slide the rubber gaiter and retaining plate up, and away from,
the cylinder back to one side. (photo)
the gearchange lever. (photo)
25 Unscrew the speedometer cable knurled nut from the side of the gearbox extension housing. Draw the cable from the drive
11 Slide the rubber gromment up the gearchange lever. (photo) 12 Undo and remove the four screws securing the gearchange lever to the top of the extension housing. The gearchange lever
gear assembly. (photo) 26 Take
care
not to lose the little felt seal at the end of the
may now be lifted up, and away. (photo)
cable. (photo)
13 Working
27 Disconnect the reverse light switch cable. 28 Support the weight of the rear of the engine with a small jack and then undo and remove the gearbox to crossmember
under
the car,
mark
the relative positions of the
propeller shaft and pinion companion flanges so that they may be refitted in their original positions. Undo and remove the four securing nuts and bolts and separate the two flanges. (photo)
14 Draw the propeller shaft rearwards from the rear of the gearbox and withdraw the propeller shaft from under the car. (photo) 15 Soak the silencer and exhaust pipe flange securing bolts in penetrating oil. Undo and remove the two nuts and bolts and separate
the joint. Tie the exhaust
pipe back,
out of the way.
(photo) ‘16 Undo and remove
the twin exhaust
pipe clamp securing bolt
and separate the clamp halves. (photo) 17 Undo
and
remove
the nuts and
back
the
lockwasher
four securing bolts (two each away the crossmember. (photo)
tabs and undo
end
and
remove
of the crossmember).
the
Lift
30 Lower the engine support jack a little to give access to the clutch bellhousing top securing bolts. F 31 Undo and remove the remaining bolts, spring washers and nuts securing the clutch bellhousing to the rear of the engine.
(photo) bolts secuirng
the exhaust
downpipe to the exhaust manifold. (photo) 18 Lift away the front half of the exhaust system. (photo) 19 Refer to Chapter 3, and remove the 20 It is now necessary to remove the better access to the starter motor. Undo bolts, nuts and washers. Lift away the
2.8a Console front mounting bracket
mounting securing bolts. (photo) 29 Bend
air cleaner. exhaust manifold to gain and remove the securing exhaust manifold. It will
32 Check that all gearbox attachments have then with the help of a second person take gearbox. 33 Lower the engine support jack further until clearance between the top of the bellhousing of the body. 34 Ease the gearbox rearwards ensuring that
2.8b Console rear mounting bracket
been released and the weight of the there is sufficient and the underside
the weight of the
2.9 Removal of gearchange lever rubber gaiter retaining plate
:
ee
2.10 Removal of rubber gaiter and rewint
ST
2.13 Disconnecting propeller shaft from
2.14 Detaching propeller shaft from gear-
rear axle
box
> x . 2.16 Exhaust downpipe support bracket-
..... 2.17 Exhaust downpipe to manifold attachment
%
2.20 Removal of exhaust manifold
2
2.15 Disconnecting silencer from exhaust pipe
; _ 2.18 Lifting away exhaust system front half
2.28 Crossmember centre mounting bolts removal
2.25 Speedometer cable released from gear box
2.26 Felt seal at end of speedometer cable
2.29 Removal of crossmember securing bolts
2.31 Clutch bellhousing securing bolt removal
Bele
OS,
.
ER,
3.2 Clutch release arm removal
a
3.5 Clutch bellhousing removal
ea
3.6 These washers must not be misplaced
3.3 Front bearing retainer removal
»
3.7 Lifting away gearchange lever retainer
yi unit
is not supported
Chapter 6/Manual gearbox and automatic transmission on
the
input shaft
which
is easily
bent.
(photo) 35 Finally lift the gearbox away from under the car. 36 Before any work is carried out on the gearbox it should be thoroughly washed in paraffin or Gunk and dried using a non-fluffy rag. 37 Replacement is the reverse sequence to removal. Do not forget to refill the gearbox with the recommended grade of oil.
3
retaining clips. Remove the release bearing assembly. 2 Remove the release arm from inside the clutch bellhousing.
(photo) 3 Undo and remove the four bolts and spring washers securing the front bearing retainer to the inner face of the clutch bellhousing. Slide the retainer from the input shaft. (photo) 4 Recover the paper gasket from the retainer or bellhousing face.
5 Undo and remove the bolts and spring washers that secure the clutch bellhousing to the front face of the main casing. Lift
Manual gearbox - dismantling
away the bellhousing.
6 Place the complete
unit on a firm bench and ensure that you
have the following tools spanners etc.,) available. a)
(in addition
to a normal
range
Good quality circlip pliers - 2 pairs (1 expanding and
(photo)
Recover the gasket.
Note the location of the washers which will be exposed when
the clutch bellhousing is removed. (photos 3:5 and 3:6).
of
7 Undo and remove the four bolts and spring washers securing the gearchange lever retainer to the upper face of the extension housing. Lift away the retainer and recover the gasket. Note the
7 con-
two locating dowels. (photo) 8 Undo and remove the bolt, spring washer and clip retaining
tracting). b) Copper head mallet - at least 2 Ibs. c) Drifts - steel 3/8 inch, and brass 3/8 inch. d) Small containers. e)
87
the speedometer driven gear assembly to the extension housing. 9 Using a screwdriver carefully ease the assembly from its
location in the extension housing. (photos) 10 Undo and remove the bolts and spring washers securing the
Engineer’s vice mounted on firm bench.
Any attempt to dismantle the gearbox without the foregoing is not necessarily impossible, but will certainly be very difficult and inconvenient resulting in possible injury or damage. Read the whole of this Section before starting work. Take care not to let the synchromesh hub assemblies come apart before you want them to. It accelerates wear if the splines of hub and sleeve are changed in relation to each other. As a precaution it is advisable to make a line or mark showing the relative position of hub and sleeve with a dab of paint.
Before finally going ahead with dismantling first ascertain the availability of spare parts - particularly shims, which could be difficult. 1 Remove the clutch release bearing carrier to release arm
extension housing to the main casing. Draw the extension housing rearwards and recover the gasket. (photo) 11 Undo and remove the bolts and spring washers securing the
two halves of the gearbox main casing. (Fig. 6.5). 12 Tap
the
joint
to
release
it
and
lift
away
the
13 No gasket is used between these two mating faces.
14 This photo (3.14) shows the layout of the main casing half with the gear trains, selector rods and forks fitted. 15 Carefully
recover the ball bearing
located
in the central web.
(photo) 16 Gently
tap
the
countershaft
assembly
hammer and lift up from the main casing half. 17 Carefully remove the ball bearing from
with
the
a
3.9b Lifting away speedometer drive
assembly
Ss
3.12 Parting the two halves of main casing
3.14 Layout of gear trains in main casing half
soft
faced
countershaft
a
3.9a Easing out speedometer drive assembly
upper
main casing half. (photo)
3.15 Do not lose this ball bearing
Chapter 6/Manual gearbox and automatic transmission
88
bearing outer track. (photo) 18 Lift away the countershaft assembly. (photo) 19 The mainshaft and input shaft may now be lifted away from
the main casing half. (photo) 20 If necessary
undo
and
remove
the bolt and spring washer
securing the reverse idler gearshaft. 21 Carefully tap out the idler gear shaft and recover the gear and
thrust washers. (photo) 22 The
gearbox
may
now
be
considered
to
be
dismantled.
Normally it will not be necessary to remove the selector forks and rods. Should it be desirable to remove these parts, note the relative positions of the selector forks and rods and tap out the fork retaining spring pins using a suitable diameter parallel pin punch. Draw out the selector rods and recover the two pins, ball
bearing, spring and spring seat. (photo) 23 Thoroughly flush out the interior of the casing halves with paraffin and wipe dry with a non-fluffy rag.
Fig. 6.5. Main casing halves securing bolts. Note differences in
length between bolts1, 2, 3, 4 (Sec. 3)
4
Input shaft (manual gearbox) - dismantling
1
Draw
the
input
shaft
from
the
front
of
the
mainshaft.
(photo) 2 The shaft and bearing are located in the front of the main casing by a large circlip in the outer track of the bearing. 3
To renew the bearing first remove the circlip from the end of
the bearing. 4 Place the outer track of the race on the top of a firm bench vice and drive the input shaft through the bearing. Note that the bearing is fitted with the circlip groove towards the forward end of the input shaft. Lift away the bearing. 5 To remove the spigot bearing needle rollers, use a pair of circlip pliers or a small screwdriver and release the circlip. 6 Lift away the needle rollers from the end of the input shaft.
(photo)
SER
=
5
Mainshaft (manual gearbox) - dismantling
1
Remove the circlip from the front of the mainshaft. (photo)
2
Using
a
screwdriver
detach
the
top
gear
synchroniser
assembly. (photo)
Fig. 6.6. Tapping out slotted spring pin (Sec. 3)
3
Using a pair of circlip pliers remove
the circlip from the rear
end of the mainshaft. (photo)
Shaft No. 1
Shaft No. 2
__WfS _ NN :
u
Shaft No. 3
Fig. 6.7. Location of pins between selector shafts (Sec. 3)
3.17 Ball race outer track locking ball
4 Carefully tap the speedometer drive-gear from the mainshaft. Recover the ball bearing from the hole in the mainshaft. (photo) 5 Remove the second circlip from the rear end of the mainshaft.
6 Hold the mainshaft firmly in the vice and unscrew the large nut. 7
Slide the nut, shim and spacer from the end of the mainshaft.
(photo) 8 Slide the metal disc from the roainehatt noting which way round it is fitted. (photo) 9 Hold the mainshaft as shown in this photo (5.9) and tap the
3.18 Lifting away countershaft assembly
3.19 Lifting away input shaft and mainshaft
3.21 Reverse idler mounted in main casing half
y
IO
4.6 Needle
3.22 Main casing half with selector shafts and forks
:
rollers in end of input shaft
.
a
¢
4.1 Lifting away input shaft
——_ -
5.1 Circlip removal from front of main-
5.2 Sliding off top gear synchroniser
shaft
assembly
: _ _ 5.3 Removing circlip from rear of speed-
— 5.4 Removing speedometer drive gear.
ae . 5.7 Removing nut, shim and spacer from
ometer drive gear
Note the ball bearing in the mainshaft
mainshaft
5.8 Removal of metal disc
5.9 Removal of reverse gear assembly
5.10 Lifting away reverse gear assembly
Py ail
ee eae
‘
Chapter 6/Manual gearbox and automatic transmission
90
.
= oo
ae
-
12.9 Refitting metal disc, shim, spacer
12.11 Refitting speedometer drive gear
and nut
13.4 Mainshaft and input shaft fitted to main casing haif
SESE
NS
i
%
13.5 Refitting countershaft to main cas-
13.9 Lowering extensi on housing into
ing half
position
ES
%
:
13.11 Refitting gearchange lever retainer
if
Chapter 6/Manual gearbox and automatic transmission
rectified:
housing and retain with the bolt, spring washer and clip. Tighten new
First gear Second gear Third gear
the bolt to a torque wrench setting of 3-5 Ib f ft (0.4-0.7 kg f m).
maximum
11 Fit a new gasket to the gearchange lever retainer mating face
_—_0.004-0.010in (0.10-0.25mm) 0.020in (0.5mm) 0.006-0.010in 0.006-0.012in
and
(0.15-0.25mm) 0.020in (0.5mm) (0.15-0.30mm) 0.024in (0.6mm)
12 Turn the gearbox
ee
Secure
with the four bolts and spring
setting
on end and position the washers and cones
the securing bolts to a torque (3-4.5 kg f m).
13 Manual gearbox - reassembly 1 If the selector forks and rods have been removed these should be refitted. This is a direct reversal of the removal procedure. 2 Hold the reverse idler gear and thrust washers in Position in the half casing and slide in the reverse idler shaft. Line up the bolt hole and refit the bolt and spring washer. Tighten the
bolt to a torque wrench setting of 10-13 Ib f ft (1.3-1.8 kg f m). 3 Check the reverse idler thrust clearance which should be 0.002-0.020 in (0.05-0.50 mm) with a maximum limit of 0.039
in (1.0 mm).
the main casing halves clean, carefully
retainer.
of 7.2-11.6 Ib f ft (1-1.6 kg f m). (photo)
—_—__ereeooo
With
the
onto the end of the countershaft and input shaft. 13 Fit a new gasket and replace the clutch bellhousing. Tighten
eee
4
replace
washers - which should be tightened to a torque wrench
Reverse gear 0.008-0.012in (0.20-0.30mm) 0.024in (0.6mm)
dowel
93
lower the main-
wrench
setting of 22-33 Ib f ft
14 Inspect the input shaft bearing retainer oil seal and if worn ease out the old oil seal. Fit a new seal using a suitable diameter drift. 15 Fit a new gasket to the clutch bellhousing and replace the
input shaft bearing retainer. (photo) 16 Replace the four bolts and spring washers. Tighten to a torque wrench setting of 7.2-11.6 Ib f ft (1.0-1.6 kg f m). 17 Refit the clutch release arm and bearing carrier and secure
with the two spring clips. (photo) 18 The gearbox is now ready for refitting to the car. Do not forget to refill the gearbox with the recommended grade of oil.
shaft into position. (photo) 5
Follow
the mainshaft
with
the countershaft.
Do not forget
the ball race outer track ball bearing. (photo)
14 Extension housing oil seal (manual gearbox) - removal and
6 Fit the ball bearing to the hole in the central web. 7 Smear a little sealer onto the mating face of the main gearbox casing with the exception of an area of 0.5 in (13 mm) around the reverse light switch. 8 Carefully fit the two halves of the main casing and refit the securing bolts and spring washers. Tighten in a progressive and diagonal manner to a final torque wrench setting of 10.9-14.5 Ib f ft (1.50-2.00 kg f m). 9 Fit a new gasket to the extension housing mating face and
replacement
carefully
lower
into
position.
Tighten
the securing
bolts
to a
torque wrench setting of 22-23 Ib f ft (3.0-4.5 kg f m). (photo) 10 Refit
the
speedometer
driven
assembly
to
the
extension
1 This oil seal may be removed with the gearbox either in or out of the car. 2 Refer to Chapter 7, and remove the propeller shaft. 3 Wipe the area around the rear of the extension housing and with a screwdriver or small chisel carefully dismantle the old oil seal taking care not to damage the extension housing casting. To give better access the dust shield may be tapped off the end of the extension housing. 4 The new oil seal may be fitted, lip facing inwards using a suitable diameter tubular drift.
Fig. 6.13. Reverse idler gear assembly and checking endfloat
(Sec. 13)
: A MMMM SST —
RT
RT
Fig. 6.12. Measurement points for thrust clearances (Sec. 13)
Fig. 6.14. Washer and cone location between clutch housing and
main casing (Sec. 13)
94
Chapter 6/Manual gearbox and automatic transmission
—_.
4
4
ce
13.17 Refitting clutch release arm
13.15 Replacing input shaft bearing retainer
15 Fault diagnosis - manual gearbox Symptom
Reason/s
Remedy
Weak or ineffective synchromesh
Synchronising cones worn, split or damaged
Dismantle and overhaul gearbox. Fit new gear wheels and synchronising cones. Dismantle and overhaul gearbox. Fit new synchromesh unit.
Synchromesh
Jumps out of gear
dogs worn, or damaged
Broken gearchange fork rod spring Gearbox coupling dogs badly worn Selector fork rod groove badly worn
Excessive noise
Dismantle and replace spring. Dismantle gearbox. Fit new coupling dogs. Fit new selector fork rod.
Incorrect grade of oil in gearbox or oil level
Drain, refill, or top up gearbox with correct
too low
grade of oil.
Bush or needle roller bearings worn damaged Gearteeth excessively worn or damaged Laygear thrust washers cessive end play Excessive difficulty in engaging gear
worn
allowing
Clutch pedal adjustment incorrect
or
ex-
Dismantle and overhaul gearbox. Dismantle and overhaul gearbox. Renew gear wheels. Dismantle and overhaul gearbox. Renew thrust washers. Adjust clutch pedal correctly.
16 Automatic transmission - general description The Toyoglide automatic transmission takes the place of the clutch and manual gearbox, which are, of course, mounted behind the engine. The system comprises two main components:
1
A
three
element
hydrokinetic
capable of torque multiplication between 2.4: 1 and1: 1.
torque
converter
at an infinitely
coupling,
variable
ratio
2 A torque/speed responsive and hydraulically operated epicyclic gearbox comprising a pianetary gearset providing three forward ratios and one reverse ratio. Due to the complexity of the automatic transmission unit, if performance is not up to standard, or overhaul is necessary, it is imperative that this be left to the local Toyota main dealers who will have the special equipment for fault diagnosis and rectification.
The
content
of the following Sections is therefore confined
to supplying general information and any service and instruction that can be used by the owner.
information
993
Fig. 6.15. The automatic transmission unit
y
Chapter 6/Manual gearbox and automatic transmission
1 Open the engine compartment lid and place an old blanket over the wings to prevent accidental scratching of the paintwork. 2 For safety reasons, disconnect the battery. Raise the car and
17 Automatic transmission - fluid level check and refilling 1
With the engine at its normal
selector
operating temperature
move
the
place on axle stands if a ramp is not available. The higher the car
lever through all positions from ‘P’ to ‘L’ and stop in the
is off the ground the easier it will be to work underneath. 3 Undo and remove the transmission drain plug and drain the fluid into a suitable sized container. When all the fluid has drained out replace the drain plug. If the car has just been run,
‘N’ position.
2
With
the engine running
wipe clean and replace. necessary top-up with the 3 If the unit has been new fluid is used to refill reaches the ‘HIGH’ mark fluid required will depend after draining.
at idle speed remove
the dipstick,
Quickly withdraw it again and if recommended type of fluid. drained, it is recommended that only it. Gradually fill the unit until the fluid on the dipstick. The exact amount of on how much was left in the converter
take extreme care because the oil will be very hot. 4 Refer to Chapter 2, and drain the cooling system. Slacken the radiator top hose clips and remove the top hose.
5
refitted in their original positions. Undo and remove securing nuts and bolts and separate the two flanges.
mud.
18 Automatic transmission
Any
suspected before
the
must
be
is removed,
referred as with
to
a Toyota
this type
separate the joint. Tie the exhaust pipe back, out of the way. 9 Undo and remove the twin exhaust pipe clamp securing bolt and separate the clamp halves.
main
of trans-
mission the fault diagnosis must be confirmed, using specialist equipment whilst the car is on the road and the transmission unit in use.
10 Undo and remove the nuts and downpipe to the exhaust manifold.
bolts securing
Turbine yf runner
One-way clutch
=|
Engine| +}2a =
_ Spline Spline for input shaft. Fig. 6.17. Principle of torque converter operation
Fig. 6.16. Torque converter components
Intermediate shaft Front Front clutch brake band
Center Support
| One-way clutch
Rear brake band Vy, ens:
pinion
Output shaft
~~ Front. multiple clutch
Rear multiple clutch
the four
7 Draw the propeller shaft rearwards from the rear of the gearbox and withdraw the propeller shaft from under the car. 8 Soak the silencer and exhaust pipe flange securing bolts in penetrating oil. Undo and remove the two nuts and bolts and
unit - removal and replacement
faults unit
Working under the bonnet disconnect and remove the engine
torque rod and support. 6 Now under the car mark the relative positions of the propeller shaft and pinion companion flanges so that they may be
4 To ensure adequate cooling the exterior of the converter housing and gearbox should always be kept clean of dust or
dealer
95
Rear clutch drum
/ Second sun gear
First
Planetary
an
reverse drum
Fig. 6.18. Automatic transmission planetary gear unit
carrier
Long
pinion
the exhaust
Chapter 6/Manual gearbox and automatic transmission
96 a
11 Lift away the front half of the exhaust system. 12 Refer to Chapter 3, and remove the air cleaner. 13 It is now necessary to remove the exhaust manifold
to gain
8
Move the selector lever to the ‘P’ position.
9
Move the parking lock shaft to the locked position.
10 Tighten the parking lock rod swivel locknuts.
better access to the starter motor. Undo and remove the securing bolts, nuts and washers. Lift away the exhaust manifold. It will be necessary to disconnect end of the manifold.
the small
pipe located
at the front
14 Make a note of the electrical connections at the rear of the starter motor solenoid and then disconnect the cables. 15 Undo and remove the bolts securing the starter motor to the engine backplate.
Draw the starter motor forwards and lift away
from the side of the engine. 16 Undo and remove the screws securing the engine under cover. Lift away the under cover.
17 Undo and remove the bolts securing the torque under cover. Lift away the under cover.
converter
18 the the 19
Wipe the area around the oil cooler outlet and inlet tubes on side of the transmission unit. Disconnect the pipe and tape ends to stop dirt ingress and fluid leakage. Remove the transmission oil filler tube. 20 Disconnect the speedometer drive cable from the transmission unit.
21 Disconnect
the
throttle
connecting
rod
from
valve lever. 22 Remove the clevis pin on the parking brake detach the pull rod from the intermediate lever.
the
throttle
pull rod and
23 Disconnect the shift rod or control rod from the transmission unit.
24 Remove
the
return spring from the intermediate
lever and
20 Safety ment
and
reverse
switch
(automatic transmission)
- adjust-
1 Refer to Section 22, and remove the selector lever assembly. 2 Slacken the switch securing bolt and reposition the switch so that the switch arm is just contacting the selector lever when the lever is in the ‘D’ position. 3 Retighten the securing bolt. Using a test light and battery check that the switch is operating correctly. If a negative result is obtained obtain and fit a new switch. 4 Refit the selector lever assembly.
21 Throttle adjustment
link
connecting
rod
-
(automatic
transmission)
1 Working under the car and with the help of an assistant check that when the carburettor throttle valve is fully open the indicator on the throttle valve lever is aligned with the mark
on rod 2 3 4
the transmission. If it is not the length of the connecting it must be reset. Slacken the locknuts on each end of the turnbuckle. Disconnect the second connecting rod from the carburettor. Adjust the length if the connecting rod with the turnbuckle
so that the throttle link connecting rod end aligns with the attachment on the carburettor when the throttle valve lever indicator aligns with the mark on the case with the carburettor
detach the lever from the support bracket. 25 Remove the handbrake cable from the crossmember. 26 Support the weight of the engine with one jack and the transmission unit with a second jack. 27 Undo and remove the crossmember to engine rear mounting insulator securing bolts. 28 Remove the crossmember to body securing bolts and lift
aligns
away the crossmember.
burettor throttle valve is in the fully open
throttle valve fully open. 5 Lock the turnbuckle and reconnect the second connecting rod to the carburettor. Check that the throttle valve lever still with
the
mark
on
the
transmission
case
when
the car-
position.
29 Detach the engine mounting stabiliser. 30 Working through the starter motor aperture undo and remove the six torque converter securing bolts. It will be necessary to rotate the crankshaft to gain access to all the bolts. 31 Lower the transmission and engine support jacks until the top of the transmission unit will clear the underside of the body.
32 Undo and remove the bolts securing the transmission unit to the engine. 33 Check that all controls, cables etc. are clear of the unit and then
carefully
draw
it rearwards.
An assistant will be necessary
because the unit is heavy. Lower the unit to the ground and draw it away from the underside of the car. Oil will flow from the converter so be prepared to mop it up. Place blocks so that the selector lever is not damaged.
on
wooden
34 Refitting the automatic transmission unit is the reverse sequence to removal. It will be necessary to check the various control adjustments as described later in this Chapter. 35 Refill the transmission unit with the recommended grade of
fluid before starting the engine and check cribed in Section 17.
the oil level as des-
22 Floor shift replacement
lever
(automatic
transmission)
= Chock the rear wheels, jack-up support on firmly based stands.
the
front
-
of
removal
and
the
and
car
2 Slacken and remove the connecting rod swivel nut. Disconnect the shift lever and control rod. 3 Undo and remove the Allen screw securing the shift lever knob cover. Remove the shift lever knob sleeve. 4 Disconnect the battery for safety reasons, and then undo and remove the console securing screws. Make a note of the electrical cable connections and disconnect. 5 The console may now be lifted away. 6 Undo and remove the bolts securing the shift lever assembly to the floor panel. 7 The shift lever assembly may now be lifted away from the floor panel.
8
Refitting the floor shift lever assembly is the reverse sequence
to removal. The following additional points should be noted:
a)
19 Floor shift lever (automatic transmission) - adjustment 1
Working
under
the
car
check
all linkage
rod
bushes
and
attachments for signs of wear and renew any parts as necessary. It is useless to try to adjust the shift lever with a worn linkage.
2 3
Slacken the connecting rod swivel locknut. Move the manual valve lever on the side of the transmission
to the ‘N’ position. 4 Move the selector lever to the ‘N’ position
5 Tighten the connecting rod swivel locknut. 6 The parking lock rod must now be reset. Slacken the parking lock swivel locknuts. 7 Check all attachments and bushes for wear and renew any Parts as necessary.